(DK Eyewitness) Travel Guide - Europe

A MSTERD A M  249



VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
Practical Information
Museumstraat 1.
Tel 020-674 7000.
∑ rijksmuseum.nl
Open 9am–5pm daily.
& 8 7 0 - =
Transport
v 2, 3, 5, 7, 10, 12.
. The Night Watch (1642) 4 Stadhouderskade.
The showpiece of Dutch
17th-century art, this vast canvas by
Rembrandt was commissioned
as a group portrait of an
Amsterdam militia company.
St. Catherine (c.1465)
This sculpture by the Master of
Koudewater shows the saint
Gallery of stam ping on Emperor
Honour Maxentius, who allegedly
killed her with his sword.





Asian
Pavilion















Cuypers Jan Steen’s symbolic Woman at her Toilet, painted
Library around 1660
Genre Painting
For the contemporaries of Jan Steen
(1625–79), this cosy everyday scene
was full of symbols that are obscure to
the modern viewer. The dog on the
pillow may represent fidelity, and the
red stockings the woman’s sexuality;
she is probably a prostitute. Such
genre paintings were often raunchy,
but nearly always had a moral twist –
domestic scenes by artists such as ter
Borch and Honthorst were symbolic of
brothels, while other works illustrated
proverbs. Symbols like candles or skulls
indicated mortality.
Auditorium




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250  FR ANCE AND THE L OW C OUNTRIES

Exploring the Rijksmuseum 1800–1900

The Rijksmuseum is too vast to be seen in a single visit. If time The 19th-century collection
is limited, start with the incomparable 17th-century Dutch features works by the Hague
paintings, taking in Rembrandt, Frans Hals, Vermeer, and many School, a group of Dutch
other Old Masters. The collection of Asiatic artifacts is equally artists who came together in
around 1870 in Den Haag.
wonderful, and a tour of the special-collections section also Their landscape work captures
provides a rewarding experience. The gardens, redesigned the atmospheric quality of
according to Cuypers’ original plans, are also well worth a look. subdued Dutch sunlight.
Look out for Anton Mauve’s
and The Woman Reading Morning Ride on the Beach
a Letter (1662). Of several (1876) and the beautiful
portraits by Frans Hals Polder landscape, View near
(1580–1666), the best- the Geestbrug, by Hendrik
known are The Wedding Weissenbruch (1824–1903).
Portrait and The Merry
Drinker (1630). The 1900–2000
Windmill at Wijk by
Jacob van Ruisdael Below the rafters is a series of
(1628–82) is a great rooms devoted to 20th-century
landscape by an artist art and design. Highlights in
at the height of his this section include a white
career. Other artists version of Gerrit Rietveld’s
whose works contribute iconic red-and-blue armchair
to this unforgettable (1923), Karel Appel’s imposing
The heavily ornamented Neo-Gothic collection include oil painting The Square Man
building, Rijksmuseum Pieter Saenredam (1951), and an F.K.23 Bantam
(1597–1665), Jan van biplane from 1918.
de Capelle (c.1624–79), and
1100–1600 Jan Steen (see p249).
Displayed alongside Flemish Asiatic Art
and Italian art are religious Rewards of the Dutch imperial
works by Netherlandish 1700–1800 trading past are on show in this
painters, such as The Seven Portraiture and still lifes continued section. Some of the earliest
Works of Charity (1504) by to dominate 18th-century Dutch artifacts are the most unusual:
the Master of Alkmaar, Jan painting. The evocative Still Life tiny bronze Tang-dynasty
van Scorel’s Mary Magdalene with Flowers and Fruit by Jan van figurines from 7th-century
(1528), and Lucas van Leyden’s Huysum (1682–1749) stands out China, and granite rock carvings
triptych, Adoration of the among works on display here. from Java (c.8th century). Later
Golden Calf (1530). Other 18th-century artists exhibits include Chinese
represented are Adriaan van parchment paintings, inlaid
der Werff (1659–1722) and Korean boxes, and decorative
1650–1700
Cornelis Troost (1696–1750). Vietnamese dishes.
The 17th century was a golden
age for Dutch art. By this time,
religious themes in art had
been replaced by secular
subjects, such as realistic
portraiture, landscapes, still
lifes, seascapes, domestic
interiors, and animal portraits.
The most famous artist of
this era is Rembrandt, whose
works here include Portrait of
Titus in a Monk’s Habit (1660),
Self-Portrait as the Apostle Paul
(1661), and The Jewish Bride
(1663), as well as the brilliant
The Night Watch (see p249).
Also not to be missed are Jan
Vermeer’s (1632–75) serenely
light-filled interiors, such as
The Kitchen Maid (see p248) The Jewish Bride by Rembrandt (1606–69)
For hotels and restaurants see p260 and p261


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A MSTERD A M  251


the national museum of
modern art, showing works
by well-known names such as
Picasso, Matisse, Chagall, and
Monet. Constantly changing
exhibitions reflect the latest
developments not only in
painting and sculpture, but
also in printing, drawing,
photography, video, and
industrial design.
Among the museum’s best
collections are works by the
Dutch painter Mondriaan
(1872–1944). One of the
founding members of De Stijl
(The Style) – an artistic
The Bedroom, painted during Van Gogh’s stay in Arles, France
movement which espoused
i Van Gogh museum’s collection. Famous clarity and simplicity –
Mondriaan went on to produce
Museum works include The Potato Eaters many abstract geometrical
(1885), from the artist’s Dutch compositions, such as
Museumplein 6. Tel 020-570 5200.
v 2, 3, 5, 12. Open daily. period, The Bedroom (1888), Composition in Red, Black,
Closed Jan 1. & 7 9 - = painted to celebrate his achieve- Blue, Yellow, and Grey.
∑ vangoghmuseum.com ment of domestic stability in Other artists represented
the Yellow House in Arles, and in the exhibitions include the
Vincent Van Gogh (1853–90), Vase with Sunflowers (1889). One American photographer Man
born in Zundert, began of Van Gogh’s last paintings is Ray (1890–1977), the Russian
painting in 1880. He worked in the dramatic Wheatfield and Kazimir Malevich (1878–1935),
the Netherlands for five years, Crows (1890). The menacing founder of the abstract
before moving to Paris, crows and violence of movement Suprematism,
and then settling at the sky show the and the Swiss sculptor Jean
Arles (see pp192–3) in depth of the artist’s Tinguely (1925–91), who
the south of France mental anguish in created humorous sculptures
in February 1888. the last few weeks from junk and recycled metal.
There he painted before his death. Reopened in 2012 after a
more than 200 In addition to Van renovation program, the
canvases in 15 Gogh’s works, the museum now features a
months. During his museum displays spectacular annexe (known as
time in France, paintings by artists ”the bathtub”) for temporary
however, Van Gogh who influenced, or exhibitions. The terrace offers
suffered recurrent were influenced by, great views of Museumplein.
nervous crises, Vincent Van Gogh him, as well as works
hallucinations, and in 1871 by his friends and
depression. After a colleagues, such as
fierce argument with the French Gauguin and Toulouse-Lautrec.
artist Gauguin, he cut off part of
his own ear and his mental o Stedelijk
instability forced him into an
asylum. Van Gogh’s final years Museum
were characterized by Museumplein 10. Tel 020-573 2911.
tremendous bursts of activity. v 2, 3, 5, 12. Open 10am–6pm daily
During the last 70 days of his (to 10pm Thu). & 7 0 - =
life he painted 70 canvases. In ∑ stedelijk.nl
July 1890 he shot himself and
died two days later. He was on The Stedelijk Museum was
the verge of being acclaimed. designed to hold a personal
Van Gogh’s younger brother collection bequeathed to the
Theo, an art dealer, amassed a city in 1890 by art connoisseur
collection of 200 of his Sophia de Bruyn. It is housed in
paintings and 500 drawings. a late 19th-century Neoclassical
These, together with around building, adorned with statues
850 letters written by the artist of famous artists and architects. Statue of 16th-century artist Pieter Aertsen
to Theo, form the core of the In 1938, the museum became on the Stedelijk’s facade




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252  FR ANCE AND THE L OW C OUNTRIES


a visit. The walls of the hotel’s
café are covered with works by
late 19th-century artists who,
came here to paint the town.

3 Alkmaar
* 94,000. £ n Waaggebouw,
Waagplein 2–3 (072-5114 284).
( cheese market: Apr–1st Fri in Sep:
10am–12:30pm Fri.
∑ vvvhartvannoordholland.nl
Alkmaar is one of the few Dutch
A typical 17th-century gabled timber house towns to maintain its traditional
in Marken cheese market, which has
2 Marken and been held here since medieval
Volendam times. Every Friday morning in The soaring pipes of the famous organ in
summer, local producers lay out
Gouda and Edam cheeses in Haarlem’s Grote Kerk
Marken: * 2,000. @ 4 Volendam:
* 21,000. @ n Zeestraat 37 (0299- the Waagplein, and from 4 Haarlem
363747). ( Sat. ∑ vvv-volendam.nl here, porters sporting colorful
straw hats take them off on * 147,000. £ n Grote Markt 2
Located on the shores of the sledges for weighing at the (023) 531 7325). ( Mon, Fri & Sat.
Marker Meer, and less than an Waaggebouw (Weigh House). _ Haarlem Jazz Festival (mid-Aug).
hour’s drive from Amsterdam, This imposing building, altered
Marken and Volendam are in 1582 from a 14th-century Haarlem is the center of the
extremely popular with tourists, chapel, also houses the Het Dutch printing, pharma-
who are drawn to their old-world Hollands Kaasmuseum, where ceutical, and bulb-growing
character. In spite of the crowds, local cheese-making techniques industries. Most of the city’s
it is worth spending a few hours are explained. main attractions are within
exploring their narrow streets Alkmaar’s vast Gothic church, easy walking distance of the
and canals, lined, as they are, the Grote Kerk, was completed Grote Markt, a lively square
with attractive 17th-century in 1520 and contains the tomb overlooked by the Gothic
gabled timber houses. You may of Floris V, Count of Holland. The Grote Kerk. Also known as Sint
even spot the local inhabitants nave is dominated by the 17th- Bavo’s, this huge church was
wearing traditional dress. century organ, designed by built between 1400 and 1550.
Places to look out for include Jacob van Campen and painted Its highly decorative organ
the Marker Museum in Marken, by Cesar van Everdingen. (1735) has been played by
which consists of six historical both Handel and Mozart.
houses. One of the houses is E Het Hollands Kaasmuseum Also on the Grote Markt, the
furnished as a traditional Waaggebouw, Waagplein 2. Tel 072- Stadhuis (Town Hall) dates
fisherman’s dwelling. 5155 516. Open Apr–Oct: Mon–Sat; from 1250 and displays a
Volendam’s Spaander Hotel, Nov–Mar: Sat. & 7 mixture of architectural
at No. 15 Haven, is also worth ∑ kaasmuseum.nl styles. The oldest part of the
building is the beamed
medieval banqueting hall of
the counts of Holland.
The Amsterdamse Poort, the
medieval gateway that once
formed part of the city’s
defenses, was built in 1355.
Haarlem is well known for
its hofjes (almshouses), which
began to appear in the 16th
century. Established in 1610, St.
Elisabeth’s Gasthuis now houses
a historical museum. The Frans
Hals Museum occupies the
almshouse where the famous
artist (1582–1666) supposedly
lived out his last years. In
addition to a superb collection of
Porters carrying cheeses at Alkmaar’s traditional market paintings by Hals himself, there is
For hotels and restaurants see p260 and p261


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THE NE THERLANDS  253


a selection of Dutch paintings Bulbfields of the Netherlands
and applied art dating from the
16th and 17th centuries. Bulb species cultivated in the Netherlands include lilies, gladioli,
daffodils, hyacinths, irises, crocuses, and dahlias. The most famous
E Frans Hals Museum bulb of all, however, is the tulip.
Groot Heiligland 62. Tel 023-5115 775. Originally from Turkey, it was first
Open Tue–Sat, pm Sun. Closed Jan 1, grown in Dutch soil by Carolus
Dec 25. & 8 7 = Clusius in 1593. Occupying a
30 km (19 mile) strip between
Haarlem and Leiden, the
5 Paleis Het Loo Bloembollenstreek is the most
important bulb-growing area in
Koninklijk Park 1, Apeldoorn. Tel 055- the country. From late January,
577 2400. £ to Apeldoorn, then bus the polders bloom with brightly
10, 16, or 202. Open Tue–Sun. colored bulbs, building to a
Closed Jan 1. & 8 7 0 climax in mid-April when the
∑ paleishetloo.nl tulips flower. For a breathtaking
showcase of flowering bulbs,
Stadholder William III built Het visit the Keukenhof gardens, on
Loo in 1686 as a royal hunting the outskirts of Lisse and easily
lodge. Generations of the House reached by bus from Leiden
of Orange used the lodge as a station or Schiphol Airport
summer palace, which came to A blanket of color, formed by tulips in (Stationsweg Lisse; Tel: 0252-
be regarded as the “Versailles of the Bloembollenstreek 465 555; www.keukenhof.nl).
the Netherlands.” The building’s
Classical facade belies the
opulence of the interior. Among first places in the Netherlands to art, with works by Van Gogh,
the most lavish apartments are embrace Christianity, and in the Courbet, and Damien Hirst, as
the Royal Bedroom of William III Middle Ages, it grew into an well as sculpture, costume, and
(1713), with its wall coverings and important religious center. The furniture collections.
draperies of rich orange damask city retains many of its medieval
and blue silk, and the Old Dining churches and monasteries. E Museum Catharijneconvent
Room (1686). In the latter half of The Domkerk, Utrecht’s Lange Nieuwstraat 38. Tel 030-2313
the 20th century, Het Loo’s cathedral, was begun in 1254. 835. Open Tue–Sun. Closed Apr 27.
beautiful formal gardens were Today, only the north and south & - 7 = ∑ catharijne
recreated from old plans. transepts, two chapels, and the convent.nl
choir remain, along with the E Centraal Museum
15th-century cloisters and a Agnietenstraat 1. Tel 030-2362 362.
chapterhouse. The Domtoren, Open Tue–Sun. Closed Jan 1, Apr 27,
which stands apart from the Dec 25. & 9 =
cathedral, is one of the tallest ∑ centraalmuseum.nl
towers in the Netherlands, at
112 m (367 ft). Completed in
1382, on the site of the small
8th-century church of St.
Willibrord, it affords magnificent
views of the city.
Among Utrecht’s many
museums are the Museum
Catharijneconvent, which deals
with the troubled history of
religion in the Netherlands
The sumptuously decorated Royal Bedroom and owns an award-winning
of Stadholder William III collection of medieval art, and
the Nederlands Spoorweg-
6 Utrecht museum, a superb railroad
museum, housed in the restored
* 234,000. £ @ n Domplein 9 19th-century Maliebaan station.
(0900-236 000). ( Wed & Sat. At the heart of the collection at
∑ visit-utrecht.com the Centraal Museum is a series
of portraits by artist Jan van
Utrecht was founded by the Scorel (1495–1562), known as
Romans in AD 47 to protect a the “Utrecht Caravaggisti.” There
strategic river crossing on the is also an impressive collection Utrecht’s massive Gothic Domtoren, which
Rhine. The town was one of the of modern and contemporary dominates the city




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254  FR ANCE AND THE L OW C OUNTRIES

7 Leiden
* 119,000. £ @ n Stationsweg
41 (071-516 600). ( Wed, Sat.
∑ leiden.nl
Leiden is a prosperous town
that dates back to Roman times.
Its famous university is the
oldest in the Netherlands,
founded in 1575 by William of
Orange. Created in 1587, the
university’s botanical garden,
the Hortus Botanicus der
Rijksuniversiteit Leiden, is
still open to the public. Hortus Botanicus, the tranquil botanical gardens of Leiden University
One of Leiden’s main attrac-
tions is the Rijksmuseum van E Rijksmuseum van Oudheden dining hall of Count Floris V, is
Oudheden (National Museum Rapenburg 28. Tel 071-5163 163. Open open to the public when
of Antiquities). Established in Tue–Sun. Closed Jan 1, Apr 27, Oct 3, parliament is not in session.
1818, the museum houses an Dec 25. & 7 - = ∑ rmo.nl An outstanding collection
outstanding collection of E Museum Volkenkunde of works by Dutch Masters
Egyptian artifacts, including the Steenstraat 1. Tel 071-5168 800. Open Rembrandt, Jan Vermeer,
1st-century AD Temple of Taffeh. Tue–Sun. Closed Jan 1, Apr 27, May 5, and Jan Steen is assembled
There are also displays of textiles, Oct 3, Dec 25. & = 7 ∑ mv.nl in the Royal Picture Gallery
musical instruments, Etruscan at the Mauritshuis. More Dutch
bronze-work, and fragments of 8 The Hague Golden Age paintings are on
Roman mosaics and frescoes. view at the Museum Bredius
The magnificent Gothic * 497,000. £ @ n Spui 68 (070- and the Galerij Prins Willem V.
Pieterskerk was built in the 361 8860). ( Mon, Wed, Fri, Sat. The Haags Gemeente­
15th century. Its interior is ∑ denhaag.com museum has an applied-arts
rather austere, but there is section that includes the
a splendid organ (1642), The political capital of the world’s largest collection of
enclosed in gilded woodwork. Netherlands, The Hague (Den paintings by De Stijl (see p251)
Dating back to 1640, the old Haag or ’s-Gravenhage) is home artist Piet Mondrian.
Lakenhal (Cloth Hall) now houses to prestigious insti tutions, such Formerly called Het Oude
the Stedelijk Museum De as the Dutch parliament and the Hof (the Old Court), the Paleis
Lakenhal, with exhibitions of Inter national Court of Justice. Noordeinde is a splendid
art and furniture from the 16th When The Hague became 17th-century palace built in
century onward. The pride of the the seat of government in the Classical style. It is the office
collection is Lucas van Leyden’s 1586, it was a small town built of King Willem-Alexander.
Renaissance triptych, The Last around the castle of the counts
Judgment (1526–7). Leiden also of Holland. That same castle, P Ridderzaal
has an excellent ethnological much rebuilt, stands at the Binnenhof 8a. Tel 070-757 0200.
museum, the Museum Volken­ heart of the city, and forms Open guided tours only; book via
kunde, which has exhibits from part of the Binnenhof, where website. Closed public hols. & 8
many countries and hosts today’s parliament sits. The fairy- ∑ prodemos.nl
events on traditions, rituals, and tale, Gothic Ridderzaal (Hall of E Mauritshuis
practises of other cultures. the Knights), the 13th-century Korte Vijverberg 8. Tel 070-302 3456.
Open daily. Closed Jan 1, Dec 25. &
8 - = 7 ∑ mauritshuis.nl
E Galerij Prins Willem V
Buitenhof 33. Tel 070-302 3456.
Open Tue–Sun. &
∑ galerijprinswillemv.nl
Environs
Only a 15-minute tram ride
from the center of Den Haag,
Scheveningen has clean, sandy
beaches and good seafood
restaurants. The resort also has
a Sea Life Center and Muzee, a
small museum of marine-biology
The Binnenhof, home of the Dutch parliament, The Hague and local-history exhibits.
For hotels and restaurants see p260 and p261


