(DK Eyewitness) Travel Guide - Europe

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call Sapeurs Pompiers (the fire You will be asked to tap in your making long-distance calls
department), which offers a first- PIN code (code confidentiel) on a from hotels.
aid and ambulance service. This small keypad. La Poste (the Post Office)
is particularly true in rural areas. You can also use credit cards used to be called the P.T.T.
Casualty departments (ser vice in most banks to withdraw cash; (postes, télégraphes, téléphones),
des urgences) in public hospitals either from an ATM (automatic and some road signs still give
can deal with most medical teller machine), which should directions to the P.T.T. The
problems. Your consulate have an English-language postal service in France is
should be able to provide you option, or from a cash desk. Most fast and reliable. However, it
with details of an English- banks will cash traveler’s checks. is not cheap, especially when
speaking doctor in the area. Opening hours are usually Mon– sending a parcel abroad.
Pharmacists can also suggest Fri, 9am–4:30 or 5:15pm, with At La Poste, postage stamps
treatments for many health some banks also open on (timbres) are sold singly or in
problems. Look for the green- Saturday morning. Many close carnets of seven or ten. They
cross sign outside pharmacies. for lunch, and many, especially in are also sold at tabacs, although
the south, are closed on Monday. you need to go to the post office
You can also exchange money for inter national stamps. At
Banking and Currency
at bureaux de change offices, post offices, you can also use
The French unit of currency which operate longer hours telephone directories (annuaires),
is the euro (see p23). than banks. Exchange rates and buy phonecards, cash or buy
Most credit cards are widely commission charges can vary. money orders (mandats), and
accepted in France, but, make international calls.
because of the high com- Post offices usually open from
missions charged, American Communications 9am–5pm Mon–Fri, often with
Express is often not. The most Payphones in France are being a break for lunch, and 9am–
commonly used credit card is phased out, and they will likely noon on Saturdays. Mail boxes
Carte Bleue/Visa. Eurocard/ be removed completely within are yellow, and often have
MasterCard (Access in UK) is also the next few years. Those that separate slots for the town you
often accepted. Credit cards still remain take mainly plastic are in, the département, and
issued in France contain a telephone cards (télécartes)– other destinations (autres
microchip and are called “smart available from tobacconists destinations).
cards,” but some machines can (tabacs) and newsagents – Although the Internet is widely
also read cards with magnetic and credit cards. For local calls, used in France, Internet cafés
strips. If you find your a unit lasts up to six minutes. have not proved to be successful.
conventional card cannot be Some post offices have tele- However, there are usually a few
read in the smart-card slot, get phone booths (cabines) where in the major cities and resorts.
the cashier to swipe the card you can call first and pay after- In Paris, there are free Wi-Fi
through the magnetic reader. wards. This is cheaper than spots in many metro stations.
DIRECTORY
Embassies Tourist UK Emergency
Information Lincoln House, Numbers
Australia 300 High Holborn,
4 Rue Jean Rey, 75015 Paris Convention & London WC1V 7JH. Ambulance (SAMU)
Paris. Tel 01-40 59 33 00. Visitors Bureau Tel 020-7061 6600. Tel 15 or 18 (Sapeurs
∑ france.embassy. US Pompiers).
gov.au Headquarters 825 Third Ave,
25–27 Rue des Pyramides, Fire (Sapeurs
Canada New York, NY 10022. Pompiers)
35 Ave Montaigne, 75008 75001 Paris. Tel 212-838 7800. Tel 18 or 112.
Paris. Tel 01-44 43 29 00. Tel 01495-24263.
∑ canadainter ∑ en.parisinfo.com Facilities for the Police and
national.gc.ca/france Australia Disabled Gendarmerie
UK French Tourist Bureau, Association des Tel 17.
Consulate: 18 bis Rue Level 22, 25 Bligh Street, Paralysés de France
d’Anjou, 75008 Paris. Sydney, NSW 2000. 17 Bld August Blanqui, Banking
Tel 01-44 51 31 00. ∑ 75013 Paris.
amb-grandebretagne.fr Tel 612-9321 5244. Tel 01-45 89 40 57. American Express
Canada ∑ apf.asso.fr 11 Rue Scribe,
US 1800 Ave McGill College, 75009 Paris.
2 Ave Gabriel, 75008 Paris. GIHP Tel 01-47 77 70 00.
Tel 01-43 12 22 22. Suite 1010, Montréal, 61 fbg Poissonnière,
∑ france.usembassy. Québec H3A 3J6. 75009 Paris. Travelex
gov Tel 288-2026. Tel 01-43 95 66 36. Tel 0800 908 330.




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200  FR ANCE AND THE L OW C OUNTRIES

Travel Information passenger service, Eurostar, links
London and Paris (2.5 hrs).
France has highly advanced transportation systems, with Paris
at the hub of its air, railroad, and road networks. Paris’s two Getting Around Paris
main airports have direct flights to North America, Africa, Japan,
and the rest of Europe. The city’s six major railroad stations Central Paris is compact, and the
best way to get around is often
connect it to some 6,000 destinations in France, and provide to walk. Public trans portation in
links to the whole of Europe. An extensive, well-developed the city is good, however, with an
road network makes it easy to reach all parts of the country efficient metro (subway) system,
by car or bus. France is also well connected by sea, with frequent buses, and a commu­
frequent ferry crossings from the UK to ports on the Channel. ter train service (RER). These are
all operated by the Paris
transportation company, RATP.
There are many types of ticket
Flying to France Domestic Flights
available, sold at metro and RER
France is served by nearly all There are a number of domestic stations, and most can be used
international airlines. Paris is the airlines that fly between the cities on any RATP service, including
major airline destination in of France, some of which only buses. Single bus tickets can
France, but there are a number of operate within one region; others also be bought from the driver
other international airports across also fly to French­speaking coun­ when boarding. All tickets used
the country. Some airports near tries, with Air France offering the on buses must be stamped in
the border, such as Geneva, Basle, largest number of routes. Hop is a the machine on board.
and Luxembourg, can also be French airline offering low­cost Single RATP tickets are valid in
used for destinations in France. internal flights. However, unless metro/RER zones 1 or 2, or for
The main French airline is Air you are eligible for discounts, you any bus journey. Carnets (books
France, which has services to may find it cheaper and faster to of ten single tickets), are more
major cities across the world. The travel on high­speed trains, economical if you plan to make
main British airline with regular given the time it can take to a number of journeys. Various
flights to France is British reach the airports. passes are also available, which
Airways. Inexpensive flights entitle you to unlimited travel
from the UK to various French Ferry Services in certain zones for a set
destinations are available from number of days.
carriers such as easyJet, Flybe, There are several crossings Vélib is a self­service bike
and Ryanair. Major airlines between the UK and French hire scheme in Paris. Users can
including American Airlines, ports. P&O Ferries operates hire a bike from one station and
Delta, and United operate between Dover and Calais, with return it to another.
flights from the United States. frequent crossings (75–90 mins).
Air Canada flies from several Brittany Ferries runs a 9­hour
cities in Canada, and Qantas service from Portsmouth to Rail Travel
provides flights from Australia St­Malo, a 6­hour service from France has always been known
and New Zealand. Portsmouth to Caen, a 3­hour for the punctuality of its trains.
service from Poole or The French state railroad, the
Portsmouth to Cherbourg, a Société Nationale des Chemins
Air Fares 6­hour service from Plymouth to de Fer (SNCF), provides an
Airline fares are at their highest Roscoff, and a 4­hour crossing excellent railroad network
during the peak summer season from Portsmouth to Le Havre. which covers nearly all of
in France, usually from July to LD Lines runs an 8­hour France. The fastest services are
September. Fierce competition overnight service from Ports­ provided by the high­speed TGV
between airlines, however, means mouth to Le Havre. Transmanche (Trains à Grande Vitesse) trains,
there are often discounts on offer. Ferries’ route between which link most major cities.
APEX fares are booked in Newhaven and Dieppe takes Overnight services are popular
advance. They cannot be about 3 hours. Norfolkline has in France, and most long­distance
changed or canceled without a 2­hour crossing from Dover trains have couchettes (bunks),
penalty and there are also to Dunkerque. which you must reserve for a fee.
minimum and maximum stay Reservations are also compulsory
requirements. Packages are also for all TGV services, trains on
worth considering, as airlines Channel Tunnel public holidays, and for a siège
and tour operators can put The Channel Tunnel (Tunnel sous inclinable (reclinable seat).
together a great range of La Manche) was inaugurated in Information on the various train
flexible deals to suit your needs. 1994. A car­carrying shuttle services and fares is available
These can include car rental and service, which is operated by from the Voyages-SNCF office
train travel, enabling you to Eurotunnel, runs between in London. In France, leaflets are
continue overland. Folkestone and Calais. The available at most stations. There




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are a number of special tickets à péage), which can be quite All the main international
available, including ones for over expensive, especially over long car-rental companies operate
60s, families, and under 26s. distances. There are some short in France. It is worth ringing
There are also special tickets for sections which are free, around before you leave for
those doing a lot of train travel. however, usually close to major France as there are many special
Automatic ticket and centers. Tolls can be paid with offers for rentals booked and
reservation machines (billetterie either credit cards or cash. prepaid in the UK or US. Good
automatique) are found at main Where only small sums are deals are often available from
stations. They take credit cards involved, you throw coins into a Autos Abroad, brokers who use
or coins. You can also check large receptacle and the change cars owned by other car-rental
train times, fares, and make is given automatically. companies. Booking in this way
reservations by phoning SNCF. Speed limits in France are can be very cost effective.
Both reservations and tickets shown in km/h. The limit in all
must be validated in one of the towns, unless shown otherwise, Buses
orange composteur machines is 50 km/h (30 mph). On major
near the platforms before roads, higher limits are usually Long-distance buses generally
boarding the train. shown. On the autoroutes, the operate only where there is not
usual limit is 130 km/h (80 mph), a good train service in operation
but this is reduced to 110 km/h (for example, between Geneva
Traveling by Road
(70 mph) when it is raining. and Nice). SNCF (the state railway)
France has one of the densest On-the-spot fines may be operates some bus routes and
road networks in Europe, with demanded for speeding issues regional TER (Transports
modern motorways which allow offences, and there are severe Express Régionaux) timetables
quick and easy access to all penalties for drink-driving. and tickets. Eurolines serves a
parts of the country. However, Sunday is usually a good time wider range of destinations
you can save money on tolls to travel in France, as there within France, as well as
and explore France in a more are very few trucks on the road. providing services to hundreds
leisurely way by using some of Try to avoid traveling at the of major cities across Europe.
the other high-quality roads, French holiday-rush periods, They also offer excursions and
such as RN (route nationale) and known as the grands départs. arrange accommodations.
D (départementale) routes. The worst times are weekends There are also many local
Most motorways in France in July, and at the beginning and buses, which run from the
have a toll system (autoroutes end of August. town’s Gare Routière.
DIRECTORY
Airlines Flybe Norfolkline Voyages-SNCF
Tel 0871-700 2000 (UK). Tel 0871-574 7235 (UK). 193 Piccadilly,
Air Canada ∑ flybe.com ∑ norfolkline.com London W1J 9EU.
Tel 08-26 88 08 81. Tel 0844-848 5848.
Tel 888-247 2262 (Can). Hop P&O Ferries
∑ aircanada.com Tel 08-25 30 22 22. Tel 08716-64 21 21 (UK). Car Rental
∑ hop.fr ∑ poferries.com
Air France Autos Abroad
Tel 3654. Qantas Transmanche Ferries Tel 0844-826 6536 (UK).
Tel 0871-663 3777 (UK). Tel 0845-774 7767 (UK). Tel 0825 304 304. ∑ autosabroad.com
Tel 800-237 2747 (US). Tel 13 13 13 (Aus). Tel 0871-522 9955 (UK).
∑ airfrance.com ∑ qantas.com.au ∑ transmache.co.uk Avis
Tel 08-21 23 07 60.
American Airlines Ryanair Channel Tunnel Tel 0844-581 0147 (UK).
Tel 08-26 46 09 50. Tel 08-92-56-21-50. ∑ avis.fr
Tel 800-433 7300 (US). ∑ ryanair.com Eurostar
∑ aa.com United Airlines Tel 01-70 70 60 88. Europcar
Tel 08-25 35 83 58.
British Airways Tel 0845-8444 777 (UK). Tel 08432-186 186 (UK). Tel 0871-384 1087 (UK).
Tel 08-25 82 54 00. Tel 800-864 8331 (US). ∑ eurostar.com ∑ europcar.com
Tel 0844-493 0787 (UK). ∑ united.com Eurotunnel
∑ britishairways.com Ferry Services Tel 810-630 304. Hertz
Tel 0825-86 18 61.
Delta Air Lines Tel 0870-535 3535 (UK). Tel 0843-309 3099 (UK).
Tel 08-92-70-26-09. Brittany Ferries ∑ eurotunnel.com ∑ hertz.com
Tel 800-221 12 12 (US). Tel 08-25 82 88 28.
∑ delta.com Tel 0871-244 0744 (UK). Rail Travel Buses
easyJet ∑ brittanyferries.com SNCF, Paris Eurolines
Tel 0843-116 0021 (UK). LD Lines Tel 3635. Tel 08-92 89 90 91.
∑ easyjet.com Tel 0844-576 8836 (UK). ∑ voyages-sncf.com ∑ eurolines.fr




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202  FR ANCE AND THE L OW C OUNTRIES

Shopping items, and there are often foires
artisanales held at the same
Shopping in France is a delight. Whether you go to the time, which sell local produce,
hypermarkets and department stores, or seek out the many arts, and crafts.
small specialist stores and markets, you will be tempted by the
stylish presentation and high quality of the goods on offer. Regional Produce
France is especially renowned for its wine, with a vast selection French regional specialties can be
available, from cheap table wines to classic vintages. French bought outside their area of
food is also excellent, in particular the cheeses, cured meats, origin, although it is interesting
patés, cakes, and pastries. France also offers world-famous to buy them locally. Provence, in
fashion, pottery, porcelain, crystal, and fine-quality antiques. the south, prides itself on the
quality of its olive oil, while the
southwest is notable for its patés.
Central France is famous for
Opening Hours Specialist Shops
snails, cured meats, and Epoisses
Food stores open at about 7am One of the pleasures of shopping cheese. Cheese is also an impor-
and close around noon for lunch. in France is that specialist stores tant product of the temperate
After lunch most are open until for food still flourish despite the north, the best-known varieties
7pm or later. Bakeries often stay new large supermarkets. The being Brie and Camembert.
open until 1pm or later. boulangerie, for bread, is Popular drinks are also
Shops that do not close at frequently combined with a associated with particular
lunchtime include some pâtisserie selling cakes and regions. Pastis, made from
supermarkets, department pastries. The traiteur sells aniseed, is popular in the south,
stores, and most hypermarkets. prepared foods. Cheese shops while Calvados, made from
General opening hours for (fromagerie) and other shops apples, is from the north.
non-food stores are around specializing in dairy products Location also determines
9am–7pm Mon–Sat, often with (laiterie) may also be combined, quality. Lyon’s culinary imp-
a break for lunch. Many are while the boucherie (butcher’s) ortance stems from the many
closed on Mondays. and charcuterie (pork butcher’s/ locally produced cheeses, the
Food stores (and news agents) delicatessen) are often separate proximity of Bresse for chickens,
are open on Sunday mornings. stores. For general groceries, go Charolais for beef, and the
Virtually every shop in France is to an épicerie. An épicerie fine is Alsace region for sausages.
closed on Sunday afternoon, a delicatessen.
except for the last weeks before
Christmas, when hypermarkets Markets Wine
remain open all day. Smaller In wine-producing areas, follow
stores may be closed one day Markets are found in towns the dégustation (tasting) signs
of the week, usually Monday. and villages all over France. to vineyards (domaines), where
However, those in tourist To find out where the market you can taste the wine. You will
regions are often open every is, ask a passerby for le marché. be expected to buy at least one
day in the high season. Markets usually finish promptly bottle. Wine cooperatives sell the
at noon and do not reopen in wine of small producers. Here,
the afternoon. you can buy wine in five- and ten-
Larger Shops Look for local producers, liter containers (en vrac), as well
Hypermarkets (hypermarchés including those with only one as in bottles. The wine is often
or grandes surfaces) can be or two special items to sell, as rated AOP, appellation d’origine
found on the outskirts of every their goods are often cheaper protégée, selling at less than 2
sizeable town: look for signs and of better quality. euros a liter. As wine sold en vrac
indicating centre commercial. By law, price tags include the is “duty-free,” customers receive
Among the biggest are origin of all produce: pays means a laissez-passer (permit) indicating
Carrefour, Casino, Auchan, and local. Chickens from Bresse are their destination. Bottled wine
Continent. Discount petrol is marketed wearing a red, white, sold by co-ops is duty-paid.
often sold, and most, but not and blue badge, giving the
all, now have pumps which name of the producer as proof of
take credit cards. authenticity. If you are visiting Clothing
Department stores (grands markets over several weeks, France is famous for its fashion,
magasins), such as the cheap- look for items just coming into and elegant clothes can be
and-cheerful Monoprix, are season, such as fresh walnuts, found even in quite small towns.
often found in town centers. the first wild asparagus, truffles, Paris, however, is the home of
Others, like the more upscale early artichokes, or wild straw- haute couture. There are more
Printemps and Galeries berries. The special seasonal than 100 fashion houses and
Lafayette, can be found both in markets held throughout France designers listed with the
town and out-of-town centers. are the best places to find these Fédération Française de la




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FR ANCE  203


Couture, and most of these are and prices will be more within Saturday to Monday). To avoid
concentrated on the Right Bank most people’s budgets. paying duty, you will need a
around Rue du Faubourg-St- Printemps, for example, is huge, certificate of authenticity when
Honoré and Avenue Montaigne. with separate buildings for exporting objets d’art over 20
Famous names include Yves menswear, household goods, years old and any goods over a
Saint Laurent, Chanel, Guy and womens’ and children’s century old that are worth more
Laroche, Gucci, Nina Ricci, and clothes. The beauty department, than €150,000. Seek professional
Christian Dior. Other top with its vast perfume selection, is advice and declare them at
designers include Hermès and definitely worth a visit. Le Bon customs if in doubt.
Giorgio Armani. Marché, on the Left Bank, was
Men don’t have the luxury the first department store in
of haute couture dressing: their Paris, and is the most chic, with Tax-Free Shopping
choice is limited to ready-to- an excellent food hall. Galeries Visitors resident outside the
wear, but most of the big-name Lafayette has a wide range of European Union can reclaim the
womenswear designers also clothes at all price levels. There sales tax, TVA, on French goods
produce a range for men. A are also homewares, and the if they spend more than €305 in
good example is Gianni Versace, branch in Boulevard Haussmann one shop, get a détaxe receipt,
with his classic Italian clothes for has Paris’s biggest souvenir shop. and take the goods out of the
men. On the Right Bank, the country within six months. The
household-name designers Art and Antiques form should be handed in at
include Giorgio Armani, the customs when leaving the
stylish Pierre Cardin, Yves Saint You can buy fabulous art and country, and the reimbursement
Laurent, and Lanvin, who is antiques from stores, galleries, will be sent to you.
particularly popular for his and flea-markets all over France. Exceptions for détaxe rebates
beautifully made leather The best places to visit in Paris are food and drink, medicines,
accessories. If time is short and are Le Louvre des Antiquaires, tobacco, cars, and motorbikes.
you want to make all your a huge building containing More information is available
purchases under one roof, try the around 250 antique dealers, and from the Centre des Renseign-
grands magasins. These stores the famous Marché aux Puces ements des Douanes, but this is
offer a wide choice of fashions, de St-Ouen flea market (open usually in French.
DIRECTORY
Clothing Guy Laroche 32 Rue Faubourg Printemps
35 Rue François 1er, St. Honoré, 64 Bld Haussman,
Chanel 75009 Paris.
42 Ave Montaigne, 75008 Paris. 75008 Paris Tel 01-42 82 50 00.
75008 Paris. Tel 01-40 69 68 00. (men’s fashion).
Tel 01-47 23 74 12. Hermès Tel 01-53 05 80 80. Art and Antiques
5 Bld de la Croisette, 24 Rue du Faubourg 65 Bld Croisette,
06400 Cannes. St-Honoré, 75008 Paris. 06400 Cannes. Le Louvre des
Tel 04-93 38 55 05. Tel 01-40 17 47 17. Tel 04-93 46 99 17. Antiquaires
Christian Dior Lanvin 2 Place du Palais-Royal,
75001 Paris.
30 Ave Montaigne, 22 Rue de Faubourg Department Tel 01-42 97 27 27.
75008 Paris. St-Honoré, Stores
Tel 01-40 73 73 73. 75008 Paris. Marché aux Puces
38 Bld de la Croisette, Tel 01-44 71 33 33. Le Bon Marché de St-Ouen
06400 Cannes. 24 Rue de Sèvres, Av Porte de Clignancourt,
Tel 04-92 98 98 00. Nina Ricci 75007 Paris. 75018 Paris.
39 Ave Montaigne, Tel 01-40 11 77 63.
Gianni Versace Tel 01-44 39 80 00.
45 Ave Montaigne, 75008 Paris. Tax-free
75008 Paris. Tel 01-83 97 72 12. Galeries Lafayette Shopping
Tel 01-47 42 88 02. Pierre Cardin 40 Bld Haussmann,
Giorgio Armani 9 Rue Duras, 75009 Paris. Centre des
Renseignements
2 Ave Montaigne, 75008 Paris. Tel 01-42 82 34 56. des Douanes
75008 Paris. Tel 01-42 66 14 92. 11 Rue Ste Catherine, Direction Générale,
Tel 01-56 89 01 19. Yves Saint Laurent 33000 Bordeaux. 11 Rue des Deux
Gucci 6 Place St. Sulpice, Tel 05-56 90 92 71. Communes,
60 Ave Montaigne, 75006 Paris 6 Rue Maréchal Foch, 93558 Montreuil.
75008 Paris. (women’s fashion). 06400 Cannes. Tel 08-11 20 44 44.
Tel 01-56 69 80 80. Tel 01-43 29 43 00. Tel 04-97 06 25 00. ∑ douane-gouv.fr





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204  FR ANCE AND THE L OW C OUNTRIES

