(DK Eyewitness) Travel Guide - India

WHERE T O ST A Y  699

ITANAGAR: Hotel Donyi Polo JAISALMER: Nachana Haveli  SAWAI MADHOPUR: Sher
Ashok  Heritage Bagh 
Comfort lodging Gandhi Chowk, 345001 Rural retreat
C-Sector, 791111 Tel (02992) 252 110 Sherpur-Khiljipur Village, 322001
Tel (0360) 221 2626 ∑ nachanahaveli.com Tel (011) 4617 2700
∑ theashokgroup.com This lovingly restored haveli with ∑ sujanluxury.com
In the heart of the capital, this heaps of character has a popular At this luxurious tented safari
comfortable hotel offers old- rooftop restaurant, Saffron. camp guests sleep in huge beds
fashioned but pleasing rooms and enjoy a nightly bonfire.
with views, a restaurant and a bar.
DK Choice SHEKAWATI: Mandawa
KAZIRANGA NATIONAL PARK: JODHPUR: Raas  Haveli 
Wild Grass Resort  Boutique Heritage
Rural retreat Tunwar Ji Ka Jhalara, Makrana Near Sonthaliya Gate
Bochagaon, 786009 Mohalla, 342001 Tel (01592) 223 742
Tel (03776) 262 085 Tel (0291) 263 6455 ∑ hotelheritagemandawa.com
∑ oldassam.com ∑ raasjodhpur.com There are incredible frescoes
Long-standing resort with guided Inspired by the landscape of inside this restored haveli, where
tours to the park and villages, a Jodhpur, this magnificent hotel comfortable rooms sit around
restaurant and cultural events. blends seamlessly with the red- a courtyard.
sandstone Mehrangarh Fort.
KOHIMA: Razhü Pru  Stylish rooms look out onto the UDAIPUR: Udaivilas 
Heritage pool or gardens. Luxury
Mission Compound, Kohima Vill Lake Pichola, 313001
Tel (0370) 229 0291 Tel (0294) 243 3300
An old Naga-style bungalow in KUMBHALGARH: ∑ oberoihotels.com
wood is now a hotel featuring The Aodhi  This elegant palatial hotel looking
handcrafted furniture and rooms Luxury over Lake Pichola and the city’s
with mountain views. Kelwara, 313325 palaces has a wildlife sanctuary.
Tel (02954) 242 341
SHILLONG: Hotel Pinewood  ∑ hrhhotels.com
Heritage This old, stone home, surrounded
Rita Rd, European Ward, 793001 by nature, sits below the Gujarat
Tel (0364) 222 3116 atmospheric fort. Horse safaris
∑ meghalayatourism.org and walks are available.
In a Raj-era, mock-Tudor DK Choice
bungalow set in well-maintained NAGAUR: Ranvas 
grounds, the elegant rooms Boutique AHMEDABAD: House of
come with fireplaces. There's also Nagaur Fort, 341001 Mangaldas Girdhardas 
a fine bar and restaurant. Tel (01582) 241 271/244 816 Heritage
∑ ranvasnagaur.com Opposite Sidi Sayid Mosque,
Stay inside Nagaur fort in Lal Darwaza, 38001
the converted havelis of the Tel (079) 2550 6946
Rajasthan Maharajahs' 16 wives. ∑ houseofmg.com
House of MG, as it is
BIKANER: Bhairon Vilas  PUSHKAR: Inn Seventh affectionately dubbed, is a
Boutique Heaven  stunning atmospheric property
Near Fort, 334001 Great value with sweeping staircases,
Tel (0151) 254 4751 Next to Mali ka Mandir, 305022 beautifully decorated halls
∑ hotelbhaironvilas.com Tel (0145) 510 5455 and luxurious rooms. There is a
Quirky rooms and a fantastic bar ∑ inn-seventh-heaven.com lovely shop and two gorgeous
combine with Rajasthani At this restored haveli there are restaurants. The heritage walks
memoribilia. Great rooftop views. themed rooms around a court- are recommended.
yard and a rooftop restaurant.
DEOGARH: Deogarh
Mahal  DIU: Radhika Beach Resort 
Heritage Family-friendly
Deogarh Village, 313331 Nagoa, near the beach, 362520
Tel (0) 99288 34777 Tel (02875) 252 555
∑ deogarhmahal.com ∑ radhikaresort.com
A palace with labyrinthine This beach resort with lovely
corridors, sumptuous rooms and spacious rooms, a large pool and
breathtaking views. good restaurant is ideal for families.
JAIPUR: Samode Haveli  KACHCCH: Shaam-e-Sarhad 
Luxury Eco-friendly
Ganga Pole, 302002 Hodka Village, 370510
Tel (0141) 263 2407 Tel (02832) 574 124
∑ samode.com ∑ hodka.in
Sophisticated decor, deluxe rooms At an eco resort run by a village
and suites, a stunning dining room co-operative, there are huts and
and lovely pool all feature at this Intimate dining at the well-reviewed House tents, plus a campfire, live music
hotel in former royal apartments. of Mangaldas Girdhardas, Ahmedabad and delicious food.
For more information on types of hotels see page 693
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700  TR A VELLERS ’ NEEDS

SASAN GIR: Gir Birding The Regale by Tunga 
Lodge  Luxury Maharashtra
Rural retreat Plot 31, Central Rd, MIDC, 400093
1.5 km north of Sasan, 362135 Tel (022) 6672 6672 AURANGABAD: Gurjas Hotel 
Tel (02877) 295 514 ∑ regale.tungahotels.com Great value
∑ girbirdinglodge.com Well-designed rooms with Railway Station Rd, New
Lions can often be heard at a modern amenities and courteous Osmanpura, 431005
distance at this comfortable staff appeal to both business and Tel (0) 99232 50033
retreat, set in a mango orchard. leisure travellers. Formerly the Oberoi Hotel, this
well-run lodge is Aurangabad's
VADODARA: WelcomHotel  Regency Hotel  best bargain.
Luxury Comfort lodging
RC Dutt Rd, Alkapuri, 390007 73 Nepean Sea Rd, 400006 AURANGABAD: Taj
Tel (0265) 233 0033 Tel (022) 6657 1234 Residency 
∑ itcwelcomgroup.in ∑ regencymumbai.com Luxury
Right in the main shopping hub This well-kept secret offers small 8-N - 12, CIDCO, Rauza Bagh, 431003
with a popular restaurant, rooms but flawless rooms in a quiet spot Tel (0240) 661 3737
here sit around a pool. at the base of posh Malabar Hill. ∑ tajhotels.com
This modern palace with domes,
Residency Hotel  huge rooms, gardens and a pool,
Comfort lodging makes a great base for the caves.
Mumbai Rustom Sidhwa Marg, Fort, 400001
Tel (022) 6667 0555 DK Choice
Bentley’s Hotel  ∑ residencyhotel.com
Great value This is one of the best deals GANPATIPULE: Atithi
Oliver St, Colaba, 400001 downtown, with clean rooms Parinay 
Tel (022) 2288 0442 and friendly staff. Rural retreat
∑ bentleyshotel.com Kolagewadi, Ratnagiri, 415617
The best rooms here are large Hotel Sea Princess  Tel (0) 90499 81309
and cool, with windows opening Comfort lodging ∑ atithiparinay.com
onto gulmohar trees. Juhu Beach, 400049 Tucked away in the coastal
Tel (022) 2646 9500 hinterland, this peaceful and
Sea Shore Hotel  ∑ seaprincess.com organic farm-homestay offers
Great value Long-established hotel with both an introduction to village life.
1/49, Kamal Mansion, Arthur Bunder renovated and old-world rooms Rooms vary from rustic cottages
Rd, Colaba, 400005 overlooking Juhu Beach. with traditional earthen floors
Tel (022) 2287 4238 to safari-style tents and a tree-
Simple, but cared-for-lodge offers The Oberoi  house. Trails lead to a nearby
Taj-like views at a fraction of Luxury creek, and quiet beaches are a
the price. The bathrooms are Nariman Point, 400021 short drive away. Guests stay a
shared, but are well maintained Tel (022) 6632 5757 minimum of two nights.
and clean. ∑ oberoihotels.com
Top-class restaurants, 24-hour
YWCA International Centre  spa and rooms with iPod docks KOLHAPUR: Opal 
Great value and glass-walled bathrooms are Great value
18 Madam Cama Rd, 400001 all on offer at this hotel. Old Pune-Bengaluru Rd, 416005
Tel (022) 2202 0598 Tel (0231) 253 6767
∑ ywcaic.info Suba Galaxy  ∑ hotelopal.co.in
Neat and pleasant ensuite Luxury Basic rooms and deluxe doubles
rooms in a sociable collegiate NS Phadke Rd, Andheri E, 400069 are offered behind an Art Deco
lodge. Breakfast and dinner Tel (022) 2682 1188 façade. Superb local dishes.
are included. ∑ hotelsubagalaxy.com
Popular with leisure and business
Astoria Hotel  travellers, this sleek business
Great value hotel close to airports offers small
Jamshedji Tata Rd, Churchgate but good-value rooms.
400020
Tel (022) 6654 1234
∑ hotelsubagalaxy.com DK Choice
Close to Churchgate Station, one Taj Mahal Palace 
of south Mumbai's best budget Luxury
options offers comfortable beds Apollo Bunder, 400001
and a great buffet breakfast. Tel (022) 6665 3366
∑ tajhotels.com
Orchid Hotel  An icon of Indian hospitality
Eco-friendly since 1903. The restored and
Nehru Rd, Vile Parle East, 400099 shining Palace Wing is Mumbai's
Tel (022) 26164000 ultimate luxury address, with
∑ orchidhotel.com elegant and tech-savvy rooms
Large rooms, attentive service and cavernous suites offering
and eco-friendly features are front-row views of the Gateway
offered at this hotel, which is very of India. Quaint treehouse at Atithi Parinay
handy for the domestic airport. in Ganpatipule
Key to Price Guide see page 694
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WHERE T O ST A Y  701

LONAVLA: The Machan 
Eco-friendly
Lonavala, 401401
Tel (0) 76666 22426
∑ themachan.com
Guests stay for a minimum of
two nights in secluded rustic
luxury in timber and glass
treehouses. Breezy balconies
overlook the forest.
MAHABALESHWAR:
Brightland 
Rural retreat
Kates Point Rd, 412806
Tel (02168) 260 700 Elegant bedroom interiors, Siolim House, Siolim
∑ brightlandholiday.com
This mountain-top resort CALANGUTE: Pousada pool, three great restaurants and
combines great views and an Tauma  many more facilities, which make
ayurvedic centre for a truly Boutique it one of the best resorts in Goa.
relaxed and comfortable stay. Porba Vaddo, 403516
Tel (0) 97658 04964
NAGPUR: Radisson Blu  ∑ pousadatauma.com DK Choice
Boutique Made with local laterite stone, SIOLIM: Siolim House 
93/7 Wardha Rd, 440015 this small luxury hotel has a good Heritage
Tel (0712) 666 5888 ayurvedic centre. Opp Vaddy Chapel, 403517
∑ radissonblu.com Tel (0832) 227 2138
There's spacious accommodation CHORLA GHATS: Wildernest  ∑ siolimhouse.com
and breakfast included at this Eco-friendly This 350-year-old Portuguese
efficient hotel near the airport. Sankhali, 416512 mansion once belonged to
Tel (0) 93411 12721 the governor of Macau.
PUNE: Sunderban  ∑ wildernest-goa.com Romantic rooms, an airy
Heritage Guests at this stunning eco-resort living room and a beautiful
19 Koregaon Park, 411001 can enjoy the infinty pool and pool make this the perfect
Tel (0) 94204 96605 nature walks. There's a two-night getaway. Popular beaches
∑ hotelsunderban.chobs.in minimum stay. and markets are just a short
Charming rooms combine drive away.
with antique leather lounges MAJORDA: Alila Diwa 
in the Art Deco wing. Italian Luxury
restaurant with fine dining. Adao Waddo, 403713
Tel (0832) 274 6800
WARDHA: Sevagram Ashram ∑ aliladiwagoa.com Karnataka
Yatri Niwas  This stunning resort features
Great value spacious rooms, a spa and an
Sevagram Ashram, 442102 infinity pool. DK Choice
Tel (07152) 284 753
∑ gandhiashramsevagram.org MANDREM: Beach Street  BANDIPUR: Dhole’s
This spartan but spotless ashram Beachside Den 
guesthouse with a bookshop Junas Vaddo, 403527 Eco-friendly
serves vegetarian meals. Tel (0) 85520 92235 Kaniyanapura, 571126
∑ beachstreet.in Tel (0) 94444 68376
Lovely rooms in a 1920s palace ∑ dholesden.com
as well as secluded beach huts Set in grassland on the edge
Goa with balconies. of Bandipur National Park, this
boutique safari lodge comes
BAGA: Cavala  PANAJI: Panjim Inn  with mountain views. Bright,
Beachside Heritage TV-free rooms, with showers
Saunta Vaddo, 403516 31 January Rd, 403001 open to the sky, are powered
Tel (0832) 227 7587 Tel (0832) 222 6523 by the wind and sun; veggies are
∑ cavala.com ∑ panjiminn.com picked from the organic garden.
This family-friendly resort with a Goa's first heritage hotel features Safaris are led by a naturalist.
pool and rustic Goan feel puts on four-poster beds and antiques.
themed music nights. The Verandah restaurant offers
delicious Goan food. BENGALURU: Shangri-La 
BARDEZ: Nilaya Hermitage  Luxury
Boutique SINQUERIM: Taj Holiday 56-6B, Palace Rd, Vasantnagar, 560052
60 Bhatti Arpora, 403515 Village  Tel (08045) 126 100
Tel (0832) 226 9793 Beachside ∑ shangri-la.com/bengaluru
∑ nilaya.com Dando, Candolim, 403515 This 19-storey hotel, with a
An epic hilltop property with Tel (0832) 664 5858 health club, gym, salon, spa
stylish rooms, Nilaya also has ∑ tajhotels.com and business centre, offers
a pool, a beautiful spa and a This beautifully laid out resort has 360⁰ views of the city and the
music room. Goan-style cottages, a massive historic Bengaluru Palace.
For more information on types of hotels see page 693
694-703_EW_India.indd 701 26/04/17 11:55 am

702  TR A VELLERS ’ NEEDS

CHAMARAJANAGAR: Serai Karpagam International 
Bandipur  Good value
Luxury 41 South Mada St, Mylapore,
Kaniyanapura Village, 571126 600004
Tel (08229) 236 075 Tel (044) 2495 9984
∑theserai.in This basic yet atmospheric lodge
Luxurious rooms and log huts has front rooms overlooking
with wildlife-themed decor sit a temple pond.
in peaceful grounds close to
Bandipur National Park. Oriental Inn 
Comfort lodging
GOKARNA: SwaSwara  71 Cathedral Rd, 600086
Heritage Tel (044) 2811 4941
Om Beach, Donibhail, 581326 ∑ orientalinn.in
Tel (08386) 257 132 Located in Chennai's business Impressive teak-pillared courtyard at
∑ swaswara.com and shopping hub are spacious Chettinadu Mansion, Chettinad
Yoga, ayurveda, meditation and studios with great access to
healthy cuisine are all offered in many restaurants. KANYAKUMARI: Hotel Tamil
a peaceful beachside setting. Nadu 
Raintree  Great value
HAMPI: Uramma Heritage Eco-friendly Beach Rd, 629702
Homes  636 Anna Salai, Teynampet, Tel (04652) 246 257
Heritage 600035 ∑ ttdconline.com
Talawar Katt, 583227 Tel (044) 4393 9999 This quiet government place
Tel (08533) 267 792 ∑ raintreehotels.com features basic rooms, sea-facing
∑ urammaheritagehome.com Understated rooms, a choice of terraces and gardens.
These simple but comfortable restaurants and a rooftop pool
rooms make a great base for are all on offer at this centrally KODAIKANAL: Carlton
exploring Hampi heritage site. located hotel. Hotel 
Comfort lodging
MYSURU: Green Hotel  Savera Hotel  Boat Club Rd, 624101
Heritage Great value Tel (04542) 248 555
2270 Vinoba Rd, 570012 146 Dr Radhakrishnan Rd, 600004 ∑ carlton-kodaikanal.com
Tel (0821) 242 2668 Tel (044) 4554 8404 At this spacious hotel with stylish
∑ greenhotelindia.com ∑ hotelsavera.com rooms private terraces overlook
At this beautiful palace with This good-value central hotel Kodai Lake.
a sustainable tourism ethos, features smart rooms, a pool and
there are croquet lawns and a rooftop restaurant. MADURAI: Heritage Madurai 
a good restaurant. Luxury
Vivanta by Taj – 11 Melakkal Main Rd,
NAGARHOLE NP: Kabini River Connemara  Kochadai, 625016
Lodge  Heritage Tel (0452) 238 5455
Rural retreat Binny Rd, 600002 ∑ heritagemadurai.com
Karapur Tel (044) 6600 0000 Huge villas come with plunge
Tel (080) 4055 4055 ∑ tajhotels.com pools and a private chef. There's
∑ junglelodges.com Elegant Art Deco touches and also a luxurious spa.
An iconic resort set in a former supremely comfortable rooms
royal hunting lodge. Daily tiger combine at this luxurious MAHABALIPURAM: Sri Harul
safaris are organized. chain hotel. Guest House 
Great value
181 Bajanai Koil St, 603104
Tel (0) 93846 20173
Chennai Tamil Nadu This simple guesthouse is right
on the beach and has a relaxed
rooftop café.
DK Choice DK Choice
MUDUMALAI: Jungle Retreat 
Footprint B&B  CHETTINAD: Chettinadu Rural retreat
Boutique Mansion  Bokkapuram, 643223
16 Sriram Nagar South St, Heritage Tel (0423) 252 6469
off TTK Rd, Alwarpet, 600018 Kanadukathan ∑ jungleretreat.com
Tel (0) 98400 37383 Tel (04565) 273 080 Accommodation options here
∑ footprint.in ∑ chettinadumansion.com include stone cottages, romantic
This peaceful and intimate city Dating back to 1902, this treehouses or bamboo huts.
retreat has stylish and unfussy traditional Chettiar house
rooms, decorated with handmade sprawls across half a block, OOTY: YWCA Anandagiri 
paper from Auroville. Indian its soaring ballroom giving Heritage
and continental breakfasts way to a succession of teak- Ettines Rd, 643001
are prepared to order. The pillared courtyards. There are Tel (0423) 244 2218
owner, Rucha, is a wealth of huge rooms on the second ∑ ywcaagooty.com
information on the best places floor that come with private High-ceilinged cottages with
to see, eat and shop in Chennai. rooftop balconies. fireplaces are set in pine-shaded
gardens and offer fantastic value.
Key to Price Guide see page 694
694-703_EW_India.indd 702 26/04/17 11:55 am

WHERE T O ST A Y  703

PUDUCHERRY: Hotel de features airy, spotless rooms, a
l’Orient  terrace and orchid-filled gardens. Andhra Pradesh and
Heritage Telangana
17 rue Romain Rolland, 605001 KOVALAM: Niraamaya 
Tel (0413) 234 3067 Luxury
∑ neemranahotels.com Pulinkudi, Kovalam, 695521 HYDERABAD: Taj Mahal 
Guests stay in antiques-furnished Tel (0471) 226 7333 Great value
rooms in an 18th-century school- ∑ niraamaya.in 4-1-999 Abid Rd, 500001
house with fine Creole food. Ancient Keralite cottages are Tel (040) 2475 8250
set on a clifftop overlooking ∑ hoteltajmahalindia.com
TIRUCHIRAPPALLI: Grand beaches. This is a good place A characterful budget hotel
Gardenia  for ayurveda. that is palatial outside, and big
Comfort lodging and bright within.
22–25 Mannarpuram Jn, 620020 KOZHIKODE: Alakapuri Hotel 
Tel (0431) 404 5000 Great value DK Choice
∑ grandgardenia.com MM Ali Rd, 673004
This well-equipped hotel offers Tel (0495) 272 3451 HYDERABAD: Taj Falaknuma
big rooms with lovely wide beds Roomy cottages are set around a Palace 
and a rooftop restaurant. broad, grassy courtyard. There's Heritage
a dining hall plus a beer-and- Engine Bowli, Falaknuma,
wine parlour. 500054
Tel 040 6629 8585
Andaman Islands MUNNAR: Tea Sanctuary  ∑ tajhotels.com
Rural retreat A luxurious palace hotel
HAVELOCK: Barefoot at Kanan Devan Hills Plantation set (610 m) 2,000 ft above
Havelock  Tel (04865) 230141 Hyderabad. Suites are
Eco-friendly ∑ theteasanctuary. com decked out with antiques,
Beach No. 7, SH 4, 744211 Quaint cottages, many with and cavernous chambers
Tel (080) 4001 2200 fireplaces, are dotted around feature dining tables that
∑ barefoot-andaman.com a tea plantation. seem to stretch for miles.
Thatched Nicobari-style villas, and Faultless service, a health
a rustic restaurant, are located just THEKKADY: Coffee Inn  spa and superb restaurants
a short stroll away from the beach. Good value make staying here a
Lake Rd, Kumily, 685509 memorable experience.
PORT BLAIR: Fortune Resort Tel (04869) 222 763
Bay Island  ∑ coffeeinnthekkady.com
Comfort lodging Guests can choose between VIJAYAWADA: Mamata 
Marine Hill, 744101 bamboo huts in a lush garden Good value
Tel (03192) 234 101 or swish rooms. Great location. Eluru Rd, 520002
∑ fortunehotels.in Tel (0866) 257 1251
Built with local padoauk wood, VARKALA: Mektoub  ∑ mamatahotel.com
the rooms here are imaginatively Boutique A standard budget hotel with
decorated. There's also the open- Odayam Beach, 695311 well-kept rooms that are great for
deck Nico Bar. Tel (0) 94479 71239 value, with friendly room service
This peaceful rustic-mystic and staff.
hideaway is just a short stroll
to uncrowded sands. VISAKHAPATNAM:
Kerala Dolphin 
WAYANAD: Aranyakam  Comfort lodging
Rural retreat Dabagardens, 530020
DK Choice Valathur, Meppadi– Tel (0891) 662 2444
∑ dolphinhotelsvizag.com
Vaduvanchal Rd, 673577
ALAPPUZHA: Purity  Tel (04936) 280 261 This large hotel is well-equipped
Luxury ∑ aranyakam.com with comfortable rooms, having
Muhamma, 688525 A coffee plantation B&B with modern amenities, and has
Tel (0484) 221 6666 cool rooms in the bungalow or a good restaurants. The staff
∑ malabarescapes.com treehouse overlooking ravines. is friendly.
This Italianate villa is the ultimate
in discreet backwaters luxury.
There are huge rooms with
sunken baths and antique beds,
plus bicycles and canoes for
exploring the backwaters.
FORT COCHIN: Delight
Homestay 
Heritage
Ridsdale Rd, 682001
Tel (0484) 221 7658
∑ delightfulhomestay.com
Located in the heritage area of
Fort Cochin, this grand old house Spectacular interiors of the Taj Falaknuma Palace, Hyderabad
For more information on types of hotels see page 693
694-703_EW_India.indd 703 26/05/17 11:45 am

704  TR A VELLERS ’ NEEDS

WHERE TO EAT AND DRINK

Indian cuisine is as rich in variety as the considerable change, triggered by rapidly
country itself. The delicate flavours of the changing lifestyles and the introduction
classic cuisines that developed in the imperial of Western fast-food chains. Though most
courts of Delhi, Kashmir, Hyderabad and Indians relish food cooked at home, eating
Lucknow are complemented by a vast range out is becoming increasingly popular in the
of regional specialities, made with a variety larger cities. Restaurants now offer anything
of exotic ingredients. From the arid desert from pizzas and burgers to sophisticated
of Rajasthan come robust chilli-hot curries, multi-course meals, along with local and
whereas fish dominates the cuisine imported wines. The restaurants listed
of the lush coastal areas of West Bengal, on pages 706–719 have been selected
Goa and, to some extent, Kerala. Eating for their quality, variety, service and
habits in urban India are undergoing price range.
Etiquette
Indians are overwhelmingly
hospitable, and many hotels
and restaurants strive to follow
a similar ethos. While it is
customary for Indians to eat
with their fingers, eateries do
provide cutlery. There is usually
a basin for washing hands
before and after a meal, and
restaurants often provide finger
bowls with warm water and
lemon for this purpose. Eating
beef is taboo among Hindus, as Visitors savour a meal at one of Mumbai’s many restaurants
is consuming pork for Muslims.
and the more expensive ones imported ingredients, are
boast decor and service that enthusiastically patronized
Restaurants
are of international standards. by discerning gourmands.
Changing lifestyles are mostly Traditional eating places, Regional Indian specialities,
responsible for the proliferation especially those that cater too, are in demand. Restaurants
of eating places, in smaller to a local clientele, are large, specializing in barbecued
towns as well as large cities. noisy halls, often with special tandoori kebabs and breads,
These range from luxurious “family rooms”. Simple and as well as cuisine from Goa,
gourmet restaurants to small wholesome, mainly vegetarian, Kerala, Kashmir, Lucknow,
cafés and roadside stalls, meals, are served here. Hyderabad, West Bengal and
offering an eclectic mix of International chains, such Rajasthan, now offer a wide
food, from Indian to Italian as Domino’s and McDonald’s, range of dishes derived from
to Japanese. Most urban have outlets in most big towns. traditional family recipes.
restaurants are air conditioned, Special menus have been Restaurants offering fusion
introduced to suit local tastes. food have begun to attract
Most restaurants open by diners in search of unusual
about 11am and close by 11pm. tastes and flavours. Here,
In larger cities, it is best to book inspired chefs experiment with
a table in advance for weekends recipes and ingredients from
and holidays, especially at the India and abroad, to create
more popular restaurants. exciting new menus.

