(DK Eyewitness) Travel Guide - Europe

TR A VELERS ’ NEEDS  549

Where to Eat and Drink

WEST OF CENTER: Price Guide
Berlin Café am Neuen See € Prices are based on a three-course
German/Mediterranean Map C4 meal for one, with half a bottle of
EAST OF CENTER: Nante-Eck € Lichtensteinallee 2, 10787 house wine, and all extra charges.
Traditional German Map E3 Tel 030-254 493 00 € under €40
Unter den Linden 35, 10117 This café has a lakeside terrace €€ €40 to €80
Tel 030-224 872 57 and a menu offering Bavarian €€€ over €80
Berlin-style cheap eats are on snacks and draught beers, as well
offer at this casual pub. Fill up as Italian mains such as pizzas. (starters), but do not overlook the
on calf’s liver with port sauce Cozy seating in winter, plus boat blini (buckwheat pancakes filled
or meatballs with mustard, and rentals and a sandpit for kids. with spinach and cheese, salmon
wash them down with local beer. and horseradish, or caviar).
EAST OF CENTER: Zur DK Choice
Letzten Instanz €€ WEST OF CENTER:
Traditional German Map F3 Esswein am Fasanenplatz €€ Eastern Germany
Waisenstraße 14–16, 10179 Modern German Map B4
Tel 030-242 55 28 Closed Sun Fasanenstraße 40, 10719
Berlin’s oldest pub, dating from Tel 030-889 292 88 Closed Mon DK Choice
1621. Classic fare including Esswein is making waves on
eisbein (pork knuckle) and Berlin’s culinary scene thanks DRESDEN: Schillergarten €
rinderroulade (beef olive) is to its contemporary German German
served in a wood-paneled room. cooking. The seasonal menu Schillerplatz 9, 01309
may feature Pfälzer Wurstsalat Tel 0351-811 990
EAST OF CENTER: Facil €€€ (Rhineland sausage with cheese Located in a historic building
Modern Fusion Map D4 and bread), or Ochsen Fetzen next to the Blaues Wunder
Potsdamerstraße 3, 10785 (ox slices baked in a râgout bridge, this fine pub and
Tel 030-590 051 234 of grapes, mushrooms, and restaurant is the perfect
A glass-roofed pavilion is the chestnuts). Choose from a place to eat well and at a
backdrop for famed chef Michael selection of more than 40 Mosel reasonable price in the city
Kempf’s inspired cuisine, which wines to accompany the meal. center. Sample great local
uses the freshest market produce food, including first-class
and subtly exotic spices. bratwurst, as well as an
FARTHER AFIELD: extensive range of beers.
DK Choice Blockhaus Nikolskoe €€ There is also a wonderful
summer terrace on the
German
EAST OF CENTER: Nikolskoer Weg 15, 14109 embankment of the Elbe
Fischers Fritz €€€ Tel 030-805 29 14 River. Reserve ahead.
Modern French Map E3 This restaurant occupies a dacha
Charlottenstraße 49, 10117 (country house) built for the heir
Tel 030-203 363 63 to the Russian throne in 1819. DRESDEN: Sternerestaurant
The creative flair of chef Christian The food, especially the fresh fish Caroussel €€€
Lohse has won Fischers Fritz and local game, suits the lovely Fine Dining
two Michelin stars. The meat views and waterside setting. Königstraße 14, 01097
dishes are tempting, but it is Tel 0351-800 30 Closed Sun & Mon
the seafood dishes that get the FARTHER AFIELD: Pasternak €€ Expect only the finest
most accolades. Try the Breton Russian/Jewish contemporary fare from this
lobster roasted with salt, chili Knaackstraße 22/24, 10405 Michelin-starred restaurant in the
and coriander, or the roast Tel 030-441 33 99 magnificent Bulow Palace Hotel.
scallops with caramelized A long-time favorite with Berlin’s
Hokkaido pumpkin and Jaipur sizeable Russian community, LEIPZIG: Auerbachs Keller €€
curry. The fixed-price lunches Pasternak prides itself on its German
are good value. authentic fare. The focus is on Grimmaischestraße 2–4, 04109
a rich assortment of zakuski Tel 0341-216 100
One of Leipzig’s oldest eateries,
with a great selection of beers to
wash down the superior German
cuisine that features lots of game.
Reservations are recommended.
LEIPZIG: Zest €€
Modern Fusion
Bornaische Strasse 54, 04277
Tel 0341-231 91 26
A fresh and creative take on
modern European food. There
are plenty of vegetarian dishes
on the menu, and the great
prices make it worth the short
Chandeliers and candlelight at the Michelin-starred Fischers Fritz, Berlin trip out of the city center.

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550  GERM AN Y

WEIMAR: Café Glockenspiel €€ FREIBURG IM BREISGAU:
Zum Schwarzen Bären € International Map C4 Hausbrauerei Feierling €
German Marienplatz 28, 80331 German
Markt 20, 99423 Tel 089-26 42 56 Closed Sun dinner Gerberau 46, 79098
Tel 03643-853 847 Café-restaurant with magnificent Tel 0761-24 34 80
One of Weimar’s oldest rooftop views from its terrace. Cheerful microbrewery with
restaurants, Zum Schwarzen Menu highlights include sea a wood-and-copper interior
Bären offers a Thuringian bass with lemon hollandaise, and Freiburg’s best beer garden.
gastropub experience right in and lamb saddle served on First-class pub food, including
the center of town. Simple, tasty Parmesan polenta. giant schnitzels.
food, including great bratwurst.
Tavernetta €€ FREIBURG IM BREISGAU:
DK Choice Italian Map D4 Englers Weinkrügle €€
Regional German
Hildegardstraße 9, 80539
WEIMAR: Tel 089-21 26 94 24 Closed Sun Konviktstraße 12, 79098
Anna Amalia €€€ Sample fine Italian fare, including Tel 0761-383 115
Fine Dining seafood pastas and satisfying A wood-paneled weinstube
Geleitstraße 8, 99423 antipasti such as courgette and (wine bar) with great regional
Tel 03643-495 60 wild mushroom carpaccio. Save food and an amazing Black
Located in the Hotel Elephant, room for the tiramisu. Forest dessert: cherries in hot
this Michelin-starred gourmet liqueur with vanilla ice cream.
restaurant offers contemporary Weinhaus Neuner €€
dining in a historic 17th-century International/Regional Map B4 HEIDELBERG:
building. The tasting menu is Herzogspitalstraße 8, 80331 Zum Roten Ochsen €€
an eight-course extravaganza Tel 089-260 39 54 Closed Sun German
featuring outstanding food, as Smart wine bar featuring a Hauptstraße 217, 69117
well as a range of fine wines. menu with strong Mediterranean Tel 06221-209 77
Visit the Anna bistro on the influences. Diners can also enjoy The collectables and sepia
charming garden terrace for a range of piquant Bavarian photos on the walls of this
a simpler, cheaper option. mustard sauces. atmospheric student haunt
bear witness to its popularity
Restaurant Pfistermühle €€€ since the early 19th century.
International Map C4
Pfisterstraße 4, 80331 HEIDELBERG: Simplicissimus €€€
Munich Tel 089-237 038 65 Closed Sun French
A small, seasonal and regionally Ingrimstraße 16, 69117
inspired menu is served under Tel 06221-673 25 88 Closed Sun
DK Choice elegant 16th-century arches. Superb French cuisine, including
Reserve in advance.
imaginative beef, veal, and
Wirtshaus in der Au € seafood concoctions. Sit in the
Regional German intimate dining room or in the
Lilienstraße 51, 81669 pretty, flower-filled courtyard.
Tel 089-448 14 00 Southern Germany
Waitresses dart around in NUREMBURG:
traditional dirndl dresses at BAMBERG: Hoffmanns Bratwurstglöcklein €
this lovely Bavarian inn. The Steak & Fish €€ Regional German
dumplings on offer include International Waffenhof 5, 90402
spinach and beetroot versions. Schillerplatz 7, 96047 Tel 0911-227 625 Closed Sun
They have also published a Tel 0951-700 08 85 Closed Sun Located in a historic inn dating
cookbook and run a dumpling Renowned for its perfect steaks, back to 1313, Bratwurstglöcklein
restaurant – the Münchner Hoffmanns is also credited with serves Franconian set meals
Knödelei – on the Oktoberfest introducing nouvelle cuisine to consisting of dumpling soup,
grounds during the festival. the city. The menu has a range pork knuckle, and sausages
of innovative dishes. simmered in onions and vinegar.
NUREMBURG: Essigbrätlein €€€
International
Weinmarkt 3, 90403
Tel 0911-225 131 Closed Sun & Mon
An intimate little restaurant with
remarkable food, wine, and
service. The daily menu often
features fish and exquisite
desserts. Reserve in advance.
PASSAU: Heilig Geist €€
Regional German
Heilig-Geist-Gaße 4, 94032
Tel 0851-26 07 Closed Wed
Rustic wine bar with tiled stoves.
On the menu is Bavarian food –
mostly local fish, pork, and beef.
The popular outdoor dining area at Wirtshaus in der Au, Munich Ask for a table in the courtyard.
Key to Price Guide see page 549
546-551_EW_Europe.indd 550 14/07/16 3:17 pm
Eyewitness Travel LAYERS PRINTED:
Listings template “UK” LAYER
(Source v1.3)
Date 19th February 2013
Size 125mm x 217mm

TR A VELERS ’ NEEDS  551


Northern Germany
BREMEN: Ratskeller €€
German
Am Markt, 28195
Tel 0421-32 16 76
Housed in Germany’s oldest wine
cellar, Ratskeller has an extensive
wine selection and serves tasty
food in a magnificent setting.
HAMBURG: Café Paris €€
French
Rathausstraße 4, 20095
Tel 040-325 277 77
Enjoy delicious French food,
Elegant Art Nouveau decor at Hamburg’s Café Paris coffee, and cakes in this
gorgeous former butchery with
ROTHENBURG: Hotel- COLOGNE: Alcazar € Art Nouveau-tiled walls and
Restaurant Kloster-Stüble €€ French/German ceiling. The bistro menu also
Regional German Bismarckstraße 39a, 50672 has oysters and steak tartare.
Herrngaße 21, 91541 Tel 0221-515 733
Tel 09861-93 88 90 An institution in Cologne’s DK Choice
Popular inn in a 1534 farmhouse. nightlife quarter, this appealing
Relish delicacies such as pork little bar-restaurant fuses French HAMBURG: Die Bank €€€
roast with crackling, mushrooms, and German cuisines. Lunch is International
and bread dumplings. Fine town the best bet for a table, since Hohe Bleichen 17, 20354
views from the terrace. evenings are often packed. Tel 040-238 00 30 Closed Sun
Inside a magnificent historic
STUTTGART: Calwer-Eck-Bräu €€ COLOGNE: Il Carpaccio €€ bank building, this elegant
Regional German Italian dining hall is always buzzing.
Calwerstraße 31, 70173 Lindenstraße 5, 50674 Chef Thomas Fischer creates
Tel 0711-22 24 94 40 Tel 0221-236 487 Closed Sun unexpected variations of well-
Stuttgart’s oldest microbrewery Relish fantastic pasta and other known local dishes, with an
features organically produced, classic Italian dishes prepared emphasis on fresh fish and
seasonal beers. It also serves with fresh, top-quality vegetables. The wine list is
typical local food, including ingredients in a stylish setting. equally impressive. Expect a
maultaschen (a type of ravioli). Remarkable wine selection. business clientele for lunch
Live music at weekends. and an arty crowd for dinner.
STUTTGART: Délice €€€
International COLOGNE: Maitre €€€
Hauptstätterstraße 61, 70178 French HANNOVER: Pier 51 €€
Tel 0711-640 32 22 Olympiaweg 2, 50933 International
This intimate, seven-table Tel 0221-485 360 Closed Mon & Tue Rudolf-von-Bennigsen-Ufer 51, 30173
restaurant offers inventive The gourmet restaurant of the Tel 0511-807 18 00
high-quality gourmet food and Landhaus Kuckuck Hotel has a Built on a pier jutting over Lake
an award-winning wine list. reputation for its fine cuisine, Masch, this is a stylish, award-
as well as its well-stocked wine winning restaurant offering
WÜRZBURG: Ratskeller €€ cellar. The frequently changing delicious light fish, meat, and
Regional German menu features plenty of pasta dishes. Enjoy a cocktail on
Langgasse 1, 97070 seasonal produce. the elegant terrace afterward.
Tel 0931-130 21
Reliable regional food in the DK Choice HANNOVER: Clichy €€€
cellars of the city’s former town French
hall. The cinnamon and Silvaner FRANKFURT AM MAIN: Weissekreuzstraße 31, 30161
white-wine soup is a must-try. Restaurant Villa Tel 0511-312 447 Closed Sun
Rothschild €€€ A beautiful restaurant serving
Gourmet French modern interpretations of classic
Im Rothschildpark 1, 61462 French cuisine with some
Western Germany Tel 06174-290 80 Closed Sun German and Italian influences.
& Mon Try one of their fish specialties.
BONN: Zur Lindenwirtin Situated in a castle-like mansion,
Aennchen €€ this Michelin-starred restaurant MÜNSTER: Villa Medici €€
International is one of the best in Germany Italian
Aennchenplatz 2, 53173 and a must-visit for gourmands. Prozessionsweg 402, 48155
Tel 0228-312 051 Closed Sun Chef Christian Eckhardt’s team Tel 0251-342 18 Closed Sun & Mon
A romantic restaurant with specializes in imaginative Dine on well-balanced,
impeccable service. The kitchen versions of French haute imaginative, and wonderfully
produces international dishes cuisine, complemented by the presented food in one of
with a strong bias toward French extensive selection of wines Germany’s best Italian
fare. There is a carefully chosen and champagnes. Book ahead. restaurants. The multi-course
wine list as well. set menu changes monthly.
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GERM AN Y , A USTRIA , AND SWITZERLAND  553

AUSTRIA


Austria has existed as a country for less than 100 years but, despite inauspicious
beginnings, has thrived thanks to its position at the heart of Europe. Visitors are
attracted by the glories of its Imperial Habsburg past, especially in the capital,
Vienna. Austria also has a strong musical tradition and great natural beauty,
especially in the Alps and the valley of the Danube.


Present-day Austria emerged in 1919, History
when the lands of its former empire were In the 1st millennium BC, settlements in
granted independence, as a curiously the region of present-day Austria prospered
shaped, landlocked country. It is bordered from mining iron and salt. One settlement,
by Switzerland and Germany to the west Hallstatt, has given its name to an important
and north. Along the rest of its border lie Iron Age culture that spread across Europe.
the former lands of the old Habsburg It was iron that first drew the Romans to
Empire, the Czech Republic, Slovakia, occupy the region, where they established
Hungary, Slovenia, and the South Tyrol. the provinces of Rhaetia, Noricum, and
The regions of the west, the Vorarlberg Pannonia, making the Danube the frontier
and the Tyrol, are mountainous, dominated of their empire. When the Romans
by the eastern Alps. This is where you will withdrew, the region was settled by
find the most familiar images of Austria: Germanic tribes, such as the Alemanni
well-appointed skiing resorts, snow-capped and the Bavarians, and Slavs, but it was the
peaks, and beautiful valleys cloaked in forest. German-speaking peoples who prevailed.
The Alps are not the traditional heart of The geographical kernel of Austria
Austria – this lies in the regions of Upper (Österreich) was the Ostmark (eastern
and Lower Austria in the northeast, where march or border county) established
the Danube (Donau) flows eastwards across by Charlemagne in the 9th century to
the country for 360 km (225 miles). Vienna protect the frontier of his empire. In the
stands at a point just beyond where the 10th century, the Babenbergs acquired
great river emerges from the mountains the county, which was elevated to a
to flow into the Hungarian plain. The east dukedom in 1156. Their dynasty died out
of the country is more populous, with in the 13th century and their lands were
more agriculture and industry. fought over until they came under the




















Ruined castle of Aggstein overlooking the Danube in the Wachau region
The magnificent interior of the Vienna State Opera House



552-555_EW_Europe.indd 553 14/07/16 10:10 am

554  GERM AN Y , A USTRIA , AND SWITZERLAND

control of Rudolf of Habsburg, who was
elected Holy Roman Emperor in 1273.
Over the next three centuries, the
Habsburg domains grew, occasionally
by conquest, but usually by means of
marriages and inheritances. In time, it
became a matter of course that they
were elected as Holy Roman Emperors.
From the 15th century, Turkish invasions
threatened the Habsburg lands. In 1683, The Central, one of the grandest of Vienna’s coffee houses
the Turks laid siege to Vienna, but they
were dispersed by a relieving army. followed bitter struggles between Right
This marked the start of many successful and Left for control of the new Austrian
campaigns in the Balkans. In the 18th republic. The country was annexed by
century, Austria was a major power, Germany in 1938 and then, following
although the rise of Prussia and Napoleon’s Hitler’s defeat in 1945, came under Allied
occupation of Vienna in 1809 dented control until 1955, when it became a
Habsburg pride. The Austrian empire sovereign state once more. As a keen
was considerably weakened in the 19th member of the EU, Austria has flourished
century by the growth of nationalist economically, but the old political
movements, but Vienna enjoyed its heyday divisions have arisen. The far-right FPÖ
as a great cosmopolitan European capital. (then led by Jörg Haider) were part of
After World War I, the defeated Austrian government coalitions from 2000 –
Empire was dismembered and countries resulting in international outrage – until
such as Czechoslovakia and Hungary the Social Democratic party (SPÖ) took
gained their independence. There over in 2006. Elections in 2013 saw a

Exploring Austria Sights at a Glance CZECH REPUBLIC Prague Brno
Austria’s main attractions are the alpine resorts in the west of 1 Vienna pp556–65 Ceské
the country around Innsbruck and the capital, Vienna, in the 2 Eisenstadt Regensburg Budĕjovice 303 7
east. In between, there are many other sights worth seeking 3 Graz
4 Melk and the Wachau
out: ancient monasteries and castles, well-preserved medieval 5 Linz Freistadt Krems Stockerau A5 SL OV AKIA
cities, such as Salzburg and Graz, the picturesque lakes of the 6 Hallstatt Donau 125 Melk and Donau
Salzkammergut region, and the scenic stretch of the Danube 7 Salzburg Munich Linz the Wachau S33 VIENNA BRATISLAVA
(Wien)
known as the Wachau. Road and rail communications along 8 Innsbruck A8 St Pölten A1 A4
A1
the main axis of the country between 147 Steyr Waidhofen A3
Eisenstadt
Vienna, Linz, Salzburg, and Innsbruck Munich A1 20 Wiener Neusiedler
are very good. Ulm Salzburg A9 25 Mariazell Neustadt See
Ulm Munich GERMANY Bad Ischl Budapest
AUSTR I A
Kufstein Hallstatt S6
Bregenz Liezen Kapfenberg
A12 Kitzbühel Bischofshofen Radstadt A2 HUNGARY
St Gallen Dornbirn Jenbach Zell am See Leoben
198
Feldkirch Inn Innsbruck 165 Piesendorf Knittelfeld
Zürich A12 167 A10 S36
A14 97
LIECHTENSTEIN St Anton Landeck A13 Mayrhofen Badgastein Obdach Graz
Milan 315 Gmund A9
Lienz Spittal St Veit
SWITZERLAND A2
Bolzano Villach Klagenfurt
I T A L Y Wörthersee
An advanced skiier on the snowy slopes of Tyrol Ljubljana Zagreb
in Austria Udine SL OVENIA
Ljubljana
For hotels and restaurants see p574 and p575
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A USTRIA  555

sharp rise in votes for the FPÖ, now led KEY DATES IN AUSTRIAN HISTORY
by H.C. Strache. In 2013, after lengthy
negotiations, a coalition was formed c.800 BC Rise of Hallstatt culture
between the SPÖ and the conservative 15 BC Noricum occupied by Romans
People’s Party (ÖVP). AD 976–1246 Babenberg dynasty rules Eastern
March of the Holy Roman Empire
Language and Culture 1276 Rudolf of Habsburg ruler of Austria
1519 Charles V is elected Holy Roman Emperor
Austria is linguistically homogenous, 1618–48 Thirty Years’ War
with 98 percent of the population 1683 Siege of Vienna
speaking German. There are, however, 1740–80 Reign of Maria Theresa
considerable differences in dialect 1805 Napoleon defeats Austrians at Austerlitz
between the various regions. 1815 Congress of Vienna
Culturally, Austria is synonymous with 1848 Revolutions throughout Habsburg Empire
music, the long list of great Austrian 1918 Defeat in World War I brings Habsburg rule to
composers including Mozart, Haydn, an end – Austria declared republic
Schubert, and Mahler, not forgetting 1938 Anschluss – Austria absorbed by Germany
the Strausses, father and son, and their 1945–55 Vienna occupied by Allies
famous waltzes. Vienna’s intellectual 1994 Austria joins EU
and artistic life enjoyed an extra ordinary 2004 Elfriede Jelinek receives Nobel Prize for Literature
flowering in the late 19th and early 2006 After FPÖ party splits in 2005, Social Democrats
20th century with the Secession defeat conservatives in elections
movement in painting, architecture, 2008 Jörg Haider dies
and design. It was also the period 2009 200th anniversary of the death of composer
Joseph Haydn
of Sigmund Freud’s investigations, 2010 Heinz Fischer of the SPÖ wins the presidential
which laid the foundations of election with just under 80 percent of the vote
modern psychology.

