(DK Eyewitness) Travel Guide - Europe

GREECE  449


Sofia Kastaniés
BULGARI A Orestiáda
Skopje Istanbul
REPUBLIC OF Sidirókastro Néstos 51
MACEDONIA Souflí
Dráma 14 Komotiní
Tirana Strimónas 25 Sérres Néa 12 Xánthi
Kilkís 25 Zíchni 2 2 Istanbul
Flórina 2 Edessa Ancient 1 Gallikós Angítis Kavála Keramotí
Amfípoli
Préspa 2 Pélla
2 Alexandroúpoli
2
4 Thessaloníki 2 Thásos T h r a c i an Sea
15
Ptolemaïda
Kastoriá Véroia 16 16
Aliákmonas 25 Ouranoúpoli Samothráki
3
20 Kozáni Kateríni
ALBANI A 13 Néa Moudaniá Mount Imvros
Athos
3
Kónitsa Grevená
2 1
Mount
Sarandë Olympos Límnos
15 26
´
Corfu and Thyamis 6 Metéora Tyrnavos Ténedos
´
the Ionian Corfu
Islands Town 6 Ioánnina 6 Tríkala 6 Lárisa
6
Igoumenítsa Pineiós
Corfu 1 Agios
Italy 5 Arachthos Kardítsa 3 Vólos Efstrátios
34 Pílio Gioúra
Párga Achelóos 30 Skiáthos TURKEY
Fársala Alónnisos Kyrá Panagiá Lésvos
Paxos 18 Arta
1 Peristerá
G R E E C E Plataniá
5 Skópelos
Préveza Karpenisi Glyfa
´
38 Lamía Loutrá 77 Skyros Aegean
Lefkáda 42 Spercheiós Aidipsoú
Town 5 38 3 Sea
Lefkáda 1 77
´
Meganísi Astakós Agrínio 27 Ancient Kymi
Delphi Oinoússes
Kástro Psará
5 Chalkída
Kefalloniá Ithaca Mesolóngi 48 Galaxídi 48 44 Chíos
3
Sámi Gulf of Corinth Monastery 1
Argostóli Pátra of Osios Monastery Marathónas
Loukás of Dafní
Kyllíni 9 Kalávryta 8A ATHENS Marmari Kárystos
33 Ancient Piraeus Andros
Amaliáda Corinth
Zákynthos 74 Sámos
Town Pyrgos Mycenae Agkístri
´
Zákynthos Dimitsána Loúsios 7 Epidaurus Aígina Makrónisos
74
Ancient Méthana Kéa
Olympía Gorge Póros Soúnio Gyáros Tínos
Trípoli Náfplio ´ Islands South of the Mainland
9
´
Ionian Megalópoli Kranídi Kythnos Syros ATHENS Chios TURKEY
Néda 39 Andros
Sea Spétses Ydra Kéa Tínos Ikaría Sámos
7
Sérifos Páros
Evrótis
´
´
Kalamáta Mystrás Kythnos Syros Mykonos Pátmos
9 Antíparos Delos
82 Sérifos Páros Náxos
Pylos 39 Sífnos Sífnos Kálymnos
´
Mílos Kímolos The Cyclades Amorgós Kos
´
Gytheio Polyaigos Síkinos Rhodes
´
Schíza Mílos Ios Astypálaia Town
Monemvasía Folegándros Santorini Rhodes and
Geroliménas Neápoli Anáfi the Dodecanese Lindos
Máni Elafónisos MEDITERRANEAN Rhodes
Peninsula SEA
Kárpathos
´
Kythira Chaniá
Irákleio Kásos 0 km 50
Crete 0 miles 50
Agios
Nikólaos
For keys to symbols see back flap
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450  IT AL Y AND GREECE


AFTOKRATOROS
IRAKLEIOU
1 Athens DELIGIANNNI
Z A I M I NOTARA TRIKOUPI
Athens has been inhabited for 7,000 years. The city’s
greatest glory was during the Classical period (4th and P A T I S I O N E XARCHEIA T O S I T S A TSA MA DOU O I K O N O M O U
5th centuries BC) of ancient Greece, from which so many N O T A R A
buildings and artifacts survive. The city is dominated by S T O U R N A R A SPYRIDONOS
the world-famous Acropolis and its theaters and temples, K A N I N G O S S O L O M O U PLATEIA
including the Parthenon, erected by Perikles as part of his K A P O D I S T R I O U M P O TA S I Z A I M I EXARCHEION
grand building plan in the mid-5th century BC. Within the
PLATEIA PATOUSA
Byzantine Empire and under Ottoman rule, Athens played KANINGOS G E O R G E VALTETSIOU
only a minor role. It returned to prominence in 1834, when V E R A N Z E R O U T H E M I S T O K L E O U S M P E N A K I ANDREA METAXA
KLEISOVIS
King Otto made it capital of Greece. When the king’s GRAVIAS KOLETTI T Z AV E L L A A
SOLONOS
architects planned the new, European-style city, they P A T I S I O N GLADSTO NOS E M M A N O U I L LONTOU D O C H O U P I G I S
included many splendid Neoclassical public buildings, PLATEIA NIKITARA ZALONGOU N A T R I K O U P I R A C H O V I S
OMONOIAS GAMVETTA Z O O D I D O T O U
VALTETSIOU
which today provide elegant homes for some of Omónoia A K A D I M I A S
K I A F A S
P E I R A I O S K L E I S T H E N O U S LYKOURGOU O U P A N E P I S T I M I O U M A V R O M I C H A L I A S K L I P I O U DELFON P R A S S A MERLIE OKTAVIOU
Athens’ best museums and galleries. OMONOIA C H A R I L A O U V A R I N O U
I P P O K R A T O U S
F E I D I O U
M E N A N D R O U ANAXAGORA Town A T H I N A S K R AT I N O U A I O L G STAVROU SANTAROZA National SOLONOS PEFKAKIA LYKAVITTOU CHERSONOS
G E R A N I O U
E V P O L I D O S
STATHA
A R S A K I
Theatrical
PLATEIA
S I N A
Hall
Museum
KOTZIA
Library
M A S S A L I A S
SOFOKLEOUS
PLATEIA
GIAINNI
P E I R A I O S KOLOKYNTHOUS KORINNIS THEATROU SOKRATOUS A R M O D I O U SOFOKLEOUS PESMANTZOGLOU NIKOLOUDI University of S I N A MANTZAROU O U F A D I D O T O U
S T A D I O U
PLATEIA
S K
S A P F O U S
STOA
THEATROU
PLATEIA ELEFTHERIAS
(PL KOUMOUNDOUROU) DIPYL OU E P I K O U R O U E V R I P I D O U ARISTOGEITONOS Central KORAI Athens Athens O M I R O U STRATIOTIKOU SYNDESMOU
Market
Academy
PSAROMILIGKOU SACHTOURI S A R R I A I S C H Y LO U E V R I P I D O U THEODOROI ARISTEIDOU DRAGATSANIOU Panepistímio S I N A L Y K A V I T T O U F O K Y L I D O U S O U I D I A S
AGIOI
DIPYL OU K R I E Z I A R I S T O F A N O U S AGIOU DIMITRIOU KALAMIDA P O LY KL E I T O U A I O L O U AGI OU P R A X I T E KLAFTHMONOS City of A K A D I M I A S D I M O K R I T O U A N A G N O S T O P O U L O U DEXAMENIS XANTHIPPOU I O A N N O U
V O U KOUR E S T IO U
PLATEIA
A G I O N
PLATEIA
LEPENIOTOU NIKA LOUKA
A M E R I K I S
P I N D A R O U
S A R R I LOUKA LEPENIO- AGION ANARGYRON PROTOGEN OUS A T H I N A S V Y S S I S MILTIADOU RKO U LEOCHAROUS L O U S PAPARRIGOPOULOU Athens Museum P A N E P I S T I M I O U Schliemann's A L E X S O U T S O U ROMA XANTHOU SPEFSIPPOU PATRIA
PAL LA D O S
CHRISTOU LADA
CHARITOS
MA
T A K I
T S A K A L O F
S O L O N O S
LEOKORIOU
TOU
APOSTOLI
PARN ASSOU
K A R A I S K A K I
VOUKOURESTIOU
VOR
NIKIOU
A S O M AT O N
National
L E O K O R I O U NA VARCHOU
STA D IOU
AVLITON AISOPOU PSYRRI AVRAMIO- EOU A I O L O U K O L O K O T R O N I Historical House I R A K L E I T O U S K O U F A LEVENTI IOAKEIM LO U K I A N O U P L O U M A R A S L I G E N N A D I O U
K AR OR I
TOU
K A R N E A D O U
STOA
MILIONI
E R M O U ARIONOS PITTAKI THEMIDOS AGIA S EIRINIS KALAMIOTOU EV ANGELISTRIAS R O M V I S T H I S E O S L E K K A Museum SPYROMILIOU KRIEZOTOU K A N A R I PLATEIA FILIKIS ETAIRIAS I R O D KOL ONAKI
MIAOULI
(PL KOLONAKIOU)
AGIOS THEKLAS
A L O P E K I S TA R C H O U
PLATEIA Monastiráki ATHINAIDOS V O U L I S Z A LO K OS TA Y P S I L A N T O U
Thiseío THISEIOU A S T I N G O AVISSYNIAS E R M O U P E R I K L E O U S M E R L I N S E K E R I K A P S A L I O T O U
PLATEIA Kapnikaréa GEO RGI OU KOUMPARI NEOFYTOU Evangelismós
KAPNIKAREAS
MONASTIRAKIOU SYNT AGM A E L E F T H E R I O U VAMVA NEOFYTOU DOUKA
I F A I S T O U
Kyriazopoulos Folk MONASTIRAKI F O K I O N O S S O F I A S )
A D R I A N O U
Ceramic Museum MITROPOLEOS E R M O U Syntagma V E N I Z E L O U War
Hephaisteion A R E O S A I O L O U P A N D R O S O U P E T R A K I SYNTAGMATOS Tomb of ( V Museum
the
PLATEIA
Stoa of ADRIANOU Mitrópoli Unknown M O U R O U Z I R I Z A R I K O N S T A N T I N O U
Byzantine and
Attalos KLADOU DEXIPPOU Panagía PENTELIS O T H O N O S Soldier Christian Museum
P A N O S AERIDES MPENIZELOU Gorgoepíkoös IPITOU V O U L I S N I K I S X E N O F O N T O S AMALIAS AT T I K O U S T I S I C H O R O U LYKEIOU
A P O L L O N O S
POIKILIS
Syntagma
Tower of
DIOSKOURON PANOS THRYASYV OULOU M N I S I K L E O U S E R E C H T H E O S ADRIANOU FILOTHEIS NAVARCHOU NIKODIMOU S K O U F O U F I L E L L I N O N VASIL ISSIS N ATIONAL Royal Palace R I G I L L I S
the Winds
AGIAS
A. CHATZIMICHALI
THRASYVOULOU
Kanellopoúlos A R E T O U S A S P R Y TA N E I O U FLESSA VOGLI KEKROPOS K O D R O U N I K I S SOURIG GARDENS LEOFOROS VAS GEORGIOU B V A S I L E O S
Museum Agios Nikólaos S O T I R O S Greek LEOF Presidential PLATEIA
Palace
THEORIAS ANAFIOTIKA Ragavás Museum MELEAGROU MIMNERMOU PLATEIA
Folk Art
TROUMAN
Propylaia Parthenon S T R AT O N O S RAGKAVA TRIPODON A D R I A N O U K Y D AT H I N A I O N Jewish I R O D O U I S I O D O U SKOUZE
Museum
DAIDALOU
PLAKA
Temple of T H E S P I D O S FARMAKI
GERONTA
Athena Nike Zappeion
Monument of THOLOU P I T TA K O U
PLATEIA
Theater of Lysikrates LYSIKRATOUS SKOURA L E O F O R O S
Herodes Atticus LYSIKRATOUS
A P OS TOLOU PAVL O U
VAKCHOU Hadrian's LEOF
Theater of TH R AS YL LOU FR YNICHOU
D I O N Y S I O U
Dionysos VYRONOS Arch VASILISSIS
A R E O P A G I T O U
Acropolis Museum PLATEIA
220 yards (200m) Akropoli OLGAS STADIOU
Zappio
Marble figurine from the
Museum of Cycladic Art A
A R D I T T O U
D I A K O U
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A THENS  451


AFTOKRATOROS
IRAKLEIOU DELIGIANNNI
Z A I M I NOTARA TRIKOUPI Sights at a Glance
1 National Archaeological
P A T I S I O N E XARCHEIA T O S I T S A TSA MA DOU O I K O N O M O U 2 Monastiráki
Museum
N O T A R A SPYRIDONOS 3 Ancient Agora
4 Acropolis pp454–6
K A N I N G O S S O L O M O U M P O TA S I Z A I M I EXARCHEION 5 Plaka
S T O U R N A R A
PLATEIA
6 Temple of Olympian Zeus
K A P O D I S T R I O U
G E O R G E PATOUSA
8 Museum of Cycladic Art
PLATEIA 7 Benáki Museum
KANINGOS T H E M I S T O K L E O U S M P E N A K I ANDREA METAXA VALTETSIOU 9 Byzantine and Christian
Museum
V E R A N Z E R O U
KLEISOVIS
P A T I S I O N GLADSTO NOS GRAVIAS SOLONOS LONTOU D O C H O U P I G I S A The 1st-century BC Tower of the Winds
E M M A N O U I L
KOLETTI
T Z AV E L L A
in Monastiráki, central Athens
PLATEIA NIKITARA ZALONGOU N A T R I K O U P I R A C H O V I S
OMONOIAS GAMVETTA A K A D I M I A S Z O O D I D O T O U
VALTETSIOU
Omónoia Getting Around
K I A F A S
P E I R A I O S K L E I S T H E N O U S OMONOIA P A N E P I S T I M I O U M A V R O M I C H A L I A S K L I P I O U DELFON P R A S S A MERLIE OKTAVIOU The sights of Athens’ city center are closely
I P P O K R A T O U S
C H A R I L A O U V A R I N O U
F E I D I O U
packed, and often the best way of getting
LYKOURGOU O U
M E N A N D R O U ANAXAGORA Town A T H I N A S K R AT I N O U A I O L G STAVROU SANTAROZA National SOLONOS PEFKAKIA PLATEIA CHERSONOS around is on foot, especially with the appalling
G E R A N I O U
traffic. There are about 20 bus and trolley bus
STATHA
E V P O L I D O S
A R S A K I
Theatrical
PLATEIA
S I N A
Hall
Museum
KOTZIA
routes that crisscross the city. The metro system
SOFOKLEOUS
M A S S A L I A S
Library
GIAINNI
LYKAVITTOU
is most useful for crossing the city, getting to
S T A D I O U
P E I R A I O S KOLOKYNTHOUS KORINNIS THEATROU SOKRATOUS A R M O D I O U SOFOKLEOUS PESMANTZOGLOU NIKOLOUDI University of S I N A MANTZAROU O U F A D I D O T O U the port of Piraeus and to the airport.
PLATEIA
STOA
S K
S A P F O U S
THEATROU
PLATEIA ELEFTHERIAS
(PL KOUMOUNDOUROU) DIPYL OU E P I K O U R O U ARISTOGEITONOS Central KORAI Athens Athens O M I R O U STRATIOTIKOU SYNDESMOU
Market
Academy
E V R I P I D O U
PSAROMILIGKOU SACHTOURI S A R R I A I S C H Y LO U E V R I P I D O U THEODOROI ARISTEIDOU DRAGATSANIOU Panepistímio S I N A L Y K A V I T T O U F O K Y L I D O U S O U I D I A S
AGIOI
V O U KOUR E S T IO U
DIPYL OU K R I E Z I A R I S T O F A N O U S AGIOU DIMITRIOU P O LY KL E I T O U A I O L O U AGI OU P R A X I T E KLAFTHMONOS City of A K A D I M I A S D I M O K R I T O U A N A G N O S T O P O U L O U DEXAMENIS XANTHIPPOU I O A N N O U
PLATEIA
A G I O N
PLATEIA
KALAMIDA
LEPENIOTOU NIKA LOUKA
A M E R I K I S
S A R R I LOUKA LEPENIO- AGION ANARGYRON PROTOGEN OUS A T H I N A S V Y S S I S MILTIADOU RKO U LEOCHAROUS L O U S PAPARRIGOPOULOU Athens Museum P A N E P I S T I M I O U Schliemann's A L E X S O U T S O U ROMA XANTHOU SPEFSIPPOU PATRIARCHOU A L O P E K I S
P I N D A R O U
PAL LA D O S
CHRISTOU LADA
CHARITOS
MA
T A K I
T S A K A L O F
S O L O N O S
LEOKORIOU
TOU
APOSTOLI
PARN ASSOU
K A R A I S K A K I
VOUKOURESTIOU
VOR
A S O M AT O N
NIKIOU
L E O K O R I O U NA VARCHOU
National
STAD IOU
AVLITON AISOPOU PSYRRI AVRAMIO- EOU A I O L O U K O L O K O T R O N I Historical House I R A K L E I T O U S K O U F A LEVENTI IOAKEIM LO U K I A N O U P L O U M A R A S L I G E N N A D I O U
K AR OR I
TOU
K A R N E A D O U
STOA
MILIONI
E R M O U ARIONOS PITTAKI THEMIDOS AGIA S EIRINIS KALAMIOTOU EV ANGELISTRIAS R O M V I S T H I S E O S L E K K A Museum SPYROMILIOU KRIEZOTOU K A N A R I PLATEIA FILIKIS ETAIRIAS I R O D KOL ONAKI
MIAOULI
(PL KOLONAKIOU)
AGIOS THEKLAS
A L O P E K I S TA R C H O U
PLATEIA Monastiráki ATHINAIDOS V O U L I S Z A LO K OS TA Y P S I L A N T O U
Thiseío THISEIOU A S T I N G O AVISSYNIAS E R M O U P E R I K L E O U S M E R L I N S E K E R I K A P S A L I O T O U
PLATEIA Kapnikaréa GEOR GIOU KOUMPARI NEOFYTOU Evangelismós
KAPNIKAREAS
MONASTIRAKIOU SYNT AGM A E L E F T H E R I O U VAMVA NEOFYTOU DOUKA
I F A I S T O U
Kyriazopoulos Folk MONASTIRAK I F O K I O N O S S O F I A S )
A D R I A N O U
Ceramic Museum MITROPOLEOS E R M O U Syntagma V E N I Z E L O U War
PLATEIA
the
Hephaisteion A R E O S A I O L O U P A N D R O S O U P E T R A K I SYNTAGMATOS Tomb of ( V Museum
Stoa of ADRIANOU Mitrópoli Unknown M O U R O U Z I R I Z A R I K O N S T A N T I N O U
Attalos KLADOU DEXIPPOU Panagía PENTELIS O T H O N O S Soldier Christian Museum
Byzantine and
P A N O S AERIDES MPENIZELOU Gorgoepíkoös IPITOU V O U L I S N I K I S X E N O F O N T O S AMALIAS AT T I K O U S T I S I C H O R O U LYKEIOU
A P O L L O N O S
POIKILIS
Syntagma
Tower of
DIOSKOURON PANOS THRYASYV OULOU M N I S I K L E O U S E R E C H T H E O S ADRIANOU FILOTHEIS NAVARCHOU NIKODIMOU S K O U F O U F I L E L L I N O N VASIL ISSIS N ATIONAL Royal Palace R I G I L L I S
the Winds
AGIAS
A. CHATZIMICHALI
Kanellopoúlos A R E T O U S A S P R Y TA N E I O U FLESSA VOGLI KEKROPOS K O D R O U N I K I S SOURIG GARDENS LEOFOROS VAS GEORGIOU B V A S I L E O S
THRASYVOULOU
Museum Agios Nikólaos S O T I R O S Greek LEOF Presidential PLATEIA
Palace
THEORIAS ANAFIOTIKA Ragavás Museum MELEAGROU MIMNERMOU PLATEIA
Folk Art
TROUMAN
Propylaia Parthenon S T R AT O N O S RAGKAVA TRIPODON A D R I A N O U K Y D AT H I N A I O N Jewish I R O D O U I S I O D O U SKOUZE
Museum
DAIDALOU
PLAKA
Temple of T H E S P I D O S FARMAKI
GERONTA
Athena Nike Zappeion
Monument of THOLOU P I T TA K O U
PLATEIA
Theater of Lysikrates LYSIKRATOUS SKOURA L E O F O R O S
Herodes Atticus LYSIKRATOUS Key
A P OS TOLOU PAVL O U
VAKCHOU Hadrian's LEOF Sight / Place of interest
Theater of TH R AS YL LOU FR YNICHOU
D I O N Y S I O U
Dionysos VYRONOS Arch VASILISSIS Pedestrian street
Acropolis Museum PLATEIA
A R E O P A G I T O U
220 yards (200m) Akropoli OLGAS STADIOU City walls
Zappio
0 meters 300
A 0 yards 300
A R D I T T O U
D I A K O U
For keys to symbols see back flap
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452  IT AL Y AND GREECE

