(DK Eyewitness) Travel Guide - India

K ARNA T AK A  549





















The walled road leading to the entrance gateway of Bidar’s fort
another with a prominent and at one time boasted a huge including platters, boxes, huqqa
dome, leads into what was library, which was well-stocked bases and trays. Today, the finest
once the royal enclave. To the with scholarly manuscripts. A pieces are housed in museums,
left is the Rangin Mahal, an superb example of Central Asian- and only a handful of artisan
exquisite palace built by Ali Shah style architecture, it has four families still practise this craft
Barid in the 16th century. The arched portals that stand against in the town of its origin.
hall, with its original wooden a background of domes facing a
columns displaying ornate central court. A pair of minarets Environs
brackets and beams, flanks its façade. Tile The Bahmani necropolis stands
and the rear chamber mosaics on the exterior in the open countryside near
adorned with still survive, including Ashtur, a small village 3 km
magnificent tile a finely worked (2 miles) northeast of Bidar. The
mosaics and inlaid calligraphic band in oldest and grandest of the tombs
mother-of-pearl rich blue and white. is the early 15th-century Tomb of
decoration, are Tile mosaic at Still further south, the Ahmad Shah. Splendid murals
especially striking. Bidar’s madrasa Chaubara is a circular embellish the interior walls as well
Nearby is the tower, marking the as the huge dome. The adjacent
unusual Solah Khamba intersection of the city ‘s two tomb of Alauddin Ahmad II, his
Mosque, with massive circular principal thoroughfares. successor, has coloured tile mosaics.
columns, built by the Tughluqs The Mausolea of the Baridi Just outside is the Chaukhandi,
(see p52) in 1327. In front is the rulers lie west of Bidar. The the modest tomb of the saint
Lal Bagh, a walled garden with largest is the Tomb of Ali Shah Khalil Allah (d.1460), which has
a central lobe-fringed pool. A Barid (1577). This lofty, domed superb calligraphic panels over
short distance to the south is chamber, open on four sides, the doorways.
the ruined Diwan-i-Am, the stands in the middle of a
Public Audience Hall, and the symmetrical four-square garden.
Takht Mahal, a monumental Blank panels above the arches
portal with traces of hexagonal once contained tile mosaic,
tiles decorated with tiger and examples of which are preserved
sun emblems in the spandrels. inside. The black polished basalt
The old walled town sprawls sarcophagus is still in situ.
beneath the ramparts of the fort. Bidar is also known for a
On one side of the main north- special type of encrusted
south street is the Takhti-i- metalware, often mistaken for
Kirmani, a 15th-century gateway damascening, known as bidri
embellished with bands of (see p669). Introduced in the
foliate and arabesque designs. mid-17th century by artisans
Further south is the magnificent from Iran, the craft flourished
late 15th-century Madrasa of under court patronage. The style,
Mahmud Gawan, named after characterized by intricate floral
the erudite prime minister, and geometric designs, inlaid
who was the virtual ruler of the in gold, silver or brass onto a
Bahmani kingdom. This used to matt black surface, was used Façade of the Madrasa of Mahmud
be a famous theological college, to embellish various objects, Gawan in Bidar




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SOUTH


INDIA







Introducing South India 552–559

Chennai 560–579
Tamil Nadu 580–619
Andaman Islands 620–627
Kerala 628–661
Andhra Pradesh &
Telangana 662–687











































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552  SOUTH INDIA

Introducing South India

South of the Vindhya range, India’s Dravidian Adilabad
heartland has all that a visitor could look for. Dramatic Kagaznagar
coastlines, both on the Arabian Sea and the Bay of
Bengal, meet at Kanniyakumari on the Indian Ocean. Nirmal Godavari Parvatipuram
Isolated beaches, dense forests and game reserves Jagtial Sironcha Ramatirtham Tekkali
are among its natural wonders. Tamil Nadu has Nizamabad Karimnagar Borra Caves
some of India’s most magnificent ancient temples, Ramareddi T E L A N G A N A Srikakulam
still active centres of religious practice. A different Nizam Palampet Vizianagaram
Sagar
culture prevails in Puducherry, which retains a Warangal Visakhapatnam
strong French influence. Kerala is rich in beautiful Fisherman at a sluice gate on the Secunderabad Kottagudem Godavari Anakapalle
scenery as well as in cultural heritage, while Andhra Kaveri river Hyderabad Pochampalli Khammam
Pradesh and Telangana have some of the region’s Rajahmundry
most fascinating historic sites. Eluru Kakinada
Mahbubnagar Yanam
Nagarjuna Krishna
Sagar Kondapalli Vijayawada Mouths of
Guntur the Godavari
Vinukonda Machilipatnam
Chilakalurupet
Kurnool A N D H R A
the Krishna
P R A D E S H Mouths of
Adoni
Dhone Ongole
Nandyal Giddalur
Guntakal
Kavali Bay of
Tadpatri
Proddatur Bengal
Anantapur Cuddapah
Penneru Nellore
Dharmavaram
Rajampet
Puttaparthi Gudur
Penukonda Rayachoti
Lepakshi Tirupati Sri Kalahasti
A class in progress in a traditional Vedic school, Tamil Nadu Pulicat Lake
Madanapalle
Chittoor
Chennai
0 kilometres 100
Vellore Kanchipuram
0 miles 100 Mamallapuram
Kasaragod Krishnagiri
Tiruvannamalai
Dharmapuri Tindivanam
Kannur Ponnaiyar
Cherbaniani Reef Puducherry
Thalassery Salem Kĩranur Cuddalore
Byramgore Reef Kalpeta
Chetlat Island Vadakara Erode Chidambaram
Bitra Island Kozhikode
Kiltan Island Tiruppur T A M I L N A D U
Perumulappara Beypore Kumbakonam
Kadmat Island Tanur Coimbatore Karur Karaikal
Bangaram Island Amindivi Island Palakkad Pollachi Tiruchirapalli Nagappattinam
Agatti Island Pitti Island Androth Island Guruvayur Thanjavur
Kavaratti Island Thrissur Palani Dindigul Pudukkottai
Kodungallur Munnar
Ernakulam
Suheli Island Kochi P a l k S t r a i t
Kalpeni Island KERALA Madurai Tondi
Kottayam Virudunagar
Alappuzha Periyar
0 kilometres 100 Tiger Rajapalaiyam Ramanathapuram
Reserve
0 miles 100 Kayankulam Rameshvaram
Tenkasi
Kollam
Tirunelveli Tuticorin
Lakshadweep Thiruvananthapuram Tiruchendur
Islands Minicoy Island Nagercoil
Cape
Kanniyakumari Comorin
Wooden boat cruise in the backwaters jungle in Kochin, Kerala
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INTRODUCING SOUTH INDIA  553





Adilabad
Kagaznagar
Nirmal Godavari Parvatipuram
Jagtial Sironcha Ramatirtham Tekkali
Nizamabad
Karimnagar Borra Caves
Ramareddi T E L A N G A N A Srikakulam
Nizam Palampet Vizianagaram
Sagar
Warangal
Anakapalle Visakhapatnam
Kottagudem
Secunderabad Godavari
Pochampalli Khammam
Hyderabad
Rajahmundry
Kakinada
Eluru
Mahbubnagar Yanam
Nagarjuna Krishna
Sagar Kondapalli Vijayawada Mouths of
Guntur the Godavari
Vinukonda Machilipatnam
Chilakalurupet TELANGANA
Kurnool A N D H R A
the Krishna
P R A D E S H Mouths of ANDHRA
Adoni PRADESH
Dhone Ongole
Nandyal Giddalur
Guntakal CHENNAI ANDAMAN
Kavali Bay of TAMIL ISLANDS
Tadpatri KERALA NADU
Proddatur Bengal LAKSHADWEEP
ISLANDS
Anantapur Cuddapah
Penneru Nellore
Dharmavaram
Rajampet
Puttaparthi Gudur
Penukonda Rayachoti Kolkata
Lepakshi Tirupati Sri Kalahasti Andaman Landfall Narcondam
Island
Pulicat Lake Islands Island
Madanapalle Diglipur
Chittoor Bay of Bengal
Chennai Mayabander
Interview
Island
Vellore Kanchipuram Rangat Barren
Island
Mamallapuram
Kasaragod Krishnagiri Henry Lawrence
Tiruvannamalai Baratang Island
Dharmapuri Tindivanam Havelock Island
Kannur Ponnaiyar Puducherry Chennai Neil Island
Andaman Sea
Thalassery Kalpeta Salem Kĩranur Cuddalore North Port Blair Chidiya Tapu
Vadakara Erode Chidambaram Sentinel Island
Cinque Island
Kozhikode Tiruppur The Sisters
Beypore T A M I L N A D U Kumbakonam
Karur
Tanur Coimbatore Karaikal 0 km 200 Little Andaman
Palakkad Pollachi Tiruchirapalli Nagappattinam 0 miles 200 Nicobar
Thanjavur Islands
Guruvayur
Thrissur
Palani Dindigul Pudukkottai
Kodungallur Munnar Getting Around
Ernakulam P a l k S t r a i t
Kochi KERALA Madurai Tondi The three state capitals, Chennai, Thiruvanantha­
Kottayam Virudunagar puram and Hyderabad are serviced by domestic
Alappuzha Periyar and international airlines. The extensive road and
Tiger Rajapalaiyam Ramanathapuram railway network connects the smaller towns. For
Reserve Key a special rail journey, take the Blue Mountain Train
Kayankulam Rameshvaram National highway
Tenkasi from Coimbatore to Ooty (see pp608–609). There
Kollam Major road are regular flights from Kolkata and Chennai to
Tirunelveli Tuticorin State border the Andaman Islands, and from Kochi (Kerala) to
Thiruvananthapuram Tiruchendur Main railway Agatti (Lakshadweep). Cruises to Lakshadweep
Nagercoil Minor railway are available from Kochi, and to the Andamans
from Chennai, Kolkata and Visakhapatnam.
Kanniyakumari Cape
Comorin
For keys to symbols see back flap
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554  SOUTH INDIA


A PORTRAIT OF

SOUTH INDIA



The term “South India”, though it conveys a sense of geographical
unity, also encompasses a multitude of differences. While the three
states – Tamil Nadu, Kerala and Andhra Pradesh – share, to some
extent, an ancient heritage, they speak different languages, and each
has its distinct artistic, cultural and political tradition.
A popular view holds that while the ruled by two regional parties.
history of North India is one of wars Though arch-rivals, they share
and invasions, the south remained a common platform, based
cocooned in peaceful stagnation. In on a strong advocacy of Tamil
actual fact, the three states witnessed language and culture. Tamil is
bloody conflicts between Jainism the oldest-surviving Dravidian
and Buddhism on the one hand, and language, with a literature
Brahmin ical Hinduism on the other. that goes back to AD 300. This
They saw the rise and fall of powerful period, known as the Sangam
kingdoms, who fought many wars era, derives its name from the
to establish their dominance. In Tamil Sangams, gatherings
the beginning of the colonial Wooden effigy, of poets and writers, which
period, South India was also a Thiruvananthapuram produced countless poems
battleground between the Europeans that were remarkably secular in nature,
and the regional kingdoms. All these and of which over 2,000 have survived.
upheavals have left their mark on Another enduring expression of Tamil
the region. culture is visible in Tamil Nadu’s Hindu
Tamil Nadu, the heartland of Dravidian temples – it has no fewer than 30,000
India has, for over three decades, been of them.


























A 16th-century Catholic church, overlooking a little fishing village at Kanniyakumari




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INTRODUCING SOUTH INDIA  555


development indices that are
exceptional among Indian states –
the country’s highest literacy rate (the
language spoken here is Malayalam), a
low population growth rate, the lowest
infant mortality rate, and a near-perfect
record in communal harmony. Cul turally,
Kerala boasts spectacular dance forms
such as Kathakali (see p661), and the
martial kalaripayattu (see p630). Today,
its renowned Ayurvedic health resorts
(see p633) are also a major draw for
international travellers.
Telangana is South India’s largest state,
with its capital, Hyderabad, located in
the heart of the Deccan Plateau. This
city was once the seat of the powerful
Nizams (see p664), whose wealth was
legendary. Their legacy has given
A portrait of late film star-turned-politician Jayalalitha Hyderabad a unique flavour, rich in
manifestations of an Islamic culture –
A more modern face of Tamil Nadu can be in its architecture and cuisine, and in
seen in the state capital, Chennai, a vibrant the widespread use of Urdu.
commercial and political centre that Telegu-speaking Andhra Pradesh
still retains its traditional values. shares with Tamil Nadu a penchant for
Here, classical Carnatic film stars-turned-politicians. For
music concerts draw as many years it was ruled by
large and enthusiastic Telugu cinema’s most
crowds as raucous loved actor, NT Rama Rao,
political rallies. Many who specialized in playing
coastal areas in Tamil mythological heroes. His
Nadu were devastated son-in-law, Chandrababu Naidu,
by the December 2004 as chief minister, chose a more
tsunami, which took a toll of A truck overloaded down-to-earth way of winning
over 10,000 lives. Kerala and with hay popular support, with his schemes
Andhra Pradesh were also to modernize the state. As a result,
affected, though to a much lesser extent. Hyderabad, which is also the capital
In Kerala, separated from Tamil Nadu of Andhra Pradesh, now vies with
by the magnificent forested hills of the Bengaluru for the title of India’s
Western Ghats, the main attraction is not information technology capital.
temples (though it has those too), but
natural beauty. It is easy to understand
why this narrow strip of land between
the Arabian Sea and the Western Ghats,
with its verdant landscape of palm trees,
paddy fields and coffee plantations,
crisscrossed by enchanting waterways,
has been dubbed “God’s own country”.
Modern-day Kerala, with a strong
leftist political tradition, boasts of Tamil Brahmin boys performing a religious ritual




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556  south india


Temple Towns

srirangam (see p605) is typical of many towns in south
india, especially in tamil nadu, that are dominated by
sanctuaries dedicated to hindu deities who protect the
city and its population. Conceived as a vast religious
complex, the town is enclosed by high fortress-like walls,
and entered through towering gateways (gopuras). the
temple itself consists of multiple walled enclosures, often
in concentric arrangements, surrounded by streets that
echo the temple’s layout. though srirangam is the most
perfect in layout, other such towns include Chidambaram Puja items being sold outside the
(see p594) and Madurai (see pp612–15). temple enclosure
Kalyana Mandapas (marriage halls) have raised platforms
in the middle. Portable images of the deities are placed
here during the ritual marriage ceremonies and festivals
that are conducted annually, in the presence of
thousands of devotees.
















Kitchens produce
food for priests
and thousands
of pilgrims
during festivals
that take place
in the complex.
Nearby are stores
and granaries.
Subsidiary shrines of
other deities, such as Banners are hoisted on
Garuda and Hanuman slender, brass-clad wooden
in Vishnu temples, and columns in the middle of
Ganesha, Nandi and the enclosure. Here, too,
are small altars.
Subrahmanya or Murugan
in Shiva temples, are
also venerated within
the complex.
The outer enclosures of
temple complexes are packed
with houses to accommodate
the priestly community,
which presides over the
religious life of temple towns.





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introducing south india  557


The main sanctum, where
the principal deity is enshrined,
forms the nucleus of the whole
complex. This is the garbhagriha,
or womb chamber. The main
doorway into the sanctuary
is opened only during prayer
time, to allow worshippers
to make offerings to the
deity within.
Wooden chariots covered
with carved panels are parked
outside the main gates.
During festivals they are Tanks and wells provide
pulled by devotees through water for ritual bathing,
the streets of the town. cooking and general
washing. Temple tanks have
steps on four sides for
bathers to descend to the
water. Small pavilions in
the middle are used for
special festivals.








The inner
enclosures,
constituting the most sacred
precincts, are filled with
subsidiary shrines, pillared halls,
flag columns, altars, kitchens,
rest houses, tanks and wells.





Axial mandapas and corridors direct
worshippers from the outer gopuras towards
the main sanctuary. Sculptures on columns
embellish these passageways. Bronze images
are also displayed here.






Mandapas are columned halls
which sometimes take on vast
proportions, especially the
Gopuras, or ceremonial gateways, with soaring, pyramidal so-called thousand-pillared
towers, are set into four sides of each of the concentric sets of halls. These can accommodate
walls that define the sacred complex. Their hollow brick towers large numbers of visitors who
are covered with brightly painted plaster sculptures. Barrel- come to listen to sermons or to
vaulted roofs at the tops of the towers are crowned by gilded enjoy performances of classical
pot finials, visible from all over the town. music and dance.