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THE NE THERLANDS  255

9 Delft three connected tower blocks
* 95,000. £ @ n Hippolytus- whose tops are slightly off-kilter.
buurt 4 (0900-5151 555). ( Thu, Sat. The excellent Museum
Boijmans-van Beuningen holds
The charming town of Delft is Netherlandish and Dutch art.
most famous for its blue-and- Among its most famous exhibits
white pottery, known as Delft- are a number of paintings by
ware, which was introduced to Peter Brueghel and Rembrandt.
the Netherlands by immigrant Other museums of note
Italian potters in the 16th are the Wereldmuseum
century. De Porceleyne Fles is Rotterdam, with its superb
one of two Delftware potteries ethnological collection, the
still in operation, and is open Kunsthal, hosting exhibitions of
for guided tours. both high art and popular
Delft is also the resting place culture, and the Maritiem
of William of Orange (1533–84), Delft’s Nieuwe Kerk, with its soaring Museum Rotterdam, devoted
who commanded the Dutch 100 m (328 ft) high tower to the history of shipping,
Revolt against Spanish rule from 0 Rotterdam whose highlight is an iron-clad
his headquarters in the town. His warship, De Buffel, built in 1868.
richly decorated tomb lies in * 585,000. k 6 km (4 miles) NW. For a spectacular view of the
the Nieuwe Kerk, built between £ @ n Coolsingel 195 (010-790 city, take the elevator up the
1383 and 1510, but later restored 0185). ( Tue, Fri, Sat, Sun. 185 m (60 ft) high Euromast.
following damage caused by Built in 1960, it is the tallest
fire and explosion. The former Rotterdam occupies a strategic construction in the country,
convent that position where the Rhine meets and has a restaurant and an
William used as the North Sea. Barges from the exhibition area.
his military head- city transport goods deep into
quarters, and where the continent, and ocean-going E Museum Boijmans-van
he was assassinated ships carry European exports Beuningen
by order of Philip II around the world. Museumpark 18–20. Tel 010-441 9400.
of Spain, is now Following damage during Open Tue–Sun. Closed Jan 1, Apr 27,
home to the World War II, Rotterdam’s old Dec 25. & - = 7
Stedelijk Museum harbor area and river front have ∑ boijmans.nl
Het Prinsenhof. been rebuilt in daring and E Wereldmuseum Rotterdam
Hand-painted The museum avant-garde styles. Piet Blom’s Willemskade 25. Tel 010-270 7172.
17th-century contains a rare Kubuswoningen (Cube Houses) Open Tue–Sun. Closed Jan 1, Apr 27,
Delft tiles collection of of 1982 are extraordinary Dec 25. & - = 7
antique Delftware, apartments set on concrete ∑ wereldmuseum.nl
as well as tapestries, silverware, stilts. More recent eyecatching E Kunsthal
medieval sculpture, and portraits examples are Renzo Piano’s KPN Westzeedijk 341. Tel 010-440 0300.
of the Dutch royal family. Telecom head office and De Open Tue–Sun. Closed Jan 1, Apr 27,
Other sites of interest are Rotterdam by Rem Koolhaas – Dec 25. & - = ∑ kunsthal.nl
the Vermeer Centrum Delft,
which charts the life and works
of Delft’s most famous son, Jan
Vermeer (1632–75), and the
Oude Kerk, which dates from
the 13th century. Vermeer is
buried here, his grave marked
by a simple stone tablet.
R Nieuwe Kerk
Markt. Tel 015-2123 025.
Open Mon–Sat. & ∑ onkd.nl
E Stedelijk Museum
Het Prinsenhof
St. Agathaplein 1. Tel 015-2602 358.
Open Tue–Sat, Sun pm.
Closed Jan 1, Dec 25. & =
∑ prinsenhof-delft.nl
E Vermeer Centrum Delft
Voldersgracht 21. Tel 015-213 8588.
Open daily. Closed Jan 1, Dec 25. Peter Brueghel the Elder’s The Tower of Babel (c.1553), in the Museum Boijmans-van
& 7 - = ∑ vermeerdelft.nl Beuningen, Rotterdam




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Practical & Travel Information opening hours for the weekend.
Some museums adopt Sunday
The Netherlands is a straightforward country to travel hours for national holidays.
in, and visitors should find its citizens, who are often
multilingual, helpful and friendly. One of the joys of a visit Banking and Currency
to Amsterdam is the relatively car-free environment. Trams, The Dutch unit of currency is
bicycles, and pedestrians are given a higher priority in the the euro (see p23). Banks open
center than motor vehicles. Outside the capital, the Dutch from 9 or 10am to 4 or 5pm
public-transportation network is one of the most highly Monday to Friday. Some city
developed in Europe. branches close at 7pm on
Thursdays and open on
Saturday mornings. Banks are
Tourist Information Safety and Emergencies
usually the best place to change
The NBTC (Netherlands Board Amsterdam is much safer than money, but official bureaux de
of Tourism and Conventions) many North American and change, the GWK (grenswissel-
has offices in many cities world- European cities. Drugs-related kantoor-bureaus), also have
wide. Within the Netherlands, crime is still a problem, but reasonable exchange rates.
the state-run tourist-information tourists should not be affected by Most ATMs handle cards from
organization is the Vereniging this, as long as they act sensibly the main international banks,
Voor Vreemdelingenverkeer, and avoid certain areas after dark, and many credit cards. The latter
known as the VVV. They have in particular the Zeedijk district. are widely accepted in shops
around 450 offices throughout In case of emergencies, the and restaurants.
the country. The Amsterdam appropriate number to call is
branch is called VVV I listed in the directory opposite.
amsterdam Visitor Centre. } Communications
They provide information on Most public telephones have
sights, transportation, and Health Issues been removed due to the use
events, and will also change Minor health problems can be of cell phones, but you can still
money and reserve hotel rooms. dealt with by a chemist (drogist), find some in stations and tourist
The Museum Card (Museum- who stocks non-prescription areas. The majority of phone
kaart), available from branches drugs. If you need prescription booths only accept cards, which
of the VVV, is valid for a year, medicines, go to a pharmacy can be bought at post offices,
and allows admission to more (apotheek), open from 8:30am tobacconists, and train stations,
than 400 museums and galleries. to 5:30pm Monday to Friday. but it might be easier and
Attracted by the canals, cheaper to buy a local SIM
mosquitoes can be an irritant card for your phone.
Visa Requirements in Amsterdam, so bring plenty Main post offices are open
and Customs of repellent sprays and anti- 9am–5pm Monday to Friday.
Citizens of the EU, Australia, New histamine creams with you. Most small local post offices
Zealand, the US, and Canada have been replaced by post-
need only a valid passport to Museum Opening Times office agencies in supermarkets
enter the Netherlands. Those and bookstores. Stamps can be
visitors coming from non-EU Most of the larger museums bought at post offices,
states can reclaim VAT on certain open daily, usually from 10am tobacconists, or souvenir shops.
goods. Call the freephone line to 5pm. Some museums close
(0800-0143) for further details. on Monday, and have different
Flying to the Netherlands
Carriers operating non-stop
The Climate of the AMSTERDAM flights from the US to the
Netherlands Netherlands include American
The Netherlands has a °C/ºF Airlines, Delta Air Lines, United
temperate climate. Winters are Airlines, and KLM. Seven airlines
frequently freezing, and spring 22/72 fly direct from the UK to the
and autumn can be chilly. July 13/55 12/54 14/58 Netherlands, among them
and August are the warmest 4/39 7/45 5/51 British Airways and low-cost
months, but North Sea winds 1/34 airlines including Ryanair,
often make it seem cooler. You 5 6.5 3 1.5 easyJet, and Transavia. The
should expect rainfall all year hrs hrs hrs hrs least-expensive way to get from
round, but spring is generally 35 57 70 56 Amsterdam’s Schiphol Airport to
the driest season. The heaviest mm mm mm mm the city center is by the airport
rainfall occurs in the autumn, month Apr Jul Oct Jan train service. Trains leave for
especially in November. Centraal Station seven times
each hour between 5:40am




256-257_EW_Europe.indd 256 14/07/16 10:15 am

THE NE THERLANDS  257


and 1am, after which they run onward connection to London. Buses in the Netherlands are
hourly. The journey takes 20 Stena Line offers a train and reliable and efficient, and they
minutes. Schiphol Airport ferry combination ticket from accept the OV Chipkaart, a card
station is also connected to London to Amsterdam. which can be loaded with credit
other cities in the Netherlands. The Dutch railroad system, at machines (found at bus and
operated by NS (Nederlandse train stations, post offices, and
Spoorwegen), is one of the supermarkets) and used on all
Arriving by Sea
most modern and efficient in means of public transport. The
Ferry companies offering car and Europe, with an extensive route card is held against a card-
passenger services from the UK network. The NS website offers reader upon entering and
to the Netherlands include P&O up-to-date information on train exiting the bus, train, or tram,
North Sea Ferries, with daily trips for tourists, plus details of and it is debited depending on
sailings from Hull to Rotterdam, special fares. It does not, however, the distance traveled. You can
and Stena Line, which sails from issue tickets, which you buy at a buy a Chipkaart at train and bus
Harwich to Hook of Holland. ticket office; alternatively, use stations, tobacconists, post
P&O also operates regular the OV Chipkaart (see below). offices, and supermarkets.
crossings from Hull to Zeebrugge The info line 9292 provides
in Belgium. DFDS Seaways runs details on all public transporta- Traveling by Car
an overnight service from tion in the Nether lands. If you
Newcastle to Ijmuiden. need to arrange train travel The highway system makes it
abroad, visit the offices of NS easy to travel to the Netherlands
International, located in from anywhere in Europe. Major
Rail Travel Amsterdam’s Centraal Station or roads (marked N) and highways
International railroad routes book through the website. (labeled A or E) are generally
provide a fast and efficient link well maintained. When driving
between Amsterdam and many Traveling by Bus in towns, especially in
other European cities. From Amsterdam, be careful of cyclists,
Centraal Station, high-speed Long-distance bus travel is an trams, taxis, and pedestrians.
Thalys trains run to Brussels in inexpensive, if tiring, way to Most of the principal
2 hours 30 minutes, and to Paris reach the Netherlands. Eurolines international car-rental firms
in about 4 hours. In both Paris has at least two daily services have offices in Amsterdam and
and Brussels, passengers can from the UK to Amsterdam, at Schiphol Airport, but local
change to the Eurostar for an via the Channel Tunnel. companies are cheaper.
DIRECTORY
Netherland Board Ireland easyJet Stena Line
of Tourism and Scheveningseweg 12, Den Tel 0330-365 5000 (UK). Tel 0844-770 7070 (UK).
Conventions Haag. Tel 070-363 0993. ∑ easyjet.com ∑ stenaline.co.uk
UK UK KLM Rail Travel
∑ holland.com/uk Lange Voorhout 10, Tel 020-474 7747
2514 ED Den Haag. Tel 020-7660 0293 (UK). 9292
US Tel 070-427 0427. ∑ klm.com Tel 0900-9292.
∑ holland.com/us US Ryanair ∑ 9292.nl
Museumplein 19, ∑ ov-chipkaart.nl
Tourist Offices in 1071 DJ Amsterdam. Tel 0871-246 0000 (UK).
the Netherlands Tel 020-575 5330. ∑ ryanair.com Eurostar
Transavia ∑ eurostar.com
VVV I amsterdam Emergencies Tel 352-2700 2728 (UK).
Visitor Centre Tel 0900-0737. NS
Centraal Station Ambulance/Fire/Police ∑ transavia.com ∑ ns.nl
Stationsplein, Amsterdam. Tel 112. NS International
Tel 020-702 6000. United Airlines
∑ iamsterdam.com Airlines Tel 800-UNITED-1 (US). Tel 0900-9296.
∑ united.com ∑ nsinternational.nl
Embassies American Airlines Thalys
Tel 800-433 7300 (US). Ferry Companies
Australia ∑ aa.com Tel 0900-9296.
Carnegielaan 4, 2517 KH British Airways DFDS Seaways ∑ thalys.com
Den Haag. Tel 0844-493 0787 (UK). Tel 0871-522 9955 (UK).
Tel 070-310 8200. ∑ britishairways.com ∑ dfdsseaways.co.uk Buses
Canada Delta Air Lines P&O European Eurolines UK Ltd
Sophialaan 7, 2514 JP Den Tel 800-241 4141 (US). Tel 08716-646 464 (UK). Tel 08717-818 178.
Haag. Tel 070-311 1600. ∑ delta.com ∑ poferries.com ∑ eurolines.co.uk





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258  FR ANCE AND THE L OW C OUNTRIES

Shopping & Entertainment available from most newsagents
in the city center.
The Netherlands is justly famous for its cheeses, beers, and The main reservations office
flowers, available at specialist stores and super markets across for entertainment and cultural
the country. Amsterdam is a cosmopolitan city, so it is also easy activities in Amsterdam is the
to find a selection of foreign and ethnic goods, from Indonesian VVV I amsterdam Visitor
Centre at Stationsplein, across
beads to French designer wear. The famous brown cafés and from Centraal Station. Reduced-
coffee shops are an important part of Dutch social life, and price tickets can be bought at
visitors to the Netherlands should not miss the chance to try one. the Last Minute Ticketshop.
Opening Hours Witte, a white beer. Specialist Entertainment Venues
Stores in the Netherlands are store De Bierkoning offers the Among Amsterdam’s many
usually open from 9 or 10am to widest choice and best advice. theater venues are the Theater
6pm Tuesday to Saturday, and You can usually buy a good Bellevue, the Stads schouwburg,
from 1 to 6pm on Monday. In selection of Dutch cheeses at and the Felix Meritis (closed for
the larger cities, many shops supermarkets, including any renovations until fall 2017). For
stay open until 9pm on branch of Albert Heijn, street experimental theater, head for De
Thursdays and Sundays. markets, or specialist food stores. Brakke Grond and other venues
Instead of buying the ubiquitous located along the street known
Edam, try one of the many as the Nes. The Koninklijk
Where to Shop varieties of Gouda. Mature Theater Carré hosts long-
Most of Amsterdam’s large Gouda has a rich, salty taste and running international musicals.
department and clothing stores crumbly texture, while young Dance is an important aspect
are located in the Nieuwe Zijde, Gouda is fresh and curdy. of cultural life in the Netherlands.
along Kalverstraat. The city’s Other items for which the The Dutch National Ballet is
best-known department stores Netherlands is famous are flowers housed in Amsterdam’s large-
are De Bijenkorf, often described – which you can buy at street capacity Nationale Opera &
as the Dutch Harrods, and stalls, markets, and stores – and Ballet, while experimental dance
Magna Plaza, which is more a diamonds. For the latter, visit can be enjoyed at De Meervaart
mall than a store. Less expensive Gassan Diamonds. and the Stadsschouwburg.
options include Vroom & The Nationale Opera & Ballet is
Dreesman and Hema. For luxury Markets also home to the Dutch
fashion, PC Hooftstraat and Van National Opera.
Baerlestraat are lined with chic The Dutch love street trading and The focus for Amsterdam’s
designer boutiques, such as almost every town has at least classical-music scene is
Chanel, and Louis Vuitton. one open-air market. In Amsterdam, the Concertgebouw, home
The streets crossing the best-known are the Albert to the celebrated Royal
Amsterdam’s Canal Ring, such as Cuypmarkt in Albert Cuypstraat, Concertgebouw Orchestra.
Herenstraat and Hartenstraat, with a mix of Dutch and ethnic The Netherlands has a huge
contain many specialist stores, food, cheap clothes, and flowers number of jazz venues. In
selling everything from ethnic and the Waterlooplein flea market, Amsterdam, the internationally
fabrics to handmade dolls. in Oude Zijde. The Looier Kunst en renowned Bimhuis, the
Antiekcentrum, at No. 109 Muziekgebouw aan ‘t IJ, and
Elandsgracht, is a covered market the Alto Jazz Café are worth
What to Buy boasting the largest collection of visiting. The North Sea Jazz
One famous Dutch export is art and antiques in the Festival, held in Rotterdam
Delftware, the blue-and-white Netherlands. For flowers, visit the in July, attracts some of the
pottery from Delft (see p255). Only market along the Singel, between biggest names in jazz.
two factories still make it, though Konigsplein and Vizelstraat. Amsterdammers equate rock
imitation pieces are found in and pop with two venues, De
tourist stores all over the country. Melkweg and Paradiso, which
A certification stamp indicates Entertainment Listings offer a varied program. Big-name
and Tickets
that an article is genuine. In bands also play at Rotterdam’s
Amsterdam, the Galleria d’Arte For up-to-date listings of events Ahoy and Amsterdam’s
Rinascimento and Jorrit Heinen and concerts, the capital’s Heineken Music Hall.
both stock authentic Delftware. official tourist website, www.
The Dutch are keen beer drinkers. iamsterdam.com, in English, is
As well as brand names like a good starting point. Time Brown Cafés and
Coffee Shops
Heineken, Grolsch, and Amstel, Out Amsterdam, a monthly
there are many local specialties, magazine in English, carries The traditional Dutch “local pub,”
such as Zatte, a rare, bottle- extensive listings and restaurant the brown café, is characterized
fermented beer, and Wieckse reviews. The magazine is by dark wooden furnishings, low



258-259_EW_Europe.indd 258 14/07/16 10:15 am

THE NE THERLANDS  259

Canal Tours
ceilings, and dim lights. It is a tracks make cycling an
friendly place, and often a social There are many operators in extremely popular activity,
focus for the neighbor hood. Amsterdam offering canal even within cities. Yellow Bike
There are hundreds in tours. In addition to the organizes excursions in and
Amsterdam, but one of the best daytime sightseeing trips, there around Amsterdam between
is the tiny ‘t Doktertje. are night cruises, which often April and October, while the
For many visitors, a stay in feature cheese-and-wine US-based Euro-Bike and
the Netherlands is incomplete refreshments, a stop at a pub, Walking Tours arranges week-
without a trip to a smoking or a romantic candlelit dinner. long tours around the whole
coffee shop, where cannabis Lovers cruises are the most country. Cycletours Holland
is openly sold and, since the reasonably priced, while has a number of “bike-and-
smoking ban was introduced, P. Kooij are more upscale. boat” itineraries covering the
smoked in designated areas. main regions of interest. For
Though technically illegal, the Cycling those who wish to do things
sale of soft drugs is tolerated by independently, bicycles can
the authorities if it remains It is claimed that there are more be rented easily from many
discreet. Siberië is one of the bicycles in the Netherlands than outlets across the country,
smaller, more relaxed places in inhabitants. The endlessly flat and at more than 100 train
Amsterdam, while The Bulldog landscape and thousands of stations. The VVV are able to
is more tourist-filled. miles of well-maintained cycle supply detailed route maps.
DIRECTORY
Department Entertainment ∑ heineken-music- Brown Cafés and
Stores Tickets hall.nl Coffee Shops
De Bijenkorf Last Minute Koninklijk Theater The Bulldog
Carré
Leidseplein 15,
Dam 1, Amsterdam. Ticketshop Amstel 115–125, Amsterdam.
Tel 0900-0919. Leidseplein 26, Amsterdam. Amsterdam. Tel 0900-252 Tel 020-627 1908.
Wagenstraat 32, Den Haag. ∑ lastminuteticket 5255. ∑ carre.nl ‘t Doktertje
shop.nl
Tel 0900-0919. De Meervaart Rozenboomsteeg 4,
Coolsingel 105, VVV I amsterdam Meer en Vaart 300, Amsterdam.
Rotterdam. Tel 0900-0919. ∑ iamsterdam.com Amsterdam. Tel 020-626 4427.
Magna Plaza Entertainment Tel 020-410 7700. Siberië
Nieuwezijds Voorburgwal Venues ∑ meervaart.nl Brouwersgracht 11,
182, Amsterdam. Alto Jazz Café De Melkweg Amsterdam.
∑ magnaplaza.nl Korte Leidsedwarsstraat Lijnbaansgracht 234a, Tel 020-623 5909.
115, Amsterdam. Amsterdam. Tel 020-531 Canal Tours
Specialist Items Tel 020-626 3249. 8181. ∑ melkweg.nl
Muziekgebouw Lovers
Albert Heijn Bimhuis aan ‘t IJ Opposite Prins
Jodenbreestraat 21, Piet Heinkade 3, Piet Heinkade 1, Hendrikkade 26,
Amsterdam. Amsterdam. Tel 020-788 Amsterdam. Amsterdam. Tel 020-530
Tel 020-624 1249. 2188.∑ bimhuis.nl Tel 020-788 2000. 1090. ∑ lovers.nl
De Bierkoning De Brakke Grond ∑ muziekgebouw.nl P. Kooij
Paleisstraat 125, Vlaams Cultureel Centrum, Nationale Opera & Opposite Rokin 125,
Nes 45, Amsterdam. Ballet Amsterdam. Tel 020-623
Amsterdam. Tel 020-622 9014. Amstel 3, Amsterdam. 3810. ∑ rederijkooij.nl
Tel 020-625 2336. ∑ brakkegrond.nl Tel 020-625 5455.
Galleria d’Arte Concertgebouw ∑ operaballet.nl Cycling
Rinascimento Concertgebouwplein 2–6, Paradiso Cycletours Holland
Prinsengracht 170, Amsterdam. Weteringschans 6–8, Buiksloterweg 7a,
Amsterdam. Tel 020-671 8345. Amsterdam. Tel 020-626 Amsterdam. Tel 020-521
Tel 020-622 7509. ∑ concertgebouw.nl 4521. ∑ paradiso.nl 8400. ∑ cycletours.nl
Gassan Diamonds Felix Meritis Stadsschouwburg Euro-Bike and
Walking Tours
Nieuwe Uilenburgerstraat Keizersgracht 324, Leidseplein 26, Amsterdam. Tel 1-800-575 1540.
Tel 020-624 2311.
Amsterdam.
173, Amsterdam. Tel 020-627 9477. ∑ ssba.nl ∑ eurobike.com
Tel 020-622 5333. ∑ felixmeritis.nl
Theater Bellevue Yellow Bike
Jorrit Heinen Heineken Music Hall Leidsekade 90, Amsterdam. Nieuwezijds Kolk 29,
Muntplein 12, Amsterdam. Blvd 590, Amsterdam Zuid Tel 020-530 5301. Amsterdam. Tel 020-620
Tel 020-623 2271. Oost. Tel 0900-6874 242. ∑ theaterbellevue.nl 6940. ∑ yellowbike.nl


