(DK Eyewitness) Travel Guide - India

UT T AR PR ADESH & UT T AR AKHAND  199


exact replica of the Jama Masjid
(see p90) in Delhi, only one-third
its size.

a Jhansi
Jhansi district. 301 km (187 miles) SW of
Lucknow. * 1,998,603. £ @
n Regional Tourist Office, Hotel
Virangna, (0510) 244 1267. _ Jhansi
Ayurveda Festival (Feb). ∑ up-
tourism.com/destination/jhansi
Ramparts of Jhansi's Shankar Fort, stormed by British forces in 1858
Most famous for the role that its
queen, Rani Lakshmibai, played as it was then known, witnessed centre. Northeast of the church,
during the Indian Mutiny of 1857, some of the bloodiest battles in Sati Chaura Ghat along the
Jhansi is a key transit point for 1857. More than 1,000 British Ganges, is the spot where Indian
vis itors travelling from Delhi to soldiers and civilians were killed forces killed 500 British soldiers
the temples of Khajuraho when Nana Sahib, the Maratha and civilians. The Military
(see pp240–42). The main site of ruler, broke the British siege held Cemetery on the edge of the
interest is Shankar Fort, built in by General Sir Hugh Wheeler cantonment has many interesting
1613 by Raja Bir Singh Deo. It in June 1857. When British graves, while in the town, the
has 9-m (30-ft) high walls built reinforcements arrived, equally King Edward VII Memorial Hall
in concentric rings around its ferocious reprisals occurred. and Christ Church (built in 1840)
centre, and offers fine views. Today, Kanpur is an industrial are also worth visiting.
The Archaeological Museum, city with leather, cotton and oil
located outside the fort on the as its main products. The old Environs
road back to town, has medieval garrison, now an enclave of the Bithur, 25 km (16 miles) west of
Hindu sculpture, royal artifacts, armed forces, has some interest- Kanpur, boasts a fort built by the
and some prehistoric tools. ing relics of the Raj. Among Peshwas (see p475). It is also the
them is the All Souls’ Memorial legendary birthplace of Lav and
E Archaeological Museum Church, a grand Gothic style Kush, the twin sons of Rama
Tel (0510) 233 0035. Open Tue–Sun. structure with an intricate and Sita (see p31). About 60 km
Closed 2nd Sat. & Extra charges for stained-glass window over the (37 miles) south of Kanpur, lies
video photography. west door. Built after 1857, it is a the beautiful 5th-century brick
memorial to those killed during temple at Bhitargaon, built by
the siege. East of the church, the the Gupta kings and the only
s Kanpur pretty Memorial Garden has a one of its kind still surviving. Most
Kanpur district. 79 km (49 miles) SW statue of an angel surrounded of the relief panels on the temple
of Lucknow. * 4,581,268. £ Kanpur by a Gothic screen. This statue have vanished, but some terra-
Central, (0512) 232 8170. @ Chunni originally stood at the site of a cotta sculptures inside remain.
Ganj, (0512) 253 0646. terrible massacre, where British
women and children were
One of British India’s largest hacked and thrown down a
garrisons Kanpur, or Cawnpore, well near Bibighar, in the town’s
Rani Lakshmibai of Jhansi
India’s Joan of Arc, Rani Lakshmibai single-handedly defied the
British, when her husband, Raja Gangadhar Rao, died in 1853,
leaving no adult heir. She wished to rule as Regent, but the
British invoked the infamous Doctrine
of Lapse (see p57), and she was driven
from her kingdom. While the Indian
Mutiny of 1857 brewed in the north,
the queen and her general, Tantia
Tope, captured Gwalior Fort. She
died defending it at Kotah-Sarai near
Gwalior in 1858. According to the
historian Christopher Hibbert, “she
died dressed as a man, holding her
sword two-handed and the reins of
Rani Lakshmibai astride her horse in her teeth”. She remains
her horse one of India’s best-loved heroines. Stained-glass windows of All Souls’
Memorial Church, Kanpur




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200  CENTR AL INDIA

d Lucknow

As the Mughal Empire disintegrated, many independent
kingdoms, such as Avadh, were established. Its capital,
Lucknow, rose to prominence when Asaf-ud-Daula, the
fourth nawab, shifted his court here from Faizabad (see p203)
in 1775. The city was also a great cultural centre, and its
nawabs, best remembered for their refined and extravagant
lifestyles, were patrons of the arts. Under them music and
dance flourished, and many buildings were erected. In 1856
the British annexed Lucknow and deposed its tenth and
last nawab, Wajid Ali Shah. This incident helped instigate Sikandar Bagh’s stately gateway, adorned
the Indian Mutiny of 1857, when the city witnessed one of the with the fish emblem
bloodiest episodes in colonial history.
To the west, the Shah Najaf
Imambara has the tomb of Ghazi­
the nawabs’ royal emblem, ud­din Haidar (the sixth nawab).
adorn many of the structures.
Nearby, lie two grand tombs, T Chattar Manzil
the Tomb of Saadat Ali Khan NW of Qaiser Bagh. Open daily.
(the fifth nawab) and the Tomb Built during Saadat Ali Khan II’s
of Khurshid Zadi, his wife. reign (1798–1814), the Chattar
Under Nawab Wajid Ali Shah, Manzil (“Umbrella Palace”), derives
Lucknow witnessed an artistic its name from the umbrella­
flowering. An aesthete, who was shaped gilt dome (chattar)
not interested in governance, he crowning the structure. A base­
devoted himself to poetry and ment (tehkhana) was built below
music and is believed to have the level of the Gomti river,
introduced the thumri (a form of so that its waters could keep
light classical music). Dance forms the area cool in the summer. The
benefited as well, and the Lucknow building now houses the state’s
gharana (school) of Kathak (see department of Archaeology.
The Tomb of Khurshid Zadi, p32) reached new heights during
Qaiser Bagh his short reign, before he was T The Residency
deposed by the British in 1856 NW of Qaiser Bagh. Tel (0522) 232
T Qaiser Bagh Palace and exiled to Calcutta (Kolkata). 8220. Open Sunrise–sunset daily. &
Qaiser Bagh. Open daily. ∑ asi.nic.in Picture
Once the most magnificent Y Sikandar Bagh Lucknow’s most haunting Gallery Hussainabad
palace in Lucknow, Qaiser Bagh, Sikandar Bagh. Open daily. monuments are the desolate Clocktower
was built by Wajid Ali Shah Named after Wajid Ali Shah’s ruins of the Residency. This Imambara HUSSAINABAD
Chhota
(r.1847–56), the last nawab. When favourite queen, Sikandar Bagh complex of buildings, which grew Rumi Darwaza Aurangzeb’s
Mosque
the British recaptured Lucknow was the royal pleasure garden of around the large brick home of Jama NAPIER ST Bara MORADABAD
HUSAINABAD TRUST RD
Masjid
in 1858, they demolished many the nawabs. In 1857, British troops the Resident, was an exclusive Imambara Asafi Daligunj
Pul
of the complex’s more fanciful led by Sir Colin Campbell relieved British enclave, protected by Mosque M A H A T M A G A NDH I M A R G
structures, with their florid sculp­ the siege of the Residency at fortifications. In 1857, all the city’s Daulat SH A H M IN A R D
Khana
tures of mermaids and cherubs. this site. The National Botanical British citizens took refuge here M A N K AM ES H W A R M A N D I R RD
However, the remain ing buildings, Gardens and Research Centre during the five­month siege. Sir CHOWK RIA ST N A I B U LL A H ROAD Gomti River
although in ruins, hint at are now located in its grounds. Henry Lawrence, the commander VICTO UNUVERSITY R D Shah Najaf
their former splendour. The The R Imambara
Lal Baradari now houses a Chattar Hanuman Sikander
Setu
Bagh
Manzil
fine arts academy as well as J A G ATNARAYA Residency A N I L A K S H M I B A I M A R G R ANA
Kaisarbagh
the archaeological section of the T U L S I D A S M A R G NA D AN MAH A L R OAD Bus Stand M OTI M A H A L R D
A S H O K A M A R G
State Museum; the Bhatkhande S U B H A S H R O A D Lucknow City N ROA D S A P R U
Railway Station
Music Deemed University is a G WIN R D Qaiser Bagh SH A H NA J AF RO AD P RATAP M ARG
M A R G
HAZRATGANJ
school for Hindustani music; and Palace
the Safaid Baradari, now an GA NGAPRASAD MARG DR B N VARMA RD QAISER
office building, was where the BAGH
nawab, dressed as a fakir, used RANIGANJ DR R K TONDON ROAD Zoo
State
to hold court. Only two wings A H M A D H U S S A I N M A R G Museum
BISHESHWAR NATH ROAD
of the residential quarters that Chaudhary BUD DH A ROAD VIDHAN SABHA MAR G La
Charan Singh
once housed the nawab’s vast Airport Martinière
12 km
harem remain. Carvings of fish, The British Residency before it was destroyed during the siege of 1857 (8 miles)
For hotels and restaurants in this region see p696 and pp708–709
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UT T AR PR ADESH & UT T AR AKHAND  201


of the troops, expected relief to the imambaras, or ceremonial VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
arrive within 15 days. But, it was halls used during Muharram
87 days before a force led by Sir (see p673). The Bara (“Great”) Practical Information
Henry Havelock broke through Imambara, built by Asaf-ud- Lucknow district. 516 km (321
the ranks of sepoys, only to find Daula in 1784, was essentially a miles) E of Delhi. * 4,589,838.
themselves trapped inside. For famine relief project providing n Regional Tourist Office,
the next seven weeks they faced much-needed employment. It Paryatan Bhawan, Gomti Nagar
constant bombardment, until is said that while one group of (0522) 230 4870. _ Muharram
Sir Colin Campbell finally retook workers were involved with its (Mar/Apr). ∑ up-tourism.com
the Residency on 17 November. construction during the day, Transport
By then, almost 2,000 people had another group dismantled it ~ Amausi, 15 km (9 miles) SW
died either from bullet wounds at night. Elaborate gates lead of Lucknow £ @ Alambagh,
or from cholera and typhoid. to this sprawling, low edifice. (0522) 245 5477.
Today, the Residency looks just Its most remarkable feature is
as it did in 1857. In its small a large hall, 50-m (164-ft) long
museum, the gaping holes made and 15-m (49-ft) high, totally Asaf-ud-Daula also erected
by cannon fire are still visible. unsupported by pillars. the 18-m (59-ft) high Rumi
The Model Room, on the ground Above it is the bhulbhulaiya, a Darwaza, just outside.
floor, has a model depicting labyrinth of balconies. The Asafi This portal, embel lished
British defences during the siege. Mosque (also known as Shahi with lavish decorations,
Lying below are the cellars Masjid) and a stepwell also lie was the Imambara’s west-
where the women and children in the compound. facing entrance.
took shelter. The cemetery near
the ruined church has the forlorn
graves of those who died,
including that of Sir Henry
Lawrence. An Indian Martyrs’
Memorial stands opposite, on
the banks of the Gomti river.
T Bara Imambara
Hussainabad. Open Sunrise–sunset
daily. Closed during Muharram
(Mar/Apr). &
Lucknow’s most distinctive
architectural structures are The Bara Imambara complex, built in the late 18th century

Picture Lucknow City Centre
Gallery
Hussainabad 0 metres 500 1 Qaiser Bagh Palace
Clocktower
Chhota HUSSAINABAD 0 yards 500 2 Sikandar Bagh
Imambara 3 Chattar Manzil
Aurangzeb’s
Rumi Darwaza Mosque 4 The Residency
HUSAINABAD TRUST RD
Jama NAPIER ST MORADABAD
Masjid Bara 5 Bara Imambara
Imambara Daligunj
Asafi Pul
Mosque
Daulat SH A H M IN A R D
Khana M A N K AM ES H W A R M A N D I R RD
CHOWK RIA ST N A I B U LL A H ROAD Gomti River
M A H A T M A G A NDH I M A R G
VICTO The UNUVERSITY R D Shah Najaf
R
Chattar Hanuman Imambara Sikander
Setu
Manzil
Bagh
T U L S I D A S M A R G NA D AN MAH A L R OAD Railway Station Residency A N I L A K S H M I B A I M A R G M OTI M A H A L R D SH A H NA J AF RO AD P RATAP M ARG
R ANA
Kaisarbagh
Bus Stand
A S H O K A M A R G
J A G ATNARAYA
Lucknow City N ROA D
S A P R U
M A R G
Qaiser Bagh
Palace HAZRATGANJ
G WIN R D
DR B N VARMA RD QAISER
GA NGAPRASAD MARG
BAGH
S U B H A S H R O A D
RANIGANJ DR R K TONDON ROAD State Zoo
BISHESHWAR NATH ROAD
Chaudhary BUD DH A ROAD VIDHAN SABHA MAR G Museum
Charan Singh La
A H M A D H U S S A I N M A R G
Airport Martinière
12 km
(8 miles)
For keys to symbols see back flap
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202  CENTR AL INDIA

Lucknow: The Outer Sites

Some of Lucknow’s best architectural sites lie beyond the city
centre. The religious monuments, such as the imambaras and
mosques, reveal a distinct Persian influence, while the secular
buildings, which include the palaces of the nawabs as well as
colonial structures, are more European in style. A particularly
extravagant example among the latter is La Martinière. The
home and mausoleum of a French adventurer, it later became
a school, serving as the model for St Xavier’s School, which
was immortalized in Rudyard Kipling’s novel Kim.

