(DK Eyewitness) Travel Guide - Europe

GREA T BRIT AIN  99


Cross serves the northeast and than rail travel. Journey times, Most companies will not rent to
Scotland, Liverpool Street serves however, are longer. Tickets can novice drivers, and set age limits
East Anglia, Waterloo and be purchased at major inter- (usually 21–70).
Paddington serve the West national airports, Victoria Coach
Country and Wales, and Victoria Station – the main terminal for
and Charing Cross serve the journeys into and out of London Ferry Services
South Coast. – and most large travel agents. About 20 car and passenger
First-class tickets for most The largest British coach services travel regularly across
journeys are available, and operator is National Express. the Channel and the North
roundtrip fares are less costly Another major operator is and Irish seas, the major ones
than two one-way tickets. There Scottish Citylink, with services including DFDS Seaways
are several types of fare for between London, the North, and P&O. Fares vary greatly
adults: Advance, purchased and Scotland. according to the season, time
ahead of travel and to be used of travel, and duration of stay.
on a specific train; Off-Peak, if Brittany Ferries run longer
you can travel at less busy times; Traveling by Road (often overnight) services
Anytime, which gives the most The most startling difference for between Plymouth, Poole, and
options, but is the most costly; many foreign motorists in Britain Portsmouth to the west coast
and Rovers and Rangers, which is that one drives on the left, of France, as well as one 20-hour
offers unlimited travel within a with corresponding adjustments service outside the winter
specified area, with a few at traffic circles and junctions. months between Plymouth
restrictions on when you travel. Distances are measured in miles. and Santander in Spain.
If you plan to do much Traffic density in towns and at
traveling by train around Britain, busy holiday times can cause Channel Tunnel
it is worth buying a rail pass. These long delays. Parking is a big
can be bought from BR agents issue in towns and cities, so it The Channel Tunnel offers a
abroad, such as CIE Tours Inter­ is worth taking advantage of nonstop rail link between Britain
national and Voyages­SNCF. park-and-ride schemes. and Europe. Eurostar services
Passes are available for families Renting a car in Britain can be (for foot passengers) run from
and young people. expensive. One of the most St. Pancras station in London to
competitive national companies Lille and Paris in France, and
is Autos Abroad, but small local Brussels in Belgium. Traveling
Long­distance Buses firms may undercut even these from London direct to Brussels
In Britain, long-distance express rates. International car rental or Paris takes 2–2½ hours.
buses and ones used for sight- companies such as Avis, Budget, The Eurotunnel service (also
seeing excursions are usually and Hertz also operate in Britain. known as the Shuttle) transports
referred to as coaches. Coach You need a valid driver’s license vehicles between Folkestone
services are generally cheaper and a passport when you rent. and Calais in about half an hour.
DIRECTORY
Airlines Thomas Cook Airlines Bus Companies Ferry Services
Tel 01733-224 330 (UK).
Air Canada National Express Brittany Ferries
Tel 0871-220 1111 (UK). Virgin Atlantic Tel 0871-781 8181. Tel 0330-159 7000.
Tel 1888-247 2262 (US Tel 0844-209 7777 (UK). ∑ nationalexpress.com ∑ brittany­ferries.
and Canada). Tel 1800-862 8621 (US). Scottish Citylink co.uk
Air New Zealand Tel 0871-266 3333. DFDS Seaways
Tel 0800-028 4149 (UK). Rail Travel ∑ citylink.co.uk Tel 0871-574 7235.
Tel 0800-737 000 (NZ). CIE Tours Car Rental ∑ dfdsseaways.co.uk
American Airlines International P&O
Tel 0844-369 9899 (UK). Tel 020-8638 0715 (UK). Autos Abroad Tel 08716-642 121.
Tel 800-433 7300 (US). Tel 0808-284 0014. ∑ poferries.com
National Rail ∑ autosabroad.com
British Airways Inquiries Avis
Tel 0844-493 0787 (UK). Tel 0845-748 49 50. Tel 0844-581 0147. Channel Tunnel
Tel 1800-452 1201 (US). ∑ avis.co.uk Services
Delta Air Lines Virgin Trains Budget Eurostar
Tel 020 7660 0767 (UK). Tel 0800-015 8123. Tel 0808-284 4444. Tel 08432-186 186.
Tel 0800 241 4141 (US). Voyages–SNCF ∑ budget.co.uk ∑ eurostar.com
Qantas Tel 0844-848 5848. Hertz Eurotunnel
Tel 0845-774 7767 (UK). ∑ uk.voyages­sncf. Tel 0843-309 3099. Tel 0844-335 3535.
Tel 13 13 13 (Australia). com ∑ hertz.co.uk ∑ eurotunnel.com





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100  BRIT AIN AND IRELAND

Shopping Burberry trench coats – are
found in outlets such as
While the West End of London is undeniably Britain’s most Burberry and Gieves and
exciting place to shop, many regional centers offer nearly as Hawkes, while Laura Ashley
wide a range of goods. Moreover, regional shopping can be is renowned for its floral-print
less stressful, less expensive, and remarkably varied, with craft dresses. For kilts and tartans,
the best place is Hector Russell,
studios, farm stores, street markets, and factory showrooms found in both Edinburgh
adding to the enjoyment of bargain-hunting. Britain is famous and Glasgow.
for its country clothing: wool, tartan, waxed cotton, and tweed London is the place for
are all popular, along with classic prints, such as those found designer fashions, however,
at Liberty or Laura Ashley. Other particularly British goods as many designers have
specialized outlets here.
include antiques, porcelain, glass, and local crafts.
Vivienne Westwood, doyenne
of the punkish avant-garde,
uses London as her British base.
Opening Hours of a household name, famed for
In general, you can assume its good-value clothing and Markets
most stores in Britain will open prepared food. The sizes of all
during the week from 9am or chain stores, and the range of Large towns and cities usually
10am until 5pm or 6pm. Hours stock they carry, will differ from have a central covered market
on Saturdays may be longer, region to region. that operates most weekdays,
and stores may have late-night The most famous of London’s selling everything from fresh
opening on Thursdays. Most many department stores is produce to pots and pans.
large stores in town centers now Harrods, with 300 departments, Many towns hold weekly
open on Sundays; longer 4,000 employees, and a spectacular markets in the main square.
opening hours are more Edwardian food hall. Nearby, The fashionable markets of
common as Christmas Harvey Nichols stocks designer London are Covent Garden,
approaches. In villages, the clothing and boasts the city’s Portobello Road, and Camden
stores may close at lunchtime most stylish food hall. Gourmets Lock, where you can find an
for an hour, or for one afternoon should make a pilgrimage to assortment of secondhand
each week. Market days vary Fortnum and Mason, which has clothes, handmade crafts, and
from town to town; some stocked high-quality food for antiques. Spitalfields is a
markets are held on Sundays. more than 300 years. Selfridges burgeoning East End market.
sells virtually everything, from Dating back to 1756, Borough
fine cashmeres to household Market sells quality fresh
Out-of-town gadgets. Liberty, the West End’s produce and gourmet foods.
Shopping Centers
last privately owned
These large complexes, similar department store, still sells the
to American malls, are rapidly hand-blocked silks and Oriental Food and Drink
increasing around Britain. goods for which it was famous Supermarkets are a good place
The advantages of car access when it first opened in 1875. to shop for food. The range and
and easy, cheap parking are quality of items in stock is usually
undeniable, and most centers are Clothing Stores excellent. Several large chains
accessible by public transportation. compete for market share and
The centers usually feature Once again, London has the as a result, prices are generally
clusters of popular upscale widest range, from haute couture lower than smaller stores. How-
chain stores, with many facilities to cheap and cheerful ready- ever, the smaller town-center
and services offered, such as made items. Shopping for stores, such as local bakeries,
nurseries, cafés, restaurants, clothing in the regions, however, greengrocers, and markets, may
and cinemas. can often be less tiring. Many give you a more interesting
towns that are popular with choice of fresh regional produce,
tourists – Oxford, Bath, and York, and a more personal service.
Department Stores
for instance – have Alcoholic beverages are
Certain big department stores independently owned clothing available in a huge variety of
are only found in London, but stores where you receive more stores around Britain, many
others have provincial branches. personal service. Or you could of them wine merchants, such
John Lewis, for example, has try one of the chain stores as the chain store Oddbins.
stores in 45 locations. It sells a found throughout the country For whisky, Scotland is the place
huge range of fabrics, clothing, for stylish, reasonably priced to go; Cadenheads and The
and household items, combining clothes, as well as younger and Whisky Shop both have a
quality service with good value. less-expensive fashions. wide variety of rare scotches.
Marks & Spencer, with branches Traditional British clothing – Luxury chocolates can be
throughout Britain, is even more waxed Barbour jackets and purchased at Hotel Chocolat,




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GREA T BRIT AIN  101

Gifts and Souvenirs Art and Antiques
Montezuma’s, and Charbonnel
et Walker. Most reputable large stores Britain’s long history means there
can arrange to ship expensive are many interesting artifacts to
items back home for you. If you be found. Many towns, such as
Books and Magazines want to buy things that you can Brighton, have dozens of antique
The capital is the hub of Britain’s carry in a suitcase, the choice shops. You might also like to visit
book trade, as many of the is wide. a jumble or flea market in the
country’s leading publishers are For slightly more unusual hope of picking up a bargain.
located within central London. presents, have a look in museum The country’s largest collec­
Charing Cross Road is the focal shops and at the range of items tion of original photographs for
point for those searching for available in National Trust and sale is at the Photographers’
new, antiquarian, and English Heritage properties. Gallery in London. For paintings
secondhand volumes, and it is Some chain stores are very and ceramics, the Mayfair
the home of Foyle’s, with its convenient places to pick up Gallery excels in belle epoque
massive stock now in a flagship attractive gifts and souvenirs. masters. In Scotland, The
store. Large branches of such The Body Shop sells natural Scottish Gallery has everything
chains as Waterstones and cosmetics and toiletries in from jewelry to pieces by well­
WH Smith (which also sells recyclable plastic packaging. known Scottish artists, while
magazines) are here, although For designer gifts, try the Conran the Glasgow Antiques &
they can also be found in most Shop in London, which sells Collectables Market is a
cities and major towns. stylish accessories for the home. treasure trove of antiques.
DIRECTORY
Department Stores Gieves & Hawkes Food and Drink WH Smith
1 Savile Row, London W1. 124 Holborn,
Fortnum and Mason Tel 020­7432 6403. Cadenheads London EC1.
181 Piccadilly, London One of several branches. 172 Canongate, Tel 020­7242 0535.
W1. Tel 020­7734 8040. Edinburgh EH8.
Hector Russell Tel 0131­556 5864. One of many branches.
Harrods 110 Buchanan St,
87–135 Brompton Rd, Glasgow G1. Charbonnel et Walker Gifts and
London SW1. Tel 0141­221 0217. The Royal Arcade, 28 Old Souvenirs
Tel 020­7730 1234. Bond Street, London W1.
Laura Ashley Tel 020­7491 0939. The Body Shop
Harvey Nichols 7–9 Harriet St, 374 Oxford St,
109–125 Knightsbridge, London SW1. Hotel Chocolat London W1.
London SW1. Tel 0871­223 1422. 34 Coney St, York YO1. Tel 020­7629 0483.
Tel 020­7235 5000. One of many branches. Tel 01904­635 304. One of many branches.
One of many branches.
Vivienne Westwood Montezuma’s Conran Shop
John Lewis 44 Conduit St, London W1. 15 Duke St, Brighton BN1. Michelin House, 81
69 St. James Centre, Tel 020­7439 1109. Tel 01273­324 979. Fulham Rd, London SW3.
Edinburgh EH1. Oddbins Tel 020­7589 7401.
Tel 0844­693 1740. Markets 7 Borough High St,
One of many branches. Art and Antiques
Borough Market London SE1 9SU.
Liberty 8 Southwark St, Tel 020­7407 5957. Glasgow Antiques &
210–220 Regent St, London SE1. One of many branches. Collectables Market
London W1. Open Mon–Sat. The Whisky Shop 233 London Rd,
Tel 0131­556 9121.
Camden Lock Unit L2/O2, Buchanan Glasgow G40.
Marks & Spencer Chalk Farm Rd, Galleries, 220 Buchanan Tel 0141­552 6989.
173 & 458 Oxford St, London NW1. Street, Glasgow G1. Mayfair Gallery
London W1. Open 10am–6pm daily. Tel 0141­331 0022. 39 South Audley St,
Tel 020­7935 7954. Covent Garden London W1.
Two of many branches. The Piazza, London WC2. Books and Tel 020­7491 3435.
Selfridges Open 9am–5pm daily. Magazines Photographers’
400 Oxford St, London Portobello Road Foyle’s Gallery
W1. Tel 0800­123 400. Portobello Rd, 107 Charing Cross Rd, 16–18 Ramilies St,
London W10. London WC2. London W1F.
Clothing Stores Open Mon–Sat; antiques Tel 020­7437 5660. Tel 020­7087 9300.
Burberry 8am–5:30pm Sat. Waterstones The Scottish Gallery
21–23 Bond Street, Spitalfields 128 Princes St, Edinburgh. 16 Dundas St,
London W1. Commercial St, London E1. Tel 0131­226 2666. Edinburgh EH3.
Tel 020­7980 8425. Open 9am–5pm daily. One of many branches. Tel 0131­558 1200.





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102  BRIT AIN AND IRELAND

Entertainment the very latest house-music
beats. Major pop-concert
London is the entertainment capital of Britain, with an array venues in the capital include
of world-class cultural and sporting events. Around the Wembley Arena and the
country, theaters, opera houses, concert halls, and other Eventim Apollo. The Royal
venues host a wide range of performing- and dramatic-arts Albert Hall hosts a range of
concerts, including the popular
programs. The summer months also see numerous open-air classical Proms. The Wigmore
arts festivals. Ticket prices are often less expensive outside the Hall, the Barbican Concert Hall,
capital. Britain offers hundreds of special-interest holidays for and the Royal Festival Hall are
those wanting to acquire a new skill or learn a new sport. also notable classical venues.
Walking, sailing, skiing, pony-trekking, and golfing holidays The Royal Opera House is a
world-class venue, and home
are popular. Soccer, rugby, and cricket are favorite sports.
to the Royal Opera. English
National Opera performs at the
London Coliseum. Classical
Entertainment Listings along Shaftesbury Avenue and open-air concerts are also held
For information about what’s on the Haymarket, and around at Marble Hill House.
in London, check the Evening Covent Garden and Charing A wide range of musical
Standard or the listings Cross Road. events is staged in towns and
magazine Time Out (published Outside the capital, at cities across Great Britain.
every Wednesday). All the Stratford-upon-Avon, the Royal Liverpool and Manchester have
quality broadsheet newspapers Shakespeare Theatre presents excellent orchestras and are
have detailed arts reviews and a year-round program of the also centers for modern music,
listings of cultural events in great bard’s works. The Bristol while Glyndebourne hosts an
London and throughout the Old Vic is the oldest working annual opera festival. Wales has
country. Local newspapers, theater in Britain. Good a very strong choral tradition,
libraries, and tourist offices can productions are staged at the while northern England is
supply details of regional events. Manchester Royal Exchange, renowned for booming brass
and the Traverse in Edinburgh. bands. Scotland, of course, is
Open-air theater is a feature famous for its bagpipers.
Tickets
of city life in the summer, with
Ticket availability varies from street entertainers in London’s
show to show. You may be able Covent Garden and other urban Dance
to buy a ticket at the door, centers. London’s Globe theater Classical ballet is performed
especially for a mid-week (see p66) stages performances of at the Royal Opera House,
matinee, but for the more Shakespeare’s plays, and open- home of the Royal Ballet, and
popular West End shows, seats air theaters at Regent’s Park the London Coliseum, where
may have to be reserved weeks and Holland Park also the English National Ballet
or even months in advance have a summer program. usually performs. The Place
through agencies – ubiquitous Perhaps the liveliest theatrical theatre, Sadler’s Wells, and
in central London – or by festival in Britain is the three- the Institute for Contemporary
telephone or in person at theater week Edinburgh Festival, held Art (ICA) are major venues for
box offices. Half-price tickets for in late summer. Many seaside contemporary dance.
some same-day shows can be resorts also have a summer Birmingham is home to
obtained from Leicester Square. theater season. the Birmingham Royal Ballet
Beware of counterfeit tickets and is the best place to see
offered by touts. performances outside London.
Music Traditional English Morris
A diverse musical repertoire dancing or the Scottish
Theater can be found in a variety of Highland fling and Celtic
Britain has an enduring venues across Great Britain. dancing (ceilidhs) can be
theatrical tradition dating back London, in particular, is one of enjoyed at local festivals.
to Shakespeare. London is the the world’s great centers for
place to enjoy theater at its music, and home to several
most varied and glam orous. world-class orchestras and Cinema
The West End alone has more chamber groups. As well as The latest movies can be seen
than 50 theaters. The Barbican classical concerts, there are in any large town. Premieres
and the National Theatre dozens of rock, reggae, soul, with international film stars
stage a mixture of classics and folk, country, jazz, and Latin are usually held at London’s
challenging new productions. concerts taking place on every Leicester Square cinemas.
The major commercial day of the week. There are also The capital now has a 3D
theaters, showing more popular numerous nightclubs that play movie theater, the BFI London
plays and musicals, are located everything from 70s disco to IMAX. Young children may see




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GREA T BRIT AIN  103

Outdoor Activities
films graded U (universal) or PG the West Country, Wales,
(parental guidance). Cinema Britain has an extensive network and Scotland. Soccer, rugby,
prices vary widely; some are less of long-distance footpaths and cricket, and horse-racing are
expensive at off-peak times, such shorter trail routes for walkers, all popular sports in Britain.
as Mondays or afternoons. For together with designated cycle Details of matches and
first nights of new releases it is routes and bridle paths. meetings can be found in
advisable to book in advance. There are 2,000 golf courses national newspapers. During
in Britain and many clubs the last week of June and
welcome visiting players (bring the first week of July, the
Special-Interest Vacations
confirmation of your handicap). Wimbledon tournament
Hundreds of options are Green fees vary widely. Tennis attracts many visitors to the
available, from any kind of courts can be found in every All England Lawn Tennis and
sport, to arts and crafts, such town and many hotels. Croquet Club.
as painting, calligraphy, and Sailing is popular in the Lake Among adventure-sport
jewelry-making, and a wide District, and the south-coast options are rock-climbing and
range of educational courses resorts have plenty of pleasure mountaineering, aeronautical
to suit all levels. craft. Boating on the Thames sports and gliding. Skiing and
Reservations can be made and on Britain’s network of other winter sports are possible
with organizers or through canals is a common summer in Scotland. Ice-skating rinks are
a travel agent. The English pursuit. Surfers and windsurfers located in major cities and
and Scottish Tourist Boards head for the West Country and horse-riding centers are found
have pamphlets on some South Wales. The best game throughout the country, with
of these activities. fishing (trout and salmon) is in pony-trekking in tourist areas.
DIRECTORY
Theater Glyndebourne Sadler’s Wells Manchester M20 2BB.
Lewes, East Sussex BN8. Rosebery Ave, Tel 0161-445 6111.
Barbican Tel 01273-812 321. London EC1. ∑ thebmc.co.uk
Silk St, London EC2. Tel 020-7863 8000. Canal & River Trust
Tel 020-7638 4141. London Coliseum First Floor North, Station
St. Martin’s Lane, The Place
Bristol Old Vic London WC2. 17 Duke’s Road, House, 500 Elder Gate,
King St Bristol BS1. Tel 020-7845 9300. London WC1. Milton Keynes MK9 1BB.
Tel 0303-040 4040.
Tel 0117-987 7877. Royal Albert Hall Tel 020-7121 1100. ∑ canalrivertrust.
Edinburgh Festival Kensington Gore, Cinema org.uk
The Hub, Castlehill, London SW7. English Golf Union
Edinburgh EH1. Tel 020-7589 8212 BFI London IMAX National Golf Centre,
Waterloo Rd, London SE1.
Tel 0131-473 2000. or 0845-401 5034. Tel 0330-333 7878. The Broadway, Woodhall
National Theatre Royal Festival Hall Spa, Lincs LN10.
Tel 01526-354 500.
Southbank Centre, Southbank Centre, Outdoor Activities ∑ englandgolf.org
London SE1. London SE1. All England Lawn
Tel 020-7452 3000. Tel 0844 875 0073. Tennis and Croquet Outward Bound
Hackthorpe Hall,
Royal Exchange Royal Opera House Club Hackthorpe,
Church Road, Wimbledon,
St. Anne’s Square, Bow St, London WC2. London SW19. Cumbria CA10 2HX.
Manchester M2. Tel 020-7304 4000. Tel 020-8944 1066. Tel 01931-740 000.
Tel 0161-833 9833. Wembley Arena ∑ outwardbound.
Empire Way, Wembley, Association of org.uk
Royal Shakespeare Middlesex HA9. Pleasure Craft Ski Club of Great
Theatre Tel 0844-815 0815 or Operators Britain
Stratford-upon-Avon 0844-824 4824. Marine House, 57–63 Church Road,
CV37. Tel 0844-800 1110. Thorpe Lea Rd, London SW19.
Wigmore Hall Egham, Surrey.
Traverse 36 Wigmore St, London Tel 01784-223 640. Tel 020-7410 2000.
Cambridge St, Edinburgh W1. Tel 020-7935 2141. ∑ skiclub.co.uk
EH1. Tel 0131-228 1404. British Activity
Dance Providers Association
Music Tel 01746-769 982.
ICA ∑ thebapa.org.uk
Eventim Apollo Nash House, Carlton British Mountain­
Queen Caroline St, House Terrace, The Mall, eering Council
London W6. London SW1. The Old Church, 177–179
Tel 020-8563 3800. Tel 020-7930 3647. Burton Rd, West Didsbury,



