(DK Eyewitness) Travel Guide - India

MUMBAI  449





D
LO K M A N YA T I L A K R O A D
KANTILAL M SHARMA STREET R O A D M R A MARG L O R O A

HAZARIMAL SOMANI MARG I N A O R O J I ( D N )
RD
KALBADEVI
A PODAR D M ' E L 0 metres 400 400
0 yards
MARG
F RD M A H A PA L I K A M G St George's P
Hospital
Bombay
AZAD Corporation A Chowk Chhatrapati (Indira) Dock
Municipal
Shivaji Terminus
NETAJI SUBHASH CHANDRA ROAD (MARINE DRIVE) Brabourne E R O A D Churchgate NARIMAN ROAD PHEROZSHAH MEHT A MARG PERIN NARIMAN ST Marshall COCHIN ST K A M A N I M A R G AND HIRACHAND MARG
MAIDAN
CST Station
Wankhede
Nagar
Alexandra
M AH ARSHI KAR VE R OAD
D R D A D A B H
M A R Z A B A N R O A D
WALCH
A M R I T M A R G
Bank of India NGH MARG
Grand
D R D
Hotel
C R D
Building
Back
MAHATMA GANDHI
Old
B R D
MAIDAN
Customs
Bay
House
S R I VI T H A L D A S T H A C K E R E Y M A R G
R
Watcha
Stadium (Q UEE N'S ROA D )
KARMAVEER BHAURAO PATIL MG
A R D
Agiary
S H O O R J I VA L L A B H D A S MAR G
MINT
Old Reserve
GHOGA ST
VEER
SI
CROSS (MG)
St Thomas'
JAMSHETJI TATA ROAD
ROAD
Cathedral
APOLLO STREET
Stadium
OVAL
HOMI MODI ST
State Bank
MAIDAN
of India
DR V B G BHAGAT
Naval
Dockyard
DINSHA WACHA RD
DALAL ST
Shivaji Terminus (see pp458–9)
K DUBASH MG HAHID
MG
JEEVAN BIMA MARG
Cowasji
S
BNHS
YMCA
MADAME CAMA ROAD
International
NCPA BARRISTER RAJNI PATEL MARG MAHARISHI KARVE ROAD Jehangir Hall A D O S H I M G Police HQ Doubledecker bus at Chhatrapati
PUBLIC
NATHALAL PAREKH MARG ( WODEHOUSE RD) R O A D Hotel Bunder Gateway of India Greater Malad Sight Thane
Nariman J BAJAJ MARG COOPERAGE MG GARDEN Regal Dhunraj Mahal
Point FREE PRESS JOURNAL JAGANNATHRAO BHOSLE MG COOPERAGE Leopold LANSDOWNE ST C H H AT R A PAT I S H I VA J I M A H A R A J M A R G Key
MARG
Royal Bombay
Yacht Club
Café
MAIDAN
GARDEN RD MEREWEATHER ROAD

Taj
Mahal
Railroad

P J RAMCHANDANI MG
Colaba Bus
Station
Apollo
ORMISTON ROAD
National Highway (Inset map)

CUSROW
HENRY
BAUG
WALTON
Major road (Inset map)

ROAD
Ferry Terminal
APOLLO BUNDER RD
SHAHID BHAGAT SINGH MARG (COLABA CAUSEWAY) Sassoon L A L A STREET Market Mumbai NH8 Santa CSI Trombay Mumbai
Colaba
C A P TA I N P P E T H E M A R G
NH4
NIGAM
Andheri
New
NH3
Docks
Cruz
Arabian
Sea
C A P TA I N P P E T H E M A R G Getting Around Nhave
Three suburban railway lines link the
northern suburbs to the city centre and
C U F F E PA R A D E
red BEST buses are convenient ways to
H O M I B H A B H A R O A D the southern tip. A taxi, private car or the Mumbai 0 kilometres 10
get around within the city. In the suburbs, 0 miles 10
you can only use the auto-rickshaws.
For keys to symbols see back flap
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450  SOUTHWESTERN INDIA





















The Gateway of India with the red-domed Taj Mahal Hotel behind it
1 Gateway of India into the horizon beyond it. This by a prominent Parsi industrialist,
is the heart of Mumbai’s tourist Jamshedji Tata (see p229) who,
Apollo Bunder, Chhatrapati Shivaji
Marg & PJ Ramchandani Marg. 4 district, the city’s most popular it is said, decided to construct
gathering place, and is always this magnificent hotel when he
Mumbai’s most famous teeming with with locals, visitors, was barred from entering the
landmark, the Gateway of India, vendors and boatmen. Boats and “Whites Only” Watson’s Hotel.
was the first sight to greet barges moored here provide The Taj, with its splendid Moorish
travellers to Indian shores during regular services across the bay arches and columns, majestic
the heyday of the British Raj. and to islands such as Elephanta stairways and galleries, remains
Ironically, it also became the (see p465). They can also be hired one of Asia’s grandest hotels,
exit point for British troops for leisurely trips down the while Watson’s, also known as
after India gained Mumbai coastline. “Esplanade Mansion”, is now
independence in North of the Gateway of India, a dilapidated building, the
1947. It was built to towards Wellington Fountain, hotel having closed down
commemorate the is Chhatrapati Shivaji long ago.
visit of King George V Road. Formerly Apollo The eastern sea face
and Queen Mary in Pier Road, it has been stretching in front of the
1911, en route to the renamed after Gateway of India is Mumbai’s
Delhi Durbar, but in Shivaji (see p475), favourite promenade. Called
fact, the King and Maharashtra’s Apollo Bunder, it was once
Queen were met with great warrior-hero. the traditional dockyard of the
a mock card board Shivaji’s equestrian local Koli fishermen, the islands’
structure – the statue is placed original inhabitants. Today,
actual Triumphal here in a pleasant astro logers and ear-cleaners
Arch, built in Statue of Chhatrapati Shivaji garden, in line hustle for business among
honey-coloured opposite the Gateway with the Gateway. pedestrians. Dozens of yachts,
Kharodi basalt, was Standing nearby fishing boats and ferries are
completed only in 1924, years is the statue of the 19th- century moored in the waters beyond.
after the royal visit. Later, it Hindu philosopher and reformist
became the ceremonial entrance Swami Vivekananda (see p619).
to India for viceroys and new Around the Gateway are some
governors of the city. This 26-m majestic buildings dating from
(85-ft) high monument, with two the colonial era. These include
large reception halls, arches and the old Yacht Club, which now
minarets, and embellish ments houses the offices of the Atomic
inspired by 16th-century Gujarati Energy Commission (entry
architecture, was designed by restricted), the Royal Bombay
the Scottish architect George Yacht Club, originally built as a
Wittet in Indo-Saracenic style. residential annexe to the Old
The Gateway commands a Yacht Club, and the Taj Mahal
spectacular view of the sea and Hotel, behind which lies the
looks particularly impressive at busy Colaba Causeway.
night, when it is illuminated, The stately, red-domed Taj The Royal Bombay Yacht Club, a relic of the
with the inky black sea stretching Mahal Hotel was built in 1903 British Raj
For hotels and restaurants in this region see p700 and pp714–15


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MUMBAI  451


established in 1871, and a
popular meeting place ever
since. Further south are the
Sassoon Docks, worth visiting
early in the morning when they
are buzzing with activity. This
is when the fishermen bring in
their catch and a wholesale fish
market is set up by the lively
and professional Koli fishwives.
At the southern end of Colaba
is the Afghan Memorial Church
of St John the Evangelist,
The entrance to Cusrow Baug, a Parsi enclave along Colaba built between 1847 and 1858
(see p25). This grand Neo-Gothic
2 Wellington Shivaji Maharaj Vastu structure, with a 60-m (197-ft)
Fountain Sangrahalaya (see pp454–5). bell tower and imposing front
Adjoining it is Hornbill House, porch in buff basalt stone, was
Bounded by MG Rd, Shahid Bhagat the headquarters of the Bombay built in memory of the soldiers
Singh Marg, Chhatrapati Shivaji Natural History Society (BNHS), a who died in the First Anglo-
Marg & Madame Cama Rd.
prestigious insti tution established Afghan War (1839–42), and the
Built to commemorate the Duke in 1883. church is full of memorial stones.
of Wellington’s visit to Bombay in It has superb stained glass,
1801, Wellington Fountain (now especially on its windows, where
renamed Dr Shyama Prasad 3 Colaba Causeway an outstanding panel depicts
Mukherjee Chowk) is encircled Shahid Bhagat Singh Marg. Afghan the Crucifixion. A tribute to the
by magnificent colonial buildings. Memorial Church: Open daily. martyrs stands in the garden.
These include the old Majestic 5 7am & 4:30pm, Sun.
Hotel (now the government-
owned Sahakari Bhandar) with Constructed by the British in
its mock minarets and Gujarati 1838, Colaba Causeway helped
balconies, and the Art Deco integrate the main city with
Regal Cinema, designed by Colaba, its southernmost spur.
Charles Stevens and completed Today, the posh Causeway, also
in 1933. His father, Frederick known as Shahid Bhagat Singh
William Stevens, designed the Road (see p460), is an eclectic
imposing grey stone Indo-Gothic mix of shops, restaurants and
Royal Alfred Sailors’ Home, with a residential enclaves. Among
bas-relief of Neptune on its front them is the charming Parsi
gable, in 1876; it is now the housing colony of Cusrow
Maharashtra State Police Baug, built in 1934, where the
Headquarters. Equally impressive distinct culture and lifestyle of
are the Edwardian Cowasjee this dwindling community is
Jehangir Hall by George Wittet, preserved. The Causeway’s
now the National Gallery of many restaurants include one
Modern Art (see p453), and the that has become an institution, Fishermen bringing in the day’s catch at
Indo-Saracenic Chhatrapati the Leopold Café and Bar , the Sassoon Docks

The Parsi Community in Mumbai
Mumbai’s cosmopolitan, progressive culture owes a great deal to the
contribution of the Parsi community. Originally from Iran, where they
followed the ancient Zoroastrian faith, they migrated to India in the
10th century AD when the advent of Islam brought with it the religious
persecution of Zoroastrians. They settled along the west coast of Gujarat,
absorbing many local traditions, and later moved to Mumbai, where they
made their name as brilliant financiers and traders. Often, they adopted
the name of their trade, and so one finds Parsi surnames such as Mistry
(mason) and Vakil (lawyer), or even Readymoney! A wealthy and talented
community that has produced several leading industrial houses, such
as the Tatas and the Godrejs, Parsis are also renowned for their
Ratan Tata, an eminent personality philanthropy and have founded several cultural, educational and
of the Parsi community medical institutions in Mumbai.





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4 Street-by-Street: Kala Ghoda

Kala Ghoda, or “Black Horse”, was named after an equestrian
statue of King Edward VII that once stood at the intersection
of Mahatma Gandhi Road and K Dubash Marg. The name
persists in public memory, thanks in part to the large mural
of a black horse that commemorates it. Stretching from
Welling ton Fountain, at the southern end of Mahatma Gandhi
Road, to Mumbai University at the north, and flanked by the
Oval Maidan and the naval base at Lion Gate, this area is a
hub of cultural activity. It houses a number of art galleries,
restaurants and fine shops and boutiques, and hosts the
famous annual Kala Ghoda Arts Festival in February. David Sassoon Library
The garden behind the
library serves as a
Flora Fountain reading area.
Chhatrapati
ASH LANE
Shivaji Terminus
A DOSHI MARG D A L A L S T R E E T

ELDON


ROAD
ROAD
M A H A T M A G A N D H I R O A D

. Rajabai Clock Tower
This 85-m (280-ft) high UNIVERSITY
tower in Mumbai University
is adorned with figures
representing different
Indian communities.
A S D M E L L O R O A D
Mumbai University
complex



B H A U R A O PAT I L M A R G

. High Court
This fortress-like building, the second-largest public Esplanade Mansion,
building in the city, has a grand central staircase, formerly Watson’s Hotel,
well-appointed court rooms, and a large library. witnessed the city’s first
motion picture in 1896.
Old Secretariat



Army & Navy Building
The Neo-Classical
Army & Navy Building,
0 metres 50 a departmental store
0 yards 50 in the early 1900s, is
home to several offices
of the Tata Group.
For hotels and restaurants in this region see p700 and pp714–15


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MUMBAI  453


Keneseth Eliyahoo
Synagogue
This is the oldest
Sephardic synagogue
in the city, donated by
the Sassoon family.
It is used for prayer by
Mumbai’s Baghdadi
and Bene Israeli
Jewish community.
Locator Map
See Mumbai Map pp448–9




Elphinstone College
Part of this delightful
Venetian Gothic
Key building houses the
Suggested route State Archives.

Keneseth Eliyahoo
Synagogue
D A L A L S T R E E T








K D U B A S H M A R G Lion
Gate
Hornbill . Chhatrapati
House Shivaji Maharaj
Vastu Sangrahalaya
Mumbai’s most
prestigious museum
has a good collection
of Rajput miniatures
and sculptures
(see pp454–5).
Police Headquarters
The National
Wellington Fountain Gallery of
Modern Art,
housed in
Gateway of an Edwardian
India building, is the
most impressive
exhibition space
in Mumbai.
Regal Cinema




Jehangir Art Gallery
David Sassoon This gallery exhibits paintings
Library by leading contemporary
Indian artists.




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5 Chhatrapati Shivaji Maharaj Vastu
Sangrahalaya

Formerly known as the Prince of Wales Museum of Western India, Chhatrapati
Shivaji Maharaj Vastu Sangrahalaya is renowned for its superb sculptures and miniature
paintings. Housed in a grand Indo-Saracenic building designed by George Wittet, its
foundation stone was laid by the Prince of Wales (the future George V) in 1905.
During World War I, it served as a military hospital, and was formally inaugurated
in 1923 by Lady Lloyd, wife of Governor George Lloyd. Generous
gifts from discerning private collectors have enabled the
museum to build a rare collection of
over 60,000 art objects.
Second
floor
Japanese
Cloisonné
This 19th-
century vase
forms part of an
impressive
collection of Far
Eastern art.



Arms and Armour include
the finely decorated swords and
shields of the Mughal emperors.

. Jahangir
Giving Alms
This early
17th-century Mughal
miniature shows
Jahangir giving alms
to Sufi mendicants at
the Dargah Sharif in
Ajmer. The gallery has
over 200 miniatures.

The Coomaraswamy
Hall hosts seminars and
temporary exhibitions.
Key to Floorplan
Pre- and Proto-History Gallery
Key Gallery
Indian Sculpture
Gallery Guide Natural History Section
Decorative Arts
The museum has galleries on three floors. The ground
floor houses sculpture (including Gandhara master- Miniature Paintings
pieces), the Pre- and Proto-History Gallery, and the Bronzes
Natural History Section. On the first floor are miniature Nepalese and Tibetan Art
paintings, decorative arts, Nepalese and Tibetan Maritime History
Art, and the Premchand Roychand Galleries. The European Paintings
Himalayan Art Gallery has reopened after an extensive
restoration. The second floor has European paintings, Far Eastern Art
arms and armour. There is a museum shop at the Arms and Armour
entrance of the building. Premchand Roychand Gallery
For hotels and restaurants in this region see p700 and pp714–15


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VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
Practical Information
159/61 MG Rd, Fort Area
Tel (022) 2284 4484 ∑ csmvs.in
Open 10:15am–6pm Mon–Sun
(last adm 5:45pm). Closed public
hols. & 8 7 =

Key Gallery
The central hall on the
ground floor offers a
sampling of the mus eum’s
treasures, with prize exhibits
from different galleries.

. Maitreya Buddha
An outstanding
First floor example of Nepalese
art, this 12th-century
Karl Khandalavala gilt-bronze statue of
Gallery the Future Buddha
was, like most of the
museum’s prized
pieces, a gift from a
private collector.


Ground
floor



























. Gandhara
Sculpture
This 3rd-century AD
sculpture of the
Buddha meeting an
ascetic shows strong
Entrance Greek influence.




