(DK Eyewitness) Travel Guide - Europe

LISBON  349



. Cloister VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
João de Castilho’s pure
Manueline creation Practical Information
was completed in Praça do Império. Tel 213-620 034.
1544. Delicate tracery Open 10am–6pm (6:30pm
and richly carved May–Sep) Tue–Sun (last adm:
images decorate the 30 mins before closing).
arches and balustrades. Closed Jan 1, Easter Sun, May 1,
Jun 13, Dec 25. & (1st Sun of
month). 7 cloister.
∑ mosteirojeronimos.pt
Transport
@ 714, 727, 728, 729, 751. v 15.
Nave
The spectacular
vaulting in the
church of Santa
Maria is held
aloft by slender
octagonal pillars.
These rise like
palm trees to the
roof creating a
feeling of space
and harmony.






























. South Portal
The strict geometrical
architecture of the portal
is almost obscured by the
exuberant decoration.
João de Castilho unites Tomb of King Sebastião
religious themes, such as The tomb of the “longed for” Dom
this image of St. Jerome, Sebastião stands empty. The young
with the secular, exalting king never returned from battle in
the kings of Portugal. 1578 (see p338).




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3 Sintra + Castelo dos Mouros
Estrada da Pena, 5 km (3 miles) S. Tel
* 25,000. £ @ n Praça da 219-237 300. @ 434 or taxi from Sintra.
Républica 23 (219-231 157). ( 2nd Open daily. Closed Jan 1, Dec 25.
and 4th Sun of month in São Pedro.
_ Sintra Festival (Jun–Jul). P Palácio da Pena
Estrada da Pena, 5 km (3 miles) S.
Sintra’s setting among wooded Tel 219-237 300. @ 434 or taxi
ravines and fresh-water springs from Sintra. Open daily.
made it a favorite summer Closed Jan 1, Dec 25. &
retreat for the kings of Portugal, ∑ parquesdesintra.pt
who built the fabulous
Beach at Estoril, east of Cascais Palácio Nacional de Sintra 4 Tomar
(see pp352–3) here.
2 Cascais Designated a UNESCO World * 43,000. £ @ n Avda Dr.
Heritage site in 1995, the town Cândido Madureira (249-329 823).
* 33,000. £ @ n Largo da
Cidade de Vitória (214-668 167). draws thousands of visitors, yet ( Fri. _ Festa dos Tabuleiros (Jul,
( first and third Sundays in month. there are many tranquil walks every 4 years, next one will be 2019).
in the surrounding hills.
A harbor since prehistoric times, Present-day Sintra is a maze Founded in 1157 by Gualdim
Cascais became a fashionable of winding roads, and exploring Pais, the first Grand Master
resort in the 1870s, when the town on foot involves much of the Order of the Templars in
Luís I’s summer palace was walking and climbing; for a Portugal, Tomar is dominated
sited here. Today, it is a bustling more leisurely tour, by the castle containing
cosmopolitan resort, with take a horse-and the Convento
many upscale stores in the carriage ride. The de Cristo. It was
pedestrian streets of the old Miradouro da Vigia begun in 1162, built
town and a new marina in São Pedro offers on land given to the
complex. Fishing is still an impressive views, as Templars for services
important activity, and the does the cozy Casa in battle, and
day’s catch is auctioned near de Sapa café, where preserves many
the harbor in the afternoon. you can sample traces of its founders
queijadas, cheese and the inheritors of
Environs tarts spiced their mantle, the
Along the coast, 3 km (2 miles) with cinnamon. Order of Christ. The
to the east, the resort of Estoril High above the nucleus of the castle
has been home to exiled town is the Castelo is the 12th-century
European royalty. It has retained dos Mouros, an Charola, the Templars’
its sense of place with grand 8th-century Moorish Manueline window at octagonal oratory. In
villas and hotels lining the coast. castle. On a nearby Tomar’s monastery 1356, Tomar became
Guincho, 10 km (6 miles) west hilltop stands the the headquarters of
of Cascais, has a magnificent Palácio da Pena, built in the the Order of Christ.
sandy beach. Its Atlantic 19th century for Ferdinand, King Cloisters were built in the
breakers make it popular with Consort of Maria II, in a bizarre time of Henry the Navigator,
surfers. Further north is Cabo medley of architectural styles. but it was in the reigns of
da Roca, the most westerly A magnificent park surrounds Manuel I (1495–1521) and his
point of mainland Europe. the fairy-tale castle. successor, João III (1521–57),
that the greatest changes were
made, with the addition of the
Manueline church and
Renaissance cloisters. The
church window (c.1510),
commissioned by Manuel I,
is probably the best-known
single example of the
Manueline style of architecture.
Other fascinating features
include the Terrace of Wax,
where honeycombs were left
to dry, and the “bread” cloister,
where loaves were handed
out to the poor.
The town of Tomar is the
site of the curious Festa dos
Palácio da Pena in Sintra, the hilltop retreat of the last kings of Portugal Tabuleiros, in which young girls
For hotels and restaurants see p362 and p363


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carry towering structures made the Moorish stronghold of
of 30 loaves of bread on their Santarém. To commemorate the
heads. They parade through the victory, he gave land and
main square, Praça da República. money to build a church to the
The square’s focal point is the Cistercians. Completed in 1223,
15th-century Gothic church of the church is a beautiful
São João Baptista. Tomar is also building of austere simplicity.
home to one of Portugal’s oldest Portugal’s rulers continued to
synagogues, now the Museu endow the monastery, notably
Luso-Hebraico de Abraham King Dinis (1279–1325), who
Zacuto, a Jewish museum. added the main cloister, known
as the Cloister of Silence. In the
R Convento de Cristo Sala dos Reis, 18th-century tiles
Tel 249-313 481. Open daily. Closed depict the founding of the
Jan 1, Easter, May 1, Dec 25. & abbey, and statues of Portuguese
kings adorn the walls.
Among those buried here are
the tragic lovers King Pedro
(1357–67) and his murdered
mistress, Inês de Castro (d.1355),
whose tombs face each other Manueline portal leading to the Unfinished
across the transept of the abbey Chapels at Batalha
church. Inês’ death was ordered
by Pedro’s father, Afonso IV UNESCO World Heritage site. The
(1325–57). After Afonso’s death, pale limestone monastery was
Pedro had two of Inês’ murderers built to celebrate João I’s historic
killed brutally. He then had her victory at Aljubarrota in 1385.
body exhumed and reburied. Today, the abbey still has military
One of Alcobaça’s most popular significance: two unknown
The Convento de Cristo, Tomar features is the vast kitchen. Here soldiers from World War I lie
whole oxen could be roasted in the chapter house. João I,
on a spit inside the fireplace his English wife, Philippa of
5 Alcobaça and a specially diverted stream Lancaster, and their son, Henry
Praça 25 de Abril, Alcobaça. Tel 262- provided a constant water supply. the Navigator, are also buried
505 120. @ from Lisbon or Coimbra. here, in the Founder’s Chapel.
Open daily. Closed Jan 1, Easter, 6 Batalha The abbey was begun in 1388
May 1, Aug 20, Dec 25. & and work continued for the next
∑ mosteiroalcobaca.pt Mosteiro de Santa Maria da Vitória, two centuries. King Duarte,
Batalha. Tel 244-765 497. @ from João’s son, began an octagonal
The Mosteiro de Santa Maria de Lisbon, Leiria, Porto de Mós & Fátima. mausoleum for the royal house
Alcobaça is Portugal’s largest Open daily. Closed Jan 1, Easter Sun, of Avis. The project was taken
church and a UNESCO World May 1, Dec 25. & (1st Sun in month). up again, but then abandoned
Heritage site. Founded in 1153, by Manuel I. It is now known as
the abbey is closely linked to the The Dominican Abbey of Santa the Unfinished Chapels. Much
arrival of the Cistercian order in Maria da Vitória at Batalha is a of the decoration of the abbey
Portugal in 1138, as well as to the masterpiece of Portuguese is in the Manueline style.
birth of the nation. In March 1147, Gothic architecture and a
Afonso Henriques conquered















The magnificent Gothic tomb of Pedro I in the transept of the monastery church at Alcobaça




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Palácio Nacional
de Sintra

At the heart of the old town of Sintra (Sintra Vila),
a pair of unusual conical chimneys rises high
above the Royal Palace. The main part of the
palace, including the central block with its plain
Gothic facade and the large kitchens beneath the . Sala dos Brasões
chimneys, was built by João I in the late 14th The domed ceiling of this majestic room is
century, on a site once occupied by the Moorish decorated with stags holding the coats of
arms (brasões) of 72 noble Portuguese
rulers. The Paço Real, as it is also known, became families. The lower walls are
the favorite summer retreat for the court and lined with 18th-century
continued as a residence for Portuguese royalty Delft-like tiled
until 1910. Additions to the building by the panels.
wealthy Manuel I in the early 16th century,
echo the Moorish style. Gradual rebuilding
of the palace has resulted in a fascinating
amalgamation of various different styles.

















. Sala das Pegas
The 15th-century painted ceiling
features 136 magpies (pegas) holding
ribbons with King João I’s motto,
“Por bem” (In honour), and roses
to represent Queen Filipa’s House
of Lancaster.






Azulejos – Painted Ceramic Tiles
The Palácio Nacional de Sintra contains azulejos from the 16th–18th
centuries, many painted with Moorish-influenced designs. In the
early 16th century, tiles were produced by compartmental
techniques, using raised and depressed areas to prevent the tin-glaze
colors from running. The maiolica technique appeared in the mid-
16th century. This allowed artists to paint directly onto prepared flat
tiles using several colors, as these did not run in the firing process.
By the 18th century, no other European country was producing as
many decorative tiles as Portugal, and there are many examples
Spanish-made, Moorish-style tiles from the of 18th-century blue-and-white azulejos in the palace at Sintra,
palace chapel (1510) notably in the Sala dos Brasões.

For hotels and restaurants see p362 and p363


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VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
Practical Information
Largo Rainha Dona Amélia.
Tel 219-106 840. Open Apr 1–
Oct 25: 9:30am–7pm daily;
Oct 26–Mar 31: 9:30am–6pm
daily (last adm: 30 mins before
closing). Closed Jan 1, Dec 25.
8 &


. Sala dos Cisnes
The magnificent ceiling of the former banqueting
hall, painted in the 16th century, is divided into
octagonal panels decorated with swans (cisnes).










Chapel
Symmetrical Moorish patterns decorate
the original 15th-century chestnut
and oak ceiling and the mosaic floor
of the private chapel.















Entrance

KEY
1 Dom Sebastião’s bedroom 5 The Sala dos Árabes is
decorated with fine azulejos.
2 Jardim da Preta, a beautiful
walled garden 6 The kitchens, beneath the huge
conical chimneys, have spits and
3 The Sala das Galés (galleons) utensils once used for preparing
features a ceiling painted with ships royal banquets.
and galleons in honour of Portugal’s 7 Manuel I added the ajimene
maritime heritage. windows, a distinctive Moorish
Sala das Sereias design with a slender column
Intricate Arabesque designs 4 The Torre dos Brasões has dividing two arches.
on 16th-century tiles frame dovecotes below the cornice 8 Sala dos Archeiros, the
the door of the Room of decorated with nautical rope. entrance hall
the Sirens.




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300,000 books. Nearby King Dinis (1279–1325), and
is the similarly ornate Inês de Castro, stabbed to death
Capela de São Miguel. here in 1355 (see p351). Nearby
Each May, at the end of is the Portugal dos Pequenitos
the academic year, the theme park.
Queima das Fitas takes
place, at which students P University
hold a ceremonial Largo da Porta Férrea. Tel 239-242
burning of their faculty 744. Open daily. Closed Dec 24 & 25.
ribbons, a tradition that & 7 Library only. ∑ visit.uc.pt
dates back 700 years. E Museu Nacional Machado
Another fascinating de Castro
site is the Museu Largo Dr. José Rodrigues. Tel 239-
Nacional Machado de 853 070. Open Tue pm–Sun. &
Castro, which holds Portugal dos Pequenitos
some of Portugal’s finest Rossio de Santa Clara. Tel 239-801
15th- to 20th-century 170. Open daily. Closed Dec 25.
paintings and sculpture & 7
set among the elegant
16th-century loggias and Environs
courtyards of the former Buçaco National Forest, 16 km
bishops’ palace. (10 miles) north of Coimbra, was
18th-century library of Coimbra University After visiting this area once the retreat of Carmelite
(the “upper town”), head monks. Part woodland and part
7 Coimbra to the “lower town.” Largo arboretum, it is dotted with
da Portagem is a useful chapels and fountains. It
* 144,000. £ @ n Edifício da
Biblioteca Geral da Universidade de starting point, and river trips also houses the Bussaco
Coimbra (239-242 745); Largo da depart from nearby. In the Palace Hotel, built in
Portagem (239-488 120). ( Mon–Sat. Praça do Comércio, Neo-Manueline style as a
_ Queima das Fitas (early May). alongside coffee royal hunting lodge in
shops and bars, is 1907. Buçaco was also
Afonso Henriques chose the restored the site of a crucial battle
Coimbra as his capital in 1139, 12th-century church of (1810) in the Peninsular
an honor it retained until 1256. São Tiago. North of War. The Roman town
Today, the city on the Mondego this is Santa Cruz, of Conímbriga lay
is famous as the home of founded in 1131, south of modern
Portugal’s oldest university. where Portugal’s first Coimbra. Portugal’s
Most sights are within walking two kings are buried. largest Roman site, it
distance of each other, so In the southeast of Student, May has villas with fine
Coimbra is best explored on the city is the Jardim celebrations floor mosaics, and an
foot, despite the steep hill on Botânico. The gardens, excellent museum.
which it is built. which are Portugal’s largest,
Coimbra’s two cathedrals, the were created in 1772 and T Conímbriga
Sé Velha (“old”) and Sé Nova house 1,200 plant species. 2 km (1 mile) S of Condeixa-a-Nova.
(“new”), lie in the shadow of the On the opposite bank of the @ from Coimbra. Site: Open daily.
hilltop University. The Sé Velha, Mondego are the two convents Closed Jan 1, Easter Sun, May 1, Jul
begun in 1064, is seen as the of Santa Clara; these have ties 24, Dec 25. Museum: Tel 239-941 177.
finest Romanesque building in with Santa Isabel, the widow of Open daily. & 7 museum.
Portugal. The Sé Nova was
founded in 1598 by the Jesuits.
The University, a short walk
away, was founded in 1290
by King Dinis. Originally its
location alternated between
Lisbon and Coimbra, but it was
finally installed in Coimbra’s
royal palace in 1537. Its oldest
buildings are grouped around
the Pátio das Escolas. The
belltower (1733) can be seen
from all over the city. The
Library was a gift from João V
(1706–50). Its rooms, of gilt and
exotic wood, are lined with The Bussaco Palace Hotel, in its enchanting woodland setting
For hotels and restaurants see p362 and p363


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The Douro River and old city of Oporto, with the Ponte de Dom Luís I and modern metro line in the foreground
8 Oporto in 1842. Its highlight is the The oldest of the five bridges
Arabian Room decorated in spanning the Douro are the
* 245,000. k 10 km (6 miles) N.
£ @ n Rua Clube dos Fenianos 25 the style of the Alhambra. Dona Maria Pia railroad bridge
(223-393 472); Terreiro de Sé (223-325 Close by is the 14th-century (1877), designed by Gustave
174). _ São João do Porto (Jun São Francisco church. Its Eiffel, and the two-tiered Ponte
23–24). ∑ portoturismo.pt interior is richly covered in de Dom Luís I (1886), by one
carved and gilded wood. of Eiffel’s assistants.
Ever since the Romans built a fort In the Cordoaria district, west Across the river is the town
here, at the mouth of the Douro, of the Sé, stands the 18th- of Vila Nova de Gaia, the
Oporto (Porto in Portuguese) century Igreja dos Clérigos. center of port production,
has prospered from commerce. The church tower, at 75 m housing the lodges (armazéns)
Today it is Portugal’s second city (246 ft), offers superb views. of over 50 companies. Many
and a thriving industrial center. Situated in the lovely offer guided tours.
The commercial center of Serralves park, the Fundação
the city and the Baixa (“lower”) de Serralves is dedicated to E Fundação de Serralves
district attract fashionable contemporary art. It presents Rua Dom João de Castro 210. Tel 226-
shoppers. Also in the Baixa is temporary exhibitions in the 156 500. Open 10am–6pm Tue–Fri (to
the colorful Bolhão market. Art Deco Casa de Serralves, and 7pm in summer), 10am–7pm Sat, Sun,
Most of the tourist sights, its art collection, from the 1960s & public hols (to 8pm in summer).
however, are to be found in to the present, in the Modernist Closed Jan 1, Dec 25. & (free 10am–
the older riverside quarters. Museu de Arte Contemporânea, 1pm Sun). 7 - = ∑ serralves.pt
High above the river, on designed by Alvaro Siza Vieira.
Penaventosa Hill, stands
Oporto’s cathedral, or Sé,
originally a fortress church. The Story of Port
A noteworthy 13th-century
feature is the rose window, Port comes only from a demarcated
while the upper level of the region of the upper Douro valley. Its
“discovery” dates from the 17th century,
beautiful 14th-century cloister when British merchants added brandy
affords splendid views. to Douro wine to stop it turning sour
Nearby are the Renaissance in transit. Over the years, methods of
church of Santa Clara, and São maturing and blending were refined
Bento Station, completed in and continue today in the port lodges
1916, decorated with of Vila Nova de Gaia. Much of the trade
spectacular azulejo panels. is still in British control.
Below the Sé is the hillside A classic after-dinner drink, port
Barredo quarter, seemingly is rich and usually full-bodied. The
unchanged since medieval tawnies are lighter in color than ruby
days. This leads down to the or vintage, but can be more complex.
riverside quarter, the Ribeira, All ports are blended from several
its houses decorated with tiled wines, selected from scores of samples. Tiled panel of a barco rabelo on
or pastel-painted facades. White port, unlike the other styles, is the Douro
The district has been restored drunk chilled as an aperitif.
and is now a thriving tourist Traditionally, the wine was shipped
down the Douro from the wine-growing estates (quintas) to the port
center with restaurants and clubs. lodges on narrow sailing barges called barcos rabelos. Some of these
Sights close to the river can still be seen moored along the quay at Vila Nova de Gaia.
include the Palácio da Bolsa,
the city’s stock exchange, built



