(DK Eyewitness) Travel Guide - Europe

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VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
Practical Information
Piazza del Duomo.
Tel 055-230 28 85.
Open Mon–Sat, Sun pm.
. Dome Closed religious hols.
Brunelleschi’s revolutionary 7 Crypt: Open Mon–Sat. &
achievement was to build the Dome: Open daily. &
largest dome of its time Campanile: Open daily. &
without scaffolding. As you Baptistry: Open pm Mon–Sat;
climb the 463 steps to Sun am. All buildings Closed Jan
the top, you can see 1 & religious hols. &
∑ ilgrandemuseodelduomo.it
how an inner shell
provides a platform Transport
for the timbers @ 1, 6, 14, 17, 23.
that support the
outer shell.















Chapels at the East End
The three apses each house
five chapels and are crowned
by a miniature copy of the
dome. The 15th-century
stained glass is by Lorenzo
Ghiberti and other artists.



Entrance to steps
to the dome

Marble Pavement
As you climb up to the dome, you can see that
the 16th-century marble pavement, designed
in part by Baccio d’Agnelo, is laid out as a maze.
KEY
1 The east doors, known as 3 The Neo-Gothic marble facade 7 Bricks of varying size were
the “Gate of Paradise” (1424–52), echoes the style of Giotto’s camp- set in a self- supporting herring-
were made by Ghiberti. While anile, but was added in 1871–87. bone pattern – a technique
replicas adorn the Baptistry, Brunelleschi copied from the
the originals can be found in 4 Gothic windows Pantheon in Rome.
the Duomo museum. 5 The top of the dome offers 8 The octagonal marble
spectacular views over the city.
2 The Baptistry doors sanctuary around the High
demonstrate the artistic ideas that 6 Last Judgment frescoes Altar was skilfully decorated by
led to the Renaissance. by Vasari Baccio Bandinelli.





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6 Bargello Of the church’s many chapels,
the most famous is the Bardi
Via del Proconsolo 4. Tel 055-238 86 Chapel, decorated by Giotto
06. @ A, 14. Open daily. Closed 1st,
3rd & 5th Mon and 2nd & 4th Sun of with frescoes of the life of St.
each month, Jan 1, May 1, Dec 25. & Francis (1315–23). The Peruzzi
7 ∑ polomuseale.firenze.it Chapel houses further Giotto
frescoes. Gaddi’s 1338 fresco
Florence’s second-ranking in the Baroncelli Chapel of an
museum after the Uffizi, the angel appearing to sleeping
Bargello houses Italy’s finest shepherds is notable as the first
collection of Renaissance true night scene in Western art.
sculpture and some superb In the cloister alongside the
Mannerist bronzes. Begun in church is Brunelleschi’s Cappella
1255, the fortress-like building de’ Pazzi (Pazzi Chapel), a
was initially the town hall but masterpiece of Renaissance
later home to the chief of police architecture. The delicate gray
(the Bargello). The renovated stonework of the domed
building opened as one of Italy’s chapel is set off by white plaster,
first national museums in 1865. Gaddi’s night scene fresco in the Baroncelli which is inset with terra-cotta
The key exhibits range over Chapel, Santa Croce roundels of the Evangelists by
three floors, beginning with the Luca della Robbia.
Michelangelo Room. Here ceramics, silverware, and other
visitors can admire Bacchus objets d’art. The Salone del 8 Piazza della
(1497), the sculptor’s first large Camino on the second floor
free-standing work, a delicate holds the finest collection Signoria
circular relief depicting of small bronzes in Italy. @ A, B.
the Madonna and Benvenuto Cellini (1500–71)
Child (1503–5), and is among the artists featured. Piazza della Signoria has been at
Brutus (1539–40), the heart of Florence’s political
his only known 7 Santa Croce and social life for centuries.
portrait bust. Citizens were once summoned
Among other Piazza di Santa Croce. Tel 055-246 61 to public meetings here, and
sculptors’ 05. @ C, 14, 23. Open daily (Sun: pm the square’s statues celebrate
works in the only). & 7 ∑ santacroceopera.it events in the city’s history. That
same room is of Grand Duke Cosimo I (1595)
Mercury (1564), The Gothic church of Santa by Giambologna commemorates
Giambologna’s Croce (1294) contains the
famous bronze. tombs and monuments of
Across the many famous Florentines,
courtyard, two among them Galileo, Michel-
more rooms angelo, and Machiavelli, as well
contain exterior as radiant early 14th- century
sculptures frescoes by Giotto and his
Donatello’s statue of removed from gifted pupil, Taddeo Gaddi.
David in the sites around In 1842 the Neo-Gothic
Bargello the city and campanile of Santa Croce was
an external added, and the facade in 1863.
staircase leads In the Basilica, Rossellino’s
to a first-floor collection of effigy (1447) of Leonardo
bronze birds by Giambologna. Bruni, the great Humanist
To the right, the Salone del depicted in serene old age, is a
Consiglio Generale contains triumph of realistic portraiture.
the cream of the museum’s Close by it is the 15th-century
Early Renaissance sculpture, Annunciation by Donatello.
including Donatello’s heroic The remainder of the monastic
St George (1416) and his buildings scattered around
androgynous David (c.1430). the cloister form a museum
Restored in 2008, it is famous as of religious painting and
the first free-standing nude by sculpture. The museum
a Western artist since antiquity. houses Cimabue’s Crucifixion,
Beyond the Salone, the a 13th-century masterpiece
Bargello’s emphasis shifts to damaged in the flood of 1966,
the applied arts, with room and Gaddi’s magnificent
after room devoted to rugs, Last Supper (c.1355–60). Statue of Cosimo I in Piazza della Signoria
For hotels and restaurants see pp438–40 and pp441–3


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the man who subjugated all
Tuscany, while Ammannati’s
Neptune Fountain honors Tuscan
naval victories. Michelangelo’s
original David stood here until
1873, when it was replaced by a
copy. Donatello’s original statue
of the heraldic lion of Florence,
known as the Marzocco, is now
in the Bargello.
Other notable statues include
Cellini’s bronze Perseus, and The
Rape of the Sabine Women by
Giambologna, carved from a
single block of marble.
Painting of Penelope in Eleonora’s rooms in the Palazzo Vecchio
scenes of virtuous women. (Academy for Experimentation),
Highlights of the palace include founded in memory of Galileo
the paintings by Il Bronzino in by Grand Duke Ferdinand II
the Cappella di Eleonora and in 1657.
the loggia, which has wonderful Some of the finest exhibits
views over the city. The Sala dei include early maps, antique
Gigli (Room of Lilies), contains microscopes, astrolabes, and
frescoes of Roman heroes and barometers. Of equal interest
Donatello’s Judith and Holofernes. are the huge 16th- and 17th-
There is also a Children’s century globes illustrating the
Museum, with story-telling motion of the planets and stars.
sessions and tours in various Be sure to see Lopo Homem’s
languages. One tour takes in 16th-century map of the world,
formerly secret stairways, showing the newly charted
The Putto fountain in Vasari’s courtyard, at hidden passages, and attics. coasts of the Americas, and the
the Palazzo Vecchio nautical instruments invented
9 Palazzo Vecchio 0 Museo di Storia by Sir Robert Dudley, an
Elizabethan marine engineer
Piazza della Signoria. Tel 055-276 83 della Scienza employed by the Medicis.
25. @ A, B. Open daily (Thu: am only). Piazza de’ Giudici 1. Tel 055-26 53 11. The second-floor rooms
& 7 Open 9:30am–6pm Mon–Sat (to 1pm display fine old clocks,
Tue). Closed public hols. 8 calculators, a horrifying
Palazzo Vecchio, completed in ∑ museogalileo.it collection of 19th-century
1322, has retained its external surgical instruments, weights
medieval appearance, and its This lively museum devotes and measures, and graphic
imposing bell tower dominates numerous rooms on two floors anatomical models.
the square. The “Old Palace” still to different scientific themes,
fulfils its original role as illustrating each with fine
Florence’s town hall. Much of displays and beautifully
the interior was remodeled for made early scientific
Duke Cosimo I in the mid-16th instruments. It is also
century by Vasari, whose work something of a shrine
includes several frescoes that to the Pisa-born
laud the Duke’s achievements. scientist, Galileo
The palazzo is entered via a Galilei (1564–1642),
courtyard, in which stands and features two
Verrochio’s Putto fountain. A of his telescopes as
staircase leads to the Salone dei well as large-scale
Cinquecento, which is graced reconstructions of
by Michelangelo’s Victory statue his experiments into
(1525), and to the tiny Studiolo motion, weight, velocity,
decorated by 30 of Florence’s and acceleration. These are
leading Mannerist painters. sometimes demonstrated
Eleonora of Toledo, wife of by the attendants. Other
Cosimo I, had a suite of rooms exhibits come from the Armillary sphere, Museo di Storia
Statue of Cosimo I in Piazza della Signoria in the palace, decorated with Accademia del Cimento della Scienza




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The Florentine Renaissance

Fifteenth-century Italy saw a flowering of the arts and
scholarship unmatched in Europe since Ancient Greek and
Roman times. It was in wealthy Florence that this artistic and
intellectual activity, later dubbed the Renaissance, was at its
most intense. The patronage of the rich banking dynasty, the
Medici, rulers of Florence from 1434, was lavished on the city,
especially under Lorenzo the Magnificent (1469–92), and the Italy in 1492
city aspired to become the new Rome. Architects turned to Republic of Florence
Classical models for inspiration, while the art world, with a Papal States
new understanding of perspective and anatomy, produced a Aragonese possessions
series of painters and sculptors that included such giants as
Donatello, Botticelli, Leonardo da Vinci, and Michelangelo.
Giuliano was the Piero de’ Medici, Lorenzo’s
younger son of father, was given the nickname
Piero de’ Medici. “the Gouty.”
The Procession of the Magi
Benozzo Gozzoli’s fresco (1459) in the Palazzo
Medici-Riccardi, Florence, depicts members of
the Medici family and other contemporary
notables. It contains references to the church
council held in Florence in 1439, which, it was
hoped, would effect a reconciliation between
the Church of Rome and the Eastern Church.














Pope Leo X
There were two Medici popes: Giovanni, who
reigned as Leo X (1513–21), and Giulio, who
took his place as Clement VII (1521–34).
Corruption in the church under Leo inspired
Luther and the growth of Protestantism.


1436 Brunelleschi completes 1452
1434 Cosimo de’ Medici comes dome of Florence cathedral Birth of 1464 Death
to power in Florence Leonardo of Cosimo
da Vinci il Vecchio
1425 1450
1420 Martin V 1453 Fall of
re-establishes Constantinople 1469 Lorenzo
papacy in Rome 1435 Publication of On Painting by the Magnificent
Cosimo de’ Alberti, which contains the first system becomes ruler
Medici for the use of linear perspective of Florence




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Michelangelo’s Sculpture Renaissance Architecture
The Quattro Prigioni (see In place of the spectacular Gothic style,
p397), unfinished works Renaissance architects favored the rational,
intended for the tomb of orderly, human scale of Greek and Roman
Pope Julius II, illustrate buildings. The various stories of a palazzo
Michelangelo’s ideal of were designed according to Classical
liberating “the figure proportions and there was a widespread
imprisoned in the marble.”
revival in the use of Roman arches and
the Doric, Ionic, and Corinthian orders
of columns.
Palazzo Strozzi
(1489–1536) is a
Filippo Brunelleschi typical Florentine
In order to realize his building of the
design for the dome of period. Rusticated
Florence’s cathedral, stonework gives an
Brunelleschi devised impression of great
engineering techniques strength. Decorative
decades ahead of their time. detail is largely on
the upper stories
Lorenzo de’ above the fortress-
Medici (the like ground floor.
Magnificent) is
depicted as one
of the three
kings traveling
to Bethlehem.




The Spedale degli Innocenti, an
orphanage, was one of Brunelleschi’s first
buildings in Florence. Slender Corinthian
columns support a delicate arcade.

Humanism
Carpaccio’s painting
St. Augustine in his
The Medici Study (1502) is
emblem of thought to show
seven balls
appears on the Cardinal Bessarion
trappings of (c.1395–1472), one
Lorenzo’s horse. of the scholars who
revived interest in
Classical philosophy,
especially Plato.


1498 Savonarola 1513 Giovanni de’ 1532 Machiavelli’s book The Prince is
executed; Machiavelli Medici crowned published, five years after his death
secretary to ruling Pope Leo X 1530 Medici restored as
Council in Florence rulers of Florence
1475 1500 1525
1494 Italy invaded by Charles
1475 Birth of VIII of France. Florence 1512 Michelangelo
Michelangelo declared republic under completes Sistine
1483 Birth leadership of the religious Chapel ceiling
of Raphael fanatic Savonarola Niccolò
Machiavelli




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q Uffizi The Vasari
Corridor leads to
The Uffizi was built in 1560–80 as a suite of the Palazzo
offices (uffici) for Duke Cosimo I’s new Tuscan Vecchio.
administration. The architect, Vasari, used iron Main staircase
reinforcement to create an almost continuous
wall of glass on the upper story. From 1581 Entrance
Cosimo’s heirs, beginning with Francesco I, Hall 1
used this well-lit space to display Entrance
the Medici family art treasures,
thus creating what is 4
now the oldest art
gallery in the world. 3 5-6
2 7
The café terrace merits 9
a visit for its unusual
views of Piazza della Bar 45 8
Signoria (see pp400–401).
43 10-14
44
Corridor ceilings are frescoed in
the “grotesque” style of the 1580s,
inspired by Roman grottoes.
42
Gallery Guide
The Uffizi art collection is
housed on the top floor.
Ancient Greek and Roman
sculptures are displayed in the 41
corridor running round the
inner side of the building. The
paintings are hung in a series 37-36
of rooms off the main corridor,
in chronological order, to reveal 38
the development of Florentine 35
art from Gothic to High
Renaissance and beyond. Most 34
of the best-known paintings
are grouped in rooms 7–18. To Buontalenti
avoid the long queues, book staircase
your visiting time in advance. The Ognissanti Madonna 33
Giotto’s grasp of spatial depth 26
in this altarpiece (1310) was a 31 32
milestone in the mastery of 27
perspective. 29 28
30


Key to Floorplan
East Corridor Entrance to the
West Corridor Vasari Corridor
Arno Corridor
Gallery Rooms 1–45
Non-exhibition space
. The Venus of Urbino (1538)
Titian’s sensuous nude was condemned
for portraying the goddess in such an
immodest pose.
For hotels and restaurants see pp438–40 and pp441–3


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VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
Practical Information
Piazzale degli Uffizi 6.
Tel 055-29 48 83 (bookings).
Open 8:15am–6:50pm Tue–Sun
(last adm: 45 mins before closing).
Closed Jan 1, May 1, Dec 25.
& 7 (partial). = 9
∑ polomuseale.firenze.it
Transport
@ B, 23.
. The Duke and Duchess of Urbino (1460)
Piero della Francesca’s panels are among the first true
Renaissance portraits. He even recorded the Duke’s
7 hooked nose – broken by a sword blow.
9
8
10-14
The Tribune,
16 decorated in
red and gold,
15 contains the
works that
the Medici
17 valued most.
18

19
20 . The Birth of Venus (1485)
Botticelli’s captivating image shows the Roman
21 goddess of love, born in a storm in the Aegean sea.
22 She is blown ashore by the winds and greeted by
23 24 nymphs, ready to wrap her in a cloak.

34 Adoration of the
Magi (c.1481)
Although Leonardo
da Vinci did not finish
25 this painting of the
26 wise men worshipping
27 the baby Jesus, it is
considered to be one
of his most important
early works.

Vasari’s
Classical
Arno facade





. The Holy Family (1507)
Michelangelo’s painting, the first to break with the
convention of showing Christ on the Virgin’s lap,
inspired subsequent Mannerist artists through its
expressive handling of color and posture.




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Exploring the Uffizi’s Collection

The Uffizi houses some of the greatest art of the Renaissance.
Accumulated over the centuries by the Medici, the collection
was first housed in the Uffizi in 1581, and eventually
bequeathed to the people of Florence by Anna Maria Lodovica,
the last of the Medici (1667–1743). Roman statues collected
by the Medici are on display in the Arno Corridor, but the
pride of the gallery is its matchless collection of paintings.

perspective than Paolo Uccello
(1397–1475), whose Battle of
Gothic Art
San Romano is displayed in
Following the collection of room 7. Portraits include two
statues and antiquities in room panels by Piero della Francesca
1, the gallery’s next six rooms (1410–92), depicting the Duke
are devoted to Tuscan art from and Duchess of Urbino, while
the 12th to the 14th centuries, Fra Filippo Lippi’s Madonna
notably works by Cimabue, and Child with Angels (1455–66) Madonna of the Long Neck by
Duccio, and Giotto, the three is a work of great warmth Parmigianino (c.1534)
greatest artists of this period. and humanity.
Giotto (1266–1337) introduced For most visitors, however, the European painters such as
a degree of naturalism new to famous Botticellis in rooms Dürer (1471–1528) are well
Tuscan art. This is apparent in 10–14 are the highlight of the represented.
the range of emotions gallery. In The Birth of Venus, Michelangelo’s Holy Family
expressed by the angels and Botticelli replaces the Virgin (1507), in Room 25, is striking
saints in his Ognissanti Madonna with the Classical goddess of for its vibrant colors and the
(1310). There are also fine works love, while in Primavera (1480), curious twisted pose of the
by Ambrogio and Pietro he breaks with Christian Virgin. This painting had great
Lorenzetti, and Simone Martini religious painting to depict influence on the next
of the Sienese School. the pagan rite of spring. generation of Tuscan painters,
notably Bronzino (1503–72),
Pontormo (1494–1556), and
Parmigianino (1503–40), whose
Early Renaissance High Renaissance Madonna of the Long Neck with
and Mannerism
A better understanding of its contorted anatomy and
geometry and perspective Room 15 contains works unusual colors is a classic
allowed Renaissance artists to attributed to the young example of what came to be
create an illusion of space and Leonardo da Vinci. The evolution known as Mannerism.
depth in their works. No artist of his masterly style can be Sublime examples of High
was more obsessed with traced in The Annunciation Renaissance art located nearby
(1472–5) and his unfinished include Raphael’s Madonna of
Adoration of the Magi (1481). the Goldfinch and Titian’s
The octagonal Tribune notorious Venus of Urbino
(room 18) displays some of (1538), considered by many
the best-loved pieces of the to be the most beautiful
Medici collection, including nude ever painted.
the 1st century BC Medici
Venus, considered the most
erotic of ancient statues.
There are also paintings of Later Paintings
family members, including Rooms 41–45 of the Uffizi hold
Bronzino’s fine portrait of paintings acquired by the Medici
Eleonora of Toledo, Cosimo in the 17th and 18th centuries.
I’s wife (1545). These include works by Rubens
Rooms 19 to 23 (1577–1640). Three paintings by
illustrate the spread of Caravaggio – Bacchus (c.1589),
Renaissance ideas and The Sacrifice of Isaac (c.1590),
techniques beyond and Medusa (1596–8) – are in the
Florence to other parts Sala del Caravaggio. Room 44 is
of Italy and beyond. The dedicated to northern European
Umbrian artist Perugino painting, and features Portrait of
Madonna of the Goldfinch (1506) by Raphael (1446–1523) and northern an Old Man (1665) by Rembrandt.




