(DK Eyewitness) Travel Guide - India

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Carnatic Music

The classical music of South India is known as Carnatic music. Though based
on the general concepts of raga (melody) and tala (rhythm) found in Hindustani
music (see pp32–3), Carnatic music differs in many respects. It is almost exclusively
devotional in character, uses different percussion and musical instruments, and
develops the melody in a more structured manner. It also lays more emphasis
on rhythm. Some of the greatest Carnatic music was composed between 1750
and 1850, by the musical trinity of Thyagaraja, Syama Sastri, and Muthuswami
Dikshitar, who, between them, wrote over 2,500 songs in Sanskrit and Telegu,
modifying and refining features that are now essential to the genre.

Accompanying Mridangam
Instruments (a two-
Traditional South headed drum)
Indian instruments
such as the veena, the
nadasvaram, the flute
and the thavil are used
for accompaniment,
along with Western Saraswati
instruments such as the veena
violin and saxophone. The violin, a bow- The ghatam, a mere
string instrument clay pot, can produce
of Western origin, fabulous rhythms in Flute
is played in a the hands of an
Bombay Jayashri is seated position. accomplished performer.
a leading vocalist.

Tanpura






Ghatam
Violin

Music festivals are often held in large cities, where concerts take place in
small auditoriums, called sabhas. Most performers are accompanied by a
violinist and two percussionists. A typical concert lasts for about three hours,
during which a series of songs, usually in Telugu, are sung. The lyrics are as
important as the melody, and many are devotional in nature.


The nadasvaram,
which is a wind
instrument, is a
must at temple
festivals, weddings
and auspicious
occasions. The
thavil (drum) player
performs complex
rythmic improvisations The veena, which resembles the more
to accompany widely seen sitar, is a beautifully hand-
the melody. crafted string instrument.





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e Thanjavur

The city of Thanjavur, or Tanjore, lies in the fertile Kaveri Delta,
a region often referred to as the “rice bowl of Tamil Nadu”. For
nearly a thousand years, this great town dominated the political
history of the region as the capital of three powerful dynasties –
the Cholas (9th–13th centuries), the Nayakas (1535–1676)
and the Marathas (1676–1855). The magnificent Brihadishvara
Temple (see pp602–603) is the most important Chola monument,
while the Royal Palace dates to the Nayaka and Maratha periods.
Today, Thanjavur’s culture extends beyond temples and palaces,
to encompass classical music and dance. It is also a flourishing
centre for bronze sculpture and painting.

T Shivaganga Fort P Royal Palace Seven-storeyed observation tower of the
Off Hospital Rd. Open daily. East Main Rd. Open daily. & Royal Palace, Thanjavur
The quadrangular Shivaganga ^ Extra charges for phtography.
Fort, southwest of the old city, Resembling the shape of a residence of the erstwhile royal
was built by the Nayaka ruler, flying eagle, this palace was built family, and the Puja Mahal.
Sevappa Nayaka, in the mid-16th originally by the Nayaka rulers The Rajaraja Museum and Art
century. Its battlemented stone as their royal residence, and was Gallery, in the Nayaka Durbar
walls, which enclose an area subsequently remodelled by Hall, was established in 1951 and
of 14 ha (35 acres), are the Marathas. A large has an impressive collection of
surrounded by quadrangular courtyard bronze and stone idols dating
a partly rock-cut leads into the palace from the 7th to the 20th
moat. The square complex, at one centuries. Particularly noteworthy
Shivaganga Tank in end of which is a are the images of Shiva, such as
the fort was exca- pyramidal, temple- the Kalyanasundaramurti, which
vated by Rajaraja I, like tower. Outside depicts the wedding of Shiva
and later reno vated the palace complex and Parvati (see p570), and the
to provide drinking stands the seven- Bhikshatanamurti, which shows
water for the city. Maratha ruler Serfoji II storeyed, arcaded Shiva as a wandering mendicant,
The fort also (r.1777–1832) observation tower, carrying a begging bowl and
contains the great although now accompanied by a dog.
Brihadishvara Temple, without its capping pavilion. Next to the Rajaraja Museum
Schwartz Church, and a The splendid Maratha Durbar is the Saraswati Mahal Library,
public amusement park. Hall, built by Shahji II in 1684, has constructed by the Maratha
elaborately painted and decorated rulers. This is one of the most
 Brihadishvara Temple pillars, walls and ceiling. A wooden important reference libraries
See pp602–603. canopy embellished with glittering in India, with a fine collection
glass pieces and supported by of rare palm-leaf manuscripts
R Schwartz Church four wooden pillars stands above and books collected by the
Off West Main Rd. Open daily. a green granite slab, on which versatile and scholarly Serfoji II.
The 18th-century Christ Church the royal Maratha throne once An adjoining Museum displays
or Schwartz Church, a legacy of stood. The other buildings include some of these valuable works.
Thanjavur’s colonial past, stands the Sadir Mahal, which is still the The Royal Museum occupies
to the east of the Shivaganga
Tank. This church was founded
by the Danish missionary,
Reverend Frederik Christian
Schwartz, in 1779. When
Schwartz died in 1798, the
enlightened Maratha ruler,
Serfoji II, donated a striking
marble tablet to the church. This
tablet, made by John Flaxman,
has been placed at the western
end of the church. It depicts the
dying missionary blessing his
royal patron, surrounded by
min isters and pupils from the
school that he established. Mural at the entrance of Saraswati Mahal, Royal Palace, Thanjavur
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp702–703 and pp717–18


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part of the private quarters of E Saraswati Mahal Library VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
the Maratha Palace, and exhibits Open to public.
the personal collection of Serfoji II. Museum: Closed Wed. Practical Information
Nearby is the Sangeeta Mahal E Royal Museum Thanjavur district. 350 km
(Music Hall), built by the Open daily. & (218 miles) SW of Chennai.
Nayakas, and specially designed * 215,800.
with acoustic features for Environs n Hotel Tamil Nadu
musical gatherings. Lying 55 km (34 miles) east of Complex, (04362) 231 325.
( Mon–Sat. _ Rajaraja Chola’s
Thanjavur, Thiruvarur is famous
E Rajaraja Museum and for its Thyagaraja Temple Birth Anniversary (Oct).
Art Gallery dedicated to the Somaskanda Transport
Tel (04362) 239 823. Open daily. form of Shiva (see p582). The £ @
Closed Sun & public hols. & temple has four gopuras. Its
ceiling is covered with 17th-
century paintings of scenes
from the Shiva legend.
Thanjavur Paintings
A distinctive school of painting
emerged during the rule of the
Marathas, patronized by Serfoji II.
This highly ornamental style was
characterized by vibrant colours as
well as decoration with gold leaf and
precious and semiprecious stones. The
themes are mostly religious, and the
symbolic colour palette of red, black,
blue and white depicts each deity in
a specific colour. The subjects usually
have rotund bodies and almond-
shaped eyes. A favourite image is Baby Krishna with his
Vithoba fresco in the Art Gallery, Royal Krishna portrayed as a chubby infant. mother, Yashodhara
Palace, Thanjavur

Thanjavur City Centre N O R T H R E H A N I S T R E E T
1 Shivaganga Fort
2 Brihadishvara Temple
3 Schwartz Church
Food
4 Royal Palace N O R T H M A I N S T R E E T M A R K E T
Market
D KULAM RD


E A S T
Royal Palace
Aiyan Tank Compound
Entrance M A I N
Rajaraja Museum &
Art Gallery R O A D
Saraswati Mahal
Library & Museums S T R E E T
W E S T
W E S T
M A I N
Samanthaan
Tank
S O U T H M A I N S T R E E T R O A D
0 metres 250
R A M PA R T
S T R E E T
0 yards 250 SOUTH RAMPART STR E ET Thiruvaiyaru M A R K E T
City Bus Stand
Bus Stand
Schwartz
Church HOSPITAL ROAD
Shivaganga
Tank Shivaganga
Fort GANDHIJI ROAD
Brihadishvara ABRAHAM PANDITHER RD
Temple
Grand Anic u t Canal GRAND ANICUT CANAL RD
K U T C H E R Y R D
Railway Station
200 m (220 yards)
THIRUVARUR
For keys to symbols see back flap
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Thanjavur: Brihadishvara Temple

This monumental granite temple, the finest example
of Chola architecture, is now a UNESCO World Heritage
Site. Completed in AD 1010 and dedicated to Shiva, it
was built by Rajaraja Chola I (see pp50–51) as a symbol
of the unrivalled power and might of the Cholas.
The temple basement is covered with inscriptions
that give details of the temple’s administration and
revenue, and provide valuable historical information
on Chola society and government.
















. Vimana
The 66-m (217-ft) high
pyramid-shaped vimana, over
the sanctum, is a 13-storeyed
structure. Its gilded finial was
presented by the king.









. Dvarapala
Two gigantic
dvarapalas, or
doorkeepers, at the
eastern entrance,
direct devotees to the
sanctum with their
pointed fingers.
KEY
1 Linga shrine
2 The passageway is
circumambulatory and built on two
levels, owing to the colossal height Frescoes
of the 4-m (13-ft) linga. Chola frescoes adorn
the passage around
3 An octagonal cupola, beautifully the sanctum. They were
carved out of a massive block of discovered when the
granite weighing 80 tonnes, 17-century Maratha
crowns the vimana. paintings covering them
began to disintegrate.
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp702–703 and pp717–18


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VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
Practical Information
Thanjavur. W of bus stand
Tel (04362) 274 476.
Open daily. For permission to visit
inner chambers of the sanctum
and the top floors, contact the
temple, or Thanjavur tourist office.
Archaeological Museum:
Open daily. =




Atmospheric Temple Courtyard
The Brihadishvara Temple stands in
the middle of a rectangular court,
surrounded by subsidiary shrines. On
the southern side of the courtyard is an . Nandi Mandapa
Archaeological Museum, which displays, Carved out of a single block
among other things, photographs of of granite weighing 25
the temple before restoration. tonnes, this huge Nandi
figure is 6 m (20 ft) long, and
faces the inner sanctum.








Priests Outside
the Temple
Although under the
jurisdiction of the
Archaeological Survey
of India, the temple
is open for worship.






















Nandi Mandapa Shiva-Parvati
Granite divinities occupy the wall
niches of the sanctum.




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to the 18th and 19th centuries,
when the British constructed
the cantonment and numerous
civic buildings and churches.
Many of these buildings are
located around the large
Teppakulam Tank at the base
of the fort – a busy area
surrounded by fruit, vegetable
and flower markets.
Among the town’s earliest
churches are Christ Church
(1766), founded by Reverend
Frederick Christian Schwartz
Tiruchirapalli’s Rock Fort looming above the city (see p600), to the north of the
tank; the Neo-Gothic Cathedral
r Tiruchirapalli 16th and 17th centuries. of Our Lady of Lourdes (1840),
They also expanded the Shiva to the west of the tank; and the
Tiruchirapalli district. 60 km (37 miles)
W of Thanjavur. * 2,418,400. temple, where the god is Jesuit St Joseph’s College, also
~ 7 km (4 miles) S of town centre, worshipped as Thayumanavar to the west of the tank. In the
then bus or taxi. £ @ n Hotel (the “God who became a cantonment, which southwest
Tamil Nadu, 101 Williams Rd, Mother”). Legend says that of the fort, is the Church of
(0431) 241 4346. _ Teppakulam when a flash flood prevented St John (1816).
Float Festival (Mar). a mother from coming to her
pregnant daughter’s aid, Shiva T Rock Fort
Situated at the head of the assumed her form and helped Open daily. & Extra charges
fertile Kaveri Delta, this city is in the childbirth. Further up, on for photography.
named after the fierce three- the summit, is a small Ganesha
headed demon (tirusira) who Temple, from where there
attained salvation after being are spectacular views of the
slain by Shiva. The town’s history sacred island of Srirangam.
is interwoven with the political At the base of the southern
fortunes of the Pallavas, Cholas, rock face is the first of the two
Nayakas, and finally, the British, cave temples. The lower one
who shortened its name to dates to the 8th century, and
Trichy. Today, Tiruchirapalli is the upper one to the reign
Tamil Nadu’s second-largest city. of the great Pallava ruler,
Dominating the town is the Mahendra Varman (r.600–630).
massive Rock Fort, perched This contains one of the great
dramatically on a rocky outcrop wonders of Pallava art, the
that rises 83 m (272 ft) above Gangadhara Panel, depicting
the flat plains. This impregnable Shiva holding a lock of his
fortress was constructed by matted hair to receive the River
the Nayakas of neighbouring Ganga as she descends from
Madurai, who made Tiruchirapalli the heavens (see p167). Much Cathedral of Our Lady of Lourdes
their second capital during the of the present town dates at Tiruchirapalli
The Kaveri River
One of the nine sacred rivers of India, the Kaveri covers a length of
785 km (488 miles) from its source at Talakaveri in Karnataka (see p525)
to Poompuhar on the Bay of Bengal. Myths glorify the Kaveri as the
personification of a female deity (in some versions, Brahma’s daughter),
who erupted from the sage Agasthya’s kamandala (water pot). From the
early centuries of the Christian era, the Kaveri has been central to Tamil
culture, especially under the Cholas, who ruled the region between the
9th and 13th centuries. The great temple cities that developed along its
course became centres of religion, dance, music and the arts. Far-sighted
water-management schemes in the delta, instigated by the Cholas,
transformed the Thanjavur region into the “rice bowl” of Tamil Nadu,
and, even today, devotees offer rice to the river goddess on the 18th
day of the Tamil month Adi (July/August). Unfortunately, the river has
Shrine depicting the legend of now become the subject of a bitter dispute over water distribution
Goddess Kaveri between the Tamil Nadu and Karnataka governments.