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Southern Portugal

Southern Portugal encompasses the Alentejo and the
Algarve, which are separated by ranges of hills. The Alentejo,
nearly one-third of Portugal, stretches south from the Tagus.
It is typified by vast rolling plains of olive trees, cork oaks, or
wheat, as well as whitewashed villages, castles, and a sense of
space and tranquility. The Algarve is very different from the
rest of Portugal in climate, culture, and scenery.
Its stunning coastline and year-round
mild weather make it a popular Renaissance fountain in Évora’s main
square, Praça do Giraldo
vacation resort.
0 Faro
Roman walls stands the * 55,000. k £ @ n Rua da
University, founded by the Misericórdia 8 (289-803 604). ( daily.
Jesuits in 1559. It was closed in _ Dia da Cidade (Sep 7).
1759 by the Marquês de Pombal
(see p345). The building, with its Faro has been the capital of
graceful cloister and notable the Algarve since 1756. It was
azulejos, forms part of the damaged by the 1755 earth-
present-day university. quake and, although some parts
Évora has more than 20 of the ancient city walls remain,
Carved figures of the Apostles on the portal churches and monasteries, most of the buildings date from
of the Sé, Évora including the 15th-century the 18th or 19th centuries.
São Francisco. The church’s The old city is easy to
9 Évora gruesome 17th-century Capela explore on foot. At its heart
dos Ossos was created from the is the Largo da Sé, lined with
* 55,000. £ @ n Praça do
Giraldo (266-777 071). ( Sat & bones of 5,000 monks. orange trees and flanked by
2nd Tue of month. _ Festa de Northwest of the city stands the 18th-century bishops’
São João (Jun). the remaining 9 km (5 miles) of palace, the Paço Episcopal,
Évora’s aqueduct, the Aqueduto which is still in use today.
Rising dramatically out of the da Água de Prata, (1531–37), The Sé itself is a mixture of
Alentejo plain, the enchanting which was damaged in the Baroque and Renaissance styles
city of Évora is set in Roman, 17th century, during the War. and has a fine 18th-century
medieval, and 17th-century organ. Next to the Sé is the
walls. In 1986, UNESCO declared E Museu de Évora Museu Municipal, which
it a World Heritage site. Largo do Conde de Vila Flor. contains Roman, medieval, and
The fortresslike cathedral, the Tel 266-730 480. Open Tue–Sun. Manueline archaeological
Sé, on the Largo do Marquês de Closed Jan 1, Easter Sun, May 1, Jun finds from all over the region.
Marialva, was begun in 1186. 29, Dec 25. & On the other side of the
The portal is flanked by a pair P University old city wall is the impressive
of unmatched towers. Inside, Largo dos Colegiais. Tel 266-740 875. 18th-century church of
a glittering treasury houses Open Mon–Sat. Closed public hols. São Francisco.
sacred art. Beside it stands a
16th-century palace that houses
the newly renovated Museu de
Évora, which has exhibits on the
history of the city from Roman
columns to modern sculpture.
Opposite the museum is a
Roman temple – erected in
the 2nd or 3rd century AD –
once believed to have been
dedicated to Diana.
Walk from the Sé past the
craft stores of Rua 5 de Outubro
to reach Praça do Giraldo, the
main square, with its Moorish
arcades and central fountain
(1571). In 1573, the square was
the site of an Inquisitional
burning. Just outside the city’s Orange trees in front of the Bishops’ Palace in the old city of Faro
For hotels and restaurants see p362 and p363


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The lively center of modern
Faro, along the Rua de
Santo António, is stylish and
pedestrianized, full of stores,
bars, and restaurants. A little to
the north is Faro’s parish church,
the Baroque and Italianate São
Pedro. In the nearby Largo do
Carmo is the impressive Igreja
do Carmo. Its magnificent
facade and richly decorated
interior are in sharp contrast to
its somber Capela dos Ossos
(Chapel of Bones), built in 1816.
At the far northeast corner of
the town is the Cemitério dos
Judeus. The Jewish cemetery
served from 1838 until 1932; Ocher sandstone rocks sheltering the Praia de Dona Ana beach, Lagos
there is no Jewish community e Lagos
in Faro today. eroded ocher rocks. East of
Albufeira, Vilamoura is set * 16,000. £ @ n Praça Gil
E Museu Municipal to become one of Europe’s Eanes (282-763 031). ( first Sat
Largo Dom Afonso III. Tel 289-870 827. largest leisure complexes. It has of month.
Open Tue–Sun. Closed public hols. & a large marina with lively cafés,
stores, and restaurants. Lagos is set on one of the
Algarve’s largest bays; it
w Portimão was the region’s capital from
1576–1756. The town suffered
* 40,000. £ @ n Avda Tomás badly in the 1755 earthquake,
Cabreira, Praia da Rocha (282-419 132). so as a result, most of the
( first Mon of month. buildings date from the late
18th and 19th centuries.
The Romans were attracted to In the 15th century, Lagos
Portimão by its natural harbor. became an important naval
It is still a flourishing fishing center, unfortunately also
port and one of the largest becoming the site of the first
towns in the Algarve. slave market in Europe.
The town center, around Lagos’s parish church is
the pedestrianized Rua Vasco the 16th-century Santa Maria.
da Gama, dates mainly from The 18th-century Santo
Yachts and powerboats at the Vilamoura the 18th century, since it António is worth a visit for its
marina, east of Albufeira was rebuilt after the 1755 Baroque azulejos and carving.
earthquake. The 14th-century The statue of St. Anthony, kept
q Albufeira origins of the church of Nossa in the church, accompanied
* 31,000. £ @ n Rua 5 de Senhora da Conceição are the local regiment during the
Outubro (289-585 279). ( 1st & 3rd revealed in its portico. The Peninsular War (1807–11).
Tue of month. interior contains 17th- and
18th-century azulejo panels. Environs
This charming fishing port has The promontory, Ponta da
become the tourist capital of Environs Piedade, shelters the bay of
the Algarve. The Romans built a Just 3 km (2 miles) south of Lagos and should not be
castle here and under the Arabs Portimão is Praia da Rocha, missed. Praia de Dona Ana
the town prospered from trade a series of fabulous sandy beach is 25 minutes’ walk from
with North Africa. The oldest coves. At its east end is the the town center, but Praia do
part of the town, around Rua 16th-century castle, Fortaleza Camilo may be less crowded.
da Igreja Velha, retains some de Santa Catarina, with a Meia Praia, east of Lagos,
original Moorish arches. superb view of the beach stretches for 4 km (2 miles).
and cliffs – and a swathe of Lying 10 km (6 miles) north
Environs high-rise hotels. Inland from is the peaceful Barragem de
From Praia de São Rafael, Portimão is the town of Silves, Bravura reservoir. Another
1 mile (2 km) west of Albu feira, once the Moorish capital, Xelb. popular excursion is south-
to Praia da Oura due east, the It has an impressive castle west to Sagres and the
area is punctuated by small and picturesque groves of rocky headland of Cabo
sandy coves set between orange and lemon trees. de São Vicente.




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Practical & Travel Information Health Issues
For non-emergency medical
The Portuguese are a hospitable people, and in Lisbon, treatment, details of how to
Oporto, and the Algarve the choice of hotels, restaurants and contact an English-speaking
entertainment is vast, and English is widely spoken. Elsewhere, doctor can be found in English-
visitors will usually find help easily available, with locals keen language newspapers, such
as Algarve Resident.
to show off their region. Pharmacies (farmâcias) can
Travel and communication networks in Portugal have dispense a range of drugs that
improved greatly in recent years. For national travel there are would require a prescription in
efficient rail and bus services. Cities have buses and trams, many other countries. They
and both Lisbon and Porto have a metro as well. open from 9am to 1pm and
3pm to 7pm (not Sat), and carry
a sign with a green illuminated
Tourist Information the nearest Portuguese embassy cross. No vaccinations are
The country is divided into or consulate as this may change. needed for Portugal, although a
tourist regions, separate from its Citizens of the EU need only a typhoid shot and polio booster
administrative districts. All cities valid passport to enter Portugal. are recommended.
and large towns have a posto de
turismo (tourist office), where you Personal Security Facilities for the Disabled
can obtain information about the
region, lists of hotels, and details Violent crime is rare, but visitors These are limited, although
of regional events. Visitors can should take sensible precautions the situation is improving.
also consult Portuguese tourist after dark, especially in Lisbon, Wheelchairs and adapted
offices abroad. Oporto, and the Algarve. To restrooms are available at
Most state museums open report a crime, contact the airports and major stations,
from 10am to 5pm and are nearest police station. Ask for an and ramps, reserved parking,
usually closed on Mondays. Many interpreter if necessary. Theft of and elevators are becoming
museums and sights also close documents, such as a passport, more common. Lisbon has a
for lunch for one or two hours. should also be reported to your special taxi service, but you
In Lisbon, the convenient consulate or embassy. Many have to book well in advance.
Lisboa Card entitles visitors travel insurance companies insist
to free public transportation, on policy holders reporting thefts
and free or reduced entry to within 24 hours to substantiate Language and Etiquette
museums. It can be bought at any subsequent claim. Written Portuguese looks similar
the airport, the city’s tourist to Spanish, but its pronunciation
offices, and some hotels, travel is very different. The Portuguese
agents, and major sights. It is Emergency Services do not take kindly to being
valid for up to three days. The number to call in an spoken to in Spanish, so it is
emergency is 112. Ask for either useful to learn a few basic
polícia (the police), ambulância phrases before you go. It is polite
Visa Requirements
(an ambulance), or bombeiros to address strangers as senhor or
There are currently no visa (the fire brigade). For emergency senhora and, when introduced to
requirements for American, medical treatment, you should someone, to shake their hand.
Canadian, Australian, and New go to the emergency room Although dress is generally
Zealand nationals for stays up to (serviço de urgência) of the relaxed, especially in the more
90 days. It is worth checking with nearest main hospital. tourist-oriented areas, when
visiting religious buildings,
arms and knees should be
The Climate of Portugal kept covered.
LISBON
In the south of the country,
especially along the sheltered °C/ºF Banking and Currency
coast of the Algarve, winters 28/82
are very mild, but July and 23/73 The currency in Portugal is the
August can be extremely hot. 19/67 17/63 14/57 14/57 euro (see p23). Money can be
Between April and October, 12/53 8/46 changed at most banks, hotels,
the north is pleasantly warm, and bureaux de change (câmbio).
though rain is not unusual. 9 12.5 7.5 5 Banks tend to offer a good rate
Winters in the north can be hrs hrs hrs hrs of exchange. Traveler’s checks
very cold, especially in the 47.5 0 65 95 can often be expensive to cash,
mountainous inland regions. mm mm mm mm although they are a safe way of
The best times to visit are month Apr Jul Oct Jan carrying money. Most major
spring and fall.
credit cards can be used to
make withdrawals from ATMs.



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POR TUGAL  359

Communications Rail Travel Traveling by Car
The Portuguese postal Direct trains to Portugal go Portugal’s highway network
service is known as Correios. from Paris and Madrid. Once in is expanding, but many older
First-class mail (correio azul) Portugal, you can reach many roads are in need of repair
and overseas letters are posted places by rail, but services vary and minor roads can be
in blue mailboxes; second-class enormously. The high-speed Alfa treacherous. Driving can be
mail (normal) is posted in service from Lisbon to Oporto a hair-raising experience –
red mailboxes. via Coimbra and to the Algarve the country has one of the
Public payphones take is good, but local trains can be highest accident rates in
either coins or cards (including slow and infrequent. Fares are Europe and traffic jams are a
credit cards), although there cheap compared to other parts problem in and near cities.
are fewer payphones now due of Europe and tourist tickets are Beware of reckless drivers and
to widespread use of cell available, including the InterRail/ do not drive in the rush hour
phones. It is also possible to Eurail One Country Pass, valid if you can possibly avoid it.
make calls from post offices. for three, four, six, or eight days. If renting a car, check its
It is best to book in advance. condition and insurance very
Lisbon can be confusing for carefully. Always carry your
Flying to Portugal
visitors as there are five main passport, car insurance, license,
Direct flights from New York stations. Santa Apolónia and and rental contract with you
(Newark) to Lisbon are operated Oriente (on the same line) serve (or you may incur a fine).
by United Airlines and TAP Air international routes and the Traffic drives on the right
Portugal. Once in Lisbon, north; for the Alentejo, you hand side and Continental
passengers can change for must take a ferry to Barreiro on European regulations apply.
Faro or Oporto. Internal flights the south bank of the Tagus. Seat belts must be worn. Speed
to Madeira and the Azores are Trains to the Algarve depart limits are 50 kph (31 mph) in
operated by SATA and easyJet. from Oriente. Trains from towns, 90 kph (55 mph) on
Many US airlines operate Rossio go to Sintra on the coast; other roads, and 120 kph
flights from the United States trains from Cais do Sodré serve (74 mph) on highways. Tolls are
to several European hubs, Estoril and Cascais. payable on highways and some
such as London, Paris, or bridges. Do not use the Via
Madrid, where passengers Verde (green lane) at tolls; this is
can change for Lisbon. Long-distance Buses for drivers who have paid
There are no direct flights Some long-distance bus automatically. If you are
to Portugal from Australia or services – Lisbon to Évora for involved in a car accident on a
New Zealand; visitors from example – are quicker and highway or a main road,
these countries should fly more comfortable than going use one of the orange SOS
via London or Madrid. Regular by train. Lisbon’s coach station telephones to call for help.
flights go from many European is located at Sete Rios. Tourist Gas stations can be scarce in
cities direct to Lisbon, Faro, offices and travel agencies remote areas, so always fill up
and Oporto in Portugal. offer information. your car before leaving a town.
DIRECTORY
Tourist Offices Embassies US United Airlines
Avenida das Forças ∑ united.com
Lisbon Australia Armadas, 1600-081
Lisboa Welcome Center, Av. da Liberdade 198–200, Lisbon. Tel 217-273 300. Train Information
Praça do Comércio. 2nd floor, 1250-147 Tel 707-210 220.
Tel 210-312 810. Lisbon. Emergencies ∑ cp.pt
Tel 213-101 500.
Oporto Ambulance, Police,
Rua Clube dos Fenianos Canada and Fire services Car Rental
25. Tel 223-393 472. Av. da Liberdade 198–200, Tel 112. Auto Jardim, Faro
∑ visitporto.travel 3rd floor, 1269-121 Tel 289-818 491.
Lisbon.
UK Tel 213-164 600. Airlines ∑ auto-jardim.com
11 Belgrave Square, Ireland Budget, Oporto
London SW1X 8PP. Av. da Liberdade 200, 4th easyJet Tel 808-25 26 27.
Tel 020-7201 6666. Floor, 1250-147 Lisbon. ∑ easyjet.com ∑ budget.com.pt
US Tel 213-308 200. SATA Europcar, Faro
866 Second Ave, 8th floor, UK Tel 707-227 282. Tel 289-818 726.
New York, NY 10017. Rua de São Bernardo 33, TAP Air Portugal Hertz, Lisbon
Tel 646-723 0200. 1249-082 Lisbon. Tel 707-205 700. Tel 219-426 300.
∑ visitportugal.com Tel 213-924 000. ∑ flytap.com ∑ hertz.pt





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360  THE IBERIAN PENINSULA

Shopping & Entertainment but you will also see sites devoted
to antiques, pottery, lace, rugs,
Traditional arts and crafts flourish in Portugal. A wide range of clothes, and local crafts. Most
interesting pottery can be found in all parts of the country, markets are held in the morning
while in the north embroidery, lace, and gold-filigree jewelry only, but in tourist areas they
from the Minho region make unusual presents. Many visitors may go on until late afternoon.
come to Portugal for the sporting facilities, principally the golf
courses of the Algarve. Watersports, both in the Algarve and Food and Drink
on the wilder west coast, are another great attraction. Tourists Some visitors may want to buy
are usually encouraged to sample fado, Lisbon’s native folk regional produce, such as Serra
music, and there are also classical cultural events to be cheese from the Serra da Estrela
enjoyed in the big cities and at annual festivals. mountains. However, more are
likely to bring back a bottle as a
souvenir – most probably of
port. It is not especially cheap,
Where to Shop examples come from towns in but you will never have the
Although it is not difficult to find the Minho such as Viana do opportunity to sample so many
stores that seem a little behind Castelo, also famous for its styles and vintages as you will
the times when compared with brightly printed shawls. on a tour of the port lodges of
other European countries, Embroidered bedspreads are Vila Nova de Gaia (see p355).
modern shopping malls are now made in Castelo Branco in the When it comes to table wines
a common feature of most cities. Beira Baixa, and colorful carpets you might enjoy the young,
In Lisbon, Amoreiras shopping are sold in the Alentejo. slightly sparkling vinho verde
center led the way, with 247 Filigree jewelry (filigrana) from from Minho in the north, an
shops, underground parking, the Minho is typically worn at aged red Dão, or one of the
movie theaters, and restaurants. local festivals. Gold and silver southern wines from Alentejo.
Colombo followed, and is threads are worked into intricate
Portugal’s largest mall. brooches, earrings, and pendants.
Cascaishopping, between Sintra Woven baskets, produced Entertainment Listings
and Tickets
and Estoril, is similar in style. throughout the country, make
Opening times for shopping delightful souvenirs. Cork Tickets for almost all events in
centers are usually from 10am from the Alentejo is used to Lisbon can be bought in FNAC
until 11pm daily (including make articles such as mats stores, or be reserved by visiting
Sunday). Ordinary stores open at and ice buckets. or phoning the Agência de
9am or 10am and close at 7pm, Bilhetes para Espectáculos
though smaller stores and those (ABEP). Pay in cash when you
in quieter areas usually close for Ceramics collect them from the kiosk.
lunch between 1pm and 3pm. In most cities, you can buy as Some movie theaters and
well as commission ceramic tiles theaters take phone or
and panels. Portugal has a long- credit-card reservations.
Reclaiming Tax
standing tradition of ceramics, Previews of forthcoming events
Value Added Tax (IVA) can be both for decorative purposes and listings of bars and clubs
reclaimed by non-EU residents and for home use. Styles range appear in several magazines
who stay for less than 180 days. from elegant Vista Alegre Atlantis in Lisbon. English-language
Ask for an Isenção de IVA form or porcelain to simple glazed publications include the monthly
invoice in triplicate, describing brown earthenware, plain or Follow Me Lisboa, which is
the goods, quantity, value, and painted with simple patterns. available free from tourist offices.
buyer’s identity (best done where Antique azulejos are highly
you see the “Global Blue” signs). sought after and very expensive, Classical Music, Opera,
Present the forms at customs but you can buy reproductions
on departure. of well-known historic designs and Dance
at places such as Lisbon’s Museu Lisbon’s top cultural centers
Nacional do Azulejo (see p342). are the Fundação Calouste
What to Buy Gulbenkian and the vast Centro
Portugal is not expensive when Markets Cultural de Belém. These host
compared with the rest of national and international events,
Europe, and prices are very A social and commercial including ballet, opera, and
reasonable for traditional crafts, occasion, the street market is concerts. The Portuguese
especially away from the big integral to Portuguese life. It is national opera house is the
cities and tourist centers. The usually held in the town’s main Teatro Nacional de São Carlos.
Portuguese are well known for square. Most markets sell a wide One of the best Classical music
their delicate embroidery and range of goods, from food to festivals is the summer festival in
fine lace. Some of the finest household items and clothes, Sintra (see p350).