Entertainment go to Le Petit Journal St-Michel.
Jazz is also popular across
The entertainment center of France is Paris. Whether your France, and big international jazz
preference is for drama, ballet, opera, jazz, cinema, or dancing festivals are held right through
the night away, Paris has it all. Across the rest of the country the year, in Cannes (February; see
the arts are also well represented, and there are a number of p196), Antibes and Juan-le-Pins
(July), and Le Mans (April). Opera
internationally renowned arts festivals throughout the year. and classical music are also
With a varied physical, as well as cultural, landscape, there are widely performed, notably at the
also many possibilities for outdoor sports and activities, Aix festival during July (see p194).
including golf, tennis, walking, and skiing. Specialist holidays
cater to those interested in the language, food, and wine. Clubs and Cabaret
Music in Paris nightclubs tends
to follow the trends set in the
Entertainment Listings
more than 100 years, the Palais US and Britain, although home-
Two of the best listings Royal has been the temple of grown groups, especially those
magazines in Paris are Pariscope risqué farce. playing garage, are popular and
and L’Officiel des Spectacles. Excellent theaters and influential both here and abroad.
Published every Wednesday, productions are also to be found Balajo, once frequented by
you can pick them up at any in major cities across France, and Edith Piaf, and the ultra-hip Le
newsstand. Local newspapers there are big theater festivals Social Club are particularly up-
and offices de tourisme are the held in Nancy (April) and to-the-minute with their music.
best places to find entertainment Avignon (July; see p191). For a more Latin touch, try La
listings for the regions. Java. The dance floor of this club,
where Edith Piaf once performed,
Music now sways to the sounds of
Booking Tickets
The music scene in Paris has Cuban and Brazilian music.
Depending on the event, tickets never been so busy, especially When it comes to picking a
can often be bought at the with the emergence of many cabaret, the rule of thumb is
door, but for popular events internationally successful simple: the better-known places
it is wiser to purchase them in contemporary French groups. are best. The Folies-Bergère is
advance, at the box office or There are numerous first-class the oldest music hall in Paris and
at FNAC chains. Theater box venues in the city, with excellent probably the most famous in the
offices are usually open 11am– jazz, opera, contemporary, and world. It is closely rivaled by the
7pm daily. Most accept credit- classical-music concerts. Lido and the Moulin Rouge,
card bookings by telephone. Opened in 1989, the ultra- birthplace of the cancan.
You can also buy tickets online modern 2,700-seat Opéra de
(via www.ticketnet.fr), from Paris Bastille stages classic and
Kiosque Théâtre, and from modern operas. Productions Cinema
other commercial centers in from outside France are staged Paris is the world’s capital of film
large towns. at the Opéra Comique. appreciation. There are now more
The Salle Pleyel is Paris’s than 300 screens within the city
principal concert hall and home limits, distributed among 100
Theater of the Orchestre de Paris. Paris’s movie theaters. Most are
From the grandeur of the newest venue is the Cité de la concentrated in clusters, which
Comédie Française to slapstick Musique in the Parc de la Villette. enjoy the added appeal of
farce and avant-garde drama, Top international and pop nearby restaurants and shops.
theater is flourishing in Paris. acts are usually to be found The Champs-Elysées has the
Founded in 1680 by royal decree, at huge arenas, such as the densest cinema strip in town,
the Comédie Française is the Palais Omnisports de Paris- where you can see the latest
bastion of French theater, aiming Bercy or the Zénith. A more Hollywood smash or French
to keep classical drama in the intimate atmosphere is found auteur triumph, as well as some
public eye. In an underground at the legendary Olympia. classic re-issues.
auditorium in the Art Deco Paris is, perhaps, most The movie theaters on the
Palais de Chaillot, the Théâtre renowned for its jazz, and the Grands Boulevards include two
National de Chaillot stages lively best talent in the world can be notable architectural landmarks:
pro ductions of mainstream heard here on any evening, the 2,800-seat Le Grand Rex,
European classics. The Théâtre especially throughout October with its Baroque decor, and the
National de la Colline specializes during the jazz festival. All the Max Linder Panorama, which
in contemporary drama. Among great jazz musicians have was refurbished in the 1980s.
the most important of the performed at New Morning, The largest screen in France is
indep endents is the Comédie which also hosts African, Brazilian, the La Géode flagship in the
des Champs-Elysées, while for and other sounds. For Dixieland, 19th arrondissement. On the Left




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Bank, the area around Odéon- and shorter Petites Randonneés from a selection of brochures.
St-Germain-des-Prés has taken cover France. The routes are Vacations are based on subjects
over from the Latin Quarter as clearly way marked, and vary in such as the French language,
the city’s heartland for art and difficulty, including long pilgrim wine appreciation, and cooking,
repertory movie theaters. routes, alpine crossings, and as well as craft activities and
tracks through national parks. organized nature trips.
Some routes are open to
Outdoor Activities
mountain bikes and horses.
A country as richly diverse in The mountains offer excellent Spectator Sport
culture and geography as skiing and mountaineering. The The main sporting action in
France offers an amazing variety Atlantic coast around Biarritz France revolves largely around
of sport and leisure activities. offers some of the best surfing football, rugby, tennis, and horse
Information on current activities and windsurfing in Europe. racing. There are various stadia
in a particular region is available Sailing and waterskiing are and circuits all over the country;
from the tourist offices listed popular across France, and the best are near major cities,
for each town in this guide. swimming facilities are particularly Paris. Here, the Stade
Golf is popular in France, generally good, although de France and the Palais Omni-
especially along the north and beaches in the south can be sports de Paris-Bercy host all
south coasts and in Aquitaine. crowded in August. the major events. Parc des
You will need to take your Princes is home to the top Paris
handicap certificate with you if soccer team, Paris St-Germain.
you want to play. Tennis is also a Specialist Vacations Cycling is also a very popular
favorite sport, and there are French government Tourist sport in France, and there is
courts to rent in almost every Offices (see p199) have extensive racing action across the country.
town. More than 30,000 km information on travel companies The most famous event is the
(19,000 miles) of Grandes offering special-interest annual Tour de France, held
Randonneés (long-distance tracks) vacations. Send off or download during July.
DIRECTORY
Booking Tickets Théâtre National Le Petit Journal Le Social Club
de la Colline St-Michel 142 Rue Montmartre,
FNAC 15 Rue Malte-Brun, 75020 71 Bld St-Michel, 75005 75002 Paris.
Forum Les Halles, Paris. Tel 01-44 62 52 52. Paris. Tel 01-43 26 28 59. Tel 01-40 28 05 55.
1 Rue Pierre Lescot, Salle Pleyel
75001 Paris. Music Cinema
Tel 08-25 02 00 20. 252 Rue du Faubourg
Cité de la Musique St-Honoré, 75008 Paris. La Géode
Kiosque Théâtre 221 Ave Jean-Jaurès, Tel 01-42 56 13 13. 26 Ave Corentin-Cariou,
Place de la Madeleine, 75019 Paris. Zénith 75019 Paris.
75008 Paris. Tel 01-44 84 44 84. 211 Ave Jean-Jaurès, Tel 01-40 05 79 99.
∑ kiosquetheatre.com Le Grand Rex
New Morning 75019 Paris.
Theater 7–9 Rue des Petites- ∑ zenith-paris.com 1 Bld Poissonnière,
Ecuries, 75010 Paris. Clubs and Cabaret 75002 Paris.
Tel 01-45 08 93 89.
Comédie des Tel 01-45 23 51 41.
Champs-Elysées Olympia Balajo Max Linder
Panorama
15 Ave Montaigne, 28 Bld des Capucines, 9 Rue de Lappe, 75011
75008 Paris. 75009 Paris. Paris. Tel 01-47 00 07 87. 24 Bld Poissonnière,
75009 Paris.
Tel 01-53 23 99 19. Tel 08-92 68 33 68. Folies-Bergère Tel 01-48 24 00 47.
Comédie Française Opéra Comique 32 Rue Richer, 75009 Paris.
1 Pl Colette, (Salle Favart) 5 Rue Favart, Tel 08-92 68 16 50. Spectator Sport
75001 Paris. 75002 Paris. La Java Palais Omnisports
Tel 08-25 10 16 80. Tel 01-42 44 45 40. 105 Rue du Faubourg- de Paris-Bercy
Palais Royal Opéra de Paris du-Temple, 75010 Paris. 8 Bld de Bercy, 75012
38 Rue Montpensier, Bastille Tel 01-42 02 20 52. Paris. Tel 01-40 02 60 60.
75001 Paris. 120 Rue de Lyon, Lido Parc des Princes
Tel 01-42 97 40 00. 75012 Paris. 116 bis Ave Champs- 24 Rue du Commandant-
Tel 01-40 01 17 89. Elysées, 75008 Paris. Guilbaud, 75016 Paris.
Théâtre National
de Chaillot Palais Omnisports Tel 01-40 76 56 10. Tel 01-47 43 71 71.
Place du Trocadéro, de Paris-Bercy Moulin Rouge Stade de France
75016 Paris. 8 Bld de Bercy 75012. 82 Bld de Clichy, 75018 La Plaine St-Denis, 93210
Tel 01-53 65 30 00. Tel 08-92-39 04 90. Paris. Tel 01-53 09 82 82. Paris. Tel 08-92 70 09 00.



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Where to Stay

Bright accommodations in a Price Guide
Paris centrally located hotel. Free Wi-Fi. Prices are based on one night’s stay in
high season for a standard double room,
CHAMPS-ELYSEES & INVALIDES: ILE DE LA CITE, MARAIS & inclusive of service charges and taxes.
Mayet €€ BEAUBOURG: Hôtel de la € under €100
Boutique Bretonnerie €€ €€ €100 to €250
3 Rue Mayet, 75006 Boutique Map E3 €€€ over €250
Tel 01-47 83 21 35 22 Rue Ste-Croix de la Bretonnerie,
∑ mayet.com 75004 LEFT BANK: Résidence
Painted tables and abstract murals Tel 01-48 87 77 63 Le Prince Regent €€€
jazz up the interior of this hotel. ∑ hotelbretonnerie.com Luxury
Exposed beams, stone vaulting, 28 Rue Monsieur le Prince, 75006
CHAMPS-ELYSEES & INVALIDES: and rich fabrics give this hotel Tel 01-56 24 19 21
Four Seasons George V €€€ a distinctly medieval flavor. ∑ leprinceregent.com
Luxury Map B2 Here you’ll find gracefully
31 Avenue George V, 75008 DK Choice decorated rooms, spacious
Tel 01-49 52 71 00 apartments, and a hammam.
∑ fourseasons.com ILE DE LA CITE, MARAIS &
This iconic establishment offers BEAUBOURG: Le Pavillon TUILERIES & OPÉRA: Chopin €
its guests modern comforts in de la Reine €€€ Modern
an opulent setting. Luxury Map F4 46 Passage Jouffroy, 75009
28 Place des Vosges, 75003 Tel 01-47 70 58 10
ILE DE LA CITE, MARAIS & Tel 01-40 29 19 19 ∑ hotelchopin.fr
BEAUBOURG: Britannique €€ ∑ pavillon-de-la-reine.com This simple hotel stands at the end
Boutique Map E3 Overlooking the city’s most of a 19th-century glass-roofed
20 Avenue Victoria, 75001 beautiful square, Le Pavillon arcade, close to city attractions.
Tel 01-42 33 74 59 has an unrivaled setting. The
∑ hotel-britannique.fr 17th-century mansion has been TUILERIES & OPERA:
Maritime details adorn this refurbished in elegant country- Brighton €€€
smart hotel with a British feel. house style, with romantic Boutique Map D3
bedrooms and a lovely spa. 218 Rue de Rivoli, 75001
ILE DE LA CITE, MARAIS & Tel 01-47 03 61 61
BEAUBOURG: Caron de ∑ paris-hotel-brighton.com
Beaumarchais €€ DK Choice Enjoy breathtaking views of
Boutique Map E3 the Tuileries amid antique
12 Rue Vieille-du-Temple, 75004 ILE DE LA CITE, MARAIS & furnishings and chandeliers.
Tel 01-42 72 34 12 BEAUBOURG:
∑ carondebeaumarchais.com Le Petit Moulin €€€
This is a tastefully decorated hotel Romantic
with 18th-century inspired decor 29–31 Rue du Poitou, 75003 Northern France
as seen in the color schemes and Tel 01-42 74 10 10
elegant upholstered furniture. ∑ hotelpetitmoulinparis.com MONT-ST-MICHEL:
The oldest boulangerie (bakery) Terrasses Poulard €€
ILE DE LA CITE, MARAIS & in Paris now houses this wacky Boutique
BEAUBOURG: Hospitel €€ hotel. Rooms reflect the designer BP 18, 50170
Modern Map E4 Christian Lacroix’s love of Tel 02-33 89 02 02
1 Place du Parvis Notre-Dame, 75004 opulence, and are romantic with ∑ terrasses-poulard.fr
Tel 01-44 32 01 00 audacious murals. There is free This old stone building offers
∑ hotel-hospitel.fr Wi-Fi, access for the disabled, stunning views of the bay and
and private parking. the abbey. Small, clean rooms.
REIMS: Château Les Crayères €€€
LEFT BANK: Luxury
Les Degrés de Notre Dame €€ 64 Boulevard Henry Vasnier, 51100
Boutique Map E4 Tel 03-26 24 90 00
10 Rue des Grands Degrés, 75005 ∑ lescrayeres.com
Tel 01-55 42 88 88 Aristocratic luxury château in
∑ lesdegreshotel.monsite-orange.fr an English-style wooded park.
A vintage charmer with Excellent on-site restaurant.
attractive beamed bedrooms.
ROUEN: Hôtel de
LEFT BANK: Hôtel des Bourgtheroulde €€€
Grands Hommes €€ Luxury
Romantic 15 Place de la Pucelle d’Orléans,
17 Place du Panthéon, 75005 76000
Tel 01-46 34 19 60 Tel 02-35 14 50 50
∑ hoteldesgrandshommes.com ∑ hotelsparouen.com
Enjoy breathtaking views of The ornate Renaissance facade
Modern French style at Le Pavillon de la the Panthéon from this elegant, belies all the modern comforts of
Reine on Place des Vosges, Paris glossy hotel. this boutique hotel. Great spa.

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TR A VELERS ’ NEEDS  207

ST-MALO:
La Maison Armateurs €
Boutique
6 Grand Rue, 35400
Tel 02-99 40 87 70
∑ maisondesarmateurs.com
An old ship-owners’ house in the
old town is now a chic hotel with
bright and modern rooms.
STRASBOURG: Le Chut €€
Budget
4 Rue du Bain aux Plantes, 67000
Tel 03-88 32 05 06
∑ hote-strasbourg.fr
Offers a classy Zen atmosphere
and sleek rooms. Great restaurant.
Exposed beams in one of the vast suites at the Domaine des Hauts de Loire, Onzain
The Loire Valley
TOURS: Hôtel l’Adresse € LYON: Hôtel des Artistes €€
CHARTRES: Modern Modern
Le Grand Monarque € 12 Rue de la Rôtisserie, 37000 8 Rue Gaspard-André, 69002
Boutique Tel 02-47 20 85 76 Tel 04-78 42 04 88
22 Place des Epars, 28005 ∑ hotel-ladresse.com ∑ hotel-des-artistes.fr
Tel 02-37 18 15 15 This modern hotel is concealed This delightful hotel, with
∑ bw-grand-monarque.com behind the facade of an 18th- pleasant, bright, and airy rooms,
A converted 16th-century staging century townhouse. is a favorite haunt of actors.
post with spacious rooms, a bistro,
fine dining, and a luxury spa. LYON: Cour des Loges €€€
Luxury
CHENONCEAUX: Burgundy and the 6 Rue du Boeuf, 69005
Hôtel du Bon Laboureur €€ French Alps Tel 04-72 77 44 44
Luxury ∑ courdesloges.com
6 Rue de Dr. Bretonneau, 37150 ANNECY: The elegant rooms here blend
Tel 02-47 23 90 02 Hôtel Palais de l’Isle €€ Renaissance-period features
∑ bonlaboureur.com Historic and contemporary decor.
Stay in neat rooms housed in 13 Rue Perrière, 74000
18th-century stone dwellings. Tel 04-50 45 86 87 POLIGNY: Hostellerie des
∑ palaisannecy.com Monts de Vaux €€
CHINON: Hôtel Diderot € Renovated 18th-century house Luxury
Budget on the Thouin Canal. Comfortable Monts Vaux, 39800
4 Rue Buffon, 37500 rooms and modern decor. Tel 03-84 37 12 50
Tel 02-47 93 18 87 ∑ hostellerie.com
∑ hoteldiderot.com CHAMBERY: A family-run hotel in a coaching
Elegant creeper-clad hotel on a Hôtel des Princes € inn, with rooms decorated in a
quiet street near the city center. Boutique classic bourgeois style.
4 Rue de Boigne, 73000
DK Choice Tel 04-79 33 45 36
∑ hoteldesprinces.eu
ONZAIN: Domaine des This quiet and comfortable hotel Southwest France
Hauts de Loire €€€ near the Fontaine des Eléphants
Luxury offers friendly service. BIARRITZ:
79 Rue Gilbert Navard, 41150 Hôtel du Palais €€€
Tel 02-54 20 72 57 DIJON: Le Jacquemart € Luxury
∑ domainehautsloire.com Historic 1 Ave de l’Impératrice, 64200
This ivy-clad hunting lodge 32 Rue Verrerie, 21000 Tel 05-59 41 64 00
retains its grandeur with lavish Tel 03-80 60 09 60 ∑ hotel-du-palais.com
guest rooms. Those in the old ∑ hotel-lejacquemart.fr Famous palatial hotel in a superb
coach house are the most Rooms come in all shapes and beach location, with an opulent
opulent. The chef prepares sizes at this hotel in a centrally spa, pool, and other facilities.
cutting-edge food, served located 17th-century building.
with superb local wines. BORDEAUX:
GRENOBLE: La Maison du Lierre €€
Splendid Hôtel € Boutique
ORLEANS: Hôtel de l’Abeille €€ Value 57 Rue Huguerie, 33000
Boutique 22 Rue Thiers, 38000 Tel 05-56 51 92 71
64 Rue Alsace Lorraine, 45000 Tel 04-76 46 33 12 ∑ hotel-maisondulierre-
Tel 02-38 53 54 87 ∑ splendid-hotel.com bordeaux.com
∑ hoteldelabeille.com Smart hotel with a walled garden. Charming hotel in a historic house
Grand Neoclassical building with Good amenities and rooms that with a pretty garden. Breakfast is
old-style rooms. Rooftop terrace. range from classic to modern. served in the inner courtyard.

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208  FR ANCE

ARLES: MONACO: Columbus €€€
Hôtel de l’Amphithéâtre € Boutique
Boutique 23 Avenue des Papalins, 98000
5–7 Rue Diderot, 13200 Tel 377-92 05 92 22
Tel 04-90 96 10 30 ∑ columbushotels.com
∑ hotelamphitheatre.fr Sleek designer rooms feature
Charming Provençal decor in the dark stone and polished metal.
several family rooms at this gem. Excellent restaurant and cigar bar.
MOUSTIERS-STE-MARIE:
DK Choice La Bastide de Moustiers €€€
ARLES: L’Hôtel Historic
Particulier à Arles €€€ Chemin de Quinson, 04360
Historic Tel 04-92 70 47 47
4 Rue de la Monnaie, 13200 ∑ bastide-moustiers.com
Tel 04-90 52 51 40 This 17th-century building has
∑ hotel-particulier.com gardens, mountain views, and a
Step into a world of rich superb Alain Ducasse restaurant.
elegance and opulent living
Abstract art and chocolate decor at the at this historic hotel. The walled NICE: Hôtel Windsor €€
Hôtel Bristol, Pau garden, swimming pool, and Boutique
an ultra-sophisticated spa 11 Rue Dalpozzo, 06000
PAU: Hôtel Bristol €€ and hammam all make for Tel 04-93 88 59 35
Room with a view a dreamy stay. Superb service. ∑ hotelwindsornice.com
3 Rue Gambetta, 64000 Stay in individually decorated
Tel 05-59 27 72 98 rooms. There is also a pool within
∑ hotelbristol-pau.com AVIGNON: Hôtel Bristol € an exotic garden.
Traditional, centrally located hotel Modern
with good facilities. Some rooms 44 Cours Jean Jaurès, 84000 NICE: Le Negresco €€€
have balconies with fine views. Tel 04-90 16 48 48 Luxury
∑ bristol-avignon.com 37 Promenade des Anglais 06000
PAUILLAC: A classy hotel with refined rooms, Tel 04-93 16 64 00
Château Cordeillan-Bages €€ including several for families. Pet- ∑ hotel-negresco-nice.com
Luxury friendly. Convenient location. This renowned vintage hotel was
Route des Châteaux, 33250 designed by Henri Negrescu. It
Tel 05-56 59 24 24 AVIGNON: La Mirande €€€ has superb works of art, flawless
∑ cordeillanbages.com Luxury service, and top-notch facilities.
Magnificent 17th-century château 4 Place de la Mirande, 84000
with splendid gardens, set in the Tel 04-90 14 20 20 NIMES: Imperator-Concorde €€
heart of the Médoc vineyards. ∑ la-mirande.fr Luxury
Closed November to mid-March. This cardinal’s mansion by the Quai de la Fontaine, 30000
Papal Palace has been sensitively Tel 04-66 21 90 30
POITIERS: Les Cours du Clain € renovated in 18th-century style. ∑ hotel-imperator.com
Historic Built in 1929, the Concorde is
117 Chemin de la Grotte à Calvin, CANNES: Carlton a favorite of celebrities, with a
86000 InterContinental €€€ lovely garden featuring cedar
Tel 06-10 16 09 55 Luxury and palm trees.
∑ lescoursduclain-poitiers.com 58 la Croisette, 06400
A beautiful B&B set in a historic Tel 04-93 06 40 06 DK Choice
house with a garden and pool. ∑ intercontinental-carlton-
cannes.com ST-TROPEZ: Pastis Hôtel
TOULOUSE: Popular with celebrities, this Art St-Tropez €€€
Grand Hôtel de l’Opéra €€ Deco establishment has breath- Boutique
Historic taking suites and a private beach. 6 Avenue du Général Leclerc, 83990
1 Place du Capitole, 31000 Tel 04-98 12 56 50
Tel 05-61 21 40 00 CARCASSONNE: ∑ pastis-st-tropez.com
∑ grand-hotel-opera.com Hôtel de la Cité €€ This ideal intimate hideaway is
Housed in a former 17th-century Luxury filled with 20th-century art. The
convent, this elegant hotel is set Place August-Pierre Pont, 11000 heated garden pool is idyllic,
in the heart of the city. Tel 04-68 71 98 71 surrounded by centuries-old
∑ hoteldelacite.com palm trees – the perfect spot
Expect period rooms, a glorious for breakfast or a nightcap.
pool, and gardens, plus three
The South of France eateries with immaculate service.
VILLEFRANCHE SUR MER:
AIX-EN-PROVENCE: MARSEILLE: Hotel Hôtel Welcome €€
Hôtel Cézanne €€ Résidence du Vieux Port €€ Boutique
Boutique Boutique 1 Quai Amiral Courbet, 06230
40 Avenue Victor Hugo, 13100 18 Quai du Port, 13002 Tel 04-93 76 27 62
Tel 04-42 91 11 11 Tel 04-91 91 91 22 ∑ welcomehotel.com
∑ cezanne.hotelaix.com ∑ hotel-residence-marseille.com Artist Jean Cocteau’s favorite hotel,
Arty, vibrant decor by Charles Enjoy color-drenched 1950s- the Welcome is full of period
Montemarco at this chic hotel. style decor and fabulous views. charm. Also has a great wine bar.
Key to Price Guide see page 206
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TR A VELERS ’ NEEDS  209

Where to Eat and Drink


Paris DK Choice Price Guide
Prices are for a three-course meal for
ILE DE LA CITE, MARAIS & one, including half a bottle of house
CHAMPS-ELYSEES & INVALIDES: BEAUBOURG: Spring €€€ wine, and all extra charges.
L’Arpège €€€ Modern French Map D3 € under €30
Traditional French Map C4 6 Rue Bailleul, 75001 €€ €30 to €65
84 Rue de Varenne, 75007 Tel 01-45 96 05 72 Closed Sun & €€€ over €65
Tel 01-47 05 09 06 Closed Sat & Sun Mon
A mecca for vegetable-lovers, this Spring’s chef Daniel Rose, LEFT BANK:
eatery is all about home grown a magician in the kitchen, La Tour d’Argent €€€
produce and sophisticated dining. produces a superlative Traditional French Map E4
fixed-price tasting menu that 15 Quai de la Tournelle, 75005
CHAMPS-ELYSEES & INVALIDES: is dependent on the freshest Tel 01-43 54 23 31 Closed Sun & Mon
La Fontaine de Mars €€€ produce available. He cooks World-famous institution with a
Regional Map B3 unique versions of French romantic dining room boasting
129 Rue St-Dominique, 75007 classics, which can be enjoyed panoramic views. The bar doubles
Tel 01-47 05 46 44 with great wines from a vast as a gastronomic museum.
Duck cassoulet is the flagship dish selection. The sommeliers will
at this archetypal bistro. Beautiful be able to advise on suitable TUILERIES & OPERA: Chartier €€
interiors and great service. pairings. Open for dinner only. Traditional French
7 Rue du Faubourg Montmartre,
CHAMPS-ELYSEES & INVALIDES: 75009
Le Jules Verne €€€ LEFT BANK: El Loubnane €€ Tel 01-47 70 86 29
Modern French Map B3 Lebanese Map E4 At this iconic brasserie,
5 Avenue Gustave Eiffel, 75007 29 Rue Gallande, 75005 traditionally dressed waiters serve
Tel 01-45 55 61 44 Tel 01-43 26 70 60 Closed Mon simple, good food in glorious
Alain Ducasse’s restaurant on Enjoy deliciously fragrant meze belle-époque surroundings.
the Eiffel Tower’s second platform at this family-run establishment.
offers stylish dining to complement Do not miss the pistachio-stuffed TUILERIES & OPERA:
the 360-degree views over Paris. crêpes and katayef. Chez Georges €€
Traditional French Map D2
ILE DE LA CITE, MARAIS & LEFT BANK: Le Procope €€ 1 Rue du Mail, 75002
BEAUBOURG: L’Ambassade Traditional French Map D4 Tel 01-42 60 07 11 Closed Sat & Sun
d’Auvergne €€ 13 Rue de l’Ancienne Comédie, The bistro fare at this eatery is as
Auvergnat Map 9 B2 75006 old-fashioned as the decor, but it
22 Rue du Grenier St-Lazare, 75003 Tel 01-40 46 79 00 remains sublime. It was a favorite
Tel 01 42 72 31 22 The city’s oldest café, dating with famed cook Julia Child.
This rustic inn serves Auvergne from 1686, Le Procope still
dishes such as aligot (potatoes retains its original atmosphere. TUILERIES & OPERA:
with cheese and garlic). Great selection of desserts. Le Grand Véfour €€€
Modern French Map D3
ILE DE LA CITE, MARAIS & LEFT BANK: L’Agrume €€€ 17 Rue de Beaujolais, 75001
BEAUBOURG: Frenchie €€€ Modern French Tel 01-42 96 56 27 Closed Sat & Sun
Modern French 15 Rue des Fossés St-Marcel, 75005 The highly acclaimed chef, Guy
5–6 Rue du Nil, 75002 Tel 01-43 31 86 48 Closed Mon Martin’s innovative fare is served
Tel 01-40 39 96 19 Closed Sat & Sun & Sun in an 18th-century room where
One of Paris’s hottest bistros, Foodies line up at L’Agrume to Napoleon dined with Josephine.
Frenchie serves exquisite dishes sample the renowned chef’s
on fixed-price menus. Book ahead. five-course tasting menu. FARTHER AFIELD: Au Boeuf
Couronné €€
Traditional French Map F4
8 Avenue Jean Jaurès, 75019
Tel 01-42 39 44 44
The luxe burgundy leather and
gold furnishings set the stage for
over a dozen cuts of beef served
with frites or pommes soufflées.
Northern France
CARNAC: Le Calypso €€
Seafood
158 Rue du Pô, 56340
Tel 02-97 52 06 14 Closed Sun
dinner (except Jul & Aug); Mon
Le Calypso is a popular seafood
restaurant overlooking the oyster
Elegance and simplicity at L’Arpège, Paris beds of Anse du Pô.



