(DK Eyewitness) Travel Guide - India

INTRODUCING WESTERN INDIA  349

on ancient feudal codes of conduct and
honour. As recently as 1987, an incident
of sati took place here, when a young
wid ow burnt herself on her husband’s
fun eral pyre, while the whole village
watch ed in admiration. But things are
changing: female literacy in Rajasthan,
which was just 20 per cent in the early
1990s has increased to over 67 per cent in
2013, and women now head many village
government councils. Rural development
schemes have brought schools, hospitals
and water to remote desert villages.
What has still not changed, however, is
the old-world courtesy and hospitality
encountered everywhere in Raja sthan,
be it in a princely palace or a mud hut
in the desert.
In sharp contrast with Rajasthan, Gujarat
is one of the most industrially advanced The Tarnetar Fair in Gujarat
and urbanized states in the country –
around 43 per cent of its population lives 20th centuries, many Guj aratis sailed to
in cities. The Gujaratis’ legendary business far off lands in search of new opportunities,
acumen has helped make the state one and today their descendants (many of
of the most prosperous in India. them with the surnames Patel and Shah)
While the forbidding expanses of the are flourishing – be it as hoteliers in
Thar Desert had for centuries effectively America, retail traders in Britain,
insulated Rajasthani society, Gujarat’s industrialists in Nigeria or lawyers in
1,600 km (994 miles) of coastline on the South Africa.
Arabian Sea have helped foster contacts Gujaratis have been deeply influenced
with other lands and cultures, and bred by Jainism (see p400), which took hold
an adventurous spirit in the people. Since in the region in the 13th century, during
ancient times, Gujarat has traded with the reign of the Solanki kings and thrived
Arabs and Persians, East Africa, China, together with Hinduism in Gujarat.
and Indonesia, through its ports at Surat Jainism’s emphasis on non-violence,
(see pp424–5) and Mandvi (see p433), while community service, simple living and
from the 16th century onwards European high thinking was an integral part of
traders established their bases along the philosophy of Gujarat’s most famous
the coastline. In the late 19th and early son, Mahatma Gandhi, who led India’s
struggle for independence (see p60).
Ordinary mortals too try to follow this
creed in their daily lives. Most Gujaratis,
whether at home or abroad, are strict
vegetarians, known for their toughness
and self reliance, and for their thrift and
philanthropy. These qualities were
especially evident after the devastating
earthquake that hit Gujarat in January
2001 (see p432), from which the state
Rajasthani women preparing lunch has made a remarkable recovery.




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350  WESTERN INDIA


Forts and Palaces

The spectacular forts of Rajasthan were originally
forbidding, defensive citadels, but by the mid-16th century,
when most Rajput states had made peace with the Mughals,
luxurious palaces, pleasure pavilions and gardens were
added to them, displaying many Mughal-inspired features.
In the late 19th and early 20th century there was another
spate of palace-building in both Rajasthan and Gujarat.
As a result of increasing contact between the British Raj
and the princely states, a marked European influence in
both architecture and decor is visible in these palaces.
Sileh Khanas (armouries) Cannons to defend the fort are
store a variety of weapons, mounted on bastions, which
from ceremonial jewelled tower high above
swords to sharp knuckle- the surrounding area.
dusters, and even special
armour for war elephants.
Ramparts follow
the meandering Rana Kumbha’s
contours of the hill. Palace
















Entrance gates such as the
highly decorated Ganesh Pol on
Amber Fort’s south side lead to
the private palaces of the kings
and their beautiful gardens.
Types of Forts
Ancient Indian treatises list six types of forts for good defences.
While giri durgs (hill forts) such as Chittorgarh are the most
impregnable, other effective types are dhanva durg, isolated
by desert, such as Jaisalmer (see pp392–3); vana durg, sheltered
with forest, such as Ranthambhore (see pp410–11); mahi durg,
protected by thick
mud walls, such as
Bharatpur’s Lohagarh
(see p371); jala durg,
set back by water,
such as Ghagron
(see p407); and nara
durg, a city fort such
Water reservoirs, often fed by as Nagaur (see p380),
underground springs, are found Ghagron Fort in Rajasthan, an example of a fort guarded mainly
in forts in the arid areas of protected by water by trusted men.
Rajasthan and Gujarat.





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INTRODUCING WESTERN INDIA  351



Palaces
Palaces built by maharajas during the Raj, unlike
those in the old forts, had modern plumbing,
drawing rooms and dining halls suitable for
entertaining British dignitaries.

Lalgarh Palace in
Bikaner (see pp382–
3) was built in 1902.
It beautifully
combines Rajput Wankaner Palace (see p431) was built between
decorative features 1907 and 1928. The ruler’s travels in Europe gave
with European him a taste for Italianate pillars and Gothic arches,
elements, such as crowned here with Mughal pavilions.
banquet halls and
billiard rooms.
Corridors and
staircases, that
The Victory Tower connect the private
was built in 1448 chambers in Rajput
after a successful palaces, are often
battle. Each of its narrow and twisting
nine storeys is
a temple. to confuse
enemy invaders.

Temples were
built by rulers and
merchants, who
believed their
deities protected
the fort.










Forts
Chittorgarh (see p406), founded in AD 728 but added
to at various times until the 16th century is, like many
Rajput forts, built on a commanding height above the
plains. Its massive ramparts encircle palaces, temples,
stables and reservoirs.


Sheesh Mahals (“Halls of Mirrors”)
are ceremonial halls inlaid with
mirrored mosaic. One candle,
reflected in the myriad mirrors,
makes the whole room glitter.
Zenanas (women’s quarters) have
secluded courtyards and exquisite stone
latticework (jali) screens. These let in
light and air, yet maintain privacy. Most
zenanas are large, because they also
housed the rulers’ many concubines.





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352  WESTERN INDIA


The Flavours of Western India

Rajasthan, largely scrub and desert and dominated by hill forts
of stone, has a simple cuisine dictated by the landscape and
climate. As a result, the food here is more robust and strength-
giving, as is evident by the creative use of cereals and lentils.
The varied palate of Gujarat has emerged from its contact with
the different communities who have settled in this state. What
is commonly called Gujarati food is vegetarian with the regional
variations of North and South Gujarat, Kathaiwar and Kutch. It
is a delicate balance of the spicy and sweet, and its infinite variety Bunch of fenugreek
of dishes can be sampled in the Gujarati thali (platter).

are used to make up for the The cuisine of the martial Rajput
water scarcity. Other substitutes clans includes highly seasoned
are amchur or dried mango meat dishes. The most famous
powder, used instead of toma- is lal maas, a lamb dish cooked
toes, and asafetida to enhance with ghee and red chillies.
taste. Desert plants such as A variation is the safed maas,
sangri (Prosopsis cineraria) beans a “white” curry with yoghurt
and khair (Capparis decidua) and nuts. Khud khargosh is a
have great nutritional value. summer special where wild
These are dried and cooked hare is stuffed with spices, sealed
with oil and spices to make in dough and roasted in cloth.
khair-sangri. Mint, turmeric, Spicy lentils, split peas,
An array of tangy savouries, very popular mango and garlic chutneys are peanuts and puffed rice are
among Rajasthanis popular accompaniments. used in crunchy savoury snacks,
Rajasthan Puri (deep-fried Missi roti (spicy Lachha paratha Pudina paratha
Khakra
The best-known dish here is (wheat bread) wheat wafer) (layered bread) (layered bread,
dal-baati, a lentil curry with wafer) naan with mint)
wheat-dough balls, which can
be buried in the sand for baking.
The same baati, when crumbled
and garnished with raisins and
almonds, is transformed into a
rich sweet called chorma. This
food can be carried for days
through the parched landscape.
In the desert districts, milk, ghee
(clarified butter) and buttermilk A selection of breads from Rajasthan and Gujarat
Local Dishes and Specialities
Vegetarian food dominates the cuisine of
Rajasthan and Gujarat, both states having
been strongly influenced by Jainism
and Vaishnavism, which forbid
animal slaughter. Rajasthan’s
cereal-based diet includes kadhi
(lentil and yoghurt soup), types of
khichdi (rich rice preparations) and
breads made from bajra (millet) and
Khandvi and dhokla jowar (sorghum maize). Gujarati cuisine
uses a wide range of protein-rich lentils,
cereals and vegetables, distinguished by wonder fully subtle Undhiyo, a Gujarati thali
seasoning. Pickles, often made of kairi (green mango), are a basic dish, consists of yams, potatoes
part of it. Sweets include the seasonal aamras (mango fool) and and aubergines (eggplant)
doodh pak, made with thick sweetened milk, dried fruit and nuts. roasted in an earthenware pot.






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INTRODUCING WESTERN INDIA  353



dollop of ghee at the end.
Jaggery or sugar is used to
sweeten every dish, and the
food is usually seasoned with
mustard, asafetida and
fenugreek, used both for
flavour and digestion.
Integral to a meal are crisp
farsaans, particularly dhokla
(steamed spongy cakes of chick-
pea flour and yoghurt), khandvi
(chickpea flour rolls filled with
coconut), mirchi pakora (green
Women selling fresh vegetables in a Rajasthan village chilly fritters) and khakra (wafers).
Saurashtra is famous for pickles
such as bhujia, dal-moth and a savoury griddled bread and methia masala, made from
khatta-meetha sev. made from chickpea flour. Rice powdered fenugreek, chillies
specialities, such as khichdi (a and salt and used as a salad
nourishing mixture of rice and dressing, while from the bakeries
Gujarat five kinds of lentils), vangi bhat, of Surat come wonderful local
Gujarat has large vegetarian (rice with aubergines and biscuits, nankhatais.
communities of Hindus and coriander) and masala bhat
Jains, who, as practitioners of (spicy rice) are made more ON THE MENU
non-violence, have developed tempting by the addition of a
an extremely refined vegetarian Batata nu shak A dry spicy
cuisine, rated as one of India’s potato preparation.
most sophisticated. A typical Besan halwa A sweet made
thali contains innumerable from chickpea flour.
small bowls (katoris), filled with Dahi pakora Lentil dumplings
vegetables, lentils, farsaans in yoghurt.
(savoury snacks), pickles, Kadhi A light curry made with
chutneys, breads and sweets. chickpeas and lentils.
This meal allows a person to
savour the delicate balance Makki soyta Corn kernels in a
of flavours – sweet and sour, spicy sauce.
salty and spicy, crisp and soft, Mattar ki kachori Fried bread
low fat and deep-fried. stuffed with peas.
Bajra (millet) is the staple grain Mula ni kadi Yoghurt curry
of the Saurashtra peninsula and with white radish.
Kutch district in Gujarat and is Paunk Mixed vegetables
used to make the rotlis (baked seasoned with lime and jaggery,
bread) that are eaten with most Young girls gathering red chillies that a winter dish, popular in Surat.
meals. Another bread is thepla, have been sun-dried














Gatta curry has steamed Sulas, a speciality of Rajput Shrikhand is a dessert made
dumplings made from chickpea clans, is barbecued meat from yoghurt flavoured with
flour cooked in a spiced softened with a paste made saffron, cardamom, nuts
yoghurt sauce. from a melon-type fruit. and dried fruits.






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WESTERN INDIA  355

RAJASTHAN

No state in India is as rich in magnificent palaces and forts, colourful
festivals and bazaars, as Rajasthan. Stretching over 342,200 sq km
(132,124 sq miles), the state is bisected by the Aravalli Range, which
runs diagonally from the northeast to the southwest. Its main river
is the Chambal. The Thar Desert, which covers western Rajasthan,
was once ruled by three great kingdoms – Jaisalmer, Jodhpur and
Bikaner. Shekhawati, with its painted havelis, is in the semi-arid north,
while the eastern plains have the bustling state capital, Jaipur, and
the Ranthambhore National Park, famous for its tigers. In the hilly,
wooded south are the fairy-tale palaces, lakes and forts of Udaipur, and
the spectacular Jain temples at Ranakpur, and Dilwara in Mount Abu.


Sights at a Glance
Towns, Cities & Districts Forts & Palaces National Parks
q Ajmer 2 Amber Fort 4 Keoladeo Ghana National Park
6 Alwar g Chittorgarh l Ranthambhore National Park
o Barmer 5 Deeg 7 Sariska National Park
3 Bharatpur s Kumbhalgarh
e Bikaner Tours
k Bundi Temples & Holy Places 9 A Tour of Shekhawati
f Dungarpur 0 Pushkar i Camel Safari around Jaisalmer
1 Jaipur a Ranakpur y Tour of Marwar Crafts Villages
u Jaisalmer
h Jhalawar Hill Stations
t Jodhpur p Mount Abu
j Kota 0 kilometres 100
w Nagaur Ganganagar
•
r Phalodi 0 miles 100
8 Shekhawati
NH15
d Udaipur
NH65
Delhi
•
Ramgarh
• Fatehpur
NH11
Gajner
T h a r D e s e r t NH15 • •Deshnok •
Sikar • NH8
NH89
Osian NH65 NH11A NH11
NH114
• •
Dausa
NH112 NH118
• Tonk
• Beawar C hambal
• •
Pali Sawai Madhopur
• NH79
Deogarh Bhilwara NH12
NH14 • Bijolia NH25
NH15
Sirohi • • Kankroli • •
Bardoli NH76
NH76 NH3
Deogarh
NH8 •
Key NH113 NH79
National highway • Biaora
• Banswara
Major road
Major railway • Bhopal
International border
State border
Panoramic view of the historic Amber Fort in Jaipur For keys to symbols see back flap
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356  WESTERN INDIA

1 Jaipur

A labyrinth of fascinating bazaars, opulent palaces
and historic sights, Jaipur is often called the “Pink City”
because its prominent buildings are washed in this
colour. Tradition and modernity exist side by side here.
On its colourful streets, motorbikes jostle for space
with camels, and turbaned village elders rub shoulders
with youngsters in jeans. Jaipur’s old walled area has
the City Palace, an astronomical observatory and
bazaars that sell everything from shoes to jewellery.
Recent additions include a multi-arts centre, but the Govind Dev Temple, dedicated to Krishna
focal point remains the Hawa Mahal.