For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp702–703 and pp717–18


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Environs first took place in 1371,
At Kallanai, 24 km (15 miles) after the original 10th-
northeast of Tiruchirapalli, is century temple was
a 300-m (984-ft) long earthen destroyed by the Delhi
dam across the Kaveri river, the Sultan, Alauddin Khilji
Grand Anicut. This formed part (see p52). Its present form,
of the huge hydraulic system however, includes
created by the Cholas (see pp50– extensions added in
51) to divert water from the river the 17th century by the
into a vast network of irrigation Nayaka rulers, whose
canals. The original no longer second capital was
exists, and the dam in operation in neighbouring
today was rebuilt by British Tiruchirapalli. The last
engineers in the 19th century. addition was in 1987,
Other places of interest are when the unfinished
the 7th-century Shiva temple at southern gateway was
Narthamalai, 17 km (11 miles) finally completed. A coracle ride on the Kaveri, Srirangam
to the south, and the 2nd- Dominated by 21
century BC Jain cave temples impressive gopuras (gateways), attacking fierce animals and
at Sittanavasal, located 58 km the complex has seven prakara yalis (mythical leonine beasts).
(36 miles) to the southeast. (boundary) walls defining its A small museum close by has
Faded paintings here portray seven enclosures. The outer a good collection of stone
dancing girls, and a lotus tank three comprise residences and bronze sculptures. The
with swans and fishes. for priests, hostels for core of the complex is
pilgrims, and small the sanctum, with its gold-
restaurants and shops plated vimana, where an
t Srirangam selling religious books, image of Vishnu as
pictures and sundry Ranganatha, reclining
Tiruchirapalli district. 9 km (6 miles) temple offerings. on the cosmic serpent,
N of Tiruchirapalli. @ _ Vaikuntha
Eka dashi (Dec/Jan), Chariot The sacred precinct Adisesha, is enshrined.
Festival (Jan). begins from the fourth This temple is also the
enclosure, beyond which place where the great
The sacred 3-km (2-mile) long non-Hindus are not 11th-century philosopher
island of Srirangam, formed by allowed. This is where the Ramanuja (see p526)
the Kaveri and Kollidam rivers, is temple’s most important developed the bhakti cult
one of the most revered pilgrimage shrines are located. of personal devotion
sites in South India. At its core Among these are the Horse, Sesha girirayar into a formalized
is the majestic Ranganatha spacious Thousand- Mandapa mode of worship.
Temple (see pp556–7). Dedicated Columned Mandapa, Today, a constant cycle
to Vishnu, this is one of the where images of Ranganatha of festivals glorifying Vishnu are
largest temple complexes in Tamil and his consort are enthroned cele brated throughout the year.
Nadu and covers an enormous and worshipped during one of East of the Ranganatha
area of 60 ha (148 acres). the temple’s many festivals, and Temple is the mid-17th-century
The complex as it exists today the magnificent Seshagirirayar Jambukeshvara Temple in the
has evolved over a period of four Mandapa, with its rearing stone village of Tiruvanaikka. The main
centuries. Extensive reconstruction horses with mounted warriors sanctum contains one of the
five elemental lingas (see p588),
representing Shiva as the
manifestation of water. Legend
says that the linga was created
by Shiva’s consort, Parvati, and in
homage to her, the priest wears
a sari when performing the puja.
Non-Hindus can view the outer
shrines in the complex, but
not the main sanctum.
 Sri Ranganatha Temple
Open daily. Tel (0431) 243 2246. &
for viewpoint on top. 8 Extra charges
for photography. Museum: Open daily.
 Jambukeshvara Temple
Open daily. & Extra charges
One of the impressive gateways at the Ranganatha Temple, Srirangam for photography.
Intricately carved pillars at the Minakshi Sundareshvara Temple, Madurai



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u Mudumalai
Wildlife Sanctuary
Nilgiris district. 64 km (40 miles) W of
Udhagamandalam. @ Theppakadu,
the main entry point. n Tourist
Office, Theppakadu, (0423) 244 3977.
For bookings contact Wildlife Warden’s
Office, Ooty, (0423) 244 5971.
Open daily (may be closed during
Feb–Mar). & 8 Jeeps available. 
Mudumalai, or “Ancient Hill
Range”, situated at the base
Yerikadu Lake, from which Yercaud derives its name of the Nilgiri Hills, is separated
from Karnataka’s Bandipur
y Yercaud entirely covered with National Park (see p524) by
plantations of coffee, tea, the Moyar river.
Salem district. 32 km (20 miles) NE
of Salem. £ Salem, then bus. @ jackfruit and plantains. This sanctuary is an
n Hotel Tamil Nadu, Yercaud Ghat The man-made Yerikadu important constituent of the
Rd, (04281) 223 334. _ Shevaroyan Lake and the Killiyur Falls are 5,500-sq km (2,124-sq mile)
Temple Festival (May). two of the area’s most scenic Nilgiri Biosphere Reserve of
spots, while Lady’s Seat, near the Western Ghats. Along
This attractive hill station, the lake, offers delightful views with adjacent Bandipur and
situated in the Shevaroy Hills, of the surrounding countryside. Nagarhole, it provides one of
was established in the early The town and its environs the most important refuges
1800s by the British, who have several apiaries that for the elephant and the Indian
introduced the coffee plant produce delicious honey. gaur in India. The park covers
here. Today, this is one of the The Horticultural Research 322 sq km (124 sq miles) of
state’s most productive areas, Station has an interesting undulating terrain, and rises
and its surrounding slopes are collection of rare plants. to 1,250 m (4,101 ft) at Moyar
i Tour of the Nilgiris 6 Pykara
Dams, fenced sholas,
The picturesque nila giri, or “Blue green meadows and
conical-shaped
Mountains”, at the junction of the Toda houses can
Eastern and Western Ghats, are so named be seen here.
because the shrub kurunji (Strobilanthes
kunthianus) turns the hills blue with its
blossoms every 12 years. Covered with
high-altitude grasslands and sholas Madhumalai
(montane evergreen forests), they
are of special interest to botanists
and entomologists. This tour offers
enchanting glimpses of lush green Jacaranda in full bloom in
valleys, hill stations and hamlets the Nilgiris Pykara
inhabited by tribal people. Reservoir
5 Avalanche
Tips for Drivers This natural paradise has dense
forests and a beautiful lake.
Length: 90 km (56 miles).
Getting around: Avalanche and
Pykara can only be reached from 0 km 3 Makurti
Ooty, as there are no road links Lake
from Coonoor. The route is well 0 miles 3
covered by public and private
buses. An exciting alternative is
the Nilgiri Mountain Railway, Key
which runs from Mettupalayam Tour route
to Ooty, via Coonoor (see p753).
Other roads

For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp702–703 and pp717–18


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Betta. The lowest point provides a habitat for a rich o Coimbatore
of the sanctuary is at the diversity of wildlife, including Coimbatore district. 502 km (312 miles)
picturesque Moyar Waterfalls. the Nilgiri tahr (see p23), SE of Chennai. * 924,000. ~ 10 km
Its topo graphy is as varied as sambar, tiger, leopard, spotted (6 miles) NE of city centre, then bus.
the vegetation, which ranges deer, flying squirrel, Malabar £ @ n Hotel Tamil Nadu, Dr
from dense deciduous forests civet and Nilgiri langur. Over Nanjappa Rd, (0422) 230 2177.
of teak, laurel and rosewood 120 species of birds, resident ( Mon–Sat. _ Thaipoosam (Jan/
in the west, to scrub jungle and migratory, can be seen Feb), Karthigai (Nov/Dec).
towards the east, interspersed here as well. These include
with grassland, swamps and the scops owl and the crested Tamil Nadu’s third-largest
bamboo brakes. The sanctuary hawk eagle. city, Coimbatore is a major
industrial centre and the state’s
commercial capital, with huge
Guardian Deities textile mills and engineering
Huge figures made of burnt clay can be seen on the outskirts units. It is also a convenient
of villages in the southern districts of base for visiting the Nilgiri hill
Tamil Nadu. They are worshipped as stations. The city has a reputed
the guardians of the villages. The most Agricultural College, and two
prominent folk deity is Ayyanar, also famous temples. The Perur
known as Ayyappa, the son of Shiva Temple on the Noyyal river and
and Vishnu. This mustachioed god, the popular Muruga Marutha­
with prominent eyes, wears short malai Temple, on top of a
trousers and carries a sword. His hillock, are dedicated to Lord
horse stands by his side, so that he
can ride through the night, keeping Shiva and his son, Murugan,
evil spirits at bay. Other deities are respectively. They are visited
Munisami, who holds a trident and by thousands of devotees
shield and rides a lion, and the black- during temple festivals.
hued Karuppusami, the nocturnal Guardian deities outside a The Siruvani Waterfalls are
avenger who punishes thieves. village shrine beautiful, and Siruvani water
famed for its purity and taste.

1 Ooty 2 Dodda Betta
Officially known as The highest peak
Udhagamandalam, this in the Nilgiris
Queen of Hill Stations was (2,623 m/8,606 ft)
originally inhabited by the has glorious views
Todas (see p611). The century- of the hills, valleys
old Nilgiri Mountain Railway and plateaux.
terminates here.

3 Kotagiri
Known for its salubrious
climate, this hill station is
Naduhatti situated in the shadow of
Dodda Betta Peak.







Mettupalayam


4 Coonoor
A pretty town surrounded by hills and
tea and coffee plantations, Coonoor
hosts an annual fruit-and-vegetable
show in May, at Sim’s Park.





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they created a sanatorium-
cum-retreat here. They
also established Kodai’s
Interna tional School in 1901.
This picturesque town is
today spread out around the
man-made, star-shaped Kodai
Lake, created by the dam built
by Sir Vere Henry Levinge in
1863. The 3-km (2-mile) long
trail around the lake makes for
a pleasant walk. On the shore
is a Boat House, built in 1910.
East of the lake is Bryant Park,
famous for its plant collection
(including over 740 varieties
Tree-lined avenue in Kodaikanal of roses) and its annual flower
show, held in May.
p Palani many of whom shave their Beyond the city centre are
heads as an expression of a number of scenic areas, such
Madurai district. 120 km (75 miles)
NW of Madurai. ~ Madurai, 119 km devotion. An electric cable car as Pillar Rocks, Silver Cascade
(74 miles) SE of town centre, then bus takes devotees up the 600 steps and Green Valley View (originally
or taxi. £ @ _ Thaipoosam (Jan/ to the hill shrine. known as Suicide Point), which
Feb), Karthigai (Nov/Dec). Palani is also a base for hikes offer enchanting picnic spots
in the surrounding hills. and views of the deep valley.
A major pilgrimage centre, Kodai also has many options
Palani is situated on the edge of for cycling, riding and long,
the great Vyapuri Tank. Its hilltop a Kodaikanal rambling walks. A trail following
Subrahmanyam Temple is the Madurai district. 120 km (75 miles) the hillside, called Coaker’s
most famous of the six abodes NW of Madurai. £ Palani, 65 km Walk, provides a panoramic
of Murugan, the son of Shiva, (40 miles) N of town centre, then view of the hill station. The
who is said to have come here bus or taxi. @ n Tamil Nadu walk ends at the Church of
disguised as a mendicant after Tourism, (04542) 241 675. ( Mon– St Peter, which was built in
quarrelling over a fruit with his Sat. _ Summer Festival (May), 1884, and has fine stained-
brother, Ganesha. Popularly Flower Show (May), Winter Festival glass windows. Nearby is a
known as Danda yutha Pani (Dec). s small Telescope House.
(“Bearer of the Staff”), Murugan Some 3 km (2 miles)
is depicted with a clean-shaven Lush green valleys, terraced northeast of the lake is the
head, holding a stick. His image plantations and a pleasant Kurunji Andavar Temple,
is made of medicinal herbs, climate make Kodaikanal one dedicated to Murugan. It is
mixed together to create a of Tamil Nadu’s most popular named after the amazing
wax-like substance. During the hill stations. Kodaikanal, or kurunji flowers (see p653),
Thaipoosam festival, the temple Kodai as it is commonly called, associated with the god.
attracts thousands of pilgrims, was first “discovered” by The Chettiar Park nearby,
American missionaries in the laid out along the hillside,
1840s. Drawn by its bracing is where the kurunji blooms
climate and clean environs, every 12 years.

Hiking in the Nilgiris
Short excursions around Ooty
offer many opportunities to
explore the Nilgiris (see
pp608–609) on foot. There are
scenic trails in the grasslands
around Mukurthi, an extinct
volcano known to the Todas Waterfall in the Nilgiris
as the “Gateway to the Dead”,
and in the windswept
Avalanche region, which consists of rolling, grassy downs, shola
trees and rhododendrons. The western edge of this region falls
away into the dense tropical jungles of Kerala. The eastern half
of the range, largely deprived of the Southwest Monsoon, is
Religious offerings for sale dominated by dry scrub and volcanic rock.
in Palani
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp702–703 and pp717–18


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T A MIL NADU  611


The Todas

The Nilgiris are home to 18 tribal groups, among whom the Todas are the most
remarkable. A pastoral community, the Todas are wheatish in complexion, curly
haired and strict vege tarians. Their language, though of Dravidian origin, has no
script. According to their creation myth, Goddess Teikirshy and her brother On first
created the buffalo by waving a magic wand, and then they created the Toda man.
The first Toda woman was created from the right rib of the man. The Todas’ first contact
with civilization occurred when the East India Company annexed the Nilgiris in 1799.
In 1823, John Sullivan, the then-Collector of Coimbatore, built the first stone house in
Ooty on land purchased from the Todas. Today, there are only about 1,100 Todas left.


The dairy temple, conical
in shape, is decorated with
sun, moon, serpent
and buffalo head
motifs. Only men
are allowed to
go inside.



Toda buffaloes, which
are pale brown with
long horns, are deeply Homespun cotton shawls called
revered. A buffalo is puthikuzhi have black-and-red embroidered
often sacrificed after a motifs. Worn by both Toda men and
funeral to accompany women, they are tied around the waist,
the deceased’s soul in with one end thrown over the shoulder,
the afterlife. almost like a Roman toga.
Dairy ceremonies
Elders are treated
with great respect, are festive occasions,
and greeted by lifting generally celebrated
their right foot and with dance and
putting it on one’s head music. The lively
for their blessings. songs consist of
simple stanzas,
which describe
important events
from the Todas’ past.








The barrel-shaped huts, made
of bamboo, grass and cane,
consist of a single room. Entry is
through a carved wooden door,
so small that one has to crawl
through it to enter. Several of
these windowless bamboo huts
make up a Toda village, which is
called a mund.





