(DK Eyewitness) Travel Guide - India

The his T o r y o f i ndia  49

Southern Dynasties (AD 600–1200) as far as Cambodia, Annam, Java, Sumatra,
In the Deccan and South India too several Malaysia and China.
dynasties existed between 600 and 1200 In religion, this was a period of
AD. A new Pallava dynasty had risen to questioning and ferment. From
power in the 6th century, at Kanchipuram. the 7th century, itinerant
In 642, the Pallava ruler Narasimha Varman I Tamil poet-saints known as
defeated and killed the Chalukya king Alvaras and Nayannars,
Pulakeshin II, after which the great Chalukya devotees of Vishnu and
kingdom declined. Shiva respectively, preached
In the late 9th century, the Cholas against caste divisions and
(see pp50–51), who had gone into decline in orthodox Brahmanical practices,
the 4th century, reasserted their power. and emphasized a personal
They defeated the Pallavas, the Western union with god through love
Ganga dynasty which ruled near Mysore, and devotion (bhakti). Their
and the Pandyas of Madurai, and teachings had great
established their supremacy in the south. popular appeal. Other
They would later be challenged by the influ ential sages were
Hoysalas of Karnataka (see p527) who came Adi Shankaracharya (see Bronze image of a
to power in the 12th century. p652) who travelled across Nayannar saint,
13th century
As in northern India in this period, trade the country, elaborating on
flourished in the south, despite constant the ideas contained in the Upanishads (see
wars. The Pallavas’ maritime trade extended p45) and challenging Buddhism, Jainism
and the bhakti cult; and the 11th-century
philosopher Ramanuja, who expanded on
Shankaracharya’s teachings. By the 12th
century, with the reforms and revival that
had taken place in Hinduism, Buddhism
went into decline, except in Eastern India.
Great monuments were built in the
Deccan and South India in this period,
among them the magnificent temples of
the Pallavas at Mamallapuram (see pp582–5)
and Kanchipuram (see p586), and the
monolithic image of the Jain saint Bahubali
at Shravana Belagola (see p526) erected
by the Western Ganga kings. In the
southwest, the superb rock-cut Kailasanatha
Temple (see pp480–81) was built at Ellora
Impressive exterior of the Shore Temple of the Pallavas
in Mamallapuram by the Rashtrakutas.

Image of Surya from Konark 1192
Prithviraj
974–1233 998–1030 1110–1342 Chauhan
Rule of Invasions of 1032 Adinatha Hoysala rule defeated by
Paramaras Mahmud Temple, Mount Abu, Muhammad
of Malwa of Ghazni built under Solankis of Ghur
900 950 AD 1000 1050 1100 1150 1200
974–1238 1050
973–1192 Rule of Ramanuja 1076–1438 Eastern Prithviraj
Rule of Solankis of preaches his Gangas of Odisha build Chauhan
Chauhans Gujarat Vaishnava Konark and Puri
of Ajmer philosophy




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50  INTRODUCING INDIA

The Chola Dynasty

Between the 9th and 13th centuries, South India was
dominated by the Chola dynasty, whose extensive empire
covered much of peninsular India. Their two greatest kings
were Rajaraja I (985–1014) and Rajendra I (1014–1044), under
whom literature, architecture and sculpture reached new
heights. They built magnificent temples, endowed them
with land and enormous wealth, and these became the focal
point of their economy, as well as their social and cultural
life. In 1216, the Cholas were defeated by the Pandyas, King Rajaraja I
who then became the dominant power in South India. The first great Chola king,
Rajaraja I (above) subdued
other southern kingdoms
Infrastructure and conquered Sri Lanka.
The Cholas’ irrig ation
dams on the Kaveri
river (see p605)
ensured the fertility
of their lands. Civil
and military officials,
provincial chieftains,
and elected village
committees formed
part of their
highly efficient
administration.
Wrestlers
formed
part of the
Chola army.


Chola Warriors
This panel from the temple at Darasuram
(see p597) celebrates the martial skills of
the Cholas. Rajaraja I had a huge army
of 31 regiments, which included elephant
Two faces of a copper coin of Rajaraja I and horse cavalry, as well as foot soldiers.


The Chola Empire
Mathura • C H I N A
I N D I A Ganges • Nalanda The Cholas established
the largest empire in
Narmada Tamralipti • MYANMAR India since the Gupta
M ahan adi
Sopara • empire in the 4th–6th
Bay of THAILAND centuries AD. After
Aihole Bengal
Arabian • Krishna CAMBODIA defeating the rulers of
Godavari
Cholas • Kanchipuram Andaman • Angkhor the Deccan, Odisha,
Sea Badami •
Kochi Islands Bihar and Bengal, they
• • Gangaikondacholapuram Andaman
Thanjavur • • Nagappattinam Sea sent naval expeditions
Madurai • to extend their
Lakshadweep • Anuradhapura Nicobar
Islands SRI LANKA Islands Penang influence over Sri Lanka,
Island
Barus • MALAYSIA the Maldives, Malaysia,
Maldive Indian Java and Sumatra. They
Key Islands Ocean also had trade and
Sumatra
Extent of the Chola Kingdom diplomatic relations
INDONESIA with China, Cambodia
Chola Expeditions
Java and Myanmar.
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THE HIST OR Y OF INDIA  51


Architecture
The Brihadishvara Temple (see pp602–603) at
Thanjavur, King Rajaraja I’s capital, represents
the zenith of Chola temple architecture, which
is distinguished by its monumental scale and
towering sculpted spires and gateways.





Sculpture
This Ardhanarishvara (half
man, half woman) image
of Shiva, symbolizing the
union of male and female
aspects, exemplifies the
superb grace of Chola
bronze sculpture. Other
famous sculptures portray
queens, princely warriors,
scenes from Shaivite
texts, and Shiva as
Nataraja, the God
of Dance.











Religion
The Chola kings, who spent lavishly on
Soldiers used religion, worshipped Shiva, but Vishnu
swords and worship was also popular in South India.
shields with This stone sculpture of Harihara, a
great skill.
composite of Shiva and Vishnu, symbolizes
a bridge between the two sects.














Seat of Power
Gangaikondacholapuram (see p596) was built in 1035 by
King Rajendra I as his new capital, after his successful military Dance and Music
expedition to the Gangetic Valley in northern India. The Hundreds of musicians and dancers
temple here, watched over by Shiva’s bull Nandi, also served performed at the Chola temples every
as a treasury, and a cultural and educational centre. evening, under royal patronage.




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52  INTRODUCING INDIA

The Coming of Islam (1206–1555) His successors included Iltutmish and Balban
Constant internal warfare between the (see p97). Next came the Khiljis (1290–1320),
different kingdoms, in the north as well whose ruler Alauddin conquered Gujarat,
as the south, had left them vulnerable to Rajasthan and Bengal, and made the kings of
outside attack. From the 11th century, a the Deccan and South India his tributaries.
volatile political situation in Central Asia, After the Khiljis came the Tughluqs (1320–
coupled with tales of India’s fabulous 1414), whose second ruler, Muhammad bin
wealth, fuelled a new wave of invasions Tughluq, completed the conquest of the
by Muslim Turkic rulers from the northwest. Deccan (see p479) and South India, and
Many of them stayed on in India annexed them. But he was unable to
to found dynasties, and maintain control over these distant areas,
with them came soldiers, which soon began to reassert their indepen­
scholars and merchants, dence. This process was accelerated by the
as well as artists and Sufi devastating invasion of northern India by
preachers, who brought Timur of Samarkand in 1398, which further
new ideas in art, weakened the power of the Delhi Sultans.
architecture, theology The last two Sultanate dynasties, the
Ceramic tile detail, and warfare from the Islamic Sayyids (1413–1451) and the Lodis
Lodi period
world. These were to have a (1451–1526), were riven by infighting
lasting impact on religion, art, culture and among their nobles, and had only a
history in the Indian subcontinent. tenuous hold over their territories.
The first major invader was Mahmud
of Ghazni, who raided India repeatedly Independent Kingdoms
between 998–1030, and took back vast During the early years of the Delhi Sultans,
wealth from its defeated rulers. He was a number of independent kingdoms, such
followed by Muhammad of Ghur, who as the Solankis in Gujarat, the Eastern
conquered Punjab and Delhi, and Gangas in Odisha, and the Kakatiyas,
established his control over areas earlier Pandyas and Hoysalas of the Deccan and
dominated by Rajputs, after defeating South India had been absorbed into
Prithviraj Chauhan in 1192. He was the Sultanate. However, as the
succeeded by his slave, Tughluqs began to
Qutbuddin Aibak (1206– decline, many
1210), who founded the new independent
first of many Muslim states emerged.
dynasties, collecti vely The Hindu
known as the Delhi Vijayanagar Empire
Sultanate. Qutbuddin (see pp534–5) in
built the towering southern India
Qutb Minar in Delhi. The 13th-century Qutb Minar in Delhi established its

1206–1290 Rule 1288–93 Venetian Tughluq coin
of first dynasty of traveller Marco Polo
Delhi Sultans visits South India 1336–1565
Vijayanagar Empire
1320–1414 Rule
1228 Ahoms of Tughluqs 1347–1518 Bahmani kingdom
rule in Assam
1250 1300 1350 1400 1450
1296–1316 Reign of 1327 Transfer 1398 Timur’s 1440–1518
Alauddin Khilji of capital invasion 1394–1505 Kabir, saint­
from Delhi Rule of
1206–1210 to Daulatabad Sharqis of poet of
Qutbuddin Aibak 1345–1538 Rule of Jaunpur the Bhakti
builds the Qutb Minar Sultanate weaponry Ilyas Shahis of Bengal Movement



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THE HIST OR Y OF INDIA  53


independence in 1336, while developed at places such as
the Muslim kingdom of the Ahmedabad, Mandu, and the
Bahmani sultans was founded Muslim kingdoms of the Deccan.
in 1347 in the Deccan, by a In religion, mystical Sufi sects
Tughluq noble. By the early 16th and saint-poets of the Bhakti
century, the Bahmani kingdom Movement, such as Meerabai and
had broken up into the five Kabir, popularized the practice
smaller Muslim kingdoms of The 14th-century Sufi of religion as devotion to God,
Bijapur, Ahmadnagar, Golconda, saint Nizamuddin rejecting caste hierarchies. Guru
Berar and Bidar. In 1565, the Nanak (1469–1539) founded the
combined forces of three of these kingdoms Sikh religion (see p107), taking elements from
defeated the Vijayanagar forces, after which the Bhakti Movement and Islam.
this powerful Hindu empire declined.
Meanwhile, as the Delhi Sultanate declined, The Coming of the Mughals
its nobles and governors rebelled and In 1526 Babur, a Central Asian prince
founded their own kingdoms in Bengal descended from Timur, and a brilliant military
(1388), Gujarat (1407), Mandu (1401) and campaigner, marched into India and
Jaunpur (1408). In northeast India, the overthrew the Lodis at the historic battle of
Ahoms, who had migrated from Myanmar Panipat, laying the foundations of the Mughal
in 1228, established a kingdom in Assam Empire. Mughal rule was briefly interrupted
(see p336). In Rajasthan too, several Rajput when Babur’s son Humayun was overthrown
kingdoms, such as Mewar (see p402) in 1540 by an Afghan chieftain, Sher Shah
and Marwar (see p384), reasserted Suri. But Humayun regained his throne in
their independence. 1555, and it was left to his son Akbar to
consolidate and expand the Mughal Empire.
New Cultural Influences The next two emperors, Jahangir and Shah
Despite the turbulence throughout India Jahan, left a legacy of magnificent art and
between the 13th and 15th centuries, architecture. Aurangzeb, the last great
several new methods and technologies in Mughal, expanded the empire by adding
agriculture, irrigation, administration, arts and new territories in the south.
crafts were introduced, many of them by the
Muslim rulers. Trade flourished with Iran,
the Arab countries, Southeast Asia, China and
Europe, and a 14th-century historian records
that Delhi was the largest city in the eastern
Islamic world. The mosques, tombs and forts
built by the Delhi Sultans ushered in new
trends in architec ture; and distinct regional
styles, fusing Islamic and Hindu elements, Frieze of an elephant hunt from Hampi, Vijayanagar

Bara Gumbad, a 15th-century Lodi tomb
1451–1526 Reign of 1674 Shivaji crowned
Lodi sultans of Delhi 1555 Reconquest of 1643 Shah Chhatrapati
Delhi by Humayun Jahan
1469–1539 Guru Nanak, 1571–85 Akbar builds begins Taj 1690 Calcutta founded
founder of Sikhism Fatehpur Sikri Mahal by Job Charnock
1450 1500 1550 1600 1650 1700
1498 Portuguese 1540 Sher Shah Suri 1600 Queen Elizabeth I
Vasco da Gama defeats Humayun grants charter to East
reaches Calicut and takes Delhi India Company 1661 Bombay transferred from
the Portuguese to the English
1526 Babur defeats 1530 Humayun 1556 Akbar becomes
Ibrahim Lodi at Panipat succeeds Babur Mughal emperor




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54  INTRODUCING INDIA

The Great Mughals

The Mughals, like their contemporaries the Ottomans
of Turkey, the Safavids of Iran and the Tudors of England,
were a powerful and influential dynasty. They ruled
India for over 300 years, their empire extending at its
height from Kandahar in the northwest to Bengal in the
east, and from Kashmir in the north to the Deccan in
the south. Great patrons of literature, architecture, and
arts and crafts, which reached new heights under their Decorative Arts
patronage, the Mughals established a rich pluralistic Sumptuous objects, such as this
blue glass and gold enamelled
culture, blending the best of Islamic and Hindu traditions. hookah base, were made in the
royal Mughal workshops.

Emperor Akbar
The greatest Mughal,
Akbar (r.1556–1605) was a
brilliant administrator and A nobleman
enlightened ruler. He built presents a gift to
the city of Fatehpur Sikri the emperor.
(see pp184–7).






Weaponry
War elephants formed an important part
of the Mughal army. They were controlled
and commanded with sharp but
beautifully crafted goads.


Mughal Coins Court robes and
Gold mohurs struck turbans indicated
during the reigns status and religion.
of Akbar and his
son Jahangir are
renowned for their Rajput princes
fine calligraphy. were loyal allies.



Diwan-i-Khas was the
special audience hall.




Political Alliances
Raja Man Singh I
of Amber gave his
daughter in marriage
The Nine Jewels to Akbar, beginning
Akbar gathered at his court brilliant men from a tradition of Mughal-
different professions, and he called them his Rajput alliances that
“nine jewels”. They included the musician Tansen would bring peace
(centre), who, it is said, could light a lamp with and prosperity to
the power of his voice. the Mughal Empire.




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THE HIST OR Y OF INDIA  55


Nur Jahan
A formidable
combination of
brains and beauty,
Jahangir’s Persian-
born queen
(b.1577) was the
real power behind
the throne.

