(DK Eyewitness) Travel Guide - Europe

BARCEL ONA  299


Museu Frederic Marès 1 Barcelona
This medieval doorway is from an Cathedral
extensive display of Spanish
sculpture – the mainstay of this Plaça de la Seu. Tel 93-342 82 62. q
museum’s extraordinarily eclectic Jaume I. @ 17, V17, 45. Open 8am–
and high-quality collections. 7:30pm daily. & (lunchtime). 8 7
Begun in 1298 under Jaime II
on the foundations of a site
dating back to Visigothic times,
this compact Gothic cathedral
was not finished until the late
19th century. The interior has
beautiful Gothic cloisters and
carved 15th-century choir stalls
with painted coats of arms.
Beneath the main altar, the
crypt houses the sarcophagus
of St. Eulalia, martyred in the
4th century AD. The nave has
28 side chapels, and a vaulted
ceiling that rises to 26 m (85 ft).

. Conjunt Monumental de
TA P I N E R I A
Capella Reial de la Plaça del Rei
Santa Àgata The 14th-century Capella Reial
de Santa Àgata, with its 1466
Plaça del Rei altarpiece, is one of the best-
preserved sections of the palace.
Palau del Lloctinent


A
N
T A
E
I
A The wide Catalan Gothic nave of
L
Barcelona Cathedral
A
I
V
2 Museu d’Història
C A R R E R D E J A U M E I Jaume I
de Barcelona
Museu d’Història de Barcelona Plaça del Rei. Tel 93-256 21 00.
Housed in a 14th-century mansion are the most q Jaume I. Open 10am–7pm Tue–
extensive subterranean Roman ruins in the world. Sat, 10am–8pm Sun. Closed Jan 1,
Visitors can see the streets of Roman Barcelona
A and an exhibition on the city’s 13th- and May 1, Jun 24, Dec 25. & (free first
I Sun of month & from 3pm every Sun).
R 14th-century growth.
E 8 by appt. ∑ museuhistoria.
U bcn.cat
G
A
D S O T S – T I N E N T N AVA R R O The Royal Palace, founded in the
13th century, was the residence
R Key
E of the count-kings of Barcelona.
R Suggested route
R A museum was formally created
A here in 1940 to include the
C
Gothic Saló del Tinell and the
Capella de Santa Àgata, with a
painted-wood ceiling by Jaume
Huguet. Entire streets of old
0 meters 100
Barcino are accessible via walk-
0 yards 100 ways suspended over the ruins,
and an innovative expansion
project is underway.
For keys to symbols see back flap
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3 La Rambla
q Drassanes, Liceu, Catalunya.
Busy around the clock, this is
one of the most famous streets
in Spain. A stroll down its tree-
shaded, central walkway to the
seafront, taking in the mansions,
shops, and cafés, makes a
perfect introduction to
Barcelona life.
The name comes from the
Arabic ramla, meaning the
dried-up bed of a seasonal river.
Barcelona’s 13th-century city
wall followed the left bank of
one such river. During the 16th
century, convents, monasteries, The Gothic interior of the Basílica de Santa Maria del Mar
and a university were built on
the opposite bank. Later 1889, this fascinating work of art Barcelona’s liveliest square and
demolished, they have left their is located on a narrow street just dates from the 1850s. Also
legacy in the names of the five off La Rambla. Nearby, the Gran worth visiting, the Museu de
sections of the street. Today, Teatre del Liceu, the city’s fine Cera (waxwork museum) is
La Rambla is thronged by street opera house, has been restored housed in an atmospheric
vendors, tarot readers, twice after fires in 1861 and 19th-century building, and
musicians, and mime artists. 1994. Further along is the huge holds around 300 exhibits.
Among its many famous Mercat de Sant Josep, a
buildings is the Palau Güell, a colorful food market popularly P Palau Güell
Neo-Gothic mansion that known as “La Boqueria.” Carrer Nou de la Rambla 3–5.
established the international On the opposite side of La Tel 93-472 57 75. q Drassanes, Liceu.
reputation of Catalan architect Rambla, midway between the Open 10am–8pm Tue–Sun (Nov–Mar:
Antoni Gaudí for outstanding, Drassanes and Liceu metro to 5:30pm). & (free from 5pm Sun;
original architecture. Built in stations, the Plaça Reial is Nov–Mar: 1st Sun of month). 8 7
4 Basílica de Santa
Maria del Mar
Plaza Sta. Maria 1. Tel 93-310 23 90.
q Jaume I. Open 9am–1:30pm,
4:30–8pm daily (from 10am Sun).
This beautiful building, the
city’s favorite church, has
superb acoustics for concerts.
It is also the only surviving
example of an entirely Catalan
Gothic-style church.
The church took just 55
years to build. The speed of
its construction – unrivaled
in the Middle Ages – gave it
a unity of style both inside
and out. The west front has a
15th-century rose window of
the Coronation of the Virgin.
More stained glass, dating
from the 15th to the 18th
centuries, lights the wide
nave and high aisles.
The choir and furnishings
were destroyed during the
Spanish Civil War (1936–9),
which only serves to enhance
Monument to Columbus at the southern end of the tree-lined Rambla the sense of space and simplicity.
For hotels and restaurants see pp330–32 and pp333–5


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5 Museu Picasso
Carrer Montcada 15–23. Tel 93-256 30
00. q Jaume I. Open 9am–7pm Tue–
Sun (to 9:30pm Thu). Closed Jan 1,
May 1, Jun 24, Dec 25 & 26. & (free
Sun pm & first Sun of month). 8 7
∑ museupicasso.bcn.es
One of Barcelona’s most popular
attractions, the Picasso Museum
is housed in five adjoining
palaces on the Carrer Montcada.
It was founded in 1963,
displaying works donated by
Jaime Sabartes, a great friend of
Picasso. Later, Picasso himself
donated paintings, including
some graphic works left in his
will. Several ceramic pieces
were given to the museum
by his widow, Jacqueline.
The strength of the 3,000-
piece collection is Picasso’s early The rippled facade of Gaudí’s Casa Milà “La Pedrera” in the Quadrat d’Or
drawings and paintings, such as
The First Communion (1896), parks called Nova Icària. The roof is covered in iridescent tiles
produced when he was still an area is still popularly known which recall the dragon’s scaly
adolescent. The most famous as the Vila Olímpica because back. It is the centrepiece of a
work on show is the series Las the buildings once housed trio of neighbouring mansions,
Meninas, based on Velázquez’s Olympic athletes. each designed by a leading
1656 masterpiece (see p280). On the seafront there are Modernista architect: the Casa
twin 44-floor towers – Spain’s Amatller was designed by Puig i
tallest skyscrapers. They stand Cadafalch and the Casa Lleo i
beside the Port Olímpic, also Morera was created by
built for the Olympics. Two Domènech i Montaner. Both are
levels of restaurants, stores, open for guided visits. Across
and nightclubs around the the Passeig de Gràcia is another
marina attract business people of Gaudí’s remarkable creations,
at lunchtimes and pleasure the Casa Milà, or La Pedrera,
seekers at weekends. which has a creamy, rippling
façade and is topped with a
terrace offering superb views.
7 Sagrada Família
P Casa Milà/La Pedrera
See pp302–3.
Passeig de Gràcia, 92. Tel 902 202 138
Open 9am–8:30pm (to 6:30pm mid-
Nov to mid-Feb). Closed 25 Dec &
8 Casa Batlló 11–17 Jan.
q Passeig de Gracia. Tel 93 216 0306
Open daily 9am–9pm (last adm
Yachts in the marina at the Port Olímpic, 8pm). 7
overlooked by skyscrapers
The Passeig de Gràcia is
6 Vila Olímpica Barcelona’s most elegant avenue,
and home to top fashion
q Ciutadella-Vila Olímpica.
boutiques and emblematic
The most dramatic rebuilding Modernista buildings. The most
for the 1992 Olympics was the original of these is the Casa
demolition of the old industrial Batlló, a fantastical mansion
waterfront and the laying out designed by Gaudí and
of 4 km (2 miles) of promenade completed in1906. Covered in
and pristine sandy beaches. shimmering mosaics, its design
Suddenly Barcelona seemed is said to have been inspired by
like a seaside resort, with a new the legend of St George (Sant
estate of 2,000 apartments and Jordi in Catalan), and the curving The opulent interior of the Casa Batllo




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7 Sagrada Família

Europe’s most unconventional church, the Temple Expiatori
de la Sagrada Família is an emblem of a city that likes to think
of itself as individualistic. Full of symbolism inspired by nature
and striving for originality, it is the greatest work of Catalan
architect Antoni Gaudí (1852–1926). In 1883, a year after
work began on a Neo-Gothic church on the site, he was
given the task of completing it. Gaudí changed everything,
extemporizing as he went along. It became his life’s work
and he lived like a recluse on the site for the last few years
of his life. He is buried in the crypt. By the time of his death,
only one tower on the Nativity facade had been completed,
but several more have since been finished to his original Bell Towers
plans. After the Civil War, work resumed and continues Eight of the 12 spires, one
for each apostle, have been
today, financed by public subscription. built. Each is topped by
Venetian mosaics.
The Finished Church
Gaudí’s initial ambitions have been scaled
down over the years, but the design for
the building’s completion remains
impressive. Still to come is the
central tower, which is to
be encircled by four large
towers representing the
Evangelists. Four towers on
the Glory (south) facade
will match the existing four
on the Passion (west) and
four on the Nativity (east)
facades. An ambulatory –
like an inside-out cloister
– will run round the
outside of the building.





Entrance to Crypt















. Passion Facade
This bleak facade was completed
from 1986 to 2000 by artist Josep
Maria Subirachs. A controversial Main entrance
work, its sculpted figures are
angular and often sinister.
For hotels and restaurants see pp330–32 and pp333–5


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Spiral Staircases
Some of the towers VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
can be accessed by Practical Information
elevator, with the
option to come down Calle Mallorca 401.
Tel 93-208 04 14.
by elevator or via the
stone steps. There are Open 9am–8pm (Oct–Mar: to
7pm; Nov–Feb: to 6pm). Closed
majestic views from Jan 1 & 6, Dec 25 & 26 (from 2pm).
the towers and 5 9am, 8:15pm Mon–Sat, 9am,
upper galleries.
10:30am, 11:45am, 1pm, 8:15pm
Sun. & 8 7 ground floor.
∑ sagradafamilia.org
Transport
q Sagrada Família. @ 19, 33, 34,
50, 51, B20, B24.
. Nativity Facade
The most complete part of Gaudí’s
church has doorways representing
Faith, Hope, and Charity. Scenes of the
Nativity and Christ’s childhood contain
imagery, such as doves, which
symbolize the congregation.






. Crypt
The crypt, where Gaudí is buried and
services are currently held, was begun
by the original architect, Francesc de
Paula Villar i Lozano, in 1882. A small
museum traces the careers of both
architects and the church’s
complicated history.












Nave
In the nave, a forest of fluted pillars
support five galleries above the side aisles,
while stained glass windows let in light.
KEY
1 The apse was the first part of the
church Gaudí completed. Stairs lead
down from here to the crypt below.
2 The altar canopy and altar were
installed for the Pope’s visit in 2010.
3 4 Tower with elevator





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Exhibition, and later for the 1992 Miró (1893–1983) is lit by
Olympics. On the western edge natural light.
is the Poble Espanyol – a An admirer of primitive
“village” of streets and squares, Catalan art and Gaudí’s
created in 1929 to showcase Modernism, Miró developed a
Spanish architectural styles. The Surrealistic style, with vivid
Museu Arqueo lògic holds finds colors and fantastical forms that
from prehistoric cultures in suggested dreamlike situations.
Catalonia and the Balearic Miró himself donated the works
Islands. The Museu Etnològic displayed here. Some of the
houses artifacts from Oceania, best pieces at the museum
Africa, Asia, and Latin America. include his Barcelona Series
The summit of Montjuïc is (1939–44), a set of 50 black-and-
occupied by the huge 18th- white lithographs. Temporary
century Castell de Montjuïc, exhibitions of other artists’ work
built for the Bourbon family. The are also held here.
castle has been converted into
an International Peace Center,
with exhibitions on the history of
Pretty whitewashed houses in Poble the castle and the Montjuïc
Espanyol, Montjuïc Mountain. In summer, outdoor
film screenings take place.
9 Montjuïc
q Espanya, Poble Sec, Paral·lel. + Castell de Montjuïc
@ 13, 50, 150 from Plaça Espanya. Parc de Montjuïc. Tel 93-256 44 40.
q Paral·lel, then funicular & cable car.
The hill of Montjuic, rising to Open daily. Closed Jan 1, Dec 25.
213 m (699 ft) above the & 8 7
commercial port on the south E Museu Arqueològic
side of the city, is Barcelona’s Passeig Santa Madrona 39. Tel 93-423
biggest recreation area. Its 21 49. q Espanya, Poble Sec. Open
museums, art galleries, Tue–Sat, Sun am & public hols. Closed
amusement park, and Jan 1, Dec 25 & 26. & 7 ∑ mac.es
nightclubs make it popular
night and day. The hill is also a 0 Fundació Joan
spectacular vantage point from The Palau Nacional, home of the Museu
which to view the city. Miró Nacional d’Art de Catalunya
There was probably a Celt- Parc de Montjuïc. Tel 93-443 94 70. q Museu Nacional
Iberian settlement here before q Espanya or Paral·lel, then bus 55 or
the Romans built a temple to 150. Open Tue–Sat, Sun am & public d’Art de Catalunya
Jupiter on their Mons Jovis, hols. Closed Jan 1, Dec 25 & 26. & Palau Nacional, Parc de Montjuïc.
which may have given Montjuïc 7 ∑ fmirobcn.org Tel 93-622 03 60. q Espanya.
its name. Another theory Open Tue–Sat, Sun am & public hols.
suggests that a Jewish cemetery Housed in a boldly modern Closed Jan 1, May 1, Dec 25. & 8
on the hill inspired the name building designed in 1975 by call 93-622 03 75 in advance. 7
Mount of the Jews. Many Josep Lluís Sert, this collection
buildings were erected in of paintings, sculptures, and Originally built for the 1929
1929, for an International tapestries by Catalan artist Joan International Exhibition,
since 1934, the austere Palau
Nacional (National Palace) has
been used to house the city’s
most important art collection.
The museum contains one
of the greatest displays of
Romanesque art in the world,
its centerpiece being a series
of magnificent 12th-century
frescoes. These have been
peeled from Catalan Pyrenean
churches (to save them from
the ravages of pollution and
time) and pasted on to replicas
of the original vaulted ceilings
A section of the 18th-century castle on the summit of Montjuïc and apses they adorned.
For hotels and restaurants see pp330–32 and pp333–5


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The most remarkable are the
wall paintings from the churches
of Santa Maria de Taüll and Sant
Climent de Taüll in Vall de Boí.
The museum’s superb Gothic
collection covers the whole of
Spain, but is particularly good
on Catalonia. Several out-
standing works by El Greco,
Velázquez, and Zurbarán are on
display in the Renaissance and
Baroque section.
w Park Güell
Carrer d’Olot. Tel 902-200 302.
q Lesseps. Open daily. & 8 7
Casa-Museu Gaudí: Tel 93-219 38 11.
Open daily. Closed Jan 1 & 6, Dec 25
& 26 (am). &
Designated a World Heritage
site by UNESCO, the Park Güell is
Gaudí’s most colorful creation.
He was commissioned in the
1890s by Count Eusebi Güell
to design a garden city on 20
hectares (50 acres) of family
estate. Little of Gaudí’s grand
plan for decorative buildings
among landscaped gardens
became reality. What we see
today was completed between
1910 and 1914. Mosaic-encrusted chimney by Gaudí at the entrance of Park Güell
Most atmospheric is the
Room of a Hundred Columns, an open space with a snaking and a funicular railway. The
a cavernous covered hall of balcony of colored mosaics, name, inspired by Tibidabo’s
84 crooked pillars, which is said to have the longest bench views of the city, comes from
brightened by glass and in the world. It was executed the Latin tibi dabo (I shall give
ceramic mosaics. Above it, by Josep Jujol, one of Gaudí’s you) – a reference to the
reached by a flight of steps chief collaborators. Temptation of Christ, who was
flanked by ceramic animals, The two mosaic-decorated taken up a mountain by Satan
is the Gran Plaça Circular – pavilions at the entrance are by and offered the world.
Gaudí, but the Casa-Museu The popular amusement park
Gaudí, a small pink villa where at Parc d’Atraccions first opened
he lived from 1906–26, was built in 1908. The rides were
by Francesc Berenguer. The completely renovated in the
drawings and furniture inside 1980s. While the old ones retain
are all by Gaudí. their charm, the newer ones
provide the latest in vertiginous
experiences. Their hilltop
e Tibidabo location at 517 m (1,696 ft) adds
to the thrill. Also in the park is
Plaça del Tibidabo 3–4. Tel 93-211 79
42. q Av Tibidabo, then Tramvia Blau the Museu dels Autòmats,
& funicular, or TibiBus from Plaça which displays automated toys,
Catalunya. Amusement Park: Open jukeboxes, and gaming machines.
call to check. Closed Oct–Apr: Tibidabo is crowned by the
Mon–Fri. 7 Temple del Sagrat Cor: Temple Expiatori del Sagrat
Tel 93-417 56 86. Open daily. Cor (Church of the Sacred
∑ tibidabo.cat Heart), built with religious zeal
but little taste by Enric Sagnier
The heights of Tibidabo are between 1902 and 1911. Inside,
An ornate merry-go-round at the Parc reached by Barcelona’s last an elevator takes you up to an
d’Atraccions, Tibidabo surviving tram, the Tramvia Blau, enormous statue of Christ.




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o Monestir de Montserrat

Its highest peak rising to 1,236 m (4,055 ft), the “Serrated
Mountain” (mont serrat) is a magnificent setting for
Catalonia’s holiest place, the Monastery of Montserrat,
which is surrounded by chapels and hermits’ caves.
The earliest record of a chapel on this site is from the
9th century. The monastery was founded in the 11th
century. In 1811, when the French attacked Catalonia in
the War of Independence, the monastery was destroyed
and the monks killed. Rebuilt and repopulated in 1844,
it was a beacon of Catalan culture in the Franco years.
Today, Benedictine monks live here. Visitors can hear the
famous male choir singing the Salve Regina and the
Virolai (the Montserrat hymn) at 1pm Monday to Friday,
noon and 6:45pm Sunday (except in July and August),
and from December 26 to January 8.



















Plaça de Santa Maria
The focal points of the square
are two wings of the Gothic
cloister built in 1476. The
modern monastery facade
is by Françesc Folguera.

The Way of the Cross
This path passes 11
statues representing the
Stations of the Cross.
It begins near the
Plaça de l’Abat Oliba.







Montserrat
The complex includes
cafés and a hotel. A
second funicular railway
takes visitors to nature
trails above the monastery.
For hotels and restaurants see pp330–32 and pp333–5


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. Basilica Facade VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
Agapit Vallmitjana
sculpted Christ and Practical Information
the apostles on the Montserrat (Barcelona province).
basilica’s Neo- Tel 93-877 77 77.
Renaissance facade. ∑ montserratvisita.com
It was built in 1900 Basilica: Open 7am–8pm Mon–
to replace the Thu; 7am–6:45pm Sat, Sun & Aug.
Renaissance facade of 5 from 9am Mon–Sat, from
the original church, 9:30am Sun & religious hols. &
consecrated in 1592. Museum: Open 10am–5:45pm
Mon–Fri, 10am–6:45pm Sat &
Sun. & 8 7
. Black Virgin Transport
La Moreneta looks down from £ to Montserrat-Aeri, then cable
behind the altar, protected behind car; or to Montserrat-Cremallera,
glass. Her wooden orb protrudes then funicular. @ from Barcelona.
for pilgrims to touch.


















Basilica Interior
The sanctuary in the domed
basilica is adorned by a richly
enameled altar and paintings
by Catalan artists.


