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The ideal travel companion, full of insider advice on what to see and do, plus detailed itineraries and

comprehensive maps for exploring this culturally vibrant and diverse country.

Savour superb views of the Taj Mahal, learn all about South Indian culture in Chennai or explore Hindu and

Buddhist cave temples on Elephanta Island: everything you need to know is clearly laid out within colour-

coded chapters. Discover the best of India with this indispensable travel guide.


Inside DK Eyewitness Travel Guide India:

- Over 50 colour maps help you navigate with ease
- Simple layout makes it easy to find the information you need
- Comprehensive tours and itineraries of India, designed for every interest and budget
- Illustrations and floorplans show the inside of icons such as the Amber Fort in Rajasthan, the National

Museum in Delhi, the Victoria Memorial in Kolkata and more
- Colour photographs of India's bustling cities, historic buildings, elaborate temples, beautiful beaches,

mountainous interior, lush tea plantations and more
- Historical and cultural context gives you a richer travel experience: learn about the country's fascinating history and culture, colourful festivals, remarkable architecture, and traditional music, dance and fashion
- Detailed chapters, with area maps, cover Delhi; Haryana and Punjab; Himachal Pradesh; Ladakh, Jammu and Kashmir; Uttar Pradesh and Uttarakhand; Bihar and Jharkhand; Madhya Pradesh and Chhattisgarh; Kolkata (Calcutta); West Bengal and Sikkim; Odisha; Assam; Rajasthan; Gujarat; Mumbai (Bombay); Maharashtra; Goa; Karnataka; Chennai (Madras); Tamil Nadu; Andaman Islands; Kerala; Andhra Pradesh and Telangana
- Essential travel tips: our expert choices of where to stay, eat, shop and sightsee, plus visa and health

information

DK Eyewitness Travel Guide India is a detailed, easy-to-use guide designed to help you get the most from

your visit to India.

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Published by Read My eBook for FREE!, 2020-02-19 22:45:51

(DK Eyewitness) Travel Guide - India

The ideal travel companion, full of insider advice on what to see and do, plus detailed itineraries and

comprehensive maps for exploring this culturally vibrant and diverse country.

Savour superb views of the Taj Mahal, learn all about South Indian culture in Chennai or explore Hindu and

Buddhist cave temples on Elephanta Island: everything you need to know is clearly laid out within colour-

coded chapters. Discover the best of India with this indispensable travel guide.


Inside DK Eyewitness Travel Guide India:

- Over 50 colour maps help you navigate with ease
- Simple layout makes it easy to find the information you need
- Comprehensive tours and itineraries of India, designed for every interest and budget
- Illustrations and floorplans show the inside of icons such as the Amber Fort in Rajasthan, the National

Museum in Delhi, the Victoria Memorial in Kolkata and more
- Colour photographs of India's bustling cities, historic buildings, elaborate temples, beautiful beaches,

mountainous interior, lush tea plantations and more
- Historical and cultural context gives you a richer travel experience: learn about the country's fascinating history and culture, colourful festivals, remarkable architecture, and traditional music, dance and fashion
- Detailed chapters, with area maps, cover Delhi; Haryana and Punjab; Himachal Pradesh; Ladakh, Jammu and Kashmir; Uttar Pradesh and Uttarakhand; Bihar and Jharkhand; Madhya Pradesh and Chhattisgarh; Kolkata (Calcutta); West Bengal and Sikkim; Odisha; Assam; Rajasthan; Gujarat; Mumbai (Bombay); Maharashtra; Goa; Karnataka; Chennai (Madras); Tamil Nadu; Andaman Islands; Kerala; Andhra Pradesh and Telangana
- Essential travel tips: our expert choices of where to stay, eat, shop and sightsee, plus visa and health

information

DK Eyewitness Travel Guide India is a detailed, easy-to-use guide designed to help you get the most from

your visit to India.

TR A VEL INFORM A TION  749


duty, including foreign In Mumbai, the international DIRECTORY
currency notes in excess or terminal at Chhatrapati Shivaji
equivalent of US$5,000. is 4 km (2 miles) from the Airline Offices
domestic terminal. Kolkata’s Air France
Netaji Subhash Chandra Tel (011) 2346 6213, 7, Scindia
Getting from the Airport
Bose International Airport House, Connaught Place, Delhi.
Coaches connect the airport has both the international
with the city for a fee. Pre-paid and domestic terminals in Air India
Tel (011) 2462 4075, Delhi.
taxis with fixed rates can be the same building. In Tel (022) 2202 3031, Mumbai.
booked from counters both Thiruvananthapuram, both Tel (033) 2211 0730, Kolkata.
inside and outside the arrivals domestic and international Tel (044) 2345 3375, Chennai.
area. Metered auto-rickshaws flights operate from the ∑ airindia.in
are also available. Make sure same building. British Airways
you agree on the fare before Tel (09235) 149 771, Gurugram.
taking one, and ask an airport Tel (022) 2282 0888, Mumbai.
policeman to note down its Check-In ∑ britishairways.com
licence plate number. Radio For international flights, Cathay Pacific
taxis have a separate counter check-in is usually three Tel 1800 209 1616, Delhi.
and provide cabs that run on hours ahead of departure. Tel (022) 2682 9196, Mumbai.
meter with a fixed charge. If Tele-check-in and web check- Tel 1800 209 1616, Chennai.
you have booked accommo- in are allowed by some airlines ∑ cathaypacific.com
dation, check if your hotel for business and first-class Indigo Airlines
offers a free pick-up service. passengers. Most domestic Tel (012) 4661 3838, Gurugram.
airlines allow ∑ goindigo.in
an economy- KLM Royal Dutch Airlines
Airport class passenger Tel (0124) 272 3030, Delhi.
Transfers 15 kg (33 lb) in ∑ klm.com
Visitors who Yellow licence the hold and Lufthansa
are travelling plate of a taxi one item of hand Tel (011) 2565 2064, Delhi.
onwards to other baggage. Make sure Tel (022) 2682 8316, Mumbai.
Indian cities will need to that your luggage is within Tel 1800 102 5838, Chennai.
transfer to domestic terminals. the weight limit set by Tel 1800 102 5838, Bengaluru.
∑ lufthansa.com
Be sure to allow enough time your airline.
to get between the two Thai Airways
terminals. At all major aiports Tel (011) 2565 2796, Delhi.
there is a free transit service User Development Fee Tel (033) 2283 8865, Kolkata.
Tel (022) 6637 3777, Mumbai.
from one terminal to the An additional charge known Tel (044) 4217 3311, Chennai.
other. Delhi’s Indira Gandhi as user development fee is ∑ thaiairways.com
(IG) International Airport has factored into the cost of the
two terminals: Terminal 1 air ticket. This amount varies Virgin Atlantic
Tel 1800 102 3000.
for domestic flights and from airport to airport and Tel (012) 4469 3030, Gurugram.
Terminal 3 for both domestic could go up to ₹1500 (US$22) ∑ virgin-atlantic.com
and international flights. for international flyers.
Airport Information Distance to City Centre Average Journey Time
Delhi: IG International
(Terminal 3) (0124) 337 6000 20 km (12 miles) Road: 45–60 minutes
Mumbai: Chhatrapati Shivaji
International Airport (022) 6685 1010 30 km (19 miles) Road: 50 minutes
Kolkata: Netaji Subhash
Chandra Bose International (033) 2511 8036 20 km (12 miles) Road: 30–60 minutes
Chennai: Chennai (044) 2256 0551 16 km (10 miles) Road: 30 minutes
International Airport
Thiruvananthapuram: (0471) 270 2600 6 km (4 miles) Road: 20 minutes
International Airport
Bengaluru: Kempegowda (080) 6678 4444 40 km (25 miles) Road: 45–60 minutes
International Airport
Goa: Dabolim (0832) 540 796 29 km (18 miles) Road: 50 minutes
International Airport
Kochi: Kochi Road: 45–60 minutes
International Airport (0484) 261 0115 30 km (19 miles)




748-749_EW_India.indd 749 26/04/17 11:50 am

750  SUR VIV AL GUIDE

Domestic Air Travel Domestic Airlines
The national carrier Air
Although more expensive than travelling by train, air India offers the largest
travel in India is the most comfortable and convenient number of routes and the
mode of travel, especially considering the huge distances most frequent connections
between the major cities. There are as many as 81 domestic across the country. Three
major private airlines – Jet
airports in India, many of which offer good services in Airways, Indigo and SpiceJet
terms of both technology and customer facilities. The main Airlines – also connect a
cities of Chennai, Delhi, Kolkata and Mumbai are very well number of cities. Indigo offers
connected to all domestic airports within the country. The domestic flights to almost
national carrier, the government-run Air India, offers the all sectors in India. A few
regional airlines, such as
widest choice of routes and the most frequent services. If Air Costa, Air Pegasus and
you have booked internal flights before leaving for India, Zav Airways, with limited
it is highly recommended to reconfirm on arrival. Flight operations within India, fly
cancellations and delays due to bad weather conditions in short feeder routes. Baggage
the deep of winter (Dec–Jan) are common, so remember to allowance is 15 kg (33 lb)
reconfirm not just your ticket but the flight timing as well. for business class and 20 kg
(44 lb) for economy class.




Principal Domestic Air Routes
Srinagar Leh
Jammu
Kangra
0 kilometres 600
Amritsar
Chandigarh 0 miles 300
Dehra Dun
DELHI Dibrugarh
Tezpur
Jaipur Agra Lucknow Bagdogra Jorhat
Jodhpur Guwahati Dimapur
Gwalior Patna Silchar Imphal
Udaipur Varanasi Agartala
Khajuraho
Bhuj Aizawl
Ahmedabad Indore Ranchi
Rajkot Bhopal Jabalpur
Jamnagar KOLKATA
Vadodara
Bhavnagar
Nagpur Raipur
Aurangabad Bhubaneswar
MUMBAI
Pune
Visakhapatnam
Hyderabad
Bay of
Dabolim Bengal
Arabian
Sea Puttaparthi
Tirupati
Mangalore
Bengaluru CHENNAI
Port Blair
Kozhikode
Agatti
Coimbatore Tiruchirapalli
Kochi Madurai
Thiruvananthapuram




750-751_EW_India.indd 750 26/04/17 11:56 am

TR A VEL INFORM A TION  751

Domestic Airports are more stringent and can DIRECTORY
Airports at the four main require up to an extra half hour.
cities – Delhi, Mumbai, Kolkata Take any inordinate delays into Domestic Airlines
and Chennai – and cities account, make sure all bags are Airport Enquiries
such as Agra, Bhubaneswar, tagged, and do not carry batte- Tel (0124) 337 6000, Delhi.
Kochi, Hyderabad, and ries, lighters or any sharp objects, Tel (022) 6685 1010, Mumbai.
Bengaluru have modern not even scissors, nail files or Tel (033) 2511 8036, Kolkata.
terminal buildings with up- tweezers. As part of the security Tel (044) 2256 0551, Chennai.
to-date facilities. However, measures on some routes, you
smaller towns, such as Dehra may be asked to identify your Air India
Dun, have tiny airports with baggage on the tarmac, before Tel (011) 2462 4075, Delhi.
fewer facilities. boarding the flight. Tel (022) 2202 3031, Mumbai.
Tel (033) 2211 0730, Kolkata.
Tel (044) 2345 3375, Chennai.
Getting to and from Reservations
the Airport Air Vistara
All domestic airlines have their Tel (0120) 669 9901.
The distance from airports own booking offices in the city, Tel 0928 922 8888.
to city centres varies, so it is as well as a reser vation counter ∑ airvistara.com
useful to check the travel time at the airport (usually only in Indigo
beforehand. Also always allow larger towns and cities). Tickets Tel (124) 661 3838, Gurugram.
time for unforeseen delays en can also be booked through Tel 0991 038 3838.
route. Airport coaches run travel agents (see p735). ∑ goindigo.in
regularly for a fee. Pre-paid However, the easiest way to
taxis with fixed rates can book tickets is online at travel Jet Airways
usually be booked from websites such as www. Tel (011) 3989 3333, Delhi.
counters both inside and makemytrip.com and Tel (022) 3989 3333, Mumbai.
outside the arrivals area. www.yatra.com. All Tel (033) 3989 3333, Kolkata.
Metered auto-rickshaws airlines have Tel (044) 3989 3333,Chennai.
are also available. Make computerized booking ∑ jetairways.com
sure the meter is working, and flight information SpiceJet Airlines
or agree on a fixed facilities all over the Tel (0965) 400 3333, Domestic.
amount before taking The Maharaja, country, even in smaller Tel (987) 180 333, International.
one. If you are booking mascot of towns. Tickets can be
accommo dation, check if Air India paid for in US dollars or
your hotel offers a free sterling, as well as in to cancel, you may lose the full
pick-up service. Radio taxis rupees. Payment can also be value of the ticket. If flights are
are also available at several made by credit card. There are cancelled or delayed, you can
major airports. special fares for infants and claim seats in alternate flights.
children. Indian nationals aged
63 and above get a 50 per cent
Check-In senior citizens discount, subject Travel Packages
For most domestic flights, to identity and age proof. All Air India offers two travel
the check-in time is normally ticket cancella tions must be packages if the payment is in
45 minutes to an hour before done at least four hours before US dollars. Scheme 1 for 30 days
departure. If you are travelling your flight. Cancellation on a is about US$650–900 and allows
to politically sen sitive places refundable ticket varies from unlimited travel with certain
such as Kashmir, Jammu, Leh airline to airline, and only taxes route restrictions. Scheme 2 is
and some of the northeastern are refunded on a non- about US$500 for 15 days of
states, note that security checks refundable ticket. If you fail travel in one region. This package
does not include the Andaman
Islands. Private airlines, such as
Jet Airways, Indigo and SpiceJet,
also offer special packages for
foreign nationals. The “Visit India”
offer by Jet Airways ranges from
US$550–800 for economy-class
travel over a period of 15–20
days. Airlines have started
offering discounts on tickets, and
value add-ons such as free stays
and gourmet dining to beat the
competition. It is therefore worth
doing a little research before
Aircraft lined up at Indira Gandhi International Airport purchasing your ticket.




750-751_EW_India.indd 751 26/04/17 11:56 am

752  SUR VIV AL GUIDE

Travelling by Train Food items, such as biscuits, and
reading material, are sold by
For most visitors, train journeys add a fascinating new vendors en route. Toilets are
dimension to their experience of India – there are few better of the Indian and Western-
ways of getting to know the people and see the countryside. style. Carry your own toilet
The Indian Railways network is the third largest in the world, paper, soap and towel.
Train times are subject to
with tracks running over 115,000 km (75,000 miles) and change. The printed timetable
connecting over 8,000 stations. Over 14,000 trains run daily, is available in most station
transporting an average of 24 million people. Trains are bookshops, or check the
always crowded, so try to book your tickets in advance. very useful official websites:
There are computerized ticket counters at railway stations, www.indianrail.gov.in and
www.irctc.co.in
and most travel agents can also get tickets for you.
Train Tickets, Fares
The Railway Network the large cities such as and Reservations
The Indian rail network, Mumbai, Kolkata, Chennai, It is important to make train
established in 1853, runs the Thiruvananthapuram and bookings well in advance
length and breadth of the others. The superfast inter-city for a confirmed reservation.
country. The network is divided train, the Shatabdi Express, Railway stations now have
by region, and there are 16 connects main cities with many computerized ticket counters,
zonal divisions. Delhi is served well-known tourist destinations, otherwise the hotel travel
by Northern Railways, Mumbai with connections such as counter or a travel agent can
by both Central and Western Chennai–Bengaluru, Delhi– arrange reservations for a fee.
Railways, Kolkata by Eastern Dehradun and Delhi–Agra. The Never buy tickets from touts, as
Railways and Chennai by Konkan Railway (see p441), on this is both illegal and unreliable.
Southern Railways. All four cities the western coast, offers speedy Tickets can be booked up to
have either two or three main connections to Maharashtra, four months in advance, and
train stations, so it is important Goa, Karnataka and Kerala. reservation fees are nominal.
to confirm from which station Each train is known by its You will be asked for your age
your train is leaving. Indian name and number. When and gender, and these details
Railways employ over 1.6 million consulting the information will appear on your ticket, along
people, making them one of the board, do check both, since with the coach and seat
world’s largest single employers. there may be more than one number. Once you are at the
“Shatabdi” for example. Trains station, find your coach and
have first- and second- class look for your name and seat
Trains and Timetables
chair-cars, and two- and three- number, which are usually
Of the three kinds of trains tiered sleeper coaches. If these posted on a list outside the
(passenger, express and mail), are air conditioned, the fares coach. If on a waiting list, arrive
it is best to take the air- increase. Sleeper coaches have at the station early to take
conditioned express trains, as berths that fold back during advantage of any last-minute
they have fewer stops and offer the daytime to provide seating. cancellations. The station-
better facilities and services. Fares for express trains such master will help.
They provide fast and punctual as the Shatabdi or Rajdhani If reserved tickets are
connections to some of include meals and mineral unavailable, you can get an
India’s most important cities. water, and the Rajdhani RAC (Reservation Against
The Rajdhani Express links the also provides its overnight Cancellation) ticket. This allows
capital, Delhi, to most of passengers with bedding. you to board the train and
find seating space. You may
eventually be given a berth, but
there is no guar antee. Reserved
tickets can be cancelled, for a
fee. If cancellation is more than
a day in advance, a nominal fee
is charged; up to 4 hours before
train departure, the charge is
25 per cent of the fare, and
less than that, you forfeit
50 per cent of the fare.
Stations at Delhi, Mumbai,
Kolkata and Chennai as well
as other major cities have
Churchgate Station, Mumbai, during rush hour special booking counters for




752-753_EW_India.indd 752 26/04/17 11:50 am
Eyewitness Travel LAYERS PRINTED:
Practical template “UK” LAYER
(Source v1.7)
Date 5th March 2013
Size 125mm x 217mm

TR A VEL INFORM A TION  753


foreigners, called “Tourist buying individual tickets. Note DIRECTORY
Bureaus”, within the main that even with a pass, you will
booking offices. These provide still need to reserve your seat. Railway Enquiries
information regarding ∑ indianrail.gov.in
reservations, itinerary and ∑ irctc.co.in
other inquiries. Payments Services
may be made in US dollars or At the station, look for the Chennai
pounds sterling, or the rupee licensed porters, who wear Tel (044) 139.
equivalent, and you must show a red shirt and an armband Delhi
your passport. You receive with a metal tag bearing a Tel (011) 139.
priority reservation and are licence number on it. Porters
exempted from reservation fees. are always well-informed Kolkata
At New Delhi Railway Station, about delays and platform Tel (033) 139.
the International Tourist Bureau changes, which may not be Mumbai
is located on the first floor of announced on the board. Tel (022) 139.
the main hall. Note your porter’s number
because you could lose Booking Centres for
sight of him in the Special Trains
Indrail Pass crowds. His tariff varies
To travel extensively according to weight, Darjeeling
around India, the Indrail although ₹40–50 per Himalayan Railway
Pass is a convenient item is acceptable. Indian West Bengal Tourist Centre,
option. It offers unlimited stations are crowded and Baba Kharak Singh Marg, Delhi.
travel across the country, con fusing. Keep your cool Tel (0987) 457 4766.
and is available for and keep an eye out for Fairy Queen
second or first class pickpockets, who take National Rail Museum, Delhi.
and for different periods advantage of the chaos. Tel (011) 2688 0939.
(half-day, 2 days, 4 days Railway waiting rooms Kalka–Shimla Railways
and anywhere between (especially first-class ones) Divisional Railway, Ambala.
7 and 90 days). It can are good places to
be bought in India or Official porter in spend the night, if Nilgiri Mountain Railway
abroad, but must be his red jacket you are stranded. You Chennai Central Railway,
paid for in US dollars or need a valid ticket Chennai. Tel (044) 2535 3816.
pound sterling. Indrail Passes or Indrail Pass to use this Palace On Wheels
are available from sales agents facility. There are also waiting 151, Rajindra Bhawan, Rajendra
abroad. They are also available rooms only for women Place, Delhi. Tel (011) 4686 8686.
at tourist counters and Tourist travellers. Left-luggage ∑ palaceonwheels.net
Bureaus at major railway facilities, called cloakrooms,
stations, and from travel agents are offered at most stations. Royal Rajasthan on Wheels
in Delhi, Mumbai, Kolkata and Station canteens are Tel (011) 2338 3837.
Chennai. Unless you do a lot of reasonably clean and provide ∑ rtdc.in ∑ royalrajasthanon
travelling, the pass may work mineral water and hygenically wheels.co.in
out more expensive than packed meals.

Special Trains
You can travel in style on board some of India’s luxury trains, particularly the Palace on Wheels
and the Royal Rajasthan on Wheels. Both operate week-long tours from September to April.
The former covers mainly Rajasthan, and includes Jaipur, Udaipur, Jaisalmer and Agra. The latter
goes through Rajasthan to Ahmedabad in Gujarat. The Fairy Queen, a 150-year-old restored
steam engine, is the oldest in the world, featuring in
the Guinness World Records. It runs from Delhi to Alwar
between October and February. India’s quaint “toy
trains”, connecting numerous hill stations with tracks
laid across precariously steep slopes, include the World
Heritage Darjeeling Himalayan Railway (see p298),
which goes from New Jalpaiguri to Darjeeling. The
Kangra Valley Railway connects Pathankot and
Jogindernagar (see p125). The luxurious Nilgiri
Mountain Railway, built in 1898, offers spectacular
views of the Nilgiri Hills, up to Ooty (see p609), and
Kalka–Shimla Railways runs trips on three deluxe
rail motor cars. Royal service in the Palace on Wheels





752-753_EW_India.indd 753 26/04/17 11:50 am

754  SUR VIV AL GUIDE

Travel by Road Hiring a Chauffeur-
Driven Car
India has an extensive network of major and minor roads, Indian road and traffic
as well as a number of well-maintained national highways, conditions can be a trial
linking all the major cities. Driving is on the left, with right- for anyone unused to these
hand-drive cars. Indian traffic, particularly in the cities, conditions. Hiring a driver is
by far the safest option, and
is very chaotic, so visitors are strongly advised to hire a not all that expensive. All taxis
driver along with a car, rather than trying to negotiate the as well as agency-hired cars are
roads themselves. A number of international car-rental distinguished by their yellow
companies, hotels and taxi stands provide excellent car- number plates with black
rental services. In case of breakdowns, the remarkably lettering. Most taxi stands also
have private cars for hire; these
ingenious roadside mechanics can solve most problems.
are usually white with yellow
number plates. All car rental
companies with “All India
Driving Licences Car Rentals Tourist Permits” have licences
It is necessary to have an Several reputed car-rental for interstate travel.
international driving licence companies – such as Avis All drivers are familiar with
to drive in India. If you don’t and Autoriders International Indian traffic rules, but insist
have one, the Automobile Limited – operate in India. They on getting a driver who knows
Association of India (AAI) has offer both chauffeur-driven and the area that you plan to visit.
several branches across the self-driven cars, which can be Also, do test both the driver
country that will issue a tempo- hired at travel desks in larger and the car before embarking
rary licence, provided you have hotels, tourist offices, travel on a long journey.
a passport and an ordinary agencies or directly from the Chauffeur-driven cars for
driving licence. This may take companies themselves. Most long-distance travel usually
a day or two. You must be over of them operate through charge per kilometre, with
25 years old, and there is a collaborations with local a minimum of 250 km
refundable insurance deposit companies. Avis is in partnership (155 miles) per day, plus
of ₹10,000. Note that you may with the Oberoi Group. additional charges per extra
be asked to take a driving test. Autoriders International Limited, kilometre and an allowance
a reliable Indian company, was for the driver. If you are
earlier a partner of Hertz. Local travelling only one way,
Roads hire services and private taxis additional charges will be
India has a network of over are also available in cities from levied for the return journey
4,689,842 km (2,914,133 miles) taxi stands and agencies. These on the assumption that the
of roads. The primary arterial can usually be arranged by your car will return empty. Costs
roads, the national highways, hotel or through a reliable local are also dependent on the
cover over 92,851 km (57,695 travel agent (see p735). car model and the region
miles) and carry 45 per cent of International cab aggregator of hire, with air-conditioned
the country’s total traffic. State Uber has also started operations cars being the most expensive.
highways run a total length of in India in a number of cities For travelling outside the
over 163,898 km (101,842 miles). and is giving tough competition state or city boundaries, extra
The National Highway Authority to Ola Cabs, a start-up born in charges as well as interstate
of India is in the process of Bengaluru. Both run on mobile taxes are added. If the driver
improving links between the applications and have become has to stay overnight, you
country’s four major cities: Delhi, huge successes owing to will have to pay for his board
Mumbai, Chennai and Kolkata. quick, reasonable and point- and lodging, so it is best to
The countryside is crisscrossed to-point services. negotiate a flat rate in advance.
with numerous major and minor Car hire is more expensive in
roads of very variable quality. hill regions.
Some village roads are little In certain areas, shared taxis
more than dirt tracks riddled are available for long journeys,
with potholes, so be prepared which cuts the cost. Travellers
for a dusty, bumpy ride. who prefer shared rides for
Most highways and major city to city journeys can opt
roads are equipped with tourist for BlaBlaCar (www.blablacar.in),
facilities such as motels and which connects them to car
petrol pumps. Midway refresh- owners. Certain companies
ment points, fast-food joints and require foreign nationals to
dhabas (see p183) are well marked pay in foreign currency,
with hoardings, and provide Fleet of cars by the private rental though most accept payment
clean food as well as toilets. service company, Ola in rupees as well.




754-755_EW_India.indd 754 26/04/17 11:56 am

TR A VEL INFORM A TION  755


heavy fine. Parking attendants
should hand you a parking slip,
with the parking charges printed
on it. Charges are usually
between ₹20 and ₹50.

Green Travel
Ranging from hostels to luxury
hotels, green lodging options
can be found in all budgets.
Earth-friendly transportation
options such as biking, walking
and using public transport are
often cheaper than renting a
A typical petrol station on the side of a Delhi highway cab. Metro systems provide
a fast, clean and eco-friendly
Fuel
happy to help. Google Maps and way of getting around various
Highways and main roads have GPS on phones also offer a great cities. Opt for CNG buses
well-maintained filling stations way to find your destination. that offer city tours. All auto-
(or petrol pumps, as they are rickshaws and yellow-top taxis
called) at regular intervals, Rules of the Road painted with a green line use
usually closer to towns. Many CNG-propelled engines.
pumps in cities as well as on If you plan to drive in India,
highways are open 24 hours, you need to ensure that you DIRECTORY
and carry both leaded and are well accustomed to the
unleaded petrol, as well as diesel, chaotic traffic conditions. Automobile
which is cheaper. Most cars run Though there are established Asso ciation of India
on petrol, though some of the traffic rules, such as lane driving Chennai
newer models also use diesel, as and discreet use of high-beam AA South India, 187 Anna Salai.
do most taxis. Unleaded petrol lights, more often than not Tel (044) 2852 1162.
is not available everywhere, these are not followed. Vehicles ∑ pppindia.com/aasi
especially in remote areas, so drive on the left-hand side of Delhi
ensure that your fuel tank is full the road, but often, you will AA of Upper India, C–8
when visiting these areas. Many find a stray car – or cow, for Qutab Institutional Area.
petrol pumps in the main cities that matter – coming at you Tel (011) 2661 1034. ∑ aaui.org
are now equipped with utility on the wrong side of the road. Kolkata
stores, where mineral water, soft On the highways, beware of AA of Eastern India, CG 147,
drinks, magazines and snacks trucks, which often use muscle Sector 2, Salt Lake.
Tel (033) 2486 5131.
are sold. Often they also have power to force you off the road ∑ uraaei.org
telephone booths and toilets. while overtaking. As a rule, stay
Since 2001, most taxis, auto- clear of buses and trucks. Mumbai
Western India AA, Lalji Narainji
rickshaws and buses in Delhi Few drivers adhere to the rules Memorial Bldg, 76 Veer Nariman
and Mumbai are being run for overtaking, which is meant Rd. Tel (022) 2204 1085.
on CNG (Compressed Natural to be from the right. Many ∑ wiaaindia.com
Gas) in an effort to tackle the vehicles often overtake from
severe air pollution caused by the left, with no prior warning. Car Rentals
vehicular emissions. Avoid night driving on highways Autoriders International
unless absolutely necessary, as Limited
a lot of heavy traffic (especially RJF-16, Jaipur Rd Samalka,
Maps and Road Signs trucks) use them then. Also, never New Delhi. Tel (011) 4545 0000.
The Automobile Association offer lifts to strangers, as this Tel (011) 4545 0000, Mumbai &
of India, the Survey of India could be very dangerous. It Chennai. ∑ autoriders.in
and the State Tourism offices is wise to make liberal use of Avis
provide good maps, brochures your horn. If you are unlucky Tel (0124) 472 4850, 1860 500
and information on all enough to be caught speeding, 0999. ∑ avis.co.in
cities and regions in India. or jumping a red light, a fine is Ola Cabs
However, the placement of payable on the spot. ∑ olacabs.com
road signs is often erratic, In cities, ensure that your car Uber
and at times they are in the is parked only in an authorized ∑ uber.com
regional language rather than parking area, otherwise it may Zoomcar
English. It is fine to stop and be towed away to the nearest Tel (080) 3301 3371.
ask for directions, repeatedly if police station, and released ∑ zoomcar.com
necessary – people are always only on the payment of a




754-755_EW_India.indd 755 26/04/17 11:56 am

756  SUR VIV AL GUIDE

Travelling by Bus, Coach and Ferry

India has an extensive bus and coach network, offering organized by them tend to
excellent connections to most cities as well as to the include a guide, so you are also
remotest parts of the country. Buses refer to the ordinary less likely to be surrounded by
transport corporation-run vehicles, which are cheaper “freelance” guides or touts when
you reach your destination.
and ply interstate or within cities. Coaches are usually
much more comforatble, with air conditioning. These are
often hired out for guided tours and also shuttle between Private Operators and
Package Tours
cities. The advantage of travelling by bus or coach rather
than by train is that you have a wider choice of timings, Private tour operators and
travel agencies also offer a
stops and itineraries. A busy network of passenger ferries wide variety of coach trips for
serves places along India’s east and west coasts, and luxury visitors. These are good value for
cruises link the mainland to the Lakshadweep Islands money, especially if you have
as well as to the Andamans. a tight budget and limited time.
Agencies usually use either
18-seater or 35-seater super
State Transport to find the stand from where deluxe air-conditioned coaches
Corporation-Run Buses your bus will depart. Finally, with pushback seats. Tariffs
The various state transport be prepared for a lot of jostling, depend on the quality of service
departments in India run as passengers tend to push and the itinerary. The ticket price
extensive interstate bus to get the best seats. will often include a guide as well
services. The Interstate Bus as an overnight stay at a hotel
Terminus (ISBT) in Delhi is the State Tourism-Run as part of the package. Most
main point of departure for travel agents have a partnership
Punjab, Haryana, Hima chal Coaches and with luxury coach companies,
Package Tours
Pradesh, Uttar Pradesh and who pick up tourists from
Rajasthan. Buses for Agra leave Some of the best guided designated hotels. Reservations
from Sarai Kale Khan, near tours, both within cities and can be made either through the
Nizamuddin railway station. to neighbouring towns, are hotel’s reception desk or from
Mumbai’s Central Bus Stand offered by the Government of one of their recommended
provides information on the India Tourism Department local agencies.
Maharashtra Road Transport and the various state tourism
Corporation that runs services departments (see p737). The Bus and Coach Tickets
to all major cities within the Government of India Tourist
state, as well as to Goa, Offices in most cities offer the and Fares
Ahmedabad, Vadodara, latest information on schedules, Bus or coach fares are cheaper
Mangaluru, Indore and routes and pick-up points. It than train fares and depend
Hyderabad. Kolkata too is a good idea to buy tickets on the kind of transport you
has an extensive network in advance, though they can opt for. Travel by “ordinary” bus
throughout West Bengal also be bought on the spot. is not advisable for tourists.
and the neighbouring states Coach operators can also Deluxe buses are somewhat
of Bihar, Odisha and Sikkim. customize itineraries keeping better, but, if you are travelling
Guwahati is the main entrance in mind the size of the in summer, the best option is
point for visitors to the group and the destination. the deluxe air-conditioned (a/c)
northeastern states. The Assam Coaches run by the tourism coach. Many deluxe coaches,
State Transport Corporation departments are, by and known as “video coaches” blast
runs buses within the city large, clean, uncrowded and loud music and Hindi movies
and to the neighbouring states. comfortable. Coach tours through the night. If you have
The Paltan Bazaar Bus Stand
provides the best information
on these services.
Computerized advance
bookings can be made on
websites such as www.redbus.in
or at the Government of India
Tourism Offices in the four
metropolitan cities.
Most interstate bus terminals
are chaotic places, so do arrive
early to book tickets. Next,
check at the enquiry counter A luxury coach, run by Rajasthan Tourism




756-757_EW_India.indd 756 26/04/17 11:56 am

TR A VEL INFORM A TION  757


DIRECTORY
Government of India
Tourism Offices
Chennai
154 Anna Salai.
Tel (044) 2846 1459.
[email protected]
Delhi
88 Janpath. Tel (011) 2332 0005.
[email protected]
Passenger ferry near the Gateway of India, Mumbai Kolkata
4 Shakespeare Sarani.
an option, it is better to take and another SCI ship sails to Tel (033) 2282 1475.
a deluxe coach that is not a Port Blair once a month from ∑ [email protected]
“video coach”. If opting for Visakhapatnam. Within the Mumbai
a deluxe or a/c deluxe bus, Andamans, there are four 123 M Karve Rd.
you can book your ticket in passenger-cum-cargo ferries Tel (022) 2203 3144.
advance and you can also for transport from Port Blair ∑ [email protected]
reserve your seat. to the other islands.
The charges for bus Ships also ply between Bus Stations
and coach package Kochi and Lakshadweep. APSRTC
tours often include S.P.O.R.T.S., the Society Tel (040) 3010 2828.
airport transfers, for Promotion of Nature ∑ apsrtconline.in
road taxes, overnight Tourism and Sports, the
stays, guides and Logo of the Rajasthan official tourist agency Chennai
any monument or State Road Transport of the Lakshadweep Metropolitan Transport
museum entry fees Corporation Islands, operates four Corporation Tel (044) 2345 5860.
en route. ships, the MV Coral, MV State Express Bus Stand Parry’s
Circle. State Express Transport
Amindivi, MV Minicoy and the MV Corporation Tel 1800 419 4287
Tipu Sultan, between Kochi and
Ferries and Boats Lakshadweep. The Goa Tourism ∑ tnstc.in.
Ferry connections link some Development Corporation Delhi
of India’s more exotic island (see p737) operates river cruises ISBT, Ring Rd. Tel (011) 2386 8694.
destinations, as well as cities within the state, whereas in Kolkata
along the coasts. They are Kerala, half- or full-day backwater Esplanade Terminus, Calcutta
available from Kolkata to cruises are organized by the State Transport Corporation
Chennai and Mumbai to Goa. Kollam (Quilon) District Tourism Tel (033) 2236 1916.
There is also a catamaran Promotion Council (see p638–9). ∑ cstc.org.in
service between Mumbai and The Kerala Tourism Development North Bengal State Transport
Goa, although it is suspended Corporation in Kochi also Corporation Tel (033) 2243 0736.
during the monsoon season organizes cruises through the ∑ nbstc.in
from July to September. state’s beautiful back waters, on Mumbai
Passenger liners also operate vessels ranging from luxury MTDC, Madame Cama Rd.
from both Chennai and Kolkata houseboats in traditional Tel (022) 2204 4040.
to the Andaman Islands, as well kettuvallams (rice boats) to ∑ maharashtratourism.gov.in
as from Kochi to Lakshadweep. modern 12-seater safari boats. Sarai Kale Khan
Many luxury cruise fares include In Goa and Kerala, travelling Tel (011) 2435 8343.
meals on board, ferrying charges by boat is often quicker than
between the ship and islands, going by car. Ferries connect Ship/Boat Tours
sightseeing, lagoon cruising the mainland to nearby islands,
and land accommodation. such as Ernakulam to Willingdon Shipping Corporation of India
These are very popular, so it is Island. In Lakshadweep and the 245, Madame Cama Road,
advis able to book at least two Andamans, they offer the only Mumbai. Tel (022) 2202 6666.
months in advance. link for people travelling between Shipping Corporation
Five passenger liners, the MV the islands. In the northeastern of India
Nancowry, MV Nicobar, MV Swaraj states, ferry rides on the River Tel (044) 2287 2638, Chennai.
Dweep, MV Harshavardhana and Brahmaputra are available at
MV Akbar, run by the Shipping Guwahati. In Varanasi, boats can Sports
Corporation of India (SCI), be hired at the ghats on the River Lakshadweep Tourism, Indira
operate between Chennai and Ganges. Mumbai has taxi boats Gandhi Rd, Willingdon Island,
Port Blair in the Andaman plying between the Gateway of Kochi. Tel (0484) 266 6789.
Islands, once every ten days, India and Elephanta Island.