Architecture
A monument of ethereal beauty, built by Shah
Jahan for his wife, the Taj Mahal (see pp176–9)
represents the zenith of Mughal architecture.

Jewellery
The legendary wealth of the Mughals
included fabulous jewellery, such as
this pendant encrusted with large,
flawless diamonds.






Illuminated
Manuscripts
Works of
literature, history
and biography
Shah Jahan were produced
on his splendid on gilded paper
throne. with beautiful
calligraphy and
illustrations.

Shah Jahan’s Court
The splendour of the Mughal court is illustrated in this
17th-century painting of Emperor Shah Jahan, with his
nobles grouped in strict hierarchical order around the
throne. Mughal emperors, whose capitals were at Agra
and, later, Delhi, used glittering court rituals and pageantry
to display their supreme authority, as they took stock of
the state of affairs in their empire.


The Mughal Dynasty
Wars of Succession
Aurangzeb, the last great The Mughal Empire flourished
Mughal, came to power from 1526 until Aurangzeb’s
after imprisoning his father death in 1707. After that, the
Shah Jahan, and killing dynasty gradually declined under
his brothers. Ruthless and weak rulers, and finally ended
bigoted, he alienated many in 1857. Its first six rulers were:
of his Hindu subjects, but Babur (r.1526–30)
expanded the Mughal Empire. Humayun (r.1530–56)
Akbar (r.1556–1605)
Jahangir (r.1605–27)
Shah Jahan (r.1627–58)
Aurangzeb (r.1658–1707)





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56  INTRODUCING INDIA

The Decline of the Mughals adjac ent enclaves. The Dutch, in
The death of Emperor Aurangzeb, turn, lost out to the English. The
the last great Mughal, in 1707, 18th century saw major conflicts
heralded the decline of the between the French and
Mughal Empire. He left a ruined English, with three Carnatic
economy and weak successors, Wars fought between 1740
and independent states now and 1763, in South India and
began to be est ablished by the Sahib and mahout involving Indian powers on
on elephant
Rajputs in Rajasthan, the nawabs of both sides. Ultimately, the English
Avadh and Bengal, the nizams of were the victors, the French retaining only
Hyderabad, and the Wodeyars of Mysore. Puducherry and a few small settlements.
Two new powers were the Marathas in
the Deccan and the Sikhs in the north. The Rise of the British
The Marathas under their leader Shivaji Meanwhile, the English East India Company
(see p475) expan ded their territories after was acquiring territory in the north by
1647. The Sikhs, originally a religious gaining trade concessions from the Mughal
group, began to acquire territory in emperors from the early 17th century
the hill states of the north, Jammu and onwards. They defeated the nawabs of
Punjab. Under Ranjit Singh (see p108), Bengal in the Battles of Plassey (Palasi) in
they became a powerful state in the 1757 and Buxar in 1764. By this time, the
early 19th century. invasions of Nadir Shah of Persia in 1739,
and Ahmad Shah Abdali of Afghanistan in
The Europeans 1761, had further weakened the Mughals.
But India would no longer remain a In the battle with Abdali the Marathas,
battleground for indigenous groups and who had gained control of Delhi, suff ered
dynasties – European traders, who had a crushing defeat. From these beginnings,
begun to arrive in the 16th century, were the British began to expand their power.
to change the course of its history. To set Robert Clive (see p565), responsible for
up trading factor ies in areas where their many of their successes, became Governor
agents had settled, the Europeans began of Bengal in 1757. From 1773, the
to acquire land, and fought numerous
wars, both against one another and against
Indian rulers. The trading groups were
organized into companies, and included
the Portuguese, French, Dutch and
English. The Portuguese, who were the first
to arrive, lost most of their territories to the
Dutch and English by the end of the 17th
century, retaining only Goa and a few Rachol Church in Portuguese Goa


1761 Ahmed Shah
1707 Death of 1739 Nadir Abdali of Afghanistan 1774–85 Warren
Mughal emperor Shah of Persia defeats Marathas in the Hastings, first A Maratha
Aurangzeb invades Delhi Third Battle of Panipat Governor General
soldier
1750 1775
Nadir Shah’s battle axe 1764 Battle of Buxar, 1789 Marathas
British granted Diwani
1727 The city of Jaipur of Bengal occupy Delhi
founded by Sawai Jai 1757 Battle of Plassey, British defeat
Singh II 1799 Tipu Sultan
Siraj-ud-daulah, Nawab of Bengal defeated




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THE HIST OR Y OF INDIA  57


















Sepoys (Indian foot soldiers of the East India Company) rebelling at Fatehpur during the Mutiny of 1857

Parliament in England started to exercise India, and obtained them vast profits.
some control over the Company. Warren After the Industrial Revolution, raw
Hastings, appointed Governor in 1772, materials from India were exported to
was soon given the title of Governor Britain, and machine-made British goods,
General of Bengal (1774–1785), with particularly textiles, flooded the country.
supervisory powers over all the Company’s Artisans were impoverished, and crafts,
territories. Under him and his successors towns and cities declined. Discontent with
(who from 1833 onwards were known the alien rulers was growing. Unlike earlier
as governors general of India), expansion conquerors of India, the British maintained
continued, with major wars being fought their separateness, and their base in
against the Marathas, the Punjab, and another country. In 1857, a combin ation
Haider Ali and Tipu Sultan in Mysore. of factors led to a major revolt, which
Other states too were conquered or began as a soldiers’ mutiny, but soon
brought under British control by various had widespread civilian participation.
policies, such as the Subsidiary Alliance, Thousands of rebels marched towards
under which Indian states had to maintain Delhi in May and proclaimed the titular
British troops and allow a British official to Mughal ruler, Bahadur Shah Zafar, emperor
reside in the state and advise them. of India. By September the British had
Another policy was the Doctrine of Lapse, regained control over Delhi. Bahadur Shah
under which states “lapsed” to was exiled to Rangoon (Yangon),
the Company if a ruler died and his young sons executed.
without a direct male Other rebel areas were also
heir. Thus by 1857, the brutally taken over, ending
Company’s control the first major challenge
extended over much of Toy showing Tipu’s tiger mauling a British soldier to British rule.


1803 British 1857 The Indian Mutiny
capture Delhi 1853 First railway from
from the Queen Victoria’s head on Bombay to Thana 1863 Simla
Marathas a Company coin becomes summer
capital of the Raj
1800 1825 1850
1829 Governor 1856 1858 Crown takes
General Bentinck Annexation over the East India
1799–1839 1818 Rajasthani bans sati, the of Avadh Company, and Lord
Reign of kingdoms accept Hindu practice of Canning becomes
Ranjit Singh widow burning Nawab Wajid Ali
British control Shah of Avadh the first Viceroy




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58  Introduc I ng Ind I a

Pax Britannica

the foundations of British rule, or the raj, were laid
after the Indian Mutiny of 1857, which revealed the Delhi Gwalior
unpopularity of the East India company’s rule. By an Jaipur Calcutta
act of Parliament in 1858, the company’s rule ended, (Kolkata)
Bombay
and its Indian territories became part of the British (Mumbai) Madras
Empire, to be ruled through a viceroy. though the (Chennai)
raison d’être of the raj was economic profit and
political control, its abiding legacy was the political British India
unification of the subcontinent, together with the
introduction of Western education, a centralized British territory, 1858
administrative system, and a network of railways.
Caparisoned elephants
carry Raj officials.
Indian attendants in
viceregal livery re-enact a
Mughal procession.













Administration
Some 2,000 British officers, members
of the prestigious Indian Civil Service,
ruled over 300 million Indians. Dubbed
the “Steel Frame of India”, they brought
British-style law and order to the
remotest corners of the country.






Lord Curzon
Viceroy from
1899 to 1905, Curzon
believed British rule
was necessary to
civilize “backward”
India. Paradoxically,
the Western-style
educational institu-
tions set up by the
Raj helped make
Indians more aware
of the injustices of
A Sahib Travelling colonial rule.
A vast rail network was set up to facilitate
commerce and travel. This 19th-century
print shows first-class travel, a privilege of
“whites only”. The sahibs travelled in style,
with several servants in attendance.




058-IND-AT509-1388-Hist8.indd 58 29/04/14 7:08 pm

The his T o r y o f i ndia  59


Raj Cuisine
The British soon developed a taste for Indian
curries, toned down to make them a bit less
spicy. Restaurants such as London’s Chutney Mary
have been popular in Britain ever since.


Memsahib and Tailor
Despite the climate, the
British clung to their own
dress and lifestyle. Children
were sent “home” to study,
and a large Indian
staff enabled a
leisurely lifestyle.
The Viceroy, Lord
Curzon, and his wife
lead the procession.
Crowds line the
streets to see the
grand spectacle.









Cemeteries of the Raj
The harsh Indian climate took a heavy toll on
British women and children. Their tombs fill
the Raj’s graveyards.

The Imperial Durbar, 1903
This painting of Curzon’s Delhi Durbar
(1903), held to celebrate the coronation
of Edward VII in London, shows a procession
winding through the historic streets of Delhi.
Held periodically, such assemblies announced
the grandeur and the political might of
British Rule in India.


The Company
School
Paintings by Indian
artists, such as this
fanciful portrait
of King Edward VII
and Queen
Alexandra in
Indian royal attire,
were specially
commissioned for
the British market.
Colonial Architecture
The most imposing edifice in New
Delhi, built as the imperial capital
between 1911 and 1931, was the
viceroy’s sprawling residence.




058-IND-AT509-1388-Hist8.indd 59 29/04/14 7:08 pm

60  INTRODUCING INDIA


work at the grassroot level in villages
Working alongside Gandhi were several
outstanding Indians, including Pandit
Jawaharlal Nehru.
At first, the movement for freedom
was ruthlessly suppressed, but after World
War II, Britain no longer had the strength
or the will to enforce its rule. Meanwhile,
from 1940 onwards, the Muslim League,
led by Mohammad Ali Jinnah, had been
Crowds of supporters around Mahatma Gandhi demanding an independent state
of Pakistan for Muslims.
The National Movement Finally, at midnight on 14/15 August,
After 1857, nationalist aspirations began 1947, the era of British rule ended, and
to grow, and the founding of the Indian the new nations of India and Pakistan
National Congress in 1885 gave Indians were born. Casting a dark shadow over
a platform from which to demand self- the celebrations was the partition of the
government. A turning point came in 1919, Indian subcontinent into two countries,
when General Reginald Dyer’s troops accompanied by mass migrations of
fired on an unarmed crowd protesting millions of Hindus and Muslims across
against the suppression of civil liberties in the borders, and communal riots in
Jallianwala Bagh in Amritsar. More than 300 which thousands were killed.
people died, and Indians of every caste,
class and religion united in their outrage at Independent India
British brutality. By 1920, the leadership of After Independence, the new government
the National Movement was taken over by integrated more than 550 princely states,
Mohandas Karamchand Gandhi, a which had been semi-
Gujarati lawyer who had recently independent under British
returned from South Africa. rule, into the Indian Union.
Popularly known as Mahatma or In late 1947, a war between
“great soul”, Gandhi’s charismatic India and Pakistan took
appeal and identification with place over the accession to
the poor of India converted the India of the princely state of
freedom struggle into a mass Kashmir, and this continues
movement. His strategy was to to be a major point of
launch a moral crusade of non- dispute between the two
violent resistance (satyagraha) countries. In 1948, Mahatma
to British laws and instit utions, A popular poster of political Gandhi was assassinated by
interspersed with construction heroes, past and present a Hindu fanatic who felt he


1911 Transfer of 1920 Non- 1942 Quit India Movement
capital to Delhi cooperation 1965
1885 Indian announced Movement 1940 Muslim 1948 Mahatma 1962 War
National Congress at the Delhi launched by League adopts the Gandhi India- with 1971 Birth of
founded Pakistan Resolution assassinated China War Pakistan Bangladesh
Durbar Gandhi
1900 1910 1920 1930 1940 1950 1960 1970
1905 1919 Jallianwala 1947 India attains 1952 First 1961 Goa
Partition Bagh massacre Independence, Partition General liberated
of Bengal 1913 Rabindranath Tagore 1930–32 Civil Election, with from
wins Nobel Prize Disobedience universal Portuguese 1971 Princes lose titles
Gandhi’s spinning wheel Movement The Indian flag suffrage rule and privy purses




060-061_EW_India.indd 60 26/04/17 11:52 am

THE HIST OR Y OF INDIA  61


favoured Muslims. took place, in 1977, she was def eated, and
This so shocked the Congress party lost power for the first
and grieved time since Independence. By 1980, Indira
both communities and the Congress were back in power, but
that peace was a military action against Sikh terrorists
finally restored. holed up in the sacred Golden Temple led
As India’s first prime to her assassination by her Sikh guards in
minister, Jawaharlal 1984. Her son, Rajiv Gandhi, took over in a
Nehru laid the sympathy wave, and began liberalizing
foundations of a the economy. He was assassinated by a Sri
modern nation Lankan Tamil separatist during the 1991
state, with a election campaign, but economic reforms
democratic, encouraging private enterprise and
Nehru, with his daughter
Indira and grandson Rajiv secular polity, a foreign investment continued. Since 1996,
strong industrial a series of coalition governments have
base and a plan ned economy, with Non- been in power, with the Hindu nationalist
alignment as the keystone of its foreign Bharatiya Janata Party (BJP) emerging as a
policy. In 1962, China invaded northeast major force to challenge the Congress.
India and then withdrew after inflicting a Significant progress has been made
humiliating defeat on the Indian army. in the years since Independence, though
This brought about much-needed unemployment and poverty continue
modernization of India’s military machine. to exist. The literacy rate has risen from
Nehru died in May 1964, and in 1966 his 18 per cent in 1951 to 74 per cent in 2011.
daughter Indira Gandhi became prime In urban areas, women can be seen
minister. She continued his pro-poor and working in all professions. From frequent
socialist policies, and in 1971, she stripped food shortages in the 1950s, India now
the Indian princes of their titles and has a food surplus, and its industrial base
abolished their privy purses. Later in has expanded to produce a wide range of
the same year, she aided East goods, from toys to aircraft. Economic
Pakistan in its struggle against reforms have flooded the market
West Pakistan, leading to the with consumer goods, and
formation of Bangladesh. But helped the rise of a prosperous
in 1975, perceiving a threat to middle class. In the field of
her power and popularity, information technology,
she declared a state of there has been a veritable
Emergency, under which revolution, with India
the press was censored now firmly established
and dissidents imprisoned. Rural women learning to read as a world leader in
When the general elections during a literacy campaign software development.