KEY
1 Funicular to the holy site
of Santa Cova
2 Information Office
3 The museum holds 19th- and
20th-century Catalan paintings,
works by Picasso and Dalí, and many
The Virgin of Montserrat archaeological exhibits from West Asia.
The small wooden statue of La Moreneta 4 Gothic cloister
(“the dark one”) is the soul of Montserrat. It 5 The inner courtyard has a
is said to have been made by St. Luke and baptistry (1958), with sculptures
brought here by St. Peter in AD 50. Centuries by Charles Collet. Pilgrims may
later, the statue is believed to have been approach the Virgin through a
hidden from the Moors in the nearby Santa door to the right.
Cova (Holy Cave). Carbon dating suggests, 6 The rack railroad follows the
however, that the statue was carved around course of a historic railroad line
the 12th century. In 1881, Montserrat’s Black built in 1880.
Virgin became patroness of Catalonia.
7 Terminal for cable car from Aeri
The Black Virgin of Montserrat de Montserrat train station





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Eastern Spain and the d Valencia
Balearic Islands Valencia. * 810,000. k 8 km (5
miles) SW. £ g @ n Plaza de la
Eastern Spain covers an extraordinary range of climates and Reina 19 (963-15 39 31). _ Las Fallas
landscapes, from the snowbound peaks of the Pyrenees in (Mar 15–19). ∑ turisvalencia.es
Aragón to the beaches of the Costa Blanca. The region has Valencia, Spain’s third-largest
many historical sights, including the striking Mudéjar city, is famous for its ceramics,
churches of Zaragoza and the great cathedral of Valencia. and for the spectacular fiesta
The coastal resorts of Eastern Spain are a popular destination, of Las Fallas, marked by the
erection and burning of
as are the Balearic Islands. Mallorca is the most culturally rich elaborate papier-mâché
of the islands, while Menorca is dotted with prehistoric sites. monuments (fallas).
Ibiza is chiefly known for its exuberant nightlife, but Among the city’s finest
Formentera remains largely unspoiled. Mallorquí, a dialect buildings are La Lonja, an
of the Catalan language brought by 13th-century settlers, exquisite Late Gothic hall built
is still widely spoken on the islands. between 1482 and 1498, and
the cathedral (1262) on Plaza
de la Reina. Other monuments
worth visiting include the
Gothic Palau de la Generalitat,
with its splendidly decorated
first-floor chambers, and the
17th-century Basílica de la
Virgen de los Desamparados.
Beyond the city center is the
Torres de Serranos gateway,
erected in 1391.
Valencia has a number of fine
museums. The Museo de Bellas
Artes holds 2,000 paintings and
statues dating from antiquity to
the 19th century, including six
paintings by Goya, while the
Institut Valencià de Art Modern
Cupolas of the Basílica de Nuestra Señora del Pilar in Zaragoza (IVAM) displays modern art in a
s Zaragoza styles. Part of the exterior is striking contemporary building.
Valencia’s metro system takes
Zaragoza. * 701,000. k £ @ faced with typical Mudéjar brick tourists to the extensive
n Plaza del Pilar (902-14 20 08). and ceramic decoration, while beaches of El Cabañal and La
( Wed, Sun. inside are a fine Gothic reredos Malvarrosa, east of the city.
and splendid Flemish tapestries.
The Roman settlement of Nearby is the flamboyant P La Lonja
Caesaraugusta gave Zaragoza Mudéjar bell tower of the Plaza del Mercado s/n. Tel 96-352 54
its name. Located on the fertile Iglesia de la Magdalena, and 78 (ext. 4153). Open daily. 8
banks of the Río Ebro, it grew to remains of the Roman forum.
become Spain’s fifth-largest city, Parts of the Roman walls can
and the capital of Aragón. be seen on the opposite side
Badly damaged during the of the Plaza del Pilar near the
early 19th-century War of Mercado de Lanuza, a market
Independence, the old center with sinuous iron-work in Art
nevertheless retains several fine Nouveau style. The Museo
monuments. Overlooking the Camón Aznar houses the
vast Plaza del Pilar is the Basílica eclectic collection of an art
de Nuestra Señora del Pilar. historian, whose special interest
With its 11 brightly tiled was the locally born artist Goya.
cupolas, it is one of the city’s The Alfajería, a beautiful
most impressive sights. 11th-century Moorish palace
Also on the square are the with gardens and a mosque, lies
Gothic-Plateresque Lonja on the main road to Bilbao.
(commodities exchange),
the Palacio Episcopal, and E Museo Camón Aznar
Zaragoza’s cathedral, La Seo, Calle Espoz y Mina 23. Tel 976-39 73 Effigy burning in Valencia during the
which displays a great mix of 87. Open Tue–Sun. 7 annual fiesta of Las Fallas
For hotels and restaurants see pp330–32 and pp333–5


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g Mallorca and the La Granja, and Alfàbia, which
Balearic Islands exudes a Moorish atmosphere,
are aristocratic estates open to
k g @ Palma, Mallorca; Maó, the public. The Sanctuari de
Menorca. n Plaça de la Reina 2, Lluc, in the remote mountain
Mallorca (971-17 39 90). village of the same name,
incorporates a guesthouse,
The largest of the Balearic a museum, and a church.
islands, Mallorca has a varied
landscape and a rich cultural Menorca
heritage. A massive Gothic Menorca’s capital, Maó, has
cathedral is poised high on one of the finest harbors
the sea wall of Palma, its in the Mediterranean, an
capital. Completed in 1587 18th-century Carmelite church,
The mountain village of Castell de and known locally as Sa Seu, and a museum – the Collecció
Guadalest, Costa Blanca the cathedral is one of Spain’s Hernández Mora – housing
most breathtaking buildings. Menorcan art and antiques. The
P Palau de la Generalitat The interior was remodeled town of Ciutadella boasts an
Calle Caballeros 2. Tel 96-386 34 61. by Antoni Gaudí and a high- impressive main square and a
Open by prior appointment only. light is the Baldachino, his delightful Art Nouveau market.
E Museo de Bellas Artes bizarre wrought-iron canopy Menorca’s many Bronze Age
Calle San Pio V 9. Tel 96-387 03 00. above the altar. villages – to which there is
Open 11am–5pm Mon, 10am–7pm Also worth visiting in Palma usually free access – are mostly
Tue–Sun. Closed Jan 1, Good Friday, are the Basílica de Sant Francesc, the work of the “talaiotic” people,
Dec 25. 8 7 the Moorish Palau de l’Almudaina, who lived from 2000–1000 BC.
and the Fundació Pilar i Joan Miró
f Costa Blanca – a stunning modern building Ibiza and Formentera
housing Miró’s studio and a A popular package-tour
k g £ @ Alicante. n Rambla collection of the artist’s work. destination, Ibiza has some
Méndez Núñez 41, Alicante (96-520 Around the island, Andratx of the wildest nightclubs in
00 00). ∑ costablanca.org is a chic and affluent town Europe. An hour’s boat ride
with yachts moored along its from Ibiza harbor are the
The Costa Blanca occupies a harbor, while Pollença is a tranquil shores of Formentera.
prime stretch of Mediterranean popular tourist resort which has The capital, Sant Francesc, has
coastline. The main city, Alicante remained relatively unspoiled. a pretty 18th-century church
(Alacant), has an 18th-century The 18th-century family home and a folk museum.
Baroque town hall and a
16th-century castle, the Castillo
de Santa Bárbara. The nearest
beach to the city center is the
popular Postiguet; slightly farther
afield are the vast beaches of La
Albufereta and Sant Joan.
The massive, rocky outcrop of
the Penyal d’Ifach towers over
Calp harbor, and is one of the
Costa Blanca’s most dramatic
sights. Its summit offers
spectacular views. A short drive
inland, Castell de Guadalest is
a pretty mountain village with
castle ruins and a distinctive
belfry perched precariously
on top of a rock.
Also worth visiting are the
whitewashed hilltop town of
Altea, Denia, which has good
snorkeling, and the cliffs and
coves around Xabia. South of
Alicante, Guardamar del Segura
has a quiet beach bordered by
pine woods, while Torrevieja is
a highly developed resort with
sweeping, sandy shores. Looking across the marina to the spectacular cathedral, Palma, Mallorca




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310  THE IBERIAN PENINSULA

Southern Spain of these, the Iglesia de Santa
Ana, has an elegant Plateresque
One large region – Andalusia – extends across the south of portal. The Real Chancillería, or
Spain. It was here that the Moors lingered longest and left Royal Chancery (1530), boasts a
their greatest monuments in the cities of Granada, Córdoba, beautiful Renaissance facade.
Málaga, and Seville. The eight southern provinces span a wide Also worth visiting in the
Albaicín district is the Museo
range of landscapes, with deserts in the east, sandy beaches Arqueológico, with Iberian,
along the Costa del Sol, and sherry-producing vineyards Phoenician, and Roman finds.
around Jerez. From flamingoes in the wetland Doñana From one end of the district,
National Park to flamenco – the uniquely Andalusian art a road leads up to Sacro monte.
form – the region has something to interest every visitor. Granada’s gypsies once lived in
the caves lining this hillside.
Their legacy lives on in the
flamenco shows performed
here in the evenings.
From the northern side of the
Alhambra, a footpath leads to
the Generalife (see pp312–13),
the country estate of the Nasrid
kings. The gardens, begun in
the 13th century, originally
contained orchards and pastures.
Today, their lush greenery, pools,
and graceful water fountains
provide a magical setting for
the many events staged each
year between mid-June and
early July on the occasion of
the city’s international music
Antonio Palamino’s cupola in the Monasterio de la Cartuja, Granada and dance festival.
h Granada houses Carrara marble figures of E Museo Casa de los Tiros
the Catholic Monarchs, whose Calle Pavaneras 19. Tel 958-57 54 66.
Granada. * 239,000. k 12 km bodies lie in the crypt. Equally Open Tue–Sun. Closed main public
(7 miles) SW. £ @ n Plaza del hols. & 7
Carmen 9 (902-40 50 45). impressive are the Museo Casa
_ Corpus Christi (May–Jun). de los Tiros, a fortress-like palace P Palacio de la Madraza
∑ granadatur.com built in Mudéjar style, and the Calle Oficios 14. Tel 958-24 34 84.
Monasterio de la Cartuja, both Open 10:30am–1pm & 3:30–6:30pm
The ancient city of Granada, dating from the 16th century. Mon–Sat, 11am–1pm Sun.
founded by the Iberians, was Founded by a Christian warrior, E Museo Arqueológico
for 250 years the capital of a the latter has a dazzling cupola Carrera del Darro 43. Tel 958-57
Moorish kingdom. The Nasrid by Antonio Palomino. 54 08. Closed for renovations.
dynasty, who ruled from 1238 Relics of the Moorish era in
until 1492, when Granada fell the old town include the Corral
to the Catholic Monarchs, left del Carbón, a former storehouse
some outstanding examples of and inn for merchants, and the
Moorish architecture here. The Palacio de la Madraza. Originally
greatest legacy of their rule is an Arab university, the palace
the spectacular palace complex has a splendid Moorish hall with
of the Alhambra (see pp312–13). a finely decorated mihrab
Under the Nasrids, the city (prayer niche). The palace holds
enjoyed a golden age, temporary art exhibitions.
acquiring an international Granada’s Moorish ancestry
reputation as a major cultural is most evident in the hillside
center. Later, under Christian Albaicín district, which faces the
rule, the city became a focus Alhambra. Along its cobbled
for the Renaissance. alleys stand cármenes – villas
Granada’s 16th-century with Moorish decor and
Gothic cathedral has a gardens – and El Bañuelo, the
Renaissance facade and a 11th-century brick-vaulted Arab
Baroque west front. Nearby, the baths. The churches here were
Capilla Real (Royal Chapel), mostly built on the sites of Entrance to the Moorish mihrab in the
built between 1505 and 1507, mosques. The most beautiful Palacio de la Madraza, Granada
For hotels and restaurants see pp330–32 and pp333–5


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SP AIN  311

k Costa del Sol
by Diego de Siloé. The
half-built second tower, k g £ @ Málaga. n Avda
abandoned in 1765, Cervantes 1, Málaga (95-220 96 03).
gave the cathedral its ∑ visitcostadelsol.com
nickname: La Manquita
(“the one-armed one”). With its year-round sunshine and
The Casa Natal varied coastline, the Costa del
de Picasso, where the Sol attracts crowds of vacationers
painter spent his early every year and also has half a
years, is now the million foreign residents.
headquarters of the Its most stylish resort is
international Picasso Marbella, frequented by royalty
Foundation, while the and film stars, who spend their
Museo Picasso Málaga summers here in the smart villas
is home to about 300 of or luxury hotels overlooking the
his works. area’s 28 beaches. Puerto Banús
The city’s vast is its ostentatious marina. In
fortress – the Alcazaba winter, the major attraction is
– was built between the golf: 30 of Europe’s finest golf
8th and 11th centuries. courses lie just inland.
The main facade of Málaga’s unusual cathedral, Its major attractions are Among the highlights of
consecrated in 1588 Phoenician, Roman, and Marbella’s old town is the Museo
Moorish artifacts, as well de Grabado Contemporáneo,
j Málaga as a Roman theater. The ruined which displays some of Picasso’s
Castillo de Gibralfaro, a least-known work, the peaceful
Málaga. * 570,000. k g £ @
n Avda. Cervantes 1 (95-220 96 03). 14th-century Moorish castle, Iglesia de Nuestra Señora de la
lies behind the Alcazaba. Encarnación, and the town hall,
Málaga, the second-largest city with its exquisite, panelled
in Andalusia, was a thriving port E Museo Picasso Málaga Mudéjar ceiling.
under Phoenician, Roman, and C/San Agustín 8. Tel 95-212 76 00. Sotogrande, to the west of
Moorish rule. It also flourished Open daily. Closed Dec 25, Jan 1 & 6. Marbella, is an exclusive resort.
during the 19th century, when & 8 7 ∑ museopicasso The marina is fronted by good
sweet Málaga wine was one of malaga.org seafood restaurants. In spite of
Europe’s most popular drinks. + Alcazaba tourism, Estepona preserves its
At the heart of the old town is Calle Alcazabilla. Tel 95-222 72 30. Spanish character, with pretty
the cathedral, begun in 1528 Open 9am–8pm daily. tree-filled squares and tapas bars.
To the east are the package-
Moorish Spain holiday resorts of Fuengirola
and Torremolinos. Once the
In the 8th century, the brash haunt of young northern
Iberian Peninsula came European tourists, they are now
almost entirely under more family-oriented.
Moorish rule. The Muslim
settlers called Spain “Al
Andalus.” A powerful
caliphate was established in
Córdoba, which became the
center of one of the most
brilliant civilizations of early-
medieval Europe. The Moors
Typical Moorish alcazaba, dating from the erected alcazabas (castles
10th century built into city ramparts) and
palaces surrounded by
patios, pools, and gardens, making lavish use of arches, stucco work,
glazed wall tiles (azulejos), and ornamental calligraphy. They also
introduced new crops to Spain, such as oranges and rice. By the 11th
century, the caliphate had collapsed into 30 taifas (splinter states) and
the northern Christian kingdoms were reconquering parts of Moorish
Spain. In 1492, the Catholic Monarchs took Granada, its last stronghold.
Though many Muslims were expelled from Spain following the
Reconquest, some were employed to build new churches and palaces
for the Christian rulers. Known as Mudéjares (the name literally means
“those permitted to stay”), these craftsmen developed a hybrid
Christian-Islamic style that survived into the 18th century.
Player on a green at one of Marbella’s
high-profile golf courses



310-311_EW_Europe.indd 311 14/07/16 10:15 am

312  THE IBERIAN PENINSULA


Granada: the Alhambra

A magical use of space, light, water, and
decoration characterizes this most sensual
piece of architecture. It was built under Ismail I,
Yusuf I, and Muhammad V, caliphs when the
Nasrid dynasty (1238– 1492) ruled Granada.
Seeking to belie an image of waning power,
they created their idea of paradise on earth.
Modest materials were used (plaster, timber,
and tiles), but they were superbly worked.
Although the Alhambra suffered decay and . Salón de Embajadores
pillage, including an attempt by Napoleon’s The ceiling of this sumptuous
throne room, built
troops to blow it up, it has been restored and between 1334 and
its delicate craftsmanship still dazzles the eye. 1354, represents the
seven heavens of the
Muslim cosmos.
. Patio de
Arrayanes
This pool, set amid
myrtle hedges and
graceful arcades,
reflects light into the
surrounding halls.




















Entrance



KEY
1 Patio de Machuca 5 Jardín de Lindaraja sumptuous feasts. Beautiful
2 Patio del Mexuar council 6 Baños Reales ceiling paintings on leather, from
cham ber, was completed in the 14th century, depict tales of
1365, and is where the reigning 7 Sala de las Dos Hermanas, hunting and chivalry.
sultan listened to the peti tions with its spectacular honeycomb 9 Puerta de la Rawda
dome, is regarded as the
of his subjects and met with ultimate example of Spanish
his ministers. 0 The Palace of Charles V
Islamic architecture. (1526) houses a collection
3 Sala de la Barca of Spanish Islamic art,
8 Sala de los Reyes is a great
4 Washington Irving’s banqueting hall was used to whose highlight is the
apartments hold extrava gant parties and Alhambra vase.
For hotels and restaurants see pp330–32 and pp333–5


312-313_EW_Europe.indd 312 14/07/16 10:15 am

SP AIN  313



Palacio del Partal VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
A pavilion with an
arched portico and Practical Information
a tower is all that For the Alhambra and Generalife.
remains of this Tel 958-02 79 71. Open 8:30am–
palace, the oldest 8pm daily (mid-Oct–mid-Mar: to
building in the 6pm). Night visits: mid-Mar–mid-
Alhambra.
Oct: 9–10:30pm Tue–Thu, Fri &
Sat; 10–11:30pm Wed & Sat; mid-
Oct–mid-Mar: 8–9:30pm Fri & Sat.
& (reservations are essential).
8 ∑ alhambra-patronato.es
or alhambra-tickets.es
Transport
@ C3, C4.














. Sala de los Abencerrajes
This hall takes its name from a
noble family – rivals of the last
Nasrid ruler, Boabdil. Legend claims
he had the family massacred while
they attended a banquet here. The
geometrical ceiling was inspired by
Pythagoras’ theorem.



. Patio de los Leones
Built by Muhammad V, this
patio is lined with arcades
sup ported by 124 slender
marble columns. At its
center, a fountain rests on
12 stocky marble lions.

Plan of the Alhambra To the Generalife
Main gate


Key
Palacios Nazaríes
(shown above)
Palace of Charles V
The Alhambra complex includes Alcazaba
the Casas Reales, the 13th-century
Alcazaba, the 16th-century Palace of Gardens
Charles V, and the Gen eralife (see p310), Iglesia de Santa Maria
which is located just off the map. Other buildings





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314  THE IBERIAN PENINSULA


The small Mudéjar-style
synagogue (c.1315) has
decorative plasterwork with
Hebrew script. Nearby, the
Museo Taurino, a bullfighting
museum, contains a replica
of the tomb of Manolete, a
famous matador, and the hide
of the bull that killed him.
A Roman bridge spanning
the Río Guadalquivir links the
old town to the 14th-century
Torre de la Calahorra. This
defensive tower houses a
small museum depicting
life in 10th-century Córdoba.
In the newer part of the city,
the Museo Arqueológico
displays Roman and Moorish
artifacts. The Museo de Bellas
Artes contains sculptures by
local artist Mateo Inurria (1867–
1924) and paintings by Murillo
and Zurbarán. Other notable
buildings are the beautiful
17th-century Palacio de
Viana, filled with works of art,
and the handsome arcades of
The Puente Nuevo, spanning the deep Tajo gorge at Ronda the Plaza de la Corredera.
l Ronda de Toros and its bullfighting + Alcázar de los Reyes
Málaga. * 37,000. £ @ n Plaza museum, the Museo Taurino, Cristianos
de España 9 (95-287 12 72). attract aficionados from all Calle Caballerizas Reales s/n.
over the country. Tel 957-20 17 16. Open 8:30am–
Ronda sits on a massive 8:45pm Mon–Fri, 8:30am–4:30pm
rocky outcrop, straddling a P Plaza de Toros & Sat, 8:30am–2:30pm Sun.
precipitous limestone cleft. Museo Taurino Closed Jan 1, Dec 25. & (free
Because of its impregnable Calle Virgen de la Paz. Tel 952-87 41 8:30–9:30am Tue–Fri).
∑ alcazardelosreyescristianos.
position, it was one of the last 32. Open daily. & 7 cordoba.es
Moorish bastions, finally falling
to the Christians in 1485. z Córdoba
On the south side perches a x Seville
classic pueblo blanco – a white Córdoba. * 328,000. £ @
town – so-called because the n Plaza del Triunfo (902-20 17 74). See pp318–21.
houses are whitewashed in
the Moorish tradition. With its glorious mosque and
Among Ronda’s historic pretty Moorish patios, Córdoba
buildings is the Palacio is northern Andalusia’s star
Mondragón, adorned with attraction. In the 10th century,
original Moorish mosaics. The the city enjoyed a golden age
facade of the 18th-century as the western capital of the
Palacio del Marqués de Islamic empire.
Salvatierra is decorated with Córdoba’s most impressive
images of South American Moorish monument is the
Indians. From the Casa del mighty Mezquita (see pp316–17).
Rey Moro, built on the site To the west of its towering
of a Moorish palace, 365 walls, the Alcázar de los Reyes
steps lead down to the river. Cristianos, in the old Jewish
Across the Puente Nuevo, quarter, is a stunning
or “New Bridge,” which spans 14th-century palace-fortress
the deep Tajo gorge, is the built by Alfonso XI. The Catholic
modern town, and the site of Monarchs stayed here during
one of Spain’s oldest bullrings. their campaign to wrest Water gardens at the Alcázar de los Reyes
Inaugurated in 1785, the Plaza Granada from Moorish rule. Cristianos, Córdoba
For hotels and restaurants see pp330–32 and pp333–5