Close to the Rumi Darwaza European buildings. The most
(see p201), Aurangzeb’s Mosque prominent of these is the
stands on high ground known Asafi Kothi, its elegant façade
as Lakshman Tila, the location marked by semicircular bays.
of Lucknow’s original township. Lucknow’s main market is
To the east is the Hussainabad situated in the Chowk, the
Clock tower, erected in 1887. The city’s atmospheric old quarter. Portrait of Nawab Wajid Ali Shah in the
67-m (220-ft) high Gothic tower Stretching from Gol Darwaza Picture Gallery
was built to mark the arrival of to Akbari Darwaza, this maze of
Sir George Cooper, Avadh’s first narrow galis (lanes) is lined with built by Major General Claude
lieutenant governor. To its west shops selling a range of goods Martin, a French soldier of
lies the 19th-century Baradari, from colourful kites to paan fortune and, in 1793, the
which was built by to Lucknow’s famed richest European in Lucknow.
Muhammed Ali Shah (the chikankari – fine muslin A fanciful Gothic château, it has
eighth nawab), and is delicately embroidered four enormous octagonal towers.
where the Picture Gallery with thread work. Wholesale The exterior is decorated with
is located. Splendid life- flower markets overflow animals and mythological figures,
sized portraits of the ten with roses and jasmine, and including lions, gargoyles and a
nawabs, painted between attar shops sell tiny bottles female sphinx. One of the two
1882 and 1885, are on of fragrant perfume. The cannons on the terrace was cast
display here. Chowk is also the best by Martin, as was the bronze bell.
To the west of the place to sample some He died in 1800 and is buried
Picture Gallery is the authentic local cuisine in the basement. In 1845, the
Hussainabad Imambara, Alam, Chhota (especially the many building, in accordance with
better known as the Imambara varieties of succulent Martin’s will, became a school for
Chhota Imambara. This kebabs), refined to an boys. The school was evacuated
gem-like structure is surmounted art form by chefs attached to during the siege of Lucknow, but
by a delicate gold dome, and its nawabi households (see p169). reopened a year later.
outside walls are engraved with At the southeastern corner
superb calligraphy. The interiors of the city, situated in the E Picture Gallery
are adorned with gilt-edged Zoological Gardens, is Lucknow’s Open Mon–Sat.
mirrors, ornate chandeliers, silver State Museum. Its collection E State Museum
pulpits and colourful stucco includes rare silver and gold Tel (0522) 223 9588. Open Tue–Sun. &
decorations. The tazias (replica coins, 16th-century paintings,
tombs) and alams (standards), and stone sculpture from the P La Martinière College
used during the Muharram 2nd century BC. Prior permission required from the
festival between March and The extraordinary principal. Tel 094544 69226.
∑ lamartiniere
April, are kept here. The Jama La Martinière stands lucknow.org
Masjid, to the south west is further south. It was
another striking structure, built
by Muhammed Ali Shah in the
early 19th century. Its walls are
heavily ornamented, and its
arches are covered with fine
stucco work.
Northwest of theJama
Masjid, the Daulat Khana was
the palace of Asaf-ud-Daula.
Constructed in the late 1780s,
it includes numerous Indo- Elaborate façade of La Martinière College
For hotels and restaurants in this region see p696 and pp708–709


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UT T AR PR ADESH & UT T AR AKHAND  203

g Jaunpur
Jaunpur district. 250 km (155 miles) SE
of Lucknow. * 4,494,204. £ @
Though largely bypassed by
visitors, Jaunpur has a wealth
of medieval Islamic architecture.
Located along the Gomti river,
Jaunpur was established by
Feroze Shah Tughluq (see p95) in
the late 14th century and soon
grew into an important trading
Colourful Hanuman Garhi Temple in Ayodhya post. It was subsequently ruled
by the independent Muslim
f Ayodhya the mosque, leading to rioting rulers of the Sharqi dynasty,
all over the country. Security who held sway for much of
Faizabad district. 127 km (79 miles)
E of Lucknow. @ (05278) 232 067. personnel now guard the site. the 15th century, until Ibrahim
n Ayodhya Tourist Information A makeshift temple outside the Lodi conquered the city in
Centre, (05278) 232 435. _ Ram security ring still attracts pilgrims, 1479. It eventually fell to the
Navmi (Mar/Apr), Kartik Purnima (Oct/ particularly during the full moon Mughals in the early part
Nov), Ramayan Mela (Dec/Jan). night of Kartik Purnima. One of of the 16th century.
the more renowned temples, Jaunpur’s many rulers each
Located on the banks of the among the hundreds of shrines left a distinct architectural stamp
Sarayu river, Ayodhya is said to be on the river bank, is the Hanuman on the city. The Mughal emperor
the birthplace of Rama, the divine Garhi. Built within the walls of an Akbar built the great Shahi
hero of the Ramayana (see p31). old fort, it is dedicated to the Bridge, which still stands across
Dozens of temples in this small monkey god, Hanuman. the river. To its north is the Old
pilgrim town com memo rate his Shahi Fort from the Tughluq
birth. Whether this is a historical Environs era. It contains a mosque, built
fact or simply part of oral tradition, Ayodhya’s twin city, lying 6 km with yellow-and-blue enamelled
for devout Hindus Ayodhya (4 miles) to its west, Faizabad bricks, and an exact replica of
remains inextricably linked with has a sizeable Muslim population a traditional Turkish bath or
the legend of Rama. As a result, and was Avadh’s first capital hamam. The most striking
when the Mughal emperor Babur before it was shifted to Lucknow mosque, the Atala Masjid, just
built a mosque near the supposed in 1775. In the town’s centre is outside the fort, dates to the
spot of Rama’s birthplace in 1526, the Jama Masjid, built by the later Sharqi period. It is embellished
he left behind a bitterly contested Mughals, while the 18th-century with recessed arches and
site. Known as the Babri Masjid tomb of Bahu Begum, the wife ornamental fringes, and square
(“Mosque of Babur”), it was a of Shuja-ud-Daula (Avadh’s third courts surround the central
long-simmering source of tension nawab), is an austere structure structure. Though built on a
between Hindus and Muslims. In built in marble. Faizabad has a grander scale, the 15th-century
1992, a mob of Hindus tore down pretty rose garden. Jama Masjid borrows its basic
architectural inspiration from
the Atala Masjid.
The Mango: King of Fruits
The mango (aam) is considered the
king of tropical fruits and is the best-
loved fruit of the country. The Mughal
emperor Babur called it the “finest fruit
of Hindostan”. The popular paisley motif
is derived from the shape of the mango
fruit, and mango leaves, considered
auspicious, are used as buntings at festive
occasions. Of the hundreds of varieties
Langra mangoes, available grown all over the subcontinent, few are
in summer
as aromatic and juicy as the mangoes of
Jaunpur. The langra is arguably the best
among the varieties grown here. It is fleshy, juicy and sweet,
and possessed of a distinct tangy flavour. It sells at a premium
countrywide and is widely exported to the Middle East and
Europe. The dussehri from Lucknow, and the chausa from the
Rampur region, are also popular varieties. The raw chausa is
considered ideal for spicy chutneys and pickles, without
which no meal is complete. Grand façade of the Jama Masjid
in Jaunpur
Locals bathing in the Ganga at sunrise, Varanasi


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206  CENTR AL INDIA

h Varanasi

Also known as Kashi (“the City of Light”), or as Benares, Varanasi
is situated on the west bank of the Ganges and is India’s holiest
Hindu city, with a spiritual and religious legacy that goes back
nearly 3,000 years. This is the city of Shiva, the foremost among
the 12 places where the god burrowed and then burst into the
sky in a fiery pillar of light (jyotirlinga). Sanctified by Shiva’s all-
pervading presence and the sacred Ganges, the 90 or so ghats Locator Map
Assi Ghat to Shivala Ghat
along the river define the life and identity of Varanasi. Stretching
from the southern Assi Ghat to the northern Adi Keshava Ghat,
close to the Malviya Bridge, the ghats cover more than 6 km
(4 miles). Lined with temples and shrines they reverberate with
the endless cycle of Hindu religious practice – from daily rituals
to profound rites of passage.





Tulsi Ghat
One of Varanasi’s oldest sites,
this ghat (earlier known as Lolarka
Ghat), was renamed after the
poet-saint Tulsidas, who lived here
in the 16th century. His house and
temple still stand nearby.


Mural of goddess on the walls
at Ganga Mahal Ghat Bhadaini Ghat

Assi Ghat
A linga stands beneath
a pipal tree on Varanasi’s
southernmost ghat, which Rewa Ghat
marks the confluence of
the Asi and Ganges rivers.













0 metres 50
0 yards 50
Ganga Mahal Ghat

Janki Ghat
Brick-red steps distinguish Janki
Ghat, in keeping with the
Varanasi tradition of each ghat
having its own distinctive colour.
For hotels and restaurants in this region see p696 and pp708–709


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V AR ANASI  207


VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
Practical Information
Varanasi district. 286 km
(178 miles) SE of Lucknow.
* 3,676,841. n Varanasi
Junction Station, 098739
51490. ( daily. _ Shivratri
(Feb/Mar), Ramlila (Sep/ Oct),
Ganga Festival/ (Dev Deepavali)
(Oct/Nov).
Chet Singh Ghat Transport
The fort on this ghat marks the spot where Maharaja Chet Singh ~ 22 km (14 miles) NW of the
was defeated by the British in the mid-18th century.
city. £ @
Anandamayi Ghat
The ashram founded
by, the Bengali female
saint, Anandamayi
Ma, draws thousands
of devotees.








Mahanirvani Ghat

Niranjani Ghat



Prabhu Ghat
Panchkot Ghat
Jain Ghat

Shivala Ghat
Vaccharaj Ghat This ghat, dating to 1770, was built by
Balwant Singh, the maharaja of Varanasi.

Ramlila
The Ramlila is a cycle of plays which tells the story of the
Ramayana (see p31), in which Lord Rama is exiled from his
kingdom for 14 years. The Ramlila tradition was started in
Varanasi by Tulsidas, author of the
Ramcharitmanas (a popular
version of the epic). Street
performances take place in the
evenings at different venues, in
September/October, attracting
thousands of spectators. The
performance at the residence of
Boat Building the former maharaja at Ramnagar
Planks lie waiting to be jointed into boats, Fort is by far the most spectacular Young boys dressed as the
which are an essential mode of transpor- of the Ramlilas in Varanasi. main characters
tation along the busy river front.




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208  CENTR AL INDIA


Varanasi: Digpatiya Ghat to Mir Ghat
These centrally located ghats are the city’s most sacred,
and many of them were built under the patronage of India’s
erstwhile princely states, such as Darbhanga, Jaipur and
Indore. One of Varanasi’s two cremation ghats, Harishchandra
Ghat, lies just to the south. Behind the holy Dasashvamedha
Ghat meanders a winding lane known as Vishwanath Gali, lined
with a multitude of shops that sell all manner of religious Locator Map
Digpatiya Ghat to Mir Ghat
objects. It leads to the city’s principal shrine, the Vishwanath
Temple, said to be over 1,000 years old.
Chausatthi Ghat
Digpatiya Ghat Lessons in the scriptures take
place at this ghat, named after the
temple of the Chausath Yoginis or
64 female divinities.











Harishchandra Ghat

Rana Mahal Ghat
Munsi Ghat

Ahilyabai Ghat
Prayag Ghat

0 metres 50
0 yards 50














Darbhanga Ghat
The towers and turrets of old
havelis, built in the early 1900s
by two princes of Bihar, dominate Dasashvamedha Ghat
this ghat. Some of the massive This centrally located ghat, Varanasi’s holiest spot, is named after
pillars in these havelis are the ten simultaneous horse sacrifices (dasashvamedh) performed
reminiscent of the Greek style. by Brahma the Creator. Rows of priests sit under bamboo parasols,
ready to perform ritual prayers for the pilgrims that swarm here.
For hotels and restaurants in this region see p696 and pp708–709


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V AR ANASI  209




Vishwanath Temple
Dedicated to Shiva, this shrine
is topped by 750 kg (1,654 lbs)
of gold. The present structure
was built in 1777 by
Ahilyabai of Indore.



Vishwanath Gali
Lacquer jars, vermilion powder, bottled Ganges
water, bangles and brocade are all sold in the
lane that leads to the Vishwanath Temple, which
is the focal point of all worship in Varanasi.






Vishwanath Man Mandir Ghat
Temple Jai Singh II of Jaipur built
one of his four Jantar Mantars
(see pp362–3) above Raja Man
Singh’s palace in 1710. Its sundial
is visible from the ghat.
The Palace of the Dom Raja, the king of the
Doms. The Doms are a caste who have exclusive
rights over the cremation ghats. They sell wood
and collect the ashes. The Dom Raja’s wealth
derives from the cremation fees his family
have collected for centuries.

Tripura Bhairavi Ghat

Mir Ghat












Boat Rides
The highlight of a trip to Varanasi is a boat ride at
sunrise, when the temples along the riverfront are
bathed in soft light. The people of Varanasi trickle
out of the labyrinthine lanes and head for the
ghats at dawn. Here, they wash clothes, perform
yoga asanas, offer flowers and incense to the river, Dasashvamedha Ghat at sunrise
and take a ritual dip. The most fascinating ride is
from Dasashvamedha to Manikarnika Ghat (see p210). Dozens of rowing boats ply up
and down the river, and can be hired by the hour. Rates are negotiable, so do fix the
price before hiring one.





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210  CENTR AL INDIA

Varanasi: Nepali Ghat to Panchaganga Ghat

Along this stretch is the famed Manikarnika Ghat, one of the
city’s two cremation ghats. According to legend, Shiva’s mani
(crest jewel) and his consort Parvati’s karnika (earring) fell
into the nearby well while they were bathing, hence the
name. Dying in Varanasi is a cause of celebration for Hindus,
as it is believed to bestow instant salvation or moksha
(liber ation from the cycle of birth and death). It is said that
Shiva whispers into the ears of the dying, and the old
and infirm, sages and ordinary people, come Locator Map
Nepali Ghat to Panchaganga Ghat
here to breathe their last.
0 metres 50
0 yards 50







Jalasen Ghat













Nepali Ghat
A statue of the Nandi bull stands
outside a pagoda-style, woodwork
temple, built by the royal
family of Nepal.














Scindia Ghat
Manikarnika Ghat The elaborate structures on this ghat
Funeral pyres burn day and night at this cremation were so top heavy that they collapsed,
ghat, while bodies wrapped in shrouds lie on biers and were rebuilt by Daulat Rao Scindia
besides piles of wooden logs. In the middle of the of Gwalior in 1937. A temple stands
ghat is the well (kund) that Vishnu carved out with half submerged in the river, with its
his discus before the Ganges flowed here. sanctum knee deep in the water.
For hotels and restaurants in this region see p696 and pp708–709


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V AR ANASI  211

Rituals Performed in the Ganges
Although there are over 700 temples in Varanasi,
none is more sacred than the river itself. The Ganges is
worshipped as a living goddess, with the power to cleanse
all earthly sins. Daily baths in her waters are advised by
Hindu scriptures to prepare for the soul’s final journey to
liberation. Offerings of flowers and diyas floating down
the river are a common and very pretty sight. A Ritual Dip
Thousands come to Varanasi
everyday, to bathe and pay
obeisance to the Ganges.
Evening Aarti
The daily prayers (aarti)
at dawn and dusk,
serve as salutations to
the river. Oil lamps are Wayside Shrine
offered and bells rung A widow clad in
while sacred mantras, white assembles
are chanted. flowers, incense and
Ganges water in a
small brass container,
for paying homage
at a wayside shrine.
Ganga Mahal Ghat was Akharas
also built by the king
of Gwalior in the early The city’s akharas, or
wrestling arenas, are
19th century.
famous. Men live and
train at these centres
full time, as part of
Bhonsle Ghat their tutelage under
a guru.

Mehta Ghat Aurangzeb’s mosque,
built on the site of a
Sankatha Ghat Hindu temple that
was destroyed, is a
grand structure that
dominates the skyline.








Jatar Ghat









Panchaganga Ghat
This ghat marks the mythical meeting place of five Adi Keshava Ghat
sacred rivers, and has numerous images of the
Hanuman, the Monkey God, five river goddesses – Ganga, Yamuna, Saraswati,
at Ganga Mahal Ghat Dhutpapa and Kirana.