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612  SOUTH INDIA

s Madurai waters. This is the venue of the
annual Theppam (Float) festival,
One of South India’s great temple towns, Madurai is celebrating the marriage of
synonymous with the celebrated Minakshi Temple (see Shiva and Minakshi, when their
pp614–15). This ancient city on the banks of the Vaigai images are taken in illuminated
river has, over the centuries, been a rich repository of Tamil boats to the small pavilion in
the centre of the tank.
culture. Some 2,000 years ago, it hosted the famous Sangams
(gatherings of writers and poets), which were to provide Tamil  Koodal Alagar Temple
literature with some of its most enduring works. From the 1 km (0.6 miles) SW of Minakshi
7th to 13th centuries, as the capital of the Pandyas, it saw art Temple. Open daily. Closed to
non-Hindus.
and trade with Rome and China flourish. It later became part One of the 108 most sacred
of the Vijayanagar Empire, and it was the Nayaka capital in the Vaishnavite shrines, this glorious
16th and 17th centuries. Today, religion and culture remain a temple has three superimposed
vibrant part of the city’s daily life. sanctuaries, of diminishing size,
housing Lord Vishnu. From
bottom to top, the images show
Vishnu in the seated, standing
and reclining position. The outer
wall has beautiful sculptures
and stone screens.
R Anglican Cathedral
Off W Masi St. Open daily.
A fine example of Neo-Gothic
architecture, this church was
designed by Robert Fellowes
Chisholm (see p573), and
consecrated in 1881.
 Tombs of the
Madurai Sultans
N of the Vaigai river. Open daily.
The sultans of Madurai ruled the
city after the invasion in 1310 by
Malik Kafur, a general of Alauddin
Khilji (see p52). They lie buried to
the north of the city. The complex
includes Alauddin’s Mosque, with
Grand pillared hall in the Thirumalai Nayakar Palace its flat-roofed prayer hall and
tapering octagonal towers, and Central Bus Stand
 Minakshi Sundareshvara and a few adjoining buildings the tomb of a local Sufi saint, 6 km (4 miles) Tombs of the
Temple survive, their awesome scale Bara Mastan Sada, built in the TAMIL SANGAM ROAD Madurai Sultans,
ALAGARKOIL
See pp614–15. evoking the grandeur of a 16th century. KALPALAM ROAD VICTOR BRIDGE
vanished era. The courtyard
P Thirumalai Nayakar measures a massive 3,900 sq m T A M I L S A N G A M R O A D ( N H 4 9 )
Palace (41,979 sq ft), and is surrounded N O R T H V E L I R O A D V A K I L N E W S T R E E T River Vaigai
1.5 km (1 mile) SE of Minakshi Tem ple. by massive circular pillars. To its N O R T H M A S I S T R E E T
Open daily. & Son et Lumière: west lies the Throne Chamber,
(English): 6.45pm, daily. & a vast room with a raised, W E S T M A S I S T R E E T
The power and wealth of the octagonal dome. This room W E S T A V A N I M O O L A S T Minakshi MUNICHALAI ROAD
Nayakas is evident from the leads to the Dance Hall, which Railway W E S T V E L I S T R E E T W E ST M AR KE T ST RE ET WES T P ER UM AL MA I S T R Y R O A D Sundareshvara E A S T M A S I S T R E E T E A S T M A R R E T S T R E E T
Station
Temple
remains of this once-grand now houses a display of NORTH AVANI MOOLA ST EAST AVANI MOOLA ST
palace, built by Thirumalai archaeological objects. T O W N H A L L R O A D E A S T V E L I S T R E E T Theppakulam
Nayaka in 1636. The building, THIRUPARANKUNRAM S O U T H C H I T R A I S T R E E T
with its interesting Islamic P Theppakulam NE TA J I ROAD S O U T H A V A N I M O O L A S T R E E T
influences, was partially restored E of Minakshi Temple. Open daily. s
in the 19th century by Lord Madurai’s great tank is another Anglican S O U T H M A S I S T R E E T
Napier, governor of Madras marvel attributed to Thirumalai SETC Bus Stand Cathedral Thirumalai P A L A C E R O A D
W E S T V A D A M P O K K I S T R E E T
between 1866 and 1872. Today, Nayaka. The square tank has Nayakar Palace OLD KOYAVAR PALAYAM ROAD
only the spacious rectangular steps, flanked by animal- Koodal Alagar
Temple
Airport
courtyard called the Swarga and bird-shaped balustrades, Entrance to the Anglican Cathedral 12 km (7 miles)
Vilasam (“Heavenly Pavilion”) leading down to the rippling at Madurai
For hotels and restaurants in the region see pp702–703 and pp717–18
612-613_EW_India.indd 612 26/04/17 11:49 am
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M ADUR AI  613


VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
Practical Information
Madurai district. 498 km
(309 miles) SW of Chennai.
* 923,000. n Tourist Office,
West Veli Road, (0452) 233 4757.
( Mon–Sat. _ Theppam
Festival (Jan/Feb), Avanimoolam
(Aug/Sep), Navaratri (Sep/Oct).
Transport
~ 12 km (7 miles) S of city
£ @,
A mural depicting a scene from the Ramayana, Alagarkoil Temple
is regarded as Minakshi’s brother.
Environs entrance mandapa has typical According to legend, when
Thiruparankundram, 6 km Nayaka-period pillars with horse Kallalagar went to give his sister
(4 miles) southwest of Madurai, and yali riders, while portraits of in marriage to Sundareshvara, he
is a small town known for its Nayaka rulers are carved on the stayed on the banks of the Vaigai
sacred granite hill. Regarded as columns. The temple’s main river during the ceremony. This
one of the six sacred abodes of sanctum contains five shrines. event is celebrated every year,
Murugan, the son of Shiva, the The 14-day temple festival, in April/May.
hill was the site of his marriage in March/April, celebrates the On the summit of the hill
to Devayani, the daughter of victory of Murugan over the is Palamudircholai,the last of
Indra. There is a rock-cut temple demon Suran, his coronation, the six abodes of Murugan,
here, built by the Pandyas in and his subsequent marriage marked by a shrine, while
the 8th century. The temple is to Devayani. further away is Nupura Ganga,
approached through a series The temple at Alagarkoil, a perennial spring, used for
of 17th- and 18th-century 21 km (13 miles) north of all rituals in the temple, and
mandapas, at ascending levels, Madurai, is dedicated to believed to have emerged
linked by stone steps. The Kallalagar, a form of Vishnu who from Vishnu’s ankle.

Madurai City Centre
1 Minakshi Sundareshvara Temple 0 metres 500
2 Thirumalai Nayakar Palace
3 Koodal Alagar Temple 0 yards 500
4 Anglican Cathedral

Central Bus Stand
6 km (4 miles) Tombs of the
KALPALAM ROAD VICTOR BRIDGE ALAGARKOIL
Madurai Sultans,
TAMIL SANGAM ROAD
N O R T H V E L I R O A D T A M I L S A N G A M R O A D ( N H 4 9 ) River Vaigai
V A K I L N E W S T R E E T
N O R T H M A S I S T R E E T

W E S T V E L I S T R E E T T O W N H A L L R O A D NORTH AVANI MOOLA ST EAST AVANI MOOLA ST E A S T V E L I S T R E E T
Minakshi
Railway W E ST M AR KE T ST RE ET WES T P ER UM AL MA I S T R Y R O A D W E S T M A S I S T R E E T W E S T A V A N I M O O L A S T Sundareshvara E A S T M A S I S T R E E T E A S T M A R R E T S T R E E T MUNICHALAI ROAD
Station
Temple
S O U T H A V A N I M O O L A S T R E E T
THIRUPARANKUNRAM S O U T H C H I T R A I S T R E E T Theppakulam
NE TA J I ROAD
Anglican S O U T H M A S I S T R E E T
SETC Bus Stand Cathedral
Thirumalai
W E S T V A D A M P O K K I S T R E E T Nayakar Palace P A L A C E R O A D OLD KOYAVAR PALAYAM ROAD
Koodal Alagar
Temple
Airport
12 km (7 miles)
For keys to symbols see back flap

612-613_EW_India.indd 613 04/05/17 3:23 pm

614  SOUTH INDIA

Madurai: Minakshi Sundareshvara Temple

This enormous temple complex is dedicated to Shiva,
known here as Sundareshvara (the “Handsome God”),
and his consort Parvati or Minakshi (the “Fish-Eyed
Goddess”). Originally built by the early Pandyas
(7th–10th centuries), it was extensively added to by
succeeding dynasties, especially between the 14th
and 18th centuries. The temple complex is within
a high-walled enclosure, at the core of which are
the two sanctums for Minakshi and Sundareshvara,
surrounded by a number of smaller shrines and
grand pillared halls. Especially impressive are
the 12 gopuras. Their soaring towers rise from
solid granite bases, and are covered with
stucco figures of deities, mythical animals
and monsters, painted in vivid colours.


Guardian Deities
Fierce monster
images, with
protruding eyes
and horns, mark
the arched ends
of the vaulted
roofs, and serve as
guardian deities.





Gopura
Pyramidal gates (gopuras) rise to a
height of more than 50 m (164 ft).
These towering gateways indicate
the entrance to the temple complex
at the four cardinal points, while
lesser gopuras lead to the sanctums
of the main deities.














Openings in
the middle of the
Stucco Work long sides allow
The figures of deities on the tower light to enter the
are repaired, repainted and ritually hollow chambers
reconsecrated every 12 years. at each level.
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp702–703 and pp717–18


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M ADUR AI  615


VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
Practical Information
Chitrai St.
Tel (0452) 234 4360. Open daily.
Non-Hindus not allowed inside
the sanctum. Extra charges for
photography. _ Chitirai Festival
(mid-Apr), Avanimoolam (Aug/
Sep). Museum: Open daily. &
Extra charges for photography.

Profusely carved columns in the Thousand-Pillared Hall
north. The god resides in this,
Exploring the columned hall used for shops the second main shrine, amid
Minakshi Temple and stores. This hall has a votive columns that bear the fish
The temple is entered from the lamp-holder with 1,008 lamps, motifs emblematic of his wife.
eastern side through the Ashta which are lit on festive occasions The 16th-century “Flagpole Hall”
Shakti Mandapa, or the “Hall of and present a spectacular sight. or Kambattadi Mandapa, in
Eight Goddesses”, with sculpted The adjacent seven-storeyed front of this shrine, has a pavilion
pillars representing the various Chitra Gopura, is the tallest with a seated Nandi, a gilded
aspects of the Goddess Shakti. tower in the complex. flagpole and ornately
Next to this hall is the Minakshi Next to it is the carved pillars
Nayaka Mandapa, Potramarai Kulam, depicting the
a spacious or “Golden Lotus” 24 forms of Shiva.
Tank, with steps To its east is the
leading down to Thousand-Pillared
the water. It is Hall, with 985 beau-
surrounded by Kalyana Sundara, Vishnu tifully decorated
pillared corridors giving Minakshi to Shiva columns. Dating to
that once bore the 16th cen tury, this
paintings from the Vijayanagar hall is now a museum, which
period. To the west of this tank is displays bronze and stone
the Minakshi Shrine, one of the images. A set of pillars, a marvel
two main shrines, comprising in stone, produce the seven
dual concentric corridors and notes of Carnatic music. The
many halls and galleries. This Kalyana Mandapa, to the south
is the site of the bed to which of the pillared hall, is where the
Minakshi’s “husband”, in the form marriage of Shiva and Parvati is
of Sundareshvara’s image, is celebrated every year during the
brought every night from his Chitirai Festival in mid-April.
own shrine, the Sundareshvara Pudumandapa, the 100-m
Shrine, which stands to the (328-ft) long “New Hall” with
portrait sculptures of the Nayaka
rulers, is outside the main temple
Minakshi Sundareshvara complex. Built by Tirumalai
Temple Complex Nayaka in 1635, it now houses
1 Ashta Shakti Mandapa a market selling saris, jewellery
2 Minakshi Nayaka and spices.
Mandapa
3 Chitra Gopura 5
4 Potramarai Kulam
5 Minakshi Shrine 6
6 Sundareshvara Shrine
7 Kambattadi Mandapa 4 7
8 Thousand-Pillared Hall
9 Kalyana Mandapa
3
9 8
0 metres 100 2
0 yards 100
1 Potramarai Kulam, surrounded
by a colonnade




614-615_EW_India.indd 615 26/04/17 11:49 am

616  SOUTH INDIA


Chettiar Mansions

The arid region encompassing the towns of Karaikudi, Devakottai and their
neighbouring villages, collectively known as Chettinad, is distinguished by large
ornate mansions which are the ancestral homes of the Chettiars, Tamil Nadu’s rich
merchant community. Like the Marwaris of Shekhavati (see pp376–7), the Chettiars
were astute businessmen who travelled far to make their fortunes. The wealth
they acquired in Burma, Sri Lanka, Malaysia and Vietnam was used to build these
elaborate mansions. Today, the Chettiars are prominent bankers and industrialists,
based in Chennai and Bengaluru.
Chettiar Houses
Built in the early 20th century, these houses
reflect the social, ritual and kinship needs of
the community, as well as its economic status.
Though now unoccupied for most of the year,
they are still used for family celebrations.



The splendid Chettinad Palace, Kanadukathan




A long verandah with wooden pillars leads
to a series of open courtyards, surrounded by
rooms to accommodate the growing family.




The first pillared hall, where each pillar is made
from an entire tree trunk of Burma teak, is reserved
for the men of the house to receive guests and
conduct business.

The formal reception room has marble floors,
stained-glass windows, painted cornices, teak
and rosewood furniture and ornate chandeliers.















Elaborate marble floors, well-polished doorways, carved
wooden beams, granite pillars, and other decorative elements Intricately carved
in a Chettiar house display the skills of the Tamil craftsmen. wooden doorway





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T A MIL NADU  617

d Chettinad
Chettinad district. 82 km (51 miles)
NE of Madurai. £ @ ( daily.
_ Bullock Races (Jan/Feb).
Karaikudi, the heart of the
Chettinad area, has several
temples, including the 7th-
century Pillaiyarpati Temple
dedicated to Lord Ganesha. It
also has fine Chettiar mansions,
and antiques shops stocked with
treasures from these mansions.
Chettinad is famous for its hot,
spicy, non-vegetarian cuisine – The longest corridor at Ramanathaswamy Temple, with sculpted pillars
pepper chicken is one of the
most popular dishes. The food is Malaysia and Singapore in the 16th to 18th centuries,
prepared in copper vessels and during its annual festival this massive temple is enclosed
served on plantain leaves. in December. within a high wall with five
gopuras. The most remarkable
feature of this temple is the
f Ramanathapuram g Rameshvaram Sokkattan Mandapa, so called
because it resembles a sokkattan
Ramanathapuram district. 117 km Ramanathapuram district. 163 km
(73 miles) SE of Madurai. * 62,000. (101 miles) SE of Madurai. * 38,050. (dice) in shape. It surrounds the
£ @ ( daily. _ Urs at Erwadi £ @ n Tourist office, East Car core of the temple on four sides
Dargah (Dec). Street, (04573) 221 371. in a continuous corridor, and is
_ Ramalinga (Jun/Jul). the largest and most elaborate
This ancient town is associated of its kind, with 1,212 pillars
with the Setupatis, local rulers A major pilgrimage site, the extending 197 m (646 ft) from
who rose to prominence in sacred island of Rameshvaram east to west and 133 m (436 ft)
the late 17th century under juts out into the Gulf of Mannar, from north to south. The complex
the Madurai Nayakas. They the narrow body of water also has a staggering 22 tirthas
derived prestige and income by separating Tamil Nadu from (tanks) for ritual ablutions; it is
controlling the isthmus that led Sri Lanka. believed that a dip in the Agni
to Rameshvaram Island. A century The Ramanathaswamy Tirtha, in front of the temple,
later, their rule came to an end, Temple, in the middle of the removes all sins. The installation
when they surrendered to the island, is dedicated to Shiva. ceremony of the linga by Rama
East India Company in 1792. It houses the linga that Lord and Sita is celebrated every year.
To the west of the present town Rama, the hero of the epic Standing on Gandamadana
is the palace complex of the Ramayana (see p31), is said to Hill, the highest point of the
Setupatis. Though little remains, have installed and worshipped island, 3 km (2 miles) northwest
the 17th-century Ramalinga after his victory against Ravana of the Ramanathaswamy
Vilas, on the north side of the in Lanka. Founded by the Chola Temple, is a two-storeyed
palace complex, still has well- rulers but expanded extensively mandapa that is said to shelter
preserved wall paintings. These during the Nayaka period, the footprint of Rama.
depict the epics as well as battle Dhanushkodi (“Rama’s Bow”),
scenes, business transactions the southernmost tip of
and royal ceremonies. The upper Rameshvaram, about 18 km
chambers depict more private (11 miles) from the main temple,
royal scenes, such as family has a spectacular beach. From
gatherings, music and dance here, a series of boulders, known
recitals, and hunting expeditions. as Adam’s Bridge, or Rama Setu,
A small shrine, facing north, is can be seen extending far into the
dedicated to the family goddess horizon. These are believed to be
of the Setupatis, Rajarajeshvari. the ruins of a bridge constructed
It stands immediately south by Lord Rama’s varnara sena
of the Ramalinga Vilas. (army of monkeys) after Hanuman
On the outskirts of the reported Sita’s captivity in Ravana’s
town is the 400-year-old Palace. The Kodandarama Temple,
Erwadi Dargah, housing the on the shore, is said to be where
tomb of Ibrahim Syed Aulia, Ravana’s brother, Vibeeshna was
a Muslim saint. It attracts coronated. Miraculously, the
devotees from all over India, Devotees taking a dip in the holy waters temple survived a devastating
as well as from Sri Lanka, of the Agni Tirtha cyclone in 1964.
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp702–703 and pp717–18