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SP AIN  315

b Cádiz
Cádiz. * 123,200. £ @ n Paseo
de Canalejas (956-24 10 01) or Avda
Ramón de Carranza (956-28 56 01).
Surrounded almost entirely
by water, Cádiz lays claim to
being Europe’s oldest city. After
the Catholic reconquest, the
city prospered on wealth
brought from the New World.
Modern Cádiz is a busy port,
with a pleasant waterfront, while
the old town has narrow alleys
and lively markets. The Baroque
and Neoclassical cathedral, with
Marshes and sand dunes of the Parque Nacional de Doñana its dome of golden-yellow tiles,
is one of Spain’s largest.
c Parque Nacional are held on Thursdays. The Museo de Cádiz
de Doñana On the Plaza de San has one of the largest
Juan, the 18th-century art collections in
Huelva & Sevilla. n 959-43 96 27. Palacio de Penmartín Andalusia, and arch-
Park interior: Open summer: Mon–Sat; houses the Centro aeological exhibits chart
winter: Tue–Sun. Tel 959-43 04 32 for
reservations. & 7 Andaluz de Flamenco, with the history of the city.
exhibitions on this music The 18th-century
Doñana National Park is ranked and dance tradition. The Oratorio de San Felipe
among Europe’s greatest 11th-century Alcázar Neri has been a shrine to
wetlands, comprising more encompasses a well- liberalism since 1812,
than 100,000 hectares (247,105 preserved mosque, now a when a provisional
acres) of marshes and sand church. Just to the government
dunes. The area, officially north is the assembled in the
protected since 1969, was once cathedral. Its church to try to
a ducal hunting ground (coto). most famous establish Spain’s
A road runs through part treasure is, The Golden chalice from the treasury first constitutional
of the park, with information Sleeping Girl of Cádiz cathedral monarchy. The
points located along it. There by Zurbarán. Torre Tavira, an
are also several self-guided 18th-century watchtower with
walks on the park outskirts, but  Sherry Bodegas a camera obscura, offers
the interior can be visited on González Byass: Calle Manuel María spectacular views of the city.
official guided day tours only. González 12, Jerez. Tel 956-35 70 00.
Doñana is home to wild cattle, & 7 Pedro Domecq: Calle San E Museo de Cádiz
fallow and red deer, and the lynx Ildefonso 3, Jerez. Tel 956-15 15 00. Plaza de Mina. Tel 956-20 33 68.
– one of Europe’s rarest mammals. Open Mon–Sat. & Open Tue–Sun. Closed public hols. 7
The greater flamingo and the
rare imperial eagle can also be Tapas
seen. It is also a stopping place
for thousands of migratory birds. The light snacks known as tapas – and sometimes as pinchos –
originated in Andalusia in the 19th century as an
v Jerez de la accompaniment to sherry. The name derives from
a bartender’s practice of covering a glass with a
Frontera saucer, or tapa (cover), to keep out flies. The
custom progressed to a chunk of cheese
Cádiz. * 209,000. k £ @ or a few olives placed on a platter
n Alameda Cristina 7 (956-33 88 74). to serve with a drink. Today
∑ turismojerez.com
Olives tapas range from cold snacks
to elaborately prepared hot
Jerez is the capital of sherry dishes, generally eaten
production and many bodegas standing at the bar rather
(cellars) can be visited here than sitting at a table. Almost
including González Byass and every village in Spain has a
Pedro Domecq. Jamón serrano tapas bar. In the larger towns,
The city is also famous for its (salt-cured ham) it is customary to move from
Real Escuela Andaluza de Arte Patatas bravas (potatoes bar to bar, sampling the
Ecuestre, a school of equestrian in spicy tomato sauce) specialties of each.
skills. Public-dressage displays



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316  THE IBERIAN PENINSULA


Córdoba: the Mezquita

Córdoba’s great mosque, dating back 12
centuries, embodied the power of Islam on
the Iberian Peninsula. Abd al Rahman I
built the original mosque between 785
and 787. The building evolved over the
centuries, blending many architectural
forms. In the 10th century, al Hakam II
made some of the most lavish
additions, including the elaborate Patio de los Naranjos
mihrab (prayer niche) and the Orange trees grow in the courtyard where
maqsura (caliph’s enclosure). During the faithful washed before prayer.
the 16th century, a cathedral was
built in the heart of the mosque,
part of which was destroyed.




KEY
1 The Puerta de San Esteban
is set in a section of wall from an
earlier Visigothic church.
2 The Puerta del Perdón is a
Mudéjar-style entrance gate, built
during Christian rule in 1377.
Penitents were pardoned here.
3 Torre del Alminar is a bell tower,
93 m (305 ft) high, built on the
site of the original minaret. Steep
steps lead to the top for a fine
view of the city.
4 Capilla Mayor
5 The cathedral choir has
Churrigueresque – excessive
Baroque-style – stalls carved by
Pedro Duque Cornejo in 1758.
6 Capilla Real


Expansion of
the Mezquita
Abd al Rahman I built the
original mosque. Extensions
were added by Abd al
Rahman II, al Hakam II,
and al Mansur.
Key to Additions
Original mosque (785–787)
Added by Abd al Rahman II (833)
Added by al Hakam II (c.961)
Added by al Mansur (c.987–90)
Patio de los Naranjos


For hotels and restaurants see pp330–32 and pp333–5


316-317_EW_Europe.indd 316 14/07/16 10:44 am

SP AIN  317



Cathedral VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
Part of the mosque
was destroyed to Practical Information
accommodate the C/Cardenal Herrero 1. Tel 957 47
cathedral, begun in 05 12. Open 10am–7pm Mon–Sat,
1523. Featuring an 8:30–11:30am, 3–7pm Sun (winter:
Italianate dome, it 8:30am–6pm Mon–Sat, 8:30–
was designed chiefly 11:30am & 3–6pm Sun). & (free
by members of the 8:30–9:30am Mon–Sat). 5 9:30am
Hernán Ruiz family.
Mon–Sat, noon & 1:30pm Sun. 7














. Arches and Pillars
More than 850 columns of granite, jasper,
and marble support the roof, creating a
dazzling visual effect. Many were taken
from Roman and Visigothic buildings.




























. Mihrab
This prayer niche,
richly ornamented, . Capilla de Villaviciosa
held a gilded copy The first Christian chapel was
of the Koran. The worn built in the mosque in 1371
flagstones indicate where by Mudéjar craftsmen (see
pilgrims circled it seven p311). Its multi-lobed arches
times on their knees. are stunning.




316-317_EW_Europe.indd 317 14/07/16 10:44 am

318  THE IBERIAN PENINSULA


x Street by Street: Seville

The maze of narrow streets that makes up the Barrio de
Santa Cruz represents Seville at its most romantic and
compact. This is a good place to begin an exploration of
the city, since many of the best-known sights are located
here. As well as the expected souvenir shops, tapas bars,
and strolling guitarists, there are plenty of picturesque
alleys, hidden plazas, and flower-decked patios to reward Plaza Virgen de los Reyes
This delightful square, which is often
the casual wanderer. Once a Jewish ghetto, this area boasts lined with horse-drawn carriages,
many restored buildings, with characteristic window grilles has an early 20th-century fountain
that are now a harmonious mix of upscale residences and by José Lafita.
tourist accommodations. Good restaurants and bars
make the area well worth an evening visit.
Palacio Arzobispal,
the 18th-century
Archbishop’s Palace,
is still used by M AT E O S G A G O
Seville’s clergy. P L A Z A V I R G E N
R O D R I G O C A R O
D E L O S R E Y E S
Bus station



A V
E
N
I D
A
P L A Z A
D ROMERO MURUBE
E

D E L T R I U N F O
L
A
C
O
N
S
T
I
T
. Cathedral and U
La Giralda C I
This huge Gothic cathedral O N
and its Moorish bell tower
are Seville’s most popular Convento de la
sights (see p320). Encarnación S A N T O T O M A S
(1591) M I G U E L M A N A R A


Archivo de Indias Plaza del Triunfo
Built in the 16th The square was built
century as a merchants’ to celebrate the city’s
exchange, the Archive survival of the great
of the Indies now earthquake of 1755.
houses documents and In the center is a
maps relating to the modern statue of
Spanish colonization the Virgin Mary.
of the Americas.
For hotels and restaurants see pp330–32 and pp333–5


318-319_EW_Europe.indd 318 14/07/16 10:44 am

SE VILLE  319



Calle Mateos Gago VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
This street is filled with
souvenir stores and tapas Practical Information
bars. Bar Giralda at No.2, Sevilla. * 704,000.
whose vaults are the remains n Avda de la Constitución 21
of a Moorish bath, is popular (95-478 75 78), Plaza del Triunfo
for its wide variety of tapas. (95-421 00 05). Archivo de Indias
Tel 95-450 05 28.
Transport
Train k 4 km (2.5 miles) NE. £ Santa
station Justa, Avda de Kansas City. @
Plaza de Armas, Calle de Arjona.
The Plaza Santa
Cruz is adorned by
X I M E N E Z E N C I S O S A N TA T E R E S A cross from 1692.
M E S O N D E L M O R O
an ornate iron
M AT E O S G A G O P L A Z A
R O D R I G O C A R O J A M E R D A N A R E I N O S O L O P E D E R U E D A S TA C R U Z







ROMERO MURUBE PL DONA ELVIRA G L O R I A J U S T I N O D E N E V E
C A L L E J O N D E L A G U A





V
I D S U S O N A P I M I E N TA Hospital de los Venerables
A The 17th-century home
for elderly priests has a
splendidly restored
Baroque church (see p320).

Callejón del Agua
This whitewashed alley-
way offers glimpses of
enchanting plant-filled
patios, such as the one
pictured here.





0 meters 50
. Real Alcázar 0 yards 50
Seville’s Royal Palace is a
rewarding combination
of exquisite Mudéjar (see Key
p311) craftsmanship, regal
grandeur, and landscaped Suggested route
gardens (see p320).




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320  THE IBERIAN PENINSULA


palaces that had been built in gardens of the Real Alcázar
the 12th century by the Moors. provide a delightful refuge
Craftsmen from Granada and from the bustle of Seville.
Toledo created a stunning
complex of Mudéjar patios and P Hospital de los
halls, the Palacio Pedro I, now Venerables
at the heart of Seville’s Real Plaza de los Venerables 8. Tel 95-456
Alcázar. Successive monarchs 26 96. Open 10am–2pm, 4–8pm daily.
added their own distinguishing Closed Jan 1, Good Friday, Dec 25.
marks: Isabel I dispatched & (free Sun pm). 8 7
navigators to explore the This late 17th-century home
New World from her Casa de for elderly priests has been
Contratación, while Carlos I restored as a cultural center,
(the Holy Roman Emperor its upper floors, cellar, and
Charles V) had grandiose, richly infirmary serving as exhibition
decorated apartments built. galleries. The Hospital church
A star feature of the palace is a showcase of Baroque
is the Salón de Embajadores splendors, with frescoes by both
(Ambassadors’ Hall), with its Juan de Valdés Leal and his son
The mighty Giralda bell tower, rising above dazzling dome of carved and Lucas Valdés. There are also fine
the Gothic cathedral gilded, interlaced wood. The sculptures by Pedro Roldán.
hall overlooks the Patio de
R Cathedral and La Giralda las Doncellas (Patio of the P Torre del Oro
Avda de la Constitución. Tel 954-21 49 Maidens), which boasts some Paseo de Cristóbal Colón. Tel 95-422
71. Open 11am–5pm Mon–Sat exquisite plasterwork and has 24 19. Open 9:30am–7pm Mon–Fri,
(Jul & Aug: 9:30am–4pm), 2:30–6pm been restored to its function 10:30am–7pm Sat & Sun. Closed Aug.
Sun. & 7 except Giralda tower. as a “floating garden,” as it & except Mon.
Seville’s cathedral occupies the was during Pedro I’s reign. The Moors built the Torre del Oro
site of a great mosque, built by Laid out with terraces, (Tower of Gold) as a defensive
the Almohads in the late 12th fountains, and pavilions, the lookout in 1220. Its turret was not
century. La Giralda, its huge bell
tower, and the beautiful Patio
de los Naranjos, which is filled
with orange trees, are a legacy
of this Moorish structure. Work
on the Christian cathedral
began in 1401. The bronze
spheres on the original Moorish
minaret were replaced by
Christian symbols, though the
Giralda did not assume its
present appearance until 1568.
Today, it is crowned by a bronze
sculpture portraying Faith. This
weathervane (giraldillo) has
given the tower its name.
Visitors can climb La Giralda
for superb views of the city.
The cathedral houses many
fine works of art, including the
stunning high-altar reredos,
with its 44 gilded reliefs, carved
by Spanish and Flemish
sculptors in 1482–1564.
P Real Alcázar
Patio de Banderas. Tel 95-450 23 24.
Open 9:30am–7pm daily (Oct–Mar: to
5pm); Jul & Aug: also open at night for
concerts. Closed Jan 1 & 6, Good Fri,
Sep 25. & ∑ alcazarsevilla.org
In 1364, Pedro I of Castile
ordered the construction of
a royal residence within the Fresco by Juan de Valdés Leal in the Hospital de los Venerables
For hotels and restaurants see pp330–32 and pp333–5


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SE VILLE  321


Flamenco
More than just a dance,
flamenco is an artistic
expression of the joys and
sorrows of life. A uniquely
Andalusian art, its origins are
hard to trace. Gypsies may
have been the main creators
of the art, mixing their own
Indian-influenced culture
with existing Moorish and
Arcaded arena of the Plaza de Toros de la Maestranza Andalusian folklore, and with
Jewish and Christian music.
added until 1760. The gold in the for this park. Its most extravagant Gypsies were already living in
tower’s name may refer to the feature is the semicircular Plaza Andalusia by the early Middle
gilded azulejos (ceramic tiles) that de España, designed by Aníbal Ages, but only in the 18th
once clad its walls, or to treasures González. At the center of the century did flamenco begin
from the Americas unloaded park, the Pabellón Mudéjar to develop into its present
here. It now houses the Museo houses the Museo de Artes y form. There are many styles
Marítimo, which exhibits Costumbres Populares, with of cante (song) from different
maritime maps and antiques. displays of traditional parts of Andalusia,
Andalusian folk arts. but no strict
P Plaza de Toros de la choreo graphy –
Maestranza P Setas de Sevilla dancers
Paseo de Cristóbal Colón 12. (Metropol Parasol) (bailaores)
Tel 95-421 03 15. Open daily. Plaza de la Encarnación. Tel 606-63 improvise from
Closed for bullfights, Dec 25. & 8 52 14. Open daily. basic movements,
following the
Built between 1761 and 1881, ∑ setasdesevilla.com rhythm of the guitar
Seville’s famous bullring seats These huge mushroom- and their feelings.
up to 14,000 spectators. Visitors shaped parasols, designed by
can take a guided tour and German architect Jürgen
explore the small museum. Mayer, are topped with a Flamenco dancer
Between Easter and October, mirador (viewing platform) (bailaora)
bullfights are held on Sunday and panoramic restaurant,
evening. Tickets can be bought while underneath there
at the bullring or online at www. are Roman and medieval
plazadetoroslamaestranza.com. ruins (visible in the Antiquarium
museum), shops, and a market.
E Museo de Bellas Artes
Plaza del Museo 9. Tel 955-54 29 42. R Monasterio de Santa buried in the crypt of its church
Open 10am–8:30pm Tue–Sat, María de las Cuevas between 1507 and 1542. The
10am–5pm Sun. & 7 Calle Americo Vespucio 2, Isla de monastery stands at the heart
The magnificent Convento de la Cartuja. Tel 95-503 70 70. Open of the Isla de Cartuja, the site of
la Merced Calzada houses one 11am–9pm Tue–Sat, Sun am. & (free Expo ’92, and also houses the
of Spain’s best art museums. Sat). 8 by prior appt only. 7 Museo de Arte Contemporáneo,
Delightful tree-filled patios, This 15th-century Carthusian with its collection of Spanish and
colorful azulejos, and a church monastery was inhabited by international art. The Isla Mágica
with a beautiful Baroque painted monks until 1836. Columbus lay theme park is also nearby.
ceiling make this a wonderful
setting for the fine works of art.
The museum’s collection of
Spanish art and sculpture –
which covers all periods from
the medieval to the modern –
focuses on the work of the
Seville School artists. Among
the star attractions are
masterpieces by Murillo, Juan
de Valdés Leal, and Zurbarán.
Y Parque María Luisa
In 1893, Princess María Luisa
donated part of the grounds of
the Palacio San Telmo to the city Seville’s dazzling Plaza de España in the Parque María Luisa




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322  THE IBERIAN PENINSULA


Practical Information price and ask the sales assistant
for a formulario (tax-exemption
Spain’s tourist-information service is efficient and extensive, form). On leaving Spain, you
with offices in most towns providing advice on lodgings, must ask customs to stamp your
restaurants, and local events. In August, many businesses formulario (this must be within
close and roads are busy. It is worth finding out whether six months of the purchase).
You receive the refund by mail
local fiestas will coincide with your visit, as while these are or on your credit card account.
enjoyable, they may also cause closures. Free Wi-Fi is available
in many hotels and cafés, and some major cities offer free Personal Security
Wi-Fi hotspots. When changing money, credit cards often
offer the best exchange rate and can be used in cash Violent crime is rare in Spain.
dispensers. The Spanish lunch hour lasts from 2pm to 5pm. Petty theft is the main problem
in the cities, especially Madrid,
Barcelona, and Seville, where
When to Visit
to 2pm, and, usually, reopen visitors should be extra vigilant.
August is Spain’s busiest vacation from 5pm to 8pm. The main
month. Spanish locals on holiday museums stay open through Police
and millions of foreign tourists lunch. Most charge for entry.
flock to the coast. Easter is a Some churches may only be There are essentially three types
good time to visit: temperatures opened for services. of police force in Spain. The
are more bearable, especially in In smaller towns, churches, Guardia Civil (National Guard)
the south, the countryside is in castles, and other sights are mainly police rural areas and
bloom, and some of the often kept locked. The key, impose fines for traffic offenses.
country’s most important fiestas available on request, will be The Policía Nacional operate
take place. In the mountains the lodged in a neighboring house, in larger towns. They are
ski season is from mid- in the town hall, or perhaps with replaced by a regional force,
December until early March. the local bar owners. the Ertzaintza, in the Basque
country, and by the Mossos
d’Esquadra in Catalonia. The
Tourist Information Visa Requirements Policía Local, also called Policía
and Customs
All major cities and towns have a Municipal or Guardia Urbana,
tourist information office (oficina Citizens of the EU, Switzerland, operate independently in
de turismo), which will provide Iceland, and Norway do not each town and have a branch
town plans, lists of hotels and require a visa for entry to Spain. for city traffic control.
restaurants, and details of local A list of entry requirements – All three services will direct
activities. There is a Spanish available from Spanish you to the relevant authority
National Tourist Office in embassies – specifies other in the event of an incident
several large cities worldwide; countries, including the US, requiring police help.
the website is a useful resource. Canada, Australia, and New
Zealand, whose nationals
do not need a visa for visits Emergency Services
Opening Hours of less than 90 days. There is one pan-European
Most monuments and Non-EU residents can reclaim emergency telephone number
museums in Spain close on IVA (sales tax) on some single for police, fire, and ambulance:
Mondays. On other days, they items at stores participating in call 112. There are also
are generally open from 10am the scheme. You pay the full telephone numbers for
The Climate of Spain
MADRID SEVILLE
Spain’s large landmass, with
its mountain ranges and the 35/95
influences of the Atlantic °C/ºF 32/90 °C/ºF
and Mediterranean, accounts 21/70 25/77
for a varied climate. The 17/63 16/61 20/68 18/64 13/55 16/61
eastern and southern coasts 8/46 10/50 10/50
and islands have mild winters; 5/41 0/32 5/41
however, winter temperatures 8 12 6.5 5 6 8 4.5 2
in the interior often fall below hrs hrs hrs hrs hrs hrs hrs hrs
freezing. Summers everywhere 48 11 53 39 50 58 55 55
are hot, except in upland areas. mm mm mm mm mm mm mm mm
Northern Spain is the wettest
area all year round. month Apr Jul Oct Jan month Apr Jul Oct Jan