2 Monastiráki
q Monastiráki. Market: Open daily.
This lively and atmospheric
area, which is named after
the little monastery in Plateía
Monastirakíou, is synonymous
with Athens’ famous flea
market. Located next to the
ancient Agora, it is bounded
by Sarrí in the west and Aiólou
in the east. The streets of
Pandrósou, Ifaístou, and Areos
leading off Plateía Monastirakíou
Neoclassical entrance to the National Archaeological Museum are full of shops, selling a range
of goods from expensive
1 National worth seeing. These include antiques, leather, and silver
Archaeological the stunning Eléni Stathátou to tourist trinkets.
Museum jewelry collection and the The heart of the flea market
Egyptian rooms.
is in Plateía Avyssinías, west of
Patissíon 44. Tel 213-214 4800. High points of the museum Plateía Monastirakíou, where on
q Omónoia. Open Apr–Oct: include the unique finds from weekend mornings junk dealers
8am–8pm daily; Nov–Mar: 1–8pm the grave circle at Mycenae (see arrive with pieces of furniture
Mon, 9am–4pm Tue–Sun. & 8 7 p467), in particular the gold and various odds and ends.
∑ namuseum.gr Mask of Agamemnon. Also not During the week, the shops and
to be missed are the Archaic stalls are filled with antiques,
When it was opened in 1891, kouroi statues and the unrivaled second-hand books, rugs,
this museum brought together collection of Classical and leatherware, taverna chairs,
antiquities that had previously Hellenistic statues. Two of the army surplus gear, and tools.
been stored in different places most important and finest of On Sunday mornings, when
all over the city. New wings the bronzes are the Horse with some shops are closed, the
were added in 1939, but the Little Jockey and Poseidon. market itself still flourishes
during World War II, the One of the world’s largest along Adrianoú and in Plateía
museum’s priceless exhibits collections of ancient ceramics Agíou Filíppou. There are
were dispersed and buried can also be found here, always numerous bargains
underground to protect them comprising a vast array of to be had. Items particularly
from possible damage. The elegant red- and black-figure worth investing in include
museum reopened in 1946, vases from the 6th and 5th used CDs and vinyl,
but it has taken another 60 or centuries BC and some backgammon sets, copper
so years of renovation and Geometric funerary vases that items, and an abundance of
reorganization to finally do date back as far as 1000 BC. good silver jewelry.
justice to its formidable
collection. With the
combination of such unique
exhibits as the Mycenaean
gold, and an unrivaled
assembly of sculpture, pottery,
and jewelry, it can definitely be
claimed as one of the finest
museums in the world. It is a
good idea to plan ahead and
be selective when visiting the
museum and not attempt to
cover everything in one visit.
The museum’s exhibits can
be divided into seven main
collections: Neolithic and
Cycladic, Mycenaean, Geometric
and Archaic sculpture, Classical
sculpture, Roman and
Hellenistic sculpture, the pottery
collections, and the Thíra
frescoes. There are also other
smaller collections that are well Shoppers browsing in Athens’s lively Monastiráki market
For hotels and restaurants see pp484–6 and pp487–9


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A THENS  453



















View across the Agora, with the Theseion temple on the left
3 Ancient Agora ruins on the site are the Odeion tourists and Athenians, who
of Agrippa, a covered theater, come to eat in old-fashioned
Main entrance at Adrianoú, and the Hephaisteion, a temple tavernas or browse in the
Monastiráki. Tel 210-321 0185.
q Thiseío, Monastiráki. Museum to Hephaistos, also known as antique and icon shops, Pláka
and site: Open 8am–7pm daily the Theseion. still retains the atmosphere of a
(winter: to 3pm). Closed main public trad i tional neighborhood. The
hols. & 7 limited. 4 Acropolis Lysikrates Monument in Plateía
Lysikrátous is one of a number
The American School of See pp454–6. of monuments that were built
Archaeology commenced to commemorate the victors at
excavations of the Ancient 5 Plaka the annual choral and dramatic
Agora in the 1930s, and since festival at the Theater of
then a complex array of public q Monastiráki, Acropolis. v 1, 2, 4, Dionysos. Taking its name from
buildings and temples has been 5, and many others. a 4th-century BC sponsor of the
revealed. From about 3000 BC, winning team, it is the only such
the Agora was the political and The area of Plaka is the historic monument still intact in Athens.
religious heart of ancient heart of Athens. Even though Many churches are worth a
Athens. Also the center of only a few buildings date back visit: the 11th-century Agios
commercial and daily life, it to before the Ottoman period, it Nikólaos Ragavás has ancient
abounded with schools and remains the oldest continually columns built into the walls.
elegant stoas, or roofed inhabited area in the city. One The Tower of the Winds, in
arcades, filled with shops. The probable explanation of its the far west of Pláka, lies in the
state prison was here, as was name comes from the word grounds of the Roman Agora. It
the city’s mint. Even the used by Albanian soldiers in the was built by a Syrian astronomer
remains of an olive oil mill have service of the Ottomans who in the 2nd century BC as a
been found. settled here in the 16th century weather vane and water clock.
The main building standing – pliaka (old) was how they The name comes from external
today is the impressive two- used to describe the area. friezes depicting the eight
story Stoa of Attalos. This was Despite the constant swarm of mythological winds.
rebuilt in the 1950s on the
original foundations and using
ancient building materials.
Founded by King Attalos of
Pergamon (ruled 159–138 BC),
it dominated the eastern
quarter of the Agora until it
was destroyed in AD 267. It
is used today as a museum,
exhibiting the finds from the
Agora. These include a klepsydra
(a water clock that was used
for timing plaintiffs’ speeches),
bronze ballots, and items from
everyday life such as some
terra-cotta toys and leather
sandals. The best-preserved The Byzantine church of Agios Nikólaos Ragavás in Plaka




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4 Acropolis Plateía Omonoías
ACROPOLIS
In the mid-5th century BC, Perikles persuaded the AREIOS
PAGOS
Athenians to begin a grand program of new building
PNYX
work. The resulting transformation has come to Plateía
embody the political and cultural achievements of HILL OF Syntágmatos
THE
ancient Greece. Three contrasting temples were built NYMPHS FILOPAPPOS
on the Acropolis, together with a monumental HILL
gateway. The Theater of Dionysos and the Theater
of Herodes Atticus were added later, in the 4th
century BC and the 2nd century AD respectively. Locator Map
. Porch of the Caryatids
These statues of women
were used in place of
columns on the south
porch of the Erechtheion.
The originals, four of
which can be seen in the
Acropolis Museum, have
been replaced by casts.



















. Temple of Athena Nike
This temple to Athena of Victory is
on the west side of the Propylaia.
It was built in 426–421 BC.
KEY
1 Theater of Herodes Atticus, 6 Two Corinthian columns are
was originally built in AD 161. the remains of choregic monuments
Restored in 1955, it is now used erected by sponsors of successful
for outdoor concerts. dramatic performances.
2 Pathway to Acropolis from 7 Panagía Spiliótissa is a
ticket office chapel set up in a cave in the
3 The Beulé Gate was the first Acropolis rock.
entrance to the Acropolis. 8 Shrine of Asklepios
4 The Propylaia was built in 9 Stoa of Eumenes
437–432 BC to form a new entrance 0 The Acropolis rock was an
to the Acropolis. easily defended site. It has been
5 An olive tree now grows where in use for nearly 5,000 years.
Athena first planted her tree in a
competition against Poseidon.
For hotels and restaurants see pp484–6 and pp487–9



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A THENS  455



VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
. Parthenon
Although few Practical Information
sculptures are left on Dionysíou Areopagítou (main
this famous temple to entrance), Pláka. Tel 210-321
Athena, some can still 0219. Open Apr–Oct: 8am–8pm
be admired, such as daily; Nov–Mar: 8am–4:30pm
this one from the east daily. Closed Jan 1, Mar 25, Easter
pediment (see p456). Sun, May 1, Dec 25 & 26. & 8
New Acropolis Museum:
Tel 210-321 4172. Open 8am–
8pm daily (Nov–Mar: to 5pm).
Closed Jan 1, Mar 25, Easter Sun,
May 1, Dec 25 & 26. & 8
∑ acropolisofathens.gr
Transport
q Acropolis. @ 230, 231.























Theater of
Dionysos
This figure of
Silenus, Dionysos’
tutor, can be seen
here. The theater
visible today
was built by
Lykourgos in
342–326 BC.


The Elgin Marbles
These famous sculptures, also called the Parthenon
Marbles, are held in the British Museum in London.
They were acquired from the Ottoman authorities
by Lord Elgin in 1801–3. He sold them to the
British nation for £35,000 in 1816. There is great
controversy surrounding the Marbles. While some
argue that they are more carefully preserved in the
British Museum, the Greek government does not
The newly arrived Elgin Marbles at the British Museum, in a accept the legality of the sale and believes they
painting by A. Archer belong in the Acropolis Museum in Athens.






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Exploring the Acropolis figurines, and female protomes
(busts) symbolizing fertility.
Once you are through the Propylaia, the grand entrance to The Archaic Gallery show-
the site, the Parthenon exerts an overwhelming fascination. cases statues of young men,
The other fine temples on “the Rock” include the Erechtheion women, and horses, while the
and the Temple of Athena Nike. Since 1975, access to all the entire top floor is devoted to
a reconstruction of a marble
temple precincts has been banned. However, it is a miracle frieze that once ran around
that anything remains at all. The ravages of war, the removal the top of the Parthenon. The
of treasures, and pollution have all taken their irrevocable original bas-reliefs are combined
toll on the Acropolis. with crude white plaster copies
of the so-called Elgin Marbles,
removed by Lord Elgin in 1801
and now displayed in the British
Museum in London (see p455).
Around the Acropolis
The area around the Acropolis
was the center of public life in
Athens. In addition to the Agora
in the north (see p453), there were
two theaters on the southern
slope, the Theater of Herodes
Atticus and the Theater of
Dionysos. Political life was largely
centered on the Areopagos and
the Pynx Hill to the west of the
Acropolis; the Ekklesia (citizens’
The Parthenon from the southwest assembly) met on the latter,
while the former was the seat
T The Parthenon who worked on the frieze, which of the Supreme Judicial Court.
One of the world’s most famous depicted the people and horses Filopáppos Hill has always played
monuments, the Parthenon was in the Panathenaic procession. an important defensive role in
commissioned by Perikles as Despite much damage and the city’s history – a fort was built
part of his rebuilding plan. Work alterations made to adapt it to here overlooking the strategic
began in 447 BC, when the various uses, which have included Piraeus road in 294 BC. On the
sculptor Pheidias was entrusted a church, a mosque, and even Hill of the Nymphs, the
with supervising the building of an arsenal, the Parthenon 19th-century Danish-designed
a new Doric temple to Athena, remains a majestic sight today. Asteroskopeíon (Observatory)
the patron goddess of the city. occupies the site of a sanctuary
Built on the site of earlier E New Acropolis Museum dedicated to nymphs associated
temples, it was designed Dionysiou Areopagitou 15, with childbirth.
primarily to house the Parthenos, Makrygianni. Tel 210-900 0900. Open
Pheidias’s cult statue of Athena. Apr–Oct: 8am–8pm Tue–Sun (to
Taking just nine years to 10pm Fri); Nov–Mar: 9am–5pm daily
complete, the temple was (to 10pm Fri, to 8pm Sat & Sun).
dedicated to the goddess in the Closed Jan 1, Easter Sun, May 1, Dec
course of the Great Panathenaia 25 & 26. ∑ theacropolismuseum.gr
festival of 438 BC. Designed and
constructed in Pentelic marble Located a short walk from the
by the architects Kallikrates and Acropolis, this ultra-modern glass,
Iktinos, the Parthenon replaces steel, and concrete building,
straight lines with slight curves. designed by the Swiss architect
It is thought that this complex Bernard Tschumi, exhibits finds
architectural style was used to from the Acropolis site.
create an illusion of perfection The ground floor is made
(see pp458–9). of partially reinforced glass,
For the pediments and the which exposes 4th century BC
friezes that ran all the way archaeo logical excavations
around the temple, an army below the building. Cases set
of sculptors and painters was in the walls display finds from
employed. Agorakritos and early sanctuaries on the
Alkamenes, both pupils of Acropolis, including votive The Asteroskopeíon (Observatory) on the
Pheidias, are two of the sculptors offerings such as jewelry, Hill of the Nymphs
For hotels and restaurants see pp484–6 and pp487–9


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A THENS  457

6 Temple of The displays start
Olympian Zeus on the first floor,
with the Cycladic
Corner of Amalías & Vasilíssis Olgas,
Pláka. Tel 210-922 6330. v 2, 4, 11. collection. Dating
Open summer: 8am–7pm daily; back to the 3rd
winter: 8am–3pm daily. Closed main millennium BC, the
public hols. & 7 limited. Cycladic figurines
were found mostly
This vast temple is the largest in graves, although
in Greece, exceeding even the their exact usage
Parthenon in size. The tyrant remains a mystery.
Peisistratos allegedly initiated Ancient Greek art
the building of the temple in is exhibited on
the 6th century BC to gain the second floor
public favor. It was not and the Charles
completed until 650 years later. Polítis collection
In AD 132, the Roman of Classical and
Emperor Hadrian dedicated the Prehistoric art
temple to Zeus Olympios and on the fourth
set up a statue of the god floor. The
inside, a copy of the original by The remains of the Temple of Olympian Zeus third floor
Pheidias at Olympia (see p469). displays some
Next to it he placed a huge Neoclassical mansion, was excellent ancient Cypriot art.
statue of himself. Both statues adapted as a museum and Another wing in the adjoining
have since been lost. opened to the public in 1931. Stathátos Mansion is used for
Only 15 of the original 104 A major part of the Benáki worthwhile temporary exhibits,
columns remain, but enough collection consists of gold many unrelated to Cycladic art.
to give a sense of the once jewelry dating from as far
enormous size of this temple – back as 3000 BC. Also on 9 Byzantine and
approximately 96 m (315 ft) display are icons, liturgical
long and 40 m (130 ft) wide. silverware, Egyptian artifacts, Christian Museum
Roman-style Corinthian capitals and Greek embroideries. Vasilíssis Sofías 22. Tel 213-213 9500.
were added to the original q Evaggelismos. Open 8am–8pm
Doric columns in 174 BC. 8 Museum of daily in summer, may close earlier
The temple lies next to in winter. & 7
Hadrian’s Arch, built in AD 131 Cycladic Art ∑ byzantinemuseum.gr
and marking the boundary Neofýtou Doúka 4 (new wing at
between the ancient city and Irodótou 1), Kolonáki. Tel 210-722 Following a 2004 revamp, this
the Roman Athens of Hadrian. 8321. v 3, 7, 8, 13. Open 10am–5pm is now one of Athens’ must-see
Wed–Mon (to 8pm Thu, from 11am museums. It features religious
7 Benáki Museum Sun). Closed main public hols. artifacts from the Early Christian,
Byzantine, Medieval, post-
& 7 ∑ cycladic.gr
Corner of Koumpári & Vasilíssis Sofías, Byzantine, and later periods.
Kolonáki. Tel 210-367 1000. v 3, 7, 8, A magnificent selection of Treasures on display include a
13. Open 9am–5pm Wed–Sun (to ancient Greek art, including reconstructed frescoed church
midnight Thu & Sat, to 3pm Sun). the world’s most important from inland Attikí and the gold
Closed public hols. & except Thu. collection of Cycladic Hoard of Mytilene, which was
7 limited. ∑ benaki.gr figurines, is on view at abandoned during 7th-century
this modern museum. Saracen raids.
This museum contains a superb
collection of Greek art and crafts,
jewelry, regional costumes, and
political memorabilia from the
Neolithic era to the 20th century.
It was founded by Antónios
Benákis (1873–1954), who was
interested in Greek, Persian,
Egyptian, and Ottoman art from
an early age and started collect-
ing while living in Alexandria.
On moving to Athens in 1926,
he donated his collection to
the Greek state. The family
home, an elegant 19th-century Byzantine icon of St. Elijah at the Byzantine & Christian Museum




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Temple Architecture

Temples were the most important public buildings in
ancient Greece, largely because religion was a central
part of everyday life. Often placed in prominent
positions, temples were also statements about
political and divine power. The earliest temples, in
the 8th century BC, were built of wood and sun-dried The Parthenon on the Acropolis in Athens
bricks. Many of their features were copied in marble
buildings from the 6th century BC onward.
The cult statue was of the
Temple The cella, or inner sanctum, god or goddess to whom the
temple was dedicated.
housed the cult statue.
Construction
The pediment,
This drawing is of an triangular in shape,
idealized Doric temple, often held sculpture.
showing how it was
both built and used.




















Fluting on the
columns was carved
in situ, guided by that on
A ramp led up to the the top and bottom drums.
temple entrance.
The column drums were
The stepped platform was initially carved with bosses
built on a stone foundation. for lifting them into place.
The Illusion of Perfection
The base of the
Every aspect of the Parthenon was built on a 9:4 ratio to temple is higher in
make the temple completely symmetrical. The sculptors the middle than at
also used visual trickery to counteract the laws of the edges.
perspective. The illustration (right) is exaggerated
to show the techniques they employed.

Entasis (a bulge in
the middle) makes each
4
9 column look straight.
4
Each column leans
9 slightly inward.




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The Development of Temple Architecture
The gable ends of the
roof were surmounted by Greek temple architecture is divided into three styles, which evolved
statues, known as akroteria, chronologically, and are most easily distinguished by the column capitals.
in this case of a Nike or
“Winged Victory”. Almost
no upper portions of Doric temples were surrounded by sturdy
Greek temples survive. columns with plain capitals and no bases.
As the earliest style of stone buildings, they
The roof was recall wooden prototypes.
supported on Guttae imitated the
wooden beams Triangular pediment filled pegs for fastening the
and covered in with sculpture wooden roof beams.
rows of terra-cotta
tiles, each ending Triglyphs
in an upright resembled
antefix. the ends
of cross
beams.
Metopes
could Doric
contain capital
sculpture.
Ionic temples differed from Doric in their Akroteria, at the roof
tendency to have more columns, of a corners, could look
different form. The capital has a pair of Persian in style.
volutes, like rams’ horns, front and back.
The Ionic architrave
The frieze was a was subdivided into
continuous band projecting bands.
of decoration.
The
Ionic
frieze
Stone blocks were took the
smoothly fitted together place of
and held by metal Doric
clamps and dowels: no triglyphs
mortar was used in the and
temple’s construction. metopes.
Ionic
The ground plan was
derived from the megaron capital
of the Mycenaean house:
a rectangular hall with a
front porch that was Corinthian temples in Greece were built under The pediment
supported by columns. the Romans in Athens, Corinth, and Kos. They was decorated
feature columns with slender shafts and elaborate with a variety
capitals decorated with acanthus leaves. of moldings.
Caryatids,
or figures Akroterion in the shape of a griffin
of women,
were used The cella The entablature was
everything above
instead of entrance was at the capitals.
columns the east end.
in the
Erechtheion
at Athens’
Acropolis.
In Athens’
Agora (see
p453), tritons
(fish-tailed
sons of Acanthus
Poseidon) leaf capital
were used.