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558  SOUTH INDIA


The Flavours of South India

Rice preparations dominate South Indian cuisine, of which
the best known are dosai (rice pancakes served with spiced
potatoes), idli (steamed rice dumplings), vada (deep-fried lentil
doughnuts) and uttapam (a spicy pancake). All are eaten with
sambhar (lentil broth) and chutneys made with coconut, garlic
and chillies. These are “tiffin” or breakfast foods, and specialist
restaurants can be found all over India and abroad. Despite the
commonalities, each state’s cuisine has its own flavour, dictated
by regional tastes and locally grown ingredients, as is evident
in Hyderabad’s sophisticated Muslim cuisine. Sprig of curry leaves

The different communities have middle-class meal comprises
distinctive cuisines. The Hindu boiled rice accompanied by
Brahmins specialize in vege tarian pulses, a vegetable curry, a dry
food, while the Muslims and vegetable, pickles, pop padams,
Christians excel in mutton and and a meat or fish dish for non-
poultry dishes. Foreign influences vegetarians. The sadya, a festive
are apparent, and the classic meal eaten at Onam, is always
moilee, a term used for fish or served on a banana leaf.
vegetable curries, is a corruption
of the Portuguese molho, or sauce. Tamil Nadu
The staple food is rice and the
best-known dish is the appam, a Six tastes – sweet, sour, salty, bitter,
steamed rice pancake. A typical peppery and astringent – define
Fresh green coconuts, providing a Spiced
refreshing drink on a hot day Rava
potatoes Coconut Uttapam Sambhar
Kerala Chilli Vada chutney dosa Plain dosa
Kerala, the land of spices, chutney Idli
particularly pepper, inspired
the European race for an empire
in the East. An abundance of
spices, such as cloves, mace,
cardamom and cinnamon,
has infused the cuisine with
a range of exotic aromas. Added
to this are coconuts, used in the
pre paration of almost all dishes. Selection of South Indian rice preparations and other accompaniments

Local Dishes and Specialities
The common culinary heritage leans heavily on rice, lentils,
coconut and spices. Vegetable preparations are diverse and
range from the steamed or stir-fried poriyal, which is
tempered with spices and curry leaves, to avial
(mixed vegetables in thick coconut sauce)
and mirchi ka salan (a curry with whole
green chillies). Interestingly, the
word curry is a derivative of kari, a
spicy dish from Kerala and Tamil
Nadu, while rasam, integral to
a meal as an appetizer and
digestive, was the base of the
Anglo-Indian mulligatawny soup.
Fresh coconuts Chicken, lamb and fish also feature Appams and stew, a popular
on the menu, particularly the dish, consists of fermented
seafood curries from Kerala and Andhra Pradesh and the rice pancakes served with a
delicious biryanis and wide range of kebabs from Hyderabad. vegetable or chicken stew.






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INTRODUCING SOUTH INDIA  559



variation of the dosa, made
with lentils and rice), dhapalam
(a vegetable curry) and pachidi
(a curd-based relish).
In contrast is the cuisine
of Hyderabad with its distinct
Muslim influences. Savoury
mutton or chicken biryanis are
accompanied by kebabs, lamb,
chicken or vegetable curries
(salans), vegetables and breads.
Some specialities include
pathar gosh (lamb cooked on
a stone), haleem (a pounded
Chinese fishing nets, an iconic sight in Fort Cochin, Kerala wheat and lamb dish eaten
during the fasting months
Tamilian food. A traditional meal Andhra Pradesh of Ramzan or Ramadan) and
includes all six to balance nutrition, The liberal use of red chilli and desserts such as shahi tukra
the appetite and digestion. The tamarind make Andhra food and kubani ka meetha, made
special flavour of the food comes one of the country’s spiciest. with dried apricots and cream.
from a combi nation of curry Rice and vegetables form the
leaves, ginger, coconut, garlic, basis of a meal. Some common ON THE MENU
coriander, asafetida, tamarind, dishes include pulihora (sour/
pepper, chillies, cloves, cumin, tamarind rice), pesarattu (a Aadu olathiayathu Fried cubes
cinnamon and cardamom. of lamb garnished with coconut
Meals consist of cooked rice and curry leaves.
served with an array of vegetable Meen varuval Masala fried fish
dishes, sambhar, rasam (watered from Chettinad, served with sliced
down version of sambar with onions and lime.
pepper, herbs and tomatoes) Sambhar A spicy lentil broth
and chutneys. Crisp poppadams with mixed vegetables, a must
or appalam (rice wafer) complete for all meals.
a meal. Desserts include the warm Tahari A rice-and-mincemeat
milky rice payasam or sweet pulao, a Hyderabad special.
pongal, also made from rice. Tamatar pappu A spicy tomato-
Non-Brahmin communities, and-lentil curry.
such as the Chettiars from Thengai saadham Coconut rice,
Chettinad, are meat eaters. Their seasoned with red chillies and
hot and spicy cuisine has several curry leaves.
interesting fish, mutton and Upma A savoury semolina
chicken dishes, of which pepper Street vegetable market in rural breakfast dish.
chicken is considered the best. Tamil Nadu
















Bagara baingan, whole Meen moilee, a speciality of Payasam is a creamy dessert
aubergines stuffed with spices, Kerala’s Christian community, made from rice and milk and
are Hyderabad’s most famous is a lightly spiced coconut garnished with cashew nuts
vegetarian dish. fish curry. and raisins.






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SOUTH INDIA  561

CHENNAI


Chennai, formerly known as Madras, is the state capital
of Tamil Nadu and the gateway to the rich and varied
culture of the South Indian peninsula. Originally a cluster
of fishing hamlets along the Coromandel Coast, the city
developed its cohesive shape under the British. Today,
it is South India’s commercial and cultural capital, and
the fourth-largest metropolis in India.

A modern capital, with the appearance its Kapaleeshwarar Temple, along with
of a gracious garden city, Chennai was the Parthasarathi Temple at Triplicane,
once a group of villages set amidst palm- bear testimony to the city’s antiquity.
fringed paddy fields, until two English Colonial rule marked the beginning
East India Company merchants, Francis of the city’s growth as a major commercial
Day and Andrew Cogan, established a centre. Today, most of the large business
factory-cum-trading post here. Completed houses have their offices in George
on St George’s Day, 23 April 1640, this Town, while Fort St George is the
fortified settlement came to be known power centre of the Tamil Nadu state
as Fort St George. Outside its walls was government. Extending across 174 sq km
George Town, the so-called “native town”, (67 sq miles), Chennai today is a dynamic
whose crowded lanes, each devoted to mix of the old and the new, its stately
a particular trade, serviced the British colonial structures juxtaposed with
colonists. Colonial rule linked the various modern high-rises. Its rich cultural
villages, including the settlement founded heritage of Tamil literature, music and
in the 16th century by the Portuguese at dance is perpetuated in universities
San Thomé, the sacred site associated with and performing arts centres. It is also
St Thomas the Apostle. Several centuries a highly political city, as can be seen
before the Europeans arrived, the great from the many grandiose memorials
7th-century Pallava port was at Mylapore; to politicians that line Marina Beach.

























A busy street scene in front of an ancient Hindu temple
The distinctive towering steeple of St Andrew’s Kirk



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562  SOUTH INDIA

Exploring Chennai

A conglomeration of several overgrown villages, Chennai D ECASTOR'S BASIN BRIDGE ROAD OLD JAIL S
ROAD
has no single centre, but can be divided into a numerous PULIYANTHOPE HIGH RD XAVIER STREET PORTUGUESE CHURCH ST PRAKASA M ROAD
urban districts, connected by four main roads. George BASIN BRIDGE ROAD MINT STREET CORALMERCHANT ST T
POWDER MILLS RD
Town is to the northeast of Periyar EVR High Road DMELLOW'S ROAD Mannadi RAJAJI SALAI (NORTH BEACH RD)
(Poonamallee High Road), while Triplicane and Mylapore V O C ROAD (WALL TAX ROAD) Chennai
Beach
A P RD
are to the south. The city’s main thoroughfare, Anna Salai ASTABUJAM ROAD AUDIAPPA NAICKEN ST ARMENIAN ST
(Mount Road), links Fort St George with Mount St Thomas, AVADANAM P RD ROAD MY LADYE'S High Court
GARDEN
to the south. Chennai’s other main roads, Rajaji Salai R I THERD O N R OAD HUNTERS State Express N S C B ROAD Parry's
Corner
High
(North Beach Road) and Kamarajar Salai (South Beach VA PERY PEOPLE'S MINT STREET Bus Depot Court Lighthouse
PARK
Road), run along the seafront, along the popular Marina EVK SAMPATH RD HIGH ROAD Central FRASER B RIDGE RD MUTHUSW A MY IYER RD
promenade towards Kalakshetra. Central Chennai
Egmore (POONAMALLEE HIGH RD) Park Fort
PERIYAR EVR HIGH Govt College Town (SOUTH BEACH ROAD)
of Arts and Crafts
Nehru Park
Kilpauk Egmore Chintadripet PALLAVAN SALAI SERVICES PARADE FLAG STAFF RD
GROUND &
Chetpet HALLS ROAD ARUNACHALA NAICKEN ST GOLF COURSE
Gymkhana
MAYOR RAMANATHAN SALAI CASA MAJORS PANTHEON RUKMANI LAKSHMIPATHY RD ROAD AUDITHANAR RD SWAMI SIVANAND A RD War Memorial
Club
Government
Estate
ROAD
Cooum (Kuvam)
Rajaji Hall
HADDOW'S ROAD ETHIRAJ ROAD Church Wallajah Chepauk Chepauk PARK MGR
C O LLEGE ROAD Higgin- WA LLAJAH ROA ANNA
MCNICHOLS ROAD
Madras University
botham's
ANNA SALAI (MOUNT ROAD)
Senate House
Christ
Samadhi
Stadium
Spencer's
Mosque
Chepauk
Palace
An early morning scene at a flower shop at Parry’s Corner GREA MS LANE GREAMS ROA D Plaza Lic BHARATHI SALAI (PYCROFTS RD) VICTORIA HOSTEL ROAD D Presidency College
Tiruvellikeni
T NA GAR II ST
Sights at a Glance VILL A GE ROAD MA HATMA GANDHI ROAD Thousand Lights WHITES ROAD Amir JANI JHAN KHAN ROAD Parthasarathy KAMARAJAR SALAI MARINA
Temple
VENKATRANGAM PILLAI STREET
Mahal
D R NATESAN RD
Thousand
TIRUMALAI PILLAI RD SA LAI
M S IYER ST R C RD
Historic Buildings, Areas & M G R Lights Mosque PETE RS ROAD BEACH
Neighbourhoods AVVAI SHANMUGHAM SALAI V M STREET ANINE BESANT RD Triumph
St George's
of Labour
1 Fort St George NORTH USMAN ROAD HABIBULLAH ROAD Cathedral Vivekananda
2 George Town AG-DMS ST GEORGE'S CATHEDRAL RD House
(MOUNT R OAD ANNA SALAI
4 Egmore G N DR NAIR RD CHETTY ROAD Taj Lighthouse Queen Mary's
6 Anna Salai NORTH BOAG RD Connemara BINNY RD IYENGAR RD DR RADHAKRISHNA SALAI College
PANAGAL Lighthouse
8 Triplicane PARK S SRINIVASAN RD
0 Adyar SIR THEAGARAYA ROAD LLANGO SA LAI Church ROYAPETTAH HIGH RD Buckingham Canal KAMARAJAR SALAI
Luz
GA N ESAN SALAI
Churches & Holy Places S MUDALIAR RD ELDAM'S ROAD LUZ CH U RCH ROAD
Teynampet
3 St Andrew’s Kirk pp566–7 SOUTH USMAN ROAD VENKATNARAYANA ROAD CH AVELIE SIVAJI ELLAMMAN KOIL ST ALWARPET STREET ROAD CPR IYER ST NAGESWARARAO Tirumailai Kapaleshvara MYLAPORE BAZAR ROAD Basilica
PARK
K BHARATI DASAN RD
San Thomé
9 Mylapore & San Thomé BURKIT ROAD DR RANGACHARI ROAD Temple
SOUTH AVENUE
r Little Mount & Mount of SOUTH WEST BOAG RD Nandanam T T K CHITRAKULLAM ST
St Thomas CANAL BANK RD ST MA R Y'S ROAD R K MUTT ROAD
Walk P MUTHURAMALINGAM SALAI RA JA Madaveli MANDAVELI S TREET
Madras
7 A Walk along the ANNA SALAI Club
Marina pp572–3 COSMOPOLITAN BOAT CLUB AVENUE BOAT CLUB RD CANAL BANK RD S A NTHOME HIG H R OAD
GOLF COURSE
Adyar
Saidapet RANJIT ROAD PUGH'S ROAD ANNAMALAIPURAM II M A IN ROAD
Museums
CPR AMASWAMY RD
5 Government Greenways G REENWAYS ROAD QUIBBLE ISLAND
CEMETERY
Road
Museum Complex
Little Mount GANDHI MANDAPAM ROAD Chettinad
Parks & Gardens P KOVIL ST DR DURGABAI DESHMUK ROAD Palace
e Guindy National Park TALUK OFFICE ROAD Kotturpuram III CRESCENT ROAD sophical Adyar
Theo-
Entertainment IV MAIN ROAD Society GARDEN OF
q Kalakshetra SARDAR VALLABHAI PATEL ROAD (ELLIOT BEACH ROAD) BESANT AVENUE ROAD REMEMBRANCE ELLIOT’S
II MAIN ROAD
BEACH
w MGM Dizzee World
For hotels and restaurants in this region see p702 and p717
562-563_EW_India.indd 562 26/04/17 11:55 am

CHENNAI  563




BASIN BRIDGE ROAD MINT STREET Mannadi PRAKASA M ROAD CORALMERCHANT ST T 0 kilometres 1 1
D ECASTOR'S BASIN BRIDGE ROAD OLD JAIL S
ROAD POWDER MILLS RD XAVIER STREET PORTUGUESE CHURCH ST
RAJAJI SALAI (NORTH BEACH RD)
PULIYANTHOPE HIGH RD
0 miles
R I THERD O N R OAD HUNTERS PEOPLE'S State Express N S C B ROAD Lighthouse Key Sight
DMELLOW'S ROAD
Beach
A P RD
ASTABUJAM ROAD
MINT STREET
GARDEN
High Court
AVADANAM P RD ROAD MY LADYE'S V O C ROAD (WALL TAX ROAD) AUDIAPPA NAICKEN ST ARMENIAN ST Chennai
Parry's
Corner
High

Bus Depot
Court
PARK
VA PERY
HIGH ROAD
Central
Central
Chennai
National highway (Inset map)
Fort
Egmore EVK SAMPATH RD (POONAMALLEE HIGH RD) Park FRASER B RIDGE RD MUTHUSW A MY IYER RD Railroad
Major road (Inset map)
PERIYAR EVR HIGH Govt College Town (SOUTH BEACH ROAD)
of Arts and Crafts
Nehru Park
Kilpauk Egmore Chintadripet PALLAVAN SALAI SERVICES PARADE FLAG STAFF RD
GROUND &
Chetpet HALLS ROAD ARUNACHALA NAICKEN ST GOLF COURSE
Gymkhana
MAYOR RAMANATHAN SALAI CASA MAJORS PANTHEON RUKMANI LAKSHMIPATHY RD ROAD AUDITHANAR RD SWAMI SIVANAND A RD War Memorial
Club
Government
Estate
ROAD
Cooum (Kuvam)
Rajaji Hall
C O LLEGE ROAD Higgin- WA LLAJAH ROA ANNA
HADDOW'S ROAD GREA MS LANE GREAMS ROA D ETHIRAJ ROAD Church Wallajah Chepauk VICTORIA HOSTEL ROAD D Chepauk PARK MGR
MCNICHOLS ROAD
Madras University
botham's
ANNA SALAI (MOUNT ROAD)
Senate House
Christ
Samadhi
Stadium
Spencer's
Mosque
Chepauk
Plaza
Palace
Lic
KHAN ROAD
JANI JHAN
Tiruvellikeni
T NA GAR II ST Thousand Lights WHITES ROAD BHARATHI SALAI (PYCROFTS RD) KAMARAJAR SALAI Presidency College
Parthasarathy
Amir
Temple
VENKATRANGAM PILLAI STREET
Mahal
D R NATESAN RD
Thousand
MARINA
Lights Mosque PETE RS
BEACH
NORTH USMAN ROAD HABIBULLAH ROAD AG-DMS ST GEORGE'S CATHEDRAL RD V M STREET ANINE BESANT RD Triumph
ROAD
TIRUMALAI PILLAI RD SA LAI
VILL A GE ROAD MA HATMA GANDHI ROAD
M S IYER ST R C RD
M G R
DR NAIR RD CHETTY ROAD
St George's
of Labour
Cathedral
Vivekananda
House
AVVAI SHANMUGHAM SALAI
(MOUNT R OAD ANNA SALAI
Lighthouse
Taj
College
PANAGAL G N NORTH BOAG RD Connemara BINNY RD IYENGAR RD DR RADHAKRISHNA SALAI Queen Mary's
Lighthouse
PARK SIR THEAGARAYA ROAD ELDAM'S ROAD Church ROYAPETTAH HIGH RD Buckingham Canal KAMARAJAR SALAI Traffic on Anna Salai, Chennai’s main thoroughfare
S SRINIVASAN RD
Luz
SOUTH USMAN ROAD SOUTH WEST BOAG RD S MUDALIAR RD CH AVELIE SIVAJI ELLAMMAN KOIL ST ALWARPET STREET ROAD DR RANGACHARI ROAD Tirumailai Kapaleshvara MYLAPORE BAZAR ROAD Basilica Greater Chennai Athipattu
LLANGO SA LAI
GA N ESAN SALAI
Teynampet
CPR IYER ST
LUZ CH U RCH ROAD
NAGESWARARAO
PARK
K BHARATI DASAN RD
San Thomé
Temple
BURKIT ROAD
T T K
SOUTH AVENUE
Nandanam
Red
CHITRAKULLAM ST
VENKATNARAYANA ROAD
CANAL BANK RD
Hills
ST MA R Y'S ROAD
ANNA SALAI P MUTHURAMALINGAM SALAI RA JA Madaveli R K MUTT ROAD MANDAVELI S TREET Getting Around Ambathur NH5
Madras
BOAT CLUB RD
Club
COSMOPOLITAN
PUGH'S ROAD ANNAMALAIPURAM II M A IN ROAD
GOLF COURSE BOAT CLUB AVENUE CANAL BANK RD S A NTHOME HIG H R OAD Public buses, auto rickshaws
and private cars or taxis
Adyar
Saidapet RANJIT ROAD Greenways G REENWAYS ROAD QUIBBLE ISLAND are the most convenient NH4 NH205 Chennai
GANDHI MANDAPAM ROAD P KOVIL ST DR DURGABAI DESHMUK ROAD Chettinad Chennai’s Mass Rapid Transit Chennai NH45
means of getting around
CPR AMASWAMY RD
(above-ground) trains of
Little Mount Road CEMETERY within the city. The local Mangadu
Palace
System (MRTS) and the
Adyar
Kotturpuram
Theo-
Society
III CRESCENT ROAD
cover large sections of
IV MAIN ROAD
TALUK OFFICE ROAD
GARDEN OF
the city and its outskirts.
II MAIN ROAD sophical REMEMBRANCE ELLIOT’S suburban railway together Tambaram 0 kilometres 10
BEACH
BESANT AVENUE ROAD Private tour operators 0 miles 10
SARDAR VALLABHAI PATEL ROAD (ELLIOT BEACH ROAD)
run coach tours to most 8 km
sites of interest. Sozhanganallur
For keys to symbols see back flap
562-563_EW_India.indd 563 26/04/17 11:55 am