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The elegant circle of Neo-
Classical buildings around the
garden was built in the 1860s,
and fashioned after acclaimed
English examples such as the
Royal Crescent in Bath. Designed
by James Scott, the buildings
around the garden share a
uniform façade with pedestrian
arcades and decorative terracotta
keystones from England, and
represent the earliest planned
urban compositions in Mumbai.
The Asiatic Society of Mumbai
The Town Hall, Mumbai’s most elegant public building and Reserve Bank overlook the
Horniman Circle Gardens.
6 Town Hall 7 Horniman Circle Anchoring the western edge
of the flower-filled green patch
Shahid Bhagat Singh Marg, Fort Area. Veer Nariman Rd, Fort Area. St Thomas’
Tel (022) 2266 0956. Open Mon–Sat. Cathedral: Tel (022) 2202 0121. of Horniman Circle is St Thomas’
Closed public hols. The Asiatic Open daily. 5 8am & 4:30pm, Sun. Cathedral, the city’s oldest
Society: Tel (022) 2266 0956. Anglican church, which was
Open Mon–Sat. The old Cotton Green, where consecrated in 1718. The name
traders used to buy and sell bales of the nearby Churchgate station
In recognition of Mumbai’s of cotton, was laid out as a public and its environs is a reference to
importance as a burgeoning garden in 1872. Later this church. Like many
commercial centre in the 1820s, known as Elphinstone of Mumbai’s great
the city was bestowed with a Circle, it was renamed edifices, this too was
Town Hall, facing the vast open after Independence in funded by public
space of Cotton Green (now honour of Benjamin Guy donations, collected in
Horniman Circle). Designed by Horniman, a former large part by a young
Colonel Thomas Cowper and editor of the Bombay East India Company
completed in 1833, the Town Hall Chronicle, who was an chaplain named Richard
is considered to be among the active supporter of India’s Cobbe. The church has
finest Neo-Classical buildings in Freedom Movement. an imposing bell tower
India, and is one of the earliest Today, the garden is and fine 19th-century
surviving colonial buildings in frequented by students stained glass. The
Mumbai. Its impressive façade and office workers, who cathedral’s spacious
of pedimented porticoes relax here before the interior is especially
surmounts a row of fluted Doric commute back to their remarkable for its
columns. A grand flight of 30 homes in the suburbs. marble memorials to
steps leads into a magnificent The garden is the venue Stained glass, heroes of the Raj. An
Assembly Hall, the venue for for open-air theatrical St Thomas’ exceptionally fine one
public meetings during the Raj. performances and Cathedral is the monument to
The Town Hall’s north wing cultural events in winter. Governor Jonathan
houses The Asiatic Society, Duncan, which depicts him being
founded in 1804 by Sir James blessed by Hindus for his efforts
Mackintosh, with its imposing to stop infanticide. In front of the
high ceiling, teak-panelled walls, entrance porch is a charming
and elegant cast-iron balustrades. Neo-Gothic fountain. Designed
This institution’s extensive library by Sir George Gilbert Scott, it was
has a priceless collection of donated by the Parsi financier, Sir
800,000 volumes, including a first Cowasjee Jehangir Readymoney.
edition of Dante’s Divine Comedy, Opposite the Cathedral are
ancient Sanskrit manuscripts and some lovely buildings – the Neo-
old Bombay gazetteers. It also Gothic Elphinstone Building,
holds fragments of what is built in the late 19th century, and
believed to be Gautama Buddha’s the Neo-Classical British Bank of
begging bowl. On the first floor the Middle East. Across the road
are marble statues of Mumbai’s is the Readymoney Mansion with
founding fathers, among them its detailed timberwork, carved
two governors, Mountstuart balconies, and Mughal arches.
Elphin stone and Sir Bartle Frere, Reminiscent of a Rajasthani
and the Parsi philanthropist Sir Greek-inspired keystone at haveli, it was also designed by
Jamsetjee Jeejeebhoy. Horniman Circle George Wittet (see p454).
For hotels and restaurants in this region see p700 and pp714–15


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MUMBAI  457


Chowk (“Martyrs’ Square”). This q Crawford Market
area marks the western ramparts Dr Dadabhai Naoroji Rd & Lokmanya
of the now-vanished old Fort, Tilak Rd. Shops: Open daily (partially
which was built by the East India closed on Sun).
Company in 1716, and covered
the southern part of the city. The Built on the orders of Sir Arthur
Fort was demolished in the 1860s Crawford, Bombay’s first
by the governor, Sir Bartle Frere, Municipal Commissioner (1865–
to allow the city to expand, and 71), Crawford Market, now known
to accommodate the grandiose as Mahatma Jyotiba/Jyotirao
new civic and commercial Phule Market, lies to the north
buildings he had planned. All of Chhatrapati Shivaji Terminus.
these buildings were designed Designed by William Emerson
with pedes trian arcades, which and completed in 1869, the
today are crowded with hawkers Crawford was the first building
selling a wide range of goods, in India to be lit up by electricity.
The Bombay Stock Exchange, India’s from old books to clothes and This architectural extravaganza of
financial epicentre electronic gadgets. Moorish arches and half-timbered
North of Flora Fountain, gables, topped by a clocktower,
8 Bombay Stock leading towards Chhatrapati consists of a central hall with two
Exchange Shivaji Terminus, is Dadabhai wings. Tiers of wooden stalls
Naoroji (DN) Road, lined with display nearly 3,000 tonnes of
Dalal Street, Fort Area. Closed to public. magnificent Victorian and later fresh produce daily, from fruit and
Asia’s first stock exchange and colonial structures such as the flowers to fish and exotic birds.
India’s financial epicentre, the now-closed Capitol Cinema The floor is paved with stone
Bombay Stock Exchange towers with its classical detailing, the from Scotland, which remains
above Dalal Street. This is JN Petit Institute and cool through the day. The
Mumbai’s Wall Street and derives Library (1898) with its lamp brackets are
its name from the many stock- Venetian Neo-Gothic shaped like winged
brokers (dalals) in the area. The façade, and the Art dragons. Above the
presence of close to 50 banks on Deco Watcha Agiary entrance doors, the
a short stretch underlines the (Parsi Fire Temple) with marble bas-reliefs
frenetic pace of its commercial its Assyrian-style depict scenes from
activity. Just before lunchtime, carvings, built in 1881. market life. They
the area swarms with Other interesting were carved by
dabbawallahs (see p461) who structures include Lockwood Kipling
bring home-made lunchboxes the Indo-Saracenic (see p114), father of
to the thousands of office Times of India Flora Fountain, a favourite the writer Rudyard
workers in the area. Building and the Mumbai landmark Kipling, as was
fanciful Municipal the fountain in the
Corporation Building, with its courtyard decorated with Hindu
9 Flora Fountain Islamic minarets, Gothic towers river goddesses and animals.
and onion domes. West of the market is Zaveri
Junction of Veer Nariman Rd, MG Rd &
Dr Dadabhai Naoroji Rd, Fort Area. Bazaar, where diamond, gold
and silver merchants have their
Standing at the intersection 0 Chhatrapati opulent stores. Northwest of the
of three major streets is Flora Shivaji Terminus market, on Mutton Street, is Chor
Fountain, the quintessential Bazaar (“Thieves’ Market”), with
icon of Mumbai. Sculpted out See pp458–9. its antiques and bric-a-brac shops.
of Portland stone by James
Forsythe and shipped out
from England, the fountain
is surmounted by the Roman
goddess Flora, who stands above
exuberantly carved sea shells,
dolphins and mythical beasts.
Erected in 1869, in what was
then a spacious open plaza, Flora
Fountain is now swamped in a
sea of traffic, and overshadowed
by a Martyrs’ Memorial put
up by the Maharashtra state
government in 1960. The area
has now been renamed Hutatma Vegetable stall at Crawford Market




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0 Chhatrapati Shivaji Terminus

The most impressive example of Victorian
Gothic architecture in India, Chhatrapati Shivaji
Terminus Railway Station (formerly known as
Victoria Terminus) is a rich extravaganza
of domes, spires and arches. Designed by
Frederick William Stevens and decorated
by local art students and craftsmen, it was
completed in 1888 and named to commemorate
Queen Victoria’s Golden Jubilee. Now the Chhatrapati Shivaji Terminus, often mistaken for a
headquarters of the Central Railway, over 1,000 grand palace or cathedral
trains and three million passengers, including
crowds of suburban commuters, pass through
the station daily. In 2004, it was declared a
UNESCO World Heritage Site.



















The Gables
These gables are crowned
by sculptures representing
Engineering, Agriculture
and Commerce.









KEY
1 Entrance-gate piers are topped
by stone sculptures of a lion and
a tiger, symbolizing Britain and
India, respectively.
2 A majestic staircase of blue
stone, with beautiful iron railings,
. Booking Hall sweeps up beneath the dome.
A Neo-Gothic vaulted roof with 3 Water spouts shaped like
wooden ribs covers the hall. Stained animal heads jut out from the
glass, colourful tiles and decorative base of the dome.
iron grilles add to its beauty.
For hotels and restaurants in this region see p700 and pp714–15


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Date 24th April 2013
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MUMBAI  459



VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
Practical Information
Dr Dadabhai Naoroji Rd,
Fort Area.
Tel (022) 2265 6565.
^ of the interiors. 0 m =






The Central Dome
A 4-m (13-ft) high statue of “Progress”,
holding a torch, crowns the colossal dome,
which has eight decorated ribs.






Stained Glass
Set into the octagonal
tower below the dome
are brilliantly coloured
stained-glass windows,
decorated with a
locomotive and foliage.













Portrait Medallion
Studded into the façade are busts
of Raj-era personalities, such as
colonial administrator
Sir Bartle Frere (see p456).












. Stone Carvings and Sculptures
An exquisite peacock carving decorates this window.
Other carved screens and friezes feature elephants,
monkeys and snakes.




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460  SOUTHWESTERN INDIA


imposing Gresham Assurance constructed in the 18th
House. This Art Deco structure century by a Jain merchant,
has an impressive basalt façade, Purushottamdas Kothari, and
with two grand pillars and added to in the 19th and early
a dome. 20th centuries. Jains, like
The Marshall Building, directly Buddhists, believe that all living
opposite, has a Florentine beings have souls, and that kind
dome, and was constructed acts towards all life forms will
in 1898 to accommodate the earn the giver merit in the
warehouse and offices of a next life.
British engineering firm. Its At the western end of
façade, embellished with a Walchand Hirachand Marg is
medley of angels, portholes Nagar Chowk, an oasis of green
and pediments, is a wonderful in the midst of swirling traffic.
example of how contemporary It has an impressive statue of
European architecture was Sir Dinshaw Manekji Petit, a
The Ruttonsee Mulji fountain, elab orately successfully transplanted baronet, captain of industry
carved and embellished to eastern settings. and leading Parsi philanthropist
w Shahid Bhagat Drinking water fountains or of the early 20th century. The
statue was sculpted by Sir
pyaos were set up across the
Singh Marg city by local philanthropists Thomas Brock, and the
to provide respite from surrounding garden is a
Fort Area.
the hot Indian summer. good place from which
This busy street, also known At the point where to view some of
as Colaba Causeway (see p451) Shahid Bhagat Singh Mumbai’s grand
towards its upmarket southern Marg meets Mint Victorian buildings –
end, is the bustling commercial Road is the among them the
and administrative hub of the Ruttonsee Mulji former Victoria
so- called Fort area (see p457). Drinking Water Terminus, the
Virtually no traces of this historic Fountain designed Mumbai Municipal
structure remain, but the by Frederick Williams Corporation building
area still offers a fascinating Stevens, the leading and the General
glimpse into the continuities architect of Victorian Gresham Assurance Post Office. Shahid
between colonial and present- Bombay, who also Building Bhagat Singh Marg
day Mumbai. designed the eventually runs
The Reserve Bank of India, Municipal Corporation Building into D’Mello Road, previously
which stands on the site of an and the Chhatrapati Shivaji known as Frere Road. This area
old military barracks, is India’s Terminus (see pp458–9). This lay under water until the 1860s,
central banking institution. fountain was erected in 1894 by when it was reclaimed by the
Built in 1939 and designed by a local trader, in memory of his Port Trust. Today the road is
JA Ritchie, it has a grand Art only son, whose statue stands lined with popular eateries.
Deco entrance, flanked by two beneath the dome.
impressive columns, which Made of limestone and
enhances its air of respectable red and blue granite,
solidity. There are attractive it is decorated with
cast-iron grilles in the window projecting elephant
panels. The modern high-rise heads, whose trunks
offices of the Reserve Bank, spout water. The dome,
across the road, stand in the supported by columns
grounds of the old Mint. This made of blue granite, is
is a majestic Classical-fronted crowned by the figure
building, designed and built in of a young boy. The
1827 by Major John Hawkins, fountain also has a
a member of the Bombay special trough from
Engineers’ Regiment. Entry into which animals can drink.
the Mint is restricted, but visible Further down Mint
from its compound is a stone Road, just before its
gateway erected by the junction with Walchand
Portuguese, now inside the Hirachand Marg, is
naval establishment, INS Angre. another pyao and the
West of the Mint, occupying a Kothari Kabutarkhana.
corner site at the intersection of Literally “Pigeon House”,
Pherozeshah Mehta and Shahid the Kabutarkhana is an Pigeons at the Kothari Kabutarkhana pecking at their
Bhagat Singh roads, is the ornate stone structure, daily supply of grain
For hotels and restaurants in this region see p700 and pp714–15


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Date 12th July 2013
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MUMBAI  461

e Ballard Estate
Bounded by Shahid Bhagat Singh
Marg, Walchand Hirachand Marg &
Shoorji Vallabhdas Marg.
This entire area was once
part of the sea until it was
reclaimed by the Bombay
Port Trust and converted into
a business district. Planned
between 1908 and 1914 by
George Wittet, architect of
the Gateway of India, the area
was developed according to
the strict guidelines set by
him, maintaining a restrained The General Post Office, combining European and Indian styles
elegance in contrast to the
over-ornamentation of the façade. Further down the road, r General Post
Victorian edifices in the Fort to the east, is the Port Trust Office
area. The district’s broad War Memorial, honouring
pavements and neat tree- the memory of port officers Walchand Hirachand Marg.
lined avenues feature stone who died in World War I. Open Mon–Sat.
buildings of uniform height The memorial has a single Completed in 1913, this
and style, giving the estate fluted column shaft in stone, fabulous composition of
an atmosphere of calm surmounted by a lantern. minarets, domes and arches
tranquillity, unusual The Grand Hotel dominates was designed by John Begg
in a business quarter. the corner of Walchand and supervised by George
A convenient point of entry Hirachand Marg and Ram Wittet. A prime example of
into Ballard Estate is from Gulam Marg. Another of the Indo-Saracenic style, the
Shoorji Vallabhdas Marg, George Wittet’s designs, General Post Office (GPO)
near the imposing Marshall it has a striking central building combines elements
Building. Among the most atrium. The grandiose of Indian architecture, most
impressive buildings on Mackinnon & Mackenzie notably an Islamic dome
this street is the Customs Building has an impres- inspired by the Gol Gumbad
House. Designed by sive portico, columns in Bijapur (see p547), with
Wittet himself, it has a and statues. This, and classical European traditions.
grand entrance portico in other beautiful Mumbai’s main post office,
Renaissance style, framed Edwardian buildings, the GPO has a lofty three-
by two columns rising to Port Trust Memorial such as Darabshaw storeyed rotunda inside,
the height of the building. House and Neville and this leads to its various
Next to it is the Mumbai Port House, make Ballard Estate a departments. Business is
Trust, also designed by George uniquely elegant business transacted from behind
Wittet. Two striking ships in full district. Renowned Iranian café, delightful old-fashioned
sail are sculpted on its basalt Britannia, is also located here. wooden counters.
The Dabbawallahs of Mumbai
Among Mumbai’s most characteristic sights are
the dabbawallahs, men who pick up freshly cooked
lunches from over 200,000 suburban homes and
deliver them to offices all over the city. Most office
workers spend an average of two hours travelling
to work. Hot, home-cooked lunches therefore would
normally be an impossible luxury – if it weren’t for
the dabbawallas. They pick up the meals, usually rotis,
vegetables and dal, packed in three or four round
stainless-steel containers, known as tiffin boxes or Dabbawallahs delivering home-cooked lunch to
dabbas (hence the name dabbawallah) from each office workers
house, colourcode the office addresses onto the lids, thread the dabbas onto long poles and cycle
off to the nearest station. Here the dabbas are handed over to other dabbawallas, who deliver
them to the right offices. Lunches rarely go astray, and empty dabbas are delivered back home
by late afternoon. Dabbawallahs, traditionally migrants from the neighbouring city of Pune,
consider themselves descendants of Mawle warriors, associated with King Chhatrapati Shivaji
Maharaj. They provide one of Mumbai’s most efficient services.





