(DK Eyewitness) Travel Guide - India

R A JASTHAN  399























Winding ramparts of the indomitable Kumbhalgarh Fort
the pillars, as the sun moves offered a commanding view of Another interesting temple,
from east to west each day, is one the countryside for miles around. the Navachoki Mamdeva
of the glories of this monument. Built by Maharana Kumbha Temple, is in a gorge to the east
Equally stunning is the superb (r.1433–68), who also built the of Kartargarh. It contains several
filigree carving on the concentric great fort of Chittorgarh (see p334), slabs of black granite inscribed
ceiling pendants, and the exu be­ Kumbhalgarh was justly reputed with the history of Mewar, with
rant grace of the goddesses who to be the most impregnable fort the earliest slab dating to 1491.
form the support brackets. On one in Rajasthan. Its ramparts are Next to it is the cenotaph of
of the columns facing the sanctum, wide enough for six horsemen to Maharana Kumbha.
a carved panel with two figures ride abreast, and seven fortified Kumbhalgarh was also the
on it depicts Dharna Shah, the gates, studded with threatening birthplace of Maharana Pratap
builder of the temple, who was spikes, lead to its entrance. (1540–97), a great warrior king
a minister of the maharana of The crenellated walls of the fort who was famous for his heroic
Mewar, and his architect, Depa. enclose the smaller fortress of stand against the armies of the
A wall topped with spires Kartargarh, several palaces and Mughal emperor Akbar.
surrounds this serene temple temples now in ruins, fields, water
complex, which also has a reservoirs and stables. Standing Environs
Hindu Sun Temple, and two at the highest point of the fort is The Kumbhalgarh Wildlife
other Jain temples. Of these, the Badal Mahal, a 19th­century Sanctuary covers 578 sq km
the 15th­cen tury Parsvanatha addition with airy chambers and (223 sq miles) of the Aravalli
Temple is distinguished by fine wall paintings of hunting Hills, west of the fort, on the
the exceptionally fine pierced scenes. The 15th­century leeward side. Panthers, flying
stonework on its windows. Neelkantha Temple, which also squirrels, wolves and many bird
lies within the fort, has a huge species can be seen here.
Shivalinga and is still in use. Kankroli, 35 km (22 miles)
s Kumbhalgarh southeast of Kumbhalgarh, has
the 17th­century Dwarkadhish
Rajsamand district. 63 km (39 miles)
N of Udaipur. £ Kankroli, 35 km Temple on the southern shore
(21 miles) SE of Kumbhalgarh, of Rajsamand Lake. The western
then bus. @ & shore is lined with lovely marble
pavilions and ghats.
Like a gigantic brown snake, the The charming little town
great ramparts of Kumbhalgarh of Deogarh, 55 km (34 miles)
Fort wind along the rugged north of Kumbhalgarh, set
contours of the Aravalli Hills for among lakes and hills, has the
36 km (22 miles). This massive 17th­century Rajmahal Palace
15th­century fort, strategically with exquisite wall murals,
located at a height of 1,050 m and the Anjaneshwar Maha dev
(3,445 ft) along the border Temple in a cave in the hillside.
between Marwar (Jodhpur) and Deogarh is also a popular base
Mewar (Udaipur), was known as A deity on the fort wall, believed to prevent for horse safaris, which explore
“The Eye of Mewar”, because it evil happenings this picturesque part of Mewar.




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400  Western india


Marblework in Jain Temples

rajasthan’s most outstanding Jain temples, at
ranakpur and at dilwara in Mount abu (see p398),
are breathtaking in the wealth and variety of their
sculptural ornamentation. Made of white marble
quarried at Makrana, which also provided the marble
for the taj Mahal, the ranakpur and dilwara temples
are architectual marvels. above all, they are testimony
to the incredible artistry of the marble carvers
who created these masterpieces. Visitors should This four-faced image of
use binoculars to fully appreciate the astounding work Adinath, the first tirthankara,
stands in Ranakpur’s main
on the ceilings and pillars. sanctum. It faces the four
cardinal directions.

The Jain Religion
Jainism, founded in the
6th century BC, is based
on a doctrine of non-
violence towards all
living beings. Jains are
strict vegetarians, and the
more orthodox
ones cover their mouths
to avoid inadvertently
Jain nuns with covered swallowing living
mouths organisms. Jains believe
in 24 tirthankaras or
crossing-makers, enlightened beings who guide
others across the “river of transmigration” (the
journey of the soul from one life to the next). The
first of the tirthankaras was Adinath, also known
as Rishabdeo, and the last was Mahavira (born in
540 BC). Regarded as the religion’s founder, his
2,600th birth anniversary was celebrated in 2001.
Jainism attracted many followers among the
wealthy traders and merchants of Western India,
who were also politically powerful as financiers
and ministers in Rajput princely states. As acts of
devotion and penance, they financed the Hall of Pillars
building of several elaborately carved temples in A forest of carved columns connected by
Gujarat and Rajasthan. wavy arches leads to the main sanctum at
Dilwara’s Vimala Vasahi Temple. It was built
in the 11th century.



Exterior
The uncarved
exterior of Ranakpur’s
15th-century Adinath
Temple contrasts sharply
with the profuse
decoration inside. This
symbolizes the Jain belief
in the insignificance of
outward forms, and the
importance of a
rich inner life.





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r a jasthan  401



Corbelled Ceilings
The ceilings are carved in concentric tiers to
symbolize the Jain view of the universe as a series of
cosmic cycles. Marble carvers were paid in gold
according to the weight of the marble shavings they
presented at the end of each day’s work.









Dancers and deities, gracefully sculpted, are
the struts that support the ceiling.
This Ranakpur ceiling is a typical example of the
Rajasthani marble carvers’ art. It is so finely worked
that the marble is translucent in places.








Sculptured panels at Ranakpur show dancers
full of grace and movement.

Pillars in Dilwara
are densely
carved with floral
motifs and figures
in niches. No
two pillars are
identical in their
ornamentation.



Kalpavalli medallions, with
their exquisite patterns
of foliage, tendrils and
flowers, feature at both
Dilwara and Ranakpur.



The Parsvanatha
plaque shows
the 23rd
tirthankara
protected by
a multi-headed
cobra. It is set
into the southern
wall of the Adinath
Temple at Ranakpur.





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402  WESTERN INDIA

d Udaipur

This fairy-tale city, with its marble palaces and lakes surrounded
by a ring of hills, was founded by Maharana Udai Singh in 1559,
and became the capital of Mewar after the fall of Chittorgarh
in 1567 (see p406). The rulers of Mewar, who belonged to the
Sisodia clan of Rajputs, traced their dynasty back to AD 566.
Fiercely independent, they refused matrimonial alliances with
the Mughals, and took great pride in their reputation as the
prime defenders of Rajput honour. The city is dominated by
the massive City Palace, which overlooks Lake Pichola with its
romantic island palaces. Picturesque havelis, ghats and temples
line the lake front, with the lively bazaars of the old walled Lake Pichola, with the Jag Mandir Palace
city stretching behind them. on an island
} Fateh Sagar Lake
Fateh Sagar Rd.
North of Lake Pichola is Fateh
Sagar Lake, with a garden café
on its island. Over looking it is
Moti Magri Hill with a statue of
Udaipur’s great 16th-century
warrior, Maharana Pratap, and
his valiant steed, Chetak.

Jag Niwas, or the Lake Palace, in its magical setting on Lake Pichola Y Saheliyon ki Bari
Saheli Marg. Open daily. &
P City Palace  Jagdish Mandir This delightful 18th-century
See pp404–405. Moti Chhohta Rd. Open daily. Bagore retreat in the north of the city
ki Haveli: Gangaur Ghat. Tel (0294) 252 (its name means “Garden of
P Jag Mandir 2567/241 0539. & the Maids of Honour”) has
Lake Pichola. Open daily. 4 City This 17th-century temple, just ornamental fountains, a lotus
Palace Jetty. & Jag Niwas: Tel (0294) north of the City Palace’s main pool and a rose garden. It was
252 8016. 0 open to non-residents. gate, has an enormous black built for a queen of Udaipur,
The palace of Jag Mandir, with stone image of Vishnu in its whose dowry included 48 maids.
its lush gardens and profusely carved main
marble chambers shrine. The entrance P Ahar
exquisitely inlaid with is flanked by stone Ashok Nagar Rd. Museum: Open Sat–
coloured stone, was elephants, and a Thu. Closed public hols. &
built in 1620. Eight bronze image of Located 3 km (2 miles) east
stone elephants stand Garuda (the mythical of Udaipur, Ahar has the
solemn guard at its bird who is Vishnu’s impressive cenotaphs of
entrance. Between vehicle) stands in front 19 Mewar rulers, and a small
1623 and 1624, this of the temple. Nearby, archaeological museum.
island palace provided at Gangaur Ghat, is
refuge to Prince the 18th-century Environs
Khurram (who would Bagore ki Haveli, now Shilpgram, 8 km (5 miles)
later become the Pichhwai painting a museum exhibiting northwest of Udaipur, is a lively
Mughal emperor Shah Udaipur’s traditional ethnographic crafts village, with
Jahan) while he rebelled against arts and crafts, costumes, musical
his father. It is believed to have instruments and marblework.
inspired many of his ideas for Folk music and dance perfor-
the Taj Mahal. mances are held here every
Jag Niwas, or the Lake Palace, evening at 7pm.
built between 1734 and 1751, was The old walled city, a jumble
once a royal summer retreat and of shops and houses, many with
is now one of the world’s great beautifully painted façades, lies
hotels. It is also a popular location east of the Jagdish Mandir. In its
for film shoots (including James narrow lanes are the Bapu and
Bond’s Octopussy). Both palaces Bara bazaars, selling wooden
can be seen on a boat tour of toys, puppets, textiles, jewels Pavilion in the Saheliyon ki Bari, an
Lake Pichola. and pichhwais. 18th-century queen’s garden
For hotels and restaurants in this region see p699 and pp712–13


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R A JASTHAN  403


VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
Practical Information
Udaipur district. 269 km (167 miles)
S of Jodhpur. * 389,400. n
Rajasthan Tourism, Suraj Pol, (0294)
241 1535. _ Gangaur Festival
(Mar/Apr), Mewar Festival (Apr).
Transport
~ 25 km (16 miles) E of city
centre. £ @
Nagda’s Saas-Bahu Temples, seen through the finely carved torana
century. Beautiful painted cloth
artisans, folk performers, and Temples (“Mother and Daughter- hangings known as pichhwais
replicas of traditional houses. in-law Temples”), twin structures are hung behind it. Non-Hindus
Camel rides are also available. dedicated to Vishnu. The 11th- cannot enter the temple, but
Eklingji, 22 km (14 miles) century temples are entered Nathdwara town’s picturesque
northeast of Udaipur, is a through a finely carved torana bazaar, with its pichhwai painters
complex of 108 temples and and are renowned for their at work, is worth a visit. Pichhwais,
shrines, dedicated to Lord Shiva. elaborate sculptures depicting one of the most vibrant forms of
It marks the site where the amorous couples and scenes Indian painting, are done on stiff
founder of the Mewar ruling from the epic Ramayana. cloth in vegetable and mineral
dynasty, Bappa Rawal, received One of Rajasthan’s main colours. They depict 24 scenes
special blessings from a sage pilgrimage sites is the 18th- from the Krishna legend, each
who lived here. The main temple century Shrinathji Temple at linked with a particular festival
dates to the 16th century. Built of Nathdwara, 48 km (30 miles) or holy day. At the centre of each
marble and granite, it includes northeast of Udaipur. The main painting is a stylised image of
an impressive pillared hall and a deity is Lord Krishna, known Lord Krishna, with dusky skin,
four-faced image of Shiva crafted locally as Shrinathji. His black slanting eyes and intricate
in black marble, with a silver stone image was brought here jewellery, against a background
Nandi facing it. Nagda, a short from Mathura to save it from of verdant foliage, birds, animals
distance away from Eklingji, is destruction by the Mughal and skyscapes. Around the deity
worth a visit for the Saas-Bahu emperor Aurangzeb in the 17th are cows, milkmaids and devotees.

Udaipur City Centre Shilpgram Saheliyon Eklingji, Nathdwara,
JAIPUR
Nagda
ki Bari
1 City Palace S A H E L I
2 Jag Mandir M O T I MA G R I R D
Moti
3 Jagdish Mandir Nehru Magri M A R G
4 Fateh Sagar Lake Island Ahar Nadi
5 Saheliyon ki Bari
Fateh Sagar FATEH SAG A R R D RD
PANCH VAT I
Lake
R A N I
R O
A D H O S P I TAL RD
RESIDENCY RD
COURT ROAD
MOTI CHH OH T A RD Ahar,
Swaroop ASH OK NA GAR RD
Sagar ASHWANI R OAD
Bagore CHITTORGARH
ki Haveli
Jagdish
Mandir Suraj Pol AIRPORT RD
Airport
OSWAL BH AVAN ROAD
City Palace 25 km (16 miles)
0 metres 800 BAPU BAZAAR
BHATIYANI CHOHATTA
Jag Niwas P ALACE R O A D
0 yards 800 LAKE
Sajjan Niwas
Garden & Zoo CITY STATION R D
Lake Pichola
Dudh
Talal
City Railway
Station
Jag Mandir
AHMEDABAD
For key to symbols see back flap
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404  WESTERN INDIA


Udaipur: City Palace
Stretching along the eastern shore of Lake Pichola,
Udaipur’s City Palace is a fascinating combination of
Rajput military architecture and Mughal-style decorative
techniques. Its stern, fortress-like façade, topped by a
profusion of graceful balconies, cupolas and turrets,
has been aptly described by one writer as a massive plain
cake topped with fabulous icing. The largest palace in
Rajasthan, covering an area of 2 ha (5 acres), the City
Palace is actually a complex of several palaces, built or
added to by 22 different maharanas between the 16th Fateh Prakash
and 20th centuries. Much of it is now a museum, and This early 20th-century palace, now
parts of it are luxury hotels. a hotel, has a magnif icent Durbar
Hall and a gallery of crystal furniture.



City Palace
Museum













skilled archers, played a heroic
role in Mewar’s great battles).
Beyond this is the Ganesh Deorhi
Gate, where entrance tickets for
the museum are checked. It leads
into a courtyard decorated with
frescoes of horses and elephants,
and a marble relief of the god
Ganesha surrounded by dazzling
mirror and glass inlay.
The next courtyard is the
Rajya Angan Chowk, from
where steps lead to the Chandra
Mahal (built in 1620). One of the
loveliest palaces in the complex,
Rajya Angan Chowk, with a temple to the goddess Dhuni Mata it has beautiful columns, fretwork
windows and striking marble
Exploring the City Palace The superb City Palace Museum reliefs of Rajput women, one of
The older section of the City is spread out through several whom carries a shield. There is
Palace complex dates from palaces in this section, and is a magical view of Lake Pichola
1568. Behind its fortified walls entered through the imposing and its island palaces from here.
is a maze of royal apartments, Tripolia Gate (built in 1713). Another flight of steps from
reception halls and courtyards. Above the entrance is the here leads to the charming Bari
They are linked to each other Mewar crest – a large Sun face Mahal (built in 1699). Perched
by narrow passages and steep (reinforcing the Sisodia clan’s 27 m (89 ft) above the ground,
staircases – a feature typical of claim to be descended from it is built on a terraced hillside
Rajput palaces of that period, the Sun), flanked by Rajput and that is completely enclosed
designed to confuse invaders. Bhil warriors (the tribal Bhils, within the palace walls. Deep
For hotels and restaurants in this region see p699 and pp712–13


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R A JASTHAN  405


VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
Practical Information
City Palace Complex.
Tel (0294) 252 8016. Open daily.
& Photography restricted. m
Museum: Extra charges for photo-
graphy. 8 - Fateh Prakash:
0 open to non-residents. Shiv
Niwas: 0 open to non-residents.
City Palace, on the eastern shore of Lake Pichola
Shiv Niwas
This sumptuously
Shambhu Niwas decorated crescent-
is now home to shaped palace was the
the descendants royal guesthouse and
of the maharana. is now a luxury hotel.

