(DK Eyewitness) Travel Guide - Europe

GERM AN Y  499


Distance chart
St Petersburg,
DENMARK Gothenburg, Ventspils Distance by road in kilometers
Klaipeda, Oslo
Trelleborg, Rønne, Berlin Distance by road in miles
Helsinki Klaipeda 574
Baltic Sea Cologne
356
198 629 Dresden
Sassnitz 123 390
A7
Puttgarden 540 189 511 Frankfurt
317
117
Kiel 105 Stralsund 335
Rostock A20 285 431 483 495 Hamburg
307
117
268
300
288 294 376 354 156
Lübeck 179 183 233 220 97 Hanover
A23
96
A19
585 590 474 400 781 616 Munich
Bremerhaven Schwerin 363 366 294 248 485 382
A24
415 415 304 231 585 441 170 Nuremberg
A27 Hamburg
A31 258 258 189 143 363 274 105
Koszalin
A1 397 232 324 129 405 315 143 135
A28 629 374 522 208 652 508 231 218 Stuttgart
A29
Ems Bremen A7 A24 A11
Groningen Oder
Weser Elbe 189 BERLIN POLAND
THE A1 Hanover Potsdam A12
NETHERLANDS (Hannover) A2 A2
A30 Poznan
Amsterdam Osnabrück Braunschweig A13
A31 Bielefeld Magdeburg A9
Münster
G E R M A N Y Cottbus Wroclaw
A3 A2
A57 A14 A15
Dortmund
Essen
Rotterdam A7
Duisburg A44 Halle A13
A1
Kassel Leipzig A14 Dresden A4
A46 Düsseldorf A45 Meissen
Brussels A61 A4 Erfurt
A4 Cologne (Köln) A17
Aachen Weimar Chemnitz
Bonn A5 Prague
BELGIUM A3 4 A72
Maria A71
Laach Koblenz A73 A9
Rhine Frankfurt am Main CZECH REPUBLIC
Mosel Valley Wiesbaden
Valley A61 A3 A70 Bamberg
LUXEMBOURG Trier Mainz Würzburg Bayreuth
Prague
A6 Rothenburg ob
Mannheim der Tauber Nuremberg
Saarbrücken Neckar (Nürnberg)
Rhein Heidelberg A3
Paris A9
FRANCE Regensburg
Karlsruhe Stuttgart Kaiser-Wilhelm-Gedächtniskirche with its octagonal
Donau A92 Passau extension and bell tower, Berlin
A8
Black Forest Tübingen Ulm Augsburg
(Schwarzwald) A81
12
A7 Linz
A96 Munich (München)
0 km 75
Freiburg im A95 A8 Salzburg Key
Breisgau A8 0 miles 75
Dijon Konstanz
Neuschwanstein Highway
Lake Constance Garmisch Major road
Basel
(Bodensee) Railroad
SWITZERLAND Innsbruck AUSTRIA
International border
Ferry route
For keys to symbols see back flap
498-499_EW_Europe.indd 499 14/07/16 3:14 pm

500  GERM AN Y , A USTRIA , AND SWITZERLAND


1 Berlin Hamburg Reinickendorf 96 Pankow
Tegel 96a
Since becoming the capital of the Federal Republic Spandau Airport Wedding
of Germany following reunification in 1990, Berlin A111 A100
has become an ever popular destination for 5
2/5 2/5
visitors. The historic heart of the city is located Hamburg Mitte
around the wide avenue Unter den Linden and on
Museum Island, which takes its name from the fine 2 A100 Wilmersdorf
museums built there in the 19th and early 20th Grunewald Schöneberg
centuries. South of Unter den Linden is Checkpoint Hannover
Charlie, a legacy of Berlin’s status as a divided city Havel A115 Berlin-Schönefeld
during the Cold War. To the west are the green 1 Airport
open spaces of Tiergarten and Kurfürstendamm, Steglitz 96
the center of the former West Berlin. Farther afield, Potsdam 1 Zehlendorf Lankwitz Mariendorf
the splendid palaces of Potsdam, now almost a Leipzig 101
suburb of Berlin, are not to be missed.
The grand approach to the 18th-century Rococo
Schloss Sanssouci in Potsdam
INVALIDENSTR. CHAUSSEESTR. TORSTRASSE TORSTR.
Belvedere Rosa-Luxemburg-
Platz
ALTE
Oranienburger Oranien- ROSENTHALER STR. SCHÖNHAUSER STR.
burger str.
Str.
MIERENDORFFSTR. ALT-MOABIT Hauptbahnhof LUISENSTRASSE ORANIENBURGER STR. MOLLSTR.
TEGELER WEG
SCHLOSS- SÖMMERINGSTR. FRIEDRICHSTR. Weinmeisterstr.
PARK ALT-MOABIT MITTE Hackescher
Neuer Markt
Pavillon
Spree HANSAVIERTEL Bundestag Friedrichstr. KARL-LIEBKNECHT-STR. Alexanderplatz KARL-MARX-
Humboldt
ALLEE
SPANDAUER DAMM Bellevue SPREE WEG PAULSTRASSE Spree PLATZ DER WILHELMSTR. DOROTHEENSTR. Universität BODESTR. Marienkirche GRUNERSTR.
REPUBLIK
CAUERSTR. MARCHSTR. KLOPSTOCKSTR. Hansaplatz BELLEVUE SCHEIDEMANNSTR. PARISER UNTER DEN LINDEN Zeughaus RATHAUSSTR. Kloster ALEXANDERSTR.
SCHLOSSPARK
str.
PLATZ
CHARLOTTENBURG Richard- STRASSE DES 17. JUNI Brandenburger Französische WERDERSTR. BREITE MÜHLENDAMM STRALAUER STR.
SCHLOSS STR.
str.
ALTONAER STR.
Jannowitz-
Wagner- Tiergarten GROSSER Tor FRANZÖSISCHE STR. brücke
STR.
OTTO-SUHR-ALLEE
KNOBELSDORFFSTR. Platz Deutsche REUTER STRASSE DES 17. JUNI STERN T I E R G A R T E N Holocaust Stadt- Hausvogtei- Märkisches
ERNST-
RICHARD-WAGNER-STR.
Denkmal
KAISER- FRIE
Oper PLATZ Ernst- EBERTSTR. Mohren- mitte FRIEDRICHSTR. platz GERTRAUDEN Museum
STR.
Reuter-
KAISERDAMM Bismarckstr. Platz Museum für ALLEE HOFJÄGER- LENNÉ STR. straße WALLSTR. N.ROSS STR. BRÜCKENSTR.
SOPHIE-CHARLOTTEN-STR.
SCHILLER STR. LEIBNIZSTR. Fotographie TIERGARTE NSTRASSE POTSDAMER LEIPZIGER STRASSE
Sophie- HARDENBERGSTR. ZOOLOGISCHER PLATZ Potsdamer Spittel- Heinrich-
GARTEN
Charlotte-Platz GOETHESTR. Zoologischer STAUFFEN- Platz Checkpoint markt Heine-Str.
ZILLESTR.DRICH- STRASSE
Wilmersdorfer Garten HÖFERSTR. KLINGEL- BERGSTR. SIGISMUNDSTR. Charlie ZIMMERSTR.
Str. UHLANDSTR. BUDAPESTER ST R. REICH PIETSCHUFER RUDI- DUTSCHKE STR.
Mendelssohn-
KANTSTRASSE BREITSCHEID- Europa Bartholdy-Park WILHELMSTRASSE ORANIENSTRASSE HEINRICH-HEINE-STR.
NÜRNBERGER STR. Center
Savigny- PLATZ STRESEMANNSTR. Kochstr. LINDENSTRASSE
platz KURFÜRSTEN- STR. LÜTZOWSTR. SCHÖNEBERGER UFER FRIEDRICHSTR. KREUZBERG
KURFÜRSTENDAMM Kurfürsten- SC HILLSTR. EINEMSTRASSE POTSDAMER STR. Anhalter MUSEUM Moritz-
AM BERLIN
damm
TAUENTZIENSTR.
Bahnhof
Uhlandstr. Wittenberg Möckern- Jüdisches Prinzen- platz
Museum
Platz
LIETZENBURGERSTR. JOACHIMSTALER STR. LIETZENBURGERSTR. KLEISTSTR. HAL LE SCHES UFER MEHRING straße
brücke
PLATZ
FASANEN Kurfürstenstr. Gleisdreieck TEM PELHO FER UFER Hallesches
PLATZ BÜLOWSTR. Tor GITSCHINER STR.
BLÜCHERSTR.
Spichernstraße GROSSBEERENSTR. M Mehringdamm URBANSTR. PRINZENSTRASSE
Yorckstraße
Sights at a Glance YORCKSTRASSE YORCKSTR. MEHRINGDAM Gneisenau-
straße
1 Brandenburg Gate 0 Berliner Dom pp506–7 u Kurfürstendamm GNEISENAUSTRASSE BAERWALDSTR.
2 Reichstag q Centrum Judaicum i Sammlung Berggruen KREUZBERGSTRASSE
3 Unter den Linden & Neue Synagoge o Schloss Charlottenburg
4 Potsdamer Platz w Fernsehturm
5 Kulturforum e Nikolaiviertel Greater Berlin (see inset map)
6 Tiergarten r Kreuzberg p Grunewald
7 Altes Museum t Zoologischer Garten a Dahlem
8 Pergamonmuseum y Kaiser-Wilhelm- s Potsdam and Park Sanssouci
9 Humboldt-Box Gedächtniskirche
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BERLIN  501


Hamburg 96 Pankow
Getting Around Greater Berlin Tegel Reinickendorf 96a
Berlin’s U- and S-Bahn train 0 km 3 Spandau Airport Wedding
systems provide the quickest 0 miles 3 A111 A100
way of getting around the
city. They also serve outlying 5 2/5 2/5
areas, such as Grunewald, Hamburg Mitte
Dahlem, and Potsdam.
Buses are reliable, but slow, 2 A100 Wilmersdorf
especially during rush hour,
owing to con gestion. Trams Grunewald Schöneberg
are another option in the Hannover
east of the city, and accept Havel A115 Berlin-Schönefeld
the same tickets as the buses 1 Airport
and S-Bahn lines. Steglitz
Zehlendorf Mariendorf
96
Potsdam 1 Lankwitz
Leipzig 101
Key
Area of main map
INVALIDENSTR. CHAUSSEESTR. TORSTRASSE TORSTR.
Belvedere Rosa-Luxemburg-
Platz
ALTE
Oranienburger Oranien- ROSENTHALER STR. SCHÖNHAUSER STR.
burger str.
Str.
MIERENDORFFSTR. ALT-MOABIT Hauptbahnhof LUISENSTRASSE ORANIENBURGER STR. MOLLSTR.
TEGELER WEG
SCHLOSS- SÖMMERINGSTR. FRIEDRICHSTR. Weinmeisterstr.
PARK ALT-MOABIT MITTE Hackescher
Neuer Markt
Pavillon
Spree HANSAVIERTEL Bundestag Friedrichstr. KARL-LIEBKNECHT-STR. Alexanderplatz KARL-MARX-
ALLEE
Humboldt
SPANDAUER DAMM Bellevue SPREE WEG PAULSTRASSE Spree PLATZ DER WILHELMSTR. DOROTHEENSTR. Universität BODESTR. Marienkirche GRUNERSTR.
REPUBLIK
CAUERSTR. MARCHSTR. KLOPSTOCKSTR. Hansaplatz BELLEVUE SCHEIDEMANNSTR. PARISER UNTER DEN LINDEN Zeughaus RATHAUSSTR. Kloster ALEXANDERSTR.
SCHLOSSPARK
str.
PLATZ
CHARLOTTENBURG Richard- STRASSE DES 17. JUNI Brandenburger Französische WERDERSTR. BREITE MÜHLENDAMM STRALAUER STR.
SCHLOSS STR.
str.
ALTONAER STR.
Jannowitz-
Wagner- Tiergarten GROSSER Tor FRANZÖSISCHE STR. brücke
STR.
OTTO-SUHR-ALLEE
ERNST-
KNOBELSDORFFSTR. Platz Deutsche REUTER STRASSE DES 17. JUNI STERN T I E R G A R T E N Holocaust Stadt- Hausvogtei- Märkisches
RICHARD-WAGNER-STR.
Denkmal
KAISER- FRIE
Oper PLATZ Ernst- EBERTSTR. Mohren- mitte FRIEDRICHSTR. platz GERTRAUDEN Museum
STR.
Reuter-
KAISERDAMM Bismarckstr. Platz Museum für ALLEE HOFJÄGER- LENNÉ STR. straße WALLSTR. N.ROSS STR. BRÜCKENSTR.
SOPHIE-CHARLOTTEN-STR.
SCHILLER STR. LEIBNIZSTR. Fotographie TIERGARTE NSTRASSE POTSDAMER LEIPZIGER STRASSE
Sophie- HARDENBERGSTR. ZOOLOGISCHER PLATZ Potsdamer Spittel- Heinrich-
GARTEN
Charlotte-Platz GOETHESTR. Zoologischer STAUFFEN- Platz Checkpoint markt Heine-Str.
ZILLESTR.DRICH- STRASSE
Wilmersdorfer Garten HÖFERSTR. KLINGEL- BERGSTR. SIGISMUNDSTR. Charlie ZIMMERSTR.
Str. UHLANDSTR. BUDAPESTER ST R. REICH PIETSCHUFER RUDI- DUTSCHKE STR.
Mendelssohn-
KANTSTRASSE BREITSCHEID- Europa Bartholdy-Park WILHELMSTRASSE ORANIENSTRASSE HEINRICH-HEINE-STR.
NÜRNBERGER STR. Center
Savigny- PLATZ STRESEMANNSTR. Kochstr. LINDENSTRASSE
platz KURFÜRSTEN- STR. LÜTZOWSTR. SCHÖNEBERGER UFER FRIEDRICHSTR. KREUZBERG
KURFÜRSTENDAMM Kurfürsten- SC HILLSTR. EINEMSTRASSE POTSDAMER STR. Anhalter MUSEUM Moritz-
AM BERLIN
damm
TAUENTZIENSTR.
Bahnhof
Uhlandstr. Wittenberg Möckern- Jüdisches Prinzen- platz
Museum
Platz
LIETZENBURGERSTR. JOACHIMSTALER STR. LIETZENBURGERSTR. KLEISTSTR. HAL LE SCHES UFER MEHRING straße
brücke
PLATZ
FASANEN Kurfürstenstr. Gleisdreieck TEM PELHO FER UFER Hallesches
PLATZ BÜLOWSTR. Tor GITSCHINER STR.
BLÜCHERSTR.
Spichernstraße GROSSBEERENSTR. M Mehringdamm PRINZENSTRASSE
URBANSTR.
YORCKSTR. GNEISENAUSTRASSE
Yorckstraße MEHRINGDAM Gneisenau-
straße
YORCKSTRASSE
KREUZBERGSTRASSE BAERWALDSTR.
Key
Sight / Place of interest
0 meters 750 Pedestrian street
0 yards 750
For keys to symbols see back flap
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502  GERM AN Y , A USTRIA , AND SWITZERLAND
















The imposing Brandenburg Gate at Pariser Platz, at the western end of Unter den Linden
1 Brandenburg its arches, and it was the site of a fire destroyed the main hall.
Gate celebrations marking the birth Rebuilding work undertaken
of the Deutsches Reich in 1871. between 1957 and 1972
Pariser Platz.  Brandenburger Tor. It was here, too, that the Soviet removed the dome and most
@ 100, TXL. flag was raised in 1945. of the ornamentation on
Restored between 1956 the façades. On December 2,
The Brandenburg Gate is the and 1958, for the next 30 years 1990, the Reichstag was the
quintessential symbol of Berlin. the gate stood watch over the first meeting place of a newly-
This magnificent Neoclassical divided city, until the fall of elected Bundestag following
structure was designed by the Berlin Wall in 1989. It was German reunification.
Carl Gotthard Langhans and renovated once again in 2002. The latest rebuilding project,
modeled on the Propylaia of the completed in 1999 to a design
Acropolis in Athens (see p4). It 2 Reichstag by Sir Norman Foster,
was erected between 1788 and transformed the Reichstag into
1791, although the sculptural Platz der Republik.   Branden- a modern meeting hall crowned
decorations were not completed burger Tor. @ 100. Tel 030-2273 2152. by an elliptical glass dome.
until 1795. Pavilions frame its Dome & Assembly Hall: Open daily.
simple Doric colonnade, and Closed Dec 24 & Dec 31. 8 3 Unter den Linden
bas-reliefs on the entablature
above the columns depict Built to house the German  Brandenburger Tor. @ 100, TXL.
scenes from Greek myth. The Parliament, the Reichstag
structure is crowned by the was intended as a symbol of One of the most famous
famous sculpture of a quadriga national unity and to showcase streets in Berlin, Unter den
– a chariot drawn by four the aspirations of the new Linden was once the route
horses – designed by Johann German Empire, declared in to the royal hunting grounds
Gottfried Schadow. 1871. Constructed between that were transformed into
The Brandenburg Gate has 1884 and 1894, the Neo- the Tiergarten. In the 17th
witnessed many important Renaissance building by Paul century, it was planted with
historical events. Military Wallot captured the prevailing lime trees, to which it owes
parades and demonstrating spirit of German optimism. On its name.
workers have marched under the night of February 27, 1933, In the 18th century, Unter
den Linden became the main
street of the westward-growing
city. It gradually filled with
prestigious buildings, such as
the Baroque Zeughaus, home
of the Deutsches Historisches
Museum, and the Humboldt
Universität (1753). Next door,
the Neue Wache (1816–18)
commemorates the victims
of war and dictatorship.
Since reunification, many
buildings have been restored
and Unter den Linden has
acquired several cafés and
restaurants, as well as smart
new shops. The street is also
The Reichstag, crowned by a dome designed by Sir Norman Foster the venue for outdoor events.
For hotels and restaurants see pp546–8 and pp549–51


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BERLIN  503

4 Potsdamer Platz The first building to go up
  Potsdamer Platz. was the Philharmonie (Berlin
Philharmonic concert hall), built
Before the onset of World War II, to an innovative design by Hans
Potsdamer Platz was one of the Scharoun in 1961. Most of the
busiest and most densely built- other plans for the Kulturforum
up areas of Berlin. Most of the were realized between 1961
area’s landmarks ceased to exist and 1987. With many museums
after the bombing of 1945, and and galleries, the area attracts
the destruction was completed millions of visitors every year.
when the burned-out ruins The Kunstgewerbemuseum
were finally pulled down to (Museum of Arts and Crafts)
build the Berlin Wall. holds a rich collection of
Since the mid-1990s, a new decorative art and crafts dating
financial and business district from the early Middle Ages to
has sprung up on this the modern day. Goldwork is
empty wasteland, which very well represented, and
once divided East and the museum takes
West Berlin. The huge great pride in its late
complex comprises Gothic and A tranquil stretch of water in Berlin’s
not only office Renaissance silver. 19th-century Tiergarten
buildings, but The Gemäldegalerie 6 Tiergarten
also a concert hall, a fine art collection is
multi-screen cinema, in a modern building  Tiergarten, Bellevue. @ 100, 200.
and the Arkaden designed by Heinz
shopping mall. Hilmer and Christopher Situated at the center of the city,
The first finished Sattler. Works by German the Tiergarten is the largest park
structure was the Silver and ivory tankard from Renaissance artists, in Berlin occupying a 210-ha
Daimler-Benz- the Kunstgewerbemuseum including Albrecht (520-acre) area. Once a hunting
Areal office block, Dürer and Hans reserve, the forest was trans-
designed by Holbein, dominate formed into a landscaped park in
Renzo Piano and Christoph the exhibition space, but the 1830s. A triumphal avenue
Kohlbecker. To the north lies there are also pieces by van was built at the end of the 19th
the impressive Sony-Center Dyck, Rembrandt, Raphael, century, lined with statues of the
complex, by Helmut Jahn. Velázquez, and Caravaggio. nation’s rulers and statesmen.
Housed in a striking building World War II inflicted huge
5 Kulturforum with a flat steel roof over a glass damage on the Tiergarten,
including the destruction of the
hall, the Neue Nationalgalerie
  Potsdamer Platz. Tel 030-266 contains mainly 20th-century triumphal avenue. Replanting
3666. Kunstgewerbemuseum: Open art, but begins with artists of the has restored the garden, and
Tue–Sun. Closed first Tue after Easter, late 19th century, such as Edvard many of its avenues are now
Whitsun, Oct 1, Dec 24, 25 & 31. & Munch and Ferdinand Hodler. lined with statues of national
7 Gemäldegalerie: Open Tue–Sun. Paintings from the Die Brücke celebrities, including Goethe.
Closed first Tue after Easter, Whitsun, movement include pieces by To the east of the
May 1, Dec 24, 25 & 31. & 7 Neue Ernst Ludwig Kirchner and Karl Tiergarten is the Holocaust
Nationalgalerie: Open Tue–Sun. & 7 Schmidt-Rottluff. The museum is Denkmal. Designed by architect
shut until 2020 for a revamp; key Peter Eisenman, this wave-
The idea of creating a new works will be shown elsewhere. like monument represents
cultural center in West Berlin the overwhelming scale of
was first mooted in 1956. the Holocaust.













