(DK Eyewitness) Travel Guide - Spain

GALICIA  99


Rías Baixas

This southern part of Galicia’s west coast consists of four large rías or inlets between
pine-covered hills. The beaches are good, the scenery is lovely, the bathing safe and
the climate much milder than on the wilder coast to the north. Though areas such as
Vilagarcía de Arousa and Panxón have become popular holiday resorts, much of the
Rías Baixas (Rías Bajas) coastline is unspoiled, such as the quiet stretch from Muros to
Noia. This part of the coastline provides some of Spain’s most fertile fishing grounds.
Mussel-breeding platforms are positioned in neat rows along the rías, looking like
half-submerged submarines. Clams are harvested in late summer.

Carnota Serra de
Outes
Punta dos
Remedios Esteiro AC550
Lira
Muros Noia
Punta Boa
Louro Ría de Muros e Noia Tállara
Porto do
Son
Ponte
Muros, a pretty Beluso Between Muros and Noia the
little fortified Mirador da coast is less built up than further
port, has well- Curota Boiro south. This beautiful open coast,
preserved Xuño J Rianxo
examples of AC550 AG11 bare and rocky, is backed by hills.
typical Galician Bamio
architecture. A Pobra Vilagarcía Vilagarcía de Arousa is a
Caramiñal Ría de Arousa de Arousa popular resort with a pleasant
Corrubedo waterfront promenade and good
Arousa Vilanova de
Ribeira Arousa AP9 sailing and water sports facilities.
Ill de
Arousa Umia
Punta de
Couzo Cambados O Mosteiro
Cambados, known for its white
O Grove
Illa de wine, has a paved square, the
Sálvora PO550
San Vicente AG41 Praza de Fefiñanes, lined by
do Grove fine old houses.
Vilalonga Poio
A Lanzada
Combarro Pontevedra
Pontevedra is the lively
Sanxenxo provin cial capital and has
Illa de Ría de Pontevedra Marín a picturesque setting
Ons by a deep ría.
Mirador da
Cabo de J Cotorredondo
Udra
Bueu AP9
Moaña Hio, a small fishing village
Hio
Cabo de with a good beach, is
Combarro is a Home Cangas Teis Mirador da noted for having one
of the finest carved
picturesque fishing Ría d e Vi go Vigo J Madroa calvaries in Galicia.
village known for its Illas
hórreos (see p31) on Cies Coia AP9
the seafront.
The Illas Cíes have Panxón AG57
white sand, clear
water and a Baiona Nigrán
bird sanctuary.
Cabo Panxón, across the
Silleiro
broad bay from Baiona
0 kilometres 10 (see p100), is a popular
0 miles 5 holiday resort with
excellent sandy beaches.
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100  NOR THERN SP AIN

w A Guarda
Pontevedra. * 10,100. @ n Praza
do Reloxo 1, 986 61 45 46. ( Sat.
_ Virgen del Carmen (16 Jul), Monte
de Santa Tecla (2nd week Aug).
∑ aguarda.es
The little fishing port of A Guarda
(La Guardia) is famous for
seafood and is particularly well-
known for its lobsters.
On the slopes of Monte de
Santa Tecla are the remains of
a Celtic settlement of some 100
round stone dwellings dated
around 600–200 BC. The Museo
de Monte de Santa Tecla sits
Cannons on the battlements of Monterreal fortress, Baiona on a nearby hilltop.
0 Vigo can find some of the finest tapas. Environs
The Mercado de la Piedra, better About 10 km (6 miles) north,
Pontevedra. * 293,000. ~ £ @ known by its Galician name the tiny Baroque Monasterio
n Cánovas del Castillo 3, 986 22 47 Mercado de A Pedra, is located de Santa María stands by the
57. ( Wed, Sun. _ Cristo de los near the port and sells reason- beach at Oia. Semi-wild horses
Afligidos (3rd weekend in Jul), ably priced fish and shellfish. roam the surrounding hills and,
Cristo de la Victoria (1st week in Aug).
∑ turismodevigo.org in May and June, are rounded
up for branding in a series of
Galicia’s largest town is also the q Baiona day-long fiestas (see p102).
biggest fishing port in Spain. It is Pontevedra. * 12,100. @ n Paseo
situated in an attractive setting Ribeira, 986 68 70 67. ( Mon in E Museo de Monte de
near the mouth of a deep ría Sabaris (nearby). _ Santa Liberata (20 Santa Tecla
spanned by a high suspension Jul), Virgen de la Anunciada (2nd Sun A Guarda. Tel 690 017 038. Open Tue–
bridge, and is surrounded by in Aug). ∑ turismodebaiona.com Sun. Closed Jan. & 8 on request.
wooded hills. Vigo is not noted
for its old buildings The Pinta, one of the caravels
but does have from the fleet of Christopher
striking modern Columbus, arrived at this small
sculptures such as port on 1 March 1493, bringing
Juan José Oliveira’s the first news of the discovery
horses statue in the of the New World. Today Baiona
Praza de España. (Bayona), which is sited on a broad
The oldest part of the bay, is a popular summer resort,
town, Barrio del Berbes, its harbour a mix of pleasure
is near the port and and fishing boats. The 12th-
used to be the to 17th-century Iglesia Antigua
sailors’ quarter. Its Colegiata de Santa María is Circular foundations of Celtic dwellings at
cobbled alleys Romanesque with Cistercian A Guarda
are full of bars influences. Symbols on the
and cafés arches indicate the local guilds
where you that helped build the church. e Tui
A royal fortress once stood on Pontevedra. * 17,000. £ @ n
Monterreal promontory, to the Praza de San Fernando, 677 418 405.
north of town. Sections of its ( Thu. _ San Telmo (first weekend
defensive walls remain, but the after Easter).
interior has been converted into
a smart parador (see p562). A Spain’s main frontier town with
walk around the battlements Portugal, Tui (Tuy) stands on a
offers superb views of the coast. hillside above the Río Miño. Its
On the coast a short dis tance graceful old streets curve up
to the south is a huge granite to an old quar ter and the
and porcelain statue of the 12th-century hilltop cathedral.
Virgen de la Roca sculpted by The two countries were often
Bronze sculpture by Oliveira in Vigo’s Antonio Palacios in 1930. Visitors at war during the Middle Ages,
Praza de España can climb up inside the statue. and as a result the church is
For hotels and restaurants in this region see p562 and pp582–3


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GALICIA  101


Fishing in Spain Gothic choir stalls. In the garden
is the 10th-century Mozarabic
The Spanish eat more sea food Iglesia de San Miguel.
per head than any other
European nation except Portugal. Environs
The country has Europe’s largest At Santa Comba de Bande,
fishing fleet in terms of catch. 26 km (16 miles) to the south,
However, with the fishing indus- is an even older little church.
try in crisis, there are only about The features of this 7th-cent ury
9,500 boats that land Spain’s Visigothic (see pp54–5) church
catch of fish and shellfish. Much include a lantern turret and a
of this is caught off shore, where horseshoe arch that has
octopus, mackerel, clams and carved marble pillars.
lob ster are plentiful. The stocks
in the seas around Spain have
become depleted by over fishing t Verín
and an oil spill in 2002, forcing Ourense. * 14,000. @ n Rúa
Unloading the catch in Spain’s largest deep-sea trawlers to travel as Irmáns La Salle s/n, 988 41 16 14.
fishing port, Vigo far as Canada and Iceland. ( 3rd, 11th & 23rd of month. _
Carnival (Feb), Santa María (15 Aug).
built in the style of a fortress, r Celanova Though it stands amid vine yards,
with towers and battlements. It Ourense. * 5,500. @ n Praza Verín produces more than wine.
has a cloister and choir stalls and Maior 1, 988 43 22 01. ( Thu. Its mineral springs have given it
a richly decorated west porch. _ San Roque (15 Aug). a thriving bottled water industry.
Nearby is the Iglesia de San The town has many old houses
Telmo, dedicated to the pat ron On the main square of this little with arcades and glass balconies
saint of fishermen, whose town is the massive Monasterio (galerías). The Castelo de
Baroque ornamentation shows de San Salvador, Monterrei, built
a Portuguese influence. Near also known as the during the wars
the cathedral is an iron bridge, Monasterio de San with Portugal, is
the Puente Internacional, Rosendo, after its 3 km (2 miles) to
built by Gustave Eiffel in 1884 founder. Founded the west. Inside its
to stretch across the river to during the 10th three rings of walls
Valença do Minho in Portugal. century and later are two keeps, an
The Romanesque Iglesia de rebuilt, it is mainly arcaded courtyard
Santo Domingo, be side the Baroque, though and a 13th-century
Parque de la Alameda, has ivy- one of its two church with a
covered cloisters and tombs lovely cloisters is Ceramic tiled floor of the carved portal. The
with carved effigies. The church Renaissance. The Iglesia de San Miguel castle once housed
overlooks the river, which is used enormous church a monas tery and
in August for the Descent of the of this Benedictine monastery hospital. Now a parador, it can
Río Miño, a festive canoe race. has an ornate altarpiece and still be visited with a guided tour.





















The Castelo de Monterrei, standing high above the town of Verín




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102  NOR THERN SP AIN

y Ourense
Ourense. * 106,000. £ @
n Isabel la Católica 2, 988 36 60 64.
( 7th, 17th & 26th of each month.
_ Os Maios (1–3 May), Fiestas de
Ourense (end Jun).
The old quarter of Ourense
was built around the city’s well-
known thermal springs, Fonte
das Burgas. Even today, these
spout water at a tem perature of
65°C (150°F) from three fountains.
This old part of the town is
the most interesting, particu larly
the small area around the
The outrageous costumes of arcaded Plaza Mayor. Here the
Os Peliqueiros in Laza cathedral, founded in 572 and
rebuilt in the 12th–13th centu-
Galicia’s Fiestas ries, has a vast gilded reredos Ornate Gothic reredos in the cathedral
by Cornelis de Holanda. On at Ourense
Os Peliqueiros (Carnival,
Feb/Mar), Laza (Ourense). the triple-arched doorway are u Monasterio de
carved figures reminiscent of
Dressed up in grinning masks the Pórtico da Gloria at Sant iago Ribas de Sil
and outlandish costumes, (see p96). Nearby is the elegant
with cowbells tied to their Ribas de Sil, Ourense. Tel 988 01 01 10.
belts and brandishing sticks, 14th-century cloister, the Open daily.
Claustro de San Francisco.
Os Peliqueiros take to the Another landmark is the 13th- Near its confluence with
streets on Carnival Sunday. century Puente Romano, a seven- the Miño, 28 km (17 miles)
They are licensed to lash arched bridge which crosses the from Ourense, the Río Sil
out at onlookers, who are Río Miño, north of the town. carves a deep curving gorge
forbidden to retaliate. On Built on Roman foundations, in which dams form two
Carnival Monday morning, a it is now pedestrianized. reservoirs of dark-green
battle takes place, with flour, water. A hairpin road winds
water and live ants used as Environs to the top of the gorge,
ammunition. Laza’s carnival The towns of Allariz, 25 km where the Romanesque
comes to an end on the (16 miles) south, and Ribadavia, Gothic Monasterio de Ribas
Tuesday with a reading of to the west, have old Jewish de Sil is situated high on
the satirical “Donkey’s Will” quarters with narrow streets a crag above the chasm.
and the burning of an effigy. and Romanesque churches. Restored and converted
Flower pavements (Corpus Ribadavia is also noted for its into a charming parador, it
Christi, May/Jun), Ponteareas Ribeiro wines – a dry white has an enormous glass wall
(Pontevedra). The streets of the and a port-like red (see pp82–3) in one of the three cloisters,
town along which the Corpus – and has a wine museum. and fine views.
Christi procession passes are
carpeted with intricate designs
made from brightly coloured
flower petals.
A Rapa das Bestas
(Jun–Aug), Oia (Pontevedra).
Semi-wild horses are rounded
up by local farmers for their
manes and tails to be cut.
What was once a chore is
now a popular fiesta.
St James’s Day (25 Jul),
Santiago de Compostela.
On the night before, there is a
firework display in the Praza
do Obradoiro. The celebrations
are especially wild in a holy
year (when 25 July falls on
a Sunday).
The Río Sil winding its way through the gorge
For hotels and restaurants in this region see p562 and pp582–3


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GALICIA  103















The grandiose Monasterio de Oseira surrounded by the forests of the Valle de Arenteiro
i Monasterio inside are frescoes painted by de Lugo presents the city’s
de Oseira the nuns who lived here until history with high-tech exhibits
the 15th century. in a striking modern building.
Oseira, Ourense. Tel 988 28 20 04.
Open daily. & 8 compul sory. Tours The Cistercian Monasterio
start at 10am, 11am, noon, 3:30pm, Sobrado de los Monjes, to Environs
4:30pm & 5:30pm Mon–Sat; 12:45pm, the northwest, has a medieval The stone hamlet of Santa
3:30pm, 4:30pm & 5:30pm Sun. kitchen and chapterhouse, and Eulalia, to the west, conceals a
∑ mosteirodeoseira.org a church with unusual domes. curious building: a tiny temple,
with lively, bright frescoes of
This monastery stands in a birds and leaves. Though its
wooded valley near the hamlet p Lugo exact purpose is unknown, it is
of Oseira, named after the bears Lugo. * 98,000. £ @ n Praza do thought to be an early Christian
(osos) that once lived in this Campo 11, 982 25 16 58. ( Tue & Fri. church and has been dated at
area. It is a grey building with a _ San Froilán (4–12 Oct). ∑ lugo.gal around the 3rd century AD.
Baroque façade. On the door way
is a statue of the Virgin as nurse, Capital of Galicia’s largest E Museo Provincial
with St Bernard kneeling at her province, Lugo was also an Praza da Soidade. Tel 982 24 21 12.
feet. The interior of the 12th- to important centre under the Open Jul & Aug: Mon–Sat (am only
13th-century church is typically Romans. Attracted to the town Sat); Sep–Jun: daily (am only Sun).
Cistercian in its simplicity. by its thermal springs, they built 7 ∑ museolugo.org
what is now the finest surviving E Museo Interactivo da Historia
Roman wall in Spain. The wall, de Lugo
which encircles the city, is Parque da Milagrosa. Tel 982 25 16 58.
about 6 m (20 ft) thick and 10 m Open 11am–1:30pm & 5–7:30pm Tue–
(33 ft) high, with ten gateways. Sat, 5–8pm Sun. ∑ lugo.es/ws/mihl
Six of these give access to the
top of the wall, from where
there is a good view of the city. a O Cebreiro
Inside the wall, the Old Town Lugo. * 1,100. @ n 982 36 70 25.
is lively, with pretty squares. In _ Santa Maria Real (8 Sep), Santo
the Praza de Santo Domingo Milagro (9 Sep).
is a black statue of a Roman
eagle, built to commemorate In the hills in the east of Galicia,
Augustus’s capture of Lugo close to the border with León, is
Fresco of a dona in the monastery at from the Celts in the 1st one of the most unusual villages
Vilar de Donas century BC. The large, on the Road to Santiago. Its 9th-
Romanesque cathedral century church was supposedly
o Vilar de Donas is modelled on that of the scene of a miracle in 1300
Santiago. It features an when the wine was turned
Lugo. * 80. n Palas de Rei, Avenida
de Compostela 47, 982 38 07 40. elegant Baroque cloister, into blood and the bread into
Church: Open noon–6:30pm daily. and a chapel containing flesh. Nearby, there are several
8 _ San Antonio (13 Jun), San the alabaster statue of pallozas, round thatched
Salvador (6 Aug). Nuestra Señora de los stone huts of a Celtic
Ojos Grandes (Virgin design. Some have been
This hamlet on the Road to of the Big Eyes). The restored, and are now
Santiago (see pp86–7) has a Museo Provincial part of a folk museum.
small church, San Salvador, just exhibits local Celtic
off the main road. Inside are and Roman finds, E Museo Etnográfico
tombs of some of the Knights while the Museo Painted gourd in O Cebreiro. Tel 982 36
of the Order of Santi ago. Also Interactivo da Historia O Cebreiro’s museum 70 53. Open Tue–Sun.




