(DK Eyewitness) Travel Guide - Europe

BUD APEST  699


from his life are depicted masterpieces from the
behind the altar. A painting collection can be seen at the
to the right of the main Hungarian National Gallery.
entrance shows István
dedicating Hungary to the 0 House of Terror
Virgin Mary. His mummified Museum
forearm is kept in the Chapel
of the Holy Right Hand. Andrássy út 60. Tel (1) 374 26 00.
The main entrance to the q Vörösmarty utca. v 4, 6. Open
basilica is a massive door, Tue–Sun. 8 In English and German.
decorated with carved heads 7 ∑ terrorhaza.hu
of the 12 apostles. The dome
reaches 96 m (315 ft) and is The Terrorháza (House of Terror)
visible all over Budapest. is a well thought-out and
Tapestry of Árpád and Magyar chiefs in the sensitively presented museum
8 Parliament Parliament building documenting the fascist and
communist dictatorial regimes
Kossuth Lajos tér 1–3. Tel (1) 441 44 Congress Hall, a virtual mirror in 20th-century Hungary and is
15. q Kossuth tér. @ 70, 78. v 2, image of the National Assembly also a memorial to the victims of
2A. Open daily. Closed during Hall. Both have public galleries. these regimes; those detained,
ceremonies. & 7 - Since 2000, the royal insignia interrogated, tortured or killed
∑ parlament.hu
have been displayed here. in the very same building.
The Parliament (Országház) is 9 Museum of q Vajdahunyad
Hungary’s largest building – Fine Arts Castle
268 m (880 ft) long, 96 m (315 ft)
high, with 691 rooms. Built Hősök tere. Tel (1) 469 71 00. q Városliget. Tel (1) 363 11 17.
between 1884 and 1902, it was Hősök tere. @ 20E, 30, 30A 105. v q Széchenyi fürdő. Open Tue–Sun.
based on London’s Houses of 72, 75, 79. Closed for renovations. & & 8 7 ∑ mmgm.hu
Parliament (see p53). Although 8 7 ∑ szepmuveszeti.hu
the facade is Neo-Gothic, the This fantastical castle stands
ground plan follows Baroque In 1870, the state bought a among trees at the edge of the
conventions, with a magnificent magnificent collection of lake in the City Park (Városliget).
dome at the center. Beneath it paintings from the Esterházy It is in fact a complex of
is the Domed Hall, off which is family. Enriched by donations pavilions illustrating the
the Gobelin Hall, with a Gobelin and acquisitions, the collection evolution of Hungarian
tapestry of Árpád (see p691) and moved to its present location in architecture. Created for the
fellow Magyar chiefs taking a 1906. As well as great European 1896 Millennium Celebrations
blood oath. The greatest artists paintings from every era from as a temporary exhibit, it proved
of the day decorated the the Middle Ages to the 20th so popular that it was rebuilt
interior of the building, and century, there are Egyptian, permanently, in brick.
there are some spectacular Greek, and Roman antiquities. The pavilions are grouped
ceiling frescoes by Károly Lotz There are also paintings by in chronological order of
and György Kiss. Holbein and Dürer, and seven style: Romanesque, Gothic,
Between the Domed Hall and works by El Greco. Renaissance, Baroque, and so
the south wing is the National The museum is closed for on, but the elements are linked
Assembly Hall. On the renovation work until early to suggest a single, cohesive
opposite side is the 2018. During this period, design. Details from more than
20 of Hungary’s best-loved
buildings are reproduced.













View across the lake of the Gothic (left) and Renaissance (right) sections of the Vajdahunyad Castle




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2 Szentendre
* 23,000. £ 5 HÉV from Battyhány
tér. @ 4 from Budapest.
n Dumtsa Jenő utca 22 Tel (26) 317
965. ∑ szentendreprogram.hu
Szentendre was settled by
Serbian refugees, who first
came here in the 14th century.
After the Turkish occupation
of Belgrade in 1690, more Serbs
arrived, ushering in a period of
great prosperity.
The Slavic interiors of the
town’s many churches are filled
with incense, icons, and candle-
light. Blagovestenska Church
on Fő tér, the main square, has a
magnificent iconostasis, while The Tihany Peninsula, jutting out into Lake Balaton
other sites worth visiting are
Belgrade Cathedral, for Sunday The 16th-century marble wide choice of tourist
Mass, and the bishop’s palace. Bakócz burial chapel, next to accommodations. The largest
Next door, the Museum of the southern entrance, was resort is Siófok, characterized
Serbian Art contains displays of built by Florentine craftsmen. by high-rise buildings, lively
icons and other religious artifacts. South of the cathedral, the bars, and noisy nightlife. By
Many artists have made their remains of Esztergom’s Castle day, windsurfing, sailing, and
home in Szentendre, including date from the 10th century. pleasure cruises are available.
the Hungarian ceramic artist, In the picturesque old town, Those in search of a more
Margit Kovács (1902–77). Her Esztergom’s central square is peaceful atmosphere should
work can be seen at the Margit bordered by many lively head for Balatonvilágos, set
Kovács Museum. pavement cafés. atop attractive wooded cliffs,
or Balatonberény, which has
E Margit Kovács Museum + Castle a nudist beach. Southwest of
Vastagh György utca 1. Tel 36 20 779 Szent István tér 1. Tel (33) 415 986. Balatonberény, the tiny
6659. Open Mon–Sun. & 8 Open Tue–Sun. & lake known as Kis-Balaton
(Little Balaton) is a protected
3 Esztergom 4 Lake Balaton nature reserve, home to over
80 species of birds.
* 28,000. £ @ 4 from Budapest. Siófok: £ @ g to/from Balaton- One of the most popular
füred. n Fő tér 11, Siófok Tel (84) 696 destinations on Balaton’s
St. István, Hungary’s first Christian 236. Balatonfüred: £ @ g to/from northern shore is the spa town
king, was baptized in Esztergom Siófok and Tihany. n Blaha Lujza utca of Balatonfüred, whose mineral
and later crowned here on 5, Balatonfüred. springs have been used for
Christmas Day in AD 1000. curative purposes since Roman
Dominating the city’s skyline Every summer Lake Balaton, times. From here, you can visit
is the huge Catholic Cathedral, Europe’s largest fresh-water the Tihany Peninsula, which
built in the early 19th century on lake, attracts thousands of became Hungary’s first national
the site of a 12th-century church. vacationers. The southern park in 1957, and boasts some
In the treasury are religious shore is the more developed, of the most beautiful scenery
artifacts from the original church. with sandy beaches and a in the area.
At the far northwestern tip of
the lake, the university town of
Keszthely has three beaches,
as well as a number of other
attractions, including the
Balaton Museum, which covers
the history and natural history
of the region, and the imposing
Festetics Palace. A 15-minute
drive from Keszthely brings you
to Hévíz, an old 19th-century
spa resort, where you can bathe
in the world’s second largest
Esztergom’s vast cathedral, on the banks of the Danube River thermal lake.
For hotels and restaurants see p704 and p705


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HUNGAR Y  701

5 Pécs affords stunning views of the
* 146,000. £ @ n Széchenyi town and surrounding vineyards.
tér 7 Tel (72) 511 232. Eger’s 40-m- (130-ft-) minaret
is a relic of 16th-century
First a Celtic, then a Roman Turkish occupation, while the
settlement, Pécs was later splendid Baroque Minorite
ruled by the Turks from 1543 Church on Dobó István tér
until 1686. Several monuments dates from the 1770s.
testify to these different periods Eger Castle was built in the
of Pécs’ history. 13th century following the
The city’s main square, Mongol invasion. The castle
Széchenyi tér, is overlooked by complex includes the Bishop’s
the Catholic Church, formerly Palace (1470), which houses a
the Mosque of Gazi Kasim museum of historical artifacts,
Pasha, built under Turkish Impressive candlelit interior of Pécs’ and underground casemates.
occupation. Inside, a delicately Neo-Romanesque cathedral
decorated mihrab (prayer niche) + Eger Castle
serves as a reminder of the museums include the Egri Vár. Tel (36) 312 744.
building’s origins. Behind the Csontváry Museum, showing Open daily. &
church is the Archaeological works by the artist Kosztka
Museum, whose exhibits date Tivadar Csontváry (1853–1919), Environs
from prehistoric times to the and the Vasarely Museum, Just west of the town, in the
Magyar conquest. dedicated to Hungarian Op Szépasszony Valley, you can
On Dom tér are Pécs’ four- artist Victor Vasarely (1908–97). sample the region’s wines,
towered, Neo-Romanesque including the famous dry red,
Cathedral, which stands on the E Archaeological Museum Egri Bikavér, or Bull’s Blood.
foundations of an 11th-century Széchenyi tér 12. Tel (72) 312 719.
basilica, and the Neo-Renaissance Open Tue–Sat. & 7 Tokaj
Bishop’s Palace (1770). South of E Vasarely Museum
here, on Szent István tér, a Káptalan utca 3. Tel (30) 934 61 27. * 4,500. £ @ n Serház utca 1
stairway leads to the ruins of a Open Tue–Sun. & Tel (70) 388 8870.
4th-century underground ∑ tokaj-turizmus.hu
chapel with wonderful frescoes. 6 Eger
On nearby Apáca utca, Tokaj is located at the
excavations unearthed a * 54,000. £ @ n Bajcsy- center of one of
collection of Roman tombs, Zsilinszky utca 9 Tel (36) 517 715. Hungary’s most
which were declared a UNESCO important wine-
World Heritage Site in 2000. One of the most popular growing areas. Tokaji
Remains of the city’s medieval tourist destinations in Hungary, dessert wines owe
walls, erected Eger is famous for its world- their distinctive full-
after an invasion class wines. bodied flavor to
by the Mongols At the heart of the town, on the volcanic soil in
in the 13th Eszterházy tér, are the Neo- which the vines
century, include classical Cathedral (1830s) and grow, and a type of
a 15th-century the Lyceum. A highlight of the mold peculiar to
barbican. Pécs’ latter is the observatory, which the region. The
best cellars to visit Hungarian
for a tasting are dessert wine
the Rákóczi Cellar, Tokaji Aszú
run by a foreign
company, and the privately
owned Hímesudvar at No. 2
Bem József út.
Tokaj has a synagogue and
a Jewish cemetery, relics of
the period before World War II,
when the town had a large
Jewish population. The Tokaj
Museum is worth a visit.
 Rákóczi Cellar
Kossuth tér 15. Tel (47) 352 408.
Open Apr–Oct: daily (call in
Eger’s Baroque Minorite church, towering over Dobó István tér advance). 8




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Practical & Travel Information avoid these areas at night.
In the case of an emergency
Tourism is an important part of the Hungarian economy, while on vacation, the relevant
and as a result, there have been vast improvements in numbers to call are listed in the
communications, banking facilities, and public transportation. directory opposite.
The biggest problem tourists face is the formidable language
barrier. However, staff at many tourist offices, hotels, and Health Issues
other attractions, usually speak English or German. No special vaccinations are
required. Allergy sufferers and
people with breathing difficulties
When to Visit
to museums, the zoo and funfair, who intend to visit Budapest
The most popular times to visit and on selected guided tours, should take account of the
Hungary are between April and and 10 to 20 percent discount summer smog conditions,
the end of June, and from the on selected cultural events and which are particulary acute in
middle of August until October. at certain restaurants. Pest. Those susceptible might
July and August can be A modern addition to the city’s consider staying in the castle
extremely hot, and it is almost public transport system is a metro district, where cars are banned,
unbearable to stay in Budapest, line that runs between south- or retreating to the wooded
although away from the capital, west Buda and northeast Pest. Buda hills.
the heat is less severe. From For treatments for minor
November until March, many Visa Requirements ailments, visit a pharmacy
museums have shorter opening (Gyógyszertár or Patika). If
hours or may close altogether. Citizens of the US, Canada, your nearest store is closed, it
Australia, and New Zealand should display a list of 24-hour
need only a valid passport to emergency pharmacies.
Tourist Information visit Hungary for up to 90 days. People with heart conditions
Before leaving for Hungary, EU citizens need only an who wish to use Hungary’s
you can obtain various identity card. thermal baths should seek a
information leaflets and maps For more information about physician’s advice beforehand.
from the Hungarian National visas and extended visits, see
Tourist Office, which has the Hungarian Ministry of Facilities for the Disabled
branches worldwide. Foreign Affairs’ website (www.
Within Hungary, there are kormany.hu/en). Hungary’s public transportation
tourist information offices in systems, museums, and other
most large towns. In Budapest, Personal Security attractions are gradually being
advice on sightseeing, renovated to make them
accommodation, and cultural Hungary is on the whole a safe wheelchair-friendly, but people
events is given by the offices country to travel in. As in most with disabilities may still
of Tourinform Budapest. cities that attract large numbers encounter accessibility problems.
Visitors to the capital may of tourists, pickpockets operate For more detailed information
wish to invest in the Budapest in Budapest, targeting crowded contact the Hungarian
Card, which entitles card- metro stations, buses, and Disabled Association.
holders, along with one child shopping malls. Rákóczi tér
under 14, to unlimited use of and Mátyás tér, in district VIII,
the city’s public transport are traditional hangouts for Banking and Currency
system, discounts on entry prostitutes; lone women should The Hungarian currency is
the forint (HUF or Ft). If
The Climate of Hungary you need to change money,
BUDAPEST the best rates of exchange
Hungary enjoys some of are offered by banks and
the sunniest weather in bureaux de change. Banks are
Europe, with an average of °C/ºF generally open from 9am to
eight hours of sunshine a 26/79 5pm Monday to Friday, with
day in summer. June, July, 15/59 15/59 15/59 a few opening on Saturday
and August are the hottest mornings, too. Credit cards
months. In winter, temperatures 5/41 6/43 2/36 are more widely accepted
can fall well below freezing 6 10 5 -3/27 now than before; however,
2
and there may also be snowfall. hrs hrs hrs hrs their use is still not as
Hungary has comparatively
low rainfall. June usually 42 56 40 40 widespread as elsewhere in
gets the most rain, while mm mm mm mm Europe and you shouldn’t
the fall is the driest season. month Apr Jul Oct Jan expect to be able to use them
everywhere. It’s wise to carry
a little extra cash.



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HUNGAR Y  703


Communications three daily scheduled flights Thessaloníki in Greece. Within
The Hungarian telephone from London. Many low-cost Hungary, local trains are
system used to be notoriously airlines, such as Ryanair, easyJet categorized according to speed:
bad, but improvements are now and Wizz Air, also operate daily “slow” (személy), “speedy” (sebes),
slowly being made. Phonecards, flights from London. or “fast” (gyors). There are also
which are available from Budapest airport is located modern intercity services
tobacconists, post offices, petrol 16 km (10 miles) from the between Budapest and the
stations, and some newspaper center of Budapest. The efficient larger cities. A number of
kiosks, are the best option when Airport Minibus Shuttle will concessionary fares are available
using public phones, although take passengers from the for those planning on doing a
some booths still accept coins. airport to any address in the lot of rail travel in Hungary.
Post offices open from 8am capital. Taxis are a quick and
to 6pm, Monday to Friday, comfortable way of getting
and on Saturday mornings. into the city. Traveling by Bus
Service can be slow and there International buses to all
are often long lines, so be Rail Travel European destinations depart
prepared to wait. from Népliget station. Nationally,
The Hungarian national rail buses are run by Volánbusz,
network is very efficient, with which operates routes to most
Flying to Hungary
trains invariably departing and cities and towns in Hungary.
Direct scheduled flights arriving on time. Budapest has
between New York’s JFK airport direct international rail links Traveling by Car
and Budapest’s Liszt Ferenc with 25 other capital cities,
international airport are Keleti pu station handling the To rent a car in Hungary you must
operated by many airlines. majority of the international be aged 21 years or over, and
Major airlines flying from the US traffic. High-speed trains to have held a full driver’s license for
and Canada to Hungary include Vienna, the main at least a year. An international
Air France, British Airways, communications hub for driver’s license helps also. Most of
KLM, and Lufthansa, although western Europe, depart the big, international firms have
services usually entail a transfer approximately every three offices at the airport in Budapest,
or touch-down in another hours and take around 2 hours or you can arrange rental at
European city. British Airways 25 minutes. There are also car- hotels and travel agencies
and Air France each operate train services from Keleti to throughout the country.
DIRECTORY
Hungarian Tel (1) 392 33 60. Police easyJet
National Tourist ∑ canada.hu Tel 107. Tel (1) 255 07 91.
Offices Ireland Tel 0843-104 5000 (UK).
Hungary 1054 Szabadság tér 7, Facilities for the ∑ easyjet.com
Bank Center, Platina Tower, Disabled
∑ gotohungary.com KLM
6th Floor, Budapest.
UK Tel (1) 301 49 60. Hungarian Disabled Tel (1) 429 22 45.
46 Eaton Place, ∑ embassyof Association Tel 800-618 0104 (US).
London SW1X 8AL. ireland.hu 1032 San Marco utca 76, ∑ klm.hu
Tel 020-7823 0412. Budapest. Tel (1) 388 23 Lufthansa
∑ gotohungary.co.uk UK 87. ∑ meosz.hu
1051 Harmincad utca 6, Tel (1) 429 22 00.
US Budapest. Tel 800-645 3880 (US).
223 East 52nd street, Tel (1) 266 28 88. Air Travel ∑ lufthansa.com
New York, NY 10022. ∑ britishembassy.hu
Tel 212-695 1221. Liszt Ferenc Airport Ryanair
∑ gotohungary.com US Tel (1) 296 70 00. ∑ ryanair.com
1054 Szabadság tér 12, Air France
Tourist Budapest. Tel (1) 475 44 Wizz Air
Information 00. ∑ hungary. Tel (1) 429 22 44. Tel 0906-959 00 02.
usembassy.gov Tel 020-7660 0337 (UK). ∑ wizzair.com
Tourinform Budapest Tel 800-237 2747 (US).
Sütö utca 2, Budapest V. Emergency ∑ airfrance.hu
Tel (1) 438 80 80. Numbers
British Airways
Embassies Ambulance Tel (1) 777 47 47.
Tel 104. Tel 0844-493 0787 (UK).
Canada Tel 800-247 9297 (US).
1027 Budapest, Fire
Ganz utca 12–14. Tel 105. ∑ britishairways.com


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704  HUNGAR Y

Where to Stay

PEST: Leo Panzió  Price Guide
Budapest Modern Map C4 Prices are based on one night’s stay in
Kossuth Lajos utca 2/a, 1053 high season for a standard double room,
BUDA: Ábel Panzió  Tel (1) 266 90 41 inclusive of service charges and taxes.
Budget Map B5 ∑ leopanzio.hu  under 15,000 HUF
Ábel Jenő utca 9, 1113 A superb pension in the heart of  15,000 to 35,000 HUF
Tel (1) 209 25 37 Pest, Leo Panzió offers exemplary  over 35,000 HUF
∑ abelpanzio.hu service and good value for money.
This restored family villa in a leafy PEST: Mamaison
street in Buda offers charming PEST: Astoria  Hotel Andrássy 
rooms and good service. Boutique Map D4 Boutique Map D2
Kossuth Lajos utca 19–21, 1053 Andrássy út 111, 1063
BUDA: BI & BI Guesthouse  Tel (1) 889 60 00 Tel (1) 462 21 00
Budget ∑ danubiushotels.com ∑ mamaison.com
Retek utca 16, 1024 In a predominantly Art Nouveau Situated in a Bauhaus-style
Tel (1) 786 09 55 building, the Astoria has spacious building, the Andrassy offers
∑ bibipanzio.hu rooms, an elegant café, and a lovely elegance, intimacy, superb
Stay in neat rooms and enjoy a Neo-Baroque breakfast room. service, and a touch of romance.
decent breakfast at this friendly
place close to the Castle District. PEST: Bohém Art Hotel 
Boutique Map C4
BUDA: Burg  Molnar út 35, 1056 Rest of Hungary
Modern Map B3 Tel (1) 327 90 20
Szentháromság tér 7, 1014 ∑ bohemarthotel.hu EGER: Senator Ház 
Tel (1) 212 02 69 A superbly central design hotel Modern
∑ burghotelbudapest.com that incorporates minimalist Dobó tér 11, 3300
The Burg provides small but interiors with artworks and kitschy Tel (36) 411 711
comfortable en-suite rooms, details. Good buffet breakfast. ∑ senatorhaz.hu
several of which boast fabulous In an atmospheric building from
views of the Mátyás Church. PEST: K & K Opera  1753, this hotel enjoys a main-
Modern Map C3 square location and boasts cozy
DK Choice Révay utca 24, 1065 rooms, many with castle views.
Tel (1) 269 02 22
BUDA: Gellért  ∑ kkhotels.com KESTHELY: Helikon 
Luxury Map C4 Located close to the Opera House, Room with a view
Szent Gellért tér 1, 1111 this hotel boasts a splendid Balaton-part 5, 8360
Tel (1) 889 55 00 façade and offers comfy rooms. Tel (83) 889 600
∑ danubiushotels.com ∑ hotelhelikon.hu
Home to Hungarian high PEST: Kempinski Corvinus  The modern high-rise Helikon
society since World War I, this Luxury Map C4 offers plush rooms, many with
legendary spa hotel has both Erzsébet tér 7, 1051 superb views across the water.
indoor and outdoor pools fed Tel (1) 429 37 77
by healing spring waters. The ∑ kempinski.com PÉCS: Palatinus 
rooms are opulently decorated, An exclusive hotel popular Boutique
and the social areas feature Art with visiting heads of state, the Király utca 5, 7621
Nouveau decor. Massages and Corvinus has luxurious rooms Tel (72) 889 400
other wellness treatments are and a host of excellent facilities. ∑ danubiushotels.com
available. Wonderful views The Palatinus is decorated with a
across the Danube. mixture of Art Nouveau and Art
Deco styles. Sumptuous rooms
and a basement spa center.
BUDA: Lánchíd 19 Design
Hotel  PÉCS: Corso Hotel 
Boutique Map B3 Modern
Lánchíd utca 19, 1013 Koller utca 8, 7626
Tel (1) 419 19 00 Tel (72) 421 900
∑ lanchid19hotel.com ∑ corsohotel.hu
Award-winning hotel with views Attractive hotel near the town
of the Danube, comfortable center, decorated with Zsolnay
rooms, and a terrace restaurant. ceramics and locally produced art.
PEST: Hipster Hostel  SIÓFOK: Janus
Budget Map D4 Boutique Hotel & Spa 
Baross utca 3, 1081 Boutique
Tel (1) 788 94 41 Fő utca 93–95, 8600
∑ hipsterhostel.com Tel (84) 312 546
A welcoming hostel on the rim ∑ janushotel.hu
of central Pest, the Hipster has a Individually designed rooms at
good mixture of different-sized Colorful artworks decorate the walls at the this hotel have themes ranging
rooms, all attractively decorated. Bohém Art Hotel, Budapest from Japanese to Gothic.

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TR A VELERS ’ NEEDS  705

Where to Eat and Drink

PEST: Café Kör  Price Guide
Budapest European Map C3 Prices are for an average three-course
Sas utca 17, 1051 meal for one, including half a bottle of
BUDA: Régi Sipos  Tel (1) 311 00 53 house wine, and all extra charges.
Seafood A popular, good-value bistro that  under 3,000 HUF
Lajos utca 46, 1036 serves Hungarian and European  3,000 to 5,000 HUF
Tel (1) 247 63 92 mains, as well as fine salads and  over 5,000 HUF
Set apart from the tourist a handful of vegetarian dishes..
trail, Régi Sipos serves up fish PEST: Costes 
specialties such as pontypörkölt PEST: Vakvarjú  Hungarian Map D4
(carp goulash) and harcsapaprikás International Map C3 Ráday utca 4, 1092
(catfish stew), with cheesy Paulay Ede út 7, 1061 Tel (1) 219 06 96
lasagne-like noodle sheets. Tel (1) 268 08 88 The first restaurant in Budapest
Providing excellent views of one to get a Michelin star offers
BUDA: Alabárdos Étterem  of Budapest’s busiest streets, innovative cuisine based on
Hungarian Map B3 this lively restaurant offers seasonal, local produce in an
Országház utca 2, 1014 inexpensive international fare. elegant setting. Diners can
Tel (1) 356 08 51 Closed Sun choose from four- to seven-
Set in an outstanding Gothic PEST: Károlyi Étterem  course menus, accompanied by
building, Alabárdos serves classic Hungarian Map C4 Hungarian wines. Book ahead.
cuisine from days gone by. Károlyi Mihály utca 16, 1053
Everything, from the service to the Tel (1) 328 02 40 PEST: Menza 
presentation, exudes elegance. Enjoy sophisticated dining in the Hungarian Map D3
courtyard of the Károlyi Palace, Liszt Ferenc tér 2, 1061
BUDA: Búsuló with a traditional menu of Tel (1) 413 14 82
Juhász Etterem  Hungarian classics. Popular with Classic Hungarian dishes are
Hungarian Map B4 wedding parties at weekends. made with fresh produce and
Kelenhegyi út 58, 1118 a postmodern twist at this
Tel (1) 209 16 49 PEST: Kárpátia  friendly restaurant on a lively
There are spectacular views Hungarian Map C4 square. Try the goulash soup.
from this restaurant on the Ferenciek tere 7–8, 1053 The 1960s decor provides a
slopes of Gellért Hill. Expect Tel (1) 317 35 96 fitting backdrop.
traditional Hungarian specialties Ostentatiously decorated with
and live gypsy music. Transylvanian folk motifs, the
19th-century Kárpátia is a long-
BUDA: Fekete Holló  established favorite. The goulash Rest of Hungary
Hungarian Map B3 is very high quality.
Országház utca 10, 1014 EGER: Fehérszarvas
Tel (1) 356 23 67 DK Choice Vadásztanya 
Located on Buda Hill, this is a European
gem of a traditional restaurant, PEST: Bock Bisztró  Klapka György utca 8, 3300
where the kitsch medieval decor Hungarian Map D3 Tel (36) 411 129
fails to detract from the excellent Erzsébet körút 43–49, 1073 Eger’s silver-service restaurant
food. It can get very busy. Tel (1) 321 03 40 Closed Sun is a little way from the center but
With an interior that is lined well worth the trek. Feast on
PEST: Bohémtanya  with cookery books, Bock game, such as venison and
Hungarian Map C3 Bisztró has made old-school wild boar, and freshwater fish
Paulay Ede utca 6, 1061 Hungarian cooking sexy again. in a cellar filled with hunting
Tel (1) 267 35 04 Traditional mains such as trophies.
Savor hearty Hungarian food in borjúpaprikás (veal paprikash)
pleasant surroundings. Diners are are served alongside European KECSKEMÉT: Kecskeméti
seated in wooden alcoves large and East–West fusion dishes. Csárda és Borház 
enough for eight, and that might Bock is also a wine shop. Hungarian
mean sharing a table with others. Kölcsey utca 7, 6000
Tel (76) 488 686
One of the best-regarded
eateries in the country, this
place specializes in generous
portions of the paprika-rich
cuisine of the great plain.
PÉCS: Cellárium 
International
Hunyadi János utca 2, 7621
Tel (76) 314 596
Housed in catacombs that once
provided shelter from attacking
Ottomans, Cellárium offers
delicious local specialties and
Diners enjoying traditional Hungarian cuisine at Bock Bisztró, Budapest classic international dishes.

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CENTR AL AND EASTERN EUROPE  707

POLAND

Located between Russia and Germany, Poland has always been a fiercely
contested land. Released from the eastern bloc in 1989, the country is now
developing rapidly, especially in the cities of Warsaw, Krakow, Gdańsk, and
Wrocław. Monuments attest to a stormy history, but Poland is famed for its
virtues, especially the generosity of its people and the excellence of its vodka.
Although situated on the plains of central Christians. Religious denomination does
Europe, Poland has an extremely varied not necessarily coincide with ethnic
landscape. Alpine scenery predominates in identity, although Belorussians tend to
the Tatra Mountains to the south, while the be Orthodox, while Ukrainians belong
north is dominated by lakes. Mountain to the Greek Catholic (Uniate) Church.
lovers can make use of the well-developed
infrastructure of hostels and shelters, such History
as those found in the Tatras. The countless Poland’s borders have changed
lakes of Warmia and Mazuria, collectively continually with the course of history.
known as the Land of a Thousand Lakes, The origins of the Polish nation go back
are a haven for watersports enthusiasts. to the 10th century, when Slav tribes
Poland’s inhabitants, who number living in the area of Gniezno united under
almost 39 million, all but constitute a the Piast dynasty, which ruled Poland until
single ethnic group, with minorities 1370. Mieszko I converted to Christianity
accounting for less than 4 percent of the in 966, thus bringing his kingdom into
population. The largest minorities are Christian Europe, and made Poznań the
Belorussians and Ukrainians, who inhabit seat of Poland’s first bishop. The Piast
the east of the country, and Germans, dynasty ruled Poland with variable
who are concentrated mainly around the fortune and embroiled the nation in
city of Opole in Silesia. The majority of domestic quarrels for 150 years. After this
Poles are Catholic, but large regions of dynasty died out, the great Lithuanian
the country, such as Cieszyn Silesia, have prince Jagiełło took the Polish throne and
a substantial Protestant population. In founded a new dynasty. The treaty with
the east, there are also many Orthodox Lithuania signed in 1385 initiated the long























Statue of the great 19th-century poet and patriot Adam Mickiewicz in Market Square, Krakow
Altarpiece depicting the Assumption in St. Mary’s Church, Krakow, carved by Veit Stoss (1447–1533)



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708  CENTR AL AND EASTERN EUROPE

it was considerably weakened, and its
time of dominance was over. In 1795, it
was partitioned by Russia, Prussia, and
Austria, and was wiped off the map for
more than 100 years. Attempts to wrest
independence by insurrection were
unsuccessful, and Poland did not regain
its sovereignty until 1918. The arduous
Solidarity demonstrators staging a mass rally during a papal visit process of rebuilding and uniting the
to Poland in 1987
nation was still incomplete when, at
process of consolidation between the outbreak of World War II, a six-year
these nations, culminating in 1569 period of German and Soviet occupation
with the signing of the Union of Lublin. began. The price that Poland paid was
Nevertheless, the so-called Republic very high: millions were murdered,
of Two Nations (Rzeczpospolita Obojga including virtually its entire Jewish Karlskrona,
Narodów) lasted until 1795. In 1572, the population. The country suffered Baltic Nynashamn
Sea
Jagiellonian dynasty died out, after devastation and there were huge terri-
which the Polish authorities introduced torial losses, which were only partly Ystad Słupsk Gdynia RUSSIA Vilnius
elective kings, with the nobility having compensated by the Allies’ decision to 6 1 Gdańsk 8 LITHUANIA
the right to vote. move the border westwards. After the war, Świnoujście Koszalin Suwałki
11
The 17th century was dominated by wars Poland was subjugated by the Soviet 22 7 16 61
with Sweden, Russia, and the Ottoman Union, but the socialist economy proved Szczecin 25 W da 16 Olsztyn
Empire, and although the country survived, ineffective. The formation of Solidarity A6 10 Bydgoszcz A1 53 Łomża 65
(Solidarność) in 1980 accelerated the Odra Piła Noteć Toruń 7 Ostrołęka Białystok
22
10
KEY DATES IN POLISH HISTORY pace of change, which was completed Berlin Gorzów 5 Włocławek Wkra Ciechanów 60 8 Bug 19
Wielkopolski
966 Adoption of Christianity under Mieszko I when Poland regained its freedom after A2 Poznań W isł a 61 WARSAW BELARUS
1025 Coronation of Bolesław the Brave, first king the June 1989 elections. 3 A2 Konin 60 2 (Warszawa) 2
of Poland In 1999, Poland became a member Zielona Góra POLAND Skierniewice A2 Siedlce Biała Minsk
1320 The unification of the Polish state of NATO, and in 2004, it joined the Odra Leszno Łodź 17 Podlaska
18 Kalisz Pilica
1385 Poland and Lithuania unite under the Treaty European Union. GERMANY 5 A1 8 7 Wisła
of Krewo 11 Sieradz
Dresden Legnica 8 Piotrków Radom Lublin 12
1569 The Union of Lublin creates the Polish- Language and Culture A4 Wrocław Warta 1 Trybunalski Chełm Kiev
Lithuanian Republic of Two Nations Jelenia Częstochowa Kielce
1596 The capital moves from Krakow to Warsaw The legacy of more than 100 years of Góra Wałbrzych Opole Tarnobrzeg Zamość
1655 Beginning of the “Deluge” (the Swedish partition rule is still visible in Poland’s cultural A4 7 17
occupation), ending in 1660 landscape. Russian, Prussian, and Austrian Prague 45 Katowice W isła 19 L'viv
1772–1918 Poland divided three times between administrations left their mark not only on Auschwitz (Oświęcim) Krakow Tarnów A4 Rzeszów
Russia, Prussia, and Austria. The final partition (1795) rural and urban architecture, but also on CZECH 1 (Kraków) 9 Przemyśl
is made after a Polish uprising led by Tadeusz REPUBLIC Bielsko- 12 Krosno
Biała
Kościuszko the customs and mentality of the people. Nowy UKRAINE
Sącz
1918 Poland regains independence The Poles have a deep reverence for Bratislava
1939 Soviet and German forces invade religious symbols and rituals, and the SLOVAKIA
1940 Auschwitz-Birkenau established; 1.5 million presence of the church can be seen
Poles and Jews are gassed during the war everywhere, either in the form of lavish
1945 Communist government takes control Baroque buildings or images of the Black
1980 Solidarity formed, led by Lech Wałęsa Madonna. Wayside shrines are also a
1989 First free post-war elections are held. Lech regular feature.
Wałęsa wins the presidency by a landslide Polish is a West Slavic language closely
1999 Poland joins NATO related to Slovak and Czech. Many of its
2004 Poland joins EU
words (such as Solidarność) are borrowed
2011 Poland holds EU rotating presidency for the
first time from Latin, although German, Italian, and
English words are also common.



