(DK Eyewitness) Travel Guide - Europe

A T A GLANCE  599









Tromsø 0 km 100
0 miles 100
Locator Map



Helsinki (see pp654–8),
the capital of Finland,
Kemijärvi boasts an impressive
mix of Neo-Classical
and modern 20th-
century architecture.
Mo i Rana
Luleå Kemi The city’s hub of
activity is Market
Square on the
waterfront, which
Oulu in summer fills with
Storuman crowds browsing the
craft and food stalls.
FINLAND
Umeå (see pp650–63)
Trondheim Kuopio
Vaasa

Jyväskylä
Ålesund Sundsvall
Tampere
NORWAY Lahti
(see pp618–33) Turku
Gävle St. Petersburg
Helsinki St. Petersburg (see pp658–9), Russia’s
Bergen “culture capital”, is an easy side trip from
Helsinki. The city’s main artery, Nevskiy
Drammen Oslo prospekt, is packed with shops, cafés,
Stockholm and monumental architecture.
Karlstad
Stavanger
SWEDEN
(see pp600–17)
Kristiansand
Jönköping
Gothenburg Visby
Aalborg Växjö
DENMARK Halmstad
(see pp634–49) Århus

Esbjerg Copenhagen Malmö
Odense
Stockholm (see pp604–9) enjoys an unrivaled
setting surrounded by water and unspoiled
countryside that stretches right into the center.
Overlooking the Riddarfjärden channel is the
Stadshuset (City Hall), a symbol of the city.




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SWEDEN


The Swedes are justly proud of the natural beauty of their country. From the
snow-capped mountains of the north, through rolling countryside dotted
with forests and lakes, to the tiny islands of the Baltic archipelagos around
Stockholm, the country is a mecca for outdoor enthusiasts. Like its people,
Sweden’s cities are modern and dynamic, but also rich in tradition.
Sweden is Europe’s fifth-largest History
country, with an area about the size Although the Swedish Vikings were
of California. Roughly 1,600 km (1,000 seafaring warriors like their Danish and
miles) lie between its southernmost and Norwegian cousins, they were primarily
northernmost points. About 15 percent known as Sweden’s first traders, opening up
of its area lies north of the Arctic Circle, routes along the Russian rivers to the east as
where, for a few days each summer, the far as the Black Sea. Ruthlessly exploiting the
sun never sets, and never rises for a similar Slav population of the area, they dealt
period in winter. The Swedish climate is mainly in slaves and furs. The Viking reign
not severe, thanks to the warming ended with the successful Christianization
influence of the Gulf Stream. of Sweden at the end of the 11th century.
Only 7 percent of Sweden’s area is The German traders of the Hanseatic
cultivated farmland; more than half the League arrived in Sweden some time
country is covered by timberlands, during the 13th century, and dominated
consisting mainly of coniferous forests. Swedish life for the next hundred years.
Mountains, fells, and wetlands occupy In 1397, the Germans were forced out by
nearly a quarter of the country. Sweden has the Union of Kalmar, which brought
about 100,000 lakes, which include Vänern, Scandinavia under Danish rule. This state
the third-largest body of fresh water in of affairs continued until Gustav Vasa,
Europe. Norrland, the northern three-fifths resenting Denmark’s influence, succeeded
of the country, is rich in natural resources, in ousting the Danes in 1523, becoming
including timber, ore deposits, and rivers, king of an independent Sweden.
whose waterfalls contribute to the national The 17th and early 18th centuries were
energy supply. It is here that the Sami dominated by two military giants, Gustav II
(formerly known as the Lapps) earn their Adolf and Karl XII, whose conquests made
traditional livelihood herding reindeer. Sweden for the first time more powerful




















Dancers in traditional folk costume in the village of Sundborn, Dalarna province
Stockholm City in the summer sun



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than Denmark. In the 18th century, the nearly one million Swedes migrated,
Swedes contributed to Europe’s Age mostly to America. Their departure
of Enlightenment with advances in was a sobering lesson to those that
science and major developments in remained, inspiring the philosophy of
the arts, especially under the cradle-to-grave care that was put
patronage of Gustav III. He into practice in 20th-century
opened the magnificent Sweden’s welfare state.
Royal Opera House in 1782, In a single century, Sweden
and was responsible for the grew from a poor rural
construction of the Royal economy to a leading industrial
Dramatic Theater in 1788. nation. The 1990s saw many
By 1809, Sweden’s military significant changes take place.
power had waned to such an Engineering expanded rapidly,
extent that the country was particularly in the field of
forced to surrender Finland to Karl XII of Sweden telecommunications, led by the
Russia. A new constitution (1697–1718), the Ericsson company. Sweden
transferred power from the king “warrior king” joined the EU, and the church
to Parliament, marking the severed its role with the state after
beginning of Sweden’s democratic more than 400 years. In the year 2000,
monarchy. In the early 19th century, Malmö in Sweden and the Danish capital
Sweden was also a poor country, of Copenhagen were connected by the
suffering from stagnation in agriculture completion of the Öresund Bridge,
and trade. In the course of the century, symbolic of the long-standing friendship
that has replaced the animosity between
these once warring nations.
KEY DATES IN SWEDISH HISTORY
AD 800–1060 Era of the Swedish Vikings Language and Culture
13th century Hanseatic League of German Swedish belongs to the northern group
merchants at height of its power in Sweden
1397 Kalmar Union links the Nordic countries of Germanic languages, along with
1523 Gustav Vasa becomes king of an independent Norwegian, Danish, Icelandic, and
Sweden Faeroese. Various dialects are spoken,
1611–32 Reign of Gustav II Adolf, whose campaigns most notably in Skåne, southern Sweden,
turn Sweden into a great European power where the accent is almost Danish.
1718 Death of Karl XII, Sweden’s last great military A nation of nature lovers, the Swedes
king, at siege of Fredriksten in Norway are apt to retreat to their country cottages
1721 Sweden cedes Baltic provinces to Russia
in all seasons. Deeply traditional, they love
1772 Gustav III crowned and mounts coup d’état
giving the monarchy absolute power their rituals, from maypole dances at
1809 Sweden loses Finland to Russia midsummer to the St. Lucia procession
1814 Sweden gains Norway from Denmark in December. Beneath their reserve, the
1869 Emigration to North America increases due to Swedes are a friendly people, their
crop failure warmth readily unleashed with a skål
1905 Parliament dissolves union with Norway (toast) and a round of schnapps.
1939 Sweden declares neutrality in World War II Swedes are open-minded, trend-hungry,
1995 Sweden joins European Union and tech-friendly. Stockholm offers the
2000 Öresund Bridge opens, finally connecting latest in design and architecture, and
Sweden and Denmark Sweden has become increasingly
2003 Single European currency rejected multicultural. While this new Sweden
2010 Crown Princess Victoria marries Daniel Westling doesn’t always blend easily with the
2012 Princess Estelle born to Crown Princess Victoria old, most Swedes recognize that the
and Prince Daniel
country is richer for its diversity.




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SWEDEN  603

Exploring Sweden
Sweden
The natural starting point for exploring Sweden is the
capital Stockholm, built on a cluster of Baltic Sea islands. 0 km 250
From here, visitors can explore the castles of Lake Mälaren 0 miles 250
or head north to Uppsala, a thriving university town.
On the way south to Malmö or west to Gothenburg S W E D E N
lies the Glass Kingdom, where some of the world’s best- FINLAND
known glassmakers ply their trade. Travel throughout NORWAY
Sweden can be conducted quite easily by high-speed See main map Helsinki
trains or by car, though the long distances involved Oslo ESTONIA
make travel quite expensive. STOCKHOLM
Gothenburg LATVIA
DENMARK LITHUANIA
Sights at a Glance
1 Stockholm pp604–9 70
2 Lake Mälaren Gulf of
3 Uppsala Bothnia
4 Dalarna Dalarna 80 Gävle Storby
5 Gotland and Visby 45
6 Gothenburg NORWAY Borlänge 70 E4 76 Mariehamn
7 Växjö Uppsala Grisslehamn
8 Malmö SWEDEN
OSLO 60
62 E18 Kapellskär
Lake E18
E18 Mälaren St Petersburg,
Karlstad Helsinki,
Sandefjord E20 Tallinn,
Örebro STOCKHOLM
Vänern
Strömstad
Nynäshamn
45 Dalbosjön Norrköping Oxelösund Riga
51
E6
E20 E4
Vättern E22
Skagerrak
Gothenburg 40 Jönköping Västervik
(Göteborg) 33 Visby
Borås
Frederikshavn, E4 Gotland
Kiel 26 Oskarshamn
23
Växjö 25
E6-E20
25 Öland
Halmstad Kalmar
E22 Gdansk
30
E4 23 Karlskrona
Helsingør Helsingborg Kristianstad
COPENHAGEN E22
Gdansk
Malmö Simrishamn 0 kilometers 100
Ystad Allinge 0 miles 100
Trelleborg
Rønne Bornholm
(Denmark)
Travemunde,
Rostock
Key
Highway
Major road
Railroad
International border
The Göteborgsutkiken building,
overlooking Gothenburg Harbor
For hotels and restaurants see p616 and p617 For keys to symbols see back flap
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1 Stockholm Arlanda Airport Lidingö
Sundbyberg E4
Stockholm was founded around 1250 on a small island Bromma Solna
in the narrow Strömmen channel between the Baltic Sea Airport
and Lake Mälaren. Today, the Swedish capital stretches Ängby
across 14 islands. As well as a stunning waterside 20
location, Stockholm boasts a rich cultural heritage. Its Alvik E4
750-year history has produced a wealth of beautiful Lovön
buildings, such as the Royal Palace and Drottningholm – The Stadshuset, Stockholm’s City Hall, on
symbols of Sweden’s era as a great power in the 17th the island of Kungsholmen Hägersten
and early 18th centuries. Many other impressive Tappström 226 73
treasures from the past can be discovered in the Bredång E4 259
city’s fine museums.
Norkköping,
Södertälje
STUREG.
GREV TUREG.
DAVID BAGARES GATA BRAHEG. LINNÉGATAN
Östermalms-
torg
BRUNNSGATAN H U M L E G Å R D S G ATA N Hedvig
K U N G S G ATA N Eleonora GUMSHO RNSG.
PARK NY B R OG ATA N
Hötorget BIRGERJARLSGATAN Kyrka ÖSTERMALM
Konsert- LÄSTMAKARGATAN
huset SVEA VÄGEN JAKOBSBERGSGATAN GATAN BIBLIOTEKS
KUN G S GATAN SLOJDG. MALMSKILLNADSGATAN MÄSTER SAMUELSGATAN SMÅLANDSG. SIBYLLEGATAN Armé- G R EV G ATAN STORGATAN N A RVAVÄ G E N
NORRLANDSGATAN
MÄSTER SAMUELSGATAN
GREV
NORR-
GAMLA BROGATAN SERGELG.
NORRMALM HAMN GATAN Kungl. museum SKEPPARGATAN MAGNIGATAN TORSTENSSONSG. BANERGATAN STORGATAN N DVÄG EN
MALMSTORG
ULRIKAGATAN
Dramatiska
R ID DA RG ATAN
KUNGSTRÁDGÅRDSG.
TORG
NOBEL-
City- VASAGATAN Klara SERGELS- CITY REGERINGSGATAN BERZELII Teatern S T R A PARKEN

terminalen Kyrka Kungsträd- V. TRÄDGÄRDSGATAN Kungsträdgården STR AN DVÄ GEN Djurgårdsbron
gården
KLARABERGSGATAN T-Centralen M GÅRDEN STALLGATAN NYB R OK A JE N Ladugårdslandsviken
KUNGS
VAT TU GATA N
TRÄD-
Nybroviken
BLEKHOLMS TERRASSEN
KAPLANSBACKEN Stockholm C TEGEL- JAKOBSGATAN BLASIEHOLMEN HOVSLAGAR MUSEI KAJEN GALÄR-
GATAN
STR ÖMK A J EN
HE RK U LE S GATAN A LMTOR
PARKEN
Norrbro
STRÖMGATAN
F R EDSG ATA N GS.
Ström-
Stadstrusbron
BACKEN
S TRÖM K A JEN
Riksbron bron
Vasabron SLOTTSKAJEN NORRA BROBÄNKEN DJUR-
Norra Stallbron Skeppsholms- GÅRDEN
Järnvägsbron bron SKEPPS
MYNTGATAN SLOTTSBACKEN HOLMEN
RIDDAR- GAMLA O N SV E N S KSUNDSVÄGEN D J U R G Å R D S V Ä G E N
HOLMEN STORA NYGATAN STAN S a l LÅ NGA RADEN GATAN
TYSKA BRINKEN S KEP P S B R t AMIRALSVÄGEN
FALKENBERGS
CENTRALBRON
VÄ STERLÅNGGATAN
s
Riddarfjärden ÖSTE R Å N G GATA N j Kastellholms- Gröna
bron
ö
Gamla Stan n KASTELL- Lund
Södra HOLMEN
Järnvägsbron
SÖDER MÄLARSTRAND
SÖDER-
BASTUGATAN MALMS- Slussen
TAVASTGATAN TORG
Archipelago boats at Strömkajen, outside the H OR NS GATA N
Nationalmuseum Slussen KATARINAVÄGE N
STADSGÅRDSLEDEN
Sights at a Glance 9 Vasamuseet
1 Storkyrkan 0 Skansen
2 Royal Palace q Nordiska museet
3 Riddarholmskyrkan w Historiska museet
4 Stadshuset Greater Stockholm
5 Stureplan & Sturegallerian (see inset map)
6 Kungsträdgården
7 Nationalmuseum e Drottningholm
8 Moderna museet
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ST OCKHOLM  605


1 Storkyrkan
Greater Stockholm Arlanda Airport Lidingö
Sundbyberg Trångsund 1. Tel 08-723 30 16.
 Gamla Stan. @ 2, 43, 55, 76.
E4
Solna
Bromma Open 9am–4pm daily. & 8 in
Airport
English: book via the parish office.
7 = ∑ storkyrkan.nu
Ängby
20 Stockholm’s 700-year-old
Alvik
E4 cathedral, known as Storkyrkan
(literally, “big church”) is of great
Lovön
national religious importance.
From here, the Swedish reformer
Hägersten
Tappström 226 Olaus Petri (1493–1552) spread
E4 73 his Lutheran message around
Bredång
the kingdom. The cathedral is
259
0 km 2
also used for royal ceremonies.
Norkköping, 0 miles 2 A small church was built on
Södertälje
STUREG. this site in the 13th century,
probably by the city’s founder
GREV TUREG.
DAVID BAGARES GATA BRAHEG. LINNÉGATAN Key Birger Jarl. In 1306, it was
Östermalms-
torg
BRUNNSGATAN H U M L E G Å R D S G ATA N Hedvig Area of main map replaced by a much bigger
K U N G S G ATA N Eleonora GUMSHO RNSG. basilica, St. Nicholas.
PARK NY B R OG ATA N
Hötorget BIRGERJARLSGATAN Kyrka ÖSTERMALM
Konsert- LÄSTMAKARGATAN The 15th-century Gothic
huset SVEA VÄGEN JAKOBSBERGSGATAN GATAN BIBLIOTEKS interior was revealed in 1908
KUN G S GATAN SLOJDG. MALMSKILLNADSGATAN MÄSTER SAMUELSGATAN SMÅLANDSG. SIBYLLEGATAN Armé- G R EV G ATAN STORGATAN N A RVAVÄ G E N during restoration work. The
NORRLANDSGATAN
MÄSTER SAMUELSGATAN
NORR-
NORRMALM HAMN GATAN Kungl. museum SKEPPARGATAN GREV MAGNIGATAN TORSTENSSONSG. BANERGATAN STORGATAN N DVÄG EN late Baroque period provided
GAMLA BROGATAN SERGELG.
MALMSTORG
the cathedral’s so-called “royal
ULRIKAGATAN
Dramatiska
R ID DA RG ATAN
KUNGSTRÁDGÅRDSG.
TORG
NOBEL-
City- VASAGATAN Klara SERGELS- CITY REGERINGSGATAN BERZELII Teatern S T R A PARKEN chairs,” the pews nearest the

terminalen Kyrka Kungsträd- V. TRÄDGÄRDSGATAN Kungsträdgården STR AN DVÄ GEN Djurgårdsbron chancel, which were designed
by Nicodemus Tessin the
gården
KLARABERGSGATAN T-Centralen VAT TU GATA N M GÅRDEN STALLGATAN NYB R OK A JE N Ladugårdslandsviken Younger (1654–1728) to be
KUNGS
TRÄD-
used by royal guests on special
Nybroviken
BLEKHOLMS TERRASSEN
KAPLANSBACKEN Stockholm C TEGEL- JAKOBSGATAN BLASIEHOLMEN HOVSLAGAR MUSEI KAJEN PARKEN occasions. The 66-m- (216-ft-)
GATAN
STR ÖMK A J EN
GALÄR-
HE RK U LE S GATAN A LMTOR
high tower was added in 1743.
STRÖMGATAN
F R EDSG ATA N GS.
Norrbro
The cathedral houses some
Ström-
Stadstrusbron
BACKEN
S TRÖM K A JEN
Riksbron bron priceless artifacts, such as Bernt
Vasabron SLOTTSKAJEN NORRA BROBÄNKEN DJUR- Notke’s late-Gothic sculpture of
Norra Stallbron Skeppsholms- GÅRDEN
Järnvägsbron bron SKEPPS St. George and the Dragon (1489),
MYNTGATAN SLOTTSBACKEN HOLMEN celebrating Sten Sture the
RIDDAR- GAMLA O N SV E N S KSUNDSVÄGEN D J U R G Å R D S V Ä G E N Elder’s 1471 victory over the
HOLMEN STORA NYGATAN STAN S a LÅ NGA RADEN GATAN Danes. Other prized treasures
TYSKA BRINKEN S KEP P S B R t s AMIRALSVÄGEN are the silver altar (1650s) and
l
FALKENBERGS
CENTRALBRON
the Parhelion Painting, which
VÄ STERLÅNGGATAN
Riddarfjärden ÖSTE R Å N G GATA N j Kastellholms- Gröna depicts a light phenomenon
bron
ö
Gamla Stan n KASTELL- Lund observed over Stockholm in
Södra HOLMEN 1535. Research has proved the
Järnvägsbron painting is not the original, but
a copy from the 1630s.
SÖDER MÄLARSTRAND
BASTUGATAN SÖDER- Slussen
MALMS-
TAVASTGATAN TORG
H OR NS GATA N
Slussen KATARINAVÄGE N
STADSGÅRDSLEDEN
0 meters 400
0 yards 400
Key
Sight / Place of interest
Pedestrian street
The Italian Baroque-style facade of
Stockholm’s Storkyrkan
For keys to symbols see back flap
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606  SC ANDINA VIA
















The grand facade of Stockholm’s Kungliga Slottet (Royal Palace)
2 Royal Palace treasures, the splendid silver changing of the guard, takes
coronation throne of Queen place at midday in the palace’s
Kungliga Slottet. Tel 08-402 61 30.
 Gamla Stan, Kungsträdgården. @ Kristina (reigned 1633–54). Outer Courtyard.
2, 53, 55, 57, 76. Open mid-May–mid- Below the Hall of State is
Sep: 10am–5pm daily; mid-Sep–mid- the Treasury, where the State 3 Riddarholms-
May: noon–4pm Tue–Sun (except regalia are kept, including King kyrkan
Royal Chapel & Museum of Erik XIV’s crown, scepter, and
Antiquities). Closed during official orb. Other priceless artifacts, Birger Jarls Torg. Tel 08-402 61 30.
functions of the Court. & 8 7 such as two crystal crowns  Gamla Stan. @ 3, 59. Open mid-
∑ kungahuset.se belonging to the present May–mid-Sep: 10am–5pm daily.
monarchs, King Carl XVI Gustaf & 8 (noon in English). 7
Completed in the mid-13th and Queen Silvia, are on view ∑ kungahuset.se
century, the Tre Kronor (Three in the Royal Chapel.
Crowns) fortress was turned Within the palace are two Built on the site of the late
into a royal residence by the museums. Gustav III’s Museum 13th-century Greyfriars abbey,
Vasa kings during the following of Antiquities opened in 1794 founded by Magnus Ladulås,
century. In 1697, it was destroyed in memory of the murdered this majestic brick church is best
by fire. In its place, the architect king, and contains artifacts known for its ornate burial vaults.
Nicodemus Tessin the Younger collected during his journey Dating back to the 17th century,
(1654–1728) created a new to Italy in 1783–4. The Tre the vaults hold the remains of
palace with an Italianate exterior Kronor Museum illustrates the all the Swedish sovereigns from
and a French interior that also palace’s 1,000-year history, and Gustav II Adolf, with two
shows Swedish influences. has relics rescued from the exceptions: Queen Kristina,
Though the palace is no burning palace in 1697. A very buried at St. Peter’s in Rome in
longer the king’s residence, the popular tourist event, the daily 1689, and Gustav VI Adolf, who
State Apartments are was interred at Haga, on the city
still used for official outskirts, in 1973. Especially
functions. Banquets for moving are the graves of royal
visiting heads of state children, including the many
are often held in the small tin coffins that surround
magnificent Karl XI’s the tombs of Gustav II Adolf and
Gallery, which is his queen, Maria Eleonora.
modeled on the Hall
of Mirrors at Versailles 4 Stadshuset
outside Paris (see
pp168–9), and is a fine Hantverkargatan 1. Tel 08-508 290 58.
example of Swedish  Rådhuset. @ 3, 62. Open for
Late Baroque. Look out guided tours. Closed some public
for the exquisite ivory holidays and for special activities.
and silver saltcellar, & 8 obligatory. 7
designed by Flemish ∑ stockholm.se/cityhall
painter Rubens. The
two-story Hall of State, Probably Sweden’s biggest
designed by Tessin architectural project of the 20th
and Carl Hårleman, century, the Stadshuset (City
combines Rococo and Hall) was completed in 1923
Classical elements, and and has become a symbol of
contains one of the Tre Kronor (Three Crowns) symbol atop the 106-m Stockholm. It was designed by
palace’s most valuable (348-ft) tower of the Stadshuset Ragnar Östberg (1866–1945)
For hotels and restaurants see p616 and p617