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w Ponte Vecchio opulently decorated with gold
and white stuccoed ceilings. The
@ many routes.
rooms are hung with portraits of
The Ponte Vecchio, the oldest the Medici family and decorated
surviving bridge in the city, with beautiful frescoes and
was designed by Taddeo Gaddi, Gobelins tapestries.
and built in 1345. The three- Other collections at the
arched bridge rests on two Palazzo include the Galleria
stout piers with boat-shaped d’Arte Moderna, with mainly
cutwaters. Its picturesque 19th-century works of art, the
shops were originally occupied Galleria del Costume, opened in
by blacksmiths, butchers, and 1983, which reflects changing
tanners (who used the river taste in courtly fashions, and the
as a convenient garbage Museo degli Argenti which
dump). They were evicted in displays the family’s lavish tastes
1593 by Duke Ferdinando I The massive Renaissance Palazzo Pitti, in silverware and furniture.
and replaced by jewelers and home to several museums
goldsmiths who were able to
pay higher rents. A bust of the e Palazzo Pitti
most famous of Florence’s Piazza de’ Pitti. @ D, 11, 36, 37. Tel
goldsmiths, Benvenuto Cellini 055-29 48 83. Open 8:15am–6:50pm
(1500–71), is located in the Tue–Sun. Closed public hols. & 7
middle of the bridge. ∑ polomuseale.firenze.it
The elevated Vasari Corridor
runs along the eastern side of Palazzo Pitti was originally built
the bridge, above the shops. It for the banker Luca Pitti, but his
was designed in 1565 to allow attempt to outrival the Medici
the Medici to move from the backfired when costs of the
Palazzo Vecchio to Palazzo Pitti building, begun in 1457, bank-
via the Uffizi, without having rupted his heirs. The Medici
to mix with the public. The moved in and subsequent
Mannelli family refused to rulers of the city lived here.
demolish their tower to make Today, the richly decorated
way for the corridor, and it rooms exhibit many treasures
stands there defiantly to this from the Medici collections.
day. The corridor passes around The Palatine Gallery contains
it, supported on brackets. numerous works of art and L’Isolotto with Giambologna’s Oceanus
The “Old Bridge,” at its most ceiling frescoes glorifying the Fountain, Boboli Gardens
attractive when viewed at Medici. Raphael’s Madonna della
sunset, was the only one to Seggiola (c.1515) and Titian’s r Boboli Gardens
escape destruction during Portrait of a Gentleman (1540) Piazza de’ Pitti. @ D, 11, 36, 37. Tel
World War II. Visitors today come are among the exhibits. 055-29 48 83 (bookings). Open daily.
to admire the views and to On the first floor of the south Closed 1st & last Mon of month, Jan 1,
browse among the antiques wing, the royal apartments – May 1, Dec 25. & 7
and specialized jewelry shops. Appartamenti Reali – are
Laid out behind Palazzo Pitti,
the Boboli Gardens are a great
example of stylized Renaissance
gardening. Formal box hedges
lead to peaceful groves of holly
and cypress trees, interspersed
with Classical statues.
Highlights include the stone
amphitheater where early opera
performances were staged and
L’Isolotto (Little Island), with its
statues of dancing peasants
around a moated garden. The
Grotta Grande is a Mannerist
folly, which houses several
statues including Venus Bathing
(1565) by Giambologna and
Vincenzo de’ Rossi’s Paris with
View of the Ponte Vecchio and the Arno at sunset Helen of Troy (1560).
For hotels and restaurants see pp438–40 and pp441–3


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9 Portofino and 17th-century
Peninsula frescoes by local artists.
Once the seat of the
g @ n PIazza Molfino 10, doges of Genoa and
Rapallo (0185-64 761). now an arts and cultural
∑ terrediportofino.eu
center, the Palazzo
Ducale is located
Portofino is the most exclusive between San Lorenzo
harbor and resort town in Italy, cathedral with its
crammed with the yachts of the attached museum, and
wealthy. Cars are not allowed Il Gesù, a Baroque
in the village but boats run church. All that remains
regularly between here and the of the Gothic church of
resort of Santa Margherita Sant’ Agostino,
Ligure. Boats also run to the bombed in World War II,
Abbazia di San Fruttuoso, an is the bell tower, which
11th-century abbey situated on is decorated with
the other side of the peninsula. colored tiles. Two
Further west along the coast surviving cloisters of its
is Punta Chiappa, a rocky Gothic facade of San Lorenzo, Genoa surrounding monastery
promontory famous for the have been turned into
changing colors of the sea. around the city, which are among the Museo di
Other attractive resorts along the finest in northwestern Italy. Sant’Agostino, which contains
the Ligurian coast include the The austere-looking Palazzo the city’s collection of sculptural
fishing village of Camogli, Reale, one-time residence of and architectural fragments.
Rapallo and its patrician villas, the Kings of Savoy, has a highly
and romantic Portovenere. ornate Rococo interior, a P Palazzo Reale
collection of paintings including Via Balbi 10. Tel 010-271 02 36.
works by Parodi and van Dyck, Open Tue–Sat, Sun pm only.
0 Genoa and an attractive garden. Closed Jan 1, Apr 25, May 1, Dec 25.
* 660,000. k Cristoforo Colombo Opposite the palace is the old & 7 ∑ palazzodigenova.
beniculturali.it
6 km (4 miles) W. g £ @ n Via University (1634), built on four
Garibaldi (010-557 29 03). ( Mon, levels and designed by the P Palazzo Bianco
Wed, & Thu. _ International Ballet architect Bartolomeo Bianco. Via Garibaldi 11. Tel 010-557 21 93.
Festival (Jul); Fiera Nautica (Oct). Palazzo Bianco, on the Via Open Tue–Sun. & Palazzo Rosso:
∑ visitgenoa.it Garibaldi, contains the city’s Tel 010-557 49 72. Open Tue–Sun. &
prime collection of paintings,
The most important commercial including works by Lippi, van E Museo di Sant’Agostino
port in Italy, Genoa (Genova in Dyck, and Rubens. Across the Piazza Sarzano 35R. Tel 010-251 12 63.
Italian) also possesses palaces, street, Palazzo Rosso houses Open Tue–Sun. Closed public hols.
paintings, and sculptures dotted works by Dürer and Caravaggio, & 7 ∑ museodigenova.it






















Portofino’s famous harbor, lined with colorful terraces
For hotels and restaurants see pp438–40 and pp441–3


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by Bernardo Drovetti, and antique treasures. Turin’s
Napoleon’s Consul symbol, the 167-m (547-ft) Mole
General in Egypt. Antonelliana, hosts the excellent
Wall and tomb Museo Nazionale del Cinema.
paintings, papyri,
sculptures, and a E Museo Egizio
reconstruction of Via Accademia delle Scienze 6.
the 15th-century Tel 011-561 77 76. Open Tue–Sun.
BC Rock Temple Closed Jan 1, Dec 25. & 7 =
of Ellessya are ∑ museoegizio.it
among its marvels. P Palazzo Reale
The Galleria Piazzetta Reale 1. Tel 011-436 14 55.
Sabauda, in the Open Tue–Sun. Closed Jan 1, May 1,
same building, was Dec 25. & 8 7 - =
The Dome of San Lorenzo in Turin the House of Savoy’s ∑ ilpalazzorealeditorino.it
main painting E Museo Nazionale del Cinema
q Turin collection, and houses a stunning Via Montebello 20. Tel 011-813 85 60.
* 940,000. k Caselle 15 km (9 miles) array of works by Italian, French, Open Tue–Sun. Closed Jan 1, Dec 25.
N. £ @ n Piazza Castello (011-53 51 Flemish, and Dutch masters. & - = ∑ museocinema.it
81). ( Sat. _ Festa di San Giovanni Other notable buildings
(Jun 24). ∑ turismotorino.org include San Lorenzo, the
former Royal Chapel designed
Home of the Fiat car company, by Guarino Guarini (1624–83),
the famous Shroud, and the which boasts an extraordinary
Juventus football team, Turin geometric dome. The Palazzo
(Torino to the Italians) is also a Reale, seat of the Savoys, holds
town of grace and charm, with a vast arms collection.
superb Baroque architecture. The Duomo (1497–8), Turin’s
Many of Turin’s monuments cathedral dedicated to St. John
were erected by the House of the Baptist, is the only example
Savoy (rulers of Piedmont and of Renaissance architecture in
Sardinia) from their capital here, the city. Inside, the Cappella
before Italian unification in 1861 della Sacra Sindone, also
made the head of the House of designed by Guarini, houses
Savoy King of Italy. the famous Turin Shroud. The imposing portico of the Baroque
The Museo Egizio – one of Inside the Palazzo Madama, Basilica di Superga
the world’s great collections of the Museo Civico d’Arte Antica
Egyptian artifacts – was amassed contains a variety of Classical Environs
In the countryside near Turin,
two superb monuments to
The Turin Shroud the House of Savoy are worth
The most famous – and most dubious – holy relic of them all is visiting. About 9 km (5 miles)
kept in Turin’s Duomo. The shroud, said to be the sheet in which southwest of Turin, Stupinigi
the body of Christ was wrapped after the Crucifixion, bears the is a magnificent hunting lodge,
imprint of a man with a side wound, and bruises, possibly from sumptuously decorated with
a crown of thorns. frescoes and paintings. It has
The shroud’s early history a vast collection of 17th- and
is unclear, but the House of 18th-century furniture.
Savoy was in possession of it The Baroque Basilica di
around 1450, and displayed it in Superga, on a hill to the east
Guarini’s chapel in the Duomo of Turin, offers good views of
from 1694. The shroud sits in a the city. Its mausoleum
silver casket inside an iron box commemorates kings of
within a marble coffer. This has
been placed inside an urn on Sardinia and other royals.
the chapel altar. A replica shroud
is on view. Tests done in 1988 P Stupinigi
claiming the shroud to be only Piazza Principe Amedeo 7.
a 12th-century relic were Tel 011-013 30 73. @ 41.
discredited by a US scientist Open Tue–Sun. & 7
in 2005. The shroud may be R Basilica di Superga
1,300–3,000 years old, pending Strada Basilica di Superga 75.
further tests. The supposed face of Christ imprinted Tel 011-899 74 56. £ Historic
on the Turin Shroud tram from Sassi. Open daily. Tombs:
& ∑ basilicadisuperga.com




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remarkable stained-glass
windows, bas-reliefs, and a
medieval treasury. More religious
artifacts can be seen in the
Museo del Duomo located in
the Palazzo Reale.
An ornate shopping arcade
completed in 1878, the Galleria
Vittorio Emanuele II links the
Piazza del Duomo with the
Piazza della Scala. It boasts a
superb metal and glass roof
crowned with a central dome,
has mosaic floors, and houses
stylish shops and restaurants.
The Neo-Classical Teatro alla
Scala opened in 1778 and is
among the most prestigious
opera houses in the world. Its
stage is one of the largest in
Europe. The adjoining Museo
Teatrale displays past sets and
costumes and offers a glimpse
of the auditorium.
The Castello Sforzesco, a
symbol of Milan, was initially
the palace of the Visconti family.
Francesco Sforza, who became
lord of Milan in 1450, embellished
The giant Gothic Duomo in central Milan, crowned with spires it, turning it into a magnificent
Renaissance residence. The
w Milan These dynasties became great building has a forbidding exterior,
patrons of the arts, with the a delightful interior, and contains
* 1,350,000. k Malpensa 55 km
(34 miles) NW; Linate 8 km (5 miles) E. result that Milan has acquired an impressive collection of
£ @ n Piazza Duomo 19A (02-77 a host of artistic treasures. furniture, antiquities, and
40 43 43). ( daily, major market Sat. Today this chic, bustling, and paintings. Michelangelo’s
_ Sant’Ambrogio (Dec 7). prosperous metropolis also unfinished sculpture, known
∑ turismo.milano.it offers opportunities for as the Rondanini Pietà, can
designer shopping and also be seen here.
Center of fashion and gastronomic pleasures. Milan’s finest art collection
business, Milan (Milano in Situated at the very heart of is held in the imposing
Italian) also has a wealth of Milan, the giant Duomo is one 17th-century Palazzo di
impressive sights reflecting its of the largest Gothic churches Brera. Major works of Italian
long and checkered history. in the world. The roof is Renaissance and Baroque
An important trading center extraordinary with 135 spires painters including The Marriage
since it was founded by the and innumerable statues and of the Virgin by Raphael, and
Romans in 222 BC, Milan’s gargoyles. Inside, there are Mantegna’s Dead Christ, hang in
central position made it a
favored location for the empire’s
rulers. It was here that Emperor
Constantine declared that
Christianity was officially
recognized, following his own
conversion (known as the
Edict of Milan, AD 313).
By the Middle Ages Milan was
one of many cities in Lombardy
which opposed the power of
the Holy Roman Emperor. A
period of local dynastic rule
followed the fall of the region
to the Visconti family in 1277.
They were succeeded by the
Sforzas during the Renaissance. The glass dome of the Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II in Milan
For hotels and restaurants see pp438–40 and pp441–3


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IT AL Y  411


the 38 rooms of the Pinacoteca an upside-down Y, and offers
di Brera. Works by some of fine views of the Alps.
Italy’s 20th-century artists are In the heart of the town
also on display. of Como lies the elegant
The beautiful 15th-century Piazza Cavour. The beautiful
Renaissance convent of Santa 14th-century Duomo nearby has
Maria delle Grazie, in the 15th- and 16th-century reliefs
southwest of the city, is a must- and paintings, and fine tombs.
see because it contains one of Bellagio, at the junction of
the key images of western the “Y,” has spectacular views,
civilization: the Last Supper (or and is one of the most popular
Cenacolo) of Leonardo da Vinci. spots on Lake Como.
The large wall painting has In the lakeside town of
deteriorated badly but remains Tremezzo, the 18th-century
an iconic work of great subtlety. Villa Carlotta is adorned with
Sant’Ambrogio is a mainly sculptures and celebrated for
10th-century Romanesque its terraced gardens.
basilica dedicated to the patron Statue of Carlo Borromeo, patron saint of
saint of Milan whose tomb lies Lake Maggiore, in Arona t Lake Garda
in the crypt. The 4th-century
church of San Lorenzo holds an From here Monte Mottarone, £ to Desenzano and Orta San
important collection of Roman a snow-capped peak offering Giulio. @ 4 Navigazione Lago
and early Christian remains. spectacular panoramic views, di Garda (800-55 18 01). n Piazza
can be reached by cable car. Virgilio 52, Colombare di Sirmione
R Duomo (030-990 91 84).
Piazza del Duomo. & roof, baptistry r Lake Como
and treasury. 7 Museo del Duomo: Garda, the largest of the
Tel 02-72 02 33 75. Open daily. £ to Como and Lecco. @ 4 northern lakes, borders the
+ Castello Sforzesco Navigazione Lago di Como (800 55 three regions of Trentino,
Piazza Castello. Tel 02-88 46 37 00. 18 01). n Piazza Cavour 17, Como Lombardy, and Veneto.
Open Tue–Sun. Closed public hols. (031-26 97 12). ∑ turismo.como.it Hydrofoils and catamarans
7 limited. ply the lake, offering stops at
Set in an idyllic landscape, Sirmione, site of a medieval
E Pinacoteca di Brera
Via Brera 28. Tel 02-72 26 31. Como has long attracted castle, Gardone with the
Open daily. Closed Jan 1, May 1, Dec visitors who come to walk curiosity-filled Villa il Vittoriale,
25. & 8 7 = in the hills or to go boating. and Salò where Mussolini
The long, narrow lake, also established a short-lived
R Santa Maria delle Grazie known as Lario, is shaped like Republic in 1943.
Piazza Santa Maria delle Grazie 2.
Cenacolo: Tel 02-46 76 11 25.
Open daily (booking compulsory).
Closed public hols. & 7
e Lake Maggiore
£ to Stresa and Laveno. @ 4
Navigazione Lago Maggiore (800 55
18 01). n Piazza Marconi 16, Stresa
(0323-301 50).
Lake Maggiore is a long
expanse of water that nestles
right against the mountains
and stretches away into Alpine
Switzerland. In the center lie
the exquisite Borromean
islands named after the chief
patron of the lake, St. Carlo
Borromeo, of whom there
is a giant statue in Arona.
Further up the western coast
of the lake is Stresa, the chief
resort and main jumping-off
point for visits to the islands. The attractive town of Menaggio on the western shore of Lake Como




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The Arena, Verona’s Roman amphitheater – the setting for spectacular summer opera performances
y Mantua frescoes by Mantegna in the u Verona
* 55,000. £ @ n Piazza Andrea Camera degli Sposi (1465–74), * 261,000. k Villafranca 12 km (7
Mantegna 6 (0376-43 24 32). ( Thu. are a highlight. They portray the miles) SW. £ @ n Via degli Alpini 9
Gonzaga family and court, and (045-806 86 80). ( daily. _ Estate
A striking if stern-looking city of the room is completed by a Teatrale Veronese (Jun–Aug); Opera
fine squares and aristocratic light-hearted trompe l’oeil ceiling. Festival (Jul–Sep).
architecture, Mantua (Mantova The nearby Duomo has an ∑ tourism.verona.it
in Italian) is bordered on three 18th-century façade and fine
sides by lakes. It was the interior stuccoes by Giulio Verona, a large and prosperous
birthplace of the poet Virgil and Romano (c.1492–1546). city of the Veneto region, boasts
playground for three centuries Piazza dell’Erbe is dominated magnificent Roman ruins,
of the Gonzaga dukes. Mantua by the Basilica di Sant’ Andrea second only to those of Rome
was also the setting for Verdi’s (15th century), designed largely itself, as well as some important
opera Rigoletto, and is by the early Renaissance medieval monuments.
mentioned in Shakespeare’s architect and theorist, Alberti. The Arena, Verona’s Roman
Romeo and Juliet. These Across town is the early amphitheater completed in
theatrical connections are 16th-century Palazzo Tè, AD 30, is the third largest in the
celebrated in local street names designed as the Gonzaga world. Concerts, plays, and
and monuments, and are family’s summer retreat. This opera productions are staged
reinforced by the presence in extraordinary palace is here. Other Roman sites include
the town of the 18th-century decorated with frescoes by the Roman Theater, and artifacts
Teatro Scientifico Bibiena, a Giulio Romano and has rooms from Roman times can be seen
masterpiece of late Baroque lavishly painted with horses and in the Museo Archeologico.
theater architecture. signs of the zodiac. The tragic story of Romeo
Mantua is focused on three and Juliet, first set here by Luigi
attractive main squares. Piazza P Palazzo Ducale da Porto in the 1520s and
Sordello is the site of the Palazzo Piazza Sordello 40. Tel 0376-35 21 00. immortalized by Shakespeare,
Ducale, the vast former home of Open Tue–Sun. Closed Jan 1, May 1, has inspired local monuments
the Gonzaga family which also Dec 25. & 8 (audio). 7 Camera such as Romeo’s House and
incorporates a 14th-century degli Sposi: Tel 041-241 18 97. the so-called Tomb of Juliet.
fortress and a basilica. The Open by appointment only. Verona’s focal point is Piazza
Erbe, scene of colorful markets
for 2,000 years.
The ornate tombs of members
of the Scaglieri family, who ruled
the city for 127 years from 1263,
are situated beside the entrance
to the church of Santa Maria
Antica. Another legacy of the
family is Castelvecchio, an
impressive castle built by
Cangrande II between 1355
and 1375. There is a fine art
gallery in the castle, which has a
collection of 15th-century late
Renaissance Madonnas. Built in
The 13th-century facade of the Palazzo Ducale in Mantua 1125–35 to house the shrine of
For hotels and restaurants see pp438–40 and pp441–3