756-757_EW_India.indd 757 26/04/17 11:56 am

758  SUR VIV AL GUIDE

Local Transport in Cities rate per kilometre. Night charges
are 25 per cent higher than day
Transport options vary from city to city. Most large cities fares, and payment is extra for
have reliable bus, taxi and auto-rickshaw services. The luggage. Drivers are notorious for
main cities also have suburban trains that provide speedy over-charging passengers. The
connections to areas within city limits. Delhi has a reliable, most common argument is that
the meter is not working. It is
extensive Metro service, and other cities are now building best to negotiate firmly in
their own Metro networks. There is a variety of other advance, and to insist on seeing
transport available, especially in the smaller towns and in the tariff chart. You can also
the old quarters of cities, where it is better to opt for a small, negotiate a flat rate before
light vehicle to cut through narrow congested lanes. Cycle- getting in. Carry some small
coins, as drivers often claim not
rickshaws, auto-rickshaws, vikrams (larger versions of auto- to have change. They are also
rickshaws), tempos and jeeps can be found in most cities. prone to taking you via a long
route, so, if possible, try to find
out the best route to take.
Taxis and Auto-Rickshaws than taxis, but be prepared for
Yellow-topped black taxis operate some hair-raising drives – they
in most cities except Kolkata, love squeezing between buses. Buses
where they are completely In Delhi and Mumbai, the anti- Though city bus networks are
yellow, and Bengaluru, where pollution drive has seen the very extensive, travelling by
they are totally black. These introduction of vehicles run these buses is not a pleasant
metered taxis can be on Compressed Natural experience. Unable to cope with
hailed in the street Gas (CNG). Taxis and the large numbers of commuters,
or hired from local autos that have buses are over crowded, and you
taxi stands. They con verted to will have to battle your way to
are available for CNG usage have even buy your ticket from the
point-to-point a green band conductor. Buses that are full
service or for across the rarely stop at bus stops, which
a fixed rate usual yellow- are usually seen full of waiting
for half a day, An auto-rickshaw, cheap, fast and and-black body. commuters. Drivers are known
which is four sometimes hair-raising All new autos for their reckless driving. Even the
hours or 40 km run on CNG and so-called luxury buses drive at
(25 miles); or a full day, which is are painted yellow and green, break-neck speed. Unless
eight hours or 80 km (50 miles). instead of yellow and black. absolutely necessary, it is best to
The Ambassador once the use some other form of transport.
favourite model, has given way Fares and Meters
to hatchbacks, sedans, multi-
utility vehicle (MUVs) and All autos have meters, though Suburban Trains
and Metro Rails
sports-utility vehicle (SUVs). fares fluctuate according to the
Private cabs (most of which price of fuel. Often, meters are Mumbai has the best suburban
are air conditioned) are usually not updated, and drivers are train network in India, providing
white in colour, and are also required by law to carry a rate efficient and affordable
available at most of the regular (tariff) chart listing both the old connections. However, it is
taxi stands. In some cities, there and current fare, based on the extremely overcrowded, and
are no yellow-topped taxis,
but private taxis can be hired
from agencies or hotels. Radio
cabs have been introduced
in some cities such as Delhi
and Mumbai; these are more
expensive than ordinary cabs,
because they are air conditioned.
Uber and Ola Cabs are
application-based services that
can be accessed in big cities
through mobile phones.
The ubiquitous auto-
rickshaws (popularly called
autos, scooters or phat-phats)
are the most common mode
of transport in most places.
Autos are more economical Modern, low-floor buses on the busy streets of Delhi




758-759_EW_India.indd 758 26/04/17 11:56 am

TR A VEL INFORM A TION  759


common in small towns and
around railway stations,
and offer leisurely rides. In
Rajasthan, camel carts are
also available – they offer a
novel, if jerky, journey.
Jeeps and vans can be hired
from cities (see p755) for short
trips to explore the environs and
neighbouring towns. They are
also the main form of transport
in Ladakh. Jeeps are also the
best way of exploring the hills.
Many areas have shared jeep
taxis, which work out cheaper
than private jeeps. A flat rate is
usually charged, which includes
Motorcycle taxis, a convenient way of getting around in Goa any tolls en route. Private cars
are not allowed in certain hill
the rush hour is best avoided. their environs is by motorcycle towns, where the easiest options
Women should use the “ladies or bicycle. In Goa, motorcycle are to hire cycle-rickshaws or to
only” compartments. There are taxis are distinguished by their explore the area on foot.
three main lines, the most yellow mudguards and number
popular of which leaves from plates, and are available every- Road Names
Churchgate and goes past where. If you prefer to travel
Mumbai Central and Andheri. independently, motor cycles are In most cities, especially in the
In Chennai, the surburban also available for hire on a daily four main cities, many roads that
trains offer fast connections basis. Towns such as Puducherry, were named after Raj-era figures,
from Egmore to Central Station Hampi, Belur and Halebid, can have been renamed after well-
or George Town, and, also to be explored by bicycle, available known Indian and inter national
Guindy or the airport. for rent at reasonable rates. figures. This might cause some
India’s first underground metro confusion, as maps often carry
railway is in Kolkata. Limited the newer names, while locals
routes in the northern and Other Modes of usually refer to the road by the
Transport
southern sectors are open, and old name. When in doubt, it is
the lines are still being extended. Other transport options include best to ask two or three people,
The network consists of one minibuses, cycle-rickshaws and and cross-check the directions
operational line (Line 1) and one e-rickshaws. Cycle-rickshaws are that you are given. Maps on
under construction (Line 2), with a popular and practical means mobile phones such as Google
four lines in various stages of of transport to traverse the Maps and other GPS maps are
planning. The service is clean and congested pockets of the old also useful options.
efficient, and trains run between quarters of cities.
7am and 10pm every day. The They are more
main stations are situated plentiful in smaller
opposite the Oberoi Grand and towns, where they
near Dr M Ishaque Road. Certain can easily manoeuvre
sections of Chennai’s local through narrow
above-ground trains, the Mass bylanes and galis.
Rapid Transit System (MRTS), are It is best to negotiate
operational, while Delhi’s metro rates in advance,
has six lines running through the though some of
city to neighbouring centres like them may have a flat
Gurgaon and Noida. The third rate for fixed routes.
and fourth phases of the Delhi Tempos are battery-
Metro will introduce the powered wagon-like
Magenta Line and the Brown vehicles, equipped
Line and several extensions that with seats in the rear
should be operational in 2017 half. Uncomfortable
and 2021 respectively. and overcrowded,
they charge flat
rates for fixed routes.
Motorcycles and Bicycles Horse-drawn
Often the best way to explore carriages (tongas or People sharing a jeep ride on a highway, a common sight
smaller towns and cities and ikkas) are also very across the country




758-759_EW_India.indd 759 26/04/17 11:56 am

760  GENER AL INDEX

General Index


Page numbers in bold type refer to Alagarkoil 613 Anjuna 15, 494
main entries. Alai Darwaza (Delhi) 98 restaurants 715
Alamgir Dargah (Ahmadnagar) 477 Ankh Michauli (Fatehpur Sikri) 185
A Alampur 681 Anna Salai (Chennai) 563, 571
Aam Khas Bagh (Sirhind) 106, 107 Alappuzha (Alleppey) 16, 638 Annadurai, CN 571, 572
Aarti 211 hotels 703 Annamalai University (Chidambaram)
Abbé de Faria Street (Margao) 509 restaurants 718 594
Abdar Khana (Fatehpur Sikri) 186 Alauddin Ahmad II 549 Annandale (Shimla) 116
Abishek Pushkarni Tank (Vaishali) 221 Alauddin Khilji 52, 94, 95, 98, 479, 605 Annavaram 676
Abominable Snowman (Yeti) 303, 306 Albuquerque, Alfonso de 491, 504, 505 Anoop Talao (Fatehpur Sikri) 184, 186
Abu’l Fazl 374, 477 Alchi Antarvedi 676
Acclimatization 119, 140, 157, 193, 307 hotels 695 Antiques
Achalgarh 398 restaurants 708 exporting 721, 735
Achyuta Raya 534, 536 Alchi Monastery (Ladakh) 9, 13, 148–50 reproductions 723
Adalaj Vav (Gujarat) 418–19 Alcohol 705, 739 shops 100–101, 466–7, 578–9
Addresses 746–7 Alexander the Great 46, 151 what to buy 721
Adham Khan 86, 97, 253 Alexandra, Queen 59 Apatani tribe 337
Adi Perukku 593 Ali Adil Shah I 546 Apollo Bunder (Mumbai) 450
Adi tribe 337, 340 Ali Shah Barid 549 Apsara Vihar (Pachmarhi) 256
Adil Shahi dynasty 490, 546, 589 Alibag 470 Apsaras 240
Adinath 400 Aligarh 198–9 Arabian Sea 22, 348, 349, 555, 619, 650
Admission charges 736 Aligarh Muslim University 198 Arabs 48, 413, 442, 629, 637
Adventure sports 728, 731 Alipore (Kolkata) 282–3 Araku Valley 675
Adyar (Chennai) 575 All Saints Procession (Goa) 497 Arambol 495, 497
Aerial Bay (North Andaman) 627 Allahabad 166, 214–15 Aranmula 636, 637
Afzal Khan 180 restaurants 708 Aravalli Hills 92, 355, 375, 398, 399, 408
Agartala 341 Almora 194–5 Architecture
hotels 698 Almora Jail 194 Chettiar mansions 616
restaurants 712 Along 337 Chola dynasty 51
Agasthyarkoodam 633 Altitude sickness 119, 140, 157, 193, 307, colonial 59
Agatti Island 650 743 Goa’s colonial mansions 510
Agonda 15, 511 Alvaras 49 Himalayan 69
Agra 172–81 Alwar 374 Hoysala 528
10 Days in the Golden Triangle 8, 11 Amar Singh Gate (Agra Fort) 174 Jaisalmer Haveli 391
festivals 183 Amba Vilas Palace (Mysuru) 522–3 Marblework in Jain Temples 400–401
hotels 696 Ambaji 421 Mughal dynasty 55
map 173 Amber (Township) 370 Rabari bhoongas 434
restaurants 708 Amber Fort 11, 354, 368–70 sacred 24–5
Agra Fort 8, 174–5 Amboli 472 secular 26–7
Ahilyabai, Queen 254 Amir Khusrau 86 Temple towns 556–7
Ahmad Nizam Shah Bahri 477 Amir Mahal (Chennai) 574 Toda 611
Ahmadnagar 53, 477 Amonkar, Kishori 33 wooden architecture in Kerala 642–3
Ahmed Shah, Sultan 414, 421, 548, 549 Amravati 679 Arcot 588
Ahmed Shah Abdali 56, 110 Amrit Sarovar (Amritsar) 108, 111 Ardhanarishvara 51, 465
Ahmedabad 53, 414–17 Amritsar 60, 108–11 Argueiro, Ambrosio 504
hotels 699 hotels 694 Arjuna 30
map 415 restaurants 707 Armenian Street (Chennai) 565
restaurants 713 Anaimudi Mountain 653 Army & Navy Building (Mumbai) 452
Ahom kingdom 52, 53, 336, 343 Anand 423 Army Golf Course (Ranikhet) 195
Aihole 47, 542, 544–5 Anand Bhavan (Allahabad) 214 Art
Air travel Anandpur Sagib 107 Ajanta murals 484–5
domestic 750–51 festivals 105 Amravati sculptures 679
international 748–9 Ananta 29 Chola sculpture 51
Aizawl 341 Anantavarman, King 316 Deccani painting 547
hotels 698 Anasagar Lake (Ajmer) 380 Golconda miniatures 669
restaurants 712 Andaman Islands 620–27 Hoysala 528
Ajaigarh 242 hotels 703 Kalighat painting 281, 283
Ajanta 46, 47, 440–41, 468, 483–5 indigenous tribes 627 Lepakshi paintings 687
itineraries 8, 14 maps 21, 553, 621 Madhubani painting 221
Ajit Singh 385 restaurants 718 Miniature paintings 125
Ajmer 11, 380 snorkelling and scuba diving 623 Pahari miniature paintings 125
festivals 375 Andhra Pradesh & Telangana 555, 662–87 Rajasthani miniatures 409
Akbar, Emperor 53, 54, 97, 174 festivals 673 Rock paintings (Bhimbetka) 246
Ahmadnagar 477 food 559 shopping for paintings 721, 723
Dargah Sharif (Ajmer) 380 hotels 703 Thanjavur bronzes 598
Fatehpur Sikri 184–7 map 663 Thanjavur paintings 601
mausoleum (Sikandra) 182 restaurants 719 Arthur’s Seat (Mahabaleshwar) 473
Akharas 211 Anegondi 537 Arunchal Pradesh 264, 265, 327, 340
Akshaivata (Allahabad) 214 Anger, Roger 593 see also Assam & the Northeast
760-787_EW_India.indd 760 26/04/17 11:50 am
Eyewitness Travel LAYERS PRINTED:
Index template “UK” LAYER
(Source v1)
Date 6th September 2012
Size 125mm x 217mm

GENER AL INDEX  761





Arundale, George Sydney 576 Ayurveda therapy (cont.) Bardez, hotels 701
Aryabhata 47 Nizamia Unani Ayurvedic Hospital Bardoli 407
Aryans 45 (Hyderabad) 666 Bargaining 720, 739
Asaf Jahi dynasty 664, 669 Ayyapa cult 643 Baripada 324
Asaf-ud-Daula 200, 201, 202 Azad Maidan (Panaji) 491 festivals 313
Asafi Kothi (Lucknow) 202 Barkur 530
Asar Mahal (Bijapur) 546 B Barmer 394
Ashoka, Emperor 46, 91 Baba Atal Tower (Amritsar) 109 Barren Island 627
Ashokan Rock Edict (Junagadh) 430 Baba Kharak Singh Marg (Delhi) 79 Bars 725
Bodh Gaya 226 Babri Masjid (Ayodhya) 61, 164, 203 Mumbai 467
Dhamekh Stupa (Sarnath) 212 Babur, Emperor 53, 203, 237 Basant Panchami 41
Dhauli 313 Backpackers 736 Basilica de Bom Jesus (Old Goa) 501,
Jaugarh 320 Bactria 47 502–3
Sanchi 246, 249 Badami 28, 47, 540–41, 542 Baspa Valley 122, 123
Ashokashtami (Bhubaneswar) 313 festivals 521 Bastar folk art 257
Ashrafi Mahal madrasa (Mandu) 251 Badi Chaupur (Jaipur) 11 Baths
Ashrams 692, 693 street-by-street 358–9 Hamams (Red Fort, Delhi) 91
Anashakti Yoga Ashram (Kausani) 195 Badrinath 191 Royal Hamam (Sirhind) 106
Aurobindo Ashram (Puducherry) 17, Badshahi Ashurkhana (Hyderabad) 665 Batkamma (Warangal) 673
591, 593, 692, 730 Badshahi Darwaza (Fatehpur Sikri) 187 Batsavitri 229
Rishikesh 188 Baga Beach (Goa) 494, 495 Bay of Bengal 22, 265, 309, 619, 621
Sabermati Ashram (Ahmedabad) 415 hotels 701 Baz Bahadur 252, 253
Sevagram Ashram (near Wardha) 487 restaurants 715 Bazaars and markets 721
Sri Ramana Maharishi Ashram Bagdogra 298 Anjuna flea market 494
(Tiruvannamalai) 589 Bageshwar 195 Balu Bazaar (Cuttack) 322
Ashtur 549 Bahadur Shah Zafar, Emperor 57, 90, Bapu and Bara Bazaars (Udaipur) 402
Ashwem, restaurants 715 91, 96 Bara Bazaar (Shillong) 338
Asiatic Society (Kolkata) 280 Baha’i House of Worship (Delhi) 11, 99 Bazaar Street (Hampi) 536
Asiatic Society (Mumbai) 456 Baha’i sect 99 Bazaars of Old Delhi 91
Assagao, restaurants 715 Bahmani sultans 52, 53, 548 Chandni Chowk (Delhi) 88–9, 91, 100
Assam 52, 53, 265, 327 Bahubali, St 49, 526 Chatta Chowk (Delhi) 90
tea 266, 267, 336 Bahucharaji 421 Chennai 578
Assam & the Northeast 326–43 Baijnath 195 Chor Bazaar (Mumbai) 457
festivals 331 Baisakhi 39, 105 Covered Market (Margao) 509
hotels 698–9 Baker, Herbert 76 Crawford Market (Mumbai) 457
map 327 Bakhtawar Singh, Maharaja 374 food stalls 705
restaurants 712 Bakhtiar Khalji 222 Ganj (Shimla) 114
tribal peoples 340–41 Bakkhali 292 Ima Keithel (Imphal) 342
Asvem Beach (Goa) 436–7 Balban 52, 97 Johari Bazaar (Jaipur) 11, 359
Atgah Khan 86 Balbhadra 317 Khan Market (Delhi) 93
Ath-Sath Tirath (Amritsar) 108 Baleshwar 324 Kinari Bazaar (Delhi) 88, 91
Athpula (Delhi) 83 Ballard Estate (Mumbai) 461 Kishanpol Bazaar (Jaipur) 358
Atlantis Water Sports (Calangute) Balsamand 385 Kolkata 286
494 Balwant Singh, Maharaja 207 Kotwali Bazaar (Dharamsala) 126
ATMs 745 Bamboo and cane products 723 Laad Bazaar (Hyderabad) 667
Attara Kacheri (Bengaluru) 516 Banashankari 541 Lower Bazaar (Shimla) 12, 114
Auli 191 Banashankari Temple Fair (Badami) 521 Main Bazaar (Leh) 140
Aulia, Ibrahim Syed 617 Bandarpunch 68 Main Market (Aizawl) 341
Aurangabad 14, 478–9 Bandel 291 Manik Chowk (Jaisalmer) 390
hotels 700 Bandhavgarh National Park 230, 243, Mapusa Friday market 496
restaurants 715 256 Mumbai 466
Aurangzeb, Emperor 53, 55, 56, 107 hotels 696 New Market (Kolkata) 280, 286
Aurangabad 478 restaurants 710 Ruzaphema Bazaar (Dimapur) 343
Moti Masjid (Delhi) 91 Bandipur, hotels 701 Sadar Bazaar (Ranikhet) 195
and Shivaji 475 Bandra (Mumbai) 464 Sardar Bazaar (Jodhpur) 384
sword of 81 Banganga (Mumbai) 463 Tenzing Norgay Road (Siliguri) 298
Aurobindo Ghose, Sri 592, 593 Bangaram Island 650 Tibetan Market (Mussoorie) 190
Auroville 17, 593 Bangladesh 61 Zaveri Bazaar (Mumbai) 457
Auto-rickshaws 758 Bani Thani Radha 409 see also Shopping
to/from airport 749, 751 Banking 744–5 BBD Bagh (Kolkata), street-by-street
Avadh 57, 200, 202, 203 Bankura horses 295 274–5
Avalanche 608, 610 Bansberia 291 Beaches
Avalokitesvara 145, 148, 150, 468 Bappa Rawal 403 around Gokarna 530
Avantipora 159 Bara Basti 343 Goa 495
Aylmer, Rose 282 Bara Imambara (Lucknow) 201 Bead embroidery 175
Ayodhya 61, 164, 203 Bara Mastan Sada 612 Beating the Retreat (Delhi) 41, 76
Ayurveda therapy 633, 730, 731 Baradari (Dalautabad) 479 The Beatles 188
Arya Vaidyasala (Kottakkal) 656–7, Barakpur 291 Beauty products 721, 723
730, 731 Barddhaman 295 Beggars 739
760-787_EW_India.indd 761 26/04/17 11:50 am

762  GENER AL INDEX


Belgaum 538 Bihar & Jharkhand (cont.) Brahmins 45, 46
Belur 527 map 217 Brahmo Samaj 271
Belur Math 290 restaurants 709 Bramdungchung Nunnery 331
Benares Hindu University (Varanasi) Bijapur 53, 546–7 Brassware 722
212 Bijolia 408 Brighton End Corner (Almora) 194
Benaulim 509, 511 Bikaner 382–3 Brihadishvara Temple (Thanjavur) 24, 51,
Bengal, Kingdom of 53 hotels 699 602–3
Bengaluru 15, 441, 516–18, 555 restaurants 712 Brindavan 11, 183
airport 749 Bimbisara 224 festivals 40, 183
festivals 38, 40 Bindusagar Tank (Bhubaneswar) 310 British Bank of the Middle East
map 517 Binsar 194 (Mumbai) 456
restaurants 716 Bir Singh Deo 238 British rule 56–60
Bentinck, Lord William 57 Birbal’s House (Fatehpur Sikri) 186 Brocades 213
Berar kingdom 53 Birds Brock, Thomas 278
Berhampur 320 BRT Wildlife Sanctuary 524 Brodie Castle (Chennai) 575
Besant, Annie 575, 576 Keoladeo Ghana National Park 372–3 Brothers (Andaman Islands) 626
Besnagar 247 Khichan 383 Buddha Jayanti 39, 93, 229
Betul 511 Kumarakom bird sanctuary 642 Buddha Mahotsava (Sarnath/
Beypore 637, 657 Nal Sarovar Sanctuary 420 Kushinagar) 183
Bhagamandala 525 Ranganthittoo Bird Sanctuary 524 Buddhism
Bhagavad Gita 30 Vedantangal sanctuary 586 Bodh Gaya 226–7
Bhagiratha’s (Arjuna’s) Penance Birla, BD 82 Buddhist architecture 24
(Mamallapuram) 17, 582 Bishnoi tribe 385, 389 emergence of 46, 165, 217
Bhaktal 530 Bishnupur 294–5 Five Buddhas of Meditation 150
Bhakti cult 49, 52, 53 Bishop’s House (Kochi) 649 history 49
Bhalukpong 330 Bissau 376 iconography 145
Bharat Natyam (dance) 33 Bites, insect 743 In the Buddha’s Footsteps 225
Bharatiya Janata Party (BJP) 61 Bithur 199 Mahayana 47, 145
Bharatpur 371 Black Hole of Kolkata 276 Monasteries Along the Indus 142–3
Bharmal ki Chhatri (Amber) 370 Blair, Lieutenant Archibald 622 monastic dance-dramas of Ladakh 144
Bharmour 129 Blavatsky, Helena Petrovna 575 pilgrim sites 225
festivals 117 Boat House Club (Nainital) 194 Rajgir 224
Bhatkhande Music Deemed University Boat trips Sanchi 246–9
(Lucknow) 200 Backwaters Tour (Kerala) 638–9 Sarnath 212
Bhauma Kara dynasty 310 Goan river cruises 491 sculpture 47
Bhavani Island 678 Keoladeo Ghana National Park 372 sects in Ladakh 143
Bhavani Natya Shala Theatre (Jhalawar) The Sunderbans 292 see also Festivals; Monasteries, Buddhist;
407 Varanasi 209 Stupas; Temples, Buddhist; Tibetan
Bhavnagar 426 Boats 757 Buddhism
Bheemunipatnam 674–5 Kerala 637, 657 Buddhist Trail 225
Bhim Tal 194 races 40 Budget hotels 691
Bhima I 422 Bodh Gaya 165, 225, 226–7 Buena Vista Hunting Lodge
Bhimakali Temple (Sarahan) festivals 229 (Kapurthala) 108
120–21 hotels 696 Buguda 320
Bhimbetka Caves 246 restaurants 709 Buland Darwaza (Fatehpur Sikri) 187
Bhitargaon 199 Bodhi Tree, sacred (Bodh Gaya) 225, 226, Bumchu Festival (Tashiding) 305
Bhitarkanika Sanctuary 323 227 Bundela Rajputs 236, 238
Bhoj, Raja 244 Bodhisattvas 145 Bundelkhand, Tour of 236
Bhojpur 246 Body language 738 Bundi 408
Bhonsle dynasty 486 Bogmalo Beach 495, 511 paintings 409
Bhopa balladeers 385 Bolghatty Island (Kochi) 16, 647 Bureaux de changes 744
Bhopal 165, 244–5 Bollywood 36–7, 447, 464 Burma Road 337
climate 43 Bombay see Mumbai Burmese Pavilion (Kolkata) 277
hotels 696 Bombay Stock Exchange 457 Burne-Jones, Edward 277
map 245 Bomdila 330 Burra Din (Kolkata) 299
restaurants 710 festivals 331 Bus travel
Bhubaneswar 262, 310–11 Book shops 286, 287, 571 in cities 758
festivals 313 Bookings long distance 756–7
hotels 698 advance 734 Bushahr kings 120
map 310–11 domestic airlines 751 Buxar, Battle of 56
restaurants 711 hotel 690
surroundings of 312–13 rail tickets 752–3 C
Bhuj 432 Botanical Gardens (Kolkata) 285 Cabo de Rama 511
Bhuta cult 85 Bourbon, Jean Philippe 173 Calangute 494
Bicycles 759 Boutiques 721 hotels 701
Bidar 53, 548–9 Boys’ High School (Hyderabad) 664 restaurants 716
Big Vagator Beach 496 Braganza Cunha, Tristao de 491 Calcutta see Kolkata
Bihar 164–5, 217 Braganza House (Chandor) 509, 510, Calcutta University 276
Bihar & Jharkhand 216–29 512–13 Caldwell, James Lillyman 566, 571
festivals 229 Brahma 29 Calendar 737
food 169 Brahmapuri 189 Calico Museum (Ahmedabad) 415, 416–
hotels 696 Brahmaputra River 327, 329, 336 17
760-787_EW_India.indd 762 26/04/17 11:50 am
Eyewitness Travel LAYERS PRINTED:
Index template “UK” LAYER
(Source v1)
Date 6th September 2012
Size 125mm x 217mm

GENER AL INDEX  763


Calicut see Kozhikode Caves (cont.) Chandela dynasty 48, 240, 242, 280
Calligraphy 55 Kanheri Caves 464 Chanderi 237
Taj Mahal 177, 179 Karla Caves 476 Chandigarh 104–5
Camels 381 Khandagiri Caves (near Bhubaneswar) hotels 694–5
Camel Breeding Farm (near Bikaner) 312–13 restaurants 707
383 Lomas Rishi Caves (near Gaya) 224 Chandipur 324
Camel Safari around Jaisalmer 395 Mahadeo Cave (Pachmarhi) 256 Chandni Chowk (Delhi) 10, 91, 100
Camel’s Back Road (Mussoorie) 190 Mawsmai Caves 339 street-by-street 88–9
Camões, Luis Vaz de 491, 501 Pandava Caves (Pachmarhi) 256 Chandor 509, 510
Campbell, Sir Colin 201 Pandu Lena 478 Chandra Tal 134
Camping 692, 693, 728, 731 Ravala Phadi Cave (Aihole) 544 Chandragiri 684
Candolim Beach (Goa) 494, 498–9 Saptaparni Caves (Rajgir) 224 Chandragiri Hill (Sravana Belgola) 526
restaurants 716 Sudama Caves (near Gaya) 224 Chang-pa nomads 146
Canning, Lord Charles 57 Tiger’s Cave (near Mamallapuram) 9, Changspa 141
Canning, Lady Charlotte 276 17, 583 Chapels
Canoes 637 Udaigiri Caves (near Bhubaneswar) Blessed Sacrament Chapel (Chennai)
Cantonment (Agra) 175 312–13 577
Cantonment (Chennai) 577 Udayagiri rock-cut caves 247 Rosario Chapel (Daman) 425
Capitol Cinema (Mumbai) 457 Vishwakarma Cave (Ellora) 482 Royal Chapel of St Anthony (Old Goa)
Capitol Complex (Chandigarh) 104, Cellular Jail (Port Blair) 622 488, 500
105 Cemeteries St Catherine Chapel (Old Goa) 500
Car rental 754, 755 British 59 St Sebastian’s Chapel (Panaji) 492
Caravan trade 146, 152–3 Commonwealth War Graves Chariot Festival (Hampi) 535
Carey, William 283, 291 Cemeteries (Imphal) 342 Charlotte, Queen 565
Carnatic music and dance 32, 41, 579, Military Cemetery (Kanpur) 199 Charminar (Hyderabad) 662, 666
598, 599 Park Street Cemetery (Kolkata) 282 street-by-street 666–7
Carnatic Wars 56 Roman Catholic Cemetery (Agra) Charnock, Job 53, 271, 274, 276, 564
Carnival (Goa) 439, 497 172–3 Chatham Sawmills (Port Blair) 622, 623
Carpet shops 100, 101 War Cemetery (Kohima) 343 Chaubara (Bidar) 549
Cathedrals Cenotaphs Chaubatia (Ranikhet) 195
All Saints’ Cathedral (Allahabad) 214 Ahar (Udaipur) 402 Chauffeur driven cars 754
Anglican Cathedral (Madurai) 612 Alwar 374 Chaugan (Chamba) 128
Bom Jesus Cathedral (Daman) 425 Bada Bagh (Jaisalmer) 394, 395 Chaugan Stadium (Jaipur) 356
Cathedral Church of the Redemption Gaitor 11, 367 Chauhan dynasty 48, 49, 95
(Delhi) 78 Jaswant Thada (Jodhpur) 384, 385 Chaunsath Khamba (Nizamuddin
Cathedral of Reconciliation (Kohima) Mandore 385 Complex, Delhi) 86
343 Orchha 162, 238 Chennai 17, 555, 560–79
Cathedral of St Philomena (Mysuru) Shivpuri 237 airport 749
523 Central India 160–259 Chennai & Environs map 20
Lourdes Cathedral (Thrissur) 655 Bihar & Jharkhand 216–29 climate 43
Our Lady of Lourdes (Tiruchirapalli) food 168–9 festivals 41
604 getting around 163 getting around 563
Sacred Heart Cathedral (Tuticorin) hotels 696–7 hotels 702
618 Madhya Pradesh & Chhattisgarh 230– map 562–3
St George’s Cathedral (Chennai) 571 59 restaurants 717
St Mark’s Cathedral (Bengaluru) 517 map 162–3 shopping and entertainment
St Paul’s Cathedral (Kolkata) 277 portrait of 164–5 578–9
St Thomas’ Cathedral (Mumbai) 456 restaurants 708–10 Chera dynasty 47, 653
Santa Cruz Cathedral (Kochi) 16, 648 Uttar Pradesh & Uttarakhand 170–215 Cheraw dance 341
Sé Cathedral (Old Goa) 500, 504 Chail 116 Cherrapunji 43, 327, 339
Catherine of Braganza 447 restaurants 707 Shillong to Cherrapunji Tour 339
Causeway (Golden Temple, Amritsar) Chaitanya, Sri 295 Chet Singh, Maharaja 207
111 Chaitra Parba (Baripada) 313 Chettiar mansions 582, 616
Cavelossim 511 Chaityagiri Vihara Festival (Sanchi) 247 Chettinad 616, 617
Caves Chaityas 24 hotels 702
Ajanta caves 14, 468, 483–5 Chakravarty, Vidyadhar 357 Chhar 229
Amarnath holy cave 159 Chalukya dynasty 47, 49, 540, 542, 544, Chhatrapati Shivaji Maharaj Vastu
Aurangabad Caves 479 681 Sangrahalaya (Mumbai) 8, 14, 26, 451,
Badami rock-cut caves 540–41 Chamaraja Wodeyar 518 453, 454–5
Bagh Caves (near Mandu) 253 Chamarajanagar, hotels 701 Chhatrapati Shivaji Terminus (Mumbai)
Barabar Caves (near Gaya) 224 Chamarajendra Wodeyar 516 14, 449, 458–9
Bedsa Caves 476 Chamba 118, 128–9 Chhatris (Nagpur) 486
Bhaja Caves 476 festivals 117 Chhattisgarh see Madhya Pradesh &
Bhimbetka 246 restaurants 707 Chhattisgarh
Borra Caves 675 Champa Baoli (Mandu) 251 Chhota Imambara (Lucknow)
Edakkal Caves (Wayanad District) Champaner 424 202
658 Chamundaraya 526 Chhota Nagpur Plateau 228, 229
Elephanta Island (Mumbai) 465 Chamundi Hill (Mysuru) 15, 522, 523 Chhoti Chaupar (Jaipur) 358
Ellora rock-cut caves 14, 480–82 Chand Bibi Playing Polo 547 Chidambaram 556, 588, 594
Harper’s Cave (Pachmarhi) 256 Chand, Nihal 409 Chidiya Tapu 626
Hindu Rock-cut Caves (near Ponda) Chand Minar (Daulatabad) 479 Chikhaldhara 486
507 Chandannagar 291 Chikmagalur, restaurants 716
760-787_EW_India.indd 763 26/04/17 11:50 am

764  GENER AL INDEX


Children 736–7 Churches (cont.) Coach travel 756–7
in the British Raj 59 Our Lady of the Angels (Puducherry) to/from airport 749, 751
in hotels 693 590 Coaker’s Walk (Kodaikanal) 610
Chilika Lake 309, 320 Our Lady of Expectations (Chennai) Coastal landscape and wildlife 23
festivals 313 577 Cobbe, Richard 456
restaurants 711 Our Lady of Good Health (Chennai) Cochin see Kochi
Chinchinim 509, 510 577 Coconut palms 638–9
Chinsurah 291 Our Lady of the Immaculate Coffee shops 704–5
Chiplun 473 Conception (Panaji) 490–91 Cogan, Andrew 561
restaurants 715 Our Lady of Joy (Kanniyakumari) 619 Coimbatore 609
Chisholm, Robert Fellowes 568, 572, 573, Our Lady of Mercy (Colva) 511 Colaba Causeway (Mumbai) 451
612 Our Lady of the Mount (Old Goa) 505 College of Fine Art (Vadodara) 423
Chitirai 593 Our Lady of Pilar 506 College of St Paul (Old Goa) 505
Chitkul 123 Our Lady of the Rosary (Old Goa) 500, College Street (Kolkata) 276
Chitradurga 531 505 Colva 495, 511
Chitrakoot 215 Our Lady of the Snows (Tuticorin) Commonwealth Games (Delhi) 61
Chittorgarh 350–51, 406–7 618 Communications 746–7
Choglamsar 141 Sacred Heart (Mathura) 182 Communist Party of India 264–5
Chogyal dynasty 265, 302, 305 St Alex (Calangute) 494 The Company School 59, 79, 281
Chola dynasty 47, 49, 50–51, 80, 527 St Andrew’s Church (Darjeeling) 301 Congress Party 61
Gangaikondacholapuram 596 St Andrew’s Church (Secunderabad) Connaught Place (Delhi) 10, 79
Thanjavur 600, 602 668 Connemara Public Library (Chennai)
Cholamandal Village 582 St Andrew’s Kirk (Chennai) 560, 566–7 569
Cholera 742 St Andrew’s Kirk (Kolkata) 275 Construction materials 27
Choli 35 St Augustine (Old Goa) 500, 505 Consulates 735
Chor Minar (Delhi) 94 St Cajetan (Old Goa) 501, 504 Convents, Christian
Chorla Ghats, hotels 701 St Columba’s Kirk (Darjeeling) 301 St John of God (Old Goa) 500
Chota Imambara (Lucknow) 164 St Francis of Assisi (Old Goa) 501, 505 St Monica (Old Goa) 500
Choutuppal 672 St Francis Church (Kochi) 647, 649 Conversion chart 737
Chowdhary, Debi Prasad Roy 568 St George’s Church (Agra) 175 Coonoor 609
Triumph of Labour 572–3 St Ignatius Loyola (Rachol) 508 Cooper, Sir George 202
The Chowk (Bhopal) 244 St James’s Church (Delhi) 92 Coral Merchant Street (Chennai)
The Chowk (Lucknow) 202 St Jerome’s Church (Mapusa) 496 565
Chowpatty Beach (Mumbai) 14, 462 St John of God (Old Goa) 500 Coral reefs 623, 624, 650–51
Chowringhee (Kolkata) 280 St John’s Church (Kolkata) 274, 276 marine life 651
Christmas 299 St Mary’s Church (Chennai) 564 Corbett, Jim 197
Churches St Paul (Diu) 427 Corbett National Park 196–7
Afghan Memorial Church of St John St Thomas Church (Diu) 427 Corbyn’s Cove (near Port Blair) 622
the Evangelist (Mumbai) 25, 451 St Thomas Church (Palai) 643 Cornwallis, Lord 565
All Souls’ Memorial Church (Kanpur) São Tomé (Panaji) 493 Cornwallis Cupola (Chennai) 565
199 Schwartz Church (Thanjavur) 600 Coromandel Coast 676, 677
architecture 25 St-John-in-the-Wilderness driving tour 595
Armenian Church of St Nazareth (Dharamsala) 126 Coronation Memorial (Delhi) 92
(Kolkata) 277 St-John-in-the-Wilderness (Nainital) Correa, Charles 364
Basilica de Bom Jesus (Old Goa) 15, 501, 194 Costumes 34–5
502–3 Valia Palli (Kottayam) 642 Courier services 747
Basilica of Our Lady of Good Health see also Cathedrals; Chapels Courtyards 26
(Velankanni) 595 Churchgate Station (Mumbai) 26 Coutinho, Francis 504
Basilica of the Sacred Heart of Jesus Churidar 35 Cowper, Colonel Thomas 456
(Puducherry) 17, 592 Churu 376 Crafts Museum (Delhi) 10, 84–5
Basilica of San Thomé (Chennai) 574, Cinema 725 Craignano Rest House (near Shimla)
577 Bollywood 36–7 116
Cheria Palli (Kottayam) 642 Chennai 579 Crawford, Sir Arthur 457
Christ Church (Kanpur) 199 Mumbai 467 Crawford Market (Mumbai) 457
Christ Church (Mahabaleshwar) 473 Cinque Island 626 Credit cards 744–5
Christ Church (Pachmarhi) 256 Circuit House (Agra) 175 in shops 720
Christ Church (Shimla) 12, 114 City Palace (Udaipur) 2–3, 404–5 Cricket 462
Church of the Resurrection (Chennai) City Palace Museum (Jaipur) 11, 360–61 Cubbon, Sir Mark 516
577 Civic architecture 26 Cultural activities 730, 731
Havelock Memorial Church (Agra) Civil Disobedience movement 60 Currency 745
175 Civil Service 58 Curzon, Lord George 58, 59, 184, 278
Holy Cross (Cavelossim) 511 Classical music 32–3 Curzon Trail 193
Holy Cross (Manapad) 618 Climate 42–3, 734 Cusrow Baug (Mumbai) 451
Holy Spirit (Margao) 509 Clive, Lord Edward 571 Customs House (Mumbai) 461
Holy Trinity (Secunderabad) 668 Clive, Lord Robert 56, 297, 564, 565, 586 Customs information 735, 748–9
Luz Church (Chennai) 574 Clothing Cuthbert Bay (Middle Andaman) 627
Malayattor Church (near Kaladi) 652 Costumes of India 34–5 Cuts 743
Moravian Church (Leh) 141 etiquette 738 Cuttack 322
Mount St Mary Basilica (Banda, what to take 734 CVN Kalari Sangham
Mumbai) 464 Clubs (Thiruvananthapuram) 631
Nossa Senhora das Neves (Rachol) Chennai 571, 575 Cycle-rickshaws 759
508 Kolkata 287 Cycling 759
760-787_EW_India.indd 764 05/05/17 3:11 pm
Eyewitness Travel LAYERS PRINTED:
Index template “UK” LAYER
(Source v1)
Date 6th September 2012
Size 125mm x 217mm