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462  SOUTHWESTERN INDIA

















Marine Drive, sweeping in an arc along the sea, connecting the northern and southern ends of Mumbai
t Marine Drive meeting after work and families finest musicians and dancers
gathering around the vendors perform regularly in its other
Netaji Subhash Chandra Rd.
selling coconut water and auditoriums (see pp466–7).
Known as the “Queen’s bhelpuri (see p444).
Necklace” after the glittering Chowpatty Beach is the city’s
string of streetlights lining the most popular promenade and y Malabar Hill
road, Marine Drive (renamed the southern most of Mumbai’s Bounded by Napean Sea Rd,
Netaji Subhash Chandra Road) beaches. Earlier cluttered with Ridge Rd & Walkeshwar Rd.
sweeps along a sea-facing food stalls and hawkers, the
promenade that runs from area has now been substantially This posh residential area, once
Nariman Point to Malabar cleaned up in a drive by the dotted with bungalows set in
Hill. Built on land reclaimed civic authorities. An inexpensive large, forested compounds, is
from the sea in the 1920s, it evening desti nation for the city’s today crowded with high-rise
is also the main arterial link residents, it remains lively till apartment blocks, home to
between the suburbs and the late at night. It is also the venue Mumbai’s rich and famous.
city’s prime commercial and for Mumbai’s largest festival, The Parsi Towers of Silence are
adminis trative centres, Nariman Ganesha Chaturthi (see p471), also located in this area. Parsis
Point and the Fort area (see when huge crowds gather at (see p451), who believe that the
p457). Situated at its eastern Chowpatty Beach to immerse elements of earth, water, air and
periphery is the Oval Maidan, idols of Ganesha, the elephant- fire are sacred and should not be
nursery of such legendary headed god, in the Arabian Sea. defiled, place their dead in these
Indian cricketing heroes as The National Centre for the tall, cylindrical stone towers to
Sachin Tendulkar (b.1973) and Performing Arts (NCPA), at the be picked clean by vultures. This,
Sunil Gavaskar (b.1949). southern tip of Marine Drive, they believe, is one of the most
The buildings of Marine Drive is the city’s most active venue environmentally friendly ways
are characterized by a strong for music, dance and theatre of disposing of the dead. A fall
Art Deco flavour, pop ular in performances. Its Tata Theatre in Mumbai’s vulture population,
Mumbai during the 1930s and Experimental Theatre stage however, remains a cause of
and 1940s. With the advent works by international and worry. A high wall and a thick
of electric elevators, and with Indian playwrights with the belt of trees surround the Towers,
concrete replacing the earlier best of local talent, while India’s which are closed to visitors.
stone and brick, the apartment
blocks on the seafront were
built to a uniform height of
five floors, making this the
most fashionable residential
area of the time. Real estate
prices on this stretch are very
high. The most notable building
here is The Oberoi.
The best way to enjoy Marine
Drive during the day is from
the upper floor of a red double-
decker bus, which provides
panoramic views of the sea and
the city’s skyline. In the evening,
the area swarms with people
taking their daily walks, couples The Hanging Gardens, rising in tiers on Malabar Hill
For hotels and restaurants in this region see p700 and pp714–15


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MUMBAI  463



The Hanging Gardens, perched
at the top of Malabar Hills,
provide a pleasant open space
with views of the city.

u Banganga
Walkeshwar, Malabar Hill.
Hidden amidst the soaring
skyscrapers of Malabar Hill
is the small settlement of
Banganga, set around a sacred
tank. According to legend, Rama,
hero of the Ramayana (see p31),
pausing here while on his way The Mahalaxmi Temple, dedicated to Lakshmi, the Goddess of Wealth
to rescue his abducted wife Sita,
shot an arrow into the ground coastal village. The low, tile-roofed washed away repeatedly. The
and a spring gushed forth. This cottages have timber eaves and contractor dreamt that if a
is the origin of the tank, and open verandahs with cast-iron temple was built to Laxmi, the
devotees take regular ritual dips balconies, the focal point for most wall would hold. Nearby is the
in it. The site has several temples daytime activities. The inhabitants Mahalaxmi Race Course, next
– the Jabreshwar Mahadev, at were converted to Christianity to Mahalaxmi Station, which
the tank’s corner, is the prettiest, by Portuguese missionaries has horse races every weekend
while the Walkeshwar Temple, and adopted names such as from November to April.
built in the 18th century, has a Fernandes, D’Costa and D’Lima.
linga said to have been built by
Rama himself. Around the tank p Haji Ali Mosque
and temples are rest houses o Mahalaxmi Off Lala Lajpat Rai Marg. Open daily.
(dharamsalas) for pilgrims. Temple
Approached by a long causeway,
Mahalaxmi Temple Lane, which gets submerged at high
off Bhulabhai Desai Rd. tide, is the dargah (tomb) of a
rich merchant, Haji Ali Shah
Devotees, both rich and poor, Bukhari, who gave up his wealth
throng this temple dedicated to after a pilgrimage to Mecca.
Lakshmi, the Goddess of Wealth The dargah dates to the 15th
and Prosperity, also known as century, but the dazzling white
Laxmi in Maharashtra and in mosque was built in the early
parts of Gujarat (see p422). One 20th century and seems to float
of the most famous temples in on its small island, off the coast
Mumbai, its approach is lined of Worli. The causeway, usually
with stalls selling offerings, such lined with beggars, leads to a
as coconuts, flowers and plastic huge marble courtyard. The
icons. The temple’s history dates tomb lies at its centre and
to the 18th century, when an devotees touch their heads to
embankment being constructed the heavily embroidered chador
along the bay was allegedly (ceremonial cloth) covering it.
Khotachiwadi’s narrow lanes and
balconied houses
i Khotachiwadi
Bounded by Jagannath Shankarshet
Rd & Raja Ram Mohan Roy Rd, Girgaum.
In the narrow bylanes of Girgaum
in central Mumbai is the old-
fashioned neighbourhood of
Khotachiwadi (literally,
“Headman’s Orchard”). It grew as
a suburban settlement, north of
the Fort, in the 19th century, and
retains the sleepy quality of a Haji Ali Mosque, built on an island linked to the shore by a causeway




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464  SOUTHWESTERN INDIA

a Bandra Film City is where many
Bollywood blockbusters are
N of Mahim Bay. Mount St Mary
Basilica: Mount Mary Rd. Tel (022) 2642 shot, as are most Indian TV soaps
3152. Open daily. _ Bandra fête (Sep). and serials. Song-and-dance
routines, dramatic scenes and
The prosperous locality of Bandra, action-packed fight sequences
also known as the queen of the take place simultaneously on
suburbs, in the north of Mumbai, Film City’s dozen shooting stages,
is connected to the city by the against outsized backdrops of
Mahim Causeway. Amidst its medieval forts, dense jungles
modern apartment blocks, swanky and opulent cardboard palaces.
boutiques and restaurants, are A vendor on Mumbai’s crowded Visitors can enjoy guided tours of
vestiges of its past as a small Juhu Beach the grounds, theatres, recording
Portuguese enclave. A number of rooms, gardens and lakes, and
Roman Catholic churches were water and enjoying the sea even end up becoming a part
built by the Portuguese, who breeze. Vendors offering snacks, of the crowd at shootings.
retained Bandra until the late toys and fairground rides add
18th century. The most important to the mela (fair) atmosphere. f Sanjay Gandhi
of these is the Mount St Mary Juhu also has several luxury
Basilica, which attracts devotees hotels that serve as weekend National Park
of all faiths. Outside the church retreats for Mumbai’s tycoons Borivli. n Conservation Education
is a market selling wax models and Bollywood film stars. Centre, near elephant gate Goregaon,
of various body parts. Devotees The Prithvi Theatre, on Juhu (022) 2842 1174. Open Tue–Sun. &
with ailing limbs buy the appro- Church Road, was founded in 8 Kanheri Caves: Open Tue–Sun. &
priate model and solemnly place 1978 by one of Bollywood’s
it on the altar before the Virigin leading families, the Kapoors. It An hour’s train ride north of
Mary in the belief that she will stages plays in Hindi, Gujarati and Mumbai, this national park is
effect a miraculous cure. A English, and has a lively café, one of the few in India within
Portuguese fort, Castella de popular with Mumbai’s arty a metropolis and a popular
Aguada, also known as Bandra crowd. A theatre festival is held tourist spot. Surrounded by
Fort, is a watchtower on a hill. in November (see pp466–7). rolling hills, its deciduous
It offers spectacular views of forests harbour a wealth of
the sea and the hinterland. flora and fauna. Tiger and lion
Bandra’s plush Pali Hill locality, d Film City safaris are offered in fenced-
which has the villas of several off sections of the park.
Bollywood stars, draws crowds Goregaon East. n Contact Film City’s In a picturesque wooded area
of star-struck Indian tourists. Its Public Relations Office (022) 2840 1533. of the park is an extraordinary
other attractions are the sea- complex of 109 Buddhist caves,
front promenades at Bandstand Built in 1978 by the state the Kanheri Caves, dating from
and Carter Road, popular with government to meet the needs the 1st to the 9th centuries AD.
the local youth. Also situated of Mumbai’s booming Hindi The 6th-century Cave 3 is the
here is a small Koli fishing village. film industry, better known as most impressive, with its colossal
The Bandra-Worli Sea Link, Bollywood (see pp36–7), Film City Buddhas, richly carved pillars
officially known as Rajiv Gandhi sprawls over 140 ha (346 acres) and brackets and hemispherical
Sea Link, connects Bandra in the in the city’s northern outskirts. stupa. The caves, which are best
western suburbs with Worli in Bollywood produces some 800 approached through the Park’s
southern Mumbai. It has greatly feature films a year, making it northern entrance, have been
reduced the traffic and travel the world’s largest film industry, chiselled out of basaltic rock and
time within the city. rivalled only by South India’s demonstrate the influence of
Telugu and Tamil equivalents. Buddhist art and culture in India.
s Juhu Beach
N of Bandra.
The sandy coastline of Juhu
Beach lies north of the city
centre. This is not a beach for
leisurely sunbathing, though,
since it is always crowded. On
weekends, especially, it is packed
with families of picnickers
playing cricket on the beach,
paddling tentatively in the The extraordinary Kanheri Caves at Sanjay Gandhi National Park
For hotels and restaurants in this region see p700 and pp714–15


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MUMBAI  465

g Elephanta Island VISITORS’ CHECKLIST

Located on an island off Mumbai’s eastern shore, the Practical Information
6th-century AD Elephanta cave temples, chiselled into 9 km (6 miles) NE of Mumbai.
n for ferries, (022) 2202 6364.
a rocky cliff and dedicated to Shiva, contain some great Open daily. & 8 _ Elephanta
masterpieces of Indian sculpture. Originally called Music & Dance Festival (Feb).
Gharapuri, or “Island of Caves”, the island was renamed Transport
Elephanta by the Portuguese after a huge stone elephant 4 from Gateway of India (every
that once stood here. This is now in the garden of the Bhau 30 minutes 9am onwards: last
Daji Lad Museum in Mumbai’s Byculla area. A UNESCO entry 3:30pm)
World Heritage Site, the Elephanta cave temples can be
visited via an hour-long ferry ride from Mumbai.



1
0 metres 20
7
0 yards 20
8
5
9
6
4 2 3 The Elephanta caves, cut into the cliff high
above the water
Plan of Elephanta Caves are resolved. The image on the
1 Northern Entrance 6 Marriage of Shiva-Parvati west is of Shiva as Gangadhara,
2 Mahesamurti 7 Shiva spearing Andhaka help ing the river goddess Ganga
3 Ardhanarishvara 8 Eastern Entrance descend to earth (see p167),
4 Gangadhara 9 Shiva and Parvati while his consort Parvati and
5 Western Entrance Playing Dice other deities look on.
Contrasting images of peace
and violence, joy and fury, can
Exploring Elephanta introspective. The one facing be seen in exquisite sculptures
The origins of the cave temples west represents Shiva the throughout the temple. Thus,
at Elephanta are lost in obscurity, Creator, gentle, solicitous and one sculpture near the Western
but in all probability they date to graceful. The head facing east, Entrance lyrically depicts the
the 6th century AD and represent with its cruel mouth, fiercely marriage of Shiva and Parvati,
the period of Brahmanical revival hooked nose and serpents while opposite it is a powerful
after Buddhism began to decline. adorning the hair, shows Shiva panel showing Shiva brutally
From the pier, where visitors as the Destroyer. On either side impaling the demon Andhaka.
disembark from the boats, a of the statue are other superb The Eastern Entrance has Shiva
long flight of 125 steps leads sculptures. The one on the east and Parvati contentedly playing
to the temple’s main Northern shows Shiva as Ardhanarishvara dice in their mountain abode,
Entrance. This is a huge square – the Lord who is both Male and as the demon-king Ravana tries
hall, with sides measuring 40 m Female, and thus symbolizes the to destroy their home by shaking
(131 ft), supported by two dozen Divine Unity, in which all opposites the mountain.
massive pillars. Here, in a deep
recess against the rear (south)
wall, is the huge triple-headed
Shiva statue, the Mahesamurti,
also known as Trimurthy. This is
the glory of Elephanta, and few
visitors can fail to be moved by
this powerful, compelling image,
hailed by art historian Percy
Brown as “the creation of a genius”.
The three faces represent Shiva
in his different manifestations.
The central face, with its elaborate
crown, depicts Shiva the Preserver,
sublimely serene and The 5.5-m (18-ft) high Mahesamurti, dominating the cave temple




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466  SOUTHWESTERN INDIA


Shopping & Entertainment Mumbai is renowned for its
in Mumbai high-quality leather goods at
reasonable prices. Rasulbhai
Adamji at Colaba, and many
Mumbai is one of India’s best shopping destinations. Large shops in the Oberoi Shopping
malls, department stores and exclusive boutiques stocking Centre have a good range of
international brand names, coexist with traditional bazaars and jackets, handbags, wallets and
pavement stalls selling everything from diamonds to dentures. luggage, some of it “inspired” by
Gucci, Prada and Louis Vuitton.
Mumbai also has a vibrant nightlife, with more discotheques Joy Shoes at the Taj Hotel has
and pubs than any other Indian city. As the home of the Hindi high-quality shoes and leather
film industry, Bollywood, Mumbai often holds gala premiere nights accessories, with a clientele
at its many cinema halls. The city’s crowded cultural calendar comprising the likes of Amitabh
also includes several concerts, exhibitions, theatre shows and Bachchan and the Tatas.
festivals. But perhaps the best entertainment the city offers is
the non-stop circus on its bustling streets and sidewalks. Entertainment Guides,
Tickets and Venues
Daily newspapers list the day’s
Shops and Markets
Nayaab Jewels, in Khar, has entertainment and events on
South Mumbai’s main shopping a great collection of antique their engagements pages. Other
areas include Colaba Causeway, jewellery. The shopping arcades good sources of information are
Kemp’s Corner and the at the Oberoi and Taj Hotels the magazines TimeOut Mumbai
shopping arcade in the Oberoi (see p700 & p700) are also good and Know Your City Mumbai.
Hotel at Nariman Point. The places to shop for jewellery. Useful websites that offer online
traditional market for fresh information on cultural events
produce is Crawford Market and entertainment are www.
(see p457), while Bhuleshwar Textiles and Fashion brownpaperbag.in and www.lbb.
and Kalbadevi, north of the Mumbai is a fashion-conscious in/mumbai. Tickets for most
Fort area, are popular haunts city, and most Indian designers concerts and plays can
for textiles and jewellery. Atria have outlets here. Exclusive be bought from BookMyShow
and Crossroads, near the Haji boutiques include Aza, or at the venue itself. The major
Ali Dargah, and CR2 at Nariman Ensemble and Tarun Tahiliani, venues for Mumbai’s cultural
Point are popular shopping while casual ready-made events are the NCPA or National
malls. Further out, Inorbit (at garments are available at Centre for the Performing Arts
Malad), Oberoi (in Goregaon Cotton World. The Oberoi Hotel (see p462), the Nehru Centre
East), High Street Phoenix (in (see p700) houses, exclusively, auditorium and Shanmu-
Lower Parel, at Phoenix Mills) Gucci and Jimmy Choo stores. khananda Hall. Prithvi Theatre
and Phoenix Market City in Fantasia, Indian Textiles and in Juhu (see p464) is a lively
Kurla West also draw large Fabindia specialize in traditional centre for stage productions.
crowds of shoppers. Indian textiles and weaves, Other active exhibition venues
including silk saris, home include the Jehangir Art Gallery,
furnishings and accessories. the NGMA (National Gallery of
Antiques and Jewellery
For good-quality handwoven Modern Art) and the Artists’
A good place for antiques is home furnishings and floor Centre, located at Kala Ghoda
Chor Bazaar, or “Thieves’ Market”, carpets, the best shop is (see pp452–3).
near Crawford Market. This Shyam Ahuja.
warren of shops is crammed Performing Arts
with colonial furniture, Victorian
bric-a-brac and Chinese porcelain, Handicrafts and Gifts Mumbai is a great centre of
along with a lot of junk and Handicrafts from all over India classical Indian music, and many
fakes. Very good bargains can are available in Mumbai. The well-known performers can be
still be found here. Phillips widest range and best quality heard here. This cosmopolitan
Antiques, opposite Regal can be found at the Cottage city also has many enthusiasts of
Cinema on Dr Shyama Prasad Industries Emporium, jazz and Western classical music
Mukherjee Chowk, stocks a fine Contemporary Arts and Crafts (conductor Zubin Mehta received
col lec tion of old postcards, and Bombay Store in the Fort his early training in Mumbai), and
prints and Raj-era lithographs. area. Chimanlal’s has a good frequent concerts are held by
Note that strict rules govern the selection of handmade paper, both local and visiting international
export of antiques (see p735). while Inshallah Maashallah in groups. Classical and folk dance
Central Mumbai’s Zaveri Colaba stocks pure perfume performances from different
Bazaar is lined with jewellers’ essence (attar) in tiny glass parts of the country also feature
shops, Tribhovandas Bhimji bottles capturing the fragrances regularly on the cultural calendar.
Zaveri being the most famous. of rose, vetiver and jasmine. Mumbai has a vibrant theatre




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(Source v1.7)
Date 5th March 2013
Size 125mm x 217mm