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IT AL Y  413


Verona’s patron saint, San Zeno
Maggiore is the most ornate
Romanesque church in northern
Italy, famous for its unusual
medieval bronze door panels.
The Duomo also dates from
the 12th century and displays
Titian’s Assumption. Other notable
medieval churches in Verona are
San Fermo Maggiore, with
many interior frescoes including
the Annunciation by Pisanello
(1377–1455), and Sant’Anastasia,
which houses 15th-century
frescoes and holy water stoups
supported by figures of beggars
known locally as i gobbi.
The Basilica di Sant’Antonio in Padua, with its Byzantine domes
T Arena
Piazza Brà. Tel 045-800 32 04. statues. Beside it stands the o Padua
Open daily (Mon: pm only). 12th-century Torre di Piazza. * 220,000. £ @ n Vicolo
Closed Jan 1, Dec 25–26. & The Loggia del Capitaniato, Pedrocchi (049-201 00 80).
+ Castelvecchio to the northwest, was built ( Mon–Sat at Piazza delle Erbe.
Corso Castelvecchio 2. Tel 045-806 26 by Palladio in 1571. Its upper ∑ turismopadova.it
11. Open daily. & = 8 (audio). rooms contain the city’s
council chamber. Padua is an old university town
i Vicenza Europe’s oldest surviving with an illustrious academic
indoor theater, the Teatro history. The city (Padova in
* 116,000. £ @ n Piazza Olimpico was begun by Italian) has two major
Matteotti 12 (0444-99 47 70). ( Tue & Palladio in 1579 and attractions – the Basilica di
Thu. _ Concert season (May–Jun). completed by his pupil, Sant’Antonio, one of the
∑ vicenzae.org Vincenzo Scamozzi. It most popular sites of
was Scamozzi who pilgrimage in Italy, and
Vicenza is celebrated for its created the permanent the Cappella degli
splendid, varied architecture. stage, built of wood Scrovegni, a beautifully
Known as the city of Andrea and plaster and painted decorated chapel. The
Palladio (1508–80), stonemason to look like marble. It exotic Basilica was built
turned architect, it offers a represents Thebes, a from 1232 to house
unique opportunity to study the Greek city, and uses the remains of the great
evolution of his distinctive style. perspective to create Franciscan preacher,
Piazza dei Signori at the an illusion of depth. St. Anthony of Padua.
heart of Vicenza is dominated Palladio was also The chapel (1303)
by the Palazzo della Ragione, responsible for the features a series of
known also as the Basilica. design of Palazzo frescoes depicting the
Palladio’s first public Chiericati which houses Memorial to Andrea life of Christ, painted
commission, this building has the Museo Civico, but Palladio in Vicenza by Giotto. The Museo
a roof like an upturned boat, the epitome of his work Civico Eremitani on
and a balustrade bristling with can be seen in the Villa the same site has a rich
Rotonda, in the country side coin collection and an art gallery.
to the south of Vicenza. Other attractions include
the Duomo and Baptistry,
P Piazza dei Signori which contains one of Italy’s
Basilica: Tel 0444-22 28 11. Open daily most complete medieval fresco
during exhibitions. & cycles (painted by Giusto de’
Menabuoi in 1378), and the
P Teatro Olimpico Palazzo della Ragione, built in
Piazza Matteotti. Tel 0444-22 28 00. 1218 to serve as Padua’s law
Open Tue–Sun. Closed Jan 1, Dec 25.
& 7 court and council chamber.
P Villa Rotonda R Cappella degli Scrovegni
Via della Rotonda 45. Tel 0498-79 13 Piazza Eremitani. Tel 049-201 00 20.
80. Villa: Open Mar–Nov: Wed & Sat. Open daily (advance booking
The illusionistic stage set of the Teatro & Garden: Open Tue–Sun. & 7 necessary). Closed public hols.
Olimpico in Vicenza ∑ villalarotonda.it & 7




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p Venice Treviso A27 S Dona
Marco Polo
Sant
Created on a series of mud banks in a lagoon, with Alvise Canale A57 Mestre S146 S14 Torcello
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of the spice and silk trade from the East, R i o d e l B a t t e l l o R Madonna Nuove S11
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Rio di San Polo
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q Accademia 0 meters 300
0 yards 300
The Lagoon (see inset map)
w Murano
414-415_EW_Europe.indd 414 14/07/16 10:45 am

VENICE  415



Venice: The Lagoon Treviso A27 S Dona
Marco Polo
Sant A57 S146
Alvise Canale Mestre S14 Torcello
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DORSODURO Rio di CAMPO Rezzonico SAMUELE STEFANO SAN MOISE
R
S BARNABA Rio del Duca CAMPO San San Marco
SAN
CORTE CAMPO MAURIZIO Giardinetti C a n a l e d i S a n M a r c o
DEI
R d. San Nicolò CAMPO VECCHI Rio dell'Avogaria Rio Malpaga SQUERO Rio della Toletta Trovaso dell'Accademia CAMPO DEL Moisè San Marco
Ponte
ANGELO
Vallaresso
TRAGHETTO
RAFFAELE
Accademia Santa Maria
del Giglio
San CAMPO D. Salute
CARITA
di CAMPO
Rio Ognissanti
San SAN VIO
Basilio Rio
Vio
Rio di San On land, the only way to get around Venice is by
CAMPO Rio Piccolo del Legname Rio della Fornace
Zattere SANT'AGNESE Getting Around
foot, and strolling through the city’s narrow streets
is one its greatest pleasures. By water, the vaporetto
(see p432) water bus plies the canals of the city and
links it to the various lagoon islands. More exotic
craft include gondolas, which are very expensive,
and the more reasonable traghetti (gondola ferries).
The speediest means of travel is water taxi.
For keys to symbols see back flap
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1 St. Mark’s

The basilica blends architectural and decorative styles . Pentecost Mosaic
from East and West to create one of Europe’s greatest The interior of the dome
buildings. Built on a Greek-cross plan and crowned with above the nave is
decorated with a
five huge domes, it is the third church to stand on this 12th-century mosaic
site. The first, built to enshrine the body of St. Mark in of the Holy Spirit
the 9th century, was destroyed by fire. The second was descending on
pulled down in the 11th century to make way for a the Apostles in
tongues of fire.
truly spectacular edifice, reflecting the growing
power of the Republic and its links with Byzantium.
The dark interior is clad in wonderful mosaics,
gleaming with gold. Many treasures – statues,
icons, and the famous horses – were brought
to St. Mark’s after the 4th Crusade had
plundered Constantinople in 1204.
St. Mark flanked
by Angels
The statues crowning the
central arch were added
in the early 15th century.























. Horses of
St. Mark
The four horses
are replicas of the
gilded bronze Main
originals, kept entrance
in the Museo
Marciano, reached
from the atrium.


. Facade Mosaics
These are either heavily restored
or replacements of the originals.
This 17th-century work shows
the body of St. Mark being
smuggled out of Alexandria.
For hotels and restaurants see pp438–40 and pp441–3


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VENICE  417



. Pala d’Oro VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
The greatest treasure of
St. Mark’s is kept behind Practical Information
the high altar. The Piazza San Marco.
magnificent altarpiece, Tel 041-241 38 17.
created originally in the Open Apr–Nov: 9:45am–5pm
10th century, is made Mon–Sat, 2–5pm Sun; Dec–Mar:
up of 250 gold panels, 9:45am–5pm Mon–Sat, 2–4pm
adorned with enamels Sun. Sightseeing limited during
and precious stones. services. 8 & 7 A strict dress
code applies in the church.
Transport
4 San Marco.


















. Treasury
This contains many treasures
looted from Constantinople
by the Venetians in 1204. This
11th-century silver-gilt reliquary is
in the shape of a domed basilica.

KEY
1 The central arch features
13th-century carvings of the Labours
of the Months.
2 The atrium, or narthex, contains
many fine mosaics, notably those
of the Genesis Cupola showing
the Creation.
3 The Ascension Dome features
a magnificent 13th-century mosaic
of Christ surrounded by angels, the
12 Apostles, and the Virgin Mary.
4 The altar canopy, or baldacchino,
has alabaster columns carved with
New Testament scenes.
5 St. Mark’s body, thought to
have been lost in the fire of 976,
The Tetrarchs reappeared when the new church
This porphyry sculptural group was consecrated in 1094. The
(4th-century Egyptian) may remains are housed below the altar.
represent Diocletian, Maximian,
Constantius, and Valerian – 6 Allegorical mosaics decorate
the floor of the south transept.
the four joint rulers of the
Roman Empire c.AD 300, 7 Baptistry
known as the tetrarchs.



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2 Doge’s Palace

The official residence of the Venetian ruler
(Doge) was founded in the 9th century. The
present palace owes its external appearance
to the building work of the 14th and early
15th centuries. To create their airy Gothic
masterpiece, the Venetians broke with
tradition by perching the bulk of the palace
(built of pink Veronese marble) on top of an . Giants’ Staircase
apparent fretwork of loggias and arcades Statues by Sansovino of Neptune and Mars
(built of white Istrian stone). A tour of the at the top of this late 15th-century staircase
palace leads through a succession of richly symbolize Venice’s power at sea and on
land. Doges were crowned with the
decorated chambers and halls, ending with glittering zogia or
the Bridge of Sighs and the prisons. ducal cap on
the landing.
. Porta della Carta
This 15th-century Gothic
gate was the principal
entrance to the palace.
From it, a vaulted
passageway leads to the
Arco Foscari and the
internal courtyard.
















Exit







KEY
1 The balcony on the west 4 The Sala del Senato was
facade was added in 1536 to the home of the senate, which
mirror the early 15th-century had some 200 members.
balcony looking onto the quay. 5 Anticollegio
2 Arco Foscari 6 The Sala del Consiglio dei
Dieci was once the meeting place
3 In the Sala del Collegio of the powerful Council of Ten.
the doge would receive
ambassadors. The ceiling is 7 Sala della Bussola
decorated with 11 paintings (Compass Room)
by Veronese. 8 Ponte della Paglia

For hotels and restaurants see pp438–40 and pp441–3


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VENICE  419


Torture Chamber VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
Suspects under interrogation were
hung on the walls of this room by Practical Information
cords tied around their wrists. Piazza San Marco 1.
Tel 041-271 59 11.
Open 8:30am–7pm daily.
Closed Jan 1, Dec 25. & = -
8 (audio). 7 limited.
Transport
4 San Marco.


Bridge of Sighs
The bridge was built in 1600 to link
the palace with the state prisons. It
reputedly acquired its name from
the sighs of prisoners being led
across it to face trial.




Drunkenness of Noah
This early 15th-century
sculpture, symbolic of the
frailty of man, is set on the
corner of the palace.



























Main
entrance
. Sala del Maggior Consiglio
This vast chamber was the
meeting hall of Venice’s Great
Council. By the 16th century this
had over 2,000 members. The
entire end wall is taken up by
Tintoretto’s Paradise (1588–92).




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confraternity. Construction The Adoration of the Shepherds.
began in 1515. The work was The carvings below the paintings
financed by donations from were added in the 17th century
Venetians keen to invoke San by sculptor Francesco Pianta.
Rocco’s protection, and the They include (near the altar)
Scuola quickly became one a caricature of Tintoretto with
of the wealthiest in Venice. his palette and brushes.
In 1564, its members decided The Sala dell’Albergo contains
to commission Tintoretto to perhaps the most breathtaking
decorate its walls and ceilings. of all Tintoretto’s masterpieces –
His earliest paintings, the first the Crucifixion (1565). Henry
of over 50 works he eventually James once remarked of this
created for the Scuola, fill the painting: “no single picture
small Sala dell’Albergo off the contains more of human
Upper Hall. His later paintings life; there is everything in
are in the Ground Floor Hall, it, including the most
just inside the entrance. exquisite beauty.”
Portrait of a Young Man in a Red Hat The ground floor cycle was
(anonymous), Museo Correr executed in 1583–7, when 5 Santa Maria
Tintoretto was in his sixties,
3 Museo Correr and consists of eight episodes Gloriosa dei Frari
Piazza San Marco (entrance in Ala from the life of Mary. They are Campo dei Frari. Tel 041-272 86 11.
Napoleonica). Tel 041-240 52 11. remarkable for the tranquil 4 San Tomà. Open Mon–Sat & Sun
4 San Marco. Open daily. serenity of paintings such pm. Closed Jan 1, Jan 6, Easter,
Closed Jan 1, Dec 25. & = - 7 as The Flight into Egypt and Dec 25. & unless attending mass. ^
∑ correr.visitmuve.it St. Mary of Egypt.
Scarpagnino’s great staircase More commonly known as
Teodoro Correr bequeathed his (1544–6), leads to the Upper the Frari (a corruption of Frati,
extensive collection of works Hall, which was decorated by meaning brothers), this vast
of art to Venice in 1830, thus Tintoretto in 1575–81. The ceiling Gothic church dwarfs the
forming the core of the city’s is painted with scenes from the eastern area of San Polo. Its
fine civic museum. Old Testament. The three large 83-m (272-ft) campanile is the
Its first rooms form a suitably square paintings in the center tallest in the city after that of
Neo-Classical backdrop for early show episodes from the Book San Marco. The first church
statues by Antonio Canova of Exodus, all alluding to the on the site was built by the
(1757–1822). The rest of the charitable aims of the Scuola in Franciscans in 1250–1338,
floor covers the history of the alleviating thirst, sickness, and but was replaced by a larger
Venetian Republic, with maps, hunger. The vast wall paintings building completed in the mid-
coins, armor, and a host of feature episodes from the New 15th century. The airy interior
doge-related exhibits. Testament, linking with the is striking for its sheer size and
The second floor contains the ceiling paintings. Two of the for the quality of its works of
picture gallery. Works are hung most striking are The Temptation art, including masterpieces
chronologically, enabling one to of Christ, which shows a by Titian and Giovanni Bellini,
trace the evolution of Venetian handsome young Satan offering a statue by Donatello, and
painting. The most famous Christ two loaves of bread, and several grandiose tombs.
include the Portrait of a Young
Man in a Red Hat (c.1490),
once attributed to Carpaccio,
now thought to be by an artist
from the Ferrara/Bologna area,
and Carpaccio’s Two Venetian
Ladies (c.1507).
4 Scuola Grande di
San Rocco
Campo San Rocco. Tel 041-523 48 64.
4 San Tomà. Open daily. Closed Jan
1, Easter, Dec 25. & 7 = 8 (audio).
Founded in honor of San Rocco
(St. Roch), a saint who dedicated
his life to helping the sick, the
Scuola started out as a charitable Detail from Tintoretto’s Flight into Egypt, Scuola Grande di San Rocco
For hotels and restaurants see pp438–40 and pp441–3


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VENICE  421


The sacristy alterpiece, The
Madonna and Child (1488) by
Bellini, with its sublime use of
color, is one of Venice’s most
beautiful Renaissance paintings.
The main altarpiece is The
Assumption of the Virgin, a
spectacular, glowing work by
Titian (1518), which draws the
eye through the Renaissance
rood screen to the altar. Between
the altar and the screen is the
Monks’ Choir (1468), its three-
tiered stalls lavishly carved with
saints and Venetian city scenes. View across the Grand Canal to the Pescheria (fish market)
The Tomb of Canova, a marble,
pyramid-shaped tomb, was built Accademia. After passing the 14th century, it is striking for
after Canova’s death in 1822 by Rialto, the canal doubles back its vast scale and architectural
his pupils. It is similar to a design on itself along a stretch known austerity. Known as the
Canova himself had planned for as La Volta (the bend). It then Pantheon of Venice, it houses
a memorial for Titian. The Titian widens out and the views monuments to no fewer than
monument in the shape of a become more spectacular 25 doges. Among these are
triumphal arch that stands approaching San Marco. several fine works of art,
opposite was built by two of Facades may have faded and executed by the Lombardi
Canova’s pupils in 1853. foundations rotted, yet the family and other leading
canal remains, in the words sculptors. Pietro Lombardo
of the French ambassador created the magnificent
in 1495, “the most beautiful tombs of the doges Nicolò
street in the world.” Marcello (died 1474) and
Pietro Mocenigo (died 1476).
7 Santi Giovanni His masterpiece, the Tomb
e Paolo of Andrea Vendramin (died
1478), takes the form of a
Campo Santi Giovanni e Paolo (also Roman triumphal arch.
signposted San Zanipolo). Tel 041- The main doorway, which is
523 59 13. 4 Fondamenta Nuove decorated with Byzantine reliefs
or Ospedale Civile. Open daily. and carvings, is one of Venice’s
Closed Sun am for mass. 7 = earliest Renaissance architectural
works. On the right as you
Known colloquially as San enter the church is a polyptych
High altar of the Frari church with Titian’s Zanipolo, Santi Giovanni e by Giovanni Bellini (c.1465)
Assumption of the Virgin Paolo vies with the Frari as the showing St. Vincent Ferrer,
city’s greatest Gothic church. a Spanish cleric, flanked by
6 Grand Canal Built by the Dominicans in the St. Sebastian and St. Christopher.
4 1 from Ferrovia and many others.
The Gondolas of Venice
The best way to view the Grand The gondola has been a part of Venice since the 11th century. With
Canal as it winds through the its slim hull and flat underside, the craft is perfectly adapted to
heart of the city is from a negotiating narrow, shallow canals. There is a slight leftward curve
vaporetto, or water bus. Several to the prow, which counteracts the force of the oar, preventing
lines travel the length of the the gondola from going
canal. The palaces lining the around in circles.
waterway were built over a In 1562, it was decreed
span of five centuries and that all gondolas should
present a panoramic survey be black to stop people
of the city’s history, almost all making an ostentatious
bearing the name of some show of their wealth. For
once-great Venetian family. special occasions they
Nearly 4 km (2.5 miles) long, were decorated with
flowers. Today, gondola
the canal varies in width from rides are expensive and
30 to 70 m (100 to 230 ft) and usually taken by tourists.
is spanned by three bridges, Gondolas moored in a Venice canal
the Scalzi, the Rialto, and the



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8 Scuola di San
Giorgio degli
Schiavoni
Calle Furlani. Tel 041-522 88 28. 4 San
Zaccaria. Open daily. Closed Mon am,
Sun pm. &
Within this small Scuola,
established in 1451 and rebuilt The single-story palazzo housing the Peggy Guggenheim Collection
in 1551, are some of the finest
paintings of Vittore Carpaccio Construction of the church, 0 Peggy
(c.1460–1525). Commissioned begun in 1630 by Baldassare Guggenheim
by the Schiavoni, or Dalmatian Longhena, was not completed Collection
Slav trading community in until 1687, five years after
Venice, Carpaccio’s exquisite his death. Palazzo Venier dei Leoni. Tel 041-240
frieze (1502–08) shows scenes The comparatively sober 54 11. 4 Accademia. Open Wed–
from the lives of three saints: interior of Santa Maria della Mon. Closed Dec 25. & 8 (audio).
St. George, St. Tryphon, and Salute consists of a large = - ∑ guggenheim-venice.it
St. Jerome. Each episode of the octagonal space below the
narrative cycle is remarkable for cupola and six chapels Intended as a four-story palace,
its vivid coloring and minutely radiating from the ambulatory. the 18th-century, Palazzo Venier
observed detail of Venetian life. The sculptural group around dei Leoni in fact never rose
St. George Slaying the Dragon the grandiose high altar is beyond the ground floor –
and The Vision of St. Jerome are by Giusto Le Corte and hence its nickname “The
both outstanding. represents the Virgin and Unfinished Palace.” In 1949, the
Child protecting the city of building was bought by Peggy
9 Santa Maria della Venice from the plague. Guggenheim (1898–1979), an
Salute In the sacristy to the left of American collector, dealer, and
the altar, Titian’s early altarpiece
patron of the arts. One of the
Campo della Salute. Tel 041-241 00 18. St. Mark Enthroned with St. Cosmas, most visited sights of Venice,
4 Salute. Open daily. & to sacristy. St. Damian, St. Roch and St. the palace is the best place in
Sebastian (1511–12) and his the city to see modern art. The
The great Baroque church of dramatic ceiling paintings light-filled rooms and modern
Santa Maria della Salute, of David and Goliath, Cain and canvases are in striking contrast
standing at the entrance of the Abel, and The Sacrifice of Isaac to the majority of the art on
Grand Canal, is an imposing (1540–9) are considered the display in Venice.
architectural landmark of Venice. finest paintings in the church. Her collection consists of 200
The Wedding at fine paintings and sculptures,
Cana (1551) on representing the 20th century’s
the wall opposite most influential modern art
the entrance, is movements. The dining room
a major work by has notable Cubist works of art,
Jacopo Tintoretto. including The Poet by Pablo
The church Picasso, and an entire room is
was named Salute, devoted to Jackson Pollock,
which means who was “discovered” by
both “health” and Guggenheim. There are also
“salvation,” in works by Braque, Chagall, Dalí,
thanksgiving for the Klee, Mondrian, and Magritte,
deliverance of the whose Surreal Empire of Light
city from the plague (1953–4) shows a night scene
epidemic of 1630. of a darkened house with bright
Each November, in a daylight above.
moving ceremony The sculpture collection,
of remembrance, which includes Constantin
worshipers light Brancusi’s elegant Bird in Space
candles and (c.1923), is laid out in the house
approach the and the garden.
church across a Perhaps the most provoc ative
bridge of boats piece, on the canal terrace, is
which spans the Marino Marini’s Angelo della Città
The Baroque church of Santa Maria della Salute, viewed from mouth of the (1948). It shows a man sitting on
the other side of the Grand Canal Grand Canal. a horse, erect in all respects.
For hotels and restaurants see pp438–40 and pp441–3


