(DK Eyewitness) Travel Guide - Spain

EYEWITNES S TRAVEL

Spain






































































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EYEWITNES S TRAVEL

Spain






































































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Project Editor Nick Inman
Art Editors Jaki Grosvenor, Janis Utton Introducing Spain Barcelona
Editors Catherine Day, Lesley McCave,
Seán O’Connell
Designers Susan Blackburn, Dawn Davies- Discovering Spain 10 Introducing
Cook, Joy Fitzsimmons, Helen Westwood Barcelona 142
Main Contributors John Ardagh, Putting Spain on
David Baird, Mary-Ann Gallagher, Vicky the Map 18
Hayward, Adam Hopkins, Lindsay Hunt, Old Town 146
Nick Inman, Paul Richardson, Martin
Symington, Nigel Tisdall, Roger Williams A Portrait of Spain 22 Eixample 162
Photographers Max Alexander, Joe Cornish,
Neil Lukas, Neil Mersh, John Miller, Kim Sayer, Spain Through the Year 44 Montjuïc 172
Linda Whitwam, Peter Wilson
The History of Spain 50 Further Afield 178
Illustrators Stephen Conlin, Gary Cross,
Richard Draper, Isidoro González-Adalid
Cabezas (Acanto Arquitectura y Urbanismo Barcelona Street
S.l.), Claire Littlejohn, Maltings Partnership, Northern Spain Finder 183
Chris Orr & Assocs, John Woodcock
Printed and bound in China Shopping and
Introducing
First published in the UK in 1996 Entertainment in
by Dorling Kindersley Limited Northern Spain 78 Barcelona 190
80 Strand, London WC2R 0RL
Galicia 88
18 19 20 21 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1
Reprinted with revisions 1997, 1999,
2000, 2001, 2002, 2003, 2004, 2005, Asturias and Cantabria 104 Eastern Spain
2006, 2007, 2008, 2009, 2010, 2011,
2013, 2014, 2016, 2018 The Basque Country, Introducing Eastern
Copyright 1996, 2018 © Dorling Navarra and La Rioja 118 Spain 202
Kindersley Limited, London
A Penguin Random House Company Catalonia 210
All rights reserved. No part of this
publication may be reproduced, stored
in a retrieval system, or transmitted in Aragón 230
any form or by any means, electronic,
mechanical, photocopying, recording
or otherwise, without the prior written Valencia and Murcia 246
permission of the copyright owner.
A CIP catalogue record is available
from the British Library.
ISBN 978-0-2413-0604-8
Floors are referred to throughout in
accordance with European usage; ie the
“first floor” is the floor above ground level.
Colourful exterior of Casa Batlló, Barcelona
The information in this
DK Eyewitness Travel Guide is checked regularly.
Every effort has been made to ensure that this book is as up-to-date as possible
at the time of going to press. Some details, however, such as telephone numbers,
opening hours, prices, gallery hanging arrangements and travel information are
liable to change. The publishers cannot accept responsibility for any consequences
arising from the use of this book, nor for any material on third party websites, and
cannot guarantee that any website address in this book will be a suitable source of
travel information. We value the views and suggestions of our readers very highly.
Please write to: Publisher, DK Eyewitness Travel Guides, Dorling Kindersley,
80 Strand, London, WC2R 0RL, UK, or email: travelguides@dk.com.
Title page Madrid’s Plaza de Cibeles at Christmas time Front cover image The charming Vila Vella, or Old Town, in Tossa de
Mar, Catalonia Back cover image Mountaintop city of Ronda overlooking El Tajo Gorge



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Contents







Madrid

Introducing Madrid 270
Old Madrid 272
Bourbon Madrid 286
Crystal-clear waters in a sheltered cove along the Costa Brava
Further Afield 304
Madrid Street Finder 311 Southern Spain Travellers’ Needs
Shopping and Introducing Southern Where to Stay 558
Entertainment in Spain 420
Madrid 320 Where to Eat and
Seville 430 Drink 576
Madrid Province 330
Seville Street Finder 453 Shopping 606

Central Spain Shopping and Entertainment 608
Entertainment in
Seville 460 Outdoor Activities
Introducing Central and Specialist
Spain 340 Andalucía 464 Holidays 610

Castilla y León 350
Spain’s Islands Survival Guide
Castilla-La Mancha 382
Introducing Spain’s Practical Information 616
Extremadura 404
Islands 508
Travel Information 626
The Balearic Islands 510
León Cathedral General Index 636
(see pp358–9) The Canary Islands 532
Phrase Book 671






















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6  HOW T O USE THIS GUIDE
HOW TO USE THIS GUIDE


This guide helps you to get the most using maps, photographs and
from your visit to Spain. It provides illustrations. Features cover topics
detailed practical information and from food and wine to fiestas and
expert recommendations. Introducing beaches. Restaurant and hotel
Spain maps the country and sets it in recommendations can be found in
its historical and cultural context. The Travellers’ Needs. The Survival Guide
five regional sections, plus Barcelona has tips on everything from transport
and Madrid, describe important sights, to using the telephone system.


Barcelona, Madrid BOURBON MADRID M ADRID  287 All pages relating to Madrid have
green thumb tabs. Barcelona’s are
and Seville To the east of Old Madrid, there once lay to expand and embellish the city pink and Seville’s are red.
an idyllic district of market gardens known
as the Prado, the “Meadow”. In the 16th in the 18th century. They built grand
squares with fountains, a triumphal
century a monastery was built and later gateway, and what was to become the
These cities are divided into the Habsburgs extended it to form a Museo del Prado, one of the world’s
palace, of which only fragments now
greatest art galleries. A more recent
addition to the area is the Museo Nacional
remain; the palace gardens are now the
areas, each with its own chapter. popular Parque del Retiro (see p301). Centro de Arte Reina Sofía, a collection of
modern Spanish and international art.
The Bourbon monarchs chose this area
For Barcelona and Madrid, a last Sights at a Glance Streets, Squares and Parks A locator map shows where you are in
Historic Buildings
1 Hotel Ritz by Belmond
2 Plaza Cánovas del Castillo
w Real Academia de la Historia
4 Plaza de Cibeles
chapter, Further Afield, covers e Teatro Español u Plaza de Colón See also Madrid Street Finder, relation to other areas of the city centre.
i Calle de Serrano
r Ateneo de Madrid
t Congreso de los Diputados
p Parque del Retiro
y Café Gijón
a Real Jardín Botánico
peripheral sights. Madrid s Estación de Atocha CALLE DE HERMOSILLA maps 5, 6, 7, 8
Museums and Galleries
3 Museo Thyssen-Bornemisza
pp292–3
CALLE DE CLAUDIO COELLO
Province, surrounding the 6 Biblioteca Nacional de España CALLE DE GENSOLA CALLE DE GENOVA Colón DESCUBRIMIENTO JORGE JUAN GOYA
CALLE DE
PLAZA VILLA
DE PARIS
7 Museo Nacional de Artes
JARDINES DEL
Decorativas
C. DE BARBARA DE BRAGANZA COLETOS
8 Salón de Reinos
CALLE DE
capital, has its own chapter. 0 Museo del Prado pp296–9 CALLE DE CALLE DEL ALMIRANTE RECOLETOS DE SERRANO Serrano CALLE DE LAGASCA Area Map
q Casa-Museo de Lope de Vega
Estación de
Recoletos
o Museo Arqueológico Nacional
d Museo Nacional Centro de Arte
CALLE DE PRIM
All sights are numbered and Monuments BARQUILLO PASEO DE RE C. DE SALUSTIANO CALLE Retiro 1For easy reference, sights are
Reina Sofía pp302–3
OLOZAGA
5 Puerta de Alcalá
Banco de España DE CIBELES PLAZA CALLE DE INDEPENDENCIA ALCALA numbered and located on a
PLAZA DE LA
Churches
plotted on the chapter’s area 9 Iglesia de San Sevilla CALLE DE ALCALA CALLE DE MONTALBAN map. City centre sights are also
Jerónimo
el Real
CALLE DE LOS MADRAZO
map. Information on each sight C. DEL PRINCIPE CARRERA DE SAN JERONIMO PLAZA DE PASEO DEL PRADO LEALTAD PLAZA DE LA CALLE DE JUAN DE MENA PASEO SALON DEL ESTANQUE marked on Street Finders:
CALLE DE ZORRILLA
CALLE DE ANTONIO MAURA
CALLE DE ALFONSO XI
CALLE DEL PRADO
CANOVAS
is easy to locate, as it follows the CORTES DEL CASTILLO CALLE DE MORETO C A L L E D E A L F O N S O X I I DEL RETIRO Barcelona (pages 183–9);
P ARQUE
CALLE DE LOPE DE VE GA
numerical order on the map. Antón Martín CALLE DE MORATIN PA S E O D E L PLAZA DE MURILLO CALLE DE PASEO DE LA REPUBLICA DE CUBA Madrid (pages 311–19);
CALLE DE LAS HUERTAS
ESPALTER
CALLE DEL GOBERNADOR P R
REAL JARDÍN
BOTÁNICO PASEO DEL DUQUE FERNAN NUNEZ
CALLE DE ALMADEN A D O
CALLE DE ATOCHA
CALLE DE CLAUDIO
Atocha MOYANO Seville (pages 453–9).
PLAZA DEL
EMPERADOR
CARLOS V
Sights at a Glance lists the Estación de Atocha 0 metres 200
CALLE DE SANTA ISABEL
Atocha Renfe 0 yards 200
chapter’s sights by category: C. DE MENDEZ ALVARO
Churches and Cathedrals, Memorial to the victims of the 2004 terrorist attacks, Parque del Retiro For map symbols see back flap
Museums and Galleries, Streets
286-287_EW_Spain.indd 287 288  M ADRID 20/07/2015 11:40 BOURBON M ADRID  289
and Squares, Historic Buildings, Street-by-Street: Paseo del Prado 5 . Puerta de Alcalá
Sculpted from granite, this
former gateway into the
In the late 18th century, before the museums and
Parks and Gardens. lavish hotels of Bourbon Madrid took shape, the city is especially beautiful
when floodlit at night.
Paseo del Prado was laid out and soon became
a fashionable spot for strolling. Today the Paseo’s
main attraction lies in its museums and art galleries.
Most notable are the Museo del Prado (just south
of the Plaza Cánovas del Castillo) and the Museo Palacio de Comunicaciones Locator Map
Thyssen-Bornemisza, both displaying world-famous Palacio de and City Hall See Madrid Street Finder maps 7, 8
collections. Among the grand monuments built The Paseo del Prado, based on the Linares
under Carlos III are the Puerta de Alcalá, the Fuente Piazza Navona in Rome, was built by
de Neptuno and the Fuente de Cibeles, which Carlos III as a centre for the arts and P L A Z A D E L A
sciences in Madrid.
stand in the middle of busy roundabouts. Banco de Espaňa Metro
Street-by-Street Map P L A Z A D E C A L L E D E A LC A L Á I N D E P E N D E N C I A
2This gives a bird’s-eye view of V A L D E I G L E S I A S B A R Q U I L L O A L F O N S O X I
C I B E L E S
the key areas in each chapter. C A L L E D E A L C A L Á 4 . Plaza de Cibeles
Roman goddess Cybele stands
in this square.
The Edificio Metrópolis Banco de España C A L L E D E L M A R Q U E S CALLE DE MONTALBAN C A L L E D E A L F O N S O X I I A fountain with a statue of the
(see p285), on the corner of
Gran Vía and Calle de Alcalá,
was built in 1910. Its façade C A L L E D E L O S M A D R A Z O C A L L E D E
is distinctively Parisian.
Stars indicate the sights D E C U B A S
P A S E O D E L P R A D O Artes Decorativas
that no visitor should miss. PLAZA DE LA LEALTAD
Z O R R I L L A C A L L E A N T O N I O M A U R A 7 The Museo Nacional de
This museum, near the Retiro,
was founded in 1912 as a
manufacturing industry.
3 . Museo Thyssen-Bornemisza showcase for the Spanish
P LAZ A
290  M ADRID This excellent art collection occupies DE L AS R U I Z D E A L A R C O N
the Neo-Classical Villahermosa Palace, BOURBON M ADRID  291
completed in 1806. C OR TES P LAZ A 8 Salón de Reinos
C ÁNOV AS The former army museum, this
7 Museo Nacional
1 Hotel Ritz by a symbol of Madrid. Around t Congreso de los Diputados section of the Palacio del Buen
Retiro may form part of the
Spain’s parliament witnessed the
Belmond the square rise four important transition from dictator ship to C ASTILL O C A L L E F E L I P E I V Prado Museum.
de Artes Decorativas
DEL
Plaza de la Lealtad 5. Map 7 C3. buildings. The most impressive democracy (see pp72–3). M O R E T O
Calle Montalbán 12. Map 8 D2.
are the town hall, where the
Tel 91 701 67 67.  Banco de España. mayor has his office, and the Tel 91 532 64 99.  Retiro, Banco de To Museo Casón del Buen
^ 7 ∑ ritz.es España. Open 9:30am–3pm Tue–Sat
main post office, the Palacio de 0 metres 100 2 Plaza de Cánovas del Castillo del Prado 1 Hotel Ritz by Belmond Retiro (see p296)
(& 5–8pm Thu), 10am–3pm Sun.
Comunicaciones, also home to 100 In the middle of this large square Hotel Palace With its belle époque interior, The Monumento del Dos
Closed public hols. & (free Thu pm &
A few minutes’ walk from the a cultural centre, CentroCentro. 0 yards stands a sculpted fountain of the this is one of the most de Mayo commemorates Key
Sun). 8 Sun (except Jul & Aug).
the War of Independence
Prado, this hotel is said to be Its appearance – white, with ∑ mnartes decorativas.mecd.es elegant hotels in Spain. against the French (see p67). Suggested route
god Neptune in his chariot.
Spain’s most extravagant. It was high pinnacles – is often likened
part of the new breed of hotels to a wedding cake. It was built For hotels and restaurants in this area see pp568–9 and pp592–3 For additional map symbols see back flap
Housed in the 19th-century
constructed as luxury accommo- between 1905 and 1917 on Palacio de Santoña near the
dation for the wedding guests of the site of former gardens. Parque del Retiro, the National
Alfonso XIII in 1906. On the northeast side is Museum of Decorative Arts
Its opulence (see p569) is the stone façade of the Palacio 288-289_EW_Spain.indd All Pages contains an interesting collec- 20/07/2015 11:40
reflected in its prices. Each of the de Linares, built by the Marquis tion of furniture and objets
158 rooms is beautifully Visitors admiring the works of art in the of Linares at the time of the d’art. The exhibits are mainly A suggested route for a walk
decorated in a different style, with Museo Thyssen-Bornemisza second Bourbon restoration of from Spain and date back as far
carpets made by hand at the Real 1875 (see p68). Once threatened as Phoenician times.
Fábrica de Tapices (see p310). 3 Museo Thyssen- with demo lition, the palace was There are also some excellent
At the start of the Civil War Bornemisza reprieved and converted into the ceramics from Tala vera de is shown in red.
(see pp70–71) the hotel was Casa de América, and now hosts la Reina (see p390), and
converted into a hospital, and See pp292–3. art exhibitions by Latin American ornaments from the Far East.
it was here that the Anarchist artists as well as theatrical Refurbishment work may
leader Buenaventura Durruti performances and lectures. Take affect some rooms.
died of his wounds in 1936. 4 Plaza de Cibeles a break in the palace gardens
Map 7 C1.  Banco de España. and try one of Le Cabrera’s 8 Salón de Reinos
excellent cocktails (see p593).
Casa de América exhibition room: In the northwest corner of the Detailed information
Tel 91 595 48 00. Open 11am–8pm Plaza de Cibeles, surround ed by Calle Méndez Núñez 1. Map 8 D2.
Mon–Sat, 11am–3pm Sun. Closed attractive gardens, is the heavily  Retiro, Banco de España.
Aug & public hols. 8 11am, noon, guarded Army Head quarters, Closed for refurbishment.
1pm Sat & Sun. ∑ casamerica.es which is housed in the buildings The Salón de Reinos (Hall 3The sights in the three
The Plaza de Cibeles is one of the former Palacio de Buena- of Kingdoms) is one of the
of Madrid’s best-known and vista. Commissioned by the Central arch of the Puerta de Alcalá two remaining parts of the
most beautiful landmarks. Duchess of Alba in 1777, const- 17th-century Palacio del Buen main cities are described
The Fuente de Cibeles stands ruction was twice delayed by fire. 5 Puerta de Alcalá 6 Biblioteca Retiro and gets its name from
in the middle of the busy traf fic On the opposite corner is the Map 8 D1.  Retiro. Nacional de España the shields of the 24 kingdoms
island at the junc tion of the Paseo Banco de España, constru cted of the Spanish monarchy,
del Prado and the Calle de Alcalá. between 1884 and 1891. Its This ceremonial gateway is Paseo de Recoletos 20–22. Map 6 D5. part of the decor supervised individually. Addresses,
This sculpted fountain is named design was inspired by the the grandest of the monu- Tel 91 580 78 00. Open 9am–9pm by court painter Velázquez
Mon–Sat, 9am–2pm Sun. Closed
in his attempt to improve the
IV, the Salón was used for
goddess of nature, and shows her
The Fuente de Neptuno after Cybele, the Greco-Roman Venetian Renaissance style, ments erected by Carlos III public hols. 8 5pm Tue & Fri, noon (see p36). In the time of Felipe telephone numbers, opening
with delicate ironwork adorn ing
diplomatic receptions and
sitting in her lion-drawn chariot.
looks of eastern Madrid. It was
Sat. 7 ∑ bne.es
the roof and windows. Much-
2 Plaza Cánovas Design ed by José Hermosilla and needed renovation work has designed by Francesco Sabatini official ceremonies.
del Castillo Ventura Rodríguez in the late returned the bank to its late to replace a smaller Baroque King Philip V of Spain founded
gateway, which had been built
19th-century magnificence.
18th century, it is considered
the National Library in 1712.
Map 7 C3.  Banco de España. by Felipe III for the entry into Since then, it has been hours, admission charges,
Madrid of his wife, Margarita mandatory for printers to
This busy roundabout is named de Austria. submit a copy of every book
after Antonio Cánovas del Construction of the gate printed in Spain. Currently tours, photography and
Castillo, one of the leading began in 1769 and lasted nine it holds some 28 million
statesmen of 19th-century years. It was built from granite publications, plus a large
Spain (see p68), who was in Neo-Classical style, with a number of maps, musical
assassinated in 1897. lofty pediment and sculpted scores and audiovisual wheelchair access are also
Dominating the plaza is the angels. It has five arches – records. Jewels include a first-
Fuente de Neptuno – a fountain three central and two edition Don Quixote and two
with a statue depict ing outer rectangular ones. handwritten codes by da Vinci. provided, as well as public
Neptune in his chariot, being Until the mid-19th century A museum looks at the
pulled by two horses. The the gateway marked the city’s history of the library as well
statue was designed in 1777 easternmost boundary. It now as the evolution of writing,
by Ventura Rodríguez as part stands in the busy Plaza de la reading and media systems. transport links.
of Carlos III’s scheme to Independencia, and is best The library also holds regular
beautify eastern Madrid. The Fuente de Cibeles, with the Palacio de Linares in the background seen when floodlit at night. exhibitions, talks and concerts. Impressive façade of the Salón de Reinos
For hotels and restaurants in this area see pp568–9 and pp592–3
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006-007_EW_Spain.indd 6 27/09/17 10:10 am