SHOPPING & ENTER T AINMENT IN MUMBAI  467



tradition, with productions as Sterling, Regal and PVR except during the monsoon
in English as well as Marathi, Cinemas. These draw star-struck (June to September). Prior
Gujarati and Hindi. These are fans, who spend hours standing booking is necessary.
often staged in the open at outside, waiting for a glimpse of
Horniman Circle Gardens (see their favourites. Film festivals,
p456). The cultural high season documentary film screenings, Nightclubs and Bars
is from November to April, lectures, talks and exhibitions are Mumbai’s nightlife is more
though performances take also held throughout the year active than that of any other
place through the year. at various venues, such as the Indian city. While nightclubs
British Council. and bars open and close at
regular intervals, some have
Cinema remained consistently popular.
Heritage Tours
As the capital of the Hindi One of the liveliest is Hard Rock
film industry, Mumbai hosts a The Maharashtra Tourism Café, ingeniously housed in a
number of film-related events. Development Corporation mill compound in Worli. In south
Most of the film studios are (MTDC) offers guided tours Mumbai, Pizza by the Bay has
located in the suburbs, as are of Mumbai on double-decker live music Wednesday through
the private residences of most buses. Bombay Heritage Walks, Saturday. Most hotels have their
screen celebrities. Great fanfare organized by a group of young own bars and nightclubs, such
precedes the release of big- architects, take visitors through as Harbour Bar at The Taj Mahal
budget blockbusters, and historical districts such as Palace. Todi Mill Social and
glittering premieres are held Banganga, Khotachiwadi and The Bar Stock Exchange are
at popular cinema halls such the Fort area, on weekends, other popular spots.
DIRECTORY
Antiques and Shyam Ahuja Entertainment Cinema
Jewellery Juhu Tara Road. Information
Tel (022) 6524 7023. ∑ bookmyshow.com PVR Cinemas
Nayaab Jewels Oberoi Mall, Goregaon E.
490, 17th Road Khar, Khar Tarun Tahiliani ∑ brownpaperbag.in Tel (022) 4073 0301.
W. Tel (022) 2648 0633. Ramchandani Marg, Apollo ∑ lbb.in/mumbai Regal
Phillips Antiques Bunder. Tel (022) 2287 0895. Entertainment Dr Shyama Prasad
Dr SP Mukherjee Chowk, Handicrafts Venues Mukherjee Chowk.
opp. Regal Cinema, and Gifts Tel (022) 2202 1017.
Colaba. Tel (022) 2202 0564. British Council Sterling
Tribhovandas Bombay Store 901, 9th floor, One Hazarimal Somani Marg.
Bhimji Zaveri Western India House, PM Indiabulls Center, Tel (022) 6622 0016.
Zaveri Bazaar. Rd, Fort Area. Elphinstone Rd W. Heritage Tours
Tel (022) 4046 5001. Tel (022) 2288 5048. Tel (022) 6748 6748.
Textiles and Chimanlal’s Jehangir Art Gallery Bombay
Heritage Walks
Fashion Fort Area. Fort Area. Tel (022) 2369 0992.
Tel (022) 2207 4764. Tel (022) 2284 3989.
Cotton World Contemporary Arts NCPA Nightclubs
Mandlik Rd, Colaba. Nariman Point. and Bars
Tel (022) 2285 0075. and Crafts
Napean Sea Rd. Tel (022) 6622 3737. Harbour Bar
Ensemble Tel (022) 2363 0740. Nehru Centre The Taj Mahal Palace,
Great Western Bldg, Colaba. Tel (022) 3371
Shahid Bhagat Singh Cottage Industries Worli. Tel (022) 2496 4676. 5991.
Marg. Tel (022) 4056 4800. Emporium NGMA
Chhatrapati Shivaji M Rd. Kala Ghoda. Hard Rock Café
Fabindia Tel (022) 2363 0740. Bombay Dyeing Mill
Oberoi Mall. Tel (022) Tel (022) 2288 1969. Compound.
2842 9272. Inshallah Maashallah Prithvi Theatre Tel (022) 2438 2888.
Colaba.Tel (022) 2204 9495.
Fantasia Janaki Kutir, Juhu. Pizza by the Bay
Oberoi Mall. Tel (022) Joy Shoes Tel (022) 2614 9546. Marine Drive.
2284 6362. Taj Hotel, Apollo Bunder. Shanmukhananda Tel (022) 6651 1209.
Tel (022) 2285 0835.
Indian Textiles Hall Todi Mill Social
Taj Hotel, Apollo Bunder. Rasulbhai Adamji King’s Circle. Lower Parel.
Tel (022) 2202 7873. Colaba. Tel 981 981 6660. Tel (022) 2407 8888. Tel (022) 3371 5991.




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SOUTHWESTERN INDIA  469

MAHARASHTRA

Verdant hills, scenic coastal plains and busy industrial centres make
up the varied landscape of Maharashtra, which covers an area of
308,000 sq km (118,920 sq miles). The hills of the Western Ghats,
source of many rivers, run parallel to the narrow Konkan Coast, while
cradled in the centre is the Deccan Plateau, formed from black volcanic
lava 70 million years ago. This area saw a great flowering of art and
architecture from the 2nd century BC onwards, and two famous UNESCO
World Heritage sites are located here – the Buddhist caves at Ajanta and
the rock-cut temples at Ellora. The rocky terrain around Pune is dotted with
the massive forts built by the 17th-century Maratha leader, Shivaji, who
launched successful guerrilla campaigns against the Mughals. His cult-like
status is today perpetuated by the Shiv Sena, a nationalist political party.
Modern Maharashtra is a prosperous, highly industrialized region, with a
strong agrarian base. Cotton and tobacco are widely cultivated, as are
various including oranges, chikoos (sapodilla) and mangoes.


Sights at a Glance
Towns & Cities Temple Towns & National Parks &
4 Kolhapur Holy Places Geographical Sites
6 Pune 0 Nasik t Lonar
9 Ahmadnagar o Pandharpur y Melghat Tiger Reserve
q Aurangabad Historic Sites Hill Stations
u Nagpur
i Wardha 2 Murud-Janjira 5 Mahabaleshwar
w Daulatabad 7 Lonavla
0 kilometres 100 e Ellora 8 Matheran
r Ajanta Beaches
0 miles 50
1 Alibag
3 Ganapatipule
Bharuch Narmada
•
• NH69
Surat Tapti • Ramtek
NH6
• • Amravati
NH3 Dhule •
Silvassa Akola
•
NH8
Shirdi • Godavari
Adilabad •
Mumbai
• NH50 NH222 Nanded • NH44
Panchgani NH211
•
Satara NH9 Key
•
Chiplun • • Solapur National highway
Major road
NH204
• NH13 Minor road
Ratnagiri • NH4
Panhala Krishna Major railway
State border
NH66
Belgaum
•
Mural showing the face of Avalokiteshvara, the most venerated Bodhisattva at Ajanta caves For keys to symbols see back flap


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470  SOUTHWESTERN INDIA


Shivaji. Steps lead to a sturdy
stone gate, where a stone
engraving of a lion holding six
diminutive elephants in captivity,
represents six successive Siddi
victories. Rusty cannons point
outwards through niches in the
ramparts. The palaces, gardens
and mosques lie in silent ruin,
and luxurious vegetation grows
around the palace of the Siddi
ruler, Sirul Khan.
Imposing Janjira Fort, built on an island
3 Ganapatipule
1 Alibag 2 Murud–Janjira
Ratnagiri district. 375 km (233 miles)
Raigarh district. 108 km (67 miles) Raigarh district. 165 km (103 miles) S of Mumbai. £ Ratnagiri, 22 km
S of Mumbai. @ g from Gateway S of Mumbai. 4 from Gateway of (14 miles) S of Ganapatipule, then bus.
of India, Mumbai, to Mandve, 18 km India, Mumbai to Mandve, 120 km @ _ Gauri Ganapati (Sep/Oct).
(11 miles) N of Alibag, then bus. (75 miles) N of Murud, then bus.
@ from Rajpuri to Janjira Fort. The small coastal village of
The port of Alibag was Ganapatipule is named after
developed by the Marathas A sleepy coastal town with Indo- the 400-year-old temple of
in the 17th century to protect Gothic houses and meandering Swayambhu Ganapati. Here,
their kingdom from the Dutch, pathways, Murud has a picture- the self-originated idol of
Portuguese and the increasingly perfect beach that promises lazy, Ganapati (the local name of
powerful British. Alibag is today sunny afternoons and cool dips Lord Ganesha) is revered by
a quiet town, just across the bay in the clean sea. The little village Hindus as one of the eight
from Mumbai. Its most impressive of Rajpuri, 4 km (2 miles) south sacred sites, or “Ashtha
sight is its beach, a 5-km (3-mile) of the main Murud town, is the Ganapatis”, in India. Devotees
stretch of soft silver sand, lined gateway to the Janjira Fort, show respect to the deity by
with a stand of coconut and the strongest island-fort in the performing a pradakshina, a
casuarina trees. Konkan, still enduring the surge walk around the hill near the
Kolaba Fort, constructed and retreat of the Arabian temple. The beach has
on an island in 1662 by the Sea. Boats are available at long stretches of pristine
Maratha ruler Chhatrapati Rajpuri to take visitors to white sands and clear
Shivaji (see p475), looms over the fort. waters. Beyond the coast
the skyline. It is a forbidding Also evocatively known lie groves of fruit trees,
grey mass of lead, steel and as the Jazeere Mehboob including mango, banana,
stone, built on a rock jutting or “Moon Fort”, it was built Alphonso jackfruit, coconut and
from the sea, and can be in 1511 by the Siddis, who mango betel nut.
reached on foot during low originally arrived in the
tide. Within its high ramparts Deccan from Abyssinia as part of Environs
are enclosed a temple dedi- the slave trade or as soldiers. The Ratnagiri, 25 km (16 miles) south
cated to Lord Ganesha and, fortress, with its high ramparts, of Ganapatipule, is famous for
next to it, a sweet-water well 22 bastions and granite walls its groves of delicious Alphonso
that must have been useful jointed with lead to withstand mangoes, locally known as hapus.
during sieges. There are two the onslaught of the sea, prov ed Ratnagiri’s fortress, Bala Qila, is
main entrances to the fort – invincible against attacks by the situated along the coast, and is
one from the shore and another Portuguese and British, and even intact, with a notable Bhagavati
from the sea. The enormous against the great Maratha leader, temple within its walls.
shore-side doorway is decorated
with sculptures of tigers,
elephants and peacocks.
Environs
Kihim Beach, 9 km (6 miles)
north of Alibag, is a tranquil
getaway, with woods brimming
with birds and wild flowers. It
was the favourite haunt of the
famous Indian ornithologist
Salim Ali (1896–1987), author of
the finest book on Indian birds. Swayambhu Ganapati Temple, at the base of a hill in Ganapatipule
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp700–701 and p715


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Ganesha, the Remover of Obstacles

Lord Ganesha, the elephant-headed son of Shiva and Parvati, is the most auspicious
and popular deity in India, and especially beloved in Maharashtra. Images of the
endearing, potbellied god are found in every household, on temple doorways and
shop entrances, on letterheads and wedding invitations. No task or enterprise is
ever begun without invoking him, as he is the Lord of New Beginnings. Worshipped
in many guises, he is Vighneshwara, the Remover of Obstacles, and Siddhidata, the
God of Prosperity and Success. Ganesha is above all a friend, lovable and benign,
and his festival, Ganesha Chaturthi, crosses all social boundaries, uniting the people
of Maharashtra in a frenzied ten-day celebration.

Lord Ganesha
The deity’s four arms hold his various Elephant A half halo
attributes. Two of these, his broken tusk goad indicates
his divinity.
and a round sweetmeat called modaka,
appear consistently. In the other two
hands, he sometimes holds a lotus
blossom, an elephant goad, an axe
or prayer beads. According to legend,
Ganesha gained his elephant head after
Shiva, in a state of fury, cut his son’s head
off and then, in remorse, stuck on the
head of a passing elephant.

The broken tusk, used as a pen to write
the Mahabharata, was the result of an Modaka
encounter with Parasuram (see p683).
A rat is the vehicle of Ganesha







Intricate clay images of Ganesha are made and
consecrated on the first day of Ganesha Chaturthi
(see p477). These are then enshrined in pandals or
decorated stages, and worshipped continuously
for ten days amidst Hindi and Marathi recitations
and musical performances.




Colourful floats,
accompanied by folk
dancers, lead the serpentine
processions that fill the
streets, amidst chants and
drum beats. The processions
end at the water’s edge,
where hundreds of idols are
immersed in rivers, lakes or
the sea. This final immersion
on the tenth day marks the
deity’s return to his abode.
See also features on Hindu Mythology (see pp28–9), Shiva (see p570) and Vishnu (see p683).



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472  SOUTHWESTERN INDIA















Colourful fishing boats docked off the Malvan coast
4 Kolhapur later inherited by his younger the remains of the Old Palace
son. The state remained with or Rajwada, where members
Kolhapur district. 237 km (147 miles)
S of Pune. * 549,250. £ @ n the Bhonsles (one of the four of the former maharaja’s
Maharashtra Tourism, (0231) 265 2935. Maratha princely families) family still live. Its huge
until Independence. entrance hall was once
Situated on the banks of the Of the numerous used for large public
Panchganga river, the city of temples in Kolhapur, wedding ceremonies.
Kolhapur is a thriving commercial the Shri Mahalakshmi Situated near the
centre, noted today for its or Amba Bai Temple, palace gates are
flourishing dairy industry. It dedicated to the the town’s wrestling
is also one of Maharashtra’s Mother Goddess, is grounds, where young
most important pilgrimage the most venerated. men practise traditional
sites, associated from early Built in the 7th century Indian wrestling, known
times with the worship of by the Chalukya king as kushti.
Shakti (the Mother Goddess). Karnadeva, the temple’s The New Palace, 2 km
Ruled by the Hindu Yadava idol, said to be a Kolhapuri (1 mile) north of the city
dynasty between the 10th swayambhu, or naturally chappal centre, was completed in
and 13th centuries, it was later occurring monolith, is 1881 and designed by
occupied by the Mughals. encrusted with diamonds Major Charles Mant (see p422),
In 1659, Kolhapur was finally and other precious stones. The who merged European, Jain,
seized by the Maratha chief mandapa has a finely carved Hindu and Islamic elements
Shivaji (see p475), and was ceiling. Behind the temple are to create a style that widely

The Malvan Coast
The Southern Konkan coastline in the Sindhudurg district, known as the
Malvan Coast, is dotted with marine forts and pretty fishing villages that
are worth visiting. Vijaydurg Fort, 525 km (326 miles) south of Mumbai,
stands on the site of an 11th-century fort, rebuilt by the Bijapur sultans
(see pp546–7) in the 16th century. In 1654, it was further renovated by
Shivaji, who added three layers of fortifications, 27 bastions and 300 guns.
Fishing boat, Malvan coast It became the main naval base for the great Maratha admiral Kanhoji
Angre, who used the fort to plunder European ships in 1698. It fell to the
British in 1756; a platform stands within the grounds, where British astronomers set up their telescopes
to study a solar eclipse. About 74 km (46 miles) south of Vijaydurg, Sindhudurg Fort, built by Shivaji
in 1664, lies deserted on an island known as Kurte. With its 10-m (33-ft) high ramparts, it was a Maratha
stronghold until power shifted to Vijaydurg. Shivaji’s palm and feet impressions are preserved in mortar
near the entrance. The fort contains the only temple of Shivaji in the world and is the only place in
Maharashtra where a statue of Shivaji depicts him without a beard. The small port of Malvan, 4 km
(2 miles) north of Sindhudurg, lends its name to this stretch of coast. It has developed into a beach
resort, as has Vengurla, 56 km (35 miles) to the south.
Savantwadi, 25 km (16 miles) east of
Vengurla, was the capital of the Bhonsle
kings. The art of making ganjifa cards
(painted, circular playing cards) was
developed here. The town is also
known for its wooden toys and
lacquer work. Amboli, 25 km
(16 miles) northeast of Savantwadi,
is a pretty hill station. Vijaydurg Fort, overlooking fishing boats in the bay