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618  SOUTH INDIA

h Tuticorin
Tuticorin district. 148 km (92 miles)
S of Madurai. * 1,750,176. £ @
_ Golden Chariot Festival (Aug).
This is Tamil Nadu’s second-
largest natural harbour, and
the main port of call for ships
from Southeast Asia, Australia
and New Zealand. Tuticorin is
also a major industrial centre
with thermal power stations,
spinning mills and salt-
extraction units.
The city’s other important
commercial activity is pearl Corridor of the Kanthimathi Nellaiyappar Temple, Tirunelvelli
fishing. Since the early centuries
of the Christian era, this region’s j Tiruchendur k Tirunelvelli
pearls have been in demand Tuticorin district. 210 km (130 miles) Tirunelvelli district. 154 km (96 miles)
throughout the world. Ancient S of Madurai. £ @ from Madurai, SW of Madurai. £ @ n Tamil Nadu
Tamil literature mentions a Tirunelvelli, Tuticorin & Nagercoil. Tourism, Tirunelvelli Junction, (0462)
flourishing trade with the _ Annual Temple Festival (Jun/Jul). 250 0104. _ Chariot Festival
Romans, who bought Tuticorin (Jun/Jul).
pearls in exchange for gold This beautiful coastal town,
and wine. one of the six sacred abodes of Situated in the fertile tract
Today the government, which Shiva’s son, Murugan (see p610), by the Tamaraparani river,
has set up a society of divers, has the impressive Subramanyam Tirunelvelli is dominated by
strictly regulates pearl fishing, Temple. Dating to the 9th the Kanthimathi Nellaiyappar
in order to protect the oyster century, it was renovated in Temple, parts of which date to
beds – sometimes pearl fishing the 20th century. The temple, the 13th century. This complex
is allowed only once in ten entered through the towering of twin temples, dedicated to
years. The pearl fishers still use Mela gopura, is built on a rocky Shiva and Parvati, has two
traditional methods, diving to promontory overlooking the huge rectangular enclosures
a depth of up to 70 m (230 ft) Gulf of Mannar, and provides connected by a long corridor.
without oxygen to extricate the lovely views. On the seashore The Shiva temple is to the north,
pearls. Most divers can remain there are many caves and rock- while the Parvati temple is
underwater for more than a cut sculptures. to the south. The elaborate
minute; their only safeguard mandapas here include the
against accidents or natural Environs Somavara Man dapa, which
danger is to dive in pairs. Manapad, 18 km (11 miles) contains two pillars carved
Tuticorin was occupied by the south, has one of the oldest like gopuras; the Rishaba
Portuguese in the 17th century churches in India, the Church Mandapa, with exquisitely
and later by the Dutch and the of the Holy Cross. Built in 1581, carved sculptures of Manmatha,
British. Its colonial past is visible it preserves a fragment of the the God of Love, and his consort
in two elegant churches, the “True Cross”, brought from Rathi; and the Mani Mandapa,
Dutch Sacred Heart Cathedral, Jerusalem. An annual festival with a set of stone pillars that
built in the mid-18th century, held every September attracts produce the melodic notes
and the beautiful 17th-century pilgrims from all over the region. of Carnatic music (see p599)
Church of the Lady of the Snows, St Francis Xavier visited this when tapped.
built by the Portuguese. coastal village in 1542. Every summer, the temple’s
wooden chariots are led in
procession through the town
during the annual Chariot
Festival, which attracts
thousands of devotees.
Environs
Courtallam (Kuttalam) Falls,
at an elevation of 170 m (558 ft),
are 59 km (37 miles) northwest
of Tirunelvelli. This picturesque
spot is famed for its exotic flora
and the medi cinal properties
Church of the Holy Cross in Manapad of its waters.
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp702–703 and pp717–18


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T A MIL NADU  619


structure, the temple has a
Navaratri mandapa with a
beautifully painted panel of
Mahishasuramardini (Durga
killing the demon Mahisha). An
18th-century shrine within the
temple contains the footprints
(sripadaparai) of the goddess
Kumari, who performed her
penance at this spot.
The Gandhi Memorial, near
Suchindram’s Thanumalayan Temple, overlooking the temple tank the temple, is where Mahatma
Gandhi’s ashes were kept before
l Suchindram z Kanniyakumari immersion. The building is
designed so that every year
Kanniyakumari district. 247 km Kanniyakumari district. 235 km (146
(153 miles) S of Madurai. £ Nagarcoil, miles) SW of Madurai. * 19,700. £ on 2nd October (Gandhi’s
5 km (3 miles) NW of town centre, @ n Tamil Nadu Tourism, Beach Rd, birthday), at midday, the rays
then bus. @ _ Arudhra Festival (04652) 246 276. _ Chaitra Purnima of the sun fall on the exact spot
(Dec/Jan). (Apr), Navaratri (Sep/Oct). where his ashes were placed.
Just off the coast, on a rocky
This small temple town is The southernmost tip of the island, the Vivekananda
closely linked with the legend Indian subcontinent, where Memorial marks the spot where
of Kumari, the Virgin Goddess the Indian Ocean, the Arabian the great Indian philo sopher,
(an incarnation of Parvati). It is Sea and the Bay of Bengal meet, Swami Vivekananda (see p290)
believed that Shiva rested at this Kanniyakumari enchants visitors meditated before attending
quiet spot by the banks of the with its spectacular views, the World Religious Conference
Pelayar river, while the goddess especially at sunrise and sunset. in Chicago in 1893. Near the
Kumari performed her penance The most breathtaking of these memorial is the imposing
at Kanniyakumari. occurs on Chaitra Purnima (the 40-m (131-ft) high statue of
Suchindram’s unique full-moon night in April), when Tiruvalluvar, the 1st-century BC
Thanumalayan Temple is both sunset and moonrise Tamil poet, who wrote the epic
ded icated to the Hindu Trinity occur at the same time. Tirukural, often referred to as
of Brahma, Vishnu and Shiva. Kanniyakumari is believed one of the greatest classics
The rectangular complex has to be the abode of Kumari, the of Tamil literature.
enormous, brightly coloured Virgin Goddess, who is supposed The Church of Our Lady
gopuras, which date from the to have done penance here so of Joy, which was founded by
17th and 18th centuries, and that she could marry Shiva. The St Francis Xavier in the 1540s,
depict stories from the great marriage, however, did not take is located at the southern edge
epics (see pp30–31). One place, since it was deemed that of the town. Other attractions
of the two main shrines, built she remain a virgin in order to include the sandy beaches
in the 13th century, contains save the world. Her temple, and the multicoloured
the sthanumalaya linga, which the Kumari Amman Temple, a granite rocks.
symbolizes Brahma, Vishnu popular pilgrimage centre on
and Shiva. The other is the seashore, was built by the  Kumari Amman Temple
dedicated to Vishnu, whose Pandya kings in the 8th century Open daily. Closed Sanctum
image is made of a special and was extensively renovated closed to non-Hindus.
kind of jaggery and mustard. by the Chola, Vijayanagar and E Vivekananda Memorial
The temple also boasts a set Nayaka rulers. A magnificent Open daily. & 4 every 30 min.
of musical pillars made from
single blocks of granite. When
tapped, each pillar produces a
different musical note. Other
highlights are a 5-m (16-ft) high
statue of Hanuman, placed
opposite the Rama shrine, and
the exquisite sculptures in the
Vasantha Mandapa. A special
puja is held here every Friday
evening, with music and a
procession. In the complex is
an ancient banyan tree, and a
sculpture of Shiva’s bull, Nandi,
which locals believe actually
continues to grow. The beach at Kanniyakumari with its three memorials




618-619_EW_India.indd 619 26/04/17 11:49 am

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SOUTH INDIA  621


ANDAMAN ISLANDS

An archipelago of 572 idyllic islands in the Bay of Bengal, about
1,000 km (621 miles) from the mainland, the Andamans and
the neighbouring Nicobar Islands are actually the peaks of a
submerged mountain range that extends from Myanmar to
Indonesia. They encompass three distinct ecosystems – tropical
forests, mangroves and coral reefs, which support a staggering
variety of plant and animal life. Foreign visitors require a permit
(see pp734–5), and are not allowed on the Nicobar Islands. Many
parts of the Andamans, too, are off-limits, to preserve their rare biodiversity and
protect the six tribal groups, some of whom are fiercely independent. Their hostility
was probably the reason why Marco Polo described the islands as being inhabited
by cannibals. The Andamans acquired the sinister name Kala Pani (“Black Waters”) in
the 19th century, when the British established a penal colony here. The islands were
severely hit by the tsunami waves in December 2004. Their permanent population
includes migrant Indians, Bangladeshis, Sri Lankans and Karens from Myanmar.
The surrounding reefs are ideal for water sports.


Kolkata Landfall Island
Narcondam Island
Sights at a Glance
Towns & Villages
Bay of Aerial Bay
Bengal • • Kalipur 1 Port Blair
Diglipur 5 Chidiya Tapu
Kalighat •
Sound Island Islands
Mohantapur •
• Mayabander 3 Ross Island
Interview 6 Cinque Island
Island
Cuthbert Bay 7 Ritchie’s Archipelago
8 Middle Andaman
NH223
9 North Andaman
Rangat
•
Rangat Bay Barren
Long Island Island National Parks
Kadamtala •
Henry Lawrence 2 Mount Harriet
Island National Park
Baratang • John Lawrence Island 4 Wandoor Marine
National Park
NH223 Havelock Island
Neil Island
Ferrarganj
• Key
Chennai, National highway
Visakhapatnam
Major road
North Sentinel Andaman
Island Sea Minor road
Ferry route
The Sisters
North Brother
South Brother
South Sentinel
Island 0 kilometres 100
Little
Andaman 0 miles 100
Nicobar Islands
Children playing near the Havelock Island jetty For keys to symbols see back flap

620-621_EW_India.indd 621 26/04/17 11:49 am

622  SOUTH INDIA


Samudrika Marine Museum,
run by the Indian Navy, has five
galleries devoted to the history,
geo graphy and anthropology
of the islands, and has a superb
display on marine life. The tiny
zoo at Haddo has successfully
bred saltwater crocodiles and
returned them to the wild.
Chatham Sawmills on Chatham
Island, 5 km (3 miles) north, is one
of the oldest and largest saw mills
in Asia. Established by the British
in 1836, this is where many of
the islands’ fast­disappearing
An aerial view of the capital, Port Blair species of trees, including the
towering padauk (Andaman
1 Port Blair “Black Waters”, reflecting the redwood), are processed.
atrocities that awaited the
South Andaman Island. 1,190 km
(739 miles) E of Chennai. * 100,200. prisoners. It remains Port Blair’s Environs
~ 3 km (2 miles) S of town centre, most prominent landmark. The nearest beach from Port Blair
then bus or taxi. g n Govt of India Of the original seven wings is the crescent­shaped Corbyn’s
Tourist Office, Junglighat Rd, (03192) laid out around a central Cove, 6 km (4 miles) south of the
236 348; Department of Information, watchtower, only four remain; capital. Viper Island, named after
Publicity and Tourism (INPT), (03192) three have been converted into a 19th­century British shipping
232 694. Travel permits: required for a hospital and are lined with vessel that was wrecked off its
the Andaman Islands (see pp734–5). cells, each 3 by 3.5 m (10 by 11 ft) shore, can be reached via a cruise
_ Island Tourism Festival (Dec/Jan). in size. Daily rations consisted of from Port Blair. Its sinister history
∑ andamans.gov.in two cups of drinking water and involves the local prison, which
two cups of rice. Executions was built in 1867 and whose
The capital, Port Blair, is located were frequent, and many were macabre gallows and torture
to the southeast of South made to undergo hard labour. posts can still be seen. Only
Andaman Island. The town Japanese troops, who occupied daytime visits are allowed as the
is a good base from the Islands during island has no inhabitants. About
which to travel World War II, 14 km (9 miles) from Port Blair lies
around the destroyed part of the Sippyghat Farm, where many
archipelago, and is prison. In 1945, the varieties of spices and indigenous
well equipped with British moved back, plants and shrubs are grown.
hotels, banks, tour re­established their
operators and headquarters at Port P Cellular Jail
sports complexes. Blair and closed Open 8:45am–12:30pm, 1:30–5pm
The town’s the jail. It is now Tue–Sun. Son et Lumière: 6pm &
tumultuous history a memorial to the 7:15pm daily (Hindi); 7:15pm Mon,
began in 1789, when political prisoners; Wed, Fri (English). &
Lieutenant Archibald a moving sound and
Blair of the British A row of tiny cells, light show is held
East India Company Cellular Jail here every evening.
conducted a survey The town’s other
to identify a safe harbour for the places of interest are scattered
Company’s vessels. He chose the around Aberdeen Bazaar, on
site of what is now Port Blair. Fifty the east side of town. The
years later the islands became a Anthropological Museum, west
penal colony. Those incarcerated of the bazaar, sheds light on the
were political activists involved islands’ tribal inhabitants and has
in the Indian Mutiny of 1857 (see a collection of rare photographs
p57); by 1864, the number of taken in the 1960s. The Aquarium,
prisoners had grown from 773 to also known as the Fisheries
3,000. In 1896, the construction Museum, at the eastern end of
of the Cellular Jail began; it soon MG Road, showcases hundreds
became an infamous symbol of of species of unusual fish, corals
colonial oppression. Designed and shells. Next door, the
specifically for solitary confine­ Andaman Water Sports Complex
ment, it earned the Islands the hires out rowing boats, jet skis The day’s catch, a boatful of fresh fish,
dreaded name of Kala Pani or and paddle boats. The clams and crayfish
For hotels and restaurants in this region see p703 and p718


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Date 12th July 2013
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AND A M AN ISLANDS  623