564  SOUTH INDIA


be among the oldest surviving
British constructions in India. The
45-m (148-ft) tall flagstaff was
erected by Governor Elihu Yale in
1687 to hoist the Union Jack for
the first time in India. Today, the
Indian tricolour flies in its stead.
Yale began his career as a clerk
with the East India Company and
later founded Yale University
in the USA.
Standing to the south of the
Legislature building is St Mary’s
Church, the oldest Anglican
church in Asia. It was built
between 1678 and 1680 by
Secretariat at Fort St George, the seat of Tamil Nadu’s government Streynsham Master, then the
governor of Madras. Memorials,
1 Fort St George in 1749. These ramparts form paintings, antique Bibles
an irregular pentagon, further (including one printed in 1660)
Bounded by North Beach Rd and
EVR Rd. Fort Museum: Tel (044) 2567 reinforced by a ring of earthen and silver are displayed in the
1127. Open Sat–Thu. Closed public walls that slope down to a moat church, and speak of its vibrant
hols. & surrounding the entire complex. history. Both Elihu Yale and
The drawbridges that once led Robert Clive were married in
Britain’s first bastion in India, to the Fort’s five main gates this church, and the three
the nucleus from which an have now been replaced by daughters of Job Charnock
empire grew, was established in a roads. Note that most buildings (see p271) were baptized here
banana grove owned by a farmer in the fort have restricted before the family moved to
called Madrasan. The official access; only St Mary’s Church Bengal. Arthur Wellesley, who
grant for the land, however, was and the Fort Museum are open later became the Duke of
given by Venkatadri Nayak, the to the public. Wellington and triumphed at
deputy of the Raja of Chandragiri The first building to be seen Waterloo, and Robert Clive,
(see p684). The first factory within on entering the Fort through both lived in Fort St George.
the fortified enclosure was the Sea Gate is the Neo-Classical Their residences, Wellesley House
completed on St George’s Day, Secretariat, which is today the and Clive House, still stand, albeit
23 April 1640, and named Fort seat of the government of in a somewhat dilapidated
St George. This was the East Tamil Nadu. Behind it lie the condition, across from the church.
India Company’s main settlement Legislative Council Chambers. To the north is the Parade
until 1772, when Calcutta, now With their handsome classical Ground, formerly Cornwallis
Kolkata, was declared the seat lines and façades embellished Square, which was laid out in
of the government. with gleaming black pillars, 1715. Magnificent parades and
The sloping ramparts, these impressive buildings rallies were held here. To its
with battlements for gun (erected 1694–1732) are said to east are ministerial offices, and
emplacement that can still be
seen today, were designed by
Bartholomew Robins in 1750, Plan of Fort St George
after the original walls were 0 metres 200
destroyed by the French army 0 yards 200

St George
Bastion
St George
Gate
Wallajah
Bastion King's
Barracks
Parade
Wellesley Clive Ground
House House Legislative
Council Chambers
St Mary's Church
Secretariat
Cornwallis Fort Museum
Cupola
Altar in St Mary’s Church with a painting of Gate Sea
Sea
the Last Supper Gate
For hotels and restaurants in this region see p702 and p717
564-565_EW_India.indd 564 26/04/17 11:48 am
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Date 12th July 2013
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CHENNAI  565


barracks for regiments. Near the (16 miles) out at sea. The
southeast corner of the Parade adjacent red-brick High
Ground is the Fort Museum, Court, designed by Robert
built in the 1780s. A treasure Chisholm in the Indo-
trove of colonial memorabilia, Saracenic style, with stained
the museum is housed in what glass and carved furniture,
was built to be the Public was opened in 1892, while
Exchange. It has paintings of the nearby General Post
British royalty, 18th-century Office with its archways
weaponry, emblems and other and square towers, is
relics from the British era. Among another fine Indo-
its prized possessions are a scale Saracenic building.
model of the Fort and a painting Parry’s Corner, at the
of King George III and Queen junction of NSC Bose Road
Charlotte. There are lithographs and Rajaji Salai, is named
on the second and third floors after Parry and Company.
that provide fascinating Founded by Thomas Parry
perspectives of old Madras General Post Office, George Town in 1790, it is the oldest
and other parts of South India. British mercantile company
Near the museum’s southern while its inhabitants called it still operating in Chennai. Dare
end, and overlooking its cannon, Chennapatnam, from where House, the present headquarters
is the Cornwallis Cupola, which Chennai gets it name. After the of this 200-year-old company,
originally stood in the Parade entire area was rebuilt 100 years now stands at the site.
Ground. It is the largest one later, it was renamed George The area’s longest street,
built to house the statue of the Town. During this period, most Mint Street, gets its name
governor-general, Lord Cornwallis, of the city’s commercial activity from the authorized mint that
which was sculpted in 1800. It was concentrated was set up here in
shows him accepting the two within this 5-sq-km 1841 to produce
young sons of Tipu Sultan (2-sq-mile) area. gold coins for
(see p521) as hostages. It still remains the British as
a busy hive of well as for various
activity with public local rulers. The
2 George Town institutions in mint buildings
the south, trade are now part of
Bounded by Rajaji Salai
(North Beach Rd) & NSC Bose Rd. and commercial the government
premises in the printing press.
In the 1640s, weavers and centre, and The 17th-century
dyers from Andhra Pradesh residential quarters Fruit vendors on the pavements houses lining
were settled in this enclave to in the north. of George Town George Town
manufacture cloth for the East The first feature were once the
India Company’s textile trade. of interest is the 38-m (125-ft) residences and business
The British referred to the high Lighthouse on Rajaji Salai, centres of Indian as well as
settlement as “Black Town”, whose beacon was visible 25 km Portuguese, Armenian and
other foreign traders.
Armenian Street is named
Robert Clive (1725–74) after the many Armenians
One of the most flamboyant who lived here, while Coral
personalities in the history of Merchant Street housed a
British India, Robert Clive was only small Jewish community that
19 when he began his career as a traded in corals.
clerk for the East India Company Today, each street in
at Fort St George. Soon tiring of George Town is dominated
paperwork, he became a soldier by a particular trade. Anderson
and fought many successful Street specializes in paper,
battles (see p56), including the grain merchants operate from
Carnatic Wars, which established Audiappa Naicken Street, while
the Company’s rule in South India. textile whole salers have their
Clive was given the stewardship warehouses on Govindappa
of Fort St George and later Naicken Street and Godown
become Governor of Bengal.
The wealth he amassed in India Street. Some roads, such as Kasi
led to his trial, in England, on Chetty Street and Narayanamudali
A portrait of Robert Clive by Nathaniel charges of corruption. Clive Street, are lined with shops
Dance (1773) committed suicide in 1774. selling fancy goods and
imported bric-a-brac.




564-565_EW_India.indd 565 26/04/17 11:48 am

566  SOUTH INDIA

3 St Andrew’s Kirk

A magnificent example of Neo-Classical architecture,
St Andrew’s Kirk was con secrated in 1821. Inspired
by St Martin-in-the-Fields in London, it was designed and
executed by Major Thomas de Havilland and Colonel James
Caldwell of the Madras Engineers, at a cost of £20,000. The
body of the church is a circle, with rectangular compartments
to the east and west. The circular part, 24.5 m (80 ft) in
diameter, is crowned by a shallow masonry dome coloured a
deep blue. This is painted with golden stars and supported by
16 fluted pillars with Corinthian capitals.




St Andrew’s Kirk with its towering steeple
and Ionic columns
. Dome
An architectural marvel, the dome has a framework of
brick supported by an annular arch and is filled in by
pottery cones. Its blue interior is formed by crushed
sea shells mixed with lapis lazuli.





















Stained glass
The stained-glass windows
above the altar, in warm, rich
colours, are among the glories
of the church.
KEY
1 Mahogany Pews and a pulpit 3 The steeple is 50 m (164 ft)
furnish the interior. From 1839, the high, 4 m (13 ft) taller than its
pews were let out to prominent inspiration, St Martin-in-the-Fields
citizens; the brass fittings that in London. On top of the slim
once held their name cards can pyramidal spire is a distinctive
still be seen. bronze weathercock.
2 Sixteen fluted Corinthian 4 A double colonnade of
columns support the dome, lending 12 polished Ionic columns is
beauty and balance to the design. surmounted by a pediment.


For hotels and restaurants in this region see p702 and p717


566-567_EW_India.indd 566 26/04/17 11:48 am
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Date 24th April 2013
Size 125mm x 217mm

CHENNAI  567


VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
Practical Information
Egmore.
Tel (044) 2561 2608.
Open daily. 5 7am, 9am & 6pm
Sun. _ St Andrew’s Day (30 Nov).


The Wells of
St Andrew’s Kirk
Owing to sandy soil and a
site prone to flooding during
the monsoon, the church’s
foundations are actually a
series of wells sunk to depths
ranging from 4 m to 15 m
(13 ft to 49 ft) below ground
level. This example of engineering
ingenuity is based on a structural
practice followed by most
indigenous buildings in the
area. The wells are constructed
either of specially made curved
bricks, or pottery cylinders.
These are placed in order to ensure
maximum compaction of the soil,
allowing the water to rise within
them and thus protecting the
main structure. The 150 wells
0 metres 10
were dug by a group of itinerant
0 yards 10 well-sinkers, the Mumvutties.

























. Pipe Organ
Entrance Dominating the altar is the
handsome pipe organ in
dull green and burnished gold.
Installed in 1883, this instrument
was built in Yorkshire, England.




566-567_EW_India.indd 567 26/04/17 11:48 am

568  SOUTH INDIA
















Egmore Railway Station, one of the city’s major landmarks
4 Egmore constructed in Indo-Saracenic 5 Government
style, with unconventional Museum Complex
Bounded by Periyar EVR High Rd &
Pantheon Rd. n Egmore Railway flattish domes and pointed Pantheon Rd. Tel (044) 2819 3778.
Station, (044) 2819 4579. arches. The station, opera tional Open Sat–Thu. Closed public hols.
since the early 20th century,
The entire area south of Periyar connects Chennai with the & 8 Connemara Public Library:
EVR High Road (earlier known rest of Tamil Nadu Tel (044) 2819 3751. Open daily.
Closed public hols.
as Poonam allee High Road) and and the south.
the curve of the Cooum river Today Egmore This complex of cultural
is known as Egmore. This was is the up-market institutions used to
originally a small village that the commercial heart of house the Public
East India Company acquired Chennai, a concrete Assembly Rooms in
in the late 17th century, as it jungle of offices, the 18th century.
began to expand its territories. department stores, At the time, its spacious
Egmore was also one of the boutiques and hotels. tree-lined grounds
earliest residential localities, On Pantheon Road were the venue for all
where wealthy Company are the largest public entertainment
merchants built palatial homes showrooms of in the city. The Indo-
surrounded by luxuriant Co-Optex (see p578), Standing Buddhas Saracenic Government
gardens – the so-called “garden a unit of the Tamil from Amravati Museum, with its
houses” that were extremely Nadu Handloom faded red walls and
popular in colonial Chennai. Textiles Cooperative, which labyrinth of staircases and
The Government College sells handwoven silk and cotton interconnecting galleries,
of Arts and Crafts, founded in saris and fabrics from the state. spreads over five sections, each
1850, stands on EVK Sampath
Salai. This striking Gothic
building and its art gallery
were built by Robert Fellowes
Chisholm (see p573), who
was also appointed its
superintendent (principal) in
1877. Its first Indian principal, 1 2 MUSEUM
THEATRE
Debi Prasad Roy Chowdhary,
was a renowned painter and H A L L S R O A D
sculptor in the 1950s. The
artists’ village at Cholamandal 3 4
(see p582) was established
by his successor, Dr KCS PA N T H E O N R O A D
Panicker. Today the presti gious 5
Government College is one Plan of the Government
of India’s foremost art schools. Museum Complex
Its gallery puts on regular 1 Main Building 6
exhibitions of contemporary 2 Front Building
painting and sculpture by 3 Bronze Gallery
artists and students. 4 Connemara Public Library
To its west is the Egmore 5 Children’s Museum 7
Railway Station, another of 6 National Art Gallery
Chisholm’s architectural gems. 7 Contemporary Art Gallery
This is a handsome building,
For hotels and restaurants in this region see p702 and p717


568-569_EW_India.indd 568 26/04/17 11:48 am
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Date 12th July 2013
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CHENNAI  569


joined together to form a
holistic entity. Bronzes of other
gods and goddesses in the
Hindu pantheon, include Rama,
Sita and Ganesha. The panorama
of images also includes various
Buddhist bronzes from
Amravati, a Chola Tara and
Maitreya Avalokitesvara, and
11th-century images of various
Jain tirthankaras.
Opposite is the imposing
Connemara Public Library,
inaugurated in 1896. This
structure, with its profuse
Façade of the National Art Gallery, built in Neo-Mughal style stucco decoration, woodwork
and stained-glass windows, was
with a specific collection of by Bruce Foote. The Zoological named after a dissolute brother
objects. The 30,000-odd Section, in the main building, is of the viceroy, Lord Mayo. It is
exhibits range from rocks and one of the largest sections of the one of India’s four national
fossils to books and sculptures. Museum. Although its scope is libraries and contains every book
The Archaeological Section, in limited to South Indian fauna, published in the country. Its
the main building, is noted for its a few non-indigenous animals oldest and most prized posses-
exceptional collection of South and birds, such as the macaw, sion is a Bible, dated 1608.
Indian antiquities. The exhibits mandarin duck and golden The National Art Gallery
include stone and metal pheasant, have been added (closed for renovation) is perhaps
sculpture, woodcarvings to enrich the collection. There the finest building in the
and manuscripts. Its rare is also an 18.5-m (61-ft) long complex. Designed by Henry
collection of Buddhist whale skeleton on display. Irwin, one of the city’s most
antiquities numbers over The adjoining 19th-century celebrated architects, it was
1,500 pieces. A major Museum Theatre, a semi- constructed in 1909 in Neo-
section comprises artifacts circular structure also built Mughal style with a pink
from Amravati (see p679), in Indo-Saracenic style, sandstone finish. Its immense
that were brought here in was initially used as a door echoes the monumental
the early 1800s by an lecture hall. It is now gateways of Fatehpur Sikri
intrepid Englishman, used as a venue for (see pp184–7). The collection
Colonel Colin Mackenzie. public performances. includes more Chola bronzes,
On display are sculptural Some of the finest including two fine images of
reliefs, panels and free- examples of South Rama and Sita, and a superb
standing statues. Parvati, 9th century, Indian bronze casting 11th-century Nataraja.
Objects include a Chola period are on display in the Nearby, the Contemporary
2nd-century votive slab Bronze Gallery. Its Art Gallery has a collection of
with a rendering of a stupa, and superb collection of almost 700 contemporary Indian art, with
numerous stone panels with bronzes, specif ically from the works by renowned South Indian
episodes from the Buddha’s life Pallava and Chola periods artists, among them Raja Ravi
depicted in low relief. (between the 9th and 13th Varma (see p630). Works from the
The Numismatics Section centuries) have been retrieved National Art Gallery are also on
has a large collection of coins, from temples and display here during its renovation.
particularly South Indian and sites in the region.
Mughal ones. There are also There are also
some gold Gupta coins with many impressive
Sanskrit inscriptions. sculptures of the
The Government Museum Nataraja – the
was one of the earliest institutions depiction of Shiva
in India where ethnology and performing his
prehistoric archaeology were cosmic dance of
represented as museum subjects. creation (see p570).
The Anthropology Section, Another outstanding
in the front building, has a piece is an 11th-
good collection of prehistoric century Chola
antiquities, including cooking Ardhanarisvara, a
utensils and hunting tools, composite figure
among them the first palaeolith with Shiva and
in India, discovered in 1863 his consort Parvati A 2nd-century stupa panel from Amravati




568-569_EW_India.indd 569 26/04/17 11:48 am

570  SOUTH INDIA


Shiva, the Cosmic Dancer

Bronze sculptures depicting gods and goddesses are the glory of South Indian art.
Strict iconographic guidelines determine the proportions of each image and the
symbolic meaning of every stance, hand gesture, weapon and adornment. Master
sculptors working within these rules were able, nevertheless, to create images of
extraordinary individuality, power and grace. Among the most remarkable bronze
sculptures are those of Shiva as Nataraja, the Cosmic Dancer, and his wife Parvati.
Richly symbolic in their iconography, they were made during the Chola period,
from the 9th to the 13th centuries.
Nataraja
The Nataraja figure of Shiva as the Cosmic Dancer symbolizes A tiny crescent moon, a
nature’s cycle of evolution and transmutation, and displays the symbol of the passage of
Chola artists’ mastery of form and expression. time, balances in his hair.
The fire in the left
Goddess Ganga is hand symbolizes
shown among Shiva’s destruction.
flying locks, since it was
Shiva who eased her
descent to earth
(see p167).
The drum in
his right hand
symbolizes the
rhythm of creation.
An open palm
grants freedom
from fear.
The left palm
pointing to the foot
symbolizes salvation
from ignorance.
The left leg is lifted
up in an animated
dance movement.
The ring of flames
symbolizes the cosmos.