For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp700–701 and p715


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M AHAR ASHTR A  473


became known as the Indo-
Saracenic style of architecture.
The palace is today the Shahaji
Chhatrapati Museum and displays
a collection of royal memorabilia,
including garments, hunting
photographs and one of Mughal
emperor Aurangzeb’s swords.
The Town Hall, another
structure designed by Charles
Mant, has a small museum
with a number of artifacts from
nearby excavation sites. Kolhapur
is also famous for its hand-
crafted leather slippers, known
as Kolhapuri chappals. Panchgani, with spectacular views of the Krishna river
P Old Palace in Panhala as well, including that (870 miles), stretching from this
Open daily. of the famous Indian singer Lata spot to the Bay of Bengal on the
Mangeshkar (see p507). east coast. The temple has a
P New Palace
Open daily. & Shahaji Chhatrapati venerated, naturally occurring
Museum: Open Tue–Sun. Shivalinga, and a small tank. There
5 Mahabaleshwar are two other temples here,
Environs Satara district. 115 km (71 miles) dedicated to Hanuman and
One of the most important SW of Pune. * 13,400. Rama. There are also several berry
forts in the Deccan is at Panhala, @ Cycles available. farms close by, where visitors
a hill station 19 km (12 miles) can help to pick strawberries,
northwest of Kolhapur. Situated The largest hill station in raspberries and mulberries.
on a steep hillside, the fortress Maharashtra, Mahabalesh-war
is well protected by three is situated 1,372 m (4,501 ft) Environs
impressive double walled gates, above sea level. In 1828, Sir John The hill station of Panchgani,
and 7-km (4-mile) long ramparts. Malcolm, Governor of Bombay, 18 km (11 miles) east of
Within its walls stand two chose this beautiful spot as the Mahabaleshwar, is surrounded
temples, one dedicated to Amba site for the official sanatorium. by five hills. The town is the
Bai and the other to Maruti, the Soon after, the wooded slopes starting point for many scenic
Wind God. The most interesting were covered with typical trekking trails (see p477). It
monuments are the huge stone colonial structures, is also dotted with some
granaries, the largest of which, among them Christ charming old British and
Ganga Kothi, covers 948 sq m Church, Frere Hall, Parsi bungalows, some
(10,204 sq ft). Established in the Government House of which can be visited.
12th century by Raja Bhoja II, (which was the grand The majestic hill-top
the fortress fell successively residence of the forts of Pratapgarh and
to the Yadavas, the Adil Shahis governor), the Raigad, 18 km (11 miles)
of Bijapur, Shivaji, Emperor Maha baleshwar Club, west and 70 km
Aurangzeb and the British. and the ever-popular Water spout, (43 miles) northwest
There are many private homes polo grounds and Krishna Temple of Mahabaleshwar
race course. respectively, were both
Due to its high altitude, Maratha strongholds. They offer
the town has a cool climate commanding views of the
and offers many pleasant walks. surrounding countryside.
There are also several lookout About 111 km (69 miles) south
points such as Mumbai Point, of Mahabaleshwar is Chiplun,
from where the sea can be seen lying on the banks of the
on a clear day, and Arthur’s Seat, Vashishti river, whose waters
which affords panoramic views supply Koyna Lake, a large man-
of the Konkan Coast. Venna made reservoir. The town is well-
Lake has facilities for boating. known for its irrigation scheme,
In the old town is the sacred developed in the 1980s, that
Krishna Temple, supposedly provides water to the coastal
built on the legendary site of the fringe between the Sahyadri
Panchganga, or source of five Hills and the sea. This quiet
rivers – the Koyna, Savitri, Venna, place offers splendid views
Panhala Fort in the picturesque Sahyadri Gayatri and the mighty Krishna. of the Vashishti river as it winds
Hills, after the monsoon The latter covers some 1,400 km through the hills.




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474  SOUTHWESTERN INDIA


Park in the north of the city. gardens, such as Empress
The flamboyant pop mystic, Botanical Gardens and Bund
or “sex guru” as he was Gardens. Pune is the centre
called, had a meteoric rise of Maratha culture, with a lively
in the West. Even after his tradition of theatre, classical
demise in 1990, his well- music and dance. It is also
appointed ashram continues an important university town
to attract devotees from and is home to the prestigious
Europe and America. government-run Film and
Housed in a traditional Television Institute of India and
Maratha house or wada, the National Film Archive of India.
is the charming privately
owned Raja Dinkar Kelkar Environs
Museum. On display is About 24 km (15 miles) south-
a collection of beautiful west is the National Defence
everyday objects such Academy, the training school
as pots, lamps, pens, ink for army, navy and air force
stands, nutcrackers, and cadets, at Khadakvasla. Further
The sprawling campus of Pune University other utilitarian items. southwest are the forts of
An interesting piece is a Rajgad and Sinhgad (the “Lion
6 Pune Maharashtrian Chitrakathi scroll Fort”). The latter is associated
painting, which was used in folk with Shivaji’s general, Tanaji
Pune district. 163 km (101 miles)
SE of Mumbai. * 3,124,500. theatre performances. Malusare. According to legend,
~ 12 km (7 miles) NE of city centre, The Tribal he tied strong
then , shuttle bus, taxi or auto. £ Museum, east of ropes to monitor
@ n Maharashtra Tourism, I Block, the railway station, lizards, made the
Central Bldg, (020) 2612 6867. showcases the creatures stick
_ Ganesha Chaturthi (Aug/Sep). state’s tribal cultures, to the fort walls
especially from with their adhesive
The fast-growing, industrial city the Sahyadri and A Warli painting from Raja foot pads, and
of Pune is situated on the Deccan Gondwana regions. Dinkar Kelkar Museum thus scaled the
Plateau, at the confluence of The Aga Khan walls and managed
the Mutha and Mula rivers, and Palace, across the Mula river to to capture the fort.
is bounded by the Sahyadris in the north of the city, is where
the west. Its pleasant climate and Mahatma Gandhi was E Osho International
prox imity to Mumbai made it the imprisoned by the British for Commune
perfect monsoon capital for two years; today, it is the Gandhi Tel (020) 6601 9999. Open daily. & 8
the British in the 19th cen tury. National Memorial. Gandhi’s E Raja Dinkar Kelkar Museum
Then called Poona, it became an wife, Kasturba, died here, and 1378, Shukrawar Peth.
important administrative centre her ashes have been interred Tel (020) 2447 4466. Open daily.
and military cantonment. Even in a memorial in the gardens. Closed public hols. &
today, the Indian army’s Southern Other places of interest in the
Command is based here. city include St Mary’s Church, a E Tribal Museum
Pune was also the childhood fine garrison structure consecrated 28 Queen’s Garden, off Koregaon Rd.
home of the Maratha leader, in 1825; the rock-cut Pataleshwar Open Mon–Sat. Closed public hols.
Shivaji. From 1750 until 1817, it Cave Temple, dating from the E Aga Khan Palace
was the capital of the Maratha 8th century; the Parvati Temple Ahmednagar Rd. Tel (020) 2668
Confederacy and was ruled by perched on a hilltop; and fine 0250. Open daily. &
the Peshwas. The remains of their
Shaniwar Wada Palace is in the
old city. Built in 1736, the palace
was razed in a fire in 1828. Only
its outer walls and the main
entrance with large spikes,
designed to deter the enemy’s
elephants, survive. Further
south is Vishram Bagh Wada,
a beautiful Peshwa palace with
an elaborate wooden façade.
For many visitors, Pune is
synonymous with the famous
Osho International Commune
founded by Bhagwan Rajneesh
or Osho, and situated at Koregaon Vishram Bagh Wada, a Peshwa palace in the heart of the old city
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp700–701 and p715


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Shivaji and the Marathas

Maharashtra’s greatest hero, Shivaji, was born in 1627 to Shahji Bhonsle, a chieftain from
Pune who served the sultans of Bijapur (see pp546–9). Daring, ambitious and restless
since his boyhood, by the age of 19 he had become the head of a band of intrepid
fighters. Soon, Shivaji’s brilliant guerrilla tactics against Emperor Aurangzeb and the
powerful Mughal army, and his swift conquests of mountain and sea forts, enabled him
to establish a separate Maratha kingdom. In 1674, he was crowned Chhatrapati, the
traditional title of a Hindu monarch, at his capital, Raigad. When he died in 1680, at the
age of 53, he left behind a powerful Maratha state, which continued to play an important
role in Indian history for the next 100 years.






Waghnakh
(“tiger’s claw”),
a deadly hand
weapon, was
used by Shivaji to
overcome and kill
Afzal Khan, the Bijapur
general, in a “friendly”
meeting at Pratapgarh.


Maratha
horsemen were
feared for their lightning raids which wrought havoc
on enemy territory. The Deccan Plateau’s hilly terrain
aided their guerrilla tactics against the Mughals.

Shivaji is revered all over Maharashtra
as a god-like hero. A fearless soldier and
charismatic leader, he united the Marathas
into a formidable force that defied the
mighty Mughals. Today, he has become a
symbol for the Hindu Revivalist Movement.












Shaniwar Wada was the former residence of
Fortresses, such as Rajgad and Raigad the Peshwas, who came to power after Shivaji’s
(see p473) and the sea forts (see p472) along grandson’s death. The other main clans of the
the west coast, were the key to Maratha strategy Maratha Confederacy – which was a significant
and success. Shivaji’s conquest of the crucial power in the 18th century – were Holkars
Purandhar Fort in c.1649 compelled the sultan (see p250), Scindias (see pp232–3), Gaekwads
of Bijapur to condemn him as a rebel. (see p422) and Bhonsles (see p472).





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476  SOUTHWESTERN INDIA


8 Matheran
Raigarh district. 118 km (73 miles)
NW of Pune. * 4,400. £ From
Neral Junction, take the toy train
to Matheran (2 hrs). @
n Opp railway station.
The closest hill station to
Mumbai, Matheran (meaning
“Mother Forest” or “Forest on
Top”) lies at a height of 803 m
(2,635 ft) above sea level. This
The Buddhist chaitya griha at Karla Caves, near Lonavla pic turesque town is situated in
the forested Sahyadri Hills. In
7 Lonavla from the 2nd to 1st centuries 1855, Lord Elphinstone, the
BC. The splendid chaitya griha governor of Bombay, visited
Pune district. 62 km (39 miles)
NW of Pune. * 57,700. £ (see p24), the largest and best- Matheran, and the town soon
@ Karla Caves: n Maharashtra preserved of the early Buddhist became fashionable. The stately
Tourism, Karla, (02114) 282 230. caves in the Deccan, is the Elphinstone Lodge that he built
Open daily. & Bhaja Caves: & most significant sight here. It became his weekend retreat. A
has a magnificently sculpted railway line was laid in 1907, and
Situated on the main train line courtyard, a towering 14-m a quaint toy train (see p753) still
from Mumbai to Pune, Lonavla (46-ft) high façade with a winds its way slowly through
was once a sleepy hill station horseshoe shaped window, hills and forests from the junction
famous for its chikki, a type and a large pillared hall with at Neral. All motor vehicles are
of caramelized sweet. It has a monolithic stupa. The 20-odd completely banned within the
now become an extremely Bhaja Caves, located 3 km limits of the town, making it
popular weekend getaway (2 miles) off the Karla uniquely peaceful, despite the
for city-dwellers from road, are the oldest in burgeoning crowds of visitors,
nearby Mumbai. the region, dating particularly on weekends.
Spread around the back to the 2nd Matheran has as many as
bustling main street, century BC. Cave 12, 33 lookout points. Porcupine
lined with souvenir a chaitya griha, still Point, or Sunset Point, a favourite
shops, the town offers contains the remains with sightseers, is known for its
pleasant walks and is of wooden beams on spectacular sunsets. Louisa Point
a convenient base its ceiling. On either has views of the ruined Prabal
for exploring the side of the façade Fort and a mountain trail called
surrounding hills. Statue of a divine are carvings of Shivaji’s Ladder. By far the most
couple, Karla Caves multistoreyed impressive viewpoint is Hart
Environs structures with Point, from where it is possible,
About 8 km (5 miles) northwest windows and balconies. on a clear day, to see as far as
of Lonavla is Khandala, another The Bedse Caves, situated Mumbai. St Paul’s Anglican Church,
pretty town with panoramic 9 km (6 miles) southeast of the pretty Lord’s Mountain and
views of the scenic Western Bhaja, date to the 1st century Valley Resort and the Roman
Ghats. The famous Buddhist AD. The roof of the main Catholic Church are among
rock-cut Karla Caves, 11 km cave bears faint traces the many Raj-era buildings
(7 miles) east of Lonavla, date of paintings. in Matheran.
















Splendid views at Porcupine Point, also known as Sunset Point, Matheran
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp700–701 and p715


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(see pp548–9) and Golconda
(see pp670–71). In 1636, the Festivals of
kingdom finally submitted Maharashtra
to Mughal rule. Janmashtami (Aug/Sep).
The rulers of the Nizam Shahi The birth of Lord Krishna is
dynasty were great builders, celebrated enthusiastically
and their style of architecture all over the state. Pots of
shows an unmistakeable Persian butter are strung high in
influence. The Ahmadnagar the streets, and human
Fort, 4 km (2 miles) northeast pyramids attempt to reach
of the station, was built in them, imitating the god’s
1490, though the impressive childhood pranks.
stone walls were added in
1563. Its palace, the only
surviving structure, consists
of a large hall with a series of
Intricate carved stonework seen in domes. In 1942 it housed an
Damri Mosque important political prisoner,
Jawaharlal Nehru, who wrote
9 Ahmadnagar his famous book, The Discovery
of India, here. The Jama Masjid
Ahmadnagar district. 120 km (75 miles)
NE of Pune. * 350,900. £ @ dates to the same period.
Nearby is the ornate Damri
The seat of a powerful Muslim Mosque. Built in 1568, it
kingdom in the 16th century, has a cut-out trefoil parapet
Ahmadnagar was founded and finials topped by
in 1490 by Ahmad Nizam miniature pavilions.
Shah Bahri, the son of a Hindu Emperor Aurangzeb died Janmashtami in Mumbai
convert. In 1599, the Mughals, in Ahmadnagar in 1707, and
led by Akbar, invaded the city his body rested briefly at the Naga Panchami (Jul/Aug).
after his favourite commander small Alamgir Dargah, near Snakes, considered powerful
Abu’l Fazl murdered the ruling the cantonment, before being creatures and revered across
sultan. However, the sultan’s interred at Khuldabad (see 479). India, are worshipped during
sister, Chand Bibi, ably defended To the west of the town this festival. After being fed
the kingdom. The succeeding lies Bagh Rauza, a walled cupfuls of milk, they are taken
years saw the rise of Malik garden complex. It contains out in colourful processions
and later released into
Ambar, a former African slave, the mausoleum of Ahmad the fields.
who fought successful battles Nizam Shah Bahri, which has
against neighbouring Bidar a lavishly decorated interior. Ganesha Chaturthi (Aug/
Sep). This is the most signif-
icant festival in Maharashtra,
Hiking in the Sahyadris celebrated with particular
fervour in Pune and Mumbai.
The Western Ghats, also known in Maharashtra as the Sahyadris, Clay idols of Lord Ganesha
run parallel to India’s west coast and stretch across the states of (see p471) are made and then
Maharashtra, Karnataka, Tamil Nadu and Kerala. Formed from volcanic worshipped over 10 days,
rock, the hills are a maze of ridges and valleys. In Maharashtra, the amidst lively festivities. After
many popular hill stations serve as excellent starting points for a this they are led in colourful
number of scenic walking trails. Mahabaleshwar and Panchgani processions to the closest
are particularly well marked with hiking routes that lead through water body and immersed.
lush forests and valleys. These hills also have a wealth of craggy rock- Kalidasa Festival (Nov),
faces perfect for climbing, and Lonavla is a favourite base for rock- Nagpur. Some of the most
climbing enthusiasts. Matheran has a much-trodden path known renowned exponents of
as Shivaji’s Ladder, which classical music and dance
leads from One Tree gather at this festival, orga nized
Hill down to the valley to honour the 4th-century
below. The Sahyadri Sanskrit dramatist and
Hills are particularly poet, Kalidasa.
beautiful in September
after the rains, when Elephant Caves Festival
the hills are carpeted (Feb/Mar), Mumbai. This
with wild flowers and festival pre sents a variety of
cascading waterfalls Indian classical music and
seem to appear at dance legends at a UNESCO
Rugged ranges of the Sahyadri Hills every turn. World Heritage site.