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260  THE NE THERLANDS

Where to Stay

PLANTAGE: Price Guide
Amsterdam Amsterdam House €€ Prices are based on one night's stay in
Family Map D3 high season for a standard double room,
CENTRAL CANAL RING: ‘s-Gravelandse Veer 3–4, 1011 KM inclusive of service charges and taxes.
The Golden Bear €€ Tel 020-626 2577 € under €100
Historic Map C3 ∑ amsterdamhouse.com €€ €100 to €180
Kerkstraat 37, 1017 GB A houseboat with a well-equipped €€€ over €180
Tel 020-624 4785 kitchen and bathrooms. Ideal for
∑ quentingoldenbear.com groups up of to eight people. This rustic B&B in a converted
Popular gay/lesbian hotel, with farmhouse is located close to
two buildings dating back to 1731. PLANTAGE: Hermitage €€ town. Two nights minimum stay.
Breakfast is served until noon. Canalside Map D3
Nieuwe Keizersgracht 16, 1018 DR HAARLEM: Stempels €€
DK Choice Tel 020-623 8259 Historic
∑ hotelhermitageamsterdam.com
Klokhuisplein 9, 2011 HK
EASTERN CANAL RING: A 1733 canal house with a garden. Tel 023-512 3910
Banks Mansion €€€ Good for groups or families. ∑ stempelsinhaarlem.nl
Canalside Map C3 This boutique hotel is located
Herengracht 519–525, 1017 BV WESTERN CANAL RING: where the former royal stamps
Tel 020-420 0055 Hotel Brouwer €€ and banknotes printing company
∑ carlton.nl Canalside Map C2 was housed.
This former bank-cum-mansion Singel 83, 1012 VE
has been the winner of a Tel 020-624 6358 THE HAGUE: Mozaic €€
Travelers’ Choice award. Rooms ∑ hotelbrouwer.nl Boutique
have a Frank Lloyd Wright- Unique rooms, named after Dutch Laan Copes van Cattenburgh 38–40,
inspired decor and a choice of artists, with views. No credit cards. 2585 GB
pillows. Everything is included Tel 070-352 2335
in the price – movies, breakfast, WESTERN CANAL RING: ∑ mozaic.nl
mini-bar, iPad loans, and more. Sunhead of 1617 €€ This design hotel in an elegant
Canalside Map C2 neighborhood has trendy, well-
Herengracht 152, 1016 BN appointed accommodations.
MUSEUM QUARTER: Conscious Tel 020-626 1809
Hotel Museum Square €€ ∑ sunhead.com ROTTERDAM: Stayokay €
Boutique Map B5 A romantic hotel with superb Hostel
de Lairessestraat 7, 1071 NR breakfasts and great views. Overblaak 85–87, 3011 MH
Tel 020-671 9596 Tel 010-436 5763
∑ conscioushotels.com ∑ stayokay.com
An eco-friendly hotel with huge Located in the Cube Houses
plants and sustainable materials. Rest of the built by Piet Blom in the 1980s.
Guests enjoy organic breakfasts. Netherlands Comfortable and distinctly quirky.
MUSEUM QUARTER: Stayokay DELFT: De Bieslandse UTRECHT: Grand Hotel Karel V €€
City Hostel Vondelpark €€ Heerlijkheid € Luxury
Family Map B4 Value Geertebolwerk 1, 3511 XA
Zandpad 5, 1054 GA Klein Delfgauw 61, 2616 LC Tel 030-233 7555
Tel 020-589 8996 Tel 015-310 7126 ∑ karelv.nl
∑ stayokay.com ∑ bieslandseheerlijkheid.nl In the former monastery of
Hostel with double rooms and the German Knightly Order, this
dorms. Facilities include a TV hotel boasts five-star luxury,
room and a bar/restaurant. stylish rooms, and cutting-edge
cuisine in its fine restaurant.
MUSEUM QUARTER:
Conservatorium €€€ DK Choice
Luxury Map B4
Van Baerlestraat 27, 1071 AN UTRECHT: Dom €€€
Tel 020-570 0000 Boutique
∑ conservatoriumhotel.com Domstraat 4, 3512 JB
Housed within a former music Tel 030-232 4242
conservatory, this hotel has state- ∑ hoteldom.nl
of-the-art amenities and a spa. In the shadow of Utrecht’s
landmark Dom tower, this
OUDE ZIJDE: Droog €€€ exclusive hotel is certainly
Luxury Map C3 the hippest in town, with a
Staalstraat 7B, 1011 JJ coveted restaurant, a cocktail
Tel 020-217 0100 bar out of a Bond movie, and
∑ hoteldroog.com rooms with Auping beds,
Hotel with a single apartment, Nespresso machines, and
an art gallery, a beauty salon, a yoga mats. Two suites come
boutique, and a courtyard Sumptuous furnishings at the Grand Hotel with private terraces.
garden, as well as a tearoom. Karel V, Utrecht
260-261_EW_Europe.indd 260 14/07/16 2:36 pm

TR A VELERS ’ NEEDS  261

Where to Eat and Drink

PLANTAGE: Tempura €€ Price Guide
Amsterdam Japanese Map E3 Prices are for a three-course meal for
Plantage Kerklaan 26, 1018 TC one, including half a bottle of house
CENTRAL CANAL RING: Tel 020-428 7132 Closed lunch, Mon wine, and all extra charges.
Pancakes! € Brasserie-style Japanese eatery € under €35
Dutch/Pancakes offering sushi, yakitori (skewered €€ €35 to €50
38 Berenstraat, 1016 GH chicken), and tempura dishes. The €€€ over €50
Tel 020-528 9797 St. Jacques sashimi are wonderful.
Come here for delicious Dutch THE HAGUE: HanTing Cuisine €€€
and international pancakes. The WESTERN CANAL RING: Fusion
flour is sourced from the Dutch Greenwoods € Prinsestraat 33, 2513 CA
grain mill De Eersteling. Tearoom Map C2 Tel 070-362 0828 Closed Mon
Singel 103, 1012 VG Chinese chef Han expertly fuses
CENTRAL CANAL RING: Tel 020-623 7071 Closed dinner French cooking with Oriental
Restaurant Vinkeles €€€ Come to this tearoom for a full flavors, creating dishes that
French English breakfast, afternoon tea please the eye and the palate.
Keizersgracht 384, 1016 GB with clotted cream, or organic
Tel 020-530 2010 Closed lunch, Sun lamb burgers. A sister restaurant LEIDEN: Buddhas €€
Dine among 18th-century bakery at Keizersgracht 465 does Thai
ovens or on a salon boat, and heartier fare, such as fish ’n’ chips. Botermarkt 20, 2311 EN
enjoy incredible Michelin-starred Tel 071-514 0047 Closed lunch
dishes. Huge Buddha statues line the
walls of this smart restaurant.
EASTERN CANAL RING: Rest of the It may be pricey, but the
Bazar € Netherlands extensive menu, generous
North African Map C4 portions, and authentic food
Albert Cuypstraat 182, 1073 BL DELFT: La Tasca €€ make up for that.
Tel 020-675 0544 Mediterranean
Lively, colorful restaurant serving Voldersgracht 13B, 2611 ET ROTTERDAM: FG Restaurant €€€
delectable Moroccan and Middle- Tel 015-213 8535 Closed lunch, Sun International
Eastern dishes. Don’t look for the menu – there Lloydstraat 204, 3024 EA
isn’t one. Guests are invited to Tel 010-425 0520 Closed Sun
MUSEUM QUARTER: tell the chef what they don’t like, & Mon
Het Blauwe Theehuis € and he cooks up a three- to five- After cooking molecular
International Map B4 course surprise meal for them. cuisine at Heston Blumenthal’s
Vondelpark 5, 1071 AA restaurant, François Geurds has
Tel 020-662 0254 Closed Mon–Wed DK Choice become a Michelin-starred chef
dinner in his own right. Vegetarians get
Dine in a 1937 concrete, steel, and HAARLEM: De Jopenkerk €€ their own multi-course tasting
glass structure nestled in a park. Dutch menu, while the chef’s table
The menu combines European Gedempte Voldersgracht 2, 2011 is a coveted spot. Affordable
and Mediterranean influences. WB lunch menu.
Tel 023-533 4114
NIEUWE ZIJDE: Getto This century-old church has UTRECHT: Badhu €
Food & Drink € been transformed into a grand Arabian
Café/Bar Map D2 café, restaurant, and brewery. Willem van Noortplein 19, 3514 GK
Warmoesstraat 51, 1012 HW Most of the meat and fish dishes Tel 030-272 0444
Tel 020-421 5151 Closed lunch, Mon are cooked with beer, and every As befits a restaurant in a
This gay-friendly bar-restaurant course comes with a beer 1920s bathhouse, Badhu’s
offers home-style cooking. Its recommendation. A favorite interior is inspired by a
burgers are named after famous among the locals, this restaurant hammam. It serves an
Amsterdam drag queens, like the can get noisy, especially on Arabian breakfast, meze for
“Jennifer Hopeless.” weekend nights. lunch and dinner, afternoon
chai, and evening cocktails.
DK Choice
OUDE ZIJDE: Greetje €€€
Dutch Map D3
Peperstraat 23, 1011 TJ
Tel 020-779 7450 Closed lunch
Hailed by the New York Times as
the place where the Dutch go
to eat Dutch – it does not get
more authentic than Greetje.
Locals love the bloedworst
(blood sausage) with apple
compote, and the trekdrop
(liquorice) ice cream. The menu
changes every two months.
The brewing equipment behind the bar at De Jopenkerk, Haarlem

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262-263_EW_Europe.indd 262 14/07/16 10:44 am

THE IBERIAN


PENINSULA





The Iberian Peninsula
at a Glance 264–265
Spain 266–335
Portugal 336–363


















































262-263_EW_Europe.indd 263 14/07/16 10:44 am

264  THE IBERIAN PENINSULA


The Iberian Peninsula at a Glance

A wonderful, warm climate and superb beaches have made
the Iberian Peninsula a popular package-tour destination,
drawing millions of visitors to well-known areas, such as the
Algarve in Portugal and the Costa del Sol in Spain. But there
are also tranquil fishing villages, first-class museums and
galleries, and a wealth of splendid architecture, from the grand 0 km 100
monuments left by the region’s Moorish rulers to ultramodern, 0 miles 100
21st-century designs. The Catholic faith has deep roots in
Portugal and Spain. As well as spectacular cathedrals, there
are many colorful religious festivals that take place all year
round, making a visit all the more enjoyable.

A Coruña Santander
Oviedo
Lugo Bilbao
Santiago de (Bilbo)
Compostela
León Pamplona
(Iruña)
Burgos
Braganca
Valladolid Zaragoza Lleida
Toledo (see pp286–8) has one of the Barcelona
largest cathedrals in Christendom, a Oporto
massive Gothic structure that soars
above the rooftops of the perfectly Salamanca
preserved medieval town.
Coimbra Madrid Teruel
Menorca
SPAIN
Toledo (see pp266–335) Mallorca
PORTUGAL
(see pp336–63) Valencia
Ibiza
Lisbon Merida Ciudad Real Albacete
Evora
Alicante
(Alacant)

Lisbon (see pp340–49) rises Córdoba
above the estuary of the Tagus
on a series of hills. Trams and Seville
lifts carry passengers to the
heights of the Alfama and Granada
Bairro Alto districts. Faro
Málaga
Seville (see pp318–21) is regarded
as the soul of Andalusia. The city’s
famous bullring is arguably the finest
in the whole of Spain, and a perfect
venue for a first experience of the
corrida, or bullfight.


The Alhambra complex in Granada, Andalusia, Spain



264-265_EW_Europe.indd 264 14/07/16 10:09 am

A T A GLANCE  265



Madrid (see pp272–82)
is home to some of
Europe’s greatest art
galleries. The Museo
del Prado has out-
standing collections of
paintings by Velázquez
and Goya, whose
statue stands outside
the main entrance.
Locator Map





A Coruña Santander
Oviedo
Lugo Bilbao
Santiago de (Bilbo)
Compostela
León Pamplona
(Iruña)
Burgos
Braganca
Valladolid Zaragoza Lleida
Barcelona (see pp296–305)
Barcelona is famous for its Modernist
Oporto buildings, which include
Gaudí’s unfinished master-
Salamanca piece, the Sagrada Família.

Coimbra Madrid Teruel
Menorca
SPAIN
Toledo (see pp266–335) Mallorca
PORTUGAL
(see pp336–63) Valencia
Ibiza
Lisbon Merida Ciudad Real Albacete
Evora
Alicante
(Alacant)

Córdoba
Seville
Granada
Faro
Málaga

The Balearic Islands (see p309)
are often associated with mass
tourism, but away from the busy
resorts, there are hundreds of
unspoiled coastal villages and
Granada (see pp310 and 312–13), in the foothills beautiful coves to be discovered.
of the snowcapped Sierra Nevada, is unmissable
for its Moorish heritage. Its greatest monument
is the stunning Alhambra palace.




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THE IBERIAN PENINSULA  267

SPAIN


The familiar images of Spain – flamenco dancing, bullfighting, tapas bars, and
solemn Easter processions – do no more than hint at the diversity of this
country. Spain has five official languages, two major cities, of almost equal
importance, and a greater range of landscapes than any other European
country. These contrasts make Spain an endlessly fascinating place to visit.


Separated from the rest of Europe by the The 1960s saw the beginning of
Pyrenees, Spain reaches south to the coast spectacular economic growth, partly
of North Africa, and has both Atlantic and due to a burgeoning tourist industry.
Mediterranean coastlines. The country’s Since then, Spain has become a major
climate and scenery vary dramatically, player in European and world affairs.
from the snowcapped peaks of the
Pyrenees, through the green meadows of History
Galicia and the orange groves of Valencia, From the 11th century BC, the coastal
to the dry, barren regions in the south. regions of the Iberian Peninsula were
Madrid, Spain’s capital, lies geographically colonized by sophisticated eastern
in the center of the country. The madrileños Mediterranean civilizations, starting with
– as the city’s inhabitants are known – the Phoenicians, then the Greeks and the
have an individualistic spirit and a sardonic Carthaginians. Celts mixed with native
sense of humor that set them apart from Iberian tribes, forming the Celtiberians.
other Spaniards. Madrid may be the The Romans arrived in 218 BC to take
nominal capital, but it is rivaled in possession of the peninsula’s huge mineral
commerce, sport, and the arts by wealth. The fall of the Roman Empire in the
Barcelona, the main city of Catalonia. 5th century AD left Spain in the hands of
In the last 50 years, Spain has undergone the Visigoths, invaders from the north. Their
more social change than anywhere else poor political organization, however, meant
in western Europe. In the first half of the they were easily conquered by the Moors,
20th century, it was largely a poor, rural who arrived from North Africa in around 711.
country. Gradually people flooded into the Within a few years, the Moors controlled
cities, leaving the rural areas depopulated. almost the entire peninsula. Europe’s only






















The art of bullfighting, still a strong tradition all over Spain
Toledo, dominated by the fortress of the Alcázar



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268  THE IBERIAN PENINSULA

Moorish stronghold, in 1492.
In the same year, Columbus
reached the Americas, and the
conquistadors began
plundering the civilizations
of the New World.
The 17th century was a golden
age for Spain – a time of
outstanding artistic and literary
output. This brilliance occurred,
The Moor Boabdil surrendering Granada to the Catholic Monarchs however, against a backdrop of
economic deterioration and
major Muslim territory, the civilization ruinous wars with France and the Low
of Al Andalus excelled in mathematics, Countries. Spain’s misfortunes continued
geography, astronomy, and poetry, and in the 19th century, with an invasion by
by the 9th century, Córdoba was Europe’s Napoleon’s troops, leading to the War of
leading city. Independence (Peninsular War). In
In the 11th century, northern Christian the course of this century,
kingdoms initiated a military reconquest Spain also lost all her
of Al Andalus. The marriage, in 1469, of South and Central
Fernando of Aragón and Isabel of Castile – American colonies.
the so-called Catholic Monarchs – led to The late 19th century
Spanish unity. They took Granada, the last was a time of national
decline, with anarchism
KEY DATES IN SPANISH HISTORY developing as a
1100 BC Arrival of Phoenicians, first in a wave of response to rampant
settlers from across the Mediterranean political corruption.
218–202 BC Romans oust Carthaginians from Political instability led
southeastern Spain to dictatorship in the General Franco, Nationalist leader
5th century AD Visigoths take control of Spain 1920s and, a decade in the Spanish Civil War
711 Moors invade Spain and defeat Visigoths later, the Spanish Civil
756 Independent emirate established at Córdoba; War. The victor, the Nationalist General
Moorish civilization flourishes
Franco, ruled by repression until his death
11th century Christian kingdoms begin reconquest
of Moorish territories in 1975. Since then, Spain has been a
1492 Catholic Monarchs capture Granada, last democratic state.
Moorish stronghold. Columbus reaches America
1561 Madrid becomes capital of Spain Development and Diplomacy
17th century Spain’s Golden Age After the death of the dictator General
1808–14 Spanish War of Independence Franco in 1975, Spain became a
1898 Spain loses its last American colony, Cuba constitutional monarchy under King Juan
1936–9 Spanish Civil War; Nationalist General Franco Carlos I. The post-Franco era, up until the
emerges victor
1975 Death of Franco; restoration of Bourbon mid-1990s, was dominated by the
monarchy as Juan Carlos I is proclaimed king Socialist Prime Minister Felipe González,
1986 Spain joins the EC (now EU) whose party, PSOE, was responsible for
1992 Barcelona hosts the Olympic Games major improvements in roads, education,
2000 Spain celebrates 25 years of democracy and health services. Spain’s entry to the
2004 Nearly 200 people die in terrorist bomb attacks European Community in 1986 triggered
on trains in Madrid a spectacular increase in the country’s
2014 King Juan Carlos abdicates and his son ascends prosperity. Its international reputation
to the throne as King Felipe VI of Spain
was given a further boost in 1992, when




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SP AIN  269


Barcelona hosted the Olympic Games
and Seville was the site of Expo ’92.
With the establishment of democracy,
the 17 autonomous regions of Spain
have acquired considerable power.
A significant number of Basques favor
independence for the Basque Country.
The Basque terrorist group ETA declared
a ceasefire in 2011. There is a significant
independence movement in Catalonia,
led by Catalan President Artur Mas.
Religion, Language, and Culture
Following the Christian Reconquest in the
Middle Ages, a succession of rulers tried to
impose a common culture, but today
Spain remains a culturally diverse nation. Religious procession in a Seville street during Semana Santa
Several regions have maintained a strong (Holy Week)
sense of their own identities. Catalonia,
the Basque Country, Valencia, the Balearic The Spanish Way of Life
Islands, and Galicia have their own The Spanish are known for their natural
languages, which are in everyday use, and, sociability and zest for living. They
in some cases, have supplanted Castilian commonly put as much energy into
as the first language of the region. enjoying life as they do into their work.
During the Middle Ages, Spain gained The stereotypical “mañana” (“leave it until
a reputation for religious intolerance. tomorrow”) is a myth, but many people fit
The Inquisition, established by the their work around the demands of their
Catholic Monarchs, saw thousands of social life, rather than be ruled by the
General Franco, Nationalist leader non-Catholics tortured, executed, or clock. The day is long in Spain, and the
in the Spanish Civil War expelled from the country. Today, Spain Spanish have a word, madrugada, for the
enjoys complete religious freedom. time between midnight and dawn, when
Catholicism is becoming a less powerful city streets are often still full of revelers
influence in society, but saints’ days and enjoying themselves. Eating out is an
other important events in the Christian important social activity, with friends and
calendar are still marked by many family often meeting up in a pavement
traditional ceremonies, enthusiastically café or restaurant for a chat and a meal.
maintained in towns and villages Underpinning Spanish society is the
throughout modern Spain. extended family. In the past, a lack of
efficient public services has
forced the Spanish to rely on
close relatives, rather than
institutions, to find work or seek
assistance in a crisis. It is not
uncommon for three generations
to live under one roof, and even
lifelong city dwellers refer fondly
to their pueblo – the town or
village where their family comes
from, and which they return to
Spaniards socializing over drinks and a meal at a sidewalk café as often as they can.