The Philharmonie, with the later addition of the Kammermusiksaal (1984–7) in front, part of the Kulturforum




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504  GERM AN Y , A USTRIA , AND SWITZERLAND


acropolis of ancient Pergamon
in Asia Minor (closed for
restoration until 2019). Also
impressive is the 2nd-century
market gate from the Roman
city of Miletus.
Major excavations begun
in the 1820s form the basis of
the Museum of Near Eastern
Anti quities (Vorderasiatisches
Museum). One striking exhibit is
the splendid Ishtar Gate, built
during Nebuchadnezzar II’s
reign (604–562 BC) in ancient
Babylon. There are also pieces
from neighboring Persia, Syria,
Mosaic from Hadrian’s Villa (2nd century AD), at the Altes Museum and Palestine, including a basalt
sculpture of a bird from Tel Halaf
7 Altes Museum Hadrian’s Villa near Tivoli, and and a glazed wall relief from
Am Lustgarten. Tel 030-266 3660. Perikles’ Head, a Roman copy of Artaxerxes II’s palace in Susa,
 Hackescher Markt. v M1, M4, M5, the sculpture by Kresilas that capital of the Persian Empire. In
M6. @ 100, 200. Open daily. & stood at the entrance to the 1904, the history of the Museum
Acropolis in Athens. of Islamic Art (Museum für
The Altes Museum, designed by Islamische Kunst)
Karl Friedrich Schinkel, is one of 8 Pergamon- began with a large
the world’s finest Neoclassical collection of
structures, with an impressive museum carpets donated
87-m- (285-ft-) high portico Bodestraße 1–3 (entrance from Am by Wilhelm von
supported by Ionic columns. Kupfergraben). Tel 030-266 3666.  Bode, who also
The stately rotunda is decorated Hackescher Markt, Friedrichstrasse. brought a 45-m
with sculptures and ringed by @ 100, 200, TXL. Open daily. Closed (150-ft) section of
a colonnade. Jan 1, first Tue after Easter and the facade of a
Officially opened in 1830, this Pentecost, Dec 24, 25 & 31. & 7 Jordanian desert
was one of the first purpose-built palace. Another
museums in Europe, designed Built between 1912 and 1930 fascinating exhibit
to house the royal collection of to a design by Alfred Messel is a beautiful
paintings and antiquities. and Ludwig Hoffmann, the 13th-century Persian relief,
Following World War II, the Pergamonmuseum is one of mihrab (Islamic Pergamon-
building was used to display Berlin’s major attractions. Its three prayer niche). museum
temporary exhibitions. Since large independent collections
1998 the Altes Museum has form one of Europe’s most 9 Humboldt-Box
housed a portion of the Antiken- famous archives of antiquities. Humboldt-Box Schloßplatz 5. Tel
sammlung, a magnificent A highlight of the Greek and 01805 -030 707.  Alexanderplatz,
collection of Greek and Roman Roman antiquities collection Hackescher Markt. v M4, M6, M8. @
antiquities. Among the highlights (Antikensammlung) is the huge 100, 200. Open daily.
are a colorful floor mosaic from Pergamon Altar from the
This information center overlooks
Berlin’s largest building site, the
Humboldt-Forum, where the
Berliner Stadtschloss, a palatial
18th-century residence of the
Hohenzollerns that was pulled
down after World War II, is being
reconstructed. It will house the
Dahlem museums (see p510), a
library, and part of Humboldt
University. Highlights of the info
center include a model of early
20th-century Berlin and displays
on the city’s turbulent past.
0 Berliner Dom
Relief carving of Athena from the Pergamon Altar, Pergamonmuseum See pp506–7.
For hotels and restaurants see pp546–8 and pp549–51


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BERLIN  505


w Fernsehturm
Panoramastraße.   Alexanderplatz.
v M4, M6, M8. @ 100, 200, 248.
Open daily.
Known as the Telespargel, or
toothpick, by the locals, this
368 m (1,206 ft) high television
mast soars above the massive
Alexanderplatz. It is the tallest
structure in Germany and one
of the tallest in Europe.
The concrete shaft contains
elevators that carry passengers
to the viewing platform.
The splendidly reconstructed gilded domes Situated inside a steel-clad giant
of the Neue Synagoge sphere, this platform is 203 m
(666 ft) above the ground.
q Centrum Visitors can also enjoy a bird’s-
Judaicum & Neue eye view of the whole city while
Synagoge sipping a cup of coffee in the
revolving café. Visibility can
Oranienburger Straße 28 & 30. reach up to 40 km (25 miles).
Tel 030-8802 8316 (Centrum
Judaicum).  Oranienburger Straße. Berlin’s massive Fernsehturm, towering
v 1, M1, M6. Open Sun–Thu, Fri am. e Nikolaiviertel over the city
Open Jewish festivals. &  Alexanderplatz, Klosterstraße.
 Alexanderplatz. @ 100, 200, 248, controversial, attempt at
Occupying the former premises M48, TXL. recreating a medieval village.
of the Jewish community council, Today, the area consists mostly
the Centrum Judaicum contains This small area on the bank of newly built replicas of historic
an extensive library, archives, and of the Spree, known as the buildings. The narrow streets
a research center all devoted to Nikolaiviertel (St. Nicholas are filled with small shops,
the history and cultural heritage Quarter), is a favorite strolling cafés, bars, and restaurants,
of Berlin’s Jews. Next door, the ground for both Berliners and among them the popular Zum
restored rooms of the Neue tourists. Some of Berlin’s oldest Nussbaum, a historical inn that
Synagoge are used as a museum, houses stood here until they was once located on Fischer
exhibiting material relating to were destroyed in World War II. Island. Dating from 1507, the
the local Jewish community. The redevelopment of the original building was destroyed,
The building of the New area, carried out between and subsequently reconstructed
Synagogue was started in 1979 and 1987, proved to be at the junction of Am Nuss-
1859 and completed in 1866, an interesting, if somewhat baum and Propststraße.
when it was opened in the
presence of Chancellor Otto
von Bismarck. The narrow
facade is flanked by a pair of
towers and crowned with a
dome that sparkles with gold
and contains a round vestibule.
This fascinating structure was
Berlin’s largest synagogue.
However, on November 9, 1938,
it was partially destroyed during
the infamous “Kristallnacht”
(“Night of the Broken Glass”),
when thousands of synagogues,
cemeteries, and Jewish homes
and shops all over Germany
were looted and burned. The
building was damaged further
by Allied bombing in 1943, and
was finally demolished in 1958.
Reconstruction began in 1988
and was completed in 1995. Riverside buildings of the Nikolaiviertel




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506  GERM AN Y , A USTRIA , AND SWITZERLAND


0 Berliner Dom

This Protestant cathedral was built by Jan Boumann
between 1747 and 1750 on the site of a Dominican
church. It incorporated the crypt of the Hohenzollern
dynasty, which ruled the city for nearly 500 years,
and is one of the largest of its kind in Europe. The
present Neo-Baroque structure is the work of Julius
Raschdorff and dates from 1894–1905. The central
copper dome reaches 98 m (322 ft), with an inner
cupola which is 70 m (230 ft) high. Following severe
damage sustained in World War II, the building has
been restored in a simplified form, including the
dismantling of the Hohenzollern memorial chapel,
which originally adjoined the northern wall.

Philipp der Großmütige
At the base of the arcade
stand statues of church
reformers and princes who
supported the Reformation.
The statue of Philip the
Magnanimous, Landgrave
of Hesse (1509–67) is the
work of Walter Schott.


. Church Interior
The impressive, richly-decorated
interior was designed by Julius
Raschdorff at the turn of the
20th century.
















Sauer’s Organ
The organ, the work of Wilhelm
Sauer, has an exquisitely carved
case. The instrument contains
some 7,200 pipes.
Main
entrance
. Hohenzollern Sarcophagi
The imperial Hohenzollern family crypt,
hidden beneath the floor of the cathedral,
contains 100 richly decorated sarcophagi,
including that of Prince Friedrich Ludwig.
For hotels and restaurants see pp546–8 and pp549–51


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The Four Evangelists VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
Mosaics depicting the
Four Evangelists Practical Information
decorate the ceilings Am Lustgarten.
of the smaller niches Tel 030-20 26 91 19.
in the cathedral. They ∑ berlinerdom.de
were designed by Open 9am–8pm Mon–Sat,
Woldemar Friedrich.
noon–8pm Sun (Oct–Mar: until
7pm). & 5 10am & 6pm Sun.
Transport
 Hackescher Markt.
@ 100, 200.

The Resurrection
The stained glass in the
windows of the apses,
designed by Anton von
Werner, shows scenes from
the life of Jesus.

















KEY
1 Figures of the Apostles
2 The Pulpit, an example of
elaborate Neo-Baroque design, is
part of the cathedral’s ornate decor
dating from the early 20th century.
3 The main altar, saved from
the previous cathedral, is the work
of Friedrich August Stüler and dates
from 1850.











. Sarcophagi of Friedrich I
and his Wife
Both of these were designed by
Andreas Schlüter. The sculpture
on Sophie Charlotte’s
sarcophagus depicts death.




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508  GERM AN Y , A USTRIA , AND SWITZERLAND


r Kreuzberg
Checkpoint Charlie: Friedrichstraße
43–45. Tel 030-253 7250. 
Kochstraße. @ M29. Open 9am–
10pm daily. & Jüdisches Museum:
Lindenstraße 14.  Hallesches Tor,
Kochstraße. @ 248. Tel 030-2599
3300. Open 10am–10pm Mon,
10am–8pm Tue–Sun.
Kreuzberg is an area of contrasts,
with luxury apartments next to
dilapidated buildings. The
district’s attractions are its wealth
of restaurants and Turkish bazaars,
as well as a wide selection of
theaters, cinemas, and galleries.
Checkpoint Charlie was Zoologischer Garten, home to over 1,400 animal species
once the notorious border
crossing between the Soviet t Zoologischer After World War II, the ruins
and American sectors, and Garten were removed, leaving only
witness to a number of Hardenbergplatz 8 or Budapester the massive front tower, at the
dramatic events during the Straße 34. Tel 030-254 010. base of which the Gedenkhalle
Cold War. The museum close   Zoologischer Garten. (Memorial Hall) is situated. This
by, Haus am Checkpoint @ 100, 204, 249 & many others. hall documents the history of
Charlie, houses exhibits Open daily. & the church and contains some
connected with the ingenious of the original ceiling mosaics,
attempts by East Germans The Zoological Garden forms marble reliefs, and liturgical
to escape to the West. part of the Tiergarten and dates objects. The latter include the
The imaginative architecture from 1844, making it the oldest Coventry Crucifix, a modest
of the Jüdisches Museum, zoo in Germany. It offers a cross fashioned from nails
dedicated to Jewish history number of attractions, including found in the ashes of Coventry
and art, conveys something the monkey house, which Cathedral, England, which was
of the tragic history of the contains a family of gorillas, and destroyed in the bombing
millions of Jews who lost their a specially darkened pavilion raids of the 1940s.
lives in the Holocaust. The for observing nocturnal animals. In 1963, Egon Eiermann
zigzag layout recalls a torn The hippopotamus pool has a designed a new octagonal
Star of David, while the interior glazed wall that enables visitors church in blue glass. His
arrangement is dominated to watch these enormous hexagonal bell tower stands
by a long empty area, which creatures moving through the on the site of the former nave
symbolizes the void left in water. The aquarium, one of of the destroyed church.
Europe by the exile and murder the largest in Europe, contains
of countless thousands of Jews. sharks, piranhas, and unusual
animals from coral reefs. There
is also a huge terrarium with an
overgrown jungle that is home
to a group of crocodiles.
y Kaiser-Wilhelm-
Gedächtniskirche
Breitscheidplatz. Tel 030-218 5023.
 Zoologischer Garten,
Kurfürstenstraße.  Zoologischer
Garten. @ 100, 200, X9. Gedenkhalle:
Open Mon–Sat, Sun pm. &
The damaged roof of this
former church has become one
of the best-known symbols
of postwar Berlin. The vast
Neo-Romanesque building was
Berlin Wall sculpture at entrance to consecrated in 1895, but was New and old bell towers of the
Haus am Checkpoint Charlie destroyed by bombs in 1943. Kaiser-Wilhelm-Gedächtniskirche
For hotels and restaurants see pp546–8 and pp549–51


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BERLIN  509

o Schloss of the Porzellankabinett has
Charlottenburg walls lined with fine Japanese
and Chinese porcelain.
Spandauer Damm. Tel 030-3209 1440.
 Richard-Wagner-Platz, Sophie- The Neuer Flügel, the new
Charlotte-Platz.  Westend. wing of the palace, used
@ 109, 309, M45. 4 Schlossbrücke. to house the Galerie der
Open Tue–Sun. 8 compulsory Romantik. The former private
on ground floor. & apartment of Friedrik the Great,
it now has displays of the king’s
The palace in Charlottenburg was exquisite furniture. The Neuer
intended as a summer residence Flügel and the upper floor can
for Sophie Charlotte, Elector be visited independently.
Friedrich III’s wife. Construction The Orangery was originally
A bustling outdoor café on the began in 1695 to a design by used to protect rare plants
Kurfürstendamm Johann Arnold Nering. Between during the winter, but in the
u Kurfürstendamm 1701 and 1713, the palace was summer months was used as a
scene for festivities by the court.
enlarged, and a Baroque cupola
 Kurfürstendamm. @ 204, 249, and an orangery were added. It has been rebuilt and is now a
M0, M19, M29, M46, X10. Subsequent extensions were concert and events venuel.
undertaken by Frederick the The park surrounding the
This wide avenue was Great (King Friedrich II), who palace is one of the most
established in the 1880s on added the Neuer Flügel (New picturesque places in Berlin.
the site of a former track that Wing) between 1740 and 1746. Among the fine monuments
led to the Grunewald forest (see Restored to its former dotted around the grounds are
p510). It quickly acquired many elegance after World War II, the Neoclassical Neuer Pavillion
imposing buildings and grand the palace’s richly decorated (New Pavilion), whose interior is
hotels. In the 20 years between interior is unequalled in Berlin. furnished in period style, and
World Wars I and II, the In the central section of the the Belvedere (1788), housing a
Ku’damm, as it is popularly palace, the mirrored gallery large collection of porcelain.
called, was renowned for its
cafés, visited by famous film
directors, writers, and painters.
After World War II, new
buildings replaced the
damaged houses, but this did
not change the character of the
street. Elegant shops and pretty
cafés still attract a chic crowd.
Not far from here is the city’s
newest photography museum,
the Museum für Fotographie.

i Sammlung
Berggruen
Schlossstraße 1. Tel 030-326 9580.
 Richard-Wagner-Platz, Sophie-
Charlotte-Platz.  Westend. @ 109,
309, M45. Open 10am–6pm Tue–Sun.
& 7
Heinz Berggruen assembled this
art collection dating from the
late 19th and first half of the 20th
centuries. The museum is known
for its large array of paintings,
drawings, and gouaches by Pablo
Picasso. There is also a display of
more than 20 works by Paul
Klee and paintings by Van Gogh,
Braque, and Cézanne. The
Sammlung Scharf-Gerstenberg
opposite covers the Surrealists
and their predecessors. Central tower and 18th-century cupola of Schloss Charlottenburg




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510  GERM AN Y , A USTRIA , AND SWITZERLAND


which nowadays houses a Kunst (Museum of Far Eastern
very good restaurant, was Art), now known together as
constructed in 1905. the Museum of Asian Art, to
the Nordamerica Ausstellung
(Exhibition of Native North
a Dahlem American Cultures).
 Dahlem Dorf. @ 101, 110, X11, Not far from the Museums-
X83. Museumszentrum: Tel 030-266 zentrum, the Museum
424242. Open Mon–Fri. Europäischer Kulturen
specializes in European folk
First mentioned in 1275, art and culture. Among the
by the 19th century Dahlem exhibits you can expect to
had grown from a small village see are earthenware items,
into an affluent, tranquil city costumes, jewelry, toys,
suburb. At the beginning of and tools.
the 20th century, a number Domäne Dahlem is a rare
of museums, designed by oasis of country life in the
Bruno Paul, were built. They Berlin suburbs. This Baroque
were extended considerably manor house (c.1680) boasts
in the 1960s, when the splendid period interiors,
Restaurant in the Forsthaus Paulsborn in Museumszentrum was created while the 19th-century farm
the Grunewald to rival East Berlin’s Museum buildings and courtyard host
Island (see pp504–6). regular artisans’ markets.
p Grunewald Highlights from this cluster There is also a petting zoo
 Grunewald. @ 115. Jagdschloss of museums include bronzes for children.
Grunewald: Tel 030-813 3597. from Benin in West Africa and The elegant Functionalist
Open Apr–Oct: 10am–6pm Tue–Sun; gold Inca jewelry from South building occupied by the
Mar, Nov, & Dec: weekends only. America at the Ethnologisches Brücke-Museum was built
Closed Jan & Feb. Museum (Museum of by Werner Düttmann in
Ethnography). The other 1966–7. Today, the museum
Just a short S-Bahn ride from collections range from the houses German Expressionist
central Berlin lie the vast forests Museum für Indische Kunst paintings by members of the
of the Grunewald, bordering (Museum of Indian Art) and artistic group known as Die
some of the city’s most elegant the Museum für Ostasiatische Brücke (The Bridge).
suburbs. Once the haunt of
politicians, wealthy industrialists,
and renowned artists, some of
the villas here now serve as the
headquarters of Berlin’s
academic institutes.
On the shore of the
picturesque Grunewaldsee
is the Jagdschloss Grunewald,
one of the oldest civic buildings
in Berlin. Built by Elector
Joachim II in 1542, it was
reconstructed in the Baroque
style around 1700. Inside the
small palace is Berlin’s only
surviving Renaissance hall,
which houses canvases by
Rubens and van Dyck among
others. Opposite the Jagdschloss,
the Jagd zeugmagazin (Hunting
Museum) holds displays of
historic hunting equipment.
Just 4 km (2 miles) away is
the Wald museum, the only
museum devoted to forest
life in the Berlin area.
To the southwest of the
Grunewaldsee is Forsthaus
Paulsborn. This rather
picturesque hunting lodge, The combined museum and working farm of Domäne Dahlem
For hotels and restaurants see pp546–8 and pp549–51


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BERLIN  511

s Potsdam and Park Sanssouci VISITORS’ CHECKLIST

An independent city close to Berlin, Potsdam has almost Practical Information
160,000 inhabitants and is the capital of Brandenburg. The first Brandenburg. * 160,000.
documented reference to the town dates from AD 993; it was n Brandenburger Straße 3
Tel 0331-27 55 80.
later granted municipal rights in 1317. The town blossomed in ∑ potsdam.de
the 1600s, during the era of the Great Elector, and then again in Transport
the 18th century, when the splendid summer palace, Schloss £ from Bahnhof Zoo, Berlin to
Sanssouci, was built for Frederick the Great. Potsdam suffered Potsdam-Stadt.  @ v
badly in World War II, particularly on April 14 and 15, 1945,
when the Allies bombed the town’s center.
P Holländisches Viertel
Friedrich-Ebertstraße/Kurfürstenstr./
Hebbelstr./Gutenbergstr. @ 138, 601,
602, 603, 604 & many others.
The Dutch Quarter features stores,
galleries, cafés, and beer cellars,
especially along Mittelstraße. The
area was built up in the early
1700s, when Dutch workers,
invited by Friedrich Wilhelm I,
began to settle in Potsdam.
Today, you can still see the
pretty red-brick, gabled houses
that were built for them.
P Filmpark Babelsberg
A Russian-style wooden house in the charming Alexandrowka district Großbeerenstraße. Tel 0331-721 2750.
Open mid-Apr–Oct: daily Closed Mon
Exploring Potsdam P Schloss Cecilienhof in May & Sep. &
Despite its wartime losses, today Am Neuen Garten. Tel 0331-969 4244. This film park was laid out on
Potsdam is one of Germany’s @ 692, 695. Open Tue–Sun. the site of the film studios where
most attractive towns. Tourists Schloss Cecilienhof was built Germany’s first movies were
flock to see the magnificent for the Hohenzollern family made in 1912. From 1917, the
royal estate, Park Sanssouci (see between 1914 and 1917. In studios belonged to Universum-
pp512–13), to stroll in the Neuer July 1945 the palace played Film-AG, which produced some
Garten, which boasts its own an important role in history, of the most renowned movies of
grand palaces, and to see the when it served as the venue the silent era, such as Fritz Lang’s
pretty Alexandrowka district for the Potsdam Conference – futuristic Metropolis (1927). Later,
and the historic Dutch quarter. an event that played a major Nazi propaganda films were also
part in establishing the political made here. The studio is still in
P Marmorpalais balance of power in Europe operation today, but part of the
Am Ufer des Heiligen Sees (Neuer following the end of World complex is open to the public.
Garten). Tel 0331-969 4550. @ 692, War II. Today, it is a museum Visitors can see old film sets,
695. Open May–Oct 31: Tue–Sun; as well as a hotel. special effects demonstrations,
Nov 1–Apr: Sat & Sun. and stuntmen in action.
The Marmorpalais (Marble P Alexandrowka
Palace) is located on the edge Russische Kolonie Allee/ Puschkinallee.
of the lake in the Neuer Garten, @ 604, 609, 638, 639. v 92.
a park northeast of Potsdam’s A trip to Alexandrowka, in the
center. Completed in 1791, the northeast of the city, takes
grand Neoclassical building the visitor into the world of
owes its name to the Silesian Pushkin’s fairy tales. Wooden log
marble that decorates its facade. cabins, set in their own gardens,
The rooms in the main part of form a charming residential
the palace contain Neoclassical estate. The houses were built in
furnishings from the late 18th 1826 for singers in a Russian
century, including Wedgwood choir established to entertain
porcelain and furniture from the military troops. Peter Joseph
workshops of Roentgen. The Lenné was responsible for the
concert hall in the right wing, overall appearance of the estate,
whose interior dates from the named after the Tsarina, the Original film prop on display at the
1840s, is particularly impressive. Prussian Princess Charlotte. Filmpark Babelsberg




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512  GERM AN Y , A USTRIA , AND SWITZERLAND

Park Sanssouci

The enormous Park Sanssouci, covering an area of 287 hectares
(709 acres), is among the most beautiful palace complexes in
Europe. The first building to be constructed, Frederick the
Great’s Schloss Sanssouci, was built on the site of an orchard
in 1745–7. Its name – sans souci is French for “without a care” –
gives an indication of the building’s flamboyant character. Over
the years, the park has been enriched by other palaces and
pavilions. Today, the park is made up of small gardens dating
from different eras, all maintained in their original style.
Communs (1766–9)
This house for the palace staff
has an unusually elegant
character, and is situated
next to a pretty courtyard.








. Neues Palais
The monumental New Palace,
constructed in 1763–1769, is
crowned by a massive dome.
Bas-reliefs on the triangular
tympanum depict figures from
Greek mythology.