CZECH REPUBLIC Brno
Prague
Ceské
Budĕjovice 303
Regensburg 7
A5
Krems SL OV AKIA
Freistadt Stockerau
Melk and
125
Donau
Munich Linz the Wachau S33 Donau VIENNA BRATISLAVA
(Wien)
St Pölten A1
A8 A1 A4
Steyr A3
147
A1 Waidhofen 20 Eisenstadt
Munich Wiener Neusiedler
Salzburg A9 Neustadt See
Ulm Munich 25 Mariazell
Ulm GERMANY Bad Ischl Budapest
AUSTR I A
Kufstein Hallstatt S6
Bregenz Liezen Kapfenberg
A12 Kitzbühel Bischofshofen Radstadt A2 HUNGARY
St Gallen Dornbirn Jenbach Zell am See Leoben
198
Feldkirch Inn Innsbruck 165 Piesendorf Knittelfeld Key
Zürich A12 167 A10 S36
A14 97
LIECHTENSTEIN St Anton Landeck A13 Mayrhofen Badgastein Obdach Graz Highway
Milan 315 Gmund Major road
Railroad
A9
Lienz Spittal St Veit
SWITZERLAND A2 International border
Bolzano Villach Klagenfurt
I T A L Y Wörthersee 0 kilometers 50
Ljubljana Zagreb 0 miles 50
Udine SL OVENIA
Ljubljana
For keys to symbols see back flap
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556  GERM AN Y , A USTRIA , AND SWITZERLAND


1 Vienna 14 Stockerau Brno 8
A22
Greater Vienna has a population of 1.6 million, but the A L S E R B A C H S T R A S S E 3
Austrian capital is a compact city with many of the Museum GLASERG. R Ö G E R G AS S E Währing A22 8 3 Donaustadt
Alte Donau
important sights, especially those that date from the Moderner R O S S A U Herrnals
Kunst
LIECHTENSTEIN-
Habsburg era, clustered around the Hofburg, the BOL T ZMA LIECHTENSTE IN- PARK Franz-Josefs- 227 3b
former imperial court. In the mid-19th century, the WIDERHOFER- NN- P O R Z E L L A N G A S S E S E E G A S S E E R Bahnhof 8 Praterstern-
PLATZ
city’s old defenses were pulled down and a wide ALSERGRUND Josefstadt Wien Nord
circular boulevard, the Ringstrasse, was built linking STRUDLHOFGASSE STRASSE PRAMERGASSE Penzing 223 221 227 A23 Donau

new political and cultural institutions, such as Vienna’s BAUERNFELD- MÜLLNERGASSE Rossauer 1 Landstrasse
Lände
PLATZ Westbahnhof Vienna International
great art gallery, the Kunsthistorisches Museum. HANGASSE L Ä N D E 1 A20 Bus Terminal
G ASSE
Completed in the 1880s, the Ringstrasse still defines L G A S S E SENSENGASSE PORZELLA NG. SERVITENGASSE Linz 221 Haupt- Simmering Schwechat
A4
Airport
the Innere Stadt, or heart of the city. The Danube THURNGASSE B E R G G A S S E Melk Meidling Favoriten 225
bahnhof
(Donau) river flows through the east of the city, W Ä H R I N G E R S T R A S S E Hietzing 225 A2H Bratislava
HÖRLGASSE
S P I T A GARNISON- WASAGASSE SCHLICK- FRANZ- JOSEFS- KAI A23 17 A23 16
where it has been canalized to prevent flooding. LIECHTENSTEINSTR. TÜRKENSTRASSE 224
SCHWARZS PANIERSTR. KOLINGASSE PLATZ Wiener Neustadt Eisenstadt
Graz
SCHOTTENRING
OTTO- WAGNER- GASSE MARIA - THERESIENSTRASSE Schottenring Donaukanal
GONZAGAG.
PLATZ ROOSEVELT- NEUTORG.
Sights at a Glance SKODAG. ALSER STRASSE Schottentor BÖRSEGASSE WERDERTORG.
PLATZ
1 Hofburg pp558–60 UNIVERSITÄTSSTR. HEINRICHSG.
RUDOLFS-
2 Burgtheater KO CHG A SSE LAUDONGASSE SCHLÖSSELG. WICKENBURGG. LIEBIGG. Universität HOHENSTAUFENG. CONCORDIA- PLATZ
PLATZ
3 Stephansdom Museum INNERE Rathaus MORZIN-
Altes
PLATZ
4 Staatsoper Volkskunde LAMMG. STRASSE RATHAUS- N G SCHOTTENG. STADT SALZG F RANZ - JO SEFS - KAI
für
GRABEN
5 Naturhistorisches Museum L E D E R E R G A S S E FL ORIANIGASSE LANDESGERICHTSSTRASSE R AT H A U S S T R A S S E PARK RENNG. TIEFER WIPPLINGER STRASSE
SALVATORG.
6 Kunsthistorisches Museum JOSEFSTADT Rathaus RATHAUS- FREYUNG AM JUDEN- Schweden JULIUS-RAAB-
Neues
BAUERNMARKT
platz
Rathaus
PLATZ
PLATZ
7 MuseumsQuartier Wien PLATZ GASSE HOF TUCHLAUBEN MARC-AUREL-STR. RIE S
STRASSE
8 Freud Museum BUCHFELDG. LE NAUGASSE REICHSRAT- U N I V E R S I TÄT S R I HERRENGASSE NAGLERGASSE ROTENTUR M FLEISCHMARKT DOMINIKANERBASTEI
9 Museum of Applied Arts JOSEFSTÄDTER- STRASSE FRIEDRICH- BANK- Herrengasse WALLNERSTR. Stephans- POST GAS SE
SCHMIDT-
0 Secession Building L A N G E G A S S E PLATZ KOHLMARKT GRABEN platz B I B E R S T R A S S E STU B ENRING
BRANDSTÂTTE
q Karlskirche JOSEFSG. VOLKS- MICHAELER- W O L L Z E I L E
PLATZ
PIARISTEN- GASSE
w Albertina S T R O Z Z I G A S S E ZELTGASSE AUERSPERGSTR. Parlament GARTEN REITSCHULG. STEPHANS- S C H U L E R S T R A S S E
PLATZ
SPIEGELGAS SE
Greater Vienna (see inset map) NEUDEGGERG. SCHMERLING- DOROTHEERG. SINGERSTR . Stubentor
e Prater LERCHENFELDER STR. PLATZ HELDEN- JOSEFS- W E I H B U R G - STUBENBASTEI
PLATZ
PLATZ
r Belvedere MUSEUMSSTR. BURGRING Lobkowitz KÄRNTNERSTRASSE HIMMELPFORT- PARKRING
Palais
t Schönbrunn Palace and Gardens NEUSTIFTGASSE AUGUSTINERSTR. G A S S E
Volkstheater
MARIA- Winter Palace S E I L E R STÄT T E STADT-
of Prince
B U R G G A S S E THERESIEN- GARTEN ALBERTINA- Eugene PARK
BURG-
GASSE
PLATZ
PLATZ HEGELGASSE
BREITEG.
SIEBENST ERNGASSE Museumsquartier SCHILLERPLATZ MAHLERSTR. SCHUBERTRING
MUSEUMSPLATZ
STIFT-
OPERNRING
ELISABETHSTRASSE
Akademie
LINDENG. GASSE SCHWEIGHOFERG. RAHLG. der Bildenden KÄRNTNER RING
NIBELUNGENGASSE
Künste
MARIAHILFERSTRASSE LEHÁRG. WIENZEILE Karlsplatz
BÖSENDORFERSTR.
SCHWARZENBERGSTR.
K I R C H E N G A S S E
FRIEDRICHSTR.
LOTHRINGERS T R.
NASCHMARKT PANIGLG. KARLS- SCHWARZEN-
RECHTE
BERGPLATZ
PLATZ
GUSSHAUSSTRASSE
KARLSG.
MOZART-
PAULANERG.
PLATZ
Lipizzaner stallion at the Spanish Riding School in the Hofburg WIEDNER HAUPSTRASSE
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VIENNA  557


Greater Vienna 14 Stockerau Brno 8
A L S E R B A C H S T R A S S E Alte Donau 3 Donaustadt
A22
Museum
Moderner GLASERG. R Ö G E R G AS S E Währing A22 8 3
Kunst R O S S A U
LIECHTENSTEIN- Herrnals 3b
PARK Franz-Josefs- 227 8
Bahnhof
BOL T ZMA
PLATZ P O R Z E L L A N G A S S E S E E G A S S E E R Praterstern-
ALSERGRUND PRAMERGASSE Josefstadt Wien Nord
LIECHTENSTE IN-
WIDERHOFER- NN-
STRUDLHOFGASSE STRASSE Penzing 223 221 227 A23 Donau

Lände
BAUERNFELD- MÜLLNERGASSE Rossauer Westbahnhof 1 Landstrasse
PLATZ HANGASSE L Ä N D E 1 A20 Vienna International
Bus Terminal
L G A S S E SENSENGASSE THURNGASSE SERVITENGASSE B E R G G A S S E Linz Meidling 221 Favoriten Simmering Schwechat
G ASSE
A4
Airport
Haupt-
PORZELLA NG.
bahnhof
Melk
HÖRLGASSE
225
S P I T A W Ä H R I N G E R S T R A S S E LIECHTENSTEINSTR. TÜRKENSTRASSE FRANZ- JOSEFS- KAI Hietzing 224 A23 17 225 A23 16 A2H 0 km Bratislava
2
SCHLICK-
Graz
SCHWARZS PANIERSTR. KOLINGASSE PLATZ Wiener Neustadt Eisenstadt 0 miles 2
WASAGASSE
SCHOTTENRING
GARNISON-
OTTO- WAGNER- GASSE MARIA - THERESIENSTRASSE Schottenring Donaukanal Key
GONZAGAG.
PLATZ ROOSEVELT- NEUTORG.
SKODAG. ALSER STRASSE UNIVERSITÄTSSTR. BÖRSEGASSE WERDERTORG. Area of main map
PLATZ
HEINRICHSG.
Schottentor
PLATZ
LAUDONGASSE SCHLÖSSELG. WICKENBURGG. LIEBIGG. Universität HOHENSTAUFENG. CONCORDIA- RUDOLFS- MORZIN-
PLATZ
INNERE
Altes
PLATZ
Museum LAMMG. SCHOTTENG. STADT Rathaus SALZG
KO CHG A SSE
für STRASSE
Volkskunde FL ORIANIGASSE RATHAUS- N G RENNG. TIEFER WIPPLINGER STRASSE F RANZ - JO SEFS - KAI
SALVATORG.
JOSEFSTADT LANDESGERICHTSSTRASSE R AT H A U S S T R A S S E Neues PARK FREYUNG GRABEN JUDEN- Schweden JULIUS-RAAB-
BAUERNMARKT
AM
platz
Rathaus Rathaus RATHAUS- U N I V E R S I TÄT S R I GASSE NAGLERGASSE TUCHLAUBEN MARC-AUREL-STR. RIE S FLEISCHMARKT PLATZ
PLATZ
HOF
ROTENTUR M
PLATZ
L E D E R E R G A S S E

SCHMIDT-
KOHLMARKT
PLATZ
BUCHFELDG.
LE NAUGASSE
FRIEDRICH- REICHSRAT- BANK- Herrengasse WALLNERSTR. GRABEN Stephans- STRASSE POST GAS SE DOMINIKANERBASTEI STU B ENRING Key
JOSEFSTÄDTER- STRASSE
BRANDSTÂTTE
platz
HERRENGASSE
JOSEFSG. MICHAELER- W O L L Z E I L E B I B E R S T R A S S E Sight / Place of interest
PLATZ
PIARISTEN- GASSE
VOLKS-
ZELTGASSE NEUDEGGERG. AUERSPERGSTR. Parlament GARTEN REITSCHULG. STEPHANS- S C H U L E R S T R A S S E Pedestrian street
PLATZ
L A N G E G A S S E
SPIEGELGAS SE
LERCHENFELDER STR. SCHMERLING- JOSEFS- DOROTHEERG. W E I H B U R G - STUBENBASTEI Stubentor
SINGERSTR .
S T R O Z Z I G A S S E
PLATZ
PLATZ
HELDEN-
PLATZ KÄRNTNERSTRASSE
NEUSTIFTGASSE BURGRING Lobkowitz HIMMELPFORT- PARKRING
Palais
Volkstheater AUGUSTINERSTR. G A S S E
MUSEUMSSTR.
MARIA- Winter Palace S E I L E R STÄT T E STADT-
of Prince
B U R G G A S S E THERESIEN- GARTEN ALBERTINA- Eugene PARK
BURG-
GASSE
PLATZ
PLATZ HEGELGASSE
BREITEG.
MUSEUMSPLATZ
SIEBENST ERNGASSE Museumsquartier SCHILLERPLATZ MAHLERSTR. SCHUBERTRING 0 meters 500
STIFT-
OPERNRING
ELISABETHSTRASSE
Akademie
LINDENG. GASSE SCHWEIGHOFERG. RAHLG. der Bildenden KÄRNTNER RING 0 yards 500
NIBELUNGENGASSE
Künste
BÖSENDORFERSTR.
MARIAHILFERSTRASSE LEHÁRG. WIENZEILE Karlsplatz
WIEDNER HAUPSTRASSE
SCHWARZENBERGSTR.
K I R C H E N G A S S E
FRIEDRICHSTR.
LOTHRINGERS T R.
NASCHMARKT PANIGLG. KARLS- SCHWARZEN-
RECHTE
BERGPLATZ
PLATZ
GUSSHAUSSTRASSE Getting Around
KARLSG.
The center of the city is easily explored on foot.
Trams 1, 2, 71, and D take you along parts of the
Ringstrasse past many of the main sights. To see
MOZART-
PAULANERG.
PLATZ these in old-world style, but at great expense,
hire a horse-drawn Fiaker. The suburbs are served
by the U-bahn (subway) and S-bahn services,
although the latter is of more use to locals.
For keys to symbols see back flap
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558  GERM AN Y , A USTRIA , AND SWITZERLAND


1 Hofburg

What began as a small fortress in 1275 grew over the centuries into
a vast palace, the Hofburg. It was the seat of Austrian power for
over six centuries, and successive rulers were all anxious to leave
their mark. The various buildings range in style from Gothic to late
19th-century Neo-Renaissance. The complex was still expanding
up until a few years before the Habsburgs fell from power in 1918.
The presence of the imperial court had a profound effect on
the surrounding area, with noble families
competing to site their palaces as close
as possible to the Hofburg.

















. Augustinerkirche
The former parish church of the Habsburgs houses
the spectacular late 18th-century tomb of Maria
Christina, Maria Theresa’s favorite daughter, by
Antonio Canova.

. Spanish
Riding School
The white
Lipizzaner horses
are stabled in the
Stallburg opposite
the Riding School
itself, where they
are trained
and give
performances.


KEY
1 The Schatzkammer (rooms 5 The Albertina houses a collection
containing the Hofburg’s collection of Old Master drawings and prints.
of treasure) are housed in the Alte 6 Burggarten
Burg, the core of the old palace.
7 The Burgtor or outer gate was
2 The Michaelertor is the gate built to a design by Peter Nobile in
through which visitors reach the 1821–4.
older parts of the palace. 8 Heldenplatz
3 Stallburg 9 The Burgkapelle, the Hofburg’s Prunksaal
The showpiece of the Austrian
4 Statue of Joseph II (1806) chapel, is where the famous Vienna National Library (1722–35) is
in Josefsplatz Boys’ Choir sings. the grand, wood-paneled
Prunksaal, or Hall of Honor.
For hotels and restaurants see p574 and p575


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VIENNA  559


Mozart Memorial (1896)
Viktor Tilgner’s statue of VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
the composer stands
just inside the Practical Information
Ringstrasse entrance. Michaelerplatz 1, A-1010.
Transport
 Stephansplatz, Herrengasse,
Volkstheater. @ 48A, 57A. v D,
1, 2, 71. For details of museums,
see p560. ∑ hofburg.wien.info






















Neue Burg
A monument to
the great general,
Eugene of Savoy
(1663–1736), stands in
front of the newest
wing of the palace,
completed in 1913.
Volksgarten



















. State Apartments
The table in the state Schweizertor
banqueting hall is laid as This 16th-century gateway leads
it used to be in the latter to the Schweizerhof, the oldest
part of the reign of Franz part of the Hofburg, originally a
Joseph I (1848–1916). stronghold with four towers.




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560  GERM AN Y , A USTRIA , AND SWITZERLAND

Exploring the Hofburg Complex

The vast Hofburg complex contains the former imperial
apartments and treasuries (Schatzkammer) of the Habsburgs,
several museums, a chapel, a church, the Austrian National
Library, the Winter Riding School, and the President of
Austria’s offices. The entrance to the imperial apartments and
the treasuries is through the Michaelertor on Michaelerplatz.
10th-century crown of the Holy Roman
State Apartments Empire, Schatzkammer
Michaelerkuppel-Feststiege.
Tel 01-533 7570. Open 9am–5pm displayed in 21 rooms, known as
daily. & 8 ∑ hofburg-wien.at the Schatzkammer or Treasury.
The State Apartments They include relics of the Holy
(Kaiserappartements) in the Roman Empire, the crown jewels,
Reichkanzleitrakt (1726–30) and and liturgical objects of the
the Amalienburg (1575) include imperial court. Admire the
the rooms used by Franz Joseph dazzling gold, silver, and porcelain
from 1857 to 1916, Empress once used at state banquets.
Elisabeth’s apartments from
1854 to 1898, and those where Burgkapelle
Czar Alexander I lived during Schweizerhof. Tel 01-533 9927.
the Congress of Vienna in 1815. Open 10am–2pm Mon–Thu,
Portrait of the Empress Elisabeth by 11am– 1pm Fri. Closed Jan 1,
Winterhalter (1865) Spanish Riding School Nov 1, Dec 8. & Vienna Boys’ Choir:
Tel 01-533 9031. Open for Jan–Jun & Sep–Dec: 9:15am Sun
Neue Burg performances & morning training (book by phone). &
∑ hofmusikkapelle.gv.at
Heldenplatz. Tel 01-5252 4484. Tue–Fri (except Jul). Closed public
Open 10am–6pm Wed–Sun. & hols. & 7 some areas. ∑ srs.at From the Schweizerhof, steps
The massive curved Neue Burg The Spanish Riding School is lead up to the Burgkapelle,
on Heldenplatz was added to believed to have been founded originally constructed in 1296.
the Hofburg in 1881–1913. in 1572 to cultivate the classic The interior has Gothic statues
Archaeological finds from skills of haute école horseman- in canopied niches. On Sundays,
Ephesus are on display in ship. By breeding and training visitors can hear the Wiener
the Ephesos Museum, while horses from Spain, the Habsburgs Sängerknaben, the Vienna Boys’
pianos that belonged to formed the Spanische Reitschule. Choir (see p573).
Beethoven, Schubert, and Today, 80-minute shows take
Haydn are housed in the place in the building known as Burggarten and Volksgarten
musical instrument museum – the Winter Riding School, built Burgring/Opernring/Dr-Karl-Renner-
the Sammlung alter Musik- in 1729–35 to a design by Josef Ring. Open daily.
instrumente. The weapons Emanuel Fischer von Erlach. Some of the space left around
collection in the Hofjagd the Hofburg after Napoleon had
und Rüstkammer is one of Schatzkammer razed part of the city walls was
the finest in Europe. There is Schweizerhof. Tel 01-525 240. transformed by the Habsburgs
also an excellent ethnological Open 9am–5:30pm Wed–Mon. into gardens.
collection – the Weltmuseum Closed Jan 1, May 1, Nov 1, Dec 25. The Volksgarten opened to
Wien, as well as collections from & 7 ∑ khm.at the public in 1820, but the
the Kunsthistorisches Museum Treasures amassed during Burggarten was the palace’s
(see p562). centuries of Habsburg rule are private garden until 1918.
Augustinerkirche
Augustinerstrasse 3. Tel 01-533 7099.
Open daily. ∑ hochamt.at
The church has one of the best-
preserved 14th-century Gothic
interiors in Vienna. In the Loreto
Chapel are a series of silver urns
that contain the hearts of the
Habsburg family. The church is
also celebrated for its music,
with masses by Schubert or
Haydn performed here on
Sundays and holidays. Ornamental pond in the Volksgarten, with Burgtheater in the background
For hotels and restaurants see p574 and p575


