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The ideal travel companion, full of insider advice on what to see and do, plus detailed itineraries and

comprehensive maps for exploring this culturally vibrant and diverse country.

Savour superb views of the Taj Mahal, learn all about South Indian culture in Chennai or explore Hindu and

Buddhist cave temples on Elephanta Island: everything you need to know is clearly laid out within colour-

coded chapters. Discover the best of India with this indispensable travel guide.


Inside DK Eyewitness Travel Guide India:

- Over 50 colour maps help you navigate with ease
- Simple layout makes it easy to find the information you need
- Comprehensive tours and itineraries of India, designed for every interest and budget
- Illustrations and floorplans show the inside of icons such as the Amber Fort in Rajasthan, the National

Museum in Delhi, the Victoria Memorial in Kolkata and more
- Colour photographs of India's bustling cities, historic buildings, elaborate temples, beautiful beaches,

mountainous interior, lush tea plantations and more
- Historical and cultural context gives you a richer travel experience: learn about the country's fascinating history and culture, colourful festivals, remarkable architecture, and traditional music, dance and fashion
- Detailed chapters, with area maps, cover Delhi; Haryana and Punjab; Himachal Pradesh; Ladakh, Jammu and Kashmir; Uttar Pradesh and Uttarakhand; Bihar and Jharkhand; Madhya Pradesh and Chhattisgarh; Kolkata (Calcutta); West Bengal and Sikkim; Odisha; Assam; Rajasthan; Gujarat; Mumbai (Bombay); Maharashtra; Goa; Karnataka; Chennai (Madras); Tamil Nadu; Andaman Islands; Kerala; Andhra Pradesh and Telangana
- Essential travel tips: our expert choices of where to stay, eat, shop and sightsee, plus visa and health

information

DK Eyewitness Travel Guide India is a detailed, easy-to-use guide designed to help you get the most from

your visit to India.

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(DK Eyewitness) Travel Guide - India

The ideal travel companion, full of insider advice on what to see and do, plus detailed itineraries and

comprehensive maps for exploring this culturally vibrant and diverse country.

Savour superb views of the Taj Mahal, learn all about South Indian culture in Chennai or explore Hindu and

Buddhist cave temples on Elephanta Island: everything you need to know is clearly laid out within colour-

coded chapters. Discover the best of India with this indispensable travel guide.


Inside DK Eyewitness Travel Guide India:

- Over 50 colour maps help you navigate with ease
- Simple layout makes it easy to find the information you need
- Comprehensive tours and itineraries of India, designed for every interest and budget
- Illustrations and floorplans show the inside of icons such as the Amber Fort in Rajasthan, the National

Museum in Delhi, the Victoria Memorial in Kolkata and more
- Colour photographs of India's bustling cities, historic buildings, elaborate temples, beautiful beaches,

mountainous interior, lush tea plantations and more
- Historical and cultural context gives you a richer travel experience: learn about the country's fascinating history and culture, colourful festivals, remarkable architecture, and traditional music, dance and fashion
- Detailed chapters, with area maps, cover Delhi; Haryana and Punjab; Himachal Pradesh; Ladakh, Jammu and Kashmir; Uttar Pradesh and Uttarakhand; Bihar and Jharkhand; Madhya Pradesh and Chhattisgarh; Kolkata (Calcutta); West Bengal and Sikkim; Odisha; Assam; Rajasthan; Gujarat; Mumbai (Bombay); Maharashtra; Goa; Karnataka; Chennai (Madras); Tamil Nadu; Andaman Islands; Kerala; Andhra Pradesh and Telangana
- Essential travel tips: our expert choices of where to stay, eat, shop and sightsee, plus visa and health

information

DK Eyewitness Travel Guide India is a detailed, easy-to-use guide designed to help you get the most from

your visit to India.

K OCHI  649















Bishop’s House
Once the Portuguese governor’s
house, this 16th-century structure
Peter Celli Street is now home to Kochi’s bishop.
Many hotels and shops
are located here.
United Club, once a British
club, now houses a school.


C E L L I S T R E E T Bishop’s
House

P E T E R
R I D S D A L E R O A D PA R A D E R O A D Malabar House Residency
This historic house is now a
wonderful hotel.




R O A D










N E W S E A W A L L The Dutch
cemetery


Key
Suggested route




. St Francis Church
Vasco da Gama was
buried here in 1524,
before his body was
taken to Portugal.




648-649_EW_India.indd 649 26/04/17 11:50 am

650  SOUTH INDIA

q Lakshadweep Islands
Cherbaniani Reef LAKSHADWEEP
Formerly the Laccadives, the Lakshadweep ISLANDS
Islands are an archipelago of 36 exquisite Byramgore Reef
coral islands, with untouched beaches
and verdant coconut groves, scattered Chetlat Island
off the Kerala coast in the Arabian Sea. Bitra Island
With a total land area of only 32 sq km Kiltan Island
(12 sq miles), Lakshadweep (which means Perumulappara Kadmat Island
100,000 islands) is the smallest Union Amindivi Island
Territory in India. The atolls enclose Bangaram Island Pitti Island Androth Island
shallow lagoons harbouring India’s richest Agatti Island
diversity of coral varieties, and a multitude Kavaratti Island
of colourful reef fish. Only two islands –
Bangaram and Kadmat – are open to Suheli Island
foreign visitors, while Indian visitors have Kalpeni Island
a choice of six; all the islands offer superb
snorkelling and scuba-diving.





0 kilometres 100
0 miles 50
Minicoy Island
Wind-surfing in the Lakshadweep Islands
Kavaratti Island Agatti Island available, including sailing. A
450 km (280 miles) W of Kochi. 55 km (34 miles) NW of Kavaratti health certificate from a doctor
4 Open to Indian passport Island. ~ 4 Open to Indian is required for diving.
holders only.  passport holders only. 
Lakshadweep’s administrative Lakshadweep’s only airport is Kadmat Island
headquarters, Kavaratti is the on Agatti Island. It has a fine 70 km (43 miles) N of Kavaratti
busiest island, and home to a lagoon and offers easy access Island. 4 
large number of mainlanders, for day visits to the uninhab ited Thickly covered with palm trees,
most of whom work for the islands of Bangaram, Tinnakara Kadmat Island has two fine
government. It has beautiful and Parali I and II. Although lagoons, to the east and west.
white beaches, and its crystal- all visitors arriving by plane The Water Sports Institute
clear lagoon is popular with must go through Agatti, the offers canoeing, kayaking and
water sports enthusiasts. island itself is not open to glass-bottomed boat rides,
There are 52 mosques foreign visitors. and the Lacadives Dive School,
on the island that cater to on the same premises, offers
the predominantly Muslim Bangaram Island
population. The Ujra Mosque 58 km (36 miles) NW of Kavaratti.
(restricted entry) has an ornate 4 
ceiling, carved from driftwood. The uninhabited Bangaram
The island also has a Marine Island is covered with dense
Aquarium, which displays a groves of coconut palms and
variety of tropical fish and corals. has lovely sandy beaches.
The Bangaram Island Resort,
run by Casino Hotels of Kochi,
has about 30 rooms as well
as a restaurant and bar. Its
lagoon, rich with corals and
tropical fish, is excellent for
scuba diving and snorkelling.
Visitors can also choose from Snorkelling in Lakshadweep Islands’
Sea life off Kavaratti Island the variety of water sports crystal-clear waters
For hotels and restaurants in this region see p703 and pp718–19


650-651_EW_India.indd 650 26/04/17 11:55 am

KER ALA  651


VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
Cherbaniani Reef
Practical Information
Union Territory of Lakshadweep.
Byramgore Reef 200–450 km (124–280 miles) W
of Kochi. * 64,429 (Kavaratti).
Chetlat Island n A trip to Lakshadweep is only
Bitra Island possible as part of a package
tour; individual bookings are not
Kiltan Island permitted. For bookings contact
Perumulappara Kadmat Island Lakshadweep Tourism’s Society
Amindivi Island for Nature Tourism & Sports
Bangaram Island (SPORTS) office in Kochi, (0484)
Pitti Island Androth Island
Agatti Island 266 8387. For enquiries contact
the Delhi office, (011) 2338 6807.
Kavaratti Island Fisherfolk picking mussels among reefs in the shallows Travel permits: These are mandatory
and take at least two months to
snorkelling and scuba diving Kalpeni’s inhabitants were procure (see pp734–5), contact
Suheli Island and has qualified instructors. among the earliest islanders to the Kochi SPORTS office. Many
Kalpeni Island send girls to school, paving the agencies run tours between
 Water Sports Institute way for other islanders who had October and March.
SPORTS Office, Kochi. traditionally kept their girls and Transport
Tel (0484) 266 8387. women confined to the home. ~ from Kochi to Agatti.
 Lacadives Dive School g from Kochi (30 hours).
Tel Mumbai, (022) 6517 7381; Kochi, Minicoy Island 4 Boats are available for trips
(0484) 236 7752. ∑ lacadives.com 258 km (160 miles) S of Kavaratti between the islands.
Island. 4 Open to Indian
Kalpeni Island passport holders only.
125 km (78 miles) SE of Kavaratti Lakshadweep’s southernmost rich in the performing arts;
Island. 4 Open to Indian passport island, Minicoy has a unique the traditional Lava dance
holders only.  culture influenced by the is performed on festive
Minicoy Island The clear, shallow lagoon neighbouring Maldives. Mahl, occasions. Tuna fishing has
of Kalpeni Island is the largest spoken here, is a dialect of the become an important activity,
in Lakshadweep. With Maldivian Dhivehi, with the establishment of
excellent reefs, which is related to a tuna-canning factory.
Kalpeni is ideal the Indo-Persian Minicoy has a grand lagoon,
for diving and languages with a and is the only island in the
snorkelling. Coral script written from archipelago with a stretch
debris, deposited by right to left. Minicoy of mangroves along its
a storm in 1847, has is often referred to as shores. A large lighthouse,
formed raised banks “Women’s Island”, as built by the British in 1885,
on the eastern and A hermit crab coming its ten villages are commands an impressive
southern shores. out of a shell matrilineal. It is also view of the sea.

Marine Life in the Coral Reefs
The Lakshadweep Islands are a conglomeration of atolls – ring-shaped coral reef formations – that are
the richest coral reefs found in India. Formed over thousands of years, they are made up of billions of
minute organisms called polyps. Related to sea anemones, polyps build their skeletons outside their
body. As they grow, their limestone skeletons become elaborate coral formations, with new colonies
spreading over dead ones, and eventually turn into formidable reefs. The complex and fragile reef
ecosystem is alive with an extraordinary range of plants and marine life. Over 600 species of reef fish,
such as clown fish and parrot fish in a dazzling array of colours, giant clams with purple lips, delicate
sea fans and sea anemones, ink-blue starfish, dolphins, harmless sharks and marine turtles, make up
the spectacular diversity of the underwater world. (For tips on eco-friendly diving, see p623.)
Corals of around
100 varieties of coral,
including the boulder-like
porites, the ridged brain
(right) and the branched
staghorn, can be seen
here. The myriad colours
are produced by the variety
Parali Island, one of Lakshadweep’s many atolls of algae that grow on them.





650-651_EW_India.indd 651 26/04/17 11:55 am

652  SOUTH INDIA


e Munnar Less than 2 km (1 mile) from
the town is the quaint High
Idukki district. 130 km (81 miles)
E of Kochi. @ n Tourist Information Range Club. Made of wicker
Centre, Munnar, (04865) 231 516. and teak, it still serves as a
( daily. social centre for Munnar’s
planters and retains a refined,
The picturesque little town old-world atmosphere.
of Munnar lies at a height of Munnar remains a popular
about 1,800 m (5,906 ft), in destination for visitors from
a part of the Western Ghats Tamil Nadu and Kerala. As a
known as the High Ranges. result of this, the town and
The name Munnar (which its environs have witnessed
means “Three Rivers” in Tamil) a proliferation of hotels,
is derived from its location restaurants and shopping
at the confluence of three centres. However, areas further
mountain streams – Kundala, away from the city centre
Mudrapuzha and Nallathanni. remain relatively unspoilt, and
Located in some 24,000 ha the gentle hills offer excellent
Nine-tiered tower dedicated to (59,305 acres) of sprawling tea cycle rides and walks.
Shankaracharya, Kaladi estates, first established by the
British in 1878, Munnar was Environs
w Kaladi once a summer resort for the Mattupetty Lake, 13 km
British government in South (8 miles) north of Munnar,
Ernakulam district. 35 km (22 miles)
NE of Kochi. @ India. The most important is surrounded by semi-alpine
plantation in the High Ranges scenery. A cattle-breeding
This quiet town on the banks today belongs to Tata Tea, centre is located nearby, and
of the beautiful Periyar river is which oversees almost every it is also possible to go boating
celebrated as the birthplace of public facility in the vicinity. or to ride elephants.
the great saint and philosopher,
Shankaracharya. Two shrines,
built in 1910 on the riverbank,
honour his memory. One is
dedicated to him and the other
to the goddess Sharada, and
both are maintained by the
Sringeri Matha (see p531).
Nearby is a spot known
as Brindavan, where the
Shankaracharya’s mother,
Aryamba, was cremated. The
old Shri Krishna Temple, near
the Sharada Temple, has an
image of the deity, said to
have been installed by
Shankaracharya himself. On the
road to the Krishna Temple is a Tea plantations around Munnar
46-m (151-ft) tall, nine-tiered
octagonal tower, the Shri Adi
Shankaracharya Kirti Stambha Adi Shankaracharya (AD 788–820)
Mandapa. Each of its floors Adi Shankaracharya, only 32 when he died, travelled the
commemorates the life and length and breadth of India, wrote erudite
works of Shankaracharya. commentaries on Hindu scriptures, and
composed devotional poems and prayers.
Environs The core of his monist philosophy is
The Malayattor Church, 8 km that there is only one reality and that is
(5 miles) east of Kaladi, is said to Brahman, the all-pervading cosmic force
of which the human soul is a part, while all
be where St Thomas erected a material objects are mere illusions (maya).
cross. The 1,000-year old rock-cut The Buddhist elements in his philosophy
Kalill Temple, 22 km (14 miles) provoked, during his lifetime, the orthodox
southeast of Kaladi, was originally Brahminical charge that he was a “Buddha
a Jain temple. It is now dedicated in disguise”. His historical importance lies
to the mother goddess. Unlike at in the fact that he provided an intellectual The philosopher
other temples, a female elephant basis to Hindusim. Adi Shankaracharya
is used in all ceremonial rituals.
For hotels and restaurants in this region see p703 and pp718–19


652-653_EW_India.indd 652 26/04/17 11:50 am
Eyewitness Travel LAYERS PRINTED:
Catalogue template “UK” LAYER
(Source v2.6)
Date 12th July 2013
Size 125mm x 217mm

KER ALA  653


t Kodungallur
Thrissur district. 32 km (20 miles) N of
Kochi. @ _ Id (Feb/Mar), Bharani
Festival (Mar/Apr).
Known as Muziris to the
Greeks, and Cranganore to the
Europeans, Kodungallur was the
historic capital of the Cheraman
Perumals, monarchs of the
Chera empire (see p47). Situated
at the mouth of the Periyar river,
this was the Malabar Coast’s
main port until a flood tide in
1341 silted up the harbour. After
Captivating landscape of Eravikulam National Park this catastrophe, Kochi (see
pp646–9) became the main port.
r Eravikulam to macaques, leopards, and The town is today a major
National Park packs of dhole, the rare Indian destination for Hindus,
wild dog. Its streams contain Christians and Muslims alike.
Idukki district. 16 km (10 miles) NE of trout, and there are also The Bhagavati Temple, in the
Munnar. @ or auto-rickshaw from more than 90 species of birds, city centre, is the venue of a
Munnar to Rajamalai, the entry point. including song birds such three-day festival of erotic
n For information, contact Divisional
Forest Officer, Munnar, (04865) 23 1587. as the laughing thrush. song and dance. This temple
Eravikulam is regarded as one
was originally the shrine of a
Open Apr–Jan. &
of the best-managed national Dravidian goddess. It was
The rolling high-altitude parks in the country. The Muduvan then taken over by either
grasslands, a striking contrast tribals, who live at the periphery the Buddhists or the Jains. The
to the dense sholas or tropical of the park, are employed to assist festival marks the reclaiming
montane forests of the valleys, in its conservation. Their traditional of the site for the goddess.
are unique to the mountain method of selectively burning St Thomas (see p577) is said
landscape of the Western parts of the grassland to have landed here in AD 52.
Ghats. Easily the best prevents large forest fires, The Mar Thoma Pontifical
preserved stretch of and also helps regenerate Shrine houses a sacred relic
this extra ordinarily the tender grass on which that was brought from the
beautiful landscape is young tahr feed. Eravikulam Vatican in 1953 to celebrate
the Eravikulam National is also famous for the kurunji the anniversary of the saint’s
Park, spread across an (Strobilanthes kunthianus), the arrival 1,900 years earlier.
area of 97 sq km (37 sq miles) blue flowers that suddenly The Cheraman Mosque,
at the base of the bloom en masse every 2 km (1 mile) from the city
Anaimudi Mountain. Kurunji flower in 12 years and transform centre, was built in AD 629 by
With a height of 2,695 m full bloom the rocky landscape Malik Bin Dinar, who introduced
(8,842 ft), this has the into a sea of blue. The Islam to Kerala. Perhaps the
distinction of being the highest kurunji is next expected to first mosque in India, it
peak south of the Himalayas. bloom massively here in 2018. resembles a Hindu temple.
Anaimudi, which means
“Elephant Head”, not Kerala’s Matrilineal Family System
surprisingly resembles one.
The peak and its environs Called marumakkathayam in Kerala, the
provide good hiking territory. matrilineal family system, whereby inheritance
The park, on the border of is determined through the female line, is
Kerala and Tamil Nadu, was believed to have evolved in the late 10th
established in 1978 with the century. This was a period of internecine
specific aim of conserving warfare, and by placing women at the core
the endangered Nilgiri tahr, a of the inheritance, men could go to battle,
rare breed of mountain goat knowing that their children’s material well-
(see p23). Today, the park is being was protected. Children thus bear their
home to about 3,000 tahr, the mother’s family name, and are identified as
members of her family, with her brothers
single largest population of this performing the role of the father figure. A Nair matriarch
slate-grey goat in the world. The Nairs are best known for this system, from Kerala
Extremely agile, it inhabits since warriors traditionally came from this
the rocky slopes, and can be community. Anthropologists, however, have traced its origin
observed at surprisingly close to the cult of the mother goddess widely prevalent in Kerala.
quarters. The park is also home



652-653_EW_India.indd 653 26/04/17 11:50 am

654  SOUTH INDIA


The Asian Elephant

Literature, art and culture in India celebrate the elephant. Ganesha, the elephant-
headed son of Shiva and Parvati, is the Remover of Obstacles, and his name is
invoked before any important task is undertaken (see p471). Unlike in the rest
of India, Ganesha is a minor deity in Kerala. Elephants play a major role in
the daily life and festivals of the people of Kerala, who have a uniquely close
and affectionate relationship with these animals. Though mainly used as beasts
of burden, elephants also participate in temple rituals, where they carry the deity
in sacred processions. For such occasions, elephants are splendidly caparisoned
with ornaments of gold. The wealthier temples have their own elephants.



