(DK Eyewitness) Travel Guide - India

DELHI  99

v Tughluqabad contriving to have a gateway
collapse on him. Both are
Off Mehrauli-Badarpur Rd.
q Jasola Apollo. Monuments: buried in Ghiyasuddin’s Tomb,
Open daily. attached to the Tughluqabad
Fort by a causeway that
The third of Delhi’s early crossed the dammed waters
capitals (see p95), Tughluqabad of a lake. Constructed in red
is dominated by its spectacular sandstone and inlaid with
fort, built by Ghiyasuddin white marble, the tomb’s
Tughluq early in the 14th sloping walls pione ered a style
century. The fort was so sturdily that was used in all subsequent
constructed that its rubble-built Tughluq architecture.
walls, following the contours of
Pots displayed at the unique the hill, survive intact all along b Baha’i House
Sanskriti Museum the 7-km (4-mile) perimeter.
Rising from the citadel to the of Worship
c Sanskriti right of the main entrance are
Museum the ruins of the Vijay Mandal Bahapur, Kalkaji. Tel (011) 2644 4029.
q Kalkaji Mandir. Open 9am–5pm
(“Tower of Victory”). To the left is
Anandgram, Mehrauli-Gurgaon Rd. a rectangular area where arches Tue–Sun (to 6:30pm in summer).
q Arjan Garh. Tel (011) 2696 3226. are all that remain of a complex Closed public hols. Prayer services:
Open 10am–5pm Tue–Sun. Closed of palaces, houses and halls. 10am, noon, 3pm & 5pm.
pub hols. ∑ sanskritifoundation.org
Legend has it that when Delhi’s most innovative modern
This unusual museum is set Ghiyasuddin tried to prevent structure, the Baha’i House
amid beautifully landscaped, the building of the baoli at of Worship is a world where
spacious grounds. Exhibits are Hazrat Nizamuddin Auliya’s silence and order prevail.
displayed both in the garden dargah (see p86), the saint Designed by the Iranian
and in specially constructed cursed him, saying that one architect Fariburz Sahba, it
rural huts. The collection itself is day only jackals and the was completed in 1986.
equally unusual in its devotion Gujjar tribe would The arresting shape
to objects of everyday use that inhabit his capital. of its unfurling,
have been exquisitely crafted A good view of 27-petalled, white
by unknown, rural artisans. OP the fort and of the marble lotus has
Jain, whose personal collections smaller, adjoining given it its more
gave birth to this museum, has Adilabad Fort, is popular name,
donated combs, nutcrackers, possible from the Ghiyasuddin Tughluq’s Tomb the Lotus Temple.
lamps, toys, foot-scrubbers and walls. Adilabad was The edifice is
kitchenware, to demonstrate built by Muhammad bin Tughluq, circled by nine pools and 92 ha
how even the most utilitarian who is believed to have killed (227 acres) of green lawns.
objects can possess an innate his father Ghiyasuddin by The Baha’i sect originated in
beauty. Terracotta objects from Persia and is based on a view
all over India, in every shape and of humanity as one single race.
size, are also on display. They Followers of all faiths are invited
include pots made in traditional to meditate and attend the
techniques unchanged daily 15-minute services
for centuries, and figures in the lofty auditorium,
of South Indian which can seat up
village deities. to 1,300 people.















The lotus-domed Baha’i House of Worship, one of Delhi’s most spectacular sights




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100  DELHI & THE NOR TH

Shopping & Entertainment a marvellous old­fashioned
in Delhi shop, where one can test Indian
perfume (attar) from cut­glass
bottles. Their soaps are also
The hallmark of shopping in Delhi is the bewildering variety worth buying. Herbal cosmetics,
of merchandise, markets and styles. Besides Connaught incense sticks, perfumed candles
Place, almost every residential colony boasts a market. Old, and aromatherapy oils and
established shops, bazaars and markets co-exist happily lotions are available in many of
the larger stores, including Good
with glitzy, high-end boutiques and department stores, and Earth, which also stocks towels,
one can buy anything from seasonal fruits and traditional bathrobes and massage mats.
handicrafts to designer clothes and the latest imported Cosmetics by Vama Ayurveda,
electronic items. Delhi also has a rich and varied cultural life. Biotique and Shahnaz Herbal
The city’s cultural calendar livens up between October and are found at most chemists.
Spices and fresh seasonal fruit
March, when the season is in full swing. The number of events are found at INA Market and
multiply, as all major festivals of music, dance, theatre and Indian tea is sold in Kaka Nagar
cinema are held at this time of the year. Market (near the Oberoi Hotel on
Zakir Hussain Marg), Khan Market
and at Mittal Tea House in Lodi
Shops and Markets Kelvy are the best places for Colony market.
New Delhi’s main shopping contemporary silverware.
centres are in and around
Connaught Place and Janpath, Textiles, Shawls Entertainment Guides,
Tickets and Venues
where the state emporiums and
Cottage Industries offer an and Carpets All newspapers list the day’s
exciting and varied range of Traditional textiles are available entertainment on their
textiles, jewellery and souve nirs in most of the better shops and engagements page. Other
at fixed and reasonable prices. emporiums, particularly Cottage useful sources of information
In the north is Chandni Chowk Industries on Janpath. A wide on events, restaurants, sports
(see pp88–9), the traditional and exclusive selection of and related activities are
market, while to the south are personal care products are on TimeOut Delhi and Little Black
Khan Market, Sundar Nagar and offer at Forest Essentials in Khan Book Delhi, both found online.
Santushti, the old urban villages Market. The Shop, Anokhi and At several venues in the city,
of Hauz Khas, Shahpur Jat and FabIndia are the best places such as the India International
Mehrauli, and Dilli Haat, a crafts for good­quality ready­made Centre, entry is free. At others,
bazaar on Aurobindo Marg. garments, linen and light cotton such as the Indian Council
Meherchand Market on bustling quilts. Lodi Colony market for Cultural Relations (ICCR),
Lodhi Road offers quirky fashion has several boutiques offering it is by invitation only. Tickets
boutiques and quaint eateries. eclectic Indian designer­wear, for selected music and dance
including the stylish Abraham festivals and theatre, however,
& Thakore. Shyam Ahuja sells are advertised and sold at
Antiques, Jewellery linen, textiles and dhurries, while certain bookshops or at the
and Silver
The Carpet Cellar is an excellent box office.
Genuine antiques are rare to outlet for Afghan and Kashmiri Most of Delhi’s cultural
come by and, in any case, cannot carpets and pashmina shawls. activities are clustered around
be taken out of the country Mandi House (see p79). The
unless certified by the ASI (see Handicrafts and Gifts city’s largest auditorium,
p735). However, Lota, the Crafts Kamani on Copernicus Marg,
Museum shop, hotel boutiques Lota, the Crafts Museum shop, hosts concerts, plays and
and Sundar Nagar market Tulsi, Kamala and Dilli Haat classical music and dance
stock excellent reproductions have a wide selection of Indian performances throughout the
of miniature paintings, wood­ handicrafts and other gift items, year. During the season, music
carvings and bronzes made by while Tibet House has woollen and dance events are also held
artisans today. Superb pieces shawls, jackets, thangkas and at FICCI Auditorium, on the
of traditional jewellery, including carpets. For quality leather roundabout, Triveni Kala
kundan and meenakari, are goods, such as handmade shoes Sangam, on Tansen Marg,
available at Sundar Nagar and jackets, the many Chinese­ and at Azad Bhavan, the
market, especially at Bharany’s. owned outlets in Connaught main venue for performances
Silver jewellery, both traditional Place set the standards for organized by the state­run
and modern, can be found in comfort and durability. For ICCR. Excellent plays, in both
the gullies of Dariba Kalan in trendier goods there is Da Milano. Hindi and English, are held at
Chandni Chowk, and Sundar In Chandni Chowk’s Dariba the open­air auditorium of the
Nagar. Ravissant and Cooke & Kalan is Gulab Singh Johari Mal, National School of Drama,




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SHOPPING & ENTER T AINMENT IN DELHI  101


the main repertory company the city. Among the better can also be seen at various
at Bhawalpur House, and at equipped halls are PVR venues. Check newspapers for
the Shri Ram Centre nearby. Select Citywalk and details on location and tickets.
Colourful folk dances from DT Cinemas in Saket.
all over India, organized
by the Trade Fair Authority Performing Arts Exhibitions
of India, are held during the Major exhibitions are held at the
annual Trade India Fair in Delhi is the best place to National Museum, National
November, at Pragati Maidan, experience the range and Gallery of Modern Art, Art
the huge exhibition grounds richness of classical dance and Heritage and the Crafts Museum.
on Mathura Road. music. Performances by the These include special collections
Both the India Habitat best exponents of the major of rare sculpture and paintings
Centre and the India styles of Odissi, Kathak, Bharat from museums all over India,
International Centre, on Lodi Natyam and Kathakali take as well as from abroad. Recent
Road, organize a variety of place during the high season, years have seen exhibitions of
events including films, plays, between October and March. Picasso’s paintings, the Nizam of
concerts, exhibitions, lectures The same is true of concerts Hyderabad’s fabulous jewels and
and discussions. The mega Siri of Hindustani and Carnatic Mughal paintings from Queen
Fort Complex, in South Delhi, classical music. India’s vibrant Elizabeth II’s private collection.
is the venue for the majority folk dance and music traditions, Regular exhibitions of
of prestigious events. such as the devotional music contemporary art and craft,
Popular Indian and foreign of the Sufis, dance-dramas photography and graphics
films are screened at the many from Kerala, and puppet shows are also held in the many art
cinema halls dotted all over from Rajasthan and Karnataka, galleries around Mandi House.
DIRECTORY
Antiques, FabIndia Tibet House PVR Select Citywalk
Jewellery Greater Kailash I, 1 Institutional Area, Saket.
and Silver N-Block Market. Lodi Rd. Tel (011) 4060 1700.
Tel (011) 4669 3724. Tel (011) 2461 1515.
Bharany’s Shri Ram Centre
14, Sundar Nagar Market. Forest Essentials Tulsi Safdar Hashmi Marg.
Tel (011) 2435 8528. 45-B, Khan Market. Santushti. Tel (011) 2371 4307.
Tel (011) 4175 7057. Tel (011) 2687 0339.
Cooke & Kelvy Siri Fort Complex
3 Scindia House, Janpath. The Shop Entertainment Asian Village Complex.
Tel (011) 2331 3712. 10 Regal Building, Sansad Venues Tel (011) 2649 3370.
Marg, Connaught Place.
Lota (Crafts Museum) Tel (011) 2334 0971. Trade Fair Authority
Pragati Maidan. DT Cinemas of India
Tel (011) 2337 1269. Shyam Ahuja Saket. Pragati Maidan.
Santushti. Tel (011) 6147 5555. Tel (011) 2337 1540.
Ravissant Tel (011) 2467 0112.
New Friends India Habitat Centre Triveni Kala Sangam
Colony Market. Handicrafts Lodi Rd. 205 Tansen Marg.
Tel (011) 2683 7278. and Gifts Tel (011) 2468 2001. Tel (011) 2371 8833.
Textiles, Shawls Da Milano India International Exhibitions
Centre
and Carpets E-12, Connaught Place.
Tel (011) 2341 5490. 40 Lodi Estate, Max Art Heritage
Abraham & Thakore Good Earth Mueller Marg. 205 Tansen Marg, Triveni
D-16, 2nd Floor, Moonriver, 9 ABC, Khan Market. Tel (011) 2461 9431. Kala Sangam.
Defence Colony. Tel (011) 2464 7175. Indian Council for Tel (011) 2371 9470.
Tel 9871774436. Cultural Relations
Gulab Singh Johri Mal Crafts Museum
Anokhi Dariba Kalan, Azad Bhavan, IP Estate. Bhairon Marg,
Khan Market. Chandni Chowk. Tel (011) 2337 9309. Pragati Maidan.
Tel (011) 2460 3423. Tel (011) 2328 1345. Kamani Auditorium Tel (011) 2337 1641.
The Carpet Cellar Kamala Copernicus Marg. National Gallery
1 Anand Lok, August Rajiv Gandhi Handicrafts Tel (011) 4350 3351. of Modern Art
Kranti Marg. Bhavan, Baba Kharak Singh National School Jaipur House, India Gate.
Tel (011) 2626 1777. Marg. Tel (011) 2374 3322. of Drama Tel (011) 2338 6111.
Cottage Industries Mittal Tea House Bhawalpur House, National Museum
Janpath. 8-A, Lodi Colony Mkt. Bhagwan Das Rd. Janpath.
Tel (011) 2332 0439. Tel (011) 2461 5709. Tel (011) 2338 9402. Tel (011) 2301 9272.




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DELHI & THE NOR TH  103

HARYANA & PUNJAB

Haryana and Punjab cover the vast plains that stretch between the River
Indus and the Gangetic belt. Fertile soil and the improved agricultural
techniques of the 1960s Green Revolution (see p66) have made this region
the granary of India, producing more than half the wheat, rice and millet
grown in the country. Industrial development followed the success of the
Green Revolution, and the two states now also have flourishing dairy and wool-
based industries. Most visitors pass only briefly through Haryana and Punjab,
usually on their way to Himachal Pradesh, taking in en route the states’ two best-known
attractions: Chandigarh, the planned city built by the celebrated architect Le Corbusier, •
and the shared capital of Haryana and Punjab, and the Golden Temple at Amritsar,
the holiest shrine of the Sikhs. For those who care to explore further, there are the
for mer princely states of Patiala and Kapurthala, with their distinctive architecture,
and the holy dargahs at Panipat and Sirhind. Above all, the warmth and hospitality
of the people is this area’s special attraction.


Sights at a Glance
0 kilometres 100 Towns & Cities
•
Chamba
NH1A
0 miles 50 1 Surajkund
Pathankot • 2 Panipat
3 Chandigarh
NH20
4 Patiala
NH 15 NH1A 5 Sirhind
7 Kapurthala
Lahore • NH70 Temples & Holy Places
6 Anandpur Sahib
•
PAKISTAN Jalandhar 8 Amritsar
NH71 Sutlej
• Firozpur Ludhiana NH21
NH95 •
NH95
• Uttarkashi
NH1
NH72 Mussoorie
NH64 • •
Ambala
• • Bathinda Dehra Dun •
Abohar NH73
Kurukshetra • • Pipli Saharanpur
NH71 NH65 Yamuna • • Haridwar
NH15 Hanumangarh • Karnal •
NH10
•
Sirsa
•
• Jind Muzaffarnagar
• Hisar NH71A
Rohtak
• NH58 Moradabad
NH65 NH24 •
NH71 Delhi
•
•
Gurugram
NH93
Key NH2
National highway NH8 • Hodal Aligarh
Major road •
Major railway NH91
• Alwar Mathura
International border •
State border
The Golden Temple at sunset, Amritsar For keys to symbols see back flap
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104  DELHI & THE NOR TH


3 Chandigarh
Chandigarh district. 248 km (154 miles)
N of Delhi. * 1,054,700. ~ 8 km
(5 miles) S of city centre. £ @
n Interstate Bus Terminal, SCO
1064–65, Sector 22-B, (0172) 278 1138.
_ Rose Festival (Feb).
The state capital of both Haryana
and Punjab, Chandigarh was
Sufi saint Qalandar Shah’s dargah at Panipat, built in the 14th century built in the early 1950s by
the inter nationally renowned
1 Surajkund The older part of the town has architect Le Corbusier. It is
some interesting havelis, and considered the first modern city
Faridabad district. 21 km (13 miles)
S of Delhi. * 1,900. @ n Haryana a 14th-century tomb-shrine of post-Independent India and
Tourism, Chanderlok Building, 36 dedicated to the Sufi saint is laid out on a grid, divided
Janpath, New Delhi, (011) 2332 4910. Qalandar Shah. The new town evenly into 57 blocks or sectors.
_ Surajkund Crafts Mela (Feb). is a bustling settlement, strung Le Corbusier conceived the
along National Highway 1, city along the lines of a modular
Also known as the Lake of the which follows the route of man, with the Capitol Complex,
Sun, this historic reservoir, built the historic Grand Trunk Road which includes the Secretariat,
between the 10th and 11th (see p183). Today, Panipat is Assembly and High Court
centuries by King Surajpal of the well known for its furnishing buildings, as its “head”. The
Rajput Tomar dynasty, is today a fabrics and carpets. main shopping area, Sector 17,
popular picnic is the “heart” of Le Corbusier’s
spot. The original Environs plan, and is set around a
embankment of Karnal, 34 km central plaza and fountain,
stone terraces (21 miles) north lined with shops indicating
surrounding the of Panipat, lies that Chandigarh’s affluent
tank, specially at the heart of citizens are extremely fond
built to trap a rich pastoral of good food and clothes.
rainwater, still region and is Adjoining this sector is a gently
exists. Nearby, an an important undulating stretch of green,
artificial lake is Folk singers performing at the agricultural and the city’s “lungs”, with an
well-equipped Surajkund Crafts Mela cattle breeding enormous Rose Garden that
with boating centre. The is at its best in February. Over
facilities. The area comes alive in National Dairy Research Institute 1,000 varieties of colourful
the first two weeks of February, is situated here. Some 90 km roses bloom amidst winding
when an excellent crafts mela is (56 miles) north of Panipat, the paths, fountains and sprawling,
held here, with artisans from all pilgrim town of Kurukshetra is beautifully tended lawns.
over India selling their wares in a dotted with temples and marks The city’s extensive residential
specially created village. Puppets the mythical site of the epic sectors make up its “torso”,
from Rajasthan, bell metal beasts battle between the Pandavas with neat houses and gardens
from Odisha, and mirrorwork from and Kauravas, the heroes of showing impressive evidence
Gujarat are displayed alongside the Mahabharata (see p30). of the residents’ green fingers.
a variety of food stalls, while Each road is lined with a different
musicians and folk dancers weave species of flowering tree –
through the crowds, giving the laburnum, jacaranda, gulmohar –
fair a joyous, carnival air. adding colour to the cityscape.
Chandigarh’s Museum and
Art Gallery in Sector 10 houses
2 Panipat one of the country’s finest
collections of Gandharan
Panipat district. 89 km (55 miles)
N of Delhi. * 442,280. £ @ sculpture (see p47) and miniature
_ Urs of Qalandar Shah (Jul/Aug). paintings. Among the best
exhibits are a serene 6th-century
The site of three decisive battles Standing Bodhisattva in the
that changed the course of Gandharan style, and a rare
Indian history, including one 11th-century statue of Vishnu
which led to the founding of holding a conch shell from
the Mughal Empire (see pp54–5) Kashmir. The miniatures section
in 1526, Panipat is situated on has a comprehensive display of
a flat, dusty plain and traces Ritual prayers at the sacred temple tank Pahari paintings (see p125) from
its history to the epic age. at Kurukshetra the Kangra, Basohli and Guler
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp694–5 and p707