1998 Amartya Sen wins the 2004 Tsunami hits coastal Tamil Nadu
1965 Nobel Prize for Economics 1999 and the Andamans
War India-
with 1971 Birth of 1982 India sends scientific Pakistan 2010 India hosts the 19th
Pakistan Bangladesh team to Antarctica conflict
in Kargil Commonwealth Games in Delhi
1960 1970 1980 1990 2000 2010 2020
1961 Goa 1975 Indira 1991 Rajiv Gandhi 2001 Gujarat 2016 Shuttler PV Sindhu becomes the first
liberated Gandhi declares assassinated earthquake Indian woman to win silver at the Rio Olympics
from Emergency 1992 Destruction of 2007 Pratibha Patil becomes
Portuguese 1971 Princes lose titles Babri Masjid leads to the first woman President 2013 Mars Orbiter Mission is
rule and privy purses communal riots of India successfully launched by ISRO




060-061_EW_India.indd 61 26/04/17 11:52 am

062-IND-ED543-1009-NOROpen.indd 62 29/04/14 7:21 pm
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DELHI &

THE NORTH






Introducing Delhi &
the North 64–71
Delhi 72–101
Haryana & Punjab 102–111

Himachal Pradesh 112–137
Ladakh, Jammu & Kashmir 138–159













































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64  DELHI & THE NOR TH

Introducing Delhi & the North Khunjerab Pass
4693m
As rich in natural beauty as in historic sites, North KARAKORAM HIGHWAY Karimabad
India is a much-visited region. A wide variety Gilgit Dastegil Sar
7885m
of landscapes can be enjoyed here, from the Rakaposhi
7788m
snow-capped peaks, alpine valleys and pine Gilgit K2
8611m
forests of Ladakh and Himachal Pradesh, to the flat plains
of Haryana and Punjab, dappled with fields of golden Indus Gasherbrum Quanshuigou
8068m
mustard and wheat. In sharp contrast is the urban sprawl Astor
of Delhi, a bustling metropolis and the nation’s capital. Ladakh’s Nanga Parbat K a r k o r a m R a n g e Tielongtan
8126m
dramatically sited clifftop monasteries and pristine trekking
trails are major attractions for visitors, as are Shimla’s Raj-era
ambience and Dharamsala’s distinctive Tibetan flavour. J A M M U A N D K A S H M I R
Amritsar’s great Sikh shrine, the Golden Temple, and Delhi’s Kargil
magnificent Mughal monuments are other popular destinations. Muzaffarabad Lak Sankhu L adakh Range Nubra
Wular Mulbekh Valley
Baramula Suru Shyok Pamzal
Alchi
Srinagar Valley Monastery
Uri Gulmarg Pahalgam Rangdum Leh
Stok
Matho Monastery
Anantnag Hemis Monastery
Z a s k a r R a n g e
Padum Indus
Mangla Kishtwar
Reservoir Pir Pan jal Range Zaskar
Mirpur
Akhnur
Udhampur Udaipur Hanle
Jammu Chenab Chumar
Chamba Kyelang
Dalhousie Hansa
Bharmour
Pathankot Kotla Manali Kasa
Dharamsala
Gurdaspur Manikaran Tabo
The lush, green landscape of Srinagar, in the Kashmir Valley Kangra Monastery
Batala Jogindarnagar HIMAC H AL
PRADESH
Mandi
Amritsar Hoshiarpur Sutlej Kalpa
Sarahan
Bilaspur Rampur
Jalandhar Anandpur Narkanda
Sahib Shimla
Ludhiana
Firozpur Kasauli Solan
Moga
Faridkot Chandigarh
PUNJ AB Sirhind
Fazilka Nahan
Bathinda Barnala Patiala Ambala Dehra
Sangrur Dun
Abohar
Bikaner Mandi Dabwali Yamunanagar
Punjabi farmers enjoying a ride in a tractor-trailer Pipli
Jakhal Narwana
Karnal Yamuna
Getting Around Sirsa Jind
Delhi has good air, rail and road links to the rest of the region. HARYAN A Panipat
There are daily flights to Leh, Srinagar, Amritsar and Chandigarh. Hisar Hansi
Amritsar and Chandigarh are also connected to Delhi by fast Sonipat
trains and a National Highway. From Chandigarh, there are air Rohtak
services to Shimla and Manali, as well as road links with frequent Bhiwani
bus services. A particularly charming journey is on any of the five Gurugram Delhi
deluxe rail motor cars run by Kalka–Shimla Railways (see p619). Surajkund
Other great journeys, with spectacular mountain scenery en route,
include the trip by road from Manali to Leh, and the journey along Rewari Palwal
the old Hindustan-Tibet Road (National Highway 22), which runs Narnaul
from Shimla to the India-China border near Shipkila. Agra
Snow-capped mountains at Sonamarg, Kashmir Jaipur
064-065_EW_India.indd 64 26/04/17 11:53 am

INTRODUCING DELHI & THE NOR TH  65


KARAKORAM HIGHWAY Karimabad 4693m LADAKH,
Khunjerab Pass
JAMMU
Gilgit Dastegil Sar & KASHMIR
Rakaposhi 7885m
7788m HIMACHAL
K2 PRADESH
Gilgit 8611m
HARYANA
Gasherbrum & PUNJAB
8068m
Quanshuigou DELHI
Indus
Astor K a r k o r a m R a n g e
Nanga Parbat
8126m Tielongtan
J A M M U A N D K A S H M I R
Kargil
Muzaffarabad Lak Sankhu L adakh Range Nubra
Wular Mulbekh Valley
Baramula Suru Shyok Pamzal
Alchi
Srinagar Valley Monastery
Uri Gulmarg Pahalgam Rangdum Leh Key
Stok
Matho Monastery National highway
Anantnag Hemis Monastery
Major road
Z a s k a r R a n g e
Padum Indus Other road
Mangla Kishtwar
Reservoir Pir Pan jal Range Zaskar State border
Mirpur International border
Akhnur Disputed border
Udhampur Udaipur Hanle Main railway
Jammu Chenab Chumar Minor railway
Chamba Kyelang
Dalhousie Hansa Summit
Bharmour
Pathankot Kotla Manali Kasa
Dharamsala
Gurdaspur Manikaran Tabo
Kangra Monastery
Batala Jogindarnagar H IMAC H AL
P RA D E SH
Mandi
Amritsar Hoshiarpur Sutlej Kalpa
Sarahan
Bilaspur Rampur 0 kilometres 100
Jalandhar Anandpur Narkanda 0 miles 100
Sahib Shimla
Ludhiana
Firozpur Kasauli Solan
Moga
Faridkot Chandigarh
P UNJA B Sirhind
Fazilka Nahan
Bathinda Barnala Patiala Ambala Dehra
Sangrur Dun
Abohar
Bikaner Mandi Dabwali Yamunanagar
Pipli
Jakhal Narwana
Karnal Yamuna
Sirsa
Jind
HA RYAN A Panipat
Hisar
Hansi
Sonipat
Rohtak Autumn colours along the banks of the Indus river in Ladakh
Bhiwani
Delhi
Gurugram
Surajkund
Rewari Palwal
Narnaul
Agra
Jaipur For keys to symbols see back flap
064-065_EW_India.indd 65 26/04/17 11:53 am

66  DELHI & THE NOR TH

A PORTRAIT OF DELHI

AND THE NORTH


The peaks of the Himalayas, the most spectacular natural barrier in the world,
mark the boundaries of the area that extends northwards from Delhi. A variety
of cultures and landscapes lie within this region. Delhi’s bustling urban sprawl
gradually gives way to the lush, flat farmlands of Punjab and Haryana, north of
which are the serene mountainous lands of Himachal Pradesh and Ladakh.
In geological terms, the Himalayas displaced by the Partition of India in
are very young (see pp68–9), but 1947, when the western portion of Punjab
even so, they evoke a feeling became part of Pakistan. Homeless
of timeless eternity, and have been refugees from west Punjab have
a source of spiritual inspiration to since prospered in Delhi, and now
Indians for thousands of years. dominate the city’s commercial
The monasteries and temples life. As the nation’s cap ital, Delhi
situated on their slopes perfectly continues to attract people from
complement the profound all over India, giving this vibrant city
beauty of these mountains. Saffron flowers a resolutely cosmopolitan air.
Most visitors to the region start The hardworking, resilient
out from Delhi, the country’s capital, a city Punjabis have also transformed their
that represents a blend of several historical home state with modern farming
eras. Its grand Mughal past is evident in its techniques, introduced in the 1960s.
many stately monuments and tombs. The As a result of this “Green Revolution”,
elegant tree-lined avenues and bungalows Punjab and Haryana today produce
of New Delhi evoke the period of the much of India’s wheat and rice, and one-
British rule. Yet both coexist alongside the third of its dairy products. Punjabis are
modern world of high-rise buildings, also among the most successful immigrant
shopping arcades and multiplex cinemas. communities in the world, and today,
Delhi’s population swelled massively many families have at least one member
to accommodate the millions of people living abroad, whether in London, New






















A deep blue glacial lake near Thamsar Pass in Himachal Pradesh




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INTRODUCING DELHI & THE NOR TH  67





















Mustard fields in the fertile plains of Punjab
York, Vancouver or Hong Kong, as offers spectac ular treks, some of
portrayed in Mira Nair’s film, Monsoon which start from Dharamsala, a town
Wedding (2001). with a distinct Tibetan flavour as the
The name “Punjab” refers to the five home of the Dalai Lama (see p126).
(panch) rivers (ab) that traverse this Jammu and Kashmir, which includes
green land. The sixth Ladakh, is India’s northernmost state.
“river”, if one can Tragically, the militant separatist move ment
call it that, is the in the beautiful Kashmir
legendary Grand Valley has effectively
Trunk Road (see had a negative impact
p183). Travelling on tourism there. But
almost anywhere Ladakh remains an
north of Delhi, one oasis of peace. It is often
is bound to use this perceived as having a
route. The kind of A Delhi wedding procession purely Buddhist culture,
traffic may have but its population is, in
changed since Rudyard Kipling’s day fact, almost equally divided between
(see p259) – it now rather prosaically has Buddhists and Muslims, who coexist here
been rechristened National Highway 1, in harmony. Ladakh’s uniquely syncretic
but it still lives up to the author’s culture, together with its astonishing
description: “Such a river of life exists natural beauty and the dramatic
nowhere in the world.” architecture of its monasteries, make
During the Raj-era, the British it one of India’s most fascinating areas.
would escape from the summer
heat of the plains and head for
the hills. Today’s visitors follow
in their footsteps all year round.
Hima chal Pradesh has a number
of delightful hill stations, such as
Shimla, Kasauli and Dalhousie.
The hillsides are covered with
orchards, and apple farming is
an important part of the state’s
economy. Himachal Pradesh also A Kashmiri family gathered around their samovar




066-067_EW_India.indd 67 26/04/17 11:42 am

68  DELHI & THE NOR TH


The Great Himalayas
C H I N A
The highest and youngest mountains in the world, the PAKISTAN
Himalayan Range stretches for 2,500 km (1,553 miles) NEPAL BHUTAN
along the Indian subcontinent’s northern borders,
separating it from Central Asia and the Tibetan Plateau. INDIA
The Himalayas were formed about 30 million years BANGLADESH
ago, when the Indian plate broke away from
Gondwanaland, drifted northwards and collided with Locator Map
the Eurasian landmass, driving the earth’s crust up to The Himalayas
form three parallel ranges, which include 30 of the Area illustrated below
world’s highest peaks.














High-altitude desert, where little grows
except lichen, is found above the tree line.
One such area is between Diskit and Hundar
in Ladakh’s Nubra Valley (see p147), which
has sand dunes and camels.











The Himalayas
Fourteen peaks in the Himalayas tower above
Glaciers are especially abundant in the 8,000 m (26,247 ft), including Mount Everest, the
Western Himalayas. They are the source world’s highest peak at 8,848 m (29,029 ft). The two
of three great Indian rivers – the Indus, highest peaks in India are Kanchendzonga (see
the Ganges and the Brahmaputra.
p306) at 8,586 m (28,169 ft), and Nanda Devi (seen
above) at 7,817 m (25,646 ft).
Bandarpunch (“Monkey Kedarnath, 6,940 m (22,769 ft),
Tail”), 6,316 m (20,722 ft), Phating Pithwar Peak, is regarded as Shiva’s sacred
attracts many mountaineers. Jaonli Peak, 6,633 m 6,904 m (22,651 ft) mountain. Below it is the
This peak is visible from famous Kedarnath Temple.
Dodital (see p192). (21,762 ft)












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INTRODUCING DELHI & THE NOR TH  69



Flora and Fauna
Subtropical jungles, temperate
coniferous forests and alpine
meadows are among the
varied vegetation zones in
the Himalayas. They support
a rich and abundant variety
of plant and animal life.
A traditional Himalayan dwelling is generally built of stone
and wood, or sun-dried mud bricks. Typically it has two or three Brahma Kamal
storeys, the lowest level filled with stone to provide stability (Saussurea
during earthquakes, the next level housing livestock, and the obvallata) is a
top floor, where the family rooms are laid out. popular offering
at the majority
of hill temples.








Deodar (Cedrus deodara)
is a towering conifer found
in temperate forests in the
Western Himalayas.









Bar-headed geese (Anser
indicus) are attractive water
birds that breed in high-
altitude lakes in Ladakh.
Bharal (Pseudois
nayaur) are called
Marine fossils and rocks that have blue sheep because
been found in high altitudes in of the blue sheen
the Himalayas, and even on on their grey coats.
peaks such as Mount Everest, They inhabit the
testify that these mountains were harsh, stony slopes
once a part of the Tethys seabed. above the snow line.
Nanda Devi, 7,817 m
(25,646 ft)
Trishul (“Trident”),
7,120 m (23,360 ft)


The snow leopard (Panthera
uncia), now endangered, lives
above 4,000 m (13,123 ft). It
preys on wild sheep and hares.