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270  THE IBERIAN PENINSULA

Exploring Spain
Although many visitors to Spain come for the
beaches alone, increasingly tourists are drawn by the
country’s rich cultural heritage. The most popular
destinations are Madrid and Barcelona, which boast
world-class museums and a wealth of medieval and
modern architecture. For those with time to travel
further afield, Seville, Granada, and Córdoba in the
far south are the best places to see relics of Spain’s
Moorish past. Spain is Europe’s third-largest country, Ciutadella harbor, on the island of Menorca,
so getting around can be time-consuming. However, at twilight Portsmouth Portsmouth
there is a reliable network of trains, as well as Plymouth
good highways and bus services. Bay of Biscay Bordeaux
A8 Gijon
A Coruña Santander
N634 Oviedo Bilbao FRANCE
Sights at a Glance A6 Lugo A66 A8 A8 (Bilbo) San Sebastián Toulouse Marseille
(Donostia)
1 Madrid pp272–82 Santiago de Picos de Europa A1
2 El Escorial Compostela N623 AP68 Pamplona
(Iruña)
Rías
3 Toledo pp286–8 Baixas AP9 AP53 N120 León AP1 A1 A12 N240 ANDORRA
4 Segovia Pontevedra Ourense AP71 A231 AP15
5 Avila Vigo A52 A6 A67 Burgos Logroño N230 Parc Nacional AP7
6 Salamanca Miño A52 Palencia A62 N234 AP68 Huesca N240 d'Aigüestortes Girona
7 Burgos pp289–91 N13 N601 NIII Ebro A23 Monestir de C17
8 León N103 Duero A1 Soria Montserrat Genoa, Livorno,
9 Santiago de Compostela IP4 Valladolid N122 N234 Zaragoza AP2 Lleida A2 Civitavecchia
0 Rías Baixas Zamora A11 Poblet Barcelona
q Oviedo Oporto A6 S P A I N A23 A16
w Picos de Europa Salamanca N232 Tarragona
e Santander A62 A50 Segovia A2
r Bilbao Ávila El Escorial Guadalajara
t San Sebastián
Menorca
y Pamplona Coimbra A23 A66 N1 10 MADRID N320 Teruel AP7 Ciutadella
u Parc Nacional d’Aigüestortes A5 Tajo Cuenca A23 Maó
i Barcelona pp296–305 POR TUGAL A40 Castellon de Mallorca Alcudia
o Monestir de Montserrat Tajo Toledo A3 la Plana Palma de Mallorca and the
pp306–7 A58 A4 AP36 Valencia Mallorca Balearic Islands
p Poblet A8 A1 Cáceres N502 N401 A43 A3
a Tarragona A5
s Zaragoza Badajoz N430 Ciudad A43 Júcar Ibiza
Real
d Valencia LISBON A5 Guadia na Albacete A31 Eivissa (Ibiza)
f Costa Blanca A6 A31 AP7 Formentera
g Mallorca and IP2 A30 Costa
Alicante
the Balearic Islands N 4 3 2 N502 A4 N322 (Alacant) Blanca
h Granada pp310, 312–13 N420 C3314 MEDITERRANEAN
j Málaga A66 Úbeda Segura Murcia
k Costa del Sol N433 Córdoba A7 SEA
l Ronda A2 Guadalquivir N 4 32 Jaén A44 Cartagena
z Córdoba pp314, 316–17 N120 A4 A92 AP7
x Seville pp318–21 A22 Huelva A49 Seville A92 Granada
c Parque Nacional de Doñana Faro Parque Nacional AP4
de Doñana
v Jerez de la Frontera A382 A45 A92
b Cádiz Jerez de la Frontera Ronda A7 A7 Almería
Málaga Motril
AP7
A381
Cádiz Costa del Sol
Santa Cruz Algeciras
de Tenerife N340 GIBRALTAR
Melilla, Nador
Las Palmas de Oran,Ghazaouet
Gran Canaria Ceuta
Tangier MOROCCO Melilla
For hotels and restaurants see pp330–32 and pp333–5
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SP AIN  271


Distance chart
Madrid Distance by road in kilometers
Distance by road in miles
621 Barcelona
388
397 620 Bilbao
248 388
400 908 795 Córdoba
250 568 497
544 997 939 187 Malaga
0 km 80 340 623 587 117
623 1129 707 977 1153
0 miles 80 389 706 442 611 721 Pontevedra
538 1046 933 138 219 922 Seville
336 654 583 86 137 576
Portsmouth Portsmouth
Plymouth
352 349 633 545 648 975 697 Valencia
Bay of Biscay Bordeaux 220 218 396 341 405 609 436
325 296 324 725 869 833 863 326 Zaragoza
A8 Gijon 203 185 203 453 543 521 539 204
A Coruña Santander
N634 Oviedo Bilbao FRANCE
A6 A66 A8 A8 (Bilbo) San Sebastián Toulouse Marseille
Lugo (Donostia)
Santiago de Picos de Europa A1
Compostela AP68 Pamplona
Rías N623 A1 (Iruña)
N240
AP9 AP53
Baixas Pontevedra N120 AP71 León A231 AP1 A12 ANDORRA
Vigo A52 Ourense A6 A67 Burgos Logroño AP15 N230 Parc Nacional AP7
Miño A52 A62 N234 AP68 Huesca N240 d'Aigüestortes
N13 Palencia NIII Ebro Monestir de C17 Girona
Soria A23 Montserrat
N601
N103 IP4 Valladolid Duero N122 N234 AP2 Lleida A2 Genoa, Livorno,
A1
Civitavecchia
Zamora A11 Zaragoza Poblet Barcelona
Oporto S P A I N A23 A16
Salamanca A6 N232
Tarragona
A62 A50 Segovia A2
Ávila El Escorial Guadalajara
Menorca
Coimbra A23 A66 N1 10 MADRID N320 Teruel AP7 Ciutadella
A5
A23
POR TUGAL Tajo A40 Cuenca Castellon de Mallorca Alcudia Maó
Tajo Toledo A3 la Plana Palma de Mallorca and the
Cáceres A58 N502 A4 AP36 A3 Valencia Mallorca Balearic Islands
A8 A1 N401 A43
A5
N430 Ciudad A43
Badajoz Real Júcar Ibiza
LISBON Guadia na Albacete A31 Eivissa (Ibiza)
A5
A6 A30 A31 AP7 Costa Formentera
N502 N322 Alicante Blanca
IP2
N 4 3 2 A4 (Alacant)
N420 C3314
Úbeda Segura MEDITERRANEAN
N433 A66 Murcia SEA
Córdoba A7
N120 A2 Guadalquivir N 4 32 Jaén A44 A92 AP7 Cartagena
A4
A22 Huelva A49 Seville A92 Granada
Parque Nacional
Faro de Doñana AP4 A92
A382 A45 Key
Ronda A7 A7 Almería
Jerez de la Frontera Highway
Málaga Motril
AP7 Major road
A381
Cádiz Costa del Sol
Santa Cruz Algeciras Railroad
de Tenerife N340 GIBRALTAR International border The Giralda in Seville, a legacy of Spain’s
Melilla, Nador
Las Palmas de Oran,Ghazaouet Moorish rulers
Gran Canaria Ceuta
Tangier MOROCCO Melilla
For keys to symbols see back flap
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272  THE IBERIAN PENINSULA


1 Madrid Chamartin Burgos
Guadalajara
A2 Zaragoza
Barajas
Spain’s capital, a city of more than three million people, is A6 PASEO DE LA CA STELLANA Airport
situated close to the geographical center of the country, Chamberi CALLE DE BRAVO MURILLO M30
at the hub of both road and railroad networks. The origins C. DE JOAQUIN COSTA
of the city date back to AD 852, when the Moors built a Segovia CALLE DE LA PRINCESA C. DEL PRINCIPE DE VERGARA
fortress near the Manzanares River and a small community El Escorial Salamanca
grew up around it. It was not until 1561, however, that the
city became the capital of a newly formed nation-state. In GRAN VIA CALLE DE ALCALA AVENIDA DE LA PAZ
the following centuries, under the Habsburgs and then Centro PARQUE
DEL
the Bourbons, the city acquired some of its most notable RETIRO Retiro CALLE DEL DR. ESQUERDO
landmarks, including the splendid Plaza Mayor and the 19th-century taberna (taverna), one of the CALLE DE ATOCHA
Palacio Real. At the same time, the blossoming city few left in Madrid today Valencia
attracted some of Spain’s most outstanding artists, such NIII (E901)
M30
as court painters Velázquez and Goya, whose works can Manzanares Areanzuela
be admired in the world-famous Museo del Prado. CALLE DE CARRANZA Bilbao Toledo
C. DE MONTELEON
C. DE MENDEZ ALVARO
CALLE DE SAN ANDRES
CALLE DEL CONDE DUQUE DEL ACUERDO UNIVERSIDAD CALLE DE FUENCARRAL C. DEL BARCELO C. SERRANO ANGUITA Martínez PLAZA DE CALLE DE FERNANDO EL SANTO CALLE DE AYALA
CALLE DE
SAGASTA
CALLE DEL LIMON
ALONSO MARTÍNEZ
C. DEL DIVINO PASTOR
Alonso
C.DE CHURRUCA
PLAZA DE
CALLE DE LA PALMA
SANTA
CALLE DE HERMOSILLA
CALLE MEJÍA
BARBARA
LEQUERICA
Historia
C. DE CAMPOAMOR CALLE DE GENOVA
Romántico
C. DE MARQUÉS ENSENADA Colón
PARQUE C. DE SAN BERNARDINO CALLE C A L L E D E S A N B E R N A R D O C AL LE D E S A N VIN C EN TE F ER RER CORREDERA ALTA DE SAN PABLO Tribunal Museo de Museo C. FERNANDO VI C. DE ARGENSOLA CALLE DEL
VILLA
C. DE ESPIRITU SANTO
C. DEL TESORO
CALLE DE
JARDINES DEL
DEL Noviciado JESUS DEL VALLE C. DE SAN MATEO DE PARIS DESCUBRIMIENTO
Serrano
OESTE Museo CALLE DE AMANIEL HORTALEZA Tribunal Museo CALLE DE JORG E JUAN CALLE DE CLAUDIO COELLO CALLE DE LAGASCA
Supremo
CALLE DE SAN ROQUE DE VIENTO
PASEO DEL PI NTOR ROSALES
de Cera
Templo de Cerralbo C.DE ANDRES CALLE DEL PEZ C. DEL MO LINO JUSTICIA CALL E BÁRBARA DE BRAGANZA Bibloteca CALLE DE SERRANO
Debod Pl España BORREGO CALLE DE CALLE DE PELAYO Nacional
PLAZA DE PIZARRO Chueca
C ALLE D E IR UN C. DE LA LUNA C. CORREDERA BAJA DE SAN PABLO CALLE DE VALVERDE CA LLE D E F UE N C A R RA L CALLE AUGUSTO CALL D E LA LIBERTAD CALLE DEL BARQUILO CALLE DEL ALMIRANTE PASEO DE RECOLETOS Estación
ESPAÑA
CALLE DE LA ROSALEDA
CALLE DE VILLANUEVA
C. DE BARBIERI FIGUEROA
Recoletos
Santo
(Príncipe Pío)
Príncipe Estación del Norte Domingo GRAN VIA CALLE DEL BARCO CALLE DE C. DE SAN MARCOS CALLE DE PRIM RETIRO CALLE DE COLUMELA
Pío CUESTA DE SAN VICENTE PLAZA DE LA DOMINGO C. DE PRECIADOS Callao GRAN VIA GRAN LAS INFANTA S DEL REY PLAZA DE CALLE DE Puerta de AL CALA
Palacio de
MARINA
Retiro
CALLE DE
Linares
PLAZA
PLAZA DE
Alcalá
ESPAÑOLA
SANTO
Monasterio
PASEO DE LA VIRGEN DEL PUERTO CAMPO Nuestra Señora Nicolás PLAZA DE ISABEL II HERRADORES CALLE DEL ARENAL Sol CARMEN CALLE DE LA CALLE DE Metrópolis CALLE DE LOS MADRAZO PASEO DEL PRADO LEALTAD Palacio de ALFONSO XI Salon de Museo Nacional de
Banco de
Gran Via
de la
España
Encarnación
CIBELES
VIA
PLAZA
MONTERA
Edificio
Real
ALCALA
PLAZA
Comunicaciones
Academia de
Banco de
AVENIDA DE MEJICO
DE SAN
Bellas Artes
MARTIN
PLAZA DE
España
Teatro PLAZA DE
CALLE DE
ORIENTE
Real
CALLE DE MONTALBAN
DEL
CALLE DE PRECIADOS
PALACIO
PLAZA DE
C. DE JUAN DE MENA Artes Decorativas
Opera
CORTES
Sevilla
MORO
ARMAS
PASEO DE LA ARGENTINA
CALLE MAYOR
PLAZA
CALLE DE ZORRILLA
C. DE ANTONIO MAURA
C. DE SAN JERONIMO
SANTIAGO
PLAZA
Iglesia
CALLE DE LA CRUZ
DE LA
CENTRO
Congreso de los
de San
Reinos
PLAZA
Hotel
Casón del
Diputados
C. MORENAS
de la Almudena
Ritz
CUESTA
DE LA
PLAZA
NEPTUNO
PLAZA DE
PLAZA DE
P. DE LA CIUDAD DE PLASENCIA
VILLA
JACIN TO
PARQUE DE ATENAS
RETIRO
Palace
CALLE DE BAILEN PLAZA DEL de San Isidro CALLE DEL DUQUE DE ALBA CALLE DE LA MAGDALENA Antón CALLE DE MORATIN PASEO DEL PRADO C. DE ESPALTER CALLE DE ALFONSO XII
SACRAMENTO
CALLE RUIZ DE ALARCÓN
CALLE DE SEGOVIA VEGA CA LLE MAY OR CONC. JERONIMA BENAVENTE SANTA ANA CALLE DEL PRADO Hotel PLAZA DE CALLE DE FELIPE IV Buen Retiro
PA
Tirso de
Colegiata
Molina
CALLE DE LAS HUERTAS
Martín
CAL LE DE SEGOVI A C. DE LA COLEGIATA
CALLE DE ATOCHA
MORETO
CALLE DEL
La Latina
CALLE DE LA CABEZA
HUMILLADERO
C. DE DON PEDRO
CALLE DEL CALVARIO
DEL
LA CEBADA
CALLE DE TOLEDO
Mercado de PLAZA DE C. DE JUAN ELO ARGANZUELA CALLE DEL GOBERNADOR JERONIMOS PARQUE
RETIRO
la Cebada CALLE DE LA CALLE DEL MESON DE PAREDES CALLE DE LAVAPIES ZURITA CALLE DE SANTA ISABEL CALLE DE ALMADEN BOTANICO P. DEL DUQUE DE
CALLE DE LO PE D E VEGA SEO DEL PRADO
REAL
ENCOMIENDA
CALLE DEL AGUILA C. DE MIRA EL RIO ALTA C. DE LA RIBERA DE CURTIDORES EMBAJADORES PLAZA DE Lavapiés CALLE DE Convento de Atocha CARLOS V C. CLAUDIO FERNAN NUNEZ
JARDIN
CALLE DE ATOCHA
MOYANO
PLAZA DEL
EMPERADOR
CALLE DE CALATRAVA
CALLE DEL AMPARO
Atocha
CALLE DE EMBAJADORES
LAVAPIES CALLE DE
Santa Isabel
CARNERO
Key GRAN VIA DE SAN FRANCISCO CALLE DEL C. DE CARLOS ARNICHES ARGUMOSA RENFE Estación de
Puerta de
Toledo Atocha
Sight / Place of interest CALLE DE MIRA EL SO L
GLORIETA
Pedestrian street DE PUERTA
DE TOLEDO
0 meters 400
0 yards 400
272-273_EW_Europe.indd 272 14/07/16 10:09 am

M ADRID  273


Greater Madrid Chamartin Burgos
Getting Around Guadalajara
Zaragoza
The metro is the most efficient PASEO DE LA CA STELLANA A2 Barajas
Airport
way of getting around. Lines 1, A6
2, 3, 5, and 10 serve the main Chamberi CALLE DE BRAVO MURILLO M30
sights; lines 1 and 2 are good C. DE JOAQUIN COSTA
for getting to the museums C. DEL PRINCIPE DE VERGARA
around the Paseo del Prado. Segovia CALLE DE LA PRINCESA
El Escorial
Line 8 links Nuevos Ministerios Salamanca
and the airport. Useful buses CALLE DE ALCALA AVENIDA DE LA PAZ
include the 50, 51, 52, 53, and GRAN VIA
150 to the Puerta del Sol, and 2, Centro PARQUE
DEL
9, 14, 15, 27, 74, and 146 to the RETIRO Retiro CALLE DEL DR. ESQUERDO
Plaza de Cibeles. Buses to CALLE DE ATOCHA
Barajas airport depart the Valencia
terminal below Plaza de Colón.
NIII (E901)
M30
0 km 1
Areanzuela
Manzanares
Toledo Key 0 miles 1
C. DE MONTELEON
C. DE MENDEZ ALVARO
Bilbao
CALLE DE CARRANZA
CALLE DE SAN ANDRES
CALLE DEL CONDE DUQUE DEL ACUERDO UNIVERSIDAD CALLE DE FUENCARRAL C. DEL BARCELO C. SERRANO ANGUITA Martínez PLAZA DE CALLE DE AYALA Area of main map
CALLE DE
SAGASTA
CALLE DE FERNANDO EL SANTO
CALLE DEL LIMON
ALONSO MARTÍNEZ
C. DEL DIVINO PASTOR
Alonso
C.DE CHURRUCA
PLAZA DE
CALLE DE LA PALMA
SANTA
CALLE DE HERMOSILLA
CALLE MEJÍA
BARBARA
Historia
LEQUERICA
C. DE CAMPOAMOR CALLE DE GENOVA
Romántico
C. DE MARQUÉS ENSENADA Colón
PARQUE C. DE SAN BERNARDINO CALLE C A L L E D E S A N B E R N A R D O C AL LE D E S A N VIN C EN TE F ER RER CORREDERA ALTA DE SAN PABLO Tribunal Museo de Museo C. FERNANDO VI C. DE ARGENSOLA CALLE DEL GENERAL CASTAÑOS PLAZA
VILLA
C. DE ESPIRITU SANTO
C. DEL TESORO
CALLE DE
JARDINES DEL
DEL Noviciado JESUS DEL VALLE C. DE SAN MATEO DE PARIS DESCUBRIMIENTO Sights at a Glance
Serrano
OESTE Museo CALLE DE AMANIEL HORTALEZA Tribunal Museo CALLE DE JORG E JUAN CALLE DE CLAUDIO COELLO CALLE DE LAGASCA 1 Puerta del Sol
CALLE DE SAN ROQUE DE VIENTO
Supremo
PASEO DEL PI NTOR ROSALES
de Cera
Templo de Cerralbo C.DE ANDRES CALLE DEL PEZ C. DEL MO LINO JUSTICIA CALL E BÁRBARA DE BRAGANZA Bibloteca CALLE DE SERRANO
Debod Pl España BORREGO CALLE DE CALLE DE PELAYO Nacional 2 Plaza Mayor
PLAZA DE PIZARRO Chueca 3 Monasterio de las
C ALLE D E IR UN C. DE LA LUNA C. CORREDERA BAJA DE SAN PABLO CALLE DE VALVERDE CA LLE D E F UE N C A R RA L CALLE AUGUSTO CALL D E LA LIBERTAD CALLE DEL BARQUILO CALLE DEL ALMIRANTE PASEO DE RECOLETOS Estación Descalzas Reales
ESPAÑA
CALLE DE LA ROSALEDA
CALLE DE VILLANUEVA
C. DE BARBIERI FIGUEROA
Recoletos
Santo
5 Palacio Real
Príncipe Estación del Norte Domingo GRAN VIA CALLE DEL BARCO CALLE DE C. DE SAN MARCOS CALLE DE PRIM RETIRO CALLE DE COLUMELA 4 Gran Vía
(Príncipe Pío)
Pío CUESTA DE SAN VICENTE PLAZA DE LA PLAZA DE C. DE PRECIADOS Callao GRAN VIA GRAN LAS INFANTA S DEL REY PLAZA DE CALLE DE Puerta de AL CALA 6 El Rastro
Palacio de
CALLE DE
MARINA
Retiro
PLAZA
Linares
ESPAÑOLA
Alcalá
SANTO
PASEO DE LA VIRGEN DEL PUERTO CAMPO Nuestra Señora PALACIO ISABEL II HERRADORES CALLE DEL ARENAL Sol CARMEN CALLE DE LA CALLE DE Metrópolis CALLE DE LOS MADRAZO PASEO DEL PRADO LEALTAD Palacio de CALLE RUIZ DE ALARCÓN ALFONSO XI Salon de Casón del AV
7 Museo Nacional del Prado
Monasterio
DOMINGO
Banco de
Gran Via
de la
España
pp278–80
Encarnación
CIBELES
VIA
PLAZA
MONTERA
Edificio
Real
ALCALA
PLAZA
Comunicaciones
Academia de
Banco de
DE SAN
España
MARTIN
PLAZA DE
Bellas Artes
9 Centro de Arte Reina Sofía
Teatro PLAZA DE
CALLE DE
ORIENTE
Real
CALLE DE MONTALBAN
Museo Nacional de
DEL
0 Parque del Retiro
CALLE DE PRECIADOS
C. DE JUAN DE MENA Artes Decorativas
PLAZA DE
CORTES
Sevilla
Opera
MORO
ARMAS
q Museo Arqueológico
PLAZA DE
PASEO DE LA ARGENTINA
PLAZA
CALLE MAYOR
CALLE DE ZORRILLA
C. DE SAN JERONIMO
C. DE ANTONIO MAURA
SANTIAGO
PLAZA
Iglesia
Nacional
CALLE DE LA CRUZ
DE LA
CENTRO
Congreso de los
de San
Reinos
PLAZA
Hotel
Nicolás
Diputados
C. MORENAS
de la Almudena
Ritz
CUESTA
DE LA
PLAZA
NEPTUNO
PLAZA DE
P. DE LA CIUDAD DE PLASENCIA
VILLA
PLAZA DE
JACIN TO
(see inset map)
PARQUE DE ATENAS
RETIRO
Palace
CALLE DE BAILEN PLAZA DEL de San Isidro CALLE DEL DUQUE DE ALBA CALLE DE LA MAGDALENA Antón CALLE DE MORATIN PASEO DEL PRADO C. DE ESPALTER CALLE DE ALFONSO XII e Plaza de Toros de las Ventas
w Museo de América
SACRAMENTO
CALLE DE SEGOVIA VEGA CA LLE MAY OR CONC. JERONIMA BENAVENTE SANTA ANA CALLE DEL PRADO Hotel PLAZA DE CALLE DE FELIPE IV Buen Retiro Greater Madrid
PA
Tirso de
Colegiata
Molina
CALLE DE LAS HUERTAS
Martín
CAL LE DE SEGOVI A C. DE LA COLEGIATA
CALLE DE ATOCHA
MORETO
CALLE DEL
La Latina
CALLE DE LA CABEZA
HUMILLADERO
C. DE DON PEDRO
CALLE DEL CALVARIO
DEL
LA CEBADA
CALLE DE TOLEDO
Mercado de PLAZA DE C. DE JUAN ELO ARGANZUELA CALLE DEL GOBERNADOR JERONIMOS PARQUE
RETIRO
la Cebada CALLE DE LA CALLE DEL MESON DE PAREDES CALLE DE LAVAPIES ZURITA CALLE DE SANTA ISABEL CALLE DE ALMADEN BOTANICO P. DEL DUQUE DE
CALLE DE LO PE D E VEGA SEO DEL PRADO
ENCOMIENDA
REAL
CALLE DEL AGUILA C. DE MIRA EL RIO ALTA C. DE LA RIBERA DE CURTIDORES EMBAJADORES PLAZA DE Lavapiés CALLE DE ARGUMOSA Atocha CARLOS V C. CLAUDIO FERNAN NUNEZ
JARDIN
CALLE DE ATOCHA
MOYANO
PLAZA DEL
EMPERADOR
CALLE DE CALATRAVA
Atocha
CALLE DEL AMPARO
Convento de
CALLE DE EMBAJADORES
Santa Isabel
LAVAPIES CALLE DE
RENFE
CARNERO
Puerta de
CALLE DE MIRA EL SO L
Toledo CALLE DEL C. DE CARLOS ARNICHES Estación de
Atocha
GLORIETA
DE PUERTA
GRAN VIA DE SAN FRANCISCO
DE TOLEDO
The beautiful 17th-century Plaza Mayor, at the
heart of Old Madrid
For keys to symbols see back flap
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274  THE IBERIAN PENINSULA