The tusker (a
male with large
tusks) faces
great danger
from poaching,
despite the
ban on ivory.




Asian Elephant
Denizen of the forests and floodplains of the
Himalayan foothills, Central India and
the southern highlands, the Asian elephant
(Elephas maximus) is not as tall as the
African elephant, and has smaller ears.




This 19th-century print shows how trained
elephants were used to capture wild ones by
driving them into khedas (corrals).

In Kerala, elephants are often
seen carrying their own
Temple elephants are usually bought at the feed. Most people allow
Sonepur Mela in Bihar (see p220). The mahout mahouts to cut as
devotes hours every day to grooming and many fronds of palm
training them for temple festivals. All as the animal needs
commands are given in Malayalam. – up to 200 kg
(441 lb) a day.









Icons and motifs depicting the elephant are
common in Indian art, as they are an integral part
of Hindu mythology and pageantry.





654-655_EW_India.indd 654 26/04/17 11:55 am

KER ALA  655


that belong to the deity – it
is customary to present an
elephant as an offering here.
The renowned performing
arts and teaching centre, the
Kerala Kala Mandalam, is
32 km (20 miles) northeast
of Thrissur. Founded in 1930
by the famous Malayali poet,
Vallathol Narayan Menon,
at Cheruthuruthy, it offers
intensive training in Kathakali,
Mohiniattam and Koodiyattam
dance forms. Instrumental and
vocal music forms are taught
The Catholic Lourdes Cathedral in Thrissur here as well. The complex
also has a large natyagriha
y Thrissur engravings recovered from the (dance hall) for performances.
forests of Thrissur.
Thrissur district. 80 km (50 miles)
N of Kochi. * 312,1200. £ @ Thrissur is often dubbed E Kerala Kala Mandalam
n Tourist Office, Govt Guest House, Kerala’s cultural capital, as the Tel (04884) 26 2305 for permission.
(0487) 232 0800. _ Thrissur Pooram town is home to two prestigious Open Mon–Fri. Closed public hols,
(Apr/May), Kamdassamkadavu state-run cultural institutions. Apr/May.
Boat Races (Aug/Sep). These are the Kerala Sangeetha
Nataka Academy (for music and
This town, built around an theatre) and the Kerala Sahitya
elevated area called The Round, Academy (for literature).
was planned during the reign The town suffered political
of Raja Rama Varma, the ruler upheavals for centuries, having
of Cochin (Kochi) in the 18th been successively ruled by the
century. In the heart of The Zamorins of Kozhikode (see p657),
Round is the multiroofed Tipu Sultan of Mysuru, and the
Vadakkunnathan Temple. rulers of Kochi. The Dutch and
This great Shiva temple was the British have also made their
built in the 9th century, and presence felt in the history of
has superb woodcarvings and this district, as is evident from the
rich decorative murals. The many impressive churches, such
splendid Pooram festival is held as the late 19th-century Lourdes
here each year, with the main Cathedral, around the town.
activities taking place outside
the temple walls (non-Hindus Environs Entrance, Shri Krishna Temple
are not permitted inside the Guruvayur, 29 km (18 miles)
shrine). Northeast of the temple west of Thrissur, has Kerala’s
is the State Museum, displaying most popular temple. Legend The Pooram Festival
a good collection of murals, has it that the 16th-century Shri A pooram (meeting) is a
woodcarvings, sculpture Krishna Temple was created by temple festival marked by the
and antique ornaments. The Guru (“Instructor of the Gods”), ceremonious congregation, at
Archaeological Museum housed and Vayu (“God of the Winds”). a particular temple, of deities
from various other temples.
in the Shakthan Thampuran The temple’s elephant sanc tuary Though a number of poorams
Palace features rare stone is within the compound are held throughout Kerala,
of an old palace nearby. It Thrissur’s Pooram is the most
houses more than 40 elephants spectacular. Held between
April and May, it celebrates
the processional arrival of two
goddesses before Shiva, after
whom the town is named.
Through a sea of devotees and
the hypnotic beat of percussion
instruments, two rows of
elephants, with the central
ones carrying the deities,
move majestically towards
each other. A firework display
ends the celebrations.
Vadakkunnathan Temple in Thrissur
For hotels and restaurants in the region see p703 and pp718–19


654-655_EW_India.indd 655 26/04/17 11:55 am

656  SOUTH INDIA

u Palakkad
Palakkad district. 99 km (62 miles)
NE of Kochi. * 2,809,900. £
n Tourist Information Centre, near
Children’s Park, (0491) 253 8996.
_ Chariot Festival (Oct/Nov).
Situated at the base of the
Western Ghats, Palakkad (Palghat)
derives its name from the dense
forests (kadu) of pala (Alsteria
scholaris) trees that once covered
the land. Today, however, paddy
fields and coconut plantations
have taken their place.
Tipu’s Fort, in the heart of
the town, was built by Haider
Ali of Mysore in 1766; it was Silent Valley, a haven of rare plants and herbs
subsequently occupied by the
British after they defeated his i Silent Valley 400 species of moths, is also
son and successor, Tipu Sultan National Park found here. Visitors can trek to
(see p521), some 30 years the source of the Kunthipuzha
later. This sombre, granite Palakkad district. 88 km (55 miles) NE river, which flows through
structure now houses various of Kochi. @ Mannarkkad, the entry this valley.
point. Jeeps available to Mukkali.
government offices. n For permits and reservations Accommodation is available
The large Vishwanatha (compulsory), contact the Wildlife at the forest lodge in Mukkali,
Temple, on the banks of Warden, Mannarkkad, (04924) 222 just outside the park.
the Kalpathy river, is famous 056. ∑ silentvalley.gov.in
for its chariot procession.
On the outskirts of town are The Silent Valley National Park, o Malappuram
the extensive Malampuzha spread over an area of 238 sq Malappuram district. 153 km (95 miles)
Gardens, laid out above a huge km (92 sq miles), preserves N of Kochi. @ n (0473) 273 1504.
irrigation dam built across the what is perhaps the country’s _ Valiya Nercha (Feb/Mar), Shivratri
Malampuzha river. Pleasant boat last substantial stretch of virgin (Feb/Mar).
cruises are possible on a large tropical evergreen forest. An
lake, nestling in the foothills. important part of the Nilgiri This “land atop hills” stands at the
Biosphere Reserve (see entrance to the Malabar region,
Environs p524), it represents and is crossed by three major
The town of Kollengode some of the spec­ rivers – the Chaliyar, the Kadalundi
is 19 km (12 miles) tacular biodiversity of and the Bharatapuzha. A military
south of Palakkad the Western Ghats. The centre of the Zamorins of Calicut,
and is set in pastoral park is renowned for its it was the scene of fierce fighting
surro undings. The Slender loris rare plants and herbs, between British forces and the
Vishnu Temple and which include over Mopplahs (Muslim peasants),
Kollengode Palace are worth a 100 species of orchids. Wildlife known as the Mopplah Revolt.
visit. Thrithala, 75 km (47 miles) includes tigers, elephants, the The most serious uprising
west of Palak kad, has a Shiva Nilgiri langur, the sloth bear, occurred in 1921, after which
temple and the ruins of a mud the shy nocturnal slender loris many rebels were exiled to the
fort. Its most important and the endange red lion­tailed Andamans (see pp622–3). The
sight, the Kattilmadam macaque. A variety of old British barracks, on a hilltop
Temple, is a granite birds, as well as overlooking the Kadalundi
Buddhist monument 100 species of river, now houses the district
dating from the butterflies and administration. Malappuram is
9th–10th centuries. also an important seat of both
Hindu and Islamic learning.
Environs
Kerala’s pioneering Ayurvedic
institution (see p633) is at
Kottakkal, 12 km (7 miles)
southwest of Malappuram.
Started in 1902, the Kottakkal
Arya Vaidya Sala is based in
Desolate ruins of Tipu’s Fort at Palakkad a splendid building, and has
For hotels and restaurants in this region see p703 and pp718–19


656-657_EW_India.indd 656 26/04/17 11:50 am
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KER ALA  657


that Vasco da Gama, cardamom, pepper, turmeric
the Portuguese explorer and coffee are sorted and
who discovered the sea packaged in the old warehouses
route to India, was first along the waterfront.
received by the Zamorin
in his palace in May E Pazhassirajah Museum
1498. Dominating the East Hill. Tel (0495) 238 4382.
city centre is the large Open Tue–Sun.
Manamchira Tank,
Arya Vaidya Sala, at Kottakkal flanked by the Town Environs
Hall and the Public A short 18-km (11-mile) drive
a research centre and hospital. Library, both fine examples north of the city leads to the
Tirur, 32 km (20 miles) southwest of traditional architecture. small village of Kappad, where
of Malappuram, was the 16th- A striking Roman Catholic a stone plaque on the beach
century birthplace of the father cathedral also stands near commemorates the spot where
of Malayalam literature, Tunchat the Manamchira Tank. Vasco da Gama is supposed to
Ramanuja Ezhutha chan. He also The town’s Muslim heritage have landed in 1498.
taught the Malayalam alphabet is indicated by its numerous The historic village of
to children, a practice that mosques, remarkable for their Beypore, 10 km (6 miles) south
continues at a shrine dedicated massive size and elaborate of Kozhikode, is believed to be
to him. woodcarvings. Among these, the fabled Ophir, referred to in
One of the earliest Portuguese the Mishqal Palli, near the port, ancient Greek and Roman texts.
settlements on the Malabar is the most impressive, with a Artisans still follow the traditional
Coast was at Tanur, 34 km (21 five-tiered tiled roof. Note that methods of their forefathers
miles) southwest of Malappuram. this mosque is not open to at this ship building centre
St Francis Xavier (see p502) is said non-Muslims. (see p637). The type of dhows
to have come here in 1546. The Pazhassirajah Museum that were built here for Arab
exhibits wood and metal merchants more than 1,500 years
sculptures and reconstructions ago are still in demand in West
p Kozhikode of megalithic monuments. Asia. Old vessels are also brought
The Art Gallery next door has here to be repaired. Visitors
Kozhikode district. 254 km (158 miles)
N of Kochi. * 436,600. k Karipur, paintings by Raja Ravi Varma, should make reservations.
25 km (16 miles) S of city centre. £ the 19th-century painter who Thusharagiri, 50 km (31 miles)
@ n District Tourism Promotion belonged to a princely family away from Kozhikode, is a
Council, (0495) 272 0012. from Travancore (see p630). plantation town that abounds
_ Shivratri Utsavam (Feb/Mar). Kozhikode’s busy shopping in rubber, areca nut, pepper,
area, the quaintly named ginger and spices. It is also a
This busy commercial town, Sweetmeats Street, was once trekking and rock-climb ing
better known throughout the lined with shops selling the destination. The surrounding
world as Calicut, was the capital famous Calicut halwa, a brightly hills offer some exciting trails.
of the kingdom of the powerful coloured sweet made of flour One of the most popular is a
Zamorins (a Portuguese corruption and sugar. Today, SM Street, as 12-km (7-mile) long trek that
of their title, Samoothiri). Under it is popularly known, has only a crosses three lovely waterfalls,
them the town prospered as a few shops that sell halwa. Court one of which falls from a height
major centre of the Malabar Road, leading off SM Street, of 75 m (246 ft), and climbs up
trade in spices and textiles, and houses the bustling Spice through dense evergreen forests,
it was from Calicut that the Market. Kozhikode is today the where a variety of birds and
word calico originated, as storage and trading centre for animals can be spotted. The
the term for white, unbleached hill produce from Wayanad nearest airport is at Karipur, about
cotton. It was in Calicut, too, (see p658); spices such as cloves, 23 km (14 miles) from Kozhikode.













Fishermen with colourful nets in the harbour of Beypore




656-657_EW_India.indd 657 26/04/17 11:50 am

658  SOUTH INDIA


m/6,890 ft) is 14 km (9 miles)
southwest of Kalpetta, and is
excellent for trekking
and bird-watching.
Sulthan Bathery (Sultan’s
Battery), 10 km (6 miles) east of
Kalpetta, derives its name from
Tipu Sultan of Mysore (see p521),
who built a fort here in the 18th
century. The Edakkal Caves
are 12 km (7 miles) away. Their
inscriptions and carvings of
human and animal figures are
said to date to prehistoric times;
some believe that these caves
were the refuge of Jain monks.
The caves’ environs abound
in megaliths. The Wayanad
(Muthanga) Wildlife Sanctuary,
16 km (10 miles) east of Sultan
Bathery, was established in
1973 and is part of the Nilgiri
Biosphere Reserve (see p524).
Mananthavady, 35 km
(22 miles) north of Kalpetta, was
the scene of a long guerrilla war
Tree House in Wayanad, blending into the sylvan landscape between the local king, Pazhassi
Raja, and British troops, led by
a Wayanad District apparently haunted the Lord Arthur Wellesley, the
highway until it was exorcised. future Duke of Wellington,
280 km (174 miles) NE from Kochi to
Kalpetta. @ n Tourist Information Kalpetta, the district who defeated Napoleon
centre, Kalpetta, (04936) 204 441. headquarters, is 15 km (9 miles) at Waterloo. About 32 km
to the north. Once a major Jain (20 miles) to the north is the
A remote region of virgin centre (see p400), Vishnu Temple
rainforests and mist-clad it has two Jain at Thirunelli,
mountain ranges, Wayanad temples situated built beside
provides the ideal climatic nearby. The the Papanasini
conditions for Kerala’s extensive Anantanatha- river. This is a
plantations of cardamom, swami Temple is major pilgrimage
pepper, coffee and rubber. at Puliyarmala, site, where
Relatively untouched 6 km (4 miles) Coffee blossoms in a Hindus perform
by modernization, this is the away, while the Wayanad plantation funeral rites.
homeland of large groups of Glass Temple of
indigenous tribal communities, Kottamunda, dedicated to T Edakkal Caves
such as the cave-dwelling the third Jain tirthankara, Open Tue–Sun. 8 &
Cholanaikens, and the down- Parsvanatha, is on the slope of O Wayanad Sanctuary
trodden Paniyas. It is also the Vellarimala Hill, 20 km (12 miles) & 8 Extra charges for photography.
favoured habitat of animals to the south. The area’s tallest Permits from Wildlife Warden, Sulthan
such as the, Nilgiri langur, peak, Chembara Peak (2,100 Bathery, (04936) 220 454.
wild elephants and the giant
Malabar squirrel.
The gateway to Wayanad is
Lakkidi, at its southern end.
An ancient tree on the main
highway, ominously draped
with a heavy iron chain,
presents a curious sight. Local
legend claims that it binds the
angry spirit of a Paniya tribal
member who showed a group
of British surveyors the path
through the dense forest.
Instead of being rewarded, he
was killed here, and his spirit Remains of Tipu’s fort, Sulthan Bathery
For hotels and restaurants in this region see p703 and pp718–19


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s Mahe
Union Territory of Puducherry.
Mahe district. 48 km (30 miles)
N of Kozhikode. @ _ St Theresa’s
Feast (Oct).
Situated on the Mayyazhi river,
this former French enclave is
named after the French admiral,
Mahe de La Bourdonnais, who
landed here in November 1741.
A French colony until 1954, it is
today part of the Union Territory
of Puducherry (see pp590–93). Fishmongers awaiting the daily catch at Thalaserry
Only some traces of Mahe’s
colonial heritage remain, one of their first trading posts f Kannur
among them the beautiful at Thalaserry at the end of the Kannur district. 66 km (41 miles)
old residence of the French 17th century. In 1708, they NE of Kozhikode. £ @ n District
administrator, at the mouth of built the enormous laterite Tourism Promotion Council, Taluk
the river. It is now the office- fort on the coast. An old Office Campus, (0497) 270 6336.
cum-residence of the Indian lighthouse still stands on its ( daily.
government’s admin istrator. ramparts, and there are also
Mahe’s main church, the two secret tunnels, one of This scenic coastal town, called
whitewashed, Baroque St which leads into the sea. Cannanore by European settlers,
Theresa’s Church, is situated on The Thalaserry Cricket Club, was an important maritime
the highway. The town’s main founded in 1860, is one of centre in the 14th and 15th
“industry” seems to centre the oldest in India, as cricket centuries. The
around the supply of cheap was introduced here in Portuguese built
alcohol, attracting truck drivers the late 18th century. St Angelo Fort, 5 km
and motorists, who come here This region is one (3 miles) south of
from nearby areas to stock up. of the main centres the city, in 1505. This
of kalaripayattu (see enormous laterite
p630), a fact that has structure overlooks
d Thalaserry made it a training the fishing harbour
Kannur district. 255 km (158 miles) ground for circus and is protected by
N of Kochi. £ @ artistes as well. It is a the sea on three sides.
common sight to see It was later occupied
Fishing and agriculture are young men in the Façade of the by the British, who
the major occupations in kalari (gym nasium), fort, Thalassery established a large
Thalaserry (once known as exercising to tone military garrison here.
Tellicherry), and observing their muscles and practising Muzhapilangad Beach, 15 km
the bartering of the day’s with wooden weapons. (9 miles) south of Kannur, is
catch can be an enjoyable Many images of deities a serene spot with a 4-km
experience. The British East adorn the kalari, giving it (2-mile) long sandy beach,
India Company established a sacred character. safe for swimmers.
Theyyam, Kerala’s Spectacular Dance-Ritual
This dance-ritual, particular to the north Malabar region, was originally aimed
at appeasing ancient village deities, the mother goddess, folk heroes,
ancestors and spirits. With the advent of Brahminism, Hindu divinities
replaced many of the earlier ones, and the Theyyam pantheon shrank from
300 to around 40. The Theyyam presen tation begins with the singing of the
thottam (song) in praise of the deity relevant to that particular ritual. This is
followed by the dance, the steps and postures of which show the strong
influence of Kerala’s martial arts tradition, kalaripayattu. Drums, pipes and
cymbals provide the accompaniment. The performers, all male, wear masks,
body paint, colourful costumes and imposing headgear (mudi), which often
rises to a staggering height of more than 2 m (7 ft). The tender leaves of the
coconut palm are cut to various designs and shapes to form part of the
elaborate costume of the dancer. Theyyams, usually annual rituals, are held
A Theyyam dancer clad in a between December and May. However, at the Parassinikadavu Temple, 20 km
colourful costume (12 miles) north of Kannur, Theyyam is performed every day.