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Central Greece with the remains of an ancient
sanctuary of Apollo, which had
Beyond the endless urban sprawl of Athens, the vast expanse occupied the site until it was
of central Greece has a little of everything for the visitor, from destroyed in AD 395. In the early
sandy beaches and fishing ports, to one of the country’s most 13th century, Otto de la Roche,
important archaeological sites, Ancient Delphi. Not to be the first Frankish Duke of Athens,
missed is the Byzantine splendor of the monasteries of Dafní bequeathed it to Cistercian
and Osios Loúkas, while the extraordinary mountain-top monks in Burgundy. Greek
Orthodox monks took the site in
monasteries of Metéora are another of the region’s principal the 16th century, erecting the
attractions. The beautiful wooded mountain slopes of the elegant cloisters just south of
Pílio offer some of the best scenery on the mainland. the church. The monastery is
currently being restored, due to
an earthquake which hit in 2000.
Among the monastery’s
principal attractions are the
beautiful gold-leaf Byzantine
mosaics in the katholikón (main
church). Byzantine church
architecture was concerned
almost exclusively with
decoration. Mosaics and
frescoes portraying the whole
body of the Church, from Christ
downward, had a dual purpose:
they gave inspiration to
worshipers and represented
windows to the spiritual world.
The most impressive mosaics
The Temple of Poseidon on the cape at Soúnio at Dafní are the Esonarthex
Mosaics, which include the
2 Soúnio Byron, carved his name on one Last Supper, the Washing of the
of the columns, setting an Feet, and the Betrayal of Judas.
9 km (5.5 miles) S of Lávrio, Attica.
Tel 22920-39363. @ to Lávrio. unfortunate precedent of Equally magnificent, the Christ
Open summer: 8am–sunset daily; vandalism at the temple. Pantokrátor is a mosaic of Christ
winter: 9:30am–sunset daily. & the Judge that fills the church’s
3 Monastery of huge dome.
The temple of Poseidon, Dafní
situated at the top of sheer 4 Monastery of
cliffs tumbling into the Aegean 10 km (6 miles) NW of Athens, Attica. Osios Loúkas
Sea at Soúnio (Cape Sounion), Tel 210-581 1558. @ Open
was ideally located as a place 9am–2pm Tue & Fri. 7 limited. 8 km (5 miles) E of Dístomo, Stereá
to worship the powerful god Elláda. Tel 22670-22228. @
of the sea. Its brilliant white Taking its present form during Open 8am–6pm daily. &
marble columns have been a the 11th century AD, the
landmark for ancient and Monastery of Dafní is named Dedicated to a local hermit and
modern mariners alike. after the laurels (dáfnes) that healer, Osios Loúkas (“Holy
The present temple, built in once grew here. It was built Luke”), who died in 953 AD, this
444 BC, stands on the site of splendid monastery was one of
older ruins. An Ionic frieze, made med ieval Greece’s most
from 13 slabs of Parian marble, is important buildings architect-
located on the east side of the urally. It was built around AD
temple’s main approach path. 1011 during the reign of
It is very eroded, but is known Emperor Basil II, extending an
to have depicted scenes from earlier church dating from 944.
mythological battles, as well The octag onal style of the main
as the adventures of the hero church, the katholikón, became
Theseus, said in some legends a hallmark of late Byzantine
to be the son of Poseidon. church design, while the
Marble from the quarries at mosaics inside lifted Byzantine
Agriléza was used for the temple’s art into its final great period.
34 slender Doric columns, of Among the most impressive
which 15 survive today. In 1810 The 5th-century Byzantine Monastery of features of the monastery are
the British Romantic poet, Lord Dafní, near Athens the 10th-century crypt, which is
For hotels and restaurants see pp484–6 and pp487–9


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the remains visible today date
from the 4th century BC.
Leading from the sanctuary
entrance to the Temple of
Apollo is the Sacred Way, once
lined with some 3,000 statues
and treasuries. Also worth
seeing is the well-preserved
Stadium. The present structure
dates from Roman times, and
most of the seating is still intact.
The Marmaria (“marble
quarry”) Precinct is where the
Sanctuary of Athena Pronaia
Detail from an 11th-century mosaic in the is found. Here, the most
Monastery of Osios Loúkas remarkable monument is the
tholos, which dates from the
from the original church and 4th century BC. The purpose Traditional-style guesthouses in the Pílio
contains the sarcophagus of of this circular structure, village of Vyzítsa
Holy Luke, and a mosaic originally surrounded by 20
entitled Washing of the Apostles’ columns, remains a mystery. Crusaders and the Ottomans.
Feet. This 11th-century work, The museum at Ancient After centuries of protecting its
based on a style dating back to Delphi houses an impressive culture, the Pílio is known for its
the 6th century, is the finest of collection of sculptures and strong local cuisine.
a number of mosaics found in architectural remains. The gateway town to the
the narthex, the western peninsula is Vólos, which has
entrance hall. On the squinches 6 Pílio an excellent Archaeological
supporting the main dome, Museum. From here you can
other fine mosaics of the same Thessaly. @ Vólos. £ n Plateía Riga make a tour of the many
period include The Nativity Feraíou, Vólos (24210-23500). traditional hillside villages and
and The Baptism. fishing ports. Worth visiting are
The Pilio Peninsula is one of the Miliés, with its Folk Museum
5 Ancient Delphi most beautiful areas of the and fresco-adorned church,
mainland. The mountain air is
and picturesque Vyzítsa.
Mount Parnassus, Stereá Elláda. sweet with the scent of herbs, Argalastí is the largest
Tel 22650-82313. @ Open 8am–7pm which in ancient times were settlement in the south of the
daily (winter: to 3pm). Closed main renowned for their healing peninsula. For fine sandy
public hols. & 7 properties. The area became beaches and excellent seafood,
populated in the 13th century visit the popular coastal resorts
In ancient times, Delphi was by Greeks retreating from Latin of Plataniás or Agios Ioánnis.
believed to be the center of the
earth. The site was renowned as
a dwelling place of Apollo, and
from the late 8th century BC
people came here to worship
and seek advice from the god.
With the political rise of Delphi
in the 6th century BC, and the
establishment of the Pythian
Games – a cultural, religious,
and athletic festival – the site
entered a golden age that
lasted until the arrival of the
Romans in 191 BC. The Delphic
Oracle was abolished in AD 393
after Christianity was introduced
as the state religion.
The Sanctuary of Apollo, also
known as the Sacred Precinct,
forms the heart of the complex,
and one of its most impressive
sights is the Temple of Apollo.
A temple has stood on this spot
since the 6th century BC, but The tholos beside the Sanctuary of Athena Pronaia at Ancient Delphi




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7 Metéora

The extraordinary sandstone towers of Metéora (or “suspended
rocks”) were formed by the action of the sea that covered the
plain of Thessaly around 30 million years ago. The huge columns
of rock were first used as a religious retreat in AD 985, when a
hermit named Barnabas occupied a cave here. In the mid-14th
century, Neílos, the Prior of Stagai convent, built a small church.
A few years later, in 1382, the monk Athanásios, from Mount
Athos, founded the huge monastery of Megálo Metéoro on one
of the many pinnacles. A further 23 monasteries were built,
though most had fallen into ruin by the 19th century. In the
1920s, stairs were cut in the rock faces to make the remaining
six monasteries more accessible, and today a religious revival
has seen an increase in the number of monks and nuns.

MEGALO
METEORO
VARLAAM
AGIOS
NIKOLAOS ROUSANOU
Kalampáka

AGIA TRIADA
AGIOS STEFANOS
Kalampáka
Location of Monasteries of Metéora
Rousánou
Moní Rousánou,
perched precariously
on the very tip of a
narrow spire of rock,
is the most spectacularly
located of all the
monasteries. Its church
of the Metamórfosis
(1545) is renowned for
its harrowing frescoes of
grisly martyrdoms,
painted in 1560 by
iconographers of the
Cretan school.
KEY
1 Outer walls
2 Monastic cells
3 The refectory contains a small
icon museum.
4 Net descending from tower


Megálo Metéoro
Also known as the Great Meteoron, this was
the first and, at 623 m (2,045 ft), highest
monastery to be founded. By the entrance
is a cave in which Athanásios first lived.
His body is buried in the main church.
For hotels and restaurants see pp484–6 and pp487–9


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Katholikón VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
Dedicated to
Agioi Pántes Practical Information
(All Saints), the Kalampáka. n Pindou &
church is adorned Ioannínon streets (24320-78000).
with frescoes, Megálo Metéoro: Tel 24320-
including one of 75398. Open summer: Wed–Mon;
Theofánis (right) winter: Thu–Mon. Varlaám:
and Nektários, Tel 24320-22277. Open summer:
its founders. Sat–Thu; winter: Sat–Wed. Agíou
Nikoláou: Open Sat–Thu.
Rousánou: Tel 24320-22649.
Open Thu–Tue. Agías Triádas:
Tel 24320-22220. Open summer:
Fri–Wed; winter: Fri–Tue. Agíou
Stefánou: Tel 24320-22279.
Open Tue–Sun. All monasteries:
Closed 1–3pm. & 5 Agías
Triádas & Agíou Stefánou.
Transport
@






Ascent Tower
Goods and
people were
brought to the
top of the rock
in a net that
was pulled up
by a winch
mechanism,
made in 1536.

Varlaam
Founded in 1518, the monastery of
Varlaám is named after the first hermit to
Entrance live on this rock in 1350. The katholikón
(main church) was built in 1542 and
contains frescoes by the Theban
iconographer Frágkos Katelános.


The Building of
the Monasteries
Though it is unknown how the first
hermits at Metéora reached the tops
of these often vertical rock faces, it is
likely that they hammered pegs into
tiny gaps in the rock and hauled
building materials to the summits.
Another theory is that kites were
flown over the tops, carrying strings
attached to thicker ropes, which
were made into the first rope ladders.
How the ladders were anchored to
the rock is uncertain.





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Northern Greece should also make time to see
the museum’s stunning
Northern Greece offers an appealing combination of collection of Macedonian gold.
comparatively unexplored natural beauty and a rich cultural Visitors should not miss the
heritage. The stunning scenery of places like Mount Olympos city’s rich array of UNESCO-listed
holds special appeal to walking enthusiasts, while of historical Byzantine churches, which
include the 5th-century Agios
interest in the region are several ancient archaeological Dimítrios – the largest church
sites, including Pélla, the birthplace of Alexander the Great. in Greece. Dating from the mid-
Many of northern Greece’s finest examples of Byzantine 8th century, Agía Sofía is an
architecture and art are to be found on the Athos Peninsula important building, both for
and in the bustling city of Thessaloníki. its mosaics and for its role in
influencing future architectural
AD 303 by the Emperor development, while the
Galerius to celebrate 14th-century Agios Nikólaos
victory over the Persians, Orfanós contains the best-
and is the principal preserved collection of late
architectural legacy of Byzantine frescoes in the city.
Roman rule. Standing
north of the arch is the E Archaeological Museum
Rotónda, believed to have Manóli Androníkou & Leof Stratoú.
been constructed as a Tel 2310-830538. @ 3. Open
mausoleum for Galerius. summer: 8am–8pm daily; winter:
Open daily, it has been 10am–5pm Mon, 8am–3pm Tue–Sun.
used in the past as both Closed main public hols. & 7
a church and a mosque. ∑ amth.gr
Thessaloníki has a
number of museums, 9 Ancient Pélla
including the Museum of
Byzantine Culture and 38 km (24 miles) NW of Thessaloníki.
the Folk and Ethnological Tel 23820-32963. @ Open daily.
Museum, housed in an Closed main public hols. & 7
ornate, 1906-built mansion.
The 15th-century White Tower on the The star attractions at the This small site was once the
waterfront in Thessaloníki city’s Archaeological flourishing capital of
Museum are the Roman Macedonia. The court was
8 Thessaloníki floor mosaics, and the splendid moved here from Aigai (near
Dervéni Krater, a 4th-century BC modern Vergína) in 410 BC by
* 690,670. k 25 km (15 miles)
SE. g £ @ n 136 Tsimiski bronze wine-mixing bowl. You King Archelaos, who ruled from
(2310-221100).
Thessaloníki, also known as The Macedonian Royal Family
Salonika, is Greece’s second The gold burial casket found at Vergína is emblazoned with the
city, and was founded by King Macedonian Sun, the symbol of the king. Philip II was from a
Kassandros in 315 BC. The capital long line of Macedonian kings that began in about 660 BC with
of the Roman province of Perdiccas I. Philip was the first ruler to unite the whole of Greece as
Macedonia Prima from 146 BC, it existed at that time. Much of Greece’s pride in the symbol lies in
it later became part of the the fact that Alexander the Great used it throughout his empire. He
Byzantine Empire. In 1430 it was was just 20 when his father was assassinated in 336 BC. He inherited
captured by the Turks, who held his father’s already large empire and also his ambition to conquer
it until 1912. Today Thessaloníki the Persians. In 334 BC,
is a bustling cosmopolitan city Alexander crossed the
Dardanelles with 40,000
and a major cultural center. men and defeated the
On the paralía, the city’s Persians in three different
attractive waterfront, stands battles, advancing as
one of Thessaloníki’s most far as the Indus Valley
famous sights, the White before he died at
Tower. Built in 1430, this is the age of 33. With his
one of three towers that death, the Macedonian
were added to the city walls empire divided.
by the Turks. Today it houses
a permanent exhibition Gold burial casket from the
tracing the city’s history. The Royal Tombs at Vergína
Arch of Galerius was built in
For hotels and restaurants see pp484–6 and pp487–9


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Athos Pilgrims’ Bureau in
Thessaloníki (Egnatías 109,
www.agioritikiestia.gr) up to six
months in advance; the final
permit is collected in person in
Ouranópoli, and grants a stay of
up to four nights. Accom-
modations are free, though
donations are expected.

q Mount Olympos
17 km (10 miles) W of Litóchoro.
@ Litóchoro. n EOS: Evángelou
Karavákou 20, Litóchoro (23520-
The Russian Orthodox monastery Agíou Panteleímonos, on Mount Athos 83000). ∑ olympusfd.gr
413 to 399 BC. It is here that provide a fascinating insight The name Mount Olympos
Alexander the Great was born in into Orthodox monastic life. refers to a whole range of
356 BC, and was later tutored by For the monks who live here, mountains, 20 km (12 miles)
the philosopher Aristotle. Some the day begins at 3 or 4am with across. The highest peak in the
sense of the existence of a city morning services and prayers. range is Mytikas, at 2,917 m
can be gained from a plan of They eat two meals a day. There (9,570 ft). The entire area
the site, which shows where the are 159 fasting days in the year. constitutes the Olympos
main street and stores were Between meals, the monks National Park, an area of out-
located. The palace, believed to spend their time working, standing natural beauty that
have been north of the main resting, and praying. attracts naturalists and walkers
site, is still being excavated. Ouranoúpoli is the main town alike. The park’s rich flora and
At the site, and in the of secular Athos and where boat fauna include 1,700 plant
museum, are some of the best- trips for the peninsula’s west coast species, in addition to chamois,
preserved pebble mosaics in start. Among the monasteries boars, and roe deer. From
Greece. Dating from about that can be viewed are the Litóchoro, which has several
300 BC, the mosaics depict vivid 10th-century Docheiaríou, Agíou hotels and tavernas, walkers
hunting scenes. One of the most Panteleímonos, an 11th-century can follow a series of trails.
famous is of Dionysos riding a Russian Orthodox monastery, and A short distance from
panther; it is housed in the now- Agíou Pávlou. On the east Litóchoro is Ancient Dion,
covered, 4th-century BC House coast, Megístis Lávras was the considered a holy city by the
of the Lion Hunt. Originally first monastery to be founded ancient Macedonians. The flat
comprising 12 rooms around on Athos, while 10th-century plains were used as a military
three open courtyards, this Vatopedíou, farther north, is camp by King Philip II of
building was constructed at one of the largest and best- Macedon in the 4th century BC.
the end of the 4th century BC. preserved buildings. Adult The ruins visible today – which
males wishing to visit any of the include mosaics, baths, and a
monasteries must obtain a theater – date mainly from the
0 Mount Athos written entrance permit from Roman era. A museum shows
Athos Peninsula. g Dáfni (boat the Holy Executive of the Mount finds from the site.
trips from Ouranoúpoli & Sithonía
peninsula for the west coast, or from
Ierissós for the east coast). @ to
Karyés. & donation.
Also known as the Holy
Mountain, Mount Athos is the
highest point on the Athos
Peninsula – an autonomous
republic, ruled by the 1,700
monks who live in its 20
monasteries. Only adult males
may visit the peninsula, but
it is possible to see many
of the monasteries from a boat
trip along the coast. They
include some fine examples
of Byzantine architecture and The peaks of the Mount Olympos range rising above Litóchoro




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The Peloponnese buildings preserved by the
Romans when they rebuilt the
One of the primary strongholds and battlefields of the city in 44 BC. Of the Temple of
1821–31 Revolution, the Peloponnese is the kernel from which Octavia, once dedicated to the
the modern Greek state grew. The region boasts a wealth of sister of Emperor Augustus,
ancient and medieval ruins, from Bronze Age Mycenae to three ornate Corinthian
columns, overarched by a
the Byzantine town of Mystrás. As popular as its vast array restored architrave, are all that
of historical sites is the Peloponnese’s spectacularly varied remain. The Odeion is one of
landscape. The breathtaking scenery of places like the Loúsios several buildings endowed to
Gorge attracts walkers and naturalists in their thousands. the city by Herodes Atticus, the
wealthy Athenian and friend of
of the Roman the Emperor Hadrian.
emperors, the Close to the Odeion, the
town gained a Museum houses a collection of
reputation for exhibits representing all periods
licentious living, of the town’s history. The Roman
which St. Paul gallery is particularly rich,
attacked when containing some spectacular
he came here 2nd-century AD mosaics lifted
in AD 52. from the floors of nearby villas.
Excavations have Just 4 km (2 miles) south of
revealed the vast Ancient Corinth is the bastion
The ruins of Acrocorinth, south of Ancient Corinth extent of the of Acrocorinth, to which there
ancient city, is access between 8:30am and
w Ancient Corinth which was destroyed by 3pm each day. Held and
7 km (4 miles) SW of modern Corinth. earthquakes in Byzantine times. refortified by every occupying
Tel 27410-31207. @ Open 8am–8pm The ruins constitute the largest power in Greece from Roman
daily (winter: to 3pm). Closed main Roman township in Greece. times onward, it was one of
public hols. & 7 limited. Among the most impressive the country’s most important
remains are the Lechaion Way, fortresses in medieval times.
A settlement since Neolithic the marble-paved road that The ruins show evidence of
times, Ancient Corinth was linked the nearby port of Byzantine, Turkish, Frankish,
razed in 146 BC by the Romans, Lechaion with the city, and the and Venetian occupation. The
who rebuilt it a century later. Temple of Apollo, with its summit of Acrocorinth affords
Attaining a population of striking Doric columns. The one of the most sweeping
750,000 under the patronage temple was one of the few views in the whole of Greece.