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POR TUGAL  361

Theater and Cinema Outdoor Activities top professionals. Some of the
In Lisbon, theater-lovers can Although a small country, best courses insist that players
enjoy performances of Portugal offers a great variety show a reasonable degree of
Portuguese and foreign- of terrain, with sports and proficiency, while others
language plays at the Teatro activities to match. Water- welcome golfers of any ability
Nacional Dona Maria II. sports are extremely popular and provide excellent coaching.
Cult movies and international along its 500 miles (800 km) of Serious golfers might consider
arthouse films can be seen at coast. The best beach for booking a specialist golf
the Cinemateca Portuguesa, surfing is the world-famous vacation. For information on
which has a comprehensive Guincho, near Cascais (see golfing activities and vacations,
monthly film calendar. p350). However, the ocean contact the Federação
In Portugal, movies are almost breakers there are only suitable Portuguesa de Golfe.
always shown in the original for experienced surfers. In fact, Tennis courts are found
language version with all along the Atlantic coast virtually all over Portugal,
Portuguese subtitles. conditions can be dangerous especially alongside tourist
for swimming and watersports, facilities. Some of the larger
hence the appeal of the Algarve resorts offer tennis-
Fado
sheltered bays of the Algarve. coaching vacations. Based in
Fado is an expression of longing These are well-equipped for all London, Jonathan Markson
and sorrow. Literally meaning kinds of activities. Windsurfing Tennis organizes special
“fate,” the term may be applied boards and small sailboats can vacation packages at resorts in
to an individual song as well as be rented at most resorts and Portugal for tennis enthusiasts.
the genre itself. The dominant lessons are easily arranged. The
emotion is saudade – a longing marinas at Lagos and the giant Bullfighting
for what has been lost or has vacation complex of Vilamoura
never been attained. It is sung are the most important Portuguese bullfighting differs
as often by women as men, yachting centers. from the Spanish version in
accompanied by the guitarra (a Many parts of Portugal’s rugged many ways. The bull is not
flat-backed instrument shaped interior are excellent for hiking, killed in the ring and the star
like a mandolin, with paired cycling, and horseback riding. of the show is the horseman
strings) and the viola (acoustic (cavaleiro). An added attraction
Spanish guitar). Golf and Tennis is the pega, in which a team
The traditional way to enjoy of men, the forcados, attempts
fado is with a meal at a fado Most of Portugal’s best golf to topple the bull and
house. It can be an expensive courses are concentrated in the immobilize it with their
night out, so make sure you like Algarve, which has gained a bare hands.
fado before you go. The best reputation as one of Europe’s The traditional center for
establishments are run by the prime destinations for golfing bullfighting is the Ribatejo,
fadistas themselves, for example vacations. The mild climate but Lisbon has a splendid
the Parreirinha de Alfama, which ensures that a game can be Neo-Moorish arena at Campo
was founded by the legendary enjoyed all year round, and many Pequeno, which now has a
performer, Argentina Santos. courses have been designed by modern retractable ceiling.

DIRECTORY
Shopping Malls Classical Music, Theater and Golf and Tennis
Opera, and Dance Cinema
Amoreiras Federação
Avenida Eng. Duarte Centro Cultural Cinemateca Portuguesa de Golfe
Pacheco. Tel 213-810 240. de Belém Portuguesa Tel 214-123 780.
Cascaishopping Praça do Império, Rua Barata Salgueiro 39, Jonathan Markson
Lisbon.
Estrada Nacional 9, Belém, Lisbon. Tel 213-596 200. Tennis
Alcabideche - Estoril. Tel 213-612 400. Riverbank House,
Tel 210-121 628. Fundação Calouste Teatro Nacional 1 Putney Bridge
Dona Maria II
Colombo Gulbenkian Praça Dom Pedro IV, Approach, London
SW6 3BQ, UK.
Avenida Lusíada, Lisbon. Avenida de Berna 45, Lisbon. Tel 020-7603 2422.
Tel 217-113 600. Lisbon. Tel 213-250 800.
Tel 217-823 000.
Entertainment Fado
Tickets Teatro Nacional de
São Carlos Parreirinha de
ABEP Rua Serpa Pinto 9, Alfama
Praça dos Restauradores, Lisbon. Beco do Espírito Santo 1,
Lisbon. Tel 213-470 768. Tel 213-253 000. Lisbon. Tel 218-868 209.


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362  POR TUGAL

Where to Stay

Price Guide
Prices are based on one night’s stay in
high season for a standard double room,
inclusive of service charges and taxes.
€ under €60
€€ €60 to €150
€€€ over €150
COIMBRA: Vintage Lofts €
Historic
Rua Simão de Évora, 11, 3000-386
Tel 964-326 556
∑ coimbravintagelofts.com
Modern decor and 18th-century architecture feature at Solar do Castelo, Alfama Studios and apartments in a
tastefully renovated 18th-century
Lisbon DK Choice building. Daily housekeeping.
BAIXA AND AVENIDA: COIMBRA:
ALFAMA: Solar do Castelo €€€ Internacional Quinta das Lágrimas €€€
Historic Map E3 Design Hotel €€€ Historic
Rua das Cozinhas 2, 1100-181 Boutique Map E3 Rua António Augusto Gonçalves,
Tel 218-806 050 Rua da Betesga 3, 1100-090 3041-901
∑ solardocastelo.com Tel 213-240 990 Tel 239-802 380
Housed in a splendid 18th- ∑ idesignhotel.com ∑ quintadaslagrimas.pt
century mansion, Solar do Each floor of this hotel is based A luxurious palace with a spa and
Castelo has both modern and around a different theme: gorgeous botanical gardens.
classic decor. urban chic, Zen philosophy,
tribal, and pop culture. The OPORTO:
BAIRRO ALTO: Lisbon delicious breakfasts, choice of Grande Hotel de Paris €€
Dreams Guesthouse €€ pillows, and butler service Historic
Modern Map C3 make for a great stay. Rua da Fábrica, 27/29, 4050-247
Rua Rodrigo Da Fonseca 29, 1250-189 Tel 222-073 140
Tel 213-872 393 ∑ hotelparis.pt
∑ lisbondreamsguesthouse.com BELÉM: Pestana Palace Hotel €€€ Rooms have antique furnishings
Rooms at this bright and cheerful Historic and balconies at this Art Deco
hotel have shared bathrooms. Rua Jau 54, 1300-314 hotel with a lovely garden.
There is also an apartment for Tel 213-615 600
longer stays. ∑ pestana.com DK Choice
A 19th-century palace featuring
BAIRRO ALTO: lavish rooms and suites. OPORTO: The Yeatman €€€
Bairro Alto Hotel €€€ Modern
Boutique Map D3 Rua do Choupelo, 4400-088
Praça Luis De Camões, Nº 2, Tel 220-133 100
1200-243 Rest of Portugal ∑ the-yeatman-hotel.com
Tel 213-408 288 An award-winning hotel, The
∑ bairroaltohotel.com ALBUFEIRA: Grande Real Santa Yeatman has a stylish decor.
Stay in this luxurious boutique Eulália Resort & Hotel Spa €€€ Famous for its attentive service
hotel featuring a gourmet Modern and exquisite gourmet food, it
restaurant and a massage room. Praia Santa Eulália, 8200-916 also offers a pool, spa, and an
Tel 289-598 000 indoor hot tub with great views.
BAIXA AND AVENIDA: ∑ realhotelsgroup.com
Shiado Hostel € Modern, well-equipped five-star
Boutique Map D3 beach resort with a Thalasso spa SINTRA: Sintra Bliss Hotel €€
Rua Anchieta, 5, 3rd floor, 1200-023 and diverse range of restaurants. Boutique
Tel 213-429 227 Rua Dr. Alfredo Costa, Nº.15–17,
∑ shiadohostel.com DK Choice 2710-524
A designer “superhostel” offering Tel 219-244 541
private rooms. Colorful and CASCAIS: ∑ sintra-b-hotels.com
bright, with a shared kitchen and Pérgola Guest House €€ Stay in rooms with contemporary
bathrooms. Buffet breakfast. Historic interiors and private balconies.
Avenida Valbom 13, 2750-508 Two-room apartment available.
BAIXA AND AVENIDA: Tel 214-840 040
Métropole €€ ∑ pergolahouse.pt SINTRA:
Historic Map D3 A beautiful 19th-century Tivoli Palácio de Seteais €€€
Praça Dom Pedro IV 30, 1100-200 mansion with marble floors, Historic
Tel 213-219 030 stucco ceilings, and ornate Rua Barbosa du Bocage 8, 2710-517
∑ themahotels.pt furnishings. The friendly owners Tel 219-233 200
This hotel retains an elegant serve guests a complimentary ∑ tivolihotels.com
retro vibe, with authentic Art glass of port. This romantic hotel is housed in
Deco furnishings. an 18th-century mansion.

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TR A VELERS ’ NEEDS  363

Where to Eat and Drink

BELÉM: Vela Latina €€ Price Guide
Lisbon Modern Portuguese Prices are based on a three-course
Doca do Bom Sucesso, 1400-038 meal for one, with half a bottle of
ALFAMA: Tentações de Goa €€ Tel 213-017 118 Closed Sun house wine, and all extra charges.
Goan Map E3 Peaceful, stylish restaurant set in € under €20
Rua São Pedro Mártir 23, 1100-555 lush gardens with views of the €€ €20 to €40
Tel 218-875 824 Closed Mon lunch; river and the marina. Popular €€€ over €40
Sun; public holidays dishes include lobster-filled
Brightly painted walls and a crêpes and hake fillet with rice. CASCAIS: Casa Velha €€
friendly welcome make this a Seafood
cheerful dining option. The chef CHIADO: Avenida Valbom 1, 2750-508
cooks outstanding Goan cuisine Café Buenos Aires €€ Tel 214-832 586 Closed Wed in
and will adapt the level of spice Steak House Map D3 winter
to individual tastes. Cash only. Calçada do Duque 31, 1200-155 Casa Velha features a rustic
Tel 213-420 739 ambience with stone walls. Menu
DK Choice Enjoy succulent and cooked-to- favorites include caldeirada de
peixe (fish stew) and paella.
perfection Argentinian steaks in a
BAIRRO ALTO: cozy, unpretentious setting. Also
Taberna Ideal €€ try the flower salad. Book ahead. DK Choice
Modern Portuguese Map C4
Rua Esperança 112, 1120-114 LAPA: Restaurante Lapa €€€ COIMBRA: A Taberna €€
Tel 213-962 744 Closed lunch Portuguese/Italian Map B4 Traditional Portuguese Map C3
(except Sun); Mon & Tue Olissippo Lapa Palace, Rua do Pau Rua dos Combatentes da Grande
This warm taverna serves da Bandeira 4, 1249-021 Guerra 86, 3030-181
traditional Portuguese cuisine Tel 213-949 494 Tel 239-716 265 Closed Sun
with a modern twist. Expect Housed in a 19th-century palace, dinner; Mon lunch
great explanations and advice this refined restaurant serves This lovely eatery with a warm
on the inventive menu, which is gourmet dishes, such as leitão de interior offers local delicacies
designed to be shared. Perfect porco preto (suckling black pig). prepared in an open kitchen.
for all – solo travelers, couples, Exemplary wine list. The veal is tender and delicious,
and groups. Reservations highly as is the octopus. The home-
recommended. Cash only. made bread with requeijão
(ricotta cheese) is divine.
Rest of Portugal
BAIXA AND AVENIDA:
Os Tibetanos € OPORTO: Cometa €€
Vegetarian Map D3 DK Choice International
Rua do Salitre 117, 1250-198 Rua Tomás Gonzaga 87, 4050-607
Tel 213-142 038 Closed Sun AMARANTE: Tel 916-582 608 Closed lunch;
This informal restaurant with a Largo do Paço €€€ Sun
garden terrace serves a healthy International The menu at Cometa features
selection of Tibetan dishes, Casa da Calçada, Largo do Paço dishes from countries as far apart
plus international options like 6, 4600-017 as Vietnam and Poland. Cash
tofu with pesto. Cash only. Tel 255-410 830 only; reservations recommended.
The elegant Largo do Paço
BAIXA AND AVENIDA: boasts a Michelin star and OPORTO: The Yeatman €€€
Fábulas €€ offers a culinary experience International
Modern Portuguese Map D3 that would satisfy the most Rua do Choupelo, 4400-088
Calçada Nova de São Francisco, 14, refined and demanding taste Tel 220-133 100
1200-300 buds. Chef André Silva changes This luxurious Michelin-starred
Tel 216-018 472 Closed Sun the various degustation menus restaurant is bound to impress.
Exposed brickwork offset by an seasonally to incorporate the Fantastic views accompany an
eclectic collection of furniture sets freshest ingredients. inspired gourmet menu and a
the tone at this café. A number of well-chosen wine list.
seating areas accom modate both
mood and the weather. The
menu offers snacks and meals,
and the wine list is great.
BAIXA AND AVENIDA:
Bistro 100 Maneiras €€€
International Map D3
Largo Trindade 9, 1200-466
Tel 210-990 475 Closed lunch; Sun
Bistro 100 Maneiras is a
glamorous place favored by
a fashionable clientele. The
upstairs dining area is quite
charming, and the creative
menu features world cuisine. Alfresco dining under large parasols at Fábulas, Lisbon
362-363_EW_Europe.indd 363 14/07/16 3:06 pm

364-365_EW_Europe.indd 364 14/07/16 10:44 am

ITALY AND


GREECE





Italy and Greece
at a Glance 366–367
Italy 368–443
Greece 444–489


















































364-365_EW_Europe.indd 365 14/07/16 10:44 am

366  IT AL Y AND GREECE

Italy and Greece at a Glance
The appeal of Italy and Greece is both cultural and
hedonistic. As the cradles of Europe’s two great Classical
civilizations, both countries are famous for their ancient
temples and monuments, concentrated principally in
the cities of Rome and Athens. Located in the southern
half of Europe, Italy and Greece share a sunny
Mediterranean climate and a correspondingly
laid-back way of life. Away from the
main cultural sights, the
peaceful countryside,
beautiful beaches, and Trieste
warm seas guarantee Milan
a relaxed vacation. Venice
Turin
Parma
Genoa Bologna

Florence
Ancona
Siena
ITALY Pescara
(see pp368–443)

Rome
Foggia Serres
Bari
Naples Brindisi Thessaloníki
Venice (see pp414–23) is a Kozani
city quite unlike any other: a Sardinia
fabulous treasure house of Ioannina Lárisa
art and architecture, built Corfu
on a series of islands, where
there are no cars and the Cagliari GREECE
streets are canals. (see pp444–89)
Reggio di
Calabria
Palermo Patra Athens
Florence (see pp394–407) Sicily
embodies the Renaisssance of
art and learning in the 15th
century. Familiar masterpieces Kalamata
of the period, such as this copy Rhodes Town
of Michelangelo’s David, adorn Rhodes
the streets.
Irákleio
Crete
Rome (see pp374–
87) owes its grandest
monuments to the
era of papal rule.
The vast colonnaded
square in front of
St. Peter’s and the
Vatican was created
by Bernini in the
17th century.
Aerial view of Florence from Fiesole hill on a foggy morning, Italy



366-367_EW_Europe.indd 366 14/07/16 10:44 am

A T A GLANCE  367











Locator Map



Trieste
Milan
Venice
Turin The Peloponnese (see pp466–9), a large peninsula, connected
to the rest of the Greek mainland by the Corinth isthmus,
Parma abounds in ancient and medieval ruins. The heavily fortified
Genoa Bologna sea port of Monemvasía, in the southeastern corner, has many
well-preserved Byzantine and Venetian buildings.
Florence
Ancona
Siena
ITALY Pescara
(see pp368–443)

Rome
Foggia Serres
Bari
Naples Brindisi Thessaloníki Athens (see pp450–57)
is renowned for its
Kozani unrivaled collection of
Sardinia Classical antiquities.
The world-famous
Ioannina Lárisa Acropolis is dominated
Corfu by the 2,500-year-old
Cagliari GREECE Parthenon, built as an
(see pp444–89) expression of the glory
Reggio di of ancient Greece.
Calabria
Palermo Patra Athens
Sicily

Kalamata
0 km 100 Rhodes Town
0 miles 100 Rhodes

Irákleio
Crete





Crete (see pp476–7), the largest and most
southerly of the Greek islands, boasts clear
blue seas and fine sandy beaches. Inland,
there are ancient Minoan palaces and
dramatic mountainous landscapes.




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IT AL Y AND GREECE  369

ITALY


Italy has drawn people in search of culture and romance for centuries. Few
countries can compete with its Classical origins, its art, architecture, musical,
and literary traditions, its scenery, or its food and wine. Since World War II, Italy
has climbed into the top ten world economies, yet at its heart it retains many of
the customs, traditions, and regional allegiances of its agricultural heritage.


Italy has no single cultural identity. Germany and France, while the south
Between the snowy peaks of the Alps has suffered a succession of invasions
and the rugged shores of Sicily lies a from foreign powers: Carthaginians and
whole series of regions, each with its Greeks in ancient times, Saracens and
own distinctive dialect, architecture, Normans in the Middle Ages, and until
and cuisine. There is also a larger regional the middle of the last century, the
division. People speak of two Italies: Bourbons from Spain held sway.
the rich industrial north and the poorer
agricultural south, known as Il Mezzogiorno History
(Land of the Midday Sun). Italy is a young country; it did not exist as
The north is directly responsible for a unified nation state until 1861. The idea
Italy’s place among the world’s top of Italy as a geographic entity goes back to
industrial nations, a success achieved the time of the Etruscans, but prior to the
by names such as Fiat, Pirelli, Olivetti, 19th century, the only time the peninsula
Zanussi, Alessi, and Armani. The south, was united was under the Romans, who
in contrast, has high unemployment, by the 2nd century BC had subdued the
many areas in the grip of organized other Italian tribes and the Greek colonies
crime, and regions that rank among around the coast. Rome became the
the most depressed in Europe. capital of a huge empire, introducing
History and geography have both its language, laws, and calendar to most
contributed to the division. The north of Europe before falling to Germanic
is closer both in location and spirit to invaders in the 5th century AD.

