Fateh Prakash



Shiv Niwas











(“Glass Turret”) inlaid with drowned. Still further left is
red and silver glass, and the the Mor Chowk (“Peacock
Krishna Niwas, which exhibits Courtyard”) with its brilliantly
outstanding Mewar miniature coloured 19th-century mosaics
paintings (see p409). This of three dancing peacocks.
was the room of 16-year-old The southern end of the City
Princess Krishna Palace complex has
Kumari, who three other opulent
committed suicide palaces built in the
in 1807 when rival late 19th and early
suitors from Jodhpur 20th centuries –
and Jaipur Shambhu Niwas,
threatened to go to where the descen-
war over her hand. dants of the rulers
To the left of this now live; Fateh
Kanch Burj, with its dazzling decoration palace is the ornate Prakash with its
of red and silver glass Moti Mahal, the magnificent Durbar
chamber of the Hall, fine portraits
halls with receding rows of dissolute Maharana and gallery of crystal
carved arches open into an Jawan Singh Mosaic of dancing pea cock furniture; and the
enchanting courtyard with (r.1828–38), who in the Mor Chowk semicircular Shiv
a marble pool in the middle. once promised a Niwas, built as the
Tall neem trees stand around dancing girl half his kingdom royal guest house (Queen
it, pro viding dappled shade. if she could walk a tightrope Elizabeth II once stayed here).
The Bari Mahal leads to the across Lake Pichola. The girl had Fateh Prakash and Shiv Niwas
Dilkhushal Mahal (built in almost managed it when the are now luxury hotels, but
1620) with two remarkable maharana’s alarmed courtiers are open to non-residents
chambers – the Kanch Burj cut the rope, and the dancer for tours and meals.




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406  WESTERN INDIA


was by Sultan Alauddin Khilji (see
p52), whose goal was to capture
not only the fort but also the
queen, Rani Padmini, whose
legendary beauty the sultan had
glimpsed reflected in a mirror.
When defeat seemed inevitable,
Rani Padmini along with 13,000
women committed jauhar – a
ritual form of mass suicide by
immolation, practised by Rajput
women to escape dishonour at
the hands of their enemies. It is
said that 50,000 Rajput warriors
A colourfully painted chamber in Juna Mahal, Dungarpur died in the ensuing battle.
Alauddin’s army then proceeded
f Dungarpur and a profusion of canopies and to sack the fort and destroyed
balconies. The large room on its many of its buildings. Within a
Dungarpur district. 110 km (68 miles)
S of Udaipur. * 42,550. @ top storey is inlaid with a variety few years, however, the ruler’s
_ Vagad Festival (Jan/Feb), of semi-precious stones. grandson had regained it for
Baneshwar Festival (Feb). the Sisodia dynasty.
The next great battle, this time
This remote, relatively unknown g Chittorgarh against Sultan Bahadur Shah of
town boasts some unexpected Chittorgarh district. 115 km (71 miles) Gujarat in 1535, saw the Queen
artistic treasures. Dominating NE of Udaipur. £ @ n Janta Avas Mother, Rani Jawaharbai, lead
Dungarpur is the seven-storeyed Graha, Station Rd, (01472) 24 1089. a cavalry charge and die on the
Juna Mahal, built in the 13th _ Meera Utsav (Oct). battlefield along with the flower
century on a large rock. The of Rajput youth. Once again,
interior of this palace-fort, in The great, battle-scarred thousands of women inside the
contrast to its rather battered Chittorgarh Fort epitomizes fort committed jauhar. The third
exterior, glows with exuberant in its tragic history the valour, and final assault on Chittorgarh
ornamentation, and contains romance, chivalry and strict was led by the Mughal emperor
some of the most beautiful death-before-dishonour code Akbar, who was able to capture
frescoes to be seen in Rajasthan. glorified in Rajput myths and it in 1567. Chittorgarh was
Remarkably well preserved, legends. Sprawling across 280 abandoned thereafter, and the
these include a series of erotic ha (692 acres), atop a steep Sisodias moved their capital
paintings from the Kama Sutra 180-m (591-ft) high rocky hill, to Udaipur (see pp402–403).
in the erstwhile ruler’s bedroom, Chittorgarh’s ruined palaces, Seven massive spiked gates
on the top floor of the palace. temples and towers bear lead to the fort. The first building
The 19th-century Udai Vilas witness to its illustrious and to the right is Rana Kumbha’s
Palace beside a lake, is built of turbulent past, when it was Palace (built between 1433
local grey-green granite in a the capital of the Sisodia rulers and 1468), probably the earliest
blend of Rajput and Mughal of Mewar, between the 12th surviving example of a Rajput
styles. Rising from the centre of and 16th centuries. palace. Its northern side has a
its courtyard is a fantastic four- As Rajasthan’s mightiest fort, profusion of richly carved
storeyed pavilion with cusped it was the target of successive balconies, and a unique
arches, densely carved friezes, invaders. The first siege, in 1303, stepped wall. Elephant
















Impressive Chittorgarh Fort, spread over a rocky hill
For hotels and restaurants in this region see p699 and pp712–13


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R A JASTHAN  407


stables and a council chamber j Kota
comprise its public areas, while Kota district. 261 km (162 miles) S of
the private apartments are a Jaipur. * 696,000. £ @ n Hotel
maze of small rooms, including Chambal, (0744) 232 6527. (
a zenana section. Near it are the _ Dussehra Mela (Sep/Oct).
20th-century Fateh Prakash
Palace, which now houses a The imposing façade of Kota’s
museum of sculpture found fortified City Palace, which
on the site; the Kumbha Shyam dates back to 1625, stretches
Temple, dating to the 15th- along the banks of the Chambal
cen tury, with a fine sculpture river, recalling the princely past
of Vishnu in his Varaha (boar) of this now heavily industrialized
incarnation; and the Meerabai The 11th-century temple of the Sun God, city. Kota’s artistic heritage is
Temple, built in 1440 by in Jhalrapatan well represented in the palace
Meerabai, (see p53) another apartments – every available
remarkable Mewar queen. h Jhalawar surface is covered with mini ature
A mystic and a poetess, she Jhalawar district. 323 km (201 miles) paintings, mirrorwork, murals
defied Rajput convention S of Jaipur. * 48,100. @ n Hotel and mosaics. Particularly
and devoted her life to the Chandrawati, (07432) 23 0081. resplendent is the Durbar Hall,
worship of Lord Krishna. _ Chandrabhaga Cattle Fair with its ebony-and-ivory doors,
The main street runs south (Oct/Nov). and paintings depicting Kota’s
of this temple towards the history. Many of the royal
nine-storeyed Vijay Stambh This delightful little town, apartments now form part
(“Victory Tower”), built by surrounded by orange groves of the excellent Rao Madho
Maharana Kumbha between and poppy fields, is dominated Singh Museum, which has a
1458 and 1468, to commem- by a 19th-century fort, the seat fine collection of wea pons
orate his victory over of the erstwhile princes of and royal regalia.
Sultan Mahmud Jhalawar. It now houses govern- On Kishorsagar Lake, in
of Malwa (see p251). ment offices. An incongruous the middle of the town, is the
The view from yet charming part of the fort charming island palace known
the top of this is the Bhavani Natya Shala as Jag Mandir, built in the 18th
extraordinary 36-m Theatre (built in 1921), which century by a Kota queen who
(118-ft) high sand- was modelled on the grand yearned for her childhood
stone structure, richly opera houses the maharaja had home in Udaipur (see pp402–5).
carved with gods and seen on his European tours. The
goddess es, is old walled town of Jhalrapatan E Rao Madho Singh Museum
magnificent. (“City of Bells”), 6 km (4 miles) Open Sat–Thu. &
The main street south of the fort, has a splendid
continues further cluster of 11th-century temples. Environs
south past some Of these the most impressive Bardoli, 55 km (34 miles)
noblemen’s is the Surya Temple with its southwest of Kota, has one
mansions to stunning image of the Sun God. of Rajasthan’s most beautiful
the Gaumukh About 1.5 km (1 mile) south of temple complexes. The 9th-
Vijay Stambh Reservoir, fed by this temple, on the banks of the century Ghateshwar Mahadev
an underground Chandrabhaga river, stands temple has an outstanding
spring, and the 16th-century the superbly carved 7th-century sculpture of Nataraja (the
Kalika Mata Temple, built over Chandra Mauleshwar Temple. dancing Shiva) on the door
the original Sun Temple, which of its sanctum.
was destroyed during the Environs
devastating siege of 1303. The 14th-century Ghagron
Opposite this temple stands Fort, 10 km (6 miles) west
the 19th-century reconstruction of Jhalawar, is situated amid
of Padmini’s Palace with a lake a landscape of hills, woods
pavilion adjacent to it. The palace and fields, and surrounded
contains the mirror in which on three sides by the Kali,
Alauddin Khilji supposedly saw Sindh and Ahu rivers.
her reflection. Standing further The lush forests, cliffs and
south, past some Jain temples, grasslands of Darrah Wildlife
is the Kirti Stambh. This seven- Sanctuary, 70 km (43 miles)
storeyed tower is dedicated to west of Jhalawar, look just as
the first Jain tirthankara, Adinath. they do in the famous Kota
paintings (see p409) of hunting
E Fateh Prakash Museum scenes – only the tigers and Ebony-and-ivory door in the 17th-century
Open Sat–Thu. & free on Mon. princes are now missing. City Palace, Kota




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408  WESTERN INDIA


little temple on an island
in its centre. The fort and
palace reflected in the lake
make a pretty sight.
Bundi has over 50 stepwells,
of which the most beautiful is
the 46-m (151-ft) deep Rani-ki-
Baori, also in the centre of town.
Built in the 17th century, it is
strikingly similar to Adalaj Vav
in Gujarat (see pp418–19), with
richly decorated archways
Bundi, nestled in a narrow valley of the Aravalli Hills and sculptures of Vishnu’s
ten avatars (see p683).
k Bundi represents a rare example of Situated at the northern edge
the pure Rajput style, with of the town is the 18th-century
Bundi district. 215 km (134 miles) curved roofs topping pavilions Sukh Niwas Mahal, a romantic
S of Jaipur. * 88,350. £ @
n Rajasthan Tourism, Tourist and kiosks, a profusion of temple summer palace overlooking
Reception Centre, (0747) 244 3697. columns and ornamental Jait Sagar Lake. Standing at
( daily. _ Gangaur (Mar/Apr). brackets, and typically Rajput the opposite end of the lake
motifs such as elephants and are the royal cenotaphs, and at
Bundi is often described as lotus flowers. Unusually, the its western edge is an elegant
the undiscovered jewel of palace is not built of the hunting tower, the Shikar Burj.
Rajasthan. Surrounded on three sandstone favoured by most
sides by the rugged, thickly other Rajput kingdoms, but of Environs
forested Aravalli Hills, this walled a hard, green-tinged serpentine Bijolia, 50 km (31 miles)
town has retained stone, quarried locally. southwest of Bundi, on the
much of its historic This stone, unlike road to Chittorgarh, has a group
character. The sandstone, does of three beautiful 13th-century
Taragarh Fort crowns not lend itself to temples, dedicated to Shiva.
the crest of a steep fine carving. Instead, Menal, lying 20 km (12 miles)
hill overlooking the Garh Palace was further along the same road
town, while the embellished by is a delightful wooded spot
Garh Palace spills superb paintings. with 11th-century temples
picturesquely down The palace is standing near a gorge.
the hillside. This entered through the Founded in the early
palace is Bundi’s – imposing Hathia Pol 19th-century, Tonk, 113 km
and Rajasthan’s – (“Elephant Gateway”), (70 miles) north of Bundi,
jewel. Lieutenant flanked by two towers was once the capital of the
Colonel James Tod, and topped by a pair only Muslim princely state in
(1782–1835), the Painting from of huge painted Rajasthan. Its main attraction
British Political Agent the Chitrashala elephants. The most is the splendid Sunehri Kothi
and author of the spectacular parts of (“Golden Mansion”) within the
authoritative Annals and the palace are the Chattar palace complex, every inch of its
Antiquities of Rajasthan, Mahal (built in 1660), and the interior covered with gold leaf,
wrote that “the coup d’oeil Chitrashala, an arcaded gallery lacquer work, moulded stucco
of the castellated palace of (built between 1748 and 1770) and striking mirrorwork. Stained-
Boondi, from whichever side overlooking a hanging garden. glass windows bathe this opulent
you approach it, is the most The murals in these are hall in glowing colours. Tonk’s
striking in India”. regarded as among the finest Arabic and Persian Research
The state of Bundi was examples of Rajput painting. Institute has rare, illuminated
founded in 1341 by Rao Deva The themes they cover include medieval Islamic manuscripts.
of the “fire-born” Hada Chauhan scenes from religious
Rajput clan, and the massive, cere monies, hunting
square Taragarh Fort dates to scenes and other
his reign. Work on the palace princely amusements.
began in the 16th century, and The colours are
it was added to by successive predominantly blue
rulers over the next 200 years, and green, with
at different levels on the hillside. touches of deep
Unlike most other palaces red and yellow.
in Rajasthan, there is very In the middle of
little Mughal influence in its the town is the Naval
architecture. The Garh Palace Sagar Lake, with a Gilded interior of Sunehri Kothi in Tonk
For hotels and restaurants in this region see p699 and pp712–13


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R A JASTHAN  409


Rajasthani Miniature Painting

The intricate and vivid paintings of Rajasthan’s princely states grew out of
illustrated Jain and Hindu sacred texts. Originally, they depicted mainly religious
themes, in bold lines and bright primary colours. After the 17th century, however,
the influence of the more sophisticated Mughal-Persian art tradition brought greater
delicacy of line, and a wider range of colours and themes into Rajasthani art. By
the 18th century, many princely states such as Kishangarh, Mewar, Bundi and Kota
had developed their own distinctive styles. In most schools of Rajasthani painting,
however, human figures are shown in profile, and different colours, seasons,
flowers and animals are used symbolically to express a variety of moods. These
various schools of miniature painting continue to flourish in Rajasthan today.