210-211_EW_India.indd 211 26/04/17 11:53 am

212  CENTR AL INDIA

Exploring Varanasi j Sarnath

Varanasi, one of the oldest cities in the world and a Varanasi district. 10 km (6 miles)
NE of Varanasi. @ _ Buddha
contemporary of Babylon and Nineveh, dates to the 7th Mahotsava (May).
century BC. This eternal city, where religion is an integral
part of daily life, has drawn saints, poets and pilgrims through To Buddhists, Sarnath is as
sacred as Varanasi is to Hindus.
the ages. Behind the riverside ghats are narrow, crowded lanes The Buddha came to the Deer
and bazaars, where people jostle with sacred cows, saffron- Park here in 528 BC, to preach
robed sadhus and devotees making offerings at roadside the Dharmachakra, or the Wheel
shrines. Varanasi is also renowned as a centre of Sanskrit of Law, his first major sermon
learning and Hindu philosophy, attracting scholars and after gaining enlightenment
students from all over India. The Benares Hindu University, (see p225). Sarnath was then
one of ancient India’s greatest
established in the early 1900s, perpetuates this tradition. centres of learning, visited by
Chinese travellers Fa-Hsien and
Hiuen Tsang, who wrote of its
flourishing monasteries.
The central monument of
the existing complex is the
5th-century AD Dhamekh
Stupa, which is built at the site
where the Buddha is believed
to have delivered his sermon to
five disciples. To its west, are
the remains of the Dharmarajika
Stupa, built by the Mauryan
emperor Ashoka (see p46) to
preserve the Buddha’s relics.
Dramatic ramparts of the Ramnagar Fort rising from the riverbank The complex also has several
smaller monasteries and
The narrow, winding Vishwanath Jahan. The Indian sculpture temples, as well as a Bodhi Tree,
Gali leads to the Vishwanath section is equally impressive, planted in 1931, and the statue
Temple, dedicated to Shiva, who housing around 2,000 pieces, of Anagarika Dharmapala, the
is known here as Vishwanath, from 300 BC to AD 1400. Among founder of the society that
“Lord of the Universe”. Painted them are a fine 10th-century maintained Sarnath and
floral carvings adorn its exterior sculpture of the marriage of Bodh Gaya (see pp226–7).
and interior walls, and it is nearly Shiva and Parvati and an 11th- The Archaeological Museum
always crowded. Adjacent to it century statue of Vishnu as exhibits a superb collection of
lies the ancient Gyan Vapi Well Varaha (see p683). The display Buddhist artifacts. The highlight
(“Well of Wisdom”), whose waters of Gandhara sculpture is is the Ashokan lion capital in
are said to bring enlightenment. also noteworthy. polished sandstone (see p4),
According to legend, this well The 17th-century Ram nagar India’s national emblem.
is believed to contain the linga Fort, lying across the river
from the original Vishwanath beyond Asi Ghat, has been home E Archaeological Museum
Temple, which was destroyed to the maharajas of Varanasi for Tel (0542) 259 5095. Open Sat–Thu. &
by the Mughal emperor 400 years. Although now in a
Aurangzeb in the 17th century. state of disrepair, the palace still
The Gyan Vapi Mosque is built retains its charm. Ornamented
on the ruins of the temple. swords, photographs of tiger
Further south lies the sprawling shoots and visits by the King
Benares Hindu University, and Queen of Belgium line
founded by the eminent Sanskrit the walls. The Durbar Hall now
scholar, Madan Mohan Malviya. houses the museum, where
Within the campus is the numerous objects, including
renowned Bharat Kala Bhavan palanquins and elephant
Museum, known for having one howdahs, are on display.
of the country’s best collections
of Indian paint ings. About E Bharat Kala Bhavan
12,000 in number, they cover the Tel (0542) 231 6337 or 236 9227.
period from the 11th century to Open 10am–5:30pm Mon–Sat. &
the 20th century. Most impressive P Ramnagar Fort
are the Mughal miniatures, notably and Museum The Dhamekh Stupa, Sarnath’s
a depiction of the Emperor Shah Tel (0542) 2339322. Open daily. & principal monument
For hotels and restaurants in this region see p696 and pp708–709


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UT T AR PR ADESH & UT T AR AKHAND  213


Brocades from Varanasi

Varanasi, India’s most ancient pilgrimage centre, is also famous for its textiles. The city
has been renowned for its gossamer-fine cotton weaves for over 2000 years, but its
weaving traditions acquired new splendour from the 16th century onwards, with the
patronage of the Mughal emperors. Varanasi’s weavers soon became adept at weaving
silk with gold and silver thread, to create sumptuous brocades for royal costumes and
court furnishings, embellished with the exquisite floral, animal and geometric motifs
favoured by the Mughals. They also produced brocades for Tibetan monasteries,
decorated with Buddhist motifs such as clouds, lotus flowers and flames. Today, a wide
range of brocade saris, scarves, and Tibetan-style fabrics are made and sold in the city.
Gyaser textiles
were traditionally
woven for trade
with Tibet. This
contemporary
textile has taken
a single element
(the flame) from
a ritual cloth
to create a
stunning pattern.
The pallav, the culminating end-piece of a sari
(see p34), is the most elaborately designed part
of the sari. Its rich and complex weave requires
very fine and deft craftsmanship.










The flower motif, the classic latifa buta,
A panel of more than 600 geometric motifs combines gold and silver threads in a style
has been specially created as a design known as Ganga-Yamuna, after the two
directory for Varanasi’s brocade weavers. rivers, whose waters are pale and dark.





The Panch
Ranga sari, or the
five-colour sari,
creates a leheriya
(wave) design
in alternating
colours of blue,
orange, purple,
pink and green,
with a patterned
edging in gold.
The sheer richness
of the design Contemporary brocades recreate fish-
and colours scale patterns in gold and silver threads,
are its most inspired by Gyaser textiles, as well as jali or
notable features. trellis designs used in Mughal architecture.





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214  CENTR AL INDIA

















The creeper-covered ramparts of Allahabad Fort, built by the Mughal emperor Akbar
k Allahabad prosperous provincial centre, the princess from Jaipur, distraught
broad, tree-lined avenues of the by the war between her husband
Allahabad district. 204 km (141 miles)
SE of Lucknow. * 5,954,391. £ @ Civil Lines area contrasting with the and her son, took an overdose
UPSRTC, (0532) 240 7257. n Tourist congested bustle of the old city. of opium. The chhatris on her
Bungalow, 35 MG Marg, Civil Lines, Allahabad Fort was built in 1583 tomb show Rajput influence.
(0532) 210 2784/8374. _ Kumbh Mela by Akbar, who had a 3rd-century Anand Bhavan, ancestral
(every 12 years), Magh Mela (every year). BC Ashokan pillar brought here home of India’s premier political
from Kausambi. The pillar, dynasty, the Nehru-Gandhi
Allahabad’s sacred location unfortunately, is in a part of family, now houses a museum
at the confluence (sangam) the fort that is not open to of Nehru memorabilia and
of three rivers – the Ganges, the public. On the fort’s chronicles the high points
the Yamuna and the mythical eastern side, is a temple of the Independence
Saraswati – has given it a cultural, complex with an Movement. Close by, in the
political and religious importance undying banyan tree, Civil Lines area, is
for nearly 3,000 years. Hiuen the Akshaivata. the fantastically
Tsang, the Buddhist monk and Legend has it that arched and turreted
scholar (see p223), visited the anyone who leapt Muir College (now
town, then known as Prayag, in from its branches part of Allahabad
AD 643, and wrote in great detail will achieve salvation University) built in
of its prosperity and fame. from the endless Gothic façade of the 1870, and regarded a
In the 16th century it was cycle of rebirths. All Saints’ Cathedral fine example of Indo-
captured by the Mughals, who After too many such Saracenic architecture.
renamed it Allahabad. Later, attempts, the tree was fenced Some glazed blue-and-white
the British maintained a large off, and a special permit is tiles still cling to the dome and a
military presence in the city and required from the local tourist single tower soars to a height of
established the law courts and office to view it. 60 m (197 ft). Across the road is
the university. Jawaharlal Nehru Khusro Bagh, a tranquil the Allahabad Museum, which
(see p61), India’s first prime Mughal garden on the western has an interesting collection of
minister, was born here in 1889, edge of town, is named after terracottas from Kausambi and
and the city later became a major Emperor Jahangir’s eldest son, some 10th-to 13th-century
centre of the Independence who led an unsuccessful rebellion sculpture from the Chandela
Movement. Today against his father and was later era. Across Civil Lines to the west
Allahabad is a quietly murdered during the battle over stands the All Saints’ Cathedral.
succession with his brother, Shah Constructed in 1877 and
Jahan, in 1622. His tomb lies designed by William Emerson,
next to those of his sister and architect of the Victoria Memorial
his mother. The latter, a Rajput in Kolkata (see pp278–9), it is lined
with Jaipur marble inside.

T Allahabad Fort
Closed to the public.
P Anand Bhavan
Tel (0532) 246 7071/7096.
Open 9:30am–5pm Tue–Sun. &
E Allahabad Museum
Tel (0532) 240 7409.
The tombs of Prince Khusrau and his sister, Khusro Bagh Open 10am–4pm Tue–Sun. &
For hotels and restaurants in this region see p696 and pp708–709


214-215_EW_India.indd 214 26/04/17 11:53 am

UT T AR PR ADESH & UT T AR AKHAND  215


Environs
Kausambi, is 63 km (39 miles)
and about an hour’s drive from
Allahabad on the eastern bank
of the Yamuna. Excavated
ruins of a stupa, a palace and
extensive ramparts lie within
a 2-km (1-mile) radius. While
local legend holds that the
city was built by the Pandavas,
heroes of the Mahabharata (see
p30), excavations reveal that a
Buddhist community flourished
here between 600 BC and
AD 600. The Buddha himself Chitrakoot’s Ramghat, with temples on the banks of the Mandakini river
came here to preach. The site
contains the remains of a l Chitrakoot z Kalinjar Fort
paved brick road, small houses, Chitrakoot district. 125 km (78 miles) Banda district. 205 km (127 miles) SW
each with a ceramic drain, and SW of Allahabad. £ Karwi, 8 km of Allahabad. £ Banda, 62 km (39
the stump of an Ashokan pillar (5 miles) NE of town centre, then miles) N of Kalinjar Fort, then bus. @
dating to the 3rd century BC taxi or bus. @ n UPSTDC Tourism n UP Government Assistant Tourist
(a second pillar was moved Bungalow, (05198) 224 219. ( daily. office, Chitrakoot (05198) 224 219/ 222
to the Allahabad Fort). Some 218. ( daily.
terracotta artifacts and seals This pilgrim town on the
from 200 BC which were found banks of the Mandakini river, One of India’s oldest forts, Kalinjar
here are now in the Allahabad though in neighbouring was called Kanagora by Ptolemy,
Museum. Surrounded by fields Madhya Pradesh, is easier the 2nd-century AD Greek
and villages, with the river in to access from Allahabad. geographer. Its strategic location
the background, Kausambi Chitrakoot, literally “the Hill on the route between North and
has an aura of great serenity. of Many Wonders” refers to the South India made it a coveted
forested Kamadgiri Hill, where target for many rulers. It has thus
according to the Ramayana, had a very turbulent history, and
Rama, Sita and Lakshman spent was successively occupied by
a portion of their 14-year exile. many medieval rulers, until it fell
Below the hill lies Hanuman to the Afghan ruler Sher Shah Suri
Dhara, a natural spring that (see p83) in 1545.
flows over a delightful image Seven gateways, named after
of the monkey god, Hanuman, seven planets, and lined with
placed in a recess. Dotted with sculptures and carvings lead to
numerous temples, and full the fort. These include a giant
of sadhus, the town has a Shiva with 18 arms and a dancing
unique charm. Boat rides from Ganesha. The Neelkanth Temple
the attractive Ramghat, the inside the fort, is dedicated to
town’s main ghat, provide an Shiva. Still in worship, the temple’s
The remains of mud-and-brick impressive view of the temples inner sanctum contains an
ramparts at Kausambi along the river bank. ancient linga.
The Kumbh Mela
Hindu legend has it that during a war over the urn
(kumbh) of immortal nectar (amrit) between the
gods and demons, Vishnu gave the urn to Garuda,
his winged mount. During his flight, four drops of
the nectar fell on four places, Nasik (see p478), Ujjain
(see p250), Haridwar (see p188) and Allahabad. A
Kumbh Mela is thus held at each spot in turn, every
three years, when certain planetary configurations,
transform the waters of the Ganges into nectar.
Pilgrims from all over India converge at the Kumbh
Mela to wash away their sins, making it the world’s
largest religious gathering. Specially built tent-cities Pilgrims at Allahabad’s Kumbh Mela
and stalls spring up to cater to the influx. At Allahabad’s
Kumbh Mela (Jan–Mar 2013) more than 30 million devotees took a bath on Mauni Amavasya (10 Feb), the
most sacred of the six main bathing days. The next Kumbh Mela will be held in Allahabad in 2025.





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216-217_EW_India.indd 216 26/04/17 11:44 am
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Date 5th December 2012
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CENTR AL INDIA  217

BIHAR & JHARKHAND

The name Bihar derives from the Sanskrit word vihara, or monastery –
an apt title for a state that was the birthplace of Buddhism. Major sites
associated with the life and teachings of the Buddha, such as Bodh
Gaya, Nalanda and Rajgir, lie in the dry plains of central Bihar and
are the main attractions for visitors to the state. Northern Bihar
is a fertile agricultural plain, watered by the River Ganges and its
tributaries, where the famous Patna rice is grown. In November 2000,
the southern part of Bihar became the new state of Jharkhand, which
is dominated by a scenic, thickly forested highland called the Chhota Nagpur
Plateau. The game sanctuaries of Palamau and Hazaribagh are located here. Jharkhand
is rich in mineral resources, and is also the home of several indigenous tribes, believed
to be among the earliest settlers of the Indian subcontinent.