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660  SOUTH INDIA



















Laterite ramparts of Bekal Fort, outside Kasaragod town
g Kasaragod after the defeat of Tipu Sultan Dinar, who was a disciple of the
District (see p521). Prophet Muhammad, and who
Many beautiful beaches lie to introduced Islam to Kerala in
400 km (249 miles) NW from Kochi. the north and south of the fort. about AD 664. The grave of
£ @ n Tourism Promotion The closest, Pallikere Malik Ibn Muhammed, a
Council (04994) 256 450.
Beach, provides a descendant of Malik
Kerala’s northernmost district, spectacular view of Ibn Dinar, lies here.
flanked by the Western Ghats the fort. The Kerala The 9th-century
to the east and the Arabian government, along Ananthapura Temple,
Sea to the west, is a fertile with the Bekal Resorts 30 km (19 miles) north
region of thickly forested hills Development of Bekal, is the only
and meandering rivers. The Corporation, has plans A typical temple in Kerala
district is named after its main to develop this area as a temple lamp erected in the centre
town, Kasaragod, a bustling major tourist complex. of a lake. It is said to
centre of the coir and handloom About 6 km (4 miles) north be the original abode of
industries. About 8 km (5 miles) of Bekal, Kappil Beach is a Ananthapadmanabha, the
north of Kasaragod is the secluded area, and ideal for presiding deity of the Anantha
Madhur Temple. This beautiful swimming. Kodi Cliff, at one Padmanabhaswamy Temple
temple, with its copperplate end of the beach, is a scenic in Thiruvananthapuram, the
roofing, has a commanding spot with wonderful views of state capital (see pp630–341).
location overlooking the the sunset on the Arabian Sea. The small hill station of
Madhuvahini river. The Chandragiri Fort, on the Ranipuram is situated 80 km
Situated 16 km (10 miles) banks of the Chandragiri river, (50 miles) east of Kasaragod.
south of Kasaragod is Bekal is 10 km (6 miles) north of Set amid acres of rubber and
Fort, the largest and best- Bekal. This 17th-century fort spice plantations, it offers good
preserved fort in Kerala. This is also attributed to Shivappa opportunities for trekking.
enormous, circular structure Nayak, who built it to defend This region is also the centre
is built with large blocks of his kingdom against the for a number of performing
laterite, and its outer wall rises Vijayanagar rulers (see pp534–5). arts, such as Theyyam
majestically from the sea to a The imposing Malik Dinar (see p659) and Yakshagana,
height of 39 m (128 feet). Inside Mosque, nearby, is said to have the elaborate folk art form
is a cunningly concealed tunnel been founded by Malik Ibn from Karnataka (see p539).
that leads directly to
the sea. The fort’s
origins are shrouded
in mystery, though it
is generally thought to
have been built in the
mid-1600s by a local
chieftain Shivappa
Nayak, whose fiefdom
was in neighbouring
Karnataka. The scene
of much conflict, the
fort was eventually
occupied by the British Ananthapura Temple, built in the middle of a lake
For hotels and restaurants in this region see p703 and pp718–19


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Kathakali: Kerala’s Classical Dance-Drama

Literally meaning “story-play”, Kathakali is a highly evolved classical form of dance,
drama and music (both vocal and instrumental), and is almost 400 years old. Male
actor-dancers, in voluminous colourful skirts, elaborate headdresses and jewellery,
enact stories from the Puranas and epics, mainly the Mahabharata (see p30). The
story unfolds simply at first, before building to a dramatic climax. The frenetic
drumming, the emotive singing and the rhythmic movements of the dancers
reach a crescendo, as the many scenes of love and valour culminate in the triumph
of good over evil. These are traditionally all-night performances, held in temple
courtyards during religious festivals. Modern performances are shorter.
Make-up, applied during a complex
four-hour process, helps identify
characters and define their roles.
Mineral pigments and lamp black are
the main ingredients. A paper frill
defines the jaw line.

Tadi characters
Facial movements are used wear red, white
to convey emotions, and to or black beards.
conduct dialogues. Mythical
bird
Paccha Bejewelled
crowns are
character worn by kathi
characters.











Fingernails
are long and
The female painted silver.
character (minukku)
Kathakali Characters
Voluminous Costumes and facial make-up use symbolic colours. Green (paccha)
skirts signifies divine and heroic characters, such as Krishna and Arjuna, while
royal though arrogant personalities, such as Ravana, are distinguished by
the red (kathi) patch applied over the bridge of the nose on a green
background. Black (kari) is used for demons.

Percussion is
Actor-dancers, all of provided by two
whom are male, do not drums, chenda
speak but instead use and madalam.
symbolic mudras The lead singer
(hand gestures) marks the beat
and facial with a chengila
expressions, (gong), and his
with immense assistant plays
eloquence.
the cymbals.




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SOUTH INDIA  663

ANDHRA PRADESH &
TELANGANA

From the unspoilt beaches of Visakhapatnam along the Coromandel
Coast, to the emerald green paddy fields of Nellore district, much of
Andhra Pradesh is occupied by the rocky Deccan Plateau which rises
1,000 m (3,281 ft) above the fertile coastal plains. This is South India’s
largest state, covering an area of 275,070 sq km (106,205 sq miles). The
main language spoken by its 76 million people is Telugu, though Urdu is
also spoken in the state capital, Hyderabad. This vibrant city was, until 1947, the
seat of the fabulously wealthy royal family, the Asaf Jahi Nizams. Andhra Pradesh’s varied
cultural heritage is visible in its monuments. These include the ancient Buddhist site at
Nagarjunakonda, the great Islamic fort of Golconda and the hilltop Hindu temple at Tirupati,
which attracts more pilgrims than any other temple in India. The state’s distinctive handicrafts
include superb woven ikat textiles, pearl jewellery and inlaid metal bidri work.

Sights at a Glance
Towns, Cities & Districts Historic Sites y Srisailam & Krishna Gorge
1 Hyderabad 2 Golconda u Alampur
3 Pochampalli 8 Ramatirtham i Tirupati
4 Warangal r Amravati p Sri Kalahasti
6 Visakhapatnam t Nagarjunakonda a Puttaparthi
9 Srikakulam District o Chandragiri d Lepakshi
0 East Godavari District s Penukonda Areas of Natural Beauty
q Machilipatnam Temples & Holy Places 7 Borra Caves
w Vijayawada 5 Palampet
e Kondapalli



Adilabad
NH222
Nanded NH7
Jagdalpur
Koraput
NH16
Nizamabad NH43
Bidar Hanamkonda Araku Vizianagaram
Ghanpur Godavari
NH9
NH202
Gulbarga NH221 Bhadrachalam NH5
NH9
Khammam Peddapuram
TELANGANA Rajamudry
Krishna N H214 Draksharamam
Krishna
Guntur NH214A Antarvedi
Tungabhadra
NH7 Kurnool
ANDHRA NH5 0 kilometres 200
Gooty 0 miles 100
NH63 PRADESH
Nellore Key
Pennar
Cuddapah C o r o m a n d e l C o a s t National highway
Major road
NH4
Tumkur NH205 NH18 Minor road
Major railway
NH4 Chittoor NH205
Bengaluru State border
NH48 Chennai
NH46 NH4 Kanchipuram
NH7
Charminar or Four Towers, Hyderabad’s signature landmark For keys to symbols see back flap
662-663_EW_India.indd 663 26/04/17 11:55 am

664  SOUTH INDIA

1 Hyderabad

The fifth largest city in India, Hyderabad was founded in 1591
and planned as a grid with the Charminar (see pp666–7) at
its centre. It has now grown well beyond the confines of the
original walled city, to include another town north of the
Musi river, the military canton ment at Secunderabad, and
a burgeoning high-tech estate, nicknamed “Cyberabad”. The
city’s sights include the grand palaces of its erstwhile rulers, the
Nizams, and the colourful bazaars and mosques of the old city.

E Salarjung Museum
Near Naya Pul. Tel (040) 2457 6443. Portraits of Salarjung III and his son,
Open daily. Closed public hols. painted on ivory
& 8
This eclectic collection of over by some 19th-century statuary,
40,000 objects once belonged while the collection of oil
to Salarjung III, Prime Minister paintings include a Canaletto,
of Hyderabad between 1912 a Guardi and a Landseer.
and 1914. Salarjung’s highly
individual taste ranged from P Osmania General
objects of sublime beauty to Hospital
some bordering on kitsch, which Afzalganj. Tel (040) 2460 0146.
is what makes this museum Open daily.
so fascinating. A spectacular stone building
The pride of the museum is with soaring domes, Osmania
the outstanding Mughal jade General Hospital was built in
collection, which includes an 1925 as part of the seventh
Neo-Classical façade of the 19th-century exquisite, translucent leaf-shaped Nizam’s modernization plan
Purani Haveli cup. Miniature paintings are after a catastrophic flood in
also well represented, including 1908. Opposite it, across the
E Purani Haveli those of the Deccani School river, are the Boys’ High School
(Nizam’s Museum) (see p547), as are Indian stone and the High Court, built in
Near Mir Alam Mandi Rd. Tel (040) 2452 and bronze sculpture, inlaid pink granite and red sandstone.
1029. Open 10am–5pm Sat–Thu. & ivory objects and medieval An imaginative blend of Islamic
This sprawling complex Islamic manuscripts. A prized 13th- decorative detail and Western
of mid-19th-century Neo- century Koran has the signatures interior layouts, all three
Classical buildings was the of three Mughal emperors. buildings, as well as the
main residence of the sixth Salarjung’s rather florid taste city’s Railway Station, were
Nizam, Mahbub Ali Pasha. A in European art is represented constructed between 1914
glimpse of his lavish lifestyle
can be seen in the eastern
wing of the main building, The Nizams of Hyderabad
in the Massarat Mahal. This has Hyderabad was India’s biggest and richest princely state, as large
the Nizam’s gigantic wooden as England and Scotland together. Its rulers, known as the Nizams,
wardrobe, a 73-sq m (786-sq ft) belonged to the Asaf Jahi dynasty, founded in 1724 by Nizam-ul-Mulk,
room with closets on two who first came to Hyderabad as the Mughal governor of the Deccan,
levels, and a mechanical and then established his independence as Mughal power in Delhi
elevator affording access to the waned. The Nizams’ fabulous wealth derived
upper tier. Its contents once largely from their leg endary hoard of emeralds
included 75 identical tweed and their diamond mines near Golconda, and
suits – the Nizam liked the many tales are told of their extravagance and
pattern so much that eccentricities. The seventh and last Nizam,
Osman Ali Khan, was the richest man in India,
he bought the Scottish but, unlike his ancestors, he was a notorious
factory’s entire stock of it. miser who smoked cigarette butts and wore
Purani Haveli also houses the same set of shabby, patched clothes for
the Nizam’s Museum, which weeks on end. After Independence in 1947,
displays china, silver objets the Nizam resisted joining the Indian Union.
d’art, and several fascinating However, riots broke out, and Indian Army
photographs that capture Portrait of the last Nizam action to restore order finally led to the
the legendary opulence of the (r.1911–48) state’s accession.
Nizam and his court.
For hotels and restaurants in this region see p703 and p719


664-665_EW_India.indd 664 26/04/17 11:50 am
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H Y DER ABAD  665


and 1936, and are the work of are carried in procession during VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
the British architect Vincent Esch. Muharram (see p673), and are
on display here through the Practical Information
P Badshahi Ashurkhana year, on Thursdays. Ranga Reddy district. 633 km
Patthergatti Rd. Open daily, with Exquisite, intricately (393 miles) N of Chennai. *
permission of the caretaker. patterned, enamel-tiled 6,809,970. ~ 16 km (10 miles) N
This historic building, the mosaics adorn the central of city. n AP Tourism, (1800)
Ashurkhana or “Royal House niche and the western wall, 4254 6464. ( daily. _ Muharram
of Mourning”, was built in 1595 in glowing yellow, orange (Mar/Apr), Mrigasira (Jun).
by Muhammad Quli Qutb and turquoise. The outer Transport
Shah, the fifth Qutb Shahi ruler hall with wooden colonnades k 22 km (14 miles) S of city. £ @
(see p671), as a congregation was added later.
hall for Shias during the month
of Muharram. It houses T Charminar P Falaknuma Palace
beautiful silver and gold alams See pp666–7. Near Naya Pul. Tel (040) 6629 8585.
(ceremonial standards), studded U Mecca Masjid Open daily. 8 must book at http://
with precious stones. These See p666. telanganatourism.org.in/nizam-
palaces-tour
The most opulent of the Nizams’
many palaces, Falaknuma Palace
was built in 1872. The front
façade is in Palladian style, while
the rear is a jumble of Indo-
Saracenic domes and cupolas.
The lavish interior has tooled
leather ceilings created by
Florentine craftsmen, furniture
and tapestries ordered from
France, and Italian marble.
The Nizams’ most important
guests, including King George V,
stayed here, but after the death
of the sixth Nizam here in 1911
(after a bout of drinking), the
palace fell into disuse. Acquired
by the Taj Group in 1995, it is
Splendid 17th-century tiled mosaics in the Badshahi Ashurkhana now a luxury hotel.

Hyderabad City Hussain Sagar,
Centre State Archaeological Museum The Residency,
SECUNDERABAD
Railway Station
1.5 km (1 mile)
1 Purani Haveli Airport R O A D
16 km (10 miles)
(Nizam’s Museum)
2 Salarjung Museum R O A D J H A N S I
3 Osmania General A L A U D D I N R O A D B REDDI R D
Hospital J . L . N E H R U M A H A R A N I NH-9
4 Badshahi Ashurkhana Birla
5 Charminar GOSHAMAHAL M A U L V I Imliban Bus R O A D Archaeological
Museum
6 Mecca Masjid Station J U N G
CITY COLLEGE ROAD S A L A R
Osmania
General
Hospital
Golconda A F Z A L G A N J R O A D Naya Salarjung
Pul
Fort Museum
M u s i
M I R A L A M M A N D I R O A D
High
Court
PE T LA BU RZ R OA D Badshahi
Ashurkhana
MAHBOOB SHAHI ROAD PATHERGATTI RD P A THERGA TTI
BENGALURU Purani Haveli
(Nizam’s Museum)
0 metres 500 Key
0 yards 500 LAAD BAZAAR ROAD Charminar Street-by-Street area:
see pp666–7
Mecca Masjid
Airport Falaknuma
22 km (14 miles) Palace
For keys to symbols see back flap
664-665_EW_India.indd 665 26/04/17 11:50 am

666  SOUTH INDIA

Hyderabad Street-by-Street: Charminar

In the heart of the Old City, Charminar (“Four
Towers”) is Hyderabad’s signature landmark.
It was built in 1591 by King Muhammad Quli
Qutb Shah of the Qutb Shahi dynasty (see
p670) and, according to legend, marks the Caps on sale on
spot where he first saw his lover, the beautiful the pavement
outside
Hindu dancer Bhagmati. Another story says he Mecca Masjid
built it as thanksgiving at the end of a deadly
plague epidemic. Today, Charminar is the hub Chowmahalla
of a busy commercial area, where the grand Palace
mosques and palaces of the erstwhile rulers
are surrounded by lively bazaars selling
everything from pearls and perfumes to
cabbages and computers.
LAAD BAZAAR ROAD










. Mecca Masjid SHAH ALI BANDA ROAD
Built between 1617 and
1694, this huge mosque
has bricks from Mecca
embedded in its central
arch. Several Nizams are
buried here.


Nizamia Unani Ayurvedic
Hospital was built by the
last Nizam in the 1920s for
the practice of traditional
Graeco-Arab medicine.
KOTLA ALNAH ROAD




Silver-leaf is beaten into
wafer-thin sheets in the
shops in this street, and
used to decorate sweets.

0 metres 50
0 yards 50
. Charminar
Grand arches frame
Key
Charminar’s four sides. On
Suggested route the top floor is the city’s
oldest mosque. The minarets
soar to 49 m (161 ft).
For hotels and restaurants in this region see p703 and p719


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H Y DER ABAD  667














. Laad Bazaar
Bangles, tinsel, embroidery, brocade turbans
for bridegrooms, henna, herbal potions and
everything else needed for a bride’s trousseau,
are sold in this colourful bazaar. Attar Shop
Perfume oils, sold in tiny bottles,
include a local speciality called gil,
which captures the scent of wet
Sher-e-dil Kaman
LAAD BAZAAR ROAD served as the leads to shops selling scorching summer.
Char Kaman
earth after the first rainfall of a
gorgeous brocades
entrance to the
and antique silk saris.
royal mosque
inside Charminar.
Nearby are shops
selling pearls.



MITLI KA SHER ROAD 1594 around an open area
Machhli Kaman
This is one of four
ceremonial arches, built in
where parades were held. It
is carved with the
auspicious fish symbol,
GULZAR HAUZ ROAD
denoting prosperity.
PA N J E R S H A H R O A D PAT H E R G AT T I ROAD










Naya
Pul


Jama Masjid
This simple whitewashed
mosque, built in 1597, is the
second oldest in Hyderabad.




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668  SOUTH INDIA

Exploring Hyderabad & with statues of eminent figures.
Secunderabad At the centre of the lake is a
rock, on which stands a 17-m
(56-ft) high monolithic statue
By the 19th century, Hyderabad had begun to expand of the Buddha, weighing 350
beyond the crowded confines of the old quarter, clustered tonnes. Completed in 1986, it
on both banks of the Musi river. New palaces, and the sank to the bottom of the lake
British military cantonment of Secunderabad, were now when the ferry carrying it
built on the city’s outskirts. capsized. It was finally salvaged
(intact) seven years later and
installed on the rock in 1994.
E Birla Archaeological which contain the State
Museum Archaeological Museum. P Secunderabad
Opposite Ravindra Bharathi, Saifabad. It has a large collection of Northeast of Hussain Sagar
Tel (040) 2324 1067. Open daily. ^ Buddhist art, some fine Chola along the Tank Bund Road,
Previously located in the bronzes, Roman coins, and Secunderabad was established
Asmangarh Palace, once a even an Egyptian mummy. in 1806 as a cantonment to
19th-century hunting lodge There are also replicas of murals house British troops. It has since
of the sixth Nizam, the Birla and sculptures from the Ajanta grown into a teeming city that
Archaeo logical Museum is now and Ellora caves (see pp480–85). is an extension of Hyderabad.
housed in a large com plex on Nearby is the State Legislative At its centre is the Parade
Naubat Pahad. The museum Assembly (built in 1913), a Ground, overlooked by
has a number of galleries that domed complex modelled St Andrew’s Church and
display bronze artifacts, arms on a Rajasthani palace. the imposing colonial-style
and armour, sculptures, art and Secunderabad Club. The Neo-
objects from excavation sites, Gothic Holy Trinity Church
including items found at (built in 1848) is 6 km (4 miles)
Vaddamanu that date from as north of the Parade Ground,
far back as 100 BC. The complex and has beautiful stained-glass
also houses a science museum, windows, elegant steeples
planetarium, modern art gallery on its square tower and a
and the Birla Mandir temple. British cemetery.
The walled compound of
P The Residency the Paigah Palaces, where the
Koti. Open Mon–Sat. Hyderabadi aristocracy lived, is
This elegant Palladian mansion, 2 km (1 mile) west of the Parade
now the University College for Ground, opposite Begumpet
Women, was built in 1805 by the Airport. The most imposing
third Nizam as a gift for the British Hussain Sagar, with a gigantic statue palace is Vicar Manzil, built
Resident at his court, James of the Buddha by the leading nobleman
Kirkpatrick. It was decorated in at the sixth Nizam’s court, Sir
style, with a painted ceiling, and } Hussain Sagar Vicar-ul-Umra; he had built the
mirrors and chandeliers from This huge lake, created in 1562, magnificent Falaknuma Palace
Brighton Pavilion in England. The lies off Mahatma Gandhi Road, (see p665) for himself but had
ped iment above the portico still which bisects Hyderabad and to move out when the Nizam
bears the East India Company’s Secunderabad. The 3-km (2-mile) decided to acquire it. At its
lion-and-unicorn coat of arms. stretch of road along its southern entrance is the Spanish Mosque
In the grounds is a small replica boundary is Hyderabad’s most (built in 1906), with Moorish
of the main building, which popular promenade; it is lined arches and octagonal spires.
Kirkpatrick built for his aristocratic
Hyderabadi wife, Khairunissa
Begum – a liaison that created
a great scandal at the time. There
is a small British cemetery in
a corner of the grounds.
E State Archaeological
Museum
Assembly Rd, N of Railway Station.
Tel (040) 2323 2267. Open Sat–Thu.
Closed Fri & public hols. &
Two large Norman-style
gateways mark the entrance to
the Nampally Public Gardens, The Spanish Mosque at the entrance of Vicar Manzil, Secunderabad
For hotels and restaurants in this region see p703 and p719


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ANDHR A PR ADESH AND TELANGANA  669


Hyderabadi Culture

Sultan Muhammad Quli Qutb Shah, who founded Hyderabad in 1591, was an
enlightened ruler, and a poet, scholar and patron of the arts. His kingdom was also
a flourishing centre of trade, especially in pearls, diamonds and horses. At his court
and in his bazaars, Hyderabadis rubbed shoulders with traders, scholars and artisans
from different lands. This cosmopolitan tradition, and the culture of courtly elegance
and etiquette, continued with the next dynasty – that of the Asaf Jahi Nizams, who
ruled from 1724 until 1947. As a result, Hyderabad has a uniquely composite culture,
a mélange of Hindu and Muslim customs, mingled with Arab, Persian and Turkish
influences, evident in its language, food, manners and arts.