Reconstruction of Ancient Northwest stoa
Corinth (c.AD 100) Temple of Octavia
Agora
Odeion
South stoa














Theater
Basilica
Temple of
Lechaion Way Apollo

For hotels and restaurants see pp484–6 and pp487–9


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of interest at the site are the t Náfplio
remains of the Royal Palace, * 14,200. £ @ n Inside Town
the Secret Stairway, which Hall, Vasiléos Konstantínou (27520-
leads down to a cistern deep 24444).
beneath the citadel, and the
13th-century BC Lion Gate, the One of the most elegant towns
grand entrance to Mycenae. in mainland Greece, Náfplio
emerged in the 13th century
r Epidaurus and later endured many sieges
during the struggles between
30 km (19 miles) E of Náfplio. the Turks and the Venetians for
Tel 27530-22009. @ Open 8am–8pm the ports of the Peloponnese.
daily (to 5pm Nov–Mar). Closed main From 1829 to 1834, it was the
public hols. & 7 limited. 8 first capital of liberated Greece.
A number of fortifications
Active from the 6th century BC testify to the town’s checkered
until at least the 2nd century history. The island fortress of
AD, the Sanctuary of Epidaurus Boúrtzi is a legacy of the
was an extensive therapeutic second Venetian occupation
and religious center, dedicated (1686–1715). Akronafplía, also
Interior of the tomb known as the Treasury to the healing god Asklepios. known as Its Kale (“Inner Castle”
of Atreus, at Mycenae The site is most renowned for in Turkish), was the site of the
its magnificent Theater, whose Byzantine and early medieval
e Mycenae cavea (cavity) is 114 m (374 ft) town, while the Venetian citadel
across and surrounds a 20 m of Palamídi was built between
2 km (1 mile) N of Mykínes. Tel 27510-
76585. @ to Mykínes. Open daily. (66 ft) diameter orchestra (stage). 1711 and 1714.
Closed main public hols. & 7 Designed in the late 4th century The Plateía Syntágmatos, the
Treasury of Atreus and museum only. BC, the theater is well known for hub of public life, looks much
near-perfect acoustics, and has as it did three centuries ago,
Discovered in 1874, the fortified the only circular orchestra to when two mosques were built
palace complex of Mycenae is an have survived from antiquity. by the victorious Ottomans.
early example of sophisticated Today, it is the venue for an These are now the cathedral,
citadel architecture. The annual summer festival of Agios Geórgios, and the
Mycenaeans were a Bronze Age ancient drama. Catholic church.
culture that existed between Most of the Asklepieion, The town has two museums
1700 and 1100 BC. Only the or Sanctuary of Asklepios, is of note: the award-winning
ruling class inhabited the currently being re-excavated. Folk Art Museum, and the
palace, with artisans and Accessible remains include Archaeological Museum,
merchants living outside the the propylaia, or monumental which houses mainly local
city walls. The citadel was gateway, a late Classical pre-Mycenaean artifacts.
abandoned in 1100 BC after stadium, and the tholos – a Located 4 km (2 miles) outside
much disruption in the region. circular building, thought to Náfplio, the 12th-century convent
The tombs at Mycenae are have been used either as a of Agía Moní is worth visiting.
one of the most famous pit for sacred serpents, or as
attractions of the site. The city’s the setting for religious rites. E Archaeological Museum
nobles were entombed in shaft Of Asklepios’s temple, to the Plateía Syntágmatos. Tel 27520-27502.
graves, such as those at Grave east of the tholos, only the Open 8am–3pm Tue–Sun.
Circle A, or, later, in tholos foundations have survived. Closed main public hols.
(“beehive”) tombs, so-called
because of their shape. The
tholos tombs, found outside
the palace walls, were buried
under an earth mound, the
only entrance being via a
dromos, or open-air corridor. The
14th-century BC Treasury of
Atreus is the most outstanding
of the tholos tombs. Here a
Mycenaean king was buried
with his weapons and enough
food and drink for his journey to
the underworld. The so-called
Tomb of Klytemnestra is
equally well preserved. Also The fortified isle of Boúrtzi, north of Náfplio harbor




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u Máni Peninsula Kelefá Castle. Visitors to Inner
Máni should also see the Pýrgos
g Gýtheio. @ Kalamáta (Outer Máni), Diroú cave system, and the
Areópoli (Inner Máni). n Vasiléos
Georgiou 20, Gýtheio (27330-24484). many Byzantine churches
scattered along the west coast.
The harsh and remote Máni Built between the 10th and
Peninsula is divided into two 14th centuries, the finest
areas, Outer Máni and Inner churches include Taxiarchón, at
Máni, separated by a ravine at Charoúda, Agios Theódoros, at
Oítylo. The area is most famous Vámvaka, and, near Ano Mpoul-
for its history of internal feuding, árioi village, Agios Panteleímon,
which led to the building of containing 10th-cen tury
many fine tower houses. From frescoes. Overlooking the sea
the 15th century, rival clansmen, and Cape Taínaro, Vátheia is
fighting over the inadequate one of the most dramatically
land, used the towers to shoot located of the villages in the
The cliff-top church of Agía Sofía, at their opponents. After years Máni. It is worth visiting just
Monemvasía upper town of bloodshed, the clans finally to see its collection of
united, instigating the Greek tower houses.
y Monemvasía Independence uprising in 1821.
The main places of interest in
* 1420. g @ n 27320-61210. more fertile Outer Máni are
Oítylo, with its elegant 19th-
This fortified town is built on century mansions, and Karda-
two levels on a rock rising 350 m mýli, the lair of the Troupákis
(1,150 ft) above the sea. A town family, one of the most
of 50,000 in its 15th-century important Maniot clans. In the
halcyon days, Monemvasía was environs of Kardamýli are the
for centuries a semi-autonomous stunning Vyrós Gorge, and
city-state, which prospered Stoúpa, popular for its two
thanks to its strategic position sandy bays. Mount Taÿgetos is
astride the sea lanes from Italy one of the area’s beauty spots,
to the Black Sea. After a and can offer several days of
protracted siege, the town was wilderness trekking for the
finally surrendered by the experienced and well-equipped.
Ottomans in 1821 during the In Inner Máni, bustling
War of Independence. Gýtheio is one of the most
In the restored lower town, attractive coastal towns in the
enclosed by the formidable southern Peloponnese. Its Ruins of the Despots’ Palace in the
16th-century walls, are a number 18th-century fortress houses the Byzantine town of Mystrás
of mosques and churches. They Museum of the Máni. Areópoli,
include the 18th-century “the city of Ares” (god of war), i Mystrás
Panagía Myrtidióssa and the was where the Maniot uprising 5 km (3 miles) W of Spárti. Tel 27310-
13th-century cathedral, Christós against the Turks was declared 83377. @ to Néos Mystrás. Open daily.
Elkómenos, with its Venetian by Pétros Mavromichális. Nearby Closed main public hols. &
belfry. Also found in the lower is the 17th-century Ottoman
town is Giánnis Rítsos’s House, Majestic Mystrás occupies a
where this prominent 20th- panoramic site on a spur of
century Greek poet and com- the severe Taÿgetos range.
munist was born, and his grave. Founded by the Franks in 1249,
The upper town, which the town soon passed to the
lies largely in ruins, has been Byzantines, under whom it
uninhabited since 1911. It attained a population of 20,000
was first fortified in the 6th and, after 1348, became the
century, and is the oldest part seat of the Despots of Morea.
of Monemvasía. Here, the most The despotate acted semi-
impressive sight is the still- independently and, by the
intact, cliff-top church of Agía 15th century, Mystrás had
Sofía, founded by Emperor become the last major
Andronikos II (1282–1328) and Byzantine cultural center,
modeled on the Monastery attracting scholars and artists
of Dafní (see p460). Visitors from Italy, Constantinople, and
can also see the remains of Fishing boats moored in Gýtheio harbor in Serbia. One result was the
a 13th-century fortress. Inner Máni uniquely cosmopolitan
For hotels and restaurants see pp484–6 and pp487–9


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GREECE  469


decoration of Mystrás’s churches,
whose pastel-colored frescoes,
crowded with detail, reflect
Italian Renaissance influence.
Now in ruins, Mystrás consists
of an upper and lower town,
with a wealth of churches,
monasteries, palaces, and houses
lining its narrow streets. Among
the churches and monasteries
worth visiting are Mitrópoli – the
oldest church in Mystrás, dating
from 1291– Moní Perivléptou,
from 1310, and Moní
Pantánassas, from 1428. The
Vrontóchion, a 13th-century
monastic complex, was the
cultural heart of medieval
Mystrás. Visitors can also explore
the ruins of the Despots’ Palace,
and the Kástro, an impressive Remains of the Palaestra, or training center, at Ancient Olympia
fortification that crowns the
summit of the upper town, and which include several churches the coming of the Dorians, at
affords views of the entire site. and monasteries clinging to the the beginning of the first
steep cliffs of the gorge. Of millennium BC. They brought
o Loúsios Gorge these, the most impressive are the worship of Zeus, after whose
abode on Mount Olympos the
Moní Aimyalón, founded in
@ Dimitsána. All monasteries 1605 and containing some site was named. Olympia
Open dawn to dusk daily. Moní magnificent frescoes, the 17th- reached its zenith in the 5th
Aimyalón Closed 2–5pm. century Néa Moní Filosófou, century BC, but by the end of
and the 10th-century Moní the reign of Roman Emperor
Although merely a tributary of Agíou Ioánnou Prodrómou, Hadrian (AD 117–38), it had
the Alfeiós River, the Loúsios wedged into the canyon’s east begun to have less religious and
stream boasts one of the most flank. Occupying a sunken political significance. The first
impressive canyons in Greece. excavation on the stream’s Olympian Games, the forerunner
Scarcely 5 km (3 miles) long, the west bank is the Asklepieion, of the Olympic Games, took
Loúsios Gorge is nearly 300 m or therapeutic center, of place here in 776 BC, but were
(985 ft) deep at its narrowest Ancient Gortys. On this site lie banned in AD 393 by Emperor
section. A number of hiking trails the foundations of a 4th- Theodosius I, who took a dim
connect the area’s high lights, century BC temple to Asklepios, view of the pagan festival.
the god of healing. Accessible The most important ruins
from here, or by road from include the 5th-century BC Doric
Karýtaina, the cliffside Temple of Zeus, of which only
monastery of Palaioú Kalamioú column bases and tumbled
has excellent frescoes. sections remain, and the partly
Overlooking the gorge, reconstructed Palaestra, which
the beautiful hillside towns was a training center for athletes.
of Dimitsána, Karýtaina, and In Pheidias’s Workshop, a huge
Stemnítsa make good bases statue of Zeus was sculpted in
from which to explore the area. the 5th century BC.
Also not to be missed is the
p Ancient Olympia Archaeological Museum, one of
the richest museums in Greece,
Tel 26240-22517. £ @ Open May– with exhibits from prehistory,
Oct: 8am–sunset Mon–Fri; weekends through to the Classical period
& Nov–Apr: earlier closure. Closed and the Roman era. The central
main public hols. & hall houses the pediment and
metope sculpture from the
The sanctuary of Olympia Temple of Zeus. The Hermes of
enjoyed over 1,000 years of Praxiteles has a niche to itself.
renown as a religious and
athletics center. Though it E Archaeological Museum
Moní Agíou Ioánnou Prodrómou in the flourished in Mycenaean times, Tel 26240-22742. Open daily. Closed
Loúsios Gorge its historic importance dates to main public hols. & 8 7




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470  IT AL Y AND GREECE

a Corfu and the Ionian Islands

The Ionian Islands are the greenest and most fertile of all the Corfu
island groups. Lying off the west coast of mainland Greece, • Corfu town
they have been greatly influenced by Western Europe. Periods
of rule by the Venetians, French, and British have left their
mark on many of the islands, especially in the mixed Kefalloniá
architecture of places like Corfu town. The Ionians first became Athens
a holiday destination during the Roman era, and today their Zákynthos
beaches remain one of their most popular attractions.

Locator Map
The Palace of St. Michael
and St. George was built
by the British between Also worth seeing are the
1819 and 1824 to serve Town Hall – a grand Venetian
as the residence of a high building located in the Plateía
commissioner. Used for a Dimarcheíou – the Byzantine
short time by the Greek Museum, and the fascinating
royal family after the British Archaeological Museum. The
left the island, the palace is latter’s centerpiece is a stunning
now home to the eclectic Gorgon frieze.
Museum of Asiatic Art. On the town’s eastern side
The palace overlooks the stands the 16th-century
Esplanade, or Spianáda, a Venetian-built Old Fortress,
mixture of park and town which affords magnificent views
square, and the site of the over the town and along the
cricket ground. Once a island’s east coast. The New
The elegant parade of cafés known as the Venetian firing range, the Fortress was built shortly after
Liston in Corfu town cricket pitch was developed the old one to strengthen the
by the British, though it is no town’s defenses.
Corfu longer in use. Nearby, the Enosis
* 104,000. k 3 km (1.5 miles) S of Monument commemorates the P Palace of St. Michael
Corfu town. g Xenofóntos Stratigoú, 1864 union of the Ionian Islands and St. George
Corfu town. @ n Plateía Saróko. with the rest of Greece. The Palaia Anaktora. Tel 26610-30443.
Liston, a parade of cafés that Open 8am–8pm (to 3pm in winter)
Corfu offers the diverse was built in 1807 as a copy of the Tue–Sun. Closed main public hols.
attractions of secluded coves, Rue de Rivoli in Paris, lines one
bustling resorts, and traditional side of the square. Northern Corfu
hill villages. Between 229 BC Another of the town’s most Northern Corfu, in particular
and AD 337 it was part of the famous sights, the distinctive the northeast coast, is a busy
Roman empire. It remained red-domed belfry of Agios vacation destination, which
under Byzantine rule until the Spyrídon is the tallest belfry on boasts a whole host of popular
14th century, when the Corfu. The church was built in resorts and beaches. Set around
Venetians took control. French 1589 and dedicated to the a fishing harbor, Kassiópi has
and British occupation followed, island’s patron saint. retained its character in spite
before unification with Greece
in 1864. Though the island is
most popular for its beaches,
inland there are many places
where you can still observe
the traditional lifestyle of the
Corfiot people.
Corfu Town
The checkered history of the
island is reflected in Corfu
town’s varied architecture.
With its grand French-style
colonnades, elegant Italianate
buildings, and famous cricket
pitch, the town is a delightful
blend of European influences. The multiple picturesque bays of Palaiokastrítsa in northern Corfu
For hotels and restaurants see pp484–6 and pp487–9


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THE GREEK ISLANDS  471


stunning scenery. Mount
Aínos and the Mount Aínos
National Park, in the south,
and the haunting, subterranean
Melissaní Cave-Lake are sights
not to be missed. Fiskárdo,
with its 18th-century Venetian
houses clustered by the harbor,
is Kefalloniá’s prettiest village.
From here ferries go to
Lefkáda; services to Ithaca
depart from Sámi or Póros.
Zákynthos
Vacation apartments at Fiskárdo on the island of Kefalloniá * 40,000. k 4 km (2.5 miles) S of
Zákynthos town. g Zákynthos town,
of the influx of tourists. Nearby of Austria (1837–98). After a tour Agios Nikólaos. @ Zákynthos town.
are the ruins of a 13th-century of the palace and its gardens, n Lomvárdou St, Zákynthos town
castle, and the church of visit the Vasilákis Tastery (26950-25428).
Kassiopítra, which occupies the opposite, and sample this local
site of a former temple of Zeus. distiller’s kumquat liqueur. Zákynthos is an attractive
The bustling vacation center and green island, with good
of Sidári is famous for its sandy P Achílleion Palace beaches and beautiful scenery
beaches and unusual rock 10 km (7 miles) SW of Corfu town. @ to be enjoyed.
formations, while picturesque Tel 26610-56210. Open daily. Zákynthos town is the point
Palaiokastrítsa has safe of arrival on the island. Here, the
swimming and water sports, Kefalloniá impressive church of Agios
as well as boat trips to nearby Dionysios, and the Byzantine
grottoes. Vacationers wanting * 35,000. k 9 km (6 miles) S of Museum, which houses a
a diversion from the busy Argostóli. g Argostóli, Fiskárdo. breathtaking array of frescoes,
resort atmosphere can visit @ Ioánnou Metaxá, Argostóli. n both deserve a visit.
the 17th-century monastery, Waterfront, Argostóli (26710-22248). The growth of tourism on
Moní Theotókou. Zákynthos has been heavily
Mount Pantokrátor, a short The largest island in the Ionians, concentrated in Laganás and
drive north of Corfu town, is Kefalloniá has a range of its 9 km (6 mile) sweep of
the highest point on Corfu, it attractions, from busy beach soft sand. The resort’s hectic
offers fine views over the resorts to areas of outstanding nightlife continues until dawn.
whole island, and across to natural beauty. Alternatively, visitors can head
the Epirot mainland. The capital, Argostóli, is a to the island’s north coast for
busy town located by a bay. the beach resorts of Tsiliví and
Southern Corfu Of interest are the Historical Alykés, the latter being especially
More varied than the north, and Folk Museum and the good for windsurfing. At the
southern Corfu offers other Archaeological Museum. northernmost tip of the island
attractions apart from beaches. Around the island, the liveliest are the unusual and spectacular
Tranquil hillside villages, such as places are Lássi and the south- Blue Caves. The caves can be
Vátos and Pélekas, contrast coast resorts, but elsewhere visited by boat from below the
with busy resorts like Benítses, there are quiet villages and lighthouse at Cape Skinári.
offering a more traditional
image of Greece.
Among the more peaceful
spots in the south is the Korisíon
Lagoon, a 5 km (3 mile) stretch
of water, separated from the sea
by some of the most beautiful
dunes and beaches on Corfu.
The area provides a habitat
for many species of birds and
wild flowers.
A popular day trip from any
of Corfu’s resorts is to the
Achílleion Palace, built between
1890 and 1891 as a personal
retreat for the Empress Elizabeth The Blue Caves of Zákynthos at the northern tip of the island




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472  IT AL Y AND GREECE

s Cyclades

The most visited island group, the Cyclades are everyone’s
Greek island ideal, with their whitewashed, cliff-top villages,
blue-domed churches, and stunning beaches. The islands ATHENS
vary greatly, from the quiet and traditional to the more
nightlife-oriented. The cradle of the Cycladic civilization Mýkonos
(3300–2000 BC), they also offer a rich ancient history. Náxos
Important archaeological sites, such as those on Delos and
Santoríni, provide a fascinating insight into the past. Santoríni

south, the Archaeological Locator Map
Museum has a fine
collection of ancient are also a couple of gay and/or
pottery, including finds nudist beaches, including Super
from the excavations of Paradise, Liá, and Eliá.
the ruins on Delos. Inland, the traditional village
In the Kástro, the oldest of Ano Merá remains largely
part of town, is the unspoiled by tourism. The
excellent, though rarely main attraction here is the
open, Folk Museum. 16th-century monastery
The 16th-century Vonís Panagía Tourlianí.
Windmill, still in working
order, is part of the T Delos
museum. Nearby, the 6 nautical miles SW of Mýkonos town.
most famous church on Tel 22890-22259. g 10–11am daily
the island is Panagía from Mýkonos town returning 2–3pm.
Para portianí, which Open Apr–Oct: daily; Nov–Mar: Tue–
dates back to 1425. From Sun. Closed main public hols. & 8
Working 16th-century windmill, part of the Folk Kástro, the lanes run The tiny, uninhabited island
Museum in Mýkonos town down into picturesque of Delos is one of the most
Mikrí Venetía (Little important archaeological sites
Mýkonos Venice), the artists’ quarter. Also in Greece. The legendary
worth visiting are the Maritime birthplace of Artemis and
* 10,000. k 3 km (1.5 miles) SE of
Mýkonos town. g Mýkonos town, Museum of the Aegean and Apollo, from 1000 BC it was
new or old ports. @ Polykandrióti the Municipal Art Gallery. home to the annual Delian
and also base of old-port jetty, Festival, held in honor of the
Mýkonos town (for north and east of E Archaeological Museum god Apollo. By 700 BC, it had
island); Fábrika, Mýkonos town (for Harborfront. Tel 22890-22325. become a major religious center
south of island). Open 9am–4pm Tue–Sun. and place of pilgrimage. In
Closed main public hols. & addition to some impressive
Sandy beaches and dynamic 2nd-century BC mosaics and
nightlife combine to make Around the Island temple ruins, the most
Mýkonos one of the most Mýkonos is popular primarily for important remains on Delos are
popular islands in the Cyclades. its beaches including long the magnificent 7th-century BC
Visited by intellectuals in the Kalafátis in the east and stylish Lion Terrace, the Theater, built
early days of tourism, today it Platýs Gialós, 3.5 km (2 miles) in 300 BC to hold 5,500 people,
thrives on its reputation as one south of Mýkonos town. There and the Theater Quarter.
of the glitziest island in Greece.
In addition to offering sun, sea,
and sand, the island is a good
base from which to visit the
ancient archaeological site
on Delos.
Mýkonos Town
The supreme example of a
Cycladic town, Mýkonos town
(or Chóra) is a tangle of dazzling
white alleys and cube-shaped
houses. It has a bustling port,
from where taxi boats for the
island of Delos leave. To the Lions carved from Naxian marble along the Lion Terrace on Delos
For hotels and restaurants see pp484–6 and pp487–9


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THE GREEK ISLANDS  473


Náxos Town
Overlooking Náxos town’s
bustling harbor is the huge,
marble, 6th­century BC Portára
gateway, built as the entrance to
the unfinished Temple of Apollo.
To the south, Agios Geórgios is
the main tourist center. The old
town divides into the Kástro –
the 13th­century Venetian
fortifications – and the medieval
Boúrgos lower down. The fine
18th­century Orthodox
Terraces of whitewashed buildings in Firá, Santoríni cathedral, the Mitrópoli
Zoödóchou Pigís, stands in
Santoríni Around the Island Boúrgos, which also has a busy
* 15,500. k 5 km (3 miles) SE of Within easy reach of Firá, on the market area. In the Kástro, the
Firá. g Athiniós, 7.5 km (5 miles) headland of Mésa Vounó, the Archaeological Museum, in a
south of Firá. @ 50 m (160 ft) ruins of the Dorian town of former French Jesuit school, has
S of main square, Firá. Ancient Thíra are not to be one of the best collections of
missed. Most of the ruins date Cycladic marble figurines in the
Colonized by the Minoans in from the Ptolemies, who built Greek islands.
3000 BC, this volcanic island temples to the Egyptian gods
erupted in about 1630 BC, in the 4th and 3rd centuries BC. E Archaeological Museum
forming Santoríni’s distinct There are also Hellenistic and French Jesuit School. Tel 22850­22725.
crescent shape. A popular Roman remains. Below the Open 8:30am–3pm Tue–Sun.
tourist destination, it is a site are the popular beaches Closed main public hols. &
stunning island, as of Períssa and Kamári.
famous for its Another of the Cyclades’ Around the Island
ancient archaeological most inspiring archaeo­ South of Náxos town are
sites as for its logical sites, the Minoan many fine beaches, including
whitewashed villages, settlement of Akrotíri Agía Anna and Kastráki –
volcanic cliffs, and black was unearthed in 1967, the latter good for water sports
sand beaches. still preserved after some – and tranquil Pláka.
3,500 years of burial under Inland, the Tragaiá Valley is a
Firá volcanic ash. Some of the walkers’ paradise. It is dotted
Founded in the late frescoes discovered here with picturesque villages, such
18th century, Firá was are displayed in the as Chalkí, with its Venetian
destroyed by an A donkey ride in National Archaeological architecture. Nearby Ano Sagkrí,
earthquake in 1956 and Firá, Santoríni Museum in Athens (see a reconstructed Demeter
rebuilt with reinforced p452); others are in Firá’s temple, is the most interesting
concrete on top of the volcanic Museum of Prehistoric Thera. ancient monument on Náxos.
cliffs. Packed with hotels, bars,
and restaurants, its streets enjoy T Ancient Thira
magnificent views out to sea. 11 km (7 miles) SW of Firá. Tel 22860­
The tiny cruise­ship port of 23217. @ to Kamári. Open 8am–3pm
Skála Firón, 270 m (890 ft) Tue–Sun. Closed main public hols.
below, is connected to the
town by cable car or by mule
up 580 steps. Náxos
Among Firá’s most interesting * 12,500. k 2 km (1 mile) S of
sights are the Museum of Náxos town. g @ Harborfront,
Prehistoric Thera, housing Náxos town.
compelling finds from the
Ancient Akrotiri site, including The largest of the Cyclades,
vivid Minoan frescoes and a Náxos was a major center of
golden ibex figurine, and the the Cycladic civilization. The
Lignos Folklore Museum in Venetians, who arrived in the
Kondohóri suburb. 13th century, built many
fortifications that still stand on
E Museum of Prehistoric Thera the island today. The combin­
Mitropóleos St. Tel 22860­23217. ation of its history and superb
Open 8am–3pm daily (Nov–Mar: beaches make Náxos an ideal The Portára gateway that overlooks Náxos
Tue–Sun). Closed main public hols. & vacation destination. town’s harbor