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ST OCKHOLM  607


and displays influences of
both the Nordic Gothic and
Northern Italian schools. Many
leading Swedish artists
contributed to the rich interior
design, including Einar Forseth
(1892–1988), who created the
stunning Byzantine-inspired
gold-leaf wall mosaics in the
Golden Room.
The building contains the
Council Chamber and 250
offices for administrative
staff. As well as a work place
for the city’s councillors, the
Stadshuset also provides a Kungsträdgården, known as Stockholm’s “open-air living room”
venue for special events, such
as the annual Nobel Prize 6 Kungsträdgården Completed in 1866, the museum
ceremony, which takes place houses some 500,000 paintings,
in the lavish Blue Hall.  Kungsträdgården. @ 2, 43, 55, 62, sculptures, prints, and drawings
65, 71, 76. Kungliga Operan: Tel 08- from the 15th to the early 20th
791 44 00. Ticket office Open noon–
5pm Mon–Fri, noon–3pm Sat. 8 by centuries. The focus of the
appt. 7 - = ∑ operan.se painting and sculpture section
is Swedish 18th- to early 20th-
The city’s oldest park, the King’s century art, but the 17th-century
Garden takes its name from Dutch and Flemish, and 18th-
when it was a royal kitchen century French schools are also
garden in the 15th century. well rep resented. Highlights
During the summer, open-air include Rembrandt’s The
theater, dancing, concerts, and Conspiracy of the Batavians under
food festivals take place here. Claudius Civilis (1661–62) and
In winter, the skating rink is a The Lady with the Veil (1769)
popular attraction. At the center by Swedish portrait painter
of the park is a bronze fountain Alexander Roslin. The decorative
(1866) by J.P. Molin, who also arts department contains 30,000
designed the statue of Karl XII works. Among the exhibits on
(1868) at the park’s southern show is Scandi navia’s largest
end. Overlooking this part of display of porcelain, glass, silver-
the park is the city’s royal opera ware, and furniture. Another
Stureplan, a popular meeting place house, the Kungliga Operan exhibit, Design 19002000, tracks
for Stockholmers (1898), whose ornate interior the history of design to the
includes the Gold Foyer, with present day. During renovations,
5 Stureplan and ceiling paintings by Carl Larsson. part of the collection will be on
Sturegallerian In the 16th century, the display at Konstakademien
kitchen garden was transformed (Fredsgatan 12) and Kulturhuset
 Östermalmstorg. @ 1, 2, 55, into a Renaissance garden. The Stadsteatern at Sergel’s Torg.
56, 91. Sturegallerian: Stureplan 4. 17th-century summer house built
Tel 08-453 52 00. Open daily (Sun:
pm only). Sturebadet: Tel 08-545 015 for Queen Kristina still stands on
00. Open daily. the park’s western flank.
After a fire at the Sturebadet 7 Nationalmuseum
swimming pool in 1985, the
Stureplan district was revamped Södra Blasieholmshamnen. Tel 08-519
and restored to its late 543 00.  Kungsträdgården.
@ 2, 55, 62, 65, 76. Closed for
19th-century glory. restoration until 2018. & 8 7
Part of the renovation of the ^ - = ∑ nationalmuseum.se
area included building a stylish
shopping mall, the Sture- The location of the National-
gallerian, which boasts some 60 museum, on the Strömmen
retail outlets. The Sturebadet channel, inspired the 19th-
public baths, within the mall, century German architect
have been rebuilt according August Stüler to design a
to their original late 19th- building in the Venetian and The Venetian-style building housing
century Art Nouveau design. Florentine Renaissance styles. Stockholm’s Nationalmuseum




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608  SC ANDINA VIA


Monogram (1955–59) by the late was like. There is also a
American painter and sculptor fascinating display of items
Robert Rauschenberg. Among retrieved in the salvage
the collection of Swedish works operation, including medical
is Nils Dardel’s Expressionistic equipment, an officer’s back-
painting, The Dying Dandy (1918). gammon set, and a chest still
neatly packed with clothing and
other personal belongings.
9 Vasamuseet Moored in the dock along side
Galärvarvsvägen 14, Djurgården. Tel the museum are two other
08-519 548 00. @ 67, 69, 76. v 7. 4 historic vessels, collectively
Djurgårdsfärja. Open daily. Closed Jan referred to as the Museifartygen.
1, Dec 23–25 & 31. & 7 8 9 0 The lightship Finngrundet was
The Moderna museet’s airy interior, - = ∑ vasamuseet.se built in 1903 and worked for 60
designed by Catalan Rafael Moneo Museifartygen: Tel 08-519 549 00. years before becoming a
Open mid-Jun–Aug: 11am–6pm daily. museum. Sankt Erik was commis-
8 Moderna Museet & 8 ∑ sjohistoriska.se sioned in 1915 and was Sweden’s
first seagoing icebreaker.
Exercisplan 4, Skeppsholmen. Tel
08-520 235 00.  Kungsträdgården. The centerpiece of the city’s
@ 65. Open Tue–Sun. Closed Jan 1, most popular museum is the
Easter Mon, Whit Mon, midsummer massive royal warship, Vasa,
eve, Dec 24, 25 & 31. & 7 ^ 9 which capsized in Stockholm
0 - = ∑ modernamuseet.se harbor on its maiden voyage in
1628. Rediscovered in 1956, the
The Museum of Modern Art vessel has been painstakingly
is an airy, contemporary building, restored to 95 per cent of its
designed by the Catalan original appearance.
architect Rafael Moneo in 1998. The warship is decorated with
The light and spacious venue around 700 sculpted figures and
provides a perfect setting for the carved ornaments, designed as Midsummer celebrations at the open-air
museum’s world-class collection a type of war propaganda. museum, Skansen
of international and Swedish King Gustav II Adolf, who
modern art, photography, and commissioned Vasa, was known 0 Skansen
film. Built partly underground, as the Lion of the North, so a Djurgårdsslätten 49–51. Tel 08- 442
the museum includes a cinema springing lion was the obvious 80 00. v 7. 4 Djurgårdsfärja.
and auditorium. choice for the figurehead on the Open daily. & 8 Jun–Aug (call
All the works on display date ship’s prow. It is 4 m (13 ft) long in advance). 7 0 - =
from between 1900 and the and weighs 450 kg (990 lb). ∑ skansen.se
present day. Two of the star Although visitors cannot
exhibits are The Child’s Brain board the ship, full-scale models The world’s first open-air museum
(1914) by Italian artist Giorgio of Vasa’s upper gun deck and opened in 1891 to show an
de Chirico, widely considered a the Admiral’s cabin provide a increasingly industrialized
precursor to the Surrealists, and glimpse of what life on board society how people once lived.
Around 150 buildings were
assembled from all over
Scandinavia, to portray the life
of peasants and landed gentry,
as well as Lapp (Sami) culture.
In the Town Quarter glass-
blowers and other craftsmen
demonstrate their skills. Two of
Skansen’s oldest “exhibits” are a
650-year-old wooden farm-
house from Dalarna, and a 14th-
century storehouse from Norway.
Nordic flora and fauna can be
seen, with moose, bears, and
wolves in natural habitat enclo-
sures and marine animals in an
aquarium. Gröna Lund theme
park offers 30 attractions, includ-
ing a love tunnel, haunted house,
white knuckle roller coasters,
The restored 17th-century royal warship, Vasa, at the Vasamuseet and hosts many music concerts.
For hotels and restaurants see p616 and p617


608-609_EW_Europe.indd 608 14/07/16 10:19 am

ST OCKHOLM  609

q Nordiska museet
Djurgårdsvägen 6–16. Tel 08-519 546
00.  Karlaplan. @ 69, 76. v 7. 4
Djurgårds-färja, Allmänna Gränd. Open
10am–5pm daily. Closed midsummer
eve, Dec 24, 25 & 31. & ^ 7 8
- = ∑ nordiskamuseet.se
Housed in a Renaissance-style
building, the Nordiska museet’s
collection was started by Artur
Hazelius (1833–1901), founder
of the Skansen open-air
museum, with the intention of
reminding future generations
of the old Nordic farming The magnificent Drottningholm palace, on the island of Lovön
culture. Today, the museum
has over 1.5 million exhibits originally made its name with inspired Nicodemus Tessin the
portraying everyday life in relics from the Viking era, as well Elder (1615–81) in his design
Sweden from the 1520s to as its outstanding collections of the royal palace. Begun in
the present day. Items on from the Middle Ages. The latter the 1660s on the orders of King
display range from priceless include one of the museum’s star Karl X Gustav’s widow, Queen
jewelry, to furniture, dolls’ exhibits – a richly gilded wooden Hedvig Eleonora, the building
houses, and replicas of period Madonna figure, from Sweden’s was completed by Tessin the
rooms, such as the splendid early medieval period. In the Younger. Today, the present
17th-century state bed- prehistoric collection is the royal family still uses parts of
chamber from Ulvsunda Alunda Elk, a ceremonial the palace as a private
Castle. Highlights include the stone axe, discovered residence. The most lavish
monumental gilded oak statue in 1920 at Alunda and rooms open to the public
of King Gustav Vasa (1924), and thought to have been include Queen Lovisa
16 paintings by the Swedish made around 2000 BC. Ulrika’s library, designed
author and dramatist August Since the early by Jean Eric Rehn
Strindberg (1849–1912). 1990s, the museum’s (1717–93), and
priceless collection Queen Hedvig
of gold and silver, Eleonora’s state
dating from the bedroom, decorated
Bronze Age to the in Baroque style.
Middle Ages, has Madonna figure in the The Baroque and
been on show in the Historiska museet Rococo gardens and
Guldrummet (Gold lush parkland
Room). Look out for the stunning surrounding the palace are
Elisabeth Reliquary, an 11th- dotted with monuments and
century goblet, with a silver splendid buildings. The blue
cover made in 1230 to enclose and gold Chinese Pavilion
the skull of St. Elisabeth. (Kina Slott) was built for Queen
Lovisa Ulrika in the latter half of
the 18th century, and contains
e Drottningholm many interesting artifacts from
China and Japan. The designer
10 km (6 miles) W of Stockholm.
Carl Milles’ huge statue of King Gustav Vasa Tel 08-402 62 80.  Brommaplan, of the Chinese Pavilion, Carl
in the Nordiska museet then bus 176, 177, 301, 323. 4 May– Fredrik Adelcrantz, was also
Sep from Stadshusbron. Open May– responsible for the
Sep: daily; Oct–Apr: Sat & Sun. Drottningholm Court Theater
w Historiska (Chinese Pavilion: May–Sep; Theater (Slottsteatern), which dates
museet Museum: May–Sep.) Closed public from 1766. This simple wooden
hols. & 8 ∑ royalcourt.se building is the world’s oldest
Narvavägen 13–17. Tel 08-519 556 00. theater still preserved in its
 Karlaplan, Östermalmstorg. @ 44, With its sumptuous palace, original form. The scenery,
56. Open daily. Closed Mon (Oct– theater, park, and Chinese with its wooden hand driven
Apr); some major holidays. & 7 8 pavilion, the whole of the machinery, is still in working
∑ historiska.se
Drottningholm estate has been order. In summer, the theater
included in UNESCO’s World hosts opera and ballet. There is
Sweden’s National Historical Heritage list. Contemporary also a museum, which focuses
Museum was opened in 1943. It Italian and French architecture on 18th-century theater.



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610  SC ANDINA VIA


E Birkamuseet
Tel 08-560 514 45. Open May 1–Sep
26: daily. & 8
P Gripsholms Slott
Tel 0159-101 94. Open mid-May–mid-
Sep: daily; mid-Sep–mid-May: Sat & Sun.
Closed Dec 18–Jan 2. 8 & =
3 Uppsala
* 200,000. k £ @
n Fyris Torg 8 (018-727 48 00).
∑ destinationuppsala.se
One of Sweden’s oldest settle-
ments, Uppsala, on the banks
of the Fyrisån river, is also a
lively university town. On the
last day of April, crowds of
students wearing white
caps parade through the
town for the traditional
spring season celebrations.
Dominating the town’s
attractive medieval center is
the Domkyrkan, Scandinavia’s
The Renaissance Gripsholms Slott, on the shore of Lake Mälaren largest Gothic cathedral. Its
chapel contains the relics of
2 Lake Mälaren and also houses the National Sweden’s patron saint, Saint Erik.
Portrait Gallery, with more than The onion-domed Gustavianum,
Birka 4 May–Sep daily from 4,000 paintings spanning some opposite the cathedral, dates
Stadshusbron, Stockholm. Mariefred:
4 in summer from Stadshusbron, 500 years. from the 1620s and houses the
Stockholm. £ from Centralstationen, Mariefred itself has a lovely Uppsala University Museum.
Stockholm to Läggesta, then bus or 17th-century church and an The museum’s exhibits include
steam train. 18th-century timber Rådhus a 17th-century anatomical
(law courts’ building), as well as theater and Egyptian, Classical,
To the west of Stockholm lies several specialist stores, galleries, and Nordic antiquities. Just a
Lake Mälaren, a vast stretch and antique shops. In summer, short walk away stands the
of water, whose pretty shores one of the most enjoyable ways Carolina Rediviva, the
and islands offer several day to travel there from Stockholm is impressive university library.
excursions from the city. aboard the Mariefred, a historic, Uppsala Slott, the town’s
Sweden’s first town, Birka, was coal-fired steamboat. The trip hilltop fortress, was built in the
founded on the island of Björkö takes around three and a half 16th century by King Gustav
in the 8th century, although hours and allows passengers to Vasa, although it was later
archaeological finds indicate enjoy the spectacular scenery destroyed by fire. Now restored,
that trading activity took place along the route. it also houses the Uppsala Art
here at least 1,500 years ago.
In the 9th and 10th centuries,
Birka grew into a busy Viking
center. The Birkamuseet has
displays of local archaeological
finds and provides a fascinating
insight into the daily lives of the
town’s early inhabitants. There
are also guided tours of
ongoing excavations.
The most striking feature of
the pretty town of Mariefred
is the majestic Gripsholms
Slott, built for King Gustav Vasa
in 1537, and later modified
under Gustav III in the 18th
century. The palace is known
for its well-preserved interiors, Aerial view of Uppsala, with its massive Gothic cathedral, the Domkyrkan
For hotels and restaurants see p616 and p617


610-611_EW_Europe.indd 610 14/07/16 10:19 am

SWEDEN  611


Museum. A short bus ride north
of the town center, Gamla
Uppsala is the site of the
Kungshögarna, royal burial
mounds believed to date from
the 6th century. The Historiskt
Centrum acquaints visitors with
the history, legends, and lore
surrounding the burial mounds
and contains displays of local
archaeological finds.

E Gustavianum
Akademigatan 3. Tel 018-471 75 71.
Open Tue–Sun. & ^ 8 7 =
∑ gustavianum.uu.se The Norderport, one of the gateways in Visby’s medieval city walls
+ Uppsala Slott
Slottet, entrance E. Tel 018-727 24 82. longboats during the towns’ but the Burmeisterska Huset
Open Tue–Sun. & 8 Jun–Aug. 7 colorful celebrations. (Burmeister’s House), dating
0 - = Around 15 km (9 miles) from 1645, is a fine surviving
from the provincial capital example of the architecture
E Historiskt Centrum and largely industrial town of the Post-Hanseatic period.
Disavägen. Tel 018-23 93 00. Open of Falun is Sundborn, where Strandgatan contains some
May–Aug: daily; at other times: call Swedish painter Carl Larsson of Visby’s most attractive
for information. & 7 - (1853–1919) and his wife, historic buildings, the former
Karin, a textile artist, lived in homes of wealthy merchants.
4 Dalarna the early 20th century. Their In the same street is the
work still has a big influence excellent historical museum,
£ Falun, Mora. @ Falun, Mora. on contemporary Swedish Gotlands Fornsal, which holds
n Trotzgatan 10–12 (023-640 04); design. The couple’s lakeside a collection of artifacts
Köpmannagatan 3A, Mora house is open to the public. spanning 8,000 years. The
(0248-79 72 00). Domkyrkan (Cathedral of
5 Gotland and St. Maria) below Kyrkberget
With its proud tradition of music, Visby is the only medieval church
dance, and handicrafts, Dalarna still intact and in use in Visby.
is Sweden’s folklore district. The * 60,000. k g to Visby. Away from Visby, the rest
charming rural landscape, n Donnerska Huset, Donners Plats 1, of Gotland is dotted with
dotted with red, wooden Visby (0498-20 17 00). ∑ gotland.info many unspoilt farmhouses,
cottages, attracts many tourists old medieval churches, and
seeking a quiet country retreat The island of Gotland, Sweden’s secluded beaches. Among the
in the summer. In winter, the most popular holiday most impressive sights are the
area’s mountain resorts, Sälen destination, boasts a stunning subterranean limestone caves of
and Idre, are packed with skiers. coastline, a rich cultural Lummelundagrottorna, 13 km
The main sights of interest are heritage, and a superb climate, (8 miles) north of the city, and,
located around Lake Siljan. enjoying more hours of off the northeastern tip of the
Mora, the largest of the sunshine than anywhere island, Fårö. This island, known
lakeside towns, was home else in the country. for its severe beauty, can be
to one of Sweden’s best- In the Viking Age, reached by a daily, half-hourly
known artists, Anders Gotland, the largest ferry from Fårösund. Besides
Zorn (1860–1920). Open island in the Baltic Sea, old fishing hamlets such as
daily, the Zorn Museum, was a major trading post Helgumannen, visitors can
at No. 36 Vasagatan, holds and later its capital, Visby, enjoy the long stretch of white
paintings by the artist, and became a prosperous sandy beach and the swimming
you can also visit his Hanseatic port. at Sudersands. Look out for
former home and studio. Surrounded by one Fårö’s spectacular raukar. These
Dalarna is famous of the best-preserved are huge limestone rock
for its midsummer city walls in the world, formations, rising out of the sea
festivals. In Visby is like a living on the west side of the island.
Leksand and Rättvik, Musician at a museum, with pretty
you may see midsummer festival step-gabled houses E Gotlands Fornsal
traditionally dressed in Dalarna and a web of narrow Strandgatan 14, Visby. Tel 0498-29 27
locals dancing and cobbled streets and 00. Open May–Sep: daily; Oct–Apr:
playing musical instruments or small squares. The original pm Tue–Sun. & 8 in summer.
rowing on the lake in wooden Hanseatic harbor is now a park, 7 -




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612  SC ANDINA VIA


7 Växjö
* 80,000. £ @ n Residenset,
Stortorget (0470-733 280).
∑ turism.vaxjo.se
Located right at the heart of
Småland, Växjö is an ideal base
from which to explore the
Glasriket, or “Kingdom of Glass,”
Sweden’s world-famous region
of glassworks. The town’s main
attraction is the Smålands
Museum, which tells the story
of 400 years of glassmaking, and
provides a good introduction to
a visit to any one of the many
glassworks scattered throughout
the surrounding forests.
The best-known glassworks
are at Orrefors and Kosta,
within 90 km (56 miles) of Växjö,
but other factories worth
visiting include Åfors and
Strömbergshyttan. Most of
the factories have excellent
glass-blowing demonstrations,
Poseidon fountain, at the end of Kungsportsavenyn in Gothenburg and all have a shop where you
can choose from a wide
selection of products. In the
6 Gothenburg is a favorite haunt of street past, Småland’s glassworks were
musicians and hawkers. On a more than just a place of work.
* 550,000. k 25 km (16 miles) E.
£ @ g n Kungsportsplatsen 2 side street off Avenyn, Röhsska Locals used to meet here in the
(031-368 42 00). ∑ gothenburg.com Museet is Sweden’s only evenings to bake herrings and
museum devoted to arts, crafts, potatoes in the furnace, while
Gothenburg (Göteborg), and industrial design. At the music was provided by a fiddler.
Sweden’s second largest city, southern end of the avenue is Today the Orrefors and Kosta
has a distinctive character, Götaplatsen, whose focal point glassworks arrange similar
with beautiful architecture, is the famous Poseidon fountain forms of entertainment,
pleasant café-lined boulevards, by the Swedish sculptor Carl known as hyttsill evenings.
a bustling harbor, and a Milles. The square is flanked Visitors to Växjö should
dynamic cultural life. by the fine Konstmuseet not miss the
Scandinavia’s largest seaport (Art Museum), which Utvandrarnas Hus
is dominated by the Göteborg- specializes in 19th- (House of Emigrants).
sutkiken, a huge lookout tower and 20th-century This interesting
providing stunning panoramic Scandinavian art. museum recounts the
views of the city and its Southeast of Göta- story of the one million
surroundings. A short walk platsen is Lisebergs Swedes who, in the face
west along the quayside are Nöjespark, the largest of famine in the late 19th
the daring, industrial-style amusement park and early 20th centuries,
Göteborgsoperan (Opera in Sweden. left Småland for a better
House), built in 1994, and the Swedish glassware life in America.
Maritiman, reputedly the E Maritiman from Småland
world’s largest floating ship Packhusplatsen 12. Tel E Smålands Museum
museum. Moored in the dock 031-10 59 50. Open May–Sep: daily. Södra Järnvägsgatan 2. Tel 0470-7042
are a dozen different types of & - = ∑ maritiman.se 00. Open Jun–Aug: daily; Sep–May:
vessel, all open to the public. Tue–Sun. & ^ 8 7 -
They include a light ship, a E Röhsska Museet E Kosta Glassworks
destroyer, and a submarine. Vasagatan 37–39. Tel 031-368 31 50. Stora vägen 96, Kosta, on route 28.
Open pm Tue–Sun. & ^ - =
The pulse of the city is ∑ rohsska.se Tel 0478-345 00. Open daily.
Kungsportsavenyn, simply Closed some public hols. 8 =
known as Avenyn, or “The E Konstmuseet
Avenue.” This 900-m- (2952-ft-) Götaplatsen 6. Tel 031-368 35 00. E Utvandrarnas Hus
long boulevard is lined with Open Tue–Sun. & ^ 7 - = Vilhelm Mobergsgatan 4.
restaurants, pubs, and cafés, and ∑ konstmuseum.goteborg.se Tel 0470-201 20. Open daily. &
For hotels and restaurants see p616 and p617


