(DK Eyewitness) Travel Guide - Europe

TR A VELERS ’ NEEDS  649

Where to Eat and Drink

Price Guide
Copenhagen Prices are for a three-course meal
for one without alcohol or tip, but
CENTRAL COPENHAGEN: including tax.
Slotskælderen hos Gitte Kik   under 200 DKr
Danish Map C4  200 to 400 DKr
Fortunstræde 4, 1065  over 400 DKr
Tel 33 11 15 37
An excellent lunch-only spot right
off Strøget that specializes in Rest of Denmark
smørrebrød (open sandwich).
Diners make their selection from AALBORG: Duus Vinkjælder 
behind the glass counters, and the Scandinavian
staff brings it over. Also good sild Østerågade 9, 9000
(herring) and frikadeller (meatballs). Tel 98 12 50 56 Closed Sun
This atmospheric cellar restaurant
CENTRAL COPENHAGEN: and bar is renowned for its
Cap Horn  delicious frikadeller (meatballs)
Danish Map D4 and its variety of Danish
Nyhavn 21, 1051 smørrebrød (open sandwich).
Tel 33 12 85 04 Bright and cozy dining room at
Weathered walls, wooden floors, Koefoed, Copenhagen AALBORG:
and an open fireplace create the Søgaards Bryghus 
setting for Cap Horn’s classic yet down well with both local and Microbrewery
regularly changing menu, which visiting diners. Try the chicken C.W. Obelsplads 1, 9000
focuses on seafood and organic with rhubarb and asparagus, and Tel 98 16 11 14
dishes. Fast service. the popcorn and cola dessert. Søgaards Bryghus’s modern Danish
kitchen matches its seasonal
CENTRAL COPENHAGEN: CENTRAL COPENHAGEN: brews with brunch, lunch, and
Det Lille Apotek  Tight  dinner options, from hearty
Danish Map C4 International Map C4 burgers to herring platters.
Store Kannikestrade 15, 1169 Hyskenstræde 10, 1207
Tel 33 12 56 06 Tel 33 11 09 00 ÅRHUS: Miro 
The city’s oldest restaurant has a This busy, central eatery has a Danish/French
dark-wood interior. Classic Danish reputation for the best steak and Marstrandsgade 2, 8000
fare includes apotekergryde – burgers in town, but it also serves Tel 86 13 87 00 Closed Sun & Mon
a tasty stew of tenderloin pork top-notch seafood and pasta Meticulously prepared dishes are
in a paprika sauce. dishes at reasonable prices. loosely based on artworks by the
Book a table in advance. famous Catalan artist. Each dish is
CENTRAL COPENHAGEN: matched with a wine from an
Ida Davidsen  CENTRAL COPENHAGEN: extensive range.
Danish Map D3 Amass 
Store Kongensgade 70, 1264 Scandinavian ÅRHUS: Navigator 
Tel 33 91 36 55 Closed Sat & Sun; Jul Refshalevej 153, 1432 Danish/French
Ida Davidsen’s menu features more Tel 43 58 43 30 Closed Sun & Mon Marselisborg Havnevej 46D, 8000
than 250 types of smørrebrød With a harborfront location Tel 86 20 20 58
(open sandwich), all made with slightly north of the Opera Head to this lively restaurant
fresh ingredients. The family has House, Amass is run by former for well-cooked Danish-French
been making open sandwiches noma chef Matthew Orlando. Set staples in tune with the seasons.
since 1888. Open for lunch only. menus are created with locally When the weather permits, there
sourced ingredients. While dining is an outdoor grill and salad bar.
CENTRAL COPENHAGEN: here is an informal, spontaneous
Krebsegaarden  affair, booking ahead is advised. ODENSE: Den Gamle Kro 
Scandinavian Map B4 Scandinavian
Studiestræde 17, 1455 DK Choice Overgade 23, 5000
Tel 20 12 40 15 Closed Sun & Mon Tel 66 12 14 33
Small yet enormously popular for CENTRAL COPENHAGEN: Located in a 1683 building,
its excellent service. Krebsegaarden Koefoed  Den Gamle Kro offers dishes such
has a cozy interior, and a Scandinavian Map D3 as smoked eel with scrambled
changing menu inspired by the Landgreven 3, 1301 eggs and strawberries soaked
exhibitions in the adjacent gallery. Tel 56 48 22 24 Closed Sun & Mon in champagne.
Located on a side street just
CENTRAL COPENHAGEN: off Store Kongensgade, ODENSE: Sortebro Kro 
Oliver and the Black Circus  Koefoed finds both inspiration Scandinavian
Scandinavian Map B4 and produce – including Sejerskowej 20, 5260
Teglgårdsstræde 8A, 1452 meat, beer, and wine – from Tel 66 13 28 26 Closed Sun dinner
Tel 74 56 88 88 Closed Sun & Mon the island of Bornholm. The Set within the grounds of a
This restaurant’s mission to menu changes seasonally. historic farmhouse, this restaurant
provide adventurous cuisine Book well in advance. serves an excellent range of
at affordable prices has gone Danish dishes. Book ahead.
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SC ANDINA VIA  651

FINLAND


Finland is perhaps the least known of the Nordic countries. Historically,
geographically, and economically, the country straddles East and West, trading
and maintaining links with both Western Europe and the former states of the
Soviet Union. The Finns have a strong sense of national identity, and are rightly
proud of their beautiful unspoiled landscape of forest, lakes, coast, and islands.
About a third of Finland (Suomi in Finnish) Although by nature modest and not
is covered by native pine, spruce, and very practised at marketing themselves,
birch forests. Most of the rest is covered the Finns have achieved much economic
by water – an estimated 188,000 lakes, success, excelling in the fields of
numerous rivers, and extensive areas of technology and design. Nokia and Rovio,
marshland. Finland’s coastline is extremely the games developer (creator of Angry
indented and dotted with thousands of Birds), are some of Finland’s best-known
islands, most of which can be found in success stories in global terms, although
the archipelagos of the southwest. The many people are unaware of their
land is generally flat, apart from Finnish origins.
mountainous areas in Lapland. About
one third of the territory lies within the History
Arctic Circle, where the landscape is Little is known of early Finnish history,
strikingly beautiful, if sometimes bleak. although it is believed that the ancestors
Most of Finland’s towns and cities are of the Sami first arrived in Finland about
found in the southern coastal region, 9,000 years ago. Another group, whose
where they vie for space with extensive language evolved into modern Finnish,
stretches of farmland. The lake district, at arrived some 3,000 years later. In the 1st
the heart of Finland, is not so populous, millennium BC, the arrival of more groups,
but industrialization of the area has been including the ancestors of the present-day
steadily increasing since the mid-20th Finns, forced the Sami to withdraw
century. Northern Finland is still fairly northwards to Lapland.
undeveloped, with small pockets of Even before the beginning of the Viking
Finns inhabiting the south, while the age (8th–11th century AD), Swedes had
Sami (the nomadic people of Lapland) settled on the southwest coast of Finland,
are spread over the far north. and in 1216, Finland became part of




















A busy main street in central Helsinki
A group of islands in the Baltic Sea, near Helsinki



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652  SC ANDINA VIA

Sweden. Under Swedish sovereignty, the 1917. Between the two world wars, Finland
Finnish tribes gradually developed a sense was dominated by a controversy over
of unity, which would later form the basis language. The Finns fought for the
for a proud national identity. supremacy of their native tongue, and
From the 13th to the 18th centuries, the use of Swedish declined sharply.
Finland was a battleground for Despite its independent status,
power struggles between tensions between Finland and the
Sweden and Russia. In 1809, Soviet Union remained throughout
Sweden ceded Finland to the early 20th century. Years of fear
Russia, and the territory became culminated in the 1939–40
an autonomous Grand Duchy of Winter War against an invading
Russia. Helsinki was decreed the Soviet army, swiftly followed
Finnish capital in 1812, and by the by the “War of Continuation”
1830s, the transformation of this (1941–44), in which Finland
rocky fishing harbor into a aided German troops against
major Baltic trading city was the Soviet Union. Deep Kajaani
well underway. Statue of General Mannerheim, suspicion of the Soviet Union Kärsämäki
When Czar Nicholas II architect of independence continued for decades, but Kokkola 28
unwisely removed Finland’s following the demise of the Umeå 8 Iisalmi 6 Lieksa
autonomous status, a determination to USSR in 1991, Finland reached a new FINLAND Pielinen
achieve independence took root. This agreement with Russia which pledged to 16
independence was finally won in 1917, end disputes between them peacefully. Vaasa Lapua Kuopio
aided by the maneuverings of General Carl In recent years, Finland has carved for Seinäjoki Keitele 23 Joensuu
6
Gustaf Emil Mannerheim (1867–1951). itself a peace-brokering reputation, and Kurikka Orivesi
3
Mannerheim ousted the Russian soldiers has expanded economically through 8 23 Jyväskylä Varkaus
still garrisoned in Finland and thus averted membership of the European Union Parkano 13 14 Savonlinna
the immediate danger that the fledging and the efforts of its entrepreneurs. Gulf of 23 Jämsä R U S S I A
USSR might extend its Communist regime Bothnia Pori 11 Päijänne Mikkeli Lake
Saimaa
into the country. Finland’s declaration of Language and Culture Tampere 4 Imatra Ladoga
independence was finally recognized by What began as a linguistic and cultural 2 Komemäki 12 Heinola Lappeenranta
the Soviet government on December 31, exploration of Finnishness in the 1800s has Rauma Lahti 12 6
evolved into a confident, outward-looking 8 Forssa 3 25 4 Kouvola
KEY DATES IN FINNISH HISTORY sense of nationhood. At the heart of Salo 1 7 Kotka
Finnishness lies the notion of sisu, a kind Turku
1155 First Swedish crusade to Finland Åland S a a r i s t o m e r i 51 HELSINKI St. Petersburg
1216 Finland becomes a duchy of Sweden of courage against the odds, but it also Mariehamn Gulf of
1550 New market town of Helsinki established embraces everything in which the Finns Hankö Tallinn, Finland
1714 & 1721 Russia and Finland are at war take pride, such as the freedom to harvest Stockholm Stockholm, Rostock, St. Petersburg
Travemunde
1748 Island fortress of Suomenlinna under berries and mushrooms in the forests.
construction to defend Finland against Russians Outdoor pursuits have an important
1809 Finland is separated from Sweden and place in the national psyche, especially
becomes an autonomous Grand Duchy of Russia
cross-country skiing, swimming, boating,
1812 Helsinki becomes capital of Grand Duchy and cycling. Finland is also successful in
1917 Declaration of independence some competitive sports, such as long-
1939–44 Russia and Finland at war distance running and rally driving.
1995 Finland joins the European Union In the arts, the music of composer Jean
2000 Helsinki is European City of Culture and Sibelius remains Finland’s best-known
celebrates its 450th anniversary
2002 Finnish mark replaced by Euro cultural export. Finnish architects and
designers, in particular Alvar Aalto
2006 Finland assumes EU presidency
2012 Helsinki is World Design Capital (1898–1976) and the Marimekko
company, are renowned worldwide.




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FINLAND  653

Exploring Finland Finland 0 km 150

After many years in the tourism wilderness, Finns are 0 miles 150
working hard to put their country on the map of world
travel destinations. Wonderful natural amenities, a
manageable and attractive capital city, and excellent RUSSIA
public transportation make Finland an easy country to SWEDEN
promote. Trains are the most convenient way to get
around the country, although long-distance buses are See main map
often faster on east–west journeys. Destinations in the F I N L A N D
populous south are all easy to reach, but in the far north,
traveling takes more time and planning.

Sights at a Glance Turku HELSINKI
1 Helsinki pp654–7
2 Turku
3 Savonlinna Kajaani
4 Side Trip to St. Petersburg
pp658–9 Kärsämäki
28
Kokkola
Umeå 8 Iisalmi 6 Lieksa
FINLAND Pielinen
Vaasa 16
Lapua
Keitele Kuopio Joensuu
Seinäjoki 23
6
Orivesi
3
Kurikka
8 23 Varkaus
Jyväskylä Savonlinna
Parkano 13 14
Gulf of 23 Jämsä Mikkeli R U S S I A
Bothnia Päijänne
Pori 11 Saimaa Lake
Tampere 4
Imatra Ladoga
Komemäki 12 Heinola
Rauma 2 Lahti 12 6 Lappeenranta
8 4 Kouvola
Forssa 3 25
7
Salo 1 Kotka
Turku
Åland S a a r i s t o m e r i HELSINKI St. Petersburg
51
Mariehamn Gulf of
Hankö Tallinn, Finland
St. Petersburg
Stockholm, Rostock,
Stockholm Travemunde
0 kilometers 100
0 miles 100
Key
Highway
Major road
Railroad
International border

Lake Saimaa sightseeing cruise leaving Savonlinna
For hotels and restaurants see p662 and p663 For key to symbols see back flap


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654  SC ANDINA VIA


1 Helsinki

Finland’s capital since 1812, Helsinki is called the “White
City of the North,” a reference to the gleaming white
Neoclassical buildings commissioned by its Russian Key
rulers in the 19th century. It also boasts impressive Sight / Place of interest
modern architecture, from the copper, glass, and rock Pedestrian street
Temppeliaukio Church to the futuristic Kiasma center.
The city is at its best in summer, when long days and
clear light lift the mood of Finns, and the parks and
waterfront cafés fill with lively crowds.




TAKA-
TÖÖLÖ
S I B E L I U K S E N K AT U
SIBELIUKSEN T Ö Ö L Ö N K A T U
RUNEBE RGINKATU Töölönlahti
PUISTO TOPELIUKSENKATU HESPERIAN
PUISTO
VÄ L S KÄRI N KATU
P . H E S P E R I A N K A T U T Ö Ö L Ö N K A T U K aisaniem enlahti Hakaniemen Korkeasaari
E . H E S P E R I A N K A T U M A N N ERHEIMINTIE K A R A M Z I A NI N K ATU UNIO
Silta
M E R I K A N N O N T I E
M E C HE L I N IN K AT U
KASVITIETEELLINEN KRISTIANINKATU
PUUTARHA
KRUNNUNHAKA
M U S E O K A T U
KLUUVI L I I S A NKAT U
Pitkäsilta NINKATU
OKSASENKATU
Kaisaniemi
AU R O RANKATU
LUT H E R I N K ATU NE RVAN DERI N - KAT U K AISANIEMENKATU V I R O N K AT U
TE MP P E L I KAT U
Helsinki
Central RAUTA- S NE LL MA N IN K ATU RAU H A N KAT U ME R I TU LLI NK ATU P OHJO I S RANTA
A R K A DI AN KAT U Station TIENTORI UNIONINKATU
PAASIKIVE- F A B I A N I N K AT U K IRKK OK ATU
E.RAUTATIEKATU NAUKIO
POHJ. RAUTATIEKATU S A L O M O N K AT U KAIVOKATU HALLITUSKATU Pohjoissatama
ETU-TÖÖLÖ Kivi Museum
HIETANIEMENKATU
SENAATINTORI
A L E K S AN TER IN K AT U M A RI AN KATU
KAMPPI MANNERHEIMINTIE
M ECHELININK AT U
Kamppi A NN A N KATU POH JOI S E SP LA NA D I KAUPPATORI KA NAVA K ATU SATAMAKATU
K E S K U S K A T U
ETELÄESPLANADI
KALEVANKATU TINKATU YRJÖNKATU KAARTIN- FABI A NI NK AT U Eteläsatama
LA P I NL A H D E N KAT U
LÖNNRO
Sights at a Glance FREDRIKINKATU FRED RIKI NKATU KAUPUNKI
BULLEVARDI
1 Market Square ETEL.MAKES.K.
2 Uspenski Cathedral UUDENMAANKATU
3 Senate Square A LBE RT INK AT U ISO ROOBERTINKATU KORKEAVUOR
4 Helsinki Cathedral Getting Around K A S A R M I K A T U LAIVASILLANKATU Suomenlinna,
Korkeasaari
5 Ateneum Art Museum The center of Helsinki is easily MERIMIEHENKATU TÄHTITORNIN
6 Kiasma, Museum of explored on foot. The city’s efficient PURSIMIEHENKATU ENKATU VUORI
JOHANNEKSEN
Contemporary Art transportation network consists of TARKK'AMPUJANKATU Tallinn
PUISTO
7 Finlandia Hall buses, trams, and a metro system,
8 National Museum although the latter is of limited use
of Finland to tourists. Virtually all bus and tram
9 Temppeliaukio Church routes converge on the streets around
Helsinki Central Station. Suomenlinna
Greater Helsinki Sea Fortress can be reached by ferry
0 Suomenlinna Sea Fortress only, from Market Square.
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HELSINKI  655


city center. Its green copper
roof and gold “onion” domes
make it highly visible on
Helsinki’s skyline.
Designed in the Byzantine­
Russian architectural style by A.M.
Gornostayev of St. Petersburg,
the cathedral was built between
1862 and 1868. Uspenski is the
biggest Russian Orthodox
church in Scandinavia, and its
spacious interior is resplendent
Stall holder moored alongside the quay at in gold, silver, red, and blue. The
Helsinki’s Market Square terrace gives magnificent views
over the heart of Helsinki, and
1 Market Square the immediate area has been
Head of South Harbor. @ 16. v 1, improved by converting old
1A, 2, 4, 4T. ( 6.30am–6pm Mon–Fri, warehouses into shops and
TAKA- The National Museum of Finland, with 6:30am–4pm Sat, 9am–4pm Sun. restaurants. The sheer exuberance
TÖÖLÖ its landmark tower Closed Sun in winter. of the building forms a sharp
S I B E L I U K S E N K AT U
SIBELIUKSEN T Ö Ö L Ö N K A T U contrast to the Lutheran
RUNEBE RGINKATU Töölönlahti through a long winter, the
PUISTO TOPELIUKSENKATU HESPERIAN In summer, a short season austerity of Helsinki Cathedral.
PUISTO
that must sustain a nation
people of Helsinki sun
themselves in the cobbled
VÄ L S KÄRI N KATU
Finnish craftsmen sell hand­
P . H E S P E R I A N K A T U T Ö Ö L Ö N K A T U K aisaniem enlahti Hakaniemen Korkeasaari Market Square (Kauppatori).
made wares alongside fish, fruit,
Silta
E . H E S P E R I A N K A T U M A N N ERHEIMINTIE K A R A M Z I A NI N K ATU UNIO and vegetable stalls. During the
M E R I K A N N O N T I E
M E C HE L I N IN K AT U
KASVITIETEELLINEN KRISTIANINKATU Baltic Herring Market in October
PUUTARHA farmers come by boat from the
KRUNNUNHAKA
M U S E O K A T U
KLUUVI L I I S A NKAT U archipelago region of Aland just
Pitkäsilta NINKATU
OKSASENKATU
Kaisaniemi like their forefathers did.
AU R O RANKATU
LUT H E R I N K ATU NE RVAN DERI N - KAT U K AISANIEMENKATU V I R O N K AT U Among the fine buildings
TE MP P E L I KAT U
lining the square are the blue­
Helsinki
Central RAUTA- S NE LL MA N IN K ATU RAU H A N KAT U ME R I TU LLI NK ATU P OHJO I S RANTA painted City Hall, by Carl
A R K A DI AN KAT U Station TIENTORI UNIONINKATU Ludwig Engel (1778–1840),
PAASIKIVE- F A B I A N I N K AT U K IRKK OK ATU and the 19th­century red­ and
POHJ. RAUTATIEKATU S A L O M O N K AT U KAIVOKATU HALLITUSKATU Pohjoissatama containing several gourmet The red-brick exterior and “onion” domes
E.RAUTATIEKATU NAUKIO
ETU-TÖÖLÖ Kivi Museum yellow­brick Old Market Hall,
HIETANIEMENKATU
SENAATINTORI
A L E K S AN TER IN K AT U M A RI AN KATU and specialist food shops. of Uspenski Cathedral
KAMPPI MANNERHEIMINTIE Leading westward from
M ECHELININK AT U
Kamppi A NN A N KATU POH JOI S E SP LA NA D I KAUPPATORI KA NAVA K ATU SATAMAKATU Market Square is Esplanadi park, 3 Senate Square
K E S K U S K A T U
a favorite gathering place for
ETELÄESPLANADI
KALEVANKATU TINKATU YRJÖNKATU KAARTIN- FABI A NI NK AT U Eteläsatama Finns, who can be seen strolling v 1, 1A, 2, 4, 4T, 7A, 7B. @ 16.
LA P I NL A H D E N KAT U
down its wide boulevards. At
LÖNNRO BULLEVARDI KAUPUNKI the eastern end of the park is a Senate Square (Senaatintori)
UUDENMAANKATU KORKEAVUOR ETEL.MAKES.K. LAIVASILLANKATU Suomenlinna, Amanda (1905) by Ville Vallgren, Ludwig Engel (1778–1840). It
is the masterpiece of Carl
bronze statue of a nude, Havis
ISO ROOBERTINKATU
now a symbol of the city.
was built by Finland’s Russian
rulers in the early 1800s, and a
MERIMIEHENKATU
A LBE RT INK AT U
Russia stands in the center.
TÄHTITORNIN
VUORI Korkeasaari 2 Uspenski statue of Czar Alexander II of
JOHANNEKSEN
K A S A R M I K A T U
PURSIMIEHENKATU ENKATU Cathedral The pleasing proportions
PUISTO Tallinn
TARKK'AMPUJANKATU of the square are best viewed
FREDRIKINKATU FRED RIKI NKATU
Kanavakatu 1. Tel 09­634 267. v 4, from the top of the steps to
4T. Open Tue–Sun (Sun: pm only). Helsinki Cathedral. From here,
7 ask for assistance. the Senate Building lies to the
left and the University of
0 meters 500
With its dark red­brick exterior, Helsinki to the right. Adjacent
0 yards 500 this Russian Orthodox cathedral to the square is Sederholm
is a colorful landmark in the House (1757), the oldest
ubiquitous white of the historic stone building in Helsinki.
For keys to symbols see back flap
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656  SC ANDINA VIA