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474  IT AL Y AND GREECE

d Rhodes and the Dodecanese ATHENS

The Dodecanese offer a wide range of landscapes and
activities. Their hot climate and fine beaches attract many Patmos
visitors, but the islands also boast lush, fertile valleys and Kos Rhodes
wooded mountains. The Dodecanese have been subject to Rhodes town •
•
several invasions, with periods of occupation by the medieval Kárpathos Líndos
Knights of St. John, the Ottomans, and the Italians. This
checkered history is still apparent in the islands’ impressively
varied architecture and wealth of historical sites.
Locator Map

divided – were used as meeting
places for the Knights. Begun in
the 14th century in Gothic style,
they were restored by the
Italians in the early 20th century.
The Archaeological
Museum, located in the
Collachium, contain many fine
exhibits from different periods
in Rhodes’ history. Don’t miss
the knightly Villaragut
Mansion in the back garden.
In the Bourgos area, the
Mosque of Suleiman was built
to commemorate the Sultan’s
victory over the Knights in 1522.
The Palace of the Grand Masters in Rhodes town The Library of Hafız Ahmet,
which houses the chronicle of
Rhodes of St. John arrived in 1309, they the Turks’ siege of Rhodes, and
built their citadel over these the now disused public baths,
* 115,500. k 15 km (9 miles)
SW of Rhodes town. g Commercial & ancient remains. Surrounded provide further reminders of the
Kolóna harbors, Rhodes town. @ by moats and 3 km (2 miles) of town’s Turkish past.
Mandráki, Rhodes town. n walls, the Knights’ medieval
Archiepiskopou Makariou 1, Rhodes citadel forms the center of the P Palace of the Grand Masters
town (22410-44330). Old Town, which is divided into Ippotón. Tel 22413-25500. Open Apr–
the Collachium and the Oct: 8am–8pm daily: Nov–Mar: 8am–
An important center from the Bourgos. The Collachium was 3pm Tue. Closed main public hols.
6th to 3rd centuries BC, Rhodes the Knights’ quarter, while the & 7 limited.
was later part of both the Bourgos was home to the
Roman and Byzantine empires rest of the population. Rhodes New Town
before being conquered by the Dominating the Old Town is Beyond the original citadel
Knights of St. John, the order the 14th-century Palace of walls, the new town
founded in the 11th century the Grand Masters, the of Rhodes is made up of
to tend Christian pilgrims in seat of 19 Grand Masters of a number of areas. These
Jerusalem. They occupied the the Knights during two include Néa Agora (new
island from 1309 to 1522, and centuries of occupation. market), with its whimsical
their medieval walled city still The palace houses several fishmongers’ gazebo, and
dominates Rhodes town. priceless mosaics from Mandráki harbor in the
Ottoman and Italian rulers sites in Kos, as well as two eastern half of town. Close
followed, leaving their own permanent exhibitions to the harbor are the
traces of occupation. Rhodes’ about ancient and mock Crusader Gothic
rich and varied history, sandy medieval Rhodes. Government House –
beaches, and lively nightlife The medieval Street a legacy of the Italian
attract hundreds of thousands of the Knights is lined 1920s building program
of tourists each year. by the Inns of the – and the Mosque of
Tongues of the Order Murad Reis, with its
Rhodes Old Town of St. John. The Inns – graceful minaret. The
The town of Rhodes has been there was one for each north west side of town
inhabited for over 2,400 years. of the seven Tongues, The minaret of is a busy tourist center,
A city was first built here in or nationalities, into the Mosque of with lively streets and
408 BC, and when the Knights which the Order was Murad Reis popular Elli beach.
For hotels and restaurants see pp484–6 and pp487–9


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THE GREEK ISLANDS  475


of these are easily reached from
Kamári on the island’s
southwest coast. Kardámaina is
Kos’s biggest and brashest
resort, while the north-coast
beaches, such as Tigkáki, are
ideal for water sports. In spite of
tourist development, inland you
can still see remnants of Kos’s
traditional lifestyle.
Kos is a good base from
which to explore the more
northerly islands of the
Dodecanese, including Pátmos,
home to the 11th-century
Monastery of St. John.
The acropolis overlooking Líndos town on Rhodes
Western Rhodes similar distance southwest of Kárpathos
A short distance southwest of Lindos, Asklipieió village offers
Rhodes town, set on the the church of Kímisi tis * 6,000. k 17 km (11 miles) S of
beautiful green and wooded Theotókou, with vivid frescoes. Kárpathos town. @ corner of 28
hillsides of Filérimos, is Moní Oktovríou & Dimokratías, Kárpathos
Filerímou. A place of worship for T Acropolis at Líndos town. g Kárpathos town, Diáfani.
n Kárpathos town, summer only
2,400 years, this monastery has 1 km (0.5 miles) E of Líndos village. (22450-23835).
layers of history and tradition, Tel 22440-31258. Open Apr–Oct:
from Phoenician to Byzantine, 8am–8pm daily; Nov–Mar: 8am–3pm Despite an increase in tourism
Orthodox, and Catholic. Tue–Sun. Closed main public hols. & from the late 1990s onwards,
A few kilometers farther rugged Kárpathos remains
southwest, Ancient Kámeiros Kos largely unspoiled. Its capital,
is one of the best-preserved Kárpathos town, is a busy
Classical Greek cities. Its * 33,000. k 24 km (15 miles) SW of center, with hotels, cafés, and
remains include a 3rd-century Kos town. g @ Aktí Koudouriótou, restaurants around its bay.
BC Doric temple. Kos town. n Artemisías, Kos town. Nearby is the main resort of
Also worth visiting are the Amoopí, though good beaches
wine-making village of Emponas, Mainly flat and fertile, Kos is are rather distant. In addition to
and Petaloúdes, or Butterfly known as the “Floating Garden.” some magnificent beaches
Valley. Popular with walkers, this It has a wealth of archaeological northwest of the capital,
valley teems with Jersey tiger sites, Hellenistic and Roman ruins, including Lefkós and Ápella,
moths from June to September. and Byzantine and Venetian the island has places of
castles, many of which can be archaeological and historical
T Ancient Kámeiros found in Kos town. Here, the interest. Vroukoúnda has
36 km (22 miles) SW of Rhodes town. 16th-century Castle of the ancient walls and rock-cut
Open daily. Closed main public hols. Knights, the Ancient Agora, and tombs, mostly Hellenistic and
& 7 to lower sections only. the Roman remains should not Roman, while in Olympos
be missed. Most visitors come village traditional Greek life and
Eastern Rhodes for the sandy beaches. The best customs can still be observed.
Halfway along Rhodes’
sheltered east coast, Líndos
is one of the island’s most
popular resorts. A magnet for
tourists seeking sun, sea, and
sand, it is also famous for its
cliff-top acropolis overlooking
the bay. This temple site,
crowned by the 4th-century BC
Temple of Lindian Athena, was
one of the most sacred spots
in the ancient world.
A short drive from Lindos,
south of Láerma village, the
church of Moní Thárri shelters
the finest frescoes on Rhodes,
dating from 1300 to 1450. A Windmills in the traditional village of Olympos on Kárpathos




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476  IT AL Y AND GREECE

f Crete
ATHENS
Rugged mountains, sparkling seas, and ancient history combine
with the Cretans’ relaxed nature to make this island an idyllic
vacation destination. The center of the Minoan civilization
over 3,000 years ago, Crete has also been occupied by
Romans, Byzantines, Venetians, and Turks. Historic towns such
as Irákleio, Chaniá, and Réthymno, and the famous Minoan
palaces at Knossos and Phaistos, give a fascinating insight Chaniá • Irákleio
•
into some of the most important periods in Cretan history. Réthymno • Crete
•
Phaistos
Locator Map
T Palace of Knossos
5 km (3 miles) S of Irákleio.
Tel 2810-231 940. @ Open daily.
Closed main public hols. & 8
The capital of Minoan Crete,
Knossos was the largest and
most sophisticated of the
Minoan palaces on the island.
Built around 1900 BC, the
first palace of Knossos was
destroyed by an earthquake in
about 1700 BC and was soon
Irákleio’s harbor, dominated by the vast Venetian fortress completely rebuilt. The ruins
Irákleio E Irákleio Archaeological visible today are almost entirely
from this second palace. They
* 174,000. k 5 km (3 miles) E. g Museum were restored by Sir Arthur
@ n Xanthoudídou 1 (2810- Corner of Xanthoudídou & Mpofór, Evans in the early 20th century;
246298). Plateía Eleftherías. Tel 2810-279086/ although the subject of
279000. Open Apr–Oct: 8am–8pm academic controversy, his
A busy, sprawling town of daily; Nov–Mar: 11am–5pm Mon, reconstructions give one of
concrete buildings, Irákleio 8am–3pm Tue–Sun. & the best impressions of life in
nevertheless has much of interest This impressive museum Minoan Crete to be found
to the visitor. Four centuries of displays Minoan artifacts from anywhere on the island.
Venetian rule have left a rich all over Crete. Its most Highlights of a tour of the
architectural legacy, evident magnificent exhibits include a site – the focal point of which is
in the imposing 16th-century rock-crystal rhyton (drinking the vast Central Court – include
fortress overlooking the harbor, horn), and the Phaistos Disk, the replica of the Priest-King
and the elegantly-restored which was discovered at the Fresco, the Giant Pithos, one of
17th-century Loggia, a former site of the palace of Phaistos in over 100 pithoi (storage jars)
meeting place for the island’s 1903. Inscribed with pictorial unearthed at Knossos, the
nobility. Among Irákleio’s many symbols, the disk’s meaning Throne Room, believed to
churches, 13th-century Agios and origin remain a mystery. have served as a shrine, and the
Márkos, now the city’s main Among the museum’s many Royal Apartments. The original
picture gallery, and 16th- other treasures are the Snake frescoes from the palace are
century Agios Títos deserve a Goddesses, two figurines now housed in Irákleio’s
visit. Also not to be missed are dating from around 1600 BC. Archaeological Museum.
the Archaeological Museum
(see below) and the Historical
Museum, which traces the
history of Crete from early
Christian times. The heart
of the town is Plateía Eleftheríou
Venizélou, a bustling pedestrian-
ized zone of cafés and shops.
Those interested in the
beaches should head to the
package-tour resorts of Mália
and Chersónisos, just a short
drive east of the town. The South Propylon (entrance) of the Palace of Knossos
For hotels and restaurants see pp484–6 and pp487–9


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THE GREEK ISLANDS  477

Phaistos The Mosque of the Janissaries,
65 km (40 miles) SW of Irákleio. on one side of the harbor, dates
Tel 28920-42315. @ Open 8am– back to the arrival of the Turks in
8pm daily (winter: 8am–6pm). 1645, and is the oldest Ottoman
Closed main public hols. & building on Crete. The lively
covered market is an area worth
Phaistos was one of the most exploring. Nearby the
important Minoan palaces Archaeological Museum is
on Crete. In 1900 Italian-led housed in the Venetian church
excavations unearthed two of San Francesco.
palaces. Remains of the first Some 4 km (2 miles) west of
palace, constructed around Chaniá, the relatively undisturbed
1900 BC and destroyed by an beach of Agioi Apóstoloi
earthquake in 1700 BC, are still comprises two attractive coves.
visible. Most of the present
ruins, however, are of the
second palace. Phaistos was Samariá Gorge The narrow defile known as the Iron Gates
finally destroyed in the 2nd 44 km (27 miles) S of Chaniá. @ to in the Samariá Gorge
century BC by the ancient Xylóskalo. g Agía Rouméli to Sfakía Réthymno
city-state of Górtys. or Palaiochóra (via Soúgia); check time
The most impressive remains of last boat back at the outset. Open * 32,000. @ n Sofokli Venizélou
are the Grand Staircase, which May–mid-Oct: 6am–4pm daily; Apr (28310-29148).
was the main entrance to the 10–30 & Oct 16–31: if weather permits.
palace, and the Central Court. Despite tourism and modern
A few kilometers northeast Crete’s most spectacular development, Réthymno has
of Phaistos, the archaeological scenery lies along the Samariá retained much of its charm.
remains of ancient Górtys date Gorge, the longest ravine in The old quarter is rich in well-
from about 1000 BC to the late Europe. When it became a preserved Venetian and
7th century AD. national park, the inhabitants of Ottoman architecture, including
the village of Samariá moved the elegant 16th-century
Agios Nikólaos elsewhere, leaving behind the Venetian Lótzia (Loggia) and
ruined buildings and chapels
the Nerantzés Mosque, a
* 11,400. g @ n Koundoúrou 21 seen here today. Starting from converted Franciscan church
(28410-22357). ( Wed. the Xylóskalo (Wooden Stairs), that is now a concert hall. The
an 18-km- (11-mile-) trail leads huge Fortétsa was built by the
The main transport hub for the to the seaside village of Agía Venetians in the 16th century
east of the island, delightful Rouméli. A truly impressive to defend the port against both
Agios Nikólaos is a thriving sight along the route is the pirates and the Turks. Below it is
vacation center with an Sideróportes, or Iron Gates, a pretty harbor, lined with cafés
attractive port and fine beaches where the path squeezes and restaurants. Also worth
some distance east, as well as between two towering walls visiting are the Archaeological
an interesting Folk Museum and of rock, only 3 m (9 ft) apart. Museum and the Historical and
an Archaeological Museum. Upon reaching Agía Rouméli, Folk Art Museum.
A few kilometers north is walkers can take a boat to East of Réthymno, there are
the well-established resort of Sfakía, Soúgia, or Palaiochóra several resorts, while to the
Eloúnda, boasting a good range to join the road and buses west lies a 20 km (12 mile)
of accommodations plus boat back to Chaniá. stretch of uncrowded beach.
trips to Spinalónga islet.
Chaniá
* 54,000. k 16 km (10 miles) E.
g @ n Kriári 40 (28210-92943).
One of Crete’s most appealing
cities, Chaniá was ruled by the
Venetians from 1204 to 1645,
and is dotted with elegant
houses, churches, and
fortifications dating from this
period. Many of these can be
found in the Venetian quarter
around the harbor, and in the
picturesque Splántzia district. Tavernas and bars along Réthymno’s waterfront




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478  IT AL Y AND GREECE

Practical Information can stay indefinitely. The
unauthorized export of
Tourism is one of Greece’s most important industries, and as antiquities and archaeological
a consequence, visitors to the country are well catered for: artifacts from Greece is treated
transportation networks are relatively efficient, there are as a serious offence, incurring
banks and exchange facilities in all the major resorts, and hefty fines or a prison sentence.
Prescription drugs brought
telecommunications have improved dramatically in recent into the country should be
years. The country’s hot climate, together with the easy-going kept in the original container
outlook of its people, are conducive to a relaxed vacation, and with the prescription
it is usually best to adopt the philosophy sigá, sigá (slowly, information visible.
slowly). In summer, almost everything closes for a few hours
after lunch, reopening later in the day when the air cools and Personal Security
Greece comes to life again. The crime rate in Greece is low
compared with other European
countries, but it is worth taking a
When to Visit Opening Hours
few sensible precautions, such as
Tourist season in Greece – late Opening hours tend to be vague keeping all personal possessions
June to early September – is in Greece, varying from day to secure. Parts of Athens, such as
the hottest and most expensive day, season to season, and place Omonia, Keramikós, and
time to visit, as well as being to place. To avoid disappoint- Metaxourgeîo can be dangerous
very crowded. December to ment, visitors are advised to after midnight. If you have
March are the coldest and wettest confirm the opening times of anything stolen, contact either
months, with reduced seagoing sites covered in this chapter the police or the tourist police.
and air transportation facilities, once they arrive in the country. Foreign women traveling
and many hotels and restaurants All post offices and banks, and alone in Greece are usually
closed for the winter. Spring is a most stores, offices, state-run treated with respect, especially
good time to visit; there are fewer museums, and archaeological if they are dressed modestly.
tourists, and the weather and sites close on public holidays. However, hitch-hiking alone is
the countryside are at their best. Some facilities may also be not advisable.
closed on local festival days.
The main public holidays in
Tourist Information Police
Greece are January 1, March 25,
Tourist information is available Good Friday, Easter Sunday and Greece’s police are split into
in many towns and villages Monday, May 1, Whit Monday, three forces: the regular police,
throughout Greece, from December 25 and 26. the port police, and the tourist
government-run EOT offices police. The tourist police provide
(Ellinikós Organismós advice to vacationers in addition
Tourismoú), municipally Visa Requirements to carrying out normal police
and Customs
run tourist offices, the local duties. Should you suffer a
tourist police, or privately Visitors from the US, Canada, theft, lose your passport, or have
owned travel agencies. Australia, and New Zealand need cause to complain about shops,
However, visitors should only a valid passport for entry to restaurants, tour guides, or taxi
be aware that not all of the Greece (no visa is required), and drivers, you should contact
information published by the can stay for up to 90 days in a them first. Every tourist police
EOT is reliable or up-to-date. 180-day period. EU nationals office claims to have at least
one English speaker.
The Climate of Greece
ATHENS Emergency Services
On the mainland, summers
are very hot, while spring In the event of an emergency
and autumn generally bring °C/ºF 31/88 while on vacation, the
milder but wetter weather. In 22/72 22/72 appropriate numbers to call are
winter, rainfall is at its greatest 18/64 15/59 listed in the Directory opposite.
everywhere. Mountainous 11/52 12/54
6/43
regions usually get heavy
snow, but around Athens, 8 12 7 4 Health Issues
temperatures rarely drop hrs hrs hrs hrs No inoculations are required
below freezing. Throughout 23 6 51 62 for visitors to Greece. Tap water
the islands, the tendency is mm mm mm mm in Greece is generally safe to
for long, dry summers and month Apr Jul Oct Jan drink, but in remote
mild but rainy winters.
communities it is a good
precaution to check


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GREECE  479


with the locals. Jellyfish, restaurants, the service charge smallest resorts and remotest
sea urchins, and weaver fish is always included in the check, islands, and are the usual way
are potential hazards on but tips are still appreciated – of getting cash.
beach holidays. the custom is to leave between
10 and 15 percent. Taxi drivers,
hotel porters, and chamber­ Communications
Pharmacies maids do not expect a tip, but Public telephone booths are
Greek pharmacies, farmakeía, are not averse to them either. found at street junctions, though
are open from 8:30am to 2pm many fail to work and they are
Monday to Friday, but are Photography becoming steadily rarer with
usually closed in the afternoon the advent of the mobile phone.
and all day on Saturdays. In Taking photographs inside Before you leave home, make
larger towns, there is often a churches and monasteries is sure your phone has inter­
rota system to maintain a usually forbidden in Greece. national roaming; price caps
service on weekends and Inside museums, photography introduced in 2015 make this
from 5:30 to 10pm on is usually permitted, although affordable within the EU. Another
weekdays. Details are posted in flashes and tripods are often option is to buy a local pay­as­
pharmacy windows, in both not. Wherever you go, it is best you­go SIM card; of several
Greek and English. to gain permission before using providers, Cosmote has the best
a camera, as rules vary. coverage in remote areas.
Greek post offices
Facilities for the Disabled (tachydromeía) are generally
Banking and Currency
There are few facilities in open from 7:30am to 2:30pm
Greece for assisting the The Greek unit of currency was Monday to Friday; some main
disabled, so careful, advance the drachma, but since January branches close as late as 8pm
planning is essential. 2002 it has been replaced by and occasionally open for a few
the euro (see p23). hours at weekends. All post
Greek banks open from 8am offices are closed on public
Etiquette to 2:30pm Monday to Thursday, holidays. They no longer offer
Though formal attire is rarely and 8am to 2pm on Friday. exchange services, but some
needed, modest clothing Exchange facilities are also serve as sending and receiving
(trousers for men and skirts and available at travel agents and points for Western Union money
covered shoulders for women) hotels, albeit at poor rates. transfers. Smaller Greek villages
should be worn when visiting Travelers’ checks are difficult to may not have an official post
churches and monasteries. exchange and not recom­ office; its function may be
Better hotels enforce a “smart mended. Cash point machines performed by a local store with
casual” dress code for dinner. In (ATMs) are found even in the more flexible hours.
DIRECTORY
Tourist USA & Canada Ireland Emergency
Information 305 East 47th Street, Vasiléos Konstantínou 7, Numbers
New York, NY 10017. 10674 Athens. (Nationwide)
Greek National Tel 210­723 2771.
Tourist Board Tel 212­421­5777. ∑ dfa.ie/irish- Police
∑ visitgreece.gr embassy/greece Tel 100.
Embassies Ambulance
EOT in Greece: South Africa Tel 166.
Dionysíou Areopagítou Australia Kifisías 60, 15125
Maroússi.
18–20, 105 58 Athens. Thon Building, Kifisías & Tel 210­617 8020. Fire
Tel 199.
Tel 210­331 0392. Alexándras, Ampdlókipi,
11521 Athens. UK Coastguard Patrol
Australia Ploutárchou 1, Tel 108.
37–49 Pitt St, Tel 210­870 4000. 10675 Athens.
∑ greece.embassy.gov.
Sydney, NSW 2000. Tel 210­727 2600. Emergency
au/athn/home.html Numbers (Athens)
Tel 2­9241 1663. ∑ ukingreece.fco.
gov.uk
UK Canada Tourist Police
5th Floor East, Ethnikís Andistáseos 48, US Tel 171.
Vasilíssis Sofías 91,
Great Portland House, 152 31 Halándri. 10160 Athens. Doctors
4 Great Portland Street, Tel 210­727 3400. Tel 210­721 2951. Tel 1016.
London W1W 8QJ. ∑ canadainternational. ∑ athens.usembassy. 24-hour Pharmacies
Tel 020­7495 9300. gc.ca gov Tel 14944.