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104  GREA T BRIT AIN

Where to Stay

WEST END AND WESTMINSTER: Price Guide
London The Goring £££ Prices are based on one night’s stay in
Historic Map C4 high season for a standard double room,
inclusive of service charges and taxes.
DK Choice Beeston Place, SW1W 0JW £ under £100
Tel 020 7396 9000
THE CITY AND SOUTHWARK: ∑ thegoring.com ££ £100 to £200
Andaz Liverpool Street ££ A great English institution, with £££ over £200
Boutique Map F3 liveried doormen, gardens, and
40 Liverpool Street, EC2M 7QN crackling fires on winter days. DK Choice
Tel 020 7961 1234
∑ london.liverpoolstreet. WEST END AND WESTMINSTER: CHICHESTER:
andaz.com The Ritz £££ Ship Hotel ££
Several cool bars and Luxury Map C3 Boutique
restaurants, along with a hidden 150 Piccadilly, W1J 9BR North St, West Sussex,
Masonic temple await in this Tel 020 7493 8181 PO19 1NH
refurbished palatial old railroad ∑ theritzlondon.com Tel 01243 778 000
hotel. Bedrooms are minimalist A treat, with stunning Louis XVI- ∑ theshiphotel.net
but comfortable. The lobby has style bedrooms with all mod In a splendid listed building and
a room for guests to mingle cons and a gilded dining room. former home of Admiral Sir
over free refreshments. George Murray, who fought
alongside Nelson, individually
styled rooms burst with color,
REGENT’S PARK AND Southern England and there’s a cozy cottage.
BLOOMSBURY: The Arch ££
Boutique ARUNDEL: April Cottage £
50 Great Cumberland Place, W1H 7FD B&B HEVER: Hever Castle B&B ££
Tel 020 7724 4700 Crossbush Lane, West Sussex, B&B
∑ thearchlondon.com BN18 9PQ Hever Castle, Kent, TN8 7NG
Guests at these cleverly converted Tel 01903 885 401 Tel 01732 861 800
townhouses can also enjoy The ∑ april-cottage.co.uk ∑ hevercastle.co.uk
Arch’s bar and laid-back dining. This simple but charming Magnificent Edwardian rooms,
cottage located near the some with four-poster beds.
REGENT’S PARK AND wetlands serves good breakfasts. Includes free access to the castle.
BLOOMSBURY: Hart House ££
B&B Map C2 BRIGHTON: Hotel Una £££ LEWES: The Shelleys ££
51 Gloucester Place, W1U 8JF Boutique Historic
Tel 020 7935 2288 55–56 Regency Square, East Sussex, 135–136 High St., East Sussex, BN7 1XS
∑ harthouse.co.uk BN1 2FF Tel 01273 472 361
Spotless rooms and excellent Tel 01273 820 464 ∑ the-shelleys.co.uk
breakfast can be found at this ∑ hotel-una.co.uk Family-run 17th-century country-
award-winning townhouse B&B. Supremely elegant, wonderfully house hotel with luxurious rooms.
colorful rooms, plus cocktail bar.
SOUTH KENSINGTON AND PORTSMOUTH:
HYDE PARK: The Ampersand ££ CANTERBURY: Number 4 Hotel £
Boutique Map B4 Cathedral Lodge £ Boutique
10 Harrington Road, SW7 3ER Boutique 69 Festing Road, Southsea,
Tel 020 7589 5895 The Precincts, Kent, CT1 2EH Hampshire, PO4 0NQ
∑ ampersandhotel.com Tel 01227 865 350 Tel 02392 008 444
The whimsical interiors at this ∑ canterburycathedrallodge.org ∑ number4hotel.co.uk
hotel are inspired by music, Stylish rooms in the grounds Plush designer hotel close to
science, and nature. of Canterbury Cathedral. both the town and the seafront.
SALISBURY: St. Ann’s House £
B&B
33–34 St. Ann Street, Wiltshire, SP1 2DP
Tel 01722 335 657
∑ stannshouse.co.uk
This four-star Georgian B&B offers
great views of Salisbury Cathedral.
Wheelchair-accessible room.
SOUTHAMPTON:
Hotel Terravina ££
Modern
174 Woodlands Road, Woodlands,
Hampshire, SO40 7GL
Tel 02380 293 784
∑ hotelterravina.co.uk
On the edge of the New Forest.
The Goring, a luxurious family-run hotel in London’s Belgravia district Chic rooms feature rain showers.

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TR A VELERS ’ NEEDS  105

Elegant hotel run by the owner of
The West Country the renowned Oyster & Fish House.
and Wales PENZANCE:
The Artist Residence ££
ABERYSTWYTH: Gwesty Cymru £ B&B
Boutique 20 Chapel Street, Cornwall, TR18 4AW
19 Marine Terrace, Wales, SY23 2AZ Tel 01736 365 664
Tel 01970 612252 ∑ arthotelcornwall.co.uk
∑ gwestycymru.com Hip guesthouse in a mansion,
Modern twist on traditional Welsh with bright art on the walls.
seaside boarding house. Stylish
rooms with oak furniture, designer PORTMEIRION: Portmeirion £££
bathrooms, and sea views. Character
Gwynedd, Wales, LL48 6ER
DK Choice Tel 01766 770000
∑ portmeirion-village.com
BATH: The Royal Crescent £££ A fantasy village built by Clough
Luxury Williams-Ellis. Elegantly decorated
16 Royal Crescent, Somerset, rooms, some with sea views.
BA1 2LS
Tel 01225 823 333
∑ royalcrescent.co.uk
Step into Georgian times while Central England The luxurious Duke of York Master Suite at
enjoying modern amenities. The Royal Crescent, Bath
This opulent hotel has high- CAMBRIDGE: Varsity Hotel
ceilinged rooms, a candlelit spa, & Spa £££ SOUTHWOLD:
and a gourmet restaurant. Boutique Sutherland House ££
Thompson’s Lane, Cambridgeshire, Historic
CB5 8AQ 56 High Street, Suffolk, IP18 6DN
BEAUMARIS: Ye Olde Bull’s Head Tel 01223 306 030 Tel 01502 724 544
Inn and Townhouse ££ ∑ thevarsityhotel.co.uk ∑ sutherlandhouse.co.uk
Character Set amid the world-famous Impressive house dating back
Castle St, Isle of Anglesey, Wales, colleges, this splendid hotel to 1455. Room features include a
LL58 8AP exudes class throughout. sleigh bed and a slipper bath.
Tel 01248 810329 There is also an excellent fish
∑ bullsheadinn.co.uk GREAT MILTON: Le Manoir restaurant on site.
A 15th-century inn with modern aux Quat’Saisons £££
facilities and a prized restaurant. Luxury STRATFORD-UPON-AVON:
Church Road, Oxfordshire, OX44 7PD Twelfth Night Guesthouse £
BRISTOL: Brooks Guesthouse £ Tel 01844 278 881 B&B
B&B ∑ belmond.com 13 Evesham Place, Warwickshire,
St. Nicholas Street, BS1 1UB Opulent rooms with a lush garden, CV37 6HT
Tel 01179 300 066 plus a two Michelin-starred Tel 01789 414 595
∑ brooksguesthousebristol.com restaurant and a cookery school. ∑ twelfthnight.co.uk
This bright B&B behind St. Nick’s Stay in a refurbished Victorian
market offers doubles and triples. LOWESTOFT: Britten House £ villa with bright and colorful
Room with a view rooms. Not far from the Royal
CARDIFF: St David’s Hotel 21 Kirkley Cliff Road, Suffolk, NR33 0DB Shakespeare Company theaters.
& Spa ££ Tel 01502 573 950
Designer ∑ brittenhouse.co.uk
Havannah St, Wales, CF10 5SD This Victorian townhouse with
Tel 02920 454045 original features and sea views Northern England
∑ thestdavidshotel.com was the family home of the
One of the most luxurious hotels composer Benjamin Britten. ARMATHWAITE:
in Wales. State-of-the-art rooms Drybeck Farm £
have private decks overlooking OXFORD: Old Bank Hotel ££ Boutique
the bay. Luxury Drybeck Farm, Carlisle, Cumbria,
92–94 High Street, Oxfordshire, OX1 4BJ CA4 9ST
CLOVELLY: The Red Lion ££ Tel 01865 799 599 Tel 07854 523 012
Room with a view ∑ oldbank-hotel.co.uk ∑ drybeckfarm.co.uk
The Quay, Devon, EX39 5TF Some rooms in this converted Stay in a Mongolian yurt or a
Tel 01237 431 237 bank have views of the Bodleian gypsy caravan on a working farm.
∑ clovelly.co.uk Library and Radcliffe Camera. Drybeck combines the comforts
There are fabulous views from this of home with outdoor pleasures.
hotel’s nautically themed rooms. ROSS ON WYE: Norton House £
B&B BLACKPOOL: The Kenley £
LYME REGIS: Old Monmouth Road, Whitchurch, B&B
Hix Townhouse ££ Herefordshire, HR9 6DJ 29 St. Chads Road, Lancashire, FY1 6BP
B&B Tel 01600 890 046 Tel 01253 346 447
1 Pound Street, Dorset, DT7 3HZ ∑ norton-house.com ∑ kenleyhotel.co.uk
Tel 01297 442 499 Charming 16th-century building The Kenley is a boutique B&B
∑ hixtownhouse.co.uk with oak beams and cozy fires. with contemporary kitsch styling.
104-109_EW_Europe.indd 105 14/07/16 10:55 am

106  GREA T BRIT AIN

HALIFAX: Holdsworth House ££ ISLE OF COLL: Coll Hotel ££
Boutique Scotland Room with a view
Holdsworth Road, Holmfield, Ariangour, PA78 6SZ
West Yorkshire, HX2 9TG APPLECROSS: Applecross Inn £ Tel 01879 230 334
Tel 01422 240 024 Room with a view ∑ collhotel.com
∑ holdsworthhouse.co.uk Wester Ross, IV54 8LR Wonderfully appointed lochside
A Jacobean manor with some Tel 01520 744 262 hotel with six comfortable
period rooms. Breakfast is made ∑ applecross.uk.com en-suite guest rooms and epic
with locally sourced produce. Lovely inn with views of the Isle views. Superb seafood restaurant.
of Skye. Famous locally for the
LIVERPOOL: 30 James Street ££ quality of seafood and the large ISLE OF MULL: Highland
Luxury portions served up in its eatery. Cottage Hotel & Restaurant ££
30 James St, Lancashire, L2 7PQ Luxury
Tel 0151 236 9659 ARISAIG: Old Library 24 Breadalbane Street, Tobermory,
∑ rmstitanichotel.co.uk Lodge & Restaurant £ PA75 6PD
Gorgeous rooms in this Titanic- Historic Tel 01688 302 030
themed hotel – it was the former Inverness-shire, PH39 4NH ∑ highlandcottage.co.uk
HQ of the shipping company Tel 01687 450 651 David Currie is the perfect host,
that built the ill-fated vessel. ∑ oldlibrary.co.uk while his wife Jo cooks delicious
Cozy rooms in over 200-year-old Scottish fare. Choose between
MANCHESTER: Didsbury House £ stables at a waterfront location. six individually styled and
Luxury luxuriously furnished rooms.
Didsbury Park, Didsbury Village, EDINBURGH:
M20 5LJ Dalhousie Castle Hotel £££ ORKNEY: The Foveran £
Tel 0161 448 2200 Historic B&B
∑ eclectichotels.co.uk Bonnyrigg, EH19 3JB St. Ola, KW15 1SF
Renovated Victorian villa in Tel 01875 820 153 Tel 01856 872 389
a leafy suburb. Rooms are ∑ dalhousiecastle.co.uk ∑ foveranhotel.co.uk
modern and individually styled. This retreat offers an excellent Family-run hotel with wonderful
spa and restaurant. It also has views over Scapa Flow. There are
DK Choice grounds for falconry and archery. eight en-suite guest rooms, plus
a lovely restaurant where locally
WINDERMERE: FORT AUGUSTUS: The Lovat £ sourced seafood is the highlight.
Gilpin Lodge £££ Modern
Luxury Inverness-shire, PH32 4DU SHETLAND: Skeoverick £
Crook Road, Cumbria, LA23 3NE Tel 01456 490 000 B&B
Tel 01539 488 818 ∑ thelovat.com Brunatwatt, Walls, ZE2 9PJ
∑ thegilpin.co.uk High-quality accommodation on Tel 01595 809 349
This supremely stylish hotel the southern tip of Loch Ness. ∑ visitscotland.com
combines a warm welcome Welcoming and spacious B&B in
with contemporary comforts DK Choice a picturesque lochside location.
and haute cuisine. The garden Immaculate en-suite rooms and
suites make the most of the GLASGOW: Hotel du Vin at a lounge. Serves a great cooked
sylvan environs, while other One Devonshire Gardens £££ breakfast, with hen or duck eggs.
rooms are located in the Boutique
venerable old lodge itself. 1 Devonshire Gardens, G12 0UX ST. ANDREWS:
Tel 0141 378 0385 Old Course Hotel £££
∑ hotelduvin.com Luxury
YORK: Middlethorpe Hall £££ Housed in a quintet of Victorian Kingdom of Fife, KY16 9SP
Luxury townhouses, the Hotel du Vin is Tel 01334 474 371
Bishopthorpe Road, Yorkshire, Glasgow’s most famous hotel. ∑ oldcoursehotel.co.uk
YO23 2GB The emphasis is on opulence – One of the world’s best golf-
Tel 01904 641 241 from its spacious and unique resort hotels. Book a room
∑ middlethorpe.com rooms, to the whiskey bar and with an Old Course view,
Superb mansion built in 1699 restaurant. Service is impeccable. and enjoy the treat of the
amid gardens and parkland. Kohler Waters Spa.











One of the delightful cottages at Middlethorpe Hall, York
Key to Price Guide see page 104


104-109_EW_Europe.indd 106 14/07/16 10:57 am

TR A VELERS ’ NEEDS  107

Where to Eat and Drink

REGENT’S PARK AND Price Guide
BLOOMSBURY: Gem £ Prices include a three-course meal for
Turkish Map 4 F1 one, half a bottle of house wine, and all
265 Upper St, N1 2UQ charges, such as cover, service, and VAT.
Tel 020 7359 0405 £ under £35
Serving fragrant meze in a ££ £35 to £50
charming room decorated with £££ over £50
Kurdish farm implements. Week-
end breakfasts and brunches. Amid glossy decor, this Notting
Hill restaurant serves delicious
DK Choice tempura and sushi, plus a few
specials, such as pad thai.
REGENT’S PARK AND
BLOOMSBURY: SOUTH KENSINGTON AND
Golden Hind £ HYDE PARK:
British Map C2 Hunan ££
73 Marylebone Lane, W1U 2PN Chinese
Tel 020 7486 3644 Closed Sun 51 Pimlico Road, SW1W 8NE
The Art Nouveau surroundings of A welcoming no-frills place, Tel 020 7730 5712 Closed Sun
Bibendum, in South Kensington, London Golden Hind was established in Enjoy mouthwatering, tapas-size
1914. The home-made fishcakes portions of Taiwanese-style
with mushy peas are an enticing Chinese food – served fiery or
London alternative to their famous fish ’n’ mild, as preferred.
chips. Bring your own bottle.
THE CITY AND SOUTHWARK: SOUTH KENSINGTON AND
Lahore Kebab House £ HYDE PARK:
Pakistani SOUTH KENSINGTON AND Kensington Place ££
2–10 Umberston Street, E1 1PY HYDE PARK: Fish ’n’ chips
Tel 020 7481 9737 Buona Sera Jam £ 201 Kensington Church Street, W8 7LX
Spiced curries and kebabs will Italian Tel 020 7727 3184
set your taste buds tingling in 289 King’s Road, SW3 5EW This famous goldfish-bowl
this warehouse-style space. Tel 020 7352 8827 brasserie serves fantastic
Bring your own bottle. This lively trattoria is great for beer-battered fish and triple-
families. Climb miniature ladders cooked chips.
THE CITY AND SOUTHWARK: to reach the top-tier tables and
Aqua Shard £££ enjoy terrific pizzas and pastas. SOUTH KENSINGTON AND
British HYDE PARK: Le Metro
32 London Bridge Street, SE1 9SG SOUTH KENSINGTON AND at the Levin Hotel ££
Tel 020 3011 1256 HYDE PARK: British Map B4
Enjoy creative British cuisine on Café Mona Lisa £ 28 Basil Street, SW3 1AS
the 31st floor of the Shard. French Tel 020 7589 6286
417 King’s Road, SW10 0LR Genteel basement brasserie
THE CITY AND SOUTHWARK: Tel 020 7376 5447 serving delectable fare and
Hawksmoor £££ Popular café with friendly service featuring a good wine list.
Steak House and warm interiors. Delicious Afternoon tea is also available.
157 Commercial Street, E1 6BJ French fare, with daily specials.
Tel 020 7426 4850 SOUTH KENSINGTON AND
Succulent steaks (prepared from SOUTH KENSINGTON AND HYDE PARK: Rocca di Papa ££
Longhorn cattle and dry-aged) HYDE PARK: Jak’s £ Italian Map B4
are cooked on a charcoal grill. Mediterranean 73 Old Brompton Road, SW7 3JS
Hawks moor is a carnivore’s delight. 77 Walton Street, SW3 2HT Tel 020 7225 3413
Tel 020 7584 3441 Formerly part of Christie’s
DK Choice Savor a range of healthy, organic Auction House, this vibrant
dishes and tempting desserts in
establishment delivers upscale
THE CITY AND SOUTHWARK: a country-style back room. Italian fare such as tagliolini with
Oxo Tower Restaurant, white Cornish crab meat and
Bar and Brasserie £££ SOUTH KENSINGTON AND chili. Terrific wine list too.
European Map E3 HYDE PARK: The Abingdon ££
Oxo Tower Wharf, Barge House International SOUTH KENSINGTON AND
Street, SE1 9GY 54 Abingdon Road, W8 6AP HYDE PARK: Bibendum £££
Tel 020 7803 3888 Tel 020 7937 3339 French Map B4
The delectable food and A converted pub with a refined Michelin House, 81 Fulham Road,
international wine list at Oxo are feel and great brasserie-style food. SW3 6RD
complemented by breathtaking Opt for the comfortable booths. Tel 020 7581 5817
eighth-floor views: colorful by Michelin House’s Art Nouveau
day, glittering by night. Choose SOUTH KENSINGTON AND stained glass makes for a
between the relaxed brasserie HYDE PARK: E&O ££ stunning backdrop to this airy
and sophisticated restaurant. Asian Fusion first-floor dining room. Come for
Terrace seating in the summer. 14 Blenheim Crescent, W11 1NN superb seasonal French cuisine
Tel 020 7229 5454 and excellent service.
104-109_EW_Europe.indd 107 14/07/16 10:55 am

108  GREA T BRIT AIN

SOUTH KENSINGTON AND main modern art gallery. Ditch
HYDE PARK: Dinner by Southern England the art, and concentrate on the
Heston Blumenthal £££ fabulous food. Free snacks at
British Map B4 BRIGHTON: 24 St. Georges ££ 5:30pm on most Fridays.
Mandarin Oriental Hyde Park, British
66 Knightsbridge, SW1X 7LA 25 St. George’s Road, East Sussex, CARDIFF: Clink £
Tel 020 7201 3833 BN2 1ED British
London’s much hyped restaurant Tel 01273 626 060 Closed Sun & Mon HMP Cardiff, Knox Road, CF24 0UG
showcases this celebrity chef’s Local and seasonal produce is Tel 029 2092 3130
inspired take on British cuisine. used here to create a regularly Run as a charity, this restaurant is
changing menu of delicious food. staffed by prisoners and the food
SOUTH KENSINGTON AND is terrific. No alcohol served.
HYDE PARK: Restaurant CANTERBURY: Kathton House ££
Gordon Ramsay £££ European ST. IVES: Porthminster
French Map B4 6 High Street, Sturry, Kent, CT2 0BD Beach Café ££
68 Royal Hospital Road, Tel 01227 719 999 Closed Sun & Mon Café
SW3 4HP Upmarket modern restaurant. Porthminster Beach, Cornwall,
Tel 020 7352 4441 Closed Sat & Sun Try the crab ravioli and loin fillet TR26 2EB
Standards remain high at Gordon of Godmersham venison. Tel 01736 795 352
Ramsay’s three-Michelin-starred This award-winning beach café
shrine to haute cuisine. It is EMSWORTH: 36 on the Quay £££ serves local specialties with an
very expensive, but the menu British/European emphasis on seafood. Good
is truly exciting. 47 South Street, Hampshire, PO10 7EG kids’ and vegetarian menus.
Tel 01243 375 592 Closed Sun & Mon
WEST END AND WESTMINSTER: Overlooking the bay in a fishing DK Choice
Hard Rock Café ££ village, 36 on the Quay serves
American Map C4 excellent Michelin-starred cuisine. WRINGTON:
150 Old Park Lane, W1K 1QZ The Ethicurean £££
Tel 020 7514 1700 LEWES: Limetree Kitchen ££ Modern British
Savor American staples at this European Barley Wood Walled Garden,
famous eatery with a fascinating 14 Station Street, East Sussex, BN7 2DA Somerset, BS40 5SA
collection of rock memorabilia. Tel 01273 478 636 Closed Mon & Tue Tel 01934 863 713 Closed Mon
Open for breakfast through to The Ethicurean is an
WEST END AND WESTMINSTER: evening meals, the fare ranges outstanding café-restaurant
Sheekey ££ from eggs Benedict to sorbets. that serves dynamic and
Fish Map D3 experimental organic food.
28–32 St. Martin’s Court, WC2N 4AL WINCHESTER: Kyoto Kitchen £ Overlooking the Mendip Hills,
Tel 020 7240 2565 Japanese it is worth the trek, especially
This legendary seafood restaurant 70 Parchment Street, Hampshire, in the fall. Delicious coffee
and oyster bar is the perfect pre- SO23 8AT and sticky-toffee apple cake.
or post-theater venue. Tel 01962 890 895
Specializing in sushi and sashimi,
WEST END AND WESTMINSTER: Kyoto Kitchen provides a good
Murano £££ introduction to Japanese cuisine.
European Map C4 Great presentation and service. Central England
20 Queen Street, W1J 5PP
Tel 020 7495 1127 Closed Sun BIRMINGHAM: Purnell’s £££
Angela Hartnett’s Michelin-starred British
restaurant offers spectacular The West Country 55 Cornwall St., West Midlands, B3 2DH
modern European cuisine, with a and Wales Tel 01212 129 799 Closed Sun & Mon
bias towards Italian flavors. Michelin-starred traditional British
AVEBURY: The Circle Café £ fare, such as roast suckling pig.
WEST END AND WESTMINSTER: Café
Nobu £££ Near Marlborough, Wiltshire
Japanese Map C4 Tel 01672 539 250
Metropolitan Hotel, 19 Old Park Lane, Stop here for tea and homemade
W1K 1LB cakes after a visit to Stonehenge.
Tel 020 7447 4747
Enjoy beautifully prepared BATH: Acorn ££
sashimi, tempura, and other Vegetarian
contemporary Japanese dishes 2 North Parade Passage, Somerset,
while spotting celebrities. BA1 1NX
Tel 01225 446 059
WEST END AND WESTMINSTER: Innovative and interesting small
Veeraswamy £££ veggie dishes here include carrot
Indian Map C3 and cashew paté, and smoked
Victory House, 99 Regent Street, field mushroom.
W1B 4RS
Tel 020 7734 1401 BRISTOL: Arnolfini £
This London institution, opened Café
in 1926, offers contemporary 16 Narrow Quay, BS1 4QA
and classic Indian dishes in lush Tel 01179 172 300 Dinners enjoy freshly prepared Japanese
interiors that evoke a royal palace. Italian-inspired café in the city’s cuisine at Nobu in Mayfair, London
Key to Price Guide see page 107
104-109_EW_Europe.indd 108 14/07/16 10:55 am