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478  SOUTHWESTERN INDIA


inscriptions above its after himself – that he
entrance. Cave 18, an early conquered the Deccan states.
chaitya griha (see p476), has The city’s most famous
a beautifully carved exterior. monument is the Bibi ka
Other fine caves include Maqbara. Located outside the
Caves 3 and 20. The sacred walled city, this imitation of
Trimbakeshwar Temple, the Taj was built in 1678 by
33 km (21 miles) west of Aurangzeb’s son, Azam Shah,
Nasik, is built on the site of in memory of his mother Rabia
one of Shiva’s 12 naturally Durrani. Standing in the middle
occurring jyotirlingas (lingas of a large Mughal garden, it has
of light). It is surrounded four disproportionately large
by a large paved platform minarets at the ends of its
and has a carved shikhara. raised platform. Like the Taj, it
Though the temple is uses white marble and stucco,
closed to non-Hindus, but there is none of the fine
visitors can still get a good pietra dura work that
view of the courtyard and distinguishes Shah Jahan’s
The holy tank of Ramkund, Nasik the shrine leading off it. creation (see pp176–9).
About 88 km (56 miles) Aurangzeb’s walled city
0 Nasik south of Nasik is Shirdi, the makes up the central part of the
temple complex of the first town, although a few structures
Nasik district. 187 km (116 miles) NE
of Mumbai. * 1,487,000. £ @ Sai Baba, Maharashtra’s most from Malik Ambar’s older city
n Maharashtra Tourism, (0253) 257 popular saint, who died in 1918. remain, including the Naukonda
0059. _ Kumbh Mela (every 12 years). Palace, or Naukhanda Palace,
(largely in ruins) and the Jama
The town of Nasik is one of India’s q Aurangabad Masjid. On the left bank of the
most holy sites. A bustling Aurangabad district. 337 km (210 Khan river is the Dargah of
temple town, built on both miles) NE of Mumbai. * 1,175,100. ~ Baba Shah Musafir, a Sufi saint
banks of the Godavari river, it 10 km (6 miles) E of town centre, then who was Aurangzeb’s spiritual
has almost 200 shrines. The taxi. £ @ n Maharashtra Tourism, guide. The complex contains a
ghats that line the river front are Station Rd East, (0240) 234 3169. small mosque, a madrasa
the venue for the spectacular (theological college), a law
Kumbh Mela (see p215). Legend The largest city in northern court, the zenana (women’s
says that Rama, hero of the Maharashtra, Aurangabad quarters) and a water mill
Ramayana (see p31), lived is the nearest air-link to (Panchakki), fed by a
here during his 14-year exile. the splendid caves at rectangular tank.
Ramkund, the centrally located Ellora and Ajanta (see Also within the
tank and the town’s focal point, pp480–85). It was old city, close to
is believed to mark the spot founded in 1610 by Zafar Gate, is the
where Rama and his wife Sita Malik Ambar, prime Himroo Factory.
bathed. The ashes of the dead minister of the Nizam Aurangabad is
are also immersed here. Shahi rulers of Detail of the entrance famed for its ancient
Most of Nasik’s temples date Ahmadnagar (see door, Bibi ka Maqbara art of weaving
to the 18th century. The Kala p477). In 1653 it brocade, using silk
Rama Temple, east of Ramkund, became the head quarters of and gold threads, known as
is built in black stone with a Aurangzeb, the last great kamkhab. When the city’s
25-m (82-ft) high shikhara. It Mughal emperor. It was from prosperity declined, the weavers
supposedly marks the spot this city – which he renamed began using less-expensive
where Sita was abducted by
Ravana. The Rameshwar Temple
has carvings on the roof of its
hall, while the Muktidham
Temple, close to the station,
carries inscriptions from the
Bhagavad Gita on its walls.
Environs
Pandu Lena, 8 km (5 miles)
south of Nasik, has 24 Buddhist
caves dating to the 1st and 2nd
centuries BC. The oldest is Cave
10, a vihara (monastery) which
has splendid sculptures and Aurangabad’s Bibi ka Maqbara, an imitation of Agra’s Taj Mahal
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp700–701 and p715


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M AHAR ASHTR A  479

w Daulatabad into Kataka, the inner fort.
Gateways lead through fortified
Aurangabad district. 13 km (8 miles)
NW of Aurangabad. @ Bus tours walls into the base of the citadel,
are offered by Maharashtra Tourism, known as Balakot, separated
Aurangabad, (0240) 234 3169. by a moat that was once
Taxis & jeeps also available from infested by crocodiles.
Aurangabad. Open daily. & Near the innermost gate lies
the blue-and-white tiled Chini
Perched on a granite outcrop Mahal, where the last sultan of
of the Deccan Plateau, this Golconda was imprisoned by
formidable fort has witnessed Aurangzeb in 1687. On a nearby
some of the greatest carnage in bastion is the enormous bronze
the region. Originally known as cannon, the Qila Shikhan or
Deogiri, it was captured in 1296 “Fort Breaker”. This 6-m (20-ft)
by Alauddin Khilji, the Deccan’s long cannon has a splendid ram’s
An ornately carved pillared hall in Cave 3, first Muslim invader from Delhi. head, and Persian inscriptions
Aurangabad Caves He was followed by Muhammad along its length refer to it as
bin Tughluq, who annexed the the “Creator of Storms”. A series
cotton and silver threads, fort in 1328 and renamed the of dark tunnels lead to the
producing himroo, which literally town Daulatabad (“City of citadel’s heart and end near
means similar. A variety of such Fortune”). In a fit of misguided a pillared pavilion, Baradari, a
shawls and saris are available reasoning, he decided to shift late Mughal building. The fort’s
in showrooms across town. his capital here, and compelled ramparts offer sweeping views.
The factory also produces rich Delhi’s entire population
Paithani saris, intricately woven to march across 1,127 km Environs
with gold thread. (700 miles). Thousands died The walled village of Khuldabad
of starvation or disease along (“Heavenly Abode”) is 10 km
Environs the way, and when (6 miles) north of Daulatabad.
About 3 km (2 miles) the move failed, the The Alamgir Dargah, dedicated
north are the sultan and his court to the Muslim saint, Sayeed
Aurangabad Caves. marched back to Zain-ud-din, (d.1370), is its most
Mainly excavated Delhi. Daulatabad famous monument. Also known
during the Vakataka was successively as Rauza, this reli gious complex,
and Kalachuri conquered by the established by Sufi saints in the
periods (6th and 7th Deccani Bahmani 14th century, was considered
centuries), these caves sultans, the Nizam so sacred that several Deccani
can be divided into Shahis, the Mughals, sultans chose to be buried here.
two groups. Of the the Marathas and Emperor Aurangzeb, who died
five caves in the Himroo fabric, finally, the Nizam in the Deccan in 1707, is buried in
western group, the Aurangabad of Hyderabad – a simple tomb in the courtyard.
oldest is Cave 4, dating each conquest The beautiful tomb of Malik
to the 1st century AD. It is a fine proving more bloody and Ambar (see p477), is a short
chaitya griha with a monolithic savage than the last. distance to the north.
stupa. Carved on the rock face The pyramid-shaped hill,
outside is a superb image of on which the imposing fort
the Buddha, seated on a lion is built, stands apart from the
throne. Cave 3 (5th century) surrounding ranges, and towers
has an inge niously designed to a height of 183 m (600 ft).
pillared hall that is acoustically This made Mughal emperor
sensitive and amplifies sound. Shah Jahan’s chronicler note
Inside the inner sanctum, a that “neither ant nor snake could
Seated Buddha is flanked by scale it”. Four solid concentric
devotees with floral offerings. walls protect the fort. The first
The eastern group, nearby, of its three zones is Ambarkot,
comprises four caves. Cave 6 has the outer fort. Within stands the
delicately sculpted Bodhisattvas, 60-m (197-ft) high victory tower,
surrounded by flying figures. Chand Minar, built in 1435 by
The most splendid of the caves Alauddin Bahmani to celebrate
is Cave 7, a sumptuous shrine his conquest of the fort. In the
with large sculptures of Tara and nearby Jama Masjid, 106 pillars
Avalo kitesvara (see p145). Its inner from Jain and Hindu temples
sanctum has a superb frieze of a separate the main hall into 25
female dancer accompanied by aisles. A triple gateway studded Chand Minar, once covered in glazed
seven musicians. with iron spikes provides access Persian tiles, Daulatabad




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480  SOUTHWESTERN INDIA

e Ellora: Kailasanatha Temple

The finest of the Ellora group of rock-cut caves is the
magnificent Kailasanatha Temple (Cave 16), a UNESCO
World Heritage Site. Commissioned by the Rashtrakuta
king Krishna I in the 8th century, this mammoth complex,
spanning 84 m (276 ft) by 47 m (154 ft), was carved out
of a huge rocky cliff face. Sculptors chiselled through . The Roof
85,000 cubic metres (approximately 3 million cubic ft) The mandapa (assembly hall)
of rock, beginning at the top of the cliff and working roof is embellished by a lotus
their way down. The resulting marvel, embellished carved in concentric rings,
with huge sculptural panels, was meant to depict topped by four stone lions.
Mount Kailasa, the sacred abode of Lord Shiva.


KEY
1 Courtyard has two life-size
elephants on either side.
2 The Nandi Pavilion
3 The tower rises almost 33 m
(107 ft), and was once covered in
white plaster, to replicate Mount
Kailasa’s snowy peaks.
4 Rock-cut monasteries
5 Ramayana panels flank the
south wall, while the north wall has
Mahabharata and Krishna legends.

















Obelisks
Flanking the
Nandi Pavilion
are two
monolithic
pillars, 17 m
(56 ft) high,
with carvings
of lotus friezes
and garlands.

. Lakshmi with Elephants
Facing the entrance, the ornate Gaja lakshmi
panel in the Nandi Pavilion depicts Lakshmi
seated in a lotus pond and being bathed by
elephants bearing upturned pots in their trunks.
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp700–701 and p715


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M AHAR ASHTR A  481


VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
Practical Information
Aurangabad district. 30 km
(19 miles) NW of Aurangabad
Open Wed–Mon (all caves). &
Flash photography is prohibited.
Light is best in the afternoon. 8
Take packed lunch, a torch, wear
comfortable shoes and a sun hat.
Supporting Elephants
Elephants with lotuses in their trunks are Transport
@ Jeeps are also available at
carved all along the lower storey, and
appear to support the structure. Aurangabad and tour operators
also organize trips.





























. Ravana Shaking
Mount Kailasa
A large panel depicts
Ravana (the demon king
in the Ramayana) shaking
Mount Kailasa in order to
disturb Shiva and Parvati
in their mountain home.
0 metres 10
0 yards 10




Three Goddesses
The Hall of Sacrifice contains
life-size images of Durga,
Chamunda and Kali, as well as
of Ganesha, Parvati and the
seven mother goddesses.




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482  SOUTHWESTERN INDIA


Exploring Ellora
The 34 caves at Ellora, hewn from
a 2-km (1-mile) long escarpment,
are among the most splendid
examples of rock-cut architecture
in India.
The emergence and growing
importance of Ellora coincided
with the decline of Buddhism,
and a Hindu renaissance under
the Chalukya and Rashtrakuta
dynasties (7th–9th centuries AD).
Ellora was situated on an
important trade route that Dramatic Ellora escarpment with its seasonal waterfall
ran between Ujjain in Madhya
Pradesh and the west coast. It carved in front of a votive stupa, or Rameshvara, and Cave 29,
was the revenue from this very placed under a vaulted roof. or Dhumar Lena, are other
lucrative trade that sustained It is so intricately carved that it impressive caves.
500 years of excavation at Ellora, seems to be made of wood. The Jain Caves (30 to 34) date
as the older Ajanta caves began Other important caves are Cave from Ellora’s last stage, in the 9th
to be abandoned. 11, or Do Thal (two-storeyed), century, and are simpler than the
The caves at Ellora fall into and Cave 12, or Tin Thal (three- Hindu ones. Cave 32, or Indra
three distinct groups – Buddhist, storeyed). The upper hall of Sabha, is the finest of the group.
Hindu and Jain – and they are Cave 12 has large Bodhisattvas A monolithic shrine, it has
numbered from the southern carved on its walls, while rows carvings of elephants, lions and
end. The Buddhist Caves (1 to of seven Buddha figures flank the tirthankaras (see p401) on the
12) date from the Chalukya entrance to the antechamber. courtyard walls. Cave 30, or Chhota
period, bet ween the 7th and The Hindu Caves (13 to 29), Kailasa, is a small, incomplete
8th centuries. The first nine are were carved out between the 7th replica of the Kailasanatha
variations of viharas or monasteries, and 9th centuries, and represent Temple (see pp480–81) and has
and are filled with fine Buddha the peak of Ellora’s development. sculptures of various tirthankaras
figures, Bodhisattvas and scenes Cave 14, or Ravana ki Khai, contains and Mahavira on a lion-throne.
from Buddhist mythology. The impressive sculptures of deities
most splendid is Cave 10, or from the Hindu pantheon, such Environs
Vishwakarma (“Carpenter’s as Durga slaying the buffalo The 18th-century Grishneshvara
Cave”), named after the celestial demon, and Vishnu as the boar- Temple, nearby, is one of the
carpenter. A striking chaitya griha headed Varaha. Cave 15, or 12 jyotirlinga shrines dedicated
(see p24), it is dominated by a Dashavatara, also has superb to Shiva, built by Rani Ahilyabai
figure of the Teaching Buddha sculptural depictions. Cave 21, of Indore (see p254).

Ellora Caves 30-34
29 Dhumar
Lena
28
27
26
24 23 25
Girija 22
21 Rameshvara
20
19
18
Grishneshvara
•
Temple 16 Kailasanatha
Temple
15 Dashavatara
14 Ravana ki Khai
13
0 metres 300 12 Tin Thal
11 Do Thal
0 yards 300 10 Vishwakarma
6-9
4 5
3
The upper-storey hall, Vishwakarma (Cave 10) 1 2
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp700–701 and p715

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M AHAR ASHTR A  483


Ajanta 19 17 16
Caves 20 18 15
14
13 12 11
21 10
22 9
23
8
7
24
6
25 5 4
26
27
3
2
0 metres 100 1
Façade of Cave 19, Ajanta, with a large 0 yards 100
horseshoe-shaped window
r Ajanta they are of two types – chaitya griha, has a façade adorned with
grihas (prayer halls) and viharas windows and lattice-work. The
Aurangabad district. 110 km
(68 miles) NE of Aurangabad. (monas teries). The chaityas have large Buddha figures along the
@ from Aurangabad. Open Tue–Sun. vaulted ceilings and octagonal sides were a later addition (5th
& Flash photography is prohibited. columns that divide the space century), and its murals are from
= 0 8 Organized tours & taxis into a central hall with a votive both periods. Cave 10 is thought
are also available from Aurangabad. stupa, the object of veneration. to be Ajanta’s oldest cave and
Take a packed lunch, bottled water, The side aisles that run around is one of its finest chaitya grihas.
torch, and wear comfortable the hall were used for ritual Caves 15 to 20 are late-5th-
shoes and a sun hat. circumambulation. The Mahayana century Mahayana caves. Cave
chaityas also have Buddha 16 has sculptures of beautiful
A UNESCO World Heritage Site, images. Viharas typically have a maidens flanking the doorway,
the 30 extraordinary rock-cut verandah, a hall surrounded by while in Cave 17 the entrance
caves at Ajanta lie within a cells, and an inner shrine with to the inner shrine is
horseshoe-shaped escarpment, enormous Buddha figures. ornamented with Buddha
overlooking the narrow Waghora Of the seven Mahayana caves, figures, goddesses and lotuses.
river gorge. At its head is a dating from the 5th century AD, Caves 21 to 27 (7th century),
waterfall that drops into the Cave 1 is famous for its splendid make up the final group. Cave
Saptakunda pool. The caves were murals (see pp484–5). Above its 26 displays the full magnificence
occupied for only a short period, verandah are friezes of scenes of Ajanta’s sculptural art.
and, over time, the surrounding from the Buddha’s life, while its Especially remarkable are two
jungle concealed their existence. ceiling is supported by 20 carved splendid panels – one depicts
They were “rediscovered” quite and painted pillars. Cave 2 has the Temptation of the Buddha
accidentally in 1819, when a superb façade carved with by the Demon Mara, while the
John Smith, of the 28th Madras images of Naga kings and their Parinirvana is a 7-m (23-ft)
Cavalry, suddenly saw the top attendants (ganas), while its image of the reclining Buddha,
of the façade of Cave 10 while main shrine has a magnif icent with his eyes closed as if in sleep.
on a tiger hunt. painted ceiling. His disciples mourn his passing,
Ajanta’s caves fall into two Caves 8, 9, 10, 12, 13 and 15 are while above, celestial beings
groups. The early group belongs Hinayana caves. Cave 9, a chaitya rejoice in his salvation.
to the more austere Hinayana
phase of Buddhism (2nd–1st
century BC), during which the
Buddha was not represented
in human form but only by
symbols such as a Wheel of
Law or a Bodhi Tree. The second
group dates from the Mahayana
period (5th–6th centuries AD)
carved out during the rule of the
Vakataka dynasty, when artistic
expression was more exuberant.
The caves were inhabited by
monks, artists and craftsmen,
who used them as varsh-vatikas
or monsoon shrines. Stylistically The moving Parinirvana, depicting the passing of the Buddha, Cave 26




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484  SOUTHWESTERN INDIA


The Ajanta Murals

The earliest and finest examples of Buddhist painting in
India can be seen at the Ajanta caves. Executed between
the 2nd century BC and the 5th century AD, the murals
show scenes from the Buddha’s life, and from the Jataka
Tales, which recount stories of the Buddha’s previous
incarnations as an enlightened being or Bodhisattva.
Magnificent, detailed compo sitions, the murals include
depictions of court scenes, princes and musicians, and
offer fascinating glimpses of daily life in the 5th century.
The colours, derived from plants and minerals, are in
rich shades of ochre, lime, black, green and lapis lazuli. Avalokitesvara, also identified
as Vajrapani, is the most
Cave 1 venerated Bodhisattva in
This late 5th- the Mahayana pantheon,
century vihara and can be seen to the right
(monastery) contains of the antechamber doorway.
some of Ajanta’s most
evocative murals.

The Miracle of
Sravasti, on the
antechamber’s right
wall, depicts a
famous miracle
when the Buddha
multiplied himself a
thousand-fold.

The Mahajanaka
Jataka, to the left
Padmapani (Lotus-Holder), the of the antechamber,
Bodhisattva of Compassion, can be seen recounts the life of
on the wall to the left of the antechamber Prince Mahajanaka,
doorway. He is surrounded by celestial who renounced the
beings and airborne figures. world to become an
ascetic. Here, the
prince is surrounded
by female attendants.