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SP AIN  323



individual emergency services. providing a booking service for Visa and Mastercard
For emergency medical treat­ accessible hotels. are accepted in most places.
ment, call 112 for an ambulance,
or go to the nearest hospital Language and Etiquette Communications
emergency room (urgencias).
The Spanish commonly greet Several service­providers in
and say goodbye to strangers at Spain, including Movistar,
Health Issues
bus stops and in stores and Vodafone, Orange, and Yoigo,
Spanish pharmacists have wide other public places. People offer mobile and internet
responsibilities. They can advise shake hands or kiss each other services. You can buy SIMs or
and, in certain cases, prescribe on the cheek when introduced purchase pay­as­you­go
without consulting a doctor and whenever they meet. In mobiles at El Corte Inglés stores,
(antibiotics not included). In a Catalonia and the Basque branches of the Phone House,
non­emergency, a farmaceútico country, regional languages at their own shops, or online.
is a good person to see first. are as much in use as the Airports, most hotels, and
It is usually easy to find one national tongue, which is several cafés and bars offer free
who speaks English. Castilian Spanish. or inexpensive Wi­Fi for those
The pharmacy (farmacia) sign traveling with their own devices.
is a green or red illuminated There are very few phone boxes,
cross. Those open at night are Banking and Currency but you can make inexpensive
listed in the windows of all the The Spanish unit of currency international phone calls from
local pharmacies. is the euro (see p23). Generally, public telephone offices, which
banks are open from 8am to are called locutorios and usually
2pm Monday to Friday. Some found near train stations.
Facilities for the Disabled branches are also open on The Spanish postal service,
The Spanish National Tourist Thursday afternoon. Some Correos, provides an efficient
Office has a number of useful have a foreign exchange desk service, and there are also
publications in English for with the sign Cambio or courier firms for urgent
disabled travelers, many of Extranjero. Take some form communications. The main
which are down loadable from of ID when changing money. Correos offices open from
their website. Most city tourist Bureaux de change charge 8:30am to 8:30pm Monday to
websites also offer a range of higher rates of commission, Friday and from 9am to 2pm
useful materials for disabled but are open longer hours. Saturday. Conveniently, you will
travelers. Viajes Ilunion offers The best rate is to be found find that stamps for letters and
accessible vacations in by withdrawing cash from postcards can also be bought
Spain and abroad, as well as an ATM or paying by credit card. from an estanco.
DIRECTORY
Spanish National Tourist Offices Floor, 28046 Madrid. Police
Tourist Offices in Spain Tel 91­353 66 00. Tel 112.
Abroad
Barcelona Canada Ambulance
Canada Plaça de Catalunya 17–S, Torre Espacio, Paseo Tel 112.
2 Bloor West, 08002 Barcelona. de la Castellana 259D,
28046 Madrid.
Suite 3402, Toronto, Tel 93­285 38 34. Tel 91­382 84 00. Fire Brigade
ON, M4W 3E2. Madrid UK (Bomberos)
Tel 416­961 31 31. Plaza Mayor 27, 28012 Torre Espacio, Paseo Tel 112.
UK Madrid. Tel 91­454 44 10. de la Castellana 259D, Facilities for the
∑ esmadrid.com 28046 Madrid.
64 North Row, Tel 91­714 63 00. Disabled
London W1K 7DE. Seville
Tel 020­7317 2011. Avenida de la US Spanish National
Constitución 21b, Calle Serrano 75,
∑ spain.info 28006 Madrid. Tourist Office
41004 Seville. ∑ spain.info/en/
US Tel 95­478 75 78. Tel 91­587 22 00. informacion-practica/
60 East 42nd St, Emergency turismo-accesible
Suite 5300 (53rd floor), Embassies Numbers
New York, NY 10165­0039. Australia Viajes Ilunion
Emergency:
Tel 212­265 8822. Torre Espacio, Paseo de All Services Tel 90­220 00 11.
∑ spain.info la Castellana 259D, 24th Tel 112 (most large cities). ∑ viajes.ilunion.com




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324  THE IBERIAN PENINSULA

Travel Information bus tours are run by Madrid
City Tour.
Spain has an increasingly efficient transportation system. All the Barcelona’s metro system
major cities and islands have airports, and flights from around generally runs from 5am to
the globe arrive at those of Madrid and Barcelona. Both the road midnight; on Fridays it stays
and rail networks were greatly improved during the 1980s and open until 2am, and all night on
Saturdays. There are various
in the run-up to the Barcelona Olympics in 1992. Intercity rail types of travelcard available,
services are reliable, but buses are a faster and more frequent valid for bus, metro, and the
option between smaller towns. In much of rural Spain, however, FGC (Ferrocarrils de la Generalitat
public transportation is limited and a car is the most practical de Catalunya) suburban train
solution for getting around. Ferries connect mainland Spain network. The city buses in
Barcelona are usually colored
with the Balearic Islands, Morocco, and ports in the UK.
white and red. The Nitbus (night
bus) runs from around 10pm to
5am; and the Aerobús provides
Flying to Spain Domestic Flights an excellent service between
Of the several US airlines serving Most of Spain’s domestic flights the Plaça de Catalunya and the
Spain, American Airlines and have traditionally been two terminals of the airport.
Delta Air Lines operate direct operated by Iberia, however, Sightseeing tours in
flights to both Madrid and this monopoly has been Barcelona are operated by
Barcelona, while United Airlines broken to encourage Bus Turístic on three routes
flies to Barcelona. Air Europa and competition. The two main from Plaça de Catalunya.
Iberia, the Spanish national air­ alternative Spanish carriers are
line, both fly to New York. Air Europa and Vueling.
Iberia also offers scheduled The most frequent shuttle Rail Travel
flights daily to Madrid and service is the Puente Aéreo, run Spain offers many options
Barcelona from all Western between Barcelona and Madrid for users of the state railroad
European capitals, including by Iberia. Flights run at least 12 RENFE. The high­speed
Dublin, which is served by the times a day. A ticket machine services are the intercity TALGO
affiliated Air Nostrum. Its partner allows passengers to buy trains and the AVE service
British Airways has scheduled tickets up to 15 minutes before between Madrid, Seville, and
flights to Madrid and Barcelona departure. The journey usually Málaga via Córdoba; from
and several other cities daily from takes 50 minutes. Madrid to Barcelona via
London Heathrow or Gatwick. Air Europa services between Zaragoza and Lleida; and from
Monarch and Air Europa both Madrid and the regional Barcelona to Seville or Málaga.
run services between several capitals are not as frequent as Tickets for these are the most
airports in the UK and Spain. the Puente Aéreo. Air services expensive and may be bought
From Australasia, the best within the Canary Islands are at train stations from the
connections to Spain are via run by Binter, which is affiliated taquilla (ticket office), obtained
Dubai, Doha, Bangkok, Frankfurt, to Iberia. The low­cost from travel agents, or ordered
and London. company Ryanair also serves via the RENFE website or
many destinations in Spain. telephone booking line.
The largo recorrido (long­
Charters and Low-cost distance trains) and regionales
Airlines Getting Around Madrid y cercanías (regional and
and Barcelona
Charter flights from the UK serve local) services are frequent,
airports such as Málaga, Alicante, The metro is the quickest and inexpensive, but slower.
and Girona. These can be least expensive way to travel Tickets for local travel may
inexpensive, but are less reliable around Madrid. It is open from be purchased from machines
and have limited schedules. Make 6am to 1:30am and consists of at the station.
sure your agent is ABTA bonded 11 color­coded lines, plus the In Madrid the major stations
before booking. Special deals are Ópera­Príncipe Pío link and a for long­distance trains are
often offered in the winter and service to the airport. Day Atocha and Chamartín.
may include accom modations. buses run from 6am until Barcelona’s principal train
Low­cost airline easyJet serves midnight; night buses continue station is Sants; Sagrera Station,
Madrid, Barcelona, Mallorca, operating until 6am and leave which opens in 2016, is the
Málaga, Alicante, and Ibiza from from the Plaza de Cibeles. main hub for high­speed trains.
London Luton, Stansted, and A Metrobús ticket, valid for ten Regional rail companies
Gatwick airports, Liverpool, and trips on the buses and metro, operate in three areas of Spain.
Bristol, while Ryanair flies from can be bought at any metro Catalonia and Valencia each
London Stansted and other UK station, as well as from has its own Ferrocarrils de la
regional airports to mainland newsstands and estancos Generalitat, known respectively
and island Spain. (tobacconists). Sightseeing as the FGC and the FGV. The




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SP AIN  325


Basque country has the ET throughout Spain. Other drivers to carry at all times
(Eusko Trenbideale). Iberrail companies operate in valid insurance and registration
holidays offer rail-plus-hotel particular regions. Tickets and documents, a driver’s license,
deals for traveling between information for long-distance and ID such as a passport.
Spanish cities. RENFE operates travel are available at main bus
two luxury train services similar stations and from travel agents. Ferry Services
to the Orient Express: El
Transcántabrico, which operates Traveling by Road Two car ferry routes link the
in northern Spain, and El Spanish mainland with the
Andalus, which offers itineraries Spain’s fastest roads are its UK. Brittany Ferries sails from
in Andalucia, Extremadura, and autopistas. They are normally Plymouth and Portsmouth
northern Spain. They also offer dual carriageways subject to in the UK to Santander in
other tourist trains, such as El peajes (tolls). Autovías are similar, Cantabria, and from Portsmouth
Expreso de la Robla and the but have no tolls. Smaller roads to Bilbao. The crossings take
Tren de Cervantes, themed are less well kept but are a more more than 24 hours. Advance
around landmarks significant to relaxed way to see rural Spain. reservations are essential in
the writer in Alcala de Henares. All the major international the summer.
car rental companies are Trasmediterránea runs
represented in Spain. The best car ferry services from
Long-distance Buses
deals are accessed through the Barcelona and Valencia on
Spain has no national long- companies’ websites. There are the Spanish mainland to the
distance bus company. The also fly-drive package deals, Balearic Islands. The crossing
largest private company, which include car rental. takes about eight hours. The
Alsa, offers a variety of bus Gasolina (gas) is priced by the same company also operates
tours and sightseeing trips liter. Spanish law requires frequent inter-island services.
DIRECTORY
Iberia and Monarch Bus Companies Car Rental
Affiliates ∑ monarch.co.uk
Alsa Avis
International and Ryanair Tel 902-42 22 42. Tel 902-18 08 54.
domestic flights ∑ ryanair.com ∑ alsa.es Tel 0808-284 0014 (UK).
Tel 901-100 500. United Airlines ∑ avis.com
Tel 02-036 843 774 (UK). ∑ united.com Eurolines Budget
Tel 800-772 4642 (US). Vueling Tel 902-40 50 40. Tel 902-11 25 85.
∑ iberia.com ∑ budget.es
Tel 807-001 717. Tel 0871-781 81 77 (UK).
Other Airlines ∑ vueling.com ∑ eurolines.es Europcar
Madrid Tours ∑ eurolines.com Tel 902-10 50 30.
Air Europa Tel 0871-384 10 87 (UK).
Tel 902-401 501. Madrid City Tour Bus Stations ∑ europcar.com
∑ aireuropa.com ∑ madridcitytour.es Hertz
Madrid
American Airlines Rail Travel Estación Sur (for whole Tel 902-40 24 05.
Tel 902-054 654. ET Tel 0870-844 8844 (UK).
Tel 800-433 7300 (US). Tel 902-54 32 10. of Spain). ∑ hertz.es
∑ aa.com Tel 91-468 42 00. ∑ hertz.co.uk
∑ euskotren.es
British Airways FGC Intercambiador des Ferry Services
Tel 912-754 779. Tel 93-205 15 15. Autobuses Brittany Ferries
Tel 08444-930 787 (UK). ∑ fgc.cat (for northern Spain). Tel 902-10 81 47.
Tel 800-247 92 97 (US). FGV Tel 902-42 22 42. Tel 01752-648 000 (UK).
∑ britishairways.com
Tel 961-92 40 00. Barcelona ∑ brittany-ferries.com
Delta Air Lines ∑ fgv.es Estació del Nord. Trasmediterránea
Tel 902-81 08 72. Iberrail Tel 902-45 46 45.
Tel 800-241 41 41 (US). ∑ iberrail.es Tel 902-26 06 06. Tel 0844-576 8845 (UK).
∑ delta.com Seville ∑ trasmediterranea.es
RENFE
easyJet Tel 902-32 03 20. Estación Plaza de Armas.
∑ easyjet.com ∑ renfe.es Tel 902-45 05 50.





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326  THE IBERIAN PENINSULA

Shopping although the best fish is
often to be found on the
Shopping in Spain is a pleasurable activity, particularly if you local market stands.
approach it in a leisurely way, punctuating it with frequent For fruit and vegetables, a
breaks for coffee. In small, family-run shops especially, people frutería or verdulería will have
will go out of their way to fulfill your smallest request. Markets better produce, because they
stock only what is in season.
sell the freshest of produce and quality wines can be found at Hardware stores are called
almost any grocer. Leatherwork is still highly regarded among ferreterías. Librerías are in fact
Spain’s many traditional crafts. Spanish design has come to bookshops, not libraries, and
the forefront in both fashion and decor. papelerías are stationers.
Anything you buy as a regalo
(gift) will be gift-wrapped on
Opening Hours
designers can be found in and request. When you buy flowers
Stores usually open at 10am, around the Passeig de Gràcia, from a floristería, the assistant
close at 2pm, and reopen from including Santa Eulàlia, which will expect to arrange them.
5pm to 8pm. Bakeries generally offers all the top international
open early, at around 8am. brands along with its own Markets
Supermarkets and department luxury fashion line.
stores stay open over lunchtime. Victorio & Lucchino in Seville Every large town has a daily
Rural markets are held in the sells clothes with a distinctly market (mercado), open from
morning only. In some regions, Andalusian style. 9am to 2pm, and from 5pm to
Sunday trading is just limited to 8pm. Small towns have one or
the bakeries, pastelerías (pastry Leather Goods more market days a week.
stores), and newspaper kiosks, Markets usually have the best
but in many tourist resorts Leather accessories and shoes fresh produce, but they sell all
stores open on Sunday. are a popular purchase and there types of food, including frutos
is a wide range in terms of quality secos (dried fruits) and seasonal
and price. It is the practise in mid- produce, such as mushrooms,
Larger Stores
range stores for customers to soft fruit, and game. There are
The hipermercados (superstores) choose from the selection in the also usually other types of
are sited outside towns and can window and give the sales assis- goods on sale, such as flowers,
often be found by following tant the code number indicated hardware, and clothes.
signs to the centro comercial. and the talla (size) required. If Flea markets (rastros) are held
The best known are Carrefour, you want an all-leather shoe, everywhere in Spain, but the
Alcampo, and Hipercor. look for cuero, the hide label largest – known as El Rastro –
Spain’s leading department mark. Lupo is a long-established is in Madrid, and is held on
store is El Corte Inglés. It has Barcelona firm famous for its Sundays and public holidays.
branches in all cities and in luxurious leather bags. Prices on the clothes, records,
the larger regional towns. Leather clothes and bags of antiques, and other items sold
Major seasonal sales are all kinds are usually of good here can be bargained down.
advertised by the word Rebajas, quality and well designed. Madrid also has a coin, stamp,
displayed in store windows. The prestigious Loewe hand- and postcard market held on
bags are sold in retail outlets Sundays in the Plaza Mayor.
in Madrid and other major The Encants Vells, the flea
Clothing Stores
Spanish cities. Madrid’s Paco market in Barcelona, is held
The larger cities naturally offer Martínez also offers stylish bags on Mondays, Wednesdays,
the widest selection of clothing at affordable prices. Fridays, and Saturdays. The
stores, but Spanish designer food market, La Boqueria, is
labels can be found even in Specialty Stores open daily on La Rambla.
the smaller towns.
The Calle de Serrano and Calle Specialty stores are often run Food and Drink
de José Ortega y Gasset are the by generations of the same
main streets for fashionwear in family. Panaderías (also called Spanish regional specialties
Madrid, while the work of young hornos) are bakeries selling are often better value when
designers is mostly located in bread and bollos (sweet buns). bought where they are made.
the Chueca district. Adolfo Cakes and pastries are sold Each region produces its own
Domínguez is the doyen of in pastelerías. type of sausage. In Burgos,
Madrid’s minimalist look. The Fresh meat can be bought in for example, morcilla (blood
adventurous will appreciate the a carnicería, but a charcutería sausage) is made, while a fiery
designs of Agatha Ruiz de la will have the best selection of red chorizo comes from
Prada. In Barcelona, inter- cold, cooked meats, and also Guijuelo, Extremadura.
national fashion labels and sells a wide selection of cheeses. Andalusia is renowned for olives
clothes by international Pescaderías sell fish and shellfish, and olive oil, and Galicia for its




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SP AIN  327


cheeses. Among the preserves good selection of hand-painted traditional hat makers in Spain
and sweets of Spain, Seville fans. Guitarras de Luthier sells is the Sombrerería Herederos
marmalade is famous. The handmade guitars. Some de J. Russi in Córdoba.
delicious almond-based traditional crafts originated with
nougat, called turrón, is eaten the Moors, such as Toledo’s
at Christmas, but can be filigree metalwork and the Household and
Kitchen Goods
bought all year from food azulejos (ceramic tiles) of
stores around the country. Andalusia. Cántaro, near the Department stores have a good
Wine can be bought by the Plaza de España in Madrid, La selection of household goods,
liter at a bodega (local wine Caixa de Fang in Barcelona, but the ferreterías (small
store). It can also be purchased and Ceramica Triana in Seville hardware shops) often have
directly from vineyards (also all sell ceramics. the more authentic selection.
called bodegas), but you may Catalan-style espadrilles are Traditional pottery, such as red
need an appointment. another popular buy. La Manual clay cazuelas (dishes) that can
Spain’s most famous vine- Alpargatera in Barcelona makes be used in the oven and on
growing regions are La Rioja them by hand on the premises the hob are inexpensive. Paella
and Navarra, Penedés, home and sells them in a wide range pans have always been made
of cava (sparkling wine), of colors. of iron or enamel, but now
Valdepeñas, Ribera del Duero, Lace from the villages of the come in stainless steel or with
and Jerez, the sherry region. Sierra de Gata in Extremadura non-stick finishes. Table linen
and Galicia’s Costa da Morte is is often a bargain on market
prized. Spanish linen and silk stands. Spanish lighting design
Traditional Crafts shawls can be purchased from is widely admired and sold
Authentic items, such as guitars, Borca, off the Puerta del Sol in in lampisterías. Traditional
fans, castanets, and flamenco Madrid. In Barcelona, L’Arca de wrought-iron goods, such
shoes, are sold in major cities. l’Avia sells antique silk and lace. as candlesticks and door
Madrid’s Casa de Diego has a One of the most celebrated hardware, are always popular.
DIRECTORY
Department Victorio & Lucchino Traditional Crafts La Manual
Stores Calle de las Sierpes 87, L’Arca de l’Avia Alpargatera
El Corte Inglés Seville. Carrer dels Banys Nous 20, Calle d’Avinyó 7,
Calle de Preciados 1–3, Tel 95-422 79 51. Barcelona. Barcelona.
Madrid. Tel 93-302 15 98. Tel 93-301 01 72.
Tel 90-112 21 22. Leather Goods
∑ elcorteingles.es Loewe Borca Sombrerería
Plaça Catalunya 14, Calle de Serrano 26, Calle del Marqués Viudo Herederos de J. Russi
Barcelona. Madrid. de Pontejos 2, Madrid. Cde Cardenas 1, Córdoba.
Tel 93-306 38 00. Tel 91-577 60 56. Tel 91-532 61 53. Tel 957-47 79 53.
Plaza Duque de la Victoria Plaza Nueva 12, Seville. La Caixa de Fang
10, Seville. Calle Freneria 1,
Tel 95-459 70 00. Tel 95-422 52 53. Barcelona.
Lupo
Clothing Stores Tel 93-315 17 04.
Passeig de Gràcia 124,
Adolfo Domínguez Barcelona. Cántaro
Calle de Serrano 5, Tel 935-19 40 00. Calle de la Flor
Madrid. Paco Martínez Baja 8, Madrid.
Tel 91-577 47 44. Tel 91-547 95 14.
Passeig de Gràcia 32, Calle Mayor 6, Madrid. Casa de Diego
Barcelona. Tel 915-23 81 82. Calle Mesonero Romanos
Tel 93-487 41 70.
Markets 4, Madrid.
Agatha Ruiz de la La Boqueria Tel 91-531 02 23.
Prada Ceramica Triana
Calle de Serrano 27, La Rambla 100, Barcelona. Calle Antillano Campos
Madrid. Encants Vells 14, Seville.
Tel 91-319 05 01. Plaça de les Glòries Tel 954-33 21 79.
Santa Eulàlia Catalanes, Barcelona.
Passeig de Gràcia 93, Guitarras de Luthier
Barcelona. El Rastro Calle Doctor Mata 1,
Tel 932-15 06 74. Calle de la Ribera de Madrid.
∑ santaeulalia.com Curtidores, Madrid. Tel 91-468 19 54.