The softly undulating hills of Tuscany
The awe inspiring ruins of the Roman Forum, Rome



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370  IT AL Y AND GREECE

fought to decide which of them
should be in charge of their
nebulous empire.
Meanwhile, a succession of foreign
invaders – Normans, Angevins, and
Aragonese – conquered Sicily and
the south. The north, in contrast,
saw a growth of independent city
The ostentatious Victor Emmanuel Monument in Rome, built to commemorate states, the most powerful being
the completion of the unification of Italy in 1870
Venice, fabulously wealthy from
Another important legacy of the Roman trade with the East. Northern Italy became
Empire was Christianity, with the pope as the most prosperous and cultured region
head of the Catholic church throughout in western Europe, and it was the artists
western Europe. The medieval papacy and scholars of 15th-century Florence
summoned the Franks to drive out the who inspired the Renaissance. Small,
Lombards from Italy and, in AD 800, fragmented states, however, could not
crowned the Frankish king Charlemagne compete with great powers. In the 16th
Holy Roman Emperor. Unfortunately, for century, Italy’s petty kingdoms fell prey to
five centuries, popes and emperors a foreign invader, this time to Spain. The
north subsequently came under the
KEY DATES IN ITALIAN HISTORY control of Austria, while the papacy ruled
a small region in the center.
c.800 BC First Greek colonists reach Italy
c.700 BC Rise of the Etruscans One small kingdom that remained
509 BC Foundation of Roman Republic independent was Piedmont, and in the
202 BC Victory over Carthaginians makes Rome 19th century it became the focus for a
dominant power in the Mediterranean movement towards a united Italy, a goal
27 BC Augustus establishes Roman Empire that was achieved in 1870, thanks largely
AD 476 Collapse of Western Roman Empire to the heroic military exploits of Garibaldi.
564 Lombards invade northern Italy In the 1920s, the Fascists seized power
878 Saracens gain control of Sicily and, in 1946, the monarchy was
1061 Start of Norman conquest of Sicily abandoned for today’s republic.
1321 Dante writes The Divine Comedy Governments in the postwar era have
15th century Medici rule Florence; Renaissance consistently been short-lived coalitions,
1527 Sack of Rome by Emperor’s troops puts end to dominated by the Christian Democrats.
political ambitions of the papacy
Investigations in Milan in 1992 revealed
1713 Much of the north passes to Austria an organized network of corruption
1735 Bourbon dynasty become rulers of Naples and
Sicily (Kingdom of the Two Sicilies) which exposed a huge number of
1860 Garibaldi and the Thousand capture Kingdom politicians and businessmen. Between
of the Two Sicilies 1994 and 2011, the political scene was
1861 Unification of most of Italy under House of dominated by Silvio Berlusconi. His fall
Savoy, rulers of Piedmont and Sardinia was followed by a period of instability
1870 Rome becomes capital of modern Italy until 2013, when young Left Democrat
1922 Fascists come to power under Mussolini
Matteo Renzi became Prime Minister.
1946 Foundation of modern Italian republic
2002 Italy joins European single currency Tradition and Progress
2006 Italy wins World Cup in Germany Variations between Italy’s regions have
2013 Former president Silvio Berlusconi expelled much to do with the mountainous
from parliament due to tax fraud conviction
2013 Pope Francis is elected after Benedict XVI’s landscape and inaccessible valleys.
unprecedented resignation Throughout the country, ancient
techniques of husbandry endure and




370-371_EW_Europe.indd 370 14/07/16 10:10 am

IT AL Y  371

many livelihoods are linked to the land and
the seasons. Main crops include wheat,
olives, and grapes. Although some of the
north’s postwar economic prosperity can
be attributed to industry (especially car
production in Turin), much of it has grown
from the expansion of family-owned
artisan businesses exporting handmade
goods abroad. The clothes chain, Benetton,
is a typical example of Italian design flair Children on their way to take First Communion in the Basilica di
capturing a large slice of the global market. Monte Berico, Vicenza
Language and Culture Modern Life
A tradition of literary Italian was established The number of practising Catholics in Italy
back in the 14th century by the poets is in decline. In spite of this, Italian society
Dante and Petrarch, who wrote in a is still highly traditional, and Italians can be
cultured Florentine dialect. Yet, even today, very formal. Italian chic decrees that your
with national television and radio stations, clothes should give the impression of
Italy’s regional dialects are resilient and wealth. If people wear similar outfits, it is
northerners have great difficulty because Italians are conformists in fashion
understanding a Neapolitan or Sicilian. as in many other aspects of daily life.
The arts in Italy have enjoyed a long and The emphasis on conformity and a
glorious history and Italians are very proud commitment to the family remain key
of this. Given the fact that Italy has some factors in Italian society despite the
100,000 monuments of major historical country’s low, and falling, birth rate.
significance, it is not surprising that there is Grandparents, children and grandchildren
a shortage of funds to keep them in good still live in family units, although this is
repair. However, with tourism accounting becoming less common. All children are
for 3 percent of Italy’s GDP, efforts are being pampered but the most cherished ones
made to put as many great buildings and are, usually, male. Attitudes to women in
art collections on show as possible. the workplace have changed, particularly
The performing arts are also underfunded, in the cities. However, the idea that men
yet there are spectacular cultural festivals. should help with housework is still a fairly
In the land of Verdi and Rossini, opera is foreign notion to the older generation.
well supported, with an opera house in Food and football are the great
almost every town. Cinema is another art constants; Italians live for both. Much time
form that flourishes, with great directors of is spent on preparing food and eating.
the second half of the 20th century, such The Italian diet, particularly in the south,
as Federico Fellini, and Vittorio de Sica. is among the healthiest in the world.
Football is a national passion and inspires
massive public interest.
Despite the political upheaval and
corruption scandals of the 1990s, Italy
appears little changed to foreign visitors,
maintaining its regional identities and
traditional values. The cost of living has
soared, however, since the introduction
of the euro in 2002, leading to increased
poverty for some. The global economic
The Italian soccer team lined up before a match crisis has also had a serious impact on Italy.




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372  IT AL Y AND GREECE
Innsbruck Salzburg
Exploring Italy Zurich AUSTRIA
SWITZERLAND
Italy’s elongated shape means travel S41 Bolzano Cortina d'Ampezzo
can take up a fair proportion of your S42 A22 S51 A23
visit. Rome, Florence, and Venice Domodossola Lake Como Belluno Udine SLOVENIA
(Lago di Como)
are naturally the main tourist Lake Maggiore Trento S13 Ljubljana
Lake Garda
destinations, but there are many (Lago Maggiore) (Lago di Garda) Zagreb
A5
other attractive historic towns and Aosta Malpensa Bergamo Brescia Vicenza Treviso Trieste
cities that merit a detour of a A4 Linate Verona A4
A4
couple of days or more. Visitors A5 Po Milan A1 Mantua Padua Venice Rijeka
(Venezia)
with time to explore often choose Turin A7 (Mantova) N482 Adige (Padova)
Po
to tour a particular region, such as S23 (Torino) A21 Parma A22 Ferrara S309
Tuscany, the Veneto, or the island Ta naro A26 S 45 A15 A1 S16
of Sicily. Road and rail connections S20 A6 Genoa Bologna
(Genova)
are generally better in the north, S21 A10 Portofino Ravenna
where Milan, Bologna, and Verona Peninsula A12 SAN Rimini
are the key transport hubs. La Spezia A11 MARINO Pesaro CROATIA
Lucca
San Remo Florence S71
Nice Ligurian Pisa (Firenze) S3 Ancona
FRANCE MONACO Livorno San Urbino
Sea
Gimignano S76 Split
Marseille Siena Gubbio
BOSNIA AND
Perugia HERZEGOVINA
A14
S1
S 223 Piceno Adriatic
Piombino Assisi S77 Ascoli
A1
Bastia Elba Orvieto Todi S4 Sea Dubrovnikk
N193 Orbetello A24 Pescara
Corsica Viterbo L'Aquila Isole
Civitavécchia A25 Sulmona Tremiti
A14
Sights at a Glance Ajaccio N198 Fiumicino
1 Rome pp374–87 u Verona ROME (Roma) I TA L Y S89
2 Assisi pp388–9 i Vicenza Anzio S148 A1 N85 Foggia Greece,
Egypt
3 Perugia o Padua S 213 S87
4 Siena pp390–92 p Venice pp414–23 Naples Benevento A14 Bari
S7
5 San Gimignano a Ferrara S1 25 (Napoli) A16 N96 Greece
Porto
6 Florence pp394–407 s Bologna Torres Olbia Isola d'Ischia Pompeii A14 S1 6
7 Pisa d Ravenna Sassari Amalfi Brindisi
8 Lucca f Urbino Alghero S131 S131d Isola di Capri Amalfi S407 S7 Lecce
9 Portofino Peninsula g Naples Coast Agri Taranto S16
0 Genoa h Pompeii S18 S 106
q Turin j Amalfi Coast Sardinia T yrrhenian A3
w Milan k Palermo S1 31 S125 Sea
e Lake Maggiore l Taormina S18 Ionian
r Lake Como z Mount Etna S130 Sea
t Lake Garda x Syracuse Cagliari Cosenza
y Mantua c Agrigento
Catanzaro
Isole Eolie o Lípari
A3 S106
Palermo Reggio di
Isole Messina Calabria
Egadi Trapani
A29 A20 A18
A19
Mount Etna Taormina
A19 Catania
M E D I T E R R A N E A N S E A
Tunis Agrigento S ici l y
0 km 80
Syracuse
S115
0 miles 80 (Siracusa)
Tunis Isola di Ragusa
Pantelleria
Malta
For hotels and restaurants see pp438–40 and pp441–3
372-373_EW_Europe.indd 372 14/07/16 3:08 pm

IT AL Y  373
Innsbruck Salzburg
Zurich
AUSTRIA
SWITZERLAND Distance chart
S41 Bolzano A22 S51 Cortina d'Ampezzo Rome Distance by road in kilometers
Distance by road in miles
S42 A23 383 Bologna
Lake Como SLOVENIA 238
Domodossola (Lago di Como) Trento Belluno Udine 562 783
Lake Maggiore S13 Ljubljana 349 487 Brindisi
(Lago Maggiore) Lake Garda
A5 (Lago di Garda) Zagreb 278 106 832 Florence
66
517
Malpensa Bergamo Treviso 173
Aosta Vicenza Trieste
Brescia Verona A4 510 291 1064 225 Genoa
A4 Linate 317 181 661 140
A5 Milan A1 A4 Padua Venice Rijeka 575 210 990 299 145 Milan
(Venezia)
Po Mantua (Padova) 357 130 615 186 90
Turin A7 (Mantova) N482 Adige 219 594 354 489 714 786
(Torino) Po Ferrara 136 369 220 304 444 488 Naples
A21 Parma A22 S309
S23
Ta naro A26 S 45 A15 A1 S16 673 332 1111 395 170 138 884 Turin
206
418
691
106
86
549
245
S20 A6 Genoa Bologna 530 154 928 255 397 273 741 402 Venice
(Genova)
S21 A10 Portofino Ravenna 329 96 577 158 247 170 460 250
Peninsula
SAN
La Spezia A12 A11 MARINO Rimini Pesaro CROATIA
Lucca
San Remo Florence S71
Nice Ligurian Pisa (Firenze) S3 Ancona
FRANCE MONACO Livorno San Urbino
Sea
Gimignano S76 Split
Marseille Siena Gubbio
BOSNIA AND
Perugia HERZEGOVINA
A14
S1
S 223 Piceno Adriatic
Piombino Assisi S77 Ascoli
A1
Bastia Elba Orvieto Todi S4 Sea Dubrovnikk
N193 Orbetello A24 Pescara
Corsica Viterbo L'Aquila Isole
Civitavécchia A25 Sulmona Tremiti
A14
N198
Ajaccio Fiumicino
ROME (Roma) I TA L Y S89
Greece,
S148
Anzio A1 Foggia
N85 Egypt
S 213 S87
S7
Benevento Bari
Naples A14
(Napoli) A16
Porto S1 25 Olbia Pompeii N96 Greece
Torres Isola d'Ischia A14
Sassari S1 6
Amalfi Brindisi
Alghero S131 S131d Isola di Capri Amalfi S407 Taranto S7 Lecce
Coast
S18 Agri S 106 S16
Sardinia T yrrhenian A3
Sea
Ionian
S1 31
S125
S18
Sea
S130
Cosenza
Cagliari
Catanzaro
Isole Eolie o Lípari
A3 S106
Palermo Reggio di
Isole Messina Calabria
Egadi Trapani Key
A29 A20 A18
A19 Highway
Mount Etna Taormina Major road
A19 Catania
M E D I T E R R A N E A N S E A
Tunis Agrigento S ici l y Railroad
International border
Syracuse
S115 Ferry route
(Siracusa)
Tunis Isola di Ragusa
Pantelleria
Malta
For keys to symbols see back flap
372-373_EW_Europe.indd 373 14/07/16 3:08 pm

374  IT AL Y AND GREECE


1 Rome V I A L E B R U N O A1

From its early days as a settlement of shepherds on the Palatine VIALE V I A UL I SSE VIA CASSIA V. FLAMINIA VIA SALARIA VIA NOMEN TANA
hill, Rome grew to rule a vast empire stretching beyond western S5 Tivoli
Europe. Later, after the fall of the Roman empire, Rome became BELLE ART I VIA P. RAIMONDI GRANDE RACCORDOANULARE
VILLA
the center of the Christian world. The legacy of this history can VIA FLAMINIA BORGHESE V IALE DELL'UCCELLIERA (GRA) VIA TIBURTINA A24
be seen all over the city. The Pope, head of the Roman Catholic VIALE D. ARANCIERA
Church, still resides in the Vatican City, an independent enclave Flaminio VIALE DEI CAVALLI MARINI VIA PINCIANA Civitavecchia
S1
at the heart of Rome. In 1870, Rome became the capital of a VIALE DEL MU R O T O RTO CO R SO D'ITALIA VIA AURELIA VIA CASILINA
newly unified Italy, and now has over 2.8 million inhabitants. PIAZZA DEL DEL BRASILE S6
In summer, many of the grand Baroque piazzas and narrow POPOLO D'AN NUNZIO V. C AMPANIA VIA APPIA NUOVA S7 A1
VIALE S. PAOLO
V .G.
medieval streets are crammed VIA DI RIPETTA V. DEL BABUINO VIA Leonardo S214
da Vinci
with attractive sidewalk LUNGOT. IN AUGUSTA V I A VENETO VIA PIEMONTE (Fiumicino) S148
VIA
VITTORIO
bars and restaurants. V A T I C A N O LUNGOT. DEI MELLINI D E PIAZZA DI Spagna LUDOVISI A91 VIA CRISTOFORO COLOMBO Ciampino
VIA G. CARDUCCI
VIA D.
V. ARA L
CROCE SPAGNA VIA L. BISSOLATI SETTEMBRE Tevere
VIA
V I A L E TOMACELLI CONDOTTI V. DUE MACELLI V. FRANCESCO CRISPI SISTINA VIA BARBERINI Diocleziano (Tiber) Lido di Ostia
VIA
Barberini
VIA
Terme di
LUNGOT. MARZIO
PACIS C O R S O
Palazzo
LUNGOT.
VIA
PIAZZA D.
VIA D. CASTELLO T e v e r e V IA DI CAMPO M ARZIO DEL TRITONE Barberini XX REPUBBLICA Repubblica
LUNGOT.
Roma
PIAZZA S. CONCILIAZIONE VATICANO Palazzo di VIA VIA IN ARCIONE VIA D. IV FONTANE Termini
PIETRO LUNGOT. TOR Altemps VIA DELLA SCROFA Montecitorio VIA D. Palazzo del V. D. QUIRINALE V I A Museo
DI NONA Palazzo
Nazionale
PIAZZA
MURATTE
COLONNA
PIAZZA LUNGOT. D. FIORENTINI V. DEI CORONARI PIAZZA D. VIA DEL CORSO Quirinale VIA NAZIONALE VIA A. DEPRETIS Romano VIA V. G I O
DELLA
ROTONDA
T O R I N O
PIAZZA DEL
PILOTTA
V. D. GIA NICOLO ROVERE CORSO VITTORIO EMA NUEL E II PIAZZA D. QUIRINALE VIA MILANO CAVOUR GIOBERTI V A N N I G I O L I T T I
VIA
CORSO
P A N I S P E R N A VIA RATTAZZI VIA T .
RINASCIMENTO
LUNGOT.
PIAZZA V. IV NOV V I A VIA DEI SERPENTI VIA C. ALBERTO MAMIANI
VIA DEI
CESTARI
D. SANGALLO
VENEZIA
CAMPO MARCO Il . Cavour VIA MERULANA
LUNGOTEVERE
GIANICOLENSE
PIAZZA
D. FIORI
VIA GIULIA
SAN
V. ALDO F ABRIZI FARNESINA DEI TEBALDI FARNESE GIUBB ONARI I V. ARE NU LA Vittoriano VIA CAVOUR VI A L E DEL MONTE OPPIO
VIA GIOVANNI LANZA
PIAZZA
VI A DEI
LUNGOTEVERE
LUNGOT . DELLA
VIA
VIA D.
GIANICOLO VIA D. RIARI VIA D. VAL L ATI VIA D. TEATRO DI MARCELL O ANNIBALDI Domus MECENATE
LUN G OT.
PIAZZALE G. CORSINI LUNG OT. D. CENCI Colosseo Aurea
VIA DEI FORI IMPERIALI
VIA G. GARIBALDI D. SCALA VIA LUNGOT. D. VIA DI SAN TEODORO VIA LABICA N A Manzoni
GARIBALDI LUNGOT. R. S ANZIO
VIALE
COLOSSEO
San
ALDO FABRIZI
BOCCA D.
Clemente
VERITÀ
V. GIACOMO VIA G. MA MELI PIAZZA S. PIAZZA RIP A VIA DEI CERCHI VIA DI VIA CLAUDIA S T E FANO ROTONDO O GIOVANNI IN
VIA G. GARIBALDI V. D. GENOVESI A V E N T I N O PIAZZA GREGORIO PIAZZA DEL V. DI S. GIOVANNI IN LATERAN
L U N G O T.
MEDICI
V. ANNIA
PIAZZA S.
COSIMATO
VIA DI S.
VIALE NICOLA
MASTAI
LATERANO
VIA ANICIA
T e v e r e
FABRIZI
V. DELL'AMBA ARADAM
PORTO DI
RIPA GRANDE
VILLA
PARCO DI
V. DI
V. CALAND R EL L I VIALE GLORIOSO VIALE DI TRASTEVE RE ANGUILLARAD. L U N G O T S. ALESSIO CIRCO MASSIMO S. CELIMONTANA FONSECA VILLA San Giovanni
VIA DEL
in Laterano
V I A DA N D OLO VIA D. NAV IC E LLA LATERANI VIA DEI
PIAZZA Circo
TEMPIO
V. D.PIRAMIDE V. AVENTINO Massimo
DI DIANA VIA DI S. PRISCA DI CARACALLA
S. MELANIA PARCO DI PIAZZA DI VIA DRUSO
S.
PORTA
VIA
V. D. TERME
CAPENA
The Roman Forum with the Colosseum VIA MARMORATA ALESSIO VIA AVENTINA S. BALBINA PIAZZALE
NUMA
rising behind VIALE G. BACCELLI Terme di POMPILO
Getting Around CESTIA V. DI S. S A BA BERNINI Caracalla PARCO EGERIO
PIAZZA
Sights at a Glance w Roman Forum Rome’s subway system is known G. L. G I O T T O
1 St. Peter’s pp376–7 e Palatine as la metropolitana (metro for Stazione V I A L E VIAL E G UIDO BACCELLI VIA D. TERME
Roma-Ostia
short). Line A crosses the city
2 Vatican Museums pp378–80 r Colosseum from northwest to southeast, Line Piramide DI CARACALLA S. SEBASTIANO
3 Castel Sant’Angelo t Santa Maria Maggiore B from southwest to northeast. Stazione
VIA DI PORTA
Roma-
4 Villa Farnesina y Trevi Fountain The two lines meet at Stazione Ostiense
5 Santa Maria in Trastevere u Spanish Steps Termini, the city’s central station,
6 Piazza Navona i Santa Maria del Popolo which is also the starting point
7 Pantheon o Museo e Galleria Borghese for many bus routes. A third
8 Galleria Doria Pamphilj p Villa Giulia metro line is due for completion
9 Gesù in 2018. Official taxis are white or
0 Capitoline Museums yellow. Walking is preferable to
q Trajan’s Markets driving in the city’s narrow streets.
374-375_EW_Europe.indd 374 14/07/16 10:10 am