Old Madrid and built in just two years.
At its center is an equestrian
When Felipe II chose Madrid as his capital in 1561, it was a statue of Felipe III, who ordered
small Castilian town of little importance. In the following the square’s construction.
years, it was to grow into the nerve center of a mighty empire. The elegant arcades that line
During the reign of the Habsburg dynasty, many royal the Plaza Mayor are today filled
with cafés and craft stores.
monasteries, churches, and private palaces were built. In the One of the more interesting
17th century, the Plaza Mayor was added, and the Puerta buildings is the Casa de la
del Sol became the spiritual and geographical Panadería, whose facade is
heart not only of Madrid, but of all Spain. decorated with splendid
Old Madrid’s splendid Bourbon palace, the allegorical paintings.
On Sundays, the square is the
Palacio Real, was built under Felipe V in venue for a collectors’ market,
the first half of the 18th century. with stalls selling coins, stamps,
books, and other items.
historical events. On May 2,
1808, the uprising against the
occupying French forces began
in the square, and in 1912, the
liberal prime minister José
Canalejas was assassinated here.
2 Plaza Mayor
q Sol.

Bear and strawberry tree, the symbol of For hundreds of years, this
Madrid, Puerta del Sol beautiful 17th-century square
1 Puerta del Sol was a center of activity, with
bullfights, executions, pageants,
q Sol. and trials by the Inquisition
taking place here.
With its many shops and cafés, The first great public event Decorated chapel, Monasterio de las
the Puerta del Sol (“Gateway was the beatification of the Descalzas Reales
of the Sun”) is one of Madrid’s city’s patron, St. Isidore, in 1621.
liveliest areas, attracting huge Perhaps the greatest occasion,
crowds. The square marks the however, was the arrival from 3 Monasterio de las
site of the original eastern Italy of Carlos III (Carlos VII of Descalzas Reales
entrance to the city, once Naples) in 1760. He became Plaza de las Descalzas 3. Tel 91-454
occupied by a gatehouse king of Spain after his half- 88 00. q Opera. Open 10am–2pm,
and a castle. brother, Fernando VI, died 4–6:30pm Tue–Sat; 10am–3pm Sun
A statue of Carlos III (reigned without an heir. Designed by & public hols. Closed Jan 1 & 6, 3
1759–88) stands at the center architect Juan Gómez de Mora, days after Easter, May 1, Dec 24, 25
of the square. On its southern the square was started in 1617 & 31. & (except Wed & Thu pm
edge is the austere Casa de for EU residents). 8
Correos, dating from the 1760s. ∑ patrimonionacional.es
Originally the city’s post office, it
later became the head quarters This religious building is a
of the Ministry of the Interior. rare surviving example of
During the Franco regime, the 16th-century architecture in
police cells below the building Madrid. Around 1560, Felipe II’s
were the site of human-rights sister, Doña Juana, decided to
abuses. Outside the building, a convert a medieval palace on
symbol on the ground marks this site into a convent.
Kilometer Zero, considered the Doña Juana’s rank accounts
center of Spain’s road network. for the massive store of art
On the opposite side of the amassed by the Descalzas
square is a bronze statue of the Reales (Royal Barefoot Sisters),
symbol of Madrid – a bear which includes a fresco of Felipe
reaching for the fruit of a IV’s family and, above the main
madroño (strawberry tree). staircase, a ceiling by Claudio
The Puerta del Sol has Facade of the Casa de la Panadería, on the Coello. The Sala de Tapices
witnessed many important Plaza Mayor contains stunning tapestries,
For hotels and restaurants see pp330–32 and pp333–5


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M ADRID  275


















The vast Palacio Real, Madrid’s 18th-century Bourbon palace
while paintings on display some interesting carved-stone adjacent antechamber hangs
include works by Brueghel the decoration, such as the striking a portrait of Carlos IV by Goya.
Elder, Titian, Zurbarán, Murillo, gargoyle-like caryatids at No. 12. Other star attractions are the
and Ribera. Further along the Gran Vía, Dining Room, with its fine
around the Plaza del Callao, are ceiling paintings and superb
a number of Art Deco buildings, Flemish tapestries, and the
4 Gran Vía including the well-known 18th-century Throne Room.
Capitol cinema and bingo hall,
q Plaza de España, Santo Domingo,
Callao, Gran Vía. built in the 1930s.
A main traffic artery of the
modern city, the Gran Vía 5 Palacio Real
was inaugurated in 1910. Calle de Bailén. Tel 91-454 88 00.
Lined with movie theaters, q Ópera, Plaza de España. @ 3,
tourist stores, hotels, and 25, 39, 148. Open 10am–8pm daily
restaurants, this grand avenue (Oct–Mar: to 6pm). Closed Jan 1 & 6,
also has many buildings of May 1 & 15, Sep 9, Dec 24, 25 & 31.
architectural interest. At the & (except Mon–Thu from two hours
Alcalá end of the street, the before closing for EU residents).
French-inspired Edificio 8 d 7 =
Metrópolis and the Edificio la ∑ patrimonionacional.es
Estrella (No. 10) are both worth
seeing. The latter is a good Madrid’s vast and lavish Palacio
example of the eclectic mix Real (Royal Palace) was Colorful ceramics for sale at El Rastro
of Neoclassical design and commissioned by Felipe V flea market
orna mental detail that was after the royal fortress that
fashionable when the street had occupied the site for 6 El Rastro
was first developed. Look out for centuries was ravaged by fire Calle de la Ribera de Curtidores.
in 1734. The palace was the q La Latina, Embajadores.
home of Spanish royalty until Open 10am–2pm Sun & public hols.
the abdication of Alfonso XIII
in 1931. Today it is used by Madrid’s famous flea market
the present king for state was established in the Middle
occasions only. Ages. Its heyday came in the
The exuberant decor of the 19th century, but today there
interior reflects the tastes of are still plenty of locals, as well
the Bourbon kings, Carlos III as tourists, who come to the
and Carlos IV. The walls and Calle de la Ribera de Curtidores
ceiling of the Porcelain Room, to browse around the many
commissioned by the former, stalls selling a huge range of
are covered in green and white wares – from new furniture
royal porcelain, which is to second-hand clothes. The
embossed with cherubs and market’s other main street is
wreaths. Named after its the Calle de Embajadores,
Neapolitan designer, the which runs down past the
One of the many 1930s Art Deco buildings Gasparini Room is equally dusty Baroque facade of the
lining the Gran Vía lavishly decorated. In the Iglesia de San Cayetano.




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276  THE IBERIAN PENINSULA


Street by Street: Paseo del Prado

In the late 18th century, before the museums and lavish
hotels of Bourbon Madrid took shape, the Paseo del
Prado was laid out and soon became a fashionable spot
for strolling. Today, the Paseo’s main attraction lies in its
museums and art galleries. Most notable are the Museo
del Prado (just south of the Plaza Cánovas del Castillo)
and the Museo Thyssen-Bornemisza, both displaying
world-famous collections of paintings. Among the
monuments built under Carlos III are the Puerta de Paseo del Prado
Alcalá, the Fuente de Neptuno, and the Fuente de Based on the Piazza Navona in Rome, the
Cibeles, which stand in the middle of busy roundabouts. Paseo was built by Carlos III as a center for
the arts and sciences in Madrid. C I B E



P L A Z A D E
C A L L E D E A L C A L A L E S
B A R Q U I L L O







Banco de CALLE DEL MARQUES
Banco de España España
Spain’s central reserve bank
is housed in this massive
C A L L E D E L O S M A D R A Z O
building with three facades
at the Plaza de Cibeles. DE CUBAS
O
D
A
R
P

L
E
D PLAZA DE LA LEALTAD
Z O R R I L L A

O
E
S
A
P
Tourist
information
. Museo Thyssen- The Congreso de los
Bornemisza Diputados, home of PLAZA DE NEPTUNO
Petrus Christus’s Our Lady the Spanish parliament, CALLE FELIPE IV
of the Dry Tree (c.1450) is witnessed the country’s
one of many early Flemish transition from dictatorship
works in this excellent art to democracy. Museo del
collection (see p281). Prado
The Plaza de Neptuno is Hotel Palace
0 meters 100 dominated by a sculpted
0 yards 100 fountain of the god Neptune
in his chariot.
For hotels and restaurants see pp330–32 and pp333–5


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M ADRID  277


Palacio de Linares
This grandly decorated
late 19th-century palace
now houses the Casa de
América, an organ ization
that promotes Latin
American culture.



Palacio de Comunicaciones . Puerta de Alcalá
Z A D E L Sculpted from granite, this
A A former gateway into the
L city is especially beautiful
P when floodlit at night.
C A L L E D E A L C A L A I N D E P E N D E N C I A

I
X
C I B E

P L A Z A D E
O
L E
S
S
N
O
F
L
A

E
D

E
L
L
I
A I
C X

C A L L E D E M O N T A L B A N
O
S
N
O
F
L
A

E
C A L L E J U A N D E M E N A D . Plaza de Cibeles
A fountain with a statue of
E
O the Roman goddess Cybele
D L stands in this square.
A L A
R C
P

L The Museo Nacional
E PLAZA DE LA LEALTAD CALLE ANTONIO MAURA
D de Artes Decorativas
Parque del was founded in 1912
O
E Retiro as a showcase for
S Spanish ceramics
A and interior design.
P
R U I Z D E A L A R C O N
PLAZA DE NEPTUNO
CALLE FELIPE IV The Monumento del Dos de
Mayo commemorates the War of
Independence against the French.
The Hotel Ritz, with
its belle-époque
interior, is one of the Salón de Reinos
most elegant hotels Key This part of the old Retiro Palace has
in the whole of Spain. some halls decorated by Velázquez.
Suggested route It is now part of the Prado Museum.
For keys to symbols see back flap
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278  THE IBERIAN PENINSULA

7 Museo Nacional del Prado

The Prado Museum houses the world’s greatest assembly of Spanish paintings from
the 12th to the 19th century, including major works by Velázquez and Goya. It also
houses impressive foreign collections, particularly of Italian and Flemish works. The
Neoclassical building was designed in 1785 by Juan de Villanueva on the orders of
Carlos III. In 2006, a fully refurbished Casón del Buen Retiro and a new building in
the cloisters on San Jerónimo’s church opened to the public. In 2009, the former
army museum (Salón de Reinos) also became part of the Prado.


. Velázquez Collection
The Triumph of Bacchus
(1629), Velázquez’s
first portrayal of
a mythological
subject, shows
the god of wine
(Bacchus) with
a group of
drunkards.



The Martyrdom
of St. Philip
(c.1639)
The Valencian José
de Ribera moved
to Naples as a
young man. He
was influenced by
Caravaggio’s use of
light and shadow,
known as chiaroscuro,
as seen in this work.







The Garden of Delights
(c.1505)
Hieronymus Bosch, known Main entrance
as El Bosco in Spanish, was
one of Felipe II’s favorite
artists, and is especially well
represented in the Prado.
This enigmatic painting is
part of a triptych depicting
paradise and hell.

Gallery Guide The museum’s facade,
dating from the 18th
The best way to enter the Prado is through the century, illustrates the
modern reception center situated between the Neoclassical move
main building and the church behind. The works toward dignity, away
are arranged in schools, with the oldest works from the excesses of
displayed on the lowest floors. The magnificent Baroque architecture.
Velázquez collection is located on the first floor,
along with other 17th-century Spanish works. Ticket office
For hotels and restaurants see pp330–32 and pp333–5


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M ADRID  279


VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
The second floor, Practical Information
the Villanveva building, Paseo del Prado.
contains collections of Tel 902-107 077.
works by Goya Open 10am–8pm daily (to 7pm
and 18th-century Sun). Closed Jan 1, May 1, Dec 25.
Spanish paintings. & free from 6pm (5pm Sun). 7
= - 0 d 8
∑ museodelprado.es
Transport
q Atocha, Banco de España.
First floor
@ 9, 10, 14, 19, 27, 34, 37, 45.







Stairs to lower floor
- m §







. Goya Collection
In The Clothed Maja and The Naked
Maja (both c.1800), Goya tackled the
taboo subject of nudity, for which he
was later accused of obscenity.



The Three Graces
(c.1635)
This was one of the
last paintings by the Flemish
master Rubens, and was part of
his personal collection. The three
Ground floor women dancing in a ring – the
Graces – are the daughters of
Zeus, and represent Love, Joy,
and Revelry.
Casón del Jerónimos
Buen Retiro Building Changes at the Prado
Underground link
The Jerónimos Building
Key to Floorplan Villanueva Building houses temporary exhibitions
Spanish painting C A L L E D E M O R E T O and Renaissance sculptures, as
Flemish and Dutch painting well as a shop, restaurant, café,
auditorium, and cloak room.
Italian painting In the future the Salón de
French painting Jerónimos Reinos may also become part
German and British painting entrance PA S E O D E L P R A D O of the Prado.
Sculpture
Museum buildings
Drawing
C A L L E D E F E L I P E I V
Non-exhibition space



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280  THE IBERIAN PENINSULA

Exploring the Prado’s Collection Italian Painting

The importance of the Prado is founded on its royal collections. The most remarkable Italian
The wealth of foreign art, including many of Europe’s finest paintings are Botticelli’s
works, reflects the historical power of the Spanish crown. The dramatic wooden panels that
Low Countries and parts of Italy were under Spanish rule for depict The Story of Nastagio
degli Onesti, Raphael’s Christ
hundreds of years. The 18th century was an era of French Falls on the Way to Calvary
influence, following the Bourbon accession to the Spanish (1516), and Christ Washing the
throne. The Prado is worthy of repeated visits, but if you go Disciples’ Feet (c.1547), by
only once, see the Spanish works of the 17th century. Tintoretto. Venetian masters
Titian – Charles V’s court
painter – and Veronese are
extreme in his painting The equally well represented. Also
Spanish Painting Adoration of the Shepherds on display are works by
Right up to the 19th century, (1612–14). Giordano, Fra Angelico,
Spanish painting focused on The Golden Age of the 17th Caravaggio, and Tiepolo,
religious and royal themes. century produced such great master of Italian Rococo.
There are a few examples of artists as José de Ribera and
Spain’s early-medieval art in the Francisco de Zurbarán. Works
Prado, such as the anonymous by both are on display in the
mural paintings from the Holy Prado. This period, however, is
Cross hermitage in Maderuelo. best represented by the work
Spanish Gothic art can be seen of Diego Velázquez, Spain’s
in the works of Bartolomé leading court painter. Examples
Bermejo and Fernando Gallego. of his royal portraits and
Renaissance features began religious and mythological
to emerge in the paintings of paintings are displayed,
Pedro de Berruguete and including his masterpiece, Las
Fernando Yáñez de la Alme- Meninas (1656), a portrait of the
dina, whose work shows the Infanta Margarita surrounded
influence of Leonardo da Vinci. by her courtiers.
Among examples of 16th-century Another great Spanish painter, From the Early Renaissance, Fra Angelico’s
Mannerism are paintings by Francisco de Goya, revived The Annunciation (c.1430)
Pedro Machuca and Luis de Spanish art in the 18th century.
Morales “the Divine.” One of His later work embraces the French and German
the great masters of this period horrors of war, as seen in The 3rd
was the Cretan-born artist El of May (1814), and culminated Painting
Greco, who made his home in in a somber series known as Marriages between French and
Toledo. The distortion of the The Black Paintings. Spanish royalty in the 17th
human figure, typical of the century brought French art to
Mannerist style, is carried to an Spain. This section contains a
Flemish and Dutch selection of works by Poussin,
Painting
Jean Ranc, Claude Lorrain, and
Exceptional Flemish works Antoine Watteau.
of art include Rogier van der German art is represented
Weyden’s masterpiece, The by Albrecht Dürer’s lively Self-
Deposition (c.1430), and some Portrait (1498), as well as by the
of Hieronymus Bosch’s major works of Lucas Cranach and the
paintings, such as the late 18th-century court painter
Temptation of St. Anthony Anton Raphael Mengs.
(c.1500) and The Haywain
(c.1485–90). Among the
16th-century paintings is the Casón del Buen Retiro
superb Triumph of Death (1562) The Casón is a study center,
by Brueghel the Elder. There are housing restoration studios, a
nearly 100 canvases by the specialist school, and an art
17th-century Flemish painter library. On weekends, there
Peter Paul Rubens, of which the are guided visits of the
greatest is The Adoration of the dome painted by Luca
Magi. The two most notable Giordano. You will need to
Dutch paintings on display are ask for permission to use the
The Adoration of the Shepherds (1612–14), both by Remb randt: Artemisia art library, as it is otherwise
by El Greco (c.1500) and a fine self-portrait. closed to the public.
For hotels and restaurants see pp330–32 and pp333–5