Speciality Restaurants Coffee Shops
The growing appreciation for Luxury hotels have 24-hour
international cuisine has led coffee shops, where it is
to a rise in upmarket speciality possible to grab a late dinner
restaurants in most big cities. or early breakfast. Many local
Authentic Thai, Chinese, Mexican, cafés and restaurants serving
A cook deftly prepares a paper-thin, Japanese and Italian dishes, beverages and light snacks also
plate-sized rumali roti prepared by expert chefs using keep flexible hours. Small bistro-




704-705_EW_India.indd 704 26/04/17 11:55 am

WHERE T O EA T AND DRINK  705


Food and Beverage Tax (though
the amount varies), which can
escalate costs considerably.
Check your bill before paying.
Even though a service charge
is usually included, waiters do
expect to be tipped – 10 per
cent of the bill is acceptable.
Roadside eateries and street
vendors are extremely cheap
and don’t expect tip.
Food stalls lining Mall Road, Mussoorie
Paying
type establishments now appear displayed signs “Cooked in pure
in many shopping malls and at ghee” or “Cooked in ghee made Credit cards and debit cards are
tourist sites. These are perfect from cow’s milk”. accepted in most restaurants
places to relax over sandwiches and bars. However, always keep
and a cup of tea. some Indian rupees on hand
Alcohol to pay for meals at eateries in
The serving of alcohol is small towns or at roadside stalls
Roadside and Market restricted, and some states, such and cafés.
Food Stalls
as Gujarat, Bihar and Kerala are
For a glimpse of the original officially “dry”. Liquor is sold
Indian fast-food industry, a through government-approved Recommended
Restaurants
journey through the country’s shops and licensed restaurants.
roadside and market food stalls Prices vary across the country The restaurants on the following
is ideal. Improvised stalls or because of the difference in taxes pages have been carefully
carts, equipped with stoves and between states. Foreign wines selected to provide a variety
other cooking appliances, dish are available at most liquor of cuisine options from across
out tasty meals with speed and shops, pubs and restaurants, the sub-continent. You’ll find
efficiency. The choice ranges where you will also find Indian everything from regional
from vegetarian snacks, such as Made Foreign Liquor (IMFL), such specialities to street-food staples
spicy samosas, dosas and idlis, to as beer, whisky and vodka. The and classic tandoori restaurants
tandoori chicken, kebabs, “fish quality of Indian wines and to the less familiar South Indian
fry” and Indian-style Chinese champagne is improving, and cuisine. Quality international
chow mein. Indian sweets, fruit, some brands are even exported. establishments have been
ice cream and a variety of drinks Carrying alcohol for consumption highlighted, as well as restaurants
are also available. Unpretentious in a restaurant is not permitted, that have adopted neighbouring
eateries also serve good food. nor is drinking in public places. cuisines such as Tibetan or
These include North Indian National holidays and notified Chinese. The DK Choice
dhabas (which serve both non- election days are “dry days”, restaurants are extra special.
vegetarian and vegetarian food), when alcohol is unavailable. These are the truly exceptional
Goan beach shacks (which estab lish ments that boast a
specialize in fish curries with rice) Prices and Tipping noteworthy menu, superb
and South Indian Udipi cuisine, presentation, service or
restaurants (which serve only Prices are fixed everywhere, be location, or just offer something
vegetarian meals). For health it in a luxury hotel or at a market unique that simply has to
precautions, see pp740–43. stall. Luxury hotels also levy a be experienced.
Vegetarian Food
India’s excellent vegetarian
food emanates from the
country’s largely vegetarian
population. A simple, but
delectable, meal of fresh
seasonal vegetables, dal (lentil
curry) and a wide choice of
rotis and rice preparations
can be enjoyed anywhere.
Often these are served all
together on a thali (platter)
and are great value. The food’s
quality is endorsed by the Vibrant interiors of Indian Accent, New Delhi




704-705_EW_India.indd 705 26/04/17 11:55 am

706  TR A VELLERS ’ NEEDS

Where to Eat and Drink

Oh! Calcutta  Price Guide
Delhi Bengali Prices are based on a meal for
Ground Floor, E Block, Nehru one, including tax and service, but
Karim's  Place 110019 not alcohol.
Mughlai Tel (011) 3310 6050  under INR500
16 Jama Masjid, 110006 Authentic Bengali food served in  INR500–1,000
Tel (011) 2326 4981 an elegant setting by a friendly,  over INR1,000
Celebrating it's 100th year in helpful staff. Try the Daab Chingri
2013, Karim's is an institution in (prawns cooked in coconut). Bukhara 
Old Delhi, with tasty kebabs and North Indian
an unmatched tandoori The Potbelly Rooftop Café  ITC Maurya, Chanakyapuri, 110021
leg of lamb. Bihari Tel (011) 3310 6385
116-C, 4th Floor, Shahpur Jat, 110049 Northwestern frontier cooking
Saravana Bhavan  Tel (011) 4161 2048 right out of the tandoor oven in
South Indian vegetarian Authentic Bihari cuisine served in the open kitchen. Rich flavours.
46 Janpath, 110001 a rooftop restaurant with quirky
Tel (011) 2331 7755 interiors, in the urban Shahpur Jat Diva 
Hugely popular diner with great landscape. Delicious pakora baskets Italian
thalis and dosa. The mini-tiffin and excellent khada masala meat. M-8A, M Block Market, GK 2, 110048
with a taste of everything is Tel (011) 2921 5673
delicious. Also in P block CP. SodaBottleOpenerWala  Ritu Dalmia has a love affair with
Parsi/Iranian Italian food. Try the beaten chicken
Triveni Tea Terrace  73, Khan Market, 110003 with butter balsamic sauce.
North Indian Tel (0) 98108 77701
205 Tansen Marg, near Connaught This vibrant Parsi restaurant Dum Pukht 
Place, 110001 serves classics such as berry North Indian
Tel (0) 99715 66904 pulao, Raspberry Soda, and Mawa ITC Maurya, Chanakyapuri, 110021
Peaceful atmosphere and Cake, with a contemporary twist. Tel (011) 3310 6449
delicious palak paneer, kebabs Stunning restaurant voted one
and paranthas. The building has Yum Yum Cha  of the best in the world by
an art gallery and amphitheatre. Pan Asian Condé Nast. Delicious biryani,
2nd Floor, Select Citywalk Mall, shahi nihari (slow-cooked lamb)
Baci  Saket, 110017 and kheer (rice dessert).
Italian Tel (0) 98100 02994
23 Sunder Nagar Market, 110003 A charming eatery for Pan-Asian, FIO Cookhouse & Bar 
Tel (011) 4150 7445 café-style food, from delicious hot Fusion
Popular café-style Italian eatery pots and wok servings, to great Epicuria Mall, Nehru Place, 110019
offering all the usual pasta sushi rolls and sticky rice creations. Tel (011) 3310 7873
favourites and dishes such as This stylish place serves mainly
pan-seared pork or grilled salmon. Amour  European food. Try the herb-
Mediterranean crusted Australian lamb chops,
The Big Chill  30 Hauz Khas Village, 110016 or the olive-crusted seabass.
Italian Tel (0) 92121 26687
68-A, Khan Market, 110003 Terrace for open-air dining plus DK Choice
Tel (011) 4175 7588 stylish indoor restaurant. Serves
With its vibrant ambience and Italian and Mediterranean fare. Indian Accent 
delicious desserts, this charming Modern Indian
café, located in the heart of Khan The Manor, 77 Friends
Market, is always jam-packed. Colony West, 110065
Tel (011) 4323 5151
Chor Bizarre  Giving a new spin to Indian
Kashmiri classics, celebrity chef Manish
Hotel Broadway, 4/15A Asaf Mehrotra changes his menu
Ali Rd, 110002 seasonally. Sample the masala
Tel (011) 4366 3600 wild mushrooms paper dosa,
Atmospheric decor, tuna bhel ceviche or tamarind-
complete with a vintage car. glazed tandoori pork ribs. For
Wonderful Wazwan food to be dessert, go for the dark and
had; try the gushtaba (meat white chocolate kulfi lolipops.
balls cooked in yoghurt).
Coast Café  Kainoosh 
Coastal Modern Indian
H-2. Hauz Khaz Village, 110016 122-124 DLF Promenade Mall,
Tel (011) 3310 5045 Vasant Kunj, 110070
This eatery serves delicious curries Tel (0) 95607 15544
from the coasts of India. Classy Thalis with nutmeg-infused lamb
interiors with a lovely ambience. kofti or cardamom-and-saffron
The cocktails are amazing – the The beautiful interior and intimate setting chicken. Atmospheric Keya bar
POM Martini is a must-try. at Chor Bizarre next door.

706-719_EW_India.indd 706 26/04/17 11:55 am

WHERE T O EA T AND DRINK  707

Olive Bar & Kitchen  CHANDIGARH: Bombay
Mediterranean Chopstick 
One Style Mile, Haveli 6, Chinese
Mehrauli, 110016 Sector 10, 160011
Tel (011) 2957 4444 Tel (0172) 463 0666
Stylish restaurant serving up Thai as well as Chinese favourites.
grilled basa (fish), foie gras and There is also a pleasant outdoor
blue cheese gnochi. Great Sunday seating area.
brunch and amazing views.
CHANDIGARH: Elevens  
Spice Route  North Indian
South East Asian Kaptains Retreat, Sector 35-B, 160035
The Imperial, Janpath, 110001 Tel (0172) 500 5599
Tel (011) 4111 6605 Enjoy malai kofta and chicken
Stunning decor inspired by a dishes while surrounded by
South Indian temple. The food cricket memorabilia.
comes by way of Thailand,
Vietnam and Sri Lanka. CHANDIGARH: Pashtun  Dining area of the highly acclaimed
North Indian Wasabi, Delhi
Wasabi  SCO 333–334, Sector 35–B, 160036
Japanese Tel (0172) 260 7728 MANALI: Chopsticks 
The Taj Mahal Hotel, 1 Man Singh Rd, This place offers up excellent Chinese
110001 North Indian vegetarian and The Mall, 175131
Tel (011) 6651 3585 meat classics. Tel (01902) 252 639
Live cooking with a teppanyaki Well-loved Chinese restaurant
and grill counter, a sushi bar that that also serves Tibetan momos
serves fish flown in daily from and gyakok (hot pot).
Tokyo, and a stylish sake bar. Himachal Pradesh
MANALI: Johnson's Café 
CHAIL: Palace Hotel's Multi-cuisine
Restaurant  Johnson's Hotel, Circuit House Rd
Haryana and Punjab Himachali Tel (01902) 253 764
Palace Hotel, 173217 Great trout specialties as well as
AMRITSAR: Crystal  Tel (01792) 248 141 good pastas are on offer here.
North Indian Delicious local specialities. Lovely gardens.
Crystal Chowk, Queen's Rd, 143001 Yoghurt is used liberally in
Tel (0183) 222 5555 many preparations. DK Choice
Top-notch North Indian food –
from murgh makhani (butter CHAMBA: Iravati Hotel  MANALI: La Plage 
chicken) to palak paneer. Busy Himachali Fusion
on weekends. Iravati Hotel, 176310 Behind Club House, Old Manali
Tel (01899) 222 671 Tel (0) 98053 40977
AMRITSAR: Punjabi Rasoi  Try the achari chicken or the Effortlessly chic restaurant amid
North Indian guchi madara (spicy mushroom apple orchards. The food is as
Near Jallianwala Bagh, and peas). Great mountain views. good as the stunning views.
Shastri Market, 143001 Sesame chicken with wasabi
Tel (0) 98881 28004 DHARAMSALA: Lung Ta  mashed potatoes, trout with
Close to the Golden Temple Japanese almonds and the chocolate
and Jallianwala Bagh, this great Jogibara Rd, Mcleodganj, 176219 thali are must-haves.
little place offers good Punjabi Closed Sun
and South Indian dishes. Japanese diner with sushi on
Tuesdays and Fridays; other SHIMLA: Ashiana 
CHANDIGARH: Mehfil  specials during the rest of the week. Multi-cuisine
Multi-cuisine All profits go to charity. The Ridge, 171001
SCO 183–185, Sector 17–C, 160017 Great location and a circular
Tel (0172) 270 3539 DHARAMSALA: Nick's design to catch the views.
One of the oldest restaurants Italian Kitchen  Good food and a bar.
in town serving up tastes Multi-cuisine
from around the world. Their Kunga Guesthouse, Bhagsu Rd, 176219 SHIMLA: Baljees 
Mughlai preparations are not Tel (01892) 221 180 Multi-cuisine
to be missed. A Tibetan-run eatery with a The Mall, opp Town Hall, 171003
good range of pastas, and Tel (0177) 281 4054
CHANDIGARH: Barbeque Tibetan staples such as momos A hardy perennial that serves all
Nation  and thukpa. the familiar South Indian and
International North Indian classics.
SCO 39, Madhya Marg, DHARAMSALA: Seven Hills
Sector 26, 160019 of Dokebi  SHIMLA: Cecil 
Tel (0172) 606 0000 Korean Multi-cuisine
Popular chain restaurant, where Jogibara Rd, Mcleodganj, 176219 Chaura Maidan, 171004
you can cook your own dinner. Closed Mon Tel (0177) 280 4848
Each table has its own BBQ, so Exceptional Korean food in a Wood-panelled dining room in
guests choose their ingredients beautiful and cosy restaurant, the 100-year-old Oberoi Cecil
and get going. with low seating upstairs. hotel. Expect top-notch food.
For more information on types of restaurants see page 705
706-719_EW_India.indd 707 26/04/17 11:55 am

708  TR A VELLERS ’ NEEDS

LEH: Omasila Restaurant  AGRA: Esphahan 
Ladakh, Jammu Multi-cuisine Mughlai
& Kashmir Hotel Omasila, Changspa, 194101 Amar Vilas, Taj East Gate, 282001
Tel (01982) 252 119 Tel (0562) 223 1515
ALCHI: Zimskhang Well-established restaurant Stunning restaurant at the
Restaurant  offering regional and Western Oberoi with exquisite Mughlai
Multi-cuisine fare, served indoors or in the food. Try the thali.
On the lane to the monastery pleasant courtyard.
Tel (01982) 227 086 AGRA: Peshawri 
The best choice in town with an LEH: Open Hand Espresso North Indian
extensive and reliable menu and Bar & Bistro  ITC Mughal, 282001
a pleasant tree-shaded courtyard. International Tel (0562) 402 1700
Off Old Fort Rd, 194101 Delicious kebabs and a
JAMMU: The Terrace – Sky Tel (0) 98719 09777 Closed Nov– renowned Dal Bukhara at
Lounge Restaurant  Mar this village-style restaurant.
Multi-cuisine Fully organic, healthy meals,
KC Residency, Residency Rd, 180001 great cakes and coffee. There ALLAHABAD: El Chico 
Tel (0191) 252 0770 is a fairtrade shop and adjoining Multi-cuisine
The fabulous open-air terrace vegetable gardens. 24 MG Road, Civil Lines, 211001
eatery provides panoramic views. Tel (0532) 242 7696
Revolving restaurant on site too. LEH: Penguin Garden Restaurant Deservedly popular restaurant
& German Bakery  serving good Indian and Western
LEH: Amdo Cafeteria  International food. Also has a bakery.
Tibetan and Chinese Fort Rd, 194101
Main Market, 194101 Tel (01982) 251 523 Closed Oct– FATEHPUR SIKRI: Navratan
Tel (01982) 253 114 May Restaurant 
Rooftop eatery with views of A leafy courtyard restaurant that Multi-cuisine
the palace and fort. Delicious has a German bakery to boot. Gulistan Tourist Complex, 283110
noodles, spring rolls and more. The laid-back vibe and constant Tel (0561) 328 2490
background music makes it the Great pit-stop while sightseeing,
LEH: Mentokling perfect spot in which to relax. with good views and great Indian
Garden Restaurant  and Western food.
Multi-cuisine SRINAGAR: Latitude 
Zansti, 194101 Multi-cuisine HARIDWAR: Fun and Food 
Tel (01982) 252 992 Closed Nov–Feb Vivanta by Taj – Dal View, 191121 North Indian
This pretty garden restaurant has Tel (0194) 246 1111 Rani Pur More, 249401
a mellow vibe about it and is This restaurant offers stunning Tel (0) 78300 00953
filled with apple trees. views of the Dal Lake, coupled North and South Indian dishes
with a modernist interior. Taj- served out in the garden area.
LEH: Summer quality dining is a guarantee. There is a play area for children too.
Harvest Restaurant 
Multi-cuisine LUCKNOW: Tunde Ke Kebab 
Fort Rd, 194101 North Indian
Tel (01982) 252 226 Closed Nov–Mar Uttar Pradesh and Aminabad Chowk, 226018
Modest eatery with mainly Uttarakhand Tel (0) 93359 11858
Tibetan dishes and a sprinkling A must-visit restaurant with a
of Western fare. AGRA: Dasaprakash  great reputation for melt-in-the
South Indian vegetarian mouth minced meat kebabs.
LEH: Chopsticks Noodle Bar  9 Bansal Nagar,
Asian & Ladakhi Fathehabad Rd, 282002 LUCKNOW: Vvanjan 
Raku Complex, Fort Rd, 194101 Tel (0562) 246 3535 North Indian vegetarian
Tel (0) 99069 70496 Tasty dosas and a generous thali Vinay Palace, 10 Ashok Marg, 226001
Trendy spot in a central but quiet are on offer at this establishment. Tel (0522) 228 8220
location serving up Asian and Their Mysore masala dosa is a This restaurant serves up superb
local dishes. speciality that is not to be missed. vegetarian fare. Try the jeera aloo
and palak paneer.
LUCKNOW: Falaknuma 
North Indian
Clarks Avadh, 8 MG Rd, 226001
Tel (0522) 261 6509
Rooftop restaurant featuring
Avadhi food – traditional Dum
Pukht cuisine. Live music adds.
LUCKNOW: Oudhyana 
North Indian
Vipin Khand, Gomti Nagar, 226010
Tel (0522) 671 1000
Elegant dining room in the Taj
specializing in marinated, slow-
cooked Avadhi cuisine; try
Modern dining area at Latitude in Srinagar the nihari ghost (lamb).
Key to Price Guide see page 706

706-719_EW_India.indd 708 26/04/17 11:55 am

WHERE T O EA T AND DRINK  709

MATHURA: Best Western
Radha Ashok 
Multi-cuisine
Best Western Radha Ashok, Masani
Bypass Rd, 281001
Tel (0565) 329 8427
Decent multi-cuisine food as well
as typical North Indian fare in a
relaxed garden setting.
MUSSOORIE: Whispering
Windows 
North Indian
Library Bazaar, The Mall, 248179
Tel (0135) 263 2611
Good views of the Mall from this
popular eatery. Go for the butter
chicken and fluffy naan.
Entrance to the popular Chotiwala restaurant in Rishikesh
RISHIKESH: Chotiwala 
North Indian vegetarian VARANASI: Raga  PATNA: Samarat 
Swarg Ashram, across Korean Multi-cuisine
Shivanand Jhula, 249201 Marnikarnika Ghat Hotel Chanakya, 800001
Tel (0135) 243 2970 Tel (0542) 240 2945 Tel (0612) 222 3141
A Rishikesh institution that Follow the hand-painted signs Freshly prepared Indian, Chinese
is extremely popular and through the back streets to find and Western dishes served in a
atmospheric. Try the aloo poori. this excellent Korean restaurant. restful dining room. This was
Patna's first elite restaurant, and
it remains a popular stalwart.
DK Choice
RISHIKESH: Ramana's Bihar and Jharkhand PATNA: Silk Route 
Garden  Chinese
Multi-cuisine vegetarian BODH GAYA: Café Om  Hotel The Panache, South Gandhi
Nr Tapovan Resort, 249192 International Maidan, Golambar, Patna
Tel (0) 70607 53250 Closed mon­ Near Bank of India, 824231 Tel (0612) 222 1166
soon months Casual eatery that offers a range Though known primarily
Ramana's Garden restaurant of Western, Indian, Japanese for its Oriental cuisine, this
was set up to give the children and Tibetan fare. Tourists and establishment also offers
from Ramana's Orphanage pilgrims – all are welcome. delicious Indian and Continental
a vocational education, and preparations as well.
they are involved in all aspects, BODH GAYA: Lotus
including the baking and Restaurant  RAJGIR: Lotus Restaurant 
tending the garden. Organic International Japanese
salad from the garden, Tibetan Nr Birla Dharamshala, 824231 Indo Hokke Hotel, 803116
momos, cannelloni and amazing There's a well-prepared, tasty and Tel (06119) 255 245
cakes are to be sampled. varied menu at this simple, reliable Authentic Japanese cuisine is the
and safe budget establishment. hallmark here – the chefs are all
trained in Japan. The ambience
RISHIKESH: Glasshouse on PATNA: Rajasthan Restaurant  underlined by green mats, teak
the Ganges  North Indian Vegetarian furniture and exotic lampshades.
Multi-cuisine Opp LIC Building, next to Central
Badrinath Rd, 249303 Mall, Fraser Road, Patna RANCHI: Kaveri Restaurant 
Tel (0) 9412076420 Tel (0612) 221 6268 North Indian vegetarian
Great food in a beautiful One of the oldest restaurants 11 GEL Church Complex,
Neemrana property on the in the city, this place serves Main Rd, 834001
banks of the Ganges. vegetarian food. Try their koftas Tel (0651) 233 0330
and kormas – their forte. This is one of the oldest and
VARANASI: Keshari Restaurant  best-known vegetarian
North Indian vegetarian DK Choice restaurants in town. Their
D­14/8, Dasavamedha Rd, Godowlia, South Indian dishes are just
Lahori Tola, 221010 PATNA: Pind Balluchi as good as their North Indian
Tel (0542) 240 1472 Revolving Restaurant  preparations – their speciality.
Popular place with delicious Punjabi
thalis. Good portions of North 16­18th Floor, Biscoman Towers, RANCHI: The Oriental
and South Indian fare. Gandhi Maidan, 803110 Kitchen 
Tel (0) 99343 04634 Chinese
VARANASI: Lotus Lounge  A revolving restaurant with Chanakya Hotel, Station Rd,
Fusion a rustic village theme, Pind 834001
Mansarovar Ghat Balluchi offers phenomenal city Tel (0651) 246 1211-4
Tel (0) 98385 67717 Closed Sun views. This upmarket chain, with A spacious restaurant with
Everything from momos and Thai origins in Punjab, is especially a relaxed vibe in the Chanakya
curries to grilled aubergine and renowned for the kebabs. Hotel. It serves amazing Chinese
salads. Views of the Ganga. food with an Indian twist.
For more information on types of restaurants see page 705
706-719_EW_India.indd 709 26/04/17 11:55 am