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POLAND  709

Exploring Poland

Bordering the Baltic Sea, Poland is one of the largest
countries of Central Europe, with a population of around
39 million. Warsaw, the capital, is located at the center of
Poland, on the banks of the River Vistula (Wisła). Its location
makes it an ideal base for visiting other cities, such as
Krakow, the ancient royal capital; Gdańsk, the Hanseatic
city whose shipyards gave birth to Solidarity; and Poznań,
one of the oldest Polish cities. Krakow is one of the
country’s greatest treasures, offering excursions to the
Polish mountains and the Krakow-Częstochowa Valley.

Sights at a Glance
1 Warsaw pp710–15 Children in traditional dress on a Polish
2 Krakow pp716–19 public holiday, Krakow
Karlskrona,
Baltic Nynashamn
Sea
Ystad RUSSIA Vilnius
Słupsk Gdynia
6 1 Gdańsk LITHUANIA
Koszalin Suwałki 8
Świnoujście 11
22 7 16 61
16 Olsztyn
Szczecin 25
W da
53
A6 10 Bydgoszcz A1 Łomża 65
Odra 22 Piła Noteć Toruń 10 7 Ostrołęka Białystok
Gorzów 5 Ciechanów 60 8 19
Berlin Wielkopolski Włocławek Wkra Bug
61
Poznań WARSAW BELARUS
A2 A2 W isł a
Konin 60 (Warszawa)
2 2
POLAND A2 Siedlce Minsk
3
Zielona Góra Odra Leszno Skierniewice Biała
Podlaska
Kalisz Łodź 17
18 Pilica
5 A1 8 Wisła
GERMANY 7
Sieradz
Dresden Legnica 8 11 Piotrków Radom Lublin 12
A4 1 Trybunalski Chełm Kiev
Wrocław Warta
Jelenia Częstochowa Kielce
Góra Wałbrzych Zamość
Opole Tarnobrzeg
A4 17
Prague 45 7 W isła L'viv
Katowice A4 19
Auschwitz (Oświęcim) Krakow Tarnów
CZECH 1 (Kraków) Rzeszów
REPUBLIC Bielsko- 12 Krosno 9 Przemyśl
Biała Nowy UKRAINE
Sącz
Bratislava
SLOVAKIA
Key
Highway
0 kilometers 100 Major road
0 miles 100 Railroad
The Neo-Classical entrance to Warsaw’s International border
Wilanów Palace and Park
For hotels and restaurants see p722 and p723 For keys to symbols see back flap
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710  CENTR AL AND EASTERN EUROPE


1 Warsaw DZIKA S TAW KI MURA Białystok
NISKA Olsztyn
Warsaw is believed to have been founded in the late NOWS KA SANGUSZKI Praga
13th century, when Duke Bolesław built a castle here MIŁA LEWARTOWSKIEGO KONWIKTORSKA SAMBORSKA Poznań Wola E77 634 E30
GEN. WŁADYSŁAWA ANDERSA
overlooking the Vistula. It became capital of Poland in AL. JANA PAWŁA II KARMELICKA ST. DUBOIS SAPIEŻYŃSKA ZAKROCZYMSKA PRZYRYNEK 580
1596, making it one of Europe’s youngest capital cities. ZAMENHOFA WAŁOWA
KOŚCIELNA
The present castle and other grand buildings of the Old NALEWKI FRANCISZKAŃSKA RYNEK E30 Powiśle Brest
Town date largely from the Renaissance and Baroque MORDECHAJA ANIELEWICZA KOŹLA NOWEGO Łódź Śródmieście Wis∏a 801
MIASTA
periods. By the end of World War II, some 80 per cent of PAWIA ŚWIĘT OJERSKA BONIFRATERSKA ŚWIĘTOJERSKA FRETA STARA
the buildings had been reduced to rubble. What you see DZIELNA MOSTOWA BOLEŚĆ 719
today is the product of meticulous reconstruction N OWO LI P KI OGRÓD DŁUGA BRZOZOWA WYBRZEŻE GDAŃSKIE Ochota
undertaken during the Communist era. Warsaw is rich in MURANOW KRASIŃSKICH
RYNEK
museums and sights and the Varsovians are immensely BOHATERÓW GETTA STAREGO BUGAJ WŁochy 724
MIASTA
proud of their history of resistance to oppression. The KARMELICKA Ratusz DŁUGA SCHILLERA PIWNA JEZUICKA KANONIA E77 Okęcie 723
center has been declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site. MIODOWA PODWALE Airport
AL. SOLIDARNOŚCI AL. SOLIDARNOŚCI BUGAJ Mokotów Wilanów
PLAC Krakow Radom Lublin
ZAMKOWY GRODZKA
ORLA PLAC BIELAŃSKA AL. SOLIDARNOŚCI Most
Śląsko-
BANKOWY PLAC NOWY Dąbrowski
ELEKTORALNA SENATORSKA TEATRALNY KOZIA ZJAZD
SOWIA
AL. JANA PAWŁA II
PLAC MIROWSKI
BEDNARSKA
TRĘBACKA
WIERZBOWA
PTASIA Palac DOBRA
OGRÓD OSSOLIŃ Namiestnikowski FURMAŃSKA WYBRZEŻE GDAŃSKIE
President's
SASKI PLAC SKICH Palace KAROWA
MARSZAŁKA KAROWA
GRZYBOWSKA PIŁSUDSKIEGO KRAKOWSKIE PRZEDMIEŚCIE W i s ł a
ŚRODMIEŚCIE KRÓLEWSKA DOBRA
Warszawski
PLAC PRÓŻNA Uniwersytet BROWARNA WIŚLANA
TWARDA GRZYBOWSKI ZIELNA University
BAGNO MAZOWIECKA TRAUGUTTA of Warsaw LIPOWA
Rondo Świętokrzyska RYSIA CZACKIEGO
CHAŁUBIŃSKIEGO Onz PLAC SIENKIEWICZA POWSTAŃCÓW WARECKA NOWY ŚWIAT Uniwersytet BARTOSZEWICZA DYN A S Y CICHA ZAJĘCZA
Wilanów Palace, a 17th-century royal retreat, which stands in a magnificent PAŃSKA ŚWI ĘTOKRZYS KA JASNA OBOŹNA LESZCZYŃSKA
park on the outskirts of the city ŚLISKA M A R S Z A Ł K O W S K A MONIUSZKI ŚWIĘTOKRZYSKA Nowy KARASIA TOPIEL DREWNIANA Świętokrzyski
Most
Świat-
PLAC
WARSZAWY
TAMKA
Nauki Kopernik
KOPERNIKA
Sights at a Glance Warszawa E M I L I I P L A T E R DEFILAD ZŁOTA ZGODA GÓRSKIEGO TUWIMA ORDYNACKA TAMKA Centrum
Centralna
Warszawa
1 Old Town Market Square Śródmieście CHMIELNA SZPITALNA CHMIELNA SOLEC DOBRA
2 St. John’s Cathedral Centrum WIDOK NOWY ŚWIAT FOKSAL K RUCZKOWSKIEGO JARACZA KOŚCIUSZKOWSKIE WY B RZ E Ż E
3 Royal Castle A L . J E R O Z O L I M S K I E BRACKA Warszawa
4 St. Anna’s Church RONDO SMOLNA Powiśle SOLEC
5 Royal Route NOWOGRODZKA CH. DE GAULLE’A
A L . J E R O
6 Grand Theater
7 Monument to the Ghetto Heroes ŻURAWIA BRACKA AL. 3 MAJA
Most
8 Monument to those Fallen and KRUCZKOWSKIEG O Z O L I M S K I E K. J. Ponia-
towskiego
Murdered in the East 0 meters 350 PLAC KSIĄŻĘCA SOLEC
TRZECH
9 Palace of Culture and Science KRUCZA HOŻA KRZYŻY S OLEC
0 National Museum 0 yards 350 PRUSA LUDNA
WILCZA
PARK
Greater Warsaw (see inset map) Getting Around MOKOTOWSKA AL. UJAZDOWSKIE WIEJSKA MARSZAŁKA OKRĄG
RYDZA
q Łazienki Park The sights in the Old and New Town areas are easily ŚMIGŁEGO R O Z B R AT GWAR DZI S TÓW
w Wilanów Palace and Park visited on foot, since most of the streets are MATEJKI C Z E R N I A KO W S KA
pedestrianized. Trams are best for short trips across the P I Ę K N A
center. There is also an extensive bus service, and two ŚNIEGOCKIEJ S O L E C
metro lines meeting at Świętokrzyska station. Taxis are P I Ę KN A POWIŚLE
reasonably priced, but use a reputable firm. Driving is
getting more problematic, but the streets are still less GÓRNOŚLĄSKA
crowded than in most European cities.
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W ARSA W  711


Greater Warsaw Białystok 0 km 1
S TAW KI MURA
DZIKA
NISKA NOWS Olsztyn Praga 0 mile 1
LEWARTOWSKIEGO KA KONWIKTORSKA SANGUSZKI 634
MIŁA ST. DUBOIS SAPIEŻYŃSKA ZAKROCZYMSKA SAMBORSKA Poznań 580 Wola E77 E30
GEN. WŁADYSŁAWA ANDERSA MIASTA Łódź Śródmieście Wis∏a 801
PRZYRYNEK
KOŚCIELNA
KARMELICKA
NALEWKI WAŁOWA FRANCISZKAŃSKA KOŹLA NOWEGO E30 Powiśle Brest
RYNEK
ZAMENHOFA
AL. JANA PAWŁA II
MORDECHAJA ANIELEWICZA
PAWIA ŚWIĘT BONIFRATERSKA FRETA
DZIELNA OJERSKA ŚWIĘTOJERSKA MOSTOWA BOLEŚĆ 719
STARA
N OWO LI P KI OGRÓD DŁUGA BRZOZOWA WYBRZEŻE GDAŃSKIE Ochota
MURANOW KRASIŃSKICH STAREGO BUGAJ
RYNEK
DŁUGA PIWNA MIASTA KANONIA WŁochy 724
E77
Ratusz SCHILLERA JEZUICKA Okęcie 723
Airport
BOHATERÓW GETTA
KARMELICKA
AL. SOLIDARNOŚCI AL. SOLIDARNOŚCI PODWALE BUGAJ Mokotów Wilanów
MIODOWA
PLAC Krakow Radom Lublin
ZAMKOWY GRODZKA
ORLA PLAC BIELAŃSKA AL. SOLIDARNOŚCI Most Key
Śląsko-
BANKOWY PLAC NOWY Dąbrowski
ELEKTORALNA SENATORSKA TEATRALNY KOZIA ZJAZD Area of main map
SOWIA
AL. JANA PAWŁA II
PLAC MIROWSKI
BEDNARSKA
TRĘBACKA
WIERZBOWA
PTASIA Palac DOBRA
OGRÓD OSSOLIŃ Namiestnikowski FURMAŃSKA WYBRZEŻE GDAŃSKIE
President's
SASKI PLAC SKICH Palace KAROWA
MARSZAŁKA KAROWA
GRZYBOWSKA PIŁSUDSKIEGO KRAKOWSKIE PRZEDMIEŚCIE W i s ł a
ŚRODMIEŚCIE KRÓLEWSKA DOBRA
Uniwersytet
PLAC PRÓŻNA Warszawski BROWARNA WIŚLANA
TWARDA GRZYBOWSKI ZIELNA University
BAGNO MAZOWIECKA TRAUGUTTA of Warsaw LIPOWA
Rondo ŚWI ĘTOKRZYS KA RYSIA JASNA CZACKIEGO OBOŹNA LESZCZYŃSKA
Świętokrzyska
CHAŁUBIŃSKIEGO Onz ŚLISKA E M I L I I P L A T E R DEFILAD M A R S Z A Ł K O W S K A SIENKIEWICZA POWSTAŃCÓW WARECKA NOWY ŚWIAT ORDYNACKA KARASIA BARTOSZEWICZA DYN A S Y CICHA TOPIEL DREWNIANA Centrum
PAŃSKA
Most
Nowy
ŚWIĘTOKRZYSKA
Świętokrzyski
Świat-
MONIUSZKI
Uniwersytet
PLAC
ZAJĘCZA
WARSZAWY
PLAC
TUWIMA
TAMKA
TAMKA
Nauki Kopernik
ZŁOTA
Warszawa
Centralna
Warszawa
Śródmieście
and Science, former venue of Communist
CHMIELNA
Centrum CHMIELNA ZGODA SZPITALNA GÓRSKIEGO KOPERNIKA FOKSAL SOLEC DOBRA KOŚCIUSZKOWSKIE Congress Hall in the Palace of Culture
WIDOK BRACKA NOWY ŚWIAT Warszawa K RUCZKOWSKIEGO JARACZA WY B RZ E Ż E Party congresses
A L . J E R O Z O L I M S K I E
RONDO SMOLNA Powiśle SOLEC
NOWOGRODZKA
CH. DE GAULLE’A
A L . J E R O
KRUCZKOWSKIEG O Z O L I M S K I E K. J. Ponia-
ŻURAWIA BRACKA AL. 3 MAJA Most
towskiego
KRUCZA HOŻA TRZECH KSIĄŻĘCA LUDNA S OLEC
PLAC
SOLEC
KRZYŻY
MOKOTOWSKA AL. UJAZDOWSKIE WIEJSKA MARSZAŁKA R O Z B R AT C Z E R N I A KO W S KA OKRĄG GWAR DZI S TÓW Key
WILCZA PRUSA PARK
RYDZA
ŚMIGŁEGO
MATEJKI
S O L E C Sight / Place of interest
P I Ę K N A
ŚNIEGOCKIEJ Pedestrian street
POWIŚLE
P I Ę KN A
GÓRNOŚLĄSKA
For keys to symbols see back flap
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712  CENTR AL AND EASTERN EUROPE


3 Royal Castle
Plac Zamkowy 4. Tel 22-355 51 70.
@ 116, 175, 178, 180, 503.
Open daily (separate tickets for
Royal Apartments and Parliament).
Closed Oct–Apr: Mon; some public
hols. &(free Sun). 8
∑ zamek-krolewski.pl
Warsaw’s Royal Castle (Zamek
Królewski) stands on the site
of an original castle built here
by the Mazovian dukes in the
14th century. It was transformed
between 1598 and 1619 by King
Zygmunt III Waza, who asked
Italian architects to restyle the
castle into a polygon. The king
Horse-drawn carriages in Warsaw’s Old Town Market Square chose this castle as his royal
residence in 1596, after the
1 Old Town Market not until 1798 that St. John’s Sejm (Parliament) had moved
Square became a cathedral. The here from Krakow in 1569.
coronation of Poland’s last
In the 18th century, King
Rynek Starego Miasta. @ 116, 175, king, Stanisław August Augustus III remodeled the
178, 180, 503. Museum of Warsaw: Poniatowski, in 1764, and east wing in Baroque style
Tel 22-531 38 02. Open Tue–Sun. the swearing of an oath and King Stanisław August
by the deputies of the Sejm Poniatowski added a library.
Painstakingly restored after (Parliament) to uphold the 1791 In 1939, the castle was
World War II, the Old Town Constitution took place here. burned, and then blown up
Market Square was the center After World War II, various by the Nazis in 1944.
of Warsaw public life until the elaborate 19th-century Reconstruction, which was
19th century, when the focus additions were removed from funded by public donations,
of the growing, modern city the facade, and the cathedral took from 1971 to 1988.
moved. The tall, ornate, and was restored to its original The castle’s fascinating
colorful houses, which lend the Mazovian Gothic style. The interiors are the result of its
square its unique character, interior features religious art, dual role: being a royal
were built by wealthy richly carved wooden stalls, residence as well as the seat
merchants in the 17th century. and ornate tombs, including of parliament. Meticulously
The houses on one side form those of Gabriel Narutowicz reconstructed, the castle has
the Museum of Warsaw (1865–1922), Poland’s first royal apartments, as well as
(Muzeum Warszawy). This president, assassinated two the Chamber of Deputies
displays the city’s history days after taking office, and and the Senate. Some of the
through paintings, photographs, Nobel prize-winning novelist woodwork and stucco is
sculpture, and archaeological Henryk Sienkiewicz (1846– original, as are many of the
finds. There is also a film show, 1916). In a chapel founded by furnishings and much of the
with footage of the Nazis’ the Baryczka family hangs a art. Among the paintings
systematic destruction of 16th-century crucifix, which is are 18th-century works by
Warsaw in 1944. Today, café credited with several miracles. Bellotto and Bacciarelli.
tables and stalls line the square,
and horse-drawn carriages offer
tours of the Old Town.
2 St. John’s
Cathedral
Świętojańska 8. Tel 22-831 02 89.
@ 116, 175, 178, 180, 503.
Open daily (Sun: pm only).
Completed in the early 15th
century, St. John’s Cathedral
(katedra św Jana) was originally
a parish church. Gaining
collegiate status in 1406, it was The opulent interior of the Marble Room in the Royal Castle
For hotels and restaurants see p722 and p723


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W ARSA W  713


5 Royal Route 19th-century town houses.
It is also one of the busiest
Krakowskie Przedmieście and Nowy shopping streets in the world,
Świat. @ 116, 175, 180, 503.
and full of large stores,
The Royal Route (Trakt fashionable boutiques, colorful
Królewski) is one of Warsaw’s sidewalk cafés, and a wide
most historic and beautiful choice of restaurants.
streets. Starting by Castle
Square (Plac Zamkowy), and
continuing all the way to the
royal palace at Wilanów, the
most interesting part of the
route is along Krakowskie
Przedmieście and Nowy Świat.
These thoroughfares developed
in the late Middle Ages, with
The magnificent Rococo organ loft of their rural setting, by the banks
St. Anna’s Church of the Vistula river, attracting
Warsaw’s aristocracy and
4 St. Anna’s Church wealthy merchant class.
Krakowskie Przedmieście 68. @ 116, This social elite built grand
175, 178, 180, 195, 503. Open daily. summer residences and town
houses here, while religious
This imposing church on the orders established lavish Imposing Neoclassical facade of the
Royal Route was founded by churches and monasteries. Grand Theater
Anna, the widow of Duke Krakowskie Przedmieście 6 Grand Theater
Bolesław III, and built in the features many buildings from
late 15th century, along with the 17th and 18th centuries, Plac Teatralny. Tel 22-826 50 19. @
a Bernardine monastery. with several imposing palaces 111, 128, 175. Ticket office: Open daily.
Extended between 1518 and standing back from the road
1533, the church was destroyed behind tree-lined squares and One of the city’s largest
during the Swedish invasion of courtyards. Alongside, there buildings before World War II,
1655, but later rebuilt in are impressive town houses the Grand Theater was built in
Baroque style. The Neoclassical and some of the city’s most 1825–33, to a design by
facade was a subsequent interesting churches, including Antonio Corazzi and Ludwik
addition, as was the free- St. Anna’s, St. Joseph’s, and Kozubowski. Many renowned
standing bell tower, which the Church of the Assumption. craftsmen also contributed to
dates from the 1820s. Warsaw University and the Fine the sublime, palatial interiors.
The church has a magnificent Arts Academy are also located Initially, the building was to be
interior, with several Rococo here, while various monuments named the National Theater,
altars, a splendid organ, and pay tribute to but the defeat of the 1830
frescoes by Walenty Żebrowski. eminent Poles. November Uprising forced a
A side chapel contains the relics Nowy Świat is change of name. The two
of St. Władysław of Gielniów, lined with long statues that stand in front
Warsaw’s patron saint. St. Anna’s rows of 18th- and of the building are of the
is a popular choice for weddings, 19th-century composer
partly due to the superstition Stanisław Moniuszko, known
that any marriage celebrated as the father of Polish opera,
here will be a happy one. and of Wojciech Bogusławski,
Next to the church are the the man who instigated the
remains of the 16th-century construction of the theater.
Bernardine monastery, which The theater currently houses
was closed in 1864. The old the National Opera and Ballet
cloisters in the monastery’s east and a small theater museum.
wing, however, have retained Severely damaged during
their original vaulted ceilings. World War II, the theater
Behind St. Anna’s there is an retained only its impressive
attractive Neoclassical Neoclassical facade and a
colonnade, known as few of its rooms. Greatly
Odwach. This is the enlarged in the course of
city’s best location reconstruction, it acquired
for second-hand many modern interiors
booksellers, and Statue of Poland’s most famous astronomer, Nicholas Copernicus and far more extensive
good for browsing. (1473–1543), on the Royal Route backstage facilities.




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7 Monument to the 8 Monument to
Ghetto Heroes Those Fallen
Pomnik Bohaterów Getta, Zamenhofa. and Murdered in
@ 111, 180. the East
ul. Muranowska. @ 116, 178, 503.
The Nazis created the Jewish v 18, 35.
ghetto in 1940 by driving the
Jewish inhabitants of Warsaw This emotionally stirring
and nearby villages into an area monument, designed by
in the northwest of the city. The Mirosław Biskupski and unveiled
ghetto initially housed around in 1995, takes the form of a
450,000 people, but by 1942, typical railway wagon in which
over 300,000 had been trans­ Poles were deported into the
ported to death camps, and depths of the Soviet Union.
100,000 others had died or been It is filled with a pile of crosses
killed in the ghetto. The Ghetto symbolizing the hundreds of
Uprising of 1943 was an action thousands of Poles carted off
of heroic defiance against the to the East in cattle vans and The imposing Socialist Realist Palace of
Nazis, planned not as a bid for subsequently murdered in Culture and Science
liberty, but as an honorable way Soviet prison camps.
to die. Built to commemorate 0 National Museum
this action, the Monument to 9 Palace of Culture Aleje Jerozolimskie 3. Tel 22­621 10
the Ghetto Heroes stands in the and Science 31. @ 111, 117, 158, 507, 517, 521. v
center of the former ghetto. 7, 9, 22, 24. Open 10am–6pm Tue–
It depicts men, women, and Plac Defilad 1. Tel 22­656 76 00. Sun (to 9pm Thu). Closed public hols.
children struggling to flee the Viewing Terrace: Open daily. & & (free Tue). Military Museum: Tel
burning ghetto, together with 022­629 52 71. Open 10am–5pm
a procession of Jews being This monolithic building was Wed, 10am–4pm Thu–Sun. Closed
driven to Nazi death camps. a “gift” from Soviet Russia to some public hols. & (free Sat). 8
A Path of Remembrance, the people of Warsaw, and ∑ mnw.art.pl
lined with a series of granite intended as a monument to
blocks dedicated to events or “the inventive spirit and social Originally established in 1862
heroes of the ghetto, links the progress.” Built in 1952–5 by the as the Fine Art Museum, the
ghetto memorial to the nearby Russian architect, Lev Rudniev, National Museum (Muzeum
Bunker Monument – on the it resembles Moscow’s Socialist Narodowe) was created in 1916.
site from where the uprising Realist tower blocks. Its vast collection was started
was co­ordinated – and the The palace still inspires in 1862 with the purchase of
Umschlagplatz Monument. extreme emotions among 36 paintings. Subsequent
Engraved with hundreds of Varsovians, ranging from acquisitions have turned the
names, it marks the place admiration to demands for museum into one of the city’s
from where many Jews were its demolition. Since the end finest. Collections include ancient
deported to the death camps, of Soviet domination, the Greek, Roman, and Egyptian art,
and represents the cattle trucks building’s role has changed. archaeo logical finds from Faras in
used for transportation. The tower itself now provides present­day Sudan, and medieval
office space, and Polish religious paintings,
the Congress altarpieces, and sculptures.
Hall, which once The foreign art collection
held Communist features Italian, French, Dutch,
Party congresses, and Flemish works. There is a fine
is now a venue Madonna and Child by Sandro
for concerts Botticelli. In the vast Polish art
and festivals. collection are works by Bernardo
The palace Bellotto (1720–80), nephew of
remains a Canaletto, who settled in Warsaw
cultural center and painted fine views of the
in other ways, city. Of native Polish artists, Jan
with the Theater Matejko (1838–93) is one of the
of Dramatic Art, finest on display. He painted
a cinema, historical subjects such as The
puppet theater, Battle of Grunwald. In an east
technology wing, the Military Museum
museum, and a illustrates the history of Polish
Detail from the Monument to the Ghetto Heroes sports complex. firearms and armor.
For hotels and restaurants see p722 and p723


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W ARSA W  715















The impressive Neoclassical facade of Wilanów Palace, designed for King Jan III Sobieski
q Łazienki Park archi tecture in Poland. It beautiful formal gardens, was
Łazienki Królewskie, Agrykola 1. Tel now houses an architecture actually designed as a private
022-506 00 24. @ 116, 166, 180, 503. museum. The king enjoyed retreat for King Jan III Sobieski,
Park: Open daily until dusk. Palace on the palace only for a few years: who valued family life above
the Water: Open mid-Apr–mid-Oct: after the Third Partition of material splendor. The original
11am–6pm Mon, 9am–6pm Tue–Sun Poland, he was forced to property, known as Villa Nova,
(mid-Apr–mid-Oct: to 8pm Thu–Sat). abdicate, and left Warsaw on was purchased in 1677 and
Closed days after public hols. & January 7, 1795. Upon their within two years had been
∑ lazienki-krolewskie.pl withdrawal, the Nazis set fire rebuilt as a mansion, designed
to the palace. It was rebuilt by royal architect Augustyn
This huge park, studded with by 1965. Locci. The elaborate facades
monuments, palaces, and were adorned with sculptures
temples, dates from the and murals, while the interiors
Middle Ages, when it belonged were decorated by Europe’s
to the Mazovian dukes. By the finest craftsmen.
early 17th century, it was Enlarged over subsequent
owned by the Polish crown, and years by its many different
housed a royal menagerie. In owners, the palace gained two
1674, the Grand Crown Marshal large wings, a pair of towers,
Stanisław Herakliusz Lubomirski and a first-floor banqueting hall.
acquired the park, and Tylman The north wing comprises
of Gameren designed its 19th-century rooms, formerly
hermitage and bathing pavilion. Solomon’s Hall in the Palace on the Water, used as living quarters and as a
The pavilion gave the park its Łazienki Park gallery. The largest room, the
name, as łazienki means “baths.” Great Crimson Room, is used
In the 1700s, the park was w Wilanów Palace as a venue for entertaining
owned by King Stanisław August VIPs. The south wing includes
Poniatowski, who commissioned and Park the late Baroque Great Dining
Karol Agrykola, Karol Schultz, S.K. Potockiego 10–16. Tel 22-544 27 Room, designed for King
and Jan Schuch to lay it out as 00. @ E2, 116, 163, 180, 317, 725. August II Mocny, as well as
a formal garden. A number of Palace: Open daily. Closed Jan, Tue Princess Izabela Lubomirska’s
buildings were added during (in winter). & 8 Park: Open apartments, which feature a
this time, and the pavilion was 9:30am–dusk daily. & (free Thu). 8 bathroom dating from 1775.
redesigned, by Dominik Merlini, ∑ wilanow-palac.art.pl The most interesting rooms
as a royal summer residence. in the main part of the palace
Known as the Palace on the Although it was a royal are the Neoclassical Great Hall,
Water, this is one of the finest residence, Wilanów Palace, with marble detailing and
examples of Neoclassical which is set within parkland and allegorical friezes, and the
ornate King’s Bedchamber,
with its 17th-century Turkish
bed canopy. There are also
apartments once occupied by
King Jan III Sobieski and his wife
Marysieńka, which retain many
of their original 17th-century
features, as well as a fascinating
portrait gallery. Outside the
palace, in the old riding school
building, there is an interesting
The enchanting Palace on the Water, Łazienki Park poster museum.




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2 Krakow

For nearly six centuries, Krakow was the capital of Poland and
the country’s largest city. Polish rulers resided at Wawel Castle
until the court and parliament moved to Warsaw in 1596.
Even then, Krakow continued to be regarded as the official
capital and rulers were still crowned and buried in the
cathedral on Wawel Hill. The city still plays an important role
in preserving the national identity. The prestigious Jagiellonian Royal Castle
The Birds Hall, with its gilded
University is the oldest in the country and the city is full of coffered ceiling and marble
memorials to illustrious Poles. Perhaps Krakow’s greatest fireplace, is one of the later
attraction lies in the fact that, unlike so many Polish cities, 17th-century rooms in the castle’s
it was scarcely damaged in World War II. In recent years, Royal Apartments.
many buildings and monuments have been restored to
their former glory.


Wawel Hill
In about 1038, Kazimierz the Restorer
made the citadel on Wawel Hill the
seat of Polish political power. In the
16th century, the Jagiellonian
rulers transformed the
Gothic castle into a Lost Wawel
magnificent Renaissance Exhibition
palace and endowed
the cathedral with
new chapels and
works of art.