HOW T O USE THIS GUIDE  7
CENTR AL SP AIN  383
CASTILLA-LA MANCHA
Guadalajara • Cuenca • Toledo •
Albacete • Ciudad Real
La Mancha’s empty beauty, its windmills and medieval
castles, silhouetted above the sienna plains, was
immortalized by Cervantes in Don Quixote’s epic Introduction
adventures. Its brilliantly sunlit, wide horizons are one of
the classic images of Spain. This scarcely visited region has Spain Area by Area
great, scenic mountain ranges, dramatic gorges and the two 1The landscape, history
monument-filled cities of Toledo and Cuenca.
You will always find a castle nearby in this gorges; on two sides it spills down and character of each Apart from Barcelona, Madrid
region – as the name Castilla sug gests. steep hill sides. Villanueva de los Infantes,
Most were built in the 9th–12th centuries, Chinchilla, Alcaraz and Almagro are
when the region was a battle ground towns of character built between the region is outlined here, and Seville, the country has
between Christians and Moors. Others 16th and 18th centuries. Ocaña and
mark the 14th- and 15th-century frontiers Tembleque each has a splendid
bet ween the kingdoms of Aragón and plaza mayor (main square). showing how the area been divided into 12 regions,
Castile. Sigüenza, Belmonte, Alarcón, La Mancha’s plains are brightened by
Molina de Aragón and Calatrava la natural features of great beauty in its two has developed over the
Nueva are among the most impressive. national parks – the Tablas de Daimiel, and
Toledo, which was the capital of Cabañeros, within the Montes de Toledo. each of which has a separate
Visigothic Spain, is an outstanding Rimming the plains are beautiful upland centuries and what it has
museum city. Its rich architectural and areas: the olive groves of the Alcarria; chapter. The most interesting
artistic heritage derives from a coa- Cuenca’s lime stone mountains; and the
lescence of Muslim, Christian and Jewish peaks of the Sierra de Alcaraz. The wine to offer to the visitor today.
cultures with medieval and Renaissance region of La Mancha is the world’s largest
ideas and influences. expanse of vineyards. Around Consuegra cities, towns and villages,
Cuenca is another attractive city. Its and Albacete fields turn mauve in autumn
and other places to visit, are
Old Town is perched above converging as the valuable saffron crocus blooms.
numbered on a Regional Map.
384  CENTR AL SP AIN C ASTILLA-LA M ANCHA  385
Exploring Castilla-La Mancha
Campisábalos
The historic city of Toledo is Castilla-La Mancha’s major
tourist destination. Less crowded towns with historical ATIENZA Zaragoza
charm include Almagro, Oropesa, Alcaraz and Guadalajara. Maranchón
At Sigüenza, Calatrava, Belmonte and Alarcón there are Sorbe Cogolludo SIGÜENZA Alcolea Embid
medieval castles, reminders of the region’s eventful past. del Pinar Regional Map
Some towns on the plains of La Mancha, such as El Toboso Jadraque Tajuña Virgen de MOLINA DE
and Campo de Criptana, are associated with the adventures
Windmills above Campo de Criptana on the plains of La Mancha Brihuega Cifuentes la Hoz Parque Natural ARAGÓN
of Don Quixote (see p399). The wooded uplands of the
del Alto Tajo
Hanging Houses over the Huécar ravine in Cuenca, Castilla-La Mancha GUADALAJARA Tajo Villanueva de Alcorón 2This shows the road net work
Serranía de Cuenca, the Alcarria and the Sierra de Alcaraz
provide picturesque scenic routes. A haven for bird lovers 0 kilometres 50 Lupiana Beteta
is the wetland nature reserve of the Tablas de Daimiel. 0 miles 30 Madrid Sacedón and gives an illustrated
382-383_EW_Spain.indd All Pages 20/07/2015 11:40 LA ALCARRIA Alcocer Priego Cattle grazing on the isolated plains of La Mancha
Ávila Pastrana Buendía Tragacete
Sights at a Glance Embalse de Cañaveras
Buendía
1 Atienza Madrid Villalba SERRANÍA DE CUENCA overview of the whole region.
2 Sigüenza Escalona Madrid Tajo Ciudad
3 Molina de Aragón Tiétar Maqueda ILLESCAS Huete Júcar Encantada
4 La Alcarria Alberche Guadarrama Carrascosa CUENCA Cañete All interesting places to visit
del Campo
5 Guadalajara TALAVERA Aranjuez Tarancón UCLÉS Teruel
6 Serranía de Cuenca Lagartera DE LA REINA Ocaña Saelices Guadazaón Moya
7 Cuenca pp388–9 Cáceres OROPESA Alcaudete Bargas TOLEDO SEGÓBRIGA San Lorenzo Carboneras Key
de Guadazaón
8 Segóbriga El Puente del de la Jara Tajo Guadamur de la Parrilla Cardenete Motorway are numbered and there are
9 Uclés Arzobispo San Martín de Lillo Corral de Almaguer Embalse de Mira Major road
Montalbán
0 Illescas La Nava de Menasalbas TEMBLEQUE Villaescusa Alarcón Secondary road
q Talavera de la Reina Ricomalillo Sevilleja de Orgaz de Haro Honrubia Scenic route also useful tips on getting
w Oropesa la Jara MONTES DE TOL E D O Los Yébenes EL TOBOSO BELMONTE ALARCÓN Minglanilla Main railway
e Montes de Toledo Anchuras Retuerta Mota del Cuervo Valencia
r Toledo pp392–7 Parque Nacional Pueblo Nuevo CONSUEGRA Iniesta Minor railway
del Bullaque
CAMPO DE CRIPTANA
t Tembleque de Cabañeros Urda Alcázar de Socuéllamos San Clemente Cabriel Regional border to, and around, the region
y Consuegra del Bullaque Puerto Lápice San Juan Júcar Alborea Summit
u Campo de Criptana C A S T I L L A - L A M A N C H A Mahora ALCALÁ DEL
i El Toboso Puebla de Guadiana Porzuna La Roda Jorquera JÚCAR
o Belmonte Mérida Don Rodrigo TABLAS DE Daimiel Tomelloso Munera La Gineta Casas de by car and public transport.
DAIMIEL
p Alarcón Agudo Piedrabuena LAGUNAS DE ALBACETE Juan Núñez
a Alcalá del Júcar Ciudad Real Manzanares La Solana RUIDERA El Bonillo
s Albacete Abenójar Moral de Cueva de Balazote Chinchilla de Valencia
Montesinos
f Alcaraz Chillón Almadén ALMAGRO Calatrava San Carlos Monte Aragón Bonete Almansa
g Lagunas de Ruidera Puertollano VALDEPEÑAS Viveros Robledo Cañada Pozo Alicante
del Valle
h Villanueva de los Infantes Alamillo Caudete (Alacant)
j Valdepeñas CALATRAVA Santa Cruz VILLANUEVA DE ALCARAZ Ontur
k Viso del Marqués Plaza del Judío 1106m LA NUEVA VISO DEL de Mudela Las LOS INFANTES Guadalmena Liétor Hellín
VALLE DE ALCUDIA
l Calatrava la Nueva MARQUÉS Virtudes Mundo Ayna
z Almagro Jaén Ubeda SIERRA DE ALCARAZ Murcia
Elche de la Sierra
x Tablas de Daimiel Yeste
c Valle de Alcudia Arguellite Férez
Letur Fiesta boxes highlight
Tours
d Sierra de Alcaraz Nerpio
the best traditional fiestas
Getting Around
Castilla-La Mancha is best explored by car in the region.
as it is well endowed with a network of
motorways radiating outwards from Madrid.
The region is also served by high-speed AVE
trains which run between Madrid, Seville,
Toledo and Albacete (via Cuenca). Otherwise,
The tranquil Montes de Toledo public transport is infrequent and slow. The village of Alcalá del Júcar
For keys to symbols see back flap
390  CENTR AL SP AIN C ASTILLA-LA M ANCHA  391
R Hospital de la Caridad e Montes de Toledo
Calle Cardenal Cisneros 2. Tel 925 Castilla-la Mancha’s
54 00 35. Open Mon–Sat. & 7 Toledo. @ Pueblo Nuevo del Fiestas
Bullaque. n Parque Nacional de
Cabañeros, 926 78 32 97. 8 La Endiablada (2–3 Feb)
Each area of Spain can be quickly q Talavera de ∑ turismocabaneros.com Almonacid del Marquesado
(Cuenca). At the start of the
la Reina
To the southwest of Toledo a
two-day-long “Fiesta of the
identified by its colour coding, Toledo. * 89,000. £ @ n range of low mountains sweeps Bewitched”, men and boys,
gaudily dressed as “devils”, with
C/ Ronda del Cañillo 22, 925 82 63 22.
towards Extremadura. In
cowbells strapped to their
medieval times the Montes de
( Wed & 1st Sat of month. _ Las
shown on the inside front cover. Mondas (Sat after Easter), Feria de San Toledo were owned by bishops backs, gather in the house of
their leader, the Diablo Mayor.
Isidro (15–18 May), Virgen del Prado
and the kings. They cover some
They accompany the images
1,000 sq km (386 sq miles).
(8 Sep), Feria de San Mateo (20–23
of the Virgen de la Candelaria
Remains of a Roman building in Segóbriga Sep). ∑ talavera.org Traditional embroidery work in Lagartera, The attractive nature re serve (Virgin of Candlemas) and St
of the Parque Nacional de
Blaise in procession. As the
A ruined 15th-century bridge
Cabañeros (see pp34–5)
8 Segóbriga from 1174, because of its cen tral across the Tagus marks the near Oropesa encloses a sizable area of devils dance alongside the
floats bearing the saints’
location. The austere building you entrance to the old part of this woodland and pastures used
Saelices, Cuenca, CM-310, km 58. see today is mainly Renaissance busy market town. From the w Oropesa for grazing sheep. The easiest images, they ring their
Tel 629 75 22 57. Open Tue–Sun. bells loudly and incessantly.
Museum: Closed some public hols. but over laid with Baroque detail. bridge you can walk past the Toledo. * 2,900. £ n Calle access to the park is from
& 8 by appt. ∑ visitclm.com It has a magnificent carved surviving part of the Moorish Hospital 10, 925 43 02 01. ( Mon & Pueblo Nuevo del Bullaque.
From here it is possible to make
wooden ceiling and staircase.
and medieval wall to the 12th-
Thu. _ Virgen de Peñitas (8–10 Sep),
Detailed information The small ruined Roman city century collegiate church. It Beato Alonso de Orozco (19 Sep). four-hour guided trips in Land
Rovers, during which you may
has a small but beautiful Gothic
of Segóbriga, near the town
∑ oropesadetoledo.org
of Saelices, is located in open, 0 Illescas cloister, and 18th-century belfry. Oropesa’s medieval and spot wild boar, deer and
unspoiled countryside close to
imperial eagles. In the
Talavera’s ceramic work shops
3 All the important towns and the Madrid–Valencia motor way. Toledo. * 23,500. £ @ n Plaza still produce the blue and yellow Re naissance splendour as one pasturelands stand chozos,
Mercado 14, 925 51 10 51. ( Thu.
of Toledo’s satellite com munities conical refuges for shepherds.
azulejos (tiles) which have been a
The Romans who lived here
_ Fiesta de Milagro (11 Mar), Virgen
trade mark of the town since the
has left a charming old quarter
exploited the surrounding area,
In the eastern foothills of the
de la Caridad (31 Aug). ∑ illescas.es
other places to visit are described growing cereals, felling timber Illescas was the summer 16th century; but nowadays at the centre of today’s small Montes de Toledo is Orgaz,
and mining minerals.
farming town. A circular Ruta
with a parish church which
they also make domestic and
location for Felipe II’s court.
contains works by El Greco.
decorative objects.
Monumental starts from the
Many parts of the city can be
explored. The 1st-century theatre While there is little to see of its A good selection of azulejos massive, mainly 15th-century Nearby villages, such as Los
individually. They are listed in – which has a capacity of 2,000 Old Town, the 16th-century can be seen in the large Ermita castle on the top of the hill. A Yébenes and Ventas con Peña
Hospital de la Caridad,
de la Virgen del Prado by
people – is sometimes used for
Renaissance extension – thought Aguilera, are known for their
near the Iglesia
to be the work of Juan de Herrera,
leather goods and restaurants
the river. Many of the
perform ances today. Segóbriga
order, following the numbering also had a necropolis, an amphi- de Santa María interior walls have co-architect of El Escorial (see serving game. One of the so-called “devils” in
pp334–5) – was added to the
On the plains stands the
(12th–13th cen tury
superb 16th- to 20th-
theatre, a temple to Diana and
La Endiablada fiesta
century tile friezes
castle in the 16th century by the small church of Santa María
and reno vated in
public baths. The quarries which
wealthy and influential Álvarez
Romería del Cristo del
the 15th), has an
de Melque, believed to date
supplied the stone to build the
of religious scenes.
Sahúco (Whit Monday, May/
on the Regional Map. Within each city can also be seen. important art collec- Ceramics in Talavera century convent, the family. Part of the castle has back to the 8th century. Close Jun), Peñas de San Pedro
Housed in a 17th-
tion, including five
by is the Templar castle of
been converted into a parador.
Nearby, a small mu seum has
(Albacete). A cross-shaped
Montalbán, a vast but ruined
Museo Ruiz de Luna
late El Grecos (see
The Ruta Monumental con-
some of the site’s finds, although
coffin bearing a figure of
workshop
houses the private
tinues around the town, taking
12th-century fortress. Nearer
p395). The subjects of
the best statues are in Cuenca’s
Christ is carried 15 km (9 miles)
Talavera pottery
town or city, there is detailed Museo Arqueológico (see p388). three of these are the collection and personal works in a number of churches, con- to Toledo, at Guadamur, there here from its shrine by men
vents, a small ceramics mu seum
is another handsome castle.
Nativity, the Annunciation and
dressed in white.
of ceramist Juan Ruiz de Luna.
and the town hall which
the Coronation of the Virgin.
9 Monasterio de
La Caballada (Whit
presides over the main square.
Sunday, early Jun), Atienza
information on important Uclés Environs (Guadalajara). Horsemen
follow the route across country
Uclés, Cuenca. Tel 969 13 50 58.
Open 10am–6pm daily (till 8pm Jul & The area around Oropesa is taken by the 12th-century
excellent for buying handicrafts.
muleteers of Atienza, who
buildings and other sights. ∑ visitclm.com Lagartera, just to the west of are said to have saved the boy
Aug). Closed 1 & 6 Jan, 25 Dec. &
King Alfonso VIII of Castile from
the town, is famous for the
The small village of Uclés, to the
his uncle, Fernando II.
south of the Alcarria, is domi- embroidery and lacework by Corpus Christi (May/Jun),
the women in the village, and
Toledo. One of Spain’s most
nated by its impressive castle- El Puente del Arzobispo, 12 km dramatic Corpus Christi (see
monastery, nicknamed “El Escorial (7 miles) south of Oropesa, is a p42) proces sions. The
de La Mancha” for the similarity good source of painted ceramics cathedral monstrance (see
of its church’s profile to that of El and esparto (grass-weaving) p396) is paraded in the
Escorial (see pp334–5). Originally work. Ciudad de Vascos, further streets, whose walls are
an impregnable medieval for tress, southeast, is a ruined 10th- adorned with 48 17th-
Uclés became the monastery century Arab city in splendid A chozo (shepherd’s cabin) in the Parque century Flemish tapestries.
seat of the Order of Santiago Part of a frieze of tiles in Talavera’s Ermita del Virgen del Prado countryside around Azután. Nacional de Cabañeros
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp570–71 and pp595–7
396  CENTR AL SP AIN T OLEDO  397
Toledo Cathedral 390-391_EW_Spain.indd All Pages . Transparente VISITORS’ CHECKLIST 20/07/2015 11:40
This Baroque
The splendour of Toledo’s massive cathedral . Sacristy altarpiece of marble, Practical Information
reflects its history as the spiritual heart of the El Greco’s The jasper and bronze, Calle Cardenal Cisneros 1.
by Narciso Tomé,
Church in Spain and the seat of the Primate of all above the marble is illuminated by Tel 925 22 22 41.
Denuding of Christ,
∑ catedralprimada.es
Spain. The Mozarabic Mass, which dates back to altar, was painted an ornate sky light. Open 10am–6:30pm daily For all top sights, a Visitors’ Checklist
Visigothic times, is still said here today. The present especially for the It stands out (from 2pm Sun), last entry 1 hr
cathedral was built on the site of a 7th-century cathedral. Also from the mainly before closing.
Gothic interior.
church. Work began in 1226 and spanned three Titian, Van Dyck provides the practical information you
here are works by
5 8am, 10am, 10:30am, 5:30pm,
centuries, until the completion of the last vaults in and Goya. 6:30pm Mon–Sat, 8am, 9am,
11am, noon, 1pm, 5:30pm,
1493. This long period of construction explains the 6:30pm Sun (Catholic); 9am Mon–
cathedral’s mixture of styles: pure French Gothic – Sat, 9:45am Sun (Mozarabic). will need to plan your visit.
complete with flying buttresses – on the exterior; Choir, Treasury, Sacristy and
with Spanish decorative styles, such as Mudéjar Chapter house:
Open as above. & ^ 7 9.
and Plateresque work, used in the interior.
Chapterhouse
Above 16th-century frescoes Spain’s top sights
by Juan de Borgoña is this
View of Toledo Cathedral multicoloured Mudéjar ceiling,
Dominating the city skyline unique in the city.
is the Gothic tower at the 4 These are given two or more
west end of the nave. The
best view of the cathedral,
and the city, is from the
parador (see p571). full pages. Historic buildings
KEY
1 The Puerta del Mollete, on the are dissected to reveal their
west façade, is the main entrance to
the cathedral. From this door,
mollete, or soft bread, was
distributed to the poor. interiors. The most interesting
2 The belfry in the tower contains
a heavy bell known as La Gorda (“the
Fat One”). towns or city centres are
3 The Cloister, on two floors, was The polychrome reredos, one of the
. High Altar Reredos
built in the 14th century on the site Entrance via Puerta Llana most beautiful in Spain, depicts
of the old Jewish market. scenes from Christ’s life.
4 Capilla de Santiago shown in a bird’s-eye view,
5 The Capilla de San Ildefonso
contains the superb Plateresque
tomb of Cardinal Alonso Carrillo with sights picked out
de Albornoz.
6 Puerta de los Leones Monstrance
In the Treasury is the
7 The Puerta del Perdón, or Door 16th-century Gothic and described.
of Mercy, has a tympa num decorated silver and gold mon-
with religious characters. strance. It is carried . Choir
8 The Capilla Mozárabe has a through the streets of The carvings on the wooden lower
beautiful Renaissance ironwork grille, Toledo during the stalls depict scenes of the fall of
carved by Juan Francés in 1524. Corpus Christi cele- Granada. The alabaster upper ones
brations (see p391). show figures from the Old Testament.
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp570–71 and pp595–7
396-397_EW_Spain.indd All Pages 20/07/2015 11:40
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008-009_EW_Spain.indd 8 05/10/15 2:36 pm
Eyewitness Travel LAYERS PRINTED:
Section openers template “UK” LAYER
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Date 15th November 2012
Size 125mm x 217mm