710  TR A VELLERS ’ NEEDS

Chung Wah 
Chinese
13 A&B Chittaranjan Ave, 700072
Tel (033) 2237 7003
Established in 1920, this boisterous
place serves Indian-style Chinese.
Try the chilli chicken and chop suey.
BarBQ 
Chinese
43–47–55, Park Street, 700016
Tel (033) 2229 9345
This eatery sells the best Konjee
Crispy Lamb in town and a host
of other Chinese delicacies.
Flurys 
Gently lit interiors at Baan Thai, Kolkata Continental/Bakery
18 Park Street, Kolkata 700016
KHAJURAHO: Mediterraneo  Tel (033) 4000 7453
Madhya Pradesh Italian Established in 1927, this popular
and Chhattisgarh Jain Temples Rd, 471606 café is the place for breakfast.
Tel (07686) 272 246 Fresh cakes, cookies, rich puddings
BANDHAVGARH: Dining Room Excellent-value Italian restaurant and an array of delicious pastries.
at Infinity  with wood-fired pizzas and a
North Indian great range of pastas. Lovely Baan Thai 
Infinity Wilderness, Bijharia outdoor seating. Thai
Tel (07627) 265 395 The Oberoi Grand Hotel, 15
Buffet or à la carte menu in this DK Choice Jawaharlal Nehru Rd, 700013
rustic restaurant with outdoor Tel (033) 2249 2323
seating. Excellent service. KHAJURAHO: Raja Café  Top-quality feast of Thai delicacies.
Multi-cuisine "Khuntock" seating arrange ment,
BHOPAL: Winds n Waves  Opp Western temples, 471606 as well as tables, are available.
Multi-cuisine This legendary eatery is blessed
Van Vihar Rd, Nr Boat Club, 462002 with an excellent location – the Charnock's 
Tel (0755) 266 1523 terrace affords superb views Multi-cuisine
With great views of the lake, of the temples. Great Indian KB-26, Sector 3, Salt Lake, 700098
this MP tourism venture offers a and Continental food, good Tel (033) 2335 1349
range of cuisines and live music. thalis, Hungarian goulash and Pleasant atmosphere and a variety
delicious Italian coffee. of food to suit all tastes. Good
BHOPAL: La Kuchina  views of the city’s outer fringes
Mediterranean
Hotel Jehan Numa Palace, ORCHHA: Fire and Ice 
157 Shamla Hills, 462002 Sheesh Mahal  Italian
Tel (0755) 266 1100 North Indian Kanak Building, 41 Jawaharlal
Sicilian-style decor, quality pasta Hotel Sheesh Mahal, 472246 Nehru Rd, 700071
dishes and wood-oven pizza. Tel (07680) 252 624 Tel (033) 2288 4073
The hotel buffet is good too. Atmospheric dining room in Authentic pizzas and Italian dishes
a beautiful fort with lots of that really hit the mark. Laid-back
GWALIOR: Daawat  antiques. Good North Indian restaurant with movie posters.
North Indian food and an excellent buffet.
Hotel Gwalior Regency, 411776 The Hub – Taj Bengal 
Tel (0751) 234 0670 UJJAIN: Shree Ganga  Multi-cuisine
Specializes in Mughlai and Punjabi North Indian 34B Belvedere Road, Alipore, 700027
food, with a bar. A favourite with 50, Amar Singh Marg, Tel (033) 2223 3939
families and business travellers. Freeganj, 456010 Famous for its brunches,
Tel (0) 94250 91192 breakfasts and opulent decor.
INDORE: Earthen Oven  Old restaurant with impeccable The coffee shop is open 24 hours.
North Indian service and good food. The South
Hotel Fortune Landmark, Near Indian dosas and traditional DK Choice
Meghdoot Gardens, 452010 sweets are recommended.
Tel (0731) 2398 8444 Kewpie's 
Great kebabs and other North Bengali
Indian specialities in a pleasant 2 Elgin Lane, 700020
dining room. Kolkata Tel (033) 2486 9929 Closed Mon
Intimate dining in a quaint
KANHA: Earth Restaurant  Banana Leaf  100-year old residence that has
Multi-cuisine South Indian been attractively refurbished.
Kanha Earth Lodge, 481661 73–75 Rash Behari Ave, 700026 Kewpie's has great charm and
Tel (0124) 422 2657 Tel (033) 2464 1960 authentic Bengali food to
This residents-only restaurant Family restaurant with a huge match. The thali has a wide
serves drinks by the bonfire in pure-veg menu, daily specials range of dishes.
the evenings. and set meals.
Key to Price Guide see page 706
706-719_EW_India.indd 710 26/04/17 11:55 am

WHERE T O EA T AND DRINK  711

Mainland China  an amazing ambience. Live SILIGURI: Amrapali 
Chinese musical performances are the Multi-cuisine
3A Gurusaday Rd, 700019 main draw here. Hotel Cinderella, 3rd Mile,
Tel (033) 2283 7964 Sevoke Rd, 734401
Outstanding food in a pristine GANGTOK: The Oyster Tel (0353) 254 7136
setting – try the skewered jumbo Restaurant  A vegetarian restaurant with
prawns and "drunken chicken" Multi-cuisine courteous staff and a well-
in Shaoxing wine. Hotel Sonam Delek, Tibet Rd, 737101 stocked bar.
Tel (03592) 202 566
Mirch Masala  This place offers magnificent
Multi-cuisine views of Kanchendzonga. There's
49/2 Gariahat Rd, 700019 great variety on the menu. Odisha
Tel (033) 2461 8900 Guests are partial to a breakfast
Lively atmosphere and whacky of French toast and pancakes. BHUBANESWAR: Hare Krishna 
decoration that includes vivid Vegetarian
murals and ambassador taxis. The GANGTOK: Snow Lion Laichand Market Complex,
food is rich and substantial, and Restaurant  Janpath, 751001
the beer cool and refreshing. Multi-cuisine Tel (0674) 253 4188
Hotel Tibet, Paljor Stadium Rd, Come here for fresh Jain
Oh! Calcutta  737101 vegetarian food and superb
Bengali Tel (03592) 203 468 lassis. Well-decorated eatery.
Forum Mall, 10/3 Elgin Rd, 700020 Furnished in Tibetan-style, with
Tel (033) 2283 7161 an eclectic menu. Good place
Award-winning restaurant that to sample Sikkimese dishes. DK Choice
does a fresh take on Bengali BHUBANESWAR: Nakli
cuisine – wonderful fish and GANGTOK: Tangerine  Dhaba 
seafood in a classy setting. Multi-cuisine North Indian
Hotel Chumbi Residency, Mayfair Lagoon, 8–B Jaydev
Zaranj  Tibet Rd, 737101 Vihar, 751013
North Indian Tel (03592) 226 618 Tel (0674) 666 0101
26 Jawaharlal Nehru Rd, 700087 The tandoor oven is a particular Set up like a roadside dhaba,
Tel (033) 2249 0369 draw, along with the twinkling this colourful, atmospheric
Zaranj specializes in Punjabi lights of Rumtek Hill at night. place specializes in Northwest
dishes amidst a medieval decor. Enjoy a casual meal by the bar. Frontier food; fantastic tandoori
Do try the Zaranji Raan. pomfret, mutton rogan josh and
KALIMPONG: Gompu's Bar some vegetarian options too.
and Restaurant 
Multi-cuisine
West Bengal Dambar Chowk, 734301 BHUBANESWAR: Tangerine 
and Sikkim Tel (03552) 255 818 Asian
Bustling restaurant that is a long- Station Square, Janpath, 751001
DARJEELING: Glenary’s  standing Kalimpong favourite. Tel (0674) 253 3009
Multi-cuisine Mainly meat-based options and This popular eatery serves mainly
15 Nehru Rd, 734101 beer available. Thai and Chinese food, along
Tel (0354) 225 7554 with some Indian dishes too.
A fun restaurant, with a bar that is KURSEONG: Pankasari 
a Darjeeling mainstay. Clear days Multi-cuisine CHIKLA LAKE: Panthanivas 
afford Kanchendzonga views. Cochrane Place,132 Pankhabari Rd, Multi-cuisine
734101 Balugaon, Khurda, 752030
DARJEELING: Kunga  Tel (0) 99320 35660 Tel (06756) 227 488
Multi-cuisine Inventive dishes use fresh-from- Lakeside location run by Odisha
51 Gandhi Rd, 734101 the-garden ingredients. Candle- Tourism. Serves decent Indian as
Tel (0354) 225 3971 lit dinners and a tea boutique. well as regional dishes.
Cosy family-run eatery serving
amazing hearty soups and huge
momos. Traveller clientele.
DARJEELING: The Park
Restaurant 
International
41 Laden La Rd, 734101
Tel (0354) 225 5270 Closed mid-
Jan–mid-Feb
Excellent international dishes,
including decent Thai food.
Inviting decor, too.
GANGTOK: Café Live & Loud 
Café
Enchey Compound, Tibet Rd, 737101
Tel (03592) 205 024
Great food and drinks are served
on the terrace at this eatery with Daab Chingri (prawns with chilli paste and coconut cream), Oh! Calcutta, Kolkata
For more information on types of restaurants see page 705

706-719_EW_India.indd 711 26/04/17 11:55 am

712  TR A VELLERS ’ NEEDS


GOPALPUR-ON-SEA: Sea Shell  beautiful Shilloi Lake, this
Seafood Assam and the establishment serves great
Beachfront Northeast food with generous portions.
One of many beach shacks
serving the catch of the day. AGARTALA: Rajdarbar  SHILLONG: Café Shillong –
Good Chinese and cold beer. Multi-cuisine Heritage 
Hotel Rajdhani, BK Rd, 799001 International
GOPALPUR-ON-SEA: Crab Tel (0381) 222 3387 Royal Heritage – Tripura Castle Hotel,
Station  Popular place with cane and Tripura Castle Rd, 793003
Seafood bamboo furnishings inspired by Tel (0364) 250 1149
Mayfair Hotel, 761002 Tripura craftsmanship. Funky café-restaurant in a 1920s
Tel (0680) 282 021 heritage hotel. Enjoy continental
Delicious seafood – the crab AIZAWL: David's Kitchen  favourites by the fire or sit on the
dishes at this hotel-restaurant Multi-cuisine terrace with amazing views.
are particularly good. David's Hotel Clover, Chanmari–
Chaltlang Rd, 796012 TEZPUR: Gabharu 
KONARK: Gitanjali  Tel (0389) 234 1263 Closed Sun Multi-cuisine
Multi-cuisine A popular social spot with Hotel Luit, Ranu Singh Rd, 784001
OTDC, near Sun Temple, 752111 cheerful interiors, free Wi-Fi and Tel (03712) 224 708
Tel (06578) 235 831 an interesting menu. The varied menu, friendly staff
An Odisha Tourism restaurant and pleasing surroundings make
with flavours from across the DIMAPUR: Hotel Tragopan  this Tezpur's most reliable option.
world. Good seafood and Multi-cuisine
Odishan dishes. Circular Rd, 797112
Tel (03862) 230 351
PURI: Peace  Sample traditional Naga cooking Rajasthan
Multi-cuisine such as fish and pork steamed in
CT Rd, 752002 bamboo shoots. The Tragopan BIKANER: Harasar Haveli 
A relaxed garden setting plus Special is a popular fish, or North Indian
good portions of travellers’ chicken curry. Hotel Harasar Haveli, opp Karni
staples including muesli and fruit. Singh Stadium, 334001
GUWAHATI: Paradise  Tel (0151) 220 9891
PURI: Wildgrass  Assamese Great rooftop restaurant with
Oriya GNB Rd, 781003 live music, dance and delicious
VIP Rd, Beach Area, 752001 Tel (0361) 266 6904 Rajasthani dishes.
Tel (0) 94370 23656 A local haunt specializing in the
Expect fabulously fresh seafood, lightly spiced flavours of Assamese BIKANER: Hotel Bhanwar
delicately spiced curries and local cuisine. Order the thali. Niwas 
Odishan food. North Indian
GUWAHATI: Mainland Rampuria St, Old City, 334005
PURI: Xanadu Garden  China  Tel (0151) 220 1043
International Chinese Step back in time at this elegant
CT Rd, 752002 4th Floor, Dona Planet, GS Rd, 781006 dining room that does a glorious
Tel (06752) 227 897 Tel (0361) 246 6222 North Indian buffet.
Friendly garden place with fish Atmospheric modern restaurant
dishes and flavours from around with generous buffets and JAIPUR: Anokhi 
the world. Try the Indonesian spicy Chinese food. Fusion
gado-gado. Great breakfasts too. KK Square Shopping Complex,
IMPHAL: Classic Hotel  Prithviraj Rd, 302001
Multi-cuisine Tel (0141) 400 7244
North AOC, Near Guwahati High A little café serving great salads,
Court, 795001 veggie dishes and coffee, next to
Tel (0385) 244 3967 the Anokhi store.
Choose between Classic Café
and Rita's Café – both stylish, JAIPUR: Peacock Rooftop
with good snacks plus mains. Restaurant 
Multi-cuisine
ITANAGAR: Bhismak Hotel Pearl Palace, Hari Kishan
Restaurant  Somani Marg, Hathroi Fort, 302001
Multi-cuisine Tel (0141) 237 3700
Hotel Donyi Polo Ashok, Hugely popular place, with
C-Sector, 791111 excellent croissants in the morn-
Tel (0360) 221 2611 ing and great views at night.
Sumptuous dishes and a
panoramic view. Local cuisine JAIPUR: Diggi Palace 
prepared on special request. North Indian
Diggi House, Shivaji Road,
KOHIMA: Shilloi  C-Scheme, 302004
Multi-cuisine Tel (0141) 237 3091
Hotel Japhu, PR Hills, 797001 Great North Indian food in a dining
Tel (0370) 224 0211 area that spills out into the garden.
Hilsa prepared in spiced mustard gravy, Located amongst the hills and They have their own cookbook
a speciality of eastern India overlooking the breathtakingly and also run cookery workshops.
Key to Price Guide see page 706
706-719_EW_India.indd 712 26/04/17 11:55 am

WHERE T O EA T AND DRINK  713

JAIPUR: LMB 
North Indian vegetarian
Johari Bazar, 302003
Tel (0141) 256 5844
Jaipur institution famous for its
sweets and egg-free bakery. Serves
a range of vegetarian meals.
JAISALMER: Jaisal Italy 
Fusion
Inside Fort Gate, 345001
Tel (02992) 253 504
Ethnic decor and superb fort
views. As the name suggests,
they have good Italian food
and coffee.
Ambrai Restaurant by Lake Pichola, with views of the City Palace complex
JAISALMER: Shahi Palace 
Multi-cuisine PUSHKAR: Sixth Sense  AHMEDABAD: Sankalp 
Shiv St, near SBBJ bank, 345001 Multi-cuisine South Indian
Tel (02992) 255 920 Inn Seventh Heaven, Samir Building, CG Rd, 380009
Rooftop restaurant with great Mali Ka Mandir, 305022 A popular South Indian chain
views of the fort. Wonderful Tel (0145) 510 5455 with several outlets in the city.
Rajasthani dishes such as Salads, jacket potatoes, pastas They serve delicious food,
kadhi pakoda. and great desserts – all at this and their chutnies are not
beautiful rooftop restaurant. to be missed.
JODHPUR: Café Sheesh
Mahal  UDAIPUR: Ambrai  AHMEDABAD: Swati Snacks 
Multi-cuisine Multi-cuisine Gujarati
Nr Pal Haveli, Clocktower, 342001 Amet Haveli, Nr Leela Palace, 313001 Thakorbhai Hall, Law Garden, 380006
Enjoy sandwiches, snacks, Tel (0294) 243 1085 Tel (079) 2640 5900
brownies and cappuccinos, and Popular lakeside restaurant. Tasty This swish diner serves amazing
watch the world go by. North Indian food. Book ahead rice pancakes made in banana
for lakeside tables. leaf, patra and masala khichdi as
DK Choice UDAIPUR: Food Club  well as other Gujarati staples.
JODHPUR: Indique  Multi-cuisine
North Indian Bada Ramayan Chowk, 313001 DK Choice
Pal Haveli, Clocktower, 342001 Tel (0) 93523 20103 AHMEDABAD: Vishalla 
Tel (0291) 329 3328 Atmospheric place with lakeside Gujarati
With recipes passed down seating in a courtyard. Good Opp Vasna Tol Naka, 5 km
for generations, Indique does North Indian food. (3 miles) outside the city, 380007
good thalis plus an à la carte Tel (079) 2660 2422
menu. It is an atmospheric UDAIPUR: Savage Garden  Sample Gujarati delicacies
place with views of the busy Mediterranean off a banana leaf and drink
market and of Mehrangarh 22 Chandpole, Gangaur Ghat, 313001 from clay cups at this village-
Fort. Live music and Rajasthani Tel (0294) 242 5440 themed restaurant. Traditional
dance every night. A small doorway leads to a royal garba dancing and folk songs
blue courtyard, where fish, mezze add to the atmospehere, and
and pastas can be savoured. there is a village museum on-
JODHPUR: Kalinga  site as well.
North Indian UDAIPUR: Upre by 1559AD 
Opposite station, 342001 Multi-cuisine
The tasty lal maas (red lamb) and Lake Pichola Hotel, AHMEDABAD: Mangaldas
aubergine and okra dishes have Hanuman Ghat, 313001 Ni Haveli 
to be tried. Good breakfasts. Tel (0294) 243 1197 Closed lunch Café
daily Lakha Patel ni Pol, 380001
JODHPUR: Chokelao Elegant rooftop eatery with Tel (079) 2550 6946 Closed Sun
Restaurant  delightful lake views and Beautiful café housed in a
North Indian excellent Rajasthani delicacies. stunningly restored haveli; does
Mehrangarh Fort, 342006 great breakfasts. This is also the
Tel (0291) 255 5389 starting point for guided walks.
Towering above Jodhpur with
good, but pricey North Indian Gujarat AHMEDABAD: Patang – The
thalis. Book in advance. Revolving Restaurant 
AHMEDABAD: Green House  Gujarati
PUSHKAR: Sunset Café  Gujarati Chinubhai Tower, Nehru Bridge
Multi-cuisine House of MG, opp Sidi Sayid Mosque, Corner, Ashram Road, Ahmedabad
Choti Basti, Pushkar Lake, 305022 Lal Darwaza, 380001 Tel (079) 2658 6300
Tel (0145) 277 2725 Tel (079) 2550 6946 This restaurant serving traditional
Especially atmospheric at sunset, Gujarati snacks and light dishes food slowly revolves on an axis,
this café serves up traveller fare in this atmospheric courtyard. changing the scenery and offering
from muesli to veggie burgers. Amazing saffron anise kulfi. stunning views of the city.
For more information on types of restaurants see page 705
706-719_EW_India.indd 713 26/04/17 11:55 am

714  TR A VELLERS ’ NEEDS

DIU: Apana 
Seafood
Old Fort Rd, 362520
Tel (02875) 253 650
Huge platters of seafood,
including lobster, plus dishes
from North and South India.
DIU: O'Coqueiro 
Seafood
Firangiwada Rd, 362520
Tel (0) 98246 81565
Garden restaurant with top-notch
Portuguese-style fish dishes and
curries; superb grilled fish with
coriander potatoes.
VADODARA: Mandap 
Gujarati Convivial atmosphere at the popular Leopold Café, Mumbai
RC Dutt Rd, 390007
Tel (0265) 305 5000 Café Churchill  Mahesh Lunch Home 
With 15 dishes in the Gujarati Continental Seafood
thali, this is a great place to taste Opposite Cusrow Baug, Colaba Next to JW Marriott, Juhu
local food. Cake shop too. Causeway, 400005 Tara Road, 400049
Tel (022) 2284 4689 Tel (022) 6695 5554
A quaint, cosy place on the busy This eatery holds a legendary
Colaba Causeway stretch that's status in Mangalorean cuisine. Try
Mumbai famous for its continental fare. the neer dosa, prawn gassi and
chettinad crab with appam.
Candies  Café Mondegar 
Continental Continental Out of the Blue 
Pali Hill, St Andrews Rd, Bandra West, Shahid Bhagat Singh Rd, 400039 Continental
Tel (022) 2642 4124 Tel (022) 2202 0591 14 Union Park, Off Carter Rd, Khar
A sprawling multi-storied eatery Known among its faithful as West, 400052
with enchanting interiors. Great Mondy's, this eatery is one of the Tel (022) 2600 3000
tuna sandwiches and mutton rolls. first and most iconic bars in Secluded candlelit restaurant,
Mumbai with a jukebox to boot. serving risottos and sizzler plates.
Kailash Parbat Hindu Hotel  Open from morning to late-night. Live music most nights.
Street food and North Indian
5, 1st Pasta Lane, Colaba, 400005 Gajalee  Le Pain Quotidien 
Tel (022) 2287 4823 Seafood Continental
Popular diner with two branches: Hanuman Rd, Vile Parle E, 400057 Dhanraj Mahal, CSM Rd, Colaba,
one does North Indian, the other Tel (022) 2616 6470 400039
excels in street food and sweets. This is the place to try bombil Tel (022) 6615 0202
(Bombay Duck) and chilli-laden Lovely ambience, lively staff and
Noor Mohammadi Hotel  clam and crab masalas. freshly baked desserts; try the
North Indian, Mughlai delectable pastries.
181–183, Abdul Hakim Chowk, Koyla 
Bhendi Bazar, Girgaum, 400003 North Indian Soul Fry 
Tel (022) 2345 6008 Hotel Gulf, Arthur Bunder Rd, Goan
The staff at here are extremely Colaba, 400005 Silver Croft, Pali Mala Rd, Bandra West
affable. Ask for the Chicken Sanju Tel (022) 6636 9999 Tel (022) 2604 6892
Baba, an invention by the Open-air lounge-restaurant This Goan restaurant creates a
Bollywood actor Sanjay Dutt. serving tandoori platters. toes-in-the-sand vibe. Excellent
Hookahs and great views. seafood and vindaloo dishes,
DK Choice Leopold Café  plus dancing to live music.
Britannia & Company  International Theobroma 
Persian Colaba Causeway, 400076 Patisserie
Wakefield House, 11, Sport Road, Tel (022) 2282 8185 Cusrow Baug, Colaba
16, Ballard Estate, Fort, 400001 Colaba icon since 1871with Causeway, 400039
Tel (022) 2261 5264 Closed Dinner clinking beer glasses and Tel (022) 3371 6011
An authentic and eccentric raucous chatter over plates of Sophisticated bakery-café with
Parsi restaurant that's open steak and fried chicken. superb coffee, baguettes and a
just for lunch. Its one-of-a-kind range of chocolate cakes.
berry pulao is a Mumbai must- Ling’s Pavilion 
try. Owner Boman Kohinoor still Chinese The Yoga House 
works the floor at 93 years of 19/21, Mahakavi Bhushan Marg, Vegetarian fast food
age. He’ll drop by to show you Colaba, 400039 Sherly Rajan Rd, Bandra West
his letters from Buckingham Tel (022) 2285 0023 Tel (022) 6554 5001
Palace. End with the delicious Go for the sugarcane prawns and Fresh vegetarian delights; “The
caramel custard. mushroom-stuffed chicken, or Yogi’s Breakfast” is a must-try.
ask for the picks of the day. Yoga classes in the morning.
Key to Price Guide see page 706