Helsinki’s most notable
examples of Finnish National-
Romantic architecture. The
museum illustrates the history
of Finland, from prehistory to
the present day through a
variety of artifacts. One of
the highlights is the throne of
Czar Alexander I from 1809.
The striking wall painting
by Akseli Gallen-Kallela (1865–
1931) in the entrance hall
depicts scenes from Finland’s
The steep south-facing steps leading to the Neoclassical Helsinki Cathedral national epic, a poem known
as the Kalevala.
4 Helsinki Cathedral 6 Kiasma, Museum
Unioninkatu 29, Senaatintori. Tel of Contemporary 9 Temppeliaukio
09-234 06120. v 1, 1A, 2, 4, 4T, 7A, Art
7B. @ 16. Open daily, except during Church
services. 7 call in advance. Crypt: Mannerheiminaukio 2. Tel 09-945 Lutherinkatu 3. Tel 09-234 06320. v
Open Jun–Aug: daily. ∑ helsingin 00501. @ v 4, 4T, 7A, 7B, 10 & many 2. @ 14, 18, 39, 39B, 41, 42, 45, 70T,
kirkot.fi/en/churches/cathedral routes. Open Tue–Sun. Closed public 205. Open daily (Sun: pm only). 7
hols. & 8 7 - = ∑ kiasma.fi
The five green cupolas of
the gleaming white Lutheran This glass and metal-paneled Built into a granite outcrop
Cathedral are a landmark on building, designed by American with walls of stone, this circular
Helsinki’s skyline. Designed by architect Steven Holl, was “Church in the Rock” is an
C.L. Engel, the Neoclassical completed in 1998 at a cost of astonishing piece of modern
building sits at the top of a over 227 million Finnish markka. architecture. Consecrated
steep flight of steps. With its fluid lines and white in 1969, it is the work of
White Corinthian columns interior, the museum is built architects Timo and Tuomo
decorate the splendid exterior, in a curve to maximize natural Suomalainen. The ceiling is
while the inside is rather light in the exhibition spaces. an enormous, domed, copper
spartan. There are, however, Intended as an exhibition disk, separated from the
statues of the 16th-century space for post-1960 art, Kiasma rough-surfaced rock walls by
Protestant reformers Martin hosts mixed media shows, art a ribbed ring of glass, which
Luther, Philipp Melanchthon, installations, contemporary allows light to filter in from
the great humanist scholar, and drama, and art workshops. outside. The austere interior is
Mikael Agricola, translator of the relatively free of iconography
Bible into Finnish. Beneath the 7 Finlandia Hall and religious symbolism.
cathedral is a crypt, now used Mannerheimintie 13E. Tel 09-40241. As well as being a major
for concerts and exhibitions. visitor attraction – some half
v 4, 4T, 7A, 7B, 10. @ 40. & 8 by
appt. 7 ∑ finlandiatalo.fi/en a million people come to
5 Ateneum Art Located in the tranquil setting of admire the church each year –
Museum Hesperia Park, striking Finlandia
Hall is one of architect Alvar
Kaivokatu 2. Tel 0294-500 401. v 1A, Aalto’s best-known works. The
2, 3, 4, 4T, 6, 6T, 7B, 9. Open 10am– hall hosts conferences and
6pm Tue & Fri, 9am–8pm Wed & Thu,
10am–5pm Sat & Sun. & 8 7 events, as well as a variety of
- ∑ ateneum.fi/en music and dance performances.
Located in the heart of the city, 8 National Museum
next to the main station, this
museum is part of the Finnish of Finland
National Gallery and houses Mannerheimintie 34. Tel 040-1286
the biggest collection of art 6469. @ 40. v 4, 4T, 7A, 7B, 10.
in Finland. In addition to over Open 11am–6pm Tue–Sun. Closed
20,000 works of art spanning public hols. & 7 8 by appt. -
two centuries (1750s–1950s), = ∑ nba.fi/en/nationalmuseum
there are interesting temporary
exhibitions. The building was Dating from the start of the
designed by Theodor Höijer 20th century, the National Interior of Temppeliaukio Church, with its
and completed in 1887. Museum of Finland is one of copper and glass dome
For hotels and restaurants see p662 and p663


656-657_EW_Europe.indd 656 14/07/16 10:10 am

HELSINKI  657


this popular Lutheran place of
worship is also used for organ
concerts and choral music.
0 Suomenlinna Sea
Fortress
4 from Market Square to residential
area of island. Tel 295-338 410. 8 by
appointment. 7 limited. 0 =
∑ suomenlinna.fi
Constructed by the Swedes
between 1748 and 1772, this
island fortress is the biggest in
Scandinavia, and is now a Suomenlinna Sea Fortress, the largest sea fortress in Scandinavia
UNESCO World Heritage Site.
Designed to defend the Finnish remains the center of Finland’s Moominworld
coast, Suomenlinna offered second language, Swedish. Naantali. @ 6, 7 from Turku.
security to Helsinki’s burghers Completed in 1300, Turku Tel 02-511 1111. Open Jun–Aug:
and merchants, enabling the Cathedral is the principal place daily; w/ends for rest of Aug. &
city to flourish. The fortress of worship for the Evangelical- ∑ muumimaailma.fi
contains about 200 buildings, Lutheran Church of Finland.
most of which date from the The museum holds many
18th century. Until the early ecclesiastical treasures. 3 Savonlinna
19th century, the fortress had Work on Turku Castle began * 36,000. £ @ 4 in summer.
more residents than Helsinki. in the late 13th century, but n Puistokatu 1 (015-517 510).
Eight hundred people still live reached its prime in the mid- _ International Opera Festival (Jul).
on the islands which receive 1500s with the addition of ∑ savonlinna.travel
more than 800,000 visitors a further rooms. The history
year who come to enjoy the of Turku and the castle are A good base from which to
cobbled courtyards and sea presented in Turku Castle. A make excursions into the
views. There are many eateries, double museum comprising Saimaa Lakelands, Savonlinna
galleries, and museums, Aboa Vetus and Ars Nova also has charms of its own.
including a toy museum. focus on life in medieval Turku Spread over several islands,
and 20th-century Finnish and the town boasts the castle of
international art respectively. Olavinlinna (St. Olav’s Castle),
2 Turku Other attractions include one of the best-preserved
the west bank of the River medieval castles in Scandinavia.
* 184,000. k £ @ 4 g
n Aurakatu 2 (02-262 7444). _ Aura with its many restaurants, The castle is home to the world-
Medieval Market (late Jun), Turku cafés, and river boats. The old renowned Savonlinna
Music Festival (Aug). ∑ visitturku.fi Market Hall is well worth a visit. International Opera Festival.
Archipelago cruises are also Founded in 1475, the castle
Turku (Åbo in Swedish), a available in summer. consists of three towers and a
bustling port with a modern bailey with an encircling wall
city center, was Finland’s + Turku Castle reinforced by more towers. There
principal city during the Linnankatu 80. Tel 02-262 0300. are two museums: the Castle
sovereignty of Sweden, and Open Tue–Sun. Closed public hols. Museum illustrates the history of
8 in summer. & 0 = the castle, while the Orthodox
∑ museumcentreturku.fi Museum displays items of
E Aboa Vetus and Ars Nova Russian Orthodox iconography
Itäinen Rantakatu 4–7. Tel 02-250 from both Finland and Russia.
0552. Open daily. Closed public hols.
& 8 7 (limited). + Olavinlinna
∑ aboavetusarsnova.fi Tel 040-128 6043. Open daily.
Closed some public hols. 8 &
Environs (free for children under 7). =
Just west of Turku lies Naantali,
a popular seaside resort with Environs
cruises available from the From Savonlinna harbor,
harbor. Moominworld, a steamships make excursions on
childrens’ theme park based Haapavesi and Pihlajavesi lakes,
The late 13th-century Turku Cathedral, on Tove Jansson’s creations, widely considered Finland’s
Finland’s main Evangelical-Lutheran church is also here. most beautiful scenery.




656-657_EW_Europe.indd 657 14/07/16 10:10 am

658  SC ANDINA VIA

4 Side Trip to St. Petersburg 4 The Hermitage

Russia’s second city, St. Petersburg is situated at the meeting of Dvortsovaya ploshchad 2. Tel 710 9079.
@ 7, 10, K-141, K-187, K-209, K-228.
the Neva river and the Gulf of Finland, and is easily accessible v 1, 7, 10, 11. Open Tue–Sun. & 7
from Helsinki by air, train, and boat. Founded in 1703 by Peter 8 English (571 8446 to book).
the Great and dubbed the “Venice of the North”, the city ∑ hermitagemuseum.org
comprises a bewitching mix of grand Neoclassical and Baroque Occupying a grand ensemble
architecture, sparkling waterways, and majestic bridges. of imperial buildings including
Nearby, the extravagant imperial palaces of Peterhof and the impressive Winter Palace,
Czarskoe Selo offer an insight into the excesses of Czarist days. the Hermitage houses one of
the world’s greatest collections
of art and artifacts. Ranging
Exploring St. Petersburg 2 Russian Museum from Egyptian mummies to a
The southern bank of the Neva Inzhenernaya ulitsa 4. Tel 595 4248. dazzling array of paintings,
is lined with stately palaces, q Nevskiy Prospekt, Gostinyy Dvor. it is essential to be selective.
and opposite, over the Troitskiy @ 3, 7, 22, 24, 27, 191, K-212, K-289.
Most, sits the Peter and Paul v 1, 5, 7, 10, 11, 22. Open Wed–Mon.
Fortress. To the west lies & 7 phone for details. 8 English
Sennaya Ploschad, an area of (314 3448 to book). ∑ rusmuseum.ru
pretty tree-lined canals and to
the east is the Gostinyy Dvor, One of Carlo Rossi’s finest
where shops, bars, and cafés Neoclassical creations, the
line Nevskiy prospekt. The Mikhaylovskiy Palace is the
center is easily explored by splendid setting for a truly
foot but a boat trip is one outstanding collection of
of the highlights of a visit. Russian art, ranging from
medieval icons to the latest
1 Nevskiy Prospekt painting, sculpture, and applied
art. The palace was built in
q Nevskiy Prospekt, Gostinyy Dvor. 1819–25 for Grand Duke Mikhail
Pavlovich. Alexander III’s plans
Russia’s most famous street, to create a public museum
Nevskiy prospekt, is also were realized by his son
St. Petersburg’s commercial hub. Nicholas II when the Russian
Laid out in the early days of the Museum opened here in 1898.
city, today the street teems with The grand staircase and White
people late into the night. Hall are original features. The golden dome of St Isaac’s Cathedral,
The western stretch contains visible across the city
a wealth of fine buildings 3 Church on
including the Baroque 5 St. Isaac’s
Stroganov Palace. Farther east, Spilled Blood Cathedral
there are growing numbers of Naberezhnaya Griboyedova Kanala 26.
cafés and bars as well as three Tel 315 1636. q Nevskiy Prospekt, Isaakievskaya ploshchad. Tel 315 9732.
historic shopping arcades. Gostinyy Dvor. Open Thu–Tue. q Admiralteyskaya, Sadovaya. @ 3,
& ^ 8 10, 22, 27, 71, 100, K-169, K190, K-289.
Open Thu–Tue. & 8
Also known as the Resurrection
Church of Our Savior, this St. Isaac’s, one of the world’s
church was built on the spot largest cathedrals, was designed
where on March 1, 1881 Czar in 1818 by the architect Auguste
Alexander II was assassinated. de Montferrand. The construc-
His successor, Alexander III, tion of the colossal building was
launched a competition for a major feat of engineering.
a permanent memorial. The Thousands of wooden piles
winning design, in the Russian were sunk into the marshy
Revival style, was by Alfred ground to support its 300,000
Parland and Ignatiy Malyshev. tonnes. The cathedral opened
A riot of color, the overall in 1858 but was designated a
effect of the church is created museum of atheism during the
by the imaginative juxtaposition Soviet era. Officially still a
of materials that are lavished on museum today, the church is
The Church on Spilled Blood, covered in the building, including 7,000 sq filled with myriad impressive
colorful mosaics m (75,300 sq ft) of mosaics. 19th-century works of art.
For hotels and restaurants see p662 and p663


658-659_EW_Europe.indd 658 14/07/16 10:10 am

SIDE TRIP T O ST . PE TERSBURG  659


VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
Practical Information
St. Petersburg, Russia.
* 5,191,000. n Hotels are the
main source of tourist information
and booking services. Language:
Russian. Currency: roubles.
Visas: all visitors (except Israeli
citizens) require a visa.
Transport
k from Helsinki by Finnair
(676 9898); from Moscow by
Aeroflot (337 3444). @ 055.
4 Maritime Passenger
The Mariinskiy Theater, one of Russia’s most important cultural institutions Terminal (322 6052).
6 Mariinskiy Environs
Theater Just a 45-minute trip by hydrofoil gold, and white facade is a
from the Hermitage, Peter the glitteringly striking sight.
Teatralnaya ploshchad. Tel 346 4141. Great’s sprawling Baroque
@ 2, 3, 6, 22, 27, 71, K-1, K-2, K-62, + Peterhof
K-124, K-154, K-169, K-186, K-350. residence, Peterhof, is a must-see Petrodvorets, 30 km (19 miles) W of
when staying in the city for a few
Open daily; shows at 7pm. & ^ St. Petersburg. Tel 450 5287. £ from
∑ mariinsky.ru/en days. Designed by Jean Baptiste
Le Blond, and built 1714–23, the Baltic Station to Novy Petergof then bus
This theater has been home to palace lies at the center of a 348, 350, and others. 4 board outside
the world-famous Mariinskiy magnificent landscaped park the Hermitage (May–Oct). Open Tue–
(Kirov) Opera and Ballet complete with ornamental Sun. Closed last Tue of month. & +
8 ∑ peterhofmuseum.ru
Company since 1860. Hidden ponds and spurting fountains.
behind its imposing facade is Altogether, a perfect expression + Tsarskoe Selo
the sumptuous auditorium of imperial triumphalism. 25 km (16 miles) S of St. Petersburg.
where many of Russia’s greatest Tsarskoe Selo, the lavish Tel 465 2024 (Russian only). £ from
dancers have performed. palace built for Czarina Elizabeth Vitebskiy Station to Detskoe Selo, then
Named in honor of Czarina also lies within easy reach. bus 371 or 382. Open hours vary;
Maria Alexandrovna, the Designed by Rasterelli in 1752, check website. Closed last Mon of
building was erected in 1860 by the 300 m (980 ft) long blue, month. & 8 ∑ eng.tzar.ru
the architect Albert Kavo.
7 SS Peter and Central St Petersburg
Paul Fortress 1 Nevskiy Prospekt
2 Russian Museum K R O N V E R K S K A Y A N A B
Petropavlovskaya krepost. 3 Church on Spilled Blood
q Gorkovskaya. Cathedral: Tel 230 Troitskiy
Most
6431. Open daily. & 8 English. 4 The Hermitage
∑ spbmuseum.ru 5 St. Isaac’s Cathedral
6 Mariinskiy Theater Birzhevoy N e v a SUVOROVSKAYA
Most
The founding of the Peter and 7 SS Peter and DVORTSOVAYA NAB Field of
Paul Fortress on May 27, 1703, Paul Fortress PLOSHCHAD NAB LEBYAZHEVO KANALA
Mars
on the orders of Peter the MILLIONNAYA UL
KONYUSHENNAYA
Great, is considered to mark Dvortsovyy PLOSHCHAD
the founding of the city. Its Most DVORTSOVAYA
B o l N e v a
history is a gruesome one, UNIVERSITETSKAYA NAB PLOSHCHAD
BOLSHAYA MORS KAY A UL
since hundreds of forced NEVSKIY PROSPEKT PLOSHCHAD
ISKUSSTV
laborers died while building Most ADMIRALTEYSKAYA NAB ADMIRALTEYSKIY PR NAB KANALA GRIBOEDOVA Nevskiy
Leytenanta
Prospekt
the fortress, and its bastions Shmidta MOYKI
were later used to guard KONNOGVARDEYSKIY BUL Gostinyy
and torture many political POCHTAMTSKAYA UL ISAAKIEV- Dvor
SKAYA PL
KAZANSKAYA UL
prisoners, including Peter’s N A B E R E Z H
own son Aleksey. The cells VOZNESENSKIY PR NAYA R E K I SAD O VAYA U L
where prisoners were kept are UL DEKABRISTOV Sadovaya Sennaya
open to the public, alongside a TEATRALNAYA SENNAYA Ploshchad
couple of museums and the 0 meters 500 PLOSHCHAD PLOSHCHAD
magnificent cathedral housing 0 yards 500
the tombs of the Romanovs.
Key to Symbols see back flap
658-659_EW_Europe.indd 659 09/08/2016 12:11