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HAR Y ANA & PUNJAB  105


Festivals of Haryana
& Punjab
Surajkund Crafts Mela
(1–15 Feb), Surajkund.
Craftsmen from all over
the country gather with
a selection of their wares,
from fabrics to folk toys.
Rose Festival (Feb),
Chandigarh. The city’s vast
Rose Garden hosts flower
shows and a weekend of
Chandigarh’s Capitol Complex, typical of Le Corbusier’s functional style dance and music.
Hola Mohalla (Mar/Apr),
schools, while modern art of Chandigarh’s prettiest areas, Anandpur Sahib. The high light
includes mountainscapes by especially in the evenings, when of this fair, held the day after
the Russian painter Nicholas visitors can enjoy dramatic sunsets Holi, is a spectacular display
Roerich (see p132). and views of the twinkling lights of fencing and tent-pegging,
Lying opposite the Capitol of the nearby hill station, Kasauli as the Nihang Sikhs show off
Complex, the Rock Garden is (see p117). their legendary martial and
one of the city’s most popular equestrian skills.
tourist spots. Spread over E Museum and Art Gallery
1.6 ha (4 acres) in Sector 1, Tel (0172) 274 2501/0261. Open 10am–
it was created in the 4:30pm Tue–Sun. &
1970s by an ex-road
inspector, Nek Chand, Environs
and is a refreshing The Pinjore
contrast to Le Gardens, lying 22 km
Corbusier’s severely (14 miles) north of
symmetrical Chandigarh, were
cityscape. The area designed in the 17th
encloses a unique Ceramic figures at Nek century by Fidai Khan,
“kingdom”, a labyrinth Chand’s Rock Garden foster brother of
with hills, waterfalls the Mughal emperor Skilled swordsmanship at the Hola
and caves, and serried ranks Aurangzeb. They are terraced Mohalla festivities
of sculptures crafted from such in the Mughal style and dotted
unlikely material as discarded with domed pavilions, fountains
neon lights, fuse switches, and water chutes. Sanghol, 40 km Baisakhi (13 Apr). Several
broken crockery and glass. (25 miles) west of Chandigarh, gala processions, dancing
and feasting take place all
A short distance away is the has an excavated site of a over Punjab to mark the
man-made Sukhna Lake, where 2nd-century Buddhist stupa spring equinox and the
a pleasant promenade attracts with an interesting museum beginning of the harvest.
joggers and walkers. This is one of Kushana sculptures. Lively melas are held at all
the major gurdwaras.
Le Corbusier’s City Qalandar Shah’s Urs
(Jul/Aug), Panipat. This
In 1950, India’s first prime minister, festival honours the Sufi
Jawaharlal Nehru, commissioned the saint Qalandar Shah with
French-Swiss architect Charles Édouard qawwali singing and a
Jeanneret (“Le Corbusier”), to create colourful fair at his shrine.
a new capital for Punjab, as the old capital, Guru Purab (Nov).
Lahore, had become a part of Pakistan Celebrated across Punjab
after Independence in 1947. The result on the first full moon night
was a city of concrete blocks and straight after Diwali (see p41), the
arterial roads, projecting Le Corbusier’s birthday of Guru Nanak,
philosophy of functional efficiency, free the founder of Sikhism,
of unnecessary ornamentation such as
The “open hand”, domes and arches. Without any crowded is particularly spectacular
Chandigarh’s emblem bazaars, Chandigarh lacks the typical at the Golden Temple at
bustle and vitality of older Indian towns, Amritsar. Thousands of
and some of Le Corbusier’s buildings now look weather-beaten. lamps illuminate the
Yet it remains one of the country’s cleanest and most orderly temple every night from
cities, and this, perhaps, is Le Corbusier’s lasting legacy. Diwali onwards.





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106  DELHI & THE NOR TH


over to the National Institute of
Sports, and the large pleasure
pool, where the maharaja
once watched dancing girls
cavorting, has been converted
into a wrestling pit.
In the north of the city
are the Baradari Gardens, laid
out in the late 19th century by
Prince Rajinder Singh, an avid
horticulturist, who also created a
rock garden and fern house here.
The splendid Kali Temple, which
is located within the walled city,
has a large marble image of Kali,
The splendid Durbar Hall at the Qila Mubarak, Patiala brought here all the way from
Makrana in Rajasthan.
4 Patiala hand-crafted leather shoes
(jutties), tasselled silken braids E Durbar Hall Museum
Patiala district. 63 km (39 miles) SW Open Tue–Sun. ^ without
of Chandigarh. * 406,000. £ @ (pirandis) and brightly
_ Basant (Feb). ( Mon–Sat. embroidered phulkari fabric. permission. &
The enormous Old Moti Bagh P Old Moti Bagh Palace
Patiala, situated between the Palace, completed in the early Open Tue–Sun. &
Satluj and Ghaggar rivers, was years of the 20th century in
formerly a princely state, ruled the Indo-Saracenic style, has
by a string of flamboyant rulers as many as 15 dining halls. 5 Sirhind
in the 19th century who Counted as one of the largest Fatehgarh Sahib district. 55 km
made its name a byword for residences in Asia, it is set (34 miles) SW of Chandigarh.
everything larger than life. amidst terraced gardens and * 61,000. £ @ n Punjab Tourism,
Thus, the “Patiala Peg” water channels, (01763) 22 9170. _ Urs at Rauza
is a whopping inspired by Mughal Sharif (Aug), Shaheedi Jor Mela (Dec).
measure of whisky, gardens. The terraces
the Patiala salwar lead to the Sheesh The town of Sirhind was one of
three times the width Mahal, where the the most important settlements
of an ordinary one, Art Gallery displays in North India between the 16th
and the gargantuan miniature paintings, and 18th centuries. Once the
palace, to quote an rare manuscripts, capital of the Pathan Sur sultans,
overawed English objets d’art, and the ruins of whose massive fort
visitor, “makes A typical phulkari motif hunting trophies can still be seen, Sirhind was
Versailles look like a from the former royal also a favourite halting place
cottage”. Its rulers were also collection. Pride of place is for the Mughal emperors on
enthusiastic patrons of given to a collection of medals, their annual journeys to Kashmir.
the arts, architecture and some awarded to, and some In the 11th century, Mahmud
sports, and the city’s gracious collected by, the former rulers. of Ghazni (see p52) expanded
ambience, and its rich folk The Art Gallery overlooks a large his empire up to this area, thus
crafts owe a great deal to their tank flanked by two towers, giving the town its name, which
generous encouragement. with a rope suspension bridge in Persian means “Frontier
The present city has grown to connect them. The main of India”.
around the Qila Mubarak, a fort palace has now been given The Mughals constructed
built in 1763. Its oldest part, Qila several beautiful buildings
Androon, though derelict, has here, in the area now called
traces of fine wall paintings. The Aam Khas Bagh, which today
Durbar Hall, added later, stands is a tourist complex run by
to the right of the entrance the government. Especially
gates and is now a museum interesting is the Royal Hamam,
with a beautifully ornamented a complex structure for hot
ceiling and well-preserved and cold baths that uses
murals. Inside it is a spectacular water drawn from wells nearby
display of cannons and arms, through an intricate system
including the sword of the of hand pulleys. Close to the
Persian ruler Nadir Shah (see baths are the ruins of Shah
p56) who invaded India in 1739. Jahan’s double-storeyed
The lively bazaar around the Hand-embroidered jutties on sale in palace, the Daulat Mahal, and
fort offers the city’s famous Patiala’s bazaar the better-preserved Sheesh
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp694–5 and p707


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HAR Y ANA & PUNJAB  107


here that the severed head of
the ninth guru, Tegh Bahadur,
was brought to be cremated,
at a site now marked by the
Sisganj Sahib Gurdwara. The
gurdwara also marks the place
where the tenth and last guru,
Gobind Singh, founded the
Khalsa, or “Army of the Pure”, in
1699, along with five volunteers
to help him defend the faith.
The Kesgarh Sahib Gurdwara,
which was built to commem-
orate this event, is regarded as
one of the five takhts or principal
Rauza Sharif, Sahaikh Ahmad Faruqi Sirhindi’s dargah in Sirhind seats of the Sikh religion – the
others are at Amritsar (see pp108–
Mahal, whose walls still have Sharif, it is considered as holy 109), Nanded in Maharashtra,
traces of the original tilework as the Dargah Sharif in Ajmer Talwandi Sabo in Punjab and
and decorative plaster. (see p380). Standing close to Patna (see p218) in Bihar.
To the north of Aam Khas it is a striking tomb from A week-long celebration
Bagh is the white Fatehgarh the same period, the was held here in 1999,
Sahib Gurdwara, standing Mausoleum of Mir to mark the 300th anni-
in the midst of bright yellow Miran, son-in-law of one versary of the Khalsa.
mustard fields, which bloom of the Lodi kings. Also of A series of forts
in January. It was built to interest is the Salavat Beg surround Anandpur Sahib
honour the memory of the Haveli, a fascinating on all sides – Lohagarh
martyred sons of the tenth and exceptionally Fort was used as the
Sikh guru, Gobind Singh, who well-preserved armoury of the
were walled in alive at this example of a large A Nihang Sikh in Khalsa army, while
spot by the Mughal emperor Mughal-era house. full regalia Fatehgarh Fort guarded
Aurangzeb in 1705, for the route between Delhi
refusing to convert to Islam. P Aam Khas Bagh and Lahore, and Taragarh Fort
Adjacent to the gurdwara is Open Tue–Sun. protected it from attacks by the
an important pilgrimage site hill states lying to the north.
for Muslims, the tomb-shrine Anandpur Sahib comes to
of the Sufi saint and theo logian, 6 Anandpur Sahib life every year during the Hola
Shaikh Ahmad Faruqi Sirhindi, Roopnagar district. 73 km (45 miles) Mohalla festival (see p105),
who is also known as Mujaddad- NW of Chandigarh. * 16,000. £ @ when thousands of devotees
al-Saini (“The Reformer of the _ Hola Mohalla (Mar/Apr). congregate here to watch
Millennium”). This magnificent the blue-robed Nihang Sikhs,
octagonal structure, with its Guarded by the Shivalik Hills descendants of the gurus’
dome covered in glazed blue and a ring of imposing forts, personal guards, display their
tiles, was built in the 16th Anandpur Sahib is a complex of formidable martial and
century. Known as the Rauza historic Sikh gurdwaras. It was equestrian skills.
Sikhism
With their characteristic turbans and full beards, Sikh men are
easy to identify. The Sikh religion is a reformist faith, founded by Guru
Nanak in the 15th century. Strongly opposed to idol worship, rituals
and the caste system, it believes in a formless God. Sikhism is also
called the Gurmat, meaning “the Guru’s Doctrine”, and Sikh temples
are known as gurdwaras, literally “doors to the guru”. Nanak, the first
of a series of ten gurus, chose his successor from among his most
devout disciples. Gobind Singh (1666–1708), the tenth and last guru,
reorganized the community in 1699 as a military order, the Khalsa, to
combat religious persecution by the Mughals. He gave the Sikh
community a distinctive religious identity, and from then onwards
they were meant to wear the Khalsa’s five symbols: kesh (long hair),
kachha (underwear), kirpan (small sword), kangha (comb) and kara
A mid-19th-century painting of Guru (bracelet). Their holy book, the Guru Granth Sahib, is kept in the
Nanak with his disciples Golden Temple (see pp110–11).





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108  DELHI & THE NOR TH


8 Amritsar
Amritsar district. 227 km (141 miles)
NW of Chandigarh. * 2,491,000.
k 12 km (7 miles) NW of city centre.
£ @ n (91) 97811 30666 (tourist
helpline). _ Guru Purab (Nov).
Founded in 1577 by the fourth
Sikh guru, Ram Das, Amritsar
was built on a site donated by
the Mughal emperor Akbar.
Detail of a marble sculpture, Jagajit Palace, Kapurthala Located in the heart of the
city is the Golden Temple (see
7 Kapurthala the maharaja went through pp110–11), the Sikh community’s
a Spanish phase, which found holiest shrine, surrounded by a
Kapurthala district. 165 km (103 miles)
NW of Chandigarh. * 818,000. £ @ expression in the Buena Vista maze of lanes and 18 fortified
Hunting Lodge. Located on gateways. In 1984, parts of
This former princely state owes the outskirts of the town, it is the Golden Temple were badly
its extraordinary architectural occupied by his descen dants. damaged during an army
heritage to the eccentric Another impressive sight is operation to flush out extremists
Maharaja Jagatjit Singh, who the town’s Moorish Mosque. holed up inside, and, who were
created amidst the rich Inspired by the grand Qutubiya demanding a separate Sikh
agricultural fields of Punjab, Mosque in Marrakesh, this homeland. It has now been
a corner that will be forever was designed by yet another repaired and carefully restored
France. In 1906, this passionate French architect employed to its original glory.
Francophile, commissioned a by Jagatjit Singh. Its inner The temple complex is
French architect to build him a dome has been beautifully actually a city within a city, and
palace modelled on Versailles, painted by Punjabi artists. the main entrance is through
with elements of Fontainebleau its northern gateway, known
and the Louvre added on. This P Jagatjit Palace as the Darshani Deorhi, which
amazing structure, which he Open Tue–Sun. & also houses the Central Sikh
grandly named the Elysée Museum. On display are
Palace (now the Jagatjit Palace), paintings, coins, manuscripts
sits amidst gardens embellished and arms, which combine to
with stone statuary and create a vivid picture of Sikh
fountains, and is surrounded history. Steps lead down to the
by villas which were built for Parikrama (marble pathway),
his officials and modelled on which encircles the Amrit
those that were in vogue in Sarovar (“Pool of Nectar”, after
the suburbs of Paris in the late which the town is named), and
19th century. The palace is the main shrine, the golden-
now a school, but the building domed Harmandir Sahib
with its ornate interiors and (“Temple of God”). Several
Renaissance-style painted holy and historic sites line the
ceilings, is open to public. The Jagatjit Palace at Kapurthala, modelled Parikrama, among them a tree
After this palace was built, on Versailles in France shrine called the Gurdwara
Dukh Bhanjani Ber, said to
have miraculous powers for
Maharaja Ranjit Singh healing diseases, and the
Maharaja Ranjit Singh was one of North India’s most remarkable Ath-Sath Tirath, which
rulers. By persuading rival Sikh chieftains to unite, he established represents 68 of the holiest
the first Sikh kingdom of the Punjab. A military genius, his strong Hindu pilgrim shrines.
army kept both the British and ambitious Afghan invaders at bay, The Parikrama continues on
making Punjab a prosperous centre of trade and industry. A devout to the Sri Akal Takhat Sahib,
Sikh who did much to embellish the the seat of the Sikh religious
Golden Temple, the one-eyed Ranjit order. Its construction began
Singh was an enlightened ruler who in 1589 and was completed in
liked to say “God intended me to look 1601 by the sixth guru, Guru
at all religions with one eye”. A decade Hargobind, when he began
after his death, the British annexed organizing the Sikh community
the Punjab and seized his fabulous into a political entity. The upper
Maharaja Ranjit Singh treasures, including the famous floors were built by Maharaja
(r.1790–1839) Kohinoor diamond. Ranjit Singh. As part of the daily
ritual, the Holy Book of the
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp694–5 and p707


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Date 12th July 2013
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HAR Y ANA & PUNJAB  109





