TR A VELERS ’ NEEDS  109

CAMBRIDGE: The Oak Bistro ££
European
6 Lensfield Road, CB2 1EG
Tel 01223 323 361 Closed Sun &
bank hols
This bistro has a beautiful walled
garden to dine in when the
weather allows. Try the filet of
sea bream or the roasted lamb.
SOUTHWOLD:
Sutherland House £££
Seafood
56 High Street, Suffolk, IP18 6DN
Tel 01502 724 544 Closed Oct–Mar:
Mon
Sutherland House’s superb
dining room is the ideal setting
to enjoy dishes such as seared
scallops and pan-fried wild sea
bass. The menu also features The entrance to The Peat Inn, in Cupar, Scotland
excellent game dishes.
Ingredients are sourced locally. LEEDS: Salvo’s ££ such as leek, tarragon, and
Italian butternut-squash risotto. Try
STRATFORD-UPON-AVON: 107/115 Otley Rd., Headingley, LS6 3PX the tartlet made with creamy
The Opposition Bistro £ Tel 01132 755 017 Scottish Dunsyre blue cheese
International This innovative Italian restaurant and slow-dried tomatoes.
13 Sheep Street, Warwickshire, serves a contemporary menu in
CV37 6EF an informal ambience. It also has FINDHORN: The Bakehouse £
Tel 01789 269 980 Closed Sun a well-stocked salumeria (deli). Café
except bank hols 91–92 Forres, IV36 3YG
The Opposition Bistro’s timber- MANCHESTER: Wahaca £ Tel 01309 691 826
framed interior creates a great Mexican The Bakehouse is renowned
atmosphere. Come here to enjoy The Corn Exchange, M4 3TR for its organic produce. Meat
traditional bistro standards, such Tel 0161 413 7493 options include tasty pork and
as fish cakes and steak. Cool restaurant and takeaway venison burgers. Mouthwatering
serving beautifully cooked home baking, too.
Mexican street food.
FORT WILLIAM:
Northern England The Lime Tree ££
Modern Scottish
AMBLESIDE: Fellini’s £ Scotland The Old Manse, Achintore Road,
Vegetarian PH33 6RQ
Church Street, Cumbria, LA22 0BT CUPAR: The Peat Inn £££ Tel 01397 701 806
Tel 01539 432 487 Pubs Highly praised hotel-restaurant
This stylish modern vegetarian Near St. Andrews, Fife, KY15 5LH famous for its warm service and
place is attached to a small but Tel 01334 840 206 Closed Sun excellent food. Specialties
glamorous arthouse cinema. & Mon include pan-seared Glenfinnan
The menu at this Michelin- venison, mackerel, West Coast
BOLTON ABBEY: Devonshire starred rural retreat expertly crab, and smoked haddock.
Arms Brasserie £ utilizes local produce, such as
British/French salmon, langoustine, and beef. GLASGOW: Café Gandolfi £
Skipton, North Yorkshire, BD23 6AJ Diners get to savor dishes from Café
Tel 01756 710 710 the multicourse tasting menu. 64 Albion Street, G1 1NY
Enjoy British and French cuisine Tel 01415 526 813
in a coaching inn dating back DUNDEE: Jute Café Bar £ Café Gandolfi is a Glasgow
to 1753. Informal atmosphere. Café institution and part of the
Dundee Contemporary Arts, Gandolfi mini-empire. Come
DK Choice 152 Nethergate, DD1 4DY here for great breakfasts, light
Tel 01382 909 246
lunches, or substantial dinners.
CARTMEL: L’Enclume £££ This artistic café at the Dundee A relaxed dining experience.
British Contemporary Arts center serves
Cavendish Street, Cumbria, light lunches, as well as a three- TYNDRUM:
LA11 6PZ course evening meal. The menu The Real Food Café £
Tel 01539 536 362 includes dishes such as steak, as Café
An ancient building with rough well as chocolate torte. Perthshire, FK20 8RY
limewashed walls and low Tel 01838 400 235
beams is the rustic setting for EDINBURGH: David Bann £ The Real Food Café serves
some extraordinary food. Savor Vegetarian arguably the best fish ’n’ chips
local cuisine that is partly 56–58 St. Mary’s Street, EH1 1SX in the whole of Scotland. Diners
foraged and presented with Tel 01315 565 888 can enjoy a large or small fish
close attention to detail. A stylish fine-dining restaurant supper and sample excellent
with delicious vegetarian dishes, coffee as well as cakes.
104-109_EW_Europe.indd 109 14/07/16 10:55 am

110-111_EW_Europe.indd 110 14/07/16 10:44 am

BRIT AIN AND IRELAND  111

IRELAND


It is easy to see Ireland as a lush, green island dotted with quaint, thatched
cottages and friendly pubs filled with music, wit, and poetry. Despite the
contrasting reality of rapid economic growth and fundamental political change,
the tourist industry helps sustain this image of rural bliss, and the genuine good
humor of the people invariably makes Ireland a most welcoming place to visit.


History and religion have created two 2010 was paid off within three years. The
communities in Ireland, with the Protestant economy is slowly recovering. Agriculture
majority in the North determined to remain remains a mainstay, with dairy cattle
part of the United Kingdom. In the latter feeding on rich meadowlands and sheep
half of the 20th century, violent attacks in grazing on the poorer upland pastures.
Northern Ireland tarnished the world’s view The traditional Irish talent for breeding
of the country, but in 1998 the Good Friday and training racehorses is undiminished.
Agreement brought new hopes for peace. Tourism also thrives, with more than 6.5
Despite the Troubles of the past, the Irish million visitors to the Republic each year.
retain a positive attitude. The Republic of Dublin is one of Europe’s hotspots for a
Ireland, formerly one of the poorer countries weekend break, as well as being a tech
of the European Union, became one of its hub, with many media companies having
success stories during the economic boom their headquarters there.
known as the “Celtic Tiger” years. Between
1990 and 2007, the economy saw growth History
of between 7 and 11 percent annually. But In the past, Ireland’s isolation cut it off
in 2008, it became evident that the inflated from many of the major events of
economy was built on an unsustainable European history. Roman legions never
property bubble. The worldwide recession invaded, and the country’s early history
did not spare Ireland, but an €85 billion is shrouded in myths of warring gods
bailout provided by the EU and IMF in and heroic High Kings.


























Dingle, a picturesque fishing harbor in southwest Ireland
O’Brien’s Tower, on top of the majestic Cliffs of Moher, in County Clare, Ireland



110-111_EW_Europe.indd 111 14/07/16 10:44 am

112  BRIT AIN AND IRELAND

Direct English control was usually limited
to the “Pale,” the well-defended area
around Dublin. Matters changed when, in
1532, Henry VIII broke with the Catholic
church. Ireland became a battleground
between Irish Catholics and English
armies dispatched to crush resistance.
Irish lands were confiscated and granted
to Protestants from England and Scotland.
England’s conquest was completed with
O’Connell Street in Dublin just after the Easter Rising of 1916 Old Bushmills
William of Orange’s victory over James II Distillery Giant’s
The bellicose Celtic tribes were quick to in 1690. During the English Ascendancy, Londonderry Causeway
Troon,
embrace Christianity in the 5th century repressive Penal Laws denied Irish Dunglow Letterkenny (Derry) Coleraine A2 Cairnryan
N13
AD. Until the Viking invasions of the 9th Catholics the most basic freedoms, but N56 A5 A6 A29 A26
century, Ireland enjoyed an era of relative opposition to English rule was never Donegal American NORTHERN M2 Larne
Ulster-
Lough Neagh
peace. Huge monasteries were founded, totally quashed. Rossnowlagh Folk Park Omagh
where scholarship and the arts flourished. The Famine of 1845–8 was the bleakest A32 A4 IRELAND Belfast Liverpool,
The Vikings never succeeded in gaining period of Irish history. More than two Belmullet Sligo Lower Lough Erne Enniskillen M1 A1 Hillsborough Douglas
control of the island, but in 1169, the million either died or were forced to N59 N16 Armagh Portaferry
English arrived with greater ambitions. emigrate. A campaign for Home Rule Lough Conn N26 N17 Carrick- Newry Newcastle
N4 on-Shannon N3
Many Irish chiefs submitted to Henry II of gathered strength, but it took the war of Knock N5 Cavan N2 Dundalk
England, and his Anglo-Norman knights 1919–21 to force the issue. The Treaty of Westport REPUBLIC Monasterboice IRISH
Lough
carved out large fiefdoms for themselves. 1921 divided the island in two. The South Letterfrack Mask Roscommon Lough N55 Kells Drogheda M1 SEA
became the Irish Free State, gaining full Clifden N59 Lough N63 Ree OF Mullingar Newgrange
N17
KEY DATES IN IRISH HISTORY independence in 1937. The Catholic Connemara Corrib Athlone M6 M4 M3 M1 N2 Liverpool,
minority in Northern Ireland suffered Galway Clonmacnoise Castletown DUBLIN Holyhead
House
8th century BC Humans first inhabit Ireland ATLANTIC M6 Clonfert M7
IRELAND
600 BC Arrival of Celts from Europe and Britain under Protestant rule, and in the late OCEAN Aran N67 Lough Port Kildare Bray Dún Laoghaire
AD 432 St. Patrick brings Christianity to Ireland 1960s began to stage civil-rights protests. Islands Ennistimon Shannon Derg Laoise M9
M18
Glendalough
Ennis
795 First Viking invasion The situation quickly got out of hand. Kilkee N68 M7 Carlow Wicklow
999 Viking king of Dublin defeated by Irish High King, The British sent in troops and acts of Shannon Bunratty Castle M8 N77 Arklow
Limerick
Brian Boru terrorism and sectarian violence took Adare N24 Kilkenny N11
1169 Anglo-Norman invasion; Henry II of England the place of reasoned dialogue. N69 Tipperary Cashel New
proclaims himself overlord of Ireland Dingle Tralee N21 N20 Cahir N24 M9 Ross Slaney
1541 Henry VIII declared King of Ireland Language and Culture Killarney Mallow Waterford Wexford Pembroke,
1690 William of Orange defeats James II at Battle of Ireland was a Gaelic-speaking nation until Killorglin N72 M8 Fermoy N25 Rosslare Fishguard
the Boyne the 16th century, when English rule sent Caherciveen Kenmare Youghal
N22
1695 Penal Laws restrict civil rights of Catholics the language into decline. The Republic Sneem Bantry Cork Midleton
1801 Act of Union with Britain today is officially bilingual, and 35 percent N71 Cherbourg,
Roscoff
1828 Catholic Emancipation Act of adults claim to know some Gaelic. Skull Kinsale
1845–8 Potato Famine leaves one million dead Many speak it fluently, but perhaps only Skibbereen Roscoff
1916 Easter Rising
1921 Anglo-Irish treaty divides Ireland into the Irish 3 percent use it regularly. Some degree of
Free State and Northern Ireland knowledge is needed for careers in the
1937 The Irish Free State becomes entirely public sector. Irish culture, on the other
independent of Britain and is renamed Eire hand, is in no danger of being eroded.
1969 British troops sent to Northern Ireland The people have a genuine love of
1998 Good Friday Agreement sets out framework for legends, literature, and songs, and festivals
self-government in Northern Ireland play an important part in community life.
2005 Provisional IRA announces full ceasefire Traditional and modern music flourishes,
2008 Crisis in the banking system ends boom whether at well-attended concerts or
2013 An €85 bn bailout by the EU and IMF is paid off
impromptu sessions in the local pub.
112-113_EW_Europe.indd 112 14/07/16 10:44 am

IRELAND  113

Exploring Ireland

Dublin is Ireland’s chief attraction, a small, friendly
capital with most of its sights and lively nightlife
concentrated in the center. Elsewhere the pace
of life is less hectic and the country’s great appeal
is in its landscape: from the lush green pastures,
bogs, and lakes of the center of the island to
dramatic mountains and bleak, rocky
headlands in the southwest. Touring Jaunting car for hire in Killarney
by car is the most convenient way
to explore Ireland, which has a Old Bushmills
Distillery
good-quality road network on Londonderry Giant’s
Causeway
both sides of the border. Dunglow (Derry) Coleraine Cairnryan
Troon,
Letterkenny N13 A26 A2
N56 A5 A6 A29
Donegal Ulster- NORTHERN Larne
American Lough Neagh M2
Rossnowlagh Folk Park Omagh
A32 IRELAND Belfast Liverpool,
Lower Lough Erne A4 M1 Douglas
Belmullet Sligo Enniskillen A1 Hillsborough
N16 Armagh
N59 Portaferry
N17 Newcastle
Lough Conn N26 Newry
Carrick- N3
N4 on-Shannon
Cavan Dundalk
N5
Knock N2
Westport REPUBLIC IRISH
Lough Monasterboice
Letterfrack Mask Lough N55 Kells M1 SEA
Roscommon Ree Drogheda
Clifden N59 Newgrange
N17
Lough N63 OF Mullingar
Connemara Corrib Athlone M3 N2
M4 Liverpool,
Galway M6 Castletown M1 Holyhead
ATLANTIC M6 Clonfert Clonmacnoise House DUBLIN
IRELAND
M7
OCEAN Aran N67 Port Kildare Bray Dún Laoghaire
Islands Ennistimon Lough Laoise M9
Derg
M18 Shannon
Ennis M7 Glendalough Wicklow
Kilkee N68 Bunratty Castle Carlow Arklow
Shannon M8 N77
Limerick
Adare N24 Kilkenny N11
N69 Tipperary Cashel New
Dingle Tralee N21 N20 Cahir N24 M9 Ross Slaney
Killarney Mallow Waterford Wexford Pembroke,
Killorglin N72 Fermoy N25 Rosslare Fishguard
M8
Caherciveen Kenmare Youghal
Cork
N22
Sneem Bantry Midleton
N71 Cherbourg,
Roscoff
Skull Kinsale
Skibbereen Roscoff 0 km 35
0 miles 35
Sights at a Glance Key
1 Dublin pp114–23 q Dingle Highway
2 Castletown House w Bunratty Castle Highway under construction
3 Newgrange e Galway
4 Glendalough r Connemara Major road
5 Kilkenny t Aran Islands Railroad
6 Waterford y Belfast International border
7 Cashel u Giant’s Causeway
8 Cork i Old Bushmills Distillery
9 Kinsale o Ulster-American Folk Park
0 Killarney
For keys to symbols see back flap
112-113_EW_Europe.indd 113 14/07/16 10:44 am

114  BRIT AIN AND IRELAND


1 Dublin DORSET STREET Dublin Writers H I L L Swords
UPPER
Museum
Although it is a fairly small city, Ireland’s capital is Municipal Gallery R U T L A N D NORTH GREAT GEORGE’S STREET S T LANE NTH GARDINER M3 M2 Dublin N1 Malahide Irish
Hugh Lane
TEMPLE ST MID
famous for its many pubs, and its rich cultural heritage of Modern Art James Joyce R E E T N 2 Airport M1 Sea
Cultural
Centre
GARDEN OF P L A C E Finglas
attracts millions of visitors each year. The Liffey River REMEMBRANCE PARNELL PL S T R E E T G A R D I N E R N3 M50
RUTLAND
GRANBY ROW
runs through the middle of the city, and was the S T R E E T GRANBY LN PARNELL SQUARE EAST PLACE BRITAI STRRET NORTH Royal Canal Glasnevin
Gate
original source of its prosperity. The first harbor in PARNELL SQUARE Theatre P A R N E L L STRONG’S PL Liffey Marino Howth
CUMBERLAND
COURT
Dublin was established in the early 9th century, when D O M I N I C K DOMINICK PLACE SEAN MAC DERMOTT ST UP S T R E E T Lucan N4 Dublin
Douglas,
Vikings founded one of their largest settlements GRANBY PL WEST Rotunda CATHAL BRUGHA Clondalkin Kilmainham Ballsbridge Dublin Holyhead
Grand Canal
Hospital
STREET
outside Scandinavia on the site of the present city. B O L T O N S T R E E T N7 M50 Rathmines Bay
Since then, it has suffered wars and conflict over many KING'S INNS STREET L O W E R M O O R E O’CONNELL ST UPPER St Mary's L O W E R N81 Blackrock Holyhead
centuries. In the 20th century, Dublin established O’RAHILLY T H O M A S ' S L A N E M A R L B O R O U G H Pro-Cathedral Dundrum Dun
DOMINICK LN
Laoghaire
PARADE
its own identity and today it is NORTH L O F T U S L A N E S T R E E T M O O R E CATHEDRAL ST S T R E E T M50 N11
a thriving, modern city, rich in KING STREET C A P EL L A N E T A L B O T BERESFORD Wicklow