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VENICE  423

q Accademia
Campo della Carità. Tel 041-520 03 45
(bookings). 4 Accademia. Open
daily (Mon: am only). Closed Jan 1,
May 1, Dec 25. & 8 (audio). =
∑ gallerieaccademia.org
Spanning five centuries,
the matchless collection of
paintings in the Accademia
provides a complete spectrum
of the Venetian school, from
the Byzantine period through
the Renaissance to the Baroque The colonnaded apse of Murano’s Basilica dei Santi Maria e Donato
and later.
Housed in three former the atmospheric Tempest Murano was the principal glass-
religious buildings, the basis (c.1507). Among Renaissance producing center in Europe,
of the collection was the works on display are Feast in the and today most tourists visit
Accademia di Belle Arti, founded House of Levi (1573) by Veronese, to tour the furnaces and buy
in 1750 by the painter Giovanni and The Miracle of the Slave traditionally designed glass from
Battista Piazzetta. In 1807, (1548), which made the the manufacturers’ showrooms.
Napoleon moved the academy reputation of Jacopo Tintoretto. The Museo del Vetro in the
to its present premises, greatly The long gallery of Baroque, Palazzo Giustinian houses a fine
enlarging the collection with genre, and landscape paintings collection of antique pieces. The
artworks from churches and alongside Palladio’s inner prize exhibit is the dark blue
monasteries he suppressed. courtyard (1561) features works wedding cup (1470–80) with
The gallery is currently being by Giambattista Tiepolo, the enamel work by Angelo Barovier.
enlarged and some rooms may greatest Venetian painter of The architectural highlight of
be closed. the 18th century, and a view the island is the 12th-century
A highlight of the Byzantine of Venice (1763) by Canaletto. Basilica dei Santi Maria e
and Gothic section is Paolo Rooms 20 and 21 contain two Donato with its lovely
Veneziano’s Coronation of the cycles of paintings portraying colonnaded apse. Of particular
Virgin (1325), which contrasts Venetian settings: The Stories note are the Gothic ship’s-keel
with the delicate naturalism of the Cross, and Scenes from roof, the mosaic Madonna in
of Giambono’s painting of the the Legend of St. Ursula, painted the apse, and the beautiful
same name (1448). by Carpaccio (1490s). medieval mosaic floor, which
The Bellini family played a dates from 1140.
dominant role in the early w Murano
Venetian Renaissance, and E Museo del Vetro
outstanding examples of their 4 LN, 41 and 42 from Fondamenta Fondamenta Giustinian 8. Tel 041-73
work include Giovanni Bellini’s Nuove; DM from Ferrovia and 95 86. Open daily. Closed Jan 1, May
Madonna and Child between Piazzale Roma. 1, Dec 25. & = ∑ museovetro.
St. John the Baptist and a Saint visitmuve.it
(c.1504), and other paintings Like the city of Venice, Murano R Basilica dei Santi Maria
of his Madonna collection consists of a cluster of small e Donato
in room 13. One of Bellini’s islands, connected by bridges. Campo San Donato. Tel 041-73 90 56.
students, Giorgione, painted In the 15th and 16th centuries, Open daily (Sun: pm only).
















Veronese’s painting of Christ’s Last Supper, retitled The Feast in the House of Levi (1573), in the Accademia




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a Ferrara chapels open off the
nave of the Gothic
* 140,000. £ @ n Castello
Estense, Piazza Castello (0532-20 93 70). interior, many with
( Mon & Fri. ∑ ferrarainfo.com fine works of art.
San Domenico is
The d’Este dynasty has left an the most important
indelible mark on Ferrara, one of Italy’s many
of the Emilia-Romagna region’s Dominican churches,
greatest walled towns. The housing, as it does,
noble family took control of the the tomb of
town under Nicolò II in the late St. Dominic himself.
13th century, holding power A magnificent
until 1598. Castello Estense, the composite work, the
family’s dynastic seat, with its tomb features statues
moats, towers, and battlements, and reliefs by Nicola
looms over the town center. Pisano, while the
Bronze statues of Nicolò III figures of angels and
and Borso d’Este, one of Nicolò’s saints are early works
reputed 27 children, adorn the by Michelangelo. The
medieval Palazzo del Comune. Torri degli Asinelli e
The d’Este summer retreat was Flagged medieval street with shady, arcaded buildings, Garisenda are
the Palazzo Schifanoia. Begun typical of central Bologna among the few
in 1385, it is famous for its Salone surviving towers of
dei Mesi, whose walls are s Bologna the 200 that once formed the
covered with murals by Cosmè * 385,000. k Marconi 9 km skyline of Bologna. Both were
Tura and other Ferrarese painters. (5 miles) NW. £ @ n Piazza begun in the 12th century.
Access is limited due to damage Maggiore 1/e (051-23 96 60). ( Fri & The Garisenda tower (closed
from the 2012 earthquake. Sat. _ Bologna Estate (Jun–Sep). to the public) leans some 3 m
Ferrara’s cathedral has an (10 ft), while the Asinelli tower
excellent museum, which Capital of Emilia-Romagna and has a 500-step ascent and offers
contains marble reliefs of the one of Italy’s most prosperous fine views.
Labours of the Months (late 12th cities, Bologna has a rich The Romanesque-Gothic
century), two painted organ cultural heritage, ranging from church of San Giacomo
shutters (1469) of St. George and medieval palaces and churches Maggiore, begun in 1267 but
the Annunciation by Tura, and to leaning towers. altered substantially since, is
the Madonna of the Pomegranate Celebrated in the Middle Ages visited mainly for the superb
(1408) by Sienese sculptor Jacopo for its university – believed to be Bentivoglio family chapel,
della Quercia (c.1374–1438). the oldest in Europe – Bologna decorated with frescoes by
came under papal rule in 1506 Lorenzo Costa (1460–1535).
+ Castello Estense and a large part of the city was The Bentivoglio tomb is among
Piazza Castello. Tel 0532-29 92 33. given over to monasteries and the last works of Jacopo
Open Tue–Sun (Mar–Jun & Sep: daily). convents. After the arrival of della Quercia.
Closed Dec 25. & 7 Napoleon’s occupying force in Bologna’s main art gallery, the
P Palazzo Schifanoia 1797, the university was moved Pinacoteca Nazionale, stands
Via Scandiana 23. Tel 0532-24 49 49. from its Catholic cradle in the on the edge of the university
Open Tue–Sun. Closed public hols. & Archiginnasio to a science district. Its two highlights are
building where Marconi later Perugino’s Madonna in Glory
studied. After unification the (c.1491) and Raphael’s famous
old city walls were demolished Ecstasy of St. Cecilia, painted
and an era of prosperity was around 1515.
ushered in. The cuisine of Bologna is
The two central squares of the among the finest in Italy. To
city, Piazza Maggiore and Piazza try the famous Bolognese
del Nettuno, are bordered to meat sauce you should order
the south by the churches of tagliatelle al ragù.
San Petronio and San Domenico.
The former ranks among the P Torri degli Asinelli e Garisenda
greatest of Italy’s brick-built Piazza di Porta Ravegnana.
medieval buildings. Founded Open daily. &
in 1390, its construction was E Pinacoteca Nazionale
halted halfway due to financial Via delle Belle Arti 56. Tel 051-420 94
constraints, and the planned 11. Open Tue–Sun. Closed May 1,
The medieval Castello Estense and central row of columns became Aug 16. & 7 ∑ pinacoteca
surrounding moat in Ferrara the eastern flank. Twenty-two bologna.beniculturali.it
For hotels and restaurants see pp438–40 and pp441–3


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IT AL Y  425

d Ravenna f Urbino
* 140,000. £ @ n Via Salara * 16,000. @ n Piazza
8–12 (0544-357 55). ( Wed & Sat. Rinascimento 1 (0722-26 13). ( Sat.
∑ turismo.ravenna.it
Urbino traces its origins to
Ravenna rose to power in the the Umbrians, centuries before
1st century BC when Emperor Christ, and became a Roman
Augustus built a port and naval municipality in the 3rd century
base nearby, but gained further BC. The city’s zenith, however,
prominence after becoming the came in the 15th century under
administrative capital of the the rule of the philosopher-
Byzantine Empire in AD 402. warrior Federico da Montefeltro,
Most people visit the city for its who commissioned the building
superb early Christian mosaics. of the Palazzo Ducale in 1444.
Spanning the years of Roman This beautiful Renaissance
and Byzantine rule, they can be palace has an extensive library,
seen in many of Ravenna’s 5th- Apse of San Vitale, Ravenna, showing hanging gardens, and numerous
and 6th-century buildings. In 6th-century mosaics fine paintings. Two great
the church of San Vitale, apse 15th-century works, The
mosaics (526–547) show the 20 years after the death of her Flagellation by Piero della
saint being handed a martyr’s husband, the Visigothic King Francesca, and Ideal City
crown. Another mosaic depicts Altauf. The 6th-century church attributed to Luciano Laurana,
Emperor Justinian, who ruled of Sant’Apollinare Nuovo is are notable for their use
from 527 to 565. Next door, the dominated by two rows of of perspective.
tiny Mausoleo di Galla Placidia mosaics which depict pro- Of special interest in the
is adorned with a mosaic of The cessions of martyrs and virgins Neo-Classical Duomo, built
Good Shepherd. Galla Placidia bearing gifts. in 1789, is the painting of
ran the Western Empire for Travelers in Ravenna can also the Last Supper by Federico
visit Dante’s Tomb – the great Barocci (c.1535–1612). The
writer died here in 1321 – and Museo Diocesano contains a
Byzantine Italy the Museo Nazionale, which collection of ceramics, glass,
By the 5th century AD, the houses icons, paintings, and and religious artifacts.
Roman Empire was split into archaeological displays. The best The Casa Natale di Raffaello,
two. Rome and the Western place to relax and take a break home of Urbino’s famous son,
Empire could not stem the tide from sightseeing is among the the painter Raphael (1483–
of Germanic invaders as lovely ensemble of medieval 1520), is also open to visitors.
they migrated buildings in the Piazza del Popolo.
southwards and P Palazzo Ducale
Italy fell to the R San Vitale & Mausoleo di Piazza Duca Federico 13. Tel 0722-32
Goths. In the years Galla Placidia 26 25. Open 8:30am–7:15pm Tue–
after 535 AD, Via Fiandrini. Tel 0544-54 16 88. Open Sun, 8:30am–2pm Mon. Closed Jan 1,
however, the daily. Closed Jan 1, Dec 25. & 7 Dec 25. & = 7
Eastern R Sant’Apollinare Nuovo P Casa Natale di Raffaello
Empire Via di Raffaello 57. Tel 0722-32 01 05.
reconquered Via di Roma. Tel 0544-54 16 88.
most of Italy. Open daily. Closed Jan 1, Dec 25. Open daily (Nov–Feb: am only).
Its stronghold, & 7 Closed Jan 1, Dec 25. &
Ravenna,
became the
richest, most
powerful Italian
city. Most of the
peninsula was
subsequently
lost to the
Lombards who
invaded in 564,
but Ravenna,
Byzantine protected by
Emperor marshes and
Justinian lagoons, was
able to hold out
until 752 when the Lombard
King Aistulf finally recaptured
the city.
The Palazzo Ducale, rising above the rooftops of Urbino




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palace of Castel Nuovo, built
for Charles of Anjou in 1279–82.
Another star sight, the Palazzo
Reale was designed for the
viceroy Ruiz de Castro, and has
a superb library, richly adorned
royal apartments, and a court
theater. Begun in 1600, the
palace was not completed
until 1843.
The Palazzo Reale di
Capodimonte, once a hunting
lodge, now houses the Museo
di Capodimonte, with its
magnificent collection of Italian
paintings, including works by
Titian, Botticelli, and Raphael.
View across the Bay of Naples to the slopes of Mount Vesuvius This part of Naples is also
known for its “Spanish Quarter,”
g Naples have left Naples with a rich store or Quartieri Spagnoli, a
* 1,100,000. k Capodichino of ancient ruins, churches, and neighborhood of narrow,
4 km (2.5 miles) NW. g £ @ palaces, many of which can be cobbled alleys often used to
n Piazza del Gesù (081-551 27 01). seen in the compact center of represent the archetypal
( daily. _ Maggio dei Monumenti the old city. The Museo Neapolitan street scene.
(May), San Gennaro (Sep 19). Archeologico Nazionale
holds treasures from Environs
The chaotic yet spectacular Pompeii and A trip by funicular
city of Naples (Napoli) Herculaneum, railway up Vomero
sprawls around the edge of including a bust hill brings you to
a beauti ful bay in the shadow of Seneca, fine the Certosa di San
of Mount Vesuvius. glassware, frescoes, Martino. This
Originally a Greek city named mosaics, and the 14th-century
Neapolis, founded in 600 BC, fabulous Farnese charterhouse has
Naples became an “allied city” of Classical sculptures. been lavishly
Rome two centuries later. It has Nearby, the church redecorated over
since had many foreign rulers. of San Giovanni a the centuries. The
The French House of Anjou Carbonara houses some Church and the
controled Naples between 1266 glorious medieval works Prior’s Residence
and 1421, when power passed of art, such as the tomb are particularly
to Alfonso V of Aragón. A colony of King Ladislas of impressive. Just
of Spain by 1503, in 1707 Naples Naples (1386–1414). behind the
was ceded to Austria, and in The French Gothic Certosa lies
1734 Charles III of Bourbon took Duomo holds the Farnese Hercules, Museo the Castel Sant
over. In 1860, Naples became relics of San Gennaro, Archeologico Nazionale Elmo, which
part of the new kingdom of Italy. martyred in 305 AD. offers fine views.
The centuries of occupation Next to it is one of Italy’s finest Boat excursions can be taken
Renaissance gateways, the Porta along the Posillipo coast, and to
Capuana, completed in 1490. the islands of Capri, Ischia, and
Also worth visiting, the Procida. Inland, Caserta has its
Monte della Misericordia, own Palazzo Reale, which
a 17th-century octagonal boasts over 1,000 sumptuously
church, houses Caravaggio’s decorated rooms. The town of
huge Seven Acts of Mercy (1607). Santa Maria Capua Vetere has
Central Naples is particularly a Roman amphitheater and
rich in 14th- and 15th-century a Mithraeum.
churches. San Domenico
Maggiore contains some fine E Museo Archeologico
Renaissance sculpture while Nazionale
Santa Chiara houses the tombs Piazza Museo Nazionale 19. Tel 081-44
of the Angevin monarchs and a 22 149. q Museo. Open Thu–Wed.
museum whose exhibits include Closed May 1, Dec 25. &
the ruins of a Roman bathhouse. E Museo di Capodimonte
Tomb of King Ladislas of Naples in San Southeast Naples is home to Parco di Capodimonte. Tel 081-749 91
Giovanni a Carbonara the city’s castles and the royal 11. Open Thu–Tue. & 7
For hotels and restaurants see pp438–40 and pp441–3


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A breathtaking view of the steep village of Positano on the Amalfi Coast
h Pompeii not prudish – graphic frescoes are dining on locally caught
Porta Marina. Tel 081-857 53 47. £ reveal the services offered by grilled fish and sipping icy
@ Open daily. Closed Jan 1, May 1, male and female prostitutes in Lacrima Christi from Vesuvian
Dec 25. & 7 8 the lupanares, or brothels. vineyards, interspersed with
Many works of art, domestic beach-hopping.
Ancient Pompeii, destroyed items, and other artifacts were From Sorrento, a well-
in AD 79 by an eruption of preserved by the mud and ash developed holiday resort, the
Vesuvius, lay buried under rock are on permanent display in road winds down to Positano,
and ash until the 18th century. the Museo Archeologico a village clambering down a
When excavations began in Nazionale in Naples. vertiginous slope to the sea.
1748, a city frozen in time was Further on, Praiano is another
revealed. Many buildings j Amalfi Coast fashionable resort.
survived, some complete with Amalfi – the coast’s largest
paintings and sculptures. The g @ Amalfi. n Via delle town – was a maritime power
villa of the wealthy patrician Repubbliche Marinare 19–21, before it was subdued in 1131
Casii is known as House of the Amalfi (089-87 11 07). by King Roger of Naples. Its
Faun after its bronze statuette. most illustrious citizens were
The House of the Vettii, named The most enchanting and most buried in the 13th-century
after its owners, contains rich visited route in Campania skirts Chiostro del Paradiso, flanking
wall decorations. the southern flank of Sorrento’s the 9th-century Duomo.
The original layout of the peninsula: the Amalfi Coast Above Amalfi, Ravello offers
city can be clearly seen. The (Costiera Amalfitana). Among peace and quiet and superb
Forum was the center of public the popular pleasures here views of the coast.
life, with administrative and
religious institutions grouped
around it. Theaters, the
marketplace, temples, stores,
and even brothels can be
visited. Around 2,000 people
died at Pompeii and casts of
numerous recumbent figures
have been made.
Much of our knowledge of
the daily lives of the ancient
Romans has been derived from
the excavations at Pompeii and
nearby Herculaneum. The baths
were divided into separate
sections for men and women,
but the citizens of Pompeii were Sacrarium of the Lares, shrine of Pompeii’s guardian deities