The right leg
tramples Apasmara,
a dwarfish figure,
who stands
for ignorance.
Bronze images
representing the main
temple deity are taken
out in processions on
The marriage of Shiva and Parvati festive occasions.
is a beautiful example of Chola art. It These images
shows Shiva, standing regal and tall, are clad in silk and
tenderly holding his bashful bride’s decked with
hand. Vishnu, as the brother of sandalwood paste
Parvati, is shown as an onlooker. and floral garlands.
See also features on Hindu Mythology (see pp28–9), Ganesha (see p471) and Vishnu (see p683)



570-571_EW_India.indd 570 26/04/17 11:48 am
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CHENNAI  571


Anna Salai then enters its
commercial stretch. Along this
length of the road are some
of the city’s oldest commercial
landmarks, including one
of India’s largest bookshops,
Higginbotham’s (see p578),
Spencer’s, an international
department store, and the
Taj Connemara, one of
the city’s finest hotels.
Nearby but further down
is the 19th-century Thousand
Lights Mosque, which gets
its name from the tradition
of lighting 1,000 oil lamps to
Multi-arched façade of the Thousand Lights Mosque illuminate the Assembly Hall
that once occupied the site.
6 Anna Salai prestigious Gymkhana Club. Standing further south is
Sited close to the army head- St George’s Cathedral, planned
From Cooum Island to Little Mount.
Rajaji Hall: Tel (044) 2536 5635. quarters, this was an exclusive by James Lillyman Caldwell and
Open daily. facility for military officers. Until built by Thomas de Havilland in
1920, its membership was 1814. Its distinctive 42 m (138 ft)
A long arterial road leading from restricted to garrison officers tall spire is one of Chennai’s
north Chennai to Little Mount only, and, even today, the major landmarks.
at its southern end (see p577), club grounds belong to the
Anna Salai (or Mount Road) is armed services.
the city’s main thoroughfare. The The Old Government Estate,
“garden houses” that belonged southwest of the Gymkhana
to Chennai’s elite stood on Club, houses the mansion where
either side of it until well into the governors of Madras once
the early years of the 20th lived in regal splendour. Though
century. Today, it is a modern the main building is falling apart,
commercial road, lined with its banqueting hall, built in 1802
hoardings depicting film stars, by the second Lord Clive, the
and the expansive homes of eldest son of Robert Clive, retains
the past have been replaced its grandeur. It was named Rajaji
by multistoreyed buildings. Hall after the first Indian governor-
Anna Salai begins on an island general, C Rajagopalachari,
in Cooum Creek, just south popularly known as Rajaji.
of Fort St George. The site is Inside this elegant Neo-
watched over by the statue of Classical building, an impressive
Sir Thomas Munro, the governor broad staircase leads up to
of the Madras Presidency from the vast banqueting hall,
1819 to 1827. Nearby, set in an which has beautiful panelling Main altar in St George’s Cathedral, built
expanse of greenery, is the and chandeliers. in the early 19th century
Film Stars and Politics
The South Indian film industry, particularly Tamil and Telugu
cinema, is credited with having been the breeding ground of many
politicians. The first chief minister from the Dravidian Party (then
called DMK), the late Dr CN Annadurai, as well as his immediate
successor, M Karunanidhi, were both scriptwriters with large
followings. However, the most remarkable actor-turned-politican
was Maruthur Gopalan Ramachandran, whose portrayal of a
swashbuckling hero made him the embodiment of righteousness.
Popularly known as MGR, he acquired a cult status in the region and
was chief minister of Tamil Nadu from 1977 to 1987. His co-star
and protégée, Jayalalitha, another charismatic chief minister, was
ousted on charges of corruption in 2001, but was reinstated later
that year. Current heroes, such as Rajnikant and Kamal Haasan, have
Hoardings depicting popular South more macho images that depend heavily on daredevil stunts. They,
Indian heroes too, have fans throughout South India.

For hotels and restaurants in this region see p702 and p717


570-571_EW_India.indd 571 26/04/17 11:48 am

572  SOUTH INDIA

7 A Walk along the Marina structure, on Wallajah Road, was Fort
once the home of the Nawab of St George
Chennai’s seashore hosts one of India’s largest urban beaches, Arcot. Though the palace was THE ISLAND
stretching for 13 km (8 miles) along the city’s eastern flank. built in 1768, Chisholm added
The Marina, connecting Fort St George with San Thomé the extensions, including the
Basilica almost 5 km (3 miles) away, was built by Mounstuart tower that once connected
the two wings. It now houses
Elphinstone Grant-Duff, the governor between 1881 and government offices. Chepauk
1886. Described by architectural historian Philip Davies as Stadium, Chennai’s famous cricket SWAMI SIVANANDA ROAD
“one of the most beautiful marine promenades in the world”, ground, lies behind the palace. Cooum (Kuvam)
it is a favourite place for Chennai’s citizens to escape the Further down the road is
humid heat of the city and enjoy the sea breezes. The walk Presidency College 7, the first
institution in South India for
along Kamarajar Salai (earlier known as South Beach Road) higher education, founded in
takes in parks, tree-lined cobbled streets and spectacular 1840. This rather austere structure WALLAJAH ROAD ANNA
PARK
colonial and Indo-Saracenic buildings. has a ribbed dome with four Chepauk
clocks on its surface. Among the BABU JAGAJEEVANRAM ROAD
CHIDAMBARM
famous alumni of the college are STADIUM
KAMARAJAR SALAI ( SOUTH BEACH ROAD)
the first Indian governor-general,
C Rajagopalachari, and the
Nobel Prize-winning physicists,
CV Raman and his nephew,
S Chandrasekhar.
South Marina
Further south, an BHARATHI SALAI
impressive landmark on
Kamarajar Salai is the VENKATRANGAM STREET PILLAI STREET VICTORIA HOSTEL ROAD
Tiruvellikeni
statue Triumph of
Labour 8. SINGARACHARI STREET WENLOCK
PARK
The Indo-Saracenic Presidency College, nucleus of Madras University CAR STREET
Anna Park the beach, attract ing tourists
The walk starts from the from the rest of the state. Bay of
Bengal
Victory War Memorial 1, Particularly interesting is the M a r i n a P r o m e n a d e a n d B e a c h
which marks the north end of Sunday market, with its curious
Kamarajar Salai. This memo rial jumble of goods.
originally commemorated the I GRAMANI STREET G LALA ST
victory of the Allied armies North Marina
during World War I, and was Across Kamarajar Salai is a series
later dedicated to the memory of imposing red-brick buildings,
ANNIE BESANT ROAD
of those soldiers from the built in a combi nation of
Madras Presidency who lost architectural styles, which
their lives in World War II. To include Indian and Moorish
its south, in Anna Park, is the features. The Indo-Saracenic VENKATRANGAM PILLAI STREET
Anna Samadhi 2, a memorial Madras University 4 was
erected in honour of CN founded in 1857, making it DR NATES AN R OA D AVVAI SHANMUGHAM SALAI
Annadurai, the former one of the oldest
chief min ister of Tamil universities in India.
Nadu, who introduced An architectural
significant political and marvel, the Senate Lighthouse
social reforms in the House 5 was B uckingham Canal
state. Further south is designed by Robert RADHAKRISHNAN SALAI
the MGR Samadhi 3, Chisholm in a
a commemorative harmonized blend
garden with gate ways of Byzantine and
and pathways, built Saracenic styles.
in honour of the Victory War Memo rial, This became the
popular Tamil film Kamarajar Salai headquarters of
icon and chief Madras University in KARANEESWARAR PAGODA STREET
minister, MG Ramachandran 1879. These buildings now stand
(see p571). An array of souvenir in what was once the sprawling
shops and eateries can be estate of the old Chepauk Palace San Thomé
found along this stretch of 6. This splendid Indo-Saracenic Basilica
For hotels and restaurants in this region see p702 and p717

572-573_EW_India.indd 572 26/04/17 11:48 am
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CHENNAI  573


Fort
St George
THE ISLAND






SWAMI SIVANANDA ROAD
Cooum (Kuvam)
A busy evening scene on the
BABU JAGAJEEVANRAM ROAD STADIUM PARK Key Suggested route This sculpture was created by
Marina Beach
ANNA
WALLAJAH ROAD
Chepauk
Debi Prasad Roy Chowdhary
CHIDAMBARM
VENKATRANGAM STREET PILLAI STREET VICTORIA HOSTEL ROAD Tips for Walkers Annie Besant Road, is the Ice
(see p568), who became the
KAMARAJAR SALAI ( SOUTH BEACH ROAD)
first Indian principal of
the Madras School of Arts

and Crafts in 1929.
West of the main road, off
House 9, formerly a women’s
hostel known as Vivekananda
House. In the 1840s, this
circular building, with a stone
Starting point: Victory War
BHARATHI SALAI
pineapple perched on its roof,
Memorial. Length: 5 km (3 miles).
Tiruvellikeni
was a storehouse for ice, which
Getting there: MRTS train station
CAR STREET WENLOCK Bay of (Fort), bus or taxi. Stopping-off was imported all the way from
PARK
points: A range of eateries and
New England (USA). It was also
SINGARACHARI STREET
the site from which Swami
cafés line the beachfront.
Vivekananda (see p619)
delivered his speeches, when
Bengal
I GRAMANI STREET G LALA ST M a r i n a P r o m e n a d e a n d B e a c h he visited the city. It has now
been handed over to the
Ramakrishna Mission, which
has plans to restore it. Further
south is Queen Mary’s College
0, today the Madras College
ANNIE BESANT ROAD
for Women. Opened in July
1914, this was Chennai’s first
VENKATRANGAM PILLAI STREET
DR NATES AN R OA D AVVAI SHANMUGHAM SALAI Robert Chisholm’s Legacy entrance of the building.
women’s college. A bust of
the queen still graces the
An imposing lighthouse q
marks the southern end of
the Marina.
Triumph of Labour by Debi Prasad Roy Chowdhary, 1959
B uckingham Canal
Lighthouse
Robert Fellowes Chisholm (1840–1915) was among the most
talented architects in India in the mid-19th century. In 1864,
RADHAKRISHNAN SALAI
Chisholm’s designs for the proposed Presidency College and
Senate House won a competition, and he was appointed the
consulting architect to the Madras government. The next
15 years saw considerable building activity along the Marina,
where many innovative buildings were erected. Chisholm’s
designs blended Italian and Saracenic features, so that the
new structures would harmonize with the existing Chepauk
Palace. For many years he was the head of the School of
Industrial Art, founded in 1855 and now known as the Senate House, Robert Chisholm’s signature
Government College of Fine Arts.
San Thomé building, completed in 1873
KARANEESWARAR PAGODA STREET
Basilica
For keys to symbols see back flap
572-573_EW_India.indd 573 04/05/17 3:23 pm

574  SOUTH INDIA


9 Mylapore &
San Thomé
S of Triplicane. Kapaleswarar Temple:
Open daily. Basilica of San Thomé:
Open daily. Luz Church: Open daily.
The site of a great Pallava port
in the 7th and 8th centuries,
Mylapore is today one of the
busiest parts of the city. This
traditional quarter, with its
religious organizations, tiny
houses and lively bazaars,
is dominated by the
Kapaleswarar Temple, the
Fruits on sale at Triplicane Market largest in Chennai. The main
deity, Shiva, is symbolized
8 Triplicane once part of the kingdom as a peacock (mayil), thus giving
of Golconda (see pp670–71), the area its original name,
Off Kamarajar Salai (South Beach Rd).
Parthasarathi Temple: Open daily. and as a result this quarter has Mayilapura, the “Town of the
_ Neeratu Utsavam (Dec). the largest concentration of Peacocks”. According to legend,
Muslims in the city. The Nawab Shiva’s consort, Parvati, assumed
The crowded suburb of of Arcot, Muhammad Ali the form of a peahen to worship
Triplicane was among the first Wallajah (r.1749–95), an ally Shiva, represented here by his
villages to be acquired by the of the British in their struggle linga. A sculptural panel in a
East India Company in the for power against the French, small shrine in the courtyard
1670s. It derives its name from contributed depicts the legend.
the sacred lily tank (tiru-alli- generously to the The pre sent temple
keni) that once stood here. One construction of a was built after the
of the oldest temples in the large mosque here original was
city, the his toric Parthasarathi in 1795. Known destroyed by the
Temple, is situated in Triplicane. as the Wallajah Portuguese during
Built in the 9th century, the (Big) Mosque, the 16th century.
temple is dedicated to Krishna this beautiful grey Mylapore’s links
(or Partha) in his role as Arjuna’s granite structure with Christianity
divine charioteer (sarathi) in with slender date to the 1st
the epic, the Mahabharata minarets is situated century AD, to the
(see p30). The temple festival, in on Triplicane High time of St Thomas
December, attracts thousands Road. The adjoining (see p577). In the
of devotees. At one time, the graveyard contains 10th century, a
residences of the priestly the tombs of The Gothic-style Basilica group of Nestorian
Brahmin caste were clustered various Muslim of San Thomé Christians from
in the narrow lanes around the saints. The nawab’s Persia (Iran)
temple. Among them were descendants still live in discovered the saint’s burial site
the homes of the mathematical Triplicane, in a stately and built a church and tomb.
genius, Srinivasa Ramanujan mansion known as Amir The Portuguese, following the
(1887–1920), and the early Mahal. Constructed in 1798, trail of the saint, established
20th-century nationalist it became their residence after the settlement of San Thomé
poet, Subramania Bharati the Chepauk Palace (see p572) in the early 16th century. The
(1882–1921). Triplicane was was taken over by the British. present Basilica of San Thomé,
over the tomb of the saint, is an
impressive Gothic-style structure
built in 1898. It has an ornate
interior with magnificent
stained-glass windows and a
towering steeple. The crypt
is said to contain a small bone
from the saint’s hand and the
weapon that killed him.
Nearby is the Luz Church,
which was built by a Franciscan
monk in 1516, making it the
Graceful façade of Wallajah Mosque, with its flanking minarets oldest Catholic church in Chennai.
For hotels and restaurants in this region see p702 and p717


574-575_EW_India.indd 574 26/04/17 11:48 am
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CHENNAI  575