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210  FR ANCE


DK Choice
LILLE: A l’Huitrière €€€
Seafood
3 Rue des Chats Bossus, 59800
Tel 03-20 55 43 41 Closed Sun
dinner
More than just a restaurant,
A l’Huitrière is also an oyster bar
and a seafood boutique where
you can buy the day’s catch. Try
the vinaigrette salad of smoked
eel with foie gras, pan-fried
lobster with tarragon, crayfish,
or the signature turbot.

DK Choice The dining room at the Café du Palais in Reims, featuring a stunning stained-glass roof
REIMS: Café du Palais €€ CHARTRES: Le Grand TOURS: La Roche Le Roy €€€
Traditional French Monarque, Le Georges €€€ Fine Dining
14 Place Myron Herrick, 51100 Fine Dining 55 Rue de St-Avertin, 37000
Tel 03-26 47 52 54 Closed Sun & 22 Place des Epars, 28000 Tel 02-47 27 22 00 Closed Sun & Mon
Mon Tel 02-37 18 15 15 Closed Sun dinner; This Michelin-starred restaurant
A much-loved family-run Mon serves classic top-notch French
brasserie with excellent main Sample excellent classic French cuisine and fine wines.
dishes, great desserts, and a fine cuisine at this gourmet restaurant,
selection of champagnes. The accompanied by grand cru wines.
decor consists of an Aladdin’s
cave of theatrical memorabilia DK Choice Burgundy and the
under a stained-glass roof. French Alps
NANTES: L’U.Ni €€€
Modern French ANNECY: Le Belvédère €€€
ROUEN: Le 37 €€ 36 Rue Fouré Modern French
Bistro Tel 02-40 75 53 05 Closed Mon 7 Chemin Belvédère, 74000
37 Rue St-Etienne-des-Tonneliers, & Tue Tel 04-50 45 04 90 Closed Sun dinner;
76000 Savvy young chef Nicolas Guiet Tue & Wed; Oct–May
Tel 02-35 70 56 65 Closed Sun & Mon heads this restaurant, which Lovely lake views and appetizing
Attractive city-center bistro has created ripples in gourmet contemporary food. Try the
serving modern cuisine. Find the circles. L’U.Ni’s signature dishes vegetable and flower cheesecake
daily specials on the blackboard. include barely cooked brill with served with a watercress coulis.
baby turnips and spinach, and
ST-MALO: Le Chalut €€€ desserts such as carrot and BEAUNE:
Seafood orange cake accompanied by Le Bistro de L’Hôtel €€€
8 Rue de la Corne de Cerf, 35400 a carrot and honey mousse. Bistro
Tel 02-99 56 71 58 Closed Mon & Tue 3 Rue Samuel Legay, 21200
Fishing-themed decor provides Tel 03-80 25 94 10 Closed lunch; Sun
the perfect ambience at this ORLÉANS: La Dariole €€ This chic bistro uses high-quality
Michelin-starred seafood eatery. Traditional French ingredients sourced from local
25 Rue Etienne Dolet, 45000 suppliers. It also boasts an
STRASBOURG: Tel 02-38 77 26 67 Closed Sat & Sun; excellent selection of wines.
Winstub Zuem Strissel €€ Mon, Wed & Thu: dinner
Regional A 15th-century half-timbered CHABLIS: Terroir €€
5 Place de la Grande Boucherie, 67000 building houses this little Regional
Tel 03-88 32 14 73 restaurant and tearoom. 16 Rue Auxerroise, 89800
The oldest eatery in Alsace serves Tel 03-86 18 98 52 Closed Sun
baeckeoffe (a mutton, beef, pork SAUMUR: Auberge St-Pierre €€ dinner; Mon & Tue; mid-Nov–Jan
casserole) and bibelekäse (cream Regional Expect innovative takes on classic
cheese and sautéed potatoes). 6 Place St-Pierre, 49400 dishes such as Burgundy snails
Tel 02-41 51 26 25 and beef bourguignon. Friendly
On a square near the château, in and efficient staff.
a former 15th-century monastery,
The Loire Valley this convivial restaurant serves DIJON: William Frachot €€€
hearty Burgundy dishes. Modern French
BLOIS: 5 Rue Michelet, 21000
L’Orangerie du Château €€€ TOURS: Les Saveurs €€ Tel 03-80 50 88 88 Closed Sun
Fine Dining Bistro & Mon
1 Avenue Jean Laigret, 41000 1 Place Gaston Paillhou, 37000 One of Dijon’s top restaurants,
Tel 02-54 78 05 36 Closed Sun & Mon Tel 02-47 37 03 13 Closed Sun & Mon the restaurant in the Hostellerie
The fine setting, in a château’s A chic and modern bistro serving du Chapeau Rouge provides
winter garden, is matched by tasty dishes. The kitchen uses inventive modern fare. Expect
the food and wine. The menu seasonal produce sourced dishes such as pigeon served
features innovative regional fare. from the daily market. with a beetroot and lychee sauce.
Key to Price Guide see page 209
206-211_EW_Europe.indd 210 14/07/16 2:28 pm

TR A VELERS ’ NEEDS  211

GRENOBLE: A Ma Table €€ ST-JEAN-DE-LUZ: Chez Pablo € CANNES: Angolo Italiano €€
Traditional Regional Italian
92 Cours Jean-Jaurès, 38000 5 Rue Mlle Etcheto, 64500 6 Rue des Batéguiers, 06400
Tel 04-76 96 77 04 Closed dinner Tue, Tel 05-59 26 37 81 Closed Mon & Tel 04-93 68 42 36 Closed Mon
Wed & Fri; Sat–Mon Tue dinner (Nov–Easter); Wed Neapolitan-run eatery with Italian
This beautiful restaurant prepares Friendly eatery with bench seating charcuterie and cheeses, grilled
dishes such as rabbit with mint and Basque seafood classics. meats, and seafood.
served with zucchini tagliatelle.
ST-JEAN-DE-LUZ: Le Kaïku €€€ CANNES: La Palme d’Or €€€
LYON: Le Canut et Les Gones €€ Fine Dining Fine Dining
Regional 17 Rue de la République, 64500 73 la Croisette, 06400
29 Rue Belfort, 69004 Tel 05-59 26 13 20 Closed Mon; Tel 04-92 98 74 14 Closed Sun–Tue
Tel 04-78 29 17 23 Closed Mon; Sep–Jun This fashionable, two-Michelin-
Classic Lyonnais dishes such as Inventive Basque cuisine by chef starred restaurant is part of the
coq au vin, andouillette, and tête Nicolas Borombo is served in an famous Hotel Martinez.
de veau are reinterpreted with old stone house. Superb fish.
flair at this bistro named after the DK Choice
silk workers of Lyon. TOULOUSE: Michel Sarran €€€
Fine Dining CARCASSONNE:
21 Boulevard Armand Duportal, 31000 La Marquière €€
Tel 05-61 12 32 32 Closed Sat & Sun; Regional
Southwest France Aug 13 Rue St-Jean, 11000
This chic establishment is headed Tel 04-68 71 52 00 Closed Wed &
BIARRITZ: Chez Albert €€ by one of France’s finest chefs. Thu; Jan 10–Feb 10
Brasserie A sublime gourmet experience. Located up in the Cité, La
51bis Allée Port des Pêcheurs, 64200 Marquière is a family-run local
Tel 05-59 24 43 84 Closed Wed favorite. The food is authentic
This bright, bustling seafood Southwestern – duck breasts
brasserie in the port of Biarritz The South of France and confits, foie gras, and
is blessed with great views. Try cassoulet. Oysters and other
the mixed seafood platter. AIX-EN-PROVENCE: seafood are also available.
Le Poivre d’Ane €€
BORDEAUX: Modern French
Le Bar-Cave de la Monnaie €€ 40 Place Forum des Cardeurs, 13100 DK Choice
Regional Tel 04-42 21 32 66 Closed Wed
34 Rue Porte de la Monnaie, 33000 Locals flock to this spot on the MARSEILLE: Chez Fonfon €€
Tel 05-56 31 12 33 picturesque Forum des Cardeurs Seafood
The chalkboard menu is short, with in the old town to eat good value, 140 Rue du Vallon des Auffes,
every item a Bordelaise specialty. seasonal tasting menus of French 13007
Accompany with local wines. cuisine with an exotic twist. Tel 04-91 52 14 38
Perched in a tiny fishing port
BORDEAUX: Miles €€ ARLES: La Grignotte € with unbeatable views of
Modern French Regional Map B3 Marseillaise fishermen in action,
33 Rue du Cancera, 33000 6 Rue Favorin, 13200 this elegant family-run seafood
Tel 05-56 81 18 24 Closed Mon Tel 04-90 93 10 43 Closed Sun restaurant has been serving the
Watch the chefs at this renegade Try the fish soup and beef stew local’s favorite bouillabaisse,
bistro while they prepare exquisite with Camargue rice at this cheery grilled fish, and raw oysters
but budget-friendly tasting menus. eatery. Good house wines. since it opened doors in 1952.
LA ROCHELLE: AVIGNON: La Fourchette €€
Le Boute en Train €€ Regional NICE: Voyageur Nissart €
Bistro 17 Rue Racine, 84000 Regional
7 Rue des Bonnes Femmes, 17000 Tel 04-90 85 20 93 Closed Sat & Sun 19 Rue Alsace Lorraine, 06000
Tel 05-46 41 73 74 Closed Sun & Mon A quirky restaurant, offering Tel 04-93 82 19 60 Closed Mon
Enjoy hearty classic fare made its own innovative take on Head here for exquisite regional
with market-fresh ingredients. Provençal classics, with lots of bistro dishes without the frills or
There is also a quality wine list. seafood and delicious cheeses. the tourist prices.
NICE: Passion’elle €€
Fine Dining
14 Rue Maccarani, 06000
Tel 04-93 82 24 12 Closed lunch
Classics, such as ratatouille and
lamb, are reinvented and served
in style. Good vegetarian choices.
NIMES: Aux Plaisirs des Halles €€€
Traditional French
4 Rue Littré, 30000
Tel 04-66 36 01 02 Closed Sun & Mon
Friendly eatery with tables indoors
and outdoors. Chalkboard menu
Rustic accents and cozy dining at La Marquière, Carcassonne features foie gras, steaks, and duck.



206-211_EW_Europe.indd 211 14/07/16 2:27 pm

212-215_EW_Europe.indd 212 14/07/16 10:44 am

FR ANCE AND THE L OW C OUNTRIES  213

BELGIUM AND

LUXEMBOURG


Famed for its magnificent Flemish art and Gothic architecture, Belgium, like
neighboring Luxembourg, is a melting pot of various influences, including
Dutch, French, and German. The histories of the two countries have long been
interlinked, but culturally and linguistically they are distinct. Luxembourg, a
major financial center, is one of the smallest states in Europe.


In recent times, both Belgium and History
Luxembourg have largely avoided the At the start of the 12th century, commerce
limelight, but it was here, in the Middle became the guiding force in Europe, and
Ages, that the first great towns of Northern the centers of trade quickly grew into
Europe were born, and where the first powerful cities. Rivers and canals were keys
experiments with oil paintings were to the growth of the area’s towns; Brussels,
made. Today, Brussels, as the center of Ghent, Ypres, Antwerp, and Bruges became
government for the European Union, is the focus of a cloth trade between Belgium,
theoretically the capital of Europe, but its France, Germany, Italy, and England.
reputation remains overshadowed by In 1369 Philip, Duke of Burgundy,
those of the larger European capitals. married the daughter of the Count of
Perhaps more than any other country in Flanders, and a few years later the Low
Europe, Belgium is most aptly defined by Countries and eastern France came under
contrasts. The division between the Flemish the couple’s Burgundian rule. A century
inhabitants of the north and the French- later, the death of Mary of Burgundy left
speaking Walloons in the south is mirrored her husband, the Habsburg Emperor
by a geographical divide; the estuarial Maximilian, ruler of Belgium. In 1488,
plains of Brabant and Flanders give way to Brussels and the rest of Flanders rebelled
the rolling hill-country of the Ardennes, against this new power, but the Austrians
which stretches south and east through prevailed, largely because of a plague
the castle-dotted woods of Luxembourg. which decimated the population in 1490.






















European Parliament building rising above the trees of Parc Léopold, Brussels
One of the majestic gilt-edged buildings surrounding the Grand Place, Brussels



212-215_EW_Europe.indd 213 14/07/16 10:44 am

214  FR ANCE AND THE L OW C OUNTRIES

By 1555, the Low Countries had passed Napoleon’s defeat, by the Dutch. William I
into the hands of the Spanish Habsburgs, of Orange was appointed King of the
whose Catholic repression of the Netherlands at the Congress of Vienna in
Protestants sparked the 1815, and his autocratic
Dutch Revolt. In the course style, together with a
of the wars that led to series of anti-Catholic
Dutch independence measures, bred
(1568–1648), the considerable discontent,
predominantly Catholic especially among the
southern part of the Low French-speaking
Countries remained under Walloons. An 1830
Spanish rule. In 1700, the uprising ousted the
Spanish Habsburg dynasty Dutch and made
died out, and England, Leopold I king of a
Austria, and other powers newly independent
united to oppose French Belgium. Nine years later,
designs on the region in the Luxembourg, a Grand- Amsterdam
War of the Spanish King Leopold I, the first king of the Belgians, Duchy since 1815, also
Succession. When the war crowned in 1830 gained independence. Hull NORTH NETHERLANDS
came to an end in 1713, the Both countries’ SEA
Treaty of Utrecht transferred Belgium and economies flourished throughout the Zeebrugge A1
Luxembourg to the Austrian Habsburgs. 19th century, but all was eclipsed with Oostende Bruges Antwerp A21
Belgium was again ruled by foreign the start of World War I. In 1940, the Ramsgate (Brugge) N49 (Antwerpen) Albert Kanaal N74
A14
powers between 1794 and 1830. First, by Germans invaded again, this time A18 A17 Ghent Scheldt A12 A1 A13 Dusseldorf
(Gent)
the French Republicans, and then, after under Hitler’s command. Calais Ijzer A10 Mechelen A24 A2 Cologne
Belgium’s history in the latter half Kortrijk N43 BRUSSELS Leuven N2
KEY DATES IN THE HISTORY OF of the 20th century was dominated by A19 A14 (Bruxelles/Brussel) Dijle N3 GERMANY
BELGIUM AND LUXEMBOURG the ongoing language debate between Escaut N62 A8 A54 Waterloo N29 A3 Liège N3 A3
N5
56 BC Julius Caesar conquers the Low Countries the Flemings and the Walloons. The N6BELGIUM Meuse Verviers
963 AD Count Siegfried establishes Luxembourg constitution was redrawn, creating a A16 A7 A15 Namur N90 A27
1229 Brussels granted its first charter federal state with three separate regions: Mons Charleroi
1430 Under Burgundian rule, Brussels becomes the Flanders, Wallonia, and Brussels. Sambre Dinant A26
major administrative center of the region Paris Ourthe
1482 The region falls under Austrian sovereignty Language and Culture FRANCE N97
A4 N4
Reims
1519 Charles V becomes Holy Roman Emperor In the north of Belgium, the Flemish N7
1555–1794 Spanish and Austrian rule have their roots in the Netherlands N5 N95 Bastogne Vianden
1794 French Republican armies take over and Germany, while the Walloons of N4 Echternach
1815 Belgium and Luxembourg pass to William I of the south are related to the French. Reims LUXEMBOURG
1
Orange, King of the Netherlands French is one of the official languages Arlon LUXEMBOURG
1830 Belgium gains independence of Luxembourg, as is German, but the
1839 Luxembourg gains independence A13
indigenous language is Letzeburgesch,
1914 Both countries invaded by Germany Saarbrücken
1940 Nazi troops occupy both countries a dialect of German spoken by all.
1958 EEC (now the EU) headquarters set up in Brussels Artistically, Belgium is best known for
1962 Act of Parliament divides Belgium into Dutch- its 17th-century painters (including
and French-speaking regions Rubens, van Dyck, and Jordaens) and
1967 NATO headquarters move to Brussels more recently for its Art Nouveau style
2000 Grand Duke of Luxembourg abdicates in favor of architecture and Surrealist artists,
of his eldest son, Henri such as Magritte. Today, the country
2013 King Albert II of Belgium abdicates in favor of is one of the world’s most popular
his son Philippe
producers of chocolate and beer.




212-215_EW_Europe.indd 214 14/07/16 10:44 am

BEL GIUM AND L UXEMBOURG  215

Exploring Belgium and Luxembourg

Brussels is not only the capital of Belgium, but also of
Europe, as the center of government for the European
Union. The city lies in the center of the country on the flat,
fertile Brabant plain. Today, its excellent communications
make it an ideal place from which to explore the historic
towns of Antwerp, Ghent, and Bruges. Toll-free motorways
compare favorably with any in France, train travel is swift
and competitively priced, and there are good bus services
in the areas not covered by trains. Transport in
Luxembourg is equally good, with the hub of
communications in Luxembourg City itself.
Sights at a Glance
The medieval market square, seen from the
1 Brussels pp216–23 4 Ghent Belfort tower, Bruges
2 Antwerp 5 Waterloo
3 Bruges pp226–8 6 Luxembourg
Amsterdam
NETHERLANDS
NORTH
Hull
SEA
A1
Zeebrugge
A21
Oostende Bruges Antwerp
Ramsgate (Brugge) N49 (Antwerpen) Albert Kanaal N74
A18 Ghent A14 A12 A1 A13
(Gent) Scheldt Mechelen A2 Dusseldorf
A17
Ijzer A24
Calais A10 Cologne
N43 Leuven
Kortrijk A14 BRUSSELS N3 N2
Escaut N62 Waterloo A3 N3
A19 (Bruxelles/Brussel) Dijle GERMANY
A3
A8 A54 N5 N29 Liège Verviers
N6BELGIUM N90 Meuse A27
A15
A16
A7 Namur
Mons
Charleroi
Sambre A26
Paris Dinant Ourthe
FRANCE N97
N4
A4
Reims
Bastogne N7
N5
0 kilometers 40 N95 Vianden
0 miles 40 N4 Echternach
LUXEMBOURG
Reims 1
Arlon A13 LUXEMBOURG
Saarbrücken
Key
Highway
Major road
Railroad
International border
Picturesque Château de Vianden, Luxembourg
For keys to symbols see back flap

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216  FR ANCE AND THE L OW C OUNTRIES