0 meters 200
0 yards 200










KEY
1 The Chinesisches Teehaus
(Chinese Teahouse) features
an exhibition of exquisite Oriental
porcelain.
2 The Römische Bäder (Roman
Baths) date from 1829 and include
a mock-Renaissance villa and a suite
of Roman-style rooms.
3 The Lustgarten (pleasure
garden) has a symmetrical layout Schloss Charlottenhof
lined with rose beds. The most interesting interior
of this Neoclassical palace is
4 Neue Kammern the Humboldt Room, also
5 Bildergalerie (art gallery) called the Tent Room due to
its resemblance to a marquee.
For hotels and restaurants see pp546–8 and pp549–51


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BERLIN  513


VISITORS’ CHECKLIST P Neues Palais
Am Neuen Palais. Tel 0331-969 4202.
Practical Information @ 605, 606, 695. Open Wed–Mon.
Chinesisches Teehaus: & 8
Ökonomieweg (Rehgarten). This imposing Baroque palace
Tel 0331-969 4202. Open May– was begun at the request of
Oct: Tue–Sun. Communs: Am Frederick the Great in 1763.
Neuen Palais. Römische Bäder: Decorated with hundreds of
Lenné-Strasse (Park Charlotten- sculptures, the vast two-story
hof). Tel 0331-969 4202. building contains more than 200 The elegant Baroque exterior of the Neue
Open May–Oct: Tue–Sun.
richly adorned rooms. Especially Kammern
Transport unusual is the Grottensaal
Schopenhauerstraße/Zur (Grotto Salon), where man-made Friedrich Schinkel and Ludwig
Historischen Mühle. @ 612, 614, stalactites hang from the ceiling. Persius in 1829, in the style of
695. Chinesisches Teehaus:. @ a Roman villa. The rear of the
606, 695. v 94, 96. Communs: P Schloss Sanssouci palace has a portico that opens
@ 605, 606, 695. Römische Zur Historischen Mühle. Tel 0331-969 out onto the garden terrace.
Bäder: @ 605, 606. v 91, 94. 4200. @ 612, 614, 695. v 94, 96. Some of the wall paintings,
Open Tue–Sun. & 8 produced by Schinkel, are still
Schloss Sanssouci is an enchan- in place.
ting Rococo palace, built in
1745–7. Frederick the Great P Neue Kammern
made the original sketches for Zur Historischen Mühle (Lustgarten).
the building. The walls of the Tel 0331-969 4200. @ 612, 614, 695.
Konzertzimmer (Concert Hall) Open Apr–Oct: Tue–Sun. & 8
are lined with paintings by Originally built as an orangery
Antoine Pesne. The greatest for Schloss Sanssouci in 1747,
treasures are the paintings the Neue Kammern (New
of fêtes galantes by Antoine Chambers) was remodeled
Watteau (1684–1721), a favorite as guest accommodations
artist of Frederick the Great. in 1777. The most impressive
Orangerie of the building’s four elegant
This Neo-Renaissance palace, P Orangerie Rococo halls is the Ovidsaal,
the largest in the park, was Maulbeerallee (Nordischer Garten). with its rich reliefs, vast mirror,
built in the mid-19th Tel 0331-969 4200. @ 695. and marble floors.
century to house Open Apr: Sat & Sun; May–Oct:
foreign royalty Tue–Sun. E Bildergalerie
and guests.
The highlight of this guest Zur Historischen Mühle. Tel 0331-969
house is the Raphael Hall, 4200. @ 612, 614, 695. Open May–
which is decorated with copies Oct: Tue–Sun. &
of works by the great Italian Constructed between 1755
Renaissance artist. The view and 1764 to a design by J.G.
from the observation terrace Buring, the Bildergalerie holds
extends over Potsdam. an exhibition of paintings
once owned by Frederick
P Schloss Charlottenhof the Great. Highlights include
Geschwister-Scholl-Strasse. Caravaggio’s Doubting Thomas
Tel 0331-969 4200. @ 606. v 94, 96. (1597), and Guido Reni’s
Open May–Oct: Tue–Sun. Cleopatra’s Death (1626), as
This small Neoclassical well as a number of works
palace was designed by by Rubens and van Dyck.


. Schloss Sanssouci
The oldest building in
the complex, this palace
contains the imposing
Marmorsaal (Marble Hall),
decorated with pairs of
columns made from Carrara
marble. Frederick the Great
wanted the room to be
based on the Pantheon
in Rome (see p382).




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514  GERM AN Y , A USTRIA , AND SWITZERLAND

Eastern Germany

Closed to the West for over 40 years of Communist rule, Eastern
Germany is now fast rebuilding its reputation as an attractive
tourist destination. The powerful duchy of Saxony, whose
rulers were also Electors and, in the early 18th century, kings
of Poland, has left behind a rich cultural heritage for visitors to
explore. After Berlin, the area’s main attractions are Dresden,
the ancient capital of Saxony, the old university town of Leipzig,
and the important cultural center of Weimar in Thuringia.

2 Dresden bombing raids on the city.
Today, meticulous restoration Vermeer’s Girl Reading a Letter,
Saxony. * 535,000. k 15 km work is in progress to return the Gemäldegalerie Alte Meister
(9 miles) N. £ @ 4 n Neumarkt 2, city to its former glory.
QF passage, near Frauenkirche (0351- The most celebrated building The Zwinger is an imposing
501 501). ∑ dresden.de in Dresden is the Frauenkirche. Baroque building constructed
The landmark Church of Our in 1709–32 with a spacious
One of Germany’s most Lady (1726–43) was left in courtyard surrounded on all
beautiful cities, Dresden ruins during the Communist sides by galleries housing
blossomed during the 18th era to serve as a reminder of several museums, including
century, when it became a World War II damage but the Gemäldegalerie Alte
cultural center and acquired reconstruction began after Meister. This contains one
many magnificent buildings. reunification. The church was of Europe’s finest art collections,
Almost all of these, however, finally reconsecrated in with works by Antoine Watteau,
were destroyed during World 2005, and now serves as a Rembrandt, van Eyck, Velázquez,
War II, when Allied air symbol of reconciliation Vermeer, Raphael, Titian, and
forces mounted vast between former Albrecht Dürer.
carpet- warring nations. The 19th-century Sächsische
Staatsoper (Saxon State Opera)
has been the venue for many
world premieres, including
The Flying Dutchman and
Tannhäuser by Wagner, as well
as works by Richard Strauss.
Dresden’s Residenzschloss
was built in stages from the late
15th to the 17th centuries. The
palace now houses some of the
most beautiful art collections
in Eastern Germany. The
Verkehrsmuseum has been a
museum of transportation since
1956. The Residenzschloss also
houses the famous Grünes
Gewölbe, a vast royal treasury.
Once part of the town’s
The Baroque Wallpavilion, part of the Zwinger building in Dresden fortifications, the Brühlsche

Rebuilt from the Ashes
Once known as the “Florence of the north,” Dresden was one of the
most beautiful cities in Europe. Then, on the night of February 13,
1945, 800 British aircraft launched the first of five massive firebomb
raids on the city made by Allied air forces. The raids completely
destroyed the greater part of the city, killing over 35,000 people,
many of whom were refugees. The rebuilding of Dresden began
soon after the war, when it was decided to restore the Zwinger
and other historic buildings, and create a new city of modern
developments on the levelled land around the old city center.
Much of Dresden has now been reconstructed, though some The center of Dresden after Allied
reminders of the city’s destruction remain. carpet-bombing

For hotels and restaurants see pp546–8 and pp549–51


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GERM AN Y  515

4 Weimar
Terrasse was subsequently
transformed into magnificent Thuringia. * 65,000. £ @
gardens by Heinrich von Brühl. n Markt 10 (03643-7450).
Offering splendid views over ∑ weimar.de
the Elbe river, it is known as
“the balcony of Europe.” The Weimar rose to prominence
Albertinum houses several due to the enlightened
magnificent collections, sponsorship of its rulers,
including the Gemäldegalerie particularly Duke Carl Augustus
Neue Meister, which holds and his wife Anna Amalia in the
paintings from the 19th and 18th century. Former residents
20th centuries. These include include Goethe, Schiller, and
landscapes by Caspar David Nietzsche, as well as the
Friedrich, canvases by the designers of the Bauhaus
Nazarene group of painters, School, founded here in 1919.
and works by Degas, van Weimar is fairly small, and most
Gogh, Manet, and Monet. of its museums are in the town
On the banks of the Elbe center. To the north stands the
stands Schloss Pillnitz, the Neues Museum, which holds a
charming summer residence of The lofty Neoclassical interior of the large collection of modern art.
Augustus the Strong. The main Nikolaikirche, Leipzig The nearby Stadtmuseum is
attraction is the park, laid out in devoted to Weimar’s history,
English and Chinese styles. Thomaskirche (1482–96), while the Goethe-Museum
where he was choirmaster displays items associated with
E Gemäldegalerie Alte Meister from 1723. It now contains his the famous writer.
Theaterplatz 1. Tel 0351-4914 2000. tomb. The Bacharchive und The Neoclassical Deutsches
Open 10am–6pm Tue–Sun. & Bachmuseum houses items Nationaltheater, built in
relating to the composer. 1906–7, was the venue for the
Environs The 16th-century Nikolai- world premiere of Wagner’s
Meissen, 19 km (12 miles) kirche (Church of St. Nicholas) Lohengrin. In 1919 the National
northwest of Dresden, is famous was redecorated in Neoclassical Congress sat here to pass the
for its porcelain manufacture. style in 1784–97. The grand new constitution for the
The Albrechtsburg is a vast Renaissance Altes Rathaus Weimar Republic.
fortified hilltop complex with (Old Town Hall), built in only The vast ducal castle, Weimar
a cathedral and a palace once nine months in 1556, is now Schloss, has original interiors
used by the Electors. Europe’s the municipal museum. The and fine paintings by Albrecht
first porcelain factory was set Museum der Bildenden Künste Dürer, Peter Paul Rubens, and
up in the palace in 1710 but has an excellent collection of Claude Monet. Also known
moved to premises in Talstrasse German masters, including works as the Grünes Schloss (Green
in 1865. Documents relating to by Caspar David Friedrich and Castle), the Herzogin-Anna-
the history of the factory and Lucas Cranach the Elder, as well Amalia Bibliothek was
examples of its products are on as van Eyck, Rubens, and Rodin. converted into the duchess’
display in the palace rooms. The Grassimuseum complex library in 1761–6. It has a
houses three collections: a splendid Rococo interior. Set
+ Albrechtsburg museum of ethnography, in attractive Belvedere Park,
Domplatz 1. Tel 0351-470 70. a museum of applied arts, the ducal summer residence of
Open daily. & and a large collection of Schloss Belvedere (1761–6)
musical instruments. has fine collections of
3 Leipzig E Museum der Rococo decorative art
and vintage vehicles.
Saxony. * 539,000. k £ @ Bildenden Künste
n Katharinenstr. 8 (0341-710 42 60). Katharinenstr. 10. Tel 0341- + Weimar Schloss
∑ leipzig.de 216 99. Open Tue–Sun Burgplatz 4. Tel 03643-54 59
(Wed: noon–8pm). 60. Open Tue–Sun. &
Leipzig is not only one of
Germany’s leading com mercial
towns, but also a center of
culture and learning. Most of
the interesting sights can be
found in the old town, including
Europe’s biggest train station,
the Hauptbahnhof.
Lovers of Johann Sebastian
Bach’s music can visit the Weimar Schloss with its tall Renaissance tower




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516  GERM AN Y , A USTRIA , AND SWITZERLAND

Bavaria 7 Würzburg

Bavaria is the largest state in the Federal Republic of Germany. * 124,000. £ n Marktplatz 9,
Falkenhaus (0931-37 23 98).
Ruled by the Wittelsbach dynasty from 1180, the duchy of ∑ wuerzburg.de
Bavaria was elevated to the status of a kingdom in 1806. In
addition to historic cities, fairy-tale castles, and exquisite Baroque Located on the bank of the Main
river, Würzburg is an important
and Renaissance palaces, the region has more than its fair share cultural and commercial center,
of glorious Alpine scenery, beer halls, and colorful festivals. and home of the excellent
Franconian wine.
Romanesque and early French- The city’s most impressive
Gothic styles. The eastern choir landmark is the Residenz, where
contains the famous equestrian Würzburg’s prince-bishops lived
statue of the “Bamberg Rider” from 1744. A highlight of this
(1225–30), whose identity lavish Baroque palace is the
remains a mystery to this day. huge Treppenhaus (staircase),
The west side of Domplatz is by Balthasar Neumann (1687–
flanked by the Alte Hofhaltung, 1753). Above it is a glorious
the former bishop’s residence. ceiling fresco by the Venetian
Built in the 15th and 16th artist, Giovanni
The auditorium of Bayreuth’s centuries, it houses a Battista Tiepolo.
Markgräfliches Opernhaus museum of local history. Before the
The more recent Baroque Residenz was
5 Bayreuth Bishop’s Palace (1763) built, the city’s
* 71,000. £ n Opernstrasse 22 stands behind prince-bishops
(0921-885 88). _ Richard-Wagner- the cathedral. resided in the fortress
Festspiele (Jul–Aug). ∑ beyreuth- Also on known as the Festung
tourismus.de Domplatz is the Marienberg, which has
Neue Residenz stood on a hill over-
Music lovers associate this city (1695–1704), with its looking the river since
with the German composer richly decorated 1210. The Mainfränk-
Richard Wagner (1813–83), who apartments. Inside, Bamberger Reiter isches Museum,
lived here from 1872. The Villa the Staatsgalerie has (Bamberg Rider) in the housed inside the
Wahnfried was built for Wagner a collection of old city’s cathedral fortress, illustrates the
by Carl Wölfel and today houses German masters. history of the town
a museum dedicated to the On the east side of and holds a number
famous musician. Nearby, the the town, the Altes Rathaus, of works by the renowned
Franz-Liszt-Museum occupies originally Gothic in style, was German sculptor Tilman Riemen-
the house where the Hungarian remodeled in 1744–56 by Jakob schneider (1460–1531).
composer died in 1886. Michael Küchel. Würzburg’s cathedral, the
Other sights of interest in Dom St. Kilian, dates from 1045
Bayreuth include the Mark- P Neue Residenz and is one of Germany’s largest
gräfliches Opernhaus, the lavish Domplatz 8. Tel 0951-519 390. Romanesque churches. North
Baroque opera house, dating Open daily. & of it is the 11th-century basilica
from the mid-18th century, and Neumünster. Its imposing
the Neues Schloss. Built for Baroque dome and
Margravine Wilhelmine in the sandstone facade are
1700s, the palace has splendid 18th-century additions.
Baroque and Rococo interiors Dating from the 13th
and English-style gardens. century, the picturesque
Rathaus (Town Hall) has
6 Bamberg a late-Renaissance tower,
added 1660.
* 71,000. £ n Geyerswörth-
straße 3 (0951-297 62 00). P Residenz
∑ bamberg.info Residenzplatz 2. Tel 0931-35 51
70. Open daily. &
Bamberg’s most interesting + Festung Marienberg
historical monuments are 8 Apr–Oct: 11am, 2pm, 3pm,
clustered around Domplatz, 4pm Tue–Fri, 10am, 11am, 1pm,
including the magnificent 2pm, 3pm, 4pm Sat & Sun. &
Cathedral of St. Peter and Mainfränkisches Museum:
St. George. Begun around 1211, Neumann’s stunning Treppenhaus (staircase) at Tel 0931-205 940.
the cathedral combines the late Würzburg’s Residenz Open Tue–Sun. &
For hotels and restaurants see pp546–8 and pp549–51


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GERM AN Y  517

8 Rothenburg ob
der Tauber
* 11,000. £ n Marktplatz 2
(09861-40 48 00).
∑ tourismus.rothenburg.de
Encircled by ramparts, Rothenburg
is a perfectly preserved medieval
town in a picturesque setting
on the banks of the Tauber river.
At the heart of the town is
Marktplatz, whose focal point
is the Rathaus (Town Hall),
combining Renaissance and
Gothic styles. Off the main square,
St. Jakobs Kirche (1373–1464)
and the Franziskanerkirche both
contain many historical treasures. Rothenburg’s Rathaus (Town Hall), built in the 14th century
Two museums of note are the
Reichsstadtmuseum, devoted massive 15th and 16th-century celebrated Renaissance painter
to the town’s history, and the ramparts. A short walk away is lived in 1509–28. Copies of a
Mittelalterliches Museum, which the Germanisches National- wide selection of his works
contains a large collection of museum. Founded in 1853, are on display here.
medieval instruments of torture. the museum houses a superb A climb up Burgstraße
Through the Burgtor, a gate- collection of antiquities from brings you to the Kaiserburg,
way in the city walls, you arrive the German-speaking world, the imperial castle complex.
at the Burggarten – pretty including masterworks by The oldest surviving part
gardens offering great views. Tilman Riemenschneider, Lucas is a pentagonal tower, the
Cranach the Elder (1472–1553), Fünfeckturm, which dates
9 Nuremberg and Albrecht Dürer (1471–1528). from 1040. At its foot is the
Kaiserstallung (Imperial Stables),
Overlooking the bustling
* 486,000. k £ n Königstraße Lorenzer Platz, the Gothic St. now a youth hostel.
93 (0911-233 60). ∑ tourismus. Lorenz-Kirche is one of the city’s At the Christkindlmarkt, the
nuernberg.de most important churches. Begun lively Christmas fair held during
in 1270, it boasts some glorious Advent in the Hauptmarkt, you
The largest town in Bavaria after stained-glass windows. can warm yourself with a glass of
Munich, Nuremberg (Nürnberg) As you cross over the Pegnitz hot red wine spiced with cloves
flourished in the 15th and 16th to the north side of town, look and buy locally made crafts.
centuries, when many out for the Heilig-Geist-Spital
prominent artists, craftsmen, (Hospital of the Holy Spirit), E Germanisches
and intellectuals worked here, which dates from 1332 and Nationalmusuem
making it a leading European spans the river. Kartaüsergasse 1. Tel 0911-13 310.
cultural center. The city is A major landmark north of Open Tue–Sun. &
divided in two by the Pegnitz the river is the Frauenkirche, E Albrecht-Dürer-Haus
river. In the southern half, the commissioned by the Holy Albrecht–Dürer-Straße 39. Tel 0911-
mighty Frauentor is one of Roman Emperor Charles IV in 231 25 68. Open Tue–Sun (Jul–Sep:
several gateways in the the mid-14th century. Also of daily). & 8
importance is the Albrecht-
Dürer-Haus, where the














The half-timbered buildings of Nuremberg’s Kaiserburg at the top of Burgstraße




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518  GERM AN Y , A USTRIA , AND SWITZERLAND


0 Munich Nuremberg 9 Freimann
Munich
Airport
Founded in 1158, Munich became the capital of Bavaria in the 16th century. The Moosach 304
town rapidly overshadowed once powerful neighbors, such as Augsburg and
Ober-
Nuremberg, to become southern Germany’s main metropolis. The period of greatest menzing
growth was in the 19th century, when the Gern
city was developed along Neoclassical Nymphen- 2R
lines. Many of the grand buildings burg Schwabing Bogenhausen
around Königsplatz and along SCHELLINGSTRASSE Neuhsn.
Ludwigstrasse date from this time. As HESSSTRASSE AMALIENSTRASSE Hauptbahnhof 2R 94
well as historic monuments, Munich LUISENSTRASSE PROF.- Laim
Ludwig-
has first-class museums and Maximilians- HUBER- VETERINÄRSTR.
PLATZ
Universität
excellent shopping. THERESIEN- STRASSE SCHELLINGSTRASSE Universität Landsberg 96 hausen am Laim
Haid-
Berg
It also hosts the ARC I S S TRA S S E TÜRKENSTRASSE Ludwigskirche
world-famous Paläonto- Museum “Reich AMALIENSTRASSE
logisches
annual beer Museum der Kristalle” KAULBACHSTRASSE Giesing Salzburg
festival, the WAGNER- STRASSE LUISENSTRASSE GABELSBERGERSTRASSE Pinakothek der
AUGUSTENSTRASSE Galerie im BARER S TRAS S E LUDWI G S TRAS S E GARTEN
Oktoberfest. Moderne ENGLISCHER
Lenbachhaus
Staatsbibliothek
RHEINBERGER-
STRASSE
Propyläen AMALIENSTRASSE THERESIENSTRASSE Bayerische
KÖNIGSPLATZ
FÜRSTENSTR.
Königsplatz KATHARINA-VON-BORA-STR. SCHÖNFELDSTRASSE KÖNIGINSTRASSE ROSEN-
TÜRKENSTRASSE
Antiken- LERCHENFELDSTRASSE B USCHSTR.
K.-DÖPFNER-STRASSE
Palais
sammlungen KAROLINEN- Pinakothek D. NATIONALSOZ. OSCAR-VON-MIL LER-RING TANN-STR. HAHNEN- STRASSE der Kunst
VON-DER
GLÜCKSTRASSE
Haus
PLATZ
KARLSTRASSE
JÄGERSTRASSE
Prähistorische
PLATZ
Basilika D. OPFER STRASSE ODEONS- GALERIESTR. Staatssammlung
FINKEN-
St. Bonifaz KARLSTRASSE BARER STRASSE MAX-JOSEPH-STRA. OTTOSTRASSE BRIENNERSTRASSE PLATZ Odeons- Neue Staats- PRI N ZRE G O ETTIN G E N S TR A S S E REITMORSTRASSE AM GRIES
WITTELS-
HOFGARTEN
BACHER-
kanzlei
PLATZ
platz
Theatiner-
ALEXANDRASTR. S S E
Sights at a Glance OTTOSTRASSE MAXIMILIANSPLATZ SALVATOR- kirche HOFGARTENSTR. ST RAU S S - R I NG PILOT YSTR. SEITZSTRASSE BRUDERSTRASSE ENT E N S TR A Schackgalerie
PLATZ
Siemens-
UNSÖLDSTR.
museum
Preysing
1 Residenz pp520–21 LENBACH- Salvatorkirche Palais RESIDENZSTR. LIEBIG- Luitpoldbr.
STRASSE
PLATZ
WAGMÜLLER-
2 Frauenkirche Karlsplatz Dreifaltig- PRANNERSTR. Erzbischöf- Marstall SEITZSTRASSE Anna- ST.- STRASSE REITMORSTR.
keitskirche
3 Marienplatz Künstler- PACELLISTR. PROMENADE- K.-FAULHABER-STR. liches THEATINERSTR. ST.-ANNA-STR. ANNA-
kirche
PLATZ
Palais
MAX-
Palais
4 Stadtmuseum haus MAXBURGSTRASSE PLATZ Porcia JOSEPH- Anna TRIFTSTR.
PLATZ
PERUSA-
5 Asamkirche KARLS- HERZOG-MAX-STR. St. Michaels- LÖWENGRU MAFFEISTR. STRASSE MARSTALLSTR. S C H A R N AGL-RIN G Klosterkirche Lehel R.-KOCH-STR. W I D E N M AYE R S T RA S S E a r
PLATZ
6 Glyptothek Karlsplatz kirche ETTSTR. Dt. Jagd- und SCHÄFFLERSTRASSE Palais Törring- KOSTTOR BÜRKLEINSTR. S TE RN S T RA S S E I s
AM
Bürger-
7 Alte Pinakothek Karlstor saalkirche NEUHAUSER STR. Münzhof Regierung von THIERSCH- STRASSE
Fischerei-
Oberbayern
DIENERSTRASSE
museum
Neues
8 Neue Pinakothek Augustinerbraü FRAUEN- WEINSTRASS Jettenbach Alter Hof PFISTERSTR MAXI MI LIAN S T RA S S E
Rathaus
PLATZ
9 Pinakothek der Moderne HERZOGSPITALSTRASSE KAUFINGER-STRASSE Wein- SPARKASSENSTR. Kammer-
spiele
stadtl
0 Deutsches Museum DAMENSTIFT- kirche STRASSE Hofbräuhaus HILDEGARDSTRASSE Völkerkunde- Maximiliansbr.
museum
HOTTERSTR.
q Bayerisches Nationalmuseum STRASSE Damenstifts- Marienplatz Rathaus STRASSE KNÖBELSTR. PRATER
Altes
LEDERER-
FÜRSTENFELDER
STRASSE
w Englischer Garten S O N N E N S T RA S S E JOSEPHSPITALSTR. Rufini Hauser RINDERMARKT HOCHBRÜCKEN- HERRNSTRASSE KNÖBELSTRASSE
ALTHEI MER ECK FÄRBERGRABEN
Heilig-
Kreuz- HACKENSTR. St. Peter geistkirche IM TAL MARIENSTR. T H . - W I M M E R - R I N G ADELGUNDEN- STRASSE PRATERINSEL -INSEL
Kirche
Greater Munich (see inset map) kirche OBERANGER ROS ENTAL DREIFALTIGKEITS- RADLSTE Isartor MANNHARDT- THIERSCHSTRASSE
HERZOG- WILHELM-STR.
PETERSPLATZ
e Olympiapark SENDLINGER STRASSE Ignaz VIKTUALIENMARKT PLATZ STRASSE Mariannenbr.
WESTENRIEDERSTRASSE
Kabelsteg
r Schloss Nymphenburg Sendlinger OBERANGER Günther F RAUE N S T R . ISARTOR- Isartor STEINSDORFSTRASSE
Haus
PLATZ
Tor OBERANGER THIERSCHSTR. WEHRSTEG
Sendlinger RUMFORDSTR ASSE
Tor UNTERER ANGER RUMFORD- REICHENBACHSTRASSE ZWEIBRÜ CKENSTR.
B L U M E NSTRASSE BUTTERMELCHERSTRASSE MORASSISTRASSE AUF DER INSEL
STRASSE
HERZOG-WILHELM-STRASSE
AVENTINSTR.
Key MÜLLERSTRASSE GÄRTNER- Ludwigsbr.
PLATZ
MUSEUMSINSEL
Sight / Place of interest Theater BAADERSTRASSE ERHARDTSTRASSE
im Fraunh.
Pedestrian street KLENZESTRASSE
Europäisches Boschbr.
Patentamt Zenneckbr.
CORNELIUSSTRASSE
Cotheliusbrücke
518-519_EW_Europe.indd 518 14/07/16 3:17 pm