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480  IT AL Y AND GREECE

Travel Information Rail Travel
Greece’s rail network is
During the tourist season (late June–early September), operated by the state­owned
there are countless international flights bringing millions OSE (Organismós Sidirodrómon
of vacationers to the shores of Greece, especially from Elládos). Limited to the mainland,
the colder parts of northern Europe and North America. it is fairly skeletal by European
standards, even more so
Traveling within Greece is easy enough. While many of following the elimination of
the larger islands can be reached from the mainland by many services. Remaining
plane, there are ferry routes to even the remotest routes include Athens–
destinations. Greece’s extensive bus network serves Thessaloníki and Athens–
virtually everywhere, from the largest city to the tiniest Kalampáka (Metéora). First­ and
community. Renting a car or motorcycle is another second­class tickets are less
expensive than the equivalent
popular way of exploring the country. bus journey, but services tend
to be slower. Though more
costly, tickets for intercity
Flying to Greece
and mostly operate between express trains are worth it for
There are around 20 interna­ May and October. Tickets the time they save. OSE is
tional airports in Greece that can are sold by travel agencies scheduled for privatization
be reached directly from Europe. either as part of an all­inclusive under the terms of Greece’s
Crete, Rhodes, Kos, Santoríni, package tour or as a flight­ financial program, and its
Mýkonos, and Corfu among the only deal. continued existence is in doubt.
islands, and Athens and
Thessaloníki on the main land,
handle both charter and Domestic Flights Traveling by Bus
scheduled flights. The other Internal flights in Greece, International buses connect
international airports can only be including to or between the Greece with eastern Europe;
reached directly by charter flights. islands, are run by Aegean there are no longer any services
Direct scheduled flights Airlines, its subsidiary Olympic to northwestern Europe.
from London to Athens and Air, Crete­based Sky Express, Within Greece, the long­
Thessaloníki are operated Thessaloníki­based Astra distance bus network is
by Aegean Airlines, British Airlines, and Ryanair. Fares extensive, with buses stopping
Airways, Ryanair, and easyJet. for domestic flights, if booked at least once a day at even the
From outside Europe, all long enough in advance, can remotest destinations, and
scheduled flights to Greece cost hardly more than a ferry frequent express services on
arrive in Athens, and only a few trip to the island in question, all the major routes.
airlines offer direct flights. US or a bus journey through From Athens there are regular
Airways and Delta Air Lines the mainland. departures to all the larger
operate direct flights daily mainland towns, apart from
from the US. those in Macedonia and Thrace,
Flights from Australia are Getting Around Athens which are served by buses from
indirect, generally with one of Athens has a network of buses, Thessaloníki. Athens’ Terminal A
the gulf­state airlines, or via trolley buses, and trams, in serves Epirus, Macedonia, the
Bangkok or Singapore. addition to a metro system. Peloponnese, and the Ionian
Athens’ international airport, Buses are inexpensive, but can islands of Corfu, Kefalloniá,
Eléfthérios Venizélos, is located be very slow, as well as Lefkáda, and Zákynthos.
27 km (17 miles) northeast of the crowded. Tickets for buses and Terminal B serves most
center. There are four 24­hour trams must be purchased in destinations in central Greece,
bus services from the city advance; few períptera (street including Delphi.
to the airport: the X93 from kiosks) stock them any longer,
Kifisos intercity bus station so they are most reliably Traveling by Car
(65 mins); the X95 from Plateía obtained in metro stations.
Syntágmatos (80 mins); the X96 Tickets are valid for all means On the mainland there are
from Piraeus (90 mins); and the of urban transport (buses, express highways between
X97 from Elliniko metro station metro, and tram) and are valid Athens, Thessaloníki, Vólos,
(45 mins). Metro line 3 runs from for 70 minutes from and Pátra. These roads are
Syntagma to the airport. cancellation, allowing at least very fast, but expensive tolls are
one transfer. charged for their use. There has
Since most of the major been much upgrading of the
Charters and sights in the city center are roads on the islands, but they
Package Deals
within walking distance of one are still often poorly surfaced,
Charter flights to Greece are another, you can avoid using particularly in more
nearly all from within Europe, public transportation. remote areas.



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GREECE  481


Car rental agencies are found in
every tourist resort and major
town. Local chains can be less
expensive than international
names like Avis or Hertz; for a
long rental period it is wise to
consult consolidator sites like
comparecarrentals.co.uk or auto-
europe.co.uk/com. The car rental
agency should have an
agreement with an emergency
recovery company, such as
Express Hellas or InterAmerican,
in the event of a vehicle
breakdown. Small scooters and
motorcycles are also available
for rent in many tourist resorts. A Blue Star passenger ferry docked at the port of Piraeus
Greece has a high accident
rate by European standards; take Transport, so a journey should office near every harbor, are also
extra care when driving around. cost you the same, regardless a good source of reliable, up-to-
of which shipping company date information.
you choose. In addition to the large ferries,
Ferry Services Ferry tickets can be smaller vessels make inter-island
There are regular, year-round purchased from any dockside crossings in summer.
ferry crossings from Italy and ferry agent – most handle all
Turkey to the Greek mainland lines – or online in advance, Catamarans
and islands. though the ticket must be
Piraeus, the port of Athens, claimed (often with a service Besides conventional ferries,
is Greece’s busiest port, with charge) at a port agency. catamarans of various sizes ply
ferry routes to most islands. Advance reservations are the Argo-Saronic islands, the
Recent bankruptcies mean that advisable around major holidays Cyclades, and the Dodecanese.
there are now fewer shipping or elections, especially if you They tend to be twice as fast,
companies in operation; want a cabin. In off-season, but correspondingly expensive.
between them, Hellenic services may be reduced or They are a vast improvement
Seaways, and Blue Star cover suspended altogether. Check on their predecessors, Soviet-
most of the Aegean, with ANEK local sources or websites (www. bloc hydrofoils known locally as
and Minoan Lines serving gtp.gr is reliable) for the latest “flying dolphins”, which only
Crete. All fares except first class information before you travel. serve the Argo-Saronic islands
are set by the Ministry of The port police, who have an and the Corfu–Paxí line.
DIRECTORY
Domestic Airlines Rail Travel Car Rental Ferry and
Agencies Catamaran
Aegean Airlines OSE (Information
Tel 801-112 0000 or & Reservations) Avis Companies
210-626 1000. Sína 6, Athens. Leofóros Amalías 48,
∑ aegeanair.com Tel 14511. 10558 Athens. ANEK Lines
∑ trainose.gr Tel 210-322 4951. Aktí Kondýli 24, Piraeus.
Astra Airlines ∑ avis.com Tel 210-419 7170.
Tel 231-048 9390. Train Station
∑ astra-airlines.gr in Athens Hertz ∑ anek.gr
Laríssis station (for Syngroú 12, 11742
Olympic Air northern Greece). Ticket Athens. Tel 210-922 0102. Blue Star
Tel 801-801 0101 or windows open 5am– ∑ hertz.gr ∑ bluestarferries.gr
210-355 0500. midnight. Piraeus Port Hellenic Seaways
∑ olympicair.com
Buses Tel 14541 (ferry Tel 210-419 9000.
Ryanair departure/arrival times; ∑ hellenicseaways.gr
∑ ryanair.com Bus Terminals beware of expensive
in Athens Minoan Lines
Sky Express Terminal A: Kifisoú 100. connection charge).
Tel 801-112 8288 or Tel 210-512 4910. Lávrio Port 25is Avgoustou 17, Iraklio.
281-022 3800. Terminal B: Liosíon 260. Tel 281-022 9602.
∑ skyexpress.gr Tel 210-832 9585. Tel 229-202 6859. ∑ minoan.gr




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482  IT AL Y AND GREECE


Shopping & Entertainment Most theaters and music clubs
in the capital sell tickets
The choice of places to shop in Greece ranges from colorful, at the door on the day of the
bustling street markets, found in almost every large town, performance. A useful booking
through traditional arts and crafts shops, to the designer website is ticketservices.gr with
fashion boutiques of Athens. Entertainment is as varied; a convenient ticket pick-up
office in the stoa of Panepistimiou
visitors can try an open-air concert in the atmospheric setting 39. Tickets for the summer
of an ancient theater, watch a film at an open-air cinema, or Hellenic Festival and for
enjoy some late-night dining in a local taverna before concerts at the Mégaron
heading for a bar. With its dry, sunny climate and clear, warm Mousikís – Athens Concert Hall
seas, Greece offers countless opportunities for outdoor should be bought in advance.
activities, from snorkeling to windsurfing, sailing, and hiking. Elsewhere, your nearest
tourist office should be able
to provide information on
what is happening locally.
What to Buy For jewelry, Athens is the best
Traditional handicrafts, though place to shop. Exclusive names Entertainment Venues
often expensive, are the most include Antónis Vourákis and
genuinely Greek souvenirs. In Anagnostópoulos, on The main entertainment venues
Athens, Monastiráki and Pláka Voukourestíou. The Ilías in Athens host a wide variety
are the best places to purchase Lalaoúnis Jewelry Museum of events. As well as excellent
such items. There are also some has over 3,000 designs, productions of 19th-century
unusual antiquarian shops, inspired by Classical and other Greek and European plays, the
particularly near Plateía archaeological sources. National Theater puts on opera,
Avyssinías on Normánou, which ballet, and contemporary dance.
has dealers in old engravings The Mégaron Mousikís or
and nostalgic commercial logos. Markets Athens Concert Hall is a first-
Fans of Greek music should try Most large towns in Greece class classical and jazz concert
Zacharias, which has a large have a weekly street market venue, while the Olympia
stock of second-hand CDs and (laïkí agorá), where fresh Theater is home to the Lyrikí
vinyl, or for new stock the CD produce is sold alongside shoes, Skiní (National Opera). At the
shop at the Museum of Greek fabrics, and sundry household Dóra Strátou Dance Theater,
Popular Musical Instruments, items. In Athens, the ones on there is traditional regional
while at the fascinating Center Xenokrátous in centrally located Greek dancing nightly between
of Hellenic Tradition you can Kolonáki and on Tsámi Karatása May and September.
buy paintings, embroidery, folk in Makrygiánni take place every
art, and finely crafted ceramics. Friday. The busy Central Market Open-Air Cinemas
Some of the country’s best is excellent for food, while the
ceramics can be found in the famous weekend-morning flea and Theaters
markets and shops of Athens’ market in Monastiráki should Found in towns and cities all
northern suburb Maroúsi, and not be missed. over Greece, the outdoor
on the island of Crete. cinema is extremely popular
Brightly colored koureloúdes Food and Drink with Greeks and an experience
(rag rugs) and wall-hangings are not to be missed by anyone
produced in many Greek villages. Culinary delights to look for in visiting the country in summer.
Colorful flokáti rugs, which are Greece include honey, olives, Most movies are in English with
handwoven from sheep or goat’s olive oil, pistachios, and cheeses, Greek subtitles.
wool, are made mainly in the such as the salty feta. Also Open-air performances of
Píndos mountains, but can also worth trying are ouzo (an anise- Classical and modern drama,
be found in other parts of the flavored liquor), retsina (wine held at famous ancient
mainland and on the islands. flavored with pine resin), and archaeological sites, are an
Sold throughout Greece, the firewater tsípouro. equally popular form of
leather goods are particularly entertainment. The Herodes
noted on Crete, where the Atticus Theater hosts plays,
town of Chaniá hosts a huge Entertainment Listings as well as opera, ballet, and
and Tickets
leather market. classical music concerts,
Well-crafted copies of For detailed information on during the annual Hellenic
ancient and Byzantine Greek entertainment in Athens, try Festival (mid-June to early
art can be found in museum the weekly Athinorama, (in September). The theater at
shops in many of the major Greek only and also at Epidaurus in the Peloponnese
cities. In Pláka in Athens, athinorama.gr) or the website is the venue for the ancient
Orpheus offers good quality www.culturenow.gr (also in drama portion of the Hellenic
reproduction Byzantine icons. Greek only). Festival in July and August.




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GREECE  483


Live Greek Music combination island cruises and areas vastly increased – the best
To hear acoustic rempétika archaeological tours; and diving is at Léros, Santoríni,
music in Athens, head for Andante Travels, with more Corfu, and Mýkonos.
Taximi, Makari, Rex, or explicitly monument-focused Sailing vacations and yacht
Rempetiki Istoria, where you tours led by academics. charter are best arranged in
can also hear genuine bouzouki For specialist wildlife tours, advance through reputable UK
(Greek mandolin) music. In contact Naturetrek, Limosa operators like Sunsail or Nautilus.
smaller towns and resorts Holidays, or The Travelling Cruises on small ships which
around the country, the local Naturalist. can get into less frequented
taverna is often a good place to harbors are ideally arranged
see traditional musicians with Seafarer or Variety, while
perform while you dine. Outdoor Activities inexpensive mini-cruises and
With miles of coastline, and boat trips are best arranged at a
crystal clear seas, Greece is the local travel agent on the spot.
Special Interest Vacations perfect place to pursue water Inland, the range of leisure
Companies offering special sports. Windsurfing, kite- opportunities includes kayaking,
interest vacations include boarding, jet-skiing, and para- white-water rafting, canoeing,
Inntravel, which offers “slow sailing are all available in the and hiking. Ramblers Holidays
holidays” to Crete and the larger resorts. Snorkeling and and Explore Worldwide organize
Peloponnese; Peter Sommer scuba diving are also popular, walking holidays interspersed
Travels, which offers expert-led with the number of permitted with sailing.
DIRECTORY
Art and Crafts Theaters Live Greek Music Tel 01692-580 623.
∑ limosaholidays.
Center of Hellenic Dóra Strátou Dance Makari co.uk
Tradition Theater Zoodóchou Pigís 125 &
Mitropóleos 59 (Arcade) – Filopáppou Hill, Komninón, Athens. Naturetrek
Pandrósou 36, Filopáppou, Athens. Tel 210-645 8958. Mingledown Barn, Wolf’s
Monastiráki, Athens. Tel 210-324 4395. Rempetiki Istoria Lane, Hants, GU34 3HJ, UK.
Tel 01962-733 051.
Tel 210-321 3023.
National Theater Ippokrátous 181, ∑ naturetrek.co.uk
Nikos Xilouris Shop Agíou Konstantínou 22, Neápoli, Athens. Ramblers Holidays
Museum of Popular Greek Omónoia, Athens. Tel 210-642 4937. Box 43, Welwyn Garden
Instruments, Diogénous Tel 210-528 8100. ∑ rebetikiistoria.com City, Herts, AL8 6PQ, UK.
1–3, Pláka, Athens. Rex Tel 01707-331 133.
Tel 210-325 0198. Classical Music Panepistimíou 48, ∑ ramblersholidays.
Zacharias and Opera Omonoia, Athens. co.uk
Ifaístou 20 (stoa), Flea Lyrikí Skiní, Tel 210-381 4591. The Travelling
Market, Athens. Olympia Theater Taximi Naturalist
Tel 210-324 5035. Akadimías 59, Isávron 29, Neápoli, Capitol House, 12–13
Museum Copies Omónoia, Athens. Athens. Bridge Street, Winchester,
Tel 210-363 9919.
Tel 210-366 2100. Hants, SO23 0HL, UK.
Orpheus ∑ nationalopera.gr Special Interest Tel 01305-267 994.
Pandrósou 28, Mégaron Mousikís – Vacations Outdoor
Pláka, Athens. Athens Concert Hall Activities
Tel 210-324 5034. V Sofías & Kókkali, Andante Travels
Jewelry 11521 Athens. The Clock Tower, Unit 4, Nautilus
Oakridge Office Park,
The Watermill, 87 High
Tel 210-728 2333.
Anagnostópoulos Open-Air Southampton Road, Street, Edenbridge, Kent,
Whaddon, Salisbury,
TN8 5AU, UK.
Voukourestíou 13, SP5 3HT, UK. Tel 01732-867 445.
Kolonáki, Athens. Theaters Tel 01722-713 800. ∑ flotillasailing.co.uk
Tel 210-361 0645. Hellenic Festival ∑ andantetravels.co.uk Seafarer Cruises
Ilías Lalaoúnis Box Office Inntravel Berol House, Ashley Road,
Jewelry Museum Chatzichrístou 23, Castle Howard, York, London N17 9LJ, UK.
Karyatidon 4a, Makrygiánni. YO60 7JU, UK. Tel 020-8324 3117.
Pláka, Athens. Tel 210-928 2900. Tel 01653-617 755. ∑ swanhellenic.com
Tel 210-922 1044. Herodes Atticus ∑ inntravel.co.uk Sunsail
Antónis Vourákis Theater Limosa Holidays DST House, St Marks Hill,
Voukourestíou 4, Dionysíou Areopagítou, West End Farmhouse, Surbiton, Surrey, KT6 4BH
Kolonáki, Athens. Acropolis, Athens. Chapel Field, Stalham, Tel 210-331 0323.
Tel 210-322 1600. Tel 210-327 2000. Norfolk, NR12 9EJ, UK. ∑ sunsail.co.uk