E City Palace Museum opposite end of the garden, P Hawa Mahal
See pp360–61. and installed the image as the Sireh Deori Bazaar. Tel (0141) 261 8862.
guardian deity of Jaipur’s rulers. Open daily. Closed public hols. Jal Mahal,
Y Govind Dev Temple Just behind the temple is & Extra charges for photography. GAITOR Jaigarh &
Jaleb Chowk (at City Palace). Open the 18th-century Jai Niwas 8 9 Amber Fort
daily. _ Holi (Mar), Janmashtami Bagh, a Mughal-style garden A whimsical addition to
(Aug/Sep), Annakut (Oct/Nov). with fountains and water Rajasthan’s rich architectural RAMGARH
The presiding deity of this channels. Towards the north is vocabulary, the fanciful Hawa Talkatora Joriwar
unusual temple is the flute- the Badal Mahal, an enchanting Mahal or “Palace of Winds” Chaugan Jai Niwas Singh Gate
Bagh
playing Lord Krishna (also hunting pavilion. was erected in
known as Govind Dev). The R OA D BA G RO O WALON K A R AS TA JA I LA L M U N SH I G A NG A URI BAZ A AR Stadium
Govind Dev
image of this god originally P Chaugan Stadium KA NT IC H AND RA R OAD CHAND K A R AS TA Temple MOT I K AT R A B AZ A AR
J HO TWA RA
came from the Govindeoji Brahmpuri. Open daily. POLE City Palace
Museum
Temple in Brindavan (see p183). This large open area near Inter-state PAT H C H AN DP O L E BA ZA AR HAWA M A HA L BA ZA AR THE
It was brought to Amber (see the City Palace derives ROAD COLLECTORATE Bus Terminal Jantar Hawa PINK CITY
Mahal
V IJ AY
pp368–70), then the capital of its name from S A N S AR C H A N D R A R D KALYAN J I KA R A STA Mantar G HO R A N IK AS R O A D
Jaipur’s ruling family, in the chaugan, an ancient STAT IO N R OAD VA N A SATH LI K HAJ AN E WALO N K A RA STA T RI P OLI A BAZ AAR
Jami
late 17th century to save it from Persian form of Jaipur Railway K I SH AN P O LE B A Z AAR Masjid R AM GA N J B A ZA A R
M A RG
Station
the iconoclastic zeal of the polo played with C HA UR A R A STA
Mughal emperor Aurangzeb. a curved stick. The G O P I N AT H M A R G I N DI RA BA ZA A R JO H ARI BA ZA A R GALTA
It is believed that this temple area was once M IR ZA I S M A IL RO AD N E H R U
was once a garden pavilion used for festival A J M ER R O AD Ajmeri B A Z AAR B A P U GH AT DA R WAJ A BA Z A AR
Gate
D A S R OA D
called Suraj Mahal, where processions and New B A Z AA R
Sawai Jai Singh II lived while wrestling matches, AJMER SA R D AR PAT EL M AR G B H AG WA N Gate Sanganeri
Gate
his dream-city, Jaipur, was being as well as elephant MALV IYA M AR G ARO J I N I MAR G AS H OK M A RG
built. Legend has it that one and lion fights. Today S Albert Hall Jaipur Zoo Sisodia
night the king awoke from the stadium, with its P R I T HVI R A J R OAD MAHAVIR RD Museum Rani ka Bagh,
AGRA
Ram
his sleep to find himself in viewing pavilions, is Raj Mahal Niwas
Palace
the presence of Krishna, who the venue for the STATUE Bagh
CIRCLE
TI LA K MAR G
demanded that his devasthan famous Elephant SA RD A R PAT E L HOSPITAL ROAD M OT I D O O NG A R I R OA D
(“divine residence”) be returned Festival (see p375) held M ARG YUDHISTIR W A N D A S R D SMS
to him. Jai Singh then moved at the same time as Central Park Hospital
to the Chandra Mahal, at the the Holi celebrations. MARG S AWAI R AM S ING H R D JAWA H A RLA L NE H RU RO A D
B H A G
M ARG
BH AWA N I SI NG H
AMBEDKAR
CIRCLE N A R A I N S I N G H R D
Government Rambagh
House Palace Hotel
Jawahar Kala Kendra
& Moti Doongri Palace
Sanganer Airport
15km (9 miles) SANGANER
Sights at a Glance
1 City Palace Museum
2 Govind Dev Temple
3 Chaugan Stadium
4 Hawa Mahal
5 Albert Hall Museum
Walled city of Jaipur, a member of UNESCO’s Creative Cities Network 6 Jantar Mantar
For hotels and restaurants in this region see p699 and pp712–13
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JAIPUR  357


1799 by the aesthete Sawai Lord Krishna, the Hawa VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
Pratap Singh (r.1778–1803). Mahal, seen from afar, looks
Its ornate pink façade has like the mukut (crown) Practical Information
become an icon for the city. that often adorns the Jaipur district. 261 km (162 miles)
The tiered Baroque-like god’s head. SW of Delhi. * 2,324,500.
composition of projecting Visitors can climb up the n Paryatan Bhavan, Mirza Ismail
windows and balconies with winding ramp to the top, Rd, (0141) 511 0596. ( Mon–Sat.
perforated screens is five and a gateway towards the _ Kite Flying Festival (14 Jan),
storeys high but just one west leads into the complex. Elephant Festival (Mar), Gangaur
room deep, its walls not more Within are administrative (Mar/Apr), Teej (Jul/Aug).
than 20 cm (8 inches) thick. offices and the interesting Transport
Built of lime and mortar, the Archaeological Museum, k 15 km (9 miles) S of city
structure was designed in which houses a small centre. £ @
this way to enable the veiled collection of sculptures and
ladies of the harem to observe local handi crafts, including
unnoticed the lively street some utensils dating back E Albert Hall Museum
scenes below. Dedicated to to the 2nd century BC. Ram Niwas Bagh. Tel (0141) 257 0099.
Open Sat–Thu. Closed public hols.
& free on Mon. 9
Jal Mahal,
0 metres 500 GAITOR
Jaigarh & This grand, multi-layered museum
0 yards 500 Amber Fort was designed by Sir Samuel
Swinton Jacob, a master of the
RAMGARH
Indo-Saracenic style (see p26). The
Talkatora ground floor displays decorative
Joriwar
Chaugan Jai Niwas Singh Gate shields, embossed salvers and
BA G RO O WALON K A R AS TA local glazed pottery. A 9-m (30-ft)
Bagh
KA NT IC H AND RA R OA D R OA D CHAND JA I LA L M U N SH I K A R AS TA G A NG A URI BAZ A AR Stadium Temple MOT I K AT RA B AZ A AR scroll) depicts the life
long phad (painted cloth
Govind Dev
J HO TWA RA
City Palace
S A N S AR C H A N D R A R D KALYAN J I KA R A STA Mantar PINK CITY G HO R A N IK AS R O A D The museum’s
PAT H POLE C H A N DP O L E BA ZA AR Museum of Pabuji, a 14th-
Inter-state V IJ AY HAWA M A HA L BA ZA AR century folk
Bus Terminal Jantar Hawa THE hero (see p385).
Mahal
ROAD
most imposing
COLLECTORATE
T RIP OLI A BA Z AAR
Jami
Jaipur Railway STAT IO N R OAD VA NA SATH LI K HAJ AN E WALO N K A RA STA K I SH AN P O LE B A Z AAR Masjid R AM GA N J B A ZA A R treasure, how-
M A RG
Station G O P I N AT H M A R G I N DI RA BA ZA A R C HA UR A R A STA world’s largest
ever, is one of the
A J M ER R O AD M IR ZA I S M A IL RO AD Ajmeri B A Z AAR B A P U JO H ARI BA ZA A R GH AT DA R WAJ A BA Z A AR GALTA Fragment of a shield, Persian garden
N E H R U
carpets (dating from
Albert Hall Museum
SA R D AR PAT EL M AR G MALV IYA M AR G ARO J I N I MAR G D A S R OA D AS H OK M A RG Jaipur Zoo Gate viewed on request in the Durbar
Gate
New
AJMER B H AG WA N Gate B A Z AA R 1632). This can be
Sanganeri
Hall. The museum also has an
Sisodia
M OT I D O O NG A R I R OA D
dating back to the 16th century.
Museum
AGRA
Raj Mahal S STATUE MAHAVIR RD Albert Hall Niwas Rani ka Bagh, exten sive collection of paint ings
Ram
Palace
P R I T HVI R A J R OAD
SA RD A R PAT E L YUDHISTIR W A N D A S R D CIRCLE Central Park Hospital Bagh T Jantar Mantar
TI LA K MAR G
See pp362–3.
M ARG
HOSPITAL ROAD
SMS
MARG
B H A G S AWAI R AM S ING H R D JAWA H A RLA L NE H RU RO A D The Building of Jaipur
Sawai Jai Singh II was a keen scholar,
statesman and patron of the arts. When
M ARG
BH AWA N I SI N G H
AMBEDKAR he was just 11 years old , he was awarded
CIRCLE N A R A I N S I N G H R D
Government Rambagh the title of “Sawai” (“one-and-a-quarter”),
House Palace Hotel
Jawahar Kala Kendra a metaphor for one who is extraordinary,
& Moti Doongri Palace
Sanganer Airport by the Mughal emperor Aurangzeb. With
15km (9 miles) SANGANER the help of a gifted Bengali engineer,
Vidyadhar Chakravarty, Jai Singh built a new
capital south of Amber and named it Jaipur
Sawai Jai Singh II (“City of Victory”). Work began in 1727 and
Key (r.1700–43) took six years to complete. Surrounded by
Street-by-Street area: a crenellated wall pierced by seven gates,
see pp358–9 Jaipur is laid out in a geometric grid of streets and squares and is one
of India’s finest examples of a planned city.
For keys to symbols see back flap
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358  WESTERN INDIA

Street-by-Street: Around Badi Chaupar

The Badi Chaupar (“Large Square”) is at one end of the
colourful Tripolia Bazaar. Few changes have been made
to the original 18th-century plan of streets and squares.
Branching out of the main streets are narrow pedestrian
lanes, where artisans fashion puppets, silver jewellery,
and other local handicrafts in tiny workshops. Behind
are the havelis of former eminent citizens, some now
used as schools, shops and offices. The area is a hub of
activity, rich with pungent smells . Jantar Mantar
and vibrant colours, with Jai Singh II’s observatory of
temple bells adding to the astronomical instruments
looks like a series of futuristic
cacophony of street sounds. sculptures (see pp362–3).

Isar Lat
Ishwari Singh built
this tower in 1749 City Palace
to commemorate
his victory over
his stepbrother,
Madho Singh I.
Tripolia Gate
Constructed in 1734,
this impressive gate was
once the main entrance
to the palace.
B A Z A A R
T R I P O L I A









Chandpol MANIHARON KA RASTA C H A U R A R A S T A
Chhoti Chaupar
(“Small Square”)
leads to Kishan pol
Bazaar, famous N ATA N I Y O N K A R A S TA
for its shops
selling rose-,
saffron-, almond-
and vetiver-
flavoured
sherbets. K I S H A N P O L B A Z A A R




Maharaja Arts
College
Flower Sellers
Marigolds and other flowers are made Lac Bangles
into garlands and used as offerings to Maniharon ka Rasta is full
beloved deities in temples and of tiny workshops of lac
roadside shrines. bangle makers.
For hotels and restaurants in this region see p699 and pp712–13


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JAIPUR  359













. Hawa Mahal
A view of Hawa Mahal’s unusual rear façade
can be seen from the City Palace. . Johari Bazaar
Vegetable sellers sit at one
Badi Chaupar end of this street, where
many big gem dealers also
have their offices and shops.


Surajpol







B A Z A A R J O H A R I B A Z A A R








G O P A L J I K A R A S T A
C H A U R A R A S T A




Key
Suggested route
Tarkeshwar Temple



Jama Masjid
Tall minarets define the “Friday
Mosque”, its three storeys
fronted by arched screens.


0 metres 100
Pottery Shop 0 yards 100
Large terracotta urns, pots of all sizes, bells, statues,
foot-scrapers and oil lamps made by traditional
craftsmen are sold here.




358-359_EW_India.indd 359 26/04/17 11:46 am

360  WESTERN INDIA

Jaipur: City Palace Museum

Occupying the heart of Jai Singh II’s city, the City Palace
has been home to the rulers of Jaipur since the first half
of the 18th century. The sprawling complex is a superb
blend of Rajput and Mughal architecture, with open,
airy Mughal-style public buildings leading to private
apartments. Today, part of the complex is open to the
public as the Maharaja Sawai Man Singh II Museum,
popularly known as the City Palace Museum. Its treasures,
which include miniature paintings, manuscripts, Mughal
carpets, musical instruments, royal costumes and
weaponry, provide a splendid introduction to Jaipur’s . Pritam Niwas Chowk
princely past, and its fascinating arts and crafts. The “Court of the Beloved” has
four delicately painted doorways
representing the seasons.
Sileh Khana
The erstwhile armoury houses
the museum’s collection of
weapons, among the finest
in India. Some pieces,
such as this shield, are
lavishly decorated.




















. Mubarak Mahal
The first floor of this sandstone
palace houses a dazzling collection
of royal costumes and textiles, such as this
gossamer-fine gold-embroidered skirt.




KEY
1 Crafts demonstration area . Rajendra Pol
Flanking this
2 Riddhi-Siddhi Pol gateway are two
3 Shops large elephants, each
carved from single
4 Transport gallery
blocks of marble.
5 Ticket counter
For hotels and restaurants in this region see p699 and pp712–13


360-361_EW_India.indd 360 26/04/17 11:46 am
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JAIPUR  361

Chandra Mahal
Each floor of this VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
seven-storeyed
palace is extrava- Practical Information
gantly decorated City Palace Complex.
and has a specific Tel (0141) 260 8055. .
name according Open daily. Closed public hols.
& Museum and Jaigarh Palace
to its function. The
palace is closed only. Photography allowed for
to the public. façades only, extra charges for video
photography. 8 = Crafts
demonstration area: Open daily.
Closed public hols.


. Silver Urns
The two giant silver urns in the
Diwan-i-Khas, listed in the Guinness
Book of Records as the world’s
largest silver objects, carried sacred
Ganges water for Madho Singh II’s
visit to London in 1901.





















Diwan-i-Aam
The former ceremonial hall now
displays rare Mughal and Rajput
miniature paintings, as well as carpets,
manuscripts, a superbly crafted silver
throne and an ivory elephant howdah.
Entrance
The City Palace
1 Mubarak Mahal
8 9
10 2 Crafts Demonstration Area
7 6
5 3 Sileh Khana
11
3 4 Rajendra Pol
4
5 Diwan-i-Khas
2 1 6 Riddhi-Siddhi Pol 0 metres 200
7 Pritam Niwas Chowk 0 yards 200
8 Chandra Mahal
9 Shops Key
10 Transport Gallery Area illustrated
11 Diwan-i-Aam



360-361_EW_India.indd 361 05/05/17 3:11 pm

362  WESTERN INDIA

Jaipur: Jantar Mantar

Of the five observatories built by Sawai Jai Singh II, the
one in Jaipur is the largest and best preserved; the others
are in Delhi (see p82), Ujjain, Mathura and Varanasi. A keen
astronomer himself, Jai Singh kept abreast of the latest
astronomical studies in the world, and was most inspired
by the work of Mirza Ulugh Beg, the astronomer-king of
Samarkand. Built between 1728 and 1734, the observatory
has been described as “the most realistic and logical
landscape in stone”, its 19 instruments resembling a giant
sculptural composition. Some of the instruments are still Narivalaya Yantra
used to forecast how hot the summer months will be, the Inclined at 27 degrees, these
sundials represent the two
expected date of arrival, duration and intensity of the hemispheres and calculate time
monsoon, and the possibility of floods and famine. by following the solar cycle.