706-719_EW_India.indd 714 26/04/17 11:55 am

WHERE T O EA T AND DRINK  715

Dome  KOLHAPUR: Padma Guest PUNE: Malaka Spice 
Lounge House  Asian
Intercontinental Hotel, Regional Lane 5, North Main Rd, Koregaon
Marine Drive, 400020 1550 C Ward, Laxmipuri, 416002 Park, 411021
Tel (022) 3987 9999 Tel (0231) 264 1387 Tel (020) 2615 6293
Tapas-size tasting plates are This humble eatery serves A smart eatery with varied Asian
incidental to the cocktail menu. authentic Kolhapuri cuisine – fare: Thai curries, tempura
Stunning view up Marine Drive. spicy, delicious and heavy vegetables and dim sums.
on the mutton. Excellent thalis.
Indigo 
Continental MAHABALESHWAR:
4, Mandlik Rd, Colaba, 400001 Grapevine  Goa
Tel (022) 6636 8980 International
Meet the Bollywood A-list at this Masjid Rd, 412806 ANJUNA: Anand 
bungalow-restaurant. Exquisite Tel (02168) 260 101 Goan
East-meets-West food. Terrace for The meat-heavy menu here Siolim Rd, 403509
alfresco dining. ranges from European to Indian. Wait in line here for amazingly
Great Parsi veg dhansak and fresh seafood: crab masala,
Olive Bar and Kitchen  salli boti (meat curry with mussel fry and fish curry rice.
Mediterranean potato sticks).
14 Union Park, Pali Hill, 400052 ASHWEM: La Plage 
Tel (022) 2605 8228 NAGPUR: Nanking  French
Favourite hangout of Mumbai’s Chinese Ashwem Beach, 403527
elite, this place serves everything Residency Rd, Sadar, 440001 Tel (0) 98221 21712
from French to Turkish. Excellent Tel (0712) 253 1850 French-run place with tuna with
Sunday brunch. Nagpur’s best Chinese place wasabi mash, pumpkin ravioli
with a menu that includes and a delicious chocolate thali.
Trishna  Hakka noodles and garlic-and-
Seafood chilli paneer. ASSAGAO: Villa Blanche 
7, Sai Baba Marg, Kala Ghoda, Fusion
Fort 400001 NAGPUR: Ashoka  Badem Church Rd, 403507
Tel (022) 2270 3213 International Tel (0) 98221 55099
A fifty-year-old eatery that is Mount Rd, Sadar, 440001 Courtyard-restaurant serving
famed for its seafood, Trishna Tel (0712) 253 1141 salads and German meatballs.
offers great Bombay duck and A popular fixture on the fine- Don’t miss the Sunday brunch.
garlic butter crab. dining scene since it first
opened in 1956, Ashoka serves BAGA: Britto’s 
superb sizzlers and continental Multi-cuisine
food that cannot be missed. Baga Beach, 403516
Maharashtra Tel (0832) 227 7331
NASHIK: Soma  Britto's serves exceptional crab
AURANGABAD: Naivedya  Indian masala, fish caldin curry and
Vegetarian Sula Vineyards, Govardhan, 422222 delicious calamari vindaloo.
Jalna Rd, CIDCO, 431003 Tel (0253) 302 7777
Tel (0240) 248 4191 This establishment is set BAGA: Fiesta 
Clean vegetarian thali place with amongst the famed vineyards Fusion
a choice of spicy Rajasthani and of the region, and serves Tito’s Lane, 403516
sumptuous Gujarati specialities. classic Indian dishes paired Tel (0832) 227 9894
with some of the best wine Beautiful decor, lovely garden
AURANGABAD: produced in India. and delicious food. Great steaks,
Latitude  pastas and plenty of seafood.
International DK Choice
Vivanta by Taj, 8-N - 12, CIDCO,
Rauza Bagh, 431003 PUNE: Hotel Shreyas 
Tel (0240) 661 3737 Vegetarian
This establishment at the Taj 1242-B, Apte Rd, Deccan
is known for its fastidiously Gymkhana, 411004
prepared regional Indian Tel (020) 2553 1228
specialities and attentive service, Shreya’s lays out Pune’s best
in addition to providing relaxing Maharashtrian thali. Waiters
garden views. patrol the dining hall ladling
out endless helpings of veg
CHIPLUN: Riverview curry, rice, rotis and sweets.
Restaurant 
Seafood
Dhamandivi Taluka Khed, PUNE: Touché the Sizzler 
415707 Multi-cuisine
Tel (02355) 259 081 7, Clover Centre, Moledina Rd, Camp
Set in a tranquil resort with Area, 411001
valley views, this restaurant Tel (020) 2613 4632
offers an eclectic menu, but This restaurant serves great
the Konkani seafood specials sizzlers, be it steak, seafood Diners at the stylish yet informal
are a good choice. or vegetarian. Great service. Latitude in Aurangabad
For more information on types of restaurants see page 705
706-719_EW_India.indd 715 26/04/17 11:55 am

716  TR A VELLERS ’ NEEDS


UTORDA: Zeebop by the Sea 
Seafood
Nr Kenilworth Resort, 403713
Tel (0832) 275 5333
Located right on the beach,
Zeebop by the Sea has superb
fresh seafood. Do try their
tantalizingly delicious fish curry
rice and crab papads.
Karnataka
BENGALURU: Maiyas
Restaurants Pvt Ltd 
Intimate dining area at Stone House in Candolim, Goa South Indian
459/30, 30th Cross, 4th Block,
CALANGUTE: Souza Lobo  MORJIM: Sur La Mer  Jayanagar, 560011
Goan Multi-cuisine Tel (080) 43414400 Closed Mon
Calangute Beach, 403516 Morjim Beach, 403512 Specializing in South Indian
Tel (0832) 228 1234 Tel (0) 98500 56742 delicacies such as dosa, idli and
An institution, with favourites Eat by the pool or in a pretty thali. Irresistible filter coffee.
such as crab xacuti, prawn curry dining area. Delightful dishes
rice, pork sorpotel and vindaloo. include three-cheese filo parcels BENGALURU: Mavalli Tiffin
and lobster thermidor. Rooms 
CANDOLIM: Stone House  South Indian vegetarian
Multi-cuisine PALOLEM: Ourem 88  14, Lalbagh Rd, Mavalli, 560027
Fort Aguada Rd, 403515 Fusion Tel (080) 2222 0022 Closed Mon
Tel (0832) 247 9909 Ourem, 403702 This 1924 institution is the place
Popular, with nightly live music, Tel (086) 9882 7679 to taste traditional food such as
fresh fish dishes, and North Stylish café with beer-battered bisi bele bath and rawa idli.
Indian and continental food. fish, seafood pastas and steaks
with rocket mash on the menu. BENGALURU: The Green Path –
CANDOLIM: Bomra’s  Forgotten Food 
Burmese PANAJI: Hotel Venite  Traditional
247 Fort Aquada Rd, 403515 Seafood No. 185/1, Rajeev Gandhi Circle,
Tel (0) 97675 91056 31 January Rd, Althino, 403001 Sampige Road, Bengaluru 560020
Stylish yet relaxed, with amazing Tel (0832) 242 5537 Closed Sun Tel (080) 2356 9777
food including spicy rare beef Old-world eatery with bags of This eatery has been set up in
salad, snapper with lemongrass Portuguese charm and a range order to revive interest in dishes
and the Burmese khao suey. of fish dishes. Sit by the window. and preparations that have been
gradually been lost to the public,
MAJORDA: Martin’s Corner  PANAJI: Viva Panjim  utilizing only organic ingredients.
Multi-cuisine Goan
Binwaddo, Betalbatim, 403713 31 January Rd, Fontainhas, 403001 DK CHOICE
Tel (0832) 288 0413 Tel (0832) 242 2405 Closed Sun
Has a varied menu, but go lunch BENGALURU: Bene 
for the Goan dishes such as pork Goan Portuguese food and tasty Italian
vindaloo and chicken cafreal. seafood – great prawn chilli fry, Sheraton Grand Bangalore Hotel,
Goan sausage palao and home- Brigade Gateway 26/1, Dr
MANDREM: Café Nu  made desserts. Rajkumar Road, 560055
Fusion Tel (080) 4252 1000
Junas Waddo, 403527 QUEPEM: Palacio del Deao  Bene offers an exclusive range
Tel (0) 98506 58568 Goan of divine Italian food. Choose
In a garden setting with fusion Nr Holy Cross Church, 403705 from an impressive array of
food – fish in banana leaves, fig Tel (0832) 266 4029 appetizers and salads, soups,
salad and lemongrass martinis. One can expect the pastas, pizzas and cheese
quintessential Goan experience crafted by the Italian master
DK Choice at this lovely 200-year-old Chef Giuseppe Lioce himself.
Do try their Pizza Iolo and the
mansion. Expect many courses.
MORJIM: Sublime  Booking essential. signature bread.
Fusion
Morjim Beach, 403512 SINQUERIM: Banyan Tree 
Tel (0) 98224 84051 Thai BENGALURU: Karavalli 
Celebrity chef Chris Saleem Agha Taj Holiday Village, Fort Aguada Rd, Coastal
Bee is at the helm of this restau- 403515 The Gateway Hotel, 66 Residency
rant serving up flavours from Tel (0832) 664 5858 Road, 560025
around the world. Choose from Set in the gardens of the lovely Tel (080) 6660 4545
Asiatic beef medallions with Taj property, this is a renowned With a Mangalorean decor and a
wasabi mash, mustard-encrusted Thai restaurant serving all the homely appeal, this eatery serves
fish or the mega-organic salad. usual curry favourites and culinary delicacies from the West
fresh seafood. Coast of the country.
Key to Price Guide see page 706
706-719_EW_India.indd 716 26/04/17 11:55 am

WHERE T O EA T AND DRINK  717

MANGALURU: Gajalee  Saravana Bhavan  DK Choice
Seafood South Indian vegetarian
Circuit House Compound, N Mada St, Mylapore, 600004 Royal Vega 
Kadri Hills, 575004 Tel (044) 2461 1177 Vegetarian
Tel (0824) 222 1900 This locally owned chain has ITC Grand Chola Hotel, 63 Mount
Offshoot of the famous Mumbai branches all over Chennai, Rd, Guindy, 600032
eatery, dishing up great prawn each one offering clean, reliably Tel (044) 2220 0000
biryani and fish masala fry. tasty and cheap South Indian After a ceremonial aarthi
food. Superb ice creams. greeting, guests choose
MYSURU: Hotel Mylari  one of five distinct palace-
South Indian Annalakshmi  themed rooms to dine in.
769 Nazarbad Main Rd, 570010 Vegetarian Feast on exquisite vegetarian
Tel (0) 99800 13292 18/3, Rukmani Lakshmipathy Rd, dishes drawn from royal
A Mysuru institution – both Egmore, 600008 kitchens across India. To
adjacent Mylaris serve divinely Tel (044) 2852 5109 Closed Mon experience it all, order the
crispy, paper-thin dosas. Named after the goddess of food, magnificent thali, served
this charity-run place does one of on a silver platter.
MYSURU: Parklane Hotel  the best thalis and Indian buffets
International in town. Book ahead.
2720 Sri Harsha Rd, 570001
Tel (0821) 400 3500 Curry Town – Savera Hotel 
Courtyard hangout with fairy North Indian Tamil Nadu
lights and live Indian classical Savera Hotel, 146 RK Salai, 600004
music. Tasty biryanis and curries, Tel (044) 2811 3475 KANYAKUMARI: Ocean
weekend BBQs and beer. This place offers the best of Restaurant 
North Indian cooking and International
UDUPI: Mitra Samaj  traditions by Chef Jugesh Arora. Seashore Hotel, East Car St, 629702
South Indian Tel (04652) 246 704
Car St, 576101 Tuscana Pizzeria  Set against the awe-inspiring
Tel (0820) 252 0502 Italian backdrop of the ocean, this
Full of pilgrims, this small place 19 3rd St, Wallace Garden restaurant serves some of the
churns out endless plates of idli, Rd, Nungambakkam, 600006 best seafood, North Indian, South
vada and a variety of dosas. Tel (044) 4503 8008 Indian and Indo-Chinese cuisine.
Excellent for thin-crust,
wood-fired pizzas, carpaccios, DK Choice
cannelonis, plus good desserts.
Chennai KARAIKUDI:
Benjarong  The Bangala 
Mathsya  Thai South Indian
South Indian vegetarian 146, TTK Rd, Alwarpet, 600018 Devakottai Rd, Senjai, 630001
1, Halls Rd, Egmore, 600008 Tel (044) 2432 2640 Tel (04565) 220 221
Tel (044) 2819 1900 Waiters float through this dimly The banquet hall of this heritage
Traditional staples served in a cosy lit room with aromatic bowls of hotel is one of the best places
dining room. The house thali comes chilli-roasted crab, tom yum and to taste Chettinad cuisine. Lunch
with tamarind and coconut dosas. pandanus-wrapped chicken. is served thali-style on banana
leaves. Expect signature Chettinad
Nair Mess  Dakshin at ITC  specials such as chicken pepper
South Indian South Indian fry, crunchy banana vadas and
22 Mohammed Abdullah 2nd St, Sheraton Park Hotel, TTK Rd, coconut pudding on the daily
Chepauk, Triplicane, 600005 Alwarpet, 600018 changing menu.
Tel (044) 2842 0850 Tel (044) 2499 4101
Busy Kerala joint, serving limitless Refined versions of home-style
portions of rice, fish and prawn Keralan, Tamil and Andhra MADURAI: Surya 
curry, and flaky parotta bread. cooking. Live sitar and tabla. South Indian
110 W Perumal Maistry St, 625001
Tel (04522) 343 151
One of Madurai's best
restaurants, Surya provides
stunning rooftop views of the
Meenakshi temple along with
excellent Andhra food and
chilled beer.
MAMALLAPURAM: Golden
Palate 
Vegetarian
Mamallaa Heritage Hotel, 104 East
Raja St, 603104
Tel (0) 93801 26188
This clean and bright hotel
restaurant serves fresh North
Indian comfort food, including
Grand interiors of the Royal Vega restaurant in Chennai rich paneer and lentil dishes.
For more information on types of restaurants see page 705
706-719_EW_India.indd 717 26/04/17 11:55 am

718  TR A VELLERS ’ NEEDS


OOTY: Chandan Vegetarian 
North Indian vegetarian
Nahar Nilgiris Hotel, 52-A
Charing Cross, 643001
Tel (0423) 244 5797
This roomy restaurant in the
Nilgiris Hotel serves excellent
North Indian and vegetarian food.
PUDUCHERRY: Rendezvous 
French
30 Rue Suffren, 605001
Tel (0413) 222 7677 Closed Tue
Classic French food served on
a breezy terrace. The seafood
is particularly good.
PUDUCHERRY: Palais de
Mahe  Traditional Alleppey Fish Curry at the Harbour Restaurant, Alappuzha
Indian
4 Rue de Bussy, 605001 PORT BLAIR: Annapurna  stuffed paranthas. Be prepared
Tel (0413) 234 5611 South Indian to wait, as the queues last
Rooftop restaurant in the heart of Aberdeen Bazar, 744101 throughout the day.
the French quarter. Famous for its Family eatery serving vegetarian
modern-Indian cooking. set meals and light dishes in cool KOCHI: Kashi 
dim interiors. Café
THANJAVUR: Sathars  Burgher St, Fort Kochi, 682001
North Indian PORT BLAIR: Salt n Pepper  Tel (0484) 221 5769 Closed Jun
167 Gandhiji Rd, 613001 Multi-cuisine Serene art gallery-café, spread
Tel (04362) 231 041 Sea Shell Hotel, 744101 over plant-shaded courtyards.
This humble-looking eatery Tel (03192) 242 773 Good coffee and cakes.
serves the best tandoori and The rooftop lounge-bar has magical
biryani in town. views, and the restaurant has the KOCHI: Caza Maria 
tastiest multi-cuisine food in town. South Indian
6/125 Jew Town Rd,
Mattancherry, 682002
Andaman Islands Tel (0) 98460 50901
Kerala Authentic Kerala fish curries
served in an antiques-filled
DK Choice ALAPPUZHA: Chakara  Colonial building in the Jewish
Seafood
Quarter’s spice market.
HAVELOCK ISLAND: Full Raheem Residency, Beach Rd, 688012
Moon Café  Tel (0477) 223 0767 DK Choice
Multi-cuisine Smart rooftop restaurant serving
Beach No 3, 744211 freshly caught fish in South KOCHI: Fort House 
Tel (03192) 282 222 Indian and continental styles. Seafood
Undoubtedly, the best food on Try the Alleppey fish curry. 2/6A Calvathy Rd, 682001
the islands, with a beachside Tel (0484) 221 7103
setting with funky lanterns ALAPPUZHA: Harbour Hidden away in a modest hotel,
beneath palm trees. A range of Restaurant  Fort House has Kochi’s most
Indian food, with a special focus Seafood unforgettable location – tables
on Maharashtrian cuisine, and Beach Rd, 688012 line up along a jetty with fishing
sublime seafood on offer. Global Tel (0477) 223 0767 boats, herons and the occasional
fare from the Levant to China. Sociable beachfront place dolphin drifting by. Refined
serving good fish dishes at a dishes include stir-fried calamari
leisurely pace – perfect for and fish cooked in clay pots.
HAVELOCK ISLAND: enjoying beer and sunset views.
Barefoot 
Multi-cuisine KANNUR: MVK  KOVALAM: Rockholm 
Beach No. 7, Radhanagar, 744101 South Indian International
Tel (0) 98402 38042 SM Rd, 670001 Light House Rd, Vizhinjam, 695523
Drinks and dinner by candle- Tel (0497) 276 7192 Tel (0471) 248 0306
light. Reliable and varied food A Kannur institution offering great This terrace restaurant offers
in a romantic jungle setting. chilli chicken and some of the stunning sea views and Indian,
best biryanis in north Kerala. Chinese and continental dishes.
HAVELOCK ISLAND: Red
Snapper  KOCHI: Dal Roti  KOZHIKODE: Sagar Hotel 
Multi-cuisine North Indian South Indian
The Wild Orchid, Vijaynagar, 744211 1/293 Lilly St, Fort Kochi, 682001 Mavoor Rd, 673572
Tel (03192) 28 2472 Tel (0484) 221 7655 Tel (0495) 272 0152
Slick joint with seafood, Asian, A family-run eatery, this This packed multi-storey café is
continental and vegetarian establishment dishes up some famous for its biryanis. Good dal
dishes, plus a good bar. of Kochi's best kathi rolls and (lentils) and flaky Kerala parotta.
Key to Price Guide see page 706
706-719_EW_India.indd 718 26/04/17 11:55 am

WHERE T O EA T AND DRINK  719

KUMARAKOM: Baker’s VARKALA: GAD at Taj HYDERABAD: The Water
House Taj  Gateway  Front 
International International International
Vivanta by Taj, 686566 Janardhanapuram, 695141 Eat St, Necklace Rd, 500004
Tel (0481) 252 5711 Tel (04706) 673 300 Tel (040) 2330 8899
At dusk, brass lamps twinkle Superb South Indian food and The Water Front offers coastal
around this 120-year-old a great breakfast buffet. This Indian and Chinese fare, but the
bungalow serving pan-global place has relaxing, outdoor areas. views over Hussain Sagar are the
high-end cuisine. main attraction.
MUNNAR: Saravana Bhavan  HYDERABAD: Firdaus 
South Indian vegetarian Andhra Pradesh Mughlai
MG Rd, 685612 and Telangana Taj Krishna Hotel, Banjara Hills, 500034
Tel (0486) 230 418 Tel (040) 6666 2323
Clean and friendly place serving First-rate Mughlai cuisine, with
dosas and huge Kerala-style thalis HYDERABAD: Hotel Shadab  the special Hyderabadi haleem
on banana leaves. Hyderabadi (meat stew) available year-round.
21 High Court Rd, Ghansi
THEKKADY: Our Place  Bazaar, 500066 TIRUPATI:
British Tel (040) 3051 2844 Hyderabad House 
Rosappukandam Kumily, 685509 Scruffy old place in old Hyderabad, South Indian
Tel (0) 93888 63003 dishing up arguably the best Yalamuri Complex, Tuda Rd, 517501
Run by a British-Indian couple, biryanis and kebabs in the city. Tel (0877) 222 3324
this cosy café serves comfort Bustling restaurant offering
English food, along with Indian HYDERABAD: Paradise flavoursome biryanis – both
vegetarian options. Food Court  vegetarian and meat variants.
Hyderabadi
THEKKADY: Falling SD Rd, Paradise Circle, VIJAYAWADA: Aromas 
Leaves  Secunderabad, 500003 North Indian
International Tel (040) 6666 1199 DV Manor Hotel, MG Rd, 520010
Shalimar Spice Garden Resort, Legendary for its biryani, Paradise Tel (0866) 663 4455
Murikkady, 685535 continues to serve fragrant mounds Slick hotel restaurant with a
Tel (04869) 222 132 of the iconic Hyderabad dish. range of Indian food. The North
Atmospheric dining room in a Indian curries are the highlights.
jungle-shaded resort. Indian and DK Choice
Italian options, and Kerala thalis VISAKHAPATNAM:
served on banana leaves. HYDERABAD: Taste Infinity 
of Darkness  Asian
THRISSUR: Hotel Bharat  Multi-cuisine Novotel, Beach Rd, 530003
South Indian vegetarian Inorbit Mall, Hitech City, 500058 Tel (089) 1282 2222
Chembottil Lane, Round South, 680001 Tel (040) 6460 3341 Closed Mon Rooftop place, where glass walls
Tel (0487) 242 1720 A unique concept that is reflect fabulous bay views. Great
Good honest Kerala and South part restaurant, part social for sizzlers and cold beer.
Indian food – dosas, puttu and commentary. Blind waiters lead
thalis – served to huge crowds. you through the pitch black VISAKHAPATNAM:
dining room, and you “see” your Zaffran 
TRIVANDRUM: meal – a simple curry-rice-roti North Indian
Villa Maya  set menu of one to four courses Novotel, Beach Rd, 530003
International – through the eyes of a blind Tel (089) 1282 2222
Airport Rd, Subash Nagar, Enchakkal person. A fascinating insight that This establishment specializes in
Westfort Rd, 695024 only heightens the senses of Awadhi and Northwest Frontier
Tel (0471) 257 8901 smell and taste. cuisine accompanied by ocean
In an 18th-century villa, with views. Private dining rooms too.
pavilions and fountains. Dishes
range from Kerala curries to
Israeli and Moroccan specials.
VARKALA: Juice Shack 
Fast food
Behind Tibetan Market,
North Cliff, 695141
Tel (0) 99952 14515
A backpacker-favourite, this
breezy spot offers Western
comfort food, juices and salads.
VARKALA: Oottupura 
South Indian
Jicky’s Hotel, Near helipad, 695141
Tel (0) 93881 709571
This tumbledown shack serves
tasty vegetarian curries with fresh
rotis to mop them up. A typical Kerala thali served on a banana leaf
For more information on types of restaurants see page 705

706-719_EW_India.indd 719 26/04/17 11:55 am

720  TR A VELLERS ’ NEEDS
SHOPS & MARKETS


India’s superb tradition of textiles, arts accessories. Though often a noisy and
and crafts makes shopping in this country chaotic experience, browsing through the
tremendous fun. The range and quality stalls can often lead to exciting bargains.
is diverse – finely crafted bronzes and Traditional bazaars co-exist with the multi-
metalware, lustrous silks, jewellery, miniature storeyed department stores and shopping
paintings and handwoven carpets, as well malls of urban India, where all manner of
as delightful, inexpensive tribal artifacts and goods, both local and imported, are sold
souvenirs. The kaleidoscope of hues, textures under one roof. These are a favourite with
and scents at local bazaars and markets, local shoppers. For details on shopping
where flowers, fresh produce and spices in Delhi, see pages 100–101; for Kolkata, see
are sold, is fascinating, as are the rows of pages 286–7; for Mumbai, see pages 466–7;
pavement sellers hawking clothes and and for Chennai, see pages 578–9.
Opening Hours
Most shops in the principal
shopping areas in urban India
are open from about 10am
to 9pm. Local stores keep
longer hours, while markets
selling fresh produce are open
for business from dawn until
late at night. Government
emporia have fixed shopping
hours, from 10am to 6pm with
a lunch break between 1pm
and 2pm. Shop timings vary
from city to city, as do holidays.
Republic Day (26 January),
Independence Day (15 August)
and Mahatma Gandhi’s Birthday A shopping mall in Gurgaon
(2 October) are national holidays,
and by law all shops and markets it is wise to carry some cash particular care when purchases
in the country remain closed. for purchases in bazaars and need to be shipped out. Check
smaller shops. Some stores what costs are involved, including
accept traveller’s cheques as insurance, and ensure that all the
How to Pay well, though a passport will paperwork is done correctly.
The rupee is accepted everywhere. be required for identification. International courier services (see
All the larger stores accept International currency, too, can p747) can also be approached to
major international credit cards, be used in certain places. If you ship out large purchases.
such as MasterCard and Visa, but are paying by credit card, ensure
that the voucher is filled out in Bargaining
front of you, to avoid fraud.
Value-Added Tax (VAT), up to A good way to get the best
15 per cent, is charged on some results when bargaining is to
items, unless the bill has been check out costs and quality at
paid in foreign currency or with a number of outlets. Usually, the
a foreign-based credit card. big stores have fixed prices with
no scope for bargaining, but
haggling in bazaars and smaller
Rights and Refunds shops can be quite rewarding.
When you are buying expensive Try not to quote unrealistically
items, such as carpets, jewellery low prices and miss out on a
or antiques, always insist on a good deal in the process.
receipt or cash memo. This is
important, in case damaged Touts
goods need to be returned or
exchanged, though often in India Handle touts firmly and try not
Flower-seller displaying garlands on a this is less easy than it sounds. to succumb to offers of genuine
pavement, Kolkata Refunds, too, are difficult. Take antiques or fantastic bargains.