E Anthropological Museum 3 Ross Island
Tel (03192) 232 291. Open Fri–Wed. Ross Island. 2 km (1 mile) E of Port Snorkelling and
Closed Mon & public hols. Scuba Diving
Blair. g from Aberdeen Jetty. Travel
E Fisheries Museum permits: required for the Andamans
Tel (03192) 231 848. Open 9am–1pm, (see pp734–5). Only day trips allowed.
2–4:45pm. Closed 2nd Sat of month,
Wed & public hols. & A short ferry ride from Port
Blair leads to Ross Island, which
 Andaman Water served as the admin istrative
Sports Complex capital for most of the
Tel (03192) 232 694. Andaman Islands from 1858
Open daily.
until 1941. Ross Island’s
E Samudrika history, however, is
Marine Museum much older, for it
Tel (03192) 248 327 (ext. 2437). was the home of the
Open Tue–Sun. & indigenous Great
Chatham Sawmills Andamanese (see p627).
Open 8:30am–2:30pm Mon– Orchid in bloom Within 20 years of British
Sat, mornings are best. ^ occupation, diseases
such as syphilis and measles Snorkelling, a popular way to explore
2 Mount Harriet virtually wiped out the tribe, marine life
whose numbers dropped from
National Park 5,000 to just 28. Ross Island Snorkelling
was also the base for the British Snorkels can be hired out
South Andaman Island. 70 km for around ₹100 per day from
(43 miles) N of Port Blair. g From administrators of the penal numerous tour operators.
Chatham Wharf or Phoenix Bay colony in Port Blair, and was Popular venues are Corbyn’s
Jetty (Fisheries Jetty) in Port Blair to equipped with swimming pools Cove, Wandoor, Chidiya Tapu
Bamboo Flats Jetty, then taxi to park and bungalows. In 1941, the and Neil and Havelock islands.
entry point. Tickets for day visits Japanese converted the site
are available at entrance. & into a POW camp, and built war Scuba Diving
installations, remnants of which There are several registered
Some of the Andamans’ can still be seen. It now lies dive centres on Havelock
highest peaks are in Mount deserted, and the few signs Island. Andaman Bubbles,
Harriet National Park, lying of its colonial glory, such as the (03192) 282 140, is well
across the inlet from Phoenix chief commissioner’s house established, and charges
Jetty in Port Blair. Mount and the Anglican church, are ₹3,000 for a couple of dives
Harriet, at 365 m (1,198 ft), dilapidated and overgrown. near Port Blair, ₹3,500 for areas
is surrounded by evergreen The area is now under the further than Wandoor. It also
forests that support a Indian Navy, whose museum, runs diving courses. Andaman
remarkable biodiversity, Smritika, records the lives of Dive Club, (09474) 224 171,
predominantly birds such those imprisioned here. also offers diving courses.
as the great black In addition, Gold India,
woodpecker and the (993322384), Dive India
green imperial pigeon. (8001122205) and Barefoot
Well-marked hiking Scuba (9474263120) are also
trails include the 2-km registered diving centres on
the island. The Andaman
(1-mile) walk to Scuba Club, also on Havelock
Kalapathar, and the Island, is a pretty resort on
16-km (10-mile) trail the beach. www.andaman
to Madhuban Beach, scubaclub. com
where elephants are
trained for lumbering. Eco-Friendly Diving
Beware of leeches Coral reefs are sensitive
during the monsoon. and even the gentlest touch
The Forest Guest can kill them. It is important
House, on top of Mount that you avoid touching or
Harriet, offers fine views treading on them, and be
of Port Blair and Ross careful with your fins. Practise
Island. Visits and overnight des cending into the sea before
stays are possible with the actual dive, as descent
permission from the is often too fast, leading to
Chief Conservator of collision with reefs. Do not
use anchors near reefs.
the Forest, (03192) 230
152 or 233 270. The rare Narcondam hornbill



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624  SOUTH INDIA

4 Wandoor Marine National Park

Created in 1983 to preserve the tropical ecosystems of 15
uninhabited islands in the Andamans, the Mahatma Gandhi Marine
National Park at Wandoor stretches over 281 sq km (108 sq miles).
It encompasses myriad lagoons, bays, coral reefs, rainforests and
mangrove creeks. Ferries from Wandoor village skirt lagoons with
kaleidoscopic sea beds, and are often chased by schools of playful
dolphins. Most of the islands are protected and thus inaccessible;
however, their coasts reveal a fascinating transition from towering
tropical canopies to stilted mangroves. The only islands that allow
visits are Jolly Buoy Island (open 15 Nov–15 May), which is ideal for
snorkelling, and Redskin Island (open May–Nov), with a well-marked Types of Coral
nature trail. Unfortunately, the 2004 tsunami caused widespread Corals are of two broad
destruction of coral reefs in Jolly Buoy. types – either hard or soft.
The colourful soft coral has
no outer skeleton.








Angelfish
The angelfish is one of the reef’s most vividly
coloured fish. Its bright hues help to camouflage
it as well as to advertise its territory. Lion or Scorpion Fish
Measuring up to 40 cm (16 in), this
Giant Robber Crab ornate fish has venom in its rays,
One of the largest and rarest crabs which can be fatal for humans.
in the world, the giant
robber has powerful
claws that help it to
climb trees such as
the coconut palm,
and to break the hard
shell of its fruit.

Grouper Fish
The Coral Reef Among the most
Referred to as rainforests of the sea, commonly found
the multi-coloured reefs are delicate species, groupers
ecosystems that support an amazing can change their
colour to match
variety of marine life (see p651), and the rocks and
over 200 species of coral. surrounding reefs.
Staghorn
Sea sponges are Sea fan coral Mushroom
the simplest of the coral
marine animals Plate
that live attached Brain coral coral Clown fish
to the sea bed.
Sea
Giant clams anemone
can measure
up to 1 m
(3 ft).



For hotels and restaurants in this region see p703 and p718


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Date 24th April 2013
Size 125mm x 217mm

AND A M AN ISLANDS  625

Green Tree Snake
One of the 40-odd species found here, VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
this harmless snake has no fangs and
eats reptiles and frogs. Practical Information
South Andaman Island. 29 km
(18 miles) SW of Port Blair.
n Chief Wildlife Warden, Van
Sadon, Haddo, Port Blair, (03192)
233 270. For tours to Jolly Buoy &
Redskin islands, (03192) 232 694.
Gurjan trees Open daily, subject to weather.
make up the Best time: Dec–Mar. &
emergent 8 Forest Lodge has 4 suites.
layer, which  Snorkelling & scuba diving.
towers above
the canopy at Transport
@ 4 from Wandoor village.
60 m (197 ft).
Padauk, or The second layer,
Andaman red- known as the canopy,
wood, grows up with trees such as the
to 36 m (118 ft).
padauk, absorbs most
of the sunlight.











Orchids

Bamboo Toung Pienne
tree Tropical
Rainforest
Pandanus The multilayered
forms tropical rainforests
part of include giant trees
the under- such as the gurjan
storey and padauk, a rich
layer. undergrowth
of epiphytes and
Ferns climbers, and over
120 species of ferns.





Mushrooms




Mangroves
Dense mangrove forests grow along the waterlogged
creeks of Wandoor’s islands, and support a variety of
fauna such as snakes, crabs, crocodiles and waterfowl.




624-625_EW_India.indd 625 26/04/17 11:49 am

626  SOUTH INDIA

7 Ritchie’s
Archipelago
The group of islands lies between 20
km (12 miles) & 40 km (25 miles) E of
South Andaman. g from Port Blair &
Rangat Bay (Middle Andaman), Long
Island: 6:15am Mon, Wed & Sat from
Port Blair, 7:15am Tue, Thu, Sun return
to Port Blair. Travel permits: required
for the Andamans (see pp734–5).
This cluster of tiny islands is for the
most part protected as a national
A boat gliding across the glass-like surface of a lagoon, Andamans park to preserve its remarkable
biodiversity. Only three islands
5 Chidiya Tapu some of the best snorkelling and are open to visitors, and they are
scuba diving in the Andamans. connected to Port Blair by ferry
South Andaman Island. 25 km (16
miles) S of Port Blair. @ g from Port The sandy shores are also among daily; note that ferries to Long
Blair. Taxis available from Port Blair. the last refuges of the hawksbill Island do not operate on
and green sea turtles, which nest Thursdays and Sundays.
The fishing village of Chidiya Tapu here annually in their hundreds. Neil Island, 42 km (26 miles)
(“Bird Island”), at the southern- northeast, is the closest to the
most tip of South Andaman Environs capital and is inhabited by settlers
Island, is an hour’s drive from Tiny groups of from Bengal. The
Port Blair. Its white beaches, islands known as interior is lush with
skirting a large bay, make it a the Sisters and the paddy fields and
popular day trip with visitors. Brothers, lying 12 km plantations; the
Forest trails through the (7 miles) and island is the region’s
surrounding tropical under growth 32 km (20 miles) main producer of
are a bird-watcher’s delight, as south of Cinque fresh fruit and
they teem with a vast variety of respectively, can be vegetables. The
species, including rare sunbirds, visited only with a beaches offer
kingfishers, woodpeckers and professional diving superb snorkelling
eagles. Its beaches, especially group. Large tracts A hermit crab digging opportunities.
the picturesque Munde Pahar of the remote a temporary home Havelock Island,
Beach, are excellent for southern island 69 km (43 miles)
snorkelling, and there are good of Little Andaman, 120 km northeast of Port Blair, is the
camping facilities as well. The (75 miles) and eight hours most popular among visitors. MV
forest department is setting up by ferry from Port Blair, are Makruzz (www.makruzz.com) runs
a biological park, to house the a reserve for the 119 surviving a daily catamaran to the island,
animals from Port Blair’s zoo members of the Onge tribe. It is which is well equipped, with
(see p622). not advisable to try and make guesthouses and a well-stocked
contact with them. Part of bazaar. Coastal cruise (www.
northern Little Andaman is coastalcruise.in) also offers boats.
6 Cinque Island open to visitors. Try out the tented accommodation
on Radhanagar Beach, at the
Cinque Island. 39 km (24 miles) S of
Port Blair. g motor boats from Port Little Andaman western tip of the island, where
Blair & Wandoor, ferries from Chiriya g check website for schedule. dolphins, dugongs and turtles
Tapu. Travel permits: required for the ∑ www.and.nic can be spotted from the long
Andamans (see pp734–5). Only day
visits are allowed.
The volcanic Cinque Island is
perhaps the most beautiful of
the entire Andamans group,
as it has had little human
interference over the years
and is mostly uninhabited.
Comprising two islands, North
and South Cinque, connected
by a sand bar, it was declared
a sanctuary in 1987. The
surrounding reefs of rare
coral and varied marine life offer A colourful sea fan and a grouper fish
For hotels and restaurants in this region see p703 and p718


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AND A M AN ISLANDS  627

8 Middle Andaman
Middle Andaman Island. 170 km (106
miles) N from Port Blair to Rangat. g
from Port Blair. Travel permits: required
for the Andamans (see pp734–5).
This is literally the middle island
among the Andamans trio.
Large tracts of its interior are
part of the highly protected
Jarawa Tribal Reserve. The
Jarawas, traditional hunter-
Boats docked at Havelock Island jetty gatherers, are probably the last
racially pure tribe left in India.
stretches of white sand. The Environs The Andaman Trunk Road
elephants found on the island Barren Island, 132 km (82 miles) winds along the island’s spine,
were originally brought here to northeast of Port Blair, has the running from Port Blair through
work the timber trade. Bikes and only active volcano in India. Bharatrang Island, famous for
scooters are available and are the After lying dormant for nearly its mud volcano and limestone
best way to explore. 200 years, it erupted twice at caves, to Middle Andaman.
The northernmost island in the the end of the 20th century, in With the welfare of the Jarawas
archipelago, Long Island, 82 km 1991 and 1994. Rising sharply in mind, there is restricted
(51 miles) north of from the sea, its public transport. The area
Port Blair, attracts enormous crater around Rangat is lush with
few visitors, perhaps continues to spew tropical forests; the town itself
because of the six- smoke. The island has only a few provision stores.
hour journey to get is now a wildlife Rangat Bay is the point of
there. It nevertheless sanctuary. There is departure for ferries to Port Blair
has attractive no public ferry and Havelock and Long Islands.
beaches. There is just service, and only Just 15 km (9 miles) away,
one rest house and chartered ferries Cuthbert Bay is a sanctuary
virtually no public make the 20-hour for hundreds of marine turtles,
transport available, A vividly coloured journey from Port which arrive here annually
although bicycles local pineapple Blair. Landing on to nest. Mayabander, at the
can be hired. North the island is not northern tip, 71 km (44 miles)
Passage Island, 55 km (34 miles) permitted, so divers are the from Rangat, is a beautiful spot.
south of Port Blair, has a beautiful only visitors, drawn by the rich Some of its beaches, such as
white sandy beach at Merk Bay. marine life. Karmatang, are famous for
their spectacular sunrises, and
are also nesting grounds for
Indigenous Tribes marine turtles.
Until the 18th century, the Andaman and Nicobar Islands
were inhabited by 12 distinct groups of aboriginal tribes. Now, 9 North Andaman
overwhelmed by the immigrant population and threatened by
disease and loss of land, their numbers have North Andaman Island. 290 km (180
fallen from 5,000 to just 800. The Mongoloid miles) N from Port Blair to Diglipur. g
Nicobarese and Shompen tribes of the from Port Blair. Travel permits: required
Nicobars probably migrated from Myanmar, for the Andamans (see pp734–5).
while the origins of the four Negrito tribes,
the Jarawas, Great Andamanese, Onges North Andaman is the least
and Sentinelese, continue to baffle populated of the three large
anthropologists. Of these, only the largest – islands. Diglipur, in the northeast,
the Nicobarese – have partially integrated is one of the few places with
into the mainstream, while the Onges and accommodation. It is known
the Great Andamanese – now increasingly for its beaches – in particular,
dependent on subsidies – live in tribal
“reserves”. The Sentinelese, from North A Jarawa tribesman Ram Nagar and Kalipur – and
Sentinel Island, are still hostile, fending off also has the islands’ highest peak,
strangers with showers of arrows. The Shompens of Great Saddle Peak (737 m/2,418 ft),
Nicobar are as wary of outsiders. Most tribal groups survived the which is a national park. A scenic
December 2004 tsunami, by following their own early warning trail leads to the peak’s summit.
systems. As the last representatives of truly independent From Aerial Bay, 9 km (6 miles)
indigenous peoples, perhaps their only chance of survival northeast of Diglipur, one
remains in self-imposed isolation. can visit Smith and Ross
islands (see p623).




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Date 5th December 2012
Size 125mm x 217mm

SOUTH INDIA  629

KERALA

Nestling between the Western Ghats and the Arabian Sea, Kerala is an
enchanting mosaic of coconut groves and paddy fields, wide beaches
and labyrinthine backwaters, verdant hills and rainforests. Its diverse
culture is enriched by the three great religions that have ancient roots
here. Hinduism is the religion of the majority, practised here with a
rare rigour that prohibits non-Hindus from entering most temples.
Christianity, followed by a quarter of the population, was brought here by
the Apostle St Thomas, while Islam was introduced by Arab traders in the 7th
century. The architectural treasures of the state include the beautiful wooden palace
at Padmanabhapuram, stately colonial buildings and a 16th-century synagogue
in Kochi. This politically conscious state, where power alternates between Left and
Centrist parties, boasts the highest literacy rate in India. Many of its people work
in the Middle East, their remittances home adding greatly to Kerala’s prosperity.