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70  DELHI & THE NOR TH


The Flavours of Delhi & the North

Several culinary strands cross the region of Delhi and Punjab, which,
despite national boundaries, begins at the Khyber Pass, now in
Pakistan. Wheat is the staple food, and a variety of breads (rotis)
are baked in a tandoor, a domed clay oven, also used to barbecue
marinated meats and vegetables. Rich curries, legacies of the
imperial kitchen, are still prepared, as is the post-Partition cuisine
of butter chicken, tikkas and dal makhani. Kashmiri flavours are
delicate blends of yoghurt, spices, aniseed, dried ginger powder,
red chillies and a pinch of asafetida or garlic. Rice and mutton are
the standard fare of both communities. Strands of saffron

Today, Delhi is a city of and idli from South India
immigrants and each community (see pp558–9).
has brought its own food. Delhi has an abundance of
By far the most dominant is street foods. Bhutta (corn-on-
Punjabi and “Frontier” cuisine. the-cob) roasting on makeshift
The ubiquitous tandoori stoves, fruit juices and cooling
chicken, served with pickled sherbets sold from handcarts
onions and mint chutney was and the range of chaat (savoury
“invented” in Daryaganj’s Moti snacks) are legendary. Equally
Mahal restaurant in 1947. Other famous are jalebi (crisply fried
popular foods are the dosa batter in syrup), phirni (rice
Murg zafrani Reshmi kebab Seekh kebab Burra kebab
Tandoori (spiced chicken) (chicken kebab) (lamb kebab) (chargrilled
Mangoes and other fruit on sale in a murg
Delhi fresh produce market lamb)
Delhi
Centuries of Muslim rule have
given Delhi its succulent shami
and burra kebabs, as well as
creamy kormas and salans,
rich biryanis and pulaos, all
delicately spiced main dishes.
Once served at the courts of
kings, emperors and sultans,
this imperial cuisine is still
eaten by most people. A tandoori platter with a selection of barbecued meats


Local Dishes and Specialities
From the old city of Delhi comes the nahari, the
delectable dish of mutton (which can mean
goat meat too in India) that is cooked
through the night and served at
breakfast with naans. Snacks include
the popular chhole-bhature and
vegetable pakora (Indian tempura).
Specialities of Punjab include dal
makhani, baingan ka bharta (smoked
and puréed aubergines/eggplant)
and various stuffed breads. Vegetarian
Mint and chillies dishes in Kashmir are few, the most famous
being haaq (a special spinach), aloo dum Aloo puri is a spicy potato
(potatoes in yoghurt) and chaman (cottage cheese in gravy). dish eaten with puffy deep-
Lamb or mutton dishes include rista (meatballs) cooked in a fried bread and a mint- and-
sauce, and tabak maz (fried ribs cooked in milk). coriander chutney.






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INTRODUCING DELHI & THE NOR TH  71


Kashmir
Food here ranges from a
simple family meal to a
36-course wedding banquet,
the wazawan, where guests are
seated on cushioned rugs in
groups of four, in front of large
silver platters. Rice, grown in the
Kashmir Valley, mutton, chicken
or fish are of prime importance.
The generous use of yoghurt in
the sauces gives the dishes a
creamy consistency, while the
Shikaras (skiffs) carrying fresh vegetables on Dal Lake in Srinagar, Kashmir locally grown saffron adds
flavour and colour. Walnuts
pudding) and crushed almond blend of Northwest Frontier and almonds are also added
or pistachio kulfi (ice cream), and Mughlai cuisines. The hub for texture and flavour. A meal
garnished with noodle ribbons. of Punjabi cuisine is Amritsar, ends with kahva, a green tea
famous for its batter-fried fish. flavoured with cardamom
The dhabas (eateries) that dot and cinnamon.
Punjab
the main highways offer the
Punjabi food is rich and whole- best local food, as truck drivers ON THE MENU
some, and is largely influenced demand hot and tasty meals.
by the lifestyle of farming and Aloo tikki Potato cutlets.
agricultural communities. It is Chhole-bhature Spiced
dominated by milk and dairy chickpeas and puffy bread.
products, such as yoghurt and Dal makhani Lentils flavoured
paneer (cottage cheese), with ginger, garlic, spices and a
prepared in innumerable ways. dollop of cream.
Popular drinks are lassi (butter- Gushtaba Large meatballs
milk) and a variant, chhach, made flavoured with fresh mint.
with ginger, coriander and
powdered cumin. Wheat is the Phirni A sweet rice pudding,
staple cereal and dishes include garnished with nuts.
aloo parathas (fried bread stuffed Shami kebab Mincemeat
with potatoes and vegetables, patties flavoured with spices.
and eaten with yoghurt) and the Tandoori murg Barbecued
seasonal sarson ka saag (mustard spring chicken.
greens) and makke (corn) ki roti. Yakhni A yoghurt and mutton
Although vegetarian food is or lotus root curry with a
the main fare, the non-vegetarian Winnowing wheat, a common sight delicate hint of fennel.
dishes from this state are a in Punjab
















Rogan josh has pieces of Dal combines lentils with a Gulab jamuns are deep-fried
mutton simmered in yoghurt heady mix of onions, garlic and milk and flour balls in a sweet
and is then thickened with spices. It is considered India’s syrup flavoured with rosewater
khoya (solidified milk). “soul food”. and cardamom.






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DELHI & THE NOR TH  73

DELHI


The capital of India, Delhi is also its third-largest city, with
a population of about 18 million. Its strategic location
along the north-south, east-west route has given it a focal
position in Indian history, and many great empires have
been ruled from here. The monuments and ruins of these
are scattered throughout the city, often cheek by jowl with
modern structures and highrise towers.

The vast urban sprawl of contemporary All the contradictions and contrasts of
Delhi is, in fact, a conglomeration of several India are particularly visible in the capital:
distinct enclaves, chief among which are denim-clad youngsters rubbing shoulders
Old Delhi, with its 16th- and 17th-century with robed sadhus (holy men), and bullock
Mughal-built monuments and congested carts travelling alongside the latest luxury
souk-like bazaars and New Delhi, with its cars. Adding to Delhi’s fascinating diversity
wide avenues, grand vistas and Colonial is the fact that it is largely a city of migrants.
mansions, built by the British in the 1930s After the violent Partition of India and
as their imperial capital. New Delhi has Pakistan in 1947, millions of refugees,
government buildings and also houses mainly from West Punjab, flocked here in
the Diplomatic Enclave, where all the search of a new life. Since then there has
embassies are located. The picturesque been a steady influx of people from all
12th-century ruins of citadels built by over India. Yet each regional community
the first Islamic rulers can be seen in the has retained its distinct cultural identity,
Qutb-Mehrauli area, and the affluent new making Delhi less a melting pot than
middle-class suburbs of South Delhi lie a thali (platter), whose offerings may
close by. Slums and shanty towns dot be savoured singly or in various
the outer fringes of the city. interesting combinations.



























People leaving the Jama Masjid after the Friday prayers
Detailing on a wall in the Qutb complex, Delhi



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74  DELHI & THE NOR TH

Exploring Delhi

Some of Delhi’s most impressive buildings can be seen
in the area shown in this map. Vijay Chowk is the vantage
point for the grand sweep of Raj buildings grouped on Sadar SHYAMA PRASAD MUKHERJI MARG
Raisina Hill. To the north, the magnificent Jama Masjid Bazaar NAYA BAZAAR
with its busy hive of lanes, is the focus of Old Delhi. To the Chandni H C SEN RD I CHOWK RING ROAD
Moti
Chowk
southeast, the medieval quarter around the tomb of the KHARI BAOLI CHANDN Masjid
ROAD
Sufi saint Nizamuddin Auliya leads along Mathura Road to BALLI MARAN Khas
the ruined fort, Purana Qila. And to the south, the Mehrauli Q U TA B R O A D LAL KUAN BAZAAR RD NAI SARAK Diwan-i-
Aam Rang
area (shown on the Greater Delhi map) has a fascinating Chawri Bazaar Mahal
cluster of monuments built in the 12th and 13th centuries. CHAWRI BAZAAR
Karim's R I N G R O A D
CHUR I WALI GALI
New SITARAM BAZAAR RD BAZAAR CHITLI QABAR Diwan-i- MAHATM A GANDHI MARG RING ROAD
Delhi
MAIN BAZAAR ROAD CHELMSFORD ROAD VIVEKANAND ROAD TAGORE JAWAHARLAL NEHRU MARG
ANSARI ROAD
N ETA JI SUBHASH MARG
BASANT ROAD
A S A F A L I R O A D
ROAD
RD
Gandhi
MANDIR MARG RK Ashram BANGLA SAHIB RD TURKMAN MAHARAJA R ANJEET SINGH MG Memorial Museum
Marg
B
PANCHKUIAN ROAD
Bridge
Vijay Chowk (see pp76–7), at the base of Raisina Hill, surrounded by SHAHEED BHAGAT (INDIRA CHOWK) Shivaji ZAFAR
Rajiv
government offices BHAI VIR SINGH MG SINGH MARG CONN Chowk DEEN DAYAL UPADHYAYA MG
Shivaji
Barakhamba Rd
K O T L A M A R G MG
Stadium
Sights at a Glance RAMAKRISHNA ASHRAM MG BABA KHARAK SINGH MG AUGHT CIRCUS BARAKHAMBA Shri Ram
M I R D A R D M A R G AHADUR SHAH
YMCA
Centre
Mandi
KALI BARI ROAD
ROAD
House
Historic Buildings, Streets JAI SINGH MG SANSAD MARG TOLSTOY MG Rabindra SIKANDRA RD Tilak Bridge
& Neighbourhoods YWCA KASTURBA GANDHI MG Bhavan NSD
1 Around Vijay Chowk pp76–7 A S H O K Patel Kamani Pragati
PANDIT PANT MG
2 Rashtrapati Bhavan DR BISHAMBAR DAS MARG Chowk J A N PAT H FEROZESHAH RD Auditorium Maidan R I N G
3 Raisina Hill Cathedral Church NORTH AVE TALKATORA ROAD COPERNICUS MARG M AT H U R A R O
4 Rajpath SANSAD MG R O A D T I L A K M A R G
CANNING ROAD
9 Jantar Mantar TERESA CRESCENT Sansad RAISINA RD ASHOK RD Pragati
Bhavan
of the Redemption
e Purana Qila CHURCH ROAD RAFI AHMED KIDWAI MG DR RAJENDRA PRASAD RD Maidan
Indira Gandhi
Central Secretariat
QILA RD
t Nizamuddin Complex MUGHAL Central National Centre for the India PURANA A D
Archives
GARDENS
Performing Arts
VIJAY
y Humayun’s Tomb p87 CHOWK R A J PAT H R A J PAT H Gate BHAIRON MAR G
u Chandni Chowk pp88–9 Secretariat
o Red Fort DALHOUSIE RD Bhawan MAULANA AZAD RD SHERSHA H RD
Udhyog
p Rajghat MOTHER THYAGARAJA MG MG AKBAR RD MAN SINGH ROAD SHAHJAHAN ROAD
a Feroze Shah Kotla S O U T H A V E N U E MOTILAL NEHRU MG M A T H U R A R O A D Indraprastha R O A D M A H AT M A G A N D H I M A R G
s Around Kashmiri Gate MENON MG PANDARA ROAD
d Coronation Memorial RAJAJI J A N P A T H Khan DR ZAKIR HUSSAIN MARG
KRISHNA
NATIONAL
h Safdarjung’s Tomb A K B A R R O A D SUBRAMANIAM BHARTI MG ZOOLOGICAL
Market
k Hauz Khas TEEN MURTI MG PARK
l Khirkee Lok Kalyan TUGHLUQ RD
Marg
z Jahanpanah Key DR APJ ABDUL KALAM ROAD ARCHBISHOP MAKA RIOS MG
x Mehrauli Archaeological Park pp96–8 PRITHVIRAJ ROAD DELHI GOLF
COURSE
v Tughluqabad Sight SAFDARJUNG ROAD Sikandar MAHARISHI RAMAN MG
Lodi's
Railroad TUGHLUQ RD Tomb MAX MUELLER MG
Churches, Temples & Mosques National Highway (Inset map) LO D I R O A D MATHURA ROAD
Tomb of
0 Lakshmi Narayan Mandir Major road (Inset map) Muhammad Shah ARAB KI SARAI RD Nizamuddin
i Jama Masjid LO D I R O A D HARSHA RD Station
b Baha’i House of Worship
g National Rail Museum Parks & Gardens RAHIM KHAN ROAD ISBT
Sarai Kale
Museums c Sanskriti Museum w Lodi Gardens B A RA P U L L AH F LY O V E R
Khan
5 National Museum pp80–81 f The Ridge
6 National Gallery of Modern Art Shops & Markets
q Nehru Memorial Museum and Library 8 Connaught Place Theatres & Art Galleries
r Crafts Museum pp84–5 j Khan Market 7 Mandi House Complex
For hotels and restaurants in this region see p694 and pp706–707
074-075_EW_India.indd 74 26/04/17 11:53 am

DELHI  75


Greater Delhi Panipat
Old
Delhi
NH1
NH10
Sadar SHYAMA PRASAD MUKHERJI MARG
Bazaar
The
Chandni H C SEN RD I CHOWK Moti Ridge
KHARI BAOLI Chowk Masjid Y amuna
NAYA BAZAAR
ROAD CHANDN New NH24
RING ROAD
Khas Delhi
Diwan-i-
Aam Rang
BALLI MARAN
Mahal Indira Gandhi
NAI SARAK
Chawri Bazaar International
CHAWRI BAZAAR Airport NH2
Q U TA B R O A D
LAL KUAN BAZAAR RD
NH8 Siri
Karim's R I N G R O A D
Fort
CHUR I WALI GALI
Agra
New BAZAAR CHITLI QABAR Diwan-i- MAHATM A GANDHI MARG RING ROAD 0 km 2
Delhi
SITARAM BAZAAR RD
MAIN BAZAAR ROAD CHELMSFORD ROAD VIVEKANAND ROAD TAGORE JAWAHARLAL NEHRU MARG 0 miles 2
N ETA JI SUBHASH MARG
ANSARI ROAD
BASANT ROAD
A S A F A L I R O A D
MAHARAJA R ANJEET SINGH MG
RD
ROAD
MANDIR MARG RK Ashram BANGLA SAHIB RD (INDIRA CHOWK) TURKMAN Shivaji M I R D A R D M A R G AHADUR SHAH Gandhi
Memorial Museum
Marg
B
PANCHKUIAN ROAD
Bridge
Rajiv
RAMAKRISHNA ASHRAM MG BHAI VIR SINGH MG SINGH MARG YMCA YWCA TOLSTOY MG BARAKHAMBA Kamani DEEN DAYAL UPADHYAYA MG Tilak Bridge Getting Around
SHAHEED BHAGAT
Chowk
ZAFAR
The areas shown here are best covered
BABA KHARAK SINGH MG AUGHT CIRCUS
CONN
Shivaji
K O T L A M A R G MG
Barakhamba Rd
Stadium
SANSAD MARG
by the metro, taxi, auto-rickshaw or a
Shri Ram
hired car and driver. Guided coach tours
Centre
Mandi
JAI SINGH MG
KALI BARI ROAD
ROAD
House
run by Delhi Tourism (see p737) also
Rabindra
SIKANDRA RD
Bhavan
cover many sights. Avoid buses!
NSD
FEROZESHAH RD
Patel
A S H O K
Chowk
Cathedral Church NORTH AVE
DR BISHAMBAR DAS MARG
Maidan
TERESA CRESCENT CHURCH ROAD PANDIT PANT MG Sansad SANSAD MG R O A D J A N PAT H ASHOK RD Auditorium COPERNICUS MARG T I L A K M A R G M AT H U R A R O Pragati Maidan R I N G
KASTURBA GANDHI MG
RAFI AHMED KIDWAI MG
RAISINA RD
CANNING ROAD
TALKATORA ROAD
Pragati
of the Redemption
Bhavan
DR RAJENDRA PRASAD RD
Indira Gandhi
Central Secretariat
QILA RD
MUGHAL
National
Archives
GARDENS
Performing Arts
Central
Gate
VIJAY
R A J PAT H
CHOWK R A J PAT H Centre for the India PURANA A D
Secretariat BHAIRON MAR G
S O U T H A V E N U E MOTILAL NEHRU MG MAN SINGH ROAD ROAD PANDARA ROAD M A T H U R A R O A D Indraprastha R O A D M A H AT M A G A N D H I M A R G
MOTHER DALHOUSIE RD Udhyog MAULANA AZAD RD SHAHJAHAN SHERSHA H RD
Bhawan
AKBAR RD
THYAGARAJA MG MG
RAJAJI A K B A R R O A D J A N P A T H SUBRAMANIAM BHARTI MG ZOOLOGICAL
KRISHNA
Khan
NATIONAL
MENON MG
Market
PRITHVIRAJ ROAD
DR APJ ABDUL KALAM ROAD Sikandar MAHARISHI RAMAN MG ARCHBISHOP MAKA RIOS MG DELHI GOLF
TEEN MURTI MG
Lok Kalyan TUGHLUQ RD PARK
Marg
DR ZAKIR HUSSAIN MARG
COURSE
Lodi's
TUGHLUQ RD
Tomb of Tomb MAX MUELLER MG LO D I R O A D MATHURA ROAD Boating near one of Delhi’s oldest historical
SAFDARJUNG ROAD
Muhammad Shah ARAB KI SARAI RD Nizamuddin
HARSHA RD
LO D I R O A D Station sites, the Purana Qila
ISBT
Sarai Kale
Khan
RAHIM KHAN ROAD
0 metres 800
B A RA P U L L AH F LY O V E R
0 yards 800
For keys to symbols see back flap
074-075_EW_India.indd 75 26/04/17 11:53 am