introducing


spain





Discovering Spain 10–17
Putting Spain on the Map 18–21

A Portrait of Spain 22–43
Spain Through the Year 44–49
The History of Spain 50–75















































008-009_EW_Spain.indd 9 05/10/15 2:36 pm

10  INTRODUCING SP AIN

DISCOVERING SPAIN

The following tours have been designed A one-week itinerary of Bilbao and the
to take in as many of Spain’s highlights as Basque Lands and a themed 10-day tour of
possible, while keeping long-distance travel Northern Spain follow. Next comes a one-
to a minimum. First come three 2-day tours week itinerary of the Mediterranean coast,
exploring Spain’s most enticing cities: Madrid, from Barcelona to Cartagena via Valencia.
Barcelona and Seville. These itineraries can Finally, we’ve created a tour that combines
be combined to form a week-long tour Madrid with the three great cities of old
(all three cities are linked by fast AVE trains). Al Andalus: Seville, Córdoba and Granada.
Extra suggestions are provided for those Pick, combine and follow your favourite tours,
who want to extend their stay to 10 days. or simply dip in and out and be inspired.


Madrid and Moorish Spain: Granada,
Córdoba and Seville
Key
• Soak up the electric • Marvel at the Mezquita
atmosphere of the in Córdoba and get lost Madrid and Moorish Spain
Spanish capital, Madrid, in the maze of the old Bilbao and the Basque Lands
admiring the world- Jewish Quarter. Wild Spain
class art museums and • Drive through rolling Barcelona and the
being spoiled for choice hills and olive groves to Mediterranean Coast
when it comes to take in a string of pretty
shopping and eating. villages, from Montilla Lleida
• Be seduced by Seville, to Priego de Córdoba,
an enchanting city of enjoying fresh local CATALUÑA Barcelona
narrow whitewashed wines with dinner. Calatayud Sitges
streets, with its La • Visit Granada’s extra- Tarragona
Giralda bell tower and ordinary palace of Alcañiz
the opulent palace of Alhambra, surrounded Tortosa
the Real Alcázar. by the scented gardens Guadalajara Mediterranean
• Explore delightfully of the Generalife and MADRID ARAGÓN Sea
preserved Andalucían the spirit of Al Andalus. Madrid Peníscola
towns like Carmona Tuck into tasty tapas, Teruel
and Écija, with their fine and listen to flamenco Cuenca
palaces and churches. in a hilltop cave. Aranjuez
Toledo PAÍS
VALENCIANO
Valencia
Requena
Tormelloso
Ciudad Real
CASTILLA-LA MANCHA
Xábia
Hellín
Elda
Alicante
Linares MURCIA
Córdoba Murcia
ANDALUCÍA
Huéscar Lorca
Écija Montilla Cartagena
Sevilla Aguilar Priego de Córdoba
Carmona Águillas
Montefrío
Granada Mojácar
La Giralda
The bell tower of the Seville
Cathedral, formerly a minaret, Málaga Almeriá
is World Heritage-listed. Motril
Pier in the Prince’s Garden at Aranjuez Castle, by Gianni Dagli Orti Marbella


010-011_EW_Spain.indd 10 26/09/17 11:52 am

DISC OVERING SP AIN  11


0 kilometres 100
Costa Verde Mar Cantabrico
0 miles 50 Gijón
Cangas Santander
San
Oviedo de Onís Laredo Castro- Sebastián
Urdiales
ASTURIAS Covadonga Cuevas de Santillana Bilbao Gernika
del Mar
Altamira
Lugo Parque Nacional de Santuario de Loiola
los Picos de Europa CANTABRIA
Santiago de Arantzazu Oñati
Compostela GALICIA CASTILLA Y LEÓN
Vitoria
Haro
Wild Spain: Cantabria, Asturias Bilbao and the
and Galicia Basque Lands
• Visit enchanting fishing Parque Nacional de • Be dazzled in Bilbao by

villages-cum-resorts, los Picos de Europa. the spectacular Museo
and the Cantabrian • Hang out in bustling Guggenheim, then shop
capital of Santander. Gijón, then head east at the city’s chic boutiques.
• Wander the perfectly along the craggy Costa • Visit the city of Gernika-
preserved historic town Verde to discover idyllic Lumo’s poignant ancient
of Santillana del Mar, and villages and secret coves. oak, one of few places to
see prehistoric cave art • Spend a day in Roman- survive the 1937 bombing.
at Cuevas de Altamira. walled Lugo, heading • Meander the wild and
• Hike the lofty peaks and on to stone-and-granite beautiful Costa Vasca,
valleys of spectacular Santiago de Compostela. sampling the day’s catch at
enchanting seaside towns.
Lleida
• Soak up the beach glamour
Barcelona of San Sebastián and enjoy
Calatayud CATALUÑA some of the best tapas in
Sitges
the world.
Tarragona
Alcañiz • Inland, visit scenic Santuario
de Loiola and hilltop
Tortosa
Guadalajara ARAGÓN Mediterranean Santuario de Arantzazu.
MADRID Sea • Stroll around delightful
Vitoria, the Basque capital.
Madrid Teruel Peníscola
• Explore the historic wine-
Cuenca producing town of Haro,
Aranjuez
taking in a few bodegas.
Toledo PAÍS
VALENCIANO
Valencia
Requena
Barcelona and the Mediterranean
Tormelloso Coast by Train
• Get lost in Barcelona’s surrounded by the sea,
Ciudad Real
CASTILLA-LA MANCHA Gothic Quarter, then head to dazzling
Xábia
admire Gaudí’s fairy- Valencia, fusing old
tale architecture, and new with flair.
Hellín
Elda shop and eat to • Spend a day in vibrant
Alicante your heart’s content, Alicante (Alacant), chock-
Linares MURCIA then relax on the full of fantastic art
fabulous city beaches.
Córdoba Murcia museums, and with a
ANDALUCÍA • Stroll around Sitges, castle atop a crag boast-
Huéscar Lorca one of the prettiest ing great coastal views.
Écija Montilla Cartagena (and liveliest) towns • Tour traditional Murcia,
Sevilla Aguilar Priego de Córdoba on the Med, then head
Carmona Águillas to Tarragona to visit a taking in its Baroque
Montefrío architecture and old-
Granada slew of Roman remains.
Mojácar 0 kilometres 100 world spirit. Then on
• Relax in lovely Peníscola, to old Cartagena,
0 miles 100 piled up on a promon- stuffed with Punic
Málaga Almeriá tory almost completely and Roman remains.
Motril
Marbella
010-011_EW_Spain.indd 11 26/09/17 11:52 am

12  INTRODUCING SP AIN


2 Days in Madrid

Tapas, flamenco, art,
monuments and museums –
the capital has the lot.
• Arriving Barajas Airport is
13 km (8 miles) from the city
centre, linked by metro, bus
(local and express) and taxi.

Day 1
Morning Begin at the Plaza
Mayor, the huge arcaded square
in Madrid’s historic heart (p277),
then take a stroll around the
surrounding cobbled streets. Playa Mayor, Madrid’s grand arcaded square
Head into the pretty 19th-
century Mercado de San Miguel Day 2 2 Days in Barcelona
(located just off the square) for a Morning Stroll along the
gourmet lunch at one of the Gran Vía (pp284–5), Madrid’s
many chic tapas bars. glittering answer to New York’s Be enchanted by the
Broadway, admiring the turn- city’s medieval quarter,
Afternoon Visit the Prado of-the-20th-century theatres, Modernista monuments,
(pp296–9), Spain’s biggest as well as some of the city’s gourmet cuisine and city
museum. Highlights include first skyscrapers. The street is beaches.
the superlative Las Meninas by now a shopping mecca, packed • Arriving El Prat Airport is
Velázquez, and a host of his with flagship stores. Relax at
works for the Spanish Habsburg one of the arty restaurants in 18 km (11 miles) south of
the city centre, with regular
monarchs. The charming gardens Malasaña (p308).
at the sumptuous Hotel Ritz by train and bus connections.
Belmond just next door are ideal Afternoon Head to the Museo
for a post-museum cocktail. Nacional Centro de Arte Reina Day 1
Sofía (pp302–3), a superb Morning Get lost in the
To extend your trip… contemporary art museum, beautiful stone labyrinth of
Head into the Guadarrama to admire Picasso’s powerful Barcelona’s Gothic Quarter
mountains north of Madrid, Guernica and works by Gaudí, (Barri Gòtic, pp148–9). Visit the
visiting ancient Segovia Miró and Dalí, among others. remarkable ruins of the ancient
(pp368–9) and the walled In the evening, take a tour of Roman colony of Barcino, still
city of Ávila (pp366–7). the lively tapas bars around visible beneath the MUHBA
the Plaza de Santa Ana. Plaça del Rei (home to the
Barcelona History Museum,
pp150–51). Then explore the
magnificent Barcelona
Cathedral (pp152–3), especially
its enchanting cloister. There are
dozens of excellent places in
the area for a quick bite to eat.
Afternoon Wander down
the city’s most famous
promenade, Las Ramblas
(pp154–5), to the Port Vell
(p160), now a marina full of
yachts and pleasure boats.
Then head to the traditional
fishermen’s neighbourhood
of Barceloneta (p160), strolling
through the unbelievably
narrow streets packed with
old-fashioned tapas bars.
If you’re feeling tired take a
Barcelona’s busy, tree-lined pedestrian thoroughfare, Las Ramblas late-afternoon siesta on the
For practical information on travelling around Spain, see pp626–35



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DISC OVERING SP AIN  13


beach before dining on 2 Days in Seville archaeological artifacts and
traditional paella at one of the traditional Andalucían folk
seafront restaurants. art. Enjoy a traditional dinner
The spirit of Al Andalus lives and perhaps some flamenco
Day 2 on in Seville’s whitewashed in the vibrant Triana
Morning Spend the morning lanes, intricately tiled neighbourhood (p452).
at Gaudí’s spectacular (and still mansions and ornate
unfinished) Sagrada Familia courtyards – the perfect Day 2
(pp170–71). Admire the place to enjoy authentic Morning Visit the enticing
awesome façades, and take Spanish pleasures like Barrio Santa Cruz, an
the lift up to the upper galleries flamenco and fino. enchanting warren of narrow
for vertiginous city views. Stroll • Arriving San Pablo Airport lanes lined with ivory houses
up to the nearby Hospital de la is 10 km (6 miles) northeast sporting geranium-filled
Santa Creu i de Sant Pau of the city centre. Take a bus balconies. Spend some time
(p169), set in an enchanting or taxi to the city. From in the fascinating Archivo de
complex of Modernista pavilions. Madrid Airport, the high- Indias (p445), a handsome
Enjoy a lazy lunch in the speed AVE train to Seville 16th-century building that
Eixample neighbourhood. takes 2 hours 20 minutes. contains the historical records
of Spain’s colonization of the
Afternoon Wander down Americas. Take a look at the
the fashionable Passeig de Day 1 paintings in the Hospital de
Gràcia (p164), which is lined Morning Start with a visit to los Venerables (p445), then
with scores of top international Seville’s most recognizable delight in the Casa de Pilatos
designer boutiques and flag- landmark, La Giralda (pp442–3), (pp444–5), a breathtaking
ship stores of famous high- the exquisite minaret-cum-bell palace with a beautiful garden.
street brands. This street is as tower attached to the vast
famous for its Modernista cathedral. The tomb of Afternoon Admire the superb
architecture as it is for its Christopher Columbus can be art collection in the Museo
shopping, and is crowned by found inside the cathedral, de Bellas Artes (p436), housed
two of Gaudí’s most celebrated along with a wealth of lavish in a handsome 17th-century
buildings, the Casa Batlló artworks, but the highlight is convent set around a charming
(p168) and La Pedrera (p169), the extraordinary views from courtyard. Take in the fabulous
both of which must be visited. the top of La Giralda. Then head shops along the nearby Calle
Round out the day with a to the sumptuous Real Alcázar Sierpes, some of which sell
tapas tour of the Eixample (pp446–7), a magnificent royal gorgeous flamenco dresses
neighbourhood’s many bars. palace richly decorated with and mantilla shawls. For
elaborate tiles and stucco work. dinner, there is a great choice
To extend your trip… of tapas bars in the area.
Visit enchanting, medieval Afternoon Cool off with a
Girona (pp218–19), then gentle stroll in the charming To extend your trip…
head to the glorious Costa Parque María Luisa (pp450–51), Drive east, via Carmona and
Brava (p221) for a couple with its colourfully tiled Écija, or travel by train to
of days’ hiking or simply benches and tinkling fountains. Córdoba (pp484–7) to visit
lazing on the beach. There are a couple of fascinating the remarkable Mezquita.
museums to explore, full of


