ROME  375



V I A L E B R U N O Greater Rome A1 VIA NOMEN TANA
V I A UL I SSE VIA CASSIA V. FLAMINIA VIA SALARIA Tivoli
VIALE
BELLE ART I
VIA P. RAIMONDI
VILLA V IALE DELL'UCCELLIERA GRANDE RACCORDOANULARE (GRA) VIA TIBURTINA S5
BORGHESE A24
VIA PINCIANA Civitavecchia
VIALE D. ARANCIERA
Flaminio VIALE DEL MU R O T O RTO CO R SO D'ITALIA VIA AURELIA VIA CASILINA
S1
VIA FLAMINIA
VIALE DEI CAVALLI MARINI
S6
PIAZZA DEL DEL BRASILE
POPOLO D'AN NUNZIO V. C AMPANIA VIA APPIA NUOVA S7 A1
VIALE S. PAOLO
VIA DI RIPETTA V I A V. DEL BABUINO VENETO VIA VIA PIEMONTE Leonardo S148 S214
V .G.
da Vinci
(Fiumicino)
VIA
VITTORIO
V A T I C A N O LUNGOT. DEI MELLINI V. ARA L VIA D. PIAZZA DI Spagna LUDOVISI VIA G. CARDUCCI A91 VIA CRISTOFORO COLOMBO Ciampino
D E
CROCE SPAGNA VIA L. BISSOLATI SETTEMBRE Tevere 0 km 4
VIA
V I A L E TOMACELLI CONDOTTI V. DUE MACELLI V. FRANCESCO CRISPI SISTINA VIA BARBERINI Diocleziano (Tiber) Lido di Ostia 0 miles 4
VIA
LUNGOT. IN AUGUSTA
Barberini
VIA
Terme di
LUNGOT. MARZIO
PACIS C O R S O
Palazzo
LUNGOT.
VIA
PIAZZA D.
VIA D. CASTELLO T e v e r e V IA DI CAMPO M ARZIO DEL TRITONE Barberini XX REPUBBLICA Repubblica Key
Roma
VATICANO
PIAZZA S. CONCILIAZIONE LUNGOT. Palazzo di VIA VIA IN ARCIONE VIA D. IV FONTANE Termini
PIETRO LUNGOT. TOR Altemps VIA DELLA SCROFA Montecitorio VIA D. Palazzo del V. D. QUIRINALE V I A Museo Area of main map
DI NONA Palazzo
Nazionale
PIAZZA
MURATTE
COLONNA
PIAZZA LUNGOT. D. FIORENTINI V. DEI CORONARI PIAZZA D. VIA DEL CORSO Quirinale VIA NAZIONALE VIA A. DEPRETIS Romano VIA V. G I O
DELLA
ROTONDA
T O R I N O
PIAZZA DEL
PILOTTA
V. D. GIA NICOLO ROVERE CORSO VITTORIO EMA NUEL E II PIAZZA D. QUIRINALE VIA MILANO CAVOUR GIOBERTI V A N N I G I O L I T T I
VIA
CORSO
P A N I S P E R N A VIA RATTAZZI VIA T .
RINASCIMENTO
LUNGOT.
PIAZZA V. IV NOV V I A VIA DEI SERPENTI VIA C. ALBERTO MAMIANI
VIA DEI
CESTARI
D. SANGALLO
LUNGOTEVERE
CAMPO VENEZIA . Cavour
GIANICOLENSE
VIA GIULIA
D. FIORI PIAZZA VIA GIOVANNI LANZA
SAN
V. ALDO F ABRIZI FARNESINA DEI TEBALDI FARNESE GIUBB ONARI I V. ARE NU LA Vittoriano VIA CAVOUR VIA D. VI A L E DEL MONTE OPPIO
MARCO Il
PIAZZA
VI A DEI
LUNGOTEVERE
VIA MERULANA
LUNGOT . DELLA
VIA
GIANICOLO VIA D. RIARI D. VAL L ATI VIA D. TEATRO DI MARCELL O ANNIBALDI Domus MECENATE
VIA
LUN G OT.
PIAZZALE G. CORSINI LUNG OT. D. CENCI Colosseo Aurea
VIA DEI FORI IMPERIALI
GARIBALDI LUNGOT. R. S ANZIO
VIA G. GARIBALDI D. SCALA VIA LUNGOT. D. VIA DI SAN TEODORO VIA LABICA N A Manzoni
VIALE
COLOSSEO
San
ALDO FABRIZI
BOCCA D.
Clemente
VERITÀ
V. GIACOMO VIA G. MA MELI PIAZZA S. MASTAI RIP A VIA DEI CERCHI VIA DI VIA CLAUDIA V. ANNIA S T E FANO ROTONDO O GIOVANNI IN
VIA G. GARIBALDI V. D. GENOVESI A V E N T I N O PIAZZA GREGORIO PIAZZA DEL V. DI S. GIOVANNI IN LATERAN
L U N G O T.
MEDICI
PIAZZA S.
PIAZZA
COSIMATO
VIA DI S.
VIALE NICOLA
LATERANO
VIA ANICIA
FABRIZI
T e v e r e
V. DELL'AMBA ARADAM
RIPA GRANDE
PORTO DI
VILLA
PARCO DI
V. DI
V. CALAND R EL L I VIALE GLORIOSO VIALE DI TRASTEVE RE ANGUILLARAD. L U N G O T S. ALESSIO CIRCO MASSIMO S. CELIMONTANA FONSECA VILLA San Giovanni
VIA DEL
in Laterano
V I A DA N D OLO VIA D. NAV IC E LLA LATERANI VIA DEI
PIAZZA Circo
TEMPIO
V. D.PIRAMIDE V. AVENTINO Massimo VIALE G. BACCELLI Caracalla PIAZZALE Fontana della Barcaccia at the foot
DI DIANA VIA DI S. PRISCA DI CARACALLA
S. MELANIA PARCO DI PIAZZA DI VIA DRUSO
S.
PORTA
V. D. TERME
VIA
CAPENA
S. BALBINA
ALESSIO
NUMA
POMPILO
of the famous Spanish Steps
Terme di
VIA AVENTINA
PARCO EGERIO
VIA MARMORATA
G. L.
V. DI S. S A BA BERNINI
Stazione CESTIA PIAZZA G I O T T O
Roma-Ostia V I A L E VIAL E G UIDO BACCELLI VIA D. TERME
Piramide DI CARACALLA S. SEBASTIANO
Stazione
VIA DI PORTA
Roma- Key
Ostiense
Sight / Place of interest
Pedestrian street
City walls
0 meters 750
0 yards 750
For keys to symbols see back flap
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1 St. Peter’s

Catholicism’s most sacred shrine, the . Dome
vast, marble-encrusted basilica draws The 137 m (448 ft)
dome, designed by
pilgrims and tourists from all over the Michelangelo, was not
world. A shrine was erected on the site completed until 1590,
of St. Peter’s tomb in the 2nd century long after his death.
and the first basilica was commissioned
by Constantine. Centuries later, in 1506,
Pope Julius II laid the first stone of a
new church while the original basilica
was still in use. The present basilica,
187 m (615 ft) long, took more than
a century to build and all the great
architects of the Roman Renaissance
and Baroque had a hand in its design.
The dominant tone of the interior is set
by Bernini, creator of the baldacchino
below Michelangelo’s
magnificent dome.






Baldacchino
Commissioned by Urban VIII
in 1624, Bernini’s extravagant
Baroque canopy stands
above the Papal Altar, a plain
slab of marble, at which only
the pope may say mass. The
altar is sited directly above the
tomb of St. Peter in the
Grottoes below.

KEY
1 The Treasury is reached via the Monument to Pope
Sacristy. It houses ecclesiastical Alexander VII
treasures, including reliquaries, Bernini’s last work in St. Peter’s was
tombs, and vestments. finished in 1678 and shows the pope
surrounded by the allegorical figures
2 The apse is dominated by of Truth, Justice, Charity,
Bernini’s spectacular bronze and Prudence.
monument containing the
Throne of St. Peter in Glory.
3 Two minor cupolas by
Vignola (1507–73).
4 The facade (1614) is by
Carlo Maderno, who lengthened
the basilica to create its Latin-
cross floorplan.
5 From this window, the pope
blesses the faithful gathered in the The Grottoes
piazza below. A fragment of this
6 The nave floor has markings that 13th-century mosaic by
show the lengths of other churches Giotto, salvaged from the old
compared with St. Peter’s. basilica, is now in the Grottoes,
where many popes are buried.
For hotels and restaurants see pp438–40 and pp441–3


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. Statue of St. Peter VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
This 13th-century bronze is thought to
be by Arnolfo di Cambio. The foot of the Practical Information
statue has worn thin from the kisses of Piazza San Pietro.
millions of pilgrims over the centuries. Tel 06-69 88 37 31.
∑ vatican.va
Basilica: Open 7am–7pm
(Oct–Mar: to 6:30pm) daily. 7
Treasury: Open 8am–7pm
(Oct–Mar: to 6:15pm) daily. &
Grottoes: Open 8am–6pm
(Oct–Mar: to 5:30pm) daily.
Dome: Open 8am–6pm
(Oct–Mar: to 5pm) daily. &
Strict dress code inside church.
Transport
q Ottaviano S. Pietro.
@ 23, 40, 49, 64, 81, 492.

. Michelangelo’s Pietà
Protected by glass since an attack in 1972,
the Pietà stands in the first side chapel on
the right. It was created in 1499 when
Michelangelo was only 25.











Filarete Door
This bronze door,
decorated with reliefs
by Filarete (1439–45),
was one of the doors
of the old St. Peter’s.








Entrance for stairs
to dome




Main entrance


Piazza San Pietro
The piazza in front of St. Peter’s is enclosed
by a vast pincer-shaped colonnade by
Bernini. It is topped by statues of saints.




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2 Vatican Museums

Four centuries of papal patronage and Gallery of the
connoisseurship have resulted in one of the Candelabra
Once an open
world’s great collections of Classical and loggia, this gallery
Renaissance art. The Vatican houses many of Greek and
of the great archaeological finds of central Roman sculpture
Italy, including the Laocoön group and the has a fine view
of the Vatican
Apollo del Belvedere. The museums are Gardens.
housed in palaces originally built for wealthy
Renaissance popes such as Innocent VIII,
Sixtus IV, and Julius II. Parts of these were Room of the Biga
decorated with wonderful frescoes by the (a two-horse
chariot)
finest painters of the age – most notably
the Borgia Apartment, the Raphael Rooms
and the Sistine Chapel (see p380).
Gallery of
Tapestries
Gallery of Maps
The gallery is an
important record
of 16th-century
cartography and
history. This painting Etruscan
shows the Turkish siege Museum
of Malta in 1565.





The Raphael Loggia
contains Raphael
frescoes, but special
permission is needed Upper floor
to visit it.







Sistine
Chapel






The Cortile
del Belvedere
was designed by
Bramante in 1506.
Raphael Rooms The Borgia Apartment,
This detail from the Expulsion of frescoed by Pinturicchio in
Heliodorus from the Temple contains a a highly decorative style
portrait of Julius II. It is one of a series in the 1490s, also houses
of frescoes painted by Raphael for the a collection of modern
pope’s private apartments (see p380). religious art.
For hotels and restaurants see pp438–40 and pp441–3


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Pio-Christian Room of the
Museum Animals VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
Gregorian Roman mosaics, Practical Information
Profane Museum like these ducks, Città del Vaticano (entrance
decorate the walls in Viale Vaticano).
and floor of this Tel 06-69 88 31 12.
room of animal Open 9am–6pm (last adm: 4pm)
sculptures.
Mon–Sat, 8:30am–2pm (last adm:
12:30pm) last Sun of month –
check website. Closed religious
Entrance and public hols. Special permit
required for Vatican Library,
Round Lapidary Gallery, & Vatican
Room Archives. & free last Sun of
month. 7 special routes.
∑ vatican.va
Transport
q Ottaviano S. Pietro, Cipro
Pinacoteca
Musei Vaticani. @ 49 to entrance,
23, 81, 492, 990.
Greek Cross Room Gallery of the
Statues
Simonetti
Staircase
Egyptian
Museum
Braccio
Nuovo
The Room of the Busts
contains portraits of
emperors and other
notable Romans.
Chiaramonti Museum


Vatican
Library Lower floor



Cortile della Pigna Apollo del Belvedere
This huge bronze pine This Roman copy of a
cone, part of an ancient Greek statue of the sun
Roman fountain, once god Apollo perfectly
Lapidary stood in the courtyard embodies the ideals
Gallery of old St. Peter’s. Its of Classical beauty.
niche was designed
by Pirro Ligorio.

Gallery Guide Key to Floorplan
Visitors have to follow a one-way system. It is best to Egyptian and Assyrian art
concentrate on a single collection or to choose one Greek and Roman art
of the suggested itineraries. These are color-coded so Etruscan and Italic art
that you can follow them throughout the museums. Early Christian and medieval art
They vary in length from 90 minutes to five hours. If
you are planning a long visit, make sure you allow 15th- to 19th-century art
plenty of time for resting. Conserve your stamina for Modern religious art
the Sistine Chapel and the Raphael Rooms; they are Non-exhibition space
20–30 minutes’ walk from the entrance, without Open by special permit only
allowing for any viewing time along the way.




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Exploring the side walls, painted between
Vatican’s Collections 1481 and 1483. Their subjects
are parallel episodes in the lives
of Moses and Christ.
The Vatican’s greatest treasures are its Greek and Roman In 1508–12, at the request
antiquities, which have been on display since the 18th of Pope Julius II, Michelangelo
century. The 19th century saw the addition of exciting created what has become his
discoveries from Etruscan tombs and excavations in Egypt. most famous work, the chapel
ceiling. The main panels chart
Then there are works by many of Italy’s greatest Renaissance the Creation of the World
artists housed in the Pinacoteca (art gallery) and decorating and Fall of Man. They are
the walls of chapels and papal apartments. surrounded by subjects from
the Old and New Testaments.
In 1534–41 Michelangelo
completed the chapel walls,
Christian Art painting The Last Judgment on
The Pio-Christian Museum the altar wall. It depicts the
has Early Christian art, such souls of the dead rising up to
as inscriptions and sculpture face the wrath of God and the
from catacombs and basilicas. damned being hurled down to
The first two rooms of the hell. The artist’s own tormented
Pinacoteca house medieval art, attitude to his faith is seen
including Giotto’s Stefaneschi in his self-portrait, painted on
Triptych (c.1300), which the skin held by the martyr,
decorated the main altar St. Bartholomew.
of the old St. Peter’s. Other
rooms in the Pinacoteca
The Laocoön, a Roman copy of a Greek contain Renaissance works. Raphael Rooms
original, excavated in Rome in 1506 15th-century highlights are a Pope Julius II chose Raphael
Pietà by Giovanni Bellini and (1483–1520) to redecorate four
Leonardo da Vinci’s unfinished rooms (stanze) of his apartments.
Ancient Art
St. Jerome. Exceptional The frescoes in the Room of the
The Egyptian collection 16th-century pieces include an Segnatura (1508–11) include the
contains finds from 19th- and altarpiece by Titian, a Deposition famous School of Athens, which
20th-century excavations, as by Caravaggio, St. Helen by centers on a debate between
well as items brought to Rome Paolo Veronese, and a whole Plato and Aristotle. Raphael
in Imperial times. There are also room devoted to Raphael. depicted Leonardo da Vinci and
Roman imitations of Egyptian Michelangelo as philosophers.
art. Genuine Egyptian works The decoration of the Room of
include the tomb of Iri, guardian The Sistine Chapel Heliodorus (1512–4) incorporates
of the Pyramid of Cheops (22nd The Sistine Chapel takes its a famous portrait of Julius II,
century BC). name from Pope Sixtus IV; it was whereas the Room of the Fire in
Prize Greek and Roman art in built in 1473 at his request. The the Borgo (1514–7) was painted
the Pio-Clementine Museum walls were frescoed by some during the reign of Pope Leo X,
includes Roman copies of the of the finest artists of the age, Julius II’s successor. All the
4th-century BC Greek statues including Signorelli, Botticelli, frescoes here exalt the new
Apoxyomenos and the Apollo del Roselli, Ghirlandaio, and pope or his earlier namesakes.
Belvedere, and a splendid Laocoön Perugino (who is credited with The Hall of Constantine
from the 1st century AD. having overseen the project). (1517–25) was largely the
The Chiaramonti Museum There are 12 frescoes on the work of Raphael’s pupils.
is lined with ancient busts,
and its extension, the Braccio
Nuovo, has a 1st-century BC
statue of Emperor Augustus.
The Etruscan Museum houses
a superb collection, including
the bronze throne, bed, and
funeral cart, found in the
650 BC Regolini-Galassi
tomb in Cerveteri.
In the Vatican Library is
the Aldobrandini Wedding,
a beautiful Roman fresco
from the 1st century AD. Original Sin, from Michelangelo’s fresco on the Sistine Chapel ceiling




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View across the Tiber to Castel Sant’Angelo, crowned by the figure of the angel that gave it its name
3 Castel also used it for sojourns with the 5 Santa Maria in
Sant’Angelo courtesan Imperia, who allegedly Trastevere
inspired one of the Three Graces
Lungotevere Castello 50. Tel 06-681 91 painted by Raphael in the Piazza Santa Maria in Trastevere.
11. @ 23, 34, 40, 280. Open Tue–Sun. Loggia of Cupid and Psyche. Tel 06-581 48 02. @ H, 23, 280,
Closed public hols. & 7 ∑ castel 630, 780. Open daily. 7
santangelo.beniculturali.it The simple, harmonious
design of the Farnesina, with Trastevere, the area “across the
This massive cylindrical fortress a central block and projecting Tiber,” is one of the city’s most
takes its name from the vision wings, made it one of the first attractive quarters: a maze of
of the Archangel Michael, true villas of the Renaissance. narrow, cobbled alleys. Once
experienced by Pope Gregory Peruzzi decorated some of the home to the city’s poor, it has
the Great in the 6th century, as interiors himself, such as the witnessed a proliferation of
he led a procession across the Sala della Prospettiva upstairs, fashionable clubs, restaurants,
bridge, fervently praying for in which illusionistic frescoes and boutiques.
the end of the plague. create the impression of looking At the heart of Trastevere,
The castle began life in out over Rome through a overlooking an attractive
AD 139 as the Emperor marble colonnade. traffic-free square stands
Hadrian’s mausoleum. Since The painted vault of the main the Basilica of Santa Maria –
then it has been a bridgehead hall, the Sala di Galatea, shows probably the first official place
in the Emperor Aurelian’s city the position of the stars at the of Christian worship in Rome.
wall, a medieval citadel and time of Chigi’s birth. After his It was founded by Pope
prison, and a place of safety for death the banking business Callixtus I in the 3rd century,
popes during times of war or collapsed, and in 1577 the villa when Christianity was still a
political unrest. was sold to the Farnese family. minority cult. According to
Visitors are given a glimpse legend, it was built on the
into all aspects of the castle’s site where a fountain of oil
history – from its dank prison had sprung up miraculously
cells to the lavish apartments on the day that Christ was born.
of Renaissance popes. The basilica became the
focus of devotion to the
Madonna. Mary and Christ are
4 Villa Farnesina among the figures depicted
Via della Lungara 230. Tel 06-68 02 72 in the facade mosaics (c.12th
68. @ H, 280, 780. Open Mon–Sat & century). In the apse is a
2nd Sun in month. Closed public hols. stylized 12th-century mosaic
& ∑ villafarnesina.it Coronation of the Virgin, and
below it, a series of realistic
The fabulously wealthy Sienese mosaic scenes from the life
banker, Agostino Chigi, commis- of Mary by the 13th-century
sioned this villa in 1508 from his artist Pietro Cavallini. The
fellow Sienese, Baldassare oldest image of the Virgin is a
Peruzzi. Chigi’s main home was 7th-century icon, which depicts
across the Tiber – the villa was Trompe l’oeil view in the Sala della her as a Byzantine empress
for extravagant banquets. Chigi Prospettiva, Villa Farnesina flanked by a guard of angels.
For hotels and restaurants see pp438–40 and pp441–3