660  SC ANDINA VIA

Practical & Travel Information Banking and Currency
The Finnish currency unit is the
The Finnish are a practical people, and tourists can expect the euro (see p23). All euro notes
local information services to be both accurate and helpful. and coins are exchangeable
Finland’s main cities are all served by an efficient railroad in each of the participating
system and regular, inexpensive internal flights. Finns take Eurozone countries.
Banks usually open from
pride in their public transportation systems and promote 10am to 4:30pm Monday
environmentally friendly modes of travel. Cycling and walking to Friday. Most international
in summer and cross-country skiing in winter are an in-built credit cards are accepted in
part of the national psyche. The capital, Helsinki, is easy to many places all over Finland.
navigate on foot, by bicycle, or using public transportation.
Communications
Tourist Information At Finnish customs, there is a Post offices in Finland usually
For general and location- blue channel for citizens of EU open from 9am to 6pm Monday
specific information, get in countries. to Friday, although the main
touch with the Finnish Tourist post office in Helsinki operates
Board, which has offices in longer hours. You can buy
major cities all over the world. Safety and Emergencies stamps from kiosks and book-
The Finnish Tourist Board office Finland has very low crime stores, as well as at post offices.
in Helsinki has information statistics, although drunks Public telephones are no
about different parts of Finland (largely harmless) have been a longer available. Prepaid SIM
in several languages. Helsinki, common sight in Finnish towns cards for cell phones can be
Turku, and Savonlinna all have and cities for years. Mosquitoes bought from kiosks and
a local tourist office. are very active during the vending machines.
The best time to visit Finland summer months near water
is between May and September, (which is just about everywhere), Saunas
but winter in northern Finland but their bites do not carry
has its own special, snow-laden disease. Tap water is safe to drink. Many hotels have a sauna, but
charm. Many tourist attractions In case of emergencies, the they are usually electric ones. For
in Finland close on Mondays, appropriate number to call is a memorable sauna experience,
and some have seasonal listed in the Directory opposite. seek out a wood-fired sauna –
opening hours. preferably close to a lake or the
sea – or a traditional “smoke
Language
Visa Requirements Finland has two official sauna” (savusauna). The sauna is
a popular and family-friendly
Visitors who are not citizens of languages – Finnish, which is place in which to relax and
Norway, Denmark, Sweden, or spoken by around 94 per cent unwind – there are over a million
Iceland must have a passport to of the population, and Swedish, in Finland. Helsinki boasts the
enter Finland. Members of most which is spoken by 5 per cent. superb Kotiharjun wood-fired
EU countries may use an official Road signs and maps are often sauna (call 09-753 1535). The
EU identity card in lieu of their in both languages and there are Finnish Sauna Society has two
passport. Visas are not required different national newspapers wood-fired saunas and three
for visitors from the UK, Ireland, for each language, too. Younger smoke saunas set beside the
the United States, Canada, Finns often speak some English, sea (call 050 371 8178 for
Australia, or New Zealand. and are very eager to practise it. more information).
The Climate of Finland Flying to Finland
HELSINKI
In northern Finland (beyond Most international flights arrive
the Arctic Circle), the sun at Helsinki’s Vantaa Airport,
remains above the horizon °C/ºF which is 19 km (12 miles) north
for a month in summer. This 21/70 of Helsinki. Finnair and British
gives Finland its sobriquet Airways both operate daily
“Land of the Midnight Sun.” 7/45 11/52 7/45 scheduled services from
Even in Helsinki, there are 0/32 -2/36 -3/27 London Heathrow to Helsinki.
-8/18
almost 20 hours of daylight 9 10 8 7 Some special “visit Father
in summer. In winter, the hrs hrs hrs hrs Christmas” winter flights fly
average temperature falls 38 74 74 41 direct from the UK to
well below 0° C (32° F), but mm mm mm mm Rovaniemi on the Arctic Circle.
low humidity makes the month Apr Jul Oct Jan
extreme cold less raw. KLM and SAS operate regular
flights from Amsterdam and
Copenhagen respectively to



660-661_EW_Europe.indd 660 14/07/16 10:20 am

FINLAND  661

Traveling by Bus
Helsinki. Travel from North cruises are all available from
America to Helsinki usually Buses in rural areas are the TourExpert office. Taxis are
involves connecting flights infrequent (but reliable), while an expensive way of getting
(changing in Greenland or intercity buses are fast and around; ask the driver for an
in Europe) but Finnair efficient. Long-distance journeys idea of the cost before you
flies direct from New York are very time- consuming, so it is embark on your journey.
to Helsinki. worth considering the relatively Finland’s island-hopping
inexpensive domestic flights. passenger motorcruisers are
a fun form of transportation,
Arriving by Sea giving a real taste of relaxed
Traveling by Car
The luxury ferries that ply the Finnish summer living.
waters between Stockholm in Car rental has come down in If you plan to visit several
Sweden and the Finnish ports cost since Finland joined the attractions, it is worth investing
of Helsinki and Turku have a EU. Even so, car hire using the in a Helsinki Card (available from
reputation for offering a state- main international agencies is the Helsinki City Tourist Office
of-the-art cruising experience. still pricey. Europcar offers some and from most hotels). Valid
The superliners – operated by of the more reasonable rates. for one, two, or three days, the
Tallink Silja Line and Viking Laws about driving under the Card gives unlimited travel on
Line – take about 17 hours to influence of alcohol are strict public transportation and on
make the crossing, which allows and rigidly enforced, as are some ferries, reductions on
plenty of time for passengers speed restrictions. Elk and some theater, dance, and opera
to enjoy shopping, entertain- reindeer are a serious road tickets, and free admission to
ment, and the celebrated danger, so do pay attention all major Helsinki sights and
smörgåsbord buffets. to animal hazard signs. nearly 50 museums. Other
benefits include reductions
on sightseeing tours and on
Rail Travel Getting Around Helsinki goods in some shops.
Finland’s national rail network Helsinki is manageable on Another option is the Helsinki
is run by the State Railroads foot or by bicycle, but buses, City Transport tourist ticket,
of Finland (Valtion Rautatiet trams, and the metro provide which entitles you to unlimited
or VR). Finnish trains are reliable easy alternatives. The number 2 travel on all buses, trams, the
and clean. Advance tram circles central Helsinki, metro, and local trains in Helsinki.
reservations are recommended stopping at several important The ticket is valid for one,
for long-distance, intercity (IC), sights. Bear in mind that this line three, or five days and is
and some express (EP) trains. In changes its name to number 3 available at all Helsinki City
Helsinki, tickets can be bought halfway through its route. Transport (HKL) points and
at Helsinki Central Station. Cycle tours, city walks, and tourist offices.
DIRECTORY
Tourist Helsinki City Tourist Emergencies Viking Line
Information Office Tel 0600-415 77.
Pohjoisesplanadi 19, Ambulance, Police, ∑ vikingline.fi
Finnish Tourist Board FIN-00099 Helsinki. and Fire
Tel 09-3101 3300. Rail Travel
∑ mek.fi ∑ visithelsinki.fi Tel 112.
∑ visitfinland.com Air Travel Helsinki Central
Embassies Station
Finland Tel 0600-41 902
Porkkalankatu 1, Canada Finnair or 09-2319 2902.
Tel 0600-140 140.
FI-00181 Helsinki. Pohjoisesplanadi 25b, ∑ vr.fi
Helsinki. Tel 0870-241 4411 (UK).
Tel 010-605 8000.
Tel 09-228 530. Tel 800-950 5000 (US). Car Rental
UK ∑ dfait-maeci.gc.ca ∑ finnair.com
PO Box 33213, UK Vantaa Airport Avis
London W6 8JX. Itäinen Puistotie 17, Tel 0200-14636. Tel 010-436 2200.
Tel 020-8001 0101. Helsinki. ∑ helsinkivantaa.fi Budget
Tel 09-2286 5100. ∑
US britishembassy.gov.uk Ferry Services Tel 02-0746 6600.
PO Box 4649, Grand US Europcar
Central Station, Itäinen Puistotie 14a, Tallink Silja Line Tel 0200-121 54.
New York, NY 10163. Helsinki. Tel 09-616 250. Tel 0600-157 00. Hertz
Tel 212-885 9700. ∑ usembassy.fi ∑ tallinksilja.com Tel 020-555 2000.




660-661_EW_Europe.indd 661 14/07/16 10:20 am

662  FINLAND AND ST . PE TERSBURG

Where to Stay

Price Guide
Helsinki Rest of Finland Prices are based on one night’s stay in
high season for a standard double room,
CENTRAL HELSINKI: SAVONLINNA: Family inclusive of breakfast, tax and service.
Prices for St. Petersburg are in US dollars.
Eurohostel € Hotel Hospitz €€
Budget Family € up to €75 / up to $200
Linnankatu 3, 00160 Linnankatu 20, 57130 €€ €75 to €200 / $200 to $400
∑ eurohostel.eu Tel 015-515 661 €€€ over €200 / over $400
This convivial hostel in the central ∑ hospitz.com
Katajanokka island district has a A serene hotel with restaurant on TURKU: Scandic Julia €€
spacious lounge and dining area. the shore of Lake Saimaa, close to Modern
Olavinlinna Castle. Open Apr–Dec. Eerikinkatu 4, 20100
CENTRAL HELSINKI: Tel 02-336 000
Hostel Domus Academica €€ SAVONLINNA: ∑ scandichotels.com
Budget Lossiranta Lodge €€ This hotel has immaculate rooms,
Hietaniemenkatu 14, 00100 Family free bike hire, sauna, gym, and an
Tel 09-131 14334 Olavinkatu 8, 57130 indoor children’s play area.
∑ hostelacademica.fi Tel 044-5112 323
Great option with a sauna and ∑ lossiranta.net
decent facilities. Open Jun–Aug. Charming lakeside hotel located
opposite Olavinlinna Castle. St. Petersburg
CENTRAL HELSINKI:
Hotel Klaus K €€ SAVONLINNA: Seurahuone €€ GOSTINYY DVOR: Polikoff $
Luxury Map C4 Modern Budget
Bulevardi 2–4, 00120 Kauppatori 4–6, 57130 26 Nevsky Prospekt 64/11
∑ klauskhotel.com Tel 015-202 02 Tel 995 3488
Tel 020-770 4700 ∑ sokoshotels.fi ∑ polikoff.spb.ru
A design hotel with a wide Panoramic lake views from most This smart hotel has good-sized
variety of rooms and a superb rooms, as well as from the rooftop rooms and excellent breakfasts.
restaurant. Great service. restaurant and sixth-floor saunas.
GOSTINYY DVOR: Pushka Inn $$
CENTRAL HELSINKI: TURKU: Omena € Boutique
Original Sokos Vaakuna €€ Budget Naberezhnaya Reki Moyki 14
Modern Map C4 Humalistonkatu 7, 20100 Tel 644 7120
Assema-aukio 2, 00100 ∑ omenahotels.com ∑ pushka-inn.com
Tel 020-123 4610 Unique self-service establishment Stay in fabulous rooms within a
∑ sokoshotels.fi without a receptionist. Book restored 18th-century mansion
One of Finland’s most stylish online or at the hotel’s kiosk. close to the Hermitage.
hotels, with great views of the Breakfast is not available.
city from the top-floor restaurant. PALACE EMBANKMENT:
TURKU: Park Hotel €€ Casa Leto $$
CENTRAL HELSINKI: Boutique Boutique
Scandic Paasi €€ Rauhankatu 1, 20100 Bolshaya Morskaya 34
Boutique Tel 022-732 555 Tel 600 1096
Paasivuorenkatu 5b, 00530 ∑ parkhotelturku.fi ∑ casaleto.com
Tel 09-231 1700 A lovely hotel in an Art Nouveau One of the city’s best mini-hotels,
∑ scandichotels.com building. Quirky features include with just five classically styled
Decorated in unique style, this a parrot at the reception. suites. Superb central location.
central hotel offers excellent
service and a cozy atmosphere. PALACE EMBANKMENT:
Comfort $$
DK Choice Family
Bolshaya Morskaya 25
CENTRAL HELSINKI: Tel 570 6700
Kämp €€€ ∑ comfort-hotel.ru
Luxury Map C4 A simply furnished hotel within
Pohjoisesplanadi 29, 00100 walking distance of most of the
Tel 09-576 111 city’s central sights. Tabletop
∑ hotelkamp.fi games and DVD players.
Founded in 1887, this belle-
époque property is one of PALACE EMBANKMENT:
Helsinki’s most outstanding Astoria $$$
hotels. Many of the rooms Luxury
have a 19th-century style Bolshaya Morskaya 39
while featuring modern Tel 494 5757
amenities and opulent marble ∑ thehotelastoria.com
bathrooms with a separate The opulent Astoria has a
bath and walk-in shower. The distinctive historic charm. Rooms
breakfasts are divine. Atrium, featuring a speculator chandelier, at the front offer views over St.
of the opulent Kämp hotel, Helsinki Isaac’s Cathedral and Square.
662-663_EW_Europe.indd 662 14/07/16 3:47 pm

TR A VELERS ’ NEEDS  663

Where to Eat and Drink

Price Guide
Prices are for a three-course meal
for one, including a glass of house
wine, tax, and service. Prices for
St. Petersburg are in US dollars.
€ up to €15 (up to $30)
€€ €15 to €35 ($30 to $40)
€€€ over €35 (over $40)
as Arctic char and pikeperch.
A lovely spot to sample a few
glasses of the local brew.
TURKU: Hus Lindman €€€
International
Piispankatu 15, 20500
Tel 040-044 6100 Closed Sat & Sun
Occupying an idyllic position
A huge mural of the eponymous creatures decorates the Sea Horse, Helsinki on the bank of the River Aura,
this reasonably priced lunchtime
Helsinki DK Choice restaurant is located within an
elegant 18th-century house.
CENTRAL HELSINKI:
CENTRAL HELSINKI: Sea Horse €€€ TURKU:
Gran Delicato € Finnish Viikinkiravintola Harald €€€
Mediterranean Map B4 Kapteeninkatu 11, 00140 Finnish
Kalevankatu 34, 00180 Tel 09-628 169 Aurakatu 3, 20100
Tel 09-694 0403 In business since the 1930s, Tel 044-766 8204
This popular, brightly decorated this legendary restaurant is as A Viking-themed restaurant with
café in the center of town serves renowned for its dish of 16 animal heads adorning the walls.
excellent sandwiches and salads, fried herrings as it is for its The fixed-price menus of hearty
plus its own blends of coffee. reindeer steak. The owners’ meat dishes are named after the
winning recipe of serving several Viking voyages.
CENTRAL HELSINKI: hearty Finnish food in simple,
Strindberg €€ unpretentious surroundings has
International Map C4 long attracted celebrity diners
Pohjoisesplanadi 33, 00100 and consistently rave reviews. St. Petersburg
Tel 09-612 86900
One of the most loved and GOSTINYY DVOR: Kavkaz-Bar $$
central eateries in the capital. CENTRAL HELSINKI: Zetor €€€ Caucasus
Downstairs, the café offers tasty Finnish Map C4 Karavannaya ulitsa 18
pastries for breakfast, while the Mannerheimintie 3–5, 00100 Tel 312 1665
menu at the upscale restaurant Tel 010-766 4450 Kavkaz-Bar has a superb location,
upstairs features contemporary Owned by the Kaurismäki close to Nevskiy prospekt, and
cuisine in a cozy atmosphere. brothers, who are Finnish icons, an intimate atmosphere. It also
this quirky late-night restaurant serves the best vegetarian
CENTRAL HELSINKI: offers a meat-and-potato-centric kebabs in town.
Kuu Kuu €€€ menu. The decor includes a rusty
Finnish tractor and sawdust on the floor. PALACE EMBANKMENT: 1913 $$
Museokatu 17, 00100 Russian
Tel 09-270 90974 Voznesenskiy prospekt 13/2
This laid-back restaurant serves Tel 315 5148
both Scandinavian classics and Rest of Finland Named after the last year of
modern interpretations of Russian imperialism, 1913 prides
traditional Finnish cuisine. The RANTASALMI: Järvisydän itself on generous portions of
menu features such dishes as Piikatyttö €€€ outstanding regional dishes
salmon soup and meatballs. Finnish such as draniki (potato pancakes)
There is terrace dining in summer. Porosalmentie 313, 58900 with bacon and sorrel soup, as
Tel 020-729 1760 Closed Sep– well as lobster dishes.
CENTRAL HELSINKI: Saslik €€€ mid-Jun
Russian Feast on food inspired by PALACE EMBANKMENT:
Neitsytpolku 12, 00140 17th-century recipes at this inn Via Dell’Oliva $$$
Tel 09-742 55500 50 km (30 miles) from Savonlinna. Mediterranean
The lavish decor, period Bolshaya Morskaya ulitsa 31
furnishings, and traditional folk SAVONLINNA: Huvila €€€ Tel 314 6563
singing in this Russian restaurant Finnish This huge taverna, with its own
may be too much for some, but Puistokatu 4, 57100 bakery, offers a healthy and
Saslik is still a great place to Tel 015-555 0555 Closed Sun varied Greek menu, an extensive
sample bear steak and Russian Lakeside restaurant and brewery salad bar, and a good range of
staples such as blini. serving delectable local fish such Mediterranean hors d’oeuvres.
662-663_EW_Europe.indd 663 14/07/16 3:47 pm

664-665_EW_Europe.indd 664 14/07/16 10:45 am

CENTRAL AND

EASTERN


EUROPE





Central and Eastern Europe
at a Glance 666–667
Czech Republic 668–689
Hungary 690–705

Poland 706–723















































664-665_EW_Europe.indd 665 14/07/16 10:45 am

666  CENTR AL AND EASTERN EUROPE


Central and Eastern
Europe at a Glance

At the geographical heart of mainland Europe, Hungary,
Poland, and the Czech Republic have witnessed a huge
surge in visitor numbers since the end of Communism in Koszalin Gdańsk
the late 1980s and early 1990s. Despite the widespread
destruction caused by two world wars, their towns and
cities retain a wealth of historic monuments, many of
which have been painstakingly restored to their former Szczecin
glory. Fortunately, tourism has not destroyed the unique Bydgoszcz Białystok
cultural identity of these once little-known countries. Toruń
Poznań
Prague (see pp672–83), Warsaw
the capital of the POLAND
Czech Republic, is (see pp706–23)
a vibrant city with a
rich architectural and Łódź
cultural heritage. The Radom
hilltop castle complex Lublin
is dominated by the Wrocław
magnificent St. Vitus’s Ústí nad
Cathedral, whose Labem Liberec Częstochowa
treasures include
many royal tombs.
Karlovy Katowice
Vary Prague Krakow
Plzeň CZECH REPUBLIC Ostrava
(see pp668–89) Olomouc

Brno
České
Budějovice


Miskolc
Eger
Győr
Debrecen
Szombathely Budapest
Bohemia (see pp684–5) holds the greatest appeal HUNGARY
for most foreign visitors to the Czech Republic. (see pp690–705)
The region boasts elegant spas, fairy-tale castles Kecskemét
perched high on thickly wooded hillsides, and
many perfectly preserved medieval towns, such
as Český Krumlov in the far south. Szeged
Kaposvár
Pécs






Lake Balaton (see p700), a huge freshwater lake
in western Hungary, is the country’s most
popular summer vacation destination. Bordered
by dozens of resorts, it offers beaches, safe
bathing, and water sports, and also provides a
habitat for a wide variety of flora and fauna.
View of Old Town from Charles Bridge in Prague, Czech Republic



666-667_EW_Europe.indd 666 14/07/16 10:10 am

A T A GLANCE  667










Koszalin Gdańsk
Locator Map
Szczecin
Bydgoszcz Białystok
Toruń

Poznań
POLAND Warsaw
(see pp706–23)
Łódź
Radom
Lublin
Wrocław
Ústí nad Warsaw (see pp710–15) was largely rebuilt
Labem Liberec Częstochowa during the Communist era following complete
destruction in World War II. Many of its grandest
Karlovy Katowice buildings date from the Baroque period,
Vary Prague Krakow including the splendid Royal Castle.
Plzeň CZECH REPUBLIC Ostrava
(see pp668–89) Olomouc

Brno Krakow (see pp716–19), in
České southern Poland, has
Budějovice historic monuments
spanning hundreds of
years, and has been
declared a UNESCO World
Miskolc Heritage Site. Its skyline
Eger is dominated by dozens
Győr of churches, the most
Debrecen important being the
Szombathely Budapest Gothic St. Mary’s Church
HUNGARY in Market Square.
(see pp690–705)
Kecskemét

Szeged 0 km 75
Kaposvár
Pécs 0 miles 75






Budapest (see pp694–9) is rich in historical
treasures, from medieval ruins to late 19th-
and early 20th-century Secessionist buildings.
Mátyás Church preserves some of its original
Gothic features, such as the glorious stone
carving on the Mary Portal.