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VIENNA  561

2 Burgtheater
Universitätsring 2, A-1014. Tel 01-51444
4140.  Schottentor. v 1, 71, D.
Open for performances. Closed Good
Fri, Dec 24; Jul & Aug (exc for guided
tours). & 7 8 3pm daily (call
01-5144 44140). ∑ burgtheater.at
The Burgtheater is the most
prestigious stage in the
German-speaking world. The
original theater, built in Maria
Theresa’s reign, was replaced
in 1888 by today’s Italian
Renaissance-style building
by Karl von Hasenauer and Auditorium of the Staatsoper, the Vienna State Opera House
Gottfried Semper. It closed for
refurbishment in 1897 after the chapels are the result of the event was seen as a
discovery that several seats had rebuilding in the 14th and 15th symbolic blow to the city.
no view of the stage. At the end centuries, while some of the With a brand new auditorium
of World War II, a bomb outbuildings, such as the Lower and stage, the Opera House
devastated the building, leaving Vestry, are Baroque additions. reopened in November 1955
only the side wings containing The lofty vaulted interior with a performance of
the Grand Staircases intact. The contains an impressive Beethoven’s Fidelio.
restoration was so successful collection of works of art.
that today it is hard to tell the Masterpieces of Gothic 5 Naturhistorisches
new parts from the old. sculpture include the fabulously
intricate pulpit, several of the Museum
figures of saints adorning the Burgring 7, A-1014. Tel 01-52177 217.
piers, and the canopies over  Volkstheater. @ 48A. v 1, 2, 46,
many of the side altars. To the 49, 71, D. Open 9am–6:30pm Thu–
left of the High Altar is the Mon (to 9pm Wed). Closed Jan 1, May
15th-century winged Wiener 1, Nov 1, Dec 25. & 8 Wed & Sun
Neustädter Altar bearing the (rooftop). 7 ∑ nhm-wien.ac.at
painted images of 72 saints. The
altar panels open out to reveal Almost the mirror image of
delicate sculpture groups. The the Kunsthistorisches Museum,
most spectacular Renaissance the Natural History Museum
work is the tomb of Friedrich III, was designed by the same
while the High Altar adds a architects, and opened in
flamboyant Baroque note. 1889. Its collections include
archaeological, anthropological,
Detail from the Wiener Neustädter Altar in mineralogical, zoological, and
the Stephansdom 4 Staatsoper geological displays. There are
3 Stephansdom Opernring 2, A-1010. Tel 01-51444 casts of dinosaur skeletons, the
2250.  Karlsplatz. v 1, 2, 71, D. world’s largest display of skulls
Stephansplatz 3, A-1010. Tel 01-51552 Open for performances. & 7 8 illustrating the history of man,
3054.  Stephansplatz. @ 1A, 2A. by arrangement (call 51444-2613). one of Europe’s most
Open daily. 7 ∑ stephanskirche.at ∑ wiener-staatsoper.at comprehensive
collections of gems,
The Stephansdom, with its Vienna’s opera house, the prehistoric sculpture,
magnificent glazed-tile roof, is Staatsoper, was the first Bronze Age items,
the heart and soul of Vienna. It of the grand Ringstrasse and extinct birds
is no mere coincidence that the buildings to be and mammals. In
urns containing the entrails of completed; it opened the archaeological
some of the Habsburgs lie in a on May 25, 1869 to section, look out for
vault beneath its main altar. the strains of Mozart’s the celebrated Venus
A church has stood on the Don Giovanni. Built in of Willendorf, a
site for over 800 years, but all Neo-Renaissance style, 25,000-year-old
that remains of the original it initially failed to Palaeolithic fertility
13th-century Romanesque impress the Viennese. figurine, and finds from
church are the Giants’ Doorway Yet when it was hit by the early Iron Age
and Heathen Towers. The Gothic a bomb in 1945 and Venus of Willendorf, settlement at
nave, the choir, and the side largely destroyed, Naturhistorisches Museum Hallstatt (see p568).




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562  GERM AN Y , A USTRIA , AND SWITZERLAND


7 Museums-
Quartier Wien
Museumsplatz 1. Tel 01-523 5881.
 MuseumsQuartier, Volkstheater.
@ 48A to Volkstheater. v 49 to
Volkstheater. Visitor Centre:
Open 10am–7pm daily. & 8
7 0 - ∑ mqw.at
This museum complex is one
of the largest cultural centers in
the world, housed in what was
once the imperial stables and
carriage houses. Here, you will
find art museums, venues for
Hunters in the Snow by Peter Brueghel the Elder (1565) film, theater, architecture, dance,
new media, and a children’s
6 Kunsthistorisches collection of 16th-century creativity center. The visitor
Museum Venetian paintings, with a center is a good starting point.
comprehensive range of Titians
Among the attractions is the
Maria-Theresien-Platz. Tel 01-525 and great works by Giovanni Leopold Museum which focuses
4025.  MuseumsQuartier, Bellini and Tintoretto. Also on on Austrian art, including many
Volkstheater. @ 57A. v D, 1, 2, 71. show are the bizarre vegetable works by Egon Schiele and
Open 10am–6pm Tue–Sun (Jun–Aug: portrait heads, representing the Gustav Klimt. The Museum of
10am–6pm daily); picture gallery also four seasons, made for Emperor Modern Art Ludwig Foundation
6–9pm Thu. Closed Jan 1, May 1, Nov Rudolf II by Giuseppe Vienna shows contemporary
1, Dec 25. & 7 = 8 ∑ khm.at Arcimboldo (1527–93). and modern art from around the
The German section is rich in world. ZOOM Kinder-museum
The Museum of the History of 16th-century paintings. There offers a lively introduction to
Art attracts more than one and are several works by Dürer, the world of the museum for
a half million visitors each year. including his Madonna children. Architekturzentrum
Its collections are with the Pear (1512). is dedicated to 20th- and
based largely on The most 21st-century architecture.
those built up interesting
over a number of the Spanish
of centuries by works are the 8 Freud Museum
the Habsburgs. portraits of Berggasse 19. Tel 01-319 1596.
The picture the Spanish  Schottentor. @ 40A. v D.
gallery occupies Blue ceramic hippopotamus from royal family by Open 10am–6pm daily. &
the first floor. The Egypt (around 2000 BC) Diego Velázquez ∑ freud-museum.at
collection focuses (1599–1660).
on Old Masters from the 15th On the ground floor are No. 19 Berggasse is very like any
to the 18th centuries. Because the Greek, Roman, Egyptian, other 19th-century apartment
of the links between the and Near Eastern collections, in Vienna, yet it is now one of
Habsburgs and the Netherlands, with new rooms devoted the city’s most famous addresses.
Flemish painting is well specifically to Greek and Roman The father of psychoanalysis,
represented. About half the antiquities. Among the Egyptian Sigmund Freud, received
surviving works of Peter Brueg- and Near Eastern antiquities is patients here from 1891 to 1938.
hel the Elder (c.1525–69) are an entire 5th-Dynasty tomb The flat housed Freud’s family,
held by the museum, including chapel from Giza (c.2400 BC) too. Memorabilia on display
The Tower of Babel and most of and a splendid bust of King
the cycle of The Seasons. Tuthmosis III (c.1460 BC).
The Dutch paintings range The sculpture and decorative
from genre scenes of great arts collection (Kunstkammer
domestic charm to magnificent Wien) houses some fine, late
landscapes. All the Rembrandts Gothic religious statues by artists
on show are portraits, including such as Tilman Riemen schneider
the famous Large Self-Portrait (c.1460–1531), and curiosities
of the artist in a plain smock owned by various Habsburg
(1652). The only Vermeer is the monarchs, such as automata
enigmatic allegorical painting, and scientific instru ments, as
The Artist’s Studio (1665). The well as the famous saliera, or Beautifully restored patients’ waiting room
Italian galleries have a strong salt cellar, by Benvenuto Cellini. in the Freud Museum
For hotels and restaurants see p574 and p575


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VIENNA  563


include letters and books,
furnishings, and photographs.
Even his hat and cane are on
show. The apartment was
abandoned when the Nazis
forced Freud to leave, but
still preserves an intimate
domestic atmosphere.

9 Museum of
Applied Arts
Stubenring 5. Tel 01-711 360.  Group of stone owls decorating the Secession Building
Stubentor, Landstrasse. @ 3A, 74A.
v 2. Open 10am–10pm Tue, showcase for the Secession saint of the plague. Johann
10am–6pm Wed–Sun. Closed Jan 1, movement’s artists in 1898. Bernhard Fischer von Erlach’s
May 1, Nov 1, Dec 25. & 7 0 = The almost windowless eclectic Baroque masterpiece
8 ∑ mak.at building is a squat cube with borrows from the architecture
four towers. The filigree globe of ancient Greece and Rome.
The MAK (Museum für of entwined laurel leaves on The interior was embellished
angewandte Kunst) was founded the roof gave rise to the with carvings and altarpieces
in 1864 as a museum for art and building’s nickname: by leading artists of the day.
industry. Over the years, it also “The Golden Cabbage.” Johann Michael Rottmayr’s
acquired objects representing Inside, Gustav Klimt’s famous huge fresco in the cupola
new artistic movements. The Beethoven Frieze, designed in (1725–30) depicts St. Charles
museum has a fine collection 1902, covers three walls and is in heaven interceding for
of furniture, including some 34 m (110 ft) long. deliverance from the plague.
classical works of the German
cabinet-maker
David Roentgen, q Karlskirche w Albertina
textiles, glass, Karlsplatz. Tel 01-505 6294. Albertinaplatz 1. Tel 01-534 830.
Islamic and East  Karlsplatz. @ 4A. v D, 1, 2.  Karlsplatz, Stephansplatz. @ 2A.
Asian art, and fine Open daily. & ∑ karlskirche.at v D, 1, 2, 71. Open 10am–6pm daily
Renaissance (to 9pm Wed). & 7 8 = 0
jewelry. There is During Vienna’s plague ∑ albertina.at
also a whole room epidemic of 1713, Karl VI vowed
full of Biedermeier that, as soon as the city was Hidden away in a corner of the
furniture. The delivered, he would build a Hofburg is the Albertina, a
most important church dedicated to St. Charles palace named after Duke Albert
Austrian artistic Borromeo (1538–84), a patron of Sachsen-Teschen, Maria
movement was Theresa’s son-in-law. Its
the Secession, collection includes one
formed by artists million prints, 65,000
Brass vase who seceded watercolors and drawings,
(1903) by Kolo from the Vienna and over 70,000 photo-
Moser
academy in 1897. graphs. The gems of the
Their style, also collection are by Dürer,
known as Jugendstil, is rep- with Michelangelo and
resented through the many and Rubens also well repre-
varied productions of the Wiener sented. Picasso heads a
Werkstätte (Viennese Workshops), fine 20th-century section.
a cooperative arts and crafts The Batliner Coll ection
studio, founded in 1903. traces the pro gression
from Impression ism
0 Secession to Modernism.
Building The palace has been
restored to its former
Friedrichstrasse 12. Tel 01-587 5307. glory and now, for the
 Karlsplatz. Open 10am–6pm first time in over 200
Tue–Sun. & 7 ∑ secession.at years, it is possible to
visit the Habsburg State
Joseph Maria Olbrich designed Rooms with their
the unusual Secession Building Karlskirche, with column showing scenes from the Neoclassical architecture
in Jugendstil style as a life of St. Charles Borromeo and interior decoration.




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564  GERM AN Y , A USTRIA , AND SWITZERLAND

Vienna: Farther Afield the Belvedere consists of two
palaces linked by a formal
For a city of 1.6 million inhabitants, Vienna is surprisingly garden laid out in the French
compact. Nonetheless, some of the most interesting sights style by Dominique Girard. The
are away from the city center. At Belvedere, the palace and huge garden is sited on three
gardens of Prince Eugene impress with their scale and levels, linked by two elaborate
cascading waterfalls. Different
grandeur. Farther away at Schönbrunn sprawls the immense areas of the garden are meant
palace and gardens so loved by Empress Maria Theresa. There to convey a complicated series
are also many parks and gardens around the city, the largest of Classical allusions: the lower
and most interesting of which is the Prater. A former hunting part of the garden represents
ground of the Habsburgs, it is now open to the public for the domain of the Four
numerous leisure activities. Elements, the center is
Parnassus, and the upper
section is Olympus.
famous landmarks. There Standing at the highest point
is also a planetarium, an of the garden, the Upper
exhibition center, and a Belvedere has a more elaborate
trotting stadium nearby. facade than the Lower
The southern side Belvedere, with lavish
of the Prater contains stone ornamentation,
extensive woodland – statues, and
interlaced with cycle balustrades. The
paths and a municipal domed copper roofs
golf course. There is also of the end pavilions
the Liliputbahn miniature were designed to
The colorful Volksprater Funfair, Prater railway that runs for resemble Turkish
almost 4 km (2 miles) tents – an
e Prater from March until October. allusion to Prince
Prater.  Praterstern. v 0, 5. Park: Eugene’s many
Open daily. Ferris Wheel: Open daily. victories over the
& ∑ prater.wien.info r Belvedere Turks. In fact, the
whole palace
Upper Belvedere: Prinz-Eugen-Strasse
Originally an imperial hunting 27. Tel 01-795 560. @ 13A, 69A. was intended to
ground, this huge area of woods  Quartier Belvedere. v 0, 18, D. be a symbolic Sphinx from Upper
and meadows between the Open 10am–6pm daily. & 7 8 reflection of the Belvedere garden
Danube and the Danube Canal Lower Belvedere: Rennweg 6. prince’s power
was opened to the public by Tel 01-795 570. v 71, D. Open and glory, and was appropriate
Joseph II in 1766. The central 10am–6pm daily. & 7 8 Gardens: to the grand festive occasions
avenue, or Hauptallee, stretches Open daily. 7 ∑ belvedere.at for which it was originally used.
for 5 km (3 miles) through the The many impressive interiors
center of the Prater, and was for The Belvedere was built by include the Sala Terrena, with
a long time the preserve of the Johann Lukas von Hildebrandt four Herculean figures
nobility and their footmen. as the summer residence of supporting the ceiling, and a
During the 19th century, the Prince Eugene of Savoy, the grand, sweeping staircase, the
northern end of the Prater brilliant military commander ornately decorated chapel, and
became a massive funfair, whose strategies helped the opulent Marble Hall.
dominated by a giant ferris vanquish the Turks in 1683. The building also houses
wheel, one of Vienna’s most Situated on a gently sloping hill, the collections of 19th- and














Imposing Baroque facade of Prince Eugene’s Upper Belvedere palace
For hotels and restaurants see p574 and p575


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VIENNA  565


architecture is complemented
by the extensive formal gardens,
with their neat lawns and
careful planting. An array of
fountains and statues is framed
by trees and alleyways. The
gardens also contain a huge
tropical Palm House with an
interesting collection of exotic
plants, a small zoo, a butterfly
house, an orangery, and the
Gloriette – a large Neoclassical
arcade which crowns the hill
behind the palace.
Inside the palace, the Rococo
The Sala Terrena, the grand entrance hall of the Upper Belvedere decorative schemes were
devised by Nikolaus Pacassi. In
20th-century paintings t Schönbrunn the state rooms, the dominant
belonging to the Austrian Palace and Gardens features are white paneling,
Gallery. Many of the works often adorned with gilded
are by Austrian painters, Schönbrunner Schloss Strasse 47, ornamental framework. The
including an excellent Schönbrunn. Tel 01-811 10. rooms vary from the extremely
 Schönbrunn. @ 10A. v 10, 58.
collection by Gustav Klimt. Open daily. & (gardens free). 7 - sumptuous – such as the
There are also works by = 8 ∑ schoenbrunn.at Millionen-Zimmer, paneled with
Ferdinand Georg Waldmüller fig-wood inlaid with Persian
and Van Gogh. This magnificent former miniatures – to the quite plain
The Lower Belvedere was summer residence of the apartments of Franz Joseph and
used by Prince Eugene for imperial family takes its name Empress Elisabeth.
day-to-day living, and the from a “beautiful spring” that The Memorial Room contains
building itself is less elaborate was found nearby. An earlier the portrait and effigy of the
than the Upper Belvedere. hunting lodge was destroyed Duke of Reichstadt, the son of
Many of the rooms are just as by the Turks, so Leopold I asked Napoleon and Princess Maria
grand, however, for example Johann Bernhard Fischer von Louisa, daughter of Austrian
the ornate, golden Hall of Erlach to design a grand Emperor Franz I. A virtual
Mirrors. A museum here shows Baroque residence here in 1695. prisoner in the palace after
temporary exhibitions. Next The project was finally Napoleon’s fall from power,
door to the Lower Belvedere completed by Nikolaus Pacassi the duke died here in 1832
is the handsome Orangery, in the mid-18th century, aged 21. Alongside the palace
originally used to shelter tender under Empress Maria Theresa. is a museum of imperial
plants in winter. The strict symmetry of the coaches and sleighs.
Master pieces from the
Baroque collection are exhibited
on the first floor of the east
wing in the Upper Belvedere.
These include the character
heads by Franz Xaver
Messerschmidt and sculptures
by Georg Raphael Donner, as
well as paintings by J. M.
Rottmayr, Martino Atomonte,
Daniel Gran, and Paul Troger.
The ground floor of the Upper
Belvedere houses some
masterpieces of Austrian
Medieval Art. These include the
Znaimer Altar, the seven panels
painted by Rueland Frueauf the
Elder (1490–94) which show
the Passion taking place in
an Austrian setting, and the
12th-century Romanesque
Stammerberg Crucifix, one of
the oldest surviving examples
of Tyrolean woodcarving. The beautiful Schönbrunn Palace, as seen from the gardens




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566  GERM AN Y , A USTRIA , AND SWITZERLAND






















The historic center of Graz, overlooked by the thickly-wooded Schlossberg
2 Eisenstadt
P Schloss Esterházy completed in 1500. To the south
* 14,000. £ @ n Hauptstrasse Esterházyplatz. Tel 02682-719 3000. are the late-Gothic Cathedral of
35 (02682-673 90). Open Apr–mid-Nov: 10am–5pm St. Ägydius, with its striking
∑ eisenstadt-tourismus.at daily; mid-Nov–Dec: Fri–Sun. & Baroque interior, and the
Mausoleum of Ferdinand II,
The main attraction of Eisenstadt 3 Graz designed by the Italian Pietro de
is the grand residence of the Pomis in the late 17th century.
Esterházy princes, the Hungarian * 265,000. k 9 km (6 miles) S. £ The Universalmuseum
aristocrats who claimed to be @ n Herrengasse 16 (0316-807 50). Joanneum includes the Neue
descendants of Attila. Schloss Galerie (New Gallery), previously
Esterházy was built for Prince Almost entirely surrounded by housed in the Herberstein Palace,
Paul Esterházy in 1663–73. In the mountains, Graz is Austria’s and the Natural History Museum.
Haydnsaal, a huge hall of state second largest city. During the The Alte Galerie (Old Gallery) at
decorated with 18th-century Middle Ages, its importance Schloss Eggenberg (see below)
frescoes, the famous composer rivaled that of Vienna. In the late houses the Archaeology Museum
Joseph Haydn (1732–1809) 14th century, the Habsburg and a notable coin collection.
conducted the family orchestra. Duke Leopold III chose Graz as Also of interest is the
Haydn lived on Haydngasse, and his base, and in the following Landeszeughaus, with its
his house is now a museum. He century, the town played a vital impressive array of over 30,000
is buried in the Bergkirche, strategic role in the war against weapons and pieces of armor.
west of the palace. the invading Turks.
Until World War II, Eisen stadt The city is dominated by the E Universalmuseum Joanneum
had a large Jewish community, Schlossberg, the huge hill on Joanneumsviertel 5. Tel 0316-8017
and there is a Jewish Museum which the town’s medieval 9716. Open 10am–6pm Tue–Sun. &
near the palace. defenses were built. During ∑ museum-joanneum.at
the Napoleonic Wars, Graz was
occupied by French troops, Environs
who blew up most of the A few kilometers west of the city,
fortifications in 1809. Among the Schloss Eggenberg was built by
ruins visible today are a 28 m Johann Ulrich von Eggenberg in
(92 ft) high clock tower, the 1625–35. Open daily, the
Uhrturm, dating from 1561, and Baroque palace houses the
the Glockenturm (bell tower), Alte Galerie (an archaeology
from 1588. The former houses museum), a collection of
the Schlossbergmuseum, with local prehistoric finds, coins,
exhibits illustrating the history antiquities, and gemstones. Its
of Graz. From the summit of the rich collection of paintings
hill, there are splendid views. includes works by Lucas Cranach
At the foot of the Schlossberg the Elder (1472–1553) and Peter
lies the Old Town, a UNESCO Brueghel the Younger (1564–
World Heritage site. The 1638). There are displays of
Schloss Esterházy, a mix of Baroque medieval Burg (fortress) was stuffed animals in the Jagd-
and Neoclassical styles built in several stages and museum (Hunting Museum).
For hotels and restaurants see p574 and p575