482-483_EW_Europe.indd 483 14/07/16 10:17 am

484  GREECE

Where to Stay

MONASTIRAKI: Price Guide
Athens Arion Athens Hotel €€ Prices are based on one night’s stay in
Boutique Map B3 high season for a standard double room,
EXARCHEIA: Exarchion Hotel € Ag. Dimitrou 18, Psiri, 105 54 inclusive of service charges and taxes.
Modern Map D1 Tel 210-32 40415 € under €75
Themistokleous 55, 106 83 ∑ arionhotel.gr €€ €75 to €150
Tel 210-38 00731 A modern hotel with designer €€€ over €150
∑ exarchion.com furnishings and Japanese-
Simple but good-value accented rooms. The roof terrace PSYRRI: Athens Center
accommodations in the heart has views of the Acropolis. Square Hotel €€
of the district’s nightlife scene. Modern Map B3
PEDION AREOS: Radisson Blu Aristogitonos 15 & Athinas, 105 52
EXARCHEIA: Melia Athens €€ Park €€€ Tel 210-32 22706
Luxury Map C1 Modern ∑ athenscentersquarehotel.gr
Chalkokondyli 14, 106 77 Alexandras 10, 106 82 Located close to the sights, this
Tel 210-33 20100 Tel 210-889 4500 design-led hotel has original wall
∑ melia.com ∑ rbathenspark.com art and veneer-panelled rooms.
A superb central hotel with Lobby tree trunks and turf-like
fantastic views from its rooftop carpets convey the “park” theme PSYRRI: Fresh Hotel €€
pool and restaurant. Located here. Rooftop pool and dining. Boutique Map B3
close to the city’s main sights. Sofokleous 26, 105 52
DK Choice Tel 210-52 48511
KOLONAKI: ∑ freshhotel.gr
St. George Lycabettus €€ PLAKA: Sweet Home Hotel €€ Fresh Hotel combines minimalist
Boutique Map E3 Retro Map C4 chic with bright colors. Choose a
Kleomenous 2, 106 75 Patroou 5, 105 57 spacious executive double or
Tel 210-74 16000 Tel 210-32 29029 suite. Stylish rooftop pool and bar.
∑ sglycabettus.gr ∑ sweethomehotel.gr
The rooms at the St. George At the Sweet Home Hotel, DK Choice
are a mix of retro and modern the affable owner, Afrodite,
minimalist. Rooftop pool and has achieved a great SYNTAGMA:
two well-regarded restaurants. combination of old and new, Grande Bretagne €€€
with spiral wooden staircases, Luxury Map D4
KOUKAKI: Marble House € flat-screen TVs, and shabby- Syntagma Square, 105 64
Boutique Map B5 chic furniture. Exceptionally Tel 210-33 30000
An. Zinni 35, Acropolis, 117 41 high levels of service. ∑ grandebretagne.gr
Tel 210-92 28294 Originally built in 1846 the
∑ marblehouse.gr Grande Bretagne has always
Central but quiet family-run PLAKA: New Hotel €€€ been Athens’ most exclusive
pension, with renovated, pastel- Boutique Map C5 hotel. The rooms are lavishly
hued rooms, most with balcony. Filellinon 16, 105 57 furnished, and guests have an
Tel 210-32 73000 overwhelming choice of
MAKRYGIANNI: Hera Hotel €€ ∑ yeshotels.gr facilities, including indoor and
Boutique The design features at this outdoor pools, a spa with a gym,
Falirou 9, Koukaki, 117 42 incredible hotel include furniture and a superb rooftop restaurant.
Tel 210-92 36682 from the pre-renovation hotel as
∑ herahotel.gr installations and quirky rooms.
Well-located near the city’s main Consistently good service.
sights, the Hera has rooms with
lovely decor, plus a rooftop bar Rest of Mainland
and restaurant with great views. Greece
MAKRYGIANNI: Herodion €€€ ÁGIOS IOANNIS: Anesis Hotel €€
Boutique Map B5 Modern
Rovertou Galli 4, 117 42 Agios Ioannis Pelio, 370 12
Tel 210-92 36832 Tel 24260 31123
∑ herodion.gr ∑ hotelanesis.gr
Some rooms here have Acropolis A pleasant seaside place with
views, as does the roof garden comfortable rooms and a lovely
with its two whirlpool tubs. There terrace overlooking the sea.
is also a café/restaurant.
ANCIENT CORINTH:
MONASTIRAKI: Cecil Hotel € Jo Marinis Rooms €
Historic Map B3 Modern
Athinas 39, 105 54 Archaia Korinthos, Kórinthos, 200 07
Tel 210-32 17079 Tel 27410 31481
∑ cecilhotel.gr ∑ jorooms.com.gr
Housed in a restored 19th- Enjoy spacious rooms at this
century building, this good-value Neutral tones and fresh flowers in a double centrally located guesthouse.
hotel has tasteful en-suite rooms. room at the Hera Hotel, Athens The service is superb.

484-489_EW_Europe.indd 484 14/07/16 10:59 am

TR A VELERS ’ NEEDS  485

high ceilings, and tasteful decor.
Located on the road between
Spárti town and Mystra ruins.
OLYMPIA: Hotel Pelops €
Modern
Varela 2, 270 65
Tel 26240 22543
∑ hotelpelops.gr
A stylish hotel within walking
distance of the archaeological
sites, the Pelops offers fully
equipped rooms with balconies.
THESSALONIKI: Tourist €€
Historic
Mitropoleos 21, 546 24
Most rooms at the Hotel Pelops in Olympia have balconies with views over the hills Tel 2310 270501
∑ touristhotel.gr
DK Choice KASTRAKI: Doupiani House €€ With its parquet-floored lounges
and irregularly shaped rooms,
Boutique
AREOPOLI: Ktima On road to Metéora, 422 00 this is a popular historic hotel.
Karageorgou €€ Tel 24320 75236
Luxury ∑ doupianihouse.gr
Main St, 230 62 Hospitable owners and monolith
Tel 27330 51368 views from the front rooms mean Corfu and Ionian
∑ mani.ktimakarageorgou.gr booking is essential here. Islands
A superb complex of beautifully
decorated rooms and apart- MONEMVASIA: New Malvasia €€ CORFU: Glyfada Beach Hotel €
ments that are built in a Historic Modern
traditional style yet offer all the Kastro Monemvasias, 230 70 Glyfada Beach, Pélekas, 491 00
modern comforts for a relaxing Tel 27320 63007 Tel 26610 94257
stay. Excellent service. ∑ malvasia-hotel.gr ∑ glyfadabeachhotel.com
Each room here is different, Excellent-value, clean hotel just a
with traditional furniture, a short walk from the beach. Enjoy
DELPHI: Acropole Delphi Hotel € terrace, and sea views from some. local specialties at their taverna.
Modern
Filellinon 13, 330 54 MYKINES: Belle Helene € CORFU: Bella Venezia €€
Tel 22650 82675 Historic Historic
∑ delphi.com.gr Tsounta 15 Napoleóntos Zampeli 4, 491 00
Pleasant full-service hotel with Tel 27510 76225 Tel 26610 46500
great views over the gorge and This hotel was Schliemann’s home ∑ bellaveneziahotel.com
comfortable accommodations. while he excavated Mycenae. The Bella Venezia is housed in a
lack of en-suite bathrooms adds restored Neo-Classical mansion.
DIMITSANA: En Dimitsani €€ to the Victorian ambience. Rooms have garden or city views.
Boutique
Arcadia, 220 07 NAFPLIO: Byron € KEFALLONIA: Emelisse Hotel €€€
Tel 27950 31748 Boutique Luxury
∑ en-dimitsani.gr Plátonos 2, Plateía Agíou Spyridóna Emplisis Bay, Fiskárdhon, 280 84
This atmospheric place has an 211 00 Tel 26740 41200
interior featuring exposed stone Tel 27520 22351 ∑ emelissehotel.com
walls. Rooms offer lovely views. ∑ byronhotel.gr Cutting-edge rooms with solid
Náfplio’s original boutique hotel teak furniture and stunning sea
GYTHEIO: Gythion € and still the best. Some of the views. Caters for active clients.
Modern rooms have views or balconies.
Vasileos Pavlou 33 Peloponnese, DK Choice
232 00 NAFPLIO: Amphitryon Hotel €€€
Tel 27330 23452 Luxury ZAKYNTHOS:
∑ gythionhotel.gr Spiliadou 3–5, 211 00 Villas Cavo Marathia €€
Once a gentleman’s club, this Tel 27520 70700 Luxury
Neo-Classical building is now a ∑ amphitryon.gr Keri-Marathias 336, Keríon, 290 92
stylish hotel whose rooms This designer hotel has every Tel 26950 22120
overlook the seafront and harbor. conceivable facility and rooms ∑ villas-cavo-marathia.com
overlooking the bay. Occupying superb vantage
KARDAMYLI: Katikies Manis €€ points above the sea, the
Luxury NEOS MYSTRAS: hotel’s secluded bungalows
Main St, 240 22 Pyrgos Of Mystra €€€ are amply furnished and
Tel 21057 89320 Historic come with kitchenettes;
∑ katikiesmanis.com Manousaki 3, 231 00 some even have private
This gloriously isolated Tel 27310 20770 pools. Extras such as bed linen,
apartment-hotel is a short walk ∑ pyrgosmystra.gr towels, and room service are
away from an idyllic bay. Large, An imposing 19th-century provided. Fabulous service.
airy units, some with fireplace. mansion with period furniture,
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486  GREECE

RHODES: Spirit of the
The Cyclades Rhodes and the Knights €€€
Dodecanese Historic
MYKONOS: Alexandrídou 14, Medieval Town,
Rocabella Hotel €€ 851 00
Boutique DK Choice Tel 22410 39765
Agios Stefanos, 846 00 ∑ rhodesluxuryhotel.com
Tel 22890 28930 KOS: Grecotel All-suite inn occupying a 15th-
∑ rocabellamykonos.com Kos Royal Park €€€ century manor with Latin and
A splendid hotel with a modern Luxury/Family Oriental touches. Lovely garden.
and stylish interior, state-of-the- Agios Geórgios, Marmári, 853 00
art spa, and sweeping sea views. Tel 22420 41488
∑ grecotel.gr
MYKONOS: Cavo Tagoo €€€ This well-appointed resort Crete
Luxury behind sandy Marmári beach
500 m north of Chóra, 846 00 offers strictly all-inclusive
Tel 22890 23692 packages and large units DK Choice
∑ cavotagoo.gr pitched at families, with pools
Hillside resort with an infinity for adults and children, wind- AGIOS NIKOLAOS: St. Nicolas
pool, popular spa, good food, surfing, pedaloes, canoes, beach Bay Resort Hotel & Villas €€€
and pro-active staff. Some rooms sports, and live entertainment. Luxury
have private plunge pools. Nisí Peninsula, P.O. Box 47, 721 00
Tel 28410 90200
NAXOS: Summer Memories LAKHANIÁ BEACH: Atrium ∑ stnicolasbay.gr
Studios & Apartments €€ Prestige Thalasso Spa This magnificent complex of
Family Resort & Villas €€€ doubles, suites, and villas enjoys
Agios Geórgios beach, Flísvos district, Luxury a gorgeous seaside location.
843 00 Coast Highway, 851 09 Landscaped gardens surround
Tel 22850 24380 Tel 22440 46222 the buildings. There’s a full
∑ naxos-summer.com ∑ atriumprestige.gr water-sports program from
Great-value hotel featuring large, Facilities at this vast spa resort the private beach, and several
tastefully decorated apartments near the southern tip of Rhodes good restaurants.
with kitchenettes and balconies. include two pools, four restaur-
ants, and a wedding chapel.
SANTORINI: Atrium Villa €€ CHANIA: Hotel Amfora €€
Family RHODES: Kokkini Porta Rosa €€€ Family
East side of town, Fira, 847 00 Family Alley off Theotokopoulou 20, Old
Tel 22860 23781 Kokkini Porta, Old Town Venetian Harbor, 731 31
∑ atriumvilla.gr Tel 22410 75114 Tel 28210 93224
This small guesthouse has just ∑ kokkiniporta.com ∑ amphora.gr
four rooms, but each is comfort- There are just five suites in this This 14th-century mansion has
ably furnished and has a balcony restored medieval mansion. The tasteful rooms and a charming
with views east to the sea. owners’ attention, and the creative terrace overlooking the harbor.
breakfasts are memorable.
SANTORINI: Esperas ELOUNDA: Corali Studios
Traditional Houses €€€ RHODES: & Portobello Apartments €
Luxury Rodos Park Suites & Spa €€€ Family
West end of village, Oía, 847 02 Luxury Akti Posidonos, 720 53
Tel 22860 71088 Riga Fereou 12, 851 00 Tel 28410 41712
∑ esperas.com Tel 22410 89700 ∑ coralistudios.com
A four-star cliffside hotel offering ∑ rodospark.gr Close to the beach, this excellent
spectacular caldera views, a big All-suite hotel offering ultra- budget option has self-catering
grotto pool, excellent, well-priced modern styling, a pool, and very studios and apartments.
food, and great staff. high standards of service.
IRAKLEIO: Lato €€
Boutique
Epimenidou 15, 712 02
Tel 28102 28103
∑ lato.gr
Stay in stylish rooms with
balconies, terraces, or glassed-in
mini-conservatories.
RETHYMNO: Palazzo Vecchio
Exclusive Residence €€
Historic
Heroon Politechniou & Melissinou,
741 00
Tel 28310 35351
∑ palazzovecchio.gr
New meets old in this 15th-
century house turned into a suite
The blue-and-white color scheme at the Rocabella Hotel, Mykonos hotel. Units have kitchenettes.
Key to Price Guide see page 484
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TR A VELERS ’ NEEDS  487

Where to Eat and Drink

Price Guide
Athens Prices are based on a three-course
meal for one, with half a bottle of
EXARCHEIA: house wine, and all extra charges.
Kriti (Takis) € € under €20
Cretan Regional Map C2 €€ €20 to €40
Stoa at Veranzérou 5, 106 77 €€€ over €40
Tel 210-33 00237
Athens’ best-loved Cretan eatery, PETRALONA:
occupying various shopfronts Askimopapo €
here, serves Cretan delicacies Traditional Greek
such as apáki (cured pork) Iónon 61, Ano Petrálona, 118 51
alongside carafes of rakí. Tel 210-34 63282 Closed Mon &
Jun 15–Oct 1
DK Choice Founded in 1968, the Bohemian
“Ugly Duckling” is a short walk
KERAMIKOS: from the Dora Stratou theatre. It
Funky Gourmet €€€ does wholesome casserole
Traditional Greek dishes and vegetarian starters,
Paramythías 13 and Salaminos, paired with Límnos white or
104 35 Views over downtown Athens from the Neméa red barrel wine.
Tel 210-52 42727 first-floor dining room at Funky Gourmet
The highly acclaimed and award PSYRRI: Diporto €
winning Funky Gourmet is a MAKRYGIANNI: Strofi €€€ Traditional Greek Map B3
favourite among restaurant Traditional Greek Sokrátous 9, Central Market, 106 78
critics, so diners will need to Rovertou Galli 25, 117 42 Tel 210-32 11463 Closed Sun
book a table weeks ahead. The Tel 210-92 14130 Closed Mon Classic lunch cookshop that
head chefs have created a magni- Strofi has long been one of attracts business people, trades-
ficent menu that artfully twists Athens’ best restaurants. The men, and tourists for no-nonsense
traditional Greek themes to impeccable service is matched casserole grub and retsina. Blink
produce delicacies such as lamb by the superb selection of simple and you’ll miss this unsignposted
giouvetsi (meat with orzo pasta Greek favorites on the menu. basement venue.
and tomato sauce) and mustard Reserve a table in advance.
ice cream, each of which are SYNTAGMA: Avocado €€
paired with handpicked wines. MONASTIRAKI: Kapnikarea € Vegetarian Map D3
Musical Ouzeri Map B4 Nikis 30, 105 57
Christopoúlou 2, Corner of Ermoú, Tel 210-32 37878
KOLONAKI: Kioupi € 105 63 Perfect for those who are tired
Traditional Greek Map E3 Tel 210-32 20666 Closed summer, of meat-heavy Greek cuisine,
Plateía Kolonakíou 4, 106 73 evenings except Fri & Sat Avocado offers a tantalizing
Tel 210-36 14033 Closed Sun Platters of dishes such as sausages range of vegan and vegetarian
This 1920s basement cookshop and aubergine are priced a little fare. Dishes are served with
is great for lunch after visiting more than usual to pay the fantastic home-made bread,
nearby museums. Daily specials musicians who play here daily. and there is a good choice of
might include keftédes (meat- Outdoor tables, heated as needed. organic wines and fresh juices.
balls) and fasoláda (bean soup)
accompanied by good wine. MONASTIRAKI: Thanasis € SYNTAGMA:
Traditional Greek Map B4 Grande Bretagne Hotel Roof
MAKRYGIANNI: Smile € Mitropóleos 69, 105 55 Garden Restaurant €€€
Traditional Greek Tel 210-32 44705 Modern Mediterranean Map D4
Syngrou 24, Plateía Tsokrí, 117 42 A perennial candidate for the Syntagma Square, 105 64
Tel 210-92 18911 best purveyor of kebáb (Egyptian- Tel 210-33 30766
A fantastic budget eatery that is style beef patties) in town, Perched atop the luxury Grande
considered one of the best in Thanasis is always packed. No Bretagne Hotel, this stylish
Athens. Smile is a great place to prior bookings, so be prepared to rooftop restaurant boasts both
sample Greek staples such as join the crowds waiting in line. fabulous food and glorious views
kebabs, moussaka, spinach pies, of Athens and the Acropolis.
and gyros. Shaded outdoor MONASTIRAKI:
seating and friendly service. Café Avissynia €€ THISEIO: Kuzina €
Traditional Greek Map B4 Mediterranean Map A4
MAKRYGIANNI: Mani-Mani €€ Kynéttou 7, off Plateía Avissynías, Adrianou 9, 105 55
Creative Greek Map C5 105 55 Tel 210-32 40133
Falírou 10, 117 42 Tel 210-32 11704 Closed Mon This increasingly popular
Tel 210-92 18180 Come here for delicious platters restaurant serves quirky
Occupying a stylish 1920s house, such as mussel pilaf and baked interpretations of traditional
Mani-Mani’s fare has (as the feta. Upstairs seating is always Greek cuisine, such as risotto
name suggests) a marked packed at weekend lunchtimes with feta cheese and Cretan
Peloponnesian tendency, with and Friday evenings, when an smoked pork. There is also an art
Messenian streaky pork and accordionist and a singer gallery and a rooftop terrace with
talagáni cheese on the menu. entertain diners. stunning views of the Acropolis.
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488  GREECE

CORFU: The Old School €€
Rest of Mainland Traditional Greek
Greece Kassiópi old port, 491 00
Tel 26630 81211 Closed Nov–Apr
GYTHEIO: Saga €€ The go-to place in this resort for
Seafood seafood, especially octopus and
Tzanni Tzanetáki, 232 00 garlic-sauce mussels; also meat
Tel 27330-23220 dishes like pork kótsi (hock). Large
This pleasant restaurant is a great salads, thick dips, and local
place for sampling fresh fish, with microbrew beers are on offer too.
a wide selection, including several
types of sea bream. Also try the KEFALLONIA: Xouras €
charcoal-grilled octopus. Traditional Greek
Petaní Beach, northwest of Lixoúri
DK Choice Tel 26710 87128
Xouras is a surprisingly
KASTRAKI: Taverna affordable family-run taverna.
Paradisos €€ The menu includes all the
Traditional Greek traditional Greek favorites, plus
Kastraki main street, 422 00 a few Kefallonian specialties.
Tel 24320 22723 Delicious surf-and-turf skewer at El Correo
The best all-round taverna in Cocina Argentina, Thessaloniki DK Choice
town serves excellent kokorétsi
(offal roulade) or biftéki from the THESSALONIKI: KEFALLONIA: Platanos €€
grill, moussakás, and maybe Nea Diagonios €€ Grill
ravaní (sponge cake) for dessert, Traditional Greek Mid-village, Asos
accompanied by local wines. Nikoláou Plastíra 89, 551 32 Tel 26740 51381 Closed Nov–Mar
Warm, friendly atmosphere. Tel 2310 029085 What one loses in location one
This is the place to try gains in high-quality roast
soutzoukakia (meat balls baked suckling pig (order in advance),
MONEMVASIA: Skorpiós € under a sauce) and gyros, their lamb, and fish. There’s plenty of
Traditional Greek signature dishes. The outdoor choice for vegetarians too,
South coast rd, Géfyra district, 230 70 tables have sea views and the either in cooked dishes or as
Tel 27320 62090 service is great. salads, plus cheese recipes.
Head to Skorpiós for tasty meze
like tzatzíki and tyrokafterí (spicy THESSALONIKI:
cheese dip), and simple small El Correo Cocina Argentina €€€ ZAKYNTHOS:
fish like marinated gávros and Argentinian Essence Restaurant €€€
atherína. Also serves good wine. Katouni 6, 546 25 Traditional Greek
Tel 23105 06506 Kalamáki, back road to Zákynthos
NAFPLIO: Aiolo € Steak lovers should look no Town
Traditional Greek further: El Correo in the Bristol Tel 6978 535232 Closed Mon & Tue
Vasilíssi Olgas 30, 211 00 Hotel serves the best steaks in the Serving five-star cuisine prepared
Tel 27520 28828 city, as well as mouthwatering by its owner, a former head chef
Busy taverna with a meat-plus- desserts. Vintage decor and on a cruise ship, Essence is
mezédes menu, inexpensive wine attentive service. considered one of Kalamaki’s
or tsípouro (anise-free spirit), and best restaurants. The themed
an eclectic decor. Booking ahead menus change through the year.
during the Epidaurus Festival.
Corfu and the
NAFPLIO: 3Sixty €€€ Ionian Islands
International The Cyclades
Papanikolaou 26, Palaio Nafplio CORFU: Rouvas €
Tel 27505 00501 Traditional Greek MYKONOS: Joanna’s Niko’s €
Extraordinarily stylish spot within Stamatiou Dessýla 13, Pórta Riála, Traditional Greek
a restored Neo-Classical building. 491 00 Megáli Ammos Beach, 846 00
It serves a lovely selection of Tel 26610 31182 Closed Sun & Tel 22890 24521
international dishes and local evenings Unpretentious, efficient taverna
wines, and it transforms into a Going since 1936, this casserole- doing moreish mushroom dishes,
hip club at night. dish specialist is where Corfiots onion pie, country sausages, and
have lunch after work or shopping. chórta (spinach salad), plus a
THESSALONIKI: To Meteoro Signature dishes include surprising range of puddings.
Vima tis Garidas € moussakás and pastítdsio. There’s
Traditional Ouzeri a brisk takeaway trade too. MYKONOS: Ma’ereio
Vasiléos Irakleíou 33, Modiano Restaurant €€
Market, 546 24 CORFU: Bacchus/Vakhos €€ Traditional Greek
Tel 23102 79867 Seafood Kalogéra 16, Chóra, 846 00
The name means “the mid-air South end of beach, Mesongí, 49080 Tel 22890 28825
step of the shrimp” though it is Tel 26610 28825 Mykonian flavours inform the
also known as Aggelopoulos This superbly set taverna prides menu at this cozy bistro (booking
after the owner. It is one of the itself on serving fresh, local fish suggested), known for its loúza
best of its type in town, with such as prawns, small red mullet, (cured pork-loin), kopanistí (soft
fresh seafood mezédes. and hatchling kalamári. cheese), and garlic mushrooms.
Key to Price Guide see page 487
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TR A VELERS ’ NEEDS  489