Unnatansha Yantra
was used to determine the
positions of stars and planets
at any time of day or night.




Laghu Samrat Yantra
This “small sundial” is constructed on Latitude 27°
North (Jaipur’s latitude) and calculates Jaipur’s
local time up to an accuracy of 20 seconds.


City Palace
Museum



Entrance















Chakra Yantra
A brass tube passes through
the centre of these two . Ram Yantra
circular metal instruments. Vertical columns support an equal number of horizontal
They can be used to calculate slabs in the two identical stone structures that comprise
the angles of stars and planets this instrument. Its readings determine the celestial arc
from the equator. from horizon to zenith, as well as the altitude of the sun.
For hotels and restaurants in this region see p699 and pp712–13


362-363_EW_India.indd 362 26/04/17 11:46 am
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JAIPUR  363


VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
Practical Information
Chandni Chowk, outside
City Palace.
Tel (0141) 261 0494.
Open daily. Closed public hols.
& free on Mon. Extra charges
Jantar Mantar
The complex of stone and metal instruments was for photography. 8 m
repaired with the addition of marble inlay
comissioned by Madho Singh II in 1901.







. Samrat Yantra
Jai Singh believed that gigantic
instruments would give more
accurate results. This 27-m (89-ft)
high sundial forecasts the crop
prospects for the year.









Hawa Mahal















Rashivalaya Yantra
This is composed of 12 pieces, each of which
represents a sign of the zodiac and therefore
faces a different constellation. This yantra
(instrument), used by astrologers to draw up
horoscopes, is the only one of its kind.


. Jai Prakash Yantra
These two sunken hemispheres map out
the heavens. Some historians believe that
Jai Singh invented this instrument himself,
to verify the accuracy of all the other
instruments in the observatory.




362-363_EW_India.indd 363 26/04/17 11:46 am

364  WESTERN INDIA

Jaipur: South of the Walled City Palace, occupies a special place
in the history of Jaipur. Built
By the end of the 19th century, Jaipur had expanded far in 1739 for Sawai Jai Singh II’s
beyond the boundaries of the walled city established by favourite queen, Chandra Kumari
Sawai Jai Singh II. Many new pleasure palaces, hunting Ranawatji, it was used as a
lodges and mansions were built on its outskirts, making summer resort by the ladies
of the court. In 1821, it was
the city a harmonious blend of old and new.
declared the official home of
the British Resident in Jaipur.
However, the most memorable
phase of its his tory dates to
the time when Man Singh II
and Gayatri Devi moved here
from Rambagh Palace in 1956.
Among the celebrities they
entertained were Prince Philip,
polo player like Man Singh II,
and Jackie Kennedy.
E Jawahar Kala Kendra
Jawaharlal Nehru Marg.
Tel (091) 98281 44299. Open daily.
Lakshmi Narayan Temple, a white marble addition to the Pink City - m
Designed by the Indian architect
P Moti Doongri Palace Hammonds of London to redo Charles Correa and inaugurated
Jawaharlal Nehru Marg. the interiors. New additions in 1993, this remarkable
Closed to the public. included an exotic red-and-gold building pays vivid tribute to
Moti Doongri palace, perched Chinese room, contemporary
on a low hillock, owes its florid black marble Indian design.
exterior to Sawai Man Singh II bathrooms, Lalique An arts centre,
(r.1922–49), who converted the crystal chandeliers it is imaginatively
old fort of Shankargarh into a and an illuminated patterned after
palace, and added turrets in the dining table. the famous grid
style of a Scottish castle. In 1940 Surrounded system of the city,
he married the beautiful Princess by fairy-tale and each of its
Gayatri Devi of Cooch Behar, and gardens, it became Jawahar Kala Kendra nine squares or
this palace with its modernized a hotel in 1957, courts houses a
interior became the venue for when Man Singh II moved to small mahal, or palace, named
glittering parties hosted by the the smaller Raj Mahal Palace. after a planet. Each also displays
glamorous couple. selected exhibits of textiles,
At the foot of Moti Doongri P Raj Mahal Palace handicrafts and weaponry,
is the white marble Lakshmi Sardar Patel Marg. Tel (0141) 510 5675. while in the centre there is a
Narayan Temple, a popular 0 open to non-residents. wonderfully conceived open-air
place of worship, admired Now a grand heritage hotel, this plaza, where performan ces of
for its elaborate carvings. pleasant 18th-century palace, traditional Rajasthani music
less opulent than the Rambagh and dance are held.
P Rambagh Palace
Bhawani Singh Rd. Tel (0141) 221
1919. 0 open to non-residents.
The Rambagh Palace, now a
splendid hotel, has a colourful
past. Built in 1835, it was originally
a small garden pavilion for Ram
Singh II’s wet nurse, but was used
as a hunting lodge after she died
in 1856. Later, on his return from
England, Ram Singh II’s son Madho
Singh II transformed it into a royal
playground with squash and
tennis courts, a polo field and an
indoor swimming pool. In 1933,
it became the official residence
of Madho Singh’s adopted heir,
Man Singh II, who hired Luxurious interior of Rambagh Palace, now a hotel
For hotels and restaurants in this region see p699 and pp712–13


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JAIPUR  365


Jaipur Jewellery

Be it the fabulous rubies and emeralds sported by former maharajas and their queens
or the splendid silver and bone ornaments worn by peasants, jewellery is an integral
part of Rajasthani culture. Even camels, horses and elephants have specially designed
anklets and necklaces. Jaipur is one of the largest ornament-making centres in India, and
meenakari (enamel work) and kundankari (inlay work with gems) are the two traditional
techniques for which it is most famous. In the 16th century, Man Singh I (see p368),
influenced by the prevailing fashions of the Mughal court, brought five Sikh enamel
workers from Lahore to his state. Since then, generations of highly skilled jewellers
have lived and worked here. Jaipur caters to every taste, from chunky silver ornaments
to more sophisticated designs intricately set in gold with precious stones.


A jewelled trinket box Sarpech, the cypress-shaped
with a kundankari lid; the turban ornament, was a
lower portion of this fashion statement introduced
box is worked in fine by the Mughal emperors
meenakari and has in the early 17th century
traditional floral to display their finest gems.
patterns in red, blue, Rajput rulers, impressed
green and white. by Mughal flamboyance,
sported similar dazzling
ornaments such as this
piece of enamelled
gold set with emeralds,
rubies, diamonds and
sapphires, finished
with a pearl drop.








The skill of stone-setting can be seen
in the crowded alleys of Haldiyon ka
Rasta, Jadiyon ka Rasta and Gopalji ka
Rasta. An inherited art, the jewellery
trade is in the hands of artisans’ guilds.




Meenakari is used here to embellish the obverse
side of kundan jewellery. The Rajasthani love of
adornment decrees that even the back of a piece of
jewellery (left) must be as beautiful as the front (right).


Jaipur is now a centre of
lapidary, specializing in
Kundankari uses highly refined gold as a cutting emeralds and
base, which is then inlaid with lac and set diamonds from Africa,
with precious and semi-precious stones South America and
to provide colour and design. Purified various regions of India.
gold wire outlines the design and also Gem-cutters learn their
conceals the lac background. skill by cutting garnets.





364-365_EW_India.indd 365 26/04/17 11:46 am

366  WESTERN INDIA

Exploring Jaipur: Outer Sites Sanganer
Jaipur district, 15 km (9 miles)
A parallel range of hills runs along Jaipur’s eastern periphery, S of Jaipur.
from Sanganer in the south up to Amber and beyond, enclosing This colourful town is famous
a narrow valley. Consisting of thickly wooded slopes and rocky for its blockprinted cotton.
terrain, this was the area where the nobility built temples, Today most of its printers and
dyers belong to a guild, with
gardens, pavilions and palaces. Perched high above the city retail outlets selling reasonably
are the dramatic fortresses of Nahargarh and Jaigarh that priced fabrics. Sanganer owes
guarded the approach to both Amber and the new capital its success as a printing centre
of Jaipur. The surrounding region also has the remains of to a rivulet whose waters have
fortified walls, temples, havelis and the marble cenotaphs a mineral content that fixes
of the Kachhawaha kings of Amber and Jaipur. dyes. Sanganer is also a centre
of handmade paper, and of
Jaipur's renowned, hand-painted
Sikar Delhi Blue Pottery, of which vases and
Ramgarh
Lake tiles with delicate Persian, Turkish
and Indian designs are made.
NH8 NH11C Ramgarh Tucked away in the old walled
town is the impressive 11th-
century Jain Sanghiji Temple,
NH11
Amber lavishly decorated with carvings.
Jaigarh • 55
Sanganer is now a busy suburb
Gaitor Jal Mahal of Jaipur city and houses the
Nahargarh city's airport.
Galta
NH11C Sisodia Rani ka Bagh
NH12
Ajmer NH11 Agra
Basi •
Sanganer
Sights at a Glance 0 kilometres 25
1 Sanganer 0 miles 25
2 Galta
3 Sisodia Rani ka Bagh
4 Ramgarh Key
5 Nahargarh Jaipur city centre A sacred tank in Galta
6 Gaitor National highway P Galta
7 Jal Mahal Major road Jaipur district. 10 km (6 miles)
8 Jaigarh
Minor road E of Jaipur.
This picturesque gorge cradles
Galta Kund, an 18th-century
religious site with two main
temples and a number of smaller
shrines. Its seven sacred tanks,
fed by natural spring water, are
said to have curative powers.
Two pavilions on either side of
the complex have well-preserved
frescoes. The Surya Temple, high
on the ridge, provides spectacular
views of Jaipur.

Y Sisodia Rani ka Bagh
Jaipur district. Purana Ghat. 6 km
(4 miles) E of Jaipur. Tel (0141) 264
0594. Open daily. &
This terraced garden was laid
Marble statue of a Jain tirthankara at Sanganer's Sanghiji Temple out in the 18th century for
For hotels and restaurants in this region see p699 and pp712–13


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JAIPUR  367


topped by a white marble dome.
The most recent cenotaph was
erected in 1997 in memory of
Jagat Singh, the only son of Sawai
Man Singh II and Gayatri Devi.
P Jal Mahal
Jaipur district. 8 km (5 miles)
NE of Jaipur. Open daily.
During the monsoon, water fills
the Man Sagar lake, and the Jal
Mahal (“Water Palace”) seems to
The picturesque Jal Mahal, seemingly afloat during the monsoon rise from it like a mirage. Built in
the mid-18th century by Madho
Sawai Jai Singh II's second wife, lavish palace called Madhavendra Singh I, it is inspired by the Jag
who married him on the condition Bhavan for his nine queens. Laid Niwas Palace (see p402) at
that her son would succeed out in a maze of terraces and Udaipur, where the king spent
to the throne. To escape the courtyards, it has a cool, airy upper his childhood. It was later used
inevitable palace intrigues, the chamber from which the ladies for royal duck-shooting parties,
queen moved to a more private of the court could view the city. Its and a variety of water birds are
home outside the walled city. walls and pillars are an outstand- still seen here. The terraced
Her little double-storeyed palace, ing example of arayish, a form garden, enclosed by arched
decorated with lively murals, is of plaster work that is hand- passages, has elegant semi-
surrounded by beautiful gardens. polished with a piece of agate octagonal towers capped by
It is today a popular location to produce a marble finish. cupolas in each corner.
for Indian films.
P Gaitor P Jaigarh
P Ramgarh Jaipur district. 8 km (5 miles) N of Jaipur. Jaipur district. 12 km (7 miles) N of
Jaipur district. 40 km (25 miles) Open daily. Closed public hols. Jaipur. Tel (091) 90247 35559. Open
NE of Jaipur. The marble cenotaphs 9am–4:30pm. Closed public hols. &
Ramgarh is the site of one of the of the Kachhawaha kings are Legendary Jaigarh, the “Victory
earliest Kachhawaha fortresses. enclosed in Fort”, watches over the old
The fort was built by the dynasty's a walled capital of Amber. One
founder, Duleh Rai (r.1093–1135), garden just of the few surviving
who also built a temple dedica- off the Amber cannon foundries is
ted to the goddess Jamvai Mata, road. This area located here. Its
now visited by thousands of was chosen by most prized
devotees. Ramgarh Lodge, on the Sawai Jai Singh II posse ssion is
northern bank of a man-made as the new the monu mental
lake, is a French villa-style hunting cremation site The famous 50-tonne Jai Van,
lodge built in 1931 for the Jaipur after Amber (see pp368– Jai Van cast in 1726 and said
royal family. It is now a pleasant 70) was abandoned. to be the world's largest
heritage hotel. The lake, which Ornate carved pillars support cannon on wheels. Ironically,
was used for water-based sports the marble chhatris erected despite its impressive size, the
during the 1982 Asian Games, is over the platforms where the cannon has never been fired.
now dry, and the polo ground maharajas were cremated. One Other interesting sights are
is no longer operational, but the of the most impressive cenotaphs the Diva Burj, a seven-storeyed
hotel remains popular as a spa in the complex is that of Jai tower where a huge oil lamp
resort near Jaipur. Singh II himself. It has 20 marble was lit on the king's birthday,
pillars carved with religious and two temples and a palace
P Nahargarh mythological scenes and is built over 200 years ago.
Jaipur district. 9 km (6 miles) E of Jaipur.
Tel (0141) 513 4038. Open daily.
Closed public hols. & - m
The forbidding hill-top fort of
Nahargarh (“Tiger Fort”) stands in
what was once a densely forested
area. The fierce Meena tribe ruled
this region until they were
defeated by the Kachhawahas. Its
fortifications, strengthened by
Sawai Jai Singh II, were subse-
quently expanded by successive
rulers. Madho Singh II added a The ramparts of Jaigarh Fort, a feat of military engineering




366-367_EW_India.indd 367 26/04/17 11:46 am

368  WESTERN INDIA

2 Amber Fort

The fort palace of Amber was the Kachhawaha
citadel until 1727, when their capital moved to Jaipur.
Successive rulers continued to come here on important
occasions to seek the blessings of the family deity, Shila
Devi. The citadel was established in 1592 by Man Singh I
on the remains of an old 11th-century fort, but the various
buildings added by Jai Singh I (r.1621–67) are what
constitute its magnificent centrepiece.

Detail of decorative work at the
Amber Fort





. Sheesh Mahal
The flame of a single candle,
reflected in the tiny mirrors
embedded in this chamber,
transforms it into a starlit sky.






1











Jas Mandir
This Hall of Private Audience has
latticed windows, a floral ceiling
of elegant alabaster relief work
and glass inlay. A marble screen
here overlooks the Maota Lake
and allows in cool air.