Sights at a Glance
Towns & Cities Historic Sites
1 Patna 2 Sasaram 0 Bodh Gaya
5 Munger 4 Vaishali q Parasnath
t Ranchi 7 Nalanda National Parks
y Jamshedpur 8 Rajgir w Hazaribagh National Park
Hill Stations Temple Towns & Holy Places e Palamau Wildlife Sanctuary
r Netarhat 3 Sonepur
6 Deoghar 0 kilometres 100
9 Gaya 0 miles 50

Gangtok •
Nichlaul •
Darjeeling •
• Motihari
• Gorakhpur Gandak NEPAL
NH85 NH28 NH77 NH105 NH102
Muzaffarpur • NH106 NH57
Ghaghara
•
Azamgarh NH102 • Darbhanga
NH19 Purnia •
Maner
• Ganges Barauni NH81
• N H 31
Buxar • NH34
NH30 NH83 NH82 • NH80 Balurghat
•
NH110 Bhagalpur
• Pawalpuri
Aurangabad • NH2 NH31 BANGLADESH
NH98
Son
NH99 Dumka •
NH100
Daltonganj • Dhanbad
McCluskiegunj N H 3 3 •
•
NH75 NH23 N H32
Key
NH23 National highway
Chhotta Nagpur Plateau NH33 Major road
NH78
Major railway
International border
State border
• Rourkela NH6
NH75
Baripada
•
Statue of the Buddha at the Mahabodhi Temple, Bodh Gaya For keys to symbols see back flap
216-217_EW_India.indd 217 26/04/17 11:44 am

218  CENTR AL INDIA

1 Patna Among them is the Mauryan-
era (probably 3rd century BC)
The capital of Bihar is a modern city with ancient roots polished stone image of
going back to 600 BC. During the reign of the Maurya and the Didarganj Yakshi (female
Gupta empires (see pp46–7) Patna, then known as Pataliputra, attendant), considered a master-
was renowned as one of the great cities of Asia, but today piece of Indian sculpture. Other
highlights include Gandharan-
it is a congested urban sprawl, stretching along the banks style statues of Bodhisattvas;
of the Ganges. West Patna, laid out by the British, has gracious outstanding Buddha images in
mansions and administrative buildings, while the eastern end bronze and black stone, dating
comprises the old city, a warren of crowded lanes surrounding from the Pala period (8th–12th
medieval monuments and bustling bazaars. centuries); terracotta figurines;
ancient Buddhist scriptures;
and a collection of Tibetan
thangkas. The museum also
boasts a 15-m (49-ft) long
fossilized tree trunk, believed
to be 200 million years old.
P Khudabaksh Library
Tel (0612) 267 0209. Open Sat–Thu.
∑ kblibrary.bih.nic.in
Founded in 1900, this library has
a renowned collection of rare
Persian and Arabic manuscripts,
including a group of beautiful
illuminated medieval Korans,
and superb Mughal miniature
Patna, lying on the south bank of the Ganges paintings. Its rarest exhibits
are volumes salvaged from
P Golghar at the top into the dome’s pit, the sacking of the Moorish
Open daily. which had a capacity of 124,285 University in Cordoba, Spain,
Patna’s signature landmark, the tonnes. A remarkable echo can in the 11th century, though
Golghar (literally “round house”), be heard inside the structure. how they found their way to
is an extraordinary dome that During the monsoon, the dome’s India still remains a mystery.
resembles a giant beehive. Built summit offers impressive views
in 1786 by Captain John Garstin of the Ganges, which, in this  Harmandir Sahib
as a silo to store grain during the season, can swell to a width Open daily.
famines that occurred frequently of 8 km (5 miles). This historic Sikh gurdwara
in those days, the Golghar was marks the birthplace of the
never actually put to use. The E Patna Museum firebrand tenth guru, Gobind
structure is 125 m (410 ft) wide at Tel (0612) 223 5731. Open Tue–Sun. Singh (see p107), who was born
the base and gradually tapers up Some remarkable treasures here in 1666. Regarded as one
to a height of 29 m (95 ft). Two are displayed in of the four holiest Sikh shrines, R i v e r G a n g e s
external staircases spiral upwards the Patna the marble temple was built Mahendra Ghat
Ferry Terminal
along its sides, with platforms to Museum. in the 19th century by MANER
rest on along the way. The idea Maharaja Ranjit Gandhi
was to haul the grain Singh (see p108). Bus Stand Khudabaksh
up, and pour it ASHOK RAJPATH Library
down a hole Golghar Maidan RD Birla Old Opium Warehouse,
Gandhi
BUDDHA MARG MA HAT M A GANDHI M A IDA N Mandir KHANJANCHI ROAD Jalan Museum
Harmandir Sahib,
Patna ARYA KUMAR ROAD
Museum S P VERMA ROAD EXHIBITION ROAD (KR ANTI MARG) SAIDPUR ROAD
BAILEY ROAD FRASER ROAD RAMKRISHNA AVENUE
Iskcon
BIRCHAND PATEL MARG Ganj Talab Udhyaan Patna Junction
R A J E N D R A PAT H
DAK BUNGALOW ROAD
Temple
Buddha
Smriti
Adalat
GPO
Garden
Railway Station
Lok Nayak Railway Station OLD BYPASS RD Rajendra Nagar
The beehive-shaped Golghar, built as a granary in the 18th century Jayaprakash Airport Kumrahar
6 km (4 miles)
For hotels and restaurants in this region see p696 and p709
218-219_EW_India.indd 218 26/04/17 11:44 am
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BIHAR & JHARKHAND  219


VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
Practical Information
Patna district. 1,015 km (631 miles)
SE of Delhi. * 1,377,000.
n Department of Tourism,
Barrack No. 9D, Old Secretariat,
(0612) 221 7163. ( Mon–Sat.
_ Patliputra Mahotsava (Mar).
∑ bstdc.bih.nic.in
Transport
~ 6 km (4 miles) SW of the city
centre. £ @
The eclectic private collection at the Jalan Museum
P Old Opium Warehouse
On the floor above the main E Kumrahar Gulzarbagh. Open Mon–Fri.
sanctum is a museum with Open Tue–Sun. & Located in a walled compound
the guru’s relics. This site contains the ruins on the riverbank, the opium
of the ancient city of Pataliputra. warehouse of the East India
E Jalan Museum Excavations have unearthed Company is now the Government
Tel (0612) 264 1121. Open by appt. elaborately carved wooden Printing Press. Opium was
Also known as Qila (“Fort”) ramparts, polished sandstone packaged in its three long,
House, this museum has an pillars and the remains of a vast porticoed buildings and sent
eclectic collection, gathered by a Mauryan assembly hall that is by boat to Kolkata.
19th-century ancestor of the said to have stood here in the
Jalan family. It includes Chinese 2nd century BC. A museum Environs
paintings, Mughal jade and here displays some of these Maner, 30 km (19 miles) west
silverware, Napoleon’s bed finds, which date from an era of Patna, is a major centre of
and Marie-Antoinette’s Sèvres when Patna was described by Islamic learning. It has the fine
porcelain. Qila House itself is Megasthenes, the Greek envoy 16th-century mausoleum of
an interesting structure, built to the Mauryan court, as “a the Sufi saint Hazrat Makhdum
on the ruins of a 16th-century city of light, where even Yahya Maneri. It is also famous
fort constructed by the Afghan wooden walls shine bright for laddoos, a confection made
ruler, Sher Shah Sur (see p83). as glass”. of gram flour and molasses.

Patna City Centre
1 Golghar 0 metres 500
2 Patna Museum 0 yards 500
3 Khudabaksh Library

R i v e r G a n g e s
Mahendra Ghat
Ferry Terminal
MANER
Gandhi
Bus Stand Khudabaksh
ASHOK RAJPATH Library
Golghar Gandhi RD Old Opium Warehouse,
BUDDHA MARG MA HAT M A GANDHI M A IDA N Birla KHANJANCHI ROAD Harmandir Sahib,
Maidan
Mandir
Jalan Museum
Patna ARYA KUMAR ROAD
Museum S P VERMA ROAD EXHIBITION ROAD (KR ANTI MARG) SAIDPUR ROAD
BAILEY ROAD FRASER ROAD RAMKRISHNA AVENUE
BIRCHAND PATEL MARG Ganj Talab Udhyaan Patna Junction
Iskcon
R A J E N D R A PAT H
DAK BUNGALOW ROAD
Temple
Buddha
Smriti
Adalat
GPO
Garden
Railway Station
Lok Nayak Railway Station OLD BYPASS RD Rajendra Nagar
Jayaprakash Airport Kumrahar
6 km (4 miles)
For keys to symbols see back flap
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220  CENTR AL INDIA


















The magnificent 16th-century tomb of the Afghan ruler Sher Shah Sur at Sasaram
2 Sasaram 3 Sonepur of exotic birds. As a sideshow
to the buying and selling of
Rohtas district. 158 km (98 miles) Saran district. 25 km (16 miles) N of
SW of Patna. £ @ Patna. @ n Bihar Tourism, Patna, animals, grain and fodder are
(0612) 222 5411. _ Sonepur Mela several troupes of folk singers
The dusty town of Sasaram, a (Oct/Nov). and magicians, nautanki
three-hour drive west of Patna (vaudeville) groups, dance
on the historic Grand Trunk North of Patna, across the bands, wrestlers and gymnasts,
Road (see p183), is famous for 7.5-km (5-mile) long Mahatma all exhibiting their skills on the
the Mausoleum of Sher Shah Gandhi Bridge over the Ganges, sands. In between trading and
Sur, the great Afghan ruler (see is the little town of Sonepur, entertainment, everyone takes
p83). This mid-16th-century known for its annual a holy dip in the river during this
architectural masterpiece is, mela, reputedly the largest most auspicious period in the
to quote architectural historian livestock fair in Asia. Hindu calendar.
Percy Brown, a testament to, The month-long The state tourism
“the aesthetic capacity of the fair begins on the department sets
Indian architect at its greatest, full moon of Kartik up a tourist village
and his genius at its highest”. Purnima, which a week in advance
With a spectacular setting usually falls in of the fair, and
in the middle of an artificial October or cottages and
lake, the pyramidal sandstone November. The tents can be
structure rises in five tiers to a mela site is a sandy booked at their
height of 45 m (148 ft). The first bank at the A mobile zoo at Sonepur’s office in Patna.
two tiers comprise of a stepped confluence of the huge cattle fair Even if buying an
basement and a high terrace Ganges and Gandak elephant (prices
that seem to emerge from the rivers, and attracts millions begin at about US$200) is
water, with a pavilion at each of sadhus, pilgrims and local not on a visitor’s agenda,
corner. The octagonal tomb rural families, as well as livestock the Sonepur Mela, with its
is set on this plinth, and tapers traders from all over India. colourful combination of religion,
towards the dome in three On sale are elephants, camels, entertainment and commerce,
elegant layers of arches, horses and cows, and an array is an unforgettable experience.
crenellated parapets and small
pillared kiosks. The broad dome
is crowned by a large gilded
lotus finial. All these elements
combine to create a superbly
proportioned structure that
appears to float above the lake.
Curiously, the tomb is
orientated eight degrees off
its main axis – a mistake that
the architect, Aliwal Khan, has
skilfully disguised. The brilliant
yellow-and-blue tiles are still
seen in places. Nearby is
the tomb of Sher Shah’s
father, Hasan Sur, built by
the same architect. Elephants being bathed during the Sonepur Mela
For hotels and restaurants in this region see p696 and p709


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BIHAR & JHARKHAND  221

4 Vaishali
Vaishali district. 55 km (34 miles) N
of Patna. @ n Tourist Information
Centre, Vaishali (06225) 284 425.
Set in the lush green landscape
of north Bihar, dotted with
groves of banana and litchi
trees, Vaishali is an important
religious site. Mahavira, founder
of the Jain faith (see p400), is
said to have been born here
in 599 BC. It is also the place
where the Buddha preached The renowned Bihar School of Yoga, inside Munger Fort
his last sermon (see p225). In
the 6th century BC, Vaishali hungry Buddha a bowl of honey 5 Munger
was a flourishing city under the here – a scene often depicted in Munger district. 180 km (112 miles)
Lichhavi rulers, who established Buddhist sculpture and painting. E of Patna. £ n Tourist Information
one of the world’s first city Also near the pillar are the ruins Centre, Fort Area, Munger
republics here. A well-preserved of a 5th-century BC brick stupa. (06344) 222 392.
Mauryan Stone Pillar, dating It is believed to have been built
from the 3rd century BC, with by the Lichhavi rulers soon Picturesquely located on the
a life-size lion sitting atop it, after the Buddha’s death to banks of the Ganges, Munger
is located 4 km enshrine his ashes. Ongoing is home to the famous Bihar
(2 miles) west of the excavations have revealed the School of Yoga, established
Tourist Lodge. brick foundations of various by Swami Satyanand, and
Close to the pillar other stupas. In 1996, now run by his disciple Swami
is the Abishek Japanese Buddhists Niranjananand. The school
Pushkarni Tank, built a temple and lies within the 15th-century
also known as a huge white Munger Fort, and welcomes
the Monkey Tank, Vishwa Shanti visitors. The fort was successively
which is now a Stupa (“World occupied by the Mughals,
stagnant pond. Peace Stupa”), various regional rulers and the
According to re-establishing British. Near the north gate
legend, it was Vaishali on of the fort is an 18th-century
dug by monkeys, The lion atop the 3rd-century BC the Buddhist British cemetery with ornate
who offered the pillar, Vaishali pilgrimage circuit. pyramid-shaped tombs.
P Bihar School of Yoga
Madhubani Painting Tel (06344) 222 430. Open daily.
∑ biharyoga.net
The vibrant Madhubani folk paintings (see p85) of north Bihar have
now gained international acclaim and popularity. Painted on the
walls of village homes by women, Madhubani art features motifs and 6 Deoghar
themes inspired by Hindu mythology, nature and festivals, as well as
by everyday life. Especially intricate compositions are created for the Deoghar district. 180 km (112 miles)
kohbar, or bridal room, for the wedding night, usually featuring a SE of Patna. £ @ n Tourist
god and goddess surrounded by a Information Centre, (06432) 222 422.
host of small birds and animals, and _ Mela (Jul/Aug).
watched over by the sun, moon
and stars. In recent years, with Deoghar’s Baidyanath Dham
Madhubani women having is an important Shiva temple
participated in international in India. It is said to mark the
exhibitions in foreign countries, spot where the heart of Shiva’s
new motifs have crept into consort Parvati fell, as the grief-
their work, such as skyscrapers, stricken Shiva carried her corpse
aeroplanes and women in stiletto
heels. The vibrant colours used are across the earth (see p283).
made of vegetable and mineral An object of special worship
dyes, and the paintings are is the linga inside the temple,
drawn with thin bamboo sticks. one of Shiva’s 12 jyotirlingas
Madhubani paintings are now also (see p206), believed to have
being done on paper and fabric, miraculously materialized
and are widely available for sale A Madhubani painting, with its out of light. The month-long
in many Indian cities. strong lines and colours annual mela here attracts over
100,000 pilgrims every day.




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222  CENTR AL INDIA

7 Nalanda

Once the most prestigious centre of learning in Asia,
the Buddhist University of Nalanda, founded in the
5th century AD, had over 5,000 international students KEY
and teachers, and a library of nine million manuscripts. 1 Monastery 1A was probably
Built on a hallowed site, where the Buddha had often built by a king of Sumatra in the
stayed, Nalanda flourished until AD 1199, when it was 9th century.
looted and destroyed by the Turkish raider, Bakhtiyar 2 Temple 12, a 7th-century temple,
Khalji. The evocative ruins of its monasteries and faces the row of monasteries. The
remains of a torana stand in front
temples, now a UNESCO World Heritage Site, still of this temple.
convey a vivid impression of the serene and ordered 3 Temple 13 has a brick-making
life of contemplation and learning that prevailed here. furnace to its north.
4 Monastery 8 has an imposing
shrine in its courtyard. All the
monasteries stand on terraces.








. Temple 3
Nalanda’s main temple, and its largest
structure (31 m/102 ft high), dates to the
6th century. It has a shrine chamber at
the top and small stupas at its corners.




























. Votive Stupas
Located in the courtyard 0 metres 50
surrounding Temple 3, 0 yards 50
these have plaster images
of standing Bodhisattvas
and seated Buddhas.
For hotels and restaurants in this region see p696


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BIHAR & JHARKHAND  223

A View of the
Monasteries VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
Monks’ cells surround
a courtyard in each Practical Information
of the 11 monas­ Nalanda district. 90 km (56 miles)
teries. The ruins SE of Patna.
n Bihar Tourism, Nav Nalanda,
display highly
skilful brickwork. near bus station.
Open daily. &
Museum: Open Sat–Thu. &
Transport
@ from Patna.









Temple 14
Traces of painting
can be seen here
in a niche with a
pedestal, where
a large image of the
Buddha once stood.














. Dado Panels from Temple 2
This 7th­century temple’s basement,
Museum which is all that remains, has an elaborately
sculpted dado with over 200 panels carved
with deities, animals and floral motifs.