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Sicily E Galleria Regionale di Sicilia
Via Alloro 4. Tel 091-623 00 11.
Located at a crossroads in the Mediterranean, Sicily was a Open am daily, pm Tue–Thu. &
magnet for colonists and invaders from half the ancient P Palazzo Reale &
civilized world. As Greek, Arab, and Norman conquerors came Cappella Palatina
and went, they left behind a rich and varied cultural heritage. Piazza Indipendenza. Tel 091-626 28
33. Open daily. &
This has evolved into a colorful mixture of language, customs,
and cuisine, and is reflected in the diverse art and architecture E Museo Regionale Salinas
of the island. Sicily has magnificent beaches, remote hilltowns, Piazza Olivella 24. Tel 091-611 68 06.
flower-covered mountain ranges, and an active volcano Open Tue–Sun (am only Sat, Sun &
whose lava flows over the centuries have created a fertile hols). &
land of walnut trees, citrus groves, and vineyards.
Environs
A few miles inland from
Palermo, the cathedral at
Monreale, founded in 1172,
is one of the great sights of
Norman Sicily. The glittering
mosaics and Saracenic-style
cloisters, represent Norman
artistry at its peak.
R Monreale
Piazza Vittorio Emanuele. @ 8
Cloister: Tel 091-640 44 13. Open daily
(am only Sun & hols). & for treasury
& terrace.
l Taormina
Front facade of the Norman Duomo in Palermo
Messina. * 10,000. £ @ n Palazzo
k Palermo di Sicilia, which has a fine Corvaja, Piazza Santa Caterina (0942
collection of sculptures, 232 43). ( Wed.
* 700,000. k Punta Raisi 32 km
(20 miles) W. g £ @ n Via medieval crucifixes, frescoes,
Maqueda 81 (091-662 82 91). and paintings. Sicily’s most popular tourist
( Mon–Sat. _ U Festinu for On the Piazza della Vittoria resort has sandy beaches
Santa Rosalia (Jul 10–15). in South Palermo, the Palazzo and numerous restaurants.
Reale – a focus of power The most illustrious relic of
Capital of Sicily and situated since Byzantine rule – is now the past is the 3rd-century BC
along the bay at the foot of home to Sicily’s regional Theater, begun by the Greeks,
Monte Pellegrino, Palermo government. Its splendid and rebuilt by the Romans.
was originally called Panormos, Cappella Palatina is adorned Among other Classical ruins are
or “port” by the Phoenicians. with mosaics. The Duomo, the Odeon (a musical theater)
A prosperous Roman town, founded in 1184, has a Catalan and the Naumachia (a man-
Palermo’s golden age came Gothic portico (1430) and a made lake for mock battles).
later, while under Arab cupola in Baroque style. The 14th-century Palazzo
domination. The Baroque period The Museo Regionale Salinas Corvaia and the 13th-century
(17th–18th centuries) has also is considered one of Italy’s most Duomo, renovated in 1636,
left a lasting mark on the city’s important archaeology museums. are also worth visiting.
civic and religious buildings.
Palermo suffered heavy
bombardment by the Allies
in World War II, but, despite
chaotic rebuilding, the city
remains an exotic mix of the
oriental and the European.
The old Arab quarter can
be found in North Palermo,
typified by Vucciria, one of the
city’s lively markets. On Piazza
Marina, the focal point of North
Palermo, the Palazzo Abatellis
houses the Galleria Regionale Taormina’s Classical theater with Mount Etna in the background
For hotels and restaurants see pp438–40 and pp441–3


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Fishing boats moored in the picturesque harbor of Syracuse
z Mount Etna Admiral Nelson once stayed. and Normans. The historic
At Ortigia’s farthest point is medieval core of the city
Catania. £ to Linguaglossa or the Castello Maniace, built focuses on the Via Atenea. The
Randazzo; Circumetnea (095-541 250).
@ to Nicolosi. n Via G Garibaldi 63, by Frederick II around 1239, 13th-century abbey complex of
Nicolosi (095-91 44 88). and the Galleria Regionale Santo Spirito houses stuccoes
di Palazzo Bellomo, where by Giacomo Serpotta (1695).
One of the world’s largest active Caravaggio’s Burial of St. Lucy
volcanoes, Mount Etna was (1608) may be seen. Environs
thought by the Romans to have One of the most important South of Agrigento, the Valley
been the forge of Vulcan, the examples of ancient theater of Temples is the principal
god of fire. To view it in comfort, architecture, the 5th-century BC sacred site of ancient Akragas.
take the Circumetnea railway, Greek Theater has a 67-tier The mainly 5th- and 6th-century
which runs around the base auditorium or cavea. The great ruins rank among the most
from Catania to Riposto. Greek playwrights staged their impressive complexes of ancient
Now a protected area, about works here. Greek buildings outside Greece.
58 sq km (22 sq miles) in At Tyche, north of Syracuse, Museo Regionale Archeologico
size, Etna offers numerous the Museo Archeologico houses outstanding artifacts
opportunities for excursions. Regionale Paolo Orsi houses an from the temples and the city.
One of the most popular is important collection of artifacts
from Zafferana to the Valle excavated from local digs, E Museo Regionale
del Bove. Guided hikes can which date from the Paleolithic Archeologico
also be taken up to the large to the Byzantine era. Contrada San Nicola, Viale Panoramica.
craters at the summit. Tel 0922-40 15 65. Open daily. &
E Galleria Regionale di
Palazzo Bellomo
x Syracuse Palazzo Bellomo, Via Capodieci 16.
Tel 0931-695 11. Open Tue–Sat, Sun am.
* 118,000. g £ @ n Via Maes-
tranza 33 (0931-464 255). ( Wed. E Museo Archeologico
Regionale Paolo Orsi
The most important and Viale Teocrito 66. Tel 0931-46 40 22.
powerful Greek city from 400 Open Tue–Sat, Sun am.
to 211 BC when it fell to the
Romans, Syracuse (Siracusa in c Agrigento
Italian) was also regarded as
the most beautiful. * 57,000. g £ @ n Via
The peninsula of Ortigia Empedocle 73 (0922-203 91). ( Fri.
is the hub of the old city. A
highlight is the 18th-century Modern Agrigento occupies the
Duomo. Its Baroque facade site of Akragas, an important
masks the Temple of Athena city of the ancient Greeks.
(5th century BC), which has Following the Roman conquest
been absorbed into it. Nearby of 210 BC, Agrigento was
is the Palazzo Beneventano renamed and successively The Temple of Concord (c.430 BC) in the
del Bosco (1778–88) where occupied by Byzantines, Arabs, Valley of Temples, Agrigento




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Practical Information Visa Requirements
Citizens of the European Union
Italy’s charm and allure help to mask an idiosyncratic (EU), US, Canada, Australia, and
infrastructure in which delays and long lines are common. Be New Zealand do not require a
prepared to wait in offices and banks, and to persevere when visa for stays of up to three
seeking information. However, communications – other than months. Most European Union
visitors need only a valid
the post office – are good, and banking and exchange facilities identity document to enter Italy.
are widely available. Italy is generally safe for visitors and there Citizens from other countries
is a visible police presence should a crisis arise. Personal belong­ should contact their Italian
ings should nevertheless be watched at all times. Many shops consulate for visa information.
and offices close at lunch for the siesta, reopening in the late
afternoon. Pharmacies are a useful first stop for health advice. Personal Security
Although petty crime in the
cities is frequent, violent crime
When to Visit deals exclusively with an in Italy is rare. However, it is
Italy’s towns and historic individual town. All can help common for people to raise
sites are extremely popular with hotel reservations and their voices aggressively during
attractions and it is worth local tour guides. They also an argument. Usually, remaining
considering this when planning provide free maps and guide- calm and being polite will help
your trip. Rome, Florence, and books in several languages. to defuse the situation.
Venice are all crowded from Unofficial tour guides, taxi
spring to October and it is Opening Hours drivers, or strangers who try to
advisable to reserve a hotel advise you on accommodations
well in advance. In August the Italian museums are gradually may expect money in return.
cities are generally slightly less conforming to new regu lations, Women traveling alone in
busy, and the seaside resorts particularly in the north, opening Italy are likely to meet with a lot
fill up. June and September daily from about 9am to 7pm, of attention, although this is
can be as hot as midsummer, but some still close on Mondays. often more of an irritation than
but the beaches are less In summer, many museums stay a danger. Staff at hotels and
crowded. The skiing season open longer at weekends. In restaurants generally treat their
runs from December to Easter. winter, opening times are more single female customers with
limited. It is advisable to check extra care and attention.
beforehand. Archaeological
Tourist Information
sites usually open from 9am to
The national tourist board, ENIT, an hour before sunset, Tuesday Police
has branches in capital cities to Sunday. Churches are open There are several different police
worldwide and offers general from about 7am to 12:30pm forces in Italy and each one
information on Italy. Locally, and 4 to 7pm, but they often fulfills a particular role. Both the
there are two types of tourist prefer not to admit tourists state police, the polizia and the
office: an EPT (Ente Provinciale di during services. carabinieri, deal with crime in
Turismo) has information on its Visits to some of the more general and they also conduct
town and surrounding province, popular tourist sights, such as random security checks. The
whereas an APT (Azienda di Leonardo da Vinci’s painting of vigili urbani, the municipal traffic
Promozione Turistica) or a PIT The Last Supper in Milan, must police, issue fines for traffic and
(Punto di Informazioni Turistiche) be organized in advance. parking offences. If you have

The Climate of Italy
ROME VENICE
The Italian peninsula has a
varied climate falling into °C/ºF °C/ºF
three distinct geographical 29/84 28/82
regions. Cold Alpine winters 18/64 19/66 22/72 18/64 18/64
and warm, increasingly wet 13/55 12/54 17/63
summers characterize the 9/48 4/40 7/44 9/48 7/44
northern regions. In the 0/32
extensive Po Valley, arid 6 10 7 5 7 9 4 2
summers contrast with hrs hrs hrs hrs hrs hrs hrs hrs
freezing, damp winters. The 51 21 95 87 112 108 134 90
rest of Italy has long, and mm mm mm mm mm mm mm mm
often very hot, summers month Apr Jul Oct Jan month Apr Jul Oct Jan
and mild, sunny winters.





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anything stolen, you should go traditional social formalities. and are usually open all day,
to the nearest police station and Ciao should only be used as and also into the evening
file a report (denuncia). a greeting for familiar friends, in resorts. However, they
otherwise piacere (pleased to quite often tend to have less
meet you), buon giorno (good favorable exchange rates and
Emergency Services
day), or buona sera (good charge a higher commission
In case of emergencies while evening) are polite greetings. than banks. Post offices usually
on vacation, the appropriate Say arrivederci on parting. have the lowest charges.
numbers to call are listed in Kissing on the cheeks is
the directory below. common among friends, but Communications
shake hands with strangers.
Tipping of taxi drivers and Post offices open from about
Health Issues waiting staff in restaurants is 8am to 2pm weekdays, and
No inoculations are needed for not common practice among from 8am to noon on Saturday.
Italy, but it is advisable to carry Italians. However, when a service Main post offices are usually
mosquito repellent in the charge is added to a restaurant open from 8am to 6pm or 7pm
summer months. If emergency bill, it is non-negotiable. Hotel non-stop. The red mailboxes
medical treatment becomes porters expect a reasonable tip (blue in the Vatican City) usually
necessary, you should go to the if they have been helpful. have two slots labeled per la
Pronto Soccorso (emergency città (for the city only) and
room) of the nearest hospital. tutte le altre destinazioni (for
Various medical products, Facilities for the Disabled all other destinations). The
including homeopathic Public awareness of the needs Italian postal service was once
medicines, are available in any of the disabled is improving renowned for its unreliability,
pharmacy (farmacia), but a quickly in Italy. CO.IN.Sociale but has improved in recent
prescription may be required. (Consorzio Cooperative years. The standard mail service
Thanks to a night rota (servizio Integrate) provides information is called prioritaria.
notturno) – listed in the local on facilities for the disabled. The few public telephones
pages of daily newspapers and remaining are generally card-
on pharmacy doors – there is Banking and Currency operated. A telephone card
always a pharmacy open in all (scheda telefonica) can be
cities and most towns. Italy has used the euro since purchased from bars, newspaper
2002 (see p23). Banks open kiosks, post offices, and
between about 8:30am and tobacconists (tabacchi). A corner
Language and Etiquette 1:30pm Monday to Friday. of the card must be broken off
People in Italy are very dress- Most also open from 2:15 to before use. Alternatively, many
conscious and unusual or risqué 3pm or 2:30 to 3:30pm. towns have telephone offices
clothes get noticed. Strict dress Electronic exchange (Telefoni) with low rates for
codes are enforced in many machines, with multilingual long-distance calls. Here, you
places of worship, where your instructions, are located at all are assigned a booth and pay
torso, knees, and upper arms major airports, train stations, after calls are completed. Credit
should be covered. Forms of and banks. Bureaux de change cards can only be used to make
address are still governed by can be found in main towns, calls at major airports.

DIRECTORY
Tourist Offices ENIT UK Canada Emergency
Tel 020-7408 1254. Via Zara 30, Rome. Numbers
APT Florence ∑ italiantouristboard. Tel 06-854 44 39 37.
Via Manzoni 16. co.uk ∑ canada.it General Emergency
Tel 113.
Tel 055-233 20. ENIT US UK
APT Milan Tel 212-245 5618. Medical Emergency
∑ italiantourism.com Via XX Settembre 80, Tel 118.
Galleria Vittorio Emanuele Rome. Tel 06-42 20 00 01. Police (Carabinieri)
II. Tel 02-84 45 55 55. PIT Rome
Via Nazionale. ∑ gov.uk/government/ Tel 112.
APT Venice Tel 06-06 08. world/organisations/ Facilities for the
Castello 5050. Embassies british-embassy-rome Disabled
Tel 041-523 59 13. US
Australia CO.IN.Sociale
ENIT Rome Via A. Bosio 5, Rome. Via Veneto 121, Rome. Via Enrico Giglioli 54A,
Via Marghera 2. Tel 06-85 27 21. Tel 06-467 41. Rome. Tel 06-712 9011.
Tel 06-497 11. ∑ enit.it ∑ italy.embassy.gov.au ∑ italy.usembassy.gov ∑ coinsociale.it





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Travel Information enjoyable way to negotiate the
narrow streets of historic town
Italy has transportation systems of varying efficiency, from centers. Trams still run in some
the modern road, bus, and rail networks of the north to the cities such as Milan and Rome.
slower and more antiquated systems of the south. Numerous Taxis must be met at official
airlines operate flights to the country’s major airports. taxi stands or reserved by
telephone; in theory, you
Highways are good, but busy at weekends and peak periods, cannot hail a taxi in the street.
and delays are common at Alpine passes. Train travel is Most Italian cities and towns
inexpensive and services generally frequent, although they have a bus system which is
can be overcrowded during local holidays. The major Italian inexpensive, comprehensive,
cities have a number of transportation options and that most and as efficient as traffic will
suited to the tourist varies from place to place: the bus is allow. Bus stops are known as
fermate, and buses (autobus)
more practical in Rome and the metro in Milan. usually run from about 6am to
midnight. Train stations are
Sicily, and the Amalfi Coast. invariably linked to the city
Flying to Italy
Several firms organize fly-drive centers by shuttle buses. Tickets
Flight destinations and routes packages. In winter, ski (biglietti) must usually be bought
change frequently, but United packages to many Alpine before boarding the bus, and
Airlines, Delta, and American resorts are available. Specialty are available from kiosks, bars,
Airlines all operate regular walking, gastronomy, and art and tabacchi (tobacconists).
flights to Italy from the United tours are increasingly common. Buses are boarded via the front
States. Air Canada flies from and rear doors and exited via
several Canadian airports, and the central doors. Tickets are
Qantas has flights from various Domestic Flights validated by being punched
Australian airports to Rome. Alitalia, Air One, and Ryanair run in machines on board.
Alitalia offers regular services regular services between many
to the United States and Europe. Italian cities. Long-haul
It may be more convenient and passengers can transfer Getting Around Venice
less expensive for long-haul to domestic flights in Rome The water buses (vaporetti) are
passengers to take a budget and Milan. an entertaining form of public
flight to London, Frankfurt, Paris, As internal flights can be transportation in Venice,
or Amsterdam before continuing expensive, and busy at peak although most journeys within
their journey to Italy from there. periods, trains are a good the city can easily be covered
Meridiana also has direct flights alternative. Flights to airports on foot. The main route for the
to Italy from New York. in the north can be disrupted water buses is the Grand Canal.
Low-cost airlines easyJet by fog in the winter. They also link the city to the
and Ryanair offer flights from islands in the lagoon. Tickets
various UK airports to numerous Traveling in Cities can be purchased from kiosks
Italian destinations according at each stop, and the main
to the season. Milan and Rome both have routes run every 10 to 20
Rome’s Leonardo da Vinci a metro system known as la minutes until early evening.
(Fiumicino) and Milan’s metropolitana (metro for short). For general inquiries, contact
Malpensa are the key airports Rome’s network amounts to just the ACTV Information Office.
for long-haul flights into Italy. two lines – A and B – which Gondolas are a luxury form
Milan’s Linate airport handles converge at Stazione Termini, the of transportation. Sharing can
European flights. city’s central train station. Several make it cheaper. Before
stations are useful for key sights, boarding, agree on a price
but the system is designed for with the gondolier. Traghetti
Charters and commuters and carriages are (gondola ferries), on the other
Package Deals
usually stiflingly hot in summer. hand, are an inexpensive,
Package holidays to Italy are A third metro line is under convenient way of crossing
usually less costly than traveling construction, with the first the Grand Canal.
independently, unless you are stretch open in 2014. For those with sufficient
on a tight budget and are Milan has three principal lines funds, the most practical means
prepared to make use of youth – MM1 (the red line), MM2 of traveling around Venice is
hostels and campsites. Rome, (green), and MM3 (yellow) – by water taxi. These motor-
Florence, and Venice are often that give easy access to the boats run from 16 water taxi
offered as separate or linked city’s main sights. ranks and can reach the airport
package deals, and many Cars are a liability in all city in 20 minutes. Extra charges are
operators have packages to centers and many have a large made for luggage, waiting,
Tuscany and Umbria, the limited-traffic zone. Walking is night service, and calling out
Lakes, the Riviera, Naples, usually the easiest and most a taxi.