0 Adyar
S of San Thomé, across Adyar river.
Theosophical Society: Tel (044) 2491
2474. Open 8:30–10am & 2–4pm
Mon–Fri & Sat am. Brodie Castle:
Open daily.
Few places in Chennai
offer greater serenity than
the sprawling gardens of the
Theosophical Society, situated
in the city’s Adyar neighbour­
hood, on the banks of the Adyar
river. Founded in New York in
1875, the Society moved here
seven years later, when it
acquired Huddlestone Gardens.
Built in 1776 by John Huddlestone, The 400-year-old banyan tree in the gardens of the Theosophical Society
a wealthy civilian, this large
mansion is today the world various faiths. The greatest airy houses with broad pillared
headquarters of the Society. Its attraction here, however, is the verandahs, set in sprawling
magnificent 108­ha (268­acre) 400­year­old banyan tree, whose wooded gardens, were
estate comprises several spreading branches cover an characteristic of colonial Chennai.
19th­century buildings, one of immense area of 4,180 sq m This house later became the
which is the former home of its (44,993 sq ft). Over the decades, home of the first Chief Justice
founder Colonel Henry S Olcott. many of the Society’s meetings of the Madras High Court.
The main building houses and spiritual discourses were Further north of Brodie Castle
the Great Hall, almost spartan held under its canopy. is the Madras Club, built by
in its simplicity, where prayer Unfortunately, a terrible storm George Moubray, who came to
meetings are held. Bas­reliefs, in 1989 destroyed its main trunk. India as an accountant in 1771.
representing the different faiths, Brodie Castle, north of the He acquired 42 ha (104 acres) of
and engravings of verses taken Theosophical Society, is an land on the banks of the Adyar,
from the holy books of all world imposing white structure on and built a house with a central
religions can be seen here. the banks of the Adyar. Now cupola, surrounded by a
There are also marble statues known as Thenral, it houses the beautiful garden. Known as
of the founders, Colonel Olcott prestigious College of Carnatic Moubray’s Cupola, this was
and Helena Petrovna Blavatsky, Music. Built in 1796 by James once the exclusive preserve of
as well as one of Annie Besant, Brodie, an employee of the East the city’s European population.
who became president in 1907. India Company, it is said to be Indians were only allowed
The Adyar Library and among the first “garden­houses” membership in 1964, after it
Research Centre, founded by built in the city. These spacious, merged with the Adyar Club.
Olcott in 1886, is one of the
finest libraries in India. Its
collection of 165,000 books The Theosophical Society
and 20,000 palm­leaf and In the 1870s, Colonel Henry S Olcott, a veteran of the American
parchment manuscripts has Civil War, met the Russian aristocrat and clairvoyant, Madame
made it a valuable repository Helena Petrovna Blavatsky in Vermont (USA) at the farm of the
for Indological research. The Christian Scientist,
surrounding tranquil gardens Mary Baker Eddy. Soon
have shrines dedicated to after, they launched a
movement to foster
the spirit of universal
brotherhood, aiming to
create a Utopian society,
in which people of all
castes, creeds and colour
could live in harmony. The Theosophical Society
movement attracted great
thinkers and intellectuals, among them Dr Annie Besant, president
of the Indian National Congress in 1917. The idea of forming a
national political party was, in fact, first voiced in the 1890s at
the Society’s headquarters in Adyar, under the banyan tree, by
the British civil servant AO Hume. The famous philosopher
Pillared entrance of Brodie Jiddu Krishnamurti was also associated with the Society.
Castle in Adyar




574-575_EW_India.indd 575 26/04/17 11:48 am

576  SOUTH INDIA

e Guindy
National Park
S Chennai. Sardar Vallabhbhai
Patel Rd. £ Guindy station. @
Tel (044) 2432 1139 (wildlife warden).
Open Wed–Mon (Snake Park and
Children’s Park only). & Raj Bhavan:
Closed to public.
Once a distant suburb, which
was nearly twice its current size,
Guindy has now been engulfed
by the fast-growing metropolis
of Greater Chennai. Originally
A Bharat Natyam dance lesson in progress at Kalakshetra part of the private forest
surrounding Guindy Lodge, a
q Kalakshetra were trained here. At the end portion was officially declared
of each year, a festival is held the Guindy National Park in
Thiruvanmiyur, East Coast Rd.
@ or taxi. Tel (044) 2452 0836. and performances are staged 1977. This predominantly dry
Open 8:30–11:30am Mon–Sat. in an auditorium designed deciduous scrub jungle of acacia
Closed college hols. _ Kalakshetra like a koothambalam, the is interspersed with larger trees
Arts Festival (Dec/Jan). traditional theatre of Kerala such as sandalwood (Sant alam
temples (see p643). album), banyan (Ficus bengalensis)
This pioneering institution and jamun (Syzygium cumini). Its
for classical dance, music and most famous residents are the
the fine arts, established in w MGM Dizzee herds of endangered blackbuck
1936, was the brainchild of World (Antelope cervica pra), introduced
Rukmini Devi. A protégée of in 1924. Among its 130 species
Annie Besant, she was deeply East Coast Road, Muttukadu. of birds are raptors such as the
influenced by the progressive Tel (044) 2747 2129. @ honey buzzard and the white-
views of the Theosophical Open 10:30am–6:30pm Mon–Fri, bellied sea eagle. Winter is the
Society (see p575). At 16, she 10:30am–7:30pm Sat, Sun & public best time for bird-watching,
hols. & ∑ mgmdizzeeworld.com
scandalized conservative society when migrant birds visit the
by marrying George Sydney Located on East Coast Road on forest. A Children’s Park and
Arundale, the 40-year-old the outskirts of Chennai, MGM play area at the northeast corner
Australian principal of the Dizzee World offers high- has a collection of animals and
Society’s school. The couple’s energy entertain ment for all birds. Also located within the
extensive travels exposed the family in a lush, green park is the Madras Snake Park,
Rukmini to the world of Western setting against the backdrop established in the 1970s by
culture, especially dance, of Muttukadu beach. As well Romulus Whitaker, the American
inspiring her to study ballet as exhilarating rides for various zoologist, who also set up the
under the great Russian ballerina age groups, the park features Crocodile Bank outside Chennai
Anna Pavlova. Back in Chennai, a water park with aqua slides (see p582). Today, the well-
she again defied tradition by and a wave pool, Marry World, maintained Snake Park houses
learning and performing the which caters for children, and numerous species of snakes,
classical dasi attam, hitherto the an amphi theatre, where among them king cobras, vipers
domain of devadasis (temple entertainment is staged. and pythons. Other reptiles
dancers). The International
Centre for the Arts, which she
set up for the revival of this
dance form, now called Bharat
Natyam, (see p33), is today
Kalakshetra, the “Temple of Art”.
The school is set in a vast
40-ha (99-acre) campus, where
classical music and dance
are taught according to the
traditional methods, by which
a guru imparts know ledge to a
small group of students. Some
of India’s best-known dancers,
including Yamini Krishnamurti,
and the institute’s current
director, Priyadarsini Govind, Group of chital deer crossing water
For hotels and restaurants in this region see p702 and p717


576-577_EW_India.indd 576 26/04/17 11:55 am

CHENNAI  577


include crocodiles, turtles and
lizards. Large information boards
provide interesting details on
the habitat and behaviour of the
various species. For those who
are interested, there are live
demonstrations of venom
extraction; the venom is used
as an antidote for snake bites.
The historic 300-year-old
Guindy Lodge, to the west of
the Park, is now the Raj Bhavan,
the residence of the governor of
Tamil Nadu. Built as a weekend
retreat for the city’s British rulers,
this handsome white building
was renovated and expanded Façade of the Church of Our Lady of Expectations, Mount of St Thomas
in the mid-1800s by the then
governor, Grant-Duff. r Little Mount powers. Legend claims that
Today, Guindy has some & Mount of the spring originated when
of the city’s most prestigious St Thomas struck the rock with
institutions. The area also has St Thomas his staff to provide water for
many impressive memorials SW Chennai. Near Marmalog Bridge. his thirsty congregation.
to modern India’s leaders, £ St Thomas Mount station. @ About 3 km (2 miles)
Mahatma Gandhi, K Kamaraj southwest of Little Mount is
and C Rajagopalachari. A rock-hewn cave on Little the 95-m (312-ft) high Mount
Mount is believed to be the of St Thomas or Great Mount.
place where, in AD 72, the A flight of 132 steps leads to the
mortally wounded St Thomas summit and the Church of Our
sought refuge. Near the modern Lady of Expectations, built
Church of Our Lady of Good by the Portuguese in the 16th
Health is the older Blessed century. The most important
Sacrament Chapel, built by the relic here is the ancient stone
Portuguese over the cave. Inside cross embedded into the wall
the cave is the opening through of the altar. Said to have been
which the fleeing saint is said to engraved by the saint himself,
have retreated, leaving behind this is the legendary “bleeding
a still visible imprint of his hand cross” that miraculously bled
near the entrance. At the rear between 1558 and 1704.
end of the cave is the Masonry Below the eastern flank of
Cross before which St Thomas the Mount is the Cantonment
is said to have prayed. By the area, with its shady streets
The Masonry Cross, engraved on a rock Church of the Resurrection is lined with 18th-century
in the cave, Little Mount a perennial spring with curative Neo-Classical bungalows.
St Thomas in India
According to legend, St Thomas or Doubting Thomas, one of the 12 apostles,
came to South India soon after Jesus Christ died. He is said to have arrived
in Cranganore (see p653) in AD 52 and spent the next 12 years along the
Malabar Coast, spreading the Gospel and converting the local population.
He gradually moved eastwards and finally settled in Mylapore (see p574). He
spent the last years of his life in a cave on Little Mount, from where he would
walk every day to the beach, resting for a while and preaching in the groves.
It is said that one day in AD 72, while praying on the Mount of St Thomas, he
was mortally wounded by a lance, and fled to Little Mount, where he died.
His body was carried by his converts to San Thomé, where he was buried in
the crypt of the small chapel he had built. This is today the Basilica of San
Thomé, and the large stained-glass window depicts his story. The Portuguese
colonized Mylapore in the early 16th century, lured by accounts left by
the 13th-century Venetian traveller, Marco Polo, who had visited the early
Nestorian chapel here. The saint holds a special place in the hearts of
Indians, and was decreed the Apostle of India in 1972. Portrait of St Thomas





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578  SOUTH INDIA

Shopping & Entertainment also sells handicrafts, though
in Chennai hand-embroidered linen and
nightwear are their main
specialities. Cane and Bamboo
As the capital of Tamil Nadu, Chennai has an excellent selection is another interesting little shop
of handicrafts and handwoven textiles from the state. From with an assortment of gift
shimmering silks in glowing colours and finely woven cottons to items and souvenirs.
jewellery and replicas of Chola bronzes, the choice is enormous. Apparao Galleries not
The city’s shopping centres include upmarket department only stocks paintings by
contemporary Indian artists,
stores, malls and trendy boutiques, as well as the vibrant local but also has an accessory shop
bazaars that sell a wide range of merchandise. Chennai is for gifts and home products.
also the cultural capital of South India, where performances Their boutique sells trendy
of classical dance and music take place throughout the year. designer-wear.
The height of the cultural season is from mid-December to mid- Naturally Auroville spe cializes
January, when the city hosts the prestigious Marghazhi Festival. in natural products made in
the Puducherry Ashram and
Auroville (see pp590–93). The
merchandise includes pottery,
Shops and Markets silverware and jewellery are handmade paper, perfumed
The best shopping in Chennai available at Sukhra and Amethyst. candles, incense sticks and
can be found in the more Genuine antiques are hard aroma therapy oils and lotions.
traditional areas, such as Panagal to find. However, Rani Arts & Chennai is also a good place
Park, Pondy and Burma bazaars, Teak stocks copies of old to shop for handcrafted musical
and the lanes around the temple artifacts, including brass and instruments, such as the violin,
at Mylapore. These were small metal images and objects, mridangam and veena. While
street markets that have now Tanjore (Thanjavur) paintings these are found at many outlets
grown into mini shopping malls, (see p601) and lacquerware. in the city, the best selections
where everything is available at are avail able at Musee Musicals
bargain prices. Chennai’s oldest Textiles and Saris and Sapthaswara Music Store.
department store, Spencer’s, The city also has a number of
partially burned down in the Tamil Nadu is renowned for excellent bookshops. Of these,
1980s, and has now been rebuilt the richness and variety of its the oldest and most well-
as a modern mall. It houses shops silk and cotton textiles, a good stocked is Higginbotham’s.
selling merchandise as varied selection of which is available in Established in 1844, it is
as groceries and imported Swiss Chennai. Radha Silks, Kumaran now a chain with more than
watches. Next door is the city’s Silks and Sundari Silks are 20 branches across the South
oldest landmark, VTI (Victoria famous all over India for their Indian states.
Technical Institute), where wonderful range of fabrics and
handi crafts and a range of silk saris from Kanchipuram Entertainment Guides,
good-quality linen are sold. This (see p587). Nalli’s, a huge
charitable organization supports multistoreyed shop, has the Tickets and Venues
South Indian Christian missions widest range of Kanchipuram Announcements of
that specialize in exquisite saris, and is always packed with performances of Carnatic
hand embroidery. local shoppers, particularly music (see p599) and classical
Most shops are open during the festival and wedding dance such as Bharat Natyam
Monday to Friday, from 9:30am seasons. Other outlets are Man (see p33), appear regularly in
to 7pm. Bazaars, however, keep Mandir and Shilpi, a small the entertainment columns
more flexible hours. boutique that sells saris and of local newspapers. The city
home furnishings. Fabindia too, guides Hallo! Madras and
stocks furnishings and ready- Chennai This Fortnight list
Jewellery and Antiques
made garments. A good variety entertainment venues and
The best place for high-quality of textiles can be found at information on tickets.
traditional South Indian gold Co-optex, the large Tamil Performances of music and
jewellery is Vummidi Bangaru Nadu Cooperative of Textiles dance are held throughout the
Jewellers. They also stock showroom. This pioneering year. However, the peak season
excellent reproductions of society has encouraged the is from 15 December to
the gem-encrusted costume revival of handlooms. 15 January, when the Chennai
jewellery worn by classical Festival, organized by the
dancers. Prince Jewellery, in Handicrafts and Gifts city’s sabhas (cultural societies),
Panagal Park, has jewellery takes place. During this period
from Kerala and also specializes A fine selection of handicrafts more than 500 concerts are
in lightweight gold ornaments. can be found at Poompuhar, the held. The most prestigious
Modern and traditional Tamil Nadu State Emporium. VTI cultural centre is the Music




578-579_EW_India.indd 578 26/04/17 11:48 am
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SHOPPING & ENTER T AINMENT IN CHENNAI  579

Cinema
Academy. Other venues are Rukmini Devi set up Kalakshetra
Narada Gana Sabha, Sri to popularize Bharat Natyam, The choice of films that
Krishna Gana Sabha and the dance form once performed show at Chennai’s many
Karthik Fine Arts. Classical only in temples. Today, these cinemas, such as Devi,
dance, music and theatre two institutions along with Ega and the Sathyam
performances are also held the many sabhas are the major Cineplex, ranges from
at the Museum Theatre in the sponsors of music and dance popular Bollywood and
Pantheon Complex (see pp568– events in the city. Tamil blockbusters to the
9) and the auditorium at During the season, music latest commercial Hollywood
Kalakshetra (see p576). lovers gather in Chennai to releases. Tamil films are very
hear India’s top performers as similar to those produced in
well as promising new talent. Mumbai’s Bollywood, with
Music and Dance Concerts of Carnatic music, song-and-dance sequences
Since the 1920s, Chennai has both vocal and instrumental, and a great deal of melodrama.
been the leading centre of begin in the morning and often But they play a role far beyond
Carnatic music and classical last till midnight. Dance recitals mere entertainment – their
dance. The first music festival are also held. Recently, some themes often have a social
took place in December 1927 dancers have experimented message, and their charismatic
during the Madras session of with the traditional repertoire actors, with their political
the Indian National Congress. to create a contemporary links (see p571), make them
A year later, the Music Academy form that is a fusion of Indian a potent medium of
was established to promote folk and classical forms with communication, especially
Carnatic music, and in 1936, Western themes. among rural audiences.
DIRECTORY
Jewellery and Fabindia Cane and Bamboo Karthik Fine Arts
Antiques Illford House, 3 Woods Rd, 20 C-in-C Rd, Ethiraj Lane. New 16, Bhimanna
off Anna Salai. Tel (044) 2821 1649. Garden St, Alwarpet.
Amethyst Tel (09944) 987607. Higginbotham’s Tel (044) 2499 7788.
14 Padmavathi Rd, Kumaran Silks 116 Anna Salai.
12 Nageswaran Museum Theatre
Jeyapore Colony, Tel (044) 2851 3519.
Rd, T Nagar. Pantheon Rd, Egmore.
Gopalapuram. Tel (044) 2434 3544. Musee Musicals Tel (044) 2819 3238.
Tel (044) 2835 1627. Man Mandir 67 Anna Salai. Music Academy
Prince Jewellery 15 Khader Nawaz Khan Tel (044) 2852 2780. 168 TTK Rd, Royapettah.
Rd, Nungamabakkam.
13 Nagaeswara Rao Rd, Tel (044) 2833 3370. Naturally Auroville Tel (044) 2811 2231.
Panagal Park. Tel (044) Nalli’s Khader Nawaz Khan Rd, Narada Gana Sabha
2436 3137. 9 Nageswaran Rd, T Thousand Lights West, 314 TTK Rd, Alwarpet.
Nagar. Tel (044) 2434 Thousand Lights. Tel (044) 2499 3201.
Rani Arts & Teak 4115. Tel (044) 2833 0517.
8 Nowrojee Rd, Chetpet. Sri Krishna
Radha Silks Poompuhar Gana Sabha
Tel (044) 4286 7800. Sannathi St, Mylapore. 818 Anna Salai.
Tel (09449) 007300. Tel (044) 2852 0624. 8 Maharajapuram
Sukhra Santhanam Salai, T Nagar.
Shilpi
42 North Mada St, Sapthaswara Tel (044) 2814 0806.
1 GG Minar, 23 College
Mylapore. Tel (044) 6555 Rd, Nungambakkam. Music Store Cinema
5555 or (044) 2464 0699. Tel (044) 2498 8303. 165 Royapetta H Rd,
29, CP Ramaswamy Rd. Mylapore.
Vummidi Bangaru Tel (044) 2499 7526. Tel (044) 2499 6498. Devi
48 Anna Salai.
Jewellers Sundari Silks VTI Tel (044) 2855 5660.
Rani Seethai Hall, 603 54–55 North Usman New 180, Anna Salai.
Rd, T Nagar. Ega
Anna Salai. Tel (044) 2829 Tel (044) 2814 3093. Tel (044) 2858 6779. 810 Poonamallee High
2003/2004/1573/1574. Entertainment Rd. Tel (044) 4343 6363.
Handicrafts and
Textiles and Saris Gifts Venues Sathyam Cineplex
Co-optex Apparao Galleries Kalakshetra Sathyam Theatre
Complex, 8, Thiru Vi
7 Wallace Garden, 3rd St, Kalakshetra Foundation,
Pantheon Rd, Egmore. Nungambakkam. Thiruvanmiyur. Ka Rd, Royapettah.
Tel (044) 2819 2394. Tel (044) 2833 0726/2226. Tel (044) 2452 0836. Tel (044) 4224 4224.