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M ADRID  281


century. It houses major works
by such influential artists as
Picasso, Salvador Dalí, Joan
Miró, and Eduardo Chillida.
There is also space dedicated to
post-World War II movements,
such as Abstract, Pop, and
Minimal Art.
The highlight of the
collection is Picasso’s Guernica
(1937). This Civil War protest
painting was inspired by the
mass air attack in 1937 on the
Basque village of Gernika by
Gallery at the Museo Thyssen-Bornemisza German pilots flying for the
Nationalist air force.
8 Museo Thyssen- Christus’s Our Lady of the Dry Tree
Bornemisza (c.1450), and The Toilet of Venus
(c.1629), by Peter Paul Rubens. 0 Parque del Retiro
Paseo del Prado 8. Tel 902 760 511.
q Banco de España, Sevilla. @ 1, 2, On the ground floor are two q Retiro, Ibiza, Atocha. Open daily.
5, 9, 14, 15, 20. Open noon–4pm Mon, temporary exhibition galleries 7 ∑ parquedelretiro.es
10am–7pm Tue–Sun (to 9pm on Sat with free access.
for temporary exhibitions). Closed Jan An extension has joined the
1, May 1, Dec 25. & (free Mon). 8 7 museum to two buildings in The Retiro Park formed part of
= - 0 d ∑ museothyssen.org order to display its collection of Felipe IV’s royal-palace complex.
Impressionist works, mainly All that remains of the palace is
This magnificent museum from the 19th century. the Casón del Buen Retiro (now
houses a collection of art part of the Prado museum) and
assembled by Baron Heinrich 9 Centro de Arte the Salón de Reinos (the former
Thyssen-Bornemisza and his Reina Sofía army museum).
son, Hans Heinrich. From its First fully opened to the
beginnings in the 1920s, the Calle Santa Isabel 52. Tel 91-774 10 00. public in 1869, the Retiro
collection was intended to q Atocha. @ 6, 8, 10, 14, 19, 27, 45, remains a popular place for
illustrate the history of Western 55, 60, 78. Open 10am–9pm Mon, relaxing in Madrid. The park has
art, from the 14th to the 20th Wed–Sat, 10am–2:30pm Sun (to a pleasure lake, where rowing
century. In 2004, 200 paintings 7:30pm for temporary exhibitions). boats can be hired. On one side
from the Carmen Thyssen- Closed Tue, main public hols. & of the lake, in front of a half-
Bornemisza Collection were (free from 7pm Mon, Wed–Sat, from moon colonnade, stands an
added. Among the museum’s 3:30pm Sun). 8 7 = - 0 equestrian statue of Alfonso XII.
exhibits are masterpieces by ∑ museoreinasofia.es To the south of the lake are
Titian, Goya, and Van Gogh. two attractive palaces. The
The series of Dutch and Housed in an 18th-century Neoclassical Palacio de
Flemish works is a strong point former general hospital, with Velázquez and the Palacio
of the collection. Highlights three additional modern glass de Cristal (Crystal Palace) were
include Jan van Eyck’s The buildings, this superb museum built by Velázquez Bosco in
Annunciation (c.1435–41), Petrus traces art through the 20th 1887 as exhibition venues.

















Colonnade and statue of Alfonso XII (1901) overlooking the Parque del Retiro’s boating lake




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282  THE IBERIAN PENINSULA


example, society, religion, and
communication. One of the
highlights of the museum is
the rare Mayan Códice Tro-
cortesiano (AD 1250–1500)
from Mexico – a hieroglyphic
parchment illustrated with
scenes of everyday life. Also
worth seeing are the Treasure
of the Quimbayas, pre-
Columbian gold and silver
items dating from AD 500–
1000, and the display of
contemporary folk art from
some of Spain’s former
American colonies.
Roman floor mosaic in the Museo Arqueológico Nacional
e Plaza de Toros
q Museo Steps outside the museum’s
Arqueológico entrance lead underground to de las Ventas
Nacional an exact replica of the Altamira Calle Alcalá 237. Tel 91-356 22 00.
caves in Cantabria – complete
q Ventas. Open for bullfights &
Calle Serrano 13. Tel 91-577 79 12. with their Paleolithic paintings. guided visits only. Museo Taurino:
q Serrano, Retiro. @ 1, 9, 19, 51, 74. The earliest engravings and Tel 91-725 18 57. Open 9:30am–
Open 9:30am–8pm (6:30pm Jul & Aug) drawings date back to around 2:30pm Mon–Fri, 10am–1pm Sun.
Tue–Sat, 9:30am–3pm Sun. Closed 18000 BC. The boldly colored 8 daily (687-739 032). 7
main public hols. & (free from 2pm bison paintings date from ∑ las-ventas.com
Sat & Sun). 8 7 ∑ man.mcu.es around 13000 BC.
Las Ventas is undoubtedly one
Founded by Isabel II in 1867, of the most beautiful bullrings
Madrid’s National Archaeo- w Museo de América in Spain. Built in 1929 in Neo-
logical Museum has hundreds Avde los Reyes Católicos 6. Tel 91-549 Mudéjar style, it replaced the
of fascinating exhibits, ranging 26 41. q Moncloa. Open 10am– city’s original bullring, which
from the prehistoric era to the 8:30pm Tue–Sat (Nov–Apr: to 6:30pm), stood near the Puerta de
19th century. 10am–3pm Sun. Closed some public Alcalá. Outside the bullring are
One of the highlights of hols. & (free on Sun). 7 monuments to two famous
the prehistoric section is the ∑ mecd.gob.es/museodeamerica bullfighters: Antonio
exhibition on the ancient Bienvenida and José Cubero.
civilization of El Argar (1800– This fine museum houses a Adjoining the building, the
1100 BC) – an advanced collection of artifacts relating Museo Taurino provides a
agrarian society that flourished to Spain’s colonization of the history of the rituals and contains
in southeast Spain. There is also Americas. Many of the exhibits, bullfighting memorabilia, such
a display of jewelry uncovered which date back to prehistoric as portraits and sculptures of
at the Roman settlement of times, were brought to Europe famous matadors. There is also a
Numantia, near Soria, and a by the early explorers of the display of the tools of the
5th-century BC bust, La Dama New World. The collection is bullfighter’s trade, including
de Elche. arranged thematically, with capes and banderillas – sharp
The museum’s ground floor individual rooms on, for darts used to wound the bull.
is largely devoted to the period
between Roman and Mudéjar
Spain, and contains some
impressive Roman mosaics.
Outstanding pieces from
the Visigothic period include
a collection of 7th-century
gold votive crowns from Toledo
province, known as the Treasure
of Guarrazar.
Also on show are examples
of Andalusian pottery from
the Islamic era and various
Romanesque exhibits, among
them an ivory crucifix carved
in 1063 for King Fernando I. Plaza de Toros de Las Ventas, Madrid’s magnificent bullring
For hotels and restaurants see pp330–32 and pp333–5


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The Art of Bullfighting

Bullfighting is a sacrificial ritual in which men (and a few women) pit themselves against
an animal bred for the ring. In this “authentic religious drama,” as the poet Federico
García Lorca described it, the spectator experiences the same intensity of fear and
exaltation as the matador. There are three stages, or tercios, in the corrida (bullfight). The
first two, which involve a team of men both on horseback and on foot, are aimed at
progress ively weakening the bull. In the third, the matador moves in for the kill. Despite
opposition on the grounds of cruelty, bullfighting is still very popular. For many Spaniards,
the toreo, the art of bullfighting, is a noble part of their heritage. However, fights today
are often debased by practices designed to disadvantage the bull, in particular shaving
its horns to make them blunt. Bullfighting has been illegal in Catalonia since 2012.
Manolete is
regarded by most
followers of
bullfighting as one
of Spain’s greatest
matadors. He was
finally gored to
death by the bull
The toro bravo (fighting bull), bred for Islero at Linares,
courage and aggression, enjoys a full life Jaén, in 1947.
prior to its time in the ring. Bulls must be at
least four years old before they can fight.
The matador wears
a traje de luces (suit of
lights), a colorful silk
outfit embroidered Joselito was a
with gold sequins.
leading matador,
famous for his
purist style.
He displayed
superb skill
with the
capote (red cape)
and the muleta
(matador’s stick).
Following a short
Banderillas, barbed darts, are retirement, he has
thrust into the bull’s back returned to the ruedos
muscles to weaken them. (bullring).
The Bullring
The audience at a bullfight is seated Key
in the tendidos (stalls) or in the Tendidos
palcos (balcony), where the Palcos
presidencia (president’s box) is
situated. Opposite are the puerta Presidencia
de cuadrillas, through which the Puerta de cuadrillas
matador and team arrive, and the Arrastre de toros
arrastre de toros (exit for bulls).
Before entering the ring, the Callejón
matadors wait in a callejón Barreras
(corridor) behind barreras and Burladeros
burladeros (barriers). Horses are Patio de caballos
kept in the patio de caballos
and the bulls in the corrales. Corrales
Plan of a typical bullring






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284  THE IBERIAN PENINSULA

Central Spain cathedral, aqueduct, and castle
domin ating the skyline, the
Much of Spain’s vast central plateau, the meseta, is covered view of the town from the valley
with wheat fields or dry, dusty plains, but there are many below at sunset is magical.
attractive places to explore. Spain’s largest region, Castilla y Perched on a rocky outcrop
León, has a rich history. It boasts some of the country’s most at the city’s western end is the
Alcázar, a fairytale castle with
splendid architecture, from Segovia’s famous Roman gabled roofs, turrets, and
aqueduct, to the Gothic cathedrals of Burgos and Léon, and crenellations. Begun in the 12th
the Renaissance grandeur of Salamanca’s monuments. Avila’s century, the castle assumed its
medieval city walls are a legacy of the long struggles between present form between 1410
the Christians and the Moors. Dotted with windmills and and 1455, though it had to be
medieval castles, Castilla-La Mancha is home to the historic largely rebuilt following a fire
in 1862. The castle contains a
town of Toledo, another popular destination. museum of weaponry and
several sumptuous apartments.
funerary urns of Spanish Dating from 1525, Segovia’s
monarchs. Some of the most cathedral was the last great
important works of the royal Gothic church to be built in
Habsburg collections, including Spain. It replaced the old
Flemish, Italian, and Spanish cathedral, destroyed in 1520
paintings, are housed in the when the Castilian towns
Museum of Art, located on the revolted against King Carlos I.
first floor. Other fine works of art Other churches in the old
can be found in the chapter town include the Romanesque
houses, with their fresco-adorned San Juan de los Caballeros,
ceilings, and in the basilica. which has an outstanding
In contrast to the artistic sculpted portico, San Esteban,
wealth of other parts of the and San Martín.
palace, the royal apartments Segovia’s Roman aqueduct
are remarkably humble. was built in the 1st century AD
and remained in use until the
3 Toledo late 19th century.
The Library at El Escorial, with its
16th-century frescoed ceiling See pp286–8. + Alcázar
Plaza de la Reina Victoria Eugenia.
2 El Escorial Tel 921-46 07 59. Open daily.
4 Segovia Closed Jan 5, Dec 25 & 31. & 8
El Escorial. Tel 91-890 59 02. £ from (by appt and for fee). 7
Atocha or Chamartín, Madrid. @ 661, Segovia. * 56,000. £ @
664 from Moncloa, Madrid. Open n Plaza de Azoguejo 1 (921-46 67 20).
10am–8pm Tue–Sun (to 6pm Oct– ∑ turismodesegovia.com Environs
Mar); ticket office closes 1 hour earlier. The palace of Riofrío, 11 km
Closed public hols. & (except Wed & Segovia is one of Spain’s most (7 miles) southwest of the city,
Thu pm for EU residents). 8 spectacularly sited cities. The was built as a hunting lodge for
old town is set high on a rocky Felipe V’s widow, Isabel Farnese,
Felipe II’s imposing palace of San spur, surrounded by the Eresma in 1752. Today, it houses a
Lorenzo de El Escorial was built in and Clamores rivers. With its hunting museum.
1563–84 in honor of St. Lawrence.
The austere, unornamented
building set a new architectural
style – known as “Herreriano,”
after the palace’s architect, Juan
de Herrera. Its interior was
conceived as a mausoleum and
contemplative retreat rather
than a splendid residence.
Among the most impressive
parts is the Library, with a
collection of more than 40,000
books and manuscripts. Its
ceiling is decorated with 16th-
century frescoes by Tibaldi. The
Royal Pantheon, a mausoleum
made in marble, contains the Segovia’s distinctive Alcázar, perched high above the city
For hotels and restaurants see pp330–32 and pp333–5


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SP AIN  285


magnificent Plaza Mayor was
built by Felipe V in the 18th
century to thank the city for its
support during the War of the
Spanish Succession. Among the
arcaded buildings lining the
square are the Baroque town
hall and the Royal Pavilion, from
where the royal family used to
watch events in the square.
Other fine monuments located
in the heart of the city include the
16th-century Iglesia-Convento
de San Esteban, with its lovely
ornamented facade, and the
Section of Avila’s 12th-century city walls Convento de las Dueñas,
5 Avila Alfonso IX of León in 1218. which preserves Moorish
and Renaissance features.
Avila. * 59,200. £ @ n Avenida The 16th-century facade of the The Museo Art Nouveau y
de Madrid 39 (920-35 40 00). main building on the Patio de Art Déco holds an important
las Escuelas is a splendid collection of 19th- and
The perfectly preserved medieval example of the Plateresque 20th-century paintings, jewelry,
walls that encircle this historic style. This form of early Spanish ceramics, and stained glass.
city were built in the 12th Renaissance architecture is so On the city outskirts, the
century by Christian forces as a called because of its fine detail, 1st-century AD Roman bridge,
defense against the Moors. Of which resembles ornate the Puente Romano, offers a
the nine gateways in the walls, silverwork – platero in Spanish good view over the entire city.
the most impressive is the Puerta means silversmith.
de San Vicente. Avila’s cathedral, The 16th-century, mainly P Universidad
whose unusual exterior is carved Gothic new cathedral and Calle Libreros. Tel 923-29 44 00.
with beasts and scaly wild men, the 12th- to 13th-century Open daily. Closed Dec 25.
also forms part of the city walls. Romanesque old cathedral & (except Mon am).
Avila is the birthplace of St. stand side by side. A highlight E Museo Art Nouveau y Art Déco
Teresa (1515–82), one of the of the old cathedral is the richly Calle Gibraltar 14. Tel 923-12 14 25.
Catholic Church’s greatest mystics colored altarpiece (1445) by Open Tue–Sun. Closed Jan 1 & 6,
and reformers. The Convento de Nicolás Florentino. The Dec 25. & (free Thu am). 7 =
Santa Teresa occupies the site
of the home of this saint, who
also lived for many years in the
Mon asterio de la Encarnación.
Among the city’s finest
churches are the 12th-century
Iglesia de San Vicente and
the Romanesque-Gothic
Iglesia de San Pedro.
Beyond the town center,
the beautiful Real Monasterio
de Santo Tomás contains the
tomb of Tomás de Torquemada
(1420–98), the notorious head
of the Spanish Inquisition.

6 Salamanca
Salamanca. * 155,000. k 15 km
(9 miles) E. £ @ n Plaza Mayor 32
(923-21 83 42). ∑ salamanca.es
Home to one of the oldest
universities in Europe, Salamanca
is also Spain’s best showcase of
Renaissance and Plateresque
architecture. The city’s famous
university was founded by View of Salamanca’s twin cathedrals, from the Puente Romano




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286  THE IBERIAN PENINSULA


3 Street by Street: Toledo

Picturesquely sited on a hill above the Tagus
River is the historic center of Toledo. Behind the Puerta de
old walls lies much evidence of the city’s rich Valmardón
history. The Romans built a fortress on the site of
the present-day Alcázar. In the 6th century AD,
the Visigoths made Toledo their capital, and left
behind many churches. After it was captured
from the Moors by Alfonso VI in 1085, the city
became the capital of the Christian kingdom of Iglesia de San Román
Castile. During the Middle Ages, Toledo was a This church contains
melting pot of Christian, Muslim, and Jewish a museum relating
the city’s past under
cultures, and it was during this period that the the Visigoths.
city’s most outstanding monument – its
cathedral – was built. In the 16th century, the
painter El Greco came to live in Toledo, and CALLE DE LOS ALFILERITOS
today the city is home to many of his works.
C A R D E N A L L O R E N Z A N A



E A L F O N S O X




C A L L E D


CALLE DE SAN ROMAN

. Iglesia de Santo Tomé C A L L E D E A L F O N S O X I I
This church, with a beautiful
Mudéjar tower, houses El
Greco’s masterpiece, The
Burial of the Count of Orgaz. C A L L E D E L A T R I N I D A D


CALLE DEL CARDENAL CISNEROS


Sinagoga del Tránsito and
Casa-Museo de El Greco





Archbishop’s
Palace

Taller del Moro 0 meters 100
This Mudéjar palace houses a museum 0 yards 100
of Mudéjar ceramics and tiles. It is,
however, closed for renovation with
no confirmation of an end date.
For hotels and restaurants see pp330–32 and pp333–5


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The Puerta Ermita del Cristo de la Luz VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
del Sol has This small mosque, the city’s
a double only remaining Muslim
Moorish arch building, dates from around Practical Information
Toledo. * 83,300.
and two AD 1000. n Plaza del Consistorio 1
towers.
(925-25 40 30). ( Tue.
_ Corpus Christi (May/Jun),
Virgen del Sagrario (Aug 15).
Iglesia de San Román:
Tourist information, Open Tue–Sun. Taller del Moro:
bus and train stations Closed for renovation. &
Transport
£ Paseo de la Rosa (902-320
320). @ Avenida de Castilla-
La Mancha (925-21 58 50).
The Plaza de Zocodover is
named after the market
CALLE DE LOS ALFILERITOS PLAZA DE Moorish times. It is still the
which was held here in
ZOCODOVER city’s main square, with
many cafés and shops.
L C O M E R C I O C U E S T A D E C A R L O S V


E
D

A L L E
C
. Museo de
Santa Cruz
The city’s main fine-arts
collection includes
several tapestries from
SIXTO RAMON PARRO preserved rich colors.
Flanders. Among them is
this 15th-century zodiac
tapestry, with well-



CALLE DEL CARDENAL CISNEROS





Key
Suggested route



. Cathedral
Built on the site of a Visigothic
cathedral and a mosque, this Alcázar
impressive structure is one of the In the central patio of the
largest cathedrals in Christendom fortress is a replica of the
(see p288). The beautiful Gothic statue Carlos V y el Furor. The
high altar reredos (1504) is the original is housed in Madrid’s
work of several artists. Museo del Prado.
For keys to symbols see back flap