Statue of
Tadeusz
Kościuszko

Cathedral
Museum











Fortified
walls


Dragon’s Lair
The foundations of medieval
Krakow Cathedral houses that stood within the
The Zygmunt Chapel with its striking castle walls have been excavated
gilded dome was one of many here. The houses were razed by
additions to the cathedral made the Austrians in 1805–6 to create
in the early 16th century.
a parade ground.
For hotels and restaurants see p722 and p723


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KR AK OW  717


+ Royal Castle
Wawel 5. Tel 12-422 51 55.
v 6, 8, 10, 13, 18. Royal Apartments:
Open daily. Closed Mon; public hols.
& (Nov–Mar: free Sun).
Orient in the Wawel: Open Tue–Sun.
Closed Mon; public hols. & 8
∑ wawel.krakow.pl
The present Renaissance castle
was built in the first half of the
16th century. After the royal
court moved from Krakow to
Warsaw in 1596, the castle fell Royal Castle with the so-called Hen’s Claw Wing on the right
into decay. At the start of the
20th century, it was given to the E Lost Wawel Exhibition The original Gothic cathedral
city of Krakow and work began Wawel Hill. Tel 12-422 51 55. has seen many later additions,
to restore it to its former glory. Open daily. Closed Nov–Mar: Mon, notably the Baroque spire built
The richly decorated Royal public hols. & (free Sun in winter). in the early 1700s and the side
Apartments are the main reason An exhibition in the basement chapels, which have been
for visiting the castle. Most of includes the remains of an early remodeled many times. There
the rooms reflect the tastes of church, thought to date from are many fine tombs of Polish
the last Jagiellonian kings. They the 11th century. Computer rulers. The Renaissance Zygmunt
contain Italian paintings and models illustrate the develop- Chapel was built in 1519–33 by
furniture, painted friezes around ment of Wawel Hill in the the Italian Bartolomeo Berrecci.
the walls, and a fine collection of Middle Ages. It contains an impressive double
Flemish tapestries. The Hall of monument in red marble to
Deputies was where the lower Zygmunt the Old (reigned 1506–
house of the Polish parliament, 48) and his son Zygmunt August
the Sejm, met for debates. It is (reigned 1548–72). Look out too
also known as the Hall of Heads for the late Gothic canopied
because the ceiling is sarcophagus of Kazimierz
decorated with carved Jagiellończyk carved by
heads. On the top floor, Veit Stoss (1492) in the
there is a suite of rooms Chapel of the Holy Cross. The
from the 17th century, with marble tomb of Stefan Batory
portraits of the Waza kings, (reigned 1576–86), created
including one of Prince by Santi Gucci in 1595,
Władysław (later Władysław stands behind the altar.
IV) by Rubens. The Crown The crypt is divided into
Treasury and Armory sections containing the
are situated on the ground tombs and sarcophagi of
floor. The treasury’s Baroque silver reliquary of St. Stanisław by Peter von der other Polish rulers, leading
collection of royal jewels Rennen (1669–71), Krakow Cathedral poets, and national
and regalia includes heroes, including Tadeusz
the coronation sword of the R Krakow Cathedral Kościuszko, leader of the failed
Polish kings. Wawel 3. Tel 12-429 95 16. v 8, 18. insurrection of 1794.
The “Orient in the Wawel” Open daily (Sun: pm only). Cathedral The Cathedral Museum
collection on the first and Museum: Tel 012-429 33 21. houses a collection of sacred
second floors features Turkish Open Mon–Sat. & art and a selection of Polish
tents and banners seized by Originally founded in 1020, royal regalia, including the
the victorious Christian troops the present cathedral is the coronation robe of the last
at the Siege of Vienna in 1683. third to stand on this site. Polish king, Stanisław August
It was completed in 1364 Poniatowski (reigned 1764–95).
during the reign of Kazimierz
the Great. The resting place of E Dragon’s Lair
many Polish kings, the cathedral Wawel Hill. Open Apr–Oct: daily.
has always held great symbolic Beneath Wawel Hill is a series
significance for the nation. It is of caves associated with the
dedicated to St. Stanisław, legend of a dragon. In summer,
whose relics are housed in an part of the cave system can be
ornate reliquary in the shape reached by a set of spiral steps.
of a coffin beneath an eye- Children take delight in the
Turkish tent in the “Orient in the Wawel” catching Baroque altar canopy bronze, fire-breathing statue
exhibition in the castle in the center of the nave. of a dragon at the entrance.




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Krakow: the Old Quarter

In 1257, Krakow was granted a charter by Duke Bolesław
the Chaste. This was of key importance to the city, ensuring
local government and trade privileges and stimulating the
city’s future development. The charter stipulated certain
conditions: a large centrally located square, surrounded by a
regular grid of streets, was to become the city center. The size
of each plot determined the size of the houses. Although the
architecture became ever more opulent over the centuries,
this urban scheme has survived almost intact. To this day,
the Old Quarter remains the heart of modern Krakow.
Many of the streets are pedestrianized, allowing visitors
to enjoy the great concentration of historic sights.
in the history of the city. Many
are decorated with an emblem
that gives the house its name, The Slacker Crucifix (1496) by Veit Stoss in
for example the Palace of the St. Mary’s Church
Rams on the west side of the
square, home of a famous Hall also contains a number of
cabaret since 1956. Christopher cafés – the Noworolski Café is
Palace takes its name from a one of the best in Krakow.
14th-century statue of St.
Christopher. The house was R St. Mary’s Church
remodeled in 1682–5 around Mariacki Square 5. Tel 012-422 05 21.
a beautiful arcaded courtyard. Open daily (pm only Sun). & 8
It is home to the Museum of St. Mary’s facade with its two
Krakow, where paintings, gold impressive Gothic towers is set
artifacts from local workshops, at an angle on the east side of
documents, and memorabilia Market Square. The left-hand
are displayed in a series of grand tower is topped by a spire
stuccoed rooms. added in 1478. It served as the
city’s watch tower and still
The City Hall Tower in the western corner of P Cloth Hall today a bugle call is played
Market Square Market Square 1/3. Tel 012-433 54 00. every hour. It is even broadcast
Open Tue–Sun. & 8 on Polish radio at noon. The
P Market Square The Cloth Hall (Sukiennice) in projecting porch between the
Rynek Główny. the middle of Market Square towers was added in the
The Market Square is said to originated in medieval times Baroque period.
be the largest town square in as a covered market. It was The church’s greatest treasure
Europe. In summer, nearly 30 rebuilt after a fire in 1555 and is the huge altarpiece, 12 m
street cafés remain open here then remodeled entirely in (39 ft) high, by Veit Stoss, who
until the early hours. Flower 1875 with arcades along the lived in Krakow from 1477 to
stalls, street musicians, and exterior that give it a Venetian 1496. The outer panels show
artists selling their works all look. Most of the stalls today scenes from the lives of Christ
contribute to the lively sell souvenirs of various kinds and the Virgin. The middle
atmosphere. The ornate Cloth and there is a gallery of shutters are opened each day
Hall virtually divides the square 19th-century Polish painting at noon to reveal the huge
in two. Two other buildings on the upper floor. The Cloth carved centerpiece, The
stand in the square: the small
green-domed Church of
St. Adalbert, below which is a
museum of the history of the
square, and the City Hall Tower,
a relic of the original Gothic
town hall. There is also a
monumental statue of the
great Polish poet Adam
Mickiewicz (1798–1855).
Buildings around the square
retain elements from every era Horse-drawn cabs lined up in front of the Cloth Hall in Market Square
For hotels and restaurants see p722 and p723


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KR AK OW  719


Assumption of the Virgin. There is Y Planty
also a fine crucifix by Veit Stoss, Open daily.
known as the Slacker Crucifix. The Planty green belt follows the
outline of Krakow’s medieval
E Czartoryski Museum walls, which were demolished in
Św. Jana 19. Tel 012-422 55 66. the early 19th century. A circuit
@ 152, 304, 502. v 2, 3, 4, 14, 19, 24. through the park of about 5 km
Open Tue–Sun. & 8 (Sun). (3 miles) starting from Wawel
The core of the museum is the leads along tree-lined paths and
art collection assembled by avenues, past fountains and
Princess Isabella Czartoryska statues. Only a small stretch of
in the late 18th century. It the city walls survives beside St.
contains some magnificent Florian’s Gate at the north end Entrance gate to the Auschwitz
paintings, notably Leonardo of the Old Town. Nearby stands extermination camp
da Vinci’s Lady with an Ermine a well-preserved round
and Rembrandt’s Landscape barbican built in 1498–9, when the Remu’h Cemetery attracts
with the Good Samaritan. Turkish incursions were a pilgrims from all over the world.
The museum also has a serious threat to the city. Most of the graves were
collection of decorative arts destroyed by the Nazis, but
from all over Europe and a u Old Synagogue fragments from them have been
section on Polish history. Szeroka 24. Tel 012-422 09 62. piled up to form a “wailing wall.”
v 11, 13, 19, 24, 52. Open daily.
& (free Mon). Environs
In the late 15th century, Although the name Oświęcim
Krakow’s Jewish quarter was means little to most foreigners,
established in the Kazimierz its German form Auschwitz
district, east of Wawel Hill. evokes fear and horror in people
At the outbreak of World War II, all round the world. It was here
there was a community of some near the little town of Oświęcim,
70,000 Jews. The Nazis moved about 55 km (35 miles) west of
them all to a ghetto across the Krakow, that the Nazis
river, from where they were established their largest
eventually deported to complex of concentration and
concentration camps. extermination camps. The
Amazingly, a number of Jewish Auschwitz camp opened in
sites have survived. The Old June 1940, and in March 1941,
Synagogue, carefully restored a much larger camp was set up
Leonardo’s Lady with an Ermine in the after the war, is not used for at nearby Birkenau (Brzezinka in
Czartoryski Museum worship, but houses the Jewish Polish). In all, over 1,500,000
Museum. The Remu’h Jews and others were murdered
P Collegium Maius Synagogue (c.1553), also on here. The gas chambers, capable
Jagiellońska 15. Tel 012-370 54 60. Szeroka Street, still functions. of killing thousands daily, were
@ 152, 304, 502. v 2, 4, 8, 18. It is named after Rabbi Moses in use from 1942 to January
Closed Mon–Sat. & 8 obligatory Remu’h, a 16th-century 1945, when the camps were
(call to book visit). philosopher, whose tomb in liberated by Soviet troops.
This is the oldest building The area has been declared a
of the Jagiellonian University. UNESCO World Heritage Site and
In the 15th century, a number the two camps are preserved as
of houses were amalgamated the Muzeum Oświęcim-
to create lecture rooms and Brzezinka – a grim warning to
housing for professors. It was future generations of mankind’s
extensively remodeled in the capacity for inhumanity. Many
mid-19th century. At the heart structures were destroyed as
of the building is an attractive the Nazis left, but the gate, with
Gothic cloister. The University the chilling words “Arbeit macht
Museum moved here after frei” (“Work makes free”) written
World War II. Visitors can see above it, still stands.
the 16th-century Libraria and
Great Hall, rooms still used E Muzeum Oświęcim-Brzezinka
by the Senate of the university, ul. Więźniów Oświęcimia 20. £ @
and the Treasury. There is also Tel 033-844 80 99. Open daily (closing
a Copernicus Room dedicated time varies between 3pm in winter
to the great astronomer, who and 7pm in summer). 8
studied here in 1491–5. Hall of Prayers in Krakow’s Old Synagogue ∑ auschwitz.org.pl




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720  CENTR AL AND EASTERN EUROPE

Practical & Travel Information Currency and Banking
The official Polish currency is the
Since the fall of Communism in 1989, tourism has greatly złoty, each of which is divided
increased in Poland. New shops and hotels have sprung up, into 100 grosze. In January 1995,
and the quality of service has improved, especially in banks four zeros were knocked off the
and post offices. Nevertheless, much of Poland’s economy has złoty, so that 10,000 złoty
became one Polish New Złoty
yet to adjust to the post-Communist era; the health service (PLN). The old banknotes were
has been reformed, but it lags behind the country’s many withdrawn and replaced with
developing sectors. In general, goods in Poland are much new notes. Money can also be
cheaper than in Western Europe. changed at bureaux de change,
many of which offer better rates
than banks. Most banks are
Visas and Customs Medical Emergencies open from 8am to 6pm.
Information Citizens of the following
A valid passport is required countries are entitled to free Disabled Travelers
for admittance to Poland, medical treatment in Poland:
but you may not need a visa; EU members, Belarus, Tunisia, Poland has a poor record for
contact the Polish embassy Ukraine, Mongolia, China, providing for disabled people,
in your country for details. and the countries of the but things are rapidly changing.
Personal items may be brought former Yugoslavia. All renovated or new public
into the country, but limits are For visitors from other buildings have ramps or lifts
imposed on the import and countries, first aid is provided built into them, and there are
export of alcohol, tobacco, and free of charge at hospitals, but also special taxis available.
cigarettes. Antiques exported other types of treatment may However, many traditional sites
from the country require a incur a charge. Never theless, of interest may prove difficult to
special permit. Gifts worth all visitors are advised to take enter. For general advice or for
up to €300 may be imported out full medical insurance information about specific sites,
duty free. before arriving in Poland. contact the Disabled People’s
Keep your policy documents National Council.
with you at all times, as well
Personal Security
as a passport for identifying
Polish cities suffer from the yourself to hospital staff. An Communications
same crime and security ambulance service is available Widespread use of cell
problems as most European 24 hours a day. phones means there are
capitals, so vigilance and care fewer payphones than before,
are needed. Security is provided but phonecard-operated
by the state police, the highway Tourist Information telephones can still be found,
police, and a number of private Information centers are especially around railway
security organizations. The latter generally found at train stations; stations, post offices, and the
are often hired to protect public these provide general regional city center. Phonecards can
buildings and private houses, information. For specific enquiries be bought at post offices and
and to keep order at various about accommodations, tickets, newsagents. Charges for long-
events. In the city of Warsaw, and trains, the Polish National distance national calls vary
it is advisable to avoid the Tourist Office is preferable. according to the time of day.
Praga district after dusk, and Hotel employees are also a The highest charges are for
in particular Ulica Brzeska. good source of information. calls made between 8am and
6pm. Local calls are cheaper
from 10pm to 6am. The charges
The Climate of Poland
WARSAW for international calls do not
Poland’s climate is influenced vary with time of day. Poland
by cold polar air from has four cell telephone
Scandinavia, and sub-tropical °C/ºF networks, which operate on
air from the south. Polar- 21/70 two wavelengths, 900 MHz
continental fronts dominate and 1,800 MHz, and cover
in winter, bringing crisp, 7/45 11/52 7/45 almost all of the country.
frosty weather, while late 0/32 2/36 -3/27 Poczta Polska, the Polish
-8/18
summer and autumn (the 5 7.5 3 1.5 postal service, provides a
most popular times to visit) hrs hrs hrs hrs wide range of services, and
enjoy plenty of warm sunny 42 56 40 40 its offices are open from 8am
days. Winters, which always mm mm mm mm to 8pm on weekdays; the main
bring snow, can be very month Apr Jul Oct Jan
cold in the north. post office in Warsaw is open
24 hours a day, seven days a
week. Letters to destinations


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POLAND  721


within Poland usually arrive offers a substantial number of are fast and usually arrive on
within three or four days of domestic and international time. The most comfortable,
posting, while international flights. and most expensive, are the
mail may take up to a week; InterCity trains, which also give
intercon tinental mail can take passengers a snack. InterCity
up to three weeks. Post boxes Traveling by Bus trains provide compartments for
are red and easily identifiable. Most long­distance routes within mothers with children and for
For urgent mail, Poczta Polska Poland are served by Polish disabled people. Fares for
provides both an express Motor Transport, Polska ordinary and fast trains are very
service and a courier service. Komunikaja Samo chodowa reasonable; express trains and
The international DHL and (PKS). A competitor is Polski Bus, sleeping cars are expensive,
UPS courier agencies also which offers cheaper fares, air­ although not by the standards
operate in Poland. conditioned coaches, and of the rest of Europe.
wireless Internet access, but they Suburban routes are served
connect only the major cities. by electric trains, which
Traveling by Plane
Local buses are sometimes sometimes consist of open­
Poland is well connected with the only means of getting to plan, double­decker cars.
the rest of the world. Inter­ minor towns and villages. The
national flights from some 90 services are generally punctual,
cities in 40 countries arrive in although before 8am and in the Traveling by Car
Warsaw. The airports at Gdańsk, afternoon they may be Poland has few highways, but
Katowice, Szczecin, Poznań, crowded. Tickets for these are new routes are added each year
Wrocław, and Krakow also have always bought from the driver. to build a network of highways
international flights, linking spanning the entire country.
Poland with much of Western While this work is being carried
Europe, as well as Prague, Traveling by Train out, drivers might be affected
Budapest, Bucharest, Sofia, International train services run by delays.
and the capitals of the former between all major European and Wherever you drive in Poland,
Soviet Union. Some 30 airlines, Polish cities. The journeys by fast always carry your passport, car
including British Airways, Air train from Warsaw to Prague and insurance, license, green card,
France, SAS (Scandinavia), and Berlin take just six and nine hours and rental contract with you,
Lufthansa (Germany), operate respectively. The main rail route and if you are driving a foreign
from Warsaw Chopin airport, runs across Poland from east to car, display the international
which has direct connections west, connecting Russia with symbol of its country of origin.
with Canada, the US, Israel, and western Europe. All the major international car
China. Krakow John Paul II, the Express lines connect almost rental companies operate in
second largest airport in Poland, all the big cities, and the trains Warsaw and Krakow.
DIRECTORY
Tourist Offices Emergency UK Airports
in Poland Numbers ul. Kawalerii 12.
Tel 22­311 00 00. Krakow John Paul II
Krakow Ambulance ∑ ukinpoland.fco. Tel 12­295 58 00.
Rynek Główny 1–3. Tel 999. gov.uk
Tel 12­433 73 10. Warsaw Chopin
Fire Brigade US Tel 22­650 42 20.
Warsaw Tel 998. Al Ujazdowskie 29/31,
ul. Krakowskie Warsaw. Car Rental
Przedmieście 65. Medical Advice Tel 22­504 20 00.
Tel 22­635 18 81. Tel 94 39. ∑ poland. usembassy. AVIS Poland
Police gov Krakow, ul. Lubicz 23.
Tourist Offices Tel 997. Tel 12­639 32 89.
outside Poland Facilities for the Warsaw Airport.
Embassies Disabled
UK Tel 22­650 48 72.
Level 3, Westgate House, Australia Disabled People’s ∑ avis.pl
West Gate, London W5 ul. Nowogrodzka 11, National Council Hertz Rent-a-Car
1YY. Tel 030­0303 1812. Warsaw. ul. Andersa 13, Warsaw. Krakow, al. Focha 1.
∑ poland.travel/en-gb Tel 22­521 34 44. Tel 22­530 65 70. Tel 12­429 62 62.
US Canada Train Stations Warsaw Chopin Airport.
5 Marine View Plaza, Suite ul. Matejki 1/5, Tel 22­650 28 96.
303B, Hoboken, New Jersey Warsaw. Warsaw Central Warsaw Modlin Airport.
07030. Tel 201­420 9910. Tel 22­584 31 00. Jerozolimskie 54. Tel 22­650 28 96.
∑ poland.travel/en-us ∑ canada.pl Tel 22­474 40 86. ∑ hertz.com.pl





720-721_EW_Europe.indd 721 14/07/16 10:20 am

722  POLAND

Where to Stay

stars. The rooms combine Price Guide
Warsaw old-school luxury with all Prices are based on one night’s stay in
modern conveniences. high season for a standard double room,
CITY CENTER: inclusive of service charges and taxes.
Chmielna Guesthouse  CITY CENTER:  up to 300 złoty
Boutique Map C4 InterContinental   300 to 600 złoty
ul. Chmielna 13, 00-021 Luxury Map C3  over 600 złoty
Tel 22-828 12 82 ul. Emilii Plater 49, 00-125
∑ chmielnabb.pl Tel 22-328 88 88 OLD QUARTER: Batory 
Stay in charming small rooms – ∑ warsaw.intercontinental.com Budget
some with en-suite bathrooms Large rooms and great facilities at ul Sołtyka 19, 31-529
and some with shared facilities. this hotel in one of the city’s tallest Tel 12-294 30 30
Accommodations have a travel and most luxurious buildings. ∑ hotelbatory.pl
theme and are grouped around Within walking distance of both
a common lounge/dining room. CITY CENTER: Residence the Old Town and Kazimierz, this
St. Andrews Palace  family-run hotel has warmly
CITY CENTER: Luxury Map D4 decorated rooms.
SleepWell Apartments  ul. Chmielna 30, 00-100
Boutique Map D4 Tel 22-826 46 40 OLD QUARTER: Francuski 
ul. Nowy Świat 62, 00-357 ∑ residencestandrews.pl Boutique
Tel 22-828 12 82 The St. Andrews offers luxury ul. Pijarska 13, 31-015
∑ sleepwell-warsaw.pl apartments in a renovated pre- Tel 666-195 831
Each of these centrally located World War I building. Short- or ∑ hotel-francuski.com.pl
studio apartments boasts a long-term stays. A classic Krakow hotel with
bold interior design ranging antique furnishings, exemplary
from modern to kitsch. FARTHER AFIELD: service, a good restaurant, and
Ibis Stare Miasto  a superb Old Town location.
DK Choice Chain OLD QUARTER: Hotel Royal 
ul. Muranowska 2, 00-209
CITY CENTER: Rialto  Tel 22-310 10 00 Boutique
Boutique ∑ ibis.com ul. Św. Gertrudy 26/29, 31-048
ul. Wilcza 73, 00-670 Located close to the Old Town, Tel 12-421 35 00
Tel 22-584 87 00 the functional but cozy Ibis ∑ hotelewam.pl
∑ rialto.pl makes an ideal base from which Housed in a 19th-century
An Art Deco vibe runs through to explore the area. building with Art Nouveau
this characterful and elegant features, the Royal has simple
hotel. Every detail, from the en-suite rooms.
furniture to the light fittings, is
a faithful reproduction of the Krakow OLD QUARTER:
Roaring Twenties style, and Wit Stwosz 
many of the bathrooms have OLD QUARTER: Abel  Modern
beautiful period tiling. The Boutique ul. Mikołajska 28, 31-207
stylish rooms are comfortable ul. Józefa 30, 31-056 Tel 12-429 60 26
and have contemporary Tel 12-411 87 36 ∑ wit-stwosz.com.pl
amenities including flat-screen ∑ hotelabel.pl Close to the main square, this
TVs and espresso machines. Small but characterful rooms, hotel in a historic building offers
Helpful and attentive staff. each individually furnished, in spacious rooms, the coziest of
the heart of the bohemian which are on the attic floor.
district of Kazimierz.
CITY CENTER: OLD QUARTER: Grand
Sofitel Victoria  Hotel Krakow 
Modern Map D3 Historic
ul. Królewska 11, 00-065 ul. Sławkowska 5/7, 31-014
Tel 22-657 80 11 Tel 12-424 08 00
∑ sofitel.com ∑ grand.pl
Located opposite Warsaw’s Offering the best in comfort
lush Saxon Gardens, the Sofitel and service for over a century,
Victoria offers well-furnished the Grand has regally furnished
rooms with all the amenities. rooms in a former palace.
CITY CENTER: OLD QUARTER:
Hotel Bristol  Sheraton 
Luxury Map D3 Luxury
Krakowskie Przedmieście 42/44, ul. Powiśle 7, 31-101
00-325 Tel 12-662 10 00
Tel 22-551 10 00 ∑ sheraton.pl
∑ hotelbristolwarsaw.pl The Sheraton has comfortable
Housed in a sumptuous building, rooms, a full range of facilities,
the Bristol has a guest list that Art Deco design touches and neutral tones and smooth service. Located on
includes presidents and rock at the Rialto hotel, Warsaw the banks of the Vistula river.

722-723_EW_Europe.indd 722 09/08/2016 12:18

TR A VELERS ’ NEEDS  723

Where to Eat and Drink

Price Guide
Prices are based on a three-course
meal for one, with half a bottle of
house wine, and all extra charges.
 up to 50 złoty
 50 to 75 złoty
 over 75 złoty
OLD QUARTER:
Klezmer Hois 
Jewish
ul. Szeroka 6, 31-053
Tel 12-411 12 45
Dine at this characterful
restaurant in the former Jewish
Elegantly laid-out tables in the dining room at Wentzl, Krakow quarter. On the menu is a range
of Jewish-influenced dishes
FARTHER AFIELD: featuring meat, fish, and fowl.
Warsaw Dom Polski 
Polish OLD QUARTER: Marmolada 
CITY CENTER: Cafe 6/12  ul. Francuska 11, 03-906 Italian/Polish
Café Map D4 Tel 22-616 24 32 ul. Grodzka 5, 31-006
ul. Żurawia 6/12, 00-503 This restaurant serves some of Tel 12-422 02 33
Tel 22-622 53 33 the classiest fare in Poland. The A winning blend of Polish classics
Versatile café with a broad choice menu is seasonal and often and Italian-themed dishes is
of light and main meals, ranging features superb game dishes. served in a candlelit interior
from breakfast to salads and bedecked with flowers.
mains with an Oriental twist. FARTHER AFIELD:
Sakana Sushi Bar  OLD QUARTER: Cyrano
CITY CENTER: Japanese de Bergerac 
Kompania Piwna  ul. Moliera 4/6, 00-076 French
Polish Map D2 Tel 22-826 59 58 ul. Sławkowska 26, 31-014
ul. Podwale 25, 00-261 One of the best sushi restaurants Tel 12-411 72 88
Tel 22-635 63 14 in town, Sakana serves a range of A world-class French restaurant
An Old Town gem with a Japanese classics to a fashion- occupying elegant rooms,
courtyard designed to resemble conscious crowd. Cyrano offers exquisite food
a town square. Savor heaps of and a huge list of wines. The
meat and potatoes, served on FARTHER AFIELD: set lunches are excellent value.
wooden boards. Warszawa Wschodnia 
Polish/European OLD QUARTER: Farina 
CITY CENTER: Specjały ul. Mińska 25, 01-999 Mediterranean
Regionalne  Tel 22-870 29 18 ul. Św. Marka 16, 31-018
Polish/East European Map D4 Modern Polish-European cuisine Tel 12-422 16 80
ul. Nowy Świat 44, 00-363 served up in chic surroundings, Farina is one of the best
Tel 662-254 215 in a former factory in the Praga seafood restaurants in town,
Dishes based on folk recipes for suburb. The menu changes daily with Mediterranean-themed
both food and alcohol (tinctures according to what is fresh. dishes served up in a homely
and meads) are served in this cozy room with wooden tables.
restaurant with an open kitchen.
CITY CENTER: Papaya  Krakow DK Choice
Asian Map D4 OLD QUARTER: Wentzl 
ul. Foksal 16, 00-372 OLD QUARTER: Chimera  European
Tel 22-826 11 99 Polish/Mediterranean Rynek Główny 19, 31-008
This upscale fusion restaurant on ul. Św. Anny 3, 31-008 Tel 12-429 52 99
a popular bar-and-restaurant Tel 12-292 12 12 Opened by local merchant
strip serves imaginative Oriental Self-service restaurant offering John Wentzl in 1792, this
meat and seafood dishes in a selection of mains and salads. has been one of the best
über-cool surroundings. Vegetarians are well catered for. restaurants in the city ever
since. The high ceilings,
FARTHER AFIELD: OLD QUARTER: Zapiecek polished oak floors, and
India Curry  Pierogarnia  outstanding service provide a
Indian Polish classy environment in which
ul. Żurawia 22, 00-515 ul. Sławkowska 32, 31-014 to feast on a well-chosen
Tel 22-438 93 50 Tel 12-422 74 95 blend of French and Central-
An Indian restaurant that gets This inexpensive restaurant European fare. The wine list is
everything right, with a varied specializes in pierogi, the extensive and the next-door
menu of truly spicy food, plenty typically Polish pastry parcels Wentzl café serves superb
of choices for vegetarians, and a stuffed with a variety of savory cakes as well as ice cream.
tasteful, relaxing interior. and sweet fillings.

722-723_EW_Europe.indd 723 14/07/16 3:50 pm

724  GENER AL INDEX

General Index

Page numbers in bold refer to Aínos, Mount 471 Alps (cont.)
main entries. Air travel 24–5 Jungfrau 577, 583
A Austria 571 restaurants 210–11
Belgium and Luxembourg 231
Swiss Alps 490–91, 492, 576, 577,
Aalborg 645 Czech Republic 686–7 584–5
hotels 648 Denmark 646, 647 Alt, Salome 569
restaurants 649 Finland 660–61 Altauf, King 425
Aalto, Alvar 652, 656 France 200, 201 Alte Pinakothek (Munich) 14, 523
Abadie, Paul 166 Germany 540, 541 Altea 309
Abbeys Great Britain 98, 99 Altes Museum (Berlin) 504
Abbaye Royale de Fontevraud 177 Greece 480, 481 Altes Rathaus (Bamberg) 516
Abbaye de St-Victor (Marseilles) 194 Hungary 703 Altes Rathaus (Munich) 14, 522
Abbazia di San Fruttuoso 408 Ireland 134 Altomonte, Martino 565
Bath Abbey 79 Italy 432, 433 Alykés 471
Göttweig Abbey 567 Netherlands 256–7 Amalfi 427
Kylemore Abbey (Connemara) 131 Norway 630–31 hotels 440
Melk Abbey 567 Poland 721 restaurants 443
St. Peter’s Abbey (Salzburg) 569 Portugal 359 Amalfi Coast 427
Santa Maria da Vitória (Batalha) 351 St. Petersburg 659 Amalienborg (Copenhagen) 642
Santo Spirito (Agrigento) 429 Spain 324, 325 Amalienburg (Munich) 525
Westminster Abbey (London) 13, Sweden 614, 615 Amarante, restaurants 363
51, 52, 54–5 Switzerland 590–91 Ambleside 85
see also Monasteries Aistulf, King 425 restaurants 109
Abd al Rahman I, Caliph 316 Aix-en-Provence 194 Ambulances see Emergency services
Aberdeen 89 hotels 208 Amélia, Queen of Portugal 346, 347
Aberystwyth, hotels 105 restaurants 211 Ammannati, Bartolommeo 387, 401
Absalon, Bishop of Copenhagen 640, Aker Brygge (Oslo) 624 Amoopí 475
644 Akershus Slott (Oslo) 623 Amsterdam 10, 143, 236, 240–51
Accademia (Venice) 17, 423 Akrotíri 473 climate 256
Accessories stores see Shopping Albert, Prince Consort 63, 74 hotels 260
Accidents see Emergency services Alberti, Leon Battista 402, 412 map 240–41
Achílleion Palace (Corfu) 471 Albertina (Vienna) 558, 563 restaurants 261
Acrocorinth 466 Albertinium (Dresden) 515 Two Days in Amsterdam 11
Acropolis (Athens) 11, 454–6 Albufeira 337, 357 Amsterdam Museum 244–5
Acropolis at Líndos 475 hotels 362 Amsterdamse Poort (Haarlem) 252
Adam, Robert 62, 79 Alcázar (Segovia) 284 Amundsen, Roald 620, 626, 629
Adelcrantz, Carl Fredrik 609 Alcázar (Toledo) 287, 288 Ancien Collège des Jésuites (Reims)
Admiralty Arch (London) 58 Alcobaça 351 172
The Adoration of the Magi (da Vinci) Alcohol see Beer; Whisky/whiskey; Ancient Agora (Athens) 11, 453
405 Wine Andersen, Hans Christian 636, 645
The Adoration of the Magi (Lochner) Aldobrandini family 382 Little Mermaid (Copenhagen) 642
535 Aleksey, Czarevich 659 Nyhavn (Copenhagen) 642
The Adoration of the Shepherds (El Alentejo 356 Odense 644–5
Greco) 280 Alexander I, Czar 560, 656 András III, King of Hungary 691
Aertsen, Pieter 251 Alexander II, Czar 655, 658 Andratx 309
Afonso IV, King of Portugal 351 Alexander III, Czar 658 Andronikos II, Emperor 468
Afonso V, King of Portugal 346 Alexander VI, Pope 386 Anfiteatro Romano (Tarragona) 295
Afonso Henriques, King of Portugal Alexander VII, Pope 376 Angelico, Fra 160
337, 338 Alexander the Great 34, 35 The Annunciation 280, 397
Alcobaça 351 birthplace 464, 465 Anglo Saxons 35, 46
Castelo de São Jorge (Lisbon) 343 Greece 445, 446 Anna Amalia, Duchess of Weimar 515
Coimbra 354 Alexandrowka (Potsdam) 511 Anne, Queen of England 71, 82
Sé (Lisbon) 343 Alfàbia 309 Anne of Austria 153
Åfors 612 Alfama (Lisbon) 342–3 Anne of Brittany 170, 176
Agía Anna 473 Alfonso V, King of Aragón 426 Anne Frank House (Amsterdam) 11,
Agioi Apóstoloi 477 Alfonso VI, King of Castile 286, 288 245
Agios Geórgios 473 Alfonso IX, King of León 285 Annecy 183
Agios Ioánnis 461 Alfonso XI, King of Spain 314 hotels 207
hotels 484 Alfonso XII, King of Spain 281 restaurants 210
Agios Nikólaos (Corfu) 471 Alfonso XIII, King of Spain 275, 293 The Annunciation (da Vinci) 33
Agios Nikólaos (Crete) 477 Algarve 356–7 The Annunciation (Fra Angelico) 280,
hotels 486 Algeciras, restaurants 334 397
Agnes, St. 382 Alhambra (Granada) 262–3, 312–13 Ano Merá 472
Agnolo, Baccio d’ 399 Alicante 309 Antibes 196
Agorakritos 456 hotels 331 Antiques
Agricola, Mikael 656 Alkamenes 456 France 203
Agrigento 429 Alkmaar 252 Great Britain 101
hotels 440 Almagro, hotels 331 see also Shopping
restaurants 443 Alps Antony of Padua, St. 343, 413
Agrippa, Marcus 190, 382 Austrian Alps 554, 568–9 Antwerp 224
Agrykola, Karol 715 French Alps 183 hotels 234
Ahenny 126 hotels 207 restaurants 235
724-757_EW_Europe.indd 724 14/07/16 10:21 am