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328  THE IBERIAN PENINSULA

Entertainment Classical Music
In Madrid, the two concert halls
The Spanish take particular pride in their cultural heritage. of the Auditorio Nacional de
As well as the traditional art form of flamenco dance and the Música host international
three-act drama of the bullfight (corrida), the theaters and classical music performances,
opera houses of Spanish cities provide one of the best ways and the Orquesta Nacional
de España plays here regularly.
of sharing the experience of Spain. Many activities begin well The Teatro Real de Madrid
after midnight, and taking full advantage of the afternoon also hosts important classical
siesta is a good way to prepare for the evening ahead. Spain’s music concerts.
mountain ranges, woodlands, and extensive coast offer great Barcelona’s Modernista
potential for scenic tours and sports vacations as alternatives Palau de la Música Catalana,
designed by architect Lluís
to lounging on the beach.
Domènech i Montaner, is one
of the world’s most beautiful
reservations office (taquilla) of concert halls.
Entertainment Listings the bullring. The TEYCI agency
For Spanish speakers, the most sells tickets for bullfights, but Bullfighting
complete guide to what’s going charges up to 20 percent
on in Madrid and Barcelona commission. Bullfighting continues to be a
can be found in the weekly Time popular spectacle throughout
Out magazine (published Opera and Zarzuela the country, but it is not for the
Wednesday and available A visit to the Spanish capital squeamish. The Plaza de Toros
digitally) or the Guía del Ocio would not be complete without de Las Ventas in Madrid is the
(published on Fridays and also spending a night at the most famous bullring in the
available free with El País on zarzuela, Madrid’s own variety world. It holds corridas every
Friday). Daily newspapers such of comic opera. The best Sunday during the bullfighting
as El Mundo and ABC have productions are those staged at season. During the May Fiestas
weekly entertainment the Teatro de la Zarzuela. Other de San Isidro, fights are held
supplements. The free monthly venues include Los Teatros del every day. Some of Spain’s most
English-language publication, Canal and the Teatro Victoria. important fights are held at the
In Madrid, can be found in Several other theaters offer Maestranza bullring in Seville
bookstores and Irish bars. zarzuela productions during the Feria de Abril (a
throughout the summer. spring fair held during the
The best place to see national fortnight after Easter). Since
Seasons and Tickets
and international opera, 2012, bullfights have been
The main concert and theater including Madrid’s own opera banned in Catalonia. Most
season in Spain runs from company, is the Teatro Real de towns in Andalusia have their
September to June. Madrid. The Teatro Calderón own bullrings: Ronda, Córdoba,
In Madrid and Barcelona, the also hosts excellent classical and and Granada are among the
easiest ways to acquire tickets modern opera productions. best-known venues.
for the theater, concerts, and Barcelona’s opera house is the
opera are by telephone or Gran Teatre del Liceu.
online. Online ticketing Flamenco
agencies include Entradas.com A spontaneous musical art form,
Ticketea, and Ticketmaster. Theater flamenco has its roots in the
Other agencies are El Corte Madrid’s most prestigious gypsy culture of Andalusia.
Inglés and FNAC. theaters are the Teatro de la However, many of the best
In Barcelona, theater tickets Comedia and the Teatro María exponents are now based
can also be bought from ATMs Guerrero. The former stages in the capital.
at branches of the Catalunya classic works by Spanish In Madrid, Casa Patas is still
Caixa and from Tiquet Rambles playwrights, while the latter the best place to catch the raw
at the Palau de la Virreina, which hosts foreign productions and power of genuine flamenco
also has last-minute reduced modern Spanish drama. The guitar and cante singing. Both
price tickets and a good website. Teatro Muñoz Seca and Teatro music and dance can be
Tickets for special events can be Reina Victoria put on comedy enjoyed at Café de Chinitas.
bought from tourist offices. productions. Madrid’s festival Flamenco is performed late
In other parts of Spain, your of classical and modern drama at night with most venues
hotel or local tourist office will (Festival de Otoño a Primavera) offering dinner and a show. In
provide details of events and takes place between October Andalusia, visitors can enjoy
where to purchase tickets. and June. top-quality performances in
Tickets for bullfights, generally In Barcelona, the Teatre the tablaos (flamenco bars)
held between mid-March and Nacional de Catalunya is a fine of the Barrio de Santa Cruz
mid-October, are sold at the showcase for Catalan drama. in Seville, and listen to soul-




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SP AIN  329

Outdoor Activities
stirring songs in the bars of and canoeing, a wide variety
another of the city’s districts, For information on horseback of watersports is possible in
Triana. One of the best-known riding and pony trekking in Spain. Jet skis and windsurfing
flamenco venues in Granada most regions, contact the Real equipment are available to
is in the gypsy caves of Federación Hípica Española or rent in many coastal resorts.
Sacromonte (see p310). local Spanish tourist offices. Information about sailing can
Picturesque minor roads be obtained from the Real
in many parts of Spain are Federación Española de Vela.
Special Interest Vacations excellent for cycle-touring. Spain has an abundance of
All tourist offices in Spain can Walking tours are also popular. top-quality golf courses. The
provide details of special The Federación Española de Real Federación Española de
interest vacations. Cookery, Montaña y Escalada can Golf will give locations and
wine, and painting courses, as provide infor mation about more detailed information. In
well as history and archaeology climbing and many other most tourist areas, there are
tours, are popular. Nature lovers mountain sports. tennis courts for rental by the
and hikers head for Spain’s Spain’s most popular resorts hour. Travel agents arrange
many national parks. for downhill skiing are the Vall tennis holidays for enthusiasts.
Information about Spanish d’Aran in Catalonia and the More information is available
language courses is provided by Sierra Nevada, near Granada. from the Real Federación
the Instituto Cervantes. As well as white-water rafting Española de Tenis.
DIRECTORY
Tickets Teatro de la Zarzuela Bullfighting Real Federación
Calle de Jovellanos 4, Española de Golf
Entradas.com Madrid. Tel 91-524 54 00. Plaza de Toros
Tel 902-48 84 88 (Madrid). de la Maestranza Calle Arroyo del Monte 5,
Theater Paseo de Cristóbal Cólon 28035 Madrid.
El Corte Inglés 12, Seville.
Tel 902-22 44 11 (Madrid). Teatre Nacional Tel 954-22 45 77. Tel 915-55 26 82.
∑ elcorteingles.es de Catalunya Plaza de Toros ∑ rfegolf.es
TEYCI Plaça de les Arts 1, de las Ventas Real Federación
Madrid. Barcelona. Calle de Alcalá 237, Española de Tenis
∑ ticketstoros.com Tel 93-306 57 00. Madrid. Tel 917-24 02 51. Passeig Olimpic 17,
Teatro de la Comedia
Ticketea Calle del Príncipe 14, Flamenco 08038 Barcelona.
Tel 902 044 226 Madrid. Tel 91-521 49 31. Tel 93-200 53 55.
∑ ticketea.com Café de Chinitas ∑ rfet.es
Teatro María Calle de Torija 7, Madrid.
Tiquet Rambles Guerrero Tel 91-547 15 02. Real Federación
La Rambla 99, Barcelona. Calle de Tamayo y Baus 4, Casa Patas Española de Vela
∑ tiquetrambles.
Madrid. Tel 91-310 94 31. Calle de Cañizares 10, Calle Luis Salazar 9,
bcn.cat Madrid. Tel 91-369 04 96.
Teatro Muñoz Seca 28002 Madrid.
Opera and Plaza del Carmen 1, Special Interest Tel 91-519 50 08.
Zarzuela Madrid. Tel 91-523 21 28. Vacations ∑ rfev.es
Teatro Reina Victoria
Gran Teatre Instituto Cervantes Real Federación
del Liceu Carrera de San Jerónimo Calle de Alcalá 49, Hípica Española
24, Madrid.
La Rambla 51, Barcelona. 28014 Madrid.
Tel 91-369 22 88. Tel 91-436 76 00. Calle Monte Esquinza 28,
Tel 93-485 99 00.
UK: 102 Eaton Square, 28010 Madrid.
Los Teatros Classical Music London SW1W 9AN. Tel 91-436 42 00.
del Canal Auditorio Nacional Tel 020-7235 0353.
Calle Cea Bermúdez 1, de Música
Madrid. Tel 913-08 99 99. Outdoor
Calle del Príncipe de Activities
Teatro Real Vergara 146, Madrid.
de Madrid Tel 91-337 01 40. Federación Española
Plaza de Oriente, Madrid. Palau de la Música de Montaña y
Tel 90-224 48 48. Escalada
Catalana Calle Floridablanca 84,
Teatro Victoria Carrer de Palau de la 08015 Barcelona.
Calle de las Tres Cruces 8, Musica 4–6, Barcelona. Tel 93-426 42 67.
Madrid. Tel 91-521 83 81. Tel 932-95 72 00. ∑ fedme.es


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330  SP AIN

Where to Stay

OLD MADRID: Las Meninas € Price Guide
Madrid Boutique Map B4 Prices are based on one night’s stay in
C/Campomanes 7, 28013 high season for a standard double room,
BOURBON MADRID: Tel 915-41 28 05 inclusive of service charges and taxes.
Hotel Liabeny €€ ∑ hotelmeninas.es € up to €130
Boutique Map C4 This small but delightful hotel on €€ €130 to €240
C/de la Salud 3, 28013 a tranquil street boasts rooms €€€ over €240
Tel 915-31 90 00 with polished wooden floors and
∑ liabeny.es charming contemporary decor. OLD TOWN: Bonic Barcelona €
Classically decorated rooms and B&B Map D4
a surprisingly long list of facilities OLD MADRID: Hotel Petit Josep Anselm Clavé 9, 08002
– including a sauna, restaurant, Palace Ducal €€ Tel 626-05 34 34
and gym – for the price. Historic Map D3 ∑ bonic-barcelona.com
C/Hortaleza 3, 28004 A little charmer of a B&B in the
BOURBON MADRID: Tel 915-21 10 43 Gothic Quarter, with individually
Iberostar Las Letras €€ ∑ hotelpetitpalaceducalchueca.com designed rooms, delightful staff,
Boutique Map D3 Set in a handsomely converted and lots of thoughtful extras.
Gran Vía 11, 28013 19th-century mansion, this is a
Tel 915-23 79 80 smart, modern hotel in the heart
∑ hoteldelasletras.com of the fashionable Chueca district. DK Choice
An elegant hotel with rooms OLD TOWN: Hotel Espanya €€
dedicated to famous writers, and Historic Map D3
a stunning rooftop bar and terrace Sant Pau 9–11, 08001
that offers tremendous views. Barcelona Tel 935-50 00 00
∑ hotelespanya.com.
€€
DK Choice EIXAMPLE: Hotel Actual Map D3 This beautifully restored
Modernista gem dates back
Boutique
BOURBON MADRID: Ritz €€€ Rosselló 238, 08008 to 1859, and combines
Luxury Map E4 Tel 935-52 05 50 contemporary furnishings with
Plaza de la Lealtad 5, 28014 ∑ hotelactual.com beautiful details, including
Tel 917-01 67 67 This chic hotel in the center has superb frescoes by Montaner.
∑ ritzmadrid.com minimalist rooms decorated in There is a fabulous restaurant,
A belle époque-style gem monochromatic tones. Free Wi-Fi. a bar with a fireplace, and a
located right next to the Prado, gorgeous roof terrace.
the Ritz boasts an opulent DK Choice
interior and the air of another
century; it even imposes a dress EIXAMPLE: Alma €€€ OLD TOWN: Hotel Mercer €€€
code after 11am. The superb Boutique Map F2 Luxury Map D3
bar is where luminaries such as Mallorca 271, 08008 Lledó 7, 08002
Dalí and Lorca once held court. Tel 932-16 44 90 Tel 933-10 74 80
Excellent service. ∑ almabarcelona.com ∑ mercerbarcelona.com
Housed in a fashionable Chic and intimate, this ravishing
townhouse, this hotel oozes hotel occupies a restored historic
OLD MADRID: Abracadabra € elegance and is famed for its mansion. Roof terrace with a
B&B service. Some of the original plunge pool, and a shaded patio.
C/Bailen 39, 28005 19th-century details have
Tel 656-85 97 84 been preserved, but the rooms OLD TOWN: Hotel Neri €€€
∑ abracadabrabandb.com are chic and minimalist. The Boutique Map D3
Friendly B&B near the Royal Palace. glorious secret courtyard Sant Sever 5, 08002
Rooms are furnished with esoteric and stylish roof terrace are Tel 933-04 06 55
objects from around the world. ideal spots for relaxing. ∑ hotelneri.com
Delicious, generous breakfasts. Enchanting hideaway, with a
superb restaurant, in an 18th-
century palace located in the
Gothic Quarter.
Northern Spain
BILBAO: Miró Hotel €€
Boutique
Alameda Mazarredo, 77, 48009
Tel 946-61 18 80
∑ mirohotelbilbao.com
Designed by Antonio Miró, this
minimalist luxury hotel is just steps
from the famous Guggenheim
Museum. There is a wellness
The regal interiors at the Ritz, Madrid center and a library on site.


330-335_EW_Europe.indd 330 14/07/16 3:03 pm

TR A VELERS ’ NEEDS  331

CANGAS DE ONIS: Parador CARTAGENA: La Manga
de Cangas de Onis €€ Club Principe Felipe €€
Historic Luxury
Villanueva de Cangas, 33550 La Manga Club, 30385 (Murcia)
(Asturias) Tel 968-33 12 34
Tel 985-84 94 02 ∑ lamangaclub.com
∑ parador.es Enjoy world-class facilities at this
A spectacular 8th-century exclusive Spanish village-style
monastery on the banks of the hotel, popular with celebrities.
Sella with a backdrop of the Picos.
DELTEBRE: Delta Hotel €
DK Choice B&B
Avda del Canal, Camí de la Illeta s/n,
ELCIEGO: Hotel Marqués 43580
de Riscal €€€ Tel 977-48 00 46
Boutique ∑ deltahotel.net
Calle Torrea, 1 Elciego 01340 The charming, family-run Delta
Tel 945-18 08 80 Hotel makes a great base for
∑ hotel-marquesderiscal.com exploring the Ebro delta. Elegant neutral tones set the scene at the
Designed by Frank Gehry, this Hotel Rector, Salamanca
hotel combines avant-garde DK Choice
design with an unbeatable BURGOS: La Puebla Hotel €
location in the heart of the FORTUNA: Balneario Leana € Historic
Basque wine country. Indulge Historic Calle de la Puebla 20, 09004
in grape-based spa treatments, Calle Balneario, 30630 (Murcia) Tel 947-20 00 11
a rooftop lounge and wine bar, Tel 902-44 44 10 ∑ hotellapuebla.com
and organized wine tours ∑ leana.es This stylish yet affordable option
through the adjacent vineyards. Renowned as Murcia’s oldest occupies a 19th-century
hotel – it was founded in 1860 townhouse in the historic center.
– this atmospheric health spa
FUENTE DÉ: Parador conjures up a unique aura of DK Choice
de Fuente Dé € the past. Modernist details
Modern include the original woodwork. SALAMANCA: Hotel Rector €€
Ctra de Espinama s/n, 39588 Boutique
Tel 942-73 66 51 Paseo Rector Esperabé 10, 37008
∑ parador.es MURCIA: Arco de San Juan € Tel 923-21 84 82
A modern parador, surrounded Historic ∑ hotelrector.com
by majestic mountains, with Plaza de Ceballos 10, 30003 Formerly the mansion of one of
high standards and amenities. Tel 968-21 04 55 Salamanca’s most distinguished
∑ arcosanjuan.com. families, this refined hotel
LAGUARDIA: Hospedería A converted palace, with a blend oozes elegance, but it also has
Los Parajes €€ of old and new furnishings. a personal touch. Considered
Spa to be one of Spain’s most
Mayor 46-48, 01300 VILAFAMÉS: El Jardin Vertical € celebrated boutique hotels.
Tel 945-62 11 30 Historic
∑ hospederiadelosparajes.com Calle Nou 15, 12192 (Castellón)
This stylish 15th-century hotel Tel 964-32 99 38 SEGOVIA: Hotel Don Felipe €
features a spa with a hammam ∑ eljardinvertical.com. Historic
and wine therapy. A refurbished 17th-century Calle de Daoiz 7, 40001
red-stone house set amid olive Tel 921-46 60 95
and almond groves. ∑ hoteldonfelipe.es
A converted mansion with
Catalonia & XÁTIVA: Hostería Mont Sant € modern facilities and a garden in
Eastern Spain Historic the heart of Segovia.
Subida al Castillo, 46800
ALICANTE: Eurostars Tel 962-27 50 81 SIGÜENZA: Molino de
Mediterranea Plaza €€ ∑ mont-sant.com Alcuneza €€
Luxury Beautiful mansion with citrus- Spa
Plaza del Ayuntamiento 6, 03002 filled gardens, spa, and restaurant. Carretera Alboreca, km 0.5, 19264
Tel 965-21 01 88 Tel 949-39 15 01
∑ eurostarsmediterraneaplaza.com ∑ molinodealcuneza.com
Close to a beach, this magnificently This idyllic hotel is well placed for
refurbished hotel offers great Central Spain exploring the medieval city. The
views from the roof terrace. modern spa includes a hammam.
ALMAGRO: Casa
BORREDÀ: Masia Jaume Coll € Grande Almagro € TOLEDO: Hotel Sercotel
Historic Historic San Juan de Los Reyes €€
Carretera C-26, km 169, 08619 C/Federico Relimpio 10, 13270 Luxury
Tel 938-23 90 95 Tel 671-49 62 88 C/Reyes Católicos 5, 45002
∑ masiajaumecoll.com ∑ casagrandealmagro.com Tel 925-28 35 35
There are just a handful of rooms A 16th-century property, close ∑ hotelsanjuandelosreyes.com
at this stone masia (farmhouse), to Plaza Mayor and the famous A four-star hotel in a converted
set in the stunning countryside. medieval theater. mill. Located in the historic center.
330-335_EW_Europe.indd 331 14/07/16 3:03 pm

332  SP AIN

GRANADA: Posada del Toro €
Inn The Balearic Islands
C/Elviria 25, 18010
Tel 958-22 73 33 FORMENTERA:
∑ posadadeltoro.com Hotel Entre Pinos €€
Renovated 19th-century inn B&B
blending old charm and modern Ctra La Mola, km 12.3, Es Calo, 07820
comforts. Wi-Fi in all rooms. Tel 971-32 70 19
∑ hostalentrepinos.com
GRANADA: Casa 1800 €€ A family-run hotel enclosed in
Boutique pine woods and close to the
C/Benalua 11, 18010 beaches of Es Caló and Arenal.
Tel 958-21 07 00 There is also a terrace bar, garden,
∑ hotelcasa1800granada.com and pool – where BBQs are held.
Romantic hotel in a 17th-century
mansion. Suites have king- or IBIZA: Mirador de Dalt Vila €€€
queen-sized beds and great Historic
vistas. Wi-Fi available. Plaza España 4, Ibiza City, 07800
The stylish Portixol, perched at the water’s Tel 971-30 30 45
edge, Mallorca MÁLAGA: Salles Hotel € ∑ hotelmiradoribiza.com
Luxury In Ibiza town’s upper village, this
TRUJILLO: NH Palacio de C/Marmoles 6, 29007 sumptuous 19th-century palace
Santa Marta €€ Tel 952-07 02 16 offers elegant rooms and suites,
Historic ∑ salleshotels.com plus top-notch services.
Ballesteros, 6, 10200 Well-appointed hotel with
Tel 927-65 91 90 modern and classically decorated
∑ nh-hotels.com rooms. The rooftop pool and DK Choice
This 16th-century palace terrace offer superb views. MALLORCA: Portixol €€€
blends traditional features with Boutique
modern-day comforts. SEVILLE: Cervantes €€ C/Sirena, Portixol, 07006
Boutique Tel 971-27 18 00
C/Cervantes 10, 41003 ∑ portixol.com
Tel 954-90 02 80 Located on a small fishing port
Southern Spain ∑ hotel-cervantes.com within walking distance of the
Set in a lovely 16th-century centre of Palma, Portixol has
ARCOS DE LA FRONTERA: property, with colored-glass been made over into one of
Casa Grande € ceilings and a tiled patio. Rooms the island’s most stylish and
Historic are individually decorated. best-loved hotels. A smooth
C/Maldonaldo 10, 11630 Scandinavian vibe reigns
Tel 956-70 39 30 throughout, with impeccable
∑ lacasagrande.net DK Choice service and a variety of rooms –
A gleaming 18th-century mansion SEVILLE: Casa from spacious suites to cool
with splendid views of the Numero Siete €€€ little overnighters.
countryside. Good breakfasts. Boutique
C/Virgenes 7, 41004
CÁDIZ: Hotel Playa Victoria €€ Tel 954-22 15 81 MENORCA:
Boutique ∑ casanumero7.com. Agroturisme Biniatram €
Glorieta Ingeniero La Cierva 4, 11010 Discover luxury in a historic Boutique
Tel 956-20 51 00 19th-century mansion right in Ctra Cala Morell s/n, Cala Morell,
∑ palafoxhoteles.com the heart of Seville’s evocative 07760
This eco-friendly seafront hotel old quarter. The decor at this Tel 971-38 31 13
features avant-garde interior guesthouse includes antiques ∑ biniatram.com
furnishings and decor. and family heirlooms. Relax in This rustic finca has eight suites,
the elegant lounge, and enjoy all with self-catering facilities.
CÓRDOBA: Hotel Maestre € the discreet but friendly service. Rooms are airy, and there is a
Inn large pool in the grounds.
Calle Romero Barros 4–6, 14003
Tel 957-47 24 10
∑ hotelmaestre.com
A classic hotel with a flower-filled
patio. Simple rooms and self-
catering apartments available.
CORTES DE LA FRONTERA :
Casa Rural €
Inn
Bda El Colmenar, 29490
Tel 952-15 30 46
∑ ahoraya.es
Chic, rural hideaway nestled
in a valley. Health facilities
include Turkish massages,
a spa, and clay treatments. An antique-filled room at Casa Rural, in Cortes de la Frontera
Key to Price Guide see page 330
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TR A VELERS ’ NEEDS  333