Sights at a Glance
Towns, Cities & Districts d Thalaserry
1 Thiruvananthapuram f Kannur
6 Kottayam g Kasaragod District
• Kasaragod 9 Palai Historic Sites
0 Kochi
• Bekal t Kodungallur 2 Padmanabhapuram
y Thrissur Palace
Taliparamba u Palakkad Temples & Holy Places
o Malappuram 3 Aranmula
•
Mananthavady p Kozhikode 4 Mannarsala
• Kalpetta a Wayanad District 7 Sabarimalai
Arabian • s Mahe w Kaladi
Sea Thusharagiri
• Cruises
NH212 5 Backwaters Tour
Kapad •
NH17
q Lakshadweep Islands
Beypore • National Parks & Areas
of Natural Beauty
•
Tanur NH213 8 Periyar Tiger Reserve
•
Thrithala r Eravikulam National Park
NH47 • Kollengode i Silent Valley National Park
Guruvayur • Hill Stations
e Munnar
NH49
Agatti Periyar
•
Lakshadweep • •Ettumanur 0 km 50
Islands Vaikom NH220
Alappuzha 0 miles 50
• NH47
Key
Kollam • NH208
National highway • Tuticorin
Major road Tirunelvelli • NH7A
Minor road NH7 • Tiruchendur
Major railway
State border
•
Kanniyakumari
A houseboat moored on the enchanting backwaters of Kerala For keys to symbols see back flap



628-629_EW_India.indd 629 26/04/17 11:49 am

630  SOUTH INDIA

1 Thiruvananthapuram detailing the principles of
its construction.
Kerala’s capital, known until 1991 as Trivandrum, was the The Kanakakunnu Palace,
seat of the former royal family of Travancore from 1750 to where the Travancore royal
1956. The magnificent Anantha Padmanabhaswamy Temple family once entertained their
has given the city its name, Thiruvan anthapuram – literally guests, is adjacent to the
complex, on top of a hill.
the “Holy City of Anantha”, the sacred thousand-headed A short drive down the road
serpent on whom Vishnu reclines. The city is built across from the complex leads to
seven hills, and its old quarter clusters around the temple, Kowdiar Junction, a round­
while along busy Mahatma Gandhi Road are colonial about of walls and ornate
mansions, churches and modern high-rises. railings facing the Kowdiar
Palace, the former maharaja’s
official residence.










The Napier Museum, built in the 19th century
E Government Arts and the territories of the former
Crafts (Napier) Museum kingdom of Travancore.
Museum Rd. Closed Mon, Wed am To the north of the Museum,
& public hols for all museums. is the Shri Chitra Art Gallery, A painting by Raja Ravi Varma in
& covers all museums. Kanakakunnu housed in a beautiful building Sri Chitra Art Gallery
Palace: Tel (0471) 231 4615. that incorporates the best
Located in a well­planned elements of local architecture. Mahatma Gandhi Road
compound is a complex of The pride of its collection are The city’s main road runs from
museums and the city’s zoo. the works of Raja Ravi Varma the Victoria Jubilee Town Hall
The Government Arts and Crafts (1848–1906) and his uncle Raja to the Anantha Padmanabha­
Museum, earlier known as Raja Varma, both pioneers of swamy Temple. Among the
the Napier Museum, after John a unique academy style of many impressive buildings that
Napier, a former governor of painting in India. Raja Ravi line this road are the Secre tariat,
Madras, is in a red­and­black Varma was considered the finest headquarters of the state
brick Indo­Saracenic structure, Indian artist of his time, and his government, the University
designed by Robert Fellowes mythological paintings have College and the Public Library.
Chisholm (see p573) in the inspired the popular religious The latter, founded in 1829,
19th century. It exhibits a rare prints found in many Indian has a collection of more than
collection of bronzes, stone homes. The Natural History 250,000 books and documents
sculptures, exquisite ivory Museum, to the east, has a fine in Malayalam, Hindi, Tamil and
carvings and a temple chariot, replica of a typical Kerala Nair Sanskrit. To the north, beyond
all of which were fashioned in wooden house, naluketu, the charming Connemara
Market, are the Jama Masjid,
St Joseph’s Cathedral and
Martial Arts of Kerala the Neo­Gothic building of
Constant warfare in the 11th century Christ Church.
gave rise to kalaripayattu, Kerala’s martial
arts. From it emerged two streams – the  Anantha Padmanabha­
chavverpada, suicide squads, and the swamy Temple
chekavan, warriors who fought duels to Fort area. Tel (0471) 246 4606.
the death, in order to settle the nobility’s Closed to non­Hindus. Special rules
disputes. Students learn to use weapons for clothing apply (see p738).
such as swords, spears, daggers, the urumi,
(a flexible metal sword) and wooden poles. Located within the fort that
In the final stage, the student is taught encircles the old town, this is
Kalaripayattu practice, CVN how to defeat an opponent by applying the only temple in the state
Kalari Sangham pressure to nerve points. with a towering seven­storey
gopura, which is commonly
For hotels and restaurants in this region see p703 and pp718–19


630-631_EW_India.indd 630 26/04/17 11:49 am
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VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
Practical Information
Thiruvananthapuram district.
708 km (440 miles) SW of Chennai.
* 3,301,427. n Tourist Facilitation
Centre, Museum Rd, (0471) 232
1132; TRC, opp Chaitram Hotel,
(0471) 233 0031. ( Mon–Sat.
_ Chandanakuda (Mar/Apr),
Navaratri (Sep/Oct), Soorya Dance
Festival (Oct), Nishangandhi
Dance Festival (Nov).
Imposing gopura of the Anantha Padmanabhaswamy Temple Transport
k 6 km (4 miles) W of city
seen in Tamil Nadu’s temple E Kuthiramalika Palace centre, then bus or taxi. £ @
architecture. The restrained Museum
ornamentation, however, is Fort area. Tel (0471) 247 3952.
typical of Kerala. A flagstaff Open Tue–Sun. & Extra charges for crystal throne given by the Dutch,
encased in gold stands in the photography. 8 _ Carnatic Music and another carved out of ivory.
huge courtyard. The main Festival (Jan/Feb).
corridor, which runs around This interesting museum (also E CVN Kalari Sangham
four sides of the courtyard, known as Puthen Malika) is East Fort area. Tel (0471) 247 4182.
has 324 columns and two housed in an 18th-century Open Mon–Sat. & 8
rows of granite pillars, each palace, built by Raja Swathi This training centre for
embellished with a woman Thirunal Balarama Varma, a kalaripayattu was established in
bearing a lamp (deepalakshmi). statesman, poet, musician and 1956 to revive Kerala’s martial arts
The hall also has myth ological social reformer. A fine example tradition. Each morning, students
animals, sculpted with rotating of Kerala architecture, this collect at the gymnasium (kalari)
stone balls in their jaws. Rich wooden palace has a sloping to perform a series of exercises
murals adorn the outer walls tiled roof. The wood carvings that will help them develop the
of the inner shrine, where the are particularly noteworthy, necessary combat skills. The centre
6-m (20-ft) long reclining especially the 122 horses lining also has a shrine to the deity of
Vishnu resides, with his head the eaves of the building. On martial arts, Kalari Paradevata,
towards the south and feet display are artifacts from the royal and an Ayurvedic clinic, where
towards the north. collection, including a solid students are given oil massages.
VARKALA PONMUDI,
Thiruvananthapuram Government Arts and Crafts AGASTHYAKOODAM
City Centre (Napier) Museum
MUSE UM RD
1 Government Arts and Crafts CENTRAL RD
MAIN
(Napier) Museum
2 Mahatma Gandhi Road Stadium
M A H AT MA G A N D H I R O A D ( N H 4 7 ) British
3 Anantha Padmanabhaswamy KUNNUKUZHI VAZHUTHACUD
Temple Connemara
Market
4 Kuthiramalika Palace Museum SPENCER BAKERY
5 CVN Kalari Sangham STA T UE RO AD JUNCTION JUNCTION VAZHUTHAC A UD ROAD
Secretariat
Library
THAMPANOOR H O SPITAL R D
VANCHIYUR RD PRESS ROAD THYCAUD
ARISTO RD
Airport MANJALIKULAM SS COIL ROAD
CHETTIKULANGARA RD
6 km (4 miles) Central
Bus Stand
0 metres 500 STATION R OAD THYCAUD
THAKARAPARAMBU RD
0 yards 500 Trivandrum
Central Station
PADMAVILASAM ROAD POWER HOUSE ROAD
Tank
Anantha East Fort CHENTITTA
Padmanabhaswamy Temple Bus Stand
Kuthiramalika CHALAI BAZAAR RO AD
Palace Museum CHALAI
KANYAKUMARI
CVN Kalari
Sangham KOVALAM
For keys to symbols see back flap
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632  SOUTH INDIA


Exploring Thiruvananthapuram’s
Environs

Thiruvananthapuram is the gateway to the southern tip
of India. South of the city, along the Lakshadweep Sea, are
many beach resorts, the most famous of which is Kovalam. The
Padmanabhapuram Palace (see pp634–5), the former residence
of the Travancore kings, is to the southeast, while to its north
and east are tranquil hill stations located picturesquely in the
densely forested Cardamom (Ponmudi) Hills. Thiruvananthapuram A young boy flaunts his catch,
also houses many important institutions, including the Kovalam Beach
meteorological station, which performs the task of plotting
the arrival of the Southwest Monsoon. The city is also one of swimming in the placid blue
waters, catamaran trips,
Kerala’s main centres of Ayurveda. and water sports.
L Varkala
Thiruvananthapuram district. 40 km
(25 miles) N of Thiruvananthapuram.
@ n Tourist Information Centre,
near the helipad (0471) 248 0085.
This beautiful little beach town
is better known among locals
as a major pilgrimage centre.
According to legend, the sage
Narada flung a cloth made from
the bark of a tree into the air,
Lighthouse Beach, one of the many idyllic beaches in Kovalam and it landed at the spot where
the small town of Varkala now
L Kovalam handicrafts and inexpensive stands. Narada then directed his
Thiruvananthapuram district.16 km beachwear. Despite the disciples to pray for salvation
(10 miles) S of Thiruvananthapuram. onslaughts of mass tourism, at the newly created beach,
@ n Tourism Office, (0471) Kovalam retains an inherent which came to be known as
248 0085. charm that makes it one of Papanasham Beach or the
Until the 1960s, Kovalam was India’s finest and most popular “Beach of Redemption”. Since
just a sleepy fishing village beach resorts. then, this beach has been
with narrow lanes and thatched Kovalam’s sheltered natural associated with ancestor
dwellings with wide courtyards bay is ringed by two rocky worship, as Hindus immerse
for drying fish. However, once headlands. Its three beaches – the ashes of their dead here.
its spectacular beach and Grove Beach, Eve’s Beach and At the heart of the town is
shallow, crystal-clear waters Lighthouse Beach, all within the sacred Janardhana Swamy
were discovered, it became short walking distance of Temple, believed to be more
a favourite with hippies and each other – provide visitors than 2,000 years old. This
backpackers, and over the years with their fill of sun, sea and temple, dedicated to Krishna,
acquired the reputation of sand. While the beaches to the attracts many pilgrims. One of
being a shabby, downmarket south of the promontory are the bells in the temple is said
resort. Today, however, it also more crowded, the ones to to have been given in gratitude
attracts the rich and famous, the north offer ample secluded by the captain of a 17th-century
who come here in private space for sunbathing, safe Dutch sailing ship, after his
planes. As a result, the prayers were answered.
beaches are dotted Varkala’s other
with both luxury and pilgrimage centre is
budget resorts, as well the hilltop Memorial
as cafés and several of Sree Narayana Guru
government-approved (1856–1928) at Sivagiri,
Ayurveda centres that 3 km (2 miles) east
offer anything from of the temple. Every day,
a simple massage countless devotees flock
to three-week to the memorial of this great
treatments. Hawkers, saint and social reformer,
too, have set up who advocated “one caste,
stalls selling Bananas and other fruit on sale, Varkala one religion, one god for
For hotels and restaurants in this region see p703 and pp718–19


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KER ALA  633


Festivals of Kerala
Vishu (Apr). The first day
of the Malayali New Year
is celebrated with zest
throughout the state. It
is believed that looking
upon a group of auspicious
objects at dawn ensures
a whole year of peace
and prosperity.

Long, sandy beach at Varkala Thrissur Pooram (Apr/May),
Thrissur. The highlight of
mankind”. With its backdrop gurgling brooks, adding to the this festival is the ceremonial
of red laterite cliffs overlooking charm of this peaceful place. procession of two devis
the beach, Varkala has now (goddesses) on caparisoned
emerged as a popular resort } Agasthyarkoodam elephants to the Vadakunnathan
and spa. The town is famous Thiruvananthapuram district. 60 km Temple. The parasols held above
for its natural springs with (37 miles) NE of Thiruvananthapuram. the elephants are changed in an
therapeutic qualities, and is Trekking permits: Contact the Office exciting synchronized ritual,
also a centre for Ayurvedic of the Wildlife Warden, Thiruvanantha­ accompanied by chenda melam,
an orchestra of percussion
treatment and yoga. To the puram, (0471) 236 0762. instruments. A display of
south is the desolate Anjengo At an elevation of 1,890 m (6,201 fireworks marks the climax.
Fort, the main garrison of the ft), Agasthyarkoodam is the
Dutch East India Company in highest peak in southern Kerala.
the 17th and 18th centuries. It forms part of the Western Ghats Onam (Aug/Sep). The most
and the Agasthyavanam Forest, popular of Kerala’s festivals,
} Ponmudi designated a sanctuary in 1992. Onam honours Mahabali, a
Thiruvananthapuram district. 61 km The mountain is revered by selfless ruler whose subjects
(38 miles) NE of Thiruvananthapuram. both Buddhists and Hindus, as were so content that envious
@ n Government Guesthouse, it is believed to be the abode of gods tricked him into losing
(0472) 289 0230. the Bodhisattva Avalokitesvara his life and kingdom. His last
wish was to visit his people
Ponmudi, literally “Golden (see p145), as well as of the sage once a year to ensure that they
Crown”, rises to a height of 915 m Agastya, a disciple of Shiva. were happy. During Onam, an
(3,002 ft) from the base of a Women are not allowed here. aura of plenty is created to
thick tropical forest. Surrounded The hills are rich in medicinal gladden Mahabali’s heart.
by tea estates and forested hills, herbs, and harbour many species Great feasts are prepared, new
this hill station is still unspoilt, of birds and wildlife. Trekking clothes worn, and court yards
refreshingly cool and mist­ to the top – a distance of 28 km are decorated with floral
shrouded for most of the year. (17 miles) – takes two days patterns (athapookkalam).
Its narrow winding paths and and is per mitted only between The Nehru Trophy Boat Race
verdant environs offer pleasant Dece mber and April. The summit (see p40) and other boat races
walks. Wild flowers grow in provides fine views of the lake are held at this time.
abundance on the banks of created by the Neyyar Dam.
Ayurveda Therapy
A classical text on medicine, the Ashtangahridaya, is the foundation
of Ayurveda in Kerala. Its author, Vagbhata, was the disciple of a
Buddhist physician, and received little recognition in the rest of India.
It is believed that a few Nampoothiri (Brahmin) families were the
original Ayurvedic physicians, and
their descendants still carry the
honorific title of ashtavaidyan.
Today, this holistic science of
healing is practised throughout
India. However, the Kerala
method is famous for its
five­pronged treatment,
panchakarma, in which
medicated oils, herbs, milk,
massage and a special diet are Boat races take place during the
Ayurvedic treatment in progress used to cure all types of ailments. Onam festival





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634  SOUTH INDIA

2 Padmanabhapuram Palace

Set amid lush hills, verdant paddy fields and perennial rivers,
Padmanabhapuram Palace is the finest example of Kerala’s
distinctive wooden architecture. Laid out in a sequence of four
adjoining walled compounds, comprising public and private zones,
the palace has richly carved wooden ceilings, sculpted pillars,
slatted windows, and pagoda-like tiled roofs. From 1590 to 1790,
Padmanabhapuram was the home of the the former princely state Detail from a carved
of Travancore, which straddled parts of present-day Tamil Nadu as rosewood door
well as Kerala. By some quirk of fate, this beautifully kept palace now
falls in Tamil Nadu but is maintained by the government of Kerala.