Scenes from the
Mahajanaka Jataka, from
left to right, depict Prince
Mahajanaka, Queen Shivali
A scene depicting a king, possibly enticing the prince, palace
the Vakataka ruler Harisena, greeting maids, and a dancing girl.
a Persian embassy

















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M AHAR ASHTR A  485


Cave 2
Similar in design to Cave 1, this
5th-century vihara is profusely
painted in lustrous colours. The
walls, columns, capitals and
ceiling are covered in scrollwork,
geometric and floral patterns,
and numerous Jataka panels,
including stories connected with
the Buddha’s birth.

The large mandala (circular
diagram) dominates the elaborately
painted ceiling of this remarkable
cave. A depiction of the cosmos, its
outer ring is filled with lotus motifs.
Cave 10
Considered to be Ajanta’s oldest cave, this chaitya griha dates to the
2nd century BC. The left wall has its oldest mural, a frieze depicting a
prince worshipping a Bodhi Tree.


Cave 16
Outstanding paintings
in this cave depict the
conversion of Nanda,
the Buddha’s half-
brother, and show his
wife swooning when
she hears the news of his
becoming a monk.
Numerous figures of the Nanda’s wife, Sundari, fainting upon hearing of
Buddha embellish some of the his conversion
octagonal pillars (39 in all) that
separate the aisles from the
central nave in Cave 10.
Cave 17
This cave has the largest number of
paintings. Among the finest is a vast
panel depicting Simhala’s shipwreck
and encounter with a man-eating
ogress. Also spectacular is a lady at
her toilet, gazing intently into a mirror.
Eight seated Buddha figures are depicted
above the doorway in the verandah, with a row
of amorous couples directly below them.


This detail of an
apsara (celestial
maiden) adoring
the Buddha, is part
of a larger mural on
the verandah to the
right of the door.
A panel from the Visvantara Jataka, to the The Ajanta murals
left of the doorway, depicts Prince Visvantara are renowned for
and his wife drinking wine. They then move to their exquisite
the city gate and give alms to the needy. portrayal of women.





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486  SOUTHWESTERN INDIA


u Nagpur
Nagpur district. 520 km (323 miles) NE
of Aurangabad. * 2,405,700. ~ 10
km (6 miles) S of city centre, then bus
or taxi. £ @ n Maharashtra
Tourism, (0712) 253 3325. _ Pola
(Jul/Aug), Kalidasa Festival (Nov).
Situated on the banks of the
Nag river, Nagpur lies exactly in
the centre of India. The capital
of the Central Provinces until it
became part of Maharashtra
Enormous meteorite crater at Lonar, partially filled by a lake state after Independence, it
is a fast-developing industrial
t Lonar are now threatened by rampant city and the country’s orange-
commercial exploitation for growing capital. Historically, it
Buldana district. 130 km (81 miles)
E of Aurangabad. £ Jalna, 83 km timber. Along with its elusive was the capital of the aboriginal
(52 miles) W of Lonar, then bus. @ 70 tigers, the reserve is home to Gond tribals, until it was
from Aurangabad, taxis also available. about 50 leopards, chausingha captured by the Maratha Bhonsles
(four-horned antelope), dhole (see p472) in 1743, and finally,
The tiny village of Lonar, is famous (Indian wild dog), jungle cats, by the British in 1861.
for its remarkable meteorite hyenas and a rich variety of birds. In October 1956, the city
crater. Thought to be the only The sanctuary also supports witnessed an event of great
hypervelocity impact crater in the state’s largest concentration social importance, when Dr BR
basaltic rock in the world, the of gaur, the endangered Ambedkar, writer of the Indian
mammoth crater, 2 km (1 mile) Indian bison. Constitution and a freedom
in diameter and 700 m (2,297 ft) The best time to visit is fighter born into a lower-caste
deep, is estimated to be about from December to May, when Hindu family, converted to
50,000 years old. Scientists the park is pleasantly cool. Buddhism in a stand against the
believe that the meteorite is still Its five rivers, the Khandu, rigid Hindu caste system. Nearly
buried beneath the southeastern Khapra, Sipna, Garga and 200,000 people followed him,
edge of the crater. A lake fills the Dolar, dry out in summer, and and the movement gathered
bottom, and the ruins of some the few remaining pools of great momentum, resulting in
Hindu temples stand on its shores. rainwater are highly prized about three million conversions.
The crater is rich in birdlife, and as watering holes. Nagpur town is built around
monkeys and herds of deer can Sitabaldi Fort. In the eastern
also be seen. There are a few rest Environs part of the city are the remains
houses that offer rooms and the Chikhaldhara, lying 25 km of the Bhonsle Palace, which
village has some eateries as well. (16 miles) northeast of Melghat, was destroyed by fire in the
is a quaint hill station estab- 19th century. South of the old
y Melghat Tiger lished by the British in 1839. city lie the Chhatris, or memorials
of the Bhonsle kings, while a
Reserve number of colonial buildings
Amravati district. 326 km (203 miles) are situated in the western part
NE of Aurangabad. £ Amravati, of Nagpur. Among them are the
100 km (62 miles) SE of entry point. High Court and the Anglican
Maharashtra Tourism organizes buses Cathedral of All Saints (1851).
or jeeps from Amravati to the park.
n For bookings contact the Field Environs
Director, (0721) 266 2792. Ramtek, 40 km (25 miles)
Open daily. & north east of Nagpur, is
associated with the 14-year
The Project Tiger Reserve of exile of Rama, Sita and
Melghat, which means “Meeting Lakshman, as told in the
Place of the Ghats”, spreads epic Ramayana (see p31).
across the Gawilgarh Hills in the It was the capital of the
southern part of the Satpura Vakataka dynasty between the
Mountains. Its highest altitudes 4th and the 6th centuries, and
are approx imately 1,178 m the fort on the Hill of Rama
(3,865 ft) above sea level. These dates to this period. Its walls,
hills have a dense canopy of the however, were built in 1740,
country’s finest deciduous teak A tiger resting in a tree at the Melghat by the founder of Nagpur’s
and bamboo forests, which Tiger Reserve Bhonsle dynasty, Raghoji I.
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp700–701 and p715


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Date 12th July 2013
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M AHAR ASHTR A  487


Environs
The ashram of Gandhi’s
disciple, Vinobha Bhave, is
10 km (6 miles) north of
Sevagram at Paunar. Bhave
started the successful Bhoodan
Movement (which literally
means “land donation”) that
sought to persuade wealthy
landowners to give portions
of their holdings to the poor.

o Pandharpur
Sholapur district. 250 km (155 miles)
SE of Pune. * 98,900. £ @
Baskets of juicy oranges on sale in Nagpur’s thriving market _ Ashadh Ekadashi Fair (Jul).
Tadoba-Andhari Tiger Reserve, worked for many years. Spread The spiritual capital of
also known as the Jewel of over 40 ha (99 acres) of Maharashtra, Pandharpur is
Vidharba, lies 208 km (129 miles) farmland, the ashram has situated on the banks of the
south of Nagpur. The best time numerous kutirs, or rural Chandrabhaga river and is
to visit this reserve is between dwellings, and several research the site of the sacred shrine
February and May. centres. Gandhi’s personal of Vithoba, an incarnation of
effects, such as his spinning Lord Vishnu. The temple was
wheel and built in 1228 and is
i Wardha spectacles, are on the focal point of a
display. Khadi, the sacred pilgrimage
Wardha district. 493 km (306 miles) coarse home-spun that draws thousands
NE of Aurangabad. £ @ from
Nagpur to Wardha, then bus or auto cotton that Gandhi of Varakaris (members
to Sevagram. Tel (07152) 284 753. made famous as the of one of the state’s
symbol of India’s most popular
Most visitors to Wardha are freedom struggle, is religious sects) every
en route to Mahatma Gandhi’s also on sale. A photo July to attend the
historic Sevagram Ashram, exhibit opposite the Ashadh Ekadashi
now a national institution, main entrance fair. Dindis or group
8 km (5 miles) northwest of depicts scenes from An oil lamp in a processions travel to
Wardha town. Established Gandhi’s life, while a niche, Sevagram Pandharpur from every
by Gandhi in 1936, Sevagram hospital catering to the village in the area,
(“Village of Service”) was based needs of local villagers is accompanied by devotional
on Gandhi’s philosophy of located on the main road. singing. The riverfront, lined
rural economic development. Prayers, which visitors can with numerous bathing ghats,
It became the headquarters attend, are held daily at 4.30am comes alive with crowds of
of India’s National Movement, and 6pm under a pipal tree people, who gather here for
where Gandhi lived and planted by Gandhi. their ritual dip.


















Spartan interior of Mahatma Gandhi’s ashram at Sevagram, near Wardha




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SOUTHWESTERN INDIA  489

GOA

This tiny state, along the Konkan Coast, covers 3,702 sq km (1,429 sq
miles) and consists of just two districts, North and South Goa. Goa’s
distinct culture is a legacy of its colonial past. In 1510, Alfonso de
Albuquerque established a small but powerful Portuguese enclave
here. Though Goa became a part of the Indian Union in 1961, evidence
of the 400-odd years of Portuguese rule is still apparent in the people’s
dress, language, religion and cuisine, and in their music, a fusion of the
plaintive fado with the lilting rhythms of local Konkani folk songs. Today, Goa
is one of India’s most popular holiday destinations, with its idyllic beaches, lush paddy
fields, coconut plantations and villages dotted with pretty whitewashed churches and
grand mansions. Its other attractions include the Hindu temples around Ponda, built
between the 15th and 18th centuries, and the magnificent cathedrals of Old Goa.
Goa’s friendly, easy-going people go out of their way to make visitors feel at home.

Sights at a Glance
Towns & Cities Churches, Seminaries & Historic Sites
1 Panaji Temples 9 Terekhol Fort
5 Mapusa 2 Reis Magos 0 A Walk through Old Goa
7 Pernem q Pilar y Braganza House
t Margao w Ponda Beaches & Beach Towns
e Tambdi Surla 3 Calangute
r Rachol
4 Anjuna
6 Vagator
8 Arambol
u Colva
i Cavelossim
Terek hol o Palolem

Querim • Chapora
Mandrem • NH 66
Morgim •
Bicholim
•
Sanquelim
•
Candolim • Valpoi
Ma ndov i
Fort Aguada
Miramar
Dona Paula Mardol Bondla Londa •
Mormugao NH 66 Sanctuary
Vasco da Gama Z uari NH 4A Molem •
Dabolim Loutolim Bhagwan Mahaveer
•
Sanctuary
Majorda •
• Curtorim
Arabian •
Sea Chandor
Varca • • • Sanguem
Quepem
NH 66
Mobor •
Key
National highway
Cabo da Rama •
Major road
Agonda • • Mallikarjun
Cotigao Wildlife Minor road
Sanctuary Major railway
0 kilometres 20
Galgibaga • Talp ona State border
0 miles 20
Polem •
Pretty interior of the Royal Chapel of St Anthony, near Panaji For keys to symbols see back flap
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490  SOUTHWESTERN INDIA

1 Panaji

Goa’s capital, Panaji, situated at the mouth of the Mandovi river,
is reminiscent of a provincial Mediterranean town. Earlier a
port of the Adil Shahi kings of Bijapur (see pp546–7), it became
a military landing stage and warehouse after the arrival of the
Portuguese in 1510. In 1759, after a series of epidemics in Old
Goa, the viceroy was forced to move his residence to Panaji, or
Panjim as it was then called. However, it was only in 1843 that
the town became the official capital of Portuguese territories
in India. Today, Panaji has a relaxed and friendly ambience, Bright white Church of Our Lady of
notably along the leafy avenues of the old town (see pp492–3). the Immaculate Conception
The newer commercial hub, laid out on a grid, has concrete
structures interspersed with colonial buildings and churches. to Paris, where he won
acclaim as the father of
modern hypnosis.
P Old Secretariat the official residence of the
Avenida Dom Joao Crasto. viceroys – until 1918, when the R Church of Our Lady of the
Closed for renovations. residence moved to the Cabo Immaculate Conception
The riverfront edifice that housed Palace, southwest of Panaji. Church Square. Tel (0832) 242 6939.
the State Legislative Assembly Extensive renovations have Open daily. 5 (English) 8am, Mon–
until the year 2000 is one transformed the original Islamic Sat; 8.15am, Sun.
of Panaji’s oldest buildings. structure into the colonial Overlooking Largo da Igreja or
It was once the summer building it is today, with a sloping “Church Square”, Panaji’s main
palace of Yusuf tiled roof, wide wooden square, is the Church of Our Lady
Adil Shah, Goa’s verandahs and cast-iron of the Immaculate Conception,
16th-century Muslim pillars. The Ashoka the town’s most important
ruler, and fell to the Chakra or the landmark. Portuguese sailors
Portuguese in 1510, Buddhist Wheel of used to come to the original
despite a formidable Law, the emblem chapel, consecrated in 1541,
battery of 55 cannons The 19th-century statue of the Indian to offer thanksgiving prayers
and a salt-water moat of Abbé de Faria government, after their long and treacherous
that protected it. has replaced the voyage from Lisbon.
Rebuilt in 1615, its strategic Portuguese viceroys’ coat of The present church, with its
location made it a point of arms, above the entrance to Baroque façade framed by twin
entry for ships and a stopover the building. towers, was built in 1619. Its
for viceroys and governors en Standing west of the most striking feature, the double
route to Old Goa (see pp500–505). Secretariat is the arresting flight of stairs leading up to the
In 1760, after Old Goa was statue of Abbé de Faria. This church, was added in 1871. The
abandoned in favour of Panaji, Goan priest, who was born in central pediment was built at
the Idalcaon’s Palace (a corruption Candolim in 1756, underwent the same time, as was the belfry
of Adil Shah’s or Khan’s Palace), theological training in Rome. to accommodate the huge
as it was then known, became After his ordination, he moved bell brought from Old Goa’s


















Riverside Secretariat at Panaji, with its tiled roof and colonial façade
For hotels and restaurants in this region see p701 and pp715–16


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Date 12th July 2013
Size 125mm x 217mm

G OA  491


Augustinian monastery These exhibits are now housed VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
(see p500). The chapel in the in the State Museum.
south transept has a fine reredos The grassy square in front Practical Information
(altar screen) retrieved from the of the Institute, Azad Maidan, North Goa district
viceroy’s chapel in the Secretariat. is lined on one side by the (Tiswadi taluka). 588 km
The Baroque splendour of the Police Headquarters, built in (365 miles) S of Mumbai.
main altar and the two transept 1832 with stones from Old * 58,800. n GTDC Paryatan
altars is in sharp contrast to the Goa’s abandoned buildings. The Bhavan, (0832) 243 7132.
_ Feast of Our Lady (Dec);
otherwise simple interior. pavilion in the centre was made
in 1847, using Corinthian pillars Carnival (Feb).
P Menezes taken from a Dominican Transport
Braganza Institute church, dating to the k Dabolim, 30 km (19 miles)
Malacca Rd. mid-16th century. S of town centre, then bus or taxi.
Tel (0832) 222 4143. Inside, a memorial £ Margao, 33 km (21 miles)
Open Mon–Fri. to the freedom fighter SE of town centre.
An excellent example Dr Tristao de Braganza
of 19th-century Cunha has replaced
Portuguese civic an earlier statue Environs
architecture, the The central pavilion, of the first viceroy, Panaji’s nearest beach,
Institute Vasco Azad Maidan Alfonso de Miramar, is 3 km (2 miles) west.
da Gama was Albuquerque, now Dona Paula, 7 km (4 miles)
built to impart knowledge in in the Archaeological Museum southwest of Panaji, is near the
the arts and sciences. It was in Old Goa (see p504). headland dividing the estuaries
later renamed after the journalist of the Zuari and Mandovi rivers.
and philanthropist Luis de E State Museum It is named after a viceroy’s
Menezes Braganza (1878– Patto. Tel (0832) 243 8006. daughter who, the story goes,
1938), whose family home Open Mon–Fri. Closed public hols. jumped into the sea when she
is in Chandor (see pp512–13). This museum houses a rather wasn’t allowed to marry a local
Today, this is Goa’s Central modest collection of pre- fisherman. The jetty offers fine
Library, with a good collection colonial artifacts, including views of Fort Aguada across
of rare books. The superb mural statues, sati stones, antique the bay. Jet skis are available
in blue-and-white painted furniture and carvings from for rent, and visitors can also
ceramic tiles (azulejos) was ravaged Hindu temples, as take a ferry ride to Vasco
added to the entrance lobby in well as some Christian icons. da Gama harbour.
1935, and depicts scenes from
the epic Os Lusiadas (Lusiada,
meaning the “people of
Portugal”, is derived from
Lusitania, Portugal’s old name).
Written by the 16th-century
Portuguese poet, Luis Vaz de
Camões, this recounts the
history of the Portuguese
presence in Goa. The institute
used to have an art gallery with
works by late 19th- and early
20th-century European artists. A scene from Os Lusiadas, depicting Vasco da Gama’s arrival in Goa
Goan River Cruises
A delightful way to spend an evening in Goa is to take one of the many sunset cruises along the
Mandovi river; these are organized by the Goa Tourism Development Corporation, (0832) 243 8866,
and also by private operators. Most of the cruises begin from
the jetty at the foot of Mandovi bridge, every day between
6 and 7pm (tickets are available at the jetty or online at http://
bookings.goa-tourism.com/cruises1.aspx). Entertainment
is provided by Goan dancers and musicians. On full-moon
nights and on Wednesdays and Saturdays, an excellent
dinner is also provided on board. Some operators organize
specialized tours through the backwaters, a vibrant
mangrove habitat and home to crocodiles and migratory
birds. Focussing on culture and food, Pascoal Organic Spice
Village, (09923) 749287, takes visitors to the sylvan settings
of spice plantations, which attract flocks of beautiful birds. An evening cruise down the Mandovi river





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492  SOUTHWESTERN INDIA

Street-by-Street: Panaji Old Town

Tucked away between Ourem Creek and Altinho Hill in Panaji
are the old residential quarters of Fontainhas and São Tomé, built
on reclaimed land in the 19th century. Fontainhas was named
after the fountain of Phoenix, a spring that provided the quarter’s
only source of water, while São Tomé takes its name from the São
Tomé Church. This old-world precinct, characterized by a jumble
of painted, tile-roofed houses, has streets lined with taverns
offering authentic Goan cuisine and feni (cashew nut liqueur),
and bakeries serving bebinca, the delicious local cake.
Many of the residents still speak Portuguese.
A priest in the doorway of
Panjim Inn St Sebastian’s Chapel
Velha Goa
Galeria
FILIPE NERI XAVIER ROAD GOVERNADOR TEXEIRA DA



SILVA ROAD

RUA DE NATALE
RUA DE NATALE


31ST JANUARY ROAD
CORTE DE OITERO




Dr Arminio RUA DE OUREM
Ribeiro de
Santana
Mansion


. Fundação Oriente
Originally a family
home, it now houses a
Portuguese foundation
that promotes artistic,
cultural and scientific
work. Its library is open
to the public.