Where to Eat and Drink

Price Guide
Prices are for a three-course meal
for one, including half-bottle of
house wine, tax, and service.
€ under €40
€€ €40 to €55
€€€ over €55
such as botifarra amb seques
(country sausage with beans)
and seafood stews.
DK Choice
Colorful artworks in the dining room at Delic, Madrid OLD TOWN: Kaiku €
Mediterranean Map D4
dishes, fresh seafood, and Plaça del Mar 1, 08003
Madrid Catalan specialties, such as Tel 932-21 90 82 Closed Sun
calçots (leek-like vegetables). dinner; Mon; dinner mid-Sep–
BOURBON MADRID: mid-May; Aug
Bar Tomate €€ OLD MADRID: This deceptively simple-looking
Mediterranean Map D2 Bodegas La Ardosa € restaurant serves fantastic
C/Fernando el Santo 26, 28046 Tapas Map C3 dishes prepared with smoked
Tel 917-02 38 70 C/Colón 13, 28004 rice and homegrown
A fashionable spot for market- Tel 915-21 49 79 vegetables. Excellent desserts.
fresh dishes like tuna tartare An old-fashioned tapas bar to
with guacamole or hake with enjoy salmorejo cordobés – a
olives and tomatoes. The airy, chilled tomato and almond soup OLD TOWN: Lo de Flor €
loft-style interior has big wooden – and other traditional staples. Mediterranean
tables, perfect for groups. Carretes 18, 08001
Tel 934-42 38 53 Closed Tue; 2 wks
BOURBON MADRID: DK Choice Aug
Café Gijón €€ OLD MADRID: Delic € A romantic, rustic restaurant with
Café Map D3 Café Map B4 minimalist decor and a short but
C/Paseo de Recoletos 21, 28004 Plaza de la Paja s/n, 28005 well-chosen wine list. Dinner only.
Tel 915-21 54 25 Tel 913-64 54 50 Closed Mon &
One of Madrid’s famous literary Tue (for events) OLD TOWN: Senyor Parellada €
cafés, established in 1887. Gijón A hip favorite on a charming Mediterranean Map E3
serves classic dishes in a dining square, Delic is perfect for a lazy Argenteria 37, 08003
room or on the large terrace. breakfast or a tasty light lunch – Tel 933-10 50 94
try the leek tart or the Japanese Enjoy modern Mediterranean
BOURBON MADRID: dumplings. With wonderful fare in this elegant restaurant
La Casa del Abuelo €€ tarts, muffins, and brownies, it in a 19th-century townhouse.
Tapas Map C4 is also a great stop for tea and
C/Victoria 12, 28012 cake in the afternoon. Later in OLD TOWN: Pla €€
Tel 910-00 01 33 the evening, come for cocktails Fusion Map D3
La Casa del Abuelo (grandfather’s and occasional live music. Bellafila 5, 08002
house) specializes in delicious Tel 934-12 65 52 Closed lunch
prawns served with a local sweet This reliably good dinner spot
wine, plus a range of tasty tapas. OLD MADRID: Naïa €€ offers deftly prepared fusion
Modern Spanish Map B4 food in stylish surroundings.
BOURBON MADRID: Plaza de la Paja 3, 28005
Estado Puro €€ Tel 913-66 27 83 Closed Mon OLD TOWN: Dos Palillos €€€
Gourmet tapas Map C4 This chic bistro is popular with Fusion Map D3
Hotel NH Palacio de Tepa, Plaza del actors and artists. Dishes on offer Elisabets 9, 08001
Angel 9, 28012 might include a spicy monkfish Tel 933-04 05 13 Closed Tue & Wed
Tel 914-29 98 17 and scallop stew, or cod with lunch; Sun & Mon; late Dec–early
Super-stylish spot with gourmet oranges and black olives. Jan, 3 wks Aug
tapas by celebrated chef Paco Ultra-chic yet relaxed, this eatery
Roncero, who brilliantly reinvents with a Michelin star serves up
classic recipes, such as buñuelos spectacular Asian fusion tapas.
de bacalao (cod puffs). Barcelona
OLD TOWN: Koy Shunka €€€
BOURBON MADRID: OLD TOWN: Can Culleretes € Japanese Map D3
Paradis de Madrid €€ Traditional Regional Map D3 C/Copons 7, 08002
Mediterranean Map D4 Quintana 5, 08002 Tel 934-12 79 39 Closed Sun dinner;
C/Marqués de Cubas 14, 28014 Tel 933-17 30 22 Closed Sun dinner; Mon; Aug
Tel 914-29 73 03 Mon; mid-Jul–mid-Aug Arguably the best Japanese
At Paradis de Madrid, guests dine Barcelona’s oldest restaurant, Can restaurant in the city, Koy Shunka
on delicious Mediterranean rice Culleretes is great for classics boasts an adventurous menu.

330-335_EW_Europe.indd 333 14/07/16 3:03 pm

334  SP AIN

SEGOVIA: Restaurante
Northern Spain José María €€
Regional
LAREDO: La Marina Company € C/Cronista Lecea 11, 40001
Seafood Tel 921-46 11 11
Calle Zamanillo, 39770 Come here to savor chef José
Tel 942-60 63 35 María’s unique take on Segovian
The place for well-executed, staples. Try the roast suckling pig.
simple traditional fare. Excellent-
value set-menu options.
DK Choice
NOJA: Restaurante Sambal €€ ZAFRA: El Acebuche €
Fine Dining Regional
Calle el Arenal, 39180 Santa Marina, 3, 06300
Tel 942-63 15 31 Closed Oct–May: Tel 924-55 33 20
dinner Sun–Thu Housed in a historic building
Gourmet dining accompanied by with modern decor, this
fine views. Terrace seating in good restaurant offers traditional
weather and an excellent wine list. A much-coveted table at the Michelin- food with contemporary
starred Celler de Can Roca, Girona influences. The adjoining tapas
PAMPLONA: Café Bar Gaucho € bar serves lighter fare.
Regional VALENCIA: L’Estimat €€
Calle de Espoz y Mina 7, 31002 Seafood
Tel 948-22 50 73 Avda de Neptuno 16, 46011
This small, buzzing place is one Tel 963-71 10 18 Closed Mon & Sun
of Pamplona’s best pintxo (small dinner; Tue Southern Spain
snack) bars, with a huge variety One of the best seafood spots on
of flavorsome dishes. Cash only. the entire Valencia beachfront, ALGECIRAS: La Cabaña €
L’Estimat has a wide selection Traditional
SAN SEBASTIAN: Arzak €€€ of set menus, plus excellent à la Avda Agua Marina 5, 11203
Modern Regional carte choices. Tel 956-66 73 79 Closed Mon
Alcalde José Elosegui 273, 20015 Traditional restaurant with indoor
Tel 943-28 55 93 Closed Sun & Mon; ZARAGOZA: Palomeque € and terrace dining. Offerings
Jun 15–Jul 2 & Nov 2–26 Spanish include Galician-style octopus
The iconic eatery of living legend C/ Agustín Palomeque 11, 50004 and charcoal-grilled sirloin steaks.
Juan Mari Arzak and his daughter Tel 976-21 40 82 Closed Sun
Elena, who was voted the World’s Come here for tapas in the CÁDIZ: Ventorillo del Chato €€€
Best Female Chef in 2012. morning and more substantial Seafood
meals for lunch and dinner – all Via Augusta Julia, 11011
presented with sheer artistry. Tel 956-25 00 25 Closed Sun dinner
(except Aug)
Catalonia & This 18th-century seaside inn
Eastern Spain specializes in fish. Try the sea
Central Spain bream baked in a salt crust.
CÓRDOBA: Casa El Pisto
DK Choice CHINCHON: Mesón € Traditional €€
Cuevas del Vino
GIRONA: El Traditional Plaza San Miguel 1, 14002
Celler de Can Roca €€€ C/Benito Hortelano 13, 28370 Tel 957-47 01 66 Closed Sun
Modern Catalan Tel 918-94 02 06 Closed Sun dinner The regional specialties served
C/de Can Sunyer 48, 17007 This rustically decorated here include Iberian cured meats,
Tel 972-22 21 57 Closed Sun & restaurant in a 17th-century pisto (ratatouille), and manitas de
Mon; Apr 13–21, Aug, Dec 22–Jan 8 mill is a good bet for classic cerdo (pig’s trotters).
This temple to molecular dishes, such as lamb chops.
gastronomy boasts three DK Choice
Michelin stars and was voted NAVACERRADA: El Rumba €
the world's best restaurant Modern Spanish GRANADA: Mirador de
in 2015. It is run by the Roca Plaza del Doctor Gereda, 28491 Morayma €€
brothers. Expect unique Tel 918-56 04 05 Closed Mon Traditional
dishes, such as caramelized & Tue in winter C/Pianista Gracia Carrillo 2, 18010
olives served on a bonsai Wonderful charcoal-grilled meats, Tel 958-22 82 90 Closed Sun
tree, and oysters with and a sprinkling of modern dishes dinner
champagne. Reserve at least like scallops with citrus and sal- Located beside the patio of a
a year in advance. mor ejo (tomato and bread purée). private house, Mirador enjoys
marvelous city views. Few
SAN LORENZO DE EL restaurants offer such a winning
TARRAGONA: Sol-Ric €€ ESCORIAL: Casa Zaca €€ combination of idyllic setting
Mediterranean Traditional and quality cuisine. Try the
Avda Via Augusta 227, 43007 C/Embajadores 6, San Ildefonso, 40100 fresh remojón (salad with salt
Tel 977-23 20 32 Tel 921-47 00 87 cod, olives, and orange) and
Divine seafood and regional fare The town’s most elegant restaurant salmorejo (a thicker version
in an elegant setting, with a great features classic fare, such as cocido of gazpacho).
terrace for alfresco dining. (chickpea-based stew).
Key to Price Guide see page 333
330-335_EW_Europe.indd 334 14/07/16 3:03 pm

TR A VELERS ’ NEEDS  335

LA LINEA: La Marina €€ SEVILLE: Don Raimundo €€ MALLORCA: La Taberna
Seafood Traditional de la Bóveda €
Paseo Maritimo, La Atunara s/n, C/Argote del Molino 26, 41004 Tapas
11300 Tel 954-22 33 55 Paseo Sagrera 3, Palma, 07012
Tel 956-17 15 31 Closed Sun dinner; A sumptuously converted 17th- Tel 971-72 00 26 Closed Sun
Mon (Oct–Mar) century convent adorned with A perennially popular tapas bar
A large seaside eating spot with stone walls, vivid tiles, ceiling that also serves more substantial
nautical decor and great views. beams, and huge chandeliers. dishes hailing from Galicia and
Delicious clams and revuelto de It serves splendid langostinos Castilla. Pretty tiled interior.
gambas y ortiguillas (scrambled (giant prawns) and jabalí al horno
eggs with prawns and nettles). (oven-cooked wild boar). DK Choice
PUERTO DE SANTA MARIA: MALLORCA: Santi Taura €€
Casa Flores €€€ Regional
Traditional The Balearic Islands C/Joan Carles I 48, Lloseta, 07360
Ribera del Rio 9, 11500 Tel 971-51 46 22 Closed Mon
Tel 956-54 35 12 FORMENTERA: lunch, Sun dinner; Tue
This stalwart has traditional tiles Pequeña Isla €€ Local chef Santi Taura is a
and a bullfight motif decor to go Regional sort of food anthropologist –
with its menu of staple dishes, Avda El Pilar, 101 El Pilar de la Mola unearthing old recipes of the
such as langostinos (king prawns) Tel 971-32 70 68 islands, which he reinterprets
and percebes (goose barnacles). This unpretentious, reliable in this restaurant. Three weekly
Good lamb and pork dishes, too. restaurant in the hilltop village tasting menus are presented,
of La Mola serves all the local and with each course, the waiter,
RONDA: Tragabuches €€€ dishes, such as fish stew and or Santi himself, will explain the
Traditional dorado baked in salt. history and culture of the food.
C/Jose Aparicio 1, 29400
Tel 952-19 02 91 Closed Mon & DK Choice
Sun dinner; Jan MENORCA: Es Tast de na Silvia €€
Try the chef’s supreme ajo blanco IBIZA: La Paloma € Market Cuisine
(cold summer almond and garlic Mediterranean Avda Portixol 21–22, Cala ’N Bosch,
soup) at this Michelin-starred C/Can Pou 4, San Lorenzo, 07812 07760
restaurant. Scintillating menu de Tel 971-32 55 43 Closed dinner; Tel 971-38 78 95 Closed Wed;
degustación. Impeccable service. Mon (Mar, Apr & Oct); Nov–Feb Nov–Mar
A labor of love undertaken The best option among the
SEVILLE: Bodeguita by two families, La Paloma crowd of touristy restaurants. It
Casablanca € is a postcard-pretty garden serves top-notch cuisine based
Traditional restaurant in a renovated finca, on local and organic produce.
C/Adolfo Rodriguez Jurado 12, 41002 surrounded by fruit orchards.
Tel 954-22 47 14 Closed Sat dinner; On the menu are Italian- DK Choice
Sun; Aug inspired homemade dishes
Very popular with locals, this created with organic, local MENORCA: Sa Pedrera
is a traditional tapas bar with a ingredients. Pleasant service. d'es Pujol €€€
decor of bullfighting posters and Regional
barrel tables. First-rate mini menu. Camí des Pujol 14, Toret, 07711
IBIZA: Las Dos Lunas €€€ Sant Lluis
SEVILLE: Casa Robles €€ Italian/Mediterranean Tel 971-15 07 17 Closed mid-Sep–
Seafood Ctra Ibiza–San Antonio, mid-May: Mon–Thu
C/Alvarez Quintero 58, 41001 km 5, 07840 Enjoy panoramic views from
Tel 954-21 31 50 Tel 971-19 81 02 Closed Nov–Apr the terrace at this welcoming
A prize-winning spot with One of Ibiza’s most exclusive restaurant serving local dishes
elegant decor and great fish and restaurants, Las Dos Lunas is with a modern touch. The rice
shellfish dishes. Cathedral views often frequented by celebrities. dishes are particularly good, as
from the terrace, plus one of the Dishes are made with produce are the fine local wines.
best wine lists in Seville. from its own vegetable garden.












Murals and delicious banquettes add to the cozy feel at La Paloma, Ibiza




330-335_EW_Europe.indd 335 14/07/16 3:03 pm

336-339_EW_Europe.indd 336 14/07/16 10:16 am

THE IBERIAN PENINSULA  337

PORTUGAL


Most visitors to Portugal head for the sandy coves, pretty fishing villages, and
manicured golf courses of the Algarve. But beyond the south-coast resorts lies
the least-explored corner of Western Europe: a country of rugged landscapes,
ancient cities with proud traditions, and quiet rural backwaters.

Portugal appears to have no obvious most famous product – port wine, grown
geographical claim to nationhood, yet on steeply terraced vineyards hewn out of
the country has existed within borders mountainsides in the wild upper reaches
virtually unchanged for nearly 800 years, of the Douro valley.
making it one of the oldest nation states
in Europe. Its ten million people are History
proudly independent from, and distrustful The Romans, who arrived in 216 BC, called
of, neighboring Spain. the whole peninsula Hispania, but the
For a small country, the regions of region between the Douro and Tagus
Portugal are immensely varied. The rivers was named Lusitania after the
rural Minho and Trás-os-Montes in the Celtiberian tribe that lived there. After
north are the most traditional. Over the the collapse of the Roman Empire in the
last few decades, many inhabitants of 5th century, Hispania was overrun first
these neglected regions have been by Germanic tribes, then by Moors from
forced to emigrate in search of work. North Africa in 711.
At the same time, the Algarve, with Reconquest by the Christian kingdoms
its beautiful sandy beaches and warm of the north began in earnest in the 11th
Mediterranean climate, has become century. In the process, Portucale, a small
a vacation playground for Northern county of the kingdom of León and
Europeans, as well as the Portuguese Castile, was declared an independent
themselves. Lisbon, the capital, at the kingdom by its ruler, Afonso Henriques, in
mouth of the Tagus, is a cosmopolitan 1139. With the aid of English crusaders, he
metropolis with a rich cultural life. Oporto succeeded in recapturing Lisbon in 1147.
is a serious rival, especially in terms of The kingdom expanded south to the
commerce and industry, and is the center Algarve, and Portuguese sailors began to
for the production and export of Portugal’s explore the African coast and the Atlantic.




















Fishing boats on the beach at the popular Algarve resort of Albufeira
The picturesque white village of Azenhas do Mar, clinging to a clifftop overlooking the Atlanic Ocean



336-339_EW_Europe.indd 337 14/07/16 10:16 am

338  THE IBERIAN PENINSULA


Portugal’s golden age reached its zenith in Absolutists and Constitutionalists struggled
the reign of Manuel I, with Vasco da Gama’s for power, until, in 1910, a republican
voyage to India in 1498 and the discovery revolution overthrew the monarchy.
of Brazil in 1500. The era also produced The weakness of the economy led to a
the one uniquely Portuguese style of military coup in 1926 and a long period of
architecture: the Manueline. dictatorship. António
Trade with the East brought Salazar, who held power
great wealth, but military from 1932 to 1968, rid the
defeat in Morocco meant country of its debts, but
that the prosperity was poverty was wide spread
short-lived. Spain invaded in and all opposition
1580 and ruled Portugal for banned. The country was A Coruña
the next 60 years. a virtual recluse in the Vigo N120
After Portugal regained world community, the A52 Verín
independence, its fortunes prime concern of foreign A3 Bragança
were restored by gold from policy being the defense A28 A24 Chaves Zamora
Brazil. In the late 18th century, of its African and Asian Viana do A27 Braga N103 N2 IP4
Castelo
the chief minister, the Manuel I (reigned 1495–1521), who made vast colonies. The bloodless N13 A7
Marquês de Pombal, famous profits from Portugal’s spice trade Carnation Revolution A3 Guimarães Vila Real
for rebuilding Lisbon after ended the dictatorship Oporto A4
(Porto)
the 1755 earth quake, began to modernize in 1974, and full democracy was restored A1 Douro
the country. However, Napoleon’s invasion in 1976. Since its entry into the European A24 N102
in 1807 and the loss of Brazil in 1825 left Community in 1986, Portugal has enjoyed Aveiro A29 A25 Viseu A25 Salamanca
Portugal impoverished and divided. rapid economic growth and assumed the IP3
self-confident attitude of a modern ATLANTIC A17 N17 A23 Guarda
KEY DATES IN PORTUGUESE HISTORY OCEAN N109 Buçaco
Western European state.
Figueira Coimbra
139 BC Romans subdue the Lusitani da Foz Condeixa-a-Nova
415 AD Visigoths invade Iberian Peninsula Language and Culture N10 A17 POR TUGAL
711 Muslim army conquers Visigothic kingdom The family is the hub of Portuguese daily Batalha A1 Zêzere Castelo
A8
Branco
1139 Afonso Henriques declares himself king life and Catholicism remains a powerful (IC1) Tomar
1147 Afonso Henriques takes Lisbon force in rural communities. But the Alcobaça
1249 Conquest of Algarve complete country has come a long way since the IP6 N8 Tejo A23 N246 Cáceres
1385 João I defeats Castilians at Aljubarrota repression and self-censorship of the A8 Portalegre
1418 Prince Henry the Navigator made governor Salazar era. Urban Portugal, in particular, A1 A13 Santarém
of Algarve; sponsors expeditions to Africa presents a fairly emancipated and eagerly A6 Badajoz
1578 King Sebastião killed on ill-fated expedition N10 N18 N4 Mérida
to Morocco consumerist face to the world. LISBON N4
The national psyche encapsulates this (Lisboa) A6 Évora
1580 Philip II of Spain becomes king of Portugal Setúbal A2
1640 Restoration; Duke of Bragança crowned João IV; dualism in its struggle between a forward- See inset map N256
start of war of independence looking, realistic approach to life and the IC1 Sado IP2
1668 Spain recognizes Portugal’s independence dreamy, inward-looking side that finds IP8 Beja
1807 French invade; royal family flees to Brazil expression in the Portuguese notion of Sines N 260
1910 Revolution; Manuel II abdicates and flees to saudade, a melancholy yearning for Seville
England; republic proclaimed something lost or unattainable. N391 Guadiana S PAI N
1932 António Salazar becomes prime minister
The Portuguese language is a source of N120 IC1
1974 Carnation Revolution national pride, and visitors should not A2 N2 IC27
2000 Portugal joins European single currency assume that it is interchangeable with Portimão Albufeira A22 Huelva,
2011 The economic crisis forces Portugal in to a €78 Spanish. Portuguese people are also often Lagos Seville
billion bailout agreement with the EU and IMF Faro
2013 Government approves further austerity eager to speak English. Pride, too, is taken
measures to avoid a second international bailout in fado, the native musical tradition that
expresses saudade.