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NOR THERN SP AIN  105

ASTURIAS AND

CANTABRIA


Asturias • Cantabria

One of the principal attractions of Asturias and Cantabria
is the spectacular Picos de Europa massif, which sits astride
the border between these two regions. Cottage crafts are still kept alive
in ancient villages located in remote mountain valleys and along the sheer
coastline. Cave paintings, such as those at Altamira, were made by people
living here about 35,000 years ago.
Asturias is proud that it resisted invasion by Cantabria is a region of stunning nature,
the Moors. The Reconquest of Spain is said excellent gastronomy, well-preserved
to have begun in 718, when a Moorish villages and towns – including Santillana
force was defeated at Covadonga, in the del Mar and Carmona – and unique artistic
Picos de Europa. The Christian kingdom of sites, such as the Altamira Caves. It also has
Asturias was founded in the 8th century, a rich legacy of Romanesque churches.
and in the brilliant, brief artistic period that Its capital, Santander, is an elegant resort.
followed, many churches were built around Mountains cover more than half of both
the capital, Oviedo. Many of these churches provinces, so mountain sports are a major
built in the Asturian pre-Romanesque style attraction. Expanses of deciduous forests
still stand. Today, Asturias is a province and remain in many parts, some sheltering
a principality under the patron age of the Spain’s last wild bears. Along the coasts are
heir to the Spanish throne. The unspoiled pretty fish ing ports and resorts, such as
Asturian countryside is a natural paradise Castro Urdiales, Ribadesella and Comillas,
where cider and cheese are produced and sandy coves for bathing. Both the
and a quaint language, known as Bable coastal plains and uplands are ideal for
or Asturiano, is spoken. quiet rural holidays.

























Peaceful meadow around Lago de la Ercina in the Picos de Europa massif
The scenic Costa Verde, Asturias, with lush meadows reaching down to the shoreline



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106  NOR THERN SP AIN


Exploring Asturias and Cantabria

These two provinces are straddled by the impressive
Picos de Europa mountain range, which, along with
several other nature reserves in the area, is home to
such wildlife as golden eagles and brown bears. These
jagged peaks offer excellent rock-climbing and hiking
opportunities, and some parts can also be explored by
car or bicycle. In addition, Asturias and Cantabria offer
innumerable unspoiled villages, especially the ancient
seaside town of Santillana del Mar. On the coast, there
are many sandy coves for bathing, while Santander and
Oviedo are busy university cities with a rich cultural life.
Some of the earliest examples of art exist in Cantabria,
most notably at Altamira, where the cave drawings and Typical flower-covered balcony in the
engravings are among the oldest to be found in Europe. village of Bárcena Mayor




C O S T A V E R D E Cabo de Peñas Luanco
A Coruña Cabo Vidio AVILÉS Candás
Navia Luarca Cudillero Tazones
Figueras GIJÓN
Castropol CASTRO Canero Pravia Lastres SANTANDER Cabo de Ajo
Noja
Vegadeo DE COAÑA Villaviciosa Isla RIBADESELLA SANTILLANA Ajo Santoña
Navia La Espina Salas Narcea Nalón de Siero VALDEDIÓS Llanes San Vicente DEL MAR LAREDO
Pola
COMILLAS
CASTRO-
TARAMUNDI Tineo Grado OVIEDO Nava Arriondas CANGAS DE ONÍS de la Barquera Torrelavega Solares URDIALES
CUEVAS
San Martín Pola de Allande Belmonte Langreo Infiesto Covadonga Panes DE ALTAMIRA Bilbao
de Oscos Pesoz Proaza PARQUE NACIONAL Carmona PUENTE VIESGO
Puerto del Palo ASTURIAS Mieres Pola de Laviana Los Corrales Villacarriedo Ramales
de Buena
Grandas de Salime 1146m Campo DE LOS PICOS VALLE DE CANT ABRIA de la Victoria
Cangas del La Plaza de Caso DE EUROPA CABUÉRNIGA
Narcea TEVERGA Villanueva Pola de Cabañaquinta Barcena Mayor Vega de Pas
Lena
Parque Natural Espinama POTES
Marentes de Somiedo Puerto de la Corconte
Venta Nueva Puerto de Ventana ALTO CAMPOO
1587m
Somiedo Puerto de Pajares Embalse del Ebro
Puerto de Leitariegos 1486m 1379m Reinosa
1525m
Ibias
León Cervatos Julióbriga
Miravalles
1969m
Mataporquera
Palencia Burgos








A view along the crowded beach of Playa del Camello, Santander




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ASTURIAS AND C ANT ABRIA  107

Sights at a Glance
1 Taramundi
2 Castro de Coaña
3 Costa Verde
4 Teverga
5 Avilés
6 Gijón
7 Oviedo
8 Valdediós
9 Ribadesella
0 Cangas de Onís
q Parque Nacional de los Picos
de Europa pp112–13
w Potes
e Comillas
r Valle de Cabuérniga
t Alto Campoo
y Cuevas de Altamira
u Santillana del Mar
i Puente Viesgo
o Santander Cantabrian dairy farmers loading hay onto their cart
p Laredo
C O S T A V E R D E Cabo de Peñas Luanco a Castro Urdiales
A Coruña Cabo Vidio AVILÉS Candás
Navia Luarca Cudillero Tazones
Figueras GIJÓN
Castropol CASTRO Canero Pravia Lastres SANTANDER Cabo de Ajo
Noja
Vegadeo DE COAÑA Villaviciosa Isla RIBADESELLA SANTILLANA Ajo Santoña
Navia La Espina Salas Narcea Nalón de Siero VALDEDIÓS Llanes San Vicente DEL MAR LAREDO
Pola
COMILLAS
CASTRO-
TARAMUNDI Tineo Grado OVIEDO Nava Arriondas CANGAS DE ONÍS de la Barquera Torrelavega Solares URDIALES
CUEVAS
San Martín Pola de Allande Belmonte Langreo Infiesto Covadonga Panes DE ALTAMIRA Bilbao
de Oscos Pesoz Proaza PARQUE NACIONAL Carmona PUENTE VIESGO
Puerto del Palo ASTURIAS Mieres Pola de Laviana Los Corrales Villacarriedo Ramales
de Buena
Grandas de Salime 1146m Campo DE LOS PICOS VALLE DE CANT ABRIA de la Victoria
Cangas del La Plaza de Caso DE EUROPA CABUÉRNIGA
Narcea TEVERGA Villanueva Pola de Cabañaquinta Barcena Mayor Vega de Pas
Lena
Parque Natural Espinama POTES
Marentes de Somiedo Puerto de la Corconte
Venta Nueva Puerto de Ventana ALTO CAMPOO
1587m
Somiedo Puerto de Pajares Embalse del Ebro
Puerto de Leitariegos 1486m 1379m Reinosa
1525m
Ibias
León Cervatos Julióbriga
Miravalles
1969m
Mataporquera
0 kilometres 25
Palencia Burgos
0 miles 15
Getting Around
The main road through the Key
region is the A8. Most other major Motorway
roads follow the directions of the Motorway under construction
valleys and run north to south. Secondary road
Minor roads are generally good
but can be slow and winding. Minor road
The private RENFE railway, which Scenic route
follows the coast from Bilbao to Main railway
Ferrol in Galicia, is both useful and Minor railway
scenic. Brittany Ferries services
(one to three times a week) link Regional border
Santander with Plymouth and Summit Carved figure in the
Portsmouth. Asturias has a small Convento de Regina Coeli,
international airport near Avilés. Santillana del Mar
For keys to symbols see back flap
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108  NOR THERN SP AIN

3 Costa Verde
Asturias. k £ Avilés. @ Oviedo,
Gijón. n Avilés, Calle Ruiz Gomez 21,
985 54 43 25.
The aptly named “green coast” is
a succession of attractive sandy
coves and dramatic cliffs,
punctuated by deep estuaries
and numerous fishing villages.
Inland, there are lush mead ows,
and pine and eucalyptus forests,
backed by mountains. This
stretch of coastline has been
Craftsman making knife blades in a forge at Taramundi less spoiled than most in Spain;
the resorts tend to be modest
1 Taramundi oval and rectangular dwellings, in size, like the hotels.
some of which stand head Two pretty fishing ports,
Asturias. * 670. n Calle Solleiro 14,
985 64 68 77. _ San José (19 Mar). high. Inside can be found Castropol and Figueras, stand by
∑ taramundi.es hollowed-out stones which the eastern shore of the Ría de
are thought to have been Ribadeo, forming the border
Situated in the remote Los used for crushing corn. with Galicia. To the east are
Oscos region, this small village The museum on the site other picturesque villages
houses a rural tourism centre displays many of the finds that such as Tapia de Casariego and
which organizes forest tours in have been unearthed at Castro Ortiguera, in a small rocky cove.
four-wheel drive vehicles and de Coaña. Among the interest- Following the coast, Luarca lies
has several hotels and holiday ing remains on display are pot- beside a church and a quiet
cottages to rent. Taramundi has tery, tools and Roman coins. cemetery on a headland, and
a tradition of wrought-iron has a neat little harbour packed
craftsmanship. Iron ore was with red, blue and white boats.
first mined in the area by the The village of Cudillero is even
Romans. There are approx- more delightful – outdoor
imately 13 forges in and cafés and excellent seafood
around the village, where restaurants crowd the tiny plaza
craftsmen can still be seen beside the port, all of which are
making traditional knives with squeezed into a narrow cove.
decorated wooden handles. Behind, white cottages are
scattered over the steep hillsides.
Environs Further along the coast is the
About 20 km (12 miles) to the rocky headland of Cabo de Peñas
east, at San Martín de Oscos, where, in the fishing village of
there is an 18th-century palace. Candás, bullfights are held on
At Grandas de Salime, 10 km the sand at low tide on 14
(6 miles) further southeast, September. East of Gijón, Lastres
the Museo Etnográfico has is impressively located below a
displays showing local crafts, Circular stone foundations of dwellings at cliff, and Isla has a broad open
traditional life and farming. Castro de Coaña beach. Beyond Ribadesella is the
E Museo Etnográfico
Esquios. Tel 985 62 72 43. The Brown Bear
Open daily. & 7 The population of Spain’s brown
bears (Ursus arctos) has dwind led
from about 1,000 at the beginning of
2 Castro de Coaña the 20th century to about 250 today.
Asturias. @ 5 km (3 miles) from Navia. Hunting by man and the destruction
Tel 985 97 84 01. Open Wed–Sun. of the bear’s natural forest habitat
have caused the decline. But now,
One of the best-preserved pre- protected by nature reserves such
historic sites of the Cantabrian as Somiedo, where most of the
area, Castro de Coaña was later bears in Asturias are found, together
occupied by the Romans. Set on with new conservation laws, this
a hillside in the Navia Valley are magnificent omnivore is increasing One of the remaining bears in the
the remains of its fortifications in numbers again. forests of Asturias
and the stone foundations of
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp562–3 and pp583–4


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Church and cemetery overlooking the sea from the headland at Luarca
lively town of Llanes. Among the Environs town hides a medieval heart
attractions of this old forti fied The large Parque Natural de of some char acter, especially
seaport, with its dramatic Somiedo straddles the moun- around the Plaza de España.
mountain backdrop, are ruined tains bordering León. Its high The Iglesia de San Nicolás Bari is
ramparts and good beaches. meadows and forests are a decorat ed with frescoes and has
sanctuary for wolves, brown a Renaissance cloister. The
bears and capercaillies, as well Iglesia de Padres Franciscanos
4 Teverga as a number of rare species of contains a fine 14th-century
wild flowers. chapel and holds the tomb of
Asturias. * 1,700. @ La Plaza.
n Dr García Miranda s/n, San Martin The park has 4 glacial lakes, the first Governor of the US state
de Teverga, 985 76 42 93. Open 15 and is peppered with herds- of Florida. All around are arcaded
Jun–15 Sep: Tue–Sun; rest of year: Sat men’s traditional thatched huts, streets. The international airport
& Sun only. ∑ tevergaturismo.com known as teitos (see p31). outside Avilés serves all Asturias.
This area is rich in scenery,
wildlife and ancient churches. 5 Avilés 6 Gijón
Near the southern end of the Asturias. * 80,100. k £ @ n Asturias. * 273,000. £ @
Teverga gorge is La Plaza. Its Calle Ruîz Gómez 21, 985 54 43 25. ( n Puerto Deportivo, Espigón Central
church, Iglesia de San Pedro de Mon. _ San Agustín (last week Aug). de Fomento, 985 34 17 71. ( Sun.
Teverga, is a fine example of _ Semana Negra (mid-Jul), La Virgen
Romanesque architecture. West Avilés became the capital of de Begoña (15 Aug). ∑ gijon.info
of La Plaza is Villanueva, with Asturias’ steel industry in the
its Romanesque Iglesia de 1800s and is still ringed by big The province’s largest city, this
Santa María. The 20-km (12-mile) factories. Even though it is industrial port has been much
Senda del Oso path skirts the sometimes criti cized for having rebuilt since the Civil War when it
edge of a bear enclosure. little to offer the visitor, the was bombarded by the Nationalist
navy. The city’s most famous son
is Gaspar Melchor de Jovellanos,
an eminent 18th-century author,
reformer and diplomat.
Gijon’s Old Town is on a small
isthmus and headland. It
centres on the arcaded Plaza
Mayor and the 18th-century
Palacio de Revillagigedo, a
Neo-Renaissance folly now
housing a cultural centre. The
beach is popular in summer.
P Palacio de Revillagigedo/
Centro Cultural Cajastur
Plaza del Marqués 2. Tel 985 34 69 21.
Open Tue–Sun for temporary
The pretty 12th-century Iglesia de San Pedro at La Plaza exhibitions. 7




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110  NOR THERN SP AIN


7 Oviedo handsome old palaces. On this art including two crosses and
square is situated the Flamboy ant a reliquary – all made of gold,
Asturias. * 220,000. £ @ n Plaza
de la Constitución 4, 984 49 35 63. Gothic cathedral (see p28) with silver and precious stones.
( Thu, Sat & Sun. _ San Mateo its high tower and asym metrical Also situated in the Plaza
(14–21 Sep). ∑ turismoviedo.es west façade. Inside are tombs Alfonso II is the Iglesia de
of Asturian kings and a majestic San Tirso. This church was
Oviedo, a university city and the 16th-century gilded reredos. The originally constructed in the
cultural and commercial capital cathedral’s supreme treasure is 9th century, but subsequent
of Asturias, stands on a raised the Cámara Santa, a restored restorations have left the east
site on a fertile plain. The nearby 9th-century chapel containing window as the only surviving
coal mines have made it an statues of Christ and the apostles. Pre-Romanesque feature.
important industrial centre The chapel also houses many Sited behind the cathedral
since the 19th century. It retains works of 9th-century Asturian is the Museo Arqueológico,
some of the atmosphere of that housed in the old Benedictine
time, as described by Leopoldo monastery of San Vicente, with
Alas (“Clarín”) in his great novel its fine cloisters. It contains local
La Regenta (see p39). prehistoric, Romanesque and
In and around Oviedo are Pre-Romanesque treasures.
many Pre-Romanesque build- The Museo de Bellas Artes,
ings. This style flourished in the in Velarde Palace, has a good
8th–10th centuries and was range of Asturian and Spanish
confined to a small area of the paintings, such as Carreño’s
kingdom of Asturias, one of portrait of Carlos II (see p74)
the few enclaves of Spain and others by Greco, Goya,
not invaded by the Moors. Dalí, Miró and Picasso.
The nucleus of the medieval Two of the most magnificent
city is the stately Plaza Alfonso II, Cross of Angels in the treasury of Pre-Romanesque churches are
bordered by a number of Oviedo Cathedral on Mount Naranco, to the
Santa María del Naranco
This church, on Mount Naranco, was originally built as
a summer palace for Ramiro I in the 9th century. It is
one of the finest examples of Pre-Romanesque or
Asturian architecture, a style characterized by
the slender proportions of its buildings
and their original and graceful
ornamentation.
The Hall has an
unusually high
ceiling.