Hiuen Tsang in Nalanda
The great Chinese scholar­monk,
Hiuen Tsang, travelled across forbidding
deserts and mountains to come to
Nalanda in the early 7th century AD.
He spent 12 years both studying
and teaching here, and was dazzled
by Nalanda’s “soaring domes and
pinnacles, pearl­red pillars carved
and ornamented, and richly adorned
Brickwork balustrades”. On his return to China
Layers of much earlier he settled down at the Big Goose
construction, some of Pagoda in Xian, where he translated into
it dating back to the 3rd Chinese the Buddhist scriptures he had Chinese print of Hiuen Tsang
century BC, are visible in brought back with him from Nalanda.
the brickwork at Nalanda.




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224  CENTR AL INDIA


for departed souls, performed
here, would absolve all their
earthly sins. Dominating the
religious life of the city is
the Vishnupad Temple, which
is closed to non-Hindus, but
no such restrictions apply to
the picturesque ghats and
shrines along the river front.
Environs
The Barabar Caves, cut deep into
a granite hill, are 24 km (15 miles)
Hot sulphur springs at Rajgir, surrounded by temples and rest houses north of Gaya, along a bumpy
jeep road. They were the inspira-
8 Rajgir the capital of the Magadha Empire tion for the Marabar Caves in EM
(see p46), ruled by King Bimbisara, Forster’s famous novel, A Passage
Nalanda district. 110 km (68 miles) SE
of Patna. * 33,700. £ @ n Bihar who became a devotee of the to India. Dating to the 3rd century
Tourism, Kund Market, (06112) 25 273. Buddha. The remains of the great BC, these are the earliest examples
dry-stone cyclopean wall he built of rock-cut caves in India. Of the
Surrounded by five holy hills, the can still be seen on Rajgir’s hills. four caves, built for ascetics on
picturesque little town of Rajgir is the orders of the Mauryan
important for Buddhists as well as Environs emperor Ashoka, the two most
Jains. Both Buddha and Mahavira, Pawapuri, 38 km (24 miles) impressive are the Lomas Rishi
founder of Jainism, spent many east of Rajgir, is sacred to Jains Cave and Sudama Cave. They
months meditating and preaching as the place where the founder are remarkable for the lustrous
here. The hills around are dotted of their faith, Mahavira, died in polish on the stone, and for the
with Jain temples, the ruins of 500 BC. A lotus-filled tank, with way in which the caves have
monas teries and meditation caves. the marble Jalmandir Temple been shaped to imitate the
Dominating Rajgir is the large in the middle of it, marks the rounded wood and bamboo
Japanese-built marble and sand- site of his cremation. dwellings, which were common
stone Vishwa Shanti Stupa on at that time. Even the interior
Ratnagiri Hill, with its four gilded 9 Gaya walls have perpen di cular grooves
statues of the Buddha. The 38-m cut into the stone, in imitation of
(125-ft) high stupa was built in Gaya district. 100 km (62 miles) S of bamboo strips. The façade of the
1969 by the Nipponzan Myohoji Patna. * 383,200. £ @ n Bihar Lomas Rishi Cave has fine lattice
Buddhist sect. Visitors can go up State Tourist Office, Railway Station, work carving, and a charming
to the stupa by chairlift. From (0631) 232 155. row of elephants paying homage
here, a path leads to the adjoining to stupas. These caves were used
Griddhakuta Hill (“Vulture’s Peak”), Stretching along the banks of by the Ajivika sect of ascetics,
a site much venerated by the Phalgu river, Gaya along who were contemporaries of
Buddhists. Two rock-cut caves here with Varanasi and Allahabad, is the Jain and Buddhist orders.
were a favourite retreat of the regarded as one of the three It is unsafe to explore this
Buddha, and it was on this hill most sacred sites for performing wild and rugged area without
that he preached two of his most Hindu funeral rites. It is believed reliable guides, recommended
famous sermons. The incident that Vishnu himself sanctified by the Bihar Tourism office at
of the Buddha subduing a wild Gaya, decreeing that prayers Gaya’s railway station.
elephant, a scene often depicted
in Buddhist art, also took place
in Rajgir.
To the west of Griddhakuta
Hill is Vaibhara Hill, at the foot
of which are hot sulphur springs,
crowded with people seeking a
medicinal dip. On top of the hill
are the seven Saptaparni Caves
where the First Buddhist Council
met soon after the Buddha’s
death to record his teachings.
Below them on the hill is the
Pippala Watchtower, a curious
rock and stone structure, with
cells for guards. It dates to the
5th century BC, when Rajgir was Rituals being performed at the Phalgu Ghat in Gaya
For hotels and restaurants in this region see p696 and p709


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BIHAR & JHARKHAND  225


In the Buddha’s Footsteps

The Buddha was born in 566 BC as Siddhartha Gautama, prince of the kingdom of
Kapilavastu. Though born in Lumbini, in Nepal, all the places associated with his life and
his teachings are in Bihar and Uttar Pradesh. These are now part of a well-travelled circuit
for Buddhist pilgrims, who follow in the Buddha’s footsteps from Bodh Gaya, where he
attained enlightenment, to Sarnath, where he preached his first sermon; through other
places he visited regularly, and finally to Kushinagar, where he died in 486 BC.



Renouncing his princely life, Prince
Siddhartha (represented here by a
riderless horse) left his palace and his
family at the age of 30, to search for
answers to the meaning of human
existence and suffering.

Emaciated by fasts Enlightenment came
and penances while at Bodh Gaya, where,
he spent six years after meditating for 49
living with ascetics days under the Bodhi
and wandering Tree, he discovered that
as a beggar, Prince the cause of suffering is
Siddhartha found desire; and that desire
that such self- can be conquered by
mortification gave following the “Eightfold
him no answers. Path” of Righteousness.






The First Sermon,
delivered at Sarnath (see
p212), contained the
essence of his teachings.
Eschewing asceticism,
rituals, caste and class
distinctions, his Eightfold
Path prescribed Right The Buddha’s Death took place in 486 BC.
Thought, Understanding, He fell ill after eating wild mushrooms
Speech, Action, Livelihood, prepared by one of his followers, and died
Effort, Concentration in a grove of sal trees at Kushinagar, where
and Contemplation. a stupa marks the site of his cremation.



The Buddhist Trail
attracts Buddhists
from all over the world,
including countries
Lumbini
• NEPAL such as Japan and
•
Kapilavastu Thailand. Many stupas
• Kushinagar
UTTAR BIHAR and temples along
PRADESH • Vaishali
Sarnath • Patna • the pilgrimage circuit
Varanasi • • Nalanda owe their existence
Bodh Gaya • • Rajgir to these devotees. This
Buddha image was
Buddhist Pilgrim Sites built by the Japanese.
See also the features on Little Tibet (p127) and Buddhist Iconography (p145).
224-225_EW_India.indd 225 26/04/17 11:44 am

226  CENTR AL INDIA


centre for Buddhism. Temples
and monasteries built by various
countries, including China, Japan,
Sri Lanka, Vietnam, Thailand,
Taiwan, Korea, Bhutan and Nepal,
dot the town. The Thai Temple is
the most picturesque, while the
modern Japanese Temple is
remarkable for the 25-m (82-ft)
high Buddha statue that towers
in front of it. The Bhutanese and
Tibetan Monasteries are filled
with colourful murals and prayer
wheels, and both are always
thronged by red-robed monks.
The Thai Monastery in Bodh Gaya, built like a traditional wat (temple) In the courtyard around the
Mahabodhi Temple, monks
0 Bodh Gaya by the Mauryan king Ashoka meditate at the stupas, novi tiates
in the 3rd century BC, but a have their heads shaved, and
Gaya district. 115 km (71 miles) SE
of Patna. * 30,900. £ Gaya, 13 km major reconstruction during the pilgrims pray before the Bodhi
(8 miles) N of town centre, then taxi 7th century AD gave the temple Tree. For three weeks during the
or bus. @ n Bihar Tourism, 34 its present form. In the 12th winter, a tented city springs up
Mahabodhi Market Complex, (0631) century, it was severely around the temple, as thousands
240 0672. _ Monlam Chenmo damaged by Muslim of monks and pilgrims
Prayers (Jan/Feb), Buddha invaders, but faithfully congregate here for the
Jayanti (May). restored in the 14th Monlam Chenmo Prayers,
century by Burmese often presided over by
The holiest site for Buddhists kings, who also added the Dalai Lama and
from all over the world, Bodh the replicas of the main other venerated figures
Gaya is the place where the spire at each corner of from the Buddhist
Buddha attained enlight enment. the temple. Then, as world. Across
The focal point of the town Buddhism went the street, the
is the Mahabodhi Temple, into near eclipse Archaeological
whose soaring pyramidal in northern Museum has
spire dominates the landscape. India, the temple fragments of the
The temple is enclosed on site was flooded The 25-m (82-ft) Buddha statue, beautiful original
three sides by a 1st-century BC and silted over, erected by the Japanese 3rd-century BC
stone railing, carved with lotus and effectively temple railing,
medallions and scenes from the “lost” for centuries. Some and from the 8th to 12th centu-
Buddha’s life, and it includes the Burmese Buddhists rediscovered ries, bronze and stone images
sacred Bodhi Tree, under which it in the late 19th century. The which were excavated during
the Buddha meditated before temple ruins were then the restoration of the temple.
he attained enlightenment. excavated and restored.
The original temple at this Today, Bodh Gaya once again E Archaeological Museum
spot was a circular stupa, built flourishes as an international Open Sat–Thu. &
The Sacred Bodhi Tree
According to local lore, the original Bodhi Tree (Ficus religiosa) was
cut down by Emperor Ashoka’s wife because she was jealous of the
time he spent at his Buddhist devotions.
The emperor then revived the tree by
nurturing its roots with gallons of milk,
and built a protective stone railing
around it. The tree that stands today
is said to come from the same stock as
the original tree. Ashoka’s son Mahinda
took a sapling from the original tree to
Sri Lanka on one of his proselytizing
missions. The tree flourished there, and
its sapling was later brought back to be
planted at Bodh Gaya after the original Pilgrims gathered around the
Beautifully carved stupas in the tree had died. Bodhi Tree
temple courtyard
For hotels and restaurants in this region see p696 and p709


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BIHAR & JHARKHAND  227

Bodh Gaya: Mahabodhi Temple VISITORS’ CHECKLIST

The Mahabodhi Temple complex, a UNESCO World Practical Information
Heritage monument, marks the site where, more Mahabodhi Temple Complex.
than 2,500 years ago, Prince Siddhartha meditated n Temple Office, (0631) 240 0445.
Open daily. Extra charges for photo-
on the causes of human suffering, found the answers graphy. _ Buddha Jayanti (May).
he was seeking under the Bodhi Tree, and became the
Buddha – the Enlightened One. The best time to visit
the complex is at dusk, when thousands of oil lamps
bathe the temple in a golden light, and the sound of
Buddhist prayers fills the air.





The Spire, 52 m
(171 ft) high,
is carved
in tiers and The Buddha
capped by This gilded stone image (late 10th
an umbrella- century) in the main sanctum has
like finial. an aura of great serenity. The
pedestal is carved with alternating
lions and elephants.

The Torana
This gateway to
the temple is made
of granite and
covered with The
inscriptions from Bodhi
the Buddha’s Tree
teachings. It under
dates from the which the
8th century. Buddha spent
49 days.











The entrance
leads to the main
sanctum with the
Buddha image.




The Cankamana or Jewel Walk
Carved with lotuses, this sacred The Vajrashila
promenade was where the The red sandstone seat beneath
Buddha walked, meditating on the Bodhi Tree marks the spot
whether to spread his message to where the Buddha sat. It probably
the world. dates to the 3rd century BC.




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228  CENTR AL INDIA

q Parasnath
Giridih district. 179 km (111 miles)
NE of Ranchi. £ @ Madhuban.
An important destination
for Jain pilgrims, Parasnath is
named after Parsvanatha, the
23rd Jain tirthankara (see p400),
who is believed to have attained
nirvana here. Clustered on top
of Sikayi Hill, the highest peak in
Jharkhand at 1,400 m (4,593 ft),
are 24 Jain shrines and two
temples, each one dedicated
to one of the Jain tirthankaras. En route to Netarhat, through the picturesque Chhota Nagpur Plateau
The temple on the highest point
is dedicated to Parsvanatha. spotting a tiger from one of the the Palamau Tiger Reserve.
Pilgrims begin their climb from ten viewing platforms is now The sanctuary is dotted with
Madhuban, a stopover at the rare. The 190 sq-km (73 bamboo, sal (Shorea
foot of the hill, and it takes over sq-mile) park, established robusta) groves,
three hours, through forested in 1954, is bisected by towering mahua
slopes. Palanquins are available the Ranchi-Kolkata (Madhuca indica) trees
to carry those who do not want Highway, which, with its from whose pale yellow
to walk. The views from the heavy traffic, has driven flower the area’s tribal
top are magnificent. away many animals to people (Oraons and
other habitats. But there Mundas) make a potent
w Hazaribagh are plenty of wild boar, Leopard at liquor, and grassland.
nilgai and leopard, and
It is inhabited by wild
National Park its thick forests are a Palamau Sanctuary elephants, deer,
haven for birdlife. leopards, tigers and
Hazaribagh district. 135 km (84 miles)
N of Ranchi. £ Hazaribagh Rd Station, several bird species. There are
67 km (42 miles) S of Pokharia, the e Palamau Wildlife numerous watch towers and
main entry point, then bus. @ hides that have been strategically
n Tourist Office, near bus stand, Sanctuary placed around the water holes.
Hazaribagh town, located 16 km Palamau district. 170 km (106 miles) The picturesque ruins of two
(10 miles) S of Pokharia. For permission, W of Ranchi. £ Daltonganj, 24 km 16th-century forts, hot springs
contact Divisional Forest Officer, (15 miles) NW of Betla, the main entry and a few tribal villages also lie
Hazaribagh, (06546) 223 340. point. @ n Tourist Office, Betla, within the park.
(06562) 256 513. For permits contact
Set in the undulating Chhota the Deputy Director, Palamau Wildlife
Nagpur Plateau at an average Sanctuary, Daltonganj. Jeeps are r Netarhat
altitude of 615 m (2,018 ft), available at Betla.  Latehar district. 160 km (99 miles)
covered with tropical deciduous W of Ranchi. @
forests, this national park is 16 km Also known as Betla National
(10 miles) from Hazaribagh. Park, the Palamau Wildlife The only hill station in Bihar and
Hazaribagh means “Thousand Sanctuary, on the northwestern Jharkhand, Netarhat is situated at
Tigers”, and this quiet town’s edge of the Chhota Nagpur an altitude of 1,158 m (3,799 ft)
environs were once famous for Plateau, is set in hilly tribal and lies deep within the forested
their tiger population. However, country, with the Koel and Chhota Nagpur hills, just off the
as a result of deforestation, most Burha rivers flowing through it. Ranchi-Hazaribagh Highway.
of the tigers are gone, and The sanctuary is also home to There are several pleasant
rambles in the hills around this
little town, and fine views of the
surrounding countryside from
Magnolia Point. The scenic
Burha Ghagh, or Burha Falls,
makes an enchanting picnic
spot. A curious building here is a
huge wooden Swiss-style chalet,
formerly the country retreat of
the British governors of Bihar,
and now a boarding school for
boys. The school authorities
Watchtower in the Hazaribagh Wildlife Sanctuary usually welcome visitors.
For hotels and restaurants in this region see p696 and p709