666-667_EW_Europe.indd 667 14/07/16 10:10 am

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CENTR AL AND EASTERN EUROPE  669

CZECH REPUBLIC



The Czech Republic is one of Europe’s youngest states. In the years after World
War II, foreign visitors to what was then Czechoslovakia rarely ventured farther
than the capital, Prague. Today, the country’s beautifully preserved medieval
towns and castles are attracting an ever-increasing number of tourists.
The Czech Republic is divided into two has been boosted by tourism. The
regions, Bohemia and Moravia. Rolling country is a member of NATO and
plains and lush, pine-clad mountains, it held presidency of the EU in 2009.
dotted with medieval chateaux and
19th-century spa resorts, characterize History
the landscape of southern and western From 500 BC, the area now known as
Bohemia. In spite of the recent influx of the Czech Republic was settled by
tourists, life here still proceeds at a gentle, Celtic tribes, who were later joined by
relaxed pace. In contrast, much of Germanic peoples. The first Slavs, the
northern Bohemia has been given over forefathers of the Czechs, came to the
to mining and other heavy industry, region around 500 AD. Struggles for
with devastating effects on the local supremacy led to the emergence of a
environment. Moravia has orchards and ruling dynasty, the Přemyslids, at the
vineyards in the south, and a broad start of the 9th century. The Přemyslids
industrial belt in the north of the region. were involved in many bloody family
Bohemia’s largest city and the capital of feuds. In 935, Prince Wenceslas was
the Czech Republic, Prague is a thriving murdered by his brother, Boleslav.
cultural and commercial center that bears Later canonized, Wenceslas became
little relation to most people’s expectations Bohemia’s best-known patron saint.
of an “Eastern” European city. Its wealth of The reign of Holy Roman Emperor
magnificent architecture, spanning over a Charles IV in the 14th century heralded
thousand years, has withstood two world a Golden Age for Bohemia. Charles
wars in the last century. chose Prague as his imperial residence
Since the early 1990s, the Czech and founded many prestigious
Republic has emerged as a relatively institutions there, including central
healthy democratic state. Its economy Europe’s first university.




















Rooftops of Prague’s Malá Strana (Little Quarter), covered in snow
The splendid medieval castle overlooking the village of Karlstein, Bohemia



668-671_EW_Europe.indd 669 14/07/16 10:45 am

670  CENTR AL AND EASTERN EUROPE


In the early 15th century, central Europe The 19th century saw a period of Czech
shook in fear of an incredible fighting national revival and the burgeoning of
force – the Hussites, followers of the civic pride. But, a foreign power still ruled,
reformer Jan Hus, who preached in and it was not until 1918 and the collapse
Prague and attacked the of the Habsburg Empire that
corrupt practices of the the independent republic of
Catholic Church. His Czechoslovakia was declared.
execution for heresy in World War II brought German
1415 led to the Hussite occupation, followed by four
wars. The radical wing decades of Communism.
of the Hussites, the In 1968, a program of liberal
Taborites, were finally reforms was introduced,
defeated at the Battle known as the “Prague Spring”;
of Lipany in 1434. the reforms were swiftly
At the start of the 16th quashed by Soviet leaders,
century, the Austrian who sent in troops to occupy
Habsburgs took over, the country. The overthrow of
beginning a period of Engraving showing the radical cleric Jan Communism did not come
rule that would last for Hus being burned at the stake until 20 years later: in
almost 400 years. November 1989, a protest
Religious turmoil led, in 1618, to the rally in Prague against police brutality led
Protestant revolt and the 30 Years’ War. to the “Velvet Revolution” – a series of mass
The end of the war ushered in a period demonstrations and strikes that resulted in
of persecution of all non-Catholics and the resignation of the existing regime. The Berlin,
a systematic Germanization of the most recent chapter in Czech history was Leipzig Děčín 13
country’s institutions. closed in 1993 with the peaceful division G E R M A N Y Teplice Liberec
of Czechoslovakia into two independent 8
KEY DATES IN CZECH HISTORY states – Slovakia and the Czech Republic. Terezín Turnov
13 Chomutov
500 BC Celts in Bohemia and Moravia. Joined by Žatec D8 Elbe (Labe) Mladá
Germanic tribes in 1st century AD Language and Culture Karlsbad 27 10 Boleslav 33
AD 500–600 Slavs settle in the region Under the Habsburgs, Czech identity 6 (Karlovy Vary) Kladno PRAGUE Hradec
867 Dynasty of Přemyslids founded was largely suppressed and the Czech 6 (Praha) D11 Poděbrady 11 Králové
880 Přemyslids build Prague Castle language became little more than a D5 12
1333 Charles IV makes Prague his home, marking the dialect, mainly spoken among the Marienbad Karlstein Kutná
(Mariánské Lázně)
start of the city’s Golden Age peasant population. In the 19th century, 21 (Karlštejn) Hora 37
1415 Jan Hus burned at the stake for heresy; start of however, Austrian rule relaxed, and the
the Hussite Wars D5 Pilsen CZECH REPUBLIC
1526 Habsburg rule begins with Ferdinand I Czechs began rediscovering their own (Plzeň) Vltava D1 M o r a v i a
1576 Accession of Habsburg Emperor Rudolf II culture. The first history of the Czech Nuremberg 26 B o h e m i a 3 Humpolec
nation was written by the Moravian
1618 Protestant revolt leads to the 30 Years’ War 20 Tabor 19
1627 Beginning of Counter-Reformation committee František Palacký, and Czech was Klatovy Jihlava
in Prague re-established as an official language. Písek D3 34
19th century Czech National Revival Since the Golden Age of the 14th 27 Strakonice Brno
23
1918 Foundation of Czechoslovakia century, Prague has prided itself on its 4 Jindřichův
1948 Communist Party assumes power reputation as a flourishing cultural center. 22 Budweis Hradec
1989 Year of the “Velvet Revolution”; Communist In the early 20th century, the city had a Munich (České Budějovice) 38
regime finally overthrown Cubist movement to rival that of Paris.
1993 Czechoslovakia ceases to exist; creation of the The Czech Republic has produced Znojmo
Český
new Czech Republic Krumlov 3
2004 Czech Republic joins the EU writers, artists, and musicians of world Vienna
2009 Presidency of the EU renown including Franz Kafka, Alfons A U S T R I A
Mucha, and Antonín Dvořák. Linz




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CZECH REPUBLIC  671

Exploring the Czech Republic

One of Europe’s most beautiful capital cities, Prague
is undoubtedly the highlight of a visit to the Czech
Republic. Away from this bustling, cosmopolitan city,
however, the tranquil Bohemian countryside is home to
dozens of castles and historic towns, whose appearance
has remained virtually unchanged for hundreds of years.
Most of the main sights of interest can be visited on a day
trip from Prague, and are easily reached from the capital
by good public transportation and road networks.
Slightly farther afield, Český Krumlov merits at least Prague’s Charles Bridge and the buildings of
a couple of days’ exploration. the Old Town

Sights at a Glance Czech Republic 0 km 100
1 Prague pp672–83 GERMANY 0 miles 100
2 Karlstein
3 Kutná Hora Liberec P O L A N D
4 Karlsbad PRAGUE Katowice
5 Český Krumlov (Praha)
Ostrava
CZECH REPUBLIC
Olomouc
0 km 45 Brno
0 miles 45 Vienna (Wien) SLOVAKIA
Bratislava
AUSTRIA
Berlin,
Leipzig 13
Děčín Liberec
G E R M A N Y
Teplice
8
Terezín Turnov
13 Chomutov
Žatec D8 Mladá
27 Elbe (Labe) Boleslav 33
Karlsbad 10
(Karlovy Vary)
6 Kladno PRAGUE Poděbrady Hradec
6 (Praha) D11 11 Králové
D5 12
Marienbad
(Mariánské Lázně) Karlstein Kutná
(Karlštejn) Hora 37
21
CZECH REPUBLIC
D5 Pilsen
(Plzeň) Vltava D1 M o r a v i a
Nuremberg 26
B o h e m i a 3 Humpolec
20 Tabor 19
Klatovy
Jihlava
34
Písek D3
Strakonice Brno
27
23
4 Jindřichův
Hradec
22 Budweis
Key (České Budějovice)
Munich 38
Highway
Major road Znojmo
Český 3
Railroad Krumlov
International border Vienna
A U S T R I A
Linz
For hotels and restaurants see p688 and p689 For keys to symbols see back flap
668-671_EW_Europe.indd 671 14/07/16 10:45 am

672  CENTR AL AND EASTERN EUROPE


1 Prague

Prague, capital of the Czech Republic, has a population of
just over one million. In the late Middle Ages, during the
reign of Charles IV, Prague’s position as the crossroads of
Europe aided its growth into a magnificent city, larger than
Paris or London. In the 16th century the Austrian Habsburgs
took over and built many of the Baroque palaces and
gardens that delight visitors today. Some of these palaces The Three Fiddles, an old house sign
now house important museums and galleries. Prague’s in Nerudova Street
Jewish Quarter has a handful of synagogues and a cemetery,
which remarkably survived the Nazi occupation. Despite
neglect under Communist rule, the historic center of the CHOTKOVY
SADY
city has been preserved. H R A D B Y V A
J E L E N I M A R I Á N S K É CHOT K O P O D B R U S K O U F R A N T I Š K U
KRÁLOVSKÁ ZAHRADA N A

ROYAL GARDEN Klášter sv. Anežky
St. Agnes's Convent
J E L E N Í U B R U S N I C E H RADČANY NA O PYŠI P A Ř Í Ž S K Á NÁMĚSTÍ D U Š N Í U MIL OSRDNÝCH H R A DEB N Í
CURIEOVÝCH
LEDEBURSKÁ
LISTOPADU
ZAHRADA
NÁBŘEŽÍ
Brusnice V I K ÁŘSK Á JIŘSKÁ VALD Š T E J N S K Á KOSÁRKOVO DVOŘÁKOVO NÁBŘEŽÍ JEWISH QUARTER K O U OBECNÍHO DVORA HAŠTALSKÁ R E V O L U Č N Í
JOSEFOV BÍLKOVA Z Í
K E P L E R O V A ČE R N Í N SKÁ KAPUCÍNSKÁ T KANOVNICKÁ Martinický palác VALDŠTEJNSKÉ Malostranská KLÁROV VĚZEŇSKÁ K O Z Í D L O U H Á
N O V Ý S V Ě
Martinic Palace
NÁMĚSTÍ
Rudolfinum
HRADČANSKÉ VALDŠTEJNSKÁ L E T E N S K Á Mánesův most 17. M A S N Á
NÁMĚSTÍ SNĚMOVNÍ TOMÁŠSKÁ ZAHRADA NÁMĚSTÍ JANA
Loreta PALACHA Š I R OK Á M A I S E L O V A R Y B N Á
U KASÁREN
Černínský palác The Loreto KE HRADU VOJANOVY Staroměstská P A Ř Í Ž S K Á DLOUHÁ
Černín Palace LORETÁNSKÉ N E R U D O V A MALOSTRANSKÉ SADY U LU ŽICKÉ H O S E M I N ÁŘE a KR ÁL O D VOR SKÁ
NÁMĚSTÍ
L O R E T Á N S K Á NÁMĚSTÍ JOSEFSKÁ DRAŽICKÉHO a v VA L ENTINSKÁ ŽATECKÁ Náměstí
Ú V O Z
Republiky
POHOŘELEC T R Ž I Š T Ě M O S T E C K Á NÁMĚSTÍ t l KŘIŽOVNICKÁ P L A T N É Ř S K Á U RADNICE CE LE TN Á
NÁMĚSTÍ
MALÉ
Strahovský klášter VRTBOVSKÁ V MARIÁNSKÉ NÁMĚSTÍ ŽELEZNÁ OVOCNÝ
TRH
ZAHRADA
Strahov Monastery Klementinum Masarykovo
Karlův most Clementinum nádraží
SCHÖNBORNSKÁ Charles Bridge K A R L OVA STARÉ MĚSTO
LOBKOVICKÁ ZAHRADA MALTÉZSKÉ OLD TOWN
ZAHRADA NÁMĚSTÍ N A P Ř Í K O P Ě
MALÁ STRANA K A R M E L I T S K Á ANENSKÉ HAVÍŘSKÁ
LITTLE QUA RTE R NÁMĚSTÍ N E K Á Z A N K A
STRAHOVSKÁ LILIOVÁ H U S O V A MICHALSKÁ
ZAHRADA Č er t ov ka KAMPA RYTÍŘSKÁ NA MŮSTKU P A N S K Á
S T R A H O V S K Á
SEMINÁŘSKÁ NÁPRSTKOVA BETLÉMSKÉ Můstek
ZAHRADA Michnův palác S M E T A N O V O N Á B Ř E Ž Í NÁMĚSTÍ V CÍPU R Ú Ž O V Á
Michna Palace KONVIKTSKÁ SKOŘEPKA UHELNÝ PERLOVÁ 28. Ř ÍJNA VÁCLAVSKÉ J I N D Ř I Š S K Á
MALOSTRANSKÉ NÁBŘEŽÍ O S T R O V N Í VLADISLAVOVA V O D I Č K O V A Š T Ě P Á N S K Á VÁCLAVSKÉ WASHINGTONOVA Sta
RÚŽOVÝ BARTOLOMĚJSKÁ NA PERŠTÝNĚ TRH NÁMĚSTÍ
SAD Ú J E Z D Můstek Můstek P O L I T I C K Ý C H V Ě Z Ň Ú
PETŘÍNSKÉ STŘELECKÝ
SADY Ř Í Č N Í OSTROV N Á R O D N Í
třída
V Í T Ě Z N Á most LegiÍ NÁRODNÍ S P Á L E N Á Národni J U N G M A N N O V A OPLETALOVA Hlavní
WILSONOVA
nádraží
NÁMĚSTÍ
Státní opera
O PAT O V I C K Á
Sights at a Glance MASARYKOVO NÁBŘEŽÍ V JIRCHÁŘ ÍCH S P Ã L E N Á LAZARSKÁ N OVÉ MĚSTO Muzeum
NA STRUZE
1 St. Vitus’s Cathedral 9 Church of St. Nicholas PŠTROSSOVA Č E R N Á NEW TOWN Národní muzeum
National Museum
2 Old Royal Palace 0 Wallenstein Palace and Garden KŘEMENCOVA Novoměstská radnice V E S M E ČK ÁCH K R A K O V S K Á MEZIBRANSKÁ
3 St. George’s Basilica q Charles Bridge New Town Hall ČELAKOVSKÉHO
and Convent w Old-New Synagogue Key M Y S L Í K O V A SADY
4 Schwarzenberg Palace e Old Jewish Cemetery Sight / Place of interest Ž I T N Á
5 Golden Lane r Old Town Square Pedestrian street
6 Royal Garden t Old Town Hall City walls
and Belvedere y Municipal House Funicular railway
7 Sternberg Palace u Wenceslas Square
8 Nerudova Street i National Theater
672-673_EW_Europe.indd 672 14/07/16 3:47 pm

PR A GUE  673



Getting Around
Prague’s subway, known as the
metro, is the fastest way of getting
around the city. It has three lines,
A, B, and C, and 61 stations. Line A
covers all the main areas of the city
center. Trams are the city’s oldest
method of public transport. There
are also a number of night trams.
Routes 14, 17, 18, and 22 pass
many major sights on both banks
of the Vltava.
Corner of Old Town Square, with the Church of St. Nicholas
CHOTKOVY
SADY
H R A D B Y V A
M A R I Á N S K É CHOT K O P O D B R U S K O U
J E L E N I F R A N T I Š K U
KRÁLOVSKÁ ZAHRADA N A

ROYAL GARDEN Klášter sv. Anežky
St. Agnes's Convent
J E L E N Í U B R U S N I C E H RADČANY NA O PYŠI P A Ř Í Ž S K Á NÁMĚSTÍ D U Š N Í U MIL OSRDNÝCH H R A DEB N Í
CURIEOVÝCH
LEDEBURSKÁ
LISTOPADU
ZAHRADA
NÁBŘEŽÍ
Brusnice V I K ÁŘSK Á JIŘSKÁ VALD Š T E J N S K Á KOSÁRKOVO DVOŘÁKOVO NÁBŘEŽÍ JEWISH QUARTER K O U OBECNÍHO DVORA HAŠTALSKÁ R E V O L U Č N Í
JOSEFOV BÍLKOVA Z Í
K E P L E R O V A ČE R N Í N SKÁ KAPUCÍNSKÁ T KANOVNICKÁ Martinický palác VALDŠTEJNSKÉ Malostranská KLÁROV VĚZEŇSKÁ K O Z Í D L O U H Á
N O V Ý S V Ě
Martinic Palace
NÁMĚSTÍ
Rudolfinum
HRADČANSKÉ VALDŠTEJNSKÁ L E T E N S K Á Mánesův most 17. M A S N Á
NÁMĚSTÍ SNĚMOVNÍ TOMÁŠSKÁ ZAHRADA NÁMĚSTÍ JANA
Loreta PALACHA Š I R OK Á M A I S E L O V A R Y B N Á
U KASÁREN
Černínský palác The Loreto KE HRADU VOJANOVY Staroměstská P A Ř Í Ž S K Á DLOUHÁ
Černín Palace LORETÁNSKÉ N E R U D O V A MALOSTRANSKÉ SADY U LU ŽICKÉ H O S E M I N ÁŘE a KR ÁL O D VOR SKÁ
NÁMĚSTÍ
L O R E T Á N S K Á NÁMĚSTÍ JOSEFSKÁ DRAŽICKÉHO a v VA L ENTINSKÁ ŽATECKÁ Náměstí
Ú V O Z
Republiky
POHOŘELEC T R Ž I Š T Ě M O S T E C K Á NÁMĚSTÍ l t KŘIŽOVNICKÁ P L A T N É Ř S K Á U RADNICE CELET NÁ
NÁMĚSTÍ
MALÉ
Strahovský klášter VRTBOVSKÁ V MARIÁNSKÉ NÁMĚSTÍ ŽELEZNÁ OVOCNÝ
TRH
ZAHRADA
Strahov Monastery Klementinum Masarykovo
Karlův most Clementinum nádraží
SCHÖNBORNSKÁ Charles Bridge K A R L OVA STARÉ MĚSTO
LOBKOVICKÁ ZAHRADA MALTÉZSKÉ OLD TOWN
ZAHRADA NÁMĚSTÍ N A P Ř Í K O P Ě
MALÁ STRANA K A R M E L I T S K Á ANENSKÉ HAVÍŘSKÁ
LITTLE QUA RTE R NÁMĚSTÍ N E K Á Z A N K A
STRAHOVSKÁ LILIOVÁ H U S O V A MICHALSKÁ
ZAHRADA Č er t ov ka KAMPA RYTÍŘSKÁ NA MŮSTKU P A N S K Á
S T R A H O V S K Á
SEMINÁŘSKÁ NÁPRSTKOVA BETLÉMSKÉ Můstek
ZAHRADA Michnův palác S M E T A N O V O N Á B Ř E Ž Í NÁMĚSTÍ V CÍPU R Ú Ž O V Á
Michna Palace KONVIKTSKÁ SKOŘEPKA UHELNÝ PERLOVÁ 28. Ř ÍJNA VÁCLAVSKÉ J I N D Ř I Š S K Á
MALOSTRANSKÉ NÁBŘEŽÍ MASARYKOVO NÁBŘEŽÍ O S T R O V N Í V JIRCHÁŘ ÍCH Č E R N Á S P Ã L E N Á LAZARSKÁ Novoměstská radnice Š T Ě P Á N S K Á V E S M E ČK ÁCH Muzeum MEZIBRANSKÁ
RÚŽOVÝ BARTOLOMĚJSKÁ NA PERŠTÝNĚ TRH NÁMĚSTÍ
SAD Ú J E Z D Můstek Můstek P O L I T I C K Ý C H V Ě Z Ň Ú
PETŘÍNSKÉ STŘELECKÝ
SADY Ř Í Č N Í OSTROV N Á R O D N Í
třída
V Í T Ě Z N Á most LegiÍ NÁRODNÍ S P Á L E N Á Národni J U N G M A N N O V A OPLETALOVA Hlavní
V O D I Č K O V A
WILSONOVA
nádraží
VLADISLAVOVA
VÁCLAVSKÉ
NÁMĚSTÍ
Státní opera
O PAT O V I C K Á
N OVÉ MĚSTO
NA STRUZE
NEW TOWN
Národní muzeum
K R A K O V S K Á
National Museum
New Town Hall
PŠTROSSOVA
ČELAKOVSKÉHO
KŘEMENCOVA
M Y S L Í K O V A
Ž I T N Á
0 meters SADY 400
0 yards 400
For keys to symbols see back flap
672-673_EW_Europe.indd 673 14/07/16 3:47 pm

674  CENTR AL AND EASTERN EUROPE

Street-by-Street: Prague Castle

The history of Prague begins with the castle, founded by
Prince Bořivoj in the 9th century. Despite periodic fires and
invasions, it has retained churches, chapels, halls, and towers
from every period of its history, from the Gothic splendor of
St. Vitus’s Cathedral to the Renaissance additions of Rudolph
II, the last Habsburg to use the castle as his principal
residence. The courtyards date from 1753–75, when the
whole area was rebuilt in Late Baroque and Neoclassical
styles. The castle became the seat of the Czechoslovak . Old Royal Palace
president in 1918, and the current president of the The uniform exterior of the palace
Czech Republic has an office here. (see p676) conceals many fine
Gothic and Renaissance halls.
Coats of arms cover the walls and
ceiling of the Room of the New
The Powder Tower was Land Rolls.
used in the past for storing
gunpowder and as a bell
foundry. It is now a museum.