NAXOS: Axiotissa €€ KOS: Ambavris € such as cuttlefish-ink risotto,
Creative Greek Traditional Taverna haricot beans under carob syrup,
Km 18 of Chóra–Alykó road, near Ampávris hamlet, 800 m south of Kos or lamb’s liver with chili.
Glyfáda Town, 853 00
Tel 22850 75107 Closed Nov–Mar Tel 22420 25696 Closed mid-Oct–
Organic ingredients feature in May; lunchtime
unusual dishes such as rocket Well-loved farmhouse-courtyard Crete
and xinomyzíthra (tart soft taverna where a mezédes
cheese) salad, aubergine-almond medley might include lamb CHANIA: Ta Halkina €
bake, and goat or rabbit stew. meatballs in ouzo sauce, husked Cretan Musical Rakadiko
beans with garlic, snails, pinigoúri Aktí Tompázi 29–30, Old Port
DK Choice (bulgur), pikhtí (brawn), spicy Tel 28210 41570
One of the very few good-value
loukánika, fáva purée, and stuffed
SANTORINI: Metaxy Mas €€ squash blossoms. old port spots, excelling at Cretan
Cretan/Cycladic Fusion snacks like aubergine roulade
Exo Goniá, 100 m below top KOS: O Makis €€ and rosemary snails. Live music
church, 847 00 Seafood several nights weekly.
Tel 22860 31323 Mastichári, 853 02
West Cretan staples like píttes, Tel 22420 59061 DK Choice
apáki and stamnagáthi greens O Makis offers some of the
meet local fáva (split yellow-pea freshest and least expensive fish CHANIA: Dounias €€
mash) and white aubergine on Kos, with salads and dips. A Traditional Greek
recipes. The yogurt-sauce lamb basic appearance and oblique Main Rd, Drakona, 731 00
on bulgur wheat is hard to beat. sea views at best mean relatively Tel 28210 65083
Dine alfresco, on terraces few tourists. A trip to this very special
gazing out to Anáfi islet, or restaurant, hidden away high
inside the old vaulted premises. RHODES: Mezes € up in the hills, is worth the
Ouzeri effort. The owner spent years
Aktí Kanári 9, Psaropoúla, revitalizing the local village
SANTORINI: Roka €€ new town, 851 00 economy, and all the dishes
Creative Greek Tel 22410 27962 are made from organic, local
Northern edge, Oía, 847 02 Starters like chickpea stew, ingredients using traditional
Tel 22860 71896 Closed Nov–Mar breaded mastéllo cheese from recipes and cooking techniques.
Local vegetables appear in Chíos, or lahmatzoún (Armenian
starters like crustless courgette pizza) make a filling meal, and
pie and tomato fritters. Mains are seafood mains are excellent. ELOUNDA: Ferryman €€
relatively pricy. Do leave room for Traditional Greek
the chocolate soufflé dessert. RHODES: Marco Polo Café €€ Aktí Oloúntos, 720 53
Charming seating in and around Creative Greek Tel 28410 41230
an old house. Agíou Fanouríou 42, Old Town, Family-run restaurant with tables
851 00 right at the water’s edge. It serves
Tel 22410 25562 Closed mid-Oct– large portions of top-quality
early Apr Greek food and has an excellent
Rhodes and the A magical place with an orchard- wine list.
Dodecanese courtyard setting. It serves subtle
recipes with a seafood bias and IRAKLEIO: Avli tou Devkaliona €
KARPATHOS: decadent puddings made by the Cretan
La Gorgona (Gabriella’s) €€ best Italian dessert chef in town. Lisimáhou Kalokerinoú 8, 712 02
Greek/Italian Fusion Tel 2810 244215 Closed lunch; Sun
Diafáni waterfront, far south end RHODES: Mavrikos €€€ An always-busy favorite where
Tel 22450 51509 Closed Nov–Mar Creative Greek small starter plates can make a
A friendly welcome brings diners Main fountain square, Lindos, 851 07 meal: fluffy keftedákia and even
here from breakfast until late. Tel 2810 80240 volví (pickled hyacinth bulbs).
Dishes include local noodles in Founded in 1933, this cutting-
gorgonzola sauce, aubergine edge restaurant creatively fuses IRAKLEIO:
dishes, and homemade desserts. Mediterranean flavors in dishes Ippokambos €€
Ouzeri
Sofokli Venizelou 3, 713 02
Tel 2810 80240
Go early to beat the crowds, as
you can’t book here. Excellent
mezédes, fair-priced seafood,
good wine, and cheerful service.
RETHYMNO: Ta Dyo Ro €
Greek Fusion
Pánou Koronéou 28, 741 00
Tel 6936 500892 Closed Sun
This wine-and-cooking shop
delights diners with superior
meatballs and cuttlefish stewed
with fennel. Organic beers from a
The homely interior of Mavrikos in Rhodes local microbrewery are on offer.
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GERMANY,

AUSTRIA, AND


SWITZERLAND





Germany, Austria, and
Switzerland at a Glance 492–493
Germany 494–551
Austria 552–575

Switzerland 576–595















































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492  GERM AN Y , A USTRIA , AND SWITZERLAND


Germany, Austria, and
Switzerland at a Glance
Kiel
Europe’s three main German-speaking countries occupy
a broad swathe of Europe stretching from the Alps to the Lübeck Rostock
North Sea and the Baltic. Germany has many great cities,
the former capitals of the small states that made up Hamburg
Germany under the Holy Roman Empire. It also has
beautiful countryside, rivers, and forests. Austria’s main
attractions are the former imperial capital Vienna, the Bremen
river Danube, and its mountains. More than half of
Switzerland, which also has important French- and Hanover Potsdam Berlin
Italian-speaking regions, is mountainous, dominated
by its permanently snow-capped Alpine peaks. Münster Magdeburg


Essen Dortmund Leipzig
Kassel
Düsseldorf Dresden
Cologne GERMANY Chemnitz
(see pp494–551)
Koblenz
Frankfurt
am Main
Bayreuth
Trier Mainz
Würzburg
Nuremberg
The Rhine Valley (see pp530–31) attracts hordes Stuttgart
of visitors in summer, drawn by the beautiful
scenery, medieval and mock-medieval castles, Linz
and Germany’s finest white wines. You can either Ulm
tour by car or take a river cruise from cities such Freiburg Munich Vienna
as Mainz and Koblenz. im Breisgau
Salzburg
Basel
Innsbruck AUSTRIA
Zürich (see pp552–75) Graz
Bern
SWITZERLAND Klagenfurt
Lausanne (see pp576–95)
Geneva






The Swiss Alps (see pp583–8) are a popular
destination all year round: in winter for the
skiing and other winter sports, in summer
for the excellent walking or simply for the
crisp, clean air and unrivaled scenery.

0 km 100
0 miles 100
The Schreckhorn looming large over a valley in the Bernese Alps, Switzerland



492-493_EW_Europe.indd 492 14/07/16 10:10 am

A T A GLANCE  493






Kiel
Rostock
Lübeck
Hamburg
Locator Map
Bremen

Potsdam Berlin Berlin (see pp500–513), since
Hanover 1990 once more the capital of a
united Germany, combines relics
Magdeburg
Münster of its imperial past, such as the
Berliner Dom, with modern
landmarks such as the towering
Essen Dortmund Leipzig Fernsehturm.
Kassel
Düsseldorf Dresden
Cologne GERMANY Chemnitz
(see pp494–551)
Koblenz
Frankfurt Munich (see pp518–26) is the cultural capital
am Main of southern Germany. It owes many of its
Bayreuth great buildings and art collections to the
Trier Mainz
Würzburg kings of Bavaria. The city is also remarkable
for its 18th-century churches, such as the
astonishingly ornate Asamkirche.
Nuremberg
Stuttgart
Linz
Ulm
Vienna
Freiburg Munich
im Breisgau
Salzburg
Basel
Innsbruck AUSTRIA
Zürich (see pp552–75) Graz
Bern
SWITZERLAND Klagenfurt
Lausanne (see pp576–95)
Geneva








Vienna (see pp556–65) was largely the the creation
of the 18th- and 19th-century Habsburg emperors.
More modern landmarks include the ferris wheel
Salzburg (see pp568–9) trades on the legacy in the Prater funfair, immortalized in The Third Man,
of Mozart, its most famous son, and stages the 1949 film starring Orson Welles.
one of the world’s great music festivals.
It also boasts a rich architectural heritage
from the prince-archbishops who ruled
the city from 1278 to 1816.




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GERM AN Y , A USTRIA , AND SWITZERLAND  495

GERMANY


By reputation the Germans are a hard-working, efficient, competitive people
and this is borne out by their recent economic success. However, Germany’s
turbulent, divided past and the centuries when it was a patchwork of many tiny
states mean that there are profound regional differences, apparent in a wealth
of fascinating historical sights and colorful local traditions.


Thanks initially to American aid, industry Mainz and Cologne. However, the country
and commerce boomed in West Germany has much more to offer in the way of
following World War II. This so-called scenery, especially its forests, heaths, and
Wirtschaftswunder (economic miracle) mountains. In the far south, the Alps are
made West Germany a dominant member the major attraction, especially around
of the European Economic Community Lake Constance (the Bodensee), the large
(now the European Union). Demand for lake that borders Austria and Switzerland.
labor led to reliance on migrant workers or
Gastarbeiter (guest workers). As a result, History
over 7 million immigrants now live in Germanic tribes became established in
Germany, the largest number coming from the region sometime during the 1st
Turkey, but many too from Italy, Greece, millennium BC. They clashed with the
and increasingly the former Yugoslavia. Romans, defeating them in AD 9 at the
In the manufacturing city of Stuttgart, Teutoburger forest. Thereafter, the Romans
one inhabitant in three is an immigrant. fixed their frontier along the Rhine and the
Despite its many industrial cities and a Danube. Although relations were often
population of over 80 million, Germany hostile, the Goths and other Germanic
is large enough to also possess a great tribes traded and made alliances with
variety of attractive rural landscapes. For Rome, and as the Roman Empire
many, the Rhine epitomizes Germany, collapsed, these peoples carved out
especially the romantic stretch between kingdoms of their own.


























The dome of Berlin’s Reichstag – home to the Bundestag (Federal Parliament)
The Frauenkirche Lutheran church illuminated in the early evening in Dresden, Germany



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496  GERM AN Y , A USTRIA , AND SWITZERLAND

The people who eventually inherited the who should grant lands, appoint bishops,
largest kingdom were the Franks, who and collect revenues. Each would try to
conquered France and in the early 9th bribe the Electors (Kurfürsten) – princes
century, under Charlemagne, subdued and bishops who chose the emperor.
most of the German tribes, including The role of the Electors was clarified
the Saxons, Swabians, and in the Golden Bull issued by
Bavarians. The pope gave his Emperor Charles IV in 1356,
blessing to Charlemagne’s but by the 16th century, the
overlord-ship, thus creating position had become the
the Holy Roman Empire. more or less hereditary right
After Charlemagne, the of the Austrian Habsburgs.
German kingdom became The power of the church
separated from the rest of the created many problems and
empire. The next strong German it was no surprise that the
ruler was the Saxon Otto I, who Frederick II (the Great), King of Reformation began in
increased his power further after Prussia (1740–86) Germany in 1517 with
his defeat of the Magyars in 955. Martin Luther’s 95 Theses pointing out
The Middle Ages saw the development of the abuses of the clergy. In the ensuing
a complicated feudal system with hundreds wars of religion, princes saw a chance to
of dukedoms, counties, and ecclesiastical increase their lands at the expense of the
estates owing allegiance to the German Church. The Peace of Augsburg in 1555
emperor, as well as free “imperial cities.” established the principle cuius regio eius
In the 11th and 12th centuries, popes and religio – each state followed the religion
emperors joined in a fierce struggle over of its ruler. In the 17th century, religious
differences were again a major factor in
KEY DATES IN GERMAN HISTORY the Thirty Years’ War. Other countries, such
5th century AD Germanic peoples overrun large as France and Sweden, joined the conflict,
parts of Roman Empire which laid waste most of Germany.
c.750 Mission of St. Boniface to Germany In the 17th and 18th centuries Germany
843 Charlemagne’s empire divided remained a patchwork of small states,
962 Otto I crowned emperor theoretically still part of the Habsburg
1077 Pope Gregory VII and Emperor Heinrich IV clash Empire. However, Prussia gradually
over investiture of bishops became a power to rival the Habsburgs.
13th century North German Hanseatic League starts During the Enlightenment and Romantic
to dominate trade in Baltic region
1356 Golden Bull establishes role of Electors periods, German literature found its voice,
especially in the dramas of Goethe and
1517 Martin Luther attaches his 95 Theses to the door
of a church in Wittenberg Schiller, and Napoleon’s invasion of
1555 Peace of Augsburg ends religious wars Germany sparked ideas of nationalism.
1618–48 Germany ravaged by Thirty Years’ War In the mid-19th century, it was Prussia
1740–86 Reign of Frederick the Great that assumed the leadership of Germany
1806 Napoleon abolishes Holy Roman Empire through the skilful politics of Otto von
1871 German Empire proclaimed Bismarck, the Prussian chancellor.
1914–18 World War I After the Prussians had defeated the
1933 End of Weimar Republic; Hitler comes to power Austrians in 1866 and the French in 1870,
1939–45 World War II: after Germany’s defeat, country the Second German Reich was declared
divided into West and East with the Prussian King as Kaiser Wilhelm I.
1990 Reunification of Germany Wilhelm’s grandson Wilhelm II had great
2002 Germany joins single European currency ambitions for the new empire, and rivalry
2005 First female chancellor, Angela Merkel, is elected with Britain, France, and Russia plunged
2014 Minimum wage is set for the first time in Germany
Europe into World War I. The humiliation




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GERM AN Y  497

of defeat and the terms of the Treaty of
Versailles (1919) left Germany in economic
chaos. The Weimar Republic struggled on
until 1933 when Hitler seized power. His
nationalist policies appealed to a
demoralized people, but his territorial
ambitions led the country into World
War II and a second defeat.
Despite the atrocities committed by the
Nazis, the Germans were soon forgiven by
both America and Russia as they divided Celebrating the fall of the Berlin Wall in 1989
the country in such a way that it became Of all the arts, it is to classical music
the theater for the Cold War between that Germany has made the greatest
East and West. The Berlin Wall, erected contribution, Johann Sebastian Bach
in 1961 to stop East Germans fleeing to from the Baroque period and Ludwig
the West, became the symbol of an era. van Beethoven from the Classical period
Its fall in 1989 was the start of the being perhaps the two most influential
process of reunification. figures. In the 19th century, poems by
Modern Germany is a federal country, Goethe, Schiller, and others were set to
with each Land (state) electing its own music by composers Robert Schumann,
parliament. Regional differences due to Johannes Brahms, and Hugo Wolf.
Germany’s checkered history are still much Germany has also produced many of
in evidence, the Catholic south being the world’s most influential philosophers:
much more conservative than the north. from Immanuel Kant (1724–1804), father
Differences between the former West of modern philosophy, to Karl Marx
Germany and the old DDR (East Germany) (1818–83), founder of the 20th century’s
are also very visible. The East suffers from most potent political ideology.
high unemployment and its people tend
to be suspicious of the motives of the West Modern Life
Germans, despite all the money poured The German economy tends to be
into the region to equalize living standards. dominated by long-established giants
such as Siemens in the electrical and
Culture and the Arts electronic sectors, Volkswagen and
Germany is rich in legends and sagas, BMW in cars, and BASF in chemicals.
such as the tale of Siegfried told in the Despite the continuing success of
epic poem the Nibelungenlied, written German industry and banking,
down around 1200. It has been reworked and the people’s reputation for
many times, notably in Richard Wagner’s hard work, the Germans actually enjoy
great Ring opera cycle. longer annual holidays and spend more
money on foreign travel than any
other European nation. When at
home, they are enthusiastic
participants in many sports, and
have enjoyed great success in
recent years at football, motor
racing, and tennis. They also enjoy
gregarious public merrymaking,
for example at Fasching (carnival)
and the Oktoberfest, Munich’s
Munich’s Olympic Stadium, built for the 1972 Olympic Games annual beer festival.




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498  GERM AN Y , A USTRIA , AND SWITZERLAND

Exploring Germany
Visitors in search of classical German landscapes flock to the Black DENMARK Gothenburg, St Petersburg,
Ventspils
Klaipeda, Oslo
Rønne,
Forest, the Rhine Valley, and the Bavarian Alps. The attractive Trelleborg, Klaipeda
Helsinki
German countryside is easily accessed thanks to the best road Baltic Sea
network in Europe. Of the cities, the most popular destinations A7 Sassnitz
are the capital Berlin, a vibrant metropolis in a state of Puttgarden
transition since reunification in 1990, and Munich, the Kiel 105 Stralsund
historic former capital of the Kingdom of Bavaria. East Rostock A20
Germany, now open for tourism, has many attractions A23 Lübeck
to draw visitors – particularly the city of Dresden, A19 96
rebuilt after World War II. Bremerhaven Schwerin
A24
A31 A27 Hamburg
Sights at a Glance A28 A29 Koszalin
1 Berlin pp500–513 A1
2 Dresden Groningen Ems Bremen Oder
3 Leipzig A7 A24 A11
4 Weimar
5 Bayreuth Weser Elbe 189 BERLIN POLAND
6 Bamberg THE A1 Hanover Potsdam A12
7 Würzburg NETHERLANDS (Hannover) A2 A2 Poznan
A30
8 Rothenburg ob der Tauber Amsterdam Osnabrück Braunschweig A13
9 Nuremberg A31 Bielefeld Magdeburg A9
0 Munich pp518–25 Münster A2
q Passau A3 G E R M A N Y Cottbus A15 Wroclaw
w Neuschwanstein A57 Essen Dortmund A14
e Lake Constance Rotterdam Duisburg A44 A7 Halle A13
r Freiburg im Breisgau A1 Kassel Leipzig A4
A14
t Black Forest Düsseldorf Meissen Dresden
y Stuttgart Brussels A46 A61 A45 A4 Erfurt
u Heidelberg A4 Cologne (Köln)
i Trier Aachen Weimar Chemnitz A17
o Mosel Valley Bonn A5 Prague
p Mainz BELGIUM Maria A3 4 A72
a Rhine Valley Laach Koblenz A71 A73 A9
s Koblenz Rhine Frankfurt am Main CZECH REPUBLIC
d Frankfurt am Main Mosel Valley Wiesbaden
f Bonn Valley A61 A3 A70 Bamberg Bayreuth
g Cologne pp533–5 LUXEMBOURG Trier Mainz Würzburg
h Münster Prague
j Hanover A6 Rothenburg ob
der Tauber
k Bremen Saarbrücken Mannheim Neckar Nuremberg
(Nürnberg)
l Hamburg Heidelberg A3
z Lübeck Rhein A9
Paris
FRANCE Regensburg
Karlsruhe Stuttgart
Donau A92 Passau
A8
Black Forest Tübingen Ulm Augsburg
(Schwarzwald) A81
12
A7 Linz
A96 Munich (München)
Freiburg im A95 A8 Salzburg
Breisgau A8
Dijon Konstanz
Neuschwanstein
Lake Constance Garmisch
Basel
(Bodensee)
SWITZERLAND Innsbruck AUSTRIA
Wooded landscape of the Black Forest region
For hotels and restaurants see pp546–8 and pp549–51
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