Golden Temple complex, with the central shrine and main entrance
Sikhs, the Guru Granth Sahib, is palanquin back to the Sri Akal on the orders of General
carried out of the Sri Akal Takhat Takhat Sahib. The floors of the Reginald Dyer, who arrived
Sahib to the Harmandir Sahib temple are then washed with heading a platoon of infantry
at daybreak. The head priest milk and water, before the doors from Jalandhar. It was an event
then opens it for the vaq, the of the Darshani Deorhi are closed. that helped to hasten the end
message for the day. From A few other shrines are found of British rule in India. A memorial
dawn till late at night the just outside the Temple complex. to those killed stands at the
temple echoes with These include a shrine eastern end.
the music of ragis, dedicated to Guru
musicians employed Hargobind Singh, Environs
by the temple trust to as well as the nine- The last checkpost on the
sing verses from the storeyed Baba Atal Indian border with Pakistan
Holy Book. Every Tower which marks is at Wagah, 29 km (18 miles)
visitor (including non- the spot where Atal Rai, from Amritsar. Each evening,
Sikhs) entering the son of Hargobind, as buglers sound the last post,
Harmandir Sahib is attained martyrdom. two splendidly uniformed
given a dollop of The 16th-century guards on either side of the
sweet prasad (holy Memorial, Durgiana Temple, border goose step across
offering), and no visit Jallianwala Bagh visited by Hindus, is to the flagpoles to lower their
is considered truly dedicated to Durga. respective national flags. Their
complete without a meal at the It lies 2 km (1 mile) northeast of steps are matched so perfectly
Guru ka Langar, a free kitchen the Golden Temple. that it is like watching a mirror
where all visitors are fed a Jallianwala Bagh, also a image of the same exercise.
simple meal of dal-roti (lentil short distance from the Golden The ceremony, which attracts
curry and bread). Run by Temple, is the site of an infamous crowds of spectators on both
volunteers, this kitchen can massacre that took place in sides, is a poignant reminder of
feed 10,000 people a day. 1919. Hundreds of unarmed the Partition of 1947 (see p60),
Its vast hall, which can seat demonstrators were gunned when Punjab was divided
3,000 people at a time, serves down in this enclosed garden between two nations.
as a symbol of the caste-free,
egalitarian society that the
Sikh gurus strove to create. The
notion of kar-seva (voluntary
manual labour for a cause) is
an important part of the Sikh
order. Tasks such as sweeping
the temple precincts, cooking
at the langar or looking after
the pilgrims’ shoes, are
enthusiastically performed by
volunteers. The final evening
prayers are over by 9:45pm,
when the Holy Book is reverently
closed and carried in a silver Ceremonial guards outside the Sri Akal Takhat Sahib




108-109_EW_India.indd 109 26/04/17 11:43 am

110  DELHI & THE NOR TH


Amritsar: The Golden Temple
The spiritual centre of the Sikh religion, the
Golden Temple was built between 1589 and 1601
and is a superb synthesis of Islamic and Hindu
styles of architecture. In keeping with the syncretic
tradition of those times, its foundation stone was
laid by a Muslim saint, Mian Mir. It was virtually
destroyed in 1761 by an Afghan invader, Ahmed
Shah Abdali, but was rebuilt in 1764 by Jassa
Singh Ahluwalia with the help of other Sikh misls.
In the early 19th century, Maharaja Ranjit Singh, First Floor
ruler of Punjab, covered the dome in gold and The marble walls have pietra dura inlay and
embellished its interiors with lavish decoration. decorative plasterwork, bearing animal
and flower motifs covered in gold leaf.

. Sheesh Mahal
The Hall of Mirrors on
the top floor has a
curved bangaldar
roof, and its floors are
swept with a special
broom made of
peacock feathers.

Harmandir Sahib
The holiest site for Sikhs, the three-
storeyed temple, decorated with
superb pietra dura, is where the
Holy Book is kept during the day.




























. Guru Granth Sahib
Covered by a jewelled canopy, the Holy Book
lies in the Durbar Sahib (“Court of the Lord”).
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp694–5 and p707


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Date 24th April 2013
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HAR Y ANA & PUNJAB  111

Sri Akal Takhat Sahib
The seat of the VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
supreme governing
body of the Sikhs, Practical Information
it houses the gurus’ Circular Rd. n Information
swords and flagstaffs, as Bureau, (0183) 255 3954.
well as the Holy Book Open daily. Photography allowed
at night. outside shrines. Visitors must
remove their shoes, wash their
feet & cover their heads with a scarf
at the entrance. Alcohol & tobacco
are forbidden within the complex.








KEY
1 The lower wall of the temple is
made of white marble.
2 The dome, shaped like an
inverted lotus, is covered in 100 kg
(220 lbs) of gold donated by Ranjit
Singh in 1830.
3 Darshani Deorhi is a gateway,
which provides the first glimpse of
the temple’s inner sanctum. It has
two splendid silver doors and sacred
verses carved on its walls.
4 Sri Akal Takhat Sahib
5 Amrit Sarovar, the pool where
Sikhs are baptized, was built in 1577
by Ram Das, the fourth guru.


The Causeway
The 60-m (197-ft) long marble
causeway is flanked by nine gilded
lamps on each side, and leads to the
temple across the Amrit Sarovar.
6
Golden Temple Complex 8
1 Temple Office 7
2 Cloakrooms 5 Parikrama
3 Darshani Darwaza and Clock Tower
4 Harmandir Sahib 2 9
5 Ath-Sath Tirath (68 Shrines) Parikrama
6 Guru ka Langar (Dining Hall)
7 Baba Karak Singh’s Residence
8 Assembly Hall Central Sikh Museum 4
9 Baba Deep Singh’s Shrine
10 Darshani Deorhi 3 Parikrama
11 Arjun Dev’s Tree 1
12 Sri Akal Takhat Sahib Key 15
13 Nishan Sahibs (Flagstaffs) Area illustrated above
14 Gobind Singh’s Shrine 10 Parikrama
15 Beri Baba Buddhaji 0 metres 50 13 11
(Tree Shrine) 0 yards 50
14 12




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Date 5th December 2012
Size 125mm x 217mm

DELHI & THE NOR TH  113

HIMACHAL PRADESH

Himachal, the “Abode of Snow”, covers over 56,000 sq km (21,622 sq miles)
of the Western Himalayas. The state’s terrain rises from the foothills of the
Shivaliks bordering the plains of Punjab, and extends to the trans-Himalayan
heights of the Zanskar Range, bordering Ladakh and Tibet. Himachal’s capital,
Shimla, famous as the summer capital of the British Raj, remains a popular
desti nation for visitors. Manali, the state’s other big hill station, is in the heart of
the idyllic Kullu Valley. Watered by the Beas river, it is an excellent base for treks
and excursions. West of Kullu, with the magnificent Dhauladhar Range as its backdrop,
is the Kangra Valley, dotted with apple orchards. Its main town is Dharamsala, home
to the Dalai Lama and a vibrant Tibetan community, and the seat of the Tibetan
Government-in-Exile. In the eastern part of the state is Kinnaur with its green pastures
and enchanting villages, while Lahaul and Spiti to the north are lands of rugged
grandeur, with Buddhist monasteries clinging to steep, rocky cliffs.

Sights at a Glance
Towns & Cities e Dalhousie q Kangra Valley
5 Nahan r Chamba y Kullu Valley
6 Rampur t Bharmour u Parvati Valley
7 Sarahan o Manali p Lahaul and Spiti
0 Mandi Monasteries National Parks
Hill Stations & Areas of a Tabo Monastery i Great Himalayan
Natural Beauty Valleys & Districts National Park
1 Shimla 9 Kinnaur Tours
2 Chail 8 Sangla Valley Tour
3 Narkanda
4 Kasauli 0 kilometres 50
w Dharamsala Chenab Pattan Valley 0 miles 50
Udaipur
Trilokinath Darcha
Keylong
Tandi
Pir Panjal Range
Hansa
Khajjiar Rohtang Pass
Pathankot Manimahesh
Lake
Kotla Gaggal Kaza
Dhauladhar Range
Masroor Naggar
Palampur NH 20
Beas Beas Manikaran
Jogindernagar
Jwalamukhi
NH1A
NH70 Rewalsar Rekong Peo
Jalandhar Govind Sagar NH 21 Sutlej NH 22 Chitkul
Bilaspur
NH 70
Naldera
Yamunotri
NH 88
Kufri
Gangotri
Solan
Key
Uttarkashi
National highway Chandigarh
Major road NH 72
Mussoorie
Minor road Ambala
Railway Dehra Dun
International border
State border
The Lahaul Valley with the Himalayas in the background For keys to symbols see back flap
112-113_EW_India.indd 113 26/04/17 11:43 am

114  DELHI & THE NOR TH

1 Shimla lady in the late 19th century from
this spot by a Maharaja of Patiala
A popular hill station in North India, Shimla’s spectacular (see p106). Nearby are the timber-
location, thickly forested slopes and invigorating climate framed Post Office, the Town Hall
have attracted countless visitors since the small village and the jewel-like Gaiety Theatre,
was discovered by Captain Charles Kennedy in the early opened in 1887, and still a popular
venue for amateur dramatics; the
19th century. In 1864, it became the summer headquarters theatre has recently been restored
of the British government in India. Today it is the fast- to its Victorian glory. A favoured
growing capital of Himachal Pradesh. Though many pastime for both local residents
of the surrounding spurs and forests are now covered and visitors is to stroll along
with concrete buildings, Shimla still retains much of The Mall, from Scandal Point
to Combermere Bridge. Further
its colonial charm.
ahead on this stretch lies the
mock-Tudor Clarkes Hotel.
= Lower Bazaar
Shops: Open Mon–Sat.
Below the central section of
The Mall is the Lower Bazaar,
which Kipling once referred
to as “that crowded rabbit
warren catering to the native
population of Shimla”. Offering
the option of cheaper wares
and less fashionable hostelries
and eating places, it remains
the poor man’s Mall. Lower still
is the Ganj, a congested bazaar,
Christ Church and the Library on the Ridge where the town’s wholesale
trade in groceries takes place.
P The Ridge = The Mall This, more than any other part
N of The Mall. Shops: Open Mon–Sat. No vehicles of town, retains a flavour of
A popular promenade and the permitted in the core shopping area. times gone by. Customers
centre of Shimla’s busy social This 7-km (4-mile) long mingle in crowded lanes
and cultural scene, the Ridge, thoroughfare, running from redolent with the aroma of
situated at a height of 2,230 m Boileauganj in the west to the many spices on display.
(7,316 ft), is an open stretch of Chhota Shimla in the southeast,
land on the western shoulder demarcates the original limits of E State Museum
of Jakhu Hill. From here, the the town. The central section of Chaura Maidan. Tel (0177) 280 5044.
snowcapped peaks of the The Mall, flanked by rows of half- Open Tue–Sun. Closed public hols.
Himalayan Range stretch in an timbered buildings, has always ^ &
arc across the northern horizon. been, and still remains, its most The State Museum, housed in
Ceremonial parades and official fashionable area with a profusion a restored and expanded Raj
state functions are also held here. of restaurants, bars and upmarket building called Inverarm, was
shops. The Mall’s highest spot, opened to the public in 1974. It
R Christ Church Scandal Point, is marked by a has, since then, built up a fairly
Open daily. 5 8am, 11am Sun. statue of Lala Lajpat Rai, the good collection of almost 10,000
Contact caretaker if church is closed. famous freedom fighter. The so- artifacts from various parts of
Dominating the eastern end called “scandal” may refer to the Himachal Pradesh. The exhibits,
of the Ridge is the Gothic reputed abduction of an English displayed in 15 galleries, include
Christ Church, a prominent
landmark. Constructed in
1846, it was one of the first
churches built in North India.
Its fine stained-glass windows
and impressive organ were
acquired in the 19th century.
The now-absent fresco around
the chancel window was
designed by Lockwood
Kipling, Rudyard Kipling’s
father. Shimla’s mock-Tudor
Library is nearby. The interior of the Gaiety Theatre, a focal point of Shimla’s cultural life
For hotels and restaurants in this region see p695 and p707


114-115_EW_India.indd 114 26/04/17 11:43 am
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Date 25th April 2013
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HIM A CHAL PR ADESH  115


stone sculptures dating from the simian hands rifling through VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
6th to 11th centuries, belonging their pockets and belongings.
to the Gupta and Pratihara Practical Information
periods, and a collection of Kangra P Viceregal Lodge Shimla district. 375 km (233 miles)
miniatures (see p125), based on The Mall. Tel (0177) 283 1375. N of Delhi. * 392,500. n HP
the seasons (Baramasa), musical Open Tue–Sun. & ^ Tourism, The Mall, (0177) 265
modes (Ragamala) and episodes The most imposing British-built 8302. _ Sipi Fair (May). Travel
from the Gita Govinda, a devo- building in Shimla is the former permits: Required for some areas
tional poem. Most impres sive, Viceregal Lodge. Situated of Himachal (see p119). Contact
however, is a spectacular series atop Observatory Hill, this grey Deputy Commissioner, (0177)
265 3535.
of mid-19th-century wall stone structure in the English
paintings from Chamba. Renaissance style was built under Transport
the guidance of Lord Dufferin in ~ 21 km (13 miles) W of Shimla.
 Jakhu Hill Temple 1888, as a suitable summer £ @
Jakhu Hill. Open daily. residence for the viceroys of
The forested dome of Jakhu Hill, India. Well-maintained gardens
at 2,450 m (8,038 ft) is the highest surround the stately mansion a distance. It is now called
point in Shimla. At its peak stands on three sides. The interior is as Rashtrapati Niwas and houses
a temple dedicated to the impressive, with two rows of the Indian Institute of Advanced
monkey god, Hanuman. balconies overlooking the mag- Study. Only the entrance hall, a
A 33-m (108-ft) high statue of nificent teak-panelled entrance couple of rooms on the ground
Hanuman towers over the temple. hall. A bronze plaque behind the floor, a picture gallery and the
According to the epic Ramayana building lists the peaks visible at gardens are open to the public.
(see p31), Hanuman rested here
during his journey to fetch the
Sanji vini herb from the Himalayas
to save the wounded Lakshman’s
life. A steep 2 km (1 mile) climb
from the Ridge to the summit
through deodar and oak forests
offers panoramic views of Shimla
and its suburbs. Monkeys are a
common sight all over Shimla,
but Jakhu is their kingdom.
Visitors should watch out for The stately Viceregal Lodge, set amid manicured lawns

Shimla City Centre
1 The Ridge 0 metres 200
2 Christ Church 200
3 The Mall 0 yards
4 Lower Bazaar


C I R C U L A R R O A D Mashobra,
Naldehra
Annandale Rivoli R I D G E S A N J A U L I R O A D
Bus Stand
VICTORY TUNNEL M A L L RO A D Scandal Town Gaiety The
Hall
Point
Theatre
Ridge
Mall
Church
Boileauganj, Road M A L L R O A D Christ
State Museum, Jakhu Hill
Viceregal Lodge Temple
Lower
Airport Bazaar
21 km (13 miles) C A R T R O A D
Shimla
Railway
Local
Station Bus Stand Lift R A J B H A V A N R O A D
Chhota
Shimla
For keys to symbols see back flap
114-115_EW_India.indd 115 26/04/17 11:43 am

116  DELHI & THE NOR TH

















Kufri, under a heavy blanket of snow in winter
Exploring Shimla of Chhota Shimla. Deeper into sloping meadows and fringed by
the hills and along the same deodar and blue pine. A British
The best way to explore Shimla ridge system as Shimla, are a legacy dating from the 19th cen-
is to walk along the many number of places to visit. At tury, the golf course was designed
meandering roads and byways. Charabra, 13 km (8 miles) north by the viceroy, Lord Curzon. About
Beyond the centre (see pp114– of Shimla, Wildflower Hall, the 16 km (10 miles) east of Shimla, is
15), the glade of Annandale is former retreat of the Commander- the picturesque little village of
accessed by a sharp slope and in-Chief, Lord Kitchner, is now a Kufri, which is at an altitude
is 5 km (3 miles) northwest of plush hotel of 2,650 m (8,694 ft). Kufri’s small
the Ridge. During the (see p695). zoo, the Himalayan Nature
Raj, several social About 10 km Park, counts the Himalayan
and sporting events (6 miles) north black bear and the musk deer
such as fancy fairs, along the old among its residents.
races and cricket Hindustan-Tibet
matches were held (HT) Road, just above the O Seog Wildlife Sanctuary
here. Today, it has a diversion to the left leading For permission contact: Divisional
nine-hole golf course to the village of Forest Officer, Shimla Municipal
and a fine museum Musk deer in the Himalayan Mashobra, a gravel Corporation. Tel (0177) 265 2911. &
of army history. The Nature Park road barred by a O Himalayan Nature Park
Glen, another popular gate to the right, Kufri. Open daily. &
picnic spot is further west. Both indicates the entrance to the
can be reached by a road that Seog Wildlife Sanctuary and
branches off near the Oberoi the old Seog rest house. The 2 Chail
Cecil. This grand colonial sanctuary, accessible with Solan district. 45 km (28 miles) SE of
structure, built on a precipice, is permits only, is home to local Shimla. @ n Hotel Chail Palace,
reminiscent of Raj-era luxury. A species of wildlife, including (01792) 248 141.
4-km (2-mile) long forest road, deer, hill fox and monal
starting from Christ Church on pheasants. At Mashobra, a steep This tiny hill station is situated
the Ridge, continues along the forest pathway leads to a lovely on a wooded ridge at a similar
wooded slopes of Jakhu Hill. This little temple dedicated to a local altitude to Shimla. Chail was
road winds southeast to end deity, set in a grove of deodars. developed as the summer capital
near one of Shimla’s oldest The annual Sipi Fair is held here. of the Patiala maharajas (see p106)
educational institutions, St Bede’s Further up is the temple of Sipur. in the 1920s. Chail Palace, a stone
College for Women, en route Continuing north from mansion occupying a flattened
overlooking the quaint bazaar Mashobra, 3-km (2-mile) along a hilltop, amid beautiful orchards
motor road, is the and garden, is now a deluxe
Carignano Rest hotel. The cricket pitch, near the
House. Once the top of a hill, is said to be one of
home of an Italian the highest in the world. The
chef, the Chevalier Patiala rulers, enthusiastic
Peliti, it commands cricketers themselves, invited
superb views from the Marylebone Cricket Club (the
its hilltop garden. MCC) to play here in 1933. Walks
Further north through the deodar forests of the
(10 km/6 miles) is Chail Wildlife Sanctuary, where
Naldehra with a Scottish red deer were introduced,
nine-hole golf are the best way to discover
Naldehra’s scenic golf course course set amidst Chail’s natural beauty.
For hotels and restaurants in this region see p695 and p707