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Eyewitness Travel LAYERS PRINTED:
Catalogue template “UK” LAYER
(Source v2.6)
Date 12th July 2013
Size 125mm x 217mm

SWEDEN  613


8 Malmö
* 300,000. k g £ @ n across
from Central Station (040-34 1200).
Malmö is the capital of
the province of Skåne in
southwestern Sweden. In the
16th century, it was a major
fishing port, competing with
Copenhagen as Scandinavia’s
most influential city. Today, the
city is well-known for its busy
harbor, as well as for its rich
architectural heritage.
The imposing 16th-century
Malmöhus was built by the
Danish king Christian III, when
Skåne formed part of Denmark. Mälmo’s main square, overlooked by the Renaissance Rådhuset
It contains the Malmömuseer
(Malmö Museums), which (1611), Scandinavia’s largest, and museum of modern art which
include the Art Museum, the a wonderfully ornate pulpit. opened in 1975. Its vast
Museum of Natural History, Amid the city’s maze of café- contemporary exhibition space
the City Museum, the Science lined pedestrianized streets is houses an excellent collection of
& Technology and Maritime Lilla torg (Little Square), with its avant-garde and experimental
Museum, and the Kommendants cobblestones and charmingly art and installations, as well as
Hus (Commander’s House). restored houses. The square has photography and sculpture.
The Dutch Renaissance style a lively atmosphere and draws
is evident in Malmö’s impressive crowds of tourists and locals E Malmömuseer
Rådhuset (Town Hall), which alike. At Möllevångstorget, you Malmöhus, Malmöhusvägen 6.
dates from 1546 and dominates will find a part of town that Tel 040-34 44 00. Open 10am–5pm
the city’s main square, Stortorget. reflects a diversity of cultures, daily. Closed Dec 24, 25 & 31, Jan 1.
Northeast of here is the especially around the square. & - = ∑ malmo.se/museer
14th-century St. Petri’s Kyrka, There is a farmers’ market and E Malmö Konsthall
built in the Baltic Gothic style. many small ethnic shops. St. Johannesgatan 7. Tel 040-34 12 86.
The church’s most beautiful Located south of Lilla Torg is Open 11am–5pm daily. Closed Dec
features include the altarpiece Malmö Konsthall, a vibrant 24, 25 & 31, Jan 1. 8 7 - =

The Öresund Bridge
Despite a legacy of mutual warfare and rivalry, strongest cable stay bridge in the world, designed
in May 2000 the close ties between Denmark to carry the combined weight of a motorway and
and Sweden were strengthened with the a dual-track railway, while the tunnel is the world’s
inauguration of the Öresund Bridge. largest immersed tunnel in terms of volume. The
A 16-km- (10-mile-) long combined suspension project has been hailed as a renaissance for southern
bridge and tunnel now connects the Danish Sweden, which now seems poised to become a
capital, Copenhagen, with the Swedish provincial prospering center of trade, science, industry, and
capital, Malmö, on either side of the channel of culture at the heart of the cross-border Danish-
water known as the Öresund. The bridge is the Swedish Öresund region.















The majestic Öresund Bridge, connecting Sweden and Denmark





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614  SC ANDINA VIA

Practical & Travel Information until 6pm at least one day a
week. Bureaux de change can
With Sweden growing rapidly as an important tourist be found in the main cities and
destination, standards in the travel industry have improved airports, and normally provide a
greatly. Foreign visitors will enjoy a comfortable stay in better exchange rate than banks.
Sweden, not least because most people speak English. All the well-known credit cards
are widely accepted in Sweden.
Sweden’s infrastructure is constantly being improved – there
Withdrawals can be made from
are many new highways and the rail system has been upgraded cash machines using all
for high-speed trains. There is also a direct link to Denmark via internationally accepted credit
the Öresund Bridge. In Stockholm, public transportation on cards in conjunction with a PIN.
buses, subway trains, ferries, and local trains is efficient, and
covers the entire city and surrounding region. Communications
Public phone booths are owned
by the state-run Telia company,
Tourist Information Personal Security and are usually operated by card
Tourist information offices are Violent crime is rare in Sweden, only. Phonecards can be bought
located throughout Sweden, although pickpockets are at tobacconists and newspaper
and you can contact the known to frequent the busier kiosks, though normal credit
Swedish Travel & Tourism pedestrian shopping streets and cards or international telephone
Council for more information. train stations in the main cities. cards work just as well.
Stockholm’s official tourist Swedish emergency services Post offices are open 10am–
information organization is are efficient and reliable. The 6pm on weekdays and 10am–
the Stockholm Visitors Board. police are extremely helpful 1pm on Saturdays. Many of the
Check out www.totally and most speak good English. post offices have been closed
stockholm.se for information in and postal services moved to
English about where to eat, Health Issues some grocery stores instead.
what to do, concerts, arts, and Stamps can be purchased at
current events. No special vaccinations are these locations as well as at
Most museums in Sweden are necessary to visit Sweden. post offices, Pressbyrån kiosks,
open from 10 or 11am to 5 or Hygiene standards are among and tourist information offices.
6pm all year round, and often the highest in the world, and the
have longer opening hours in tap water is safe to drink. For Flying to Sweden
the summer. They are usually prescription and non-prescription
closed on Monday. medicines, visit a pharmacy Most major European cities have
(apotek), open during normal direct flights to Stockholm. Many
store hours. A 24-hour apotek of the world’s leading airlines
Visa Requirements service is available in major cities. serve Arlanda Airport, located
Passports are not required for about 40 km (25 miles) north of
visitors from most EU countries, the city center. International
but visitors from the US, Canada, Currency and Banking flights also serve Gothenburg
the UK, Ireland, Australia, and The Swedish unit of currency is and Malmö. Services from the
New Zealand still need a valid the krona, abbreviated to SEK or UK are operated by Finnair, SAS
passport. Citizens of almost all kr. Banking hours are generally (Scandinavian Airlines), British
countries can enter Sweden 10am–3pm Monday to Friday, Airways, and low-cost airline
without a visa. though some banks stay open Ryanair. Direct flights from
North America are available
The Climate of Sweden from SAS and Finnair, and from
STOCKHOLM the US airline American.
Sweden’s summers are
usually fairly cool, although
sometimes there can be °C/ºF Traveling by Ferry
heatwaves for several weeks 23/73 Ferries to Gothenburg from
at a time. Winter temperatures 14/57 Fredrikshavn in Denmark
often fall below freezing, but 10/50 12/54 (2–3 hours), and from Kiel in
7/44
0/32
it is rarely severely cold, except 2/36 -4/25 Germany (20–22 hours), are
in the far north. The snow may 6 8 3.5 1.5 operated by Stena Line.
lie until well after March in the hrs hrs hrs hrs Large passenger and car
north; however, in the rest of 21 65 48 27
the country some recent mm mm mm mm ferries sail to Stockholm from
winters have been virtually Finland; both Viking Line and
free of snow. month Apr Jul Oct Jan Tallink Silja Line operate daily
services from Helsinki (with a
crossing time of about 15 hours)


614-615_EW_Europe.indd 614 14/07/16 10:19 am

SWEDEN  615


and Turku-Åbo (with a crossing state-owned rail company may appear unexpectedly in the
time of about 11 hours). Statens Järnvägar (SJ) operates middle of the road.
Within Sweden, ferries to many of the long-distance
Visby in Gotland leave from trains. Some routes are run Traveling in Stockholm
Nynäshamn, about 75 km by private companies –
(47 miles) south of Stockholm. Tågkompaniet runs trains from Most of Stockholm’s sights and
There are two crossings daily Stockholm to Narvik, Umeå, and attractions can be reached by
by catamaran (2 hours 50 mins) Luleå in the far north of Sweden. subway train or bus. Tunnelbana,
and one or two crossings daily The journey time by high- the underground rail system,
by ferry (5 hours). Both services speed train from Malmö to has 100 stations on three main
are run by Destination Gotland. Stockholm is about 5 hours; the routes. Travelcards are available
journey from Gothenburg to for one-day, three-day, and
the capital takes about 3 hours. monthly periods, and are also
Traveling by Bus
valid on bus and ferry services.
Travel by long-distance bus is Traveling by bus is a pleasant
inexpensive and hassle-free. There Traveling by Car and economical way to see the
is an excellent network of express Visitors driving from Denmark city. The best routes for sight-
services, such as those run by can use the Öresund toll bridge seeing are 3, 4, 46, 62, and 69,
Swebus, between the larger between Copenhagen and which cover the central area
towns and cities in south and Malmö. On the Swedish side, and stop near many sights.
central Sweden, and between the bridge connects with the Boats and ferries provide a
Stockholm and towns in the north. E4, a 550 km (340 mile) highway delightful way of getting to
to Stockholm. know the city and its environs.
Fines for speeding are high, Strömma Kanalbolaget runs
Rail Travel and even if the limit is only various hour-long excursions
Rail travel to Sweden from slightly exceeded, you can lose during the summer months.
mainland Europe is fast and your license. The maximum A worthwhile purchase for any
comfortable. Journey times have permitted blood alcohol level visitor is the Stockholm Card,
been cut considerably with the is so low that drinking is which allows free travel on
opening of the Öresund Bridge; effectively banned for drivers. Tunnelbana trains, local buses
traveling from Copenhagen to When driving in the Swedish and trains, free parking at official
Malmö now takes less than 40 countryside, be particularly city parking areas, and free
minutes. Within Sweden, the cautious, as moose and deer admission to over 80 sights.
DIRECTORY
Tourist Offices ∑ sweden.embassy. Airlines Tallink Silja Line
gov.au Tel 08-22 21 40.
Stockholm Visitors Finnair ∑ tallink.com
Board Canada Tel 0771-78 11 00 Viking Line
Klarabergsgatan 23,
Sergels Torg 5, Stockholm. (toll-free in Sweden). Tel 08-452 40 00.
Tel 08-50 82 85 00. 6th Floor, Stockholm. Tel 0870-241 4411 (UK). ∑ vikingline.se
∑ visitstockholm.com Tel 08-453 30 00. Tel 800-950 5000 (US).
Ireland ∑ finnair.com
Swedish Travel & Hovslagargatan 5, Traveling in
Tourism Council Stockholm. Ryanair Stockholm
Drottninggatan 33, Tel 08-545 040 40. Tel 0900-100 05 50. Strömma
Stockholm. ∑ ryanair.com Kanalbolaget
Tel 08-789 10 00. UK Tel 08-120 04 000.
∑ visitsweden.com Skarpögatan 6-8, SAS
Stockholm. Tel 0770-727 727 ∑ strommakanal
UK Tel 08-671 30 00. (toll-free in Sweden). bolaget.com
5 Upper Montague Street, ∑ ukinsweden. Tel 087-1226 7760 (UK).
London W1H 2AG. fco.gov.uk Swebus
Tel 020-7108 6168. US Tel 800-221 2350 (US). Tel 0771-218 218.
∑ scandinavian.net
∑ swebus.se
US Dag Hammarskjölds
Grand Central Station, Väg 31, Stockholm. Ferry Services
New York, NY 10017. Tel 08-783 53 00.
Tel 212-885 9700. Destination Gotland
∑ usemb.se
Tel 0771-22 33 00.
Embassies Emergency ∑ destination
Australia Numbers gotland.se
Klarabergsviadukten 63, Ambulance, Police Stena Line
Stockholm. and Fire Tel 077-057 5700.
Tel 08-613 29 00. Tel 112. ∑ stenaline.se

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616  SWEDEN

Where to Stay

EASTERN STOCKHOLM: Price Guide
Stockholm Hotel Lydmar  Prices are based on one night’s stay in
Luxury Map C3 high season for a standard double room,
CENTRAL STOCKHOLM: Södra Blasieholmshamnen 2, 103 24 inclusive of service charges and taxes.
Clarion Hotel Sign  Tel 08-22 31 60  under 1,000 SEK
Boutique Map A3 ∑ lydmar.com  1,000 to 2,500 SEK
Östra Järnvägsgatan 35, 101 26 Classic luxury and comfort,  over 2,500 SEK
Tel 08-676 98 00 with complimentary Wi-Fi,
∑ clarionsign.com movies, and breakfast. GOTHENBURG: Hotell
The city’s largest hotel has 558 Barken Viking 
rooms. Each floor is dedicated EASTERN STOCKHOLM: Boutique
to a Scandinavian designer. Hotel Skeppsholmen  Lilla Bommens Torg 10, 411 04
Boutique Map D4 Tel 031-63 58 00
CENTRAL STOCKHOLM: Gröna Gången 1, 111 86 ∑ barkenviking.com
First Hotel Reisen  Tel 08-407 23 00 Sleep aboard a three-star
Historic Map C4 ∑ hotelskeppsholmen.com ship moored in Gothenburg’s
Skeppsbron 12, 111 30 A design hotel in a historic harbor. There are 29 superior
Tel 08-22 32 60 building, with modern and rooms and a restaurant.
∑ firsthotels.com stylish interiors.
In an 18th-century building MALMÖ:
overlooking the waterfront. Some Hotel Mäster Johan 
rooms have sauna and Jacuzzi. Modern
Rest of Sweden Mäster Johansgatan 13, 211 21
DK Choice GOTHENBURG: Best Tel 040-664 64 00
∑ masterjohan.se
CENTRAL STOCKHOLM: Western Hotel Eggers  Mäster Johan offers standard,
Hotel Sven Vintappare  Luxury business, and superior rooms
Historic Map B4 Drottningtorget, 411 03 or suites. Gym and sauna in the
Sven Vintappares Gränd 3, 117 27 Tel 031-333 44 40 basement; bike hire available.
Tel 08-22 41 40 ∑ hoteleggers.se
∑ hotelsvenvintappare.se Rugs, tapestries, chandeliers, and UPPSALA: Clarion
A house whose centuries-old old-world charm in this luxurious Hotel Gillet 
façade masks a modern interior. hotel. The rooms are beautifully Modern
The wooden floors are a nod decorated and staff are attentive. Dragarbrunnsgatan 23, 753 20
to the past, while a number Tel 018-68 18 00
of other original features – DK Choice ∑ clarionhotelgillet.com
including fireplaces and Hotel Gillet has modern rooms,
ceramic heaters – have been GOTHENBURG: Clarion as well as a popular restaurant
incorporated into the suites. Hotel Post  and bar. The sauna, gym, and
All have small kitchenettes. Boutique pool are free for guests.
Drottningtorget 10, 411 03
Tel 031-61 90 00 VÄXJÖ: Clarion Collection
CENTRAL STOCKHOLM: ∑ clarionpost.com Hotel Cardinal 
Story Hotel  A design hotel housed inside Modern
Boutique Map C3 a former post office building. Bäckgatan 10, 352 30
Riddargatan 6, 114 35 Hotel Post has all mod cons in Tel 047-072 28 00
Tel 08-54 50 39 40 a historic setting – 500 modern ∑ clarionhotel.com
∑ storyhotels.com rooms, a sun terrace, a pool, This Clarion hotel offers all
Bohemian-inspired design hotel and a pool bar on the rooftop. modern amenities, including
with free Wi-Fi, organic cotton This is also Sweden’s first hotel high-speed Internet. Guests
linen, and plenty of art. with a health and beauty also enjoy a complimentary
center, including a spa. full organic breakfast, with
CENTRAL STOCKHOLM: tea, coffee, and fruit.
Berns Hotel 
Luxury Map C3
Näckströmsgatan 8, 111 47
Tel 08-566 322 00
∑ berns.se
This grand old dame of luxury
has hosted everyone from the
Dalai Lama to Marlene Dietrich.
EASTERN STOCKHOLM: Af
Chapman Hostel 
Boutique Map D4
Flaggmansvägen 8, 111 49
Tel 08-463 22 66
∑ stfchapman.com
Stay in a well-known city landmark:
a renovated ship built in 1888. Colorful furnishings at the luxurious Berns Hotel, Stockholm

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Eyewitness Travel LAYERS PRINTED:
Listings template “UK” LAYER
(Source v1.3)
Date 19th February 2013
Size 125mm x 217mm

TR A VELERS ’ NEEDS  617

Where to Eat and Drink

Price Guide
Stockholm Prices are for a three-course meal
for one, half a bottle of house wine,
CENTRAL STOCKHOLM: and all extra charges.
Nalen   under 450 SEK
450 to 1,000 SEK

Traditional Swedish Map B2  over 1,000 SEK
Regeringsgatan 74, 111 39
Tel 08-50 52 92 00 Closed Sun
The menu at Nalen focuses on and shows are held in the
simple Swedish dishes, made evening, and there is also a
using seasonal ingredients. nightclub on the premises.
A bar, nightclub, and concert
hall are also on the premises. GOTHENBURG: Smaka 
Traditional Swedish
CENTRAL STOCKHOLM: Vasaplatsen 3, 411 26
Smak  Tel 031-13 22 47
Fine Dining Map B2 Rustic home-cooking in a
Oxtorgsgatan 14, 111 57 pleasant red-brick building. There
Tel 08-22 09 52 Closed Sun is outdoor seating in summer
This unique restaurant offers a and a good selection of beers.
different way to eat. Diners Vintage posters and terracotta floors adorn
choose from three, five, or seven the dining room at Salt & Brygga, Malmö GOTHENBURG:
courses, each named by a flavor. Sjömagasinet 
SOUTHERN STOCKHOLM: Fine Dining
CENTRAL STOCKHOLM: Bistro Ruby & Grill Ruby  Adolf Edelsvärds Gata 5, 414 51
Sturehof  Bistro Map C4 Tel 031-775 59 20 Closed Sun
Modern Swedish Map C2 Österlånggatan 14, 111 31 This Michelin-starred restaurant
Sturegallerian 42, Stureplan 2, 114 46 Tel 08-20 60 15 (grill); serves classic and innovative
Tel 08-440 57 30 08-20 57 76 (bistro) Closed Sun seafood dishes in an atmospheric
Boasting an illustrious history (bistro only) environment.
as one of Stockholm’s first This is the place to visit for
seafood restaurants, Sturehof delicious charcoal-grilled beef, MALMÖ:
serves the freshest daily catch pork, and lamb. Ruby also offers Bastard Restaurant 
and other Swedish produce. a weekend brunch at noon. European
Mäster Johansgatan 11, 211 21
DK Choice SOUTHERN STOCKHOLM:  Tel 040-12 13 18 Closed Sun & Mon
Pubologi
One of the trendiest places in
CENTRAL STOCKHOLM: Modern Swedish Map C4 Malmö. The chefs at Bastard
Operakällaren  Stora Nygatan 20, 111 27 use local, organic ingredients
Fine Dining Map C3 Tel 08-50 64 00 86 Closed Sun in their dishes. Craft beers and
Operahuset, Karl XII’s Torg, 111 86 Diners can choose a menu when organic wines also available.
Tel 08-676 58 00 Closed Sun they make their reservation for a
& Mon customized treat at a restaurant DK Choice
One of Sweden’s historic that focuses on using Swedish
culinary institutions, the and Nordic ingredients. MALMÖ: Salt & Brygga 
Michelin-starred Operakällaren Traditional
(meaning “Opera Cellar”) got its Sundspromenaden 7, 211 16
name as early as 1787, when it Tel 040-611 59 40
was indeed the cellar under- Rest of Sweden Salt & Brygga is known for
neath the Opera House. The using local, organic produce
magnificent surroundings GOTHENBURG: and fish from sustainable
complement the exquisite Fiskekrogen  sources, as well as Fair Trade
dining experience. Also on the Fine Dining coffee. Incorporating the finest
premises are Café Opera, Lilla Torget 1, 411 18 ingredients from Skåne, this
Operabaren, and the Bakfickan. Tel 031-10 10 05 Closed Sun restaurant re-creates traditional
One of the best seafood Swedish cuisine with exciting
restaurants in Stockholm, innovative influences. Organic
EASTERN STOCKHOLM: Mathias Fiskekrogen has been serving the bread and a salad buffet are
Dahlgren Matsalen  tastiest catch since 1977. There is included in all lunchtime meals.
Fine Dining Map C3 a choice of set menus, a seafood
Grand Hôtel Stockholm, Södra buffet, and a variety of fish dishes.
Blasieholmshamnen 6, 103 27 UPPSALA: Villa Anna 
Tel 08-679 35 84 Closed dinner; Sun GOTHENBURG: Modern Swedish
& Mon Restaurang Trägår’n  Odinslund 3, 753 10
Head here for a fine dining Modern Swedish Tel 018-580 20 00 Closed Sun
experience, complete with wine Nya Allén 11, 411 38 The award-winning chefs at Villa
pairings. The two Michelin- Tel 031-10 20 80 Closed Sun Anna concoct culinary delights
starred kitchen serves gourmet This large restaurant is a stone’s from rustic Swedish fare. The
Swedish fare with a modern twist. throw away from Avenyn, the emphasis is on local and organic
The bistro is also open for lunch. city’s main thoroughfare. Events ingredients whenever possible.
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SC ANDINA VIA  619