To Royal
Garden
K Á
J I Ř S




. St. Vitus’s Cathedral
This stained-glass window by
Alfons Mucha is one of many
20th-century works of art added
to the cathedral.

The Picture Gallery
of Prague Castle, in President’s
the restored stables office
of the castle, has a
good collection of
Renaissance and To Hradčanské
Baroque paintings. náměstí (Castle
Square) and
Schwarzenberg
Palace
Chapel of the Steps down to
Matthias Gate Holy Rood Little Quarter
(1614)
0 meters 60
0 yards 60 South Gardens
Various gardens
have been laid out
along the old
Key ramparts overlooking
the Little Quarter.
Suggested route These statues date
from the 18th century.


For hotels and restaurants see p688 and p689


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Dalibor Tower 1 St. Vitus’s
This grim 15th-century tower Cathedral
takes its name from the first
man imprisoned in it, a young Prague Castle, third courtyard. q
knight sentenced to death for Malostranská. v 22 to Prague Castle
harboring outlawed serfs. (Pražský hrad). Open daily (except
during services). 7 Steeple: Open
daily. Closed in bad weather. &
Golden Lane (see p676)
is lined with picturesque
artisans’ cottages, built in Work began on the city’s
the late 16th century for the most distinctive landmark in
Castle’s guards and gunners. 1344 on the orders of John
of Luxemburg. The Gothic
cathedral replaced an earlier
White Tower Romanesque basilica that stood
on the site of a small rotunda
dating back to the time of
St. Wenceslas (c.925). The
first architect of the new
Gothic structure was the
Frenchman Matthew of
Arras. After his death, the
Swabian Peter Parler took
over. The eastern end of
the cathedral dates from this
Á
K period. The original entrance
J I Ř S was the Golden Portal on the
south side of the building. The
present entrance, the western
Steps down to
Malostranská metro end of the nave, and the façade
with its twin spires were added
in 1873–1929.
The chapels house many
The Lobkowicz Palace saintly relics, the Bohemian
dates from 1570. Some crown jewels, and a number of
original sgraffito has been
preserved on the façade. royal tombs. The tomb of “Good
King” Wenceslas stands in the
St. Wenceslas Chapel, which is
Rosenberg Palace decorated with Gothic frescoes.
Another spectacular memorial
is the huge silver tomb (1736)
St. George’s Convent of St. John Nepomuk, whose
cult was encouraged during
the Counter-Reformation.
. St. George’s Basilica
The vaulted chapel of the
royal Bohemian martyr
St. Ludmilla is decorated
with 16th-century paintings.


The Defenestration of 1618
On May 23, 1618, more than 100 Protestant nobles stormed the
Royal Palace to protest against the succession of the Habsburg
Archduke Ferdinand. The two Catholic Governors, Jaroslav Martinic
and Vilém Slavata, were confronted and thrown out of the eastern
window along with their secretary, Philipp Fabricius. Falling some
15 m (50 ft), they landed in a dung heap. This event signaled the
beginning of the Thirty Years’ War. The Catholics attributed the
survival of the Governors to the intervention of angels.
The spectacularly vaulted chancel of
St. Vitus’s Cathedral



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2 Old Royal Palace
Prague Castle, third courtyard. Tel 22
43 73 102. q Malostranská. v 22.
Open daily. & 7 ∑ hrad.cz
From the time Prague Castle
was first fortified in stone in the
11th century, the Royal Palace
was the seat of a long line of
Bohemian kings.
The building consists of three
different architectural layers.
A Romanesque palace, built
around 1135, forms the
basement of the present
structure. Over the next 200
years, two further palaces were
built above this – the first by The distinctive red facade of St. George’s Basilica
Přemysl Otakar II in 1253, and
the second by Charles IV in 3 St. George’s It is considered to be one of the
1340. On the top floor is the Basilica and best preserved Renaissance
massive Gothic Vladislav Hall, Convent buildings in Prague. Its facades
with its splendid rib vaulting. are decorated with black and
Designed for King Vladislav Prague Castle, Jiřské náměstí. Tel 22 43 white scraffitto dating back to
Jagiello, it was completed in 72 434. q Malostranská. v 22. 1580; inside, preserved ceilings
1502. The Riders’ Staircase, just Open daily. & 7 ∑ hrad.cz have valuable examples of
off the hall, is a flight of steps Renaissance figurative painting.
with a magnificent Gothic rib- St. George’s Basilica was The palace houses the National
vaulted ceiling. It was used founded by Prince Vratislav in Gallery permanent exhibition,
by knights on horseback to 920. Enlarged in 973 and rebuilt Baroque Art in Bohemia. Sculp-
get to jousting contests. following a fire in 1142, it is the ture and paintings from the late
Under Habsburg rule, the best-preserved Romanesque Renaissance and Baroque periods
palace housed government church in Prague. The huge twin include Petr Brandl’s Simeon and
offices, courts, and the old towers and austere interior have the Infant Jesus (1725) and works
Bohemian parliament. The been restored to give an idea of by Matyáš Bernard Braun and
Bohemian Chancellery, the the church’s original appearance. Ferdinand Maximilián Brokof.
former royal offices of the However, the rusty red facade is
Habsburgs, is the site of the a 17th-century Baroque 5 Golden Lane
famous 1618 defenestration addition. Buried in the church
(see p675). In 1619, the Bohemian is St Ludmila, who became q Malostranská. v 22. Open daily.
nobles deposed Emperor Bohemia’s first female Christian & ∑ hrad.cz
Ferdinand II as King of Bohemia, martyr when she was strangled
electing in his place Frederick as she knelt at prayer. Through- Named after the goldsmiths
of the Palatinate. This led to out the Middle Ages, the who lived here in the 17th
the first major battle of the convent and the basilica formed century, this is one of the most
Thirty Years’ War. the heart of the castle complex. picturesque streets in Prague.
The adjacent former The tiny, brightly painted
Benedictine nunnery is the oldest houses that line one side of it
convent building in Bohemia. It were built in the late 1500s for
was founded in 973 by Princess Rudolph II’s castle guards. A
Mlada, sister of Boleslav II. century later, the goldsmiths
moved in. By the 19th century,
4 Schwarzenberg the area had degenerated
Palace into a slum, populated by
Prague’s poor and the criminal
Prague Castle, Hradčanské náměstí 2. community. In the 1950s, the
Tel 23 30 81 713. q Malostranská. v area was restored to something
22. Open daily. & 7 - like its original state, and most
∑ ngprague.cz of the houses were converted
into shops selling books,
Built in the 16th century for the Bohemian glass, and other
Count of Lobcowicz, the noble souvenirs for the tourists who
The Riders’ Staircase leading to the Schwarzenberg family acquired flock here. Golden Lane has
Vladislav Hall, Royal Palace the palace in 1719 by marriage. been home to a number of
For hotels and restaurants see p688 and p689


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PR A GUE  677


well-known writers, including
Franz Kafka (1883–1924), who
stayed at No. 22 for a few months
between 1916 and 1917.
6 Royal Garden
and Belvedere
Prague Castle, Královský Letohrádek.
q Hradčanská, Malostranská. v 22.
Garden: Open May–Oct: daily. 7
Belvedere: Open only for exhibitions.
& 7 ∑ hrad.cz
Prague’s well-kept Royal Garden
was created in 1535 for Artisans’ cottages on Golden Lane, Prague Castle
Ferdinand I. The garden contains
some fine examples of 16th- 7 Sternberg Palace centuries, Dutch and Flemish
century architecture, including Hradčanské náměstí 15. Tel 23 30 90 masterpieces, and Austrian
the Belvedere, a beautiful 570. q Hradčanská, Malostranská. and German art of the 15th to
arcaded summerhouse with v 22 to Brusnice or Prague Castle. 17th centuries. The 19th- and
slender Ionic columns and a Open Tue–Sun. & 8 - 20th-century exhibits, including
blue-green copper roof. Also ∑ ngprague.cz works by Klimt, Picasso, and
known as the Royal Summer Miró, were moved to the
Palace (Královský letohrádek), Franz Josef Sternberg founded Veletržní Palace, northeast
the Italian Renaissance building the Society of Patriotic Friends of the city center, in 1996.
was commissioned in the mid- of the Arts in Bohemia in 1796. The palace boasts many
16th century for Ferdinand’s Fellow noblemen would masterpieces; among the
wife. It is now used as an art lend their finest pictures highlights are Albrecht Dürer’s
gallery. In front of it is the and sculpture to the society, The Feast of the Rosary (1506),
Singing Fountain, which owes which had its headquarters Head of Christ, painted by
its name to the musical sound in the early 18th-century El Greco in the 1590s, and
the water makes as it hits the Sternberg Palace. Since 1949, Rembrandt’s Scholar in his
bronze bowl. the fine Baroque building Study (1634).
Also in the garden is the Ball has been used to house the Visitors can also see art
Game Hall (Míčovna), built in National Gallery’s collection from ancient Greece and Rome,
1569, and used primarily for of European art. a collection of Renaissance
playing a form of real tennis. The palace has an impressive bronzes, as well as the
At the entrance to the garden, array of exhibits, including some fascinating Chinese Cabinet,
the Lion Court was where particularly fine examples of a richly decorated chamber,
Rudolph II had his zoo (now Italian medieval art, Neapolitan which combines the Baroque
a restaurant). works of the 17th and 18th style with Far Eastern motifs.






















The Belvedere, Emperor Ferdinand I’s summer palace in the Royal Garden beside Prague Castle




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Malá Strana

Malá Strana (the Little Quarter) is the part of Prague that
has been least affected by recent history. Hardly any new
building has taken place here since the 18th century, and
the quarter is rich in splendid Baroque palaces and churches,
and old houses with attractive signs. Founded as a town in
1257, the area is built on the slopes below the castle, enjoying
magnificent views across the river to the Old Town. The center
of Malá Strana is Little Quarter Square, dominated by the
impressive Church of St. Nicholas.

Fiddles (No. 12), the Golden
Horseshoe (No. 34), the Green Cupola and bell tower of the Church of St.
Lobster (No. 43), and the White Nicholas
Swan (No. 49).
Nerudova Street also has and Kilian Ignaz Dientzenhofer,
a number of grand Baroque who were responsible for the
buildings, including the greatest examples of Jesuit-
Sign of Jan Neruda’s house, At the Two Thun-Hohenstein Palace (No. 20) influenced Baroque architecture
Suns, 47 Nerudova Street – now the Italian embassy – and in Prague. Neither lived to see
8 Nerudova Street the Morzin Palace (No. 5) – home the completion of the church –
of the Romanian embassy. The
their work was finished in
q Malostranská. v 12, 20, 22. latter has an interesting facade 1761 by Kilian’s son-in-law,
featuring two massive statues Anselmo Lurago.
This narrow picturesque street is of Moors. Among the many works of
named after the 19th-century art inside the church is Franz
writer Jan Neruda, who wrote 9 Church of Palko’s magnificent fresco, The
many short stories set in this part Celebration of the Holy Trinity,
of Prague. He lived in the house St. Nicholas which fills the 50-m- (165-ft-)
known as At the Two Suns (No. Malostranské náměstí. Tel 25 75 34 high dome. A fresco of St. Cecilia,
47) between 1845 and 1857. 215. q Malostranská. v 12, 20, 22. patron saint of music, watches
Before the introduction of Open daily. & ∑ stnicholas.cz over the church’s splendid
house numbers in 1770, the Baroque organ. Built in 1746, it
city’s houses were distinguished Dominating Little Quarter was played by Mozart in 1787.
by signs. Nerudova’s houses Square, at the heart of Malá Another star feature is the ornate
have a splendid selection of Strana, is the Church of St. 18th-century pulpit, lavishly
heraldic beasts and emblems. Nicholas. Begun in 1702, it is adorned with golden cherubs.
Ones to look for in particular are the acknowledged master- The impressive statues of the
the Red Eagle (No. 6), the Three piece of architects Christoph Church Fathers, which stand at
the four corners of the crossing,
are the work of Ignaz Platzer, as
is the statue of St. Nicholas that
graces the high altar.
0 Wallenstein
Palace and Garden
Valdštejnský palác, Valdštejnské
náměstí 4. Tel 25 70 75 707.
q Malostranská. v 12, 18, 20, 22.
State Rooms: Open 10am–5pm
Sat–Sun. Riding schoo:l Open for
exhibitions. 7 Garden: Open
Apr–Oct: daily. ∑ senat.cz
The first large secular building
of the Baroque era in Prague,
this palace was commissioned
by the imperial military
commander Albrecht von
The superbly ornamented Baroque organ in the Church of St. Nicholas Wallenstein (1581–1634).
For hotels and restaurants see p688 and p689


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His victories in the Thirty Years’
War made him vital to Emperor
Ferdinand II. Already showered
with titles, Wallenstein started
to covet the crown of Bohemia.
He began to negotiate
independently with the
enemy, and in 1634 was
killed on the Emperor’s
orders by mercenaries.
Wallenstein’s intention was
to overshadow even Prague
Castle with his vast palace,
built between 1624 and 1630.
The magnificent main hall
has a ceiling fresco of the
commander portrayed as Mars,
riding in a triumphal chariot.
The palace is now used by the
Czech Senate, but the State
Rooms are open to the public.
Dotted with bronze statues
and fountains, the gardens are
laid out as they were when
Wallenstein resided here. The
Grotesquery is an unusual
feature – an imitation of the
walls of a cave, covered in
stalactites. There is also a
fine frescoed pavilion. The old
Riding School is today used for
National Gallery exhibitions. Charles Bridge and the Little Quarter Bridge Tower
it took four carriages abreast. under torture and his body
q Charles Bridge The bridge was commissioned was thrown from the bridge.
q Staroměstská (for Old Town side). by Charles IV in 1357 after the A number of finely worked
v 12, 20, 22 to Malostranské náměstí Judith Bridge was destroyed reliefs depict the martyrdom of
(for Little Quarter side); 17, 18 to by floods. this saint, who was revered by
Staroměstská (for Old Town side). Little The bridge’s original decor- the Jesuits as a rival to Jan Hus.
Quarter Bridge Tower: Open daily. & ation consisted of a simple Between 1683 and the latter
Old Town Bridge Tower: Open daily. & wooden cross. In 1683, a statue half of the 19th century, several
of St. John Nepomuk – the first more statues were erected.
One of the most familiar sights of the many Baroque statues Sculpted by Matthias Braun at
in Prague, the Charles Bridge that today line the bridge – was the age of 26, the statue of St.
(Karlův Most) connects the added. The vicar general Jan Luitgard is regarded as one of
Old Town with the Little Nepomucký was arrested in the most artistically remarkable.
Quarter. Although it is now 1393 by Wenceslas IV for having Another splendid piece of
pedestrianized, at one time displeased the king. He died decoration, the 17th-century
Crucifixion bears the Hebrew
inscription “Holy, Holy, Holy
Lord,” paid for by a Jew as
punishment for blasphemy.
At the Little Quarter end
of the bridge stand two bridge
towers. The shorter of these
is the remains of the Judith
Bridge and dates from the
early 12th century. The taller
pinnacled tower was built
in 1464. It offers a magnificent
view of the city, as does
the late 14th-century
Gothic tower at the Old
The vast 17th-century Wallenstein Palace and its gardens Town end.




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w Old-New Synagogue

Built around 1270, this is the oldest synagogue in Europe, and
one of the earliest Gothic buildings in Prague. The synagogue
has survived fires, the slum clearances of the 19th century,
and many Jewish pogroms. Residents of the Jewish Quarter
have often had to seek refuge within its walls, and today it is
still the religious center for Prague’s Jews. It was originally
called the New Synagogue, until another synagogue was Right-hand Nave
built nearby – this was later destroyed. The glow from the bronze
chandeliers provides light
for worshippers using the
seats lining the walls.








. Jewish Standard
The historic banner of Prague’s Jews is
decorated with a Star of David, within
which is depicted the hat that had to
be worn by Jews in the 14th century.













. Five-rib Vaulting
Two massive octagonal
pillars inside the main hall
support the five-rib vaults.


KEY
1 The cantor’s platform and
its lectern are surrounded by a
wrought-iron Gothic grille.
2 These windows formed part of
the 18th-century extension, built to
allow women a view of the service.
3 Candlestick holder
Entrance to the synagogue
4 14th-century stepped from Červená Street
brick gable
5 The Ark is the holiest place in the Entrance Portal
synagogue and holds the sacred The tympanum above the door in
scrolls of the Torah. The tympanum the south vestibule is carved
above it is decorated with with a vine, which bears 12
13th-century leaf carvings. bunches of grapes, symbolizing
the tribes of Israel.
For hotels and restaurants see p688 and p689


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VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
Practical Information
Pařížská and Červená.
Tel 22 48 00 812.
∑ synagogue.cz
Open 9am–6pm Sun–Fri.
Closed Jewish hols. &
u 9am & 7pm Sat.
Transport
q Staroměstská. v 17, 18.




View across the Old Jewish Cemetery towards the Klausen Synagogue
e Old Jewish Synagogue (1694) stands on
Cemetery the site of a number of small
Jewish schools and prayer
Široká 3 (main entrance). Tel 22 23 17
191, 22 27 49 464. q Staroměstská. houses, known as klausen.
v 17, 18. Open Sun–Fri. & includes Today, it is home to the Jewish
entry to all Jewish sites except Old- Museum, whose exhibits trace
New Synagogue. 7 the history of the Jews in
∑ jewishmuseum.cz Central Europe back to the
Middle Ages. Next to the
Founded in 1478, for over 300 synagogue is the former
years this was the only burial ceremonial hall of the Jewish
ground permitted to Jews. Burial Society, built in 1906.
Because of the lack of space, It now houses a permanent
people had to be buried on exhibition of childrens’
top of each other, up to 12 drawings from the Terezín
layers deep. Today you can see concentration camp.
over 12,000 gravestones, but Also bordering the cemetery,
around 100,000 people are the Pinkas Synagogue was
thought to have been buried founded in 1479, and now
here – the last person, Moses serves as a memorial to all
Beck, in 1787. The most visited the Jewish Czechoslovak
grave in the cemetery is that of citizens who were imprisoned
Rabbi Löw (1520–1609). Visitors at Terezín. Excavations at the
place hundreds of pebbles and synagogue have turned up
wishes on his grave as a mark of fascinating relics of life in the
respect. On the northern edge medieval ghetto, including a
of the cemetery, the Klausen mikva, or ritual bath.
Prague’s Jewish Quarter
In the Middle Ages, Prague’s Jewish
community was confined in an
enclosed ghetto. For centuries, the
Jews suffered from oppressive laws –
in the 16th century, they had to
wear a yellow circle as a mark
of shame. Discrimination was
partially relaxed in 1784 by
Joseph II, and the Jewish Quarter
was named Josefov after him.
In 1850, the area was officially
incorporated as part of Prague.
. Rabbi Löw’s Chair A few years later, the city authorities
A Star of David marks the chair razed the ghetto slums, but many Ten Commandments motif on
of the Chief Rabbi, placed synagogues, the Town Hall, and the the Spanish Synagogue
where the 16th-century scholar, Old Jewish Cemetery were saved.
Rabbi Löw, used to sit.