MUNICH  519



Getting Around Greater Munich Nuremberg 9 Freimann
Munich
Airport
Most of the main sights of interest can Moosach
be reached by Munich’s efficient U- 304
and S-Bahn train networks, including
Ober-
sights located farther afield, such as menzing
Olympiapark and Nymphenburg. Gern
Buses and trams also serve many of Nymphen- 2R
the main tourist spots. There is a large burg Schwabing Bogenhausen
pedestrianized zone at the heart of Neuhsn.
AMALIENSTRASSE
the city making walking a pleasant
SCHELLINGSTRASSE
LUISENSTRASSE THERESIEN- STRASSE SCHELLINGSTRASSE Maximilians- HUBER- alternative to public transportation. Landsberg Laim Hauptbahnhof Haid- 2R 94
HESSSTRASSE
PROF.-
Ludwig-
PLATZ
Universität
VETERINÄRSTR.
Berg
Ludwigskirche
Paläonto- ARC I S S TRA S S E TÜRKENSTRASSE AMALIENSTRASSE Universität 0 km 3 96 hausen am Laim
logisches Museum “Reich
Museum der Kristalle” KAULBACHSTRASSE 0 miles 3 Giesing Salzburg
WAGNER-
STRASSE
AUGUSTENSTRASSE Galerie im LUISENSTRASSE GABELSBERGERSTRASSE BARER S TRAS S E Pinakothek der LUDWI G S TRAS S E ENGLISCHER Key Area of main map
Moderne
GARTEN

Lenbachhaus
Staatsbibliothek
RHEINBERGER-
STRASSE
Propyläen AMALIENSTRASSE THERESIENSTRASSE Bayerische
KÖNIGSPLATZ
FÜRSTENSTR.
Königsplatz KATHARINA-VON-BORA-STR. SCHÖNFELDSTRASSE KÖNIGINSTRASSE ROSEN-
D. NATIONALSOZ. OSCAR-VON-MIL LER-RING
Antiken- LERCHENFELDSTRASSE B USCHSTR.
K.-DÖPFNER-STRASSE
Palais
sammlungen KAROLINEN- Pinakothek TÜRKENSTRASSE GLÜCKSTRASSE TANN-STR. HAHNEN- STRASSE der Kunst
VON-DER
Haus
PLATZ
KARLSTRASSE
JÄGERSTRASSE
Prähistorische
PLATZ
Basilika D. OPFER STRASSE ODEONS- GALERIESTR. Staatssammlung
FINKEN-
St. Bonifaz KARLSTRASSE BARER STRASSE MAX-JOSEPH-STRA. OTTOSTRASSE BRIENNERSTRASSE PLATZ Odeons- Neue Staats- PRI N ZRE G O ETTIN G E N S TR A S S E REITMORSTRASSE AM GRIES
WITTELS-
HOFGARTEN
BACHER-
kanzlei
PLATZ
platz
Theatiner-
ALEXANDRASTR. S S E
OTTOSTRASSE MAXIMILIANSPLATZ SALVATOR- kirche HOFGARTENSTR. ST RAU S S - R I NG PILOT YSTR. SEITZSTRASSE BRUDERSTRASSE ENT E N S TR A Schackgalerie
PLATZ
Siemens-
UNSÖLDSTR.
Preysing
museum
LENBACH-
STRASSE
PLATZ Salvatorkirche Palais RESIDENZSTR. LIEBIG- REITMORSTR. Luitpoldbr.
WAGMÜLLER-
Karlsplatz Dreifaltig- PRANNERSTR. Erzbischöf-
ST.-
keitskirche liches Marstall SEITZSTRASSE Anna- ANNA- STRASSE
kirche
PACELLISTR.
Künstler- K.-FAULHABER-STR. Palais THEATINERSTR. ST.-ANNA-STR. PLATZ
haus PROMENADE- Palais MAX- TRIFTSTR.
PLATZ
Porcia
PLATZ
KARLS- MAXBURGSTRASSE MAFFEISTR. PERUSA- JOSEPH- S C H A R N AGL-RIN G Anna R.-KOCH-STR.
PLATZ HERZOG-MAX-STR. STRASSE MARSTALLSTR. Klosterkirche W I D E N M AYE R S T RA S S E r
Karlsplatz St. Michaels- LÖWENGRU Palais Törring- AM BÜRKLEINSTR. Lehel S TE RN S T RA S S E s a
kirche
Karlstor Bürger- ETTSTR. Dt. Jagd- und SCHÄFFLERSTRASSE KOSTTOR Regierung von I
saalkirche Fischerei- Münzhof Oberbayern THIERSCH- STRASSE
museum WEINSTRASS Jettenbach
FRAUEN- Neues Alter Hof PFISTERSTR MAXI MI LIAN S T RA S S E
NEUHAUSER STR.
PLATZ
Augustinerbraü KAUFINGER-STRASSE Rathaus DIENERSTRASSE Wein- SPARKASSENSTR. Kammer-
HERZOGSPITALSTRASSE
spiele
DAMENSTIFT- STRASSE Damenstifts- FÜRSTENFELDER Marienplatz stadtl Altes Hofbräuhaus HILDEGARDSTRASSE KNÖBELSTR. Maximiliansbr.
Völkerkunde-
T H . - W I M M E R - R I N G
museum
HOTTERSTR.
kirche
STRASSE
LEDERER-
Rathaus
STRASSE
STRASSE
ALTHEI MER ECK FÄRBERGRABEN
JOSEPHSPITALSTR.
Rufini Hauser RINDERMARKT St. Peter HOCHBRÜCKEN- HERRNSTRASSE KNÖBELSTRASSE ADELGUNDEN- PRATER
Kreuz- HACKENSTR. Kirche Heilig- IM TAL MARIENSTR. STRASSE PRATERINSEL -INSEL
SENDLINGER STRASSE Ignaz VIKTUALIENMARKT DREIFALTIGKEITS- Isartor MANNHARDT- Mariannenbr.
kirche ROS ENTAL geistkirche RADLSTE THIERSCHSTRASSE
OBERANGER
PLATZ
STRASSE
HERZOG- WILHELM-STR.
PETERSPLATZ
WESTENRIEDERSTRASSE
S O N N E N S T RA S S E
Sendlinger OBERANGER Günther F RAUE N S T R . ISARTOR- Isartor STEINSDORFSTRASSE Kabelsteg
Haus
PLATZ
Tor OBERANGER THIERSCHSTR. WEHRSTEG
Sendlinger RUMFORDSTR ASSE
Tor UNTERER ANGER RUMFORD- REICHENBACHSTRASSE ZWEIBRÜ CKENSTR.
B L U M E NSTRASSE BUTTERMELCHERSTRASSE MORASSISTRASSE AUF DER INSEL
HERZOG-WILHELM-STRASSE
STRASSE
MÜLLERSTRASSE
AVENTINSTR.
PLATZ
MUSEUMSINSEL
Theater
im Fraunh. GÄRTNER- BAADERSTRASSE ERHARDTSTRASSE Ludwigsbr.
KLENZESTRASSE
Europäisches Boschbr. 0 meters 400
Patentamt Zenneckbr. St. Mary’s column and the Neo-Gothic Neues
0 yards 400 Rathaus towering over Marienplatz
CORNELIUSSTRASSE
Cotheliusbrücke
For keys to symbols see back flap
518-519_EW_Europe.indd 519 14/07/16 3:17 pm

520  GERM AN Y , A USTRIA , AND SWITZERLAND


1 Residenz

The origins of Munich’s grand Residenz – the former
residence of Bavarian kings – go back to the 14th century,
when a castle was built here for the Wittelsbach dynasty. In
the following centuries, the fortress was replaced by a palace
complex, which in turn was gradually modified and extended.
Major work in the 17th century included the construction
of two chapels, the Reiche Kapelle and the Hofkapelle. The
Königsbau, containing the superb Nibelungensäle, was
added by Leo von Klenze in the first half of the 19th century.
Since 1920, the palace has been open to the public as a
museum, displaying a wealth of magnificent treasures. In
addition to the collections of the Residenzmuseum and the
Schatzkammer (Treasury), there is an interesting museum of Hofkapelle
Egyptian art, the Staatliches Museum Ägyptischer Kunst. This imposing chapel,
which dates from the
early 17th century, was
modeled on nearby St.
Michael’s Church.
















Patrona Boiariae
The Renaissance facade
features two magnificent
portals, and a statue of the
Holy Virgin as Patroness of
Bavaria (Patrona Boiariae).







KEY
1 Grottenhof (Grotto Court)
2 The Reiche Kapelle, built
for Maximilian I, contains beautiful,
lavish furnishings.
3 Kaiser Hof (Emperor’s Court) is
housed in this wing of the Residenz.
. Nibelungensäle 4 The Brunnenhof has as its
The Nibelungensäle (Halls of the Nibelungs), a series of centerpiece an elaborately
five rooms in the Königsbau, take their name from the decorated fountain dedicated to
wall paintings depicting scenes from the great German the Wittelsbachs.
epic, the Nibelungenlied.
For hotels and restaurants see pp546–8 and pp549–51


520-521_EW_Europe.indd 520 14/07/16 10:18 am

MUNICH  521



VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
Practical Information
Residenzmuseum &
Schatzkammer: Max-Joseph-
Platz 3. Tel 089-29 06 71.
Open Apr 1–Oct 15: 9am–6pm
daily; Oct 16–Mar 31: 10am–5pm
daily. & Staatliches Museum
Ägyptischer Kunst:
Hofgartenstraße 1. Tel 089-28 92
76 30.  Odeonsplatz. Open
10am–8pm Tue, 10am–6pm
. Antiquarium Wed–Sun. & Cuvilliés-Theater:
This magnificent vaulted chamber, with its stunning Residenzstraße 1. Tel 089-21 85
frescoes, was begun in the second half of the 16th century 01. Open phone to check. &
to house the royal collection of antiquities. ∑ residenz-muenchen.de
Transport
 Odeonsplatz.

Cuvilliés-Theater
Designed in
1751–3 by François
de Cuvilliés, this is
Europe’s finest
surviving Rococo
theater and is still
in use today.


















Main entrance












. Schatzkammer
The rooms of the treasury hold many
priceless artifacts, including liturgical objects,
jewelry, and items of gold. The highlight of
Room V is the Bavarian crown jewels.




520-521_EW_Europe.indd 521 14/07/16 10:18 am

522  GERM AN Y , A USTRIA , AND SWITZERLAND

2 Frauenkirche end of the square stands the
Frauenplatz 1.  or  Karlsplatz, Altes Rathaus (Old Town Hall).
Marienplatz. v 19. Tower: Open Apr– Originally built in the late 15th
Oct: Mon–Sat. & century, it has been rebuilt
many times since. The high
The site of the Frauenkirche was tower, above the old city gate
originally occupied by a small beside the town hall, was rebuilt
chapel dedicated to the Virgin in 1975 to a design based on
Mary, built in the 13th century. pictures dating from 1493. Since
Some 200 years later, a new, 1983, the tower has been the
much larger church was built home of the city’s Spiel­
here by the architects Jörg von zeugmuseum (Toy Museum).
Halspach and Lukas Rottaler. The
new Frauenkirche (or Dom) was 4 Stadtmuseum
completed in 1488, although the
distinctive copper onion domes St. Jakobsplatz 1. Tel 089-23 32 23 70.
were not added to its towers Altes Rathaus and the Talbrucktor  or  Marienplatz.  Sendlinger
until 1525. The church is one on Marienplatz Tor. Open Tue–Sun. &
of southern Germany’s largest
Gothic structures. Over 100 m 3 Marienplatz The collection of the city
(330 ft) long and 40 m (130 ft)  or  Marienplatz. museum has been housed
wide, it can accommodate a Spielzeugmuseum: Tel 089-29 40 01. since 1880 in this former
congregation of about 2,000 Open daily. & arsenal. Exhibits illustrate daily
people. The vast triple-naved life in Munich throughout the
hall has no transept. There are In medieval times, Marienplatz ages. One of the greatest
long rows of side chapels and a was Munich’s salt- and corn- treasures is the “Dancing
gallery surrounding the choir. For market. In the center stands a Moors” by Erasmus Grasser
a good view of central Munich, column with a statue of the (1480). Originally, there were
you can take an elevator to the Virgin Mary dating from 1623. 18 highly expressive limewood
top of one of the towers. The square is dominated by the carvings of dancing figures
Partly demolished in 1944–5, Neo-Gothic Neues Rathaus surrounding the figure of a
the church was rebuilt after (New Town Hall), built in 1867– woman, but only ten survive.
World War II. Church treasures 1909. Its walls are adorned The Waffenhalle has a fine
that escaped destruction with statues of Bavarian rulers, collection of arms and armor.
include a painting of the Virgin mythological figures, saints, and There are also displays of
by Jan Polack (c.1500), the altar monstrous gargoyles. At 11am furniture, paintings, prints,
of St. Andrew in the Chapel of and 5pm, the center of photographs, dolls, and musical
St. Sebastian, and the huge attention is the clock tower. The instruments. The vast doll
monumental tomb of Ludwig IV bells ring out a carillon, while collection includes paper dolls
the Bavarian, the first member figures of knights fight a from India and China, as well
of the house of Wittelsbach tournament and a crowd dances. as automata and puppets.
to be elected Holy Roman The dance is the “Coopers’ Also located in the square
Emperor (c.1283–1347). The Dance,” first performed in 1517 is the Judisches Zentrum
monument was the work of to raise citizens’ morale during a Jakobsplatz (the Jewish Center),
Hans Krumpper (1619–22). plague epidemic. At the eastern housed in a cube-shaped,
freestanding building. Three
floors of exhibitions, a library,
and a learning center offer
extensive information on
Jewish culture and history, and
highlight important aspects
of contemporary Jewish life.

5 Asamkirche
Sendlinger Straße 32.  Sendlinger
Tor. v 16, 17, 18, 27. @ 52, 152.
Open daily.
This extraordinary Rococo
church is dedicated to St. John
Nepomuk, but is known as
the Asamkirche after the
The distinctive roof and towers of Munich’s Frauenkirche, seen from the top of city hall brothers Cosmas Damian
For hotels and restaurants see pp546–8 and pp549–51


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MUNICH  523


and Egid Quirin Asam, who built Temple of Aphaia on the Greek
it as a private family church. island of Aegina. The museum’s
Completed in 1746, the tiny imposing facade, with the
church is a riot of decoration portico of an Ionic temple at
with a dynamically shaped the center, is part of a kind of
single nave, where no surface is Neoclassical forum created in
left unembellished. The eye is the first half of the 19th century
drawn to the altar, and its to house the archaeological
sculptural group of the Holy finds acquired by King Ludwig I
Trinity. The house next door to of Bavaria. On the opposite side
the church was the residence of the square, the Staatliche
of Egid Quirin Asam, who was Antikensammlung houses
a stuccoist and sculptor. From smaller treasures, in particular
one of the windows of his a vast array of Greek vases. Four Apostles (1526) by Albrecht Dürer, in
house, he could see the altar. the Alte Pinakothek
7 Alte Pinakothek St. Luke Painting the Madonna
by Rogier van der Weyden,
Barer Straße 27. Tel 089-23 80 52 16.
 Königsplatz. v 27. @ 100. Open and works by Hans Memling
Tue–Sun (parts of museum closed for and Pieter Brueghel the Elder.
renovations until 2018). & 7 Of later artists, the one with
most works on display is the
This magnificent gallery is filled prolific Rubens. There are also
with masterpieces of European interesting works by El Greco,
art from the Middle Ages to the Rembrandt, Raphael, Titian,
mid-18th century. Many of the and Tintoretto.
Wittelsbach rulers of Bavaria
were great collectors, the first
being Wilhelm IV the Steadfast, 8 Neue Pinakothek
who ruled from 1508 to 1550. Barer Straße 29. Tel 089-23 80 51 95.
The Alte Pinakothek (Old Picture  Theresienstraße. v 27. @ 100.
Gallery) was built for Ludwig I Open Wed–Mon. &
by Leo von Klenze in 1826–36
in the form of a Florentine Bavaria’s collection of late 18th-
Renaissance palazzo. The ground and 19th-century European
floor is devoted to the works of painting and sculpture occupies
German and Flemish Old Masters a purpose-built gallery
The richly decorated altar of the from the 16th and 17th centuries. completed in 1981. German
Rococo Asamkirche On the first floor are works by painting of every artistic
Dutch, Flemish, French, German, movement of the 19th century,
6 Glyptothek Italian, and Spanish artists. including Romanticism, the
Of the German works, pride of “Nazarenes,” German and
Königsplatz 3. Tel 089-28 61 00. place goes to Albrecht Dürer’s Austrian Biedermeier, and
 Königsplatz. Open Tue–Sun. famous Self-Portrait (1500) and Impressionism is well
& Staatliche Antikensammlung: two panels of an altarpiece represented. There are also
Königsplatz 1. Tel 089-59 98 88 30. showing Four Apostles. Among works by French Realists,
Open Tue–Sun. & the other German artists Impressionists, and Symbolists
represented are Lucas Cranach purchased when the gallery’s
On the northern side of the Elder and Grünewald. Early director was the art historian
Königsplatz stands the Flemish masterpieces include Hugo von Tschudi.
Glyptothek, a collection of The open space between
Greek and Roman sculpture, the Neue and Alte Pinakothek
notably statues from the has been turned into a
sculpture park.