Amber Fort
Protected by
Jaigarh Fort, the KEY
massive ramparts
of Amber Fort 1 Jai Mandir
follow the
contours of a 2 Aram Bagh, the pleasure garden.
natural ridge. 3 Sukh Niwas
4 Diwan-i-Aam
5 Sattais Katcheri


For hotels and restaurants in this region see p699 and pp712–13


368-369_EW_India.indd 368 26/04/17 11:54 am

R A JASTHAN  369


VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
Practical Information
Jaipur district. 11 km (7 miles)
N of Jaipur.
Tel (0141) 253 0293. Open 8am–
5:30pm daily. Closed public hols.
& 8 9 = -

. Ganesh Pol
This shimmering three-storeyed gateway,
built in 1640, is connected to the private
apartments by the screened
uppermost level, meant for
ladies in purdah.






. Shila Devi Temple
This ornately carved silver
door is the entrance to the
Shila Devi Temple.




Shila Devi
Temple


















Plan of Amber Fort Key
3 2
Area illustrated
7
Man Singh’s Palace
9 8 5 Jaleb Chowk
4
6 1 0 metres 100
0 yards 100
1 Suraj Pol 5 Ganesh Pol 7 Sukh Niwas
2 Chand Pol 6 Jai Mandir 8 Baradari
3 Shila Devi Temple 6 Jas Mandir 9 Zenana
4 Diwan-i Aam 6 Sheesh Mahal





368-369_EW_India.indd 369 26/04/17 11:54 am

370  WESTERN INDIA

Exploring Amber (the Old Capital) saffron (kesar) flowers, while
Dilaram Bagh, built in 1568 as
Crowning the crest of a hill, Amber Fort offers a panoramic a resting place for Akbar on his
view of Maota Lake and the historic old town at the base of way to Ajmer, is a clever pun
the hill that was the early seat of the Amber kings before on the name of its architect,
they made the fort their capital. Several havelis, stepwells, Dilaram (“Heart’s Ease”). A small
Archaeological Museum is
and temples can be seen below the fort, pointing to the located nearby. The farthest
existence of a self-sufficient township, where the Mughal and oldest end of the fort was
emperor Akbar used to stop on his annual pilgrimage to converted into the zenana
Ajmer (see p380). (women’s quarters), with screens
and covered balconies for the
seclusion of the royal ladies in
purdah. Faint traces of frescoes
are still visible on the walls. In
the centre of the courtyard is
a pavilion with 12 pillars,
the Baradari.
The Township
The Chand Pol (“Moon Gate”),
directly opposite Suraj Pol, leads
to the old town outside the fort.
The beautiful Jagat Shiromani
Temple, with its remarkable
torana (gateway), is one of the
many temples that lies along
Sattais Katcheri, where the revenue records were written this route. It also has a water
tank, Panna Mian ka Kund. To
The Fort Complex Aam, the space for public the east lies Sagar, a popular
The main entrance to the audience. Near it is the picnic spot with two terraced
historic Amber Fort is through Sattais Katcheri, a lakes. The Jaipur–Delhi
the imposing Suraj Pol (“Sun colonnade of 27 (sattais) Highway cuts across
Gate”), so called because it pillars, where scribes the town, and Amber’s
faces the direction of the rising once sat to record main market and bus
sun, the Kachhawaha family revenue petitions. stand are located on
emblem. The gate leads into The magnificent this road. Further north
a huge courtyard, Jaleb Chowk, Ganesh Pol is the stands the Akbari
lined on three sides with souvenir gateway to three Mosque, built by
and refreshment shops. A flight pleasure palaces, each Marble carving of Emperor Akbar in
of steps leads to the Shila Devi with special features, a Hindu deity 1569, while towards
Temple, which has silver doors, built around a Mughal-style the east is Bharmal ki Chhatri,
silver oil lamps, grand pillars garden, Aram Bagh. Maota a walled enclosure containing a
carved to look like banana trees, Lake, which provided water to group of memorials. This was
and contains the Kachhawaha the fort, is surrounded by two the old cremation site for the
family deity, a stone (shila) exquisite gardens. The Kesar rulers of Amber until a new
image of the goddess Kali. The Kyari Bagh has star-shaped spot was chosen at Gaitor
next courtyard is the Diwan-i- flower beds once planted with (see p367), near Jaipur.















Kesar Kyari Bagh, named after the rare saffron flowers once planted in its star-shaped flower beds
For hotels and restaurants in this region see p699 and pp712–13


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R A JASTHAN  371

3 Bharatpur leader, Raja Suraj Mal (r.1755–63), a pharmaceutical college,
fortified the city of Bharatpur while the other two, around
Bharatpur district. 181 km (112 miles)
E of Jaipur. * 204,500. @ n RTDC in 1733 and used the loot from the Katcheri Bagh, house the
Hotel Saras, (05644) 223 790. Mughal buildings to embellish State Museum. Its artifacts
_ Jaswant Mela (Oct). the forts and palaces of include a rare collection of 1st­
his kingdom. and 2nd­century stone carvings.
Most famous for its bird sanctuary, In the centre of the town An interesting sunken hamam
the kingdom of Bharatpur was is Lohagarh (“Iron Fort”), a (bath) is close by. In 1818,
founded by the fearless Jats, master piece of construction. Bharatpur became the region’s
a community of landowners. Its massive double ramparts first princely state to sign a treaty
Their most remarkable of packed mud and rubble with the East India Company.
surrounded by impressive
moats withstood repeated E State Museum
attacks by the Marathas Tel (05644) 22 8185. Open Fri–Wed.
and the British until it was Closed public hols. & free on Mon.
finally captured by Lord Extra charges for photography.
Lake in 1805. Three palaces
built in the fort display a 4 Keoladeo Ghana
fine mix of Mughal and National Park
Rajput stylistic detail.
The moat and ramparts of Lohagarh One is now the site of See pp372–3.

5 Deeg Deeg’s Raja Suraj Mal and
his son, Jawahar Singh, were
Bharatpur district. 36 km (22 miles)
N of Bharatpur. @ n RTDC Hotel keen builders of lavish pleasure
Saras, Bharatpur, (05644) 22 3700. palaces and the most remarkable
_ Holi (Mar), Jawahar Mela (Aug). of these is the Deeg Water
Water Palace: Open daily. Closed the Palace, a romantic summer
day after Holi (Mar). & retreat for the Jat kings. The
magic of the monsoon inspired
Once the capital of the Jat a lyrical composition of sand­
kings of Bharatpur, Deeg rose stone and marble pavilions
to prominence after the decline replete with gardens and pools.
of the Mughal empire in the A skilful cooling system drew Sawan Pavilion, Deeg Water Palace
18th century. Its square fort and water from a huge reservoir and
fortified town, once filled with used a number of innovative produce rainbows. The colour ed
grand mansions and gardens, special effects to simulate fountains are now used only
now lie unkempt and forlorn. monsoon showers and even during the Jawahar Mela.
Deeg Water Palace Keshav Bhavan had heavy
Nand Bhavan lithic balls placed on its roof,
and these rolled and produced
Sawan Pavilion is shaped like “thunder” when water gushed
an upturned boat. Its ingenious up the hollow pillars and
water system created a semi­ pipes inside the arches.
circle of falling water.










Entrance The roof-top
reservoir had
Gopal Bhavan’s numerous water drawn to it
overhanging kiosks and balconies from four wells.
are reflected in Gopal Sagar, from Pipes leading from
which it seems to rise. The interior its sides supplied
still retains the original furnishings water to the chutes
and objets d’art. and fountains.



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372  WESTERN INDIA

4 Keoladeo Ghana National Park

A UNESCO World Heritage Site regarded as one of the
world’s most important bird sanctuaries, Keoladeo Ghana
derives its name from a Shiva temple (Keoladeo) within a
dense forest (ghana). This once-arid scrubland was first
developed by Bharatpur’s rulers in the mid-18th century
by diverting the waters of a nearby irrigation canal to create Shallow wetlands, one of the Bharatpur
City
world’s finest heronries
a private duck reserve. Extravagant shooting parties for
British viceroys and other royal guests were held here, and
horrifying numbers of birds were shot in a single day. Today,
the park spreads over 29 sq km (11 sq miles) of wetlands, and Jaipur
attracts a wide variety of migrant and water birds, which fly
in each winter from places as distant as Siberia. Keoladeo’s Forest Lodge
dry area has mixed deciduous and scrub vegetation and
is home to many animals, including the famed nilgai.
Jatoli
Agra

Shanti
Kutir



Mrig J
Tal
Sapanmori
Ghasola
Ramnagar
Lala Pyare Kadam
ka Kund Kunj
Keoladeo
Getting Around the Park Temple
Man
Expert boatmen navigate the wetlands and point out bird Sarovar
colonies. Bicycles and cycle-rickshaws are also available for
touring the forest paths. Python
Point
J Hans
Sarovar
Birds, Resident and Migrant
The park attracts over 375 bird species Ghana Canal
belonging to 56 families. Egrets, darters,
cormorants, grey herons and storks
hatch nearly 30,000 chicks every year. Aghapur Koladahar
The park’s most eagerly awaited visitor
is the Siberian crane, now an endangered
species. Other birds include the peregrine Bahnera
falcon, steppe eagle, garganery teal,
snake bird and white ibis. Among the
The male Sarus crane dances to
attract his mate large variety of storks are the open-
bill stork, the painted stork and the Barpur
black-necked stork, considered to Key Chiksana Canal
be the world’s tallest stork. Standing on coral-coloured legs, the
bird is 2 m (7 ft) tall, with a National highway Naswaria
wingspanof 2.5 m (8 ft). Main road Darapur
The Sarus crane, a symbol Minor road
of fidelity in Indian Park boundary
myth ology, woos its
partner for life with an Foot path/cycle trail
elaborate mating dance. Baby cormorants
Marshland
For hotels and restaurants in this region see p699 and pp712–13


372-373_EW_India.indd 372 26/04/17 11:46 am
Eyewitness Travel LAYERS PRINTED:
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(Source v2.7)
Date 24th April 2013
Size 125mm x 217mm

R A JASTHAN  373


VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
Practical Information
Bharatpur district. 185 km
(115 miles) E of Jaipur.
n RTDC Hotel Saras, Bharatpur,
(05644) 223 790. Deputy Chief
Wildlife Warden, (05644) 222 777.
Bharatpur & Extra charges for photography.
City Indian Soft-Shell Turtle 8 Bicycles & cycle-rickshaws
The park’s wetlands provide an ideal habitat for available. s
this endangered species.
Transport
£ Bharatpur, 5 km (3 miles) N of
entry point, then taxi. @ Bharatpur.
Jaipur
Forest Lodge
Nilgai (Blue Bull)
The largest of all Asiatic
antelopes, these avid crop
Jatoli
Agra grazers are protected
against hunting because
of their resemblance to
the holy cow. Their broad
Shanti backs offer comfortable
Kutir
resting places for birds.
0 kilometres 1
Mrig J
Tal 0 miles 1
Sapanmori
White-Throated Kingfisher
Ghasola One of the most commonly
Ramnagar sighted birds in the park, the
Lala Pyare Kadam vividly coloured kingfisher
ka Kund Kunj
is usually found near
Keoladeo ponds, lakes and marsh-
Temple lands, perched on
Man branches of trees,
Sarovar
waiting for its prey.
Python
Point
Hans
Sarovar
Ghana Canal KEY
1 Dry scrubland provides good
grazing for nilgai and other species
Aghapur of deer.
Koladahar
2 Painted Storks can be seen
between July and October. This is
when the trees become nesting sites
Bahnera
for nearly 5,000 pairs of these birds,
named after their colourful beaks
and their plumage which is “painted”
Barpur with black bands.
Chiksana Canal 3 A stone plaque near the temple
Naswaria records figures of past bird shoots.
Darapur
Nesting
With the arrival of the monsoon, thousands of
birds, such as these greater cormorants, set up
nesting colonies. As many as 60 noisy nests on
one tree may be seen during this season.
For keys to symbols see back flap


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374  WESTERN INDIA


of Alwar’s maharajas, include
rare and exquisite copies of the
Persian poet Sa’adi’s Gulistan
(written in 1258) and the Babur
Nama or “Memoirs of Babur”
(1530), superb Mughal and Rajput
miniatures and an awesome
armoury. Particularly intriguing
Gate of the Tomb of Fateh Jang is a macabre coil called nagphas,
used for strangling enemies.
6 Alwar Another unique exhibit is a
silver dining table with dividers,
Alwar district. 150 km (93 miles)
NE of Jaipur. * 260,300. £ @ through which shoals of metal
n RTDC, Nehru Marg, opp fish can be seen swimming. A page from famous Persian poet
railway station, (0144) 234 7348. The cenotaph of Maharaja Sa’adi’s Gulistan
_ Jagannathji Fair (Mar/Apr). Bakhtawar Singh (r.1790–1815)
lies behind the palace, across Mughal emperor Akbar’s heir
The former princely state of a magnificent kund (tank). who was exiled here after he
Alwar is now a dusty, provincial It is locally known as Moosi plotted to kill Abu’l Fazl, the
town, visited by few tourists Maharani ki Chhatri, after his emperor’s official historian.
except those on their way to the mistress, who committed sati Near Alwar’s railway station is
Sariska National Park. Never the- here after he died. An elegant another fine monument, the
less it has some remarkable monument that blends brown Tomb of Fateh Jang, one of
monuments, built by its wealthy sandstone with white marble, Emperor Shah Jahan’s ministers,
rulers in the 18th century, that its ceilings are adorned with built in 1647. This magnificent
are worth seeing. The most gold-leaf paintings. five-storeyed structure is
significant of these is the City On a steep hill above the city dominated by an enormous
Palace, whose architectural is the rugged Bala Qila, a fort dome, and its walls and ceiling
features include a profusion with extensive ramparts, massive feature raised plaster reliefs.
of curved bangaldar roofs and gateways and some spectacular Alwar’s green lung, Company
chhatris (pavilions) as well as views from the top. Originally Bagh, is a lovely garden with
delicate Mughal floral tracery a 10th-century mud fort, it was a greenhouse.
and jalis. The palace, built in added to by the Mughals and
1793, now houses the District Jats, and captured by Pratap P City Palace
Collectorate and Police Head- Singh of Alwar in 1775. Within Near Collectorate. Open daily. &
quarters, and is best viewed the fort is a pretty frescoed E City Palace Museum
from the central courtyard with palace, the Nikumbh Mahal, Open Sat–Thu. Closed public hols.
its lovely marble pavilions. The in the courtyard of which a & ^
lavishly decorated Durbar Hall police wireless station is rather
and the Sheesh Mahal, on the inappropriately sited. Also visible T Moosi Maharani ki Chhatri
first floor, can only be viewed are the ruins of the Salim Mahal, Open Sat–Thu. Closed public hols.
&
with special permission. named after Jahangir (Salim),
A door to the right of the T Bala Qila
courtyard leads to the City Open daily. Written permission not
Palace Museum, spread over required any more. The visitor’s name
three halls on the palace’s upper is entered in a register at the office
storey. Its treasures, which bear of the Superintendent of Police,
witness to the opulent lifestyles City Palace.
T Tomb of Fateh Jang
Near railway station.
Open daily.