720-721_EW_India.indd 720 26/04/17 11:55 am

SHOPS & M ARKE T S  721


They all operate on a commission India (see p735) as objects over
basis, and taking visitors to 100 years old cannot be taken
shops of their choice is just a out of the country. However,
means of acquiring extra cash. excellent reproductions can
Tourist coaches often stop at always be found. Exquisite gold
selected stores, but it is not and silver jewellery is readily
obligatory to purchase anything. available, though it is best to
Don’t be taken in by shops that visit established jewellers.
say “government approved”; Jaipur is an excellent place to
these are private enterprises not shop for precious stones, while
to be confused with government- Hyderabad is known for good-
run outlets that have certification quality pearls.
from the Government of India. Rajasthan, particularly
Jaipur, Udaipur and Jodhpur,
specializes in good-quality
Department Stores miniatures, folk paintings and
and Boutiques Colourful paper kites on sale in a religious pichhwais on cloth.
Plush, air-conditioned Rajasthan village Other types of painting, such as
department stores, malls Tibetan thangkas and the jewel-
and plazas, and upmarket buy directly from them. If a craft encrusted Tanjore paintings, are
boutiques are now regular centre is not on your itinerary, available in Ladakh, Himachal
features in most large towns. many cities have arts and craft Pradesh and Tamil Nadu.
They stock a variety of goods, shops that sell handicrafts India’s renowned textile
ranging from clothes and made in the region. tradition ranges from South
leather items to kitchenware. Shopping in local bazaars, India’s glorious silk saris and
International brands of with their noise and colour, is Varanasi brocades to fine
cosmetics, perfume, fashion a unique experience. Located handwoven cottons, in a wide
accessories, home appliances, in the heart of old cities, bazaars range of designs and colours.
glassware and more are also are typically a maze of tiny Inexpensive casual wear can
available here. Boutiques shops and pavement stalls, be bought at pavement stalls.
specialize in popular Indian selling a variety of merchandise, Boutiques are good places for
designer labels, including high- from flowers, vegetables and designer clothes. Carpets and
fashion Western-style and other fresh produce, to cooking woollen goods, especially the
traditional Indian apparel. utensils, textiles and jewellery. pricey pashmina and jamavar
shawls, should be bought
only from reliable shops.
Government Emporia Specialist Stores Tea, spices, herbal products
All state governments have Specialist stores have built and incense are also popular
special outlets, with fixed prices, their reputation on the quality items. Kerala’s spices are
selling textiles and handicrafts of merchandise they sell. The famous, while tea can be
from that partic ular region. These passion for antiques has led purchased all over the country.
emporia have large premises in to a proliferation of shops Herbal cosmetics and incense
all state capitals, and although selling bronzes, stone sculpture are usually sold in general
the range and quality of the and metal artifacts. If you are stores, while attar (traditional
items vary, they are good places buying antiques, check with perfume) can be found in
to shop for gifts and souvenirs. the Archaeological Survey of most bazaars.
Some of the well-stocked ones
that also have branches in most
larger citites are Poompuhar
(Tamil Nadu), Rajasthali
(Rajasthan), Khadi (Delhi) and
Gurjari (Gujarat).

Craft Centres and Bazaars
The diversity of traditional
Indian crafts is one of the
attractions of travelling in this
country. Each region, town and
village specializes in a particular
skill, be it pottery, weaving,
metalware or painting. In some
smaller villages it is possible to
observe artisans at work and Mumbai’s Chor Bazaar, a treasure trove of antiques




720-721_EW_India.indd 721 26/04/17 11:55 am

722  TR A VELLERS ’ NEEDS

What to Buy in India

Shopping in India is a fascinating experience, since the bazaars and boutiques
showcase a wide range of the country’s decorative arts and crafts. The quality can
vary, but the choice is enormous. Superb jewellery, colourful textiles, handicrafts and
artifacts, as well as aromatic spices and herbal products, are all available. There are
also elegant contemporary interpretations of traditional designs. In many places
visitors can watch artisans at work and buy directly from them.





Lacquerware
Bowls and platters in red and black lacquer
were originally imported from Burma. Many
of these can still be found in Chennai and on
Kochi’s Jew Street (see p647). Brassware
A wide variety of perfectly proportioned ritual
and utilitarian objects, such as boxes and lotas
(water pots) were once an essential part of
every household. They are now freely available
in antiques shops all over India.

Silverware
The choice of intricately carved and
embossed silver artifacts includes salvers,
candlesticks, nut bowls and decorative
objects. Different parts of India usually
specialize in a particular craft. Odisha is well
known for its delicate filigree, while in Gujarat
and Rajasthan, silversmiths carve elaborate
designs on a solid base.
Stoneware
Stoneware is strongly influenced by the pietra dura motifs on the
Taj Mahal (see pp178–9). Designers have now created a select range
of tableware for the modern home that uses
white marble as a base, with
delicate patterns printed
in silver and gold foil.




Jewellery Gold necklaces
Exquisite gem-encrusted kundan and enamelled meena kari and bangle
jewellery from North India (see p365), as well as gold
ornaments from the south, are available in
jewellery shops. Tribal or rural-style
silver jewellery is also sold.






Navratna necklace
Silver anklets, bracelet and armband and emerald earring




722-723_EW_India.indd 722 26/04/17 11:50 am

SHOPS & M ARKE T S  723

Textiles
A dazzling choice of block-print fabrics, silk and cotton
woven textiles and gold brocade can be bought by the
metre or as ready-made garments, scarves, saris and home
accessories. Good-quality paisley jamavar and pashmina
shawls are also
available in
select stores.
Printed and silk tissue
cushion covers
Lightweight
cotton quilts Paisley
jamavar
shawl





Brocade textile
and scarf
Bamboo and Cane Products
The northeastern states are famous for their
fine bamboo and cane work. Besides objects
for everyday use, such as large baskets for tea-
pluckers, hats and utensils, artisans have now
created a variety of trays, baskets, boxes and
containers for the contemporary market. Good-
quality furniture is also made for local and
international buyers.
Bronze image


Paintings
Many places, especially
Jaipur, Jodhpur and
Udaipur in Rajasthan, have Tribal
shops and ateliers where elephant
painters skilfully recreate
old miniatures (see p409). Artifacts
Poster colours are now Excellent reproductions of
used instead of natural antique bronzes (see p598)
pigments, but the themes are available in many shops.
are still traditional. These These include images of Hindu
range from court scenes deities, such as Krishna and
to depictions of religious Ganesha, as well as objects
A miniature painting and mythological stories. made by tribal artisans.

Herbal and Beauty Products
Traditional herbal remedies have been
re-invented to suit the modern-day Aromatherapy
need for eco-friendly soaps candles from
and cosmetics, soothing Auroville
oils and lotions.
Aromatherapy is highly
popular, and Auroville
(see p593) has developed
a wide range of scented Joss sticks
candles and joss sticks. (agarbatti) Soaps Ayurvedic cosmetics




722-723_EW_India.indd 723 26/04/17 11:50 am

724  TR A VELLERS ’ NEEDS

ENTERTAINMENT


Entertainment in India offers fascinating response to local conditions, the land
insights into the religious, cultural and social and community. Today, the choice of
diversity of the country. The vast tradition of entertainment includes classical dance and
performing arts is an ancient one, inextricably music, religious dance-dramas, contemporary
linked to religion and mythology. Initially, theatre and colourful temple festivals. There
classical music and dance were performed are popular alternatives as well, especially
as part of temple ritual, while the rich cinemas, where the latest Bollywood and
repertoire of folk forms emerged as a Hollywood blockbusters are shown.

Sources of Information in the larger cities also
Local newspapers and magazines have ticket coun ters;
are good sources of information, event organizers will
as they carry regular listings and indicate where these are
advertisements of events. Often, in the local newspapers.
hotels have in-house publications Hotels or tour operators
highlighting the city’s sights as can often arrange tickets
well as its entertainment venues as well. In cities, online
and programmes. If not, the ticket-booking options
travel desk can usually provide for plays and movies are
the necessary information. available on sites such as
In addition, the India Tourism bookmyshow.com.
offices and website (see p735)
publish an annual calendar of Classical Music
events. Good travel agents can
also let visitors know what is and Dance Folk musicians from Rajasthan playing sarangis
happening where, and can Classical music and dance (string instruments)
help prepare an itinerary of are a dynamic reflection of
cultural events. For details India’s rich cultural heritage (see well as Khajuraho (see pp240–42),
on entertainment in Delhi, pp32–3). Regular performances and offer a unique way to enjoy
see pages 100–101; for Kolkata, of Odissi, Bharat Natyam, India’s many famed dance forms.
see pages 286–7; for Mumbai, Kuchipudi and Kathakali, the Concerts of Indian classical
see pages 466–7; and for dance-drama from Kerala, are music, in the North Indian
Chennai, see pages 578–9. organized by state tourism (Hindustani) and South Indian
departments and private (Carnatic) styles, draw crowds
cultural organizations at of music lovers. Concerts by
Booking Tickets auditoriums and hotels. Dance soloists as well as groups are
For cultural programmes and festivals against the backdrop held regularly in the larger
the cinema, it is best to book of historic sites are also popular. cities. There is often a lively
tickets in advance at the venue Such events are now held at interaction between the
itself. Tele-booking, especially Ajanta and Ellora (see pp480–85), artists and the audience,
for the more popular shows, is Konark (see pp314–16), who express their appreciation
not always reliable. Some stores Mamallapuram (see pp582–5) as by exclaiming or clapping
several times during a concert.
Devotional music, such
as Sufi qawwalis and Hindu
bhajans, also attracts large
audiences. Other forms include
ghazals, lyrical poems in Urdu,
and Rabindra Sangeet, songs
composed by the great Bengali
poet Rabindranath Tagore
(see p296).

Folk Theatre, Music
and Dance
The traditions of folk and
tribal theatre, music and dance
A classical dancer performing at the dance festival at Mamallapuram are as vibrant as those of the




724-725_EW_India.indd 724 26/04/17 11:55 am

ENTER T AINMENT  725



inspiration from India’s rich multiplexes (with fast­food
repertoire of classical and eateries) that offer a mix of
folk forms. both Bollywood and
Hollywood films. Tickets are
more expensive here.
Puppet Shows
Puppetry in India is an
ancient tradition, especially Bars and Discos
in Odisha, Karnataka Nightlife in India is definitely
(see p539), Rajasthan, Tamil getting livelier. While Mumbai’s
Nadu, Andhra Pradesh night spots (see p467),
and West Bengal, where Bengaluru’s pub culture and
itinerant folk performers Goa’s night­long beach parties
use string, rod, glove and and moonlight raves have
shadow puppets to tell been much pub licized, more
A multiplex in New Delhi, with a large poster of a mythological tales to a conservative towns elsewhere
Bollywood release primarily rural audience. in the country now have at
Today, many hotels orga­ least a few bars, pubs, pool
classical forms. At one time, nize cultural programmes for lounges or discotheques.
these indigenous forms were their foreign guests, which Jazz nights and other forms
restricted to the region of their often include a traditional of international music are also
birth. Today, promotion by puppet show. A contemporary becoming regular features in
various cultural organizations puppet theatre movement, restaurants, bars and concerts.
has given folk artistes greater dealing with socially relevant
exposure. As a result urban themes related to education,
audiences can watch Chhau, health and gender and sexu­ Indipop
a masked dance performed by ality, is also becoming popular. After witnessing a surge in the
men from Odisha, Bihar and 1990s and early 2000s, Indipop
West Bengal; balladeers is now less popular among the
(bhopas) and manganiyars from Cinema youth, while film music and
Rajasthan; the garba from The most popular form of songs by international artists,
Gujarat; the exuberant Punjabi entertainment is cinema, are more in demand. Music
bhangra; street theatre (jatra) especially the extravagant channels such as MTV, for
from West Bengal; traditional blockbusters from Bollywood Bollywood music, and VH1,
martial arts from Kerala; and (see pp36–7). Some excellent for international songs and
tamasha, a theatre troupe with regional­language films, which collaborations, are preferred.
dancers and musicians from touch on socially or politically Indipop is now limited to folk­
Maharashtra. During the Dussehra relevant themes, are also made inspired bhangra pop and
festival, Ramlilas – exuberant in Kerala, West Bengal, Tamil remixes of old songs.
dramatiza tions of the epic Nadu and Andhra Pradesh.
Ramayana (see p31) – are held Select theatres hold special
all over North India. The most screenings of avante­garde Fairs and Festivals
elaborate of these take place by films, or New Wave Cinema, The constant cycle of fairs and
the banks of the Ganges in but these lack popular appeal. festivals is intrinsic to the Indian
Varanasi (see p207). There are cinema halls in almost way of life (see pp38–41). From
every town and large village, Holi, the fes tival of colour in
whereas the larger cities have spring, to Diwali, the festival
Contemporary Theatre
of lights at the onset of winter,
In the larger cities, good­quality there are a series of colourful
performances of Western shows celebrations that mark the
are staged. India’s first and changing seasons or mytholo­
hugely successful Disney gical events, as well as countless
musical, Beauty and the Beast, temple festivals. Visitors will
is staged at regular intervals usually have ample opportunity
through the year in different to witness these vignettes
cities. There is also a very strong of the country’s cultural and
tradition of Indian­language religious heritage during their
theatre in Marathi, Gujarati, travels. Being invited to a home
Hindi and Bengali. The range during a festival or a traditional
covers adaptations of contem­ celebration can also be an
porary works by well­known enjoyable experience.
Indian authors, musicals and Each chapter in this book
political satires. Many of these Polo Lounge, a popular bar in the Hyatt has a column highlighting the
productions, draw their Regency Hotel, Delhi main regional festivals.




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726  TR A VELLERS ’ NEEDS
OUTDOOR ACTIVITIES &

SPECIALIST HOLIDAYS


India offers a wide range of sporting and offer a memorable way to explore the
outdoor activities. The larger cities have Rajasthan desert. For the more spiritually
facilities for golf, tennis, swimming and inclined, there are yoga and meditation
riding. Winter (Oct–Feb) is the main season centres, and opportunities to spend time
for sports, such as polo and cricket. For the with renowned gurus at their ashrams. An
more adventurous, there are treks in the increasing number of visitors are attracted
Himalayas, tiger tracking in India’s many by India’s Ayurvedic health spas, and other
wildlife parks, and a choice of rivers for holistic healing centres, which emphasize
white-water rafting. Camel or horse safaris nature-based treatments.
Spectator Sports
residents are allowed to use League, an IPL-style tennis
Indians are cricket-crazy and hotel pools for a fee. In North tournament played in multiple
grab at any chance to watch India, outdoor pools close in countries, with the Indian leg
or play the game. Through the winter. Beach resorts have pools held in December. Matches
year, world-class teams tour the as well as access to beaches. involve tennis legends such as
country and test matches and Before swimming in the sea, Rafael Nadal and Roger Federer,
one-day internationals are held check with the lifeguard that who play in Delhi.
in cities such as Delhi, Kolkata, it is safe. Swimming and sun-
Mumbai, Chennai, Bengaluru, bathing in the nude are strictly Golf
Kanpur and many other prohibited. Major cities have
so-called Tier-2 cities. The Indian government- and privately-run A vast network of clubs with
Premier League (IPL), a clubs that offer tennis, squash well-maintained courses
Twenty20 cricket competition, and swimming facilities. Non- has made India a popular
has made the sport even more members are allowed in for a fee. destination for golfers. The
popular. Announcements of Hotels offer grass- or hard- Royal Calcutta Golf Club was
match schedules and ticket court tennis facilities and can set up as early as 1829, and was
details appear in the national also arrange games at certain followed by others in Raj-era
and local newspapers. local clubs, especially in the hill stations, tea estates and
Football does not have the larger cities. India joined the cantonments. Exclusive golf
high profile that cricket enjoys, Davis Cup fraternity in 1921, and resorts such as the ITC Classic
but in certain places, such as has hosted the event numerous Resort near Manesar, designed
Kolkata, Goa and Kerala, it is times. The RK Khanna Tennis by the international golfer Jack
as popular. The game creates Stadium also organizes Nicklaus, are much frequented,
great hysteria in Kolkata, and tournaments. Among India’s especially by top executives,
professional clubs such as pride are Leander Paes, Mahesh who like to combine a round
Mohun Bagan and its rival Bhupathi and Sania Mirza. All of golf with negotiating
team East Bengal have mass three are multiple Grand Slam business deals.
followings. Check the local winners in either the singles The Indian Golf Union in
press for matches in the city. or mixed-doubles categories. Kolkata organizes a choice
The Indian Super League (ISL), Mahesh is the founder of the of activities, ranging from
played in the second half of International Premier Tennis international events to leisurely
the year, is gaining popularity.
It has football teams owned by
millionaires and business houses,
with a mix of Indian and famous
former international players.
IPL-style leagues have started
for badminton and kabaddi.
Hockey, although a national
passion, is not yet big enough
to attract international events.

Swimming and Tennis
All five-star hotels have
excellent swimming pools with
attached fitness centres. Non- A golfer beneath the ramparts of Jaipur’s Moti Doongri Fort




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OUTDOOR A C TIVITIES & SPECIALIST HOLID A Y S  727


games. It can also arrange
temporary membership at
the Royal Calcutta Golf Club
and the Delhi Golf Club.
Many towns in India, such
as Jaipur, Agra and Ranikhet,
have well-maintained, army-
run golf courses, which are
located in cantonment areas
and are open to foreigners for
a fee. It is therefore worthwhile
enquiring about facilities when
in a new town.
Polo and Riding
Still very much an elitist sport,
polo is enjoying a pleasant Off-road jeep safari, one way of exploring Rajasthan
revival thanks to corporate
sponsorships. The Army Polo While expensive, these trips are as trekking and rafting. The two-
and Riding Club in Delhi is perfect for tourists with plenty day route from Manali to Leh
the main centre, and can be of cash but limited time. The is a very popular one.
contacted for match schedules government-run Pawan Hans
and other information. The Helicopters Ltd also offers heli- Trekking
season is in winter, when trips in collaboration with hotels
regular matches are held in or tour operators. India has a fantastic range
Delhi, Kolkata, Jaipur, Jodhpur of trekking options. Besides
and Mumbai. Jeep Safaris the Himalayas, the Nilgiris
Two of India’s leading teams (see p610) in South India,
still play under the banners of Often, the best way to explore and the Sahyadris (see p477)
the erstwhile princely houses of places that are off-the-beaten in Maharashtra, have many
Jodhpur and Kashmir, while the track is to take one of the many trails for short hikes.
Indian Army continues its long safaris on offer. Jeep safaris are The great Himalayas are
association with polo and fields popular in Ladakh, especially to a trekker’s paradise. Ibex
its own team. Polo is extremely the Nubra Valley (see p147) and Expeditions, a reputable
popular in Jaipur, and matches to the lakes of Tso Moriri and agency, organizes expeditions
are held at the Rajasthan Polo Pangong Tso. Jeep safaris are all over the Himalayas. For
Club near the Rambagh Palace also popular in Lahaul, Spiti and more detailed information on
Hotel. In some hotels in Kinnaur in Himachal Pradesh. trekking and local adventure
Rajasthan’s Shekhawati district, A good base is Manali, which tour operators in Himachal
visitors are taught how to play has a large number of adventure Pradesh, see pages 118–19;
the game. Some variations are tour operators. Among them, in Ladakh and Zanskar, see
elephant and camel polo (both Himalayan Adventurers is a pages 156–7; in Garhwal and
played in Jaipur), while in reputable agency that organizes Kumaon, see pages 192–3;
Ladakh, a rough-and-ready off-road jeep safaris as well as and in West Bengal and
form of polo is played, with other adventure activities such Sikkim, see pages 306–7.
ponies instead of horses. This guide divides trails into
As for riding, thoroughbred three types, based on levels
horses can be hired at clubs in of difficulty. “Easy” ones, which
Delhi and Kolkata, as well as involve mildly strenuous
at the Royal Equestrian Polo walking at mid-high altitudes,
Centre in Jaipur, after applying are a good intro duction.
for a temporary membership. “Moderate” routes cover
various terrains and should
not be attempted by people
Heli Tourism
with heart problems and
For short but delightful package serious ailments. Only
tours, Deccan Charters runs experienced climbers should
helicopter trips to many exotic attempt “tough” treks, since
destinations, such as the these go to very high altitudes
mountain ranges of the north and require high levels of
and northeast, and around fitness. It is mandatory to
Bengaluru and Mumbai. The Trekking over the spectacular Shingo-la carry a permit (see pp734–5)
cost includes food and lodging. pass in Zanskar, Ladakh near international border areas.