GENER AL INDEX  765

D Delhi (cont.) Dikshitar, Muthuswami 599
Da Gama, Francisco 501 airport 749 Dilwara Jain Temples (Mount Abu) 48,
Da Gama, Vasco 53, 505, 647, 649, 657 Chandni Chowk street-by-street 88–9 398, 400–401
Dabbawallahs (Mumbai) 457, 461 climate 43 Dimapur 343
Dakhil Darwaza (Gaur) 297 Delhi & Environs map 19 restaurants 712
Dakshina Chitra 582 early capitals of 95 Dinpanah 83, 95
Dakshineshwar 290 entertainment 100–101 Disabled travellers 736
Dal Lake 158, 159 festivals 38, 39, 40, 41 hotels 693
Dalai Lama 67, 93, 113, 143 food 70–71 Discos 725
Dharamsala 126, 127 foundation of 48 Diskit 147
Tabo Monastery 135 getting around 75 Diu 426–7
Dalhousie 67, 128 history 52, 53, 56, 57, 60 hotels 699
hotels 695 hotels 694 restaurants 714
Dalhousie, Lord 277 map 74–5 Diving see Scuba diving
Daman 425 population 66 Diwali 31, 40–41
Dance Raj architecture 26, 59 Diwan-i-Aam (Agra Fort) 175
Chennai 578–9 restaurants 706–7 Diwan-i-Aam (Amber Fort) 370
Chola 51 shopping 100, 101 Diwan-i-Aam (City Palace, Jaipur) 361
classical music and dance 32–3, 724 Vijay Chowk street-by-street 76–7 Diwan-i-Aam (Fatehpur Sikri) 184, 186
courses 730, 731 Delhi & the North 60–159 Diwan-i-Aam (Red Fort, Delhi) 90
Delhi 100–101 Delhi 72–101 Diwan-i-Khas (Agra Fort) 175
folk 724–5 Flavours of Delhi & the North 70–71 Diwan-i-Khas (Fatehpur Sikri) 184, 185, 186
Kalakshetra (Chennai) 576 getting around 64 Diwan-i-Khas (Red Fort, Delhi) 90–91
Kathakali 33, 555, 661 Haryana & Punjab 102–11 Doctrine of Lapse 57, 199
monastic dance-dramas of Ladakh Himalayas 68–9 Dodda Betta 609
144 Himchal Pradesh 112–37 Dodda Vira, Raja 525
Mumbai 466–7 hotels 694–6 Dodital 68, 192
Northeast tribal 340–41 Ladakh, Jammu & Kashmir 138–59 Dolphin’e Nose (Visakhapatnam) 674
Odissi dance 32, 316, 317 map 64–5 Domestic architecture 26–7
Theyyam dance-ritual (Kerala) 659 portrait of 66–7 Dona Paula 491
Yakshagana (Karnataka) 539 restaurants 706–8 Doon Valley 190
see also Festivals Delhi Dhrupad Samoroh 38 Dorothy’s Seat (Nainital) 194
Dance Festival (Khajuraho) 247 Delhi Sultans 52, 53, 95 Dowleswaram Dam 676
Danger areas 740 Delhi University 92 Draksharamam 676
Daniell, Thomas 79, 279 Dengue fever 743 Drang-drung Glacier 154
Daniell, William 79, 279 Deogarh (Madhya Pradesh) 28–9, 237 Draupadi 30, 584
Daporijo 337 Deogarh (Rajasthan) 399 Dravidian culture 47, 554, 581
Dara Shikoh 80, 87 hotels 699 Dravidian Party 571
Darabshaw House (Mumbai) 461 Deoghar 221 Driving 754–5
Darasuram 597 Department stores 571, 721 Dubois, Abbé 521
Darbar Gadh (Jamnagar) 431 Derozio, Henry Louis Vivian 282 Dudhwa National Park 198
Darcha 13, 133, 156 Desert Festival (Jaisalmer) 41 Dufferin, Lord 115
Dards 151 Desert National Park 394 Duleh Rai 367
Dare House (Chennai) 565 Deshprabhu House (Pernem) 497 Duncan, Jonathan 456
Dargah of Baba Shah Musafir Dev Bhoomi 191, 192 Dundlod 376, 377
(Aurangabad) 14, 478 Dev Deepvali (Varanasi) 183 Dungarpur 406
Dargah of Babayya (Penukonda) 686 Deva Raya I 537 Dupleix, Joseph François 590
Dargah of Gesu Daraz (Gulbarga) 548 Devakottai 616 Durbar Hall (Ginjee Fort) 589
Dargah Konda (Visakhapatnam) 674 Devi, Rukmini 576 Durbar Hall (Golconda) 671
Dargah Qutb Sahib (Delhi) 11, 96 Devprayag 166, 191 Durbar Hall (Patiala) 106
Dariba Kalan (Delhi) 89, 100 Dewas 250 Durbar Niwas (Junagarh Fort, Bikaner)
Darjeeling 263, 300–301 Dhalpur Maidan (Kullu) 13, 130 382–3
hotels 697–8 Dhankar 135 Durga 29, 288
restaurants 711 Dhanushkodi (Rameshvaram) 617 Durga Puja 265, 285, 288, 299
tea 266, 267 Dharamkot 12, 126 Durga Temple (Aihole) 544, 545
Darjeeling Himalayan Railway (DHR) 298 Dharamsala 12, 67, 113, 126–7 Durgavati, Rani 256
Darshani Deorhi (Amritsar) 108, 111 festivals 117 Dussehra 40, 117, 121, 130, 131, 247
Dasada 433 hotels 695 Dussehra Chowk (Kaisalmer Fort) 393
Datia 236 restaurants 707 Dutch
Daulat Rao Scindia 210 trekking 118 Andhra Pradesh & Telangana 674–5, 676
Daulatabad 52, 479 Dharamshalas 692, 693 Kerala 646, 647, 648
David Sassoon Library (Mumbai) 452 Dharmasthala 529 traders 56
Day, Francis 561, 684 Dhauladhar Range 113, 124, 126, 129 Dvarapala 28
De Havilland, Major Thomas 566, 571 Dhauli 313 Dwarka 431
Debit cards 744–5 Dholavira 45, 433 Dyer, General Reginald 60, 109
Deccan Plateau 555 Dhoti-kurta 35 Dysentery 742
landscape and wildlife 23 Dhrangadhra 433 Dzongri Trail 307
Deeg 371 Dialling codes 747
Dehra Dun 190 Diamond Harbour 292 E
Delhi 66, 72–101 Diarrhoea 742 Earthquakes (Gujarat, 2001) 61, 349, 413,
3 Days in Delhi 10–11 Digha 292 432
10 Days in the Golden Triangle 8, 11 Diglipur (North Andaman) 627 East Godavari District 676
760-787_EW_India.indd 765 26/04/17 11:50 am

766  GENER AL INDEX


East India Company 53, 56, 57, 58, F Food and drink (cont.)
219 Fa-Hsien 212 Raj cuisine 59
Andaman Islands 622 Fairs 725 The Story of Indian Tea 266–7
Chennai 565, 568 see also Festivals vegetarian 705
Coromandel Coast 676 Faizabad 203 see also Restaurants
Kolkata 264, 275, 276, 279, 282 Faria, Abbé de 490 Forbes, Major WN 277
Mumbai 447, 457 Fashion shops (Mumbai) 466, 467 Forster, EM 224
Thalaserry 659 Fateh Sagar Lake (Udaipur) 402 The Hill of Devi 250
Eastern Ganga dynasty 48, 49, 52, 310, Fatehpur 376, 377 Forsyth, Captain James 256
314, 675 Fatehpur Sikri 8, 11, 53, 54, 184–7 Fort Kochi quarter (Kochi) 9, 16, 648–9
Eastern Ghats 608, 674 restaurants 708 hotels 703
landscape and wildlife 23 Feast of St Francis Xavier (Old Goa) 497 Fort Railway Station (Agra) 173
Eastern India 260–343 Ferozabad (Delhi) 91, 95 Forts
Assam & the Northeast 326–43 Feroze Shah Kotla (Delhi) 91 Adilabad (Delhi) 99
food 268–9 Feroze Shah Tughluq 82, 91, 94, 95, 98, Agra Fort 8, 11, 174–5
getting around 263 203 Ahichhatragarh (Nagaur) 380
hotels 697–9 Ferries 757 Ahmadnagar Fort 477
Kolkata 270–87 Festival of Andhra Pradesh Ajaigarh 242
map 262–3 (Hyderabad) 673 Allahabad Fort 214
Odisha 308–25 Festivals 38–41, 725 Ambarkot (Dalautabad) 479
portrait of 264–5 Andhra Pradesh & Telangana 673 Amber Fort 11, 354, 368–70
restaurants 710–12 Assam & the Northeast 331 Bala Qila (Alwar) 374
tea 266–7 Bihar & Jharkhand 229 Balakot (Dalautabad) 479
West Bengal & Sikkim 288–307 Goa 497 Bandhavgarh Fort 243
École Française d’Extrême-Orient Gujarat 425 Barabati Fort (Cuttack) 322
(Puducherry) 593 Haryana & Punjab 105 Bekal Fort (Kasaragod) 660
Ecological Centre (Leh) 140 Himachal Pradesh 117 Belgaum 538
Economy 61 Karnataka 521 Bengaluru 518
Edward VII 59, 93, 516 Kerala 633 Bhadra Fort (Ahmedabad) 414
Egmore (Chennai) 568 Ladakh, Jammu & Kashmir 141 Bidar 548–9
Eklingji 403 Madhya Pradesh & Chhattisgarh 247 Castella de Aguada (Banda, Mumbai)
Electricity 737 Maharashtra 477 464
Elephant Caves Festival (Mumbai) Odisha 313 Chandragiri Fort (Kasaragod) 660
477 Rajasthan 375 Chapora Fort (Vagator) 15, 496
Elephant Festival (Jaipur) 356, 375 Tamil Nadu 593 Chitradurga 531
Elephant Stables (Hampi) 15, 537 Uttar Pradesh & Uttarakhand 183 Chittorgarh Fort 350–51, 406–7
Elephanta Island (Mumbai) 8, 14, West Bengal & Sikkim 299 The Citadel (Bijapur) 546
465 Fidai Khan 105 Dabhoi Fort (near Champaner) 424
Elephants Figueredo House (Loutolim) 510 Dalautabad 479
Asian 654 Film City (Mumbai) 464 Daman Fort 425
safaris 197 Film festivals 41 Dansborg Fort (Tarangambadi) 595
Elizabeth I, Queen 53 Film industry 36–7 Deogarh Fort 237
Ellora 14, 49, 441, 480–82 Filose, Colonel Sir Michael 232 Diu Fort 427
Elphinstone, Mountstuart 456, 476 Firoz Khan Khwajasara 175 Dundlod Fort 376, 377
Elphinstone Building (Mumbai) 456 First aid kit 742 Fatehgarh Fort (Anandpur Sahib) 107
Elphinstone College (Mumbai) 453 Firuz Shah Bahmani 548 Fort Aguada (near Reis Magos) 494
Elphinstone Lodge (Matheran) Firuzabad 548 Fort Kochi 9, 16, 559, 648–9
476 Fishing Fort St George (Chennai) 17, 561,
Embassies 735, 741 Chinese fishing nets 16, 559, 639, 648 564–5
Emergency numbers 741 Konkan Coast 442 Fort William (Kolkata) 277
Emerson, William 279, 457 leisure 729 Ghagron Fort (near Jhalawar) 350,
Enlightenment 225 Flaxman, John 600 407
Entertainment 724–5 Flora Gingee Fort 589
booking tickets 724 Eastern Himalayas 303 Golconda Fort 670–71
Chennai 578–9 Himalayas 69 Gwalior Fort 199, 232–3
Delhi 100–101 Flora Fountain (Mumbai) 457 Jaigarh (near Jaipur) 367, 368
information sources 724 Flower shows/festivals 39, 40, 299 Jaisalmer Fort 350, 392–3
Kolkata 286–7 Foggini, Giovanni 502 Janjira Fort (Murad-Janjira) 470
Mumbai 466–7 Folk art of Bastar 257 Jhalawar 407
Epic poems 30–31 Folk theatre, music and dance 724–5 Juna Mahal (Dungarpur) 406
Eravikulam National Park 653 Food and drink Junagarh Fort (Bikaner) 382–3
Ernakulam (near Kochi) 647 alcohol 705, 739 Kalinjar Fort 215
Esch, Vincent 665 Dabbawallahs (Mumbai) 461 Kangra Fort 13, 124–5
Esplanade Mansion (Mumbai) 452 etiquette 704, 739 Kankwari Fort (Sariska) 375
Etiquette 738–9 Flavours of Central India 168–9 Kataka (Dalautabad) 479
restaurants 704 Flavours of Delhi & the North 70–71 Kirtidurga Fort (Chanderi) 237
Ettumanur 25, 642 Flavours of Eastern India 268–9 Kolaba Fort (Alibag) 470
European traders 56, 349, 413 Flavours of South India 558–9 Kumbhalgarh Fort 399
Everest House (Mussoorie) 190 Flavours of Southwestern India 444–5 Lakhota Fort (Jamnagar) 431
Everest, Mount 68, 301, 306 Flavours of Western India 352–3 Lohagarh (Anandpur Sahib) 107
Everest, Sir George 190 food and water-borne diseases 742 Lohagarh (Bharatpur) 350, 371
Exhibitions, Delhi 101 Hyderabad 669 Madan Mahal Fort (Jabalpur) 256
760-787_EW_India.indd 766 05/05/17 3:11 pm
Eyewitness Travel LAYERS PRINTED:
Index template “UK” LAYER
(Source v1)
Date 6th September 2012
Size 125mm x 217mm

GENER AL INDEX  767


Forts (cont.) Gajner 383 Gaur 297
Madikeri Fort 525 Galgibaga 511 Gaya 224
Mehrangarh Fort (Jodhpur) 384, 386– Galta 366 Gem stones 365, 669, 670
8, 396–7 Gana Puram 673 General Post Office (Chennai) 565
Nahargarh 367 Ganapatipule 470 General Post Office (Kolkata) 275
Namgyal Tsemo (Leh) 140 Gandamadana Hill (Ramanathaswamy) General Post Office (Mumbai) 461
Old Shahi Fort (Jaunpur) 203 617 George III 565
Pavagadh Fort (Champaner) 424 Gandhi, Indira 61, 164 George V 279, 665
Pratapgarh 473 Gandhi, Mohandas Karamchand Chhatrapati Shivaji Maharaj Vastu
Purana Qila (Delhi) 83, 95 (Mahatma) 60, 349, 577 Sangrahalaya (Mumbai) 454
Qila Mubarak (Patiala) 106 Aga Khan Palace (Pune) 474 Coronation Memorial (Delhi) 92
Raigad 473, 475 assassination 60–61, 91 Gateway of India (Mumbai) 450
Raisen Fort (near Sanchi) 247 birthday 40, 91 George Castle (Shivpuri) 237
Rajasthan 350–51 Gandhi Memorial (Kanniyakumari) statue of 78
Rajgad 474, 475 619 George, Walter 92
Ramgarh (near Jaipur) 367 National Ghandi Museum (Delhi) 91 George Town (Chennai) 17, 561, 565
Ramnagar Fort (Varanasi) 212 Porbandar 430 Ghalib, Mirza 86
Ranthambhore 350, 410 Rajghat (Delhi) 91 Ghalib Academy (Nizamuddin
Red Fort (Delhi) 10, 90–91 Sabermati Ashram (Ahmedabad) 415 Complex, Delhi) 86
Reis Magos 494 Sevagram Ashram (near Wardha) 487 Ghats
Rock Fort (Tiruchirapalli) 604 statue (Puducherry) 590 Anandamayi Ghat (Varanasi) 207
St Angelo Fort (Kannur) 659 Vaikom 642 Assi Ghat (Varanasi) 206
St Jerome’s Fort (Nani Daman) 425 Gandhi, Rajiv 61, 164 Chausatthi Ghat (Varanasi) 208
Shaniwar Wada (Pune) 474, 475 Gandhi Jayanti 40 Chet Singh Ghat (Varanasi) 207
Shankar Fort (Jhansi) 199 Gandhinagar 415 Darbhanga Ghat (Varanasi) 208
Shivaganga Fort (Thanjavur) 600 Ganesh Deorhi Gate (Udaipur) 404 Dasashvamedha Ghat (Varanasi) 208,
Sindhurdurg Fort 472 Ganesh Pol (Amber Fort) 369, 370 209
Sinhgad 474 Ganesha 471, 654 Digpatiya Ghat (Varanasi) 208
Siri (Delhi) 94, 95, 101 Ganesha Chaturthi 462, 471, 477 Ganga Mahal Ghat (Varanasi) 211
Sitabaldi Fort (Nagpur) 486 Ganga dynasty 526 Har-ki-Pauri (Hardiwar) 188
Srirangapattana 520 Ganga Festival (Varanasi) 183 Harishchandra Ghat (Varanasi) 208
Sujanpur-Tira 125 Ganga Sagar 292 Janki Ghat (Varanasi) 206
Surat Castle 424 Ganga Sagar Mela 167, 299 Man Mandir (Varanasi) 209
Taragarh Fort (Ajmer) 380 Gangadhara 465 Manikarnika Ghat (Varanasi) 209,
Taragarh Fort (Anandpur Sahib) Gangaikondacholapuram 51, 596 210
107 Gangaur 375 Mir Ghat (Varanasi) 208
Taragarh Fort (Bundi) 408 Gangchen Kyishong (Dharamsala) 12, Nepali Ghat (Varanasi) 210
Terekhol Fort 497 126 Panchaganga Ghat (Varanasi) 211
Tipu’s Fort (Palakkad) 656 Ganges, River 164, 166–7 Pushkar 379
Tughluqabad (Delhi) 86, 95, 99 Allahabad 214, 215 Ram Ghat (Ujjain) 250
types of 350 Hardiwar 188 Ramghat (Chitrakoot) 215
Uparkot Fort (Junagadh) 430 myth of 167 Sati Chaura Ghat (Kanpur) 199
Vellore Fort 588 Rishikesh 188 Scindia Ghat (Varanasi) 210
Vijaydurg Fort 472 rituals performed in 211 Shivala Ghat (Varanasi) 207
Warangal 672 river tour along 189 Srirangapattana 439, 520
Zorawar Fort (Skara) 141 source of 191 Triveni Trith (Somnath) 427
Fossils, marine 69 Varanasi 206–12 Tulsi Ghat (Varanasi) 206
Four Square White-Water Rafting Ganges-Brahmaputra Delta 289, 292–3, Vishram Ghat (Mathura) 182
Challenge 39 329 Ghiyas, Mirak Mirza 87
Frampton, Sir George 279 Gangetic Plains 22, 162, 164, 167, 290 Ghiyasuddin of Malwa 252
Francis Xavier, St 497, 502, 504–5, 618, Gangotri 191 Ghiyasuddin Tughluq 86, 95, 99
657 Gangotri Glacier 192 Ghoom 299
tomb of 502, 503 Gangtok 302, 304 Gift shops
French festivals 39, 299 Chennai 578, 579
Machilipatnam 676 hotels 698 Delhi 100, 101
Mahe 659 restaurants 711 Kolkata 286, 287
Puducherry 590, 592 Ganpatipule, hotels 700 Mumbai 466, 467
traders 56 Garam Sarak (Dalhousie) 128 Gingee Fort 589
French Institute of Indology (Puducherry) Garamur 336 Girnar Hill (Junagadh) 430
593 Garbhagriha (womb chamber) 557 Glaciers 68
Frere Hall (Mahabaleshwar) 473 Garden City (Bengaluru) 516 The Glen (Shimla) 116
Frere, Sir Bartle 456, 459 Garhwal Hills 190, 191 Goa 441, 488–513
Fuel 755 trekking 192–3 1 Week in Goa and Karnataka 8, 15
Fundação Oriente (Panaji) 492 Garstin, Captain John 218 airport 749
Garuda 28 beaches and beach life 495
G Gateway of Adil Shah’s Palace (Old colonial mansions 510
Gada Shah’s House and Shop (Mandu) Goa) 501 festivals 497
251 Gateway of India (Mumbai) 8, 14, 446, hotels 701
Gadag 538 447, 450 map 489
Gadisagar Lake (Jaisalmer) 390 Gaumukh 166, 191 Portuguese rule 56, 60
Gagan Mahal (Bijapur) 546 Gaumukh Reservoir (Chittorgarh) 407 restaurants 715–16
Gaitor 11, 367 Gaumukh Trail 192 Goa Velha 506
760-787_EW_India.indd 767 26/04/17 11:50 am

768  GENER AL INDEX


Gobind Singh, Guru 107, 124, 218–19 Gurdwaras (cont.) Haryana & Punjab (cont.)
Godavari Gorge 676 Kesgarh Sahib Gurdwara (Anandpur map 103
Gokarna 530 Sahib) 107 restaurants 707
hotels 702 Sisganj Gurdwara (Delhi) 88 Hastings, Warren 56, 57, 276
Gol Gumbad (Bijapur) 547 Sisganj Sahib Gurdwara (Anandpur Hathi Pol (Fatehpur Sikri) 186
Golconda 53, 669, 670–71 Sahib) 107 Hathion ka Jhaad (Golconda Fort) 670–
Gold 519 Guru Granth Sahib 109, 110 71
Gold thread 175 Guru ka Langar (Amritsar) 109 Hatu Peak 117
Golden Temple (Amritsar) 61, 102, 108, Guru Purab (festival) 41, 105 Hauz Khas (Delhi) 94
109, 110–11 Guru Shikhar 398 Hauz-i-Shamsi (Delhi) 96
Golf 726–7, 731 Gurukul Kangri University (Hardiwar) Havelis
Golghar (Patna) 218 188 Bagore ki Haveli (Udaipur) 402
Gommateshvara, statue of (Sravana Gurus, Sikh 107 Bikaner 383
Belgola) 49, 526 Guruvayur 655 Calico Museum (Ahmedabad) 416–
Gond tribe 256 Guwahati 328–9 17
Gondwanaland 68 festivals 331 Jaisalmer 391
Gopalpur-on-Sea 320 hotels 698 Nagar Seth Haveli (Diu) 427
hotels 698 restaurants 712 Nathmalji’s Haveli (Jaisalmer) 390, 391
restaurants 712 Gwalior 232–3, 236 Painted Havelis of Shekhawati 376, 377
Gopuras 557, 614 festivals 247 Patwon ki Haveli (Jaisalmer) 390, 391
Gothic Revivalist style 26 hotels 697 Purani Haveli (Hyderabad) 664
Goubert Salai (Puducherry) 590, 591 restaurants 710 Salim Singh’s Haveli (Jaisalmer) 390,
Goudaguda, hotels 698 Gyakar Sinyi Lake 337 391
Government College of Arts and Crafts Gyan Vapi Well (Varanasi) 212 Havelock, Sir Henry 201
(Chennai) 568, 573 Gyaraspur 247 Havelock Island 620, 626–7
Government emporia 721 Gymkhana Club (Chennai) 571 hotels 703
Government House (Mahabaleshwar) restaurants 718
473 H Hawa Mahal (Fatehpur Sikri) 186
Government Museum Complex Haider Ali 57, 518, 521, 522, 529, 656 Hawa Mahal (Jaipur) 8, 11, 356–7, 359
(Chennai) 568–9 Haji Begum 87 Hazaribagh National Park 228
Government Square (Puducherry) 590 Hajo 329 Headdresses 35
Govindarajaswamy Shrine Halebid 527 Healing 730, 731
(Chidambaram) 594 Halvad 431 Health 740–43
Grand Hotel (Mumbai) 461 Hamam see Baths yoga and holistic 188
Grand Trunk Road 67, 104, 183 Hamid Ali Khan 198 Heat 742
Grant-Duff, Mountstuart Elphinstone Hampi 15, 53, 514, 534–7 Heli tourism 727, 731
572, 577 festivals 521, 535 Heliodorus Column (Besnagar) 247
Granville, Walter 275, 280 hotels 702 Hemakuta Hill (Hampi) 15, 536
Great Himalayan National Park 131 Hampi Festival 521 Hemis Festival 141, 144
Great Stupa (Sanchi) 46, 248–9 Hanamkonda 672 Hemis Monastery (Ladakh) 13, 144, 157
Green Revolution 66, 103 Handicrafts Hemkund Sahib 191
Greetings 738 appliqué-work (Pipli) 313 Hepatitis A and B 742, 743
Gresham Assurance House (Mumbai) Bankura horses 295 Herbal products 721, 723
460 Bastar 257 Heritage hotels 691, 693
Griddhakuta Hill (Rajgir) 224 courses 730, 731 Heritage Tours (Mumbai) 467
Guardian Deities 145, 148, 609, 614 craft centres 721 Hessing, John William 173
Gudda Bishnoi 389 Crafts Centre (Bomdila) 330 High altitude desert 68, 134, 156
Guesthouses 691, 693 Kutch 435 High Court (Chennai) 565
Guides 736 shops 100–101, 286–7, 466–7, 578–9 High Court (Hyderabad) 664
Guindy National Park (Chennai) Tour of Marwar Crafts Villages 389 High Court (Mumbai) 452
576–7 what to buy in India 722–3 Hiking and trekking 727, 731
Gujarat 53, 349, 412–35 see also Textiles Garhwal and Kumaon 192–3
earthquake 432 Hang-gliding 39, 728 Himachal Pradesh 118–19
festivals 425 Hanuman 31, 115, 211 Ladakh & Zanskar 156–7
food 353 Hanuman Dhara (Chitrakoot) 215 Nigiris 610
hotels 699–700 Happy Valley (Mussoorie) 190 Sahyadris (Western Ghats) 477
map 413 Happy Valley Tea Estate (Darjeeling) West Bengal & Sikkim 306–7
restaurants 713–14 301 Hill stations 67, 117
see also Western India Haram Sara (Fatehpur Sikri) 186 Hillary, Sir Edmund 301
Gulbarga 548 Harappan culture 45 Himachal Hang Gliding Rally (Kangra)
Gulf of Kutch 431 Hardinge, Lord 92 39
Gulmarg 159 Hardiwar 166, 188 Himachal Pradesh 67, 112–37
Gumti Darwaza (Gaur) 297 festivals 40 2 Weeks in the Himalaya 9, 12–13
Gun Hill (Mussoorie) 190 restaurants 708 festivals 117
Gupta dynasty 47, 165, 250 Haripur 324 hotels 695
Gurdwaras 25 Harmandir Sahib (Amritsar) 108, 110 map 113
etiquette 738 Harsha, Emperor 47, 48 outdoor activities 119
Fatehgarh Sahib Gurdwara (Sirhind) Hart Point (Matheran) 476 restaurants 707
107 Haryana & Punjab 66–7, 102–11 trekking 118–19
Gurdwara Dukh Bhanhani Ber festivals 105 Himalayan Hotel (Kalimpong) 301, 698
(Amritsar) 108 food 71 Himalayan Mountaineering Institute
Harmandir Sahib (Patna) 218–19 hotels 694–5 (Darjeeling) 300, 301
760-787_EW_India.indd 768 26/04/17 11:50 am
Eyewitness Travel LAYERS PRINTED:
Index template “UK” LAYER
(Source v1)
Date 6th September 2012
Size 125mm x 217mm

GENER AL INDEX  769


Himalayas 68–9 Hotels (cont.) Indian Ocean 22, 619
2 Weeks in the Himalaya 9, 12–13 Tamil Nadu 702–3 Indipop 725
flora and fauna 69, 303 taxes 690 Indira Gandhi National Centre for the
geology 66 tipping 693 Arts (Delhi) 78
Great Himalayan National Park 131 touts 692–3 Indo-Greeks 47
landscape 22 Uttar Pradesh & Uttarakhand 696 Indonesia, trade with 322
Hinduism West Bengal & Sikkim 697–8 Indore 250
Allahabad 214 House of Ananda Rangapillai restaurants 710
Gaya 224 (Puducherry) 592 Indra 28
Hindu mythology 28–9 Houseboats (Srinagar) 159 Indragiri Hill (Sravana Belgola) 526
history 49 Howrah Bridge (Kolkata) 271, 285 Indrail Pass 753
Jagannath cult 317 Hoysala dynasty 49, 52, 527 Indus River/Valley 65
rituals performed in the Ganges 211 art and architecture 528 monasteries 142–3
temple architecture 24–5 Huddlestone, John 575 Indus Valley Civilization 45, 80, 280, 420
Vaishnavism and Shaivism 47, 51 Humayun, Emperor 53, 83, 297 Infectious diseases 743
Varanasi 206–12 Humayun’s Tomb (Delhi) 10, 87 Information technology 61, 516, 555
see also Festivals; Temples, Hindu Hume, AO 575 Inquisition (Goa) 505
Hindustani music 32–3 Humidity 742 Insect-borne diseases 743
Hiran Minar (Fatehpur Sikri) 186 Hundar 147 Institute of Tibetan Medicine
History 44–61 Huns 47, 48 (Dharamsala) 126
Hiuen Tsang 47, 212, 214, 223, 322 Hurja (Fatehpur Sikri) 187 Insurance 735
HIV/AIDS 743 Hussain, Zakir 33 adventure sports 728
Hodson, Lieutenant 91 Hussain Sagar (Hyderabad) 668 International Film Festival of India
Hola Mohalla (Anandpur Sahib) 105, Hussainabad Clocktower (Lucknow) (Goa) 41
107 202 International Film Festival of Kerala 41
Holi 38, 183 Hyderabad 555, 664–9 International Flower Festival (Gangtok)
Holkar dynasty 250, 254 Charminar street-by-street 666–7 39, 299
Home stays 691, 693 festivals 673 International Mango Festival (Delhi) 40
Hooghly 291 hotels 703 International Trade Fair (Delhi) 41
Hooghly River 271, 285, 290–91 Hyderabadi culture 669 International Yoga Week (Rishikesh)
Horniman, Benjamin Guy 456 map 665 183
Horniman Circle (Mumbai) 456 restaurants 719 Internet 746
Horse racing 277, 463 Intestinal worms 742
Horse riding 727, 731 I Irving, Henry 522
Horse-drawn carriages 759 Ibn Battuta 94 Irwin, Henry 569
Horticultural Research Station (Yecaud) Ibrahim II 546 Isar Lat (Jaipur) 358
608 Ibrahim Lodi 53 Ishwari Singh 358
Hospitals 741 Ice House (Chennai) 573 Islam
Hot springs (Taptapani) 320 Iconography, Buddhist 145 festivals 38, 39, 40, 141
Hotel Royal (Kolkata) 277 Id-ul-Fitr 40 introduction of 52
Hotels 690–703 Id-ul-Zuha 40 Islamic architecture 25
Andaman Islands 703 Ikshvaku dynasty 47, 680 Island Tourism Festival (Port Blair) 41
Andhra Pradesh & Telangana 703 Illuminated manuscripts Itanagar 336–7
Assam & the Northeast 698–9 Mughal 55 hotels 699
Bihar & Jharkhand 696 National Museum (Delhi) 81 restaurants 712
budget 691 Iltutmish 52, 96, 98 Itimad-ud-Daulah, Tomb of (Agra) 180–
chains 693 Ilyas Shahi dynasty 52, 297 81
Chennai 702 Immigration 734, 735 Itineraries 8–17
Delhi 694 Immunization 735, 742, 743 1 Week in Goa and Karnataka 8, 15
facilities for special needs & children Imperial Durbar (1903) 59 1 Week in Kerala 9, 16
693 Impey, Elijah 282 1 Week in Mumbai and Maharashtra 8,
Goa 701 Imphal 342 14
grading and facilities 690 festivals 331 1 Week in Tamil Nadu 9, 17
Gujarat 699–700 hotels 698 2 Weeks in the Himalaya 9, 12–13
Haryana & Punjab 694–5 restaurants 712 3 Days in Delhi 10–11
heritage 691, 693 Independence 60 10 Days in the Golden Triangle 8, 11
hidden costs 690–91 Independence Day 40 see also Tours
Himachal Pradesh 695 India Gate (Delhi) 10, 78
Karnataka 701–2 India-China War 60, 61 J
Kerala 703 India-Pakistan Wars 60, 61, 78 Jabalpur 256
Kolkata 697 Indian Coffee House (Kolkata) 276 Jacob, Sir Samuel Swinton 172, 357
Ladakh, Jammu & Kashmir 695–6 Indian Martyrs’ Memorial (Lucknow) Jagannath cult 317
luxury 691 201 Jagat Singh, Raja 108, 131
Madhya Pradesh & Chhattisgarh Indian Museum (Kolkata) 280–81 Jagatsukh 132
696–7 Indian Mutiny 57, 58 Jageshwar 194–5
Maharashtra 700–701 Kanpur 199 Jahan-e-Khusrau (Delhi) 38–9
middle-range 691 Kashmiri Gate (Delhi) 92 Jahanara Begum 86, 172, 175
Mumbai 700 Khuni Darwaza (Delhi) 91 Jahangir, Emperor 53, 55, 124, 182, 187
Odisha 698 Lucknow 200–201 Mandu 252
pricing and booking 690 Mutiny Memorial (Delhi) 92 Jahangir Giving Alms 454
Rajasthan 699 Rani Lakshmibai 199 Jahangir Mahal (Orchha) 238–9
special 692, 693 Indian National Congress 60 Jahanpanah (Delhi) 94, 95
760-787_EW_India.indd 769 26/04/17 11:50 am