The elegant marble pavilion at Moosi Maharani ki Chhatri
For hotels and restaurants in this region see p699 and pp712–13


374-375_EW_India.indd 374 26/04/17 11:46 am
Eyewitness Travel LAYERS PRINTED:
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(Source v2.6)
Date 12th July 2013
Size 125mm x 217mm

R A JASTHAN  375


Festivals of Rajasthan
Nagaur Cattle Fair (Jan/
Feb), Nagaur. Camel races,
puppet shows, folk music
and dance mark this week-
long fair (see p380).
Gangaur (Mar/Apr). This
18-day festival celebrates the
marital bliss of Shiva and Parvati
and is a major event all over
Rajasthan, though celebrated
with special verve in Udaipur.
Women perform the swirling
Sariska Palace, a luxury hotel just outside the Tiger Reserve ghoomar dance, and carry
images of the goddess in
7 Sariska langur monkeys, jackals and colourful proces sions through
National Park hyenas, nilgai or blue bulls, wild the streets, as they pray for the
boars and porcupines. wellbeing of their husbands.
Alwar district. 37 km (23 miles) SW of Among the birds that can
Alwar. @ n Field Director, Project
Tiger Sanctuary, Sariska (0144) 284 be spotted are the crested
1333. Open Sep–Jun. & Extra for serpent eagle, the great Indian
personal vehicles or jeeps. 8 0 horned owl, woodpeckers,
kingfishers and partridges.
Designated a Tiger Reserve The dry deciduous forests
under Project Tiger (see p293) of Sariska come to life during
in 1979, Sariska National Park, the brief spring and early
formerly the private hunting summer, when the flowering
ground of the princely state of dhak (Butea monosperma) and
Alwar, sprawls some 866 sq km laburnum bloom. The date
(334 sq miles), with a core area palm begins to bear fruit,
of 497 sq km (192 sq while berries known
miles). The Aravalli locally as kair (Capparis
Range branches out decidua) appear on
at Sariska, forming low the bushes.
plateaux and valleys The Kankwari Gangaur celebrations, Udaipur
that harbour a wide Silk cotton Fort, dating to the
spectrum of wildlife. in bloom 17th- century, and Elephant Festival (Mar),
The tiger popu lation temple ruins, such as Jaipur. Processions of splendidly
at Sariska is now believed to be those of the Pandupol Temple, caparisoned elephants and an
13 and spotting one is a rarity. lie within the park. The Sariska elephant polo tournament are
It was reported by the media Palace, built at the end of the the highlights of this festival.
that not a single tiger survived 19th century as a hunting Mewar Festival (Mar),
in the reserve. Nevertheless, lodge for Alwar’s rulers, is Udaipur. Mewar’s heritage
forest guides keep track of now a luxury hotel, with a is celebrated with cultural
where a tiger was last seen and collection of vintage shikar shows and fireworks.
can sometimes lead visitors to (hunting) photographs. Teej (Aug/Sep). Girls all
spot this elusive predator. over Rajasthan wear new
There are watering holes in clothes, sing and dance
Sariska, Pandupol, Bandipol, joyously to celebrate this
Slopka, Kalighati and Talvriksha festival venerating Parvati,
and these make good vantage goddess of marital harmony.
points to view wildlife, especially Teej also heralds the arrival
at sunset when hoards of of the monsoon.
animals flock to them to quench Urs (Oct), Ajmer. The
their thirst. The gentle chital or mesmerising music of
spotted deer is commonly qawwali singers is a highlight
sighted at the park’s watering of the six-day-long death
holes, while the chausingha anniversary ceremonies
(four-horned antelope), unique for the Sufi saint, Khwaja
to Sariska, can be spotted Moinuddin Chishti.
around Pandupol. Other Pushkar Fair (Oct/Nov),
species that can be seen here Black-faced Hanuman langurs, a common Pushkar (see pp378–9).
are panthers and black-faced sight at Sariska




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376  WESTERN INDIA

8 Shekhawati
Sikar & Jhunjhunu districts. 115 km
(71 miles) NW from Jaipur to Sikar.
@ _ Gangaur Festival (Mar/Apr),
Dussehra (Sept/Oct).
This region, named after its
15th-century ruler Rao Shekha,
has a number of fascinating
small towns with well-preserved
painted havelis, forts and temples.
Among the most interesting are
Lachhmangarh and Fatehpur
with their grand havelis, and
Dundlod, with its well-restored
fort. Especially worth visiting A view of the impressive Char-Chowk Haveli, Lachhmangarh
is Ramgarh, 20 km (12 miles)
north of Fatehpur. Famous for the 18th-century Keshargarh richly painted havelis. During
its Shani Temple, which has an Fort, which provides an excellent Dussehra, Ramlila performances
ornate interior of mirrorwork view of the sand dunes to the take place every even ing,
and gilt, the town also has the north and west. It also has ten with the actors wearing masks
Ram Gopal Poddar Chhatri, and costumes made by local
covered with more than 400 sadhvis (female ascetics), who
paintings. The main bazaar is started this tradition in the
crowded with “antiques” dealers, 19th century.
who sell carved doors and Churu, 12 km (7 miles)
windows from derelict havelis. northwest of Bissau, is in the
Many of these are extremely desert. Though not actually
skilful new copies of the originals. part of the Shekhawati region,it
Mahansar, 15 km (9 miles) is included in the painted haveli
northeast of Ramgarh, has the circuit, as many merchants had
splendid Sone ki Dukan Haveli, homes here too. The Surana
abundantly worked in gold leaf. Double Haveli, with its imposing
The paintings on its vaulted proportions and 1,111 windows,
ceiling, depicting the incarnations is the main attraction. The Banthia
of Vishnu, are perhaps the finest Haveli, east of the vegetable
in the area. market, has interesting if bizarre
Bissau, 10 km (6 miles) Impressive interiors of the Dundlod frescoes, including one of Jesus
northwest of Mahansar, has Fort, Shekhawati smoking a cigar.

The Painted Havelis of Shekhawati
The ancestral homes of some of India’s leading industrialist families,
such as the Birlas and Goenkas, can be seen in the many little towns
of Shekhawati. These sprawling old havelis with their exuberantly
frescoed walls were built between the late 18th and early 20th
centuries by local Marwari merchants who had migrated to the
port-cities of Bombay (Mumbai)
and Calcutta (Kolkata) to seek their
fortunes. Their interaction with the Fresco of a group of turbaned
British and exposure to modern urban Rajput chieftains
and industrial trends influenced their
lifestyles. Consequently, their homes
grew increasingly grand, reflecting the new ideas they brought
back with them, as well as their new-found wealth and social status.
The style and content of the Shekhawati frescoes are a telling comment
on the urbanization of a traditional genre. The local artists still followed
the one-dimensional realism of traditional Rajput painting (see p409),
but juxtaposed among the gods, goddesses and martial heroes are
images from a changing world. In their celebration of contemporary
“pop” themes, the frescoes of British ladies, top-hatted gentlemen, brass
bands and soldiers, trains, motor cars, aeroplanes, gramophones and
telephones symbolize the industrial society emerging in the late
The entrance to Biyani Haveli, Sikar 19th century.

For hotels and restaurants in this region see p699 and pp712–13


376-377_EW_India.indd 376 26/04/17 11:54 am

R A JASTHAN  377


9 A Tour of Shekhawati

Situated along the old camel caravan trade
route, northwest of Jaipur, the Shekhawati
(“Garden of Shekha”) region resembles an
open-air museum. A network of excellent
roads through semi-arid scrubland connects
numerous towns and villages, known for
minor forts, baolis and the painted havelis
of India’s leading merchant families, still A wall in the Poddar School, Nawalgarh, depicting gods and
standing in all their evocative splendour. goddesses flying kites

4 Mandawa
This fort-palace is now a charming 5 Dundlod
hotel and a convenient base from Its fort-palace
which to visit neighbouring towns. and two splendid
Goenka havelis
are worth a visit.



3 Fatehpur
This picturesque mid-
15th century town is Jhunjhunu
best known for the
Singhania, Goenka Mukundgarh
and Jalan havelis. Bikaner

Key
Tour route
Road
River



2 Lachhmangarh 6 Nawalgarh
An old fort towers above this The Poddar and the Aath
19th-century town. The Char (“eight”) havelis are renowned
Chowk (“Four Courtyards”) for their frescoes.
Haveli, owned by the Ganeriwala
family, is said to be the grandest
in the region.
Nagpur
Tips for Drivers
Jaipur
Length: 111 km (69 miles).
Stopping-off points: Mandawa,
Dundlod, Mukundgarh, Fatehpur
and Nawalgarh have good hotels.
Getting around: Petrol pumps
are at regular intervals on the 0 kilometres 20
main road. A number of lesser 0 miles 10
roads lead off from NH11 towards
Jhunjhunu. All of them have
roadside eateries, which sell 1 Sikar
mineral water, hot and cold Sikar’s charm lies in its
drinks, and snacks. colourfully painted havelis,
bazaars and rural ambience.




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378  WESTERN INDIA

0 Street-by-Street: Pushkar

A peaceful pilgrim town of lakes and 400 temples,
Pushkar derives its name from pushpa (flower) and
kar (hand) after a legend that claims its lakes were
created from the petals that fell from the divine hands
of Brahma the Creator. Today, life revolves around its
lakeside ghats, temples and vibrant, colourful bazaars,
and it is this harmonious mix of the spiritual and
commercial that draws people to Pushkar.
Villagers at the Fair
Hundreds of thousands of
people, camels and cattle attend
Dhanna Bhagat
Residential area the annual fair, said to be one
Temple
of the largest in Asia.









S A D A R B A Z A A R
Fairground





Savitri Temple S A D A R B A Z A A R







. Brahma Temple
This is one of the few temples in India
dedicated to Brahma. According to myth,
he was cursed by his wife Savitri, when in
her absence, he invited Gayatri, a tribal girl, Badi Ganeshji P A R I K R A M A M A R G
to take Savitri’s place in an important ritual. Temple
Parasurama Temple
VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
Practical Information Key
Ajmer district. 144 km (89 miles)
SW of Jaipur. Suggested route
Tel (0145) 277 2040
* 14,800.
n RTDC Hotel Sarovar. ( daily. Pushkar Lake
_ Pushkar Fair (Nov). No eggs, On top of a hill, by
meat or alcohol are available or the sacred lake of
allowed in Pushkar. Pushkar, is the
temple of Savitri.
Transport Across the lake, on
@ another hill, is the
Gayatri Temple.
For hotels and restaurants in this region see p699 and pp712–13


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R A JASTHAN  379


The Pushkar Fair
In the Hindu month of Kartik
(October/November), ten
days after Diwali, this peaceful
town and its environs come
alive, as the much-anticipated
annual cattle fair begins.
Tents and campsites suddenly
spring up to accommodate
the thousands of pilgrims,
tourists and villagers with herds
of cattle, horses and camels
who come here to participate
Rangji Temple in this spectacular event.
This temple is conspicuous for its Pushkar has always been the
South Indian style of architecture region’s central cattle market
(see p24). Its gopura (gateway), Women at Sadar Bazaar for local herdsmen and farmers
carved with over 360 images of who buy and sell camels and
deities, towers over the area. indigenous breeds of cattle. Over
the years, this trade in livestock
0 metres 100 has greatly increased in volume.
The Pushkar Fair is now one of
0 yards 100
Digambar Jain Asia’s largest cattle fairs, and it
Dharamshala Mosque transforms the quiet little village
into a bustling market.
In the vast, specially built
amphitheatre on the outskirts
of the town, numerous camel,
Rangji Temple horse and donkey races and
Fairground contests take place amid lusty
Fairground
cheers from the spectators.
A festive, carnival atmosphere
prevails in Pushkar during
the fair’s two-week duration.
Giant Ferris wheels and open-
S A D A R B A Z A A R air theatres offer amusement,
while food stalls do a brisk
trade, as do the shops that sell
Ajmer bus station
a fascinating variety of goods.
In the evenings, people huddle
round campfires, listening to the
haunting strains of Rajasthani
folk ballads. The fair reaches
a crescendo on the night of
P U S H K A R L A K E the full moon (purnima), when
pilgrims take a dip in the holy
lake. At dusk, during the beautiful
deepdan ceremony, hundreds
Chhatri
of clay lamps on leaf boats
are lit and set afloat in a
magical tableau.






. Ghats
Pushkar has 52 ghats. Devout Hindus make at least
one pilgrimage to Pushkar and bathe at the holy
ghats to wash away their sins, thereby earning
themselves a place in heaven. Camels at the Pushkar Fair




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380  WESTERN INDIA

q Ajmer sculptures dating from the 4th
to the 12th centuries.
Ajmer district. 135 km (84 miles)
SW of Jaipur. * 485,200. £ @ Around Anasagar Lake, to
n Rajasthan Tourism, near Khadim the northwest of the city, are
Hotel, (0145) 262 7426. _ Urs (Oct). elegant marble pavilions built
by Emperor Shah Jahan in the
Ajmer is famous throughout the 17th century. They are set on the
subcontinent for the holy Muslim lake’s banks, in a pretty garden
shrine, Dargah Sharif, the tomb called Daulat Bagh. North of
of the great Sufi saint, Khwaja the city, on the summit of Beetli
Moinuddin Chishti (1143–1235). Hill, is the ruined 12th-century
Located in the southwest corner Taragarh Fort, which affords
of the city, the saint’s marble- spectacular views of Ajmer
domed tomb is at the heart of and the surrounding
the Dargah complex, which is
virtually a township in itself.  Nasiyan Temple
It includes a bazaar and two Pilgrims at Ajmer’s Dargah Sharif, India’s SM Soni Marg. Open daily. &
marble mosques, built by the holiest Muslim shrine E Ajmer Government Museum
Mughal emperors Akbar and Near bus stand. Open daily. &
Shah Jahan in the 16th and 17th arch is different, and the numerous
centuries. Akbar was Chishti’s columns have elaborate carvings.
most famous devotee, and once In the southeast corner of w Nagaur
walked barefoot all the way Ajmer is Mayo College, one of Nagaur district. 137 km (85 miles)
from Agra to Ajmer, a distance India’s best public schools. An NE of Jodhpur. * 83,400. @
of 363 km (226 miles), as excellent example of Indo- _ Cattle Fair (Jan/Feb).
thanksgiving after the birth Saracenic architecture, it was set
of his son Salim, the future up in 1875 by the viceroy, Lord This little desert town, midway
Emperor Jahangir. Mayo, as an “Eton of the East” for between Jodhpur and Bikaner, is
Millions of pilgrims come to Rajput princes. Its early students dominated by Ahichhatragarh
Ajmer for the saint’s annual Urs came accompanied by family Fort, dating to the 12th century.
(death anniversary) in the retainers and private tutors, and In the mid-18th century, the ruler
seventh month of the some, like the prince of Jodhpur received the fort
Islamic lunar calendar, of Alwar, even brought as a gift from the Mughals and
when spirited Sufi along their own embellished it with a charming
musicians sing the elephants. Behind the pleasure palace. Several of its
saint’s praises in front 19th-century Nasiyan chambers have exquisite
of his tomb. A special Temple, in the heart frescoes, now being carefully
rice pudding, cooked of the old city, is the restored. The palace also has
in giant iron cauldrons, Svarna Nagari Hall, lovely water channels deco rated
is offered to devotees. vividly decorated with with fish-scale patterns and
West of the Dargah Calligraphy, coloured-glass mosaics ornamental spouts, as well as
Sharif is Ajmer’s Adhai-Din-ka-Jhonpra and gilded wooden an ingenious system of airducts
architectural gem, the figures, recreating that used to supply the inner
Adhai-Din-ka-Jhonpra, or “Hut scenes from Jain mythology. rooms with cool air.
of Two-and-a-Half Days”. This The Ajmer Government The Nagaur Cattle Fair rivals
strange name is said to derive Museum, also in the old city, the Pushkar Fair (see p379),
from the duration of a religious is located in the legendary and is a dazzling kaleidoscope
fair that used to be held here. Emperor Akbar’s fortified palace. of animals, crafts and people,
Though in ruins, the early 13th- Its exhibits include impressive including Nagaur’s famous
century mosque complex, built puppeteers, whose dramatic
into a hillside, is most impressive. shows bring alive popular
Its main glory is its exquisite Rajasthani legends and folklore.
seven-arched screen in front
of the colonnaded hall. Each