NORWAY


Norway’s great attraction is the grandeur of its scenery. The landscape is one
of dramatic contrasts: great mountain ranges, sheer river valleys, mighty
glaciers, deep green forests, and the spectacular fjords that indent the western
coast. In the far north, above the Arctic Circle, visitors can marvel at the
Northern Lights and the long summer nights of the Land of the Midnight Sun.
The fjords that make the coastline of follow the nomadic life of their forefathers
Norway one of the most jagged in the but the majority now live and work in
world were carved by glaciers during the much the same way as Norwegians.
last Ice Age. As the glaciers began to
recede about 12,000 years ago, the sea History
level rose and seawater flooded back to It is for the Viking Age (c.800–1050) that
fill the deep, eroded valleys. Norway’s Norway is best known. As a result of
extraordinary geography has had a great overpopulation and clan warfare, the
influence on its people and development. Norwegian Vikings traveled to find new
In the past, scarcity of agricultural land led lands. They mostly sailed west, their
to economic dependence on the sea. longships reaching the British Isles,
In contrast, Norway today has abundant Iceland, Greenland, and even America.
hydro electric power as well as rich oil and The raiders soon became settlers and
gas deposits on its continental shelf. those who remained at home benefited
The first settlers arrived 10,000 years ago both from the spoils of war and the fact
as the Scandinavian icesheets retreated. that farmland was no longer in such
They were hunters of reindeer, deer, bears, short supply. The country was united by
and fish. By the Bronze Age (1500–500 BC), Harald the Fairhaired in the 9th century.
rock carvings show that these early This great age of expansion, however,
Norwegians had learnt to ski. Other effectively ended in 1066, when King
inhabitants of the region were the Sami Harald Hardråde was defeated at the
(formerly known as the Lapps), with battle of Stamford Bridge in England.
origins in the northern regions of Russia, The 11th and 12th centuries were
Finland, Sweden, and Norway, where they marked by dynastic conflicts and the
haved lived for thousands of years by rising influence of the church. In 1217,
fishing and herding reindeer. Some still Haakon IV came to power, ushering in a




















The harbor at Bergen, the main center for tours of Norway’s fjords
View over Lake Ringedalsvatnet, with the rock of Trolltunga (the troll’s tongue) in the foreground



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620  SC ANDINA VIA

Edvard Grieg, dramatist Henrik Ibsen,
Expressionist painter Edvard Munch,
and polar explorer Roald Amundsen.
Following independence from Sweden
in 1905, the government set about
industrializing the country, expanding
the merchant fleet, and establishing
healthcare and education as the
cornerstones of a welfare state.
Norwegian explorer Roald Amundsen checking his position after Norway pursued a policy of neutrality in
reaching the South Pole in 1911 World War I and World War II. The price
was high in World War I, since German
“Golden Age,” when Norway flourished submarines attacked shipping
under strong centralized government. indiscriminately and Norway lost half
In 1262, both Iceland and Greenland its chartered tonnage. In World War II,
came under Norwegian rule. However, Germany occupied the country, but
in the following century, after suffering encountered a massive resistance
terrible losses in the Black Death, Norway movement. Norway’s part in the war
was reduced to being the least important helped it gain in status and it became
of the Scandinavian countries. From 1380 one of the founding members of the UN
to 1905, it was under the rule first of in 1945 and entered NATO in 1949.
Denmark and then of Sweden. The biggest issue of the postwar years
The 19th century saw the growth of a has been whether or not to join the EU.
national identity and a blossoming of Twice Norway has refused, but the
Norwegian culture. Most of Norway’s economy thrives regardless, thanks in
most famous individuals were born in this large part to revenues from North Sea oil.
century, among them the composer
Language and Culture
KEY DATES IN NORWEGIAN HISTORY There are two official Norwegian languages:
AD 800–1050 Viking Age Bokmål (book language), a modernization
866 Vikings control most of England of old Dano-Norwegian used in the days
900 Norway united under hereditary rule of Danish rule, and Nynorsk, based on rural
1030 Christianity established dialects, which was codified in the 19th
1217–63 Reign of Haakon IV century as part of the resurgence of
1380–1814 Norway in union with Denmark nationalism. Despite the government’s
1660 Modern boundaries of Norway established, efforts to preserve the use of Nynorsk, it is
through Treaty of Copenhagen in decline. As in other parts of Scandinavia,
1814 Union with Sweden, but Norwegian you don’t need to speak Norwegian to get
parliament, the Storting, has extensive powers by, since most people speak English.
1887 Norwegian Labour party is founded Perhaps because independence was so
1905 Norway established as a separate kingdom long in coming, most Norwegians are
1940–45 German occupation of Norway during
World War II great patriots. National Independence
Day (May 17) is celebrated the length
1969 Discovery of oil and gas in North Sea
1972 Following a referendum, Norway declines and breadth of the country, with festive
membership of the EU gatherings even at remote farms.
1994 Second referendum on membership of the EU; Norwegians also have a great attach-
majority again votes “no” ment to outdoor pursuits – fishing,
2011 Seventy-seven people die in terror attacks hiking, and skiing – and many families
2013 Norway celebrates 100 years of women’s suffrage have a hytte (cottage or cabin) in the
2014 Norway celebrates 200 years of its Constitution
mountains or on the coast.




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NOR W A Y  621

Exploring Norway Norway

Norway is so long and narrow that, if Oslo remained fixed 0 km 250 Tromsø
and the rest were turned upside down, it would stretch all 0 miles 250
the way to Rome. There are two main areas of attraction:
Oslo, a lively, open city, particularly in summer, and Bergen See main map
and the fjords in the west. Elsewhere, up to 95 percent of Trondheim SWEDEN
the country is forested or uncultivated. Transportation
(which comprises domestic flights, trains, buses, and FINLAND
coastal ferries) is reliable, though services can be cut back NORWAY Helsinki
severely in the winter months, especially in the north. Bergen OSLO Tallinn
ESTONIA
Stockholm
LATVIA
Copenhagen
DENMARK LITHUANIA
Tromsø
17
E6


E6
Trondheim
Orkanger
Selbusjøen
65
Cruise ships moored in the Geirangerfjord between
Bergen and Trondheim
Molde
Åndalsnes
Ålesund Oppdal 30
Stranda 9 Aursjøen 3
Femunden
Sights at a Glance Geiranger 15 E6
1 Oslo pp622–6 Otta
2 Stavanger 55
3 Bergen and the Fjords Bygdin Glåma Storsjøen
4 Trondheim Høyanger Tyin Lågen E6
E16
Sogndal Lillehammer
See inset map NORW A Y
5 Tromsø Voss Begna Gjøvik Elverum
Bergen Hamar
Hirtshals Krøderen
7 Sperillen
7 4
Rødberg Kongsvinger
Norwegian 13 Mår 40 Hønefoss 7
Sea 11 Møsvatnet OSLO Lillestrøm
11 Drammen Øyeren
Notodden E18
Haugesund Kongsberg
Nisser Skien Stockholm
Key Stavanger Fredrikstad
Fyresvatnet Porsgrunn Halden
Highway Hirtshals Sandnes 39 Kragerø
Major road
42
Railroad Egersund Arendal SWEDEN
International border Grimstad
E18
Kristiansand Skagerrak
Mandal
Gothenburg
(Göteborg)
Malmö
Hirtshals
0 kilometers 100 DENMARK Kiel, Frederikshavn,
Copenhagen
0 miles 100
For hotels and restaurants see p632 and p633 For keys to symbols see back flap
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622  SC ANDINA VIA


1 Oslo

Founded around 1048 by Harald Hardråde, Oslo is the oldest
of the Scandinavian capital cities and occupies an enormous
area, with about 1 million inhabitants. The heart of the city is
largely made up of late 19th- and early 20th-century
Neoclassical buildings, wide avenues, and landscaped parks.
The city center is compact and easy to explore on foot, and
most of the city’s sights are within walking distance of each Nordmarka
other. The city is a cultural hotspot, with a large number of
museums and art galleries. The Nordmarka area of
forests to the north of the center gives a glimpse of
the beautiful Norwegian countryside. Majorstua

K I R K E V E I E N BISLETTGATA WALDEMAR Gardermoen
FROGNERPARKEN M A J O R S T UVEIEN
BOGSTADVEIEN
MADSER U D ALLÉ PROF. DAHL S GATE JOSEFINES THRANES GATE T HO RVA L D M SOFTIENBERG- Airport
HOLTEGATA
LØVENSKIOLD S G A T E
PARKEN
GATE
VÅR FRELSERS
Sights at a Glance H A LDVAN SVARTES GATE GYLDENLØVES GATE URANIENBORGVEIEN PARKVEIEN GRAVLUND MARID A LSVEIEN SOFIENBERGGATA
SARS GATE
SK ØVVEIEN
1 Akershus Slott and HAFRSFJORDGATA FROGNERVEIE N BRISK EBYVEIEN RIDDERVOLDS P I L E S T RED E T Kunstindus- AK ER SV E I E N N O RD R E GAT E EY ER S G AT E TO F TE S G ATE TRONDHE I M S V EIEN
Hjemmefrontmuseet SLOTTS trimuseet TØYEN- FINNM ARK G ATA
HAGEN
U L LEVÅLSVEIEN
2 Opera House BYGDØY ALLÉ GATE PARKVEIEN PARKEN S T. OLAVS GATE MØLLERGATA HAUSMANNS GT. LAKKEGATA
3 Rådhus Nobel- National- TØYEN
COLB JØ R N S E NS G AT E
4 Aker Bygge, Tjuvholmen, NIELS JUELS GATE instituttet Theatret KRISTIAN IV'S GATE Akerselva Tøyen/
and Astrup Fearnley DRONNING BLANCAS V EIEN F R O G N E R S T R A N D A FREDERIK STANGS GATE DRAMMENSVEIEN KARL JOHANS G. A K E RSGA T A HENRIK IBSENS GATE M OTZFELDTS GATE Munchmuseet
Museum C.ADELERS G. MUNKEDAMSVEIEN S TO RTINGSGATA Stortinget STORGATA NYLANDSVEIEN VAHLS GT. TØYENGATA
LØKKE-VEIEN
DR A M MENS V E I E N
5 Kongelige Slottet Stortinget Jernbanetorget GRØNLAND ÅK E BERGVEIEN KJØLBERGGATA
6 Nationaltheatret BYGDØY Frognerkilen M U N K E D A MSVE I E N PRINSENS GATE Grønland
JENS BJELKES GATE
7 Nasjonalgalleriet ( E 1 8 ) RÅD H USGATA DRONNINGENSGATE Oslo SCHWEIGAARDS GATE
Sentralstasjon
8 Munch-museet TJUVHO- H A U S M A N N S G A T E
9 Vigelandsparken MUSEUMSVEIE N LMEN Pipervik a AKERSHUSS TRAN D A KONGENS GATE
0 Frammuseet H U K A V E N Y BISP EGATA
q Kon-Tiki Museum LANGVIKSVEI E N AKERSHUSSTRANDA Bjørvika Bispevika
w Vikingsskipshuset E18
FRE DRIKSBORGV E I E N
e Norsk Folkemuseum
Kiel
Copenhagen,
Frederikshavn
HOVEDØYA
Getting Around
Oslo has around 60 bus and
tram routes. Most buses set
out from the Oslobussterminal
a few hundred meters northwest
of Oslo Sentralstasjon, the main
train station. Route 30 goes to
the museums on the Bygdøy
Peninsula. From mid-March to
mid-October, you can also reach
the peninsula by ferry from the
boarding point by the Rådhus.
The Tunnelbanen is most useful
for reaching the city suburbs,
Boats moored along the quayside, in front of the Akershus Slott including Nordmarka.
622-623_EW_Europe.indd 622 14/07/16 10:10 am

OSL O  623


1 Akershus Slott
and Hjemmefront­
museet
Festningsplassen. v 12 to Christiana
Torv. Akershus Slott:  Stortinget.
Tel 23 09 39 17. Open May–Aug: daily,
Sep–Apr: Sat & Sun. Closed public
hols. & 8 Akershus Festning:
Open daily. Hjemmefrontmuseet:
Nordmarka Tel 23 09 32 80. Open daily.
Closed public hols. & =
Located on a knoll overlooking
Busy shopping street in Oslo’s city center the Oslofjorden, the Akershus
Majorstua Slott (Akershus Castle) is the
city’s most notable memorial to
K I R K E V E I E N BISLETTGATA WALDEMAR Gardermoen 1300, the castle was besieged
FROGNERPARKEN M A J O R S T UVEIEN medieval times. Built around
several times before King
BOGSTADVEIEN
MADSER U D ALLÉ PROF. DAHL S GATE JOSEFINES THRANES GATE T HO RVA L D M SOFTIENBERG- Airport Christian IV of Denmark
LØVENSKIOLD S G A T E
HOLTEGATA
PARKEN
transformed it into a lavish
H A LDVAN SVARTES GATE GYLDENLØVES GATE URANIENBORGVEIEN PARKVEIEN GRAVLUND MARID A LSVEIEN SOFIENBERGGATA Renaissance residence in the
GATE
VÅR FRELSERS
TRONDHE I M S V EIEN
HAFRSFJORDGATA BYGDØY ALLÉ COLB JØ R N S E NS G AT E PARKEN P I L E S T RED E T OLAVS GATE U L LEVÅLSVEIEN AK ER SV E I E N MØLLERGATA N O RD R E GAT E EY ER S G AT E TO F TE S G ATE LAKKEGATA SARS GATE TØYEN- FINNM ARK G ATA 1620s. A fortres
SK ØVVEIEN
Kunstindus-
castle, known as the Akershus
trimuseet
PARKVEIEN
SLOTTS
HAGEN
FROGNERVEIE N
Festning, is still in use today.
BRISK EBYVEIEN RIDDERVOLDS
GATE
S T.
Little remains of the castle’s
TØYEN
Akerselva
DRONNING BLANCAS V EIEN F R O G N E R S T R A N D A FREDERIK STANGS GATE NIELS JUELS GATE Nobel- LØKKE-VEIEN MUNKEDAMSVEIEN S TO RTINGSGATA PRINSENS GATE STORGATA NYLANDSVEIEN VAHLS GT. TØYENGATA Munchmuseet KJØLBERGGATA former gl
National-
Theatret
M OTZFELDTS GATE
HAUSMANNS GT.
instituttet
Tøyen/
DRAMMENSVEIEN
being relatively bare, although
A K E RSGA T A HENRIK IBSENS GATE
the tapestries in the Romerike
KRISTIAN IV'S GATE
Stortinget
Hall are impressive. You can
KARL JOHANS G.
DR A M MENS V E I E N
C.ADELERS G.
Stortinget
also visit the royal chapel and
Jernbanetorget
BYGDØY
Grønland
JENS BJELKES GATE
M U N K E D A MSVE I E N
GRØNLAND ÅK E BERGVEIEN
members of the present
( E 1 8 )
Sentralstasjon
Frognerkilen
Norwegian dynasty lie buried.
TJUVHO- RÅD H USGATA DRONNINGENSGATE Oslo SCHWEIGAARDS GATE the royal mausoleum, where
LMEN Pipervik a AKERSHUSS TRAN D A KONGENS GATE The most somber period
MUSEUMSVEIE N
LANGVIKSVEI E N H U K A V E N Y AKERSHUSSTRANDA Bjørvika Bispevika E18 BISP EGATA in the Akershus Slott’s history
H A U S M A N N S G A T E
was during World War II, when
the occupying Nazis tortured
FRE DRIKSBORGV E I E N and shot members of the
Norwegian resistance here.
Pictorial displays at the
Hjemmefrontmuseet
(Resistance Museum), located
Kiel by the gates of the castle,
Copenhagen,
Frederikshavn provide a moving account
HOVEDØYA
of the war in Norway, from
occupation through
resistance to liberation.
Key
Sight / Place of interest
Pedestrian street
Highway 0 meters 750
0 yards 750
Akershus Slott, Oslo’s finest surviving
medieval monument
For keys to symbols see back flap
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624  SC ANDINA VIA

2 Opera House Aker Brygge, an old shipyard, is
now modern leisure complex
Kirsten Flagstads Plass 1. Tel 21 42 21
21.  Bjørvika. @ 32, 34, 70, 504. with shops, restaurants, bars,
Open 10am–11pm Mon–Fri, cinemas, and a theater.
11am–11pm Sat & Sun. 7 8 daily Continue along the Havne-
(Sat & Sun in English). ∑ operaen.no promenade and you enter
vibrant Tjuvholmen. The draw
The home of the Norwegian here is modern art. The most
National Opera and Ballet is renowned gallery is the Renzo
situated right on the waterfront Piano-designed Astrup Fearnley
at Bjovika, and much of this Museum, which houses works
building is positioned in or by Damien Hirst, Jeff Koons, and
under the sea. Its defining Takashi Murakami.
feature is its sloping roof, which Oslo’s Nationaltheatret, overlooking its
is covered in white marble and 5 Kongelige Slottet attractive, busy piazza
granite, creating the illusion of
glistening ice. There are three Drammensveien 1. Tel 22 04 87 00.  6 Nationaltheatret
main performance spaces, and Nationaltheatret. @ 30, 31, 32, 34, 45, Johanne Dybwads Plass 1. Tel 22 00
concerts are also held in the 81, 83. v 11, 13, 17, 18, 19. Open end 14 00.  Nationaltheatret. @ 30, 31,
foyer or on the roof. Jun–mid-Aug: 6am–9pm daily. & 8 32, 34, 45, 81, 83. v 11, 13, 17, 18, 19.
compulsory. 7 =
Open Aug–mid-Jun: daily. 8 (call in
3 Rådhus and advance). 0 =
Aker Brygge The Neoclassical Royal Built in 1899, Norway’s National
Palace stands in the
Rådhuset i Oslo, Fridtjof freely accessible Palace Theater is Neoclassical in style,
Nansens Plass. Tel 23 46 16 gardens (Slottsparken). and flanked by imposing statues
00.  Nationaltheatret, Without gates or walls, of the nation’s two greatest
Stortinget. @ 30, 31, 32, 45, the gardens symbolize 19th-century playwrights –
81, 83. v 12, 13, 19. Open Norway’s “open” Henrik Johan Ibsen and
daily. Closed public hols. monarchy. The palace Bjørnstjerne Bjørnson, who is
& (May–Sep). 7 = was built in 1825–48 little known outside Scandinavia
∑ oslokommune.no for King Karl Johan. these days, but was a prolific
Every day at 1:30pm, writer of plays and poetry
Inaugurated in 1950 the ceremony of the during the 19th century. The
to commemorate changing of the guard theater has four stages, and a
Oslo’s 900th year, takes place. On Norway’s varied program, with all perfor-
the Rådhus (City Hall) National Day on May mances given in Norwegian.
is the city’s most 17, the palace Visitors can make special
conspicuous landmark Viking warrior detail becomes the focal arrangements to have a guided
and has become a from Rådhus main doors point of celebra tions. tour of the interior.
popular symbol of
civic pride. The colorful murals,
sculptures, and frescoes inside Henrik Johan Ibsen (1828–1906)
the building celebrate Born in the southern town of Skien, the young Ibsen was brought
Norwegian artistic and up in poverty, after his timber merchant father suffered bankruptcy
intellectual achievements, as in 1836. Managing to escape, he lived first in Kristiania and then
well as those in exploration. Bergen, where he began writing and producing his first dramas.
The Rådhus is famous as the In 1864, he left for Germany and Italy, where
place where the Nobel Peace he spent the next 27 years. His most
Prize is presented. Past recipients famous plays include Peer Gynt (1867),
have included Mother Teresa A Doll’s House (1879), and Hedda Gabler
and Barack Obama. (1890). Regarded as one of the
founders of modern drama, Ibsen’s
4 Aker Bygge, legacy to the European stage was
his introduction of themes such as
Tjuvholmen, and the alienation of the individual from
Astrup Fearnley a morally bankrupt society, loss of
Museet religious faith, and women’s desire
to free themselves of their roles as
Astrup Fearnley Museet, wives and mothers – a clear
Strandpromenaden 2. Tel 22 93 60 60. departure from the unchallenging
 Nationaltheateret. @ 21, 32, 33, theater of the time. After returning
54, 122, 129, 132. v 12, 16. to Norway, he died in 1906. Playwright Henrik Johan Ibsen
Open Tue–Sun. ∑ afmuseet.no

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by Gauguin and Cézanne, and overwhelming and means that
early 20th-century paintings displays are frequently changed.
by Picasso and Braque. The The core of the collection is the
museum also holds an series of outstanding paintings
important collection of from the 1890s, although other
Norwegian art. Among the periods of his life are well
paintings on display are some represented. Munch was also a
spectacular fjord and country prolific graphic artist, and the
scenes from the 19th-century print room reveals his talents
National Romantic period by using etching, lithogra phic,
leading Norwegian landscape and woodcut techniques. The
painters, notably Johan basement houses a permanent
Christian Dahl. There are also display of Munch’s life and
works by Realist artists such as times, and there is also a
Harriet Becker, Christian Krohg, comprehensive library.
and Erik Werenskiold, as well as
Simple, red-brick facade of the sculptures by Gustav Vigeland.
Nasjonalgalleriet The Munch room contains
such important works as The
7 Nasjonalgalleriet Sick Child (1885) and The Scream
Universitetsgaten 13. Tel 21 98 20 00. (1893), the swirling forms and
 Nationaltheatret. @ 11, 17, 18. colours of which were to
v 13, 19. Open Tue–Sun. greatly inspire the growing
Closed public hols. = 7 Expressionist movement.
∑ nasjonalmuseet.no
8 Munchmuseet
Norway’s biggest collection of
art is housed in this grand 19th- Tøyengata 53. Tel 23 49 35 00. 
century building. It includes an Tøyen. @ 20. Open Jun–Aug: daily;
impressive collection of works Sep–May: Tue–Sun. Closed Jan 1, May
by the country’s most famous 1, May 12, Dec 24–25. 7 & = 0
painter, Edvard Munch, from ∑ munch.museum.no
the 1880s to 1916. The main View back towards the city across
part of the collection is housed One of Scandinavia’s leading Vigelandsparken sculpture park
on the second floor. There is a artists, Edvard Munch (1863–
strong international collection 1944) left an amazing 1,100 9 Vigelandsparken
including Impressionist paintings, 4,500 drawings, and Kirkeveien. Tel 23 49 37 00.
paintings by Manet, Monet, and 18,000 graphic works to the city  Majorstuen. @ 20, 45. v 12.
Degas, Post-Impressionist works of Oslo when he died. Most of Open daily. 0 -
these are housed at
the Munchmuseet, Vigelandsparken lies within
which opened in 1963. the larger green expanse of
Munch led a Frognerparken. The park takes
troubled life, plagued its name from the larger-than-
by melancholy and life sculptures of Gustav
depression due, in Vigeland (1869–1943), which
part, to the untimely form extraordinary tableaux of
deaths of his favorite fighting, play, and love. Work on
sister and younger display includes a series of 58
brother. He never- bronzes of men, women, and
theless remained a infants, flanking the footbridge
highly prolific artist over the river and leading up to
whose intensely his most famous creation, a
psychological work 17-m- (56-ft-) granite obelisk of
remains one of the no fewer than 121 intertwined
great cornerstones figures depicting the cycle of
of early Expressionist life. One of Oslo’s most visited
art. Since the attractions, the park is a massive
Munchmuseet is a artistic creation that took
fairly small museum, Vigeland 40 years to complete.
only a fraction of his Some other examples of his
work can be shown at work can be seen at Vigelands-
Young Woman on the Shore (1896) by Edvard Munch, any one time, which museet near the park or at
at the Munchmuseet prevents it from being the Nasjonalgalleriet.