Mudéjar architecture and intricate stucco work at the Real Alcázar, Seville




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14  INTRODUCING SP AIN


Bilbao and the Day 3: Along the Coast to
Basque Lands San Sebastián (Donostia)
Explore the spectacular Costa
• Duration 7 days.
Vasca (p123), with its plunging
• Airports Arrive and depart cliffs and beautiful bays. Stop off
from Bilbao Airport. at a string of enchanting towns,
such as Lekeitio, Zumaia,
• Transport This tour must be
done by car. Zarautz and pretty little Getaria,
barely changed in centuries.
• Booking ahead Bilbao: Any of these towns are ideal for
Guggenheim tickets a seafood lunch by the beach.
(www.guggenheim-bilbao.
es), any of the Michelin- Day 4: San Sebastián A pretty street in San Sebastián’s Old Town
starred restaurants. Stroll around the narrow streets leads to the Basilica de Santa Maria
surrounding the magnificent
Basilica de Santa María in an unattractive modern
Day 1: Bilbao San Sebastián’s beautiful Old construction from the 1950s,
The vast, spectacular Museo Town (pp126–7), then visit the which nonetheless enjoys a
Guggenheim (pp124–5) Museo de San Telmo, set in a sublime mountain setting.
deserves a day to itself. Admire 16th-century monastery. After
the gleaming curves of Frank lunch in one of the celebrated Day 6: Vitoria
Gehry’s magnificent design traditional tapas bars, hike up Explore the vibrant Basque
from the banks of the river, and the Monte Urgell to enjoy the capital of Vitoria (Gasteiz) (p130),
don’t miss Jeff Koons’ flower- views, then head to the Playa de beginning with the charming
covered Puppy at the entrance. la Concha, a crescent of golden Plaza de la Virgen Blanca. Don’t
Afterwards, stroll along the sand curving round an idyllic miss the older of Vitoria’s two
banks of the river, then enjoy bay. For dinner, splash out on cathedrals, the handsome Gothic
an evening in the atmospheric one of the many Michelin- Catedral de Santa María. After
tapas bars of the city’s Old starred restaurants (see p585). lunch, visit the fascinating Museo
Town (Casco Viejo, p122). de Arqueologia y Naipes (BIBAT),
Day 5: Oñati and the an archaeology museum which
Day 2: Bilbao and Gernika Santuario de Loiola also contains a curious collec-
Spend the morning at Bilbao’s From San Sebastián, drive tion of historic playing cards.
other fantastic art museum, inland through verdant
the Museo de Bellas Artes countryside to the Santuario Day 7: Haro and back
(p122), which displays works de Loiola (p128), a lavish to Bilbao
by Basque, Spanish and inter- 18th-century complex built on Return to Bilbao, but first stop
national artists. The museum the site where the founder of off in Haro (p132), capital of
overlooks the city’s most the Jesuits, San Ignacio de the Rioja Alta region, to pick
beautiful public park, perfect for Loyola, was born in the 1490s. up some of the area’s world-
a stroll. Have lunch in a local Continue to the elegant little famous wines and perhaps
café, and then drive to Gernika- university town of Oñati (p128), enjoy a tasting or two. It’s a
Lumo (pp122–3). Bombed on which boasts a few handsome perfect place for lunch, with
the orders of General Franco in Renaissance buildings. You a host of lively tapas bars
1937, this town now contains could also visit the nearby serving great food to match
a poignant peace museum. Santuario de Arantzazu (p128), the wonderful local wines.

















Frank Gehry’s sleek and gleaming Museo Guggenheim, a spectacular structure of glass, titanium and limestone
For practical information on travelling around Spain, see pp626–35



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DISC OVERING SP AIN  15


Wild Spain: Cantabria,
Asturias and Galicia
• Duration 10 days, or add
this itinerary to Bilbao and
the Basque Lands for a
17-day tour covering a large
swathe of Northern Spain.
• Airports The nearest is in
Santander, also a major ferry
port with services from
the UK. The airport is 5 km
(3 miles) from the city
centre, and linked by bus.
• Transport This tour is
designed to be done by car.
The verdant valleys and majestic mountains of the Parque Nacional de los Picos de Europa
Onís (p111), which enjoys a Day 7: Oviedo
Day 1: Castro Urdiales spectacular mountain backdrop. Spend a day in handsome
and Lardeo Nearby Covadonga (p112) is Oviedo (pp110–11), a historic
Enjoy two of Cantabria’s also worth a visit, a charming city gathered around a splendid,
prettiest and most popular mountain town that is the main Gothic cathedral. Famous across
beach resorts, Castro Urdiales gateway to the stunning Parque Spain for its vibrant cultural
(p117) and Laredo (p117). Each Nacional de los Picos de Europa. life, it has Pre-Romanesque
has a delightful Old Quarter and churches located on the hills
some spectacular beaches. Day 5: Parque Nacional de overlooking the city.
Though the town beaches get los Picos de Europa
busy in summer, you’ll find You could spend weeks in this Day 8: Costa Verde
breathtaking, emptier stretches national park (p112). In one day Head west along the coast
on either side of the towns. you can at least enjoy a fantastic road which skirts the glorious
hike, some rock climbing or Costa Verde (pp108–9). With its
Day 2: Santander simply a picnic among some of cliffs and coves, verdant hills
Next up is the Cantabrian the most spectacular mountain and picturesque villages, this is
capital Santander (p117), which scenery Spain has to offer. easily one of Spain’s loveliest
was completely rebuilt in the and least spoiled stretches of
1940s after a devastating fire Day 6: Gijón coastline. Stop off and explore
destroyed its historic heart. Still Continue west to Gijón (p109), charming towns like Castropol,
an atmospheric port city, it has a port city with a charming old Luarca and Cudillero.
good seafood restaurants and town piled up on a narrow
some wonderful beaches. isthmus. It has some great Day 9: Lugo
restaurants, long beaches and Cross the border into Galicia,
Day 3: Santillana del Mar and a few museums, which are and aim for the ancient city of
the Cuevas de Altamira worth visiting. Lugo (p103). Once an important
Drive west to Santillana del Mar Roman settlement, Lugo is
(p116), which, despite its name, still ringed by spectacular
is not on the coast but set a and remarkably intact Roman
few kilometres inland. It is an walls, which you can climb
enchanting and beautifully to enjoy fabulous views. Within
preserved town, replete the walls, the old city is a
with churches, palaces and charming jumble of narrow
mansions. Then visit the streets and pretty squares –
Cuevas de Altamira (p116), perfect for a wander.
site of prehistoric cave art just
a couple of kilometres from Day 10: Santiago de
Santillana del Mar. Although you Compostela
can’t visit the original caves, the End your journey in the magical
paintings have been re-created city of Santiago de Compostela
in the excellent museum. (pp94–7) – the goal of pilgrims
for more than 1,000 years. An
Day 4: Cangas de Onís enchanting city built of cool
and Covadonga grey stone, it is dominated by its
Stroll around the ancient Beachcombers soak up the sun at Playa del magnificent cathedral, said to
Asturian capital of Cangas de Camello, Santander contain the bones of St James.




012-017_EW_Spain.indd 15 26/09/17 11:00 am

16  INTRODUCING SP AIN


Barcelona and the
Mediterranean Coast
by Train
• Duration 7 days.
• Airports Arrive in
Barcelona’s El Prat Airport,
depart from Murcia’s San
Javier Airport.
• Transport This tour is
exclusively by train. There
is a choice of services on
this route, from the plush,
expensive Talgos to
inexpensive regional and
local trains. Most journey Charming, balconied stone terraces in Barcelona’s Gothic Quarter
times are around an hour –
check timetables and prices a whitewashed maze piled up nightlife as well as a lively
on www.renfe.com.
on a promontory and crowned cultural scene. Take in fabulous
• Booking Ahead Barcelona: with a castle. Have a lazy lunch views from the clifftop Castillo
Sagrada Família tickets. by the beach, then ride the rails de Santa Bárbara and wander
back to Valencia (pp254–7) in around the winding streets of
time for an evening tapas bar the Old Town. Tuck into some
Day 1: Barcelona crawl around the charming tapas in the Old Quarter.
Choose a day from the 2 Days in historic quarter.
Barcelona itinerary on pp12–13. Day 6: Murcia
Day 4: Valencia Another relatively short journey
Day 2: Sitges and Tarragona Spend the day sightseeing in brings you to Murcia (p266), the
Take an early train to Sitges Valencia, beginning with a visit handsome capital of the Murcia
(p228) and spend the morning to the cathedral (pp254–5), region. Its centre is dominated
strolling around this enchanting where you can climb the bell by the vast Gothic cathedral,
seaside town. Enjoy a seafood tower for tremendous views. In completed in 1467 and later
lunch, then catch a train to the afternoon, head to the City given a sumptuous Baroque
Tarragona (pp228–9), once of Arts and Sciences (p257) to façade. The 19th-century casino,
capital of an important Roman take in the interactive science a sort of Spanish social club, is
province and still replete with museum or the Oceanografic, also worth a visit for its dazzling
Roman monuments. Tuck into Europe’s biggest aquarium. For and eclectic decoration.
a seafood dinner by the port. dinner, enjoy a genuine paella – Much of the city centre is
invented in Valencia. pedestrianized, and Murcia’s
Day 3: Peníscola and pretty squares are crammed
Valencia Day 5: Alicante (Alacant) with great tapas bars.
In the morning, all aboard to Enjoy the train journey south
Benicarló-Peníscola, the station through the hills to Alicante To extend your trip…
for Peníscola (p251). Take a (pp264–5), a vibrant seaside city Reward yourself with some
taxi to the historic quarter, that offers great shopping and relaxing beach time and
swimming in the warm,
tranquil waters of the
Mar Menor (p266).

Day 7: Cartagena
The culmination of your trip,
the port city of Cartagena
(p267), is an hour’s train journey
from Murcia. One of the oldest
cities in Spain, it preserves a
slew of remarkable Phoenician,
Roman and Moorish monu-
ments, including a spectacular
Roman theatre and a lofty
castle (now home to a history
museum), which enjoys
Tarragona’s Roman amphitheatre, overlooking the Mediterranean fabulous panoramic views.
For practical information on travelling around Spain, see pp626–35



012-017_EW_Spain.indd 16 26/09/17 11:00 am
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DISC OVERING SP AIN  17


Madrid and Moorish Mezquita (pp486–7), a master­
Spain: Granada, piece of Islamic art, where you
Córdoba and Seville can easily spend a couple of
hours. Then head into the
• Duration 10 days. narrow lanes of the former
• Airports Arrive in Madrid’s Jewish Quarter, and visit the
Barajas Airport, depart from enchanting Palacio de Viana,
Granada Airport. an aristocratic mansion set
around several elegant court­
• Transport High­speed AVE
yards. Enjoy supper on one of
train from Madrid to Seville; Córdoba’s enchanting squares.
hire car for the rest of the trip.
• Booking Ahead Granada: Day 7: Córdoba
entry tickets to Alhambra. Begin your day with breakfast
on the Plaza de La Corredera, a
handsome 17th­century square
Days 1 and 2: Madrid that hosts a daily market. Visit
See the 2 Days in Madrid itinerary the Alcázar de los Reyes Terracotta-and-white-striped arches top
on p12. Cristianos and its blissful countless columns inside the Mezquita
gardens (p484). Choose one of
Days 3 and 4: Seville Córdoba’s many museums to Moorish fortress. Spend the
Take the high­speed AVE train visit in the afternoon, or simply night in either Priego de
from Atocha station to Seville. explore the maze of streets, Córdoba or Montefrío.
Experience the best of the city including the Callejón de las
with the 2 Days in Seville itinerary Flores, famous for its beautiful Day 9: Granada
on p13. flowers. Visit the Plaza de Press on to Granada (pp492–8),
Tendillas for dinner options. just a short drive from
Day 5: Carmona and Écija Montefrío. The spirit of old
Hire a car for the rest of your Day 8: Montilla to Montefrío Al Andalus is strongest here,
journey. Drive east of Seville, Drive through beautiful thanks to the presence of the
stopping first at Carmona Andalucían countryside to hauntingly beautiful Alhambra
(p482), an aristocratic town Granada, taking in several Palace, which crowns the city.
tucked behind Moorish city attractive villages. First of these An old Moorish neighbourhood
walls. Continue east to Écija is Montilla (p488), a celebrated spills down the hill opposite the
(p483), famous for extreme wine town, followed by Aguilar Alhambra, its narrow lanes lined
heat and a distinctive skyline de la Frontera, wrapped around with craftshops, bathhouses
punctured by the silhouettes an octagonal square. Continue and cafés. Stop for lunch here,
of 11 Baroque church spires. through hills and orchards to then head up to explore the
Spend a night here. Priego de Córdoba (p488), vast Alhambra palace and
packed with breathtaking fortress complex (pp496–7)
Day 6: Córdoba Baroque architecture, and then and the Generalife gardens
Córdoba (pp484–7) is less than to Montefrío (pp488–9), a (p498), where the Nasrid rulers
an hour’s drive east of Écija. At tumble of chalk­white buildings made their attempt to recreate
its heart is the vast 8th­century crowned by the remnants of a paradise on earth. Top off the
day with a tapas bar crawl –
a must in Granada.
Day 10: Granada
Visit the splendid Gothic
cathedral (p492), constructed by
order of the Catholic Monarchs
(Ferdinand and Isabella) after
the fall of Granada in 1492. They
also ordered the construction of
the nearby Capilla Real (p492),
which contains their elaborate
tombs and those of their
daughter and her husband. Take
a look at the cultural centre in
the 16th­century Corral del
Carbón (p492), which displays
local crafts. In the evening, take
in a flamenco show in one of
Portico and pool of the Partal, part of the Alhambra palace complex the caves in Sacromonte (p495).