770  GENER AL INDEX


Jahaz Mahal (Delhi) 96 Jesuits 505 Kamaraj, K 77, 577
Jahaz Mahal (Mandu) 251, 252–3 Jewellery Kamarajar Salai (Chennai) 572
Jai Singh I 368 gold 519 Kambadahalli 526
Jai Singh II 56, 82, 209, 250 Jaipur 365 Kamroo 123
building of Jaipur 357 Mughal 55 Kanauj 47, 48
Gaitor 367 shops 100–101, 466–7, 578–9 Kanchendzonga 68, 265, 289, 300, 304–5,
Jantar Mantar (Jaipur) 358, 362–3 what to buy 721, 722 306
Nahargarh 367 Jews 447, 646–7 Kanchipuram 9, 17, 47, 586–7, 588
Jaigarh (near Jaipur) 367, 368 Jhalawar 407 Kandariya Mahadev Temple (Khajuraho)
Jainism 349, 400 Jhalrapatan 407 24, 240–41
emergence of 46 Jhanjheli 124 Kangra 124
history 49 Jhansi 199, 236 festivals 39
Parasnath 228 Jhansi Festival 183 Kangra Valley 12, 113, 124–5, 129
see also Festivals; Temples, Jain Jharkhand 165, 217 Kanha National Park 256, 258–9
Jaipur 348, 356–67 see also Bihar & Jharkhand hotels 697
10 Days in the Golden Triangle 8, 11 Jinnah, Mohammad Ali 60 restaurants 710
Around Badi Chaupar street-by-street Jiyajirao Scindia 237 Kanishka 47, 155
358–9 JN Petit Institute and Library (Mumbai) Kankroli 399
climate 42 457 Kanniyakumari 554, 619
festivals 41, 356, 375 Jodhpur 348, 384–8, 389, 396–7 hotels 702
history 56, 357 hotels 699 restaurants 718
hotels 699 map 384 Kannur 659
jewellery 365 restaurants 713 restaurants 716
map 356–7 Jogindernagar 125 Kanoi 395
restaurants 712–13 Jokhang (Leh) 140 Kanpur 199
Jaisalmer 390–94 Jolly Buoy Island 624 Kanwar Mela (Hardiwar) 40
Camel Safari around 395 Jones, Sir William 280, 282 Kanwarias 167
festivals 41 Jorasanko (Kolkata) 271, 284 Kapoor, Kareena 36
hotels 699 Joshimath 191 Kappad 657
in jeopardy 392 Juhu Beach (Mumbai) 464 Kappil Beach (Kasaragod) 660
restaurants 713 Junagadh 412, 430 Kapurthala 108
Jait Sagar Lake (Bundi) 408 Junagadh, Nawab of 430 Karaikal 595
Jal Mandir (Bijapur) 546 Karaikudi 616, 617
Jalal-ud-din 297 K restaurants 717
Jaldapara Wildlife Sanctuary 298–9 Kabir (saint-poet) 52 Karakoram Range 147
Jallianwala Bagh (Amritsar) 60, 109 Kachari rulers 343 Kargil 151
Jalori Pass 130 Kachcch, hotels 699 Karim’s (Delhi) 89, 706
Jam Rawal, Prince 431 Kachhawaha dynasty 348, 367, 368 Karkala 529
Jama Masjid (Agra) 172 Kadmat Island 650–51 Karmapa, Gyalwa 302
Jama Masjid (Delhi) 8, 10, 73, 89, 90 Kafour 122 Karmatang (Middle Andaman) 627
Jama Masjid (Fatrehpur Sikri) 187 Kahala 395 Karnal 104
Jamali 97 Kahn, Louis 415 Karnataka 49, 441, 514–49
Jammu 158 Kaif, Katrina 37 1 Week in Goa and Karnataka 8, 15
restaurants 708 Kailasagiri (Visakhapatnam) 674 festivals 521
see also Ladakh, Jammu & Kashmir Kailasanatha Temple (Ellora) 14, 49, hotels 701–2
Jamnagar 431 480–81 map 515
Jamshed-e-Navroz 39 Kakatiya dynasty 52, 672, 673 performing arts 539
Jamshedpur 229 Kakuni 389 restaurants 716–17
Janmashtami 477 Kala Ghoda (Mumbai), street-by-street wildlife sanctuaries 524
Janmashtami (Brindavan/Mathura) 40, 452–3 Karsog 124
183 Kala Ghoda Festival (Mumbai) 38 Karthigai (Tiruvannamalai) 588, 593
Janpath (Delhi) 79 Kaladi 652 Karttikeya 28, 29
Jantar Mantar (Delhi) 82 Kalakshetra (Chennai) 576, 730 Karunanidhi, M 571
Jantar Mantar (Jaipur) 11, 358, 362–3 Kalaripayattu 630, 631, 659 Karwar 530
Janu 301 Kalidasa Festival (Nagpur) 477 Karzok 146
Jaonli Peak 68 Kalighat (Kolkata) 283 Kasaragod District 660
Jari 118 Kalimpong 301 Kasauli 67, 117
Jaswant Singh II 384, 385 hotels 698 Kashi Art Café (Kochi) 648
Jatayu 31 restaurants 711 Kashmir 158–9
Jatra (Quepem) 497 Kalinga, Battle of 313, 320 dispute over 60
Jatra(Jharkhand) 229 Kalinjar Fort 215 food 71
Jats 371 Kallanai 605 see also Ladakh, Jammu & Kashmir
Jaugarh 320 Kalna 295 Kashmiri Gate (Delhi) 92
Jaunpur 53, 203 Kalpa 123 Kathak (dance) 32
Jawahar Kala Kendra (Jaipur) 11, 364 Kalpeni Island 651 Kathakali 33, 555, 661
Jayadeva 296 Kalpetta 658 Kathok Lake 305
Jayalalitha 555, 571 Kalyana Mahal (Ginjee Fort) 589 Katrain 132
Jeejeebhoy, Sir Jamsetjee 456 Kalyana Mandapas (marriage halls) 556 Kaudiyala 189
Jeeps 759 Kamadgiri Hill (Chitrakoot) 215 Kauravas 30
safaris 156, 157, 727, 731 Kamalahassan 571 Kausambi 215
taxis 759 Kamalapuram 536 Kausani 195
Jehan Begum 244 Kamani Auditorium (Delhi) 79, 100, 101 Kavaratti Island 650
760-787_EW_India.indd 770 26/04/17 11:50 am
Eyewitness Travel LAYERS PRINTED:
Index template “UK” LAYER
(Source v1)
Date 6th September 2012
Size 125mm x 217mm

GENER AL INDEX  771


Kaveri river 50, 441, 525, 552, 604 King Edward VII Memorial Hall (Kanpur) Koya tribe 325
delta 600 199 Kozhikode 657
Kumbakonam 596 Kinnaur 113, 119, 122–3 hotels 703
Srirangam 605 Kinner Kailash Range 122, 123 restaurants 718
Tiruvaiyaru 598 Kipling, Lockwood 114 Krishna I 480
Kayaking 119, 307, 728, 731 Kipling, Rudyard 67, 114, 183, 258, 386 Krishna, Lord 182, 183, 683
Kaza 134 Jungle Book 259 Krishna Gorge 681
Kaziranga National Park 332–3, 334–5 Kirkpatrick, James 668 Krishna Mandapa (Mamallapuram) 582
hotels 699 Kirti Mandir (Vadodara) 423 Krishna River 441, 680
Kedarnath 68, 191 Kirti Stambh (Chittorgarh) 407 Krishnadeva Raya, Emperor 534, 536,
Keibul Lamjao National Park 342 Kishangarh paintings 409 684
Kenduli 296 Kitchener, Lord 116 Krishnamurti, Jiddu 575
Kennedy, Captain Charles 114 Kochi 16, 646–9 Krishnaraja Wodeyar 522, 523
Kennedy’s Cottage (Luard) 117 airport 749 Krishna’s Butter Ball (Mamallapuram)
Kenneseth Ellyahoo Synagogue Fort Kochi street-by-street 648–9 17, 582
(Mumbai) 453 hotels 703 Kuchipudi (dance) 32
Keoladeo Ghana National Park 372–3 map 646 Kufri 116
Kerala 555, 628–61 restaurants 718 Kullu 13, 130
1 Week in Kerala 9, 16 Kochi International Pepper Exchange Kullu Valley 113, 124, 130
boats 637 647 festivals 117, 130, 131
festivals 633 Kochin 550–51 hotels 695
food 558 Kodagu (Coorg) 525 Kumaon Hills 194, 195
hotels 703 Kodai Lake 610 trekking in 192–3
map 629 Kodaikanal 610 Kumar, Ram 79
martial arts 630 hotels 702 Kumarakom 642
matrilineal family system 653 Kodava people 525 restaurants 719
restaurants 718–19 Koder House (Kochi) 648 Kumartuli (Kolkata) 285
wooden architecture 642–3 Kodungallur 577, 653 Kumbakonam 596–7
Kerala Kala Mandalam (near Thrissur) Kohima 343 Kumbh Mela 166, 171, 215, 250, 478
655, 730 hotels 699 Kumbhalgarh 399
Kettuvallams 637 restaurants 712 hotels 699
Keylong 13, 133 Kohinoor Diamond 670 Kundankari (inlay work) 365
Khairunissa Begum 668 Kolhapur 472–3 Kurseong 299, 307
Khajjiar 128 restaurants 715 hotels 698
Khajuraho 48, 165, 234–5, 240–42 Kolkata 264–5, 270–87 restaurants 711
festivals 247 airport 749 Kurukshetra 104
hotels 697 Around BBD Bagh street-by-street Kushak Mahal (Delhi) 82
restaurants 710 274–5 Kushana dynasty 47, 80, 182–3
temple architecture 24 climate 43 Kushinagar 225
Khalil Allah 549 festivals 41, 265, 299 festivals 183
Khalsa 107 getting around 273, 274 Kutch 413
Khan, Amjad Ali 32 Greater Kolkata map 273 rural life and art in 434–5
Khan, Bismillah 33 history 53 Kyd, Colonel 282, 285
Khan, Shah Rukh 36 hotels 697
Khan Market (Delhi) 93 Kolkata & Environs map 19 L
Khan-i-Jahan Junan Shah 94 map 272–3 Lachmangarh 376, 377
Khandala 476 restaurants 710–11 Lachung 304
Khardung-la 147 shopping & entertainment 286–7 Ladakh 9, 138–57
Khas Mahal (Agra Fort) 174–5 Kollam (Quilon) 16, 638 Ladakh Festival 141
Khas Mahal (Red Fort, Delhi) 90 Kollengode 656 Ladakh, Jammu & Kashmir 67, 138–59
Khasi tribe 338, 339, 340 Kollur 530 2 Weeks in the Himalaya 9, 12–13
Khecheopairi Lake 305 Konark festivals 141
Khichan 383 Dance Festival 313 food 71
Khiching 325 hotels 698 hotels 695–6
Khilanmarg 159 restaurants 712 map 139
Khilji dynasty 52, 94 Sun Temple 314–16 outdoor activities 156
Khirkee Mosque (Delhi) 94 Kondapalli 678 restaurants 708
Kholapur, hotels 700 Kondh tribe 325 trekking 156–7
Khonoma 343 Konkan Coast 442–3 A Lady (Varma) 519
Khotachiwadi (Mumbai) 463 Konkan Railway 441 Lahaul 13, 112, 113, 133
Khudabaksh Library (Patna) 218 Konyak tribe 340 Lahore Gate (Delhi) 89, 90
Khudawan Khan 424 Koothambulams (traditional theatres) Lahori, Abdul Hamid 280
Khudei 35 643 Lai Haraoba (Imphal/Moirang) 331
Khuldabad 479 Kota 407 Lake, Lord 198
Khumba, Maharana 399 paintings 409 Lake Pichola (Udaipur) 402, 404–5
Khuni Darwaza (Delhi) 91 Kotagiri 609 Lakkidi 658
Khuri 394 Kothari Kabutarkhana (Mumbai) 460 Lakkundi 538
Khush Mahal (Warangal) 672 Kottakkal 656–7 Lakshadweep Islands 552, 650–51
Khusrau, Amir 38 Kottayam 16, 642 Lakshman 31, 115
Khwabgah (Fatehpur Sikri) 184, 186 Kovalam 632 Lakshman Jhula 189
Kihim Beach 470 hotels 703 Lakshmi 28, 683
Kinari Bazaar (Delhi) 88 restaurants 718 Lakshmi Narayan Mandir (Delhi) 10, 82
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772  GENER AL INDEX


Lakshmibai, Rani 199, 236 Lucknow (cont.) Maharashtra (cont.)
Lal Baradari (Lucknow) 200 map 201 hotels 700–701
Lal Dighi (Kolkata) 275 restaurants 708 map 469
Lal Niwas (Junagarh Fort, Bikaner) 382 Lucknow Mahotsava 183 restaurants 715
Lalbagh Flower Show (Bengaluru) 40 Lungnak Valley 155 see also Mumbai
Lalitgiri 323 Lutyens, Sir Edwin Landseer 76 Mahatma Gandhi Road
Lamayuru 156 New Delhi 26 (Thiruvananthapuram) 630
Lanchester, HV 385 Rashtrapati Bhavan (Delhi) 76, 78 Mahavir Jayanti 39
Landor, Walter Savage 282 Luxury hotels 691 Mahavira, Vardhamana 46, 221, 224,
Landour 190 400
Landscape 22–3 M Mahayana Buddhism 47
Language 737 Macchetar 118 Mahbub Ali Pasha 664
Lansdowne 195 McCluskiegunj 229 Mahe 659
Laquerware 722 Machhli Kaman (Hyderabad) 667 Mahesamurti 465
Largo de Igreja (Margao) 509 Machilipatnam 676, 677, 684 Maheshwar 254, 255
Lavi Fair (Rampur) 117, 120 Mackinnon & Mackenzie Building hotels 697
Lawrence, Sir Henry 200–201 (Mumbai) 461 Mahmud of Ghazni 49, 52, 106, 125,
Lawrence School (Kasauli) 117 Mackintosh, Sir James 456 250
Lawson’s Bay (Visakhapatnam) 674 McLeod, General Duncan 296 Somnath Temple 427
Laxmi Vilas (Vadodara) 26 McLeodganj (Dharamsala) 9, 12, 126 Mahmud of Malwa 237
LD Institute of Indology (Ahmedabad) Madhav National Park 237 Maidan (Kolkata) 277
415 Madhavrao Scindia 237 Majestic Hotel (Mumbai) 451
Le Corbusier 104, 105, 415 Madho Singh I 358, 367 Majorda 511
Ledo 337 Madho Singh II 363, 364, 367 hotels 701
Legal assistance 741 Madhya Pradesh 165, 231 restaurants 716
Legislative Council Chambers Madhya Pradesh & Chhattisgarh 230– Majuli River Island 336
(Chennai) 564 59 Makalu 301
Leh 9, 13, 140–41 festivals 247 Makar Mela (Chilika Lake) 313
festivals 141 food 169 Makar Sankrati 41
hotels 695 hotels 696–7 Malabar Hill (Mumbai) 14, 462–3
restaurants 708 map 231 Malabar House Residency (Kochi) 649
Lepakshi 686, 687 restaurants 710 Malana 132
Library of Tibetan Works and Archives Madikeri 525 Malappuram 656–7
(Dharamsala) 12, 126 Madras see Chennai Malaria 743
Lighthouses (Chennai) 565, 573 Madras Club (Chennai) 575 Malcolm, Sir John 254, 473
Likir 156 Madras Music Festival 41 Malik Ambar 478, 479
Linga Raja II 525 Madras University (Chennai) 572 Malik Kafur 612
Lingas, five elemental 588 Madrasa of Mahmud Gawan (Bidar) The Mall (Darjeeling) 300
Lions, Asiatic 427 549 The Mall (Shimla) 12, 114
Literacy 61 Madurai 556, 606–7, 612–15 Mallabhumi kingdom 294
Little Andaman 626 hotels 702 Malpe Beach 529
Little Mount (Chennai) 577 map 613 Malvan 472
Little Rann of Kutch Sanctuary 433 restaurants 717 Malvan Coast 472
Little Vagator 496 Maffi, Bernardino 173 Malwa sultans 251, 252
Lloyd, George 454 Magazines 747 Mamallapuram 9, 17, 28, 29, 49,
Lloyd, Lady 454 listings 100, 286, 466, 578, 724 582–5
Lodi dynasty 52, 53, 83 Magha Saptami Chandrabaga Mela Dance Festival 41
Lodi Gardens (Delhi) 83 (Konark) 313 restaurants 717
Lodurva 394, 395 Magnolia Point (Netarhat) 228 Man Mandir Palace (Gwalior Fort)
Lohri 41 Mahabaleshwar 473, 477 232–3
Loktak Lake 342–3 hotels 701 Man Singh I 54, 232, 368
Lonar 486 restaurants 715 Manali 13, 113, 118, 119, 132
Lonavla 476, 477 Mahabaleshwar Club 473 hotels 695
hotels 701 Mahabalipuram, hotels 702 restaurants 707
Long Island 627 Mahabharata 30, 45, 47 Mananthavady 658
Lords of the Four Quarters 145 Mahabodhi Temple (Bodh Gaya) 226, 227 Manapad 618
Losar 134, 331 Mahajanaka Jataka 484 Manasa Gangtori (Mysuru) 523
“Lost wax” technique 598 Mahakuta 541 Mandapas 557
Lothal 45, 420 Mahalaxmi Race Course (Mumbai) 463 Mandawa 377
Lotus Mahal (Hampi) 535, 537 Mahamaham Festival (Kumbakonam) Mandi 12, 13, 124
Lotus Pool (Taj Mahal) 177 596–7 festivals 117
Lotus Temple see Baha’i House of Mahamaham Tank (Kumbakonam) Mandi House Complex (Delhi) 79
Worship 596–7 Mandla 255, 256
Louisa Point (Matheran) 476 Mahamastakabhisheka 526 Mandore 385
Loutolim 509, 510 Mahansar 376 Mandrem 496
Loyola Furtado Mansion (Chinchinim) The Maharana Celebrating Gangaur 409 hotels 701
510 Maharana Pratap Sagar Lake 125 restaurants 716
Luard, Captain J, Kennedy’s Cottage Maharao Durjan in the Kota Forest 409 Mandu 53, 251–3
117 Maharashtra 440–41, 468–87 Mandvi 349, 433
Lucknow 200–202 1 Week in Mumbai and Maharashtra 8, Maner 219
festivals 183 14 Maner Urs (Maner) 229
hotels 696 festivals 477 Mangalgiri 678
760-787_EW_India.indd 772 26/04/17 11:50 am
Eyewitness Travel LAYERS PRINTED:
Index template “UK” LAYER
(Source v1)
Date 6th September 2012
Size 125mm x 217mm

GENER AL INDEX  773


Mangaluru 529 Maps (cont.) Margao 508–9, 510
restaurants 717 Kochi 646 Marijuana 130, 131
Mangan-Singhik 304 Kochi: Fort Kochi street-by-street Marina (Chennai) 561
Mangeshkar, Lata 473, 507 648–9 A Walk along the Marina 572–3
Manghasani Peak 325 Kolkata 272–3 Marine Drive (Mumbai) 14, 462
Mangoes 203 Kolkata: Around BBD Bagh street-by- Marine National Park (Gulf of Kutch)
Manikaran 131 street 274–5 431
Manimahesh Lake 129 Kolkata: Greater Kolkata 273 Maritreya Buddha (Mulbekh) 151
Manimahesh Yatra (Bharmour) 117, 129 Kolkata & Environs 19 Markets see Bazaars and markets;
Manipal 529 Ladakh, Jammu & Kashmir 139 Shopping
Manipur 265, 327, 342 Lakshadweep Islands 552, 650 Marshall, Sir John 246
see also Assam & the Northeast Lucknow 201 Marshall Building (Mumbai) 460
Manipuri (dance) 33 Madhya Pradesh & Chhattisgarh 231 Martand 159
Manjushri 145, 150 Madurai 613 Martial Arts (Kerala) 630, 631
Mannanam 642 Maharashtra 469 Martin, Major General Claude 202
Mannarsala 636 Mumbai 448–9 Martin, François 590
Mant, Major Charles 422, 472, 473 Mumbai: Greater Mumbai 449 La Martinière College (Lucknow) 202
Manuel I of Portugal 505 Mumbai: Kala Ghoda street-by-street Martyrs’ Memorial (Mumbai) 457
Maps 452–3 Marwar 53
A Tour of Northern Sikkim 304 Mumbai & Environs 21 Tour of Marwar Craft Villages 389
A Tour of Shekhawati 377 Narmada River 255 Mary, Queen consort 92, 450
A Walk through Old Goa 500–501 Nicobar Islands 21 Mashroba 116
Agra 173 Nubra Valley Tour 147 Masroor 125
Ahmedabad 415 Odisha 309 Master, Streynsham 564
Ajanta Caves 483 Panaji Old Town street-by-street Matanga Hill (Hampi) 536
Andaman Islands 21, 553, 621 492–3 Matheran 476, 477
Andhra Pradesh & Telangana 663 Patna 219 Matho Monastery (Ladakh) 143, 144
Assam & the Northeast 327 Periyar Tiger Reserve 644–5 Mathura 11, 80, 182–3
Bengaluru 517 Puducherry street-by-street 590–91 festivals 40, 183
Bhopal 245 Pushkar street-by-street 378–9 restaurants 709
Bhubaneswar 310–11 Putting India on the Map 19 Matri Mandir (Auroville) 17, 593
Bihar & Jharkhand 217 Putting Northern India on the Map Matrilineal family system (Kerala) 653
Buddhist pilgrim sites 225 18–19 Mattupetty Lake 16, 640–41, 652
Camel Safari around Jaisalmer 395 Putting Southern India on the Map Maurya, Chandragupta 46
Central India 162–3 20–21 Mauryan Empire 46, 165
Chennai 562–3 Railway map of India see back Mauryan Stone Pillar (Vaishali) 221
Chennai: Greater Chennai 563 endpaper Mawphlang 338
Chennai: A Walk along the Marina River Ganges 166–7 Mawsynram 43
572–3 River Tour Along the Ganges 189 Mayabander (Middle Andaman) 627
Chennai & Environs 20 road 755 Mayapur 295
Chola Empire 50 Sangla Valley Tour 122–3 Mayem Lake 496
Corbett National Park 196–7 Shillong to Cherrapunji Tour 339 Mayo, Lord 277
Coromandel Driving Tour 595 Shimla 115 Mayo College (Ajmer) 380
Delhi 74–5 South India 552–3 Medical services 741
Delhi: Chandni Chowk street-by- Southwestern India 438–9 Meenakari (enamel work) 365
street 88–9 Spiti 134 Meerut, festivals 39
Delhi: Greater Delhi 75 The Sunderbans 292–3 Megaliths 340, 343
Delhi: Nizamuddin Complex 86 Tamil Nadu 581 Megasthenes 46, 219
Delhi: Vijay Chowk street-by-street Thanjavur 601 Meghalaya 265, 327
76–7 Thiruvananthapuram 631 see also Assam & the Northeast
Delhi & Environs 19 Tour of Marwar Crafts Villages 389 Mehrangarh Fort (Jodhpur) 384, 386–8,
Delhi & the North 64–5 Tour of the Nilgiris 608–9 396–7
domestic air routes 750 Trekking in Garhwal and Kumaon Mehta, Deepa 37
Eastern India 262–3 192–3 Mehta, Zubin 451
Ellora Caves 482 Trekking in Himachal Pradesh 118–19 Mekkekattu 530
Goa 489 Trekking in Ladakh and Zanskar Melghat Tiger Reserve 486
Gujarat 413 156–7 Melkote 526
Haryana & Punjab 103 Trekking in West Bengal & Sikkim Menal 408
Himachal Pradesh 113 306–7 Menander I 46
Hooghly River 291 Udaipur (Rajasthan) 403 Menenzes Braganza, Francisco Xavier
Hyderabad 665 Uttar Pradesh & Uttarakhand 171 de 512, 513
Hyderabad: Charminar street-by- Varanasi 206–11 Menenzes Braganza, Luis de 491, 513
street 666–7 West Bengal & Sikkim 289 Menezes Braganza Institute (Panaji) 491
Itineraries 8–9 Western India 346–7 Meningitis 743
Jaipur 356–7 wildlife sanctuaries of Karnataka 524 Menon, Anjolie Ela 79
Jaipur: Around Badi Chaupar street- Mapusa 496 Menon, Vallathol Narayan 655
by-street 358–9 Mar Thoma Pontifical Shrine Merhauli Archaeological Park (Delhi) 11,
Jaipur: Outer Sites 366–7 (Kodungallur) 653 96–8
Jodhpur 384 Marathas 56, 57, 441, 475 Metro systems 758–9
Karnataka 515 Gingee Fort 589 Mewar, Kingdom of 53, 348
Kerala 629 Thanjavur 600 Mewar Festival (Udaipur) 375
Kerala: Backwaters Tour 638–9 Marble Rocks (Bhedaghat) 255, 256 Mewar paintings 409
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774  GENER AL INDEX


MGM Dizzee World (Chennai) 576 Monasteries, Buddhist (cont.) Mosques (cont.)
Mian Mir 110 Sangachoeling Monastery (Pelling) Jamali-Kamali Mosque (Delhi) 97
Middle Andaman 627 305 Kadam Rasul Mosque (Cuttack) 322
Mihtar Mahal (Bijapur) 546 Sani Monastery (Ladakh) 155 Karimuddin’s Mosque (Bijapur) 546
Mikir Hills 334 Sankar Monastery (Leh) 141 Katra Mosque (Murshidabad) 296
Mikkim 119 Shashur Gompa (Lahaul) 133 Khirkee Mosque (Delhi) 94
Milad-ul-Nabi 38, 141 Spituk Monastery (Ladakh) 141 Lattan Mosque (Gaur) 297
Mildenhall, John 173 Stakna Monastery (Ladakh) 142 Madhi Mosque (Delhi) 96
Minakshi Sundareshvara Temple Stongde Monastery (Ladakh) 155 Malik Mugith’s Mosque (Mandu) 252
(Madurai) 606–7, 614–15 Tabo Monastery (Spiti) 135 Mecca Masjid (Bijapur) 546
Minibuses 759 Tashiding Monastery 305 Mecca Masjid (Hyderabad) 666
Minicoy Island 651 Tawang Monastery 326, 331 Mina Masjid (Agra Fort) 175
Minjar (Chamba) 117 Thak-thok Monastery (Ladakh) 143 Moorish Mosque (Kapurthala) 108
Mint (Mumbai) 460 Thikse Monastery (Ladakh) 13, 143 Mosque of Akhund Mulla Shah
Mint Street (Chennai) 565 Thongsa Monastery (Kalimpong) 301 (Srinagar) 158
Miramar 491 Tibetan Monastery (Bodh Gaya) 226 Mosque of Isa Khan (Delhi) 87
Mirik 299, 307 Yiga Choeling Monastery (near Mosque of Shah Hamadan (Srinagar)
Missionaries of Charity 282, 283 Darjeeling) 301 158
Mizo tribe 341 Zong Dog Palri Fo Brang Monastery Moti Masjid (Agra Fort) 175
Mizoram 265, 327, 341 (Kalimpong) 301 Moti Masjid (Bhopal) 244
see also Assam & the Northeast Monasteries, Christian, St Augustine (Old Moti Masjid (Delhi) 91
Mobile phones 746 Goa) 500, 505 Nagina Masjid (Agra Fort) 175
Mobor 511 Money 744–5 Nagina Masjid (Champaner) 424
Model Room (The Residency, Monkey Point (Kasauli) 117 Nagina Masjid (Fatehpur Sikri) 186
Lucknow) 201 Monsoon 42, 734 Nakhoda Mosque (Kolkata) 277
Modhera Dance Festival 425 festivals and events 40 Nili Masjid (Delhi) 94
Modhera Sun Temple 48, 422–3 Southwest 442, 443 Pathar Mosque (Srinagar) 158
Mohini 28 Monte Hill (Margao) 509 Premamati’s Mosque (Golconda) 671
Moinuddin Christi, Khwaja 86, 380 Mor Chowk (City Palace, Udaipur) 405 Qadam Rasul Mosque (Gaur) 297
Moirang 342 Moradabad 198 Qila-i-Kuhna Mosque (Delhi) 83
festivals 331 Morjim 496 Qutb Shahi Mosque (Pandua) 297
Monasteries, Buddhist restaurants 716 Quwwat-ul-Islam Mosque (Delhi) 98
etiquette 738–9 Mortenepus, Khoja 172 Rani Rupmati’s Mosque
Ajanta Caves 484 Mosques (Ahmedabad) 414
Alchi Monastery (Ladakh) 9, 13, 148– etiquette 738 Rani Sipri’s Mosque (Ahmedabad)
50 Adhai-Din-ka-Jhonpra (Ajmer) 11, 380 414
Bardhan Monastery (Ladakh) 155 Adina Mosque (Pandua) 297 Ratanbai Mosque (Jamnagar) 431
Basgo Monastery (Ladakh) 142 Ahmed Shah’s Mosque (Ahmedabad) Safa Mosque (Belgaum) 538
Bhutanese Monastery (Bodh Gaya) 414 Safa Shahouri Mosque (Ponda) 506
226 Akbari Mosque (Amber) 370 Shah Bazaar Mosque (Gulbarga) 548
Bhutia Busty Monastery (Darjeeling) architecture 25 Sher Shah Mosque (Penukonda) 686
300, 301 Asafi Mosque (Lucknow) 201 Siddi Saiyad’s Mosque (Ahmedabad)
Chemrey Monastery (Ladakh) 143 Atala Masjid (Jaunpur) 203 414
Drugpa Kardang Gompa (Lahaul) 133 Aurangzeb’s Mosque (Lucknow) 202 Solah Khamba Mosque (Bidar) 25,
Dubdi Monastery (Yuksam) 305 Aurangzeb’s Mosque (Varanasi) 211 549
Enchey Monastery (Gangtok) 302 Babri Masjid (Ayodhya) 61, 164, 203 Sona Mosque (Gaur) 297
Gelugpa Monastery (Rangdum) 154 Begumpuri Mosque (Delhi) 94 Spanish Mosque (Secunderabad) 668
Guru Ghantal Gompa (Lahaul) 133 Cheraman Mosque (Kodungallur) 653 Sunehri Bagh (Delhi) 77
Hemis Monastery (Ladakh) 13, 144, 157 Damri Masjid (Ahmadnagar) 477 Sunehri Masjid (Delhi) 88
Indus Valley 142–3 Gyan Vapi Mosque (Varanasi) 212 Taj-ul-Masjid (Bhopal) 244
Karsha Monastery (Ladakh) 155 Haji Ali Mosque (Mumbai) 463 Tantipara Mosque (Gaur) 297
Key Monastery (Spiti) 134, 136–7 Hazratbal Mosque (Srinagar) 158 Taramati Baradari (Golconda) 671
Kungri Monastery (Spiti) 134 Jama Masjid (Agra) 172 Thouseand Lights Mosque (Chennai)
Labrang Monastery (Sikkim) 304 Jama Masjid (Ahmadnagar) 477 571
Lalung Monastery 135 Jama Masjid (Ahmedabad) 414 Ujra Mosque (Kavaratti Island) 650
Lamayuru Monastery (Ladakh) 142 Jama Masjid (Aurangabad) 14, 478 Wallajah (Big) Mosque (Chennai)
Likir Monastery (Ladakh) 142 Jama Masjid (Bhopal) 244 574
Matho Monastery (Ladakh) 143, 144 Jama Masjid (Bijapur) 546 Mosquitoes 743
Monastery 51 (Sanchi) 246 Jama Masjid (Champaner) 424 The Mother (Mirra Alfassa) 592, 593
Nalanda 223 Jama Masjid (Chanderi) 237 Mother House (Kolkata) 282
Namgyal Monastery (Dharamsala) Jama Masjid (Delhi) 8, 10, 73, 89, 90 Mother Teresa 282, 283
126 Jama Masjid (Fatrehpur Sikri) 187 Motorcycles 759
Nechung Monastery (Dharamsala) 12, Jama Masjid (Golconad) 670 Moubray, George 575
126 Jama Masjid (Gulbarga) 548 Mount Abu 49, 398
Pemayangtse Monastery (Pelling) Jama Masjid (Hyderabad) 667 Mount Harriet National Park 623
305 Jama Masjid (Jaipur) 359 Mount of St Thomas (Chennai) 577
Phiyang Monastery (Ladakh) 141 Jama Masjid (Jaunpur) 203 Mountain biking 119
Phodong Monastery (Sikkim) 304 Jama Masjid (Junagadh) 430 Mountaineering 119, 728, 731
Phugtal Monastery (Ladakh) 155, 156 Jama Masjid (Lucknow) 202 Mountbatten, Lady Edwina 92
Ri-dzong Monastery (Ladakh) 142 Jama Masjid (Mandu) 251 Mountbatten, Lord 92
Rumtek Monastery (Sikkim) 302 Jama Masjid (Mathura) 182 Mrigasira (Hyderabad) 673
Samstangling 147 Jama Masjid (Srirangapattana) 521 Mudabidri 529
760-787_EW_India.indd 774 26/04/17 11:50 am
Eyewitness Travel LAYERS PRINTED:
Index template “UK” LAYER
(Source v1)
Date 6th September 2012
Size 125mm x 217mm

GENER AL INDEX  775


Mudumalai Wildlife Sanctuary 608–9 Museums and galleries (cont.) Museums and galleries (cont.)
hotels 702 Archaeological Museum (Halebid) Government Museum Complex
Mughal Empire 54–5 527 (Chennai) 9, 17, 568–9
decline of 56 Archaeological Museum (Hampi) 536, Hazarduari Museum (Murshidabad)
rise of 53 537 296–7
Muhammad Adil Shah 547 Archaeological Museum (Jaipur) 357 House of Vijayanath Shennoy
Muhammad bin Tughluq 52, 94, 95, 99, Archaeological Museum (Jhansi) (Manipal) 529
479 199 Indian Museum (Kolkata) 280–81
Muhammad of Ghur 52, 96, 97 Archaeological Museum (Khajuraho) Indira Gandhi Rashtriya Manav
Muhammad Quli Qutb Shah 665, 666, 242 Sangrahalaya (Museum of Man)
669, 671 Archaeological Museum (Khiching) (Bhopal) 245
Muhammad Shah, Tomb of 83 325 Jai Vilas Palace Museum (Gwalior) 232
Muharram 201, 669, 673 Archaeological Museum (Konark) 316 Jalan Museum (Patna) 219
Muir College (Allahabad) 214 Archaeological Museum (Lothal) 420 Jawahar Kala Kendra (Jaipur) 11, 364
Mujaddad-al-Saini 107 Archaeological Museum Jawaharlal Nehru Museum (Itanagar)
Mukhalingam 675 (Mamallapuram) 583 337
Mukteshwar 194 Archaeological Museum Jehangir Art Gallery (Mumbai) 453
Mukurthi 610 (Nagarjunakonda) 680 Kirti Mandir Museum (Porbandar) 430
Mulbekh 151 Archaeological Museum (Old Goa) 501, Kumrahar (Patna) 219
Mullaperiyar Dam 644 504–5 Kuthiramalika Palace Museum
Mumbai 440, 446–67 Archaeological Museum (Sanchi) 247 (Thiruvananthapuram) 631
1 Week in Mumbai and Maharashtra 8, Archaeological Museum (Sarnath) Lakhota Fort Museum (Jamnagar) 431
14 212 Maharaja Fateh Singh Museum
airport 749 Art Gallery (Patiala) 106 (Vadodara) 422–3
climate 42 Art Museum (Tirupati) 682 Mehrangarh Fort Museum (Jodhpur)
festivals 38, 41, 477 Ashutosh Museum (Kolkata) 276 386–8
getting around 449 Asiatic Society Museum (Kolkata) 280 Museum and Art Gallery
history 53 Baripada Museum 324 (Chandigarh) 104–5
hotels 700 Barton Museum (Bhavnagar) 426 Museum of Entomology (Shillong)
Kala Ghoda street-by-street 452–3 Bharat Bhavan (Bhopal) 244 338
map 448–9 Bharat Kala Bhavan Museum Museum of Kangra Art (Dharamsala)
Mumbai & Environs map 21 (Varanasi) 212 12, 126
restaurants 714–15 Bhuri Singh Museum (Chamba) 129 National Art Gallery (Chennai) 569
shopping & entertainment 466–7 Birla Archaeological Museum National Gallery of Modern Art (Delhi)
Mumbai Point (Mahabaleshwar) 473 (Hyderabad) 668 79
Mumbai Port Trust 461 Birla Museum (Bhopal) 245 National Gallery of Modern Art
Mumbai University 26 Bronze Gallery (Chennai) 569 (Mumbai) 451, 453
Mumtaz Mahal 176 Calico Museum (Ahmedabad) 415, National Ghandi Museum (Delhi) 91
Munda people 229 416–17 National Museum (Delhi) 10, 80–81
Munde Pahar Beach (Chidiya Tapu) 626 Central Sikh Museum (Amritsar) 108 National Rail Museum (Delhi) 93
Munger 221 Chamarajendra Art Gallery (Mysuru) Natural History Museum
Municipal Corporation Building 15, 522 (Thiruvananthapuram) 630
(Mumbai) 457 Chhatrapati Shivaji Maharaj Vastu Nehru Centre (Indore) 250
Munnar 9, 16, 652 Sangrahalaya (Mumbai) 8, 14, 26, 451, Nehru Memorial Museum and Library
hotels 703 453, 454–5 (Delhi) 82
restaurants 719 City Palace Museum (Alwar) 374 Nizam’s Museum (Hyderabad) 664
Munro, Sir Thomas 571 City Palace Museum (Jaipur) 11, 360– Odisha State Museum (Bhubaneswar)
Murshid Quli Khan 296 61 311
Murshidabad 296–7 City Palace Museum (Udaipur) 404 Patna Museum 218
Murud-Janira 470 Contemporary Art Gallery (Chennai) Pazhassirajah Museum (Kozhikode)
Musamman Burj (Agra Fort) 175 569 657
Museums and galleries Crafts Museum (Delhi) 10, 84–5, 730 Picture Gallery (Lucknow) 202
Ajmer Government Museum 380 Daria Daulat Bagh Museum Pilar Museum 506
Albert Hall Museum (Jaipur) 357 (Srirangapattana) 521 Puducherry Museum 17, 591, 592
Allahabad Museum 214 Durbar Hall Museum (Junagadh) Rabindra Bharati Museum (Kolkata)
Amar Mahal Museum (Jammu) 158 430 284
Anthropological Museum (Port Blair) Fateh Prakash Museum (Chittorgarh) Raja Dinkar Kelkar Museum (Pune)
622, 623 407 14, 474
Archaeological Museum (Alampur) Fisheries Museum (Port Blair) 622, Rajaraja Museum and Art Gallery
681 623 (Thanjavur) 600, 601
Archaeological Museum (Amravati) Folk Arts Museum (Bhuj) 432 Ranchi Museum 229
679 Folklore Museum (Mysuru) 523 Rani Durgavati Museum (Jabalpur)
Archaeological Museum (Badami) Fort Museum (Chennai) 565 256
541 Government Arts and Crafts (Napier) Rao Madho Singh Museum (Kota)
Archaeological Museum (Bodh Gaya) Museum (Thiruvananthapuram) 16, 407
226 630 Ratnagiri Archaeological Museum
Archaeological Museum Government Museum (Bengaluru) 15, 322, 323
(Gangaikondacholapuram) 596 516–17 Roerich Art Gallery (Naggar) 13, 132
Archaeological Museum (Golconda) Government Museum (Chitradurga) Royal Museum (Thanjavur) 600–601
670 531 Salarjung Museum (Hyderabad) 664
Archaeological Museum (Gwalior Government Museum (Mathura) Samudrika Marine Museum (Port
Fort) 233 182–3 Blair) 622, 623
760-787_EW_India.indd 775 26/04/17 11:50 am