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HIM A CHAL PR ADESH  117

4 Kasauli
Festivals of
Solan district. 77 km (48 miles) Himachal Pradesh
SW of Shimla. * 5,000. @
Shivratri (Feb/Mar), Mandi.
The closest hill station to the Local deities are carried down
plains, Kasauli offers the charm from the surrounding hills on
of quiet walks shaded by chir elaborately decorated palanquins,
pine, oak and horse chestnut to pay homage to Lord Shiva at
trees. It is at its best just after the Bhootnath Temple.
the monsoon, when colourful
dahlias cover the hillsides. Summer Festival (May/Jun),
As an army canto nment, Shimla and Dharamsala. This
restrictions imposed by the festival coincides with the
A temple on Hatu Peak, a day’s hike authorities have prevented tourist season and attracts
from Narkanda the old town from being taken singers and dancers.
over by concrete modern
3 Narkanda structures. As a result, old-
fashioned buildings with Minjar (Jul/Aug), Chamba.
Shimla district. 64 km (40 miles) Maize shoots or minjars,
N of Shimla. @ gable roofs and wooden strung on silken threads,
balconies remain intact on are cast into the Ravi river
Narkanda, at a height of the Upper and Lower malls, at the start of this week-long
2,750 m (9,022 ft), stands on the two main streets that run festival to seek blessings for
the HT Road, as it winds along right through the town. a bountiful harvest.
the edges of the ridge-line Monkey Point, the highest
dividing the Satluj and spot in the town, is
Yamuna catchments. 4 km (2 miles) from the Manimahesh Yatra (Aug/Sep),
From here, the Himalayan bus station. From here Bharmour. The pilgrimage to
peaks are even closer, and there are clear views of the sacred Manimahesh Lake
draws thousands of Hindu
the walks through dense Shimla, the meandering devotees. Its waters are believed
temperate forests, where Satluj and Chandigarh. to cleanse the sins of a lifetime.
spruce, fir and high- A 5-km (3-mile) trail
altitude oak take over from Kasauli leads to
from the deodar and the Lawrence School at Dussehra (Sep/Oct), Kullu
blue pine, are quite Sanawar, a public school (see pp130–31).
spectacular. The best Postbox founded by Sir Henry
walk is the 6-km (4-mile) in Kasauli Lawrence (see p201) in 1847. Lavi Fair (Nov), Rampur.
hike to Hatu Peak (3,300 Products from remote
m/10,827 ft), which is crowned Environs Tibet and Ladakh were once
by a temple dedicated to About 60 km (37 miles) to bartered with those from the
Hateshwari Devi. The area the northeast of Kasauli is plains and lower hills at this
around Narkanda is lush with Nalagarh, the seat of the for mer fair. Today, woollen goods and
apple orchards. In winter, the princely state of Hindur. The pashmina from Tibet, chilgoza
slopes are ideal for skiing. You palace is now a heritage hotel nuts and shawls from Kinnaur
can also drive to the top. called the Nalagarh Fort Resort. and horses from Spiti are
briskly traded.
Hill Stations Renuka Fair (Nov), near Nahan.
By the late 19th century, when the British had consolidated their People from the surrounding
rule in India, families began to come over from Britain to join villages gather at the shores of
their menfolk. In the years that followed, more than 80 settlements the Renuka Lake to celebrate
were established in the lower hill ranges, as summer retreats for the completion of the harvest,
the burgeoning expatriate population, keen to escape the intense at this fair.
heat of the plains. Hill stations
endeavoured to recreate a way
of life reminiscent of the home
country, complete with half-
timbered houses, clubs, churches,
hospitals, parks with bandstands
and a main street invariably
known as The Mall. Boarding
schools, with excellent teaching
facilities, were also set up for
Kennedy’s Cottage, by Captain J Luard, children, who were unable to Colourful Kinnauri shawls on sale at
Shimla, 1822 go back to study in England. the Lavi Fair, Rampur





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118  DELHI & THE NOR TH


Trekking in Himachal Pradesh

This mountainous state, with its vast variety of terrains,
offers a wide range of treks from easy one-day hikes to week-
long routes. At lower altitudes, trails wind through forests of HIMACHAL
oak, deodar (Cedrus deodara) and pine, while steeper climbs PRADESH
lead to flower-strewn alpine meadows above the tree line.
The towns of Manali and Dharamsala are starting points for
several popular treks. The best season for trekking is during
the month of June, and then later between mid-September Locator Map
and October, after the monsoon. During the rains (June– Area shown below
September), the trans-Himalayan cold deserts of Spiti (see
p134) and Upper Kinnaur are ideal destinations, completely
shielded from monsoon showers. 0 km 20
0 miles 20
Dharamsala to Macchetar
A challenging 75-km (47-mile) route crosses rocky
terrain to the meadows at Triund. A steep ascent leads
to the Indrahar Pass, with views of the Pir Panjal peaks,
and ends at the small town of Macchetar, connected
by road to Chamba.
Duration: 5 days
Altitude: 4,350 m (14,272 ft)
Level of difficulty: Moderate to tough

Gepang Goh
(6,050 m/19,849 ft)
Key Chamba
Bharmour Kailash
(5,656 m/18,556 ft)
The Pin Valley Trek Beas
Naggar to Jari Macchetar Kund Rohtang Pass
Indrahar Pass (3,985 m/13,074 ft) Kaza
Manali to Beas Kund (4,350 m/14,272 ft) Kuarsi Solang Palchan
Hanuman Tibba
Dharamsala to Macchetar Dharamkot Triund (5,930 m/19,455 ft) Manali
National highway Dharamsala Chanderkhani Pass Spiti Dankar
Major road Palampur Naggar • (3,500 m/11,483 ft)
Minor road Malana • Manikaran Mikkim
Peak Jari Khirganga Pin Pin Sangam
Kullu Pulga Valley
Pass Parvati Mud
Pandav Mantalai
Manali to Beas Kund Beas Beas Bridge
Starting at Palchan near Manali, a Pin Parvati Pass
30-km (19-mile) round trip to the (5,319 m/17,451 ft)
glacial lake of Beas Kund leads over Mandi
a glacial moraine to the lake,
surrounded by snow-clad peaks.
Duration: 3 days
Altitude: 3,980 m (13,058 ft)
Level of difficulty: Easy
Bilaspur Satluj
Naggar to Jari
This 40-km (25-mile) trek crosses the Chandrakhani
Pass, offering fine views of the peaks surrounding
Solang Nala, and leads past the isolated Malana
village (see p132) to end at Jari in Parvati Valley.
Duration: 4 days
Altitude: 3,500 m (11,483 ft)
Level of difficulty: Moderate

For keys to symbols see back flap


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Practical Tips
Be prepared: Acclimatization is
essential for areas over 3,000 m
(9,843 ft). See p743 for tips on
altitude sickness. Guides are
needed as maps are insufficient
for safe passage across glaciers.
For details on trekking, see p727.
On the trek: Drink plenty of
water. Carry a first aid kit and
cooking fuel. Never burn wood, Renuka Lake, venue of the Renuka Fair held
which is a scarce resource. Put in November
out all fires properly, leaving no 5 Nahan
burning embers. Do not litter, and
The Pin Valley Trek carry your rubbish back with you. Sirmaur district. 100 km (62 miles) S of
Starting at Manikaran, famous Permits: Foreign visitors require Shimla. @ _ Renuka Fair (Nov).
for its hot springs, the 130-km travel permits for parts of Spiti
(81-mile) path goes over the and Kinnaur, obtainable from Lying in the lower Shivalik
Pin-Parvati Pass to the cold the district or subdivisional Hills close to the plains, Nahan
desert region of the beautiful magistrate’s offices in Shimla nestles sleepily on a low
Pin Valley. It ends at Mikkim, (see p115), Rekong Peo (see p123), wooded ridge at 930 m
40 km (25 miles) from the Kaza and Kullu (see p130). The (3,051 ft). The old town retains
main roadhead at Kaza. offices at Kaza, (01906) 222 302 its network of narrow cobbled
Duration: 7 days and Rekong Peo, (01789) 222 253 streets and has an interesting
Altitude: 5,319 m (17,451 ft) are the most efficient. For
Level of difficulty: Tough general details, see p734. bazaar dating to the 17th
Equipment hire & operators: century. The old palace (Raja
The Institute of Mountaineering Mahal) is closed to visitors.
and Allied Sports in Manali Other attractions include
Gepang Goh (01902) 252 342, and Yeti Trekking the Ranzore Palace facing
(6,050 m/19,849 ft) the Chaugan (the royal polo
Chamba in McLeodganj (01892) 221 887,
Kailash organize treks. The Regional ground), the lively Jagannath
Bharmour (5,656 m/18,556 ft) Temple in the bazaar, and the
Beas Mountaineering Centre in
Macchetar Kund Rohtang Pass McLeodganj, (01892) 221 787, quiet walks through the chir
Indrahar Pass (3,985 m/13,074 ft) Kaza offers mountaineering courses. pine forests on the Villa Round.
(4,350 m/14,272 ft) Kuarsi Solang Palchan In Manali, Himalayan Adventurers,
Hanuman Tibba Manali Nahan serves as a convenient
Dharamkot Triund (5,930 m/19,455 ft) (01902) 252 365, is a reputable stop over for visiting the
Dharamsala Chanderkhani Pass Spiti Dankar rafting agency, the Himalayan popular Renuka Lake nearby.
Palampur Naggar • (3,500 m/11,483 ft) Institute of Adventure Sports,
(01902) 253 050, offers para- Environs
Malana • Manikaran Mikkim gliding, and Himalayan Journeys, Lying 42 km (26 miles) east
Jari Khirganga Pin Pin Sangam (01902) 252 365, offers mountain
Kullu Pulga Valley biking. See also p731. of Nahan, is the sacred Renuka
Mud Lake, whose shoreline traces
Parvati
Caution: Trekkers have gone
Pandav Mantalai the shape of a reclining woman.
Bridge missing in Parvati Valley. It is According to Hindu mythology,
Beas
advisable to trek in groups and to
Beas
Pin Parvati Pass take an experienced guide along. Renuka was the wife of the
(5,319 m/17,451 ft)
Mandi sage Jamdagni and mother
of Parasurama, an incarnation
Other Adventure Activities of Lord Vishnu (see p683).
She was killed by her son at
Himachal Pradesh has several peaks his father’s command, and
over 3,000 m (9,843 ft) suitable for miraculously came back to life,
climbing. The Institute of Mountain- only to disappear again, leaving
eering and Allied Sports at Manali
Bilaspur Satluj offers three-week courses. Skiing behind an imprint in the shape
is possible at Narkanda and at of her body. At the far end
of the lake is a small wildlife
Solang Nala near Manali. Summer park housing a pride of lions,
is the best season for rafting and
kayaking on the Beas river at Manali, Himalayan black bear and
and for paragliding at Solang and antelope. Nearby lies a smaller
Billing in Kangra. Manali offers lake called Parasurama Tal, and
Climbing a rock face, opportunities for mountain biking below this, an open area where
Tirthan Valley near the Rohtang Pass. the Renuka Fair (see p117) is
held every year in November
to celebrate the harvest.
For hotels and restaurants in this region see p695 and p707
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120  DELHI & THE NOR TH

Sarahan: Bhimakali Temple

The palace-cum-temple complex of the Bushahr kings,
Bhimakali owes its origin to the tradition of housing the family
deity on the top floor of the feudal chief’s home. Its elaborate
layout consists of a series of courtyards connected by beautiful
gateways. The presiding deity, Bhimakali, one of the myriad
forms of the goddess Kali, is housed in the first floor of the
pagoda-style temple. Although the exact age of the temple
is not known, it is associated with historical events dating to
the 7th century, while parts of it are around 800 years old.



The pavilion in the spacious gardens
of Rampur’s palace
6 Rampur
Shimla district. 130 km (81 miles)
NE of Shimla. @ ( daily.
_ Lavi Fair (Nov).
Once on the main trade
route between India and
Tibet, Rampur is today a big
commercial town. It comes View of the Bhimakali Temple Complex
alive in November each year The twin towers of the Bhimakali Temple, covered
when the vibrant Lavi Fair in snow and framed against the backdrop of the
(see p117) takes place. Srikhand Range, present an awesome sight.
The early 20th-century
palace of the old kings is still
their private residence, though
visitors are allowed to walk
around the sprawling gardens.
A Hindu temple and a small
pavilion are set in their midst.

7 Sarahan
Narasimha
Shimla district. 198 km (123 miles) Temple
NE of Shimla. @ ( daily.
_ Dussehra (Sep/Oct).
Perched high above the left
bank of the Satluj, Sarahan was
once the summer residence
of the Bushahr kings. At 2,165 m
(7,103 ft), it has a pleasant climate
enhanced by the vista of the
Srikhand Range across the KEY
valley, with the twin peaks 1 Main Entrance is an
of Gushu-Pishu and the holy elaborately decorated metal
mountain Srikhand Mahadev door, which opens into the
standing out prominently. first courtyard.
Sarahan’s most interesting sight 2 Slate roofs
is the spectacular tower temple,
Bhimakali. It also has a short 3 The Ram Mandir is located in
nature trail leading to a pheas- the second courtyard.
antry. The many pheasants 4 Carved tiger statue
housed here include the monal 5 Alternating bands of
and the near-extinct Western stone and timber
Himalayan tragopan.
For hotels and restaurants in this region see p695 and p707


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HIM A CHAL PR ADESH  121

. Carved Balconies
The uppermost storey VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
of the renovated
temple is fringed by Practical Information
overhanging balconies Open daily. ^ _ Janmashtami
with exquisitely (Jul/Aug), Dussehra (Sep/Oct).
carved panels. Obligatory to wear the saffron
cap, available outside. Shoes and
leather objects not allowed.



. Tower Shrines
The Leaning Tower (on the right) was the
main temple until it was damaged during
an earthquake in 1905. The adjoining tower
has since become the main shrine.






Golden Finials
The finials, a combination
of symbols of the sun and
the moon, represent
the deity and
royal patrons.












Wooden Skittles
Carved wooden skittles
hang from the eaves of
the temple roofs.









. Silver Doors
The silver doors
that lead to the
second courtyard
are embellished
with panels depicting
various Hindu gods.
They were added Dussehra Festival
during the reign of Dussehra is the only time of the year when
Padam Singh (1914– the original 200-year-old image of
47), a Bushahr king. Bhimakali is actively worshipped.




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122  DELHI & THE NOR TH


8 Sangla Valley Tour

The largest village in Kinnaur, Sangla, often 0 kilometres 5
lends its name to the whole Baspa Valley. A drive 0 miles 5
through this area over two to three days can
encapsulate a dramatic transition in landscape,
from the spectacular river gorge at the entrance
to Kinnaur to alpine valley pastures. It
takes in awesome mountain scenery Kut Khad
and mixed forests of oak and Satluj Wangar Gad
rhododendron, before reaching
charming slate-roofed villages Nichar Urni
that nestle amidst orchards
and fields. Sarahan
Melam Khad
Rampur
Kinnu
3 Maheshwar Temple
at Sungra
The temple’s pagoda­like roof
and the fine wooden carvings
on its doorways and walls make
this an interesting stopover.
1 Kafour 2 The Satluj Gorge at Tranda
Strung out along a little spur below From the road there are striking
the road, scenic Kafour is the first views of sheer rock walls falling
inhabited village in Kinnaur. The 500 m (1,640 ft) to the river. On the
Hirma Temple, dedicated to a local other side, cliffs of equal magnitude
mother goddess, stands out amid enclose the Satluj in a narrow
the slate rooftops. impenetrable gorge.