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288  THE IBERIAN PENINSULA

Exploring Toledo one of the best examples of
Mudéjar architecture in Toledo.
Easily reached from Madrid by train, bus, or car, Toledo is
best explored on foot. To visit all the main sights you need + Alcázar
at least two days, but it is possible to walk around the Cuesta de Carlos V. Tel 925-23 88
medieval and Jewish quarters in a long morning. To avoid 00. Open 11am–5pm Thu–Tue.
& (free Sun).
the heavy crowds, go midweek and stay for a night, when Charles V’s fortified palace
the city is at its most atmospheric. stands on the site of former
Roman, Visigothic, and Muslim
fortresses. In 1936, it was
almost completely destroyed
during a 70-day siege by the
Republicans. The restored
building houses the Museo
del Ejército (National Army
Museum) and a private library,
which holds a valuable
collection of books and
manuscripts dating back
Toledo cathedral, rising above the rooftops of the medieval quarter to the 11th century.
R Cathedral and Renaissance tapestries, E Museo Sefardi
Calle Cardenal Cisneros 1. Tel 925-22 paintings, and sculptures. Calle Samuel Leví. Tel 925-22 36
22 41. Choir, Treasury, Chapterhouse, There are also works by the 65. Open Tue–Sun. & (free Sat pm
and Sacristy Open Mon–Sat, Sun pm. Cretan artist El Greco, as well as & Sun).
& 8 7 examples of two typical Toledan The Sinagoga del Tránsito, a
The splendor of Toledo’s cathedral crafts: armor and damascened 14th-century former synagogue,
reflects its history as the spiritual swords, the latter made by is the setting for this museum
heart of the Spanish church and inlaying blackened steel with dedicated to the Sephardic
the seat of the Primate of all gold wire. The museum is (Spanish Jewish) culture. The
Spain. The present cathedral housed in a fine renovated synagogue preserves a
stands on the site of a 7th- Renaissance building and wonderfully elaborate Mudéjar
century church. Work began in has an elegant courtyard. interior hidden behind a
1226, but the last vaults were not humble façade.
completed until 1493. This long R Iglesia de Santo Tomé
period of construction explains Calle Santo Tomé s/n. Tel 925-25 60 E Casa-Museo de El Greco
the cathedral’s mixture of styles: 98. Open daily. & Paseo del Tránsito. Tel 925-99 09 80.
the exterior is pure French Gothic, Visitors come to this church Open Tue–Sun. & (free from 2pm
while inside, Spanish decorative mainly to admire El Greco’s Sat & all day Sun).
styles, such as Mudéjar – a masterpiece, The Burial of the It is uncertain whether El
hybrid Christian-Islamic style – Count of Orgaz. The church is Greco actually lived in or
and Plateresque, are used. thought to date back to the simply near to this house,
Among the cathedral’s most 12th century, and its tower is now a museum containing
outstanding features are the a collection of his works.
polychrome reredos of the high Canvases include the superb
altar (1504) and the choir. In series Christ and the Apostles.
the treasury is a 16th-century On the ground floor is a chapel
Gothic silver monstrance, over with a fine Mudéjar ceiling and
3 m (10 ft) high. The monstrance works of art by painters of the
is carried through the streets of Toledan School, such as Luis
Toledo during the Corpus Tristán, a student of El Greco.
Christi celebrations. Standing
out from the mainly Gothic P Puerta Antigua
interior, the Transparente is a de Bisagra
stunning Baroque altarpiece When Alfonso VI of Castile
of marble, jasper, and bronze, conquered Toledo in 1085,
sculpted by Narciso Tomé. he entered it through this
gateway – the only one in
E Museo de Santa Cruz the city to have kept its
Calle Cervantes 3. Tel 925-22 10 36. original 10th-century military
Open daily. Closed Jan 1, May 1, Dec 25. architecture. The towers are
This museum of fine arts has The Assumption (1613) by El Greco, topped by a 12th-century
a superb collection of medieval in the Museo de Santa Cruz Arab gatehouse.
For hotels and restaurants see pp330–32 and pp333–5


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SP AIN  289


return, in 1497, from the central role in the early
second of his voyages years of the Reconquest.
to the Americas. The city’s Gothic cathedral,
Burgos’s cathedral on Plaza de la Regla, dates
(see pp290–91) is a from the mid-13th century.
UNESCO World Heritage As well as some glorious
site and the city’s most stained glass, it has a
prominent landmark. splendid west front,
Nearby, the Iglesia de decorated with a
San Nicolás boasts a series of 13th-
fine 16th-century century carvings.
The Arco de Santa María in Burgos, adorned altarpiece, while the The Colegiata de
with statues and turrets Iglesia de San Lorenzo San Isidoro is built into the
has a splendid Baroque Roman walls encircling the
7 Burgos ceiling. The Museo de city. The Romanesque
Burgos contains Panteón Real (Royal
Burgos. * 179,900. £ @ n Plaza
de Alonso Martínez 7 (947-20 31 25). archaeological and Pantheon) is
fine-art collections. decorated with
Founded in 884, Burgos was the West of the city carved capitals
capital of the united kingdoms of is the 12th-century Statue of El Cid, Burgos’s most and 12th-century
Castile and León from 1073 until Real Monasterio de famous son frescoes. León’s old
1492. A few hundred years later, Huelgas, a former quarter is a maze of
Franco chose Burgos as his convent that houses narrow alleyways,
headquarters during the Civil War. a textile museum. lined with bars, cafés, churches,
Approaching the city via the and old mansions. The Hostal de
bridge called the Puente de E Museo de Burgos San Marcos was founded in the
Santa María, you enter the old Calle Miranda 13. Tel 947-26 58 75. 12th century as a monastery for
town through the grand Arco Open Tue–Sun. & (except Sat & pilgrims on route to Santiago
de Santa María. The other main Sun). 7 (see p292). A gem of Spanish
route into Burgos is the Puente E Real Monasterio de Huelgas Renaissance architecture, the
de San Pablo, where a statue Calle de los Compases. Tel 947-20 16 present building was begun in
commemorates local hero El 30. Open 10am–2pm, 3:45–6:30pm 1513 for the Knights of Santiago.
Cid (1043–99). Born Rodrigo Tue–Sat; 10:30am–3pm Sun & public Today, it houses a luxurious hotel
Díaz de Vivar, this great warrior hols. Closed Jan 1 & 6, Good Fri, and the Museo de León.
fought for both the Moors May 1, May 30, Dec 24, 25, & 31. 8
and the Christians in the 7 & (except Wed & Thu pm for E Museo de León
Reconquest, and for his heroism EU residents). Plaza Santo Domingo 8. Tel 987-23 64
was named El Cid, from the 05. Open Tue–Sun. Closed main
Arabic Sidi (Lord). He is 8 León public hols. & (free Sat & Sun).
immortalized in the anonymous León. * 134,000. £ @ n Plaza
poem, El Cantar del Mío Cid (1180). de la Regla 4 (987-23 70 82). Environs
Not far from the statue of El To the east of León, the
Cid stands the Casa del Cordón, Founded as a camp for the 10th-century Iglesia de San
a 15th-century former palace Romans’ Seventh Legion, Miguel de Escalada is one of the
(now a bank). It was here León became the capital of finest surviving churches built
that the Catholic Monarchs the kingdom of León in the by the Mozarabs – Christians
welcomed Columbus on his Middle Ages and played a influenced by the Moors.
















Detail from a 13th-century carving decorating the west front of León’s cathedral




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290  THE IBERIAN PENINSULA


Burgos Cathedral

Spain’s third-largest cathedral was founded in 1221 under
Fernando III and was named a UNESCO World Heritage
site in 1984. The groundplan – a Latin cross – measures
84 m (276 ft) by 59 m (194 ft). Its construction was carried
out in several stages over three centuries, involving artists
and architects from across Europe. The style is almost
entirely Gothic, with influences from Germany, France,
and the Low Countries. In the Middle Ages, the cathedral
was a main stopping point for pilgrims on the road to
Santiago (see p292). Burgos’s most celebrated son, the
medieval hero of the Reconquest, El Cid, is buried in
the cathedral, as is his wife. West Front
The lacy, steel-grey spires
soar above a sculpted
balustrade depicting
Castile’s early kings.














. Golden Staircase
Diego de Siloé’s elegant Renaissance
staircase (1519–22) links the nave with
the Gothic Coroneria Gate (kept locked)
at street level.




KEY
1 The Capilla de la Presentación
(1519–24) is a funerary chapel with a
star-shaped, traceried vault.
2 Capilla de Santa Tecla
3 Tomb of El Cid
4 Capilla de Santa Ana is a
chapel with a beautiful altarpiece
(1490) by the sculptor Gil de Siloé.
The central panel shows the Virgin
with St. Joachim.
5 The Lantern is a 59 m (194 ft)
octagonal tower positioned over the
nave and crowned with eight spires.
Puerta de Santa María
6 Capilla de San Juan (main entrance)
Bautista and museum
7 Capilla de la Visitación
8 Capilla del Santísimo Cristo

For hotels and restaurants see pp330–32 and pp333–5


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SP AIN  291



Ambulatory VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
Several of the reliefs around
the chancel were carved by Practical Information
Philippe de Bigarny. This Plaza de Santa María.
expressive scene, which was Tel 947-20 47 12.
completed in 1499, depicts Open mid-Mar–Oct:
the road to Calvary.
9:30am–7:30pm daily; Nov–mid-
Mar: 10am–7pm. 5 9am, 10am,
11am, 7:30pm daily; Sun also:
noon (sung), 1pm, 2pm.
& 8 7



. Constable’s Chapel
The tomb of the High Constable of
Castile and his wife lies beneath the
openwork vault of this chapel of 1496.











Sacristy (1765)
The sacristy was rebuilt in
Baroque style, with an
exuberant plasterwork
vault and Rococo altars.












Puerta de la Coronería
The tympanum of this portal
of 1240 shows Christ flanked
by the Evangelists. Statues
of the apostles sit below.




. Crossing
The star-ribbed central
dome, begun in 1539, is
supported by four huge
pillars. It is decorated with
effigies of prophets and
saints. Beneath it is the
tomb of El Cid and his wife.




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Northern Spain There is also the Centro Gallego
de Arte Contemporáneo, with
Northern Spain encompasses a variety of landscapes and works by leading Galician artists.
cultures. In the far northwest of the peninsula, the Galicians
are fiercely proud of their customs and language. Spain’s E Centro Gallego de Arte
greenest region, Galicia boasts some of the most attractive Contemporáneo
Calle Valle Inclán s/n. Tel 981-54 66 19.
stretches of Atlantic coast, as well as the beautiful city of Open Tue–Sun. 8 by prior
Santiago de Compostela. Popular with hikers and naturalists, appointment (call 981-54 66 23). 7
the spectacular Picos de Europa massif sits astride the border
between Asturias and Cantabria. The Basque Country is a 0 Rías Baixas
unique part of Spain, whose main attractions include superb
cuisine, fashionable seaside resorts, and the cultural center Pontevedra. £ @ Pontevedra. n
of Bilbao, with its famous Guggenheim Museum. Praza da Verdura s/n, Pontevedra (986-
09 08 90).
The southern part of Galicia’s west
coast consists of four large rías, or
inlets, between pine-covered hills.
Known as the Rías Baixas (Rías
Bajas), they offer fine beaches,
safe bathing, and lovely scenery.
The main town on the coast is
lively Pontevedra, which has
many historic monuments,
such as the Gothic Convento
de Santo Domingo, and an
excellent provincial museum.
Many areas along the coast
have become popular holiday
resorts, such as Sanxenxo, west
of Pontevedra. To the south,
Baiona and Panxón both have
Santiago de Compostela’s grand cathedral, towering over the city good beaches, as well as sailing
and a variety of water sports. In
9 Santiago de place for sick pilgrims. It is now spite of tourism, much of the
Compostela a parador hotel. Nearby are the coastline, particularly the
9th-century Convento de San quieter northernmost part,
A Coruña. * 95,000. k 10 km (6 Paio de Antealtares, one of the remains unspoiled. Here you
miles) N. £ @ n Calle Rúa do Villar city’s oldest monasteries, and can visit many small fishing
63 (981-55 51 29). _ Fiesta (Jul 25). the Convento de San Martiño ports and watch the locals
∑ santiagoturismo.com Pinario, whose Baroque church harvesting mussels and clams.
has a wonderfully ornate While in Rías Baixas, look out
In the Middle Ages, this fine city Plateresque facade. for hórreos – traditional stone-
was Christendom’s third most The Convento de Santo built granaries raised on stilts.
important place of pilgrimage Domingo de Bonaval, east of The waterfront of picturesque
after Jerusalem and Rome. In the center, is also worth visiting. Combarro is lined with these
813, the body of Christ’s apostle Part of the monastery now buildings, typical of the whole
James was supposedly houses a Galician folk museum. of Galicia.
discovered here, and in the
following centuries, pilgrims
from all over Europe flocked
to the city.
On the Praza do Obradoiro
stands the city’s cathedral,
built in honor of St. James. The
present structure dates from the
11th–13th centuries, but the
Baroque west facade was added
in the 18th century. The square’s
northern edge is flanked by the
grand Hostal de los Reyes
Católicos, built by the Catholic
Monarchs (see p268) as a resting The tranquil fishing village of Combarro in the Rías Baixas
For hotels and restaurants see pp330–32 and pp333–5


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SP AIN  293


w Picos de Europa
Asturias, Cantabria, and Castilla y León.
@ Oviedo to Cangas de Onís. n
Cangas de Onís (985-84 86 14). Fuente
Dé cable car: Tel 942-73 66 10. Open
daily. Closed Jan 1 & 6; Dec 24, 25 & 31.
This beautiful mountain range –
christened “Peaks of Europe” by
returning sailors, as this was
often the first sight of their
homeland – offers superb
upland hiking and supports
a diversity of wildlife.
The two main gateways to The early 20th-century Palacio de la
Santa María del Naranco, a Pre-Romanesque the Picos are Cangas de Onís, Magdalena in Santander
church in Oviedo northwest of the park, and
Potes, on the eastern side. About style, following a fire in 1941
q Oviedo 8 km (5 miles) southeast of the that destroyed the entire town.
former, Covadonga is where, in The 12th-century crypt has
Asturias. * 225,000. £ @
n Marqués de Santa Cruz 1 (985-22 722, the Visigoth Pelayo is said to been preserved. Nearby, the
75 86). ∑ turismoviedo.es have defeated a Moorish army, Museo de Bellas Artes has
inspiring Christians to reconquer works by Goya and Zurbarán,
Oviedo, the cultural and the peninsula. The road south while the Museo de Prehistoria
commercial capital of Asturias, from Cangas de Onís follows the y Arqueología displays local
is best known for its Pre- spectacular gorge known as the finds, including Neolithic axe
Romanesque buildings. This Desfiladero de los Beyes. heads, Roman coins, pottery,
style flourished in the 8th–10th The Fuente Dé cable car, in and figurines.
centuries and was confined to the heart of the park, climbs On the Península de la
a small area of the kingdom 900 m (2,950 ft) to a rocky Magdalena stands the Palacio de
of Asturias, one of the few plateau, offering magnificent la Magdalena, built for Alfonso
areas of Spain that escaped panoramic views. XIII in 1912. The upscale seaside
invasion by the Moors. resort of El Sardinero, to the
With its huge barrel-vaulted e Santander north, has a long beach, chic
hall and arcaded galleries, the cafés, and a majestic white casino.
church of Santa María del Cantabria. * 175,700. k g £ @
Naranco, in the north of the n Jardines de Pereda (942-203 000). E Museo de Bellas Artes
city, was built as a summer _ International Festival (Jul–Aug). Calle Rubio 6. Tel 942-20 31 20.
palace for Ramiro I in the 9th Open Tue–Sun. 8
century. Equally impressive Cantabria’s capital, Santander,
are the church of San Miguel is a busy port that enjoys a E Museo de Prehistoria
de Lillo and the 9th-century splendid site on a deep bay on y Arqueología
church of San Julián de los Spain’s north Atlantic coast. The Calle Hernán Cortés 4. Tel 942-20 99
Prados, with its frescoes. cathedral was rebuilt in Gothic 22. Open Wed–Sun. & 7 8
In the center of Oviedo, the
Flamboyant Gothic cathedral
and the 9th-century Iglesia
de San Tirso are both worth
taking some time to see.
The city has two museums
of note: the Museo
Arqueológico, which contains
local prehistoric, Roman, and
Romanesque treasures, and
the Museo de Bellas Artes
(Museum of Fine Arts).
E Museo Arqueológico
Calle San Vicente 5. Tel 985-20 89 77.
Open Wed–Sun. 7
E Museo de Bellas Artes
Calle Santa Ana 1. Tel 985-21 30 61.
Open Tue–Sun. 7 19th-century Neo-Romanesque basilica in Covadonga, Picos de Europa




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294  THE IBERIAN PENINSULA


are the handsome Plaza de la
Constitución and the church of
Santa María del Coro, with its
Baroque portal. Behind the old
town, Monte Urgull is worth
climbing for the superb views
from its summit. At the foot of
the hill, the Museo de San Telmo
holds exhibits including works
by El Greco.
The Playa de la Concha is one
of the most famous beaches in
Spain. As it curves around the
Bay of La Concha, it becomes Bulls scattering the runners during
the Playa de Ondarreta, at the Sanfermines in Pamplona
end of which is Eduardo y Pamplona
Frank Gehry’s ultramodern Museo Chillida’s beautiful sculpture, the
Guggenheim building in Bilbao Comb of the Winds. The Palacio Navarra. * 196,000. k £ @
Miramar (1889), built for Queen n C/San Saturnino 2 (948-42 07 00).
r Bilbao María Cristina, is a venue for the _ Sanfermines (Jul 6–14).
Vizcaya. * 354,000. k g £ @ world-famous film festival.
n Plaza Circular 1 (944-79 57 60). Supposedly founded by the
_ Fiesta (third week Aug). E Museo de San Telmo Roman general, Pompey,
Plaza Zuloaga. Tel 943-48 15 80. Pamplona is most famous for
Bilbao (Bilbo) is the center of Open 10am–8pm Tue–Sun. the fiesta of Los Sanfermines,
Basque industry and Spain’s & (free Tue). 7 8 with its daredevil bull running.
leading commercial port, yet it West of the city’s mainly
has many cultural attractions Gothic cathedral lies the old
worth visiting. In the city’s Jewish quarter, with the Neo-
medieval quarter – the Casco classic Palacio del Gobierno
Viejo – the Museo Arqueológico, de Navarra and the medieval
Etnográfico e Histórico Vasco Iglesia de San Saturnino.
displays Basque art and folk The Museo de Navarra is a
artifacts, while in the newer town, museum of regional history,
the Museo de Bellas Artes is one archaeology, and art.
of Spain’s best art museums. Southeast of the center is
The jewel in Bilbao’s cultural Felipe II’s massive citadel,
crown, however, is the Museo erected in the 16th century.
Guggenheim Bilbao, which has
a superb collection of Modern E Museo de Navarra
and contemporary art. It is just Calle Santo Domingo. Tel 848-42 64
one of the city’s many pieces Mural by Josep Maria Sert in the Museo de 93. Open Tue–Sun. & free Sat pm,
of modern architecture, which San Telmo, San Sebastián Sun. 7 8 by appointment.
also include the striking Palacio
de la Música y Congresos
Euskalduna. Basque Culture
The Basques are one of the oldest people in Europe. Long isolated in
E Museo Guggenheim their mountain villages, they have preserved their unique language
Av Abandoibarra. Tel 944-35 90 00. (Euskera), myths, and art – almost untouched by outside influences –
Open 10am–8pm Tue–Sun (Jul & Aug: for millennia. Many families still live in the stone caseríos, or
daily). Closed public hols. & 0 8 farmhouses, built by their
d 7 ∑ guggenheim-bilbao.es
forebears. Among the most
popular exponents of Basque
t San Sebastián cultural life are the bertsolaris, oral
poets, originally from rural areas,
Guipúzcoa. * 185,000. £ @ who improvise verses and who
n Boulevard 8 (943-48 11 66). are still very popular among the
_ International Film Festival (late Sep). younger generations. Though
the Basque region has had its
Popular with the aristocracy, own parliament since 1975 (as all
San Sebastián (Donostia) other Spanish regions), there has
became a fashionable seaside always been a strong separatist The Ikurriña, the flag of the
movement seeking to sever links
resort in the late 19th century. with the government in Madrid. Basque region
At the heart of the old town
For hotels and restaurants see pp330–32 and pp333–5