76  DELHI & THE NOR TH

1 Street-by-Street: Around Vijay Chowk

Vijay Chowk, or “Victory Square”, a large piazza at the base of
Raisina Hill, was planned as a commanding approach to the
Viceroy’s House, now the Indian President’s residence. This is
where the “Beating of the Retreat” ceremony takes place each
year on 29 January (see p41). Vijay Chowk is flanked by two
long, Classical Secretariat buildings (the North and South Blocks),
which house several ministries as well as the Prime Minister’s
Office. Ministers and government officials live in spacious . Vijay Chowk
bungalows on the tree-shaded avenues nearby. From Vijay This piazza, flanked by
Chowk, Lutyens’s grand Central Vista lies ahead – large trees red sandstone obelisk-
shaped fountains,
and fountains line the lawns of Rajpath up to India Gate, the faces a grand vista.
Statue Canopy and the National Stadium at the far end.
Sansad Bhavan,
North Block,
designed by formerly known as
Herbert Baker, Parliament House.
has an imposing
Central Hall.





M O T I L A L N E H R U M A R G D
D A L H O U S I E R O A D A J R O A



The Iron Gates A R
Copied from a M S U N E H R I B A G H R O A D
pair that Lutyens K A
saw in Chiswick,
England, these are
set into ornamental D
sand stone gate - R O A
posts. They lead to Key A J R
Rashtrapati Bhavan A X
(see p78). Suggested route J I E I
L K R I S H N A M E N O N M A R G
P
U
M
Sir Edwin Landseer Lutyens A D
R
Architect Sir Edwin Landseer Lutyens (1869–1944), President of the G
Royal Academy from 1938 to 1944, was commissioned to design
India’s new capital in 1911. With Sir Herbert Baker, his colleague, it
took him 20 years to build the city in a unique style that combined
Western Classicism with Indian decorative motifs. The result is an
impressive and harmonious synthesis, with Neo-Mughal gardens
and grand vistas meeting at
verdant roundabouts. The
build was delayed by World
War I and quarrels between
Baker and Lutyens, and
spiralling costs met by Indian
revenues led Mahatma Gandhi . South Block
to term it a “white elephant”. The Prime Minister’s Office
The red sandstone National Archives, Ironically, the British lived here and the Defence Ministry are
designed by Lutyens for only 16 years. located within this section of
the Secretariat.
For hotels and restaurants in this region see p694 and pp706–707

076-077_EW_India.indd 76 26/04/17 11:53 am

DELHI  77




Yamuna





Locator Map
See Delhi Map pp74–5
Sunehri Bagh
This gently curving street leads to a picturesque
roundabout with a simple 18th-century mosque built Roundabout
by a pir called Sayyid Sahib. Shady trees are a standard A series of
feature of all Lutyens’s avenues. beautifully
landscaped road
Udyog Bhavan intersections are a
(Ministry of Commerce) haven for workers
during lunch.
India Gate Vayu Bhavan
(Air Headquarters)






M O T I L A L N E H R U M A R G D
D A L H O U S I E R O A D R A J R O A





K A M A S U N E H R I B A G H R O A D

D
A
O
R
R
A
J
X
A
J I
I E
L K R I S H N A M E N O N M A R G
P
U
M
D
A
R G
Statue of
Kamaraj
K Kamaraj was
Congress Party
President
(1963–7).
. Bungalow-lined Avenues 0 metres 25
Strict building bylaws preserve the original 0 yards 25
architecture of the colonial bungalows in the
tree-lined avenues of this area.


076-077_EW_India.indd 77 26/04/17 11:53 am

78  DELHI & THE NOR TH

4 Rajpath
National Archives: Janpath. Tel (011)
2338 3436. q Central Secretariat.
Open 10am–5:30pm Mon–Fri.
Closed public hols & Sun. ∑ national
archives.nic.in Indira Gandhi National
Centre for the Arts: Janpath. Tel (011)
2338 8155. Open 9am–5:30pm Mon–Fri.
∑ ignca.nic.in
Running east of Vijay Chowk is
Rajpath, a 3-km (2-mile) avenue
used for parades, with fountains,
canals and lawns on either side.
The National Archives, situated
at the inter section with Janpath,
Ornate iron gates leading to Rashtrapati Bhavan, designed by Lutyens houses a major collection of
state records and private papers.
2 Rashtrapati area, it is dominated by stately Opposite is the Indira Gandhi
Bhavan buildings such as the twin North National Centre for the Arts with
and South blocks (see p76) of the an archive of rare manuscripts. It
Tel (011) 2301 5321. q Central Secretariat. The two virtually holds national and inter national
Secretariat. 8 9am–4pm Fri–Sun. identical buildings that rise from exhibitions and symposia.
Change of Guard Ceremony: 15 Mar– the top of Raisina Hill were At Rajpath’s eastern end
14 Aug: 8am Sat; 15 Aug–14 Nov: 9am designed by Sir Herbert is India Gate, a massive red
Sat; 15 Nov–14 Mar: 10am Sat. Mughal
Gardens: Open Feb–Mar: Tue–Sun. Baker, who also designed sandstone arch, built to
∑ presidentofindia.nic.in the grand circular commemorate the
Sansad Bhavan Indian and British
Designed by Sir Edwin (Parliament House) soldiers who died
Lutyens (see p76) as the British to the north of Vijay in World War I, and
Viceroy’s Palace, Rashtrapati Chowk. Both the Rajya those who fell in
Bhavan, situated at the crest Sabha (Council of battle in the North-
of Raisina Hill, is now the official States) and the Lok West Frontier Province
residence of the President Sabha (House of the and the Third Afghan
of India. A vast copper-clad People) convene here War. An eternal flame
cupola soars over this elegant when Parliament is in burns in memory of
beige and red sandstone session. After the India Gate the soldiers who died
building, which covers an area December 2001 in the 1971 India-
of 2 ha (5 acres). The pièce terrorist attack, access is limited Pakistan War. Facing India Gate
de résistance is the circular and visitors can only visit the is the sand stone canopy where
Durbar Hall, situated directly galleries of Sansad Bhavan. a statue of King George V was
beneath the dome, and where Set behind Sansad Bhavan is installed in 1936. The statue is
all important state ceremonies the Anglican Cathedral Church now at Coronation Park (see p92)
and functions are held. of the Redemption, inspired by and the canopy stands empty.
To the west, the beautifully Palladio’s Church of II Redentore
landscaped grounds include in Venice. Originally built for
Rashtrapati Bhavan’s Mughal senior British officials in 1931, it 5 National Museum
Gardens. These terraced gardens is now the diocese of the Bishop See pp80–81.
with water courses and fountains, of the Church of North India.
are open to visitors in the spring.

3 Raisina Hill
Cathedral Church of the Redemption:
Tel (011) 2309 4229. q Central
Secretariat. Open 9am–6pm daily.
Galleries: Official pass & letter from MP.
∑ theredemption church.org
The barren, treeless grounds
around Raisina Hill were
selected by the British as
the site of the new capital.
Now a heavily guarded, verdant Sansad Bhavan, where the Constitution of India was drafted
For hotels and restaurants in this region see p694 and pp706–707


078-079_EW_India.indd 78 26/04/17 11:53 am

DELHI  79

6 National Gallery
of Modern Art
Jaipur House, near India Gate. Tel (011)
2338 6111. Open 10am–5pm Tue–Sun.
Closed Mon & public hols. = m
∑ ngmaindia.gov.in
Jaipur House, the former
residence of the maharajas
of Jaipur, is one of India’s
largest museums of modern
art, covering the period from
the mid-19th century to the
present day. Its excellent
collections include works by
modern Indian painters such
as Jamini Roy, Rabindranath Connaught Place, the British-built shopping complex in New Delhi
Tagore, Raja Ravi Varma and
Amrita Shergil, as well as libraries and display galleries Connaught Place (CP) has now
contemporary artists such that sell reproductions. Regular been renamed Rajiv Chowk, and
as Ram Kumar and Anjolie exhibi tions of photo graphy and the outer circle Indira Chowk. Its
Ela Menon. Also on display ceramics are also arcades and pave-
are works by British artists held here. In addition, ments spill over with
such as Thomas Daniell and Kamani Auditorium, paan kiosks, book
his nephew William Daniell, the Shri Ram Centre stalls and shoe-shine
and an interesting group and the National boys, while the
of “Company Paintings” – 18th- School of Drama are eclectic mix of shops
and 19th-century works by vibrant centres for is interspersed with
Indian artists commissioned theatre, music and eateries and cinema
specially for the British market. dance performances. Mirrorwork skirts on sale halls. Efforts to give
at Janpath CP, as it is known, a
facelift for the 2010
7 Mandi House 8 Connaught Commonwealth Games only
Complex Place ended in 2013. Though no longer
Delhi’s premier shopping area,
q Mandi House. Triveni Kala Sangam: q Rajiv Chowk. Shops: Open 10:30am–
205 Tansen Marg. Tel (011) 2371 8833. 8pm Mon–Sat. Closed public hols. its shaded arcades are pleasant
Open 11am–7pm Mon–Sat. Closed to stroll through, and there are
public hols. = - Rabindra Bhavan: Opened in 1931, and named bars and eateries. The nearby
35 Ferozeshah Rd. Tel (011) 2338 1833 after the Duke of Connaught, Central Park features an amphi-
(Sahitya Akademi). = Kamani this shopping complex, with theatre, 21 fountains and plush
Auditorium: 1 Copernicus Marg. its Palladian archways and lawns. Nearby popular shopping
Tel (011) 4350 3351. Shri Ram Centre: stuccoed colonnades, was centres include the state emporia
4 Safdar Hashmi Marg. Tel (011) 2371 designed by Robert Tor Russell at Baba Kharak Singh Marg
4307. - National School of Drama: as a deliberate contrast to the and the stalls along Janpath.
Bhagwan Das Rd. Tel (011) 2338 9402. noises and chaos of an Indian Cottage Industries (see p101) is
For Tickets: see Entertainment: p100.
bazaar. The central circle of also located on Janpath.
Mandi House, today the offices
of the state-owned television
centre, lends its name to this Republic Day Parade
cultural complex encircling Ever since 1950, when India
the roundabout. Triveni Kala became a republic, this
Sangam has contemporary parade on 26 January has
art galleries, an open-air amphi- attracted large crowds
theatre for concerts and plays, despite the often chilly
a popular café and a bookshop weather. Soldiers and
specializing in Indian arts sailors, war veterans and
publications. The state-sponsored school children, and even
Rabindra Bhavan arts complex elephants and camels, The annual Republic Day Parade
houses the national academies march smartly down
of literature (Sahitya Akademi), Rajpath. Especially popular are the folk dancers and the
fine arts and sculpture (Lalit Kala inventive floats representing each state of the country. A
Akademi), and the performing ceremonial flypast by the Indian Air Force signals the end of
arts (Sangeet Natak Akademi) in the unfailingly colourful parade.
separate wings. All three have




078-079_EW_India.indd 79 26/04/17 11:53 am

80  DELHI AREA B Y AREA

5 National Museum

Five millennia of Indian history can be explored at the
National Museum, with a collection of more than
200,000 pieces of Indian art. The nucleus collection
of about 1,000 artifacts was sent to London in the
winter of 1948–9 for an exhibition at the Royal
Academy’s Burlington House. After its return, it was
housed in the Durbar Hall of Rashtrapati Bhavan,
until the present building, built of the same beige and
pink stone as the imposing new capital, was complete . Dara Shikoh’s
in 1960. The museum’s collection of Indus Valley relics Marriage Procession
An 18th-century Mughal
and Central Asian treasures from the Silk Route is miniature painting in gold
considered among the finest in the world. and natural pigments.

Maritime Heritage Gallery
. Nataraja
This 12th-century
Chola statue The Coins Gallery
of the cosmic displays an impressive
dance of Lord collection of coins.
Shiva is the
centrepiece of
the museum’s
bronzes from
South India.



Ground floor

. Kubera
A rare example of
a Hindu god shown
as a 2nd-century
Kushana grandee
with marked Library
Central Asian
features is
among a large
collection of
Mathura Art.

Harappan Civilization Gallery


The Serindian Collection
Almost 700 years after the Silk
Route fell into disuse, Sir Aurel Stein, Entrance
a British archaeologist, led a series
of three expeditions (1900–16) to Audio-visual room
uncover its treasures. On view at the
National Museum, Stein’s Central Terracotta Mask
Asian collection of the artifacts he This unusual human mask
found in the Taklamakan Desert has made of terracotta dates
silk paintings, Buddhist manuscripts back to 2700 BC, and
Silk painting, and valuable records of life along was unearthed in
7th–8th century this ancient trade route. Mohenjodaro in the
early 20th century.
For hotels and restaurants in this region see p694 and pp706–707


080-081_EW_India.indd 80 26/04/17 11:53 am

NA TIONAL MUSEUM  81

Aurangzeb’s Sword
Tribal Lifestyle The personal sword of VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
Gallery the Mughal emperor Practical Information
Aurangzeb, crafted in
1675 in the Indo- Janpath. q Udyog Bhawan.
Persian style, has Tel (011) 2301 9272.
quotations from Open 10am–5pm Tue–Sun.
the Koran Closed Mon & public hols. &
8 10:30am, 2:30pm Mon–Fri
inscribed on it.
(Free). 9 = - m e Film
shows, lectures and special
exhibitions.
∑ nationalmuseumindia.gov.in

Gold Brocade
This pretty 18th-
century purple silk
Ethnic Art Gallery Baluchari sari
is embellished
with motifs in
gold thread.