GENER AL INDEX  725




Ápella 475 The Assumption of the Virgin (Rubens) Balatonfüred 700
Apollo del Belvedere 379 220–21 Balatonvilágos 700
Apollodorus of Damascus 384 Assumption of the Virgin (Titian) 421 Balearic Islands 265, 309
Appel, Karel 250 Astronomical Clock (Prague) 682 ferries 325
Applecross, hotels 106 Astrup Fearnley Museet (Oslo) 624 hotels 332
Aquariums Ateneum Art Museum (Helsinki) 656 restaurants 335
Aquarium de Paris-Cinéaqua 164 Athanásios 462 Ballet see Dance
Oceanário de Lisboa (Lisbon) 342 Athens 10, 367, 450–57 Balzac, Honoré de 167
Aqueduct (Segovia) 35, 284 climate 478 Bamberg 516
Aqueducto da Água de Prata (Évora) emergency services 479 hotels 547
356 hotels 484 restaurants 550
Aran Islands 131 map 450–51 Banco de España (Madrid) 276
Áras an Uachtaráin (Dublin) 123 restaurants 487 Bandinelli, Baccio 399
Arc de Triomphe (Paris) 15, 165 travel 480, 481 Bank of Ireland (Dublin) 116
Arch of Constantine (Rome) 385 Two Days in Athens 11 Bank notes (euros) 23
Arch of Galerius (Thessaloníki) 464 Athos, Mount 465 Banking see Practical information
Arch of Septimius Severus (Rome) Atomium (Brussels) 223 Banqueting House (London) 53
384 Attalos, King of Pergamon 453 El Bañuelo (Granada) 310
Arch of Titus (Rome) 35, 384 Attila the Hun 691 Baptistry (Florence) 398
Archángelos 475 August II Mocny, King of Poland 715 Baptistry (Padua) 413
Archelaos, King 464 Augustine, St. 72 Baptistry (Pisa) 393
Archer, A. 455 Augustinerkirche (Vienna) 558, 560 Baptistry (Siena) 390
Archer, Colin 626 Augustus, Emperor 35, 370, 380 Barcelona 10, 265, 296–305
Architecture 34–9 Palatine (Rome) 385 Barri Gòtic street-by-street 298–9
Greek temple architecture 458–9 Ravenna 425 hotels 330
Renaissance 403 Trier 530 map 296–7
Archivo de Indias (Seville) 318 Augustus III, King of Poland 712 restaurants 333
Arcimboldo, Giuseppe 562 Augustus the Strong, Elector of tourist office 323
Arco de Santa María (Burgos) 289 Saxony 515 travel 324, 325
Arcos de la Frontera, hotels 332 Aurelian, Emperor 381 Two Days in Barcelona 12
Ardennes 229 Auschwitz 719 Bärengraben (Bern) 582
Ardmore, hotels 138 Austen, Jane 73, 78 Bargello (Florence) 400
Arena (Verona) 412, 413 Austria 552–75 Barnabas 462
Les Arènes (Arles) 193 entertainment 572–3 Barocci, Federico 425
Areópoli 468 history 553–5 Barovier, Angelo 423
hotels 485 hotels 574 Barragem de Bravura 357
Argalastí 461 language and culture 555 Barredo (Oporto) 355
Argostóli 471 maps 492–3, 554–5 Barri Gòtic (Barcelona) 12
Århus 645 practical information 570–71 street-by-street 298–9
hotels 648 restaurants 575 Barrie, J.M. 62
restaurants 649 shopping 572, 573 Barry, E.M. 59
Arisaig, hotels 106 travel 571 Bartók, Béla 693
Aristotle 465 Vienna 17, 556–65 Baryczka family 712
Arles Autoworld (Brussels) 223 Basel 581
hotels 208 Avebury, restaurants 108 hotels 594
restaurants 211 Avercamp, Hendrick, Winter restaurants 595
street-by-street 192–3 Landscape with Skaters 248 Basil II, Emperor 460
Armathwaite, hotels 105 Aviemore 95 Basilica (Vicenza) 413
Arnolfo di Cambio 377 Avignon 191 Basilica Aemilia (Rome) 384
Arona 411 hotels 208 Basilica of Constantine and
Árpád, Prince 691, 699 restaurants 211 Maxentius (Rome) 384
Art 34–9 Avila 285 Basilica Julia (Rome) 384
Art Deco 39 Azéma 164 Basilica di San Francesco (Assisi) 36,
Art Nouveau 38 Azenhas do Mar 336 388–9
Art stores see Shopping Aznar, Camón 308 Basílica de Santa Maria del Mar
Arthur, King 72–3 Azulejos (tiles) 342, 352 (Barcelona) 300
Artis (Amsterdam) 247 B Basilique St-Denis (Paris) 170
Artois, Comte d’ 167 Basques 189, 269, 294
Arundel, hotels 104 Babenberg dynasty 553, 555 Batalha 351
As the Old Sang, the Young Play Pipes Bacciarelli 712 Bath 43
(Jordaens) 224 Bach, Johann Sebastian 497, 515 hotels 105
Asam, Cosmas Damian 522–3 Bacharach 531 restaurants 108
Asam, Egid Quirin 523 Il Baciccia 383 street-by-street 78–9
Asamkirche (Munich) 14, 493, 522–3 Bacon, Francis 47 Bath Abbey 79
Ascona 589 Bad Cannstatt (Stuttgart) 529 Bathers at Asnières (Seurat) 57
Ashtown Castle (Dublin) 123 Baden-Württemberg 528–9 Baths
Asklepieion (Epidaurus) 467 Baerze, Jacques de 184 Baths of Caracalla (Rome) 385
Asklipieió 475 Baiona 292 Gellért Baths (Budapest) 697
Assisi 388–9 Bairro Alto (Lisbon) 344–5 Kaiserthermen (Trier) 530
hotels 440 Baixa (Lisbon) 344 Battlefields of Belgium 225
restaurants 442 Balaton, Lake 666, 700 Bauhaus 39, 515
The Assumption (El Greco) 288 Balatonberény 700 Bavaria 516–27
724-757_EW_Europe.indd 725 14/07/16 10:21 am

726  GENER AL INDEX


Bayerisches Nationalmuseum Belvedere (Vienna) 17, 564–5 Blue Caves (Zákynthos) 471
(Munich) 524 Bemberg, Georges 189 Boabdil 268, 313
Bayeux 173 Benáki Museum (Athens) 11, 457 Boats
Bayonne 189 Benákis, Antónios 457 Frammuseet (Oslo) 626
Bayreuth 516 Benedetto da Maiano 396 Gondolas of Venice 421
hotels 547 Benedict XI, Pope 389 Kon-Tiki Museum (Oslo) 626
Beaches Benedict XII, Pope 191 Museu da Marinha (Lisbon) 347
Costa Blanca 309 Benítses 471 Het Scheepvaartmuseum
Costa del Sol 311 Benz, Carl 524 (Amsterdam) 247
Côte d’Azur 196 Berdorf, hotels 234 Vasamuseet (Stockholm) 16, 608
Lake Balaton 700 Berenguer, Francesc 305 Vikingeskibsmuseet (Roskilde) 644
The Beatles 84 Bergen 598, 619, 628–9 Vikings 627
Beatrix, Queen of the Netherlands hotels 632 Vikingsskipshuset (Oslo) 626
238 restaurants 633 see also Ferries
Beaumaris, hotels 105 Berggruen, Heinz 509 Boboli Gardens (Florence) 407
Beaune 182 Berlin 10, 493, 500–513 Boccaccio, Giovanni 396
restaurants 210 climate 538 Bode, Wilhelm von 504
Beauvoir, Simone de 157 hotels 546 Bodensee 527
Beck, Moses 681 map 500–501 Bogusławski, Wojciech 713
Becker, Harriet 625 restaurants 549 Bohemia 666, 668, 684–5
Becket, Thomas à 72 shopping 542–3 Boileau, Louis-Auguste 164
Beckett, Samuel 118 tourist office 539 Bois de Boulogne (Paris) 167
Bede, Venerable 85 travel 541 Boitac, Diogo 348
The Bedroom (Van Gogh) 251 Two Days in Berlin 12–13 Boleslav II, Prince 676
Beer Berlin Wall 497 Bolesław I the Brave, King of Poland
Beers of Germany 526, 542 Berlusconi, Silvio 370 708
Belgium 232, 233 Bermejo, Bartolomé 280 Bolesław V the Chaste, Duke of
Czech Beers 685 Bern 582 Poland 718
Guinness Storehouse (Dublin) 13, climate 590 Boleyn, Anne 68
123 hotels 594 Bologna 424
Houishbrouwerij de Halve Maan restaurants 595 hotels 440
(Bruges) 228 Bernhardt, Sarah 167 restaurants 442–3
Beethoven, Ludwig van 497, 560, 563 Bernini, Gian Lorenzo 37 Bolton Abbey, restaurants 109
Beethovenhaus (Bonn) 533 Museo e Galleria Borghese (Rome) Bonaguida, Pacino di 397
Begijnhof (Amsterdam) 245 387 Bonaparte, Louis 244
Begijnhof (Bruges) 228 Piazza Navona (Rome) 382 Boniface, St. 496, 527
Behrens, Peter 529 St. Peter’s (Rome) 376, 377 Bonn 533
Beinhaus (Hallstatt) 568 Santa Maria del Popolo (Rome) 387 hotels 547
Béla III, King of Hungary 696, 697 Berrecci, Bartolomeo 717 restaurants 551
Béla IV, King of Hungary 696 Berruguete, Pedro de 280 Bonnard, Pierre 640
Belém (Lisbon) 346–9 Bessarion, Cardinal 403 The Book of Kells 13, 36, 118, 127
map 341 Betwys-y-Coed 77 Bookstores see Shopping
Belfast 132 Bianco, Bartolomeo 408 Boppard 531
hotels 138 Biarritz 189 Bordeaux 188
restaurants 139 hotels 207 hotels 207
Belfort (Bruges) 227 restaurants 211 restaurants 211
Belgium and Luxembourg 212–35 Biblioteca Mediceo-Laurenzia wines 186, 187
Battlefields of Belgium 225 (Florence) 396 Borghese, Prince Camillo 387
Belgium 216–28 Bicycles see Cycling Borghese, Pauline 387
Brussels 216–23 Bienvenida, Antonio 282 Borghese, Cardinal Scipione 387
entertainment 232–3 Big Ben (London) 51, 53 Borgia, Cesare 191
history 213–14 Bigarny, Philippe de 291 Bořivoj, Prince 674
hotels 234 Bilbao 294 Borough Market (London) 13, 100, 101
language and culture 214 hotels 330 Borredà, hotels 331
Luxembourg 229 Bildergalerie (Potsdam) 513 Borromeo, St. Charles (Carlo) 411, 563
map 215 Birger Jarl 605 Borromini, Francesco 382
practical information 230 Birka 610 Børsen (Copenhagen) 641
restaurants 235 Birmingham, restaurants 108 Bosch, Hieronymus 57, 228, 280, 345
shopping 232, 233 The Birth of Venus (Botticelli) 405, 406 The Garden of Delights 278
travel 231 Biskupski, Mirosław 714 Botticelli, Sandro 402
Bellagio 411 Bismarck, Count Otto von 38, 496 The Birth of Venus 405, 406
Bellini, Giovanni Bjørnson, Bjørnsterne 624 Galleria dell’Accademia (Florence)
Accademia (Venice) 423 Black Death 37 397
Ashmolean Museum (Oxford) 80 Black Forest 498, 528 Kelvingrove Art Gallery and
Kunsthistorisches Museum (Vienna) Blacklion, restaurants 139 Museum (Glasgow) 88
562 Blackpool, hotels 105 Museo di Capodimonte (Naples) 426
Santa Maria Gloriosa dei Frari Blaeu, Willem 244 Museo del Prado (Madrid) 280
(Venice) 420–21 Blake, William 56–7 National Gallery (London) 57
Santi Giovanni e Paolo (Venice) 421 Blanche de France 170 National Museum (Warsaw) 714
Staatsgalerie (Stuttgart) 529 Blarney Castle 128 Petit Palais (Avignon) 191
Vatican Museums (Rome) 380 Blenheim Palace 37, 82–3 Portrait of a Woman 532
Bellinzona 589 Blind Donkey Alley (Bruges) 227 Vatican Museums (Rome) 380
restaurants 595 Blois 177 Bouillon, hotels 234
Bellotto, Bernardo 712, 714 restaurants 210 Boulevard de la Croisette (Cannes)
Belvedere (Prague) 677 Blom, Piet 255 196
724-757_EW_Europe.indd 726 14/07/16 10:21 am

GENER AL INDEX  727


Boulevard St-Michel (Paris) 156 Bruges (cont.) Buses (cont.)
Boulle, André Charles 160 street-by-street 226–7 Norway 631
Bouman, Elias 243 Brühl, Heinrich von 515 Poland 721
Boumann, Jan 506 Brunel, Isambard Kingdom 76 Portugal 359
Bourbon family 304 Brunelleschi, Filippo 399, 400, 402, 403 Spain 325
Bourglinster, restaurants 235 Bruni, Leonardo 400 Sweden 615
Bowness 85 Bruparck (Brussels) 223 Switzerland 591
Boyle, Richard, Earl of Cork 121 Brussels 143, 212, 213, 216–23 Butler family 125
Brabo, Silvius 224 airport 231 Butte de Lion (Waterloo) 225
Brahms, Johannes 497 Brussels and the European Union Bygdøy Peninsula 626
Bramante, Donato 378, 387 222 Byron, Lord 460
Brancusi, Constantin 153, 422 climate 230 Byzantine and Christian Museum
Brandenburg Gate (Berlin) 12, 502 hotels 234 (Athens) 11, 457
Brandl, Petr 676 map 216–17 Byzantine Italy 425
Brangwyn, Frank 227 restaurants 235
Braque, Georges 153, 422, 509, 625 Bruyn, Guillaume de 218 C
Braun, Antonín 682 Bruyn, Sophia de 251 Cabaret, France 204, 205
Braun, Matthias 676, 679 Bryggen (Bergen) 628 Cabinet War Rooms (London) 52
Braunfels, Stephan 524 Buçaco National Forest 354 Cabo da Roca 350
Bremen 536–7 Buckingham Palace (London) 13, 56 Cabo de São Vicente 357
hotels 548 Budapest 667, 691, 694–9 Cabral, Pedro Alvares 346
restaurants 551 airport 703 Cádiz 315
Brendan, St. 127 Buda 696–7 hotels 332
Brian Boru 112 climate 702 restaurants 334
Bridges hotels 704 Caernarfon 77
Bridge of Sighs (Venice) 419 map 694–5 Caesar, Julius 145, 182, 214, 384
Charles Bridge (Prague) 15, 664–5, Pest 698–9 Cafés, Internet 22
671, 679 restaurants 705 Cairngorms 95
Halfpenny Bridge (Dublin) 122 tourist information 703 Calle Mateos Gago (Seville) 319
Kapellbrücke (Lucerne) 586 Budapest History Museum Callejón del Agua (Seville) 319
Millennium Foot Bridge (London) (Budapest) 696 Callixtus I, Pope 381
50 Bulbfields of the Netherlands 253 Calton Hill (Edinburgh) 94
Öresund Bridge 613 Bullfighting 283 Calvin, Jean 578
Pont Neuf (Paris) 152 Córdoba 314 Camargue 194
Pont St-Bénézet (Avignon) 191 Plaza de Toros de la Maestranza Cambridge 81
Ponte Vecchio (Florence) 407 (Seville) 321 hotels 105
Ponts-Couvert (Strasbourg) 172 Plaza de Toros de las Ventas restaurants 109
Puente Nuevo (Ronda) 314 (Madrid) 282 Cambridge, Duke and Duchess of 54
Puente Romano (Salamanca) 285 Plaza de Toros & Museo Camden Lock (London) 100, 101
Rialto Bridge (Venice) 17, 421 Taurino(Ronda) 314 Camera Obscura and World of
Tower Bridge (London) 13, 67 Portugal 361 Illusions (Edinburgh) 92
Brighton 48, 72 Spain 269, 328, 329 Camogli 408
hotels 104 Bundeshaus (Bern) 582 Campanile (Florence) 398
restaurants 108 Bundestag (Berlin) 495, 502 Campen, Jacob van 244, 252
Brione 589 Bunratty Castle 130 Canal tours
Bristol 76 Burges, William 77 Great Britain 259
hotels 105 Burggarten (Vienna) 558, 560 Ireland 137
restaurants 108 Burghley, William Cecil, 1st Lord 83 Netherlands 259
Britain see Great Britain Burghley House 83 Canalejas, José 274
British Museum (London) 32, 60–61 Burgos 289–91 Canaletto 423
Brno, hotels 688 hotels 331 Cangas de Onís 293
Broederlam, Melchior 184 Burgtheater (Vienna) 561 hotels 331
Brokof, Ferdinand Maximilián 676 Burgundy 182–5 Cannes 196
Bronzino 396, 401, 406 hotels 207 hotels 208
Brown cafés (Netherlands) 258–9 restaurants 210–11 restaurants 211
Brown, Lancelot (Capability) 82, 83 wines 187 Canova, Antonio 387, 420, 421, 558
Bruand, Libéral 162 Burgundy, Dukes of 182, 184 Canterbury 72
Die Brücke 503 Buring, J.G. 513 hotels 104
Brücke-Museum (Berlin) 510 Burke, Edmund 118 restaurants 108
Brueghel, Peter the Elder Burmeisterska Huset (Visby) 611 Canute, King 52
Alte Pinakothek (Munich) 523 Burns, Robert 92, 94 Cão, Diogo 346
Hunters in the Snow 562 Buses 27 Cap Ferrat 196
Kunsthistorisches Museum (Vienna) Austria 571 Capelle, Jan van de 250
562 Belgium and Luxembourg 231 Capitoline Museums (Rome) 16, 383
Monasterio de las Descalzas Reales Czech Republic 687 Capri 426
(Madrid) 275 Denmark 647 hotels 440
Musée Royaux des Beaux-Arts Finland 661 restaurants 443
(Brussels) 220 France 201 Car rental see Road travel
Museo del Prado (Madrid) 280 Germany 541 Caravaggio
National Gallery (London) 57 Great Britain 99 Bildergalerie (Berlin) 513
The Tower of Babel 255 Greece 480, 481 Capitoline Museum (Rome) 383
Brueghel, Peter the Younger 228, 566 Hungary 703 Galleria Doria Pamphilj (Rome) 383
Bruges 215, 226–8 Ireland 135 Galleria Regionale di Palazzo
hotels 234 Italy 432, 433 Bellomo (Syracuse) 429
restaurants 235 Netherlands 257 Gemäldegalerie (Berlin) 503
724-757_EW_Europe.indd 727 14/07/16 10:21 am

728  GENER AL INDEX


Caravaggio (cont.) Castles (cont.) Castles (cont.)
Monte della Misericordia (Naples) Burg Eltz 530 Stirling Castle 89
426 Burg Katz 531 Suomenlinna Sea Fortress (Helsinki)
Museo del Prado (Madrid) 280 Caernfarfon Castle 77 657
National Gallery (London) 57 Cardiff Castle 77 Tower of London 13, 68–9
Palazzo Rosso (Genoa) 408 Casemates (Luxembourg City) 229 Turku 657
Santa Maria del Popolo (Rome) 387 Castel Nuovo (Naples) 426 Uppsala Slott 610–11
Uffizi (Florence) 406 Castel Sant’ Angelo (Rome) 381 Urquhart Castle 95
Vatican Museums (Rome) 380 Castel Sant Elmo (Naples) 426 Vajdahunyad Castle (Budapest) 699
Carcassonne 190 Castell de Montjuïc (Barcelona) 304 Weimar Schloss 515
hotels 208 Castello Estense (Ferrara) 424 Windsor Castle 74–5
restaurants 211 Castello Maniace (Syracuse) 429 see also Palaces
Cardiff 77 Castello Sforzesco (Milan) 410 Castletown House 124
hotels 105 Castelo dos Mouros (Sintra) 350 Castro, Inês de 351, 354
restaurants 108 Castelo de São Jorge (Lisbon) 343 Castro, Machado de 344
Carl XVI Gustaf, King of Sweden 606 Castelvecchio (Verona) 412, 413 Castro, Ruiz de 426
Carl Augustus, Duke of Weimar 515 Castillo de Gibralfaro (Málaga) 311 Catalonia 295–307
Carlos I, King of Portugal 342, 344, 347 Charles Fort (Kinsale) 129 hotels 331
Carlos I, King of Spain 284 Château d’Annecy 183 restaurants 334
Carlos III, King of Spain (Charles VII of Château de Bois 177 Catamarans (Greece) 481
Naples) 274, 275, 276, 278, 426 Château de Chillon 581 Catarina, Dona 348
Carlos IV, King of Spain 275 Château Comtal (Carcassonne) 190 Cathedrals
Carlu, Jacques 164 Château des Ducs de Bretagne Aberdeen 89
Carnac 173 (Nantes) 176 Avila 285
restaurants 209 Château Royal de Tours 177 Barcelona 12, 298, 299
Carnation Revolution 338, 344 Château de St-Malo 173 Basel 581
Carolina Rediviva (Uppsala) 610 Château de Vianden 214, 229 Belfast 132
Caroline, Queen of England 62 Citadel (Pamplona) 294 Berliner Dom 12, 506–7
Carpaccio, Vittore 191, 420, 422, 423 Dublin Castle 13, 120–21 Bern 582
St. Augustine in his Study 403 Dunvegan Castle (Skye) 95 Bristol 76
Carpeaux, Jean Baptiste 162 Durham Castle 85 Budolfi Domkirke (Aalborg) 645
Carracci, Annibale 57 Edinburgh Castle 91, 92 Burgos 290–91
Carré d’Art (Nîmes) 190 Eger Castle 701 Cádiz 315
Carson, Lord 132 Esztergom Castle 700 Canterbury 72
Cartagena, hotels 331 Festung Ehrenbreitstein (Koblenz) Cathédrale Orthodoxe Russe
Cartmel, restaurants 109 531 St-Nicolas (Nice) 197
Carvelho e Melo, Sebastião José de 345 Festung Hohensalzburg (Salzburg) Chartres 36, 180–81
Casa de l’Ardiaca (Barcelona) 298 568 Chester 84
Casa Batlló (Barcelona) 301 Festung Marienberg (Würzburg) 516 Christ Church (Dublin) 121
Casa de la Ciutat (Barcelona) 298 Fort de la Bastille (Grenoble) 183 Christchurch (Waterford) 125
Casa del Cordón (Burgos) 289 Fortétsa (Réthymno) 477 Christós Elkómenos (Monemvasía)
Casa del Rey Moro (Ronda) 314 Fortezza Medicea (Siena) 392 468
Casa-Museo de El Greco (Toledo) 288 Fortress (Irákleio) 476 Chur 588
Casa-Museu Gaudí (Barcelona) 305 Frederiksborg Slot 644 Cologne 534–5
Cascais 350 Het Gravensteen (Ghent) 224–5 Córdoba 318
hotels 362 Heidelberger Schloss 529 Krakow 716, 717
restaurants 363 Kaiserburg (Nuremberg) 517 Dom (Bremen) 536–7
Caserta 426 Karlstein Castle 668, 684 Dom (Lübeck) 537
Cashel 128 Kastellet (Copenhagen) 638 Dom St. Kilian (Würzburg) 516
hotels 138 Kástro (Mystrás) 469 Dom St. Paulus (Münster) 536
Cassone Adimari (Lo Scheggia ) 397 Kelefá Castle (Máni Peninsula) 468 Domkerk (Utrecht) 253
Castel Sant’ Angelo (Rome) 381 Kilkenny Castle 125 Domkirche St. Jakob (Innsbruck) 569
Castelgrande 589 Kronborg Slot (Helsingør) 644 Domkyrkan (Uppsala) 610
Castell de Guadalest 309 Krumlovský zámek (Český Krumlov) Domkyrkan (Visby) 611
Castilho, João de 348, 349 685 Dublin 13
Castle Hill (Budapest) 695 Linz Castle 567 Duomo (Assisi) 389
Castle Howard 83 Montebello 589 Duomo (Como) 411
Castles Neuschwanstein 527 Duomo di Santa Maria del Fiore
Aalborghus Slot (Aalborg) 645 New Fortress (Corfu Town) 470 (Florence) 37, 395, 398–9
Acrocorinth 466 Olavinlinna (Savonlinna) 657 Duomo (Mantua) 412
Aggstein 553, 567 Old Fortress (Corfu Town) 470 Duomo (Milan) 410
Akershus Slott (Oslo) 623 Palais de l’Isle (Annecy) 183 Duomo (Naples) 426
Akronafplía (Náfplio) 467 Palamídi (Náfplio) 467 Duomo (Padua) 413
Albrechtsburg (Meissen) 515 Prague Castle 15, 674–5 Duomo (Palermo) 428
Alcazaba (Málaga) 311 Rock of Cashel 128 Duomo (Perugia) 389
Alcázar (Jerez de la Frontera) 315 Rosenborg Slot (Copenhagen) 643 Duomo (Pisa) 36, 393
Alcázar (Segovia) 284 Royal Castle (Krakow) 716, 717 Duomo (Siena) 390, 392
Alcázar (Toledo) 287, 288 Royal Castle (Warsaw) 667, 712 Duomo (Syracuse) 429
Alte Burg (Koblenz) 531 St. Andrews Castle 89 Duomo (Taormina) 428
Basilika und Kurfürstliches Schloss Sasso Corbaro 589 Duomo (Turin) 409
(Trier) 530 Schloss Hohenschwangau 527 Duomo (Urbino) 425
Blarney Castle 128 Schloss Stolzenfels 531 Duomo (Verona) 413
Boúrtzi (Náfplio) 467 Schönbühel 567 Durham 36, 85
Bunratty Castle 130 SS Peter and Paul Fortress Eger 701
Burg (Graz) 566 (St. Petersburg) 659 Esztergom 700
724-757_EW_Europe.indd 728 14/07/16 10:21 am

GENER AL INDEX  729


Cathedrals (cont.) Cathedrals (cont.) Charlemagne, Emperor 36, 146, 370,
Ferrara 424 Szentendre (Belgrade) 700 496, 553
Freiburg im Breisgau 528 Tarragona 295 Charles I, King of England 46, 68
Glasgow 88 Toledo 287, 288 Banqueting House (London) 53
Granada 310 Turku 657 Greyfriars Kirk (Edinburgh) 93
Helsinki 656 Uspenski Cathedral (Helsinki) 655 Museum of London (London) 66
Ishavskatedralen (Tromsø) 629 Valencia 308 Richmond Park (London) 71
Jerez de la Frontera 315 York Minster 86, 87 Charles II, King of England 56, 68, 94
Kaiserdom (Frankfurt am Main) 532 see also Churches Charles III, Prince of Monaco 197
Kaiserdom (Mainz) 530–31 Catherine, St. 390, 392 Charles IV, Emperor 496, 517
León 289 Catherine de’ Medici 170, 178, 179 Charles Bridge (Prague) 679
Liverpool 84 Catholic Church Karlsbad 684
London 13 St. Peter’s (Rome) 16, 376–7 Karlstein Castle 684
Málaga 311 Spain 269 Prague 669, 670, 682
Manchester 84 Cavallini, Pietro 381 Royal Palace (Prague) 676
Mitrópoli Zoödóchou Pigís (Náxos) Caves Charles V, Emperor (Carlos I of Spain)
473 Dachstein limestone caves 568 37, 146, 214, 555
Monreale 428 Dragon’s Lair (Krakow) 717 Capitoline Museums (Rome) 383
Nidaros Cathedral (Trondheim) 629 Lascaux 188 Louvre (Paris) 160
Notre-Dame (Bayeux) 173 Lummelundagrottorna 611 Real Alcázar (Seville) 320
Notre-Dame (Luxembourg City) 229 Cellini, Benvenuto 160, 400, 401, 407, statue 287
Notre-Dame (Paris) 152, 154–5 562 Charles V, King of France 158, 160,
Notre-Dame (Reims) 172 Celtic Christianity 126–7 170
Notre-Dame (Rouen) 173 Cenotaph (London) 53 Charles VII, King of Naples see Carlos
Notre-Dame (Strasbourg) 172 Central and Eastern Europe 664–723 III, King of Spain
Notre-Dame-des-Doms (Avignon) map 666–7 Charles VIII, King of France 176, 403
191 see also Czech Republic; Hungary; Charles, Prince of Wales 66
Notre-Dame et St-Castor (Nîmes) 190 Poland Charles of Anjou 426
Onze Lieve Vrouwe (Antwerp) 224 Central Hall (London) 52 Charles the Bold, Duke of Burgundy
Oporto (Sé) 355 Centre Belge de la Bande Dessineée 182, 578, 579
Oviedo 293 (Brussels) 220 Charles Bridge (Prague) 15, 664–5,
Palma 309 Centre Excursionista de Catalunya 671, 679
Pamplona 294 (Barcelona) 298 Charles Martel 176
Paris 15 Centre Pompidou (Paris) 39, 153 Charlie, Bonnie Prince 94, 95
Pécs 701 Centro de Arte Reina Sofia (Madrid) Charlotte Square (Edinburgh) 92
Prague 15 14, 281 Charter flights 24–5
Roskilde Domkirke 644 Centrum Judaicum (Berlin) 505 see also Air travel
St.Ägydius (Graz) 566 Ceramics Chartres
St. Andrews 89 Germany 543 Cathedral 36, 180–81
St. Baafskathedral (Ghent) 225 Portugal 360 hotels 207
St. Barbara (Kutná Hora) 684 see also Shopping restaurants 210
St. Canice’s (Kilkenny) 125 Český Krumlov 685 Château de Blois 177
Sainte-Croix (Orléans) 179 hotels 688 Château de Chambord 37, 179
St-Gatien (Tours) 177 restaurants 689 Château de Chenonceau 178–9
St. Giles (Edinburgh) 92, 93 Cézanne, Paul Château Figeac 187
St. Isaac’s (St. Petersburg) 658 Atelier Paul Cézanne (Aix-en- Château de Fontainebleau 171
St-Jean (Lyon) 182 Provence) 194 Château Haut-Brion 187
St. John’s (Warsaw) 712 Musée de l’Orangerie (Paris) 161 Château Lafite Rothschild 187
St-Louis (Blois) 177 Nasjonalgalleriet (Oslo) 625 Château Margaux 187
St. Mark’s (Venice) 17, 36, 416–17 Rosengart Collection (Lucerne) 586 Château de Vaux-le-Vicomte
St. Patrick’s (Dublin) 120–21 Sammlung Berggruen (Berlin) 509 170–71
St. Paul’s (London) 37, 66 Chablis, restaurants 210 Château de Versailles 37, 168–9
St. Peter and St. George (Bamberg) Chagall, Marc Chatsworth House 83
516 Kunsten (Aalborg) 645 Chaucer, Geoffrey 55, 72
St. Peter’s (Rome) 16, 376–7 Musée Chagall (Nice) 197 Checkpoint Charlie (Berlin) 12, 508
St-Pierre (Geneva) 580 Peggy Guggenheim Collection Chenonceaux
St-Pierre et St-Paul (Nantes) 176 (Venice) 422 Château de Chenonceaux 178–9
St-Sauveur (Aix-en-Provence) 194 St. Peter’s (Zürich) 587 hotels 207
St. Stephans Dom (Passau) 527 Sprengel-Museum (Hanover) 536 Chermayeff, Peter 342
St. Vitus’s (Prague) 666, 674, 675 Stedelijk Museum (Amsterdam) 251 Chersónisos 476
Sts-Michel et Gudule (Brussels) 220 Chain Bridge (Budapest) 695 Chester 84
Salamanca 285 Chalgrin, Jean 165 Chester Beatty Library (Dublin) 13,
Salisbury 73 Chalkí 473 120
San Lorenzo (Genoa) 408 Chambéry, hotels 207 Chevrolet, Louis 581
Santander 293 Chambord, Château de 37, 179 Chichester, hotels 104
Santiago de Compostela 292 Champagne 172, 187 Chiesa see Churches
Sé (Évora) 356 Champex Lac, hotels 594 Chigi, Agostino 381, 387
Sé (Faro) 356 Champollion, Jean-François 60 Chilehaus (Hamburg) 537
Sé (Lisbon) 343 Champs-Elysées (Paris) 15, 140–41, Chillida, Eduardo 281, 294
Sé Velha & Sé Nova (Coimbra) 354 165 Chinatown (London) 13, 58
Segovia 284 Chaniá 477 Chinchon, restaurants 334
Seville 318, 320 hotels 486 Chinesisches Teehaus (Potsdam) 512
Stavanger Domkirke 628 restaurants 489 Chinon, hotels 207
Stephansdom (Vienna) 17, 561 Channel Tunnel 99, 200, 201 Chirac, Jacques 147
Storkyrken (Stockholm) 16, 605 Chanterène, Nicolau 348 Chirico, Giorgio de 608
724-757_EW_Europe.indd 729 14/07/16 10:21 am