336-339_EW_Europe.indd 338 14/07/16 3:05 pm

POR TUGAL  339

Exploring Portugal

Portugal is a small country and there are fast road and train
links between the country’s four great cities: Lisbon, Coimbra,
Oporto, and Faro. Many of the most famous sights, such as
the royal palaces at Sintra and the monastery of Alcobaça,
make a good day’s outing from Lisbon. In the south, the great
attractions are the sandy beaches of the Algarve. Arriving
from the north is quite easy on the Lisbon-Algarve motorway,
but most visitors fly direct to Faro airport and once there,
traveling between the various resorts is no problem.
Sintra, dominated by the conical chimneys
A Coruña of the old royal palace
Vigo N120
A52
Verín
A3
A28 A24 Bragança Zamora KEY
Viana do A27 N103 Chaves Highway
Castelo Braga N2 IP4
A7
Major road
N13
A3 Guimarães Railroad
Vila Real
Oporto A4 International border
(Porto) Douro
A24
A1
A25 N102
Aveiro Viseu Salamanca
A29
A25
ATLANTIC A17 IP3 Guarda Sights at a w Portimão
Glance
OCEAN N109 Buçaco N17 A23 4 Tomar e Lagos
Figueira Coimbra The Lisbon Coast
da Foz Condeixa-a-Nova 5 Alcobaça (see inset map)
POR TUGAL 6 Batalha 1 Lisbon pp340–49
A17
N10
Batalha A1 Castelo 7 Coimbra
A8 Zêzere Branco 8 Oporto 2 Cascais
(IC1) 9 Évora 3 Sintra p350,
Alcobaça Tomar 0 Faro pp352–3
A23 N246 q Albufeira
IP6 N8 Tejo Portalegre Cáceres
A8 A13 Santarém
A1 Badajoz
A6
N18 N4 Mérida
N10
LISBON N4 The Lisbon Coast A1
(Lisboa) A6 Évora
Setúbal A2 A8 (IC1) Vila Franca
See inset map N256 de Xira
IC1 Sado IP2
IP8 Beja Sintra A9
N 260 j o
Sines T e
Seville A16
N391 Guadiana S PAI N A5 (Lisboa) A12
LISBON
N120 IC1 Cascais Estoril Barreiro
A2 N2 IC27 IC21
Portimão Albufeira A22 ATLANTIC A6
Lagos Huelva, OCEAN A33
Seville
Faro
Setúbal
0 km 15 Sesimbra
0 km 50
0 miles 15
0 miles 50
For hotels and restaurants see p362 and p363 For keys to symbols see back flap
336-339_EW_Europe.indd 339 14/07/16 3:05 pm

340  THE IBERIAN PENINSULA


1 Lisbon Vila Franca IP1- A1 (E1)
Lisbon
Airport IC2
Pontinha IP1-A1 (E1) Olivais
The capital of Portugal occupies a hilly site on Amadora IC1 Campo Oriente
the estuary of the Tagus. Over the centuries, the IC17 Grande
city expanded along the coast to Belém, the starting IC19 Benfica
point for the voyages of discovery in the 15th century, and PARQUE Xabregas
to the other side of the river, known as the Margem Sul. FLORESTAL Estefânia
It has now spread far inland, making the population Carnaxide IC15-A5 DE
of Greater Lisbon nearly two million. The historic center Cascais MONSANTO Graça
(the Baixa) is a small, low-lying area, pinned between the Portugal’s coat of arms in the treasury Alcântara Montijo
heights of the Alfama to the east and the Bairro Alto to of the Sé (cathedral) RU A R. S.A. DOS CAPUCHOS
the west. The city underwent a great cleanup for the RUA D E S A NTA D O N6 Belém T ej o Barreiro
Expo ’98 exhibition, especially in the old docks and R . B A R A T A S A L G U E I R O P A S S A D I Ç O Cacilhas
industrial areas along the waterfront. A V E N I D A MA RTA C. DOS MÁRTIRES DA PÁTRIA Porto IP1 - A2 (E1) Almada
RUA DA FÉ R. MANUEL B. SOUSA Brandão Setúbal N10 Seixal
Trafaria
R U A D O S A L I T R E RUA DO TELH AL
Sights at a Glance Avenida R. JULIO D. ANDRADE R U A D E
3 São Vicente de Fora JARDIM D A R U A D E S Ã 0 J OS É
4 Alfama BOTÂNICO A L E G R I A S Ã O LÁ Z A R O
5 Castelo de São Jorge R. SARAIVA DE CARVALH O R. DA ESCOLA POLITÉCNICA R . D A Martim GRAÇA
6 Sé T. DE S. QUITÉRIA L I B E R D A D E C A L Ç A D A D E S A N TA N A R U A D A P A L M A R . DOS LA G A R E S L A R G O D A R U A D A V E R ÓN I C A
Moniz
7 Praça do Comércio R. DA IMPRENSA NACIONAL R. DO MONTE OLIVETE M A R Ç A L R UA RUA DA GL ÓRIA RUA D. PORTAS DE S. ANTÃO G R A Ç A
8 Baixa R.DE S.JORGE B E R N A R D O R U A D E S Ã O R. CECILIO DE SOUSA RU A D. PEDRO V R . C AV A L E I R O S C . D E S AN T O AND R É
9 Bairro Alto R U A D A E ST R E LA E S T R E LA R. DOS PRAZERES R U A P A L M E I R A R U R U A DAS TAI PAS T. DAS MONICAS R. DA VOZ DO OPERÁRIO C. D. SÃO VICENTE CAMPO DE SANTA CLARA
q Museu Nacional de Arte JARDIM S Ã O RUA N. DA PIEDADE D E D A D A Restauradores R . MARTIM M ONIZ C O S T A D O C A S T E L O Engrácia R. DO PARAÍ S O
Santa
Antiga DA R U A Rossio ROSSIO Rossio RUA DOS C. DE FERRO
ESTRELA R U A R. NOVA DO LOUREIRO R O S A São (PRAÇA C. DE T IJ O L O
DOM
Roque
Santa
R . DA BET ESGA
Greater Lisbon D E RUA DE SANTO AMARO S Ã O B E N T O R. DA QUINTINHA R . D A A C A D E M IA PEDRO IV) ALFAMA RUA DE S Ã O T O M É R. D. E SCO L AS GERAIS Apolónia
D A S C I Ê N C I A S
Palácio de
Museu
(see inset map) AV. I N FA N T E S A NT O Basilica C A L Ç A D A D A E São Bento C R U A R. DA R. DA MISERICÓRDIA R. DA OLIVEIRA R. DE STA JUSTA R U A D O R EMÉDI OS Militar
R . E D U AR D O C O E L H O A D O S É
RUA
D OS
1 Oceanário de Lisboa da Estrela R. DA PAZ R U A D A C R U Z D O S P O IA I S B A IR R O U L O D A R. DAS GÁVEAS R. NOVA DA TRINIDADE Igreja do R U A DO C A R M O BAIXA C O S T A D O C A S T E L O R. DA REG UEIRA R. DO JARDIMD
R. D. CONDESSA
RUA
R U A D E B O R G E S C A R N E I R O S T R E L A
RUA A. ROSA RUA DO L I MOEIRO
R. DA ASSUNÇÃO S
Carmo
2 Museu Nacional R U A D E S ÃO C I R O A LT O R O S A BARROCA C H IA D O RUA DOS SAPATEIROS RUA DOS DOURADORES Apolónia
DA
T. DO COMBRO
do Azulejo R . D E B U E N O S A IR E S R . D E S Ã O B E N T O CALÇADA DO COMBRO R U A GA R R E T T R U A A U R E ( R . D O O U R O ) A N Q U E I R O S R U A D E S Ã O MA M E DE
R. TERR EIRO DO TRIGO
0 Museu Calouste R U A R. DAS FRANCESINHAS RUA DO POÇ O DOS NEGROS R. DO ALMADA R U A R. DO CRUCIFIXO PRATA RUA SÃO J OÃ O DA PR A Ç A
R. DA SAUDADE
R U A D A M A D A L E N A
Baixa-
Gulbenkian D O Q U E L H A S A V E N I D A D O O M C RUA D. CHAGAS R. D A EM EN D A F L O R E S Chiado R. SERPA I V E N S R. NO VA DO ALMADA AVENIDA INF AN TE DOM HENRIQUE
R U A D E S Ã O J U L I Ã O
RUA AUGUSTA
Teatro
Belém (see inset map) R . D A S P R A Ç A S L. DO B. BARÃO R U A D A B O A V I S T A D A S de São Museu do R U A D O C O M É R C I O RUA DOS BACALHOEIROS
Carlos
Chiado
w Museu Nacional R UA D E S Ã O D O M I N G O S R U A D E S . J O Ã O D A M ATA R . D A E S P E R A N Ç A R. DE SÃO R U A RUA DO ALECRIM R . V IT O R C O R D O N
PINTO
R . D O S R E M É D I O S
R U A DAS T R I N A S
R. DE SÃO FELIX
dos Coches R U A D E D O M L U Í S I R. DA MOEDA R. D. RIBEIRA PAULO R U A D O A R S E N A L e j o
Estação Fluvial
e Monument to the C. MARQUES DE ABRANTES A R L O S I NOVA AVENIDA DA RIBEIRA DAS NAUS Terreiro do Paço T
Discoveries L A P A C. RIBEIRO S A N TOS 24 DE J UL HO Terreiro
R U A DA S J A N EL A S V ER DES
r Mosteiro dos Jerónimos AVENI DA Santos Cais do Estação do Paço
pp348–9 RUA DO OLIVAL Sodré Fluvial R . P E R O DE ALENQ U E R
t Museu da Marinha MUNICIPAL ILHA DA MADEIRA AVENIDA DA M E M Ó R I A
ESTÁDIO
T. D A
DO
y Torre de Belém T e j o A V E N I D A R . G I L EA N E S RESTELO RUA 1 5 C A L Ç A D A D O G A L V Ã O AJUDA
BEL ÉM
R U A D E A L C O L E N A
AVENIDA DA TORRE DE BELÉM D O R E S T E L O
Getting Around RUA 4
Lisbon’s expanding metro system links RUA DOM FRANCISCO DE ALMEID A R. DOS JERÓNIMOS RUA 1
the north of the city with sights in the DE ALMEIDA
C A L Ç A D A D A A J U D A
center around Rossio square. Buses R U A S Ã O F. X A V I E R R U A D E B E L É M
cover the whole city and are the most R. DOM CRISTÓVÃO CORREIA VILA PRAÇA Belém
R. DOM LOURENÇO
DO
Centro
common form of public transportation. R. DE PEDROUÇOS RUA BARTOLOMEU DIAS Cultural IMPÉRIO Estação
DA GAMA
de Belém
Take the Santa Justa lift to reach the A V E N I D A D A Í N D I A Fluvial
Bairro Alto district and the 28 tram to A V E N I D A D E B R A S Í L I A de Belém
climb the steep hill up to the Alfama.
Belém is served by tram, train, and
bus. Taxis are inexpensive, but a taxi
ride can be alarming, as can any Tej o
Mosteiro dos Jerónimos, overlooking Praça do Império experience of driving in Lisbon.
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LISBON  341



Greater Lisbon Vila Franca IP1- A1 (E1)
Lisbon
Airport IC2
Pontinha IP1-A1 (E1) Olivais
Amadora IC1 Campo Oriente
Grande
Benfica
IC17
IC19
0 meters 500 PARQUE Xabregas
0 yards 500 Carnaxide FLORESTAL Estefânia
IC15-A5 DE
MONSANTO Graça
Cascais Montijo
Alcântara
RU A
N6 Belém T ej o Barreiro
R . B A R A T A S A L G U E I R O MA RTA P A S S A D I Ç O C. DOS MÁRTIRES DA PÁTRIA IP1 - A2 (E1) Cacilhas 0 km 2
R. S.A. DOS CAPUCHOS
D O
RUA D E S A NTA
Brandão
RUA DA FÉ R. MANUEL B. SOUSA Porto Setúbal Almada N10 Seixal 0 miles 2
Trafaria
R U A S A L I T R E
D O RUA DO TELH AL
A V E N I D A
Avenida R. JULIO D. ANDRADE R U A D E Key
R U A D A P A L M A
JARDIM D A R U A D E S Ã 0 J OS É S Ã O LÁ Z A R O Area of main map
BOTÂNICO
R. SARAIVA DE CARVALH O T. DE S. QUITÉRIA R. DA IMPRENSA NACIONAL M A R Ç A L R . D A A L E G R I A RUA DA GL ÓRIA C A L Ç A D A D E S A N TA N A Martim R . DOS LA G A R E S L A R G O D A G R A Ç A R U A D A V E R ÓN I C A
GRAÇA
Moniz
R. DA ESCOLA POLITÉCNICA
R UA
L I B E R D A D E
R.DE S.JORGE B E R N A R D O R U A D E R. DO MONTE OLIVETE S Ã O R. CECILIO DE SOUSA RU A D. PEDRO V DAS TAI PAS RUA D. PORTAS DE S. ANTÃO R . C AV A L E I R O S C . D E S AN T O AND R É CAMPO DE SANTA CLARA
E S T R E LA R. DOS PRAZERES R U A D E P A L M E I R A R U R U A Restauradores T. DAS MONICAS R. DA VOZ DO OPERÁRIO C. D. SÃO VICENTE
Santa
JARDIM S Ã O RUA N. DA PIEDADE D A D A R . MARTIM M ONIZ C O S T A D O C A S T E L O Engrácia R. DO PARAÍ S O
DA R U A Rossio ROSSIO Rossio RUA DOS C. DE FERRO
(PRAÇA
ESTRELA R U A D E RUA DE SANTO AMARO S Ã O B E N T O R. DA QUINTINHA R . D A A C A D E M IA R. NOVA DO LOUREIRO R O S A São PEDRO IV) C. DE T IJ O L O Apolónia
DOM
R U A D A E ST R E LA
Roque
Santa
AV. I N FA N T E S A NT O Basilica C A L Ç A D A D A E Palácio de R U A D A C R U Z D O S P O IA I S B A IR R O C U L O R U A R. DA R. DA MISERICÓRDIA R. NOVA DA TRINIDADE R. DA OLIVEIRA R U A DO C A R M O R. DE STA JUSTA BAIXA C O S T A
R . DA BET ESGA
ALFAMA
D A S C I Ê N C I A S
R . E D U AR D O C O E L H O A D O S É
São Bento
RUA
Militar
da Estrela
R. D. CONDESSA
Igreja do
R U A D O
RUA
Santa
R U A D E B O R G E S C A R N E I R O S T R E L A
RUA A. ROSA RUA DO L I MOEIRO
AVENIDA INF AN TE DOM HENRIQUE
R. DA ASSUNÇÃO S
R U A D E S ÃO C I R O R. DA PAZ A LT O R O S A D A BARROCA C H IA D O RUA DOS SAPATEIROS RUA DOS DOURADORES R. DA REG UEIRA R. DO JARDIMDO TABACO Apolónia
Carmo
R . D E B U E N O S A IR E S R U A R. DAS FRANCESINHAS RUA DO POÇ O DOS NEGROS R. DO ALMADA Baixa- R U A GA R R E T T R. NO VA DO ALMADA PRATA A N Q U E I R O S R U A D E S Ã O MA M E DE RUA SÃO J OÃ O DA PR A Ç A
R. DAS GÁVEAS
DA
T. DO COMBRO
R. TERR EIRO DO TRIGO
CALÇADA DO COMBRO
R. DA SAUDADE
R U A D A M A D A L E N A
R U A
R . D A S P R A Ç A S D O Q U E L H A S A V E N I D A D O O M C L. DO B. BARÃO R U A D A B O A V I S T A RUA D. CHAGAS R. D A EM EN D A F L O R E S D A S Chiado R. SERPA PINTO Museu do R U A D O C O M É R C I O RUA DOS BACALHO
R . D E S Ã O B E N T O
R U A D E S Ã O J U L I Ã O
RUA AUGUSTA
Teatro
R. DO CRUCIFIXO
I V E N S
de São
R U A A U R E ( R . D O O U R O )
Carlos
R . D A E S P E R A N Ç A
Chiado
R U A D O A R S E N A L
R. DE SÃO
R U A DAS T R I N A S
R . D O S R E M É D I O S
R. DE SÃO FELIX
R U A D E D O M L U Í S I R. DA MOEDA R. D. RIBEIRA PAULO R U A RUA DO ALECRIM R . V IT O R C O R D O N Estação Fluvial e j o
R U A D E S . J O Ã O D A M ATA
C. RIBEIRO S A N TOS 24 DE J UL HO NOVA AVENIDA DA RIBEIRA DAS NAUS Terreiro Terreiro do Paço T
C. MARQUES DE ABRANTES A R L O S I
R U A DA S J A N EL A S V ER DES AVENI DA Santos Cais do Estação do Paço R . P E R O DE ALENQ U E R
R UA D E S Ã O D O M I N G O S
L A P A
RUA DO OLIVAL Fluvial Belem
Sodré
ESTÁDIO
T. D A
T e j o A V E N I D A R . G I L EA N E S MUNICIPAL ILHA DA MADEIRA AVENIDA DA RUA 1 5 C A L Ç A D A D O G A L V Ã O M E M Ó R I A AJUDA
DO
RESTELO
BEL ÉM
R U A D E A L C O L E N A
AVENIDA DA TORRE DE BELÉM D O R E S T E L O R U A D E B E L É M
RUA DOM FRANCISCO DE ALMEID A R. DOS JERÓNIMOS RUA 1
RUA 4
C A L Ç A D A D A A J U D A
R U A S Ã O F. X A V I E R
DE ALMEIDA
R. DOM LOURENÇO
PRAÇA
Key R. DOM CRISTÓVÃO RUA BARTOLOMEU DIAS Cultural IMPÉRIO Belém
Centro
DO
VILA
A V E N I D A D A Í N D I A
DA GAMA
CORREIA
Estação
Sight / Place of interest R. DE PEDROUÇOS de Belém de Belém
Fluvial
Pedestrian street A V E N I D A D E B R A S Í L I A
Funicular railway
0 meters 250
0 yards 250
Tej o
For keys to symbols see back flap
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342  THE IBERIAN PENINSULA