1 Brussels Antwerp
A1
With more than one million inhabitants, the Strombeek- Bruxelles National
Brussel Nationaal
Bever
Brussels-Capital Region is made up of nineteen RO A12
districts. The actual city of Brussels is much smaller N1
and divided into two main areas. Historically the R21 Diegen A201
poorer area, where workers and immigrants Ghent Jette Evere Zaventem N2 Liège
lived, the Lower Town is centered on the
splendid 17th-century Grand Place. Schaerbeek N2
The Upper Town, traditional home of NIEUWPOORT LAAN N8 A3 Kraainem N227
Woluwe-
the aristocracy, is an elegant area SHUTEITENKAAI KALKKAAI N6 BRUSSELS Saint-Lambert RO
Théâtre
that encircles the city’s green Flamand RUE GINESTE STR JARDIN Saint-Pierre Charleroi
Woluwe-
BOTANIQUE
oasis, the Parc de Bruxelles. Some QUAI AUX JARDIN BOTANIQUE St-Gilles Etterbeek
NIEUPORT
BLVD DU
of the most striking buildings in BOULEVARD DE BARBES QUAI A CHAUX BLVD EMILE JACQMAIN Rogier KRUIDTUINLAAN KRUIDTUIN Ixelles
LAAN
this part of the city are the shiny R. LOCQUENGHIEN LA RUE DU GRAND HOSPICE RUE DE LAEKEN LAKENSESTRAAT BLVD ADOLPHE MAX LAAN Botanique
STRAAT
GROOTGODSHUISSTR
postmodern structures of FLANDRE Ste-Cathérine PLACE DES BROEKSTRAAT Kruidtuin
RUE DE
BLVD BARTHELEMY R. DU GRAND SERMENT STR VLAAMSESTEENWEG ZWARTE LIEVEVROUWSTR BROUCKERE De Brouckère R. M O NTAGNE AUX R. DE LA BANQUE AAN BLVD PACHECO LAAN RUE DU CONGRES CHAUSSEE DE LOUVAIN LEUVENSESTEENWEG LAAN RUE
St-Katelijne
European institutions. MARTELAARS
MARTYRS
HE R B ES POTAGERES RUE DU MARAIS
LAAN
PLEIN
PLACE DES
PLACE DE
BARRICADES
BARRICADEN
R. DE LA VIERGE NOIRE
PLEIN
Hôtel Métropole
BLVD ANSPACH LAAN
PLEIN
AV. DE LA BRABANCONNE
W A R MOESBERGSTR
Théâtre
de la Monnaie
R. ROYALE KONINGSSTR
LAAN
De Munttheater
BLVD BISCHOFFSHEIM
RUE ANTOINE DANSAERT STR
STRAAT
GREVELINGENSTR
R. WILLEMS
STRAAT
RUE DES CHARTREUX
RUE DES
RUE DE LA SENNE ZENNESTR FABRIEKSTR R. VAN ARTEVELDE STRAAT TEINTURIERS de Ville R.DU MARCHE AUX HERBES R. DE LA MONTAGNE BLVD DE BERLAIMONT L BANKSTRAAT RUE DE LIGNE STR Palais de la Nation MADOU Madou R. DES DEUX EGLISES T
KARTUIZERSSTRAAT
PLACE
FABRIQUES
Galéries
Bourse
St Hubert
PLEIN
Beurs
PAVIASTRAAT
R. DES EBURONS STR
Bourse
BERGSTRAAT
R. DE LA PA CIFICA TION SQUARE
SQUARE
RUE DE PAVIE
Paleis der Naties
SQUARE
MARGUERITE
Beurs
R. DES PATRIOTES PATRIOTTENSTR
AVENUE
R. DES COLONIES
LOUISE
GRASMARKT
PALMERSTON
MARGARETA
KOLONIENSTR
SQUARE
MARIA-
LAAN
SQUARE
STRAAT
Hôtel
LOUIZA
R. CHARLES-MARTEL
RUE DES
SQUARE
KAREL-MARTELSTR
ANDERLECHTSESTEENWEG RUE DU MIDI ZUIDSTR R. DE LOMBARD STR BD DE L’IMPERATRICE KEIZERINLAAN Palais des Beaux Arts Parc RUE DE LA LOI RUE JOSEPH II JOZEF II STRAAT BLVD CH ARLEMAGNE
Gare Centrale
VERVERS
KAREL DE GROTELAAN
RUE D’ANDERLECHT
STRAAT
Centraal
RUE FRANKLIN
BLVD MAURICE LEMONNIER LAAN LOWER R. DE L’HOPITAL STRAAT KUNSTBERG Paleis voor PALEIZPLEIN HERTOGSTRAAT BOULEVARD DE REGENT LAA N Kunst-Wet AARLENSTRAAT TRIERSTRAAT Maalbeek CHAUSSEE D’ETTERBEEK Schuman S
Park
Station
BLVD DE L'ABATTOIR
SLACHTHUIS LAAN
BOULEVARD DE L’EMPEREUR
Arts-Loi
R. VERONESE STRAAT
Anneessens
R. LEBEAU KEIZERSLAAN
PARC DE
WETSTRAAT
BRUXELLES
Grande Mosquée
MONT
Maelbeek
UPPER
DES ARTS Schone Kunsten
W. DE ZWIJGERSTR
WARANDE
Grote Moskee
GASTHUISSTR
RUE DU TACITURNE
Berlaymont
Pavillon Horta
TOWN
TOWN
PLACE
ROUPPE
Horta Paviljoen
PLACE
RUE DE
TOULOUSE STR
ROND POINT
AVENUE DE PLEIN
R. DES URSULINES URSULINIENSTR
ROYALE
AV. DE LA RENAISSANCE
Résidence
R SCHUMAN
RUE HAUTE HOOGSTR
PLACE DES PALAIS
Musée Royal
KONINGS
PARC DU
Palace
PLEIN
de l'Armée
Quartier
REGENT SCHAPSSTRAAT
RUE BELLIARD STR
et d'Histoire Militaire
Européen
Museum van het Leger
RUE FROISSART STRAAT
R. DE TREVES
RUE D’ARLON
Notre Dame
Porte de
Europese
Trone
R. BODENBR
STR OECK
en de Krijgskunde
Wijk
Troon
SQUARE
Namur
BLVD DU MIDI
DE MEEUS
IJZERLAAN
RUE BLAES STRAAT
POINCARE LAAN
Kapelle
STALINGRAD LAAN Chapelle de la Chapelle MINIMENSTRAAT RUE DE LA REGENCE NAA M S ESTRAAT Naamse RUE DUCALE LUXEMBURGSTRAAT LUXEMBOURG RUE BELLIARD STRAAT JUBELPARK
BOULEVARD POINCARE
PARC
AVENUE DE L’YSER
ZAVEL STR
Poorte
R. DES SABLONS
et d'Histoire
PORTE DE
LEOPOLD
Lemonnier
TERVUREN
RUE DU LUXEMBOURG
DE MEEUS
Konings Musea voor
PLACE DU
PARK
SQUARE
GALLIERSLAAN
Kunst en Geshiedenis
KELTENLAAN Merode
RUE DE NAMUR
PLACE
PLEIN
Europees Parlementt
PLEIN
Two famous Belgians: Tintin POELAERT Palais d'Egmont R. DU TRONE TROONSTRAAT LUXEMBURG Parlement Européen ETTERBEEKSESTEEN WEG AVENUE D’AUDERGHEM HOORN STRAAT AV. DES GAULOIS AV. DES CELTES
AV. DES NERVIENS NERVIERSLAAN
Egmontpaleis
Gare de Bruxelles-
and Snowy JARDINS Luxembourg Station Musée des Sciences PLACE RUE DE CORNET PLACE
D’EGMONT
OUDERGEMSELAAN
PLACE DU
RUE HAUTE HOOGSTRAAT
PLEIN
TUIN
JEU DE BALLE RUE DES MINIMES BOULEVARD DE WATERLOO LAAN Brussel-Luxemburg Naturelles Museum voor JOURDAN VAN MEYEL
PLEIN
VOSSENPLEIN AVENUE DE LA TOISON GUILDENVLIESLAAN Natuurwetenschappen RUE GENERAL LEMAN STRAAT
Louise
Louiza
Sights at a Glance RUE BLAES STRAAT Palais de Justice CHAUSSEE DE WAV R E WAVERS E STEENWEG
R. DE QUATRE BRAS
VIERARMENSTRAAT
ZUID LAAN
1 Grand Place Justitie Paleis
HALLEPOORTLAAN
2 Musée du Costume et de
AV. DE LA PORTE DE HAL
la Dentelle
3 Manneken Pis
4 Centre Belge de la Bande
Dessinée
5 Cathédrale Sts-Michel et Gudule
6 Musées Royaux des Beaux-Arts Getting Around
7 Palais Royal Brussels’ Lower Town is well served by trams. However,
8 Place du Grand Sablon many streets are pedestrianized, and usually the
9 European Parliament Quarter quickest way of getting around is on foot. In the
0 Parc du Cinquantenaire Upper Town, the best option is to take one of the
buses that run through the district. Brussels’ metro
Greater Brussels (see inset map) stations are well placed for the main sights of interest,
q Musée Horta and the system offers a fast and efficient way of
w Bruparck reaching the suburbs.
216-217_EW_Europe.indd 216 14/07/16 10:44 am

BRUSSELS  217



Greater Brussels Antwerp
A1
Strombeek- Bruxelles National
RO A12 Bever Brussel Nationaal
N1
R21 Diegen
A201
Zaventem
Jette Evere N2
Ghent Schaerbeek Liège
NIEUWPOORT LAAN SHUTEITENKAAI KALKKAAI Théâtre RUE GINESTE STR N8 N6 BRUSSELS Saint-Lambert Woluwe- RO N227
N2
Kraainem
A3
Woluwe-
Flamand
JARDIN
BOULEVARD DE RUE DE QUAI AUX BARBES QUAI A LA CHAUX RUE DU GRAND HOSPICE RUE DE LAEKEN LAKENSESTRAAT BLVD EMILE JACQMAIN Rogier JARDIN BOTANIQUE KRUIDTUIN Botanique Revelers in costumes at a festival St-Gilles Ixelles Etterbeek Saint-Pierre 3 Charler
BOTANIQUE
0 kilometers
NIEUPORT
BLVD ADOLPHE MAX LAAN
BLVD DU
in the Grand Place
LAAN
0 miles
R. LOCQUENGHIEN
KRUIDTUINLAAN
STRAAT
Kruidtuin
GROOTGODSHUISSTR
Ste-Cathérine
BLVD BARTHELEMY R. DU GRAND SERMENT STR VLAAMSESTEENWEG R. DE LA VIERGE NOIRE PLACE DE De Brouckère HE R B ES POTAGERES RUE DU MARAIS BROEKSTRAAT R. DE LA BANQUE AAN BLVD PACHECO LAAN RUE DU CONGRES CHAUSSEE DE LOUVAIN LEUVENSESTEENWE
FLANDRE
St-Katelijne
PLACE DES
MARTYRS
MARTELAARS
LAAN
PLEIN
PLACE DES

BARRICADES
ZWARTE LIEVEVROUWSTR BROUCKERE
BARRICADEN
PLEIN
Hôtel Métropole
BLVD ANSPACH LAAN
PLEIN
AV. DE LA BRABANCONNE
R. M O NTAGNE AUX
W A R MOESBERGSTR
Théâtre
de la Monnaie
LAAN
R. ROYALE KONINGSSTR
De Munttheater
BLVD BISCHOFFSHEIM
STRAAT
RUE ANTOINE DANSAERT STR
GREVELINGENSTR
STRAAT
R. WILLEMS
RUE DES CHARTREUX
RUE DE LA SENNE ZENNESTR FABRIEKSTR R. VAN ARTEVELDE STRAAT RUE DES Bourse R.DU MARCHE AUX HERBES R. DE LA MONTAGNE BLVD DE BERLAIMONT L BANKSTRAAT RUE DE LIGNE STR Palais de la Nation MADOU Madou R. DES DEUX EGLISES TWEEKERKENSTR PACIFICATIE S
RUE DES
KARTUIZERSSTRAAT
FABRIQUES
PLACE
Galéries
PLEIN
St Hubert
Beurs
PAVIASTRAAT
Bourse
R. DES EBURONS STR
R. DE LA PA CIFICA TION SQUARE
BERGSTRAAT
SQUARE
RUE DE PAVIE
Paleis der Naties
SQUARE
Beurs
R. DES PATRIOTES PATRIOTTENSTR
MARGUERITE
AVENUE
LOUISE
R. DES COLONIES
GRASMARKT
PALMERSTON
KOLONIENSTR
MARGARETA
SQUARE
MARIA-
LAAN
SQUARE
Hôtel
STRAAT
R. CHARLES-MARTEL
LOUIZA
TEINTURIERS de Ville
SQUARE
KAREL-MARTELSTR
ANDERLECHTSESTEENWEG RUE DU MIDI ZUIDSTR R. DE LOMBARD STR BD DE L’IMPERATRICE KEIZERINLAAN Palais des Beaux Arts Parc RUE DE LA LOI RUE JOSEPH II JOZEF II STRAAT KAREL DE GROTELAAN ARCHIMEDESTRAAT RUE ARCH
Gare Centrale
RUE D’ANDERLECHT
VERVERS
STRAAT
BLVD CH ARLEMAGNE
Centraal
BLVD MAURICE LEMONNIER LAAN R. DES URSULINES URSULINIENSTR GASTHUISSTR R. LEBEAU KEIZERSLAAN DES ARTS Schone Kunsten PLACE DES PALAIS HERTOGSTRAAT BOULEVARD DE REGENT LAA N Kunst-Wet AARLENSTRAAT TRIERSTRAAT Maalbeek CHAUSSEE D’ETTERBEEK Schuma
RUE FRANKLIN
Park
Station
BLVD DE L'ABATTOIR
SLACHTHUIS LAAN
BOULEVARD DE L’EMPEREUR
R. VERONESE STRAAT
Arts-Loi
Anneessens
PARC DE
WETSTRAAT
Paleis voor
Maelbeek
MONT
Grande Mosquée
LOWER
BRUXELLES
UPPER
R. DE L’HOPITAL
W. DE ZWIJGERSTR
Grote Moskee
WARANDE
RUE DU TACITURNE
KUNSTBERG
Berlaymont
TOWN
Pavillon Horta
PLACE
TOWN
ROUPPE
STRAAT
Horta Paviljoen
PLACE
TOULOUSE STR
RUE DE
ROND POINT
AVENUE DE PLEIN
AV. DE LA RENAISSANCE
ROYALE
R SCHUMAN
Résidence
RUE HAUTE HOOGSTR
Musée Royal
PALEIZPLEIN
KONINGS
PARC DU
de l'Armée
Palace
PLEIN
REGENT SCHAPSSTRAAT
Quartier
RUE BELLIARD STR
et d'Histoire Militaire
Européen
Museum van het Leger
R. DE TREVES
Notre Dame
RUE D’ARLON
Europese
Trone
R. BODENBR
en de Krijgskunde
STR OECK
Wijk
SQUARE
Namur
Troon
BLVD DU MIDI
DE MEEUS
POINCARE LAAN
IJZERLAAN
Naamse
RUE BLAES STRAAT POELAERT Palais d'Egmont DE MEEUS PLACE DU Parlement Européen ETTERBEEKSESTEEN WEG RUE FROISSART STRAAT OUDERGEMSELAAN AV. DES NERVIENS NERVIERSLAAN AV. DES GAULOIS AV. DES CELTES
Kapelle
STALINGRAD LAAN Chapelle de la Chapelle MINIMENSTRAAT RUE DE LA REGENCE NAA M S ESTRAAT Porte de RUE DUCALE LUXEMBURGSTRAAT LUXEMBOURG RUE BELLIARD STRAAT JUBELPARK Musées Royaux d'Art AVENUE DE
BOULEVARD POINCARE
PARC
Poorte
ZAVEL STR
R. DES SABLONS
et d'Histoire
PORTE DE
LEOPOLD
Lemonnier
TERVUREN
RUE DU LUXEMBOURG
Konings Musea voor
TERVUURSEPOORT
PARK
SQUARE
Kunst en Geshiedenis
GALLIERSLAAN
KELTENLAAN Merode
LUXEMBURG
RUE DE NAMUR
PLACE
PLEIN
Europees Parlementt
PLEIN
Gare de Bruxelles-
Egmontpaleis
Luxembourg Station Musée des Sciences
JARDINS
PLACE
D’EGMONT
VAN MEYEL
RUE BLAES STRAAT Palais de Justice CHAUSSEE DE WAV R E WAVERS E STEENWEG
PLACE DU
Brussel-Luxemburg Naturelles Museum voor JOURDAN
RUE HAUTE HOOGSTRAAT
TUIN
PLEIN
JEU DE BALLE RUE DES MINIMES BOULEVARD DE WATERLOO LAAN R. DU TRONE TROONSTRAAT PLACE RUE DE CORNET HOORN STRAAT
PLEIN
VOSSENPLEIN AVENUE DE LA TOISON GUILDENVLIESLAAN Natuurwetenschappen RUE GENERAL LEMAN STRAAT
Louise
AVENUE D’AUDERGHEM
Louiza
R. DE QUATRE BRAS
VIERARMENSTRAAT
ZUID LAAN
Justitie Paleis
HALLEPOORTLAAN
AV. DE LA PORTE DE HAL
0 meters 500
0 yards 500
Key
Sight / Place of interest
Pedestrian street
Bronze statues in the Place du Petit Sablon in the Upper Town
For keys to symbols see back flap
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218  FR ANCE AND THE L OW C OUNTRIES


2 Musée du
Costume et de la
Dentelle
Rue de Violette 12. Tel 02-213 4450.
q Gare Centrale. @ 48, 95. Open
10am–5pm Tue–Sun. &
8 on request. 7 restricted.
Located within two 18th-
century gabled houses, this
museum is dedicated to one
of Brussels’ most successful
exports, Belgian lace, which
has been made here since the
12th century. The ground floor
Grand Place, Brussels’s historic main square has a display of costumes on
mannequins showing how lace
1 Grand Place resulting in the splendid has adorned fashions of every
Baroque ensemble that can era. Upstairs is a fine collection
q Bourse, Gare Centrale. @ 29,
38, 46, 47, 48, 66, 71. v 3, 4, 31, 32. be seen today. of antique lace from France,
Musée de la Ville: Maison du Roi. Tel Occupying the entire south- Flanders, and Italy.
02-279 4350. Open 10am–5pm Tue– west side of the square, the
Sun. Closed Jan 1, May 1, Nov 1 & 11, Gothic Hôtel de Ville (see 3 Manneken Pis
Dec 25. & 8 by prior arrangement. opposite) is the architectural
masterpiece of the Grand Rues de l’Etuve & du Chêne.
The geographical, historical, Place. Opposite it stands La q Gare Centrale. @ 48, 95.
and commercial heart of the Maison du Roi (1536). Despite v 3, 4, 31, 32.
city, the Grand Place is the first its name, no king ever lived
port of call for most visitors to here; the building was used The tiny statue of a young boy
Brussels. A market was held on as a temporary jail and a tax relieving himself is Brussels’
this site as early as the 11th office. Redesigned in Gothic most unusual sight. The original
century. During the first half style in the late 19th bronze statue by Jérôme
of the 15th century, Brussels’ century, it is now home Duquesnoy the Elder was
town hall, the Hôtel de Ville, to the Musée de la first placed on the site in
was built, and city traders Ville, which contains 1619. After it was stolen
began to add individual 16th-century paintings and damaged by a former
guildhalls in a medley of and tapestries, and a convict in 1817, a replica
styles. In 1695, however, two collection of around was made and returned
days of cannon fire by the 900 costumes created to its revered site. The
French destroyed all but the for the Manneken Pis. inspiration for the statue
town hall and two facades. On the square’s eastern is unknown, but the
Trade guilds were urged to flank, the vast Neoclassical mystery only lends itself
rebuild their halls to designs edifice known as La Maison to rumor and fable and
approved by the town council, des Ducs de Brabant was increases the little boy’s
designed by Guillaume Manneken Pis charm. One theory
de Bruyn and consists of statue claims that in the 12th
six former guildhalls. century, the son of a
Facing it are Le Renard, built in duke was caught urinating
the 1690s for the guild of haber- against a tree in the midst
dashers, and Le Cornet (1697), of a battle, and was thus
the boatmen’s guild hall, whose commemorated in bronze as a
gable resembles a 17th-century symbol of the country’s military
frigate’s bow. Le Roi d’Espagne, courage. When, in 1698, a city
also known as La Maison des governor provided a set of
Boulangers, was built in the late clothes with which to dress the
17th century by the wealthy statue, he began a tradition that
bakers’ guild. The gilt bust over is still observed today. Visiting
the entrance represents St. heads of state donate miniature
Aubert, patron saint of bakers. versions of their national
Today, the building houses one costume for the boy, and now
of the Grand Place’s best-loved a collection of 900 outfits,
La Maison du Roi, built on the site of old bars, whose first floor offers fine including an Elvis suit, can be
bread, meat, and cloth halls views of the bustling square. seen in the Musée de la Ville.
For hotels and restaurants see p234 and p235


218-219_EW_Europe.indd 218 14/07/16 10:14 am

BRUSSELS  219

Hôtel de Ville VISITORS’ CHECKLIST

The idea of erecting a town hall to reflect Brussels’ growth as a Practical Information
major European trading center had been under consideration Grand Place. Tel 02-279 2343.
since the end of the 13th century, but it was not until 1401 that Open for guided tours (in English:
2pm Wed, 11am, 3pm, & 4pm
the first foundation stone was laid. Completed in 1459, the Hôtel Sun; call 02-548 0447 for more
de Ville emerged as the finest civic building in the country, a details). Closed public hols &
stature it still enjoys. Jacques van Thienen was commissioned to election days. & 7
design the left wing, where he used ornate columns, sculptures, Transport
turrets, and arcades. Jan van Ruysbroeck’s elegant spire helped q Bourse, Gare Centrale.
@ many routes. v 3, 4, 31, 32.
seal the building’s reputation. Tours of the interior are available,
with its 15th-century tapestries and works of art.
. Maximilian Room
This lavish hall, used today by the
city council, takes its name from
the portrait of Maximilian I of
Austria over the fireplace. It
contains 18th-century tapestries
depicting the history of
6th-century King Clovis.
. Council Chamber
This room was where the
ruling council of Brabant
The tower, begun in used to meet. Ancient
1449, is 96 m (315 ft) tapestries and gilt mirrors
The gabled roof, like high. It is topped by a line the walls above an
much of the town hall, statue of St. Michael, inlaid floor.
was fully restored in patron saint of Brussels.
1837 and cleaned
in the 1990s.

















Gothic Room
137 stone
statues adorn
the facades.



Wedding Room
A Neo-Gothic style dominates
this civil marriage office. Its
ornate carved timbers include
mahogany inlaid with ebony.




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220  FR ANCE AND THE L OW C OUNTRIES


began on the Gothic cathedral
in 1226 under Henry I, Duke of
Brabant, and continued over a
period of 300 years.
The cathedral interior is
relatively bare, due to Protestant
ransacking in 1579 and thefts
during the French Rev olution.
Over the west door, however,
is a magnificent 16th-century
stained-glass window of the
Last Judgment. Another
splendid feature is the
Art Nouveau entrance hall of the Centre flamboyantly carved Baroque
Belge de la Bande Dessinée pulpit in the central aisle, by
4 Centre Belge de an Antwerp sculptor, Hendrik
Frans Verbruggen. In the crypt
la Bande Dessinée are the remains of the original
Romanesque church, which
20 Rue des Sables. Tel 02-219 1980.
@ 29, 38, 63, 66, 71. v 25, 55, 92, 93. dates back to 1047. The white limestone facade of the
q Botanique, Rogier, Centrale. Open Cathédrale Sts-Michel et Gudule
10am–6pm Tue–Sun. Closed Jan 1,
Dec 25. & 8 0 = 7 6 Musées Royaux (1868–1914), the Musée Modern
des Beaux-Arts (19th century–present day), and
This unique museum pays tribute the Musée Magritte.
to the Belgian passion for comic Rue de la Régence 3. Tel 02-508 3211. The Musée Oldmasters
strips, or bandes dessinées, and to @ 27, 29, 38, 63, 65, 66, 71, 95. holds one of the world’s finest
world-famous comic-strip artists v 92, 93. q Parc, Centrale. Open collections of works by the
from Belgium and abroad. 10am–5pm Tue–Fri, 11am–6pm Sat & Flemish Primitive School. A
One of the exhibitions shows Sun. Closed public hols. & 8 call in work of particular note is The
advance. = - 0 7
the great comic-strip heroes, ∑ fine-arts-museum.be Annunciation (c.1415–25) by
from Hergé’s Tintin – who made the Master of Flémalle. The
his debut in 1929 – to the Six centuries of art, both Belgian trademarks of the Flemish
Smurfs and the Flemish comic- and international, are displayed Primitives are a lifelike vitality
strip characters Suske and in the four museums that make and a clarity of light. The
Wiske. Other displays explain up the Musées Royaux des greatest exponent of the style
the stages of putting together Beaux-Arts: the Musée was Rogier van der Weyden
a comic strip. There is also a Oldmasters (15th–18th centuries), (c.1400–64), the official city
series of life-size cartoon sets, of the Musée Fin-de-Siècle painter to Brussels, who has
special appeal to children. The several splendid
museum holds 6,000 original works on display at
plates, and a valuable archive the museum.
of photographs and artifacts. Peter Bruegel
The collection is housed in a the Elder (c.1525–69),
beautiful building, built in one of the most
1903–6 to the design of the outstanding Flemish
Belgian Art Nouveau architect artists, settled in
Victor Horta (see p223). Brussels in 1563.
His earthy scenes
5 Cathédrale Sts- of peasant life remain
his best known works,
Michel et Gudule and are represented
Parvis Ste-Gudule. Tel 02-217 8345. here by paintings
@ 29, 38, 63, 65, 66, 71. v 92, 93. such as The Bird
q Centrale. Open daily. & to crypt Trap (1565).
and treasury. 7 call in advance. Another highlight
of the Musée
Belgium’s finest surviving Oldmasters is the
example of Brabant Gothic world-famous
architecture, the Cathédrale Sts- collection of works by
Michel et Gudule is the national Peter Paul Rubens
church of Belgium. There has (1577–1640). The
been a church on this site since The Assumption of the Virgin (c.1615) by Assumption of the
at least the 11th century. Work Rubens at the Musées Royaux des Beaux-Arts Virgin stands out
For hotels and restaurants see p234 and p235


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BRUSSELS  221


among his religious canvases.
Other notable paintings include
van Dyck’s Portrait of Porzia
Imperial with her daughter Maria
Francesca (1620s) and Three
Children with Goatcart by Frans
Hals (c.1582–1666).
The Musée Fin-de-Siècle
focuses on the years between
1868 and 1914, during which
Brussels was the artistic capital
of Europe, thanks to the efforts
of James Ensor, Constantin
Meunier, and Victor Horta,
among others. In addition to
visual arts, the museum
explores the literature, poetry
and music of the period. One of
the highlights of this collection
is a 3D reconstruction of six Art
Nouveau buildings. The magnificent 19th-century Palais Royal in Upper Town
Works in the Musée Modern
vary greatly in style and subject to the Hall of Mirrors at Today, this is an area of
matter, from Neoclassicism to Versailles (see pp168–9), is upscale antiques dealers,
Realism, Impressionism, and where ceremonial occasions fashionable restaurants, and
Symbolism. The dramatic Death are held, and guests presented trendy bars, where you can
of Marat (1793) by Jacques-Louis to the king and queen. stay drinking until the early
David (1748–1825) can be seen hours of the morning.
in the old part of the museum. 8 Place du Grand At the far end of the square
The Musée Magritte is stands the lovely church of
devoted to one of Belgium’s Sablon Notre-Dame du Sablon, built
most famous artists and a major @ 27, 48, 95. v 92, 93. q Louise, in the Brabant Gothic style,
exponent of Surrealism, René Parc. and boasting
Magritte (1898–1967). Spread some glorious
over five floors, it is the world’s Located on the slope of the stained-glass
largest collection of his work escarpment that divides windows. On
and covers all periods of his Brussels in two, the Place du the opposite
life, from the dazzling early Grand Sablon is like a stepping side of the road
Cavernous period of the late stone between the upper and to the church is
1920s to the renowned Domain lower towns. The name “sablon” the Place du
of Arnheim (1962). derives from the French “sable” Petit Sablon.
(sand), and the square is so In contrast to
7 Palais Royal called because this old route the busy café Notre-Dame du
scene of the
down to the city center once
Place des Palais. Tel 02-551 2020. @ passed through sandy marshes. larger square, Sablon window
27, 29, 38, 63, 65, 66, 71, 95. v 92, 93. these pretty
q Trône, Parc. Open 10:30am–5pm formal gardens are a peaceful
Tue–Sun (last adm 4:30). Closed mid- spot to stop for a rest. Sit
Sep–mid-Jul. = 7 ∑ monarchie.be and admire the set of bronze
statues by Art Nouveau artist
The official home of the Belgian Paul Hankar, each representing
monarchy, this is one of the a different medieval guild of the
finest 19th-century buildings in city. At the back of the gardens
the Upper Town. Construction is a fountain, built to
began in the 1820s on the site commemorate Counts Egmont
of the old Coudenberg Palace. and Hoorn, the martyrs who led
Work continued under Léopold a Dutch uprising against the
II (reigned 1865–1909), when tyrannical rule of the Spanish
much of the exterior was under Philip II. On either side
completed. The most lavish of the fountain are 12 further
state reception rooms include statues of prominent 15th- and
the Throne Room, with 28 wall- 16th-century figures, including
mounted chandeliers, and the Terrace café on the upscale Place du Gerhard Mercator, the Flemish
Hall of Mirrors. The latter, similar Grand Sablon geographer and mapmaker.