776  GENER AL INDEX


Museums and galleries (cont.) Nagaur 350, 380 National parks (cont.)
Sanskar Kendra (Ahmedabad) 415 Cattle Fair 348, 375, 380 Great Himalayan National Park 131
Sanskriti Museum (Delhi) 99 hotels 699 Guindy National Park (Chennai) 576–7
Shahaji Chatrapati Museum Nagda 403 Hazaribagh National Park 228
(Kolhapur) 473 Naggar 13, 118, 131, 132 Kanha National Park 256, 258–9
Shri Chitra Art Gallery Nagin Lake 158 Kaziranga National Park 332–3, 334–5
(Thiruvananthapuram) 630 Nagoa 427 Keibul Lamjao National Park 342
State Archaeological Museum Nagore 595 Keoladeo Ghana National Park 372–3
(Hyderabad) 668 Nagpur 486–7 Madhav National Park 237
State Museum (Bharatpur) 371 festivals 477 Marine National Park (Gulf of Kutch)
State Museum (Bhopal) 244–5 hotels 701 431
State Museum (Guwahati) 328–9 restaurants 715 Mount Harriet National Park 623
State Museum (Kohima) 343 Nahan 119 Namdapha National Park 337
State Museum (Lucknow) 202 festivals 117 Nameri National Park 330
State Museum (Panaji) 491 Nahargarh 367 Orang National Park 330
State Museum (Shimla) 12, 114–15 Naidu, Chandrababu 555 Panna National Park 242
Tea Museum (Darjeeling) 300 Nainital 194 Pin Valley National Park 131, 134
Thripunithura Museum 647 hotels 696 Rajaji National Park 190
Tribal Museum (Pune) 474 Nair, Mira 37, 67 Ranthambore National Park 410–11
Vadodara Museum and Picture Nakki Lake (Mount Abu) 398 Sanjay Gandhi National Park 464
Gallery 423 Nako 123 Sariska National Park 375
Venkatappa Art Gallery (Bengaluru) Nal Sarovar Sanctuary 420 Sasan Gir National Park 427
15, 517 Nalabana Island (Chilika Lake) 320 Silent Valley National Park 656
Venkateshvara Museum of Temple Nalagarh 117 Simlipal National Park 324–5
Arts (Tirupati) 682 Nalanda 47, 165, 222–3 Sunderbans National Park 292
Vichitra Museum (Shantiniketan) 296 Naldehra 116 Valley of Flowers National Park 191,
Victoria Memorial (Kolkata) 278–9 Namdapha National Park 337 193
Victoria Museum (Vijayawada) 678 Nameri National Park 330 Van Vihar National Park (Bhopal) 245
Vishala Complex (near Ahmedabad) Namgyal dynasty 144 Velavadar National Park 426
415 Namgyal Institute of Tibetology Wandoor Marine National Park 624–5
Watson Museum (Rajkot) 431 (Gangtok) 302 National Rail Museum (Delhi) 93
Music Nana Sahib 199 National School of Drama (Delhi) 79
Carnatic 599 Nanak, Guru 53, 105 Natya Shastra 32, 33
Chennai 578–9 Nanda Devi 68–9, 193, 194 Naubat Khana (Fatehpur Sikri) 186
Chola 51 Nanda Devi Sanctuary 191, 193 Nauchandi Mela (Meerut) 39
classical music and dance 32–3, 724 Nanda dynasty 46 Naukuchiya Tal 194
courses 730 Napier, Lord John 612, 630 Naval Sagar Lake (Bundi) 408
Delhi 100–101 Naqqar Khana (Red Fort, Delhi) 90 Navaratri Gollu 593
folk 724–5 Narasimha Monolith (Hampi) 534 Navrati 425
Indipop 725 Narasimha Shrine (Melkote) 526 Nawalgarh 377
Kolkata 287 Narasimha Varman I 49, 582, 585 Nayak, Venkatadri 564
Mumbai 466–7 Narasimhadeva I 314 Nayaka dynasty 589, 600, 601, 612, 617
shops 286, 287 Narayanpur 672 Nayannars 49
see also Festivals Narcotics 740 Nehru, Pandit Jawaharlal 60, 61, 164,
Muslim League 60 Nariman Point (Mumbai) 462 214
Mussoorie 190 Narkanda 117 Chandigarh 105
restaurants 709 Narmada Dam 254 Nehru Memorial Museum and Library
Muthialu Nayaka 589 Narmada Parikrama 255 (Delhi) 82
Muzhapilangad Beach (near Kannur) Narmada River 165, 255, 256 Nehru Institute of Mountaineering
659 Narthamalai 605 (Uttarkashi) 191
Mylapore (Chennai) 561, 574, 577 Nasik 478 Nehru Planetarium (Delhi) 82
Mylliem 339 restaurants 715 Nehru Trophy Boat Race (Kerala) 40, 637
Mysore Wars 521 Nataraja 570 Neil Island 626
Mysuru 15, 522–3, 532–3 Nathdwara 403 Neo-Classical style 26
festivals 521 National Archives (Delhi) 76, 78 Nepal 265
hotels 702 National Centre for Performing Arts Netarhat 228
restaurants 717 (Mumbai) 462 Neville House (Mumbai) 461
Mythology, Hindu 28–9 National Defence Academy 474 New Delhi
National Gallery of Modern Art (Delhi) architecture 26, 59, 66, 73
N 79 see also Delhi
Nabadwip 295 National holidays 39 New Jalpaiguri 298
Nadir Shah 56, 88, 91, 106 National Library (Kolkata) 282–3 New Seminary (Pilar) 506
Naga Panchami 477 National Movement 60 New Wave Cinema 37
Naga tribe 341, 343 National Museum (Delhi) 10, 80–81 Newspapers 747
Nagaland 265, 327, 341, 343 National parks Nicobar Islands
see also Assam & the Northeast accommodation 692, 693 indigenous tribes 627
Nagapattinam 595 Bandhavgarh National Park 230, 243, map 21
Nagar Chowk (Mumbai) 460 256 Nightlife
Nagarhole Wildlife Sanctuary 524, Corbett National Park 196–7 Kolkata 287
608 Desert National Park 394 Mumbai 467
hotels 702 Dudhwa National Park 198 Nilgiri Biosphere Reserve 524, 608, 656,
Nagarjunakonda 680 Eravikulam National Park 653 658
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Eyewitness Travel LAYERS PRINTED:
Index template “UK” LAYER
(Source v1)
Date 6th September 2012
Size 125mm x 217mm

GENER AL INDEX  777


Nilgiri Hills Osian 388 Palaces (cont.)
hiking in the 610 Osman Ali Khan 664 Feroze Shah Kotla (Delhi) 91
Todas 611 Osmania General Hospital (Hyderabad) Gagan Mahal (Penukonda) 686
Tour of the 608–9 664–5 Garh Palace (Bundi) 408
Nilhat House (Kolkata) 276 Ourem Creek (Panaji) 493 Gujari Mahal (Gwalior Fort) 233
“Nine jewels” 54 Outdoor activities 726–31 Hawa Mahal (Bikaner) 382
Nirmal Hridaya (Kolkata) 283 Himachal Pradesh 119 Hawa Mahal (Jaipur) 8, 11, 356–7, 359
Nisargadhama 525 Ladakh & Zanskar 156 Hazarduari (Murshidabad) 296–7
Nishagandhi Dance Festival West Bengal & Sikkim 307 Hill Palace (Thripunithura) 647
(Thiruvananthapuram) 38 Oval Maidan (Mumbai) 462 Hindola Mahal (Mandu) 251
Nishi tribe 262, 336–7 Oxinden, Sir George 424 Jag Mandir (Kota) 407
Nizam-ul-Mulk 664 Ozran (Vagator) 496 Jag Mandir (Udaipur) 402
Nizams of Hyderabad 664, 669 Jag Niwas (Udaipur) 402
Nizamuddin Auliya, Sheikh Hazrat 53, P Jaganmohan Palace (Mysuru) 522
86, 99 Pachisi Court (Fatehpur Sikri) 184, 186 Jagatjit Palace (Kapurthala) 108
Nizamuddin Complex (Delhi) 10, 86 Pachmarhi 256 Jahangir Mahal (Orchha) 238–9
Non-alignment policy 61 Package tours 756 Jahangiri Mahal (Agra Fort) 174
Non-cooperation movement 60 Paddy fields 442 Jahaz Mahal (Mandu) 251, 252–3
Norbulingka Institute (Dharamsala) 12, Padmanabhapuram Palace 9, 634–5 Jai Vilas Palace (Gwalior) 232
126, 730, 731 Padmasambhava, Guru 124, 133, 135, Jal Mahal (near Jaipur) 11, 367
Noronha, Don Alfonso de 494 143, 144, 155 Jhanki Mahal (Mehrangarh Fort,
North Andaman 627 Tashiding Monastery 305 Jodhpur) 388
North Block (Delhi) 76 Padum 154–5, 156 Jodha Bai’s Palace (Fatehpur Sikri) 186
Nowshar (Leh) 140 Pahalgam 159 Juna Mahal (Dungarpur) 406
NSD Repertory Festival (Delhi) 39 Painting see Art Kaliadeh Palace (near Ujjain) 250
Nubra Valley 68, 152–3 Pakistan 60, 61, 66, 109 Kanakakunnu Palace
hotels 695 Pala dynasty 48, 280, 297, 329 (Thiruvananthapuram) 630
tour 147 Palaces Karan Mahal (Bikaner) 382
Nun-kun massif 151 Aga Khan Palace (Pune) 8, 14, 474 Kareng Ghar (Sivasagar) 336
Nur Jahan 55, 180 Aina Mahal (Bhuj) 432 Koshak Mahal (Chanderi) 237
Nyaya Mandir (Vadodara) 423 Akhand Chandi Palace (Chamba) 128 Kuthiramalika Palace
Amba Vilas Palace (Mysuru) 15, 522–3, (Thiruvananthapuram) 631
O 532–3 Lalgarh Palace (Bikaner) 351, 383
Oberoi Grand (Kolkata) 280, 697 Anand Mahal (Bijapur) 546 Lalitha Mahal Palace (Mysuru) 523
Observatories Anup Mahal (Bikaner) 382 Laxmi Vilas Palace (Vadodara) 422
Jantar Mantar (Delhi) 82 Badal Mahal (Bikaner) 382 Leh Palace 13, 140
Jantar Mantar (Jaipur) 358, 362–3 Badal Mahal (Chanderi) 237 Machchhi Bhavan (Agra Fort) 175
Vedh Shala Observatory (Ujjain) 250 Badal Mahal (Kumbhalgarh) 399 Madhav Vilas Palace (Shivpuri) 237
Ochterlony, Sir David 277 Badal Vilas (Jaisalmer) 390 Man Mandir Palace (Gwalior Fort)
Odhni 35 Bari Mahal (Udaipur) 404–5 232–3
Odisha 264, 265, 308–25 Baz Bahadur’s Palace (Mandu) 251, Marble Palace (Kolkata) 284
festivals 313 252 Mattancherry Palace (Kochi) 16, 646
hotels 698 Bengaluru Palace 517 Moosi Maharani ki Chhatri (Alwar)
map 309 Bhonsle Palace (Nagpur) 486 374
restaurants 711–12 Bijay Mandal (Delhi) 94 Moti Doongri Palace (Jaipur) 11, 364
tribes 325 Bolghatty Palace (Kochi) 647 Moti Mahal (Jaisalmer Fort) 393
Odissi dance 32, 316, 317 Chail Palace 116 Moti Mahal (Mehrangarh Fort,
Olcott, Colonel Henry S 575 Chandra Mahal (Bikaner) 382 Jodhpur) 387, 388
Old Goa 500–505 Chandra Mahal (Jaipur) 361 Moti Mahal (Udaipur) 405
festivals 497 Chandra Mahal (Udaipur) 404 Mubarak Mahal (Jaipur) 360
Old Government Estate (Chennai) 571 Chattar Manzil (Lucknow) 200 Nalagarh 117
Old Opium Warehouse (Patna) 219 Chepauk Palace (Chennai) 572 Nau Mahal (Golconda) 671
Old Secretariat (Panaji) 15, 490 Chettinad Palace (Kanadukathan) 616 Naukonda Palace (Aurangabad) 14,
Olive Ridley turtles 292, 323 Chini Mahal (Dalautabad) 479 478
Omkareshwar 254, 255 City Palace (Alwar) 374 Neelkanth Mahal (Mandu) 253
Onam 633, 636, 637 City Palace (Jaipur) 11, 360–61 Neermahal Water Palace (Rudrasagar
Ooty 609, 610 City Palace (Kota) 407 Lake) 341
hotels 702 City Palace (Udaipur) 2–3, 404–5 New Palace (Kolhapur) 472–3
restaurants 718 Dai ka Mahal (Mandu) 252 Nilambagh Palace (Bhavnagar) 426
Opening hours 736 Dai ki Chhoti Bahen ka Mahal Old Moti Bagh Palace (Patiala) 106
banks 744 (Mandu) 252 Old Palace (Kolhapur) 472, 473
shops 720 Darbargadh Palace (Bhuj) 432 Old Palace (Mandvi) 433
Orang National Park 330 Daria Daulat Bagh (Srirangapattana) Padmanabhapuram Palace 9, 16,
Oraon people 229 521 634–5
Orchha 162, 236, 238–9 Daulat Khana (Lucknow) 202 Padmini’s Palace (Chittorgarh) 407
hotels 697 Daulat Mahal (Sirhind) 106 Paigah Palaces (Secunderabad) 668
restaurants 710 Deeg Water Palace 371 Palace of the Dom Raja (Varanasi) 209
Oriental Research Institute (Mysuru) Dilkhushal Mahal (Udaipur) 405 Phool Mahal (Bikaner) 382
523 Falaknuma Palace (Hyderabad) 665, Phool Mahal (Mehrangarh Fort,
Orissa see Odisha 669 Jodhpur) 386, 388
Osho International Commune (Pune) Fateh Prakash (Udaipur) 404, 405 Qaiser Bagh Palace (Lucknow) 200
14, 474 Fateh Prakash Palace (Chittorgarh) 407 Rai Praveen Mahal (Orchha) 238
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778  GENER AL INDEX


Palaces (cont.) Panamik 147 Parks and gardens (cont.)
Raj Mahal Palace (Jaipur) 364 Panch Mahal (Fatehpur Sikri) 185 Rambagh (Agra) 180
Raja Mahal (Chandragiri) 684 Panch Rathas (Mamallapuram) 17, Rock Garden (Chandigarh) 105
Raja Mahal (Orchha) 238 584–5 Rose Garden (Chandigarh) 104
Rajagarh Palace (near Khajuraho) 242 Panchgani 473, 477 Saheliyon ki Bari (Udaipur) 402
Rajasthan and Gujarat 350–51 Pandava brothers 30, 215, 584 Saramsa Orchidarium (Sikkim) 302
Rajwada Palace (Indore) 250 Pandharpur 487 Sayaji Bagh (Vadodara) 423
Ramalinga Vilas (Ramanathapuram) Pandu Lena 478 Shalimar Gardens (Srinagar) 158
617 Pandua 297 Sikandar Bagh (Lucknow) 200
Rambagh Palace (Jaipur) 364 Pandya dynasty 47, 49, 50, 52, 612 Sippyghat Farm (near Port Blair) 622
Rana Kumbha’s Palace (Chittorgarh) Pang-gong Tso 146 Sisodia Rani ka Bagh (near Jaipur)
350, 406–7 Panhala 473 366–7
Rang Ghar (Sivasagar) 336 Panicker, KCS 568 tea gardens 266–7
Rani Mahal (Chandragiri) 684 Panikhar 151 Theosophical Society gardens
Rani Mahal (Golconda) 671 Panipat 104 (Chennai) 575
Rashtrapati Bhavan (Delhi) 76, 78 festivals 105 Udai Mani Pradhan Nursery
Royal Palace (Thanjavur) 600–601 Panipat, Battles of 44, 53, 56, 104 (Kalimpong) 301
Sardar Vilas (Mehrangarh Fort, Panna Mian ka Kund (Amber) 370 see also National parks
Jodhpur) 388 Panna National Park 242 Parry’s Corner (Chennai) 562, 565
Sariska Palace 375 Parade Ground (Chennai) 564–5 Parsis 413, 447
Sarvottam Vilas (Jaisalmer Fort) 393 Parade Ground (Secunderabad) 668 festivals 39
Sat Mahal (Champaner) 424 Paragliding 119, 132 Mumbai community 451, 462
Sat Manzil (Bijapur) 546 Paramara dynasty 48, 49, 244 Parsvanatha 228
Shambhu Niwas (Udaipur) 405 Parameshvara Varman I 583 Parthians 47
Shaniwar Wada Palace (Pune) 474 Parasailing 728 Partition 60, 66, 73, 109
Shaukat Mahal (Bhopal) 244 Parasnath 228 Parvati 28, 29, 193, 221, 570
Sheesh Mahal (Sirhind) 106–7 Pari Mahal (Srinagar) 159 Parvati Valley 118, 119, 131
Shey Palace 13, 143 Parikrama (Amritsar) 108 Pascoal Organic Spice Village 491
Shiv Niwas (Udaipur) 405 Parks and gardens Pasighat 337
Stok Palace 13, 143 Agri Horticultural Society (Kolkata) Passes
Sukh Niwas Mahal (Bundi) 408 283 air 751
Takhat Mahal (Mehrangarh Fort, Akal Fossil Park (Jaisalmer) 394 rail 753
Jodhpur) 387, 388 Anguri Bagh (Agra Fort) 175 Passports 734
Talatal Ghar (Sivasagar) 336 Anna Park (Chennai) 572 Pataliputra 218, 219
Taleti Mahal (Jodhpur) 384 Aram Bagh (Amber Fort) 370 Patan 421
Thirumalai Nayakar Palace (Madurai) Bagh Rauza (Ahmadnagar) 477 Patanjali 188
612 Baradari Gardens (Patiala) 106 Patiala 106
Tipu Sultan’s Summer Palace Botanical Gardens (Guwahati) 329 Patil, Pratibha 61
(Bengaluru) 6–7, 15, 518 Botanical Gardens (Kolkata) 285 Patkar, Medha 254
Udai Vilas Palace (Dungarpur) 406 Botanical Gardens (Puducherry) 17, 592 Patna 167, 218–19
Ujjayanta Palace (Agartala) 341 Brindavan Gardens (Mysuru) 523 hotels 696
Umaid Bhavan Palace (Jodhpur) 385 Bryant Park (Kodaikanal) 610 map 219
Umaid Mahal (Mehrangarh Fort, Buddha Jayanti Park (Delhi) 93 restaurants 709
Jodhpur) 388 Chashmashahi Gardens (Srinagar) Pattadakal 47, 540, 542–3
Vijay Vilas Palace (Mandvi) 433 158 Paunar 487
Vishram Bagh Wada (Pune) 474 Children’s Park (Guindy National Park) Pavlova, Anna 576
Wankaner Palace (near Rajkot) 351, 576 Pawapuri 224
431 Chitralekha Udyan (Tezpur) 330 Pawaya 236
Zafar Mahal (Delhi) 96 Company Bagh (Alwar) 374 Pax Britannica 58–9
Palai 643 Cubbon Park (Bengaluru) 15, 516 Paying guests 691, 693
Palakkad 656 Dilaram Bagh (Amber Fort) 370 Pazhassi Raja 658
Palamau Wildlife Sanctuary 228 Eden Gardens (Kolkata) 277 Pearl fishing 618
Palampet 673 Hanging Gardens (Mumbai) 463 Peddapuram 676
Palampur 125 Jai Niwas Bagh (Jaipur) 356 Pelling 305
Palani 610 Kesar Kyari Bagh (Amber Fort) 370 Pensi-la 154
Palchan 118 Khusro Bagh (Allahabad) 214 Penukonda 686
Palden Thondup Namgyal 302 Lake Hydari Park (Shillong) 338 Pereira, Antonio Elzario Sant’Anna 512
Pali Hall (Banda, Mumbai) 464 Lalbagh (Bengaluru) 15, 516, 518 Periyar Tiger Reserve 644–5
Palitana 426, 428–9 Lloyds Botanical Gardens (Darjeeling) Permits 734–5
Pallava dynasty 47, 49, 561, 574, 300–301 Garhwal 193
582 Lodi Gardens (Delhi) 10, 83 Northeastern states 265
Kanchipuram 586 Malampuzha Gardens (Palakkad) Sikkim 307
Pallikere Beach (Kasaragod) 660 656 Spiti & Kinnaur 119
Palolem 15, 495, 511 Memorial Garden (Kanpur) 199 Pernem 496–7
restaurants 716 MGR Samadhi (Chennai) 572 Perron, General 173
Pampore 159 Mughal Gardens (Delhi) 78 Personal security 740–41
Panaji 15, 490–93 National Botanical Gardens and Phalodi 383
festivals 497 Research Centre (Lucknow) 200 Phanek 35
hotels 701 Nishat Gardens (Srinagar) 158 Pharmacies 741
Panaji Old Town street-by-street Northern Ridge (Delhi) 92 Phating Pithwar Peak 68
492–3 Orchidarium (Imphal) 342 Photography 737
restaurants 716 Pinjar Gardens (near Chandigarh) 105 fees for 736
760-787_EW_India.indd 778 26/04/17 11:50 am
Eyewitness Travel LAYERS PRINTED:
Index template “UK” LAYER
(Source v1)
Date 6th September 2012
Size 125mm x 217mm

GENER AL INDEX  779


Pichavaram 594 Puducherry (cont.) Rail travel (cont.)
Pietra dura 177, 178, 181 restaurants 718 Railway map of India see back
Pilar 506 street-by-street 590–91 endpaper
Pilar Seminary 506 Pulakeshin II 47, 49 special trains 753
Pillory (Old Goa) 505 The Pundits 190 suburban trains and Metro systems
Pin Valley 134 Pune 14, 474 758–9
trek 119 hotels 701 Rainfall 42–3, 734
Pin Valley National Park 131, 134 restaurants 715 Rainforest, tropical 625
Pindari Glacier 193, 195 Punjab Raisina Hill (Delhi) 78
Pipiting 155 food 71 Raj Bhavan (Chennai) 577
Pipli 313 see also Haryana & Punjab Raj Bhavan (Kolkata) 274
Pippala Watchtower (Rajgir) 224 Puppets Raj Nivas (Puducherry) 591
Pir Panjal Range 159 Karnataka 539 Rajabai Clock Tower (Mumbai) 452
Pius XII, Pope 502 shows 725 Rajagopalachari, C 571, 572, 577
Planters’ Club (Darjeeling) 301 Purana Qila (Delhi) 10, 75, 83, 95 Rajaji Hall (Chennai) 571
Plassey, Battle of 56, 297 Puri 265, 316 Rajaji National Park 190
Pochampalli 672 festivals 265, 313, 318–19 Rajamalla IV 526
Poet-saints, Tamil 49, 52, 53 hotels 698 Rajamundry 676
Point Calimere 595 restaurants 712 Rajaraja Chola I 50, 51, 596, 600, 602
Police 740 Pushkar 11, 381 Rajaraja Chola II 597
Politics 61 hotels 699 Rajasthan 348–9, 354–411
film stars and 555, 571 restaurants 713 festivals 375
Pollilur, Battle of 6–7, 521 street-by-street 378–9 food 352–3
Polo 727, 731 Pushkar Fair 40, 346, 348, 375, 379 hotels 699
Polo, Marco 52, 577, 621, 672 Pushkar Lake 378 landscape and wildlife 22
Ponda 506–7 Puttaparthi 685 restaurants 712–13
Pongal 41, 593 Pykara 608 see also Western India
Ponmudi 633 Rajendra Chola I 50, 51, 596
Poompuhar 595 Q Rajendra Mullick, Raja 284
Pooram Festival 655 Qalandar Shah 104 Rajendra Pol (City Palace, Jaipur) 360
Porbandar 430–31 Qalandar Shah’s Urs (Panipat) 105 Rajghat (Delhi) 91
Porcupine Point (Matheran) 476 Qila Rai Pithora (Delhi) 95, 96 Rajgir 224
Port Blair 622–3 Qila Shikhan (Dalautabad) 479 hotels 696
festivals 41 Queen Mary’s College (Chennai) 573 restaurants 709
hotels 703 Queen Mary’s Library (Agra) 175 Rajiv Chowk see Connaught Place
restaurants 718 Quepem Rajkot 431
Portuguese festivals 497 Rajkumar College (Rajkot) 431
explorers & traders 53, 56 restaurants 716 Rajnikant 571
Goa 441, 489 Querim Beach 495, 497 Rajpath (Delhi) 10, 78, 79
Gujarat 425, 427 Quit India movement 60 Rajputs 48, 54, 56, 348
Kerala 647, 657 Qusdia Begum 244 Rajya Angan Chowk (City Palace,
Mumbai 447 Qutb Complex (Delhi) 72, 98 Udaipur) 404
Postal services 746, 747 Qutb Minar (Delhi) 11, 52, 97, 98 Raksha Bandhan 40
Praça Jorge Barreto (Margao) 508 Qutb Sahib 96 Ram Das, Guru 108
Prakasam Barrage (Vijayawada) 678 Qutb Shahi dynasty 665, 670, 671 Rama 31, 131, 164, 203, 207, 463
Prasanthi Nilayam (Puttaparthi) 685 Qutbuddin Aibak 52, 95, 96, 98 Rama Varma, Raja 655
Pratap, Maharana 399 Qutbuddin Bakhtiyar 96 Ramachandran, MG 571, 572
Pratap Singh, Sawai 357 Ramakrishna Mission (Belur Math)
Pratap Singh of Alwar 374 R 290
Pratithara dynasty 48, 237 Rabari nomads 347, 434–5 Ramakrishna Mission Beach
Prehistory 45 Rabdentse 305 (Visakhapatnam) 674
Presidency College (Chennai) 572 Rabies 743 Ramakrishna Paramhansa 290
Presidency College (Kolkata) 276 Rabindra Bharati University (Kolkata) 284 Ramana Maharishi, Sri 589
Prices Rabindra Bhavan (Delhi) 79 Ramanathapuram 617
air fares 748 Race Course (Kolkata) 277 Ramanuja 49, 526
bus and coach fares 756–7 Rachol 508 Ramappa Cheruvu (Palampet) 673
hotels 690 Rachol Seminary 508 Ramatirtham 675
rail fares 752–3 Radha and Madhava (Varma) 423 Ramayana 30, 31, 40, 47, 131
restaurants 705 Radio 747 Rameshvaram 617
taxis and auto-rickshaws 758 Ragas 32 Ramganga river 196, 197
Prinsep, James 91 Raghoji I 486 Ramgarh (near Jaipur) 367
Pritam Niwas Chowk (City Palace, Rahabi, Ezekiel 647 Ramgarh (near Nainital) 194
Jaipur) 360 Rail travel 752–3 Ramgarh (Shekhawati) 376
Prithvi International Theatre Festival Chhatrapati Shivaji Terminus (Mumbai) Ramilila 207
(Mumbai) 41 449, 458–9 Ramkund (Nasik) 478
Prithvi Theatre (Mumbai) 464 Darjeeling Himalayan Railway (DHR) Ramkunda 395
Prithviraj Chauhan 48, 49, 52, 298, 753 Ramnavami 39
95 Egmore Railway Station (Chennai) Rampur (Himachal Pradesh) 120
Public holidays 39, 736 568 festivals 117
Public transport 758–9 Konkan Railway 441 Rampur (Uttar Pradesh) 198
Puducherry 17, 590–93 Nilgiri Blue Mountain Train 608, 609, Ramtek 486
hotels 703 753 Ranakpur 398–9, 400–401
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780  GENER AL INDEX


Ranchi 229 Rhinoceros, Indian one-horned 332–3, Sagar Island 292, 299
hotels 696 334 Sahastralinga Talav (Patan) 421
restaurants 709 The Ridge (Delhi) 92–3 Sahba, Fariburz 99
Rang Gulal 183 The Ridge (Shimla) 12, 114 Sahil Varman, Raja 128, 129
Rang Mahal (Red Fort, Delhi) 90 Rig Veda 45 Sahyadris
Rangapillai, Ananda 592 Rinchen Zangpo 123, 134, 135, 149, hiking in the 477
Rangat (Middle Andaman) 627 150 see also Western Ghats
Rangdum 154 Rishikesh 166, 188, 189 Sai Baba, Sri Satya 685
Ranikhet 195 festivals 39, 183 Sailing 728
Ranipuram 660 hotels 696 Sailors’ Home (Mumbai) 451
Ranjit Singh, Maharajah 56, 57, 108, 110 restaurants 709 St John’s College (Agra) 172
Ranmal Lake (Jamnagar) 431 Rishikonda Beach (Visakhapatnam) 674 Salabhanjika (Great Stupa, Sanchi) 249
Rann of Kutch 22 Ritchie’s Archipelago (Andaman Islands) Salarjung III 664
Ranthambore National Park 410–11 626–7 Salavat Beg Haveli (Sirhind) 107
Rao, NT Rama 555 River rafting see White-water rafting Salawas 389
Rasas 33 Road names 759 Saligao 494
Rashmoni, Rani 290 Road network 754 Salim Chishti 184, 187
Rashtrakuta dynasty 48, 49, 480 Road signs 755 Salwar-kameez 34
Rashtrapati Bhavan (Delhi) 76, 78 Road travel 754–5 Sam 395
Rath Yatra (Puri) 265, 313, 317, 318–19 Roadside food stalls 705 Samudra Gupta, Emperor 47
Rathore dynasty 348, 385 Robins, Bartholomew 564 San Thomé (Chennai) 561, 574, 577
Ratnagiri 322–3, 470 Rock climbing 728 Sanchi 46, 165, 246–9
Ravana 31, 131 Rock paintings (Bhimbetka) 246 festivals 247
Ray, Satyajit 37, 264, 276 Roe, Sir Thomas 252 Sangam era 554
Raza Library (Rampur) 198 Roerich, Nicholas 105, 132 Sanganer 366
Readymoney, Sir Cowasjee Jehangir Rohet 389 Sanghol 105
456 Rohtang Pass 13, 132 Sangla 123
Readymoney Mansion (Mumbai) 456 Romain Rolland Library (Puducherry) hotels 695
Red Fort (Delhi) 10, 90–91 592 Sangla Valley tour 122–3
Reede, Baron Adriaan van 424 Roman Catholicism 441 Sanjay Gandhi National Park 464
Regal Cinema (Mumbai) 451 Romans 47 Sanjin Burj (Fatehpur Sikri) 186
Reinhardt, Walter 172 Rongali Bihu (Guwahati) 331 Sankey, Richard 516
Reis Magos 494 Rose Festival (Chandigarh) 105 Sankhu 151
Rekong Peo 122–3 Ross Hill (Visakhapatnam) 674 Sansad Bhavan (Delhi) 76, 78
Renuka Fair (Nahan) 117, 119 Ross Island 623 Sansar Chand, Rajah 125
Renuka Lake 117, 119 Roy, Arundhati 254 Sanskrit College (Kolkata) 276
Reo Purgyal 123 Roy, Jamini 79 Sanskriti Museum (Delhi) 99
Republic Day 41, 79 Royal Bombay Yacht Club (Mumbai) Saoras tribe 325
Reserve Bank of India (Mumbai) 460 450 Sapni 123
The Residency (Hyderabad) 668 Royal Centre (Hampi) 15, 537 Sarahan 120–21
The Residency (Lucknow) 200–201 Royal Dasara (Mysuru) 521, 523 hotels 695
Restaurants 704–19 Royal Enclave (Mandu) 251 Saraswati Mahal Library (Thanjavur)
alcohol in 705 Royal Mortuary Baths (Golconda) 671 600
Andaman Islands 718 Rua de Natale (Panaji) 492 Saraswati Puja 299
Andhra Pradesh & Telangana 719 Rudabai 418 Sardar Samand Lake 385
Assam & the Northeast 712 Rudradeva, King 672 Sardar Sarovar Dam 254
Bihar & Jharkhand 709 Rudramadevi, Queen 672 Sarhool 229
Chennai 717 Rules of the road 755 Saris 34
Delhi 706–7 Rumals, Chamba 129 Kanchipuram silk 587
etiquette 704 Rumi Darwaza (Lucknow) 201 Odisha textiles 321
Goa 715–16 Rumtek, hotels 698 shops 286, 287, 578, 579
Haryana & Punjab 707 Rupees 745 Sariska National Park 375
Himachal Pradesh 707 Rupmati 253 Sarnath 212, 225
Karnataka 716–17 Rupmati’s Pavilion (Mandu) 251, 252 festivals 183
Kerala 718–19 Russell, Robert Tor 79 Sasan Gir National Park 427
Kolkata 710–11 Ruttonsee Mulji Drinking Water hotels 700
Ladakh, Jammu & Kashmir 708 Fountain (Mumbai) 460 Sasaram 220
Madhya Pradesh & Chhattisgarh 710 Ryali 676 Sassoon Docks (Mumbai) 451
Maharashtra 715 Sastri, Syama 599
Mumbai 714–15 Saadat Ali Khan I 200 Sat Burnzam Gor (Margao) 509, 510
Odisha 711–12 Sabarimalai 643 Sat Tal 194
paying 705 Sacred architecture 24–5 Satavhana dynasty 46, 47
prices and tipping 705 Saddle Peak (North Andaman) 627 Satluj Gorge 122
Rajasthan 712–13 Safaid Baradari (Lucknow) 200 Satpada Island (Chilika Lake) 320
speciality 704 Safaris 727, 731 Satpula (Delhi) 94
Tamil Nadu 717–18 Safdarjung 93 Sattais Katcheri (Amber Fort) 370
Uttar Pradesh & Uttarakhand Safety 740–43 Saurashtra 431
708–9 Jammu and Kashmir 158 Savantwadi 472
vegetarian 705 travel safety advice 734, 735 Sawai Madhopur, hotels 699
West Bengal & Sikkim 711 trekking 119, 157, 193, 307 Sayajirao Gaekwad III 422
Rewa, Maharaja of 243 Saga Dawa (Gangtok) 299 Sayyid dynasty 52, 83
Rewalsar 12, 124 Sagar Dighi (Gaur) 297 Scandal Point (Shimla) 114
760-787_EW_India.indd 780 26/04/17 11:50 am
Eyewitness Travel LAYERS PRINTED:
Index template “UK” LAYER
(Source v1)
Date 6th September 2012
Size 125mm x 217mm