Vaultings of this
size were a technical
Arcaded achievement and not
galleries at both adopted throughout
ends of the building were Columns carved with Europe until the
designed to let in an enormous soqueado or rope effect, 11th century.
amount of light and were an were typical of the Pre-
architectural innovation. Exterior view of Santa
Romanesque style.
María del Naranco
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp562–3 and pp583–4

110-111_EW_Spain.indd 110 26/09/17 11:00 am

ASTURIAS AND C ANT ABRIA  111


9 Ribadesella
Asturias. * 5,800. £ @ n Paseo
Princesa Letizia, 985 86 00 38. ( Wed.
_ Descent of the Río Sella (first Sat
of Aug). ∑ ribadesella.es
This enchanting little seaside town
bestrides a broad estuary. On one
side is the lively old seaport full of
tapas bars below a clifftop church.
Across the estuary is a holiday
resort. A multicoloured flotilla of
kay aks arrives here from Arriondas
(upstream) in an international
regatta that is held every year
on the first Saturday in August.
On the edge of town is the
Cueva de Tito Bustillo. This cave
is rich in stalactites but is best
known for its many pre historic
drawings, which were discovered
in 1968, some dating from around
18,000 BC. These include red
and black pictures of stags and
horses. To protect the paintings,
only 360 visitors are allowed in
per day; tickets are given out
from 10am every day and should
Church overlooking the sea at Ribadesella be booked in advance. There is
a museum on the site.
north. Santa María del Naranco of Pre-Romanesque art. Its
has a large barrel-vaulted hall ceiling has vivid Asturian T Cueva de Tito Bustillo
on the main floor and arcaded frescoes, and by the portal are Ribadesella. Tel 985 18 58 60.
galleries at either end. Some of recesses where pilgrims slept. Open Mar–Oct: Wed–Sun (free Wed).
the intricate reliefs on the door The church in the Monasterio
jambs of the nearby San Miguel de Santa María next door is
de Lillo show acrobats and 13th-century Cistercian, with 0 Cangas de Onís
animal tamers in a circus. cloisters from the 16th century.
The early 9th-century church Asturias. * 6,300. @ n Avenida
of San Julián de los Prados Environs Covadonga 1, 985 84 80 05. ( Sun.
_ San Antonio (13 Jun), Cheese Festival
stands on the road leading To the north, the resort town (12 Oct). ∑ cangasdeonis.com
northeast out of Oviedo. The of Villaviciosa lies amid apple
largest of Spain’s surviving orchards. In nearby Amandi, Cangas de Onís, one of the
Pre-Romanesque churches, the hilltop Iglesia de San Juan gateways to the Picos de Europa
it is noted for the frescoes has a 13th-century portal and (see pp112–13), is where Pelayo,
which cover all of its interior. delicate carvings and friezes. the 8th-century Visigothic
nobleman and hero of the
E Museo Arqueológico Reconquest, set up his court.
Calle San Vicente 3. Tel 985 20 89 77. The town has a Romanesque
Open Wed–Sun. 7 bridge and the 8th-century
E Museo de Bellas Artes chapel of Santa Cruz.
Calle Santa Ana 1. Tel 985 21 30 61.
Open Tue–Sun. 7 Environs
About 3 km (2 miles) east in
Cardes is the Cueva del Buxu,
8 Valdediós which has engravings and rock-
drawings over 10,000 years old.
Asturias. * 150. n Monasterio de
Santa María, 985 89 23 24. Monastery Only 25 visitors are allowed
Open 11–11:45am & 1–1:45pm Tue, daily, and no visitors under 7.
11am–1pm & 4:30–6:30pm Wed–Sun.
T Cueva del Buxu
Set alone in a field near this Tel 608 17 54 67 (mobile). 8 Wed–
hamlet, the tiny 9th-century Iglesia de San Salvador de Valdediós in its Sun. & reservations essential; call
Iglesia de San Salvador is a jewel idyllic setting 3–5pm Wed–Sun (free Wed).




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112  NOR THERN SP AIN

q Parque Nacional de los Picos de Europa

These beautiful mountains were reputedly
christened the “Peaks of Europe” by returning
sailors for whom this was often the first sight
of their homeland. The range straddles three
regions – Asturias, Cantabria and Castilla y
León – and has diverse terrain. In some parts,
deep winding gorges cut through craggy rocks,
while elsewhere verdant valleys support
orchards and dairy farming. The celebrated
creamy blue cheese Cabrales (see p80) is made Covadonga
here. The Picos offer rock climbing and upland The Neo-Romanesque basilica, built
between 1877 and 1901, stands on
hiking as well as a profusion of flora and fauna. the site of Pelayo’s historic victory.
Tourism in the park is well organized.


Ribadesella
Cangas de Onis
Lago de la D
Ercina E
Together with S J
the nearby Lago I F Covadonga
Enol, this lake L J
lies on a wild A
limestone D L A G O
E E N O L
plateau above R O L A G O D E
L A E R C I N A
Covadonga and
below the peak D
of Peña Santa. Sella E
A R E
L
O
C • Cain
S
D E L
B
E
Y
N T A
O
S
A
G A R G
Posada de Valdeón •
Cares
J
Oseja de • •
Sajambre Puerto de
Panderruedas
Desfiladero de los Beyos J • Puerto de Pandetrave
This deep, narrow gorge with its high limestone cliffs winds •
spectacularly for 10 km (6 miles) through the mountains. Puerto del
Tracing the route of the Río Sella below, it carries the main Pontón
road from Cangas de Onís to Riaño. Riaño
KEY
1 Desfiladero del Río Cares is a of Naranjo de Bulnes and can now Key
deep gorge formed by the River be accessed by an underground
Cares in the heart of the Picos. funicular railway from Puente Major road
A dramatic footpath follows the Poncebos as well as by foot. Minor road
gorge, passing through tunnels 3 Naranjo de Bulnes, with its Footpath
and across high bridges up to tooth-like crest, is in the heart of National park boundary
1,000 m (3,280 ft) above the river. the massif. At 2,519 m (8,264 ft),
it is one of the highest summits
2 Bulnes, one of the remotest in the Picos de Europa.
villages in Spain, enjoys fine views
For keys to symbols see back flap
112-113_EW_Spain.indd 112 26/09/17 11:00 am

ASTURIAS AND C ANT ABRIA  113


VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
Practical Information
n Casa Dago, Avenida
Covadonga 43, Cangas de Onís,
985 84 86 14. Tel 942 73 66 10.
∑ infopicosdeeuropa.com
Fuente Dé cable car:
Open 10am–6pm daily.
Closed 1 & 6 Jan, 24, 25 & 31 Dec.
Transport
@ Oviedo to Cangas de Onís.

A dramatic view of the mountains of the Picos de Europa

0 kilometres 5
Pelayo the Warrior
0 miles 5
A statue of this Visigothic
nobleman who became king
of Asturias guards the basilica
Panes
• at Covadonga. It was close to
this site, in 722, that
San Vicente De
J Pelayo and a band of
Arenas de Cabrales La Barquera
J
• D D men – though vastly
out numbered –
E
E
are said to have
S
L
F
defeated a Moorish
A
I
army. The victory
L
H
A
Poncebos E inspired Christians
• R D E
in the north of
M
R O
I
D Spain to reconquer
A
Bulnes •
the peninsula
A R E (see pp58–9).
C • Cain Santa Maria The tomb of
de Lebeña • the warrior is
in a cave which
has become
N T A a shrine, also
A Deva containing a
Parador de J painted image
of the Virgin.
Fuente Dé Monasterio Potes
•
de Santo
Toribio de
Liébana Pelayo’s statue
J • Puerto de Pandetrave
Riaño •
Puerto de San Glorio
Fuente Dé Cable Car
The 753-m (2,470-ft) ascent from
Fuente Dé takes visitors up to a
wild rocky plateau pitted with
craters. From here there is a
spectacular panorama of the
Picos’ peaks and valleys.
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp562–3 and pp583–4
112-113_EW_Spain.indd 113 26/09/17 11:00 am

114  NOR THERN SP AIN


w Potes century, it became known
throughout Spain a century
Cantabria. * 1,300. n Plaza de la
Independencia s/n, 942 73 81 26. later when it received reput edly
( Mon. _ Ntra. Sra. de Valmayor the largest fragment of the True
(15 Aug), Santísima Cruz (14 Sep). Cross. An 8th century monk,
St Beatus of Liéb ana, wrote the
A small ancient town, with Commentary on the Apocalypse.
old balconied houses lining The restored Romanesque
the river, Potes is the main monastic buildings were rebuilt
centre of the eastern Picos de in the 1200s, and are now
Europa. It is situated in the occupied by Franciscan monks.
broad Valle de Liébana, whose
fertile soil yields prime crops of
walnuts, cherries and grapes. e Comillas
A potent spirit called orujo is Cantabria. * 2,200. n Plaza Joaquín
made in the town. The Torre del del Piélago 1, 942 72 25 91. ( Fri.
Infantado, in the main square, _ El Cristo (16 Jul). Palacio
is a defensive tower built in the Sobrellano: Open Apr–Oct: 9:30am–
15th century. 6:30pm daily (to 7:30pm mid-Jun–
mid-Sep); Nov–Mar: 9:30am–3:30pm
Statue of the Virgin, San Vicente Environs daily. & 8 (compulsory).
de la Barquera Between Potes and the coast
runs a gorge, the Desfiladero de This pretty resort is known for
Asturias and la Hermida. Halfway up it is its buildings by Catalán
Cantabria’s Fiestas Santa María de Lebeña, a Modernista architects (see
La Vijanera (first Sun of the 10th-century Mozarabic church. pp144–5). Antonio López y López,
year), Silió (Cantabria). This is West of Potes is the monas- the first Marquis of Comillas,
a costumed parade which tery church of Santo Toribio hired Joan Martorell to design
dates back to pre-Roman de Liébana, one of the most the Neo-Gothic Palacio Sobre-
times, and celebrates the revered spots in the Picos de llano (1881), now a museum.
triumph of good over evil. Europa. Founded in the 7th Comilla’s best-known
La Folía (second Sun after
Easter), San Vicente de la
Barquera (Cantabria). The statue
of the Virgen de la Barquera
is said to have arrived at San
Vicente in a boat with no sails,
oars or crew. Once a year, it is
put in a decorated fishing boat,
which sails at the head of a
procession to bless the sea.
Groups of young girls, called
picayos, stand on the shore
singing traditional songs. La
Folía usually takes place on the
second Sunday after Easter,
depending on local tides.
Fiesta del Pastor (25 Jul),
near Cangas de Onís (Asturias).
Regional dances are performed
on the shores of Lake Enol in the
Picos de Europa National Park.
Battle of the Flowers (last
Fri of Aug), Laredo (Cantabria).
Floats adorned with flowers are
paraded through this small
resort. A flower-throwing free-
for-all follows the procession.
Nuestra Señora de
Covadonga (8 Sep), Picos
de Europa (Asturias). Huge
crowds converge on the shrine
of Covadonga (see p112) to
pay homage to the patron
saint of Asturias.
Stone bridge and houses in the ancient town of Potes
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp562–3 and pp583–4


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Date 5th December 2012
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ASTURIAS AND C ANT ABRIA  115



















Surviving Classical columns among the ruins of the Roman town of Julióbriga, near Reinosa
monument is Gaudí’s (see p168) Carmona is an old, unspoil ed t Alto Campoo
El Capricho, now a restaurant. village approximately 20 km Cantabria. * 1,900. £ @ Reinosa.
It was designed from 1883 to (12 miles) to the northwest of n Estacioń de Montaña, 942 77 92
1889 and is a Mudéjar-inspired Bárcena Mayor. Its solid stone 23 (am only); Reinosa, 942 75 52 15.
fantasy with a minaret-like houses, with pantiled roofs and _ San Sebastián (20 Jan, Reinosa).
tower covered in green wooden balconies, are typically
and yellow tiles. Cantabrian (see Sited high in the Cantabrian
Another Mod ern- p30). Woodcarv- mountains, this winter resort lies
ista building is the ing, the traditional below the Pico de Tres Mares
Universidad craft of the region, (2,175 m/7,000 ft), the “Peak of the
Pontificia, on a hill- is still practised in Three Seas”, so called because the
top overlook ing this village, where rivers rising near it flow into the
the sea. It was men work outside Mediterr anean, the Atlantic and
designed by Joan their houses on a the Bay of Biscay. The Río Ebro, one
Martorell to plans variety of artifacts of Spain’s longest rivers, rises in this
by Domènech including bowls, area and its source, at Fontíbre, is a
i Montaner Wall tile on the façade fiddles, albarcas beauty spot. A road and a chair lift
(see p144). of El Capricho (clogs) and chairs. reach the summit of Tres Mares
The 13th-century for a breathtaking panorama of
Environs Palacio de los Mier, a manor the Picos de Europa and other
The fishing port of San Vicente house in the centre of the mountain chains. The resort is
de la Barquera has arcaded village, is being transformed small, with 22 pistes totalling
streets, ramparts and the Gothic into a hotel. 32 km (20 miles) in length, and
Romanesque church of Nuestra The extensive, wild beech has few facilities for après-ski.
Señora de los Ángeles. woods near Saja have been
designated a nature reserve. Environs
r Valle de Reinosa, some 26 km (16 miles)
to the east of Alto Campoo, is a
Cabuérniga handsome market town with old
stone houses. Further southeast
Cantabria. @ Bárcena Mayor.
n Ayuntamiento de Cabuerniga, is Retortillo, a hamlet where
942 70 60 01. the remains of Julióbriga, a
town built by the Romans as a
Two exceptionally picturesque bastion against the wild tribes
towns, notable for their superb of Cantabria, can be seen.
examples of rural architecture, The main road south out
draw visitors to the Cabuérniga of Reinosa leads to Cervatos,
Valley. A good road takes you where the former collegiate
to the once-remote Bárcena church has erotic carvings on
Mayor. Its cobbled streets are its façade. This novel device was
furnished with old lamps and meant to deter the villagers
filled with boutiques, and from pleasures of the flesh.
restaurants serving regional At Arroyuelo and Cadalso, to
dishes. The pretty houses have the southeast, are two churches
flower-covered balconies and Traditional balconied houses in built into rock faces in the 8th
cattle byres. Bárcena Mayor and 9th centuries.




114-115_EW_Spain.indd 115 26/09/17 11:00 am

116  NOR THERN SP AIN


housed in the restored
Convento de Regina Coeli,
east of the town centre, and
has a collection of painted
carvings of religious figures.
E Museo Diocesano
El Cruce. Tel 942 84 03 17.
Open Tue–Sun. &

i Puente Viesgo
Cantabria. * 2,800. @ n Calle
Manuel Pérez Mazo 2, 942 59 81 05
(town hall). _ La Perolá (20 Jan),
San Miguel (28–29 Sep).
One of the many paintings of bison at Altamira
This spa village is best known
y Cuevas de of 15th­ to 18th­century stone for El Monte Castillo, a complex
Altamira houses survives largely intact. of caves dotted around the
The town grew up around limestone hills above the town.
Cantabria. Tel 942 81 80 05. @ San­ a monastery, which was an Decor ated by prehistoric man,
tillana del Mar. Caves: Closed to the important pilgrimage centre, it is thought the late Palaeolithic
public, check website for details. the Romanesque La Colegiata. cave dwellers used the deep
Museum: Open 9:30am–6pm Tue–Sat The church houses the tomb interior as a sanctuary. They left
(to 8pm May–Oct), 9:30am–3pm Sun. of the local early medieval drawings of horses, bison and
Closed 1 & 6 Jan, 1 May, 28 Jun, 24, martyr St Juliana, and contains other animals, and some 50
25 & 31 Dec. & advance booking
advisable, 902 24 24 24 (free every a 17th­century painted reredos hand prints. The colours used
Sat from 2pm & Sun). 7 8 and a carved south door. In its to create the images were
∑ museodealtamira.mcu.es lovely cloisters, vivid bib lical made from minerals in the cave.
scenes have been sculpted
These caves contain on the capitals. Environs
some of the world’s On the town’s two main The lush Pas valley, to the
finest examples of cobbled streets there are southeast, is home to trans­
prehistoric art. The houses built by local humant dairy farmers, the
earliest engravings and noblemen. These have Pasiegos. In the main town of
drawings, discovered in either fine wooden Vega de Pas, you can buy two
1879, date back to galleries or iron balconies, Pasiego specialities – sobaos,
around 30,000 BC and coats of arms or sponge cakes, and quesadas,
(see p53). Public inlaid into their a sweet which is made from milk,
entry to the stone façades. In butter and eggs. In Villacarriedo
caves is very the past, farmers there is a handsome 18th­
restricted, but used the open century mansion, with two
the on­site Carved figure of Christ in the ground floors as Baroque façades of carved
museum contains Convento de Regina Coeli byres for stabling stone hiding a medieval tower.
a replica of the their cattle.
caves. Similar sites that remain In the enchanting Plaza T El Monte Castillo
open to the public are found at Mayor, in the centre of town, Puente Viesgo. Tel 942 59 84 25.
nearby Puente Viesgo, Ribadesella is a mansion­turned­parador. Open Wed–Sun (mid­Jun–mid­Sep:
(see p111) in Asturias and at The Museo Diocesano is Tue–Sun; Nov–Feb: am only). & ^
Nerja (see p489) in Andalucía.

u Santillana
del Mar
Cantabria. * 4,100. @ n Calle
Jesus Otero 20, 942 81 88 12. _ Santa
Juliana (28 Jun), San Roque (16 Aug).
∑ santillana-del-mar.com

Set just inland, belying its
name, this town is one of the
prettiest in Spain. Its ensemble Main façade of La Colegiata in Santillana del Mar
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp562–3 and pp583–4


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ASTURIAS AND C ANT ABRIA  117