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222  FR ANCE AND THE L OW C OUNTRIES




















The triumphal central archway and surrounding colonnades of the Parc du Cinquantenaire
9 European Parliament (the other two are in 0 Parc du
Parliament Quarter Strasbourg and Luxembourg). Cinquantenaire
This gleaming building has its
@ 12, 21, 22, 27, 34, 36, 54, 64, 79, 80. critics: the huge structure Avenue de Tervuren. @ 27, 28, 36, 80.
v 81, 82. q Schuman, Mérode.
q Maelbeek, Trône, Schuman. housing the hemicycle that
seats the 750-plus MEPs has Musées Royaux d’Art et d’Histoire:
The vast, modern steel-and- been dubbed “Les Caprices Tel 02-741 7211. Open Tue–Sun.
Closed public hols. & =
glass complex located just des Dieux” (“Whims of the ∑ kmkg-mrah.be Musée Royal
behind the Quartier Léopold Gods”), which refers both to de l’Armée et d’Histoire Militaire:
train station is one of three the shape of the building, Tel 02-737 7811. Open Tue–Sun.
homes of the European similar to a French cheese Closed Jan 1, Dec 25. & 7
of the same ∑ klm-mra.be Autoworld: Tel
name, and 02-736 4165. Open 10am–6pm daily
to its lofty (5pm in winter). Closed Jan 1, Dec 25.
aspirations.
The Parc The finest of Léopold II’s grand
Léopold, projects, the Parc and Palais du
next to the Cinquantenaire were built for
Parliament, has the Golden Jubilee celebrations
some notable of Belgian independence in
Art Nouveau 1880. The park was laid out on
buildings and unused marshland. The palace,
is a delightful at its entrance, was to comprise
Brussels’s European Parliament building known as spot for a walk a triumphal arch, based on the
“Les Caprices des Dieux” or a picnic. Arc de Triomphe in Paris (see
Brussels and the European Union
In 1958, following the signing of the Treaty of Rome in the previous year, the European Economic
Community (EEC), now the European Union (EU), was born, and Brussels became its headquarters.
Today, the city remains home to most of the EU’s
institutions. The European Commission, the EU
body that formulates policies, is based in the vast
Berlaymont building. The city is also one of the
seats of the European Parliament, which currently
has 751 members, known as MEPs (Members of
the European Parliament). The most powerful
institution is the Council of Ministers, composed
of representatives of each member state. Each
nation has a certain number of votes, according
to its size. The Council must approve all legislation
for the EU, often a difficult task to accomplish
given that most Europe-wide legislation will
not be to the liking of every state. The signing of the Treaty of Rome, 1957


For hotels and restaurants see p234 and p235


222-223_EW_Europe.indd 222 14/07/16 10:14 am

BRUSSELS  223


p165), and two large exhibition w Bruparck
areas. By the time of the 1880
Art and Industry Exposition, Boulevard du Centenaire. Tel 02-474
however, only the two side 8383. @ 84, 88. v 3, 7, 19, 51.
q Heysel. Mini-Europe: Tel 02-474
exhibition areas had been 1313. Open daily. Closed Jan–mid-
completed. Further funds were Mar. & Océade: Tel 02-478 4944.
found, and work continued for Open weekends, public hols & school
50 years. The arch was hols. & 7 Kinepolis: Tel 02-474
completed in 1905. Until 1935, 2603. Open for performances only.
the large halls on either side of Atomium: Tel 02-475 4775. Open
the central archway were used daily. & 0 - = ∑ bruparck.
to hold trade fairs, before being com ∑ atomium.be
converted into museums.
Also known as the Musée du Located on the outskirts of the
Cinquantenaire, the excellent city, this theme park is popular
Musées Royaux d’Art et with families. The most visited
d’Histoire contain a vast array attraction is Mini-Europe, which
of exhibits. Sections on ancient has more than 300 miniature
civilizations cover Egypt, Greece, recons tructions (built at a scale
Persia, and the Near East. Other of 1:25) of Europe’s major sights,
displays feature Byzantium and Historic aircraft display at Musée Royal de from Athens’ Acropolis to
Islam, China and the Indian l’armée et d’Histoire Militaire London’s Houses of Parliament.
subcontinent, and the Pre- For movie fans, Kinepolis has
Columbian civilizations of the himself designed the house, 27 cinemas, including an
Americas. Decorative arts from between 1898 and 1901. The IMAX complex.
all ages include glassware, airy interior of the building If warmth and relaxation is
silverware, porcelain, lace, and displays trademarks of the required, Océade is a tropically
tapestries. There are also religious architect’s style – iron, glass, heated water park that features
sculptures and stained glass. and curves – in every detail, giant slides, wave machines, and
The Musée Royal de l’Armée while retaining a functional even artificial sandy beaches.
et d’Histoire Militaire deals approach. Most impressive are Towering over Bruparck is
with all aspects of Belgium’s the dining room, with its ornate Brussels’ most distinctive
military history. There are new ceiling featuring scrolled landmark, the Atomium.
sections on both World Wars, metalwork, and the central Designed by André Waterkeyn
as well as a separate hall staircase. Decorated with for the 1958 World’s Fair, and
containing historic aircraft. curved wrought iron, the stairs representing an iron crystal
Housed in the south wing are enhanced further by magnified 165 billion times, the
of the Cinquantenaire Palace, mirrors and glass, bringing structure has a viewing platform
Autoworld has one of the natural light into the house. and restaurant at the top.
best collections of classic
automobiles in the world.
Part formal gardens, part
tree-lined walks, the park
is popular with Brussels’s
Eurocrats and families at
lunchtimes and weekends.
q Musée Horta
Rue Américaine 23–25. Tel 02-543 0490.
@ 54. v 81, 82, 91. q Albert, Louise.
Open 2–5:30pm Tue–Sun. Closed
public hols. ∑ hortamuseum.be
Architect Victor Horta
(1861–1947) is considered
the father of Art Nouveau,
and his impact on Brussels’s
architecture is unrivaled by
any other designer of his time.
A museum dedicated to his
unique style is today housed
in his restored family home, in
the St. Gilles district. Horta The Atomium, rising 100 m (325 ft) over the Bruparck




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224  FR ANCE AND THE L OW C OUNTRIES


cathedral are two triptychs by equipped with period furniture,
Antwerp’s most famous son, his studio, and the kunst-kamer,
Peter Paul Rubens (1577–1640). or art gallery, where he exhibited
The narrow, winding streets of both his own and other artists’
the old town are lined with fine work and entertained friends
medieval guildhalls, such as the and wealthy patrons.
Vleeshuis, or Meat Hall, once
occupied by the Butchers’ Guild. E Koninklijk Museum voor
Dating from the early 16th Schone Kunsten
century, it is built in alternate Leopold de Waelplaats 1–9. Tel 03-224
stripes of stone and brick, giving it 9550. v 8. Closed for renovations
a streaky bacon-like appearance. until 2017.
When Rubens died in 1640, E Rubenshuis
he was buried in the family’s Wapper 9–11. Tel 03-201 1555.
chapel at the lovely sandstone @ 22, 25, 26. v 4, 7, 8, 10, 11.
Sint Jacobskerk (1491–1656), Open 10am–5pm Tue–Sun.
also located in the old town. Closed public hols. & 7
One of the most prestigious
Bronze statue of Silvius Brabo in Antwerp’s of Antwerp’s many museums is 3 Bruges
Grote Markt the Koninklijk Museum voor
2 Antwerp Schone Kunsten, which houses See pp226–8.
an impressive collection of
* 500,000. k £ @ n 13 ancient and modern art. Works
Grote Markt (03-232 0103). from the 17th century include
∑ visitantwerpen.be masterpieces by the “Antwerp
Trio” of van Dyck (1599–1641),
In the Middle Ages, Antwerp Jordaens (1593–1678), and
was a thriving hub of the Rubens. More modern exhibits
European cloth trade, and the include works by the Surrealist
principal port of the Duchy of René Magritte (1898–1967)
Brabant. Today, it is the main city and Rik Wouters (1882–1916).
of Flemish-speaking Belgium, During renovations which will
and the center of the last until 2017, major works
international diamond trade. will be on display at various
At the heart of the city’s old locations across the city.
medieval district is the Grote Other museums of note are
Markt. The Brabo Fountain, at the Diamond Museum and the
its center, has a statue of the Museum Plantin-Moretus,
soldier Silvius Brabo, said to which is devoted to the early
be the nephew of Julius Caesar. years of printing and celebrates
The square is overlooked by the the achievements of Antwerp’s Stone gatehouse of Ghent’s medieval
ornately gabled Stadhuis (Town most successful printer, Het Gravensteen
Hall), built in 1564, and the Christopher Plantin. 4 Ghent
Gothic Onze Lieve Vrouwe Rubenshuis was Rubens’
Kathedraal (Cathedral of Our home and studio for the last * 240,000. £ @ v n Sint-
Lady), which dates back to 1352. 30 years of his life. A tour takes Veerleplein 5 (09-266 5660).
Among the paintings inside the you around his living quarters, ∑ visitgent.be
The heart of Ghent’s historic
center was built in the 13th and
14th centuries, when the city
prospered as a result of the
cloth trade. The closure of vital
canal links in 1648, however,
led to a decline in the town’s
fortunes. In the 18th and 19th
centuries Ghent flourished again
as a major industrial center.
Dominating the old medieval
quarter is the imposing Het
Gravensteen, or Castle of the
Counts. Parts of the castle,
Jacob Jordaens’s joyous As the Old Sang, the Young Play Pipes (1638), in the Koninklijk once the seat of the Counts
Museum voor Schone Kunsten, Antwerp of Flanders, date back to the
For hotels and restaurants see p234 and p235


224-225_EW_Europe.indd 224 14/07/16 10:14 am

BEL GIUM AND L UXEMBOURG  225


night before the battle. Its
narrow rooms are packed with
curios alongside plans and
models of the battlefield.
The Musée de Cires (Wax-
work Museum) has models of
soldiers dressed in period
uniforms, while the Eglise
St-Joseph contains dozens of
memorial plaques to the British
soldiers who died at Waterloo.
For an excellent view over the
battlefield, head for the Butte
de Lion, a 45 m (148 ft) high
earthen mound, 3 km (2 miles)
The Pacification Hall in Ghent’s Stadhuis, with its impressive tiled floor south of the town. Next to it is a
gallery where Louis Demoulin’s
12th century, although most + Het Gravensteen fascinating circular painting
parts, including the gatehouse, Sint-Veerleplein. Tel 09-225 9306. Panorama de la Bataille is displayed.
were built later. Open 9am–5pm daily (Apr–Oct:
Many of Ghent’s finest historic 10am–6pm). & E Musée Wellington
buildings are found on Graslei, a E Museum voor Schone Kunsten Chaussée de Bruxelles 147. Tel 02-357
picturesque street that borders Citadelpark. Tel 09-240 0700. 2860. Open 10am–5pm daily. &
the Leie River. The street is lined Open 10am–6pm Tue–Sun.
with well-preserved guildhalls & 8 7
dating from the Middle Ages.
The magnificent St Baafs- 5 Waterloo
kathedraal has features
representing every phase of * 30,000. £ @ n Chaussée de
the Gothic style. In a small side Bruxelles 218 (02-352 0910).
chapel is one of Europe’s most ∑ waterloo-tourisme.com
remarkable paintings, Jan van
Eyck’s Adoration of the Mystic This small town is most famous
Lamb (1432). Opposite the for its association with the Battle
cathedral stands the huge of Waterloo, which saw Napoleon
14th-century Belfort (belfry). and his French army defeated by
From the top of the tower the Duke of Wellington’s troops
you can enjoy splendid views on June 18, 1815. The best place
of the city. From here, it is a to start a visit here is the Musée
short walk to the Stadhuis Wellington, which occupies the The Butte de Lion, viewed from the
(Town Hall), whose Pacification inn where Wellington stayed the battlefield of Waterloo
Hall was the site of the signing
of the Pacification of Ghent The Battlefields of Belgium
(a declaration of the Low
Countries’ repudiation of Belgium’s strategic position between France and Germany has
Spanish rule) in 1576. long made it the battleground, or “cockpit,” of Europe. Napoleon’s
Ghent’s largest collection of defeat at Waterloo was just one of many major conflicts resolved
fine art, covering all periods on Belgian soil. In the early 18th century, French expansion under
up to the 20th century, is in Louis XIV was thwarted here, and more recently, Belgium witnessed
the Museum voor Schone some of the bloodiest trench warfare of World War I, including the
Kunsten, some 20 minutes’ introduction of poison gas at Ypres (Ieper). Today, there are several
walk southeast of the center. vast graveyards, where the tens of thousands of soldiers who died
on the Western Front lie buried.
There are works by Rubens
and his contemporaries Jacob
Jordaens and Anthony van
Dyck. Occupying an elegant
18th-century townhouse, the
Design Museum Gent is a
decorative-arts museum, with
lavishly furnished 17th-, 18th-,
and 19th-century period rooms.
An extension covers modern
design, from Art Nouveau to Aftermath of Passchendaele (Third Battle of Ypres), 1917
contemporary works.




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226  FR ANCE AND THE L OW C OUNTRIES


3 Street by Street: Bruges

With good reason, Bruges is one of the most popular tourist
destinations in Belgium. The city owes its pre-eminent
position to the beauty of its historic center, where winding
lanes and picturesque canals are lined with splendid medieval
buildings. These are mostly the legacy of the town’s heyday as
a center of the international cloth trade, which flourished for
200 years from the 13th century. During this golden age,
Bruges’ merchants lavished their fortunes on fine mansions,
churches, and a set of civic buildings of such extravagance M A R K T
that they were the wonder of northern Europe. Today, the
streets are well maintained: there are no billboards or high-
rises, and traffic is heavily regulated.










S T E E N S T R A A T L O P P E M S T R

The Dijver River
A charming introduction to A A T O U D E B U R G
Bruges is provided by the boat S I
trips along the city’s canals. M O N


N
I
E U
S T E V I N P L E I N
W
S
T
M
R
A
S
A
A
R
I A A T
L
V
A
T
T
O S R
R
S K E R K H O F A A
Bus and T
train stations
Onze Lieve Vrouwekerk
Dating from 1220, the Church of
Our Lady employs many styles of
architecture and contains a Madonna
and Child by Michelangelo.
Memling in Sint-Jans-
hospitaal Museum
This 12th-century
hospital operated until
1976. It contains a
well-preserved 15th-
century dispensary.
For hotels and restaurants see p234 and p235
226-227_EW_Europe.indd 226 14/07/16 10:14 am

BRUGES  227



. The Markt VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
Medieval gabled houses
line this 13th-century Practical Information
market square at the heart * 117,000.
of Bruges, which still holds ∑ bezoekers.brugge.be
a market each Saturday. n Markt 1 & t’ Zand 34, inside
Concertgebouw (050-44 46 46).
Oude Griffie, or Old
Recorder’s House Transport
£ Stationsplein.
@ Stationsplein, Markt.
M A R K T

B U R G










Blind Donkey Alley
This tiny alley leads
W
O
L from the Burg to the
L
E 18th-century Vismarkt
S
T R A (Fish Market).
O U D E B U R G A T R O Z E N H O E D K A A I

Heilig Bloed
N
Basiliek
I
E
(see p228)
U
W
D I J V E R
S
T
R
A A T
Groeninge . Stadhuis
Museum One of the oldest and finest town halls
(see p228) in Belgium, this was built between
1376 and 1420. Inside, the beautifully
restored Gothic hall is noted for its
The Arentshuis Museum 1385 vaulted ceiling.
has paintings by Frank
Brangwyn (1867–1956).
Key
Gruuthuse Museum Suggested route
(see p228)
The Belfort
0 meters 100 Built in the 13th century, the Belfort,
or Belfry, is a stunning octagonal
0 yards 100
tower where the city’s medieval
charter of rights is held.



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228  FR ANCE AND THE L OW C OUNTRIES


E Groeninge Museum P Begijnhof
Dijver 12. Tel 050-44 8743. Open Wijngaardplein 1. Tel 050-33 0011.
9:30am–5pm (last adm: 4:30pm) Tue– Open daily. & (for Begijn House).
Sun. Closed Jan 1, Dec 25. & Béguines were members of a lay
Bruges’ premier fine-art museum sisterhood founded in 1245,
holds a superb collection of early who did not take vows, but led
Flemish and Dutch masters. a devout life. The begijnhof, or
Artists featured include Rogier béguinage, is the walled
van der Weyden (c.1400–1464), complex in a town that housed
Jan van Eyck (d.1441), and Hans the Béguines. In Bruges, this is
Memling (c.1430–94). Van Eyck’s an area of quiet tree-lined
Virgin and Child with Canon canals edged by white, gabled
(1436), a richly detailed painting houses. Visitors can enjoy a stroll
noted for its realism, and here and visit the simple church,
Memling’s Moreel triptych (1484) built in 1602. One of the houses,
are among the museum’s most now occupied by Benedictine
outstanding exhibits. Painted in nuns, is open to the public.
the early 16th century, the Last
Judgment triptych is one of a E Houishbrouwerij de
number of works at the museum Halve Maan
by Hieronymous Bosch (c.1450– Walplein 26. Tel 050-44 4222. Open
1516). Peter Brueghel the 11am–4pm Sun–Fri, 11am–5pm Sat
Younger (1564–1638) is also well Panel of Hans Memling’s Moreel triptych in (Nov–Mar: to 3pm). 8 every hour,
represented. Later Belgian works the Groeninge Museum compulsory. & ∑ halvemaan.be
include paintings by Surrealists Before World War I, there were 31
Paul Delvaux (1897–1994) and porcelain, and ceramics to breweries in Bruges. This one has
René Magritte (1898–1967). medical instruments and been producing Straffe Hendrik
weaponry. The authentic since 1856. Here, you can follow
kitchen and beautiful oak- the beer-making process, from
paneled chapel (1472) transport the first hops to a taste of the
visitors back to medieval times. finished product in the small
bar. There are also good views
R Heilig Bloed Basiliek of Bruges from the oast room at
Burg 13. Tel 050-33 6792. Open daily. the top of the building.
Museum: Open daily. Closed Wed
(Nov–Mar). & (for museum). E Volkskundemuseum
The Basilica of the Holy Blood is Balstraat 43. Tel 050-44 8764.
Bruges’ holiest church, holding Open 9:30am–5pm Tue–Sun.
one of the most sacred relics in This folk museum occupies an
Europe. In the upper chapel, attractive row of 17th-century
rebuilt after it was destroyed by brick almshouses in the northeast
Fifteenth-century oak-paneled chapel in the French in the 1790s, is a of the town. Each of the houses
the Gruuthuse Museum 17th-century tabernacle, which is dedicated to a different aspect
houses a phial said to contain a of traditional Flemish life. Several
E Gruuthuse Museum few drops of blood and water crafts are represented, and visitors
Dijver 17. Tel 050-44 8762. washed from the body of Christ are shown a series of typical
Closed for major renovation work by Joseph of Arimathea. historical domestic interiors.
until the end of 2017. &
This museum occupies a large
medieval mansion close to the
Dijver Canal. In the 15th century,
it was inhabited by a merchant
(the Lord of the Gruuthuse),
who had the right to levy a tax
on “gruit,” an imported mixture
of herbs added to barley during
the beer-brewing process. The
mansion’s labyrinthine rooms,
with their ancient chimney-
pieces and wooden beams,
have survived intact, and today
contain a collection of fine and
applied arts. The exhibits range
from wood carvings, tapestries, Pretty 17th-century almshouses, home to the Volkskundemuseum
For hotels and restaurants see p234 and p235


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BEL GIUM AND L UXEMBOURG  229

6 Luxembourg Vianden
* 1,600. @ n 1a Rue du Vieux
One of Europe’s smallest sovereign states, the Grand Duchy of Marché (83 42 57). Château de
Luxembourg is often overlooked by travelers in Europe. The Vianden: Tel 83 41 08 1. Open Apr–
capital, Luxembourg City, is well known as a world center of Sep: 10am–6pm; Oct, Mar:
international finance, but behind the modern face of the city 10am–5pm; Nov–Feb: 10am–4pm.
Closed Jan 1, Dec 25. & 8
lies a rich history stretching back more than 1,000 years. The
northern half of the country boasts some spectacular scenery, Surrounded by medieval
especially the Ardennes, a region of dense forests, deep ramparts, Vianden, in the
valleys, and hilltop castles. Historic towns such as Vianden and Luxembourg Ardennes, is a
Echternach are good bases for exploring the countryside and popular tourist destination. The
main attraction is the 11th-
offer plenty of opportunities for outdoor activities.
century Château de Vianden.
Its rooms feature a range of
architectural styles, from the
Romanesque to the Renaissance.
A cable car takes visitors to
the top of a nearby hill, giving
superb views of the castle.
Echternach
* 4,000. @ n 9–10 Parvis de la
Basilique (72 02 30). Abbey Basilica:
Open daily. Abbey Museum: Open
Apr, May & Oct: 10am–noon, 2–5pm
daily; Jun & Sep: 10am–noon, 2–6pm
daily; Jul & Aug: 10am–6pm daily. &
∑ echternach-tourist.lu
Luxembourg City, with its aqueduct and hilltop historic center Located in Petite Suisse (Little
Switzerland), a picturesque
Luxembourg City Ducal has been the official royal region of wooded hills north-
residence since 1890. The oldest east of the capital, Echternach
* 92,000. k 6 km (4 miles) E. £
@ n 30 Place Guillaume II (22 28 parts of the building, which is dotted with fine medieval
09). ∑ lcto.lu used to be the town hall, date buildings, including the 15th-
from the latter half of the 16th century turreted town hall. The
Luxembourg City enjoys a century. Nearby, the Cathédrale star sight, however, is the
dramatic location, set atop Notre-Dame was begun in Benedictine abbey, founded by
hills and cliffs rising above the 1613. Inside is a fine Baroque St. Willibrord in the 7th century.
Alzette and Pétrusse valleys. The organ gallery by Daniel Muller. The crypt of the abbey basilica
town grew up around a castle Two museums worth visiting (c.900) contains some glorious
built on a rocky promontory, are the Musée National frescoes. There are good walks
known as the Rocher du Bock, d’Histoire et d’Art, which has and cycle routes in the
in AD 963. The castle was a good archaeological section surrounding countryside.
destroyed in the late 19th and a collection of ancient
century by the city’s inhabitants, and modern sculpture and
but some of the fortifications paintings, and the Musée de
have been preserved, most l’Histoire de la Ville de
famously the Bock and Pétrusse Luxembourg, which focuses
Casemates. These huge on the city’s historical past.
networks of underground
defensive galleries, which date + Casemates
back to the 17th century, not Bock Casemates: Montée de Clausen.
only provided shelter for Open Mar–Oct: 10am–5pm. &
thousands of soldiers, but also Pétrusse Casemates: Place de la
housed workshops, kitchens, Constitution. Open Easter, Whitsun, &
bakeries, and slaughterhouses. end May–mid-Sep: 11am–4pm. &
The Crypte Archéologique du E Musée National d’Histoire
Bock has displays and an et d’Art
audiovisual presentation on the Place Marché aux Poissons. Tel 47 93
history of the city’s fortifications. 301. Open 10am–6pm Tue–Sun. & Medieval town hall in the Place du
Luxembourg City’s Palais Grand 8 7 Marché, Echternach