Exuberantly decorated seven-arched screen at the Adhai-Din-ka-Jhonpra, Ajmer
For hotels and restaurants in this region see p699 and pp712–13


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R A JASTHAN  381


Ships of the Thar Desert

The desert dwellers of Rajasthan could not survive without their camels. In the sandy,
inhospitable expanse of the Thar Desert, this animal is their only means of transport,
their beast of burden, as well as an important source of nourishment (camel’s milk,
slightly salty in taste, is drunk throughout Rajasthan’s deserts). The hardy camel
demands little in return. It can do without food and water for up to a month in winter,
and a week in summer, tanking up on 70 litres (123 pints) of water at one go. The
Rajasthani’s affection for his camel is evident at all the desert fairs, where camels
are given pride of place, resplendent in their colourful tassels and jewellery.
Varieties of Camel
Three varieties of camel inhabit Rajasthan. All of them have
two rows of eyelashes, which help keep the sand out of their
eyes. Their humps contain a thick layer of fat, which shields
their bodies from the scorching desert sun.









Gujarati camels are
darker-haired and
Bikaneri camels have hairy Jaisalmeri camels, with longer adept at traversing
ears, and great load-bearing legs, can cover up to 22 km marshy areas such as
capacity and stamina. (14 miles) an hour. the Rann of Kutch.
Local handicrafts
include beautiful
embossed water
bottles, bags,
slippers and
lacquer-painted
lampshades with
camel motifs.

Dhola and Maru,
star-crossed lovers
in Rajasthani
folklore who
eloped on their
trusty camel, are
a favourite theme
in paintings.










Camel cavalry regiments of the Indian Army have their origin in the camel regiments of the
Maharaja of Bikaner, which fought in Egypt in World War I. Today they patrol the desert borders.





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382  WESTERN INDIA


e Bikaner
Bikaner district. 361 km (224 miles)
NW of Jaipur. * 529,000. £ @
n Dhola Maru Hotel, Pooran Singh
Circle, (0151) 252 9621. _ Camel
Festival (Jan), Jambeshwar Festival
(Feb/Mar), Kolayat Fair (Nov).
Along with Jodhpur and
Jaisalmer, Bikaner was one
of the three great Desert
Kingdoms of Rajasthan and,
like them, prospered because
of its strategic location on the
overland caravan trade route The imposing ramparts of the 16th-century Junagarh Fort
to Central Asia and China. It
was founded in 1486 by Rao successive rulers over the 1631 and 1669) is the Hall
Bika, the disgruntled younger centuries, though in a harmonious of Public Audience and is
son of Rao Jodha, the ruler continuity of style. The most ornamented in a similar, if
of Jodhpur (see pp384–9), outstanding is the Anup Mahal, somewhat less lavish, style.
who left home in search of built by Maharaja Anup Singh Two other gorgeous, heavily
new territory to conquer. in 1690 as his Hall of Private decorated palaces are the
Somewhat over- Audience. It was 17th-century Chandra Mahal
shadowed by the then sumptuously (“Moon Palace”) and Phool
splendours of decorated between Mahal (“Flower Palace”). The latter
Jodhpur and 1787 and 1800 by contains Rao Bika’s small, low bed
Jaisalmer, Bikaner Maharaja Surat Singh. with curved silver legs, on which
nevertheless has a In an ingenious he slept with his feet touching
great deal to offer imitation of Mughal the ground. The bed was so
visitors, with its old pietra dura work at a designed to enable Rao Bika to
walled town, where fraction of the cost, jump quickly to his feet and fight
camels saunter past the lime-plaster walls off murderous intruders. The
colourful stalls, its of the Anup Mahal Chandra Mahal, which was
many temples Maharaja’s swing at have been polished the queens’ palace, has carved
and palaces, and Junagarh Fort to a high lustre. marble panels depicting the
the magnificent They are covered Radha-Krishna legend, and
Junagarh Fort, perhaps the with red-and-gold lacquer both palaces have superb stone
best preserved and most patterns, further embellished carving and jalis. The blue-and-
ornately decorated of all with mirrors and gold leaf. The gold Badal Mahal (“Cloud
the forts in Rajasthan. Karan Mahal (built between Palace”) is covered with paintings
of clouds, yellow streaks of
P Junagarh Fort lightning and rain showers –
Open Sat–Thu. & 8 Extra a favourite fantasy in this
charges for photography. arid land. The Hawa Mahal
Museum: Open daily. & (“Palace of Winds”) has a
Constructed between 1587 huge mirror positioned over
and 1593 by the third ruler the maharaja’s bed, which
of Bikaner, Rai Singh, apparently enabled him to
Junagarh Fort is protected view the courtyard below,
by a 986-m (3,235-ft) long thus alerting him to
sandstone wall with 37 approaching danger. The
bastions, a moat and, oldest palace in the fort is Lal
most effectively of all, by Niwas, dating to 1595, and
the forbidding expanse decorated with floral motifs
of the Thar Desert. Not in red and gold. The newest
surprisingly, the fort has palace is the huge Durbar
never been conquered, Niwas (“Coronation Palace”),
a fact that explains its built in the early 20th
excellent state of preservation. century by Bikaner’s most
Within the fort’s austere progressive ruler Sir Ganga
stone walls are no fewer Singh (r.1887–1943), who
than 37 profusely decorated gave Bikaner its railway link
palaces, temples and and built the Ganga Canal,
pavilions, built by its Interior with ornamental lacquer work, Anup Mahal which brought precious
For hotels and restaurants in this region see p699 and pp712–13


382-383_EW_India.indd 382 26/04/17 11:54 am

R A JASTHAN  383


irrigation water to his kingdom. of the most ornate are the number of migratory birds.
He was also famous for hosting Rampuria and Kothari havelis. The 17th-century Karni Mata
elaborate shikars (hunting The former is now a delightful Temple at Deshnok, 30 km
expeditions) for visiting British heritage hotel. In the (19 miles) southeast of Bikaner,
dignitaries. The Durbar southwestern corner of the is also known as the Rat Temple,
Niwas now houses the walled town are two Jain because of the hundreds of rats
fort museum, whose temples, dating from that swarm around the temple
armoury section the early 16th century, and its precincts. The rats are
includes such the Bhandeshwar considered sacred and are fed
fascinating exhibits and Sandeshwar sweets and milk by the priests
as a 56-kg (123-lb) temples. Both are and visitors, who believe that
suit of armour, a ornately carved and they are reincarnated holy men.
dagger with a pistol are embellished with The temple is dedicated to Karni
built into it, and frescoes, mirrorwork Mata, an incarnation of Durga,
swords with lion- Coat of arms of and gold-leaf scroll- and is entered through intricately
shaped handles. Other Bikaner’s rulers work inside. They carved silver doors, presented
exhibits include the were built by two by Sir Ganga.
rulers’ fragrant sandalwood brothers who, having no
throne, said to date back to children, constructed these O Camel Breeding Farm
their 5th-century ancestors, masterpieces for posterity. Open Mon–Sat. ^ &
who were the kings of Kannauj  Karni Mata Temple
(Uttar Pradesh), and a curious P Lalgarh Palace Open daily. _ Karni Mata Festival
half-spoon for soup, used by N of city centre. Tel (0151) 254 0201. (Mar/Apr & Sep/Oct).
the maharaja to ensure that his Museum: Open Thu–Tue. & ^
luxuriant moustache remained Lalgarh Palace, outside the
pristine during mealtimes. walled town, is a sprawling
extravaganza of carved friezes,
P Walled City jalis, pillars and arches in the
West end of MG Rd. Shops: Open daily. distinctive reddish-pink local
In the old walled city, entered sandstone (which resulted in
through Kote Gate, is the bazaar, Bikaner being dubbed the
where excellent local handicrafts “Red City”). Constructed
can be found, such as rugs and between 1902 and 1926,
carpets, painted lampshades it was designed by Sir Samuel
made of camel hide, and beautiful Swinton Jacob (see p357) in a
miniatures in the Bikaneri style, style that combines traditional
can be found. Savoury snacks Rajput and Renaissance
(bhujias) are another local European features with Art
speciality, and Bikaneri bhujias Nouveau decor inside. Part
are renowned throughout India, of it has been converted into
as are the sweets made of a hotel, and another section Devotee feeding milk to rats at Karni Mata
camel’s milk. The grand 17th- and into a museum with vintage Temple, Deshnok
18th-cen tury havelis of Bikaner’s photo graphs and wildlife
wealthy merchants line the trophies. Lalgarh Palace’s
narrow lanes in the vicinity museum and beautiful r Phalodi
around Rampuria Street. Two gardens are open to visitors.
Jodhpur district. 150 km (93 miles)
SW of Bikaner. @
Environs
The Camel Breeding Farm, 9 km This large town attracts visitors
(6 miles) southeast of Bikaner, is because of the lovely hamlet
best visited in the late afternoon, of Khichan, 4 km (2 miles) to
when the camels return from its east. Khichan is famous for
grazing. Set up in 1975, the farm the demoiselle cranes that
breeds nearly half the camels gather around its lake between
found in India, including those September and March. The birds
for the camel regiment of the migrate here from the Mongolian
Indian Army. steppes for the winter. Every day,
Gajner, 30 km (19 miles) the villagers spread grain on
northwest of Bikaner, has the red the fields for the birds, and as
sandstone Summer Palace a result the number of cranes
of the maharajas, now a luxury that come here has increased
hotel, and the Gajner National substantially over the years. At
One of the two cannons flanking the Park, home to black bucks, wild last count, 7,000 cranes spent
entrance to Lalgarh Palace boars, desert foxes and a large the winter at Khichan.




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384  WESTERN INDIA

t Jodhpur

With the majestic Mehrangarh Fort towering over opulent
palaces, colourful bazaars and the sands of the Thar Desert,
Jodhpur epitomizes all the romance and feudal splendour of
Rajasthan. Now the second-largest city in the state, Jodhpur
was founded in 1459 by Rao Jodha, the Rathore ruler of the
kingdom of Marwar. Strategically located on the overland trade
route, it soon became a flourishing trade centre. Its merchant
class, known as the Marwaris (see pp376), have retained their
entrepreneurial skills and continue to run many of India’s leading
business houses. The special riding breeches, known the world
over as jodhpurs, were designed here.

T Mehrangarh Fort lined with henna artists who Blue-washed houses around Jodhpur’s
See pp386–7. decorate women’s palms with Mehrangarh Fort
intricate, lacy patterns.
= Sardar Bazaar An interesting building in carving is the chhatri (cenotaph)
Open daily. this area is the early 17th- of Maharaja Jaswant Singh II
Jodhpur’s bazaar lies in the century Taleti Mahal, its carved (r.1873–95), whose innovative
heart of the old city, which is balconies supported by temple irrigation schemes brought
surrounded by a 10-km (6-mile) pillars. Built for a favourite royal water and prosperity to this
wall, pierced by eight gates. concubine, it now houses a parched land. Local people,
Clustered around a clock tower school. There are several other who believe the maharaja
(built in 1912), the bazaar is a beautiful houses in the bazaar has retained his healing touch,
fascinating area to explore, area, mostly made of red sand- come regularly to offer prayer
with its little shops selling silver stone and heavily carved. and flowers at his shrine.
jewellery, lacquer bangles, tie- Cenotaphs of subsequent
dyed fabrics, soft camel-leather T Jaswant Thada rulers and members of the royal
shoes, puppets, clay figurines Open daily. & families are also located here,
and colourful heaps of sweets This elegant pillared marble though earlier rulers have
and spices. The pavements are memorial with fine lattice their memorials at Mandore.