Jain religious text, early 17th century
Mewar Paintings
Large, detailed compositions, showing scenes
from the lives of the maharanas of Udaipur,
are characteristic of the Mewar School. The
paintings depict festivals, grand processions,
historic battles and religious ceremonies.
The Maharana Celebrating Gangaur (1715) The intricate detail was achieved by using
just a single squirrel hair as a brush.
Bundi and Kota Paintings
The neighbouring princely states of Bundi and
Kota produced outstanding miniatures. Bundi
specialized in depicting palace life and scenes
from Krishna’s life, executed in soft blues and
greens. Kota is renowned for its superb hunting
scenes, set in dramatic forested landscapes,
with wonderful depictions of animals and
foliage. An 18th-century court painter named
Sheikh Taju created many of them. Bundi miniature depicting a palace scene

Kishangarh
Paintings
Famous for his fine
portraits, the 18th-
century Kishangarh
artist, Nihal Chand,
found a favourite model
in the royal courtesan,
Bani Thani Radha, with
her elegantly elongated
features and enigmatic
expression. He was also
known for his lyrical
Bani Thani Radha, often called depictions of skyscapes
the Indian Mona Lisa and seasons. Maharao Durjan in the Kota Forest (1730)





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410  WESTERN INDIA

l Ranthambhore National Park

This park lies in the shadow of the Aravalli and Vindhya
mountain ranges and covers a core area of 392 sq km
(151 sq miles). Its razor-sharp ridges, deep boulder-filled
gorges, lakes and jungles are the habitat of carnivores
such as the caracal, panther, jackal and hyena, numerous Delhi
species of deer, and a rich variety of resident and
migratory birds. The most famous resident, however, is
the endangered tiger, and it is a unique experience to
catch glimpses of this majestic animal. Like other parks
in the region, this was originally the hunting ground of Rajbagh Talao
Ruined pavilions stand
Jaipur’s maharajas, and it only became a Project Tiger on the banks of Rajbagh
Reserve in 1973. Talao, one of the three
lakes in the park. Banas






Ranthambhore Fort
The park derives its
name from this great
Rajput forest fort that is
1,000 years old and
stands at a height of J
215 m (705 ft). Semli
Lakarda Valley Lakarda Valley


J
Gilai Sagar
Padam Rajbagh Talao
Talao Khandar
J
Ranthambhore Jogi Mahal Fort
Jaipur Fort
Sawai Lahpur Valley
Madhopur Lahpur
Tonk
Sambar
Large herds of sambar (Cervus
unicolor) are seen around Nalghati Valley
the lakes, wallowing in the
water and feeding on aquatic
plants, unperturbed by
jeeps and visitors. Khatola
Mumbai
Man Sarovar




Banyan Tree
This enormous banyan
tree (Ficus benghalensis)
lies in the grounds of
Jogi Mahal. Its many
spreading branches are
all supported by roots.
For hotels and restaurants in this region see p699 and pp712–13


410-411_EW_India.indd 410 26/04/17 11:46 am
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R A JASTHAN  411


VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
Practical Information
Sawai Madhopur district. 180 km
(112 miles) SE of Jaipur.
n RTDC Hotel Vinayak, Sawai
Madhopur, (07 462) 221 333.
Delhi
Open Oct–Jun. & Extra charges
for photography. 8 compulsory.
Walking is strictly prohibited. Only
Tiger jeeps hired from the Project Tiger
Sighting the park’s Office, (07462) 220 479, near the
main predator is a railway station, are allowed inside
matter of chance, but the park. = The Dastkari Kendra,
one can often find (07462) 222 892, opp Kutalpura
traces of its activities. village on the way to Kundera.
Transport
£ Sawai Madhopur, 10 km
(6 miles) E of entry point, then
taxi. @ Sawai Madhopur.
Banas

Indian Roller Bird
This is one of the many
species of birds found in
the park. The others
include birds of prey such
as the crested serpent
J eagle and Bonelli’s eagle,
and many species of
Semli
Lakarda Valley Lakarda Valley and water bird.
pigeon, flycatcher, stork
J
Gilai Sagar
Padam Rajbagh Talao
Talao J Khandar
Ranthambhore Jogi Mahal Fort
Jaipur Fort
Sawai Lahpur Valley
Madhopur Lahpur
Tonk
Marsh Crocodile
Nalghati Valley submerged in water or basking on the shores of the lakes.
Muggers, or marsh crocodiles, are commonly seen
Ungulate species are their main prey, and sometimes a
crocodile can be glimpsed dragging the carcass of a deer
Khatola into the water. Monitor lizards and pythons are some of
Mumbai
the other reptiles found in the park.
Man Sarovar
0 kilometres 5
0 miles 2
Sloth Bear
This shaggy bear with
Key short hind legs and a long
muzzle emerges at
Major road dusk to feed.
Railway During the day it
Park border shelters in the
rocky outcrops and
Trail
is difficult to sight.
For keys to symbols see back flap


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Size 125mm x 217mm

WESTERN INDIA  413

GUJARAT

The state of Gujarat has three distinct regions – a corridor running
north to south which is the industrial mainland, a peninsula known as
Saurashtra, and Kutch, which is partly desert and partly marshland.
The state’s 1,666-km (1,035-mile) coastline has attracted seafarers
through the ages, lured by the rich prospects of trade. The Arabs,
Portuguese, Dutch, Mughals and British, as well as Parsis fleeing their
native Iran, have all left their mark on Gujarat’s culture. Fascinating
archaeological sites, superb Jain, Hindu and Islamic architecture, exquisite
crafts and rare wildlife, including the Asiatic lion, are among Gujarat’s
attractions, as are its hardworking, enterprising people. In January 2001,
an earthquake hit Gujarat and devastated the region of Kutch. The Gujaratis’
legendary capacity to overcome hardship and disaster, meant, however, that
they lost no time in rebuilding their lives out of the debris around them.

Sights at a Glance
Towns & Cities
1 Ahmedabad s Bhuj t Somnath
6 Patan d Mandvi o Dwarka
7 Siddhpur Historic Sites National Parks &
8 Vadodara Areas of Natural Beauty
0 Surat 2 Adalaj Vav
q Daman 3 Lothal 4 Nal Sarovar Sanctuary
w Bhavnagar 5 Modhera Sun Temple y Sasan Gir National Park
r Diu 9 Champaner g The Little Rann of
u Junagadh f Dholavira Kutch Sanctuary
i Porbandar Temples & Holy Places
p Jamnagar e Palitana
a Rajkot
PAKISTAN
NH15 NH14 •Ambaji
Lakhpat Khavda • Palanpur
• Bhabhar •
•
Bahucharaji • Mehsana
Naliya • ati NH8
•
Dasada • Sabarm
NH8A
Halvad NH113
• NH8C • Gandhinagar
Kandla NH8A •
Gulf of Kutch Dhrangadhra
Wankaner
• •
NH53
NH8A
Anand •
NH8E
• Dadhoi
NH8B
• Jetpur NH8 Narmada
NH8D • Amreli • Bharuch
Tapti
Key NH8E Gulf of
Una NH6
National highway • Khambhat
Major road
Minor road NH3
Major railway
International border
0 kilometres 100
State border
0 miles 100
Striking façade of the Mahabat Maqbara, Junagadh For keys to symbols see back flap
412-413_EW_India.indd 413 26/04/17 11:46 am

414  WESTERN INDIA

1 Ahmedabad for Friday prayers. The masons
who constructed this yellow
Gujarat’s leading city, Ahmedabad was the state capital until sandstone structure ingeniously
1970. This bustling industrial and commercial centre also has used pieces retrieved from
a fascinating old quarter, redolent with Gujarat’s traditional demolished Hindu and Jain
culture and history. Legend has it that the city owes its temples – the black slab close
to the main arch is said to be
foundation to Sultan Ahmed Shah (r.1411–42), who, while the base of an inverted Jain
out hunting, encountered a warren of rabbits on the banks idol. The mosque’s 15 domes
of the Sabarmati river. Astonishingly, the rabbits turned are suppor ted by 260 pillars
fiercely on his hounds and defended their territory. Viewing covered with intricate carvings.
this as an auspicious sign, the sultan built his new capital The interior is illuminated by
natural light filtered through
at this site and named it after himself – Ahmedabad.
latticework screens.
Outside the east entrance
of the Jama Masjid, close to
the jewellery bazaar in Manek
Chowk, is the Tomb of Ahmed
Shah, with elegant pillared
verandahs, where the sultan, his
son and grandson are buried. In
the heart of the market, echoing
the plan and layout of the sultan’s
tomb, lies Rani-ka-Hazira, the
mausoleum of his many queens.
To the southeast of Manek
Chowk is Rani Sipri’s Mosque,
also known as Masjid­e­ Nagina
The skyline of the city, as seen from the banks of the Sabarmati river (“Jewel of a Mosque”) because
of its elegant proportions and
P The Old City wall depict the intertwining slender minarets. Northwest of
Bounded by Lady Vidyagauri Rd, branches of a tree, carved with Manek Chowk is Rani Rupmati’s
Sardar Patel Rd & Kasturba extraordin ary delicacy. Mosque, dedica ted to the
Gandhi Rd. Heritage Walking Tours: Southeast sultan’s Hindu
Tel (079) 2657 4335. of the fort, the wife. Built in the
A maze of crowded bazaars, Teen Darwaza mid­15th cen tury,
pols (large gateways, leading to (“Triple Gateway”) the mosque
residential quarters), exquisitely straddles the incorporates
carved façades, temples, mosques road, which is elements of Hindu
and sub­terranean stepwells lined with shops and Islamic design,
(vavs) mark the 3­km (2­mile) selling block­ with perforated
square that makes up the Old prints, silverware Tree of Life jali in Siddi stone screens to
City. This area is best explored and bric­à­brac. Saiyad’s Mosque provide privacy
on foot, and the Ahmedabad Close by, along for women.
Municipal Corporation organizes Mahatma Gandhi Road, is the The city’s famous Shaking
a daily Heritage Walking Tour Jama Masjid, which Sultan Minarets, which are located
through the atmospheric bylanes. Ahmed Shah built in 1423, to next to the railway station,
Built at the site of the original enable the faithful to congregate are closed to visitors.
city, Bhadra Fort has panoramic
views of the surrounding streets.
Southwest of the fort is Ahmed
Shah’s Mosque, a simple place
of worship, built in 1414 on the
site of an early 13th­century
Hindu temple.
Perhaps Ahmedabad’s most
photographed monument,
Siddi Saiyad’s Mosque (also
known as Siddi Saiyad Ni Jaali),
in the northeast corner of Bhadra
Fort, is renowned for its superb
yellow stone lattice work. Made
by a slave of Ahmed Shah in 1572,
the twin jalis on the western Teen Darwaza (“Triple Gateway” ) thoroughfare
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp699–700 and pp713–14


414-415_EW_India.indd 414 26/04/17 11:54 am

GUJAR A T  415


P Outside the Old City Museum (see pp416–17) VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
N of the Old City. displays an outstanding
Situated outside the Delhi Gate, collection of textiles. The Practical Information
the Hatheesing Temple was built prestigious National Institute Ahmedabad district. 545 km
in 1850 by Huthising Kesarising, of Design is on the south (338 miles) NW of Mumbai.
a Jain merchant. This intricately bank of the river. * 3,520,000. n HK House,
carved marble temple is dedica­ Ashram Rd, (079) 2658 9172/2657
ted to Dharmanath, the 15th Jain P Sabarmati Ashram 6434. ( Mon–Sat. _ Uttarayan
tirthankara. A paved courtyard Open 8:30am–7pm daily. (14 Jan), Navratri (Sep/Oct).
has 52 cubicles, housing shrines Closed mid­Jun–mid­Oct. Transport
dedicated to different tirthankaras. A spartan colony of tiled k 10 km (6 miles) N of city
A fine example of Gujarat’s houses, the Sabarmati Ashram centre. £ @
stepwells is the Dada Harir Vav was a second home to
lying to the northeast of the old Mahatma Gandhi. It was from
city. Built in 1500 for Bai Harir here that he orchestrated Environs
Sultani, a lady from the sultan’s the final struggle for India’s About 4 km (2 miles) south of the
harem, it has walls and pillars that freedom. His cottage, Hriday city is the Vishala Complex with
are beautifully decorated with Kunj, has been maintained a museum displaying traditional
elaborate carvings. much as he left it, and contains utensils. It also has an excellent
some personal items such as outdoor restaurant for Gujarati
P New Ahmedabad his round eyeglasses, wooden cuisine, set in an attractive rural
W of Sabarmati river. slippers, books and letters. ambience. A short distance to
Across the Sabarmati river, the southwest is the Sarkhej
modern Ahmedabad has some Roja, a beautiful complex of
fine examples of contemporary tombs and pavilions around an
architecture designed by Le artificial lake, built as a retreat for
Corbusier (see p105) and the Gujarat’s rulers between 1445
American architect, Louis and 1461. Its tombs include that
Kahn. The Sanskar Kendra, of Ahmed Shah’s spiritual advisor,
designed by Le Corbusier, has Sheikh Ah med Khattu. Finely
a rare collection of miniature carved brass latticework is a
paintings. The Indian Institute unique feature of this site. Built
of Management (IIM), India’s in the late 1960s, the state capital,
top college for business studies, Gandhi- nagar, is 25 km (16
is in a campus designed by miles) north of Ahmedabad.
Louis Kahn. Close by, the LD Spread over 60 sq km (23 sq
Institute of Indology houses miles), this planned township
ancient manuscripts and Gandhi’s room in the Sabarmati Ashram, has the state’s administrative
paintings, and the Calico with his spinning wheel complex at its centre.

Ahmedabad Old City Centre Airport
10 km
GANDHINAGAR, (6 miles) Calico
1 Bhadra Fort Sabarmati Ashram Museum
2 Ahmed Shah’s Mosque Hatheesing
Dada
3 Siddi Saiyad’s Mosque Temple I D G A H Harir Vav
4 Teen Darwaza Gandhi K A S T U R B A G A N D H I R O A D
Delhi
5 Jama Masjid Bridge Gate R O A D
6 Tomb of Ahmed Shah K A S T U R B A GANDHI RO A D
7 Rani­ka­Hazira R O A D J O R DAN RO A D
8 Rani Sipri’s Mosque Sa barm ati River KHANPUR RD (LADY VI D YA GAURI RD) Rani Rupmati’s R O A D NH 8
9 Rani Rupmati’s Mosque Mosque Swaminarayan
M I R Z A P U R G H E E K A N T A Ahmedabad
Temple
Railway
Nehru Station
Bridge R E L I E F R O A D
Siddi Saiyad’s
New Mosque
Ahmedabad Tomb of
Ahmed Shah’s Bhadra Fort Ahmed Shah MAHATMA GANDHI ROAD Shaking
Mosque Minarets
Rani-ka- R O A D
Ellis Teen Darwaza Jama Hazira C H I N U B H A I
0 metres 500 Bridge Masjid
Victoria N A N D A
Rani Sipri’s
0 yards 500 Garden S WAMI VI VEKANA N D A R O A D
Mosque
MUMBAI, R O A D
Vishala Complex, S W A M I V I V E K A
Sarkhej Roja
For keys to symbols see back flap
414-415_EW_India.indd 415 26/04/17 11:54 am

416  WESTERN INDIA


Ahmedabad: The Calico Museum

A major centre of India’s textile trade and industry
since the 15th century, Ahmedabad is an appropriate
location for this outstanding museum. Its collection of
rare textiles includes royal tents, carpets and costumes;
religious paintings on cloth; embroideries, brocades
and silk weaves; and Kashmir shawls. The exhibits,
most of which date to the 17th and 18th centuries,
are displayed in a beautiful old haveli. The museum Brocade Patka
was established in 1949 by the Sarabhai family, textile This 18th-century gold
mill owners and leading philanthropists of Gujarat. brocade waistband,
patterned with pink
poppies, was part of
. Mughal Tent a royal costume.
This sumptuous 17th-
century tent is made up
of intricately hand-painted
cotton panels in the
kalamkari technique
(see p684). Mughal kings
used these tents during
military campaigns, on
hunting expeditions
and while touring
their kingdom.