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230  FR ANCE AND THE L OW C OUNTRIES

Practical & Travel Information it is inadvisable to wander alone
at night in the poorer areas to
Visitors to Belgium and Luxembourg can expect high levels the west and north of the city
of service and comfort in all aspects of their stay. Public center, or in the city’s parks,
transporta tion is clean and efficient, and there are abundant especially Botanique.
tourist-information facilities, in addition to all the other In case of emergencies, the
numbers to call are listed in
modern conveniences one expects of a highly developed the Directory opposite.
country. Brussels and Luxembourg City are among the safest
capital cities in Europe, and can be easily explored on foot.
Language
The two principal languages
Tourist Information open from 10am until 5 or 6pm of Belgium are Dutch, spoken
In Belgium, the Visit Brussels Monday to Saturday, with some in Flanders, and French, the
Information Office publishes local shops closing for an hour language of the Wallonians.
maps and guides, and also offers at lunch. Some stores open at There is also a German-speaking
a Brussels Card. This “tourist noon on Mondays. In the major enclave in the far east of the
passport” includes one-, two-, or cities and towns, many stores country. In the capital, both
three-day passes to the Hop-on, are open on Sundays and until languages are used on all street
Hop-off buses in Brussels, later in the evening. signs and in place names.
combined with unlimited access In both countries, most Luxembourg has three
to 30 museums. This can be museums are closed on official languages: French,
bought online. A similar scheme Mondays. Outside the high German, and Letzeburgesch,
operates in Bruges, Antwerp, season (April to September), or Luxembourgeois. In both
and Ghent. be prepared to find many Belgium and Luxembourg,
Luxembourg’s National Tourist sights of interest closed. especially in the capital
Office offers the Luxembourg cities, many people speak
Card, which gives unlimited Visa Requirements very good English.
travel on public transport nation-
wide, as well as admission to Citizens of the EU, US, Australia, Banking and Currency
more than 30 sites of interest, New Zealand, and Canada do
and reductions on many others. not require a visa to enter either The currency in Belgium and
The card, valid for one, two, or Belgium or Luxembourg, but Luxembourg is the euro
three days, can be bought at must present a valid passport (see p23). All euro bills and coins
the City Tourist Office as well as and hold proof of onward are exchangeable in each of the
through the LNTO website and at passage (EU citizens need a participating Eurozone countries.
hotels, campsites, youth hostels, valid ID document). Bear in Banking hours are generally
and train and bus stations. mind that in Belgium it is a from 9am to 4pm Monday to
Local tourist information legal requirement to carry ID Friday in Belgium and 9am to
offices can be found in most on one’s person at all times. 4:30pm on weekdays in
towns and villages throughout Luxembourg. In both countries,
Belgium and Luxembourg. many of the banks close for an
Safety and Emergencies hour at lunchtime, and some
Belgium and Luxembourg are of the city branches open on
Opening Hours safe countries, with street crime Saturday mornings.
Most stores and businesses in against visitors a relatively rare
Belgium and Luxembourg are occurrence. However, in Brussels,
Communications
Belgian post offices are open
The Climate of Belgium from 9am to 5pm Monday to
and Luxembourg BRUSSELS Friday. In Luxembourg, the
Belgium and Luxembourg °C/ºF hours are 9am to noon and
have a temperate climate, 1:30pm to 5pm Monday to
characterized by constant 23/73 Friday. Some larger branches
low rainfall throughout the 14/57 11/52 15/60 open on Saturday mornings.
year. Winters are usually 5/41 6/43 4/39 Many public payphones
chilly and damp, and rain 0/32 in Belgium and Luxembourg
may turn to snow or sleet. 4.5 5.5 3.5 1.5 accept only phonecards,
Summers are warmer and hrs hrs hrs hrs available at newsagents and
much brighter, but the 57 94 82 67 post offices. In Brussels, you
evenings can still be cool. mm mm mm mm can use cash in the phone
Spring is the driest season. month Apr Jul Oct Jan booths at metro stations.
There are no local area
codes in Luxembourg.




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BEL GIUM AND L UXEMBOURG  231

Arriving by Air Rail Travel provides services in Wallonia.
Belgium’s principal airport is Belgium is at the heart of Europe’s Bus terminuses are usually
Brussels National Airport, high-speed train networks. close to train stations.
known locally as Zaventem. Eurostar services between Luxembourg benefits from an
Flights into Luxembourg Brussels’ Gare du Midi and extensive bus network, which
arrive at Findel Airport, which London’s St. Pancras station take compensates for the more
is 6 km (4 miles) east of around 2 hours. The Thalys limited railroad system. One-day
Luxembourg City. network links Brussels with passes are available, and can be
Airlines flying to Belgium Amsterdam, Paris, and Cologne. used on both long-distance and
and Luxembourg include Within Belgium, train services inner-city buses and trains from
Brussels Airlines (Belgium) are operated by Belgian the time of purchase until 8am
and Luxair (Luxembourg), National Railways (Société the next day. Benelux Tourrail
British Airways, bmi regional, Nationale de Chemins de Fer passes are valid on buses
KLM, and Lufthansa. Brussels Belges/Belgische Spoorwegen). operated by Chemins de Fer
is also served by Air Canada The network is modern and Luxembourgeois.
and Delta Air Lines. Most efficient, and usually the best
flights from Canada and the way to travel between major
US go via another European cities and towns. Luxembourg’s Traveling by Car
city. Ryanair has low-cost flights rail system is run by Chemins de Drivers from the UK can reach
between Brussels and various Fer Luxembourgeois (CFL). In mainland Europe by the car
European cities. both countries, a variety of train service offered by
train passes is available. The Eurotunnel. Within Belgium and
Benelux Tourrail pass allows Luxembourg, the freeways and
Arriving by Sea
unlimited travel on any three main roads are well maintained
Belgium can be easily reached or five days within a month’s and fast. Variations between the
by ferry from Britain several period in Belgium, Luxembourg, French and Flemish spellings of
times daily. DFDS Seaways and the Netherlands. town names can be confusing;
has a number of crossings it is advisable to find out both
every day between Dover names of your destination
and Dunkirk. P&O Ferries Traveling by Bus before beginning your journey.
also operates regular ferry In Belgium, the two main long- All the major car-rental firms are
crossings from Dover to distance bus operators are De represented in Belgium and
Calais (France) and from Lijn, which covers routes in Luxembourg, but renting a
Hull to Zeebrugge. Flanders, and TEC, which vehicle is fairly expensive.
DIRECTORY
Tourist Offices Embassies Luxembourg Rail Travel
Belgium UK (Belgium) Police Tel 113. Belgian National
Grand Place 1, 1000 Ave d’Auderghem 10, All other services Tel 112. Railways
Brussels. Tel 02-513 8940. B-1040 Brussels. Tel 02-528 2828.
∑ visitbelgium.com Tel 02-287 6211. Airlines ∑ belgianrail.be
Luxembourg UK (Luxembourg) Brussels Airlines Chemins de Fer
City Office, 5 Blvd Joseph II, L-1840 Luxembourgeois
Place Guillaume II, Luxembourg City. Tel 090-251 600 (Belgium). Tel 24 89 24 89. ∑ cfl.lu
Luxembourg City. Tel 22 98 64. Tel 0905-609 5609 (UK).
Tel 42 82 82 10. US (Belgium) Tel 866-308 2230 (US). Eurostar
∑ visitluxembourg.com Blvd du Régent 27, ∑ brusselsairlines.com Tel 070-79 79 79 (Belgium).
UK B-1000 Brussels. Luxair Tel 08432-186 186 (UK).
∑ eurostar.com
Belgian Tourist Office Tel 02-811 4000.
Tel 020-7537 1132. US (Luxembourg) Tel 0352-2456 4242 Thalys
Tel 0800-954 5245. 22 Blvd Emmanuel (Luxembourg). ∑ luxair.lu Tel 70 66 77 88 (Belgium).
∑ belgiumtheplace to. Servais, L-2535 ∑ thalys.com
be Luxembourg City. Ferry Companies
Luxembourg Tourist Office. Tel 46 01 23. Buses
∑ visitluxembourg.com DFDS Seaways
Emergency De Lijn
US Numbers Tel 0871-574 7235 (UK). Tel 070-220 200.
Belgian Tourist Office ∑ dfdsseaways.co.uk ∑ delijn.be
Tel 212-758 8130. Belgium P&O Ferries
Luxembourg Tourist Police Tel 101. TEC
Office Ambulance and Fire Tel 0800 130 0030 (UK). Tel 01-023 5353.
∑ visitluxembourg.com Department Tel 100. ∑ poferries.com ∑ infotec.be




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232  FR ANCE AND THE L OW C OUNTRIES

Shopping & Entertainment Brussells’ famous Marché aux
Puces is held daily on the Place
Belgium is an ideal place to shop for luxury goods, from fine du Jeu de Balle, though the
chocolates and cutting-edge fashion to mounted diamonds. biggest assortment of items
As a virtually duty-free zone, Luxembourg attracts tourists in can be found on Sundays.
search of cheap cigarettes and alcohol. For relatively small
cities, Brussels and Luxembourg City offer a wide range of Bookstores
cultural events. Those who prefer outdoor activities will find In Brussels, Waterstones sells
plenty to entertain them. The flat Flanders region in Belgium English-language magazines
is ideal cycling country, while the hilly Ardennes and the and books. For international
Petite Suisse area of Luxembourg are popular with hikers. newspapers, go to the Librairie
Louis d’Or or Sterling Books.
English-language books and
newspapers can be bought in
Where to Shop
a fall in the number of people Luxembourg City at Chapter 1.
For luxury items and gifts, one entering the trade in recent
of Brussels’ best shopping years has resulted in a shortage Entertainment Listings
arcades is the Galéries Saint- of authentic, handmade goods.
Hubert. It houses several Before purchasing an item, The principal sources of
jewelry stores, the Belgian make sure it has not been entertainment information
leather-bag maker Delvaux, manufactured in the Far East. in Belgium are The Bulletin,
fine chocolate stores, and Places to shop for authentic published weekly online, and
smart boutiques. The Galéries Belgian lace include Maison F. the Agenda listings magazine.
d’Ixelles is full of tiny ethnic Rubbrecht in Brussels and the Details of events in
shops and cafés, while the Kant Centrum in Bruges. The Luxembourg are available
quaint Galérie Bortier is the latter also has a museum of online via the www.visit
place to shop for antiquarian lace-making. luxembourg.com website.
books and maps. Specialty Belgian beers can be
Top fashion designers are bought at Brussels’ Beer Mania, Opera, Classical Music,
well represented in Brussels. while Little Nemo and Utopia
Their outlets can be found on specialize in comic-strip and Dance
Avenue Louise and Boulevard memorabilia. If you plan to Brussels’ Opera House, La
de Waterloo. For the original invest in diamonds, or simply Monnaie, is among Europe’s
creations of the Antwerp Six wish to gaze and admire, finest venues for opera. The
and of new-wave designers, Diamondland in Antwerp is a season runs from September
try Rue Antoine Dansaert. good place to start. through June, and most
Less expensive, mainstream Among the best buys in productions are sold out many
stores, including Belgium’s Luxembourg are fuel, tobacco, months in advance.
only department store, Inno, and alcohol, due to the low rate Designed by Victor Horta in
are located in the Rue Neuve. of duty imposed on such goods. 1928, the Palais des Beaux-Arts
Inno is not spectacular by One of the country’s most is home to the Belgian National
British or American standards. famous manufacturing names Orchestra and boasts the city’s
The principal shopping areas is Villeroy & Boch, makers of largest auditorium for classical
in Luxembourg City are the fine porcelain and tableware. music. The main concert season
Grand Rue and its side streets, Their flagship store is in the lasts from September to June.
and the Auchan shopping center, Rue du Fossé in the capital. Regular performances of
which is found on Kirchberg. There is also a factory outlet contemporary dance take place
northwest of the city center at the Art Deco Kaaitheater and
where you can buy seconds the Halles de Schaerbeek.
What to Buy at a 20 percent discount. Luxembourg’s Printemps
Belgian chocolate is considered Musical is a festival of classical
by many to be the finest in the music concerts and ballet
world. Among the internationally Markets that takes place in the capital
renowned “grandes maisons de From 9am on Saturdays and throughout April and May.
chocolat,” with stores in Brussels, Sundays, Brussels’ Place du Principal venues include the
are Godiva and Wittamer. The Grand Sablon is the site of a fine Conservatoire de Musique
sweet-toothed will also be antiques market. Also worth de la Ville de Luxembourg
tempted by the edible visiting is the huge, vibrant and the Grand Théâtre de
chocolate sculptures produced market around the Gare du Midi Luxembourg. The City Tourist
by Pierre Marcolini and by the (Sundays, 6am to 1pm), with its Information Office on the Place
wares of fine-biscuit specialist mix of North African and home- d’Armes is able to provide more
Dandoy. Another famous grown delicacies, including oils, information and assist with
Belgian export is lace, though spices, and exotic herbs. ticket reservations.




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BEL GIUM AND L UXEMBOURG  233

Jazz, Rock, and Blues blockbusters and major British consult the Rando-Vélo or
One of the best places to catch and French releases. Real movie Fietsroute cycling websites.
good jazz acts in Brussels is fans should not miss a visit to Tourist offices in Belgium and
Sounds, a large venue featuring the Musée du Cinéma in the Luxembourg also offer walking
some of Belgium’s top artists. Palais des Beaux-Arts complex. guides and maps. To arrange
The club also has Blues nights. The museum shows classic hiking tours in the Ardennes
On Saturday and Sunday films, from Chaplin to Tarantino, area, contact Belgium-based
afternoons, it is worth stopping with nightly programs of silent Europ’Aventure.
at L’Archiduc, a refurbished movies sometimes with a live- In Luxembourg, the lake at
Art Deco bar in the center of piano accompaniment. Echternach offers plenty of
town, where you can listen to opportunities for swimming,
jazz in a relaxed atmosphere. Outdoor Activities sailing, and windsurfing, while
Ancienne Belgique hosts the rivers of the Ardennes region
up-and-coming guitar bands, Belgium and Luxembourg have are fine territory for canoeing
folk, Latin, and techno acts. extensive networks of cycle and kayaking. For further infor-
tracks, and you can rent bicycles mation on the latter, contact the
easily from a number of outlets, Fédération Luxembourgeoise
Cinema
including many train stations. For de Canoë-Kayak. For infor-
At Brussels’ Bruparck (see p223), route details, the best source of mation on the whole range of
the 27-screen Kinepolis cinema information is the local tourist sporting activities available,
complex shows Hollywood information office. Alternatively, contact the City Tourist Office.
DIRECTORY
Shopping Maison F. Rubbrecht Waterstones Jazz, Rock,
Arcades Grand Place 23, Brussels. Boulevard Adolphe Max and Blues
Tel 02-512 0218. 71, Brussels.
Galérie Bortier Tel 02-219 2708. Ancienne Belgique
Rue de la Madeleine 55, Pierre Marcolini Boulevard Anspach 110,
Brussels. Rue des Minimes 1, Opera, Classical Brussels.
Brussels. Music and Dance Tel 02-548 2484.
Galéries d’Ixelles ∑ abconcerts.be
Chaussée d’Ixelles, Tel 02-514 1206. Conservatoire de
Brussels. Utopia Musique de la Ville de L’Archiduc
Rue du Midi 39, Brussels. Luxembourg Rue Antoine Dansaert 6,
Galéries Saint-Hubert Brussels.
Rue des Bouchers, Tel 02-514 0826. 33 Rue Charles Martel, Tel 02-512 0652.
Brussels. Villeroy & Boch Luxembourg City. ∑ archiduc.net
Tel 47 96 55 55.
2 Rue du Fossé,
Specialty Items Luxembourg City. Grand Théâtre de Sounds
Rue de la Tulipe 28,
Beer Mania Tel 46 33 43. Luxembourg Brussels.
1 Rond-Point Robert
Chaussée de Wavre 330 Rue Rollingergrund, Schuman, Luxembourg Tel 02-512 9250.
174–176, Brussels. Luxembourg City. City. Tel 47 96 39 00. ∑ soundsjazzclub.be
Tel 02-512 1788. Tel 46 82 12 78.
Halles de Schaerbeek Outdoor
Dandoy Wittamer Rue Royale Sainte-Marie Activities
Rue au Beurre 31, Place du Grand Sablon 6, 22a, Brussels.
Brussels. 12–13 Brussels. Tel 02-218 2107. Europ’Aventure
Tel 02-540 2702. Tel 02-512 3742. ∑ halles.be Tel 061-688 611 (Belgium).
∑ europaventure.be
Diamondland ∑ wittamer.com Kaaitheater Fédération
Appelmansstraat 33A, Bookstores Square Sainteclette 20, Luxembourgeoise
Antwerp. Brussels.
Tel 03-369 0780. Chapter 1 Tel 01-201 5959. de Canöe-Kayak
3 Route d’Arlon,
Godiva 42 Rue Astrid, ∑ kaaitheater.be L-8009, Strassen.
Grand Place 22, Luxembourg City. La Monnaie Tel 75 35 61 57.
Brussels. Tel 44 07 09. Place de la Monnaie, ∑ flck.lu
Tel 02-511 2537. Librairie Louis d’Or Brussels. Fietsroute
Tel 02-229 1211.
Kant Centrum Rue du Bailli 54, Brussels. ∑ lamonnaie.be ∑ fietsroute.org
Balstraat 16, Bruges. Tel 02-640 6432. Luxembourg City
Tel 050-33 00 72. Sterling Books Palais des Beaux-Arts Tourist Office
Rue Ravenstein 23,
Little Nemo Rue du Fossé aux Loups Brussels. Tel 22 28 09. ∑ lcto.lu
Boulevard Lemmonier 25, 23, Brussels. Tel 02-507 8200. Rando-Vélo
Brussels. Tel 02-514 6804. Tel 02-223 6223. ∑ bozar.be ∑ randovelo.org

232-233_EW_Europe.indd 233 14/07/16 10:14 am

234  BEL GIUM AND L UXEMBOURG

Where to Stay

Price Guide
Rest of Belgium Prices are based on one night’s stay in
high season for a standard double room,
ANTWERP: Hotel inclusive of service charges and taxes.
Rubens – Grote Markt €€ € up to €100
Luxury €€ €100 to €260
Oude Beurs 29, 2000 €€€ over €260
Tel 03-222 4848
∑ hotelrubensantwerp.be
A well-presented four-star hotel, Luxembourg
with a note of individuality owing
to its medieval lookout tower. BERDORF: Le Bisdorff €€
Luxury
BOUILLON: Panorama Hôtel €€ an der Heesbech 39, 6551
Modern Tel 79 02 08
Rue au-dessus de la Ville 25, 6830 ∑ hotel-bisdorff.lu
Tel 061-46 61 38 Old-fashioned hotel-restaurant
∑ panoramahotel.be surrounded by a garden. Guests
Impeccably furnished family-run enjoy an indoor pool and sauna.
A suite extending over two floors at Le hotel-restaurant with lovely views
Place d’Armes Hotel, in Luxembourg City over Bouillon and the castle. LUXEMBOURG CITY:
Belappart Studio Hotel €
Brussels DK Choice Budget
Rue du Fort Neipperg 69, 2230
BRUGES: Alegria €€ Tel 23 60 45 1
LOWER TOWN: Modern ∑ belappart.lu
Scandic Grand Place € Sint-Jakobsstraat 34, 8000 Small, modern apartment
Budget Map C2 Tel 050-33 09 37 accommodation, for both short
Rue d’Arenberg 18, 1000 ∑ alegria-hotel.com and long stays.
Tel 02-548 1811 Utterly charming family-run
∑ scandichotels.com guesthouse, close to the Markt, DK Choice
Centrally located and surprisingly the main square in Bruges. Each
well-appointed good-value hotel. of the well-equipped rooms LUXEMBOURG CITY:
has been thematically styled; Le Place d’Armes Hotel €€€
DK Choice some overlook the garden Boutique
to the rear. The owners offer
Place d’Armes 18, 1136
LOWER TOWN: Amigo €€€ excellent advice about what to Tel 27 47 37
Luxury Map C3 do and where to eat. A good ∑ hotel-leplacedarmes.com
Rue de l’Amigo 23–27,1000 complimentary breakfast is Located on the central square,
Tel 02-547 4747 served in the garden room. this five-star hotel is beautifully
∑ roccofortehotels.com designed, blending the historic
This five-star hotel provides – original fireplaces and beamed
supreme comfort, attention GHENT: Sandton Grand ceilings – with the modern. The
to detail, and polished service, Hotel Reylof €€ Cristallerie Restaurant and Le
where every client is treated Luxury Café de Paris (a bristo with a
as a cherished guest. Located Hoogstraat 36, 9000 wine bar), could dissuade
close to the Grand Place, this Tel 09-235 4070 guests from ever venturing out.
is the hotel of choice for ∑ sandton.eu Pampering luxury alongside
movie stars and presidents. Affordable luxury at this centrally impeccable service.
located hotel with well-
appointed rooms, a spa, a good
UPPER TOWN: Rembrandt restaurant, and excellent service. REMICH: Hôtel des Vignes €€
Hotel € Modern
Budget LEUVEN: Martin’s Klooster €€ Route de Mondorf 29, 5552
Rue de la Concorde 42, 1050 Boutique Tel 23 69 91 49
Tel 02-512 7139 Onze-Lieve-Vrouwstraat 18, 3000 ∑ hotel-vignes.lu
∑ hotelrembrandt.be Tel 01-621 3141 A polished hotel-restaurant set
A small and friendly guesthouse ∑ martinshotels.com amid vineyards, with views out
with great charm and loads of Spacious suites and rooms with onto the Moselle river.
individual character. a stylish touch in a renovated
16th-century monastery. VIANDEN: Hotel Heintz €
UPPER TOWN: Boutique
Odette en Ville €€€ LIÈGE: Crowne Plaza €€€ Grande-Rue 55, 9401
Boutique Luxury Tel 83 41 55
25 Rue du Châtelain, 1050 Mont Saint-Martin 9–11, 4000 ∑ hotel-heintz.lu
Tel 02-640 2626 Tel 04-222 9494 Well-established hotel with the
∑ chez-odette.com ∑ ihg.com feel of an Alpine lodge. South-
Located in the trendy Châtelain This stylish modern hotel is facing rooms have balconies and
area of Ixelles, Odette oozes retro attached to the grand old palace views of the castle ramparts; others
style and has a fêted restaurant. of the Sélys Longchamps family. face the gardens or old town.
234-235_EW_Europe.indd 234 14/07/16 2:30 pm