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A USTRIA  567

4 Melk and the
Wachau Hall, home to the
Museum Linz Genesis,
£ 4 Melk. n Babenbergerstrasse, which tells the history
Melk (02752-5230 7410). Benedictine of the city. The 20-m-
abbey: Open May–Sep: 9am–5:30pm (66-ft-) high marble
daily; Apr & Oct: 9am–4:30pm daily; Dreifaltigkeitssäule
winter: guided tours only (11am and (Trinity Column) was
2pm daily). & ∑ stiftmelk.at completed in 1723.
In the southeast
Melk lies at the western end of corner of the square
one of the loveliest stretches of is the Church of St.
the River Danube, the Wachau, Ignatius. Also known as
which extends some 40 km the Alter Dom, it was
(25 miles) downstream to Krems. built in the 17th century
Dotted with Renaissance in Baroque style and
houses and old towers, Melk boasts a wonderfully
itself is most famous for its ornate pulpit and
Baroque Benedictine abbey, altarpiece. Nearby, the
a treasure trove of paintings, Landhaus is well worth
sculptures, and decorative art. seeing for its three
One of its most impressive beautiful Renaissance
rooms is the Marble Hall, with The opulent interior of the 17th-century courtyards and loggia.
beautiful ceiling paintings Church of St. Ignatius in Linz The streets west
depicting mythological scenes. 5 Linz of the Hauptplatz lead
A boat trip is the best way to up to Linz’s hilltop castle, built
enjoy the Wachau, though for * 198,000. k 10 km (6 miles) SW. for Friedrich V (Holy Roman
the energetic, there are cycle £ @ n Hauptplatz 1 (0732-7070 Emperor Friedrich III) in the
paths along the banks of the 2009). ∑ linz.at 15th century. The castle
river. Landmarks to look for houses the Schlossmuseum,
traveling downstream include Austria’s third city, Linz has been with paintings, sculptures,
the picturesque castle of inhabited since Roman times, and historical artifacts.
Schönbühel and the ruined when it was a port called Lentia. On the other side of the river,
medieval fortress at Aggstein. In the early 16th century, it the Ars Electronica Center is
Though not visible from the developed into an important a superb new museum that
river, nearby Willendorf is the trading center. Although, today, allows visitors to experiment
site of famous prehistoric finds. Linz is a busy industrial city, the with the latest technological
At the eastern end of the Old Town contains many historic innovations. Hidden away in
Wachau are the well preserved buildings and monuments. the Lentia 2000 shopping mall
medieval towns of Dürnstein The Hauptplatz, one of the is the Lentos Kunstmuseum,
and Krems. The latter’s tiny largest medieval squares in containing a fine collection of
hillside streets offer fine views Europe, is bordered by splendid 19th- and 20th-century Austrian
across the Danube to the Baroque facades. Among the art, including works by Egon
Baroque Göttweig Abbey. finest buildings is the Town Schiele (1890–1918) and Gustav
Klimt (1862–1918).
For splendid views of Linz, take
a ride on the Pöstlingbergbahn
train, which climbs to the top of
Pöstlingberg Hill.
River cruises along the
Danube west to Passau, in
Germany, and east to Vienna
depart from the quay at the
Nibelungenbrücke. On-board
entertainment includes themed
events, such as a “Bavarian
afternoon” or an “Italian night.”
E Ars Electronica Center
Ars-Electronica-Strasse 1. Tel 0732-727
20. Open Tue–Sun. & ∑ aec.at
E Lentos Kunstmuseum
Ernst-Koref-Promenade 11.
Tel 0732-7070 3600. Open Tue–Sun.
Melk’s massive Benedictine abbey on the banks of the Danube & ∑ lentos.at




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568  GERM AN Y , A USTRIA , AND SWITZERLAND


7 Salzburg
* 150,000. k 3 km (2 miles) W.
£ @ n Mozartplatz 5 (0662-8898
7330). _ Salzburger Festspiele (late
Jul–Aug). ∑ salzburg.info
Salzburg rose to prominence
in about AD 700, when a
church and a monastery were
established here. Until 1816,
when it became part of the
Habsburg empire, Salzburg
was an independent city-state
ruled by a succession of prince-
archbishops. Best known as the
birthplace of Wolfgang
Amadeus Mozart, today the city
has a thriving musical tradition.
Each summer, large numbers of
tourists arrive for the Salzburger
Hallstatt, an attractive lakeside village in the Salzkammergut Festspiele, a festival of opera,
classical music, and theater.
6 Hallstatt Environs Salzburg’s medieval fortress,
* 1,000. £ @ 4 n Seestrasse The mountains and the crystal the Festung Hohensalzburg,
99 (06134-8208). clear waters of the Hallstätter looms over the city from its
See offer many opportunities for hilltop position. The castle dates
This pretty village on the bank swimming, water sports, scuba from the 11th century, but the
of the Hallstätter See lies in the diving, hiking, and cycling. There state apartments are an early
Salzkammergut, a stunning are also boat trips on the lake. 16th-century addition.
region of lakes and mountains. At the southern end of the The Residenz, where
The area takes its name from the Hallstätter See, about 2 km Salzburg’s prince-archbishops
rich deposits of salt (salz) that (1 mile) from Hallstatt, are the lived and held court, owes its
have been mined here since Dachstein limestone caves, early Baroque appearance to
the 1st millennium BC. From open daily from May to mid- Archbishop Wolf Dietrich von
Hallstatt, it is possible to visit a October. A cable car from south Raiteneau, who resided here
working mine, the Salzbergwerk, of Obertraun climbs to the from 1587. The palace contains
by taking the cable car from entrance of the caves, giving the Residenzgalerie, a collection
the southern end of the village superb views of the lake and of European art of the 16th to
up to the mine entrance on surrounding mountains. 19th centuries. Among the city’s
the Salzberg mountain. The
Rudolfsturm, the tower that
stands close to the station at Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart
the top, was completed in 1284 Salzburg’s most famous son, Wolfgang
to defend the mine workings. Amadeus Mozart, was born in 1756,
The Museum Hallstatt the son of Leopold, a member of
contains Celtic Iron Age artifacts the Prince-Archbishop’s chamber
discovered near the mines. orchestra. He learnt to play the
Today, the name Hallstatt is harpsichord at the age of 3, and
used to refer to the Celtic by the age of 5 had already
culture that flourished from the written his first compositions.
9th to the 5th centuries BC. From 1763, Mozart traveled widely,
Behind the Pfarrkirche, the performing for the aristocracy
town’s late-Gothic parish across Europe. His mastery of all
the musical genres of the day swiftly
church, the Beinhaus (Charnel earned him renown at home and
House) has been used to store abroad. During his short life, his
human remains since 1600. prodigious output included 56 symphonies,
Wolfgang Amadeus over 20 concertos, and 15 operas, among
E Salzbergwerk Hallstatt Mozart (1756–91) them The Marriage of Figaro and Don
Tel 06132-200 2400. Open Feb–Dec: Giovanni. Mozart’s aspirations to lead the
daily. & ∑ salzwelten.at kind of lifestyle enjoyed by his patrons, however, led him into
E Museum Hallstatt financial difficulties. In his final years, the musician was continually
Tel 06134-828 015. Open Apr–Oct: debt-ridden and prone to depression. He died in 1791 and was
daily; Nov–Mar: Wed–Sun. & buried in a common grave.
∑ museum-hallstatt.at
For hotels and restaurants see p574 and p575


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A USTRIA  569


fine religious buildings are St. the Museum Goldenes Dachl,
Peter’s Abbey and Benedictine which focuses on the life of
monastery, dating from c.AD the Habsburg emperor, who
700, and the Cathedral (Dom), ruled from 1493 to 1519.
begun in 1614 to a design by Innsbruck’s Hofburg (Imperial
Santino Solari. The Franziskaner­ Palace) dates from the 15th
kirche boasts a splendid Baroque century, but was rebuilt in
altarpiece (1709) by Johann Rococo style in the 18th century
Bernhard Fischer von Erlach. by Empress Maria Theresa (ruled
The Salzburg Museum in the 1740–80).
New Residenz shows the history Built in 1555–65, the
of Salzburg throughout the Hofkirche contains the
ages and also hosts temporary impressive mausoleum of
exhibitions. The Mozarts Maximilian I, which features
Geburtshaus is Mozart’s 28 bronze statues. The high-
birthplace, while the Mozart light of the Domkirche St.
Wohnhaus features audio-visual Jakob (1717–22) is Lucas
displays telling the story of his life. Cranach the Elder’s painting
On the right bank of the of the Madonna and Child,
Salzach, Schloss Mirabell, with Innsbruck’s Annasäule, crowned by a which adorns the high altar.
its Baroque garden, was built by statue of the Virgin Mary Innsbruck’s many museums
Archbishop Wolf Dietrich for his 8 Innsbruck include the Tiroler Landes­
Jewish mistress, Salome Alt. Only museum Ferdinandeum, which
a 25-minute bus ride from the * 124,000. k 4 km (2.5 miles) W. has European art from the 15th
city center is the Renaissance £ @ n Burggraben 3 (0512- to the 20th centuries, and the
palace of Hellbrunn, built for 59850). ∑ innsbruck.info Tiroler Volkskunstmuseum,
Salzburg’s Prince-Archbishop with exhibitions of local folk
Markus Sittikus. Capital of the Tyrol region, art and crafts.
Innsbruck grew up at the
+ Festung Hohensalzburg crossroads of the old trade E Museum Goldenes Dachl
Mönchsberg 34. Tel 0662-8424 3011. routes between Germany and Herzog-Friedrichstrasse 15. Tel 0512-
Open daily. & 8 Italy, Vienna, and Switzerland. 5360 1441. Open Tue–Sun. &
P Residenz One of the city’s finest pieces P Hofburg
Residenzplatz 1. Tel 0662-8042 2690. of architecture is the Goldenes Rennweg 1. Tel 0512-587 186.
Open Wed–Mon (daily Jul & Aug). Dachl (Golden Roof), Open daily. &
(Residenzgalerie Wed–Mon). & 8 commissioned by Emperor ∑ hofburg­innsbruck.at
E Salzburg Museum Maximilian I, who chose
Mozartplatz 1. Tel 0662-0808 700. Innsbruck as his imperial capital E Tiroler Landesmuseum
Open 9am–5pm Tue–Sun. Closed Nov at the end of the 15th century. Ferdinandeum
1, Dec 25.& ∑ salzburgmuseum.at Made of gilded copper tiles, the Museumstrasse 15. Tel 0512-59489.
+ Schloss Mirabell roof was constructed in the Open Tue–Sun. &
∑ tiroler­landesmuseen.at
Mirabellplatz 2. Tel 0662-80720. 1490s to cover a balcony used
+ Schloss Hellbrunn by members of the court to E Tiroler Volkskunstmuseum
Fürstenweg 37. Tel 0662-8203 720. observe events in the square Universitätsstrasse 2. Tel 0512-594
Open daily. & 8 ∑ hellbrunn.at below. Beneath the balcony is 89510. Open daily. &


















Salzburg’s magnificent Baroque cathedral, dominating the skyline of the Old Town




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570  GERM AN Y , A USTRIA , AND SWITZERLAND

Practical & Travel Information Facilities for the Disabled
Awareness of the needs of the
Austria is well equipped for tourism in both winter and disabled is growing in Austria.
summer. The extensive winter-sports facilities mean that even Wiener Tourismusverband has a
in the mountainous west of the country, communications are good online information service
good and most roads are kept open all year. Public transport, with details of the ease of wheel­
chair access at tourist sights,
especially the train services between the main cities, is hotels, and public restrooms.
reliable, and banking and exchange facilities are widely
available. The country is generally safe for visitors except for a Etiquette
few unsavory bits of Vienna. Hospitals are of a high standard
and, for lesser ailments, pharmacists are highly respected. Austrians are a conservative
people and formal in their
modes of address. Waiters are
Tourist Information pickpocketing are quite summoned with a deferential
Austria has a wide network of common at the Prater funfair “Herr Ober,” and greetings in the
local and regional tourist offices at night. street are accompanied by the
and the Austrian National In case of emergencies while use of titles, such as “Herr
Tourist Office has branches in on vacation, the appropriate Doktor,” and much handshaking.
many countries abroad. In the services to call are listed in the
busier skiing resorts in winter, Directory opposite.
local offices often stay open Banking and Currency
as late as 9pm. In Vienna, The euro became the unit of
Wiener Tourismusverband is Health Issues currency in Austria in January
a very helpful organization, It is best to take out full health 2002 (see p23).
especially with regard to insurance which also covers Banks are usually the best
forthcoming events and flights home for medical places to change money. Most
booking accommodations. reasons. This is true even for are open Monday to Friday from
visitors from EU countries such 8am to 12:30pm and from
as Great Britain. There is a 1:30pm to 3pm (5:30pm on
Visa Requirements reciprocal arrangement with Thursdays). Some banks,
Citizens of the US, Canada, Austria whereby emergency generally those at main train
Australia, and New Zealand hospital treatment is free upon stations and at airports, stay
need just a passport to visit presentation of a British open longer and do not close
Austria. No visa is required for passport, but obtaining free for lunch. Though major credit
stays of up to three months. treatment can involve rather cards are accepted at most large
Most European Union (EU) a lot of bureaucracy. stores, hotels, and restaurants,
visitors need only a valid identity In the case of a medical they are not used as frequently
card to enter the country. emergency, call an ambulance as, for instance, in the UK or
(Rettungsdienst) or the local France, so it is a good idea to
Doctor on Call. For minor carry some cash with you.
Personal Security
ailments or injuries, visit an Alternatively, payment by debit
Although crime in the cities is Apotheke (pharmacy). All card is widely accepted.
rare, there are a few parts of pharmacies display a distinctive
Vienna that are best avoided red “A” sign. When closed, they
at night, especially around the give the address of the nearest Communications
Wien Nord station. Fights and open pharmacy. The Austrian telecom muni ca­
tions network is run by Telekom
Austria. Calls are among the
The Climate of Austria most expensive in Europe.
VIENNA
Altitude obviously plays an Public phones are slowly being
important role in the climate of °C/ºF phased out, since most people
Austria, the Alpine part of the have cell phones, but you can
country experiencing lower 25/77 make long­distance calls from
temperatures and receiving more 13/55 15/59 13/55 most post offices. The cheapest
rain and snow than Vienna and the 5/41 6/43 way to use your cell phone is to
east. Snow cover in the Alps lasts 2/36 buy a pay­as­you­go SIM card in
-2/28
from November to April. Daytime 5.5 8 4.5 1.5 Austria, thereby avoid high
temperatures in summer can be hrs hrs hrs hrs international roaming charges.
high, especially in the towns, 51 74 40 38 Numbers starting in 05 can be
but the evenings are cool. There mm mm mm mm dialled from anywhere in Austria
is a risk of thunderstorms from month Apr Jul Oct Jan at a local call rate. The postal
June to August. service is reliable, verging on
the pedantic, and posting a



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A USTRIA  571


letter can take some time. package deals, including the price information and helps book
Each letter is carefully weighed of two nights at a good Viennese hotels. In Vienna, there is a
and every size and shape hotel, can be excellent value, phone number for obtaining
coded separately. sometimes costing less than railway information in English
Most post offices are open the economy-class ticket price. (see below).
between 8am and noon and
2pm and 6pm from Monday
to Friday. You can also buy Rail Travel Traveling by Bus
stamps at newsagents. Austria’s rail network is run by the Austria’s long-distance buses
state-owned Österreichische serve those parts of the
Bundesbahnen (ÖBB). country that are not reached
Flying to Austria
Hauptbahnhof Wien station, by train. Bus and train
If you fly from the United States, located at Südtirolerplatz, timetables are well integrated.
there are direct flights with opened for all regional and In most towns, buses leave
Delta Air Lines from New York international routes in 2015. from the train station or the
and Orlando to Vienna’s Some international and post office.
Schwechat airport. Austrian regional connections also go
Airlines flies from New York, directly to Vienna Schwechat Traveling by Car
Washington, and Chicago and airport. The station has
Air Berlin has flights from connections to the U1 subway Even in winter, Austrian road
Miami. Direct flights from line and the Schnellbahn, as conditions are good and
Australia are run by Emirates well as several bus and tram autobahns (highways) link all
Airlines and British Airways, routes. The Westbahnhof the major cities. There are also
which both operate services handles short commuter travel convenient routes into Austria
from Sydney and Melbourne. only, and is served by the U6 from neighboring countries.
Connections to all of the major and U3 subway lines. Trains to Highways are subject to a toll,
European cities are good. There Neusiedl/See, Marchegg, which is paid by buying a
are several flights a day from Bratislava, and Brno also leave windshield sticker valid for a
London’s Gatwick and Heathrow from Hauptbahnhof Wien. certain period of time. Stickers
airports. British Airways is the The Franz-Josefs-Bahnhof, can be bought at the border
main British airline with regular which runs services from the or at post offices, gas stations,
flights to Vienna, and the main north, is served by the U4 and tobacconists throughout
Austrian carrier is Austrian and U6 subway lines, the the country. Tolls are also
Airlines. Ryanair also offers Schnellbahn, and the cross- payable on certain mountain
regular services at low prices. city D tram, which goes directly roads and tunnels. All drivers
You can get APEX tickets if you to Ringstrasse. in Austria must carry their
book two weeks in advance, and The travel agency (Verkeh rs­ driver’s license, car registration
charters are available at very verein) at West bahnhof, open documents, and insurance
competitive prices. Weekend 8am to 9pm daily, provides rail documents.
DIRECTORY
Tourist Offices Wiener Emergency British Airways
Tourismusverband Numbers Tel 0844 493 0787 (UK).
Austrian National Cnr of Albertinaplatz/ ∑ britishairways.com
Tourist Office Tegethoffstrasse/Meyse - Ambulance
∑ austria.info Tel 144. Delta Air Lines
dergasse, Vienna. Tel 01- Tel 01-79567 023.
Australia 24555. ∑ wien.info Doctor on Call Tel 800-221 1212 (US).
36 Carrington Street, 1st Tel 141. ∑ delta.com
floor, Sydney, NSW 2000. Embassies Fire
Tel 02-9299 3621. Emirates Airlines
Australia Tel 122. Tel 01-532 6028.
Canada Mattiellistrasse 2–4, -1010 Police Tel 800-777 3999 (US).
2 Bloor Street West, 400 Vienna. Tel 01-506740. Tel 133. ∑ emirates.com
Toronto, Ontario M4W.
3E2. Tel 416-967 4867. Canada Ryanair
Laurenzerberg 2, A-1010 Airlines Tel 0871-246 0000 (UK).
UK Vienna. Tel 01-5313 83000. ∑ ryanair.com
9–11 Richmond Bldgs, Air Berlin
London W1D 3HF. UK Tel 0820-737 800. Rail Information
Tel 0800-4002 0000. Jaurèsgasse 12, A-1030 ∑ airberlin.com
Vienna. Tel 01-716130. ÖBB
US Austrian Airlines Tel 05-1717.
120 West 45th St, 9th US Tel 05-1766 1000. ∑ oebb.at
floor, New York, NY 10036. Boltzmanngasse 16, A-1090 Tel 800-843 0002 (US).
Tel 212-944 6885. Vienna. Tel 01-31339. ∑ aua.com



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572  GERM AN Y , A USTRIA , AND SWITZERLAND

Shopping and Entertainment modern plays are performed
here and at the associated
Shopping in Austria can be expensive, but it is a good Akademietheater.
place to buy certain high-quality traditional goods, The Volkstheater offers more
such as Loden coats, porcelain, and glass. Famous for its modern plays as well as the
coffee shops, Christmas markets, world-class opera, and occasional classic and some
orchestras, Vienna is the center of entertainment in Austria, operetta performances.
The Raimund Theater and
although some important music festivals are held across the Ronacher are part of the
the country. Outside the city, such rural pleasures as skiing Vereinigte Bühnen Wien, the
and hiking are available in the west of the country, in the city’s own theaters. Both
Tyrol, Salzburger Land, and Salzkammergut regions. specialize in lavish musicals.
The Wiener Festwochen,
held in May and June, features
Opening Hours powder compacts, and similar theater, including musical
Stores usually open at 8:30 or articles, is a Viennese specialty. A theater, at various venues.
9am and close at 6 or 7pm. wide range is available at Petit Vienna has a wide range of
Smaller ones may close for lunch. Point and Maria Stransky. fringe theater from one­man
Most shops stay open all day on Trachten (Austrian costume) shows to Kabarett – satirical
Saturday, especially in larger shops are fun, selling a wide shows not cabarets – but fairly
towns. In rural areas, however, selection of hats, children’s fluent German is needed to
they may close around noon on dresses, jackets, and blouses. appreciate them.
Saturday. Shops are closed on Glassware – including superb
Sundays and public holidays, chandeliers – and Augarten Opera and Operetta
but you can buy items such as porcelain come in highly
groceries, flowers, and news­ original designs, but are very The opera season runs from
papers at major train stations. expensive. Ostovics is a good September to June. The historic
glass and porcelain shop Theater an der Wien is a full­
for such items. The Schloss time venue for opera and other
Food and Drink
Augarten porcelain factory forms of classical music. At the
Austria is justly famous for its is open to visitors. Staatstoper in Vienna, operas
cakes and pastries, and in Vienna are usually performed in the
and large towns a good Café- original language. At the
Konditorei (cake shop and café) Booking Tickets Wiener Volksoper, where the
will mail cakes back home for you. You can buy tickets direct repertoire includes light opera
Buy a prettily­packaged Sacher- from the appropriate box by Mozart and Puccini and
torte, the world­famous Viennese office or reserve them by operettas by Strauss and Lehár,
chocolate cake. In November phone. Agencies are reliable; they are sung in German. The
and December, try the buttery try the Reisebüro Mondial. same singers often appear at
Advent Stollen, stuffed with fruit Vienna’s four state theaters, the the two venues. The New Year’s
and nuts and dusted with icing Burgtheater, Akademietheater, Eve performance at the Opera
sugar, available from the Meinl Opera House, and Volksoper House is always Johan Strauss
am Graben delicatessen or any have a central booking office, the Younger’s Die Fledermaus,
good baker. Specialist chocolate the Bundestheaterkassen. In and famous guests sometimes
shops, such as Altmann & most cases, tickets go on sale make surprise appearances
Kühne, are also worth a visit, one month before the perfor­ during the second act.
both for the unusual packaging mance. Written applications A wonderful smaller opera
and the chocolates themselves. for tickets must reach the house is the Wiener Kammer­
Eiswein (so­called because the Österreichische Bundestheater oper. Here, you can expect
grapes are left on the vines until Verband (address as Bundes­ anything from Rossini and
the first frosts) is a delicious theaterkassen) at least three classic operetta to rock versions
white dessert wine. Zum weeks in advance for opera of familiar operas and opera
Schwarzen Kameel in Vienna tickets, and 10 days ahead for parodies. July sees opera
also sells the rarer red variety. the theaters. Standing­room performances in the Kaiserhof
tickets (over 500 at the Opera courtyard of the palatial
House) are sold at the evening religious foundation at Oper
Luxury Goods box office one hour before the Klosterneuburg, a short
Desirable Austrian goods start of the performance. way north of Vienna.
include clothes made of Loden,
a felt­like woollen fabric, Theater Classical Music
custom­made sheets, and Viennese theater enjoys a high
high­quality down pillows and reputation and the Burgtheater The principal venues for
duvets. Petit point embroidery, (see p561) is the most classical music concerts are the
which adorns handbags, prestigious venue. Classic and Musikverein (including the