9 Kinnaur
Kinnaur district. 244 km (152 miles)
NE from Shimla to Rekong Peo.
* 19,250. @ ( daily. _ Sazi (Jan).
Travel permits: required for parts
of Kinnaur. Contact the Subdivisional
Magistrate’s office in Rekong Peo,
(01786) 222 253. For details, see p119.
Kinnaur, the remote north ­
eastern corner of Himachal
Pradesh fringing the Tibetan
Plateau, is a region of awesome
grandeur. In the past, difficult View of the Kinner Kailash on a clear winter day
terrain made Kinnaur inaccessible
to all but the most intrepid of hugs both banks of a gorge­ heights of the Kinner Kailash
travellers, while in the 1950s, its like Satluj river. The left bank’s Range, while to its south is the
proximity to the international forested mountain slopes, gentler valley of the Baspa, one
border with Tibet resulted in contour­hugging terraced fields of the Satluj’s largest tributaries.
restrictions on entry. However, and tightly packed rows of The arid sweep of the Zanskar
these restrictions have been houses clinging to the hillsides peaks makes Upper Kinnaur a
eased since 1992. are picturesque in contrast to cold desert country of stark,
The variations in terrain, the right bank, which is steeper, barren mountains interspersed
vegetation, climate and wildlife with higher peaks and a smaller with occasional villages and
have broadly divided this population. Middle Kinnaur is irrigated fields.
region into Lower, Middle and much more rugged. Dominating Rekong Peo, the new district
Upper Kinnaur. Lower Kinnaur its heart are the majestic headquarters, is a bustling
For hotels and restaurants in this region see p695 and p707


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HIM A CHAL PR ADESH  123



4 Sapni
Sapni village has Tips for Drivers
a tower temple Key Length: 90 km (56 miles).
that contains Getting around: The tour begins
some of the Tour route at Kafour village. The steep road
finest examples Road is rough and winding, and is best
of wooden River negotiated with a 4-wheel drive.
sculpture Sangla and Chitkul villages offer
in Kinnaur. places to stay and eat, as well as
a few shops with basic provisions.
Wangar Gad
6 Sangla
Urni The largest among the
Rekong Peo villages that dot the
Baspa Valley, Sangla
Melam Khad has some beautiful
walks to offer.





Rokti Khad Baspa 7 Chitkul

Shaune Garang The tour ends at the
village of Chitkul, just
5 Kamroo before the pastures of
The tower of the Kamroo Narayan Temple the Upper Baspa Valley.
commands a picturesque view of the valley. The valley’s blue poppy
Fields and orchards slope down to the Baspa was admired by the
on one side of the river, while on the other explorer Marco Pallis
side, thick forests rise up to pasturelands. in 1933.

little township on the right last stretch of its course, the scholar Rinchen Zangpo,
bank of the Satluj river, with Baspa river ambles along a revered in Tibetan Buddhism
some shops and adequate wooded valley past serene as the Lotsawa (Translator),
transport connections. About villages. Stupendous gneiss who initiated the mammoth
13 km (8 miles) higher up on faces and forests of deodar, task of translating Indian texts
the same mountain is Kalpa, pine and birch reaching up into Tibetan. He was also the
the old headquarters. With its to long swards of pasture and main force behind a great
panoramic view of the Kinner snow-covered peaks surround temple-building movement
Kailash Range, Kalpa is a must the valley. Every village in this and supposedly built 108
in any Kinnaur itinerary. The valley, from Sangla to Chitkul, monasteries in one night.
choice of walks include one offers glorious walks and a Nako, 100 km (62 miles) from
to the upland pastures through choice of festivals to celebrate Rekong Peo, has a small lake
deodar and chilgoza pine with the local people. and is close to Reo Purgyal,
(Pinus gerardiana) forests. There Buddhism holds sway the highest peak in Himachal
are remarkably built wood- and- throughout Upper Kinnaur. Pradesh at 6,816 m (22,362 ft).
stone temples that are capped Fluttering prayer
by slate roofs in the area. flags and mud-
About 20 km (12 miles) from walled Buddhist
Rekong Peo, the Baspa river temples with clay
joins the Satluj at its left bank. images and wall
The beauty of the Sangla paintings dot the
Valley (or Baspa Valley) has region, reflecting
been extolled both in local its proximity to
legend and by visitors over Tibet. Many
the years, and the region lends temples are
itself to a lovely trip by road. credited to the
Apart from a furious rush in its 11th-century Young Buddhist monks in a monastery, Kinnaur




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124  DELHI & THE NOR TH


Mandi’s hinterland contains
many other places of scenic
beauty. To the east, Jhanjheli
and Karsog, both about 100 km
(62 miles) away in apple orchard
country, offer the possibility of
treks to the hilltop temples
of Shikari Devi and Mahunag.

q Kangra Valley
Kangra district. 222 km (138 miles)
NW of Shimla. * 9,200. ~ Gaggal,
10 km (6 miles) N of Kangra town.
£ Joginder Nagar and Una. @
A cluster of village houses with sloping roofs in Mandi
Located in the western part of
0 Mandi most famous among these are Himachal Pradesh and spread
Mandi district. 156 km (97 miles) N of the Madho Rai Temple, the Tarna between the Shivalik foothills
Shimla. * 26,900. £ Joginder Nagar, Devi Temple and the Bhootnath and the Dhauladhar Range, the
53 km (33 miles) NW of Mandi, then Temple, where the Shivratri Kangra Valley is a land of gentle
taxi or bus. @ _ Shivratri (Feb/Mar). festival is celebrated. beauty. Undulating expanses of
tea gardens and terraced paddy
Often referred to as the gateway Environs fields are crisscrossed by
to the Kullu Valley (see p130), Rewalsar, a bustling village at sparkling snow-fed rivulets.
Mandi is situated at the a height of 360 m (1,181 ft) is Kangra is the most populated
confluence of the Beas river 24 km (15 miles) southeast of district of Himachal Pradesh, and
with a small rain-fed tributary. Mandi. On the is well connected
The capital of the erstwhile shores of the with the plains
princely state of Mandi, this small Rewalsar Lake, as it is situated
market town once functioned resting in the along the border
as a vital link between the hill hollow of a with Punjab.
communities on either side of mountain spur, The valley
it. The busy market, where all are three Buddhist derives its name
manner of merchandise is sold, monasteries, three Mandi district apple orchard from the ancient
and located in a sunken garden temples and a town of Kangra,
in the centre of town, is one of gurdwara commemorating the even though Dharamsala
the more interesting sights here. month-long stay of the tenth (see p126) is the present district
Also situated in the town centre Sikh guru, Gobind Singh, in 1738. headquarters. The history of
is the former residence of the It is said that Padma sambhava, the town goes back 3,500 years,
Mandi kings, built in the colonial the 8th-century Indian apostle when it was called Nagarkot
style, and now the heritage credited with bringing Buddhism and was the capital of the
Rajmahal Palace Hotel. Several to Tibet, used his legendary kingdom of Trigartha. In 1620,
16th- to 17th-century temples powers to fly from here to Tibet. Kangra and its fort were
with beautiful stone carvings can His spirit is believed to reside in captured by Emperor Jahangir,
be found all over the town. The the tiny floating reed islands after which it became a Mughal
on the lake. province. Dominating the town
today are the ruins of the once-
formidable Kangra Fort,
perched on top













The square-shaped Rewalsar Lake resting in the hollow of a mountain spur
For hotels and restaurants in this region see p695 and p707


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HIM A CHAL PR ADESH  125


the 10th century and carved in Built by the Kangra kings in
a style similar to those at Ellora the early 18th century, it was
(see pp480–82). The picturesque the favoured residence of Raja
Jwalamukhi Temple, 35 km Sansar Chand, the renowned
(22 miles) southwest of Kangra, patron of Kangra miniature
is one of North India’s most painting. The fortress also has the
important pilgrimage sites. remains of fine old wall paintings.
Further east of Kangra, the At the far end of the Kangra
beauty of the tea garden country Valley is Jogindernagar, 55 km
unfolds around Palampur, (34 miles) south of Palampur, and
45 km (28 miles) away. East of the terminus of a narrow-gauge
Palampur is the 9th-century railway line that winds up the
stone Baijnath Temple dedicated valley from Pathankot in the west.
The towering spire of Brajeshwari Devi to Shiva, Bir with its Tibetan The Maharana Pratap Sagar
Temple in Kangra town Buddhist monastery, and Billing, Lake, created in 1979 by the
well known as a take-off point construction of the Pong Dam
of a steep cliff overlooking the for paragliding over the valley. across the Beas, lies to the
Banganga and Majhi rivulets. About 40 km (25 miles) southwest of Kangra district.
Within the fort’s compound are southeast of Palampur, is the This large wetland is a favoured
two Hindu temples dedicated fortress of Sujanpur-Tira, located stopover for migratory birds
to Ambika Devi (a local on the right bank of the Beas. from Central Asia.
goddess) and Lakshmi Narayan,
and a Jain temple with a stone
image of Adinath. Behind the
crowded bazaar is the
Brajeshwari Devi Temple, whose
fabled riches were plundered by
Mahmud of Ghazni (see p49) in
1009. The present structure was
built in 1920, after the terrible
earthquake of 1905 destroyed
the city and original temple.
Some 40 km (25 miles)
southwest of Kangra town,
are the 15 monolithic rock-cut
temples of Masroor, dating to Terraced paddy fields in the Kangra Valley

Pahari Miniature Paintings
Pahari or “hill” painting refers to the various schools of miniature painting such as Kangra, Basohli,
Mankot and Guler, that flourished between the mid-17th and the late 19th centuries in the Rajput
kingdoms situated in the long, narrow region of the Himalayan foothills. Although there is evidence
of painting in this region as early as 1552, the earliest group of distinctive Pahari-style paintings
appeared in about 1650 in the small state of Basohli. These miniatures, horizontal in format, use flat
planes of bold colours, mainly reds and yellows. Stylized
architecture and figures with large eyes and straight
profiles wearing elaborate costumes and jewellery
are typical of these miniatures, which illustrate the
Rasamanjari, a Sanskrit poem on the behaviour of lovers.
In the 18th century, the neighbouring state, Mankot,
developed an equally vibrant style, remarkable for a
series of portraits of grandees of the court. By the late
18th century, the vitality of local tradition had mellowed
under Mughal influence, and a lyrical, more tranquil
palette with a naturalistic rendering of forms characterized
the miniatures from Guler and Kangra. Guler’s painting
tradition was dominated by one family of artists, the
most talented member of which was Nainsukh. Painting
in Kangra flourished under the reign of Raja Sansar
Chand (r.1765–1823). The highly refined style that
emerged during this period concentrated on the lush,
idyllic landscape as the backdrop for romantic scenes.
Kangra miniature,1788, depicting Krishna killing Other centres of Pahari painting included Mandi,
the serpent-demon, Kaliya Jammu, Nurpur, Chamba and Kullu.





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126  DELHI & THE NOR TH

w Dharamsala
Kangra district. 238 km (148 miles)
NW of Shimla. * 19,100. ~ Gaggal,
11 km (7 miles) S of town centre.
£ Pathankot, 80 km (50 miles) NW of
Dharamsala, then bus or taxi. @
n HP Tourism, McLeodganj (01892)
221 205. ( daily. _ Summer Festival
(May), Bodh Festival (Oct/Nov).
This hill station, established
by the British in the mid-19th
century, is today the home of
the Dalai Lama and the Tibetan Tibetan nuns in their red robes, a common sight in Dharamsala
Government-in-Exile. Located
on the lower spurs of the temple has a raised dais from includes the excellent Library
Dhauladhar Range, the town where the Dalai Lama holds of Tibetan Works and Archives,
consists of two sections – the discourses, and three beautiful a museum on the first floor
lower town with the main bus images from the Buddhist with bronze images and
stand and bazaar, and the upper pantheon – Sakyamuni (the thangkas, as well as the
town, known as McLeodganj, Historical Buddha), Avalokitesvara Institute of Tibetan Medicine.
9 km (6 miles) to its north, (see p145), and Padmasambhava Nearby is the Nechung
which is the destination of most (see p124 & p143). The Dalai Monastery, the seat of the
foreign visitors. There is little of Lama is believed to be an Tibetan State Oracle, whose
interest in the lower town, apart incarnation of Avalokitesvara. predictions about major events
from the lively Kotwali Bazaar Another temple in the complex in the coming year carry great
and the Museum of Kangra Art. has an intricate mural of weight in the Tibetan
The museum has an excellent the Kalachakra (“Wheel community. Also on
collection of Kangra miniatures of Time”) and beautiful the road to Kotwali
(see p125) and also houses sand mandalas, which Bazaar, close to
a school that teaches the are painstakingly McLeodganj, is
art of miniature painting. created by the monks the picturesque
McLeodganj, the upper over a period of time and Church of St-John-
town, named after Donald then ritually destroyed. in-the-Wilderness, a
McLeod, the lieutenant governor Situated at the grey stone structure
of Punjab in 1848, is primarily a northern edge of built in 1852. Brass
Tibetan settlement. Its focal point town are the Tibetan plaques and superb
is the Tsuglagkhang Complex, Institute of Perform ing Belgian stained-glass
located at the southern edge Arts, and the beautiful windows can be
of the town, which contains the Norbulingka Institute, Stained glass, seen inside the church.
residence of the Dalai Lama (not where traditional arts St-John-in-the- The tomb of Lord
open to visitors), the Namgyal and crafts are promoted. Wilderness Elgin, the British
Monastery, where monks can Gangchen Kyishong, viceroy who died here
be seen debating in the after- the administrative centre of the in 1863 while on holiday,
noons, and the important Tibetan Government-in-Exile, lies in the churchyard.
Tsuglagkhang Temple. A simple is midway between the upper
hall, painted in yellow, the and lower towns. This complex Environs
The pretty village of Dharamkot,
north of McLeodganj, is reached
by a 3-km (2-mile) long road,
lined with deodar and oak trees.
There are superb views of the
Kangra Valley from the village.
E Museum of Kangra Art
Main Rd, Dharamsala. Tel (01892) 224
214. Open Tue–Sun.
E Library of Tibetan Works
and Archives
Gangchen Kyishong, McLeodganj Rd.
Open Mon–Fri.
R St-John-in-the-Wilderness
The brightly painted façade of Namgyal Monastery, McLeodganj Open daily. 5 11am Sun.
For hotels and restaurants in this region see p695 and p707


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Little Tibet

When the 14th Dalai Lama, Tenzin Gyatso, fled Tibet in 1959 after the Chinese
occupation, Dharamsala became his new home and the base of the Tibetan
Government-in-Exile. The town is today often called Little Tibet, preserving Tibet’s
religious and cultural heritage, keeping the Tibetan cause alive internationally,
and serving as the focal point for the 100,000 Tibetans scattered in refugee
settlements all over India. Dharamsala also attracts Buddhists from across the
world, such as the Hollywood actor Richard Gere.

The Tibetan flag
is dominated by
a snow-covered
mountain repre-
senting Tibet.
The six red bands
symbolize the six
tribes of Tibet.
Religion and Culture
Dharamsala’s many monasteries and crafts centres,
and its performing arts school ensure that Tibet’s
distinctive religion and culture continue to flourish.

Tibetan opera, The Dalai Lama, who won the Nobel
known as Peace Prize in 1989, is head of the
lhamo, has Gelugpa or Yellow Hat sect (see p143)
traditional folk and is revered as Tibet’s god-king.
tales, legends
and myths as
its themes. Thunderbolt
sceptre



The altar in a
Tibetan monastery
includes, apart
from images of the
deities, seven ritual
bowls of water, Butter Prayer
butter lamps, sculpture bell
intricate butter
sculptures, as
well as a bell and a
thunderbolt sceptre
used during prayers
and special rites.