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The Bygdøy Peninsula 9th-century longships. All three
were unearthed from burial
No trip to Oslo is complete without a visit to the Bygdøy mounds in Norway, and funeral
Peninsula, which lies off the western edge of the city. The goods from each of the vessels
area offers beaches, walking, numerous historic sites, and are on display, including
fascinating museums. These include a folk museum showing ceremonial sleighs, chests, and
tapestries. Viewing platforms
traditional ways of life, the Vikingsskipshuset, which traces allow visitors to study the
Norway’s maritime history, and others celebrating the famous magnificent 22 m by 5 m (72 ft
Norwegian explorers Roald Amundsen and Thor Heyerdahl. by 16 ft) Oseberg ship and the
slightly larger Gokstad boat,
both of which were discovered
0 Frammuseet on the western side of the
Bygdøynesveien 36. Tel 23 28 29 50. Oslofjord. Fragmented sections
@ 30. 4 Open daily. & of a smaller boat, the Tune,
∑ fram.museum.no remain much as they were
when they were found on the
Designed in 1892 by Scottish- eastern side of the fjord in 1867.
Norwegian shipbuilder Colin
Archer, the Fram is best known e Norsk
as the ship that carried Folkemuseum
Norwegian explorer Roald
Amundsen on his epic journey Museumsveien 10. Tel 22 12 37 00.
to the South Pole in 1911. @ 30. 4 Open daily. Closed Jan 1,
The Fram was an ideal vessel May 17, Dec 24, 25 & 31. & 7
for this undertaking. Its sides ∑ norskfolkemuseum.no
are perfectly smooth, making
it impossible for ice to get a Thor Heyerdahl’s vessel, Ra II, at the Established in 1894, this
grip on the hull. Visitors can Kon-Tiki Museum excellent attraction is devoted
ease themselves between the largely to Norwegian rural life,
remarkable array of beams in the Caribbean to prove that the and visitors should set aside half
the ship’s hull and marvel at the ancient peoples of Africa or a day to view the many (over
assortment of equipment – Europe might have had contact 150) restored buildings. These
ranging from a piano to surgical with South America. These, include barns, store houses, and
instruments – that the crew and other eventful sagas, are a splendid stave church (c.1200)
managed to take with them. outlined in the exhibition. with typical steep, shingle-
A series of fascinating displays covered roofs and dramatic
around the ship relate the w Vikingskipshuset dragon finials. The indoor
history of Arctic exploration. collections consist of displays
Huk Aveny 35. Tel 22 85 19 00. @ 30. of folk art, toys, folk dress, the
q Kon-Tiki Museum 4 Open daily. Closed public hols. playwright Ibsen’s study, and
a pharmacy museum. On
& 7 ∑ khm.uio.no
Bygdøynesveien 36. Tel 23 08 67 67. Sundays in the summer there
@ 30. 4 Open daily. Closed public Norway is best known for are displays of folk dancing,
hols. 7 & ∑ kon-tiki.no its Viking explorers, and this and guides demonstrate skills
museum contains three such as weaving tapestries or
On display at the superb beautifully preserved baking traditional flatbread.
Kon-Tiki Museum are the
unbelievably fragile-looking
vessels used by Thor Heyerdahl
to make his legendary journeys
across the Pacific and Atlantic
Oceans. The aim of his voyages
was to prove that trans-oceanic
contact was possible between
ancient civilisations. The
balsawood Kon-Tiki raft carried
Heyerdahl and a crew from
Peru to Polynesia in 1947,
confirming his theory that the
first Polynesian settlers could
have sailed from pre-Inca Peru.
In 1970, he sailed a papyrus
boat, Ra II, from Morocco to A reassembled turf-roofed house at the Norsk Folkemuseum
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The Vikings

From the 8th to the 11th century, the Vikings, or Northmen, sailed from their
overpopulated fjords in Scandinavia and made their way across Europe, plundering,
looking for trade, and offering mercenary service. The Swedes (or Varangians) established
themselves throughout the Baltic and controlled the overland route to the Black Sea,
while the Danes invaded parts of England, Portugal, and France. The Norwegians,
however, were unparalleled in their success, and their adventures became the stuff of
Viking legend. After overrunning the Orkneys, the Shetlands, the Hebrides, and parts of
Ireland, the Norwegians established colonies in the Faroes, Iceland, and Greenland. They
even sailed to the coast of North America. The Vikings were undoubtedly the most feared
Europeans of their day, and their impact on history was immense. Fear of the Viking raid
unified many otherwise disparate tribes and kingdoms, and many new political states
were created by the Vikings themselves. Despite profiting from the spoils of war, it was
their success as settlers and traders that was the Vikings’ greatest achievement.

Viking religion was dominated by the
supreme gods Odin (god of war), Thor
(thunder), and Frey (fertility). Valhalla
was their equivalent of heaven. Warriors
were buried with whatever it was thought
the afterlife required, and the rich were
entombed in ships, often with their
servants. Most had converted to
Christianity by the late 10th century,
but Sweden remained pagan well
into the 11th century.
Burial “ships” made of stone for warriors from poorer families, Frey, god of
near Aalborg in Denmark fertility
The prow,
curled into
The longship was the a “shepherd’s
main vessel of the Viking crook,” formed
raid. Longer, slimmer, a high
and faster than the usual defensive barrier.
Viking ship, it had a large
rectangular sail and
between 24 and 50 The keel was
oars. The sail was used in characteristically
open sea and navigation shallow to
was achieved by taking allow for flat
beach landings.
bearings from the stars.
The beautifully restored Oseberg ship, unearthed in 1904, on display at
the Vikingskipshuset in Oslo
Weapons and armor were the Jewelry design often showed Arab
backbone of Viking culture, so the and eastern European influence,
blacksmith’s art was always in demand. which illustrates the extent of the
Bronze and iron swords were endlessly Viking trading network. Gold and
produced, many of which followed silver were a sign of
their bearers to the grave. Arrows, axes, Gold armlet wealth and prestige,
shields, helmets, and coats of although many
mail were stan dard military ornaments were made of bronze,
gear, examples of which pewter, colored glass, jet, and amber.
survive in pristine
condition today. Picture stones were memorial blocks
that celebrated the glory of dead
relatives. They were carved with
pictures and runic writing.
Viking helmet with
noseguard Picture stone from Gotland





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Stavanger’s main attraction shops, and restaurants – make
is Gamle Stavanger (Old up an attractive harborside.
Stavanger), west of the harbor. Close by the harbor is the busy
Visitors can wander down the Fisketorvet (Fish Market), where
narrow cobble-stone streets fresh fish, produce, and local
of this old city quarter, amid crafts can be found. Also nearby
the white-painted wooden are the 11th-century Mariakirken
houses, and imagine life here (St. Mary’s Church) and the
in the 19th century. An Hanseatiske Museum – an
interesting museum in the excellently preserved late Hansa
town is the Hermetikkmuseet house from the 18th century.
(Canning Museum) at No. 88 Around Lille Lungegårds-vann,
Øvre Strandgate, which tells the city’s central lake, are a
the story of Stavanger’s number of interesting art
fisheries. Overlooking the galleries. Finally, no visitor to
harbor, the Norsk Oljemuseum Bergen should miss the chance
(Norwegian Petroleum to take a trip up Mount Ulriken
The waterfront at Stavanger’s Museum) gives an insight into for a panoramic view of the area.
attractive marina North Sea oil exploration. A cable car takes you from the
edge of the city to the summit.
2 Stavanger 3 Bergen and
* 130,000. k g £ @ the Fjords
n Domkirkeplassen 3 (51 85 92 00).
_ Maijazz (May); Glamat Food Festival * 255,000. k g £ @
(Jul). ∑ regionstavanger.com n Strandkaien 3 (55 55 20 00).
_ Bergen International Festival
Stavanger is best known today (May–Jun). ∑ visitbergen.com
as Norway’s major oil town, with
North Sea oil having provided Surrounded by no fewer than
its prosperity since the 1970s. seven mountains, Norway’s most
Earlier in its history, in the mid- westerly port offers the visitor
19th century, the town grew plenty to do and see, although it
rich on herring exports. rains relentlessly here. Founded
Small enough to be seen on in the 12th century, Bergen is
foot, much of the center of one of Norway’s prettiest cities,
Stavanger is modern. One with a medieval quarter dating Elaborate Baroque pulpit in the
exception is the cathedral, the back to the days when the port Mariakirken, Bergen
Stavanger Domkirke, which was an important center of
dates back to the 12th century European trade for the all- Environs
but has been restored several powerful German Hanseatic Just outside the city is Trold-
times since. Later 17th-century League. Many of the surviving haugen, an enchanting villa
additions include a flamboyant Hanseatic buildings are found filled with paintings, prints,
pulpit and a number of huge, on the Bryggen (quay), where and other memorabilia, where
richly carved memorial tablets brightly-painted old wooden Norway’s most famous
hanging in the aisles. warehouses – now museums, composer Edvard Grieg (1843–
1907) spent the later years of
his life and composed much
of his work. A short way
beyond is Fantoft Stavkirke,
a traditional, ancient wooden
church, originally built in
Sognefjord, but moved here.
Bergen also makes a good
base for viewing the western
fjord scenery, which extends
from south of Bergen to distant
Kristiansund in the north. Boat
trips leave from Bergen
throughout the summer (a few
run year-round), visiting local
fjords. One of the closest is
Osterfjord, but Hardangerfjord,
with its majestic waterfalls, is
The stunning scenery of the Sognefjord, north of Bergen perhaps the most spectacular.
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To the north, Sognefjord, at 206 has been home to the
km (128 miles) long and 1,308 Norwegian Crown jewels
m (4,291 ft) deep, is the deepest and the modest but
and longest fjord in the world. beautiful regalia of the
King, Queen, and Crown
P Troldhaugen Prince, which are on
Troldhaugveien 65, Paradis. Tel 55 92 display in a side chapel.
29 92. Open May–Sep: daily; Jan–Apr: Another reminder of
Mon–Fri. & 7 8 - = Trondheim’s medieval past
∑ troldhaugen.com is provided by the wharves
alongside the harbor and
4 Trondheim the narrow streets that
wind between brightly
* 180,000. k g £ @ n Nordre painted warehouses.
Gate 11 (73 80 76 60). _ St. Olav Although the buildings
Festival (Jul). ∑ trondheim.com you see today only date
back to the 18th century,
Called Nidaros (which means the the layout of the area is
mouth of the River Nid) until the much as it was in earlier Tromsø’s modern concrete and glass Arctic Cathedral
16th century, Trondheim has times when fishing and
benefited from having a good timber were the main source Due to the high latitude, the
harbor and being situated in a of the town’s wealth. sun remains above the horizon
wide and fertile valley. Founded Other attractions of the city from May 21 to July 21, and the
in AD 997, the city was for many include Scandinavia’s largest sky often glows red throughout
centuries the political and wooden building, the Stifts­ the night. Tromsø is also a
religious capital of Norway, with gården, built between 1774 good place to view the
the earliest Parliament (or Ting) and 1778 as a private home. Northern Lights.
being held here. This period saw Today. it serves as the king’s Since Tromsø is a compact
the construction of Trondheim’s official residence in Trondheim. town, it is possible to stroll
most beautiful building – and The Nordenfjeldske Kunst­ through the center, which sits
one of Norway’s architectural industri museum (Decorative upon a small hilly island
highlights – the Nidaros Arts Museum) houses an reached by a bridge, in around
Cathedral, begun around 1077. extensive collection of furniture, 15 minutes. The major sight
Until the Reformation in the tapestries, ceramics, silver, and here is the striking white
16th century, the cathedral glassware from the 16th to the Ishavskatedralen (Arctic
attracted pilgrims from all over 20th century, including a fine Cathedral). The cathedral is
Scandinavia. Notable features of collection of Art Nouveau intended to represent the
this colossal building include the pieces, plus contemporary type of tent used by the Sami,
Gothic-style great arched nave arts, crafts, and design. the region’s indigenous semi-
and a magnificent stained-glass nomadic people. Tromsø’s
rose window above the entrance E Nordenfjeldske Polarmuseet (Polar Museum)
– the work of Gabriel Kjelland in Kunstindustrimuseum documents the history of the
1930. Since 1988, the cathedral Munkegaten 5. Tel 73 80 89 50. local economy – seal trapping
Open Jun–Aug: daily; Sep–May: played a big part until the
Tue–Sun. Closed some public hols. 1950s – and polar expeditions,
& = 8 7 ∑ nkim.no
in particular the voyages
undertaken by Norwegian
5 Tromsø explorer Roald Amundsen.
Tromsø is a famous starting
* 74,000. k g @ n Kirkegata 2 point for Arctic expeditions,
(77 61 00 00). _ Northern Lights and Amundsen made his last
Festival (Jan). expedition from here to the
Arctic ice cap, where he died in
Situated inside the Arctic circle, 1928. Visitors should not miss
Tromsø, the so-called capital the opportunity to take the
of North Norway, is a lively cable car (Fjellheisen) up the
university town. There are mountain behind the city to
not many specific sights and get a real sense of the setting
attractions in the town itself, of this polar town.
but its fine mountain and fjord
setting makes it well worth a E Polarmuseet
visit. The most spectacular time Søndre Tollbugata 11. Tel 77 62 33 60.
Detail from the facade of Nidaros to stay is in the summer, during Open daily. Closed public hols. &
Cathedral, Trondheim the period of the “midnight sun.” = ∑ visitnorway.com




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Practical & Travel Information change money at hotels, some
camp sites, and (in Oslo) exchange
Norway has a reputation as an expensive destination, but the booths. The greater the amount,
cost of traveling around the country is fairly reasonable. the better rate you will get.
Norway’s public transportation system is comprehensive and Major credit and charge cards
reliable, although visitors should expect a reduced service are accepted in most places.
Banks are open from 8:15am
during winter. Once within the Arctic Circle, there is a period to 4pm Monday to Wednesday
around midsummer during which the sun never sets (the and Friday, and 8:15am to 5pm
“midnight sun”). Conversely, there is a “polar night” around on Thursday. Between June
midwinter, during which the sun never rises at all. These and August, they close
effects occur for longer periods the farther north you travel. 30 minutes earlier.
Tourist Information Visa Requirements Communications
Norway has around 350 local Citizens of the EU, the US, Canada, Telecommunications and
tourist offices, as well as almost Australia, and New Zealand do postal services in Norway are
20 regional offices. Visitors to not require a visa for stays of very efficient and reliable. Coin­
the capital can use Oslo less than three months. Citizens operated phone booths are
Turistinformasjon in the of most EU countries can use a being phased out in favor of
center of town. For brochures national identity card instead of those that will only take phone­
and more general information a passport for entry to Norway. cards (Telekort). These cards can
on all parts of the country, be purchased in news kiosks.
contact the Norwegian Tourist Safety and Emergency E­mail can be collected at
Board before you leave home. Internet cafés (all major cities
As well as providing useful Norway is a safe country, have at least a couple)
information on hiking routes and crime against tourists is or at most public libraries.
and guided mountain tours, relatively rare. Standards of Thanks to state subsidies
Den Norske Turistforening healthcare are excellent. Hotels and loans, there is a large
(Norwegian Mountain Touring and tourist offices have lists of number of newspapers in
Association) sells a range of local doctors, or you can look in Norway. Most British and
maps and hiking gear, and the telephone directory under some American newspapers
maintains more than 300 doctors (leger). You will have to are sold in large towns from
mountain huts throughout pay a fee for a doctor’s appoint­ Narvesen newsstands.
the country. ment and for prescriptions, but
EU citizens with an E111 form Tax-Free Shopping
will be reimbursed for part of
Opening Hours
the cost of any treatment. Visitors to Norway can benefit
Many museums and attractions from the nation’s decision not to
are open all year round, Banking and Currency join the EU by taking advantage
although a few have seasonal of the tax­free shopping scheme.
opening hours. Stores are The Norwegian unit of currency This means that if you buy goods
generally open from 10am is the Norwegian krone (NOK). over a certain value from any one
to 8pm Monday to Friday, Cash and traveler’s checks can of the 3,000 outlets that take part
and from 10am to 6pm on be changed at banks and post in the scheme, you can have the
Saturday. Most stores are offices for a small commission. VAT refunded. You will receive a
closed on Sundays. Outside banking hours, you can tax­free voucher, which you
must present upon your
The Climate of Norway departure from the country. The
OSLO goods must be unused for you
The climate of Norway to receive the refund.
experiences intense seasonal
changes. The short summer °C/ºF
(roughly mid­June to mid­ 21/70 Arriving by Air
August) can be quite hot, Most international flights arrive
though rain is regular and 9/48 12/54 9/48 at Oslo’s airport, Gardermoen,
0/32
temperatures in the far 1/34 3/37 -6/21 60 km (37 miles) north of the
north can plunge during 5 7 3 2 city, although some carriers also
the summer nights. Winter hrs hrs hrs hrs fly to Stavanger, Bergen, Tromsø,
is long and dark, and the 48 79 99 58 and Kristiansand. From Britain,
north is subject to sub­zero mm mm mm mm daily direct flights are operated
temperatures which can month Apr Jul Oct Jan
persist for months at a time. by British Airways, SAS
(Scandinavian Airline System),
Norwegian, and Ryanair.



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NOR W A Y  631


SAS offers direct flights from It is a superb way to see changeable and can be
other major European cities, Norway’s dramatic coastline. purchased via Ruter.no.
such as Stockholm, Berlin, Call ferry companies OVDS or
and Amsterdam. TFDS to make a reservation. Buses and Taxis
Flying to Norway from North
America may involve changing Rail Travel Buses cover the length and
planes, although SAS, Norwegian breadth of Norway, and are
and a few other airlines offer Many rail services link Norway useful for getting to places the
direct flights to Oslo from New with the rest of Scandinavia and train network does not reach.
York and other major cities. mainland Europe. The major Most long-distance buses are
Domestic flights can be point of entry to Scandinavia operated by the national
useful if you are short on time – from mainland Europe is company, NOR-WAY
especially if you wish to visit the Copenhagen, where trains Bussekspress.
far north – and are operated by a cross the new Øresund Bridge Taxis are expensive, but in
variety of carriers, including SAS. before heading to Oslo. Within Oslo, the excellent public
Norway, the Norges Statsbaner transport ation network means
(Norwegian State Railroad) that you can avoid using taxis.
Traveling by Sea
operates a more extensive
Ferries from Germany, Denmark, network in the south than
and Sweden make daily in the north, but there are Traveling by Car
crossings to Norway. It is also routes to all the major towns. Car rental is fairly costly, although
possible to travel directly from A Norway rail pass allows Norway’s main roads are fast and
Newcastle in the UK, but the unlimited travel on all trains in very well maintained. All of the
journey can take as long as 27 Norway for a specified number major international car rental
hours. Routes are operated by of days in a given period. The companies are represented.
Fjord Line and DFDS Seaways. pass is available from rail ticket Road regulations are strictly
Once in Norway, you are agents in Norway and abroad. enforced, particularly those
never very far from the sea and Oslo’s Tunnelbanen (T-bane) relating to drunken driving.
local ferries are an invaluable consists of eight metro lines, Speeding can incur hefty fines,
means of transportation across which converge in the city even if you are driving only a few
the fjords. Hurtigruten, the center. The system runs from miles above the limit. Most main
Norwegian Coastal Express around 6am to 12:30am. roads have cameras.
service, sails from Bergen to In Oslo and Akershus county, Due to poor visibility and
Kirkenes, far above the Arctic the Ruter system covers the bus, bad weather, many minor
Circle, putting in at 35 ports tram, and T-bane metro. Tickets roads in Norway close during
en route. for all of these services are inter- the dark winter months.
DIRECTORY
Tourist UK US Ferry Services
Information 5th Floor, Charles House, Henrik Ibsen Gate 48, DFDS Seaways
Den Norske 5 Regent Street, Oslo. Tel 21 30 85 40. Tel 22 41 90 90.
Turistforening London SW1Y 4LR. Emergencies Tel 08702 520 524 (UK).
Tel 40 00 18 68. Tel 020-7839 2650. ∑ dfds.co.uk
∑ turistforeningen.no US Ambulance Fjord Line
Tel 113.
Tel 55 54 87 00.
Oslo 655 Third Avenue, Fire Tel 0191-296 1313 (UK).
Turistinformasjon 10017 New York. Tel 110. ∑ fjordline.co.uk
Jernbanetorget 1, Tel 212-885 9700. OVDS/TFDS
0154 Oslo. Police Tel 76 96 76 93 (OVDS).
Tel 81 53 05 55. Embassies Tel 112. Tel 77 64 82 00 (TFDS).
∑ visitoslo.com Australian Consulate Air Travel
Norwegian Tourist Strandveien 20, Lysaker. Gardermoen Airport Rail Travel
Board Tel 67 58 48 48. Tel 815-502 50. Norges Statsbaner
∑ visitnorway.com Tel 81 50 08 88.
Canada Norwegian
Norway Wergelandsveien 7, ∑ norwegian.no Buses
Innovasjon Norge, Oslo. Tel 22 99 53 00. SAS NOR-WAY
Akersgate 13, Tel 815-20 400. Bussekspress
Postboks 440 Sentrum, UK Tel 0845-60 727 727 (UK). Karl Johans Gate 2, Oslo
0104 Oslo. Thomas Heftyes Gate 8, Tel 800-221 2350 (US). (Visitor Centre). Tel 815-
Tel 22 00 25 00. Oslo. Tel 23 13 27 00. ∑ flysas.com 444 44. ∑ nor-way.no