012-017_EW_Spain.indd 17 26/09/17 11:00 am

18  INTRODUCING SP AIN Portsmouth,
Plymouth
Putting Spain on the Map

Spain, in southwestern Europe, covers the greater part of the
Iberian Peninsula. The third-largest country in Europe, it includes
two island groups – the Canaries in the Atlantic and the Balearics Ba y of
in the Mediterranean – and two small territories in North Africa. Bisca y
Its southernmost point faces
Morocco across a Ortigueira
strait, making Ferrol Avilés Gijón Santander San Biarritz
Spain a bridge A Coruña Oviedo Llanes Sebastián Béziers
between ASTURIAS CANTABRIA Bilbao Pau Tarbes
continents. Santiago de Lugo PAÍS FRANCE
Compostela
GALICIA VASCO
Pamplona Perpignan
Miranda de Ebro Vitoria
Ponferrada (Gasteiz)
Pontevedra León NAVARRA Jaca ANDORRA
Logroño
Ourense Burgos
Vigo La Seu Figueres
LA RIOJA de Urgell
Huesca
Tudela Girona
Palencia
Benavente CA TALUÑA Vic Genoa, Livorno,
CASTILLA Y LEÓN Soria ARAGÓN Civitavecchia
Valladolid Aranda de Zaragoza Manresa
Duero
Braga Peñafiel Lleida
Zamora Barcelona
Vila Real Calatayud
Porto Sitges
Atlantic Salamanca Tarragona
Ocean Segovia Alcañiz Mediter r anean
Aveiro Guadalajara Tortosa Sea
Ciudad Rodrigo Ávila
MADRID
Benicarló
Madrid
Coimbra Teruel Ciutadella Menorca
Plasencia Talavera Aranjuez Cuenca Benicàssim
Coria de la Reina Alcudia Mahón
Leiria Castelo Castellón de la Plana
Branco Toledo
Sagunto Palma
CASTILLA-LA MANCHA
Cáceres Trujillo Valencia Mallorca
POR TUGAL Requena
PAÍS
ISLAS
EXTREMADURA Tormelloso VALENCIANO BALEARES
Santarem Badajoz Ciudad Real Albacete Gandia Ibiza
Ibiza
Mérida
Lisbon Xábia
Evora Puertollano
Setúbal Valdepeñas
Zafra Hellín
Elda Benidorm
Alicante
Linares
Beja
MURCIA Murcia
Úbeda
Córdoba
Jaén Huéscar
Lorca
ANDALUCÍA Cartagena
Sevilla
Águillas
Lagos Huelva Estepa
Key Faro Granada Mojácar
Motorway Jerez de la
Frontera Almería
Major road Málaga Motril
Cádiz
International border
Marbella
Regional border
Ferry route Algeciras
Tangier
Ceuta Melilla, Nador
Canary Islands Melilla Ghazaouet
For keys to symbols see back flap
018-019_EW_Spain.indd 18 26/09/17 11:52 am

Portsmouth, PUT TING SP AIN ON THE M AP  19
Plymouth Cádiz,
The Canary Islands Huelva Lanzarote
Arrecife
Santa Cruz
de la Palma Tenerife Puerto del
Rosario
Fuerteventura
La Palma
Ba y of San Sebastián Santa Cruz Las Palmas de
de Tenerife
Bisca y Gran Canaria
La Gomera Los
Valverde Cristianos Gran
Ortigueira Canaria
Avilés El Hierro
Ferrol Gijón Biarritz
San
A Coruña Oviedo Santander Sebastián Béziers
Llanes Tarbes
ASTURIAS CANTABRIA Bilbao Pau
Santiago de Lugo
Compostela PAÍS FRANCE
GALICIA VASCO
Pamplona Perpignan
Miranda de Ebro Vitoria
Ponferrada (Gasteiz) 0 kilometres 100
Pontevedra León NAVARRA Jaca ANDORRA
Logroño 0 miles 50
Ourense Burgos
Vigo La Seu Figueres
LA RIOJA de Urgell
Huesca
Tudela Girona
Palencia
Benavente CA TALUÑA Vic Genoa, Livorno,
CASTILLA Y LEÓN Soria ARAGÓN Civitavecchia
Valladolid Aranda de Zaragoza Manresa
Duero
Braga Peñafiel Lleida
Zamora Barcelona
Vila Real Calatayud
Porto Sitges
Atlantic Salamanca Tarragona
Ocean Segovia Alcañiz Mediter r anean
Aveiro Guadalajara Tortosa Sea
Ciudad Rodrigo Ávila
MADRID
Benicarló
Madrid
Coimbra Teruel Ciutadella Menorca
Plasencia Talavera Aranjuez Cuenca Benicàssim
Coria de la Reina Alcudia Mahón
Leiria Castelo Castellón de la Plana
Branco Toledo
Sagunto Palma
CASTILLA-LA MANCHA
Cáceres Trujillo Valencia Mallorca
POR TUGAL Requena
PAÍS
ISLAS
EXTREMADURA Tormelloso VALENCIANO BALEARES
Santarem Badajoz Ciudad Real Albacete Gandia Ibiza
Ibiza
Mérida
Lisbon Xábia
Evora Puertollano
Setúbal Valdepeñas Europe and NORWAY
Zafra Hellín SWEDEN ESTONIA
Elda Benidorm North Africa NOR TH
Alicante SEA DENMARK LATVIA
Linares UNITED LITHUANIA
Beja KINGDOM
MURCIA Murcia IRELAND NETHERLANDS POLAND BELARUS
REP. OF
Úbeda
Córdoba GERMANY
Jaén Huéscar BELGIUM CZECH
Lorca REP. UKRAINE
ANDALUCÍA Cartagena A TLANTIC SLOVAKIA
Sevilla OCEAN FRANCE SWITZ. AUSTRIA HUNGARY
Águillas ROMANIA
Lagos Huelva Estepa ITALY BOSNIA SERBIA
HERZ.
Faro Granada Mojácar MONTEN. BULGARIA
MAC.
PORTUGAL
Jerez de la Madrid
Frontera Almería SP AIN GREECE
Málaga Motril
Cádiz
Marbella TUNISIA
MOROCCO
Algeciras Canary ALGERIA
Islands
LIBYA
Tangier
Ceuta Melilla, Nador
Canary Islands Melilla Ghazaouet
018-019_EW_Spain.indd 19 26/09/17 11:52 am

20  INTRODUCING SP AIN

Regional Spain

Spain has a population of 47 million and receives more than 40 million
visitors a year. It covers an area of 504,780 sq km (194,900 sq miles).
Madrid is the largest city, followed by Barcelona and Valencia. The
country is dominated by a central plateau drained by the Duero, Tagus
(Tajo) and Guadiana rivers. This book divides Spain into 15 areas, but
officially it has 17 independent regions called comunidades autónomas.

Ferrol AC862 LU862
A Coruña Gijón
AG55 A8 A8
A6 A63 Llanes
Santiago de N640 Oviedo N634 Santander Bilbo San Sebastián
Compostela AP9 N625 A8 A8 (Bilbao) (Donostia)
N547
Lugo AP66 N621 A67 N623 N629 A8
AP9 N541 AP53 N540 Miño A6 N630 AP68 AI AI N121a
N135
Pontevedra N120 AP66 León N625 Vitoria A15 Iruña
Vigo A52 Ourense Ponferrada A231 N623 N232 (Gasteiz) N111 (Pamplona) N330
A66 N601 A231 AP1 N120 A12 Ebro AP15 N240 Jaca N260 N230
A6
A52
A67 Burgos Logroño
A52 N260 N260
Palencia N234 N11 A127 A125 d'Urgell N152 N260 Figueres
N610 N330 La Seu
N113 NA125 A23 N123 C14
N631
A62
N601
A1
N122
Getting Around Zamora A6 Valladolid Duero Soria AP68 Tudela Huesca N230 C14 C26 C25 Vic Girona
Spain’s regional capitals Duero A11 N122 Zaragoza A22 A2 Manresa C17 AP7 NII
and islands are linked N122 N111 N234 A2 AP2 Lleida C16
by regular flights and A66 A62 A6 A601 A23 N232 Ebro AP2 AP7 Barcelona
C32
there is a shuttle service A62 Salamanca Segovia N110 Sigüenza N234 N211 Reus Sitges
between Madrid and A50 Alcañiz N420 Tarragona
Barcelona. The TALGO Ciudad A1 N320 A2 N204 N211 N211
and AVE high-speed CL526 Rodrigo A6 6 N110 Ávila AP6 Guadalajara N420 Tortosa AP7
trains provide fast rail N403 El Escorial MADRID A23
services and are backed N502 A5 A3 Teruel CV15 Benicarló
N232
up by regional and Coria Plasencia A4 Tajo N320 N330
local rail networks. EXA1 A5 Talavera Aranjuez A40 N420 C V20 CV10 Ciutadella Menorca
Some motorways Tajo de la Reina Toledo A3 Cuenca A23 Castellón Mallorca C721 Maó
have expensive tolls, N521 Cáceres Trujillo CM401 A4 AP36 Júcar de la Plana
but are fast. The Balearic A58 N502 N420 A43 N330 CV35 Turia Sagunto Palma M A13
and Canary islands are EX100 A66 Guadiana N401 AP36 A3 A3 MA1 Manacor
served by regular ferries. A5 N430 N420 Alcázar de A31 Valencia MA19
San Juan
A5 Ciudad N330
N430 Real A7
Badajoz Mérida N502 A43 Albacete Ibiza Cabrera
EX103 EX104 Almadén N430 A31 N430 A P7 Gandia C733
N432
N420 Puertollano A30 Alcoi (Ibiza)
Zafra CM412 Valdepeñas N322 Almansa Eivissa
N435
N432 A420 A4 Hellín A31 A7
Azuaga N502 N344 Alacant AP7 Benidorm Formentera
A447 N432 A33 (Alicante)
N433 Andújar N322
A7 Elx
A66
A4
Úbeda
N433
A30
Segura
A317
N435 Guadalquivir Córdoba Murcia
A431 Jaén A 330 A7
A49 A49 A4 N43 2 A44 A301 RM16
Huelva Sevilla A45 A92N Lorca
A92 A92N AP7 Cartagena
A92
A92
A384 Granada N340
Jerez de la AP4 Antequera
Frontera A382 A45 A 7
A7 Motril
A7
A397
A381 Málaga Almería
Cádiz A7
N340 A7
Key
Algeciras Gibraltar
Motorway
Motorway under construction
Major road
Minor road
020-021_EW_Spain.indd 20 26/09/17 11:52 am

PUT TING SP AIN ON THE M AP  21



Key to colour coding
Northern Spain
Galicia
Asturias and Cantabria
The Basque Country, Navarra and
La Rioja
Eastern Spain
Barcelona
Ferrol AC862 LU862 Catalonia
A Coruña Gijón
AG55 A8 A8 Aragón
A6 A63 Llanes
Santiago de N640 Oviedo N634 Santander Bilbo San Sebastián Valencia and Murcia
Compostela AP9 N625 A8 A8 (Bilbao) (Donostia) Central Spain
Lugo AP66 N621 A67 N623 N629 A8 0 kilometres 100 Madrid
N547
AP9 N541 AP53 N540 Miño A6 N630 AP68 AI AI N121a 0 miles 100 Castilla y León
N135
Pontevedra N120 AP66 León N625 Vitoria A15 Iruña Castilla-La Mancha
Vigo A52 Ourense Ponferrada A231 N623 N232 (Gasteiz) N111 (Pamplona) N330 Extremadura
A66 N601 A231 AP1 N120 A12 Ebro AP15 N240 Jaca N260 N230 Southern Spain
A6
A52
A67 Burgos Logroño
A52 N260 N260
Palencia N234 N11 A127 A125 d'Urgell N152 N260 Figueres
N610 N330 La Seu Seville
N113 NA125 N123 C14 Andalucía
N631
A62 A1 AP68 Tudela A23 Huesca C26 C25 Vic Girona
N601
N122
A6
Zamora Valladolid Duero Soria A22 N230 C14 NII Spain’s Islands
Duero A11 N122 N122 N234 Zaragoza Lleida A2 Manresa C16 C17 AP7 The Balearic Islands
A66 A62 A6 A601 N111 A2 A23 AP2 AP2 The Canary Islands
Salamanca N110 Sigüenza N234 N232 Ebro Reus AP7 C32 Barcelona
A62 Segovia N211 Sitges
A50 N420
Alcañiz Tarragona
Ciudad A1 N320 A2 N204 N211 N211
CL526 Rodrigo A6 6 N110 Ávila AP6 Guadalajara N420 Tortosa AP7
El Escorial
N502 N403 MADRID A23 N232
A5 A3 Teruel CV15 Benicarló
Plasencia Tajo N320 The Balearic Islands
Coria A4 N330 Menorca
EXA1 A5 Aranjuez A40 N420 C V20 Ciutadella
Talavera Cuenca A23 CV10
Tajo de la Reina Toledo A3 Castellón C721
Cáceres A4 AP36 de la Plana Mallorca Maó
N521
Trujillo CM401 N420 Júcar N330 CV35 M A13
A58 N502 N401 A43 Turia Sagunto Palma
EX100 Guadiana AP36 A3 A3 MA1 Manacor
A66
A5 N430 Alcázar de A31 Valencia MA19
A5 Ciudad N420 San Juan N330
N430 Real A7
Badajoz Mérida N502 A43 Albacete Ibiza Cabrera
EX103 EX104 Almadén N430 A31 N430 A P7 Gandia C733
N432
N420 Puertollano A30 Alcoi (Ibiza)
Zafra CM412 Valdepeñas N322 Almansa Eivissa
N435
N432 A420 A4 Hellín A31 A7
Azuaga N502 N344 Alacant AP7 Benidorm Formentera
A447 N432 A33 (Alicante)
N433 Andújar N322
A7 Elx The Canary Islands
A66
N433
A4
Úbeda
A30
A317
Segura
N435 Guadalquivir Córdoba Murcia Lanzarote
A431 Jaén A 330 A7 Arrecife
A49 A49 A4 N43 2 A44 A301 RM16 La Palma
Huelva Sevilla A45 A92N Lorca 83 0
A92 A92N AP7 Cartagena Santa Cruz Tenerife Fuerteventura
A92 832 de la Palma Puerto de 610 Puerto del
la Cruz
A92
A384 Granada N340 Santa Cruz Rosario
Jerez de la AP4 Antequera La Gomera C820 de Tenerife
Frontera A382 A45 A 7 TF1 Las Palmas
A7 Motril GC200 de Gran Canaria
A7
A397
A381 Málaga Almería San Sebastián G C1
Cádiz A7 de la Gomera
El Hierro
A7 Valverde Canaria
N340 Gran Maspalomas
Algeciras Gibraltar
020-021_EW_Spain.indd 21 26/09/17 11:52 am

022-027_EW_Spain.indd 22 26/09/17 12:05 pm

INTRODUCING SP AIN  23

A PORTRAIT OF SPAIN


The familiar images of Spain – flamenco dancing, bullfighting, tapas bars and
solemn Easter processions – do no more than hint at the diversity of this vast
country. Spain boasts four official languages, two major cities of equal
importance and a greater range of landscapes – from sandy beaches to mountain
peaks – than any other European country. These remark able elements contribute
to making Spain an endlessly fascinating country to visit.

Separated from the rest of Europe by In early times, Spain was a coveted prize
the Pyrenees, Spain reaches south to for foreign conquerors, including the
the coast of North Africa. It has both Phoenicians and the Romans. During the
Atlantic and Mediterranean coastlines, Middle Ages, much of it was ruled by the
and includes two archipelagos – the Moors, who arrived from North Africa in
Balearics and the Canary Islands. the 8th century. Reconquered by Christian
The climate and landscape vary from forces, the country was unified at the
snowcapped peaks in the Pyrenees, end of the 15th century. A succession of
through the green meadows of Galicia rulers tried to impose a common culture,
and the orange groves of Valencia, to but Spain remains as culturally diverse as
the desert of Almería. Madrid is Europe’s ever. Several regions have maintained a
highest capital, and Spain is its most strong sense of their own independent
mountainous country after Switzerland identities. Many Basques and Catalans,
and Austria. The innumerable sierras in particular, do not consider themselves
have always hindered communications. to be Spanish. Madrid may be the
Until railways were built, it was easier nominal capital, but it is closely rivalled
to move goods from Barcelona to in commerce, the arts and sport by
South America than to Madrid. Barcelona, the capital city of Catalonia.





























Landscape with a solitary cork tree near Albacete in Castilla-La Mancha
Flamenco dancing in Seville



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Peñafiel Castle in the Duero Valley (Castilla y León), built between the 10th and 13th centuries

The Spanish Way of Life midnight and dawn, when city streets
The inhabitants of this var ied country are often still lively.
have few things in common, except for Spaniards are highly
a natural sociability and a zest for living. gregarious. In many places
Spaniards commonly put as much people still go out in the
energy into enjoying life as they evening for the paseo, when
do into their work. The stereo­ the streets are crowd ed
typical “mañana” (leave every­ with strollers. Eating is
thing until tomorrow) is a invariably communal, and
myth, but time is flexible in big groups often meet up
Spain and many peo ple for tapas or dinner. Not
bend their work to fit the surprisingly, Spain has
demands of their social life, “Vinegar Face” in Pamplona’s more bars and restaurants
rather than let them selves be Los Sanfermines fiesta per head than any other
ruled by the clock. The day is country in Europe.
long in Spain, and Spanish has word, Traditionally, the state in Spain has been
madrugada, for the time between very inefficient at providing public services.
The Spanish have therefore always relied on
their families and personal connec tions,
rather than institutions, to find work or seek
assistance in a cri sis.
Underpinning Spanish society is the
concept of the extended family. Three
generations may live together under one
roof, or at least see each other often.
Even lifelong city­dwellers refer fondly to
their pueblo – the town or village where
their family comes from and where they
return to whenever they can. Children are
adored in Spain and, conse quently, great
importance is attached to education.
The family in Spain, however, is under
strain as couples increasingly opt for a
higher income and better lifestyle rather
Tables outside a café in Madrid’s Plaza Mayor than a large family. One of the most




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striking transformations in
modern Spain has been in the
birth rate, from one of the highest
in Europe, at 2.72 children for
every woman in 1975, to 1.49
children for every woman in 2016.
Catholicism is still a pervasive
influence over Spanish society,
although church attendance
among those under
the age of 35 has
been declining The windmills and castle above Consuegra, La Mancha
and now stands at
below 10 per cent. The Hollywood for audiences, and the actress
images of saints watch Penélope Cruz won an Oscar in 2009.
over some shops, bars The overall level of reading has risen,
and lorry drivers’ cabs. and contemporary literature has steadily
Church feast days gained a wider readership, with a number
are marked by of internationally recognised Spanish
Virgin of Guadalupe count less traditional names lining bookshop shelves. The per-
in Extremadura fiestas, which are forming arts have been restricted by a
enthu siastically lack of facilities, but major investments
maintained in modern Spain. have provided new venues, regional arts
centres and new symphony orchestras.
Sport and the Arts The country has produced many
Spanish cultural life has been remarkable opera singers, including
experiencing a renaissance. Spanish-made Montserrat Caballé, Plácido Domingo
films – notably those of cult directors and José Carreras. Spain has also excelled
Pedro Almodóvar and Alejandro Amenábar in design, particularly evident in the
– have been able to compete with interior furnishings shops of Barcelona.


