Neoclassical facade of the Glyptothek, which houses a collection of Greek and Roman sculpture




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524  GERM AN Y , A USTRIA , AND SWITZERLAND


9 Pinakothek der
Moderne
Barer Straße 40. Tel 089-23 80 53 60.
 Königsplatz. v 27. @ 100.
Open 10am–6pm Tue–Sun (to 8pm
Thu). & except Sun. 7 -
∑ pinakothek-der-moderne.de
Designed by the German
architect Stephan Braunfels,
this sleek contemporary
museum brings together the Neapolitan crib in the Bayerisches Nationalmuseum
worlds of art, design, graphics,
and architecture under one aeroplane that belonged to on Prinzregentenstrasse,
roof. The collections of four the Wright brothers and a 1936 designed by Gabriel von Seidl.
previously separate museums, Messerschmitt ME 109. A hall The ground floor contains works
including the Staatliche charting the history of sea faring from the Romanesque, Gothic,
Graphische Sammlung, the houses a 14th-century cog, a Renaissance, Baroque, and
design collection of Die Neue trading ship used by the Neoclassical periods. Star
Sammlung, and the models, Hanseatic League, and a exhibits are German sculptor
drawings, and objects of the 19th-century fishing vessel. Conrat Meit’s Judith (1515)
Architekturmuseum, are now The museum’s superb and a beautiful sculpture of
housed here. As well as the collection of automobiles and the Madonna by Tilman
individual permanent displays, other exhibits related to land Riemenschneider (c.1460–1531).
there are also temporary and travel is now largely on display The first-floor collections
mixed exhibitions. in the Deutsches Museum include German porcelain,
Verkehrszentrum at Am clocks, glassware, ivory carvings,
0 Deutsches Bavariapark 5, in the west textiles, and items of gold.
of the city.
Museum Temporary exhibitions are In the basement rooms, the
Christmas nativity scenes by
Museuminsel 1. Tel 089-217 91. regularly held at the museum, Bavarian and Italian artists are
 Isartor. v 18. @ 52, 56. Open which also has an excellent especially worth seeing.
daily. & ∑ deutsches-museum.de library archive and a range
of multimedia facilities. w Englischer
Reputed to be the largest Garten
science and technology q Bayerisches
museum in the world, the Nationalmuseum  Giselastraße. @ 54.
Deutsches Museum is also the
most popular museum in Prinzregentenstraße 3. Tel 089-211 24 The idea of creating a park in
Germany. Founded in 1904, the 01. v 17. @ 100. Open Tue–Sun. the heart of the city open to all
vast collection features more Munich’s citizens came from the
than 28,000 exhibits across a Founded in 1855 by King American-born Count von
wide range of subject areas, Maximilian II, the Bavarian Rumford, who lived in Bavaria
from agriculture to National Museum holds a from 1784. In 1789, taking
telecommunications. superb collection of fine and advantage of his position as
In the basement and on the applied arts and historical Bavaria’s Minister of War, he
ground floor are some of the artifacts. Since 1900, the persuaded Elector Karl Theodor
museum’s largest museum has occupied to put his plans into action.
exhibits. The an impressive Opened in 1808, the Karl-
aeronautics building Theodor-Park is today simply
section holds an known as the Englischer Garten
(English Garden). The park
covers an area of 3.7 sq km
(914 acres), and has become
a popular place for walking,
jogging, or simply relaxing.
Several interesting buildings
dotted about the gardens
include the Monopteros, a
Neoclassical temple (1837) by
Leo von Klenze, and the Chinese
Benz’s tricycle, the first petrol-driven vehicle, Tower (1789–90), similar to the
on display at the Deutsches Museum pagoda in London’s Kew
For hotels and restaurants see pp546–8 and pp549–51


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MUNICH  525


Gardens (see p). In the delightful the Olympiapark hosts many
Japanese Teahouse, demon- popular cultural events, such
strations on the art of tea as fireworks displays and open-
brewing are held. Within the air rock and pop concerts
Englischer Garten are three beer during the summer months.
gardens, where locals and tourists
alike come to drink and listen to
live music. Visitors can also take r Schloss
out rowing boats on the park’s
lake, the Kleinhesseloher See. Nymphenburg
Tel 089-17 90 80.  Rotkreuzplatz.
@ 668. Open daily. & Botanischer
Garten: Open daily. &
Located northwest of the city
center, the stunning Schloss Interior of the Amalienburg, in the grounds
Nymphenburg grew up around of Schloss Nymphenburg
an Italianate villa, built in 1663–
4 for Electress Henrietta- palace is dominated by a broad
Adelaide. The Electress canal, bordered by immac-
dedicated the palace, which ulately presented gardens. On
became the summer residence the edge of the gardens is the
of the Wittelsbachs, to the Porcelain Factory, established in
pastoral pleasures of the 1741, and one of the oldest
The late 18th-century Chinese Tower in the goddess Flora and her nymphs, factories of its type in Europe.
Englischer Garten hence the name. Several The Porzellanmuseum offers a
additions were made in the record of the famous
following century, including the Nymphenburg porcelain.
e Olympiapark construction of four pavilions, Behind the palace stretches
Tel 089-30 670.  Olympia-zentrum. connected to the original villa the Schlosspark, an English-
v 20, 21, 27. Pavilion: Open daily. by arcaded passageways. style country park dotted with
The palace’s interior boasts lakes and royal lodges. The most
Built for the 1972 Olympic some magnificent examples of notable of these is François de
Games, the Olympiapark is the Rococo style. One of the Cuvilliés’ Amalienburg, a
visible from almost anywhere most impressive rooms is the hunting lodge with a lavish
in Munich, identifiable by the Festsaal – a sumptuous Rococo interior. Its highlight is
290 m (950 ft) high television ballroom, designed by father the splendid Spiegelsaal (Hall of
tower, the Olympiaturm. The and son, Johann Baptiste and Mirrors). Joseph Effner, the
site has three main facilities: Franz Zimmermann. Equally principal architect of the palace’s
the Olympic stadium, which impressive is the Schönheiten­ extensions, was also responsible
seats over 60,000 spectators, galerie (Gallery of Beauties). for designing the Pagodenburg,
the Olympic Hall, and the Hanging here are 38 portraits of used for entertaining, and the
Swimming Hall. All three are beautiful women – favorites of Baroque bathing house, the
covered by a vast transparent King Ludwig I. The palace also Badenburg. Also in the park is
canopy, stretched between houses a small natural history the Magdalenenklause,
several tall masts to form an and science museum. The old built as a hermitage for
irregular-shaped pavilion. Also stables are now home to the Maximilian Emmanuel.
within the complex are an Marstallmuseum, a collection North of the palace, the
indoor skating rink, a cycle of wonderfully ornate carriages Botanischer Garten (Botanical
racing track, and tennis courts. that once belonged to Bavarian Garden) holds many rare and
As well as sporting occasions, rulers. The approach to the exotic species.












Facade of the splendid Schloss Nymphenburg, begun in the 17th century




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526  GERM AN Y , A USTRIA , AND SWITZERLAND


The Beers of Germany

Although Germany produces many fine wines, it is for its beer that the country has won
worldwide renown. Nowhere is the business of brewing and beer drinking taken so
seriously as in Munich. Bavarians are probably the world’s greatest consumers of beer,
with an annual average intake of 240 liters per head. However, this figure is possibly
inflated by the vast quantities downed at the annual Oktoberfest, during which some
7 million lovers of beer converge on Munich for 16 days of revelry lasting from late
September to early October. When traveling in Germany, make a point of trying the
specialties of the local brewery, in a Bierkeller (beer cellar) or Bierstube (pub) in winter, and
in summer in a Biergarten (beer garden).

The tankard known as
a Mass (measure) holds
one liter, although
German beer is always
served with a considerable
head on it. Waitresses at
the Oktoberfest have no
difficulty carrying eight or
nine of these at once.




Pilsener
The most widely drunk beer
in Germany is Pils (short for
Pilsener), a light lager-style
beer produced by bottom-
fermentation. This method
was perfected in Pilsen (Plzeň Munich’s Oktoberfest
in the Czech Republic) in the attracts so many visitors, a
19th century. Fermentation great tented village, with
occurs at low temperatures, so stalls, a funfair, and loud
takes longer than with other music, is set up on
beers. The essential ingredients Theresienwiese, just to the
west of the city center. This
are barley, hops, and crystal- open space was where the
clear water. Two of the main marriage of King Ludwig was
breweries producing this kind celebrated in 1810.
of beer in Munich are
Löwenbräu and Paulaner.


Other German Beers
Germany produces many varieties of beer, some of
which are brewed only at certain times of year. Of these
seasonal beers, it is worth trying spring beers such as
the strong Maibock. Other interesting beers include
dark styles – known as Dunkelbier or Schwarzbier – and
Weizenbier, a beer made from wheat rather than barley.
The Berlin version of the latter, Berliner Weisse (white
beer), is served with fruit juice. Many local breweries
have their own specialties. Bamberg is famous for its
Rauchbier, which has a light smokiness. In the lower
Rhine valley, Altbier is still produced; this is a top- Berliner Weisse Dunkelbier Oktoberfest
fermented beer, prepared by traditional methods.
(wheat beer) beer






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GERM AN Y  527

e Lake Constance
£ Konstanz. @ n Bahnhofsplatz
13, Konstanz (07531-13 30 30).
Lake Constance (in German,
the Bodensee) lies on the
borders of Germany, Austria,
and Switzerland. The area
surrounding the lake is one of
the most attractive in Germany,
in terms of both natural beauty
and cultural heritage. The best
time to visit is summer, when
local fishermen stage colorful
festivals and there are plenty of
opportunities for water sports
and cruises on the lake.
St. Stephans Dom, Passau’s imposing Baroque cathedral Konstanz (Constance) is the
q Passau largest town in the region, and
Bavarian King Ludwig II, to a its main attraction is the
* 50,000. £ @ n Rathausplatz 3 design by the theater designer magnificent 11th-century
(0851-95 59 80). Christian Jank. Its pinnacled Romanesque cathedral. The
turrets have provided the town is in two parts: the old
Passau lies on a peninsula inspiration for countless models, town (Altstadt) is a German
between the Danube and the book illustrations, and film sets. enclave in Switzerland on the
Inn, near the Austrian border. In The walls of the vestibule and southern shore, while the newer
739, the Irish monk St. Boniface other rooms in the castle are part stands on a peninsula
founded a major bishopric here. lavishly covered with paintings between the two main arms
After two destructive fires in depicting scenes from German of the lake.
1662 and 1680, the myths and The many romantic old
town was rebuilt legends. The towns and beautiful islands
by Italian gilded interior of of Lake Constance attract
architects, who left the throne room hordes of visitors every summer.
many fine Baroque is reminiscent of a The exquisite little town of
buildings, Byzantine basilica, Meersburg opposite Konstanz
including the while the dining is a very popular destination.
cathedral, St. room has So too is Mainau, the “Island
Stephans Dom. intricately carved of Flowers.” The most beautiful
However, the town panels and gardens on the island are in
retains a medieval fabulous pictures the park of the Baroque
feel in its narrow Gilded apse of the throne room, and furniture. The palace, built in 1739–46.
alleys and Neuschwanstein pale grey granite At the northeastern (Bavarian)
archways. The castle, which end of the lake, the medieval
Gothic town hall dates from the draws on a variety of historical island town of Lindau is the
14th and 15th centuries. styles, is a 20-minute walk from major draw.
Opposite it is the Passauer the village of Schwangau.
Glasmuseum, which has a fine In the village itself is another
collection of Bohemian, Austrian, castle, Schloss Hohenschwangau,
and Bavarian glass. High above built in 1832 by Maximilian, heir
the Inn stands a pretty Baroque to the throne of Bavaria, over
pilgrimage church, the the ruins of a medieval castle.
Wallfahrtskirche Mariahilf. A tour of the Neo-Gothic castle
gives a fascinating insight into
w Neuschwanstein the history of the Wittelsbach
family, rulers of Bavaria from
@ to Schwangau. Tel 08362-93 98 1180 to 1918. There are also
80. Open Oct–Mar: 10am–4pm daily; some fine 19th-century
Apr–Sep: 9am–6pm daily. & 8 7 furnishings and the castle’s
(limited access). terraced gardens afford
magnificent views.
Set amid magnificent mountain
scenery on the shores of the + Schloss Hohenschwangau
Alpsee, this fairy-tale castle was Tel 08362-819 80. Open daily. A half-timbered house on the banks of
built in 1869–86 for the eccentric Closed Dec 24. & 8 Lake Constance
For hotels and restaurants see pp546–8 and pp549–51


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528  GERM AN Y , A USTRIA , AND SWITZERLAND

Baden-Württemberg

Baden-Württemberg, which includes territories of the former
Grand Duchy of Baden, is one of Germany’s most popular
tourist destinations. Its magnificent castles, luxurious resorts,
and the beautiful recreation areas of the Black Forest
guarantee a memorable vacation, while the region’s long and
turbulent history has given it a rich cultural and religious
diversity. Germany’s oldest university, Heidelberg, is also
located in the region.

Rembrandt’s St. Paul in Prison (1627),
regions. The area is famous for Staatsgalerie, Stuttgart
Schwarzwälder Kirschtorte (Black
Forest gateau) and Kirschwasser y Stuttgart
(schnapps), as well as for its * 598,000. k £ @
therapeutic spring waters. n Königstraße 1A (0711-222 80).
Todtnau is a popular sports ∑ stuttgart-tourist.de
center and a base for hikers.
Nearby, Hangloch-Wasserfall is Stuttgart grew from humble
one of the most magnificent beginnings as a stud farm to
The Kaufhaus, Freiburg’s historic merchants’ waterfalls in the region. become the ducal and royal
meeting hall The heart of the resort of capital of Württemberg. It is
r Freiburg im Todtmoos is the Baroque now one of the largest and
most important towns of the
pilgrimage church, which dates
Breisgau from the 17th–18th centuries. Federal Republic. Beautifully
Popular dog-sled races are held situated among picturesque
* 218,000. £ @ n Rotteckring
14 (0761-388 18 80). _ Fasnet (end annually in the town. hills, the town is a major
of carnival), Weintage (Jun). In the health resort of St. industrial and cultural center,
∑ freiburg.de Blasien stands a Benedictine with a world-famous ballet
Abbey, founded in the 9th company, chamber orchestra,
Freiburg is a natural gateway to century. Its church (1783) is and splendid art collections.
the Black Forest. The counts von an excellent example of early When Württemberg Castle
Zähringen first established the Neoclassical style. burned down in 1311, the family
town in 1120, and since 1805 it The main attraction of seat was moved to Stuttgart.
has been part of Baden. From Furtwangen is its clock The ducal residence, the Altes
the Middle Ages, fast-flowing museum (Uhrenmuseum), Schloss, was given its present
canals, or bächle, have run which houses a collection of square layout in 1553–78.
through the town, providing more than 4,000 chronometers. The palace now houses the
water to help extinguish the In the open-air museum Württembergisches Landes-
once frequent fires. near the small town of Gutach museum, which holds vast
The cathedral was built in visitors can see the Black collections of decorative art and
the 13th century in Gothic Forest’s oldest house – the jewelry. On the east side of
style. Münsterplatz, the 16th-century Vogtsbauernhof. Stuttgart’s main square is a huge
picturesque cathedral square,
is lined with houses from
various architectural periods.
Completed in 1520, with
ground-floor arcades and richly
adorned gables, the Kaufhaus
was used by merchants for
meetings and conferences.
t Black Forest
£ to Freiburg. @ to all towns.
n Wehratalstraße 19, Todtmoos
(07674- 906 00). ∑ todtmoos.de
Densely planted with tall firs
and spruces, the Black Forest
(Schwarzwald) is one of
Germany’s most picturesque Houses on the edge of the Black Forest
For hotels and restaurants see pp546–8 and pp549–51


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GERM AN Y  529


palace complex, the Neues French incursions in the late
Schloss, built in 1746–1807. 17th century totally destroyed
The palace gardens still medieval Heidelberg. The town
have much of their original was subsequently rebuilt in the
charm, with neat avenues 18th-century in Baroque style.
and impressive sculptures. Towering over the town, the
The Staatsgalerie grew Heidelberger Schloss is a vast
from a fine art museum residential complex that was
containing King Wilhelm I built and repeatedly extended
of Württemberg’s private between the 13th and 17th
collection. Among the Old centuries. Originally a supremely
Masters on display are well-fortified Gothic castle, it is
Rembrandt and Bellini, now mostly in ruins.
while modern artists The Universitätsbibliothek
include Monet, Picasso, (University Library), erected in
and Modigliani. 1901–5, has one of the largest
A building exhibition Classic cars on display in the Mercedes-Benz- book collections in Germany,
held in 1927 left behind a Museum, Stuttgart with over two million volumes.
complete housing estate, The French Count Charles de
the Weißenhofsiedlung, which u Heidelberg Graimberg built up an extensive
contains houses by Mies van * 150,000. £ @ n Willy-Brandt- collection of fine drawings,
der Rohe, Le Corbusier, Peter Platz 1 (06221-584 44 44). paintings, arms, and other
Behrens, and Hans Scharoun. ∑ heidelberg.de curios. His collection forms the
Another must for all lovers of core of the Kurpfälzisches
modern architecture, the Situated on the banks of the Museum, which also has a
Liederhalle congress center Neckar river, Heidelberg is one fascinating archaeology section.
is a successful synthesis of of Germany’s most beautiful The Baroque domes of the
tradition and modernism. towns. For centuries, it was a Heiliggeistkirche are city land-
The Linden Museum is one center of political power, with marks. Former canons of the
of Germany’s finest ethnology a lively and influential cultural college were university scholars,
museums, containing exhibits life. In 1386, Germany’s first and the church aisle features
from all over the world. Figures university was established extensive galleries of books.
from the Indonesian theater of here by the Elector Ruprecht I.
shadows and a 6th–8th-century The construction of the town’s E Kurpfälzisches Museum
mask from Peru are among the palace began during his Hauptstraße 97. Tel 06221-583
eclectic items on display. reign, continuing until the 40 20. Open Tue–Sun (Wed:
To the east of the center is mid-17th century. However, 10am–6pm). &
the famous Mercedes-Benz-
Museum. Its splendid collection
illustrates the development of
the automobile with over 70
historic vehicles, all in immaculate
condition. Stuttgart’s other
famous car manufacturer has
created the Porsche-Museum,
which includes around 50
examples of these high-speed,
expensive vehicles.
Once an independent health
resort, Bad Cannstatt is now a
district of Stuttgart. Set in a
beautiful park, it has a late-
Gothic church, a Neoclassical
town hall, and a kursaal (spa-
house). One of its main
attractions is the magnificent
Schloss Rosenstein (1824–9).

E Staatsgalerie
Konrad-Adenauer-Straße 30–32.
Tel 0711-470 400. Open Tue–Sun. &
E Mercedes-Benz-Museum
Mercedesstraße 100. Tel 0711-173
00 00. Open Tue–Sun. Heidelberger Schloss rising above Heidelberg’s Alte Brücke (Old Bridge)




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530  GERM AN Y , A USTRIA , AND SWITZERLAND

The Rhine and Mosel Valleys number of locks. A tour by car
or bus is a pleasant alternative.
The Rhine and Mosel Valleys offer a series of fairy-tale Popular excursions include
landscapes – spectacular gorges, rocky crags topped by those from Trier to Bernkastel-
romantic castles, and picturesque villages surrounded by Kues and from Koblenz to
vineyards producing excellent white wines. After flowing into Cochem. Wine-tasting and
eating play a big part in visitors’
Germany from France, the Mosel meanders between steep- enjoyment of the region. Of the
sided banks to join the Rhine at Koblenz. South of Koblenz many castles that line the river,
lies one of the most stunning stretches of the Rhine, which is be sure to visit Burg Eltz – the
also the birthplace of German myths such as the Lorelei and core of which has survived more
the Nibelungenlied, the great medieval epic poem of or less intact since it was built in
vengeance and honor. the 12th century – a short walk
from the town of Wierschem.
artifacts is held in the nearby + Burg Eltz
Rheinisches Landesmuseum. @ to Wierschem. Open Apr–Oct:
daily. &
E Rheinisches Landes museum
Weimarer Allee 1. Tel 0651-977 40.
Open 9:30am–5:30pm Tue–Sun. & p Mainz
Rhineland-Palatinate. * 207,000.
£ @ n Im Brückenturm am
o Mosel Valley Rathaus (06131-24 28 88).
∑ touristik-mainz.de
n Am Gestade 6, Bernkastel-Kues
(06531-50 01 90). 4 Hans Michels
(06531-8222); Gebrüder Kolb, Mainz enjoyed power and
Briedern (02673-1515). influence under the Holy Roman
∑ mosellandtouristik.de Empire, as the city’s Archbishop
was one of the Electors. The
On the stretch of the Mosel Kaiserdom, the Romanesque
between Trier and Koblenz, cathedral, dates back to the 11th
The colorful portal of Trier’s romantic castles tower above century. Like
Kurfürstliches Schloss vineyards. Between May and others from
i Trier October, river trips are this period, it
available all along the
has a choir
Rhineland-Palatinate. * 106,000. river – either short at each
£ @ n An der Porta Nigra (0651- daytrips or longer
97 80 80). ∑ trier.de cruises. However,
progress can be slow
Germany’s oldest town, Trier because of the
was founded by the Emperor
Augustus in 16 BC. Its
monumental Roman gateway,
the Porta Nigra, was built in the
3rd century AD. Among the
city’s other Roman relics are the
Aula Palatina, a vast, austere
building that served as the
throne hall of Roman emperors
and also as a church, the
Basilika und Kurfürstliches
Schloss. The basilica was built
for Emperor Constantine
around AD 305. In the 16th
century, part of it was
incorporated into a Renaissance
castle, later transformed into
a Baroque palace for the
archbishop-electors of Trier. The
4th-century Kaiserthermen
(Imperial Baths) are also in
the same building. A
superb collection of Roman Burg Eltz, the most evocative castle in the Mosel Valley
For hotels and restaurants see pp546–8 and pp549–51