Bidriware uses a
technique introduced
by Persians in the 16th
century, by which black
gunmetal is intricately
inlaid with silver in
a range of floral and
geometric patterns. Hyderabad’s distinctive cuisine includes dishes
of Persian and Turkish origin such as haleem
(minced meat cooked with wheat) and lukmi
(puff pastry squares filled with meat).












The Nizams’ jewels
were legendary, and
included fabulous pieces
such as this 19th-century
Falaknuma Palace (see p665), photographed towards turban ornament, set with
the end of the 19th century by the court photographer rubies from Burma and
Lala Deen Dayal, captures the opulence of the Nizam diamonds from their mines
of Hyderabad’s lifestyle. at Golconda (see pp670–71).



Muharram (see p673)
is observed by
processions of Shia
Muslims carrying
decorated tazias
through the city.
Hyderabad’s Shia
population is mostly
descended from Golconda miniatures often depict the city’s
Persians, who sophisticated, cosmopolitan culture. This
settled here several 18th-century painting shows merchants
generations ago. from many lands calling on a lady.





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670  SOUTH INDIA

2 Golconda Archaeological Museum (the
old Treasury), and through
Sprawling across a boulder-strewn plateau, Golconda the bazaar, once a famous
(“Shepherd’s Hill”) Fort was the citadel of the Qutb Shahi centre for cutting and polishing
dynasty, which ruled the Hyderabad region from 1518 to diamonds. Beyond are the
1687. The earlier 12th-century mud fort that stood here two massive arches of the
Habshi Kaman Gate, with
was transformed between 1518 and 1580 into a splendid rooms on top. These used
fortified city of grand palaces, mosques and gardens by to house a drummers’ gallery
successive Qutb Shahi rulers. Golconda Fort was also and the sultans’ Abyssinian
famous for its great hoard of diamonds, mined nearby; guards. This gate leads to
these included the celebrated Kohinoor diamond, now part the middle fortification wall.
of the British Crown jewels. The colossal ruins of Golconda To its north is the austere,
domed Jama Masjid, built in
cover an area of 40 sq km (15 sq miles). 1518 by Sultan Quli Qutb Shah,
the founder of the dynasty; he
T Golconda Fort was murdered here while at
This great fortress is protected prayer by his son Jamshed in
by three formidable lines of 1543. Beyond is the ceremonial
defence. The first, an outer arch, the Bala Hisar Gate,
fortification made of enormous decorated with various Hindu
blocks of granite, encircles the motifs, including yalis (fantastic
citadel and its entire township. leonine beasts). This is the
The middle wall surrounds entrance to the inner citadel,
the base of the hill, while the known as the Bala Hisar
innermost one follows the Complex, where the royal
contours of the highest ridge. palaces, assembly halls,
Visitors enter through the Fateh workshops and an armoury are
Darwaza (“Victory Gate”), on located. North of the Bala Hisar
the east side, which has a Hindu is a walled enclosure, begun
deity carved above its arch. in 1652, and planned as an
Huge iron spikes are studded extension to the inner fort.
into the gate to prevent it from Hathion ka Jhaad (“Elephant
being stormed by elephant Tree”), in the Naya Qila, is an
Bala Hisar Gate, entrance to the royal cavalries. From the Fateh Darwaza, extraordinary 700-year-old
complex at Golconda Fort the road curves past the baobab tree (Adansonia

Plan of Qutb Shahi Tombs Shahtam Talab
Golconda Fort

• Premamati's • Banjara Gate Hathion •
Mosque ka Jhaad

Taramati's Naya Qila
Pavilion



Bala Hisar
Gate
Mahakali Temple • • Jama Masjid

• •
Durbar Hall Habshi Kaman Gate
Rani Mahal Langar House
• • Cheruvu
Archaeological
0 metres 200 Museum
• Mecca Gate •
0 yards 200 Fateh Darwaza
Nau Mahal


For hotels and restaurants in this region see p703 and p719


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ANDHR A PR ADESH AND TELANGANA  671


These are named VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
after the two
dancers, who were Practical Information
royal fav ourites, Hyderabad district. 11 km
and said to be so (7 miles) W of Hyderabad.
lightfooted that Open daily. 8 & Son et
they could dance Lumière: (English) Mar–Oct:
all the way from the 7pm daily; Nov–Feb: 6:30pm
pavilion to the Bala daily. & Archaeological Museum
Hisar on a tightrope. & Qutb Shahi Tombs: Open Sat–
Thu. &
Standing outside
Royal bath near Rani Mahal, Golconda Fort the fort, east of the Transport
Fateh Darwaza, is @
digitata), said to have been the Nau Mahal (“Nine Palaces”),
brought to Golconda by the where the Nizams of Hyderabad
sultans’ Abyssinian guards. held court whenever they
The large-domed Grand came to Golconda.
Portico behind the Bala Hisar
Gate is a good place to test  Qutb Shahi Tombs
the remarkable acoustics that 1 km (0.6 miles) NW of Golconda Fort.
were an important feature This royal necropolis, where
of the fort’s defences. A soft seven of the nine Qutb Shahi
handclap here can be heard rulers are buried, is laid out in
in the king’s chambers at gardens with water channels,
the summit of the hill. pools and tree-lined pathways.
West of the Grand Portico The tombs, built by each king in
are the ruins of the Qutb Shahi his lifetime, display a distinct and
palaces. The most impressive eclectic architectural style – they
of these is the Rani Mahal, a have large onion domes, Persian
vaulted hall on a raised terrace, arches, Turkish columns and Elegant tomb of Muhammad Quli Qutb
decorated with lovely floral Hindu brackets and motifs. Built Shah, Golconda
arabesques. Hollows in of grey granite and plaster,
these carvings were each tomb’s dome covered the façades of all
once inlaid with is set on a petalled the tombs, still remain. Other
Golconda’s famous base, with a richly remarkable monuments are the
diamonds and other ornamented gallery Tomb of Queen Hayat Baksh
precious stones. To and small minarets Begum, the wife of Mohammed
the west of the Rani surrounding it. Quli Qutb Shah, and the mosque
Mahal, a steep flight The Tomb of behind it (both mid-17th century),
of 200 steps winds Ceiling decoration, Muhammad Quli decorated with exquisite floral
past royal baths, gra- Bala Hisar Gate Qutb Shah, the designs and calligraphy.
naries, treasuries, founder of the city At the centre of the complex
water tanks and the remains of of Hyderabad, is the most is the simple but beautifully
gardens, to the summit of the impressive. It is surrounded by a proportioned Royal Mortuary
hill. Traces of the elaborate spacious terrace, where poetry Bath. The bodies of the
water-supply system that and music festivals and deceased kings were ritually
carried water to the top of Hyderabadi food festivals are bathed before burial on the
the citadel are visible along occasionally held. Traces of inlaid, 12-sided platform;
the route. brilliant turquoise and green the surrounding 12 water tanks
Just below the summit is enamelled tiles, which once symbolize the 12 Shia Imams.
a graceful mosque built by
Sultan Ibrahim Qutb Shah,
the third sultan, and the
ancient Hindu Mahakali
Temple, built into a cave.
At the summit of the hill is
the three-storeyed Durbar Hall
(“Throne Room”), with a rooftop
pavilion. From here there are
wonderful views of the entire
fort and its surroundings, which
include two pretty structures
on hillocks – Taramati Baradari
and Premamati’s Mosque. Panoramic view of Golconda Fort




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672  SOUTH INDIA

3 Pochampalli gateways at the cardinal points.
At its geometric centre, four
Nalgonda district. 41 km (26 miles)
E of Hyderabad. @ ( daily. ornate toranas (gateways),
marking the sacred precinct, are
Andhra Pradesh’s ikat belt, where the only remains of a great Shiva
intricate tie-and-dye textiles temple that once stood here.
are woven, borders Hyderabad. The toranas themselves are
Pochampalli, the name by which remarkable for their size
most of the state’s ikat fabric is and beauty.
known, is the largest centre for A short distance to the west is
this craft. The technique in its the Khush Mahal, an audience
present form was first introduced hall that was built by Muslim
in the 19th century in Chirala, invaders in the 14th century.
in Guntur district, from where Massive angled walls with slit
the fabric was exported to Africa. windows define a lofty interior
Pochampalli’s main street with vaulted arches, though the
is lined with busy workshops Khush Mahal, the audience hall at roof is quite damaged. It is
where the various stages of Warangal Fort remarkably similar to the Hindola
production take place. Ikat Mahal in Mandu (see p251).
weavers first tie the yarn according 4 Warangal
to the pattern and then dye Warangal district. 148 km (92 miles) Environs
them in great vats. A special NE of Hyderabad. £ @ n APTDC, Hanamkonda, the site of the
oil-based technique is used to Kazipet, (0870) 245 9201. first Kakatiya capital before it
restrict the dye to those parts moved to Warangal, is 3 km
of the yarn that need to be A major dhurrie-weaving centre (2 miles) northwest of Warangal.
coloured. The dyed yarn is then today, Warangal was described The magnificent Thousand-
dried in the sun and finally by the 13th-century Venetian Pillared Temple here, dedicated
woven on large hand-operated traveller, Marco Polo, as one of to Shiva, was erected in 1163
looms, to produce a cloth called the principal cities of South India. by Rudradeva (r.1158–95),
telia rumal (see p417). The state It was the capital of the Hindu the first great Kakatiya king.
cooperative warehouses, as well Kakatiya kings, who dominated This grey-green basalt temple,
as several shops, sell a wide this region until the beginning known as the trikuta or triple
range of beautiful silk saris of the 14th century. shrine, consists of a trio of shrines
and fabrics. An ancient fort at the edge dedicated to Shiva, Vishnu and
of the modern town is all that Surya. They are connected to
Environs remains of this once-grand city. a mandapa, now roofless, by a
The neighbouring village of Built during the reign of the platform with a magnificently
Choutuppal, 20 km (16 miles) Kakatiya queen Rudramadevi polished Nandi bull. The columns
southeast of Pochampalli, (r.1262–89), its striking circular have sharply cut, lathe-turned
produces mainly cotton ikat plan, with three concentric rings shafts. A ceiling panel carved
fabrics. Narayanpur, another of walls, is still intact. The outer with an image of Nataraja
major weaving centre, is about two rings, both of mud, define a (see p570) covers the central bay.
36 km (22 miles) further down circle 1.2 km (1 mile) in diameter. The temple’s gardens contain
the Vijaywada Highway, again The innermost ring is made of several small linga shrines, and
to the southeast. stone, with four massive an ancient well.


















Magnificent Thousand-Pillared Temple at Hanamkonda, near Warangal
For hotels and restaurants in this region see p703 and p719


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ANDHR A PR ADESH AND TELANGANA  673


supported by angled struts,
many of which are fashioned Festivals of
as three-dimensional maidens Andhra Pradesh
with graceful bodies in Ugadi (Mar). Homes are
dancing poses. Other similar spring-cleaned and special
but smaller relief figures, as food is prepared to celebrate
well as scenes from the epics, the Telugu New Year.
are seen in the central ceiling Muharram (Apr), Hyderabad.
panel within the mandapa. Shia Muslims commemorate
The exterior of the sanctuary, the martyrdom of the Prophet’s
in contrast, is devoid of any grandson, Hussain, with
carvings. The restrained 40 days of mourning. On the
ornamentation and simple final day, colourful tazias
modelling are typical of the (replicas of his tomb) are
elegance of Kakatiya art. carried in procession
The 13th-century Ramappa Temple A stone pavilion sheltering a through the Old City.
at Palampet Nandi, which is smaller in size
than the one at Hanamkonda,
5 Palampet but as exquisitely carved,
stands in front of the temple.
Warangal district. 213 km (132 miles)
NE of Hyderabad. @ South of the Ramappa
Temple is Ramappa Cheruvu,
This village is dominated by a vast artificial lake created by
the Ramappa Temple, the Recherla Rudra, and surrounded
best- preserved example by picturesque hills.
of Kakatiya architecture.
Dedicated to Shiva, it was Environs
built in 1213 by Recherla More Kakatiya temples
Rudra, a general of the can be seen at Gana
ruler Ganapatideva Puram, a little village 13 Batkamma Festival, Warangal
(r.1199– 1262). Like the km (8 miles) northwest
temple at Hanamkonda, of Palampet. The largest Mrigasira (Jun/Jul),
it too has a spacious consists of a pair of Shiva Hyderabad. On this day a
mandapa with beau- shrines, both with unique cure for asthma is
tifully sculpted black mandapas and balcony administered to patients
basalt columns. This seats. The main shrine from all over India, who
mandapa, which is has delightful female swallow live a small fresh-
cruciform in plan, also dvarapalas (door keepers), water fish called maral.
has porches with balcony dancing maidens and Many sufferers claim
seats on three sides. The finely carved brackets. miraculous cures.
eaves sheltering the Carving at Other minor shrines dot Batkamma (Sep/Oct),
peripheral columns are Gana Puram the walled compound. Warangal. This festival
is held in honour of the
goddess of wealth, Lakshmi.
Traditional Andhra Dhurries Celebrations begin just
Although lustrous silk and wool carpets from Persia and Turkey before Dussehra (see p39),
embellished the palaces of the Nizams of Hyderabad, Andhra and continue for nine days.
Pradesh has long had a local tradition of carpet weaving in Flowers are arranged over
Warangal and Eluru. Commonly known as dhurries, the rugs a turmeric representation
are made in both cotton and wool, in a variety of designs and of the goddess and carried
colours. The cotton dhurries from Warangal are usually woven on a bamboo tray to a lake
into geometric patterns, while the woollen carpets of Eluru (274 or river, where the women
km/170 miles southeast of Warangal) sport floral designs that hint dance in a circle around
at a Western influence. The the floral offering before
more expensive shatranjis immersing it in the water.
(with a chessboard-like Festival of Andhra
pattern) are made with Pradesh (Nov), Hyderabad.
heavy cotton thread and This ten-day cultural festival
produced on horizontal marks the anniversary of
looms. The kalamkari Andhra Pradesh’s statehood.
craftsmen of Sri Kalahasti Celebrations include perfor-
(see p684) make rugs in mances from the state’s best
traditional designs on a jute musicians and dancers.
A dhurrie with geometric patterns base, using vegetable dyes.





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674  SOUTH INDIA


has several lookout points for
a panoramic view of the city
and harbour. The twin town of
Waltair, once a health resort
for British officers, is north of
the bay. Andhra University, one
of the largest campuses in the
state, is also situated here,
along with a number of pretty
19th-century churches.

Environs
Simhachalam, the “Lion’s Hill”
Temple, dedicated to Lord Varaha
Narasimha, an incarnation of
Vishnu (see p683), stands at the
Visakhapatnam harbour on the Bay of Bengal summit of the thickly forested
Ratnagiri Hill, 16 km (10 miles)
6 Visakhapatnam Dargah Konda, has a shrine northwest of Visakha patnam.
dedicated to a Muslim A flight of steps leads to the
Visakhapatnam district. 354 km
(220 miles) NE of Vijayawada. saint, Ishaque Madina. northern gateway, an elaborately
* 3,591,811. ~ 12 km (7 miles) Along the southern coastline decorated gopura that is the
W of town centre, then bus or taxi. is Dolphin’s Nose, a 358-m main entrance to the temple.
£ @ n APTDC, RTC Complex, (1,175-ft) long rocky outcrop Inside the compound is a
(0891) 278 8820. ( daily. that rises 175 m (574 ft) above tall dvajast hambha (flagpole).
the sea. On it stands Similar in style to
India’s second-busiest port a lighthouse with Konark’s Sun Temple
after Mumbai, Visakhapatnam, a beam that can (see pp314–15),
also known as Vizag, is rapidly be seen 64 km the temple was
becoming the largest shipyard (40 miles) out at sea. constructed in
in the country. It is an important Vestiges of the city’s the 9th or 10th
industrial town and naval base colonial past are century, and was
as well. The town makes a visible here in an old Dutch heraldry, extensively rebuilt
convenient point from which Protestant church, a Bheemunipatnam during the 13th
to visit some of the beautiful fort, barracks and an century. It is
beaches along the Bay of arsenal, all dating to the believed that the presiding
Bengal and the many pic- 18th century. deity was originally Shiva,
turesque temple towns of the Idyllic beaches, set on the but he was replaced by this
northern coastal districts of fringes of the Eastern Ghats incarnation of Vishnu after
Andhra Pradesh. and bounded by forested hills the reformer-saint, Ramanuja
Named after Visakha, and rocky cliffs, include the (see p526), visited the site in the
the Hindu God of Valour, Visak- Ramakrishna Mission Beach, 11th century.
hapatnam was once part of the now being developed as Bheemunipatnam is a 38-km
Mauryan emperor Ashoka’s vast a tourist resort by Andhra (24-mile) drive northeast from
empire (see p46). Later, it was Pradesh Tourism, Rishikonda Visakhapatnam, along one of the
ruled by the Andhra kings of Beach and Lawson’s Bay. longest stretches of beach road
Vengi, and other South Indian Towards the north of the in the country. This quiet fishing
dynasties, including the Pallavas, town, beyond Lawson’s Bay, is village, situated at the mouth of
Cholas and Gangas. In the Kailasagiri, a forested hill that the Gosthani river, was a Dutch
15th century, it became part
of the Vijayanagar Empire
(see pp534–5). It finally came
into British hands in the 17th
century, after which it was
developed into a major port.
Looming above the port is
a hilly ridge with three crests,
each with a religious shrine.
On the southernmost one,
Venkateshvara Konda, is a
temple dedicated to Balaji
(Krishna); in the middle is
Ross Hill, with a mid-19th-
century church; the third, Obelisk-shaped Dutch tombs at Bheemunipatnam
For hotels and restaurants in this region see p703 and p719