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6 Piazza Navona
@ 40, 46, 62, 64, 81, 87, 116, 492, 628.
Rome’s most spectactular
Baroque piazza follows the
shape of a 1st-century AD
stadium, built by Domitian
and used for athletic contests
(agones), chariot races, and
other sports. The foundations
of the surrounding buildings
come from the ruined stadium,
traces of which are visible below
the church of Sant’ Agnese in
Agone. The church, created by
the architects Girolamo and
Carlo Rainaldi and Francesco
Borromini, is dedicated to the The Pantheon, a place of worship since the 2nd century AD
virgin martyr, St. Agnes. When
she was stripped naked to force personifying the world’s fronted by a massive
her to renounce her faith, her greatest known rivers at the pedimented portico, screening
hair grew miraculously long, time – the Nile, the Plate, the what appears to be a cylinder
concealing her body. Ganges, and the Danube – fused to a shallow dome. Only
The piazza began to take on sitting on rocks below an from the inside can the true
its present appearance in the obelisk. Bernini also sculpted scale and beauty of the temple
17th century, when Pope the muscle-bound Moor in the be appreciated; a vast
Innocent X commissioned Fontana del Moro, though the hemispherical dome equal
a new church, palace, and present statue is a copy. in radius to the height of
fountain. The fountain, the the cylinder gives perfectly
Fontana dei Quattro Fiumi, harmonious proportions to the
is Bernini’s most magnificent, 7 Pantheon building. A circular opening in
with statues of four gods Piazza della Rotonda. Tel 06-68 30 02 30. the center of the coffered dome,
@ 116 & many others. Open daily. the oculus, lets in the only light.
Closed Jan 1, May 1, Dec 25. 7 In the 7th century, Christians
claimed that they were being
The Pantheon, the Roman plagued by demons as they
“temple of all the gods,” is the passed by, and permission was
most extraordinary and best given to turn the Pantheon
preserved ancient building in into a church. Today it is lined
Rome. The first temple on the with tombs, ranging from the
site is thought to have restrained monument to
been a conventional Raphael to the huge marble
rectangular affair and porphyry sarcophagi
erected by Agrippa holding the bodies of Italian
between 27 and 25 BC. monarchs.
The present
structure was built, 8 Galleria Doria
and possibly designed,
by Emperor Hadrian in Pamphilj
AD 118. The temple is Via del Corso 305. Tel 06-678 09 39.
@ 64, 70, 81, 85, 117, 119, 492.
Open daily. Closed Jan 1, Easter Sun,
May 1, Aug 15, Dec 25. & 7
∑ doriapamphilj.it
Galleria Doria Pamphilj is a
vast stone edifice, whose
oldest parts date from 1435.
It was owned by the della
Rovere family and then by the
Aldobrandini family, before the
Pamphilj family took possession
of it in 1647. The Pamphilj
Personification of the Ganges, Fontana dei Quattro Fiumi, Piazza Navona added a new wing, a splendid
For hotels and restaurants see pp438–40 and pp441–3


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chapel, and a theater. The family added by Il Baciccia during the
art collection has over 400 17th century. The painting in
paintings dating from the 15th the nave depicts the Triumph
to the 18th century, including of the Name of Jesus and its
a portrait of Pope Innocent X message is clear: faithful,
by Velázquez and works by Catholic worshippers will be
Caravaggio, Titian, Guercino, joyfully uplifted to heaven
and Claude Lorrain. The opulent while Protestants and heretics
rooms of the private apartments are flung into the fires of hell.
retain many of their original The message is reiterated in
furnishings, including Brussels the Cappella di Sant’Ignazio,
and Gobelins tapestries, Murano a rich display of lapis lazuli,
chandeliers, and a gilded crib. serpentine, silver, and gold.
In the first half of the 18th The Baroque marble by Pierre
century, Gabriele Valvassori Legros, Triumph of Faith over
created the gallery above the Idolatry, shows a female Statue of Marcus Aurelius in the center of
courtyard and a new facade “Religion” trampling on the Piazza del Campidoglio
along the Corso, using the head of the serpent “Idolatry.”
highly decorative style of The Palazzo dei Conservatori
the period, known as the 0 Capitoline had been the seat of the city’s
barocchetto, which now magistrates during the late
dominates the building. Museums Middle Ages. Its frescoed halls
Musei Capitolini, Piazza del are still used occasionally for
Campidoglio. Tel 06-06 08. @ 63, 64, political meetings and the
70, 75 & many others. Open Tue–Sun. ground floor houses the
Closed Jan 1, May 1, Dec 25. & 8 municipal registry office. The
7 ∑ museicapitolini.org current building was begun in
1536, built by Giacomo della
When Emperor Charles V Porta, who also carried out
announced he was to visit Michelangelo’s other designs
Rome in 1536, Pope Paul III for Piazza del Campidoglio.
asked Michelangelo to give A collection of Classical
the Capitol, formerly the citadel statues has been kept on the
of Ancient Rome, a facelift. Capitoline Hill since the
He redesigned the piazza, Renaissance. When the Palazzo
renovated the facades of Nuovo was completed, some
its palaces and built a new of the statues were transferred
staircase, the Cordonata. This there. In 1734, Pope Clement XII
Triumph of Faith over Heresy by Pierre gently rising ramp is now decreed that the building be
Legros in the Gesù crowned with the massive turned into the world’s first
9 Gesù Classical statues of Castor public museum.
and Pollux.
The museum is still
Piazza del Gesù. Tel 06-69 70 01. The Capitoline Museums, devoted chiefly to
@ many routes. Open daily. the Palazzo Nuovo, and the sculpture. Most of its
Palazzo dei Conservatori finest works, such as
The Gesù, built between 1568 stand on opposite sides The Dying Galatian, are
and 1584, was Rome’s first Jesuit of the impressive Piazza Roman copies of Greek
church. The Jesuit order was del Campidoglio. masterpieces. There are
founded in Rome in 1537 by a Since 2000, they also two collections of
Basque soldier, Ignatius Loyola, have been connected busts, assembled in the
who became a Christian after via a subterranean 18th century, of the
he was wounded in battle. The passage. In the philosophers and poets
order was intellectual, austere, center of the piazza of ancient Greece and the
and heavily engaged in teaching is an equestrian rulers of ancient Rome.
and missionary activities. statue of Marcus Although much
The much-imitated design Aurelius (it is a of the museum
of the Gesù typifies Counter copy; the original is given over to
Reformation architecture: a bronze is in the Esquiline Venus, sculpture, it also
large nave with side pulpits Palazzo Nuovo). Capitoline Museums houses a collection
for preaching to crowds, and The facade of the Palazzo of porcelain, and its art
a main altar as the centerpiece Nuovo was designed by galleries contain various
for the mass. The illusionistic Michelangelo, but the work was works by Veronese, Titian,
decoration that covers the nave finished in 1655 by the brothers Caravaggio, Rubens, van
ceiling and the dome was Carlo and Girolamo Rainaldi. Dyck, and Tintoretto.




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Ancient Rome Hill, before walking around.
From there you can make out
Traces of ancient Rome are visible all over the city, occasionally the Via Sacra, the route of
a whole building, often just a column from a temple or an arch religious and triumphal
of an aqueduct recycled in a later construction. The major processions.
archaeological sites are to be found along Via dei Fori The best preserved
monuments are two triumphal
Imperiali, which runs from Piazza Venezia to the Colosseum. arches. The Arch of Titus
On the north side lie Trajan’s Markets and the forums of commemorates the crushing
various emperors; on the south side are the Roman Forum of the Jewish Revolt by Titus
and the Palatine Hill. Many museums hold extensive in AD 70. The later Arch of
collections of antiquities excavated in the city. Septimius Severus (AD 203)
records the emperor’s victories
libraries. Dominating the ruins over the Parthians.
today is Trajan’s Column. Most of the other ruins are
Spiralling up its 30 m (98 ft) temples or basilicas. The latter
high stem are minutely detailed were huge public buildings,
scenes showing episodes from which served as law courts
Trajan’s successful campaigns in and places of business. At the
Dacia (present-day Romania). western end of the forum are the
scant remains of the Basilica
Julia, named after Julius Caesar,
w Roman Forum and the earlier Basilica Aemilia.
Entrances: Via di San Gregonio and Via Close to the latter stands the
della Salara Vecchia 56. Tel 06-39 96 reconstructed Curia, where the
77 00. q Colosseo. @ 60, 75, 85, 87, Roman Senate once met.
117, 175, 186, 810, 850. Open daily. The eastern end of the Forum
Closed Jan 1, May 1, Dec 25. & is dominated by the shell of the
Romans fortifying a town in a detail from (includes entry to the Colosseum Basilica of Constantine and
Trajan’s Column and Palatine). ∑ coopculture.it Maxentius (4th century AD). The
adjacent Temple of Romulus is
q Trajan’s Markets The Forum was the center of now part of a church. Cross the
political, commercial, and judicial Via Sacra from here to see the
Via IV Novembre 94. Tel 06-06 08.
@ 40, 60, 171. Open Tue–Sun. life in ancient Rome. As Rome’s partly reconstructed Temple of
Closed public hols. & population grew, however, this Vesta and the House of the
∑ mercatiditraiano.it ancient Forum became too Vestal Virgins.
small, so Julius Caesar built a Further east past the Arch of
Originally considered among new one (46 BC). This move Titus are the extensive ruins of
the wonders of the Classical was emulated by successive the Temple of Venus and Rome,
world, Trajan’s Markets now emperors. The newer forums are built in AD 121 by Hadrian.
show only a hint of their known as the “Imperial Fora.” Attached to the ruined temple is
former splendor. The ruins of the Roman Forum the church of Santa Francesca
Emperor Trajan and his date from many eras and the Romana – patron saint of
architect, Apollodorus of layout is confusing. It is a good motorists. On March 9, drivers
Damascus, built this visionary idea to view them from the bring their cars here to have
complex of 150 shops and vantage point of the Capitoline them blessed.
offices in the early 2nd century
AD. The Markets sold everything
from Middle Eastern silks and
spices to fresh fish, fruit, and
flowers. It was also the place
where the corn dole was
administered; a free ration
for Roman men.
Shops opened early and
closed about noon. Almost
all the shopping was done by
men and the traders were
almost exclusively male.
The Forum of Trajan (AD
107–13) was built in front of the
market complex. It was a vast
colonnaded open space with a
huge basilica, and included two Central garden of the House of the Vestal Virgins, Roman Forum
For hotels and restaurants see pp438–40 and pp441–3


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ROME  385


r Colosseum Ancient Roman Sites
Piazza del Colosseo. Tel 06-3996 77 00. and Museums
q Colosseo. @ 75, 81, 85, 87, 117,
175, 673, 810. v 3. Open daily. Closed Practical Information
Jan 1, May 1, Dec 25. & (includes Baths of Caracalla:
entry to the Palatine and Forum). Viale delle Terme di Caracalla 52.
8 7 limited. ∑ coopculture.it Tel 06-39 96 77 00. Open Tue–
Sun & Mon am. & 8
Rome’s great amphitheater, Extensive ruins of bath complex
commissioned by the Emperor built in AD 217.
Vespasian in AD 72, was built Theatre of Marcellus:
on the marshy site of a lake in Via del Teatro di Marcello.
the grounds of Nero’s palace. Open daily. An Imperial theater,
It is likely that the arena took which later housed a number
of medieval shops.
its name, not from its own size, Museo Nazionale Romano:
but from that of an enormous Palazzo Massimo, Largo di Villa
statue, the Colossus of Nero, Peretti 1. Tel 06-39 36 77 00.
Ruins of oval fountain in the Domus Flavia that stood nearby. Open Tue–Sun. & 7
on the Palatine The Colosseum was the site of Sculpture, mosaics, wall-paintings,
deadly gladiatorial combats and and a Roman mummy. Another
e Palatine wild animal fights, staged free branch of the museum is at the
of charge by the emperor and Baths of Diocletian across the road.
Entrances: Via di San Gregorio and
near the Arch of Titus on Via Sacra. wealthy citizens. It was built to Palazzo Altemps:
Tel 06-39 96 77 00. q Colosseo. @ a very practical design, its 80 Piazza Sant’Apollinare 44.
60, 75, 81, 160, 175 & many others. v entrances allowing easy access Tel 06-39 36 77 00.
3. Open daily. Closed public hols. & for 55,000 spectators. Open Tue–Sun. & 7
(includes entry to the Colosseum and Excavations in the 19th century Fine collection of Classical
Forum). 8 ∑ coopculture.it exposed a network of rooms statuary set in a beautiful
under the arena, from which Renaissance palazzo.
The Palatine, the hill where the animals could be released. Temples of the Forum Boarium:
Piazza della Bocca della Verità.
Roman aristocracy lived and The four tiers of the outside Two miraculously preserved
emperors built their palaces, is walls were built in differing Republican-era temples.
the most pleasant and relaxing styles. The lower three are
of the city’s ancient sites. arched; the bottom with Doric Transport
Shaded by pines and carpeted columns, the next with Ionic, Baths of Caracalla: q Circo
with wild flowers in the spring, and the third with Corinthian. Massimo. @ 160, 628. v 3.
it is dominated by the imposing The top level supported a huge Theatre of Marcellus @ 30, 44,
ruins of the Domus Augustana awning, used to shade 63, 81, 95, 130, 160, 170, 271, 628,
630, 715, 716, 780, 781.
and the Domus Flavia, two spectators from the sun. Museo Nazionale Romano:
parts of Domitian’s huge Beside the Colosseum stands q Repubblica, Termini.
palace (1st century AD). the Arch of Constantine, @ 36, 38, 64, 86, 110, 170, 175,
Other remains here include commemorating Constantine’s H, and many others to Piazza
the House of Augustus and victory in AD 312 over his dei Cinquecento.
the House of Livia, where the co-emperor Maxentius. Most Palazzo Altemps: @ 70, 81, 115,
Emperor Augustus lived with his of the medallions, reliefs, and 116, 280, 492, 628.
wife Livia; and the Cryptoporticus, statues were scavenged from Temples of the Forum Boarium:
a long underground gallery earlier monuments. Inside the @ 44, 81, 95, 160, 170, 280, 628,
built by Nero. arch are reliefs showing one 715, 716.
The Huts of Romulus, not far of Trajan’s victories.
from the House of Augustus, are
Iron Age huts (10th century BC),
which provide archaeological
support for the area’s legendary
links with the founding of Rome.
According to legend, Romulus
and Remus grew up on this
hill in the 8th century BC.
After admiring the ancient
sights, visit the Farnese
Gardens, created in the mid-
16th century by Cardinal
Alessandro Farnese, with tree-
lined avenues, rose gardens,
and glorious views. The Colosseum, a majestic sight despite centuries of damage and neglect



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t Santa Maria
Maggiore
Piazza di Santa Maria Maggiore.
Tel 06-69 88 68 00. q Termini,
Cavour. @ 16, 70, 71, 714. v 14.
Open daily. 8
Of all the great Roman basilicas,
Santa Maria has the most
successful blend of different
architectural styles. Its colonnaded
triple nave is part of the original
5th-century building; the marble
floor and Romanesque bell tower,
with its blue ceramic roundels, are
medieval; the Renaissance saw a
new coffered ceiling; and the
Baroque gave the church twin
domes and its imposing front
and rear facades.
Santa Maria is most famous for
its mosaics. Those in the nave
and on the triumphal arch date
from the 5th century. Medieval
mosaics include a 13th-century
enthroned Christ in the loggia
and Jacopo Torriti’s Coronation
of the Virgin (1295) in the apse.
The gilded ceiling was a gift The Spanish Steps, with the church of Trinità dei Monti above
of Alexander VI, the Borgia
pope. The gold used is said largest and most famous u Spanish Steps
to be the first brought back fountain was completed only Scalinata della Trinità dei Monti, Piazza
from America by Columbus. in 1762. The central figure is di Spagna. q Spagna. @ 116, 117,
Neptune, flanked by two Tritons. 119, 590.
y Trevi Fountain One Triton struggles to master a The steps, which link the church
very unruly “sea-horse,” the other
Piazza di Trevi. @ 52, 53, 61, 62, 63, 71, leads a far more docile animal. of Trinità dei Monti with Piazza di
80, 95, 116, 119 & many others. These symbolize the two Spagna below, were completed
contrasting moods of the sea. in 1726. They combine straight
Most visitors gathering around The site was originally the sections, curves, and terraces
the coin-filled fountain assume terminal of the Aqua Virgo to create one of the city’s
that it has always been there, aqueduct (19 BC). A relief shows most dramatic and distinctive
but by the standards of the the legendary virgin, after landmarks. To the right as you
Eternal City, the Trevi is a fairly whom the aqueduct was look at the steps from the square
recent creation. Nicola Salvi’s named, pointing to the spring is the Keats-Shelley Memorial
theatrical design for Rome’s from which the water flows. House, a small museum in the
house where the poet John Keats
died of consumption in 1821.
In the 19th century the
steps were a meeting place
for artists’ models; today they
are filled with people sitting,
writing postcards, taking
photos, flirting, busking, or
just watching the passers-by.
Eating here is not allowed.
The steps overlook Via
Condotti and the surrounding
streets. In the 18th century this
area was full of hotels for
foreigners doing the Grand Tour.
It now contains the smartest
Trevi Fountain, the most famous of Rome’s Baroque landmarks shops in Rome.
For hotels and restaurants see pp438–40 and pp441–3


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i Santa Maria del notorious work is a sculpture by
Popolo Canova of Pauline Borghese as
Piazza del Popolo 12. Tel 06-361 08 36. Venus Victrix (1805), in which the
q Flaminio. @ 95, 117, 119, 120, semi-naked Pauline reclines on
150, 491. Open daily. a chaise longue.
The Galleria Borghese, on the
Santa Maria del Popolo was upper floor, houses some fine
commissioned by Sixtus IV in Renaissance and Baroque
1472. After his death in 1484, the paintings. These include
pope’s family chapel, the Della Raphael’s Deposition, along with
Rovere Chapel (first on the right), works by Pinturicchio, Correggio,
was frescoed by Pinturicchio. Caravaggio, Rubens, and Titian.
In 1503, Sixtus IV’s nephew Within the Villa Borghese park
Giuliano became Pope Julius II are other museums and
and had Bramante build a new galleries, foreign academies, a
apse. Pinturicchio was called in zoo, schools of archaeology, an
again to paint its vaults with artificial lake, and an array of
Sibyls and Apostles framed by Detail from Bernini’s Rape of Proserpine in fountains and follies.
freakish beasts. the Museo Borghese
In 1513, Raphael created the p Villa Giulia
Chigi Chapel (second on the nephew of Pope Paul V. The park
left) – a Renaissance fusion of was the first of its kind in Rome. Piazzale di Villa Giulia 9. Tel 06-322 65
the sacred and profane – for It was laid out with 400 pine 71. @ 52, 88, 95, 490, 495 926,. v 3,
the banker Agostino Chigi. trees, sculpture by Bernini, 19. Open Tue–Sun. Closed Jan 1, May
Bernini later added the statues and dramatic water features. 1, Dec 25. & 8 audio. 7
of Daniel and Habakkuk. In The villa was used for
the Cerasi Chapel, left of the entertaining and displaying Villa Giulia was built as a
altar, are two Caravaggios: the cardinal’s impressive country retreat for Pope Julius
The Crucifixion of St Peter and collection of paintings and III. Today, it houses a world-
The Conversion of St Paul. sculpture. Unfortunately, famous collection of Etruscan
between 1801 and 1809, Prince and other pre-Roman remains.
Camillo Borghese, husband to There are fascinating pieces
Napoleon’s sister Pauline, sold of jewelry, bronzes, mirrors,
many of these to his brother- and a marvelous terracotta
in-law, and swapped 200 of sarcophagus of a husband
Scipione’s Classical statues for and wife from Cerveteri.
an estate in Piedmont. The The delightful villa was the
statues are still in the Louvre. work of architects Vasari and
However, some Classical treasures Vignola, and the sculptor
remain, including fragments Ammannati. Michelangelo
of a 3rd-century AD mosaic of also contributed. At the center
gladiators fighting wild animals. of the garden is a nympheum –
The highlights of the a sunken courtyard decorated
remaining collection are the with mosaics, statues, and
sculptures by the young Bernini. fountains, built in imitation
Apollo and Daphne (1624), of ancient Roman models.
shows the nymph Daphne
being transformed into a laurel
The Chigi Chapel in Santa Maria del Popolo, tree to escape being abducted
designed by Raphael by Apollo. Other striking works
are The Rape of Proserpine and a
o Museo e Galleria David, whose face is said to be a
Borghese self-portrait of Bernini. The most
Piazzale Scipione Borghese 5. Tel
06-328 10 (reservations). @ 52, 53,
910. v 3, 19. Open Tue–Sun
(reservations obligatory). Closed Jan
1, May 1, Dec 25. & ∑ galleria
borghese.beniculturali.it

The Villa Borghese and its park
were designed in 1605 for The cheerful figures of an Etruscan married couple on their
Cardinal Scipione Borghese, sarcophagus, Villa Giulia




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Assisi: Basilica di San Francesco

The burial place of St. Francis, this basilica was begun in 1228,
two years after the saint’s death. Over the next century, its
Upper and Lower Churches were decorated by the foremost
artists of their day, among them Cimabue, Simone Martini,
Pietro Lorenzetti, and Giotto, whose frescoes of the Life of St.
Francis are some of the most renowned in Italy. Many of the
basilica’s frescoes were badly damaged in the
earthquake that hit Assisi in 1997, but all have
been restored. The basilica, which dominates
Assisi, is one of the great Christian shrines . Cappella di San Martino
and receives vast numbers of pilgrims The frescoes in this chapel
throughout the year. on the life of St. Martin (1315)
are by the Sienese painter
Simone Martini. This panel
shows the death of the Saint.
Martini was also responsible
for the fine stained glass
in the chapel.