E Museo de Bellas Artes a Castro Urdiales
Calle Rubio 6. Tel 942 20 31 20. Cantabria. * 32,000. @ n Parque
Open Tue–Sun. 8
Amestoy Avda de la Constitución s/n,
E Museo de Prehistoria 942 87 15 12. ( Thu. _ San Pelayo
y Arqueología (26 Jun), Coso Blanco (1st Fri of Jul), San
Calle Bailén s/n. Tel 942 20 Andrés (30 Nov). Iglesia: Open daily.
99 22. Open Tue–Sun. 7 8
Castro Urdiales, a busy fishing
E Museo Marítimo town and popular holiday resort,
Calle Severiano Ballesteros s/n. is built around a picturesque
Tel 942 27 49 62. Open daily.
harbour. Above the port, on
a high promontory, stands the
p Laredo pinkish Gothic Iglesia de Santa
María, as big as a cathedral.
Cantabria. * 11,500. £ n Alameda Beside it the restored castle,
Miramar, 942 61 10 96. _ Batalla de
The Palacio de la Magdalena Flores (last Fri of Aug), Carlos V’s last said to have been built by the
in Santander Knights Templar, has been
landing (3rd week in Sep). converted into a lighthouse.
o Santander Its long, sandy beach has Handsome glass-fronted houses,
made Laredo one of Cantabria’s or galerías, line the promenade.
Cantabria. * 172,500. ~ £ @ g
n Jardines de Pereda s/n, 942 20 30 most popular bathing resorts. The small town beach often
00. ( Mon–Thu. _ Santiago (25 Jul). The attractive Old Town has becomes crowded, but there
∑ turismodecantabria.com narrow streets with balconied are bigger ones to the west,
houses leading up to the such as the Playa de Ostende.
Cantabria’s capital, a busy port, 13th-century Iglesia de Santa
enjoys a splendid site near the María de la Asunción, with Environs
mouth of a deep bay. The town its Flemish altar and bronze Near the village of Ramales
centre is modern – after being lecterns. One of the highlights de la Victoria, 40 km (25 miles)
ravaged by fire in 1941 it was of the year in Laredo is the south, are prehistoric caves
reconstructed. The cathedral colourful Battle of the Flowers, containing etchings and
was rebuilt in Gothic style, but which takes place in August engravings, reached by a
retains its 12th-century crypt. (see p114). very steep mountain road.
The Museo de Bellas Artes
houses work by Goya as well
as other artists of the 19th and
20th centuries. The town’s
Museo de Prehistoria y
Arqueología displays finds
from caves at Altamira and
Puente Viesgo (see opposite),
such as Neolithic axe heads,
and Roman coins, pottery and
figurines. The Museo Marítimo
has rare whale skeletons and
350 species of local fish.
The town extends along the
coast around the Península de
la Magdalena, a headland on
which there is a park, a small
zoo and the Palacio de la
Magdalena – a summer
palace built for Alfonso XIII
in 1912, reflecting the resort’s
popularity at the time with
the Royal Family.
The seaside suburb of El
Sardinero, north of the head-
land, is a smart resort with a
long graceful beach, backed
by gardens, elegant cafés and
a majestic white casino. In July
and August El Sardinero plays
host to a major theatre and
music festival. Small boats moored in the harbour at Castro Urdiales




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NOR THERN SP AIN  119

THE BASQUE COUNTRY,

NAVARRA AND LA RIOJA


Vizcaya • Guipúzcoa • Álava • La Rioja • Navarra

The landscapes of the Basque Country, land of an ancient
people of controversial origin, range from green hills to
Atlantic beaches. Also enjoying a remarkable setting is the
former medieval kingdom of Navarra, which is partly Basque
and sits across the beautiful western Pyrenees. To the south,
the vineyards of La Rioja produce many of Spain’s finest wines.
The Basques are a race apart – they will known as Donostia. Euskara is also
not let you forget that theirs is a culture spoken in parts of Navarra, which is
different from any in Spain – and the counted as part of the wider (unofficial)
Basque regional government enjoys Basque Country. Many of its finest
considerable autonomy from Madrid. sights – the towns of Olite and Estella,
The Basque Country (Euskadi is the and the monastery of Leyre – date from
Basque name) is an important indus trial the Middle Ages, when Navarra was a
region blessed with spectacular land­ kingdom straddling the Pyrenees.
scapes. The Basques are great deep­sea Pamplona, its capital, is best known for
fishermen and fish plays a major role in its daredevil bullrunning fiesta of San
their imaginative cuisine, regarded by Fermines, which is held in July.
many as the best in Spain. As well as its vineyards and bode gas,
Unrelated to any other tongue, the La Rioja is a fertile region of vegetable
Basque language, Euskara, is widely gar dens. Among its many historic sights
used on signs and most towns have are the cathedral of Santo Domingo
two names; the fashionable resort of de la Calzada and the monasteries of
San Sebastián, for exam ple, is officially San Millán de la Cogolla and Yuso.

























Basque farmhouse near Gernika-Lumo in the Basque Country
Beautiful yellow fields of La Rioja in summertime



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120  NOR THERN SP AIN

Exploring the Basque
Country, Navarra and La Rioja

These green, hilly regions have diverse attractions.
The Pyrenees in Navarra offer skiing in winter and
climbing, caving and canoeing the rest of the year.
The cliffs of the Basque Country are broken by rocky
coves, rías, and wide bays with beaches of fine yellow
sand, interspersed with fishing villages. Inland, minor
roads wind through wooded hills, valleys and gorges,
past lonely castles and isolated homesteads. In
La Rioja, to the south, they cross vineyards,
passing villages and towns clustered round C O S T A V A S C A HONDARRIBIA
Bakio
venerable churches and monasteries. Plentzia Bermeo (FUENTERRABÍA)
Algorta Mungia Lekeitio SAN SEBASTIÁN
Areeta Irun
Santander GERNIKA- Cuevas de Ondárroa Zumaia (DONOSTIA) Biarritz
Portugalete LUMO Santimamiñe Deba Zarautz Benteria Bera (Vera)
BILBAO (BILBO) Markina-Xemein Hernani Lesaka Etxalar
DEL VALLE DE BIDASOA
Carranza Elgoibar Andoain Igantzi
Sodupe Eibar Vilabona LAS CINCO VILLAS
Balmaseda Arantza Arizkun
Llodio SANTUARIO Tolosa ELIZONDO
Artziniega Castillo- DE LOIOLA
Elejabeitia
P A Í S Bergara Leitza
V A S C O OÑATI Beasain Aribe Puerto de Ibañeta
Amurrio Ordizia Puerto de Belate
822m
Orduña Betelu Lekunberri RONCESVALLES 1092m Fôret Monte Ori
(ORREAGA) d'Iraty 2017m
Arantzazu
Berberana Altsasu Sierra de Aralar Irurtzun Pau
(Alsasua) Irati Ochagavia
TORRE PALACIO Etxarri
DE LOS VARONA VITORIA Salvatierra (Aranatz) VALLE DE RONCAL Isaba
Salinas de (GASTEIZ) PAMPLONA
Añana (IRUÑA) Güessa
La Puebla de Arganzón Treviño Puerto de Azazeta Monasterio N A V A R R A Aoiz Roncal
890m
de Iranzu
Miranda MONASTERIO
de Ebro Acedo ESTELLA Cirauqui DE LEYRE
(LIZARRA) PUENTE LA REINA Huesca
Iglesia de Santa Maria
Monasterio de Eunate Lumbier
Burgos HARO de Irache Artajona CASTILLO
Casalarreina LAGUARDIA Los Arcos Ega SANGÜESA DE JAVIER
Tafalla UJUÉ
SANTO DOMINGO Fuenmayor Sesma
DE LA CALZADA LOGROÑO OLITE
The scenic Río Cárdenas valley below the village of Lodosa Aragón
San Millán de la Cogolla in La Rioja Navarrete
NÁJERA Iregua Ausejo Peralta Arga MONASTERIO Carcastillo
SAN MILLÁN DE LA OLIVA
DE LA COGOLLA LA RIOJA El Villar
Key de Arnedo Calahorra
Motorway Sierra de la Demanda Torrecilla Arnedo Rincón de Soto
en Cameros
Motorway under construction Najerilla Arnedillo Autol B á r d e n a s
R e a l e s
Major road Sierra de Cameros ENCISO Alfaro Castejón
Minor road
Puerto de Piqueras Cintruénigo
Scenic route 1710m Cornago Fitero
Main railway Soria TUDELA
Minor railway 0 kilometres 25 Cervera del
Río Alhama
International border
0 miles 15 Monteagudo Cortes
Regional border Zaragoza,
Lleida
For keys to symbols see back flap
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BASQUE C OUNTR Y , NA V ARR A & LA RIOJA  121

Sights at a Glance
1 Bilbao (Bilbo) q Haro a Puente la Reina
2 Gernika-Lumo w Santo Domingo de la Calzada s Estella (Lizarra)
3 Costa Vasca e San Millán de la Cogolla d Pamplona (Iruña)
4 San Sebastián (Donostia) r Nájera f Las Cinco Villas del Valle
5 Hondarribia (Fuenterrabía) t Logroño de Bidasoa
6 Santuario de Loiola y Enciso g Elizondo
7 Oñati u Tudela h Roncesvalles (Orreaga)
8 Vitoria (Gasteiz) i Monasterio de La Oliva j Valle de Roncal
9 Torre Palacio de los Varona o Ujué k Monasterio de Leyre
0 Laguardia p Olite l Castillo de Javier
z Sangüesa

Bakio HONDARRIBIA Getting Around
Plentzia Bermeo (FUENTERRABÍA)
C O S T A V A S C A
The main road in the north is the A8 (E5). The
Algorta Mungia Lekeitio SAN SEBASTIÁN A68 AP68 (E804) runs southwards from Bilbao
Areeta Irun
Santander GERNIKA- Cuevas de Ondárroa Zumaia (DONOSTIA) Biarritz via Haro and follows the Ebro Valley. Motorway
Portugalete LUMO Santimamiñe Deba Zarautz Benteria Bera (Vera) spurs extend to Vitoria and Pamplona. The rail
BILBAO (BILBO) Markina-Xemein Hernani Lesaka Etxalar network connects the cities and the larger
DEL VALLE DE BIDASOA
Carranza Elgoibar Andoain Igantzi towns, and most towns are served by
Sodupe Eibar Vilabona LAS CINCO VILLAS coach. Bilbao has an inter national airport.
Balmaseda Arantza Arizkun In the Basque Country, signs are in both
Llodio SANTUARIO Tolosa ELIZONDO Basque and Castilian.
Artziniega Castillo- DE LOIOLA
Elejabeitia
P A Í S Bergara Leitza
Amurrio Ordizia Puerto de Belate
V A S C O OÑATI Beasain Aribe Puerto de Ibañeta
822m
Orduña Betelu Lekunberri RONCESVALLES 1092m Fôret Monte Ori
(ORREAGA) d'Iraty 2017m
Arantzazu
Berberana Altsasu Sierra de Aralar Irurtzun Pau
(Alsasua) Irati Ochagavia
TORRE PALACIO Etxarri
DE LOS VARONA VITORIA Salvatierra (Aranatz) VALLE DE RONCAL Isaba
Salinas de (GASTEIZ) PAMPLONA
Añana (IRUÑA) Güessa
La Puebla de Arganzón Treviño Puerto de Azazeta Monasterio N A V A R R A Aoiz Roncal
890m
de Iranzu
Miranda MONASTERIO
de Ebro Acedo ESTELLA Cirauqui DE LEYRE
(LIZARRA) PUENTE LA REINA Huesca
Iglesia de Santa Maria
Monasterio de Eunate Lumbier
Burgos HARO de Irache Artajona CASTILLO
Casalarreina LAGUARDIA Los Arcos Ega SANGÜESA DE JAVIER
Tafalla UJUÉ
SANTO DOMINGO Fuenmayor Sesma
DE LA CALZADA LOGROÑO OLITE
Lodosa Aragón
Navarrete
NÁJERA Iregua Ausejo Peralta Arga MONASTERIO Carcastillo
SAN MILLÁN DE LA OLIVA
DE LA COGOLLA LA RIOJA El Villar Calahorra
de Arnedo
Sierra de la Demanda Najerilla Sierra de Cameros ENCISO Arnedo Autol Alfaro Castejón B á r d e n a s
Torrecilla
Rincón de Soto
en Cameros
Arnedillo
R e a l e s
Puerto de Piqueras Cornago Cintruénigo
1710m Fitero
Soria TUDELA
Cervera del
Río Alhama
Monteagudo Cortes
Zaragoza,
Lleida The fashionable Playa de Ondarreta, one of
San Sebastián’s three beaches
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122  NOR THERN SP AIN


first extracted from deposits The Alhóndiga, a century-old
northwest of the city. Soon, wine warehouse, was converted
steelworks and chemical into a cultural centre in 2010.
factories became a major part It boasts design shops and
of the local landscape. In the last restaurants, a library, a fabulous
two decades, however, many of pool and a rooftop terrace.
the old shipyards and factories West of the city, a funicular
have been replaced by parks, railway ascends to the village
riverside walks, pavement cafés of La Reineta and a panorama
and striking new architecture. across the dockyards.
The city’s medieval heart, the
casco viejo, was built in the 14th E Museo Vasco
century. Here, amid alleys lively Plaza Miguel de Unamuno 4. Tel 94
with pintxos bars, is the arcaded 415 54 23. Open Wed–Mon. Closed
Plazuela de Santiago and the public hols. & (except Thu). 7
Buildings overlooking the Río Nervión Catedral Basílica de Santiago. E Museo de Bellas Artes
in Bilbao The Museo Vasco displays Plaza del Museo 2. Tel 94 439 60 60.
Basque art, folk artifacts and Open Wed–Mon. & (except Wed am
1 Bilbao photographs of Basque life. In & Sun pm). 8 7
the cloister is the Idol of Mikeldi,
Vizcaya. * 345,000. k £ @ g P Palacio de la Música y
n Plaza Ensanche 11, 944 79 57 60. an animal-like carving dating Congresos Euskalduna
_ Santiago (25 Jul), La Asunción from the 3rd to 2nd century BC. Avenida Abandoibarra 4. Tel 94 403
(15 Aug), Semana Grande (late Aug). In the newer town is the large 50 00. Open for concerts. & 8 7
∑ bilbao.net/bilbaoturismo Museo de Bellas Artes (Museum
of Fine Art), one of Spain’s best P Alhóndiga
Bilbao (Bilbo) is the centre of art museums. It displays art Plaza Arriquibar 4. Tel 94 401 40 14.
∑ azkunazentroa.eus
Basque industry. An important ranging from 12th-century
port and the largest Basque city, Basque and Catalan pieces
it is surrounded by high, bare to works by modern artists of
hills. Its suburbs spread 16 km international fame, including 2 Gernika-Lumo
(10 miles) along the Río Nervión Vasarely, Kokoschka, Bacon, Vizcaya. * 16,900. £ @ n Arte-
(Nerbioi) to its estuary. The river Delaunay and Léger. There are kalea 8, 94 625 58 92. _ Aniversario
between Las Arenas and the also paintings by Basque artists. del Bombardeo de Guernica (26 Apr),
fishing port of Portugalete is The jewel in the area’s San Roque (14–18 Aug). ∑ gernika-
crossed via the Puente Col gante, cultural crown is the Museo lumo.net
a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Guggenheim Bilbao (see
This iron transporter bridge, built pp124–5). The museum is part This little town is of great
in 1893, has a suspended cabin of a redevelopment of the city symbolic significance to the
for cars and passengers. On the which includes the expansion of Basques. For centuries, Basque
east bank of the estuary is its port and the metro system, leaders met in demo cratic
Santurtzi (Santurce), from where designed in a futu ristic style by assembly under an oak on a
ferries sail to the UK (see p627). Norman Foster. Another striking hillside here. On 26 April 1937
Bilbao has flourished as an building is the Palacio de la Gernika-Lumo (Guernica) was
industrial city since the mid- Música y Congresos Euskalduna, the target of the world’s first
19th century, when iron ore was designed to resemble a ship. saturation bombing raid, carried
out by Nazi aircraft at the
request of General Franco.
Picasso’s powerful painting (see
pp70–71) of this outrage can
be seen in Madrid (see p303).
The town has since been
rebuilt and is rather dull. But in
a garden, inside a pavilion and
closely guarded, is the 300-year-
old petrified trunk of the oak
tree, the Gernikako Arbola, or Oak
of Gernika, symbol of the ancient
roots of the Basque people.
Younger oaks, nurtured from
its acorns, have been planted
beside it. The Basque people
make visits to this ancient tree
as if on a pilgrimage. The Casa
Zuloaga’s Condesa Mathieu de Noailles (1913), Bilbao Museum of Fine Art de Juntas, nearby, is a former
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp563–4 and pp585–6


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BASQUE C OUNTR Y , NA V ARR A & LA RIOJA  123


