730  GENER AL INDEX


Chocolate 232, 233 Churches (cont.) Churches (cont.)
Chopin, Frédéric 167 Church on Spilled Blood (St. Monte della Misericordia (Naples)
Christ, Jesus Petersburg) 658 426
Heilig Bloed Basiliek (Bruges) 228 Colegiata de San Isidro (León) 289 Neumünster (Würzburg) 516
Turin Shroud 409 Collégiale Notre-Dame (Beaune) 182 Nieuwe Kerk (Amsterdam) 11, 244
Christ (Michelangelo) 75 Collegiate Church (Neuchâtel) 581 Nieuwe Kerk (Delft) 255
Christ Church Cathedral (Dublin) 13, Dôme Church (Paris) 163 Nikolaikirche (Hamburg) 537
121 Eglise St-André (Grenoble) 183 Nikolaikirche (Leipzig) 515
Christian III, King of Denmark 613 Eglise St-Didier (Avignon) 191 Notre-Dame (Dijon) 184
Christian IV, King of Denmark 623, Eglise St-Etienne (Dijon) 185 Notre-Dame de l’Espérance
635, 636 Eglise St-Joseph (Waterloo) 225 (Cannes) 196
Børsen (Copenhagen) 641 Eglise St-Maclou (Rouen) 173 Notre-Dame du Sablon (Brussels)
Frederiksborg Slot 644 Eglise St-Nicolas (Blois) 177 221
Rosenborg Slot (Copenhagen) 643 Eglise St-Ouen (Rouen) 173 Notre-Dame-de-la-Garde
Christian VI, King of Denmark 640–41 Eglise St-Trophime (Arles) 192, 193 (Marseilles) 194
Christian VIII, King of Denmark 642 Fantoft Stavkirke 628 Notre-Dame-la-Grande (Poitiers)
Christian IX, King of Denmark 642 Franziskanerkirche (Rothenburg ob 176
Christiania 643 der Tauber) 517 Notre-Dame-de-la-Major (Arles) 193
Christianity Frauenkirche (Dresden) 514 Onze Lieve Vrouwekerk (Bruges)
Early Celtic 126–7 Frauenkirche (Munich) 14, 522 226
spread of 35 Frauenkirche (Nuremberg) 517 Oratorio dei Pellegrini (Assisi) 389
Christiansborg Palace (Copenhagen) Fraumünster (Zürich) 587 Oratorio di San Bernardino (Perugia)
640–41 Gallarus Oratory (Dingle Peninsula) 389
Christo 536 129 Oratorio de San Felipe (Cádiz) 315
Christus, Petrus 281 Il Gesù (Genoa) 408 Oude Kerk (Amsterdam) 241, 242
Our Lady of the Dry Tree 276, 281 Gesù (Rome) 383 Oude Kerk (Delft) 255
Chur 588 Greyfriars Kirk (Edinburgh) 93 Our Lady Before Týn (Prague) 15,
Churches Groß St. Martin 533 682
Agía Sofía (Monemvasía) 468 Grossmünster (Zürich) 587 Our Lady of the Snows (Prague) 683
Agios Geórgios (Náfplio) 467 Grote Kerk (Alkmaar) 252 Panagía Myrtidióssa (Monemvasía)
Agios Márkos (Irákleio) 476 Grote Kerk (Haarlem) 252 468
Agios Nikólaos Ragavás (Athens) 453 Heilig Bloed Basiliek (Bruges) 228 Panagía Paraportianí (Mýkonos) 472
Agios Panteleímon (Ano Heiliggeistkirche (Heidelberg) 529 Panthéon (Paris) 157
Mpoulárioi) 468 Hofkirche (Innsbruck) 569 Pfarrkirche (Hallstatt) 568
Agios Spyrídon (Corfu Town) 470 Iglesia de la Magdalena (Zaragoza) Pieterskerk (Leiden) 254
Agios Theódoros (Vámvaka) 468 308 Riddarholmskyrkan (Stockholm) 16,
Agios Títos (Irákleio) 476 Iglesia de San Lorenzo (Burgos) 289 606
Alte Nikolaikirche (Frankfurt am Iglesia de San Miguel de Escalada Sacré-Coeur (Paris) 15, 166
Main) 532 (León) 289 Sagrada Família (Barcelona) 12, 38,
Asamkirche (Munich) 14, 493, 522–3 Iglesia de San Nicolás (Burgos) 289 265, 302–3
Augustinerkirche (Vienna) 558, 560 Iglesia de San Pedro (Avila) 285 St. Anna’s Church (Warsaw) 713
Baptistère St-Jean (Poitiers) 176 Iglesia de San Román (Toledo) 286 St. Ann’s Church (Dublin) 116
Basílica de Nuestra Señora del Pilar Iglesia de San Saturnino (Pamplona) St. Florin (Koblenz) 531
(Zaragoza) 308 294 St. George’s Basilica and Convent
Basilica di San Francesco (Assisi) 36, Iglesia de San Tirso (Oviedo) 293 (Prague) 675, 676
388–9 Iglesia de San Vicente (Avila) 285 St-Germain-des-Prés (Paris) 157
Basilica di Santa Chiara (Assisi) 389 Iglesia de Santa Ana (Granada) 310 St. Ignatius (Linz) 567
Basílica de Santa Maria del Mar Iglesia de Santo Tomé (Toledo) 286, St. Jakobs Kirche (Rothenburg ob
(Barcelona) 300 288 der Tauber) 517
Basilica di Sant’Antonio (Padua) 413 Iglesia-Convento de San Esteban St. James Church (London) 58–9
Basilica dei Santi Maria e Donato (Salamanca) 285 St-Julien-le-Pauvre (Paris) 157
(Murano) 423 Igreja do Carmo (Faro) 357 St. Leonhardkirche (Frankfurt am
Basilica di Superga (Turin) 409 Igreja do Carmo (Lisbon) 345 Main) 532
Basílica de la Virgen de los Igreja dos Clérigos (Oporto) 355 St. Lorenz-Kirche (Nuremberg) 517
Desamparados (Valencia) 308 Inner City Parish Church (Budapest) St-Louis-des-Invalides (Paris) 162–3
Basilika und Kurfürstliches Schloss 698 St. Margaret’s Church (London) 52
(Trier) 530 Les Jacobins (Toulouse) 188–9 St. Martin-in-the-Fields (London) 58
Basilique Notre-Dame de Fourvière Jakobkirche (Hamburg) 537 St. Mary’s Church (Krakow) 667, 706,
(Lyon) 182 Kaiser-Wilhelm-Gedächtniskirche 718–19
Basilique de St-Denis (Paris) 170 (Berlin) 12, 13, 499, 508 St-Michel (Dijon) 185
Basilique St-Michel (Bordeaux) 188 Karlskirche (Vienna) 563 St. Nicholas (Malá Strana, Prague)
Basilique St-Nazaire (Carcassonne) Kímisi tis Theotókou (Asklipieió) 475 15, 678
190 Lambertikirche (Münster) 536 St. Nicholas (Old Square, Prague)
Basilique St-Remi (Reims) 172 Liebfrauenkirche (Koblenz) 531 673, 682
Basilique de St-Sernin (Toulouse) 189 Madonna del Sasso 589 St. Olave’s Church (York) 86
Basilique Ste-Madeleine (Vézelay) Mariakirken (Bergen) 598, 628 St. Paul’s Church, Covent Garden
182 Marienkirche (Lübeck) 537 (London) 59
Blagovestenska Church Markt-kirche St. Georg und St. St. Peter (Cologne) 533
(Szentendre) 700 Jacobus (Hanover) 536 St. Peter’s (Rome) 16, 376–7
Burgkapelle (Vienna) 558, 560 Marmorkirken (Copenhagen) 642 St. Peter’s (Zürich) 587
Capilla Real (Granada) 310 Mary Magdalene (Karlsbad) 685 St Petri’s Kyrka (Malmö) 613
Cappella Palatina (Palermo) 428 Mátyás Church (Budapest) 667, 697 St-Séverin (Paris) 156
Cappella degli Scrovegni (Padua) 413 Michaeliskirche (Hamburg) 537 St. Stephen’s Basilica (Budapest)
Cappelle Medicee (Florence) 396 Minorite Church (Eger) 701 698–9
Catholic Church (Pécs) 701 Mitrópoli (Mystrás) 469 St. Ursula (Cologne) 533
724-757_EW_Europe.indd 730 14/07/16 10:21 am

GENER AL INDEX  731


Churches (cont.) Cimabue 388, 393, 400, 406 Columbus, Christopher (cont.)
Sainte-Chapelle (Paris) 15, 152 Cimetière du Père Lachaise (Paris) 167 Seville 321
San Domenico (Bologna) 424 Cinema Combarro 292
San Domenico (Perugia) 389 Filmpark Babelsberg (Potsdam) 511 Comic strips, Centre Belge de la
San Domenico (Siena) 392 see also Entertainment Bande Dessinée (Brussels) 220
San Domenico Maggiore (Naples) Cione, Nardo di 396 Communications 22
426 Cipriani, Giovanni 56 Austria 570–71
San Esteban (Segovia) 284 The Circus (Bath) 78 Belgium and Luxembourg 230
San Fermo Maggiore (Verona) 413 Cité de l’Architecture et du Czech Republic 686
San Frediano (Lucca) 393 Patrimoine (Paris) 164 Denmark 646
San Giacomo Maggiore (Bologna) Cité de l’Espace (Toulouse) 188 Finland 660
424 Cité de la Musique (Paris) 167, 204, 205 France 199
San Giovanni a Carbonara (Naples) Cité des Sciences et de l’Industrie Germany 539
426 (Paris) 166–7 Great Britain 97
San Juan de los Caballeros City Hall (Helsinki) 655 Greece 479
(Segovia) 284 The City of London 66–7 Hungary 703
San Julián de los Prados (Oviedo) 293 Ciutadella 270, 309 Ireland 134
San Lorenzo (Florence) 396 Clare, St. 389 Italy 431
San Lorenzo (Milan) 411 Claude Lorrain 280, 383 Netherlands 256
San Lorenzo (Turin) 409 Clement V, Pope 191 Norway 630
San Marco (Florence) 397 Clement VI, Pope 191 Poland 720–21
San Martín (Segovia) 284 Clement VII, Pope 402 Portugal 359
San Martino (Lucca) 393 Clement XII, Pope 383 Spain 323
San Michele in Foro (Lucca) 393 Cliffs of Moher 110 Sweden 614
San Miguel de Lillo (Oviedo) 293 Climate 20, 21 Switzerland 590
San Petronio (Bologna) 424 Austria 570 Como 411
San Pietro (Assisi) 389 Belgium and Luxembourg 230 Como, Lake 411
San Pietro (Perugia) 389 Czech Republic 686 restaurants 442
San Vitale (Ravenna) 425 Denmark 646 Comyn, John, Archbishop of Dublin
San Zeno Maggiore (Verona) 413 Finland 660 120
Santa Chiara (Naples) 426 France 198 Conciergerie (Paris) 152
Santa Clara (Oporto) 355 Germany 538 Congreso de los Diputados (Madrid)
Santa Croce (Florence) 400 Great Britain 96 276
Santa Cruz (Coimbra) 354 Greece 478 Conímbriga 354
Santa Francesca Romana (Rome) 384 Hungary 702 Conjunt Monumental de la Plaça del
Santa Maria del Coro (San Ireland 134 Rei (Barcelona) 299
Sebastián) 294 Italy 430 Connemara 131
Santa Maria Gloriosa dei Frari Netherlands 256 Conolly, William 124
(Venice) 17, 420–21 Norway 630 Constable, John 57
Santa Maria Maggiore (Rome) 386 Poland 720 Constance, Lake 527
Santa María del Naranco (Oviedo) Portugal 358 Constantine I, Emperor 35
293 Spain 322 Arch of Constantine (Rome) 385
Santa Maria Novella (Florence) 396 Sweden 614 Edict of Milan 410
Santa Maria del Popolo (Rome) 387 Switzerland 590 St. Peter’s (Rome) 376
Santa Maria della Salute (Venice) 422 Clock Tower (Bern) 582 Trier 530
Santa Maria in Trastevere (Rome) 381 Clonmacnoise 126, 127 Constantius, Emperor 417
Sant’Agostino (Genoa) 408 Cloth Hall (Krakow) 718 Consulates see Practical information
Sant’Agostino (San Gimignano) 393 The Clothed Maja (Goya) 279 Convents
Sant’Ambrogio (Milan) 411 Clothing stores see Shopping Begijnhof (Amsterdam) 245
Sant’Anastasia (Verona) 413 Clovelly, hotels 105 Begijnhof (Bruges) 228
Sant’Apollinare Nuovo (Ravenna) Clovis, King of the Franks 35, 146, 219 Convento de Cristo (Tomar) 350, 351
35, 425 Clubs see Entertainment Convento de las Dueñas
Santi Giovanni e Paolo (Venice) 421 Clusius, Carolus 253 (Salamanca) 285
São Francisco (Évora) 356 Coca Cola London Eye 13, 53 Convento de San Martiño Pinario
São Francisco (Faro) 356 Coello, Claudio 274 (Santiago de Compostela) 292
São Francisco (Oporto) 355 Coffee shops Convento de Santa Teresa (Avila) 285
São Pedro (Faro) 357 Austria 573 Convento de Santo Domingo de
São Roque (Lisbon) 345 Netherlands 258–9 Bonaval (Santiago de Compostela)
São Tiago (Coimbra) 354 Coimbra 354 292
São Vicente de Fora (Lisbon) 342 hotels 362 Iglesia-Convento de San Esteban
Sint Jacobskerk (Antwerp) 224 restaurants 363 (Salamanca) 285
Storkyrkan (Stockholm) 16 Coins, Euro 23 St. George’s Basilica and Convent
Taxiarchón (Charoúda) 468 Collegium Maius (Krakow) 719 (Prague) 675, 676
Temple Expiatori del Sagrat Cor Collet, Charles 307 Santa Clara (Coimbra) 354
(Barcelona) 305 Cologne 533–5 Santa Maria delle Grazie (Milan) 411
Temppeliaukio Church (Helsinki) hotels 548 Conversion chart 21
656–7 restaurants 551 Copenhagen 596–7, 598, 634, 638–43
Thomaskirche (Leipzig) 515 Colosseum (Rome) 16, 35, 374, 385 airport 646, 647
Wallfahrtskirche Mariahilf (Passau) Columba, St. 126 climate 646
527 Columbanus, St. 126 hotels 648
Westerkerk (Amsterdam) 11, 246 Columbus, Christopher 37, 268 map 638–9
see also Cathedrals Barcelona 298 restaurants 649
Churchill, Winston 52, 66, 82 Burgos 289 Copernicus, Nicolas 713, 719
El Cid 289 Monument (Barcelona) 300 Coppet 580
tomb of 290, 291 Santa Maria Maggiore (Rome) 386 Corazzi, Antonio 713
724-757_EW_Europe.indd 731 14/07/16 10:21 am

732  GENER AL INDEX


Corday, Charlotte 161 Currency 22–3 Delft 255
Córdoba 314, 316–17 see also Practical information hotels 260
hotels 332 Custom House (Dublin) 122 restaurants 261
restaurants 334 Customs and duty-free 20–21 della Rovere family 382
Corfu 470–71 Cuthbert, St. 85 Delos 472
hotels 485 Cutty Sark (London) 70 Delphi, Ancient 461
restaurants 488 Cuvilliés, François de 521, 525 hotels 485
Corfu Town 470 Cuypers, P.J.H. 248, 250 Deltebre, hotels 331
Corinth, Ancient 466 Cyclades 444, 472–3 Delvaux, Paul 228
hotels 484 hotels 486 Demoulin, Louis 225
Corippo 589 restaurants 488–9 Denia 309
Cork 128 Cycling see Sports and outdoor Denmark 634–49
restaurants 139 activities Copenhagen 638–43
Corn Exchange (Bristol) 76 Czartoryski Museum (Krakow) 719 history 635–6
Cornejo, Pedro Duque 316 Czech Republic 668–89 hotels 648
Cornwall 76 climate 686 language and culture 636
Corot, Camille 166 history 669–70 map 637
Corral del Carbón (Granada) 310 hotels 688 practical information 646–7
Correggio, Antonio da 387 language and culture 670 restaurants 649
Correr, Teodoro 420 map 671 travel 646–7
Cortes de la Frontera, hotels 332 practical information 686–7 Department stores see Shopping
Costa, Lorenzo 424 Prague 15–16, 672–83 The Deposition (Lorenzetti) 388
Costa Blanca 309 restaurants 689 Derain, André 161
Costa del Sol 311 travel 686–7 Déry, Tibor 693
Côte d’Azur 196–7 Descartes, René 157
Courbet, Gustave 165, 253 D Designer fashion
Cousteau, Jacques 197 Da Gama, Vasco 338, 346, 347 France 202–3
Coustou, Guillaume 158 tomb of 348 Italy 434, 435
Couture, Thomas 162 Dachstein limestone caves 568 Deutsches Eck (Koblenz) 531
Covadonga 293 Dafní, Monastery of 460 Deutsches Museum (Munich) 14, 524
Covent Garden (London) 13, 59, 100, Dahl, Johann Christian 625 Deutsches Nationaltheater (Weimar)
101 Dahlem (Berlin) 510 515
Coysevox, Antoine 158 Dalarna 611 Devenish Island 127
Crabeth, Dirk, The Death of the Virgin Dalí, Salvador 67, 281, 422 Devon 76
Mary 242 Espace Montmartre Salvador Dalí Devonshire, 4th Earl of 83
Krakow 667, 707, 709, 716–19 (Paris) 166 Dialing codes, international 22
airport 721 Dalibor Tower (Prague) 675 Diamonds 232, 233, 258, 259
hotels 722 Dam Square (Amsterdam) 11 Diana, Princess of Wales 59, 62, 66
restaurants 723 Dance Diane de Poitiers 178, 179
tourist office 721 Belgium and Luxembourg 232, 233 Diderot, Denis 160
Crafts flamenco (Spain) 321, 328–9 Dientzenhofer, Christoph 678
Greece 482 Germany 544, 545 Dientzenhofer, Kilian Ignaz 678, 682
Ireland 136, 137 Great Britain 102, 103 Dijon 143
Italy 434 Greece 482, 483 hotels 207
Spain 327 Ireland 136–7 restaurants 210
see also Shopping Portugal 360, 361 street-by-street 184–5
Cranach, Lucas the Elder Dansk Jødisk Museum (Copenhagen) Dijver, River 226
Alte Pinakothek (Munich) 523 643 Dimitsána 469
Domkirche St. Jakob (Innsbruck) Dante 370, 371, 387, 396, 425 hotels 485
569 Danton, Georges Jacques 161 Dingle 111, 129
Germanisches Nationalmuseum Danube, River 553, 567 hotels 138
(Nuremberg) 517 Dardel, Nils 608 restaurants 139
Musée du Louvre (Paris) 160 Darnley, Lord 89, 94 Dinis, King of Portugal 351, 354
Museo del Prado (Madrid) 280 Dartmoor National Park 76 Diocletian, Emperor 417
Museu Nacional de Arte Antiga Daumier, Honoré 162 Dion, Ancient 465
(Lisbon) 345 David (Donatello) 400 Disabled visitors
Museum der Bildenden Künste 515 David (Michelangelo) 394, 397, 401 Austria 570
Schloss Eggenberg 566 David, Gerard 93 Czech Republic 686
Cranmer, Archbishop 80 David, Jacques-Louis 221, 640 France 198, 199
Crete 367, 476–7 The Oath of the Horatii 38 Germany 539
hotels 486 Davos 585, 588 Great Britain 97
restaurants 489 hotels 594 Greece 479
Crime see Personal security De Gaulle, Charles 146, 147, 154 Hungary 702, 703
Cromwell, Oliver 131 De Sica, Vittorio 371 Italy 431
Crosses, Ireland’s High Crosses Deane, Sir Thomas 119 Poland 720, 721
126 Dean’s Yard (London) 52 Portugal 358
Crown Jewels (London) 68 The Death of the Virgin Mary (Crabeth) Spain 323
Cruises, Greece 483 242 Discos, Italy 436, 437
Cryptoporticus (Rome) 385 Deerfield (Dublin) 123 Discounts
Csontváry, Tivadar Kosztka 696, 701 Defenestration of Prague (1618) 675, air travel 24
Cubero, José 282 676 money-saving cards 20
Cuchulainn 122 La Défense (Paris) 167 rail passes 26
Cupar, restaurants 109 Degas, Edgar 88, 162, 515, 625 Disneyland Paris 170
Curia (Rome) 384 Woman Combing her Hair 33 Distance charts 19
Curie, Pierre and Marie 157 Delacroix, Eugène 162, 165 France 149
724-757_EW_Europe.indd 732 14/07/16 10:21 am

GENER AL INDEX  733


Distance charts (cont.) Dürer, Albrecht (cont.) Eloúnda 477
Germany 499 Four Apostles 523 hotels 486
Great Britain 49 Gemäldegalerie Alte Meister restaurants 489
Italy 373 (Dresden) 514 Embassies see Practical information
Spain 271 Germanisches Nationalmuseum Emergency services
Djurgården (Stockholm) 16 (Nuremberg) 517 Austria 571
Dobson, William 56 Kunsthistorisches Museum (Vienna) Belgium and Luxembourg 230, 231
Doctors see Medical care and 562 Czech Republic 687
health issues Museu Nacional de Arte Antiga Denmark 646, 647
Dodecanese 474–5 (Lisbon) 345 Finland 660, 661
hotels 486 Museum of Fine Arts (Budapest) 699 France 198–9
restaurants 489 Palazzo Rosso (Genoa) 408 Germany 538–9
Doge’s Palace (Venice) 17, 418–19 Sternberg Palace (Prague) 677 Great Britain 97
Dolomites 576 Wallfar-Richartz-Museum (Cologne) Greece 478, 479
Dom see Cathedrals 533 Hungary 703
Domaine Brocard 187 Weimar Schloss 515 Ireland 134, 135
Domäne Dahlem (Berlin) 510 Durham 85 Italy 430–31
Domènech i Montaner, Lluis 301 Dürnstein 567 Netherlands 256, 257
Dominic, St. 424 Dutch Revolt 237, 238, 255 Norway 630, 631
Domitian, Emperor 382 Düttmann, Werner 510 Poland 721
Domus Augustana (Rome) 385 Duty-free goods 20–21 Portugal 358, 359
Domus Flavia (Rome) 385 Dvořák, Antonín 670 Spain 322–3
Doñana National Park 315 The Dying Galatian (anon.) 35 Sweden 615
Donatello 65, 402, 420 E Switzerland 590, 591
Baptistery (Siena) 390 Emmental Valley 582
David 400 Earthquake, Lisbon (1755) 345 Emponas 475
Duomo (Siena) 392 Easter Rising (1916) 119, 122 Emsworth, restaurants 108
Museo Nazionale di San Matteo Echternach 229 Engel, Carl Ludwig 655, 656
(Pisa) 393 Ecstasy of St. Francis (Giotto) 388 England 50–76, 78–87
Palazzo Vecchio (Florence) 401 Eden Project (St. Austell) 47, 76 hotels 104–6
Piazza della Signoria (Florence) 401 Edinburgh 43, 90–94 maps 42–3, 48–9
San Lorenzo (Florence) 396 climate 96 restaurants 107–9
Donner, Georg Raphael 565 hotels 106 Englischer Garten (Munich) 524–5
Downing Street (London) 52 map 90–91 Enlightenment 38, 146
Dragon’s Lair (Krakow) 717 restaurants 109 Ensor, James 221
Dresden 514–15 Edinburgh Castle 91, 92 Ensor, John 118
hotels 546 Edinburgh Festival 102, 103 Entertainment
restaurants 549 Edward I, King of England 68, 77 Austria 572–3
Driving 27 Edward III, King of England 74 Belgium and Luxembourg 232–3
see also Road travel Edward IV, King of England 68, 69 France 204–5
Drottningholm 609 Edward the Confessor, King of Germany 544–5
Drovetti, Bernardo 409 England 52, 68 Great Britain 102–3
Du Barry, Madame 161 Effner, Joseph 525 Greece 482–3
Duarte, King of Portugal 351 Eger 701 Ireland 136–7
Dublin 10, 42, 114–23 hotels 704 Italy 436–7
climate 134 restaurants 705 Netherlands 258–9
hotels 138 Eggenberg, Johann Ulrich von 566 Portugal 360–61
map 114–15 Eglise see Churches Spain 328–9
restaurants 139 Egmont, Count 221 Switzerland 592–3
Southeast Dublin street-by-street Eiermann, Egon 508 Epernay 172
116–17 Eiffel, Gustave 163, 355 Ephesos Museum (Vienna) 560
Two Days in Dublin 13 Eiffel Tower (Paris) 15, 163 Epidaurus 467, 482
Dublin Castle 13, 120–21 Eiger 583 Erice, hotels 440
Dublin City Gallery, The Hugh Lane Eisenhower, Dwight D. 172 Erichsen, Edvard 642
123 Eisenman, Peter 503 Erik, St. 610
Dublin Writers Museum 123 Eisenstadt 566 Erik V, King of Denmark 636
Dublinia and the Viking World 13, Elciego, hotels 331 Erik XIV, King of Sweden 606
121 Eleanor of Aquitaine 177 Erkel, Ferenc 698
Duccio, Agostino di 389, 392, 406 Eleonora of Toledo 401, 406 Ernst, Max 645
Duchêne, Achille 82 Elevador de Santa Justa (Lisbon) Eros (Gilbert) 58
Duddon Valley 85 345 El Escorial 284
Dudley, Sir Robert 401 Elgin, Lord 61 Este, Borso d’ 424
Dufy, Raoul 191, 197 Elgin Marbles 455, 456 Este, Nicolò III d’ 424
The Duke and Duchess of Urbino (Piero Eliá (Mýkonos) 472 d’Este family 424
della Francesca) 405, 406 Eliot, T.S. 55 Estepona 311
Duncan I, King of Scotland 46 Elisabeth, Empress of Austria 471, Esterházy, Prince Paul 566
Duncan, David Douglas 586 560, 565 Esterházy family 566, 699
Duncan, Isadora 167 Elizabeth I, Queen of England 46, 56, Estoril 350
Dundee, restaurants 109 66, 118 Esztergom 700
Duomo see Cathedrals Elizabeth II, Queen of England 47 ETA 269
Duquesnoy, Jérôme the Elder 218 Buckingham Palace (London) 56 Etiquette
Dürer, Albrecht 280, 406, 503 coronation 54 Austria 570
Albertina (Vienna) 563 Holyroodhouse (Edinburgh) 94 Greece 479
Albrecht-Dürer-Haus (Nuremberg) Windsor Castle 74 Italy 431
517 Elizabeth, Czarina 659 Portugal 358
724-757_EW_Europe.indd 733 14/07/16 10:21 am

734  GENER AL INDEX


Etiquette (cont.) Festivals (cont.) Foster, Sir Norman 39, 61, 502
Spain 323 Switzerland 593 Fountains
Etna, Mount 429 Filarete, Antonio 377 Fontana della Barcaccia (Rome) 375
Etruscans 34, 370, 380, 386 Film see Cinema Fontana dei Quattro Fiumi (Rome)
Eugene IV, Pope 397 Filóti 473 382
Eugene of Savoy, Prince 559, 564–5, Finbarr, St. 128 Fonte Gaia (Siena) 391
696 Findhorn, restaurants 109 Trevi Fountain (Rome) 16, 386
Eulalia, St. 299 Finland 650–63 Fouquet, Nicolas 170
Euro, currency 23 Helsinki 654–7 Four Apostles (Dürer) 523
Euromast (Rotterdam) 255 history 651–2 Four Courts (Dublin) 122
European Parliament Quarter hotels 662 Fragonard, Jean Honoré 160
(Brussels) 213, 222 language and culture 652 Frammuseet (Oslo) 626
European Union 39 map 653 Frampton, George 62
Brussels 222 practical information 660–61 France 140–211
Eurostar 26 restaurants 663 Burgundy and the French Alps
Eurotunnel 26 travel 660–61 182–5
Evans, Sir Arthur 476 Finlandia Hall (Helsinki) 656 climate 198
Everdingen, Cesar van 252 Finn MacCool 132 distance chart 149
Évora 356 Firá 473 entertainment 204–5
Exeter 76 Fire services see Emergency services food and drink 186–7, 195
Expulsion of Heliodorus from the Fischer, Heinz 555 history 145–6
Temple (Raphael) 378 Fischer von Erlach, Johann Bernhard hotels 206–8
563, 565, 569
F Fischer von Erlach, Josef Emanuel 560 landscape 30
language and culture 147
Fabriano, Gentile da 393 Fiskárdo 471 Loire Valley 176–9
Fabricius, Philipp 675 Fitzherbert, Mrs. 72 maps 142–3, 148–9
Fado (Portugal) 338, 361 Fjords, Norway 619, 628–9 Northern France 172–5
Fainsilber, Adrien 166–7 Flamenco 321, 328–9 Paris 15, 150–71
Fairs, Germany 545 Flanders, Counts of 224–5 politics and society 146–7
Falun 611 Flaubert, Gustave 173 practical information 198–9
Farnese, Cardinal Alessandro 385 Flemish 213, 214 restaurants 209–11
Farnese, Isabel 284 Flight into Egypt (Tintoretto) 420 shopping 202–3
Farnese family 381 Florence 364–5, 366, 394–407 South of France 143, 190–97
Faro (Portugal) 356–7 hotels 438 Southwest France 142, 188–9
Fårö (Sweden) 611 map 394–5 travel 200–201
The Feast in the House of Levi restaurants 441 Franchini, Gianfranco 39
(Veronese) 423 Florentine Renaissance 402–3 Francini brothers 124
Feira da Ladra (Lisbon) 343 Florentino, Nicolás 285 Francis, Pope 370
Felipe II, King of Spain see Philip II Floris V, Count of Holland 252, 254 Francis, St. 388–9
Felipe III, King of Spain 274 Flowers Franco, General Francisco 268, 289
Felipe IV, King of Spain 274, 281 Alps 584 François I, King of France 37, 146
Felipe V, King of Spain 274, 275, 285 Bulbfields of the Netherlands 253 Blois 177
Felipe VI, King of Spain 268 Fly-drive 25 Château de Chambord 179
Fellini, Federico 371 Foch, Marshal 163 Château de Fontainebleau 171
Ferdinand I, Emperor 670, 677 Folguera, Françesc 306 Les Invalides (Paris) 162
Ferdinand II, Emperor 676, 679 Fontainebleau, Château de 171 Musée du Louvre (Paris) 158
Ferdinand, Archduke 675 Fontevraud, Abbaye de 177 François II, King of France 176
Ferdinand, King Consort of Portugal Food and drink Frank, Anne, Anne Frank House
350 Austria 572, 573 (Amsterdam) 11, 245
Fernando I, King of Spain 282 Great Britain 100–101 Frank, Otto 245
Fernando II, King of Aragón 268 Greece 482 Frankfurt am Main 532
Fernando III, King of Spain 290 Italy 434–5 hotels 548
Fernando VI, King of Spain 274 Portugal 360 restaurants 551
Fernsehturm (Berlin) 493, 505 shops see Shopping shopping 543
Ferrara 424 South of France 195 tourist office 539
hotels 440 Spain 326–7 Franz Joseph I, Emperor of Austria
Ferries 27 Switzerland 592 692
Belgium and Luxembourg 231 tapas 315 Hofburg (Vienna) 559, 560
Denmark 646–7 see also Beer; Restaurants; Whisky/ Schönbrunn Palace (Vienna) 565
Finland 661 whiskey; Wine Frari (Venice) see Santa Maria Gloriosa
France 200, 201 Forment, Damià 295 dei Frari
Great Britain 99 Formentera 308, 309 Frauenkirche (Dresden) 494
Greece 481 hotels 332 Frauenkirche (Munich) 14, 522
Ireland 135 restaurants 335 Frauentor (Nuremberg) 517
Italy 433 Forseth, Einar 607 Frederick I, King of Bohemia 676
Netherlands 257 Forsthaus Paulsborn (Berlin) 510 Frederick I Barbarossa, Emperor 36,
Norway 631 Fort Augustus, hotels 106 535
St. Petersburg 659 Fort William, restaurants 109 Frederick II, Emperor 429
Spain 325 Fortezza Medicea (Siena) 392 Frederick II the Great, King of Prussia
Sweden 614–15 Fortnum and Mason (London) 59, 37, 496
Festivals 100, 101 Park Sanssouci (Potsdam) 512–13
Austria 573 Fortuna, hotels 331 Schloss Charlottenburg (Berlin) 509
Germany 545 Forum, Roman (Rome) 16, 368, 374, Schloss Sanssouci (Potsdam) 511
Ireland 137 384 Frederik II, King of Denmark 644
Italy 436–7 Forum of Trajan (Rome) 384 Frederik V, King of Denmark 642
724-757_EW_Europe.indd 734 14/07/16 10:21 am