Copper Plates Gallery
Second floor



Illuminated Koran
This gilded 18th-century
Koran, a superb example
of the elegant Islamic art
of calligraphy, is not on
display but preserved in
the archives. The museum’s
collection also includes an
8th-century Koran in the
ancient Kufic script, among
the oldest of its kind in
the world.
First floor

Key to Floorplan
Gallery Guide
Ancient & Medieval Sculptures
The collection is displayed on three floors,
Chola Bronzes, Jewellery, grouped according to theme, epoch and
Wood Carving style. The central foyer itself has a display of
Buddhist Art, Decorative Art sculptures from various parts of the
Central Asian Antiquities, country. The museum also has a library,
Indian Manuscripts and Coins,
Wall Paintings audiovisual room, and an auditorium
where film shows and lectures are regularly
Early Man
held. Information on these is published in
Pre-Columbian and Western Art the newspapers. Information regarding
Ajanta Paintings, catalogues and souvenirs can be had at
Thanjavur Paintings, Indian the ticket office in the foyer. The display is
Miniature Paintings
changed from time to time for variety,
Textiles, Arms and Armour,
Musical Instruments and special exhibitions are also mounted.
080-081_EW_India.indd 81 26/04/17 11:53 am

82  DELHI & THE NOR TH

q Nehru
Memorial Museum
and Library
Teen Murti Marg. Tel (011) 2301
7587. q Lok Kalyan Marg Station.
Open 9am–5:30pm Tue–Sun.
Closed Mon & public hols. Nehru
Planetarium: Tel (011) 2301 4504.
Open 9am–5pm Tue–Sun.
Closed Mon & public hols.
& Shows: 11:30am, 3pm.
∑ nehrumemorial.nic.in
Brick and plaster astronomical instruments in Jantar Mantar The residence of Jawaharlal Nehru,
India’s first prime minister, Teen
9 Jantar Mantar 0 Lakshmi Narayan Murti Bhavan was converted
Mandir into a museum and library for
Sansad Marg. q Rajiv Chowk.
Open daily. & Mandir Marg. q RK Ashram Marg. research scholars after Nehru’s
death in 1964. Originally built
Sawai Jai Singh II of Jaipur, a keen Open daily. in 1930 as the residence of
astronomer, built this observa tory Built in 1938 by the industrialist the Commander in Chief
– one of the five he constructed BD Birla, this was one of the of the British Indian Army, this
(see pp362–3) – in 1724 to earliest Indian temples without beautiful building became the
calculate plan etary positions and caste restrictions, and Mahatma residence of Jawaharlal Nehru
alignments, in order to perform Gandhi attended its first puja. in 1947. His bedroom and study,
sacred rituals and pujas (acts of A fairly typical example of still exactly as he left them, reflect
woship) at propitious moments. modern Indian temple his austere yet elegant person-
Jantar Mantar’s instruments are architecture, with its ality and his eclectic
large and fixed, making them marble entrance and taste in books.
resistant to vibration and ochre- and maroon The extensive
therefore exact. The Samrat shikharas (spires), grounds are home
Yantra, a right-angled triangle the Birla Mandir, as it to the Nehru
whose hypotenuse is parallel to is popularly known, Planetarium and the
the earth’s axis, is a gigantic sun- has images of square, three-arched
dial, with two brick quadrants Vishnu and his Kushak Mahal, a
on either side of it to measure consort Lakshmi 14th-cen tury hunting
the sun’s shadow. The Ram Yantra, in its main shrine. lodge built by Sultan
reads the altitude of the sun, and Subsidiary shrines Feroze Shah Tughluq
the Jai Prakash Yantra (invented set around the (see p91). On the
by Jai Singh II himself) verifies courtyard, are Teen Murti Memorial roundabout in front
the time of the spring equinox. inscribed with verses of the house stands
Now obsolete, the observatory from sacred Hindu texts and the Teen Murti (“Three Statues”)
lies in the centre of a park are decorated with paintings Memorial. This is dedicated to
surrounded by high-rises. Today, depicting scenes from the the Indian soldiers who died in
the area has become synonymous great epics, the Mahabharata World War I. The house derives
with dharnas (protests). and Ramayana (see pp30–31). its name from this landmark.

















Teen Murti Bhavan, Nehru’s official residence, now the Nehru Memorial Museum and Library
For hotels and restaurants in this region see p694 and pp706–707


082-083_EW_India.indd 82 26/04/17 11:42 am
Eyewitness Travel LAYERS PRINTED:
Catalogue template “UK” LAYER
(Source v2.6)
Date 12th July 2013
Size 125mm x 217mm

DELHI  83























Athpula, the 17th-century bridge near the entrance to Lodi Gardens on South End Road
w Lodi Gardens e Purana Qila red and white marble and
slate. To the south of the
Entrance on Lodi Rd & South End Rd. Mathura Rd. Tel (011) 2435 4260.
q Jor Bagh. Open daily. 0 q Pragati Maidan. Open sunrise– mosque is Humayun’s library,
sunset daily. Museum: Tel (011) 2435 known as Sher Mandal. A
Lodi Gardens is one of Delhi’s 5387. Open 9am–5pm. Closed Friday. double-storeyed octagonal
most picturesque parks, and & Tickets: from site and the Delhi tower of red sandstone, it is
a favourite haunt of joggers, Tourism office. crowned by an elaborate chhatri
yoga enthusiasts, political (open pavilion), supported
bigwigs accompanied by their Purana Qila, literally “Old by eight pillars. This was the
bodyguards, and families who Fort”, stands on an ancient tragic spot where the devout
come to picnic on weekends. site that has been emperor, hurrying to kneel on
Landscaped at the behest of continuously occupied the steps for the evening
Lady Willingdon, the vicereine, since 1000 BC, as prayer, missed his footing
in 1936, the park acts as a archaeological and tumbled to his
“green lung” for the people of excavations have death in January 1556.
Delhi. Its tree-lined pathways revealed. The The ramparts of the
and well-kept lawns and brooding ramparts Purana Qila have three
flowerbeds are laid out around of the fort now enclose principal gateways, of
the imposing 15th-century the remains of the sixth which the imposing
tombs of the Sayyid and Lodi city of Delhi, Dinpanah red sandstone Talaagi
dynasties, Delhi’s last sultans. (see p95), which was Darwaza on the
Many of them still have traces begun by the second Chhatri with western wall is
of the original turquoise Mughal emperor, decorative tilework the main entrance.
tile work and calligraphy. Humayun. His reign, Humayun’s Tomb
The elegantly proportioned however, was short and in (see p87) can be seen from
octagonal Tomb of Muhammad 1540 he was overthrown by the the southern gate.
Shah (r.1434–45), the third Afghan chieftain Sher Shah Suri
ruler of the Sayyid dynasty, (see p53). Sher Shah added
is said to be the oldest in several new structures and
the garden. The largest of the renamed the citadel Shergarh
structures is the Bara Gumbad (“Lion’s Fort”). After Sher Shah’s
(“Big Dome”) with an attached death Humayun regained his
mosque built in 1494, and throne. Of the many palaces,
a guesthouse. At the South barracks and other edifices built
End Road entrance to the by these two rulers, only Sher
gardens is a lovely stone Shah’s mosque and a building
bridge called Athpula (literally that was probably Humayun’s
“eight piers”), said to date library remain standing today.
from the 17th century. To its The Qila-i-Kuhna Mosque,
west are ramparts that enclose built in 1541, is a superbly
the Tomb of Sikander Lodi proportioned structure with The red sandstone gate, or Talaagi
(r.1489–1517). fine decorative inlay work in Darwaza, Purana Qila




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84  DELHI & THE NOR TH

r Crafts Museum

For centuries, Indian craftsmen such as potters, weavers,
masons and carvers, have created a range of objects
for everyday use that are both beautiful and practical.
A unique project was started in 1956 to promote
indigenous artisans by giving them a place in which to
display their work, and by the early 1980s, over 20,000 Wooden ritual mask
objects had been collected. This was the core around of Bhima
which India’s first Crafts Museum developed.
















. Bandhini Odhni
This exquisite veil is the
work of the Khatri community
of Bhuj, Gujarat. Tie-and-dye
(bandhini) is done by tying
threads around grains to form
a pattern, and dyeing the
cloth in different colours.









Saranga
Amphitheatre
Mukhalinga
This rare, late 19th-century
phallic image (linga) with
a human face (mukha) is
made of brass and silver. Administration
The third eye and tiny
snake-earrings are Key to Floorplan
symbols of Shiva. Gallery of Courtly Crafts
Gallery of Ritual Arts (closed
for renovation)
Crafts Demonstration Area Gallery of Folk and Tribal Cultures
Artisans from all over India set Gallery of Textiles
up workshops each month Non-Exhibition Space
(barring the monsoon) Temporary Exhibitions Gallery
to display their skills to
visitors. Musical performances Visual Store
also take place here. Bhuta Sculpture Gallery
For hotels and restaurants in this region see p694 and pp706–707


084-085_EW_India.indd 84 26/04/17 11:53 am

DELHI  85


VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
Practical Information
Bhairon Marg, Pragati Maidan.
Tel (011) 2337 1641.
Open 10am–5pm Tue–Sun.
Closed public hols. = -
m 7 Crafts demonstration:
Open 10am–6pm daily.


Gallery of Folk and Tribal Cultures
Folk paintings and tribal textiles are displayed
here alongside handmade jewellery from the
tribes of Bihar, West Bengal and Madhya Pradesh
amongst other states.





Conservation Cell
Kalamkari panel
This traditional hand-painted textile from
Andhra Pradesh depicts a female deity
with 12 arms.
Mukhalainga
Audiovisual Room




Library . Bhuta Figure
These life-sized
wooden figures,
artifacts from the
Bhuta cult of spirit
worship in the
southern state of
Karnataka (see p530),
date back to the early
19th-century.












Entrance

Gallery Guide Lota the Shop
The museum shop sells a fine selection of
The museum’s exhibits are spread over two floors of items made by indigenous artisans, including
the complex, which is divided into separate areas by household objects, decorative pieces and
courtyards that also double up as exhibition spaces. textiles. Also popular is Café Lota, where teas,
A large open area is used for live art displays by visiting coffees and regional Indian food is served.
artisans each month, except during the rainy season. Many visitors come just to eat in the café.




084-085_EW_India.indd 85 26/04/17 11:53 am

86  DELHI & THE NOR TH

t Nizamuddin Across the western side of
Complex the open courtyard is the
red sandstone Jama’t Khana
W of Mathura Rd. Dargah: Mosque, built in 1325. To its
Open daily. Qawwali performance: north is a baoli (stepwell),
7pm Thu. _ Urs (Jul & Dec).
excavated in secret while
This medieval settlement, or basti, Tughluqabad (see p99) was
is named after Sheikh Hazrat being built, because Ghiyasuddin
Nizamuddin Auliya, whose grave Tughluq had banned all
and hospice are located here. building activities elsewhere.
Nizamuddin belonged to a Legend has it that labourers
fraternity of Sufi mystics, the worked here at night with the
Chishtis, respected for their The congregational area in the help of lamps lit not with oil
austerity, piety and disdain Nizamuddin Complex but with water blessed by
for material desires, and was Nasiruddin, Nizamuddin’s
a spiritual descendant of A winding alley leads to the successor. The early 16th-
Moinuddin Chishti (see p380). saint’s grave. It is crowded century Tomb of Atgah Khan
His daily assemblies drew both with mendicants and lined is to the north. A powerful
the rich and the poor, who with stalls selling flowers and minister in Emperor Akbar’s
believed that he was a “friend of chadors (ceremonial cloths), court, he was murdered by
God”, who would intercede on polychrome clocks and Adham Khan, a political rival
their behalf on Judgement Day. prints of Mecca. The (see p97). The open
He died in 1325, but his disciples main congregational marble pavilion,
call him a zinda pir (living spirit), area is a marble Chaunsath Khamba
who continues to heed their pleas. pavilion (rebuilt in (“64 pillars”), is close by
A three-day Urs is observed, with 1562), where every and just outside is an
qawwalis sung, on the anniversary Thursday evening enclosure containing
of his death, and another on the followers sing the simple grave of
death of his disciple Amir Khusrau. devotional songs Tomb of the famous Mirza Ghalib (1786–
composed by the poet Mirza Ghalib 1869). One of the
celebrated Persian greatest poets of his
poet, Amir Khusrau (1253–1325). time, Ghalib wrote in both
Women are denied entry Urdu and Persian, and his
beyond the outer verandah verses are still recited. Nearby
but may peer through jalis is the Ghalib Academy, a
into the small, dark chamber repository of paintings
where the saint’s grave lies and manuscripts.
draped with a rose petal Despite its crowds,
strewn cloth and surrounded by the basti preserves with
imams, who continuously miraculous serenity the
recite verses from the Koran. legend of Nizamuddin,
Amir Khusrau is buried in described by Khusrau as “a
the complex, as are other king without throne or crown,
Colourful stalls in the alley leading to eminent disciples, such as with kings in need of the
Nizamuddin’s tomb Jahanara Begum. dust of his feet”.
Nizamuddin India
Complex Gate
One of Delhi’s historic
necropolises, many of
the saint’s disciples, such Lodi Road • Sabz Burj •
as Amir Khusrau and Lodi Atgah Khan’s Tomb • Ghalib Isa Khan’s Tomb Arab ki Humayun's
•
Tomb
Jahanara Begum, Shah Gardens • • Academy Sarai • Barber’s Tomb
•
Chaunsath Khamba
Jahan’s favourite daughter, Hazrat Nizamuddin
are buried close to their • Auliya Dargah
master. Jahanara’s epitaph Mathura Road
echoes her master’s
teachings: “Let naught
cover my grave save the 0 metres 250 Lala Lajpat Rai Path • Khan-i-
Rahim Khan Road
green grass, for grass well 0 yards 250 Khanan's
suffices as a covering for Tomb
the grave of the lowly”. Agra
For hotels and restaurants in this region see p694 and pp706–707
086-087_EW_India.indd 86 26/04/17 11:42 am
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DELHI  87


y Humayun’s Tomb VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
Practical Information
Humayun, the second Mughal emperor (see p83), is Off Mathura Rd, Bharat
buried in this tomb, the first great example of a Mughal Scout Guide Marg.
garden tomb, and inspiration for several later monuments, Tel (011) 2435 5275.
Open daily. & - m 7
such as the incomparable Taj Mahal (see pp176–9). Built
in 1565 by Persian architect Mirak Mirza Ghiyas, it was
commissioned by Humayun’s senior widow, Haji Begum.
Often called “a dormitory of the House of Timur”, the
graves in its chambers include those of Humayun’s wives
and Dara Shikoh, Shah Jahan’s scholarly son. Also in
the complex are the octagonal tomb and mosque of
Isa Khan, a 16th-century nobleman, and the tomb of
Humayun’s favourite barber. The Arab ki Sarai was a
rest house for the Persian masons who built the tomb.
The perfectly symmetrical Humayun’s Tomb, as
seen from the entrance
The Dome
This imposing white marble double dome is a
complete half-sphere, and is surmounted by
a finial with a crescent in the Persian style.
Later Mughal finials, such as the one at the
Taj Mahal, added a lotus base.