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A USTRIA  573

Music Festivals Coffee Houses
restored Brahms-Saal) and
the concert halls of the Seasonal events in Vienna and Heurige
Konzerthaus. Performances are include the Vienna Festival The Viennese coffee house is
also held in many other halls and in May and June, and Wien a throwback to a more leisured
historic palaces around Vienna. Modern, a festival of post-1945 age, serving coffee in a
The New Year’s Concert is and contemporary classical bewildering range of styles and
televised live from the Grosser music, with an emphasis on allowing patrons to sit and read
Musikvereinsaal in the Musik- the avant-garde. newspapers at their leisure. The
verein every year. You can apply Inaugurated in 1920, the Heuriger is a uniquely Austrian
for tickets by writing direct to Salzburg Festival of opera, establishment. Its literal
the Wiener Philharmoniker or drama, and music claims to meaning is “this year’s,” and it
online. Applications must be be the largest of its kind in the refers both to the youngest
received on January 2 (not world. It is held annually in late available local wine and to
before, not after) for the next July and August, attracting the venues that sell it. The most
year’s concert. world’s finest conductors, famous are in villages to the
The city supports two soloists, and opera and theater north and west of Vienna, such
great orchestras, the Wiener companies. The spectacular as Heiligenstadt and Grinzing.
Philharmoniker and the Wiener venues include the A sign reading Eigenbau means
Symphoniker. There are also a Felsenreitschule, the riding that the wine is from the
number of chamber music school of the prince- owner’s vineyards.
ensembles and church music is archbishops of Salzburg. There
often of concert quality. The is always a strong emphasis Winter Sports
world-famous Vienna Boys’ on Mozart, the city’s most
Choir can be heard during mass famous son, but the festival Austria’s facilities for winter
at the Burgkapelle in the has also won acclaim for its sports are second only to
Hofburg complex (see p560) contemporary music and Switzerland’s. Ski resorts vary
every Sunday and religious innovative productions of from fashionable Kitzbühel and
holiday at 9:15am except from classic and modern drama. St. Anton to small family resorts
July to about mid-September Another smaller festival is with less demanding slopes.
(the box office is open the the Haydn Festspiele, held Package tours are available
Friday before). You can also hear at the magnificent Schloss from many countries around
them at the Konzerthaus every Esterházy in Eisenstadt (see the world. Information on
Friday at 3:30pm in May, June, p566). The festival itself is in 800 resorts can be found on
September, and October. Tickets September, but Haydn concerts the Austria Tourism website,
are available from hotel porters are given in the palace along with snow reports and
and from Reisebüro Mondial. throughout the summer. other useful information.
DIRECTORY
Food and Drink Schloss Augarten Opera and Musikverein
Obere Augartenstrasse 1, Operetta Bösendorferstrasse 12,
Altmann & Kühne Vienna. Tel 01-2112 4200. Vienna. Tel 01-505 8190.
Graben 30, Vienna. Oper Klosterneuburg
Tel 01-533 0927. Booking Tickets Kaiserhof Stift, Wiener
Meinl am Graben Bundestheater- Klosterneuburg. Philharmoniker
Graben 19, Vienna. kassen Tel 02243-444 424. Bösendorferstrasse 12,
Tel 01-532 3334. Opernring 2, Vienna. Theater an der Wien Vienna. Tel 01-505 8190.
Zum Schwarzen Tel 01-51444 7810. Linke Wienzeile 6, Music Festivals
Kameel Reisebüro Mondial Vienna.
Bognergasse 5, Vienna. Operngasse 20B, Vienna. Tel 01-588 301 010. Haydn Festspiele
Tel 01-533 8125. Tel 01-588 040. Wiener Kammeroper Schloss Esterházy,
Luxury Goods Theater Fleischmarkt 24, Vienna. A-7000 Eisenstadt.
Tel 01-588 300.
Tel 02682-618 66.
Maria Stransky Raimund Theater Wiener Volksoper
Hofburg Passage 2, Wallgasse 18, Vienna. Währinger Strasse 78, Salzburg Festival
Vienna. Tel 01-533 6098. Tel 01-58885. Vienna. Hofstallgasse 1, Postfach
Ostovics Ronacher Tel 01-514 4430. 140, A-5100 Salzburg.
Tel 0662-804 5579.
Stephansplatz 9, Vienna. Seilerstätte 9, Vienna.
Tel 01-533 1411. Tel 01-58885. Classical Music
Winter Sports
Petit Point Volkstheater Konzerthaus
Kärntner Strasse 16, Neustiftgasse 1, Vienna. Lothringerstrasse 20, Austria Tourism
Vienna. Tel 01-512 4886. Tel 01-521 110. Vienna. Tel 01-242 002. ∑ austria.info



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574  A USTRIA

Where to Stay

Price Guide
Prices are based on one night’s stay in
high season for a standard double room,
inclusive of service charges and taxes.
€ under €150
€€ €150 to €250
€€€ over €250
HALLSTATT:
Seehotel Grüner Baum €€
Pension
Marktplatz 104, 4830
Tel 06134-82 63
Four-poster beds and all modern conveniences at Hollmann Beletage, Vienna ∑ gruenerbaum.cc
This lakeside hotel dates back
CENTRAL VIENNA: to at least 1700. The rooms are
Vienna Palais Coburg €€€ charmingly furnished with both
Luxury Map E4 modern and antique pieces.
CENTRAL VIENNA: Coburgbastei 4, 1010
Altstadt Vienna € Tel 01-518 18 0 INNSBRUCK: Altpradl €
Modern Map C4 ∑ coburg.at Pension
Kirchengasse 41, 1010 Stay in a grand ceremonial room Pradlerstrasse 8, 6020
Tel 01-522 66 66 built for an emperor, and enjoy Tel 0512-345 156
∑ altstadt.at Vienna’s most decadent culinary ∑ hotel-altpradl.at
The Altstadt’s exquisite rooms indulgence and spa therapies. A centrally located hotel with
and suites combine period simple but comfortable rooms.
character and modernity. CENTRAL VIENNA: Sauna and steam bath facilities.
The Ring €€€
CENTRAL VIENNA: Domizil € Boutique Map D4 INNSBRUCK:
Pension Map E3 Kärntner Ring 8, 1010 Schlosshotel Igls €€€
Schulerstrasse 14, 1010 Tel 01-221 22 Luxury
Tel 01-513 31 99 ∑ theringhotel.com Viller Steig 2, 6080
∑ hoteldomizil.at Beyond The Ring’s sober façade Tel 0512-377 217
Comfy hotel featuring rooms with is a warm interior with creative ∑ schloss-igls.com
homely touches. Internet access, touches. Rooms and suites blend Every guest is treated like royalty
24-hour reception, and multi- old with new, while the spa offers at this discreet mountain castle
lingual staff who can help with city views and great service. with superb views of the Alps.
sightseeing recommendations.
LINZ: Austria Trend Hotel
DK Choice Rest of Austria Schillerpark €€
Modern
CENTRAL VIENNA: Schillerplatz, 4020
Hollmann Beletage €€ GRAZ: Hotel Daniel € Tel 0732-69 50
Boutique Map E3 Boutique ∑ austria-trend.at
Köllnerhofgasse 6, 1010 Europaplatz 1, 8021 This cube-like building offers
Tel 01-961 19 60 Tel 0316-71 10 80 fully equipped modern rooms,
∑ hollmann-beletage.at ∑ hoteldaniel.com a restaurant, and several bars.
This great little establishment A cool, minimalist design sets
has rooms that are the tone at the hip Hotel Daniel. SALZBURG:
contemporary in style and Rooms are compact but Schloss Mönchstein €€€
boast an eye-popping array of efficiently laid out. Historic
gadgets. Mammoth breakfasts, Mönchsberg 26, 5020
friendly staff, and a sauna are DK Choice Tel 0662-84 85 55
just a few of the many benefits ∑ monchstein.at
of this family-run B&B – it also GRAZ: Augarten €€ A 14th-century castle with its
has a library, pretty courtyard Boutique own park, offering city views
garden, and bicycle storage. Schönaugasse 53, 8010 and high standards of comfort.
Tel 0316-20 80 0
∑ augartenhotel.at ST. WOLFGANG IM
CENTRAL VIENNA: This smart design hotel beside SALZKAMMERGUT:
Hotel Am Stephansplatz €€ the Augarten park features Im Weissen Rössl €€€
Modern Map D3 modern furnishings in the Luxury
Stephansplatz 9, 1010 rooms, and a wealth of art Markt 74, 5360
Tel 01-534 05 0 from the private collection Tel 06138-23 06
∑ hotelamstephansplatz.at of the owner. The building, ∑ weissesroessl.at
A popular, environmentally designed by Günther Domenig, This famous lakeside hotel
friendly hotel with rooms and combines curvy surfaces and boasts rooms decorated in a
suites that feature contrasting lots of glass to ensure a feeling romantic style. The impressive
warm colors, natural woods, and of light and space. pool is heated and appears to
paintings by contemporary artists. float at the lake’s edge.
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TR A VELERS ’ NEEDS  575

Where to Eat and Drink

Asian chefs on Vienna’s dining Price Guide
Vienna scene. Book a table weeks in Prices are for a three course meal
advance to enjoy Kim’s signature for one, including half a bottle of
CENTRAL VIENNA: “surprise dinner.” house wine, and all extra charges.
Trzesniewski € € under €35
Austrian Map D3 CENTRAL VIENNA: Procacci €€€ €€ €35 to €65
Dorotheergasse 1, 1010 Italian Map D4 €€€ over €65
Tel 01-512 32 91 Closed Sun Göttweihergasse 2, 1010
This Viennese institution offers Tel 01-512 22 11 Closed Sun traditional schnitzels, as well
a wide selection of appetizing Located between Spiegelgasse as poultry and game dishes.
open sandwiches. Enjoy them and Seilergaße, this elegant Mozart is rumored to have
with a small beer (pfiff). Italian restaurant specializes in eaten in these very rooms.
Florentine food, with a special
CENTRAL VIENNA: emphasis on truffle dishes. Light DK Choice
Café Sacher €€ lunches are served at the bar.
Austrian Map D4 INNSBRUCK: Chez Nico €€
Philharmonikerstrasse 4, 1010 DK Choice Vegetarian
Tel 01-514 56 0 Maria-Theresien-Strasse 49, 6020
One of the city’s swankiest venues FARTHER AFIELD: Tel 0650-45 10 62 4 Closed Sun
is the birthplace of the famous Gmoa Keller € At Chez Nico, chef Nicolas Curtil
Sachertorte. This café is also a Traditional Viennese follows a molecular approach to
great place to enjoy great coffee. Heumarkt 25, 1030 vegetarian cuisine. The menu
Tel 01-712 5310 Closed Sun changes seasonally, and the
CENTRAL VIENNA: & 1st week in Aug inventive dishes feature fresh,
Lebenbauer €€ The traditional Viennese seasonal produce. Opt for the
Vegetarian Map D3 “Wirtshaus” interior is matched superb-value two-course lunch
Teinfaltstrasse 3, 1010 by a changing menu of Austrian menu, or the more expensive
Tel 01-533 55 56 Closed Sat & Sun specialties at this friendly cellar seven-course evening gourmet
Lebenbauer boasts a creative, venue. It is a popular choice menu. Book in advance.
meat-free menu. Highlights with the musical fraternity from
include a flavor-packed pumpkin the nearby concert halls.
risotto. The recipes use mainly Reservations are recommended. LINZ: Brandl €
organic produce and are cooked Café
without fat, eggs, or flour. Bismarckstrasse 6, 4020
Tel 0732-77 36 35 Closed Sat dinner,
CENTRAL VIENNA: Sun
Palmenhaus €€ Rest of Austria This long-standing Linz bakery
European Map D4 has a sit-down section where
Burggarten 1, 1010 GRAZ: Magnolia €€€ diners can munch on a range
Tel 01-533 10 33 International of crusty-bread sandwiches,
A plush venue with a menu to Schönaugasse 53, 8010 croissants, and brioches.
match, Palmenhaus also serves Tel 0316-82 38 35 Closed Sat & Sun
a good-value Carpe Diem break- Located in the Augarten hotel, LINZ: Cook €€
fast of fresh pineapple, mint, Magnolia has a reputation for Fusion
honeycracker, bread, goat-cheese creative cooking, although the Klammstrasse 1, 4020
omelette, and rolls with jams. inexpensive business lunches Tel 0732-78 13 05 Closed Sun
should not be overlooked. Wok-fried salmon and curried
CENTRAL VIENNA: herring are on offer at this
Kim Kocht €€€ INNSBRUCK: Goldener Adler € Scandinavian-Asian restaurant,
Asian Regional with a chic café-bistro interior.
Merkur Hoher Markt 12, 1010 Herzog-Friedrich-Strasse 6, 6020
Tel 01-319 02 42 Closed Sun & Mon Tel 0512-57 11 11 SALZBURG: Triangel €€
This is the eponymous restaurant Located in one of the oldest inns Traditional Austrian
by one of the most popular in Europe, this restaurant serves Wiener Philharmonikergasse 7, 5020
Tel 0662-84 22 29 Closed Sun
A classic Austrian culinary
repertoire is served here – with
added contemporary pizzazz. Try
the inexpensive daily specials,
chalked up beside the bar.
SALZBURG: Esszimmer €€€
Gourmet
Müllner Hauptstrasse 33, 5020
Tel 0662-87 08 99 Closed Sun; Mon
(except Aug & Dec)
Enjoy modern European fare in
this atmospherically lit restaurant.
Esszimmer also offers good-value
Diners watching the chef at work at Cook, Linz three-course lunch menus.

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GERM AN Y , A USTRIA , AND SWITZERLAND  577

SWITZERLAND


The stereotypical images of Switzerland – cozy wooden chalets, alpine
meadows, and chic skiing resorts – are easy to find. But there are many other
sides to this small, diverse country that are equally accessible, from picturesque
medieval towns to world-class art and fine gastronomy. Switzerland’s rural
retreats offer wonderful opportunities for relaxing and recharging.


Switzerland lies at the very heart of rock, and with no seaboard and few
Europe, landlocked between the Alps and natural resources other than water power,
the Jura mountains. It is bordered to the the country has managed to preserve a
west by France, to the north by Germany, proud and united spirit of independence.
to the east by Austria and Liechtenstein,
and to the south by Italy. History
Mountains make up almost a third of Switzerland’s geography has presented
Switzerland’s 41,285 sq km (15,949 sq both opportunities and disadvantages.
miles). The St. Gotthard Massif is the Its story has been of a gradual coming
source of many lakes and two major rivers, together, not without bloodshed, of a
the Rhine and the Rhône. Central population of diverse cultures, religions,
Switzerland has the highest concentration and languages, making what is today
of picturesque Alpine peaks, although the viewed as a haven of peace and reason.
loftiest Alps are those of the Valais in the The Jura mountains provide the earliest
southwest. The valleys of Graubünden in evidence of Switzerland’s habitation,
the east provide the setting for many which dates to over 50,000 years ago.
winter resorts. In the west, the cities lining By the start of the Christian era, Celtic
the northern shore of Lake Geneva peoples were living in western Switzerland
comprise the “Swiss Riviera,” while a series and Germanic tribes in the north and
of high passes provides overland access east. Many of these communities were
from German-speaking Switzerland to the under the control of the expanding
Ticino, the Italian-speaking part of the Roman Empire, whose influence spread
country, and to Italy. after 58 BC.
With almost a quarter of its area The Germanic tribes to the north
comprising high Alps, lakes, and barren eventually broke through Roman




















The snow-capped Jungfrau, one of the Alps’ most famous peaks
A small mountain village in the Dolomites region of the Swiss Alps



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578  GERM AN Y , A USTRIA , AND SWITZERLAND

defenses; by the 5th century AD, the era famous at this period for producing skilled
of Roman rule had ended. During the mercenaries, who were paid handsomely
so-called “Dark Ages,” the Burgundian tribe to fight battles well beyond Swiss frontiers.
controlled the west, the Alemanni the Protestantism took root in Switzerland in
center and east. In the 5th century, both the 16th century, spread by the teachings
tribes came under the control of the of Zwingli and Calvin. Swiss cities
Franks, and later the Holy Roman embraced the new doctrines,
Empire. The 13th century saw the whereas rural cantons remained
rise of powerful local families such mostly Catholic. Tensions between
as the Habsburgs and the the two communities erupted
Zähringen, who established into violence from time to
feudal rule over the area. time, and apart from a brief
In 1291, three forest cantons period at the turn of the 19th
around Lake Lucerne – Uri, century when Napoleon
Schwyz, and Unterwalden – established the Helvetic
came together to swear an Oath Huldrych Zwingli (1484–1531), Republic, these issues were
of Allegiance, thus forming an leader of the Swiss Reformation not resolved until the
independent Swiss state. Over adoption of a federal
the coming centuries, more constitution in 1848.
cantons came to join the Confederation. With stability came development –
These included lands south of the Alps railways were built, agriculture diversified,
known as the Ticino, and those to the west, resorts developed. A tradition of
where Charles of Burgundy was defeated humanitarianism began in the mid-19th
by the Swiss in 1477. Switzerland was century with the founding of the

Stuttgart
Exploring Switzerland
GERMANY
Switzerland is a small country – only 350 km (220 miles) by Strasbourg Freiburg Schaffhausen
220 km (140 miles) at its greatest extent. The Alps run 14 Stein- Munich
am-Rhein
across the southern part of the country, and in the Basel Rhein Thur 13 Bodensee
A3
northwest, the Jura mountains stretch along the 6 18 Baden Winterthur Arbon am
A1
Bodensee
French border. Mediterranean influences can be Aarau Zürich St Gallen
felt and seen in mild winters and palm-lined FRANCE 6 Balsthal Olten 8
esplanades south of the Alps. Traveling Solothurn Reuss Zürichsee Appenzell
by car is the most flexible mode of La Chaux- Biel A6 Langenthal A2 A14 Zug Walensee VADUZ
transportation, but the reliable rail de-Fonds A1 Lucerne LIECHTENSTEIN
network makes sightseeing by train Neuchâtel BERN Langnau im (Luzern) Schwyz Glarus A3 AUSTRIA Innsbruck
easy and surprisingly affordable. Boudry Lac de Emmental Stans Altdorf 17 28
Neuchâtel
10
Yverdon SWITZERLAND
Fribourg 19 Chur Klosters Scuol
Sights at a Glance Vallorbe 1 Interlaken and 11 Rhein 3 Davos
Thun
Swiss
1 Geneva A1 A12 Bulle the Jungfrau 9 A2 Disentis National Park 28
2 Lake Geneva Morges Lausanne Gruyères Grindelwald 27 Bolzano
3 Neuchâtel A1 Vevey 11 A13 St. Moritz
4 Basel Nyon Lake Geneva Montreux Leukerbad 19
5 Bern (Lac Léman) Rhône A2 3
6 Interlaken and the Jungfrau A9 Sierre
7 Zermatt Geneva (Genève) A9 Sion
8 Lucerne Lyon Chamonix Locarno Bellinzona
9 Zürich Annecy Martigny Ticino IT AL Y
0 Chur Zermatt Lugano
q Swiss National Park 0 km 25 21
w Ticino 0 miles 25
IT AL Y A2
Turin
For hotels and restaurants see p594 and p595
Milan
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SWITZERLAND  579