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Rail Travel Traveling by Bus pre-booked with firms that
The bulk of Italy’s rail network is Long-distance buses (pullman have branches in Italy. Local
an integrated partially privatized or corriere) operate between firms may be less expensive
system operated by the Ferrovie towns and can be less than the international firms.
dello Stato (FS). In addition, the expensive and more frequent Most airports have rental offices
railway company Italo operates than the trains. Tickets can be on site (see Directory below).
fast trains on the Milan–Rome– purchased on board, and Visitors from outside the EU
Naples line. Train journeys into services usually depart from need an international license,
Italy from other parts of Europe a town’s train station or main but in practice not all rental
wind through the Alps and are square. Buses in some areas may firms insist on this.
an exciting way to travel. Alta be run by several companies
Velocità (high-speed trains) and (see Directory below). Ferry Services
Eurostar require pre-booking of
seats. These and intercity (IC) Traveling by Road Italy’s large number of off-shore
trains only stop at main stations islands means that it has a well-
and require the payment of a A car is invaluable for touring developed network of ferries.
supplement (supplemento). the Italian countryside. Drivers Boats of various kinds also
Regionale trains make more stops should take into account operate on the Italian Lakes.
and require no supplement. high gas (benzina) prices, the Ferries depart for Sicily
The most useful pass for difficulty of parking in towns, from Naples and Reggio di
visitors is the Interrail One and the Italians’ often erratic Calabria. They also run from
Country, which gives unlimited approach to driving. Italy has the mainland and from Sicily
travel for 3–8 consecutive or a good network of highways, to surrounding islands and
non-consecutive days over a but most have tollbooths, archipelagoes, for example
one-month period, with special often leading to congestion. from Naples to Capri and
rates for those under 26. This Care should be taken at night Ischia. Boats for Sardinia leave
pass can be purchased at most when many traffic lights switch from Civitavecchia near
mainline stations and various to flashing amber. Car theft Rome, Livorno, and Genoa.
agencies outside Italy. It is is rife in Italy and valuables There are car ferry services from
available only to non-residents. should not be left unattended. Brindisi to Corfu and Patras in
Before traveling, all tickets Car rental (autonoleggio) is Greece. In summer, these
need to be validated in one expensive in Italy, and should ferries can get very crowded,
of the yellow machines found be organized beforehand so make sure you reserve well
on the platform. through fly-drive deals or in advance.
DIRECTORY
Airlines Delta Tel 041-24 24. Sita
Tel 02-38 59 10 87. ∑ actv.it
Air Canada Tel 800-221 1212 (US). Tel 800-37 37 60.
Tel 1-888 247 2262 ∑ delta.com Consorzio Motoscafi ∑ fsbusitalia.it
(Canada). easyJet Rialto (Water Taxis)
∑ aircanada.com ∑ easyjet.com Tel 041-522 23 03. Car Rental
Air One Meridiana Rail Travel Avis
Tel 89-24 44. Tel 89 29 28. Tel 199-10 01 33.
Tel +39 (091) 255 10 47 ∑ meridiana.it Alta Velocità ∑ avisautonoleggio.it
(from abroad). Qantas See Ferrovie dello Stato.
∑ flyairone.it Tel 02-91 29 48 01. Eurostar Europcar
Alitalia Tel 13 13 13 (Australia). ∑ raileurope.com (US). Tel 199-30 70 30.
Tel 06-22 22. ∑ qantas.com ∑ eurostar.com (UK). ∑ europcar.it
Tel 800-223 5730 (US). Ryanair Ferrovie dello Stato
Tel 08714 241 424 (UK). ∑ ryanair.com Tel 89-20 21. Hertz
∑ alitalia.com United Airlines ∑ trenitalia.com Tel 199-11 22 11.
American Airlines Tel 02-69 63 37 07. Italo ∑ hertz.it
Tel 199-257 300. Tel 1-800-864 83 31 (US). Tel 06-0708. Maggiore
Tel 800-433 7300 (US). ∑ united.com ∑ italotreno.it Tel 199-15 11 20 (Rome).
∑ aa.com Getting Around Bus Companies ∑ maggiore.it
British Airways Venice
Tel 02-69 63 36 02. ACTV Information Cotral Sixt
Tel 0844-493 0787 (UK). Office Tel 800-17 44 71 (Rome). Tel 06-65 21 11 (Rome).
∑ ba.com Piazzale Roma, Venice. ∑ cotralspa.it ∑ sixt.it





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Shopping for which Italy is famous.
Stainless steel and copper
Italy is known for its quality designer goods, ranging from kitchenware is a favorite
chic clothing and sleek cars to stylish household items. There buy with visitors.
is a strong tradition of craftsmanship, often from family-run
businesses, and there are numerous markets selling regional Regional Crafts
specialties. Apart from the town markets, it is not a country Traditional crafts are still
for bargains, but the joys of window-shopping will offer practised in Italy and range from
plenty of compensation. delicate lacework and glassware
in Venice to leatherwork,
jewelry, and marbled paper in
Opening Hours Jewelry Florence. Elaborate Tuscan
Opening times for shops are Glitzy gold jewelry is very popular pottery, hand-painted dishes
usually 9:30am–1pm, and 3:30 in Italy and every gioielleria from around Amalfi, and De
or 5–8pm. In many places, (jewelry shop) will offer a wide Simone’s stylized designer
stores are traditionally closed selection of items. Elegant, classic plates from Sicily are among
on Monday mornings, but jewelry can be purchased at Cusi many ceramic styles available.
shopkeepers are increasingly in Milan, while Venice’s smartest Among the best craft work-
working more flexible hours. jewelers are Missiaglia and Nardi shops in Rome is Spazio
in Piazza San Marco. Bulgari, Artigiano, which specializes in
known for its beautiful jewelry original, handmade wood, glass,
Department Stores and watches, has a number of and terra-cotta items. Naples’
Department stores are often retail outlets, as does Buccellati, Il Cantuccio della Ceramica is
open without a lunchbreak famous for its delicately engraved the place to go for ceramics.
(orario continuato) from 9am designs inspired by the Italian In Venice, the best place to
until 8pm Monday to Saturday. Renaissance. For reasonably buy local blue- and claret-
La Rinascente stores are good priced jewelry try Gioie in Rome. colored glass is the island
for ready-to-wear clothes, Naples has several jewelers’, and of Murano. Here, Barovier e
haberdashery, and perfumes. goldsmiths’ shops where Toso produces original designs.
traditional engraving and cameo Some of the most expensive
work can still be seen. Unusual glass in Venice can be bought
Designer Fashion and original items can often be from Venini. Carnival masks,
Italy is famous worldwide for found in artisan shops (oreficeria). available from Tragicomica,
its fashion industry. Milan, its and traditional Burano lace
designer capital, is stormed each Accessories are also popular buys.
year by Italians and foreigners The Etruscan art of working
alike in search of the latest cat- Stylish Italian leather shoes and alabaster is best seen in Volterra.
walk novelty. Giò Moretti, in Via handbags have an international Handmade perfumes and
della Spiga, features articles by market, and are a popular toiletries, and hand-painted
the top names, as well as pieces purchase of visitors to all parts majolica are favorite purchases
by up-and-coming designers. of the country. Ferragamo, the in Tuscany. Sicily is well known
Retail outlets of famous well-known Italian designer, has for its ceramics, and for
designers can be found in most stores in most Italian cities, traditional puppets. The latter,
Italian city centers. In Venice, offering elegant, classic shoes. now rare, can still be found in
Armani and others have stylish Leather bags and luggage are antique shops.
shops just off the Piazza San available at La Valigeria, and
Marco. Rome’s most famous Mandarina Duck bags are sold Gourmet Foods
designer is Valentino. His and in boutiques throughout Italy.
other top fashion names Ottica Nuova di Malizia Many of Italy’s regional food
dominate Rome’s Via Condotti, Michela sells trendy sunglasses, specialties are world-famous:
Via de’ Tornabuoni in Florence, and Borsalino is the place for Parma ham, Chianti wine, olive
and the Chiaia district of Naples. top-quality classic hats. oil, and grappa. Regional sweets,
One-off pieces by local including Sienese panforte and
designers can also be found. Sicilian marzipan, are also well-
Clothing Stores
In Naples, Marinella has a known, as are cheeses such as
Less expensive clothes are store selling her famous ties Gorgonzola from Lombardy and
available in high-street stores, worn by many celebrities. Parmesan from Emilia-Romagna.
where styles tend to be more Other delicacies include truffles
conventional or clas sical. Sales Household Items from Piedmont and Umbria. The
(saldi), are held during summer Lombardy region produces the
and winter. The rare second- Household stores in cities and famous panettone cake, and
hand shops may seem pricey, towns throughout the country amaretto biscuits are made in the
but the quality of clothes is good. sell the well-designed utensils Veneto. Vesuvio chocolate with




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rum from Naples is also the frutti vendolo. You can buy at about 1:30pm. Bargaining
delicious. To make the most of cakes at the pasticceria, milk at is not usual when buying
Italian food, try to buy what is in the latteria, and pasta, ham, and food, but it is worth asking
season. Mushrooms and grapes cheese at the well-stocked for a discount (sconto) for
are best in the fall, whereas alimentari and delicatessens. clothes and other items.
spring is the season for asparagus, To buy wine, head for the Larger markets have stands
strawberries, and artichokes. In enoteca, vineria, or vinaio, where piled high with secondhand
winter, cauliflower and broccoli you can sometimes taste the clothes, and many markets sell
are at their best, as are lemons products first. Italy is a major fake Ray-Ban sunglasses, Lacoste
from Amalfi and Sicilian blood wine producer and stores stock T-shirts, and Levi’s jeans. Popular
oranges. Summer is the time a wide range of labels, from the gifts from Italy include the
for plums, pears, and cherries, prized Barolo and Barbaresco ceramics and wooden kitchen
as well as zucchini, eggplant, vintages to the inexpensive but items sold in most markets.
tomatoes, and melon. palatable local vino da tavola. Specialty markets can be
found in many cities. Milan’s
antique market, the Mercatone
Food Stores Markets dell’Antiquariato, is held on
Specialty stores are the most All Italian towns have at least the last Sunday of the month,
interesting way to shop for food one market a week. Large and the Via Sannio and Porta
in Italy. A fornaio has the best towns have small, daily markets Portese markets of Rome are
bread and a macellaio has the in addition to a weekly flea a mecca for secondhand
finest meat (go to a norcineria for market, usually held on a clothes. The fish market by
pork products). Vegetables are Sunday. Traders set up early the Rialto Bridge in Venice is
freshest from market stands or and usually start to clear away an interesting place to visit.
DIRECTORY
Department Valentino Missiaglia Ottica Nuova di
Stores Via Montenapoleone 20, Procuratie Vecchie, Piazza Malizia Michela
Milan. Tel 02-276 006 182. San Marco 125, Venice. Via P. Rossi 38, Milan.
La Rinascente
Via dei Tosinghi 52r, Tel 041-522 44 64. Tel 02-648 03 10.
Galleria Alberto Sordi,
Piazza Colonna, Rome. Florence. Nardi La Valigeria
Tel 055-29 31 42. Procuratie Nuove, Piazza
Tel 06-678 42 09. Via Cesare Baronio 18,
San Marco 69, Venice.
Piazza Fiume, Rome. Jewelry Tel 041-522 57 33. Rome. Tel 06-788 67 54.
Tel 06-884 12 31.
Buccellati Accessories Regional Crafts
Piazza della Repubblica 1,
Mercerie dell’Orologio
Florence. Borsalino Barovier e Toso
Tel 055-21 91 13. 214, Venice. Piazza del Popolo 20, Fondamenta Vetrai 28,
Tel 041-522 65 49.
Piazza Duomo, Milan. Rome. Tel 06-32 65 08 38. Murano. Tel 041-73 90 49.
Lungarno Acciaiuoli 3/5,
Tel 02-885 21. Galleria Vittorio Emanuele
Florence. II 92, Milan. Il Cantuccio della
Designer Fashion Tel 055-21 55 02. Tel 02-890 15 436. Ceramica
Via Montenapoleone 23, Via Benedetto Croce 38,
Armani Ferragamo
Milan. Tel 02-76 00 21 54. Naples. Tel 081-552 58 57.
Via Condotti 79, Rome. Via Condotti 65, Rome.
Tel 06-699 14 61. Bulgari Tel 06-678 11 30. Spazio Artigiano
Via de Tornabuoni 48r, Via Condotti 10, Rome. Via de’ Tornabuoni 16r, Vicolo dei Serpenti 13,
Florence.
Florence. Tel 06-69 62 61. Tel 055-29 21 23. Rome. Tel 06-47 82 48 60.
Tel 055-21 90 41. Via Monte Napoleone, Tragicomica
Via Montenapoleone 3,
Via Monte Napoleone 2, Milan. Tel 02-77 70 01. Milan. Tel 02-76 00 00 54. Calle dei Nomboli,
Milan. Tel 02-76 00 32 34. Cusi San Polo 2800, Venice.
Mandarina Duck
Galleria Cavour, 7/ABCDE, Corso Monforte 23, Milan. Via dei due Macelli 59, Tel 041-72 11 02.
Naples. Tel 051-238 19. Tel 02-76 28 12 93. Rome. Tel 06-67 86 414. Venini
Giò Moretti Gioie Marinella Piazzetta dei Leoncini,
Via della Spiga 4, Milan. Via di Grotta Rossa 126A, Riviera di Chiaia 287A, San Marco 314, Venice.
Tel 02-76 00 31 86. Rome. Tel 06-33 26 03 51. Naples. Tel 081-245 11 82. Tel 041-522 40 45.


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436  IT AL Y AND GREECE

Entertainment outdoor concert venues. The
1st-century Teatro Romano
With world-class sporting and a host of cultural events, Italy (see pp412–13) in Verona also
has something to offer everyone. The cities boast a varied stages open-air concerts.
and lively nightlife, while its Riviera resorts, hill villages, and
classical sites are ideal for the avid sightseer or walker. Skiing Opera
in the Alps, water sports of all kinds on the coast, and pony Opera is one of the great cultural
trekking in the countryside, are tourist favorites. The open-air delights of Italy, whether experi-
theater and music performances in summer are world- enced in the magnificent opera
famous. Or simply join the Italians in their traditional houses of La Scala in Milan or
evening stroll, the passeggiata, followed by a drink at Venice’s Teatro La Fenice, or in a
a bar or café in a picturesque piazza. spectacular open-air venue like
Verona’s superb Arena. The opera
house of Naples, San Carlo, also
boasts world-class performers.
Entertainment Listings Tickets for popular music Rome’s Teatro dell’Opera has a
Information about what’s on in concerts are normally sold late winter season and an open-
Rome can be found in Trovaroma, through record and music air summer festival in the Terme
the weekly Thursday supplement shops, whose names are di Caracalla archaeological park.
to the La Repubblica newspaper. displayed on the publicity The opera season at the
Where Rome magazine, available material distributed. Verona Arena runs from the first
for free in hotels, has up-to-date Whereas tickets for classical week in July until the beginning
entertainment listings. concerts are sold on the spot of September, and every year
In Florence, the monthly for same-day performances, features a lavish production of
magazine Firenze Spettacolo has opera tickets are purchased Verdi’s Aida.
restaurant and café guides, as months in advance. Prices vary
well as details of concerts, significantly according to the Clubs and Discos
exhibitions, and sporting events. artists scheduled to perform
Milano Mese is a free brochure and the type of venue. Cities and resorts in Italy are
listing concerts and other packed with trendy discos, and
cultural events held in and Entertainment Venues upscale night-clubs. Gilda, with
around the city. its two elegant restaurants and
Un Ospite di Venezia (A Guest Rome’s city churches and the large dancefloor, is a favorite
in Venice), produced by the Parco della Musica are favorite with Rome’s jet set. A younger
Hotels’ Association, comes venues for classical music lovers. crowd frequents Goa. In the
out fortnightly in summer Venice also makes good use of summer months, the nightlife
and monthly in winter and its most magnificent churches shifts to the Roman seaside
is free. as concert halls. La Pietà was resort of Fregene.
If you can read Italian, Vivaldi’s own church and is Currently attracting the
regional newspapers are also still used for classical music fashion crowd of Milan is the
a good source of information performances. In Milan, by Hollywood club. Venice’s
about current events. Local contrast, the San Siro football historic casino Casinò di
tourist offices display posters stadium is often used as a Venezia draws well-dressed
advertising forthcoming events. concert venue along with gamblers from far and wide.
the 5,400-capacity Pala AJ. There are a number of discos
at Mestre on the mainland.
Tickets
Open-Air Venues
Making advance reservations
for concerts is not the custom During the summer, Italy’s Italian Festivals
in Italy, where decisions are historic buildings and classical The distinctive regionalism
often made on the spur of ruins become dramatic settings which has survived in modern
the moment. To guarantee a for open-air events. Concerts Italy is marked by the diverse
seat you may have to visit the are held in the grounds of local festivals celebrated each
box office in person, although Rome’s Villa Celimontana and year. For example, on April 25,
online agencies such as Villa Ada, while Greek and Venetians commemorate St.
Ticketone (www.ticketone.it) Roman plays are staged in Mark with a gondola race, and
and Listicket (www.listicket.it) the restored theater of Ostia on June 24, Florence relives its
sell tickets for many events. Antica, southwest of Rome. past with a procession of people
You may have to pay an In Venice the gardens of the in 16th-century costumes. The
advance booking supplement, Baroque palace, Ca’Rezzonico, Sienese celebrate the Palio – a
or prevendita, which is and the ornate, enclosed bareback horse race dating from
generally about 10 percent courtyard of the Doge’s Palace 1283 – on July 2 and August 16
of the ticket price. (see pp418–19) are used as each year. Traditional dress is




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worn in the processions and Tasting Places, for example, trips are run by the Italian
pre-race pageants. Other festas organizes wine tours and week- Birds Protection League
celebrate the harvesting of local long courses in Italian cuisine. (LIPU). Cyclists will find miles
produce: the wine festivals held The course locations include of flat and scenic cycling
in September and October the Veneto, Sicily, Tuscany, routes in the Po Delta.
in Chianti, Tuscany, and the and Umbria.
Castelli Romani south of Rome, The Società Dante Alighieri
are popular with visitors. provides courses in the Italian Water Sports
Many events have an language, literature, history Most lakeside towns and
international flavor, such as of art, and culture. There are many seaside resorts in Italy
the film festivals held in Venice both full- and part-time rent out sailboats, canoes,
(Aug–Sep), Taormina, (Jul–Aug), courses available, for every and windsurfing equipment
and Rome (Oct). From May to level of ability. and lessons are often available.
June, Florence hosts an arts The Gruppo Archeologico Longer courses in a variety
festival and Syracuse celebrates Romano runs digs in various of water sports are organized
Greek drama. Ravello, near regions. There are summer and by clubs, which usually
Naples, hosts an international winter trips for both adults require membership.
festival of music each May. and children. The Federazione Italiana
Masked Venetians spill onto For those with an interest Attività Subacquee runs
the streets during Carnival in in more energetic activities, underwater diving courses.
February, and on summer the Federazione Arrampicata Most travel agents have a
evenings throughout Italy, Sportiva Italiana has a list of selection of sailing vacations.
tourists can join in street mountain-climbing schools that Swimming pools are
dancing at local festas. organize climbs for people of all expensive in Italy, but it is
abilities. Ski holidays are best cheaper if you pay for a certain
arranged with agents offering number of sessions or for a
Special Interest Vacations package deals. Trekking short membership. Water
Culinary holidays run by excursions can be organized parks are popular and provide
English-speaking experts in with Club Alpino Italiano (CAI). pools, slides, wave machines,
Italian cooking are very popular. Nature walks and bird-watching and games.
DIRECTORY
Entertainment Teatro dell’Opera Hollywood Italian Birds
Venues Piazza Beniamino Gigli 7, Corso Como 15, Milan. Protection League
Rome. Tel 06-48 16 01. Tel 02-659 89 96. Via Udine 3A,
Ca’Rezzonico ∑ operaroma.it 43100 Parma.
Fondamenta Rezzonico Pala AJ Tel 0521-27 30 43.
3136, Venice. Teatro La Fenice Piazza Carlo Stuparich 1, ∑ lipu.it
Tel 041-241 01 00. San Marco Campo, San Milan.
Fantin 1965, Venice. Società Dante
La Pietà Special Interest Alighieri
Calle della Pietà, Venice. Tel 041-78 65 11. Vacations Piazza Firenze 27, 00186
Tel 041-522 21 71. Teatro San Carlo Rome.
Ostia Antica Via San Carlo 98/f, Naples. Club Alpino Italiano Tel 06-687 36 94.
Via Galvani 10,
Viale dei Romagnoli 717, Tel 081-797 21 11. 00153 Rome. ∑ ladante.it
Rome. Tel 06-565 00 71. Verona Arena Tel 06-57 28 71 43. Tasting Places
Pala AJ Via Dietro Anfiteatro 6/b, ∑ cairoma.it PO Box 38174,
Piazza Stuparich 1, Milan. Verona. Tel 045-800 51 51. Federazione London W10 5ZP,
Parco della Musica Clubs and Discos Arrampicata Sportiva England.
Tel 0208-964 5333.
Viale de Coubertin, Rome. Italiana ∑ tastingplaces.com
Tel 06-80 24 11. Casinò di Venezia Via del Terrapieno 27,
Calle Vendramin, Bologna.
San Siro Tel 051-601 48 90. Water Sports
Piazzale Angelo Moratti, Cannaregio 2040. ∑ federclimb.it Federazione Italiana
Milan. Tel 02-48 79 82 01. Tel 041-529 71 11. Attività Subacquee
Gilda Gruppo Archeologico Via A. Dona 8,
Opera Via Mario de’ Fiori 97, Romano
Via Contessa di Bertinoro 6, 20124 Milan.
Rome. Tel 06-67 84 838.
Teatro alla Scala Rome. Tel 02-670 50 05.
Via Filodrammatici 2, Goa Tel 06-638 52 56. ∑ fias.it
Milan. Tel 02-887 91. Via Libetta 13, Rome. ∑ gruppo
∑ teatroallascala.org Tel 06-574 82 77. archeologico.it