Geometric designs
inlaid on panels











Jalis
Fine trellis work
in stone later
became a signature
Mughal feature.













Tomb Chamber
The imposing plinth is decorated with The plain white marble sarcophagus
red sandstone arches and consists of stands on a simple black- and- white
multiple chambers, a departure from marble platform. The grave itself, no longer
the single chamber of previous tombs. accessible, lies in the dark basement below.




086-087_EW_India.indd 87 26/04/17 11:42 am

88  DELHI & THE NOR TH

u Street-by-Street: Chandni Chowk

Once the most elegant boulevard in Shahjahanabad (see p95),
Chandni Chowk (“Moonlit Square”), laid out in 1648, had a
canal running through it, and was lined with grand shops
and mansions. Today, it is still the heart of Old Delhi, a bustling
area, where religious and commercial activity mix easily. At the
entrance to Chandni Chowk is the Digambar Jain Temple. Built in
1656, it is the first of many shrines along the boulevard’s length.

Sisganj Gurdwara Charity box for donations
In 1675, Guru Tegh Bahadur, at the Bird Hospital
the ninth Sikh guru, was
beheaded at this site.




C H A N D N I C H O W K





Fatehpuri Masjid
(built in 1650) E S P L A N A D E R O A D

K I N A R I B A Z A A R

Nai Sarak D A R I B A K A L A N



Sunehri
Masjid
The “Golden
Mosque”, with
three gilt domes,
was built in 1722. B A Z A A R G U L I Y A N
On 22 March 1739,
Persian invader
Nadir Shah stood C H E L P U R I
on its roof to watch
the massacre of
Delhi’s citizens.



Shiv
Temple


. Kinari Bazaar
Tightly packed stalls sell all
manner of glittering gold and 0 metres 25
silver trimmings such as braids, 0 yards 25
tinsel garlands and turbans for
weddings and festivals.
For hotels and restaurants in this region see p694 and pp706–707


088-089_EW_India.indd 88 26/04/17 11:42 am
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Date 24th April 2013
Size 125mm x 217mm

DELHI  89




Yamuna





Locator Map
. Lahore Gate See Delhi Map pp74–5
This imposing red sandstone
gateway is the main entrance to
the Red Fort (see p90). The Prime
Minister addresses the
Independence Day rally here.








. Dariba Kalan
Gold and silver orna ments
are sold along this lane.
N E T A J I S U B H A S H M A R G
Gulab Singh’s famous
perfume shop (see pp100–
101) is located here.
E S P L A N A D E R O A D


D A R I B A K A L A N



. Jama Masjid
India’s largest
mosque, Jama
Masjid, with its
soaring minarets
and vast
marble domes,
is grandly
positioned on
top of a mound
(see p90).
Karim’s
Government Girls Tucked away in a narrow
lane to the south of
Senior Secondary Jama Masjid is Delhi’s most
School authentic Mughlai eatery (see p706).
Karim’s Named after a legendary
19th-century chef, the
restaurant is now run
by his descendants.
Al Jawahar (located
Key right next to Karim’s) is
another authentic
Suggested route Mughlai eatery.




088-089_EW_India.indd 89 26/04/17 11:42 am

90  DELHI & THE NOR TH


hoisted for the first time, when
India became an independent
nation on 15 August 1947.
Entry is through Lahore Gate.
One of the fort’s six gateways,
this leads on to the covered
bazaar of Chatta Chowk, where
paintings and trinkets are sold.
Beyond this lies the Naqqar
Khana, a pavilion where
ceremonial music was played
three times a day.
A path from here leads to
The sandstone and marble Jama Masjid, India’s largest mosque the Diwan-i-Aam, a 60-pillared,
red sandstone hall, where the
i Jama Masjid the top are narrow and can emperor gave daily audience
get crowded, but the views to the public. The emperor sat
Off Netaji Subhash Marg. q Chawri
Bazaar. Closed for non-Muslims are definitely worth the effort. beneath the lavishly carved
during prayer time. Extra charges for stone canopy, while the low
photography. bench in front of it was for his
o Red Fort chief minister. Beyond this hall
Built on the orders of the Chandni Chowk. Tel (011) 2327 7705. is the Rang Mahal.
Emperor Shah Jahan, this grand q Chandni Chowk. Open 7am– Inside its gilded chambers,
mosque, with three imposing 6:30pm Tue–Sun. Closed Mon & once exclusively for women,
black- and- white marble domes, public hols. & Son et Lumière: Feb– is an inlaid marble fountain
and twin minarets framing its Apr, Sep & Oct: 8:30–9:30pm daily; shaped like an open lotus.
great central arch, took six years Nov–Jan: 7:30–8:30pm daily; May– Nearby, is the Khas Mahal,
and 5,000 workers to construct, Aug: 9–10pm daily. & Museum: the emperor’s royal apartments
at a cost of nearly a million rupees. Open Tue–Sun. = with special rooms for private
It was completed in 1656. A worship and for sleeping. The
magnificent flight of sandstone Red sandstone battlements Robe Room (“Tosh Khana”) has
steps leads to the great arched give this imperial citadel its a superb marble jali screen
entrances. In Aurangzeb’s time, name, Lal (“Red”) Qila carved with the s
the area attracted horse sellers (“Fort”). Commis- cales of justice, a
and jugglers; today, shoe minders sioned by Shah Jahan motif seen in many
and beggars mill around. in 1639, it took nine miniature paintings.
The huge, 28-m (92-ft) square years to build and was North of the Khas
courtyard can accommodate the seat of Mughal Mahal is the Diwan-
up to 20,000 people at Friday power until 1857, i-Khas, constructed
prayer sessions and at Id, when when the last Mughal completely of
it looks like a sea of worshippers. emperor, Bahadur white marble. The
The south minaret is an Shah Zafar, was legendary Peacock
attraction for visitors, as it offers dethroned and exiled. Throne, embedded
unrivalled views across all of old It was here that the Throne canopy at the with priceless jewels
Delhi. The 120 steps leading to national flag was Diwan-i-Aam was kept here until it
Red Fort
11 10 9 8 6 7
1 Delhi Gate
15 2 Lahore Gate
3 Chatta Chowk
4 Naqqar Khana
12 14 13 5
5 Diwan-i-Aam
4
6 Rang Mahal
1 7 Mumtaz Mahal
8 Khas Mahal
3 9 Diwan-i-Khas
10 Hamams
11 Shah Burj
12 Sawan
2
0 metres 200 13 Bhadon
14 Zafar Mahal
0 yards 200 15 Moti Masjid
For hotels and restaurants in this region see p694 and pp706–707


090-091_EW_India.indd 90 26/05/17 11:44 am
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DELHI  91


was taken away as war booty by
the Persian chieftain Nadir Shah
in 1739. The walls and pillars of
this exclusive pavilion, where
the emperor met his most-
trusted nobles, were once inlaid
with gems. The ceiling was of
silver inlaid with precious stones.
A little further away are the
Hamams (Royal Baths) with
inlaid marble floors and three
enclosures. The first chamber
provided hot vapour, the
second scented rosewater
through sculpted fountains,
and the third cold water. Ashokan Pillar, rising above the ruins of Feroze Shah Kotla
To the west of the baths is
the elegant little Moti Masjid Just across the road is the roofless ruins of the Jama Masjid,
(“Pearl Mosque”), named after National Gandhi Museum, of which only the rear wall is still
the pearly sheen of its marble. filled with memorabilia, extant. This was once Delhi’s
It was built by Emperor including Gandhi’s letters and largest mosque and according to
Aurangzeb in 1659. diaries. A framed plaque on popular legend, Timur, the Mongol
the wall sets out his simple conqueror from Samarkand who
philosophy: “Non-violence is sacked Delhi in 1398, came here
the pitting of one’s whole soul to say his Friday prayers.
against the will of the tyrant… Next to the mosque are the
it is then possible for a single remains of a pyramidal structure,
individual to defy the might topped by one of the Mauryan
of an unjust empire.” emperor Ashoka’s polished stone
pillars (see p46). Brought from
a Feroze Shah the Punjab, it was installed here in
1356 by Feroze Shah. It was from
Kotla the inscriptions on this pillar
that James Prinsep, the Oriental
Bahadur Shah Zafar Marg. q Pragati
Mahatma Gandhi’s samadhi (memorial) Maidan. Open daily. & linguist, deciphered the Brahmi
at Rajghat script, a forerunner of the modern
Only some ramparts and Devanagari, in 1837.
p Rajghat ruined structures remain of Khuni Darwaza (the
Feroze Shah Kotla, the palace “Bloodstained Gate”), opposite
Mahatma Gandhi Rd. q Indraprastha.
Open sunrise–sunset daily. National complex of Ferozabad, Delhi’s the Express Building, was built by
Gandhi Museum: Tel (011) 2331 0168. fifth city (see p95), erected by Sher Shah Sur as one of the gates
Open 9:30am–5:30pm Tue–Sun. that indefatigable builder Feroze to his city (see p83). This was where
Closed Mon & public hols. Shah Tughluq. Entry is from the the Emperor Bahadur Shah Zafar’s
∑ gandhimuseum.org gate next to the Indian Express sons were shot by Lieutenant
Building. At one end of a Hodson after the Mutiny of 1857
India’s most potent symbol walled enclosure stand the was quashed (see p57).
of nationhood, Rajghat is the
site of Mahatma Gandhi’s
cremation. A sombre, black The Bazaars of Old Delhi
granite platform inscribed with Old Delhi’s bazaars are legendary. An English visitor over a 100
his last words, He Ram! (“Oh years ago wrote in praise of the “Cashmere shawls, gold and
God”) now stands here. The silver embroidery, jewellery, enamels and carpets” found here.
only splash of colour comes Today the great wholesale bazaars of Chandni Chowk still retain
from the garlands of orange a souk-like quality. Their
marigolds that are draped over narrow streets are lined with
the platform. All visiting heads shops, whose goods spill
of state are taken to this samadhi out onto the pavements.
(memorial) to lay wreaths in Each lane specializes in a
memory of the “Father of the commodity: Dariba Kalan,
Nation”. On Gandhi’s birthday for instance, is the lane of
jewellers and silversmiths,
(2 Oct) and the anniversary while Kinari Bazaar (see p88)
of his death (30 Jan), the Indian spices on sale in Khari Baoli, Asia’s sells a bewildering array of
nation’s leaders gather here largest spice market tinsel and sequins.
for prayer meetings.



090-091_EW_India.indd 91 26/04/17 11:42 am

92  DELHI & THE NOR TH

s Around
Kashmiri Gate
Between Nicholson Rd, Ramlal
Chandok Marg & Church Rd.
q Kashmiri Gate. St James’ Church:
Lothian Rd. Tel (011) 2386 0873.
Open daily. 5 English: 8:30am
(summer), 9am Sun.
This landmark, from where
the Mughals would set off to
spend their summers in Kashmir,
resonates with memories of
the Mutiny of 1857 (see p57).
The short stretch between
Kashmiri Gate and the Old Statues of former viceroys around the Coronation Memorial
Delhi General Post Office (GPO)
witnessed bitter fighting, as d Coronation Ridge Road and Rani Jhansi
the city of Delhi lay under Memorial Road. At its southern end
siege by the British. A final lies the Mutiny Memorial
assault led to the blasting of S of NH1 Bypass. Open daily. (known locally as Ajitgarh), a
the Gate, and a plaque on The Royal Durbar, held in 1911 Victorian Gothic tower that
its western side honours “the to proclaim the accession of commemorates the soldiers
engineers and miners who George V as King-Emperor “both British and native… who
died while clearing the gate of India, was held at this site. were killed” in 1857. Panoramic
for British forces on September A red sandstone obelisk views of Old Delhi can be
14, 1857”. In the 1920s, this area commemorates the coronation. enjoyed from here.
was also a favourite haunt of More than 100,000 people Running parallel to the
the British residents living in thronged to see the King- Northern Ridge is the sprawling
nearby Civil Lines. Emperor and Queen-Empress Delhi University area.
The historic St James’ Church, sit beneath a golden dome St Stephen’s College, one
Delhi’s oldest, is the most striking mounted on a crimson of the most distinguished
sight in the vicinity. It was canopy. Today, it is a dusty colleges dotting the campus,
consecrated in 1836 by Colonel and forlorn spot, surrounded was designed by Walter
James Skinner. A flamboyant by statues of former viceroys, George in 1938. The office
adventurer of mixed parentage including Lords Hardinge of the Vice Chancellor, once
who was rejected by the and Willingdon the guesthouse for British
British Army, Skinner raised his (distinguished officials, is also the spot
own cavalry regiment, which for their role in the where the young Lord
proceeded to fight with great construction of Louis Mountbatten
distinction. The church was New Delhi). proposed to
erected in fufilment of a vow Towering over Edwina Ashley
Skinner made on the battlefield. them all is the Coronation Memorial in 1922. A plaque
An unusual structure, the 22-m (72-ft) high statue celebrates the
church is in the shape of a of the King-Emperor himself, event. They eventually became
Greek cross, surmounted by which was removed from the India’s last viceroy and vicereine.
an imposing eight-leafed Statue Canopy at India Gate
dome. Its two stained-glass (see p78) and installed here in
windows were installed in the 1960s. f The Ridge
the 1860s. A marble tablet in About 3 km (2 miles) south- Upper Ridge Rd. q Kashmiri Gate.
front of the altar east is a forested park area Open daily. Buddha Jayanti Park:
marks Skinner’s known as the Northern Open daily.
simple grave. Ridge, cut through by
Delhi’s ridge, the last outcrop of
the Aravalli Hills extending
northwards from Rajasthan, runs
diagonally across the city from
southwest to northeast. The
area was originally developed
by Feroze Shah Tughluq in the
late 14th century as his hunting
resort. The ruins of his many
lodges can still be seen here.
The impressive Neo-Classical edifice of St James’ Church This green belt of undulating,
For hotels and restaurants in tis region see p694 and pp706–707