International Red Cross. In the 20th KEY DATES IN SWISS HISTORY
century, Switzerland remained neutral
during the two world wars, and 58 BC–AD 400 Roman occupation
concentrated on furthering its economic AD 400–1100 Germanic peoples inhabit the area
development, notably in the sectors of 12th century Holy Roman Empire extends feudal law
over much of present-day Switzerland
finance and pharmaceuticals. 1291 Oath of Allegiance marks beginning of the
Swiss Confederation
Language and Culture 1351 Zürich joins the Confederation
Switzerland is a quadrilingual nation. 1477 Charles the Bold of Burgundy defeated by Swiss
German, French, Italian, and Romansch troops at Battle of Nancy
(the language of a few valleys in the 16th century Reformation; Protestantism takes firm
canton of Graubünden) are spoken in hold in Swiss cities
different parts of the country, though 1798 Napoleon creates the Helvetic Republic
1815 Power of cantons re-established
German is the language of the majority. 1830–48 Federal constitution drawn up
For many centuries, Swiss culture had a 1864 International Red Cross set up
predominantly rural tradition, and wine 1914–18 & 1939–45 Switzerland remains neutral
festivals are still a feature of village life. during two world wars
Great pride is taken in traditional crafts and 1946 UN offices established in Geneva
regional specialties, such as the famous 1990 Swiss women granted right to vote in
Emmental cheese. Swiss chocolate is also every canton
renowned for its high quality. Switzerland 2002 Switzerland declared member of the UN
is now an outward-looking country, keen 2008 Switzerland joins EU Schengen Area, removing
to export its expertise in finance and road and rail border checks
watchmaking worldwide. 2014 Controversial referendum limiting “mass
immigration” narrowly approved
2014 Swiss voters reject minimum wage law, noting 90
Stuttgart percent of all workers earn CHF 50,000
GERMANY
Strasbourg Freiburg Schaffhausen
Stein-
am-Rhein
14
Basel Rhein Thur 13 Munich
A3 Bodensee
6 Baden A1 Arbon am
18 Winterthur Bodensee
Aarau
Zürich St Gallen
6 Balsthal 8
FRANCE Solothurn Olten Reuss Zürichsee Appenzell
Biel A2
La Chaux- Langenthal A14 Zug
de-Fonds A6 Walensee VADUZ
A1 Lucerne
Neuchâtel (Luzern) Schwyz Glarus LIECHTENSTEIN AUSTRIA
Emmental
Boudry BERN Langnau im A3 Innsbruck Sidewalk cafés surrounding the Place du
Lac de Stans
Neuchâtel 10 Altdorf 17 28 Bourg-du-Four, Geneva
Yverdon SWITZERLAND
Fribourg 19 Chur Klosters Scuol
Vallorbe 1 Thun 11 Rhein 3 Davos
A1 A12 Bulle Interlaken and A2 Disentis Swiss 28
the Jungfrau
Morges Lausanne Gruyères Grindelwald 9 National Park 27 Bolzano
A1 Vevey 11 A13 St. Moritz
Nyon Lake Geneva Montreux 19
(Lac Léman) Leukerbad A2 3
Rhône KEY
Geneva (Genève) A9 Sion Sierre Motorway
A9
Chamonix Locarno Bellinzona Major road
Lyon Railroad
Annecy Martigny Ticino IT AL Y
Zermatt International border
Lugano
21
IT AL Y A2
Turin
For keys to symbols see back flap
Milan
576-579_EW_Europe.indd 579 14/07/16 10:10 am

580  GERM AN Y , A USTRIA , AND SWITZERLAND


at alternative Geneva museums, 2 Lake Geneva
including Maison Tavel and Vaud. £ @ g n Avenue d’Ouchy
Musée Rath. 60, Lausanne (021-613 2626).
At the foot of the old town, _ Nyon Paléo Music Festival (Jul).
Geneva’s main shopping street ∑ region-du-leman.ch
– the Rue de Rive – runs parallel
to the lake shore. The quays The region skirting Lake Geneva
either side of the lake are offers a string of interesting
pleasant places to stroll, with settlements in a landscape
the Jardin Anglais and the Jet replete with rolling hills, pretty
d’Eau (one of the world’s largest stone-built villages, vine-clad
fountains) on the Left Bank, and slopes, and palm-fringed
the Quai du Mont- esplanades.
Blanc on the right. Coppet, 15 km
It is from the latter (10 miles) north of
that the ferries and Geneva, is a quaint
paddlesteamers medieval village. The
Narrow, winding street in Geneva’s historic operate pleasure 17th-century Château
old town cruises and regular de Coppet was the
services to towns home of Madame
1 Geneva along the lake. de Staël, whose
Geneva. * 198,000. k £ @ n Farther along the literary soirées
Rue du Mont-Blanc 18 (022-909 7000). Right Bank are the and opposition to
_ Fêtes de Genève (early Aug). city’s botanic Napoleon enhanced
∑ geneva-tourism.ch gardens, and if the popularity of
you take the road the château in the
Geneva is an ancient settlement bordering them you 18th century.
with origins that go back to will come to the Farther along
Roman times. The old town, international quarter the lake, Nyon is a
situated on a craggy hill up above of the city. Here, the charming lakeside
the western end of Lake Geneva, Palais des Nations – town dating from
is the most attractive part of the European head- Jet d’Eau fountain, Roman times, a
city, with narrow, cobbled lanes quarters of the UN – Geneva harbor heritage displayed
and streets, fountain-filled runs frequent guided at the excellent
squares, and an array of tours through the day Roman Museum.
galleries, shops, and cafés. (ID documents mandatory). With its fortress-like château
In the heart of the old town Opposite, the International and network of lanes, Nyon
stands the Cathédrale St-Pierre. Red Cross and Red Crescent commands a fine hilltop view
Although the building dates Museum offers a moving over the lake.
from the 12th century, it was testimony to the need for Lausanne, 60 km (38 miles)
much altered in the 16th such an organization. east of Geneva, is a bustling city
century – the plain facade and with a fine old town, a beautiful
interiors are in keeping with its E Musée d’Art et d’Histoire Gothic cathedral, and excellent
Reformist heritage. A splendid Rue Charles-Galland 2. Closed until shopping. The city is also home
14th-century town-house close 2022. ∑ ville-ge.ch/mah to the international Olympic
by, the Maison Tavel, gives a P Palais des Nations movement – at the lakeside
good insight into life in the Avenue de la Paix 14. Tel 022-917 district of Ouchy, the Musée
developing city of Geneva 4896. Open Mon–Sat. 8 obligatory. Olympique (www.museum.
through the centuries. In Rue Closed Sep–Mar: Sat. & 7 olympic.org) is a must for all
Jean-Calvin, the Barbier-Müller ∑ unog.ch sports enthusiasts. The resort of
Museum displays artifacts and
objects from traditional
societies in Africa and the
Asia-Pacific region. There is a
mesmerizing array of beautiful
carvings, jewelry, and textiles.
Geneva’s grandest museum,
the Musée d’Art et d’Histoire,
at the eastern end of the old
town, is currently undergoing
extensive refurbishment and
will remain closed until 2022.
Most of its collections of Swiss
and European art are on display Wine château and vineyards near the town of Nyon
For hotels and restaurants see p594 and p595


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SWITZERLAND  581


Montreux at the eastern end
of the lake has a palm-lined
promenade and a busy marina.
As well as belle-époque hotels
and health resorts, the town
boasts one of Switzerland’s top
attractions – the Château de
Chillon. This former bastion of
the dukes of Savoy has all the
accoutrements of a medieval
castle – dungeons, weaponry,
and huge banqueting halls.
About 25 km (15 miles) north
of Montreux, the wonderfully Pit Stop (1984), sculpture in the Museum Jean Tinguely, Basel
preserved medieval hilltop town
of Gruyères is also a major tourist pattern was adopted when pharma ceutical industries.
attraction. The walled town is the town was rebuilt after a This is a legacy of its liberal
divided by a cobbled main street devastating fire in the 18th past, when the city offered a
flanked by tempting restaurants. century. Le Corbusier and Louis home to Huguenots fleeing
You can see the famous cheese Chevrolet are famous sons, perse cution. Their traditional
being made in the traditional though there is little evidence silk-weaving skills eventually
way in Moléson-sur-Gruyères. of the former in the town’s led to the development
architecture. The Musée of synthetic dyes and
+ Château de Chillon International d’Horlogerie has pharmaceutical processes.
Avenue de Chillon 21, 1820 Veytaux. a wonderful collection devoted The old town remains the
Tel 021-966 8910. Open daily. to the watch industry, and is heart of the city and is a maze
Closed Dec 25, Jan 1. & 8 well worth a visit. of fine streets and squares,
∑ chillon.ch including Marktplatz with its
E Musée International daily fruit and vegetable market.
3 Neuchâtel d’Horlogerie The striking red-painted Rathaus
Rue des Musées 29. Tel 032-967 6861.
(city hall) stands here, on the
Neuchâtel. * 33,000. £ @ Open Tue–Sun. Closed public hols. southern bank of the Rhine.
n Hôtel des Postes (032-889 6890). & 8 ∑ mih.ch The twin sandstone towers of
_ Wine Festival (late Sep). the Gothic cathedral are major
∑ neuchateltourisme.ch landmarks. This imposing 12th-
century building stands in a
Neuchâtel, an old religious center grand square – site of the famous
and university town, lies at the autumn fair that has been an
eastern end of Lake Neuchâtel at annual event since the 15th
the base of the Jura mountains. It century. Basel has a modern side
is a little off the beaten track, but too, with a vibrant cultural scene
has an extensive and attractive and a number of interesting
old town overlooked by the museums, most notably the
partly Romanesque Collegiate Kunstmuseum, which includes
Church. Just below the church, an impressive range of 20th-
the Tour des Prisons offers a century artists such as Picasso,
stunning view of the lake and and the Beyeler Foundation,
city. The market square – Place Enameled watch (c.1665) in the Musée in Baselstrasse, a collection of
des Halles – is bounded by International d’Horlogerie around 200 paintings by
elegant 17th-century buildings, modern masters.
including the turreted Maison 4 Basel Switzerland’s most famous
des Halles, now a restaurant. artist, Jean Tinguely (1925–91),
The area around Neuchâtel is Basel. * 166,000. k £ @ has a museum devoted to
known for its wines, including n Basel Tourismus, Stadt-Casino, his outlandish mechanical
Perdrix Blanche. Barfüsserplatz (061-268 6868). sculptures – Museum Tinguely.
_ Fair (Oct–Nov). ∑ basel.com
Environs E Kunstmuseum
20 km (12 miles) northwest of Basel sits in the northernmost St. Alban-Graben 16. Tel 061-206
Neuchâtel lies La Chaux-de- corner of Switzerland, straddling 6262. Open Tue–Sun. & 8 7
Fonds, the largest of Switzerland’s the Rhine at the farthest point ∑ kunstmuseumbasel.ch
watchmaking towns. Located that the river is navigable to E Museum Tinguely
992 m (3,255 ft) above sea level, sea-going vessels. This large Paul Sacher Anlage 1. Tel 061-681
it does not have the feel of a commercial city is a world 9320. Open Tue–Sun. & 7
typical Swiss town. Its rigid grid center for the chemical and ∑ tinguely.ch




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582  GERM AN Y , A USTRIA , AND SWITZERLAND


painted stone, which depicts
the Last Judgment. The tall
spire was only added in the late
19th century. To the right of the
cathedral is a delightful small
park overlooking the Aare
flowing far below. This makes a
good picnic spot in summer.
A huge bear park is situated
on the shore of the Aare just
below the old Bärengraben, or
The tall spire of Bern Cathedral rising above the city skyline bear pits. The park’s caves, pools,
and forest give the bears a more
5 Bern of Bern is a UNESCO World natural home than the
Heritage site, famous for its 19th-century pits. The city’s
Bern. * 128,000. k £ @
n Central Railway Station (031-328 arcaded streets, which offer Historical Museum – located just
1212). _ Ziebelemaerit (Nov). comprehensive protection in south of the old town over the
∑ berninfo.com the event of bad weather. The river across Kirchenfeldbrücke –
main streets – Kramgasse, provides a great introduction to
Bern is the capital of Switzerland Spitalgasse, Marktgasse, and the city’s history. Among the
and its most attractive city – it Gerechtigkeitsgasse – are all notable exhibits are wonderful
has the best-preserved medieval lined with tempting shops, Flemish tapestries. There is also
town center in the country. It is galleries, and cafés. the Paul Klee Centre, on
located on raised land in a bend The city’s famous clock tower Monument in Fruchtland,
of the Aare River. From the city’s stands where Kramgasse which contains around 4,000
terraces, there are spectacular meets Marktgasse. The works by the renowned artist,
views over the river and clock dates from 1530, and who lived in Bern for 33 years
across to the peaks of the on the hour a series of and was influenced by
distant Alps. figures – including bears, Expressionist, Cubist, and
The city was founded a jester, and a rooster – Surrealist styles of art.
at the end of the 12th plays out its perfor mance.
century by the Duke The old town is filled with E Historical Museum
of Zähringen and magnificent fountains, Helvetiaplatz 5. Tel 031-350 7711.
allegedly named after each of which depicts Open Tue–Sun. Closed Nov 26, Dec
the first animal – a bear a famous historical or 25. & 7 8 ∑ bhm.ch
– killed in the forests legendary figure. A
which previously wander around the Environs
covered the area. The city center will reveal To the southeast of Bern is the
bear has been the the likenesses of Moses, Emmental Valley. This verdant
city’s emblem ever the Duke of Zähringen, agricultural region, with its lush
since. Most of the and the gruesome grazing, is famous for the cheese
center of Bern, with The grotesque child- eating ogre, the of the same name. A drive
its many fine stone Kindlifresser or Kindlifresser. around the region can make an
Renaissance houses Ogre Fountain The cathedral on ideal half-day tour. Take in some
and covered arcades, Münstergasse was of the delightful towns and
dates from the 16th and built in the 15th century and is villages – Burgdorf, Affoltern, or
17th centuries. a beautiful example of late Langnau im Emmental – and
Since 1848, Bern has been Gothic architecture. The building’s the rolling hills dotted with
the capital of the Confederation. most magnificent element is covered wooden bridges and
The massive Bundeshaus the main portal – distinctive gabled
(Parliament House) is the home a masterpiece of wooden farm houses
of the Swiss Parliament, and the carved and of the area.
building is open to visitors when
parliament is not in session. It
is situated at the end of the
city’s main market squares –
Bärenplatz and Bundesplatz.
These linked squares are also
the site of the annual onion
market which takes place on
the fourth Monday in November,
when the local onion harvest is
traditionally celebrated. The
attractive old town at the heart The Last Judgment, in the tympanum of Bern Cathedral’s main portal
For hotels and restaurants see p594 and p595


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SWITZERLAND  583

7 Zermatt
Valais. * 6,000. £ n Bahnhofplatz
(027-966 8100). ∑ zermatt.ch
Switzerland’s most famous
resort, Zermatt sits directly
below the Matterhorn, a
peak of 4,478 m (14,688 ft),
which has been a mountain-
climbing legend for the best
part of two centuries. In
addition to mountaineering,
Zermatt offers top-quality
skiing and hiking. Skiing is
possible all year round at this,
the highest of Swiss resorts, and
Interlaken cruise ship moored by the banks of the Thunersee there are miles of well-marked
trails accessible to all walkers.
6 Interlaken and and another to Jungfraujoch, The most scenic way to arrive
the Jungfrau at 3,454 m (11,332 ft), Europe’s in Zermatt is via the Glacier
highest train station. Open all Express from St. Moritz, but
Bern. * 5,700. £ @ n Höheweg year round, a thrilling cable car most tourists arrive by train
37 (033-826 5300). ∑ interlaken.ch ride from the Stechelberg from Täsch, 5 km (3 miles)
parking area in the Lauter- down the valley. Taxis from
Interlaken, as its name suggests, brunnen valley rises to the Täsch to car-free Zermatt cost
lies between two lakes – the Schilthorn peak and its James about the same as the train.
Thunersee and the Brienzersee Bond revolving restaurant. The Hinterdorf is the most
– in the foothills of the Alps. region is perfect skiing and historic part of town. The parish
To the south is the classic hiking territory, with walking church and cemetery contain
landscape of the Jungfrau trails to suit all ability levels. some poignant reminders of the
mountains – one of the first A few kilometers east of Brienz, dangers of the high mountains.
regions of Switzerland to be the main town on Brienzersee, The displays at Zermatlantis,
opened up to tourism in the lies the Swiss Open Air Museum an alpine museum near
middle of the 19th century. (known as the Ballenberg). the church, reflect the
Tourism is virtually the only Original buildings from all over importance of the region’s
industry in town, which caters the country have been brought mountaineering tradition.
for skiers in winter and to this living museum. A special Gornergrat is probably the
sightseers by the busload in bus runs from Brienz train best viewing point for the
summer. A funicular, built in station to the Ballenberg. Matterhorn, and can be reached
1906, takes visitors up to the by taking a cog-wheel railroad.
summit of the Heimwehfluh E Ballenberg You can carry on by cable car to
(680 m/2,230 ft), a wonderful Tel 033-952 1030. Open Apr–Oct: the Stockhorn peak for more
vantage point above Interlaken. daily. & 7 8 ∑ ballenberg.ch mountain views.
From here, you can walk along
woodland paths, visit an open-
air model railway, or take the
bob-run all the way down to
the base station in Interlaken.
There is also a restaurant and
a children’s play area.
Environs
One of the Alps’ most famous
peaks, the 4,158-m- (13,642-ft-)
Jungfrau lies 20 km (12 miles)
to the south of Interlaken. The
almost equally high Mönch and
Eiger mountains are neighbors
and the stretch between
Interlaken and the mountains is
full of pretty alpine valleys and
villages. From Wengen or
Grindelwald, you can take a
train up to Kleine Scheidegg, Cog-wheel mountain railroad, with the Matterhorn peak rising behind




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584  GERM AN Y , A USTRIA , AND SWITZERLAND


The Alps

The Alps are one of the oldest mountain ranges in the world,
formed 65 million years ago when the Eurasian and African
tectonic plates collided. They dominate Switzerland’s
landscape, covering more than half its surface area, and have
shaped its history and economy. Switzerland is home to many
well-known, distinctive peaks – such as the Matterhorn,
Jungfrau, and Eiger – which were early tourist attractions in
the 18th and 19th centuries. Trade and pilgrimage routes
have crossed the Alps since Roman times, but it is only in
the last century that this wild and beautiful landscape has
become truly accessible, with the development of long Peak of the Matterhorn and the
road and rail tunnels, mountain railroads, and cable cars. Gornergrat mountain railroad

Alpine Flora
Deciduous trees are common on the lower
slopes of the Alps, but these gradually give
way to coniferous spruce and pine.
Between the tree line and the snow
line lie lush alpine meadows
famous for their wildflowers.

The Alpine aster is one of many
beautiful, brief-flowering, alpine
plants found throughout the
higher slopes and pastures. It
blooms from July to August.
Lake Lucerne surrounded by peaks and alpine meadows
Androsace alpina, or Edelweiss is the
rock jasmine, grows in country’s most famous
mats which cling to flower, a symbol of
alpine rockfaces. The purity and everlasting
shoots produce pinky- love. Increasingly
white flowers between rare, it is now a
July and August. protected species.

Alpine Wildlife
Several national parks amid the Alps ensure Marmots are difficult to
the preservation of the unique native fauna. spot but quite easy to
hear, and live in burrows
Although some animals have disappeared, a high on the valley slopes.
few species have adapted well to the higher Found throughout the
altitudes, such as the marmot, chamois, Alps, these mammals are
ibex, mountain hare, and alpine chough. particularly abundant in
Graubünden and Ticino.

Chamois are goat-like The alpine chough, a crow-like
antelopes which can bird with a yellow bill, glossy
be seen adeptly blue-black plumage, and
scaling the highest gregarious disposition,
mountain ridges. In spends the summer
the past they were above the tree line.
hunted for their hide, They descend to the
which makes a very valleys and villages
soft leather, but in winter, where
hunting quotas are they accept food
now imposed. from tourists.





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SWITZERLAND  585



The Alps in Summer
Long before skiing became popular, foreign visitors
were coming to Switzerland’s alpine areas for quiet,
relaxing holidays full of fabulous vistas and fresh air.
In general, alpine resorts are quieter in summer
than during the ski season, but there are good
outdoor activities provided in most areas. Some
resorts, such as Verbier and Gstaad, host summer
music festivals of some note. Most cable cars and
mountain railroads operate throughout the
summer, transporting hikers and sightseers.

Hikers and mountain bikers are very well-
catered for in summer, as Switzerland has
thousands of kilometers of designated footpaths.
Trails are well-marked and maintained, with
regular refreshment stops en route.