history and proud of its past. STIRRUP GREEN STREET RYDER'S P A R N E L L C H A P E L L A N E SAMPSON’S S T R E E T HENRY PL EARL ST NTH S T R E E T LANE STORE STREET Busáras Connolly
ROW
Station
LANE
LA
Dublin and its surrounding T E NEW ST NTH B E R E S F O R D NORTH ANNE STREET BALL’S STREET S T R E E T W O L F E J E R V I S H E N R Y S T R E E T EARL PLACE
LA
General
county have a population LITTLE BRITAIN ST JERVIS LANE Post Office SACKVILLE PL L O W E R BERESFORD PL
of just over 1.1 million. S T R E CHURCH TCE S T CUCKOO LANE ANGLESEA ROW UP T O N E S T R E E T P RI N C E ’ S S T R E E T N O RT H S T R E E T
FATHER
SQUARE HILL GEORGE’S HALSTON GREEN ST LITTLE M A R Y LIFFEY ST UPPER O’CONNELL ST LOWER A B B E Y Abbey ABBEY STREET OLD CUSTOM HOUSE QUAY
Theatre
CHURCH A B B E Y S T R E E T M I D D L E Q U A Y
MATHEW R E E T
Custom House MEMORIAL RD
AVENUE W L A N E MARY ST LITTLE S T R E E T S T R E HARBOUR CT Butt
H M A R Y ' S St JERVIS LANE LR WOLFE E T WILLIAM’S ROW E D E N Bridge Memorial
Bridge
TONE
C Mary's C A P E L PARK U P P E R L O T T S L i f f e y
R ST MICHAN’S ST A R R A N LANE MEETINGHOUSE Abbey S T R E E T LANE LITTON Q U A Y GEORGE’S QUAY
U GREEK STREET A B B E Y BYRNE’S LANE W A L K B U R G H
O'Connell
Sights at a Glance C H S T R E E T MARY'S ABBEY S T R E E T G R E A T ST LOWER LIFFEY B A C H E L O R S Bridge P O O L B E G S T R E E T STREET S T R E E T M O S S
1 Trinity College C H A N C E R Y CHARLES ORMOND S T R E E T S T R E E T S T R A N D ROW SWIFT’S Ha'penny Q U A Y D'OLIER ST HAWKINS STREET Tara
Four
2 Merrion Square Courts CHANCERY SQUARE STRAND ST LITTLE O R M O N D Q U A Y L O W E R Bridge A S T O N ASTON PL ADAIR PRICE'S LN WESTMORELAND ST T A R A LUKE Street S T R E E T
Millenium
LANE
3 National Gallery of Ireland Heuston PL ST W Q U A Y U P P E R Grattan Bridge ROW ASDILL’S ROW BEDFORD F L E E T S T R E E T TOWNSEND STREET
E A S T
I N N S
4 National Museum Station Father Mathew Q U A Y O R M O N D L i f f e y Bridge W E L L I N G T O N Q U A Y BAR SPRING GDN LA SHAW ST
Bridge
of Ireland – Archaeology M E R C H A N T ’ S O'Donovan E S S E X Q U A Y STREET TEMPLE CROWN ALLEY P E A R S E
Rossa Bridge
5 Grafton Street Q U A Y W O O D Q U AY EXCHANGE ST LOWER PARLIAMENT ST ESSEX ST E SYCAMORE ST A ST MEETING CURVED TEMPLE LANE SOUTH F O W N E S S T E E T COPE STEET ANGLESEA STREET FOSTER PL Bank of COLLEGE STREET S T R E E T
HOUSE
Ireland
SQUARE
6 Temple Bar BRIDGE ST LOWER STREET WINETAVERN FISHAMBLE ST ESSEX STREET ST UP EXCHANGE CRANE LA EUSTACE ST COLLEGE
WEST
7 Dublin Castle C O O K S T R E E T COPPER ALLEY D A M E S T R E E ST T GREEN
St Audoen's
CORK HILL
8 St. Patrick’s Cathedral BRIDGE ST Church SCHOOLHOUSE LANE W JOHN’S LORD EDWARD ST City Hall D A M E L A N E ITY ST COLLEGE LANE
TRIN
9 Christ Church Cathedral UPPER ST MICHAEL’S HILL LA EAST C A S T L E S T ST A NDREW’S SUFFOLK STREET COLLEGE
0 Dublinia and the Viking HIGH STREET CHRIST CH U R C H PL EXCHEQUER WICKLOW ST N A S S A U PARK
World L A M B B A C K St Werburgh's CASTLE STEPS SOUTH GREAT GEORGE’S ST DRURY STREET ST Powerscourt
q The Liffey A L L E Y L A Church WERBURGH ST CASTLE Townhouse L A N E S T R E E T
w O’Connell Street J DILLON N E SHIP ST LITTLE FADE ST MARKET C L A R E N D O N S T R E E T Café S T R E E T D U K E S T R E E T S T R E E T DAWSON LANE FREDERICK ST SOUTH LEINSTER ST STH LINCOLN PLACE
STREET
e Parnell Square F R A N C I S DEAN SWIFT SQ NICH OLAS STREET R O S S R O A D JOHNSON CT LEMON U K E SETANTA PLACE CLARE MERRION ST LR FENIAN STREET
THOMAS DAVIS B R I D E R O A D SHIP STREET GREAT Bewley's STREET D National
ST STH
Greater Dublin (see inset map) JOHN DILLON STREET CHANCERY LANE STEPHEN ST UP STEPHEN ST LOWER Oriental ANNE ST SOUTH M O L E S W S T R E E T Library CLARE LA STREET D E N Z I L L E
PLACE
r Guinness Storehouse B R I D E L A N E LONGFORD S T R E E T L A N E ROW ANNE’S LANE St Ann's MOLESWORTH O R T H S T R E E T Leinster L A N E
Church
t Phoenix Park HANOVER LANE ST GREAT D I G G E S CLARENDON CHATHAM ST G R AF T O N SCHOOLHOUSE LA House MERRION SQ W MERRION SQUARE NORTH H O L L E S S T
STREET BULL ALLEY ST G O L D E N WHITEF RI AR ST Church BOW LANE EAST K I N G S T R E E T S O U T H D A W S O N Mansion K I L D A R E Museum of
ST PATRICK'S
Whitefriar St
National
Carmelite
PARK
House
WOOD ST
Ireland–
S T R E E T
PATRICK S T R E E T WHITEFRIAR Y O R K GLOVER' S Shelbourne Natural
History
Hotel
PLACE
Marsh's P E T E R S T R E E T A U N G I E R ALLEY MERRION ST UP MERRION SQUARE SOUTH MERRION SQ E
DEAN ST
Library P E T E R R O W AUNGIER PL S T R E E T Government F I T Z W I L L I A M
Buildings
S T PAT R I C K ’S C L O S E
S T R E E T ST STEPHEN’S GREEN WEST ST STEPHEN’S GREEN NORTH BAGGOT RATH PLACE
B I S H O P DIGGES ST MERCER STREET UPPER ST STEPHEN’S MERRION ROW
UP HUME STREET L A N E ST LR
K E V I N S T R E E T U P P E R
HILL
REDMOND'S
Key K E V I N S T R E E T L O WE R CUFFE STREET GREEN ST STEPHEN’S GREEN EAST E L Y P L A C E BAGGOT ST FITZWILLIAM
Sight / Place of interest STOKES PL
Newman
Pedestrian street House
ST STEPHEN’S GREEN SOUTH
Iveagh
House LEESON LANE
114-115_EW_Europe.indd 114 14/07/16 2:19 pm

DUBLIN  115


DORSET STREET UPPER Dublin Writers H I L L LANE NTH GARDINER Greater Dublin Swords Malahide
Museum
M2
N1
Hugh Lane
Dublin
Municipal Gallery
Cultural
Sea
of Modern Art R U T L A N D NORTH GREAT GEORGE’S STREET Centre S T TEMPLE ST MID M3 N 2 Airport M1 Irish
GARDEN OF P L A C E S T R E E T N3 Finglas
James Joyce R E E T
S T R E E T GRANBY LN Theatre RUTLAND PLACE PARNELL PL BRITAI PL STRRET NORTH G A R D I N E R Royal Canal Liffey M50 Glasnevin Marino Howth
REMEMBRANCE
GRANBY ROW
P A R N E L L
Gate
CUMBERLAND
PARNELL SQUARE EAST
STRONG’S
COURT
SEAN MAC DERMOTT ST UP S T R E E T Lucan N4 Kilmainham Dublin
PARNELL SQUARE
B O L T O N DOMINICK LN GRANBY PL WEST Hospital O’CONNELL ST UPPER STREET L O W E R Clondalkin M50 Rathmines Ballsbridge Blackrock Holyhead
Rotunda
CATHAL BRUGHA
Douglas,
Grand Canal
D O M I N I C K
Dublin
DOMINICK PLACE
Bay
N7
S T R E E T
Holyhead
O’RAHILLY
M O O R E
L O W E R
Pro-Cathedral
Laoghaire
Dundrum
NORTH L O F T U S L A N E S T R E E T M O O R E PARADE CATHEDRAL ST St Mary's S T R E E T 0 km N81 5 M50 N11 Dun
KING'S INNS STREET
T H O M A S ' S L A N E
M A R L B O R O U G H
STREET C A P EL L A N E T A L B O T 0 miles 5 Wicklow
KING BERESFORD
RYDER'S P A R N E L L HENRY PL EARL ST NTH
STIRRUP STREET GREEN STREET ROW C H A P E L L A N E SAMPSON’S S T R E E T S T R E E T S T R E E T LANE STORE STREET Busáras Connolly Key
LANE
Station
LA
T B E R E S F O R D NORTH ANNE STREET BALL’S EARL PLACE
LA
E NEW ST NTH LITTLE BRITAIN ST S T R E E T JERVIS LANE W O L F E J E R V I S H E N R Y PL BERESFORD PL Area of main map
General
S T R E CHURCH TCE CUCKOO LANE T O N E S T R E E T Post Office SACKVILLE S T R E E T L O W E R
P RI N C E ’ S S T R E E T N O RT H
FATHER
SQUARE S T HILL GEORGE’S HALSTON GREEN ST LITTLE ANGLESEA ROW UP M A R Y LIFFEY ST UPPER O’CONNELL ST LOWER A B B E Y Abbey ABBEY STREET OLD CUSTOM HOUSE QUAY
Theatre
CHURCH A B B E Y S T R E E T M I D D L E Q U A Y Getting Around
MATHEW R E E T
Custom House MEMORIAL RD
AVENUE W L A N E MARY ST LITTLE S T R E E T S T R E HARBOUR CT Butt Memorial
M A R Y ' S
H St JERVIS LANE LR WOLFE E T WILLIAM’S ROW E D E N Bridge Bridge Dublin is fairly easy to get around.
TONE
C Mary's C A P E L PARK U P P E R L O T T S L i f f e y The suburban train service DART
R ST MICHAN’S ST A R R A N LANE MEETINGHOUSE Abbey S T R E E T LANE LITTON Q U A Y GEORGE’S QUAY
U GREEK STREET A B B E Y BYRNE’S LANE W A L K B U R G H serves three stations in the city
H MARY'S ABBEY ST LOWER LIFFEY O'Connell S T R E E T STREET M O S S
Bridge
C S T R E E T G R E A T B A C H E L O R S P O O L B E G S T R E E T center – Connolly, Tara Street, and
C H A N C E R Y S T R E E T S T R E E T Q U A Y HAWKINS STREET Tara Pearse – and runs out along the
ORMOND S T R E E T S T R A N D ROW SWIFT’S Ha'penny D'OLIER ST
Four CHARLES LITTLE O R M O N D Q U A Y L O W E R Bridge coast to the north and south of
Courts CHANCERY STRAND ST Millenium A S T O N ASTON PL ADAIR PRICE'S LN T A R A LUKE Street S T R E E T
SQUARE E A S T U P P E R Bridge ROW LANE WESTMORELAND ST S T R E E T the city. Bus services run every
ST
Heuston I N N S PL W Q U A Y Grattan W E L L I N G T O N Q U A Y ROW ASDILL’S BEDFORD F L E E T TOWNSEND STREET 15–40 minutes and the Nitelink
Bridge
Station Father Mathew Q U A Y O R M O N D L i f f e y BAR SPRING GDN LA SHAW ST
Bridge O'Donovan STREET TEMPLE CROWN ALLEY P E A R S E departs every hour or two on
Rossa Bridge E S S E X Q U A Y ESSEX ST E MEETING CURVED COPE STEET ANGLESEA STREET Bank of COLLEGE STREET S T R E E T selected routes on Friday and
W O O D Q U AY
BRIDGE ST LOWER STREET WINETAVERN FISHAMBLE ST EXCHANGE ST LOWER EXCHANGE PARLIAMENT ST CRANE LA SYCAMORE ST A ST SQUARE EUSTACE ST TEMPLE LANE SOUTH F O W N E S S T E E T FOSTER PL COLLEGE Saturday nights, midnight–4am.
M E R C H A N T ’ S
Q U A Y
HOUSE
Ireland
ESSEX STREET
WEST
The Luas Light Rail network
ST UP
C O O K S T R E E T COPPER ALLEY D A M E S T R E E ST T GREEN travels between the city center
St Audoen's LORD EDWARD ST City Hall TRIN
Church SCHOOLHOUSE LANE W ST MICHAEL’S HILL JOHN’S CORK HILL D A M E L A N E ITY ST COLLEGE LANE and inland suburbs. Dublin Bikes
CHRIST CH U R C H PL C A S T L E S T EXCHEQUER ST A NDREW’S SUFFOLK STREET N A S S A U COLLEGE scheme with more than 100 hire
LA EAST
is a self-service bike-rental-
BRIDGE ST
UPPER
PARK
HIGH STREET
WICKLOW ST
B A C K
Café S T R E E T
St Werburgh's CASTLE STEPS SOUTH GREAT GEORGE’S ST DRURY STREET ST Powerscourt stations around the city.
L A M B
Church WERBURGH ST Townhouse S T R E E T
L A CASTLE L A N E
J DILLON N E SHIP ST LITTLE MARKET C L A R E N D O N S T R E E T D U K E S T R E E T S T R E E T DAWSON LANE LEINSTER ST STH LINCOLN PLACE
STREET
A L L E Y
DEAN SWIFT SQ R O S S R O A D FADE ST JOHNSON CT LEMON U K E FREDERICK ST SOUTH SETANTA PLACE CLARE FENIAN STREET
THOMAS DAVIS NICH OLAS STREET B R I D E R O A D SHIP STREET GREAT Bewley's STREET D National MERRION ST LR
ST STH
STEPHEN ST UP STEPHEN ST LOWER Oriental ANNE ST SOUTH M O L E S W S T R E E T Library CLARE LA STREET D E N Z I L L E
F R A N C I S
PLACE
L A N E LONGFORD S T R E E T L A N E ROW ANNE’S LANE St Ann's MOLESWORTH O R T H S T R E E T Leinster L A N E
Church
CHANCERY LANE
HANOVER LANE ST GREAT D I G G E S CLARENDON CHATHAM ST G R AF T O N SCHOOLHOUSE LA House MERRION SQ W MERRION SQUARE NORTH H O L L E S S T
B R I D E
STREET BULL ALLEY ST G O L D E N WHITEF RI AR ST Church BOW LANE EAST K I N G S T R E E T S O U T H D A W S O N Mansion K I L D A R E Museum of
JOHN DILLON STREET
Whitefriar St
ST PATRICK'S
National
Carmelite
PARK
House
WOOD ST
Ireland–
S T R E E T
PATRICK S T R E E T WHITEFRIAR Y O R K GLOVER' S Shelbourne Natural
History
Hotel
PLACE
Marsh's P E T E R S T R E E T A U N G I E R ALLEY MERRION ST UP MERRION SQUARE SOUTH MERRION SQ E
DEAN ST
Library P E T E R R O W AUNGIER PL S T R E E T Government F I T Z W I L L I A M
Buildings
S T PAT R I C K ’S C L O S E
S T R E E T ST STEPHEN’S GREEN WEST ST STEPHEN’S GREEN NORTH BAGGOT RATH PLACE
B I S H O P DIGGES ST MERCER STREET UPPER ST STEPHEN’S MERRION ROW
UP HUME STREET L A N E ST LR
K E V I N S T R E E T U P P E R
HILL
REDMOND'S
K E V I N S T R E E T L O WE R
CUFFE STREET GREEN ST STEPHEN’S GREEN EAST E L Y P L A C E BAGGOT ST FITZWILLIAM
STOKES PL
Newman
House
ST STEPHEN’S GREEN SOUTH
Iveagh 0 meters 300
House LEESON LANE
0 yards 300
For keys to symbols see back flap
114-115_EW_Europe.indd 115 14/07/16 2:19 pm

116  BRIT AIN AND IRELAND

Street by Street: Southeast Dublin

The area around College Green, dominated by the facades
of the Bank of Ireland and Trinity College, is very much the
heart of Dublin. The alleys and malls cutting across busy
pedestrianized Grafton Street boast many of Dublin’s better C O L L E G E G R E E N
stores, hotels, and restaurants. Just off Kildare Street are the Dublin
Irish Parliament, the National Library, and the National Castle
Museum of Ireland – Archaeology. To escape the city bustle,
many head for sanctuary on St. Stephen’s Green.
T
G R A F T O N S T R E E
The Bank of Ireland
is a grand Georgian
edifice, originally built
as the Irish Parliament. S U F F O L K S T



Statue of Molly
Malone (1988)
Grafton Street
This popular pedestrian street is home to many
of Dublin’s best stores, such as Brown Thomas
G R A F T O N S T R E E T D U K E S T R E E T
(see p119).




St. Ann’s Church
This striking facade
of the 18th-century
church was added
in 1868. The A N N E S T S T H
interior features
lovely stained-
glass windows.
The Mansion House
has been the offical M O L E S W O R T H
residence of Dublin’s
S T R E E T
Lord Mayor since 1715. D A W S O N S T R E E T
Fusiliers’ Arch (1907)












St. Stephen’s Green S T . S T E P H E N ’ S G R E E N N O R T H
This relaxing city park is surrounded by many
fine buildings. In summer, lunchtime concerts
attract tourists and workers alike.
For hotels and restaurants see p138 and p139


116-117_EW_Europe.indd 116 14/07/16 10:09 am

DUBLIN  117


O’Connell Bridge . Trinity College
The focal point of Parliament
Square, the largest of Trinity’s
spacious quadrangles, is the
elegant Italianate bell tower
known as the “Campanile.”
C O L L E G E G R E E N Designed by Sir Charles
Lanyon, it was erected in
1853 (see p118).


T
G R A F T O N S T R E E






National Library
Saintly cherubs appear on the
frieze around the library’s
magnificent old reading room,
once a hangout
of novelist James Joyce.
Leinster House
was taken over as the seat of
the Irish Parliament in 1922.
N A S S A U S T R E E T
. National Museum of
F R E D R I C K S T R E E T includes this bronze object from
Ireland – Archaeology
The collection of Irish antiquities
the 2nd century AD, known as
the Petrie Crown (see p119).






S T R E E T
M O L E S W O R T H




K I L D A R E S T R E E T




0 meters
0 yards 50 50
The Shelbourne Hotel
Key Built in 1867, the hotel dominates the north side
of St. Stephen’s Green. It is popular with tourists
Suggested route
S T . S T E P H E N ’ S G R E E N N O R T H
and locals for afternoon tea.


116-117_EW_Europe.indd 117 14/07/16 10:09 am

118  BRIT AIN AND IRELAND

2 Merrion Square
alumni of more recent times
include the playwrights Oscar £ DART to Pearse. @ 4, 7, 25, 44, 66
Wilde (1854–1900) and Samuel & many others.
Beckett (1906–89).
The oldest surviving part of Merrion Square is one of Dublin’s
the college is the red-brick largest and grandest Georgian
building (the Rubrics) on the squares. Covering about 5 ha
east side of Library Square, (12 acres), the square was laid
built around 1700. The Old out by John Ensor around 1762.
Library itself dates from 1732. On the west side are the
Its spectacular Long Room impressive facades of the Natural
measures 64 m (210 ft) from History Museum, the National
end to end. It houses 200,000 Gallery of Ireland, and the
antiquarian texts, marble busts front garden of Leinster House,
View down the central aisle of Trinity of scholars and seat of the Dáil
College’s Old Library the oldest harp in and the Seanad
Ireland. Below the (the two houses
1 Trinity College Library is the of the Irish Parlia-
College Green. Tel 01-896 2320. £ Treasury, where the ment). The other
DART to Pearse. @ 4, 7, 10, 14, 15, 46, college’s most three sides of
48 & many others. Old Library and precious volumes the square are
Treasury: Open daily. Closed 10 days at – the beautifully lined with lovely
Christmas. & 7 ∑ tcd.ie illuminated Georgian town-
manuscripts houses. Many have
Trinity was founded in 1592 produced in Ireland brightly painted
by Elizabeth I on the site of an from the 7th to the doors and original
Augustinian monastery as a 9th century – are features, such
bastion of Protestantism. It kept. The most as wrought-iron
was not until the 1970s that famous, the Book Portrait of St. Matthew from balconies, ornate
Catholics started entering the of Kells (see p127), the Book of Kells door knockers,
university. Its cobbled quads may have been and fanlights.
and lawns still have a monastic created by monks from Iona, The oldest and fin est houses
feel, providing a pleasant haven who fled to Kells in 806 after are on the north side.
in the heart of the city. In front a Viking raid. The scribes Many of the houses – now
of the main entrance, on College embellished the text with predominantly used as office
Green, are statues of two of intricate patterns as well as space – have plaques
Trinity’s most famous 18th- human figures and animals. detailing famous former
century students, playwright Almost as fine is the Book occupants, such as Catholic
Oliver Goldsmith and political of Durrow, which dates from emancipation leader Daniel
writer Edmund Burke. Literary the late 7th century. O’Connell (No. 58), and poet
























Facade of Trinity College, Dublin, the Republic’s most prestigious university
For hotels and restaurants see p138 and p139


118-119_EW_Europe.indd 118 14/07/16 10:13 am

DUBLIN  119


coins, pottery, and swords
excavated in the 1970s from
the Viking settlement,
discovered beside the Liffey
at Wood Quay near Christ
Church Cathedral (see p121).
The Museum has another
branch at Benburb Street,
west of the city center. Housed
in the vast Collins Barracks,
established in 1700 by William
III, is the National Museum of
Georgian townhouses overlooking Merrion Square gardens Ireland – Decorative Arts &
History. The principal exhibits
W.B. Yeats (No. 82). Oscar Wilde entrance to the gallery is via are the museum’s collections
spent his childhood at No. 1. the Millennium Wing on Clare of furniture, silver, weaponry,
The attractive central park Street. and scientific instruments, as
has colorful flower and shrub well as an exhibition on the
beds. In the 1840s, it served a 4 National Museum 1916 Easter Rising and events
grim function as a soup kitchen, of Ireland – that occurred in the decade
feeding the hungry during the Archaeology 1913–1923.
Great Famine.
Kildare St. Tel 01-677 7444. £ DART
3 National Gallery to Pearse. v Luas green line to St.
of Ireland Stephen’s Green. @ 15, 25, 38, 140 &
many others. Open Tue–Sat & 2–5pm
Merrion Square West & Clare St. Sun. Closed Good Fri & Dec 25. 8
^ - = 7 ground floor only.
Tel 01-661 5133. £ DART to Pearse.
@ 4, 7, 25, 44 & many others. ∑ museum.ie
Open 9:15am–5:30pm Mon–Sat (to
8:30pm Thu), 11am–5.30pm Sun. The National Museum of
Closed Good Fri & Dec 24–26. 8 ^ Ireland – Archaeology was
7 - = 0 ∑ nationalgallery.ie built in the 1880s to the
design of Sir Thomas Deane.
This purpose-built gallery was Its splendid domed rotunda
opened to the public in 1864. features marble pillars and
It houses more than 15,000 a zodiac mosaic floor. The
works of art from the 13th ground floor holds Ór –
century to the present day, with Ireland’s Gold, a collection of 7th-century plaque depicting the
a significant collection of works Bronze Age finds, including Crucifixion, National Museum
from the Italian, French, Flemish, many beautiful pieces of
and Dutch schools. The fine art jewelry. Objects from the later 5 Grafton Street
collection is made up of celebra- Iron Age Celtic period are on
ted masterpieces by the likes of display in the Treasury. There @ 14, 15, 46 & many others.
Rembrandt, Vermeer, Gains- are also many well-known
borough, Renoir, Picasso, and treasures from the era of Irish The spine of Dublin’s most
Van Gogh. The NGI also holds Christianity (see pp126–7). The stylish shopping district runs
the most important collection first floor houses Viking artifacts south from College Green to
of Irish painting, dating from and the Ancient Egypt gallery. the glass St. Stephen’s Green
the 17th century, plus a The Viking exhibition features Shopping Centre. This busy
section dedicated to pedestrianized strip, with
the works of Jack B. its energetic buskers and
Yeats (1871–1957). talented street-theater artists,
The gallery is boasts one of Dublin’s best
currently undergoing department stores, Brown
a major program of Thomas, and popular
refurbishment of its traditional pubs hidden
historic Dargan and along the side streets.
Milltown wings, which At the junction with Nassau
date from the mid- Street is a statue by Jean
19th century. The Rynhart of Molly Malone (1988),
work is scheduled for the celebrated “cockles and
completion in late mussels” street trader of the
2016. Until then, Vermeer’s Woman Writing a Letter, National Gallery of Ireland well-known Irish folk song.