578-579_EW_India.indd 579 26/04/17 11:48 am

580-IND-AT509-1149-TAMAInt.indd 580 29/04/14 7:07 pm
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south india  581

TAMIL NADU

the cradle of ancient dravidian culture, tamil nadu extends from
the Coromandel Coast in the east to the forested Western Ghats in
the west. at its heart is the fertile Kaveri valley, a land of rice fields
and spectacular temples. this is the site of ancient Cholamandalam,
where the Chola kings built magnificent temples at thanjavur and
elsewhere. Great temples also stand at Madurai and Chidambaram,
which witnessed an efflorescence of dance, music and literature under
their enlightened rulers. the 7th-century port-city of Mamallapuram with
its spectacular rock-cut temples is now a World heritage site, while the former
French enclave of Puducherry, and British forts and churches reflect the state’s
colonial history. Many towns in tamil nadu have the prefix “tiru”, which means
sacred, and indicates the presence of a major religious site.

Sights at a Glance
Towns, Cities & Districts Tours
4 Vellore 8 Chidambaram 9 Coromandel Driving Tour
7 Puducherry 0 Gangaikondacholapuram i Tour of the Nilgiris
r Tiruchirapalli q Kumbakonam National Parks
o Coimbatore w Tiruvaiyaru u Mudumalai Wildlife
d Chettinad e Thanjavur Sanctuary
f Ramanathapuram t Srirangam
h Tuticorin p Palani Hill Stations
Historic & Cultural Sites s Madurai y Yercaud
1 Dakshina Chitra g Rameshvaram a Kodaikanal
j Tiruchendur
2 Mamallapuram k Tirunelvelli
6 Gingee Fort 0 kilometres 100
l Suchindram
Temples & Temple Towns z Kanniyakumari 0 miles 50
3 Kanchipuram
5 Tiruvannamalai NH205 NH5
Chittoor • NH4 • Chennai
• Arcot
NH46
NH7 NH66
Vedanthangal
• Key
NH68
• NH45A National highway
Salem
NH220
NH47 NH45 Major road
Minor road
NH17
NH67 Kave ri NH227
Major railway
•
Palakkad NH209 NH67 International border
NH45B State border
• Dindigul NH226
NH49
Kochi •
Tirumangalam Tondi Palk Strait
Kottayam • Jaffna
• NH220
• NH208 NH210 • •
Alappuzha NH45B NH49
NH7 • Talaimannar
NH47
•
Kollam • Kuttallam Gulf of
Mannar SRI LANKA
•
Thiruvananthapuram •
Manapad
•
Anuradhapura
Detail from a temple gopura with colourful stucco figures, Sarangapani Temple, Kumbakonam For keys to symbols see back flap
580-IND-AT509-1149-TAMAInt.indd 581 29/04/14 7:07 pm

582  SOUTH INDIA

1 Dakshina Chitra
Chingleput district. 26 km (16 miles)
S of Chennai. @ Tel (044) 2747 2603.
Open Wed–Mon. & 8 0 =
This heritage village, on the
Coromandel Coast, provides
a fascinating glimpse into
the homes and lifestyles of
the people of South India. The
village features reconstructions
of traditional houses, including,
so far, six from Tamil Nadu,
three from Kerala and one
from Karnataka. The handsome
Chettiar mansion (see p616) on Sculpted relief at Mamallapuram, depicting Bhagiratha’s Penance
view, with its elaborately carved
wooden door, reflects the wealth 2 Mamallapuram of Shiva with his consort, Parvati
of the Chettiar merchant Kanchipuram district. 58 km (36 miles) and sons, Skanda and Ganesha.
community, while the homes S of Chennai. @ n Covelong Rd, Inland from the Shore Temple,
of priests, farmers, weavers and (044) 2744 2232. Open daily. 8 = in the village centre, is the
potters are simple yet elegant 0 _ Dance Festival (Jan/Feb). celebrated bas­relief Bhagiratha’s
structures. Within the complex Penance, also known as Arjuna’s
is an Ayyanar shrine (see p609) The UNESCO World Heritage Penance, or the Descent of the
and an open courtyard, where Site of Mamallapuram (or Ganges. Carved on an immense
folk and classical dance perfor­ Mahabalipuram) was once rock with a natural vertical cleft,
mances and craft demonstrations a major port­city, built in the symbolizing the Ganges, the
are held. 7th century by the Pallava king, panel depicts in great detail
Narasimha Varman I, also known the story of the sacred river’s
Environs as Mamalla, the “Great Wrestler”. descent from the sky (see p167).
Cholamandal Village, 12 km This spectacular site, This divine act,
(7 miles) north of Dakshina Chitra, situated on the Bay made possible by
is an artists’ village established of Bengal, extends the penance of the
in 1966 and the first of its kind in across a boulder­ sage Bhagiratha, is
India. For nature lovers, the strewn landscape and witnessed on the
Crocodile Bank, founded by an comprises rock­cut panel by celestial and
American zoologist, Romulus caves and monolithic semi­celestial beings,
Whitaker, is 15 km (9 miles) south shrines (see pp584–5), ascetics, and animals.
of the village. It includes a snake structural temples The symbolism is best
farm and a cooperative of Irulas, and huge bas­reliefs understood during
a community of rat­catchers. that are considered the monsoon, when
to be the greatest Krishna’s Butter Ball, rainwater flows down
E Cholamandal Village examples of Pallava a natural boulder the cleft and collects
Tel (044) 2449 0092. Open daily. art. The stone­carving in the tank below.
E Crocodile Bank tradition that created these Nearby are the unfinished Panch
Tel (044) 2747 2447. Open Wed–Sun. wonders is still alive in the Pandava Cave Temple, and
& Extra charges for photography. many workshops scattered Krishna’s Butter Ball, a natural
around the village. boulder perched precariously
The spectacular Shore Temple, on a slope.
perched dramatically on a South of Bhagiratha’s Penance
promontory by the sea, has is the Krishna Mandapa, a huge
survived the ravages of time bas­relief showing the god lifting
and erosion. It was built by Mount Govardhan to protect the
Mamalla for Vishnu, while the people from torrential rains, as
two Shiva shrines were added well as performing his tasks
by Mamalla’s successor as a cowherd. The Olakkanatha
Narasimha Varman II, more Temple, above the mandapa,
popularly known as Raja Simha. was once used as a lighthouse.
The temple has a low boundary On the ridge southwest
wall, with rows of seated Nandis of Bhagiratha’s Penance are
surrounding it. Placed inside are three cave temples. The
a reclining Vishnu, a 16­faceted Mahishasuramardini Cave
A colourful sign announcing the entrance polished linga and reliefs of Temple has a graceful portrayal
to the Crocodile Bank Somaskanda – a composite form of Goddess Durga on her lion
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp702–703 and pp717–18


582-583_EW_India.indd 582 26/04/17 11:49 am
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T A MIL NADU  583


mount, subduing the buffalo- the Pallavas.The two-storeyed, Environs
headed demon, Mahisha, on rectangular Ganesha Ratha, The Tiger’s Cave, 4 km (2 miles)
the northern wall. This panel further south, is attributed north, is a shallow cave framed
seems to emanate life and to Parameshvara Varman I by a large boulder, with heads
motion, in contrast to the one (r.669–90). The temple, which of yalis (mythical leonine beasts).
on the southern wall, where was originally dedicated to It was probably a stage for
Vishnu reclines in deep meditation Shiva, has beautifully carved outdoor performances.
before creating the earth. inscriptions listing the royal The Vedagirisvara Temple,
The Trimurti Cave Temple, titles of Parameshvara Varman. dedicated to Shiva, at the
northwest of Bhagiratha’s A small Archaeological top of a hill in the village of
Penance, is dedicated to Museum, with sculptures Thirukazhukundram, 17 km (11
three gods – Shiva, Vishnu and and fragments excavated miles) west, is famous for the two
Somaskanda. The shrines are from the site, lies to its east. eagles that swoop down at noon
guarded by statues of graceful to be fed by the temple priests.
doorkeepers. A sculpture of E Archaeological Museum According to legend, these birds
Durga standing on Mahisha’s West Raja St. Open daily. & are saints who fly from Varanasi
head is on an outer wall. To its Shore Temple: & also covers (see pp206–212) to Rameshvaram,
south, the Varaha or Adi Varaha Panch Rathas. stopping here to rest.
Cave Temple has beautifully
moulded lion pillars, while the
relief sculptures of Lakshmi,
Durga and Varaha, the boar
incarnation of Vishnu, are among
the masterpieces of Pallava art.
It also features interesting panels
of Pallava rulers with their
consorts. The Lion Throne, on
top of a hill further west, is a
raised platform with a seated
lion, discovered near the piles
of brick rubble thought to be
the remains of the palace of Fishermen with their boats off the beach at Mamallapuram

Plan of Mamallapuram COVELONG ROAD Tiger's Cave




TIRUKKULA ROAD OTHAVADAI RD
CONERI ROAD
Trimurti •
Cave Temple WEST RAJA STREET EAST RAJA STREET
Krishna's Bay Of Bengal
Butter Ball •
Ganesha
Varaha • Ratha
Vedagirisvara Cave Temple
Temple • • Archaeological Museum
Bhagiratha's Penance •
Panch Pandava
Cave Temple •
• Shore Temple
Olakkanatha • Krishna Mandapa •
Koneri Tank Temple BEACH ROAD
Lighthouse
•
Adivaraha •
Cave Temple •
Mahishasuramardini
Cave Temple
0 metres 300
0 yards 300
Panch Rathas




582-583_EW_India.indd 583 26/04/17 11:49 am

584  SOUTH INDIA

Mamallapuram: Panch Rathas

This 7th-century complex of monolithic
rock-cut shrines called the Panch (five) Rathas
(processional temple chariots) is named after
the five Pandava brothers, heroes of the epic
Mahabharata (see p30), and their queen Draupadi.
Although unfinished, these impressive temples
are a tribute to the genius of the stone-cutters
who carved these large boulders in situ. In an
ambitious experiment, the styles and techniques
of wooden architecture were imitated in stone,
to create a variety of forms that later came to
influence South Indian temple design. Arjuna Ratha, Draupadi Ratha and Nandi
Arjuna Ratha
This two-storeyed temple
has a graceful portrayal
of Shiva leaning on his
mount, the bull Nandi.
Royal couples and other
elegantly carved figures
in the niches embellish
the outer walls.







. Durga Panel
A four-armed Durga is carved
on the rear wall of the Draupadi
Ratha’s sanctum, with kneeling
devotees in front. One of these
is shown in the process of
cutting his head off, as a supreme
act of self-sacrifice.



KEY
1 Draupadi Ratha, a stone replica
of a thatched tribal shrine, is the
smallest ratha of the group, and is
dedicated to the goddess Durga.
2 Nandi, carved out of a single
rock, faces the Arjuna Ratha.
3 Dharmaraja Ratha, an imposing
three-storeyed ratha, is crowned
by an octagonal domed roof.
Sculpted panels are carved on
the upper storeys.
4 Bhima Ratha, a gigantic,
rectangular ratha with a barrel-
vaulted roof and unfinished lower . Standing Lion
level, is named after the Pandava The mount of Durga
brother famed for his strength. is placed in front of
the Draupadi Ratha.
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp702–703 and pp717–18


584-585_EW_India.indd 584 26/04/17 11:49 am
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Date 24th April 2013
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T A MIL NADU  585

King Narasimha
The Pallava king Narasimha Varman I, the patron VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
of this complex and after whose title, Mamalla,
the site is named, is shown wearing a crown, Practical Information
a silk garment and jewellery. 1.5 km (1 mile) S of
Mamalla puram village.
Tel (044) 2744 2232.
Open daily. & 8 n Tamil
Nadu Tourism, Covelong Rd.































. Harihara
Niche figures on the lower level
include beautiful sculptures
of Harihara, a composite form
of Vishnu and Shiva (see p51).
The right side of the body with
matted locks of hair is Shiva, and
the left is Vishnu, with a smooth,
tapering cylindrical crown.











Nakul Sahdeva Ratha
Named jointly after the Pandava twins, this
ratha is unique for its apsidal form, known
in architectural terms as gajaprishta (back
of an elephant). As if to emphasize this,
a perfectly sculpted elephant, carved
from a single stone, stands next to it.




584-585_EW_India.indd 585 26/04/17 11:49 am

586  SOUTH INDIA


colourful gopuras and is one of the 18 temples
the main sanctum has dedicated to Vishnu. Erected by
a gold-plated roof. the Pallava king Nandi Varman II
The Kailasanatha (r.731–96), this unique structure
Temple, to the west of the has three main sanctums, built
bus stand, is the oldest one on top of the other. Each
and grandest structure in of them enshrines an image
the town. Built in the early of Vishnu in a different form –
8th century by Rajasimha, standing, sitting and reclining.
the last great Pallava The hall in the lower shrine has
king, this Shiva temple panels depicting the genealogy,
is surrounded by 58 coronations and martial
smaller shrines, each with conquests of the Pallava kings.
splendid carvings of the The Varadaraja Temple, on
various repre sentations of Gandhi Road, is the town’s main
Shiva. The frescoes here Vishnu temple. The chief deity
are the earliest in South is a form of Vishnu known as
India. The sanctum has Varadaraja (the “King who Bestows
a circumambulatory Benediction”). It is believed that
passage with great the temple stands on the site
symbolic meaning – where Brahma performed
Vaishnavite priests, Varadaraja Temple seven steps (indicating a yagna (sacrifice) to invoke
seven births) lead to a Vishnu’s presence. Among the
3 Kanchipuram dark passage (indicating the temple’s jewels is a valuable
journey of life) and a narrow gold necklace, said to have
Kanchipuram district. 76 km (47 miles)
SW of Chennai. * 162,500. £ @ outlet (indicating death). been presented by Robert
n Hotel Tamil Nadu, 78, Kamakshi On Car Street, the great Clive (see p565).
Amman Sannathi St, (044) 2722 Ekambareshvara Temple, Kanchipuram, famous for
2553/2554. _ Shivratri (Feb/Mar), constructed originally by the its silk, is also the seat of one
Panguni Uthiram Festival (Mar/Apr), Pallavas, has a 16-pillared of the four Shankaracharyas.
Brahmotsavam (Sep). mandapa in front of it – a later They belong to the long line
addition by the Vijayanagar of head priests of the matha
The small temple town of kings. This is one of the five (religious centre) founded
Kanchipuram, or Kanchi, as it panchalinga shrines (see p588) by the much-respected 9th-
is popularly known, is one of and houses a linga made of century philosopher-saint Adi
the seven sacred cities of the earth (prithvi). Legend says that Shankaracharya (see p652).
Hindus. From the 6th to the 8th the goddess Kamakshi, as part
centuries, it was the capital of of her penance for disturbing Environs
the Pallavas (see p582), who built Shiva’s meditation, created this The bird sanctuary of
numerous temples here and linga with earth taken from Vedanthangal, 30 km (19 miles)
founded universities for higher under a mango tree. Lingas southeast, attracts more than
learning. Royal patronage from abound in the corridors of the 30,000 migratory birds. Species
the succeeding Chola, Pandya temple complex, while on such as cormorants, egrets,
and Vijayanagar dynasties the western side of the shrine white ibis and grey wagtails
further consolidated the city’s stands the sacred mango tree, can be seen between October
reputation as a religious and said to be 3,000 years old. and February. The sanctuary
commercial centre. The Vaikuntha Perumal has been looked after by locals
Kanchipuram is sacred to Temple, near the railway station, for well over 250 years.
Shaivites (devotees of Shiva) as
well as to Vaishnavites (worship-
pers of Vishnu). The town is thus
divided into two distinct zones,
with the Shaivite temples to
the north and the Vaishnavite
temples to the southeast.
It also has an important
Devi (goddess) temple, the
Kamakshi Temple, situated
northeast of the bus stand.
Dedicated to Kamakshi,
or the “loving-eyed” Parvati,
the temple was rebuilt in the
14th century, during the
Vijayanagar period. It has four Kailasanatha, Kanchipuram’s oldest temple
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp702–703 and pp717–18


586-587_EW_India.indd 586 04/05/17 3:23 pm
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T A MIL NADU  587


Kanchipuram Silk

Initially, Kanchipuram was a weaving and trade centre for cotton textiles. But from
the 19th century, with the increase in availability of mulberry silk from neighbouring
Karnataka, the craftsmen turned entirely to silk weaving. Today, the silk fabric and
saris created by the city’s weavers and dyers are ritually offered to the gods before
being sold. Kanchipuram silks, an essential part of every Indian bride’s trousseau,
are renowned for their lustre, and for their elegant combination of contrasting
colours on the borders and end pieces (pallavs).