Désalpe, a traditional Swiss festival, celebrates the return of herds
of cows from the high mountain pastures at the end of summer.
In alpine valleys and the Jura, lines of groomed and festooned
cattle are herded down the country roads, stopping off at village
cattle troughs and fountains for refreshment, on their way back
to the lowland farms.

The Alps in Winter
Switzerland has ski resorts to suit most tastes and budgets,
from the chic, five-star hotels of St. Moritz, where celebrity
spotting is almost as popular as skiing, to family-oriented
resorts with facilities and slopes for all abilities such as
Grindelwald. Some are predominantly modern – Verbier
has grown from the unvisited hamlet of 50 years ago into
the largest ski area in Switzerland. Others, such as Zermatt –
with its historic town center, alpine museum, and slow pace of
life – are more traditional.
Davos is the largest
resort in Switzerland,
attracting visitors from
all over the world. The
twin towns of Davos
Dorf and Davos Platz
offer a wide choice
of activities off piste, Edward Whymper
with an indoor sports
center and many An illustrator by profession, the
bars, nightclubs, mountaineer Edward Whymper
and restaurants. (1840–1911) was one of a long
line of British climbers who
Winter snow is what came to the Swiss Alps in the
draws most visitors to 19th century to scale hitherto
the Alps, whether for unconquered peaks. In 1865,
traditional skiing or he reached the peak of the
snowboarding. More Matterhorn at 4,478 m
bizarre sports include (14,688 ft), together with two
horseboarding (like Swiss guides. Today, despite
water-skiing with a remaining a difficult ascent,
horse) and “zorbing” more than 2,000 climbers
(tumbling down the scale the Matterhorn in a
slopes strapped to the good summer.
inside of a balloon).





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586  GERM AN Y , A USTRIA , AND SWITZERLAND


Environs
Ten minutes from the central
train station along the lake to the
east is Switzerland’s most visited
museum, the Swiss Museum of
Transport. Highly interactive and
fun for families, the museum has
both plane and helicopter flight
simulators, as well as trains,
boats, and cable cars.
About 28 km (17 miles) east of
Lucerne, Schwyz is the capital
of one of the original three
forest cantons, and has given
the country its name. The
charter detailing the 1291
Oath of Allegiance which
marks the beginning of the
Swiss Confederation is housed
in the town’s Bundesbrief-
museum. More interesting is
Breathtaking Lake Lucerne and its surrounding mountain peaks the Ital Reding Hofstatt, a fine
17th-century mansion on the
8 Lucerne built in 1333, and formed part northwest side of town, built
of the city’s original boundary. on the proceeds of one of
Lucerne. * 79,000. £ @
n Zentralstrasse 5 (041-227 1717). Much of the bridge, including Switzerland’s first exports –
_ Lucerne Festival Sommer (mid- its decorative paintings, had mercenaries. The fighting
Aug–mid-Sep). ∑ luzern.com to be renovated following a skills of the men of Schwyz
destructive fire in 1993. Also were highly prized by warring
The city of Lucerne makes a nearby is the Rosengart European rulers until well into
good base for touring most Collection, with over 200 works the 18th century.
of central Switzerland. The by various classic Modernist Pilatus and Rigi mountains
surrounding countryside is artists such as Klee, Picasso, tower over the area and both
possibly the most stereotypically and Cézanne. are easily accessible. Mount Rigi
Swiss – crystal-clear lakes ringed The Rosengart now houses has the distinction of being the
with snow-capped mountains, the collection of the former first mountain in Europe to have
hemmed with lush pastures in Picasso Museum. The works a rail line constructed to the
summer, and criss-crossed with include photographs of Picasso, summit. This starts at Vitznau on
cog-wheel railroads. This is also taken during the last 20 years of the lake shore. Mount Pilatus to
the heartland of the Swiss his life by British photographer the south is higher and gives
Confederation – the three David Douglas Duncan – unrivaled views of the Alps. Its
forest cantons of Uri, Schwyz, images which further illuminate peak can be reached either by
and Unterwalden, which swore the artist’s character. cable car from Kriens or cog-
the original Oath of Allegiance wheel railroad from Alpnachstad.
in 1291 (see p578), border the E Rosengart Collection
shores of Lake Lucerne. Today, Pilatusstrasse 10. Tel 041-220 1660. E Swiss Museum of Transport
the region remains one of Open daily. Closed Feb 27, Mar 3 & 4. Lidostrasse 5. Tel 041-370 4444.
the most conservative parts & 8 Sun am. ∑ rosengart.ch Open daily. & ∑ verkehrshaus.ch
of Switzerland.
The town’s historic center
stands on the north bank of the
Reuss river, which flows out of
Lake Lucerne at its westernmost
corner. Stretches of the ancient
city wall and its watchtowers can
be clearly seen bounding a ridge
that marks the northern edge
of the old town. The cobbled
streets and shady squares are
bustling both day and night.
The Kapellbrücke is the city’s
most famous symbol. Spanning
the river at the lake end, this
covered wooden bridge was The 17th-century mansion of Ital Reding Hofstatt in Schwyz
For hotels and restaurants see p594 and p595


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SWITZERLAND  587


9 Zürich
Zürich. * 381,000. k 10 km
(6 miles) N. £ @ n Hauptbahnhof
(044-215 4000). ∑ zuerich.com
The dominant position of Zürich
in the nation’s economy has long
been felt – in medieval times the
guilds ruled the city and, boosted
by the Reformation, Zürich
and its inhabitants developed
a talent for hard work and
accumu lating wealth. The stock
exchange, which is one of the
world’s largest, opened in 1877,
and today Swiss bankers control
the purse strings of many
interna tional companies Grossmünster and Fraumünster in Zürich, separated by the Limmat river
and organizations.
Despite this tradition, the city build a customs post and thus Environs
also knows how to enjoy itself, found the city. Fraumünster and Winterthur, 25 km (15 miles)
and the medieval town center, St. Peter’s churches are nearby; northwest of Zürich, is an
which stretches either side of the the latter, with its Romanesque interesting and little visited
Limmat river, is a hive of cafés, cloisters and stained-glass Swiss town. Its history as an
bars, and hip boutiques. On the windows created by Marc industrial center in the 19th
east bank, the warren of streets Chagall, is well worth a visit. century has left a legacy of old
and alleys lies close to the uni- Augustinergasse, which leads factory and mill architecture.
versity, adding to the café culture down from St. Peter’s, is a It also boasts excellent
of this district. Also on the east delightful street with traces of museums; the best of these
bank, the extremely austere medieval storefronts. It is a are the eclectic Oskar Reinhart
Grossmünster domin ates the world away from Zürich’s main Collection am Römerholz and
city. This was the church from shopping street, which it meets; the Fotomuseum.
which Ulrich Zwingli launched Bahnhofstrasse is one of the The nucleus of medieval
the Reformation on the recep- world’s most famous shopping Stein-am-Rhein, 40 km
tive burghers of Zürich in 1520. areas – a wide, tree-lined (25 miles) northeast of Zürich,
Along Limmat Quai, you can see avenue with trams running is unchanged since the 16th
the town hall (rathaus) built out along its length. There are century. Rathausplatz and
on supports over the river, oppo- plenty of high-priced emporia, Understadt, at its heart, are lined
site one of Zürich’s guildhalls. especially towards the southern with buildings covered
On the other side of the river, lake end, but interesting and in colorful frescoes, with oriel
there are a number of interesting reasonably priced shops and windows and window boxes.
sights. Lindenhof, a small hill, department stores can be
overlooks the city and was the found here or in the streets
site chosen by the Romans to nearby. At No. 70, Orell Füssli is
Switzerland’s largest English-
language book shop, and
nearby on Löwenplatz, you
will find coffee and chocolate
delights at the celebrated
Confiserie Sprüngli.
Just behind the main train
station at the top of
Bahnhofstrasse, housed in a
suitably Schloss-like building,
the Swiss National Museum
contains a comprehensive
collection of art and artifacts
detailing the history and
cultural diversity of the country.
E Swiss National Museum
Museumstrasse 2. Tel 044-218 6511.
Lively flea market at a lakeside park in Open Tue–Sun. & 7 Oriel window and frescoed facade of the
Zürich’s old town ∑ nationalmuseum.ch Gasthaus zur Sonne, Stein-am-Rhein




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588  GERM AN Y , A USTRIA , AND SWITZERLAND

0 Chur with charming chalets. Davos,
Graubünden. * 35,000. £ on the other hand, is a big,
n Bahnhofplat 3 (081-252 1818). brash town with plenty of
∑ churtourismus.ch diversions away from the
slopes. It has grown from a
Chur, the capital of Switzerland’s 19th-century mountain health
largest canton Graubünden, is a resort to a major sporting
quiet, ancient town with origins center, renowned for skiing,
that go back 2,000 years. It is snowboarding, paragliding, and
located on the upper reaches of tobogganing in the winter, and
the Rhine, on an ancient route hiking, running, and cycling in
between northern Europe and the summer.
Italy. It has long been a religious
center – the bishop of Chur q Swiss National
controls dioceses as far away as Park
Zürich – as well as a commercial
center, and is famous throughout Graubünden. £ Zernez, Scuol,
the country for the Passugger S-Chanf. n National Park House,
mineral water which is bottled Elaborate 15th-century gilded altarpiece in Zernez (081-851 4141). Open Jun–
just outside the town. Chur Cathedral Oct: daily; limited opening in winter.
The pedestrianized historic 8 ∑ nationalpark.ch
town center is a maze of the public) and at the bottom of
cobbled streets and small the small flight of steps leading Switzerland has many small
squares, including Arcas up to the cathedral square is nature reserves but only one
Square with its sunny, café- the Rätisches Museum, which national park. By international
filled corners in summer. At focuses on the history and culture standards, it is small, covering
the southern tip of the old town, of the canton of Graubünden. only 170 sq km (66 sq miles),
the late-Romanesque cathedral, but it is an area where
set in a square, overlooks the E Rätisches Museum conservation measures have
rest of town. The highlight of Hofstrasse 1. Tel 081-257 4840. been strictly enforced since
the cathedral is its intricately Open Tue–Sun. & ∑ rm.gr.ch 1914, and people always
carved and gilded 15th-century take second place to the
altarpiece, depicting Christ Environs natural environment.
stumbling under the weight To the east of Chur, there are The Ofenpass road, linking
of the cross and scenes from a number of world-class ski Switzerland with Austria, cuts
the life of St. Catherine. resorts. The two best-known, through the center of the park
Unfortunately, lighting levels are with very different characters, and affords good views of one
so low inside the building that are Klosters and Davos. The of the park’s valleys. Otherwise,
its full glory is hard to discern. former, famous for its the best way to see the park is
Next to the cathedral stands the associations with British royalty, to take some of the 80 km
Bishop’s Palace (not open to is a small traditional resort filled (50 miles) of marked trails –
walkers are not allowed to
deviate off the paths.
The landscape is one of
wooded lower slopes and
jagged scree-covered ridges,
including the park’s highest
peak at 3,174 m (10,414 ft) –
Piz Pisoc. Among the abundant
wildlife, you may see are
chamois, ibex, marmots, and the
glorious bearded vultures,
which are very rare in Europe
and were reintroduced into
the park in 1991. From June
to August, with the retreat of
the snows at higher altitudes,
a carpet of beautiful alpine
flowers appears.
The park has an interesting
bear exhibition in the
Schmelzra Museum, the
former headquarters of a lead
The lively winter-sports resort of Davos, in the mountains east of Chur and silver mining company.
For hotels and restaurants see p594 and p595


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SWITZERLAND  589


Festival. The festival aims to
keep alive experimentation,
discovery, eclecticism, and
passion for auteur cinema.
Moviegoers of all ages and
nationalities gather in the square
to watch a movie on one of the
world’s biggest open-air screens.
Winding lanes filled with
restaurants and boutiques
radiate off the piazza. Above
the town, easily accessible by a
funicular railroad, the sanctuary
of Madonna del Sasso is a
major tourist and pilgrimage
site. There has been a church
here since 1480, when a vision
of the Virgin Mary appeared to
a local monk. The Baroque
church is filled with marvelous
frescoes and commands a
fantastic view over the lake.
Probably the most charming
of the three main centers of the
region is Lugano, with its palm-
lined lakeside location and
attractive historic center of
elegant piazzas. The arcaded
streets are full of interesting old
shops selling local produce.
Away from the main centers,
Hilltop sanctuary of Madonna del Sasso, Ticino, with its lakeside views there are plenty of quaint
w Ticino three castles of Castelgrande, villages along the Maggiore and
Lugano lakes, such as Ascona
k Agno. £ Bellinzona, Locarno, in the town, Montebello, in the and Gandria. These are now
Lugano. n Via Lugano 12, Bellinzona middle, and Sasso Corbaro, filled with waterside restaurants
(091-825 7056). _ Locarno on top of the hill, feature on and arts and crafts shops. The
International Film Festival (early Aug). UNESCO’s list of protected valleys to the north offer great
∑ ticino.ch monuments. Castelgrande, with hiking and beautiful, peaceful
its imposing battlements, was scenery. Val Verzasca, north of
The Ticino, Switzerland’s most the stronghold of the Visconti Locarno, is one such valley, with
southerly canton, feels much family in medieval times. the photogenic stone hamlet of
more Italian than Swiss, with Bellinzona is also appealing on Corippo clinging to the steep
its mild climate and Italian Saturdays, when the streets of sides, and the pretty villages of
cuisine and language. It lies its old town are filled with Brione and Sonogno towards
south of the Alps, bordering tempting market stalls. the head of the valley.
the Italian lakes (see p411), and Locarno is located at the
is traversed by routes up the northern end of Lake Maggiore. + Castelgrande
Alpine passes of St. Gotthard and The suitably named Piazza Monte San Michele, Bellinzona.
San Bernadino. The three main Grande is the heart of town, Tel 091-825 8145. Open daily. &
towns of Bellinzona, Locarno, which, for two weeks in August, R Madonna del Sasso
and Lugano all make attractive becomes a giant open-air cinema Via Santuario 2, Orselina. Tel 091-743
bases for exploring the area, during the International Film 6265. Open daily.
with plenty of attractions, cafés
and restaurants. Beyond, the
valleys of the Ticino offer great
sightseeing opportunities.
Bellinzona is the capital of
the canton. Lying on the main
north–south route between the
Alps and Italy, it provides the first
hint of Italian life with elegant
piazzas, hilltop fortresses, and
fine Renaissance churches. The Crowd gathered for Locarno’s annual International Film Festival




588-589_EW_Europe.indd 589 14/07/16 10:19 am

590  GERM AN Y , A USTRIA , AND SWITZERLAND

Practical & Travel Information an avalanche bulletin hotline.
If skiing or hiking at altitude,
Thanks to the famous Swiss efficiency, traveling around remember that dehydration or
Switzerland is generally a pleasant and hassle-free experience. sunburn can cause problems.
The country prides itself on its excellent transportation
systems, with an extensive national rail network and frequent Banking and Currency
tram and bus services in the big cities. There are abundant The unit of currency in
tourist information offices and banking and communication Switzerland is the Swiss franc
facilities are of a high standard. Switzerland has four national (CHF). Banking hours are
languages – German, French, Italian, and Romansh – but the generally 8:30am–4:30pm
use of English is widespread, especially in tourist destinations. Monday to Friday, with some
branches in tourist resorts also
opening on Saturdays. Outside
the big cities, some banks may
Tourist Information Visa Requirements
close for lunch between noon
Up-to-date information on many Visitors to Switzerland must have and 2pm. Money can be changed
of Switzerland’s towns and cities a valid passport to enter the at banks or at bureaux de
can be obtained from brochures country. A visa is not required for change. The latter are found in
and Internet sites. Most large visitors from the European Union, hundreds of locations, including
cities have at least one centrally USA, Canada, Australia, and New at major train stations. Swiss
located tourist information office Zealand for stays of up to 90 days. francs and euros can also be
Verkehrsverein, Tourismus, Border controls at road and rail withdrawn from cash machines.
or Office du Tourisme, offering frontiers have been abolished Credit cards are widely accepted.
a wide range of information within the Schengen Area,
and facilities. Even the smallest which covers Switzerland and Communications
towns and resorts have tourist 25 other European countries.
offices, but the opening hours Switzerland’s bright yellow mail
of those in ski resorts may boxes are easy to spot, though
be limited in summer. Safety and Emergencies post offices are not as prevalent
Embassies are located in Bern, Switzerland is one of the world’s as they used to be. They usually
but many countries also have safest countries but you should open from 7:30am to noon and
a consulate or diplomatic still take all the usual from 1:30 to 6:30pm Monday to
mission in Geneva. precautions. Since Switzerland Friday, and from 8 to 11am on
has no public health system, Saturday, with some regional
travel and health insurance are variation. Public telephones are
Opening Hours essential, especially considering less common now, and often do
The 24-hour society has yet the medical costs associated not take coins. Phone cards,
to reach Switzerland, and while with skiing accidents. Hospitals called taxcards, are sold at kiosks
large stores in cities may have have 24-hour emergency cover and post offices, and some offer
late-night opening (usually and in cities and towns there is low-cost international rates. Calls
on a Thursday), most shops, always a pharmacy open. All to 900-prefix numbers incur
museums, and offices close at pharmacies should post details higher charges. Free Internet
5 or 6pm. Many museums are of a 24-hour roster in their access at airports and businesses
closed on Mondays and village window. Emergency services, is increasingly widespread.
restaurants often close one or including helicopter rescue, are The principal newspapers
two days a week. very efficient, and there is also with nationwide circulation
are the Neue Zürcher Zeitung
The Climate of from Zürich and Le Temps from
Geneva. Most British news-
Switzerland BERN papers are available in major
Generally summers are sunny °C/ºF centers from lunchtime.
with temperatures frequently
reaching 25° C (77° F), though 23/73 Flying to Switzerland
thunderstorms can be a feature 12/54 13/55 13/55
of summer evenings. Winters 6/43 2/36 Switzerland has international
are cold with plenty of snow, 3/37 -2/38 airports at Zürich, Geneva,
but many places get a lot of 6 8 4 2 Basel, Bern, Lugano, and Sion.
winter sunshine, especially the hrs hrs hrs hrs Among the major airlines that
ski resorts of the Valais. South 70 85 65 75 fly to Switzerland are Swiss
of the Alps, in the Ticino, the mm mm mm mm International Airlines (Swiss),
climate is milder and much more month Apr Jul Oct Jan Qantas, American Airlines, and
Mediterranean in character. British Airways. Low-cost airline
easyJet (see p25) flies from




590-591_EW_Europe.indd 590 14/07/16 10:19 am

SWITZERLAND  591


London Gatwick, London Luton, popular is the Swiss Travel Pass, of congestion. Driving around
and other European cities to which allows unlimited travel major cities, however, can be
Zürich, Geneva, and Basel. on trains, lake ferries, and many more difficult. Road signs are
Many business travelers fly to mountain railways. Switzerland generally clear, with main roads
Switzerland on a weekly basis, has a number of spectacular in blue and freeways in green.
so Monday and Friday flights train routes. The best-known are Historic sights are usually
can be hard to obtain, especially those that pass through the signposted in brown. Speed
during the skiing season. Alps, such as the Glacier Express limits are strictly enforced –
between St. Moritz and Zermatt. 120 km/h (75 mph) on freeways,
These services are included in 80 km/h (50 mph) on main roads,
Traveling by Train the Swiss Travel Pass and are and 50 km/h (30 mph) in built-
Switzerland is at the heart of reasonably priced. up areas. Many mountain passes
Europe and rail links to major are closed from November to
European cities are fast and Traveling by Car June. A sign at the foot of the
efficient. The journey time from pass will indicate whether the
Zürich to Paris is six hours; from The most direct route by car road is open or closed.
Geneva to Paris it is three and from Great Britain to Switzerland
a half hours. is via the Channel Tunnel and Getting Around Cities
Switzerland’s rail network is French motorways to western
operated by the state-owned Switzerland. If you want to make and Towns
Swiss Federal Railways and use of the excellent motorway Buses and trams are found
private companies. It reaches network, you will need to buy a in the major cities and they
all major cities and towns and motorway sticker (vignette), provide frequent and reliable
some of the smallest villages available at border crossings, services. Tickets can be
in the mountains. There is an tourist offices, and gas stations. purchased from machines
integrated ticketing and fare Most of the international car at bus and tram stops. Taxis
system. When traveling to a rental firms have offices at are generally very expensive.
major city, ask for a ticket that airports and in the major towns. Some cities such as Bern offer
covers your destination’s Many allow you to leave the bicycle rental facilities, as do
transportation network too – car at a destination in France, 80 of the major train stations.
this usually costs only a small Germany, or Italy. Many small villages that are
amount more. The Swiss Travel As in the rest of continental not served by trains are on a
System (www.swisstravelsystem. Europe, the Swiss drive on the “post bus” route, which usually
com) offers a range of discount right. Since most freight is moved originates at the train station of
offers, which vary depending on by rail in Switzerland, the majority the nearest main town. Buses
how long you want to stay and of country routes, main roads, are timed to coincide with the
where you want to go. Most and motorways are generally free arrival and departure of trains.
DIRECTORY
Tourist Embassies and Emergency Ireland
Information Consulates Numbers Tel 01-890 200 515.
Australia Ambulance New Zealand
UK
Chemin des Fins 2, Tel 144. Tel 0800-945 220.
Switzerland Tourism, Case Postale 172,
30 Bedford Street, Geneva 1211. Avalanche Bulletin Switzerland
Tel 187.
London WC2E 9ED. Tel 012-799 9100. Tel 0848-700 700.
Fire
Tel 00800-100 200 29. Canada Tel 118. UK
Kirchenfeldstrasse 88, Tel 0845-601 0956.
US & Canada 3005 Bern. Helicopter Rescue
Swiss Center, Tel 031-357 3200. Tel 1414 / 1415. US & Canada
608 Fifth Ave, New York, Ireland Police Tel 1-877 359 7947.
NY 10020. Kirchenfeldstrasse 68, Tel 117. ∑ swiss.com
Tel 00800-794 7795. 3005 Bern. Weather Forecast Traveling by Train
Tel 031-352 1442.
Switzerland & all Tel 162. Swiss Federal
other countries UK Swiss
Thunstrasse 50, 3000 Railways
P.O. Box 695, Bern. Tel 031-359 7700. International Hochschulstrasse 6,
8027 Zürich. Airlines 3000 Bern.
US
Tel 00800-100 200 29. Sulgeneckstrasse 19, 3007 Australia Tel 0900-300 300.
∑ myswitzerland.com Bern. Tel 031-357 7011. Tel 130-072 4666. ∑ sbb.ch