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120  BRIT AIN AND IRELAND


the land in the early 1600s. The 8 St. Patrick’s
term “bar” meant a riverside Cathedral
path. In the 1800s, it was home
to small businesses, but over St. Patrick’s Close. Tel 01-453 9472.
the years went into decline. @ 49, 54A, 56A, 77A, 151. Open daily.
In the early 1960s, the land Closed Dec 25 (pm) & 26. & 7
∑ stpatrickscathedral.ie
was bought up with plans
for redevelopment. Artists
and retailers took short-term Ireland’s largest church was
leases, but stayed on when founded beside a sacred well
the plans were scrapped where St. Patrick is said to
and Temple Bar have baptized converts
prospered. Today, it is around AD 450. It was
an exciting place, with originally just a
restaurants, wooden chapel, but in
bars, clubs, shops, 1192, Archb ishop John
Shoppers in Temple Bar and galleries. Comyn commi ssioned
Organizations based a magnificent new
6 Temple Bar here include the Irish stone structure.
Film Institute, which The cathedral is
@ 11, 16A, 46A & many others.
n Project Arts Centre: 39 East has three screens, as Jonathan Swift, Dean of 91 m (300 ft) long; at
Essex Street. Tel 01-881 9613. well as a bookshop St. Patrick’s from 1713 the western end is a
Open 11am– 8pm Mon–Sat; and café, Project 43 m (141 ft) tower,
shows nightly. - 7 Arts Centre, a contemporary- restored by Arch bishop Minot
arts center for theater, dance, in 1370 and now known as the
The area of cobbled streets film, music, and visual art, and Minot Tower. Much of the present
between Dame Street and the Gallery of Photography, building dates back to work
the Liffey are named after Sir the only Irish art gallery completed between 1254 and
William Temple, who acquired devoted solely to photographs. 1270. Thanks to the generosity
7 Dublin Castle Picture Gallery
For seven centuries, Dublin Castle was
a symbol of English rule, ever since the
Anglo-Normans built a fortress here in
the 13th century. Remnants of the early
structure include the Record Tower, the
butt of the Powder Tower, and parts of Entrance to
State Apartments
the curtain wall. After a fire in 1684, the
Surveyor-General, Sir William Robinson,
laid down the plans for the Upper Castle
Yard in its present form. On the first floor
of the south side of the Upper Yard are the
luxurious State Apartments. The Chester
Beatty Library has artistic and religious
treasures from around the world.
Bermingham Tower
can be viewed at
Ship St Gate. It Octagonal
served as a prison Tower
and as a storage (c.1812) Record
place for adminis- Tower
tration records.

The Throne Room dates
St. Patrick’s Hall from the 18th century. The
This grand hall is hung with banners of the throne itself is said to have
Knights of St. Patrick. The 18th-century been built for King George
ceiling paintings are allegories of the IV in 1821.
relationship between Britain and Ireland.
For hotels and restaurants see p138 and p139


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DUBLIN  121


of Sir Benjamin Guinness, the 9 Christ Church
cathedral underwent extensive Cathedral
restoration during the 1860s.
The interior is dotted with Christchurch Place. Tel 01-677 8099.
memorials. The most elaborate @ 13, 49, 54A, 56A, 77A, 123. Open
is the one erected in 1632 by daily. Closed Dec 26 & 27. & 7
limited. ∑ christchurchdublin.ie
Richard Boyle, Earl of Cork, in
memory of his second wife
Katherine. It is deco rated with The cathedral was
painted carvings of members commissioned in 1172
of the Boyle family. Others by Richard de Clare, known
remembered in the church as Strongbow, the Anglo-
include the harpist Turlough Norman conqueror of Dublin,
O’Carolan (1670–1738) and and by Archbishop Laurence
Douglas Hyde (1860–1949), O’Toole. It replaced an earlier
Ireland’s first President. wooden church built by the
Many visitors come to see the Vikings. During the Reform-
memorials associated with ation, the cathedral passed
Jonathan Swift (1667–1745), to the Protestant Church of
Dean of St. Patrick’s and a Ireland. It was remodeled by Christ Church Cathedral viewed from the east,
scathing satirist best known as architect George Street in the with the Old Synod Hall behind
the author of Gulliver’s Travels. In 1870s. Even so, the north wall,
the south aisle is “Swift’s Corner,” the one closest to the river, still In the atmospheric crypt are
which has memorabilia, such as leans out alarmingly as a result fragments removed from the
an altar table and his death of subsidence. As part of the cathedral during its restoration.
mask. On the southwest side of remodeling, the Old Synod There are also the mummified
the nave, two brass plates mark Hall was built and linked to bodies of a cat and a rat found in
his grave and that of his the cathedral by an attractive an organ pipe in the 1860s. There
beloved “Stella,” Ester Johnson. covered bridge. is a permanent exhibition of the
cathedral’s treasures as well.
The nave has some fine early
Bedford VISITORS’ CHECKLIST Gothic arches. At the west end
Tower (1760) is a memorial known as the
Practical Information Strongbow Monument. The
Off Dame St. Tel 01-645 8813. large effigy in chain armor is
Open daily (Sun pm only). probably not Strongbow, but
Closed Jan 1, Good Fri, the curious half-figure beside
Dec 24–28. & 8 obligatory. it may be part of his original
Chester Beatty Library: tomb. The Chapel of St. Laud
Open 10am–5pm Mon–Fri. houses a casket containing the
Closed Jan 1, Good Fri, Dec heart of St. Laurence O’Toole.
24–26, public hols.
∑ dublincastle.ie
Transport 0 Dublinia and the
@ 49, 77A, 123. Viking World
St. Michael’s Hill. Tel 01-679 4611.
@ 13, 49, 54A, 123. Open daily.
Closed Dec 24–26. & 7
∑ dublinia.ie
Entrance to Housed in the Neo-Gothic
Upper Yard
Synod Hall, which is linked
by a bridge to Christ Church
Lower Yard
Cathedral, this heritage center
covers the period of Dublin’s
history from the arrival of the
Anglo-Normans in 1170 to
Government the closure of the monasteries
offices in the 1540s. An audio tour
Figure of Justice takes visitors through lifesize
Cynical Dubliners have joked that reconstructions of the medieval
this statue above the castle city. There is also a Viking
Chapel Royal entrance appears to be warship and an interactive
(1814) turning her back on the city. archaeology exhibition.



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122  BRIT AIN AND IRELAND






















James Gandon’s Four Courts, overlooking the River Liffey
q The Liffey Gandon at the end of the 18th rights in the 19th century.
century. In 1921, supporters The street was laid out in the
@ 25, 25A, 51, 66, 66A, 67, 67A, 68, 69
and many others. of Sinn Féin celebrated their 18th century as an elegant
election victory by setting residential parade, but the
Though modest in size light to the Custom House, construction of Carlisle (now
compared with the rivers of seen as a symbol of British O’Connell) Bridge in 1790
other capital cities, the Liffey imperialism. The building turned it into the city’s
features strongly in Dubliners’ was not fully restored until principal north-south route.
everyday lives and holds a 1991, when it reopened as As a result, little remains of
special place in their affections. government offices. A its intended grandeur.
The handiest pedestrian link series of 14 magnificent A few venerable
between Temple Bar (see p120) heads by Edward Smyth, buildings survive,
and the north of the city is personifying Ireland’s including the General
Ha’penny Bridge. This attractive, rivers and the Atlantic Post Office, which
cast-iron bridge, originally called Ocean, form the became a symbol of the
Wellington Bridge, was opened keystones of arches 1916 Easter Rising.
in 1816. Its official name now and entrances. Members of the Irish
is the Liffey Bridge. Its better- The Four Courts Volunteers and
known nickname comes from suffered a similar Irish Citizen
the toll of a halfpenny levied fate during the Army seized the
on it up until 1919. Irish Civil War of building on
The two most impressive 1921–2, when it The monument to Easter Monday,
buildings on the Liffey are the was bombarded Daniel O’Connell and Patrick
Custom House and the Four by government Pearse read out
Courts, both designed by James troops after being seized by the Proclamation of the Irish
anti-Treaty rebels. Here too, Republic from its steps. The
the buildings were restored to rebels remained inside for a
their original design. A copper- week, but shelling from the
covered lantern dome rises British eventually forced them
above a Corinthian portico out. During the following
crowned with the figures of weeks, 14 of the leaders were
Moses, Justice, and Mercy. caught and shot. Inside the
building is a sculpture of the
mythical Irish hero Cuchulainn,
w O’Connell Street dedicated to those who died,
and a small museum tells the
@ 2, 3, 11, 13, 16A, and many others.
history of the postal service.
Dublin’s main thoroughfare, A walk up the central mall is
formerly called Sackville Street, the best way to inspect the
was renamed in 1922 after series of sculptures lining the
Daniel O’Connell, who was route. At the south end stands
Carved head representing the River known as the “Liberator” for his a massive memorial to Daniel
Liffey, Custom House tireless campaigns for Catholic O’Connell, unveiled in 1882.
For hotels and restaurants see p138 and p139


122-123_EW_Europe.indd 122 14/07/16 10:13 am

DUBLIN  123

r Guinness
In the middle is an elegant
spire and at the north end is Storehouse
the monument to Charles St. James’s Gate, Dublin 8. Tel 01-408
Stewart Parnell (1846–91).
4800. @ 51B, 78A, 123. Open daily.
Closed Good Fri, Dec 24–26, Jan 1.
e Parnell Square & 7 - 0 =
∑ guinness-storehouse.com
@ 3, 11A, 13, 16A, 19A, 38 and many
others. Dublin Writers Museum: 18 Guinness is a black beer, known
Parnell Sq North. Tel 01-872 2077. as “stout,” renowned for its
Open daily. Closed Dec 25 & 26. distinctive malty flavor and
& ∑ writersmuseum.com smooth creamy head. The The Phoenix Column
Dublin City Gallery, The Hugh Lane: Guinness brewery site at St.
Charlemont House. Tel 01-222 5550. James’s Gate is the largest brew- t Phoenix Park
Open Tue–Sun. Closed Dec 24–27 & ery in Europe, and exports beers Park Gate, Conyngham Rd, Dublin 8.
public hols. ∑ hughlane.ie to more than 120 countries. @ 25, 66, 67, 68, 69. Open daily.
The World of Guinness Visitor Center: Tel 01-677 0095.
The square at the top of exhibition is housed in a 19th- Open daily (Jan–Mar: Wed–Sun only).
O’Connell Street looks sadly century warehouse, used for 7 limited. Zoo: Tel 01-474 8900.
neglected. Even so, it contains a hop storage until the 1950s. It Open daily. & = - 0 7
number of noteworthy sights, chronicles 200 years of brewing ∑ dublinzoo.ie
including the Rotunda Hospital, at St. James’s Gate. The tour starts
Europe’s first purpose-built in a Victorian kieve (or mash Just to the west of the city
maternity hospital, opened in filter), and goes on to examine center, ringed by an 11-km
1757. Its chapel has some fine all other stages of the brewing (7-mile) wall, is Europe’s largest
Rococo stuccowork. The former process. Displays show how enclosed city park. The name
grand supper room of production methods “Phoenix” is said to be a
the hospital is now the have changed over corruption of the Gaelic Fionn
Gate Theatre, famous the years since Uisce, or “clear water.” The
for producing 1759, when Arthur Phoenix Column is crowned by a
new plays. Guinness took over statue of the mythical bird. The
On the north side the backstreet park originated in 1662, when
of the square, two brewery. Guinness the Duke of Ormonde turned
grand 18th-century started brewing ale, the land into a deer park. It was
townhouses have but was aware of a opened to the public in 1745.
been converted into Arthur Guinness black beer called Near Park Gate is the lakeside
museums: the Dublin “porter,” popular in People’s Garden. A little further
Writers Museum, devoted to London’s markets. He developed on are the Zoological Gardens,
Irish literature, and the Dublin a new recipe for porter (the which are renowned for the
City Gallery, The Hugh Lane. The word “stout” was not used until breeding of lions, including
latter houses the Impressionist the 1920s). So successful was the first mascot to feature in the
paintings bequeathed to Dublin the switch that he made his introduction to the MGM movies.
Corporation by Sir Hugh Lane, first export shipment in 1769. The park has two very
who died on the torpedoed liner The tour ends with a conspicuous monuments. The
Lusitania in 1915. The square also complimentary pint of Guinness Wellington Testimonial is a 63 m
has a Garden of Remembrance, in the Granty Bar, where visitors (204 ft) obelisk, begun in 1817
opened in 1966, on the 50th can also enjoy 360-degree and completed in 1861. Its
anniversary of the Easter Rising. views of the city. bronze bas-reliefs were made
from captured French cannons.
The 27 m (90 ft) steel Papal
Cross marks the spot where
the pope said Mass in front of
one million people in 1979.
Buildings within the park
include two 18th-century
houses: Áras an Uachtaráin,
the Irish President’s official
residence, for which 525 tickets
are issued every Saturday for a
free guided tour, and Deerfield,
home of the US ambassador.
Ashtown Castle is a restored
17th-century tower house, now
The Gallery of Writers at the Dublin Writers Museum, Parnell Square the Phoenix Park Visitor Centre.




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124  BRIT AIN AND IRELAND

Southeast Ireland opening above the entrance to
the tomb – a feature unique to
Enjoying the warmest climate in Ireland, the southeast has Newgrange. The light travels
always presented an attractive prospect for invaders and along the 19-m (62-ft) passage
settlers. Its highlights include the Neolithic tombs in the and hits the central recess in the
Valley of the Boyne, early Christian monastic sites, and towns burial chamber. It is thus the
world’s oldest solar observatory.
such as Waterford that grew from Viking settlements. It is also Between 1962 and 1975, the
the setting for many great 18th-century houses built by the grave and the mound, or cairn,
ruling English aristocracy. The wildest landscapes of the covering it were restored. The
region are to be found in the forested hills and desolate retaining wall at the front of
moorland of the Wicklow Mountains south of Dublin. the cairn was rebuilt using
white quartz and granite
stones found scattered around
A portrait of Lady Louisa is the site. It is estimated that
incorporated in the superb the original tomb, created by
Rococo stuccowork by the people who had neither the
Francini brothers in the staircase wheel nor metal tools, may
hall. Another personal reminder have taken up to 70 years to
of Lady Louisa is the print room, build. About 200,000 tons of
the last surviving, intact loose stones were transported
example of its kind. In the to build the cairn. Larger slabs
18th century, ladies pasted were used to make the circle
prints directly on to the wall around the cairn and the
and framed them with retaining kerb. Many of the
elaborate festoons. kerbstones and the slabs lining
the passage and chamber are
3 Newgrange decorated with zigzags, spirals,
and other geometric motifs.
8 km (5 miles) E of Slane, Co. Meath. Each of the three recesses in
£ to Drogheda. @ to visitor center the central chamber contained
via Drogheda. Brú na Bóinne a chiseled “basin stone” that
Interpretive Centre: Tel 041-988 held funerary offerings and
0300. Open daily. Closed Dec 24–27. the bones of the dead. The
Elegant stuccoed hall and staircase at & 8 obligatory. ^ in tomb. chamber’s corbeled ceiling
Castletown House - = ∑ newgrange.com has proved completely
2 Castletown The origins of Newgrange, one waterproof for 5,000 years.
Newgrange is very popular,
House of the most important passage especially in summer, so queues
graves in Europe, are steeped in are likely and you have to wait
Celbridge, Co. Kildare. Tel 01-628 8252.
@ 67, 67A from Dublin. Open mid- mystery. Built around 3200 BC, it your turn at the Brú na Bóinne
Mar–Oct: 10am–6pm daily; Nov–mid- was rediscovered in 1699. When Interpretive Centre. This has
Mar: grounds only. & 8 obligatory. it was excavated in the 1960s, displays on the area’s Stone Age
^ - 7 limited. ∑ castletown.ie archaeologists realized that at heritage. The tour includes the
dawn on the winter solstice nearby tomb at Knowth. The last
Built in 1722–32 for William (December 21), a beam of one starts at 3:15pm in winter
Conolly, Speaker of the Irish sunlight shines through the and at 5:15pm in midsummer.
Parliament, Castletown was
Ireland’s first grand Palladian-
style country house. Most of the
interiors were commissioned by
Lady Louisa Lennox, wife of
Conolly’s great-nephew, Tom,
who lived here in the late 18th
century. It was she who added
the magnificent long gallery at
the top of the house, with its
Pompeiian-style friezes, cobalt-
blue walls, and niches framing
Classical statuary. From the long
gallery, visitors can admire the
curious obelisk-topped
memorial to Speaker Conolly,
erected by his widow in 1740. Aerial view of Newgrange, showing the cairn and circle of standing stones
For hotels and restaurants see p138 and p139


124-125_EW_Europe.indd 124 14/07/16 10:13 am

IRELAND  125

5 Kilkenny + Kilkenny Castle
Co. Kilkenny. * 26,000. £ @ The Parade. Tel 056-770 4100.
n Shee Alms House, Rose Inn St Open daily. Closed Good Fri,
(056-775 1500). _ Kilkenny Arts Christmas (see website). & 8
Festival (Aug). ∑ kilkenny.ie obligatory. ^ 7 limited.
∑ kilkennycastle.ie
In a lovely setting beside the Riv er
Nore, Kilkenny is Ireland’s most
attractive inland city. Many of its 6 Waterford
houses feature the local black Co. Waterford. * 49,000. £ @ 4
limestone, known as Kilkenny n 120 Parade Quay (051-875 823).
marble. The city is proud of its ( Sat. _ International Festival
heritage and hosts a major arts of Light Opera (Sep).
festival. It is also a brewery city, ∑ visitwaterford.com
filled with atmospheric old pubs.
Kilkenny Castle is a Ireland’s oldest city, Waterford
12th-century castle that was was founded by the Vikings
remodeled in Victorian times. It in 914, and later extended
Round tower at Glendalough is set in extensive parkland, and by the Anglo-Normans. Its
was the seat of the Butler family commanding position on the
4 Glendalough for almost 600 years from around Suir estuary made it southeast
Co. Wicklow. @ St. Kevin’s Bus from 1391 until 1967, when it was Ireland’s main port. The 18th
Dublin. Ruins: Open daily. 8 in presented to the people of century saw the establishment
summer. Visitor Center: Tel 0404- Kilkenny. Two wings of the castle of local industries, including the
45352. Open daily. Closed Dec 23–28. have been restored to their world-famous glassworks.
& 7 limited. ∑ glendalough.ie 19th-century splendor, and The remains of the city walls
include a library, a drawing define the area fortified by the
The steep, wooded slopes of room, and the magnificent Normans. The largest surviving
Glendalough, the “valley of the Long Gallery. The River Wing structure is Reginald’s Tower,
two lakes,” harbor one of houses the Butler Gallery of overlooking the river. Despite
Ireland’s most atmospheric Contemporary Art. the city’s medieval layout, most
ruined monasteries. Founded by The area known, in the days of its finest buildings are
St. Kevin in the 6th century, it of segregation, as Englis h Georgian, including Christ­
functioned as a monastic center Town boasts the city’s gran- church Cathedral, designed
until the Dissolution of the dest buildings, such as in the 1770s by local
Monasteries in 1539. Rot he House, a fine architect John Roberts.
Most of the buildings date Tudor merchant’s From June to August,
from the 10th to 12th centuries. house, built arou nd there are pleasure
The reconstruction (see pp126–7) two courtyards. The Waterford Crystal decanter cruises on the river.
shows how the monastery may area of narrow alley- The Waterford
have looked in its heyday. The ways, or “slips,” is part of Kilkenny’s Crystal Factory lies 2.5 km (1.5
main ruins lie near the smaller medieval heritage. miles) south of the center. The
Lower Lake. You enter the The Irishtown district is original factory was founded in
monastery through the double dominated by St. Canice’s 1783, but closed in 1851. A new
stone arch of the gatehouse, Cathedral and a round tower factory opened in 1947.
from where a short walk leads that offers views of the city. The
to a graveyard with a restored Gothic cathedral dates from the E Waterford Crystal Factory
round tower in one corner. 13th century. It has a finely Kilbarry. Tel 051-317 000. Open Apr–
Other ruins include the roofless sculpted west door and an array Oct: 9am–4:15pm daily; Nov–Mar:
cathedral, the tiny Priest’s House of 16th-century tombs, with 9:30am–3:15pm Mon–Fri.
and St. Kevin’s Cross. Below, beautiful effigies of the Butler Closed Dec 21–Jan 4. & 8 7
nestled in the lush valley, stands family, in the south transept. ∑ waterfordvisitorcentre.com
a small oratory. It is popularly
known as St. Kevin’s Kitchen,
because its belfry resembles a
chimney.
A path along the south bank
of the river leads to the Upper
Lake and some of the other
buildings associated with
St. Kevin. Here, the scenery
is wilder and you are better
able to enjoy the tranquility
of Glendalough. Tomb of 2nd Marquess of Ormonde in St. Canice’s Cathedral, Kilkenny




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126  BRIT AIN AND IRELAND


Early-Celtic Christianity Conical roof
Lookout window
Ireland became Christian in the 5th century, following
the missions of St. Patrick and others. The situation was
soon reversed, with many Irish missionaries, such as St. Wooden floor
Columba and St. Columbanus, sailing to Great Britain, Movable ladder
France, and beyond. The Irish church developed more
or less free from the control of Rome, but nevertheless Round towers, first
built in the 10th
had strong links with the east. As in Egypt, the Christian century, were bell
faith inspired a proliferation of hermitages and remote houses, store houses,
monasteries. Decorative motifs in illuminated and landmarks for
manuscripts reflect Egyptian Christian imagery, and approaching visitors.
The entrance could
materials used in making the inks came from the Middle be 4 m (13 ft) above
East. The advent of the Vikings in the 9th century forced ground and was
the monasteries to take defensive measures, but they reached by a ladder.
continued to flourish despite frequent raids.
Refectory Abbot’s house
Celtic Monastery and kitchen
This reconstruction shows Glendalough (see p125) in
about 1100. Monasteries were probably the largest Craftsmen’s
centers of population in Ireland before the dwellings
Vikings started to found towns.
St. Mary’s
Church










The watermill The Magnus
Domus St. Kevin’s Church

Ireland’s High Crosses
High Crosses are found in parts of Britain as well as Ireland, yet in their
profusion and craftsmanship, Irish crosses are exceptional. The ringed
cross has become a symbol of Irish Christianity and is still imitated
today. The medieval High Crosses were carved between the 8th
and 12th centuries. Early ones, such as the 8th-century cross at
Ahenny, bore spirals and interlacing patterns, but in the 9th and
10th centuries, a new style emerged with sculpted scenes from
the Bible, “sermons in stone,” aimed at educating a largely
illiterate population.