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BIHAR & JHARKHAND  229


Environs
Hundru Falls, some 45 km Festivals of Bihar &
(28 miles) east of Ranchi, is Jharkhand
a picturesque picnic spot. Maner Urs (Feb), Maner.
This is the point where the This festival honours the
Subarnarekha river drops Sufi saint Sheikh Yahya
down dramatically from Maneri with soulful qawwali
the Chhota Nagpur singing at his mausoleum,
Plateau to form a 100-m and a lively fair in the town.
(328-ft) waterfall, which Sarhool (Mar/Apr), Jharkhand.
splashes into the pools The Munda tribals perform
below. The sleepy town tree-worshipping ceremonies,
of McCluskiegunj, 40 km followed by much dancing
(25 miles) northwest of and feasting.
Ranchi, is a quaint relic of Jatra (Mar/Apr), Jharkhand.
the Raj. It was established The Oraon tribals hold lively
as a settlement for dances during this festival,
Eurasians, who felt they in which the young people
belonged neither to choose their mates.
British nor to Indian Buddha Jayanti (May),
society, and wanted a Bodh Gaya. A fair and
Fields on the outskirts of Ranchi haven of their own. Today, special prayers are held to
only a handful of the original celebrate the Buddha’s birth,
t Ranchi settlers remain (many have attainment of enlightenment
emigrated to Australia), living and nirvana.
Ranchi district. 289 km (180 miles) E of
Patna. * 846,500. ~ 5 km (3 miles) out their old age in cottages
S of town centre. £ @ n Birsa crammed with their treasured
Vihar Tourist Complex, Main Rd, (0651) collections of English china
230 1230. ( daily. _ Rath Yatra ornaments, and adorned with
(Jun/Jul). pictures of the British royal family.
The capital of the state of
Jharkhand, Ranchi is a good y Jamshedpur
base from which to explore East Singbhum district. 130 km
the natural beauty of the (81 miles) SE of Ranchi. * 570,300.
Chhota Nagpur Plateau. The ~ £ n Tourist Information Centre,
summer capital of Bihar in Bistupur, (0657) 243 2892. @
the days of the British Raj, ( daily. _ Founder’s Day (Mar).
Ranchi still attracts visitors
keen to escape the heat and One of India’s major indus trial
dust of Bihar’s plains. The centres, Jamshedpur is a
town’s main attraction is the rare oasis of cleanliness and
17th-century Jagannath Temple, efficiency in this region. The Pilgrims with offerings for the Sun
perched on a hill in the planned township, God on Chhat
southwestern outskirts. surrounded by lakes,
Like the Jagannath rivers and the pretty Batsavitri (May/Jun). This
festival commemorates the
Temple at Puri Dal Hills, was legend of Savitri, who brought
(see pp316–17), this established in 1908 her husband Satyavan back
temple also holds an by the Parsi tycoon, from the dead through the
annual chariot festival. Sir Jamshedji Tata (see sheer intensity of her prayer.
The Chhota Nagpur p450). He is regarded as It is celebrated by married
Plateau is the home the father of industrial women, who fast and pray,
of the forest-dwelling development in India. tie strings around banyan
Munda and Oraon The Tata Iron and Steel trees and offer sweets and
tribes. The wide- Company (TISCO) was fruits to images of Savitri.
ranging exhibits and set up by him in this Sonepur Mela (Oct/Nov),
collections of artifacts Oraon tribal area because of the Sonepur (see p220).
in the Ranchi Museum girls dancing rich deposits of iron Chhat (Oct/Nov). Flower-
provide a comprehen- ore and coal found shaped pastries called thekua
sive picture of their lifestyles here. The Tata empire continues are made in every home during
and social structures. to flourish, and several of its this three-day thanksgiving
research, educational and festival, dedicated to the Sun
E Ranchi Museum cultural institutes here are God, celebrated all over Bihar.
Open Mon–Sat. Closed public hols. open to visitors.




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CENTR AL INDIA  231

MADHYA PRADESH &
CHHATTISGARH

Covering a vast area of 308,252 sq km (119,017 sq miles), Madhya
Pradesh and Chhattisgarh constitute the geographic heart of India.
Between them, they border on to seven states, have one-third of India’s
forest cover, and are home to 40 per cent of the country’s tribal pop ulation.
Madhya Pradesh is crossed by the Vindhya and the Satpura mountains, and its
main river is the Narmada. In the state’s rugged north are the famous Khajuraho
temples, while eastern Madhya Pradesh has two of India’s finest game sanctuaries,
Bandhavgarh and Kanha. The scenic Malwa Plateau in the southwest has the
great Buddhist stupa of Sanchi and the romantic 15th- to 16th-century citadel of
Mandu. In November 2000, the thickly forested and remote southeast, with its
predominantly tribal population, became the new state of Chhattisgarh.

Sights at a Glance
Towns & Cities Hill Stations
1 Gwalior 0 Bhojpur i Pachmarhi
4 Shivpuri q Sanchi
5 Chanderi t Mandu Temple Towns & Holy Places
9 Bhopal National Parks r Ujjain
w Gyaraspur 8 Bandhavgarh National Park y Maheshwar
e Indore a Kanha National Park u Omkareshwar
o Jabalpur
p Mandla Tours
Agra
Historic Sites • 2 A Tour of Bundelkhand
3 Orchha
6 Khajuraho NH92
7 Ajaigarh Chambal
NH25 Ya m una Ganges
NH25
Kota Allahabad • • Varanasi
•
NH3 NH86 NH75
NH12
Son
Rajgarh • NH75
NH79
Sagar Katni • Daltonganj •
• NH12A
Shahdol NH78
NH12 • • Ambikapur
NH26
Vindhya Range Amarkantak NH111
NH59
Narm ada NH7 •
Betul • Bilaspur
• NH200
Satpura Range NH69 Mahanadi
Sambalpur
NH6 • • NH6 Raipur • NH6 •
• Nagpur
Dhule Bhandara
•
Akola
Phulabani •
Bhawanipatna
• NH217
NH43
Key Indravati Jagdalpur
• •
National highway NH16
NH221
Major road NH5
Major railway Godavari
0 kilometres 150
State border •
0 miles 150 Visakhapatnam
Tigers in Bandhavgarh National Park For keys to symbols see back flap
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232  CENTR AL INDIA

Gwalior Fort: Man Mandir Palace

The massive Gwalior fort stretches for nearly 3 km
(2 miles) atop a 100-m (328-ft) high sandstone and
basalt hill. Its formidable bastioned walls, 10-m (33-ft) high,
enclose exquisite temples and palaces, the most spectacular
of which is the Man Mandir Palace. Built between 1486 and
1516 by Raja Man Singh of the Tomar dynasty, this double-
storeyed palace is regarded as one of the finest examples of
Rajput secular architecture, embellished with superb stone
carving and latticework. Brilliant blue, yellow and green tiles
depicting parrots and peacocks, rows of ducks, elephants,
The Durbar Hall of Jai Vilas Palace with its
two gigantic chandeliers banana trees and crocodiles holding lotus buds, decorate
the Man Mandir’s façade.
1 Gwalior
Gwalior district. 321 km (200 miles)
S of Delhi. * 827,000. ~ 14 km Courtyard
(8 miles) N of city centre. £ @ The interior court yard
n TO Hotel Tansen Residency, with its carved pillars
6 Gandhi Rd, MP (0751) 401 0666. has rooms around it.
_ Tansen Music Festival (Oct/Nov). Two subterranean
floors, with fountains
Apart from Gwalior Fort, the and baths, were later
main attraction for visitors to used as dungeons.
Gwalior is the opulent, Italianate
Jai Vilas Palace, south of the
fort, built for the maharaja of
Gwalior by his architect, Colonel
Sir Michael Filose, in the late
19th century. Still the residence
of the former Scindia rulers,
part of the palace has been
turned into a museum. The most
magnificent room is the Durbar
Hall. Hanging from its ceiling
are two of the world’s largest
chandeliers, 13-m (43-ft) high
and weighing 3 tonnes
each. Before they were
hung, the strength of
the roof was tested
by having several
elephants stand on
it. Also on view is
a mechanical silver
toy train that carried
liqueurs around the
maharaja’s dining table.
North of the fort is Gwalior’s old
town, which has two interesting
Islamic monuments – the 16th-
century Tomb of Mohammed
Ghaus, a Mughal nobleman,
which has outstanding stone
latticework screens; and the The
Tomb of Tansen, the famous Bastions
singer, who was one of the Rounded bastions,
“nine jewels” of the Mughal topped with cupolas
emperor Akbar’s court (see p184). and decorated with Hathia
coloured tilework, Paur is the
E Jai Vilas Palace Museum break the severity of magnificent
Closed Wed. Tel (0751) 232 2390. & the fort’s high walls. main gateway.
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp696–7 and p710


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Exploring Gwalior Fort VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
Described by a 16th-century
Persian chronicler as “the pearl in Practical Information
the necklace of castles of Hind”, N of city centre.
Gwalior Fort has had a turbulent Open daily. & Son et Lumière:
history. Founded in the 8th Mar–Oct: 8:30pm daily; Nov–
century AD, it was successively Feb: 7:30pm daily. &
ruled by a series of local Hindu Archaeological Museum:
dynasties, followed by the Delhi Open 10am–5pm Sun–Thu.
Sultans, the Mughals and, finally, Closed Fri & public hols. &
the Maratha Scindias (see p475),
who became the maharajas of
Gwalior in the 18th century. Man Mandir Palace, its ornate
It was also briefly in pillars supporting a
The lavishly carved and decorated south British hands in the 19th dome with a richly
façade of Man Mandir century. The fort is best corbelled arch. At the
entered from the Urwahi northeastern edge
Gate on its western side, of the fort is the 15th-
where 21 colossal Jain century Gujari Mahal,
Sculptures depicting the built Raja Man Singh
tirthankaras (see p400) for his Gujar (tribal) queen.
and dating from the 7th Now the Archaeological
to the 15th centuries, are Museum, its fine
carved into the rock face. collection of Jain and
Lying to their left is the Rock-cut Jain Hindu sculpture includes
richly carved, 25-m (82-ft) sculpture the cele brated statue
high temple, Teli ka of the salabhanjika
Stone Latticework Mandir, the tallest temple in (wood nymph), originally from
The oriel window, in the zenana the fort. Built in the 9th century the temple at Gyaraspur
quarters of the palace, is framed and dedicated to Vishnu, it has (see p247).
against intricately latticed stone an unusual shikhara, rounded at
battlements. A pair of caparisoned the top. After the Indian Mutiny Gwalior Fort
elephants flank the window. of 1857 (see p57) British soldiers 1 Urwahi Gate
occupied the temple and used it 2 Jain Sculptures
as a soda factory. Situated to its 3 Teli ka Mandir
north are a pair of 11th-century
Vishnu temples, called the Saas- 4 Saas-Bahu Temples
Bahu (“Mother and Daughter-in- 5 Hathia Paur Gate
Law”) Temples. They are covered 6 Man Mandir
with superb sculptures of dancing Palace
girls and deities, though their 7 Gujari Mahal
shikharas were destroyed in an
attack by Sultan Qutbuddin Aibak
(see p52) in the 12th century.
North of them is the Hathia
Paur, entrance gateway to the















0 metres 700
The 9th-century Teli ka Mandir, the tallest
temple in the fort 0 yards 700
Women walk past the striking façade of the Khajuraho temple, Madhya Pradesh



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236  CENTR AL INDIA


2 A Tour of Bundelkhand

Gwalior and the adjoining region of Bundelkhand, named
after the Bundela Rajputs, make up a culturally distinctive
area in Central India. Countless forts and monuments, situated
in a boulder-strewn landscape of great beauty, still echo
with stories of the pageantry of the Bundela Rajput courts,
and the valour of warriors such as the Rani of Jhansi (see p199).
The area’s glorious history and refined artistic traditions
are reflected in the architectural treasures of Gwalior, the
medieval city of Orchha, and the hilltop temples of Sonagiri. 1 Gwalior
The capital of many
dynasties since the 8th
century AD, Gwalior (see
2 Pawaya Agra p232) is the most splendid
The remains of an of the “gateways” to the
ancient fort can be Bundelkhand region.
seen in this capital
of the Nag kings
(3rd century AD) from
the highway at Dabra. 3 Sonagiri
This impeccably maintained
complex of 77 Jain temples
is approached through a
thriving pilgrim settlement.
Dabra Sind
5 Jhansi
The town is known
for its impressive fort
and the heroic Rani
4 Datia Lakshmibai, who
This erstwhile died leading her
Bundela capital troops against the
is surrounded British in 1858.
by numerous
small lakes, and BUNDELKHAND
has scenically
located palaces Betwa
on hillocks.
Key
Tour route Khajuraho
Other roads
River


6 Orchha
The temples,
cenotaphs and tiered
Tips for Drivers 0 kilometres 20 palaces of Orchha are
0 miles 10 perfect examples of
Length: 120 km (75 miles). Bundelkhand architecture.
Stopping-off points: Gwalior,
Sonagiri, Datia, Jhansi, Orchha
and Taragram provide convenient 7 Taragram
stop overs. There is a petrol pump A fascinating
at Dabra, after Gwalior. State handmade paper
tourism hotels and guesthouses factory here is
are available at Gwalior, Datia an interesting
(Tourist Motel, (07522) 238 125), experimental
Jhansi and Orchha. Local buses centre aimed at
run between the major stops. upgrading local
craftsmanship.