Ground
floor











Gallery Guide
The museum, set in the
verdant Shahi Bagh
gardens, is spread over
12 rooms on two floors
of the haveli. The exhibits
are displayed with great
imagination, and each
gallery presents the craft of
a region, a tribal group
. Sharad Utsav Pichhwai or a religious sect. Within
Lord Krishna plays the flute in this exquisite the museum compound,
18th-century pichhwai from Nathdwara (see housed in another fine
p403). It was hung in the temple on the haveli, are the Sarabhai
autumn full moon, when nectar is believed Foundation Galleries, with
to fall from heaven. Note the delightful cow a fine collection of bronze
licking Krishna’s leg. icons and paintings.
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp699–700 and pp713–14


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GUJAR A T  417



VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
Practical Information
Sarabhai Foundation,
Shahi Bagh, N of Delhi Gate.
Tel (079) 2286 8172.
∑ calicomuseum.com
Open Thu–Tue. Closed public
hols. ^ 8 10:15am & 10:30am
(restricted to 20 people by prior
appt only). Garden tour by appt
only. = m Sarabhai Foundation
The richly carved wooden façade of the old haveli in which the Calico Museum is housed Galleries: Open Thu–Tue.
Closed public hols.
Transport
4 San Marco.
First floor









Entrance
. Phulkari
Elaborately embroidered with
cotton thread and floss silk, this
19th-century piece from Punjab
was part of a bride’s dowry.



Telia Rumal
This cotton
kerchief from
Andhra
Pradesh is
made by a
unique
technique, in
which the yarn
is oiled before
being dyed
and woven.
Key to Floorplan
Export textile galleries
Court textiles
Gallery of shawls
0 metres 2
Mughal costumes
0 yards 2
Jain and Vaishnav textiles
Kutch and Sindh embroidery
Kathiawar embroidery
The haveli façade had been Textiles of Odisha
taken to the British Museum
in the 19th century, but Madhubani quilts
was brought back and Phulkari from Punjab,
Outer painstakingly reconstructed Kantha from Bengal
gate here in the 1950s. Tie-and-dye gallery



416-417_EW_India.indd 417 26/04/17 11:46 am

418  WESTERN INDIA


2 Adalaj Vav

The stepwells (vavs) of Gujarat are an
ingenious answer to the water scarcity in
this arid region. Many of these elaborately
ornamented, underground wells are dedicated
to deities, acknowledging the hand of God
in providing life-sustaining water. Adalaj Vav,
perhaps Gujarat’s finest stepwell, was built in
1499 by Rudabai, the wife of a local chieftain, Local women at the stepwell, which is still used
to conserve water and provide a cool and for rest and recreation
pleasant ambience for social interaction.
A series of beautiful platforms and galleries
are built into the sides of the stepwell, all
the way down to its subterranean depths.



The Stepped Corridor
The main corridor leads down five
storeys to a depth of 30 m (98 ft),
through pavilions whose walls,
pillars and niches are covered
with sculptures.


. The First Well
Adalaj has an intermediate tank, 7 m
(23 ft) in diameter, just before the
main well. The octagonal well-
shaft is entirely covered with
fine carvings.












KEY
1 The steps surrounding the first
well were used by people taking
ritual baths.
2 The main well is no longer in
use, but the ramp at the top, used
for drawing water, still exists.
3 Stringed courses
4 Ramp for drawing water
5 One of the three
main entrances
6 Stringed courses, or horizontal
detailing, break the monotony of
plain walls.

For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp699–700 and pp713–14


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GUJAR A T  419


Ornamental Detail
The well-shafts are VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
pro fusely carved
with intricate floral Practical Information
and geometric Gandhinagar district. 17 km
motifs, interspersed (11 miles) N of Ahmedabad.
with figurines. Open daily. Flash photography
is prohibited
Transport
@ Taxis and autos are the best
options from Ahmedabad.















. The First Landing
Balconies, windows,
doors and shrines line
the first landing – a
large underground
platform. Adalaj is best
viewed at noon, when
sunlight filters down
to the bottom.













. Wall Niches
The Pavilions Niches feature in all the
Supported by rows of carved pillars, the pavilions. They are carved
pavilions are flooded with diffused light with motifs of pots, horses,
and provide ideal resting places. flowers and leaves.

Other Stepwells in Gujarat
The 11th-century Rani ni Vav, a UNESCO World
Heritage site in Patan (see p421), is among the most
elaborately carved stepwells, with some 800
sculptures. Built in 1500, Dada Harir Vav (see p415)
in Ahmedabad, is one of the finest examples of
a vav from the Muslim period in Gujarat. The
15th-century Ambarpur Vav, 18 km (11 miles)
from Ahmedabad, is one of the few vavs still in use. Rani ni Vav in Patan, one of India’s largest stepwells





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420  WESTERN INDIA

4 Nal Sarovar
Sanctuary
Ahmedabad district. 60 km (37 miles)
SW of Ahmedabad. £ Viramgam,
35 km (22 miles) N of entry point, then
taxi. @ Viramgam. n Conservator
of Forests (Wildlife), Gandhinagar,
(079) 952717-223 500. & s permit:
needed from Forest Department to
enter sanctuary, (079) 372 3500.
Nal Sarovar sanctuary is one
of the largest bird sanctuaries in
the country. The 115-sq km
(44-sq mile) Nal Lake and
The dry dock at Lothal, dating to 2500 BC the surrounding swamp forests
are best visited between
3 Lothal discovery. They found the November and February, when
foundations of two cities under they attract as many as 250
Ahmedabad district. 78 km (48 miles)
SW of Ahmedabad. £ Lothal–Burkhi the sea, complete with streets, species of waterfowl, including
station, 6 km (4 miles) SW of Lothal, houses, staircases and temples. geese, flamingoes, cranes,
then local transport. @ to Burkhi. Objects recovered from the pelicans, storks, cormorants,
Open Sat–Thu. & ^ seabed, such as a stone slab ibis and spoonbills. Winter
covered with mysterious migrants from as far as Siberia,
Excavations at Lothal have markings (which could be such as the bluish-grey
unearthed the remains of a the earliest form demoiselle crane,
remarkable city of the Indus of writing yet also gather here in
Valley Civilization (see p45) that discovered), and their hundreds, and
existed 4,500 years ago. Located carved wooden logs, can be observed at
6 km (4 miles) northwest of the have been carbon- fairly close quarters.
confluence of the Sabarmati and dated to 7,500 BC. A perennial resident
Bhogavo rivers, Lothal (literally, The discovery of this is the Sarus crane,
“Mound of the Dead”) had a site, which has been the largest species of
navigable estuary to the sea dubbed “Asia’s crane in the world.
through the Gulf of Cambay Atlantis”, has excited Believed to pair for
(now Gulf of Khambat), which historians and life, Sarus cranes
made it a flourishing port that archaeologists all enact a spectacular
once traded with Egypt, Persia over the world, as it Reed beds on courtship ritual,
and Mesopotamia. suggests that civilization Nal Lake performing a synchro-
The site reveals the may have started 5,000 nized dance that involves
foundations of a well-planned years earlier than previously bowing with outstretched
city with blocks of houses, paved believed. They surmise that the wings. Unfortunately, pressures
drains, channels and wells, and city may have been submerged on the habitat from the
12 public baths. Other finds as sea levels rose at the end of resident fishing commu nities,
include beautifully made beads the Ice Age in about 8000 BC. and from growing numbers
and pottery decorated with bird of tourists, are slowly depleting
and animal motifs. Seals with E Archaeological Museum the Nal Lake’s rich variety
intriguing, pictographic writing Open Sat–Thu. & ^ of birdlife.
(as yet undeciphered), and
weights and measures were
also found here. The city was
surrounded by a mud brick
embankment, to protect it from
the peren nial floods that, in
all probability, caused the city’s
destruction around 1,900 BC.
Among the prize exhibits in
the Archaeological Museum
are a copper figurine and a
gold-bead necklace.
In 2001, Indian oceanographers
carrying out water pollution
tests in the Gulf of Cambay
nearby, made an astonishing Graceful flamingoes, a regular sight at the Nal Sarovar Sanctuary
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp699–700 and pp713–14


420-421_EW_India.indd 420 26/04/17 11:47 am
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GUJAR A T  421


11 smaller shrines and three
40-m (131-ft) tall gateways.
Two porches and four columns
from the main shrine are all
that remain today, together
with a well-preserved, carved
gateway with two high
columns. An exploration of
the town reveals interesting
wooden havelis and pillared
mansions, built by Muslim
traders in the 19th century.
Environs
This region has the popular
Exquisitely carved images of Hindu deities at Rani ni Vav, Patan temple towns of Ambaji, 88 km
(55 miles) north of Siddhpur, and
5 Modhera Sun Panchasara Parsvanatha Bahucharaji, 55 km (34 miles)
Temple Temple is the most striking. southwest of Siddhpur. Both
The town also has numerous temples are dedicated to the
See pp422–3. traditional havelis with goddess Amba (a reincarnation
intricately carved façades. of Shiva’s consort, Parvati) and
Another attraction for many they attract large crowds of
6 Patan visitors is the beautiful patola devotees during the four main
sari. This lavish fabric is woven full-moon festivals each year
Mehsana district. 125 km (78 miles)
from Ahmedabad. * 112,050. £ @ in Patan by a single family who in March, June, September and
_ Jatar Fair (Sep/Oct). have passed the craft down November. The pilgrims have
from one generation to the their heads shaved en masse at
The town of Patan was the next. The saris are available both temples.
capital of this region between locally and in major cities.
the 8th and 15th centuries,
before Sultan Ahmed Shah
moved base to Ahmedabad 7 Siddhpur
(see pp414–15) in 1411. The ruins Mehsana district. 128 km (80 miles)
of the old capital, Anhilwada, N of Ahmedabad. * 53,600. £ @
lie 2 km (1 mile) northwest
of Patan, and include an Lying along the Anjuni river,
impressive stepwell, Rani ni Vav, the town of Siddhpur was once
and a water tank. The seven- famous for the Rudra Mala
storeyed stepwell ranks with Complex of Shiva temples,
Adalaj Vav (see pp418–19) as the dating from the 10th century.
finest in Gujarat. This splendid It was later destroyed by Muslim
piece of architecture from the invaders in the 13th century.
Solanki period (10th–14th Historical accounts describe a
centuries), now painstakingly three- storeyed complex,
restored, boasts some 800 profusely carved in stone and Traditional houses with finely carved
individual, elaborately carved supported by 1,600 pillars, with façades in Siddhpur
sculptures. Constructed in
the 11th century by Queen
Udaymati as a memorial to her Patola Weaving
husband, Bhimdeva, its unique Patola is an intricate silk-weaving technique practised in Patan.
feature is its direct as well as The warp and weft threads are coloured in parts by tie-dyeing, and
lateral series of steps leading then woven to form clear designs in a method called double ikat
to the water’s edge. At the base (see p672). Typical motifs include jewels,
are 37 niches, with the elephant flowers, animals and dancing women,
god Ganesha carved into them. interspersed with geometric forms.
Nearby, the Sahastralinga Talav, The craft is laborious – it takes a
a water tank with 1,000 shrines month to weave one sari length
dedicated to the god Shiva, (5.5 m/6 yards) – and its product is
stands on the banks highly prized, especially in a bridal
of the Saraswati river. trousseau. This exquisite fabric was
Patan also boasts more exported to Indonesia, where it
than 100 beautifully carved Detail of a typical patola sari became the cloth of the royal court.
Jain temples, of which the




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422  WESTERN INDIA

5 Modhera Sun Temple

The Sun Temple at Modhera was built in 1026 by
King Bhima I of the Solanki dynasty. It is so precisely
laid out in an east–west direction that the sun’s
rays course through its chambers and strike the
centre of the inner sanctum at high noon every day.
The carvings, both inside and on the exterior, are
extraordinarily detailed, depicting a pantheon
of Hindu deities as well as scenes from everyday
life. An impressive tank dominates the forecourt. The Entrance Hall
This hall has 12 representations of Surya,
The juxtaposition of a tank with a Sun Temple is the Sun god, that depict the phases of the
inspired by Vedic scriptures, which say that the sun sun in each month of the year.
was born from the depths of a primordial ocean.
Shrines
The magnificent
tank is surrounded
by miniature
shrines, topped by
curved shikharas.









KEY
1 The Kund or tank is shaped
like an inverted pyramid. Flights of
stairs create a ripple effect down to
its base.
2 Sabha Mandapa, the
assembly hall, was reserved for
religious discourses and socio-
cultural ceremonies.

8 Vadodara museums and parks. It is served The Maharaja Fateh Singh
by various state transport buses Museum, also within the
Vadodara district. 106 km (66 miles)
SE of Ahmedabad. * 1,306,100. and private luxury coaches from grounds, has a rare collection of
~ 8 km (5 miles) NE of town centre. all over Gujarat, Maharashtra, paintings by the famous Indian
£ @ n Gujarat Tourism, (0265) Madhya Pradesh, Delhi,
242 7489. 8 Vadodara Municipal and Rajasthan. The Laxmi
Corporation, (0265) 243 3116/3118. Vilas Palace, an Indo-
Saracenic pile, was
Situated on the Vishwamitri designed by the English
river, Vadodara owes much of its architect Major Charles
splendour to Sayajirao Gaekwad Mant (see p472) and
III (1863–1939), a former ruler completed in 1890. It is
who transformed his principality still the residence of the
into a progressive centre of erstwhile ruling family,
culture, education and industry. though there are plans to
Today Vadodara, also known as convert parts of it into a
Baroda, is a vibrant city with luxury hotel. The grounds
many interesting buildings, already host a golf club. The majestic façade of the Laxmi Vilas Palace
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp699–700 and pp713–14


422-423_EW_India.indd 422 26/04/17 11:54 am

GUJAR A T  423


The Torana VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
All that survives of the torana,
or arched gateway, are these Practical Information
two intricately carved columns Mehsana district. 119 km
leading into the temple. (74 miles) NW of Ahmedabad.
n (02734) 28 4334.
Open 7am–6pm daily. & 8 -
_ Modhera Dance Festival (Jan).
Transport
£ Mehsana, 25 km (16 miles)
away, then taxi or bus. @




Garbhagriha
The walls and pillars
of the inner sanctum
are richly carved with
images of deities, in
strict order of their
celestial hierarchy.

