Muiredach’s Cross at
Monasterboice is the finest
surviving example of a cross
carved with biblical scenes.
This panel shows the Fall of Ornamental High Cross of the Scriptures,
Man: Eve offering Adam the
apple in the Garden of Eden Cross at Ahenny Clonmacnoise
and Cain slaying Abel.
For hotels and restaurants see p138 and p139



126-127_EW_Europe.indd 126 14/07/16 10:13 am

IRELAND  127



The Book of Kells Where to See Early
Christian Sites in
The most richly decorated of all
the Irish illuminated manuscripts Ireland
dating from the 8th–10th Important early Christian
centuries, the Book of Kells sites besides Glendalough
contains the four gospels in include Clonmacnoise, the
Latin, copied onto leaves of Rock of Cashel (see p128),
high-quality vellum. It is Ahenny, Clonfert, Kells, and
remarkable both for the beauty Devenish Island. Though
of the script and for the inspired most of the monastic
fantasy of the illumination. There buildings are ruins, many
is no record of its existence have continued to be used
before the early 11th century, as cemeteries right up to
but it was probably created in modern times. Monasteries
about 800. It would have taken were built on the Aran
many years of work by the Page of the Genealogy of Christ from Islands (see p131) and even
scriptorium of a monastery. It the Book of Kells on the remote rocky Skellig
may have been brought to Kells Michael, off the Kerry Coast.
by monks from Iona who fled to Round towers and High
Ireland after a Viking raid in 806. The manuscript was moved to Crosses are preserved all over
Trinity College (see p118) in the 17th century for safe-keeping. Ireland, often standing
beside churches of much
more recent construction.
Gatehouse
Guesthouse Monks’
and stable
dwellings
and barns









Clonmacnoise was
founded in the 6th century.
The monastery was noted
for its piety and scholarship.
Now it is an atmospheric
collection of ruins in a
remote spot on the
Shannon. This carved
Romanesque doorway is
The cathedral was the part of the Nun’s Church.
largest of the many The Crozier of the Abbots
churches built in and of Clonmacnoise dates
around the monastery. from the 11th century. The
incised patterns on
the ornate silver
casing show the strong
influence of Viking designs.


The Voyage of St. Brendan is a Devenish Island has a fine
fantastic legend of early-medieval restored round tower and
Irish Christianity. The 6th-century enjoys a peaceful setting on
saint and his followers set sail into Lower Lough Erne. Lake
the Atlantic in a small boat, sighting islands were popular as
volcanic islands, ice floes, whales, monastic sites.
and even, some say, America.





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128  BRIT AIN AND IRELAND

Southwest Ireland combined with the Georgian
architecture of the old Quays,
Magnificent scenery has attracted visitors to this region since give Cork a continental feel. In
Victorian times. Killarney and its romantic lakes are a powerful the 18th century, many of
magnet for tourists, as is the attractive coastline of Cork and today’s streets were waterways
Kerry, where rocky headlands jut out into the Atlantic and lined with warehouses and
merchants’ residences.
colorful fishing villages nestle in the bays. Yet much of the Noted for its chic bars, ethnic
southwest remains unspoiled, with a friendly atmosphere restaurants, bookstores, and
and authentic culture still alive in Irish-speaking pockets. boutiques, Paul Street is the hub
of the liveliest district in town.
Church, and it flourished as a The nearby Crawford Art Gallery
religious center until a siege by has some fine Irish works of art.
a Cromwellian army in 1647 A prominent landmark is the
ended in the massacre of its steeple of St. Anne Shandon on
3,000 occupants. a hill in the north of the city. It is
A good proportion of the topped by a weather vane in
medieval complex still stands, the shape of a salmon. Visitors
though the main building, the can climb up and ring the bells.
Gothic cathedral, is roofless.
The earlier Cormac’s Chapel is E Crawford Art Gallery
an outstanding example of Emmet Place. Tel 0214-805 042.
Romanesque architecture. Open 10am–5pm Mon–Sat (to 8pm
The Rock of Cashel Other prominent features of Thu). Closed public hols, Jan 1,
Dec 25 & 26. 0 - = 7
7 Cashel the Rock are a restored round ∑ crawfordartgallery.ie
tower and the weatherbeaten
Co. Tipperary. * 11,400. @ St. Patrick’s Cross. The carved
n Heritage Centre, Main St figure on the east face of the
(062- 62511). Rock: Tel 062-61437. cross is said to be St. Patrick.
Open daily. Closed Dec 24–26.
& 8 7 limited. ∑ cashel.ie
8 Cork
The town’s great attraction is Co. Cork. * 123,000. £ @
the magnificent medieval Rock n Tourist House, Grand Parade
of Cashel. Many people stay (0214-255 100). _ Jazz Festival (Oct);
overnight to enjoy eerie floodlit Film Festival (Nov).
views of the rocky stronghold
rising dramatically out of the Cork city derives its name from
Tipperary plain. The Rock was the marshy banks of the Lee
a symbol of royal and River – its Irish name, Corcaigh,
ecclesiastical power for more means marsh – where St. Finbarr The battlemented keep and other ruined
than a thousand years. From the founded a monastery around towers of Blarney Castle
5th century AD, it was the seat AD 650. The center of Cork today
of the Kings of Munster, rulers occupies an island between two Environs
of southwest Ireland. In 1101, arms of the river. Its waterways, Beautiful countryside surrounds
they handed Cashel over to the bridges, and narrow alleys, Cork, especially along the valley
of the Lee River. Outings include
a tour of the whiskey distilery
at the Jameson Experience,
Midleton, and a trip to Blarney
Castle, where a legendary stone
bestows magical eloquence on
all who kiss it. Walking and
fishing are also popular.
E Jameson Experience, Midleton
Midleton, Co. Cork. Tel 0214-613 594.
Open daily. Closed Jan 1, Good Fri,
Dec 24–27. & 8 = - 7
∑ jamesonwhiskey.com
+ Blarney Castle
Blarney, Co. Cork. Tel 0214-385252.
Open daily. Closed Dec 24 & 25. =
South channel of the Lee River flowing through the city of Cork 7 grounds only. ∑ blarneycastle.ie
For hotels and restaurants see p138 and p139


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IRELAND  129


jaunting cars (pony-and-trap
rides) here for generations. The
town does get very crowded in
the summer, thanks to the lure
of the Lakes of Killarney. The
three lakes and many of the
heather- covered hills
surrounding them lie within
Killarney National Park.
Although the landscape is
dotted with ruined castles and
abbeys, the lakes are the focus
Newman’s Mall in the quaint village of attention: the moody, watery
of Kinsale scenery is subject to subtle Gallarus Oratory, a tiny dry-stone Early
9 Kinsale shifts of light and color. Well- Christian church
known beauty spots include
Co. Cork. * 3,400. @ n Pier Road the Meeting of the Waters, the q Dingle
(0214-772 234). _ Regatta (Aug); Ladies’ View, so called because Co. Kerry. * 2,500. @ n Strand St
Kinsale Gourmet Festival (Oct). it delighted Queen Victoria’s (06691-51188). ( Fri.
∑ kinsale.ie ladies-in-waiting in 1861, and
the Gap of Dunloe, a dramatic This once remote Irish-speaking
One of the prettiest small towns mountain pass. The largest of town is today a thriving fishing
in Ireland, Kinsale has had a long the lakes, Lough Leane, is port and popular tourist center.
and checkered history. The dotted with uninhabited Brightly painted – often fairly
defeat of the Irish forces and islands. Boat trips across the hippy – craft shops and cafés
their Spanish allies at the Battle lake run from Ross Castle on abound. Along the quayside
of Kinsale in 1601 signalled the the shore nearest Killarney. are lively bars offering music
end of the old Gaelic order. Overlooking the lakes is and seafood. The harbor is
An important naval base in Muckross House, an imposing home to Dingle’s biggest star,
the 17th and 18th centuries, mansion built in 1843 in Fungi the dolphin, who has
Kinsale today is a popular Elizabethan style, set in been a permanent resident
yachting center. It is also famous beautiful gardens. It houses since 1983 and can be visited
for the quality of its cuisine and the Museum of Kerry Folklife. by boat or on swimming trips.
has a popular annual Gourmet Next door is the Walled Garden
Festival of food and drink. Centre, which incorporates Environs
Charles Fort, a fine example the garden, a restaurant, and a Dingle is a good base for
of a star-shaped bastion fort, craft center. exploring the scattered
was built by the English in the The town is also the starting archaeological remains of the
1670s to protect Kinsale against point for the popular Ring of Dingle Peninsula. The most
foreign naval forces. To reach it, Kerry tour around the Iveragh fascin ating is the Gallarus
take the signposted coastal walk Peninsula. Allow a day’s drive to Oratory, northwest of Dingle.
from the quayside. enjoy its captivating scenery. This miniature dry-stone church,
shaped like an upturned boat,
+ Charles Fort P Muckross House was built from the 6th to the
3 km (2 miles) E of Kinsale. Tel 0214- 4 km (2.5 miles) S of Killarney. Tel 064- 9th centuries. West of Dingle,
772 263. Open mid-Mar–Oct: 6670144. Open daily. Closed Jan 1, along the coast road, are the
10am–6pm daily; Nov–mid-Mar: Dec 24–26. & 8 - = 7 Iron Age fort of Dunbeg and
10am–5pm daily. Last adm: 1 hr ∑ muckross-house.ie Early Christian beehive huts.
before closing. Closed Christmas
week. & 8 - 7 limited.
0 Killarney
Co. Kerry. * 13,500. £ @
n Beech Road (064-663 1633).
∑ killarney.ie
Killarney is often derided as “a
tourist town,” but this does not
detract from its cheerful
atmosphere. The infectious
Kerry humor is personified by
the wise-cracking “jarveys,”
whose families have run The Upper Lake, smallest and most remote of the Lakes of Killarney




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130  BRIT AIN AND IRELAND

w Bunratty Castle VISITORS’ CHECKLIST

This formidable 15th-century castle is one of Ireland’s major Practical Information
tourist attractions. Its most important residents were the Bunratty, Co. Clare. Tel 061-360
O’Briens, Earls of Thomond, who lived here from the early 788. Open 9am–5:30pm daily
(Jun–Aug: 9am–6pm).
16th century until the 1640s. The interior has been restored Last entry to castle 4pm all year.
to look as it did under the so-called “Great Earl,” who died in Closed Good Fri, Dec 23–26.
1624. The adjacent Folk Park and the mock-medieval banquets & 0 7 to Folk Park.
∑ shannonheritage.com
held in the castle attract many visitors, but despite its commer-
cialization, Bunratty is well worth a visit. The Folk Park recreates Transport
@ from Limerick, Ennis &
rural and urban life at the end of the 19th century, with a Shannon Airport. Castle & Folk Park
village, complete with stores, a school, and dwellings ranging
from a laborer’s cottage to an elegant Georgian house.
South Solar
Great Hall The carved ceiling here is
The castle’s grandest room served as a partly a reconstruction in
banqueting hall and audience chamber. late Tudor style.
Among the furnishings bought by the
owner, Lord Gort, when he set about
restoring the castle in the 1950s, was this
Tudor standard.









The North Solar
was the Great
Earl’s private
apartment.

The Murder
Hole was
designed for
pouring
boiling water
or pitch onto
the heads of
attackers.

Entrance


The Earl’s Robing Room
also served as a private
audience chamber.




North Front
The entrance, raised Main Guard
well above ground This was where the
level to deter castle’s soldiers ate, slept,
invaders, is typical of and listened to music
castles of the period. from the Minstrels’ Gallery.
For hotels and restaurants see p138 and p139


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IRELAND  131

















The imposing Kylemore Abbey, on the shores of Kylemore Lough, Connemara
e Galway Nearby is the Collegiate Church Nearby Kylemore Abbey is a
Co. Galway. * 60,000. £ @ of St. Nicholas, the city’s finest 19th-century romantic, battle-
n The Fairgreen, Foster St (091-537 medieval building. To the south mented fantasy. It became an
700). ( Sat & Sun. _ Arts Festival stands the 16th-century Spanish abbey when Benedictine nuns,
(Jul); Galway Races (late Jul); Oyster Arch, where ships from Spain fleeing from Belgium during
Festivals (Sep). unloaded their cargoes. Across World War I, sought refuge here.
the Corrib, facing the arch, is the A Victorian walled garden and
Galway is the center for the Irish- Claddagh. The only remnants of nature trails through the woods
speaking regions in the West of this once close-knit, Gaelic- and along the lake make the
Ireland and a lively university city. speaking community are its abbey a popular destination.
In the 15th and 16th centuries, friendly pubs and Claddagh
it was a prosperous trading port, rings – betrothal rings that are
controlled by 14 merchant traditionally handed down from t Aran Islands
families, or “tribes.” Its allegiance mother to daughter. Co. Galway. * 900. k from
to the English Crown cost the Connemara (091-593 034).
city dear when, in 1652, it was r Connemara g from Rossaveal (091-568 903);
sacked by Cromwell’s forces. In from Doolin (Easter–Sep: 065-707
the 18th century, Galway fell Co. Galway. @ to Clifden or Letterfrack. 4455). n Kilronan, Inishmore (099-
into decline, but in recent years, n Mar–Oct: Galway Road, Clifden 61263). Heritage Center: Open daily.
its fortunes have revived (095-21163). National Park Visitors’ = & 7
through high-tech industries. Center: Tel 095-41 054. Open Mar–Oct:
The city stands on the banks daily. - 7 ∑ connemaranational Inishmore, Inishmaan, and
of the Corrib River. Many of the park.ie Kylemore Abbey: Tel 095-52 Inisheer, the three Aran Islands,
best stores, pubs, theaters, and 001. Open daily. & 8 compulsory. are formed from a limestone
historic sights are packed into ∑ kylemoreabbeytourism.ie ridge. The largest, Inishmore, is
the narrow lanes of the “Latin 13 km (8 miles) long and 3 km
Quarter” around Quay Street. This wild region, to the west of (2 miles) wide. The attractions of
Galway, encompasses bogs, the islands include the austere
mountains, and rugged Atlantic land scape crisscrossed with dry-
coastline. The small market town stone walls, stunning coastal
of Clifden is a convenient and views, and prehistoric stone forts.
popular base for exploring. The islands are a bastion of
Starting from Clifden, the Sky traditional Irish culture, with most
Road is an 11 km (7 mile) of the islanders engaged in fishing,
circular route with spectacular farming, or tourism. Ferries sail at
ocean views. South of Clifden, least once a day in winter and
the coast road to Roundstone several times daily in summer. Cars
skirts a massive bog, impromptu cannot be taken to the islands.
landing site of the first At Kilronan on Inishmore,
transatlantic flight made by jaunting cars (ponies and traps)
Alcock and Brown in 1919. and minibuses wait by the pier
Connemara National Park, to give tours; bicycles can also
near Letterfrack, includes some be hired. Nearby, the Aran
spectacular scenery, dominated Heritage Centre is dedicated to
by the mountains known as the the disappearing Aran way of
Twelve Bens. Here, visitors have life. The islands are famous for
Colorful storefronts lining Quay Street in a chance to spot red deer and their distinctive knitwear and
Galway’s “Latin Quarter” the famous Connemara ponies. traditional costumes.




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132  BRIT AIN AND IRELAND

Northern Ireland University, to the south of the
city, has two major attractions
The province of Northern Ireland was created after the in the Ulster Museum and the
partition of the island in 1921. Its six counties (plus Donegal, Botanic Gardens. The museum
Monaghan, and Cavan, which became part of the Republic) covers all aspects of Ulster, from
were part of Ulster, one of Ireland’s four traditional kingdoms. archaeology to technology. Its
treasures include jewelry from
Though densely populated and industrialized around Belfast, the Girona, a Spanish Armada
away from the capital the region is primarily agricultural. It ship that sank off the Giant’s
also has areas of outstanding natural beauty, notably the Causeway in 1588.
rugged Antrim coastline around the Giant’s Causeway.
E Titanic Belfast
Queen’s Rd. Tel 028-9076 6386.
stands close by. Sights in and Open daily. Closed Dec 24–26. &
around the square include the 8 7 - = ∑ titanicbelfast.com
Linen Hall Library, the late-
Victorian Grand Opera House E Ulster Museum
in Great Victoria Street, and Botanic Gardens. Tel 0845-608 000.
Open 10am–5pm Tue–Sun. 8 -
Belfast’s most famous pub, the = 7 ∑ nmni.com
Crown Liquor Saloon, which
dates back to the 1880s.
Mosaic of St. Patrick’s journey to Ireland, The Neo-Romanesque u Giant’s
Belfast Cathedral Belfast Cathedral, in
Donegall Street, is the Causeway
y Belfast Protestant cathedral, Co. Antrim. £ to Portrush.
Co. Antrim. * 500,000. k £ @ consecrated in 1904. @ from Portrush, Bushmills,
n 9 Donegal Square (028-9024 The interior is or Coleraine. Visitors’ Center:
6609). _ Belfast Film Festival (Apr); remarkable for the (028-2073 1855). Open daily.
Balmoral Show (May); Belfast vast mosaics added - 8 on request. 7
International Arts Festival (Oct). by the two Misses limited. ∑ nationaltrust.
∑ visit-belfast.com Martin in the 1920s. org.uk/giants-causeway
Lord Carson (1854–
Belfast was the only city in 1935), implacable The bizarre regularity
Ireland to experience the full opponent of Home of the Giant’s
force of the Industrial Revolution. Rule, is buried in Causeway’s basalt
Its shipbuilding, linen, rope- the south aisle. Detail of Titanic Memorial columns has made
making, and tobacco industries Across the water, outside Belfast City Hall it the subject of
caused the population to rise to Titanic Belfast tells numerous legends.
almost 400,000 by the end of the story of the famous ship. The most popular tells how the
World War I. The wealth it enjoyed Away from the center, Belfast giant, Finn MacCool, laid the
is still evident in its imposing has pleasant suburbs unaffected causeway to provide a path
public buildings. The Troubles by the civil strife of the Troubles. across the sea to Scotland so
and the decline of traditional The area around Queen’s that he could do battle with
industries have damaged its
economic life, but Belfast
remains a handsome city.
The cross-community desire
for peace is palpable, with
many new restaurants and
clubs and a thriving arts scene.
Most of Belfast’s main streets
(and bus routes) radiate out
from Donegall Square. In its
center stands the Portland stone
bulk of the 1906 City Hall, with
its huge central copper dome.
Statues around the building
include Queen Victoria at the
front and, on the east side, Sir
Edward Harland, founder of the
Harland and Wolff shipyard,
which built the Titanic. A
memorial to those who died
when the ship sank in 1912 The ornate Victorian interior of the Crown Liquor Saloon
For hotels and restaurants see p138 and p139