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M ADH Y A PR ADESH & CHHA T TISGARH  237


several imposing Jain statues.
Most of the structures inside
the fort are attributed to Sultan
Mahmud of Malwa, and are
executed in the graceful provincial
Afghan style that distinguishes
the buildings of Mandu (see
pp251–3). The most ambitious
edifice here is the Koshak Mahal,
built in 1445. The sultan originally
planned it as a seven-storeyed
palace, but only managed to
complete two storeys, each with
balconies, rows of windows and
beautifully vaulted ceilings.
Other notable buildings are
The marble cenotaph of Madhavrao Scindia at Shivpuri the domed-and-arcaded Jama
Masjid and the Badal Mahal,
3 Orchha 5 Chanderi with its elegant gateway.
Chanderi was once a
See pp238–9. Guna district. 227 km (141 miles)
S of Gwalior. * 28,300. @ n MP flourishing centre of trade,
Tourism, Tanabana, (07547) 25 2222. and an exploration of the town
reveals large sandstone havelis,
4 Shivpuri The medieval town of Chanderi shops raised on plinths and
is dominated by the Kirtidurga ruined caravanserais lining
Shivpuri district. 117 km (73 miles)
SW of Gwalior. * 146,900. £ @ Fort, perched 200 m (656 ft) the winding lanes. The town
n Tourist Village, Shivpuri, (07492) above the Betwa river, and is also famous for its gossamer
223 760/221 297. overlooking an artificial lake, muslin saris and brocades.
Kirtisagar. Built by the Pratihara
The summer capital of the Scindia kings in the 10th century, Environs
rulers of Gwalior, Shivpuri was Chanderi successively fell Deogarh Fort, the “Fortress
once a thickly forested region, to the sultans of Delhi of the Gods”, is 25 km
and a favourite hunting ground and Malwa, the Mughal (16 miles) southeast of
of the Mughals. Most of the emperor Babur and, Chanderi. Within it are
elephants in Emperor Akbar’s finally, to the Marathas, a splendid display of
army were taken from these becoming part of the sculptures from a group
forests. Today, the main attractions Scindia kingdom of of 9th- to 10th-century
are the 19th-century white marble Gwalior. The entrance Jain temples. Just
cenotaphs of Madhavrao Scindia is through the Khuni below the fort is the
and his mother, which stand Darwaza (“Bloody 5th-century Vishnu
facing each other in a formal Gateway”), marking Dasavatara Temple with
Mughal-style garden. With their the point at which the its fine sculpture and
mix of shikharas (spires), domes Mughal emperor Babur Minaret detail, carved pillars topped by
and cupolas, they epitomize broke through the 6-km Kirtidurga Fort celestial musicians. A
Indo-Islamic architecture. (4-mile) long granite statue of Vishnu asleep
Madhavrao’s cenotaph is deco- walls of the fort, when he on Ananta, the cosmic serpent
rated with pietra dura work in conquered it in 1528. Cut into (see pp28–9), is among the early
lapis lazuli and onyx. There are the adjacent rock face are masterpieces of Indian art.
life-size statues of the ruler and
his mother and, in accordance
with family tradition, their
favourite foods are brought
and left here every day. The
colonial-style Madhav Vilas
Palace has airy terraces over-
looking the town. The 156-sq km
(60 sq-mile) Madhav National
Park is a mixed deciduous
forest with an artificial lake,
surrounded by grasslands.
George Castle, a hunting lodge,
was built by Jiyajirao Scindia in
honour of King George V, who
stayed here in 1911. Chanderi’s fort, the scene of many battles
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp696–7 and p710


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238  CENTR AL INDIA


Orchha: Jahangir Mahal
An excellent example of Rajput Bundela architecture, this
palace was built by the Bundela king Bir Singh Deo and
named after the Mughal emperor Jahangir, who spent one
night here. The many-layered palace has 132 chambers off
and above the central courtyard and an almost equal number
of subterranean rooms. The square sandstone palace is
extravagantly embellished with lapis lazuli tiles, graceful
chhatris and ornate jali screens. It also has a modest museum.
. Entrance Gateway
One of the chhatris (cenotaphs) of the The impressive entrance
Bundela kings at Orchha gateway, flanked by stone
elephants, leads up to the
3 Orchha central courtyard.
Tikamgarh district. 120 km (75 miles) SE
of Gwalior. £ Jhansi, 19 km (12 miles)
NW of Orchha, then taxi or bus. @ Son
et Lumière (Chaturbhuj, Jehangir Mahal,
& Raj Mahal): Mar–Oct: 7:30–8:30pm
(English), 8:45–9:45pm (Hindi); Nov–Feb:
6:30–7:30pm (English), 7:45–8:45pm
(Hindi). n MP Tourism, Sheesh Mahal,
(07680) 25 2624; Betwa Retreat, (07680)
25 2618/2402. _ Ramnavami (Apr),
Dussehra (Sep/Oct).
Orchha is dramatically positioned
on a rocky island, enclosed by a
loop of the Betwa river. Founded
in 1531, it was the capital of the
Bundela kings until 1738, when
it was abandoned for Tikamgarh.
Crumbling palaces, pavilions,
hamams, walls and gates, con nec­
ted to the town with a 14­arched
causeway, are all that remain
today. The three main palaces are
massed symmetrically together.
These are the Raja Mahal (1560),
Jahangir Mahal (1626) and Rai
Praveen Mahal (mid­1670s),
named after a royal paramour.
The old town is dominated
by three beautiful temples – the
Ram Raja, the Lakshmi Narayan KEY
and the Chaturbhuj. A unique
blend of fort and temple styles, 1 Carved niches line the
the Chaturbhuj Temple is dedi­ outer walls.
cated to Vishnu and has huge 2 Chhatris or cupolas give
arcaded halls for massed singing, the palace’s roofline a delicate
and a soaring spire. and airy feel.
Lying along the Kanchana Ghat 3 Jahangir’s bedroom
of the Betwa are the 14 beautiful
cenotaphs of the Orchha rulers. 4 Fortified bastions protect Entrance
the palace.
Along with the many sati pillars in
Jahangiri Mahal’s museum, these 5 The central courtyard can be
serve as reminders of Orchha’s viewed from each part of the palace
feudal past, when queens some­ and has a small museum in a set of
rooms that run along it.
times committed sati by jumping
into their husband’s funeral pyres.
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp696–7 and p710


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M ADH Y A PR ADESH & CHHA T TISGARH  239


VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
Practical Information
Palace Complex.
Open daily. Closed public hols.
n Sheesh Mahal (MP Tourism),
Orchha, (07680) 252 624. & 8
0 m Museum: Open daily.
Closed public hols.
. Domed Pavilion
A domed pavilion, with an apartment beneath,
marks the corners as well as the middle of each
side of the palace.






Glazed Tilework
Geometric lapis lazuli
motifs decorate the
outer façade at the top.

























Plan of Orchha
The fortified town of Orchha encloses
three major palaces and ruined
ancillary structures.
1 Jahangir Mahal
2 Sheesh Mahal
3 Raja Mahal
4 Rai Praveen Mahal
5 Hamam
6 Stable
Key
Illustrated area





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240  CENTR AL INDIA

6 Khajuraho: Kandariya Mahadev Temple

The magnificent group of temples at Khajuraho,
a UNESCO World Heritage Site, were built between
the 9th and 10th centuries by the Chandela dynasty
that dominated Central India at that time. The most
impressive of the temples is the Kandariya Mahadev,
which represents the pinnacle of North Indian temple
art and architecture. It is remarkable for its grand
dimensions, its complex yet perfectly harmonious
composition, and its exquisite sculptural embellishment.
Over 800 sculptures cover the temple, depicting gods
and goddesses, beasts and warriors, sensuous maidens,
dancers, musicians and, of course, the erotic scenes
for which the Khajuraho temples are famous.


The Kandariya Mahadev temple, built
. Apsaras 1025–1050
Often carved as support-
bracket figures, the
celestial nymphs reveal
the sculptors’ mastery
of the female form.
Full of natural charm
and sensuous grace,
they are shown as dancers,
attendants of the deities,
or simply engaged in
everyday activities.















KEY
1 The Ardha Mandapa or
east-facing entrance porch has an
exquisite makara torana (ceremonial
arch) flanked by two crocodile heads,
and covered with floral tracery.
2 The Maha Mandapa features
carved pillars, nymph-brackets,
a corbelled ceiling and balconied
windows, which add to the
sumptuousness of the central
hall’s interior.
3 The first tier above the terrace
is carved with processional friezes
and goddesses.

For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp696–7 and p710


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M ADH Y A PR ADESH & CHHA T TISGARH  241


VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
Practical Information
Chhatarpur district 275 km
(171 miles) SE of Gwalior.
n Taj Chandela: (07686) 27
235564. Closed Aug–Sep. &
_ Dance Festival (Feb–Mar).
Son et Lumière: Mar–Aug: 7:30–
8:20pm (English), 8:40–9:30pm
(Hindi); Sep–Feb: 7–7:50pm
(English), 8–9pm (Hindi). &
Transport
~ 5 km (3 miles) S of temples. @

. Main Shikhara
The main spire soars to 30 m (98 ft),
while 84 smaller ones rise in a
crescendo towards it, to create the
impression of a mountain range –
more specifically, Mount Kailasa,
the abode of Shiva.













. Erotic Panels
The largest erotic panels are on the northern and southern
facades, between the balconies. The erotic sculptures are
variously believed to celebrate the marriage of Shiva and
Parvati, serve as a love manual, or simply express an
exuberant celebration of life and creation.















Garbhagriha
The dark and plain garbhagriha
(inner sanctum), symbolizing a
womb, houses a linga, the phallic
symbol and principal object of
worship in all Shiva temples. The
sanctum is entered through a
richly carved door frame.




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242  CENTR AL INDIA

Exploring Khajuraho

The 25 temples at Khajuraho represent the brilliant burst of
artistic flowering that took place under the generous patronage
of the powerful Chandela rulers, who made Khajuraho their
peacetime capital. The remoteness of the temples’ location
saved them from the ravages of Islamic raiders, but also led to
them being abandoned after the decline of the Chandelas in
the 13th century. Hidden in a dense forest for 700 years, they
were “rediscovered” in 1838 by Captain TS Burt of the Bengal
Engineers. According to local tradition there were originally
85 temples, and ongoing excavations have unearthed
extensive ruins in the area.

The Khajuraho temples are and a fascinating frieze showing
divided into three groups. The the construction of the Khajuraho The polished stone image of Varaha,
most important are in the Western temples, with scenes of stone Vishnu’s boar incarnation
Group which, apart from the being cut and transported.
Kandariya Mahadev (see pp240– A short distance away is the Environs
41), includes the Lakshman and Eastern Group of temples. The Raneh Falls, 17 km (11 miles)
the Vishwanath Temples. Both Jain Parsvanatha Temple, built south of the town of Khajuraho,
are similar to the Kandariya in AD 950, is the most provide a cool retreat. The 19th-
Mahadev in composition, remarkable, for the century Rajagarh Palace, 25 km
sculptural embellishments intricately carved ceiling (16 miles) southeast of Khajuraho,
and themes, but they also pendants in its entrance is in the same Bundela style as
have individual features. porch. Three exquisite the palaces at Datia and Orchha
The superb ceiling of the sculptures here show (see pp238–9). Situated 32 km
entrance porch and the apsaras applying kohl (20 miles) southeast of Khajuraho,
female bracket figures around their eyes, the Panna National Park has
inside the Lakshman painting their feet (both leopards, herds of deer and the
Temple (built in AD 930) on the south façade), and scenic Pandav Falls. A favourite
are worth special notice. fastening ankle bells tourist spot in the park is Gille’s
The pair of street singers (on the north façade). Tree House restaurant, perched
on the south façade are The last phase of temple- 20 m (66 ft) above the ground.
also remarkable, with their Apsara applying building in Khajuraho is
expressions of intense kohl to the eyes seen in the Southern
absorption. The master Group. The Chaturbhuj 7 Ajaigarh
architect and his apprentices are Temple (built AD 1090) has a Panna district. 75 km (47 miles)
exquisitely sculpted on the superb four-armed image of Shiva E of Khajuraho. Open daily.
subsidiary shrine in the temple’s in the inner sanctum. It is the
eastern corner. only major temple in Khajuraho This great Chandela citadel,
Opposite the Lakshman Temple without any erotic sculptures. built in the 9th century AD
is a pavilion with a magnificent and perched 500 m (1,640 ft)
statue of Varaha, the boar incar- E Archaeological Museum above the plains, is now a
nation of Vishnu (see p683), covered Open 8am–5pm Sat–Thu. Tel (07686) spectacular ruin. The steep path
with carvings of several deities. 272 320. up to the top goes past gigantic
In the Vishwanath Temple, sculptures carved into the sheer
dating to AD 1002, the apsara cliff face, inclu ding a particularly
plucking a thorn from her foot (on enchanting one of a cow and
the south façade) is outstanding, calf. Within the fort lie the ruins
as is the apsara (celestial nymph) of once-magnifi cent palaces,
playing the flute, which can be broken fragments of statues,
seen in the interior chamber. and several poignant sati pillars,
The Matangeshwar Temple marking the self-immolation
(built AD 900), with its plain of countless Rajput widows.
circular interior, is the only one The fort also houses the Ajay
still in everyday use (see p247). Pal ka Talao, a famous lake,
The Archaeological Museum, and the ruins of a Jain Temple.
near the entrance to the Western Today, the fort can be accessed
Group, has a fine collection of by its two gates: Darwaza,
sculptures found in the area, An image of Vishnu in the to the north, and Tarhaoni, to
including a dancing Ganesha, Lakshman Temple the southeast.
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp696–7 and p710


242-243_EW_India.indd 242 26/04/17 11:44 am
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8 Bandhavgarh National Park VISITORS’ CHECKLIST

One of India’s most important Tiger Reserves, the Practical Information
Bandhavgarh National Park sprawls across an area Shahdol district. 237 km
of 625 sq km (241 sq miles). Apart from some 50 (147 miles) SE of Khajuraho.
Tel (07627) 265 406.
tigers, the park’s wildlife includes 250 species of birds, n White Tiger Forest Lodge, Tala
leopards, deer, jungle cats and packs of dhole (Indian (MP Tourism). Open Oct–Jun. &
wild dog). Great rocky hills, lush deciduous forests, Extra charges for photography.
8  Jeep safaris available.
marshes and meadows make Bandhavgarh one of
India’s most scenic areas. A picturesque hilltop fort Transport
£ Umaria, 33 km (21 miles) SW
with fine sculptures is part of the park’s attractions.
of Tala, the main entry point. @
Sheshasaya Statue
A 11-m (36-ft) long
statue of the reclining
Vishnu, guarded by a
seven-headed snake, is
at the base of the fort.