1 Oceanário de
Lisboa
Esplanada Dom Carlos I, Parque
das Nações. Tel 218-917 000.
q Oriente. @ 705, 728, 744, 750.
£ Gare do Oriente. Open daily.
& 7 ∑ oceanario.pt
This huge oceanarium, on the
banks of the Tagus, is the
second largest in the world.
It was designed for Expo ’98
by the American architect
Peter Chermayeff to illustrate
the environmental theme of
“The Oceans: A Heritage for
the Future.”
The central feature is a gigantic Statue of woman praying beside tomb of Carlos I in São Vicente de Fora
aquarium, the “Open Tank,” with
enough water to fill four Olympic Panels from churches, to a church and monastery on
swimming pools. Representing monasteries, and other sites this site. The present church
the open ocean, this contains around Portugal have been was completed in 1627. The
fauna of the high seas, from sea reassembled here. Highlights Italianate facade has statues of
bream to sharks. Around the include a blue-and-white, Saints Vincent, Augustine, and
main tank four smaller aquariums 18th-century panorama Sebastian over the entrance.
reconstruct the ecosystems of showing Lisbon before the The church has reopened after
the Atlantic, Antarctic, Pacific, earthquake, and colorful extensive renovation.
and Indian oceans. 17th-century carpet tiles Behind the church is the old
(so-called because they imitated refectory, transformed into the
2 Museu Nacional the patterns of Moorish rugs). Bragança Pantheon in 1885. The
do Azulejo tombs of almost every Bragança
king and queen are here, from
Rua da Madre de Deus 4. Tel 218-100 João IV, who died in 1656, to
340. @ 718, 728, 742, 759, 794. Manuel II, last king of Portugal.
Open Tue–Sun. Closed Jan 1, Easter Only Maria I and Pedro IV are
Sun, May 1, Dec 25. - 0 & not buried here. A stone
∑ museudoazulejo.pt mourner kneels at the tomb
of Carlos I and his son Luís
The idea of decorative tiles was Felipe, assassinated in Praça do
a legacy of the Moors. From the Comércio (see p344) in 1908.
16th century onward, Portugal
started producing its own 4 Alfama
painted ceramic tiles (azulejos).
The blue-and-white tiles of the @ 737. v 12, 28.
Baroque era are considered by
many to be the finest. A fascinating quarter at any
The National Tile Museum is time of day, the Alfama comes
housed in the Convento da to life in the late afternoon and
Madre de Deus, founded by early evening, when the small
Dona Leonor (widow of João II) restaurants and bars start to fill
in 1509. The interior of the Detail from 16th-century altarpiece in the and music, often fado, can be
church has striking Baroque Museu Nacional do Azulejo heard in the alleyways. It is hard
decoration, added by João V. to believe that this, the oldest
An important surviving feature part of Lisbon, was once the
of the original convent is the 3 São Vicente most desirable quarter of the
Manueline cloister. Along with de Fora city. In the Middle Ages, wealthy
the larger Renaissance cloister, it residents started to move away,
provides a stunning setting for Largo de São Vicente. Tel 218-824 400. fearing earthquakes, leaving
the museum. Decorative panels, v 28. @ 712, 734. Open Tue–Sun. the quarter to fishermen and
individual tiles, and photographs Closed public hols. & to cloisters. paupers. Ironically, the Alfama
trace tile-making from its was spared by the earthquake
introduction, through Spanish St. Vincent was proclaimed of 1755. Today, the area is a
influence and the development Lisbon’s patron saint in 1173, warren of narrow streets and
of Portugal’s own styles, to today. when his relics were brought small, picturesque houses
For hotels and restaurants see p362 and p363


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LISBON  343


clinging to the hillside below rebuilt. It was
the Castelo de São Jorge. restored again,
The least strenuous way to along with parts
see this area is to start at the of the Santa Cruz
castle at the top and work your district, in 2006.
way down. Attractions on the The castle
way include the Museu de gardens and
Artes Decorativas (Museum narrow streets of
of Decorative Arts), which has the old Santa Cruz
its own workshops, and the district, which lies
sweeping views from the within the walls,
terrace of the Miradouro de are a pleasant
Santa Luzia. You could also place for a stroll,
visit, on a Tuesday or Saturday, and the views are
the colorful Feira da Ladra the finest in
(Thieves’ Market) in Campo de Lisbon. Visitors can
Santa Clara, to the east of the climb the towers,
castle, or the early morning fish one of which has a
market in Rua de São Pedro. camera obscura,
walk along the
5 Castelo de reconstructed
São Jorge ramparts, or stand The Sé, Lisbon’s austere 12th-century cathedral
on the shaded
Porta de S. Jorge, Rua do Chão da Feira. observation
Tel 218-800 620. @ 737. v 28. Open terrace. Within the castle’s outer of nine Gothic chapels in the
daily. & ∑ castelodesaojorge.pt walls there is also a museum ambulatory behind the altar,
and an archaeological site. contains two fine 14th-century
Following the recapture of tombs and in the Franciscan
Lisbon from the Moors in 1147, chapel by the entrance stands
King Afonso Henriques trans- 6 Sé the font where St. Antony of
formed their citadel – which Largo da Sé. Tel 218-866 752. @ 737. Padua was baptized in 1195. In
crowned Lisbon’s eastern hill – v 12, 28. Open daily. Cloister & the Gothic cloister behind the
into the residence of the treasury: Open daily. & Sé, excavations have unearthed
Portuguese kings. In 1511, Roman and other remains.
Manuel I built a more lavish In 1150, Afonso Henriques built The treasury, located in one
palace beside the river (see p344). a cathedral for the first bishop of of the towers, has a splendid
In the centuries that followed, Lisbon (Gilbert of Hastings) on collection of exhibits, including
the Castelo de São Jorge was the site of the Moorish mosque. the relics of St. Vincent. Legend
used variously as a theater, a Sé denotes the seat of a bishop. has it that his remains were
prison, and an arms depot. After Though much renovated over watched over by two ravens
the 1755 earth quake, the the centuries, the Sé has kept its on their journey to Lisbon in
ramparts lay in ruins until 1938, solid Romanesque facade. The 1173, hence the raven on the
when the castle was completely Capela de Santo Ildefonso, one city’s coat of arms.





















View of the Castelo de São Jorge across the Baixa, Lisbon’s lower town




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344  THE IBERIAN PENINSULA


















Panorama of the charming Bairro Alto district, located high on a hill
7 Praça do Comércio triumphal arch on the north Comércio was linked with the
@ 711, 714, 732, 759, 794 & many side, decorated with statues of busy central square of Rossio.
others. v 15, 18. q Terreiro do Paço. historical figures, leads into Rua The streets were flanked by
Augusta and the Baixa. Take the splendid Neoclassical buildings.
More commonly known as elevator to the top of the arch The Baixa (lower town) is still
Terreiro do Paço (Palace Square), for sweeping views of the city. the commercial hub of the city,
this was the site of the royal On February 1, 1908, King housing banks, offices, and
palace for 400 years. Manuel I Carlos and his son, Luís Felipe, stores. The streets are crowded
transferred the royal residence were assassinated in the square. by day, especially the central Rua
here, from the Castelo de São In 1974, it witnessed the first Augusta, but less so after dark.
Jorge, in 1511. The first palace, uprising of the Armed Forces By the Restauradores metro
along with its library and 70,000 Movement, which overthrew the station is the Palácio Foz, an
books, was destroyed in the 1755 Caetano regime in a bloodless 18th-century palace. Tourists are
earthquake. Its replacement was coup that became known as naturally drawn to Rossio, an
built around three sides of the the Carnation Revolution. elegant square and social focal
square. After the 1910 revolution, point with cafés and pastelarias.
it became government 8 Baixa The National Theater stands on
administrative offices. the north side. Just to the east
The south side looks across @ 711, 714, 732, 736, 759, 794 & of Rossio is the less attractive
the Tagus and was once the many others. v 15, 18. q Rossio, Praça da Figueira, the city’s
finest gateway to Lisbon – used Restauradores, Terreiro do Paço. main marketplace in Pombal’s
by royalty and ambassadors – time. Rua das Portas de Santo
with marble steps up from the Following the 1755 earthquake, Antão, north of the two
river. In the center of the square the Marquês de Pombal created squares, is a lively pedestrian
is an equestrian statue of José I an entirely new city center, one street full of restaurants.
(1775) by Machado de Castro, of Europe’s first examples of
leading Portuguese sculptor of town planning. Using a grid
the 18th century. The impressive layout of streets, the Praça do 9 Bairro Alto
@ 732, 758. v 28 (also Elevador
da Glória & Elevador da Santa Justa).
q Baixa-Chiado.
The hilltop Bairro Alto quarter,
dating from the 16th century, is
one of Lisbon’s most picturesque
districts. Its narrow, cobbled
streets house a traditional,
close-knit community, with
small workshops and family-run
tascas (cheap restaurants). This
predominantly residential area
has become fashionable at night
for its bars, nightclubs, and fado
houses (see p361). Very different
in character is the neighboring,
elegant, commercial district,
Rossio Square and the Neoclassical National Theater in the Baixa known as the Chiado, where
For hotels and restaurants see p362 and p363


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LISBON  345


artists exhibited include
The Earthquake of 1755
Ghirlandaio, Rubens, Guardi,
The first tremor of the devastating earthquake Gainsborough, Turner, Manet,
was felt at 9:30am on November 1. It was and Renoir. The collection also
followed by a second, far more violent, includes sculpture, jewelry,
shock a few minutes later, which reduced textiles, manuscripts, porcelain,
over half the city to rubble. A third shock and a variety of decorative arts.
was followed by fires, which quickly
spread. An hour later, huge waves came
rolling in from the Tagus, flooding the q Museu Nacional
lower part of the city. Most of Portugal de Arte Antiga
suffered damage, but Lisbon was the
worst affected: an estimated 15,000 Rua das Janelas Verdes. Tel 213-912
people died in the city. Sebastião José 800. @ 713, 714, 727. v 15, 18.
de Carvalho e Melo, chief minister to King Open Tue–Sun. Closed Jan 1, Easter
José I, later Marquês de Pombal, restored Marquês de Pombal Sun, May 1, Dec 24 & 25. & 7 -
order and began a progressive town- 0 ∑ museudearteantiga.pt
planning scheme. His cool efficiency
gained him almost total political control. The national art collection,
housed in a 17th-century
0 Museu Calouste palace, was inaugurated in
1770. In 1940 a modern annex
Gulbenkian (including the main facade)
was added. This was built on
Avda de Berna 45. Tel 217-823 000.
q Praça de Espanha, São Sebastião. the site of a monastery, largely
@ 716, 756, 726, 746. Open Tue–Sun. destroyed in the 1755
Closed Mon, Jan 1, Easter Sun, May 1, earthquake. Its only surviving
Dec 25. & (free Sun). 0 - 7 feature, the chapel, has been
∑ museu.gulbenkian.pt integrated into the museum.
The first floor houses
Thanks to wealthy Armenian oil 14th–19th-century European
magnate Calouste Gulbenkian, paintings, decorative arts, and
Portugal owns one of the finest furniture. Artists exhibited
personal art collections include Piero della Francesca,
assembled during the 20th Hans Holbein the Elder, Raphael,
century. Gulbenkian moved to Lucas Cranach the Elder,
Portugal in World War II, because Hieronymus Bosch, and Albrecht
of the country’s neutral status. Dürer. Oriental and African art,
This museum was inaugurated Chinese ceramics, and the gold,
in 1969, as part of the charitable silver, and jewelry collection are
insti tution bequeathed to the on the second floor. The top
nation. The building was floor houses Portuguese works.
The Elevador de Santa Justa, which links the devised to create the best The pride of the Portuguese
Baixa to the Chiado district layout for the founder’s varied collection is the Panels of St.
collection: the exhibits span Vincent (c.1467–70), attributed
affluent Lisboetas shop. On the 4,000 years, from ancient to Nuno Gonçalves. It is an
main street, Rua Garrett, the Café Egypt and China, through altarpiece painted on six
Brasileira – once frequented an extensive collection panels, featuring portraits
by writers and intellectuals – of Islamic ceramics of a wide range of
remains popular. The Chiado and carpets, to Art contemporary figures,
was devastated by fire in 1988, but Nouveau. Gulbenkian from beggars and
has been painstakingly renovated. was a friend of René sailors to bishops and
The best way to reach the Lalique, the great princes, including Henry
Bairro Alto from the Baixa is glassware and jewelry the Navigator and the
via the Chiado district and the maker, and one future João II, all paying
Elevador de Santa Justa, a room is filled homage to the saint.
Neo-Gothic elevator dating with his work. Another fascinating
from 1901–2. Tourist attractions Highlights of aspect of the Age
include the richly decorated the European art of Exploration is
São Roque church, the ruined collection include recorded in the
Igreja do Carmo, once the Van der Weyden’s 16th-century
largest church in Lisbon, and St. Catherine and Japanese screens,
the Museu Nacional de Arte Rembrandt’s which show
Contemporânea (MNAC), which Portrait of an Old Statue of the founder at the Portuguese traders
houses art from 1850–1950. Man. Other major Gulbenkian Museum arriving in Japan.




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346  THE IBERIAN PENINSULA

Belém There is also a 19th-century
Lisbon cab, painted black
At the mouth of the Tagus, where the Portuguese mariners set and green, the colors of taxis
sail on their voyages of discovery, Manuel I commissioned two right up to the 1990s and in use
grand monuments in the exuberant Manueline style of again today. The 18th-century
architecture: the Mosteiro dos Jerónimos and the Torre de Eyeglass Chaise has a black
leather hood pierced with
Belém. Today, Belém is a spacious, relatively green suburb with sinister eyelike windows. It dates
museums and gardens, including the vast Praça do Império, a from the era of Pombal (see p345),
formal square with a central fountain in front of the monastery. when lavish decoration
The area enjoys an attractive riverside setting, with cafés and a was discouraged.
promenade; on sunny days, it has a distinct seaside feel.
In Rua de Belém is the Antiga Confeitaria de Belém,
a 19th-century café that sells the local specialty:
pastéis de Belém, rich flaky-pastry custard tarts.
w Museu Nacional The coaches on
dos Coches display span
three centuries
Avenida da Índia 136. Tel 210-732 319. and range from
@ 714, 727, 728, 729, 751. v 15. the practical
£ Belém. Open Tue–Sun. Closed Baroque coach in the Museu Nacional dos Coches
Jan 1, Easter Sun, May 1, Dec 25. & to the prepos-
terous. Among
(free 1st Sun in month). 7 e Monument to the
∑ museudoscoches.pt the exhibits are coaches created
for Portuguese royalty. The oldest Discoveries
The National Coach Museum is the comparatively plain 16th- Padrão dos Descobrimentos, Avda de
was established in 1905 by century red leather and wood Brasília. Tel 213-031 950. @ 727, 728,
King Carlos’s wife, Dona Amélia, coach of Philip II of Spain. The 729, 751. v 15. Open Apr–Sep:
whose pink riding cloak can coaches become increasingly 10am–7pm daily; Oct–Mar: 10am–
be seen on display. Part of the sumptuous, interiors lined with 6pm Tue–Sun. Closed Jan 1, May 1,
collection occupies the former red velvet and gold, exteriors Dec 25. & ∑ padraodos
riding school of the Palace of carved with allegorical figures. descobrimentos.pt
Belém, while most of it is housed The most extravagant of all are
in a purpose-built museum on three Baroque coaches made Standing prominently on the
the east side of the square. The in Rome for the Portuguese Belém waterfront, the Padrão
rest of the elegant pink palace is ambassador to the Vatican in dos Descobrimentos was built
now the residence the early 18th century. in 1960 to mark the 500th
of the president The neighboring gallery anniversary of the death of
of Portugal. includes pony-drawn chaises. Henry the Navigator (see p338).
The 52 m (170 ft) high
monument resembles a caravel
– the small, lateen-rigged ship

Eastern Face of the Monument
to the Discoveries







Afonso V
(1432–81)
Pedro Álvares Cabral
Henry the Navigator (1467–1520), discoverer
(1394–1460), patron of Brazil
of the first explorers
Vasco da Gama Fernão de Magalhães (Magellan), Padrão erected by Diogo
(1460–1524) who crossed the Pacific in 1520–21 Cão in the Congo in 1482
For hotels and restaurants see p362 and p363


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LISBON  347


used by Portuguese sailors to
explore the coast of Africa.
Henry the Navigator stands at
the prow with a caravel in hand.
In two sloping lines either side
of the monument are heroes
linked with the Discoveries.
In front of the monument is
a huge mariner’s compass cut
into the paving. The central
map, dotted with galleons and
mermaids, shows the routes of
the discoverers in the 15th and
16th centuries. Inside the
monument, an elevator whisks
you to the sixth floor, where
steps lead to the top for a
splendid panorama.
r Mosteiro dos The Torre de Belém, a landmark for sailors returning to Lisbon
Jerónimos y Torre de Belém statue of Our Lady of Safe
See pp348–9. Avenida da India. Tel 213-620 034. Homecoming, watching over
@ 727, 728, 729, 751. v 15. £ the lives of Portugal’s sailors.
t Museu de Belém. Open Tue–Sun. Closed Jan 1, The beauty of the tower lies
in the exterior decoration:
Marinha Easter Sun, May 1, Dec 25. & (free 1st Manueline ropework carved
Sun of month). 7 ground floor only.
Praça do Império. Tel 210-977 388. ∑ torrebelem.pt in stone, openwork balconies,
@ 727, 728, 729, 751. v 15. Open and Moorish-style watchtowers.
Tue–Sun. Closed Jan 1, Easter Sun, Commissioned by Manuel I, The distinctive battlements are
May 1, Dec 25. & (free 1st Sun in the tower was built as a in the shape of shields,
month). 7∑ museu.marinha.pt fortress in the middle of decorated with the
the Tagus in 1515–21. squared cross of the
The Maritime Museum was Before nearby land was Order of Christ, the
inaugurated in 1962 in the west reclaimed in the 19th emblem that also
wing of the Jerónimos monastery. century, the tower stood adorned the sails of
A hall devoted to the Discoveries much further from the Portuguese ships.
illustrates the rapid progress in shore than it does today. The space below
ship design from the mid-15th As the starting point for the terrace, which
century. Small replicas show the the navigators who set Royal coat of arms served as a storeroom
transition from the bark to the out to discover the on the Torre de and a prison, is very
lateen-rigged caravel, through trade routes to the east, Belém austere, but the private
the faster square-rigged caravel, this Manueline gem quarters in the tower are
to the Portuguese nau, or great became a symbol of Portugal’s worth visiting for the elegant
ship. There is also a display of great era of expansion. On the arcaded Renaissance loggia
navigational instruments and terrace, facing the sea, stands a and the wonderful panorama.
replicas of 16th-century maps.
The pillars carved with the Cross Vasco da Gama (c.1460–1524)
of the Order of Christ are
replicas of various kinds of In 1498 Vasco da Gama sailed around
padrão, a stone marker set up to the Cape of Good Hope and opened
denote sovereignty over the the sea route to India. Although the
new lands discovered. Hindu ruler of Calicut, who received
Beyond the Hall of Discoveries him wearing diamond and ruby rings,
are models of modern was not impressed by his humble
Portuguese ships and the Royal offerings of cloth and wash basins,
Quarters, housing the exquisitely da Gama returned to Portugal with
furnished wood-paneled cabin a valuable cargo of spices. In 1502
he sailed again to India, establishing
of King Carlos and Queen Amélia Portuguese trade routes in the Indian
from the royal yacht Amélia, Ocean. João III nominated him Viceroy
built in Scotland in 1900. of India in 1524, but he died of a fever
The modern pavilion opposite soon after. Portrait of Vasco da Gama,
houses original royal barges painted in India
and a display of seaplanes.




346-347_EW_Europe.indd 347 14/07/16 10:16 am

348  THE IBERIAN PENINSULA


r Mosteiro dos Jerónimos

A monument to the wealth of Portugal’s Age of
Discovery, the monastery is the culmination of the
Manueline style of architecture. Commissioned by
Manuel I in around 1501, soon after Vasco da Gama’s
return from his historic voyage, it was funded largely
by “pepper money”, taxes on spices, precious stones, Tomb of Vasco da Gama
and gold. Various masterbuilders worked on the The 19th-century tomb of the
explorer (see p347) is carved with
building, the most notable being Diogo Boitac, ropes, armillary spheres, and other
replaced by João de Castilho in 1517. The monastery seafaring symbols.
was entrusted to the Order of St. Jerome (Hieronymites)
until 1834, when all religious orders were disbanded.















The Monastery
The facade of the monastery church
is dominated by the
magnificent South
Portal. This makes
dramatic use of
the Manueline
style of
architecture,
essentially a
Portuguese
variant of
Late Gothic.





Entrance to church
and cloister

KEY
1 Gallery Museum of Archaeology and 6 The chapter house holds the
2 The West Portal was part of the Maritime Museum tomb of Alexandre Herculano
designed by the French (see p347). (1810–77), historian and first
sculptor Nicolau Chanterène. 4 Refectory walls are tiled with mayor of Belém.
One of the niches holds a 18th-century azulejos. The panel 7 The chancel was
sculpture of the kneeling figure at the northern end depicts the commissioned in1572 by Dona
of King Manuel I. Feeding of the Five Thousand. Catarina, wife of João III.
3 The modern wing, built 5 The fountain is in the shape 8 The tombs of Manuel I, his wife
in 1850 in Neo-Manueline of a lion, the heraldic animal of Dona Maria, João III, and Catarina
style, houses the National St. Jerome. are supported by elephants.

For hotels and restaurants see p362 and p363


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