GENER AL INDEX  735


Frederik VI, King of Denmark 636 Geirangerfjord 621 La Giralda (Seville) 271, 318, 320
Frederik VII, King of Denmark 636, 641 Gellért, St. 697, 698 Girard, Dominique 564
Frederiksborg Slot 644 Gellért Hotel and Bath Complex Girl Reading a Letter (Vermeer) 514
Freiburg im Breisgau 528 (Budapest) 697 Girona, restaurants 334
hotels 547 Gellért Monument (Budapest) 691 Giulio Romano 412
restaurants 550 Gemäldegalerie (Berlin) 12, 503 Gladstone’s Land (Edinburgh) 92, 93
French Revolution 38, 146, 153 General Post Office (Dublin) 122 Glasgow 88
Freud, Sigmund 555 Geneva 580 hotels 106
Freud Museum (Vienna) 562–3 hotels 594 restaurants 109
Friedrich I, King of Prussia 507 restaurants 595 Glassware
Friedrich II, King of Prussia see Geneva, Lake 580–81 Germany 543
Frederick II the Great hotels 594 see also Shopping
Friedrich III, Emperor 561, 567 restaurants 595 Glendalough 125, 126–7
Friedrich, Caspar David 515 Geneviève, St. 157 Globe Theatre (London) 67
Friedrich, Woldemar 507 Gennaro, San 426 Glyptothek (Munich) 14, 523
Friedrich Wilhelm I, King of Prussia Genoa 408 Goethe, Johann Wolfgang von 496,
511 hotels 439 497, 503
Friedrich Wilhelm IV, King of Prussia restaurants 442 Goethe Museum (Weimar) 515
531 Genre painting 249 Goethehaus (Frankfurt) 532
Frink, Elisabeth 73 George II, King of Great Britain 52, 71 Golden Bend (Amsterdam) 246
Froment, Nicolas 194 George III, King of Great Britain 56 Golden Lane (Prague) 675, 676–7
Frueauf, Rueland the Elder 565 George IV, King of Great Britain 56, 72, Goldsmith, Oliver 118
Fuengirola 311 74, 75, 120 Golf
Fuente Dé, hotels 331 George V, King of Great Britain 74 Portugal 361
Fundació Joan Miró (Barcelona) 12, Georgian House (Edinburgh) 92 Scotland 89
304 Géricault, Théodore 166 see also Sports and outdoor
Furtwangen 528 Germany 494–551 activities
Futuroscope (Poitiers) 176 Baden-Württemberg 528–9 Gonçalves, Nuno 345
G Bavaria 516–27 Gondolas 421, 432
Berlin 12–13, 500–513
Gonzaga family 412
Gabriel, Jacques-Ange 161 climate 538 González, Aníbal 321
Gaddi, Taddeo 400, 407 culture and arts 497 González, Felipe 268
Gaelic language 112 distance chart 499 Good Friday Agreement 111, 112, 134
Gainsborough, Thomas 56, 78, 93, Eastern Germany 514–15 Good Shepherd (anon.) 33
160 entertainment 544–5 Gornergrat 583
Museu Calouste Gulbenkian history 495–7 Gornostayev, A.M. 655
(Lisbon) 345 hotels 546–8 Gort, Lord 130
Galerius, Emperor 464 maps 492–3, 498–9 Górtys (Crete) 477
Galileo 393, 400 Munich 14–15, 518–25 Górtys, Ancient (Loúsios Gorge) 469
Museo di Storia della Scienza Northern Germany 536–7 Göteborgsutkiken (Gothenburg)
(Florence) 401 practical information 538–9 612
Gallego, Fernando 280 restaurants 549–51 Gothenburg 603, 612
Gallen-Kallela, Akseli 656 Rhine and Mosel Valleys 530–35 hotels 616
Galleria dell’Accademia (Florence) shopping 542–3 restaurants 617
396–7 travel 540–41 Gotland 611
Galleria Doria Pamphilj (Rome) 382–3 Gesù (Rome) 383 Goujon, Jean 158
Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II (Milan) Ghent 224–5 Government House (Rhodes) 474
410 hotels 234 Goya, Francisco 38
Galleries see Museums and galleries restaurants 235 The Clothed Maja 279
Galway 131 Ghiberti, Lorenzo 390, 399 Musée du Louvre (Paris) 160
restaurants 139 Ghirlandaio 345, 380, 396 Museo de Bellas Artes (Santander)
Gamla Stan (Stockholm) 16 Giambologna 397, 400, 401, 407 293
Gandhi, Mahatma 61 Giambono 423 Museo de Bellas Artes (Valencia)
Gandon, James 122 Gian Nicola di Paolo 389 308
Gandria 589 Giant’s Causeway 132–3 Museo del Prado (Madrid) 280
Garda, Lake 411 Gibbons, Grinling 66, 71, 82 Museo Thyssen-Bornemisza
hotels 439 Gibbs, James 58 (Madrid) 281
The Garden of Delights (Bosch) 278 Gifts see Shopping The Naked Maja 279
Gardens see Parks and gardens Gilbert, Alfred, Eros 58 Palacio Real (Madrid) 275
Gardone 411 Gilbert of Hastings, Bishop of Lisbon Saturn Devouring His Son 32
Garibaldi, Giuseppe 370 343 statue of 265
Gate Theatre (Dublin) 13, 123, 136, Gilles or Pierrot (Watteau) 32 Gozzoli, Benozzo 393
137 Giordano, Luca 280 The Procession of the Magi 402–3
Gaudí, Antoni 38 Giorgione 88, 423 Grachtengordel (Amsterdam) 11,
Casa Batlló (Barcelona) 12, 301 Giotto 36, 413 246
Casa Milà “La Pedrera” (Barcelona) Basilica di San Francesco (Assisi) 388 Het Grachtenhuis (Amsterdam) 11,
12, 301 Campanile (Florence) 398 246
Casa-Museu Gaudí (Barcelona) 305 Ecstasy of St. Francis 388 Grafton Street (Dublin) 13, 116, 119
Palau Güell (Barcelona) 300 National Gallery (London) 57 Graimberg, Count Charles de 529
Palma Cathedral 309 The Ognissanti Madonna 404, 406 Gran, Daniel 565
Parc Güell (Barcelona) 305 St. Francis Appears to the Monks at Gran Teatre del Liceu (Barcelona) 300,
Sagrada Família (Barcelona) 12, 265, Arles 36 328, 329
302–3 Santa Croce (Florence) 400 Gran Vía (Madrid) 14, 275
Gauguin, Paul 251, 625, 640 Uffizi (Florence) 406 Granada 265, 310, 312–13
Gehry, Frank 39, 294 Vatican Museums (Rome) 380 hotels 332
724-757_EW_Europe.indd 735 14/07/16 10:21 am

736  GENER AL INDEX


Granada (cont.) Greenwich 70 Hallstatt 568
restaurants 334 Gregory I the Great, Pope 381 hotels 574
Grand Canal (Venice) 17, 421 Gregory VII, Pope 496 Hallstätter See 568
Grand Casino (Monaco) 197 Grenoble 183 Hals, Frans
Grand Palais (Paris) 165 hotels 207 Frans Hals Museum (Haarlem) 252–3
Grand Place (Brussels) 212, 217, 218 restaurants 211 Musée Royaux des Beaux-Arts
Grand Theater (Warsaw) 713 Greyfriars Kirk (Edinburgh) 93 (Brussels) 221
Grand Trianon (Versailles) 169 Grieg, Edvard 620, 628 Rijksmuseum (Amsterdam) 250
La Grande Arche (Paris) 167 Grimaldi family 197 Wedding Portrait 32
Granet, François 194 Grimm, Wilhelm and Jakob 532 Halspach, Jörg von 522
La Granja (Mallorca) 309 Grindelwald 583 Ham House (London) 71
Grant, Hugh 70 hotels 594 Hamburg 537
Grasmere 85 Groeninge Museum (Bruges) 228 hotels 548
Grasser, Erasmus 522 Grunewald (Berlin) 510 restaurants 551
Graubünden 575, 577 Grünewald, Matthias 523 shopping 543
hotels 594 Gruuthuse Museum (Bruges) 228 travel 541
restaurants 595 Gruyères 581 Hameau Deboeuf 187
Graz 566 Gstaad, restaurants 595 Hamilton, James 88
hotels 574 Gualdo, Matteo da 389 Hammurabi, King 160
restaurants 575 Guardamar del Segura 309 Hampton Court 71
Great Britain 44–109 Guardi, Francesco 345 Hanau 532
culture and the arts 47 Guarini, Guarino 409 Handel, George Frideric 252
England 50–76, 78–87 Gucci, Santi 717 Hankar, Paul 221
entertainment 102–3 Güell, Count Eusebi 305 Hanover 536
history 45–6 Guercino 383 hotels 548
hotels 104–6 Guernica (Picasso) 39 restaurants 551
landscape 30 Guggenheim, Peggy 422 Hanuš 682
London 13, 50–71 Guildhall (York) 86 Harald Bluetooth, King of Denmark
maps 42–3, 48–9 Guincho 350 636, 644
Northern Ireland 132–3 Guinness, Arthur 123 Harald the Fairhaired, King of Norway
practical information 96–7 Guinness, Sir Benjamin 121 619
restaurants 107–9 Guinness Storehouse (Dublin) 13, 123 Harald Hardråda, King of Norway 619,
Scotland 88–95 Guise, Duc de 177 622
shopping 100–101 Gulbenkian, Calouste 345 Hardangerfjord 628
society and politics 46–7 Gustav II Adolf, King of Sweden 601, Hardouin-Mansart, Jules 162, 168,
travel 98–9 602, 606, 608 169
Wales 77 Gustav III, King of Sweden 602, 606, Hardwick Hall 83
SS Great Britain (Bristol) 76 610 Harland, Sir Edward 132
Great Exhibition (1851) 63 Gustav III’s Museum of Antiquities Hårleman, Carl 606
Great Hall (Winchester) 72–3 (Stockholm) 606 Harrods (London) 100, 101
Great Milton, hotels 105 Gustav VI Adolf, King of Sweden 606 Harvard, John 81
El Greco 160, 294, 677, 699 Gustav Vasa, King of Sweden 601, Hasenauer, Karl von 561
The Adoration of the Shepherds 280 602, 609, 610 Hathaway, Anne 81
Alte Pinakothek (Munich) 523 Gutach 528 Haussmann, Baron Georges 38, 164,
The Assumption 288 Gutenberg, Johannes 531 167
Casa-Museo de El Greco (Toledo) Gypsies, flamenco 321 Hawksmoor, Nicholas 82, 83
288 Gýtheio 468 Haydn, Joseph 555, 560, 566, 573
Iglesia de Santo Tomé (Toledo) 286, hotels 485 Hazelius, Artur 609
288 restaurants 488 H.C. Andersens Barndomshjem
Museo de Santa Cruz (Toledo) 288 (Odense) 645
Museu Nacional d’Art de Catalunya H Health see Medical care and health
(Barcelona) 305 Haakon IV, King of Norway 619, 620 issues
Statens Museum for Kunst Haarlem 252–3 Hedvig Eleonora, Queen of Sweden
(Copenhagen) 643 hotels 260 609
Greece 444–89 restaurants 261 Heidelberg 529
Athens 11, 450–57 Habsburg dynasty 496 hotels 547
Central Greece 460–63 Bohemia 670 restaurants 550
Corfu and the Ionian Islands 470–71 Budapest 696 Heilig Bloed Basiliek (Bruges) 228
Crete 476–7 Hofburg (Vienna) 558 Heilig-Geist-Spital (Nuremberg) 517
Cyclades 472–3 Hungary 692 Heinrich II, Count Palatine 531
entertainment 482–3 Low Countries 213–14, 237 Heinrich IV, Emperor 496
history 34–5, 445–6 Switzerland 578 Helsingør 644
hotels 484–6 tombs of 560, 561 Helsinki 599, 651, 654–7
landscape 31 Hadrian, Emperor 160, 384, 469 airport 660, 661
maps 367, 448–9 Castel Sant’ Angelo (Rome) 381 climate 661
Northern Greece 464–5 Pantheon (Rome) 382 hotels 662
Peloponnese 466–9 Temple of Olympian Zeus (Athens) map 654–5
practical information 478–9 457 restaurants 663
religion, language and culture 446–7 The Hague 254 travel 661
restaurants 487–9 hotels 260 Helsinki Cathedral 656
Rhodes and the Dodecanese 474–5 restaurants 261 Hemony, François 244
shopping 482, 483 Hague School 250 Henri II, King of France
Temple Architecture 458–9 Haider, Jörg 554, 555 Basilique de St-Denis (Paris) 170
travel 480–81 al Hakam II, Caliph 316 Château de Chambord 179
Greek Theater (Syracuse) 429 Halifax, hotels 106 Château de Chenonceau 178
724-757_EW_Europe.indd 736 14/07/16 10:21 am

GENER AL INDEX  737


Henri II, King of France (cont.) Hollande, François 147 Hungary (cont.)
Château de Fontainebleau 171 Holländisches Viertel (Potsdam) 511 history 691–3
Musée du Louvre (Paris) 158 Het Hollands Kaasmuseum (Alkmaar) hotels 704
Henri III, King of France 177 252 landscape 31
assassination 178 Hollandse Schouwburg (Amsterdam) language and culture 692–3
Henri IV, King of France 247 map 692–3
Château de Fontainebleau 171 Holocaust Denkmal (Berlin) 12, 503 practical information 702–3
Nantes 176 The Holy Family (Michelangelo) 405, 406 restaurants 705
Place des Vosges (Paris) 153 Holy Roman Empire 554 travel 703
skull 146, 170 Holyroodhouse, Palace of Hunters in the Snow (Brueghel) 562
Tours 177 (Edinburgh) 94 Hus, Jan 670, 679, 682
Henrietta-Adelaide, Electress of Homem, Lopo 401 Hussites 670
Bavaria 525 Honthorst, Gerard van 249 Huts of Romulus (Rome) 385
Henry I, Duke of Brabant 220 Hoorn, Count 221 Huysum, Jan van 250
Henry II, King of England 112 Horse Guards Parade (London) 13, 53 Hyde, Douglas 121
Abbaye de Fontevraud 177 Horta, Victor 220, 221 Hyde Park (London) 62
Poitiers 176 Musée Horta (Brussels) 223 Hydrofoils (Greece) 481
Windsor Castle 74 Hortus Botanicus Amsterdam 247
Henry III, King of England 55 Hospital de los Venerables (Seville) I
Henry VI, King of England 81, 86 319, 320 Iberian Peninsula 262–363
Henry VII, King of England 55, 71 Hospitals see Medical care map 264–5
Henry VIII, King of England 46, 112 Hostal de los Reyes Católicos see also Portugal; Spain
Hampton Court 71 (Santiago de Compostela) 292 Ibiza 308, 309
Hyde Park (London) 62 Hostal de San Marcos (León) 289 hotels 332
St. James’s Palace 59 Hostentor (Lübeck) 537 restaurants 335
St. James’s Park (London) 56 Hôtel des Invalides (Paris) 162 Ibsen, Henrik 620, 624, 626
Tower of London 68 Hotel Ritz (Madrid) 14, 277 Iglesia see Churches
Henry the Navigator, Prince 338, 345 Hôtel de Ville (Arles) 192 Ignatius Loyola, St. 383
Monument to the Discoveries Hôtel de Ville (Brussels) 218, 219 Iktinos 456
(Lisbon) 346–7 Hôtel de Voguë (Dijon) 184 Ile de la Cité (Paris) 15, 152
tomb of 351 Hôtel-Dieu (Beaune) 182 Ile St-Louis (Paris) 15
Hepworth, Barbara 47, 76 Hotels Immigration see Practical information
Herculaneum 426 Austria 574 Imperial College (London) 63
Herculano, Alexandre 348 Belgium and Luxembourg 234 Ingres, Jean 162, 165
Hergé 220 Czech Republic 688 Inishmore 131
The Hermitage (St. Petersburg) 33, 658 Denmark 648 Inner City Parish Church (Budapest)
Hermitage Amsterdam 247 Finland 662 698
Hernán Ruiz family 317 France 206–8 Innocent VIII, Pope 378
Herodes Atticus 466 Germany 546–8 Innocent X, Pope 382, 383
Herrera, Juan de 284 Great Britain 104–6 Innsbruck 569
Herzogin-Anna-Amalia Bibliothek Greece 484–6 hotels 574
(Weimar) 515 Hungary 704 restaurants 575
Het Loo see Paleis Het Loo Ireland 138 Insurance 21
Heurige, Austria 573 Italy 438–40 Interlaken 583
Hever, hotels 104 Netherlands 260 hotels 594
Hévíz 700 Norway 632 restaurants 595
Heyerdahl, Thor 626 Poland 722 International Red Cross 579, 580
High Crosses (Ireland) 126 Portugal 362 Internet
Highlands (Scotland) 42, 95 St. Petersburg 662 booking air tickets 25
Hildebrandt, Johann Lukas von 564 Spain 330–32 Internet cafés 22
Hilliard, Nicholas 56 Sweden 616 Inurria, Mateo 314
Hilmer, Heinz 503 Switzerland 594 Les Invalides (Paris) 15, 162–3
Hirst, Damein 253 Houdon, Jean-Antoine 160 Inverness 95
Historiska museet (Stockholm) 609 Houishbrouwerij de Halve Maan Ionian Islands 470–71
History 34–9 (Bruges) 228 hotels 485
see also countries by name House at the Stone Bell (Prague) 682 restaurants 488
Hitler, Adolf 39, 214, 496, 497, 554 House of Augustus (Rome) 385 Irákleio 476
Hittorf, Jacques 165 House of Livia (Rome) 385 hotels 486
Hjemmefrontmuseet (Oslo) 623 House of Terror Museum (Budapest) restaurants 489
Hockney, David 47, 57 699 Ireland 110–39
Hodler, Ferdinand 503 House of the Vestal Virgins (Rome) climate 134
Hofburg (Vienna) 17, 556, 558–60 384 Dublin 13, 114–23
Hoffmann, Ludwig 504 Household goods see Shopping Early Celtic Christianity 126–7
Hofjagd und Rüstkammer (Vienna) 560 Houses of Parliament (London) 53 entertainment 136–7
Hogarth, William 56 Howard, Catherine 68 history 111–12
Höger, Fritz 537 Hugo, Victor 153, 157 hotels 138
Hohenzollern family 506, 511 Huguet, Jaume 299 language and culture 112
Höijer, Theodor 656 Humboldt-Box (Berlin) 504 maps 42, 113
Holbein, Hans 160, 503, 532 Humboldt Universität (Berlin) 502 Northern Ireland 132–3
Museu Nacional de Arte Antiga Hungarian National Gallery practical information 134–5
(Lisbon) 345 (Budapest) 696 restaurants 139
Museum of Fine Arts (Budapest) 699 Hungarian National Museum shopping 136, 137
Holge Danske 644 (Budapest) 698 Southeast Ireland 124–5
Holl, Steven 656 Hungary 690–705 Southwest Ireland 128–31
Holland see Netherlands Budapest 694–9 travel 134–5
724-757_EW_Europe.indd 737 14/07/16 10:21 am

738  GENER AL INDEX


Irish Film Institute 120 Jazz see Entertainment Jura mountains 577
Irving, Washington 312 Jelinek, Elfriede 555 Justinian, Emperor 425
Isabel I, Queen of Castile 268, 320 Jensen, Georg 636
Isabel II, Queen of Spain 282 Jerez de la Frontera 315 K
Isabel, Santa 354 Jet d’Eau (Geneva) 580 Kafka, Franz 670, 677
Isabella Czartoryska, Princess 719 Jewelry Kaiser-Wilhelm-Gedächtniskirche
Ischia 426 Crown Jewels (London) 68 (Berlin) 12, 13, 499, 508
Isidore, St. 274 see also Shopping Kalafátis (Mýkonos) 472
Isla Mágica (Seville) 321 The Jewish Bride (Rembrandt) 250 Kallikrates 456
Isle of Coll, hotels 106 Jewish sights Kamári (Kos) 475
Isle of Mull, hotels 106 Anne Frank House (Amsterdam) 11, Kamári (Santoríni) 473
Isle of Skye 49, 95 245 Kámeiros, Ancient 475
Ismail I, Caliph 312 Auschwitz (Oşwięcim) 719 Kant, Immanuel 497
István I, King of Hungary 693, 698 Centrum Judaicum & Neue Karamanlís, Costas 447
István, St. 698–9, 700 Synagoge (Berlin) 505 Karamanlís, Konstantínos 447
Ital Reding Hofstatt (Schwyz) 586 Cimitério dos Judeus (Faro) 357 Kardámaina 475
Italy 364–443 Dansk Jødisk Museum Kardamýli 468
Byzantine Italy 425 (Copenhagen) 643 hotels 485
distance chart 373 Hollandse Schouwburg Karl VI, Emperor of Austria 563
entertainment 436–7 (Amsterdam) 247 Karl XI, King of Sweden 606
Florence 394–407 Jewish Museum (Eisenstadt) 566 Karl XII, King of Sweden 601, 602, 607
history 369–70 Jewish Museum (Prague) 681 Karl Johan, King of Norway 624
hotels 438–40 Joods Historisch Museum Karl Theodor, Elector of Bavaria 524
language and culture 371 (Amsterdam) 240, 243 Karlsbad 684–5
maps 366–7, 372–3 Jüdisches Museum (Berlin) 508 hotels 688
practical information 430–31 Judisches Zentrum (Munich) 522 restaurants 689
restaurants 441–3 Monument to the Ghetto Heroes Karlskirche (Vienna) 563
Rome 16, 374–87 (Warsaw) 714 Karlstein Castle 668, 684
shopping 434–5 Museo Sefardi (Toledo) 288 Kárpathos 475
Sicily 428–9 Old Jewish Cemetery (Prague) 15, restaurants 489
travel 432–3 681 Karýtaina 469
Venice 17, 414–23 Old-New Synagogue (Prague) 15, Kassandros, King 464
Ithaca 471 680–81 Kassiópi 470–71
Itineraries 10–17 Old Synagogue (Krakow) 719 Kastráki 473
Great Cities of Europe 10 Pinkas Synagogue (Prague) 15, 681 hotels 485
Two Days in Amsterdam 11 Prague’s Jewish Quarter 15, 681 restaurants 488
Two Days in Athens 11 Tokaj synagogue and Jewish Katholikón (Metéora) 463
Two Days in Barcelona 12 cemetery 701 Kavo, Albert 659
Two Days in Berlin 12–13 Joachim II, Elector of Brandenburg Kazimierz the Great, King of Poland
Two Days in Dublin 13 510 717
Two Days in London 13 Joan of Arc 173, 176, 179 Kazimierz the Restorer 716
Two Days in Madrid 14 João I, King of Portugal 338, 351, 352 Keats, John, Keats-Shelley Memorial
Two Days in Munich 14–15 João II, King of Portugal 345 House (Rome) 386
Two Days in Paris 15 João III, King of Portugal 347, 348, 350 Kecskemét, restaurants 705
Two Days in Prague 15–16 João IV, King of Portugal 338, 342 Kefalloniá 445, 471
Two Days in Rome 16 João V, King of Portugal 342, 354 hotels 485
Two Days in Stockholm 16–17 John of Luxemburg, King of Bohemia restaurants 488
Two Days in Venice 17 675, 682 Kelefá Castle 468
Two Days in Vienna 17 Johnson, Ester 121 Kendal 85
Izabela Lubomirska, Princess 715 Jones, Inigo 53, 59 Kesthely, hotels 704
J Joods Historisch Museum Keswick 85
(Amsterdam) 240, 243
Keszthely 700
Jacobsen, Arne 636, 645 Jordaan (Amsterdam) 11, 246 Keukenhof gardens 253
Jacobsen, Carl 640 Jordaens, Jacob 225 Kevin, St. 125
Jagdschloss Grunewald (Berlin) 510 As the Old Sang, the Young Play Pipes Kew (London) 71
Jagdzeugmagazin (Berlin) 510 224 Kiasma, Museum of Contemporary
Jagiellończyk, Kazimierz 717 José I, King of Portugal 344 Art (Helsinki) 656
Jagiellonian dynasty 708, 716, 717 Joselito 283 Kierkegaard, Søren 636
Jahn, Helmut 503 Joseph II, Emperor 558, 564, 681 Kilkenny 125
Jaime II, King of Aragón 299 Joseph of Arimathea 228 hotels 138
James I, King of England (James VI of Josephine, Empress 197 restaurants 139
Scotland) 46, 62, 92 Jospin, Lionel 147 Killarney 42, 129
James II, King of England (James VII of Joyce, James 117 Kincraig Highland Wildlife Park 95
Scotland) 112 Juan Carlos I, King of Spain 268 Kinsale 129
James II, King of Scotland 89 Juan-les-Pins 196 Kinský Palace (Prague) 15, 682
James IV, King of Scotland 94 Juana, Doña 274 Kirchner, Ernst Ludwig 503
James V, King of Scotland 94 Jüdisches Museum (Berlin) 12, 508 Kis-Balaton 700
James, St. 292 Jujol, Josep 305 The Kiss (Rodin) 162
James, Henry 420 Julius II, Pope 403 Kiss, György 699
Jameson Experience, Midleton 128 St. Peter’s (Rome) 376 Kitchen goods see Shopping
Jan III Sobieski, King of Poland 715 Santa Maria del Popolo (Rome) 387 The Kitchen Maid (Vermeer) 248
Jank, Christian 527 Sistine Chapel (Rome) 380 Kitzbühel 554
Jansson, Tove 657 Vatican Museums (Rome) 378, 380 Kjelland, Gabriel 629
Jardin du Luxembourg (Paris) 157 Julius III, Pope 387 Klee, Paul 422, 509, 586
Jardin des Tuileries (Paris) 15, 161 Jungfrau 577, 583 Klee Centre (Bern) 582
724-757_EW_Europe.indd 738 14/07/16 10:21 am

GENER AL INDEX  739


Klenze, Leo von 520, 523, 524 Lane, Sir Hugh 123 Leonardo da Vinci (cont.)
Klimt, Gustav 562, 563, 565, 567, 677 Lang, Fritz 511 Château de Chambord 179
Klosters 588 Langhans, Carl Gotthard 502 Lady with an Ermine 719
hotels 594 Languages Last Supper 411, 532
Knights of St. John 474, 475 Austria 555 Mona Lisa 160
Knights Templars 350 Belgium and Luxembourg 214, 230 National Gallery (London) 57
Knokke-Heist, restaurants 235 Czech Republic 670 Uffizi (Florence) 406
Knossos, Palace of 34, 476 Denmark 636 Vatican Museums (Rome) 380
Knox, John 92, 93 Finland 652, 660 Virgin of the Rocks 37
Koblenz 531 France 147 Leonor, Dona 342
Kodály, Zoltán 697 Greece 446–7 Leopold I, Emperor of Austria 565
Kohlbecker, Christoph 503 Hungary 692 Leopold I, King of the Belgians 214
Kon-Tiki Museum (Oslo) 626 Ireland 112 Leopold II, King of the Belgians 221,
Kongelige Slottet (Oslo) 624 Italy 371, 431 222
Koninklijk Paleis (Amsterdam) 11, 244 Netherlands 238 Leopold III, Duke 566
Konstanz 527 Norway 620 Leuven
Koolhaas, Rem 255 Poland 708 hotels 234
Korisíon Lagoon 471 Portugal 338, 358 restaurants 235
Kos 475 St. Petersburg 659 Lewes
hotels 486 Spain 269, 323 hotels 104
restaurants 489 Sweden 602 restaurants 108
Koşciuszko, Tadeusz 708, 717 Switzerland 579 Libeskind, Daniel 643
Kosta Glassworks 612 Lanyon, Sir Charles 117 Library of Hafiz Ahmet (Rhodes) 474
Kovács, Margit 700 Laocoön 380 Lichtenstein, Roy 532
Kozubowski, Ludwik 713 Au Lapin Agile (Paris) 166 Liebermann, Max 533
KPN Telecom (Rotterdam) 255 Laredo, restaurants 334 Liège, hotels 234
Krems 567 Larsen, Henning 640 The Liffey (Dublin) 122
Kresilas 504 Larsson, Carl 607, 611 Ligorio, Pirro 379
Kreuzberg (Berlin) 508 Larsson, Karin 611 Lille, restaurants 210
Kristina, Queen of Sweden 606, 607 Lascaux 188 Limerick, hotels 138
Krohg, Christian 625 Lássi 471 Lindau 527
Kronborg Slot (Helsingør) 644 Latimer, Bishop 80 Lindholm Høje (Aalborg) 645
Kruishoutem, restaurants 235 Latin Quarter (Paris) 15 Líndos 475
Krumpper, Hans 522 street-by-street 156–7 Linz 567
Kubuswoningen (Rotterdam) 255 Lauderdale family 71 hotels 574
Küchel, Jakob Michael 516 Laurana, Luciano 425 restaurants 575
Kulturforum (Berlin) 12, 503 Lausanne 580 Lion Terrace (Delos) 472
Kungsträdgården (Stockholm) 16, 607 hotels 594 Lippi, Filippino 393, 396
Kunstgewerbemuseum (Berlin) 12, restaurants 595 Lippi, Fra Filippo 406, 408
503 Lawrence of Arabia 66 Lisbon 264, 340–49
Kunsthistorisches Museum (Vienna) Łazienki Park (Warsaw) 715 climate 358
17, 33, 562 Le Blond, Jean Baptiste 659 earthquake of 1755 345
Kurfürstendamm (Berlin) 13, 509 Le Brun, Charles 168, 169, 170–71 entertainment 360–61
Kutná Hora 684 Le Corbusier 529, 581 hotels 362
hotels 688 Le Corte, Giusto 422 map 340–41
restaurants 689 Le Nôtre, André 161, 165, 168, 169, restaurants 363
Kylemore Abbey 131 171 tourist office 359
L Le Vau, Louis 159, 168, 170 Liston (Corfu Town) 470
Leach, Bernard 65
Liszt, Franz 516, 693, 698
La Chaise, Père de 167 Leaning Tower (Pisa) 393 Franz Liszt Museum (Budapest) 697
La Chaux-de-Fonds 581 Leather goods see Shopping Litóchoro 465
La Linea, restaurants 335 Lee, River 128 Little Athens (Paris) 156
La Rochelle, restaurants 211 Leeds, restaurants 109 Little Mermaid (Copenhagen) 642
Lace 232, 233 Lefkáda 471 Liverpool 84
Ladislas, King of Naples 426 Lefkós 475 hotels 106
Ladulås, Magnus 606 Legentil, Alexandre 166 Livia, Empress 385
Lady with an Ermine (Leonardo da Legoland 645 Llanberis 77
Vinci) 719 Legros, Pierre, Triumph of Faith over Llewelyn ap Gruffydd 77
Ładysław of Gielniów, St. 713 Heresy 383 Lobcowicz, Count of 676
Laganás 471 Leicester Square (London) 13, 58 Lobkowicz Palace (Prague) 675
Lagos 357 Leiden 254 Locarno 589
Laguardia, hotels 331 restaurants 261 festivals 589, 593
Laguerre, Louis 83 Leinster House (Dublin) 117 hotels 594
Lake District (Great Britain) 85 Leipzig 515 restaurants 595
hotels 106 hotels 546 Locci, Augustyn 715
restaurants 109 restaurants 549 Loch Garten Nature Reserve 95
Lakes of Killarney 129 Leksand 611 Lochner, Stephan, The Adoration of
Lakhaniá, hotels 486 Lenné, Peter Joseph 511 the Magi 535
Lalique, René 162, 345 Lennox, Lady Louisa 124 Loggia (Irákleio) 476
Laloux, Victor 162 Lentos Kunstmuseum (Linz) 567 Loggia del Capitaniato (Vicenza) 413
Lamb and Flag (London) 59 Leo X, Pope 380, 402, 403 Loggia della Mercanzia (Siena) 391
Landhaus (Linz) 567 León 289 Loire Valley 142, 176–9
Land’s End 76 Leonardo da Vinci 37, 402 hotels 207
Landscapes 30–31 Adoration of the Magi 405 restaurants 210
Landseer, Edwin 58 The Annunciation 33 Lombardi family 421
724-757_EW_Europe.indd 739 14/07/16 10:21 am