. Frescoes by Lorenzetti
The bold composition of
Pietro Lorenzetti’s fresco,
entitled The Deposition
(1323), is based around
the truncated Cross,
focusing attention on the
twisted figure of Christ.











. Frescoes by Giotto
The Ecstasy of St. Francis
is one of 28 panels that
make up Giotto’s cycle on
the Life of St. Francis (c.1290–95).
KEY
1 A Renaissance portico shelters 5 St. Francis, Cimabue’s simple 8 The Upper Church
the original Gothic portal of the painting (c.1280), captures the has soaring Gothic vaulting
Lower Church. humility of the revered saint, painted with a starry sky,
who stood for poverty, chastity, symbolizing the heavenly
2 The crypt contains the tomb and obedience. glory of St. Francis. Its style
of St. Francis.
6 The choir (1501) features a influenced that of many
3 Steps to the Treasury 13th-century stone papal throne. later Franciscan churches.
4 The vaulting of the Lower 7 Faded paintings by Roman 9 The facade and its rose
Church is covered almost entirely artists line the walls above Giotto’s window are early examples
in frescoes. Life of St. Francis. of Italian Gothic.

For hotels and restaurants see pp438–40 and pp441–3


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IT AL Y  389


VISITORS’ CHECKLIST Vannucci (Perugino). It is
dominated by Umbria’s finest
Practical Information building, the monumental
Piazza San Francesco, Assisi. Palazzo dei Priori. Among its
Tel 075-819 001. richly decorated rooms is the
∑ sanfrancescoassisi.org Sala dei Notari or Lawyers’ Hall
Open daily. 8 7 (c.1295), vividly frescoed with
Transport scenes from the Old Testament.
£ @ Superlative frescoes (1498–1500)
by Perugino cover the walls of
the Collegio del Cambio,
Perugia’s medieval money
exchange. The Galleria
Nazionale dell’Umbria on
Entrance to the third floor displays a fine
Upper Church The ancient Tempio di Minerva in the Piazza collection of paintings.
del Comune, Assisi The Cappella del Santo Anello
in Perugia’s 15th- century
2 Assisi Duomo houses the Virgin’s
agate “wedding ring,” said to
* 25,000. £ @ n Piazza del
Comune 22 (075-813 86 80). ( Sat. change color according to the
∑ visit-assisi.it character of its wearer. The
Renaissance Madonna delle
This beautiful medieval town, Grazie by Gian Nicola di Paolo
with its geranium-hung streets, hangs in the nave.
lovely views, and fountain- On Piazza San Francesco, the
splashed piazzas, is heir to the Oratorio di San Bernardino
legacy of St. Francis (c.1181– (1457–61), has a colorful façade
1226), who is buried in the by Agostino di Duccio. Beyond
Basilica di San Francesco. the old city walls, the 10th-
Piazza del Comune, Assisi’s century San Pietro is Perugia’s
main square, is dominated by most extravagantly decorated
the columns of the Tempio di church. San Domenico (1305–
Minerva, a Roman temple-front 1632), on Piazza Giordano
from the Augustan age. The Bruno, is Umbria’s largest
Palazzo Comunale, opposite, church. It houses the tomb
houses an art gallery, the of Pope Benedict XI (c.1304)
Pinacoteca Comunale. and the Museo Archeologico
The town has many other Nazionale dell’Umbria, a
interesting churches. On Corso collection of prehistoric,
Mazzini is the Basilica di Santa Etruscan, and Roman artifacts.
Chiara. Here, St. Clare – Francis’s
companion and the founder of E Galleria Nazionale dell’Umbria
the Poor Clares (an order of Corso Vannucci 19. Tel 075-572 10 09.
nuns) – is buried. The Duomo Open Tue–Sun. Closed Jan 1, May 1,
has a superb Romanesque Dec 25. & 7
facade. San Pietro is a simple,
well-restored Romanesque
church, while the nearby
Oratorio dei Pellegrini, a
15th-century pilgrims’ hospice,
contains well-preserved
frescoes by Matteo da Gualdo.

3 Perugia
* 160,000. £ @ n Piazza
Matteotti 19, Loggia dei Lanari
(075-572 64 58). ( Tue, Thu, Sat.
∑ turismo.comune.perugia.it
The rose window is framed Perugia’s old center hinges
by the carved symbols of the around Corso Vannucci, named Palazzo dei Priori, Perugia’s imposing
four Evangelists. after the local painter Pietro medieval town hall




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4 Street by Street: Siena

Siena’s principal sights cluster in the maze of narrow
streets and alleys around the fan-shaped Piazza del
Campo. One of Europe’s greatest medieval squares, the
piazza sits at the heart of the city’s 17 contrade, the
historic districts whose ancient rivalries are still acted
out in the twice-yearly Palio (see p392). Loyalty to the
contrada of one’s birth is fierce, and as you wander
the streets you will see the parishes’ animal symbols
repeated on flags, plaques, and carvings.
The Duomo dominating Siena’s skyline
Bus station

Train station V I A B A N C H I D I S O P R A
Via della Galluzza
leads to the house of
St. Catherine, Siena’s VIA D. GALLUZZA PIAZZA
patron saint (see p392). INDIPENDENZA
The Baptistry has V I A B A N C H I D I S O T T O
fine frescoes and
a font with reliefs
by Donatello,
Jacopo della VIA DI FONTEBRANDA V I A D I D I A C C E T O
Quercia, and
Ghiberti.
. Duomo
Striped black and white PIA ZZ A
marble pillars, surmounted DEL
by a carved frieze of the VIA DEI PELLEGRINI
popes, support the Duomo’s PIAZZA SAN C AMPO
vaulted ceiling, painted blue VIA FRANCIOSA GIOVANNI
with gold stars to resemble
the night sky (see p392).
V I A D E L F U S A R I
Each tier of the Duomo’s bell
tower has one more window
than the floor below.

Cafés and shops fill A T T I
the streets around V I A D E L P O G G I O C
Piazza del Duomo. PIAZZA DEL I
DUOMO A D
V I




V I A D E L C A P I T A N O

Key
Suggested route
Museo dell’Opera
del Duomo
The museum (see p392) houses weathered sculptures 0 meters 300
from the cathedral, including this battered she-wolf 0 yards 300
suckling Romulus and Remus.
For hotels and restaurants see pp438–40 and pp441–3


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IT AL Y  391

Loggia della Mercanzia P Palazzo Pubblico
This graceful arcade (1417) Piazza del Campo 1. Tel 0577-29 21 11.
was used by Siena’s Museo Civico & Torre del Mangia
medieval merchants Tel 0577-22 62 30. Open daily.
and money dealers.
Closed Dec 25. &
Although the Palazzo Pubblico
(1297–1342) continues in its
ancient role as Siena’s town hall,
the Museo Civico is also housed
here. Many of the rooms, some
decorated with paintings of the
Sienese School, are open to the
Palazzo Piccolomini, public. They include the main
council chamber, or Sala del
built in 1460, now holds
V I A B A N C H I D I S O P R A Tourist archives. Many of the map of the world painted here
Mappamondo, named after a
the Sienese state
by Ambrogio Lorenzetti in the
original painted wooden
information
early 14th century. One wall is
bindings are on display.
covered by Simone Martini’s
fresco Maestà (1315), which
depicts the Virgin in Majesty.
The Sala della Pace houses the
Government, a pair of frescoes
V I A R I N A L D I N A VIA DI PANTANETO famous Allegory of Good and Bad
V I A B A N C H I D I S O T T O
by Lorenzetti finished in 1338.
In the palace courtyard is the
magnificent Torre del Mangia
bell tower, which offers superb
views of the city.
P Piazza del Campo
PIA ZZ A Italy’s loveliest piazza occupies
VIA DEL PORRIONE
DEL the site of the old Roman forum,
and for much of Siena’s early
C AMPO history was the city’s principal
marketplace. The Council of
Nine, Siena’s ruling body, gave
the order for work to start on
the piazza in 1293. The red-brick
paving was finished in 1349. It is
divided into nine sections,
DEL
MERCATO Fonte Gaia representing not only the
VIA DI SALICOTTO
The reliefs on the fountain authority of the council, but
are 19th-century copies of also the protective folds of the
the 15th-century originals Madonna’s cloak. The piazza has
VIA DUPRE
by Jacopo della Quercia. been the focus of city life ever
since, a setting for executions,
bullfights, and the drama of the
Palio. Cafés, restaurants, and fine
VISITORS’ CHECKLIST medieval palazzi now line the
square, which is dominated by
Practical Information the Palazzo Pubblico and the
* 60,000. Torre del Mangia.
n Piazza del Campo 56
(0577-28 05 51). ( Wed.
_ Palio (Jul 2, Aug 16); Estate
Musicale Chigiana – classical
music concerts (Jul–Sep).
∑ terresiena.it
. Palazzo Pubblico
The graceful Gothic town hall was Transport
completed in 1342. At 102 m (330 £ Piazzale Rosselli. @ Piazza
ft), the bell tower, the Torre del San Domenico.
Mangia, is the second highest Piazza del Campo, viewed from the top of
medieval tower ever built in Italy. the Torre del Mangia
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392  IT AL Y AND GREECE

Exploring Siena

Once a capital to rival Florence, Siena is still unspoiled and
endowed with the grandeur of the age in which it was at its
peak (1260–1348). The magnificent Duomo is one of Italy’s
greatest cathedrals. The best place to begin an exploration
of the historic city center is Piazza del Campo and the
surrounding maze of medieval streets. Siena’s hilly position
means that walks through the city are rewarded with
countless sudden views of the surrounding countryside.

exterior of the Duomo, Massacre of the Innocents, a detail from the
including a tondo Duomo’s marble floor
(circular relief) of a
Madonna and Child, of a chapel dedicated to her
probably by Donatello. in this huge, barn-like Gothic
The highlight is Duccio’s church. Built in 1460, the chapel
huge altarpiece, Maestà is dominated by Sodoma’s
(1308–11), which depicts frescoes (1526), which show
the Madonna and Child Catherine in states of religious
on one side, and Scenes fervor. The church has the
from the Life of Christ on only portrait of St. Catherine
the other. considered authentic, painted
by her friend Andrea Vanni.
E Pinacoteca St. Catherine’s house, the
Nazionale Casa di Santa Caterina, is also
Via San Pietro 29. Tel 0577-28 a popular shrine for visitors
61 43. Open daily. Closed to Siena.
Sun & Mon pm, Jan 1, May 1,
Richly decorated facade of Siena’s Duomo Dec 25. & 7 + Fortezza Medicea
Housed in the Palazzo Viale Maccari. Fortezza: Open Mon–
R Duomo Buonsignori, this gallery Sat. Enoteca Italiana: Piazza Libertà 1.
Piazza del Duomo. Tel 0577-28 30 48. contains an unsurpassed Tel 0577-22 88 11. Open noon–1am
Open daily. Closed Sun am. Museo collection of paintings by Mon–Sat. &
dell’Opera del Duomo: Tel 0577-28 30 artists of the Sienese School. This huge red-brick fortress
48. Open Mar–May: 9:30am–7pm Highlights include Duccio’s was built by Cosimo I in 1560,
daily; Jun–Aug: 9:30am–8pm daily; Madonna dei Francescani (1285) following Siena’s defeat by
Sep & Oct: 9:30am–7pm daily; Nov– and Simone Martini’s The Blessed Florence in the 1554–5 war.
Feb: 10am–5pm daily. Closed Jan 1, Agostino Novello and Four of his After an 18-month siege, during
Dec 25. &
Miracles (c.1330). which more than 8,000 Sienese
Siena’s cathedral (1136–1382) is died, the town’s banking and
a spectacular example of Pisan- R San Domenico wool industries were suppressed
influenced Romanesque- Piazza San Domenico. Open daily. by the Florentines.
Gothic architecture. Had the The preserved head of the city’s The fortress now houses
14th-century plan to create a patroness, St. Catherine of Siena the Enoteca Italiana, where
new nave come to fruition, it (1347–80), can be seen in a you can taste and buy
would have become the largest gilded tabernacle on the altar Italian wines.
church in Christendom, but the
idea was abandoned when the
Black Death of 1348 virtually The Palio
halved the city’s population. The Palio is Tuscany’s most celebrated festival
Among the Duomo’s treasures and it occurs in the Campo each year on July 2
are sculptural masterpieces by and August 16. This bareback horse race was first
Nicola Pisano, Donatello, and recorded in 1283, but it may have had its origins
Michelangelo, a fine inlaid in Roman military training. The jockeys represent
marble floor, and a magnificent Siena’s 17 contrade (districts) and the horses are
fresco cycle by Pinturicchio. chosen by the drawing of lots. Preceded by
In the side aisle of the days of colorful pageantry and heavy
unfinished nave, which has betting, the races themselves last
been roofed over, is the Museo only 90 seconds each, the Drummer taking part
dell’Opera del Duomo. The winner being rewarded with in the Palio’s noisy
a silk palio (banner).
museum is devoted mainly to pre-race pageant
sculpture removed from the
For hotels and restaurants see pp438–40 and pp441–3


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IT AL Y  393


Florentine art from the 12th
to the 17th centuries. Major
15th-century works include
Masaccio’s St. Paul, Gentile da
Fabriano’s radiant Madonna of
Humility, and Donatello’s
reliquary bust of San Rossore.
E Museo Nazionale
di San Matteo
Piazza San Matteo 1. Tel 050-54 18 65.
Open Tue–Sun. Closed Sun pm. &
The skyline of San Gimignano, bristling with medieval towers
8 Lucca
5 San Gimignano architecture, its four-tiered facade
an intricate medley of creamy * 85,000. £ @ n Piazzale Verdi
Siena. * 7,000. @ n Piazza del colonnades and blind arcades. (0583-58 31 50). ( Wed, Sat, 3rd Sun
Duomo 1 (0577-94 00 08). ( Thu. Inside, highlights include a of month (antiques). ∑ luccaitinera.it
_ San Gimignano (Jan 31). pulpit (1302–11) by Giovanni
∑ sangimignano.com
Pisano and a mosaic of Christ in The city of Lucca is still enclosed
Majesty by Cimabue (1302). within its 17th-century walls,
The thirteen towers that Begun in 1173 on sandy silt and visitors can stroll along the
dominate San Gimignano’s subsoil, the famous Leaning ramparts, which were converted
skyline were built by rival noble Tower (Torre Pendente) was into a public park in the early
families in the 12th and 13th completed in 1350. The tower 19th century. Within the walls,
centuries, when the town’s has attracted many visitors over narrow lanes wind among dark
position on the main pilgrim the centuries, including Galileo, medieval buildings, opening
route to Rome brought it great who came here to conduct suddenly to reveal stunning
prosperity. The plague of 1348, experiments on falling objects. churches and piazzas, including
and later the diversion of the Recent engineering work has the vast Piazza del Anfiteatro,
pilgrim route, led to its reduced the tower’s tilt to which traces the outline of the
economic decline and its approximately 4.12 m (13.5 ft). old Roman amphitheater. The
miraculous preservation. The graceful Baptistry was finest of the churches are all
Full of good restaurants and begun in 1152 and finished a Romanesque: San Martino,
shops, the town is also home century later by Nicola and the 11th-century cathedral,
to many fine works of art. The Giovanni Pisano. San Michele in Foro, built on
Museo Civico holds works by The Museo Nazionale di the sight of the old Roman
Pinturicchio, Benozzo Gozzoli, San Matteo holds Pisan and forum, and San Frediano.
and Filippino Lippi, while the
church of Sant’Agostino has a
Baroque interior by Vanvitelli
(c.1740) and a fresco cycle by
Benozzo Gozzoli (1465).