Dyeing is done
by a members
of a special
community,
who are skilled
in this technique.
The dyer first
dips the yarn
into a cauldron
Cocoons of the silkworm of colour and
then dries
(Bombyx mori) are reared on the hanks in
bamboo frames before being the sun.
dropped into boiling water to Yarn being sorted and
preserve the length of the fibre. graded before dyeing






Classic Kanchipuram saris are
woven from twisted yarn, which
makes them extremely durable.
They are embellished with
Warp and weft yarns are prepared by motifs such as temple spires,
family members. More than 5,000 holy rudraksha beads, lotus
families are involved in this very flowers and peacocks, often
lucrative handloom industry. woven in gold thread.




















Weavers’ dwellings are simple structures built around a courtyard, and serve as both a home and a
work place. The loom is the main feature, occupying a large portion of the living area. Weaving skills
are passed from generation to generation within families.





586-587_EW_India.indd 587 26/04/17 11:49 am

588  SOUTH INDIA

4 Vellore
Vellore district. 145 km (90 miles) W
of Chennai. * 3,936,331. £ Katpadi,
5 km (3 miles) N of town centre, then
bus or auto. @ ( daily.
Surrounded by a deep artificial
moat, the 16th-century Vellore
Fort dominates the heart of
this town. An impressive
example of military
architecture, the fort has
a turbulent history. This
formidable structure has
withstood many battles, Broad moat surrounding the quadrangular Vellore Fort
including an ill-fated mutiny
led by the son of Tipu Sultan reinstated in 1981, after which 5 Tiruvannamalai
(see p521) in 1806 against the worship recommenced. In the Tiruvannamalai district. 85 km
British East India Company. outer courtyard is the ornate (53 miles) S of Vellore. £ @
Today, part of the fort houses Kalyana Mandapa. Its pillars are _ Karthigai Deepam (Nov/Dec).
some government offices, carved with magnificent horses
including the Archaeological and yali riders. One of the most sacred cities of
Survey of India (ASI), district Vellore is renowned for its Tamil Nadu, this pilgrim town is
courts and a prison. A museum prestigious Christian Medical the place where Shiva is believed
inside the building has a small College, set up in 1900 by the to have appeared as a column
but good collection of histor- American Dr Ida Scudder. of fire (sthavara linga) in order
ical objects found in the area. This instiution specializes in to assert his supremacy over
The only major structure research on tropical diseases. Brahma and Vishnu. Arunachala
to survive in the fort is the Hill (the “Red Mountain”), which
magnificent Jalakanteshvara T Vellore Fort forms a backdrop to the town,
Temple, constructed by the Open daily. Museum: Open daily. is said to be the site where the
Nayakas, governors of the Jalakanteshvara Temple: Open daily. fire manifested itself, and is thus
region under the Vijayanagar perceived as the light of god
kings, in the mid-16th century. Environs himself. On the day of the
This Shiva temple is located Arcot, 27 km (17 miles) east Karthigai Deepam festival (see
near the fort’s northern wall. of Vellore, is best known for p593), an enormous deepa (lamp),
It is surrounded by a low-lying its flamboyant nawabs (see using 2,000 litres (440 gallons)
boundary wall and contains p574) and their resistance to of ghee and a 30-m (98-ft) wide
a tank and subsidiary shrines. the British and French forces wick, is lit on the hill, and burns
In the early 20th century, the in the late 18th century. Some for days. On a full moon night,
temple was used as a garrison, derelict tombs and a Jama pilgrims perform a 14-km
and its linga was removed from Masjid are all that remain (9-mile) long circumambulation
the sanctum. This was from that period. on foot around the hill.

The Five Elemental Lingas
Hindu belief holds that five essential elements – air, water, fire,
earth and ether – created man and the universe. Shiva, one of
the three main gods of the Hindu Trinity, is represented as the
embodiment of these five elements in five different places. At Sri
Kalahasti in Andhra Pradesh (see p684), he is represented as air;
in Tiruvanaikka (see p605) he takes the form of water, so the linga
(phallic symbol) in the main
sanctum is partly immersed
in water. At Tiruvannamalai,
Shiva represents fire, while in
the Ekambareshvara Temple
at Kanchipuram (see p586),
the linga is made of earth.
Finally, at Chidambaram
(see p594) Shiva represents
ether, the most sacred of
Nataraja Temple, Chidambaram, housing the five elements.
the ether linga The 16th-century Arunachaleshvara Temple
at Tiruvannamalai
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp702–703 and pp717–18


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Arunachaleshvara Temple, the
town’s most important structure,
is one of the five elemental shrines
of Shiva, where the linga,
encased in gold, represents fire.
Covering a vast area of 10 ha
(25 acres), this is also one of the
largest temple complexes in
India, parts of it dating to the 11th
century. It has nine imposing
towers, huge prakaras (walled
and cloistered enclosures), the
large Shivaganga Tank and a
vast thousand-pillared hall.
Tiruvannamalai is also
where Sri Ramana Maharshi,
the famed 20th-century saint, Krishna Temple and Durbar Hall on Krishnagiri Hill, Gingee Fort
spent 23 years in meditation.
The Sri Ramana Maharishi (1 mile) from north to south. (see p31) and the Vishnu Purana.
Ashram, near Arunachala Hill, Built by the local Nayaka A Ranganatha Temple and a
is an internationally renowned governors, feudatories of the Krishna Temple, both smaller
spiritual centre that attracts Vijayanagar kings, in the 15th than the Venkataramana Temple,
devotees from all walks of life. and 16th centuries, the fort are located on Krishnagiri Hill,
was occupied by Bijapur’s Adil as is the Durbar Hall that has
 Arunachaleshvara Temple Shahi Sultans (see p546), the balconies extending to the edge
Open daily. Closed to non-Hindus. Marathas (see p475), the French of the hill to provide good views
^ inside the sanctum. and, finally, the British. of the surrounding countryside.
This once-great fortress city is The fort’s finest monument
dotted with dilapidated arcaded is the Kalyana Mahal, a square
chambers, mosques, mandapas, hall built for the ladies of the
small shrines, tanks and granaries. court. The building has a central
Many temples, mostly dedicated eight-storeyed pyra midal tower
to Vishnu, survive as well. These with a single large room on
include the deserted temple in each floor.
the main citadel on the 242-m There are also traces of a
(794-ft) high Rajagiri Hill. The network of natural springs
most prominent, however, is the and tanks that provided an
great Venkataramana Temple, excellent supply of water to
in the foothills of the outer fort, the citadel. One of the tanks,
near Puducherry Gate. This Chettikulam, has a platform
was constructed by Muthialu where Raja Thej Singh, a
Nayaka in the 17th century. courageous 18th- century
Its original pillars were removed Rajput chief and vassal of the
by the French and used in Mughal emperor, was cremated.
the Government Square at Tamil folk songs glorify Gingee
Puducherry (see p590). Near the and Raja Thej Singh, who was
Kalyana Mahal with Rajagiri Hill in the gateway are panels depicting killed in a heroic battle against
background, Gingee scenes from the Ramayana the Nawab of Arcot.
6 Gingee Fort
Viluppuram district. 37 km (23 miles) E
of Tiruvannamalai. @ Open daily. &
Gingee (locally called Senji)
Fort is a remarkable example
of military engineering. Its three
citadels, dramatically perched
atop three hills – Krishnagiri to
the north, Rajagiri to the west
and Chandrayandurg to the
southeast – are enclosed by
solid stone walls to form a
vast triangular-shaped area
extending more than 1.5 km Gingee Fort, sprawling across three hills




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590  SOUTH INDIA

7 Street-by-Street: Puducherry

The former capital of French territories in India,
Puducherry was established in 1674 by François Government
Martin, the first director of the French East India Square
Company. The town is laid out in a grid pattern, A pavilion
with parallel streets cutting across each other at stands in the
right angles. Its main promenade, the 3-km (2-mile) centre of
this tree-
long Goubert Salai running along the Bay of Bengal, lined square.
formed part of the French Quarter, with its elegant
colonial mansions, tree-lined boulevards, parks,
bars and cafés. Beyond this was a canal, now dry,
that demarcated the Tamil Town, where the
local populace once lived. V I C T O R S I M O N E L S T R E E T


C A S E R N E S T R E E T MAHÉ DE LABOURDONNAIS STREET M A N A K U L A V I N A Y A K A R

















Le Café, a popular
restaurant on
Goubert Salai. G O U B E R T S A L A I ( B E A C H R O A D )




A Statue of Mahatma ST MARTIN STREET
Gandhi, 4 m (13 ft)
0 metres 80 high, stands on a
0 yards 80 pedestal surrounded
by eight stone pillars.

Joseph François Dupleix
Puducherry’s colonial past is intricately interwoven
with the life of the redoubtable Marquis Joseph
François Dupleix, governor between 1742 and
1754. This energetic statesman tried valiantly to
. Church of Our prevent British supremacy by forming alliances
Lady of the Angels with local princes. This power struggle was
Built in 1865, this aggravated by the War of Austrian Succession in
striking church boasts Europe between England and France. With the
a rare oil painting final defeat of the French in the Second Carnatic
of Our Lady of the War, Dupleix relinquished his governorship and
Assumption, a gift returned in disgrace to Paris. His memorial Dupleix
from the French statue is on Goubert Salai. (1697–1764)
emperor, Napoleon III.
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp702–703 and pp717–18


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PUDUCHERR Y  591

Raj Nivas
A harmonious fusion VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
of French and Indian
styles of architecture, Practical Information
Dupleix’s palatial Union Territory of Puducherry.
home is now the 160 km (99 miles) S of Chennai.
* 220,800.
Lieutenant Governor’s n Puducherry Tourism, Goubert
official residence.
Salai, (0413) 233 9497. 8
( Mon–Sat. _ Masimagam
(Feb/Mar), Ganesha Chaturthi
(Aug/Sep).
Transport
£ @

Manakula
General Hospital Vinayakar Temple
Dedicated to Ganesha,
this temple has a
golden spire, and walls
portraying 40 different
forms of Ganesha.




M A N A K U L A V I N A Y A K A R

K O I L S T R E E T

Key Suggested route
L A W D E L A U R I S T O N S T R E E T

F R A N Ç O I S M A R T I N S T R E E T


M A R I N E S T R E E T
CAMPAGNIE ST


ST MARTIN STREET


. Aurobindo Ashram
Named after Sri Aurobindo (see p592), this serene
ashram organizes regular medi tation sessions, to
which all are welcome.


Puducherry
Museum’s collection
ranges from ancient Roman
artifacts and Chola bronzes
to beautiful snail shells.
. Puducherry Promenade
Goubert Salai, the boulevard along the Bay of
Bengal, is lined with grand colonial buildings.




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592  SOUTH INDIA

Exploring Puducherry Y Botanical Gardens
S of City Bus Stand. &
Often described as a sleepy French provincial town, Lying at the far western end
Puducherry (originally named Pondicherry) retains a of the old Tamil Town, the
distinct Gallic flavour. French is still spoken among the Botanical Gardens, laid out
older residents, while stately colonial mansions stand in in 1826, were designed in
the formal French style with
tree-lined streets that are still known by their colonial clipped trees, flower beds,
names. Even the policemen continue to wear the military- gravel walks and fountains.
style caps, known as kepis. Located on the east coast The French introduced many
of Tamil Nadu, it is the administrative capital of a Union unusual and exotic trees and
Territory that includes the former French enclaves of shrubs from all over India
Mahe in Kerala (see p659), Yanam in Andhra Pradesh and the world, many of
which are still here. With its
and Karaikkal in Tamil Nadu. 1,500 species of plants, this
is one of the best botanical
E Puducherry Museum second floor of the library, is gardens in South India. An
49, Rue St Louis. Tel Director Art open to the public. interesting little aquarium
& Culture, (0413) 233 6236. displays some of the more
Open Tue–Sun. P Romain Rolland Library spectacular marine species
Located in the lovely old Law Tel (0413) 233 6426. Open Mon–Sat. from the Coromandel Coast.
Building, near Government Park,
the Puducherry Museum has an R Basilica of the Sacred P House of Ananda
outstanding collection of Heart of Jesus Rangapillai
artifacts from the French South Boulevard. Open daily. Ananda Rangapillai St. Tel (0413)
colonial period. The rooms A serene atmo sphere 233 5756 for permission to visit.
in one section are cloaks this brown This lavishly furnished
furnished in French and white Neo- house, which was once the
style, and are Gothic basilica, home of an 18th-century
decorated with built in the 1700s. Indian nobleman, offers
marble statuary, Its most interesting fascinating glimpses into
paintings, mirrors features are its large a vanished lifestyle. Now a
and clocks. Prized stained-glass panels museum, the house was
exhibits include the depicting incidents owned by Ananda Rangapillai,
bed that Dupleix from the life of Dupleix’s favourite courtier
slept on when he Jesus Christ, and and dubash (translator).
was the governor, the handsome A perceptive observer and
and a pousse-pousse, arches that span commentator, he maintained a
an earlier version of the nave. Further series of diaries between 1736
the rickshaw. along the southern and 1760, recording his views
The museum boulevard is the of the fluctuating fortunes of
also displays rare cemetery, which the French in India. However,
bronzes and stone has tombs that he displeased Madame
sculptures from the Stained glass, Basilica feature ornate Dupleix, who eventually
Pallava and Chola of the Sacred Heart marble decorations. ousted him from his post.
periods. Among the
artifacts excavated from nearby
Arikamedu, an ancient port Sri Aurobindo Ghose
that had trade links with The firebrand Bengali poet-philosopher,
Imperial Rome, are beads, Aurobindo Ghose, who joined the
amphorae, coins, ornamented struggle for freedom in the early 1900s,
oil lamps, funerary urns and was known for his extremist views. To
fragments of pottery and china. escape from the British, he took refuge in
Inside the same compound the French territory of Puducherry, where
is the Romain Rolland Library. he was drawn into the spiritual realm.
Established in 1872, the library It was here that he studied, wrote about
and popularized the principles of yoga.
now has a rich collection of His disciple, Mirra Alfassa, known later
more than 300,000 volumes, as “The Mother”, was a Parisian mystic,
including many rare editions painter and musician, who first came to Sri Aurobindo (1872–1950)
in both French and English. Puducherry with her husband during
Its mobile library service takes World War I. Sri Aurobindo’s philosophy so inspired her that she
more than 8,000 books in stayed on, and was later instrumental in the establishment of the
a bus to nearby villages. Aurobindo Ashram.
The reference section, on the
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp702–703 and pp717–18


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PUDUCHERR Y  593


Festivals of
Tamil Nadu
Pongal (mid-Jan). A
thanksgiving festival in praise
of the sun, land and cattle,
Pongal is celebrated all
over Tamil Nadu. A sweet
rice pudding (pongal) is the
main offering. The southern
districts organize a bullfight,
a popular martial event
known as manju virattal.
Chitirai (mid-Apr). The
The verdant courtyard of the École Française d’Extrême-Orient Tamil New Year is celebrated
all over the state with
P École Française Founded by Sri Aurobindo offerings of food to the gods.
d’Extrême-Orient in 1926, the Ashram is a In Madurai, the marriage
of Minakshi (Parvati) and
16 & 19, Rue Dumas. peaceful retreat with tree-shaded Sundar eshvara (Shiva) is
Tel (0413) 233 2504. courtyards. The flower-festooned celebrated with much pomp.
An internationally renowned samadhi (memorial) of Sri
research institution, the Aurobindo and his spiritual Adi Perukku (Jul/Aug).
Sweets and different kinds
19th-century École Française collaborator, “The Mother” lies of rice preparations are
d’Extrême-Orient is noted for its under a frangipani tree in the offered to the rivers of
research in Asian archaeology, main courtyard. This memorial, Tamil Nadu to mark the
history and sociology. with two chambers, one above onset of the monsoon.
the other, is the focal point for
P French Institute all disciples and followers. Navaratri Gollu (Sep/Oct).
Exclusively for women, this
of Indology nine-day festival marks the
11, St Louis St. Tel (0413) 233 4539. Environs victory of Goddess Durga
The prestigious French Institute Auroville, or the “City of Dawn”, over the buffalo demon
of Indology was established 8 km (5 miles) northwest of Mahisha. Houses are decorated
in the mid-1950s by an Puducherry, was designed by with gollu dolls, which depict
eminent French Indo logist, French architect Roger Anger gods and goddesses, as
Dr Jean Fillozat. Originally in 1968. Conceiv ed as a utopian well as with contemporary
set up for the study of local paradise by The Mother, Mirra secular icons.
language and culture, this Alfassa, it was planned as a Karthigai (Nov/Dec),
institute now has links with futuristic international city, Tiruvannamalai. People decorate
many French universities where people of goodwill their homes with lights to
and research organizations. would live together in peace. celebrate the birth of Murugan,
The International Commune, son of Shiva (see p588).
P Aurobindo Ashram with 40 settlements with names
Rue de la Marine. such as Grace, Serenity and
Tel (0413) 223 3604. Open daily. Certitude, and 550 permanent
Puducherry’s best-known residents, was meant to bring
landmark, the Aurobindo Ashram people from different castes,
dominates life in this town. religions and nations under
one roof, where they
could live in harmony. Two
important settle ments,
Fraternité and Harmonie,
sell handicrafts made by
local artisans. The Matri
Mandir, a meditation
centre set in an area of
25 ha (62 acres), reflects
The Mother’s spiritual
beliefs. This spherical
marble chamber has a
crystal placed inside it,
reflecting the sun’s rays.
The concentrated light Tamil women making preparations
Matri Mandir, the spiritual and physical centre acts as a focal point to for Pongal
of Auroville aid meditation.