Basque fishermen depicted in the stained-glass ceiling of the Casa de Juntas in Gernika-Lumo
chapel where the parliament 3 Costa Vasca house. It passes Bermeo, a port
of the province of Vizcaya Vizcaya & Guipúzcoa. @ Bilbao. with a fishery museum, the Museo
reconvened in 1979, when the £ Bilbao. n Getxo, 94 491 08 00. del Pescador, and Mundaka, a
Basque provinces regained small surfing re sort. On the serene
their autonomy. In one room The Basque country’s 176 km Ría de Guernica there are two
a stained-glass ceiling depicts (110 miles) of coastline is heavily sandy beaches, Laida and Laga.
the Oak of Gernika with Basque indented: rugged cliffs alternate At the fishing port of Lekeitio,
citizens debating their rights. with inlets and coves, backed by old Basque houses line the
The Europa Park, next door, wooded hills. Some of the fishing seafront below the 15th-century
has peace sculptures by Henry vil lages are overdeveloped, but church of Santa María. One long
Moore and Eduardo Chillida. the scenery inland is attractive. beach, good for swimming,
There are good beaches north sweeps round the village of
Environs of Algorta (near Bilbao). Plentzia is Saturrarán and the old port
Five km (3 miles) northeast a pleasant estuary town with a of Ondarroa. The Lekeitio–
of Gernika, near Kortézubi marina. Eastwards on the coast is Ondarroa road is lined with pines.
(Cortézubi), are the Cuevas de Bakio, a large fishing village. Zumaia is a beach resort with
Santimamiñe. On the walls of Beyond it the BI3101, a dramatic an old quarter. In the Espacio
a small chamber are charcoal corniche road, winds high above Cultural Ignacio Zuloaga, the
drawings of animals made by the sea past the tiny island her mit- former home of the well-known
cave dwellers around 11,000 BC. age, San Juan de Gaztelugatxe, Basque painter who lived from
Discovered in 1917, the drawings and Matxitxaco, a headland light- 1870 to 1945, colour ful studies of
cannot be seen, but replicas are Basque rural and maritime life
projected on the walls at the are on display. Getaria, along the
entrance. For conservation coast, is spread steeply around a
reasons the caves are closed to fishing port, and has lively cafés
the public, but a 3D simulation in and the 14th-century Iglesia de
the nearby hermitage offers an San Salvador. Zarautz, once a
impressive virtual reproduction. fashionable resort, has sizable
Guided visits last 90 minutes and beaches and elegant mansions.
must be booked in advance.
E Museo del Pescador
P Casa de Juntas Plaza Torrontero 1. Tel 94 688 11 71.
Calle Allende Salazar. Tel 94 625 11 38. Open Tue–Sun. Closed public hols.
Open daily. Closed 1 & 6 Jan, 16 Aug, & (free last Thu of the month). 7
24, 25 & 31 Dec. 8 book ahead. 7
E Espacio Cultural
T Cuevas de Santimamiñe Ignacio Zuloaga
Kortézubi. Tel 944 65 16 57. Santiago Etxea 4, Zumaia. Tel 677 07
Open daily (Oct–Apr: Tue–Sun). Anglers on the quayside at Lekeitio, a port 84 45. Open Apr–Sep: 4–8pm Wed–
& 8 book ahead. on the Costa Vasca Sun; other times by appt. & 8




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124  NOR THERN SP AIN

Bilbao: Museo Guggenheim

The Museo Guggenheim Bilbao is the jewel in the city’s
cultural crown. The building itself is a star attraction: a mind-
boggling array of silvery curves by the American architect
Frank Gehry, which are alleged to resemble a ship or a
flower. The Guggenheim Bilbao’s collection represents an
intriguingly broad spectrum of modern and contemporary
art, and includes works by Abstract Impressionists such as
Willem de Kooning and Mark Rothko. The museum’s
programme combines temporary exhibitions with shows
from the permanent collections of the Guggenheim museums
in New York and Venice.
View from the City
Approaching along the Calle de
Iparraguirre, the Guggenheim
Bilbao stands out amid
traditional buildings.





























KEY
1 The Matter of Time, by 5 Roofscape is reminiscent of 0 Tall Tree and the Eye
sculptor, Richard Serra, was a ship, with prow-like points and by Anish Kapoor.
created in hot-rolled steel. metallic material.
It is over 30 m (100 ft) long. q Yves Klein’s Fire Fountain
6 Second-floor balcony consists of five fountains
2 Nerua is the museum’s emitting sharp bursts of fire.
Michelin-starred restaurant. 7 Puppy, by American artist
Jeff Koons, is a 13-m (43-ft) West w Louise Bourgeois’
3 The Puente de la Salve was Highland terrier with a coat of sculpture Maman is a 9-m
incor porated into the design flowers watered by an internal (30-ft) high tribute to the
of the building, which extends irrigation system. It has become artist’s mother.
underneath it. a favourite icon of the city. e Fujiko Nakaya’s F.O.G.
4 The tower, on the far side 8 Café sculpture is an atmospheric
of the bridge, was designed fog sculpture typical of this
to resemble a sail. It is not 9 Water garden beside Japanese artist’s work.
an exhibition space. the River Nervión
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp563–4 and pp585–6


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BASQUE C OUNTR Y , NA V ARR A & LA RIOJA  125


. Atrium VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
The space in which
visitors to the museum Practical Information
first find themselves is Avenida Abandoibarra 2. Tel 944
the extraordinary 35 90 00. Open 10am–8pm
60-m- (165-ft-) high Tue–Sun (daily Jul & Aug). Art
atrium. It serves as an After Dark: 10pm–1am one Fri
orien tation point and a month. & booking online
its height makes it a advisable, especially during high
dramatic setting season. ^ 7 8 = 0 -
for exhibiting ∑ guggenheim-bilbao.eus
large pieces.
Transport
 Moyua. @ 1, 10, 11, 13, 18,
27, 38, 48, 71.












Main
entrance
























. Titanium façade
Rarely used in build ings, titanium
is more usually used for air craft
parts. In total 60 tons were used,
but the layer is only 3 mm
(0.1 inches) thick.

Gallery 104
Dominated by Richard Serra’s The Matter of
Time, this gallery is the museum’s largest. The
fish motif, seen in the flowing shape, is one
of architect Frank Gehry’s favourites.




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126  NOR THERN SP AIN


Beaches
San Sebastián’s two principal
beaches follow the bay round
to Monte Igueldo. The Playa
de Ondarreta is the more
fashionable of the two, while the
Playa de la Concha is the larger.
Between them is the Palacio
Miramar, built in 1889 by the
Basque architect José Goicoa,
to designs by Selden Wornum,
a British architect. The palace,
built for Queen María Cristina,
established San Sebastián
as an aristocratic resort. The
gardens are open to the public.
At the water’s edge near the
Playa de Ondarreta is a striking
group of modern iron sculp-
San Sebastián’s Playa de Ondarreta, with its view across the bay tures, The Comb of the Winds
by Eduardo Chillida. A road
4 San Sebastián The Old Town and a funicular railway, built
San Sebastián’s fascinating Old in 1912, lead to the top of
Guipúzcoa. * 186,000.
~ Hon darribia (22 km). £ @ Town (Parte Vieja) is wedged Monte Igueldo, where there
n Alameda del Bulevard 8, 943 48 11 between the bay and the Río is a small amusement park.
66. ( Sun. _ San Sebastián (20 Jan); Urumea. The alleys, packed with To the east of the Playa de la
Semana Grande (week of 15 Aug). restaurants and tapas bars, are Concha is the surfer’s favourite,
∑ sansebastianturismo.com intensely animated at night. In Playa de Zurriola, with surf
the local fish market, stalls piled schools and shops, overlooked
Gloriously situated on a neat, high with delicacies testify to by the hill, Monte Ulía.
shell-shaped bay, San Sebastián the key role of fish in the town.
(Donostia) is the most elegant The heart of the Old Town is O Aquarium
and fashionable Spanish seaside the Plaza de la Constitución, a Plaza Carlos Blasco de Imaz 1.
resort. At either end of the bay handsome, arcaded square. The Tel 943 44 00 99. Open Easter–Jun &
is a tower-topped hill – Monte numbers on the balconies date Sep: 10am–8pm daily (to 9pm Sat &
Urgull in the east and Monte from when the square was used Sun); Jul–Aug: 10am–9pm daily; Oct–
Igueldo in the west. Between as a bullring – organizers sold a Easter: 10am–7pm (to 8pm Sat & Sun).
the two, in the mouth of the ticket for each numbered place. Closed 1 & 20 Jan, 25 Dec. & 8 7
∑ aquariumss.com
bay, lies a small island, the Isla Nearby are the impressively
de Santa Clara. reverent Basilica de Santa Maria This remodelled aquarium
San Sebastián became a smart and the 16th-century church of boasts a 360-degree
resort in the late 19th century. Iglesia de San Vicente. underwater tunnel, where
It still has many luxury shops Monte Urgull rises behind the visitors can view over 5,000
and one of Spain’s grandest Old Town. On the summit are a fish, including four species of
hotels, the María Cristina (see statue of Christ and the ruined shark. Tickets allow entry to
p564), but San Sebastián is now Castillo de Santa Cruz de la Mota, a Naval Museum, with exhibits
primarily a family resort. with old cannons. of Basque naval history.
The city is renowned for its
great summer arts festivals. The
theatre festival is held in May;
jazz festivals are held in July; a
classical music festival, in August;
and the San Sebastián Inter na-
tional Film Festival, in September.
The Semana Grande in August
is the city’s principal fiesta.
Cuisine plays a huge part in
local life: many Basque men
here belong to gastronomic
clubs where they gather to
cook, eat, drink and talk.
Women are invited to such
meetings, but they don’t take
part in the food preparation. The Comb of the Winds by Eduardo Chillida
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp563–4 and pp585–6


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BASQUE C OUNTR Y , NA V ARR A & LA RIOJA  127


paintings by Ignacio Zuloaga,
portraits by Vicente López
and master pieces by El Greco.
The chapel holds 11 murals by
the Catalan artist Josep Maria
Sert, depict ing Basque legends,
culture and the region’s
seafaring life.
Environs
Five kilometres (3 miles) east
of San Sebastián is Pasai
Donibane, a picturesque fishing
village consisting of a jumble of
houses built along one cobbled
Josep Maria Sert’s murals of Basque life in main street, which has some
the Museo de San Telmo good fish restaurants. Old balconied houses in the upper
Around 8 km (5 miles) town, Hondarribia
Kursaal south of San Sebastián is the
Avenida de Zurriola 1. Tel 943 00 30 00. interesting medieval town 5 Hondarribia
& 8 0 7 ∑ kursaal.org of Hernani, which has been Guipúzcoa. * 17,000. ~ @ n
These giant cubes stand out awarded the status of Cultural Arma Plaza 9, 943 64 36 77; Minatera,
as the most prominent feature Interest Site. The forests 9 Puerto Deportivo, 934 64 54 58.
on Zurriola beach, especially surrounding the town are _ La Kutxa Entrega (25 Jul), Alarde
when lit up at night. Designed dotted with prehistoric remains, (6–8 Sep). ∑ bidasoaturismo.com
by Rafael Moneo, the cubes including dolmens, megalithic
contain large auditoriums, monuments and burial mounds. Hondarribia (Fuenterrabía), the
for most of the year home historic town at the mouth of
to conferences and concerts. the Río Bidasoa, was attacked by
the French over many centuries.
E Museo de San Telmo The upper town is protected by
Plaza Zuloaga 1. Tel 943 48 15 80. 15th-century walls and entered
Open 10am–8pm Tue–Sun. Closed 1 via their original gateway, the
& 20 Jan, 25 Dec. & (free Tue). 87 handsome Puerta de Santa
This is a large museum in a María. They enclose alleys of
16th-century monastery old houses with carved eaves,
below Monte Urgull. In the balconies and coats of arms.
cloister is a collection of Basque The streets cluster round the
funerary columns dating from church of Nuestra Señora de la
the 15th–17th centuries. Asunción y del Manzano, with its
The museum also contains massive buttresses, tall Baroque
displays of furniture, tools and tower and, inside, a gold
other artifacts, and paintings reredos. At the town’s highest
by local Basque artists: 19th- point is the 10th-cen tury castle,
century works by Antonio The waterfront of the tiny fishing village now a parador (see p564).
Ortiz Echagüe, modern of Pasaia Donibane Hondarribia has seafront
cafés in La Marina, its lively
fishermen’s quarter. It is also
San Sebastián Film Festival a seaside resort, with beaches
This festival, founded in 1953, is one of the five stretching to the north.
leading European annual film festivals. It is held
in late September, drawing more than 200,000 Environs
spec tators. The special Donostia Prize is A hill road climbs westwards
awarded as a tribute to the career of a star to the shrine of the Virgin of
or director: winners have included Meryl Guadalupe. Further along this
Streep, Ian McKellen and Woody Allen. road are panoramic views of
Visiting celebrities have included the coast and the mountains.
Quentin Tarantino, Ethan Coen and
Bertrand Tavernier. Prizes also go From the Ermita de San Marcial,
to individual new films. An early which stands on a hill 9 km
winner was Hitchcock’s Vertigo. (6 miles) to the south, there
The festival’s website is are views of the Bidasoa plain
www.sansebastianfestival.com. straddling the border – the
Benicio Del Toro receiving an award French towns are neatly white,
the Spanish ones are greyer.




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128  NOR THERN SP AIN




















The Renaissance façade of the former Basque university in Oñati
6 Santuario de Manresa; his imprisonment by In the Plaza de los Fueros is
Loiola the Inquisition; and his pilgrim­ the Iglesia de San Miguel,
age to the Holy Land. The a Gothic church with a stone
Loiola, Guipúzcoa. Tel 943 02 50 00. basilica, built from 1681 to 1738, cloister in Gothic­Flemish
@ Open 10am–1pm, 3:30–7pm has a Churriguer esque dome and style. It contains the tomb of
(to 7:30pm in summer) daily. a circular nave with rich carvings. Bishop Zuázola of Ávila, the
∑ santuariodeloyola.org
founder of the university.
Saint Ignatius of Loiola (San Opposite is the Baroque
Ignacio de Loyola), founder of 7 Oñati town hall (ayunta miento).
the Jesuits, was born in the Guipúzcoa. * 11,300. @ n Calle
1490s in the Santa Casa (holy San Juan 14, 943 78 34 53. ( Sat. _ Environs
house), a stone manor near Corpus Christi (May/Jun), San Miguel A mountain road ascends 9 km
Azpeitia. In the 1600s it was (29 Sep–1 Oct). ∑ oñatiturismo.eus (6 miles) to the Santuario de
enclosed by the Basílica de Arantzazu, below the peak of
San Ignacio, and the rooms in This historic town in the Udana Aitzgorri. In 1469 it is believed
which the aristocratic Loiola Valley has a distinguished past. In a shepherd visualized the Virgin
family lived were converted into the First Carlist War, 1833–9 (see here. Over the door of the
chapels. The Chapel of the p67), it was a seat of the court church, built in the 1950s,
Conversion is where Ignatius, of Don Carlos, brother of King are sculptures of the apostles
as a young soldier, recovered Fernando VII and pretender to the by Jorge Oteiza.
from a war injury and had a throne. Its former university, built
profound religious experience. in about 1540, was for centuries P Universidad de Sancti Spiritus
A diorama depicts episodes in the only one in the Basque Avenida de la Universidad Vasca.
the saint’s life: dedicating his life Country. It has a Renaissance Tel 943 78 34 53. Open daily for
to Christ at the Monastery of façade, decorated with statues guided tours (phone Oñati tourist
Montserrat (see pp222–3); writing of saints, and an elegant patio. information in advance). &
his Spiritual Exercises in a cave at
The Founding of the Jesuit Order
The Society of Jesus was founded in
Rome in 1539 by Saint Ignatius and a
group of priests who were dedicated to
helping the poor. Pope Paul III soon
approved the order’s establishment,
with Ignatius as Superior General. The
order, which grew wealthy, vowed
military obedience to the pope and
became his most powerful weapon
against the Reformation. Today, there
are approximately 20,000 Jesuits
working, mainly in education, in
112 countries.

The imposing Santuario de Loiola, with its Saint Ignatius of Loiola
Churrigueresque cupola
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp563–4 and pp585–6


128-129_EW_Spain.indd 128 26/09/17 11:53 am

BASQUE C OUNTR Y , NA V ARR A & LA RIOJA  129

Basque Culture

The Basques may be Europe’s oldest race. Anthropologists think they could be descended
from Cro-Magnon people, who lived in the Pyrenees 40,000 years ago. The dolmens and
carved stones of their ancestors are evi dence of the Basques’ pagan roots.
Long isolated in their mountain valleys, the Basques preserved their unique language,
myths and art for millennia, almost un touched by other influences. Many families still
live in the isolated, chalet-style stone caseríos, or farm houses, built by their forebears.
Their music and high-bounding dances are unlike those of any other culture, and
their cuisine is varied and imaginative.
The fueros, or ancient Basque laws and rights were suppressed under General Franco,
but since the arrival of democracy in 1975 the Basques have had their own parliament
and police force, having won great autonomy over their own affairs.













The Basque Region The national identity is symbolized by the region’s flag:
La Ikurriña. The white cross symbolizes Christianity. The green
Areas of Basque culture
St Andrew’s Cross commemorates a battle won on his feast day.
Bertsolaris are bards. They
improvise witty, sometimes
humorous songs, whose
verses relate current events
or legends. Bertsolaris sing,
unaccompanied, to gather­
ings in public places, such
as bars and squares, often
in competition. This oral
tradition has preserved
Basque folklore, legends
and history. No texts were
written in Euskara (Basque)
until the 16th century.