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632  NOR W A Y

Where to Stay

CENTRAL OSLO WEST: Price Guide
Oslo Hotel Continental  Prices are based on one night’s stay in
Luxury Map D3 high season for a standard double room,
CENTRAL OSLO EAST: Stortingsgata 24–26, 0117 inclusive of service charges and taxes.
HTL Grensen  Tel 22 82 40 00  under 1,000 NOK
Modern Map D3 ∑ hotelcontinental.no  1,000 to 2,000 NOK
Grensen 20, 0159 Renowned luxury hotel set in a  over 2,000 NOK
Tel 22 01 64 00 building more than a century old.
∑ htlhotels.com STAVANGER: Victoria 
Rooms at this hotel close to DK Choice Historic
Oslo’s main shopping street Skansegata 1, 4006
feature floor-to-ceiling windows. CENTRAL OSLO WEST: Tel 51 86 70 00
The Thief  ∑ victoria-hotel.no
CENTRAL OSLO EAST: Comfort Boutique Map C3 Opened in 1990, the Victoria is
Hotel Grand Central  Landgangen 1, 0252 an elegant hotel, with a popular
Historic Map D3 Tel 24 00 40 00 on-site bar and restaurant.
Jernbanetorget 1, 0154 ∑ thethief.com
Tel 22 98 28 00 This amazing hotel – located DK Choice
∑ nordicchoicehotels.no next to the Astrup Fearnly
Individually designed rooms in Museet – is packed with art. TRONDHEIM: City Living
an original train station building Even the hotel’s linen carries a Schøller Hotel 
dating back to 1874. top designer’s name. Magnificent Modern
views of the Oslofjord. Dronningens Gate 26, 7011
CENTRAL OSLO EAST: Scandic Tel 73 87 08 00
Vulkan  ∑ cityliving.no
Boutique Map D2 Simple yet elegant rooms
Maridalsveien 13A, 0175 Oslo and self-catering apartments,
Tel 21 05 71 00 Rest of Norway some split over two levels,
∑ scandichotels.com in a superb location across
A modern hotel in the trendy BERGEN: from the Stiftsgården royal
Grunerlokka district. Scandic Neptun  residence. The hotel offers room
Boutique service and is perfect for longer
CENTRAL OSLO EAST: Valkendorfsgaten 8, 5012 stays, especially for families.
Grand Hotel  Tel 55 30 68 00
Luxury Map D3 ∑ scandichotels.com
Karl Johans Gate 31, 0159 A hotel that is synonymous with TRONDHEIM: P Hotels
Tel 23 21 20 00 good food, wine, and art. Trondheim 
∑ grand.no Modern
Amenities at this 1874 hotel BERGEN: Steens Hotel Nordre Gate 24, 7010
include a gorgeous spa and pool. Bed & Breakfast  Tel 73 80 23 50
Historic ∑ p-hotels.no
CENTRAL OSLO WEST: Parkveien 22, 5007 A chic, pleasant hotel with family
Carlton Hotel Guldsmelden  Tel 55 30 88 88 rooms and indulgent breakfast in
Boutique Map C3 ∑ steenshotel.no bed option available.
Parkveien 78, 0254 This elegant, peaceful villa from
Tel 23 27 40 00 1890 retains a traditional style. TRONDHEIM:
∑ hotelguldsmeden.dk Britannia Hotel 
Rooms – some with four-poster STAVANGER: Thon Hotel Historic
beds – have traditional Maritim  Dronningens Gate 5, 7011
furnishings. Near the Royal Palace. Modern Tel 73 80 08 00
Kongsgata 32, 4005 ∑ britannia.no
CENTRAL OSLO WEST: Tel 51 85 05 00 A luxury hotel dating back to
Frogner House ∑ thonhotels.com 1897, the Britannia offers all the
Apartments  Modern and functional in design, latest gadgets and facilities. There
Modern Map C2 the Maritim is a well-priced hotel. is also a great spa with a pool.
Skovveien 8, 0257
Tel 93 01 00 09
∑ frognerhouse.no
Elegant and airy apartments, with
the option of self-catering.
CENTRAL OSLO WEST:
Thon Hotel Cecil 
Modern Map D3
Stortingsgata 8, 0161
Tel 23 31 48 00
∑ thonhotels.com
Modestly sized yet comfy rooms.
A buffet breakfast and light
evening meals are served daily. Luxurious bed furnishings at The Thief hotel in Oslo

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TR A VELERS ’ NEEDS  633

Where to Eat and Drink

Price Guide
Prices are based on a three-course
meal for one, with half a bottle of
house wine, and all extra charges.
 under 300 NOK
 300 to 600 NOK
 over 600 NOK
BERGEN: Wesselstuen 
Fine Dining
Øvre Ole Bulls Plass 6, 5012
Tel 55 55 49 54
Dating back to 1957, Wesselstuen
is one of Bergen’s legendary
dining rooms. The menu features
The simple decor belies the inventive cuisine on offer at Maaemo, Oslo Norwegian food and includes
treats such as fillet of reindeer
Oslo DK Choice served with pickled red onion.
CENTRAL OSLO EAST: STAVANGER: Café Sting 
CENTRAL OSLO EAST: Maaemo  Bistro
Mathallen  Scandinavian Map D2 Valbergjet 3, 4006
International Map D2 Schweigaards Gate 15, 0191 Tel 99 11 38 78
Maridalsveien 17, 0178 Tel 91 99 48 05 Enjoy coffee, cakes, and a range
Tel 40 00 12 09 With its two Michelin stars, of light meals in a simple yet
Oslo’s food hall is a one-stop shop Maaemo is perhaps Norway’s charming café that has fast
for Norwegian delicacies such as best restaurant. It is possible become a Stavanger institution.
moose sausage and seafood, as well to spend an entire evening Good choice for a cheap lunch.
as many international offerings. enjoying a 25-course seasonal
menu, which comes paired DK Choice
CENTRAL OSLO EAST: with fine wines. The dishes
Fiskeriet  take diners on an adventure STAVANGER: Straen
Seafood Map D3 through the flavors of Fiskerestaurant 
Youngstorget 2, 0181 Scandinavia. Booking essential Seafood
Tel 22 42 45 40 Closed Sun 60 days in advance. Nedre Strandgate 15, 4005
A must-visit for all seafood fans. Tel 51 84 37 00 Closed Sun
The delicious food at Fiskeriet Amusingly touted as being
includes a Norwegian take on CENTRAL OSLO WEST: “world-famous throughout
fish ‘n’ chips. Bar seating. Smalhans  Norway,” Straen Fiskerestaurant
Scandinavian Map D3 is indeed one of the best
CENTRAL OSLO EAST: Waldemar Thranesgate 10, 0171 seafood eateries in the country.
Kaffistova  Tel 22 69 60 00 The interior is straight out of
Scandinavian Map D3 Located in upscale St. the 1950s, and the windows
Rosenkrantz Gate 8, 0159 Hanshaugen and run by one of offer fantastic views of the
Tel 23 21 42 10 Norway’s top chefs, Smalhans harbor. In addition, there is
Bright and airy, this is one of offers memorable multi-course another restaurant downstairs
Oslo’s top lunch spots. It serves menus at frugal prices. with a bistro-oriented menu,
big portions of classics such as and a hip nightclub upstairs.
meatballs and reindeer burgers. CENTRAL OSLO WEST:
D/S Louise 
CENTRAL OSLO EAST: Scandinavian Map C3 TRONDHEIM:
Brasserie France  Stranden 3, 0250 Palmehaven 
French Map D3 Tel 22 83 00 60 Brunch
Øvre Slottsgate 16, 0157 Located over a number of floors, Dronningens Gate 5, 7011
Tel 23 10 01 65 Closed Sun this place has great views of the Tel 73 80 08 00 Closed Sun lunch
Enjoy a fine selection of classic harbor. It serves terrific food – A large dining room with a
French cuisine prepared by top the fish soup is an Oslo legend. fantastic all-you-can-eat buffet
chefs at this unpretentious and for breakfast and lunch that
charming spot. Reserve ahead. always features a wide range
of of fish and meat dishes.
CENTRAL OSLO EAST: Rest of Norway
Olympen  TRONDHEIM: To Rom og
Bistro Map E3 BERGEN: To Kokker  Kjøkken 
Grønlandsleiret 15, 0190 Scandinavian Scandinavian
Tel 24 10 19 99 Enhjørningsgården 29, 5003 Carl Johans Gate 5, 7010
Olympen’s amazing selection Tel 55 30 69 55 Tel 73 56 89 00
of beer and food is a cut above The best spot in town for Enjoy regional specialties ranging
ordinary pub grub. If ordered a steaming pots of mussels from Frøya salmon to reindeer
day in advance, they even do a and much more. A pub and tartar with lingonberry jam. They
whole suckling pig. restaurant rolled into one. also do Norwegian cheese plates.

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SC ANDINA VIA  635

DENMARK


Denmark is a peaceful and pleasant place. Its landscape is largely green, flat,
and rural – with a host of half-timbered villages reminiscent of a Hans Christian
Andersen fairy tale. It is an easy country to visit – not only do the majority of
Danes speak English, but they are friendly and extremely hospitable. Above all,
the pace of life is not as frenetic as in some European mainland countries.
Denmark consists of no fewer than Constant struggles for control of the North
405 islands and the Jutland peninsula, Sea with England and western Europe,
which extends north from Germany. for the Skagerrak – the straits between
Located as it is between Scandinavia Denmark and Norway – with Norway
proper and mainland Europe, Denmark and Sweden, and for the Baltic Sea with
not surprisingly shares characteristics Germany, Poland, and Russia, ensued.
with both. It has the least dramatic But thanks to their fast ships and fearless
countryside of the Scandinavian countries, warriors, by 1033 the Danes controlled
yet there are also a number of important much of England and Normandy, as well
Viking sites dotted throughout the land. as most trading routes in the Baltic.
Zealand, the largest island, is the focal The next three hundred years were
point for Denmark’s 5.5 million inhabitants, characterized by Denmark’s attempts to
a quarter of whom live in Copenhagen. maintain its power in the Baltic with the
Funen and Bornholm are much more help of the German Hanseatic League.
tranquil islands, popular for holiday retreats. During the reign of Valdemar IV (1340–
The Jutland peninsula has the most varied 1375), Sweden, Norway, Iceland, Greenland,
scenery, with marshland and desolate and the Faroe Isles came under Danish rule.
moors alternating with agricultural land. Valdemar’s daughter Margrethe presided
over this first Scandinavian federation,
History known as the Kalmar Union.
Although nomadic hunters inhabited The next period of Danish prosperity
Jutland some 25,000 years ago, the first occurred in the 16th century, when
mention of the Danes as a distinct people Denmark profited from the Sound dues,
is in the chronicles of Bishop Gregor of a levy charged to ships traversing the
Tours from 590. Their strategic position Øresund, the narrow channel between
in the north made them a central power Denmark and Sweden. Christian IV
in the Viking expansion that followed. (reigned 1588–1648), the “builder king,”



















Evening illuminations in Tivoli Gardens, Copenhagen
Aerial view of Copenhagen, with the Rådhus in the background



634-637_EW_Europe.indd 635 14/07/16 10:19 am

636  SC ANDINA VIA

instigated a huge program of construction was occupied by the Nazis, a move that
that provided Denmark with a number heralded the development of a huge
of architectural masterpieces, such as resistance movement. Social reforms
the Rosenborg Slot in Copenhagen continued after the war, and in the
(see p643). 1960s, laws were passed allowing
By the 18th century, Denmark abortion on demand and the
had discovered lucrative trading abolition of all forms of
opportunities in the Far East, censorship. In 1972,
and consolidated its position Denmark became the first
in the Baltic. However, an Scandinavian country to join
alliance with the French in the the European Community,
Napoleonic Wars (1803–15) and has developed a
led to the bombardment of reputation for addressing
Copenhagen by Britain’s Admiral environmental issues and
Nelson, and King Frederik VI was supporting the economies
forced to hand over Norway to Christian IV of Denmark of developing nations. Langesund,
Larvik
Sweden in 1814. (1588–1648) Now Danish citizens have a
The remainder of the 19th century high standard of living and Bergen, Skagen Gothenburg,
witnessed the rise of the social democrats state-funded education and health Kristiansand, Hirtshals Oslo
Stavanger,
and the trade unions. The year 1901 systems, although this has been achieved Torshavn Hjørring

saw the beginnings of parliamentary through high tax bills. Nevertheless, NORTH SEA E39 Frederikshavn
democracy and a number of social Denmark is one of the cheaper Brønderslev E45
reforms, including income tax on a Scandinavian countries. Læsø
sliding scale and free schooling. 11 Aalborg
Denmark was neutral during both world Language and Culture Thisted
wars, but during World War II the country A North Germanic language, Danish is Mors 29 Kattegat
similar to Norwegian and Swedish, but Nykøbing Hadsund
KEY DATES IN DANISH HISTORY there are some significant differences Lemvig Skive Hobro Anholt
AD 590 First written account of the Danes in the in word meaning (“frokost” for example, 26 E45
Gudenå
chronicle of Bishop Gregor of Tours means “lunch” in Danish, but “breakfast” 28 16 Viborg Randers 16
960 Denmark becomes officially Christian with the in Norwegian) and pronunciation. Sword Holstebro Grenå Varberg
baptism of King Harald “Bluetooth” DENMARK
English and German are widely spoken,
1033 Danes control much of England and Normandy so visitors should have few problems in Ringkøbing Silkeborg
and dominate trade in the Baltic Skjern Herning 15 Århus SW EDEN
1282 Erik V forced to grant nobles a charter limiting making themselves understood. Skjern Å Skanderborg Helsingør Helsingborg
his powers – first Danish constitution For such a small country, Denmark Brande Samsø Sejerø Frederiksværk
1397 Queen Margrethe I unites Scandinavia under has produced a number of world- 11 Ømme Å E45 Horsens Tranebjerg Nykøbing Frederiksborg
Slot
the Danish throne in the Kalmar Union famous writers and philosophers, Billund Endelave Frederikssund
1814 Norway transferred from the Danish to the including Hans Christian Andersen 30 Legoland Vejle Fredericia Kalundborg 23 Holbæk 6 COPENHAGEN
(København)
Swedish crown (see p645) and the 19th-century E20 Kolding Bogense Zealand
1849 Under Frederik VII, Denmark becomes a Esbjerg Middelfart (Sjaelland) Roskilde Malmo
constitutional monarchy philosopher Søren Kierkegaard, who Fanø E45 E20 Odense Slagelse E20 Ringsted Køge
Ribe
1890s Social reforms lay the foundations of the is claimed to have laid the foundations Harwich 47 Funen
present welfare state of modern existentialism. However, it is Rømø Haderslev Nyborg Korsør 22 E47
Agersø
1914–18 Denmark neutral in World War I best known for its 20th-century design 11 25 Åbenrå Fåborg 44 Svendborg Omø Næstved
1940–45 Despite declaring its neutrality, Denmark and craftsmanship, which have given Tønder Vordingborg
invaded and occupied by the Nazis the country an international reputation. Sønderborg Rudkøbing Femø Stege
1945 Becomes a charter member of the UN The works of companies such as Nakskov Møn
1972 Denmark joins the EC (now the EU) Georg Jensen silversmiths and Royal GERMANY Langeland Maribo E47 Falster
Nykøbing
2000 Danes reject euro as their currency Copenhagen porcelain, and the furniture Rødby Lolland
2002 EU presidency held by Denmark of architect Arne Jacobsen, enjoy a Hamburg Kiel Gedser
2012 Same-sex marriage legalised
worldwide reputation. Rostock


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DENM ARK  637

Exploring Denmark

Copenhagen is Denmark’s main attraction, a small
yet lively capital with a considerable number of
sights concentrated in the center. Outside the capital,
the pace of life is slow, and the flat countryside is
punctuated by half-timbered villages and the
occasional manor house. Roads are of a high standard,
and the trains and buses extremely punctual and
efficient. Denmark’s relative lack of hills makes it an
excellent place for cycling.
Sights at a Glance
1 Copenhagen pp638–43
2 Helsingør
3 Frederiksborg Slot Tranquil park in Odense, the principal town of
4 Roskilde the fertile island of Funen
5 Odense Langesund,
Larvik
6 Århus KEY
7 Aalborg Skagen Highway
8 Legoland Bergen, Gothenburg, Major road
Oslo
Kristiansand,
Stavanger, Hirtshals
Torshavn Railroad
Hjørring
Frederikshavn International border
NORTH SEA E39 E45
Brønderslev
Læsø
11 Aalborg
Thisted
Mors 29
Kattegat
Nykøbing 0 km 40
Hadsund 0 miles 40
Hobro Anholt
Lemvig Skive
26 E45
16 Gudenå Randers
28
Viborg 16
Sword Holstebro Grenå Varberg
DENMARK
Ringkøbing Silkeborg
Herning 15 Århus
Skjern S W E D E N
Skjern Å Skanderborg Helsingør
Samsø Frederiksværk Helsingborg
Brande Sejerø
E45 Horsens Nykøbing Frederiksborg
11 Tranebjerg Slot
Ømme Å
Billund Frederikssund
30 Legoland Vejle Endelave Kalundborg Holbæk 6 COPENHAGEN
Fredericia 23 (København)
E20 Bogense Zealand
Kolding
Esbjerg Middelfart (Sjaelland) Roskilde Malmo
Fanø E20 E20
Ribe E45 Odense Slagelse Ringsted Køge
Harwich 47
Haderslev Funen Nyborg Korsør 22
Rømø E47
25 Agersø Næstved
Fåborg 44 Omø
11
Åbenrå Svendborg
Tønder
Femø Vordingborg
Sønderborg Rudkøbing Stege
Nakskov Møn
Langeland Maribo E47 Falster
GERMANY Rødby Nykøbing
Lolland
Gedser
Hamburg Kiel
Rostock
For hotels and restaurants see p648 and p649 For keys to symbols see back flap
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638  SC ANDINA VIA