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The Old and New Towns council, the Town Hall grew in
the course of the next few
The heart of the city is the Old Town (Staré Město) and its centuries, and today consists
central square. In the 11th century, the settlements around the of a row of colorful Gothic
castle spread to the right bank of the Vltava. A marketplace in and Renaissance buildings.
what is now Old Town Square was first mentioned in 1091, The Old Town Hall Tower
is one of the building’s star
and houses and churches quickly sprang up around it. features and dates from 1364.
Founded in 1348 by Charles IV, the New Town (Nové Město) The gallery at the top provides
was mainly inhabited by tradesmen and craftsmen. In the late a magnificent view of the city.
19th century, much of it was demolished and completely Located on the first floor is the
redeveloped, giving it the appearance it has today. 14th-century Oriel Chapel, with
its ornate restored ceiling.
Another famous sight is the
was designed by Kilian Ignaz Astronomical Clock, built by the
Dientzenhofer. Today, it clockmaker Hanuš in 1490. The
houses art exhibitions by mechanism of the clock we see
the National Gallery. today was perfected by Jan
At the northern end of the Táborský between 1552 and
square, the Church of St. 1572. The clock records three
Nicholas stands on the site different kinds of time, Old
of a former church dating from Bohemian time, time as we
the 12th century. The present know it, and so-called
building, completed by Kilian Babylonian time. It also shows
Ignaz Dientzenhofer in 1735, the movement of the sun and
has a dramatic white façade, moon through the 12 signs of
studded with statues by the zodiac. Every time the clock
Antonín Braun. In summer, strikes the hour, mechanical
evening concerts are held here. figures perform above the
A colorful array of arcaded zodiac signs, drawing crowds of
buildings of Romanesque or spectators. The lower section of
Gothic origin, with fascinating the clock consists of the Calendar.
house signs, graces the south
side of the square. Among the
most attractive are the house
Church of Our Lady before Týn in the Old
Town Square called At the Stone Ram and
the Neo-Renaissance Štorch
r Old Town Square House, also known as At the
Stone Madonna.
q Staroměstská, Můstek. v 17, 18. At one end of the square
stands the huge monument
Free of traffic, except for a dedicated to the reformist
handful of horse-drawn Jan Hus, who was burnt at
carriages, and ringed with the stake for heresy in 1415.
historic buildings, Prague’s In addition to historic
enormous Old Town Square buildings, there are also many
(Staroměstské náměstí) ranks shops, as well as restaurants and
among the finest public spaces cafés, whose tables and chairs
of any European city. spill out onto the pavements
Dominating the east side of the square in summer.
of the square is the Church of
Our Lady before Týn, with its t Old Town Hall
magnificent Gothic steeples.
Begun in 1365, from the early Staroměstské náměstí 1. Tel 23 60 02
15th century until 1620 it was the 629. q Staroměstská, Můstek. v 17,
main Hussite church in Prague. 18. Open daily. & 7 8
Also on the east side of the
square, the House at the Stone Standing at the southwest
Bell has been restored to its corner of the Old Town Square,
former appearance as a Gothic the Old Town Hall is one of the
town palace. The splendid most striking buildings in Prague.
18th-century Rococo Kinský Established in 1338 after
Palace, with its pretty pink King John of Luxemburg Astronomical Clock and Calendar on the
and white stucco facade, agreed to set up a town Old Town Hall Tower
For hotels and restaurants see p688 and p689


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This beautifully decorated
revolving dial, designed by
celebrated artist Josef Mánes,
dates from 1866.

y Municipal House
Náměstí Republiky 5. Tel 22 20 02 101.
q Náměstí Republiky. v 5, 8, 24, 26.
Gallery: Open daily. & 8 7 0
∑ obecnidum.cz
Prague’s most prominent Art
Nouveau building occupies the
site of the former Royal Court
palace, the king’s residence
between 1383 and 1484. The
exterior is embellished with
allegorical statuary, and above
the main entrance there is a
mosaic entitled Homage to View across the Vltava River to the National Theater
Prague by Karel Špillar.
Inside is Prague’s principal in front of the National Museum i National Theater
concert venue, the Smetana Hall, was erected in 1912, the work Národní divadlo, Národní třída. Tel 22
which is also used as a ballroom. of the 19th-century sculptor 49 01 448. q Národní třída. v 6, 9,
The interior is decorated with Josef Myslbek. At the foot of 17, 18, 22 to Národní divadlo.
works by leading Czech artists of the pedestal there are smaller Open for performances only or by
the early 20th century, including statues of Czech patron saints. arrangement (22 49 01 506). 7
Alfons Mucha, one of the most Also worth seeing are the Art ∑ narodni-divadlo.cz
successful exponents of the Art Nouveau-style Hotel Europa
Nouveau style. (1906) and the Church of Our The National Theater has always
On October 28, 1918, Prague’s Lady of the Snows. This towering been an important symbol of
Municipal House was the scene Gothic building is only part of a the Czech cultural revival. Work
of the momentous vast church planned in the 14th began on the building in 1868.
proclamation of the new century but never completed. The original Neo-Renaissance
independent state Wenceslas Square has design was by the Czech
of Czechoslovakia. witnessed many important architect Josef Zítek. After it
events in Czech history. In was completely destroyed
u Wenceslas November 1989, by fire – just days before the
Square a protest rally official opening – Josef Schulz
against police
was given the job of rebuilding
q Můstek, Muzeum. brutality took place the theater, and all the best
v 3, 9, 14, 24. here, leading to the Czech artists of the period
Velvet Revolution contributed toward its lavish
Originally a medieval horse and the overthrow decoration. During the late
market, today Wenceslas of Communism. 1970s and early 80s, the theater
Square remains an important underwent restoration work
commercial center, with and the New Stage was built.
shops, hotels, restaurants, The theater’s auditorium has
and clubs. an elaborately painted ceiling
At one end of the square adorned with allegorical figures
is the National Museum. representing the arts. Equally
This grand building, with impressive are the sumptuous
its monumental staircase gold and red stage curtain,
and rich marbled interior, and the ceiling fresco in the
was completed in 1890 theater’s lobby. The fresco is
as a symbol of national the final part of a triptych,
prestige. The museum’s painted by František Ženíšek
collections are devoted in 1878, depicting the Golden
mainly to mineralogy, Age of Czech Art.
archaeology, anthropology, The theater’s vivid sky-blue
and natural history. The roof, covered with stars, is said
huge equestrian statue of Statue of St. Wenceslas flanked by Czech patron saints to symbolize the summit all
St. Wenceslas that stands in St. Wenceslas Square artists should aim for.




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Excursions in Bohemia 3 Kutná Hora

The sights that attract most visitors away from the capital are 70 km (45 miles) east of Prague.
* 21,000 £ @ n Palackého
Bohemia’s picturesque towns and castles, and its famous spa náměstí 377 (327 51 23 78).
resorts. The castle at Karlstein, for example, stands in splendid ∑ kutnahora.cz
isolation above wooded valleys that have changed little since After deposits of silver were
Charles IV hunted here in the 14th century. Further south, found here in the 13th century,
the historic town of Český Krumlov retains a medieval Kutná Hora evolved from a small
atmosphere. Still popular as a therapeutic retreat, the mining community into the
spa town of Karlsbad is located in the leafy Teplá valley second most important town
and offers a welcome respite from Prague’s crowds. in Bohemia after Prague. The
Prague groschen, a silver coin
that was in circulation all over
Europe, was minted at the
Italian Court (Vlašský dvůr),
so-called because Florentine
experts were employed to set
up the mint. Strongly fortified,
the Italian Court was also the
ruler’s seat in the town. In the
late 14th century, a palace was
built, containing reception halls
and the Chapel of St. Wenceslas
and St. Ladislav. They can be
visited by guided tour.
Kutná Hora’s Mining
Museum, housed in a former
fort called the Hrádek, and the
splendid 14th-century Gothic
Karlstein Castle, built by Emperor Charles IV in the 14th century Cathedral of St. Barbara are
also worth visiting.
2 Karlstein Chapel of the Holy Rood in the
Great Tower, where the crown
Karlštejn, 25 km (16 miles) SW of jewels were once kept, has 4 Karlsbad
Prague. Tel 311 68 16 17. £ to
Karlštejn (1.5 km/1 mile from castle). gilded vaulting studded with Karlovy Vary, 140 km (85 miles) west
Open Mar–Nov: Tue–Sun. & 8 glass stars. At one time, the of Prague. * 54,000 k £ @
obligatory. Chapel of the Holy Rood: chapel held 129 panels painted n Lázeňská 14 (355 32 11 76).
Open Jun–Oct: Tue–Sun. & 8 by Master Theodoric (1359–67), ∑ karlovyvary.cz
obligatory and by advance reservation one of the greatest painters of
only. ∑ hradkarlstejn.cz Charles IV’s reign. Some panels Legend has it that Charles IV
have been restored and can discovered one of the sources
Karlstein Castle was founded now be seen in Prague’s of mineral water that would
by Charles IV as a country St. Agnes’s Convent, along make Karlsbad’s fortune when
retreat and a treasury for the with other medieval art. one of his staghounds fell into
imperial crown jewels. The
present structure is largely a
19th-century reconstruction
by Josef Mocker. The original
building work took place
between 1348 and 1365,
supervised by the French
master mason Matthew of Arras,
and after him by Peter Parler.
You can still see the audience
hall and the bedchamber of
Charles IV in the Royal Palace.
The central tower houses
the Church of Our Lady, with
its faded 14th-century wall
paintings. A passage leads to
the Chapel of St. Catherine,
whose walls are adorned with
semi-precious stones. The The three steeples of Kutná Hora’s great Cathedral of St. Barbara
For hotels and restaurants see p688 and p689


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CZECH REPUBLIC  685


Czech Beers
The best-known Czech beer is Pilsner, which is made
by the lager method: top fermented and matured at
low temperatures. The word “Pilsner” (now used as a
generic name for similar lagers brewed all over the
world) derives from Plzeň, a town 88 km (55 miles)
southwest of Prague, where this type of
Czech beer was first brewed in 1842.
beer-bottle cap The brewery that
developed the beer
still makes Plzeňský prazdroj (original
source), better known by its name
Pilsner Urquell, as well as the very
popular Gambrinus. Guided tours of
the brewery include a tasting. České
The spa town of Karlsbad with its Budějovice is Bohemia’s other
19th-century Mill Colonnade famous brewing town – home to
the Czech Republic’s biggest selling
a hot spring. By the end of the export beer, Budweiser Budvar.
16th century, more than 200 spa
buildings had been built in the Selection of Czech beers
town. Today, there are 13 hot
mineral springs. The best-known
is the Vřídlo (Sprudel), which, at very little in the last few hundred complex, the splendidly
72˚C (162˚F), is also the hottest. years, although some buildings restored castle tower can be
Among the town’s historic suffered severe flood damage in climbed for superb views of the
monuments are the 18th- 2002. A maze of narrow cobbled whole town. Other highlights
century Baroque parish church streets radiates out from the of the castle include a Rococo
of Mary Magdalene. The elegant main square (Náměstí Svornosti), chapel, a lavishly decorated
19th-century Mill Colonnade which is lined with elegant ballroom – the Maškarní sál –
(Mlýnská kolonáda) is by Josef arcaded Renaissance buildings and the ornate 18th-century
Zítek, architect of the National including the former town hall. Rococo theater. The castle
Theater (see p683) in Prague. On one of these streets – Horní – gardens provide a tranquil
Karlsbad is also known for its is the magnificent 16th-century spot to sit and relax, while
Karlovy Vary china and Moser sgraffitoed Jesuit College (now a performances of opera and
glass, and for summer concerts hotel) and, opposite, a museum ballet take place in the
and cultural events. explaining the town’s history. gardens’ open-air theater
Schiele Centrum is housed in a in July and August.
Environs 15th-century former brewery. In summer, renting a canoe
Around 60 km (38 miles) The museum has an excellent from one of a number of outlets
southwest of Karlsbad is collection of works by the in the town is a good way to
another of Bohemia’s spa towns, Austrian painter Egon Schiele. enjoy the fine views of Český
Marienbad (Mariánské Lázně). Český Krumlov’s most famous Krumlov from the river.
Here, the cast-iron colonnade, sight is its 13th-century castle –
with frescoes by Josef Vyleťal, is the Krumlovský zámek – in the + Krumlovský zámek
an impressive sight. There are Latrán quarter. In the older, Latrán. Open Apr–Oct: Tue–Sun.
also many pleasant walks in the lower part of the castle & 8
local countryside, especially in
the protected Slavkov Forest.
5 Český Krumlov
180 km (112 miles) south of Prague.
* 14,000 £ @ n náměstí
Svornosti 2 (380 70 46 22).
∑ ckrumlov.info
Of all the Czech Republic’s
medieval towns, Český Krumlov
must rank as the finest. Almost
entirely enclosed by a bend in
the River Vltava, the beautifully
preserved Inner Town (Vnitřni
Město) appears to have changed Český Krumlov’s castle tower rising above the medieval Inner Town




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686  CENTR AL AND EASTERN EUROPE

Practical & Travel Information Facilities for the Disabled
Disabled travelers seeking
The Czech Republic saw a vast increase in tourism following advice on transportation,
the overthrow of Communist rule in 1989. Since then, the accommodations, and sight-
country has responded well to the huge influx of visitors, and seeing tours should contact
facilities such as banks and information centers have the Czech Association of
improved considerably. The best way to explore Prague is Persons with Disabilities,
on foot; if you are traveling to places of interest outside the the Prague Wheelchair
Association, or Accessible
capital, buses and trains are reliable and inexpensive. Prague. Other useful websites
with information on disabled
When to Visit
Republic, and can stay for up to travel on public transportation
The busiest months are August 90 days without needing a visa. are www.dpp.cz/en/barrier-free-
and September, although Prague travel (buses, trams, and metro)
can be very crowded in June and and www.cd.cz/en/vnitrostatni-
at Easter also. The main sights are Safety and Emergencies cestovani/ (trains).
always packed at these times, Violent crime against tourists is
but the crowds lend a carnival rare in the Czech Republic. The Banking and Currency
atmosphere, which can make main problem, especially in
a visit all the more enjoyable. Prague, is petty theft from cars, The Czech unit of currency is
Many sights are closed between hotel rooms, and pockets. At the Czech crown (Kč). Banking
October and April. night, lone women are advised hours are generally 8am to
to avoid Prague’s Wenceslas 5pm Monday to Friday, with
Square, which used to be a some branches closing at
Tourist Information hangout for prostitutes. lunch. Bureaux de change in
Tourist information offices in the It is an unwritten law that you tourist spots are open every
Czech Republic are run by several should have your passport or ID day, and some offer a 24-hour
different agencies, of which the card with you at all times in the service. Although they give
largest is ATIC. Many employ Czech Republic. Although you much better exchange rates
English speakers and offer a are unlikely to be asked to than the banks, their
variety of English-language produce it, having it could save commission charges may be
publications, maps, and guides. a lot of problems. huge, often as high as 12 per
The efficient Prague In case of an emergency, the cent. Traveler’s checks can only
Information Service is the best numbers to call are listed in the be changed in banks. Credit
source of tourist information for directory opposite. cards are becoming more
visitors to the capital. It has widely accepted in the Czech
three offices in the city center, Republic, but never assume that
providing information in several Health Issues you can pay with them.
languages, including English. No inoculations are required
for the Czech Republic. Visitors Communications
should take note that in winter,
Visa Requirements
sulphur dioxide levels in Prague Card-operated public phone
Citizens of the US, EU, Australia, often exceed the World Health booths are found all over the
New Zealand, and countries of Organi zation’s safety levels. Czech Republic. You can buy
the European Free Trade For prescription and non- phonecards (telefonní karta)
Association need a valid prescription medicines, from most tobacconists and
passport to enter the Czech visit a pharmacy (lékárna). newsstands. It is possible to
make international calls from a
public phone, a post office or a
The Climate of the PRAGUE hotel, although the latter option
Czech Republic is usually highly expensive.
Most post offices are open
The Czech Republic enjoys °C/ºF 8am–6pm Monday to Friday,
long, warm days in summer,
the hottest months being 24/75 and on Saturday mornings.
June, July, and August. The 13/55 14/57 16/61 Stamps (známky) are sold at
winter months can get bitterly 3/37 5/41 0/32 most tobacconists and news-
cold; temperatures often drop -5/23 stands, as well as post offices.
below freezing and heavy 5.5 8.5 4 1.5
snowfall is not uncommon. The hrs hrs hrs hrs Flying to the
wettest months are October 73 19 95 60 Czech Republic
and November but frequent mm mm mm mm
light showers can occur in the month Apr Jul Oct Jan Czech Airlines (ČSA) is the
summer months as well. only airline that offers direct
flights from the United States




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CZECH REPUBLIC  687


to Prague. Other carriers, journey time from London to main operators of international
including Delta Air Lines, KLM, Prague is 16.5 hours. Many bus routes to Prague. Within the
and Lufthansa, operate flights international trains arrive at and Czech Republic, long-distance
from the US and Canada to the depart from Hlavní nádraží, the buses are run by Student Agency
Czech Republic, via another city’s biggest and busiest station. and local companies. There is an
European city. The Czech Republic’s state- extensive route network, and
Carriers operating direct run rail company, České Dráhy buses are often a less expensive
scheduled flights daily from the (ČD), operates several types of way of traveling between towns
UK to Prague include British domestic routes. Supercity than the trains. For popular
Airways and Czech Airlines trains (SC) are the fastest trains routes, buy your ticket in
(ČSA). Low-cost easyJet and and you pay a premium to advance from the bus station.
Jet2.com have flights to Prague travel on them. Express trains The main bus terminal in
from several UK airports. (rychlík) stop only at the major Prague is Florenc, which serves
Among a number of airlines towns and cities. The slow trains, all international and long-
flying from Australia and New or osobní, stop at every station. distance domestic routes.
Zealand to Prague are Lufthansa For help with timetables and
and KLM. Flights from advice on fares in Prague, visit
Australasia require a stopover. the local PIS or Information at Traveling by Car
Čedaz runs an inexpensive Hlavní nádraží station. There are several motorways in
and efficient minibus service the Czech Republic, but to travel
from Prague’s Ruzyně airport on them you must buy a special
to the city center. Traveling by Bus highway sticker (dálniční
Traveling by bus to Prague from známka), valid for 10 days, one
other major European cities can month, or a year and available
Rail Travel be slow, but it is significantly at the border or from post offices
Prague is connected by rail to less expensive than rail or air and gas stations.
all the major capitals of Europe, travel. Seats get booked up very Most of the major car rental
although it can be a rather slow quickly, especially in summer, so firms have offices in Prague and
way of getting to the Czech reserve well in advance. Eurolines at Ruzyně airport, but renting is
Republic. For example, the and Student Agency are the relatively expensive.
DIRECTORY
Czech Tourist Embassies and Facilities for the Delta Air Lines
Offices Abroad Consulates Disabled ∑ delta.com
UK Australian Consulate Accessible Prague easyJet
Czech Centre, Klimentská 10, Prague. ∑ accessibleprague. ∑ easyjet.com
116 Long Acre, Tel 22 17 29 260. com
London WC2E 9PA. Jet2.com
Tel 020-7836 3669. Canadian Embassy Czech Association ∑ jet2.com
∑ czechcentres.cz Ve Struhách 2, Prague. of Persons with
Czech Tourism Tel 27 21 01 800. Disabilities KLM
∑ czechtourism.com ∑ canada.cz Karlínské náměstí 12, Tel 23 30 90 933.
Prague.
US UK Embassy Tel 22 23 17 489. Tel 800-618 0104 (US).
321 East 73rd Street, Thunovská 14, Prague. ∑ klm.com
New York, NY 10021. Tel 25 74 02 111. Prague Wheelchair
Tel 646-422 3399. ∑ ukinczechrepublic. Association Lufthansa
∑ new-york.czech fco.gov.uk Benediktská 6, Prague. Tel 23 40 08 234.
centres.cz Tel 22 48 27 210. Tel 1800-645 3880 (US).
US Embassy ∑ pov.cz
Tourist Offices Tržiště 15, Prague. ∑ lufthansa.com
in Prague Tel 25 70 22 000. Airlines Bus Companies
∑ czech.prague.
ATIC British Airways
Tel 603 99 87 11. usembassy.gov Tel 23 90 00 299. Eurolines
∑ aticcr.cz Tel 0844-493 0787 (UK). Tel 73 12 22 111.
Emergency Tel 1-800-AIRWAYS (US).
Prague Information Numbers ∑ britishairways.com Tel 08717-818 177 (UK).
Service ∑ eurolines.co.uk
Tel 22 17 14 714 Ambulance, Fire, Czech Airlines
(walking tours). Police Tel 23 90 07 007. Student Agency
∑ prague.eu Tel 112 (English). ∑ csa.cz ∑ studentagency.cz