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594  SOUTH INDIA


part of the complex, contains
the Chit Sabha or Chitambalam
(“Hall of Bliss”), from which the
town derives its name. This is the
main sanctum, housing one
of the five elemental lingas of
Shiva (see p588), the akasha linga,
which represents ether, the all-
pervading element central to
human existence. The inner
sanctum containing the linga is
hidden behind a black curtain,
symbolizing ignorance, which is
removed only during prayer time.
There is a certain aura of mystery
to this veiled sanctum, and it is
often called the Sacred Secret
of Chidambaram (Chidambara
Rahasyam). Finally, the fifth hall,
in front of the Chit Sabha, is the
Kanaka Sabha (“Golden Hall”),
where Shiva is supposed to have
performed his cosmic dance.
Other areas of interest in
the complex are the Govinda­
rajaswamy Shrine, housing
the reclining Vishnu, the
Shivakamasundari Shrine,
dedicated to Shiva’s consort,
Parvati, and the Subramanyam
Shrine, in which Murugan
Gold-plated roof of the main sanctum, Nataraja Temple, Chidambaram is worshipped.
Religious traditions in the
8 Chidambaram sculptures of the 108 hand temple are preserved by a
and feet movements of Bharat group of hereditary priests,
Thanjavur district. 60 km (37 miles)
S of Puducherry. * 59,000. £ @ Natyam (see p33), and is whose ancestors came to
_ Dance Festival (Feb/Mar), Arudhra considered a veritable Chidambaram 3,000 years ago.
(Dec/Jan). encyclopaedia of this classical Known as the dikshitars, they are
temple dance. easily recognized by
Sacred Chidambaram, where Within the temple’s their top-knots.
Shiva is believed to have three enormous Chidambaram’s other
performed his cosmic dance, enclosures are five claim to fame is the
the tandava nritya, is a major halls (sabhas), modern Annamalai
traditional temple town where each conceived for a University, which
history merges with mythology special purpose. In the is located to the
to create a deeply religious outer enclosure, next east. Founded by a
ambience. All ancient Hindu to the Shivaganga Tank, philanthropist over
beliefs and practices are is the Raja Sabha 50 years ago, it is
zealously observed here, (“Royal Hall”), a beautiful Tamil Nadu’s first
manifested in an endless cycle thousand-pillared hall, residential university,
of rites and rituals. built as a venue for Urdhava Tandava, specializing in South
The focal point of the town temple rituals and Nataraja Temple Indian studies.
is the awe-inspiring Nataraja festivals. Many Chola
Temple, built by the Cholas kings were crowned here in  Nataraja Temple
(see pp50–51) in the 9th century the presence of the deity. In the Near bus stand. Open daily. & 8
to honour their patron deity, central enclosure is the Deva
Shiva as Nataraja, the “Lord of Sabha (“Divine Hall”), where the Environs
Dance” (see p570). The temple has temple bronzes are housed, and Located 16 km (10 miles) east
an unusual hut-like sanctum with administrative functions of Chidambaram, Pichavaram’s
a gold-plated roof, the huge, performed. The adjacent Nritya maze of picturesque backwaters,
colonnaded Shivaganga Tank, Sabha (“Dance Hall”) has a superb with mangrove forests
and four colourful gopuras. The collection of sculptures, the finest and 1,700 islands in 4,000
most interesting is the eastern being the Urdhava Tandava. The canals, can be explored
gopura, which features detailed innermost enclosure, the holiest in rowing boats.
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp702–703 and pp717–18


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9 Coromandel Driving Tour

Named after Cholamandalam (“the Realm of the Cholas”),
the Coromandel Coast extends from the Godavari Delta
in Andhra Pradesh in the north, to Point Calimere in the
south. This spectacularly beautiful strip of land played a
significant role in the maritime history of India. Its great
ports have, through the ages, attracted traders and
merchants in search of textiles and spices. Dansborg Fort at Tarangambadi
Chidambaram
1 Tirumullaivasal Sirkazhi 2 Poompuhar
A magnificent This historic port city once
shrine to Shiva had trade links with ancient
dominates this Greece and Rome. An
small coastal town. interesting museum here
Kaveri
recreates stories of its past
glory in bas-reliefs.
Mayiladuthurai
3 Tarangambadi
More popularly known as Key
Tranquebar, this little town Tour route
was a Danish settlement in Other roads
the 17th century. It has an
impressive fort, churches
and a beautiful brick
gateway, the Town Gate. 0 kilometres 10
0 miles 10
4 Karaikal
This former French town
Vettar
has many 19th-century
Thiruvarur mansions and a Neo-
Gothic church.


6 Nagapattinam
An old Chola port, this Vellar
was also a major Buddhist
centre till the 13th century.
It was later occupied by Tirutturaippundi
the Portuguese, the Dutch 5 Nagore
and, finally, the British. The 16th-century tomb
of Hazrat Sayyid Shahul, a
Muslim saint who died in
Nagore, attracts devotees of
all religions, castes and creeds.

Tips for Drivers
Length: 90 km (56 miles).
Stopping-off points: Hotel Tamil
Nadu at both Poompuhar and
Nagapattinam are convenient
7 Velankanni 8 Point Calimere stopping-off points. The route is
People of all religions seek This wildlife sanctuary spread well connected by government
cures at the Neo-Gothic over 20,000 ha (49,421 acres) and private buses.
Basilica of Our Lady of of saline marshland is a
Good Health. haven for migratory birds.





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596  SOUTH INDIA


sculpture of a seated lion to
a well, believed to have been
filled with Ganges water
for daily rituals.
The small Archaeological
Museum, near the temple,
exhibits Chola artifacts from
neighbouring sites.

 Brihadishvara Temple
Open daily. Museum: Open daily.
q Kumbakonam
Thanjavur district. 74 km (46 miles) SW
of Chidambaram. * 140,100. £ @
n Thanjavur tourist office, (04362)
231 325. _ Nageshvara Temple
Festival (Apr/May), Maha maham
Festival (every 12 years).
Like Kanchipuram (see p586),
Kumbakonam is one of the
most sacred cities in Tamil Nadu.
Located on the southern bank
of the Kaveri river, this is an
ancient city, where, as legend
says, Shiva’s arrow shattered the
cosmic pot (kumbh) containing
Superb Nataraja sculpture at Gangaikondacholapuram the divine nectar of creation
(amrit). This myth has given
0 Gangaikon­ temple is shorter than the one Kumbakonam both its name
dacholapuram at Thanjavur. Adorning the and sanctity. Today, the city
lower walls, columns and niches represents the traditional
Tiruchirapalli district. 40 km (25 miles) are many remarkable sculptural cultural values of the Tamil
SW of Chidambaram. @ from friezes. One of the most out­ heartland. It is also the region’s
Chidambaram or Kumbakonam. standing is the panel depicting main commercial and craft
Grandly titled Gangaikon­ Shiva blessing Chandesha, a centre, famous for its textiles,
dacholapuram, “The City of pious devotee sculpted to jewellery, bronze casting and
the Chola who took the resemble Rajendra I himself. the superior quality of its
Ganges”, this now­modest The sculptures of the dikpalas locally grown betel leaves.
village was the capital of the (guardians of the eight It is believed that when the
powerful Chola dynasty directions), ekadasas (the divine nectar emerged from
(see pp50–51) during the reign 11 forms of Shiva), Saraswati, the pot, it filled the huge
of Rajendra I (r.1012–44). A great Kalyanasundara and Nataraja Mahamaham Tank. This is
military commander like his (see p570) are also splendid Kumbakonam’s sacred centre
father Rajaraja I, Rajendra I was examples of Chola art. Steps and the site of the great
the first Tamil ruler to venture near the small Durga shrine Mahamaham Festival, held
northwards. He built this city in the courtyard lead past a every 12 years (the last one
to commemorate his successful
campaign across the Ganges.
According to an inscription,
he then ordered the defeated
rulers to carry back pots of
sacred Ganges water on their
heads to fill the Chola­Ganga
tank, a victory memorial.
Except for the magnificent
Brihadishvara Temple, little
remains of his capital city.
Built as a replica of Than javur’s
Brihadishvara Temple (see
pp602–603), the towered
sanctum of this granite Shiva The 17th-century Adikumbheshvara Temple, Kumbakonam
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp702–703 and pp717–18


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T A MIL NADU  597


was held in 2016). At the
auspicious time, thousands
of devotees enter the tank for
their holy dip. This is when the
purifying power of the water
is said to be at its height. The
devout believe that all of India’s
nine sacred rivers (Ganges,
Yamuna, Saraswati, Sarayu,
Godavari, Narmada, Kaveri,
Payokshini and Kanniyakumari)
also bathe in the tank to cleanse
themselves of the sins of
humanity accumulated in
their waters.
The tank, renovated by the Temple chariots at Kumbakonam’s Adikumbheshvara Temple
Nayakas in the 17th century,
has steps at the four cardinal forms of Shiva, and scenes the 63 Shaivite poet-saints, the
points, and 16 ornate pavilions from the Ramayana (see p31). Nayannars (see p49). The late
in honour of the 16 mahadanas Chola temple at Tirubhuvanam,
(great gifts bestowed by a ruler Environs 8 km (5 miles) northeast of
on a spiritual centre). A fine Some 4 km (2 miles) west Kumbakonam, is dedicated
example of Nayaka art is a of Kumbakonam, to Kumbheshvara,
relief depicting a king being the spectacular the “God who
weighed on a balance against Airavateshvara removes Fear”. This
gold (a ceremony known as Temple at Darasuram, is also an old silk-
tulapurushadeva), carved was built by the weaving centre.
on the roof of a 16-pillared Chola king, Rajaraja II About 8 km
mandapa that stands (r.1146–73). This (5 miles) west of
at the northwest corner temple is dedicated Kumbakonam is
of the tank. To the north is the to Shiva, who is Shiva’s wedding Swamimalai, one of
Kashi vishvanatha Temple, known here as procession, Darasuram the six sacred shrines
which has a small shrine facing Airavateshvara, the devoted to Lord
the water; this is dedicated to “Lord of Airavata”. Legend claims Murugan (see p29), who, legend
the nine sacred rivers, personified that after Airavata, the white says, propounded the meaning
as goddesses. The shrine elephant of Indra, the God of the of “Om”, the sacred mantra, to his
representing the Kaveri river Heavens, regained his lost colour, father Shiva, and thus assumed
occupies the central position. he worshipped Shiva at this spot. the title Swaminatha (“Lord of
To the east of the tank is the The four-tiered temple has a Lords”). The temple, situated on
17th-century Adikumbh eshvara sanctum and three halls, of which a hill, has an impressive statue
Temple, built on the legendary the finest is the Raja gambira of Murugan in the sanctum;
spot where Shiva shattered the Mandapa, conceived as a stone interestingly, he has an elephant
pot. A unique feature here is the chariot drawn by caparisoned as his vehicle instead of the
depiction of 27 stars and the 12 horses, with Brahma as its driver. typical peacock. This small village
zodiac signs carved on a large The out er walls have fine friezes is also an important centre for
block of stone in the Navaratri and carvings of musicians, bronze casting, and its artisans
Mandapa. It also has a superb dancers and acrobats as well still use traditional methods
collection of silver vahanas as depictions from the Periya to create beautiful images for
(vehicles), which are used during Puranam, a Tamil treatise on temples (see p598).
festivals to carry the temple
deities. The grand, 12-storeyed
Sarangapani Temple, to the
east, is the most important
Vaishnavite shrine in the city.
Nearby is the 9th-century
Nageshvara Temple, a fine
example of early Chola
architecture. The town’s oldest
temple, this is the site of an
annual festival that celebrates
the worship of the linga by the
sun. Niches on the sanctum
walls contain exquisitely
carved figures depicting the Small votive shrines outside the Airavateshvara Temple, Darasuram




596-597_EW_India.indd 597 26/04/17 11:49 am

598  SOUTH INDIA


can be a magical experience.
Also in the town is the 9th-
century Panchanandishvara
Temple (“Lord of the Five Rivers”),
built by the Cholas. Dedicated
to Shiva, the shrines of Uttara
(north) Kailasha and Dakshina
(south) Kailasha, on either side
of the main temple, were built
by the wives of Rajaraja I and
Rajendra I (see pp50–51). The
temple’s huge prakara (boundary)
College of Music at Tiruvaiyaru, on the Kaveri river walls, pillared mandapas and the
Mukti Mandapa are immor talized
w Tiruvaiyaru which falls, according to the in the songs of the Nayannars, a
Tamil calendar, in January. sect of 7th-century poet-
Thanjavur district. 13 km (8 miles)
N of Thanjavur. * 185,737. @ Hundreds of musicians and saints (see p49).
_ Thyagaraja Music Festival (Jan). students of Carnatic music
gather in the town and sing Environs
The fertile region watered Thyagaraja’s songs from Pullamangai village, 12 km (7
by the Kaveri river and its morning till midnight for miles) northeast of Tiruvaiyaru, is
four tributaries is known as a whole week. noted for the Brahmapurishvara
Tiru vaiyaru, the sacred (tiru) As dawn breaks over the Temple, dating to the 10th
land of five (i) rivers (aru). For river, a procession of musicians century. The temple features
nearly 2,000 years the Tamil makes the short journey from elegant depictions of various
people have regarded the Thyagaraja’s house to the gods and goddesses.
Kaveri as the sacred source temple, singing contin uously
of life, religion and culture. As all the way. Music lovers wait
a result, many scholars, artists, eagerly at the shrine, seated
poets and musicians settled on the mud floor of the thatch-
in this region, under the roofed auditorium. To the
enlightened patronage of the sacred chants of priests, the
rulers of Thanjavur (see pp600–601). stone image of Thyagaraja is
Among them was Thyagaraja ritually bathed with milk,
(1767–1847), the greatest rosewater, sandalwood and
composer-saint of Carnatic honey. The five songs known
music. The history of this small as the pancha ratna (“five
town is thus deeply linked with gems”) of Thyagaraja, which
the growth and development are considered unequalled
of South Indian classical music. masterpieces of Carnatic music,
The little Thyagaraja Temple, are sung in a grand chorus by
in the town, was built to all the assembled musicians.
commemorate the last resting This ceremony is an annual
place of the celebrated reaffirmation of devotion to
composer-saint. A musical the composer and to a great
festival is held here every year tradition of music. For music Cows being bathed in the waters of the
on the anniversary of his death, lovers from all over India, it Kaveri, Tiruvaiyaru

Thanjavur Bronzes
The Thanjavur region’s wealth of artistic traditions includes the creation of exquisite bronze images
through a process known as cire perdue or the “lost-wax” technique. A model of the image is first made
in wax and then coated with layers of clay to create a
mould, which is heated to allow the melting wax to flow
out through a hole at the base. A molten alloy of five
metals (panch loha) is poured into the hollow. When the
metal cools, the mould is broken and the image is finished
and polished. Finally, the image’s eyes are sealed with a
mixture of honey and ghee and then ritually “opened” by
a priest, using a golden needle. Even today, traditional
artisans, known as sthapathis, create these images according
to a fixed set of rules and guidelines laid down in the Shilpa
Shastra, an ancient treatise on art. The main centre for
Artisan adding finishing touches to bronze idols bronze casting in Tamil Nadu is Swamimalai (see p597).

For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp702–703 and pp717–18


598-599_EW_India.indd 598 26/04/17 11:49 am
Eyewitness Travel LAYERS PRINTED:
Catalogue template “UK” LAYER
(Source v2.6)
Date 12th July 2013
Size 125mm x 217mm