Thangkas, or
scroll paintings
framed in silk
depicting the
Buddhist
divinities, are
among the
Sand mandalas symbolizing the universe are traditional arts
meticulously created and then ceremon ially kept alive by
destroyed. They help monks to meditate. the refugees.
See also features on Buddhist Iconography (p145) and In the Buddha’s Footsteps (p225)



126-127_EW_India.indd 127 26/04/17 11:43 am

128  DELHI & THE NOR TH


r Chamba
Chamba district. 378 km (235 miles)
NW of Shimla. * 20,300. @
( daily. _ Sui (Apr), Minjar (Jul/
Aug). Travel permits: Contact the
Deputy Commissioner, (01899) 225
371. For details, see pp734–5.
This town was chosen as the
capital of the former princely
state of Chamba in the 10th
century, when Raja Sahil Varman
moved here from Bharmour.
He named it Chamba after his
favourite daughter, Champavati,
Silverton, one of the many colonial houses in Dalhousie also called Chameshni, who
legend says, sacrificed herself to
e Dalhousie Environs provide water for the parched city.
A scenic road through dense During the Sui festival, women
Chamba district. 336 km (209 miles)
NW of Shimla. * 7,400. @ forests of pine, deodar, oak, horse and children sing her praises in
n Geetanjali Hotel, near bus chestnut and rhododendron the town’s many temples.
stand, (01899) 242 136. ( daily. leads to the Kalatope Wildlife A bridge over the Ravi river
_ Summer Festival (Jun). Sanctuary, about 8 km (5 miles) leads up to the town, situated
east of Dalhousie. With prior on the ledge of a mountain,
Sprawling over five hills that permission from the wildlife overlooking the right bank
range in height from 1,525 m authorities at Chamba it of the river. In the town’s
to 2,378 m (5,003 ft to 7,802 ft), is possible to take a centre is the Chaugan,
Dalhousie still retains its Raj-era diversion at Bakrota a huge expanse of
ambience, with spacious, gable- and drive to a rest meadow that is the
roofed bungalows and churches house deep inside the focal point of its
flanking its leafy lanes. Originally sanctuary. About 26 cultural and social
conceived as a sanatorium for km (16 miles) east of life. Clustered around
the expatriate population rather Dalhousie is Khajjiar, it are a number of
than as a fashionable summer situated at a height of imposing buildings,
retreat, it was founded in 1853 2,000 m (6,562 ft). This Silver mask of including the old
and named after Lord Dalhousie, saucer-shaped expanse Parvati, Chamba Akhand Chandi Palace,
the governor-general of British of green meadow, part of which is now a
India between 1848 and 1856. bordered by towering deodars, college. The Chaugan is also the
The most popular walks are the has a picture postcard beauty, main marketplace with shops
twin rounds of Garam Sarak comparable with the finest that sell a variety of merchandise,
(“Warm Road”) and Thandi Sarak views in Kashmir or Switzerland. ranging from traditional silver
(“Cold Road”), so called because The centre has a small lake, jewellery with enamelled clasps
one path is sunnier than the and the glade is flanked by a to embroidered Chamba chappals
other. A shorter walk from the temple dedicated to the local (sandals) that may look flimsy
Circuit House to Gandhi Chowk deity, Khajjinag. but are excellent for walking
– the central part of town, where up hillsides.
a school, church and the post O Kalatope Wildlife Sanctuary Chamba’s towering stone
office are situated – offers For permission contact: Forest Depart- temples are some of the finest in
spectacular views of the Pir ment, Chamba. Tel (01899) 222 639. the region. The most important
Panjal Range. From Gandhi
Chowk, another pleasant ramble,
about 3 km (2 miles) long,
leads south to the pretty
picnic spot of Panjpula or
“Five Bridges”.
For Raj aficionados, a track
leading off to the right from
the main bus stand moves
past the old British cemetery
in the woods, before reaching
the cantonment. One of the
two churches here boasts pretty
stained-glass windows and
sandstone arches. Images of deities on the walls of Lakshmi Narayan Temple, Chamba
For hotels and restaurants in this region see p695 and p707


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HIM A CHAL PR ADESH  129


(see p117). The main motor
road continues up to Hadsar,
16 km (10 miles) beyond
Bharmour, and from there the
yatra (procession) ascends in
two stages via Dhanchho to
the lake, nestling at the base
of the Manimahesh Kailasa.
For the adventurous,
Bharmour also offers a tough
five-day trek over the Kugti Pass
(5,040 m/16,535 ft) to Lahaul
(see p133). Holi, 26 km (16 miles)
Hillsides around Chamba ablaze with the colours of autumn away in the main Ravi Valley, is
the base for a number of trails
are the six North Indian shikhara- mountainside, high above Budhil, over the Dhauladhar Range
style temples (see p24) that a large tributary of the Ravi river. to the Kangra Valley. It offers
comprise the Lakshmi Narayan Bharmour’s main attraction is an option of a longer walk to
Temple complex, to the west of the fascinating Chaurasi (literally, the Kullu Valley as well. Down
the Chaugan. Of these, three are “Eighty-Four”) Temple complex, the course of the Ravi, on the
dedicated to Vishnu and three built in the 10th century under road to Chamba, the Chatrari
to Shiva. The white marble image Raja Sahil Varman to honour the Temple with its exquisite
of Lakshmi Narayan, in the main 84 saints who visited Bharmour. bronze image of Shakti Devi,
temple, was brought from Central The major shrines are dedicated is also worth a stop.
India in the 10th century. The to Narasimha, Ganesha, and the
carved panels on the temple local deities Larkana Devi and
walls illustrate mythological Manimahesh. The intricate
scenes as well as animal and wooden carvings on the temple
floral motifs. lintels and the images of the
Other temples include the main deities are outstanding,
Madho Rai Temple, near the and it is said that the sculptor’s
palace, with a bronze image hands were cut off to prevent
of Krishna, and further up, the him from replicating such
Chamunda Temple. remarkable work.
A glimpse of Chamba’s rich
heritage can be seen at the Environs
Bhuri Singh Museum, set up Situated at a height of 3,950 m
in 1908 by the king of Chamba (12,959 ft), Manimahesh Lake,
at the time. His rare collection 35 km (22 miles) from Bharmour,
of miniature paintings formed is the area’s most sacred lake,
the nucleus of the museum. as its holy waters are believed
Today, it has a fine collection to cleanse all sins. In August/
of Pahari paintings (see p125), September, thousands of pilgrims
murals, inscribed fountain converge here to participate in Well-preserved 10th-century temples
slabs, carved-stone panels and the annual Manimahesh Yatra at Bharmour
other artifacts, such as Chamba
rumals, metal masks, copper Chamba Rumals
plates and silver jewellery.
Chamba rumals, exquisitely embroidered handkerchiefs or
E Bhuri Singh Museum coverlets, generally square in shape, were used primarily to
S of Chaughan. Tel (01899) 222 590. wrap gifts, either for temple offerings or
Open Tue–Sun. for ceremonial exchanges during wedding
rituals. At times, they also formed the
canopies draped above deities in temples.
t Bharmour Pale colours, silk thread, a double-sided
satin stitch and an unbleached muslin
Chamba district. 64 km (40 miles) base were the framework within which
SE of Chamba. @ _ Manimahesh intricate compositions, inspired by
Yatra (Aug/Sep). delicate Pahari miniatures, were created.
Originally they were the work of the
The Bharmour region, homeland ladies of the court, and the themes
of the semi-nomadic, sheep- were religious, interspersed with animal
herding Gaddis and the first and plant motifs, and enclosed within Hand-embroidered
capital of the Chamba rulers, floral borders. Chamba rumal
spreads right across a steep




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130  DELHI & THE NOR TH


Jagannathi Devi Temple at
Bekhli, 5 km (3 miles) to the
north; and the Vishnu Temple at
Dayar, 12 km (7 miles) to the
west. The pyramidal Basheshwar
Mahadev Temple at Bajaura,
15 km (9 miles) to the south,
has superb images of Vishnu,
Ganesha and Durga. However,
the most famous is the Bijli
Mahadev Temple, dedicated to
the “Lord of Lightning”, 14 km
(9 miles) to the southeast.
Located on a high spur on the
Brightly coloured tiger guarding the Jagannathi Devi Temple, Kullu left bank of the river, opposite
the town, this temple has an
y Kullu Valley wear the distinctive Kullu topi, 18-m (59-ft) high staff, which
a snug woollen cap with a periodically attracts lightning
Kullu district. 240 km (149 miles) colourful upturned flap. The during thunderstorms especially
N of Shimla. * 18,300. ~ Bhuntar,
10 km (6 miles) S of Kullu town. @ women weave thick shawls with in spring. This is regarded as a
n HP Tourism, near Maidan, (01902) striking geometric designs on divine blessing, even though
222 349. _ Dussehra (Sep/Oct). their borders, and few visitors it shatters the Shivalinga in
Travel permits: Contact Deputy can resist acquiring these the sanctum of the temple.
Commisioner, (01902) 222 727. attractive products, now a The stone fragments are then
For more details, see p119. flourishing local industry. painstakingly put together again
Equally attractive are the village with a mortar of clarified butter
Watered by the Beas river, the houses, their slate roofs rising and grain, by the head priest.
Kullu Valley in central Himachal above green meadows. Kullu,
Pradesh has long been a site of the district headquarters and Environs
human habitation. In ancient the largest settlement in the Jalori Pass, about 70 km
Sanskrit texts it valley, is located (43 miles) south of Kullu, on
is referred to as on the right bank the ridgeline forming the divide
Kulantapith, or of the Beas. The between the Beas and Satluj
“end of the town’s chief rivers, offers two beautiful walks
habitable world” – attraction is the through dense, high-altitude
an apt description 17th-century oak forests and meadows. The
when one Raghunath first walk goes through a path
compares the Temple, which is with gentle gradients to the
lush fields and Typical geometric pattern on the dedicated to Rama tarn of Saryolsar, 5 km (3 miles)
apple orchards border of a Kullu shawl and Sita, whose away. The other walk, up a
of this 80-km (50- richly adorned neighbouring hill, leads to the
mile) long valley with the images lead the proces sions at picturesque ruins of a fort
desolate expanse of Lahaul the Dussehra festival. occupied by the Gurkhas in
(see p133), which is separated Also worth exploring is the the 19th century.
from it by the Pir Panjal Range. Akhara Bazaar, at the
The local name for Kullu is the northern end of the
“Valley of the Gods” – its alpine town, famous for its
setting is the gathering place handicrafts shops, selling
for 360 gods from dif ferent shawls and traditional
temples in the region, who silver jewellery. At the
congregate here for the southern end of town is
famous Dussehra festival. the large green open
Unlike British-built hill space called Dhalpur
stations in the Himalayas, Maidan, where the
Kullu remained unknown to colourful Dussehra
the outside world until it was festivities take place.
“discovered” in the 1960s by A number of temples,
the flower children, who were all with superb stone
enchanted as much by its carvings and impressive
hillsides covered with marijuana images, lie in the vicinity
plants (Cannabis sativa), as by its of Kullu town – the
gentle beauty, superb mountain Vaishno Devi Cave
vistas and amiable people. The Shrine is 4 km (2 miles)
men of the Kullu Valley usually to the northeast; the A waterfall in the Kullu Valley
For hotels and restaurants in this region see p695 and p707


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HIM A CHAL PR ADESH  131


have gone missing from the i Great Himalayan
area. It is advisable to take National Park
guides and porters available
from Naggar (see p132) and Kullu district. 205 km (127 miles) N of
Manikaran, for treks in this region. Shimla, (via Jalori Pass). Entry points:
The main settlement in Sainj, Gushani. @ Shamshi, 15 km
(9 miles) S of Kullu, then jeep. n For
the Parvati Valley is Manikaran, bookings & permits contact Director,
famous for its hot springs. GHNP, Shamshi, (01902) 265 320. &
It is also the starting point for a
number of treks (see pp118–19). The great Himalayan National
An interesting legend explains Park, covering an area of 754 sq
the origins of the hot springs. km (291 sq miles), ranges in
A serpent stole the earrings of altitude from 1,300 m (4,265 ft)
Parvati, the consort of Lord to 6,100 m (20,013 ft), and abuts
Shiva, and disappeared with the cold desert region of Pin
Hot springs in Manikaran, a popular them into a deep burrow. On Valley National Park (see
pilgrim spot witnessing Shiva’s terrible p134). The variety of
anger, the snake was too flora and fauna found
u Parvati Valley terrified to come out of here represents the
its hole, but managed entire Western Himalayas.
Kullu district. 180 km (112 miles)
NE of Shimla. @ n HP Tourism, to snort the earrings A vast range of subtropical
near Maidan, Kullu, (01902) 222 349. out through the earth, species along with alpine
thus creating vents grasslands are covered with
The scenic Parvati Valley, with from which the hot edelweiss and oak
its green, terraced rice fields springs bubble out. A Monal pheasant forests. Mammals
and apple orchards, draws an bath here is said to be include the Himalayan
increasing number of visitors. good for the body and tahr, musk deer and the elusive
However, because of illegal the soul, and local people snow leopard. Among the 300-
marijuana cultivation in the sometimes boil rice in the odd species of birds, there are
surrounding countryside, geothermal steam. at least six kinds of pheasant.
the Parvati Valley has, in recent The Rama Temple and the A number of trekking trails
years, gained notoriety as a Shiva Temple next to a Sikh and forest huts in the buffer
centre for the narcotics trade, gurdwara is always thronged zone offer an opportunity
and some foreign visitors with sadhus. to explore the park.

Gathering of the Gods
Kullu celebrates the festival of Dussehra with unique gusto. All over India, this
festival commemorates the defeat of the demon-king, Ravana, by the god Rama,
a story recounted in the Hindu epic, Ramayana (see p31). In Kullu, local traditions
add their own piquancy to this pan-Indian myth. These traditions originated in
the 17th century, when the ruler Jagat Singh inadvertently caused the death of
a Brahmin priest. To expiate his sin, he installed the deity Raghunath (another
name for Rama) on his throne and vowed that thereafter he and his descendants
would rule Kullu only as regents. The image of this god was brought all the way
from the holy town of Ayodhya (see p203), the birthplace of Lord Rama. From
then on, every September/October, Raghunath “invites” all the local gods of
the valley to celebrate Dussehra in Kullu. These gods, 360 of them, include
Hadimba, the patron
deity of the Kullu rajas
from Manali (see p132),
and Jamlu, the reigning
deity of Malana, who Image of Vashishtha
administers justice via the Devta, a local god
village priest. The gods are
carried on palanquins from their own temples
and arrive at the Dhalpur Maidan in a cheerful
procession accompanied by the frenzied beat
of drums. Nine days of festivities follow, when
the villagers set up a temporary market, which
sells everything from locally made shawls and
shoes, to brightly hued plastic toys. The graceful
natti dance, performed amidst a lot of friendly
Preparing for the Dussehra festival celebrations rivalry by several local groups, can also be watched.






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132  DELHI & THE NOR TH


o Manali
Kullu district. 210 km (130 miles) N
of Shimla. * 6,300. @ n The Mall,
(01902) 253 531. ( daily. _ Winter
Carnival (Jan), Dhungri Mela (May).
Picturesque Manali, situated
along the west bank of the
Beas river, is a prime destination
for visitors, offering a variety
of scenic walks and treks
through dense forests. Though
hotels and shops now overrun
downtown Manali, its environs
still retain much of the natural
beauty that gives this hill station The 16th-century wooden Hadimba Temple in Manali
a unique flavour. Particularly
charming is the original village, Kund (see p118). Paragliding, a example of traditional local
about 3 km (2 miles) north popular activity, takes place on architecture with walls composed
of the main bazaar, with its the nearby slopes, which also of alternate layers of wooden
temple dedicated to Manu, attract skiers in the winter. beams and evenly hewn stone.
the Hindu sage after whom It commands a fine view of
Manali is named. Environs the Beas Valley. Nearby is the
Located 1.5 km (1 mile) north Rohtang Pass, the perilous pass Nicholas Roerich Art Gallery
of the main bazaar is the sacred crossing into Lahaul, displaying the work
Hadimba Temple, shaded by at an altitude of of the Russian painter
a grove of stately deodars. This 3,980 m (13,058 ft), Nicholas Roerich.
four-tiered wooden temple with is 52 km (32 miles) Lying across the
its pagoda-style roof was built north of Manali. It river from Naggar,
in 1553 around a small natural is a day’s excursion, is scenic Katrain,
cave enshrining the footprints though the pass is surrounded by
of the demoness turned goddess, closed in winter, with orchards. Trout
Hadimba, wife of Bhima, the a brief halt at the fishing is a popular
mighty Pandava brother (see p30). spectacular Rahalla pastime here.
On the left bank of the Beas, Falls along the way. The remote village
about 3 km (2 miles) north The first capital Woodcarving on a door of Malana, beyond
of the bazaar, the hot sulphur of the Kullu kings, in Malana Chanderkhani Pass,
springs in the village of Vashisht Jagatsukh is 6 km is 25 km (16 miles)
are piped into Turkish-style (4 miles) south of Manali, on the southeast of Naggar. Malana’s
baths. Further up, the lovely left bank of the Beas. The two isolated people live by their
Solang Valley, 14 km (9 miles) shikhara-style (see p25) stone own code of conduct and shun
from downtown Manali, is the temples here possibly date back contact with outsiders. Their
scene of most of the area’s to the 6th century. Naggar, unique culture, language
outdoor activities. Treks lead up further south, on the same side and system of government
to the pastures of Dhumti and of the river, succeeded set them apart from the rest
the small snow-fed lake of Beas Jagatsukh as the capital till it of the valley. Visitors should
was moved to Kullu (see p130) in enter the village only if invited.
the 17th century. The Naggar
Castle, built in the 15th century, E Nicholas Roerich Art Gallery
is now a hotel. It is an excellent Naggar. Open daily. &
Nicholas Roerich (1874–1947)
This multi-faceted Russian, who painted, wrote poetry and
expounded a universalist philosophy distilled from many religions,
travelled extensively through Tibet and
the Himalayas. He is best remembered
for the colourful celebration of nature
in his trans-Himalayan landscapes.
Roerich lived in Naggar, where he died
in 1947. His old home is now the
Roerich Museum. His son Svetoslav,
also a painter, made India his home
A tiny stream crisscrossing the lush and established the gallery as well. A mountainscape by Roerich
landscape around Manali
For hotels and restaurants in this region see p695 and p707


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HIM A CHAL PR ADESH  133

p Lahaul and Spiti
Lahaul and Spiti district. 170 km
(106 miles) N from Shimla to Keylong
via Kunjam Pass. * 33,200. @
_ Ladarcha Festival, Spiti (Aug).
At an average altitude of 2,750 m
(9,022 ft), Lahaul and Spiti,
bordering Tibet and Ladakh’s
Zanskar Valley, comprise the
trans-Himalayan regions of
western Himachal Pradesh. Unlike
the lush meadows of the Kullu
Valley, this is a barren land of rocky
massifs and hanging glaciers,
enclosed by the Himalayas to the The meandering Chandra river, near Gondhla village
north and the Pir Panjal to
the south. Rainfall is scarce, river, is the region’s principal oldest monastery in Lahaul,
and the region is dependent town. With many basic facilities, the 800-year-old Guru
upon glacial melt for the it is widely used as a stopover Ghantal Gompa at Tandi,
cultivation of its main crops, by travellers en route to Leh (see 11 km (7 miles) southwest
barley, millet and seed potato. pp140–41) or as a base for treks. of Keylong, is believed to have
While the difficult terrain Across the river, opposite been etablished by Guru
inhibits many travellers from Keylong, a steep tree- Padmasambhava, the
going to Spiti (see pp134–5), shaded pathway leads founder of Tibetan
Lahaul is more accessible. to Drugpa Kardang Buddhism. Other
Upper Lahaul is a stark land Gompa, the largest places worth visiting
of high mountains enveloping monastery (gompa) are the carved
the deep valleys of the Chandra in Lahaul. It has a fine wooden Mrikula
and Bhaga rivers, while Lower collection of thangkas Devi Temple at
Lahaul lies below Tandi, where (see p127), musical Udaipur, in the
the two rivers meet and instruments and old Pattan Valley,
become the Chandrabhaga, weapons. Nearby is the Detail of a prayer 44 km (27 miles)
or Chenab. 16th-century Shashur wheel at Keylong west of Tandi,
Today, Lahaul’s social Gompa. This monastery and Trilokinath,
structure is an interesting mix is renowned for its long with its marble image of
of Buddhism and Hinduism, 4.5 m (15 ft) thangka. Avalokitesvara (see p145).
reflecting the close ties the On the road to Manali, Beyond Keylong, the road
region had with Tibet, Ladakh about 16 km (10 miles) south to Leh passes the last Lahaul
and neighbouring Kullu. of Keylong, the eight-storeyed village of Darcha with a
Keylong, the district tower of the Gondhla chiefs trekking route to Zanskar
headquarters on the Bhaga dominates the landscape. The (see p156) via the Shingo-la.






