. Prayer Hall
The prayer hall, on the third
floor of the King’s Palace, has
exquisite murals on its walls.
A medicinal bed here, carved
from 64 different types of
wood, was a gift from
the Dutch.



















Entrance Hall
The entrance hall has a profusely carved
wooden ceiling with 90 different inverted
flowers, a pol ished granite bed and an
ornate Chinese throne.



KEY
1 Main Gate to the palace complex 4 The Bath House is a small airy
entrance is reached after crossing a room, where the male members of
large courtyard. This gate has a the royal family were given a massage
decorated gabled roof. before they descended, down covered
2 The clock tower’s chimes could steps, to a private tank to bathe.
be heard from a distance of 3 km 5 The dining hall, laid out over
(2 miles). two storeys, could seat 2,000 guests.
3 The Lady’s Chamber houses 6 The palace museum houses
two large swings, a pair of enormous artifacts including furniture, wooden and Entrance
Belgian mirrors and a royal bed. granite statues, weapons and utensils.


For hotels and restaurants in this region see p703 and pp718–19


634-635_EW_India.indd 634 26/04/17 11:49 am
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Carved bay window for
watching processions VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
Practical Information
Tamil Nadu state. Kanniyakumari
district. 52 km (32 miles)
SE of Thiruvananthapuram.
Tel (04651) 250 255.
Guesthouse Open Tue–Sun. & Extra charges
for photography. 8
Transport
@

















. Mother’s Palace
Built in 1550, this is the oldest
building in the complex. It
contains intricately carved
wooden pillars fashioned from
the wood of the jackfruit tree. The
floor was polished to a red gloss
with hibiscus flowers.








Lamp
A horse lamp (the
horse is a symbol of
valour) in the entrance
hall hangs suspended
0 metres 20 from a special chain
0 yards 20 that keeps the lamp
perfectly balanced.






. Council Chamber
The king’s council chamber has wooden
louvres to let in light and air. The gloss on
the floor was achieved with a mixture of
lime, sand, egg white, coconut water,
charcoal and jaggery.




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636  SOUTH INDIA

4 Mannarsala
Alappuzha district. 132 km (82 miles)
NW of Thiruvananthapuram, (0479)
216 0300. @ _ Thulam (Oct/Nov).
The custom of worshipping
snakes in Kerala reaches a
climax at Mannarsala, the best
known of the four main Naga
temples in the state. According
to legend, a woman from a
family of great Naga devotees
gave birth to two sons, one of
whom was a serpent-child, who
asked his family to worship him
An elephant being led down the steps of Aranmula’s Parthasarthy Temple and vanished. The temples at
Mannarsala, dedicated to the
3 Aranmula Aranmula is also known for its King of Snakes, Nagaraja, and
unique metal mirrors, made from his consort, Sarpayakshini, are
Pathanamthitta district. 125 km an alloy of silver, bronze copper
(78 miles) NW of Thiruvananthapuram. situated in a thick grove of
n (0468) 221 2170. @ 4 from and lead. These mirrors were tall trees and dense bushes,
Alappuzha. _ Onam Boat Regatta traditionally used as part of the surrounded by thousands
(Aug/Sep). arrangement of auspicious of hooded stone serpents
objects during Vishu, the Malayali of various styles and sizes.
This picturesque village on New Year, in April (see p633). In Kerala, the ancestral home
the banks of the Pampa river is (tharavad) of every upper-class
famous as the venue for Kerala’s Environs Namboothiri and Nair family is
magnificent snake boat races. The 14th-century Thiruva mundur supposed to have a sarpa-kavu,
The boat race festival has its Temple, near Cheng annur, 7 km or snake-grove, housing a
origins in the legend of a (4 miles) west of Aranmula nagakal or snake stone. If a
devotee who once gave is dedicated to Krishna tharavad cannot afford to
food to a Brahmin, and attributed to Nakul, maintain its own shrine, the
believed to be Vishnu one of the five Pandava snake stones are offered to
in disguise. However, brothers (see p30). Near this temple.
the Brahmin, before Chenganacherry, 27 km The holy rites at Mannarasala
disappearing, advised him (17 miles) to the northwest are conducted by a priestess
to send his offering to of Aranmula, is the (amma), a vestal virgin, who lives
Aranmula instead. Since Tirukkodittanam Temple. on the premises and is supported
then, during the festival, a This 11th-century temple is in her religious duties by
ceremonial boat, carved out of dedicated to Sahadev, Nakul’s her family.
a single block of wood, carries twin brother, and has lovely Childless couples place a
a consignment of food murals adorning its walls. bell metal vessel (uruli) face
from a nearby village to Metal mirror, It is a temple vibrant in down in front of the deities,
the temple at Aranmula. Aranmula traditional art and music. to seek their blessings.
On the last day of Onam
(see p633), this ceremonial boat
leads a procession of about 30 Sacred Serpent Shrines
snake boats to the temple. On In Kerala, the sacred serpent plays a significant role in belief and
this day, there is no racing, and ritual. Malayali folklore speaks of a wooded, rural land inhabited
all the boats arrive together, as mainly by Nagas (snakes) – the Lords of the Underworld – who
Krishna is said to be present were overthrown by the Brahmin settlers brought here by
on each boat at the same time. Parasurama (see p683), the sixth incarnation of Vishnu. This
The Parthasarathy Temple, mythological incident is the origin of snake worship in Kerala,
one of the state’s five most since, after their defeat,
important temples, is ded icated Parasurama ordered that
to Krishna, and has an image snakes be accorded divine
of the god as Partha sarathy, the status. Most temples thus
Divine Charioteer in the great have a niche for a snake
god, amid dense sacred
epic, the Maha bharata (see p30). groves of ancient trees.
The image was bro ught here on The old ancestral homes
a raft made of six bamboos, and (tharavads) also have
this is what the town’s name private temples or groves Sacred grove with snake (naga) images,
signifies – in Malayalam aaru for a snake deity. Mannarsala Temple
means six and mula, bamboo.
For hotels and restaurants in this region see p703 and pp718–19


636-637_EW_India.indd 636 26/04/17 11:49 am
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Boats of Kerala

Kerala’s ancient boat-building industry is a specialized part of its rich wood-working
tradition, that also includes architecture (see pp642–3). Boats built at Beypore (see p657)
were highly prized and used by Arab merchants. The construction of a boat is always
begun on an auspicious day in the Malayalam calendar, and is marked by an invocation
to the gods. The most sought-after wood is anjili (Artocarpus hirsuta), though teak
is also used. Racing boats of various sizes and shapes participate in the annual
Onam regatta at Aranmula. Of these, the most magnificent is the long, narrow
chundanvallam, or snake boat.
Boat Building
A master craftsman,
assisted by a team
traditionally drawn
from different religions,
builds the boat.
No nails or metal
pieces are used; only
wooden pegs and
joints hold the
parts together.

Snake Boat Races Rowing is perfectly
Snake boats (chundan vallam), synchronized to the
once used to carry warriors, now pulsating rhythm of
participate in what is believed vanchipattu (boatmen’s
to be the world’s largest team songs). Their themes
sport. The Nehru Trophy Boat are devotional, myth­
Race (see p40), introduced in ological, or related
1952, is the most famous. to rural life.
Amaram, the stern, is
The prow of the Singers
boat is normally decorated with brass
manned by four studs and inlay work.
boatmen. Oarsmen



















Canoes, usually made from a single log
Kettuvallams are now often converted into houseboats. of wood, can carry no more than one or
Kettu means a bundle, while vallam is a big boat. two people. They are commonly used to
Originally, these were used as ferries or to carry rice. transport light cargo, such as coir fibre.





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638  SOUTH INDIA


5 Backwaters Tour
Alappuzha • Vembanad Lake
A cruise along the backwaters is one of the most
enchanting experiences that Kerala offers. Exploring this Ambalapulai •
labyrinthine network of waterways, which weave through
villages set amidst lush vegetation, offers glimpses of Arabian
• Alamkaduvu
Kerala’s unique rural lifestyle, where land and water are Sea Kayamkulam Kayal
inseparable. The most popular back waters tour is from Karunagapalli •
Kollam (Quilon), situated between Ashtamudi Lake and Ashtamudi
Lake
the Arabian Sea, to Alappuzha (Alleppey) on the edge •
of Vembanad Lake. The choice of transport ranges from Kollam
local ferries and speedboats to kettuvallams (see p637). Locator Map
Water
hyacinths are
the cause of
a serious
ecological
problem since
their untamed
growth has
clogged the
waterways of
Kuttanad, the
rice bowl
of Kerala.











Children going to school by boat are a
common sight. Various types of boats are
used as transport along the backwaters,
connecting the small villages with the mainland.

Coconut palms fringe the waterways.
In addition to coconuts, rice is cultivated
extensively in Kuttanad, the area between
Kottayam and Alappuzha.











Houses along a canal have jetties with moored boats. Coconut Lagoon is a wonderful resort
The ground and water levels are often equal, which on Vembanad Lake, near the bird
makes flooding a problem during the monsoon. sanctuary in Kumarakom.

For hotels and restaurants in this region see p703 and pp718–19


638-639_EW_India.indd 638 26/04/17 11:49 am
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Toddy tappers are
expert at scaling coconut Tips for Passengers
palms. The local brew, Route 1: Kollam to Alappuzha
made from fermented Dep: 10:30am. Maximum
coconut palm sap, is Duration: 8 hrs. n District
sold in shacks along the Tourism Promotion Council
waterways. The first brew (DTPC), Kollam, (0474) 274 5625.
is light and delicious – Route 2: Alappuzha to Kollam
however, potency levels Dep: 10:30am. Maximum
rise with subsequent Duration: 8 hrs. n DTPC,
fermentation.
Alappuzha, (0477) 225 3308.
For more details, see p757.










Chinese fishing nets along the backwaters
are used to trap fish. A popular fish in Kerala,
karimeen (pearl spot), is found in these waters.









Children with banana trunks playing in the water
Backwaters
According to legend, Parasurama, the sixth
incarnation of Vishnu, created Kerala by throwing
his battle axe into the sea. The abundance of
canals, lagoons and lakes in the state seems to
reinforce this legend of a land born from the sea.






In this coir-
producing
village, women
beat the husk
and spin the
fibre to make
ropes or floor
coverings. The
fibre is often
dyed to create Coconut husks soak in the shallow waters near the
brightly coloured banks. This softens the husks before they are beaten
mats with geo­ to produce the fine fibre that is turned into coir. The
metric designs. flesh is converted into oil, or used in cooking.
Tea gardens surrounding the Mattupetty Lake, Munnar



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6 Kottayam
Kottayam district. 160 km (99 miles) N
of Thiruvananthapuram. * 1,974,551.
£ @ n District Tourist Promotion
Council, (0481) 256 0479.
Enclosed by the blue waters of
Vembanad Lake and the paddy
fields of Kuttanad to its west,
and by the lush hills of the
Western Ghats to its east,
Kottayam is one of Kerala’s most
beautiful districts. Its climate
and landscape have combined Mural from the stately Shiva temple at Ettumanur
to make the region prosperous.
Kottayam town is surrounded about 2 km (1 mile) north Environs
by extensive plantations of of the city centre, and have Mannanam, 8 km (5 miles) north
rubber, and other valuable cash colourful frescoes adorning of Kottayam, is associated with
crops such as tea, coffee, their walls. The Nestorian cross the Syrian Catholic saint and
cardamom and pepper. The first at Valia Palli is said to have social reformer Father Kuriakose
town in India to attain 100 per come from Kerala’s first church, Elias Chavara (1805–71), and was
cent literacy, it is also the founded by St Thomas at the seat of the first seminary of
birthplace of Kerala’s publishing Kodungallur (see p653). Cheria the Malabar Church in 1833.
industry and home to many Palli has lovely painted panels Kumarakom, a beautiful
Malayalam newspapers and behind its main altar, depicting backwater village, is 12 km
magazines. A popular writers’ scenes from the life of the (7 miles) west of Kottayam.
co-operative society, the Sahitya Virgin Mary. A great variety of birds can be
Pravarthaka Sahakarana seen at the bird sanctuary here.
Sangham, which was set up A large temple dedicated
here in 1945, has played a to Shiva at Ettumanur, 12 km
cardinal role in fostering the (7 miles) north of Kottayam, has
growth of Malayalam literature. beautiful murals, similar to those
Kottayam also has an old found at Mattancherry Palace
Christian tradition that has in Kochi (see p646). The 11th-
been preserved by its large century Mahadeva Temple
Syrian Christian population. at Vaikom, 40 km (25 miles)
It was one of the first towns to northwest of Kottayam, is
be patronized by St Thomas famous for its elephant
(see p577) in the 1st century AD. pageants and traditional dance
Of the many fine churches performances, which take place
and seminaries that dot the between November and
landscape, the best known December each year. It is also
are the two Syrian Orthodox the site where Mahatma Gandhi
churches, Valia Palli and led an important satyagraha
Cheria Palli, both dating back (civil disobedience movement)
to the mid-16th century. The Nestorian cross at Valia Palli which aimed to make temples
churches stand on a hillock, Church, Kottayam accessible to untouchables.

Wooden Architecture in Kerala Brackets are often carved
The importance of wooden architecture as yalis, or figures of gods
in Kerala is evident in legends that glorify and goddesses.
the master carpenter, Perunthachhan.
Palaces, temples, mosques and homes
all have characteristic sloping tiled roofs
to drain away the heavy rains during
the monsoon. Roofs are generally
hipped, often with decorated gables,
topped by brass pot finials. To achieve Wooden pillars
height, they rise in two or more are ornate. These
superimposed tiers to create steeply are decorative as
pyramidal profiles. Joints and wooden well as functional,
pegs, instead of nails, are used. as they support
Temple with pyramidal roof the roof.