Nritya Mandapa
This hall, which leads from
the assembly hall towards the
inner sanctum, was used for
dance performances.
E Vadodara Museum
artist Raja Ravi Varma family; and the Nyaya
(1848–1906). Sayaji Mandir, an Indo- and Picture Gallery
Tel (0265) 79 359. Open 10:30am–
Bagh, a beautiful park Saracenic buil ding 5pm Tue–Sun. &
in the heart of the city, that is now a law
houses a zoo, a court. The city also Environs
planetarium and the has the Maharaja The famous Amul Dairy is
Vadodara Museum Sayajirao University’s located in Anand, 38 km
and Picture Gallery, Radha and Madhava College of Fine (24 miles) northwest of
which has an eclectic by Raja Ravi Varma Art, an institute Vadodara. Synonymous with
collection of Mughal of national eminence. the “White Revolution” that
miniatures, European oil made India self-sufficient in
paintings and royal artifacts. Pride P Laxmi Vilas Palace milk, it helped pioneer India’s
of place goes to its collection of Tel (0265) 243 1819. dairy cooperative movement,
68 striking bronzes from Akota, a Open Tue–Sun, by appt. and now procures one million
centre of Jain culture in the 5th & Golf Club: Tel (0265) 655 5999. litres of milk every day from
century. Other notable sights are E Maharaja Fateh Singh Museum 1,000 milk cooperative
the Kirti Mandir, the samadhi Tel (0265) 242 6372. soci eties. It is open daily
(memorial) of Vadodara’s royal Open Tue–Sun. & to visitors from 3 to 5pm.




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424  WESTERN INDIA

0 Surat
Surat district. 234 km (145 miles) S of
Ahmedabad. * 5,374,400. £ @
n 1/847 Athugar St, Nanpura, (0261)
247 6586. ( Mon–Sat.
Strategically located on the coast,
Surat was once a prosperous
port, and many powers battled
to control it between the 16th
and 18th centuries. At various
times the Portuguese, Dutch,
Mughals, Marathas and British
held sway here, but its importance
began to wane after 1837,
when it was ravaged by flood
Jain Temple in Pavagadh Fort, near Champaner and fire. Many of Surat’s Hindu
and Parsi merchants (see p451)
9 Champaner up the hill are the ruins of the left for Bombay (Mumbai),
Sat Mahal, the seven-storeyed which then gradually overtook
Vadodara district. 52 km (32 miles)
NE of Vadodara. @ _ Mahakali palace of the Chauhan kings. Surat as the premier port
Festival (Mar/Apr). The kings were slain when they on the western coast. Though
refused to embrace Islam after no longer a port of any
The deserted city of Champaner, the Muslim conquest, and their consequence, Surat is today
a UNESCO World Heritage Site, women and children committed a major industrial centre.
is situated at the foot of Pavagadh jauhar (self-immolation). There The 16th-century Surat
Hill. Originally the seat of a Rajput are also two domed Castle, beside the Tapti
Chauhan dynasty, Champaner granaries, the Makai Bridge, is the town’s
was conquered by the Muslim Kothar and the oldest structure. Built
ruler Mahmud Begada in 1484. Naulakha Kothar. by Khudawan Khan, an
He spent 23 years rebuilding Albanian Christian who
the citadel, adding mosques, Environs embraced Islam, the
palaces and tombs within its Dabhoi Fort, 75 km castle has 12-m (39-ft)
massive walls, guarded by huge (47 miles) south of high battlements and
gateways. Champaner remained Champaner, was 4-m (13-ft) thick walls.
the capital of Gujarat until 1535, constructed in the Iron strips were used
when it was conquered by the 13th century by the to bind its various
Mughal emperor Humayun. Solanki Rajputs elements, and all of its
Thereafter, it fell into (10th–14th centuries). Detail from the joints were filled with
gradual decline. It is an interesting Jama Masjid molten lead, to make
Much of Champaner lies in example of Rajput it as impenetrable as
ruins today, with the remains of military architecture, with four possible. Especially noteworthy
many old mosques and palaces gates, a water tank fed by an is the imposing gateway in its
reflecting a blend of Islamic and aqueduct and fields within eastern wing, with a menacingly
Jain traditions. The Jama Masjid, the fort to provide food spiked exterior, and a delicately
built in 1523, is a large, symmetrical during a siege. carved interior. Sadly, sundry
structure with a perfectly offices now housed within the
proportioned dome. Its richly castle have robbed it of its
ornamented exterior with 172 historic ambience.
pillars and 30-m (98-ft) high Northeast of the castle, just
minarets, makes it one of the beyond Kataragama Gate, are the
finest Islamic monuments in English, Dutch and Armenian
western India. Another elegant cemeteries, that bear witness
mosque here is the 16th-century to the city’s cosmopolitan past.
Nagina Masjid. Though now overgrown, they
The Pavagadh Fort, at the are worth exploring for the
crest of the 820-m (2,690-ft) intriguing personal histories
high Pavagadh Hill, is 4 km recounted on the tombs’
(2 miles) to the southwest epitaphs. Particularly impressive
of Champaner. It has a cluster is the mausoleum of Sir George
of Muslim, Hindu and Jain Oxinden, a governor of the
shrines, and the ruins of an Surat Port, and his brother, in
ancient fortification, reflecting Ruins of the 16th-century Jama Masjid the British cemetery. The tomb
its chequered past. On the way in Champaner of Baron Adriaan van Reede,
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp699–700 and pp713–14


424-425_EW_India.indd 424 26/04/17 11:47 am
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Date 12th July 2013
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GUJAR A T  425


built in the 17th century, in the
Dutch cemetery has an enormous Festivals of Gujarat
double cupola. Uttarayan (14 Jan).
Modern Surat is known for Coinciding with Makar
its flourishing textile industry Sankranti which marks
which produces the famous the height of winter, this
tanchoi (brocade) silk. It also colourful festival fills the
specializes in jewellery and is a sky all over Gujarat with
major diamond-cutting centre thousands of beautifully
for suppliers from all over the crafted kites.
world. During the 1980s, the Modhera Dance Festival
city had, unfortunately, become (Jan), Modhera Sun Temple.
a byword for urban squalor, This three-day festival of
and in 1994 suffered an outbreak Indian classical dance is a
of plague. This galvanized the Gateway to St Jerome’s Fort in unique opportuniy to enjoy
city’s administration into a Nani Daman these dance forms in the
massive clean-up drive, which setting in which they were
has resulted in the revival which was built in 1603, which originally performed.
of Surat as a prosperous has a richly carved portal and
com mercial centre. an ornamental altar. The smaller
Rosario Chapel, outside the
fort walls, has exquisitely carved
q Daman wooden panels, depicting
scenes from the life of Jesus.
Daman Union Territory. 390 km
(242 miles) S of Ahmedabad. The lighthouse, to the north
* 35,750. £ Vapi, 10 km (6 miles) of the fort, affords fine views
SE of Daman, then taxi or bus. @ of the Gulf of Cambay.
n Nani Daman, (0260) 225 5104. St Jerome’s Fort, in Nani
∑ damantourism.com Daman, is less grand than Daman
Fort but it houses the lovely
Tucked away in the southern tip chapel of Our Lady of the Sea.
of Gujarat, adjoining Maharashtra, The chapel has a delicate,
is the tiny enclave of Daman, classical façade of 12 columns
which was a Portuguese colony crowned with a cross. Bangles on sale at Tarnetar Fair
until 1961. The Damanganga Liquor flows freely in Nani
river, which flows into the Daman’s dingy bars, attracting Tarnetar Fair (Sep), Tarnetar,
Arabian Sea, divides the town crowds of tipplers from the rest 8 km (5 miles) from Thangadh.
into two distinct parts – Nani of Gujarat, where alcohol is This unique matchmaking
mela sees prospective grooms
Daman (Little Daman), which prohibited. Those who want to promenading the fairgrounds,
is dotted with hotels and bars, take in local colour would be well holding colourful umbrellas,
and Moti Daman (Big Daman), advised to avoid the bars and as young women wearing
the old Portuguese township. explore the farmers’ market or multi-pleated skirts swirl around
Moti Daman is enclosed within the riverside fish market instead. in dance. A girl indicates her
the massive Daman Fort. Its ten The Devka and Jampore preference by approaching
bastions and two gateways date beaches, 5 km (3 miles) a youth for a chat, leaving
to 1559, and it is ringed by a moat north and south of Daman it to the elders to settle
linked to the river. Daman’s well- respectively, are not spectacular, matrimonial details.
preserved churches include the but offer tranquil retreats Navratri (Sep/Oct). Navratri
large Bom Jesus Cathedral, among casuarina groves. or “nine nights” is celebrated
throughout Gujarat and is
marked by nine nights of
dancing in honour of the
mother goddess. Women
perform the garba dance,
whirling around in a circle,
clapping their hands. The
highlight is the exhilarating
dandia ras, when men
and women strike small
lacquered batons to a beat
that gets faster and faster
until it finally breaks in a
frenzied crescendo.
Harbour below St Jerome’s fort in Nani Daman, Daman




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426  WESTERN INDIA


w Bhavnagar the park at dusk provides a
glimpse of the wolves that hunt
Bhavnagar district. 200 km (124 miles) this Indian antelope, and of the
SW of Ahmedabad. * 511,000. ~ nilgai that congregate at
8 km (5 miles) SE of city centre. £ @
the park’s watering holes.
For most visitors, Bhavnagar is
little more than a con venient O Velavadar National Park
base for exploring the magnifi­ n Forest Dept, Bhavnagar,
cent temple town of Palitana. (0278) 288 0222. Open mid­Oct–
Yet Bhavnagar itself is not May. & Extra charges for
without charm – its old bazaar, photography. 8
dotted with merchants’ havelis,
has shops specializing in tie­dye
textiles and gold and silver e Palitana
jewellery. In the southeast corner Bhavnagar district. 52 km (32 miles) Sculptures of Jain tirthankaras along a
of the city, on the road to the SW of Bhavnagar. n (02848) 25 2327. temple corridor, Palitana
airport, is the semicircular £ @ _ Falgun Suth Tera
Barton Museum (built in 1895). (Feb/Mar). with carvings of saints, dancers,
It houses the private collection of musicians and lotus blossoms.
coins, weapons and objets d’art An extraordinary cluster of 1,008 Many images of Adinath are
of a British officer, Colonel Barton, Jain temples crowns the twin enshrined inside. The southern
who served here in the summits of Palitana’s ridge is dominated by the
19th century. Shatrunjaya Hill and 16th­century Adishvara Temple,
The Nilambagh covers the saddle linking with its richly ornamented
Palace, once the for mer them. The first Jain spire. The main image within
rulers’ residence, was tirthankara, Adinath portrays Rishabhnath. It has
built in 1859 and is (see p400), is said to eyes made of crystal and is
now a luxury hotel have visited this hill, adorned with necklaces and
with a great banquet while his chief disciple, a magnificent gold crown.
hall and peacocks in Pundarika, is believed The 4­km (2­mile) ascent
the garden. to have attained to the summit of the hill takes
Detail from the door of enlightenment here. about two hours, a task made
E Barton Museum a temple in Palitana Most of the temples lighter by the spectacular
Tel (0278) 242 4516. date to the 16th silhouette of hundreds of temple
Open 10am–6:30pm Mon–Sat. century – earlier temples on this spires and domes against the
Closed public hols. & ^ site were destroyed by Muslim sky. From the top, there is a
P Nilambagh Palace invaders in the 14th and 15th panoramic view of the Gulf of
Ahmedabad Rd. Tel (0278) 242 4241. centuries. The temples are Cambay and the countryside.
grouped into nine fortified
Environs clusters called tuks, and named
The flat grasslands of the after the wealthy devotees who r Diu
36 sq­km (14 sq­mile) Velavadar paid for their construction. Each Diu Union Territory. 495 km
National Park (65 km/40 miles tuk has a main shrine surrounded (308 miles) SW of Ahmedabad.
north of Bhavnagar) are home by several smaller ones. The most * 21,600. £ Delwada, 8 km (5 miles)
to over 1,000 blackbucks. impressive of the main shrines N of town centre. @ n Diu Jetty,
Blackbucks were protected is the 17th­century Adinath (02875) 252 653.
by the Bishnoi community Temple, on the hill’s northern
(see p389) until the state took ridge. Its ceilings, walls and The little island of Diu covers
over this role. A walk through supporting brackets are covered an area of just 39 sq km














The 19th-century Nilambagh Palace in Bhavnagar, set in a huge garden
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp699–700 and pp713–14


426-427_EW_India.indd 426 26/04/17 11:47 am
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Date 12th July 2013
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GUJAR A T  427


reconstruction at Somnath
continued over the next seven
centuries. The present temple,
made of stone, was built in 1950.
East of the temple, at the
confluence of three rivers, is
Triveni Tirth. The ghats going
down to the sea at this spot are
said to mark the place where
Lord Krishna’s funeral rites were
The abandoned seaside fort at Diu, dating to the 16th century performed, after a hunter mistook
him for a deer and killed him.
(15 sq miles). Once known as the linked to the island’s history.
“Gibraltar of the East”, it was a The beach at Nagoa, 7 km
flourishing Portuguese colony (4 miles) from the town, has y Sasan Gir
from the 16th century onwards. a long stretch of sand fringed National Park
It was ceded to India in 1961 with palm trees. Other beaches
and is today a Union Territory within easy reach of Diu are Junagadh district. 368 km (229 miles)
administered by the Central Jallandhar and Chakratirth, SW of Ahmedabad. Entry point: Sasan
Government. The majestic Diu which has a sunset viewpoint. Gir. £ @ n For permits contact
Fort on the eastern end of the As a Union Territory, Diu is Field Director, Sinh Sadan, Sasan
island dominates the town. Built not subject to Gujarat’s Gir (02877) 28 5541. Open mid-Oct–
mid-Jun. & Extra charges for
in 1535, when the Portuguese prohibition laws. This explains photography. 8 Jeeps available.
took control of Diu, it is worth the profusion of bars in the
a visit for its impressive double town, and the invasion, on Until the early 1900s, the Asiatic
moat, its old cannons and for weekends, by thirsty Gujaratis. lion roamed vast areas of India,
the superb views of the sunset from Gujarat all the way to Bihar
it offers. in the east. Now, the Sasan Gir
Diu town, sandwiched t Somnath National Park is the lion’s only
between the fort to the east Junagadh district. 406 km (252 miles) habitat outside Africa. Asiatic
and the city wall to the west, SW of Ahmedabad. @ ^ lions are smaller than African
retains a distinctly Portuguese ones, with a fold of skin along
atmosphere in its churches and Situated on the coast with the belly. The males have
its many mansions. The Nagar a commanding view of the shorter manes. About 320 lions
Seth Haveli is particularly Arabian Sea, the Somnath live in Gir’s 259 sq km (100 sq
outstanding, with carved Temple is revered as one of the miles) of dry scrub forest. By the
balconies and stone lions. The 12 most sacred sites dedicated early 1900s, the Asiatic lion had
Church of St Paul (built in 1610) to Lord Shiva. The temple’s been hunted and poached almost
has a lovely, carved wooden legendary wealth made it the to the point of extinction. Their
altar, statues of the saints target of suc cessive plundering remarkable resurgence in Gir is
and a sonorous old organ. Its armies, beginning in 1026 with attributed to the conservation
impressive Gothic façade was Mahmud of Ghazni, who is said efforts of the erstwhile Nawab
rebuilt in 1807. Nearby, the St to have made off with camel- of Junagadh (see p430) and,
Thomas Church (built in 1598) loads of gold and precious subsequently, the Gujarat
houses a museum of religious gems, leaving the edifice in state government.
artifacts and stone inscriptions ruins. The cycle of pillage and A number of rivers wind
through Gir, making it a haven
for a range of wildlife, including
The Moon God and Somnath the caracal, the chausingha
Legend weaves an interesting tale around the origins (four-horned antelope), the
of the temple at Somnath. Som, the Moon God, was blackbuck and a substantial
wedded to the 27 daughters of Daksha, a son of leopard population.
Brahma, but he loved only one of them, Rohini,
causing great frustration to the other sisters.
An infuriated Daksha cursed his son-in-
law, causing him to lose his lustre.
In despair, Som turned to Shiva
and served him with such zealous
devotion that Shiva gave him respite
from the curse – he would wax for
half the month and wane for the
rest. In gratitude the Moon God
The Somnath Temple, visited by built a Shiva temple at Somnath.
devotees of Shiva An Asiatic lioness basking in the sun in
Sasan Gir Sanctuary
Cluster of Jain temples on the Shatrunjaya Hill, Palitana,