Traditional sports are
highly respected in
Basque culture.
In pelota, teams hit
a ball at a wall,
then catch it with
a wicker scoop
or their hands.
Sports involving
strength, such
The Basque economy has always relied on as log­splitting
fishing and associated industries, such as ship­ and weight­
building and agriculture. In recent history, heavy lifting, are the
industries have made this region prosperous. most popular.





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130  NOR THERN SP AIN
BILBAO Aeropuerto
PLAZA DE 8 km (5 miles)
Vitoria City Centre SANTO DOMINGO
CALLE CORONACION
DE LA VIRGEN BLANCA
1 El Portalón
2 Museo de Arqueologia CALLE S. I. DE LOYOLA
y Naipes (BIBAT) S E M I N AR I O El Portalón CALLE BARRENKALE
C . D E L
3 Catedral de Santa María A L D A B E C A L L E PLAZA
DE
4 Palacio de Escoriaza-Esquibel CALLE CANTÓN STA. MARÍA BILBAO
PLAZUELA
5 Iglesia de San Miguel BADAIA DE ALDAVE Catedral de
CALLE CERCAS BAJAS Palacio de SA NTA MARÍ A CAL L L E PIN T O R E R Í A CALLE SAN VICENTE DE PAUL C
6 Plaza de la Virgen Blanca Santa María
Escoriaza-
Esquibel
0 metres 250 BIBAT CAL L E D E LA C UC H I L LER Í A
PLAZA DEL CALLE FUNDADORA DE LAS SIERVAS DE JESUS CALLE FRAYZACARIAS MARTINEZ CALLE S. ILDEFONSO A L L E
0 yards 250 CONDE DE C ALLE HER RE R IA
PEÑAFLORIDA CA LL E Z APAT ER ÍA C AL LE D E CO R R EIR A Artium
CALLE NU EVA DENTRO
V. GOICOCHEA
CALLE DE LA PROVINCIA San Miguel PLAZA DEL PLAZA DE CANTÓN S. FRANCISCO JAVIER D E F R A N C I A
PLAZA DE
VILLA SUSO
Estación de
Iglesia de
Autobuses
Casa del
Cordón
MACHETE
CALLE DEL PRADO PLAZA PLAZA DE FRANCISCO
ESPAÑA
CALLE SAN
DE LA VIRGEN Ayuntamiento
Catedral BLANCA C. PORTAL
de María Parlamento DE REY
Inmaculada Vasco CALLE
Parque de GRAL. ÁLAVA CALLE CALLE DE LOS FUE R OS OLAGUIBEL SAN SEBASTIÁN
La Florida PAMPLONA
For keys to symbols see back flap Museo de Armeria Estaciòn de RENFE POSTAS
LOGRONO
200m (220 yards)
8 Vitoria Duke of Wellington defeated Plateresque (see p29) patio.
the French. Around the plaza Around it is a charming area
Álava. * 244,000. ~ £ @
n Plaza de España 1, 945 16 15 98. are old houses with miradores of alleys linked by steep steps.
( Thu. _ Romería de San (glazed balconies). The city has two cathedrals.
Prudencio (27–28 Apr), Fiestas On the hillside above the The oldest is the Gothic Catedral
de la Virgen Blanca (4–9 Aug). plaza is the Gothic Iglesia de de Santa María, with a sculpted
∑ vitoria-gasteiz.org/turismo San Miguel. An outside niche west porch. Close by, in Calle
contains a statue of the Virgen Correría, a street of old houses,
Vitoria (Gasteiz), the seat of Blanca (White Virgin), Vitoria’s is El Portalón, a merchant’s
the Basque government, patron saint. A big festival (see house and hostel from the 15th
was founded on a hill – the p136) starts before her feast day, century. The building, which is
province’s highest point and the which is on 5 August. On the wall full of Basque country furniture
site of an ancient Basque town, of San Miguel facing the Plaza and art, is now a restaurant.
Gasteiz. Vitoria’s oldest part, del Machete there is a recess Among the city’s later archi-
El Campillo, was rebuilt in 1200 with a replica of the machete tectural gems are an arcaded
after a fire. The city later grew on which the city’s rulers swore street, Los Arquillos, and the
rich on the iron and wool trades. to uphold the laws or be slain. adjoining Plaza de España, also
The old town focuses on the The Old Town has several arcaded. They were built in the
Plaza de la Virgen Blanca, with its Renaissance palaces, including late 18th century to link the Old
monument to a battle fought the 16th-century Palacio de Town with the new quarter then
nearby in 1813, when the British Escoriaza-Esquibel, with its being built. South of the old town
is the Neo-Gothic Catedral Nueva
de María Inmaculada, begun in
1907 and finished in 1973.
E Artium
Calle de Francia 24. Tel 945 20 90 00.
Open Tue–Sun. &7 ∑ artium.org
Artium, the Basque Museum
of Contemporary Art, occupies
a striking white building and
contains one of Spain’s largest
collections of modern and
contemporary art. The focus
is mainly on Spanish artists like
The quiet Plaza de España in the centre of Vitoria Dalí, Miró, Tàpies and Chillida.
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp563–4 and pp585–6
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E Museo de Armería Environs
Paseo Fray Francisco 3. Tel 945 18 On the A2622 Pobes–Tuesta
19 25. Open Tue–Sun. 8 phone 945 road are the Salinas de Añana, a
18 19 18 for guided tours. 7 group of saltpans fed by mineral
The weapons here range from springs. The nearby village of
prehistoric axes to 20th-century Tuesta boasts a Romanesque
pistols. Medieval armour and an church. Inside are capitals
exhibit on the 1813 battle of carved with historical scenes,
Vitoria are also on display. and a medieval wood sculpture
of St Sebastián.
E Museo de Arte Sacro
Catedral Nueva de María Inmaculada,
Calle Monseñor Cadena y Eleta s/n. 0 Laguardia
Tel 945 15 06 31. Open 10am–2pm,
4–6:30pm Tue–Fri, 10am–2pm Sat, Álava. * 1,500. n Calle Mayor 52,
11am–2pm Sun & public hols. 945 60 08 45. ( Tue. _ San Juan
8 call ahead. 7 and San Pedro (23–29 Jun).
The design of this museum is This little wine town is the
The Gothic west door of Vitoria’s Catedral considerate to the surrounding capital of La Rioja Alavesa, a
de Santa María cathedral. Exhibits of religious part of southern Álava prov ince
art are displayed in sections where Rioja wines (see pp82–3)
E Museo de Arqueología y related to their medium. have been produced for
Naipes (BIBAT) centuries. It is a fertile, vine-
Palacio de Bendaña, C/ Cuchillería 54. clad plain, sheltered by high
Tel 945 20 37 00. Open Tue–Sun. 7 9 Torre Palacio de hills to the north. There are
Vitoria’s archaeology museum is los Varona fine panor amic views from
set in a stunning purpose-built Villanañe, Álava. Tel 945 35 30 40. the road that climbs up to the
edifice and features 1,500 pieces, Open 11am–2pm, 4–7pm Tue–Sat, Herrera pass. Laguardia is a
including prehistory artifacts 11am–2pm Sun (winter: Sat & Sun medieval hill town, its encircling
and Roman sculptures found at only). & 8 ramparts, towers and fortified
Álava. Visitors can experience gateways vis ible from afar.
multimedia projections and The small town of Villanañe Along its steep, narrow
sound effects. hosts a beauti ful example of cobbled streets there are
The grandson of Heraclio medieval civil architecture, the many bodegas (wine cellars),
Fournier, who founded a play- best-preserved 14th-century offering wine tastings and
ing cards factory in Vitoria in fortified military building in tours throughout the year. It is
1868, also displays his collection the region – now a museum usually necessary to make a
of more than 6,000 items in this displaying original furniture. booking in advance. The Gothic
museum. The oldest exhibits are The upper rooms are decor ated Iglesia de Santa María de los
late 14th-century Italian cards. with colourful 17th-century Reyes has an austere façade
Among the many sets of tarot wallpaper, while some of the and a richly embellished inner
cards are some designed by floors are made with traditional portal that has retained its
Salvador Dalí in the 1980s. Manisse porcelain tiles. original colouring.





















Vineyards near Laguardia, capital of La Rioja Alavesa, a wine-producing region since the Middle Ages




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132  NOR THERN SP AIN

q Haro
La Rioja. * 11,300. £ @ n Plaza
de la Paz, 941 30 35 80. ( Tue & Sat.
_ Wine Battle (29 Jun), San Juan,
San Felices, San Pedro (24–29 Jun),
Virgen de la Vega (8 Sep).
∑ haroturismo.org
A graceful town on the Río
Ebro, Haro has a lively old
quarter with wine taverns
and mansions. It is crowned
by the hilltop Iglesia de Santo
Tomás, a Gothic church with
a Plateresque (see p29) portal.
Haro is the centre for the
vineyards and bodegas of the
Rioja Alta wine region, which
is higher and cooler than the
Rioja Baja (see pp82–3). The clay
soil and the climate – Haro is
sheltered by a sierra to the
north – create the con ditions
in which the famous regional
wines are produced. Many
bodegas run tours and tastings.
To join one, you need to book
ahead at the bodega. There may
be a small charge. The charming
cafés in the Old Town offer local
wines and tapas at low prices
and a convivial atmosphere.
A wine-throwing orgy is Tomb of St Dominic in the cathedral of Santo Domingo de la Calzada
the climax of the area’s fiesta
(see p136) held every June. w Santo Domingo are recorded in carvings on
de la Calzada his tomb in the town’s part-
Romanesque, part-Gothic
La Rioja. * 6,300. @ n Calle cathedral, and in paintings
Mayor 33, 941 34 12 38. ( Sat. on the wall of the choir. The
_ Fiestas del Santo (25 Apr–15 May),
Día del Patron (12 May). most obvious and bizarre
record is a sumptuously
This town on the Road to dec orated cage set in a
Santiago de Compostela (see wall in which, for centuries,
pp86–7) is named after the a live cock and hen have
11th-century saint who been kept. The cathedral has
built bridges and roads a carved walnut reredos at
(calzadas) to help pilgrims. the high altar, the last work,
Santo Domingo also founded in 1541, of the artist Damià
a hospital, which now Forment. The restored
Rows of Rioja vines on the rolling hills serves as a parador (see p564). 14th-century ramparts of the
near Haro Miracles performed by the saint town are also worth seeing.

The Cock and Hen of St Dominic
A live cock and hen are kept in the cathedral of Santo
Domingo de la Calzada as a tribute to the saint’s miraculous
life-giving powers. Centuries ago, it is said, a German
pilgrim refused the advances of a local girl, who denounced
him as a thief. He was hanged as a consequence, but later
his parents found him alive on the gallows. They rushed to
a judge, who said, dismissively, “Nonsense, he’s no more
alive than this roast chicken on my plate”. Whereupon,
the chicken stood up on the plate and crowed. The cock and hen in their decorated cage

For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp563–4 and pp585–6


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e San Millán de pleasant old quar ter on the Río
la Cogolla Ebro is the Gothic cathedral,
with twin towers. Above the
La Rioja. * 240. @ from Logroño. south portal of the nearby
n Monasterio de Yuso (open Tue– Iglesia de Santiago el Real, which
Sun), Portería de Yuso, Piso de Abajo, hous es an image of the patron
941 37 30 49; Monasterio de Suso, saint Our Lady of Hope, is an
941 37 30 82 (book ahead). &
8 compulsory. _ Traslación de equestrian statue of St James as
las Reliquias (26 Sep), San Millán (12 Moorslayer (see p59).
Nov). ∑ monasteriodeyuso.org
Environs
This village grew up around About 50 km (30 miles) south
two monasteries. On a hillside of Logroño, the N111 winds
above the village is the through the dramatic Iregua
Monasterio de San Millán de Valley, through tunnels, to the
Suso. It was built in the 10th Sierra de Cameros.
century on the site of a com- Cloister of the Monasterio de Santa María
munity founded by St Emilian, la Real, Nájera
a shepherd hermit, in 537. The
church, hollowed out of pink r Nájera
sandstone, has Romanesque La Rioja. * 8,140. £ n Plaza de
and Mozarabic features. It San Miguel 10, 941 36 00 41. ( Thu.
contains the carved alabaster _ San Prudencio (28 Apr), Santa
tomb of St Emiliano. María la Real (16–19 Sep).
Below it is the Monasterio de
San Millán de Yuso, built between The Old Town of Nájera, west
the 16th and 18th centuries. of Logroño, was the capital of
The part-Renaissance church La Rioja and Navarra until 1076,
has Baroque golden doors and when La Rioja was incorporated
a Rococo sacristy with 17th- into Castile. The royal families
century paintings. of Navarra, León and Castile are
In the treasury there is a collec- buried in the Monasterio de
tion of ivory plaques. They were Santa María la Real. It was The ornate Baroque west door of
once part of two 11th-century founded in the 11th century Logroño Cathedral
jewelled reli quaries, which beside a sand stone cliff where a
were plundered by French statue of the Virgin was found in
troops in 1813. a cave. A 13th-century Madonna y Enciso
Medieval manuscripts are can be seen in the cave, beneath La Rioja. * 180. @ from Logroño.
also displayed in the treasury. the carved choir stalls of the n Plaza Mayor, 941 39 60 05.
Among them is a facsimile of 15th-century church. _ San Roque (16 Aug).
one of the earliest known texts The carved tomb of Blanca of
in Castilian Romance (see p38). Navarra, wife of Sancho III, is the Near this remote hill village
It is a commentary by a 10th- finest of many royal sarcophagi. west of Calahorra is Spain’s
century Suso monk on a work “Jurassic Park”. Signposts
by San Cesáreo de Arles, the R Monasterio de Santa point to the huellas de dino­
Glosas Emilianenses. María la Real saurios (dinosaur foot prints).
Plaza Santa María 1, Nájera. Embedded in rocks over-
Tel 941 36 10 83. Open Tue–Sun. hanging a stream are the
∑ santamarialareal.net & prints of many giant, three-toed
feet, up to 30 cm (1 ft) long.
They were made around
t Logroño 150 million years ago, when
dinosaurs moved between
La Rioja. * 151,000. £ @ n
Escuelas Trevijano, C/ Portales 50, 941 the marshes of the Ebro Valley,
29 12 60. _ San Bernabé (11 Jun), San at that time a sea, and these
Mateo (21 Sep). ∑ lariojaturismo.com hills. Prints can also be seen at
other locations in the area.
The capital of La Rioja is a tidy,
modern city of wide boule- Environs
vards and smart shops. It is the Arnedillo, 10 km (6 miles) to
commercial centre of a fertile the north, is a spa with thermal
plain where quality vegetables baths once used by Fernando VI.
The Monasterio de San Millán de Yuso in are produced, in addition to In Autol, to the east, there are
the Cárdenas Valley Rioja wines. In Logroño’s two unusual limestone peaks.