For hotels and restaurants in this region see p703 and pp718–19


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KER ALA  643

9 Palai
Kottayam district. 175 km (109 miles)
N of Thiruvananthapuram. @
n (0481) 256 0479. _ Epiphany
(6 Jan). St Thomas Church: 5
(Malayalam) 6am daily.
The prosperous town of
Palai is surrounded by thick
rubber plantations. The small
16th-century St Thomas
Church is its main attraction.
Constructed in the traditional
style of early Christian churches
in Kerala, it has a quaint wooden
Baroque façade of St Thomas Church, at Palai pulpit with a fish-like base, an
elaborately carved main altar
7 Sabarimalai metals, and lead to the sanctum. and two simpler side altars.
Only those who have observed A stone slab carries inscriptions
Pattanamthitta district. 191 km
(119 miles) N of Thiruvananthapuram. 41 days of penance (celibacy, in Syriac. Attractive glass
@ to Pamba, then by foot. wearing black and and not candelabra are suspended from
n (04735) 202 048. _ Mandalam shaving) are entitled to wall brackets, while a chandelier
(Nov–Jan), Makaravilakku (mid-Jan). undertake the pilgrimage. hangs from the ceiling. There is
a wooden balcony at the rear.
One of India’s most famous 8 Periyar Tiger Services are still held in the
pilgrimage centres, Sabarimalai Reserve church. Adjoining this building
lies in the Western Ghats at an is a modern church, which is
altitude of 914 m (2,999 ft). The See pp644–5. also dedicated to St Thomas.
final 14-km (9-mile) approach
from Pamba, through dense
forest, is made on foot. The Ayyappa Cult
The focus of devotion here A Dravidian deity worshipped throughout Kerala, Ayyappa (or
is the temple dedicated to Sastha) was born out of the union between Shiva and Vishnu (who
the popular deity, Ayyappa. had transformed himself into a woman, Mohini). The baby, found
The temple stays open from on the banks of the Pamba river, was adopted by the childless king
Nov ember to mid-January, in of Pandalam. Ayyappa later
April and during the first five revealed his divine status when
days of each month of the he destroyed a demon. Before
Malayalam calendar. People of returning to his heavenly abode,
all reli gions can worship here, however, the god shot an arrow
into the air, and it landed near
but women between the ages the ashram of the sage Sabari,
of 10 and 50 are restricted from where a temple was built.
entering. The final 18 sacred Ayyappa’s warrior friend, Vavar,
steps (each representing a sin is a Muslim saint whose dargah
that a devotee renounces on nearby is visited by both
setting foot on it) are sheathed Muslims and Hindus. Ayyappa devotees, Sabarimalai
in panchaloha, an alloy of five









Ceilings are divided
into panels carved Interiors of koothambalams
with lotus designs or Koothambalams, traditional theatres, have tall wooden pillars
Hindu deities, such as are usually situated in the precincts of and jalis on three sides for
Brahma, surrounded large temples and palaces. They serve ventilation. The roof is specially
by dikpalas, who are as the venue for staging Koodiyattam designed to provide excellent
guardian figures. (dance-drama) performances. acoustic quality.





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644  SOUTH INDIA

8 Periyar Tiger Reserve

The construction of the Mullaperiyar Dam across the
Periyar river at Thekkady, in 1895, submerged large tracts
of land and created a huge lake, covering an area of 26 sq
km (10 sq miles). Years later, in 1935, the then-Maharaja of
Travancore declared 600 sq km (232 sq miles) of forest
surrounding the lake a wildlife sanctuary. The Periyar Lake
now forms the nucleus of the ecosystem of the sanctuary,
which, over the years, has been expanded to 777 sq km Visitors viewing wildlife from a boat on
(300 sq miles). Declared a Tiger Reserve in 1978, the Periyar Lake
sanctuary is a rare example of human interference having Idukki Madurai
enhanced, rather than damaged, an ecosystem.
Kumily
NH 220

Mangaladevi
Temple
Thekkady
Kottayam





Lake Palace
The former hunting lodge of the Maharaja
of Travancore is now a delightful hotel inside Edapalayam
the sanctuary.
J
Manakarala
J



Periyar Periyar Lake
Dam Mullakkudy


Birdlife
The petrified tree trunks that
jut out from the lake make
convenient perches for birds
looking out for fish.


Thannikudi
Periyar
0 kilometres 2
0 miles 1


Wildlife
The deciduous forests, grasslands and tropical
evergreen interiors of Periyar are the habitat of the
endangered lion-tailed macaque (left), as well as
Indian bison (gaur), sloth bears and the slender loris.
For hotels and restaurants in this region see p703 and pp718–19


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KER ALA  645


VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
Practical Information
Idukki district. 190 km (118 miles)
N of Kochi. n Forest Divisional
Office, Kumily (04869) 22 2028,
Tourist Information Centre, Kumily
(04869) 224 571. & 8 
∑ keralatourism.org
Transport
@ 4
Madurai Herds of Elephants
Idukki
The lake, a year-round source of water, and the abundant grassland
make the sanctuary an ideal habitat for elephants, which now number
Kumily approximately 800.
NH 220
Mangaladevi The Mangaladevi Temple, 15 km
Temple (9 miles) east of Thekkady, lies at a
J height of 1,337 m (4,386 ft), and
Thekkady offers excellent panoramic views
Kottayam of the forested hills of the Ghats.

Indian Giant Squirrel
This agile squirrel can make
amazing leaps that cover about
6 m (20 ft). It is found in Periyar’s
deciduous and evergreen forests.
Edapalayam

Manakarala




Periyar Periyar Lake
Dam Mullakkudy
J
Periyar Lake
Two-hour boat cruises on the mist-
shrouded lake offer excellent
opportunities for spotting wildlife,
especially herds of elephants.




Thannikudi
J
Periyar
Key
National highway
Major road Orchids
Minor road Periyar is known for its many species of
flowering plants, including nearly 150
species of orchids. The rare orchid
Habeneria periyarencis, named after the
region, is found only here.
For keys to symbols see back flap


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646  SOUTH INDIA

0 Kochi displays palanquins and textiles.
The adjacent bedrooms and
Kochi, better known as Cochin, is Kerala’s most cosmopolitan chambers are renowned for
city. It is also its main trading centre for spices and seafood. their fine 17th-century murals,
Built around a saltwater lagoon of the Arabian Sea, Kochi is representative of Kerala’s temple
in fact a collection of narrow islands and peninsulas. While art. Painted in rich, warm shades
of red, yellow, black and white,
mainland Ernakulam boasts of concrete shopping malls and they depict religious and
glitzy apartment buildings, Mattancherry and Fort Kochi have mythological themes as well as
an old world charm, with their blend of Dutch, Portuguese and episodes from the Ramayana.
English bungalows and quaint narrow streets (see pp648–9).
The scenic location of Kochi’s natural harbour, surrounded by u Paradesi Synagogue
Jew Town. Tel (0471) 232 1132.
palm groves, green fields, inland lakes and backwaters, has Open Sun–Thu. &
enchanted visitors from across the globe for centuries. Nestling in a cul-de-sac at the
end of a narrow lane, in the heart
P Mattancherry Palace of Jew Town, is India’s oldest
Jew Town. Tel (0484) 222 6085. synagogue. The first Jewish
Open Sat–Thu. settlers are said to have reached
The Mattancherry Palace, Kodungallur (see p653) in the
constructed by the Portuguese 1st century AD. Their settlement,
in the mid-1550s, was given to then known as Shingly,
the ruler of Cochin as a token prospered over the centuries.
of goodwill in exchange for However, persecution by the
trading rights. It was later Portuguese in the early 16th
renovated by the Dutch, century forced them to migrate
and so gained the misnomer, to Cochin, where they settled
Dutch Palace. The two-storeyed on land given by the raja, and
structure, built around a built a synagogue in 1568.
courtyard with a small shrine to Cochin’s Jewish community was
the goddess Bhagavati, is today divided into two distinct groups
a museum with a rare collection – the so-called Black or Malabari
of murals and royal artifacts. Jews, who claimed to be
In the central Durbar Hall, descendants of the original
where coronation ceremonies settlers, and the White or
Murals from the 17th century, were once held, is the portrait Paradesim Jews, who came here
Mattancherry Palace gallery of the Kochi rulers; it also from the Middle East, and after

Kochi City Centre
0 metres 500 Bolghatty HighCourt Bus Station
1 Mattancherry Palace Island Jetty 2 km (1 mile)
2 Paradesi Synagogue 0 yards 500 Bolghatty Palace Airport
Hotel
36 km
3 Kochi International Vypeen Vypeen Island SHANMUGHAM RD (22 miles)
Ferry Jetty
Pepper Exchange Island
4 St Francis Church Govt Jetty Vembanad Lake Railway
Station
5 Willingdon Island 2 km (1 mile)
6 Bolghatty Island CALVATH Y RD Customs ERNAKULAM
Chottanikkara
CHU RCH RO AD Embarkation Main Boat PARK AVENUE
Temple
Jetty
Jetty
Jetty
FORT
St Francis KOCHI BRIDGE RD BAZAR Willingdon
Island
Church
Santa Cruz I ND IR A G A N DH I R D
ROAD AD
Cathedral TOWN HALL RO Jain Terminus A G M I L N E R O A D Thripunithura
Jetty
Temple
K.B. JACOB ROAD AMARAVATHI ROAD CHERALAI ROAD TOWN Palace JEW TOWN RD Paradesi Mattancherry BRISTOW RD South
Mattancherry
Jetty
L G PAI ROAD
PAL ACE RD
JEW
Jetty
R G PAI ROAD
Synagogue
Cochin Harbour
Terminus Railway
Kochi International
Pepper Exchange
JAWAHAR Station
SANTO GOPALANL RD RD SYNAGOGUE LANE Street-by-Street area:
L a k s h d e e p S e a
M K RAGHAVAN RD MOULANA AZAD ROAD Key
BEACH R O AD
STATUE ROAD
For keys to symbols see back flap see pp648–9
646-647_EW_India.indd 646 26/04/17 11:50 am
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K OCHI  647


Today, most of these house VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
antiques shops.
Practical Information
P Kochi International Ernakulam district. 222 km
Pepper Exchange (138 miles) N of
Jew Town. Tel (0484) 222 4263. Passes Thiruvananthapuram.
required to enter hall. Open Mon–Sat. * 612,300. n Tourist Information
This unique establishment Centre, (0484) 236 0502; TRC,
reverberates with voices, near Ernakulam jetty (0484) 235
seemingly raised in anger, as 3234. _ Onam (Aug/Sep).
one ascends the stairs. However, Transport
nothing prepares the visitor for k 36 km (22 miles) E of city
what lies within – the small hall centre, then bus or taxi. £
is lined with tiny cubicles, each
with a man talking animatedly
on a telephone. Theatrical gestures port. Situated between Fort Kochi,
Main hall with brass pulpit and blue-tiled accom panied by a loud cacophony Mattancherry and Ernakulam, it
floor, Paradesi Synagogue of sounds mark the drama of has some good hotels, as well
each day’s pepper auction. as the main harbour, the Port
whom the synagogue is named. Trust building and the customs
A third, smaller group, the Brown R St Francis Church house. It is also an important
or Meshuhurarum Jews, Fort Kochi. Tel (0484) 221 7505. naval base.
descended from converted Open Mon–Sat, after 11:30am Sun.
slaves, many of whom were in 5 (English) 8am, daily. Bolghatty Island
the spice trade. In 1940, there Established in the early 1500s Bolghatty Palace Hotel: Tel (0484) 275
were 2,500 Jews in Kerala, but by the Portuguese (who called 0500. 0 open to non-residents.
today only a few families remain; it Santo Antonio), this is one of A narrow strip of land, this
the rest having migrated to Israel. India’s earliest Euro pean churches, beautiful island with breath-
The present synagogue, with with a simple façade that became taking views of the bay, is the
its tiled roof and clock tower, was the model for later churches. Taken location of Bolghatty Palace.
rebuilt in 1664 with Dutch help, over by the Dutch and then the Set in 6 ha (15 acres) of lush
after the Portuguese destroyed British, it is today affiliated to green lawns, this palatial
it in 1662. The synagogue’s the Church of South India. structure was originally built
treasures include beautiful silver Within are numerous by the Dutch in 1744 and later
and gold Torah scrolls, a multitude gravestones with inscriptions, became the home of the British
of hanging oil lamps and crystal the earliest a Portuguese epitaph, Resident. It has now been
chandeliers, and a superbly dated 1562. Vasco da Gama converted into a hotel.
crafted brass pulpit. The floor is (see p657) was buried here in
covered with exquisite hand- 1524, until his body was taken Environs
painted blue willow-pattern tiles, to Portugal 14 years later. Kochi’s bustling business centre,
HighCourt
Bolghatty Jetty Bus Station which were brought from Canton Ernakulam, is 10 km (6 miles)
Island 2 km (1 mile)
Bolghatty Palace Airport in the mid-18th century by a Willingdon Island east of Fort Kochi. The Hill Palace
Hotel 36 km
Vypeen Island (22 miles) powerful merchant, Ezekiel Rahabi. This man-made island, named at Thripunithura, 10 km (6 miles)
Vypeen Ferry Jetty SHANMUGHAM RD The narrow lanes around after the viceroy, Lord Willingdon, southeast of Ernakulam, was
Island
Railway the synagogue are crammed was created in the 1920s out of built in 1895 and was the official
Govt Jetty Station
Vembanad Lake 2 km (1 mile) with Dutch-style residences. silt dredged to deepen Kochi residence of the former rulers of
ERNAKULAM Cochin. The palace, set in
CALVATH Y RD Customs Chottanikkara spacious grounds, is now a
CHU RCH RO AD Jetty Embarkation Main Boat PARK AVENUE museum with a fairly good
Temple
Jetty
Jetty
FORT
collection of paintings, manu-
Island
St Francis KOCHI BRIDGE RD BAZAR Willingdon scripts and royal memorabilia.
Church
Santa Cruz I ND IR A G A N DH I RD The exquisite floor tiles differ
ROAD AD
Cathedral TOWN HALL RO Jain Terminus A G M I L N E R O A D Thripunithura from room to room, and the
Jetty
Temple
sweeping wooden staircases
K.B. JACOB ROAD AMARAVATHI ROAD CHERALAI ROAD TOWN Palace JEW TOWN RD Paradesi Mattancherry BRISTOW RD South have a grandeur all of their own.
Mattancherry
Jetty
PAL ACE RD
L G PAI ROAD
The 10th-century Chottanikkara
JEW
R G PAI ROAD
Jetty
Synagogue
Temple, dedicated to the god dess
Cochin Harbour
Terminus Railway
Kochi International
Pepper Exchange
popular deities, is 16 km (10 miles)
JAWAHAR Station Bhagavati, one of Kerala’s most
SANTO GOPALANL RD RD SYNAGOGUE LANE E Thripunithura Museum
northeast of Ernakulam.
L a k s h d e e p S e a
M K RAGHAVAN RD MOULANA AZAD ROAD
BEACH R O AD
Tel (0484) 278 1113. Open Tue–Sun.
Antiques shops lining the narrow lanes in Jew Town
STATUE ROAD
For hotels and restaurants in this region see p703 and pp718–19
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648  SOUTH INDIA


Street-by-Street: Fort Kochi

Kochi’s natural harbour, created by a massive flood in 1341,
attracted imperialists and merchants from all over the world.
In the 16th century, the Portuguese built a fort here, which was
later occupied by the Dutch and then the British. Today, this
quarter, with its mixture of architectural styles, encapsulates
Fort Kochi’s tumul tuous history. The most important building
here is St Francis Church, erected by the Portuguese in 1502
and considered to be among the oldest churches built
by Europeans in India. This area has now been declared
a Heritage Zone to preserve its many historic buildings.
. Santa Cruz Cathedral
Built in 1887, this cathedral has
Kashi Art Café impressive murals on its ceiling.
This charming
restaurant, in
an old Dutch
building, houses
an art gallery.
C E L L I S T R E E T



P E T E R
B A S T I O N S T R E E T
P R I N C E S S S T R E E T
T O W E R R O A D





Mattancherry R I V E R R O A D


C H U R C H


















Koder House
The residence of Satu Koder, patriarch
of Kochi’s Jews, was built by his . Chinese Fishing Nets
ancestors in 1808. It has now been First erected between 1350 and 1450, these can tilevered fishing
converted into a boutique hotel. nets indicate trade links with China.
For hotels and restaurants in this region see p703 and pp718–19


648-649_EW_India.indd 648 26/04/17 11:50 am
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