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688  CZECH REPUBLIC

Where to Stay

NEW TOWN: Boscolo Price Guide
Prague Prague ||| Prices are based on one night’s stay in
Luxury high season for a standard double room,
LITTLE QUARTER: Senovážné náměstí 13, Praha 1 inclusive of service charges and taxes.
Design Hotel Sax || Tel 22 45 93 111 | under 3000 Kč
Modern Map B3 ∑ prague.boscolohotels.com || 3000 to 6000 Kč
Jánský vršek 328/3, Praha 1 This hotel boasts Italian opulence ||| over 6000 Kč
Tel 25 75 31 268 and impressive spa facilities.
∑ hotelsax.cz OLD TOWN: Paříž |||
Comfortable and charming hotel NEW TOWN: The Mark Luxury Luxury Map F3
decked out in vintage furnishings. Hotel Prague ||| U Obecního domu 1, Praha 1
Luxury Tel 222 195 195
LITTLE QUARTER: Hybernská 12, Praha 1 ∑ hotel-pariz.cz
Domus Henrici || Tel 22 62 26 111 The beautiful rooms and fin-de-
Boutique Map A3 ∑ themark.cz siècle decor at Paříž contribute to
Loretánská 11, Praha 1 Housed in a former Baroque the creation of a luxurious vibe.
Tel 22 05 11 369 palace, the Mark has a beautiful
∑ domus-henrici.cz courtyard garden.
Housed in a historical building
equipped with modern amenities. OLD TOWN: Prague Rest of the Czech
Square Hostel | Republic
NEW TOWN: Anna | Budget
Budget Melantrichova 10, Praha 1 BRNO: Holiday Inn ||
Budečská 17, Praha 2 Tel 22 42 40 859 Map E3 Luxury
Tel 22 25 13 111 ∑ praguesquarehostel.com Křížkovského 20, 603 00
∑ hotelanna.cz Clean hostel with attentive staff in Tel 54 31 22 111
Stay in Art Nouveau rooms at this an excellent location. Free breakfast. ∑ hibrno.cz
hotel with a lovely breakfast The Holiday Inn offers large
room and a quiet location. rooms in warm colors and high
DK Choice standards of service. Located
NEW TOWN: Fusion || OLD TOWN: Josef || near the city’s trade-fair grounds.
Boutique Map F4 Boutique Map E3
Panská 9, Praha 1 Rybná 20, Praha 1 ČESKY KRUMLOV: Leonardo 
Tel 22 62 22 800 Tel 22 17 00 111 Boutique
∑ fusionhotels.com ∑ hoteljosef.com Soukenická 33, 381 01
A quirky hotel with industrial- A beautiful modern hotel, the Tel 38 07 25 911
chic rooms and a rooftop terrace. Josef features lots of white ∑ leonardo.hotely-krumlov.cz
surfaces and lovely, color- Situated in a 16th-century
NEW TOWN: Icon || coordinated rooms, with building, the Leonardo features
Modern interiors designed by Eva Jiřičná. lovely wooden ceilings and
V Jámě 6, Praha 1 Other perks include a truly a Baroque staircase.
Tel 22 16 34 100 outstanding breakfast, a small
∑ iconhotel.eu but well-equipped gym on the KARLSBAD (KARLOVY VARY):
Hip hotel with wonderful rooms, top floor, and multilingual staff. Grandhotel Pupp ||
all-day breakfasts, and efficient Luxury
staff. Spa and lounge bar, too. Mírové náměstí 2, 360 01
OLD TOWN: Tel 35 31 09 111
NEW TOWN: Le Palais || Maximilian || ∑ pupp.cz
Luxury Modern Map E2 The 18th-century Pupp offers
U Zvonařky 1, Praha 2 Haštalská 14, Praha 1 luxurious rooms with mod cons,
Tel 23 46 34 111 Tel 22 53 03 118 and a Neo-Baroque concert hall.
∑ lepalaishotel.cz ∑ maximilianhotel.com
A belle époque hotel with plush, This comfortable establishment KUTNÁ HORA:
bright rooms, attentive staff, and offers optional pets to guests. U Vlašského Dvora |
a great wellness center. The breakfast is superb. Budget
28 října 511, 284 01
Tel 32 75 14 618
∑ vlasskydvur.cz
In a 15th-century building, with
well-appointed rooms that have
views over the Old Town.
OLOMOUC: Arigone |
Boutique
Univerzitní 20, 779 00
Tel 58 52 32 351
∑ arigone.cz
This stylish hotel in the historic
center boasts Romanesque
Step back to the funky 1970s at Design Hotel Sax, Prague stonework and en-suite rooms.

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TR A VELERS ’ NEEDS  689

Where to Eat and Drink

Price Guide
Prices are for a three-course meal for
one, including half a bottle of house
wine, and all extra charges.
| under 500 Kč
|| 500 to 800 Kč
||| over 800 Kč
river views, and excellent Italian
food – pasta dishes, pizzas, and
fabulous desserts – on a boat.
The top deck is a great place
to have a drink.
OLD TOWN: Sansho |||
Fusion
Petrská 25, Praha 1
The rainforest-inspired decor at Lehká Hlava, Prague’s premier vegetarian restaurant Tel 22 23 17 425 Closed Sun & Mon
Quality Asian-influenced fusion
decorated rooms on Kampa cuisine in a casual living-room
Prague Island, on the Vltava river. space. The menu depends on
what is fresh at the local market.
LITTLE QUARTER: LITTLE QUARTER: SaSaZu |||
Café Lounge || Asian OLD TOWN: Století |||
Café Bubenské nábřeží 13, Praha 7 International
Plaská 615/8, Praha 1 Tel 28 40 97 455 Karolíny Světlé 21/320, Praha 1
Tel 25 74 04 020 Classic Indonesian, Thai, and Tel 22 22 20 008
A beautiful café with a secret Vietnamese dishes are prepared Prompt service and delicious
courtyard. The great coffee and with flair and served in Oriental- food is offered at this often
creative menu make this a go-to palace surroundings. There is also missed, though centrally located
place from morning till night. a popular nightclub in the same restaurant. The Czech dishes
building, so stay after dinner for on the menu are creatively
LITTLE QUARTER: a fun night out. named and prepared.
La Terrassa ||
Spanish NEW TOWN:
Janáčkovo nábřeží – Dětský ostrov, Café Louvre || Rest of the Czech
Praha 5 Czech/International Map E2 Republic
Tel 72 51 61 616 Národní třída 22, Praha 1
Enjoy tapas and other Spanish Tel 22 49 30 949 ČESKY KRUMLOV:
fare on a beautifully renovated This Czech institution offers a Pivovar Eggenberg |
boat. Attentive staff and a good good variety of food, including Czech
wine list ensure a stream of an excellent selection of cakes, Latrán 27, 381 01
regular customers. pastries, and coffees. Tel 38 07 11 917
Beer sets the tone at this eatery,
DK Choice NEW TOWN: Nota Bene || located in the cooling rooms of
Czech
a former brewery. It is a good
LITTLE QUARTER: Mikovcova 4, Praha 2 place to enjoy hearty Czech fare
Lehká Hlava | Tel 72 12 99 131 Closed Sun that can be washed down with
Vegetarian Map D4 A rotating beer list and authentic local light and dark beers.
Boršov 2/280, Praha 1 Czech fare make Nota Bene one
Tel 22 22 20 665 of the hottest places around. KARLSBAD (KARLOVY VARY):
One of the best vegetarian Head to the basement beer Lázně 5 ||
restaurants in Prague, with a hall for beer and snacks. Czech/Mediterranean
creative take on its extensive Smetanovy sady 1145/1, 360 01
menu – ranging from Asian to OLD TOWN: Lokál | Tel 60 22 66 088
Mexican to Lebanese. The Thai Czech Map E3 Located in a historic spa building,
red curry with tofu is a real treat, Dlouhá 33, Praha 1 this elegant restaurant offers
and the quesadilla will probably Tel 22 23 16 265 traditional Czech fare as well as
force diners to skip dessert. Hip This old-style pub serves Czech Mediterranean cuisine. Láznĕ 5
ambience and cool interiors. classics and lots of refreshing is justly famous for its steaks.
Pilsner Urquell beer. Modern
lighting and long wooden tables KUTNÁ HORA:
LITTLE QUARTER: create a cozy but cool ambience. Pivnice Dačický ||
Kampa Park ||| Czech
Fusion Map C3 OLD TOWN: Rakova 8, 284 01
Na Kampě 8b, Praha 1 Grosseto Marina ||| Tel 60 34 34 367
Tel 29 68 26 102 Italian Map D3 An Old Bohemian restaurant
The place for modern fusion Alšovo nábřeží, Praha 1 with delicious food and excellent
cuisine with a focus on seafood, Tel 60 54 54 020 beer served by friendly and
served up in extravagantly Enjoy superb service, beautiful helpful staff.
688-689_EW_Europe.indd 689 14/07/16 3:49 pm

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CENTR AL AND EASTERN EUROPE  691


HUNGARY


Uniquely in central Europe, Hungary is peopled by descendants of the Magyars,
a race from central Asia who settled here at the end of the 9th century. In more
recent times, the country has fought against Turkish, German, Austrian, and
Russian occupiers, yet its rich indigenous culture remains intact. In 1989, Hungary
became the first Soviet Bloc country to embrace Western-style democracy.
Hungary has an extremely varied was ruled by the Goths, the Longobards,
landscape, with forests and mountains and the Avars. The ancestors of the
dominating the north and a vast plain modern Hungarians, the Magyars,
covering the rest of the country. The Tisza migrated from the Urals in 896, under
river and its tributaries shape the eastern the leadership of Prince Árpád, whose
regions, while the west has Lake Balaton, dynasty ruled until 1301, when King
one of the largest lakes in Europe. The András III died without leaving an heir.
Danube flows through the heart of the The throne then passed to a series of
country, bisecting the capital, Budapest, foreign kings, including the French
where one-fifth of the population lives. Angevins and the Lithuanian Jagiellos,
Ethnically the country is 92 percent but the country flourished, and during
Magyar, 3 percent Roma, and the rest the reign of Mátyás Corvinus (1458–90), it
divided between Germans, Slovaks, became the greatest monarchy in Middle
Slovens, and others. About one percent Europe. Mátyás’s marriage to Beatrice, a
of the population is of Jewish origin. Neapolitan princess, saw the Renaissance
blossom throughout Hungary, but all was
History soon eclipsed by a series of Turkish
In AD 100, the Romans established the invasions. The Turks won a major victory at
town of Aquincum near modern-day the Battle of Mohács in 1526, then they
Budapest, and ruled the area corresponding returned in 1541 to take Buda, which
roughly to Hungary (then called Pannonia) became the capital of Ottoman Hungary.
for three centuries. The arrival of the Huns To quell the Turkish advance, the Austrians,
in the early 5th century led to the under Ferdinand of Habsburg, occupied
complete withdrawal of the Romans. After western (or “Royal”) Hungary, while the
the death of Attila the Hun in 453, the area central plains stayed under Ottoman






















The Gellért monument in Budapest, dedicated to a martyred 11th-century bishop
The dramatic interior of Dohany Street Great Synagogue in Budapest



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692  CENTR AL AND EASTERN EUROPE


control; the eastern region, including taken by the Russians. The subsequent
Transylvania (now in Romania), became Communist rule was ruthlessly upheld,
a semi-autonomous land, feudally tied most visibly in 1956 when an attempted
to the Turks. revolution was crushed by Soviet tanks.
Christian armies led by the Habsburgs Nevertheless, free elections finally took
fought to recapture Buda, and finally place in 1989, resulting in victory for the
defeated the Turks in 1686. Economic democratic opposition. Since then, the
prosperity came with Austrian rule, but country has invested heavily in tourism,
nationalism was cruelly which is now a major source
suppressed, culminating in of income.
a major uprising in 1848.
After crushing the rebellion, Language and Culture
Emperor Franz Joseph I Modern Hungarian, like
sought to unite the two Finnish, derives from a
nations, and so created language originally spoken
the Dual Monarchy of by the Finno-Ugric tribes of
Austro-Hungary in 1867. the Urals. It differs greatly
Following World War I, from most other European
the Habsburg Empire was languages, although Slavic,
dismantled, and Hungary German, Caucasian, Latin,
lost two-thirds of its territory Mátyás Corvinus, King of Hungary and Turkic words have been
to the “successor states” of (1458–90) incorporated.
Yugoslavia, Czechoslovakia, Traditional peasant culture
and Romania. It was to regain these was all but destroyed in the 20th century,
territories that Hungary backed Germany but folk songs and dances still survive;
in World War II, but in 1945, Budapest was Christmas and Easter are the best times
Krakow
Kiev
Exploring Hungary Zilina
Budapest has a pivotal location at the heart of SL OV AKIA 37 Bodrog UKRAINE
central Europe, and it is also the perfect base Vienna 26 4
for exploring Hungary itself. Szentendre, with Bratislava Miskolc
its Serbian religious art, and Esztergom, where Salgótarján 25 Tokaj 36 Szamos
Hungary’s first Christian king was crowned, are Eger Nyíregyháza
both only a short drive north, while Lake Balaton M1 Esztergom 21 3 M3
10 M3
lies only a little further west. Pécs, a treasure Gyr 11 Szentendre M35
trove of European history, lies to the south, 85 M1 Tatabánya M3 Tiszafüred Debrecen
while Eger and Tokaj stand in the wine- AUSTRIA 84 86 BUDAPEST Tisza 33
producing area to the east; the former, 81 31 32 34
M7
with its castle and Turkish minaret, is one Szombathely 83 Székesfehérvár M5 4
of Hungary’s most popular towns. Rába 8 50 Szolnok 4 Berettyóújfalu Bucharest
Graz 8 42
Veszprém HUNGAR Y 47
Zalaegerszeg 76 84 71 Körö s
Lake Siófok 61 52 Kecskemét ROMANIA
86 Balaton 51 44 44
Sights at a Glance M7 45 Békéscsaba
1 Budapest pp694–9 SLOVENIA 75 74 M6 44
2 Szentendre Ljubljana M7 61 65 Danube 53 5
3 Esztergom Nagykanizsa 61 Kaposvár Kiskunhalas M5
4 Lake Balaton Szekszárd 47
5 Pécs 68 66 55 Szeged 43
6 Eger 0 kilometers 50 Zagreb Pécs 55
7 Tokaj 0 miles 50 6 6 M6
CROATIA 51
SERBIA Timisoara
58
For hotels and restaurants see p704 and p705 Zagreb Belgrade
D ra va
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HUNGAR Y  693


KEY DATES IN HUNGARIAN HISTORY
c.AD 100 Romans establish Aquincum
c.410 Huns overrun the region
896 Magyar tribes arrive
1001 Coronation of István I, Hungary’s first king
1300s Angevin rule begins
1458–90 Reign of Mátyás Corvinus
1526 Turks win the Battle of Mohács
1526–41 Turks conquer Buda on three occasions
1541 The start of Ottoman rule
The Szechenyi Baths in Budapest
1686 Christian troops enter Buda, ending Turkish
rule in Hungary
to witness these, particularly in the 1848 Hungarian Nationalist uprising
countryside. Musically, the country 1867 Compromise with Austria gives Hungary
has always had much to be proud of, independence in internal affairs
including composers Franz Liszt and 1873 Buda and Pest become Budapest
Béla Bartók, while in literature, the 1918 With the break-up of the Austro- Hungarian
Communist years produced some very Empire, Hungary gains independence after nearly
400 years of foreign rule
powerful voices, among them Tibor 1941 Hungary enters World War II
Déry and István Örkény. Otherwise, the 1945 Russian army takes Budapest
country is best known for its cuisine, 1956 Russia suppresses a nationalist uprising
which incorporates a wide range of 1989 Hungary proclaimed a democratic republic
wines and meat-based dishes (such 2003 Hungary becomes a member of EU
as goulash), the latter invariably 2014 Viktor Orban wins a second consecutive term
spiced with paprika, the country’s as prime minister
most famous export.
Krakow
Kiev
Zilina
SL OV AKIA 37 Bodrog UKRAINE
Vienna 26
Bratislava 4
Miskolc
Salgótarján Tokaj
36 Szamos
25
Nyíregyháza
Eger
M1 21 M3
Esztergom 3
10 M3
Gyr 11 M35
85 M1 Szentendre Tiszafüred
M3
AUSTRIA Tatabánya Tisza 33 Debrecen
86 BUDAPEST 32
84
31 34
81
M7
Szombathely 83 M5 4
Rába 8 Székesfehérvár 50 Szolnok 4 Berettyóújfalu Bucharest
Graz 8 42
Veszprém HUNGAR Y 47
Zalaegerszeg 76 84 71 Körö s
Lake Siófok 61 52 Kecskemét ROMANIA
86 Balaton 51 44 44
M7 45 Békéscsaba
SLOVENIA 75 74 M6 44
Ljubljana M7 61 65 Danube 53 5 Key
Nagykanizsa Kiskunhalas M5
61 Kaposvár Highway
Szekszárd 47
55 Major road
66 Szeged
68 43
55 Railroad
Zagreb Pécs 6 M6
CROATIA 6 51 International border
SERBIA Timisoara
58
Zagreb Belgrade For keys to symbols see back flap
D ra va
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694  CENTR AL AND EASTERN EUROPE