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728  TR A VELLERS ’ NEEDS


Himalayan Mountaineering Rishikesh is a popular site
Institute in Darjeeling (see (see p189), as it is just a few
p300), and the Nehru Institute hours drive from Delhi. Many
of Mountaineering in Uttarkashi companies have set up rafting
(see p191), both of which camps and provide equipment
offer courses. during the season. Himalayan
Auli, in Uttarakhand, is the River Runners and Aquaterra
best-equipped ski-centre in Adventures are two of the
India, and is open between reputable agencies that
January and March. For bookings run various rafting camps
and skiing information, contact in Uttarakhand and Ladakh.
the GMVN Office in Dehra Dun,
or the GMVN Tourist Rest
Parasailing, popular in Himachal Pradesh House in Auli, which also hires Water Sports
and Uttarakhand out gear. Solang Nala, 13 km Goa is a popular destination
(8 miles) northwest of Manali, for water sports, where yachting
Camping and also has ski slopes that are open competitions and wind-surfing
Adventure Sports
between February and March. regattas are attended by
Holidays that combine The Atal Bihari Vajpayee enthusiasts from all over the
camping and trekking can be Institute of Mountain eering world. Sports such as water-
particularly enjoyable. Banjara and Allied Sports, in Manali, skiing, sailing, wind-surfing
Camps specializes in tented rents out skiing equipment, and parasailing are offered by
holidays in the scenic Sangla offers mountaineering courses, local agencies, on beaches such
Valley in Himachal Pradesh, and also organizes kayaking as Baga, Vainguinim, Sinquerim,
while Jungle Lodges & on the Beas river. Anjuna and Bogmalo. The
Resorts organizes well-run National Institute of Watersports,
luxury camps in Karnataka. located in Panaji, also offers
India also provides plenty Kayaking and training courses in wind-surfing,
River Rafting
of opportunities to pursue a water-skiing, sailing and scuba
range of adventure sports. The challenge of the fast- diving, and hires out boats and
However, it is advisable to flowing rivers of the Himalayas equipment as well.
take out extra cover on your makes India a popular The Royal Bombay Yacht
insurance if you plan on destination for kayaking and Club, in Mumbai, organizes
trying any of these activities. white-water rafting. Rivers are sailing excursions for visitors
Hang-gliding and parasailing graded from levels I to VI; only every Saturday, while Kerala’s
are offered in Himachal Pradesh, professionals should attempt popular Kovalam Beach has
especially in Manali and rapids that are graded IV and some facilities for surfing and
Dharamsala, and near Billing above. The main destinations snorkelling. In Tamil Nadu, a few
in Kangra. Ooty in Tamil Nadu are the Indus and Zanskar in water sports centres and hotels
is another great hang-gliding Ladakh, the Beas and Satluj in offer water sports facilities
site, while the Western Ghats Himachal Pradesh, the Ganges, along the coast between
in Maharashtra and Goa offer Bhagirathi and Tons in Uttar Chennai and Mamallapuram.
idyllic conditions for parasailing. Pradesh, and the Teesta in The Lakshadweep Islands,
Local tourism offices in each Sikkim. The best seasons off the Kerala coast, have
state organize these sports are between September excellent centres for wind-
and can be contacted for and December, and again surfing, parasailing and water-
bookings and equipment hire. between February and April. skiing, as well as snorkelling
For mountaineering and Numerous agencies run and scuba diving. Lacadives,
rock-climbing enthusiasts, the organized trips and provide on Kadmat Island, has the best-
Himalayas offer a number of tents, rafts, life jackets and equipped centre (see p651). An
challenging peaks, many rising meals. The Ganges near equally exciting destination for
above 7,000 m (22,966 ft).
Uttarakhand and Himachal
Pradesh are India’s main
mountaineering regions, and
Sikkim also offers climbing
in the Himalayas. The Indian
Mountaineering Foundation
in Delhi is the central agency;
it organizes expeditions and
has an active rock-climbing
fraternity, too. It also provides
information on the country’s
other institutes, such as the White-water rafting on the Ganges




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OUTDOOR A C TIVITIES & SPECIALIST HOLID A Y S  729


species in the wild. Ibex
Expeditions organizes eco-
friendly trips to parks all over
India; Exotic Journeys is
another reputable agency.
Jungle Lodges and Resorts
in Karnataka runs numerous
luxury camps, spread across
the Nagarhole and BRT Wildlife
Sanctuaries (see p524), with
coracle boat rides, elephant
safaris and film screenings
Colourful wind-surfing sails, Goa on offer for visitors.
Corbett Park in Uttarakhand
Wildlife Tourism
snorkelling, scuba diving and (see pp196–7), Kanha in Madhya
other water sports is the tropical The country has an extraordinary Pradesh (see pp258–9) and the
Andaman Islands in the Bay diversity of habitats that support Sunderbans in West Bengal
of Bengal. Quality equipment, a vast variety of plant and animal (see pp292–3) are among India’s
including glass-bottomed boats life, including many rare and largest Tiger Reserves.
and scuba gear, is on offer at endangered species. Rajasthan’s Keoladeo Ghana
the Andaman Water Sports Today, India has 166 National Park (see pp372–3)
Complex (see p622) in Port protected national parks and attracts a large variety of
Blair. Adventure parks such as over 515 wildlife sanctuaries migratory birds in winter and is
Wonderla, in Kochi, and others that cover 5 per cent of its a bird-watcher’s paradise, while
in cities such as Bengaluru and total area. Numerous soci eties Kaziranga in Assam (see pp334–
Hyderabad, are popular. are actively involved in 5) is one of the few places in the
environmental issues. world where the Indian rhino
The World Wide Fund for can be found in the wild. The
Fishing Nature, India (WWF), with best park for observing Asian
India’s network of rivers and its headquarters in Delhi, has a elephants is Periyar in Kerala
lakes provides ample opport- regular programme of activities (see pp644–5), which has the
unity for fishing enthusiasts. such as camping trips, film largest population of wild
All fishing in India requires a shows and seminars on wildlife. elephants in the country.
permit, which can be obtained The Bombay Natural History A few practical tips should be
from the Fisheries Officer at Society (BNHS) is one of the followed while visiting wildlife
the various state Fisheries foremost nature institutions reserves. Do not litter and be
Departments. However, it in India. Its first Indian president especially careful not to drop any
is simpler to let an agency was the renowned ornithologist, plastic and synthetic materials.
organize the permits for you. Dr Salim Ali (see p470). The Society, Carry a pair of binoculars, wear
Himalayan River Runners dedicated to conservation, with sturdy boots and never wander
organizes exciting mahseer special emphasis on bird studies, off on your own, as this could
fishing expeditions in the also organizes workshops. be dange rous. Do not play loud
Ganges in February and March. Another eminent institution is music or blow horns within
The best spots in North the Madras Naturalists’ Society. park limits, since this disturbs
India are the Ramganga river, India’s many wildlife reserves the animals. Also, talk softly on
outside Corbett National Park; and game sanctuaries are the safaris to improve the chances
Gangalehri, off the Haridwar- best places to see endangered of spotting wildlife.
Rishikesh road on the Ganges;
and Pong Dam, on the Beas in
Himachal Pradesh. This state
also offers superb trout-fishing
on the Beas river at Katrain,
and in the scenic Sangla Valley
on the Baspa river.
In South India, Jungle
Lodges & Resorts (see p731)
run the Kali River Camp at
Dandeli and the Cauvery
Fishing and Nature Camp,
in Karnataka. These are luxury
camps for discerning visitors
who wish to combine a
fishing holiday with
modern comforts. Tigers can be seen at several reserves in India




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730  TR A VELLERS ’ NEEDS

Cultural Activities
Indian classical dance and
music are taught at renowned
institutes all over the country.
Triveni Kala Sangam (see p79) in
Delhi holds courses in classical
singing, dance and painting.
Dharamsala’s Norbulingka
Institute teaches Tibetan arts
and crafts, including thangka
painting and embroidery. The
dance village of Nrityagram,
near Bengaluru, offers long-term
courses in classical dance,
A traditional head massage with Ayurvedic oils, Kovalam Beach choreography, music and painting.
Kalakshetra in Chennai (see
Yoga and Healing natural foods, and are widely p576) is a premier institute for
Yoga, meditation and Hindu practised in India. Ayurvedic teaching Carnatic music and
philosophy are taught at treatment, using special herbal classical dance, and the Kerala
ashrams and spiritual centres oils, is believed to have Kala Mandalam (see p655), near
in most Indian cities. Some of originated in Kerala (see p633), Thrissur, is another renowned
the best are in Rishikesh, where and is widely practised there centre for the performing arts.
courses are conducted by today. Almost all hotels in the A few travel agencies
learned gurus, renowned in state have Ayurvedic centres, offer special interest tours on
their fields. Of these, the especially around Kovalam subjects such as architecture,
Sivananda Ashram (see p693) and Thiruvananthapuram. rural and tribal culture, tra ditional
is the most famous. The Kairali arts and crafts, and cuisine.
Pune’s Osho Ayurvedic Health They make itineraries to suit
Inter national Resort at individual tastes. Incent Tours
Commune (see Palakkad (with focuses on textiles, architecture
p474), started in branches in Delhi and food, while Travel Link
the 1960s by the and Khajuraho), specializes in tribal tours
charismatic guru and the in Odisha.
Bhagwan Rajneesh, Somatheeram Various institutions all over
offers residential Ayurvedic Resort the country promote traditional
courses in Logo of a yoga centre in Rishikesh at Kovalam are crafts and artisans. The Crafts
meditation and among the best Museum (see pp84–5) in Delhi,
philosophy. The Ramamani centres. For visitors in search and the Dastkar Craft Centre,
Iyengar Memorial Yoga of medical advice and which is near Ranthambhore in
Institute, run by the well- treatment, the Arya Vaidyasala Rajasthan, are two places where
known Yogacharya BKS Iyengar, in Kottakkal (see p656) is a visitors can observe artisans
is also in Pune, and offers a pioneer institute. at work and learn more about
choice of hatha yoga courses. India also has a handful of their skills and way of life.
Among India’s other reputed luxury spas, which emphasize
yoga and meditation centres holistic healing (see p692).
are the Sri Aurobindo Ashram The Jindal Naturecure
in Puducherry (see p693), the Institute in Bengaluru, also
Chinmaya Mission at Mumbai known as Jindal’s Farm, admits
and the Ramakrishna Mission patients for specialized
at Belur Math. Hotels and travel treatments for respiratory and
agencies can find out about stomach disorders, ulcers,
local branches of many of migraines and diabetes.
these centres. Other healing practices,
India also has numerous such as Reiki and Pranic
institutes that conduct courses healing (methods that channel
in Buddhist meditation and positive forces through the
vipassana. Dharamsala and body’s chakras or energy
McLeodganj, the home of centres), are practised in many
the Dalai Lama, have some larger cities, and it is best to
of the best centres. Residential check local city magazines for
courses are held at the Tushita details. A magazine, published
Meditation Centre. Ayurveda every month, called Life
and naturopathy rely on the Positive, focuses on New-Age Gujarati musicians at the Crafts Museum,
healing powers of herbs and healing techniques. New Delhi




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OUTDOOR A C TIVITIES & SPECIALIST HOLID A Y S  731


DIRECTORY
Sports Camping & Royal Bombay Ramamani Iyengar
Adventure Sports Yacht Club Memorial Yoga
Indian Golf Union Apollo Bunder, near Taj Institute
C-1/52, 3rd floor, Atal Bihari Vajpayee Mahal Hotel, Mumbai. 1107 B/1 Hare Krishna
Safdarjung Development Institute of Tel (022) 2202 1880. Mandir Rd, Model Colony,
Area, Hauz Khas Village Mountaineering and ∑ rbyc.co.in Shivaji Nagar, Pune.
Road, New Delhi. Allied Sports Tel (020) 2565 6134.
Tel (011) 2652 5771. Manali. Wildlife ∑ bksiyengar.com
∑ indiangolfunion.org Tel (01902) 252 342. Tourism Tushita Meditation
Centre
RK Khanna Tennis Banjara Camps Bombay Natural McLeodganj.
Stadium 26, Nangal Devat, behind History Society Tel (8988) 160 988.
Tennis Stadium, Africa Spinal Injuries Hospital, Hornbill House, Shaheed ∑ tushita.info
Avenue, Delhi. Vasant Kunj, New Delhi. Bhagat Singh Rd,
Tel (011) 2619 3955. Tel (011) 6515 2334. Mumbai. Cultural Activities
∑ banjaracamps.com Tel (022) 2282 1811.
Polo & Riding GMVN ∑ bnhs.org Dastkar Craft Centre
Kutalpura Village.
74/1 Rajpur Rd, Madras Naturalists’ Tel (07462) 252 051.
Army Polo & Society
Riding Club Dehradun. 8 Janaki Avenue, Incent Tours
Brar Square, Delhi. Tel (0135) 265 4371. Abhiramapuram, 29, Panchsheel
Tel (011) 2569 9444/9555. GMVN Tourist Rest Chennai. Community Centre,
∑ armypoloclub.com House, Auli Tel (044) 2499 5833. Panchsheel Park,
New Delhi.
Tel (01352) 740 896. ∑ blackbuck.org.in
Royal Equestrian Tel (011) 4085 0000.
Polo Centre Indian Mountain eering World Wide Fund for ∑ incent­tours.com
Dundlod House, Foundation Nature, India Norbulingka Institute
Civil Lines, Jaipur. 6 Benito Juarez Marg, 172-B, Max Mueller Sidhpur, Dharamsala.
Tel (09829) 212 176. Delhi. Tel (011) 2411 Marg, Lodi Estate, Delhi. Tel (09418) 436 410.
∑ dundlod.com 1211. ∑ indmount.org Tel (011) 2463 3473. ∑ norbulingka.org
∑ wwfindia.org
Jungle Lodges Nrityagram
Heli-Tourism & Resorts Yoga & Healing The Dance Village,
Deccan Charters West Entrance, Khanija Hessaraghatta, Bengaluru.
Tel (080) 2846 6313.
Bhawan Race Course, Arya Vaidyasala
Yelakhanka, Bengaluru. Kottakkal, Kerala. ∑ nrityagram.org
Tel (1800) 103 1034. Bengaluru. Tel (0483) 280 8000. Travel Link
∑ deccanair.com Tel (080) 4055 4055. ∑ aryavaidyasala.com
∑ junglelodges.com Metro House, Vani
Pawan Hans Chinmaya Mission Vihar Square,
Helicopters Ltd. Kayaking & Central Chinmaya Mission Bhubaneswar, Odisha.
C-14, Sector 1, Noida, River Rafting Trust, F-3 Panchsheel, Tel (0674) 254 6591.
∑ travellink­india.com
Uttar Pradesh. Aquaterra C Road, Churchgate,
Tel (120) 2476 9838. Adventures Mumbai. Tel (022) 2281
∑ pawanhans.co.in 4646. ∑ chinmaya­
S–507 Greater Kailash II, mission.com
Jeep Safaris Delhi. Tel (011) 2921 Jindal Naturecure
2641. ∑ aquaterra.in
Himalayan Himalayan River Institute
Jindal Nagar, Bengaluru.
Adventurers Runners Tel (080) 2371 7777.
The Mall, Manali. 101, 1st floor, Ashirwad ∑ jindalnaturecure.in
Tel (01902) 252 750. Building, Green Park, New
Fax (01902) 252 182. Delhi. Tel (011) 2685 Kairali Ayurvedic
∑ himalayan 2602. ∑ hrrindia.com Health Resort
adventurersindia.com D-120 Andheria Modh
Mehrauli, Delhi.
Water Sports
Trekking Tel 9555156156.
National Institute of ∑ kairali.com
Ibex Expeditions Watersports Osho International
30, Community Centre Sundial Building, AB Rd, Meditation Resort
East of Kailash, Delhi. Altinho, Panaji, Goa. 17 Koregaon Park, Pune.
Tel (011) 2646 0246. Tel (0832) 243 6550. Tel (020) 6601 9999.
∑ ibexexpeditions.com ∑ niws.nic.in ∑ osho.com

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survival


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Practical Information 734–747

Travel Information 748–759





















































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734  SUR VIV AL GUIDE

PRACTICAL INFORMATION

India receives over 8 million visitors each not equipped to cater to the international
year. The peak season is in winter (Oct–Mar), tourist, who may seek better banking
and it is wise to book ahead during this services or prefer to pay by credit card.
time. English is widely spoken in most parts The Department of Tourism has offices
of the country, so communication is rarely a across the country, (see p757) as well as
problem. Tourist infrastructure (transportation, overseas, and these provide brochures
accommodation and restaurants) is of and itineraries and organize guided tours.
international stan dard in the larger cities; There are many travel agencies in India,
the remoter areas offer fairly basic but it is wise to approach a reputable one
accommodation, and some areas are still for accommodation, tickets and tours.

When to Go November until February, you Foreigners who arrive in India
India’s weather is, for most, the will need a warm jacket, sweater on this visa do not need to
key factor in deciding when to and socks, especially after sun- register themselves with a local
visit. The best time is between down, whereas in the south, the authority and can travel freely
October and March, when weather is balmy at that time. In in all areas except the so-called
conditions are pleasant across February and March, and again “Protected Areas”, which require
the country. Try to avoid the in October, bring light woollens. special permits.
summer (Apr–Jun), which is During the summer and Visa extensions are only
unbearably hot in the North, monsoon season (Apr–Sep) granted in exceptional
and very sultry in the South. The only loose-fitting cotton clothes cases, for a longer period.
rainy season (Jul–Sep) is also are comfort able. Bring footwear The application process is
best avoided, as frequent heavy that is easy to remove, as you complicated. In Delhi, collect
rainfall can make travel difficult, will have to take off your shoes an extension form from the
especially in the southwestern in places of worship. A first- Ministry of Home Affairs office;
states of Goa, Maharashtra and aid kit is a must (see p742). A then submit it to the Foreigners
Kerala. The Himalayan region raincoat or umbrella, a hat to Regional Registration Office
can be very cold from November protect against the strong sun, (FRRO); it will finally be issued
to January. The foothills, which and a torch are also useful. by the Ministry of Home Affairs.
provide a welcome escape from In Delhi, Mumbai, Chennai or
the heat of the plains, are at Advance Booking Kolkata, contact the local FRRO.
their best between March and
June, and again in September It is advisable to have confirmed Travel Safety Advice
(after the rains). Climate and advance bookings for accom-
rainfall charts can be found modation and travel, especially Visitors can get up-to-date travel
on pages 42–3. during the peak season (Oct– safety information from the
Mar). Airline tickets are available Foreign and Commonwealth
at short notice, but as trains are Office in the UK, the State
What to Take
always crowded, bookings Department in the US and the
The clothes you need will should be made ahead – ticket Department of Foreign Affairs
depend on the time of year that reservations can be made four and Trade in Australia.
you visit. In Northern India, from months in advance. Insist on
written confirmations and carry Permits
print outs of the receipts.
In addition to a visa, you may
need special travel permits
Visas and Passport
to visit what are known as
All visitors to India, except “Protected Areas”. Obtaining a
Nepalese and Bhutanese permit can be complicated, so
citizens, need a valid visa and it is best to ask a reliable travel
passport to enter the country. agent, at home or in India, to
Indian consular offices around arrange it for you. This can take
the world issue a standard six- up to four weeks, so plan in
month tourist visa. Tourists can advance. Permits are also issued
enter the country three times by Indian embassies and con-
within the stipulated visa sular offices abroad; from the
period, which is convenient for FRRO in Delhi, Kolkata, Mumbai
A Goa café doing brisk business in winter, visiting neighbouring countries and Chennai; and from the
when the weather is balmy such as Nepal and Sri Lanka. Resident Commiss ioner’s offices
The popular Darjeeling Toy Train on the Batasia Loop



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PR A C TIC AL INFORM A TION  735

Embassies and
in Delhi. You will be asked to must also fill a currency
show these permits when Consulates declaration form if the
travelling in restricted areas. You Most countries have embassies aggregate value of their
will also need trekking permits in Delhi, as well as consulates foreign exchange including
for the Himalayan regions in Mumbai, Kolkata and currency of more than
bordering Pakistan, Tibet and Chennai. Con sular offices can US$10,000 or equivalent.
China, and for treks in re-issue passports and assist There is a heavy duty charge
Uttarakhand (see pp192–3), in case of emergencies, such if the baggage value limit is
Himachal Pradesh (see pp118–19), as theft, imprisonment and exceeded. Antiques over 100
Ladakh (see p146, p147 & pp156–7) hospitalization. All city telephone years old cannot be exported,
and West Bengal and Sikkim directories and information neither can wildlife products,
(see pp306–7). All visitors to guides carry detailed listings such as animal pelts, shahtoosh
Sikkim require 15-day travel of embassies and consulates, shawls or ivory. Consult the
permits, because of its proximity as does the Indian Ministry Archaeological Survey of
to a sensitive border with China. of Tourism’s website (www. India (ASI) and the Ministry
Among the seven north- tour-india.net). of Environment and Forests
eastern states, no permits are for details of these rules.
required for Assam, Meghalaya Customs Information
and Tripura. However, permits
are required for Arunachal When entering India, visitors Immunization
Pradesh, Mizoram, Manipur and have a duty-free allowance Only visitors travelling from
Nagaland, and can be acquired of 2 litres of alcohol, liquor certain countries in Africa and
from any of the state tourist or wine, 200 cigarettes, up to Central and South America
offices. In some areas, permits 50 cigars, 250 grams of tobacco require a valid vaccination
are issued only to groups of and one laptop. Passengers certificate for yellow fever.
four or more – these are best have to declare the contents However, visitors should get
organised by a travel agent. of their baggage in the vaccinated against tetanus,
Foreign nationals require a prescribed Indian Customs typhoid and hepatitis A and B.
permit, valid for 30 days, for Declaration Form. At airports, It is also advisable to start a
the Andaman Islands, but this passengers have the option course of anti-malarial tablets
excludes tribal areas and some of seeking clearance through before leaving for India, after
islands, including Nicobar. the green channel (no dutiable consulting a doctor (see p743).
Permits can be obtained on goods) or red channel
arrival at the immigration counter (dutiable goods). Insurance
at Port Blair airport, or at Kolkata For articles such as jewellery,
and Chennai airports. If travelling video cameras, music systems Take out an insurance policy
by ship, a permit can be obtained or laptop computers, they for medical emergencies as
on arrival at Port Blair, as well as must fill in the tourist baggage well as theft before leaving
from the FRRO offices in the four re-export form, undertaking home. Travel insurance is also
main cities. For permits to travel to take these items back or essential to cover any adventure
to the Lakshadweep Islands, else pay a fairly heavy duty activity or sport that you may
(see pp650–51). on them on departure. They undertake on your trip.