GENER AL INDEX  781


Schwartz, Frederik Christian 600, 604 Shergil, Amrita 79 Sikkim 265, 302–7
Scindia dynasty 173, 232, 233, 237 Sherwani 35 A Tour of Northern Sikkim 304
Scott, George Gilbert 456 Sherwood College (Nainital) 194 trekking 306–7
Scott, James 456 Sheshadri Iyer Memorial 516 see also West Bengal & Sikkim
Scuba diving & snorkelling 728–9 Shevaroy Hills 608 Silent Valley National Park 656
Andaman Islands 623 Shey 13, 143 Siliguri 298
Lakshadweep Islands 650–51 Shigmotsav (Shigmo) 497 restaurants 711
Scythians 47 Shikar Burj (Bundi) 408 Silk, Kanchipuram 587
Secretariat (Chennai) 564 Shikaras (Srinagar) 159 Silk Route 80, 147
Secretariat (Delhi) 78 Shillong 338 Silverware 100, 101, 722
Sector 17 (Chandigarh) 104 festivals 331 Simao, Julio 504
Secular architecture 26–7 hotels 699 Simlipal National Park 324–5
Secunderabad (Hyderabad) 668 restaurants 712 Sindhu Darshan (Leh) 141
Sela Pass 331 Shillong to Cherrapunji Tour 339 Singalila Ridge 306
Sen, Amartya 61, 276 Shillong Peak 339 Singh, Billy Arjan 198
Senate House (Chennai) 572, 573 Shilpgram 402–3 Singh, Sir Ganga 382–3
Senchal Lake 301 Shimla 9, 12, 67, 113, 114–16 Singh, Gulab 89
Sendra Island (Loktak Lake) 342 festivals 117 Singh, Nain 190
Sengge Namgyal, King 140, 144 history 57 Singla Bazaar 300
Separatist movements 265 hotels 695 Singpho tribe 266
Serfoji II 600, 601 map 115 Sinquerim 495
Seshagirirayar Mandapa (Srirangam) 605 restaurants 707 hotels 701
Seva Kunj (Brindavan) 183 Shipton, Eric 193 restaurants 716
Sevappa Nayaka 600 Shiv Sena Party 440, 469 Siolim, hotels 701
Seven Sisters see Assam & the Northeast Shiva 28–9, 51, 206, 221, 255 Siraj-ud-Daulah 56, 276, 297
Sexually transmitted diseases 743 the cosmic dancer 570 Sirhind 106–7
Shah Jahan 53 Shivaganga Tank (Thanjavur) 600 Siri (Delhi) 94, 95, 101
Agra Fort 174–5 Shivaji (Chhatrapati) 53, 56, 450, 461, Siridao 495
Ajmer 380 475 Sisodia dynasty 348
court of 54–5 Alibag 470 Sisters (Andaman Islands) 626
Jag Mandir (Udaipur) 402 and the Marathas 475 Sita 31
Jama Masjid (Agra) 172 Pune 474 Sittanavasal 605
Jama Masjid (Delhi) 90 Shivakamasundari Shrine Sivasagar 336
Red Fort (Delhi) 90 (Chidambaram) 594 Sivasagar Lake 336
Shahjahanabad (Delhi) 95 Shivalik Hills 113, 119, 124, 190 Skara 141
Taj Mahal 176, 178 Shivpuri 189, 237 Skiing 119, 159, 728
Shah Makhdum Sahib Shrine (Srinagar) Shivratri 38, 117, 247 Skinner, Colonel James 92
158 Shopping 720–23 Sleeman, Colonel William 256
Shah Najaf Imambara (Lucknow) 200 bargaining 720 Smith, John 483
Shah Nazar Khan 172 Chennai 571, 578, 579 Smoking 739
Shahi Bridge (Jaunpur) 203 craft centres 721 Snake boat races 637
Shahid Bhagat Singh Marg (Mumbai) Delhi 100, 101 Snake worship 636
460 department stores and boutiques 721 Snorkelling see Scuba diving &
Shahid Minar (Kolkata) 277 government emporia 721 snorkelling
Shahjahanabad (Delhi) 88, 95 how to pay 720 Snow leopards 69, 134, 193
Shahji II 600 Kolkata 286, 287 Snow View (Nainital) 194
Shailodbhava dynasty 310 Mumbai 466, 467 Solang Valley 119, 132
Shakas 47 opening hours 720 Solanki dynasty 48, 49, 52, 349, 422
Shankar, Ravi 32 rights and refunds 720 Som (Moon God) 427
Shankaracharya, Adi 48, 49, 191, 531, specialist stores 721 Somavamshi dynasty 310
586, 652 touts 720–21 Somnath 427
Shankarlal Sangeet Sammelan (Delhi) what to buy in India 722–3 Somnathpur 520
38 see also Bazaars and markets Sonepur 165, 220
Shantiniketan 296 Shri Ram Centre (Delhi) 79, 101 Sonepur Mela 220, 229
hotels 698 Shrine of the Nine Planets (Sun Temple, South Andaman 622–6
Sharad Utsav pichhwai 416 Konark) 316 South Block (Delhi) 76
Sharqi dynasty 52, 203 Shrines, sacred serpent 636 South India 550–687
Shatrunjaya Hill (Palitana) 426, 428–9 Shrirampur 291 Andaman Islands 620–27
Shawls 100, 101 Shunga dynasty 46 Andhra Pradesh & Telangana 662–87
Kulu 130 Shyama Raya Temple (Bishnupur) 294–5 Chennai 560–79
Shayok-Nubra confluence 147 Siang river 262 food 558–9
Sheesh Mahal (Agra Fort) 175 Siddhartha, Gautama 46, 225, 226, 227 getting around 553
Sheesh Mahal (Amber Fort) 368 Siddhpur 421 hotels 702–3
Sheesh Mahal (Golden Temple, Sikander Lodi, Tomb of 83 Kerala 628–61
Amritsar) 110 Sikandra 182 map 552–3
Sheesh Mahals 351 Sikar 377 portrait of 554–5
Shekhawati 376 Sikh terrorists 61 restaurants 717–19
A Tour of Shekhawati 377 Sikhism 107 Tamil Nadu 580–619
hotels 699 foundation of 53 temple towns 556–7
Sher Mandal (Delhi) 83 Sikh state 56 Southeast Ladakh 146
Sher Shah Suri 53, 83, 91, 95, 219 see also Festivals; Gurdwaras; Temples, Southwestern India 436–549
Mausoleum (Sasaram) 220 Sikh food 444–5
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782  GENER AL INDEX


Southwestern India (cont.) Stupas (cont.) Tamil Nadu (cont.)
getting around 438 Vishwa Shanti Stupa (Vaishali) 221 restaurants 717–18
Goa 488–513 Votive Stupas (Nalanda) 222 see also Chennai
hotels 700–702 Sualkuchi 329 Tamil separatists 61
Karnataka 514–49 Subhadra 317 Tangra (Kolkata) 284
Konkan Coast 442–3 Subramanyam Shrine (Chidambaram) Tansen 54, 232
Maharashtra 468–87 594 Tansen Music Festival (Gwalior) 247
map 438–9 Suchindram 619 Tanur 657
Mumbai 446–67 Sufism 52, 53, 86 Taptapani 320, 325
portrait of 440–41 festivals 38–9, 229 Tara 145, 148
restaurants 714–17 Sukhna Lake (Chandigarh) 105 Taragram 236
Spangmik 146 Sullivan, John 611 Tarangambadi 595
Specialist holidays 726–31 Sultan’s Battery (Mangaluru) 529 Tarnetar Fair 349, 425
Spectator sports 726 Sulthan Bathery (near Kalpetta) 658 Tashi Namgyal, King 140, 143
Spices, shopping for 721 Summer 39 Tashiding Monastery 305
Spiti 113, 119, 133–5 Summer Festival (Shimla/Dharamsala) Tata, Sir Jamshedji 229, 450
Spituk 157 117 Tata Iron and Steel Company 229
Sports 726–9, 731 The Sunderbans 292–3 Tawang Monastery 326, 331
spectator 726 hotels 698 Taxes, hotels 690
Spring 38–9 Sunderbans National Park 292 Taxis 754, 755, 758
Sravana Belgola 48, 49, 526 Sunehra Makan (Fatehpur Sikri) 186 to/from airport 749, 751
Sree Narayana Guru, Memorial of Sunehri Kothi (Tonk) 408 Taylor, General 246
(Varkala) 632 Sunshine 42–3 Tea
Sri Akal Takhat Sahib (Amritsar) 108–9, Suraj Mal, Raja 371 Assam 265
111 Suraj Pol (Amber Fort) 370 Happy Valley Tea Estate (Darjeeling)
Sri Kalahasti 588, 684–5 Surajkund 104 301
Srikakulam District 675 Surajkund Crafts Mela 105 Munnar area 652
Srikand Range 120 Surajpal, King 104 Nilhat House (Kolkata) 276
Srinagar 64, 158–9 Surat 349, 424–5 shopping for 721
festivals 141 Suru Valley 151 Tea estates 267
hotels 695–6 Survey of India 190 Tea Museum (Darjeeling) 300
restaurants 708 Surya 28 The Story of Indian Tea 266–7
Sringeri 531 Swamimalai 597 Teej 375
Srirangam 556, 605 Swastika Chaitya (Nagarjunakonda) Teen Darwaza (Ahmedabad) 414
Srirangapattana 520–21 680 Teen Murti Bhavan (Delhi) 82
Srisailam 681 Swathi Thirunal Balarama Varma, Raja Teen Murti Memorial (Delhi) 82
Startsapuk Tso 146 631 Tegh Bahadur, Guru 88
State of Emergency 61 Sweet shops (Kolkata) 286, 287 Tehri Garhwal, hotels 696
State Legislative Assembly (Hyderabad) Sweetmeats Street (Kozhikode) 657 Telangana see Andhra Pradesh &
668 Swimming 726 Telangana
State Museum (Shimla) 12, 114–15 Swine flu 743 Telephone services 746, 747
Stein, Sir Aurel 80 Synagogues Telescope House (Kodaikanal) 610
Stepwells Kenneseth Ellyahoo Synagogue Television 747
Adalaj Vav (Gujarat) 418–19 (Mumbai) 453 Temperatures 42–3, 734
Ambarpur Vav (Gujarat) 419 Paradesi Synagogue (Kochi) 16, Temple towns 556–7
Dada Harir Vav (Ahmedabad) 415, 419 646–7 Temples, Buddhist
Hampi 535 Dukhang (Alchi Monastery) 13, 149,
Rajon ki Baoli (Delhi) 97 T 150
Rani ni Vav (Patan) 419, 421 Tabo Monastery (Spiti) 135 Gompa Buddhist Temple (Ziro) 337
Rani-ki-Baori (Bundi) 408 Tagore, Debendranath 296 Japanese Temple (Bodh Gaya) 226
Stevens, Charles 451 Tagore, Dwarkanath 284 Kanch Mandir (Indore) 250
Stevens, Frederick William 451, 458, 460 Tagore, Rabindranath 60, 79, 264, 296 Lhakhang Soma (Alchi Monastery) 148,
Stilwell, General Joseph 337 Jorasanko (Kolkata) 271, 284 150
Stok 13, 143 Taj Mahal (Agra) 8, 11, 160–61, 176–9 Lotsawa Lhakhang (Alchi Monastery)
Stomach upsets 742 architecture 25, 55 150
Stone Age 45 building of 53 Mahabodhi Temple (Bodh Gaya) 226,
Stoneware 722 decorative elements 178–9 227
Stupas 24 Taj Mahal Palace (Mumbai) 14, 450, 700 Manjushri Lhakhang (Alchi Monastery)
Amravati 47 Taj Mahotsava (Agra) 183 148, 150
Bodhishri Chaitya (Nagarjunakonda) Taju, Sheikh 409 Nalanda 222–3
680 Takhti-i-Kirmani (Bidar) 549 Sumtsek (Alchi Monastery) 13, 148, 150
Dhamekh Stupa (Sarnath) 212 Talaagi Darwaza (Delhi) 83 Temple 17 (Sanchi) 246
Great Stupa (Sanchi) 46, 164, 246, Talakad 520 Thai Temple (Bodh Gaya) 226
248–9 Talakaveri 525 Tsuglakhang Temple (Dharamsala) 126
Maha Chaitya (Amravati) 679 Tambdi Surla 507 see also Caves; Monasteries; Stupas
Maha Chaitya (Nagarjunakonda) 680 Tamil culture 554 Temples, Hindu
Nagarjunakonda 47 Tamil Nadu 554–5, 580–619 architecture 24–5
Shanti Stupa (Dauli) 313 1 Week in Tamil Nadu 9, 17 etiquette 738–9
Shanti Stupa (Leh) 13, 140 festivals 593 Adikumbheshvara Temple
Simha Vihara 4 (Nagarjunakonda) 680 food 558–9 (Kumbakonam) 597
Stupas 2 and 3 (Sanchi) 246–7 hotels 702–3 Ahilyeshwar Temple (Maheshwar)
Vishwa Shanti Stupa (Rajgir) 224 map 581 254
760-787_EW_India.indd 782 26/04/17 11:50 am
Eyewitness Travel LAYERS PRINTED:
Index template “UK” LAYER
(Source v1)
Date 6th September 2012
Size 125mm x 217mm

GENER AL INDEX  783


Temples, Buddhist (cont.) Temples, Buddhist (cont.) Temples, Buddhist (cont.)
Aihole 47 Gana Puram temples 673 Kapaleswarar Temple (Mylapore,
Airavateshvara Temple (Darasuram) Ganesha Ratha (Mamallapuram) 583 Chennai) 561, 574
597 Gaudar Gudi (Aihole) 544 Karni Mata Temple (Deshok) 383
Alagarkoil Temple 613 Gaumukh Temple (Mount Abu) 398 Kashi Vishvanatha Temple
Amaralingeswara Swamy Temple Gavi Gangadhareshvara Temple (Pattadakal) 542
(near Amravati) 679 (Bengaluru) 518 Kashivishvanatha Temple
Anantha Padmanabhaswamy Temple Gopal Temple (Ujjain) 250 (Kumbakonam) 597
(Thiruvananthapuram) 630–31 Govind Dev Temple (Jaipur) 356 Keshava Temple (Somnathpur) 520,
Ananthapura Temple (Kasaragod) Govindaji Temple (Imphal) 342 528
660 Govindarajaswamy Temple (Tirupati) Keshta Raya (Jor Bangla) Temple
Arunchaleshvara Temple 682 (Bishnupur) 295
(Tiruvannamalai) 588, 589 Govindeoji Temple (Brindavan) 183 Khajuraho 48, 234–5, 240–42
Avantipora 159 Grishneshvara Temple (near Ellora) Khetapai Naryan Temple (Bhaktal)
Ayyapa temple (Sabarimalai) 643 482 530
Badami 47 Hadimba Temple (Manali) 13, 132 Kodandarama Temple (Hampi) 536
Baidyanath Dham (Deoghar) 221 Hanuman Garhi Temple (Ayodhya) Koodal Alagar Temple (Madurai) 612
Balabrahma Temple (Alampur) 681 203 Krishna Temple (Hampi) 534, 537
Banke Bihari Temple (Brindavan) 183 Hatakesvara Temple (Srisailam) 681 Krishna Temple (Mahabaleshwar) 473
Basheshwar Mahadev Temple (Kullu) Hazara Rama Temple (Hampi) 15, 537 Krishna Temple (Udipi) 529
130 Hoysaleshvara Temple (Halebid) 527 Kumari Amman Temple
Bhagavati Temple (Kodungallur) 653 Hucchimalli Gudi (Aihole) 544 (Kanniyakumari) 619
Bhagavati Temple (Pernem) 496–7 ISKCON Temple (Brindavan) 183 Kumbha Shyam Temple (Chittorgarh)
Bhandeshwar Temple (Bikaner) 383 Jabreshwar Mahadev (Mumbai) 463 407
Bhattiani Rani Temple (Jaisalmer) 394 Jagannath Temple (Baripada) 324 Kunti Group (Aihole) 544
Bhimakali Temple (Sarahan) 120–21 Jagannath Temple (Puri) 48, 49, 316, Kurunji Andavar Temple (Kodaikanal)
Bhitargaon 199 317 610
Bhojesh-war Temple (Bhojpur) 246 Jagannath Temple (Ranchi) 229 Ladkhan Temple (Aihole) 544
Bhutanatha Temple (Badami) 541 Jagannathi Devi Temple (Bekhli) 13, Lakshman Temple (Khajuraho) 242
Bijli Mahadev Temple (Kullu) 130 130 Lakshmi Narayan Mandir (Delhi) 82
Brahma Temple (Pushkar) 378 Jagat Shiromani Temple (Amber) 370 Lakshmi Narayan Temple (Chamba)
Brahmapurishvara Temple Jagdish Mandir (Udaipur) 402 129
(Pullamangai) 598 Jageshwar 194–5 Lakshmi Narayan Temple (Jaipur) 364
Brajeshwari Devi Temple (Kangra) 125 Jakhu Hill Temple (Shimla) 12, 115 Lakshmi Narayan Temple (Orchha)
Brihadishvara Temple Jalakanteshvara Temple (Vellore) 588 238
(Gangaikondacholapuram) 596 Jambukeshvara Temple (Srirangam) Lingaraj Temple (Bhubaneswar) 310
Brihadishvara Temple (Thanjavur) 24, 605 Madan Kamdev (Hajo) 329
51, 602–3 Jambulinga Temple (Badami) 541 Madan Mohan Temple (Bishnupur)
Buro Shiva Temple (Kolkata) 285 Jambulinga Temple (Pattadakal) 542 295
Chamunda Temple (Chamba) 129 Janardhana Swamy Temple (Varkala) Madan Mohan Temple (Brindavan)
Chamundeshvari Temple (Mysuru) 16, 632 183
523 Jatashankar Cave Temple (Pachmarhi) Madho Rai Temple (Chamba) 129
Chandra Mauleshwar Temple (near 256 Madhukeshvara Temple
Jhalrapatan) 407 Jugal Kishore Temple (Brindavan) 183 (Mukhalingam) 675
Chatrari Temple (near Chamba) 129 Jwalamukhri Temple (Kangra Valley) Madhur Temple (Kasaragod) 660
Chaturbhuj Temple (Khajuraho) 242 125 Mahabaleshvara Temple (Gokarna)
Chaturbhuj Temple (Orchha) 238 Kadasiddeshvara Temple (Pattadakal) 530
Chaurasi Temple (Bharmour) 129 542 Mahabodhi Temple (Bodh Gaya) 216
Chausath Yogini Temple (Hirapur) 313 Kailasanatha Temple (Ellora) 14, 49, Mahadeva Temple (Viakom) 642
Chausath Yogini Temple (near 480–81 Mahakaleshwar Temple (Ujjain) 250
Jabalpur) 255, 256 Kailasanatha Temple (Kanchipuram) Mahakali Temple (Golconda) 671
Chennakeshava Temple (Belur) 527 17, 586 Mahalaxmi Temple (Mumbai) 14, 463
Chikki Gudi (Aihole) 544 Kala Rama Temple (Nasik) 478 Maheshwar Temple (Sungra) 122
Chintaman Ganesha Temple (Ujjain) Kalahastishvara Temple (Sri Kalahasti) Mahishasuramardini Cave Temple
250 684–5 (Mamallapuram) 582–3
Chitai Temple (Almora) 194 Kali Temple (Kalighat, Kolkata) 283 Maladevi Temple (Gyaraspur) 247
Chola temple (Titibhuvanam) 597 Kali Temple (Patiala) 106 Mallegitti Shivalaya Temple (Badami)
Chottanikkara Temple (near Kalijai Temple (Chilika Lake) 320 541
Ernakulam) 647 Kalika Mata Temple (Chittorgarh) 407 Mallikarjuna Swamy Temple
Da Parbatia Temple (Tezpur) 330 Kalill Temple (near Kaladi) 652 (Srisailam) 681
Dakshineshwar temples 290 Kamakhya Temple (Guwahati) 328 Mallikarjuna Temple (Pattadakal)
Darasuram 50–51, 597 Kamakshi Temple (Kanchipuram) 17, 542–3
Dasavatara Temple (Deogarh) 28–9, 586 Manakula Vinayakar Temple
237 Kanaka Durga Temple (Vijayawada) (Puducherry) 591
Durga Temple (Aihole) 544, 545 678 Mangaladevi Temple (near Thekkady)
Durgiana Temple (Amritsar) 109 Kanchipuram 49, 586 645
Dwarkadhish Temple (Dwarka) 431 Kandariya Mahadev Temple Manjunath Temple (Mangaluru) 529
Ekambareshvara Temple (Khajuraho) 24, 240–41 Mannarsala temples 636
(Kanchipuram) 17, 586, 588 Kannappa Temple (Sri Kalahasti) Mansa Devi Temple (Hardiwar) 188
Elephanta cave temples (Mumbai) 465 685 Martand 159
Galaganatha Temple (Pattadakal) 542 Kanthimathi Nellaiyappar Temple Matangeshwar Temple (Khajuraho)
Galta Kund (near Jaipur) 366 (Tirunelvelli) 618 242
760-787_EW_India.indd 783 26/04/17 11:50 am

784  GENER AL INDEX


Temples, Buddhist (cont.) Temples, Buddhist (cont.) Temples, Buddhist (cont.)
Meerabai Temple (Chittorgarh) 407 Sarangapani Temple (Kumbakonam) Trimbakeshwar Temple (near Nasik)
Meguti Temple (Aihole) 544 580, 597 478
Meruga Maruthamalai Temple Sethanighat Temple (Hoshangabad) Trimurti Cave Temple
(Coimbatore) 609 255 (Mamallapuram) 583
Minakshi Sundareshvara Temple Shantadurga Temple (Ponda) 506 Tripurasundari Temple (Udaipur) 341
(Madurai) 606–7, 614–15 Shila Devi Temple (Amber Fort) 369, Udyotchandeshwar Temple (Almora)
Modhera Sun Temple 48, 422–3 370 194
Mogalrajapuram rock-cut temples Shirdi temple complex 478 Umananda Temple (Guwahati) 328
678 Shiva Temple (Ettumanur) 25, 642 Undavalli rock-cut temples 678
Mukteshwar Temple (Bhubaneswar) Shiva temple (Narthamalai) 605 Upper Shivalaya Temple (Badami) 541
25, 262, 311 Shiva Temple (Penukonda) 686 Urdhava Temple (Chidambaram) 594
Muktidham Temple (Nasik) 478 Shivadol Temple (Sivasagar) 336 Vadakkunnathan Temple (Thrissur)
Nageshvara Temple (Kumbakonam) Shore Temple (Mamallapuram) 9, 17, 655
597 49, 582 Vaidyanatheswara Temple (Talakad)
Narayana Temple (Melkote) 24, 526 Shri Krishna Temple (Guruvayur) 655 520
Nasiyan Temple (Ajmer) 380 Shri Lakshmi Narasimha Temple Vaikuntha Perumal Temple
Nataraja Temple (Chidambaram) 594 (Ponda) 507 (Kanchipuram) 17, 586
Navabrahma Temples (Alampur) 681 Shri Mahalakshmi (Kolhapur) 472 Vaishno Devi Cave Shrine (Jammu)
Navachoki Mamdeva Temple Shri Mahalsa Temple (Ponda) 507 158
(Kumhalgarh) 399 Shri Mangesh Temple (Ponda) 507 Vaishno Devi Cave Shrine (Kullu) 13,
Navagraha Temple (Guwahati) 328 Shri Nagueshi Temple (Ponda) 506–7 130
Neelkanth Temple (Kalinjar Fort) 215 Shri Ramnath Temple (Ponda) 506 Vaital Deul Temple (Bhubaneswar)
Neelkantha Temple (Kumhalgarh) Shri Venkateshvara Temple (Tirupati) 310–11
399 682, 683 Varadaraja Temple (Kanchipuram)
Nikanteshwar Temple (Udayapur) 247 Shridhara Temple (Bishnupur) 295 586
Olakkanatha Temple (Mamallapuram) Shrinathji Temple (Nathdwara) 403 Varaha or Adi Varaha Cave Temple
582 Shyama Raya Temple (Bishnupur) (Mamallapuram) 583
Omkareshvara Shiva Temple 294–5 Vashishtha Temple (near Guwahati)
(Madikeri) 525 Siddhnath Temple (Omkareshwar) 329
Padmabrahma Temple (Alampur) 681 254 Venkataramana Temple (Ginjee Fort)
Panch Pandava Cave Temple Simhachalam Temple (near 589
(Mamallapuram) 582 Visakhapatnam) 674 Venkataramanaswamy Temple
Panch Rathas (Mamallapuram) 584–5 Someshvara Temple (Gadag) 538 (Bengaluru) 518
Panchalinga Temple (Somnathpur) Someshvara Temple (Mukhalingam) Vidyashankara Temple (Sringeri) 531
520 675 Virabhadra Temple (Lepakshi) 686–7
Panchalingeshvara Temple (Barkur) Somnath Temple 427 Virupaksha Temple (Hampi) 15, 514,
530 Sonagiri 236 534, 536
Panchanadishvara Temple Sri Krishna Janmabhoomi Temple Virupaksha Temple (Pattadakal) 542–3
(Tiruvaiyaru) 598 (Mathura) 11, 182 Vishnu Dasavatara Temple (Deogarh)
Pandupol Temple (Sariska) 375 Sri Kurmanadha Temple (Srikakulam 28–9, 237
Papamashanam Temples (Alampur) district) 675 Vishnu Temple (Kullu) 130
681 Sri Omkar Mandhata Temple Vishnupad Temple (Gaya) 224
Papanatha Temple (Pattadakal) 543 (Omkareshwar) 254 Vishwanath Temple (Khajuraho) 242
Parasurameshwar Temple Sri Ranganatha Temple (Srirangam) Vishwanath Temple (Varanasi) 209,
(Bhubaneswar) 311 605 212
Parsvanatha Temple (Khajuraho) 242 Sri Ranganatha Temple Vishwanatha Temple (Palakkad) 656
Parthasarathi Temple (Triplicane, (Srirangapattana) 520–21 Vitthala Temple (Hampi) 15, 536–7
Chennai) 561, 574 Sri Ranganathji Temple (Brindavan) Walkeshwar Temple (Mumbai) 463
Parthasarathy Temple (Aranmula) 636 183 Yellamma Temple (Badami) 541
Parvati Temple (Baijnath) 195 Subramanyam Temple (Tiruchendur) see also Caves
Pattadakal 47 618 Temples, Jain
Perur Temple (Coimbatore) 609 Subrhmanyam Temple (Palani) 610 Adinath Temple (Jamnagar) 431
Pillaiyarpati Temple (Karaikudi) 617 Sun Temple (Arasavalli) 675 Adinath Temple (Palitana) 426
Raghunath Temple (Kullu) 13, 130 Sun Temple (Konark) 48, 49, 308, 314– Adinath Temple (Ranakpur) 398–9,
Rajarani Temple (Bhubaneswar) 311 16 400–401
Ram Raja Temple (Orchha) 238 Surya Temple (Jhalrapatan) 407 Adishvara Temple (Palitana) 426
Rama Temple (Penukonda) 686 Tambdi Surla 507 Amba Mata Temple (Junagadh) 430
Ramanathaswamy Temple Teli ka Mandir (Gwalior Fort) 233 Chandragupta Basti (Sravana Belgola)
(Rameshvaram) 617 Temple of Achyuta Raya (Hampi) 526
Ramappa Temple (Palampet) 673 536 Digambar Temple (Delhi) 88
Rameshwar Temple (Nasik) 478 Thanumalayan Temple (Suchindram) Dilwara Jain Temples (Mount Abu) 48,
Rangji Temple (Pushkar) 379 619 398, 400–401
Rasa Mancha Temple (Bishnupur) 295 Thiruvamundur Temple (near Harihara Temple (Osian) 388
Rumkini Temple (Dwarka) 431 Chengannur) 636 Hatheesing Temple (Ahmedabad)
Saas-Bahu Temples (Gwalior Fort) 233 Thousand-Pillared Temple 415
Saas-Bahu Temples (Nagda) 403 (Hanamkonda) 672 Jain Temple (Pattadakal) 543
Sandeshwar Temple (Bikaner) 383 Thyagaraja Temple (Thiruvarur) 601 Jaisalmer Fort 392
Sangameshvara Temple (Pattadakal) Thyagaraja Temple (Tiruvaiyaru) 598 Luna Vasahi Temple (Mount Abu)
542 Tirukkodittanam Temple (near 398
Sangrameshvara Temple (Alampur) Chenganacherry) 636 Mahavira Temple (Osian) 388
681 Trikuteshvara Temple (Gadag) 538 marblework in 400–401
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Index template “UK” LAYER
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Date 6th September 2012
Size 125mm x 217mm

GENER AL INDEX  785


Temples, Buddhist (cont.) Theosophical Society (Chennai) 575, 576 Tipu Sultan 56, 57, 515, 521, 658
Neminath Temple (Junagadh) 430 Theppakulam (Madurai) 612 death of 520
Neminatha Basti (Sravana Beloga) Theyyam dance-ritual (Kerala) 659 Kodagu 525
526 Thikse Festival 141 Mysuru 522
Panchasara Parsvanatha Temple Thirukazhukundram 583 Penukonda 686
(Patan) 421 Thirumalai Nayaka 612 Tipu Sultan’s Summer Palace
Parsvanatha Temple (Penukonda) 686 Thiruparankundam 613 (Bengaluru) 6–7, 518
Sachiya Mata Temple (Osian) 388 Thiruvananthapuram 16, 630–31 Tipu’s Fort (Palakkad) 656
Sanghiji Temple (Sanganer) 366 airport 749 Tiribhuvanam 597
Shantinath Temple (Jamnagar) 431 environs of 632–3 Tiruchirapalli 604–5
Sittanavasal cave temples 605 festivals 38 hotels 703
Sun Temple (Osian) 388 map 631 Tirumullaivasal 595
Udaigiri and Khandagiri Caves 312–13 Thiruvarur 601 Tirunelvelli 618
Vimala Vasahi Temple (Mount Abu) Thomas, St 47, 561, 574, 577 Tirupati 682
398, 400–401 Kerala 629, 642, 653 restaurants 719
Vishnu Temple (Osian) 388 Thongwa Rangdol Chorten (Tashiding) Tiruvaiyaru 598
Temples, Sikh, Golden Temple (Amritsar) 305 festivals 41
25, 102, 108, 109, 110–11 Thripunithura 647 Tiruvanaikka 588, 605
Tempos 759 Thrissur 655 Tiruvannamalai 588–9
Tennis 726, 731 restaurants 719 festivals 588, 593
Tenzin Gyatso 127 Thrissur Pooram 633 Todas 609, 610, 611
Tenzing Norgay 301 Thrithala 656 Toilets, public 741
Terekhol Fort 497 Thusharagiri 657 Tomar dynasty 48, 232
Terrorism 61, 78, 158 Thyagaraja 599 Tombs and mausoleums
Tetanus 743 Thyagaraja Aradhana Festival Adham Khan’s Tomb (Delhi) 97
Textiles (Thiruvaiyaru) 41 Akbar’s mausoleum (Sikandra) 182
Bastar 257 Tibet 190, 265 Bahmani necropolis (Ashtur) 549
brocades from Varanasi 213 Government-in-Exile 113, 126, 127 Balban’s Tomb (Delhi) 97
Calico Museum (Ahmedabad) 415, Little Tibet (Dharamsala) 127 Bara Gumbad (Delhi) 53, 83
416–17 Namgyal Institute of Tibetology Bibi ka Maqbara (Aurangabad) 14,
Chamba rumals 129 (Gangtok) 302 478
dhurries (Andhra Pradesh) 672, 673 refugee settlement (Choglamsar) 141 Chini ka Rauza (Agra) 180
gold thread and bead zardozi 175 Tibetan community (Mussoorie) 190 Dargah Sharif (Ajmer) 11, 380
Himroo Factory (Aurangabad) 14, Tibetan Buddhism 123, 126, 127, 135, Eklakhi Mausoleum (Pandua) 297
478–9 143, 265 Erwadi Dargah (Ramanathapuram)
Ikat weaving 321, 322, 672 Black Hat (Kagyupa) sect 302 617
kalamkari fabrics 684 Tibetan Institute of Performing Arts Firoz Khan Khwajasara’s Tomb (Agra)
Kanchipuram silk 587 (Dharamsala) 126 175
Kutch 435 Tibetan opera 127 Ghiyasuddin’s Tomb (Delhi) 99
Odisha Weaver’s Art 321 Tickets Gol Gumbad (Bijapur) 547
patola weaving 421 air 748, 751 Gumbaz (Srirangapattana) 521
shops 100–101, 286–7, 466–7, 578–9 bus and coach 756–7 Haft Gumbad (Gulbarga) 548
trade textiles: Tree of Life 677 entertainment 100, 286–7, 466, 578– Hazrat Sayyid Shahul (Nagore) 595
Weaving Centre (Luangmual) 341 9, 724 Hoshang Shah’s Tomb (Mandu) 251
what to buy 723 rail 752–3 Humayun’s Tomb (Delhi) 10, 87
Tezpur 330 tourist attractions 736 Ibrahim Rauza (Bijapur) 546
restaurants 712 Tiffin Top (Nainital) 194 Itimad-ud-Daulah’s Tomb (Agra) 180–
Thalaserry 659 Tiger Hill (near Darjeeling) 301 81
Thamsar Pass 66 Tigers 293 Jamali-Kamali Tomb (Delhi) 97
Thandi Sarak (Dalhousie) 128 Bandhavgarh National Park 230, 243 Job Charnock’s Tomb (Kolkata) 274,
Thanjavur 600–603 Corbett National Park 197 276
bronzes 598 Dudhwa National Park 198 Mahabat Maqbara (Junagadh) 412,
map 601 Hazaribagh National Park 228 430
paintings 601 Kanha National Park 258, 259 Mausolea of the Bardi (Bidar) 549
restaurants 718 Melghat Tiger Reserve 486 Mausoleum of Mir Miran (Sirhind)
Thankul tribe 340 Palamau Tiger Reserve 228 107
Thar Desert 22, 344–5, 348, 349, 355 Periyar Tiger Reserve 644–5 Mausoleum of Sher Shah Sur
Camel Safari around Jaisalmer 395 Ranthambore National Park 410, 411 (Sasaram) 220
camels 381 Sariska National Park 375 Nizamuddin Complex (Delhi) 86
Desert National Park 394 The Sunderbans 292, 293 Qutb Shahi Tombs (Golconda) 671
Theatre Tadoba-Andhari Tiger Reserve 487 Rani-ka-Hazira (Ahmedabad) 414
contemporary theatre 725 white 243, 311 Rauza Sharif (Sirhind) 107
dance-dramas see Dance Tilman, Bill 193 Royal Tombs (Madikeri) 525
Delhi 100–101 Time zone 737 Safdarjung’s Tomb (Delhi) 93
festivals 39, 41 Times of India Building (Mumbai) 457 Sarkhej Roja (near Ahmedabad)
folk theatre 724–5 Timur 52, 53, 91 415
Kolkata 287 Tingmosgang 156 Taj Mahal (Agra) 8, 11, 25, 160–61,
Mumbai 466–7 Tip-n-Top (Lansdowne) 195 176–9
Thej Singh, Raja 589 Tipi 330 Tomb of Ahmed Shah (Ahmedabad)
Thekkady 644 Tipping 739 414
hotels 703 in hotels 693 Tomb of Atgah Khan (Delhi) 86
restaurants 719 in restaurants 705 Tomb of Fateh Jang (Alwar) 374
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786  GENER AL INDEX