1 Copenhagen

Copenhagen is Denmark’s largest city, with a population of around
1.2 million. Founded in 1167 by Bishop Absalon, who built a fortress on the
island of Slotsholmen, the town grew quickly, prospering from trade in
the Baltic. In 1461, it was declared the capital of Denmark. During the INDIAKA
INDIAKAJ J
Ø S T B A N E G A D E
reign of Christian IV (1588–1648), the city was endowed with many
fine Renaissance buildings, some of which still stand today, including Ø S T B A N E G A D E LANGELINIEBRO
F. BERNADOTTES ALLÉ
the splendid Rosenborg Slot and Børsen. As a change from sightseeing,
LANGELINIEBRO
visitors can head for the lively, cosmopolitan shopping area F. BERNADOTTES ALLÉ
of Strøget, Europe’s longest pedestrian street, or Østerport FORBINDELSESVEJ
Østerport
simply relax in one of the many restaurants and LANGELINIE LANGELINIE
S T O C K H O L M S G A D E
cafés of bustling Nyhavn, with its charming,
FORBINDELSESVEJ
OSLO
OSLO
gabled townhouses. S T O C K H O L M S G A D E PLADS
PLADS
ØSTRE
ØSTRE
ANLÆG
ANLÆG
Oslo
Oslo
SØLV-
SØLV- ELSDYRSGADE GRØNNINGEN
ØSTER VOLDGADE
ELSDYRSGADE
TORVET
TORVET RIGENSGADE ESPLANADEN
RIGENSGADE
GRØNNINGEN
ØSTER FARIMAGSGADE
ESPLANADEN
ØSTER FARIMAGSGADE ØSTER VOLDGADE GERNERSGAD
GERNERSGADE E
AMALIEGADE
BOTANISK
BOTANISK
S TORE KONGENSGADE
FREDERICIAGADE
HAVE SØLVGAD FREDERICIAGADE AMALIEGADE
HAVE
SØLVGADE E
BORGERGADE
ROSENBORG
KRONPRINSESSEGADE
ROSENBORG
HAVE
HAVE
Cannon in the grounds of the city’s 16th-century (KONGENS BORGERGADE FREDERICIAGADE
(KONGENS
FREDERICIAGADE
fortress, Kastellet G O T H E R S G A D E HAVE) KRONPRINSESSEGADE S TORE KONGENSGADE
HAVE)
BREDGADE
G O T H E R S G A D E
Sights at a Glance ADELGADE ADELGADE BREDGADE
TOLDBODGADE
Nørreport
Nørreport Å B E N R
Å B E N R Å Å
SUH MSGADE M ÆRKET
1 Tivoli Gardens SUH MSGADE G O T H E R S G A D E TOLDBODGADE
SANKT ANNÆ
2 Ny Carlsberg Glyptotek KULTORVET L A N D E E M ÆRKET SANKT ANNÆ
NØRRE VOLDGADE
KULTORVET
PLADS
PLADS
G O T H E R S G A D E
KVÆSTHUSBROEN
3 Rådhuset FIOLSTRÆDE L A N D V O G NMA G E R G A D E
KRYSTALGADE
4 National Museum KRYSTALGADE PILESTRÆDE KVÆSTHUSBROEN
ST'KANNIKESTRÆDE
KONGENS
FIOLSTRÆDE
5 Christiansborg Palace NØRRE VOLDGADE KONGENS NYHAVN
NYTORV
NYTORV
PILESTRÆDE
V O G NMA G E R G A D E
SKINDERGADE
6 Børsen ST'KANNIKESTRÆDE KØ BMAGERGADE Kongens Nytorv NYHAVN
NYHAVN
ØSTERGADE
SKT. PEDERS STRÆDE
7 Strøget NØRREGADE SKINDERGADE N. HEMM G. ØSTERGADE Kongens Nytorv NYHAVN
KØ BMAGERGADE
8 Nyhavn SKT. PEDERS STRÆDE AMAGERTORV HERLUF TROLLES GADE
N. HEMM G.
AMAGERTORV
STUDI E S TRÆDE
NØRREGADE
FREDERIKSBERGGADE NYGADE VIMMELSKAFTET
HOLBERGSGADE
FREDERIKSBERGGADE NYGADE VIMMELSKAFTET
9 Amalienborg STUDI E S TRÆDE BREMERHO L M HOLMENSKANAL TORDENSKJOLDSGADE HOLBERGSGADE
HERLUF TROLLES GADE
LÆDERSTRÆDE
0 Little Mermaid LÆDERSTRÆDE HØJBRO
HØJBRO
VESTERGADE
HAVNEGADE
PLADS
PLADS
I nd erha v ne n
HOLMENSKANAL
q Danish Jewish Museum VESTERGADE CHRISTIANS- HAVNEGADE
NYBROGADE
BREMERHO L M
VINDEBROGADE
VINDEBROGADE
TORDENSKJOLDSGADE
CHRISTIANS-
HOLMENS
BORG
BORG
w Statens Museum for Kunst RÅDHUSSTRÆDE NYBROGADE SLOTSPLADS HOLMENS I nd erha v ne n
SLOTSPLADS
e Rosenborg Slot KANAL NIELS JUELS
K NABROS TRÆDE
K NABROS TRÆDE
r Christiania SL OTSHOLMS- BØRSGADE
RÅDHUSSTRÆDE
GADE
GADE
VESTERBROGADE
TØJHUSGADE
VESTERBROGADE STORMGADE TØJHUSGADE GADE Knippelsbro
STORMGADE
KANAL NIELS JUELS
BØRSGADE
GADE
SL OTSHOLMS-
Knippelsbro
Getting Around V E S T E R V O L D G A D E FREDERIKS
All the city’s attractions are in H. C. ANDERSENS BOU FREDERIKS HOLMS KANAL
CHRISTIANS BRYGGE
CHRISTIANS BRYGGE
a small area, within walking TIVOLI NY KONGENSGADE
V E S T E R V O L D G A D E
TIVOLI
GARDENS
distance of each other. GARDENS
TIETGENSGADE
Underground trains (S-trains) NY KONGENSGADE HOLMS KANAL
Central
Central
serve some of the main Station TIETGENSGADE
Station
sights, while there are BERNSTORF FSGADE NIELS BROCKSGADE PUGGAARDSGADE
H. C. ANDERSENS BOULEVARD
also numerous buses. NIELS BROCKSGADE LEVARD
The main hub of the S-train Langebro
PUGGAARDSGADE
KALVEBOD BRYGGE
Langebro
HAMBROSGAD
BERNSTORF FSGADE
network is København H, also HAMBROSGADE E
known as Central Station. The M I T C H E L L S G A D E
Sy d h a v n en
Sy d h a v n en
city’s metro opened in 2002, and KALVEBOD BRYGGE
M I T C H E L L S G A D E
now has two lines running from
Vanløse to the airport.
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INDIAKA
INDIAKAJ J
Ø S T B A N E G A D E LANGELINIEBRO Locator Map The Nimb building, with its domes and
Ø S T B A N E G A D E
minarets, at Tivoli Gardens
F. BERNADOTTES ALLÉ
LANGELINIEBRO
Østerport F. BERNADOTTES ALLÉ FORBINDELSESVEJ LANGELINIE LANGELINIE 1 Tivoli Gardens
Østerport
Vesterbrogade 3. Tel 33 15 10 01.
£ København H. @ 2A, 5A, 66, 250S.
S T O C K H O L M S G A D E OSLO Open Apr–mid-Sep, last three weeks
S T O C K H O L M S G A D E
FORBINDELSESVEJ
OSLO
in Oct (Halloween), & mid-Nov–Jan 3:
PLADS
PLADS
daily. ∑ tivoli.dk
ØSTRE
ØSTRE
ANLÆG
ANLÆG
Oslo
Oslo One of Copenhagen’s most
famous tourist attractions,
SØLV-
SØLV-
ØSTER VOLDGADE
ELSDYRSGADE
ELSDYRSGADE
TORVET
TORVET RIGENSGADE ESPLANADEN the Tivoli Gardens opened
RIGENSGADE
GRØNNINGEN
GRØNNINGEN
in 1843. This highly popular
ØSTER FARIMAGSGADE ØSTER VOLDGADE GERNERSGAD entertainment park combines
ØSTER FARIMAGSGADE
ESPLANADEN
GERNERSGADE E
all the fun of fairground rides
AMALIEGADE
with fountains and fireworks,
BOTANISK
BOTANISK
S TORE KONGENSGADE
FREDERICIAGADE
HAVE
HAVE SØLVGAD FREDERICIAGADE AMALIEGADE concerts and ballets, top-quality
SØLVGADE E
BORGERGADE
KRONPRINSESSEGADE
ROSENBORG restaurants and fast-food
ROSENBORG
HAVE BORGERGADE
HAVE
(KONGENS FREDERICIAGADE outlets. Based on the
(KONGENS
FREDERICIAGADE
HAVE) KRONPRINSESSEGADE S TORE KONGENSGADE 18th-century ornamental
HAVE)
BREDGADE
gardens popular in Europe
G O T H E R S G A D E
G O T H E R S G A D E
ADELGADE
Chinese-style pagodas and
TOLDBODGADE
Nørreport Å B E N R G O T H E R S G A D E ADELGADE BREDGADE SANKT ANNÆ TOLDBODGADE at the time, Tivoli features
Nørreport
Moorish pavilions, as well as
SUH MSGADE M ÆRKET
Å B E N R Å Å
L A N D E E M ÆRKET
modern additions, such as
SANKT ANNÆ
NØRRE VOLDGADE FIOLSTRÆDE KRYSTALGADE L A N D KØ BMAGERGADE KONGENS NYHAVN KVÆSTHUSBROEN 0 meters 300 300 the Hanging Gardens.
KULTORVET
NØRRE VOLDGADE
KULTORVET
PLADS
PLADS
G O T H E R S G A D E
SUH MSGADE
KVÆSTHUSBROEN
Among the many fairground
KRYSTALGADE
0 yards
ST'KANNIKESTRÆDE
ST'KANNIKESTRÆDE
rides are a traditional roller
KONGENS
FIOLSTRÆDE
NYTORV
NYTORV
PILESTRÆDE
PILESTRÆDE
V O G NMA G E R G A D E
V O G NMA G E R G A D E
coaster, a ferris wheel, a “freefall”
SKINDERGADE
NYHAVN
ØSTERGADE
SKT. PEDERS STRÆDE NØRREGADE SKINDERGADE N. HEMM G. ØSTERGADE Kongens Nytorv HERLUF TROLLES GADE Key tower, and the 80 m (262 ft)
SKT. PEDERS STRÆDE
NYHAVN
Kongens Nytorv NYHAVN
Star Flyer, which provides views
KØ BMAGERGADE
AMAGERTORV
AMAGERTORV
N. HEMM G.
over Copenhagen. There are
STUDI E S TRÆDE
STUDI E S TRÆDE HØJBRO BREMERHO L M HOLMENSKANAL TORDENSKJOLDSGADE HOLBERGSGADE Sight / Place of interest also amusement arcades,
NØRREGADE
HOLBERGSGADE
FREDERIKSBERGGADE NYGADE VIMMELSKAFTET
FREDERIKSBERGGADE NYGADE VIMMELSKAFTET
HERLUF TROLLES GADE
LÆDERSTRÆDE
HØJBRO
VESTERGADE
VESTERGADE RÅDHUSSTRÆDE LÆDERSTRÆDE PLADS CHRISTIANS- HOLMENS HAVNEGADE Pedestrian street shooting galleries, and
HAVNEGADE
PLADS
I nd erha v ne n
HOLMENSKANAL
I nd erha v ne n
NYBROGADE
BREMERHO L M
children’s rides.
NYBROGADE
VINDEBROGADE
VINDEBROGADE
TORDENSKJOLDSGADE
CHRISTIANS-
HOLMENS
BORG
BORG
The gardens are at their most
SLOTSPLADS
SLOTSPLADS
enthralling after dusk, when
K NABROS TRÆDE
K NABROS TRÆDE
thousands of tiny lights illuminate
RÅDHUSSTRÆDE
GADE
GADE
VESTERBROGADE V E S T E R V O L D G A D E FREDERIKS TØJHUSGADE GADE Knippelsbro the park. At night, open-air
TØJHUSGADE
VESTERBROGADE
STORMGADE
STORMGADE
KANAL NIELS JUELS
KANAL NIELS JUELS
BØRSGADE
GADE
BØRSGADE
SL OTSHOLMS-
SL OTSHOLMS-
theaters host all forms of
Knippelsbro
entertainment, from big bands
CHRISTIANS BRYGGE
CHRISTIANS BRYGGE
TIVOLI FREDERIKS HOLMS KANAL to Friday night rock concerts,
TIVOLI
V E S T E R V O L D G A D E
GARDENS NY KONGENSGADE and during the summer season,
GARDENS
performances of the unique
TIETGENSGADE
H. C. ANDERSENS BOU
NIELS BROCKSGADE PUGGAARDSGADE between late November and
Central TIETGENSGADE NY KONGENSGADE HOLMS KANAL Danish pantomime.
Central
Station
Station BERNSTORF FSGADE A good time to visit Tivoli is
H. C. ANDERSENS BOULEVARD
NIELS BROCKSGADE LEVARD
Christmas, when the gardens
PUGGAARDSGADE
KALVEBOD BRYGGE traditional Danish seasonal fare,
Langebro
KALVEBOD BRYGGE
HAMBROSGADE E Langebro are transformed into a bustling
HAMBROSGAD
BERNSTORF FSGADE
Christmas fair. You can sample
Sy d h a v n en
Sy d h a v n en
buy many specialty Christmas
M I T C H E L L S G A D E
M I T C H E L L S G A D E
Copenhagen’s Nyhavn canal, lined with brightly colored houses and
generally get acquainted with
busy sidewalk cafés gifts, try the toboggan run, and
Danish Christmas traditions.
For keys to symbols see back flap
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The richly decorated Neoclassical facade of Ny Carlsberg Glyptotek art gallery
2 Ny Carlsberg 300-step staircase to the top around AD 1000. There is also
Glyptotek of the bell tower for a view of a children’s museum and a
the city. On the way, check host of educational activities,
Dantes Plads 7. Tel 33 41 81 41.
£ København H. @ 1A, 2A. Open out the First World Clock, a all housed in the restored
Tue–Sun. Closed Jan 1, Jun 5, Dec 24 super-accurate timepiece 18th-century royal residence.
& 25. & except Tue. 7 partial. = - with a 570,000-year calendar Close by, and part of the
0 ∑ glyptoteket.com designed by Jens Olsen. It museum, is a Danish home with
took 27 years to design, and authentic interiors from the
Copenhagen’s most elegant art was completed in 1955. 1890s, complete with decorated
gallery was opened in 1897 by panels and elaborately carved
Carl Jacobsen, son of the founder furniture (view by guided tour
of the Carlsberg Brewery, to at 2pm on Saturday in summer
give more people the chance only; book in main museum).
to see classical art. Housed
in a magnificent Neoclassical 5 Christiansborg
building, the Glyptotek is best-
known for its exquisite antiquities, Palace
in particular its collections of Slotsholmen. Tel 33 92 64 92.
Etruscan and Roman art. @ 1A, 2A, 26. Open May–Sep: daily;
The main building’s collections Oct–Apr: Tue–Sun. & 8 - =
are completed with Egyptian, ∑ royalpalaces.dk Teatermuseet:
Greek, Roman, and French Christiansborg Ridebane 18. Tel 33
sculpture and works from the 11 51 76. Open Tue–Thu, Sat & Sun.
“Golden Age” of Danish painting The modern, central atrium of Denmark’s Closed Jan 1, Dec 24, 25 & 31. &
(1800–1850). A modern wing, National Museum Thorvaldsen’s Museum: Bertil
designed by acclaimed Danish Thorvaldsens Plads 2. Tel 33 32
architect Henning Larsen, 4 National Museum 15 32. Open Tue–Sun. & - =
contains Impressionist paintings Ny Vestergade 10. Tel 33 13 44 11.
by Monet, Sisley, Pissarro, £ København H. @ 1A, 2A, 14, 26. Situated on the island of
Gauguin, and works by David Open 10am–5pm Tue–Sun. Closed Slotsholmen, the Christiansborg
and Bonnard. The museum also Dec 24, 25 & 31. 7 9 0 Palace has been the seat of the
has changing exhibitions. ∑ natmus.dk Danish Parliament since 1918,
and also houses the Royal
3 Rådhuset Like so many of Denmark’s Reception Rooms, the Queen’s
Library, the Supreme Court,
museums, the National Museum
Rådhuspladsen. Tel 33 66 33 66. £ contains beautifully presented and the Prime Minister’s Office.
København H. @ 2A, 5A, 6A, 14, 26 & exhibits. The extensive Built on the site of a fortress
many others. Closed Sun, public hols. ethnographic and antiquities constructed in 1167 by
8 in English with & 1pm Mon–Fri, collections detail Danish history Copenhagen’s founder, Bishop
10am Sat. 7 = from prehistoric to modern Absalon, the palace has twice
times, and include some burnt down and been rebuilt,
At the edge of the Indre By (city fascinating exhibits of Viking life. then altered and extended.
center), in the middle of a wide Many of the items on display Much of this work was carried
open square, is the Baroque- come from the Danish isles, out during the 18th century
style Rådhuset or City Hall, built such as items of jewelry, bones, under Christian VI, whose
in the early 1900s. A statue of and even several bodies found elaborate visions were realized
Copenhagen’s 11th-century preserved in peat bogs, as well both in the architecture and in
founder, Bishop Absalon, sits as imposing rune stones with the lavish interiors. The current
above the entrance. Climb the inscriptions dating from palace dates mostly from the
For hotels and restaurants see p648 and p649


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C OPENHA GEN  641


early 20th century, and it is
possible to visit the Royal
Reception Rooms, the Harness
Room, the Stables and Coach
House, and some ruins from the
original fortress.
Above the riding stables is
the Royal Court Theater, built
by Christian VI in 1767. Now
a museum, much of it has
been restored to its original
18th-century appearance.
Exhibits illustrate the history
of Danish theater up to the Børsen, Copenhagen’s beautiful old stock exchange
present day. The auditorium,
with its plush, red furnishings 6 Børsen the center of a large traffic-free
and small, gold side boxes, Børsgade. @ 2A, 66. Closed to public. zone in the heart of the city,
houses a wealth of memorabilia Strøget consists of five streets –
– including costumes, old Built in 1619–40 by King Frederiksberggade, Nygade,
theater programs, wigs, and Christian IV, Denmark’s old stock Vimmelskaftet, Amagertorv,
even old make-up boxes and a exchange is an architectural and Østergade. The area is
reconstructed dressing room. masterpiece. The building home to several exclusive
The whole theater is dominated, combines tiny windows, steep stores, including top inter-
however, by the grand royal roofs, and decorative gables, national designers Louis Vuitton
box, built for King Frederik VII and is topped by a spire and Gucci. Other stores sell
in 1852. Situated at the back of representing four intertwined the best in Danish porcelain,
the auditorium, it seems almost dragon’s tails. Originally a modern design, glass, and
to upstage the stage itself. marketplace, it became a furnishings – all areas in
Unusually, the king’s wife, the commodities and stock which Denmark has a
former ballet dancer Louise exchange in the 19th century. world-class reputation.
Rasmussen, had a private box Today, the building is used as The best selection can
to the right of the royal box, offices, since the modern stock be found in the Royal
where she sat if she was alone. exchange has long since Copenhagen shopping mall,
Along the north side of the moved to Strøget. It is not facing Amagertorv, which
palace, the Thorvaldsen’s open to the public. includes Royal Copenhagen,
Museum houses the work of Georg Jensen, and Illums
the country’s most celebrated Bolighus. There are also many
sculptor, Bertel Thorvaldsen 7 Strøget bustling cafés and restaurants,
(1770–1844). After completing Frederiksberggade to Østergade. street performers, and
his education in Denmark, £ København H, Nørreport. musicians, making it a lively
Thorvaldsen lived for nearly 40 @ 1A, 2A, 26. place for walking or for relaxing
years in Rome, where he gained a with a coffee. The area is
worldwide reputation. As well as Running between Rådhus- extremely popular with locals
his own impressive Neoclassical pladsen (City Hall Square) and and visitors, particularly on a
sculptures, the museum houses Kongens Nytorv (King’s New Saturday, but it is still possible
his collection of antiquities and Square), Strøget (pronounced to enjoy the atmosphere and
19th-century Danish art. There is “Stroll”) is Europe’s longest admire the many surviving
also a detailed account of his life. pedestrian street. Located at 18th-century buildings.















The impressive Christiansborg Palace, once a seat of royalty and now home to the Danish Parliament




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8 Nyhavn
Kongens Nytorv. @ 1A, 26, 3505. 4
991, 992.
A narrow canal flanked by a wide
promenade, Nyhavn (New
Harbor) was originally built 300
years ago to attract trade. It leads
up to Kongens Nytorv (King’s
New Square). For much of its
history, the district was far from
inviting, being mainly frequented
by sailors, but after the 1970s, the
area was trans formed. The
harbor is lined either side with
brightly painted town houses,
a number of which date from
the 18th century. Author Hans Nyhavn, Copenhagen’s picturesque and popular harborside promenade
Christian Andersen lived in three
of them (numbers 18, 20, and Rococo buildings arranged Peter’s in Rome. Its construction
67). Shops, restaurants, and bars symmetrically around a large was begun in 1749 with
have replaced all but one of cobbled square with an expensive Norwegian marble,
the tattoo parlors that used to imposing equestrian statue but was not completed until
be here. of Frederik V in the middle. 150 years later (with less
The attractive buildings, as Changing of the guard takes expensive Danish limestone)
well as the dozens of old place every day at noon outside owing to the huge costs
wooden sailing ships moored the palace of the present queen, incurred. Inside, the church is
on the water, make Nyhavn a Margrethe II. The buildings have decorated with many frescoes
lively and picturesque place to housed the Danish royal family and statues.
spend an hour or two enjoying since 1874. Only one of them,
a meal or a beer, at least in the Christian VIII’s Palace, is currently 0 Little Mermaid
summer months. It is also a open to the public. It houses
good starting point for seeing the Amalienborg museum – the Langelinie. £ Østerport. @ 1A, 26,
the city, as some boat tours of museum of the Danish then a short walk. 4 901, 902.
the canals leave from here. monarchy. It is home to part of
the Royal Collection, the bulk of The subject of many Danish
which is housed at Rosenborg postcards, the Little Mermaid
Slot, and some of the official (Den Lille Havfrue) has become
and private rooms are open to the emblem of Copenhagen
the public. The highlights are and is much visited by tourists.
the study of King Christian IX Sitting on a stone by the
(1818–1906) and the drawing promenade at Langelinie, and
room of his wife, Queen looking out over the Øresund,
Louise, which are filled she is difficult to spot from the
with family presents, road and smaller than her
photographs, and pictures would have
the occasional you believe. Sculpted
Fabergé treasure. by Edvard Erichsen
There are two and first unveiled in
attractive but contrasting 1913, this bronze
Changing of Queen Margrethe’s views from the statue was inspired
guard, Amalienborg square. On the by the Hans Christian
harborside is Andersen
9 Amalienborg Amaliehaven character, who
Amaliegade. Tel 33 12 21 86. (Amalia’s Garden), left the sea after
£ Østerport. @ 1A, 26. 4 991, 992. dating from 1983 falling in love
Open May–Oct: daily; Nov–Apr: Tue– and with a fountain with a prince. The
Sun. Closed Dec 23–26 & 31. & for in its center; in the Copenhagen’s emblem, mermaid has
museum. 8 call in advance. 7 opposite direction the Little Mermaid suffered over the
Changing of the guard: noon daily. is Marmorkirken, a years at the hands
∑ royalpalaces.dk white marble church officially of mischievous pranksters, even
known as Frederikskirken, losing her head and an arm.
The Amalienborg (Amalia’s which has one of Europe’s Happily, she is currently in
Castle) consists of four identical largest domes, inspired by St. possession of all her “parts.”
For hotels and restaurants see p648 and p649


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q Dansk Jødisk
Museum
Proviantpassagen 6. Tel 33 11 22 18.
£ København H. @ 1A, 2A, 66. 4
991, 992. Open Tue–Sun. Closed Rosh
Hashanah, Yom Kippur, Jan 1, Dec 24,
25 & 31. & 8 ∑ jewmus.dk
The Danish Jewish Museum,
located on the Slotsholmen
museum island, was designed
by Daniel Libeskind, who was
also the architect for the Jewish
Museum in Berlin. Little remains
of the original 17th-century
Royal Boat House. Libeskind’s
ultra modern architecture leads
visitors down maze-like corridors
that form the Hebrew letters of
the word Mitzvah, meaning
“good deed”. Included here are
personal stories from the lives of
Jews in Denmark spanning 400
years, including those who were
smuggled over to Sweden from
Denmark during World War II.

w Statens Museum The enchanting Rosenborg Slot, set within magnificent parkland
for Kunst
e Rosenborg Slot
Sølvgade 48–50. Tel 33 74 84 94. includes examples from the
£ Nørreport, Østerport. @ 6A, Øster Voldgade 4A. Tel 33 15 32 86. famous Flora Danica dinner
26, 184, 185, 150S. Open Tue–Sun. £ Nørreport. @ 6A. Open May–Oct: service made for 100 guests,
Closed Jan 1, Dec 24, 25 & 31. & (for daily; Nov–Apr: Tue–Sun. Closed Jan created by the Royal
special exhibitions only). 7 - 1, Dec 22–26 & 31. & 8 - = Copenhagen Porcelain factory
∑ smk.dk ∑ royalpalaces.dk between 1790 and 1803. The
colorful Glass Cabinet houses
The extensive Statens Museum Originally built by Christian IV as nearly 1,000 examples of old
for Kunst (State Art Museum) a summer residence in 1606–7, Venetian glass as well as glass
holds Danish and European art the Rosenborg Slot was inspired from the Netherlands, Bohemia,
from the 14th century to the by the Renaissance architecture England, and most of the
present. Among its many of the Netherlands. The “builder German glassworks.
artworks are paintings by Titian, king” continued to add to it over
Rubens, Rembrandt, El Greco, the next 30 years until the castle r Christiania
Picasso, and Matisse. Danish looked much as it does today –
artists are particularly well a playful version of a fortress. Bådsmandsstræde 43. £
represented in the new modern The interiors are particularly well Christianshavn. @ 66. Open daily.
art wing. There is also a vast preserved and its sumptuous 8 for pre-booked groups only.
collection of prints and drawings. chambers, halls, and ballrooms ∑ christiania.org
are full of objects
including amber Originally set up in 1971 on
chandeliers, life- the site of a former military
size silver lions, barracks, this “free town” is an
tapestries, thrones, enclave of an alternative
portraits, and lifestyle: colorful, anarchic,
gilded chairs. and self-governing. However,
Two of the 24 since 2004, there has been
rooms open to no open selling of drugs
the public are due to government pressure.
stacked from Attractions include shops (one
floor to ceiling being the famous Christiania
with porcelain Bikes), a gallery, cafés, a
and glass. The restaurant, and a concert
Modern art wing of the Statens Museum for Kunst Porcelain Cabinet venue, as well as a lake.