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ANDHR A PR ADESH AND TELANGANA  675

9 Srikakulam
settlement in the early 17th the state tourism department
century. Bimlipatam, as it was as a major attraction for visitors. District
then known (locally referred to Some smaller stalagmites are 108 km (67 miles) NE from
as Bhimli), was the site of Maratha worshipped as lingas, with Visakhapatnam to Srikakulam. @
attacks and Anglo-Dutch wars Nandi bulls placed in front of
throughout the 17th and 18th them. The local people believe The headquarters of Andhra
centuries. Its Dutch legacy can that the water trickling from Pradesh’s northernmost district,
be seen in some of the old the roof of the caves is from Srikakulam is located on the
colonnaded houses, the ruined a mountain spring, which banks of the Swarnamukhi river.
fort, and the Dutch cemetery, is the source of the On the outskirts
which has unusual, obelisk- Gosthani river. of the town, at
shaped tombstones. Arasavalli, is a sun
Environs temple, ingeniously
About 22 km constructed at such
(14 miles) northeast an angle that the
of Borra is the Araku sun’s rays fall directly
Valley, home on the deity’s
of several tribal feet twice a year.
communities, the The Sri Kurmanadha
state’s original Temple at Srikurman,
inhabitants. The road 13 km (8 miles) east
to Araku goes past Tribal women from of Srikakulam, is
forests and coffee the Araku Valley dedicated to Kurma,
plantations, and the the tortoise incarnation
valley, with its woods, of Vishnu. It was built by the
waterfalls and bracing Chalukya kings in the 10th
climate, offers pleasant walks. century but was substantially
rebuilt by the Cholas in the 12th
and 13th centuries. The colonnade
8 Ramatirtham around the main shrine has
19th century murals of Krishna
Visakhapatnam district. 72 km (45
miles) NE of Visakhapatnam. @ and Vishnu.
Mukhalingam, 48 km
Ruins from the Ikshvaku period (30 miles) north of Srikakulam,
A fascinating stalactite formation inside the (3rd to 4th centuries AD), when was the first capital of the
Borra Caves Buddhism flou rished in this area, Eastern Ganga kings, before
can be seen at Ramatirtham. they moved to Odisha (see p48).
7 Borra Caves Just outside the village is a group The temples here date to their
of structures on a hill known as reign, between the 9th and
Visakhapatnam district. 90 km
(56 miles) NW of Visakhapatnam. @ Gurubhaktakonda (“Hill of the 13th centuries. The best
Open daily. & Devoted Disciple”). On a narrow preserved is the 9th-century
rocky ledge about 165 m (541 ft) Madhukeshvara Temple, with
Close to the northern border above the surrounding plains are magnificent sculptures of
of Visakhapatnam district are the ruins of a stupa, monasteries, Shiva and friezes of scenes
these magnificent limestone and prayer halls enclosing from the Krishna legend. The
caves, discovered in 1807 by smaller stupas. Close by, on 10th-century Someshvara
William King of the Geological another hill called Durgakonda, Temple, at the entrance to the
Survey of India. The extensive is a similar set of ruins, along town, has beautiful statues
underground chambers, lined with carvings of Jain tirthankaras of river goddesses and
by stalactites and stalagmites, (see p400) that date from the other deities, flanking the
are now being developed by 8th and 9th centuries. main doorway.











Mural showing Krishna surrounded by gopis, at Sri Kurmanadha Temple in Srikakulam district




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676  SOUTH INDIA





















Ripening fields of paddy with the Eastern Ghats in the background, near Rajahmundry
0 East Godavari through the hilly Eastern Ghats, q Machilipatnam
District offers views of spec tacular Krishna district. 340 km (211 miles)
scenery, with a series of lakes
398 km (247 miles) E of Hyderabad that many find reminiscent of SE of Hyderabad. £ @ ( daily.
to Rajahmundry. ~ 10 km Italy and Scotland. One of the first European
(6 miles) from Rajahmundry. Ryali, 37 km (23 miles) south settlements on India’s eastern
£ Rajahmundry. @
of Rajahmundry, has a Chalukya coast, Machilipatnam (“City of
The Godavari, one of South temple dedicated to Vishnu. Fish”) was a thriving port and
India’s most sacred rivers, swells It houses a stone image of textile centre in the 17th and
to a wide torrent (at places 6 km/ Goddess Ganga (see p167), 18th centuries. It was also the
4 miles across), just north of from which flows a continuous headquarters of the English
Rajahmundry town. Lush paddy trickle of water. East India Company on the
fields and sugarcane plantations Draksharamam, located Coromandel Coast. The
characterize the countryside. 46 km (29 miles) southeast of French and the Dutch briefly
Rajahmundry, the largest Rajahmundry, is famed for its established themselves here as
town in East Godavari district, 10th-century Bhimeswara well. The Dutch cemetery, with
is best known for the many Swamy Temple, which combines its ornate tombstones, are all
Chalukya temples in its vicinity, the Chalukya and Chola styles of that remain from that period.
and for the 2,743-m (8,999-ft) architecture, and houses a 5-m Machilipatnam was hit by a
long bridge that spans the (16-ft) high linga. The Godavari giant tidal wave in 1864, which
river. The lookout points on is said to have been split into drowned more than 30,000
Dowleswaram Dam (built 1848– seven streams by the Saptarishis people. It was caused by a
52), 10 km (6 miles) downstream, (seven great sages) of Hindu volcanic eruption at Mount
offer spectacular views of the mythology and three of these Krakatoa, some 5,000 km (3,107
river. Every 12 years, the Dakshina streams are believed to have miles) away. After that it lost
Pushkaram festival – the Kumbh gone underground here. Close its importance as a port, but
Mela (see p215) of the South – to the town is an old Dutch it remains famous for its
takes place here. cemetery, locally known as kalamkari textiles (see p684).
Peddapuram, famous for its Ollandu Dibba (“Holland
fine handwoven silk and cotton, Mound”), with gravestones dated
is 43 km (27 miles) northeast between 1675 and 1728, some
of Rajahmundry, on the road with very elaborate designs.
to Visakhapatnam. Antarvedi, on the banks of the
Annavaram, 81 km (50 miles) Vashishta river, a branch of the
to the northeast of Rajahmundry, Godavari, is 112 km (70 miles)
is the site of the Satyanarayana south of Rajahmundry. It is best
Temple, on Ratnagiri Hill. It is reached by boat from Narsapur
renowned for its 4-m (13 ft)-high on the south bank. The Sri Laxmi
statue of the Hindu Trinity, and Narasimha Swamy Temple (built
its ancient sundial. in 1823), with its brightly painted
The Godavari Gorge begins tower, stands on the riverbank
80 km (50 miles) north of and is usually thronged with
Rajahmundry. A drive or boat pilgrims, who come for a dip in A kalamkari blockprinter at work
ride along the Gorge, which cuts the holy river. in Machilipatnam
For hotels and restaurants in this region see p703 and p719


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Trade Textiles: Tree of Life

Between the 17th and 18th centuries, the Coromandel Coast, with Machilipatnam
as its trade centre and port, was one of the main producers and exporters of cotton
textiles to Western Europe. At first just items of barter, they soon became fashionable
in Europe, increasing the demand for the region’s dye-painted cotton kalamkari
(see p684) fabric, known in Europe as chintz. Special designs were commissioned,
among them the Tree of Life, which absorbed techniques and aesthetics from
India, Persia, China and Europe. Valued for their richness of colour and design,
they were widely used as hangings and spreads in European homes.
Tree of Life
The Tree of Life was a very popular motif in
textiles from the Coromandel Coast. Based
on ancient nature myths that deified plants
and trees, and inspired largely by Persian
miniatures, its central flowering tree, rising
from a rocky mound, linked earth to heaven
and symbolized creation.












Birds, real and
mythical, inhabit the
thickly foliated upper
branches of the tree.
Standing on the
mound are two
stylized peacocks,
holding snakes in
their beaks.












Aquatic creatures, such as
fish and tortoise, are depicted A bamboo thicket,
to show marine life in the composed as a single Tree
holy waters below the Sacred of Life, rises from the Sacred
Mound. Shades of indigo Mound. The painted and
have been used to create printed flowers and
the effect of rippling waves feathery leaves suggest
and flowing water. nature’s exuberance.





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Prakasam Barrage, built over the Krishna river at Vijayawada
w Vijayawada upstream, reached by launch e Kondapalli
from the riverbank.
Krishna district. 267 km (166 miles) Krishna district. 20 km (12 miles)
SE of Hyderabad. * 1,048,240. £ @ NW of Vijayawada. @
n APTDC, (0866) 257 1393. ( daily. E Victoria Museum
Open Sat–Thu. Extra charges This pretty village, famous for
The second-largest city in the for photography. its painted wooden toys, is
state, Vijayawada is a busy dominated by the 8th-century
commercial town with one Environs Hill Fort built by the Eastern
of the largest railway junctions Mogalrajapuram, 3 km (2 miles) Chalukya dynasty. Encircled by
in the country. In a picturesque east of Vijayawada, and Undavalli, ramparts and towers, the fort
spot on the northern bank 4 km (2 miles) to the south, on was an important stronghold
of the Krishna river, it is the other side of the river, are in the Krishna Valley under the
bounded on three sides by famous for their rock-cut temples Qutb Shahis of Hyderabad
the Indrakiladri Hills. The area (5th–7th centuries). (see p670), in the 16th century.
around the river banks is a Mangalgiri, 12 km (7 miles) At the crest of the hill, a steep
pleasant contrast to the noisy, south of Vijayawada, is a textile climb up, is the ruined Tanisha
crowded town. village, specializing in fine cotton Mahal palace. The path
Within the city limits, on saris and striped and checked descends past a deep tank,
a low hill to the east, is the fabrics. It also has the impressive the granary and the armoury,
Kanaka Durga Temple, 14th-century Lakshmi Narasimha to the Golconda Gate,
dedicated to the goddess Temple complex, with a small which faces northwest
Lakshmi. The Victoria Museum, Garuda shrine in front of it. towards Hyderabad.
on Bunder Road, houses a fine
collection of Buddhist and
Hindu relics from the 2nd Kondapalli Toys
and 3rd centuries. Especially The craft of toy-making has been passed down for many
impressive are the white generations in Kondapalli. In the hands of the deft
limestone Standing Buddha artisans, the light yet strong and
from the nearby Buddhist site flexible poniki wood is fashioned
of Alluru (3rd or 4th century), into distinctive figures of
and the powerful depiction gods and goddesses, and fruits
of Durga slaying the buffalo and vegetables, which adorn
demon Mahisa (2nd century). many Andhra homes during
On the outskirts of town is the festivals. Each part of the toy
1-km (0.6-mile) long Prakasam Lord Krishna is whittled into shape, and
Barrage, first built in 1855 and then glued together using
extensively reconstructed in a special tamarind-seed glue. The
1955. It irrigates nearly 1.2 million piece is then covered with lime glue,
ha (3 million acres) of land, which gives it a smooth finish. It is
turning the Krishna Delta into allowed to dry before being brightly
the richest granary in Andhra painted in vivid blues, greens, reds A toy being painted in
Pradesh. Bhavani Island, a and yellows, with touches of black. bright colours
scenic picnic spot, is just
For hotels and restaurants in this region see p703 and p719


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fragments discovered in 1980.
A part of the stupa’s railing,
decorated with scenes from the
Buddha’s life, is reconstructed in
the courtyard. Other exhibits
include an instructive model
of the original monument and
superb sculptures of the Bodhi
Tree, under which the Buddha
is said to have meditated.
Maha Chaitya at Amravati, now only a low earthen mound
E Archaeological Museum
r Amravati the stupa was abandoned, Open Sat–Thu. Extra charges
and remained so until a British for photography.
Guntur district. 37 km (23 miles) W of
Vijayawada. @ from Guntur. 4 from official, Colonel Colin Mackenzie,
Hotel Krishnaveni, Vijayawada. 8 run began excavating the site in Environs
by AP Tourism, Vijayawada. n Haritha 1796. Unfortunately, by the time Overlooking the Krishna river,
Hotel, (08643) 224 616. a thorough investigation of the just north of the museum, is
ruins began in the mid-19th the Amaralingeswara Swamy
Renowned for its Maha Chaitya, century, most of the limestone Temple. Built during the 10th
or “Great Stupa”, Amravati, the portions had been pillaged, and 11th centuries, it was
capital of Andhra Pradesh, was many fine pieces having renovated in the 18th century by
once the most impressive of the been shipped to Britain. a local chief, whose statue stands
many Buddhist religious settle- Nevertheless, a great deal in the outer hall. The sanctuary
ments along the Krishna Valley. of fine sculpture remains at the and the open-columned hall
Today, nothing remains of this site, and is on display at the are in a walled compound. A
stupa except a low earthen Archaeological Museum, basement, reached by a flight of
mound, but in its day it was next to the Maha Chaitya. Unlike stairs, is believed to conceal the
reputed to be the largest and the stupa at Sanchi (see pp248–9), remains of a stupa, suggested
most elaborate stupa in South where the Buddha is represented by the pillar-shaped linga in the
India. It was built by the through symbols such as the sanctuary, which was probably
Satavahanas, the great Andhra Bodhi Tree or footprints, the part of the stupa dome.
dynasty, in the 3rd and 2nd Amravati sculptures show him
centuries BC (see p47). in human form. The museum’s
The Maha Chaitya was display includes large Standing
enlarged several times by the Buddha images, some
Ikshvaku kings, who succeeded more than 2 m (7 ft) high,
the Satavahanas, reaching its with natural poses and
final form between the 3rd and elegantly fluted robes that
4th centuries AD. Clad in the suggest the influence of
local white limestone, the Maha late Roman classical art.
Chaitya was an earthen hemi- The second gallery has
spherical mound about 45 m a remarkable life-sized Ceremonial bull,
(148 ft) in diameter and more ceremonial bull, Amravati
than 30 m (98 ft) in height, reconstructed from Museum
including its supporting drum
and capping finial. It was
surrounded by a 6-m (20-ft) The Amravati Sculptures
high railing, and lofty entrance The surviving limestone carvings from the
gate ways at the cardinal points, Maha Chaitya are now divided bet ween
all exuberantly carved. the Archaeological Museum at Amravati, the
In the 5th century, when South Government Museum in Chennai (see pp568–
India saw a revival of Hinduism, 9) and the British Museum in London. These
reliefs tes tify to the vitality of early Buddhist
art traditions in South India. Posts and railings
show ornate lotus medallions, friezes of
garlands carried by dwarfs, and Jataka Tales
(see p484), illustrated with vivid scenes of
crowds, horse riders and courtiers. Drum
panels are adorned with pots filled with
lotuses, model stupas with serpents wrapped
around the drums, and flying celestials above Limestone carving,
Amravati limestone carving with a scene the umbrella-like finials. Amravati Museum
from the Jataka Tales




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680  SOUTH INDIA

t Nagarjunakonda
Guntur district. 189 km (117 miles)
W of Vijayawada. £ Macherla,
22 km (14 miles) SE of site, then
bus to Vijayapuri. @ 4 daily from
Vijayapuri, except Fri. n Vijay Vihar,
(08680) 277 362. 8 from Hyderabad.
Nagarjunakonda or “Nagarjuna’s
Hill”, on the banks of the Krishna
river, was named after Nagarjuna
Acha rya, the 2nd-century
Buddhist theologian and founder
of an influential school of philo- Hemispherical stupa, Bodhishri Chaitya, Nagarjunakonda
sophy. Once a sophisticated
Buddhist settlement, with large settlements once stood, have (90 ft), was one of the largest
monasteries and stupas, wide been submerged by the waters at Nagarjunakonda. Its internal
roads and public baths, it was of the Nagarjuna Sagar lake. rubble walls radiate outwards
established in the 3rd and 4th Only the top of the hill, where like the spokes of a wheel, and
centuries, when the area the rescued remains have been are filled with earth. Just ahead of
flourished under the rule of reassembled, juts out like an it is the Swastika Chaitya, named
the powerful Ikshvaku kings. island. The island is accessible after the Indian swastika emblem
Thereafter, Nagarjunakonda by launches, which leave formed by its rubble walls.
was ruled by a succession of regularly from the small village Near the citadel walls is a
dynasties, culminating with the of Vijayapuri, on the banks of stone megalith, some 2,000
Vijayanagar rulers, who built a the lake. years old. It conceals a simple
fort around the Buddhist ruins. On the island, the path from burial chamber that once
When the Vijayanagar Empire the jetty leads first to the Simha contained four skulls.
declined, the area was abandoned. Vihara 4. This comprises To its east is the
It was rediscovered only between a stupa built on a high Archaeological
1954 and 1961. platform with a pair of Museum, which
In the early 1960s, when the chaitya grihas (prayer houses superb
huge Nagarjuna Sagar Dam was halls) adjoining it. Buddhist sculptures
being constructed across the While one of the from the ruins of
Krishna, a number of these chaitya grihas houses Nagarjunakonda. They
rediscovered ancient Buddhist a second stupa, the include limestone
settlements were threatened other enshrines a Detail of a carving, reliefs and panels
with submersion. However, the monumental sculpture Nagarjunakonda carved with seated
Archaeological Survey of India of the Standing Buddhas, flying
salvaged and reconstructed Buddha. The Bodhishri Chaitya, celestial beings and miniature
many of them, brick by brick, on opposite it, has a raised stupa replicas of stupas. Friezes from
top of the hill where the citadel contained within a semicircular- the railings that surrounded
once used to stand. ended brick structure. To its west the stupas depict scenes from
Today, most of the hill, and the is the Maha Chaitya stupa, the Buddha’s life. Among the
secluded valley in which these which, with a diameter of 27.5 m free-standing sculptures are
dignified Buddha figures
dressed in elegant robes.
E Archaeological Museum
Open Sat–Thu. & 8
Environs
More structures from the
Ikshvaku period are reassem-
bled at a site 15 km (9 miles)
south of Vijayapuri. These
include a Stadium, with tiered
galleries around a central court,
possibly used for musical and
theatrical performances and
sporting events. The adjacent
Monastic Complex has shrines
and chaitya grihas as well as a
A giant-sized statue of the Standing Buddha in Nagarjunakonda refectory, store and baths.
For hotels and restaurants in this region see p703 and p719