Tombs and mausoleums (cont.) Traveller’s cheques 744 Uttarakhand 162, 164, 171
Tomb of Khurshid Zadi (Lucknow) Trekking see Hiking and trekking see also Uttar Pradesh & Uttarakhand
200 Tribal houses 27 Uttarayan 425
Tomb of Mohammed Ghaus Tribal Mela (Bhubaneswar) 313 Uttarkashi 191
(Gwalior) 232 Tribes
Tomb of Muhammad Quli Qutb Shah Andaman and Nicobar Islands 627 V
(Golconda) 671 Northeast 340–41 Vadodara 422–3
Tomb of Muhammad Shah (Delhi) 83 Odisha 325 hotels 700
Tomb of Queen Hayat Baksh Begum Trilokinath 133 restaurants 714
(Golconda) 671 Triplicane (Chennai) 561, 574 Vagator 15, 496
Tomb of Saadat Ali Khan (Lucknow) Tripolia Gate (Jaipur) 358 Vaibhara Hill (Rajgir) 224
200 Tripolia Gate (Udaipur) 404 Vaikom 642
Tomb of St Francis Xavier (Old Goa) Tripura 265, 327, 341 Vainguinim 495
503 see also Assam & the Northeast Vairocana Buddha 149, 150
Tomb of Sheikh Salim Chishti Trishul (“Trident”) 69, 194 Vaishali 221
(Fatehpur Sikri) 187 Triuchendur 618 Vajpayee, Atal Behari 164
Tomb of Sikander Lodi (Delhi) 83 Triumph of Labour (Chowdhary) 572–3 Vakataka dynasty 47, 483, 486
Tomb of Tansen (Gwalior) 232 Trivandrum, restaurants 719 Valley of Flowers National Park 191,
Tombs of the Madurai Sultans 612 Triveni Kala Sangam (Delhi) 79, 100, 193
see also Cemeteries; Cenotaphs 101, 730 Van Vihar National Park (Bhopal) 245
Tongas 759 Tso Kar 146 Vansittart, Henry 282
Tonk 408 Tso Moriri 146 Varakaris 487
Topis 35 Tsomgo Lake (Sikkim) 302 Varanasi 165, 167, 170, 204–5, 206–13
Tourist information 736, 737 Tsuglagkhang Complex (Dharamsala) boat rides 209
Tourist lodges 691 12, 126 brocades 213
Tours Tsunami (2004) 61, 555 festivals 183
A Tour of Bundelkhand 236 Tuberculosis 743 hotels 696
A Tour of Northern Sikkim 304 Tughluq dynasty 52–3 restaurants 709
A Tour of Shekhawati 377 Tughluqabad (Delhi) 86, 95, 99 Varca Beach 511
A Walk through Old Goa 500–501 Tulsidas 207 Varkala 9, 16, 632–3
Backwaters Tour (Kerala) 638–9 Turbans 35 hotels 703
Camel Safari around Jaisalmer 395 Turkish Sultana’s House (Fatehpur Sikri) restaurants 719
coach tours 756 184, 186 Varma, Raja Raja 630
Coromandel Driving Tour 595 Tuticorin 618 Varma, Raja Ravi 79, 422–3, 569, 630,
Nubra Valley Tour 147 Typhoid 742 657
River Tour Along the Ganges 189 A Lady 519
Sangla Valley 122–3 U Radha and Madhava 423
Shillong to Cherrapunji Tour 339 Udaigiri 322–3 Vasantahabba (Bengaluru) 38
Tour of Marwar Crafts Villages 389 Udaipur (Pattan Valley) 133 Vashisht 13, 132
Tour of the Nilgiris 608–9 Udaipur (Rajasthan) 402–5 Vedic Age 45
A Walk along the Marina (Chennai) festivals 375 Vedic gods 28
572–3 hotels 699 Vegetarians 705
see also Itineraries map 403 Veils 34
Touts restaurants 713 Velankanni 595
hotel 692–3 Udaipur (Tripura) 341 Velavadar National Park 426
shops 720–21 Udayagiri 247 Vellore 588
Towers of Silence (Mumbai) 462 Udayapur 247 Vengurla 472
Town Hall (Kolhapur) 473 Udipi 529 Venite Restaurant (Panaji) 493
Town Hall (Mumbai) 456 restaurants 717 Venkatappa, K 517
Toys, Kondapalli 678 Ugadi 673 Venkateshvara Konda (Visakhapatnam)
Trains see Rail travel Ujjain 250 674
Trams (Kolkata) 274 hotels 697 Venna Lake (Mahabaleshwar) 473
Tranda 122 restaurants 710 Vernacular architecture 27
Travancore kings 630, 632, 634, 644 Uleytopko, hotels 696 Veroneo, Geronimo 173
Travel 748–59 Ullal 529 Viceregal Lodge (Shimla) 12, 115
air 748–51 Ulugh Beg 362 Viceroyalty 57, 58
bus, coach and ferry 756–7 Umaid Singh, Maharaja 385 Viceroy’s Arch (Old Goa) 501
Central India 163 Umiam Lake 338 Victoria, Queen 297, 516
Chennai 563 Unsoeld, William 193 Golden Jubilee 458
Delhi 75 Upanishads 45, 49 statues of (Kolkata) 270, 278, 279
Delhi & the North 64 Urban III, Pope 504 Victoria Memorial (Kolkata) 270, 271, 272,
Eastern India 263 Urs (Ajmer) 375 277, 278–9
Kolkata 273 User development fee 749 Vidhana Soudha (Bengaluru) 516
local transport in cities 758–9 Utorda, restaurants 716 Vijay Chowk (Delhi) 74
Mumbai 449 Uttar Pradesh 164, 171 street-by-street 76–7
rail 752–3 Uttar Pradesh & Uttarakhand Vijay Stambh (Chittorgarh) 407
road 754–5 170–215 Vijayanagar (Hampi) 53, 534–7
safety advice 734, 735 festivals 183 Vijayanagar Empire 52–3, 522, 589, 612,
South India 553 food 168–9 674, 680, 684
Southwestern India 438 hotels 696 Vijayawada 678
travel packages 751 map 171 hotels 703
Western India 346 restaurants 708–9 restaurants 719
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Index template “UK” LAYER
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Date 6th September 2012
Size 125mm x 217mm

GENER AL INDEX  787


Village architecture 27 Wellington Fountain (Mumbai) 451 Wildlife (cont.)
Village Group (Mandu) 251 Wells Nameri Sanctuary 330
Vintage and Classic Car Rally (Kolkata) St Andrew’s Kirk (Chennai) 567 Nandan Kanan Zoo (Bhubaneswar)
41 temple towns 557 311
Viper Island (Near Port Blair) 622 see also Stepwells Orang Wildlife Sanctuary 330
Visakhapatnam 674–5 West Bengal 264–5, 289 Palamau Wildlife Sanctuary 228
hotels 703 West Bengal & Sikkim 288–307 Point Calimere sanctuary 595
restaurants 719 festivals 299 River Ganges 167
Visas 734 hotels 697–8 Seog Wildlife Sanctuary (Shimla)
Vishnu 28 map 289 116
avatars of 683 restaurants 711 Sunderbans Reserve 292
Vishnuvardhana 527 trekking 306–7 Wayanad (Muthanga) Wildlife
Vishu 633, 636 see also Kolkata Sanctuary 658
Vishwanath Gali (Varanasi) 209 Western Ganga dynasty 48, 49 wildlife sanctuaries of Karnataka
Visva Bharati University (Shantiniketan) Western Ghats 443, 525, 531, 555, 524
296 608 wildlife tourism 729, 731
Visvantara Jataka 485 hiking 477 Zoo (Guwahati) 329
Vitthala Temple (Hampi) 536–7 landscape and wildlife 23, 656 see also Birds; Camels; Elephants;
Vivekananda, Swami 290, 573, 619 Western India 344–435 National parks; Olive Ridley Turtles;
Vivekananda Memorial food 352–3 Tigers
(Kanniyakumari) 619 getting around 346 Willingdon, Lady 83
Gujarat 412–35 Willingdon, Lord 92, 647
W hotels 699–700 Willingdon Island (Kochi) 647
Wagah 109 map 346–7 Wind-surfing 728
Wajid Ali Shah 57, 200, 202 portrait of 348–9 Windamere Hotel (Darjeeling) 301
Walled City (Bikaner) 383 Rajasthan 354–411 Winter 40–41
Waltair 674 restaurants 712–14 Wittet, George 450, 451, 454, 456, 461
Wancho tribe 340 Wheel of Life 145 Wodeyar dynasty 522, 523
Wandoor Marine National Park 624–5 Wheeler, General Sir Hugh 199 Women
Warangal 672 White-water rafting 39, 728, 731 in the British Raj 59
festivals 673 Himachal Pradesh 119 position of 61
Ward Lake (Shillong) 338 Ladakh & Zanskar 256–7 travellers 740–41
Wardha 487 River Tour Along the Ganges 189 Wood, John 282
hotels 701 West Bengal & Sikkim 307 World War I
Water sports 728–9, 731 Wildflower Hall (Charabra) 116 Port Trust War Memorial (Mumbai)
Andaman Water Sports Complex Wildgrass Resort (Kaziranga) 335, 699 461
(Port Blair) 622, 623 Wildlife 22–3 Teen Murti Memorial (Delhi) 82
Goa 494, 495 Alipore Zoological Gardens (Kolkata) Victory War Memorial (Chennai)
Water Sports Institute (Kadmat 282 572
Island) 650, 651 Bandipur Wildlife Sanctuary 524, World War II 60
Water-borne diseases 742 608 Burma Road 337
Water-skiing 728 Bhagwan Mahaveer Sanctuary 507 Imphal 342
Waterfalls Bhitarkanika Sanctuary 323 Kohima 343
Abbey Falls (Kodagu) 525 Bhopal Zoo 243, 245 Ross Island 623
Beadon Falls (near Shillong) 338 Bondla Sanctuary 507 Writers’ Building (Kolkata) 275
Bee Fall (Pachmarhi) 256 BRT Wildlife Sanctuary 524
Bishop Falls (near Shillong) 338 Chail Wildlife Sanctuary 116 Y
Burha Ghagh (Burha Falls) (Netarhat) Cotigao Wildlife Sanctuary 511 Yacht Club (Mumbai) 450
228 Crocodile Bank (Dakshina Chitra) 17, Yachting 728, 731
Courtallam (Kuttalam) Falls 618 582 Yakshagana (Karnataka) 539
Dhuandhar Falls 255, 256 Crocodile Sanctuary (Simlipal Yale, Elihu 564
Dudhsagar Waterfalls 507 National Park) 325 Yamuna river 95, 166, 172, 182, 215
Elephant Falls (near Shillong) 338 Darrah Wildlife Sanctuary 407 Yamunotri 191
Hundru Falls (near Ranchi) 229 Eastern Himalayas 303 Yercaud 608
Jog Falls (near Bhaktal) 530 Himalayan Nature Park (Kufri) 116 Yerikadu Lake 608
Kempty Falls (Mussoorie) 190 Himalayan Zoo (Darjeeling) 300, Yoga 188, 730, 731
Killiyur Falls (Yercaud) 608 301 Bihar School of Yoga (Munger) 221
Moyar Waterfalls 609 Himalayas 69 Youth hostels 692, 693, 736
Nohkalikai Falls 339 Jaldapara Wildlife Sanctuary 298–9 Yuksam 305
Nohsngithiang Falls 339 Kalatope Wildlife Sanctuary Yumthang 304
Rajat Prapat (Pachmarhi) 256 (Dalhousie) 128 Yusuf Adil Shah 490, 501, 505
Raneh Falls (near Khajuraho) 242 Kumbhalgarh Wildlife Sanctuary
Siruvani Waterfalls (Coimbatore) 399 Z
609 Little Rann of Kutch Sanctuary 433 Zanskar 133, 154–5
Wayanad District 658 Madras Snake Park (Chennai) 576–7 trekking 156–7
hotels 703 Marine Aquarium (Kavaratti Island) Zanskar Range 113, 147, 151, 154
Weaving see Textiles 650 Zardozi 175
Wedding costumes 34–5 marine life in the coral reefs 651 Zenanas 351
Weights and measures 737 Melghat Tiger Reserve 486 Ziro 337
Weiking Dance (Shillong) 331 Mudumalai Wildlife Sanctuary 608–9 Zoffany, John 276, 279
Wellington, Arthur Wellesley, Duke of Nagarhole Wildlife Sanctuary 524, Zoos see Wildlife
451, 564, 658 608 Zoroastrianism see Parsis
760-787_EW_India.indd 787 26/04/17 11:51 am

788  A CKNOWLEDGMENT S

Acknowledgments

Dorling Kindersley would like to thank the following Additional Contributors
people whose contributions and assistance have made John Abraham, Anvar Alikhan, Usha Balakrishnan, Manini
this book possible. Chatterjee, Anuradha Chaturvedi, Rta Kapur Chishti, Anna
Dallapiccola, Dharmendar Kanwar, Ranjana Sengupta.
Main Contributors
Roshen Dalal has a PhD in Ancient Indian History from Additional Illustrations
the Jawaharlal Nehru University, Delhi, and is the author of Naveed Ahmed Vali, Ampersand.
A History of India for Children.
Partho Datta teaches Indian History at a college in Additional Photography
Delhi University. Ashwin Raju Adimari, Idris Ahmed, Akhil Bakshi, Andy Crawford,
Divya Gandhi, an environmentalist and geographer, Geoff Dann (Ashmolean Museum, Oxford), Neha Dhingra,
is pursuing a doctorate at the University of Michigan. Urmila Dongre, DN Dube, Gables Ellen Howdon (Glasgow
Premola Ghose has travelled extensively, especially in Museum), Glasgow, Benu Joshi, Aditya Katyal, Dave King
Madhya Pradesh and Maharashtra. She is the Programme Mathew Kurien, Ian O’Leary, Tanvi Mishra, Aditya Patankar,
Officer at the India International Centre, Delhi. Ram Rahman.
Ashok Koshy is a senior civil servant who has spent many
years in Gujarat and Kerala. Proof Reader and Indexer
Abha Narain Lambah is an architectural conservationist, Anita Roy, Ranjana Saklani.
who is the Director of Bombay Collaborative, a pioneering
firm in the field of urban design and conservation Fact Check
in Mumbai. Ranee Sahaney.
Annabel Lopez is a practising architect as well as an
architectural historian who has co-authored the book Revision & Relaunch Team
Houses of Goa. Ashwin Raju Adimari, Emma Anacootee, Tanya Anand,
Sumita Mehta is a journalist and travel writer based in Saumya Ancheri, Brigitte Arora, Aniket Basu, Raaja Bhasin,
Delhi, who has worked on conservation projects in Prabhash Chandra Biswas, Subhadeep Biswas, Vamsi Chaitanya,
Rajasthan. Jo Cowen, Aparup Das, Himanshu Das, Neha Dhingra, Fay
Rudrangshu Mukherji is a leading columnist, journalist Franklin, Robins George, Devyani Gupta, Nasreen Habib,
and author based in Kolkata Mohammed Hassan, Emily Hatchwell, Mohit Jindal, Jason Little,
Meenu Nageshwaran runs a travel agency, Incent Tours, Snehal Kanodia, Bharti Karakoti, Juliet Kenny, Carly Madden, Sonal
in Delhi. Modha, Casper Morris, Sushmita Malaviya, Souvik Mukherjee,
Rushad R Nanavatty is a keen mountaineer who has Rina Mukherji, Anil Mulchandani, Hina Nainani, Susheela Nair,
trekked extensively in northern, central and eastern India. Alka Pande, Clare Peel, Helen Peters, Dave Pugh, Marisa Renzullo,
Ira Pande is the editor of IIC Quarterly in Delhi. Shiladitya Sarkar, Lakshmi Sharath, Preeti Singh, Beverly Smart,
Usha Raman is a freelance writer and editor based Azeem Siddiqui, Sands Publishing Solutions, Vivien Stone,
in Hyderabad. Avantika Sukhia, Neeraj Soni, Julie Thompson, Cincy Jose Thottan,
Janet Rizvi, a PhD from Cambridge, is a leading authority Jackson Jose Thottan, Janis Utton, Ajay Verma, Dora Whitaker,
on Ladakh and author of two books, Ladakh, Crossroads of Natasha Yadav, Rhea Yadav, Tanveer Zaidi.
High Asia and Trans-Himalayan Caravans: Merchant Princes
and Peasant Traders in Ladakh. Publishing Manager
Ranee Sahaney is a well-known travel writer, and regular Anna Streiffert.
contributor to outlooktraveller.com.
Deepak Sanan is a senior civil servant who has spent many Art Director
years working in Himachal Pradesh. He has written Gillian Allan.
extensively on the region.
Darsana Selvakumar has a post-graduate degree in Publisher
Ancient Indian History and archaeology. Douglas Amrine.
Sankarshan Thakur is a senior journalist and author of a
book on Bihar. Special Assistance
Shikha Trivedi is an authority on traditional crafts. She is Arundhti Bhanot; Mahesh Buch; Tarun Chhabria; Manosh
working with India’s leading television news channel. De; Sharada Dwivedi; Asit Gopal; Sandhya Iyer; GM Kakpori;
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in Chennai. She also sits on the governing body of the Meenal Kshirsagar; Aparajita Kumar; Ritu Kumar; Anna
Music Academy Madras, one of South India’s leading Madhavan; Aditi Mehta; Milan Moudgill; Sunil Philip; Nihar
cultural organizations. Rao; Anita Roy; KJ Ravinder; Samit Roychoudhury; Shweta
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specializing in India. Among his many publications are Jodhpur; Vijay Singh. American Institute of Indian Studies.
books on Hindu temples, royal palaces, the Vijayanagar Archaeological Survey of India, New Delhi.
Empire and Deccani art and architecture. Architecture Autonomous, Goa: Gerard da Cunha





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A CKNOWLEDGMENT S  789


and Amit Modi. Architectural Conservation Cell of centre right below; bl = bottom left; b = bottom; bc =
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Pallava Bagla: 22cr, 28­29c, 32tr, 69bl, 166cl, 197b, 225cl,
Dorling Kindersley would like to thank all regional and local 254b, 375c, 381cb, 645b.
tourist offices throughout India for their valuable help. Manu Bahuguna: 79br, 89cr, 434tr, 449cr, 458tr, 475bl,
Particular thanks to Ravi Babu; Chandana Khan, Secretary, 525b, 547br, 563c, 574t, 576t, 622b, 623t, 650c, 726b,728t,
Tourism & Culture Department, Hyderabad; Victoria Memorial, 729t.
Kolkata: CR Panda; Indian Museum, Kolkata: Shyamalkanti Akhil Bakshi: 32b/br, 33bl, 190b, 223br, 395b, 440c.
Chakravarti; The Asiatic Society, Kolkata: Ms Sarkar; Kunjo M Balan: 22crb, 373b, 554c, 630b, 631t, 632cl/tr, 634tr, 635tl,
Tashi; Rajiv Mehrotra; Tenzin Geyche Tethong, Secretary to 637c/bl, 638­639c, 639tl/br, 644tl/clb, 645tl/cr, 650br, 651t/c/
His Holiness, the Dalai Lama, Dharamsala; Chief PRO, Central br, 652c, 653t/c, 654cl, 656b, 658t/c, 660t/c, 661cr/c, 692b.
Railways, Mumbai: Mukul Marwah; Quila House, Patna: BM Kakoli Barkakoti: 328c, 329br, 337t.
Jalan; Secretary, Department of Cultural Affairs, Thiruvanan­ Pablo Bartholomew/Mediaweb India: 266cl, 266­267c.
thapuram: Prof HV Pradhan; INTACH (Pune); RK Saini. Benoy Behl: 46tr, 51tr, 140t/c, 141b, 142tr/cl/cr/br, 143tl/
cl/b, 144b, 145bl/bc/br, 147cl/clb, 148tr/br/b, 149cr/crb/br,
Photography Permissions 150c/b, 151cl/b, 155c/b, 480tr/clb, 481t/c, 482t, 483t/b,
Dorling Kindersley would like to thank all those at temples, 484t/cl/c/cr/clb/crb/bl/b/br, 485cr/bl/br, 569b, 570c.
forts, palaces, museums, restaurants, shops and other Subhash Bhargava: 27clb, 60bl, 183c, 350br, 362c/bl, 368b,
sights, for their cooperation and contribution to this 371cla/cr, 377t, 381cl/bc/b, 383t, 385b, 402tr, 405clb,
publication. The Publisher would also like to thank the 406t/b, 407t, 408t, 411t.
following for their assistance and kind permission to Bihar School of Yoga Ganga Darshan, Munger: 221t.
photograph at their establishments: Brindavan, New Delhi; Subhadeep Biswas: 79tr, 94tl, 271b, 279tl, 279br, 745cb.
Crafts Museum, New Delhi; Good Earth, New Delhi; Annie Dean Brown K: 82b.
Kumar, Regalia, India Tea House, New Delhi; Ramji Bharany, Ashish Chandola: 66ca, 372b.
Bharany’s, New Delhi. Particular thanks also to Urmila Chettinadu Mansion: 702tl
Dongre and Vivek Narang for their kind permission to Tarun Chhabra: 611cl. Rta Kapur Chishti: 213cr/clb/crb/
photograph their products. bl/br (a, b, c, d), 587c/cb/crb, 677cr (a, b, c, d, e, f).
RS Chundawat: 68cla, 140b, 144t, 146c, 147t, 157b, 190t,
Picture Credits 196cl/cb, 198b, 259crb, 299b, 325c, 375b, 427br, 524crb.
t = top; tl = top left; tlc = top left centre; tc = top centre; tr Claridges: 694bl
= top right; cla = centre left above; ca = centre above; cra Cochrane Place: 698tr
= centre right above; cl = centre left; c = centre; cr = centre Costumes & Textiles of Royal India: Ritu Kumar 34cl.
right; clb = centre left below; cb = centre below; crb = Corbis: Dinodia 428­429, Blaine Harrington III 353tl; Jon Hicks





788-791_EW_India.indd 789 26/04/17 11:51 am

790  A CKNOWLEDGMENT S


12br Eric Meola 468, Calle Montes 9cr; Steve Raymer 746bc; House of Mangaldas Girdhardas: 699br.
Robert Harding World Imagery/Leplat Véronique 169c. Fawzan Husain: 440b. Hyatt Regency: 725b.
Crafts Museum: 84cl/clb, 85ca/crb, 256c. India Today Magazine: 669cl.
Gilles Crampes: 127cl. Tanmoy Das: 322bl. Indian Accent: 705br.
Vivek Das: 266bl/br. Prosenjit Dasgupta: 320tl. iStockphoto.com: Coica 739ca, LUKASZ-NOWAK1 280bl,
Deen Dayal Trust: 669clb. powerofforever 350cl, SaikatP 285tl, siraanamwong 414cla,
Dharma Productions: 37tl. Ashok Dilwali: 116t, 117c/br, vbel71 561b.
118b, 119tr, 120c, 121cr, 122cr/b, 124tl, 124cr, 125t/c, 126t, Prakash Israni: 22tr, 40c, 67t, 105bl, 187bl, 313c, 471b,
127tr, 128c, 129c/b, 130t/c, 131bl, 132c/bl, 133t/c/b, 476c/b. Ravi Kaimal: 128t.
134cra, 135br, 162cl, 167cl, 174t, 191t, 193b, 195b, 263b, ITC Grand: 717tr
303crb, 304cla, 305b, 306b, 622t/c, 623ca, 624clb, 625b, Prem Kapoor: 46c, 60br,132t, 199bl, 636t, 643c, 724b.
627ca, 627bc. Thomas Dix: 240tr/c, 241b, 350-351c, , 375cr, Sudhir Kasliwal: 364b, 365clb/bl/b, 722bl.
398t, 401tr/bl, 418tr/cl/cr, 419cl/b, 422/tr/c, 423cra/cr, 426t, Dinesh Khanna: 109b, 167cla, 206cl/c/cr/b, 207cl/crb/bl,
480b, 481b, 482b, 485t/cl/crb, 683br. 211cr/bl, 317tr/br, 349t, 381c, 384tr, 425c, 441c, 442br,
Dhole’s Den: 693tr. 443tl/tc/bc/br, 510b, 555t, 667tl, 669bl, 722cr.
Dreamstime.com: Acwill69 334tr, Anyacola 688-689, BN Khazanchi: 40br, 41c, 331tr.
Stuart Atkinson 382tr, Parthkumar Bhatt 759br, Blossfeldia Ashish Khokar: 32cl, 257br.
124b; Byelikova 274bl, Rafał Cichawa 216, Cyberjade 62-63, Rupinder Khullar: 34tr,107b, 108b, 225cb, 229b, 316b,
Dessini 42bl, Oleg Doroshenko 379br, Rene Drouyer 390cra, 322br, 325t/br, 462t, 463b.
Dvrcan 93cra, Jorg Hackemann 2-3, 10bl, Euriico 627tr, Bobby Kohli: 267tl.
Monica Furlong 11tc, Dmytro Gilitukha 633bl, Krishna Kumar: 624t/cl/cr/crb, .
Goncaloferreira 368tr, Javarman 16b, Aji Jayachandran 38cl, Karoki Lewis: 208cra, 211tl/cl.
Jeewee 210clb, Pius Lee 394br, Lifeink 464br, Richard Lindie Lakkhotaa Lodge: 691br
729br, Manav Lohia 35cra, Manubahuguna 268crb, Amlan Lonely Planet Images: Dallas Stribley 353c.
Mathur 720cr, Mattyc1965 230, Aliaksandr Mazurkevich 170, Mehrangarh Fort, Jodhpur: 386b,
Merzzie 628, Milosk50 8clb, Rudra Narayan Mitra 265tl, Dalip Mehta: 381clb, 303cr/c/clb.
Luciano Mortula 102, Amith Nag 593bl, Jagannathan Vishwanath Mishra: 443bl.
Narayanan 68-69c, Noppasinw 532-533, Marina Pissarova V Muthuraman: 6 & 7, 26br, 28cl, 29cr/br, 40tl, 49clb, 51tl/
550-551, Radiokafka 162bl, 357cr, Rodrigolab 160-161, 215br, bl/br, 58br, 208bl/br, 209tl/tr, 210bl, 211tr, 212cl/b, 214t,
Dmitry Rukhlenko 72, 344-345, Rvc5pogod 15bl, Saiko3p 5tr, 224t/b, 225b, 226c/br, 241c, 242c, 273t, 275crb, 278tr/b,
78tl, 105tl, 201cr, 514, 580, Samrat35 308, Sergeychernov 285c, 328t, 338b, 339t/c, 520b, 521tl, 522b, 523tl/cra, 528cr/
11br, 354, Kamlesh Sethy 272cl, Milan Surkala 117tl, Zzvet crb/b, 539cla/cl/clb, 552t/c, 555c/b, 564t/b, 569t, 570bl/br,
727tr, Nickolay Stanev 620, Aleksandar Todorovic 436-437 573t/c/b, 575br, 582t, 586t/b, 587cl/ cr/clb/b, 588t/bl/br,
Fotomedia Picture Library: 59tr, 146t, 156b, 200b, 290b, 589t/c/b, 590tr, 591tl/cr/crb, 592c, 593br, 594b, 595br, 596t,
475cl; Jyoti M Banerjee 197t, 338c; Francois Gautier 400cl, 597t/c/b, 598t/c/b, 599bl/br, 600t/c/b, 601cl, 602b, 603t/c,
445br, 730t, Nihal Mathur 410tr; Sanjiv Mishra 41br; 604t/c, 605t/c/b, 608t/b, 609c/crb/br, 610t/bl/br, 611c/cr/
Sundeep Nayak 372c; Christine Pemberton 26cl, 199t, crb/bl/br, 612c/b, 613t, 614cl/b, 615t/c/b, 616cl/cr/clb/crb/
310tr, 312b, 448cl, 458c, 477cr, 704b; Otto Pfister 134bl, bl/br, 617t/b, 618t/b, 619t/b, 632b, 637cb, 654clb, 656t,
372t/clb, 373tl/cr; Sanjay Saxena 189cl, 307c, 359bl; 657t, 658b, 659t/c/b, 660b, 661cl/bl/br, 738t.
Mathew Titus 59tl; Henry Wilson 207br. Aman Nath: 49br, 54br.
Eros International: Eros International and Bhansali Ashok Nath: 331tl, 336b,
Productions 36-37ca. National Museum, New Delhi: 30cla, 44, 45bl, 47c/br/bc,
RK Gaur: 65br, 262cl, 330b, 337b, 340cl. 52br, 53t, 54c/clb, 55c/cr, 57bl, 80tr/c/clb/bl/br, 81t, 145cl,
Getty Images: AFP/Emmanuel Dunand 432br/Prakash 253b, 409cr/bl, 669br;
Singh 730br, AFP/Prakash Singh 758br, Aurora/ RC Dutta Gupta 33tl, 46bc, 48bc, 56t;. P Roy 365crb (a) & (b)
PatitucciPhoto 559tl; Ayan82 254c; Dinodia Photos 488; National School of Drama, New Delhi: 30crb.
Miles Ertman 204-205; Michele Falzone 396-397; Amar Nehru Memorial Library, Teen Murti, New Delhi: 61tl.
Grover 332-333; Hindustan Times 36c, 38br; ImagesBazaar Old World Hospitality Pvt. Ltd.: Chor Bizarre 706bc.
34br, 34-35c; Athul Krishnan (www.athul.in) 576br; Mint Atithi Parinay: 700br
451bl, 747cl; Francesco Pavanetto 412; photosindia 34cb; Amit Pasricha: 22cr, 35br, 42tl, 43ca, 48c, 59bl, 64cl,144c,
PhotosIndia.com 745tc; National Geographic/James L. 166br, 340bl/b, 341tl, 342t/b,389cla/cr/bl, 404tr, 430b,
Stanfield 657b; Robert Harding World Imagery / Gavin 431t/b, 591b.
Hellier 73b; Asanka Brendon Ratnayake 183clb; Dmitry Avinash Pasricha: 32c/cr, 33cl/cr/bc/br, 106t, 317bl, 518t,
Rukhlenko 112; Sankar Salvady 606-607; Sapna Reddy 554b, 599cl/c/cr/crb/cra/
Photography 152-153; STR / Stringer 36ca; STRDEL / Aditya Patankar: 32tl, 232tl/c/b, 233t/cl/cr/b,
Stringer 37cr; The India Today Group/Mail Today 711br, 350bl, 351cr, 360tr, 376t/c, 394t, 407b,
725tl; UniversalImagesGroup 705tl. K Prabhakar: 667tr/c/b, 671c, 673t/cr.
Premola Ghose: 225crb. Prince of Wales Museum of Western India, Mumbai:
Ashim Ghosh: 52bc, 187br. 454tr/c/b, 455c/b.
Joanna van Gruisen: 22clb/bl/cla, 23tr, 69tr, 131c, 142clb, Press Information Bureau: 60tl.
146bl/br, 197crb, 228c, 258t, 292tr, 323t/c/b, 330c,394c, Ram Rahman: 76bl.
410cl, 524cr, 644bl. VK Rajamani: 29tr, 50tr/clb/cb, 50-51c, 556c/bl,
Harbour Restaurant: 718tl. 557tl/bl, 565b, 568c, 569c, 723cb.





788-791_EW_India.indd 790 26/04/17 11:51 am
Eyewitness Travel LAYERS PRINTED:
Acknowledgements template “UK” LAYER
(Source v1.1)
Date 5th November 2012
Size 125mm x 217mm

A CKNOWLEDGMENT S  791


Bharath Ramamrutham: 519cl/c/ca/bl/cb/br. SuperStock: Age Fotostock 732-733, Hemis.fr 234-235
CR Rao: Anantha Padmanabha 656c. Dalip Singh Thakur: 23bc, 69cr/crb/br, 116c, 190c, 195c,
E Rao: Hanumantha 23bl,411crb/b, 654cr. 299c, 303bl, 335c, 486b, 524cl/clb.
Reshi Maryam: 39tl, 67br, 158t/c, 159t/c, 434c, 435c. Stock Transparency Services: 470t/c, 475c, 486t, 487t.
Rex Features: Courtesy Everett Collection 14bl. Amar Talwar: 61bc 69cra, 121br, 131t, 165t, 167cra, 186b,
Janet Rizvi: 151t/cr. 192b, 229t, 252cb, 257cl, 432t, 434br, 435bl.
Roli Books: 31cl, 35tl, 392b; “Tradition & Beyond: Taj Hotels: 690bl, 696bl, 703bl, 707tr, 708bl, 715br
Handcrafted Indian Textiles”, 2001 by Rta Kapur Chishti & The Bodhi Tree: 697tr
Rahul Jain 321cl/cr (a) & (b)/br. The Oberoi Grand: Baan Thai 710tl
Kamal Sahai: 47bl. The Statesman: R De 41tr.
Sanjeev Saith: 64clb, 104bc, 107t, 158b, 166tr, 167cb, 191b, UTV Motion Pictures: 37br.
192c, 194t/c/b, 195t, 211crb, 213cl, 220c, 228t/b, 264c, V & A Museum, London (Courtesy of the
292c, 304crb, 415c, 728b Board of Trustees): 54tr, 57bc.
Deepak Sanan: 122cl, 123t/c, 331b, 336c, 337c, 341cl. Ritu Varuni: 340cr/br, 341cr.
Sanctuary Features & Photo Library: 442cb, 443tr; Parvish Verma Bimla: 27tl, 30tr, 31crb, 106c, 127crb/br, 166cr, 221b,
Pandya 626c; Shailendra Yashwant 471cl. 225cr, 257cr/cb/clb, 299t, 313b, 316c, 324t, 402c, 435br,
Sanghvi, Hemen 27tr/cl/cr/crb/bl, 265b, 328b, 329t, 338t, 474c, 679t/bl.
340tl, 341tr/b, 343t/c/b. BPS Walia: 105c/cr, 107c, 108t/c, 109t/c,
Sangla Camp & Retreat: 695tr 110tr/cl/cr/b, 111t/b, 125b, 127tl/cr (a) & (b), 145c, 203bl,
R Sankaran: 623b. 247c, 248b,251t/c, 252tr/cl, 253tl/tr, 259cr, 310b, 312cb,
Saran Shalini: 39br, 52cl, 54bl, 55tl/bl, 56br, 81cb, 95bc, 314cl, 400tr, 401br, 427t, 462b, 528cl.
99tl, 164c,174b, 175b,188b, 198t/c, 203br, 211br, 225cra, Wedding Affair Magazine: 35c.
244tr, 246c, 248tr/c/cb, 249t, 252b, 255br, 409crb, 433t, Rom Whitaker: 625t.
435tl/tc/tr/bc World Wildlife Fund: 334clb, 335b.
Sarabhai Foundation, Calico Museum of Textiles, Yash Raj Films: 36tr,.
Ahmedabad: 416tr/cl/bl, 417t/c/b. Works of art have been reproduced with the permission of
TS Satyan: 23br, 31cr, 33tr, 169br (a, b), 521bl, 522tr/c, the following copyright holders
539bl/br, 594t, 639cra, 738cb. © Courtesy Shriji Arvind Singhji Mewar,
Pepita Seth: 220b, 653b. Chairman and Managing Trustee, Maharana Mewar
Ajay & Mugdha Sethi: 168br, 169bl, 178ca/crb, 179cl/bl, Historical Publications Trust 409cl; Ramachandra
207t, 209b, 210br, 285b, 295br, 736t, 745clb. Maharana, Puri, Orissa 317cl; Mundrika Devi,
Siddharth: 267b. Madhubani, Bihar 31tl.
Toby Sinclair: 22cl/crb, 23tl/clb/crb/b,29bl, 35tr, 117bl, FEP: Left: Corbis: Eric Meola (cb). Dorling Kindersley:
128b, 143tr, 159b,163b, 165b, 167tr, 191c, 196br, 197cr, Mathew Kurien (tl). Dreamstime.com: Merzzie (bc); Luciano
215tr, 241t, 242t/b, 243cl/clb/crb/b, 258cl/clb/b, 259t, Mortula (tc); Dmitry Rukhlenko (tr); Sergeychernov (cl);
292b, 293t/c/b, 295t, 296t, 302t/c, 303cl, 311c, 313t, 325bl, Saiko3p (crb). Getty Images: Dinodia Photos (bl); Francesco
329cl, 330t, 334br, 334cla, 335t/cb, 339b, 340tr, 383c, 385t, Pavanetto (clb)
388b, 400b, 401cr, 405cra, 408b, 410c/b, 411c, 420t, 427bl, FEP: Right Alamy Images: Simon Reddy (crb); Travelib Asia
433c/b, 443crb,582b, 584tr, 625c, 635cr, 638cl/br, 644c, (tr). Dreamstime.com: Rafał Cichawa (tc); Aliaksandr
649c, 651bl, 654crb, 674c/b, 683bc, 736b, 757t. Mazurkevich (tl); Mattyc1965 (clb); Samrat35 (cb); Saiko3p
NP Singh: 358bl. Dhruv Singh: 398b, (bl); Nickolay Stanev (bc). Getty Images: Dmitry Rukhlenko (ftl)
Hashmat Singh: 66b, 68clb,118c, 119tl/b, 120tl, 123b,
127clb/bl, 129t, 130b, 131br, 134tr/c/br, 135tl/cl/bl, 143cr, Cover:
147cr, 154t, 155t, 156c/cb, 157t, 193t, 266tr/clb, 298t, 300t, Front: Ardea: Adam Jones / Danita Delimont / a.
301t/c/b, 302b, 305t, 306c, 307t/b, 349b, 385c, 399b, 401tl/ Spine: Ardea: Adam Jones / Danita Delimont / a.
crb, 692tr. All other images © Dorling Kindersley. For further
Siolim House: 701tr information see: www.dkimages.com






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788-791_EW_India.indd 791 26/04/17 11:51 am