092-093_EW_India.indd 92 04/05/17 3:23 pm

DELHI  93


rocky terrain is covered by railways. Steam locomotive (ASI), the tomb has an
dense scrub forest consisting enthusiasts will appreciate exaggerated dome and stands
mainly of laburnum (Cassia the collection that traces the in a charbagh, a garden cut by
fistula), kikar (Acacia arabica) development of the Indian water channels into four parts.
and flame of the forest (Butea railways from 1853, when the Its façade is extensively orna-
monosperma), interspersed first 34 km (21 miles) of railway mented with well-preserved
with brightly coloured splashes between Bombay (now Mumbai) plaster carving and the central
of bougainvillea. and Thane were laid. The wealth chamber has some fine stone
A large area in the centre is of memorabilia on display inlay work on the floor.
now the Buddha Jayanti Park, inside includes the skull of an
a peaceful, well-manicured elephant that collided with a
enclave, with paved paths. Pipal mail train at Golkara in 1894,
(Ficus religiosa) trees abound, and a realistic model of an 1868
and on a small ornamental first-class passenger coach
island is a simple sandstone with separate compartments
pavilion shading the large gilt- for accompanying servants.
covered statue of the Buddha, Outside are several retired
installed by the 14th Dalai Lama steam locomotives built in
in 1993. An inscription nearby Manchester and Glasgow in the
quotes the Dalai Lama: “Human late 19th century, and the salon
beings have the capacity to that carried the Prince of Wales
bequeathe to future generations (later King Edward VII) on his
a world that is truly human”. travels during the 1876 Royal
Every year in May, Buddhist Durbar. A “toy train” offers rides
devotees celebrate Buddha around the compound, and Safdarjung’s Tomb with its garden divided
Jayanti here (see p39). the shop sells a range of by water channels
model locomotives.
g National Rail j Khan Market
Museum h Safdarjung’s Humayun Road. q Khan Market.
Chanakyapuri. Tel (011) 2688 1816. Tomb Shops: Open Mon–Sat.
Open Tue–Sun. Closed public Aurobindo Marg. q Jor Bagh.
hols. & Extra for train rides. = Open sunrise–sunset daily. & Extra Built in the early 1940s to serve
Open 9:30am–5:30pm. 9 charges for video photography. 7 the needs of the British forces
living in the barracks at Lodi
India’s railway network This is the last of Delhi’s garden Estate, Khan Market was named
can boast some astonishing tombs, built in 1754 for in honour of the prominent
statistics. It has a route length Safdarjung, the prime minister Pathan nationalist and social
of 64,460 km (40,054 miles) of Muhammad Shah, the Mughal reformer, Dr Khan Sahib, the
and tracks that cover 113,994 km emperor between 1719 and brother of Khan Abdul Gaffar
(70,833 miles). There are 1748. Marble was allegedly Khan, the “Frontier Gandhi”. Both
about 7,500 stations, 12,600 stripped from the tomb of men were revered for their roles
passenger trains, and 1,350 Abdur Rahim Khan-i-Khanan in the Independence Movement.
goods trains that run every in Nizamuddin to construct it. Frequented by locals and
day. The railways employ Approached by an ornate tourists alike, this popular market
1.6 million people, while 25 gateway, the top storey of offers a wide range of Indian and
million passengers travel by which houses the library of the Western merchandise – from
train each day, consuming Archaeological Survey of India crockery, cakes and dog leashes
6 million meals through to boutiques selling exquisite
the course of their journey. jewellery and designer clothes.
This museum There are traditional sari shops
encapsulates the and others that sell blockprinted
history of Indian garments in both contemporary
and traditional cuts and styles.
Shoppers also have a choice of
excellent bookshops, grocery
stores, colourful flower shops,
and a market that sells stationery
and electric lights next door.
Khan Market is also a big draw
for foodies, offering an incredible
choice of eateries, bakeries and
delis serving local specialities
A late 19th-century steam engine at the National Rail Museum and international cuisines.




092-093_EW_India.indd 93 05/05/17 3:55 pm

94  DELHI & THE NOR TH


century lends its name to this
little village in South Delhi.
The mosque has a fortress-like
appearance, broken by rows of
arched windows, which give the
mosque its name. Its innovative
design was not repeated again
as its many pillared divisions
were found impractical for
large congregations.
Further down is Satpula, the
seven-arched stone weir built
by Muhammad bin Tughluq in
1326. It formed part of a reservoir
used for irrigation, and also made
up a portion of the fortified wall
enclosing Jahanpanah.
Visitors walking by the lake at Hauz Khas
k Hauz Khas star-shaped shadows. East of
Hauz Khas, off Aurobindo Marg,
W of Aurobindo Marg. q Hauz Khas. is a small tapering structure
Monuments: Open daily.
called Chor Minar (“Tower of
Beyond the boutiques, art Thieves”) dating back to the
galleries and restaurants that 14th- century Khilji period. Its
have taken over the village of walls, pockmarked with holes,
Hauz Khas, are the medieval are said to have held the severed
monuments from Feroze Shah heads of thieves, intended to
Tughluq’s reign. In 1352, the deter others from crime.
sultan erected a number of Close by, to the northwest, is
buildings on the banks of Hauz the Nili Masjid (“Blue Mosque”).
Khas, the large tank that was Named after the blue tiles above An arched window with a carved stone jali,
excavated by Alauddin Khilji its eaves, it was built in 1505 by Khirkee Mosque
for his city of Siri. The tank, a certain Kasumbhil, nurse to
which shares its name with the governor of Delhi’s son.
the surrounding village, was z Jahanpanah
revived in 2004 after being S of Panchsheel Park. q Hauz Khas.
dry for many years. l Khirkee Monuments: Open daily.
Contemporary accounts N of Press Enclave Marg. q Malviya
claim that Feroze Shah was a Nagar. Monuments: Open daily. In the heart of Jahanpanah,
prolific builder, and during his Muhammad bin Tughluq’s
37-year reign he constructed The unusual two-storeyed capital, stands Begumpuri
an astounding 40 mosques, Khirkee (“Windows”) Mosque, Mosque, also built by Khan-i-
200 towns, 100 public baths built by Feroze Shah Tughluq’s Jahan Junan Shah. (Ask speci-
and about 30 reservoirs. prime minister, Khan-i-Jahan fically for the old mosque, as a
Among the buildings around Junan Shah, in the mid-14th new one is located nearby.)
Hauz Khas are a madrasa, Feroze The mosque is remarkable for
Shah’s tomb and the ruins of a its 44 domes that surmount the
small mosque. The madrasa, cloisters surrounding the central
close to the edge of the tank, courtyard. It is said that in times
contains plaster carvings and of need, this mosque also
niches for books. The chhatris functioned as a treasury,
(open pavilions) in the entrance a granary and a general
forecourt are said to cover the meeting place.
teachers’ burial mounds. At To the north is the palace
one end of the madrasa lies of Bijay Mandal, from where,
the austere tomb of Feroze according to the 14th-century
Shah. Wine-red painted plaster Arab traveller Ibn Batuta,
calligraphy decorates its interior. Muhammad bin Tughluq
The complex is best viewed reviewed his troops. The upper
in the afternoon, when sunlight platform offers a grand view
filters through the jalis to cover of Delhi, extending from the
the graves of the sultan, his sons The imposing fortress-like Qutb Minar to Humayun’s
and grandson with delicate Khirkee Mosque Tomb and beyond.
For hotels and restaurants in this region see p694 and pp706–707


094-095_EW_India.indd 94 26/04/17 11:53 am

DELHI  95


Early Capitals of Delhi

Delhi’s famous “seven cities” range from the 12th-century Qila Rai Pithora, built
by Prithviraj Chauhan, to the imperial Shahjahanabad, constructed by the Mughals in
the 17th century. Each of these cities comprised the settlements that grew around the
forts erected by powerful sultans with territorial ambitions. As the Delhi Sultans
consolidated their territories, they moved their defensively situated capitals in the
rocky outcrops of the Aravallis, to the northeast, towards the open plains by the banks
of the Yamuna. Today, Delhi is an amalgam of the ruins of medieval citadels, palaces,
tombs and mosques, and an ever-expanding, modern concrete jungle.
Ferozabad (see p91), stretching
north from Hauz Khas to the
banks of the Yamuna, is Delhi’s
fifth city built by Feroze Shah
Tughluq (r.1351–88).


Shahjahanabad
Shahjahanabad was Delhi’s
seventh city, built between 1638
and 1649 by Shah Jahan who Ferozabad
shifted the Mughal capital here
from Agra (see pp172–81).
Purana
Qila
Siri, Delhi’s
second city
can still be
seen near the Siri
Fort Auditorium
and the adjacent
village of Shahpur
Jat. The once Purana Qila (see p83),
prosperous city the citadel of Delhi’s
of Siri was built sixth city, Dinpanah,
by Alauddin Khilji Siri was built by Humayun.
around 1303. It was captured and
occupied by the
Jahanpanah Afghan chieftain, Sher
Shah Sur (r.1540–45)
Qila Rai
Pithora who called it Shergarh.
Tughluqabad






Jahanpanah was built
by Muhammad bin
Tughluq (r.1325–51) as a Qila Rai Pithora, the first of Tughluqabad (see p99), a
walled enclosure to link Delhi’s seven cities, was built by dramatic fort on the foothills of
Qila Rai Pithora and Siri. the Chauhans in about 1180. In the Aravallis, was Delhi’s third
The ruined battlements 1192, it was captured by city built during Ghiyasuddin
of Delhi’s fourth city Qutbuddin Aibak who established Tughluq’s four-year reign
stand near Chiragh. (1320–24).
his capital here (see pp96–7).





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96  DELHI & THE NOR TH

x Mehrauli Archaeological Park

Best known for the Qutb Minar, a UNESCO World
Heritage Monument, Mehrauli was built over
Rajput territories called Lal Kot and Qila Rai Pithora.
In 1193, Qutbuddin Aibak, then a slave-general Dargah
of Muhammad of Ghur (see p52), made it the centre Qutb Sahib
of the Delhi Sultanate. By the 13th century the The 13th-century
dargah of Sufi
small village, Mehrauli, had grown around the saint Qutbuddin
shrine of the Sufi saint, Qutb Sahib. Later, Mughal Bakhtiyar and the
princes came here to hunt and some 19th-century nearby Moti
Masjid (“Pearl
British officials built weekend houses, attracted Mosque”) attract
by the area’s orchards, ponds and game. Many many pilgrims.
of Delhi’s rich and famous now own sprawling
retreats in the area.

0 metres 250
0 yards 250













. Jahaz Mahal
Venue of the
Phoolwalon ki Sair
(a colourful flower
procession), this square
pleasure pavilion, built
during the Lodi era
(1451–1526), seems
to float on the Hauz-
i-Shamsi tank.

KEY
1 Bagichi Mosque
2 Jharna (waterfall) was so-called
because after the monsoon, water
from the Hauz-i-Shamsi would flow
over an embankment into a garden.
3 Hauz-i-Shamsi reservoir was
built in 1230 by Sultan Iltutmish (see
p52), who is supposed to have been
guided to this site by the Prophet in
a dream. Madhi Masjid
4 Mehrauli village Surrounded by bastions
and a high wall, this
5 Zafar Mahal is a palace named fortress-like mosque,
after the last Mughal emperor, dating back to 1200, has a
Bahadur Shah Zafar.
large open courtyard and
6 Dilkusha Gardens a three-arched, heavily
ornamented prayer hall.
For hotels and restaurants in this region see p694 and pp706–707


096-097_EW_India.indd 96 26/04/17 11:42 am
Eyewitness Travel LAYERS PRINTED:
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Date 24th April 2013
Size 125mm x 217mm

DELHI  97


VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
Practical Information
Anuvrat Marg, Mehrauli. q Qutab
Minar. Open daily. n
Conservation Assistant’s Office,
(011) 2664 3856. & = 0 m
_ Phoolwalon ki Sair (early Oct).
Adham Khan’s Tomb
The son of Emperor Akbar’s wet nurse,
Adham Khan murder ed a political rival . Qutb Minar
and was executed by the emperor for India’s highest single tower,
his crime. Akbar later built this large Qutb Minar (Arabic for pole
tomb for mother and son. or axis) marked the site of
the first Muslim kingdom
in North India, established
in 1193 (see p98).




New Delhi











Rajon ki Baoli
This dramatic three-
storeyed stepwell was
also called Sukhi Baoli
(dry well). Nearby is the
five-storeyed Gandhak
ki Baoli, named after
its strong sulphur
(gandhak) smell. These
baolis once supplied
fresh water to the area.








Balban’s Tomb
The 13th-century tomb
of Balban, Qutbuddin’s
successor, lies in a square
rubble-built chamber.
. Jamali-Kamali Mosque and Tomb
The tomb of Jamali (the court poet during the late Lodi
and early Mughal age) is inscribed with some of his verses. Its
well-preserved interior has coloured tiles and richly decorated
painted plasterwork. The second grave is unidentified but is
widely believed to be that of his brother, Kamali.




096-097_EW_India.indd 97 26/04/17 11:42 am

98  DELHI & THE NOR TH

Mehrauli: The Qutb Complex VISITORS’ CHECKLIST

The Qutb Minar towers over this historic area, where Practical Information
Qutbuddin Aibak laid the foundation of the Delhi Sultanate Mehrauli, Delhi-Gurgaon Rd.
(see p52). In 1192, he built the Quwwat-ul-Islam (“Might of Open 7am–6pm, 7–9:30pm daily.
Islam”) Mosque and the Qutb Minar to announce the advent & 8 = 0 _ Phoolwalon ki
Sair (early Oct).
of the Muslim sultans. The mosque is a patchwork fusion of
decorative Hindu panels, salvaged from razed temples
around the site, and Islamic domes and arches. Later,
Iltutmish, Alauddin Khilji and Feroze Shah Tughluq added
more structures, heralding a new architectural style.

Qutb Minar
The five-storeyed
Victory Tower started
by Qutbuddin Aibak
was completed by his Iron Pillar
successor, Iltutmish. This 4th-century pillar,
originally made as a
flagstaff in Vishnu’s
honour, is a tribute
to ancient Indian
metallurgy.












Entrance
Carved Panels
Panels carved
with inscriptions
from the Koran
embellish the
gateway.














Alai Darwaza
This gateway to the complex,
erected in 1311 by Alauddin Khilji, is Quwwat-ul-Islam Mosque
one of the earliest buildings in India Hindu motifs, such as bells and
to employ the Islamic principles of garlands, are clearly visible on
arched construction. the pillars of this mosque.
For hotels and restaurants in this region see p694 and pp706–707


098-099_EW_India.indd 98 26/04/17 11:42 am
Eyewitness Travel LAYERS PRINTED:
Catalogue template “UK” LAYER
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Date 12th July 2013
Size 125mm x 217mm