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438  IT AL Y

Where to Stay

The Vatican and Price Guide
Rome Trastevere Prices are based on one night’s stay in
high season for a standard double room,
Hotel Trastevere € inclusive of service charges and taxes.
Around Piazza Navona Budget Map C3 € under €120
Sole al Biscione €€ Via Luciano Manara 24, 00153 €€ €120 to €300
Historic Tel 06-581 47 13 €€€ over €300
Via del Biscione 76, 00186 ∑ hoteltrastevere.net
Tel 06-688 068 73 Simple, clean, and large rooms are
∑ solealbiscione.it available at this hotel, which also Florence
This basic but charming hotel offers a good breakfast spread.
claims to be the oldest in Rome. Antica Dimora Firenze €€
It also allows pets. Free Wi-Fi. Arco del Lauro €€ B&B
B&B Via San Gallo 72/r, 50129
Teatro di Pompeo €€ Via dell’Arco de’ Tolomei 27, 00153 Tel 055-462 72 96
Historic Map C3 Tel 06-978 403 50 ∑ johanna.it
Largo del Pallaro 8, 00186 ∑ arcodellauro.it Canopy beds, antique furniture,
Tel 06-683 001 70 This tiny hotel in a picturesque and terracotta floors set this B&B
∑ hotelteatrodipompeo.it medieval location offers simple apart. Laptops and free Wi-Fi.
Built on the ruins of Pompeii’s but lovely rooms.
ancient theater, this hotel has Brunelleschi €€
simple rooms and friendly staff. Villa Riari €€ Historic
Budget Piazza Sant’Elisabetta 3, 50122
Grand Hotel de La Minerve €€€ Via dei Riari 44, 00153 Tel 055-273 70
Luxury Map C3 Tel 06-688 061 22 ∑ hotelbrunelleschi.it
Piazza della Minerva 69, 00186 ∑ villariari.it Housed in a Byzantine tower, the
Tel 06-695 201 This religious center with a Brunelleschi has opulent rooms.
∑ grandhoteldelaminerve.com pleasant garden offers simple
Excellent views from nearly every but clean and quiet rooms. Grand Hotel Minerva €€
room. The decor is luxurious, and Historic
the service is excellent. Piazza di Santa Maria Novella 16,
Aventine and Lateran 50123
€€
Northeast Rome Domus Aventina Map D4 Tel 055-272 30
Modern
∑ grandhotelminerva.com
Via di Santa Prisca 11b, 00153 A panoramic terrace with a pool
DK Choice Tel 06-574 61 35 gives a modern touch to one of
the city’s oldest hotels.
∑ hoteldomusaventina.com
Hassler €€€ A well-located hotel, with many
Luxury Map D2 attractions within walking Relais Il Campanile €€
Piazza Trinità dei Monti 6, 00187 distance. Quiet and simple rooms B&B
Tel 06-699 340 open onto a lush courtyard. Via Ricasoli 10, 50125
∑ hotelhasslerroma.com Tel 055-211 688
The discreet service, plush San Anselmo €€ ∑ relaiscampanile.it
furnishings, and stunning Boutique Map D4 Quaint rooms with wrought-iron
rooms make the Hassler a Piazza San Anselmo 2, 00153 features in a 17th-century palazzo.
favorite with celebrities. Guests Tel 06-570 057
can dine at the Michelin-starred ∑ aventinohotels.com DK Choice
Imàgora restaurant or enjoy a Four-poster beds and clawfoot
cocktail in the Hassler Bar. tubs are available at this tasteful Relais Uffizi €€
hotel that is close to many sights. Historic
Chiasso del Buco 16, 50122
Tel 055-267 62 46
∑ relaisuffizi.it
Situated behind the Piazza
della Signoria, the Relais Uffizi
is housed in a restored 16th-
century palace. The rooms are
large, bright, and charmingly
decorated. A buffet breakfast is
served in a room overlooking
the piazza. Pets are welcome.
Residenza Johanna €€
Pensione
Via Bonifacio Lupo 14, 50129
Tel 055-481 896
∑ johanna.it
This tiny and charming hotel is
Plush furnishings in the Grand Hotel de La Minerve, Rome fantastic value. Free parking.
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TR A VELERS ’ NEEDS  439


DK Choice
MILAN: Antica Locanda
Leonardo €
Boutique
Corso Magenta 78, 20123
Tel 02-48 01 41 97
∑ anticalocandaleonardo.com
Peacefully located in an elegant
19th-century palazzo, this
family-run hotel has well-
decorated rooms overlooking
a charming inner garden. The
staff are helpful and friendly.
Antiques and gilt mirrors adorn the rooms at Palazzo Abadessa, Venice
MILAN: Antica Locanda
SAN MARCO: Gritti Palace €€€ Solferino €€
Venice Boutique Map D4 Boutique
Santa Maria del Giglio 2467, 30124 Via Castelfidardo 2, 20121
CANNAREGIO: Tel 041-79 46 11 Tel 02-657 01 29
Palazzo Abadessa €€ ∑ thegrittipalace.com ∑ anticalocandasolferino.it
Historic Map C2 Stay in an iconic palazzo dating A welcoming guesthouse
Calle Priuli 4011, 30131 back to 1475 but featuring most with eclectic old-world charm.
Tel 041-241 37 84 modern comforts. Small pets are allowed.
∑ abadessa.com
A charming 16th-century palace DK Choice PADUA: Augustus Terme €€
with antiques in its large rooms. Luxury
SANTA CROCE: Al Sole € Viale Stazione 150, 35036
CASTELLO: Pensione Wildner €€ Historic Map C4 Tel 049-79 32 00
Pensione Map F4 Santa Croce 136, 30124 ∑ hotelaugustus.com
Riva degli Schiavoni 4161, 30122 Tel 041-244 03 28 Comfortable hotel with opulent
Tel 041-522 74 63 ∑ alsolehotels.com rooms, thermal swimming pools,
∑ hotelwildner.com Housed in Palazzo Marcello, and a reputable restaurant.
Family-run establishment with a 15th-century palace with a
wonderful views from the terrace. beautiful façade and marble- PORTOFINO: Belmond Hotel
floored reception area, Al Sole Splendido €€€
CASTELLO: Londra Palace €€ offers well-appointed rooms. Luxury
Boutique Map F4 Enjoy the rich breakfast spread Salita Baratta 16, 16034
Riva degli Schiavoni 4171, 30122 served in a patio garden. Tel 0185-26 78 01
Tel 041-520 05 33 ∑ hotelsplendido.com
∑ londrapalace.com Housed in a former monastery,
Spacious and luxurious rooms, this hotel has elegantly furnished
plus splendid views of the city rooms, many with private terraces.
and the lagoon. Excellent service. Northern Italy
TURIN: Hotel Conte
DORSODURO: GENOA: Hotel Villa Pagoda €€ Biancamano €€
Agli Alboretti €€ Room with a view Pensione
Pensione Map C5 Via Capolungo 15, 16167 Corso Vittorio Emanuele 73, 10128
Rio Terrà Foscarini 884, 30123 Tel 010-372 61 61 Tel 011-562 32 81
Tel 041-523 00 58 ∑ villapagoda.it ∑ hotelcontebiancamano.it
∑ aglialboretti.com A luxurious 19th-century villa An intimate hotel with elegant
Simple, comfortable rooms are with antique furniture. Located decor, located on the third floor
equipped with a free minibar. just steps away from the coast. of a 19th-century palazzo.
LIDO DI VENEZIA: LAKE GARDA: Locanda VERONA: Il Torcolo €€
Villa Mabapa €€ San Vigilio €€€ Modern
Room with a view Room with a view Vicolo Listone 3, 37121
Riviera San Nicolò 16, 30126 Località San Vigilio 17, 37016 Tel 045-800 75 12
Tel 041-526 05 90 Tel 045-725 66 88 ∑ hoteltorcolo.it
∑ villamabapa.com ∑ locanda-sanvigilio.it Small, family-run property with
Stay in attractive period villas that Exuding old-world charm, this simple rooms and a pleasant
look onto the lagoon. is one of the loveliest, most terrace where breakfast is served.
exclusive hotels on Lake Garda.
SAN MARCO: Saturnia VICENZA: Glam
and International €€ MANTUA: Casa Poli €€ Boutique Hotel €€
Luxury Map D4 Boutique Boutique
Via XXII Marzo 2398, 30124 Corso Giuseppe Garibaldi 32, 46100 Via A. Giuriolo 10, 36100
Tel 041-520 83 77 Tel 0376-28 81 70 Tel 0444-32 64 58
∑ hotelsaturnia.it ∑ hotelcasapoli.it ∑ gboutiquehotel.com
Opulence in a warm setting. This Located near the harbor, Casa Stylish space with a perfect blend
hotel features antique furnishings Poli offers cozy rooms and of traditional and modern decor.
and a pretty courtyard. minimalist decor. Room service and free Wi-Fi.


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440  IT AL Y

NAPLES: Decumani €€
Central Italy Naples and Historic
the South Via del Grande Archivio 8, 80100
ASSISI: Subasio €€ Tel 081-420 13 79
Modern ∑ palazzodecumani.com
Via Elia Frate 2c, 06081 AMALFI: Hotel Desirée € A 20th-century Baroque palace
Tel 075-81 22 06 Room with a view with tasteful, contemporary
∑ hotelsubasio.com Via Capo 31, 80067 furnishings. Free Wi-Fi.
Atmospheric and spacious rooms, Tel 081-878 15 63
some with terraces. Located ∑ desireehotelsorrento.com NAPLES: Grand Hotel
beside the famous basilica. This simple cliffside hotel offers Vesuvio €€
excellent value. There is also an Room with a view
DK Choice elevator to a small private beach. Via Partenope 45, 80121
Tel 081-764 00 44
BOLOGNA: Grand Hotel AMALFI: ∑ vesuvio.it
Majestic €€€ Antica Repubblica €€ Sumptuous lodgings with views
Luxury Boutique of the iconic Gulf of Naples. The
Via Indipendenza 8, 40121 Vico dei Pastai 2, 84011 two on-site restaurants also offer
Tel 051-225 445 Tel 089-873 63 10 panoramic views.
∑ grandhotelmajestic. ∑ anticarepubblica.it
hotelsbologna.it A charming hotel with a terrace
This legendary hotel expertly and elegantly furnished rooms
combines opulent old- featuring modern comforts. Sicily
world elegance with modern
comfort and hospitality. AMALFI: Bellevue Syrene €€€ AGRIGENTO: Camere del Sud €
Each room is individually Luxury B&B
decorated with lush fabrics Piazza della Vittoria 5, 80067 Via Ficani, 92100
and antique furniture. Breakfast Tel 081-878 10 24 Tel 349-638 44 24
is served on the romantic ∑ bellevue.it ∑ camereasud.it
rooftop terrace with sweeping Housed in a dreamy 18th- Stay in a warm, simple room
views of the city. The dining century villa with a flowering at this sunny B&B with friendly
room boasts beautiful frescoes. terrace and private beach access. and helpful owners.
CAPRI: Bellavista €€€ ERICE: Elimo €€
FERRARA: Hotel Nazionale € Boutique Room with a view
Boutique Via Giuseppe Orlandi 10, 80071 Via Vittorio Emanuele 73, 91016
Corso Porta Reno 32, 44121 Tel 081-837 14 63 Tel 0923-86 93 77
Tel 0532 24 3 596 ∑ bellavistacapri.com ∑ hotelelimo.it
∑ hotelnazionaleferrara.it At this 1960s-style hotel, all Small but lovely rooms – some
Despite its central location, the rooms have private balconies with balconies that afford views
rooms here are very quiet, and with sea or garden views. of the countryside.
are furnished with modern
design furniture. Pets are welcome. CAPRI: Grand Hotel PALERMO: Principe di
Quisisana €€€ Villafranca €
PISA: Guerrazzi € Luxury Luxury
B&B Via Camerelle 2, 80073 Via Giuseppina Turrisi Colonna 4,
Via Francesco da Buti 4, 56125 Tel 081-837 07 88 Closed Nov–Feb 90141
Tel 338-932 81 69 ∑ quisisana.com Tel 091-611 85 23
∑ bbguerrazzi.hostel.com The Quisisana features deluxe ∑ principedivillafranca.it
Simple but quaint, with accommodations oozing Elegant hotel full of intricate and
comfortable and clean rooms. Mediterranean elegance. Spa colorful design details, including
Conveniently located close to treatments and a Turkish bath. antique art and furnishings.
the airport and train station.
PISA: Royal Victoria Hotel €
Historic
Lungarno Antonio Pacinotti 12, 56126
Tel 050-94 01 11
∑ royalvictoria.it
Set in a 10th-century tower, the
Royal Victoria has stately decor
and spacious rooms.
SIENA: Antica Residenza
Cicogna €
Pensione
Via Termini 67, 53100
Tel 0577-28 56 13
∑ anticaresidenzacicogna.it
Housed in a medieval building,
this is a charming, refurbished
hotel with modern amenities.
Richly decorated suite at Grand Hotel Vesuvio, Naples
Key to prices see page 438


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TR A VELERS ’ NEEDS  441

Where to Eat and Drink

Price Guide
Rome Prices are based on a three-course meal
per person, with a half-bottle of house
wine, and all extra charges.
Around Piazza Navona € up to €40
Acchiappafantasmi € €€ €40 to €75
Pizzeria Map C3 €€€ over €75
Via dei Cappellari 66, 00186
Tel 06-687 34 62 Closed Mon
With a bright and inviting interior, Florence
Acchiappafantasmi, or “Ghost-
busters,” serves ghost-shaped Da Kou €
pizzas – amusing and delicious. Japanese
Via del Melarancio 19/r, 50123
Camponeschi €€ Tel 055-28 29 22 Closed Mon
Fine Dining Map C3 Fresh and authentic sushi is
Piazza Farnese, 50/50a, 00186 prepared with skill and served
Tel 06-687 49 27 in generous portions here. The
World-class dining in the heart of decor is modern and informal.
town. Try the tagliolini pasta with The enticing window of Roscioli, a deli and
lobster and black truffles. Wild wine bar in the heart of Rome Il Vegetariano €
game is the house specialty. Vegetarian
La Campana €€ Via delle Ruote 30, 50129
Roscioli €€ Regional Italian Map C2 Tel 055-47 50 30 Closed Sat & Sun
Enoteca Map 9 C4 Vicolo della Campana 18, 00186 lunch; Mon; 3 wks Aug, Christmas
Via dei Giubbonari 21, 00186 Tel 06-687 52 73 Closed Mon; Aug Enjoy excellent-value fare at this
Tel 06-687 52 87 Closed Sun The oldest restaurant in Rome, long-established restaurant
Part wine bar, part salumeria dating back to 1518, La Campana where the menu changes daily.
(deli), with drool-worthy meats serves traditional favorites and
and cheeses, and a dizzying plenty of fish dishes. Ruth’s €
selection of wine labels. Kosher/Vegetarian
Via Luigi Carlo Farini 2, 50121
Hostaria dell’Orso €€€ The Vatican and Tel 055-248 08 88 Closed Fri dinner
Fine Dining Map C3 Trastevere & Sat lunch; Jewish festivities
Via dei Soldati 25c, 00186 Located beside the synagogue,
Tel 06-683 011 92 Closed Aug Osteria dell’Angelo € this kosher restaurant serves
This legendary restaurant and Regional Italian Jewish-inspired recipes, plus a
nightclub, located in a beautiful Via G. Bettolo 24, 00195 wide range of vegetarian and
house, has been welcoming Tel 06-372 94 70 seafood options.
guests since the 16th century. Head here for outstanding
Roman cuisine at affordable Alle Murate €€
prices. For an all-Roman Regional Italian
Northeast Rome experience, try the rigatoni with Via del Proconsolo 16/r, 50122
San Marco € pajata (offal sauce). Tel 055-24 06 18 Closed Mon
Pizzeria Map D2 This unique restaurant offers an
Via Sardegna 38, 00187 Antico Arco €€ opportunity to combine art and
Tel 06-420 126 20 Closed 1 wk Aug; Fine Dining Map C3 food. Housed in a 14th-century
Dec 24 Piazzale Aurelio 7, 00152 palace, it boasts original frescoes
A wine bar and grill noted for its Tel 06-581 52 74 Closed Jan 1 on the walls and vaulted ceilings.
delicious pizzas and gracious Truffles, wild strawberries, gluten-
service. The blackboard-covered free bread and pastas, and other Dei Frescobaldi €€
walls list the day’s specials. such delights are on offer here. Enoteca
The vast wine list is tantalizing Via dei Magazzini 2–4/r, 50122
Trimani il Wine Bar € and the desserts are divine. Tel 055-28 47 24 Closed Mon
Enoteca Map E2 lunch; 1 wk Jan, 3 wks Aug
Via Cernaia 37b, 00185 DK Choice Sample fine wines and
Tel 06-446 96 30 Closed Sun; Jan 1; meticulously matched dishes
2 wks Aug; Dec 25 & 26 Isole di Sicilia €€ in a setting of frescoed walls
Modern wine bar with labels that Regional Italian and exposed stonework.
pair perfectly with cold and hot Via Garibaldi 68, 00153
dishes, as well as Italian cheeses. Tel 06-583 342 12 Closed Wed Bistrò Del Mare €€€
The elaborate dishes at this Fine Dining
Hamasei €€ cheerful restaurant are inspired Lungarno Corsini 4/r, 50123
Japanese Map D2 by the cuisine of the islands Tel 055-239 92 24 Closed Mon;
Via della Mercede 35/36, 00187 around Sicily. A vast antipasto 1 wk Aug
Tel 06-679 21 34 Closed Mon; Aug spread of cold meats and Steps away from Ponte Vecchio,
Inventive sushi and sashimi vegetables kicks off a lovely this refined restaurant
dishes are served in a minimalist meal. In good weather, you can specializing in seafood serves
setting, with low tables for dine on the tree-lined street. dishes inspired by old Tuscan
authentic Oriental-style dining. recipes but with a modern twist.
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442  IT AL Y