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430  WESTERN INDIA
















Impressive Jain temple complex on Girnar Hill, just outside Junagadh
u Junagadh mausoleums can be seen near have died here. The 12th-century
the city’s rail way station, the Amba Mata Temple, at the
Junagadh district. 393 km (244 miles)
SW of Ahmedabad. * 168,700. £ most notable of which is summit, is very popular with
@ n Majwadi Darwaza, (0285) 265 the Mahabat Maqbara with newlyweds, who come seeking
1170. ( Mon–Sat. _ Bhavnath Fair splendid silver doors. blessings for conjugal bliss.
(Feb/Mar), Kartik Mela (Oct/Nov). Junagadh’s main attraction,
however, is Girnar Hill, 6 km E Durbar Hall Museum
Junagadh, which means “Old (4 miles) east of the city. An Tel (0285) 262 1685. Open Thu–Tue.
Fort”, takes its name from the extinct volcano, this has been a Closed 2nd & 4th Sat. &
ancient fort of Uparkot, built holy site for Buddhists, Jains and
in the 4th century on a plateau Hindus since the 3rd century BC.
at the eastern edge Over 4,000 steps lead i Porbandar
of the town. The fort to the top of the Porbandar district. 404 km (251 miles)
is surrounded by 1,080-m (3,543-ft) SW of Ahmedabad. * 133,100.
massive walls, over high hill. En route is £ @ ( Mon–Sat. n (0286) 224
20 m (66 ft) high in an Ashokan Rock 5475. Extra charges for photography.
places, and a 90-m Edict, dating to 250
(295-ft) deep moat BC (see p46), that Once a major port on the
inside the walls. This conveys Emperor Arabian Sea, Porbandar is today
once teemed with Ashoka’s message of famous as Mahatma Gandhi’s
crocodiles that were non-violence and birthplace. The house where
fed on criminals and peace. Halfway up Gandhi was born in 1869 still
political enemies. An Intricate carving on the hill is a cluster of stands in a small alley, in the
ornate, triple-arched Mahabat Maqbara beautiful Jain temples. western part of the city. Next
gateway marks the Most notable among door is the Kirti Mandir
entrance to the fort. Inside, a them is the Neminath Temple, Museum with photographs
cobbled path leads past Hindu enshrining a black marble image from the Mahatma’s life, and
temples to the now deserted of the 22nd Jain tirthankara extracts from his speeches and
Jama Masjid at the top of the (see p400), who is believed to writings. The city has little else
plateau. Its carved stonework
and pillars show that it was The Nawab of Junagadh and His Dogs
constructed on the remains
of a destroyed Hindu temple. The 11th Nawab of Junagadh (1900–59), like his forebears, had
Nearby is a cluster of Buddhist a passion for breeding dogs, and these pedigreed pooches, 800
caves dating to the 2nd century. of them, were housed in luxury with
The fort also has two fine separate rooms and personal attendants.
11th-century stepwells, the The Nawab even held elaborate
Navghan Kuan and the Adi banquets to celebrate their “nuptials”.
Charan Vav. On the eve of India’s Independence,
In the mid-19th century, when the princely states were given
the nawabs of Junagadh moved the option of either remaining in India
or becoming a part of Pakistan, the
down from the old fort into Nawab’s decision to accede to Pakistan
new colonial-style palaces in was thwarted by popular protest.
the city. The Durbar Hall of The Nawab, however, decided to leave
the City Palace, built in 1870, Junagadh. When the time for departure
houses a museum with the came, the Nawab, true to form, boarded
typical trappings of royalty – Portrait of the Nawab with his the aircraft with his dogs, leaving
palanquins, silver thrones and favourite dog behind his entire harem of concubines.
old armour. A complex of royal
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp699–700 and pp713–14


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GUJAR A T  431


to attract visitors; in addition, it p Jamnagar a Rajkot
has the dubious distinction of Jamnagar district. 308 km (191 miles) Rajkot district. 216 km (134 miles)
housing local mafia dons. SW of Ahmedabad. * 447,800. SW of Ahmedabad. * 966,700.
Interestingly, large sections of ~ 10 km (6 miles) W of city. £ @ ~ 1 km (0.6 miles) NW of city centre.
Gujarat’s diasporic population n (0288) 266 3922. ( Mon–Sat. £ @ n Bhavnagar House,
originated from this district. (0281) 223 4507. ( Mon–Sat.
Founded by a local prince, Jam
Rawal, in 1540, Jamnagar’s old The headquarters of the
walled city is dominated by the Saurashtra region (southwest
Lakhota Fort, the original seat Gujarat) during the British Raj,
of its rulers, and the Ranmal modern Rajkot is a commercial
Lake, which surrounds it. The and industrial town. The centre
fort was badly damaged during of the region’s groundnut trade,
the earthquake in January 2001, it is also reputed for its handicrafts.
though visitors are still allowed Rajkot’s many 19th-century
inside. The museum in the fort buildings give it a distinctly
has fine sculptures from nearby colonial flavour. The Watson
excavation sites, dating from the Museum in Jubilee Bagh, named
9th to 18th centuries. Close by after a British Political Agent,
is the Kotha Bastion, which has a fine collection of portraits
once stored the rulers’ arsenal. of local rulers, tribal artifacts,
In the heart of the old town archaeological finds from
is the circular Darbar Gadh, Harappan sites and a large statue
Entrance to the Kirti Mandir where the Jamsahebs (as the of Queen Victoria. The impressive
Museum, Porbandar rulers were called) held public Rajkumar College, established
audiences. This structure was by the British for the sons of
also damaged heavily in the the Gujarat nobility, remains
o Dwarka 2001 earthquake, but the a prestigious public school.
ground floor is safe for visitors.
Jamnagar district. 453 km E Watson Museum
(281 miles) SW of Ahmedabad. £ The lanes leading off from Tel (0281) 222 3065. Open 9am–1pm,
@ _ Janmash tami (Jul/Aug). here are worth exploring, as 3–6pm Thu–Tue. Closed 2nd & 4th
n (02892) 23 4013. the city is famous for its tie-dye
fabric and silver jewellery. In this Sat. & Extra charges for photography.
Legend has it that about area are two Jain temples, the
5,000 years ago, Lord Krishna Shantinath and Adinath Environs
(see p683) forsook his kingdom Temples, entirely covered with Wankaner Palace, 39 km
at Mathura (see p182) and mirrorwork, gold leaf, murals (24 miles) northeast of Rajkot,
came to live on the seafront and mosaics. Close to them is an eclectic mix of Mughal,
at Dwarka, where he founded is the 19th-century Ratanbai Italian and Victorian-Gothic
a glittering new city. It is Mosque, its doors inlaid with styles. Though still inhabited
believed that the city was mother-of-pearl. In the early by the former royal family, a
subsequently submerged 20th century, Jamnagar was portion is now a luxury hotel.
under the sea. Whether or ruled by the famous cricketer Halvad, 125 km (78 miles) north
not this is myth or fact, KS Ranjit Sinhji (r.1907–33). The of Rajkot, has a 17th-century
excavations of the seabed city acquired several elegant lakeside palace.
have indeed established the public buildings and parks
existence of a submerged under his able administration.
city in the vicinity of Dwarka.
Hindu pilgrims flock to E Lakhota Fort Museum
Dwarka throughout the year. Open Thu–Tue. Closed 2nd & 4th Sat.
The city’s main temple is & ^
the towering Dwarkadhish
Temple, dating to the 16th Environs
century. Built of granite and The Marine National Park,
sandstone on a plinth area of in the Gulf of Kutch, is 30 km
540 m (1,772 ft), it is supported (19 miles) from Jamnagar. An
by 60 pillars and rises seven archipelago of 42 islands, the
storeys to an impressive park’s marine life is best vie wed
height of 51 m (167 ft). from the island of Pirotan.
Situated a short distance
to its east is the small, lavishly O Marine National Park
carved Rukmini Temple. g Jamnagar jetty. For permits
Built in the 12th century, it is contact the Park Director, Jamnagar, Statue of the first principal, Rajkumar
dedicated to Krishna’s wife. (0288) 255 2077. 8 College, Rajkot




430-431_EW_India.indd 431 26/04/17 11:47 am

432  WESTERN INDIA


Africa and the an opportunity to display
Persian Gulf ports. these skills. The Aina Mahal
African slaves were was thus decorated with
an important part Venetian-style chandeliers,
of Kutch’s maritime Delft blue tiles, enamelled
trade, and their silver objects and chiming
many descendants clocks – all made locally under
still live in the city. Ramsinh’s supervision. At the
The town’s main same time, local crafts of
attraction was the the highest quality were also
Darbargadh Palace displayed, such as a superb
complex, which ivory-inlaid door, jewelled
Rabari women, bringing water home, near Bhuj houses the fabulous shields and swords, and a
Aina Mahal or marvellously detailed 15-m
s Bhuj “Palace of Mirrors”. Built in (49-ft) long scroll painting of
1752, it was damaged in the a royal procession, complete
Kutch district. 217 km (135 miles)
W of Ahmedabad. * 121,100. 2001 earthquake but has now with African pageboys. All
~ 7 km (4 miles) N of city centre. been extensively renovated. these form a part of the
£ @ n Gujarat Tourism, Toran The palace and its contents palace museum.
Rann Resort, Mirzapur Bhuj, (02832) are linked to the remarkable The royal cenotaphs, the
224 910. _ Ashadhi Bij (Jul/Aug). life of its Gujarati architect, Swaminarayan Temple and
Ramsinh Malam. Shipwrecked the bazaar are now unfor-
Until the earthquake of off the East African coast as a tunately in ruins, but the
January 2001 reduced much 12-year-old, he was rescued by excellent Folk Arts Museum
of Bhuj to rubble, this was a a Dutch ship and taken to the still stands. It has a choice
fascinating walled city, with Netherlands, where he spent collection of Kutch textiles
beautiful palaces and havelis, the next 17 years. There, he and local crafts, and a
and a bazaar famous for its blossomed as a craftsman, reconstructed village of
rich handicrafts and jewellery. mastering Delft tile-making, Rabari bhoongas (see p434).
Bhuj was the capital of the glass-blowing, enamelling
prosperous princely state of and clock-making. When he E Folk Arts Museum
Kutch, whose wealth derived returned home, the ruler of Mandvi Rd. Tel (02832) 220 541.
from its sea trade with East Kutch, Rao Lakha, gave him Open Mon–Sat. & =
Earthquake in Gujarat
On 26 January 2001, at 8:46am, as India celebrated its Republic Day, a devastating earthquake struck
Gujarat. Its epicentre was in Kutch. Measuring 7.7 on the Richter Scale, it destroyed most of Bhuj,
the headquarters of Kutch district, as well as Anjar, the second largest town in Kutch, and razed
450 villages in the district to the ground. Among the 20,000 people killed in the earthquake were
400 schoolchildren of Anjar, who were crushed under the rubble of falling buildings in a narrow street
as they marched jauntily through town in the Republic Day Parade. In the state capital, Ahmedabad,
most of those killed were trapped in recently built high-rise apartment buildings, which collapsed
like houses of cards, while, ironically, centuries-old historic monuments throughout the state suffered
relatively little damage. An exception was the spectacular 18th-century Darbargadh Palace in Bhuj, with
its richly decorated interiors showcasing the finest Gujarati craftsmanship. Much of the damage it suffered
is irreparable. After some renovation, it is now open to visitors again. In contrast, the traditional, round
mud bhoongas of the semi-nomadic Rabaris of Kutch withstood the earthquake remarkably well. Gujarat,
and in particular Kutch, has always been an
area of seismic activity, and some historians
believe this is one reason that cities of the
Indus Valley Civilization (see p45), such as
Dholavira and Lothal, declined around
1900 BC. In more recent times, 1,100 people
died in the 1819 earthquake and 7,000 in
the 1956 earthquake. The disaster of 2001
made more than 250,000 people homeless.
A massive rehabilitation effort began
almost immediately. Besides the Gujarat
government and the Indian Union, over
150 countries readily came forward to
provide assistance. Above all, it was the
resilience of the residents that brought life
back to normal. Labourers at an earthquake relocation center, Bhuj

For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp699–700 and pp713–14


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Date 12th July 2013
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GUJAR A T  433


wild ass (Equus hemionus khur),
known locally as ghorkhur.
Akin to the Tibetan kiang, the
ghorkhur is distinguished by
a dark stripe along its back.
Only about 1,000 of them now
remain. Known for its speed
(up to 60 km or 37 miles per
hour), the wild ass lives in
herds led by a stallion, and
survives by migrating between
the grassy bets through the
Tranquil seafront at Mandvi, once a busy port seasons, in search of food.
The sanctuary also has a large
d Mandvi spacious dwellings, a lower population of nilgai (blue bull),
town with open spaces for blackbuck, chinkara (Indian
Bhuj district. 60 km (37 miles)
SW of Bhuj. * 14,300. @ markets and festivities, and two gazelle), wolves, and the rare
stadia. An intriguing ten- caracal. Birdlife includes
This old port town has fine character inscription migratory demoiselle
beaches, good swimming, and (which is still to be cranes, pelicans and
camel and horse rides along deciphered) is on the flamingoes, who
the shore. Close to the beach citadel’s northern gate. come to the salt
is the Vijay Vilas Palace, an The presence of large marshes during the
impressive Indo-Edwardian reservoirs and a dam winter months.
pile built in the 1940s as a reflect the existence Dhrangadhra and
royal summer retreat. Its lovely of sophisticated Dasada are both
garden, drawing room and systems for Asiatic wild ass, interesting bases
rooftop terrace are open to harvesting water. found in Kutch from which to visit
visitors and provide beautiful the Little Rann of
views of the sea. In the town g The Little Rann of Kutch Sanctuary. Dasada has a
is the curious 18th-century 15th-century fort and a village
Old Palace of the Kutch Kutch Sanctuary where potters and textile
rulers (now a girls’ school). Kutch district. Entry points: printers practise their craft. The
Architecturally a blend of Dhrangadhra, 130 km (81 miles) family of Dasada’s former feudal
local and European styles, SW of Ahmedabad, & Dasada, 117 km chiefs arrange accommodation
it has a façade decorated with (73 miles) NW of Ahmedabad. and guided tours of the Rann.
cherubic Dutch boys holding £ Dhrangadhra, 20 km (12 miles) Dhrangadhra, capital of a
wine goblets – architect S of park. @ Dhrangadhra & Dasada, former princely state, has
Ramsinh Malam’s touching then bus or jeep. n Gujarat Tourism, a fine 18th-century palace,
salute to his adopted country. Ashram Rd, Ahmedabad, (079) 2657 and a bazaar with interesting
8046. For permits & tours contact colonial buildings. Tours of
P Vijay Vilas Palace Forest Office, Dhrangadhra. 8 & the sanctuary can be arranged
Open Thu–Tue. & Extra charges Extra charges for photography. through the Forest office here.
for photography. Accommodation is available in
An expanse of salt flats and the government rest house.
grasslands in northwest Gujarat,
f Dholavira the Little Rann of Kutch has a
stark and unforgettable beauty
Bhuj district. 250 km (155 miles) NE of
Bhuj. @ n For permission contact – in sunlight, the salt crystals in
the Superintendant of Police, Bhuj, the sand glitter like diamonds,
(02832) 25 0444. Open daily. while at night they bathe the
landscape in an eerie blue haze.
Dholavira is a small village Every year, during the monsoon,
where archaeologists have when the sea and rivers flood
unearthed extensive remains of the region, the salt flats are
a city that dates back to about transformed into great marshy
3000 BC. Lying on Khadir island swamps, with patches of higher
in the Rann of Kutch it is, along ground forming grassy islands
with Lothal (see p420), the largest- known as bets. Some 4,841 sq km
known Indus Valley settlement (1,869 sq miles) of this unique
in India. The site reveals evidence eco system, which supports a
of a remarkable planned city variety of rare fauna, form a
with broad roads, a central wildlife sanctuary that is one Salt pans in the Rann, a major source of
citadel, a middle town with of the last refuges of the Asiatic livelihood in Kutch