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GERM AN Y  531


Popular sights along the route Florinsmarkt takes its name
include Bacharach, a pretty from the Romanesque-
town on the left bank, and the Gothic Church of St. Florin,
striking white-walled island which dates from the 12th
castle of Pfalzgrafenstein, which century. Nestling among
once levied tolls on passing the square’s historic buildings
ships. Past the town of Kaub on is the Mittelrheinisches
the right bank is the rock of the Museum, with medieval art
Lorelei, a legen dary siren who and archaeological collections.
lured sailors to their deaths with The present appearance of
her song and her beauty. A the Alte Burg, with its fine
modern statue marks the spot. Renaissance facade, dates from
Across the river is the town of St. the 17th century, but a fortress
Goar, domin ated by the ruined has stood on this site since the
Burg Rheinfels, blown up by early Middle Ages.
French troops in 1797. Burg Katz Other sights of interest are
The apse and towers at the east end of the offers one of the best-known the Liebfrauenkirche, which
Kaiserdom, Mainz views of the Rhine valley. At has a beautiful Gothic choir,
Boppard, the attrac tions include the Kurfürstliches Schloss (the
end – one for the emperor and the 13th-century Church of St. Electors’ palace), and Festung
one for the clergy. The nave is Severus and more spectacular Ehrenbreitstein,
filled with the splendid tombs views. Just south of Koblenz where the archbishops
of the archbishops, ranging in stands Schloss Stolzenfels, of Trier resided from
date from the 13th to the 19th created in the early 19th 1648–1786.
century. The St. Gotthard- century for King Friedrich
Kapelle beside the cathedral Wilhelm IV. There are no Environs
was the private chapel of the bridges on this Northwest of Koblenz,
archbishops. It has a fine stretch of the river, the Benedictine
12th-century arcaded loggia. but if you are abbey of Maria
Other attractions include the exploring by car, Laach is a
well-preserved old half-timbered there are ferries at masterpiece of
houses of the Kirschgarten area various points. Romanesque
and the Baroque Kurfürstliches However, the best Detail on tomb of Heinrich II, architecture. It
Schloss, now a museum of way to enjoy the Maria Laach was begun in
Roman and other relics. Rhine’s magnificent 1093 on the orders
Mainz is also famous for the scenery is by boat. of Count Palatine
development in the 1440s by Heinrich II, who lies buried
Johannes Gutenberg of printing s Koblenz here. The Paradise courtyard,
with movable metal type. The meant to symbolize the
Gutenberg Museum has a Rhineland-Palatinate. * 110,000. £ Garden of Eden, resembles
@ n Zentralplatz 1 (0261-194 33).
recreation of his studio and a ∑ koblenz-touristik.de the Alham bra in Granada
copy of his famous 42-line Bible. (see pp312–13).
Koblenz stands at the confluence
E Gutenberg Museum of the Mosel and Rhine rivers. R Maria Laach
Liebfrauenplatz 5. Tel 06131-12 26 40. On the Deutsches Eck, the spur Off A61, 25 km (16 miles) NW of
Open Tue–Sun. Closed public hols. of land between the two rivers, Koblenz. Tel 02652-590. @ from
stands a huge equestrian statue Andernach or Niedermendig.
a Rhine Valley of Emperor Wilhelm I. Open daily.
n Zentralplatz 1 (in the Forum
Confuentes), Koblenz (0261-194 33).
4 K-D Linie, Konrad-Adenauer-Ufer,
Koblenz (0261-91 46 99 90); in
operation Apr–Oct: weekends.
Cruises on the Rhine are available
along much of its length, but the
most scenic and popular stretch
is the Rhine Gorge between
Mainz and Bonn. The gorge
starts at Bingen, where the Nahe
joins the Rhine on its 1,320-km-
(825-mile-) journey from
Switzerland to the North Sea. Burg Katz above the town of St. Goarhausen in the Rhine Gorge




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532  GERM AN Y , A USTRIA , AND SWITZERLAND


floor displays works by Old Built in stages in the 13th and
Masters such as Botticelli, van 15th centuries, the church
Eyck, Vermeer, and Rembrandt. contains many treasures,
Another interesting museum including a copy of Leonardo
in the Schaumainkai complex da Vinci’s Last Supper by Hans
is the Deutsches Architektur- Holbein the Elder, from 1501.
museum, which concentrates The Historisches Museum
mainly on developments in has an interesting display of
20th-century architecture. items relating to Frankfurt’s
Nearby is the Deutsches history, including a fascinating
Filmmuseum, which holds model of the medieval town, a
documents and objects relating collection of local prehistoric
to the art of film-making and the finds, and several decorative
development of film technology. fragments from buildings
The museum has its own destroyed during World War II.
cinema, which shows old and The twin-naved Alte
often long-forgotten films. Nikolaikirche, or Church of St.
The great German poet, Nicholas, is popular for its fine
Frankfurt’s skyscraper district, novelist, and dramatist Johann statues of St. Nicholas and the
nicknamed “Mainhattan” Wolfgang von Goethe was born 40-bell carillon, which plays
at the Goethehaus in 1749. The German folk songs twice a day.
d Frankfurt am house was totally destroyed in The Kaiserdom, an imperial
Main World War II, but later lovingly cathedral, was built between
restored, its interior the 13th and 15th
Hesse. * 685,000. k £ @ 4 reconstructed in centuries. It has
n Hauptbahnhof (069-21 23 88 00). typical 18th-century several priceless
∑ frankfurt-tourismus.de style. The desk at masterpieces of
which Goethe wrote Gothic artwork,
Frankfurt am Main is one of the his early works, such including the
main economic and cultural as The Sorrows of 15th-century
centers of Europe. The Young Werther Maria-Schlaf-Altar.
headquarters of many major (1774), remains. The collection at
banks and newspaper publishers Located in the the Museum für
are based here, and the city’s center of the old Moderne Kunst
International Book Fair is the town, the Römer (Museum of Modern
world’s largest event of its kind. is a collection of Portrait of a Woman (c.1480) Art) represents all
Since 1878, the Städelsches 15th- to 18th- by Botticelli, Städelsches the major artistic
Kunstinstitut has occupied a century houses, Kunstinstitut trends from the
Neo-Renaissance building on including the Altes 1960s until the
Schaumainkai, the picturesque Rathaus (Old Town Hall), rebuilt present day, with works by Roy
“museum embankment.” after World War II. Opposite is a Lichtenstein and Andy Warhol.
The ground floor houses a group of half-timbered houses, The Liebieghaus, a museum of
collection of Dutch and known as the Ostzeile. sculpture, has works ranging from
German prints and drawings, On the banks of the Main antiquity through to Mannerism
the first floor is devoted to stands St. Leonhardkirche, a and Rococo. There are some
19th- and 20th-century fine example of Gothic and superb examples of ancient
art, and the second Romanesque architecture. Egyptian and Far Eastern art, as
well as splendid works from the
Middle Ages and the Renaissance.
E Städelsches Kunstinstitut
Schaumainkai 63. Tel 069-605 09 80.
Open Tue–Sun. & 8
E Museum für Moderne Kunst
Domstraße 10. Tel 069-21 23 04 47.
Open Tue–Sun. &
Environs
Hanau, 30 km (19 miles) east of
Frankfurt, is the birthplace of
the brothers Wilhelm and Jakob
Grimm. There is an exhibition
devoted to their lives and work
The Ostzeile on the Römerberg, one of the symbols of Frankfurt at the local historical museum.
For hotels and restaurants see pp546–8 and pp549–51


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GERM AN Y  533


Cologne and the Rhine
Valley, the modern Römisch-
Germanisches Museum
displays Roman weapons,
tools, and decorative objects,
as well as the superb Dionysus
mosaic from around 250 BC.
The Museum Ludwig
boasts one of Europe’s best
The Baroque Elector’s palace, housing Bonn University collections of modern art.
f Bonn A Neanderthal skull is also exhi- German Expressionists,
Surrealists, and American
North Rhine-Westphalia. * 320,000. bited here. The Kunstmuseum Pop Artists are all represented.
k £ @ n Windeckstraße 1 Bonn, a museum of modern The Romans built a sports
(0228-77 50 00). ∑ bonn.de art, has a superb display of arena on the site now occupied
Expressionist paintings. by the 12th-century Groß St.
There has been a crossing over Martin. Remains of the baths
the Rhine at Bonn since pre- g Cologne have been uncovered
Roman times, but the settlement underneath the crypt.
first rose to prominence under North Rhine-Westphalia. Cologne’s Rathaus (Town
the Archbishops of Cologne in * 1,045,000. k £ @ n Unter Hall) is an irregular-shaped
the 13th century. Bonn was the Fettenhennen 19 (0221-22 13 04 00). building, the result of
capital of the Federal Republic ∑ koelntourismus.de successive modifications after
of Germany between 1949 1330. Under a glass pyramid at
and 1991. Originally founded by the the front are the remains of
The central market square Romans, Cologne (Köln) is one 12th-century Jewish baths.
is surrounded by a mixture of the oldest settlements in Highlights of the late-Gothic
of modern and Baroque Germany. Present-day Cologne Church of St. Peter, built in
architecture, including the late- is an important ecclesiastical 1515–39, are its stained-glass
Baroque Rathaus (Town Hall), and cultural center, boasting 12 windows and the magnificent
built in 1737–8. Just north of Romanesque churches and the Crucifixion of St. Peter (c.1637)
the market square stands the famous cathedral (see pp534–5), by Peter Paul Rubens.
18th-century Baroque house as well as several excellent The southern chamber
where Beethoven was born. museums, historic buildings, of the Church of St. Ursula
The Beethovenhaus is now a and superb galleries. is lined with many shrines.
museum housing an impressive The Wallraf-Richartz- According to legend, they
collection of memorabilia. Museum contains 14th- to hold the remains of St. Ursula
Bonn has many fine museums. 19th-century paintings and 11,000 virgins, reputedly
The Rheinisches Landes- organized by the schools of art killed by the Huns.
museum has a vast collection of they represent. Featured artists
archaeological exhibits dating include Rubens, Dürer, Munch, E Wallraf-Richartz-Museum
back to Roman times, as well and Max Liebermann. Housing Obenmarspforten. Tel 0221-22 12 11
as medieval and modern art. archaeological finds from 19. Open Tue–Sun. &





















The city of Cologne, viewed from the Rhine




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534  GERM AN Y , A USTRIA , AND SWITZERLAND


Cologne Cathedral Cathedral
Exterior
The history of Germany’s greatest Gothic Built out of
cathedral is long and complicated. The porous sandstone,
the facade is
foundation stone was laid on August 15, susceptible to
1248, the chancel was consecrated in 1322, environmental
and building work continued until about impurities, such
1520. The cathedral then stood unfinished as traffic fumes.
until the 19th century, when the original
Gothic designs were rediscovered. It was
finally completed in 1842–80. Precious
works of art include the fabulous Shrine
of the Three Kings, the Altar of the
Magi, and an early-Gothic carving of
the Virgin Mary (c.1290) known as
the Mailänder (Milanese) Madonna.


















Cathedral Interior
The chancel, the ambulatory,
and the chapels retain a large
number of Gothic, mainly
early 14th-century, stained-
glass windows.

KEY
1 The Petrusportal is the only
entrance built in the Middle Ages.
Of the figures flanking the doorway,
five were original Gothic statues, but
these have been replaced by copies. Main
2 Buttresses support the entire entrance
bulk of the cathedral.
3 Elaborately decorated pinnacles
top the supporting pillars.
4 The north tower, at 157.38 m
(516 ft), is slightly higher than the
south tower.


Englebert Reliquary (c.1630)
The treasury on the north side of the cathedral is famous
for its large collection of gold objects, vestments, and
the beautifully decorated liturgical books.
For hotels and restaurants see pp546–8 and pp549–51


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GERM AN Y  535



. Choir VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
The massive oak
stalls were built Practical Information
in 1308–11. Kölner Dom.
They are backed Open 6am–7:30pm daily. 8
by beautiful Domforum (Visitors’ Center):
painted walls. Tel 0221-92 58 47 30.
Treasury: Domkloster 4. Tel 0221-
92 58 47 30. Open 10am–6pm
daily. & 8 Tower: Open May–
Sep: 9am–6pm; Oct–Apr: 9am–
4pm. & ∑ koelner-dom.de



















. Shrine of the Three Kings
This huge Romanesque reliquary
was made by Nikolaus von Verdun
in 1181–1220, to hold the relics of
the Three Kings. These were brought
to Cologne from Italy in 1164 by
Emperor Friedrich I Barbarossa.













High Altar
The Gothic altar dates back to the
consecration of the chancel. The frieze
depicts the Coronation of the Virgin Mary,
flanked by the twelve Apostles.




. Altar of the City Patrons
This magnificent altarpiece (c.1442) by
Stephan Lochner depicts The Adoration
of the Magi. When the panels are
closed, it shows The Annunciation.




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536  GERM AN Y , A USTRIA , AND SWITZERLAND


Northern Germany Chagall, Picasso, and Christo.
Also worth visiting is the
Three federal states – Lower Saxony and the city-states of Niedersächsisches
Hamburg and Bremen – occupy a huge swathe of northern Landesmuseum, whose picture
Germany. Lower Saxony’s capital, Hanover, has splendid gallery has German medieval
architecture and fine museums. Hamburg and Bremen were and Renaissance paintings,
Dutch and Flemish works
wealthy Hanseatic trading towns, and today their ports still play by Rubens, Rembrandt, and
an important role in city life. The region’s other main attractions van Dyck, and 19th- and
are the well- preserved medieval towns of Münster, in North 20th-century German art.
Rhine-Westphalia, and Lübeck in Schleswig-Holstein. West of the city center, the
Herrenhäuser Gärten are
among the most beautiful
j Hanover Baroque gardens in Germany.
* 519,000. £ n Ernst-August-Platz
8 (0511-12 34 51 11). _ Schützenfest E Sprengel Museum
(Jun–Jul). ∑ hannover.de Kurt-Schwitters-Platz. Tel 0511-16
84 38 75. Open Tue–Sun. &
Hanover (Hannover) is the E Niedersächsisches
capital of Lower Saxony, and for Landesmuseum
more than a century, from 1714 Willy-Brandt-Allee 5. Tel 0511-980
to 1837, shared a succession 7686. Open Tue–Sun.
of rulers with Britain. Heavily
bombed during World War II, k Bremen
the city has been largely rebuilt.
Among the city’s finest * 556,000. g £ n Am
landmarks are the grand Bahnhofplatz 15 (0421-308 000).
Opernhaus (Opera House), ∑ bremen-tourism.de
built in Neoclassical style in
The beautifully restored facade of Münster’s 1845–57, and, on Tramm-platz, A member of the Hanseatic
Gothic Rathaus the Neues Rathaus (Town Hall), League from 1358, in the
which dates from 1901–13 and Middle Ages, Bremen was a
h Münster combines Neo-Gothic and thriving seaport, trading in
Secessionist detail. The latter’s grain, wine, and salt. Today,
* 297,000. k £ n Heinrich-
Brüning-Straße 9 (0251-492 27 10). massive central dome offers the independent city-state
∑ muenster.de fine views of the city. still prospers from its port,
On Marktplatz, in the old town, Germany’s second-largest.
Münster’s main sights of interest are many restored, 15th-century, Bremen’s Rathaus (Town
are located in the Altstadt, the half-timbered houses, as well as Hall), on Marktplatz, was built
historic heart of the city. The the Markt-kirche St. Georg und in 1405–10 and boasts a fine
imposing Gothic Rathaus St. Jacobus with its 14th-century Renaissance facade, added to
(Town Hall), carefully restored nave and fine Gothic altar. One the original Gothic structure
following damage during World of Europe’s best museums of 200 years later. Opposite is the
War II, dates from the late 12th modern art, the Sprengel- 11th-century Romanesque
century. In 1648, the Treaty of Museum holds works by Munch, Dom, which contains some
Westphalia was signed here,
ending the Thirty Years’ War.
Münster’s great cathedral, the
Dom St. Paulus, on Domplatz,
was built in 1225–65. Its best-
known treasure is the astro nom-
i cal clock (1540). Also on the
square is the Westfälisches
Landesmuseum, specializing
in Gothic art. Nearby, the
Lambertikirche (1375–1450)
is a fine example of the hall-
churches typical of Westphalia.
West of the center stands
the Residenzschloss. Built in
1767–87, the splendid Baroque
palace, now the headquarters
of Münster’s university,
overlooks pleasant gardens. Hanover’s medieval quarter, with the Church of St. George and St. Jacobus
For hotels and restaurants see pp546–8 and pp549–51


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GERM AN Y  537


the freighter Cap San Diego
and the sailing boat Rickmer
Rickmers (1896).
E Kunsthalle
Glockengießerwall. Tel 040-428 13
12 00. Open Tue–Sun.
g Port
 Baumwall or St-Pauli-Landungs-
brücken. Cap San Diego: Tel 040-36
42 09. Open daily. Rickmer Rickmers:
Tel 040-319 59 59. Open daily.

Attractive gabled houses and the statue of Roland in Bremen’s Marktplatz
fine bas-reliefs. In Marktplatz serves as a monument to the
itself stand a tall statue of tragic consequences of war.
Charlemagne’s knight Roland Nearby, the Jakobikirche (1340)
(1404) and a sculpture of the has been rebuilt in its original
Musicians of Bremen (1953), style. Inside is a massive
recalling the Grimm 17th-century Baroque
fairy tale. organ by Arp Schnitger.
Two museums of note Another fine church is the
are the Kunsthalle, with Baroque Michaeliskirche,
European art dating whose 132 m (433 ft) Lübeck’s 15th-century Holstentor, on the
from the Middle tower gives splendid western edge of the town
Ages to the 20th views of the city. z Lübeck
century, and the Hamburg’s Neo-
Focke Museum, a Renaissance town hall, * 214,000. £ n Holstentorplatz 1
museum of local history on the Rathausmarkt, (0451-889 9700). ∑ luebeck-
and decorative arts. Musicians of Bremen is the fifth in the tourism.de
sculpture city’s history. Just
P Rathaus north of it is a The most important town in the
Marktplatz. Open for guided tours large recreational lake, the Baltic basin at the end of the
only (11am, noon, 3pm, 4pm) book Binnenalster. Also nearby, the Middle Ages, Lübeck is known
ahead. n & 8 prestigious Kunsthalle traces for its wealth of superb
E Kunsthalle the history of European art medieval architecture.
Am Wall 207. Tel 0421-32 90 80. from medieval times to the 20th The city’s 13th-century
Open 10am–9pm Tue, 10am–6pm century. The section devoted Marienkirche (St. Mary’s Church)
Wed–Sun. to the 19th-century German boasts the highest vaulted brick
Romantics is especially good. nave in the world. A short walk
l Hamburg The best-known example away, the turreted Rathaus
of the city’s collection of
(Town Hall) dates from 1226 and
* 1,743,000. k g £ Expressionist buildings is Fritz is a fine example of Lübeck’s
n Hauptbahnhof, Kirchenallee Höger’s Chilehaus (1922–4) distinctive Gothic brick
(040-30 05 17 01). in Kontorhausviertel. architecture. The Gothic Dom
∑ hamburg-tourism.de Hamburg is the second (Cathedral) was begun in 1173.
largest port in Europe after Nearby, the St. Annen-Museum
For many years, Hamburg, Rotterdam, and a tour is highly has historical artifacts dating from
Germany’s second largest city, recommended. There are two the 13th to the 18th centuries.
was a leading member of the museum ships moored here: Another famous monument is
Hanseatic League and the Holstentor (1466–78), the
an independent trading western gateway to the city.
town. In 1945, it became The Buddenbrookhaus is a
a city-state of the museum devoted to the great
Federal Republic. writers Thomas and Heinrich
Hamburg sustained Mann, whose family lived here
considerable damage in 1841–91.
during World War II, and
little of the old town E Buddenbrookhaus
remains. The ruined Heinrich-und-Thomas-Mann-Zentrum,
tower of the Neo- Triptych adorning the main altar in Mengstrasse 4. Tel 0451-122 4192.
Gothic Nikolaikirche Hamburg’s Jakobikirche Open daily. Closed Dec 24, 25 & 31. &




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538  GERM AN Y , A USTRIA , AND SWITZERLAND

Practical Information Police
German police uniforms and
Germany is renowned as a safe, clean, and efficient country to signs are mostly blue (they
visit. Travelers will find that every town has a helpful tourist are green in Bavaria and the
information center offering advice on restaurants, attractions, Saarland, but otherwise blue).
and activities. Larger cities also have Internet websites which Look out for motorized police
units, the Verkehrspolizei, which
give up-to-the-minute information. Hotels are plentiful but are concerned with safety on
may be busy during the festivals and fairs which occur the streets, roads, and highways,
throughout the year in different parts of the country. and are distinguished by their
white caps. Certain town police
have navy-blue uniforms and
When to Visit Australia, and New Zealand, do their job is to catch motorists
The climate in Germany is not need a visa to visit Germany, for parking offences for which
pleasantly temperate. Cities so long as their stay does not they can impose an on-the-spot
and historic monuments are exceed three months. Visitors fine. Remember that you should
best visited in spring or early fall, from South Africa must have a carry ID such as a passport,
particularly in the south of the visa. Visitors from EU countries driving license or student
country where it can be very do not require a passport to card with you at all times.
warm. July and August are ideal enter Germany, as long as they
months for a restful holiday by have a national ID card.
the sea, in the lake districts or in Drugs, animals, animal Pharmacies
the mountains. In Bavaria during products, such as cured meats, Look out for the stylized letter
the second half of September and exotic plants under special “A” (Apotheke), which indicates
and early October, the protection are totally prohibited a pharmacy. They are usually
Oktoberfest takes place. This is an from importation into Germany. open from 8am to 6pm; in
annual beer-drinking event which Regulations also restrict the small towns, they close
is open to all visitors. In import of cigarettes and wine. between 1 and 3pm. In larger
December, everybody is pre- towns, there is always a rota and
occupied with Christmas Personal Security this is displayed in the window
shopping, while during winter, of each pharmacy with a note
skiing is a popular pursuit in the As in other countries, visitors are of addresses. Information on
Black Forest, the Alps, and the far safer in small towns and rota pharmacies may also be
Harz Mountains. The roads are villages than in big cities, where obtained from tourist offices.
busiest during the school extra care must be taken against
holidays, dates of which vary street theft – particularly when Accidents and
from state to state, and during traveling on public transport
the “long weekends” at Easter, during the rush hour. Pickpockets Emergencies
Whitsun, and other national tend to frequent popular tourist If you have an accident or a
public holidays. sights and any events where large serious breakdown on the
groups of people gather. It is motorway, it is best to use one
worth using a money belt to of the special telephones that
Visa Requirements conceal your money and doc- are situated at regular intervals
and Customs
uments. Also keep cameras and along the hard shoulder.
Citizens of countries that are audio equipment out of sight. Throughout the country, a
members of the EU, as well as Better still, leave valuable items special emergency number, 110,
citizens from the US, Canada, in the hotel safe. is answered by an operator who
The Climate of Germany
BERLIN MUNICH
Germany lies in a temperate
climatic zone. In the north, with
marine influences predominating, °C/ºF °C/ºF
summers tend to be quite cool 23/73 23/73
and winters mild, with relatively 14/57 14/57
high rainfall. In the eastern part 13/56 12/54 11/53 13/56
1/34
of the country, however, the 3/37 3/37 -5/23 3/37 3/37 2/36
-5/23
climate is more continental and 6 8 4 2 5 8 5 2
this produces harsher winters hrs hrs hrs hrs hrs hrs hrs hrs
and hotter summers. Germany’s 24 60 41 31 56 99 48 46
highest rainfall and lowest mm mm mm mm mm mm mm mm
temperatures are recorded
in the Alps. month Apr Jul Oct Jan month Apr Jul Oct Jan