. St Sebastian’s Chapel . Rua de Natale
0 metres 30 The chapel, built in 1888, has This road snakes up Altinho
0 yards 30 a life-size crucifix that used Hill and has steps laid out to
to hang in the Palace of the help pedestrians negotiate
Inquisition in Old Goa. the gentle climb.
For hotels and restaurants in this region see p701 and pp715–16


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G OA  493


VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
Practical Information
Fontainhas and São Tomé.
St Sebastian’s Chapel: Open 7am
mass. São Tomé Church:
Open 7am mass. Fundação
Oriente Library: Tel (0832) 223
0728. Open Mon–Fri. Velha Goa
Galeria: Tel (0832) 242 6628.
Open Mon–Sat.


Ourem Creek
The picturesque Rua de Ourem faces Ourem Creek. Behind it, colourful
houses dot the slopes all the way up Altinho Hill.
Altinho Hill Key Venite Restaurant
This first-floor restaurant,
Suggested route
overlooking the street
below, has a wonderful
ambience and serves
excellent European and
Goan food.


RUA DE NATALE




CORTE DE OITERO 31ST JANUARY ROAD

GOMES PEREIRA ROAD



São Tomé, a tiny
church built in
LUIS DE MENEZES ROAD
1849, was once
the focus of a
SÃO TOMÉ STREET
busy square. The
nearby Mint marks
the Inquisition’s
MAHATMA GANDHI ROAD
execution site.







Ourem Creek
Streetscape
Patto Bridge Most houses are painted yellow, ochre, green
or indigo with a white trim – in keeping with
the old Portuguese building code.




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494  SOUTHWESTERN INDIA


the leisurely Mackie’s Saturday
Night Bazaar – a great
alternative to the Wednesday
flea market at nearby Anjuna.
Tito’s Bar, which has the most
famous dance floor on the
entire beach, is the hub of
Baga’s nightlife. Candolim
Beach, 2.5 km (2 miles) south of
Calangute, stretches all the way
to Fort Aguada. Popular with
large tour groups, the once-
peaceful waters now resound
with the whir of speedboats
Reredos behind the main altar, Reis Magos Church and jet skis. Saligao, 2 km
(1 mile) east of Calangute, has
2 Reis Magos packed with sunbathers, hawkers, the pretty Church of Mae de
masseurs, hair-braiders and ear- Deus, in Neo-Gothic style, as
North Goa district (Bardez taluka).
8 km (5 miles) NW of Panaji. @ cleaners. The entire stretch of well as a seminary that prepares
_ Feast of Three Kings (Jan). sand right up to the adjacent boys for theological studies at
Baga Beach is lined with resorts, Rachol (see p508).
The fort at Reis Magos was trinket stalls, bars and beach
built in 1551 by Don Alfonso shacks such as Reggie’s Bar
de Noronha, the fifth viceroy, and Souza Lobo, which serve 4 Anjuna
as a second line of excellent Goan North Goa district (Bardez taluka).
defence after the food. Atlantis Water 18 km (11 miles) NW of Panaji.
forts at Aguada and Sports offers a diverse @ ( Flea Market (Wed).
Cabo (the tip of Dona range of water sports
Paula). It once housed from October to May. Anjuna has now replaced
a prison, which was Rides on fishing boats Calangute as a haven for
moved to Mormugao are also available at backpackers. It is better known
in 1996. Adjacent to bargain prices. for its full-moon rave parties
the fort is the Reis Calangute’s church, and sprawling flea market than
Magos Church. Football game in St Alex, topped by a for its beach. The popular flea
Constructed in 1555, progress, Calangute large dome, is on the market, held every Wednesday,
this is one of Goa’s road to Mapusa. Its is crowded with hawkers from
earliest churches, and has Rococo-style white-and-gold all over India selling everything
the royal Portuguese coat interior has shell-shaped niches. from Bali nese batik, silver
of arms on its façade. jewellery and papier-mâché
 Atlantis Water Sports boxes, to Tibetan prayer
Environs Calangute. Tel (09767) 213311. wheels, Rajasthani mirrorwork
Fort Aguada, 4 km (2 miles) and Kerala woodcarvings.
west of Reis Magos, was built Environs Fluorescent rave gear and
in 1612 as a defence against Extending north of Calangute, trendy beachwear round off
the Marathas and the Dutch. Its Baga Beach is far less crowded, the selection, while added
church, dedicated to St Lawrence, although its expanse of soft, attractions are performing
the patron saint of sailors, was white sand has its share of monkeys and fortune-telling
built in 1630, while the huge guesthouses and bars. It hosts Nandi bulls.
lighthouse dates to 1864. Some
buildings within the fort once
housed the state prison. The local
beach, Sinquerim, is known
for its luxury resorts.

3 Calangute
North Goa district (Bardez taluka). 16 km
(10 miles) NW of Panaji. @ n Kingstork
Beach Resort, (0832) 227 5120.
The centre of the hippie
scene in the 1960s and 1970s,
Calangute is Goa’s most popular
beach. During the day, it is A woman selling sarongs at the Anjuna flea market
For hotels and restaurants in this region see p701 and pp715–16


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G OA  495


Beaches and Beach Life

Goa’s splendid beaches stretch over 106 km (66 miles), from Querim in the north to
Palolem in the south. Each beach has its own individual character, though in general,
South Goa’s beaches are far less developed than those in North Goa. The entire Goan
coast is a popular tourist destination. To cater to the growing number of visitors, many
beaches now have shacks serving beer, snacks and seafood, lively flea markets, and
vendors offering a variety of services from head massages to dolphin-watching trips.

Querim, close to
Terekhol, is a lovely,
unspoilt stretch of sand. NH66
Terekhol
Terekhol Fort
(see p497) Querim Pernem
(see p497) Chapora
Arambol
Mandrem (see p496) Vainguinim has facilities
Arambol, an Morjim (see p496) for sailing, wind-surfing,
idyllic, peaceful water-skiing, parasailing,
beach with fishing Vagator (see p496) canoeing and scuba
boats, has a Anjuna Mapusa diving, as well as motor
picturesque boats and jet skis for hire.
freshwater lagoon Baga
that is fed by hot Calangute NH66 Mandovi
springs (see p497). Candolim
Sinquerim NH4A Siridao, a
Panaji small, secluded
Baga, an extension of Miramar (see p491) beach a short
Calangute, Goa’s most Dona Paula drive from
developed beach, has (see p491) Panaji, is strewn
lots of activity, with with pretty
numerous bars, resorts Vasco da NH4A seashells.
and shacks, and some Gama Zuari
lively night spots. Dabolim Ponda
Bogmalo NH66
Loutolim
Sinquerim, extending
up to the ramparts of Majorda
(see p511)
Fort Aguada, has three Bogmalo, safe
luxury hotels situated for swimming, is an Curtorim
on its sands. A few ideal family beach Colva Margao
reliable operators with adequate Benaulim
offer a range of water facilities for water (see p511)
sports facilities as sports (see p511). Quepem
well as boat trips. Varca Sanguem
(see p511)
Cavelossim
(see p511)
Arabian
Sea Mobor (see p511)
NH66
Cabo da Rama
(see p511)
Agonda
(see p511) Mallikarjun
Colva has one of Goa’s longest Palolem’s crescent-
uninterrupted stretches of sand, shaped beach, the
backed by shady palms. It is the loveliest in South Goa,
most popular of South Goa’s offers dolphin-watching Palolem
beaches, and has a busy market trips and tree houses for 0 km 5
square and a number of bars rent. The sunset views here
and seafood cafés (see p511). are spectacular (see p511). 0 miles 5




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496  SOUTHWESTERN INDIA


take the holy oil from was returned to the Portuguese
St Jerome’s church back to in exchange for Bassein, near
the nearby Shanteri Temple. Mumbai. Its ramparts, now
desolate, offer sweeping views of
Environs the coast. Chapora village, below
Mayem Lake, 14 km (9 miles) the fort, has many pleasant cafés.
southeast of Mapusa, is an
ideal picnic spot, with boating Environs
facilities and a good resort. The many fishing villages along
the northern coastline can only
be reached by taking a ferry
6 Vagator across the Chapora river from
Siolim, 10 km (6 miles) from
North Goa district (Bardez taluka).
17 km (11 miles) N of Panaji. Chapora village. The area around
Façade of St Jerome’s Church (Our Lady of @ Chapora village. the village of Morjim, 5 km
Miracles), Mapusa (3 miles) north of Chapora
A beautiful bay sheltered by village, is ideal for bird-watching.
5 Mapusa rocky outcrops at both ends, Mandrem is another quiet village
Vagator consists of a number of with a beautiful location and
North Goa district (Bardez taluka).
13 km (8 miles) N of Panaji. small beaches fringed by shady glorious beach, 12 km (7 miles)
* 40,000. £ @ n GTDC Hotel, coconut palms. Rarely crowded, north of Chapora village.
(0832) 226 2794. ( Fri. _ Feast it is the perfect place to discover
of Our Lady of Miracles (Apr). Goa’s unspoilt beauty.
The southernmost cove of 7 Pernem
In Mapusa, the largest town in Ozran lies below a steep cliff, North Goa district (Pernem taluka).
northern Goa, the main point where a freshwater stream 29 km (18 miles) N of Panaji.
of interest is the colourful empties into a clear pool, ideal @ 4 every half hour from Siolim.
Friday market, with for swimming. Little
its tantalizing aromas Vagator, to the The headquarters of Goa’s
of dried fish, spices, north, is a secluded northern most taluka, or sub-
chillies, vinegar, local stretch of sand district, Pernem was occupied
toddy and the spicy popular with more by the Portuguese in the mid-
Goan sausages, discerning visitors. 18th century. It was one of
chouriça. The region’s Big Vagator Beach the last conquests they made
famous cashew nuts is dominated by the between 1764 and 1788 –
are also much in red laterite Chapora a period during which they
demand. Hawkers Fort situated on expanded their territory to
peddle a range of Brightly coloured top of a hill at its include Pernem, Bicholim and
beachwear, including fishing nets northern tip. Now Satari in the north, and Ponda
cheap T-shirts and in ruins, this fort was (see p506), Sanquem, Quepem
summer dresses, in the built by the Portuguese in 1717 and Canacona in the south.
covered colonnades in front on the remains of an older By this time, the fervour for
of the rows of shops. In the bastion erected by the Adil Shahi conversions that existed
lanes leading off from the sultans. Its name, Chapora, is during the period of the early
main market are stalls selling derived from “Shahpura”, or conquests had waned, and
handicrafts and souvenirs “Town of the Shah”, as the village these areas remained
from all over the country. was once known. In 1739, predominantly Hindu.
St Jerome’s Church, also Sambhaji, the son of the Maratha The brightly painted
known as the Church of Our chief Shivaji (see p475), occupied Bhagavati Temple, in the bazaar,
Lady of Miracles, was rebuilt the fort for a short time until it stands on a 500-year-old site,
twice, first in 1719 and again
in 1838, after it was destroyed
by fire. Its main altar, with the
image of Nossa Senhora dos
Milagres, has some grand
ornamental screens, salvaged
from a church in Old Goa.
Interestingly, both Hindus
and Catholics celebrate the
Feast of Our Lady (held 16
days after Easter) with equal
fervour. At the end of the
festival Hindu devotees,
accompanied by Catholics, Shack restaurant on Morjim Beach
For hotels and restaurants in this region see p701 and pp715–16


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Eyewitness Travel LAYERS PRINTED:
Catalogue template “UK” LAYER
(Source v2.6)
Date 12th July 2013
Size 125mm x 217mm

G OA  497


evenings with drum circles and
travellers practising tai chi
and capoeira. Unlike in central
Goa, the Hindu influence is
apparent here; the numerous
cafés and guest houses are
called Ganesha or Namaste Carnival king on a float
instead of Pete’s or Johnny’s.
At the northern end, a rocky Festivals of Goa
footpath leads to a second Jatra (Jan), Quepem.
A fisherman casting his net off beach, entirely surrounded A colourful festival (jatra)
Querim Beach by cliffs. This sandy cove has honouring local temple
a freshwater lagoon fed by deities is celebrated at the
although the present structure hot springs and lined with Shantadurga Temple (see
dates to the 18th century. sulphurous mud. A 5-km p506). Other such festivals
It is dedicated to the eight- (3-mile) long path, heading take place through the year
armed Bhagavati, an incarnation north, leads to Querim Beach at var ious temples in Ponda.
of Shiva’s consort Parvati. Its (pronounced “keri”) – a pristine
elaborate gateway is framed strip of white sand, backed Carnival (Feb), Panaji. Goa’s
by two life-size elephants. A by casuarina trees. grandest festival marks the
short distance from the bazaar beginning of Lent. “King
is the palatial Deshprabhu Momo”, who personifies fun
House, the 19th-century 9 Terekhol Fort and frolic, orders his subjects
mansion of the wealthy Hindu North Goa district (Pernem taluka). to forget their troubles, and
Deshprabhu family, who fought 42 km (26 miles) N of Panaji. @ leads a colourful parade
for Goa’s liberation in 1961. 4 every half hour from Querim. through the streets. Three
days and nights of non-
This spraw ling property can stop revelry follow.
only be viewed from the outside. Across the Terekhol river from
Querim is the little hamlet of
Terekhol, with Terekhol (Tiracol)
8 Arambol Fort situated on a plateau above
it. The early 18th-century fort
North Goa district (Pernem taluka). was captured by the Portuguese
50 km (31 miles) N of Panaji. @ in 1776 from the Bhonsles, a
4 every half hour from Siolim. Maratha clan. It was the scene
of an uprising in 1954, when a
Also known as Harmal, Arambol group of satyagrahis (freedom Masked dancers, Carnival
is the only fishing village in fighters) hoisted the Indian flag
North Goa that has some basic on its ramparts in an act of civil Shigmotsav (Shigmo)
facilities for visitors and is disobedience against colonial (Mar). This joyous Hindu spring
popular with the back packer rule. The fort’s high battlements festival is celebrated acoss the
crowd. Situated along one of face the sea, looking across the state. Festivities continue for
five days and include colourful
Goa’s less commercial beaches, waters to Fort Aguada, Arambol street floats (in the larger
it still retains all the charm of a and Chapora. The tiny chapel towns), local folk theatre,
traditional fishing village, except within the fort, with a statue of sword dances and the lively
for the occasional street vendor Christ in the courtyard, is usually spraying of coloured powder.
selling bright scarves and skirts. closed, but the atmospheric
There’s a sunset point on the Terekhol Fort Heritage Hotel All Saints Procession (Apr),
beach, which is lively in the offers some excellent views. Goa Velha, Pilar. Large crowds
of devotees carry statues of
26 saints in procession from
St Andrew’s Church, in this
small village near Pilar.

Feast of St Francis Xavier
(3 Dec), Old Goa. The feast of
Goa’s patron saint is held on
the anniversary of his death
(1552). Attended by Catholic
pilgrims from all over the
world, the feast is preceeded
by novenas (nine days
of prayer).
A holy cross on top of a knoll, Arambol Beach
Visitors relaxing on Candolim Beach, Goa



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