432-433_EW_India.indd 433 26/04/17 11:47 am

434  WESTERN INDIA


Rural Life and Art in Kutch

Kutch is home to several pastoral communities, many of
them semi-nomadic herders of camels and sheep. Among
them are the Rabaris, whose round houses (bhoongas)
with conical roofs are a distinctive feature of the Kutch
landscape. These communities are skilled in a variety
of crafts, the vibrant hues and forms of their creations
adding beauty to their stark surroundings. Anjar, which
used to be the crafts centre of Kutch, was tragically
destroyed in the January 2001 earthquake, as were many
of the crafts villages near Bhuj. Despite this, the intrepid
craftspeople continue to work and sell their creations A typical toadstool-shaped Rabari
at shops in Mumbai, Ahmedabad and Delhi. house in Kutch
The Rabari Bhoonga
The bhoongas of the Rabaris, superbly designed for the hot, arid climate of Kutch, are also
structurally solid. Most of them withstood the 2001 earthquake. A typical cluster of bhoongas,
with their beautifully decorated interiors displaying the artistic skills of the Rabaris, can be seen
at Tunda Vandh, 15 km (9 miles) east of Mandvi.
The otla is a platform surrounding
Bhoongas are Shed for the house and shaded by the thatched
built of hard roof. Women do embroidery and meet
packed mud livestock their neighbours here.
and thatch.




The roof is conical,
with a deep overhang
to keep the walls cool.
The parasol-shaped roof
frame is made of wood, Central
covered with tightly courtyard
woven thatch.

Small windows,
set into the thick
walls, are beautifully
embellished with brass
appliqué patterns. Entrance
The thick walls, tiny windows and thatched
roofs provide excellent insulation against the
harsh desert climate. The circular shape helps
the smooth circulation of air inside. Storage jars and
chests, for grain,
milk or clothes,
are made of clay,
and decorated
by the women
with fine bird,
animal and
geometric motifs.
The circular living space is plastered with white
clay, covered with relief patterns and studded with
tiny mirrors to provide more light to its dark, cool
interior. Niches and shelves built into the walls
provide storage for items of everyday use.





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GUJAR A T  435


People
The pastoral communities of
Kutch include Jaths, Ahirs,
Meghwals, Bharwads and Sodhas,
as well as Rabaris. While the men
wander with their flocks, the
women, children and elders stay
at home, adding to the family
income with their crafts skills.


Rabari girls wear
the family’s
finest heirlooms.
Rabari women dress in Rabari men, in contrast to the They begin
black wool, dramatically women, wear only white, with embroidering
offset with silver jewellery. fine embroidery at the back of their trousseau
They also sport tattoos of their pleated kediyans (jackets). dresses as soon as
peacocks and camels, as White-and-red woven shawls they can hold
well as small crosses to and voluminous turbans a needle.
keep away the evil eye. complete their attire.
Craft
For the rural people of Kutch, craft is not just
a means of earning and employment. It is
also a proud and creative expression of each
community’s distinct culture and identity, through
which utilitarian objects such as cupboards, quilts,
shoes, cowbells or clay dishes are transformed Embroidery is done by most semi-nomadic
into art forms. communities. This section of a large wall
hanging shows the work of a Rabari woman.
Rogan, a speciality of
Niruna village near Bhuj,
is a unique technique by
which cloth is decorated
with intricate, embossed
lacquer-work patterns.








Pottery dishes such as this large
platter are used at village feasts.
They are made by the men of the
Leather objects are Kumbhar (potter) community.
made by Meghwal men.
They are embellished
with bright tassels
and embroidery.


Patchwork in vivid
colours, using scraps
and waste material,
is done by Bharwad Silverwork is crafted by the Sodha
women to make items community, who also make jewellery
such as quilts, awnings to order in traditional designs, for the
and camel saddle covers. other pastoral communities.





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Date 15th November 2012
Size 125mm x 217mm

SOUTHWESTERN


INDIA





Introducing Southwestern
India 438–445
Mumbai 446–467
Maharashtra 468–487

Goa 488–513
Karnataka 514–549













































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438  SOUTHWESTERN INDIA

Introducing Southwestern India Jabalpur
Indore Bhopal
Encompassing the three states of Maharashtra, Nandurbar Melghat Tiger Ramtek Gondia
Goa and Karnataka, Southwestern India contains the Reserve Achalpur Nagpur Bhandara
central Deccan Plateau, the narrow Konkan coastline Jalgaon Bhusawal Akot Raipur
and the craggy Western Ghats that run parallel to Dhule Malkapur Amravati Umred
the coast. Its major city is Mumbai (Bombay), India’s Khamgaon Wardha
vibrant commercial capital. The region’s varied Malegaon Ajanta Akola Hinganghat
attractions include Goa’s idyllic beaches and Surat Chalisgaon A j a n t a R a n g e Karanja Yavatmal Warora
Portuguese churches, the ancient caves and Nasik Washim Garhchiroli
temples of Ajanta and Ellora, and the magnificent Kadwa Daulatabad Jalna Lonar Penganga Chandrapur
ruins of Hampi. Further south are Bengaluru, Aurangabad Purna Hingoli
often described as Asia’s Silicon Valley, Virar Sangamner Wari Godri Dudna Hadgaon Hyderabad Bhamragarh
the former princely state of Mysuru, and the Bhiwandi MAHARASHTRA Pranhita Indravati
great Hoysala temples of Belur and Halebid. Kalyan Ahmadnagar
Mumbai Godavari Nanded
Lonavla Bhima Bid Sironcha
Khadki
Alibag B a l a g h a t R a n g e
Pune Daund Udgir
Murud-Janjira Latur
Bhor
Kurduvadi Osmanabad
Mahad Mahabaleshwar
Bidar
Satara
Pandharpur Solapur Hyderabad
Homnabad
W
Chiplun e
Akalkot
s
Karad
Ganapatipule t Bhima Gulbarga
e
Ratnagiri r Sangli Firuzabad Wadi
Bijapur
n

Kolhapur Ichalkaranji Athni Yadgir
Arabian Shorapur

Sea G Managoli Krishna
Raichur
Malvan a Aihole Lingsugur
h
Vengurla t Belgaum Badami
Maharashtrian farmers with their oxen, often Mapusa s Nargund
colourfully decorated Panaji GOA Gadag
Dharwad Hampi
Ponda Hubli
Quepem Hospet
Getting Around Yellapur Bellary
Palolem Kudligi
This region has four international Karwar Haveri
airports, at Mumbai, Bengaluru, Mangaluru Gokarna
and Dabolim in Goa. With domestic Tungabhadra Davangere
airports at Pune, Aurangabad, Nagpur and Kumta Chitradurga
Mangaluru, the region is well connected Sagar
by air. The Indian Railways also cover the Shimoga
region extensively. Fast trains run between Bhatkal Hiriyur
the large cities, and air-conditioned trains Kundapura Bhadravati Sira
also connect most medium-sized cities KARNA T AKA Chik Ballapur
and townships. The spectacular Konkan Barkur Sringeri Tumkur Chennai
Railway runs 760 km (472 miles) along the Udipi Tiptur
coast, from Mumbai to Thiruvananthapuram Halebid Kolar
(in Kerala), over 2,137 bridges, 140 rivers Key Mangaluru Sakleshpur Hassan Bengaluru
and through 83 km (52 miles) of tunnel. National highway Bantval
At 160 km (99 miles) per hour, it is India’s Major road Ullal Srirangapattana Ramanagaram
fastest line. The hinterland is crisscrossed Kozhikode Mysuru Mandya
with numerous national highways, major State border Madikeri
Talakad
and minor roads, and is well connected by Main railway Hunsur Nanjangud
bus. Private operators run luxury coaches Minor railway
on the more popular routes, including Gundlupet
the Mumbai-Goa-Hampi stretch.
Coimbatore
Wooden outrigger fishing boats at Asvem Beach, Goa
438-439_EW_India.indd 438 26/04/17 11:54 am

INTRODUCING SOUTHWESTERN INDIA  439


Jabalpur
Indore Bhopal Gondia
Nandurbar Melghat Tiger Ramtek
Reserve Nagpur Bhandara
Achalpur
Jalgaon Bhusawal Raipur
Malkapur Akot Amravati Umred
Dhule
Wardha
Khamgaon Akola
Malegaon Ajanta Hinganghat
Chalisgaon A j a n t a R a n g e Karanja
Surat Yavatmal Warora
Garhchiroli
Nasik Washim
Daulatabad Lonar Chandrapur
Jalna Penganga
Kadwa
Aurangabad Purna Hingoli
Virar Sangamner Dudna Hadgaon Hyderabad Bhamragarh
Bhiwandi Wari Godri MAHARASHTRA Pranhita
Kalyan Ahmadnagar Indravati
Mumbai Godavari Nanded Colourful floats on parade, during
Lonavla Bhima Bid Sironcha Goa’s annual Carnival
Khadki
Alibag B a l a g h a t R a n g e
Pune Daund Udgir
Murud-Janjira Latur
Bhor
Kurduvadi Osmanabad
Mahad Mahabaleshwar
Bidar
Satara
Pandharpur Solapur Hyderabad
Homnabad MAHARASHTRA
W
Chiplun e MUMBAI
Akalkot
Karad
s
Ganapatipule t Bhima Gulbarga
e
Ratnagiri r Sangli Firuzabad Wadi GOA
Bijapur
n

Kolhapur Ichalkaranji Athni Yadgir KARNATAKA
Arabian Shorapur

Sea G Managoli Krishna
Raichur
h
Malvan a Aihole Lingsugur
Vengurla t Belgaum Badami
s
Mapusa GOA Nargund
Panaji Gadag
Dharwad Hampi
Ponda Hubli
Quepem Hospet
Yellapur Bellary 0 kilometres 100
Palolem Kudligi 0 miles 100
Karwar Haveri
Gokarna Tungabhadra Davangere
Kumta
Sagar Chitradurga
Bhatkal Shimoga Hiriyur
Bhadravati Sira
Kundapura KARNA T AKA
Barkur Sringeri Chik Ballapur
Tumkur Chennai
Udipi Tiptur
Halebid
Kolar
Sakleshpur
Mangaluru Hassan Bengaluru
Bantval
Ullal Ramanagaram
Srirangapattana Mandya
Kozhikode Madikeri Mysuru
Hunsur Talakad
Nanjangud
Gundlupet King’s Bathing Ghat surrounded by verdant paddy fields,
Srirangapattana, Karnataka
Coimbatore
For keys to symbols see back flap
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440  SOUTHWESTERN INDIA


A PORTRAIT OF

SOUTHWESTERN INDIA



The southwest is a region of many and varied splendours. Its three states, Goa,
Maharashtra and Karnataka, contain golden beaches, wooded hills, serene villages
along the picturesque Arabian Sea coastline, and two of India’s most cosmopolitan
cities – Mumbai (formerly Bombay) and Bengaluru (formerly Bangalore).
Mumbai, capital of Maharashtra, is India’s culture and, often by dreams of
largest and most populous city, as well as making it big in films. While Mumbai
its commercial and financial capital. It is is remarkably cosmopolitan, it has
also home to the world’s largest cinema on occasion experienced sectarian
industry, popularly known as Bollywood. strife since the rise of the militant
The city presents extraordinary and Hindu rightwing Shiv Sena Party.
sometimes shocking contrasts – Maharashtra is a vast state, its
the glamorous world of film stars population of over 100 million
and business tycoons exists side by making it politically important,
side with the squalor of slums and and major industries based
shantytowns, where over five on cotton, sugar, engineering
million people (more than one- Green coconut goods and processed foods
third of Mumbai’s population) live. The lending it economic vitality. Strawberry
dominant image, however, is that fields and grape vineyards dot its rich
of an upbeat, street-smart city full agricultural hinter land, but the most
of dynamism and joie de vivre. prized crop remains the Alphonso mango,
Mumbai’s population includes Hindus, a particularly sweet and luscious variety,
a sizeable number of Muslims and which is exported across the world.
Christ ians, as well as Jews, Parsis and other Central Maharashtra has two World
communities from different parts of India, Heri tage sites to its credit, at Ajanta and
drawn by its vibrant entrepreneurial Ellora (see pp480–85). The murals and

























Little fishing boats in Mumbai’s harbour, against a backdrop of the city’s skyscrapers




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INTRODUCING SOUTHWESTERN INDIA  441


as well as lively resorts buzzing with bars,
cafés and discos.
Karnataka is often described as the
geographical and cultural meeting point
between India’s Dravidian south and its
Indo-Aryan north. The state’s varied
landscape and architecture both reflect
this unique melange. Karnataka’s narrow
strip of fertile coastland is backed by the
green hills of the Western Ghats, covered
with forests of fragrant sandal wood and
teak. These slope down to a vast plateau,
watered by the Kaveri and Krishna rivers.
This is the state’s historic and cultural
heartland, dotted with architectural
treasures in an extraordinary variety of
styles. They were built by local
Hindu and Muslim dynasties,
as well as by ambitious rulers
from the north, Maratha
Goan women on their way to Sunday Mass warriors and medieval
Islamic chieftains, all of
sculptures found here testify to the whom had once established
common, ancient roots of Hinduism, kingdoms here.
Buddhism and Jainism. Bengaluru, the state capital,
Many visitors travel by train from presents a sharp contrast to
Mumbai to the tiny neighbouring state Karnataka’s historic sites. As
of Goa. The Konkan Railway, which the ebullient centre of India’s
connects the two, and continues burgeoning computer
southwards to Karnataka, is a wonderful software industry, this once A Hanuman statue in
way to see the lush coastal scenery of laid-back town has been Nasik, Maharashtra
coconut groves, spice plantations and transformed into a globalized,
fishing villages. high-tech showcase for contemporary
Goa was a Portuguese colony from 1510 India. Several multinational corporations
until 1961, when it was liberated by the have opened offices here, while pubs and
Indian Army. The Portuguese departed shopping malls line its streets, catering to
peacefully, leaving behind a rich a young, cosmopolitan population.
cultural legacy in cathedrals and
mansions, music and dance,
and in its distinctive cuisine.
Another legacy of 450 years of
Portuguese rule is in religion –
almost one-third of Goa’s
population is Roman Catholic.
Tourism and related industries
are today a major source of
livelihood here. Visitors from
all over the world throng the
beautiful beaches, which offer
secluded palm-fringed retreats, The lush landscape along Karnataka’s coastline




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442  SOUTHWESTERN INDIA


The Konkan Coast

All along the Konkan Coast, from Mumbai to the south Mumbai
of Mangalore, are villages where, for over 2,000 years, MAHARASHTRA
fishing communities have harvested the fruits of the
sea. A distinctive culture has developed in this area,
protected by the forested hills of the Western Ghats. GOA Panaji
Beyond the coastline are fertile paddy fields, and
KARNATAKA
plantations of coconut, cashew, betel nut, rubber, Arabian
pepper and other spices. This is also India’s monsoon Sea Mangalore
land, where the Southwest Monsoon is at its heaviest, Locator Map
and where Arab merchants, drawn by the monsoon Extent of Area
winds, came to trade long before the Europeans.