740  GENER AL INDEX


London 10, 43, 44, 50–71 Luke, St. 307 Malmö (cont.)
City and Southwark 66–9 Lummelundagrottorna 611 hotels 616
climate 96 Lurago, Anselmo 678 restaurants 617
Further Afield 70–71 Luther, Martin 37, 496, 656 Malyshev, Ignatiy 658
hotels 104 Lutyens, Sir Edwin 53, 75 Manchester 84–5
map 50–51 Luxembourg 229 hotels 106
restaurants 107–8 airport 231 restaurants 109
South Kensington street-by-street see also Belgium and Luxembourg Mánes, Josef 683
63 Luxembourg City 229 Manet, Edouard 162, 191, 345, 515,
tourist office 97 hotels 234 625
travel 98 restaurants 235 Máni Peninsula 468
Two Days in London 13 Lyceum (Eger) 701 Mann, Heinrich 537
West End 58–9 Lykourgos 455 Mann, Thomas 537
Whitehall and Westminster street- Lyme Regis, hotels 105 Manneken Pis (Brussels) 218
by-street 52–3 Lyon 182–3 Mannelli family 407
London Transport Museum 59 hotels 207 Mannerheim, General Carl Gustaf
London Underground 98 restaurants 211 Emil 652
Long, Charles 75 Lysikrates Monument (Athens) 453 Manolete 283, 314
Longhena, Baldassare 422 Mansfield, Isaac 82
La Lonja (Valencia) 308 M Mansion House (Dublin) 116
Lonja (Zaragoza) 308 MacDonald, Flora 94 al Mansur, Caliph 316
Lorca, Federico García 283 MacDonald, Ramsay 94 Mantegna, Andrea 410
Lorelei 531 Macedonian royal family 464 Mantua (Mantova) 412
Lorenzetti, Ambrogio 391, 406 Machiavelli, Niccolò 400, 403 hotels 439
Lorenzetti, Pietro 406 Machuca, Pedro 280 Manuel I, King of Portugal 338
The Deposition 388 Mackintosh, Charles Rennie 88 Batalha 351
L’Orme, Philibert de 178 McQueen, Alexander 47 Belém 346
Lost Wawel Exhibition (Krakow) 717 Madame Tussaud’s (London) 62 Castelo de São Jorge (Lisbon) 343
Lotz, Károly 699 Maderno, Carlo 376 Mosteiro dos Jerónimos (Lisbon)
Lótzia (Réthymno) 477 Madonna (Riemenschneider) 33 348
Lough Eske, hotels 138 Madonna of the Goldfinch (Raphael) Palácio Nacional de Sintra 352, 353
Louis IX, King of France 152, 157 406 Praça do Comércio (Lisbon) 344
Louis XI, King of France 177 Madonna of the Long Neck Tomar 350
Louis XII, King of France 170, 176, 177 (Parmigianino) 406 tomb of 348
Louis XIII, King of France 153, 168 Madrid 10, 265, 272–82 Torre de Belém (Lisbon) 347
Louis XIV, King of France 37, 146, 170, climate 322 Manuel II, King of Portugal 338, 342
225 hotels 330 Maó 309
Avignon 191 map 272–3 Maps
Château de Chambord 179 Paseo del Prado street-by-street Amsterdam 240–41
Château de Versailles 168–9 276–7 Arles street-by-street 192–3
Les Invalides (Paris) 162, 163 restaurants 333 Athens 450–51
St-Jean-de-Luz 189 tourist office 323 Austria 554–5
Louis XV, King of France 160, 169 travel 324, 325 Barcelona 296–7
Louis XVI, King of France 38, 161, 170 Two Days in Madrid 14 Barcelona: Barri Gòtic street-by-
Louis-Philippe, King of France 161 Magalhães (Magellan), Fernão 346 street 298–9
Louise, Queen of Denmark 642 Maggiore, Lake 411 Bath street-by-street 78–9
Louise de Lorraine 178 Magritte, René 221, 224, 228, 422 Beaches of the Côte d’Azur 196
Lourdes 189 Mahler, Gustav 555 Belgium and Luxembourg 215
Loúsios Gorge 469 Mail services 22 Berlin 500–501
Louvre, Musée du (Paris) 15, 32, see also Communications by British Isles 42–3
158–60 country Bruges street-by-street 226–7
Lovisa Ulrika, Queen of Sweden 609 Mainau 527 Brussels 216–17
Low Countries Maintenon, Madame de 169 Budapest 694–5
map 142–3 Mainz 530–31 Central and Eastern Europe 666–7
see also Belgium and Luxembourg; hotels 548 Copenhagen 638–9
Netherlands La Maison des Ducs de Brabant Corfu and the Ionian Islands 470
Löw, Rabbi 681 (Brussels) 218 Crete 476
Lowestoft, hotels 105 Maison des Halles (Neuchâtel) 581 Cyclades 472
Lübeck 537 Maison Louis Latour 187 Czech Republic 671
hotels 548 La Maison du Roi (Brussels) 218 Denmark 637
Lubomirski, Stanisław Herakliusz 715 Maison Tavel (Geneva) 580 Dijon 184–5
Lucas van Leyden 250, 254 MAK (Applied Arts Museum, Vienna) Dublin 114–15
Lucca 393 563 Dublin: Southeast Dublin street-by-
Lucerne 586 Malá Strana (Prague) 15, 669, 678–9 street 116–17
hotels 594 Málaga 311 Edinburgh 90–91
restaurants 595 hotels 332 Europe 18–19
Ludmilla, St. 676 Mälaren, Lake 610 Finland 653
Ludwig I, King of Bavaria 523, 525 Male, Emile 180 Florence 394–5
Ludwig II, King of Bavaria 527 Malevich, Kazimir 251 France 148–9
Ludwig IV the Bavarian, Emperor 522 Mália 476 France and the Low Countries
Lugano 589 The Mall (London) 56 142–3
restaurants 595 Mallorca 308, 309 Germany 498–9
Luís I, King of Portugal 350 hotels 332 Germany, Austria and Switzerland
Luís Felipe, Prince of Portugal 342, restaurants 335 492–3
344 Malmö 613 Great Britain 48–9
724-757_EW_Europe.indd 740 14/07/16 10:21 am

GENER AL INDEX  741


Maps (cont.) Marie de Médicis, Queen of France 157 Mausoleo di Galla Placidia (Ravenna)
Great Museums and Galleries 32–3 Marie-Antoinette, Queen of France 425
Greece 367, 448–9 Bois de Boulogne (Paris) 167 Mauve, Anton 250
Helsinki 654–5 Ile de la Cité (Paris) 152 Mavromichális, Pétros 468
Hungary 692–3 Musée du Louvre (Paris) 160 Maxentius, Emperor 385
Iberian Peninsula 264–5 Place de la Concorde (Paris) 161 Maximian, Emperor 417
Ireland 113 tomb of 170 Maximilian I, Elector of Bavaria 520
Italy 366–7, 372–3 Versailles 169 Maximilian I, Emperor 213, 219, 569
Landscapes of Europe 30–31 Mariefred 610 Maximilian II, King of Bavaria 524, 527
Lisbon 340–41 Marienbad 685 Maximilian Emmanuel, Elector of
Lisbon: Belém 341 Marienplatz (Munich) 14, 522 Bavaria 525
London 50–51 Mariinskiy Theater (St. Petersburg) 659 Mayer, Jürgen 321
London: South Kensington street- Marimekko 652 Mazovian dukes 712, 715
by-street 63 Marini, Marino 422 Medical care and health issues 21
London: Whitehall and Westminster Maris, Matthijs 88 Austria 570, 571
52–3 Mark, St. 416, 417 Czech Republic 686
Madrid 272–3 Marken 252 Denmark 646
Madrid: Paseo del Prado street-by- Market Square (Krakow) 707, 718 France 198–9
street 276–7 Market Square (Helsinki) 599, 655 Great Britain 97
Metéora 462 Markets Greece 478–9
Munich 518–19 Belgium and Luxembourg 232 Hungary 702
Netherlands 239 Feira da Ladra (Lisbon) 343 Italy 431
Norway 621 France 202 Netherlands 256
Oslo 622–3 Germany 542, 543 Poland 720, 721
Paris 150–51 Great Britain 100, 101 Portugal 358
Paris: Latin Quarter street-by-street Greece 482 Sweden 614
156–7 Italy 435 Medici, Anna Maria Lodovica de’
Park Sanssouci (Potsdam) 512–13 Mercado de Lanuza (Zaragoza) 308 406
Poland 709 Mercat de Sant Josep (Barcelona) 300 Medici, Cosimo I
Portugal 339 Monastiráki flea market (Athens) Fortezza Medicea (Siena) 392
Prague 672–3 452, 482 Palazzo Vecchio (Florence) 401
Prague Castle street-by-street Netherlands 258 statue of 400
674–5 Portobello Road (London) 70, 100, Uffizi (Florence) 404
Rail network see inside back cover 101 Medici, Cosimo il Vecchio 396, 397,
Rhodes and the Dodecanese 474 Portugal 360 402
Rome 374–5 El Rastro (Madrid) 275 Medici, Ferdinand I de’ 407
St. Petersburg 659 Spain 326, 327 Medici, Ferdinand II de’ 401
Scandinavia 598–9 Switzerland 592 Medici, Francesco I 404
Seville street-by-street 318–19 Vucciria (Palermo) 428 Medici, Lorenzo the Magnificent 402,
Siena street-by-street 390–91 Markgräfliches Opernhaus (Bayreuth) 403
Spain 270–71 516 Medici, Piero de’ 402
Stockholm 604–5 Markt (Bruges) 227 Medici family
Sweden 603 Marlborough, John Churchill, 1st Florentine Renaissance 402
Switzerland 578–9 Duke of 82, 83 Palazzo Pitti (Florence) 407
Toledo street-by-street 286–7 Marmorpalais (Potsdam) 511 San Lorenzo (Florence) 396
Venice 414–15 Marseille 194 Uffizi (Florence) 406
Vienna 556–7 hotels 208 Meersburg 527
Warsaw 710–11 restaurants 211 Megálo Metéoro (Metéora) 462
Wawel Hill (Krakow) 716 Martin, St. 177 Meia Praia 357
Wines of France 186–7 Martin V, Pope 402 Meissen 515
York street-by-street 86–7 Martin, Misses 132 Meit, Conrad 524
Marbella 311 Martini, Simone 191, 388, 392, 406 Melanchthon, Philipp 656
Marble Hill House (London) 71 Martinic, Jaroslav 675 Melissaní Cave-Lake 471
Marcello, Doge Nicolò 421 The Martyrdom of St. Philip (Ribera) Melk 567
Marconi, Guglielmo 424 278 Mellon, Judge Thomas 133
Marcus Aurelius, Emperor 383 Marx, Karl 61, 497 Memling, Hans 226, 523
Marès, Frederic 295, 299 Mary II, Queen of England 71 Moreel triptych 228
Margaret, St. 92 Mary, Queen of Scots 89, 92, 94 Menabuoi, Giusto de’ 413
Margrethe I, Queen of Denmark 635, Mary of Burgundy 213 Mengs, Anton Raphael 280
636 Mary of Guise 94 Menorca 308, 309
Margrethe II, Queen of Denmark 642 Mary Magdalene 182 hotels 332
Maria, Dona 348 Mas, Artur 269 restaurants 335
Maria I, Queen of Portugal 342 Masaccio 57, 393, 396 Menton 196
Maria II, Queen of Portugal 350 Master of Alkmar 250 Mercator, Gerhard 221
Maria Alexandrovna, Czarina 659 Master of Flémalle 220 Merchant Adventurer’s Hall (York)
Maria Christina, Princess 558 Master of Koudewater, St. Catherine 87
María Cristina, Queen of Spain 294 249 Merkel, Angela 496
Maria Eleonora, Queen of Sweden Matejko, Jan 714 Merlini, Dominik 715
606 Matisse, Henri 153, 162, 251, 643 Merrion Square (Dublin) 118–19
Maria Laach 531 Musée Matisse (Nice) 197 Messel, Alfred 504
Maria Louisa, Princess of Austria 565 Matterhorn 583, 584 Messerschmidt, Franz Xavier 565
María Luisa, Princess of Spain 321 Matthew of Arras 675, 684 Metéora 462–3
Maria Teresa, Queen of France 189 Mátyás Church (Budapest) 667, 697 Meunier, Constantin 221
Maria Theresa, Empress 555, 565, 569, Mátyás (Matthias) Corvinus, King of The Mezquita (Córdoba) 36, 316–17
696 Hungary 37, 691, 692, 693, 696 Michelangelo 37, 402
724-757_EW_Europe.indd 741 14/07/16 10:21 am

742  GENER AL INDEX


Michelangelo (cont.) Monasteries (cont.) Monument to the Ghetto Heroes
Albertina (Vienna) 563 Monasterio de Santa María de las (Warsaw) 714
Ashmolean Museum (Oxford) 80 Cuevas (Seville) 321 Monument to Those Fallen and
Bargello (Florence) 400 Monastery of Dafní 460 Murdered in the East (Warsaw) 714
Capitoline Museums (Rome) 383 Monastery of Osios Loukás 460–61 Monumento del Dos de Mayo
Castello Sforzesco (Milan) 410 Monestir de Montserrat 306–7 (Madrid) 277
Christ 75 Moní Agíou Ioánnou Prodrómou Moominworld 657
David 394, 397, 401 (Loúsios Gorge) 469 Moore, Henry 47, 57
Duomo (Siena) 392 Moní Aimyalón (Loúsios Gorge) 469 Moorish Spain 311
Galleria dell’Accademia (Florence) Moní Filerímou (Rhodes) 475 Moors 35, 36, 37, 267, 268
396–7 Moní Pantánassas (Mystrás) 469 Mora 611
The Holy Family 405, 406 Moní Perivléptou (Mystrás) 469 Mora, Juan Gómez de la 274
Musée du Louvre (Paris) 160 Moní Thárri (Rhodes) 475 Morales, Luis de 280
Onze Lieve Vrouwekerk (Bruges) 226 Moní Theotókou 471 Moravia 669
Original Sin 380 Mosteiro dos Jerónimos (Lisbon) Moreel triptych (Memling) 228
Palazzo Vecchio (Florence) 401 340, 348–9 Morris, William 65
Pietà 377 Mosteiro de Santa Maria de Morrison, Jim 167
Quattro Prigioni 397, 403 Alcobaça 351 Mosel Valley 530
Royal Academy (London) 58 Mount Athos 465 Moser, Koloman 563
St. Peter’s (Rome) 376 Néa Moní Filosófou (Loúsios Gorge) Mosques
San Domenico (Bologna) 424 469 Ermita del Cristo de la Luz (Toledo)
San Lorenzo (Florence) 396 Palaioú Kalamioú (Loúsios Gorge) 469 287
Sistine Chapel (Rome) 16, 380 Poblet 295 The Mezquita (Córdoba) 36, 316–17
tomb of 400 Real Monasterio de Huelgas Mosque of the Jannissaries (Chaniá)
Uffizi (Florence) 406 (Burgos) 289 477
Villa Giulia (Rome) 387 Real Monasterio de Santo Tomás Mosque of Murad Reis (Rhodes) 474
Michelozzo 397 (Avila) 285 Mosque of Suleiman (Rhides) 474
Mickiewicz, Adam 707, 718 St Peter’s Benedictine Monastery Nerantzés Mosque (Réthymno) 477
Mies van der Rohe, Ludwig 529 (Salzburg) 569 Mosteiro dos Jerónimos (Lisbon) 340,
Mieszko I, King of Poland 707, 708 Sanctuari de Lluc (Mallorca) 309 348–9
Mikhail Pavlovich, Grand Duke 658 Vrontóchion (Mystrás) 469 Motorways see Car travel
Milan 410–11 Monastiráki (Athens) 11, 452, 482 Moulin Rouge (Paris) 166, 204, 205
hotels 439 Mönch 583 Mountains
restaurants 442 Mondrian, Piet 251, 254, 422 Pyrenees 189
transport 432 Monemvasía 468 see also Alps
Mildert, William van, Bishop of hotels 485 Moustiers-Ste-Marie, hotels 208
Durham 85 restaurants 488 Mozart, Wolfgang Amadeus 555, 568,
Miliés 461 Moneo, Rafael 608 678
Mill Colonnade (Karlsbad) 685 Monet, Claude 38 Grote Kerk (Haarlem) 252
Millais, John Everett 57 Gemäldegalerie Neue Meister Mozart Memorial (Vienna) 559
The Princes in the Tower 69 (Dresden) 515 Salzburg 568, 569
Millennium Dome (London) 70 Kelvingrove Art Gallery and Salzburg Festival 573
Milles, Carl 609, 612 Museum (Glasgow) 88 Staatsoper (Vienna) 561
Millet, Jean François 88 Musée des Beaux Arts (Nice) 197 Mucha, Alfons 38, 670, 674, 683
Minoans 34, 476–7 Musée de l’Orangerie (Paris) 161 Muckross House (Killarney) 129
Minot, Archbishop of Dublin 120 Nasjonalgalleriet (Oslo) 625 Muhammad V, Caliph 312, 313
Miradouro de Santa Luzia (Lisbon) 343 National Gallery (London) 57 Muller, Daniel 229
Miradouro da Vigia (Sintra) 350 Ny Carlsberg Glyptotek Munch, Edvard 503, 533, 536, 620,
Miró, Joan 153, 281, 309 (Copenhagen) 640 625
Fundació Joan Miró (Barcelona) 304 Rouen 173 Munch-museet (Oslo) 625
Sternberg Palace (Prague) 677 Staatsgalerie (Stuttgart) 529 Young Woman on the Shore 625
Mistral, Frédéric 192 Stedelijk Museum (Amsterdam) 251 Mungo, St. 88
Mitterand, François 147 Weimar Schloss 515 Munich 10, 493, 518–25
Mlada, Princess 676 Money see Currency; Practical airport 541
Mocenigo, Doge Pietro 421 information climate 538
Mocker, Josef 684 Money-saving cards 20 hotels 547
Moderna museet (Stockholm) 608 Moniuszko, Stanisław 713 map 518–19
Modigliani, Amedeo 161, 529 Monreale 428 Oktoberfest 526
Moët & Chandon 172, 187 Monsateries, Monasterio de la Cartuja restaurants 550
Molière 167 (Granada) 310 shopping 543
Molin, J.P. 607 Mont-St-Michel 144, 174–5 tourist office 539
Møller, Erik 645 hotels 206 Two Days in Munich 14–15
Mona Lisa (Leonardo da Vinci) 160 Montand, Yves 167 Municipal House (Prague) 683
Monaco 196, 197 Monte Carlo 197 Munkácsy, Mihály 696
hotels 208 Monte Mottarone 411 Münster 536
Monasterboice 126 Monte Urgull (San Sebastián) 294 hotels 548
Monasteries Montefeltro, Federico da 425 restaurants 551
Certosa di San Martino (Naples) 426 Montferrand, Auguste de 658 Murano 17, 423
Glendalough 125, 126–7 Montjuïc (Barcelona) 12, 304 Murcia, hotels 331
Hostal de San Marcos (León) 289 Montmartre (Paris) 15, 166 Murillo, Bartolomé Esteban 275, 314,
Metéora 462–3 Montreux 581 321
Monasterio de las Descalzas Reales festivals 593 Museums and galleries 32–3
(Madrid) 274–5 Montserrat, Monestir de 306–7 Aboa Vetus and Ars Nova (Turku) 657
Monasterio de la Encarnación Monument to the Discoveries Accademia (Venice) 17, 423
(Avila) 285 (Lisbon) 346–7 Albertina (Vienna) 563
724-757_EW_Europe.indd 742 14/07/16 10:21 am

GENER AL INDEX  743


Museums and galleries (cont.) Museums and galleries (cont.) Museums and galleries (cont.)
Albrecht-Dürer-Haus (Nuremberg) Centre Belge de la Bande Dessineée Glyptothek (Munich) 14, 523
517 (Brussels) 220 Goethe-Museum (Weimar) 515
Alte Galerie (Graz) 566 Centre Guillaume-le-Conquérant Goethehaus (Frankfurt am Main)
Alte Pinakothek (Munich) 14, 523 (Bayeux) 173 532
Altes Museum (Berlin) 504 Centre Pompidou (Paris) 39, 153 Gotlands Fornsal (Visby) 611
Amalienborg (Copenhagen) 642 Centro de Arte Reina Sofia (Madrid) Grassimuseum (Leipzig) 515
Amsterdam Museum 244–5 14, 281 Groeninge Museum (Bruges) 228
Anne Frank House (Amsterdam) 11, Cité de l’Architecture et du Grosvenor Museum (Chester) 84
245 Patrimonie (Paris) 164 Gruuthuse Museum (Bruges) 228
Aran Heritage Centre (Kilronan) 131 Cité des Sciences et de l’Industrie Guinness Storehouse (Dublin) 13,
Archaeological Museum (Agios (Paris) 166–7 123
Nikólaos) 477 Cité de l’Espace (Toulouse) 188 Gustav III’s Museum of Antiquities
Archaeological Museum (Ancient Cité de la Musique (Paris) 167 (Stockholm) 606
Olympia) 469 City Art Galleries (Manchester) 85 Gustavianum (Uppsala) 610
Archaeological Museum (Chaniá) Crawford Art Gallery (Cork) 128 Gutenberg Museum (Mainz) 531
477 Crypte Archéologique du Bock Haags Gemeentemuseum (The
Archaeological Museum (Corfu (Luxembourg City) 229 Hague) 254
Town) 470 Csontváry Museum (Pécs) 701 Hans Christian Andersen Museum
Archaeological Museum (Mýkonos) Czartoryski Museum (Krakow) 719 (Odense) 644–5
472 Dansk Jødisk Museum Hanseatiske Museum (Bergen) 628
Archaeological Museum (Náfplio) (Copenhagen) 643 Hermetikkmuseet (Stavanger) 628
467 Design Museum (Ghent) 225 The Hermitage (St. Petersburg) 33,
Archaeological Museum (Náxos) 473 Deutsches Architekturmuseum 658
Archaeological Museum (Pécs) 701 (Frankfurt am Main) 532 Hermitage Amsterdam 247
Archaeological Museum Deutsches Filmmuseum (Frankfurt Historical and Folk Art Museum
(Réthymno) 477 am Main) 532 (Réthymno) 477
Archaeological Museum (Rhodes) Deutsches Museum (Munich) 14, Historical Museum (Bern) 582
474 524 Historical Museum (Irákleio) 476
Archaeological Museum Diamond Museum (Antwerp) 224 Historisches Museum (Frankfurt am
(Thessaloníki) 464 Domäne Dahlem (Berlin) 510 Main) 532
Architekturzentrum (Vienna) 562 Dublin City Gallery, The Hugh Lane Historiska museet (Stockholm) 609
Arentshuis Museum (Bruges) 227 (Dublin) 123 Historiskt Centrum (Uppsala) 611
Arnolfini Gallery (Bristol) 76 Dublin Writers Museum (Dublin) 123 Hjemmerfrontmuseet (Oslo) 623
Ars Electronica Center (Linz) 567 Dublinia and the Viking World Hofjagd und Rüstkammer (Vienna)
Ashmolean Museum (Oxford) 80 (Dublin) 13, 121 560
Astrup Fearnley Museet (Oslo) 624 Ephesos Museum (Vienna) 560 Het Hollands Kaasmuseum
At-Bristol 76 Espace Montmartre Salvador Dalí (Alkmaar) 252
Atelier Paul Cézanne (Aix-en- (Paris) 166 Houishbrouwerij de Halve Maan
Provence) 194 Fitzwilliam Museum (Cambridge) 81 (Bruges) 228
Atenum Art Museum (Helsinki) 656 Focke Museum (Bremen) 537 House of Terror Museum (Budapest)
Autoworld (Brussels) 223 Folk Art Museum (Náfplio) 467 699
Bacharchive und Bachmuseum Folk and Ethnological Museum Hungarian National Gallery
(Leipzig) 515 (Thessaloníki) 464 (Budapest) 696
Ballenberg 583 Folk Museum (Agios Nikólaos) 477 Hungarian National Museum
Barbier-Müller Museum (Geneva) 580 Folk Museum (Mýkonos) 472 (Budapest) 698
Bargello (Florence) 400 Frammuseet (Oslo) 626 Hunterian Art Gallery (Glasgow) 88
Bayerisches Nationalmuseum Frans Hals Museum (Haarlem) 252–3 Istitut Valencìa de Art Modern
(Munich) 524 Franz-Liszt-Museum (Bayreuth) 516 (Valencia) 308
Beethovenhaus (Bonn) 533 Franz Liszt Museum (Budapest) 697 Jagdzuegmagazin (Berlin) 510
Belvedere (Vienna) 17, 564–5 Freud Museum (Vienna) 562–3 Jameson Experience, Midleton 128
Benáki Museum (Athens) 11, 457 Fundação Serralves (Oporto) 355 Jewish Museum (Eisenstadt) 566
Beyler Foundation (Basel) 581 Fundació Joan Miró (Barcelona) 12, Jewish Museum (Prague) 681
Bildergalerie (Potsdam) 513 304 Joods Historisch Museum
Birkamuseet (Birka) 610 Galerij Prins Willem V (The Hague) (Amsterdam) 240, 243
British Golf Museum (St. Andrews) 89 254 Jorvik Viking Center (York) 87
British Museum (London) 32, 60–61 Galleria dell’Accademia (Florence) Jüdisches Museum (Berlin) 12, 508
Brú na Bóinne Interpretive Centre 396–7 Kattenkabinet (Amsterdam) 246
(Newgrange) 124 Galleria Doria Pamphilj (Rome) Keats-Shelley Memorial House
Brücke-Museum (Berlin) 510 382–3 (Rome) 386
Budapest History Museum Galleria Nazionale dell’Umbria Kelvingrove Art Gallery and
(Budapest) 696 (Perugia) 389 Museum (Glasgow) 88
Buddenbrookhaus (Lübeck) 537 Galleria Regionale di Palazzo Kiasma, Museum of Contemporary
Building of Bath Collection (Bath) 79 Bellomo (Syracuse) 429 Art (Helsinki) 656
Burrell Collection (Glasgow) 88 Galleria Regionale di Sicilia Klee Centre (Bern) 582
Byzantine and Christian Museum (Palermo) 428 Kodály Museum (Budapest) 697
(Athens) 11, 457 Galleria Sabauda (Turin) 409 Kon-Tiki Museum (Oslo) 626
Byzantine Museum (Corfu Town) 470 Den Gamle By (Århus) 645 Koninklijk Museum voor Schone
Capitoline Museums (Rome) 16, 383 Gemäldegalerie (Berlin) 12, 503 Kunst (Antwerp) 224
Casa Natale di Raffaello (Urbino) 425 Gemäldegalerie Alte Meister Konstmuseet (Gothenborg) 612
Casa-Museo de El Greco (Toledo) (Dresden) 514 Kunsten (Aarlborg) 645
288 Gemäldegalerie Neue Meister Kunstgewerbemuseum (Berlin) 12,
Casa-Museu Gaudí (Barcelona) 305 (Dresden) 515 503
Castle Museum (Savonlinna) 657 Germanisches Nationalmuseum Kunsthal (Rotterdam) 255
Centraal Museum (Utrecht) 253 (Nuremberg) 517 Kunsthalle (Bremen) 537
724-757_EW_Europe.indd 743 14/07/16 10:21 am