Crowds in Barcelona browsing book stalls on Sant Jordi’s Day, in April, when it is customary to exchange literary gifts




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Spanish team's win in the 2010 FIFA World
Cup, the country's first world title. Such
role models have encouraged participation
in sport and more facilities have been
provided to meet this demand. Most
popular are basketball and, above all, soccer.
Bullfighting remains popular with
some, although it does court controversy,
particularly with younger generations.
For aficionados, a corrida provides a link
to Spain’s roots, and the noise, colour and
crowd are as much of an attraction as
the bullfight itself. In Catalonia, however,
bullfighting was banned in 2012.

Spain Today
Since the mid-20th century, Spain has
undergone more social change than
Formula One driver Fernando Alonso anywhere in western Europe. Until the
1950s, Spain was predominantly a poor,
Spaniards are the most avid TV-watchers rural country, in which only 37 per cent of
in Europe after the British. There are two the population lived in towns of over
state-owned TV channels in Spain, as 10,000 people. By the 1990s, that figure
well as a growing number of private was 65 per cent. As people flooded into
channels and regional TV stations towns and cities, many rural areas became
thanks to digital platforms. Sports are depopulated. The 1960s saw the beginning
one of the mainstays of TV programming. of spectacular economic growth, partly
Spanish sportsmen and women have due to a burgeoning tourist industry.
been very successful – for example, tennis After the death of dictator General Franco
player Rafael Nadal and Formula 1 driver in 1975, Spain became a constitutional
Fernando Alonso, not forgetting the monarchy under King Juan Carlos I, who

























A farmer with his crop of maize hanging to dry on the outside of his house in the hills of Alicante




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Sandy beach near the pretty town of Tossa de Mar, on Catalonia’s Costa Brava
reigned until 2014 when he abdicated in Spain enjoyed an economic boom in
favour of his son, Felipe VI. The post-Franco the 1980s, as service indus tries and
era, up until the mid-1990s, was dominated manufacturing expanded. How ever, at
by Prime Minister Felipe González of the the peak of the 2009 economic crisis, the
Spanish Socialist Workers’ Party (PSOE). unemployment rate was a staggering
As well as presiding over major 27 per cent. Although this statistic
improvements in roads, educa tion dropped to 20 per cent in 2017, it
and health services, the Socialists remains among the highest of all
increased Spain’s inter national EU countries. In response to
standing. The country joined the Partido Popular govern-
the European Community in ment’s austerity policies
1986, trig gering a spectacular and allegations of corruption,
increase in national prosperity. King Felipe VI no party won an outright
Spain’s for tunes seemed to peak majority in the general elections
in the extraordinary year of 1992, when of 2015. Elections were held again in 2016,
Barcelona staged the Olympic Games and and this time the Partido Popular managed
Seville hosted a world fair, Expo ’92. The to win enough seats to form a minority
PSOE could not continue forever, how ever, government under Mariano Rajoy.
and in 1996 revelations of a series of
scandals lost the PSOE the election.
With the establishment of democracy,
the 17 autonomous regions of Spain have
acquired considerable powers. Several have
their own languages, which are given
equal importance to Spanish (strictly called
Castilian). A number of Basques favour
independence, and the Basque terrorist
group ETA was a constant thorn in the side
of Spanish democracy until 2011, when
they declared a cessation of hostilities. The
group officially disarmed in 2017, the same
year that Catalonia voted for independence
in a referendum deemed illegal by the
Constitutional Court of Spain and the
European Commission. This stand-off led to
protests in Barcelona and Madrid, followed
by the exile of Catalan cabinet ministers. Demonstration for Catalan independence




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Architecture in Spain

Spain has always imported its styles of architecture: Moorish
from North Africa, Romanesque and Gothic from France and
Renaissance from Italy. Each style, however, was interpreted in
a distinctively Spanish way, with sudden and strong contrasts
between light and shady areas; façades alternating between
austerity and extravagant decoration; and thick walls
pierced by few windows to lessen the impact of heat and
sunlight. Styles vary from region to region, reflecting the
division of Spain before unification. The key design of a The 15th-century Casa de Conchas in
central patio surrounded by arcades has been a strong Salamanca (see p365)
feature of civil buildings since Moorish times.
Romanesque and Earlier Moorish (8th–15th Centuries)
(8th–13th Centuries) The Moors (see pp56–7) reserved the most lavish
Romanesque churches were mainly decoration for the interior of buildings, where
built in Catalonia and along the pilgrim ornate designs based on geometry, calligraphy
route to Santiago (see p87). Their and plant motifs were created in azulejos (tiles) or
distinctive features include round arches, stucco. They made extensive use of the horsehoe
massive walls and few windows. Earlier arch, a feature inherited
churches were built in Pre-Romanesque from the Visigoths (see
(see p110) or Mozarabic (see p355) style. pp54–5). The greatest
surviving works of
Round arch Multiple Moorish architecture
apses
(see pp426–7) are in
Southern Spain.
The Salón de
Embajadores in the
Alhambra (see p496)
has exquisite Moorish
The Romanesque Sant Climent, Taüll (p215) decoration.
Gothic (12th–16th Centuries) Rose Tracery
Gothic was imported from France in the window
late 12th century. The round arch was Flying
replaced by the pointed arch which, Pointed buttress
arch
because of its greater strength, allowed
for higher vaults and taller windows.
External buttresses were added to
prevent the walls of the nave from
Gothic arched leaning outwards. Carved decoration
window
was at its most opulent in the
Flam boyant Gothic style of the 15th century. After
the fall of Granada, Isabelline, a late Gothic style,
developed. Meanwhile,
Moorish craftsmen working
in reconquered areas
created the highly
decorative hybrid
Christian-Islamic style
Mudéjar (see p59).
The nave of León Cathedral
(see pp358–9), built in the
13th century, is supported Sculptural decoration above the doorways
by rib vaulting and is illu- of León Cathedral’s south front depicted
minated by the finest display biblical stories for the benefit of the largely
of stained glass in Spain. illiterate populace.




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Renaissance (16th Century)
Around 1500 a new style was introduced to Spain by
Italian craftsmen and Spanish artists who had studied in
Italy. The Renaissance was a revival of the style of ancient
Rome. It is distinguished by its sense of symmetry and
the use of the round arch, and Doric, Ionic and Corinthian
columns. Early Spanish Renaissance architecture is
known as Plateresque because its fine detail resembles
ornate silverwork (platero means “silversmith”). The Palacio de las Cadenas in Úbeda (see p501)
has a severely Classical façade.
Medallions Classical Sculpted Round arch
columns parapet







The Hostal de San Marcos in León (see p357), one of Spain’s finest Plateresque buildings
Baroque (17th–18th Centuries)
Baroque was driven by a desire for drama and movement. The ornamentation on the Baroque
façade of Valladolid University
Decoration became extravagant, with exuberant (see p370) is concentrated
sculpture and twisting columns. Although the excessive above the doorway.
Baroque style of Churrigueresque is named after the
Churriguera family of architects, it was their successors
who were its main exponents. Statues on parapet
Finials








The façade of the Museo de Historia in
Madrid (pp308–9)
Modern (Late 19th Century onwards)
Modernisme (see pp144–5), a Catalan interpretation of Art Nouveau, is
seen at its best in Barcelona. Its architects experimented with a highly
original language of ornament. In recent decades, Spain has seen an
explosion of bold, functionalist architecture in which the form of a
building reflects its use and decoration is used sparingly.
Curving parapet Spiral Decorative
chimney ironwork

Torre de Picasso in Madrid (p310)


Casa Milà, in Barcelona (see
p169), was built in 1910 by
Modernisme’s most famous and
best-loved architect, Antoni
Gaudí, who drew much of his
inspiration from nature.




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Vernacular Architecture

As well as its cathedrals and palaces, Spain has a great
variety of charming vernacular buildings. These have
been constructed by local craftsmen to meet the practical
needs of rural communities and to take account of local
climate conditions, with little reference to formal archi­
tectural styles. Due to the high expense involved in
transporting raw materials, builders used whatever stone
or timber lay closest to hand. The three houses illustrated
below incorporate the most common characteristics of A cave church in Artenara (see p549), on
village architecture seen in different parts of Spain. Gran Canaria

Stone House Supporting Large doors accommo- The walls are built of
The climate is wet in the north and pillar date carts and animals. irregularly shaped stones.
houses like this one in Carmona
(see p115), in Cantabria, are built with
overhanging eaves to shed the rain.
Wooden balconies catch the sun.

Family and farm often
share rural houses. The
ground floor is used to
stable animals, or store
Detail of stonework tools and firewood.
Timber-Framed House Portico Gently sloping roof
Spain, in general, has few large trees and
wood is in short supply. Castilla y León is one The veranda
of the few regions where timber-framed runs the length
houses, such as this one in Covarrubias of the building.
(see p374), can be found. These houses are Balcony
quick and cheap to build. The timber frame is
filled in with a coarse plaster mixed from lime
and sand, or adobe (bricks dried in the sun). In town squares,
The ends of the beams upright struts of timber
supporting the floor- supporting horizontal
boards are visible. beams were used to
form porticoes. A shady
Stone plinths below space was created for
upright timbers provide people to meet, talk
Half-timbered wall protection from damp. and trade.
Whitewashed House Irregularly shaped houses Few, small
Houses in the south of Spain – often are joined together. windows
built of baked clay – are regularly
whitewashed to deflect the sun’s Shallow-pitched roof
intense rays. Andalucía’s famous
white towns (see pp474–5) exemplify
this attractive form of architecture.



Windows are small
and few in number,
and deeply recessed,
in order to keep the
Clay-tiled roof interior cool. Whitewashed walls





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The Plaza Mayor
Town hall (ayuntamiento)
Almost every town in Spain centres on a
main square, the plaza mayor, like this one in
Pedraza de la Sierra (see p369), near Segovia. Medieval porticoes
More than a market square, it acts as a focus beneath the buildings
for local life. It is usually overlooked by provided shade for
shops and markets.
the church, the town hall, shops
and bars and the mansions
of aristocratic families.







Church







A noble family’s mansion The square provides ample
is distinguished by a coat of space for fiestas, concerts,
arms carved on the façade. folk dances, bullrunning and
other public events.
Rural Architecture
A variety of distinctive build ings
dots the countryside.
Where the rock is soft and
the climate hot, subterranean
dwellings have been excavat ed.
Insulated from extremes of
temperature, they provide
a comfortable place to live.
Hórreos, granaries raised
on stone stilts to prevent rats
climbing up into the grain, are a
common sight in Galicia (where Cave houses in Guadix near Granada Teito in Valle de Teverga in Asturias
they are stone-built) and Asturias (see p499) (see p109)
(where they are made of wood).
In fields you will often see shelters
for live stock or for storing crops,
such as the teitos of Asturias.
Windmills provided power
in parts of Spain where there
was little running water but
plentiful wind, like La Mancha
and the Balearic Islands.
Almost everywhere in the
Spanish countryside you will
come across ermitas, isolated
chapels or shrines dedicated
to a local saint. An ermita may
be opened only on the patron Hórreo, a granary, on the Rías Baixas Windmill above Consuegra (see p398)
saint’s feast day. (see p99) in Galicia in La Mancha





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Farming in Spain

Spain’s varied geography and climate have created
a mosaic of farming patterns ranging from lush
dairylands to stony hillsides where goats graze.
Land can be broadly divided into secano, or dry
cultivation (used for olives, wheat and vines),
and much smaller areas of regadío, irrigated land
(planted with citrus trees, rice and vegetables).
Farming in many parts is a family affair relying The high rainfall and mild summers of
on traditional, labour-intensive methods, but it Northern Spain make it suitable for dairy
is becoming increasingly mechanized. farming. Farms are often small, especially
in Galicia, one of the country’s most under-
developed regions. Crops such as maize
and wheat are grown in small quantities.









Plains of cereals make up much of the
farmland of the central meseta of Spain.
Wheat is grown in better-watered, more
fertile western areas; barley is grown in MADRID
the drier south.

Cork oaks thrive in Extremadura
and western Andalucía.




SEVILLA





Sheep grazed on the rough pastures of Central Spain
are milked to make cheese, especially manchego,
which is produced in La Mancha (see p343).

Jul–Aug Wheat Sep Rice Oct Maize harvested
harvested in harvest in in Northern Spain Dec–Mar Olives
Central Spain Eastern Spain. for making
Grape harvest Oct–Nov Table oil picked
at its height
olives picked
Spring Summer Autumn Winter
Feb Almond trees
Mar–Apr Orange Nov–Dec Oranges
trees in blossom on picked in blossom
Mediterranean coast
Dec Pigs are
Jun–Aug Haymaking Sep Start of wild slaughtered when
in Northern Spain mushroom season cold weather arrives




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Banana plantation in La Palma, Canary Islands
Crops from Trees
Oranges, lemons and clementines are The almond, orange and olive create the three most
grown on the irrigated coastal plains characteristic landscapes of rural Spain, but several other
beside the Mediterranean. The region of trees provide important crops. Wine corks are made from
Valencia is the prime producer of oranges. the bark of the cork oak. Tropical species, such as avocado
and cherimoya, a deli cious creamy fruit little known
outside Spain, have been introduced to the so-called
Costa Tropical of Andalucía (see p489); and bananas
are a major crop of the Canary Islands. Elsewhere,
peaches and loquats are also grown commercially.
Figs and carobs – whose fruit is used for fodder and
BARCELONA as a substitute for chocolate – grow semi-wild.
Wine is produced in Almonds grow on dry hill-
many parts of Spain sides in many parts of Spain.
(see pp580–81). The The spring blossom can
country’s best sparkling be spectacular. The nut,
wine grapes are grown enclosed by a fleshy green
in Catalonia. skin, is used in
a variety of
Rice is grown sweetmeats,
in the Ebro delta, in including the
the Marismas del Christmas treat turrón
Guadalquivir, around
L’Albufera near (see p191).
Valencia and also at
Calasparra in Murcia. Olive trees grow slowly and
often live to a great age. The
fruit is harvested in winter
0 kilometres 200 and either
pickled
0 miles 100
in brine,
for eating
as a snack, or
to extract the oil,
which is widely used
in Spanish cuisine.
Sweet oranges are grown in
dense, well-irrigated groves
near the frost-free coasts.
The sweet smell of orange
blossom in springtime is
unmistakable. Trees of
the bitter orange
are often planted
for shade and
Olive trees are planted in long, straight decoration in
lines across large swathes of Andalucía, parks and gardens.
especially in the province of Jaén. Spain is
the world’s leading producer of olive oil.





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Spain’s National Parks

Few other countries in western Europe have such
unspoiled scenery as Spain, or can boast tracts of
wilderness where brown bears live and wolves hunt.
More than 200 nature re serves protect a broad range
of ecosystems. The most important areas are the 13
national parks, the first of which was established in 1918.
Natural parks (parques naturales), regulated by regional
governments, are also vital to the task of conservation. Clear mountain river, Ordesa


Mountains
Much of Spain’s finest scenery is found
in the mountains. Rivers have carved
gorges between the peaks of the Picos
de Europa. Ordesa and Aigüestortes
share some of the most dramatic
landscapes of the Pyrenees,
while the Sierra Nevada
has an impressive range Chamois are well
of indigenous wildlife. adapted to climb­
ing across slopes
Eagle owls are covered in scree.
Europe’s largest owl, They live in small
easily identified by groups, always
their large ear tufts. At alert to predators,
night they hunt small and feed on grass
Rough terrain in the Picos de Europa mammals and birds. and flowers.
Wetlands
Wetlands include coastal strips and fresh­
water marshes. Seasonal floods rejuvenate Lynx, endangered by
the water, providing nutrients for animal hunting and habitat loss,
and plant growth. These areas are rich can occasionally be
feeding grounds for birds. Spain’s best­ spotted in Doñana
known wetland is Doñana. Catalonia’s (see pp470–71).
Delta de l’Ebre (see p229) and Tablas de
Daimiel, in La Mancha, are much smaller.