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GERM AN Y  539

Communications
will inform the appropriate on Saturday. Banks operate
emergency services. This shorter hours: 9am–3:30pm As everywhere in Europe, the
number is free on all telephones, Monday–Friday, with a introduction of cell phones has
including mobiles. If you lose lunchbreak between noon and brought about a revolution in
your passport, you should go 1pm. They usually stay open later telephone usage. Visitors wishing
to your consulate. one evening a week until 6pm. to use their cell phone in
Some new shopping malls are Germany should contact their
open on Sundays. In smaller service provider for information.
Tourist Information towns, not much tends to The number of payphones taking
A well-developed network of open before 10am, and many coins is constantly dwindling, and
tourist information centers exists businesses close from 1–2pm for a telephone card gives better
in Germany. These are usually lunch, on Saturday afternoons, value for money. They can be
run by the city or regional Sundays and public holidays. bought at post offices and most
tourist authorities, Verkehrsamt. newsagents. Other phones are
They provide advice on operated by credit card only.
accommodations, addresses, Disabled Travelers These phones have their own
and opening hours of There are ramps or lifts for phone number, so you can
monuments, museums, tours, people confined to wheelchairs arrange to be called back.
and excursions, as well as at large museums and major Post offices are usually open
brochures covering the most historical sites. Banks are also from 6am–8pm on weekdays
important tourist attractions. accessible by wheelchair and and from 8am–noon on
They may also be able to find there are lifts at railroad stations Saturdays. Stamps can be
and book you a hotel room. and larger underground bought at post offices as
stations. Some public transport well as stamp machines,
is adapted to take wheelchairs. and are sometimes sold along
Opening Hours
Most higher grade hotels have with postcards.
The opening hours of stores, suitably equipped bedrooms.
offices, and most other Public restroom facilities in Banking and Currency
businesses depend to a great parking lots, train stations,
extent on the size of the town. and airports usually have Germany has used the euro
In larger cities, office hours are suitable cubicles. For since 2002 (see p23). Foreign
usually from 9am until 6pm, and information contact currency can be changed at
larger shops are open from 9am Bundesverband Selbsthilfe banks, most hotels, or bureau
to 8pm weekdays, and until 6pm Körperbehinderter (BSK). de change (Wechselstube).
DIRECTORY
Tourist Stuttgart UK Ambulance
Information Königstraße 1a, Wilhelmstraße 70, Tel 112.
70173 Stuttgart. 10117 Berlin.
German National Tel 0711-222 82 53. Tel 030-20 45 70. Disabled
Tourist Office ∑ stuttgart-tourist.de ∑ britischebotschaft.de Travelers
Tel 069-97 46 40. Mobility
∑ www.germany.travel Embassies US International
Clayallee 170, 14195
Berlin Australia Berlin. Tel 030-83050. North America.
Pariser Platz, Südliches Wallstraße 76–79, 10179 ∑ usembassy.de Tel 541-343 1284.
Torhaus, 10117 Berlin. Berlin. Tel 030-880 08 80. Bundesverband
Tel 030-25 00 25. ∑ australian-embassy. Consulates Selbsthilfe Körper-
∑ visitberlin.de de UK behinderter (BSK)
Canada Postfach 20, 74238
Frankfurt am Main Leipziger Platz 17, 10117 Neuer Jungfernstieg 20, Krautheim.
Hauptbahnhof Berlin. Tel 030-20 31 20. 20354 Hamburg. Tel 06294-42810.
Empfangshalle, ∑ kanada-info.de Tel 040-44 80 32 36. ∑ bsk-ev.org
60329 Frankfurt US
am Main. New Zealand Königinstraße 5, 80539
Tel 069-21 23 88 00. Friedrichstraße 60, 10117 Munich.
Berlin. Tel 030-20 62 10.
∑ frankfurt-tourismus. ∑ nzembassy.com/ Tel 089-288 80.
de
germany
Munich South Africa Emergency
Numbers
Marienplatz, Rathaus, Tiergartenstraße 18,
80331 Munich. 12683 Berlin. Police and Fire
Tel 089-2339 6500. Tel 030-22 07 30. services
∑ muenchen-tourist.de ∑ suedafrika.org Tel 110 or 112.



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540  GERM AN Y , A USTRIA , AND SWITZERLAND

Travel Information accident. The two automobile
associations Allgemeiner
Traveling to and around Germany is fast and easy. In every large Deutscher Automobil Club
city there is an airport, and most of these offer international (ADAC) and Automobilclub
connections. The whole of Germany is linked by a dense network von Deutschland (AvD) offer
of highways, while the main roads are of a high standard and roadside assistance.
well signposted. Train travel throughout the country is
comfortable and reliable; for longer journeys, it is worth taking Rules of the Road
advantage of the fast connections offered by InterCityExpress In Germany, the same road
(ICE). Buses are also comfortable and efficient and can be traffic regulations apply as
essential in rural areas that cannot be reached by train. Large in most European countries.
cities have tram, bus, and sometimes subway services. The car must carry a plate
indicating country of origin,
and be equipped with a red
warning triangle for use in
Arriving by Air experience a minimum of delay case of breakdown.
Germany’s most important and formalities at the border. The wearing of seatbelts
airports are Berlin, Frankfurt am There are limits on the amount is compulsory and children
Main, Munich and Düsseldorf. of duty-free items that can be under 12 must sit in the back,
You can get connecting flights brought in by non-EU citizens with babies and toddlers
from these to other cities such (see p21). secured in child-seats.
as Hamburg and Stuttgart. The Driving after drinking a small
country’s national airline is Traveling by Car amount of alcohol is allowed,
Lufthansa, which flies between but if you have an accident,
Germany and most of the The fastest and most the consequences will be
world’s major destinations. From comfortable way to travel more severe if a breathalyzer
the UK, flights are operated by around the country is by road. shows alcohol in your blood.
BA and BMI. Ryanair, Air Berlin, Germany’s excellent network In built-up areas, the speed
easyJet, and Germanwings all of toll-free highway routes limit is 50 km/h (31 mph);
offer cheaper alternatives as well. guarantees fast journeys over beyond this it is 100 km/h
There are frequent flights long distances, while a well- (62 mph), and on highways
from the US to Germany, mainly maintained system of good there is no limit, of which many
to Munich and Frankfurt, which smaller roads means that many drivers take full advantage.
is Germany’s largest airport and interesting places throughout When traveling with a caravan
one of the busiest in Europe. the country are within easy or camping trailer outside built-
Direct flights are available reach. On smaller roads and in up areas, drivers should not
from many major US cities. remote areas, filling stations exceed 70 km/h (44 mph), and
Although Canada does not may be few and far between. on highways 100 km/h (62
have many direct flights to The German Autobahn mph). Road traffic police are
Germany, Air Canada operates (highway) network is extensive. strict about imposing fines for
regular flights to Frankfurt from An Autobahn is indicated by speeding. Drivers can also be
Toronto and Vancouver. Qantas the letter “A” followed by a fined for driving too close to
connects to Frankfurt from number – some also have a the vehicle in front and for
many Australian cities. letter “E” and a number, parking in prohibited areas.
denoting that the road crosses
the German border. They are
Domestic Flights Parking in Towns
all toll-free and have regularly
In addition to Lufthansa, there spaced filling stations, as well Finding a place to park is not
are a number of smaller airlines as parking lots with restrooms, easy; it is often best to use a
in Germany including Air Berlin, restaurants, and motels. A multi-level parking lot, which is
which may offer cheaper fares Bundesstraße (main road) has indicated by “Parkhaus”; a sign
than Lufthansa on internal the letter “B” and a number. with the word “Frei” indicates
routes, as well as providing air In the event of an accident on that spaces are available. It is
links with small airports, such as an Autobahn, or if sudden traffic never worth leaving your car in
Augsburg, Dortmund, and Erfurt. congestion means you have to a prohibited area. If you do risk
brake hard, drivers should turn it, a traffic warden may find your
on their flashing emergency car, immediately impose a fine
Border Crossing lights to warn drivers behind and arrange for the car to be
There are many crossings into of the danger. Along the hard towed away. Retrieving your car
Germany and provided that you shoulder there are yellow poles is then expensive and difficult.
carry the necessary documents with emergency buttons, which Cars left in a parking zone
and your car does not look can be used to call for help if must either display a parking
disreputable, you should you have a breakdown or an ticket or be at a meter.




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GERM AN Y  541

Traveling by Train to reserve seats, but in the high the S-Bahn. When they are
Traveling around Germany by season this is a good idea and above ground, remember
train is not the cheapest form of it does not cost a lot. If you are that trams have right of way.
transport, but it is undoubtedly staying for some time and want Various types of ticket can be
one of the most efficient. Trains to use trains frequently, one way bought from machines located
operated by Deutsche Bahn, to travel more cheaply is to buy by the entrance to stations.
the German rail company, are a BahnCard. After an initial hefty Children under six travel free,
renowned for their punctuality, outlay, this gives you a 50 per while those under 14 get a
safety, and cleanliness. The cent discount on rail tickets for a reduced rate.
fastest are InterCityExpress (ICE) whole year.
trains; these are aerodynamically
designed, painted white, City Transport Traveling by Bus
with air-conditioning in the There is a good network of inter-
coaches and airline-style seats. Several major cities in Germany, city bus services in Germany,
Unfortunately, there is not including Berlin, Hamburg, though journeys are generally
much room for luggage. These Munich, and Nuremberg, have no cheaper than traveling by
trains can travel at more than a network of fast connections train. Most towns have a
200 km/h (125 mph), which by subway (U-Bahn). U-Bahn Zentraler Omnibus Bahnhof (ZOB)
means that a journey from stations are indicated by square close to the train station. Most
Hamburg to Munich takes just signs with a white “U” on a dark bus services originate here and
under six hours. ICE trains blue background, while S-Bahn you can also get timetables and
operate on just a few routes stations have round signs with buy your tickets here.
linking the largest cities. The a white “S” on a green
InterCity (IC) trains, which stop background. The U-Bahn offers Cycling Tours
only at certain stations, are very frequent services – at peak
cheaper but still offer an express hours, trains normally run every Cycling is a slow but
service. For short distances, it is 3–5 minutes – and stations are environmentally friendly
best to take the Regional Express only a short distance from each means of getting around. It
(RE) trains. The S-Bahn (short for other. The S-Bahn trains are less also enables you to combine
Schnellbahn) is a fast commuter frequent and the stations are sightseeing with physical
rail network which operates in farther apart. exercise. It is easy to rent
some of the major German cities. In some cities (especially in bikes in some tourist areas,
eastern Germany), trams are the particularly at main train
most common method of stations from April to October.
Train Fares travel; in some cities, they also Bikes can be taken on trains, on
Train fares in Germany are have underground sections. the U-Bahn, and the S-Bahn.
quite expensive and there Trams are ideal urban transport For cycling routes, you will
is a compulsory surcharge because they do not get stuck find that many newsstands,
(Zuschlag) for express train in traffic jams. You can use the bookstores, and tourist
travel. It is not usually necessary same tickets as on buses and offices have excellent maps.
DIRECTORY
Airlines easyJet Airport Sixt Rent-a-Car
∑ easyjet.com Information Tel 0180-625 525.
Air Berlin ∑ sixt.com
∑ airberlin.com Germanwings Berlin Airports
∑ germanwings.com Tel 030-60 91 11 50.
Air Canada Emergency
Tel 069-27 11 51 11. Lufthansa Frankfurt am Main Services
∑ aircanada.ca Tel 069-86 79 97 99 Tel 0180-63 72 46 36.
Tel 800-645 3880(US). ADAC
American Airlines ∑ lufthansa.com Munich Tel 01802-222 222.
Tel 069-5098 5070. Qantas Tel 089-975 00.
Tel 800-433 7300 (US). Tel 069-299 571 421. AvD
Tel 069-660 63 00.
∑ AA.com ∑ qantas.com Car Rental
BMI Ryanair Avis Train Travel
∑ flybmi.com ∑ ryanair.com Tel 01806-21 77 02.
∑ avis.com Deutsche Bahn
British Airways United Airlines National Rail Inquiries:
Tel 0421-557 57 58. Tel 069-86 79 97 99 Hertz Tel 0180-699 6633.
Tel 0844-493 0787 (UK). Tel 800-864 8331 (US). Tel 0180-633 3535.
∑ britishairways.com ∑ united.com ∑ hertz.com





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542  GERM AN Y , A USTRIA , AND SWITZERLAND

Shopping Shopping in Berlin
Although German cities all
Stores in Germany are generally of high quality but many boast shopping malls and every
products are not cheap. In Berlin, almost anything can be town has a shopping district
bought, so long as you know where to look; outside Berlin, popular with local residents,
you’ll discover that in many areas of the country, the tradition Berlin stands out with its choice
and quality of shops. If it is
of producing handicrafts and various types of folk art luxury you want, you must
continues. A visit to a local market could give you the chance head for the large stores
to buy a regional specialty to take home as a souvenir. The on the Kurfürstendamm,
vast shopping malls that are springing up in every large city Friedrichstraße, and Potsdamer
offer a wide choice of stores and top-quality brands. Platz, where all the major
fashion houses and perfume
makers have their stores.
Markets In Friesland and Schleswig in the Alternatively, if you want to
A weekly market, known as a north, marinated herrings and explore the smaller boutiques
Wochenmarkt, is held in many excellent cheeses are worth of lesser-known designers,
towns throughout Germany. In trying. The hams of Westphalia make your way to Berlin’s
smaller towns, stalls are set up have a well-deserved Hackescher Markt in the Mitte
in the market square, while in reputation, as do sausages from district, or to Prenzlauer Berg.
larger towns and cities, markets Braunschweig (Brunswick). Kaufhaus des Westens,
may be held in specially better known as KaDeWe in
designated squares in different Wittenbergplatz, is the biggest
neighborhoods. At these Gifts and Souvenirs and the best department store
markets, you can buy fresh Just about every region of in Berlin. Only products of the
fruit and vegetables, cheeses, Germany has something special highest quality are sold in these
and many everyday items. to offer. You could buy a beer luxurious halls, where virtually
Specialist fairs are often held stein from a beer hall, or a cuckoo everything you need is on sale –
at weekends – for example clock from the Black Forest, for from unusual perfumes and
Blumenmärkte, where flowers instance. If you are keen on elegant underwear to haute
are sold, or Kunstmärkte, where dressing up, traditional clothes couture, all sold in a system
artists and craftsmen display such as lederhosen and dirndl of stores-within-stores. The
their work for sale. skirts can be found in Bavaria. For food hall on the sixth floor is
Every large town also has children, handmade puppets and legendary for its restaurant
its Flohmarkt (fleamarket) marionettes are good gifts, while overlooking Tauentzienstrasse.
where, among the masses of in Nuremberg there is a wide Galeries Lafayette on
junk, pieces of amusing kitsch selection of toys. Don’t forget that Friedrichstraße is nothing less
and genuine antiques can German optical items such as than a slice of Paris placed in
sometimes be found. In Berlin, cameras, binoculars, and lenses the heart of Berlin. Its perfumes,
the Antik-und Trödelmarkt is are top quality and may be household items, and clothing
worth a visit. cheaper than at home. attract an enormous clientele,
In Munich, there is a famous many of whom also visit the
market specializing in crafts, food counter, which offers a
antiques, and hardware called Alcoholic Drinks wide range of French specialties.
Auer Dult. This is held during Renowned German beers are An extraordinary glass cone
the last weeks of April, July, best drunk straight from the rises through the middle of the
and October. barrel, but it is also worth store, reflecting the interiors of
looking out for the bottled the stores.
beers that are rarely seen Another very popular store
Regional Specialties
outside Germany. is Karstadt on the Kurfürsten-
Almost every state in Germany There are a number of fine damm. Although its range of
produces its own regional German wines, especially those goods is not as broad as that at
specialty and although you from vineyards in the Mosel and Galeries Lafayette, there is still
might not be able to take Rhine valleys. Excellent wines an enormous choice and its
certain fresh foods back home, are also produced in Bavaria top-floor restaurant offers
you could try them while you and Baden-Württemberg. excellent views over the city.
are visiting. For example, Lübeck Various types of spirits, as well New shopping malls are
is known for marzipan, while as herbal and root-flavored being opened all the time,
Nuremberg is synonymous with liqueurs and bitters, are usually situated conveniently
gingerbread. The Spreewald produced on a large scale. If you close to S-Bahn stations.
region is known for its pickled visit a monastery, you may be Passagen (arcades) are massive
cucumbers, while you’ll find the able to buy a bottle of a herbal three-level structures,
cherry jam produced in the infusion or a liqueur that is resembling huge arcaded
Black Forest region is excellent. made to a centuries-old recipe. passageways, which contain




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GERM AN Y  543


an enormous number of stores, stores are concentrated in these exquisite quality. Berlin’s
ranging from supermarkets streets: Maximilianstrasse, KPM (Königliche Porzellan-
and pharmacies to bars, fashion Theatinerstrasse, Residenz- Manufaktur), which has been
outlets, and bookstores. Like strasse, and Briennerstrasse. in operation for over 250 years,
most of the stores in Berlin, The place to shop for also makes excellent porcelain.
they stay open until 8pm food in Munich is the colorful German glassware is
during the week and are Viktualienmarkt near Marien- renowned. Old glassworks
open on Sundays. platz. This has been the city’s in Saxony and Bavaria still
One of the newest shopping main food market for more make glassware by traditional
malls is the Potsdamer Platz than 200 years. techniques; for example,
Arkaden. Built in October 1998, The largest and most beautifully cut and polished
this is now very popular both as interesting shopping area in crystal tableware and ruby-
a shopping mall and a meeting Frankfurt is the Zeil, while in colored glassware.
place for Berliners and visitors. Hamburg it is the Alsterhaus. Some porcelain and glassware
A symbol of the old West’s Hamburg also prides itself on its factories operate retail outlets
resurgence, the shapely Bikini- many fine shopping arcades, with showrooms. Visitors can
Haus is a reincarnation of a several of which are covered arrange to have purchases
1950s’ shopping mall, with and heated, making them ideal sent to their home.
upmarket design and fashion for window shopping.
retailers, restaurants, a boutique Bookstores
hotel, a movie theater, and a
panoramic view over Berlin Zoo. Ceramics and Glass When you need a book
Porcelain made by Meissen is in English or an American
among the most sought-after newspaper, Dussmann
Shopping in Other Cities in the world but it is expensive. English Bookshop is the place
Most shoppers in Munich make Meissen porcelain can be to go in Berlin. In Munich,
a beeline for the pedestrian found in the town itself at look for the Words’ Worth
precinct in the old town center the Staatliche Porzellan- and Geobuch for good
between Karlsplatz and Manufaktur (see p515) or in maps and guides. In Frankfurt,
Marienplatz. Here, you will find several shops situated along try the British Bookshop.
many big department stores the popular Kurfürstendamm The Bücherbogen chain
such as Ludwig Beck am in Berlin. Munich’s Porzellan offers a huge choice of books
Rathauseck and chain stores Manufaktur Nymphenburg, and has several outlets in
where you can buy fashion and which has a factory and a Berlin and elsewhere; the
shoes as well as jewelry, shop in the grounds of Schloss one under the S-Bahn bridge
souvenirs, and music. For haute Nymphenburg (see p525), near Savignyplatz in Berlin
couture in Munich, the big-name produces china of similarly has the largest stock.
DIRECTORY
Markets KaDeWe Ceramics and Bookstores
Tauentzienstraße 21–24, Glass
Antik-und Berlin. Tel 030-212 10. British Bookshop
Trödelmarkt KPM Börsenstraße 17, Frankfurt
Ostbahnhof, Erich- Karstadt Wegelystraße 1, Berlin. am Main.
Steinfurth-Straße, Berlin. Kurfürstendamm 231, Tel 069-28 04 92.
Berlin. Tel 030-39 00 90.
Open 9am–5pm Sun. Tel 030-88 00 30. Bücherbogen
Auer Dult Potsdamer Platz Porzellan Manufaktur Savignyplatz, Berlin.
Mariahilfplatz, Munich. Arkaden Nymphenburg Tel 030-31 86 95 11.
Open last weeks of Apr, Alte Potsdamer Straße 7, Schloss Nymphenburg, N.
Jul & Oct. Berlin. Tel 030-255 92 70. Schloßrondell 8, Munich. Dussmann English
Tel 089-179 19 70. Bookshop
Shopping in Shopping in Odeonsplatz 1, Munich. Friedrichstraße 90, Berlin.
Berlin Other Cities Tel 089-28 24 28. Tel 030-20 25 11 11.
Bikini-Haus Ludwig Beck am Staatliche Porzellan- Geobuch
Hardenbergplatz 2, Berlin. Rathauseck Manufaktur Rosental 6, Munich.
Am Marienplatz 11,
∑ bikiniberlin.de Tel 089-26 50 30.
Munich. Tel 089-23 69 10. Talstraße 9, Meissen.
Galeries Lafayette Viktualienmarkt Showroom Open Words’ Worth
Französische Straße 23, Peterplatz–Frauenstraße, 9am–6pm (Nov–Apr: to Schellingstraße 3, Munich.
Berlin. Tel 030-20 94 80. Munich. Open Mon–Sat. 5pm). Tel 03521-46 82 08. Tel 089-280 9141.