Jodhpur City Centre
1 Mehrangarh Fort
2 Sardar Bazaar
Jaswant
Thada Nagauri 3 Jaswant Thada
Gate 4 Umaid Bhavan Palace
R O A D MANDORE,
OSIAN &
Balsamand
Padamsar Ranisar OLD CITY
Talab Talab M A N D O R E
Mehrangarh
Fort
R O A D Sardar Clock Tower Mertia JAIPUR
N O V E C H O K I YA Bazaar Gate M E R T I A G A T E Paota
Bus Stand
Umaid
N A I
Gardens Rai ka Bagh
Station
Sojati S A R A K RAI KA
Gate
BAGH
M.G.H OSPITAL ROAD STATION RD
Jalori
Gate G A U S A L A R O A D
Jodhpur ROAD UMAID BHAVAN ROAD
Station Umaid Bhavan
AI R P ORT Palace
Sardar
0 metres 500 Samand Lake RATANDA ROAD
0 yards 500 Airport
5 km (3 miles)
For keys to symbols see back flap
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R A JASTHAN  385


VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
Practical Information
Jodhpur district. 331 km
(206 miles) W of Jaipur.
* 846,500. n High Court Rd,
(0291) 254 5083. ( Mon–Sat.
_ Jodhpur–Rajasthan
International Folk Festival (Oct),
Marwar Festival (Oct).
Umaid Bhavan Palace, a fusion of Rajput, Jain and Art Deco styles Transport
~ 5 km (3 miles) S of city centre.
E Umaid Bhavan Palace garden on a hillside are the £ @
Open daily. & red sandstone chhatris of
This immense palace, built of Jodhpur’s earlier rulers. The
creamy-pink sandstone and most imposing is that of Balsamand, 6 km (4 miles) north
marble, is a prime example of Ajit Singh with its towering of Jodhpur, has the 19th-century
princely India’s opulence. Its temple-like spire. When he red sandstone water palace of
347 rooms include eight dining died in 1724, his six wives the maharajas beside a large
halls, two theatres, a ballroom, and 58 concubines committed artificial lake. The Sardar Samand
several lavishly decorated sati on his funeral pyre. The Lake, 55 km (34 miles) south of
reception halls and a vast Hall of Heroes has 15 life-size Jodhpur, attracts several water
underground swimming pool. statues of religious deities birds including egrets, ibis
A 60-m (197-ft) dome covers and folk heroes. Further up the and pelicans. On its shores
the cavernous central hall, hill are the queens’ cenotaphs is the maharajas’ Art Deco-style
which, at its inauguration, (Raniyon ki Chhatri) and the tall hunting lodge. The drive here
seated 1,000 people for dinner. and narrow 17th-century Ek passes through interesting
The palace was commission ed Thamba Mahal Palace. Bishnoi villages (see p389).
by Maharaja Umaid Singh,
apparently to create jobs for his
famine-stricken subjects. Begun
in 1929, it took 3,000 men
15 years to complete; 19 km
(12 miles) of railway tracks were
also laid to bring the sandstone
from the quarry. HV Lanchester,
the architect of the Central Hall
of Westminster in London,
created a pleasing fusion of
Rajput, Jain and European Art
Deco styles for his royal patron.
Umaid Singh’s grandson,
Gaj Singh, still lives in a section
of the palace, while the rest
has been turned into a luxury Jaswant Thada, the 19th-century cenotaph of Maharaja Jaswant Singh II
hotel. The palace museum
is open to visitors and has Bhopa Balladeers
an impressive collection of
decorated weapons, watches Like the troubadours of medieval Europe, the nomadic Bhopa tribe
and fantastically-shaped clocks, of western Rajasthan enjoys a lively tradition of storytelling through
paintings, French furniture song and dance. A long painted scroll (known as a phad) is, rather
and porcelain. like a comic strip, crammed with paintings depicting dramatic
The road in front of it, events in the life of a Marwar
leading to the smaller Ajit hero, the brave warrior Pabuji.
Bhavan Palace, is lined with The Bhopa unrolls his scroll,
antique shops. and narrates the story through
songs, highlighting relevant
pictures on the scroll with a
Environs lantern, while his wife brings
Mandore, 9 km (6 miles) north the tale to life with animated
of Jodhpur, was the capital of dance sequences. The Bhopas’
the Rathore kings of Marwar performances draw enthusiastic
until the 15th century, when crowds at fairs and festivals
Rao Jodha built a new capital across the Marwar region. Painted scroll used by Bhopas
at Jodhpur. Set around terr aced
For hotels and restaurants in this region see p699 and pp712–13


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386  WESTERN INDIA


Jodhpur: Mehrangarh Fort

Rising sheer out of a 125-m (410-ft) high rock, Mehrangarh
is perhaps the most majestic of Rajasthan’s forts.
Described by an awe-struck Rudyard Kipling as “the
creation of angels, fairies and giants”, Mehrangarh’s
forbidding ramparts are in sharp contrast to the
flamboyantly decorated palaces within. Founded by
Rao Jodha in 1459, the sandstone fort was added
to by later rulers, mostly between the mid-17th and
mid-19th centuries. The royal apartments within the
fort now form part of an outstanding museum.











The Ramparts
The bastioned walls, parts of which are hewn
out of the rock itself, are in places 24-m (79-ft)
thick and 40-m (131-ft) high. Perched on them
are old cannons.









. Phool Mahal
Built between 1730
and 1750, this is the
fort’s most opulent
chamber, and is
richly gilded and
painted. It was used
for royal celebrations.











Shringar Chowk
This courtyard has the coronation
throne of the Jodhpur
rulers, made of white
marble. Every ruler after
Rao Jodha was crowned
on it.
For hotels and restaurants in this region see p699 and pp712–13


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R A JASTHAN  387


VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
Practical Information
Tel (0291) 254 8790. Mehrangarh
Fort and Museum: Open daily. n
Museum Trust. & Extra charges
for photography. 0 = m e






Blue-washed houses of Brahmapuri village, clustered below the ramparts
of Mehrangarh Fort




. Moti Mahal
Built between 1581 and 1595, this
magnificent room was the Hall of Private
Audience. Its ceiling is decorated with
mirrors and gold leaf, and crushed seashells
were mixed with plaster to give its walls
a lustrous sheen.












Takhat Mahal
This exuberantly painted room with a wooden
ceiling was the favourite retreat of Maharaja
Takhat Singh (r.1843–73), who had 30 queens
and numerous concubines.
KEY
1 Carved balconies crown the 8 Chokelao Palace, now under
towering bastions. restoration, was a pleasure palace
built around a sunken garden.
2 Shringar Chowk
9 Jhanki Mahal is a long gallery
3 Palki Khana with exquisite latticed stone screens.
4 Suraj Pol is the entrance 0 Phool Mahal
to the museum.
q Sileh Khana’s exceptional
5 Nagnechiaji Mandir has collection of weapons includes
a 14th-century image of the damascened Mughal daggers,
goddess Kuldevi, the family deity gem-studded shields, and special
of the rulers. armour for war elephants.
6 Chamundi Devi Mandir is w Jai Pol, one of the seven fortified
dedicated to the goddess Durga in gates to the fort, is now the main
entrance. It was built in 1806 by
her wrathful aspect.
Maharaja Man Singh to commemorate
7 Zenana Chowk a victory in battle.




386-387_EW_India.indd 387 26/04/17 11:46 am

388  WESTERN INDIA


Exploring Mehrangarh Fort Museum 16th-century Moti Mahal
or “Pearl Palace”. A palmist sits
The Mehrangarh Fort Museum is justly regarded as the best in the courtyard to foretell
of the many palace museums in Rajasthan. Its rich and varied the futures of visitors.
collection includes a golden throne, fine miniature paintings, The museum also has a fine
traditional costumes and fascinating weapons. Particularly collection of Rajasthani turbans
and folk-music instruments.
magnificent are the skilfully restored royal chambers, which Rooms displaying costumes,
present a vivid picture of princely life and culture in Rajasthan. royal tents and special trea sures
are under preparation.
Environs
Osian, 64 km (40 miles)
northwest of Jodhpur, is the
site of 16 outstanding Jain and
Hindu temples. Built by wealthy
traders between the 8th and
12th centuries, when Osian was
an important stop on the caravan
trade route to Central Asia, they
represent the earliest phase of
temple architecture in Rajasthan.
Famous for the rich variety and
exuberance of their sculptural
Maharaja’s cradle with a mechanical rocking system, in Jhanki Mahal decoration are the 11 temples
at the southern and western
The entrance to the museum The next chamber, on the floor edges of Osian village. Of these,
is through the Suraj Pol on the above, is the splendidly gilded, the most impressive is the
fort’s southeastern side. Inside, 18th-century Phool Mahal 8th-cen tury Mahavira Temple
to the right, is the Palki Khana (“Flower Palace”), the Hall of with a superb ceiling and 20
with a collection of richly gilded Public Audience. It also has carved pillars holding up the
palanquins. Along with the superb miniatures, including main portico. Equally beautiful
impressive elephant howdahs a set of 36 Ragamala paintings are the classically elegant
on display in the Howdah Gallery that depict the moods of 10th-century Sun Temple and
next door, these reflect the various musical ragas. the profusely sculpted Vishnu
importance of grand The 19th-century and Harihara Temples, from
processions in courtly Takhat Mahal, the 8th–9th centuries.
life. Particularly the chamber of a The other temples are on a
impres sive is pleasure-loving hill east of the village, dominated
a 17th-cen tury ruler, is exuberantly by the 12th-century Sachiya
howdah made of painted with murals Mata Temple, approached
solid silver, a gift from of Radha and Krishna through a series of beautifully
the Mughal emperor and dancing maidens. carved arches. This temple is
Shah Jahan. Another A gem-studded The glass Christmas particularly popular with infertile
treasure is a spectacular rhino-hide shield tree balls hanging from women, who believe that
palanquin covered in the ceiling were added Sachiya Mata, an incarnation of
gold leaf, dating to 1730. This in the 1930s. Sardar Vilas, just Durga, has special powers to help
stands in the Daulat Khana below Takhat Mahal, showcases them bear children.
(Treasury Hall), just before the Jodhpur’s fine woodwork.
Sileh Khana with its superb Particularly striking is a door
collection of weapons. inlaid with ivory.
From here, steps lead up The next chamber is Jhanki
to the Umaid Mahal, which Mahal or “Peeping Palace”, so
exhibits miniature paintings called because the women of
of the Jodhpur School. Heavily the royal zenana could peep
influenced by the Mughal through its latticed stone screens
style, these paintings provide to observe the ceremonies and
fascinating vignettes of life at festivities in the courtyards
court – the rulers riding camels below. It now has a collection
with their courtesans, playing of royal cradles, including one
polo and leading ceremonial with an ingenious mechanical
processions. Here, too, is a grand rocking system, surmounted by
silk canopy that was used by guardian angels. From here a The entrance to the Sachiya Mata
the rulers for outdoor camps. courtyard leads to the Temple, Osian
For hotels and restaurants in this region see p699 and pp712–13


388-389_EW_India.indd 388 26/04/17 11:46 am
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R A JASTHAN  389


y Tour of Marwar Crafts Villages

The arid countryside south of Jodhpur is dotted with
villages, their mud and thatch huts inhabited by the Tips for Drivers
Bishnois and communities of potters and weavers. A Length: 55 km (34 miles).
daylong tour of this area provides a memorable opportunity Getting around: Allow 6–7
to observe the rhythm of daily life in these hamlets, hours for the trip. Refreshments
are available at Gudda Bishnoi,
experience the warm hospitality of the villagers, and Salawas and Kakuni. The heritage
see beautiful traditional crafts being practised. hotels at Rohet and Luni (Fort
Chanwa) offer good food and are
Jaisalmer pleasant places for a break. Hotels
and travel agencies in Jodhpur
can arrange taxis. A four-wheel
drive is recommended.
Ajmer 1 Jodhpur
This historic and beautiful city is
on the edge of the Thar Desert.
2 Gudda Bishnoi
3 Salawas The Bishnois in this hamlet tend
The villagers here are skilled weavers of camels and goats. The men wear
dhurries (rugs) in traditional geometric only white, but the women sport
patterns and vegetable colours. These vivid colours and silver jewellery.
rugs are made of cotton or camel hair.
Khejarli






Mogra




4 Kakuni 5 Rohet
This village, 26 km (16 miles) The 17th-century
south of Jodhpur, is famous palace-fort here is now
for its pottery, made of Luni a heritage hotel
the fine local clay. surrounded by villages
of leather craftsmen.


Key
The Bishnois Tour route
Other roads
The Bishnois, passionate environmentalists, are followers
of a 15th-century sage, Jambeshwar, River
whose creed is contained in 29 (bis noi)
principles. Most of these focus on
environmental protection, and the
Bishnois’ faith bids them to protect
every living being, if necessary with Pali, Ranakpur,
their lives. Thus, the otherwise timid Kumbhalgarh
blackbuck can be seen roaming freely
near Bishnoi villages, confident that
it will be unharmed. Bishnois believe 0 kilometres 6
Bishnoi woman they will be reborn as deer.
0 miles 3




388-389_EW_India.indd 389 26/04/17 11:46 am

390  WESTERN INDIA

u Jaisalmer VISITORS’ CHECKLIST

Today a remote outpost in the Thar Desert, Jaisalmer was Practical Information
founded in the 12th century by Maharawal Jaisal of the Bhatti Jaisalmer district. 285 km (177
Rajput clan. It was once a flourishing trade centre, strategically miles) W of Jodhpur. * 58,300.
n Tourist Reception Centre,
located on the busy caravan trade route to Afghanistan and Station Rd, (02992) 25 2406.
Central Asia. Its earlier rulers grew rich by looting gems, silk and _ Desert Festival (Feb), Gangaur
opium from the caravans, but by the 16th century Jaisalmer Festival (Mar/Apr).
had become a peaceful town, whose wealthy traders and rulers Transport
vied with each other to beautify their austere desert surroundings £ @
with splendid palaces and havelis. Made of the local golden-
yellow sandstone, they are the most spectacular examples of
the Rajasthani stonemason’s art. In the 18th century, with the
growth of sea ports at Surat and Bombay (Mumbai), Jaisalmer’s
importance dwindled. But the buildings from its golden age
still stand, clustered around a magnificent fort (see pp392–3).

= Manik Chowk } Gadisagar Lake
Located at the entrance to the SE of the city walls.
fort, this is the main marketplace, This rainwater reservoir, built
where caravans used to halt in 1367, was once the city’s Colourful turban and long mustache at the
in the past. The tiny shops sell sole source of water. Lined with Thar desert festival
camel-hair blankets and ghats and temples, it comes
gorgeous embroidered textiles. alive during the Gangaur festival P Nathmalji’s Haveli
Desert nomads and their camels (March/April), when the Near Gandhi Chowk. Local guides
add to the bazaar’s colour. maharawal leads a procession can arrange visits for a fee.
here. The gateway leading to the Built in 1855 by another
P Badal Vilas tank was built by a royal courte- prime minister of Jaisalmer,
Near Amar Sagar Gate. Open daily. san, Telia, whose audacity so the particular charm of this
This late-19th-century palace is enraged the queens that they five-storeyed mansion is that
distinguished by its multi-tiered demanded its instant demolition. the two sides of its façade
tower in the shape of a tazia – The quick-witted Telia had a were carved by two craftsman-
the ornately decorated tower statue of Krishna installed on top, brothers, Hathu and Lallu.
of wood, metal and coloured thereby ensuring not only that Though at first glance they
paper, carried by Shia Muslims the gateway would stand, but seem identical, the details on
at Muharram (see p673). The Tazia that everyone would bow before each side are quite different.
Tower of Badal Vilas, built in the passing through it. Besides the usual floral,
mid-20th century, was a parting geometric and animal patterns,
gift to the maharawal from the P Salim Singh’s Haveli this haveli’s motifs also reflect
town’s Shia stonecarvers, many Near the Fort entrance. Local guides new influences – a European-
of whom moved to Pakistan can arrange visits for a fee. style horse and carriage,
after Independence. This haveli was built in 1815 bicycles and steam engines.
by a powerful prime
minister of Jaisalmer. P Patwon ki Haveli
Narrow at the base, E of Nathmalji’s Haveli. Open daily.
its six storeys grow This enormous haveli was built
wider at each level, between 1805 and 1855 by
and all its 38 balconies Guman Chand Patwa, one of
have different designs. Jaisalmer’s richest merchants
Peacocks dance and bankers, who dealt in
between the arches silk, brocade and opium, and
on the topmost had a chain of trading stations
balcony, and blue stretching from Afghanistan to
cupolas cap the roof. China. This six-storeyed mansion
The rear portion of this has five adjoining apartments
haveli was, sadly, for each of his sons, and 66
damaged during the balconies. The curved eaves on
Gujarat earthquake in the balconies suggest a fleet of
January 2001, but sailing boats, and the numerous
visitors are still latticed windows are carved
Gadisagar Lake, lined with ghats allowed in. with breathtaking intricacy.
For hotels and restaurants in this region see p699 and pp712–13


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R A JASTHAN  391


The Jaisalmer Haveli

After the fort, Jaisalmer’s havelis are its greatest attraction. Built in the 19th century by
the town’s merchants and ministers, these mansions dominate its labyrinthine lanes.
The havelis of Salim Singh, Nathmalji and Patwon are the finest examples of this type
of architecture, their golden stone façades so finely carved that they could be made
of lace. Several generations of an extended family lived together in these huge mansions,
which usually contained secluded women’s quarters that outsiders could not enter.
Jaisalmer’s stonemasons still practise their art, doing restoration work in the fort, and
working abroad for wealthy new patrons in the Gulf and Saudi Arabia.
The entrance of most
havelis is on a plinth, raised
high above street level, to
prevent the desert sand
from blowing into the
rooms. The ground floor
had no living rooms, and
was usually used as a
warehouse or storeroom.