DIRECTORY
FRRO Ministry of US ASI
Home Affairs US Department of State.
∑ boi.gov.in ∑ travel.state.gov 11, Janpath, New Delhi.
Delhi Delhi Tel (011) 2301 5081.
∑ asi.nic.in
North Block, Central
East Block 8, Level 2, Secretariat. Travel Agents
Sector 1, RK Puram. ∑ mha.nic.in/contact Abercrombie & Kent Ministry of
Tel (011) 2671 1443. Tel (011) 4600 1720 (India). Environment &
Mumbai Travel Safety Tel (0044) 01242 547 700 Forests
(UK). ∑ akdmc.com
Special Branch Building, Advice Paryavaran Bhavan, CGO
Badruddin Tayabji Lane. Australia Cox & Kings
Tel (1800) 209 0400 (India). Complex, Lodi Rd, New
Tel (022) 2262 1169. Department of Foreign Tel (0044) 020 7873 5000 Delhi. Tel (011) 2436 1669.
Chennai Affairs and Trade (UK). ∑ coxandkings.
∑ dfat.gov.au
Shastri Bhavan Annexe, com General
26 Haddow Rd. ∑ smartraveller.gov.uk Kuoni Travel India Information
Tel (044) 2825 1721. UK (022) 6661 7500 (India). ∑ outlooktraveller.com
Foreign and
∑ kuoni.in
Kolkata Commonwealth Office Mercury Travels ∑ travel.indiamart.com
237 AJC Bose Rd. ∑ gov.uk/foreign- Tel (011) 4150 2008 (India). ∑ tourindia.com
Tel (033) 2290 0549. travel-advice ∑ mercurytravels.co.in ∑ tripadvisor.in
734-735_EW_India.indd 735 26/04/17 11:56 am

736  SUR VIV AL GUIDE

Tourist Information denomination, it is advisable to tourist department accreditation.
Tourist information offices run dress conservatively, check if French-, Italian-, Spanish-,
by the Government of India footwear is allowed and ask if German-, Russian- and Japanese-
Ministry of Tourism (see p757) you may enter (see pp738–9). speaking guides are also available
can be found across the country at many popular destinations.
and abroad. Each state also has Holidays and
its own tourism department,
providing reliable and detailed Opening Hours Backpackers
advice and practical information Each year, the government For students and young
on sightseeing, travel issues a new holiday list travellers, most of the larger
and where to stay (see p39) that includes all cities have branches of the
stay. Tourist brochures major religious Youth Hostels Asso ciation of
and maps are readily festivals, whose India (YHAI) (see p693). Though
available. A number of exact dates may it is not necessary to be a
travel sites on the change from year member of the association to
Internet also provide to year. Some are stay, members do get priority
up-to-date information. known as “restricted and lower rates. YMCA hostels in
There are information holidays”, which means larger cities also provide cheap
counters in the arrival that though the office lodgings for backpackers. Apart
halls of international and may be open, the staff from these, plenty of other cheap
domestic airports, as may be on leave. Banks, options are available across the
well as information Tourist brochures offices and most country, including the smaller
booths at railway and markets remain closed towns. It is a good idea to
bus stations. on the three national holidays: exercise caution and carry
Republic Day (26 January), luggage with locks when staying
Independence Day (15 August) in low-cost accommodations.
Admission Charges and Mahatma Gandhi’s birthday Many of these places are not air
A common entry ticket (₹500 (2 October). Monuments and conditioned, nor do they have
for foreign visitors; ₹30 for museums are normally open mosquito nets – the latter are
domestic ones) allows access to 10am–6pm with an hour’s lunch essential, and available locally.
several of India’s UNESCO World break, and generally closed on Do not leave money and
Heritage sites. The Taj Mahal is Mondays and government important documents in your
not included in this deal. Another holidays. Markets and shops hotel; keep them with you at
common entry ticket covers stay open until at least 8pm in all times. Be wary of conmen
the monuments run by the most places. Most government enticing you with the promise
Archaeological Survey of India offices work from Monday to of cheap accommodation and
(ASI). Tickets can be purchased Friday, from 9:30am to 6pm bargain shopping.
from ASI offices and monuments with, supposedly, a half-hour
and from branches of the India lunch break.
Tourism Development Facilities for Travellers
with Special Needs
Corporation (ITDC).
There are often additional Guides Facilities for travellers with
fees for cameras and video All tourist offices, travel agents special needs are still relatively
cam eras (but not for phone and hotels can arrange a basic across the country, but
cameras), and for special shows certified guide for fixed hourly a growing number of places
such as Son et Lumière. Most rates. At popular monuments, are now introducing ramps
places of worship do not have amateur guides can be a nuisance. or rails. However, airports and
admission fees, but often Look instead for English-speaking all main railway stations do
have a donation box. If you guides, who wear a metal have wheelchairs and ramps,
are of a different religious badge certifying government and porters are always available
to carry luggage. Pavements
are difficult to negotiate in a
wheelchair, as they are often
uneven. Few hotels are
equipped for the needs of a
traveller with special needs.
The staff, however, will go
out of their way to help.

Facilities for Children
Although some luxury hotels do
have baby-sitting facilities, these
Visitors on a guided tour of the lake at Ranganathittoo Bird Sanctuary, Karnataka services are not commonly




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PR A C TIC AL INFORM A TION  737


available. However, Indians are calendar is used for all official DIRECTORY
generally tolerant of children, work as this avoids the confusion
who are warmly welcomed in of traditional calendars, State Government
most places. If you are travelling which vary between religions Tourist Offices in India
with young infants, it is and regions.
advisable to bring your own Delhi
supplies of baby food and 18-A, D.D.A. SCO Complex,
formula milk. Disposable Measurements and Defence Colony.
Conversion Chart
nappies are widely available. Tel (011) 2464 7005.
The metric system is most ∑ delhitourism.gov.in
commonly used all over
Language Goa
the country.
Though Hindi is the official Paryatan Bhavan, 3rd floor, Patto,
language of India, there are Imperial to Metric Panaji. Tel (0832) 243 7132.
several regional languages as 1 inch = 2.5 centimetres ∑ goa-tourism.com
well. Bengali is spoken in 1 foot = 30 centimetres
Kolkata and West Bengal, 1 mile = 1.6 kilometres Himachal Pradesh
Marathi in Mumbai and 1 ounce = 28 grams The Mall, Shimla.
Maharashtra, Tamil in Tamil 1 pound = 454 grams Tel (0190) 225 2175.
Nadu, Telugu in Andhra 1 pint = 0.6 litres ∑ himachaltourism.gov.in
Pradesh and Malayalam in 1 gallon = 4.5 litres
Kerala. English has become the Kerala
Park View Building,
most convenient link language Metric to Imperial
and is widely spoken in most 1 centimetre = 0.4 inches Thiruvananthapuram.
Indian cities. It is also the 1 metre = 3 feet 3 inches Tel (0471) 232 1132.
language of commerce, and 1 kilometre = 0.6 miles ∑ keralatourism.org
most people who deal with 1 gram = 0.04 ounces Madhya Pradesh
tourists, such as taxi drivers, 1 kilogram = 2.2 pounds Paryatan Bhavan, Bhadbhada Rd,
guides, hotel staff, shop 1 litre = 1.8 pints Bhopal. Tel (0755) 402 7100.
assistants and officials, speak ∑ mptourism.com
English. Road signs and
numbers are usually in English Maharashtra
as well as in the regional Opposite LIC Building,
language of the particular state. Madame Cama Rd, Mumbai.
Tel (022) 2284 5678.
Electricity ∑ maharashtratourism.gov.in
The electrical current in India Rajasthan
is 220–240 volts, 50 Hz. The Paryatan Bhawan, MI Rd, Jaipur.
power supply can be very Tel (0141) 511 0598.
erratic during the summer ∑ rajasthantourism.gov.in
months, with low voltage,
fluctuations and fairly long Tamil Nadu
power cuts. A range of plugs TN Tourism Complex, No. 2,
Triple round-pin sockets Wallajah Rd, Triplicane, Chennai.
are the norm, but adaptors Photography Tel (044) 2533 3444.
and transformers are easily ∑ tamilnadutourism.org
available at the larger stores. Sophisticated digital, film and
It is advisable to carry a colour-processing facilities are Uttar Pradesh
power surge cable to protect available, even in smaller towns. C-13, Vipin Khand, Gomti Nagar,
laptop computers against Larger photo shops have excel- Lucknow. Tel (0522) 230 7037.
voltage fluctuations. lent developing and printing ∑ up-tourism.com
facilities and offer quick services.
Taking pictures of women, Uttarakhand
Indian Standard Time tribal communities, and places Countrywide Tours and Travels,
and Calendar
of worship can be sensitive issues, 5, Kailash Gate, Rishikesh.
In spite of its size, India has and it is best to ask before using Tel (09412) 991 555.
only one standard time. India your camera. Photographing ∑ uttaranchaltourism.in
is 5.5 hours ahead of Greenwich security-sensitive areas, such as
Mean Time (GMT) 4.5 hours railway stations, dams, airports West Bengal
behind Australian Eastern and military installations, is 3/2 BBD Bag (East), Kolkata.
Standard Time, and 10.5 hours prohibited. Notice boards Tel (033) 2243 6440.
ahead of US Eastern Standard indicate where photography ∑ wbtourism.gov.in
Time. The Western Gregorian is not allowed.




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738  SUR VIV AL GUIDE

Etiquette

India is a kaleidoscope of traditional values and the influx of
western influences due to its blossoming economy. In cities
and larger towns, you will find youngsters following the latest
fashion trends. They have a modern, cosmopolitan outlook
but remain traditional in many ways. Though the diverse
social, religious and caste groups have their own distinct
customs, they share certain common values. Respect for elders
is deeply ingrained, so it is important to treat older people
with special courtesy. Indians are extremely hospitable and
helpful to visitors. It is a good idea to respond to bring your
hosts flowers, or a small gift, even though this is not an Indian
custom. If you find yourself facing delays and inefficient Eating off banana leaves at a ceremonial
services, or grappling with bureaucracy, it is far more effective temple feast
to remain calm and polite than to lose your temper. Suitable Dress
Indians tend to dress
conser vatively and keep the
Greeting People a friendly gesture to get to body well covered. In small
The traditional greeting in India know the other person. towns, most women wear saris
is the namaskar or namaste or salwar-kameez (see p34). In
(pronounced “namastay”) when cities, jeans, skirts and t-shirts
meeting or parting. The palms Body Language are common, particularly
are pressed together, raised The feet are considered to be among the younger generation.
towards the face, and the the lowliest part of the body, However, men do tend to stare
head is bent slightly forward. and shoes are treated as unclean. at skimpily clad women.
Greetings and gestures vary People will usually take their It is best to dress formally
somewhat according to religion shoes off before entering a when visiting Indian homes.
or regional group. Muslims raise house. Putting your feet up on In fact, wearing an Indian
their right hand towards the the furniture is considered bad outfit for the occasion will
forehead with the words adaab manners, as is touching probably delight your hosts.
or salaam aleikum (to which someone inadvertently with your Inexpensive, ready-made
you reply walekum feet. If you are sitting Indian clothes for men and
salaam). The Western on the floor, as is women are widely available.
handshake is also often the case, try to It is acceptable for men
widely used, though keep your feet tucked to go shirtless on the beach.
more conservative underneath rather Nude sunbathing is never
women still prefer than stretched out, allowed, and women are
to greet visitors with and avoid stepping advised to wear full swimsuits,
a namaskar. over people. or sarongs over their bikinis.
The suffix “ji” after The head, on the If you are going out for the
someone’s name is other hand, is evening, remember that
a mark of respect. Namaskar, the thought to be a most nightclubs have a dress
Using first names only traditional greeting person’s spiritual code, and you may not get
can be taken as overly centre. An older in if you are wearing shorts
familiar, so it’s best to address person may bless someone or trainers.
new acquaintances as Mr, younger by touching his or
Miss or Mrs, or simply “ji”. her head.
Older people, particularly Living in close quarters with Places of Worship
grandparents, are treated with family and neighbours gives Whether you are visiting
great respect, and younger Indians a different sense of a Hindu temple, Buddhist
relatives often greet them by “personal space” than many monastery, Islamic mosque
touching their feet. Your host Westerners are used to. If you or Sikh gurdwara, make sure
will not expect you to do the find yourself crowded or jostled, that you behave and dress
same, but a courteous greeting particularly while travelling, be appropriately. You should, for
in any form is important. as tolerant as you can, since example, always ask permission
Questions about one’s marital space is often at a premium. to take photographs. Women
status or salary from someone You should also be aware should wear dresses that cover
you have just met should not that public displays of affection the upper arms, and are at least
be considered an invasion of between couples are frowned mid-calf length, and take
privacy. It is nothing more than upon in Indian society. scarves along to cover their




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PR A C TIC AL INFORM A TION  739


heads. It is acceptable for Eating Indian Style smoking in all public places,
women to wear long trousers. Eating with your fingers can including restaurants, bars, hotels,
Men should avoid shorts and take a bit of getting used to, offices and flights. Smoking or
may be asked to cover their but it is the best way to enjoy drinking within the precincts of
heads with a handkerchief traditional Indian food. If in doubt a temple, gurdwara or mosque
or scarf (rather than a hat). about how to eat a particular is strictly taboo, and in Amritsar,
Jain temples have strict dish, don’t be embarrassed to no smoking is permitted within
rules, and will not allow leather ask. It is considered impolite to the city limits.
items, even wallets or watch use your left hand for eating. Alcohol is available all over
straps, inside. In some Sitting on the floor for meals India, though the state of Gujarat
South Indian is common is “dry”, as are some religious sites
temples, men and, in and temple towns, such as
are expected the South, Haridwar, Rishikesh and Pushkar.
to remove banana In addition, there are certain
their shirts leaves are designated “dry days” all over
and wear a often used the country, such as Mahatma
dhoti instead instead Gandhi’s birthday (2 October)
of trousers. of plates. and Independence Day (15
These are August). Select restaurants are
often provided Tipping licensed to serve alchohol, and
at the temple you are not allowed to drink
entrance. At Sign for removing footwear There are no alcohol in parks, buses or trains.
most places of norms for
worship, shoes are taken off tipping, or baksheesh, as it is Beggars
at the door, and you should called. Porters and doormen at
sit with your feet facing away hotels are usually happy with a As a foreign visitor in India, you
from the main shrine. In a 20 or 50 rupee tip. In restaurants, will get more than your share
temple or monastery, walk check the bill before you decide of harassment from beggars at
around in a clockwise direction. on the tip, since the larger ones city traffic lights, markets and
You may be offered prasad usually include a service outside places of worship.
(sacred food) in most temples charge. If not, ten per cent of Beggars can be extremely
and gurdwaras; this must the total amount is usually fine. persistent. Although it is very
be taken only in the right hand. Tipping taxi or auto-rickshaw difficult to refuse, visitors who
The segregation of men and drivers is optional, and not give money to one will soon
women is common. generally expected. If you hire find themselves surrounded by
In Hindu temples, it is usual a car with a driver, however, a throng. Be especially careful
for devotees and visitors to offer you are expected to give him of being pickpocketed in the
flowers and incense. Do not sit a baksheesh. The same goes confusion. The best strategy is
on or lean against temple walls for hairdressers, masseurs to ignore them, and walk on
or shrines. Even those in ruins, or anyone offering you a until they leave you alone. If
as well as simple roadside graves, personal service. necessary, complain to a nearby
are considered holy. Some policeman. If you do wish to
Hindu temples, (especially in help monetarily, the staff at your
Kerala and a few in Odisha) are Smoking and Alcohol hotel will be able to suggest
out of bounds for non-Hindus. If In 2008, the Indian government deserving charities to whom
you are barred from entering, do imposed a countrywide ban on donations can be made.
not take offence. Avoid entering
a mosque during Friday prayers,
and men should stay away from
the women’s enclosure.
Bargaining
Bargaining is a way of life
in India. Exchanges can be
passionate, but one need not
be aggressive. Firmly state what
you would like to pay and walk
away if the shopkeeper does
not agree. If you are buying in
bulk, you may ask for an extra
discount. The prices in larger
shops and government emporia
are usually fixed (see p720). Hindu pilgrims outside a temple in Odisha




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740  SUR VIV AL GUIDE

Personal Security and Health

Each state in India has its own police force, which is run from
local police stations (thanas). If you need to report a crime,
such as theft, to the police, try to do so within 24 hours of
the incident. Although Indian police are generally helpful, the
system itself is extremely bureaucratic and prone to
corruption, so it is always best to contact your embassy or
consular office for help and advice in the first instance. For
a trouble-free visit, a few simple precautions are necessary.
Protect your valuables and important documents at all
times, stay and eat in places that look clean, and drink only
bottled mineral water. If you require quick medical attention, Policeman in uniform directing traffic
it is better to opt for a private clinic rather than one of the in Kolkata
many government-run hospitals.
throughout India, especially at
airports and railway stations.
General Precautions idea to let your hotel know Bag-and body-searches are
Travelling in India is relatively where you are going and carry usual when entering cinemas
safe for tourists. Take simple photocopies of important and public auditoria. Never pick
safety measures, such as documents. Do not stray into up unattended baggage, and
wearing a money belt under deserted areas alone, especially inform the police immediately if
your shirt for cash and at night, and avoid hitchhiking. you notice anything suspicious.
important documents, such
as passports and visas. Protect
your camera and phone and Danger Areas Narcotics
avoid wearing jewellery or The border areas are high- Since the 1960s, India has
carrying large amounts of cash security zones, so when been part of the “hippy trail”,
in crowded areas. Valuables trekking or travelling in the with marijuana easily available.
can be kept in a hotel safe, Himalayan regions make sure With the arrival of Ecstasy and
but do insist on a receipt. you have an Inner Line Permit other harder drugs in the 1990s,
While shopping, ensure that (see pp734–5). The state of particularly in places such as
shopkeepers make out a bill Jammu and Kashmir has had Goa, the law has tightened
and process your credit or long-standing militant activity consider ably. Possession,
debit card in front of you. There and much of the state is trafficking and use of narcotics
have been incidents of tourists unsafe for visitors (see p158). (including marijuana) is now
being drugged and robbed, Before travelling to such areas, banned by law and punishable
especially on trains, so never it is a good idea to contact the by tough jail sentences. Drug
accept food or drink from state tourism department in convictions lead to a minimum
strangers. Padlock your Patna (see p219) for up-to-date sentence of ten years without
luggage to the chain beneath infor mation on the law and parole or remission. Never
your seat during train journeys. order situation. In restricted carry anything for strangers
It is a good areas always travel in or check in their luggage for
groups rather than them at airports. A Narcotic
on your own. Drugs and Psychotropic
Communal unrest Substances Court has been
and even riots are established specifically to try
usually confined drug-related offences.
to the crowded
older parts of cities. Women Travellers
A police jeep It is best to avoid these
areas if the political situation is Women, both Indian and
uneasy, or during important foreign, face a certain amount
religious festivals, which of unwanted male attention,
attract large crowds. even though “eve-teasing” is
today a punishable offence.
When women are travelling
Security
alone, the problems they
Since the attack might encounter range from
on Mumbai on being stared at to more active
26 November 2008, harassment such as suggestive
A hospital ambulance security has been tightened comments and body contact in



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PR A C TIC AL INFORM A TION  741


buses and crowded places. Take bigger cities, washrooms can DIRECTORY
your cue from Indian women be accessed at the many malls,
who continue with their restaurants and cafés. It is All India
independent lifestyles despite always a good idea to carry Emergency Number
such annoyances. Ignore men your own toilet paper with Tel 112.
lounging at street corners, you, just in case. Carry a hand
and, if you find their attention sanitizer with you at all times. Hospitals and
offensive, approach the nearest Medical Facilities
policeman. Avoid walking
about alone in desolate places Hospitals and Chennai
Medical Facilities
and in the rougher parts of cities. Apollo Hospitals,
When hiring a car or Do take out comprehensive 21 Greams Lane, Off Greams Rd.
taxi, ask the hotel to book it medical insurance before Tel (044) 6060 1066.
for you and note the licence arriving in India. MASTA Delhi
plate number. Hitchhiking (Medical Advisory Service for Indraprastha Apollo,
is not advis able under Travellers Abroad) in the UK Sarita Vihar, Mathura Rd.
any circumstances. can give a health update for Tel (011) 2987 1090.
When queuing for train travellers to India. The larger ∑ apollohospitals.com
or cinema tickets, women are cities have reasonably good
advised to use the government and Indian Red Cross Society
“ladies’ lines”, which private hospitals 1 Red Cross Rd.
are usually much and nursing homes, Tel (011) 2371 6441.
shorter. On many with 24-hour ∑ indianredcross.org
buses and on some services equipped Kolkata
trains there are to handle casualty Medica Superspecialty Hospital,
“ladies only” seats and emergency 127, EM Bypass, Mukundapur.
or compartments cases. It is always Tel (033) 6652 0000.
to make the journey best to contact
that much safer. your embassy MASTA (UK)
for their list of Tel + 44 (0) 113 238 7500.
approved hospitals, ∑ masta.org
Legal clinics, doctors and
Assistance A local pharmacy or dentists. They may Mumbai
Breach Candy Hospital, 60
Legal problems are chemist shop also be able to advise Bhulabhai Desai Rd.
rare for travellers, but on sourcing safe, Tel (022) 2366 7788.
if you do find yourself in a legal screened blood for transfusions.
tangle, contact your embassy If in doubt, the local Indian Red Embassies
immed iately. Always carry Cross Society is the safest
your passport and keep a option for blood transfusion. Australia
photocopy handy. Do not 1/50 G Shantipath, New Delhi.
hand over your travel papers Tel (011) 4139 9900.
to anyone until your embassy Pharmacies ∑ indiaembassy.gov.au
has been informed. Some Most big markets, in all cities Canada
insurance policies also cover and major towns, have well- 7/8 Shantipath, New Delhi.
legal costs for emergencies such stocked pharmacies (or Tel (011) 4178 2000.
as accidents. chemist shops, as they are ∑ canadainternational. gc.ca/
known in India). They stock india
toiletries, women’s sanitary
Public Toilets products, baby food and Ireland
Wayside public toilets have disposable nappies. Pharmacists C-17, Malcha Marg, Block C,
poor hygiene and are best can also suggest simple and Diplomatic Enclave, New Delhi.
avoided. However, although quick remedies. Tel (011) 4940 3200.
few in number, those known For special medi cation, ∑ irelandinindia.com
as “Sulabh Shauchalayas”, located it is advisable to carry a United Kingdom
on city roads, are regarded pre scription, or show the Shantipath, New Delhi.
as a great civic invention. They pack aging with the generic Tel (011) 2419 2100.
are easy to spot, clean and name, if the brand is unfam iliar, ∑ gov.uk/government/
charge a nominal fee for use. so that the pharmacist can world/india
They are, however, of the Indian suggest a suitable alter native.
“squatting” variety and can be Antibiotics are sold only by USA
difficult to use, if you are not prescription. Most pharmacies Shantipath, New Delhi.
used to them. Some hotels are open between 9am and Tel (011) 2419 8000.
allow non-residents to use 7:30pm. Most hospitals also ∑ newdelhi.usembassy.gov
their toilets. In towns and have 24-hour pharmacies.