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IRELAND  133






















The extraordinarily regular columns of the Giant’s Causeway, exposed at low tide
a rival Scottish giant. The main claim to fame is whiskey. centuries. It also shows
geological explanation is that 61 The Old Bushmills plant prides what became of them,
million years ago, in a series of itself on being the oldest following stories of both
volcanic eruptions, molten lava distilery in the world, its “Grant fortune and failure.
poured from narrow fissures in to Distil” dating from 1608. The park has more than
the ground, filling in the valleys. In 1974, Bushmills joined the 30 historic buildings, some of
The basalt lava cooled rapidly. In Irish Distillers Group, based at them original, some replicas.
the process, it shrank and the Midleton plant near There are settler homesteads,
cracked evenly into poly­ Cork (see p128), but its a mass house, a post office, a
gonal blocks. Towards brands have retained schoolhouse, and a forge, some
the end of the Ice their distinctive with craft displays, all with
Age, erosion by sea character. “Old costumed interpretative guides.
ice exposed the Bushmills” is There’s also an Ulster streetscape,
rocks and shaped the unusual in that a reconstructed emigrant ship,
Causeway. Most of the it is made from a and a Pennsylvania farmstead,
columns are hexagonal, blend of single malt complete with log barn, corn
but some have four, five, Whiskey barrel at and a single grain. The crib, and smokehouse. The six­
eight, or even ten sides. Old Bushmills tour of the distilery, roomed farmhouse is based
They are gene rally about which features audio­ on one built by Thomas Mellon
30 cm (12 in) across. There are, in visual displays, ends with a and his father in the early years
fact, three causeways: the Grand, sampling session in the “1608 of their new life in America.
Middle, and Little. Distinctive Bar,” which is housed in the The Centre for Migration
features have been given poetic former malt kilns. Studies assists the descendants
names, such as the “Honeycomb” of emigrants in tracing their
and the “Wishing Chair.” o Ulster-American family roots. Popular American
Tourists arrive by the busload festivals, such as Halloween
from the visitors’ center, but it is Folk Park and Independence Day, are
easy to escape the crowds by Co. Tyrone. Tel 028­8224 3292. celebrated at the park.
taking one of the coastal paths. @ from Omagh. Open 10am–5pm
Tue–Sun (Oct–Feb: to 4pm). & =
i Old Bushmills 0 7 ∑ nmni.com
Distillery One of the best open­air
Bushmills, Co. Antrim. Tel 028­2073 museums of its kind, the Folk
3218. @ from Giant’s Causeway & Park grew up around the
Coleraine. Open daily (pm only Sun). restored boyhood home of
Closed Good Fri pm, Jul 12, 2 weeks Judge Thomas Mellon (founder
at Christmas. & = 8 obligatory. of the Pittsburgh banking
0 7 limited. ∑ bushmills.com dynasty). The park’s permanent
exhibition, called “Emigrants,”
Bushmills has an attractive examines why two million
square and an excellent river for people left Ulster for America Pennsylvania log farmhouse at the
salmon and trout fishing, but its during the 18th and 19th Ulster-American Folk Park




132-133_EW_Europe.indd 133 14/07/16 10:13 am

134  BRIT AIN AND IRELAND

Practical & Travel Information Ireland uses British currency –
pounds sterling (£). These
Ireland’s capital cities compare favorably to any in Europe currencies are not inter-
for ease of transportation and communications, but in changeable. Alongside the
remoter areas, the pace of life is slower. In the most isolated Bank of England currency in
parts, public transportation can be infrequent. The division the North, four provincial
banks issue their own notes,
of Ireland into the Republic and Northern Ireland, with for use only in the province.
separate currencies and communication systems, Banking hours are from
complicates matters further. 10am to 4pm, although some
banks close for lunch from
12:30 to 1:30pm.
Tourist Information few other large towns. Tourist
Before leaving for Ireland, you offices and hoteliers will gladly Communications
can get information from the point out the areas to be
Fáilte Ireland (Irish Tourist avoided. In Northern Ireland, the Main post offices in the Republic
Board) or Northern Ireland main security risk in the past and Northern Ireland are usually
Tourist Board (NITB) offices. was the threat of bombings, open from 9am to 5:30pm during
Regional tourist offices provide though even at the height of the week and from 9am to 1pm
more detailed information, the Troubles, this hardly ever on Saturdays. The postal service
including accommodations. affected tourists. Since the Good in Northern Ireland is much faster
In summer, all the sights are Friday Agreement, security than in the Republic, where it can
open, but crowds are naturally incidents are very rare. Visitors take at least five days for a letter
at their biggest. In winter, many may find, on the rare occasion, to reach the United States.
sights keep shorter hours or they are confronted by a police Most phones in the Republic
open only at the weekend and checkpoint. If you see a sign are operated by Eircom, and in
some close down completely. indicating a checkpoint ahead, Northern Ireland, by British
slow down and use low beams. Telecom. Both offer efficient,
Have your passport handy as up-to-date card- and coin-
Visa Requirements
proof of identity. operated public phones.
Visitors from EU member states, Travel insurance for the UK Internet cafés are common,
the US, Canada, Australia, and will not cover you for the even in small towns, and most
New Zealand need a valid Republic, so make sure you hotels and cafés will offer their
passport, but not a visa, for purchase an adequate customers complimentary Wi-Fi.
entry into the Republic or insurance policy.
Northern Ireland. UK nationals The police are called the Flying to Ireland
do not need a passport to enter Gardaí in the Republic and the
the Republic, but may find one Police Service of Northern Flights from most of the large
useful as proof of identity. Ireland (PSNI) in the north. European cities arrive at Dublin
Airport. The major airlines
operating between Britain and
Safety and Emergencies Banking and Currency
the Republic are Aer Lingus
Ireland is one of the safest The currency in the Republic is and budget rival Ryanair, which
places to travel in Europe. Petty the euro (see p23). All euro notes is based in Ireland. Aer Lingus
theft, such as pick pocketing, is and coins are exchangeable in flies direct from the US to
seldom a problem outside each of the participating Shannon Airport, 16 km
certain parts of Dublin and a Eurozone countries. Northern (10 miles) outside Limerick, as
well as to Dublin. Aeroflot flies
The Climate of Ireland from Shannon to Moscow via
DUBLIN Amsterdam or Dublin.
Rain can be the scourge of There are flights for pilgrims
a holiday in Ireland, especially to Knock International Airport
on the west coast. However, °C/ºF from Dublin, London Stansted,
strong winds off the Atlantic Manchester Airport, and others.
mean that the weather often 19/67 13/56 Cork airport is served by flights
changes with astonishing 12/53 11/51 7/45 7/45 from London (Gatwick,
speed. Though the rainfall is 3/38 2/35 Heathrow, and Stansted), as well
heavy, winters are mild and 5 5 3 2 as most British airports and
there is little snowfall except hrs hrs hrs hrs many European destinations.
on the higher mountains. 46 52 67 69
Dublin and the sheltered mm mm mm mm From Belfast, United Airlines
east coast have the warmest month Apr Jul Oct Jan fly direct to the US, while both
climate and least rainfall. Flybe and easyJet fly to most
airports in Britain, as well as to
many European destinations.



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IRELAND  135

Arriving by Sea Rail Travel express links between all major
Ferries from ports in Britain and Although the more rural areas in towns. A “Rambler” ticket allows
France are a popular way of the Republic are not served by a period of unlimited bus travel
getting to Ireland, especially rail, Irish Rail (Iarnród Éireann) in the Republic. In the North, a
with groups or families operates a service to most large “Freedom of Northern Ireland”
intending to tour the country towns. Dublin has two main train ticket offers the same benefits.
by car. There are large seasonal stations: Connolly serves the Taxis in Ireland range from
variations in fares, but discounts north and the line south along saloon cars to people carriers.
may be available when making the coast to Rosslare; Heuston The most likely places to find
online bookings. serves Cork and the southwest, taxis are at train and bus stations,
Irish Ferries and Stena Line and Galway and the west. hotels, and taxi stands.
operate regular crossings from Dublin’s local railroad service,
Holyhead, Pembroke, and the DART (Dublin Area Rapid
Fishguard in Wales to Dublin Transit), links towns between Car Rental
Port, Dun Laoghaire, and Malahide (County Dublin) and Car-rental firms do good
Rosslare. The fastest routes Greystones (County Wicklow) business, so in summer it is wise
take about 1 hour 40 minutes. with the center. The Luas to book ahead. Car rental –
There are also Irish Ferries tramline runs from Dublin city particularly in the Republic –
services from Holyhead to center to the inland suburbs. can be expensive and the best
Dublin and to Rosslare from There are two main routes rates are often obtained by
Cherbourg and Roscoff. out of Belfast: a line westward reserving in advance online.
From Scotland, both Stena to Londonderry, and Ireland’s Broker companies, such as
Line and P&O Ferries have only cross-border service, a Holiday Autos in the UK, will
crossings from Cairnryan high-speed service linking shop around to get the best
(Stranraer) to Larne (north of Belfast and Dublin. deal. If you intend to cross the
Belfast), taking around 2 hours border in either direction, you
15 minutes; P&O Ferries also must inform the rental
cross from Troon to Larne, Buses and Taxis company, as there may be an
taking about the same time. The Republic’s national bus additional insurance premium.
You can buy combined company, Bus Éireann, runs In both the Republic and
coach/ferry and train/ferry routes to all cities and most Northern Ireland, motorists
tickets from coach offices or towns. Ulsterbus runs a service drive on the left, as in Great
train stations all over Britain. in Northern Ireland, with Britain (see p101).
DIRECTORY
Tourist Boards Canada easyJet Stena Line
7–8 Wilton Terrace, Tel 0870-6000 000 (UK). Tel 01-907 5555.
Fáilte Ireland Dublin 2. ∑ easyjet.com Tel 0844-770 7070 (UK).
Baggot St Bridge, Tel 01-234 4000. Flybe ∑ stenaline.co.uk
Dublin 2. Tel 01-602 4000. UK ∑ flybe.com Rail Travel
29 Merrion Rd,
US: 345 Park Avenue,
Dublin 4. Ryanair Irish Rail (Iarnród
New York, NY 10154. Tel 01-205 3700. Tel 1520 444 004. Éireann)
Tel 1800-223 6470. Tel 0871-246 000 (UK). Tel 01-836 6222.
US ∑ irishrail.ie
∑ discoverireland.ie 42 Elgin Rd, ∑ ryanair.com
Ballsbridge, Dublin 4. Northern Ireland
Northern Ireland Tel 01-668 8777. United Airlines Railways
Tourist Board Tel 1800-864 8331 (US). Tel 028-9066 6630.
St. Anne’s Court, 59 North Emergency ∑ united.com ∑ translink.co.uk
St, Belfast BT1 1NB. Services Ferry Companies Bus Companies
Tel 028-9023 1221. Police, Ambulance, Bus Éireann
∑ discovernorthern and Fire services Irish Ferries Tel 01-836 6111.
Tel 999. Tel 0818-300 400. ∑ buseireann.ie
ireland.com
(Republic and NI). Tel 08717-300 400 (UK). Ulsterbus/Translink
Embassies Airlines ∑ irishferries.com Tel 028-9066 6630.
∑ translink.co.uk
P&O Ferries
Australia Aer Lingus Car Rental
Tel 1890 800 600 Tel 01-686 9467
7th Floor, Fitzwilton (Republic).
Tel 0333 004 5000 (UK). Holiday Autos
House, Wilton Terrace, Tel 516 622 4222 (US). Tel 0808-130 0030 (UK). Tel 020-3740 9859 (UK).
Dublin 2. Tel 01-664 5300. ∑ aerlingus.com ∑ poferries.com ∑ holidayautos.ie


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136  BRIT AIN AND IRELAND

Shopping & Entertainment Entertainment Venues
In many Irish cities, the main
Ireland offers a wide range of quality handmade goods, theaters host a wide range of
including Aran sweaters, Waterford crystal, fine Irish linen, and concerts, events, and plays. In
Donegal tweed. As with its produce, the best entertainment central Belfast, the Grand Opera
is local and highly individual. Ireland’s cities are well served House and Lyric Theatre put on
an interesting program. Dublin’s
by theaters, movie theatres, and concert venues, but there two most famous theaters, the
are many other local events, including arts festivals with Abbey and Gate Theatre, are
traditional music and dance. Not to be overlooked is the renowned for their productions
entertainment provided by a night in an Irish pub. Finally, of Irish and international plays, as
the beautiful countryside offers the chance to unwind by is the Cork Opera House.
Keep an eye out for smaller
walking, riding, fishing, or playing a round of golf.
theater groups around the
country. The Druid Theatre in
Galway puts on an original
Where to Shop to Celtic times, distinctive repertoire, and Waterford boasts
The choice of places to shop in jewelry is produced all over a resident drama company at
Ireland ranges from tiny Ireland. The Claddagh ring of the Garter Lane Arts Centre.
workshops to large factory Galway is the most famous. It is Other venues for classical
outlets, and from chic boutiques a symbol of friendship, love, and music include Dublin’s great
to high-street chain stores. loyalty, and features two hands auditorium, the National Concert
In Dublin, the Temple Bar area cradling a crowned heart. Hall, the Crawford Art Gallery in
contains a number of Aran sweaters are sold all Cork, and the Ulster Hall in Belfast.
fashionable craft stores. One of over Ireland, but particularly The Waterford Festival of
the largest shopping centers in in County Galway and on the Light Opera and the Wexford
the city is St. Stephen’s Green Aran Islands. A well-known Festival of Opera attract opera
Shopping Centre, full of clothes outlet for these and other lovers from around the world.
and craft shops. Near Grafton knitwear products is Blarney Wexford revives neglected operas
Street is the Powerscourt Woollen Mills. Donegal tweed while Waterford puts on more
Townhouse Shopping Centre. is a byword for quality, noted mainstream operas and musicals.
for its texture and subtle colors. Dublin’s main opera venue is the
It can be bought at Magee 19th-century Gaiety Theatre,
Crafts
of Donegal. while the Bord Gáis Energy
Crafts are a flourishing way of Damask linen was brought to Theatre in the Docklands hosts
life in rural Ireland. The Crafts Northern Ireland in the late 17th mostly musicals.
Council of Ireland, which has century by Huguenot refugees. Rock concerts are held in the
branches in Kilkenny and The North is still the place for 3Arena or at the many outdoor
Dublin, can recommend linen, with sheets, table linen, sites during the summer.
good small-scale specialist stores. and other fabrics available from Die-hard rock and jazz fans
Outlets particularly worth Thomas Ferguson Irish Linen. should search out the musical
visiting include the Kilkenny Smoked salmon, farmhouse pubs for Irish bands.
Design Centre and Bricín, which cheeses, handmade preserves,
sell a wide selection of items. and, of course, Irish whiskey Irish Music and Dance
Established in 19th-century make perfect last-minute gifts.
Ulster, the Belleek Pottery The Irish pub has helped keep
produces creamy china with traditional music alive and
intricately worked decorative Entertainment Listings provided the setting for the
and Tickets
motifs, such as shamrocks and musical revival that began in
flowers. Royal Tara China, in The tourist board for the the 1960s. Nights of Irish music
Galway, is Ireland’s leading fine- Republic, Fáilte Ireland, and the and song are scheduled in pubs,
bone-china manufacturer, with Northern Ireland Tourist Board such as Johnnie Fox’s in Dublin,
designs inspired by Celtic themes. (see p135) both publish a yearly and The Laurels in Killarney.
Waterford Crystal is Calendar of Events that lists major However, sessions of informal or
undoubtedly the most famous fixtures and events around the impromptu music are
name in Irish glass-making, but country. The regional tourist offices commonplace. Wherever you
there are many other names of also provide local information. are, the locals will advise you of
similar quality. Galway Irish Tickets are often available the nearest musical pubs.
Crystal is an excellent make, on the night, but it is safer Popular dance spectaculars
available as elegant ornaments to book in advance. Most have raised the profile, if not the
and gifts. Jerpoint Abbey in venues will accept credit understanding, of real Irish
County Kilkenny inspires stylish card bookings. Visit www. country dance. Visit Comhaltas
local designs by Jerpoint Glass. visitdublin.com for information Ceoltóirí Éireann, in Monkstown
With a tradition that dates back about the city’s nightlife. near Dublin, or any of its




136-137_EW_Europe.indd 136 14/07/16 10:13 am

IRELAND  137


branches around the country times. In the countryside, pubs green turf and racing is a
for genuine traditional music provide an important focus for national passion. A day at the
and dance nights all year. far-flung rural communities, and track during Galway Race Week
some even double as stores. in July is a great social event.
Pubs vary greatly throughout Those who want to do more
Irish Festivals
the country, so be sure to try than just watch should try
The Irish are expert festival out a few wherever you visit. horseback riding through the
organizers, staging a week of Dublin is famed for its literary unspoiled countryside.
street entertainment, theater, pubs; the Dublin Literary Pub Another way to experience
music, and dance to celebrate Crawl is an entertaining way to the countryside is to take a river
almost everything under the get a feel for the city’s booze- or canal cruise. Emerald Star
sun (see Directory for listings). fueled literary heritage. Music has a fleet of cruisers for use on
sessions are common in the pubs the waterways. Alternatively,
of Kilkenny and County Clare. you may want to play golf at
Irish Pubs Some of the most picturesque one of Ireland’s beautiful golf
The Irish pub is known for its establish ments are in Cork and courses, or try some fishing.
convivial atmosphere and the Kerry. Galway’s tourists and Maps and locations for fishing
“craic” – the Irish expression for student population guarantee are available from the Central
fun. Wit is washed down with a lively pub atmosphere. Fisheries Board. The Golfing
the national drinks of whiskey Union of Ireland can advise on
or Guinness. golf courses.
City pubs often have grand Outdoor Activities Detailed information on a wide
interiors, a testament to the No matter where you are in range of outdoor activities is
importance of the brewing and Ireland, the countryside is never available from Fáilte Ireland (see
distiling industries in Victorian far away. Horses thrive on the p135), and local tourist offices.
DIRECTORY
Crafts Entertainment Grand Opera House Kilkenny Arts Festival
Venues Great Victoria St, Belfast. (Aug). 11 Patrick’s Court,
Belleek Pottery Tel 028-9024 1919. Patrick St, Kilkenny.
Belleek, Co. Fermanagh. Abbey Theatre Tel 056-776 3663.
Tel 028-6865 8501. Abbey St Lower, Lyric Theatre
Blarney Woollen Mills Dublin 1. Tel 028-9038 1081. Waterford Festival
Blarney, Co. Cork. Tel 01-878 7222. ∑ lyrictheatre.co.uk of Light Opera
Tel 021-451 6111. National Concert Hall (late Sep–Oct). Theatre
Bord Gáis Energy Royal. Tel 051-874 402.
Bricín Theatre Earlsfort Terrace, Dublin 2.
26 High Street, Killarney, Grand Canal Square, Tel 01-417 0000. Wexford Festival
Co. Kerry. Tel 064-663 4902. Docklands, Dublin 2. 3Arena of Opera
Galway Irish Crystal Tel 01-677 7999. North Wall Quay, Dublin 1. (Oct–Nov). Wexford
Opera House.
Merlin Park, Galway. Tel 01-819 8888. Tel 053-912 2144.
Tel 091-757 311. Cork Opera House Ulster Hall
Emmet Place, Cork.
Jerpoint Glass Tel 021-427 0022. Bedford St, Belfast. Irish Pubs
Stoneyford, Co. Kilkenny. Tel 028-9033 4455.
Tel 056-772 4350. Crawford Art Gallery Dublin Literary Pub
Emmet Place, Cork. Music, Dance, Crawl
Kilkenny Design and Festivals 9 Duke St.
Centre Tel 0214-480 5042. Tel 01-670 5602.
Castle Yard, Kilkenny. Druid Theatre Comhaltas Ceoltóirí
Tel 056-772 2118. Flood St, Galway. Éireann Outdoor
Magee of Donegal Tel 091-568 660. 32 Belgrave Sq, Activities
The Diamond, Donegal. Gaiety Theatre Monkstown, Co. Dublin.
Tel 073-22660. Tel 01-280 0295. Central Fisheries
South King St, Dublin 2. Board
Royal Tara China Tel 0818-719 388. Dublin Theatre Tel 01-884 2600.
Tara Hall, Mervue, Galway. Festival ∑ fishinginireland.info
Tel 091-705 602. Garter Lane Arts Assorted drama (Sep/Oct).
Centre Emerald Star
Thomas Ferguson 22A O’Connell St, 44 East Essex St, Dublin 2.
Irish Linen Tel 01-677 8439. The Marina, Carrick-on-
54 Scarva Road, Banbridge. Waterford. Galway Arts Festival Shannon, Co. Leitrim.
Tel 028-4062 3491. Tel 051-855 038. Theater, music, and dance Tel 071-962 7633.
Waterford Crystal Gate Theatre (Jul). Black Box Theatre, Golfing Union of
28 The Mall, Waterford. Cavendish Row, Dublin 1. Dyke Rd, Galway. Ireland
Tel 051-317 000. Tel 01-874 4045. Tel 091-509 700. ∑ golfnet.ie