TR A VELERS ’ NEEDS  235

Where to Eat and Drink


Brussels DK Choice Price Guide
Prices are for a three-course meal
KNOKKE-HEIST: Sel Gris €€€ for one, including a half-bottle of
LOWER TOWN: Belga Queen €€ Belgian house wine, tax and service.
Belgian Map C3 Zeedijk 314, 8301 € under €40
Rue Fossé aux Loups 32, 1000 Tel 050-51 4937 Closed Wed & €€ €40 to €70
Tel 02-217 2187 Thu €€€ over €70
A splendidly theatrical restaurant This superb seafront restaurant,
in an imaginatively transformed a key player in the Belgian
19th-century bank. The refined culinary landscape, is run by Luxembourg
cuisine has a Belgian slant. There Frederik Deceuninck, who was
is also an oyster bar. awarded his first Michelin star BOURGLINSTER: La Distillerie €€
in 2008. Plaice, mackerel, skate, French
UPPER TOWN: La scallops, sole, lobster, and other Rue du Château 8, 6162
Canne en Ville €€ North Sea treasures all feature Tel 78 78 78 1 Closed Mon & Tue;
French in the exquisite dishes, which Wed lunch; Sun dinner
Rue de la Réforme 22, 1050 are presented like edible This renowned gourmet
Tel 02-347 2926 Closed Sat works of art. restaurant benefits from its
lunch; Sun magical setting in a medieval
Delightful eatery in a converted castle. There is also a more down-
butcher’s shop, with attractive KRUISHOUTEM: Hof van to-earth, but equally high-quality,
terrace seating in summer. A Cleve €€€ brasserie called Côté Cour.
good option before or after Belgian
visiting the nearby Musée Horta. Riemegemstraat 1, 9770 DK Choice
Tel 09-383 5848 Closed Sun &
Mon; Tue lunch LUXEMBOURG CITY:
Peter Goossens’s celebrated Clairefontaine €€€
Rest of Belgium three-star Michelin restaurant is French
housed in a pretty collection of Place de Clairefontaine 9, 1341
ANTWERP: Het Pomphuis €€ farm buildings, surrounded by Tel 46 22 11 Closed Sat & Sun
Belgian/French a tranquil countryside. One of the top addresses in
Droogdok, Siberiastraat 7, 2030 the heart of Luxembourg City,
Tel 03-770 8625 LEUVEN: Domus € Clairefontaine is a culinary
Housed in a 20th-century pump Brasserie experience that is not to be
house, this exhilarating eatery Tiensestraat 8, 3000 missed. Arnaud and Edwige
retains much of the original Tel 016-20 1449 Closed Mon Magnier offer exquisite French
machinery. It serves French- A traditional tavern supplied cuisine for gourmands in classic
Belgian fare with an Asian twist. by its own brewery next door. and sophisticated environs.
Enjoy snacks and pub food, such The five-course gourmet menu
ANTWERP: Zuiderterras €€ as pasta, salads, steaks, and is an unforgettable treat for a
Belgian/French pancakes. Breakfast available, too. special occasion.
Ernest van Dijckkaai 37, 2000
Tel 03-234 1275 TOURNAI: Giverny €€€
A pier leads out to this restaurant, Belgian/French WORMELDANGE: Mathes €€
which boasts unparalleled views Quai du Marché au Poisson 6, 7500 Belgian/French
of the Schelde river’s estuary. Tel 069-22 4464 Closed Mon, Tue; Route du Vin 37, 5401
On the menu is a wide range Sat lunch; Sun dinner Tel 76 01 06 Closed Mon & Tue
of French and Belgian classics. High-quality French and Belgian Housed in a mansion by the
Also open for breakfast. cuisine, with touches of fusion, is river Moselle in picturesque Ahn,
beautifully presented in a 19th- Mathes offers a menu that
BRUGES: Restaurant de Bühne € century baroque setting. Expect combines local specialties and
Belgian/French to see sashimi and curry spices good-quality French cuisine,
Sint-Salvatorskoorstraat 6, 8000 alongside waterzooi of lobster. including seafood from Brittany.
Tel 05-034 6649 Closed Mon & Tue
A charming restaurant serving
very good fish, fresh quiches and
pastries, and vegetarian options,
such as pumpkin soup. Try the
homemade fruit tarts for dessert.
GHENT: Brasserie Pakhuis €€
International
Schuurkenstraat 4, 9000
Tel 09-223 5555 Closed Sun
This converted warehouse full of
pizzazz is the place for French-
style brasserie fare, with twists
such as pigeon with Hokkaido
pumpkin, and Japanese fusion
dishes, plus a few Belgian classics. The magnificent interior of Belga Queen, housed in a former bank in Brussels
234-235_EW_Europe.indd 235 14/07/16 2:30 pm

236-239_EW_Europe.indd 236 14/07/16 10:14 am

FR ANCE AND THE L OW C OUNTRIES  237

THE NETHERLANDS


Situated at the mouth of the Rhine River, the Netherlands is a man-made
country that owes its life to the sea: much of the land once lay under water, and
a maritime trading tradition was the principal source of the nation’s wealth,
most notably in the 17th century. The Netherlands is also one of the world’s
most liberal countries, with a long history of cultural and racial tolerance.


The shape of the Netherlands (or Holland, are all in the west of the country and part
as it is also known) has changed dramatically of the urban conglo meration known as
over the last 2,000 years. Medieval maps the Randstad.
show nearly half of the country under
water, but since then, large areas have History
been reclaimed from the sea; the current Between the 4th and 8th centuries, after
shoreline is maintained by a drainage the collapse of the Roman Empire, the
system of windmills, dykes, and canals. area corresponding to present-day
With just under 17 million people in just Holland was conquered by the Franks.
41,547 sq km (16,041 sq miles) of land, it is As with all the Low Countries, it was later
the third most densely populated country ruled by the House of Burgundy, before
in Europe (after Monaco and Malta), but passing into the hands of the Habsburgs.
this is barely perceptible to the visitor. Only When the Habsburg Empire was divided
when arriving by plane do you see how in 1555, the region came under the
much of the area is still covered with water, control of the Spanish branch of the
and how little precious land remains. The family, which caused the Dutch Revolt
orderly Dutch cities and towns never seem of 1568, led by William I of Orange. The
overcrowded, but homes are often small, Dutch Republic was finally established
with steep, narrow staircases and modest in 1579, with the Treaty of Utrecht, but it
gardens. Given the fragility of their took until 1648 for the Spanish officially
environment, it is understandable that the to recognize its sovereignty.
Dutch are so good at preserving it. The battle for independence and the
The three biggest cities – Amsterdam, need for wealth to fight the Spanish
the capital, Rotterdam, the industrial hub, armies stimulated trading success
and the Hague, the seat of government – overseas. The Dutch colonized much of




















Skating on a frozen Dutch river, flanked by drainage windmills
A familiar Amsterdam sight of bicycles parked on the bridges that span the canal



236-239_EW_Europe.indd 237 14/07/16 10:14 am

238  FR ANCE AND THE L OW C OUNTRIES

Indonesia and established a profitable occupation in 1914, the Nazi invasion of
empire based on spice. The Dutch East 1940 left lasting scars on the nation. In
India Company thrived, and in the New the 1960s, the country became a haven
World, Holland briefly ruled for the hippy counter-
over large parts of Brazil. culture, an influence
Tulip bulbs were imported which is still visible today.
from Turkey and cultivated
behind the dunes, thus Language and Culture
beginning a lucrative flower Dutch, or Netherlandic,
industry that still flourishes is a Germanic language
today. However, war with which derives from the
England radically trimmed speech of the Western
Dutch sea-power by the end Franks. A number of dialects
of the 17th century, and are spoken, and in Friesland
from then on, the country’s the dialect (Fries) has Celtic
fortunes waned. In 1795, influences. Nevertheless, as
French troops ousted in so many European
William V of Orange, and in William I of Orange (1533–84), leader of the countries, the dialects are
Dutch Revolt
1813, with the retreat of disappearing due to the Ameland
Napoleon, the Netherlands united popularity of national tele vision stations Terschelling
with Belgium, its neighbor, an on which a standardized version of Dutch
arrangement which lasted for 17 years. is usually spoken. Vlieland z e e
The Netherlands remained neutral in Culturally, Holland has a huge amount to n
both World Wars, and although it escaped offer. Its rich history is reflected in countless d e A31 Leeuwarden
old buildings and its large number of fine d Harlingen Groningen
KEY DATES IN DUTCH HISTORY museum collections. The compact size of Texel W a A7
the city centers makes it easy to stroll
300–700 Region ruled by the Franks along a canal admiring gabled houses, and A7 Heerenveen
1419 Philip the Good of Burgundy begins to unify the Den Helder
Low Countries step into a museum for an hour or two, A32
1482 The Netherlands pass by marriage to the before ending the day at a nearby café or
Austrian Habsburgs pub. The Dutch also have much to boast in A50 Meppel
1555 Philip II of Spain inherits the Netherlands the realm of the performing arts, so visitors N9 N242 IJsselmeer Emmeloord
1568 The Dutch Revolt ends Spanish rule should find time to enjoy one of the world- Enkhuizen A6
1579 The northern districts unite, forming the famous orchestras or modern-dance N302 N50
Republic of the United Netherlands companies, or attend an organ concert in Alkmaar Hoorn Kampen
1602 The Dutch East India Company founded an old church, or simply spend an evening Markermeer Zwolle
1606–69 Life of Rembrandt in one of Amsterdam’s jazz clubs or rock- Newcastle Marken and Lelystad
1648 Spain recognizes Dutch independence and-pop venues. N247 Volendam N302 A28
1794–1813 The Napoleonic era brings the Haarlem AMSTERDAM A6
Netherlands under French control A fiercely independent people, the Dutch Harderwijk
1914–18 Holland is neutral during World War I have long been champions of freedom, Schiphol NETHERLANDS
1940–45 The country is occupied by Germany and have a traditional tolerance of A4 Paleis Het Loo
1949 The Dutch East Indies gain independence, minorities. Jews have been welcome for N201 Hilversum Amersfoort A1
becoming Indonesia centuries, and although Catholicism was Enschede
1957 The Netherlands joins the European Community banned after independence, the NOR TH Leiden Utrecht A50
The Hague
1980 Princess Beatrix becomes Queen authorities turned a blind eye to its SEA (Den Haag) A44 N11 A12 Duisburg
2000 Parliament legalizes controlled euthanasia practise. Today, that tolerance is extended Hoek van Holland Delft A12 Gouda A12 Arnhem
2002 The euro replaces the Dutch guilder to asylum seekers, gays and lesbians, and A2 Le k A15 A52
2010 Rise of right-wing politician Geert Wilders people of different backgrounds. A respect Hull, Vlaardingen Rotterdam Le k A27 Leerdam Tiel Nijmegen
2013 Queen Beatrice abdicates; Willem-Alexander is for the right to live one’s own life underlies Harwich A15 Waal
crowned king Antwerp Dordrecht Eindhoven Eindhoven A50
the liberal laws on prostitution and drugs.




236-239_EW_Europe.indd 238 14/07/16 2:32 pm

THE NE THERLANDS  239

Exploring the Netherlands The Netherlands

Although the Netherlands’ seat of government is at See main map
The Hague, Amsterdam is the nominal capital, and it is Groningen
here that the main cultural attractions can be found.
The folkloric villages of Marken and Volendam are only a NETHERLANDS
short drive away, as are the towns of Alkmaar, famous for
its traditional cheese market, Haarlem, with its nearby AMSTERDAM Enschede
bulbfields, and Utrecht, with its medieval churches. The
The port of Rotterdam, the pottery center of Delft, and Hague Rotterdam GERMANY
the university town of Leiden lie to the south and west.
Eindhoven
Sights at a Glance Antwerp Cologne
1 Amsterdam pp240–51 7 Leiden BELGIUM
2 Marken and Volendam 8 The Hague 0 km 90
3 Alkmaar 9 Delft 0 miles 90
4 Haarlem 0 Rotterdam
5 Paleis Het Loo
6 Utrecht

Ameland
Terschelling

e
e
Vlieland z
n
e A31 Leeuwarden
d Groningen
d Harlingen
a
Texel
W A7
A7
Typical Dutch rural scene, with children wearing Heerenveen
Den Helder
traditional dress A32
Key
Meppel
Highway N9 IJsselmeer A50
Major road N242 Emmeloord
Enkhuizen
Railroad A6 N50
International border N302
Alkmaar Hoorn Kampen
Markermeer Zwolle
Newcastle Lelystad
Marken and
N247 Volendam N302 A28
A6
Haarlem AMSTERDAM
0 km 20 Harderwijk
0 miles 20 Schiphol NETHERLANDS
A4 Paleis Het Loo
N201 Hilversum
Amersfoort A1
Enschede
NOR TH Leiden A50
SEA The Hague A44 N11 Utrecht Duisburg
(Den Haag) A12
A12
A12 Arnhem
Hoek van Holland Delft Gouda
Le k
A2
Vlaardingen Rotterdam Le k A15 Tiel A52
Hull, A27 Leerdam Nijmegen
Harwich A15 Waal
Dordrecht A50
Antwerp Eindhoven Eindhoven
For hotels and restaurants see p260 and p261 For keys to symbols see back flap
236-239_EW_Europe.indd 239 14/07/16 2:32 pm

240  FR ANCE AND THE L OW C OUNTRIES


1 Amsterdam

Amsterdam was founded in around 1200 as a small fishing
village on marshland at the mouth of the Amstel River. PRINSEN EILAND BICKERSSTRAAT
The young township grew to become the chief trading HAARLEMM E R PL Westerdok
city of northern Europe, and, in the 17th century, the WESTERDOKSDIJ K
center of a massive empire. With a population of GROTE
around 770,000, Amsterdam is today a place where VINKENSTRAAT
beauty and serenity coexist happily with a slightly BROUWERSGRACHT
HAARLEMMERDIJK
PALMSTRAAT
seamy side. From the seedy nightspots of the Red WILLEMSSTRAAT
BROUWERSGRACHT
Light District, to the grace and elegance of the L I J N B A A N S G R A C H T
city’s 17th-century canal houses and the rich L I N D E N G R A C H T HAAR LE MMERSTRAAT Centraal
LINDENSTR
HAARLEMMER HOUTTUINEN NIEUWE WESTER DOKSTR
cultural heritage of its museums, Amsterdam JORDAAN Station
BOOMSTR
boasts a variety of attractions. N A S S A U K A D E M A R N I X S T R A A T WESTERSTRAAT PRINS HENDRIKKADE
KE I ZER S GR ACH T
H E R E N G R A C H T
S TATIO NSPLE I N
Sights at a Glance A N J E L I E R S S T R A AT PRINSENGRA CHT PRINSENGRACHT KEI ZE RSG RAC HT H E R E N G R A C H T S I N G E L S I N G E L DE RUYTERKADE
T U I N S T R A AT
1 Oude Kerk Singelgracht EGELANTIERSGRACHT P I E T H E I N K A D E
2 Museum Ons’ Lieve Heer SPU IS TRAAT DAMR AK OOSTERDOKSKADE
NIEUWENDIJK
op Solder NIEUWEZIJDS VOORBURGWAL WARMO ES S TRA AT ZEEDIJK PRIN S Scheepvaarthuis
BLOEMGRACHT
3 Red Light District BLOEMGRACHT Westerkerk BEURS BEURSSTR GELDERSEKADE O o s t e r d o k
PLEIN
4 Museum Het Rembrandthuis BLOEMSTRAAT RAADH UISSTR. CENTRUM
5 Joods Historisch Museum R O Z E N G R A C H T DAM VOORBURGWAL Nieuw- OUDEWAAL IJ TU NNEL KATTENBURGERKADE
markt
6 Nieuwe Kerk ROZENSTRAAT PALEISSTR DAMSTR OUDEZIJDS ACHTERBURGWAL NIEUW BOOMSSLOOT HENDR I KKADE KATTENBURGERGR STR
BINNENKANT
MARKT
RECHT
LAURIERGRACHT
7 Koninklijk Paleis LAURIERSTRAAT OUDEZIJDS ACHTERBURGWAL DIJKSTR Oudeschans GROTE WITTENBURGERSTRAAT
KLOVENIERSBURGWAL
VALKENBURGERSTR
8 Amsterdam Museum LAURIERGRACHT H E R E N G R A C H T S I N G E L KALVERSTRAAT R O K I N NE S OUDEZIJDS ST ANTONIESBREE STR OUDESCHANS NIEUWE FOELI E STRAAT KLEINE WITTENBURGERSTRAAT
9 Begijnhof L I J N B A A N S G R A C H T ELANDSSTRAAT P R I N S E N G R A C H T P R I N S E N G R A C H T K E I Z E R S G R A C H T K E I Z E R S G R A C H T H E R E N G R A C H T SPU I STR AAT NIEUWEZIJDS VOORBURGWAL KLOVENIERSBURG
0 Anne Frank House ELANDSGRACHT L A A G T E N I E U W E V A A R T
q Jordaan Looier Kunst en GROEN BURGWAL JODENBREESTR RAPENBURGERSTR E N T R E P O T D O K WITTENBURGERGR
LOOIERSGR
w Golden Bend Antiekcentrum LOOIERSGR SINGEL Muziektheater: PLANTAGE K A D I J K HO OG T E Nieuwevaart
Waterlooplein
e Nemo NASS Nationale Opera & Ballet MUIDERSTR PARKLAAN Planetarium OOSTENBURGERGR
Werf 't
r Het Scheepvaartmuseum MARNIXSTRAAT LEIDSEGRACHT KONINGS S I NGEL A M S T E L W ATERLOO PLEIN KA DI J K Kromhout
PLEIN
Museum
t Plantage AMSTELSTR Hortus Botanicus PLANTAGE Geologisch PLANTAGE DOKLAAN STR
Amsterdam
Museum
y Hermitage Amsterdam A U KADE LEIDSESTRAAT VIJZELSTRAAT HEREN Museum GRACHT HERENGRACHT Hollandsche ARTIS SARPHATI S T RA AT
Willet-
ZEEBURGER
Schouwburg
u Rijksmuseum pp248–50 De Melkweg LANGE H E R E N Holthuysen G R A C H T A M S T E L NIEUWE KEIZERSGR MIDDENLAAN Aquarium
PRINSENGRACHT
i Van Gogh Museum De Stadsschouwburg LEIDSEPLEIN LEIDSE K E R K S T R A AT K E I Z E R S G R A C H T NIEUWE KERKSTRAAT PLANTAGE MUIDERGRACHT PLANTAGE MUIDERGRACHT M A U R I T SKAD E
PRINSENGRACHT
o Stedelijk Museum DWARS STR NIEUWE SPIEGELSTRAAT K E I Z E R S U TR EC HTSE S T R AAT G R A C H T NIEUWE W E E S P ER S T R A AT NIEUWE OOST
NIEUWE
NIEUWE
O V E R T O O M VONDELSTR STADHO U D ERSKADE VIJZELGRACHT KERKSTRAAT REGULIERSGRACHT G R A C H T A m s t e l Koninklijk ACHTERGRACHT S in g el g r a c ht
VALCKENIERSTRAAT
G R A C H T
P R I N S E N
LIJNBAANSGRACHT
Weesperplein
Tropenmuseum
P R I N S E N
VONDELSTRAAT VOSSIUSSTRAAT HOOFT STR STR NOORDERSTRAAT A M S T E L Theater Carré
WETERINGSCHA NS
CORNELISZ LUIJKEN HOBBEMA FREDERIKS PLEIN SA R P HAT I S TR A AT M A URITS K ADE
VA N B
JAN WETERINGSCHANS
VONDELP ARK PAULUS POTTERSTR STRAAT N. WITSEN KADE WESTEINDE OOSTEINDE
STR
Singelgracht
V A N E E GH E N S T R A AT PIETER A E R L E S T R A AT VERMEER R U Y S D A E L K A D E QUELLI J N BOLSTRAAT S T R A AT STAD H OU DERSKADE AMSTELDIJK
STRAAT
W I L L E M S P A R K W E G
Heineken
Brouwerij
VAN BREESTRAAT
VA
F L I N C K S T R A AT
Concertgebouw
PLEIN
HEMONYSTR
DE PIJP
OUDZUID CONCERTGEBOUW G. METSUSSTR JOHANNES H O B B E M A K A D E FRANS HALS G E R A R D D O U STR AAT SARPHATI- CEINTUURBAAN
A L B E R T
M A E S S T R
DE LAIRESSESTRAAT N I C O L A A S MIERIS VAN BAERLESTR STRAAT FERDINAND STRAAT G O V E R T PARK
C U Y P S T R A AT N WOUSTR
BAN
STRAAT
VAN
J J V I O T TA S T R A AT STRAAT FRANS JACOB P. BASTSTR 1e JAN STEEN SARPHATIPARK
J. M. COENENSTR
EM M A ST RA AT
OBRECHT
PLEIN RUYSDAEL A AT R. H ART ST R CEINTUURBAAN
REIJNIER VINKELESKADE
18th-century Torah mantle,
Joods Historisch Museum
240-241_EW_Europe.indd 240 14/07/16 10:09 am

A MSTERD A M  241






PRINSEN EILAND BICKERSSTRAAT
HAARLEMM E R PL Westerdok
GROTE WESTERDOKSDIJ K 0 meters 500
0 yards 500
L I J N B A A N S G R A C H T L I N D E N G R A C H T HAAR LE MMERSTRAAT Centraal Stained glass at the Oude Kerk
VINKENSTRAAT
HAARLEMMERDIJK
PALMSTRAAT
BROUWERSGRACHT
WILLEMSSTRAAT
BROUWERSGRACHT
N A S S A U K A D E M A R N I X S T R A A T A N J E L I E R S S T R A AT LINDENSTR PRINSENGRACHT KEI ZE RSG RAC HT H E R E N G R A C H T S I N G E L S I N G E L PRINS HENDRIKKADE Station DE RUYTERKADE P I E T H E I N K A D E Key Sight / Place of interes
HAARLEMMER HOUTTUINEN NIEUWE WESTER DOKSTR
BOOMSTR
JORDAAN
WESTERSTRAAT
PRINSENGRA CHT
KE I ZER S GR ACH T
H E R E N G R A C H T
STATIO NSPLE I N
T U I N S T R A AT
Singelgracht