6 Florence
See pp394–407.

7 Pisa
* 90,000. k Galileo Galilei, 5 km
(3 miles) S. £ @ n Piazza Vittorio
Emanuele 16 (050-42 291). ( Wed &
Sat. ∑ pisaunicaterra.it
In the Middle Ages, Pisa’s navy
dominated the western
Mediterranean. Trade with Spain
and North Africa brought vast
wealth, reflected in the city’s
splendid buildings. The Duomo,
begun in 1064, is a magnificent
example of Pisan-Romanesque The Baptistry in front of Pisa’s Duomo, with the Leaning Tower behind




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394  IT AL Y AND GREECE


6 Florence

Florence is a monument to the Renaissance, the artistic
and cultural reawakening of the 15th century. The
buildings of Brunelleschi and the paintings and sculptures
of artists such as Botticelli and Michelangelo turned the
PIRA
city into one of the world’s greatest artistic capitals. VIA PIER ANTONIO MICHELI
During this time Florence was at the cultural and GIARDINO
DEI
intellectual heart of Europe, its cosmopolitan atmosphere V I A GIORGIO LA SEMPLICI
and wealthy patrons, such as the Medici, providing the Convento ARAZZIERI PIAZZA VIA C A P P O N I
VIA DEGLI
Santissima
impetus for a period of unparalleled artistic growth. The Stazione V I A G U E L F A Apollonia DI SAN Annunziata V I A
di Sant'
MARCO
legacy of the Renaissance draws many visitors to the city Santa Maria V I A Mercato VIA CESARE BATTISTI G I N O G I U S E P P E
Centrale di
Centrale
today, with its numerous museums, galleries, churches, Novella VA L F O N D A VIA NAZIONALE PIAZZA DEL C A V O U R PIAZZA DELLA V I A Museo
MERCATO
and monuments the major attractions. Florence’s best LARGO F A E N Z A CENTRALE Palazzo ANNUNZIATA V I A Archeologico G I U S T I
SANTISSIMA
Medici
sights are encompassed within such a compact area PIAZZA FRATELLI Riccardi V I A V I A D E L L A
ALINARI
DELLA
that the city seems to reveal its treasures at every step. STAZIONE Cappelle PIAZZA DI Spedale degli
Medicee
SAN
PIAZZA DELL’ PIAZZA DI LORENZO SER VI D E G L I Innocenti C O L O N N A
UNITA
V. DELL' ALBERO VIA ITALIANA ALDOBRANDINI Palazzo DEI PIAZZA FILIPPO
MADONNA
Pucci
DEGLI
BRUNELLESCHI
Sights at a Glance DELLA V. D. AVELLI VIA PA Z ANI V. DE MARTELLI VIA DE’ PUCCI VIA A L F A N I P I N T I
1 Duomo pp398–9 V. FINIGUERRA SANTA MARIA Biblioteca
PIAZZA DI
Mediceo-
2 San Lorenzo VIA PALAZZUOLO SCALA NOVELLA V. D. BANCHI Laurenziana VIA MAURIZIO BUFALINI B O R G O
3 Santa Maria Novella Ognissanti PIAZZA DI SAN Museo di
PAOLINO Firenze
4 Galleria dell’Accademia PIAZZA PIAZZA com'era
DEL
DEGLI
DUOMO
PIAZZA D’
5 San Marco OGNISSANTI OTTAVIANI VIADE'PESCIONI BRUNELLESCHI VIA ROMA VIADELL ’ OCHE VIA DEL PROCONSOL VIA DELL’ORIUOLO
Palazzo
6 Bargello Ponte A. VIA D. FOSSI Rucellai PIAZZA Palazzo
V.S.EGIDIO
Nonfinito
7 Santa Croce Vespucci Pescaia VIADE'TORNABUONI V. D. STROZZI DELLA VIA DEI CALZAIUOLI BORGO DEGLI ALBIZI PIAZZA
REPUBBLICA
GAETANO
PIAZZA
BORGO OGNISSANTI
8 Piazza della Signoria L UN GA RN O di S. Rosa GOLDONI V. D. VIGNA NUOVA Palazzo VIA DEL CORSO O SALVEMINI
LUNG. AMERIGO VESPUCCI
CARLO
Strozzi
Palazzo
VIA DEI
9 Palazzo Vecchio V .SANT’ONOFRIO Corsini PIAZZA DE' VIA DE' TAVOLINI V. DANTE
ALIGHIERI
DAVANZATI
0 Museo di Storia della Scienza PIAZZA DEL PIAZZA DI SOD ER IN I PIAZZA V. PORTA ROSSA CALIMALA V I A Buonarroti
Casa
TIRATOIO
CESTELLO
DI S.
q Uffizi pp404–6 PIAZZA Ponte alla LUNG. CORSINI TRÌNITA Palazzo PIAZZA DELLA DI SAN V. GIUSEPPE VERDI
Carraia
V. D. CONDOTTA PIAZZA
B O RG O S A N
G H I B E L L I N A
Spini-Ferroni
w Ponte Vecchio DE' NERLI F R E DI AN O NAZARIO LUNG. SIGNORIA FIRENZE
e Palazzo Pitti LEONE PIAZZA SAURO PIAZZA DI
DEL
V. DI CAMALDOLI DEL PIATTELLINA S E R R A G L I V. D. SANTO SPIRITO FRESCOBALDI PESCE VIA DE' REMIGIO VIA DE' BENCI V. D. S. GIUSEPPE
r Boboli Gardens PIAZZA CARMINE Ponte S. D. ACCIAIUOLI PIAZZA PIAZZA DE’ SANTA CROCE BARGELLINI
Trinìta
PIAZZA LUNG. GUICCIARDINI
CASTELLANI
PERUZZI
DI S.
PIAZZA DE'
L.GO PIERO
P. D.
Santo
PIAZZA VIA Spirito BORGO SAN JACOPO
TORQUATO Cappella Brancacci VIA MAGGIO PIAZZA
TASSO (Santa Maria del PIAZZA DI S. MENTANA
Carmine) D E ’ FELÌCITA VIA
PIAZZA PIAZZA DI DE' A r n o PIAZZA DEI
SANTA
SANTO
V I A V . SANT’AGOSTINO VIA MAZZETTA V. D. GUICCIARDINI SOPRARNO Ponte alle CAVALLEGGERI
MARIA
SPIRITO
LUNG. GEN. DIAZ LUNG. DELLE GRAZIE
VIA MAGGIO DE' PITTI C O S T A BAR D I Grazie
V I A
PIAZZA
D E L
LUNG. TORRIGIANI
GIARDINO PIAZZA LUNG. SERRISTORI
S E R R A G L I de' Mozzi MOZZI V. D. S. NICC O LÒ GIUSEPPE
PIAZZA
TORRIGIANI C A M P U C C I O DI SAN D I S A N GI O R G I O PIAZZA DE' DEMIDOFF PORTA SAN
FELICE
NICCOLO
Palazzo
PIAZZA
POGGI
Specola
D E ’ R O M A N A Museo la
V I A V I A GIARDINO DI BÓBOLI Belvedere
Forte di
PIAZZA
VIALE FRANCESCO PETRARCA
DELLA
CALZA
PIAZZALE DELLA
PORTA ROMANA
Michelangelo’s David in the
Galleria dell’Accademia
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FL ORENCE  395









PIRA
GIORGIO LA GIARDINO
DEI
VIA PIER ANTONIO MICHELI
V I A
SEMPLICI
VIA DEGLI
Convento ARAZZIERI PIAZZA VIA C A P P O N I
DI SAN
di Sant' MARCO Santissima V I A
V I A
Stazione Apollonia Annunziata
G U E L F A
Centrale di V I A Mercato G I N O
Santa Maria Centrale VIA CESARE BATTISTI G I U S E P P E
Novella VA L F O N D A VIA NAZIONALE PIAZZA DEL C A V O U R PIAZZA DELLA V I A Museo
SANTISSIMA
CENTRALE
Medici
LARGO F A E N Z A MERCATO Palazzo ANNUNZIATA V I A Archeologico G I U S T I
FRATELLI Riccardi V I A
PIAZZA ALINARI
DELLA V I A D E L L A
STAZIONE Cappelle
Medicee PIAZZA DI Spedale degli
SAN
PIAZZA DELL’ PIAZZA DI LORENZO SER VI D E G L I Innocenti C O L O N N A
UNITA
V. DELL' ALBERO VIA V. D. AVELLI ITALIANA ALDOBRANDINI VIA DE’ PUCCI Palazzo VIA DEI PIAZZA FILIPPO P I N T I
MADONNA
Pucci
DEGLI
BRUNELLESCHI
V. FINIGUERRA VIA PALAZZUOLO SCALA SANTA MARIA V. D. BANCHI Biblioteca V. DE MARTELLI A L F A N I The dome of the cathedral, or Duomo, Florence’s
DELLA
PIAZZA DI
Mediceo-
VIA PA Z ANI
NOVELLA
Laurenziana
Ognissanti PIAZZA DI SAN VIA MAURIZIO BUFALINI B O R G O greatest landmark
Museo di
PAOLINO Firenze
PIAZZA PIAZZA
DEGLI DEL com'era
PIAZZA D’ OTTAVIANI BRUNELLESCHI VIA ROMA DUOMO VIA DEL PROCONSOL
OGNISSANTI VIADE'PESCIONI VIADELL ’ OCHE VIA DELL’ORIUOLO
V.S.EGIDIO
Ponte A. VIA D. FOSSI Palazzo PIAZZA Palazzo
Rucellai
Nonfinito
Vespucci Pescaia PIAZZA V. D. VIGNA NUOVA VIADE'TORNABUONI V. D. STROZZI DELLA VIA DEI CALZAIUOLI BORGO DEGLI ALBIZI GAETANO
PIAZZA
REPUBBLICA
BORGO OGNISSANTI
V .SANT’ONOFRIO PIAZZA DEL di S. Rosa GOLDONI Palazzo Strozzi VIA DE' CALIMALA VIA DEI V. DANTE SALVEMINI Casa Key
Palazzo
CARLO
LUNG. AMERIGO VESPUCCI
V. GIUSEPPE VERDI
VIA DEL CORSO O
TAVOLINI
Corsini
ALIGHIERI
L UN GA RN O
PIAZZA DE'
DAVANZATI
TIRATOIO
CESTELLO
PIAZZA V. PORTA ROSSA
DI S.
Ponte alla LUNG. CORSINI TRÌNITA V. D. CONDOTTA PIAZZA V I A Buonarroti Sight / Place of interest
PIAZZA DI SOD ER IN I
PIAZZA Carraia Palazzo PIAZZA DELLA DI SAN G H I B E L L I N A
B O RG O S A N
DE' NERLI Spini-Ferroni SIGNORIA FIRENZE Pedestrian street
NAZARIO LUNG. City walls
LEONE PIAZZA PIAZZA LUNG. GUICCIARDINI Ponte S. D. ACCIAIUOLI PIAZZA DE’ SANTA CROCE
F R E DI AN O
SAURO
PIAZZA DI
DEL
V. DI CAMALDOLI DEL PIATTELLINA CARMINE S E R R A G L I V. D. SANTO SPIRITO FRESCOBALDI PESCE VIA DE' REMIGIO PERUZZI VIA DE' BENCI BARGELLINI V. D. S. GIUSEPPE
Trinìta
PIAZZA
CASTELLANI
PIAZZA
DI S.
L.GO PIERO
PIAZZA DE'
P. D.
Santo
PIAZZA VIA Spirito BORGO SAN JACOPO
TORQUATO Cappella Brancacci VIA MAGGIO PIAZZA
TASSO (Santa Maria del PIAZZA DI S. MENTANA
Carmine) D E ’ FELÌCITA VIA
PIAZZA PIAZZA DI DE' A r n o PIAZZA DEI
SANTA
SANTO
V I A V . SANT’AGOSTINO VIA MAZZETTA V. D. GUICCIARDINI SOPRARNO Ponte alle CAVALLEGGERI
MARIA
SPIRITO
LUNG. GEN. DIAZ LUNG. DELLE GRAZIE
VIA MAGGIO DE' PITTI C O S T A BAR D I Grazie
V I A
PIAZZA
D E L
LUNG. TORRIGIANI
GIARDINO PIAZZA LUNG. SERRISTORI
S E R R A G L I de' Mozzi MOZZI V. D. S. NICC O LÒ GIUSEPPE NICCOLO
PIAZZA
TORRIGIANI C A M P U C C I O DI SAN D I S A N GI O R G I O PIAZZA DE' DEMIDOFF PORTA SAN
FELICE
Palazzo
PIAZZA
POGGI
Specola
D E ’ R O M A N A Museo la
V I A V I A GIARDINO DI BÓBOLI Belvedere Getting Around
Forte di
Buses in Florence are bright orange; most can be picked
up at Santa Maria Novella station. Lines run until at least
PIAZZA
VIALE FRANCESCO PETRARCA
DELLA 9:30pm, the most popular until midnight or 1am.
CALZA
PIAZZALE DELLA Information about routes can be found on www.ataf.net.
PORTA ROMANA
Official taxis are white, and are generally costly. What
with one-way systems, erratic drivers, and limited traffic
0 meters 300
zones – where only authorized vehicles are permitted to
0 yards 300 go – driving is not recommended. Walking is easily the
most enjoyable way to get around and explore the city.
For key to symbols see back flap
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396  IT AL Y AND GREECE


1 Duomo
See pp398–9.
2 San Lorenzo
Piazza di San Lorenzo. @ many routes.
Basilica: Tel 055-21 40 42. Open daily.
Closed Sun (Nov–Feb), religious hols.
& Biblioteca: Tel 055-293 79 11.
Open daily during special exhibitions.
Closed Sun (Nov–Feb), public hols.
Cappelle Medicee: Piazza di Madonna
degli Aldobrandini 6. Tel 055-29 48 83.
Open daily (to 4:50pm). Closed 2nd
& 4th Sun of month, 1st, 3rd, & 5th
Mon of month, Jan 1, May 1 & Dec 25.
& 7
San Lorenzo was the parish Facade of Santa Maria Novella, redesigned by Alberti in 1456–70
church of the Medici family, who
lavished their wealth on its with the design of the New Chapel, Lippi’s dramatic frescoes
adornment. Rebuilt in Renais- Sacristy by Michelangelo. The show St. John raising Drusiana
sance Classical style in 1419, the latter’s funerary figures (1520– from the dead and St. Philip
outer facade was never finished. 34) around its walls are among slaying a dragon. Boccaccio set
The inner facade of the his greatest works. The Chapel of the start of The Decameron in
Basilica was designed by the Princes (1604) is opulently this chapel. The Strozzi Tomb
Michelangelo. Cosimo il Vecchio, decorated with inlaid semi- (1493) is by Florentine sculptor
founder of the Medici dynasty, is precious stones and bright Benedetto da Maiano.
buried under a stone slab before frescoes. Six Grand Dukes of the The 14th-century frescoes
the High Altar. The bronze pulpits Medici family are buried here. in the Strozzi Chapel are by
in the nave are Donatello’s last two brothers (Nardo di Cione
works. Opposite is Bronzino’s 3 Santa Maria and Andrea Orcagna) and
vast fresco of the human form were inspired by Dante’s
in various poses (1659). Novella Divine Comedy.
The Biblioteca Mediceo- Piazza di Santa Maria Novella. @ many Beside the church is a walled
Laurenzia, which housed the routes. 7 Church: Tel 055-21 92 57. cemetery with grave niches. The
family’s manuscripts, has an Open daily (pm only Fri–Sun & religious cloisters on the other side of the
elaborate sandstone staircase, hols). & Museum: Tel 055-28 21 87. church form a museum. The
desks, and ceilings designed Open 9am–5:30pm Mon–Thu, Green Cloister’s name derives
by Michelangelo in 1524. 11am–5:30pm Fri, 9am–5pm Sat, from the green tinge to Uccello’s
The Cappelle Medicee noon–5pm Sun. Closed Jan 1, Easter Noah and the Flood frescoes,
incorporate three sacristies which Sun, May 1. & 7 damaged by the 1966 floods.
epitomize different periods The adjoining Spanish Chapel
of art. Donatello’s The Gothic church of Santa contains frescoes on the theme
decoration of the Maria Novella, built by the of salvation and damnation.
Old Sacristy Dominicans between 1279 and
contrasts 1357, contains some of the 4 Galleria
most important works of
art in Florence. The dell’Accademia
interior displays a number Via Ricasoli 60. @ many routes.
of superb frescoes, Tel 055-29 48 83 (bookings). Open
including Masaccio’s Tue–Sun. Closed Mon & public hols.
Trinity (c.1428), which is & 7 ∑ polomuseale.firenze.it
renowned as a master-
piece of perspective and The Academy of Fine Arts in
portraiture. The close Florence, founded in 1563,
spacing of the nave was the first school in Europe
piers at the east end set up to teach drawing,
accentuates the illusion painting, and sculpture.
of length. The Tornabuoni Since 1873, many of Michel-
Chapel contains Ghirlan- angelo’s most important works
daio’s fresco cycle, The Life have been in the Accademia.
of John the Baptist (1485). Perhaps the most famous of
Detail from Donatello pulpit, San Lorenzo In the Filippo Strozzi all dominates the collection:
For hotels and restaurants see pp438–40 and pp441–3


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FL ORENCE  397


Michelangelo’s David (1504).
This colossal nude depicts the
biblical hero who killed the
giant Goliath; it established
Michelangelo, then aged 29,
as the foremost sculptor of
his time. The statue was
moved here from the Palazzo
Vecchio in 1873 to protect it
from the elements.
Michelangelo’s other
masterpieces include a statue
of St. Matthew finished in 1508,
and the Quattro Prigioni (four
prisons), sculpted between 1521
and 1523. The muscular figures
struggling to free themselves Fra Angelico’s Annunciation, in the monastery of San Marco
from the stone are among the
most dramatic of his works. 5 San Marco the monastery is now a museum.
The gallery contains an It contains a remarkable series
important collection of paintings Piazza di San Marco. @ many routes. of devotional frescoes by Fra
by 15th- and 16th-century 7 partial. Church: Open daily. Angelico. The former Pilgrims’
Museum: Tel 055-29 48 83 (bookings).
Florentine artists, and many Open Mon–Fri: am only, Sat: am & pm. Hospice houses The Deposition
major works including the Closed Jan 1, May 1, Dec 25, 2nd & (1435–40), a poignant scene of
Madonna del Mare attributed 4th Mon and 1st, 3rd, & 5th Sun each the dead Christ; his Crucifixion
to Botticelli (1445–1510), month. & 7 (1441–2) can be seen in the
Pacino di Bonaguida’s Tree of Chapter House.
Life (1310), and Venus and Cupid The church of San Marco, and the There are over 40 cells
by Jacopo Pontormo (1494– monastery built around it, date adorned with frescoes by Fra
1556). Also on display is an from the 13th century. Following Angelico. The Annunciation
elaborately painted wooden the transfer of the site to the (c.1445) demonstrates his
chest, the Cassone Adimari Dominicans of Fiesole by Pope mastery of perspective. Relics
(c.1440) by Lo Scheggia. It was Eugene IV in 1436, Cosimo il of the fiery orator Savonarola
originally used as part of a bride’s Vecchio paid a considerable sum (1452–98), dragged from here
trousseau, and is covered with for its reconstruction, overseen by and executed in Piazza della
details of Florentine daily life, his favorite architect, Michelozzo. Signoria, are also on display.
clothing, and architecture. The single-naved church holds The monastery houses
The Salone della Toscana valuable works of art, and the Europe’s first public library,
(Tuscany Room) exhibits more funerary chapel of St. Anthony is designed by Michelozzo in
modest 19th-century sculpture considered Giambologna’s main a light and airy colonnaded
and paintings by members of work of architecture. To the right hall. Valuable manuscripts
the Accademia. of the church, the oldest part of and bibles are held here.






















A scene from Lo Scheggia’s Cassone Adimari in the Galleria dell’Accademia




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398  IT AL Y AND GREECE


1 Duomo

Set in the heart of Florence, Santa Maria del . Campanile
At 85 m (276 ft), the
Fiore – the Duomo, or cathedral, of Florence Campanile is 6 m (20 ft)
– dominates the city with its enormous shorter than the dome.
dome. Its sheer size was typical of Florentine It is clad in white, green
determination to lead in all things, and to and pink Tuscan marble.
The first-floor reliefs are
this day, no other building stands taller in by Andrea Pisano.
the city. The Baptistry, with its celebrated
doors, is one of Florence’s oldest buildings,
dating perhaps from the 4th century. In his
capacity as city architect, Giotto designed
the Campanile in 1334; it was completed in
1359, 22 years after his death.












. Baptistry
Colorful 13th-century mosaics illustrating The
Last Judgment decorate the ceiling above the
large octagonal font where many famous
Florentines, including Dante, were baptized.


Main
entrance



















South Door Panels
This scene from the
south doors of the Steps to Santa Reparata
Baptistry, completed The crypt contains the remains of the church
by the sculptor Andrea of Santa Reparata, built in the 4th century,
Pisano in 1336, depicts and demolished in 1296 to make way for a
The Baptism of St. John cathedral which would more fittingly represent
the Baptist. Florence and rival those of Siena and Pisa.
For hotels and restaurants see pp438–40 and pp441–3


398-399_EW_Europe.indd 398 14/07/16 10:16 am