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134  NOR THERN SP AIN


It is Early Gothic, with a carved The serene cloister, dating from
portal depicting the Last the 14th and 15th centuries,
Judgment. There is a Roman- adjoins a 12th-century chapter-
esque cloister, and beside the house. The church also has a
cathedral sits a 9th-century 17th-century tower. Today, the
chapel that is thought to have monks survive by selling local
once been a synagogue. honey and cheese, their own
wine, and by accepting paying
Environs guests (see p561).
To the north is the Bárdenas
Reales, an arid area of lime stone
cliffs and crags. About 20 km o Ujué
(12 miles) west of Tudela is Navarra. * 178. n Plaza Municipal,
the spa town of Fitero, with the 948 73 90 23. _ Virgen de Ujué
12th-century Monasterio de (Sun after 25 April). ∑ ujue.info
Santa María.
The intricately carved portal of An unspoiled hill village, Ujué
Tudela Cathedral commands a high spur at the end
i Monasterio de of a winding road. It has quaint
u Tudela La Oliva façades, cobbled alleys and steep
steps. The impressive and austere
Navarra. * 35,200. £ @ Carcastillo, Navarra. Tel 948 72 50 06.
n Plaza Fueros 5, 948 84 80 58. @ from Pamplona. Open daily. & Iglesia de Santa María is in Gothic
( Sat. _ Santa Ana (26–30 Jul). ∑ monasteriodelaoliva.org style, with a Romanesque
chancel and an exterior lookout
Navarra’s second city is the great French Cistercian monks built gallery. The ruined fortifications
commercial centre of the vast this small monastery on a around the church offer views of
agricultural lands of the Ebro remote plain in the 1100s. The the Pyrenees.
Valley in Navarra, the Ribera. church is simple but adorned On the Sunday after 25 April,
Much of Tudela consists of with rose windows. pilgrims in black capes visit
modern developments, but its the Virgin of Ujué, whose
origins are ancient. Spanning Romanesque image is
the Ebro is a 13th-century displayed in the church.
bridge with 17 irregular arches.
The Old Town has two well-
preserved Jewish districts. p Olite
The Plaza de los Fueros is old Navarra. * 3,900. £ @ n Plaza
Tudela’s main square. It is de Teobaldos 4, 948 74 17 03.
surrounded by houses with ( Wed. _ Medieval Markets
wrought-iron balconies. On (late Aug), Exaltación de la Santa Cruz
some of their façades are paint- (13–19 Sep). ∑ olite.es
ings of bullfights, a re minder
that the plaza was formerly The historic town of Olite was
used as a bullring. founded by the Romans and
The cathedral, begun in 1194, later chosen as a royal resi dence
exemplifies the religious tolera- by the kings of Navarra. Parts
tion under which Tudela was One of the cloisters in the Monasterio of the town’s old walls can be
governed after the Reconquest. de La Oliva seen. They enclose a delightful

The Kingdom of Navarra
Navarra emerged as an independent Christian kingdom
in the 10th century, after Sancho I Garcés became king of
Pamplona. Sancho III the Great expanded the kingdom,
and at his death, in 1035, Navarra stretched all the way
from Ribagorza in Aragón to Valladolid. Sancho VI the Wise,
who reigned 1150–94, recognized the inde pendent rights
(fueros) of many towns. In 1234, Navarra passed by marriage
to a line of French rulers. One, Carlos III, the Noble, built
Olite Castle. His grandson, Carlos de Viana, wrote The
Chronicle of the Kings of Navarra in 1455. In 1512 Navarra
was annexed by Fernando II of Castile, as part of united
Spain, but it kept its own laws and currency until the 1800s.
Prince Carlos de Viana, Carlos III’s grandson

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BASQUE C OUNTR Y , NA V ARR A & LA RIOJA  135


jumble of steep, nar row streets
and little squares, churches and
the Monasterio de Santa Clara,
begun in the 13th century. The
houses along the Rúa Cerco de
Fuera and the Rúa Mayor were
built between the 16th and
18th centuries.
The castle, the Palacio Real
de Olite, was built in the early
15th century by Carlos III, and
has earned Olite its nickname
“the Gothic town”. It was heavily
fortified, but was brilliantly
decorated inside by Mudéjar
artists with azulejos (ceramic
tiles) and marquetry ceilings.
The walkways were planted with
vines and orange trees, and there
was an aviary and a lions’ den.
During the War of Indepen-
dence (see pp66–7) the castle
was burned to prevent it fall ing
into French hands. Since 1937,
however, it has been restored to a
semblance of its former glory. Part
of it houses a parador (see p564).
Today, the castle is a com plex
of courtyards, passages, large
halls, royal chambers, battle-
ments and turrets. From the
“windy tower”, monarchs
could watch tournaments. The five-arched, medieval pilgrims’ bridge at Puente la Reina
Adjoining the castle is a
13th-century former royal chapel, a Puente la Reina sorrowful Christ with arms
the Iglesia de Santa María, with Navarra. * 2,800. n Puente de los upraised, which is said to have
its richly carved Gothic portal. Peregrinos 1, 948 34 13 01 (closed Jan & been a gift from a German
Olite is in the Navarra wine Feb). ( Sat. _ Santiago (24–30 Jul). pilgrim in the 14th century.
region (see pp82–3) and the
town has several bodegas. Few towns along Environs
the Road to Isolated in the
+ Palacio Real de Olite Santiago de fields about 5 km
Plaza de Carlos III. Tel 948 74 00 35. Compostela (see (3 miles) to the east
Open daily. & 8 pp86–7) evoke the past is the 12th-century
as vividly as Puente la Iglesia de Santa María
Reina. The town takes its de Eunate. This octagonal
name from the graceful, Romanesque church may
humpbacked pedestrian once have been a cem-
bridge over the Río Arga. etery church for pilgrims,
The bridge was built for as human bones have been
pil grims during the 11th unearthed here. Pil grims
century by royal command. would shelter beneath the
On Puente la Reina’s nar row church’s external arcade. West
main street is the Iglesia of Puente la Reina is the show-
de Santiago, which has a piece hill village of
gilded statue by the Distinctive crucifix in Cirauqui. It is also
west door showing the Puente la Reina charming, if rather
saint as a pilgrim. On the over-restored. Chic
edge of town is the Iglesia del little balconied houses line
Crucifijo, another pilgrim church tortuously twisting alleys linked
which was built in the 12th by steps. The Iglesia de San
century by the Knights Templar. Román, built in the 13th century
The battlements and towers of the Palacio Con tained within the church is on top of the hill, has a sculpted
Real de Olite a Y-shaped wooden crucifix of a west door.




134-135_EW_Spain.indd 135 26/09/17 11:00 am

136  NOR THERN SP AIN


Environs
Basque Country, The Monasterio de Nuestra
Navarra and La Señora de Irache, 3 km (2 miles)
Rioja’s Fiestas southwest of Estella, was a
Benedictine monastery which
Los Sanfermines (6–14 Jul), shel tered pilgrims on their way
Pamplona (Navarra). to Santiago. The church is mainly
In the famous encierro Transitional Gothic in style, but it
(bullrunning) six bulls are has Romanesque apses and a
released at 8am each cloister in Plateresque style. It is
morning to run from their capped by a remarkable dome.
corral through the narrow, A bodega next to the mon­
cobbled streets of the Old astery provides pilgrims with
Town. On the last night of
this week­long, nonstop wine from a tap in a wall.
festival, crowds with candles A small road branches off the
sing Basque songs in the NA120 north of Estella and leads
main square. The event to the Monasterio de Iranzu,
gained worldwide fame Pilgrims drinking from the wine tap near built in the 12th–14th century.
after Ernest Hemingway the monastery at Irache The auster ity of its church and
described it in his novel, clois ters is typically Cistercian.
published in 1926, The Sun s Estella The Lizarraga Pass, further
Also Rises. up the NA120, offers views
Navarra. * 13,600. @ n Calle de
San Nicolás 1, 948 55 63 01. ( Thu. of attractive beech woods.
_ San Andrés (first week in Aug).
∑ turismo.navarra.es
d Pamplona
In the Middle Ages Estella (Lizarra) Navarra. * 195,600. ~ £ @
was the centre of the royal court n Calle San Saturnino 2, 948 42
of Navarra and a major stopping 07 00. _ Sanfermines (6–14 Jul),
point on the pilgrims’ Road San Saturnino (29 Nov).
to Santiago de Compostela ∑ turismodepamplona.es
(see pp86–7). The town was a
stronghold of the Carlists (see p67) The old fortress city of Pamplona
in the 19th century. A memorial (Iruña) is said to have been
rally is held here on the first founded by the Roman general
Sunday of May every year. Pompey. In the 9th century it
The most important monu­ became the capital of Navarra.
ments in Estella are sited on the This fairly busy city explodes into
Reveller pouring wine over himself at edge of town, across the bridge even more life in July during
Haro’s Wine Battle over the Río Ega. Steps climb the fiesta of Los Sanfermines,
Wine Battle (29 Jun), steeply from the arcaded Plaza with its daredevil bullrunning.
Haro (La Rioja). People de San Martín to the re markable From the old city walls
dressed in white clothes Iglesia de San Pedro de la Rúa, (murallas) you can get a good
squirt each other with built on top of a cliff from the overview of Pamplona. The nearby
wine from leather drinking 12th to 14th century. It features cathedral, which is built in ochre­
bottles in the capital of the a Cistercian Mudéjar­influenced, coloured stone, looks down on a
Rioja Alta wine region. sculpted doorway. The carved
Danza de los Zancos (22 Jul capitals are all that now remain
and last Sat of Sep), Anguiano of the Romanesque cloister,
(La Rioja). Dancers on stilts, which was destroyed when a
wearing ornate waistcoats castle overlooking the church
and yellow skirts, hurtle down was blown up in 1592. The
the stepped alley from the Palacio de los Reyes de Navarra
church to the main square. (now a museum), on the other
La Virgen Blanca (5 Aug), side of the Plaza de San Martín,
Vitoria (Álava). A dummy
holding an umbrella (the is a rare example of civil Roman­
celedón) is lowered from esque architecture.
San Miguel church to a In the town centre, on Plaza
house below – from which de los Fueros, Iglesia de San Juan
a man in similar dress Bautista has a Roman esque
emerges. The mayor fires a porch. The north portal of the
rocket and the crowds in the Iglesia de San Miguel has
square light cigars. Romanesque carvings of St Stone tracery in the elegant cloister of
Michael slaying a dragon. Pamplona cathedral
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp563–4 and pp585–6


136-137_EW_Spain.indd 136 26/09/17 11:53 am

BASQUE C OUNTR Y , NA V ARR A & LA RIOJA  137


Saturnino, built on the site
where St Saturninus is said
to have baptized some
40,000 pagan townspeople,
and the Baroque town hall
(ayuntamiento).
Beneath the old town wall,
in a 16th-century hospital with
a Plateresque doorway, is the
Museo de Navarra. This is a
The impressive Neo-Classical façade of the Palacio del Gobierno de Navarra museum of regional archae-
ology, history and art. Exhibits
loop in the Río Arga. It was West of the cathedral is the include Roman mosaics and an
built on the foundations of its Old Town, cut through with 11th-century, Islam-inspired
12th-century predecessor, and is many alleys. The Neo-Classical ivory casket. There are murals
mainly Gothic in style, with twin Palacio del Gobierno de painted during the 14th–16th
towers and an 18th-century Navarra lies in the Plaza del centuries, a portrait by Goya,
façade. Inside there are lovely Castillo and is the seat of the and a collection of paintings
choir stalls and the alabaster tomb Navarrese govern ment (not by Basque artists.
of Carlos III and Queen Leonor. open to the public). Outside, To the southeast is the city’s
The southern entrance to the a statue of 1903 shows a massive 16th-century citadel,
cloister is the carved, medieval symbolic woman upholding the erected in Felipe II’s reign. It is
Puerta de la Preciosa. The cathe- fueros (historic laws) of Navarra designed with five bastions in
dral priests would gather here (see p134). North of the palace a star shape. Beyond it are the
to sing an antiphon (hymn) to is the medieval Iglesia de San spacious boulevards of the new
La Preciosa (Precious Virgin) town, and also the university’s
before the night service. green campus.
The Museo Diocesano
in the cathedral’s 14th- P Palacio de Navarra
century kitchen and Avenida Carlos III 2.
refectory displays Tel 848 42 71 27. Open by
Gothic altarpieces, appointment. 7
poly chrome wood E Museo de Navarra
statues from all over Navarra, Cuesta de Santo Domingo s/n.
and a French 13th-century Sculpture in Pamplona Tel 848 42 64 92.
reliquary of the Holy Sepulchre. depicting the encierro Open Tue–Sun. & 7

Pamplona City Centre
1 Museo de Navarra City Walls
2 City walls Estación de RENFE Parque y VERGEL
3 Cathedral 900m (980 yards) Puente de Corralillos Palacio Conv. de las
de Santo
Rochapea
Domingo
VITORIA,
4 Town Hall SAN SEBASTIAN Museo del Virrey Carmelitas Parque
de la
Descalzas
Santo
5 Iglesia de San Saturnino Iglesia de de Navarra Domingo PA L A C I O C ARME N Tejería
D E S CALZOS
6 Palacio de Navarra las Carmelitas C. JARAUTA C. JARAUTA Town Hall
Descalzas
(Ayuntamiento)
Ant. Casa MERCADERES CURIA Cathedral OB IS P O B AR B A Z ÁN BA J AD A DE LAB R I T
Capellanes CALLE MAYOR CO MPAÑÍ A C A L L E D O R M I TA R E L L A
Palacio de Iglesia CALDERERÍA
Iglesia de Ezpeleta de San CHAPITELA BAJADA DE JAVIER Arga
0 metres 250 S. Lorenzo PLAZA DE Saturnino POZO BLANCO M E RCED Arzobispal
S. FRANCISCO Palacio
0 yards 250 CALLE DE Z A PAT E R ÍA PLAZA CALLE DE LA ESTAFETA S. AGUSTÍN
Pal. de los DEL
Vasallo S . N I COL Á S CASTILLO PA S EO Parque de la
TACONERA
S. Nicolás Monumento Palacio D E H EMI NG WAY Media Luna
a los Fueros
PASEO SARASATE
GRAL. CHINCHILLA VÍNCULO San Ignacio CORTES DE de Navarra TOROS
PLAZA
Basílica de
DE
C. DE NAVAS DE TOLOSA
PLAZA
NAVARRA
C AL L E D E EM IL IO AR RIE TA
DEL
AV
CAL L E
Key AVENIDA DEL Estación de Y MIRANDA CALLE YANGUAS EL MAYOR C. SAN IGNACIO RONCESVALLES ENIDA CARLOS III AMAYA OLITE DE ARA LAR
EJERCITO
CAL L E D E
SANCHO
Citadel Autobuses
Bullrunning route PLAZA T E O BAL D OS
CONDE
DE LA OLIVETO PLAZA AVENIDA DE LA
PAZ PRÍNCIPE PLAZA
DE VIANA BAJA NAVARRA DE LAS
MERINDADES
Aeropuerto ZARAGOZA
6 km (4 miles) HUESCA
For keys to symbols see back flap
136-137_EW_Spain.indd 137 26/09/17 11:53 am

138  NOR THERN SP AIN


houses in Lesaka have wooden
balconies under deep eaves. The
road south passes hills dotted
with white farmsteads to reach
Igantzi, (Yanci), with its red-and-
white houses. Arantza is the most
re mote town. Since the 12th
century, pigeons have been
caught in huge nets strung
across a pass above Etxalar
(Echalar). At the summit of Canopy over the Virgin and Child in the
La Rhune on the French bor der Colegiata Real, Roncesvalles
is a great view of the Pyrenees.
h Roncesvalles
g Elizondo Navarra. * 34. n Antiguo Molino
s/n, 948 76 03 01. _ Día de la
Navarra. * 7,700. @ n Palacio Virgen de Roncesvalles (8 Sep).
Basque houses in the picturesque town de Arizkunenea, 948 58 12 79 (closed ∑ roncesvalles.es
of Etxalar, Valle de Bidasoa winter). ( Thu. _ Santiago (25 Jul).
∑ baztan.eus Roncesvalles (Orreaga), on the
f Las Cinco Villas Spanish side of a pass through
del Valle de Bidasoa This is the biggest of a string the Pyrenees, is a ma jor halt on
of typical Basque villages in the
the Road to Santiago (see pp86–7).
Navarra. @ Pamplona, San Sebastián. very beautiful valley of Baztán. Before it be came associated with
n 948 63 12 22 (Easter week & By the river are noble houses the pil grim’s way, Roncesvalles
summer; 948 59 23 86 rest of year). bearing coats of arms. was the site of a major battle
∑ turismo.navarra.es; Arizkun, further up the val ley, in 778, in which the Basques
∑ baztan-bidasoa.com has old fortified houses and a of Navarra slaughtered the
17th-century convent. The rear guard of Charlemagne’s
Five attractive Basque towns lie Cueva de Brujas, in Zugarramurdi, army as it marched home ward.
in or near this valley, the most was once a meeting place This event is described in the
northerly being Bera (Vera). The for witches. 12th-century French epic
poem The Song of Roland.
The 13th-century Colegiata
Real, which has served trav ellers
down the centuries, has a silver-
plated Virgin and Child below
a high canopy. In the graceful
chapterhouse, off the cloister,
is the white tomb of Sancho VII
the Strong (1170–1234), looked
down upon by a stained-glass
window of his great victory, the
battle of Las Navas de Tolosa (see
pp58–9). Exhibits in the church
museum include “Charlemagne’s
chess board”, an enamelled reli-
quary which is so called because
of its chequered design.

j Valle de Roncal
Navarra. @ from Pamplona. n Paseo
Julian Gayarre s/n, Roncal, 948 47 52
56; Isaba, 948 89 32 51.
∑ vallederoncal.es
Running perpendicular to the
Pyrenees, this valley is still largely
reliant on sheep, and the village
of Roncal is known for its
cheeses. Because of the valley’s
relative isolation, the inhabitants
The forested countryside around Roncesvalles have preserved their own
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp563–4 and pp585–6