Black-winged
stilts, with
their long,
straight
legs, are
adept at stalking
tiny freshwater
crustaceans. Laguna del Acebuche, Parque Nacional de Doñana
Islands
Cabrera, off
Mallorca, is home
to rare plants,
reptiles and seabirds,
such as Eleonara’s Lizards are often
falcon. The surrounding found in rocky
waters are important terrain and on
Cabrera archipelago, Balearic Islands for their marine life. cliff faces.





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Mountains Volcanic Landscapes
1 Picos de Europa pp112–13 q Caldera de Taburiente p536
2 Ordesa y Monte Perdido pp236–7 w Teide pp542–3
3 Aigüestortes y Estany de Sant e Timanfaya pp552–3
Maurici p215
4 Sierra Nevada p491 VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
Wetlands All but one of the national parks
are managed by the Ministerio
5 Tablas de Daimiel p403 de Medio Ambiente. Tel 915 46
National Parks 6 Doñana pp470–71 81 11. ∑ magrama.gob.es/es/
red-parques-nacionales
Mountains Parque Nacional d’Aigüestortes
Wetlands Islands y Estany de Sant Maurici is
Islands 7 Archipiélago de Cabrera p521 admin istered jointly with
Woods and Forests 8 Illa de Ons p99 Catalonia’s Department of
Environment. Tel 973 69 61 89.
Volcanic Landscapes Most of Spain’s national parks
Woods and Forests
have visitors’ centres, often
9 Cabañeros p391 called Centros de Interpretació.
0 Garajonay p537
Woods and Forests
Deciduous broad-leaved forests grow in the northwest of
Spain, and stands of Aleppo and Scots pine cover many
mountainous areas. On the central plateau there
are stretches of open woodland of evergreen
holm oak and cork oak in the Parque
Nacional de Cabañeros. Dense, lush
laurisilva woodland grows in the Parque
Nacional de Garajonay, on La Gomera,
one of the smaller Canary Islands.
Black vultures
are the largest
birds of prey Hedgehogs, common
in Europe, with in woodlands, root
an enormous among fallen leaves
wingspan of and grass to find
over 2.5 m (8 ft). worms and slugs. Parque Nacional de Garajonay

Volcanic Landscapes
Three very different parks protect parts of the Rabbits are highly
Canary Islands’ amazing volcanic scenery. Caldera de opportunistic, quickly
Taburiente on La Palma is a volcanic crater surrounded colonizing areas in which
by woods. Mount Teide in Tenerife has unique alpine they can burrow.
flora, and Lanzarote’s Timanfaya In the absence
is composed of barren but of predators,
atmospheric lava fields. populations
may increase,
damaging fragile
ecosystems.

Canaries
belong to the
finch family of
songbirds. The
popular canary has
been bred from the
wild serin, native
Colonizing plant species, Mount Teide (Tenerife) to the Canaries.





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Spanish Art

Three Spanish painters stand out as milestones in the history
of Western art. Diego de Velázquez was a 17th-century court The king and queen,
portrait painter and his Las Meninas is a seminal work. Francisco reflected in a mirror
de Goya depicted Spanish life during one of its most violent be hind the painter,
may be posing for
periods. The prolific 20th-century master Pablo Picasso is recog- Self-portrait their portrait.
nized as the founder of modern art. To these names must be of Velázquez
added that of El Greco – who was born in Crete but who lived
in Spain, where he painted religious scenes in an indi vidualistic
style. The work of these and Spain’s many other great artists can
be seen in world- renowned
galleries, especially the Prado
(see pp296–9).

In his series Las Meninas (1957),
Picasso interprets the frozen
gesture of the five-year-old
Infanta Margarita. Altogether,
Picasso produced 44 paintings
based on Velázquez’s canvas.
Some of them are in Barcelona’s
Museu Picasso (see p157).
Religious Art in Spain
The influence of the Catholic Church on Spanish art through the
ages is reflected in the predominance of religious imagery. Many
churches and museums have
Romanesque altarpieces or
earlier icons. El Greco (see
p395) painted from a
highly personal religious
vision. Baroque religious
art of the 17th century, Las Meninas (1656)
when the In quisition (see
p278) was at its height, In Velázquez’s painting of
often graphically depicts the Infanta Margarita and her
physical suffering and courtiers, in the Prado (see
spiritual torment. pp296–9), the eye is drawn
into the distance where the
artist’s patron, Felipe IV, is
The Burial of the Count of reflected in a mirror.
Orgaz by El Greco (see p394)




1285–1348 1390–1410 The Resurrection 1598–1664 Francisco
Ferrer Bassá Pere Nicolau by Pedro Berruguete de Zurbarán
1363–95 1428–1460 1591–1652
Jaume Serra Luis Daimau José de Ribera

1300 1400 1500
1388–1424 1474–95 Bartolomé 1565–1628
Luis Borrassa Bermejo Francisco
Madonna with 1450–1504 Pedro Berruguete Ribalta
Angels (detail)
by Ferrer Bassá 1427–52 Bernat 1541–1614 1599–1660 Diego
Martorell El Greco de Velázquez





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Modern Art
The early 20th-century artists Joan Miró
(see p176), Salvador Dalí (see p219) and
José Nieto, the queen’s Pablo Picasso (see p157) all belonged
chamberlain, stands in
the doorway in the back- to the Paris School. More recent artists
ground of the painting. of note include Antonio Saura and
Antoni Tàpies (see p168). Among
many great Spanish art collections,
Court jester the Museo Reina Sofia in Madrid (see
pp302–3) specializes in mod ern art. Salvador Dalí’s
Contemporary artists are accorded painting of the
great prestige in Spain. Their work is Colossus of
to be seen in town halls, banks and Rhodes (1954)
public squares, and many towns have
a museum dedicated to a local painter.













Painting (1933) by Joan Miró








The Family of King Charles IV
was painted in 1800 by Francisco
de Goya (see p243), nearly 150
years after Las Meninas. Its debt to
Velázquez’s painting is evident in
its frontal composition, compact
grouping of figures and in the
inclusion of a self-portrait.



The Holy Children with 1893–1983 Joan Miró 1904–89
the Shell by Murillo Salvador Dalí
1881–1973 Pablo Picasso
1746–1828 1923–2012
Francisco de Goya 1863–1923 Antoni
Joaquín Sorolla
Tàpies
1700 1800 1900
1887–1927
1642–93 Claudio Coello Juan Gris
1618–82 Bartolomé 1930–1998
Esteban Murillo Still Life with a Guitar Antonio Saura
(1913) by Juan Gris





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38  INTRODUCING SP AIN


Literary Spain two nobles and a scheming
go-between. This was an age
The best-known work of Spanish literature, Don Quixote in which tales of chivalry were
is considered the first modern novel, but Spain has also popular.
produced many major works over the last 2,000 years.
The Roman writers Seneca, Lucan and Martial were born
in Spain. Later, the Moors developed a flourishing, but
now little-known, literary culture. Although Spanish
(Castilian) is the national tongue, many enduring works
have been written in the Galician and Catalan regional
languages. Basque literature, hitherto an oral culture, is
a more recent development. Many foreign writers, such
as Alexandre Dumas, Ernest Hemingway and Karel
Capek, have written accounts of their travels in Spain.

Under his supervision a team
Middle Ages of Jews, Christians and Arabs
As the Roman empire fell, wrote scholarly treatises. The The prolific Golden Age dramatist,
Latin evolved into several king himself was a poet, Félix Lope de Vega
Ro mance languages. The writ ing in Galician Romance.
earliest non-Latin literature The first great prose works
in Spain derives from an oral in Spanish appeared in the Golden Age
tradition that arose before the 14th and 15th centuries. The 16th century hailed
10th century. It is in the form El Libro de Buen Amor, by an the start of Spain’s Golden
of jarchas, snatches of love ec clesiastic, Juan Ruiz, is a tale Age of literature. But it was
poetry written in Mozarab, of the love affairs of a priest, also a period of domestic
the Romance language that interleaved with other stories. strife. This found expression
was spoken by Christians Fernando de Rojas uses skil ful in the picaresque novel, a
liv ing under the Moors. characterization in La Celestina Spanish genre originating
In the 12th century, the first to tell a tragic love story about with the anonymous El
poems appeared in Castilian. Lazarillo de Tormes, a
During the next 300 years, two bit ter reflection on
separate schools of poetry the misfor tunes of
developed. The best-known a blind man’s guide.
example of trouba dour verse is Spiritual writers flourished
the anonymous epic, El Cantar under the austere climate
del Mío Cid, which tells of the of the Counter-Reformation.
heroic exploits of El Cid (see St John of the Cross’s Cántico
p374) during the Recon quest. Espiritual was influenced by
Works of clerical poetry – Oriental erotic poetry and
for example, Gonzalo de the Bible’s Song of Songs.
Berceo’s Milagros de Nuestra The 17th century saw
Señora, relating the life the emergence of more
of the Virgin – convey great talents. The life and
a moral message. work of Miguel de Cervantes
Spanish literature (see p337) straddles the two
evolved in the 13th cen turies of the Golden
century after Alfonso X Age. He published his
the Learned (see p59) master-piece, Don Quixote,
replaced Latin in 1615. Other important
with Castilian writers of the time include
Romance Francisco de Quevedo and
(later called Luis de Góngora.
Span ish) as Corrales (public theatres)
the official appeared in the 17th
language. century, opening the way
for Lope de Vega (see p294),
Alfonso X the Learned Calderón de la Barca and
(1221–84) other dramatists.





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A POR TR AIT OF SP AIN  39



Andalucía to make universal
statements in his poems
and plays, such as Yerma.
In the aftermath of the Civil
War, many intellectuals who
had backed the Republic were
forced into exile. The Franco
regime tried to create its own
propagandist culture. Yet the
finest literature of the period
was written in spite of
the political cli mate.
Camilo José Cela’s
La Colmena, a
description of
everyday life
in the hungry,
postwar city
of Madrid, set
a mood of
social realism
that inspired
other writers.
Don Quixote’s adventures portrayed by José Moreno Carbonero Since the
1960s, the novel
Nacionales. The heroine in has become
18th and 19th Centuries
Clarín’s La Regenta is undone increasingly
Influenced by the French by the re actionary prejudices popular due to the
Enlightenment, literature in of pro vincial town society. emergence of writers
the 18th century was seen as like Joan Benet, Julio
a way to educate the people. 20th Century Llamazares, Antonio
Such was the aim, for instance, Muñoz Molina, José
of Leandro Fernández de Writers at the turn of the century, Manuel Caballero
Moratín’s comedy El Sí de las including Pío Baroja (see p68), Bonald, Juan Marsé
Niñas. This period saw the Miguel de Unamuno and and the best-selling
development of journalism Antonio Machado, described Carlos Ruiz Zafón.
as well as the emergence of Spain as falling behind the The 20th and 21st Statue of
the essay as a literary form. rest of Europe. Ramón María centuries have also García Lorca
Ro manticism had del Valle-Inclán wrote witnessed a surge of
a short and late highly satirical plays great Spanish literature from
life in Spain. Don that created the Latin America. Prominent
Juan Tenorio, foundations authors include Jorge Luis
a tale of the of modern Borges, José Ángel Mañas,
legendary Spanish theatre. Javier Marías and Gabriel
irrepressible In poetry, the García Márquez.
Latin lover Nobel Prize
by José winner, Juan
Zorrilla, is the Ramón Jiménez,
best-known strived for pure-
Romantic play. ness of form.
The satirical José Zorrilla (1817–93) The so-called
essayist Larra stands “Generation of
out from his contem poraries 27” combined European
at the beginning of the 19th experimental art with Spain’s
century. Towards the end of the traditional literary subjects.
century, the novel became a The best-known of them is
vehicle for realistic portrayals the poet and play wright
of Spanish society. Benito Pérez Federico García Lorca who
Galdós, regarded by many to was executed by a Fas cist
be Spain’s great est novelist after firing squad in 1936 (see p71).
Cervantes, studied the human He drew on the legends and Carlos Ruiz Zafón, author of the best-
condition in his Episodios stereotypes of his native selling book The Shadow of the Wind





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40  INTRODUCING SP AIN


The Bullfighting Tradition

Bullfighting is a sacrificial ritual in which men (and a
few women) pit themselves against a bull bred for the
ring. In this “authentic religious drama”, as poet García
Lorca described it, spectators experience the fear and
exaltation felt by the matador. Bullfights today, how­
ever, are often debased by practices that weaken the
bull, such as shaving its horns. Opinion is divided on
this, with a growing number of Spaniards opposing
the tradition. Catalonia banned bullfighting on Plaza de Toros de la Maestranza, Seville.
grounds of cruelty in 2010. The ban was reversed by This ring is regarded, with Las Ventas in
Madrid, as one of the top venues for
Spain’s constitutional court in 2016 but Catalonia’s bullfighting in Spain.
regional government continues to ignore this ruling.
Many still regard the toreo, the art of bull fighting, as
an essential part of their cultural heritage.
The matador wears
a traje de luces (suit of
light), a colourful silk
outfit embroidered
with gold sequins.







Well treated at the ranch, the toro
bravo (fighting bull) is specially bred for
qualities of aggressiveness and courage.
As aficionados of bullfighting point out
in its defence, the young bull enjoys a
full life while it is being prepared for its
15 minutes in the ring. Bulls must be at
least four years old before they fight.



The Bullfight Horses are
The corrida (bullfight) now padded.
traditionally has three
stages, called tercios. In the
first stage, the tercio de varas,
the matador and picadores
(horsemen with lances) are
aided by peones (assistants).
In the second stage, or tercio
de banderillas, banderilleros,
the matador stick pairs
of darts in the bull’s back.
In the third stage, the tercio
de muleta, the matador
makes a series of passes at
the bull with a muleta (cape). The matador plays the bull with Picadores goad the bull with
He then executes the kill, a capa (red cape) in the tercio de steel-pointed lances, testing its
the estocada, with a sword. varas. Peones will then draw the bravery. The lances weaken the
bull towards the picadores. animal’s shoulder muscles.





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A POR TR AIT OF SP AIN  41



The Bullring Key
The corrida audience is seated Tendidos
in the tendidos (stalls) or in the Palcos
palcos (balcony), where the
presidencia (president’s box) is Presidencia
situated. Opposite are the puerta Puerta de cuadrillas
de cuadrillas, through which the Arrastre de toros
matador and team arrive, and
the arrastre de toros (exit for Callejón
bulls). Before entering the ring, Barreras
the matadors wait in a corridor Burladeros
(callejón) behind barreras and Patio de caballos
burladeros (barriers). Horses are
kept in the patio de caballos Corrales
and the bulls in the corrales. Plan of a typical bullring

Manolete is regarded
by most followers of
bullfighting as one of the
greatest matadors ever.
He was eventually gored
to death by the bull Islero
at Linares, Jaén, in 1947.







The passes are made with
a muleta, a cape stiffened
along one side.


José Tomás is one of Spain’s
The bull may go free if it
shows courage – spectators leading matadors today. He is
wave white handkerchiefs, famous for his purist approach
asking the corrida president and for his natural and elegant
to let it leave the ring alive. style with both the capa and the muleta.
The bull weighs
about 500 kg
(1,100 lbs).













Banderilleros enter to provoke The matador makes passes The estocada recibiendo is
the wounded bull in the tercio with the cape in the tercio de a difficult kill, rarely seen. The
de banderillas, sticking pairs of muleta, then lowers it and matador awaits the bull’s charge
banderillas in its back. thrusts in the sword for the kill. rather than moving to meet it.





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42  INTRODUCING SP AIN


The Fiestas of Spain

On any day of the year there is a fiesta happening
somewhere in Spain – usually more than one. There isn’t
a village, town or city in the country that doesn’t honour
its patron saint, the Virgin or the changing seasons with
processions, bullrunning, fire works, re-enacted battles,
some ancestral rite or a romería – a mass pilgrimage to
a rural shrine. Whatever the pretext, a fiesta is a chance
for everyone to take a break from normal life (most shops
and offices close) and let off steam, with celebrations
sometimes going on around the clock.

During the festival of Los Many romerías wind through the
Spring Fiestas
Mayos, on 30 April and the countryside during the year
The end of winter and the following days, crosses are
start of spring are marked by decorated with flowers in The best Semana Santa (Easter
Valencia’s great fire festival, Las parts of Spain. Week) processions are held
Fallas (see p259), in which huge in Seville (see p437), Granada,
papier-mâché sculptures are Málaga, Murcia and Valladolid.
set alight in a symbolic act Easter Brotherhoods of robed men
of burning the old in order Most communities observe carry pasos, huge sculptures
to make way for the new. Easter in some form with depicting the Virgin, Christ or
Alcoi’s mock battles between pomp and solemnity. It is scenes of the Passion, through
costumed armies of Moors and heralded by the Palm Sunday the streets. They are accom-
Christians in April (see p259) proces sions. The most panied by people dressed as
are the most spectacular of impressive of these is in Elx, biblical characters or penitents,
the countless fiestas which where intricate sculptures in tall conical hats. In some
commemorate the battles of are woven from blanched towns passion plays are acted
the Reconquest. Seville’s April leaves cropped from the out. In others, people carry
Fair (see p437), is the biggest most extensive forest of palm heavy crosses. Sometimes
celebration held in Andalucía. trees in Europe (see p265). the centuries-old ritual of self-
flagellation can be witnessed.