DAMR AK
EGELANTIERSGRACHT
SPU IS TRAAT
WARMO ES S TRA AT
NIEUWENDIJK
OOSTERDOKSKADE
BLOEMGRACHT Westerkerk NIEUWEZIJDS VOORBURGWAL BEURSSTR ZEEDIJK GELDERSEKADE PRIN S Scheepvaarthuis Pedestrian street
BLOEMGRACHT BEURS O o s t e r d o k
PLEIN
BLOEMSTRAAT
CENTRUM
R O Z E N G R A C H T RAADH UISSTR. PALEISSTR DAM VOORBURGWAL NIEUW Nieuw- RECHT BINNENKANT HENDR I KKADE IJ TU NNEL KATTENBURGERGR STR KATTENBURGERKADE
OUDEZIJDS ACHTERBURGWAL
markt
ROZENSTRAAT
KLEINE WITTENBURGERSTRAAT
LAURIERSTRAAT
OUDEWAAL
LAURIERGRACHT R O K I N DAMSTR OUDEZIJDS ACHTERBURGWAL MARKT DIJKSTR BOOMSSLOOT Oudeschans GROTE WITTENBURGERSTRAAT
KLOVENIERSBURGWAL
OUDEZIJDS
VALKENBURGERSTR
LAURIERGRACHT
NIEUWE
ELANDSSTRAAT P R I N S E N G R A C H T P R I N S E N G R A C H T K E I Z E R S G R A C H T K E I Z E R S G R A C H T H E R E N G R A C H T H E R E N G R A C H T S I N G E L SPU I STR AAT NIEUWEZIJDS VOORBURGWAL KALVERSTRAAT NE S KLOVENIERSBURGWAL S
ELANDSGRACHT L A A G T E N I E U W E V A A R T
L I J N B A A N S G R A C H T
Looier Kunst en GROEN BURGWAL JODENBREESTR RAPENBURGERSTR E N T R E P O T D O K WITTENBURGERGR
Antiekcentrum LOOIERSGR K A D I J K H OOGTE Nieuwevaart
LOOIERSGR SINGEL Nationale Opera & Ballet PLANTAGE PARKLAAN
Muziektheater:
Waterlooplein MUIDERSTR Planetarium K A DIJ K OOSTENBURGERGR
Werf 't
LEIDSEGRACHT KONINGS S I NGEL A M S T E L W ATERLOO PLEIN Hortus Botanicus PLANTAGE Geologisch PLANTAGE DOKLAAN Kromhout STR
PLEIN
NASS
Museum
Amsterdam
Museum
LEIDSESTRAAT VIJZELSTRAAT HEREN Holthuysen GRACHT HERENGRACHT Schouwburg ARTIS S A RPH AT IST R AAT
AMSTELSTR
Museum
Hollandsche
MARNIXSTRAAT
ZEEBURGER
Willet-
KEIZERSGR
Aquarium
LANGE
A U KADE
NIEUWE
De Melkweg K E R K S T R A AT H E R E N G R A C H T A M S T E L NIEUWE KERKSTRAAT MIDDENLAAN
PRINSENGRACHT
De Stadsschouwburg LEIDSEPLEIN LEIDSE NIEUWE SPIEGELSTRAAT K E I Z E R S G R A C H T NIEUWE WEESPERSTRAAT PLANTAGE MUIDERGRACHT PLANTAGE MUIDERGRACHT M A U R I T SKAD E
G R A C H T
K E I Z E R S
PRINSENGRACHT
NIEUWE
NIEUWE
NIEUWE
O V E R T O O M VONDELSTR STADHO U D ERSKADE VIJZELGRACHT KERKSTRAAT REGULIERSGRACHT U TR EC HTSE S T R AAT G R A C H T A m s t e l Koninklijk ACHTERGRACHT OOST
S in g el g r a c ht
VALCKENIERSTRAAT
DWARS STR
G R A C H T
P R I N S E N
LIJNBAANSGRACHT
Weesperplein
Tropenmuseum
P R I N S E N
VONDELSTRAAT VOSSIUSSTRAAT HOOFT STR STR NOORDERSTRAAT A M S T E L Theater Carré
WETERINGSCHA NS
CORNELISZ LUIJKEN HOBBEMA FREDERIKS PLEIN S ARPHAT IS TR A AT M A URITS K ADE
VA N B
JAN WETERINGSCHANS
VONDELP ARK PAULUS POTTERSTR STRAAT N. WITSEN KADE WESTEINDE OOSTEINDE
STR
Singelgracht
V A N E E GH E N S T R A AT PIETER A E R L E S T R A AT VERMEER R U Y S D A E L K A D E QU E L LIJN BOLSTRAAT S T R A AT STAD H OU DERSKADE AMSTELDIJK
STRAAT
Heineken
W I L L E M S P A R K W E G
Brouwerij
VAN BREESTRAAT
VA
F L I N C K S T R A AT
Concertgebouw
PLEIN
DE PIJP
HEMONYSTR
OUDZUID CONCERTGEBOUW G. METSUSSTR JOHANNES H O B B E M A K A D E FRANS HALS GERA R D D O U STR AAT SARPHATI- CEINTUURBAAN
A L B E R T
M A E S S T R
DE LAIRESSESTRAAT N I C O L A A S MIERIS VAN BAERLESTR STRAAT FERDINAND STRAAT G O V E R T PARK
C U Y P S T R A AT N WOUSTR
BAN
STRAAT
VAN
J J V I O T TA S T R A AT STRAAT FRANS JACOB P. BASTSTR 1e JAN STEEN SARPHATIPARK Getting Around
The most useful tram routes for tourists are lines 1, 2, 4, 5,
EM M A ST RA AT
J. M. COENENSTR out to all the main sights. Lines 13, 14, and 17 lead west to
OBRECHT
PLEIN RUYSDAEL A AT R. H ART ST R CEINTUURBAAN 9, and 16, which go south from Centraal Station and branch
REIJNIER VINKELESKADE
Jordaan. Bus 22 serves Nemo and the Scheepvaartmuseum,
which you cannot reach by tram. A canalbus service runs
from the Singelgracht to Centraal Station, stopping at the Houseboats on Prinsengracht, in
major landmarks. Amsterdam’s western canal ring
For keys to symbols see back flap
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242  FR ANCE AND THE L OW C OUNTRIES


paintings and statues
were destroyed follow-
ing the Alteration in 1578,
the delicate15th-
century vault paintings
on the gilded ceiling
escaped damage. In
1755, the paintings
were hidden with layers
of blue paint and were
not revealed until 200
years later, in 1955. The
Oude Kerk’s stained-
glass windows were also
undamaged in the
ransackings of the late
16th century. The Lady
Chapel, which dates The parlor in Ons’ Lieve Heer op Solder
from 1552, contains
some of the best stained Solder (Our Lord in the Attic).
glass. The magnificent After the Alteration, when
oak-encased Great Amsterdam officially became
The Oude Kerk, a calm and peaceful haven at the heart Organ, the work of Protestant, many such hidden
of the Red Light District Christian Vater, was churches sprang up around the
added to the church in city. Built in 1663, the one here
1 Oude Kerk 1724. Restoration work on the served the Catholic community
organ continues until late 2017. until 1887, when the nearby St.
Oudekerksplein 23. Tel 020-625 8284.
v 4, 9, 16, 24. Open daily (Sun: pm Nicolaas kerk was completed.
only). Closed Jan 1, Apr 27, Dec 25. 2 Museum Ons’ Above the mock-marble altar is
5 11am Sun. & - 7 Lieve Heer op Jacob de Wit’s glorious painting
∑ oudekerk.nl The Baptism of Christ (1716). The
Solder tiny box bedroom where the
The origins of the Oude Kerk (Old Oudezijds Voorburgwal 38. Tel 020- resident priest slept is hidden
Church) go back to the early 624 6604. v 4, 9, 16, 24. Open daily off a bend in the stairs.
13th century, when a wooden (Sun and public hols: pm only). Closed The building became a
church was built on a burial Apr 27. & 8 - ∑ opsolder.nl museum in 1888, and today
ground on a sand bank. The contains elegantly refurbished
present Gothic structure is 14th Tucked away on the edge of the rooms, as well as a fine collec-
century, and has grown from a Red Light District is a restored tion of church silver, religious
single-aisled church into a 17th-century canal house, with artifacts, and paintings. Restored
basilica. As it expanded, the two smaller houses to the rear. to its former opulence, the parlor,
building became a gathering The combined upper floors with its magnificent fireplace, is
place for traders and a refuge for conceal a Catholic church, a splendid example of a living
the poor. Though many of its known as Ons’ Lieve Heer op room in the Dutch Classical
style of the 17th century. Entry
to the museum is through the
house next door, where a
cloakroom, café, and temporary
exhibitions are found.
3 Red Light District
v 4, 9, 14, 16, 24.
Prostitution in Amsterdam dates
back to the city’s emergence as
a port in the 13th century. By
1478, it had become so wide-
spread that attempts were
made to contain it. Prostitutes
straying outside their designated
area were marched back to the
The Death of the Virgin Mary by Dirk Crabeth, one of three restored stained-glass windows sound of pipe and drum. A
in the Oude Kerk’s Lady Chapel century later, the Calvinists tried
For hotels and restaurants see p260 and p261


242-243_EW_Europe.indd 242 14/07/16 10:14 am

A MSTERD A M  243


to outlaw the practise, but their
attempts were half-hearted, and
by the mid-17th century, pro-
stitution was openly tolerated.
In 1850, Amsterdam had a
population of 200,000 and a total
of 200 brothels, most of which
catered for rich clients.
Today, the Red Light District,
known locally as de Walletjes
(the little walls), is centered
around the Oude Kerk. The area
is crisscrossed by a network of
tiny lanes lined with garish sex
shops and seedy clubs. At night,
the little alleys assume a sinister
aspect, and it is not wise to
wander around alone, but by
day, hordes of visitors generate Interior of the Grote Synagoge, part of the Joods Historisch Museum
a festive atmosphere, and there
are interesting restaurants, bars, 5 Joods Historisch At first restricted to working in
and cafés, and beautiful canal- Museum certain trades, the Ashkenazi
side houses. The council is cam- Jews were granted full civil
paigning to make the area safer Nieuwe Amstelstraat 1. Tel 020-531 equality in 1796. Their
and culturally more attractive. 0310. q Waterlooplein. v 9, 14. synagogues were
4 Nationale Opera & Ballet. Open central to Jewish life
4 Museum Het daily. Closed Apr 27, Yom Kippur, in Amsterdam until
Jewish New Year. & 8 on request.
Rembrandthuis 7 - ∑ jhm.nl the devastation
caused by the Nazi
Jodenbreestraat 4. Tel 020-520 0400. This complex of four occupation of World
q Nieuwmarkt. v 9, 14. Open daily. synagogues was built in War II, which left
Closed Apr 27, Dec 25. & 8 = the 17th and 18th centuries them empty. The
∑ rembrandthuis.nl by the Ashkenazi Jews, who buildings were
arrived in Amsterdam from restored in the
Born in Leiden, Rembrandt eastern Europe in the 1630s. 1980s and
(1606–69) worked and taught in connected by
this house from 1639 until 1656. internal walkways.
He lived in the ground-floor In 1987, they
rooms with his wife, Saskia, opened as a
who died here in 1658, museum
leaving the artist with a dedicated to
baby son, Titus. Many of Jewish culture and
the artist’s most famous the history of Judaism
paintings were created in the Netherlands.
in the first-floor studio, The impressive
which, along with the Grote Synagoge, 18th-century
other rooms in the with its bright and Torah scroll finial
house, has been airy interior, was
restored and refurbished designed by Elias
to show exactly how it Bouman and first opened in
looked in the 17th 1671. Next door is the Nieuwe
century. On display is an Synagoge (New Synagogue),
excellent selection of built in 1752. It is dominated by
Rembrandt’s etchings the wooden Holy Ark (1791),
and drawings, including which came from a synagogue
various self-portraits in Enkhuizen.
showing the artist in Religious art and artifacts on
different moods and display include Hanukah lamps,
guises. There are also Torah mantles, and scroll finials.
landscapes, nude The buildings were renovated in
studies, and religious 2006; a print room was created
pieces, as well as in the basement and a children’s
temporary exhibitions The house where Rembrandt lived and worked in the museum on the upper floor in
of other artists’ works. mid-17th century the former Obbene Shul.




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244  FR ANCE AND THE L OW C OUNTRIES


6 Nieuwe Kerk
Dam. Tel 020-638 6909. v 1, 2, 4, 5
& many others. Open daily during
exhibitions; see website for details.
& 7 - = ∑ nieuwekerk.nl
Dating from the late 14th
century, Amsterdam’s second
parish church was built as the
population outgrew the Oude
Kerk (see p242). During its
turbulent history, the Nieuwe
Kerk (New Church) has been
destroyed by fire, rebuilt, and
then stripped of its treasures
after the Alteration of 1578,
when the Calvinists took civil
power. It eventually reached its The splendid Classical facade of the 17th-century Koninklijk Paleis
present size in the 1650s.
Albert Vinckenbrinck’s The Classical design by Jacob historical museum. Today,
flamboyant carved pulpit (1664) van Campen (1595–1657) some of the museum’s
is the focal point of the church reflects the city’s mood of exhibitions also focus on
interior, reflecting the Protestant confidence after the Dutch contemporary Amsterdam.
belief that the sermon is central victory. Civic pride is also shown At the core of the collection
to worship. Other notable in the allegorical sculptures by is a 45-minute historical tour
features include Jacob van Artus Quellien (1609–68), which of the city called “Amsterdam
Campen’s ornate Great Organ decorate the pediments, and DNA.” This explores Amsterdam’s
(1645) and, in the apse, the tomb in François Hemony’s statues four main characteristics: spirit of
of the famous 17th-century and carillon. enterprise, freedom of thought,
commander-in-chief of the Inside, the full magnificence civic virtue, and creativity. Key
Dutch Navy, Admiral de Ruyter of the architecture is best moments from the city’s history
(1607–76), by Rombout Verhulst. appreciated in the huge are explored chronologically,
Burgerzaal (Citizens’ Hall). Based and there are displays featuring
on the assembly halls touch-sensitive multimedia
of ancient Rome, screens showing animations
this 29 m (95 ft) and film footage.
high room runs the Also contributing to the
length of the building, museum’s detailed account of
and boasts a superb Amsterdam’s history are such
marble floor, as well fascinating items as a globe
as epic sculptures belonging to the famous
Rombout Verhulst’s memorial to Michiel de Ruyter in the by Quellien. Most of cartographer Willem Blaeu and
apse of the Nieuwe Kerk the furniture on a 1648 model of the Koninklijk
display dates from Paleis, designed by Jacob van
7 Koninklijk Paleis 1808, when Louis Bonaparte Campen (1595–1657).
took over the building as his Amsterdam’s wealth from
Dam. Tel 020-620 4060. v 1, 2, 4, 5
& many others. Open usually Tue–Sun royal palace. trade attracted many artists,
(daily Jul–Sep) but check website for who chronicled the era in great
latest information. Closed public 8 Amsterdam detail. There are paintings of the
hols and when King in residence. Museum city and the port, as well as
& 8 check website. 7 portraits of both prominent and
∑ paleisamsterdam.nl Kalverstraat 92, St. Luciensteeg 27. ordinary citizens. The paintings
Tel 020-523 1822. v 1, 2, 4, 5, 9 & of anatomy lessons include one
The Koninklijk Paleis, still used many others. Open daily. Closed Apr by Rembrandt, The Anatomy
occasionally by the Dutch royal 27, Dec 25. & 8 7 - = Lesson of Dr. Jan Deijman (1656).
family for official functions, was ∑ amsterdammuseum.nl This shows the dissection of
built as the Stadhuis (Town “Black Jan,” a convicted criminal
Hall). Work began on this vast The convent of St. Lucien who had been hanged.
sandstone edifice in 1648, after was turned into a civic In the Civic Guards’ Gallery,
the end of the 80 Years’ War orphanage in the latter half contemporary group portraits
with Spain. It dominated its of the 16th century. The hang between their 17th-
surroundings, and more than original red-brick convent was century counterparts,
13,600 piles were driven into enlarged over the years, and emphasizing Amsterdam’s
the ground for the foundations. in 1975 it opened as the city’s cultural diversity.
For hotels and restaurants see p260 and p261


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A MSTERD A M  245


Dominating the gallery is one for lodgings within the 0 Anne Frank House
of the museum’s most extra- complex, these worthy women Prinsengracht 267. Tel 020-556 7105.
ordinary exhibits: a 17th- undertook to educate the poor v 13, 14, 17. 4 Prinsengracht.
century 5.30-m (17-ft) statue and look after the sick. Open daily (Jan 1 & Dec 25: pm only).
of Goliath (c.1650). Children Although none of the earliest Closed Yom Kippur. &
can experience life in a 17th- dwellings survives, the rows of ∑ annefrank.org
century orphanage in the beautiful houses that overlook
“Little Orphanage” the Begijnhof’s well-kept green For two years during World
exhibition. include Amsterdam’s oldest War II, the Frank and Van Pels
surviving house, Het Houten families, both Jewish, hid here
Huis, at No. 34. Dating from the until their betrayal to the Nazis.
second half of the 15th century, The 13-year-old Anne began
it is one of only two wooden- her famous diary in July 1942.
fronted houses in the city, since First published in 1947 as Het
timber buildings were banned Achterhuis (The Annex), and
in 1521 after a series of catastro- since translated into dozens
phic fires. On a wall directly of languages, the journal gives
behind No. 34 is a collection of a moving account of growing
fascinating stone plaques, up under persecution, and of
illustrating biblical themes. life in confinement. Anne
The southern side of the made her last entry in August
square is dominated by the 1944, three days before her
Engelse Kerk (English family was arrested.
Church), which dates Visitors climb to the
from the 15th second floor where
century and retains an introductory
its original video is shown. You
medieval tower. then enter the
The church was annex where the
confiscated after families hid via the
the Alteration and revolving bookcase
rented to a group of that concealed its
Statue of Goliath (c.1650) in the English and Scottish entrance. The rooms
Amsterdam Museum Presbyterians in are now empty,
Family photograph of
9 Begijnhof 1607. Directly Anne Frank (1929–45) except for the
posters in Anne’s
opposite is the
Spui (entrance at Gedempte Begijnhof Chapel room and Otto
Begijnensloot). v 1, 2, 5, 9, (Nos. 29–30), a well-preserved Frank’s model of the annex as
14, 16, 24. Open daily. hidden church, where the it was during the occupation.
∑ begijnhofamsterdam.nl Begijntjes worshipped in secret The house also has exhibitions
until religious tolerance was on World War II and anti-
The Begijnhof was built in 1346 restored in 1795. Tour groups Semitism. Try to arrive early
as a sanctuary for the Begijntjes, are not permitted in the or late in the day as the
a lay Catholic sisterhood who Begijnhof and the occupants museum gets very crowded.
lived like nuns, although they request that noise should be Buy tickets via the Internet
took no monastic vows. In return kept to a minimum. to avoid the queues.
















Attractive gabled houses and central green of Amsterdam’s Begijnhof, which is still occupied by single women




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246  FR ANCE AND THE L OW C OUNTRIES


leads to its courtyard merchants, and politicians who
is decorated with began building houses here in
splendid blue and the 1660s. Most of the opulent
white tiles. mansions have been turned
The 85-m (272-ft) into offices or banks, but their
high tower of the elegance gives an insight into the
Westerkerk soars lifestyle of the earliest residents.
above Jordaan’s Two of the finest and best-
streets, and gives preserved buildings are No. 412,
panoramic views of designed by Philips Vingboons in
the city. Begun in 1664, and No. 475, with its two
1620, the church sculpted female figures over the
has the largest front door. Built in 1730, the
nave of any Dutch latter is an example of the
Protestant church. Louis XIV style, which became
Historically a poor popular in the 18th century. The
area, the Jordaan Kattenkabinet (Cat Museum), at
now has a trendy and No. 497, is one of the few houses
bohemian air, with on the Golden Bend accessible
quirky stores selling to the public. It is worth a visit
anything from for its unusual collection of
designer clothes to feline artifacts. Also on view here
old sinks, art galleries, are some splendid paintings by
and lively brown Jacob de Wit (1695–1754) and
cafés and bars spilling an attractive formal garden.
The Westerkerk, designed by Hendrick de Keyser, onto the sidewalks A multimedia exhibition at
overlooking the Prinsengracht in Jordaan during the summer. Het Grachtenhuis, a mansion
q Jordaan w Golden Bend on Herengracht, illustrates
Hendrick Staets’ plans for the
v 13, 14, 17. Grachtengordel (see below).
v 1, 2, 5, 16, 24. Kattenkabinet:
The Jordaan grew up at the Tel 020-626 9040. Open 10am–5pm
same time that Amsterdam’s Mon–Fri; pm Sat & Sun. Closed public
Grachtengordel (Canal Ring) was hols. Het Grachten huis:
∑ hetgrachtenhuis.nl
being developed in the first half
of the 17th century. The marshy The most impressive canalside
area to the west of the more architecture in the city can be
fashionable canals was set aside seen along the section of the
as an area for workers whose Herengracht between Leidestraat
industries were banned from and Vijzelstraat. This stretch of
the town center. Its network of canal is known as the Golden
narrow streets and waterways Bend because of the great Ornate capital from the facade of
followed the course of old wealth of the shipbuilders, a building on the Golden Bend
paths and drainage ditches.
Immigrants fleeing religious
persecution also settled here. It is The Grachtengordel
thought that Huguenot refugees Faced with a rapidly growing population at the beginning of
called the district jardin (garden), the 17th century, Amsterdam’s town planner, Hendrick Staets,
later corrupted to “Jordaan.” formed an ambitious project
Flowing through the heart of to quadruple the size of the
the district are the tranquil tree- city. In 1614, work began on
lined canals known as the cutting three new residential
Egelantiersgracht and the canals, collectively known as
Bloemgracht. The canalside the Grachtengordel (Canal
residences of the Egelantiers- Ring), to encircle the existing
gracht were originally settled by city. Built for the wealthiest
citizens, the grand houses
artisans, while the Bloemgracht along the Keizersgracht
was a center for dye and paint (Emperor’s Canal), Herengracht
manufacture. One of the most (Gentleman’s Canal), and
charming spots along the Prinsengracht (Prince’s Canal)
Egelantiersgracht is St. represent Amsterdam’s finest
Andrieshofje, at Nos. 107–114. archi tecture, and are a testimony
This hofje (almshouse) was built to the city’s Golden Age.
in 1617 and the passage that
For hotels and restaurants see p260 and p261


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A MSTERD A M  247

r Het Scheep-
vaartmuseum
Kattenburgerplein 1. Tel 020-523
2222. @ 22. 4 Oosterdok,
Kattenburgergracht. Open daily.
Closed Jan 1, Apr 27, Dec 25. & 7
∑ hetscheepvaartmuseum.nl
Once the arsenal of the Dutch
Navy, this vast Classical
sandstone edifice was built in
1656. It is supported by 2,300
piles driven into the bed of the
Oosterdok. The Navy stayed
here until 1973, when the
building was conv erted into the
National Maritime Museum, Seals basking in a pool at the Artis zoo
Seeing the world through a soap bubble holding the largest collection complex in Plantage
at Nemo of boats in the world.
One of the museum’s finest of green parkland beyond the
e Nemo exhibits is a 17-m (54-ft) long city wall, where 17th-century
gilded barge, made in 1818 for Amsterdammers spent their
Oosterdok 2. Tel 020-531 3233.
@ 22. Open 10am–5:30pm Tue–Sun King William I. Another major leisure time. Though much of
(daily May–Aug). Closed Jan 1, Apr 27, attraction is a full-size model the greenery has gone, there is
Dec 25. & 7 ∑ e-nemo.nl of a Dutch East Indiaman, the still a lot to see and do here.
Amsterdam. During the 16th The area is dominated by
In June 1997, Holland’s national century, the Dutch East India Artis, a zoo complex
science center moved to this Company used such vessels to founded in 1838, which has
curved building that protrudes sail to China, Japan, and Indon- more than 5,000 animal
30 m (99 ft) over the water. esia. The museum has a court species, a planetarium, and
Divided into five themed zones with a magnificent glass ceiling. an excellent aquarium.
(Interactivity, Technology, Nearby, the Hortus
Energy, Science, and Humanity), Botanicus Amsterdam has
which are updated every three t Plantage humble roots as it began as
years, the center presents v 9, 14. Artis: Plantage Kerklaan a small apothecaries’ herb
techno logical innovations in 38–40. Tel 0900-278 4796. Open daily. garden in 1682 and now
a way that allows visitors’ & 8 7 Hortus Botanicus contains one of the world’s
creativity full expression. You Amsterdam: Plantage Middenlaan 2. largest botanical collections.
can interact with virtual reality, Tel 020-625 9021. Open daily. Plantage has a strong Jewish
operate the latest industrial Closed Jan 1, Dec 25. & 8 7 tradition, and many monuments
equipment under expert Hollandsche Schouwburg: Plantage commemorate Jewish history in
supervision, harness science Middenlaan 24. Tel 020-531 0310. Amsterdam. The Hollandsche
to produce a work of art, Open daily. Closed Rosh Hashanah Schouwburg is a somber
participate in countless games, (Jewish New Year), Yom Kippur. 7 memorial to the 104,000 Dutch
experiments, demonstrations, Jewish victims of World War II.
and workshops, and take in a The name Plantage dates from
variety of lectures and films. the time when it was an area y Hermitage
Amsterdam
Amstel 51. Tel 020-530 8755. v 4, 9,
14. Open daily. Closed Apr 27, Dec 25.
& 8 7 0 - ∑ hermitage.nl
This branch of the State
Hermitage Museum in St.
Petersburg is housed in the
vast Amstelhof, a former old-
people’s home. Opened in
2004, this satellite museum
displays temporary exhibitions
drawn from the rich St.
Petersburg collections.
The venue is now one of
The Dutch East Indiaman Amsterdam, moored in front of the Scheepvaartmuseum Amsterdam’s major museums.




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248  FR ANCE AND THE L OW C OUNTRIES


u Rijksmuseum

The Rijksmuseum is a familiar Amsterdam landmark. It Third floor
possesses an unrivaled collection of about 1 million artworks,
8,000 of which are on display, arranged chronologically in
80 galleries. The museum opened in 1885 to criticism from
Amsterdam’s Protestant community for its Catholic Neo-
Renaissance style. The main building, designed by P.J.H.
Cuypers, underwent
extensive renovation
for ten years and
reopened in 2013.
Winter Landscape with
Skaters (1618)
Mute painter Hendrick
Avercamp specialized in
intricate icy winter scenes.


. The Kitchen Maid
(1658)
The light falling through
the window and the Second floor
stillness of this domestic
scene are typical of Jan
Vermeer’s style. First floor

The Neo-Renaissance
facade of Cuypers’
building is red brick
with elaborate
decoration, including
colored tiles.

Gallery Guide
The entrance to the main building is
through the Atrium. The collection
explores 800 years of Dutch history
through paintings, sculpture, applied
arts, and historical objects. Artworks
are shown side by side, underlining
contrasts and connections. A
pavilion between the main building
and the Philips Wing houses the
Asiatic collection. The Philips Wing
has a café and restaurant on the
ground level, and a floor devoted
to temporary exhibitions.
Key to Floorplan
1100–1600
1600–1700
1700–1800
1800–1900 . St. Elizabeth’s Day Flood (1500)
1900–2000 An unknown artist painted this altar­
piece, which shows a disastrous flood in
Asian Pavillion
1421. The dykes protecting Dordrecht
Special Collections were breached, and 22 villages were
Non­exhibition space swept away by the flood water.
For hotels and restaurants see p260 and p261


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