are great fish and game dishes.
Try the freshly made gnocchi.
DK Choice
MILAN:
Nobile Bistrò de Milan €€
Regional Italian
Corso Venezia 45, 20121
Tel 02-49 52 65 92 Closed 2 wks
Aug
Well-known Milanese chef
Claudio Sadler prepares
traditional meat and fish dishes
The outdoor eating area at Osteria da Rioba, Venice with a modern twist at this
reasonably priced restaurant.
SAN POLO: Da Fiore €€€ Breakfast, lunch, afternoon tea,
Venice Fine Dining Map C3 aperitivo (aperitif), and dinner
Calle delle Botteghe, 30125 are all served in an informal
DK Choice Tel 041-523 53 10 Closed Tue; Jan atmosphere. Sit indoors or
in the private courtyard.
8–22; 3 wks Aug
BURANO-MAZZORBO: Seasonal produce is the rule at
Venissa €€€ this restaurant said to be the best
Modern Italian in the city. Leave room for dessert. PADUA: Trattoria San Pietro €€
Fondamenta Santa Caterina 3, Regional Italian
30170 Via San Pietro 95, 35139
Tel 041-527 22 81 Closed Tue; Tel 049-876 03 30 Closed Sun; Jul
Oct–May Northern Italy The perfect place for regional
Venissa guarantees a special dishes cooked with fresh local
gastronomic experience. The GENOA: Cantine Squarciafico €€ ingredients. Informal ambience.
menu features seafood, meat, Regional Italian
and vegetarian options made Piazza Invrea 3r, 16123 PORTOFINO: Da U Batti €€
using home-grown produce. Tel 010-247 08 23 Closed Mon Seafood
lunch; 1 wk Jan, 2 wks Aug Vico Nuovo 17, 16034
This wine bar serves up a range Tel 0185-26 93 79 Closed Mon;
CANNAREGIO: of Ligurian specialties, including Nov–mid-Jan
Osteria da Rioba €€ great stracci (a type of lasagne). A chic, intimate restaurant in one
Seafood Map C2 of Liguria’s most elegant towns.
Fondamenta della Misericordia 2553, DK Choice Exceptional fish cuisine.
30121
Tel 041-524 43 79 Closed Mon LAKE COMO: VERONA: Il Desco €€€
A charming canal-side restaurant L’Angolo del Silenzio €€ Fine Dining
decorated with a seafood mosaic. Regional Italian Via Dietro San Sebastiano 5-7, 37121
Reserve in advance. Viale Lecco 25, 22100 Tel 045-595 358 Closed Sun & Mon
Tel 031-377 21 57 Closed Mon & (except Mon dinner Jul, Aug & Dec);
CASTELLO: Ristorante Wildner €€ Tue lunch; 2 wks Aug 2 wks Jun & Dec
Regional Italian Map F4 This osteria (wine bar) offers Housed in an old patrician house,
Riva degli Schiavoni 4161, 30122 pasta, meat, game, and fish this elegant Michelin-starred
Tel 041-522 74 63 Closed Tue; dishes in a friendly atmosphere. restaurant offers a creative take
3 wks Jan Try the wild boar with red- on traditional Italian cuisine.
Diners can feast on fresh fish and currant sauce and Roquefort.
locally grown organic vegetables An inexpensive one-dish lunch
at this restaurant. There is also an is available on weekdays, and
interesting wine list. gluten-free dishes are prepared Central Italy
upon request. Book ahead.
SAN MARCO: Acqua Pazza €€ ASSISI: La Fortezza €
Seafood Map D4 Regional Italian
Campo Sant’Angelo 3808, 30124 MILAN: Pasta Madre € Vicolo della Fortezza 2b, 06081
Tel 041-277 06 88 Closed Mon; Modern Italian Tel 075-81 29 93 Closed Thu; Jul
Jan–Feb Via Bernardino Corio 8, 20135 Mostly traditional cuisine, with
This is where the Amalfi Coast Tel 02-55 19 00 20 Closed Sun; Aug some creative touches. Friendly
meets Venice. A different take Contemporary decor and a but professional service and a
on fish, with wines to match. relaxed ambience. Pasta Madre good price–quality ratio.
serves creative Italian fare, as
SAN MARCO: well as gluten-free desserts. BOLOGNA:
Trattoria Do Forni €€€ Antica Trattoria della Gigina €€
Fine Dining Map D4 MILAN: U Barba € Regional Italian
Calle dei Specchieri 468, 30124 Regional Italian Via Stendhal 1, 40128
Tel 041-523 21 48 Via Decembrio 33, 20137 Tel 051-32 23 00
Two dining areas with Tel 02-45 48 70 32 Closed Mon; Tue– This eatery delivers a modern
different decor serve careful Fri: lunch take on regional cuisine without
interpretations of classic A friendly Genoese osteria with compromising on the flavors.
Venetian cuisine. a bocce ball court. On the menu Extensive wine list.
Key to prices see page 441
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TR A VELERS ’ NEEDS  443

BOLOGNA: Pappagallo €€ CAPRI: Da Paolino €
Fine Dining Regional Italian Sicily
Piazza della Mercanzia 3, 40125 Via Palazzo a Mare 11, 80073
Tel 051-232 807 Closed 2 wks Aug Tel 081-837 61 02 Closed Oct–Apr AGRIGENTO: Kokalos €€
Excellent traditional cuisine A rustic country restaurant with Regional Italian
is served under dramatically rich regional cuisine. Guests Via Cavaleri Magazzeni 3
high ceilings. The desserts are dine amid lemon trees. Tel 0922-60 64 27
delicious, and the wine cellar Sample traditional Sicilian fare
is well stocked. CAPRI: L’Olivo €€ prepared using local ingredients,
Fine Dining including oranges, almonds, and
PISA: La Taverna di Emma € Via Capodimonte 14, 80071 sun-dried tomatoes.
Modern Italian Tel 081-978 05 60 Closed mid-Oct–
Via Carlo Salomone Cammeo 50, mid-Apr PALERMO:
56122 The chefs here use ingredients Antico Caffè Spinnato €
Tel 050-555 003 Closed Sun; 1 wk such as saffron, bergamot, fava Enoteca
Feb; last 2 wks Aug beans, and asparagus to create Via Principe di Belmonte 111, 90139
A talented chef whips up creative gorgeous flavor combinations. Tel 091-58 32 31 Closed Christmas
yet traditional recipes at this Come for the wines, liqueurs,
simple eatery. Delicious desserts. DK Choice and espresso coffee, but stay
for traditional desserts such as
PISA: V. Beni €€ NAPLES: Da Michele € cannoli and gelato.
Seafood Pizzeria
Piazza Chiara Gambacorti 22, 56125 Via Cesare Sersale 1, 80139 PALERMO: Bye Bye Blues €€
Tel 050-250 67 Closed Sun; Tel 081-553 92 04 Closed Sun; Fine Dining
2 wks Aug 2 wks Aug Via del Garofalo 23, 90149
Located slightly off the tourist A trip to Naples would not be Tel 091-684 14 15 Closed Mon;
track, this local favorite is housed complete without tasting a pizza 2 wks Jan
in a rustic 15th-century building. here, probably the most famous At this Michelin-starred
pizzeria in the world. Only two restaurant, diners can watch
DK Choice types of pizza are available: their dishes being prepared.
margherita and marinara.
Fantastic value.
SIENA: La Taverna di San
Giuseppe €€ SIRACUSA: Oinos €
Regional Italian NAPLES: La Cantinella €€ Modern Italian
Via Giovanni Dupre 132, 53100 Fine Dining Via della Giudecca 69/75, 96100
Tel 0577-422 86 Closed Sun Via Cuma 42, 80132 Tel 0931-464 900
Nestled in the tangle of Sienese Tel 081-764 86 84 Closed Sun Dine in an intimate setting and
alleys, this characteristic This award-winning restaurant enjoy a variety of dishes based
restaurant offers delicious with a bamboo-forest decor on recipes from all over Italy.
meats, some of which are boasts an imaginative chef.
served with truffles, a variety of DK Choice
rustic antipasti, and popular first NAPLES: Il Comandante €€€
courses including a delicious Fine Dining TAORMINA: Al Duomo €€
lasagna. Great view over the Via Cristoforo Colombo, 80133 Seafood
cellar and attentive service. Tel 081-017 50 01 Closed Tue Vico Ebrei (Piazza Duomo), 98039
Reservations recommended. The chef here creates exquisite Tel 0942-625 656 Closed winter:
dishes from a handful of basic Mon
ingredients. Sunny patio seating. This restaurant is set on a terrace
URBINO: in Taormina’s most beautiful
Antica Osteria da la Stella €€ POSITANO: Remmese piazza, with the backdrop of a
Regional Italian Beach Club €€ 12th-century cathedral. Classic
Via Santa Margherita 1, 61029 Seafood and modern fish dishes are
Tel 0722-320 228 Closed Mon; Via Marconi 127, 84018 whipped up with enthusiasm
2 wks Jul Tel 089-875 733 by the chefs. The kitchen
Famous painters such as Raphael Sweeping sea views and delicious is open well past midnight.
and Piero della Francesca have fish cuisine define this restaurant.
dined at this historic restaurant.
Elegant interiors with a fireplace.
Naples and
the South
AMALFI: La Caravella €€€
Fine Dining
Via Matteo Camera 12, 84011
Tel 089-87 10 29 Closed Tue; Jan
& Nov
The award-winning chef at La
Caravella uses local flavors to
exalt the regional cuisine. Dine amid a lemon orchard at Da Paolino, on the island of Capri




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IT AL Y AND GREECE  445

GREECE


Greece is one of the most visited countries in Europe, yet remains one of
the least known. Although most visitors will be familiar with the images of
Ancient Greece, the modern Greek state dates only from 1830. Situated at a
geographical crossroads, Greece combines cultural elements of the Balkans,
the Middle East, and the Mediterranean.


For a small country, Greece possesses amenities. A number of improvements,
marked regional differences. Nearly three- including the growth of tourism, helped
quarters of the land is mountainous, Greece develop into a relatively wealthy,
uninhabited, or uncultivated. On the modern state. However, the financial crisis
mainland, fertile agricultural land supports of 2010 to the present has led to a rise in
tobacco farming in the northeast, with unemployment, a series of unpopular
orchard fruits and vegetables grown farther austerity bills, and political instability.
south. A third of the population lives in the
capital, Athens, the cultural, financial, and History
political center, where ancient and modern Early Greek history is marked by a series of
stand side by side. Of the myriad islands, internal struggles, from the Mycenaean
only about eighty are today inhabited. and Minoan cultures of the Bronze Age
For centuries, a large number of Greeks to the competing city-states of the 1st
have lived abroad. Currently, there are over millennium BC. In spite of warfare, the
half as many Greeks outside the country 4th and 5th centuries BC were the high
as in, although recent years have seen point of ancient Greek civilization, a
reverse immigration, with expatriates golden age of exceptional creativity
returning home, especially to the islands. in philosophy and the arts.
Rural and urban life in contemporary In 338 BC, the Greeks were conquered
Greece has been transformed since the by Philip II of Macedonia at Chaironeia,
start of the 20th century, despite foreign and Greece soon became absorbed into
occupation and civil war. Until the 1960s, Alexander the Great’s vast empire. With
the country remained underdeveloped, the defeat of the Macedonians by the
with many rural areas lacking basic Romans in 168 BC, Greece was made a






















The idyllic Myrtos Bay as seen from the clifftops of Kefalonia, one of the Ionian islands
Dusk falls over picturesque Oia village, on the island of Santorini, in the Cyclades



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446  IT AL Y AND GREECE

province of Rome. As part of the Eastern
Roman Empire, it was ruled from
Constantinople and became a powerful
element within the Orthodox Christian,
Byzantine world.
Following the Ottomans’ momentous
capture of Constantinople in 1453, the
Greek mainland was ruled by the Turks
for the next 375 years. Crete and the
Ionian islands were seized for long periods
by the Venetians. Eventually, the Greeks
rebelled and, in 1821, the Greek War
of Independence began. In 1832, the
Great Powers that dominated Europe
established a protectorate over Greece,
marking the end of Ottoman rule. During 19th-century lithograph celebrating the Greek War
the 19th century, the Greeks expanded of Independence
their national territory, reasserting Greek
sovereignty over many of the islands. to a close thousands of years of Greek
Almost a century of significant territorial presence in Asia Minor. The ensuing years
gains came to a disastrous end in 1922, were a time of hardship and instability. The
when 1.4 million Greeks were expelled Metaxás dictatorship was followed by
from Smyrna in Turkish Anatolia, bringing Italian, German, and Bulgarian occupation
during World War II, and then a bitter civil
war. The present boundaries of the Greek
KEY DATES IN GREEK HISTORY
state date from 1948, when the
3000–1200 BC Bronze Age; Cycladic, Minoan, and Dodecanese were finally returned by
Mycenaean cultures flourish
the Italians. Today, Greece is a stable
800 Emergence of city-states
5th century Classical period; high point of Athenian democracy and has been a member
culture under Perikles of the European Union since 1981.
431–404 Peloponnesian Wars; defeat of the
Athenians by the city-state of Sparta Religion, Language and Culture
338 Greek army conquered by Philip II of Macedonia During Venetian and Ottoman domination,
333 Alexander the Great declares himself king of Asia; the Greek Orthodox church succeeded in
Greece absorbed into his vast empire preserving the Greek language and identity.
168 Greece becomes province of Rome
Today, the Orthodox church is still a power-
AD 49–54 St. Paul preaches Christianity in Greece ful force. Great importance is placed on
395 Greece becomes part of the new Eastern Roman
Empire, ruled from Constantinople baptisms and church weddings, although
1453 Constantinople falls to the Ottoman Turks civil marriages are valid in law. Sunday
1821 Start of the Greek War of Independence mass is very popular with women, for whom
1832 Great Powers establish protectorate over Greece church is a meeting place for socializing,
1922 Greeks fail to capture Smyrna from Turks just as the kafeneía (cafés) are for men.
1941–9 World War II and subsequent civil war leaves The Greek language was for a long time
thousands dead or displaced a field of conflict between katharévousa,
1981 Admission to the European Union an artificial form devised around the time
2002 Euro becomes legal currency of independence, and the slowly evolved
2004 Greece hosts Olympic Games and wins the everyday speech, or dimotikí. Today’s
football European Cup prevalence of dimotikí was perhaps a
2010–15 Greece narrowly avoids bankruptcy after foregone conclusion in an oral culture.
taking €400 billion in loans from the EU and IMF
The art of storytelling is as prized now as




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GREECE  447

it was in Homer’s time, with conversation
pursued for its own sake in kafeneía and
at dinner tables. Singers, writers, and
poet-lyricists have all kept dimotikí alive.

Development and Diplomacy
Greece remains one of the poorer
members of the European Union. It still
bears the hallmarks of a developing
economy, with agriculture and the service Typical scene at a Greek taverna, a popular place for friends and
sector accounting for two-thirds of the family to socialize
GNP. Tourism has compensated for the 2010, it was revealed that Greece was
decline in other industries, such as world nearly bankrupt and a €110 billion loan
shipping, but unemployment remains high. from the EU and IMF was agreed. PASOK
The fact that the Greek state is less than prime minister George Papandreou
200 years old, combined with recent resigned in late 2011, and 2012 elections
periods of political instability, means produced a coalition government
that there is little faith in headed by ND’s Antonis Samaras.
government institutions. Life Successive 2015 elections yielded
operates on networks of a leftist government under SYRIZA
personal friendships and prime minister Alexis Tsipras.
official contacts. In the
political sphere, the years Home Life
following World War II were The family is still the basic Greek
largely shaped by the influence social unit. Traditionally, one
of two men: Andréas family would farm its own land
Papandréou of the Panhellenic independently, and today, family-
Socialist Movement (PASOK) The late Andréas run businesses are common in
and Conservative Konstantínos Papandréou, twice Greek urban settings. Family life and
Karamanlís, who between them prime minister social life overlap considerably,
held office for much of the period between and tend to revolve around eating out.
1955 and 1995. Arranged marriages and dowries, though
The conservative New Democracy officially banned, persist. Most single
Party led by Kostas Karamanlís (nephew young adults live with their parents and
of Konstantínos) replaced PASOK after a outside the largest cities, few unmarried
convincing election win in 2004. PASOK couples cohabit. Greece has one of the
were back in power by autumn 2009. In lowest birth rates in Europe. Recently, the
status of urban Greek women
has greatly improved. They are
well represented in medicine
and law, and many women
run their own firms. However,
in the country, macho
attitudes still exist, women
often sacrificing a career to
look after the house and
children. That said, the ongoing
economic crisis and more
worldly outlooks have severely
Fishermen mending their nets on one of the Greek islands eroded traditional mores.




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448  IT AL Y AND GREECE

Exploring Greece Sofia Kastaniés
BULGARI A
From beaches to ancient archaeological Orestiáda
sites, Greece boasts a wide range of Skopje Néstos 51 Istanbul
attractions. The nation’s greatest ancient REPUBLIC OF Sidirókastro Souflí
MACEDONIA
monuments are located in the capital, Tirana 25 Sérres Dráma 14 Xánthi Komotiní
12
Athens, but relics of the Mycenaean, Kilkís Strimónas Néa 2 2
Zíchni
25
Minoan, Classical, and Byzantine Gallikós Angítis Istanbul
civilizations can be found all over. The Préspa Flórina 2 Edessa 2 Ancient 1 Amfípoli Kavála Keramotí Alexandroúpoli
Pélla
Greek islands attract thousands of 2 2
tourists, many of whom come simply to 15 4 Thessaloníki 2 Thásos T h r a c i an Sea
enjoy the sun and sand and the relaxed Kastoriá Ptolemaïda Véroia 16
pace of life. Ferries link the different 3 Aliákmonas 16
25
island groups to the mainland, and 20 Kozáni Kateríni Ouranoúpoli Samothráki
“island-hopping” is a popular ALBANI A 13 Néa Moudaniá Mount
Athos
way to explore the Kónitsa Grevená 3 Imvros
many archipelagos. 2 Mount 1
Sarandë Olympos Límnos
15 26
´
Corfu and Thyamis 6 Metéora Tyrnavos Ténedos
´
the Ionian Corfu
Islands Town 6 Ioánnina 6 Tríkala 6 Lárisa
6
Igoumenítsa Pineiós
Corfu 1 Agios
Italy 5 Arachthos Kardítsa 3 Vólos Efstrátios
34 Pílio Gioúra
Párga Achelóos 30 Skiáthos TURKEY
Fársala Alónnisos Kyrá Panagiá Lésvos
Paxos 18 Arta
1
0 km 50 Peristerá
5 G R E E C E Plataniá Skópelos
0 miles 50 Préveza Karpenisi Glyfa
38 Lamía Loutrá 77 Skyros Aegean
´
Lefkáda 42 Spercheiós Aidipsoú
Town 5 38 3 Sea
Lefkáda 1 77
´
Meganísi Astakós Agrínio 27 Ancient Kymi
Delphi Oinoússes
Key 5 48 Galaxídi Kástro Chalkída Psará Chíos
Kefalloniá Ithaca Mesolóngi 48 44
Highway 3
Major road Sámi Pátra Gulf of Corinth Monastery Monastery 1
Argostóli of Osios Marathónas
Railroad Loukás of Dafní
International boundary Kyllíni 9 Kalávryta 8A Marmari Kárystos
33 Ancient Piraeus ATHENS Andros
Amaliáda Corinth
Zákynthos 74 Sámos
Town Pyrgos Mycenae Agkístri
´
Zákynthos Dimitsána Loúsios 7 Epidaurus Aígina Makrónisos
74
Ancient Méthana Kéa
Olympía Gorge Póros Soúnio Gyáros Tínos
9
Trípoli Náfplio ´
´
Ionian Megalópoli Kranídi Kythnos Syros
Sights at a Glance Néda 39 Ydra
1 Athens pp450–57 Sea Spétses
2 Soúnio t Náfplio 7 Evrótis Sérifos Páros
3 Monastery of Dafní y Monemvasía 9 Kalamáta Mystrás Antíparos
4 Monastery of Osios Loukás u Máni Peninsula 82 39 Sífnos
´
5 Ancient Delphi i Mystrás Pylos Mílos Kímolos
6 Pílio o Loúsios Gorge Schíza Gytheio Polyaigos Síkinos
´
´
7 Metéora pp462–3 p Ancient Olympia Monemvasía
8 Thessaloníki a Corfu and the Ionian Islands Neápoli Folegándros
9 Ancient Pélla Geroliménas Máni Elafónisos
0 Mount Athos Islands South of the Mainland Peninsula
q Mount Olympos (see inset map) Kythira
´
w Ancient Corinth s Cyclades
e Mycenae d Rhodes and the Dodecanese
r Epidaurus f Crete
For hotels and restaurants see pp484–6 and pp487–9
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