Harvesting ripe
paddy is a full-time Paddy Cultivation
occupation for the In wet paddy cultivation, seedlings are raised in a nursery and then
entire village. transplanted in waterlogged fields when they are 30 cm (12 in) high.

Pepper, cashew and
betel nut are some of
the major cash crops
that this region grows
in abundance.

A rubber plantation bungalow is
festooned with strips of cured
rubber hanging out to dry.

Fisherfolk of the Coast
Coastal people belong to different communities, speak their
own dialects and celebrate local festivals. Strong and hard-
working, they are ruled by natural forces.








A basket of freshly caught fish is
Fishermen prepare their boats before they cast off just before carried to the shore to be sold
dawn. The boats return by late morning. directly to waiting customers.





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INTRODUCING SOUTHWESTERN INDIA  443













Coastal dwellings have sloping These women from Mumbai’s
roofs made of tiles to deflect the small Koli fishing community are
heavy rains during the monsoon. dressed in bright festival finery.

Flowers are a common form of
Small boats moored in the adornment and are picked each morning
Konkan backwaters by girls and women for their hair.





Konkan Coast
The narrow coastal strip
that runs along the
Arabian Sea is sheltered
by the verdant slopes
of the Western Ghats.
This region can be
explo r ed either by
road or on the Konkan
Railway (see p438).



Monsoon
clouds herald
the onset of
the monsoon,
when the coast
is lashed by
torrential rain
The Western Ghats, or the Sahyadri Range, from June to
run in an unbroken line along the coast. early September.













Boat building is done by expert artisans,
Dried fish is eaten during the Local fish markets sell a who repair old boats using traditional
monsoon, when heavy rains large variety of freshly methods, as well as build new ones from
prevent fishing. caught produce. locally procured wood.





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444  SOUTHWESTERN INDIA


The Flavours of Southwestern India

A large part of this region lies on the shores of the Arabian
Sea and consequently fish, coconut and rice are the dominant
ingredients. Mumbai is a metropolis, home to many groups of
people, and the city’s cuisine reflects its myriad influences. Further
south, along the Konkan Coast to Goa and Mangalore, the fish
and rice diet has regional variations. Interior Maharashtra has a
large number of vegetarian communities especially around Pune,
although spicy mutton curries are a speciality of the state.
Karnataka’s food is a mosaic of distinct communities such as the
coastal Udipi vegetarian fare and the meat-based food of Kodagu. Custard apple

cumin seeds and dried coconut pp558–9) are also eaten
(goda) and kala masalas. here with coconut chutney
Koshimbirs (relishes freshly made and potatoes.
with cucumber or carrots)
perk up the meal.
In Karnataka, the three staples Coastal Fare
are rice, jowar and ragi (finger Along the Konkan Coast,
millet). In rural areas, ragi is coconuts, cashew nuts and
steam-cooked, rolled into balls fresh vegetables are in
and served with hot chutney abundance. However, seafood
or huli (a spicy lentil dish). predominates and the types of
Variations of the dosa (see fish available range from the
A local woman selling bananas, coconuts Prawns Mackerel Lobster Squid Pomfret Mussels
and other fruit
Sardines
Basic Dishes
In Maharashtra, rice, wheat,
lentils and jowar (sorghum
maize) form the backbone
of the people’s diet. This
accompanies the bhaji (a
vegetable dish) or rassa,
(curried vegetables cooked
in groundnut oil). The food is
distinguished by a blend of
spices, coriander, sesame, Selection of seafood available along the Arabian Sea coastline


Local Dishes and Specialities
The culinary choices in this region are varied
and range from stalls selling spicy savouries,
such as bhelpuri, pani-puri and pav-
bhaji, to beach shacks and specialist
restaurants. Tastes are eclectic and
reflect flavours imported from as
far off as Iran (Parsi) and Portugal
(Goa). Karnataka’s and Maharashtra’s
vegetarian food is complemented by
Cashew nuts the fish, pork and chicken dishes from
the Konkan Coast, Goa, Mangalore and
Coorg. This fertile region yields fruits, such as chikoo (sapodilla
plum), custard apple, mango, papaya and grapes, as well as crops Akuri, spicy scrambled eggs
from sugarcane to cashew, and spices, particularly pepper. During cooked with tomatoes and
the mild winters in south Maharashtra, jaggery is made, and with it, onions and garnished with
a peanut or sesame toffee (chikki).
coriander, is a Parsi delicacy.





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INTRODUCING SOUTHWESTERN INDIA  445



boti (mutton with apricots),
and the popular dhan sak
(a meat-and-lentil casserole).
The Kodavas of Coorg
have a distinct culture and
cuisine and are one of the Hindu
communities that allow non-
vegetarian food and alcohol to
be served at weddings. Pandi
(pork) curry is a favourite and is
eaten with steamed rice balls
(kadum-buttu). Koli curry, a
chicken curry, and bembla
Fishermen unloading the catch of the day, Goa curry, made from bamboo
shoots, are other specialities,
flat pomfret, salmon (rawas) mori chi aamti (a spicy shark as are wonderful rice
and mackerel to prawns, lobsters curry) and bangda (whole preparations such as noolputtu
and clams. Fish is grilled, fried mackerel fried with spices). (rice noodles) or oduputtu (rice
or cooked as curries with fresh pancakes), enjoyed by other
coconut and spices. Kokum (a communities too.
dried sour plum), tamarind, raw Other Favourites
mango or the local Goan vinegar The cuisine of the Parsis of ON THE MENU
are used as souring agents. Mumbai reflects their Persian
Kokum and coconut milk are also ancestory. Their food is mainly Amti Sweet-and-sour lentils.
used to make a drink, sol kadi. non-vegetarian and includes Balchão Prawns or chicken
Although the coastal area patra ni machhi (fish steamed cooked with pickling spices.
has several culinary features in a banana leaf), jardaloo sali Bebinca A multi-layered cake.
in common, particularly in
the preparation of seafood, Kesari bhath Sweet made of
semolina, sugar and saffron.
Goa’s cuisine is different as it
combines Portuguese and local Kolhapuri mutton Mutton
flavours. Some typical dishes with chillies, coconut, aniseed
include peixe a Portuguese (a fish and poppy seeds.
curry with olive oil) and ambot- Moru kolumbu Vegetables
tik (a tangy fish curry with tama- in a yoghurt sauce.
rind). Goan chillies are famed Patra ni macchi Fish with a
for their colour and are used coriander-coconut chutney,
to make the recheio masala, steamed in banana leaves.
which is added to fish, pork Suran Steamed yam garnished
and mutton curries. with dried red chillies and
Malvan fish dishes are Coffee berries from a plantation in curry leaves.
equally tasty, especially the Coorg, Karnataka















Vindaloo, a dish of pork cooked Fugad is finely sliced, stir- Bisibele huliyana, a delicious
in a marinade of vinegar, red fried cabbage, garnished with preparation of lentils, rice and
chillies and other spices, is Goa’s coconut and chillies. Beans vegetables, is a one-dish meal
signature dish. can also be used. from Karnataka.






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SOUTHWESTERN INDIA  447

MUMBAI


Mumbai (formerly Bombay), capital of Maharashtra, is
India’s most dynamic, cosmopolitan and crowded city.
The country’s financial centre and its busiest port,
Mumbai is also home to the world’s biggest cinema
industry, popularly known as Bollywood. Some 20 million
people, from billionaire tycoons to homeless pavement
dwellers, live in this teeming megalopolis.

Consisting of seven swampy islands communities of Gujaratis, Parsis (see p451)
when the Portuguese acquired it in 1534, and Baghdadi, or Sephardic, Jews to
Bombay (from the Portuguese Bom Bahia Bombay, giving the city its vibrant
or “Good Bay”) came to the British Crown multicultural identity. The city has reverted
in 1661 as part of the dowry of Catherine to its local name, Mumbai, from Mumba-Ai
of Braganza, when she married Charles II. (Mother Mumbai), the patron goddess
Finding little use for the islands, the British worshipped by the Koli fishermen who
leased them to the East India Company, were the islands’ original inhabitants.
which quickly realized their potential as an India’s financial and entertainment
excellent natural harbour in the Arabian capital, Mumbai is a city of striking contrasts.
Sea. The rise of Bombay began in the late Skyscrapers stand next to stately Victorian
1600s, when the company relocated its and Art Deco buildings, traditional bazaars
headquarters here. By the 18th century, adjoin glittering shopping malls, and
Bombay had become the major city and opulent neighbourhoods are surrounded
shipbuilding yard on the western coast, by sprawling slums. Swelling Mumbai’s
and by the 19th century, land reclamations population are migrants from all over the
had joined the islands into the narrow country, who continue to flock to this “land
promontory that it is today. The promise of opportunities” in search of fame, fortune,
of commercial opportunities lured or just a bit part in a Bollywood movie.


























Swirling traffic around Flora Fountain in the heart of Mumbai
The Gateway of India, Mumbai’s signature landmark



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448  SOUTHWESTERN INDIA


Exploring Mumbai

Mumbai is a long, narrow promontory covering 603 sq km
M R A MARG
(233 sq miles), which juts into the Arabian Sea. Its downtown is A D
R O A D
the historic Fort area; located in South Mumbai, it derives its name LO K M A N YA T I L A K R O A D R O
from earlier colonial fortifications. This is the city’s nerve centre, KANTILAL M SHARMA STREET
with the best-known sights, hotels and restaurants. The posh
HAZARIMAL SOMANI MARG I N A O R O J I ( D N )
residential area of Malabar Hill lies along the western coastline, RD L L O
KALBADEVI
just north of Marine Drive. Suburban Mumbai, with its sprawling M E
modern developments, stretches northwards from Bandra. A PODAR M A H A PA L I K A M G D '
MARG
F RD St George's P
Hospital
Bombay
AZAD Corporation A Nagar Chhatrapati (Indira) Dock
Municipal
Shivaji Terminus
NETAJI SUBHASH CHANDRA ROAD (MARINE DRIVE) D R D E R O A D Churchgate MAIDAN PHEROZSHAH MEHT A MARG Marshall COCHIN ST K A M A N I M A R G AND HIRACHAND MARG
MAIDAN
CST Station
Wankhede
Alexandra
M AH ARSHI KAR VE R OAD
Chowk
M A R Z A B A N R O A D
D R D A D A B H
WALCH
A M R I T M A R G
Bank of India NGH MARG
PERIN NARIMAN ST
Grand
Hotel
C R D
Building
Back
MAHATMA GANDHI
Old
B R D
Customs
Bay
House
R
S R I VI T H A L D A S T H A C K E R E Y M A R G
Stadium (Q UEE N'S ROA D )
Watcha
KARMAVEER BHAURAO PATIL MG
A R D
Agiary
MINT
S H O O R J I VA L L A B H D A S MAR G
Old Reserve
GHOGA ST
VEER
CROSS (MG)
St Thomas'
JAMSHETJI TATA ROAD
ROAD
Cathedral
Fishing boats, decorated for Holi, at the seafront in South Mumbai Brabourne MAIDAN NARIMAN HOMI MODI ST State Bank SI
Stadium
OVAL
of India
DR V B G BHAGAT
Dockyard
Sights at a Glance DINSHA WACHA RD ROAD A D O S H I M G APOLLO STREET Naval
DALAL ST
Historic Buildings, K DUBASH MG HAHID
Streets & Neighbourhoods JEEVAN BIMA MARG MG
Cowasji
0 Chhatrapati Shivaji Temples & Mosques BARRISTER RAJNI PATEL MARG MAHARISHI KARVE ROAD Jehangir Hall S
YMCA
Terminus pp458–9 u Banganga International BNHS
MADAME CAMA ROAD
1 Gateway of India o Mahalaxmi Temple NCPA Police HQ
PUBLIC
2 Wellington Fountain p Haji Ali Mosque Nariman J BAJAJ MARG COOPERAGE MG GARDEN Regal Dhunraj Mahal
Point
3 Colaba Causeway FREE PRESS JOURNAL JAGANNATHRAO BHOSLE MG Royal Bombay
Yacht Club
4 Kala Ghoda pp452–3 Beaches & Parks MARG COOPERAGE Leopold LANSDOWNE ST C H H AT R A PAT I S H I VA J I M A H A R A J M A R G
Café
MAIDAN
6 Town Hall s Juhu Beach Taj
7 Horniman Circle f Sanjay Gandhi National Park NATHALAL PAREKH MARG ( WODEHOUSE RD) Mahal
Colaba Bus
P J RAMCHANDANI MG
Hotel
Station
Apollo
ORMISTON ROAD
8 Bombay Stock Exchange CUSROW GARDEN RD MEREWEATHER ROAD Bunder
HENRY
9 Flora Fountain Shops & Markets BAUG WALTON R O A D
ROAD
e Ballard Estate q Crawford Market Gateway of India
Ferry Terminal
a Bandra APOLLO BUNDER RD
Entertainment
Historic Sites d Film City L A L A Colaba
w Shahid Bhagat Singh Marg Market
r General Post Office STREET
NIGAM
t Marine Drive
y Malabar Hill C A P TA I N P P E T H E M A R G
i Khotachiwadi Sassoon
g Elephanta Island SHAHID BHAGAT SINGH MARG (COLABA CAUSEWAY) Docks
Museums
5 Chhatrapati Shivaji
Maharaj Vastu
Sangrahalaya C U F F E PA R A D E
pp454–5 C A P TA I N P P E T H E M A R G
H O M I B H A B H A R O A D
For hotels and restaurants in this region see p700 and pp714–15
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