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y Srisailam &
Krishna Gorge
Kurnool district. 213 km (132 miles)
S of Hyderabad. @ daily from
Hyderabad. n Haritha Hotel, APTDC,
(08643) 224 616; Punnami Hotel,
Srisailam, (08524) 288 888.
_ Shivaratri (Feb/Mar).
The pretty temple town of
Srisailam, situated in the thickly
wooded Nallamalai Hills,
overlooking the deep Krishna
Gorge, is a popular pilgrimage
spot. Dominating the town Sangameshvara Temple outside the village of Alampur
is the Mallikarjuna Swamy
Temple, whose white, tiered u Alampur has outstanding sculptures,
gopuras, standing atop fortress- Mahboobnagar district. 215 km including a comp lete set of
like walls, are visible from a (134 miles) S of Hyderabad. £ @ dikpalas (guardian figures) in
great distance. The temple, the corner niches, and icons
which houses one of the 12 This village, on the northern of Shiva in various forms. Some
jyotirlingas (naturally formed bank of the Tungabhadra river, columns in the interior have
lingas said to contain the light is the site of the earliest Hindu been elaborately carved, such
of Shiva), is believed to date to temples in Andhra Pradesh. as those in the Padmabrahma
pre-Vedic times, though the Constructed by the Chalukyas of Temple. The pillars here have
present structure was built in Badami (see pp540–41) in the 7th seated lions at the base, fluted
the 15th century. The carvings and 8th centuries, the nine red shafts and ribbed pot-shaped
on the walls represent Shiva sandstone shrines are collectively capitals. The Balabrahma
in his many forms. A pillared known as the Navabrahma Temple is the only one of the
hallway leads to the inner Temples, and are group still in use.
shrine, guarded by a monolithic dedicated to Shiva. The Archaeological
Nandi bull. The layout conforms to Museum, next to the
Further up the hill is the a standard scheme – complex, has a fine
Hatakesvara Temple, said to be each temple faces east, collection of early
the spot where the philosopher- has an inner sanctum, a Chalukya sculptures.
saint Adi Shankaracharya pillared mandapa, and Just outside the village
(see p652) wrote one of his is surrounded by a is the reconstructed
celebrated treatises. A small passage. The tower Sangameshvara
Shiva temple at the summit, over the inner sanctum, Temple, removed
Sikharam, offers breathtaking capped by an from a site that
views of the valley. amalaka (circular Detail from the was submerged by
The dammed waters of the ribbed stone), shows Padmabrahma Temple the damming of
Krishna power a huge hydro- the distinct influence the Krishna, 15 km
electric project at Srisailam. of North Indian temple (9 miles) to the north. Standing
When the waters are high architecture (see p24). on a high terrace, it is similar to
enough, a luxury launch, the The later temples in the group the Navabrahma group, except
Zaria, ferries visitors from the have porches with perforated that the sculptural details
reservoir at Nagarjuna Sagar stone screens on three sides have eroded.
to Srisailam Dam. For almost of the passageways, as in the Just to the southwest of the
half the distance between the Svargabrahma Temple, built Navabrahma Temple complex
reservoir and Srisailam Dam, in AD 689. This beautiful temple are the Papanashanam Temples
the river passes through a thick (9th–10th centuries). These
forest reserve, habitat of the temples have imposing multi-
tiger, panther and hyena. The tiered pyramidal roofs but little
river, which runs very deep at external decoration, though the
Srisailam, is known here as the interior columns are ornately
Patal Ganga (“Underground carved. One of the temples
Ganges”) – according to legend, has a fine ceiling panel of
it springs from an underground Vishnu’s incarnations (see p683),
tributary of the Ganges. On and another has a powerful
the ghats close to the dam, image of Durga.
boatmen offer enchanting
rides on their basin-shaped Naga (snake deity) from the Archaeological E Archaeological Museum
reed and bamboo boats. Museum, Alampur Open Sat–Thu. &




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682  SOUTH INDIA


sheds vanity as well. This
offering is usually made
after the fulfilment of a wish.
The hair-offerings are later
exported to the United States
and Japan where they are
made into wigs.
Most pilgrims stop at the
small Ganesha shrine in the
foothills, and at the Govinda­
rajaswamy Temple in Tirupati
town, before driving up the
hill to the Tirumala shrine.
Tirupati, with the gold-gilded vimana of the temple This temple, which dates
to the 16th–17th century,
i Tirupati in the world. He is flanked is dedicated to both Krishna
by his consorts, Sridevi and and Vishnu. Built by the
Chittoor district. 558 km (347 miles) S
of Hyderabad. * 228,202. ~ 12 km Bhudevi. The entrance portico Nayakas, the successors to
(7 miles) S of the city centre, then taxi. has superb life-size images the Vijayanagar rulers, it is
£ @ n Andhra Pradesh Tourism, of the Vijayanagara king and approached through a
Sridevi Complex (0877) 228 9120. queens (see pp534–7), who massive, grey outer gopura
_ Brahmotsavam (Sep/Oct). worshipped Venkateshvara that dominates Tirupati’s
as their protective deity. skyline, and is carved with
The most popular destination The entire complex is built scenes from the Ramayana
for Hindu pilgrims in India, to accommodate the huge (see p31). An exquisite pavilion
Tirupati is the site of the influx of pilgrims, who come in the inner courtyard has
Shri Venkateshvara Temple, to seek favours from Lord carved granite pillars, an ornate
situated in the Tirumala Hills, Venkateshvara. This is one of wooden roof, and impressive
700 m (2,297 ft) above the the few temples in South sculptures of crouching lions.
town. The seven “sacred India where non- The temple has a magnificent
hills” of Tirumala are Hindus are allowed image of the reclining Vishnu,
believed to symbolize into the inner called Ranganatha, coated
the seven-headed sanctum. Devotees with bronze armour. A short
serpent god Adisesha, wait patiently in long distance north of the temple
on whose coils Vishnu queues for a special is the Venkateshvara Museum
sleeps. The temple darshan, and make of Temple Arts, with temple
dates to the 9th offerings of money, models, photographs and
century, although gold and jewellery ritual objects.
it has been expanded that net the temple
and renovated an annual income  Shri Venkateshvara Temple
numerous times Lord Venkateshvara, the of nearly 1.5 billion Open daily. Darshan: 6–11am. Extra
from the 15th presiding deity at Tirupati rupees. The charges to join the shorter queue
century onwards. Tirumala Tirupati for special darshan of the deity.
The aura that surrounds Lord Deva sthanam (TTD), which
Venkateshvara (a form of Lord runs the temple, employs a
Vishnu, who is also known as staff of 6,000 to see to the
Balaji) as the “Bestower of pilgrims’ needs and maintain
Boons” has made his temple the temple premises.
the most visited and the richest The temple complex includes
in India. It eclipses Jerusalem a ritual bathing tank, and a
and Rome in the number of small Art Museum with images
pilgrims it attracts – around of deities, musical instruments
25,000 a day, and up to 100,000 and votive objects. Surrounding
on festival days. The gold vimana it are green valleys and the
and flagpole, and the gold- Akash Ganga waterfall, which
plated doorway into the inner is the source of the holy water
sanctum, proclaim the temple’s used for bathing the deity.
wealth. The jet-black stone A unique feature at Tirupati
image, 2-m (7-ft) high, stands is that many devotees offer
on a lotus and is adorned with their hair to the deity, and there
rubies, diamonds and gold. The are separate enclosures for
deity also wears a diamond this purpose. It is believed that
crown, believed to be the since hair enhances a person’s Main gateway to the Govindarajaswamy
single most precious ornament appearance, shaving it off Temple, Tirupati
For hotels and restaurants in this region see p703 and p719


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Avatars of Vishnu

Vishnu, the second god in the Hindu Trinity, personifies the preserving power
of nature. Seen as the most “human” of the gods and the redeemer of humanity,
he is said to have appeared on Earth in several avatars or incarnations, whenever
the cosmic order was disturbed. From the 2nd century, a new devotional worship
of Vishnu’s incarnation as Krishna developed in South India, and, by AD 1000,
Vaishnavism had become widespread. At his most famous temple, in Tiru pati,
Vishnu is worshipped as Venkateshvara, the God who Fulfils Desires. Lakshmi,
the Goddess of Wealth, is his consort.
Main image
The Ten Incarnations of Vishnu
Vishnu descends to earth periodically,
in order to redress the balance
between good and evil. He is said to
have ten main avatars, of which nine
have already appeared; the tenth is
yet to come. Krishna, the
eight avatar
Kavad is a portable wooden shrine, who came
which shows Vishnu in his Krishna to free the
world from
avatar, protected by the serpent oppression.
Adi sesha, and with his brother Balrama.
Matsya, the fish and first avatar, rescued Manu Rama, the seventh avatar, is Buddha, is the
(the first man) and the Vedas from a flood. the embodiment of goodness. ninth avatar
(see p225).











Kurma, the tortoise and second
avatar, churned the ocean to Krishna
produce amrita, the divine nectar.
Parasurama, the sixth
Vamana, the dwarf avatar, came to subdue
priest and the fifth the Kshatriyas who
avatar, saved the world were overpowering
from a demon. the Brahmins.








Varaha, the boar Kalki, the tenth avatar, is
and third avatar, still to come. Vishnu will
saved the earth then appear for the final
from drowning in Narasimha, the half-man, half-lion fourth destruction and will
the ocean by lifting avatar, killed the demon Hiranyakshipu and recreate the world in
it up on his tusks. delivered the earth from his evil deeds. perfect purity.

See also features on Hindu Mythology (see pp28–9), Ganesha (see p471) and Shiva (see p570)



682-683_EW_India.indd 683 26/04/17 11:50 am

684  SOUTH INDIA


sword together with the
sun and the moon, are
intricately carved on to the
walls of this seven-storeyed
towered gateway.
Nearby, similar but smaller
gopuras provide access to
the Kalahastishvara Temple,
the town’s main attraction,
surrounded by a paved
rectangular compound. A
doorway to the south leads
into a crowded enclosure of
columned halls, pavilions, lamp
Rani Mahal, roofed by stepped pyramidal towers, at Chandragiri columns and altars, connected
by a maze of colonnades and
o Chandragiri p Sri Kalahasti corridors. Some of the columns
are carved as rearing animal
Tirupati district. 18 km (11 miles) Chittoor district. 41 km (25 miles)
SW of Tirupati. @ from Tirupati. NE of Tirupati. @ from Tirupati. figures. In the north corridor
_ Temple Festival (Sep/Oct). are a set of bronzes of the 63
This small village was once Shaivite saints called Nayannars
an important outpost of the Located between two steep (see p49). The inner sanctum,
Vijayanagar kings. It later hills, on the southern bank of opening to the west, enshrines
became the capital of the the Svarnamukhi river, this town the vayu (air) linga, one of the
Aravidu ruler, Venkatapatideva is one of the most imp ortant five elemental lingas of Shiva
(r.1586–1614), whose reign pilgrimage centres in Andhra (see p588) in South India. It is
saw the decline of the Pradesh. Dominating one a curiously elongated linga
Vijayanagar Empire. end of the crowded main street protected by a cobra hood,
Chandragiri’s once glorious is a 36.5-m (120-ft) made of brass.
past is reflected in the massive high free-standing According to a
walls of its late 16th-century gopura, erected in local legend,
fortress and some abandoned 1516 by Emperor a spider, a cobra
palaces. The most important of Krishna deva Raya of and an elephant
these is the Raja Mahal, which Vijayanagar (see worshipped the linga
has an arcaded Durbar Hall and pp534–7). The royal in their own special
a domed pleasure pavilion. It emblems of the way. The spider
was here that Sir Francis Day dynasty, depicting Flower seller at first spun a web
of the East India Company was the boar and the Sri Kalahasti around it to
granted land in 1639, in order
to set up a factory in what later
came to be known as Madras Kalamkari Fabrics
(see p561). Nearby is the Deriving their name from the word kalam for pen and kari for
Rani Mahal, with its striking work, these brightly coloured cotton fabrics are produced at
pyramidal towers, and its façade Machilipatnam (see p676) and Sri Kalahasti. Using a mixture of
decorated with foliate and painting and dyeing techniques, figures of gods, goddesses,
geometric motifs. trees and birds are first drawn on the fabric, and then painted
with a “pen” made of a bamboo stick padded at one end with
cotton cloth. The traditional natural colours of ochre, soft pink,
indigo, madder red and iron black are characteristic of kalamkari
textiles. Kalamkaris from Sri Kalahasti were part of temple
ritual and, like temple
murals, depict
mythological themes,
with gods, goddesses
and other celestial
beings. The ones from
Machilipatnam display
a distinct Persian
influence (see p677)
and once formed
part of a lucrative
trade with Europe,
dating back to
A temple next to the ruined palaces the 17th century. Kalamkari depicting Shiva and Parvati
at Chandragiri
For hotels and restaurants in this region see p703 and p719


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Sri Kalahasti town, with its towering gopuras and the Kannappa Temple on a hillock
protect it from the sun’s a Puttaparthi Satyanarayana Raju in this village
rays. The cobra, when he Ananthapur district. 437 km (272 miles) on 23 November 1926, claimed
reached the shrine, was so S of Hyderabad. ~ 6 km (4 miles) SW divine powers. When he was only
upset to see the linga covered of ashram, then taxi. £ Dharmavaram, 14, he declared that he was the
with dirty cobwebs that he 40 km (25 miles) N of Puttaparthi, reincarnation of a celebrated
cleaned and covered it with then bus. @ n APTDC, (040) 3048 saint, Sai Baba from Shirdi in
little stones. The last to arrive 8365. _ Sai Baba’s Birthday (23 Nov). Maharashtra who died in 1918.
was the elephant, who removed Sai Baba passed away in 2011.
the stones and decorated the As the birthplace of Sri Satya Sai It is believed that he will return
linga with flowers. This continued Baba, the “godman” who after his death as another saint
for some time until the three preached religious called Prem Sai Baba.
devotees, each sure that his way tolerance, universal In 1950, Satya Sai
of worship was the purest and love and service to Baba established
that the others had committed others, Puttaparthi an ashram for his
sacrilege, decided to confront has a special signifi­ followers, whose
each other. In the fight that cance for his vast numbers had swollen
ensued, they collapsed, and number of devotees to gigantic figures.
Lord Shiva, pleased by their from all over the Known as Prasanthi
devotion, blessed them and world. The late Sai Nilayam, or the
named the shrine after them – Baba’s ability to “Abode of Highest
Sri (spider), Kala (cobra) and produce vibhuti Peace”, it is today
Hasti (elephant). (sacred ash), seem­ Sri Satya Sai Baba a large complex
Sri Kalahasti is also linked ingly miraculously (1926–2011) with guesthouses,
to the legend of Kannappa, out of thin air, is dormitories, kitchens
the hunter, through its Kannappa considered by his devotees to be and dining halls. Over the years,
Temple. One of the 63 Nayannars, a symbol of his god­like status several buildings have appeared
Kannappa plucked out his eye and powers. From a very young around the ashram – schools,
in a frenzy of devotion and age, Sai Baba, who was born as colleges, residential complexes,
offered it to Shiva. A shrine hospitals, a planetarium, a
comme morating him stands museum and recreation
on the summit of the hillock centres, transforming this
that rises to the east. tiny village into a
Worshippers have thronged cosmopolitan township.
to this temple for generations Outside the ashram, at the
in order to seek relief from the lower end of the village,
“evil effects” of Saturn. Some rural life continues,
pilgrims also come here with seemingly unaffected by
their unmarried daughters in the ashram’s activities. The
the hope that a special puja at countryside around is very
the temple will help them find fertile, with stretches of
good husbands. Women working in the fields, Puttaparthi well­irrigated fields.




684-685_EW_India.indd 685 26/04/17 11:50 am

686  SOUTH INDIA


depicting episodes from the form), the temple stands in
Ramayana (see p31) and the middle of two concentric
the Krishna legend, while enclosures, built on three levels.
scenes from Shiva mythology It is entered through a gopura
are sculpted on the walls of on the north side. On either side
the Shiva Temple. of the inner entrance are figures
The adjacent Gagan Mahal is of the river goddesses Ganga
a palatial structure dating to the and Yamuna, with a background
Vijayanagar period. An arcaded of foliage. Among the other
verandah leads to a vaulted hall notable sculptures here are the
with rear chambers. The domed carvings on the massive pillars
pavilion above is topped by a that define the central space
pyra midal octagonal tower. in the open hall; the deities,
A similar, smaller tower tops the guardians and sages carved on
adjoining staircase. To its east is to the piers of the unfinished
a square pavilion with curving Kalyana Mandapa; and the
eaves, a pierced imposing monolithic
parapet and an seven-headed naga
Ornate mihrab of the Sher Shah Mosque, octagonal pyra midal (serpent) sheltering a
Penukonda tower. The interior granite linga, to the
has traces of intricate southeast of the main
s Penukonda plasterwork. Nearby shrine. Paintings in
is a well with an vibrant vegetable
Anantapur district. 425 km
(264 miles) SW of Hyderabad. ornate entrance and mineral colours
@ _ Babayya Fair (Dec). shaped like a lion. Monolithic naga, cover the ceilings
A short distance Virabhadra Temple of the two adjoining
A rocky hill dominates north of the walled mandapas (one
Penukonda, or the “Big Hill”, with city is the Dargah of Babayya, open and the other walled in),
walls rising up its steep sides to the shrine of a 16th-century the walls of the Ardha Mandapa
form an almost triangular fort. Muslim saint. A popular and some subsidiary shrines.
A strategic Vijayanagar citadel pilgrimage place, which was Gods and goddesses, groups
from the 14th to the 16th much patronized by Tipu Sultan of donors and worshippers,
centuries, Penukonda was (see p521), it holds a big fair and scenes from myths and
the capital of the succeeding every December. legends, bear witness to the
Aravidu rulers until it was superb pictorial art of the
captured, first by the Qutb Vijayanagar empire.
Shahis, and then by, the Mughals d Lepakshi A gory legend connected to
followed by the Marathas. Anantapur district. 478 km (297 miles) the Virabhadra Temple says that
Today, gateways, watchtowers, SW of Hyderabad. @ ( daily. Virupanna misused state funds
dilapidated halls and shrines _ Shivratri (Feb/Mar). to build this shrine, and then
skirt the path to the summit. forestalled royal punishment by
At the foot of the hill is An enormous monolith of blinding himself. The two dark
the walled city, with its main Nandi, Shiva’s bull, stands 1 km reddish spots on the western
gateways in the northern and (0.6 miles) east of Lepakshi, wall of the inner enclosure
eastern sides. To the south is a welcoming visitors to this are said to be the marks left
large tank. The main monuments important pilgrimage town. by his eyes.
are situated along the city’s north- Lepakshi’s top
south road. The Parsvanatha attraction is the
Jain Temple here contains a Virabhadra Temple,
remarkable sculpture, dating which stands on a rocky
from the Hoysala period (12th– outcrop. It was built in
13th centuries), of the Jain saint the mid-16th century,
Parsvanatha (see p401) standing under the patronage of
in front of an undulating two brothers, Virupanna
serpent. The 16th-century Sher and Viranna, governors
Shah Mosque, nearby, has of Penukonda under
an arcaded façade and a the Vijayanagar empire.
bulbous dome. The temple is an
Further south, standing next important repository
to each other, are two granite of the styles of sculpture
temples dedicated to Rama and painting that evolved
and Shiva. The pilastered façade during this period.
walls of the Rama Temple are Dedicated to Virabhadra
brought to life by carvings (Shiva in his ferocious Carved pillars at the Virabhadra Temple
For hotels and restaurants in this region see p703 and p719


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Lepakshi Paintings

The glory of Lepakshi lies in the magnificent frescoed ceilings of the Virabhadra Temple,
where a series of exquisite paintings illustrate in lively fashion episodes from the epics
and the Puranas. The figures are shown in profile, with prominent eyes and sharply
chiselled noses and chins. The frescoes are characterized by elegant black linework, set
out against an orange-red background. Particularly striking are the beautiful costumes
and the detailed rendering of hairstyles, textile patterns and jewellery. The palette of
colours is limited to white, green, black and various shades of ochre and brown, applied
to a stucco surface specially treated with lime. Some of the most beautiful paintings are
on the ceiling of the open mandapa, arranged in long strips along the surrounding bays.
Brahma officiating Garuda, Vishnu’s
Ravana Nandi Shiva Parvati as the priest bird-vehicle





















The Marriage of Shiva and Parvati
This is Lepakshi’s most spectacular fresco, and echoes the murals at Ajanta (see pp483–5)
in its colours, detailed depiction of costumes and jewellery, and graceful female figures.