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SP AIN  295

Catalonia Royal Tombs, where many
A nation-within-a-nation, Catalonia has its own semi- Spanish monarchs are buried.
Begun in 1359, they were
autonomous regional government, and its own language. reconstructed by Marès in 1950.
Spoken by more than eight million people, Catalan has
supplanted Castilian Spanish as the first language of the a Tarragona
region, and is used on road signs and in place names
everywhere. Barcelona is the region’s capital, rivaling Tarragona. * 140,000. k £ @
Madrid in economic and cultural importance. Catalonia n Carrer Major 39 (977-25 07 95).
offers a variety of attractions. The flower-filled valleys of Now a major industrial port,
the Pyrenees offer a paradise for naturalists and walkers, Tarragona preserves many
while inland are medieval towns, Roman ruins, and remnants of its Roman past,
spectacular monasteries, such as Montserrat. when it was the capital of the
Roman province, Tarraconensis.
u Parc Nacional Among the extensive ruins
are the Anfiteatro Romano
d’Aigüestortes (Roman Amphitheater) and the
Lleida. £ La Pobla de Segur. @ El Praetorium, a Roman tower that
Pont de Suert, La Pobla de Segur. was later converted into a
n Boí (973-69 61 89). medieval palace. Also known as
the Castell de Pilat (after Pontius
The pristine mountain scenery Pilate), the tower houses the
of Catalonia’s only national Museu de la Romanitat, which
park is among the most contains Roman and medieval
spectacular in the Pyrenees. finds and gives access to the
The main village in the area is cavernous passageways of the
the mountain settlement of 1st-century AD Roman circus.
Espot, on the park’s eastern In the adjacent building is the
edge. Dotted around the park Museu Nacional Arqueològic,
are waterfalls and more than The superb altarpiece at Santa Maria which holds the most important
a hundred lakes and tarns. de Poblet collection of Roman artifacts in
The most beautiful scenery is Catalonia, including some
around Sant Maurici lake, from Carlist upheavals, the abbey beautiful frescoes. An
where several walks lead north sustained serious damage. archaeological walk follows
to the towering peaks of Agulles Restoration began in 1930, and part of the Roman city wall.
d’Amitges. The park is home to monks returned a decade later. Tarragona’s 12th-century
an impressive variety of wildlife: Poblet is enclosed by fortified cathedral was built on the
chamois, beavers, otters, and walls that have hardly changed site of a Roman temple and
golden eagles have all found a since the Middle Ages. Its an Arab mosque, and exhibits
habitat here. evocative, vaulted cloisters a harmonious blend of styles.
were built in the 12th and
i Barcelona 13th centuries. Beautiful, E Museu Nacional Arqueològic
carved scrollwork decorates de Tarragona
See pp296–305. the capitals. Behind the stone Plaça del Rei 5. Tel 977-23 62 09.
altar, an impressive alabaster Open Jun–Sep: 9:30am–8:30pm Tue–
o Monestir de reredos, carved by Damià Sat; Oct–May: 9:30am–6pm Tue–Sat,
Montserrat Forment in 1527, fills the apse. 10am–2pm Sun all year. & (Oct–Jun:
free Tue). 7
Other highlights include the
See pp306–7.
p Poblet
Off N240, 10 km (6 miles) from
Montblanc. Tel 977-87 00 89. £ to
L’Espluga de Francolí, then taxi. @
Open 10am–12:45pm, 3–5:30pm
daily. Closed Jan 1, Dec 25 & 26. &
Santa Maria de Poblet was the
first and most important of
three medieval monasteries,
known as the “Cistercian
triangle.” In 1835, during the View across the Roman amphitheater at Tarragona




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296  THE IBERIAN PENINSULA



i Barcelona Greater Barcelona
Vallvidrera Terrassa
CARRER DE
Barcelona, one of the Mediterranean’s busiest ports, is TAXDIRT LLORENS I BARBA
more than the capital of Catalonia. In culture, commerce, Tibidabo B20 TRAVESSERA DE GRACIA
PLAÇA
and sport, it rivals not only Madrid, but also many of Horta DE LA VILA TRAVESSERA DE GRACIA
DE GRACIA
PLAÇA PASSEIG
Europe’s greatest cities. The success of the 1992 Olympic C16 (E9) Gervasi PLAÇA DE RASPALL CARRER CARRER DE SANT ANTONI CARRER MARIA CLARET
DEL
Sant
NARCIS
OLLER
Games, staged in the Parc de Montjuïc, confirmed this to Sabadell EIXAMPLE DE CARRER DE LA INDUSTRIA GAUDI
the world. Although there are many historical monuments Les Corts A2 Gràcia AV I N G U D A CARRER DE DE CORSEGA DE CARRER DOS
CARRER
in the Old Town, the city is best known for the scores of Diagonal Palau Baró de DE CORSEGA SANT AVINGUDA DE
DE
Quadras
superb buildings left behind by the artistic explosion of Sants A17 Verdaguer CARRER NAPOLS DEL ROSSELLO Sagrada DE
Modernisme in the decades around 1900. Today, Barcelona La Pedrera JOAN CARRER DE Família PROVENÇA MAIG
D I A G O N A L
PLAÇA DE LA
PLAÇA
still sizzles with creativity; its bars and public parks speak El Prat C3I Mataró C A R R E R RAMBLA PA S S E I G CARRER PLAÇA DE CARRER SAGRADA DE DE GAUDI MALLORCA CARTAGENA
FAMILIA
Airport
MOSSEN
more of bold contemporary design than of tradition. Fundactó CARRER CARRER CARRER CARRER VERDAGUER LEPANT
JACINT
Antoni Passeig CARRER DE VALENCIA
NII Tàpies de Gràcia
PLAÇA DE PABLO ENAMORATS
DE
CARRER D'ARAGO
D E
Illa de la D E DE CARRER D'ARAGO NERUDA PLAÇA DE LA DELS
AVINGUDA
0 km 2 Discòrdia DE HISPANITAT CARRER
PASSEIG
Sights at a Glance CARRER DEL CONSELL DE CENT DIAGONAL
1 Barcelona Cathedral 0 miles 2 B A L M E S CATALUNYA ROGER CARRER DEL DE DE DE DE LA CARRER CARRER CARRER DIPUTACIO CARRER
Monumental
2 Museu d’Història de Barcelona Key PAU DE Girona PLAÇA DE DE DE CARRER CATALANES PLACA DE
DE
3 La Rambla GRAN G R AC I A VIA DE LES TETUAN CORTS LES GLORIES
CATALANES
4 Basílica de Santa Espanya Area of main map ANTONI CARRER Universitat CLARIS LLURIA BRUC GIRONA BAILEN SANT Plaça Tetuán DE
Maria del Mar PLAÇA ROGER NAPOLS SICILIA DE
R O N D A
A VDA DE LA
DE
5 Museu Picasso REINA MARIA CRISTINA A V I N G U SANT COSTA Museu d'Art CARRER DE PELAI CATALUNYA D E CARRER DE AUSIAS CARRER DE RIBES CARRER
MARC
DELS
LA
6 Vila Olímpica Poble PLAÇA DE DE JOAQUIN Contemporani TALLERS Catalunya Urquinaona CARRER JOAN DE DE ALI -BEI DE RIBES SARDENYA CARRER DE TANGER
S A N T
L'UNIVERS
7 Sagrada Família Espanyol DE RIUS I LLEIDA D A RONDA DE VIA P E R E FLOR CARRER Estació MARINA C A R R E R
Arc de
A VINGUDA
CARRER DE SANCHO DE AVILA
pp302–3 PLAÇA DEL CARRER DE MANSO St. Antoni Palau de Triomf del Nord AV IN GUD A M E R I DIA NA
la Música
MARQUES DE CARRER Catalana CARRER PARC DE L'ESTACIO DE
DEL NORD
Palau de
8 Casa Batlló PASSEIG DE DE LA FORONDA AVDA DE LA TECNICA TAULET D E L RONDA PLAÇA la Virreina RAM B LA Palau PLAÇA LAIETANA PLAÇA DE CARRER DE ALMOGAVERS CARRER CARRER CARRER DE PALLARS
Moja
DEL
SANT PERE
9 Montjuïc Piscines LES CASCADES CARRER LAS NAVAS CARRER DEL PARLAMENT PEDRO Sant Josep DE LA VILA PLAÇA SANT PERE MES BAIX COMPANYS PASSEIG LLUIS DE DE CARRER D E
Mercat de
DE MADRID
PLAÇA DE
Poble Sec
PLAÇA
Bernat
0 Fundació Joan Miró Picornell CARRER DE FRANCA XICA DE CARRER DE L'HOSPITAL D'ANTONI AGUSTI VELL COMERÇ C. DE BUENAVENTURA MUÑOZ Marina JOAN CARRER DE PALLARS
DE SANT
PAMPLONA
MAURA
DE
DE
q Museu Nacional d’Art AVINGUDA Museu CARRER DE RADAS SANT CARRER RIERETA Liceu OLD TOWN PASSEIG DE PUJADES CARRER Bogatell D'ALABA
Arqueològic
DE
NAPOLS
DEL
de Catalunya DE CARRER DE CARRER CARRER P A R A L · L E L A Jaume I LA PRINCESA DE PICASSO CARRER D'AUSTRIA
CARRER DE
PAU
MONTJUÏC JULIA DE PAU CARRER DE SANT Gran Teatre CARRER DE FERRAN PARC DE LA MARINA ZAMORA CARRER DE LLULL D ' A V I L A
del Liceu
L'ESTADI
Greater Barcelona PLAÇA MAGALHAES D'ELCANO BLAI RAMBLA PLAÇA Casa de VIA CARRER PASSEIG DELS TIL.LERS CIUTADELLA CARRER DE
REIAL
PAMPLONA
Palau Sant DEL SOL ROSER L LA la Ciutat
CARRER DE RAMON TURRO
(see inset map) Picornell Avinguda de CARRER DEL NOU DE Palau AVINYO PASSEIG . AVENGUDA DEL BOGATELL
Miramar NOU DE LA RAMBLA Güell R A M B LA LAIETANA DE FRANCESC
CARRER
w Park Güell Estadi Olímpic PLAÇA Paral . lel Drassanes Museu Parlament de LA DE CARRER DEL DR TRUETA
de Montjuïc
e Tibidabo PLAÇA TORREFORTA PASSEIG PIQUER Reials LA de Cera PLAÇA Estació Catalunya WELLINGTON DE
PLAÇA
Drassanes
DANTE CARRERDE VILA I DEL DUC DE LOPEZ de França PAS SEIG DE CIRCUMVAL·LACIO D'ARANDA JOAN
PARC
MEDINACELI
PARC DE MONTJUÏC DE PASSEIG DE COLOM D'ANTONI Barceloneta ZOOLOGIC AVENGUDA D'ICARIA
PLAÇA DE MONTJUIC Museu
CARLOS VILA Marítim PLAÇA CARRER MIRO
DE PAU
Mirador IBAÑEZ CARNER VILA Ciutadella-
Vila Olímpica
Torre de Miramar PG DE JOSEP PORT VELL RONDA DEL LIT O R A L CARRER DE SALVADOR ESPRIU
CARRETERA DE MONTJUIC Nacional GINEBRA Platja Nova
PASSEIG DEL MIGD IA
PLAÇA DEL
Marina
DOCTOR
de Mar
Castell de Castell MIRAMAR Dàrsena Rambla Port Vell CARRER DE PONT I FREIXAS
AVINGUDA DEL CA STELL
Montjuïc CARRER DE LI T O RA L Torre MOLL D’ESPANYA PASSEIG DE JOAN DE BORBÖ PLAÇA DEL PLAÇA DE PARC Icària
DE LA
Jaume I
BARCELONETA
GENER
D E L POETA BOSCA POMPEU PASSEIG MARITIM Platja
CAMI DEL FAR R O N D A BARCELONETA Barceloneta
Platja
Barceloneta
M e d i t e r r a n e a n S e a
Torre Sant
Sebastià
Key
Sight / Place of interest
Pedestrian street
Cable car line
Motorway
Funicular railway Pedestrian swing bridge in Port Vell, at the end of La Rambla
296-297_EW_Europe.indd 296 14/07/16 2:37 pm

BARCEL ONA  297





Vallvidrera Terrassa
CARRER
DE
TAXDIRT
LLORENS I BARBA
Tibidabo TRAVESSERA DE GRACIA
B20
PLAÇA TRAVESSERA
DE LA VILA DE GRACIA
Horta DE GRACIA
PLAÇA PASSEIG
PLAÇA DE CARRER CLARET
DEL
Sant NARCIS RASPALL CARRER DE SANT ANTONI MARIA
Gervasi OLLER CARRER GAUDI
EIXAMPLE CARRER DE LA INDUSTRIA
Sabadell AV I N G U D A DE DOS
C16 (E9)
Gràcia DE DE CARRER
Les Corts A2 CORSEGA
Diagonal CARRER DE CORSEGA CARRER DE
Palau Baró de SANT AVINGUDA DE
DE
Sants A17 Quadras Verdaguer CARRER NAPOLS DEL ROSSELLO DE
La Pedrera Sagrada MAIG
Família
CARRER DE PROVENÇA
D I A G O N A L
C3I PASSEIG JOAN PLAÇA DE LA PLAÇA
SAGRADA
El Prat Mataró C A R R E R RAMBLA FAMILIA DE GAUDI
Airport CARRER PLAÇA DE CARRER DE MALLORCA CARTAGENA
MOSSEN
JACINT LEPANT
Fundactó CARRER CARRER CARRER VERDAGUER
Antoni Passeig CARRER DE VALENCIA
CARRER
NII Tàpies de Gràcia
PLAÇA DE PABLO ENAMORATS
CARRER D'ARAGO
D E
DE
Illa de la D E CARRER D'ARAGO NERUDA PLAÇA DE LA DELS
AVINGUDA
Discòrdia DE DE HISPANITAT CARRER
PASSEIG
CARRER DE DEL DE CONSELL CARRER DE CARRER CARRER CENT DIAGONAL
ROGER
CARRER DEL Girona DE DE LA DIPUTACIO CARRER Monumental
Key PAU DE PLAÇA DE DE DE CARRER CATALANES PLACA DE
B A L M E S
DE
GRAN G R AC I A VIA DE LES TETUAN CORTS LES GLORIES
CATALUNYA
CATALANES
Area of main map Universitat Plaça Tetuán
Espanya ANTONI CARRER R O N D A CLARIS LLURIA BRUC GIRONA BAILEN SANT ROGER NAPOLS SICILIA DE DE
A VDA DE LA REINA MARIA CRISTINA A V I N G U SANT COSTA Museu d'Art CARRER DE PELAI CATALUNYA D E S A N T CARRER DE AUSIAS CARRER DE RIBES CARRER
PLAÇA
DE
AV I N G UD A M E R I D IA N A
MARC
DELS
LA
PLAÇA DE
Poble L'UNIVERS DE JOAQUIN Contemporani Urquinaona JOAN DE DE CARRER DE TANGER
Espanyol A VINGUDA LLEIDA D A RONDA DE TALLERS Catalunya VIA P E R E CARRER DE FLOR ALI -BEI Estació MARINA C A R R E R
CARRER
RIBES SARDENYA
Arc de
del Nord
la Música
PLAÇA DEL DE RIUS I CARRER DE MANSO St. Antoni Palau de Triomf PARC DE L'ESTACIO CARRER DE SANCHO DE AVILA
MARQUES DE CARRER Catalana
AVDA
DE LA FORONDA PLAÇA Palau de Moja LAIETANA PLAÇA DE CARRER DEL NORD CARRER DE
PASSEIG
DE DE LA TECNICA TAULET D E L RONDA DEL la Virreina PLAÇA SANT PERE CARRER DE ALMOGAVERS CARRER CARRER DE PALLARS
DE LA VILA
LES CARRER DEL PARLAMENT PEDRO RAM B LA Palau SANT PERE MES BAIX CARRER
Mercat de
PLAÇA DE
Piscines CASCADES CARRER LAS NAVAS Poble Sec Sant Josep DE MADRID PLAÇA PLAÇA COMPANYS PASSEIG LLUIS DE DE D E
Bernat CARRER DE FRANCA XICA DE D'ANTONI DE SANT C. DE BUENAVENTURA MUÑOZ Marina JOAN CARRER DE PALLARS
Picornell CARRER DE L'HOSPITAL MAURA AGUSTI VELL COMERÇ DE PAMPLONA
Museu CARRER DE RADAS SANT CARRER RIERETA OLD TOWN NAPOLS CARRER DE DE
Arqueològic CARRER DE CARRER CARRER Liceu L A Jaume I DEL PASSEIG DE PUJADES D'AUSTRIA Bogatell D'ALABA
AVINGUDA
DE
MONTJUÏC JULIA P A R A L · L E PAU CARRER DE SANT Gran Teatre CARRER DE FERRAN CARRER DE LA PRINCESA DE PICASSO PARC DE LA CARRER MARINA ZAMORA CARRER DE LLULL D ' A V I L A
PAU
DE
L'ESTADI
PLAÇA MAGALHAES D'ELCANO BLAI del Liceu PLAÇA Casa de VIA CARRER PASSEIG DELS TIL.LERS CIUTADELLA CARRER DE
REIAL
PAMPLONA
Palau Sant DEL SOL ROSER L LA RAMBLA la Ciutat
CARRER DE RAMON TURRO
Picornell Avinguda de CARRER DEL NOU DE Palau AVINYO PASSEIG . AVENGUDA DEL BOGATELL
Miramar Güell R A M B LA LAIETANA DE FRANCESC
CARRER
Estadi Olímpic NOU DE LA RAMBLA Drassanes Museu LA DE CARRER DEL DR TRUETA
Paral . lel
de Montjuïc PLAÇA
TORREFORTA PIQUER Reials de Cera Estació Parlament de
PLAÇA PASSEIG Drassanes LA PLAÇA PLAÇA de França Catalunya WELLINGTON DE JOAN
DANTE CARRERDE VILA I DEL DUC DE LOPEZ PAS SEIG DE CIRCUMVAL·LACIO D'ARANDA
PARC
MEDINACELI
PARC DE MONTJUÏC DE PASSEIG DE COLOM D'ANTONI Barceloneta ZOOLOGIC AVENGUDA D'ICARIA
PLAÇA DE MONTJUIC Museu
PLAÇA
CARLOS VILA Marítim DE PAU CARRER MIRO
Mirador IBAÑEZ CARNER VILA Ciutadella-
Vila Olímpica
Torre de Miramar PG DE JOSEP PORT VELL RONDA DEL LIT O R A L CARRER DE SALVADOR ESPRIU
CARRETERA DE MONTJUIC Nacional GINEBRA Platja Nova
PLAÇA DEL
PASSEIG DEL MIGD IA
Marina
DOCTOR
de Mar
Castell de Castell MIRAMAR Dàrsena Rambla Port Vell CARRER DE PONT I FREIXAS
AVINGUDA DEL CA STELL
Montjuïc CARRER DE LI T O RA L Torre MOLL D’ESPANYA PASSEIG DE JOAN DE BORBÖ PLAÇA DEL PLAÇA DE PARC Icària
DE LA
Jaume I
BARCELONETA
GENER
D E L POETA BOSCA POMPEU PASSEIG MARITIM Platja
CAMI DEL FAR R O N D A BARCELONETA Barceloneta
Platja
Barceloneta
M e d i t e r r a n e a n S e a 0 meters 500 500
Torre Sant
Sebastià
0 yards
Getting Around
The Old Town is well served by metro lines 1, 3, and 4. Jaume I
metro station is in the heart of the Barri Gòtic, and many buses
pass through the Plaça de Catalunya on the edge of the district.
Metro line 5 takes you to the Sagrada Família, a long walk from
other sights. Set atop a steep hill, most of Montjuïc’s attractions
can be reached by buses 13, 50, and 150 from the Plaça
.
d’Espanya, or by funicular and cable car from Metro Paral lel.
For keys to symbols see back flap
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298  THE IBERIAN PENINSULA

Street by Street: Barri Gòtic

The Barri Gòtic (Gothic Quarter) is the true heart of Barcelona. The Casa de l’Ardiaca
This site was chosen by the Romans in the reign of Augustus (Archdeacon’s House), a
(27 BC–AD 14) to found a new colonia (town), and has been Gothic-Renaissance building
on the Roman city wall,
the location of the city’s administrative buildings ever since. now houses Barcelona’s
The Roman forum was on the Plaça de Sant Jaume, where the historical archives.
medieval Palau de la Generalitat, Catalonia’s parliament, and
the Casa de la Ciutat, the town hall, now stand. Nearby are the
Gothic cathedral and royal palace, where Columbus was
received by the Catholic Monarchs on his return from
the New World in 1492. Roman city
Plaça de wall
Catalunya




E
B
S
I TA P I N E R I A
B

L
E
D

R CARRER DELS COMTES DE BARCELONA
S A N T S E V E R E
R
R
A
A T C
. Cathedral R O
The facade and spire are 19th- N
century additions to the original O
building. The cathedral’s treasures H

include medieval Catalan paintings. T
N
A
S
Palau de la
Generalitat
The superb Gothic P L A ç A D E
features of the S A N T J A U M E
Catalan Parliament CARRER DE FARRAN C A R R E R D E J A U M E I
include the chapel
and a stone
staircase rising to
an arcaded gallery. T A T
U
I
C A
I
A R
L E
La Rambla E U
D G
A
R D
E
R R
R E
A R R
C
A
C
Casa de la Ciutat The Centre Excursionista
Barcelona’s town hall was built in the de Catalunya, housed in a
14th and 15th centuries. The facade is a medieval mansion, displays
Neoclassical addition. In the entrance Roman columns from the
hall stands Three Gypsy Boys by Joan Temple of Augustus, whose
Rebull (1899–1981), a 1976 copy of a site is marked by a millstone
sculpture he originally created in 1946. in the street outside.
For hotels and restaurants see pp330–32 and pp333–5
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