The inner courtyard, found
in all havelis, was a protected
place for children to play in,
and for women to attend to
their daily chores in privacy.



Jharokhas, or projecting
balconies, have curved
bangaldar eaves. Their purpose
was more decorative than
functional, and they gave
the stonemasons an opportunity
to display the full range of their
creativity and skill.





Jalis, or latticed stone
screens, display a rich
variety of patterns.
They keep out the
harsh desert sun but
let in fresh air. They
also enabled women
to observe street life
without being seen.


Yellow sandstone
lends itself particularly
well to fine carving. Narrow streets in the
Soft when newly neighbourhood of Patwon
quarried, the stone ki Haveli, lined with intricately
gradually becomes carved façades, retain their
harder with exposure. traditional ambience.





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392  WESTERN INDIA


Jaisalmer Fort
Jaisalmer Fort rises like a fabulous mirage out of the sands
of the Thar Desert, the awesome contours of its 99 bastions
softened by the golden hue of the stone. Built in 1156 by
Maharawal Jaisal, and added to by his successors, this citadel
stands on the peak of the 80-m (262-ft) high Trikuta Hill. In
medieval times, Jaisalmer’s entire pop ulation lived within the
fort and even now, thousands of people reside here, making it
India’s only living fort. Royal palaces, a cluster of Jain temples, The southern ramparts, built of stone
mansions and shops are all contained within its walls. without any mortar
KEY . Jain Temples
Exquisitely carved
1 The ramparts, with an Jain temples were built
inner parallel wall, have huge in the 15th and 16th
cannonballs perched on top, centuries by the town’s
ready to crush invaders. wealthy traders.
2 Intricate sandstone carvings
are found in these seven temples
dedicated to the Jain tirthankaras,
including Rishabdeo, Sambhavnatha
Parsvanatha and others.
3 Gyan Bhandar, in the basement
of the Sambhavnatha Temple, is a
library of illustrated Jain palm-leaf
manuscripts, some of them dating
to the 11th century.
4 Annapurna Bhandar was
originally the fort’s granary.
Its ground floor has a temple.
5 Moti Mahal
6 Naqqar Khana, or “Drummers’
Gallery”, has a richly carved
octagonal balcony.
7 Rani Mahal








Jaisalmer in Jeopardy
The growth of tourism together with attempts to green the nearby
desert have, ironically, posed a threat to the fort. Built for an arid
climate that hardly ever experienced rainfall, the fort had no
provision for water supply or drainage. Now, with rising ground
water levels in the area, and the introduction of piped water in
the fort, seepage has made the golden stone crumble in places.
Conservation efforts by Indian and international organizations
are now under way to save this unique fort and town.






The 12th-century Jaisalmer Fort, threatened by rising damp

For hotels and restaurants in this region see p699 and pp712–13


392-393_EW_India.indd 392 26/04/17 11:46 am
Eyewitness Travel LAYERS PRINTED:
Starsight template “UK” LAYER
(Source v2.7)
Date 24th April 2013
Size 125mm x 217mm

R A JASTHAN  393


Royal Complex VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
The seven-storeyed
palace complex Practical Information
consists of several Jaisalmer Fort: n Rajasthan
interconnected Tourism, Station Rd. Tel (02992)
palaces, built between 25 2406. Open daily. & Extra
the 16th and charges for photography. 8 m
19th centuries. 0 = Jain Temples: Open daily.
Extra charges for photography.
Gyan Bhandar: Open daily.












Sarvottam Vilas
Brilliant blue tiles and glass
mosaic work decorate this
mid-18th century palace.


















. Moti Mahal
Floral paintings and carved
doors embellish this
18th-century palace.












. Dussehra Chowk
Festivals, royal performances and parades
took place in this open plaza, framed by
the palace complex. The rulers’ marble
throne overlooks the plaza.




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394  WESTERN INDIA

Exploring Jaisalmer’s Outer Sights protection against the fierce
desert heat and winds, while
The environs of Jaisalmer are dotted with sites of both the paintings that decorate
architectural and natural beauty. These include beautiful their exteriors bring colour
temples, the haunting ruins of the old capital, a fascinating and beauty to the brown,
desert village, rolling sand dunes, and the habitat of a parched environs.
rare desert bird, the great Indian bustard. O Desert National Park
43 km (27 miles) W of Jaisalmer.
For permission, contact Collector’s
Office, Jaisalmer, (02992) 25 2201.
& 8 Jeep & Camel safaris.
This fascinating park is spread
over 3,162 sq km (1,221 sq miles)
of scrub and sandy wasteland,
close to the border with Pakistan.
Its star attraction is the great
Indian bustard (Choriotis
nigriceps), a large bird with a
height of 1.2 m (4 ft). The bustard
had been hunted almost to
extinction, and only about 1,000
Manganiyar musicians, whose ballads recount Jaisalmer’s history remain now, but sightings are
likely here. Other wildlife includes
 Bhattiani Rani Temple concealed beneath the desert sand grouse, several species of
2 km (1 mile) S of fort. Open daily. sands. A beautiful torana leads falcon and vulture, desert fox,
This secluded Hindu shrine was to the main temple, which and chinkara (Indian gazelle).
built in honour of a 19th-century houses a metal sculpture of
Jaisalmer princess who, the Kalpavriksha (“Celestial
surprisingly, committed Tree”). It is believed to have o Barmer
sati on her brother-in- wish-fulfilling powers. Barmer district. 160 km (99 miles)
law’s funeral pyre. A clan SE of Jaisalmer. £ @ n Rajasthan
of Muslim musicians, the } Akal Fossil Park Tourism, Khartal, (02982) 22 2956.
Manganiyars, are the 17 km (11 miles) SE of _ Tilwara Cattle Fair (Jan/Feb),
caretakers of the temple, Jaisalmer. Open daily. Thar Desert Festival (Mar).
and recount this story, & 8
with its intriguing Extraordinary fossilized This remote desert town,
undertones, in their Great Indian tree trunks, some of whose arid soil cannot support
soulful ballads about bustard them 180 million years agriculture, has become a major
Jaisalmer’s history. old, can be seen in this centre for desert handicrafts.
park. They bear witness to the Wood carving, blockprinted
T Bada Bagh fact that this arid area was once textiles, embroidery and carpet
7 km (4 miles) N of fort. & covered with dense forest. weaving are the main source
The royal cenotaphs, with of livelihood for its people. They
elaborately carved ceilings and } Khuri also lavish their skills on their
fine equestrian statues of the 40 km (25 miles) SW of Jaisalmer. mud huts, which are beautifully
rulers, are set in a green oasis. Set among sand dunes, decorated with geometric and
Next to them is the Bhaironji this little village is a superb floral patterns. Barmer buzzes
Temple, frequented by childless example of desert architecture. with activity during the annual
women, who offer their silver Functional as well as beautiful, Tilwara Fair (January/February),
girdles to the deity in the hope the village houses have thick one of the many large cattle
that he will cure their infertility. mud walls that provide fairs in Rajasthan.
T Lodurva
15 km (9 miles) NW of Jaisalmer.
The capital of the Bhatti
Rajputs before they built the
fort at Jaisalmer, Lodurva was
abandoned after it was sack ed
by Muslim invaders in the
11th century. A group of Jain
temples dominates this site,
where the remains of many
other fine buildings lie Traditional thatched mud hut at Jaisalmer
For hotels and restaurants in this region see p699 and pp712–13


394-395_EW_India.indd 394 26/04/17 11:54 am

R A JASTHAN  395


i Camel Safari Around Jaisalmer

The fascinating desertscape around Jaisalmer is best
explored on a camel safari. A two-day excursion takes Tips for Riders
in historic sights and villages of sheep and camel Duration: Two days and two
herders. Overnight stays in tents offer magical dawns nights. Day 1: Jaisalmer to
and sunsets amid the dunes. Cushions are provided, Lodurva via Bada Bagh and
Ramkunda, 18 km (11 miles).
but riders are advised to carry an extra one, to help Day 2: Lodurva to Sam via Kahala
soften the effects of the camel’s lurching gait. and Kanoi, 20 km (12 miles); Sam
to Jaisalmer (by jeep), 45 km (28
miles). Overnight stays: Camps
at Lodurva and Sam. For more
details on safaris, see p727; for
tour operators, see p731.

1 Jaisalmer
The camels set off
2 Bada Bagh from the First Gate of
The cenotaphs of the maharawals (rulers) of Jaisalmer’s magnificent
Jaisalmer are surrounded by green mango groves 12th-century fort.
and thorny khejri (Prosopsis cinerararia) trees. Kishangarh
3 Ramkunda Baramsar
A picnic lunch is served
at this little village with a
15th-century Shiva temple.



Bikaner
Damodara
Barmer




Kuldhera

6 Kanoi
The older houses in this 5 Kahala
village are painted with This hamlet of
flowers, animals and birds. mud houses
The village craftsmen make is inhabited by 4 Lodurva
elaborately carved camel herders of goats The night is spent at the old cap ital
saddles inlaid with brass. and sheep. They of the maharawals, which has lovely
also weave Jain temples. Dinner is served under
attractive blankets. a star-studded sky.
0 km 5
0 miles 5
7 Sam
Rippling sand
dunes stretch as
far as the eye can
Key see. The 45-km
(28-mile) journey
Tour route
back to Jaisalmer
Other roads the next morning
National highway is by jeep.
Historic Mehrangarh Fort, Jodhpur


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398  WESTERN INDIA


Neminath, the 22nd Environs
Jain tirthan kara, Achalgarh, 8 km (5 miles)
dates to 1231 and is beyond Dilwara, has the ruins
even more ornately of a 15th­century fort, and a Shiva
carved. Its most temple. The latter has a statue
glorious feature, of Nandi made with over 4,000 kg
the main hall, has (8,818 lbs) of gold, silver, brass and
a magnificent lotus­ copper. A five­minute walk from
shaped, tiered the temple is Guru Shikhar,
pendant carved from Rajasthan’s highest point at 1,721
a single block of m (5,646 ft). It is marked by a
marble, descending small but exquisite Vishnu temple.
from its domed
ceiling. Behind the
main shrine is the a Ranakpur
fascinating Hall of Rajsamand district. 90 km (56 miles)
Donors, with a series NW of Udaipur. @ Temple Complex:
of figures mounted Open daily. Closed to menstruating
Intricately carved Vimala Vasahi Temple on elephants, some women. Leather articles are not
in black marble. allowed inside.
p Mount Abu There are also life­size statues
of the donors and their wives, Set in a secluded, wooded
Sirohi district. 185 km (115 miles) with every detail of their dress valley of the Aravalli Hills, the
W of Udaipur. * 22,100. £ Abu Rd, and jewellery exquisitely
20 km (12 miles) SE of town centre, then 15th­century Ranakpur
bus. @ n opp main bus station, and painstakingly carved. temple complex,
(02974) 23 5151. _ Summer The focal point of dominated by the great
Festival (Jun). Mount Abu town is Adinath Temple, is one
Nakki Lake, ringed of the five great holy
Rajasthan’s only hill station, by colonial mansions places of the Jain faith.
Mount Abu has one of India’s dating to the late 19th The grand scale and
most spectacular sights – the century, and the summer sheer architectural
Dilwara Jain Temples. This group palaces of Rajput rulers. complexity of the white
of five marble temples is situated The curiously shaped Toad’s marble temple distinguish
on a hill 3 km (2 miles) northeast Rock overlooks the lake, and it as perhaps the single
of the town. The two most out­ Sunset Point, southwest most impressive example of
standing are the Vimala Vasahi of the lake, offers some Western Indian temple
Temple and the Luna Vasahi spectacular views from a Dancer, Luna architecture (see pp400–
Temple, which have incredibly stone terrace. Vasahi Temple 401). The temple has an
intricate and delicate carvings. About 4 km (2 miles) unusual four­sided plan,
The sculptural details on the below Mount Abu, just off the with four separate entrances.
doorways, archways, pillars and main highway leading to the Each entrance leads through a
ceilings of both these temples town, is the historic Gaumukh veritable forest of columns, and
are simply breathtaking, and the (“Cow’s Mouth”) Temple with a a number of beautifully
marble is worked so finely that in natural spring flowing from the ornamented halls and chapels, to
places it is almost translucent. mouth of a marble cow. the central sanctum contain ing a
The Vimala Vasahi Temple, four­faced image of Adinath.
dedicated to the first Jain  Dilwara Jain Temples Each of the temple’s 1,444
tirthankara, Adinath, was built in Open daily. Closed to menstruating pillars is carved with different
1031 by Vimala Shah, a wealthy women. Leather articles are not patterns of floral motifs, and the
prime minister of the Solanki allowed inside. play of light and shadow on
kings of Gujarat. A statue of
him seated on an elephant is
in a pavilion to the right of
the entrance. Inside, graceful
nymphs and musicians, spirited
horses and elephants adorn the
arches and pillars, and the superb
11­tiered domed ceiling in the
main hall. The inner sanctum has
a statue of Adinath in tranquil
meditation, while 52 carved
niches contain images of the
other tirthankaras. The Luna
Vasahi Temple, dedicated to Jain temple complex at Ranakpur
For hotels and restaurants in this region see p699 and pp712–13


398-399_EW_India.indd 398 26/04/17 11:46 am
Eyewitness Travel LAYERS PRINTED:
Catalogue template “UK” LAYER
(Source v2.6)
Date 12th July 2013
Size 125mm x 217mm