Dakshinamurti (Shiva as a Divine
Teacher) is shown seated on a
hillock, expounding
on mysticism
and philosophy
to sages
gathered
at his feet.
Parvati, with her maids, is shown getting ready for the
wedding. Flat figures in stylized poses, often arranged
in rows, characterize these paintings.


The Boar Hunt
shows a wild
boar charging
at Arjuna and
Shiva, who are
preparing to
shoot him.





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688-IND-ED543-1040-TNOpen.indd 688 29/04/14 7:16 pm
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TRAVELLERS’


NEEDS






Where to Stay 690–703

Where to Eat and Drink 704–719
Shops & Markets 720–723
Entertainment 724–725
Outdoor Activities &
Specialist Holidays 726–731













































688-IND-ED543-1040-TNOpen.indd 689 29/04/14 7:16 pm

690  TR A VELLERS ’ NEEDS

WHERE TO STAY

Visitors to India have a wide choice of departments, may lack the glamour of a
accommodation available – from traditional five-star, but they are clean and offer excellent
hospitality in grand old palaces and home value for money. Cheaper accommodation
stays, to modern western-style deluxe hotels, is available at guesthouses, youth hostels
budget hotes and tourist bungalows. Prices and even spartan pilgrim abodes, such as
vary depending on the quality of services dharamshalas and ashrams. Hotel rates
offered, and the location. Star-rated luxury fluctuate with the season and are usually
hotels, speciality hotels, health spas and cheaper during the off-season from April
heritage hotels are expensive, but the amenities to September. The hotel listings on pages
they offer more than justify the high room 694–703 provide a selection of some of
rates. The moderately priced mid-range the best hotels throughout India, to suit
hotels, often managed by state tourism every taste and budget.
Grading and Facilities based on the European system payment in advance and will
At the top of the scale are the of room rent only, although in refund only part of the amount
five-star deluxe hotels. Most some places breakfast is included. if the booking is cancelled.
of these are part of international Flexible prices dominate the Check-out time is usually
and Indian hotel chains, such market during the off-season noon, though some hotels
as the Hilton, Oberoi, ITC Hotels and in some cases may drop by are more flexible and allow a
or Taj Group. Next, are the four- almost 50 per cent. It is worth 24-hour departure, or accept
and three-star hotels, some negotiating for a good discount. a small fee for a few hours’
of them run by the state Some hotels have a dual tariff extension. Smaller hotels may
govern ments, followed by the policy (for foreigners and Indians), allow a later check out, for free.
guest houses. Heritage hotels which means that foreigners When paying, scrutinize the bill
offer the opportunity to stay in have to pay a dollar room rate thoroughly and retain all
beautifully restored forts, palaces plus any additional taxes on the receipts on departure.
and stately homes. listed price. This is payable either Online booking sites such
in foreign currency or Indian as MakeMyTrip, TripAdvisor
rupees. Hotel rates are usually and ClearTrip have become
Pricing and Booking revised every October, at the extremely popular, as they offer
Accommodation in the bigger beginning of the tourist season. a wide range of hotel listings,
cities is generally more expensive. It is advisable to book well in photographs, customer reviews
The most pricey establish ments advance during the peak tourist and good deals. Customer
are the five-star and five-star season (Oct–Mar). Since the service guarantee is another
deluxe hotels as well as the classifications of hotels can be major advantage.
exclusive heritage hotels, although bewildering, it is best to get a
smaller properties among the complete description of what to Taxes
latter can be cheaper. State-run expect in terms of both room
hotels, which have a good and service quality. While making The hotel bill includes taxes
nationwide network, are more reservations, especially for mid- levied by the federal and state
economical, though their rates range and budget hotels, check governments. The federal
can differ. Price categories for which credit cards are accepted. government charges a uniform
guesthouses also vary. Tariffs are Note that some hotels demand 10 per cent hotel expenditure
tax (on room rent only), which
is imposed on all hotels with a
tariff of ₹3,000 and above. States
levy a luxury tax on the rack rate
of a room as well; this varies
from 5 to 25 per cent. There may
also be local taxes such as sales
tax, service tax and special taxes
on alcohol. Some hotels also
levy a service charge.

Hidden Costs
Be prepared to pay extra for
breakfast, the mini bar, mineral
Bedroom interiors at the Taj Mahal Palace (see p700), Mumbai water, telephone calls, laundry,
Flea market shop with handmade goods on display in Hampi



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WHERE T O ST A Y  691


with simple decor, Indian or
Western-style toilets, ceiling
fans and basic food options
in a dining hall. The tariff in
major cities is higher than
in smaller towns.
An excellent option,
particularly in lesser-known
tourist destinations, is the
countrywide network of tourist
bungalows and lodges run by
the state tourism departments.
Moderately priced, they offer
Picturesque setting of the Neemrana heritage hotel in Alwar both independent rooms
with en-suite baths and
room service (if this is not a and many are still run by former dormitory accommodation.
regular service), business centre princely families, who treat
usage, heaters in cold locations, visitors like honoured guests. Guesthouses, Paying
concierge services and even Bookings can be made
pay channels on television. through private agencies, Guests and Home Stays
Transfers to and from the hotel such as the HRH Group of In some states, such as
are complimentary only for Hotels, Neemrana Hotels Goa, Tamil Nadu, Rajasthan
upmarket package tours. and WelcomHeritage. and Madhya Pradesh, family
For non-local and Bookings at these hotels cottages and old mansions
international telephone calls, can also be made through have been converted into
check if there is an in-house reputed travel agencies. guesthouses. While these usually
ISD/STD facility, though it is fall into the mid-range or budget
cheaper to get a local SIM card categories, the number of
(see p746). Small hotels, with Middle-Range Hotels amenities, quality of service
no running hot water, often The four- and three-star hotels and price can be erratic. Look
charge extra for buckets of offer a scaled-down version at the rooms before checking
hot water. of five-star luxury and are less in, as the difference between
expensive. Levels of comfort, two rooms of the same price
cleanliness and professional can be substantial.
Luxury Hotels services are, however, high. Staying with local families
India’s luxury hotels are Rooms are air conditioned and is a popular option. It is best
comparable with the best have en-suite bathrooms. In to check with the state tourism
any where in the world. They addition, there are restaurants, offices (see p737) for a list of
offer capacious suites and rooms, gift shops, business centres and establishments under their
fine service and a host of sometimes extensive gardens. Paying Guest Scheme. Rajasthan
amenities. These usually include Tourism has a comprehensive
a travel desk, state-of-the-art Budget Hotels and list, as does Madhya Pradesh
conference facilities, shopping Tourism. For Kerala, Sundale
arcades, swimming pools, Tourist Lodges Vacations is a reliable resource.
modern fitness centres and Budget hotels are often found The UK-based Munjeeta Travels
multi-cuisine restaurants. The around bus stands and railway and Home & Hospitality also
staff are polite and attentive and stations. They are inexpensive, organize home stays.
can help plan itineraries and
make arrangements for activities
such as tennis, golf or riding.
Reservations should be made
in advance, especially during
the peak season.

Heritage Hotels
Several palaces, forts and
havelis, particularly in Rajasthan,
Madhya Pradesh, Himachal
Pradesh and Gujarat, have been
restored, modernized and
converted into plush, luxury
hotels. These establishments
have a gracious, old-world charm, Lounge of the Lakkhotaa Lodge, Shillong




690-691_EW_India.indd 691 26/04/17 11:50 am

692  TR A VELLER ’ S NEEDS

Dharamshalas and
Ashrams
Religious centres, among
them dharamshalas, ashrams,
gurudwaras and monasteries,
offer basic but clean
accommodation all over the
country. For most, prior booking
is not essential and a stay is
often free, although donations
are appreciated. It is wise to
abide by the rules of the house
and not offend any sentiments.
Some ashrams in the older Luxury camp site at Pushkar during the annual camel fair
sections of towns usually provide
only a mattress on the floor, Reservations can be made Other services include
which should suffice if the stay through Wild World India, massage therapies, such as
is just for a night. Be prepared to or through travel agencies. aromatherapy and reflexology
share rooms and bathrooms. Camping is not allowed inside and meditation. Usually, a
Popular ashrams such as wildlife sanctuaries, and as a strict diet is part of the spartan
Sri Aurobindo Ashram and rule, it is not safe to venture regime, although rules at the
the Sivananda Ashram have out for unguided walks. top-end resorts are flexible.
branches spread across the Tented camps are provided The Oberoi Group and Ananda
country. Bookings must be made by operators who organize are world-class spas. An entirely
in advance. Their head offices adventure tours, such as river different accommodation is
can be contacted for details. rafting on the Ganges (see p189), provided on board Kerala’s
In Ladakh, many monasteries or those that specialize in kettuvallams. These traditional
run hotels fairly close to their camping holidays (see p728). rice boats are luxurious and
premises. Lamayuru Monastery Check the arrangements in provide a unique experience
Hotel is among the best and advance, as some may not provide of the scenic backwaters. Trips
has a great setting within the mosquito nets or mineral water. can be organized by Tourindia.
compound (see p142). In Rajasthan, some hotels offer
guests the option of staying
in luxury tents set in spacious Youth Hostels
National Parks and gardens. During the Pushkar and India has an outstanding
Camping Sites
Kumbh melas (fairs), the state network of youth hostels.
National parks and wildlife governments provide tented Though these offer rooms at
sanctuaries usually have forest accommodation on site. very low rates, they also tend to
rest houses with basic facilities. be packed. Members of the Youth
Since most of these are often Special Hotels Hostel Association of India
reserved for forest officials, many and Youth Hostel International
of the larger parks have private The rising interest in holistic get priority bookings, but non-
resorts located on their periphery. health and well-being has members can get a room for a
The most popular among these spawned a number of exclusive higher price. Both room and
are in Ranthambhore (Sher Bagh), health spas and specialized dorm-style accommodation is
Corbett (Infinity Resorts), Kaziranga resorts. The most popular are available. The YMCAs are better
(Green Village Resort) and those that offer yoga and herbal equipped, though more expen-
Nagarhole (Kabini River Lodge). treatments such as Ayurveda. sive and located in fewer towns.
Touts
Visitors with no prior bookings
should contact tourist counters
at the airport, railway station
or bus stand to avoid being
harassed by touts, who also
operate as taxi and auto-
rickshaw drivers. Many are very
persuasive and offer incredible
discounts, all for a commission.
Some, however, are genuinely
helpful, and if there is no other
option, keep the driver waiting
Riceboat or kettuvallam, Kerala backwaters until you are sure about the




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WHERE T O ST A Y  693


lodgings. Speak to a policeman amount is discretionary. A tip of
if touts become too persistent. ₹50 is fine for parking attendants,
room service and porters, but
waiters expect ten per cent of
Facilities for Travellers the bill. Taxi drivers don’t need
with Special Needs to be tipped. However, tipping
and Children might get things done quickly.
Though there are few facilities
for travellers with special
needs, hotel staff are generally Recommended Hotels
considerate. The government The options featured in this
has initiated a move to add guide have been carefully
wheelchair ramps, special lifts selected and are among the best
and bathrooms wherever places to stay in the country in
possible, although older their respective categories.
properties, even the five-star These categories highlight
hotels, may find it difficult to accommodation that is unique
accommodate them. to India, such as palace hotels Simple interiors of Dhole’s Den (see p701),
Most hotels have no special and safari lodges near national a boutique safari lodge in Bandipur
amenities for children. However, parks. The choices reflect new
Indian hotel staff are usually boutique hotels opening up metropolises, the full spectrum of
good with children, and throughout the country. These accommodation is presented,
provisions can be made for provide an alternative to the from self-contained five-star
extra beds. Only a few select established luxury of large five- resorts to small, locally
hotels offer baby-sitting services. star chains. In areas where managed B&Bs. The DK Choice
choice is limited, the list category draws attention to
emphasizes places offering establish ments that are
Tipping
good value for money, including exceptional, either for their
Despite the inclusion of service government-run lodges, which outstanding location, their
charges in the bill, tips are maintain acceptable and emphasis on sustainability,
expected in most places. The comfortable standards. In the or their heritage credentials.
DIRECTORY
Hotel Chains Neemrana Hotels Dharamshalas & Special Hotels
A-20, Feroze Gandhi Marg, Ashrams
Ashok Group Lajpat Nagar-II, Delhi. Tourindia
ITDC, 7 Jeevan Vihar, Tel (011) 4666 1666. Niranjana Hotel PO Box 163, Near SMV
3, Sansad Marg, Delhi. Next to Lamayuru High School, Mahatma
Tel (011) 2436 0303. ∑ neemranahotels.com Monastery, Ladakh Gandhi Road,
∑ theashokgroup.com WelcomHeritage district, Jammu Thiruvananthapuram.
ITC Hotels 25, Community Centre, & Kashmir. Tel (0471) 233 1507.
Tel (1800) 102 2333. Basant Lok, Vasant Vihar, Tel (01982) 224 555. ∑ tourindiakerala.com
∑ itchotels.in Delhi. Tel (011) 4603 5500. Sivananda Ashram Youth Hostels
∑ welcomheritage Divine Life Society,
Oberoi Group
Tel (1800) 112 030. hotels.in PO Shivanandanagar, YMCA
∑ oberoihotels.com 249192, Tehri Garhwal YMCA Hostel,
Guesthouses, district, Uttarakhand. 1 Jai Singh Rd,
Taj Group Paying Guests & Tel (0135) 243 0040. Connaught Place, Delhi.
Tel (1800) 111 825. Home Stays ∑ sivanandaonline.org Tel (011) 4364 4000.
∑ tajhotels.com ∑ newdelhiymca.org/
Home & Hospitality Sri Aurobindo
Heritage Hotels Tel + 44 (0) 138 439 8880. Ashram Youth Hostels
Tel (011) 2656 7863.
Asso ciation of India
∑ homeand
HRH Group of Hotels hospitality.co.uk ∑ sriaurobindoashram. Tel (07827) 999 000.
City Palace, Udaipur. org ∑ yhaindia.org
Tel (0294) 241 9021. Munjeeta Travels National Parks &
∑ hrhhotels.com 12 Cavendish Rd, Woking, Camping Sites
Surrey, GU22 OEP, UK.
Indian Heritage Tel (01483) 773 331.
Hotels Association ∑ munjeetatravel.com Wild World
Sansar Chandra Rd, Jaipur. India
429, Sector 29, Noida,
Tel (0141) 237 1194. Sundale Vacations Uttar Pradesh.
∑ indianheritage Tel (0484) 235 9127. Tel (120) 411 5047.
hotels.com ∑ sundale.com ∑ wildworldindia.com

692-693_EW_India.indd 693 26/04/17 11:50 am

694  TR A VELLERS ’ NEEDS

Where to Stay

Claridges  Price Guide
Delhi Luxury Prices are based on one night's stay in
12 Dr APJ Abdul Kalam Rd, 110011 a standard double room, inclusive of
Bloomrooms  Tel (011) 3955 5000 service charges and taxes.
Budget ∑ claridges.com  up to INR5,000
7 Link Rd, Jangpura Extension, 110014 This elegant hotel features  INR5,000–10,000
Tel (011) 4122 5666 sumptuous rooms, beautiful art,  over INR10,000
∑bloomrooms.com a pool and a tapas restaurant.
A budget option with minimalist between two malls. Their
decor, excellent showers and a DK Choice restaurant, Dakshin, serves
choice of pillows in a central spot. delectable South Indian food.
The Imperial 
Devna  Heritage The Ashok 
B&B 1 Janpath, 110001 Luxury
10 Sunder Nagar, 110003 Tel (011) 2334 1234 50-B Chanakyapuri, 110021
Tel (011) 2435 5047 ∑ theimperialindia.com Tel (011) 2611 0101
∑ devnadelhi.com This elegant hotel with alluring ∑ theashok.com
An oasis of peace, this quiet yet interiors and award-winning Palatial Mughal architecture and
centrally located guesthouse is restaurants is one of the best the famous Amatrra spa make
decorated with antiques. ways to experience both Colonial this an old, but faded, favourite.
and modern Delhi. Designed as
Hotel Broadway  part of Lutyens grand vision of The Lodhi 
Heritage Delhi, the hotel hosted Gandhi Luxury
4/15A Asaf Ali Rd, 110002 and Nehru, as they discussed Lodi Rd, 110003
Tel (011) 4366 3600 India's independence. Tel (011) 4363 3333
∑ hotelbroadwaydelhi.com ∑ thelodhi.com
An atmospheric hotel in Old The height of luxury in the heart
Delhi with comfortable rooms, Maidens   of the city, there is a great spa and
a restaurant and walking tours. Heritage rooms with excellent city views.
7 Sham Nath Marg, 110054
Tree of Life B&B  Tel (011) 2397 5464 The Taj Mahal Hotel 
Budget ∑ maidenshotel.com Luxury
D-193 Saket, 110017 One of Delhi's oldest hotels offers 1 Man Singh Rd, 110001
Tel (0) 98102 77699 classic style and great views of Tel (011) 2302 6162
∑ tree-of-life.in the Delhi Ridge. ∑ taj.tajhotels.com
This simple and friendly B&B is Mughal-inspired decor and lovely
located close to Saket metro and The Manor  grounds. The superb Varq is one
Qutb Minar. Boutique of the many restaurants on site.
77 Friends Colony West, 110065
Amarya Haveli  Tel (011) 2692 5151
Boutique ∑ themanordelhi.com
P5 Hauz Khas Enclave, 110016 This stylish hotel, where designer Haryana and Punjab
Tel (011) 4175 9267 Terence Conran stays, houses the
∑ amaryagroup.com acclaimed eatery Indian Accent. AMRITSAR: Le Golden 
An urban oasis in a heritage Comfort lodging
mansion with stylish rooms, a Palace Heights   Clock tower Ext, 143001
lovely lounge and a roof terrace. Boutique Tel (0183) 255 8800
D–26/28 Connaught Place, 110001 ∑ hotellegolden.com
Tel (011) 4358 2610 Good rooms here feature great
∑ hotelpalaceheights.com views of the Golden Temple and
Rooms here are small but stylish Akal Takht from the roof.
and in a superb location. Glass-
roofed restaurant, Zaffran, is on site. AMRITSAR: Ranjits Svaasa 
Heritage
Scarlette New Delhi   47-A The Mall Rd, 143001
Boutique Tel (0) 98726 26618
2/139 Safdarjung Enclave, 110029 ∑ welcomheritagehotels.in
Tel (0) 95820 79058 Great food and an ayurvedic spa
∑scarlettenewdelhi.com add to the authentic charm of
French interiors combine with an this hotel, set in a restored haveli.
Indian touch at this place close
to Haus Khas. CHANDIGARH: Kaptain's
Retreat 
Sheraton New Delhi   Boutique
Luxury Sector 35-B, 160022
District Centre, Saket, 110017 Tel (0172) 500 5599
Tel (011) 4266 1122 ∑ nivalink.com
∑ itchotels.in Stylish rooms with lots of cricket
Poolside view of the stylish Claridges Stylish interiors feature in a memorabilia feature in this hotel
hotel in Delhi cosmopolitan hotel sandwiched owned by cricketer Kapil Dev.
694-703_EW_India.indd 694 26/04/17 11:55 am

WHERE T O ST A Y  695

CHANDIGARH: Taj Hotel 
Luxury
Block 9A, Sector 17, 160017
Tel (0172) 661 3000
∑ tajhotels.com
Taj-style luxury with all the mod
cons is offered close to the city's
popular business and shopping
area of Sector 17.