Jabalpur The Fort
Satna, Panna,
Khajuraho Manpur The ramparts of
Bandhavgarh’s fort,
Charan Ganga whose foundations
Tala date back to the 1st
century AD, are
Khatauli a good place for
J bird-watching.
Dorka
Parasi Hardia
Gohni
Umaria

Kamarwa
Johilla


Crested
Serpent Eagle
This large eagle
preys on snakes
Dhole and lizards.
The Indian wild dog has a
distinctive whistling call, to
assemble the pack. It has a
red coat, large upright ears
and a bushy tail. The White Tiger of Rewa
In 1951, the maharaja of Rewa captured
a white tiger in these forests. Named Mohan,
0 kilometres 5 he was mated in captivity with several
0 miles 5 tigresses, and all the white tigers in zoos
across the world today are Mohan’s
descendants. A pair can be seen at Bhopal’s
Van Vihar National Park (see p245). Since
Key 1951, no other white tiger has been seen in
the Bandhavgarh region. The white tiger is The white tiger, very rare
Park boundary
an “evolutionary colour aberration” and not in the wild
Major road an albino, nor a separate sub-species.
Minor road
For keys to symbols see back flap


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244  CENTR AL INDIA

9 Bhopal

The capital of Madhya Pradesh, Bhopal was founded in the
11th century by Raja Bhoj of the Paramara dynasty. By the
18th century, it was held by a Muslim dynasty, whose rulers
included several remarkable women, the Begums of Bhopal.
The city, ringed by hills, stretches along the shores of two
artificial lakes, the Upper and Lower lakes. The old quarter,
north of the lakes, is a maze of narrow lanes, bazaars and
mosques. To the south is the new city, with its leafy suburbs
and industrial enclaves. In December 1984, a toxic gas leak
from the Union Carbide factory claimed the lives of 15,000
people, in one of the world’s worst industrial disasters. With Fountain and tank inside the 19th-century
the wounds of this tragedy now healing, Bhopal is a good Moti Masjid
base for visiting some of the state’s fascinating sites.
With its striped dome and
tapering sandstone minarets, it
U Taj-ul-Masjid P The Chowk looks like a smaller version of the
Hamidia Rd. Open daily. Bazaar: Open Tue–Sun. Jama Masjid: Jama Masjid in Delhi (see p90).
Closed to non-Muslims on Fri & on Open daily. Closed to non-Muslims Also worth visiting in this area
Muslim festivals. on Fri & on Muslim festivals. is the Shaukat Mahal, a 19th-
The most imposing monument Situated in the centre of the old century Indo-Saracenic-cum-
in Bhopal, this large, pink- quarter is the Chowk (literally, Rococo palace. Built by a French
washed mosque was begun main square). Streets radiate mercenary, who claimed to be a
by Sultan Jehan Begum in 1878 out from it, with each one descendant of the Bourbons, it
but was left unfinished for specializing in a particular type now houses government offices,
almost a century before being of goods – the Bhopali batuas though visitors are usually
completed in 1971. (elaborately beaded purses) allowed inside by the guards.
A progressive ruler, the for which Bhopal is famous,
begum established tussar silk, caps, drums and E Bharat Bhavan
the city’s postal system spices. Havelis line the Shamla Hills. Tel (0755) 266 0239.
and hospitals, but streets, with wooden- Open Feb–Oct: 2–8pm; Nov–Jan: 1–
virtually bankrupted the fronted shops on the 7pm. Closed Mon & public hols. & 0
royal treasury as a result ground floor, and A large cultural complex, Bharat
of her ambitious elaborate wrought-iron Bhavan was established in 1982
schemes. The enormous balconies above. Dominat- to promote India’s tribal and folk
courtyard of the mosque Bhopali batua ing the area is the Jama art heritage. To the right of the
has a dukka (water tank) Masjid with its gold finials. entrance is the Tribal Art Gallery,
for ritual ablutions, and the vast Built in 1837 by Qudsia Begum, a superb collec tion of votive
prayer hall is striking for its another of Bhopal’s female rulers, objects, terracotta figures, masks,
rows of pillars. This grandiose it is now surrounded by shops wall paintings, wood carvings,
mosque is surmounted by three selling silver jewellery. and the distinctive metal
white domes and flanked by South of the Chowk is another sculptures created by craftsmen
two 18-storeyed minarets. Its mosque, the Moti Masjid (“Pearl from Bastar (see p257). A gallery
general ambience is majestic Mosque”), built in 1860 by Qudsia across the courtyard exhibits
rather than beautiful. Begum’s daughter and successor. contemporary Indian art. Bharat
Bhavan is also the venue for
regular evening perfor mances
of theatre, music and dance.
E State Museum
Shamla Hills, Banganga Marg.
Tel (0755) 266 1856. Open 10am–
5pm Tue–Sun. = &
A collection of 12th-century Jain
bronzes, found in Dhar district
in western Madhya Pradesh, form
the highlight of this museum’s
collection. It also has a series of
striking stone sculptures, mostly
from the 6th to 10th centuries.
Taj-ul-Masjid, Bhopal’s most imposing monument Older pieces include yakshis
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp696–7 and p710


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M ADH Y A PR ADESH & CHHA T TISGARH  245


VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
Practical Information
Bhopal district. 744 km
(462 miles) S of Delhi.
* 1,433,900. n MP Tourism,
Paryatan Bhavan, Bhadbhada Rd
(0755) 277 4340. ( Tue–Sun.
∑ mptourism.com
Transport
~ 11 km (7 miles) W of city
centre. £ @
Replica of a tribal hut in the Indira Gandhi Rashtriya Manav Sangrahalaya
E Birla Museum
(female attendants) dating to the highlights are 32 rock shelters Near Lakshmi Narayan Temple.
200 BC, and a Standing Buddha decorated with prehistoric Tel (0755) 255 1388.
in black granite. The museum paintings. An indoor museum Open 9:30am–5pm daily. &
shop has good plaster replicas displays utensils, jewellery, ritual This museum has a collection
of some sculptures for sale. objects, musical instruments, of stone sculptures dating
murals, tools and costumes of from the 7th to 12th centuries.
E Indira Gandhi Rashtriya cultures from all over the country. Shiva, Vishnu and various
Manav Sangrahalaya goddesses are shown in
(Museum of Man) O Van Vihar National Park their different incarnations.
Shamla Hills. Open Mar–Aug: 11am– Open 7am–7pm. Closed Fri. & Particularly impressive are
6:30pm; Sep–Feb: 10am–5:30pm. The most famous inhabitants Vishnu in his boar (Varaha)
Closed Mon & public holidays. = of this large park, near the incarnation, Goddess Durga
Set in the hills overlooking the Upper Lake, are the white tigers in her ferocious Chamunda
Upper Lake, this open-air museum (see p243). A good time to see form, and Shiva and his consort
re-creates the tribal habitats of these rare creatures is at about Parvati in their celestial home
various Indian communities. The 4pm, when they come to the on Mount Kailasa. Next to
Himalayan Village, Coastal Village edge of their enclosure for their the museum is the large
and Desert Village all feature evening meal. The park is also and brightly painted Lakshmi
actual-size dwellings built by the home to lions, leopards and Narayan Temple, overlooking
tribal people themselves. Among Himalayan bears. the Lower Lake.

Bhopal City Centre SANCHI
1 Taj-ul-Masjid Baag Munshi Bhopal Railway
2 The Chowk Motia Talab Husain ka Talab H A M I D I A R O A D Bhopal Station
Bus Stand
3 Bharat Bhavan
4 State Museum
INDORE R I D G E
Taj-ul- B E R A S I A R O A D
Raja Bhoj Airport Masjid
9 km (6 miles) N H 8 6 M ANGALWARA RD R A I LW AY B
Jama MARVADI ROAD
Masjid
Shaukat PUL B O G D O R D
Mahal
V I P R O A D
The Chowk
Yaadgaar e
Moti Masjid Shahjahani Park
0 metres 500 S U LTA N I A R O A D
Upper Lake
0 yards 500
Kamala
Brindaban Park Ram
Garden KAMAL A PARK ROAD Mandir
Lower Lake S U L T A N I A R O A D
Bharat
Bhavan SHAMLA
LAKE DRIVE RD HILLS
Rashtriya Manav
Sangrahalaya, JA IL R OA D
Van Vihar National Park
State BHADABHADA RD BHOJPUR
Birla
Museum Museum
For keys to symbols see back flap
244-245_EW_India.indd 245 26/04/17 11:44 am

246  CENTR AL INDIA


Environs (ASI) under Sir John Marshall. It
The Bhimbetka Caves is a was declared a World Heri tage
UNESCO World Heritage Site. Their Site by UNESCO in 1989. Most
prehistoric paintings, dating back of Sanchi’s buildings are within
some 12,000 years, are about 17 an enclosure at the top of the
km (11 miles) south of Bhojpur. 91-m (299-ft) hill, dominated
by the Great Stupa and its four
superb gateways (see pp248–9).
q Sanchi Nearby, to its north, is the smaller
Stupa 3 (built 2nd century BC),
Raisen district. 46 km (29 miles) NE of
Bhopal. £ @ n Gateway Retreat, with its single gateway, which
(07482) 26 6723. _ Chaityagiri Vihara contained the relics of two of
Festival (Nov). the Buddha’s closest disciples,
Sariputra and Maudgalyayana.
The tranquil hill of Sanchi Also within the enclosure
contains one of India’s best- are several monasteries, which
preserved and most extensive are located on the eastern,
Sculpture from the incomplete Bhojeshwar Buddhist sites. From the 3rd western and southern sides.
Temple, Bhojpur century BC to the 7th century Of these the 10th-century
AD, this was a thriving Buddhist Monastery 51 is the most
0 Bhojpur establishment of stupas and interesting, with its courtyard
monasteries. The complex of surrounded by a colonnade,
Bhopal district. 28 km (17 miles)
SE of Bhopal. @ n MP Tourism, buildings at Sanchi therefore behind which are 22 monks’
Bhopal, (0755) 277 4342/8383. shows the development cells. Temple 17, on the
of Buddhist art across eastern side, dates
Founded by the 11th-century different periods, to the 5th century AD.
Paramara king, Raja Bhoj, who stretching over more A flat-roofed structure
also established Bhopal (see than 1,000 years. with columns surmounted
pp244–5), Bhojpur is domin ated Founded by Emperor by double-headed lions,
by the monumental, though Ashoka (see p46), this is the earliest well-
incomplete, Bhojeshwar Temple. whose wife came Votive stupa with preserved example
Impressive sculptures cover from nearby Vidisha, Buddha image of an Indian stone
parts of its unfinished corbelled Sanchi grew and temple, and its style
ceiling and its entrance doorway. prospered under subsequent and features con siderably
Inside, on a tiered platform, is dynasties, largely through the influenced the later develop-
an enormous stone Shiva linga, generous patronage of the rich ment of temple architecture.
2.3-m (8-ft) high and 5.3 m merchants of Vidisha. By the Located below the Great Stupa,
(17 ft) in circumference. Etched 14th century, Buddhism was just outside the enclosure, is
on the paving stones and on the wane in India and Stupa 2 (2nd century BC), whose
rocks in the forecourt are the Sanchi was deserted and half railings are carved with lotus
architect’s detailed plans for forgotten, until it was medallions and mythical beasts.
the finished temple, while “rediscovered” in 1818 by General Also depicted is a horse with
on the northeast side are the Taylor of the Bengal Cavalry. stirrups. Near the South Gateway
remains of a massive earthen Between 1912 and 1919 it was of the Great Stupa lies the broken
ramp used to haul stone up extensively restored by the shaft of an Ashokan Pillar, made
to the roof. Archaeological Survey of India of highly polished stone. It was
The Bhimbetka Cave Paintings
In 1957, the Indian archaeologist VS Wakanker discovered over 1,000 rock shelters in
a sandstone ridge near Bhimbetka village; they were surrounded by thick deciduous
forest. More than 500 of these were covered with paintings done in bold, fluent lines,
with the same power and energy as the cave paintings in Lascaux, France, or the
Kalahari paintings in Africa. The earliest paintings,
from the Upper Paleolithic period, are of large
animals such as bison and rhino, done in red
pigment, with humans drawn in green. The
largest number of paintings are from the
Cave shelter Mesolithic period (8000 to 5000 BC), and depict
at Bhimbetka vignettes of daily life, hunting scenes and a range
of animals including, curiously, a giraffe. Later
caves (1st century AD) show battle scenes and Hindu deities. It Mesolithic period cave painting
was declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2003. from Bhimbetka

For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp696–7 and p710


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Festivals of
Madhya Pradesh &
Chhattisgarh
Shivratri (Feb/Mar),
Khajuraho. The celestial
wedding of Shiva and Parvati
is celebrated with colourful
processions and an elaborate
nightlong re-enactment of
the wedding ritual in the
Matangeshwar Temple.
Dance Festival (Feb/Mar),
Stupa 3, which originally contained the relics of the Buddha’s disciples
Khajuraho. During this week-
long festival, India’s leading
used as a sugarcane press by with its impressive sculpture classical dancers perform
a local landlord in the 19th of Varaha, the incarnation of in front of the Kandariya
century. Its four-headed lion Vishnu as a boar, rescuing Mahadeva Temple. The
capital, similar to the one at the earth goddess from the postures and grace of the
Sarnath (see p212) but not as churning ocean. dancers are echoed in the
fine, can now be seen in the Raisen Fort straddles a hill-top exquisite stone sculptures
Sanchi Archaeological Museum. 23 km (14 miles) southeast of of apsaras in the temple.
Some other notable exhibits Sanchi. Its 13th-century gates,
here include a pair of winged palaces, temples and pavilions
Mauryan lions, sculptural friezes have lain in ruins ever since a
from the gateways and statues devastating attack in the 16th
of the Buddha and Bodhisattvas. century by the Sultan of Gujarat,
but the site is still hauntingly
Environs atmospheric to visit.
Besnagar, situated 10 km Udayapur, 70 km (43 miles)
(6 miles) northeast of Sanchi, northeast of Sanchi, has the Classical dancer at Khajuraho
on the confluence of the Beas exquisite 11th-century red Dance Festival
and Betwa rivers, was once a sandstone Nilkanteshwar
prosperous centre of trade. Temple, dedicated to Shiva. Dussehra (Sep/Oct)
A unique relic of its past is the It is comparable in scale and Chhattisgarh. This ten-day
Heliodorus Column, with its sculptural beauty to the Kha- festival in honour of Rama is
fluted bell-shaped capital, dating juraho temples (see pp240–42). celebrated with great gaiety
to 113 BC. Dedicated to the god The symmetry of its graceful in the Bastar tribal heartland
Vasudeva, it was erected by shikhara, rising in a crescendo of Chhattisgarh. Along with
the envoy of the Greek king of delicately carved stone, lively dramatized episodes
of Taxila (now in Pakistan), to is broken by a curious figure from the Ramayana (see p31),
commemorate his conversion that seems to dangle in space. there are also colourful tribal
to Hinduism. According to local legend, this fairs with dancing, cock-
Udayagiri, 20 km (12 miles) figure represents the architect, fights and spirited bartering
north of Sanchi, has magnificent trying to climb to the heavens. of goods.
examples of 5th-century AD
rock-cut caves, carved into the Chaityagiri Vihara Festival
hillside. Most notable is Cave 5, w Gyaraspur (Nov), Sanchi. Buddhists from
all over the subcontinent
Vidisha district. 64 km (40 miles) NE of
Bhopal. @ n MP Tourism, Bhopal, gather at Sanchi to view the
(0755) 277 4340. relics of two of the Buddha’s
closest disciples.
The ornately carved 9th- century
Maladevi Temple at Gyaraspur Tansen Music Festival
is built on a hillside. Partly (Nov/Dec), Gwalior. Named
carved out of a rock, it is after the great musician
now in ruins, and much of Tansen, one of the “nine jewels”,
its superb sculpture has been at the court of Mughal
pillaged. The exquisite statue of emperor Akbar, this festival
the salabhanjika, which is now brings together the best
the pride of the Archaeological classical musicians and singers
Sculpture of Varaha, Vishnu’s boar incarnation, Museum at Gwalior Fort (see from all over the country.
from Cave 5, Udayagiri p233), was salvaged from here.




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248  CENTR AL INDIA

Sanchi: The Great Stupa

India’s finest surviving Buddhist monument and World
Heritage Site, the Great Stupa at Sanchi, was built in
the 2nd century BC. Its hemispherical shape is variously
believed to symbolize the upturned alms bowl of a
Buddhist monk, or an umbrella of protection for followers
of the Buddhist dharma. The stupa’s main glory lies in its
four stone toranas (gateways), added in the 1st century BC.
Their sculptures replicate the techniques of wood and
ivory carving, and cover a rich variety of Buddhist themes.
West Gateway
This animated scene from the
Jataka Tales shows monkeys
scrambling across a bridge
to escape from soldiers.










Circumambulatory Paths
The paths have balustrades carved
with medallions of flowers, birds
and animals, and the names of
donors who funded them.



























Architrave Detail
The intricate carving
South Gateway on the architraves is
The Wheel of Law, being believed to be the
worshipped by devotees, work of ivory and
symbolizes the Buddha. wood carvers.
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp696–7 and p710


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