740-741_EW_India.indd 741 26/04/17 11:56 am

742  SUR VIV AL GUIDE

Heat and Humidity First-Aid Kit water of well-known brands,
Northern, central and western A basic first-aid kit for travelling such as Evian or Himalayan, if
India are scorchingly hot (see in India should include all available. Most international
pp42–3) during the summer personal medi cation, aspirin brands of carbonated drinks
(Apr–Jun). The east and the or painkillers for fevers and are widely available, and fresh
south are not as hot but can minor aches and pains, tablets coconut water is also safe.
get oppressively humid for nausea, antiseptic and Although street food often looks
during the monsoon. calamine lotion for cuts and tempting, it is safer to avoid
Take things easy for a few days bites, an anti-fungal ointment, it, unless it is hot and freshly
to get acclimatized. To prevent plaster and crêpe bandages, cooked right in front of you.
dehydration, drink plenty a pair of scissors, insect A good pharmacist can
of fluids and add an repellent and tweezers. suggest standard diarrhoea
extra pinch of salt to Your first aid kit medication, though if the attack
the food. It is wise should also have is severe, it is best to consult a
to stay indoors anti-histamines doctor. Also, take a course of
during the hottest for allergies, anti- oral rehydrating salts (ORS),
part of the day during diarrhoea tablets, which are commercially available
peak summer, when water-purification under the popular Indian brand
temperatures can reach tablets, disposable syringes names of Electral or Electrobion.
upto 50⁰C, in certain parts and a thermometer. Note An effective home-made
of northern India. If you are Hand fan that most of these items remedy is half a teaspoon of
outdoors, wear a wide- are also available at Indian salt and three teaspoons
brimmed hat and sunglasses, pharmacies. These stock effective of sugar in boiled water.
and use sunscreen to protect herbal remedies as well; only
your skin. Prolonged exposure buy brands that have been
to the sun can cause heat stroke, recommended by a reliable Food and Water-
borne Diseases
a serious condition with high practitioner or pharmacist.
body temperature, severe Visitors to India must guard
headaches and disorientation. against dysentery. Bacillary
Prickly heat powder and anti- Stomach Upsets dysentery lasts about a week
and Diarrhoea
fungal ointments are available and is accompanied by severe
at most pharmacies. The best Diarrhoea, usually caused by stomach pains, vomiting and
option is to wear light, loose- a change of diet, water and fever, while amoebic dysentery
fitting cotton clothing and climate, is common among has similar symptoms but
open sandals. visitors. Spicy Indian food often takes longer to manifest. If left
In winter (Oct–Feb), cities leads to digestive disorders, in untreated, this can become
have a lot of smog, as the which case it is best to eat plain, chronic. The same is true of
pollution in the air tends to boiled food until the attack giardiasis, a type of diarrhoea
settle. This aggravates chest subsides. Most importantly, drink caused by contaminated water.
infections, and asthmatic plenty of liquids to keep well Vaccination against hepatitis A
travellers should always carry hydrated. Avoid raw salad, cut is advisable before travelling
their own medication, although fruit, cold cuts, fresh juice and to India. The symptoms of this
inhalers are readily available yoghurt. Instead of tap water, unpleasant disease include fever,
on prescription. opt for bottles of sealed mineral fatigue, severe chills and
jaundice. The only treatment is
rest and a strictly controlled diet.
Other waterborne diseases such
as cholera (prevalent in flood-hit
areas) and typhoid can also be
prevented with vaccines.
Intestinal worms, common
in most tropical areas, include
tapeworms, which are found in
under-cooked meats and green
leafy vegetables. Others, such as
hookworms, can be contracted
by walking barefoot on
contaminated soil. Ensure that
all food is well cooked and
always wear sturdy shoes in
remote or waterlogged areas.
A course of medication can
be taken for worm infestation,
Green coconut-water, good for soothing an upset stomach which normally does not recur.




742-743_EW_India.indd 742 26/04/17 11:56 am

PR A C TIC AL INFORM A TION  743

Sexually Transmitted and summer and monsoon to drop off is to sprinkle them
Other Infectious Diseases
(Jul–Sep). The parasite is carried with salt, or touch them with
Awareness of sexually by mosquitoes, and symptoms a lighted cigarette. Clean the
transmitted diseases such as include shivering followed bite and apply an antiseptic.
HIV, which causes Acquired by high fever and sweating. Snake bites are rare, but
Immune Deficiency Syndrome Seek medical help immediately. if you are bitten, tie a tight
(AIDS), is high in India. For blood You should take a preventive crêpe bandage or tourniquet
transfusions it is best to contact course of anti-malarial drugs above the bite to prevent the
the Indian Red Cross Society before, during and after blood flowing. Keep the limb
(see p741). Hepatitis B is also your trip. For information immobile, note the time of
transmitted through infected on medication, call a travel the bite, and seek immediate
blood, sexual contact, clinic or MASTA (see p741). medical help. Scorpion stings
unsterilized needles, tattoos and Another serious mosquito- can also be serious, and
shaves from roadside barbers. borne disease is the victim can
However, it can be prevented dengue fever, with sometimes go
with a vaccine. Using a condom symptoms similar into shock. The
is essential for protection against to malaria, including treatment is
all sexually trans mitted diseases. severe pain in the similar to that
General precautions to follow joints and muscles, of snake bite.
are: before an inocu lation, buy and rashes. Seek If you are stung
a disposable syringe, or insist medical treatment by a jellyfish while
that a new syringe and needle if you think swimming,
is unwrapped in front of you. you might vinegar or lemon
Never have shaves from roadside be infected. juice, calamine
barbers and stay away from To guard lotion and
seedy-looking beauty parlours, against yourself Mosquito repellent coil and cream antihistamines
as you can pick up infections mosquito bites, help reduce the
during manicures and pedicures. use mosquito-repellent pain and swelling. Clean the
Any procedure using needles, devices and a net over the area with an antiseptic lotion.
such as tattooing and ear- bed while sleeping. If you are
piercing, is best avoided in outdoors in the evenings, wear
places where hygiene is dubious. shoes and clothes that cover Swine Flu
Vaccination against tetanus the arms and legs, and rub Swine flu is an infection caused
is essential when travelling. mosquito-repellent cream by any one of several types of
Tuberculosis (TB), though on exposed skin. As a rule, swine influenza virus, the most
common in India, is not a carry mosquito-repellent common one being H1N1. The
great risk for visitors. Meningitis, cream with you at all times. virus is highly cont agious. If
spread through droplet there is an outbreak of swine flu,
infection, is a more real threat – and you have flu-like symptoms,
it needs immediate medical Cuts and Bites you should consult a doctor.
attention. Symptoms include Insect bites are common,
fever, stiff neck and headache. especially in areas prone Altitude Sickness
to heavy rainfall, such as the
coasts, the Nilgiri Hills, parts A lack of sufficient oxygen at
Rabies of Kerala and the northeastern altitudes higher than 2,500 m
Animal bites, especially from states. To avoid insect and ant (8,202 ft) can cause Acute
dogs and monkeys, can cause bites, it is best not to sleep Mountain Sickness (AMS);
rabies. Clean the bite with on the ground. Ticks, lice and symptoms are dizziness, severe
an antiseptic solution and mites are another problem, headaches and loss of appetite.
seek medical help at once, as since they are carriers of These often subside within a day
treatment involves a course typhus and Lyme’s disease. Use or two, but if they persist, seek
of injections, even if you have insect repellents, avoid staying medical attention at once.
been bitten by a pet dog. There in places with poor hygiene Though some doctors
is a vaccination that partially and, if bitten, apply antiseptic recommend Acetazolamide
protects against rabies, but this cream. An antihistamine is the (Diamox) and dexamethasone,
is only advised if you are going best antidote if you get stung they are controversial drugs
to high-risk areas. You should by a wasp or bee. Rainforests and should not be used.
only take this vaccine if your are usually infested with A few tips to avoid AMS are:
doctor advises it. blood-sucking leeches that ascend slowly; once above
attach themselves to the 3,000 m (9,843 ft), do not
skin. Never try and pull them increase camping altitude by
Insect-borne Diseases
off, since their heads remain more than 300 m (984 ft) a
Malaria is prevalent in most embedded in the skin. A very day; drink plenty of fluids; and
parts of India during the effective way of getting them avoid alcohol and sedatives.



742-743_EW_India.indd 743 26/04/17 11:56 am

744  SUR VIV AL GUIDE

Banking and Currency India, operating through
literally thousands of touts,
India provides a range of accessible banking facilities and offers much better rates than
money-exchange services, with English-speaking staff at the the official ones, but it is safer
counters. These facilities are available in all the larger cities, to go to authorized dealers.
at international airports, major banks and hotels, travel
agencies and registered moneychangers. Touts might offer Traveller’s Cheques
enticing exchange rates, but they are illegal operators and Traveller’s cheques, once
should be avoided. Credit and debit cards are the safest way considered convenient,
to carry money, but always keep some cash for telephones, have been replaced by forex
tips, transport and purchases, especially when travelling in services. These are provided by
all leading banks. Visitors can
smaller towns or off the beaten track, where cards are not also purchase forex travel cards.
always accepted.
Debit and Credit Cards
Banks and Banking Hours response to public protests Debit and Credit cards are
Most international banks now or strikes. now widely accepted in most
have branches in all the cities big hotels, restaurants and
across the country. The Indian department stores. The most
bank with the largest distribution Changing Money common are VISA, MasterCard,
network is the State Bank of India, In India, banks offer the Diner’s Club and American
though there are other major best exchange rates, though Express. Air and rail tickets can
banks with a national presence most good hotels also change also be paid for by debit and
such as ICICI and HDFC. The money for resident guests. credit card, and cash advances
services they offer include Thomas Cook is a reliable can be made at the parent
international money transfers. foreign exchange broker, and bank. For example, ICICI account
Banking hours are between there are numerous other holders can directly access their
10am–4pm (Mon–Fri), while the brokers who also change account with their ICICI card.
second and fourth Saturday of money at the official rates for However, many smaller
the month are holidays. Arrive major international currencies. establishments, even in the
early to avoid the long queues. Rates of exchange are subject bigger cities, only accept cash.
Banks are closed on regional and to fluctuation, so check any Debit and credit card-related
national holidays (see p39) and national daily newspaper or fraud is on the increase, so keep
occasionally they shut down the Internet for the current your cards safe, and insist that
with out any notice at all in rate. The “blackmarket” in receipt vouchers are made out
DIRECTORY
State Bank Delhi Kolkata Thomas Cook
of India 1st Floor, 9-A, Phelps Bldg, 31 Shakespeare Sarani. C–35 Connaught Pl,
Connaught Pl, New Delhi. Tel (033) 2243 8585. New Delhi.
Chennai Tel (011) 3366 7777.
10/10, College Rd, Kolkata Mumbai Tel (011) 6627 1900.
Thousand Lights West. Rishikesh, 1/1, Ashutosh Mahatma Gandhi Rd, Fort. Dr Dadabhai Naoroji Rd,
Tel (080) 5609 9006. Chowdhury Avenue, Tel (1800) 103 4722. Fort, Mumbai.
Delhi Ballygunge. Tel (022) 6160 3333.
19B Shakespeare Sarani,
11 Sansad Marg. Tel (022) 6757 4314. Bureaux de 1st Floor, Kolkata.
Tel (09690) 313 148. Mumbai Change
9th Floor, South Towers, Tel (033) 6652 6231.
Kolkata ICICI Towers, Bandra Kurla American Express G-4, Eldorado Bldg
Middleton Row. Complex, Bandra (E). Barakhamba Rd, Delhi. No. 112, Nungambakkam
Tel (033) 2229 5811. Tel (022) 3366 7777. Tel (011) 2332 7602. High Road, Chennai.
Mumbai HSBC Oriental Bldg, 364 Tel (044) 6454 8689.
State Bank Bhavan, Dadabhai Naoroji Rd,
Madame Cama Rd. Chennai Mumbai.
Tel (022) 2202 5676. 30 Rajaji Salai. Tel (022) 6632 3000.
Tel (1860) 266 2667. BBD Bagh, Kolkata G.P.O,
ICICI Bank Kolkata. Tel (1800) 419
Delhi
Chennai 25, Birla Towers, Kasturba 5960.
New No. 298, Anna Salai. Gandhi Marg. 187 Anna Salai, Chennai.
Tel (044) 3344 3399. Tel (1860) 266 2667. Tel (1800) 419 5960.




744-745_EW_India.indd 744 05/05/17 3:11 pm

PR A C TIC AL INFORM A TION  745


in front of you. If your debit or Currency
credit card gets stolen or lost, The Indian rupee (₹) is divided
contact your bank helpline into 100 paisas. The most
immediately to cancel the card. commonly used coins are
1, 2, 5 and 10 rupee coins.
ATM Services Currency notes are available in
denominations of ₹5, 10, 20, 50,
Most foreign, and many 100, 500 and 2,000. Notes of
Indian, banks in large cities other denominations could
have 24-hour ATMs (automatic also be introduced by the end
teller machines). Instructions of 2017. Beware of accepting
are displayed in English, and torn or damaged notes, as
cash is dispensed in rupees. shops and even banks are often
Check with your bank at Customer using an ATM vestibule reluctant to accept or exchange
home which Indian banks them. Banks often give notes
will accept your ATM card, Hong Kong and Shanghai stapled together in large packs.
as not all machines are Bank (HSBC). Be vigilant while Ask them to remove the staples
compatible. Some ATMs will using ATM machines. Make for you, as you will find it
dispense cash against credit sure you are alone in the ATM difficult to do it yourself without
cards. Cards with a PLUS or vestibule and that your details tearing the notes. Foreign
CIRRUS symbol are accepted are not visible to anyone. nationals are not permitted to
at the following ATMs: Citibank, Avoid usage on noticing bring or take Indian currency
Standard Chartered, and anything suspicious. into or out of the country.
Bank Notes
All currency is minted by the Reserve Bank of
India. The notes have either Mahatma Gandhi
or the Ashoka lion symbol on one side.



10-rupee note



20-rupee note




50-rupee note


100-rupee note




500-rupee note


2,000-rupee note

Coins
Visitors should always
keep some loose
change handy. Some
older variations of
these silver coins are
still in circulation. 1 rupee ₹2 ₹5 ₹10




744-745_EW_India.indd 745 26/04/17 11:56 am

746  SUR VIV AL GUIDE

Communications

The Indian postal system is fairly efficient, with a wide
variety of options, from registered post to reliable
courier services, offered by post offices countrywide.
Telecommunications systems are sophisticated even in
smaller towns: all main hotels have business centres and
Wi-Fi (Wireless Fidelity), and most markets have shops
or booths (internet cafés) from where international calls
can be made, e-mails sent and the Internet accessed.
A range of English-language newspapers and magazines
are available, and foreign newspapers and magazines are
sold in bookshops, particularly in the main cities.

Postage stamps in 5-rupee denominations
International and Local increasing number of
Telephone Calls establishments have Wi-Fi, while Office for up to one month,
All major hotels offer subscriber privately operated Internet cafés and you will need some form
trunk dialling (STD) for calls with the latest facilities can be of identification – preferably
within India, and international found in markets and shopping your passport – to retrieve your
subscriber dialling (ISD) for areas in most large cities. Even mail. The same service is also
international calls. Calls made smaller towns usually have provided by Foreign Post
from STD/ISD booths, identified enterprising hole-in-the-wall Offices in the four main cities,
by their yellow signage, are Internet outlets. All outlets have as well as American Express in
much cheaper than at hotels. fixed hourly or half-hourly rates. most major cities. Envelopes
Rates are fixed for interna tional should be addressed with
and STD calls. the surname underlined
Bharat Sanchar Nigam Ltd Postal Services and in capitals, c/o Poste
(BSNL) offers a pre-paid card There are many different Restante, followed by the
for local, STD and ISD calls. services offered by India name and address of
It can be used from all BSNL Post – general or the post office. Parcels
landlines and mobile phones. registered mail, parcel sent overseas cannot
WhatsApp messaging service post, poste restante, and exceed 20 kg (44 lb).
is also widely used. a special courier service Check the details at the
known as EMS-Speed Post. post office. Book Post is
Letterboxes are a cheaper option for
Mobile Phones colour coded: local documents, books and
Mobile phones can easily be letters are green; A typical post box printed material. The
bought from service counters at metropolitan and other maximum weight is
international airports, as well as cities, as well as international 5 kg (11 pounds). Some hotels
at registered offices. In Delhi and mail are red; and the Quick Mail may offer to post letters and
Mumbai, Airtel and Vodafone Service (QMS) is yellow. Post parcels. Always be sure to
are the main service networks, offices are open Monday to stick stamps down and post
while in Kolkata, the networks Friday between 10am and postcards and letters yourself.
are provided by BSNL, Airtel, 5pm, and on Saturdays until
Idea and Vodafone. International noon. Some services, such as Addresses
calling cards are offered by registered mail, close earlier.
companies such as Reliance Letters sent poste restante In India, addresses always begin
International Card and Matrix are held at the General Post with the house number, followed
International Card. These provide by the name of the street, and
calling and data facilities, are finally, the city and its pin code.
value for money and can easily The newer residential localities
be bought at the airport. are divided into blocks, and the
Passports can be used as block number usually appears
identity proofs for purchasing with the house number.
the cards. Therefore, B4/88 Safdarjung
Enclave would be: house
number 88 in the B4 block
Internet of Safdarjung Enclave Colony.
The Internet is widely used Each state and city has its
in India. Most large hotels offer own variations, which can be
web access to guests and an Internet café, Bengaluru confusing and hard to decipher,




746-747_EW_India.indd 746 05/05/17 3:11 pm

PR A C TIC AL INFORM A TION  747


especially if trying to locate a but you will be doing so at DIRECTORY
house number. Often there your own risk, except for the
may not even be a road sign. If government emporia and Bharat Sanchar Nigam Ltd
you are lost, a passer by should well-known establishments. Tel 1800 345 1500.
always help, but the best bet is Foreign Post Office
to get directions from a taxi or Newspapers and Kotla Marg, Near ITO, Delhi.
rickshaw driver or use Google Tel (011) 2323 3314. Ballard
Maps on your mobile phone. Magazines Estate, Mumbai.
India’s leading national English Tel (022) 2261 1791. 12, BBD
language newspapers include Bagh, Kolkata.
Courier Services The Times of India, Hindustan Tel (1800) 011 2011. Mooker
Courier services are available Times, The Indian Express, Nallamuthu St, Chennai.
across the country, even The Hindu and The Asian Age. Tel (044) 2524 0968.
In the east, The Statesman General Post Offices
and The Telegraph are widely Gol Dak Khana, Ashok Rd, Delhi.
read. There are other regional Tel (011) 2374 3602. Chhatrapati
newspapers as well that Shivaji Terminus Area, Fort,
provide local news. Many Mumbai. Tel (022) 2262 0693.
international newspapers, 68 Jessore Rd, Diamond City
such as the International North, 1st floor, Kolkata.
Herald Tribune and the Financial Tel (033) 2210 5150. Chennai
Times, are available alongside GPO, Chennai.
Indian weekly news magazines, Tel (1800) 112 011.
including India Today and UPS Courier Service
Outlook. Time and Newsweek Tel (011) 4612 6201, Delhi.
are available in large cities. Tel (022) 6520 2888, Mumbai.
For local news and cultural Tel (033) 4023 3800, Kolkata.
events, the city sections of Tel (044) 4502 7100, Chennai.
the newspapers give ∑ ups.com
reasonable coverage. Federal Express
Courier service outlet Tel 1800 419 4343.
∑ fedex.com
Television and Radio
in rural and remote areas. DHL Worldwide Express
While it is better to ship The introduction of Direct Tel (080) 0200 1345, Delhi.
larger items such as furniture to Home (DTH) in India has Tel (022) 2409 0924, Mumbai.
by regular land, sea or air made television watching a Tel (033) 4006 9666, Kolkata.
cargo, letters, documents or whole new experience, with Tel (044) 2822 2126, Chennai.
smaller parcels are best sent a plethora of Indian and ∑ dhl.co.in
through a courier agency, international channels. The DTDC
even though it may be more prime DTH operators are Tata Tel (330) 004 444.
expensive. United Parcel Sky and Dish TV. Cable TV ∑ dtdc.in
Service (UPS), Federal Express is also available everywhere,
TNT and DHL Worldwide for international channels,
Express are international such as the BBC World Service, the main music channels,
courier agencies, with a Discovery, CNN, National with VH1 being the leading
widespread network all over Geographic and the Hong international music channel.
India and the world. DTDC Kong-based Star network. The majority of Indian TV
is an established domestic Star Sports and TEN Sports channels show popular Hindi
courier service. Shops offer are exclusive sports channels, films or song-and-dance
to send purchases by courier, and Channel V and MTV are sequences; there are many
regional Indian-language
channels as well. General
Useful Dialling Codes and Numbers entertainment channels
• To make an inter-city call, • Country codes: UK 44; France (GEC) play serials, also
dial the STD code of that 33; USA & Canada 1; Australia known as daily soaps, and
city and the local number. 61; Ireland 353; New Zealand reality shows.
For Delhi, dial 011; Mumbai, 64; South Africa 27; Japan 81. India also has a wide radio
022; Kolkata, 033; and • Dial 197 to obtain a phone network, with programmes
Chennai, 044. number in Delhi, Mumbai, in English and local languages.
• To make an international Kolkata and Chennai. It is still the best form of
call (ISD), dial 00, the country communication, especially
code, area code and the in the rural areas. TV listings
local number. and reviews can be found in
all major daily newspapers.




746-747_EW_India.indd 747 26/04/17 11:56 am

748  SUR VIV AL GUIDE

TRAVEL INFORMATION

Most international visitors to India arrive detours that may test your patience.
by air, though road and ferry links also The state-run Air India has the widest
connect India and her neighbours, such network of air routes. Private airlines,
as Pakistan, Bangladesh, Nepal and Sri such as Kingfisher, Indigo and Jet Airways,
Lanka. Travelling within the country is also cover a number of cities and offer
possible by air, train, road and, in some excellent services. Indian Railways is the
places, either ferry or boat. Even remote world’s largest network, and travelling
regions are accessible. However, whatever first class is a good way to see the country.
your mode of transport, you should be The long-distance air-conditioned luxury
prepared for delays and unexpected coach is another option.
Arriving by Air Bengaluru. In addition, Sri Lankan Air Fares
All major international airlines Airlines flies to Tiruchirapalli Air fares vary according to
fly to India, usually as stop- in Tamil Nadu and the airline and the season.
overs on air routes between Thiruvananthapuram in Kerala. It is best to book tickets well
the East and West. Air India in advance of the peak season
is India’s international carrier. International Flights (Oct–Mar). At this time of year,
North American and European flights to India are overbooked,
airlines such as British Airways, and Airports as Indian families settled abroad
Lufthansa, KLM/Royal Dutch, India’s four main international and students at universities
Air France and Swiss have airports are at Delhi, Mumbai, abroad make their annual
regular flights to either some Kolkata and Chennai. Other visit home.
or all of India’s four major cities – international airports offering
Delhi, Mumbai, Chennai and flights to select destinations
Kolkata. There are also are at Hyderabad (Kuwait, On Arrival
numerous connections to Muscat, Sharjah and Kuala Before landing, visitors must
the Far East and Australia, Lumpur), Bengaluru (Muscat, fill in a disembarkation form
offered by Thai Airways, Sharjah, Singapore, Kuala that has to be submitted
Singapore Airlines, Malaysian Lumpur, London, Frankfurt and along with their passport
Airlines, Japan Airlines, Cathay a few flights via Mumbai to Paris, at the immigration counter.
Pacific and Qantas. Flights to the Gulf and New York), Goa (UK International airports
destinations in the Gulf and and Germany), Ahmedabad offer a range of facilities that
Central Asia are offered by (UK and the US), and Kochi and include currency exchange
Emirates, Etihad, Sri Lankan Thiruvananthapuram (the Gulf, counters, left-luggage services,
Airlines and Gulf Air. Singapore, Sri Lanka and the air-conditioned visitors’
Virgin Atlantic currently flies Maldives). A limited number lounges, duty-free shops,
to Delhi and Mumbai. Kenya of international flights also restaurants, business centres
Airlines fly only to Mumbai. operate from Kozhikode, and rest rooms with access
Lufthansa flies to Bengaluru, Amritsar, Varanasi, Lucknow, for the disabled. In addition,
Mumbai, Delhi and other Guwahati, Tiruchirapalli, there are counters for pre-
destinations, while Emirates Jaipur and Agra. These are paid taxis, car rentals, mobile
flies to Hyderabad, Mumbai, designated “customs airports” phone shops, and international
Delhi and Kolkata, among and permit landing of charter calling-card providers. Travel
others; and Malaysian Airlines planes as well as certain agencies within the arrival
serves Hyderabad and international flights. area can help with tour
itineraries, hotel reservations
and onward bookings. There
is also a Tourism Department
information counter.

Customs
The green channel is for
those who do not have
dutiable goods, as listed in
the Immigration Certificate.
The Red Channel is for
passengers with any goods
Terminal 3 at Indira Gandhi International Airport, Delhi that are liable to customs




748-749_EW_India.indd 748 26/04/17 11:50 am
Eyewitness Travel LAYERS PRINTED:
Practical template “UK” LAYER
(Source v1.7)
Date 5th March 2013
Size 125mm x 217mm