Himachal Pradesh
DALHOUSIE: Grand
View Hotel 
Rural retreat Warm and inviting interiors of the Banjara Camp in Sangla
Near Dalhousie Club, 700001
Tel 086288 10659 DK Choice located in a flowery garden near
∑ grandviewdalhousie.in the 10th-century Alchi Monastery.
Stylish rooms offer spectacular SANGLA: Banjara Camp  The scenery is simply stunning.
views of the Pir Panjal range. Rural retreat
There's elegant dining, too. Sangla, 172106 LEH: Oriental Guesthouse 
Tel (0) 98169 59904 Eco-friendly
DHARAMSALA: Chonor ∑ banjaracamps.com Changspa, 194101
House  An urban escape with epic Tel (094191) 78774
Boutique mountain scenery next to the ∑ lehladakhhotels.com
Thekchen Choeling Rd, Mcleodganj, rushing Baspa river. Choose from This family-run guesthouse offers
176219 beautiful rooms in a stone cottage rooms for all budgets and great
Tel (01892) 221 006 or deluxe tents. Head out for a organic food close to the bazaar.
∑ norbulingka.org relaxing and picturesque walk.
Beautiful hotel featuring Tibetan LEH: Yak Tail 
furniture and paintings, plus an Comfort lodging
excellent restaurant. SARAHAN: Shrikhand  Fort Rd, 194101
Comfort lodging Tel (01982) 252 118
DHARAMSALA: Grace Hotel  Sarahan Village, 172102 ∑ hotelyaktail.com
Heritage Tel (01782) 274 234 Appealing wood rooms, some
558 Old Chari Rd, Kotwali Bazaar, 176215 ∑ hptdc.nic.in with balconies, are offered in
Tel (01892) 223 265 Located opposite to the a convenient location for the
∑ welcomheritagehotels.in Bhimakali Temple, the basic bazaar and restaurants.
Set in a stunning, beautifully- accommodation here is
restored manor house, this hotel surrounded by mountains. LEH: Ladakh Residency 
offers superb local food. Comfort lodging
SHIMLA: Hotel Combermere  Changspa, 194101
KULLU: Neeralaya  Comfort lodging Tel (01982) 258 111
Eco-friendly The Mall, 171001 ∑ ladakhresidency.com
Raison Village, 175101 Tel (0177) 265 1246 Traditional touches, including
Tel (01902) 245 725 ∑ hotelcombermere.com wall paintings, are combined
∑ neeralaya.com Comfortable rooms and two good here with modern amenities
This beautiful resort is set in a in-house restaurants are located and a rooftop restaurant.
scenic location with cottages and with access to the Mall road.
villas overlooking the Beas river. NUBRA: Hotel Yarab Tso 
Perfect for a quiet vacation. SHIMLA: Wildflower Hall  Rural retreat
Heritage Tiger, Nubra, BPO Sumur Nubra
MANALI: Banon's Resort  Chharabra Village, 171012 Tel (01982) 252 480/ 9622820661
Comfort lodging Tel (0177) 264 8585 ∑ hotelyarabtso.com
Near Circuit House, 175131 ∑ oberoiwildflowerhall.com There's a friendly farmhouse
Tel (01902) 253 026 The former weekend retreat of vibe at this place with large
∑ banonresortmanali.com Lord Kitchener offers ultimate rooms, most of which enjoy
This characterful hotel with luxury with an amazing pool. mountain views. Great food is
spacious rooms has a good prepared with organic produce
restaurant and a very popular bar. from the garden.
MANALI: Baikunth Ladakh, Jammu & SRINAGAR: The Lalit
Manali  Kashmir Grand Palace 
Boutique Heritage
Circuit House Rd, Mall, 175131 ALCHI: Alchi Resort  Gupkar Rd, 190001
Tel (01902) 250 118 Rural retreat Tel (0194) 250 1001
∑ baikunth.com Alchi, 194101 ∑ thelalit.com
Located in a lovely stone-and- Tel (01982) 227 177 Gorgeous furnishings and grounds
wood building, this place offers ∑ alchiresort.tripod.com dotted with chinar trees are on
spacious rooms and balconies, This resort consists of well- offer at this charming maharaja's
and has a romantic vibe. appointed whitewashed chalets former residence.
For more information on types of hotels see page 693

694-703_EW_India.indd 695 26/04/17 11:55 am

696  TR A VELLERS ’ NEEDS

SRINAGAR: Vivanta by Taj – palace with beautiful, spacious and gift shop. A short walk from
Dal View  rooms and incredible views. the centre of Bodh Gaya.
Luxury
Kralsangri, Brein, 191121 RISHIKESH: Rainforest House  BODH GAYA: Mahayana Guest
Tel (0194) 246 1111 Eco-friendly House 
∑ vivantabytaj.com Badrinath Rd, Brahmpuri, 249175 Comfort lodging
Lake views and sprawling Tel (0) 80067 79298 PO Box 04, 824231
gardens combine here with ∑ rainforest-house.com Tel (0631) 220 0756
fabulous dining and chic decor. A calm oasis with stylish rooms, Run by the Tibetan monastery,
yoga and a café serving Italian rooms here sit around court yards.
ULEYTOKPO: Ule Ethnic Resort  classics and healthy local food. Close to Mahabodhi Temple.
Eco-friendly
Uleytopko, 194101 TEHRI GARHWAL: Ananda in PATNA: Gargee Grand 
Tel (01982) 253 640 the Himalayas  Great value
∑ uleresort.com Luxury Exhibition Rd, 800001
High-quality chalets and canvas Narendra Nagar, 249175 Tel (0612) 250 0535
huts beside an orchard come with Tel (0124) 451 6650 / (01378) 227 500 ∑ gargeegrand.com
organic meals and solar power. ∑ anandaspa.com This hotel in the commercial
An award-winning spa resort district combines stylish rooms
with yoga, holistic treatments and suites with first-class service.
and superlative views.
Uttar Pradesh and PATNA: Hotel Chanakya 
Uttarakhand VARANASI: Hotel Ganges Boutique
View  R-Block, Beerchand Patel Marg, 800001
AGRA: Taj Plaza  Heritage Tel (0612) 222 3141/222 3142
Comfort lodging Asi Ghat, 221005 ∑ chanakyapatna.com/
Taj East Gate Rd, 282001 Tel (0542) 329 0289/231 3218 Centrally located, this hotel has
Tel (080552) 53778 ∑ hotelgangesview.com spacious rooms, good facilities
∑ hoteltajplaza.in This characterful early 19th- and two restaurants.
Set close to the Taj Mahal, this century home right on the ghats
hotel offers rooftop views and serves delicious vegetarian food. RAJGIR: Indo Hokke Hotel 
good rooms in various sizes. Boutique
VARANASI: Scindhia Guest Near Viraytan, 803116
AGRA: Amar Vilas  House  Tel (06119) 255 245
Luxury Comfort lodging ∑ theroyalresidency.net
Taj East Gate Rd, 282001 Scindia Ghat, 221001 Popular with international
Tel (0562) 223 1515 Tel (0542) 239 3446 Buddhist tourists, this place offers
∑ amarvilas.com ∑ scindhiaguesthouse.com Japanese design and a bathhouse.
This is the height of all luxury and Simple rooms and home-cooked
the only hotel where every room food are offered at this RANCHI: Chanakya BNR Hotel 
has a view of the Taj Mahal. guesthouse. The vibe is friendly Heritage
and welcoming. Station Rd, 834001
LUCKNOW: Vivanta by Taj  Tel (0651) 246 1211–4
Luxury ∑ chanakyabnrranchi.com
Vipin Khand, Gomti Nagar, 226010 This modern four-star hotel also
Tel (0522) 671 1000 Bihar and offers a 1905 wing full of old-
∑ vivantabytaj.com Jharkhand world charm.
A colonial-style building with
luxurious rooms and grounds,
and live ghazals in the evenings. BODH GAYA: Kundan Bazar
Guest House  Madhya Pradesh and
NAINITAL: The Palace Great value Chhattisgarh
Belvedere  Bhagalpur Village, 824231
Heritage Tel (0631) 220 0049 BANDHAVGARH: Samode Safari
Awagarh Estate, Mallital, 263001 ∑ kundanbazar.com Lodge 
Tel (05942) 237 434/235 082 Perfect budget option with Rural retreat
∑ thepalacebelvedere.com cheerful rooms, free cycles Bandhavgarh, 484661
Live like a king at this former and bike rental, rooftop café Tel (0124) 405 7795
∑ samode.com
At this stunning, luxurious eco-
property in the heart of the
jungle, guided tours are offered.
BHOPAL: Noor-us-Sabah
Palace 
Luxury
VIP Rd, Koh-e-Fiza, 462001
Tel (0755) 422 7777
∑ noorussabahpalace.com
An atmospheric and elegant
palace with beautiful rooms;
Noor-us-Sabah means ‘the
Picturesque setting of the Vivanta by Taj in Srinagar light of day’.
Key to Price Guide see page 694
694-703_EW_India.indd 696 26/04/17 11:55 am

WHERE T O ST A Y  697

GWALIOR: Usha Kiran
Palace 
Heritage
Jayendraganj, Lashkar, 474009
Tel (0751) 244 4000
∑ tajhotels.com
A beautifully restored 120-year-
old palace with rooms, suites and
villas with private pools
KANHA: Infinity Kanha
Wilderness 
Rural retreat
Baherakhar, District Balaghat, 481111
Tel (022) 6146 6400
∑ infinityresorts.com Simple and minimalist decor at The Bodhi Tree, Kolkata
Tents and villas with wooden
decks combine with village and glory and offers spacious rooms
wildlife tours. Kolkata and suites in the heart of the
business area.
KHAJURAHO: Casa Di William  DK Choice
Comfort lodging Novotel Kolkata Hotel and
Opposite Temples, 471606 The Bodhi Tree  Residences 
Tel (07686) 274 244/(098933) 98536 Boutique Luxury
∑ casadiwilliam.com 48/44 Swiss Park, Rabindra Rajarhat, Action Area 1C, Newtown,
Well-decorated spacious rooms Sarobar, 700033 700156
and rooftop views are located a Tel (033) 2424 6534 Tel (033) 4032 3333
short walk from the temples. ∑ bodhitreekolkata.com ∑ accorhotels.com
A haven of calm in Kolkata's Eastern India's largest hotel
KHAJURAHO: Taj Chandela  chaos, this B&B has six rooms, features a rooftop banquet room
Luxury each uniquely furnished, be it and studio with stunning views.
Sevagram, 471606 in Bengali, Tibetan or Rajasthani
Tel (07686) 2723 5564 / (097553) 67946 style. The Art Café in the court- Oberoi Grand 
∑ tajhotels.com yard serves delicious meals Luxury
At this old-fashioned Taj property amid plants and paintings, and 15 Jawaharlal Nehru Rd, 700013
amid landscaped gardens the a restful homely atmosphere Tel (033) 2249 2323
service is first class pervades throughout. ∑ oberoihotels.com
A colonial grande dame with
MAHESHWAR: Ahilya Fort  classic rooms, a pool and spa,
Heritage Broadway Hotel  and fine dining.
Ahilya Fort, 454010 Great value
Tel (011) 4155 1575 27A Ganesh Chandra Ave, 700013 Taj Bengal 
∑ ahilyafort.com Tel (033) 2236 3930 Luxury
Guests stay in the stunning ∑ broadwayhotel.in 34B Belvedere Rd, Alipore, 700027
historic fort of one of the most A centrally located hotel with a Tel (033) 2223 3939
celebrated women rulers of the great bar. The airy rooms have ∑ tajhotels.com
18th century. retro furnishings from 1937. Guests here enjoy a mix of
traditional and modern
DK Choice Fairlawn Hotel Pvt Ltd  furnishings, grand public areas
Heritage
and top-notch restaurants.
ORCHHA: Sheesh Mahal  13A Sudder St, 700016
Heritage Tel (033) 2252 1510 Tollygunge Club 
Inside the Fort, 472246 ∑ fairlawnhotel.com Heritage
Tel (07680) 252 618/252 624 This quirky place near New 120 Deshapran Sasmal Rd, 700033
∑ mptourism.com Market offers old-fashioned charm Tel (033) 2417 6022
Stay right inside the atmospheric and simple, comfortable rooms. ∑ thetollygungeclub.com
fort for an exceptional experience. Head to this country club setting
The two antiques-filled suites The Kenilworth  for colonial nostalgia and an 18-
recall bygone grandeur. Guests Luxury hole golf course.
enjoy unparalleled views across 1 & 2 Little Russell St, 700071
the fort courtyard. There is an Tel (033) 2282 3939
excellent restaurant on site. ∑ kenilworthhotels.com
Elegant rooms are set in a period West Bengal and
building with an English-style pub Sikkim
UJJAIN: Grand Tower  and a luxurious spa.
Comfort lodging DARJEELING: Cedar Inn 
1 Vikram Marg, Near Clock Tower, Lalit Great Eastern  Heritage
456010 Luxury Jalapahar Rd, 734101
Tel (0734) 255 3699/255 3700 1–3 Old Court House St, 700069 Tel (0354) 225 4446
∑ hotelgrandtower.com Tel (033) 4444 7777 ∑ cedarinndarjeeling.com
This pleasant business hotel with ∑ thelalit.com In a Victorian-Gothic building, this
good service is convenient for One of Asia's first luxury hotels hotel offers Kanchendzonga views
the riverside ghats of Ujjain. has been restored to its original and wood-panelled interiors.
For more information on types of hotels see page 693
694-703_EW_India.indd 697 26/04/17 11:55 am

698  TR A VELLERS ’ NEEDS

DARJEELING: Glenburn Tea
Estate 
Boutique
Glenburn Tea Estate, 734101
Tel (0) 98300 70213
∑ glenburnteaestate.com
High-class suites and excellent
service are offered amid lush
tea gardens.
GANGTOK: Elgin Nor-Khill 
Heritage
Palijor Stadium Rd, 737101
Tel (03592) 205 637
∑ elginhotels.com
This former retreat of Sikkim’s Bright, colourful lounge at Cochrane Place, Kurseong
rulers features traditional
furnishings and splendid views. species, include travel from PURI: Hotel Gandhara 
Kolkata, ethnic mud-hut rooms, Great value
KALIMPONG: Mayfair boat trips, park fees and meals. Chakratirtha Rd, 752002
Himalayan Hotel  Tel (06752) 224 117
Heritage ∑ hotelgandhara.com
Upper Cart Rd, 734301 A courtyard pool, spacious rooms
Tel (03552) 255 248 Odisha and pretty gardens are all in a
∑ himalayanhotel.biz great location for sightseeing.
Guests stay in a heritage property BHUBANESWAR:
adorned with photographs, The Trident 
Tibetan art and fireplaces. Luxury
CB-1 Nayapalli, 751013 Assam and the
DK Choice Tel (0674) 230 1010 Northeast
∑ tridenthotels.com
KURSEONG: Cochrane An elegant property with AGARTALA: Welcome
Place  orchards, a restaurant and Palace 
Heritage games room inspired, by the Comfort lodging
132 Pankhabari Rd, Fatak, 734203 city’s temples. HG Basak Rd, 799001
Tel (0) 90079 95888 Tel (0381) 238 4940/238 0101
∑ cochraneplace.com GOPALPUR-ON-SEA: ∑ hotelwelcomepalace.in
This refurbished Colonial Mayfair  On offer at the Welcome Palace
home has lush gardens and Luxury are spacious rooms, friendly
Kangchenzonga views. Deluxe Ganjam, 761002 service and a restaurant serving
rooms have antique furniture and Tel (0680) 234 3403/666 0101 Thai, Indian and Chinese food.
oodles of character. The annex has ∑ mayfairhotels.com
a Swiss-chalet feel. The Mayfair resort features AIZAWL: Chaltlang Tourist
lovely grounds and stunning Lodge 
swimming pool set amongst Great value
RUMTEK: Bamboo Retreat  panoramic sea views. Chaltlang, 796012
Rural retreat Tel (0389) 234 1083
Sajong Village, 737101 DK Choice ∑ mizotourism.nic.in
Tel (0392) 252 516 This government lodge sits atop
∑ bambooretreat.in GOUDAGUDA: Chandoori a steep ridge with views. It is
Set amid paddy fields, this retreat Sai  located 4 km (2 miles) from the
offers meditation, massage and Rural retreat city's vibrant markets.
organic food provided on a half- Kakiriguma, Koraput
board basis. District, 765013 GUWAHATI: Baruah Bhavan 
Tel (0) 94433 42241 Heritage
SHANTINIKETAN: Mark & ∑ chandoorisai.com 40 MC Rd, Uzanbazar, 781001
Meadows  At this rustic guesthouse Tel (0) 99540 24165/(0) 99540 23426
Rural retreat located in the heart of Odisha's ∑ heritagehomeassam.com
Sriniketan Rd, 731204 tribal belt, one can find local Set in an Assamese bungalow
Tel (03463) 264 871-2 crafts for sale. The rooms are with verandahs and a roof
∑ markandmeadows.com inspired by the architecture of terrace, this guesthouse offers
Red-tiled cottages are set in the Poraja and Kondha tribes. old-world charm and home-
landscaped grounds at this cooked meals.
family-friendly resort.
KONARK: Yatri Niwas  IMPHAL: The Classic Hotel 
SUNDERBANS: Sunderban Comfort lodging Great value
Jungle Camp  AT/PO Konark, 752111 North AOC, 795001
Eco-friendly Tel (06758) 236 821 Tel (0385) 244 3967/9
Bali Island, 24 Parganas South ∑ panthanivas.com ∑ theclassichotel.in
Tel (033) 2454 9719 This no-frills, government-run Located in the centre of the city,
∑ helptourism.com place is located right next to near the markets and historic
Packages at this lush, green the Sun Temple and offers clean Kangla Fort, is this modern hotel
lodge, known for its native animal and comfortable rooms. with functional rooms.
Key to Price Guide see page 694
694-703_EW_India.indd 698 26/04/17 11:55 am


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