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2 Helsingør
Zealand. * 46,500. g £ @
n Havnepladsen 3 (49 21 13 33).
∑ visitnorthsealand.com
Helsingør, or Elsinore, lies at the
narrowest point of the Øresund,
the waterway dividing Denmark
and Sweden. Its attractive
medieval quarter has many
well-preserved merchants’ and
ferrymen’s houses. On the
waterfront stands the Maritime The spires and turrets of the Kronborg Slot, Helsingør
Museum of Denmark.
The town is dominated by by an artificial lake. Created as a of Harald Bluetooth’s original
Kronborg Slot (Kronborg residence for Frederik II (1559– church. Begun by Bishop
Castle), which stands on a spit 88), the castle was rebuilt in the Absalon in 1170, the building is
of land overlooking the sea. Dutch Renaissance style by his now a mix of architectural styles.
Famous as the setting of Hamlet, son, Christian IV (1588–1648). The cathedral also functions as
the fortress actually dates from The vaulted black marble Denmark’s royal mausoleum –
the 1500s, much later than chapel, where monarchs were some 39 Danish kings and
Shakespeare’s character would once crowned, sits directly queens are buried here.
have lived. Highlights include below the Great Hall, with its Overlooking Roskilde Fjord is
the 62 m (210 ft) banqueting fine tapestries, paintings, and the Vikingeskibsmuseet. This
hall. A statue of the Viking chief reliefs. The castle also houses Viking ship museum contains
Holger Danske slumbers in the National History Museum. five reconstructed Viking ships,
the castle cellars – according first built around AD 1000,
to legend he will awaken to 4 Roskilde excavated from the bottom
defend Denmark if needed. of the fjord in 1962. In the
Zealand. * 49,000. £ @ waterside workshops, Viking
+ Kronborg Slot n Stændertorvet 1 (46 31 65 65). ship replicas are built using
Kronborg. Tel 49 21 30 78. @ 840, 842. ∑ visitroskilde.com authentic period tools and
Open Apr–Oct: daily; Nov–Mar: Tue– traditional techniques.
Sun. & 8 0 ∑ royalpalaces.dk The settlement of Roskilde first
came to prominence in AD 980, E Vikingeskibsmuseet
3 Frederiksborg when a Viking king, Harald Vindeboder 12. Tel 46 30 02 00.
Open daily. Closed Dec 24, 25 & 31.
Slot Bluetooth, built Zealand’s first & 8 in summer. 7 call in advance.
Christian church here. Once the
Hillerød, Zealand. Tel 48 26 04 39. £ to center of Danish Catholicism, - = ∑ vikingeskibsmuseet.dk
Hillerød, then bus 301, 302. Open the town declined after the
daily. & 7 - = ∑ dnm.dk Reformation. Today, it is a quiet 5 Odense
town, except when it hosts
One of Scandinavia’s most northern Europe’s largest annual Funen. * 173,000. £ @
magnificent royal castles, the music festival in the first n Rådhus, Vestergade (63 75 75 20).
Frederiksborg Slot is built across weekend of July. Roskilde ∑ visitodense.com
three small islands surrounded Domkirke stands on the site
Odense is Denmark’s third-
largest urban center. It lies at
the heart of an area dubbed the
“Garden of Denmark” for the
variety of fruits and vegetables
produced here. The town is
most famous as the birthplace
of Hans Christian Andersen.
Odense is easily explored on
foot. Looking like a storybook
village, the old town contains
some fine museums, including
three art museums, one of
which, Brandts, is dedicated
to photo graphy. Odense’s
showpiece is the Hans Christian
Andersen Museum, where the
View from the outer courtyard of Frederiksborg Slot storyteller’s life is detailed
For hotels and restaurants see p648 and p649


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DENM ARK  645


through drawings, photographs, 7 Aalborg
letters, and personal belongings. Jutland. * 110,000. k g £ @
A library contains his works in n Kjellerups Torv 5, Kedelhallen
more than 90 languages. The (99 31 75 00). ∑ visitaalborg.com
H.C. Andersens Barndomshjem
(H.C. Andersen’s Childhood The port of Aalborg spreads
Home) shows where the writer across both sides of the
lived with his parents in a room Limfjord, which slices through
measuring barely 2 m (6 ft) by the tip of the Jutland peninsula.
1.5 m (5 ft). Aalborg is the leading producer
of the spirit aquavit, the fiery
E Hans Christian Andersen Danish national drink.
Museum The well-preserved old town
Bangs Boder 20. Tel 65 51 46 01. Open has several sights of interest, Legoland® transportation – the colorful
late Jun–Aug: daily; Sep–late Jun: Tue– including the suitably dark and Lego® train and monorail
Sun. & 8 by prior arrangement atmospheric dungeons of the
only. ∑ museum.odense.dk town castle, the Aalborghus Slot 8 Legoland®
(1539). The Budolfi Domkirke, Billund, Jutland. Tel 75 33 13 33. k
a 16th-century Gothic cathedral, £ to Vejle, then bus. Open Apr–Oct:
houses a collection of portraits daily. & 7 - = ∑ legoland.dk
depicting Aalborg merchants
from the town’s prosperous past. The Legoland® Billund theme
Kunsten (Museum of Modern park celebrates the tiny plastic
Art Aalborg) houses a collection blocks that have become a
of Danish modern art, as well as household name worldwide.
works by foreign artists such as The park opened in 1968,
Max Ernst and Chagall. and more than 45 million
On the edge of Aalborg is the Lego® bricks were used in
Half-timbered buildings at Den Gamle By historical site of Lindholm Høje. its construction.
outdoor museum, Århus Set on a hilltop overlooking the Aimed primarily at 3–13 year
city, it contains more than 650 olds, Legoland® is divided into
6 Århus marked graves from the Iron different zones. As well as
Age and Viking Age (see p627). A Lego® sculptures of animals,
Jutland. * 260,000. k 44 km museum depicting the history buildings, and landscapes, there
(27 miles) NE. g £ @ n Pakhus of the site stands nearby. are many rides and stage shows.
13, Nordhavnsgade 4 (87 31 50 10).
∑ visitaarhus.com Highlights include Miniland, a
T Lindholm Høje collection of miniature Lego®
Denmark’s second city and Vendilavej, Nørresundby. Tel 99 31 74 towns that represent places
Jutland’s main urban center, 40. Open daily. Museum: Open Apr– around the world, and a driving
Århus has a thriving culture Oct: daily; Nov–Mar: Tue–Sun. Closed track where children can take a
scene, with a major art museum, Dec 24–Jan 1. & 7 8 - = safety test in a Lego® car.
ARoS, and an annual summer
arts festival, Aarhus Festuge.
Århus divides clearly into two Hans Christian Andersen
parts. The old town is a cluster of Denmark’s most internationally famous writer, Hans Christian
medieval streets with several fine Andersen (1805–75) was born in Odense, the son of a poor cobbler.
churches. Den Gamle By, the Andersen was admitted to the University of Copenhagen in 1832,
city’s open-air museum, consists and the following year made his debut as an author with his first
of 60 or so half-timbered houses novel. Several plays and other novels followed,
and a watermill, transported but he remains best known for his children’s
from locations all over Jutland fairy tales, published between 1835 and 1872.
and carefully reconstructed. Andersen used everyday language, thus
In the modern part of the breaking with the literary tradition of the time.
city, the controversial Rådhus Some of his tales, such as “The Little
(City Hall) was built by Arne Mermaid” (see p642), are deeply
Jakobsen and Erik Møller in pessimistic and unhappy.
1941. Its coating of pale A strong autobiographical
Norwegian marble still provokes element runs through these
differing opinions to this day. sadder tales; throughout
his life, Andersen saw
E Den Gamle By himself as an outsider and he
Viborgvej. Tel 86 12 31 88. Open daily. also suffered deeply in his Statue of Hans Christian
Closed Jan 1, Dec 24, 25 & 31. closest relationships. Andersen, Copenhagen
& - = ∑ dengamleby.dk




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646  SC ANDINA VIA

Practical & Travel Information Danish banks usually open
9:30am–4pm Monday to
Visitors are always treated with courtesy and hospitality in Wednesday and Friday, and
Denmark; the Danes are one of the most tolerant nations in 9:30am–6pm on Thursday. For
the world, and the Danish concept of hygge (coziness) makes the most favorable exchange
the country a very comfortable place to stay. Denmark’s travel rates, change money and
traveler’s checks at a bank.
facilities are plentiful, reliable, and easy to use. There is an Outside bank opening hours
extensive rail network and city public transportation services there are exchange booths at
function efficiently. The capital, Copenhagen, is a compact post offices, and most airports,
city, which makes getting around by public transport quite main train stations, and ferry
straightforward. Since most Danes speak fluent English, you terminals. Major credit and
should have no problems with communication. charge cards are accepted in
most places, and local currency
can be obtained with credit or
debit cards from cashpoint
Tourist Information valid passport to enter machines (ATMs).
General and location-specific Denmark. Citizens of the EU
information on all parts of may use a national identity card
Denmark can be obtained from in lieu of their passport. No visa Communications
the Danish Tourist Board, is required for visitors from the Denmark still has a very small
which has offices in many US, Canada, the UK, Ireland, number of public phone
countries, including the US and Australia, or New Zealand. booths, and phone cards can
the UK. Visitors to the capital be bought from all post offices
can obtain brochures, maps, and kiosks.
and other useful information at Safety and Emergencies Most post offices are now
the Copenhagen Visitor Centre. Denmark is a peaceful country located inside supermarkets,
and street crime is rare, although even in larger towns. They
travelers are advised to take out generally open from 10am to
Opening Hours
comprehensive travel insurance. 6pm Monday to Friday, and
Many tourist attractions close Danish tourist offices and health 10am to 1pm on Saturday,
on Mondays, and a few have offices have lists of doctors and although smaller branches may
seasonal opening hours; several local hospitals. For prescriptions have restricted opening times.
museums stay open late on (obtainable at a pharmacy Wi-Fi Internet is available in
Wednesdays. Stores are generally or apotek) or a doctor’s almost all hotels and cafés, and
open 10am–5:30pm Monday to consultation, you will have to on some trains.
Thursday, 10am–7pm on Friday, pay the full cost on the spot, but English-language newspapers
and 9am–4pm on Saturday; EU citizens can obtain a refund are usually available the day after
Sunday openings are becoming by taking their passport and publication at train stations and
more frequent, especially in European Health Insurance Card many of the larger newsagents.
Copenhagen. Office hours are (EHIC) to a local health office.
9am–4pm Monday to Friday.
Flying to Denmark
Banking and Currency
Visa Requirements The Danish unit of currency Most international flights arrive
at Copenhagen Airport,
Visitors who are not citizens of a is the krone (DKr), which is Kastrup, 8 km (5 miles) from
Scandinavian country require a divided into 100 øre. the city center. British Airways,
easyJet, Norwegian, and SAS
(Scandinavian Airline System)
The Climate of Denmark
COPENHAGEN operate direct flights from
The climate of Denmark is Britain. SAS also offers direct
the least extreme of the flights from New York; most
Scandinavian countries, but °C/ºF flights from North America,
the country’s close proximity 20/68 however, require a stopover.
to the sea means that the 12/54
weather can change very 9/48 11/52
6/43
quickly. The summer months 2/36 2/36 Traveling by Sea
-1/30
are generally sunny; 5 8 3 1 If you are considering traveling
temp eratures in July can top hrs hrs hrs hrs to Denmark by sea, note that
26° C (78° F). Winters are cold 45 70 60 55 there is no longer a ferry service
and rainy, although not severe, mm mm mm mm between southern England and
and there may be snow from month Apr Jul Oct Jan
December to March. Denmark. An alternative is to
take the ferry, run by DFDS
Seaways among others, from
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DENM ARK  647


Newcastle to Amsterdam, which The Copenhagen Cityringen is hotline. Most taxi drivers speak
is then roughly 5.5 hours from due to open in 2019. This rapid, English, but cabs are often
the Danish border by car. driverless metro system will expensive, especially at night
Ferries also link all the Danish form a circular line with 17 and all day at weekends.
islands and range in size from the stations around the city center. Cycling is an excellent way
car- and bus-carrying catamarans Traveling by Car to enjoy Denmark’s mostly flat
and ferries of Mols-Linien, landscape, since traffic is light
which travel between Zealand Car rental in Denmark is on the country roads and most
and Jutland, to tiny vessels expensive. To rent a vehicle towns have cycle tracks. Bikes can
serving small settlements off you must be at least 20 years be rented at most hotels, youth
the mainland and major islands. of age, and hold an inter- hostels, tourist offices, and bike
national driver’s license. stores, and at some train stations.
Driving in central Copen- In Copenhagen, Kobenhavns
Rail Travel
hagen is not advisable due to Cykelbørs is a reliable bike rental
Like the rest of the public the traffic and lack of parking. store. Contact the Dansk Cyklist
transportation system in The Danish authorities conduct Forbund (Danish Cycling
Denmark, the trains are clean random breath tests, and Association) for more information.
and reliable, and are by far the penalties for driving under
best way to get around. Danish the influence of alcohol are
State Railways (DSB) operates severe. The Forenede Danske Sightseeing in
Copenhagen
an efficient network that covers Motorejere (FDM) offers a
most parts of the country, with breakdown service to Automobile If you plan to do a lot of sight -
the exception of south Funen Association (AA) members. seeing in the capital, it is worth
and northeast Jutland. investing in a Copenhagen Card
In Copenhagen, a local train (valid for one, two, three, or five
service, the S-tog, provides Buses, Taxis, and Bicycles days). The card gives unlimited
transportation between the city Buses are cheaper than trains, use of public transportation in
center and the surrounding if not as comfortable. However, the metropolitan area (including
areas, and as far as Hillerød and they are useful for traveling to North Zealand), free or cheaper
Ishøj, while the underground remote areas not covered by the admission to many museums,
Metro service runs from the train network. Copen hagen’s as well as price reductions with
Vanløse suburb in the west to Movia Kundecenter (customer certain car rental companies and
the airport. services) has a bus information on ferry crossings to Sweden.
DIRECTORY
Tourist Offices Copenhagen Ø. Tel 70 26 Emergency Rail Travel
36 76. ∑ denmark. Numbers
Copenhagen Visitor embassy.gov.au Danish State
Centre Ambulance, Fire Railways
Vesterbrogade 4a, Canada and Police Tel 70 13 14 15.
Copenhagen V. Kristen Bernikows Gade 1, Tel 112.
Tel 70 22 24 42. Copenhagen K. Tel 33 48 ∑ dsb.dk
∑ visitcopenhagen.dk Air Travel
32 00.∑ canadainter S-tog Information
Danish Tourist Board national.gc.ca Copenhagen Airport, Tel 70 13 14 15.
∑ visitdenmark.com Kastrup
Ireland
Denmark Østbanegade 21, Tel 32 31 32 31. ∑ cph.dk Road Travel
Vesterbrogade 4a, SAS Dansk Cyklist
Copenhagen V. Copenhagen Ø. Tel 70 10 20 00. Forbund
Tel 70 22 24 42. Tel 35 47 32 00. ∑ flysas.com
∑ embassyofireland.dk Tel 33 32 31 21.
UK Ferry Services ∑ cyklistforbundet.dk
55 Sloane Street, UK
London SW1X 9SY. Kastelsvej 36–40, DFDS Seaways Forenede Danske
Tel 020-7259 5958. Copenhagen Ø. Tel 35 44 Tel 33 42 30 00. Motorejere (FDM)
US 52 00. ∑ gov.uk/govern ∑ dfdsseaways.com Tel 70 13 30 40.
655 Third Avenue, ment/world/denmark Mols-Linien Kobenhavns
Suite 1810, New York. Tel 70 10 14 18.
Tel 212-885 9700. US ∑ mols-linien.dk Cykelbørs
Dag Hammarskjölds Allè Gothersgade 157,
Embassies 24, Copenhagen Ø. Tel 33 Stena Line Copenhagen K.
Australia 41 71 00. ∑ denmark. Tel 96 20 02 00. Tel 33 14 07 17.
Dampførgevej 26, usembassy.gov ∑ stenaline.dk ∑ cykelboersen.dk





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648  DENM ARK

Where to Stay


Copenhagen DK Choice Price Guide
Prices are based on one night’s stay in
CENTRAL COPENHAGEN: high season for a standard double room,
Hotel d’Angleterre  inclusive of service charges and taxes.

under 1,000 DKr
DK Choice Luxury Map D4  1,000 to 1,500 DKr
Kongens Nytorv 34, 1050
CENTRAL COPENHAGEN: Tel 33 12 00 95  over 1,500 DKr
Danhostel  ∑ dangleterre.com
Budget Map C5 One of the most respected AALBORG: Hotel Chagall 
H.C. Andersens Blvd 50, 1553 hotels in Copenhagen, the Family
Tel 33 11 85 85 Angleterre has been in business Vesterbro 36–38, 9000
∑ danhostelcopenhagencity.dk for over 250 years and remains Tel 98 12 69 33
Do not be deceived by the top choice for visiting ∑ chagall.dk
Danhostel’s high-rise exterior: dignitaries. The rooms are large, Pleasant, centrally located hotel.
the interiors and sleek rooms classically decorated, and filled Rooms are bright and airy.
would put most mid-level with amenities. Located close
hotels to shame. Many of the to the Queen’s residence. AALBORG: Radisson Blu
rooms have superb views over Limfjord Hotel 
the city. Amenities include free Business
Internet, a pleasant TV lounge, CENTRAL COPENHAGEN: Ved Stranden 14–16, 9000
and laundry facilities. Ibsens Hotel  Tel 98 16 43 33
Boutique Map B3 ∑ radissonblu.com
Vendersgade 23, 1363 High standards and an excellent
CENTRAL COPENHAGEN: Tel 33 45 77 77 location facing the river and near
Andersen Hotel  ∑ arthurhotels.dk famous Jomfru Ane Gade street.
Boutique This family-friendly hotel
Helgolandsgade 12, 1653 comes with individually styled ÅRHUS: Hotel Faber 
Tel 33 31 43 44 rooms, ranging from modern Family
∑ andersen-hotel.dk Scandinavian to classical English. Eckersbergsgade 17, 8000
A design hotel with exceptional Tel 70 26 70 11
standards of service and CENTRAL COPENHAGEN: ∑ hotel-faber.dk
comfortable rooms. STAY Apartment Hotel  This modern hotel offers its
Boutique guests soundproofed rooms
CENTRAL COPENHAGEN: Islands Brygge 79a, 2300 with private kitchen facilities.
Generator Hostel  Tel 72 44 44 34
Budget Map C3 ∑ staycopenhagen.dk ODENSE: Cabinn Odense 
Adelgade 5–7, 1304 Fully equipped apartments, some Budget
Tel 78 77 54 00 with waterfront views. Free Wi-Fi Østre Stationsvej 7, 5000
∑ generatorhostels.com Internet access and cable TV. Tel 63 14 57 00
Stylish, spacious, and popular, ∑ cabinn.com
with doubles, triples, and dorms. Stay in compact rooms inspired
by ships’ cabins. Splendid views
CENTRAL COPENHAGEN: Rest of Denmark from the top-floor breakfast bar.
Hotel Amager 
Budget AALBORG: Helnan ODENSE: Hotel Ansgar 
Amagerbrogade 29, 2300 Phønix Hotel  Family
Tel 32 54 40 08 Family Østre Stationsvej 32, 5000
∑ hotelamager.dk Vesterbro 77, 9000 Tel 66 11 96 93
Delightful rooms with antique Tel 98 12 00 11 ∑ millinghotels.dk
furniture, and a shared kitchen. ∑ helnan.info Refurbished in an Italian style,
This historic hotel built in 1783 is this handsome red-brick hotel
CENTRAL COPENHAGEN: still providing classic hospitality is centrally located and has
Hotel Tiffany  in an elegant setting. excellent standards of service.
Family
Colbjørnsengade 28, 1652
Tel 33 21 80 50
∑ hoteltiffany.dk
Simple rooms with kitchenettes,
as well as free pastries and hot
drinks. Faultless service.
CENTRAL COPENHAGEN:
Savoy Hotel 
Family
Vesterbrogade 34, 1620
Tel 33 26 75 00
∑ savoyhotel.dk
Smart, central hotel in a red-brick
building, with comfortable rooms
overlooking a quiet courtyard. Simple rooms livened up by splashes of color at Copenhagen’s Andersen Hotel
648-649_EW_Europe.indd 648 14/07/16 3:42 pm