Suraj Tal, the glacial lake that is the source of Bhaga river, one of the main rivers in Lahaul




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134  DELHI & THE NOR TH


Spiti: The Sacred Valley

The heart of Himachal’s cold desert,
Spiti is a land of fascinating contrasts.
HIMACHAL Monasteries and prayer flags are
PRADESH
dotted along the banks of glacial
streams, while blue sheep and
ibex graze amidst sparse pastures
sprinkled with marine fossils. Once part of a West Bare multi-hued rock faces, a typical feature of
Tibetan kingdom, Spiti submitted to Ladakhi rule the Spiti area
in the 17th century and became a part of British
India in the 19th century. Through these changes
in its political history, Spiti remained a locked land,
enclosed between tall mountain ranges and
international borders. Though now part of Himachal
Pradesh, it has retained its Tibetan character and is
an important preserve of ancient Buddhist heritage.


Chandra Tal, or the “Moon Lake”, at a
height of 4,270 m (14,009 ft), lies at the
entrance to Spiti when approached
from Lahaul. Oval in shape, with deep
Tsarap Lingti blue waters, it is overlooked by craggy
peaks and hanging glaciers.
Chandra Chandra Tal Hansa Kaza is the
administrative
Losar headquarters of Spiti.
Key Monastery, possibly
founded in the 13th century, Kibber
is the largest monastery in Spiti. Key
Perched on an escarpment, it Manali Spiti Kaza Lingti
has a fine collection of thangkas Pin Valley
and is the seat of Lochen Tulku, National Lara
Lalung
a reincarnation of Rinchen Losar, the first Spiti Park Dhankar
Zangpo (see p123). village encountered Kungri Tabo Sumdo
en route from Lahaul, Gulling
is beautifully situated
below the wide Pin Chango
Key
confluence of the three
Area illustrated rivulets that combine
Major road to form the Spiti river.
Minor road
Kungri Monastery in Pin Valley belongs
to the Nyingmapa sect (see p143). The
uppermost hall, in the main temple,
0 km 25
contains some ancient wall paintings
0 miles 25 and wooden sculptures.
The land of the ibex and the snow
leopard, the Pin Valley National Park
is an untrammelled pastureland in the
shadow of virgin snowcapped peaks.
It surrounds the upper reaches of the
Pin river and its tributary, the Paraiho.
Among the carnivores, the fox and the
snow wolf are common, while
the beautiful snow leopard
is more elusive. Chorten at a village in Pin Valley

For hotels and restaurants in this region see p695 and p707 For keys to symbols see back flap


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HIM A CHAL PR ADESH  135
















Vibrant mural showing a scene from Buddhist mythology, Tabo Monastery
a Tabo Monastery however, make Tabo one
Dhankar, the old capital Lahaul and Spiti district. 380 km (236 of the most significant art
of Spiti, is wedged between miles) NE of Shimla. @ Open Apr–Sep. treasures of the Tibetan
the pinnacles of a razor- _ Monastery Festival (Oct/Nov). Travel Buddhist world. The earliest
sharp spur of crumbling rock permits: required to travel between paintings in the dukhang
and alkaline deposits. The Tabo and Jangi (in Kinnaur). Contact (assembly hall) are from the
old monastery here is richly Deputy Commisioner, Shimla (see 10th and 11th cen turies and
endowed with beautiful pp114–15), or SDM’s office in Rekong depict scenes from various
frescoes, and has a bronze Peo (see p122). For details, see p119. incidents and tales associated
statue of Avalokitesvara.
with the life of the Buddha.
Tabo Monastery, Spiti’s pride, The hall also contains imposing
Tsarap Lingti is linked to an important era clay sculptures of the chief
deities from the Buddhist
in the growth of Buddhism in
Tibet. Tibetan Buddhism suffered pantheon. Seven other chapels
Chandra Chandra Tal Hansa Kaza is the a major setback during the reign in the complex contain paintings
from the 15th and 16th centuries.
of King Langdarma in the 9th
administrative
Losar headquarters of Spiti. century, and it took a whole One of the shrines houses
cen tury for the religion to recover. a huge clay idol of a sitting
Kibber The resurgence, also known Maitreya (the Future Buddha).
Key as the “second diffusion of Tabo is also a favourite retreat
Manali Spiti Kaza Lingti Buddhism”, was spearheaded of the Dalai Lama.
Pin Valley by Ye-she-od, the Lama king of Accessing parts of the
National Lara Children in Spiti Guge in Western Tibet. Under his Spiti Valley that lie below
Park Lalung
Kungri Dhankar Tabo Sumdo patronage, the legendary scholar Tabo remains difficult. Travel is
Rinchen Zangpo spread the faith restricted due to the proximity
Gulling
by translating Buddhist of the border with Tibet.
Pin Chango texts and promoting a
tremendous temple-
building movement.
The gompa at Tabo
is one of the products
of this movement,
established in the 11th
century by Rinchen
Zangpo himself. Dating
from a period when
monastic temples were
constructed close to
villages, it is one of the
largest of such centres.
The squat, mud
An impressive image of structures of Tabo are
Guru Padmasambhava, enclosed within a mud
covered in gold leaf, is wall about 84 m by
the highlight of Lalung 75 m (276 ft by 246 ft)
Monastery. This monastery and appear quite
is one of the 108 structures unimpressive from the
credited to Rinchen Zangpo. outside. The exquisite
wall paintings inside, Monks praying at Tabo Monastery
A scenic view of the dramatically situated Key Monastery, Spiti
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136-IND_DPS.indd 137 29/04/14 7:12 pm

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DELHI & THE NOR TH  139


LADAKH, JAMMU & KASHMIR

Lying across six major mountain ranges, and covering an area of
some 222,000 sq km (85,715 sq miles), Jammu and Kashmir is India’s
northernmost state, bordering Pakistan and China’s Tibetan Plateau. Its
three distinct regions – Ladakh, Jammu and the Kashmir Valley – offer a
rich diversity of landscapes, religions, and people. The predominantly
Muslim Kashmir Valley is a mosaic of forests, ricefields, lakes and waterways,
its gentle beauty now shattered by armed insurgency (see p158). Jammu,
encompassing plains, mountains and foothills, boasts the famous hilltop
shrine of Vaishno Devi, an important pilgrimage site for Hindus. Sparsely
populated Ladakh, which accounts for two-thirds of the state’s area, is a high-
altitude desert. Its harsh lines are softened by the emerald green of oasis villages,
the crystal light of cloudless blue skies, and the dramatic silhouettes of ancient
Buddhist monasteries, which, for many visitors, are Ladakh’s main attraction.

Sights at a Glance
Towns & Cities Areas of Natural Beauty Tours
1 Leh 6 Southeast Ladakh 7 Nubra Valley Tour
9 Mulbekh w Rangdum
0 Kargil y Gulmarg
r Jammu u Pahalgam 0 kilometres 100
t Srinagar
0 miles 100
Monasteries & Palaces Rivers & Valleys
2 Stok q Suru Valley
3 Shey e Zanskar Key
4 Matho Monastery National highway
5 Hemis Monastery
8 Alchi Monastery Major road
Minor road
Major railway
International border
Disputed border
State border



Indus Indus



Muzaffarabad Wular Lake NH1D Shayok Nubra Chang Chenmo Range
• Sankhu • Spituk
•
• Panikhar
Avantipora • Spangmik
•
•
Martand
Padum • Pang-gong
Tso
Mirpur NH1A Kishtwar
• Katra NH1B • Indus
PAKISTAN • Karzok Tibet
• Udhampur •
Tso Moriri
Chenab
•Chamba • Keylong
Pathankot • NH20
NH15 NH21
Amritsar Beas CHINA
Lahore • • NH1 • Mandi
Spectacular view of Ladakh, also known as land of the high passes For keys to symbols see back flap
138-139_EW_India.indd 139 26/04/17 11:43 am

140  DELHI & THE NOR TH


Acclimatizing to Leh
Visitors flying into Leh,
situated at an altitude of
3,500 m (11,483 ft), should
allow themselves enough
time to acclimatize. Any
strenuous physical activity
should be avoided for at
least the first 24 hours.
During the first few days,
Leh’s high altitude can
often cause insomnia,
headaches, breathlessness
and loss of appetite.
The abandoned Leh Palace, once the seat of the royal family
which have vibrant murals. Those
1 Leh pleasant strolls and walks. In inside the gonkhang include
the heart of town are the Main a court scene with a portrait
Leh district. 1,077 km (669 miles) N of
Delhi. * 15,000. ~ 11 km (7 miles) Bazaar and Nowshar, with believed to be that of King Tashi
S of town centre. @ n (01982) 252 their eateries and curio shops Namgyal (mid-16th century), the
297. _ Muharram (Mar/Apr), Buddha selling precious stones and ritual founder of the complex.
Jayanti (May), Losar (Dec). Travel religious objects such as prayer At the western edge of Leh
permits: required for certain restricted wheels. Along the Bazaar’s wide is the Ecological Centre, which
areas in Ladakh (see p146). kerb, women from nearby runs development projects in
villages sit with large baskets agriculture, solar energy, health
From the 17th century of fresh vegetables, and environmental awareness
right until 1949, spinning wool on in several of the surrounding
Ladakh’s principal town, drop spindles and villages. The centre also houses
Leh, was the hub of the exchanging lively a library and a shop selling
bustling caravan trade chatter in between local handicrafts.
(see p146) between intervals of The gleaming white Shanti
Punjab and Central brisk commerce. Stupa (“Peace Pagoda”), founded
Asia, and between The Jokhang, a in the 1980s under the sponsor-
Kashmir and Tibet. The modern ecumenical ship of Japanese Buddhists, is
large Main Bazaar, with Buddhist establish- situated on a hilltop west of
its broad kerbs, was ment, and the town the city.
clearly designed to mosque, built in the Less than ten minutes’ walk,
facilitate the passage The Buddha, late 17th century, are in any direction away from the
of horses, donkeys and Leh Palace close to each other heart of town, will bring one
camels, and to provide in the Main Bazaar. to a green area or gold,
room for the display and Between there and the
storage of merchandise. Polo Ground, at the
The town is dominated by eastern end of town,
the nine-storeyed Leh Palace, is the fascinating Old
built in the 1630s by Sengge Town, with its maze of
Namgyal. A prolific builder of narrow alleys dotted
monasteries and forts, with with chortens and mani
many conquests to his name, walls, and its cluster of
he was Ladakh’s most famous flat-roofed houses
king. The palace’s massive constructed
inward-leaning walls are in the of sunbaked bricks.
same architectural tradition as On the peak above the
Lhasa’s Potala Palace, which, in town are the small fort
fact, the Leh Palace antedates and monastery complex
by about 50 years. Sadly, the of Namgyal Tsemo (mid-
solidity of its exterior belies the 16th century), believed
dilapidation inside, although to be the earliest royal
some repair work is now being residence in Leh. Next
done. Visitors can go up to the to its now-ruined fort are
open terrace on the level above a gonkhang (Temple of
the main entrance. the Guardian Deities) and
Much of Leh’s charm lies in a temple to Maitreya (the
the opportunities it offers for Future Buddha), both of Barley fields around Leh
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp695–6 and p708


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LAD AKH , JA MMU & K ASHMIR  141


hilltop, so close to the
airport that the wings Festivals of Ladakh,
of landing aircraft come Jammu & Kashmir
perilously close to its
walls, is the 15th­century Hemis Festival (Jun/Jul),
Spituk Monastery, the Hemis. Of all Ladakh’s
oldest establishment monastery festivals (see
of the Gelugpa sect in p144) the one at Hemis
is the most famous. This
Ladakh. It houses the religious performance
library of Tsongkapa, with colourful masks and
the sect’s founder, and costumes, offers a wonder­
a shrine devoted to the fully authentic experience
goddess Tara (see p145) in of Buddhist culture.
her myriad manifestations.
Situated in one of Ladakh’s
most charming villages,
Phiyang Monastery, is
one of only two that
represent the Drigungpa
An archery contest near Leh sect. It was founded by
Ladakh’s 16th­century
depending on the season. Down ruler, Tashi Namgyal, supposedly
the hill in the village of Skara, as an act of atone ment for the
the massive mud walls of the violence and treachery by
19th­century Zorawar Fort catch which he came to the throne. Masked dancers performing at the
the eye. Another lovely walk is Among its many treasures is a Hemis Festival
up past the Moravian Church to large and interesting collection
the serene village of Changspa of Kashmiri bronzes of Buddhist Sindhu Darshan (11–13
with its ancient chorten. From deities, dating back to the 13th Jun), Leh. This festival is
here a road turns towards the century, or possibly even earlier. held annually as a homage
beautifully maintained 19th­ to the Indus. Held on the
century Sankar Monastery, P Leh Palace river banks, it includes
with its impressive images Open daily. 8 Book in advance. exhibitions, polo matches
of Avalokitesvara and of Vajra­ & and archery contests.
Bhairav, Guardian of the  Namgyal Tsemo Ladakh Festival (20–26 Sep),
Gelugpa order (see p143). Open daily. 8 Book in advance. Leh and Kargil. Subsidized
by the Tourism Department,
Environs E Ecological Centre this is held for a week in the
Choglamsar, 10 km (6 miles) Open Mon–Fri. Tel (01982) 253 221. Sindhu Sanskriti Hall, as well
south of Leh, is the main  Jokhang as in Kargil and some select ed
villages. Apart from the
Tibetan refugee settlement Open daily. traditional masked dances,
in Ladakh. It includes the Dalai  Sankar Monastery the events include polo
Lama’s prayer ground, known Open daily. & matches and archery contests
as Shanti Sthal, an SOS – both being popular
Children’s Village, the Central  Spituk Monastery traditional sports in the region.
Institute of Buddhist Studies, Open daily. & Photography with A handicrafts exhibition is
a solar­heated hospital and permission of the lama­in­charge. also held.
workshops that promote  Phiyang Monastery Thikse Festival (Oct/Nov),
colourful Tibetan handicrafts. Open daily. & Photography with Thikse. The annual festival of
Dramatically situated on a permission of the lama­in­charge. the Gelugpa sect takes place
in a beautiful setting. The
precise dates of monastery
festivals are fixed according
to the Tibetan lunar calendar
and vary every year.
Milad-ul-Nabi (Apr/May),
Srinagar. The Prophet’s
birthday is celebrated
with special fervour at the
Hazratbal Mosque, when
its sacred relic, a lock of the
Prophet’s hair, is displayed
to devotees.
Spituk Monastery’s labyrinth of shrines linked by narrow passages




140-141_EW_India.indd 141 26/04/17 11:43 am

142  DELHI & THE NOR TH


Monasteries Along the Indus

Several of Ladakh’s world-famous monasteries are
situated along the Indus Valley, the region’s historical
and cultural heartland. Typically, a Ladakhi monastery
(gompa) stands on a hill or ridge above the village that
adjoins it. Its upper part consists of temples (lhakhang)
and assembly halls (dukhang), together with the
gonkhang, the Temple of the Fearsome Guardian
Deities. The monks’ dwellings spill picturesquely
down the hillside. The monasteries are still active
centres of worship, so approach them respectfully. Monks dancing in the courtyard of
Lamayuru Monastery

. Basgo has
beautiful 16th-
century murals
in its fort and
temple dedicated
to Maitreya, the
. Likir, founded in the 12th century, houses a Future Buddha. It
fine collection of thangkas and images, the latter was the capital of
enclosed in beautifully carved wooden frames. Lower Ladakh in
the 14th and
15th centuries.
Kargil

Indus
Likir
Lamayuru
Ri-dzong
Basgo Nubra Valley
Alchi
(see pp144–6) Leh
(see pp136–7)
Indus
Shey
Zanskar Valley Stok Thikse
Hemis (see p144) is Darhuk
Ri-dzong is built on top of a ridge Ladakh’s largest and
of glacial debris, which blocks a richest monastery. Stakna Thak-thok
winding gorge. It was founded in It has superb murals
the 1840s by the Gelugpa sect, 0 kilometres 15 and thangkas. Chemrey
and its monks follow a particularly Hemis
austere regime. 0 miles 15


Lamayuru is dramatically
situated on a high spur
overlooking an eerily eroded
landscape. Believed to date Manali
to the 11th century, its oldest
temple has a famous image
of Vairocana, the Central Stakna, built in the early 17th
Buddha of Meditation (see century, has an exquisite silver
p150). Lamayuru also has a chorten in its dukhang, surrounded
fine collection of thangkas. by vividly coloured murals.