792  FUR THER READING

Further Reading

History Rupa, New Delhi, 1967. Naipaul, Heinemann, Oxford, 1990.
The Wonder that was India India: A Wounded Civilization VS
A Discovery of India Jawaharlal Nehru, Part II, SAA Rizvi, Sidgwick & Naipaul, Vintage Books,
Oxford University Press, New Delhi, Jackson, London, 1987.Tuzuk-i- New York, 1977.
1997. Jahangiri: Memoirs of Jahangir Indian Cinema, Past and Present Feroze
A History of India (Vol 1) (trans) Alexander Rogers and Henry Rangoonwala, Clarion Books, New
Romila Thapar, Penguin, Beveridge, London, 1909–14. Delhi, 1983.
New Delhi, 1990. Xuanzang: A Buddhist Pilgrim on the Madras Rediscovered S Muthiah,
A History of India (Vol 2) Silk Road Sally H Wriggins, Boulder EastWest Books, Chennai, 1999.
Percival Spear, Penguin, Press, Colorado, 1996. May You Be the Mother of a Hundred
New Delhi, 1990. Sons Elizabeth Bumiller, Random
A History of South India Religion and Philosophy House Inc, New York, 1990.
KA Nilakanta Sastri, Buddhism Christmas Humphreys, No Fullstops in India Mark Tully, Viking,
Oxford University Press, Penguin, London, 1951. London, 1991.
New Delhi, 1999. Hinduism Kshiti Mohan Sen, Penguin, The Great Indian Middle Class Pavan K
A History of the Sikhs Khushwant London, 1961. Varma, Penguin, New Delhi, 1998.
Singh, Oxford University Press, New Hindu Myths Wendy O’Flaherty, The Muslim Community of the Indo-
Delhi, 1991. Penguin, London, 1974. Pakistan Subcontinent Dr Ishtiaq
Alberuni’s India Edward C Sachau, Manifestations of Shiva (exhibition Hussain Qureshi, Oxford University
Routledge & Kegan Paul, catalogue), Stella Kramrisch, Press, New Delhi, 1977.
London, 1988. Philadelphia Museum of Art, The Remembered Village
A New History of India Stanley Wolpert, Philadelphia, 1981. MN Srinivas, Oxford University
Oxford University The Bhagwadgita Robert Charles Press, New Delhi, 1996.
Press, New York, 1990. Zaehner, Oxford University Press,
Annals and Antiquities of London, 1969. Architecture
Rajasthan Col James Tod, South The Ramayana and the Mahabharata Forts Walks: Around Bombay’s
Asia Books, Columbia, 1987. Chakravarti Rajagopalachari, Bharati Fort Areas Sharda Dwivedi & Rahul
Babur Nama: Memoirs of Babur (trans) Vidya Bhavan, Mehrotra, Eminence Designs,
Wheeler M Thackston, Oxford Mumbai, 1951. Bombay, 1999.
University Press, London, 1996. Indian Architecture Percy Brown, (2
Delhi Between Two Empires Narayani Culture and Society vols), DB Taraporevala Sons and Co,
Gupta, Oxford University Press, New A Taste of India Madhur Jaffrey, Bombay, 1964
Delhi, 1981. Atheneum Publishers, Mughal Architecture Ebba Koch,
Freedom at Midnight Dominique New York, 1986. PRESTEL-Verlag, Munich, 1991.
Lapierre and Larry Collins, Avon Banaras, City of Light Stones of Empire Jan Morris, Oxford
Books, New York, 1955. Diana L Eck, Alfred A Knopf, New University Press, Oxford, 1983.
India: A History John Keay, York, 1982. The Moonlight Garden Elizabeth B
HarperCollins, New Delhi, 2000. Bombay: City of Gold Gillian Tindall, Moynihan, Smithsonian Institution,
India Britannica Geoffrey Moor-house, Penguin, London, 1992. Washington DC, 2000.
Harvill, London, 1983. Bombay: The Cities Within The Forts of India Virginia Fass, Collins,
India’s Struggle for Independence Bipan Sharada Dwivedi & Rahul Mehrotra, London, 1986.
Chandra et al, Penguin, New Delhi, India Book House, Bombay, 1995. The Hindu Temple George Michell,
1989. Butter Chicken in Ludhiana Pankaj University of Chicago Press,
Ladakh: Crossroads of High Asia Janet Mishra, Penguin, New Delhi, 1995. Chicago, 1988.
Rizvi, Oxford University Press, New Calcutta, The City Revealed Geoffrey The History of Architecture in India
Delhi, 1996. Moorhouse, Weidenfeld & Nicolson, Christopher Tadgell, Phaidon,
Liberty or Death Patrick French, 1971. London, 1990.
HarperCollins, London, 1997. Dance of the Peacock: Jewellery The Palaces of India Virginia Fass and
Lives of the Indian Princes Traditions of India Usha R Bala Maharaja of Baroda, Collins,
Charles Allen & Sharada Dwivedi, Krishnan & Meera S Kumar, India London, 1980.
Century, Book House, Mumbai, 1999. The Penguin Guide to the Monuments
London, 1985. Desert Places Robyn Davidson, Viking, of India (2 vols) George Michell and
Plain Tales from the Raj London, 1996. Phillip Davies, Viking, London, 1989.
Charles Allen, Andre Deutsch, Eyewitness India, Manini Chatterjee & Rajput Palaces GHR Tillotson, Oxford
London, 1975. Anita Roy, Dorling Kindersley, University Press, New Delhi, 1987.
The Great Moghuls Bamber Gascoigne, London, 2002. Traditional Buildings of India Ilay
Dorset Press, London, 1971. Garden of Life: An Introduction to the Cooper & Barry Dawson, Thames &
The Last Mughal: The Fall of a Dynasty, Healing Plants of India Naveen Hudson,
Delhi, 1857 Patnaik, Doubleday, New York, 1993. New York, 1998.
William Dalrymple, Hanklyn-Janklin Nigel B Hankin,
Bloomsbury, London, 2007. Banyan Books, New Delhi, 1992. Arts and Crafts
The Idea of India Sunil Khilnani, Farrar Historical Dictionary of Indian Food KT Art of the Imperial Cholas Vidya
Strauss Giroux, Achaya, Oxford University Press, Dehejia, Columbia University Press,
New York, 1997. New Delhi, 1998. New York, 1990.
The Wonder that was India AL Basham, India: A Million Mutinies Now VS A Second Paradise Naveen Patnaik,




792-793_EW_India.indd 792 26/04/17 11:51 am

FUR THER READING  793

Further Reading

Sidgwick & Jackson, London, 1985. Encyclopaedia of Indian Natural History Three Plays: Nagamandala,
Company Paintings: Indian Paintings of RE Hawkins (ed), Oxford University Hayavadana and Tughlaq, Girish
the British Period Mildred Archer, Press, Bombay, 1986. Karnad, Oxford University Press,
Victoria and Albert Museum, Flowers of the Himalaya Oleg Polunin New Delhi, 1997.
London in association with Mapin and Adam Stainton, Oxford Train to Pakistan Khushwant Singh,
Publishing, Ahmedabad, 1992. University Press, New Delhi, 1984. Ravi Dayal, New Delhi, 1988.
Costumes and Textiles of Royal India Handbook of Birds of India and
Ritu Kumar, Christie’s Books, Pakistan, 2nd edition, Salim Ali and Memoirs/Biography
London, 1999. S Dillon Ripley, Oxford University A Princess Remembers Gayatri Devi,
Himalayan Art Madanjeet Singh, Press, London, 1995. Rupa, New Delhi, 1995.
Macmillan, New York, 1963. In Danger Paola Manfredi (ed),
India: Art and Culture 1300–1900 Ranthambhore Foundation, India’s Bandit Queen: The True Story of
Phoolan Devi Mala Sen, Harvill,
(exhibition catalogue), Stuart Cary New Delhi, 1997.
Welch, The Metropolitan Museum Indian Wildlife S Israel and T Sinclair London, 1991.
of Art, New York, 1985. (eds), APA Publications, Hong Kong, Indira Gandhi Katherine Frank,
Indian Art Vidya Dehejia, Phaidon, 1987. HarperCollins, New Delhi, 2001.
London, 1997. India’s Wildlife History: An Introduction My Experiments with Truth Mohandas
Indian Interiors Sunil Sethi, Taschen, Mahesh Rangarajan, Permanent Karamchand Gandhi, Navjivan,
Cologne, 2000. Black, New Delhi, 2001. Ahmedabad, 1927.
Indian Painting MS Randhawa, and Land of the Tiger Valmik Thapar, BBC The Hill of Devi EM Forster, Harcourt
John Kenneth Galbraith, Vakils, Consumer Publishing, London, 1997. Brace, New York, 1953.
Feffer and Simon, Mumbai, 1982. Trees of India Pallava Bagla, Timeless, The Life of Mahatma Gandhi
Kalighat Paintings: Images from a New Delhi, 2000. Louis Fischer, Harper & Row, New
Changing World Jyotindra Jain, Mapin York, 1950.
Publishing, Ahmedabad, 1999. Literature The Tribal World of Verrier Elwin
Masterpieces from the National A Passage to India EM Forster, Ramachandra Guha, Oxford
Museum Collection SP Gupta, New Harcourt, Brace & World, New York, University Press, New Delhi, 1999.
Delhi, 1985. 1924.
Paradise as a Garden Elizabeth B A Suitable Boy Vikram Seth, Viking- Travelogues
Moynihan, George Braziller Inc, Penguin, New Delhi, 1993. Branch Line to Eternity Bill Aitken,
New York, 1979. Gitanjali Rabindranath Tagore,
Penguin India, New Delhi 2001.
Penguin Dictionary of Indian Classical Chiswick Press, London, 1912. Chasing the Monsoon
Music Raghava Menon, Penguin, Heat and Dust Ruth P Jhabvala, John Alexander Frater, Alfred Knopf Inc,
New Delhi, 1995. Murray, London, 1975.
South Indian Bronzes In Custody Anita Desai, Heinemann, New York, 1992.
C Sivaramamurti, Lalit Kala Oxford, 1984. City of Djinns William Dalrymple,
Akademi, New Delhi, 1963. Kim Rudyard Kipling, Tuttle Publishing, Flamingo, London, 1994.
The Art of India: Traditions of Indian Boston, 1994. Elsewhere: Unusual Takes on India Kai
Sculpture, Painting and Architecture Malgudi Days RK Narayan, Viking, New Friese (ed), Penguin India, New
Stella Kramrisch, Phaidon, New York, 1982. Delhi, 2001.
York, 1954. Midnight’s Children Salman Rushdie, India By Rail Royston Ellis, Bradt
The Essence of Indian Art (exhibition Penguin, London, 1991. Publications, UK, 1997.
catalogue), Asian Art Museum of Such a Long Journey Rohinton Mistry, In the Court of the Fish-Eyed Goddess
San Francisco, 1986. Faber & Faber, London, 1991. William Dalrymple, HarperCollins,
The New Cambridge History of India: Sunlight on a Broken Column Attiya New Delhi, 1998.
Architecture and Art of the Deccan Hussain, Virago Press, London, 1988. Sikkim: A Traveller’s Guide Sujoy Das,
Sultanates George Michell and The Far Pavilions MM Kaye, Permanent Black, New Delhi, 2001.
Mark Zebrowski, Cambridge St Martin’s Press, New York, 1978. Slowly Down the Ganges Eric Newby,
University Press, Cambridge, 1999. The Glass Palace Amitav Ghosh, Ravi Lonely Planet Publications,
The New Cambridge History of India: Dayal, New Delhi, 2000. Hawthorn, 1998.
Mughal and Rajput Painting Milo C The God of Small Things Arundhati The Goddess in the Stones Norman
Beach, Cambridge University Press, Roy, IndiaInk, New Delhi, 1999. Lewis, TransAtlantic Publications
Cambridge, 1992. The House of Blue Mangoes David
Inc, Philadelphia, 1995.
Tradition & Beyond: Handcrafted Indian Davidar, Viking in association with The Great Railway Bazaar Paul Theroux,
Textiles Rta Kapur Chishti and Rahul Weidenfeld & Nicolson, New Delhi,
Jain, Roli Books, New Delhi, 2000. 2002. Viking, London, 1995.
Traditions of Indian Classical Dance The Jungle Books Rudyard Kipling, Travels on my Elephant Mark Shand,
Mohan Khokar, Clarion Books, New Lancer Books, New York, 1968. Penguin India, New Delhi, 1993.
Delhi, 1979. The Raj Quartet Paul Scott, Travels through Sacred India Roger
William Morrow and Company, Thorsons Housden, HarperCollins,
Nature and Wildlife New York, 1976. London, 1996.
Collins Handguide to Birds of the Indian The Shadow Lines Amitav Ghosh, Ravi Travels with a Tangerine: A Journey in
Subcontinent Martin, Williams Dayal, New Delhi, 1988. the Footnotes of Ibn Battuta Tim
Woodcock, Collins Sons & Co, Those Days Sunil Gangopadhyaya, Mackintosh Smith, John Murray,
London, 1980. Penguin, New Delhi, 1997. London, 2001.

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794  GL OSSAR Y

Glossary

Architecture lhakhang Mahayana Buddhist meenakari enamel work (p365)
amalaka circular ribbed stone temple in Ladakh and Himachal mela fair, fête
atop a Hindu temple tower Pradesh Natya Shastra ancient Sanskrit
apsara celestial maiden (p240) mahal palace treatise on dance
bagh garden mandapa pillared hall leading to nautanki vaudeville
bangaldar roof curved roof, like a Hindu temple sanctuary pandit learned Sanskrit scholar, wise
those on thatched huts in Bengal mandir Hindu temple elder or priest
(p294) mani stones/mani walls stones pattachitra religious paintings
baoli stone-clad stepwell, with carved with sacred Mahayana from Odisha (p317)
galleries on its sides (see vav) Buddhist chants phad long painted cloth scroll from
baradari 12-pillared pavilion masjid mosque Rajasthan (p385)
bhavan house or abode mihrab arched niche in a mosque pichhwai a vibrant form of painting
bhulbhulaiya labyrinth that faces west towards Mecca on cloth from Rajasthan, depicting
chaitya rock-cut Buddhist shrine pol fortified gateway 27 scenes from the Krishna legend
chaitya griha prayer hall in a prakara wall enclosing South Indian (p403)
rock-cut Buddhist shrine (p24) Hindu temple compound qawwals Sufi musicians
charbagh formal Mughal garden, qila fort raga melodic structure with a
divided into four quarters (p25) salabhanjika tree nymph (p249) fixed sequence of musical notes
chhatri, cenotaph small shikhara spire of a North Indian rasa mood or emotion;
ornamental pavilion or kiosk, Hindu temple (p24) also essence
topped by a cupola; also pavilion tharavad ancestral home in sati the custom of a widow
with a canopy, built at the site Kerala; also matrilineal clan immolating herself on her
of a royal cremation torana ceremonial gateway, usually husband’s funeral pyre
chorten Mahayana Buddhist leading to a religious site satyagraha a form of non-violent,
reliquary shrine or memorial stupa tshog-khang/jokhang secondary moral protest started by Mahatma
chowk courtyard in a palace or fort; assembly hall in a Buddhist Gandhi
also main square in a city monastery in Ladakh or Himachal Shilpa Shastra ancient Sanskrit
dargah shrine of a Muslim saint Pradesh treatise on sculpture
darwaza door or gateway vav stepwell in Gujarat (p418) shishya disciple
Diwan-i-Aam Hall of Public vihara Buddhist monastery tala rhythm/rhythmic cycle in
Audience vimana multi-staged pyramidal classical Indian music
Diwan-i-Khas Hall of Private spire above the inner sanctum of a thangka scroll painting framed in
Audience South Indian Hindu temple silk, depicting Mahayana Buddhist
dukhang assembly hall in a yakshi female attendant deities (p127)
Mahayana Buddhist monastery yali fierce mythical leonine creature thumri light classical music, sung in
dvarapala guardian deities near yogini attendant, or manifestation, North India
Hindu temple doorways; literally, of Devi, a form of Parvati
doorkeeper (p28) zenana area of a palace or house Dress
garbhagriha womb chamber or where women live in seclusion bindi circular dot on forehead
inner sanctum in a Hindu temple chappal handcrafted leather
garh fort Crafts and Culture slippers; sandals
ghat steps on river bank; also asanas physical postures in Yoga chikankari finely embroidered
a hilly range Ayurveda ancient Indian system cotton textile from
gompa Mahayana Buddhist of medicine, largely based on plants Lucknow
monastery in Himachal Pradesh, (p633) choli tight-fitting blouse
Ladakh and Arunachal Pradesh Baramasa series of paintings or ghaghara/lehenga women’s
gonkhang temple of the guardian verses depicting the seasons; gathered skirt (p35)
deities in a gompa literally 12 months juttis traditional leather shoes
gopura towering pyramidal dhurrie woven cotton rug with pointed or upturned toes
gateway in a South Indian Hindu ganjifa cards painted, circular kurta long stitched shirt (p35)
temple complex (p614) playing cards (p30) mukut crown
gurdwara Sikh temple (p25) gharana school of classical music or odhni/dupatta women’s veil
hamam traditional steam bath of dance (p32) or long scarf (p34)
the Turkish type ikat textile pattern where the yarn is pallav end-piece of a sari (p34)
haveli large traditional town resist-dyed or tie-dyed before being safa/pagri turban (p34)
house or mansion, with inner woven (p323) salwar loose pantaloons, tapered at
courtyards (p391) jauhar mass suicide by the ankle (p34)
jali ornamental pierced or latticed immolation practised by Rajput sarpech jewelled turban
stone screen (p179) women, to escape dishonour at the ornament (p669)
jharokha decorative projecting hands of their captors sherwani long formal coat
balcony (p391) -ji honorific suffix added to a for men (p35)
kalasha pot-like finial crowning a person’s name topi cap (p35)
Hindu temple spire (p25) kundankari inlay work with zardozi elaborate gold thread
khirkee window gems (p365) embroidery (p175)
kund tank or lake kushti Indian style of wrestling zari gold thread




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GL OSSAR Y  795

Religion Mahayana “Greater Vehicle” Miscellaneous
aarti Hindu prayer ritual with oil or school of Buddhism which adivasi tribal person
butter lamps emphasizes the importance akash sky
ahimsa doctrine of non-violence of Bodhisattvas attar/ittar perfume, usually distilled
alams ceremonial standards used by mandala circular diagram from flowers
Shia Muslims during Muharram symbol izing the universe, used as badal cloud
(p673) an aid to meditation by Buddhists bagh tiger
amrit divine nectar of immortality mantra meditational Hindu or basti settlement or slum; also Jain
ashram Hindu spiritual centre or Buddhist chant temple complex
religious retreat matha Hindu or Jain religious chaugan ancient Persian form of
avatar incarnation of a Hindu deity centre polo, played with a curved stick
(p683) maya Hindu concept of illusion diya oil or butter lamp
bhajans Hindu devotional songs moksha Hindu term for salvation dhaba roadside eatery (p183)
bhakti cult of intense personal mudra symbolic hand gestures durbar royal court or royal
devotion to God, without going namaaz Muslim daily prayers gathering; audience held
through priests navaratri nine-day fasting period by a ruler
Bodhisattvas highly enlightened preceding the Hindu festivals of dzo cross between yak and cow
Mahayana Buddhist beings who Ramnavami and Dussehra gali lane or narrow alleyway
refuse nirvana so that they can Om sacred Buddhist and Hindu ghee clarified butter
devote themselves to the service syllable, invoking the divine gulal coloured powder used during
of others parikrama clockwise circumam the Holi festival (p39)
chador ceremonial cloth to cover bulation of a Hindu or Buddhist haat open-air market, usually held
Muslim saint’s grave; literally, holy site once a week
a sheet prasad specially consecrated food howdah ceremonial seat on an
chakra discus or wheel; also from a Hindu or Sikh temple elephant’s back
Buddhist symbol of eight-spoked puja Hindu prayer ritual kettuvallam Kerala rice boat (p637)
wheel, representing the Eightfold ratha temple chariot kheda elephant corral
Path of Righteousness samadhi memorial platform at machaan raised observation
darshan an auspicious sighting Hindu cremation site platform in a forest
of a Hindu deity, religious person, sangam holy confluence of rivers mahout elephant trainer
temple or holy river; also formal Shaivite devotee of Lord Shiva marg major road
audience given by a ruler or Shia a sect of Islam that reveres mayil/mayur peacock
holy man the Prophet Mohammed’s cousin nava ratna nine principle jewels
devadasi Hindu temple dancer Ali and his successors as the nawab Muslim prince
dharamshala rest house for pilgrims true imams paan betel leaf, a digestive (p169)
dorje thunderbolt symbol in Sufi mystical Islamic philosophy pandal marquee or decorated stage
Mahayana Buddhism Sunni a sect of Islam to which made of cloth and bamboo
dukka ablution tank in a the majority of Indian Muslims padma lotus
mosque complex belong; Sunnis follow traditional prithvi earth
Gangajal holy water from the Islamic law, believed to be based purnima full moon
Ganges river on the words and acts of the pushpa flower
gopis Lord Krishna’s milkmaid Prophet Mohammed pyav drinking water fountain
companions takhts principal seats of Sikhism rumal handkerchief or square cloth
Hinayana “Small Vehicle” school tandava nritya Shiva’s cosmic dance sagar large lake or reservoir; also
of Buddhism practised in parts of destruction (p594) ocean or sea
of India, Sri Lanka and Thailand, tazia ornately decorated tower of shikar hunting expedition
which emphasizes the impor tance wood, metal and paper carried by shila stone
of an ascetic, monastic way Shia Muslims at Muharram tal lake
of life thiru/tiru holy taluka sub-district
imam Muslim religious leader tirtha Hindu holy place, usually near thakur Hindu chieftain
imambara shrine of a Shia sacred river or tank thali platter
Muslim holy man; ceremonial halls tirthankaras the 24 religious thuggees highway bandits
used by Shia Muslims during teachers worshipped by Jains vayu air
Muharram (p201) trishul trident carried by Hindu god, zamindar landowner
Jataka Tales stories based on Lord Shiva
legends of the Buddha’s previous tuk fortified cluster of Jain temples
lives (p484) tulsi the sacred basil plant
jyotirlinga linga symbolizing Urs festival commemorating a
Shiva’s energy, believed to have Muslim saint
miraculously materialized out of vahanas vehicles of Hindu gods
light; found in the 12 most sacred Vaishnavite devotee of Hindu
sites linked to Shiva god, Lord Vishnu
kumbh cosmic pot holding the Vedas the oldest known Indian
nectar of immortality (amrit) texts, written in Sanskrit, codifying
linga phallic emblem representing Aryan beliefs and principles
the Hindu god Shiva vibhuti sacred ash
madrasa Islamic theological yagna Hindu ritual sacrifice
school yatra Hindu pilgrimage




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796  PHR ASEBOOK

Phrase Book

India has 18 major regional languages, many with their own scripts. While Hindi, spoken by 30 per cent of the
people and widely understood throughout India, is the official national language, other languages enjoy
predominance in their respective regions. Our phrase book covers five languages, four of them spoken in
India’s four largest cities and their surrounding regions: Hindi (spoken in Delhi); Bengali (spoken in Kolkata);
Marathi (spoken in Mumbai); and Tamil (spoken in Chennai). The fifth language, Malayalam, is spoken in
Kerala. While Hindi, Bengali and Marathi are Indo-European languages, descended from Sanskrit, Tamil and
Malayalam are Dravidian languages, unrelated to the Indo-European group, though influenced by Sanskrit
over the centuries. English is widely spoken and understood throughout the country and serves as a link
language between the different regions. One can get by with English almost anywhere in India, but most
Indians are delighted and warmly appreciative if a visitor makes an attempt to speak their language.

Hindi How far is …? … Kitni door hai? expensive hai
I don’t know Pata nahin Could you lower Daam thoda kam
In an Emergency All right Achha/Theek hai the price a bit? kariyé
How about
Abhi/Isi waqt
xx rupeye laingé?
Now/Instantly
Help! Bachao! Well done! Shabash! xx rupees?
Stop! Roko! See you Phir milengé I’ll settle for xx rupeye mein
Call a doctor! Doctor ko bulao! Go away! Hat jao/Hato xx rupees dena hai to dijiyé
Where is the Yahan phone kahan I don’t want it Mujhe nahin chahiye
nearest hai? Not now Abhi nahin Staying in a Hotel
telephone?
Useful Words Do you have Aapke hotel mein
Communication any vacant khali kamre hain
Essentials Which? Kaun sa? rooms? kya?
Yes Haan Who? Kaun? What is the Ek raat ka kiraya
kya hai?
Garam
charge per
Hot
No Na/Naheen Cold Thanda night?
Thank you Dhanyavad/Shukria Good Achha Can I see the Kya mein pehle
Please Kripaya/Meharbani Bad Kharaab room first? kamra dekh sakta
sé Enough Bus/Kafi hai hoon?
Excuse me/Sorry Kshama karen/ Open Khula Key Chaabhi
Maaf karen Closed Bundh Soap Sabun
Hello/Goodbye Namasté Left Baayan Towel Tauliya
Stop Rook jao Right Daayan Hot/Cold water Garam/Thanda
Let’s go Chalo Straight on Seedha pani
Straight ahead Seedha Near Paas/Nazdeek
Big/Small Bara/Chhota Quickly Jaldi Eating Out
This/That Yeh/Voh Late Der sé
Near/Far Paas/Door Later Baad mein Breakfast Nashta
Way Raasta Entrance Pravesh Food Khaana
Road Sarak Exit Nikas Water Pani
Yesterday Beeta hua kal Behind Peechhé Ice Baraf
Today Aaj Full Bhara Tea Chai
Tomorrow Aane wala kal Empty Khali Coffee Kaufi
Here Yahaan Toilet Shauchaalaya Sugar Cheeni
There Wahaan Free/No charge Nih shulka/Muft Salt Namak
What? Kya? Direction Disha Milk Doodh
Where? Kahaan? Book Kitaab Yoghurt Dahi
When? Kab? Newspaper Akhbaar Egg Anda
Why? Kyon? Fruit Phal
How? Kaisé? Vegetable Sabzi
Up Upar Shopping Rice Chaawal
Down Neeché How much Iska kya daam hai? Pulses Dal
More Aur zyada does this cost? (lentil, split
A little Thora I would like… Mujhe … chahiye peas etc)
Before Pehlé Do you have…? Kya aap ké paas Fixed Ek daam menu
Opposite/ Saamné … hai? price menu
Facing I am just looking Abhi dekh rahen Is it spicy? Mirch-masala tez
Very Bahut hain hai kya?
Less Kam Does it come Yeh dooserey Make it less Mirch-masala kam,
Louder/Harder Zor sé in other rangon main bhi spicy please theek hai?
Softly/Gently Dheeré sé colours? aata hai kya? Knife Chhuri
Go Jao This one Yeh wala Fork Kanta
Come Aao That one Voh wala Spoon Chammach
Black Kaala Finished Khatam
Useful Phrases Blue Neela
How are you? Aap kaisé hain? White Safed Numbers
What is Aapka naam kya Red Lal 1 Ek
Peela
Yellow
your name? hai? Green Hara 2 Do
My name is … Mera naam … hai Brown Bhura 3 Teen
Do you Angrezi ati hai? 4 Char
speak English? Cheap Sasta 5 Panch
I understand Samajh gaya (male)/ Expensive Mehanga 6 Chhé
Tailor
Darzi
gayi (female) 7 Saat
I don’t Nahin samjha (m)/ 8 Aath
understand samjhi (f) Bargaining 9 Nau
What is the Kya baja hai? How much is Yeh kitne ka hai? 10 Dus
time? this? 11 Gyarah
Where is …? … Kahaan hai? How much Kya logé? 12 Barah
What is this? Yeh kya hai? will you take? 13 Terah
Hurry up Jaldi karo That’s a little Yeh to mehanga 14 Chaudah
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PHR ASEBOOK  797


15 Pandrah 100 Sau A day Ek din
16 Solah 1,000 Hazar A week Ek haftah
17 Satrah 100,000 Lakh Monday Somwar
18 Atharah 10,000,000 Karod (crore) Tuesday Mangalwar
19 Unnees Wednesday Budhwar
20 Bees Time Thursday Veerwar
30 Tees Friday Shukrawar
40 Chalees One minute Ek minit Saturday Shaniwar
50 Pachaas One hour Ek ghanta Sunday Raviwar
60 Saath Half an hour Aadha ghanta Morning Subah
70 Sattar Quarter hour Pauna ghanta Afternoon Dopahar
80 Assi Half past one Derh Evening Shaam
90 Nabbé Half past two Dhai Night Raat
Bengali Now/Instantly Ekkhuni I’ll settle for xx takar beshi debo
Well done! Bah! xx rupees na
See you Aashi
In an Emergency
Go away! Jao Staying in a Hotel
Help! Shahaajjo korun! I don’t want it Chai na Do you have Ghor khaali
Stop! Thamun! Not now Ekhon na any vacant aachhey?
Call a doctor! Daktar dakun! rooms?
Where is the Ekhanay phone Useful Words What is the Ek raater bhaara
nearest kothai? Which? Konta? charge per night? koto?
telephone?
Who? Kay? Can I see the Aagey ghor dekhte
Hot Gorom room first? paari?
Communication Cold Thanda Key Chaabi
Essentials Good Bhalo Soap Shaabaan
Yes Haen Bad Khaaraap Towel Towaaley
No Na Enough Bus Hot/Cold water Gorom/Thanda jol
Thank you Dhonnobad Open Khola
Please Doya koray Closed Bondho Eating Out
Excuse me/ Maap korben Left Baayen Breakfast Jolkhaabaar
Sorry Right Daayiné Food Khaabaar
Hello/Goodbye Nomoshkar Straight on Shojaa Water Jol
Stop Thamun Near Kaachhey Ice Borof
Let’s go Cholun Quickly Taarataari Tea Chaa
Straight ahead Shoja Late Deri Coffee Koffee
Big/Small Boro/Chhoto Later Porey Sugar Cheeni
This/That Eta/Ota Entrance Probesh Salt Noon
Near/Far Kaachhé/Dooré Exit Prosthaan Milk Doodh
Way Raasta Behind Pechhoney Yoghurt Dohi
Road Raasta Full Bhora Egg Deem
Yesterday Goto kaal Empty Khaali Fruit Phol
Today Aaj Toilet Shauchaalaya Vegetable Shobji
Tomorrow Kaal Free/No charge Bina poisha Rice Bhaat
Here Ekhaané Direction Disha Pulses Daal
There Okhaané Book Boi (lentils, split
What? Ki? Magazine Potrika peas etc)
Where? Kothayé? Newspaper Khoborer kagoj Fixed Ek daam menu
When? Kokhon? price menu
Why? Kaeno? Shopping Is it spicy? Jhaal ki?
How? Ki koray? How much Koto? Make it less spicy Beshi jhaal chaai na
Up Opor does this cost? Knife Chhuri
Down Neeché I would like… Aami chaai Fork Kanta
More Aaro Do you have…? Aapnaar kaachhe Spoon Chaamoch
A little Ektu aachhe? Finished Shesh
Before Aagey I am just looking Shudhu dekchhi
Opposite/ Shaamney Does it come Aaro rong Numbers
Facing in other aachhey?
Very Khoob colours? 1 2 Ek
Dooi
Less Kom This one Eta
Louder/Harder Jorey That one Ota 3 Teen
Softly/Gently Aastey Black Kaalo 4 Chaar
Go Jao Blue Neel 5 6 Paanch
Chhoy
Come Esho White Shaadaa
Red Laal 7 Shaat
Useful Phrases Yellow Holud 8 9 Aath
Noy
How are you? Kaemon aachhen? Green Shobuj 10 Dosh
What is Aapnaar naam ki? Brown Khoiri 11 Egaro
your name? Cheap Shostaa 12 Baaro
My name is … Aamaar naam … Expensive Daami 13 Tero
Do you Ingriji bolen? Tailor Dorji 14 Chaudoh
speak English? 15 Ponero
I understand Bujhi Bargaining 16 Sholo
I don’t Bujhi na How much is Eta koto? 17 Shotero
understand this? 18 Aathero
What is the Kota bajé? How much Koto neben? 19 Unneesh
time? will you take? 20 Kuri/Beesh
Where is …? … Kothhai? That’s a Beshi daam 30 Tirish
What is this? Eta ki? little expensive 40 Cholleesh
Hurry up Taarataari Could you lower Ektu komaan 50 Ponchaash
How far is …? … Koto door? the price a bit? 60 Shaat
I don’t know Jaani na How about xx taka cholbé? 70 Shottor
All right Theek achhey xx rupees? 80 Aashi
796-800_EW_India.indd 797 26/04/17 11:51 am

798  PHR ASEBOOK

90 Nobboi One hour Ek ghonta Wednesday Budhbar
100 Eksho Half an hour Aadh ghonta Thursday Bishuttbar
1,000 Haajaar Quarter hour Pauney ghonta Friday Shukkurbar
100,000 Lakh Half past one Derh Saturday Shonibar
10,000,000 Koti Half past two Aadhai Sunday Robibar
A day Ek din Morning Shokaal
Time A week Ek shopta Afternoon Duphur
Monday Shombar Evening Bikel
One minute Ek minit Tuesday Mongolbar Night Raat
Marathi Useful Words Soap Saban
Which? Konté? Towel Towel
Hot/Cold water
Garam/Thanda
In an Emergency Who? Kon? pani
Help! Vachva! Hot Garam
Stop! Thamba! Cold Thanda Eating Out
Call a doctor! Doctorana bolwaa! Good Changla Breakfast Nasta
Bad
Vait
Where is the Ithé jawal phone Enough Puré Food Jewan
nearest kuthé aahé? Open Ughadé Water Pani
telephone? Closed Banda Ice Barpha
Left Davikadé Tea Chaha
Communication Essentials Right Uzavikadé Coffee Kofi
Yes Ho Straight on Saral Sugar Saakhar
No Nahi Near Zawal Salt Mith
Thank you Dhanyavad Quickly Lavkar Milk Doodh
Please krupaya Late Ushira Yoghurt Dahi
Excuse me/ Kshama pahijé Later Nanthar Egg Andé
Sorry Entrance Pravesh Fruit Phal
Hello/ Namaskar Exit Baaher Vegetable Bhaji
Goodbye Behind Maagé Rice Bhath
Stop Thamba Full Bharalelé Pulses (lentils, Dal
Let’s go Chala Empty Rikamé split peas etc)
Straight ahead Saral Toilet Shauchaalaya Fixed Ekach bhav
Big/Small Mota/Lahan Free/No charge Mophat price menu
This/That Hé/Thé Direction Disha Is it spicy? Tikhat aahé ka?
Near/Far Zawal/Laamb Book Pusthak Make it less Har tikhat
Way Marga Magazine Maasik spicy please nakon bara ka?
Road Rastha Newspaper Vartaman patra Knife Suri
Yesterday Kaal Fork Kata
Today Aaj Shopping Spoon Chammcha
Tomorrow Udya Finished Samplé
Here Ithé How much? Hé kevdyala?
There Tithé does this cost Numbers
What? Kay? I would like… Mala… hava hotha 1 Ek
Where? Kuthé? Do you have…? Tumechyakadé … 2 Don
When? Kenhvah? aahé ka? 3 Teen
Why? Ka? I am just looking Ajun bagté/Aahé 4 Char
bagto
How? Kasè? 5 Pach
Up Varti Does it come? Aankhi ranga 6 Saha
Down Khali in other colours aahetka? 7 Sath
More Aankhi This one Hé 8 Aath
A little Thodé That one Té 9 Nou
Before Aadhi Black Kaala 10 Daha
Opposite/ Samor Blue Neelé 11 Akara
Facing White Pandhra 12 Barah
Very Khoop Red Lal 13 Terah
Less Kami Yellow Piwala 14 Chawda
Louder/Harder Mothyané/ Green Hirvva 15 Pandhra
Zorané Brown Chocoleti 16 Solah
Softly/Gently Haloo Cheap Svastha 17 Satara
Go Za Expensive Mahaag 18 Atharah
Come Ya Tailor Shimpi 19 Ekonees
Useful Phrases Bargaining 20 Vees
Tees
30
How are you? Kasa Kain? How much is He kevdhyala? 40 Chalees
What is Apla nao? this? 50 Pannas
your name? How much Kithi dyayché? 60 Saath
My name is … Maajhe nao … will you take? 70 Sattar
Do you Inglish yeté ka? That’s a little Zara mahaag aahe 80 Aishi
speak English? expensive 90 Nauwad
I understand Samazté Could you lower Zara kami karana 100 Shambhar
I don’t Kalale nahin the price a bit? ka? 1,000 Hazaar
understand How about? Xx rupyé 100,000 Lakh
What is the Kiti vajlé? xx rupees thik aahé? 10,000,000 Koti
time? I’ll settle for Xx barobar
Where is …? Kuthé aahé? xx rupees aahé Time
What is this? Hé kay aahé?
Hurry up Aatpa lavkar Staying in a Hotel One minute Ek minit
How far is …? Kiti laamb aahé? One hour Ek taas
I don’t know Mahiti nahin Do you have Tumchya hotel Half an hour Ardha taas
All right Theek aahé any vacant madhé jagaa aahé Quarter hour Pandhra minit
Now/Instantly Aathach rooms? ka? Half past one Deed
Well done! Chhan! What is the Eka ratri Half past two Adhich
See you Bhétuya charge per ché kiti A day Ek divas
Go away! Chalta ho night? A week Ek athavda
I don’t want it Nakoy Can I see the Mee aadhi kholi Monday Somwar
malaa room first? baghoon ka? Tuesday Mangalwar
Not now Aatha naahin Key Killi Wednesday Budhwar
796-800_EW_India.indd 798 26/04/17 11:51 am


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