744  GENER AL INDEX


Museums and galleries (cont.) Museums and galleries (cont.) Museums and galleries (cont.)
Kunsthalle (Hamburg) 537 Musée de la Céramique (Rouen) 173 Museo Art Nouveau y Art Déco
Kunsthistorisches Museum (Vienna) Musée Chagall (Nice) 197 (Salamanca) 285
17, 33, 562 Musée de Cires (Waterloo) 225 Museo de Arte Contemporáneo
Kunstmuseum (Basel) 581 Musée de la Civilisation Gallo- (Seville) 321
Kunstmuseum Bonn 533 Romaine (Lyon) 182, 183 Museo de Artes Decorativas
Kurpfälzisches Museum Musée du Costume et de la (Lisbon) 343
(Heidelberg) 529 Dentelle (Brussels) 218 Museo de Artes y Costumbres
Landzeughaus (Graz) 566 Musée Dauphinois (Grenoble) 183 Populares (Seville) 321
Lentos Kunstmuseum (Linz) 567 Musée des Docks Romains Museo de Bellas Artes (Bilbao) 294
Leopold Museum (Vienna) 562 (Marseilles) 194 Museo de Bellas Artes (Córdoba)
Liebighaus (Frankfurt am Main) 532 Musée Granet (Aix-en-Provence) 194 314
Lignos Folklore Museum (Firá) 473 Musée de Grenoble 183 Museo de Bellas Artes (Oviedo) 293
Linden Museum (Stuttgart) 529 Musée de la Histoire de la Ville de Museo de Bellas Artes (Santander)
London Museum of Water and Luxembourg 229 293
Steam 71 Musée d’Histoire de Marseilles 194 Museo de Bellas Artes (Seville) 321
London Transport Museum 59 Musée de l’Homme (Paris) 164 Museo de Bellas Artes (Valencia)
Lost Wawel Exhibition (Krakow) 717 Musée Horta (Brussels) 223 308, 309
Ludwig Museum - Museum of Musée International d’Horlogerie Museo de Burgos 289
Contemporary Art (Budapest) 697 (Neuchâtel) 581 Museo de Cádiz 315
Madame Tussaud’s (London) 62 Musée Jules Verne (Nantes) 176 Museo Camón Aznar (Zaragoza) 308
Maison de Jeanne d’Arc (Orléans) 179 Musée Lapidaire (Avignon) 191 Museo di Cappodimonte (Naples)
Malmö Konsthall 613 Musée du Louvre (Paris) 15, 32, 426
Malmömuseer (Malmö) 613 158–60 Museo Casa de los Tiros (Granada)
Margit Kovács Museum Musée Magnin (Dijon) 185 310
(Szentendre) 700 Musée Matisse (Nice) 197 Museo Civico (San Gimignano) 393
Maritiem Museum Rotterdam 255 Musée Mémorial de la Bataille de Museo Civico (Siena) 391
Maritiman (Gothenborg) 612 Normandie (Bayeux) 173 Museo Civico (Vicenza) 413
Maritime Museum of the Aegean Musée de Montmartre (Paris) 166 Museo Civico d’Arte Antica (Turin)
(Mýkonos) 472 Musée National d’Histoire et d’Art 409
Marker Museum (Marken) 252 (Luxembourg City) 229 Museo Civico Eremitani (Padua)
Mauritshuis (The Hague) 254 Musée National de la Marine (Paris) 413
Memling Sint-Jan-Hospitaal 164 Museo Correr (Venice) 420
Museum (Bruges) 226 Musée National du Moyen Age Museo Diocesano (Urbino) 425
Mercedes-Benz Museum (Stuttgart) (Paris) 156 Museo del Duomo (Milan) 410
529 Musée Océanographique (Monaco) Museo Egizio (Turin) 409
Military Museum (Warsaw) 714 197 Museo e Galleria Borghese (Rome)
Mining Museum (Kutná Hora) 684 Musée de l’Orangerie (Paris) 161 16, 387
Mittelalterliches Museum Musée de l’Ordre de la Libération Museo Guggenheim (Bilbao) 39,
(Rothenburg ob der Tauber) 517 (Paris) 162 294
Mittelrheinisches Museum Musée d’Orsay (Paris) 15, 162 Museo de León 289
(Koblenz) 531 Musée du Petit Palais (Avignon) 191 Museo Marítimo (Seville) 321
Moderna museet (Stockholm) 608 Musée Picasso (Paris) 153 Museo Nacional de Artes
Mozart Wohnhaus (Salzburg) 569 Musée des Plans-Reliefs (Paris) 162 Decorativas (Madrid) 277
Mozarts Geburtshaus (Salzburg) 569 Musée de Préhistoire (Carnac) 173 Museo de Navarra (Pamplona) 294
Munch-museet (Oslo) 625 Musée du Quai Branly (Paris) 164 Museo Nazionale (Ravenna) 425
Municipal Art Gallery (Mýkonos) 472 Musée Réattu (Arles) 192 Museo Nazionale di San Matteo
Musée Alsacien (Strasbourg) 172 Musée de la Reddition (Reims) 172 (Pisa) 393
Musée Archéologique (Nîmes) Musée Rodin (Paris) 162 Museo Nazionale del Cinema
190 Musée Royal de l’Armée et (Turin) 409
Musée de l’Armée (Paris) 162 d’Histoire Militaire (Brussels) 223 Museo Nazionale Romano (Rome)
Musée d’Art Contemporain (Lyon) Musée Royaux des Beaux-Arts 385
183 (Brussels) 220–21 Museo dell’Opera del Duomo
Musée d’Art Contemporain (Nice) Musée Sainte-Croix (Poitiers) 176 (Siena) 390, 392
197 Musée des Tissus (Lyon) 183 Museo Picasso (Málaga) 311
Musée d’Art et d’Histoire (Geneva) Musée de la Ville (Brussels) 218 Museo del Prado (Madrid) 14, 32,
580 Musée du Vin de Bourgogne 265, 278–80
Musée d’Art Moderne et (Beaune) 182 Museo de Prehistoria y Arqueología
Contemporain, Le Vaisseau Musée Wellington (Waterloo) 225 (Santander) 293
(Strasbourg) 172 Musées Royaux d’Art et d’Histoire Museo Regionale Archeologico
Musée d’Art Naïf Max Fourny (Paris) (Brussels) 223 (Agrigento) 429
166 Museo de América (Madrid) 282 Museo Regionale Salinas (Palermo)
Musée des Augustins (Toulouse) 189 Museo Archeologico Nazionale 428
Musée des Beaux Arts (Bordeaux) (Naples) 426 Museo de San Telmo (San
188 Museo Archeologico Nazionale Sebastián) 294
Musée des Beaux Arts (Dijon) 184 dell’Umbria (Perugia) 389 Museo di Sant’ Agostino (Genoa)
Musée des Beaux Arts (Lyon) 183 Museo Archeologico Regionale 408
Musée des Beaux Arts (Nice) 197 Paolo Orsi (Syracuse) 429 Museo de Santa Cruz (Toledo) 287,
Musée des Beaux Arts (Rouen) 173 Museo Arqueológico (Córdoba) 314 288
Musée des Beaux-Arts (Nantes) 176 Museo Arqueológico (Granada) 310 Museo Sefardi (Toledo) 288
Musée des Beaux-Arts (Orléans) 179 Museo Arqueológico Nacional Museo di Storia della Scienza
Musée des Beaux-Arts de la Ville de (Madrid) 282 (Florence) 401
Paris 165 Museo Arqueológico (Oviedo) 293 Museo Taurino (Córdoba) 314
Musée Calvert (Avignon) 191 Museo Arqueológico Etnográfico e Museo Taurino (Ronda) 314
Musée Camarguais 194 Histórico Vasco (Bibao) 294 Museo Teatrale (Milan) 410
724-757_EW_Europe.indd 744 14/07/16 10:21 am

GENER AL INDEX  745


Museums and galleries (cont.) Museums and galleries (cont.) Museums and galleries (cont.)
Museo Thyssen-Bornemisza Museum of Prehistoric Thera (Firá) Pinacoteca Nazionale (Siena) 392
(Madrid) 276, 281 473 Pinatothek der Moderne (Munich)
Museo del Vetro (Murano) 423 Museum Het Rembrandthuis 14, 524
Museon Arlaten (Arles) 192 (Amsterdam) 243 Pitt Rivers Museum (Oxford) 80
Museu Arquelògic (Barcelona) Museum of Serbian Art Polarmuseet (Tromsø) 629
304 (Szentendre) 700 Porsche-Museum (Stuttgart) 529
Museu dels Automates (Barcelona) Museum Tinguely (Basel) 581 Queen’s Gallery (London) 56
305 Museum Volkenkunde (Leiden) 254 Rätisches Museum (Chur) 588
Museu Calouste Gulbenkian Museum voor Schone Kunst Red Crescent Museum (Geneva)
(Lisbon) 345 (Ghent) 225 580
Museu de Cera (Barcelona) 300 MuseumsQuartier Wien (Vienna) 17, Reichsstadtmuseum (Rothenburg
Museu Etnològic (Barcelona) 304 562 ob der Tauber) 517
Museu Frederic Marès (Barcelona) Museumszentrum (Berlin) 510 Rheinisches Landesmuseum (Bonn)
299 Nasjonalgalleriet (Oslo) 625 533
Museu d’Història de Barcelona 12, National Archaeological Museum Rheinisches Landesmuseum (Trier)
299 (Athens) 11, 452 530
Museu da Marinha (Lisbon) 347 National Gallery (London) 13, 57 Rijksmuseum (Amsterdam) 11, 32,
Museu Municipal (Faro) 356, 357 National Gallery of Ireland (Dublin) 248–50
Museu Nacional Arqueològic 13, 119 Rijksmuseum van Oudheden
(Tarragona) 295 National Gallery of Scotland (Leiden) 254
Museu Nacional d’Art de Catalunya (Edinburgh) 93 Röhsska Museet (Gothenborg) 612
(Barcelona) 304–5 National Maritime Museum Römisch-Germanisches Museum
Museu Nacional de Arte Antiga (London) 70 (Cologne) 533
(Lisbon) 345 National Museum (Copenhagen) Rosengart Collection (Lucerne)
Museu Nacional de Arte 640 586
Contemporânea (MNAC) (Lisbon) National Museum (Prague) 683 Royal Academy (London) 58
345 National Museum (Warsaw) 714 Royal Observatory Greenwich
Museu Nacional do Azulejo (Lisbon) National Museum of Finland (London) 70
342 (Helsinki) 655, 656 Rubenshuis (Antwerp) 224
Museu Nacional dos Coches National Museum of Ireland - Russian Museum (St. Petersburg)
(Lisbon) 346 Archaeology (Dublin) 13, 117, 119 658
Museu Nacional Machado de National Museum of Scotland St. Annen-Museum (Lübeck) 537
Castro (Coimbra) 354 (Edinburgh) 93 Salisbury and South Wiltshire
Museu Picasso (Barcelona) 301 National Portrait Gallery (London) Museum 73
Museu de la Romanitat (Tarragona) 58 Salzburg Museum 569
295 National Railway Museum (York) 87 Sammlung alter Musikinstrumente
Museum of Applied Arts (Budapest) Nationalmuseum (Stockholm) 16, (Vienna) 560
697 607 Sammlung Berggruen (Berlin) 509
Museum of Applied Arts (Vienna) Natural History Museum (London) Schatzkammer (Vienna) 558, 560
563 44, 63, 64–5 Het Scheepvaartmuseum
Museum der Bildenden Künste Naturhistorisches Museum (Vienna) (Amsterdam) 247
(Leipzig) 515 561 Schiele Centrum (Český Krumlov)
Museum Boijmans-van Beuningen Nederlands Spoorwegmuseum 685
(Rotterdam) 255 (Utrecht) 253 Schlossbergmuseum (Graz) 566
Museum Bredius (The Hague) 254 Nemo (Amsterdam) 247 Science Museum (London) 63, 64
Museum of Byzantine Culture Neue Burg (Vienna) 559, 560 Scottish National Portrait Gallery
(Thessaloníki) 464 Neue Nationalgalerie (Berlin) 503 (Edinburgh) 94
Museum Catharijneconvent Neue Pinakothek (Munich) 14, 523 Skansen (Stockholm) 16, 608
(Utrecht) 253 Neues Museum (Weimar) 515 Smålands Museum (Växjö) 612
Museum of Cycladic Art (Athens) New Acropolis Museum (Athens) Spielzeugmuseum (Munich) 522
11, 450, 457 11, 456 Sprengel-Musuem (Hanover) 536
Museum Europäischer Kulturen Niedersächsisches Landesmuseum Staatliche Antikensammlung
(Berlin) 510 (Hanover) 536 (Munich) 14, 523
Museum of Fine Arts (Budapest) Nordenfeldske Staatsgalerie (Stuttgart) 529
699 Kunstindustrimuseum (Trondheim) Städelsches Kunstinstitut (Frankfurt
Museum für Fotographie (Berlin) 629 am Main) 532
509 Nordiska museet (Stockholm) 609 Stadtmuseum (Munich) 522
Museum für Moderne Kunst Norsk Folkemuseum (Oslo) 626 Stadtmuseum (Weimar) 515
(Frankfurt am Main) 532 Norsk Oljemuseum (Stavanger) Statens Museum for Kunst
Museum Goldenes Dachl 628 (Copenhagen) 643
(Innsbruck) 569 Ny Carlsberg Glyptotek Stedelijk Museum (Amsterdam) 11,
Museum Hallstatt 568 (Copenhagen) 640 251
Museum Island (Berlin) 12 Orthodox Museum (Savonlinna) Stedelijk Museum De Lakenhal
Museum of London (London) 657 (Leiden) 254
66 Palais Masena (Nice) 197 Stedelijk Museum Het Prinsenhof
Museum Ludwig (Cologne) 533 Palazzo Pitti (Florence) 407 (Delft) 255
Museum of Modern Art Ludwig Passauer Glasmuseum 527 Sternberg Palace (Prague) 677
Foundation (Vienna) 562 Peggy Guggenheim Collection Swiss Museum of Transport
Museum Ons’ Lieve Heer op Solder (Venice) 17, 422 (Lucerne) 586
(Amsterdam) 242 Pergamonmuseum (Berlin) 12, 33, Tate Britain (London) 56–7
Museum Oşwięcim-Brzezinka 504 Tate Liverpool 84
719 Pinacoteca di Brera (Milan) 410–11 Tate Modern (London) 13, 50, 66–7
Museum Plantin-Moretus (Antwerp) Pinacoteca Comunale (Assisi) 389 Thorvaldsen’s Museum
224 Pinacoteca Nazionale (Bologna) 424 (Copenhagen) 641
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746  GENER AL INDEX


Museums and galleries (cont.) Naples 426 Nering, Johann Arnold 509
Tiroler Landesmuseum (Innsbruck) hotels 440 Nero, Emperor 385
569 restaurants 443 Neruda, Jan 678
Tiroler Volkskunstmuseum Napoleon I, Emperor of France 38, Nerudova Street (Prague) 15, 678
(Innsbruck) 569 146, 496, 565 Ness, Loch 95
Titanic Belfast 132 Accademia (Venice) 423 Netherlands 236–61
Tokaj Museum (Tokaj) 701 Alhambra (Granada) 312 Amsterdam 11, 240–51
Tour Solidor (St-Malo) 173 Arc de Triomphe (Paris) 165 bulbfields 253
Tower Bridge Exhibition (London) 67 Arc de Triomphe du Carrousel entertainment 258–9
Tre Kronor Museum (Stockholm) 606 (Paris) 158 history 237–8
Troldhaugen 628, 629 Battle of Waterloo 225 hotels 260
Uffizi (Florence) 33, 404–6 Château de Fontainebleau 171 language and culture 238
Ulster-American Folk Park 133 Cimetière du Père Lachaise (Paris) 167 map 239
Universalmuseum Joanneum (Graz) coronation 154, 160 practical information 256
566 Helvetic Republic 578, 579 restaurants 261
University Museum of Natural occupation of Vienna 554, 555, 560 shopping 258, 259
History (Oxford) 80 Peninsular War 268, 338 travel 256–7
Utvandrarnas Hus (Växjö) 612 La Sorbonne 157 Neuchâtel 581
Van Gogh Museum (Amsterdam) tomb of 163 Neue Burg (Vienna) 559, 560
11, 251 Napoleon III, Emperor of France 38, Neue Kammern (Potsdam) 513
Vasamuseet (Stockholm) 16, 608 75, 146, 164, 167 Neue Nationalgalerie (Berlin) 503
Vasarely Museum (Pécs) 701 Narutowicz, Gabriel 712 Neue Pinakothek (Munich) 14, 523
Vatican Museums (Rome) 16, 33, Nash, John 58, 62, 72 Neue Synagoge (Berlin) 505
378–80 Nasjonalgalleriet (Oslo) 625 Neue Wache (Berlin) 12, 502
Vermeer Centrum (Delft) 255 Nasmyth, Alexander 94 Neues Palais (Potsdam) 512, 513
Victoria and Albert Museum Nasrid dynasty 310, 312, 313 Neues Rathaus (Hanover) 536
(London) 63, 65 National Archaeological Museum Neues Rathaus (Munich) 14, 519,
Vikingeskibsmuseet (Roskilde) 644 (Athens) 452 522
Vikingskipshuset (Oslo) 626 National Gallery (London) 13, 57 Neumann, Balthasar 516
Volkskundemuseum (Bruges) 228 National Gallery of Ireland (Dublin) Neuschwanstein 527
The Walker (Liverpool) 84 13, 119 Nevskiy Prospekt (St. Petersburg) 599,
Wallraf-Richartz-Museum (Cologne) National Gallery of Scotland 658
533 (Edinburgh) 93 New Acropolis Museum (Athens) 11,
Warsaw Museum 712 National Library (Dublin) 117 456
Weltmuseum Wien (Vienna) 560 National Maritime Museum (London) New Quay, restaurants 139
Wereldmuseum Rotterdam 255 70 New Town (Edinburgh) 92
Westfälisches Landesmusuem National Museum (Copenhagen) 640 New Town (Prague) 682–3
(Münster) 536 National Museum (Prague) 683 Newcastle (Ireland), hotels 138
Whitworth Art Gallery (Manchester) National Museum (Warsaw) 714 Newgrange 124
85 National Museum of Finland Nice 196–7
York Castle Museum (York) 87 (Helsinki) 655, 656 climate 198
Yorkshire Museum (York) 86 National Museum of Ireland - hotels 208
Zermatlantis (Zermatt) 583 Archaeology (Dublin) 13, 117, 119 restaurants 211
ZOOM Kinder-museum (Vienna) 562 National Museum of Scotland Nicholas II, Czar 652, 658
Music (Edinburgh) 93 Nietzsche, Friedrich Wilhelm 515
Austria 572–3 National parks Nieuwe Kerk (Amsterdam) 11, 244
Belgium and Luxemburg 232–3 Connemara National Park 131 The Night Watch (Rembrandt) 249
France 204, 205 Dartmoor National Park 76 Nightlife see Entertainment
Germany 544–5 Killarney National Park 129 Nikolaiviertel (Berlin) 12, 505
Great Britain 102, 103 Mount Aínos National Park 471 Nîmes 190
Greece 482–3 Parc Nacional d’Aigüestortes 295 hotels 208
Ireland 136–7 Parc National des Pyrénées 189 restaurants 211
Italy 436, 437 Parque Nacional de Doñana 315 Nobel Peace Prize 624
Netherlands 258, 259 Swiss National Park 588 Nobile, Peter 558
Portugal 360, 361 National Portrait Gallery (London) 58 Noja, restaurants 334
Spain 328, 329 National Railway Museum (York) 87 Nordiska museet (Stockholm) 609
Switzerland 592, 593 National Theater (Lisbon) 344 Norman Shaw Buildings (London) 53
Mussolini, Benito 370, 411 National Theater (Prague) 683 Norsk Folkemuseum (Oslo) 626
Mycenae 34, 467 Nationalmuseum (Stockholm) 16, 607 Northern Ireland 111, 112, 132–3
Mykines, hotels 485 Nationaltheatret (Oslo) 624 Norway 618–33
Mýkonos 472 Natural History Museum (London) 44, Bergen 628–9
hotels 486 63, 64–5 history 619–20
restaurants 488 Naturhistorisches Museum (Vienna) hotels 632
Myrtos Bay (Kefalloniá) 445 561 landscape 30
Myslbek, Josef 683 Navacerrada, restaurants 334 language and culture 620
Mystrás 468–9 Náxos 473 map 621
N hotels 486 Oslo 622–6
practical information 630–31
restaurants 489
Naantali 657 Nazarenes 515, 523 restaurants 633
Náfplio 467 Neílos 462 travel 630–31
hotels 485 Nelson, Admiral Horatio 66, 429, 636 Nost, John 71
restaurants 488 Nelson’s Column (London) 58 Notke, Bernt 605
The Naked Maja (Goya) 279 Nemo (Amsterdam) 247 Notre-Dame (Paris) 15, 152, 154–5
Nantes 176 Néos Mystrás, hotels 485 Notting Hill (London) 70
restaurants 210 Nepomuk, St. John 522, 675, 679 Nouvel, Jean 164
724-757_EW_Europe.indd 746 14/07/16 10:21 am

GENER AL INDEX  747


Nuremberg 517 Orléans 179 Palaces (cont.)
hotels 547 hotels 207 Kinský Palace (Prague) 15, 682
restaurants 550 restaurants 210 Knossos 34, 476
travel 541 Ormonde, Duke of 123 Kongelige Slottet (Oslo) 624
Ny Carlsberg Glyptotek Orrefors 612 Koninklijk Paleis (Amsterdam) 11, 244
(Copenhagen) 640 Osios Loukás, Monastery of 460–61 Kurfürstliches Schloss (Koblenz) 531
Nyhavn (Copenhagen) 596–7, 639, Oslo 598, 622–6 Kurfürstliches Schloss (Mainz) 531
642 airport 630, 631 Lobkowicz Palace (Prague) 675
Nyon 580 climate 630 Marmorpalais (Potsdam) 511
O hotels 632 Neue Residenz (Bamberg) 516
map 622–3
Neues Palais (Potsdam) 512, 513
O2 Arena (London) 70 restaurants 633 Neues Schloss (Bayreuth) 516
The Oath of the Horatii (David) 38 Östberg, Ragnar 606 Neues Schloss (Stuttgart) 529
Obama, Barack 624 Osterfjord 628 Old Royal Palace (Prague) 15, 674,
O’Brien family 130 Oşwięcim (Auschwitz ) 719 676
O’Carolan, Turlough 121 O’Toole, Laurence, Archbishop of Paço Episcopal (Faro) 356
Oceanário de Lisboa (Lisbon) 342 Dublin 121 Palace of the Grand Masters
O’Connell, Daniel 118, 122 Otto I, Emperor 496 (Rhodes) 474
O’Connell Street (Dublin) 122–3 Otto, King of the Saxons 36 Palace of Holyroodhouse
Odense 637, 644–5 Oude Kerk (Amsterdam) 241, 242 (Edinburgh) 94
hotels 648 Our Lady of the Dry Tree (Christus) 276, Palace of St. Michael and St. George
restaurants 649 281 (Corfu Town) 470
Odo, Bishop of Bayeux 173 Ouranoúpoli 465 Palace on the Water (Warsaw) 715
The Ognissanti Madonna (Giotto) 404, Outdoor activities see Sports and Palacio Arzobispal (Seville) 318
406 outdoor activities Palacio da Bolsa (Oporto) 355
Oítylo 468 Oviedo 293 Palacio Episcopal (Zaragoza) 308
Olaf, St., King of Norway 86 Oxford 45, 80 Palácio Foz (Lisbon) 344
Olbrich, Joseph Maria 563 hotels 105 Palacio de Linares (Madrid) 277
Old Bushmills Distillery 133 Palacio de la Madraza (Granada) 310
Old Jewish Cemetery (Prague) 15, 681 P Palacio de la Magdalena
Old Market Hall (Helsinki) 655 Pacassi, Nikolaus 565 (Santander) 293
Old Royal Palace (Prague) 15, 674, 676 Package deals 25 Palacio Marqués de Salvatierra
Old-New Synagogue (Prague) 15, see also Travel (Ronda) 314
680–81 Padua 413 Palacio Miramar (San Sebastián) 294
Old Synagogue (Krakow) 719 hotels 439 Palacio Mondragón (Ronda) 314
Old Town (Prague) 15, 682–3 restaurants 442 Palácio Nacional de Sintra 350,
Old Town Hall (Prague) 15, 682–3 Pais, Gualdim 350 352–3
Old Town Market Square (Warsaw) 712 Palace of Culture and Science Palácio da Pena (Sintra) 350
Old Town Square (Prague) 15, 673, 682 (Warsaw) 711, 714 Palacio de Penmartín (Jerez de la
An Old Woman Cooking Eggs Palaces Frontera) 315
(Velázquez) 93 Achílleion Palace (Corfu) 471 Palacio Real (Madrid) 275
Olives and olive oil 195 Alcázar de los Reyes Cristianos Palais de Chaillot (Paris) 164
Olomouc, hotels 688 (Córdoba) 314 Palais Constantine (Arles) 192
Olsen, Jens 640 Alcázar de Viana (Córdoba) 314 Palais des Ducs (Dijon) 184
Olympia, Ancient 469 Alfajería (Zaragoza) 308 Palais Grand Ducal (Luxembourg
hotels 485 Alhambra (Granada) 262–3, 312–13 City) 229
Olympiapark (Munich) 525 Alte Hofhaltung (Bamberg) 516 Palais de Justice (Grenoble) 183
Olympos (Kárpathos) 475 Altes Schloss (Stuttgart) 528 Palais Masena (Nice) 197
Olympos, Mount 465 Amalienborg (Copenhagen) 642 Palais des Papes (Avignon) 191
Onzain, hotels 207 Belvedere (Vienna) 17, 564–5 Palais Princier (Monaco) 197
Open-air entertainment see Bishop’s Palace (Bamberg) 516 Palais Rohan (Strasbourg) 172
Entertainment Bishop’s Palace (Chur) 588 Palais Royal (Brussels) 221
Opening hours see Practical Bishop’s Palace (Pécs) 701 Palais du Tau (Reims) 172
information Blenheim Palace 37, 82–3 Palau de la Generalitat (Valencia)
Opera Buckingham Palace (London) 13, 308, 309
Göteborgsoperan (Gothenborg) 612 56 Palazzo Altemps (Rome) 385
Kungliga Operan (Stockholm) 607 Château de Chambord 37, 179 Palazzo Beneventano (Syracuse) 429
Opéra Bastille (Paris) 153, 204, 205 Château de Chenonceau 178–9 Palazzo Bianco (Genoa) 408
Opera House (Oslo) 624 Château de Fontainebleau 171 Palazzo Chiericati (Vicenza) 413
Opernhaus (Hanover) 536 Château de Vaux-le-Vicomte 170–71 Palazzo del Comune (Ferrara) 424
Staatsoper (Vienna) 552, 553, 561 Château de Versailles 37, 168–9 Palazzo Corvaia (Taormina) 428
State Opera House (Budapest) 698 Christiansborg Palace Palazzo Ducale (Genoa) 408
see also Entertainment (Copenhagen) 640–41 Palazzo Ducale (Mantua) 412
Operetta, Austria 572, 573 Despots’ Palace (Mystrás) 468, 469 Palazzo Ducale (Urbino) 425
Oporto 355 Doge’s Palace (Venice) 17, 418–19 Palazzo Madama (Turin) 409
hotels 362 Drottningholm (Stockholm) 609 Palazzo Piccolomini (Siena) 391
restaurants 363 El Escorial 284 Palazzo Pitti (Florence) 407
tourist office 359 Grand Palais (Paris) 165 Palazzo dei Priori (Perugia) 389
Orangerie (Potsdam) 513 Gripsholms Slott (Mariefred) 610 Palazzo Pubblico (Siena) 391
Orban, Viktor 693 Hampton Court 71 Palazzo della Ragione (Padua) 413
Orcagna, Andrea 396 Hofburg (Innsbruck) 569 Palazzo della Ragione (Vicenza) 413
Öresund Bridge 613 Hofburg (Vienna) 17, 556, 558–60 Palazzo Reale (Genoa) 408
Original Sin (Michelangelo) 380 Hôtel d’Assézat (Toulouse) 189 Palazzo Reale (Naples) 426
Örkény, István 693 Italian Court (Kutná Hora) 684 Palazzo Reale (Palermo) 428
Orkney, hotels 106 Jagdschloss Grunewald (Berlin) 510 Palazzo Reale (Turin) 409
724-757_EW_Europe.indd 747 09/08/2016 12:11

748  GENER AL INDEX


Palaces (cont.) Papandreou, George 447 Parland, Alfred 658
Palazzo Rosso (Genoa) 408 Parc Nacional d’Aigüestortes 295 Parler, Peter 675, 684
Palazzo Schifanoia (Ferrara) 424 Parc Ornithologique du Pont-du-Gau Parliament (Budapest) 699
Palazzo Strozzi (Florence) 403 194 Parliament House (Edinburgh) 93
Palazzo Vecchio (Florence) 401 Paris 10, 142, 150–71 Parmigianino, Madonna of the Long
Paleis Het Loo 253 climate 198 Neck 406
Paleis Noordeinde (The Hague) 254 hotels 206 Parnell, Charles Stewart 123
Peterhof (St. Petersburg) 659 Latin Quarter: street-by-street Parnell Square (Dublin) 123
Petit Palais (Paris) 165 156–7 Parodi 408
Plaça del Rei (Barcelona) 299 map 150–51 Parque Nacional de Doñana 315
Praça do Comércio (Lisbon) 344 restaurants 209 Parthenon (Athens) 11, 34, 455, 456,
Real Alcázar (Seville) 319, 320 travel 200 458–9
Residenz (Munich) 14, 520–21 Two Days in Paris 15 Paseo del Prado (Madrid), street-by-
Residenz (Salzburg) 568 Parks and gardens street 276–7
Residenz (Würzburg) 516 Blenheim Palace 82 Passau 527
Residenzschloss (Dresden) 514 Boboli Gardens (Florence) 407 hotels 547
Residenzschloss (Münster) 536 Bois de Boulogne (Paris) 167 restaurants 550
Royal Palace (Budapest) 696 Botanic Gardens (Geneva) 580 Passeig de Gràcia (Barcelona) 12, 301
Royal Palace (Stockholm) 16, 606 Brühlsche Terrasse (Dresden) Passports 20
St. James’s Palace (London) 59 514–15 see also Practical information
Schloss Belvedere (Weimar) 515 Burggarten and Volksgarten Pátmos 475
Schloss Cecilienhof (Potsdam) 511 (Vienna) 560 Patrick, St. 112, 120, 126, 128
Schloss Charlottenburg (Berlin) 13, Château de Chenonceau 178 Pau 189
509 Château de Fontainebleau 171 hotels 208
Schloss Charlottenhof (Potsdam) Château de Vaux-le-Vicomte 171 Pauillac, hotels 208
512, 513 Château de Versailles 169 Paul, St. 446, 466
Schloss Eggenberg 566 Eden Project (St. Austell) 76 Paul III, Pope 383
Schloss Esterházy (Eisenstadt) 566 Eighteenth-century Gardens 83 Paul, Bruno 510
Schloss Hellbrunn 569 Englischer Garten (Munich) 524–5 Pavarotti, Luciano 62
Schloss Nymphenburg (Munich) Esplanadi (Helsinki) 655 Pearse, Patrick 122
14–15, 525 Farnese Gardens (Rome) 385 Pécs 701
Schloss Sanssouci (Potsdam) 500, Generalife (Granada) 310 hotels 704
511, 513 Herrenhäuser Gärten (Hanover) 536 restaurants 705
Schönbrunn Palace (Vienna) 565 Hortus Botanicus Amsterdam 247 Pedro I, King of Castile 320, 351
Schwarzenberg Palace (Prague) 676 Hortus Botanicus der Pedro IV, King of Portugal 342
Sternberg Palace (Prague) 677 Rijksuniversiteit Leiden 254 Peggy Guggenheim Collection
Stupinigi (near Turin) 409 Hyde Park (London) 62 (Venice) 17, 422
Taller del Moro (Toledo) 286 Jardim Botânico (Coimbra) 354 Pei, I.M. 159
Tsarskoe Selo (St. Petersburg) 659 Jardin du Luxembourg (Paris) Peisistratos 457
Wallenstein Palace (Prague) 16, 157 Pelayo 293
678–9 Jardin des Tuileries (Paris) 15, 161 Pélekas 471
Wilanów Palace (Warsaw) 709, 710, Jardins de Trocadéro (Paris) 164 Pélla, Ancient 464–5
715 Keukenhof Gardens 253 Peloponnese 367, 466–9
see also Castles Kew Gardens (London) 71 Penyal d’Ifach 309
Palacio del Gobierno de Navarra Kungsträdgården (Stockholm) 16, Penzance, hotels 105
(Pamplona) 294 607 Pepys, Samuel 59
Palacio de la Música y Congresos Łazienki Park (Warsaw) 715 Perdiccas I, King of Macedon 464
(Bilbao) 294 Parade Gardens (Bath) 79 Pergamonmuseum (Berlin) 12, 33, 504
Palacký, František 670 Parc d’Atraccions (Barcelona) 305 Perikles 34, 446, 454, 456
Palaiokastrítsa 471 Parc du Cinquantenaire (Brussels) Períssa 473
Palais des Festivals (Cannes) 196 222–3 Perrault, Claude 159
Palais de Justice (Paris) 152 Parc de la Villette (Paris) 166 Persius, Ludwig 513
Palais des Nations (Geneva) 580 Park Güell (Barcelona) 305 Personal security 21
Palatine (Rome) 16, 385 Park Sanssouci (Potsdam) 512–13 see also Practical information
Palau de la Generalitat (Barcelona) 298 Parque María Luisa (Seville) 321 Perugia 389
Palau Güell (Barcelona) 300 Parque del Retiro (Madrid) 281 Perugino 380, 389, 406, 424
Palermo 428 Phoenix Park (Dublin) 13, 123 Peruzzi, Baldassare 381
hotels 440 Planty (Krakow) 719 Pesne, Antoine 513
restaurants 443 Prater (Vienna) 17, 493, 564 Pest 698–9
Palio (Siena) 392 Regent’s Park (London) 62 hotels 704
Palko, Franz 678 Richmond Park (London) 71 restaurants 705
Palladio, Andrea 413, 423 Royal Garden (Prague) 15, 677 Petaloúdes 475
Palma de Mallorca 309 St. James’s Park (London) 13, 56 Peter, St. 307, 376–7
restaurants 335 Schloss Charlottenburg (Berlin) 509 Peter the Great 658–9
Palomino, Antonio 310 Schönbrunn Palace and Gardens Peter Harrison Planetarium (London) 70
Pamphilj family 382–3 (Vienna) 565 Peter and Paul Fortress (St.
Pamplona 294 South Gardens (Prague) 674 Petersburg) 659
restaurants 334 Tiergarten (Berlin) 503 Peterhof (St. Petersburg) 658, 659
Panteón Real (León) 289 Tivoli Gardens (Copenhagen) 598, Petit Palais (Paris) 165
Panthéon (Paris) 15, 157 635, 639 Petit Trianon (Versailles) 169
Pantheon (Rome) 16, 382 Vigelandsparken (Oslo) 625 Petőfi, Sándor 698
Pantokrátor, Mount 471 Villa Borghese (Rome) 387 Petrarch 371
Panxón 292 Wallenstein Palace and Garden Petri, Olaus 605
Papal Cross (Dublin) 123 678–9 Pfalzgrafenstein 531
Papandréou, Andréas 447 Wilanów Park (Warsaw) 715 Phaistos 477
724-757_EW_Europe.indd 748 14/07/16 10:21 am