For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp695–6 and p708 For keys to symbols see back flap


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Stok Palace, residence of Ladakh’s erstwhile royal family
2 Stok 3 Shey
. Thikse, a 15th-century
architectural gem crowning Ladakh district. 14 km (9 miles) Ladakh district. 15 km (9 miles) SE of
the crest of a hill, is a Gelugpa SW of Leh. @ n Leh Tourist Office, Leh. @ n Leh Tourist Office, (01982)
(01982) 252 094/297. _ Stok
252 094/297. _ Shey Shrubla (1st week
monastery that also has
a modern Maitreya temple, Monastic Festival (Feb/Mar). Stok of Sep). Shey Palace: Open daily. &
consecrated by the Dalai Lama. Palace: Open May–Oct. & ^ Shey was the ancient capital
The palace at Stok has been the of Ladakh. Its abandoned
residence of the Namgyals, palace contains a temple with
the former rulers of Ladakh, a gigantic late 17th-century
since its indepen dence in 1843. Buddha image, surrounded by
Part of the palace has been murals of deities painted in
converted into a fine museum rich colours and gold. Another
of the dynasty and its history. beautiful Buddha image is
Its collections include a set of 35 housed in a nearby temple.
thangkas (see p127) representing Just below the palace are
the life of the Buddha, and said huge 11th-century rock
. Chemrey, perched on to have been commissioned by carvings of the Five Buddhas
a hilltop and dating from the 16th-century king, Tashi of Meditation (see p150).
the 1640s, houses Buddhist Namgyal. Images and ritual
scriptures with silver covers religious objects, such as the
Kargil
and gold lettering. bell and dorje (thunderbolt), are
Thak-thok Monastery of unsurpassed workmanship.
Indus Secular objects include fine
Likir belongs to the Nyingmapa
Lamayuru jade cups, the queens’ jew ellery,
Ri-dzong sect. It is built around a cave
that Guru Padmasambhava, including a spectacular
Basgo Nubra Valley the 8th-century saint, is headdress, the kings’ turban-
believed to have used shaped crown, and ceremonial
for meditation. robes. There is also a sword
Alchi
(see pp144–6) Leh with its blade twisted into
(see pp136–7) a knot, said to have been
contorted by the enormous A Ladakhi couple bringing their baby
Indus strength of Tashi Namgyal. to be blessed at Shey
Shey
Zanskar Valley Stok Thikse Buddhist Sects in Ladakh
Darhuk Five sects of Tibetan Buddhism are represented in Ladakh.
Thak-thok monastery belongs to the Nyingmapa, which is based
Stakna Thak-thok on the teachings of the 8th-century saint, Padmasambhava
(see p124), while Matho (see p144), with its oracle monks, belongs
Chemrey to the Sakyapa. The Drugpa and Drigungpa sects are based on the
Hemis teachings of a line of Indian masters from the 11th century. The
lamas of all these sects wear red hats on ceremonial occasions.
The lamas who wear yellow
hats belong to the reformist
Gelugpa sect, which is headed
by the Dalai Lama (see p127)
and exercised political control
in Tibet until 1959. Apart from
Manali
Thak-thok and Matho, and the
two Drigungpa monasteries of
Phiyang (see p141) and Lama-
Key yuru, all Ladakh’s monasteries
belong to either the Drugpa or
Road
Gelugpa sects. Monks of the Gelugpa sect chanting prayers
See also features on Little Tibet (p127), Buddhist Iconography (p145), and In the Buddha’s Footsteps (p225)

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144  DELHI & THE NOR TH


The Oracles answer questions Namgyal dynasty. Of its several
put to them about public temples, the most rewarding is
and private affairs, and great the tshog-khang, a secondary
faith is reposed in their assembly hall that contains
predictions. Matho also has a fine image of the Buddha in
a small museum with a rare front of a huge silver chorten
collection of 16th-century set with flawless turquoises.
thangkas and costumes. Hemis is also renowned
for its spectacular annual
festival, dedicated to Guru
5 Hemis Monastery Padmasambhava, the 8th-
century Indian apostle who
Leh district. 43 km (27 miles) SE of Leh.
@ Open daily. & _ Annual Hemis took Buddhism to Tibet.
Festival (Jun). A unique feature of this festival,
which is held in the summer
Dance of the Oracle at the 16th-century Tucked away up a winding and attracts huge crowds,
Matho Monastery glen in the mountains south of is the 12-yearly unveiling
the Indus, Hemis is the largest of the monastery’s greatest
4 Matho Monastery as well as the richest of the treasure – an enormous,
central Ladakh monasteries. three-storey high thangka of
Leh district. 30 km (19 miles) SE of Leh.
@ Open daily. & _ Annual Matho It was founded in the 1630s Padmasambhava, embroidered
Festival (Feb/Mar). as a Drugpa establishment by and studded with pearls
King Sengge Namgyal, and and semiprecious stones.
The only monastery in Ladakh continued to be the most The last unveiling of the
of the Sakyapa sect (see p143), favoured monastery of the thangka took place in 2016.
Matho, built in the early 16th
century, is also one of the few
that continues to attract many
new entrants. Its main impor-
tance, however, lies in its Oracles
– two monks, who, after months
of purification by fasting and
meditation, are possessed by
a deity. This event takes place
during Matho’s annual festival,
held between February and
March. The drama of the occasion
is tremendous, as the Oracles
traverse the topmost parapet
of the monastery blindfolded,
despite the 30-m (98-ft)
drop onto the rocks below. The giant thangka unfurled during the festival at Hemis Monastery
The Monastic Dance-Dramas of Ladakh
The dance-dramas performed at Ladakh’s annual monastery festivals are immensely popular events,
constituting a link between popular and esoteric Buddhism. Attended by high lamas and novice monks
in their ceremonial robes and hats, as well as by local families dressed in their splendid traditional
costumes, these events are a vibrant expression of age-old cultural and religious values. The dancers,
representing divine or mythological figures, wear colourful brocade robes and heavy masks, as they
perform ceremonial dances around the monastery courtyard. The solemnity of the occasion is lightened
by comic interludes performed by dancers in skeleton
costumes, who bound into the arena performing agile
gymnastics, and caricaturing the solemn rites just
enacted, to the delight of the assembled spectators.
In the climactic scene the masked figures ritually
dismember a doll moulded from barley flour dough
(perhaps symbolizing the human soul) and scatter its
fragments in all directions. Besides attracting large
numbers of outside visitors, these monastery festivals
also provide people from far-flung Ladakhi villages
with an eagerly awaited opportunity to meet each
Masked dancers at a monastery festival other and exchange news and views.

For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp695–6 and p708


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LAD AKH , JA MMU & K ASHMIR  145


Buddhist Iconography

The external manifestations of Buddhism are ubiquitous in Leh district and Zanskar –
prayer flags fluttering in the breeze, prayer wheels turning in the hands of the elderly,
chortens and mani walls inset with stone slabs carved with the sacred invocation
Om mani padme hum (“Hail to the Jewel in the Lotus”). Inside the monasteries, the
iconography is more complex. Each divinity of the Mahayana Buddhist pantheon
is depicted in several different manifestations, together with a host of saints, teachers
and mythical figures, mandalas and allegorical compositions. Shown below are
some images that are encountered most frequently.
The Bodhisattvas
Bodhisattvas are supremely compassionate almost-Buddhas who have
attained enlightenment but are willing to forgo nirvana so that they
can help others obtain liberation from the endless cycle of rebirths.
Tara is the Avalokitesvara, the
female form of Bodhisattva of
Avalokitesvara and Compassion, is often
is depicted in 21 shown with 11 heads and
different forms. multiple arms, symbolizing
his benign omnipresence.

Manjushri, the
Bodhisattva
of Wisdom,
bears a flaming
sword in his
hand, to cut
through
the fog of
ignorance.


Guardian Deities are
usually represented as
fierce forms, with skull
headdresses, wicked
fangs and flames in place
of hair. Most commonly
seen is Mahakala,
usually above the main
door of a temple.







The Lords of
the Four Quarters
guard the four
cardinal directions.
The Lord of the
North is recognized
The Wheel of Life, with animated human and by the banner in
animal figures on it, is mostly painted on temple his right hand, and
verandahs. It shows the temptations and sins by a mongoose in
that make life on earth an endless misery. his left hand.
See also features on Little Tibet (p127) and In the Buddha’s Footsteps (p225).



144-145_EW_India.Indd 145 26/04/17 11:43 am

146  DELHI & THE NOR TH


crane, bar-headed geese and
the great crested grebe. Wild
asses, marmots and foxes can
also be seen in the region.
Among the human inhabitants
of Southeast Ladakh are the
nomadic herders, known as
Chang-pa, who brave extreme
cold (-40° C/-40° F in winter, and
freezing nights even in summer)
throughout the year, living in
their black yak-hair tents. They
raise yak and sheep, but their
main wealth is the pashmina
Glaciers and peaks encircling the blue-green waters of Pang-gong Tso goat. The severe cold of winter
stimulates the goats to grow an
6 Southeast shimmering in the ever-changing undercoat of soft warm fibre,
Ladakh blues and greens of the brackish which they shed at the beginning
water. Above Spangmik rise the of summer. This fibre, known as
Pang-gong Tso: Leh district. 150 km glaciers and snowcapped peaks pashm, is the raw material for
(93 miles) SE of Leh. Tso Moriri: Leh of the Pang-gong Range. Kashmir’s renowned shawl
district. 220 km (137 miles) SE of Leh. Tso Moriri, 30 km (19 miles) to industry and is, in fact, the unpro-
n Leh Tourist Office, (01982) 252 the south of Pang-gong Tso is a cessed form of the world-famous
297. Travel permits: required. Contact
Deputy Commissioner, Leh, (01982) 140-sq km (54-sq mile) expanse cashmere wool. The lucrative
252 010. Permits are granted on of intensely blue water. At an trade in pashm from Ladakh’s
condition that visitors travel in groups altitude of 4,600 m (15,092 high-altitude
of not fewer than four, with the tour ft), it is set among rolling pastures as well as
organized by a registered travel agent hills behind which lie from Western Tibet
along specific tour routes. For more snow-covered was the motive
details, see p157. mountains. The behind Ladakh’s
region’s only annexation by the
Southeast Ladakh, on the permanent Maharaja of
sensitive international border settlement, Pashmina goat Kashmir in 1834.
with Tibet, is a region with Karzok, is on the
a series of spectacularly lake’s western shore and Environs
beautiful lakes. The two major comprises a handful of houses The twin lakes of Tso Kar and
lakes, Pang-gong Tso and Tso and a monastery, whose barley Startsapuk Tso are 80 km (50
Moriri, are accessible by road, fields must be among the highest miles) north of Tso Moriri, on
although there are no cultivated areas in the world. the road to Leh. Startsapuk Tso
scheduled bus services. The lake and its freshwater has fresh water, but Tso Kar is
The biggest of the lakes is the inlets are breeding areas for so briny that the Chang-pa
narrow Pang-gong Tso. It is 130- many species of migratory birds, herders regularly collect salt
km (81-mile) in length and lies such as the rare black-necked from deposits near its margins.
at an altitude of 4,420 m (14,500
ft), extending far into Western
Tibet. Visitors may go as far as The Caravan Trade
Spangmik, 7 km (4 miles) along For centuries, until 1949, Ladakh was the route for a busy
the lake’s southern shore, from trade between Punjab and Central Asia. The caravans
where there are spectacular invariably halted at Leh (see pp140–41), where a lot
views to the north of the Chang- of business was transacted, before proceeding
chenmo Range, its reflection to cross the 5,578-m (18,301-ft) high
Karakoram Pass, one of the highest points
on any trade route in the world.
In summer the caravans traversed Nubra,
while in winter they crossed the upper
valley of the Shayok river. Every year, over
10,000 pack animals – horses, yaks, Bactrian
camels and an especially sturdy breed of
local sheep – traversed the Nubra
region, carrying Varanasi brocades,
Chinese silk, pearls, spices, Indian
tea, pashm wool, salt, indigo, A Ladakhi horseman taking a break
Tso Moriri, a breeding ground for the great opium, carpets, and gold. for prayers
crested grebe
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp695–6 and p708


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LAD AKH , JA MMU & K ASHMIR  147


7 Nubra Valley Tour

The tour of the Nubra region starts from Leh and
follows the old caravan trade route to Central Asia,
a “feeder” of the famous Silk Route. It takes in the
world’s highest motorable mountain pass – the
Khardung-la, pretty villages with banks of wild
flowers and stands of willow and poplar, valleys
covered with seabuckthorn shrubs, stretches of
sand dunes and double-humped Bactrian camels,
remote monasteries, and medicinal hot springs. The Karakoram Range, visible from the top of
the Khardung-la
6 Panamik
A major halt on the caravan
trade route, Panamik also
has medicinal hot springs. This
Panamik lady is seen in her
local traditional dress.

3 Hundar Lhayul Gompa
The fascinating vista of sand
dunes between Diskit and
Hundar can be explored on
the back of a Bactrian camel. Nubra



Shayok
4 Shayok-
Nubra confluence
Flat sandy plains
surround the
confluence of
these two rivers.


5 Samstangling Shayok
Overlooking the Kargil
green fields of Sumur
village, this 19th-
century monastery 2 Diskit
has impressive images. Leh Diskit, which has the
region’s only bazaar,
also has a 17th-century
Tips for Drivers monastery with
Leh
Length: 195 km (121 miles). exquisite murals.
Getting around: This tour takes
three days. Diskit, Hundar and 1 Khardung-la
Panamik have guesthouses and From the top of this pass (5,578 m/18,301 ft)
camps, for overnight stays. there are superb views, south over the
Travel permits: Visitors must Zanskar Range, and north to the towering
obtain an Inner Line Permit from Saser Spur of the Karakoram Range.
the Deputy Commissioner, Leh,
(01982) 252 010, to travel in
the Nubra region. Permits are 0 kilometres Key
granted only to groups of four 8 Tour route
or more, and should be carried 0 miles 8 Other road
all the time.
River




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148  DELHI & THE NOR TH

8 Alchi Monastery

Founded in the early 12th century AD, the religious
enclave of Alchi is the jewel among Ladakh’s monasteries.
For reasons unknown, Alchi was abandoned as a site of
active worship, as early as the 16th century, and so the
12th- and 13th-century paintings in its temples have
remained remarkably well preserved, undimmed by
the soot from butter lamps and incense sticks. Of the Lhakhang Soma
five temples in the enclave, the finest murals are in This painting of a Guardian
the two oldest, the Dukhang and the Sumtsek. These Deity and his female
have been executed with great delicacy and skill by counterpart symbolizes
the union of opposites.
master painters who were probably from Kashmir.


















KEY
1 Avalokitesvara is a gigantic
statue in the Sumtsek, whose legs
are covered with exquisite miniature
paintings of palaces and Buddhist
pilgrimage sites.
2 Chortens containing holy relics
are dotted around the complex.
They are often built in memory
of a great lama.
3 Lotsawa Lhakhang
4 Manjushri Lhakhang, one of the
five temples, contains a large image
of Manjushri (see p145).


Green Tara
There are several exquisite images
of this goddess, variously identified
as Green Tara, the Saviour, and
Prajnaparamita (the Perfection
of Wisdom) in the Sumtsek. Five of
them are to the left of the gigantic
Avalokitesvara statue, opposite his
leg. The Green Tara seems to have
held a special place in Alchi, since . Sumtsek
the goddess is not given such The carved wooden façade
Green Tara or Prajnaparamita importance in other monasteries. of this temple is in the style of
Kashmiri temple architecture.
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp695–6 and p708


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