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138  IRELAND

Where to Stay

Price Guide
Dublin Prices are based on one night’s stay in
high season for a standard double room,
NORTH OF THE LIFFEY: inclusive of service charges and taxes.
Gresham Hotel €€€ € up to €80
Modern Map D2 €€ €80 to €180
23 O’Connell St Upper, Dublin 1 €€€ over €180
Tel 01-874 6881
∑ gresham-hotels.com DINGLE: Greenmount House €€
One of Dublin’s oldest and Modern
best-known hotels, the Gresham Upper John St, Dingle, Co. Kerry
offers cheerful, well-equipped Tel 066-915 1414
bedrooms with classic and ∑ greenmounthouse.ie
contemporary furnishings. Elegantly decorated rooms and
suites overlooking the harbor,
NORTH OF THE LIFFEY: and an award-winning breakfast.
The Morrison €€€
Boutique Map C3 KILKENNY: Langton
Ormond Quay, Dublin 1 House Hotel €€
Tel 01-887 2400 Boutique
∑ morrisonhotel.ie Georgian elegance and grandeur at The 69 John St
This luxurious hotel overlooking Merrion, southeast Dublin Tel 056-776 5133
the Liffey impresses with high ∑ langtons.ie
ceilings, dark woods, and DK Choice A friendly hotel full of character.
handcrafted Irish carpets. Excellent food and service.
FARTHER AFIELD:
SOUTHEAST DUBLIN: Portmarnock Hotel and LIMERICK: 1 Pery Square €€
Buswells €€€ Golf Links €€ Boutique
Historic Map E4 Modern 1 Pery Square, Georgian Quarter
25 Molesworth St, Dublin 2 Portmarnock, Co. Dublin Tel 061-402 402
Tel 01-614 6500 Tel 01-846 0611 ∑ oneperysquare.com
∑ buswells.ie ∑ portmarnock.com A Georgian townhouse with
Open since 1882, Buswells is A beautifully decorated grand modern and period-style rooms,
one of Dublin’s oldest hotels. old Victorian beachside house, plus a luxurious spa.
It is slightly old-fashioned, with with well-furnished rooms, an
a sophisticated interior. elegant, comfortable bar, and DK Choice
restaurants with epic views.
SOUTHEAST DUBLIN: There is also an 18-hole golf LOUGH ESKE:
The Merrion €€€ course and a luxury spa. Harvey’s Point €€€
Luxury Map E5 Luxury
Merrion St Upper, Dublin 2 Donegal Town, Co. Donegal
Tel 01-603 0600 Tel 074-972 2208
∑ merrionhotel.com ∑ harveyspoint.com
Georgian splendor in this luxurious, Rest of Ireland This Swiss-style hotel offers
expansive hotel. Guests enjoy palatial bedrooms overlooking
elegant interiors, roaring log fires, ARDMORE: Cliff House Hotel €€€ the lake, some with four-
and the indulgent Tethra spa. Luxury poster beds. Renowned for its
Middle Rd, Co. Waterford gourmet cuisine, the hotel’s
SOUTHWEST DUBLIN: Tel 024-87800 restaurant offers an international
Avalon House € ∑ thecliffhousehotel.com fine-dining experience.
Modern Map C4 Most rooms here have a balcony
55 Aungier St, Dublin 2 or terrace overlooking the sea. Spa
Tel 01-475 0001 and Michelin-starred restaurant. NEWCASTLE: Slieve
∑ avalon-house.ie Donard Resort €€
Stay in well-priced and cheerful BELFAST: Europa Hotel €€ Modern
accommodations in a restored Modern Downs Rd, Co. Down, BT33 0AH
redbrick Victorian building. Great Victoria St, Co. Antrim, BT2 7AP Tel 028-4372 1066
Clean dorms have pine floors Tel 028-9027 1066 ∑ hastingshotels.com
and high ceilings. ∑ hastingshotels.com A majestic redbrick hotel with
Classic hotel with an elegant bar, spectacular views, all the
SOUTHWEST DUBLIN: lounge, and two restaurants. comforts, and a golf course.
Brooks Hotel €€
Luxury Map D4 CASHEL: Cashel Palace Hotel €€ TRIM: Trim Castle Hotel €€€
59–62 Drury St, Dublin 2 Historic Modern
Tel 01-670 4000 Main St, Co. Tipperary Castle St, Co. Meath
∑ brookshotel.ie Tel 062-62707 Tel 046-948 3000
An immaculately maintained ∑ cashel-palace.ie ∑ trimcastlehotel.com
hotel with a great reputation. Set in a Queen Anne-style house Bright, spacious rooms, some
Contemporary flourishes and dating from 1730, with rooms overlooking the ruins of Trim
tasteful traditional decor. overlooking tranquil gardens. Castle. Friendly staff.
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TR A VELERS ’ NEEDS  139

Where to Eat and Drink

FARTHER AFIELD: Price Guide
Dublin Johnnie Fox’s €€ Prices are for a three-course meal for
Irish one, including half a bottle of house
NORTH OF THE LIFFEY: Glencullen, Co. Dublin wine, and all extra charges.
The Winding Stair €€ Tel 01-295 5647 € under €25
Irish Map C3 One of the oldest pubs in Ireland, €€ €25 to €50
40 Lower Ormond Quay, Dublin 1 Johnnie Fox’s is a friendly place €€€ over €50
Tel 01-872 7320 with hearty Irish food and
Located above an iconic traditional music. DINGLE: Lord Baker’s
bookstore, in a bright, high- Restaurant and Bar €€
ceilinged room, this restaurant Traditional
offers imaginative Irish fare made Main St, Co. Kerry
with artisanal ingredients. Rest of Ireland Tel 066-915 1277 Closed Thu
This ancient pub with stone walls
NORTH OF THE LIFFEY: BELFAST: Mourne and open fires serves dishes such
Chapter One €€€ Seafood Bar €€ as grilled sirloin in pepper sauce,
European Map C1 Irish and poached salmon with a
18–19 Parnell Square, Dublin 1 34–36 Bank St, Co. Antrim, BT1 1HL lemon butter sauce.
Tel 01-873 2266 Closed Sun & Mon; Tel 028-9024 8544 Closed Dec 24–26
first 2 wks Aug; Dec 24–Jan 8 A cozy bar-restaurant in the city GALWAY: Ard Bia at Nimmos €€
A Michelin-starred restaurant center. The food is terrific – fish International
in a cellar of the Dublin Writers from the morning’s catch and Spanish Arch, Co. Galway
Museum. Imaginative menu, shellfish from Mourne’s own Tel 091-561 114
and a popular pre-theater deal. beds in Carlingford Lough. A café by day and a restaurant
by night. This is the place for
DK Choice DK Choice hearty breakfasts and lunches.
SOUTHEAST DUBLIN: BLACKLION: MacNean KILKENNY: Campagne €€€
Avoca Restaurant €€ House & Bistro €€€ French
Irish Map E4 Irish 5 Gas House Ln.
11–13 Suffolk St, Dublin 2 Main St, Co. Cavan Tel 056-777 2858 Closed Mon except
Tel 01-672 6019 Tel 071-985 3022 Closed Mon & bank hols, Tue dinner after bank hols
This bright restaurant, atop an Tue Stylish restaurant serving French
iconic Irish craft store is always Weekends tend to be booked dishes made with locally sourced
busy. From imaginative salad out months in advance at this ingredients. Thoughtful wine list.
offerings and sandwiches culinary gem. Run by
to delicious hot dishes and renowned chef Neven Maguire DK Choice
irresistible desserts, it is worth and his wife Amelda, MacNean
the wait for a table. There is also House serves delicacies such as NEW QUAY: Linnane’s
a deli. Open for lunch only. wood pigeon with game Lobster Bar €€
terrine and ballotine of rabbit. It Traditional Seafood
also has a full vegetarian menu. The Pier, Co. Clare
SOUTHEAST DUBLIN: Tel 065-707 8120 Closed Winter:
Restaurant Patrick Guilbaud €€€ Mon–Thu; Good Friday, Dec 25
French Map E5 CORK: Café Paradiso €€€ Set on the shoreline, Linnane’s
21 Upper Merrion St, Dublin 2 Vegetarian enjoys stunning seascapes. On
Tel 01-676 4192 Closed Sun & Mon; 16 Lancaster Quay the menu is simple Irish fare:
bank hols; Dec 24–Jan 1 Tel 021-427 7939 Closed Sun; poached salmon with chive
The jewel of Dublin dining, Dec 24–Jan 1 cream sauce, steak in pepper
boasting two Michelin stars. Ireland’s most famous vegetarian sauce. There is also a pub with
Lunch is incredible value. restaurant serves many inventive open fires in the winter and
dishes. Even dedicated carnivores outdoor seating for the summer.
SOUTHWEST DUBLIN: Neon € will appreciate the food here.
Asian Map C5
17 Camden St, Dublin 2
Tel 01-405 2222
Healthy and tasty Asian street
food is served in bright, lively,
and fun surroundings. Free ice-
cream cones for dessert.
SOUTHWEST DUBLIN:
Queen of Tarts €€
Café Map C3
4 Cork Hill, Dame St, Dublin 2
Tel 01-670 7499
This cozy French-style café
opposite Dublin Castle serves
soups, sandwiches, and an array
of sweet and savory tarts. The informal, relaxed interior of Café Paradiso, a vegetarian restaurant in Cork


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FRANCE AND

THE LOW


COUNTRIES





France and the Low Countries
at a Glance 142–143
France 144–211

Belgium and Luxembourg 212–235
The Netherlands 236–261















































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142  FR ANCE AND THE L OW C OUNTRIES

France and the Low
Countries at a Glance Groningen
France dominates the northwest of continental Europe.
To the northeast of France lie Belgium and the NETHERLANDS
Netherlands, known as the Low Countries because (see pp236–61)
they occupy flat plains and land reclaimed from the Amsterdam
sea. South of Belgium is the tiny state of Luxembourg.
France has some of Europe’s greatest attractions, Rotterdam
notably the culture and nightlife of Paris. Visitors often
choose to tour just one or two of the country’s regions:
the mountains of the Alps or the Pyrenees, one of the Paris (see pp150–71), France’s
capital, is a city of distinctive
historic wine-growing areas, or the warm south. districts. Montmartre, the Brussels
Belgium and the Netherlands have many historic cities hilltop artists’ quarter, is Liège
full of fine museums and art galleries. Visiting these dominated by the Lille
countries can be rewarding because all the major Sacré-Coeur. BELGIUM AND
sights lie within easy reach of each other. Amiens LUXEMBOURG
(see pp212–35)
Cherbourg
Luxembourg
Rouen
Reims
Metz
Paris
St. Malo
Nancy
Chartres Strasbourg
Rennes
Troyes
Orléans

The Loire Valley (see pp176–9) Nantes Dijon
is one of France’s most popular Besançon
regions for touring. It is dotted
with magnificent châteaux, built
by kings and nobles during the
Renaissance. One of the finest Poitiers
is Chenonceau. FRANCE
(see pp144–211)

Limoges Lyon
Clermont-
Ferrand
Grenoble
Bordeaux




Avignon
Southwest France (see pp188–9) has a huge variety
of attractions, from the peaks of the Pyrenees to
Atlantic seaside resorts, such as Biarritz, and the Toulouse Montpellier
world-famous vineyards of Bordeaux (see p186). Biarritz Nice
Marseille
0 km 75
0 miles 75
Perpignan
Avenue des Champs-Elysees from Arc de Triomphe at sunset, Paris



142-143_EW_Europe.indd 142 14/07/16 10:44 am

A T A GLANCE  143




Groningen

NETHERLANDS
(see pp236–61)
Amsterdam
Locator Map
Rotterdam

Amsterdam (see pp240–51)
is a unique city, criss-crossed
Brussels by canals, its relaxed
Liège atmosphere a refreshing
Lille change from Europe’s other
BELGIUM AND traffic-clogged capital cities.
LUXEMBOURG
Amiens (see pp212–35)
Brussels (see pp216–23),
Cherbourg the capital of Belgium,
Luxembourg thrives as the head-
Rouen quarters of the
Reims European Union. The
Metz Grand Place, with
Paris its soaring Gothic
St. Malo town hall, is one
Nancy of Europe’s most
Chartres Strasbourg spectacular squares.
Rennes
Troyes
Orléans

Nantes Dijon
Besançon

Poitiers
FRANCE
(see pp144–211)

Limoges Lyon
Clermont- Dijon (see pp184–5) flourished in the Middle Ages
Ferrand under the powerful dukes of Burgundy. The former
palace where the dukes held court now houses the
prestigious Musée des Beaux Arts, with its rich
Grenoble collection of art and sculpture.
Bordeaux
The South of France
(see pp190–97) is one
of the traditional
Avignon playgrounds of
Europe’s rich and
famous, where grand
Toulouse hotels, luxury yachts, and
Biarritz Montpellier Nice pristine beaches contrast
Marseille with picturesque
old fishing ports.
Perpignan





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144-147_EW_Europe.indd 144 14/07/16 10:09 am

FR ANCE AND THE L OW C OUNTRIES  145


FRANCE


The best advocates for visiting France are the French themselves, convinced as
they are that their way of life is best, and their country the most civilized on
earth. The food and wine are justly celebrated, while French literature, art,
cinema, and architecture can be both profound and provocative. France is a
country that stimulates the intellect and gratifies the senses.


France belongs to both northern and Champagne, and Cognac; today, these
southern Europe, encompassing regions have been overtaken by chemicals,
ranging from Brittany, with its Celtic industrial machinery, telecommunications
maritime heritage, and Germanic Alsace- equipment, and fighter aircraft. The French
Lorraine, to the Mediterranean sunbelt and remain firmly committed to their roots,
the peaks of the Alps and Pyrenees. The however, and often keep a place in the
capital, Paris, is the country’s linchpin, with country for vacations or their retirement.
its intellectual excitement, intense tempo
of life, and notoriously brusque citizens. History
Strangely, as life in France becomes more Though famous for the rootedness of its
city-based and industrialized, so the desire peasant population, France has also been
grows to safeguard the old, traditional a European melting pot, from the arrival of
ways and to value rural life. The idea of life the Celtic Gauls in the 1st millennium BC
in the country – douceur de vivre (the Good through to the Mediterranean immigrations
Life), long tables set in the sun for the wine of the 20th century. Roman conquest by
and anecdotes to flow – is as seductive as Julius Caesar had an enduring impact
ever for residents and visitors alike. but, from the 4th and 5th centuries AD,
Nevertheless, the rural way of life has been Germanic invaders destroyed much of the
changing. Whereas in 1945 one person in Roman legacy. The Franks provided political
three worked in farming, today it is only leadership in the following centuries, but
one in 20. France’s main exports used to when their line died out in the late 10th
be luxury goods, such as perfumes, century, France was politically fragmented.

























Rouen, a city on the river Seine in Normandy
The iconic monastery of Mont St-Michel in Normandy, northwestern France



144-147_EW_Europe.indd 145 14/07/16 10:09 am

146  FR ANCE AND THE L OW C OUNTRIES

The Capetian dynasty gradually pieced undermined the authority of the Church
France together over the Middle Ages, and the state, nowhere more than in
a period of economic prosperity and France itself. The Revolution of 1789
cultural vitality. The Black Death and the ended the absolute monarchy and
Hundred Years’ War brought setbacks, introduced major social and institutional
and French power was seriously reforms, many of which were
threatened by the dukes of endorsed by Napoleon, whose
Burgundy and the English crown. empire dominated Europe at
In the Renaissance period, the start of the 19th century.
François I (reigned 1515–47) Yet the Revolution also
dreamt of making France a major inaugurated the instability
power, but was thwarted by the that has remained a hallmark
Habsburg Emperor Charles V. The of French politics: since 1789,
Reformation then plunged the France has seen three forms of
country into religious conflict. monarchy, two empires, and
However, the 17th century saw Napoleon, the brilliant five republics.
France, under Louis XIV, rise general who rose to be Throughout the political
Emperor of France
to dominate Europe militarily turmoil of the 19th century,
and intellectually. France remained a leading
In the Age of Enlightenment, French source of literary and artistic movements.
culture and institutions were the envy of In painting, the French Impressionists
Europe. The ideas of Voltaire and Rousseau were the inspiration for the development of
modern art, and would-be painters began
KEY DATES IN FRENCH HISTORY to flock to Paris instead of Rome. France also
1200–700 BC Arrival of the Celts during the Bronze retained its position as the arbiter of taste
and Iron Ages in fashion, food, wine, and good manners.
51 BC Romans complete conquest of Gaul Rivalry with Germany dominated French
AD 481 Frankish leader Clovis becomes first politics for most of the late 19th and early
Merovingian king 20th centuries. The population losses in
800 Coronation of Charlemagne, greatest of the World War I were traumatic for France,
Carolingians, as Holy Roman Emperor
1180–1223 Reign of Philip Augustus while during 1940–44 the country was
occupied by Germany. Yet since 1955, the
1337–1453 Hundred Years’ War with England
1562–93 Wars of Religion two countries have proved the backbone
1660–1715 Reign of Louis XIV of the developing European Union.
1789 French Revolution Modern Politics
1804 Napoleon crowned emperor
1815 Defeat of Napoleon: monarchy restored For much of the 20th century, domestic
politics was marked by confrontations
1848 Revolution; short-lived Second Republic
1852–70 Second Empire under Napoleon III
1919 Treaty of Versailles after World War I
1940 Germans overrun France
1958 Fifth Republic with president Charles de Gaulle
1968 Student uprising and de Gaulle’s downfall
1994 Channel Tunnel opens
2002 Euro replaces Franc as legal tender
2010 Henry IV’s skull found; burial ceremony at
Basilica St. Denis in 2011
2012 New TGV line extends to Barcelona, Spain
The student uprising of May 1968, which challenged all the old
assumptions of the French ruling elite





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FR ANCE  147

Avant-garde art and literature and
modern architecture enjoy strong
patronage in France. Exciting architectural
projects range from new buildings in Paris
– the Louvre pyramid and La Grande
Arche at La Défense – to the post-modern
housing projects of Nîmes and Marseille in
the south.
Contemporary Society
Social change has resulted from the
decline in the influence of the Catholic
A French street café in the evening Church. Parental authoritarianism has
waned and there is a much freer
between Left and Right. In 1958, the ambiance in schools – two trends
problems of governing the country led to resulting from the May 1968 uprising.
the introduction of a new constitution – the French social life, except between close
Fifth Republic – with Charles de Gaulle as friends, has always been marked by
president. However, in 1968, protesting formality – handshaking, and the use of
students and striking workers combined titles and the formal vous rather than the
to paralyze the country and de Gaulle intimate tu. However, this is changing,
resigned the following year. especially among the young, who now
The old divide between Left and Right call you by your first name, and use tu
has given way to a more center-focused even in an office context. Standards of
consensus fostered by François dress have become more informal
Mitterrand, Socialist President too, though the French are still
from 1981 to 1995, and very keen to dress well.
forced on the Conservative France is a country where
Jacques Chirac, who tradition and progress are found
succeeded him, by the side by side. The Euro has
election of Socialist Tempting display of charcuterie and cheeses taken over, yet some people
on a Lyon market stall
Lionel Jospin as Prime still calculate in “new” Francs,
Minister in 1997. In 2002, however, a land- introduced back in 1960. France’s agri-
slide victory for the center-right coalition business is one of the most modern in the
ousted Jospin; the election of Nicolas world, but the peasant farmer is deeply
Sarkozy as President in 2007 confirmed revered. France has Europe’s largest hyper-
the center-right politics. However, in markets, which have been ousting local
2012, Sarkozy lost the presidency to the grocers. Although American in inspiration,
Socialist candidate François Hollande. they are French in what they sell, with
wonderful displays of cheeses and a huge
Language and Culture range of fresh vegetables, fruit, and herbs.
Culture is taken seriously in France:
writers, intellectuals, artists, and fashion
designers are held in high esteem. The
French remain justly proud of their films,
and are determined to defend it against
pressures from Hollywood. Other
activities – from the music industry to
the French language itself – are subject
to the same protectionist attitudes. The TGV, France’s impressive high-speed train




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148  FR ANCE AND THE L OW C OUNTRIES
UNITED Harwich
Exploring France KINGDOM NORTH
SEA
France is a large country and, although it has more LONDON
M2 Ramsgate
than 66 million inhabitants, is less densely populated Canterbury
than most of its western European neighbors. Paris A23 Folkestone Dover
belongs to northern Europe, while the south is Portsmouth Brighton Dunkerque Bruges
BELGIUM
Mediterranean in climate and lifestyle. Distances Newhaven Calais Ghent
limit the amount of the country you can visit, Boulogne Lille Brussels
though train services are good and there is Englis h Channel A26
an extensive network of highways. Popular Abbeville Arras Charleroi Brussels
tourist destinations include the châteaux D643
of the Loire, the mountains of the Alps and Dieppe A28 Amiens St-Quentin Frankfurt,
Cologne
Pyrenees, historic wine-growing regions Cherbourg Le Havre LUXEMBOURG
(see pp186–7), and the resorts of the N13 Rouen A16 D1017 A1 A26 LUXEMBOURG GERMANY
Côte d’Azur. Plymouth Plymouth, Bayeux A13
Weymouth Caen Mannheim
Cork A84 D163 A4 Reims D603 A4
Roscoff N154 Charles de Gaulle Châlons-sur-Marne Metz Karlsruhe
Mont-St-Michel A28 A13 PARIS
Brest N12 St-Malo Versailles N4 Nancy N4 A4 Rhein Stuttgart
N12 Orly A26
D976
N12 Chartres Seine Strasbourg
Quimper N12 Rennes Cathedral Fontainebleau A5 Troyes A31
N24 N157 A81 A11 A5 N59 A35
N165
Lorient N137 Le Mans Orléans D606
Carnac A10 A77
Château de A6 Mulhouse
Blois
A11 Angers Chambord A31
A28
St-Nazaire Basel
Nantes A87 Loire Tours Château de Vézelay
Abbaye de A85 Chenonceau N151 Dijon A36
Gijón Besançon
Fontevraud Bourges
A83
La Roche- D347 A10 D910 Beaune Bern, Zurich
sur-Yon F R A N C E
N137 A83 Poitiers Loire A6 SWITZERLAND
Niort A20 A71 N79 Lausanne
La Rochelle A40
A10 N7 Geneva
D941
N141
Bay Angoulême Limoges Clermont- Annecy
of A10 Ferrand A89 Lyon Milan
Biscay N21 A89 A43
N10 St-Etienne A41 A43
D6089 Périgueux Dordogne A7 A48 Grenoble Turin
Bordeaux N21 Lascaux A75 A49
N122 Valence
Arcachon A63 D813
Admiring the work of local artists on the D820 D840 Rhône A51 IT AL Y
quayside at St-Tropez A20 Rodez N88 A7
A63 Garonne N106
Golfe de A65 A62 Genoa
Gascogne A9 Avignon N85
A68 Albi A75 Nîmes A51 Ligurian
Key Bayonne Toulouse Montpellier Arles A7 Nice Monaco Sea
Biarritz Aix-en- Cote d'Azur
Highway A64 Camargue Provence Provence
Pau D6113
Major road Bilbao A64 Carcassonne Marseille A8 Cannes
Lourdes A50 A57 St-Tropez
Railroad A61 Golfe du Lion Toulon
Foix Iles
Channel Tunnel Pyrenees d'Hyères
International border SP AIN Zaragoza Perpignan A9 Bastia
ANDORRA MEDITERRANEAN SEA L’Ile Rousse
Calvi Corsica
Barcelona Ajaccio Ajaccio
For keys to symbols see back flap
148-149_EW_Europe.indd 148 14/07/16 2:23 pm