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544  GERM AN Y , A USTRIA , AND SWITZERLAND

Entertainment (being renovated until 2018) and
the Komische Oper are in the
With so much on offer in Germany, it is possible to indulge eastern part of city, while the
just about any taste, whether you are looking for avant- Deutsche Oper Berlin is in the
garde theater and performance art, atmospheric clubs, west. The three opera houses
or prestigious music festivals. Outside Berlin, the larger have ballet programs built into
their repertoires, and these are
cosmopolitan cities, such as Munich and Frankfurt, also performed largely by resident
offer a wide range of entertainment, from classical drama dance companies.
to eclectic nightclubs, from grand opera to discos. Munich has two opera houses
and several distinguished
resident orchestras. A visit to the
Entertainment Listings up to as little as an hour before Bayerische Staatsoper is a must
Tourist information centers offer a show. These tickets are usually if you appreciate grand opera and
basic information in every city sold at a 50 per cent discount. ballet. The Gasteig is a modern
and town, but the most Students, senior citizens, and complex offering a range of
comprehensive guides are in the disabled are entitled to a classical concerts, large and small.
the local press and listings 50 per cent discount on tickets, Munich’s Prinzregententheater
magazines. In Berlin, there are for which they must present is the main venue for ballet and
Tip and Zitty, which are proof of their status. other musical performances.
published every other Frankfurt has a wide choice of
Wednesday. The daily Berliner Theater musical events. At the Alte Oper,
Morgenpost publishes its there are three halls for orchestral
supplement bm Live on Fridays, As you would expect in the land and vocal performances, while
while Ticket comes out on of Goethe and Schiller, theatrical the Jahrhunderthalle also offers
Wednesdays, together with traditions are very strong in classical recitals and concerts.
Tagesspiegel. Germany. Almost every large
Useful listing magazines in town has a good local theater. Jazz, Rock, and Pop
Munich are In München and Berlin’s most famous theater
Münchener Stadtmagazin. There is the magnificent Berliner Berlin is always a popular
is also a monthly review in Ensemble, which was once destination for world-famous
English called Munich Found, managed by Bertold Brecht. musicians, whose concerts are
available from the Tourist Office. The Deutsches Theater offers often held in the Waldbühne.
You can get a monthly jazz an ambitious program, while Numerous music clubs offer daily
magazine called Münchener the Volksbühne stages works opportunities to hear good music.
Jazz- Zeitung in music shops by young playwrights. Favorite venues are Quasimodo in
and at jazz cafés and clubs. Munich has many theaters, with the western part of the city center,
In Frankfurt, a magazine most of the productions in Schlot in Mitte and Junction Bar
detailing events called Prinz is German. A venerable venue in Kreuzberg. Good traditional jazz
on sale from news kiosks. There is the Cuvilliéstheater in the can be heard at Berlin’s annual
are also free publications such Residenz (see pp520–21), while Jazzfest in the first week of
as Fritz, while the Frankfurter the Deutsches Theater offers November. Pop-Kultur, the
Woche is available from the some foreign plays. The successor of Berlin Music Week,
tourist office for a small sum. Kammerspiele is dedicated is a rock and pop festival that takes
to contemporary works. place at venues in and around
Frankfurt has a theater that Berghain Bar at the end of August.
Booking Tickets offers productions in English, In Munich in the late evening,
Theater and concert tickets can aptly called the English Theatre. you could drop into a small, hip
usually be booked up to two You will find a range of old club like Atomic Café or go to
weeks in advance, and you and new plays put on at the hear blues, rock, or jazz at
can buy directly at the box city’s main theater, the Feierwerk. Dixieland jazz is
office or by telephone. Reserved Schauspiel Frankfurt. played at the Alabamahalle
tickets must be picked up and and traditional jazz at Jazzclub
paid for at least half an hour Classical Music and Unterfahrt. There are often
before the performance. For free rock concerts in Munich
many performances in Berlin, Dance in summer at the Theatron in
you can also pre-book tickets Berlin has one of the finest Olympiapark. Frankfurt has an
at Ticket Online. orchestras in the world – the enthusiastic jazz scene which is
One Berlin agency that Berlin Philharmonic Orchestra, centered around Jazzgasse (Jazz
specializes in last-minute whose home, the Philhar monie, Alley) or Kleine Bockenheimer
ticket purchase is Hekticket is also one of the world’s most Straße. Here, you will find the
Theaterkassen on beautiful concert halls. The city city’s top jazz venue, Jazzkeller,
Hardenbergstraße, where you boasts three opera houses: the in a cellar. If you like to listen to
can get tickets on the day, even Staatsoper Unter den Linden different kinds of live music such




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GERM AN Y  545

Outdoor Activities
as African, Asian, and salsa, produced many of the world’s
try Brotfabrik, which also foremost musicians, so classical Germany is the ideal destination
has a café. music festivals are popular and for a range of outdoor activities,
Discos in Munich and Frankfurt take place in many German including hiking, cycling, fishing,
mainly cater, naturally enough, towns. To give a few examples, and sailing. It also has a number
for a young crowd and play there is a Bach Festival in June of winter-sports resorts with
music of all kinds: from chart hits, in Leipzig (see p515), while Bonn first-class ski slopes, the best
funk, and techno to heavy metal. (see p533) is the venue for the being in the Bavarian Alps,
Some have a dress policy. International Beethoven Festival which lie only an hour’s drive
from late September. Beginning from Munich.
in late July, Bayreuth (see p512) There is a tradition of great
Festivals and Fairs
hosts the annual Opernfest of horsemanship in Germany.
Germans love festivals and fairs Richard Wagner’s Ring Cycle. Keen riders will find excellent
and this country probably has However, be aware that you facilities in many areas, as well
more than most other European cannot just turn up for a as the chance to attend
countries. The most famous is performance here – you will international competitions.
the Oktoberfest in Munich (see have to book tickets at least Tennis is the second most
p526), which is a huge event a year in advance or else get popular sport (after soccer)
that celebrates beer with two them with a package holiday. and there are several annual
weeks of drinking, from the last December brings a rush of professional tournaments. You
week in September. Not to be fairs. Many towns and cities, can play on the many public
outdone, wine-drinkers can including Berlin and Munich, courts, or find a hotel with its
enjoy a wine festival (Weinfest) stage a Christmas market own facilities. Golfers with the
in August in the Rhine-Mosel (Christkindlmarkt), but the one appropriate handicap can play
area and in October in the in Nuremberg is considered on most golf courses simply by
Rhineland. Germany has to be the most impressive. paying a green fee.
DIRECTORY
Booking Tickets Kammerspiele Jahrhunderthalle Berghain Bar
Maximillianstraße 28, Pffafenwiese, Frankfurt. 70 Am Wriezener
Hekticket Bahnhof, Friedrichshain,
Munich. Tel 069-360 12 36.
Theaterkassen Tel 089-233 966 00. 10243 Berlin.
Hardenbergstraße 29d, Komische Oper Tel 030-29 36 02 10.
Berlin. Tel 030-23 09 930. Schauspiel Frankfurt Behrenstraße 55–57, Brotfabrik
Neue Mainzer Straße 17, Berlin. Bachmannstraße 2–4,
Ticket Online Tel 030-47 99 74 00.
Frankfurt. Frankfurt.
Tel 01806-447 00 00. Tel 069-212 494 94. Philharmonie Tel 069-247 90 800.
∑ ticketonline.de Feierwerk
Volksbühne Herbert-von-Karajan- Hansastraße 39, Munich.
Theater Rosa-Luxemburg-Platz, Straße 1, Berlin. Tel 089-72 48 80.
Berlin. Tel 030-24 06 57 77. Tel 030-25 48 89 99.
Berliner Ensemble Prinzregenten- Jazzclub Unterfahrt
Bertolt-Brecht-Platz 1, Classical Music theater Einsteinstraße 42, Munich.
Berlin. Tel 030-28 40 81 55. and Dance Prinzregentenplatz 12, Tel 089-448 2794.
Cuvilliéstheater Alte Oper Munich. Tel 089-21 85 02. Jazzkeller
Kleine Bockenheimer
Residenzstraße 1, Munich. Opernplatz, Frankfurt. Staatsoper Straße 18a, Frankfurt.
Tel 089-21 85 19 40. Tel 069-134 04 00. Unter den Linden 7, Tel 069-28 85 37.
Berlin. Junction Bar
Deutsches Theater Bayerische Tel 030-20 35 45 55. Gneisenaustraße 18,
Schumannstraße 13a, Staatsoper Berlin. Tel 030-694 66 02.
Berlin. Max-Joseph-Platz 2, Jazz, Rock, and
Tel 030-28 44 12 25. Munich. Pop Quasimodo
Kantstraße 12a, Berlin.
Deutsches Theater Tel 089-21 85 19 20. Alabamahalle Tel 030-31 80 45 60.
Werner-Heisenberg-Allee Deutsche Oper Domagkstraße 33, Schlot
1, Munich. Bismarckstraße 35, Berlin. Munich. Invalidenstraße 117,
Tel 089-55 23 44 44. Tel 030-34 38 43 43. Tel 089-368 14 50. Berlin. Tel 030-448 21 60.
Waldbühne
English Theatre Gasteig Atomic Café Am Glockenturm, Berlin.
Kaiserstraße 34, Frankfurt. Rosenheimer Straße 5, Neuturmstraße 5, Munich. Tel 01806-57 00 70 (for
Tel 069-24 23 16 20. Munich. Tel 089-480 980. Tel 089-228 30 54. tickets).





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546  GERM AN Y

Where to Stay

FARTHER AFIELD: Ackselhaus €€€ Price Guide
Berlin Boutique Prices are based on one night’s stay in
Belforterstraße 21, 10405 high season for a standard double room,
EAST OF CENTER: Three Tel 030-443 376 33 inclusive of service charges and taxes.
Little Pigs Hostel Berlin € ∑ ackselhaus.de € under €75
Historic Map E4 A beautifully restored 19th- €€ €75 to €125
Stresemannstraße 66, 10963 century property with individually €€€ over €125
Tel 030-263 958 80 designed rooms and suites.
∑ three-little-pigs.de DK Choice
Comfortable accommodation FARTHER AFIELD:
set in an old convent building in Riehmers Hofgarten €€€ WEIMAR: Villa Hentzel €€
a vibrant, multicultural area. Historic Boutique
Yorckstraße 83, 10965 Bauhausstraße 12, 99423
EAST OF CENTER: Tel 030-780 988 00 Tel 03643-865 80
Adlon Kempinski €€€ ∑ riehmers-hofgarten.de ∑ hotel-villa-hentzel.de
Luxury Map E3 A grand mansion set in an over The 19th-century Villa Hentzel
Unter den Linden 77, 10117 200-year-old courtyard. Elegant has been home to several
Tel 030-226 115 55 decor and modern amenities. writers; for a time, it also played
∑ kempinski.com host to the Chilean Embassy.
The Adlon offers exquisitely Lovingly renovated, the large
decorated bedrooms. Facilities rooms are individually furnished
include a Michelin-starred Eastern Germany and boast touches that are
gourmet restaurant and a spa. reminders of the building’s past.
DRESDEN: Within walking distance of
EAST OF CENTER: Innside by Melia €€ central Weimar, the hotel is
Hotel de Rome €€€ Modern wonderful value for money.
Luxury Map E3 Salzgaße 4, 01067
Behrenstraße 37, 10117 Tel 0351-795 150
Tel 030-460 60 90 ∑ innside.com WEIMAR: Best Western Premier
∑ roccofortecollection.com Chic hotel in a central location. Grand Hotel Russischer Hof €€€
A lavish hotel featuring classy Rooms have avant-garde decor, Historic
furnishings and alfresco dining and there is a rooftop bar. Goetheplatz 2, 99423
on a rooftop terrace. Tel 03643-77 40
DRESDEN: Schloss Eckberg €€ ∑ russischerhof-weimar.de
WEST OF CENTER: Altberlin €€ Historic More than 200 years old, this
Modern Map D4 Bautznerstraße 134, 01099 luxurious hotel has a great
Potsdamerstraße 67, 10785 Tel 0351-809 90 café and bakery on site.
Tel 030-260 670 ∑ schloss-eckberg.de
∑ altberlin-hotel.de A 19th-century castle with WEIMAR: Romantik Hotel
Enjoy great modern amenities stylish decor, elegant grounds, Dorotheenhof Weimar €€€
in an enviable location. All 50 and a superb restaurant. Luxury
rooms at this hotel are furnished Dorotheenhof 1, 99427
with exquisite antiques. DRESDEN: Taschenbergpalais Tel 03643-45 90
Kempinski €€€ ∑ dorotheenhof.com
WEST OF CENTER: Sofitel Luxury This is the place for reasonably
Berlin Kurfürstendamm €€€ Taschenberg 3, 01067 priced luxury in superb
Luxury Map C4 Tel 0351-491 20 surroundings. Lovely rooms
Augsburgerstraße 41, 10789 ∑ kempinski.com of various sizes.
Tel 030-800 99 90 Located right next to the Royal
∑ sofitel.com Palace. Most of the luxury rooms
Sleek high-rise in a great location. have views of the river or the old
Unwind at the wellness center, market square.
which has a sauna and solariums.
DK Choice
DK Choice LEIPZIG: Steigenberger
FARTHER AFIELD: Circus €€ Grandhotel Handelshof €€€
Modern Luxury
Rosenthalerstraße 1, 10119 Salzgäßchen 6, 04109
Tel 030-200 039 39 Tel 0341-350 58 10
∑ circus-berlin.de ∑ steigenberger.com
This fun hotel close to the city’s The huge rooms at this hotel
nightlife has high standards of are decorated in an avant-garde
service and is great value for style with lots of color. Superb
money. Extras on offer range dining options include two
from bike rentals to rickshaw restaurants and a brasserie,
tours and babysitting. The while the basement has a large
Circus Café serves elaborate fitness complex with a sauna
breakfasts and good coffee. and Turkish bath. Free Wi-Fi. Simple but smart decor at Circus, an
affordable option in Berlin

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TR A VELERS ’ NEEDS  547


Munich
Amalienburg €€
Boutique
Amalienburgstraße 24–26, 81247
Tel 089-891 15 50
∑ hotel-amalienburg.de
Set in a tranquil corner of the
city, the Amalienburg features
artistic design touches in its
attractive, modern rooms.
Hotel Laimer Hof €€
Historic
Laimerstraße 40, 80639 Distinctive turquoise touches at Motel One München Sendlinger Tor, Munich
Tel 089-178 03 80
∑ laimerhof.de BAYREUTH: Ramada Hotel PASSAU: Wilder Mann €€
A Neo-Renaissance villa with Residenzschloss Bayreuth €€ Historic
classically furnished rooms. The Modern Rathausplatz, 94032
Laimer Hof provides free bikes to Erlangerstraße 37, 95444 Tel 0851-350 71
explore the peaceful environs. Tel 0921-758 50 ∑ wilder-mann.com
∑ ramada.de A centrally located hotel with
DK Choice Fairly standard chain hotel with traditional furniture – including
a royal wedding bed.
comfortable rooms, a sauna, and
Motel One München a good restaurant.
Sendlinger Tor €€ ROTHENBURG: Gerberhaus €€
Modern Map B4 DK Choice Historic
Herzog-Wilhelm-Straße 28, 80331 Sptialgasse 25, 91541
Tel 089-517 772 50 FREIBURG IM BREISGAU: Tel 09861-949 00
∑ motel-one.com Zum Roten Bären €€€ ∑ hotel-gerberhaus.de
This reliable budget chain Historic Stay in an attractive room in this
has really taken off in Germany, Oberlinden 12, 79098 converted 16th-century tannery.
and with good reason. The Tel 0761-38 78 70
Munich establishment offers ∑ roter-baeren.de STUTTGART: Hotel Espenlaub €
excellent-value rooms with Germany’s oldest hotel, Zum Modern
bright turquoise features that Roten Bären opened in 1120 Charlottenstraße 27, 70182
lend a certain minimalist and became part of the city Tel 0711-210 910
elegance. There is also a great gate in 1250. The contemporary ∑ stadthotels-erkurt.de
café-bar and lounge on site. rooms feature the occasional Basic hotel with bright rooms
antique item, providing a sense and a modest breakfast buffet.
of history. First-class breakfasts.
The Charles Hotel €€€ STUTTGART:
Luxury Der Zauberlehrling €€€
Sophienstraße 28, 80333 HEIDELBERG: Boutique
Tel 089-544 55 50 Der Europäischer Hof €€€ Rosenstr. 38, 70182
∑ roccofortehotels.com Luxury Tel 0711-237 77 70
This sumptuous hotel has huge Friedrich-Ebert-Anlage 1, 69117 ∑ zauberlehrling.de
rooms with good views over the Tel 06221-5150 Located in a hip district, this hotel
nearby botanical gardens. ∑ europaeischerhof.com has tastefully themed rooms.
Premier hotel with individually
Cortiina €€€ decorated rooms, several great WÜRZBURG:
Boutique restaurants, and a bar. Hotel Würzburger Hof €€
Lederestraße 8, 80331 Modern
Tel 089-242 24 90 HEIDELBERG: Barbarossaplatz 2, 97070
∑ designhotels.com Zum Ritter St Georg €€€ Tel 0931-538 14
Elegant hotel whose individually Historic ∑ hotel-wuerzburgerhof.de
decorated rooms and cocktail bar Hauptstraße 178, 69117 Richly decorated rooms come
ooze creative opulence. Tel 06221-1350 in a range of styles and prices.
∑ ritter-heidelberg.de
Housed in a magnificent late-
Renaissance mansion in the city
Southern Germany center. Not all rooms are en-suite. Western Germany
BAMBERG: St Nepomuk €€€ NUREMBURG: BONN: Schlosshotel
Gasthöfe and Pensionen Le Méridien Grand €€€ Kommende Ramersdorf €€
Obere Mülbrücke 9, 96049 Boutique Historic
Tel 0951-984 20 Bahnhofstraße 1, 90402 Oberkasselerstraße 10, 53227
∑ hotel-nepomuk.de Tel 0911-232 20 Tel 0228-440 734
Pleasant, airy rooms with modern ∑ lemeridiennuernberg.com ∑ schlosshotel-kommende-
facilities at this old timber-framed Hotel with sleek Art Deco and ramersdorf.de
hotel with an exceptional Art Nouveau stylings. Sauna and A beautiful castle with antique-
location on the river. an excellent regional brasserie. filled rooms and a good eatery.
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548  GERM AN Y

BREMEN: Atlantic
Grand Hotel €€
Modern
Bredenstraße 2, 28195
Tel 0421-620 620
∑ atlantic-hotels.de
Stylish, contemporary hotel in the
heart of old town. The rooftop
lounge offers great city views.
HAMBURG: Gastwerk
Hotel Hamburg €€
Historic
Beim Alten Gaswerk 3, 22761
Tel 040-890 624 24
∑ gastwerk.com
A home away from home at the Fairmont Hotel Vier Jahreszeiten, Hamburg Housed in an impressively
renovated gasworks plant.
DK Choice MAINZ: €€ Industrial-style rooms and lofts
feature all modern amenities,
Hof Ehrenfels
COLOGNE: Excelsior Historic and there is an exceptional spa.
Hotel Ernst €€€ Grebenstraße 5–7, 55116
Luxury Tel 06131-971 23 40 DK Choice
Trankgaße 1–5, 50667 ∑ hof-ehrenfels.de
Tel 0221-2701 Housed in a 15th-century HAMBURG: Fairmont
∑ excelsiorhotelernst.com convent overlooking the Hotel Vier Jahreszeiten €€€
A historical and truly grand cathedral, this smart, half- Historic
hotel beside Cologne Cathedral, timbered hotel features a Neuer Jungfernstieg 9–14, 20354
with rooms and suites that rustic wine bar. Tel 040-349 40
are contemporary but retain ∑ fairmont-hvj.com
timeless, classical features. The MAINZ: Hyatt An elegant hotel with many
several dining options here Regency Mainz €€€ rooms overlooking the Alster,
include the Michelin-starred Luxury and some with a private
gourmet restaurant Taku. Malakoff-Terraße 1, 55116 balcony. Subtle luxury, subdued
Tel 06131-731 234 design, superb service, and a
∑ mainz.regency.hyatt.com great spa and fitness club are
COLOGNE: This sophisticated five-star some of the features. Guests
Hotel im Wasserturm €€€ hotel, with a busy beer garden, can also choose from several
Boutique is housed in a striking building bars and restaurants, including
Kaygaße 2, 50676 overlooking the Rhine. the Haerlin, which has two
Tel 0221-200 80 Michelin stars.
∑ hotel-im-wasserturm.de TRIER: Becker’s €€
Housed in a former water tower. Boutique
The oddly shaped rooms are Olewigersstraße 206, 54295 HANNOVER:
fitted with all modern amenities. Tel 0651-938 080 Central-Hotel Kaiserhof €€€
∑ weinhaus-becker.de Historic
FRANKFURT AM MAIN: Stylish vineyard guesthouse in a Ernst-August-Platz 4, 30159
Hamburger Hof €€ wine-producing suburb of Trier. Tel 0511-368 30
Modern The room decor is reminiscent ∑ centralhotel.de
Poststraße 10–12, 60329 of Japanese minimalism. Classically furnished guest
Tel 069-271 396 90 rooms in a historic building plus
∑ hamburgerhof.com TRIER: Villa Hügel €€€ an acclaimed restaurant.
A modern hotel with sleek Luxury
design and a breakfast buffet. Bernhardstraße 14, 54295 LÜBECK: Centro Hotel Kaiserhof
Tel 0651-937 100 DeLuxe Lübeck €€
FRANKFURT AM MAIN: ∑ hotel-villa-huegel.de Historic
Hessischer Hof €€€ This upscale Art Nouveau villa Kronsforder Allee 11–13, 23560
Luxury sports cheerful rooms and a sun Tel 0451-703 301
Friedrich-Ebert-Anlage 40, 60325 terrace, with lovely valley views. ∑ centro-hotels.de
Tel 069-754 00 A grand old hotel with
∑ hessischer-hof.de impressive classic rooms,
Exquisitely styled, with well- and a seafood restaurant.
equipped classic rooms, some Northern Germany
furnished with antiques. MÜNSTER: Romantik
BREMEN: Heldt € Hotel Hof zur Linde €€€
MAINZ: Hotel am Römerwall € Gasthöfe and Pensionen Modern
Modern Friedhofstraße 41, 28213 Handorfer Werseufer 1, 48157
Am Römerwall 51–55, 55131 Tel 0421-436 03 00 Tel 0251-327 50
Tel 06131-25 77 ∑ hotel-heldt.de ∑ hof-zur-linde.de
∑ roemerwallhotel.de The Heldt is a contemporary A lovely farm hotel with
A Jugendstil villa with simple but small hotel with tasteful rooms, magnificent river views.
comfortable rooms in a quiet, as well as apartments. Services Suites and cottages have
leafy area near the Old Town. include free bike rental. their own fireplaces.
Key to Price Guide see page 546
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Date 19th February 2013
Size 125mm x 217mm