Summer Fiestas
The first major fiesta of the
summer is Pentecost (also
known as Whitsun), in May
or June, and its most famous
celebration is at El Rocío (see
p469), where many thousands
of people gather in a frenzy
of religious devotion.
At Corpus Christi (in May or
June) the consecrated host is
carried in procession through
many cities in an ornate silver
monstrance. The route of the
procession is often covered
with a carpet of flowers. The
main Corpus Christi celebra-
tions take place in Valencia,
Toledo and Granada.
On Midsummer’s Eve (La
Víspera de San Juan), bon fires
are lit all over, especially in the
areas along the Mediterranean
coast, to herald the celebration
The Brotherhood of Candlemas, Semana Santa (Easter Week) in Seville of St John the Baptist on 24 June.





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A POR TR AIT OF SP AIN  43



During Los Sanfermines (see
p136) in Pamplona in July,
young people run through the
streets in front of a herd of bulls.
The Virgin of Carmen,
who is revered as the patron
of fishermen, is honoured
in many ports on 16 July.
The important Catholic
holiday of Assumption Day,
15 August, is marked by a huge
number and variety of fiestas.
Autumn Fiestas
There are few fiestas in
autumn, but in most wine
regions the grape harvest is
fêted. The annual pig slaugh ter Colourful parade at the Carnival in Santa Cruz de Tenerife (see p540)
has become a jubilant public
event in some villages, characters may make fun of on 5 February, when women,
especially in Extremadura. In passers­by. for once, are the protagonists
Galicia it is traditional to roast To celebrate New Year’s Eve of many fiestas. In Zamarra­
chestnuts on street bonfires. (Noche Vieja), crowds gather mala (Segovia), for example,
On All Saints’ Day, 1 Nov­ beneath the clock in Madrid’s women take over the mayor’s
ember, people remember central square, the Puerta del privileges and powers for this
the dead by visiting cemeteries Sol (see p276), after a midnight particular day (see p372).
to lay flowers, especially celebration at home with their
chrysanthemums, on graves. families. Traditionally people
eat 12 grapes, one on each
chime of midnight, to bring
Christmas and New Year good luck for the year.
Nochebuena (Christmas Eve) is Epiphany, on 6 January, is
the main Christmas celebration, celebrated with parades of the
when families gather for an Three Kings in villages and
evening meal before attending towns the evening before.
Midnight Mass, known as misa
del gallo (Mass of the rooster).
During the Christmas period, Winter Fiestas St Anthony’s Day in Villanueva de Alcolea
belenes (crib scenes) of painted Animals hold centre stage in a (Castellón province)
figurines abound. You may variety of fiestas on 17 January,
also see a “living crib”, peo pled the Day of St Anthony, patron
by costumed actors. Spain’s saint of ani mals, when pets and Carnival
“April Fools’ Day” is 28 December, live stock are blessed by priests. Carnival, in February or early
when people play practical St Agatha, the patron saint of March (depending on the
jokes on each other. Clown­like married women, is honoured date of Easter), brings a
chance for a street party as
winter comes to an end and
before Lent begins. The big­
gest celebrations are held in
Santa Cruz de Tenerife (see
p540) – comparable with
those of Rio de Janeiro – and
in Cádiz (see p469). Carnival
was prohibited by the Franco
regime because of its licen­
tiousness and frivolity. It ends
on or after Ash Wednesday
with the Burial of the Sardine,
a “funeral” in which a mock
sardine, representing winter,
A spectacularly costumed choir singing during Carnival in Cádiz is ritually burned or buried.





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44  INTRODUCING SP AIN

SPAIN THROUGH THE YEAR

Festivals, cultural events and sports Music, dance, drama and film festivals are
competitions crowd the calendar in Spain. held in Spain’s major cities throughout the
Even small villages have at least one year. Meanwhile, the country’s favourite
traditional fiesta, lasting a week or more, outdoor sports – football, basketball, cycling,
when parades, bull fights and fireworks sailing, golf and tennis – culminate in several
displays replace work (see pp42–3). Many national and international championships.
rural and coastal towns celebrate the It is a good idea to confirm specific dates
harvest or fishing catch with a gastronomic of events with the local tourist board as
fair at which you can sample local produce. some vary from year to year.


Spring
Life in Spain moves outdoors
with the arrival of spring, and
terrace cafés begin to fill with
people. The countryside is at
its best as wild flowers bloom,
and irrigation channels flow to
bring water to the newly sown
crops. The im portant Easter
holiday is a time of solemn
processions throughout
the country.
March
International Vintage Car Rally
(usually first Sun), from Barcelona
to Sitges. More than 60 vintage
cars make this annual 45-km Feria del Caballo (Festival of the Horses) in Jerez de la Frontera
(28-mile) journey.
Las Fallas (15–19 Mar), Valencia Religious Music Week April Fair (2 weeks after Easter),
(see p259). This spec tacular fiesta (Easter week, from Seville. Exuberant Andalucían
also marks the start of the bull- Passion Sat), Cuenca. fiesta (see p437).
fighting (see pp40–41) season. Trofeo Conde de Godó Feria Nacional del Queso
Fiestas (end Feb or mid-Mar), (mid- to late Apr), Barcelona. (late Apr/early May), Trujillo
Castellón de la Plana. All in Spain’s international tennis (Cáceres). A festival celebrat ing
honour of Mary Magdalene. championship. Spanish cheese (see p411).
Moors and Christians
April (21–24 Apr), Alcoi (see p262). May
Spanish Motorcycle This colourful costumed event Dos de Mayo (2 May), Madrid.
Grand Prix (Apr/early May), celebrates the Christian Music, fireworks and dancing
Jerez de la Frontera race track. victory over the Moors in 1276. in the streets in remembrance
of the 1808 rebellion against
Napolean’s occupation.
Feria del Caballo (first week),
Jerez de la Frontera. Horse
fair showing Andalucía at
its most traditional, with
fine horses and beautiful
women in flamenco dresses.
Fiestas de San Isidro
(8–15 May), Madrid (see p294).
Bullfights at Las Ventas
bull ring are the highlights
of the taurine year.
Spanish Formula One
Grand Prix (May/Jun),
Montmeló circuit, Barcelona.
Onlookers lining the street during the Vuelta Ciclista a España (p46) International motor race.




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SP AIN THROUGH THE Y EAR  45


Blues Cazorla (Jul), Cazorla
(Jaén). Largest blues festival
in Spain, held over three days.
Cider Festival (second
weekend), Nava (Asturias).
Includes traditional cider­
pouring competitions.
International Jazz Festivals in
San Sebastián (third week), Getxo
(first week) and Vitoria (mid-Jul).
Pyrenean Folklore Festival
(late Jul/early Aug, odd years),
Jaca (Aragón). Folk costumes,
music and dance.
Certamen Internacional
de Habaneras y Polifonía
(late Jul–early Aug), Torrevieja
(Alicante). Musical compe tition
of 19th­century seafarers’ songs.
August
International Festival of
Santander (Aug). Celebration
of music, dance and theatre.
Copa del Rey MAPFRE (end
Jul/first week Aug), Palma de
San Sebastián, one of the most popular resorts on the north coast Mallorca. Sailing competition,
presided over by King Felipe VI.
fiestas everywhere to cele­ Descent of the Río Sella
Summer
brate food and drink, from (first Sat). Canoe race in Asturias
August is Spain’s big holiday the fishing catches of the north from Arriondas to Ribadesella
season. The cities empty as coast to the sausages of the (see p111).
Spaniards flock to the coast or Balearic Islands. Assumption Day (15 Aug)
to their second homes in the The Assumption is celebrated
hills. Their numbers are June throughout the country.
swelled by millions of foreign International Festival of
tourists, and beaches and Music and Dance (Jun–Jul),
camp sites are often full to Granada. Classical music and
bursting. As the heat starts in ballet staged in the Alhambra
the centre and south, enter­ and the Generalife.
tainment often takes place Grec Arts Festival (late Jun–
only in the evening, when the Aug), Barcelona. Both Spanish
temperature has dropped. In and international theatre,
late summer the harvest begins music and dance.
and there are gastro nomic A Rapa das Bestas (Jun, Jul,
Aug), Pontev edra, La Coruña
and Lugo provinces (Galicia).
Wild horses are rounded up so
that their manes and tails can
be cut (see p102).
Classical Theatre Festival (end
Jun–Aug), Mérida. Staged in Participants in the Descent of the Río
the Roman theatre and Sella canoe race
amphitheatre (see p414).
Semanas Grandes (mid-Aug),
July Bilbao and San Sebastián.
Guitar Festival (timing varies), “Great Weeks” of sporting
Córdoba. From classical to and cultural events.
flamenco (see pp428–9). Misteri d’Elx (14–15 Aug;
International Classical also 29 Oct–1 Nov during
Theatre Festival of Almagro Medi eval Festival), Elx (see
(Jul). Spanish and classical p265). Unique liturgical
The pouring and tasting of cider in repertoire in one of the oldest drama featuring spectacular
Asturias’s Cider Festival theatres in Europe (see p403). special effects.




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46  INTRODUCING SP AIN






















Vines and the village of Larouco in the Valdeorras wine region of Galicia (see p82) in autumn
Grape Harvest (mid-Sep), Jerez Moors and Christians (mid-
Autumn de la Frontera. Celebra tion of Oct), Callosa d’en Sarria
Autumn usually brings rain after the new crop in the country’s (Alicante). Parades in honour
the heat of summer, and, with sherry capital. of the local madonna.
the tourist season over, many San Sebastián Film Festival Saffron Festival (last weekend),
resorts virtually close down. Har­ (mid- to late Sep). Film­makers Consuegra (Toledo). A
vest festivities continue, how­ gather in this Basque city for celebration of this expensive
ever, and the most important a long­running festival and spice, which is grown locally.
celebrations are in honour of film competition (see p127).
the grape. The first pressings Festival de la Mercé (17–24
are blessed and, in some Sep), Barcelona. Free concerts
places, wine is served for free. and folkloric events.
In woodland areas, freshly Bienal de Arte Flamenco
picked wild mushrooms start (early Sep–early Oct, even years
to appear in various dishes on only), Seville. Top flamenco
local restaurant menus. The artists perform.
hunting season begins in the
middle of October and runs October
until February. Autumn is also Día de la Hispanidad (12 Oct).
the start of the new drama and Spain’s national holiday marks
classical music seasons in the Columbus’s discovery of
major cities of Spain. America in 1492. The big gest
celebration in the country is
September the exuberant fiesta of Día del
Vuelta Ciclista a España Pilar in Zaragoza (see p243),
(Sep). Annual bicycle race which marks the end of the Driving down the fairway at one of Spain’s
around Spain. bullfighting year. golfing championships
November
All Saints’ Day (1 Nov).
This marks the start of the
matanza (pig slaughter) in
rural Spain.
Os Magostos (11 Nov).
Chest nut­harvest fairs
abound in Galicia.
Latin American Film Festival
(mid-Nov for one week),
Huelva (see p468).
National Flamenco Compe ti­
tion (mid-Nov for two weeks),
Córdoba. Song, dance and
Lana Turner on centre-stage at the San Sebastián Film Festival guitar performances.




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SP AIN THROUGH THE Y EAR  47


Public Holidays
Besides marking the national holidays below, each region
(comunidad autónoma) celebrates its own holiday, and
every town and village has at least one other fiesta each
year. If a holiday falls on a Tuesday or a Thursday, some
people also choose to take holidays on the intervening
Monday or Friday, making a long weekend called a
puente (bridge).
Año Nuevo (New Year’s Day) (1 Jan)
Día de los Tres Reyes (Epiphany) (6 Jan)
Jueves Santo (Maundy Thursday) (Mar/Apr)
Viernes Santo (Good Friday) (Mar/Apr)
Día de Pascua (Easter Sunday) (Mar/Apr)
Día del Trabajo (Labour Day) (1 May)
Asunción (Assumption Day) (15 Aug)
Día de la Hispanidad (National Day) (12 Oct)
Todos los Santos (All Saints’ Day) (1 Nov)
Día de la Constitución (Constitution Day) (6 Dec)
Inmaculada Concepción (Immaculate Conception) (8 Dec)
Assumption Day in La Alberca (Salamanca) Navidad (Christmas Day) (25 Dec)


Winter
Winter varies greatly from
region to region. In the
mountains, snowfalls bring
skiers to the slopes; while in
lower areas, olive and orange
picking are in full swing.
The higher parts of Central
Spain can become very cold.
Andalucía, the east coast and
the Balearic Islands have cool
nights but often sunny days.
The winter warmth of the
Canary Islands brings the high Skiers in the Sierra de Guadarrama, north of Madrid (see p333)
tourist season. Christmas is a
special time of celebration – December Canary Islands International
an occasion for families to El Gordo (22 Dec). Spain’s Music Festival (Jan–Feb).
reunite, share food and attend largest lottery prize, “the Fat Classical concerts are held on
religious celebrations. One”, is drawn. La Palma and Tenerife.
Noche Buena (24 Dec) is a
family Christmas Eve, fol lowed February
by Midnight Mass. La Endiablada (2–3 Feb),
Santos Inocentes (28 Dec), Almonacid del Marquesado
Spain’s version of April Fools’ (Cuenca). Townsfolk dress
Day, when people play tricks. as devils in honour of
Noche Vieja (31 Dec). New San Blas.
Year’s Eve is most celebrated ARCO (mid-Feb), Madrid.
in Madrid’s Puerta del Sol. International contemporary
art fair.
January Pasarela Cibeles (Fashion
Día de los Tres Reyes (6 Jan). Week) (mid-Feb), Madrid.
On the eve of the Epiphany, Women’s and men’s fashion
the Three Kings parade through shows in the capital.
town, throwing sweets to Carnival (Feb/Mar). Final
the children. fiesta before Lent, with
La Tamborrada (19–20 Jan), col ourful costumes. Those in
“El Gordo”, the largest Spanish lottery San Sebastián. Drumming en Santa Cruz de Tenerife and
prize, being drawn masse in traditional costume. Cádiz are among the best.




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48  INTRODUCING SP AIN

The Climate of Spain
MADRID
Average monthly
Spain’s large landmass, with its exten sive 36 maximum
high plateaus and mountain ranges, °C 25 24 temperature
and the influences of the Medi terranean and 13 14 Average monthly
Atlantic, produce a wide range of climatic 3 3 minimum
variation, especially in winter. The north is 0 –5 temperature
wettest year-round, the eastern and southern 8 12 6.5 5 Freezing point
coasts and the islands have mild winters, hrs hrs hrs hrs Average daily hours
while winter temperatures in the interior 48 11 53 39 of sunshine
are often below freezing. Summers every- mm mm mm mm Average monthly
where are hot, except in upland areas. month Apr Jul Oct Jan rainfall

ASTURIAS AND
CANTABRIA
Oviedo Santander San Sebastián
29 (Donostia)
°C 24 25 Santiago de Bilbo
Compostela
18 (Bilbao)
13
6 8 Vigo León Iruña
2 Burgos (Pamplona)
0
6 6.5 4.5 2.5
Valladolid
hrs hrs hrs hrs
Lleida
83 54 133 10 Zaragoza
mm mm mm mm Salamanca Barcelona
month Apr Jul Oct Jan
MADRID
GALICIA Cuenca
Cáceres Toledo
°C 29 25 Valencia Palma
22 Badajoz
17 Albacete
12 Ciudad
Real
5 7
2
0
de Tenerife
6.5 8.5 5 3 Córdoba Murcia Alacant Santa Cruz
(Alicante)
hrs hrs hrs hrs
67 28 87 118 Sevilla Las Palmas
de Gran Canaria
mm mm mm mm
Granada
month Apr Jul Oct Jan
Málaga Almería
Cádiz
CASTILLA Y LEÓN EXTREMADURA ANDALUCÍA
36 41 38
°C °C 28 31 °C
25 26 27 28 22
18 18
14 14 12
9 7 10 4
0 0 1 0 6 0
–7 –2
8 12 6.5 3.5 9 12.5 7 5 8 11.5 7 6
hrs hrs hrs hrs hrs hrs hrs hrs hrs hrs hrs hrs
37 14 36 37 46 3 52 61 46 1 64 61
mm mm mm mm mm mm mm mm mm mm mm mm
month Apr Jul Oct Jan month Apr Jul Oct Jan month Apr Jul Oct Jan


048-049_EW_Spain.indd 48 26/09/17 11:52 am