1 Budapest

Budapest was founded in 1873 after the unification of
three separate towns, Buda and Óbuda on the west bank
of the Danube and Pest on the east. The city dates largely
from the late 19th and early 20th centuries and is very
much the creation of the nationalist enthusiasm of that
era. All three towns had originally grown up in the second U.
half of the twelfth century and Buda was the seat of VÁGÁNY
Hungary’s rulers from 1247. Turkish rule from 1541 to 1686,
when it was recaptured by the Habsburgs, left little mark, L E H E L U . ALLA TKERTI KÖRÚT
KÓS KÁROLY SÉTÁNY
except for the city’s wonderful bathhouses. Széchenyi
ÚJPESTI R. H E R M I N A Ú T
fürdő
Sights at a Glance Margit PANNÓNIA U. Hősök
tere
1 Royal Palace KÖRÚT LIPTHAY U. híd VÁCI ÚT PODMANICZKY U. DÓZSA GYÖRGY ÚT VÁROSLIGET
H U N G Á R I A K Ö R Ú T
2 Mátyás Church SZENT ISTVÁN KÖRÚT pu. ANDRÁSSY ÚT
Nyugati
Nyugati
3 Gellért Hotel and Bath Complex MARGIT Pályaudvar Bajza
4 Inner City Parish Church SZÉCHENYI R. BALASSI BÁLINT U. Zoltán Kodály Kodály Zoltán AJTÓSI DÜRER SOR
utca
Museum
5 Hungarian National Museum HORVÁT U. FŐ U. HONVÉD U. Emlék Múzeum STEFÁNIA ÚT
6 State Opera TERÉZ KÖRÚT Emlék Múzeum FELSŐ ERDŐSOR VÁROSLIGETI FASOR
Liszt Ferenc
7 St. Stephen’s Basilica CSALOGÁNY U. ALKOTMÁNY U. Franz Liszt Kodály BAJZA U. DAMJANICH U.
körönd
Museum
8 Parliament Széll Batthyány BEM RAKPART BEM RAKPART Vörösmarty u. DEMBINSZKY U. DÓZSA GYÖRGY ÚT THÖKÖLY ÚT
Kálmán tér
tér
9 Museum of Fine Arts VÁRFOK U. VÍZIVÁROS BÁTHORY U. TERÉZVÁROS
Kossuth
0 House of Terror Museum VÉRMEZŐ ÚT Lajos tér BAJCSY-ZSILINSZKY ÚT NAGYMEZŐ U. Oktogon ISTVÁN ÚT
q Vajdahunyad Castle DONÁTI U. Danube NÁDOR U. János u. KIRÁLY U. DOB U. ROTTENBILLER U. NEFELEJCS U.
Arany
VÁR ARANY JÁNOS U. OKTÓBER 6 U. ANDRÁSSY ÚT ERZSÉBET KÖRÚT WESSELÉNYI U. U. THÖKÖLY ÚT
ORSZÁGHÁZ U.
ALKOTÁS U. Deli ATTILA ÚT TÁRNOK U. FŐ U. Bajcsy-Zsilinszky út DOB U. CSÁNYI U. ERZSÉBET- DOHÁNY Keleti
Opera
KIRÁLY U.
pu.
pu.
JÓZSEF
VÁROS
Széchenyi Vörösmarty ATTILA U. KLAUZÁL U.
lánchíd tér WESSELÉNYI U. Blaha Lujza tér
ALAGÚT U. PALOTA ÚT BÉCSI U. Ferenc tér U.
Deák
DOHÁNY
RÁKÓCZI ÚT
VÁCI U.
KÁROLY KÖRÚT
SZABADSAJTÓ ÚT Astoria JÓZSEF KÖRÚT
KRISZTINA KÖRÚT
ATTILA ÚT
BELGRÁD RAKPART
BRÓDY SÁNDOR U.
LÁNCHÍD U.
GROZA PÉTER RAKPART
TABÁN Ferenciek KECSKEMÉTI U. Kálvin
AVAR ÚT
MÉSZÁROS U.
tere
H E G Y A L JA ÚT Szent Gellért Erzsébet BELVÁROS tér
SZERB U.
emlékmü
híd
Gellért
VÁCI U.
Monument
KÖRÚT
SZIRTES U. SZENT GELLÉRT RAKPART Fővam tér VÁMHÁZ ÜLLŐI ÚT
SÁNC ÚT
Citadella Iparmüvészrti
Múseum
K ELENHEGYI ÚT Citadel Museum of
Corvin
Szent Gellért Szabadság Applied Arts negyed
tér híd
MÁNYOKI ÚT. BA RTÓK BÉLA ÚT Danube KÖZRAKTAR U. FERENC KÖRÚT
SOMLÓI ÚT
VILLÁNYI ÚT
Móricz Zsigmond MÛEGYETEM RAKPART
körtér
0 meters 600 IRINYI
Barrel-organist playing in the 0 yards 600 KARINTHY FRIGYES ÚT JÓZSEF ÚT
Castle district of Buda
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BUD APEST  695



Getting Around
Trams are a convenient means of transportation for
tourists, especially the 18, 19, and 61 on the Buda
side and the 2, 4, and 6 in Pest. There are also some
200 bus routes. The four metro lines and the HÉV
suburban rail lines link the center with the suburbs.
U.
VÁGÁNY
L E H E L U . Széchenyi Chain Bridge (Széchenyi lánchíd), the first permanent
ALLA TKERTI KÖRÚT
bridge over the Danube, completed in 1849
ÚJPESTI R. PANNÓNIA U. KÓS KÁROLY SÉTÁNY H E R M I N A Ú T
fürdő
Hősök
KÖRÚT LIPTHAY U. Margit SZENT ISTVÁN KÖRÚT pu. VÁCI ÚT PODMANICZKY U. ANDRÁSSY ÚT tere VÁROSLIGET
híd
H U N G Á R I A K Ö R Ú T
Nyugati
Nyugati
MARGIT SZÉCHENYI R. BALASSI BÁLINT U. HONVÉD U. Pályaudvar Zoltán Kodály Kodály Zoltán AJTÓSI DÜRER SOR
DÓZSA GYÖRGY ÚT
Bajza
utca
VÁROSLIGETI FASOR
Museum
Liszt Ferenc
FŐ U.
HORVÁT U.
Emlék Múzeum Kodály Emlék Múzeum STEFÁNIA ÚT
CSALOGÁNY U. Franz Liszt körönd DAMJANICH U.
FELSŐ ERDŐSOR
TERÉZ KÖRÚT
Széll ALKOTMÁNY U. Museum BAJZA U.
Kálmán tér Batthyány BEM RAKPART BEM RAKPART BÁTHORY U. Vörösmarty u. TERÉZVÁROS DEMBINSZKY U. DÓZSA GYÖRGY ÚT THÖKÖLY ÚT
tér
VÉRMEZŐ ÚT VÍZIVÁROS Danube Lajos tér NÁDOR U. János u. BAJCSY-ZSILINSZKY ÚT NAGYMEZŐ U. Oktogon KIRÁLY U. DOB U. ISTVÁN ÚT
VÁRFOK U.
Kossuth
Arany
DONÁTI U.
VÁR ARANY JÁNOS U. OKTÓBER 6 U. ANDRÁSSY ÚT ERZSÉBET KÖRÚT WESSELÉNYI U. ROTTENBILLER U. NEFELEJCS U. THÖKÖLY ÚT
U.
ORSZÁGHÁZ U.
ALKOTÁS U. Deli ATTILA ÚT TÁRNOK U. FŐ U. Bajcsy-Zsilinszky út DOB U. CSÁNYI U. ERZSÉBET- DOHÁNY Keleti
Opera
KIRÁLY U.
pu.
pu.
JÓZSEF
VÁROS
Széchenyi Vörösmarty ATTILA U. KLAUZÁL U. Key
lánchíd tér WESSELÉNYI U. Blaha Lujza tér
ALAGÚT U. PALOTA ÚT BÉCSI U. Ferenc tér U. Sight / Place of interest
Deák
DOHÁNY
RÁKÓCZI ÚT Pedestrian street
City walls
VÁCI U.
KÁROLY KÖRÚT
SZABADSAJTÓ ÚT Astoria JÓZSEF KÖRÚT
KRISZTINA KÖRÚT
BELGRÁD RAKPART
ATTILA ÚT
BRÓDY SÁNDOR U.
LÁNCHÍD U.
GROZA PÉTER RAKPART
TABÁN Ferenciek KECSKEMÉTI U. Kálvin
AVAR ÚT
MÉSZÁROS U.
tere
H E G Y A L JA ÚT Szent Gellért Erzsébet BELVÁROS tér
SZERB U.
emlékmü
híd
Gellért
VÁCI U.
Monument
KÖRÚT
SZIRTES U. SZENT GELLÉRT RAKPART Fővam tér VÁMHÁZ ÜLLŐI ÚT
SÁNC ÚT
Citadella Iparmüvészrti
Múseum
K ELENHEGYI ÚT Citadel Museum of
Corvin
Szent Gellért Szabadság Applied Arts negyed
tér híd
MÁNYOKI ÚT. BA RTÓK BÉLA ÚT Danube KÖZRAKTAR U. FERENC KÖRÚT
SOMLÓI ÚT
VILLÁNYI ÚT
Móricz Zsigmond MÛEGYETEM RAKPART
körtér
IRINYI
JÓZSEF ÚT
KARINTHY FRIGYES ÚT
Aerial view of Castle Hill and central Budapest
For keys to symbols see back flap
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696  CENTR AL AND EASTERN EUROPE


Buda altarpieces, some Renais-
sance and Baroque art,
In 1247, Béla IV chose Buda, on the Danube’s west bank, and a wonderful
as his capital city. Its position, at 60 m (197 ft) above the selection of 19th-
river, made it a strategic choice. Buda expanded during and 20th-century
Angevin rule, reaching a zenith under Mátyás Corvinus Hungarian works.
Notable early
(1458–90), although further development was hindered works include The
by the Turkish occupation of 1541–1686. The Habsburgs’ Madonna of Bártfa
attempts to recover the city were devastating and (1465–70), and the
by the time of its liberation, the city had been largely folding St. Anne
destroyed. In the 18th and 19th centuries, the Altarpiece (1510–20).
Habsburgs set about rebuilding the palace and the Among the
19th-century works,
old town, adding some magnificent buildings, but look out for the
most had to be rebuilt again after the siege of 1945. historical scenes
by Bertalan Székely
and the landscapes
incorporated into the St. Anne Altarpiece, of Mihály Munkácsy
restored palace that National Gallery (1844–1900), widely
visitors see today. held to be Hungary’s
Various statues, gateways, and greatest artist. The 20th-century
fountains have survived from works by Tivadar Kosztka
the 19th-century palace. In the Csontváry give a unique,
northwest courtyard stands idiosyncratic vision of the world.
the Mátyás Fountain (1904),
depicting Mátyás Corvinus E Budapest History
(1458–90) and his legendary Museum
love, the peasant girl, Ilonka. Royal Palace E Wing, Szent György
In front of the palace’s rebuilt tér 2. Tel (1) 487 8800. @ 16, 16A,
dome stands an equestrian 116. Open Tue–Sun. & 7
statue (1900) of Prince Eugene ∑ btm.hu
of Savoy, victor of the Battle of The city’s history museum
Zenta against the Turks in 1697. (Budapesti Történeti Múzeum),
The rebuilt Royal Palace with a grand Today, the palace houses a also known as the Castle
statue of the heroic Eugene of Savoy series of important national Museum, illustrates the city’s
1 Royal Palace collections, including the evolution from its origins
Széchenyi National Library, under the Romans.
Szinház utca. @ 16, 16A, 116. with over five million books Damage to the palace in
and manuscripts, the National World War II led to chambers
King Béla IV (1235–70) built Gallery, the Budapest History dating from the Middle Ages
a royal castle in Buda, but its Museum, and the Museum of being uncovered in the south
exact location is unknown. Contemporary History. wing. These were recreated in
Around 1400, it was replaced by the basement.
a Gothic palace, subsequently E Hungarian National The ground floor exhibits
remodeled in Renaissance style Gallery cover the period from Roman
by King Mátyás in 1458. Under Royal Palace A-B-C-D Wings, Szent times to the 15th century and
Turkish rule, the palace was György tér 2. Tel (1) 201 90 82. @ 16, include some Gothic statues,
used to stable horses and store 16A, 116. Open Tue–Sun. & 8 unearthed here in 1974. The
gunpowder, leading to its ∑ mng.hu first floor traces the history of
destruction in 1686 during the Established in 1957, the the city from 1686 (the end of
reconquest. A new palace, National Gallery has a superb Turkish rule) to the present.
begun in 1719 by the collection of Hungarian art
Habsburgs, grew in size and from medieval times to the
grandeur under Maria Teresa, 20th century. The permanent
but this too was destroyed in exhibits include a section of
the uprising of 1849 and had sculpture and stonework –
to be rebuilt in the second the Lapidarium. There are also
half of the 19th century. regular temporary exhibitions.
When the Habsburg palace Highlights include a carved
was again razed to the ground stone head of King Béla III, from
in February 1945, remains of the c.1200, religious artifacts
15th-century Gothic palace spanning several centuries, 15th-century majolica floor in the Budapest
were uncovered. These were including many fine Gothic History Museum
For hotels and restaurants see p704 and p705


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BUD APEST  697


finest example of Gothic stone The complex houses an
carving in Hungary. Also fascin­ institute of water therapy.
ating is a Baroque statue of the The baths are separated
Madonna; according to legend, into different areas for men
the original was set into a wall and women. Each has
during the Turkish occu pation. plunge pools, a sauna,
When the church was virtually and a steam bath.
destroyed in 1686, the The facilities have been
Madonna made a mira­ modernized, but the
culous reappear ance, glorious Secession
which the Turks took as interiors remain.
an omen of defeat. There is also an
Mátyás church stands outdoor swimming
in the heart of Buda’s pool with a wave
old town, which machine, installed in
developed to the north of 1927 and still in operation.
West front of the Mátyás Church, with the the Royal Palace from The baths and health
tiled Béla Tower on the left the 1200s onward. spa, with their sun
2 Mátyás Church In front of the Baroque Madonna, terraces, restaurants,
church is Holy Trinity
and cafés, are open
Szentháromság tér 2. Tel (1) 489 07 16. Square, with a Mátyás Church to the public as well
@ 16, 16A, 116. Open daily. Closed memorial column to as to hotel guests.
Sat pm, Sun am. & 8 7 those who died in the plague of
∑ matyas-templom.hu 1691. On the square stands the
Old Town Hall, an elegant Other Museums
This church is mainly a Neo­ Baroque building with an in Budapest
Gothic reconstruction dating onion­domed clock tower.
from 1874–96. Most of the Practical Information
original church (13th–15th 3 Gellért Hotel and Franz Liszt Museum:
centuries) was lost when the Bath Complex Vörösmarty utca 35. Tel (1) 413 04
Turks turned it into their Great 40. Open Mon–Sat. &
∑ lisztmuseum.hu
Mosque in 1541. The building Szent Gellért tér 1. Tel (1) 466 61 66. Museum in a house built in 1877
had to be restored again after q Szent Gellért tér. @ 7, 86. v 18, for Liszt (1811–86).
damage in World War II. The 19, 47, 49. Open daily. & 7 Kodály Memorial Museum:
great rose window has been ∑ gellertbath.hu Andrássy út 87–89. Tel (1) 352
faithfully reproduced in its 7106. Open Wed–Sun. &
original Gothic style. The earliest reference to the ∑ kodaly-inst.hu
The tombs of King Béla III presence of healing waters at The house in which the
(13th century) and his wife can this site is found in the 13th composer Kodály (1882–1967)
be seen in the Trinity Chapel, century. In the later Middle Ages, lived and worked.
while the Mary Portal (near the a hos pital stood here and then, Museum of Applied Arts:
main altar) is considered the during the Turkish occupation, Üllői út 33–37. Tel (1) 456 51 07.
baths were built. The area Open Tue–Sun. & 7
takes its name from Bishop ∑ imm.hu
Gellért, whose monument Fine collection of decorative arts,
on the hill is visible from especially Art Nouveau artifacts.
many parts of the city. He Ludwig Museum – Museum of
was supposedly martyred Contemporary Art:
Komor Marcell utca 1.
here in 1046 by a group Tel (1) 555 34 44.
opposed to the intro­ Open Tue–Sun. & 7
duction of Christianity. From ∑ ludwigmuseum.hu
the top of the hill, one can A contemporary art museum with
admire a beautiful view of works by Warhol and Hockney.
the whole of Budapest.
The Gellért Hotel, with Transport
its famous spa, was built Franz Liszt Museum:
q Vörösmarty utca.
between 1912 and 1918 in Kodály Memorial Museum:
the Secession style, at the q Kodály körönd
foot of the hill. It boasts Museum of Applied Arts:
elaborate mosaics, stained­ q Corvin­negyed.
glass windows, statues, and Ludwig Museum – Museum of
fanciful balconies. Its Contemporary Art:
eastern­style towers and £ Csepeli HÉV. v 1, 2.
The men’s section at the Gellért Baths turrets offer superb views.



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698  CENTR AL AND EASTERN EUROPE


Pest
At the end of the 17th century, much of the walled city
of Pest, on the east bank of the Danube, was in ruins and
few residents remained. Gradually, new residential districts
began to be developed, extending beyond the medieval
walls, and people started to return.
After a flood in 1838, which destroyed most of the rural
dwellings in the areas around Pest, redevelopment schemes
introduced grand houses and apartment blocks. The area
of Városliget (City Park), once an expanse of marshland,
was also developed in the 19th century.
The first bridge linking Pest and Buda was built in 1766.
The two cities were united as Budapest in 1873.
5 Hungarian
National Museum
Múzeum körút 14–16. Tel (1) 338 21 Lavish interior of the 19th-century State
22. Open Tue–Sun. q Kálvin tér, Opera House
Astoria. @ 7, 9. v 47, 49.
& 8 ∑ hnm.hu 6 State Opera
Andrássy út 22. Tel (1) 332 81 97.
The Hungarian National q Opera. Open daily. & 8 3pm &
Museum was founded in 1802, 4pm obligatory. 7 = ∑ opera.hu
when Count Ferenc Széchényi
gave his personal collection to The State Opera (Magyar Állami
the nation. It is housed in an Operaház), opened in 1884, was
impressive Neoclassical edifice the life’s work of architect Miklós
The predominantly Baroque nave of the (1837–47). Ybl. The facade expresses musical
Inner City Parish Church In 1848, on the steps of the themes, with statues of two of
museum, poet Sándor Petőfi Hungary’s most prominent
4 Inner City Parish first read his National Song, composers, Ferenc Erkel and
Church which sparked the uprising Franz Liszt. The opulence of
against Habsburg rule. A
the foyer, with its chandeliers,
Március 15 tér 2. Tel (1) 318 3108. re-enactment is staged each murals, and vaulted ceiling, is
q Ferenciek tere. Open daily. year on March 15. echoed in the grandeur of the
The museum’s eclectic sweeping main staircase and
During the reign of István I exhibits span the 11th century of the three-story auditorium.
(AD 1001–38), a small church to the present day. Items on
stood on this site. St. Gellért display include an 18th-century 7 St. Stephen’s
was buried here after his campaign chest, decorative
martyrdom in 1046. weapons of Transylvanian princes, Basilica
Work began on the Inner and a printing press used to print Szent István tér 1. Tel (1) 311 08 39.
City Parish Church (Belvárosi nationalist propaganda in 1848. q Deák Ferenc tér. Treasury: Open
Plébánia templom), adding to The museum is home to the daily. & 7 5 daily. ∑ bazilika.biz
the existing building, in the 12th Coronation Mantle donated by
century. It is the oldest building St. Stephen in 1031. It is made This Neoclassical church,
in Pest. In the 14th century, it of Byzantine silks and is one of dedicated to St. Stephen,
was remodeled in Gothic style, the oldest and best-preserved or István, Hungary’s first
and later used as a mosque by textile masterpieces in Europe. Christian king (1001–38), was
the Turks. After the fire of 1723, built in 1851–1905
it was partly rebuilt in the on a Greek cross
Baroque style. floor plan. The
On the south side of the church church received
is a Renaissance tabernacle the title Basilica
bearing the Crest of Pest, created Minor in 1938, the
in the 16th century. Close to 900th anniversary
the main altar is a reminder of of the king’s death.
Turkish occupation: a mihrab, On the main altar is
or prayer niche, indicating the a marble statue of
direction of Mecca. Baroque campaign chest in the National Museum the saint; scenes
For hotels and restaurants see p704 and p705


698-699_EW_Europe.indd 698 14/07/16 10:25 am