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592  GERM AN Y , A USTRIA , AND SWITZERLAND

Shopping & Entertainment and Dôle (red), are among
the best. Among more trans-
There are plenty of high-quality Swiss-made products to portable food items are dried
take away from your trip, including, of course, watches and meats from the German parts
chocolate. Porcelain, lace, wine, and cheese are also popular of Switzerland, such as
purchases. Apart from major events, such as the Montreux Bündnerfleisch, alpine cheeses
such as Gruyère, and spicy
Jazz Festival, there is entertainment on a smaller scale Leckerli biscuits from Lucerne or
throughout the country. Classical and jazz concerts abound Basel. Even packets of ready-
in the large cities, which also have cinemas, opera halls, and made rösti mixture from super-
dance venues. Most regions hold a number of seasonal local markets can make a fun gift.
events, from wine festivals to antiques and bric-a-brac fairs.
Switzerland’s greatest attractions, however, are its landscape Entertainment Listings
and outdoor sports. The mountains welcome skiers in winter and Tickets
and climbers, hikers, and cyclists in summer, with all levels A great variety of small
of ability catered for. town- and village-based
concerts, festivals, and events
takes place in Switzerland
Where to Shop
jewelry is available, particularly throughout the year. Local
In the large cities, the old town at the top end of the market. tourist offices can supply
areas usually have the most Watches are one of details of what’s happening
rewarding shopping – often Switzerland’s most important during your visit, while the Swiss
you’ll find narrow streets exports, so the quality of Swiss Tourist Board offices abroad can
crammed with interesting, if watchmaking is very high. provide comprehensive listings
often expensive, specialist Other places where you of all major sporting and
stores and galleries. Bern’s old might find suitable gifts include cultural events taking
town, with its arcaded streets, any branch of Schweizer place in Switzerland
offers varied and sheltered Heimatwerk, which is a national over the coming year.
shopping whatever the chain of Swiss handicraft stores. Most major cities have a
weather. The major department They have outlets in many large variety of venues dedicated to
stores, such as Globus, offer a towns and cities, as well as at the arts, whether it be classical
fairly standard international the airports if you leave your music, theater, cabaret, or jazz.
shopping experience. present-buying late. Information about events can
Competitively priced nationwide Major museums, cheese be found on the websites of the
supermarket chains, including showrooms, and similar locations local tourist offices (for example,
Migros, Coop, and Denner, offer will often have a small store. In www.zuerich.com/events), on
an interesting array of Swiss the major tourist destinations, www.my switzerland.com or via
foodstuffs and wine. such as Gruyères, there is no the ticket office Ticketcorner.
shortage of shops selling cheap
tourist souvenirs, but you will
What to Buy Entertainment Venues
also find knowledgeable
After you have stocked up with retailers offering high-quality Many venues in Switzerland
Swiss chocolate, other items genuine Swiss-made items. offer more than one type of
you might consider taking away entertainment. The Reitschule
with you as souvenirs and gifts Markets in Bern is used for live music,
are linen and lace. Switzerland theater, film, and dance, while
has a long tradition of textile- Outdoor produce and craft the Théâtre de l’Usine in
working in the northeast of the markets are common in Geneva hosts concerts, theater,
country and the quality is Switzerland. Most towns and film, and cabaret.
generally very good. cities have a market on one or The Zürich Tonhalle Orchestra
Swiss army knives are two mornings a week, and is based at the Opernhaus, a
popular and incredibly useful; almost always on a Saturday popular venue for opera and
keep an eye out for Victorinox, morning. These are great places ballet. Zürich has a thriving
the only genuine manufacturer. to try out local wines and club scene. Rote Fabrik by the
Swiss porcelain and pottery can cheeses, as well as simply to lakeshore is inexpensive and
also be a good buy. Many of the savor the lively atmosphere. plays alternative music. The
designs favor strong colors and Widder Bar has live jazz
rural motifs. performances.
Basketry and carved wooden Food and Drink Cinemas in Switzerland often
items (such as toys) make ideal Very little Swiss wine is show films in their original
gifts, and these can sometimes exported, so it makes an language, with subtitles in
be found on market stalls. A unusual gift. Some of the Valais French, German, Italian, or
wide range of watches and wines, such as Fendant (white) English. Zürich has more than




592-593_EW_Europe.indd 592 14/07/16 10:19 am

SWITZERLAND  593

Summer Sports
40 cinemas, almost all of which include the huge autumn fair
have regular showings of in Basel, harvest festivals in the In the summer, mountaineering
English-language films. country’s wine-growing regions, and hiking take over from skiing
and the Combat de Reines, as the most popular draw,
a form of cow fighting popular though skiing all year round is
Festivals and in some areas of the Valais. In an option on the glaciers of
Public Holidays spring, the animals are released Saas Fee and Zermatt. There
Across Switzerland, public from their often cramped winter are 60,000 km (37,200 miles)
holidays and religious events quarters. The cows butt heads in of marked hiking trails
are celebrated in different ways. a natural fight for dominance, to all over the country, including
Lent and Easter are marked by see who is “Queen of the Herd.” some long-distance ancient
masked parades, lantern Injuries are rare. trade and pilgrimage routes,
processions, music concerts, such as the Grand St-Bernard
and tree- and fountain-dressing Winter Sports trail. Yellow markers indicate
in many parts of the country. standard hiking trails. Higher,
Swiss National Day (August 1) Skiing and snowboarding are rougher trails have red and
commemorates the swearing just a couple of the many white markers and the very
of the Oath of Allegiance activities that Switzerland has high-altitude trails are marked in
between the original forest to offer. Despite the country’s blue. These should only be
cantons. Bonfires are lit and reputation for high costs, it is attempted with an experienced
huge firework displays put on possible to ski inexpensively. guide. Mountain biking is also
all over the country. Even the There is a wide range of catered for, with trails clearly
smallest village has a party options, from small, traditional indicated. Maps and infor-
with wine, food, and music. villages to large modern resorts mation are available from the
Switzerland has many other packed with lots of additional Swiss Alpine Club or the Swiss
annual festivals and themed facilities such as swimming Hiking Federation.
events. Geneva’s famous pools and ice-skating rinks.
International Motor Show is Advice on the range and Other Outdoor Activites
held every year in the spring. suitability of different resorts
The Montreux International can be sought from Switzerland Sailing and swimming are
Jazz Festival takes place in Tourism (see p590) or the Ski possible during summer at
July, as does the Paléo Music Club of Great Britain, which the country’s clean lakes. River
Festival, a week-long open-air provides information, advice, rafting is also a popular activity,
concert of world music at the and holiday and tuition especially along the Rhine. If
town of Nyon on Lake Geneva. packages. Cross-country skiing slightly gentler sports – such as
August brings the Locarno is very popular – some of the hot-air ballooning or horseback
International Film Festival and best places to try this are the riding – are more your thing,
Lucerne’s International Music villages of the Jura and the tourist offices will be able to
Festival. Other annual festivals Lower Engadine Valley. provide suggestions.
DIRECTORY
Handcrafts Entertainment Théâtre de l’Usine Paléo Music Festival
Venues 11 Rue de la ∑ paleo.ch
Schweizer
Heimatwerk Opernhaus Coulouvrenière, Geneva. Outdoor
∑ heimatwerk.ch Falkenstrasse 1, Zürich. Tel 022-328 0818. Activities
Schneidergasse 2, Basel. Tel 044-268 6400. ∑ theatredelusine.ch
Tel 061-261 9178. Widder Bar Ski Club of
Airport, Geneva. Fax 044-268 6401. Widdergasse 6, Zürich. Great Britain
Tel 022-788 3300. ∑ opernhaus.ch Tel 044-224 2411. 57–63 Church Road,
Bahnhofstrasse 2, Zürich. Reitschule ∑ widderhotel.ch London SW19.
Tel 044-221 0837. Tel 020-8410 2000.
Neubrückstrasse 8, Bern. Festivals
Uraniastrasse 1, Zürich. ∑ skiclub.co.uk
Tel 031-306 6969.
Tel 044-222 1955. Locarno Interna tional
∑ reitschule.ch Film Festival Swiss Alpine Club &
Entertainment ∑ pardo.ch Swiss Hiking
Tickets Rote Fabrik Federation
Seestrasse 395, Zürich. Montreux
Ticketcorner International Jazz Monbijoustrasse 61, Bern.
Tel 0900-800 800. Tel 044-485 5858. Festival Tel 031-370 1818.
∑ ticketcorner.com ∑ rotefabrik.ch ∑ montreuxjazz.com ∑ sac-cas.ch




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594  SWITZERLAND

Where to Stay

GRINDELWALD: Price Guide
Lake Geneva Mountain Hostel [ Prices are based on one night’s stay in
Budget high season for a standard double room,
CHAMPEX LAC: Belvédère [ Grundstrasse 58, 3818 inclusive of service charges and taxes.
Romantic Tel 033-854 38 38 [ under 200 CHF
Route du Signal 18, 1938 ∑ mountainhostel.ch [[ 200 to 500 CHF
Tel 027-783 1114 Clean double rooms and dorms [[[ over 500 CHF
∑ le-belvedere.ch amid spectacular scenery. Rooms
There are just nine rooms here, share a bathroom on each floor. ZÜRICH: Lady’s First [[
each with antique wooden furnit- Boutique
ure, and lake or mountain views. Mainaustrasse 24, 8008
DK Choice Tel 044-380 80 10
GENEVA: City Hostel Geneva [ INTERLAKEN: ∑ ladysfirst.ch
Budget Victoria-Jungfrau [[[ This 19th-century former women-
Rue Ferrier 2, 1202 Luxury only hotel with elegant period
Tel 022-901 1500 Höheweg 41, 3800 furnishings now welcomes men.
∑ cityhostel.ch Tel 033-828 28 28
Clean, inexpensive, and centrally- ∑ victoria-jungfrau.ch ZÜRICH: Widder [[[
located dorms and private rooms. This is one of Europe’s Luxury
most majestic grand old Rennweg 7, 8001
DK Choice hotels. The public rooms are Tel 044-224 25 26
opulent, while bedrooms are
∑ widderhotel.ch
GENEVA: Hôtel generously sized and elegantly Individually furnished rooms at
Beau-Rivage [[[ appointed. Convenient for this hotel famous for its service.
Luxury lake excursions, the Victoria-
Quai du Mont-Blanc 13, 1201 Jungfrau also has an extensive,
Tel 022-716 66 66 state-of-the-art spa, and fitness
∑ beau-rivage.ch and beauty facilities. Graubunden and
Geneva’s oldest hotel is poised Ticino
on the edge of the lake, with
views of the Jet d’Eau. It is an ZERMATT: Riffelalp [[[ DAVOS: Schatzalp [[
architectural gem, with crystal Luxury Historic
chandeliers, a four-story interior Riffelalp, 3920 Schatzalp, 7270
atrium, marble walls, and Tel 027-966 05 50 Tel 081-415 51 51
Grecian columns. In addition to ∑ riffelalp.com ∑ schatzalp.ch
exceptional concierge service This luxurious 19th-century Stay in grand old style at this
and opulent rooms, there are hotel is perched high on a hill. gracious hotel with views.
also four apartments. Tranquillity is guaranteed, as
it is accessible only by train. KLOSTERS: Wynegg [
Family
LAUSANNE: Hotel Bellerive [ Landstrasse 205, 7250
Budget Tel 081-410 13 40
Avenue de Cour 99, 1007 Zürich and Lucerne ∑ wynegg.ch
Tel 021-614 90 00 Skiers and cyclists are welcomed
∑ hotelbellerive.ch LUCERNE: Grand at this cozy, simply furnished spot.
Great-value central hotel with Hotel National [[
impeccable, modern rooms Luxury LOCARNO: Belvedere [[
and splendid lake views. Haldenstrasse 4, 6006 Luxury
Tel 041-419 09 09 Via ai Monti della Trinità 44, 6600
∑ grandhotel-national.com Tel 091-751 03 63
Splendid 19th-century hotel ∑ belvedere-locarno.com
Western Switzerland with lake and city views from Delightful hotel in a former 16th-
its lavishly furnished rooms. century palazzo. Superb spa.
BASEL: Hotel D [[
Boutique
Blumenrain 19, 4051
Tel 061-272 20 20
∑ hoteld.ch
Classy, modern rooms with
sweeping views of the Old Town.
Organic breakfasts. Great value.
BERN: Waldhorn [[
Family
Waldhöheweg 2, 3013
Tel 031-332 23 43
∑ waldhorn.ch
A comfortable option with great
service and spotless rooms, just a
few minutes from the city center. Streamlined elegance in a large room at the Victoria-Jungfrau, Interlaken
594-595_EW_Europe.indd 594 14/07/16 3:22 pm

TR A VELERS ’ NEEDS  595

Where to Eat and Drink

Price Guide
Western Switzerland Prices are for a three-course meal
for one, including a half-bottle of
BASEL: Cheval Blanc [[[ house wine, tax and service.
Mediterranean [ up to 40 CHF
Grand Hotel Les Trois Rois, [[ 40 to 100 CHF
Blumenrain 8, 4001 [[[ over 100 CHF
Tel 061-260 50 07 Closed Sun & Mon
Regal restaurant with two Michelin wooden ceiling. The menu
stars, run by award-winning chef features traditional Swiss
Peter Knogl. Lovely views of the dishes and game.
Rhine from the summer terrace.
ZÜRICH: Kronenhalle [[[
DK Choice German/French
Rämistrasse 4, 8001
BERN: Kornhauskeller [[ Tel 044-262 99 00
Mediterranean/Swiss A Zürich institution, Kronenhalle
Kornhausplatz 18, 3000 is unmissable – for both its
Tel 031-327 72 72 interiors and its cooking. Its walls
A treat for the eyes as much as feature original artworks by
for the palate, the cellar dining Picasso, Matisse, and Braque. It
The splendid frescoed vaulted ceiling at the room of the Kornhauskeller is popular with both locals and
Kornhauskeller, Bern features dramatic vaulted arches visitors for its generous portions.
painted with frescoes. It was
once used as a grain storage
Lake Geneva facility, among other functions.
Restored to its glory, the cellar is Graubunden and
GENEVA: Café de Paris [[ now very popular with visitors. Ticino
French
Rue de Mont-Blanc 26, 1201 BELLINZONA: Castelgrande [[
Tel 022-732 84 50 INTERLAKEN: Goldener Anker [ Swiss
This is the original home of a International Salita al Castello 18, 6500
famous butter-based sauce, Marktgasse 57, 3800 Tel 091-814 87 81 Closed Mon; Jul
which they also sell in small Tel 033-822 16 72 & Aug
pots. The steak and chips is Renowned for its large portions Outstanding restaurant with two
to die for. and reasonable prices. The fresh dining options. The Grotto has a
fish dishes and enormous pork cavern-like feel where specialties
GENEVA: L’Epicentre [[ chops are excellent. Book ahead. such as risotto and gnocchi are
International on offer, while the gourmet
Rue Prévost-Martin 25, 1205 ZERMATT: Zum See [[ dining room has a modern decor.
Tel 022-328 14 70 Closed Sat & Sun Mediterranean
A hugely popular choice for Zum See, 3920 LOCARNO: Cittadella [[
its dedication to the taste Tel 027-967 20 45 Closed May & Nov Italian
experience, each bite is a unique This highly regarded mountain Via Cittadella 18, 6600
explosion of spices. The decor is restaurant offers a seasonal Tel 091-751 58 85
urban and minimalist, and the menu – mountain berries and Situated in the heart of the Old
wine is organic. fresh vegetables in summer, Town, Cittadella occupies two
and game in autumn. floors of a characterful building.
GSTAAD: Megu [[[ Pizzas are baked in a wood-
Japanese burning oven, and there is also a
Alpinastrasse 23, 3780 great selection of seafood dishes.
Tel 033-888 98 66 Closed Mon & Tue Zürich and Lucerne
This restaurant with a modern LUGANO: Arté al Lago [[[
wood-clad decor sits within the LUCERNE: Mediterranean
luxurious Gstaad Alpina hotel Old Swiss House [[[ Piazza Emilio Bossi 7, 6900
and serves exceptional Japanese Swiss Tel 091-973 48 00 Closed Sun & Mon
cuisine. Try the Wagyu beef, Löwenplatz 4, 6004 Head here for sumptuous service,
crispy asparagus, and freshly Tel 041-410 61 71 Closed Mon fresh lake fish and seafood, and the
prepared sushi. Booking is a must. In a landmark half-timbered finest wines in a gallery set in a
house with great charm, this subtropical park on the lake shore.
LAUSANNE: eatery serves innovative fare –
La Croix d’Ouchy [[ do not miss the Wienerschnitzel. ST. MORITZ: La Marmite [[[
French/Italian Phenomenal wine list. International
Avenue d’Ouchy 43, 1006 Corviglia lift station, 7500
Tel 021-616 22 33 Closed Jun ZÜRICH: Haus zum Rüden [[ Tel 081-833 63 55 Closed May–Dec
This lakeside restaurant offers French Haute cuisine at high altitude
French and Italian cuisine with Limmatquai 42, 8001 was invented here and there is
good vegetarian choices. Tel 044-261 95 66 Closed Sun still nowhere more elegant or
Try the sublime risottos and the This restaurant has a Gothic scrumptious. Try the caviar on
black truffle ravioli. Sunny terrace. dining hall with a stunning mashed potatoes.
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SCANDINAVIA





Scandinavia at a Glance 598–599

Sweden 600–617
Norway 618–633
Denmark 634–649
Finland 650–663

Side trip to St. Petersburg 658–659












































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598  SC ANDINA VIA A T A GLANCE  599

Scandinavia at a Glance Oslo (see pp622–6), Norway’s
capital, is an attractive city of
The Scandinavian countries – Denmark, Norway, grand Neo-Classical buildings,
Sweden, and Finland – are, arguably, among the wide boulevards, and green
least known countries in Europe. In Norway, open spaces. In Frogner Park,
one of the largest parks, is
Sweden, and Finland, the majority of the a collection of works by
population lives in the south, in affluent, modern the eccentric Norwegian Tromsø
cities, which are also rich in history and tradition. sculptor Gustav Vigeland
Away from the main towns and cities lie vast (1869–1943).
expanses of unspoiled, often wild terrain, from
the breathtaking Norwegian fjords to the dense
pine forests and clear lakes of Finland. At just
over seven hours by train from Helsinki, St.
Petersburg, Russia’s second city, is easily Kemijärvi
accessible from eastern Scandinavia.
Mo i Rana
Bergen (see p628) Luleå Kemi
was the largest
town and most
important port in Oulu
medieval Norway. Storuman
Its streets are lined
with fine historic
monuments, including FINLAND
the 12th-century Umeå (see pp650–63)
Mariakirken, the oldest
building in the city. Trondheim Kuopio
Vaasa

Jyväskylä
Ålesund Sundsvall
Tampere
NORWAY Lahti
(see pp618–33) Turku
Gävle St. Petersburg
Helsinki
Bergen
Drammen Oslo
Stockholm
Karlstad
Stavanger
SWEDEN
(see pp600–17)
Kristiansand
Jönköping
Gothenburg Visby
Aalborg Växjö
DENMARK Halmstad
(see pp634–49) Århus

Esbjerg Copenhagen Malmö
Odense
Copenhagen (see pp638–43) is a
cosmopolitan city with a relaxed and
welcoming atmosphere. Among the
Danish capital’s most visited attractions
is the theme park, Tivoli Gardens, with
its famous Chinese Pagoda.
Brightly-painted buildings along Nyhavn, in Copenhagen, Denmark



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