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BASQUE C OUNTR Y , NA V ARR A & LA RIOJA  139


identity, and local costumes are cliffs. The abbey has been here
worn during fiestas. The ski resort since the 11th century, when it
of Isaba, further up the valley, was a great spiritual and political
has a museum of local history centre. Sancho III and his succes-
and life. A spectacular road sors made it the royal pantheon
winds from Isaba to the tree- of Navarra. The monastery began
lined village of Ochagavia in the to decline in the 12th century. It
parallel Valle de Salazar. To the was aban doned from 1836 until
north, the Selva de Irati, one 1954, when it was restored by
of Europe’s largest woodlands, the Benedictines, who turned
spreads over the Pyrenees part of it into a hotel. To see the
into France, below snowy monastery, you must join one
Monte Ori at 2,017 m (6,617 ft). of the tours run every morning
and afternoon.
The big 11th-century church
has a Gothic vault and three
lofty apses. On its west portal Crucifix in the oratory of the Castillo
are weather-worn carvings of de Javier
strange beasts, as well as biblical
figures. The Roman esque crypt
has unusually short columns with z Sangüesa
chunky capitals. The monks’ Navarra. * 5,000. @ n Calle Mayor
Gregorian chant (see p380) during 2, 948 87 14 11 (closed Mon in winter).
ser vices is wonderful to hear. ( Fri. _ San Sebastián (11 Sep).
∑ sanguesa.es
l Castillo de Javier Since medieval times this small
town beside a bridge over the
Javier, Navarra. Tel 948 88 40 24.
@ from Pamplona. Open daily. Río Aragón has been a stop on
& ∑ santuariojaviersj.org the Aragonese pilgrimage route
Colourful balconies of houses in the to Santiago (see pp86–7).
village of Roncal St Francis Xavier, the patron The richly sculpted south
saint of Navarra, a missionary portal of the Iglesia de Santa
k Monasterio and a priest of the Jesuit order María la Real is a 12th- and
de Leyre (see p128), was born in this 13th-century treasure of
Romanesque art (see p28). It
13th-century castle in 1506.
Yesa, Navarra. Tel 948 88 41 50. It has since been re stored and has many figures and details
@ Yesa. Open daily. Chants: 7:30am, is now a Jesuit spiritual centre. depicting the Last Judgment
9am, 7pm and 9:10pm daily. Of interest are the saint’s and society in the 13th century.
Closed 1 & 6 Jan, 25 Dec. & bedroom and a museum in The Gothic Iglesia de Santiago
∑ monasteriodeleyre.com the keep devoted to his life. and the 12th- to 13th-century
In the oratory is a 13th-century Gothic Iglesia de San Francisco
The monastery of San Salvador polychrome Christ on the cross are also worth seeing. On the
de Leyre is situated high above and a macabre 15th-century main street the 16th-century
a reservoir, alone amid grand mural of grinning skeletons town hall (ayuntamiento) and
scenery, backed by limestone entitled The Dance of Death. the square beside it stand on
sites that were once part of the
medieval palace of the Prince
of Viana and a residence of
the kings of Navarra. The library
beside the square is housed in
what remains of the palace and
is open to the public.
Environs
To the north of Sangüesa there
are two deep, narrow gorges.
The most impressive is the Hoz
de Arbayún, whose limestone
cliffs are inhabited by colonies
of vultures. It is best seen from
the NA178 north of Domeño.
The Hoz de Lumbier can be seen
The roughly carved columns in the crypt of the Monasterio de Leyre from a point on the A21.




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Date 15th November 2012
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barcelona





Introducing Barcelona 142–145

Old Town 146–161
Eixample 162–171
Montjuïc 172–177
Further Afield 178–182
Barcelona Street Finder 183–189
Shopping in Barcelona 190–193
Entertainment in Barcelona 194–199









































140-141_EW_Spain.indd 141 05/10/15 2:45 pm

142  BARCEL ONA

Introducing Barcelona

Fringed by beaches and encircled by hills, the capital of
Catalonia is Spain’s most dynamic and stylish city, and one
of the Mediterranean’s busiest ports. In culture, commerce
and sport, Barcelona not only rivals Madrid, but it is itself on
a par with the greatest European cities, as confirmed by
the success of the Olympic Games in 1992. Although there
are plenty of historical monuments in the Old Town (Ciutat
Vella), Barcelona is best known for the scores of buildings in
the Eixample left by the artistic explosion of Modernisme
(see pp144–5) in the decades around 1900. Always open to
outside influences because of its location on the coast, not far
from the French border, Barcelona continues to sizzle with
creativity: its bars and the public parks speak
more of bold contemporary
design than of tradition. Casa Milà (see p169), also known AVI NG UD A DI AG ON AL EIXAMPLE
as La Pedrera, is the most avant- (see pp162–71)
garde of all the works of Antoni
Gaudí (see p168). Barcelona has
more Art Nouveau buildings than
any other city in the world. PASSEIG DE SANT J AON
0 kilometres 1 PASSEIG DE GRACIA
0 miles 0.5


PLACA DE
La Rambla CATALUNYA
LA RAMBLA VIA LAIETANA

Palau Nacional (see p176), on the hill of
Montjuïc, dominates the fountain-filled
avenue built for the 1929 International OLD TOWN
AV I N G UDA D E L PA R A L . L E L
Exhibition. It now houses the Museu MONTJUÏC (see pp146–61)
Nacional d’Art de Catalunya, which covers (see pp172–77)
1,000 years of Catalan art and includes a PASS. DE COLOM
splendid Romanesque section. RONDA DEL LITORAL
RONDA DEL LITORAL










Christopher Columbus
surveys the waterfront
from the top of a
60-m (200-ft) column
(see p160) in the heart
Montjuïc Castle (see p177) is a massive fortification of the Port Vell (Old
dating from the 17th century. Sited on the crest of the Port). From the top,
hill of Montjuïc, it offers panoramic views of the city and visitors can look out over
port, and forms a sharp contrast to the ultramodern the promenades and quays
sports halls built nearby for the 1992 Olympic Games. that revitalized the area.
Entrance to Park Güell, Barcelona, with Gaudí’s mosaic balcony in foreground


142-143_EW_Spain.indd 142 26/09/17 11:00 am
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INTRODUCING BARCEL ONA  143


The Sagrada Família
(see pp170–71), Gaudí’s
unfinished masterpiece,
begun in 1882, rises
above the streets of the
Eixample. Its polychro­
matic ceramic mosaics
and sculptural forms
inspired by nature are
typical of his work.



Casa Mila




EIXAMPLE
(see pp162–71)
AVI NG UD A DI AG ON AL


Barcelona Cathedral (see pp152–3) is a
magnificent 14th­century building in the
heart of the Barri Gòtic (Gothic Quarter). It
has 28 side chapels, which en circle the
nave and contain some splendid Baroque
altarpieces. The keeping of white geese in
PASSEIG DE GRACIA
PASSEIG DE SANT J AON
PLACA DE the cloisters is a centuries­old tradition.
CATALUNYA
LA RAMBLA VIA LAIETANA


OLD TOWN
AV INGUDA DEL PARA L . LE L
MONTJUÏC (see pp146–61)
(see pp172–77)
PASS. DE COLOM RONDA DEL LITORAL
RONDA DEL LITORAL



Parc de la Ciutadella (see p158), between
the Old Town and the Vila Olímpica, has
something for everyone. The gardens full
of statuary offer relaxation, the boating lake
and the zoo are fun, while the museum
within its gates covers natural history.



La Rambla (see pp154–5) is the most
famous street in Spain, alive at all
hours of the day and night. A stroll
down its length to the seafront, taking
in its palatial buildings, shops, cafés
and street vendors, makes a perfect
introduction to Barcelona life.




142-143_EW_Spain.indd 143 26/09/17 11:00 am

144  BARCEL ONA


Gaudí and Modernisme

Towards the end of the 19th century a new style All aspects of
of art and architecture, Modernisme, a variant of decoration in a
Art Nouveau, was born in Barcelona. It became a Modernista building,
even interior design,
means of expression for Catalan nationalism and were planned by the
counted Josep Puig i Cadafalch, Lluís Domènech i architect. This door
Montaner and, above all, Antoni Gaudí i Cornet and its tiled sur ­
(see p168) among its major exponents. Barcelona’s round are in Gaudí’s
1906 Casa Batlló
Eixample district (see pp162–71) is full of the (see p168).
highly original build ings that they created for
their wealthy clients.


A dramatic cupola
covers the central
salon, which rises
through three floors.
It is pierced by
small round holes,
inspired by Islamic
architecture, giving
the illusion of stars.
Upper galleries are
richly decorated
with carved wood
and cofferwork.













The spiral carriage ramp is an early sign of Gaudí’s
predilection for curved lines. He would later exploit
this to the full in the wavy façade of his masterpiece,
the Casa Milà (La Pedrera) (see p169).



1859 Civil engineer 1900 Josep Puig i 1903 Lluís Domènech i
Ildefons Cerdà i Sunyer Cadafalch builds Casa Montaner builds Hospital
submits proposals Amatller (see p168) de la Santa Creu i de Sant
for expansion 1878 Gaudí graduates Pau (see p169)
of Barcelona as an architect Hospital detail
1850 1865 1880 1895 1910 1925
1912 Casa Milà
1883 Gaudí takes 1888 Barcelona completed 1926 Gaudí dies
over design of Neo­ Universal Exhibition
Gothic Sagrada gives impetus 1905 Domènech i Montaner builds Casa
Família (see pp170–71) to Modernisme Lleó Morera (see p168). Puig i Cadafalch
builds Casa Terrades (see p169)
Detail of Sagrada Família





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INTRODUCING BARCEL ONA  145



Bizarrely decorated chimneys Gaudí’s Materials
became one of the trade­
marks of Gaudí’s later Gaudí designed, or collaborated on designs,
work. They reach a for almost every known medium. He com bined
fantastic extreme on bare, undecorated materials – wood, rough­
the gleaming, hump­ hewn stone, rubble and brickwork – with
backed roof of the meticulous craftwork in wrought iron and
Casa Batlló. stained glass. Mosaics of ceramic tiles were
used to cover his fluid, uneven forms.
Elaborate
wrought-iron
lamps light the
grand hall.
Ceramic tiles decorate
the chimneys.

Stained glass, Sagrada Mosaic of ceramic tiles,
Família (see pp170–71) Park Güell (see p182)








Detail of iron gate, Casa Ceramic tiles on El Capricho
Vicens (see p168) (see p115)

Parabolic arches,
used extensively by
Gaudí, show his
interest in Gothic
architecture (see p28).
These arches form a
corridor in his 1890
Col·legi de les
Teresianes, a convent
school in the west
of Barcelona.
Escutcheon alludes to
the Catalan coat of arms.




Palau Güell (1889)
Gaudí’s first major building in the centre
of the city (see p155) established his
international reputation for outstand­
ingly original architecture. Built for his
lifelong patron, the industrialist Eusebi
Güell, the mansion stands on a small
plot of land in a narrow street, making
the façade difficult to view. Inside, Organic forms inspired the wrought iron around the gates
Gaudí creates a sense of space by using to the palace. Gaudí’s later work teems with wildlife, such
carved screens, galleries and recesses. as this dragon, covered with brightly coloured tiles, which
His unique furniture is also on display. guards the steps in the Park Güell.






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Universitat
RONDA DE SANT ANTONI CARRER DELS TALLERS
C. DE PELAI

RONDA DE SANT PERE
VICENÇ
Sant C. DE JOAQUIN COSTA PLAÇA DE Catalunya Urquinaona Arc de
Antoni MARTORELL DE LLUIS CARRER DE TRAFALGAR Triomf
PLAÇA
PLAÇA DE
SANT PAU DEL PEDRO C. DEL CARME BARRI MILLET AGUSTI VELL CARRER DE BUENAVENTURA MUÑOZ CARRER DE LA
PLAÇA DE LA
PLAÇA
SANT PERE
VILA DE
MADRID
PLAÇA
PLAÇA DE
D'ANTONI
SANT
MAURA
D E L R AVA L
R A M B L A
GÒTIC
RONDA DE CARRER DE SANT PAU Liceu L A R A M B L A CARRER DE FERRAN VIA LAIETANA C. DE LA PRINCESA CARRER DEL COMERÇ PASSEIG DE PICASSO PASSEIG DE PUJADES
CA RRER DE L'HOSPITAL
PARC DE LA
EL RAVAL
CARRER NOU DE LA RAMBLA PLAÇA C ARRER D'AVINYO Jaume I CIUTADELLA CARRER DE FRANCESC D'ARANDA
REIAL
TRAGINERS
Paral.lel PLAÇA DELS LA RIBERA CARRER DE WELLINGTON CARRER DE JOAN MIRO
Drassanes
PLAÇA Estació
PLAÇA DEL D'ANTONI de França Zoo de
DUC DE LOPEZ Barcelona
AVINGUDA DEL PARAL . LEL
AVINGUDA DE
MEDINACELI
PASSEIG DE COLOM PORT Barceloneta PASSEIG DE CIRCUMVAL.LACIO
LES DRASSANES
VELL PLAÇA DE Ciutadella-
Vila Olímpica
PAU VILA
Dàrsena RONDA DEL LITORAL
Nacional D'ESP ANYA CARRER DE GINEBRA PL. DELS
PASSEIG JOAN DE BORBO POETA BOSCA PLAÇA DE PASSEIG MARITIM DE LA BARCELONETA
MOLL Marina PLAÇA DEL BARCELONETA VOLUNTARIS
OLIMPICS
PARC DE LA
Port Vell
BARCELONETA
Platja
Barceloneta
BRUGUERA
Platja
Sant Sebastià
Torre
Sant Sebastiá
146-147_EW_Spain.indd 146 26/09/17 11:53 am

BARCEL ONA  147
OLD TOWN


The Old Town, traversed by the city’s most mansions. This area is bounded by the
famous avenue, La Rambla, is one of the leafy Parc de la Ciutadella, home to
most ex tensive medieval city centres in the city’s zoo. The revitalized seafront is
Europe. The Barri Gòtic contains the cathedral a stimulating mix of old and new. Trendy
and a maze of streets and squares. Across shops and restaurants make up the fashion­
from the Via Laietana, the El Born neighbour­ able marina, contrasted with the old
hood is dominated by the Santa Maria del mari time neighbourhood of Barceloneta
Mar church and is replete with 14th­century and the modern Olympic port.

Sights at a Glance
Museums and Galleries Harbour Sights Monuments
2 Museu Frederic Marès f Port Olímpic o Arc del Triomf
4 MUHBA El Call h Port Vell j Monument a Colom
9 Museu d’Art Contemporani k Golondrinas Parks and Gardens
r Museu Picasso Churches p Parc de la Ciutadella
i Museu de la Xocolata 7 Cathedral (pp152–3) d Zoo de Barcelona
a Castell dels Tres Dragons t Basílica de Santa Maria del Mar
s Museu Martorell
l Museu Marítim and Drassanes Historic Buildings
Streets and Districts 1 Casa de l’Ardiaca
8 El Raval 3 Conjunt Monumental de la
Plaça del Rei
0 La Rambla
e El Born 5 Ajuntament
y Carrer Montcada 6 Palau de la Generalitat
g Barceloneta q Palau de la Música Catalana
w La Llotja
u El Born Centre de
Cultura i Memòria
See also Barcelona Street
Universitat Finder maps 2, 5, 6
RONDA DE SANT ANTONI CARRER DELS TALLERS
C. DE PELAI

RONDA DE SANT PERE
Sant C. DE JOAQUIN COSTA PLAÇA DE Catalunya Urquinaona Arc de
VICENÇ
Antoni MARTORELL DE LLUIS CARRER DE TRAFALGAR Triomf
PLAÇA
PLAÇA DE
SANT PAU DEL PEDRO C. DEL CARME BARRI MILLET AGUSTI VELL CARRER DE BUENAVENTURA MUÑOZ CARRER DE LA MARINA
PLAÇA DE LA
PLAÇA
SANT PERE
VILA DE
MADRID
PLAÇA
PLAÇA DE
D'ANTONI
SANT
MAURA
D E L R AVA L
R A M B L A
GÒTIC
RONDA DE CARRER DE SANT PAU Liceu L A R A M B L A CARRER DE FERRAN VIA LAIETANA C. DE LA PRINCESA CARRER DEL COMERÇ PASSEIG DE PICASSO PASSEIG DE PUJADES CARRER DE LLULL
CA RRER DE L'HOSPITAL
PARC DE LA
EL RAVAL
CARRER NOU DE LA RAMBLA PLAÇA C ARRER D'AVINYO Jaume I CIUTADELLA CARRER DE FRANCESC D'ARANDA
REIAL
TRAGINERS
Paral.lel PLAÇA DELS LA RIBERA CARRER DE WELLINGTON CARRER DE JOAN MIRO
Drassanes
PLAÇA Estació
PLAÇA DEL D'ANTONI de França Zoo de
DUC DE LOPEZ Barcelona
AVINGUDA DEL PARAL . LEL
MEDINACELI
AVINGUDA DE
PASSEIG DE COLOM PORT Barceloneta PASSEIG DE CIRCUMVAL.LACIO
LES DRASSANES
VELL PLAÇA DE Ciutadella-
Vila Olímpica
PAU VILA
Dàrsena RONDA DEL LITORAL
Nacional D'ESP ANYA CARRER DE GINEBRA PL. DELS
PASSEIG JOAN DE BORBO POETA BOSCA PLAÇA DE PASSEIG MARITIM DE LA BARCELONETA
OLIMPICS
MOLL Port Vell PLAÇA DEL BARCELONETA VOLUNTARIS
Marina
PARC DE LA
BARCELONETA
Platja
Barceloneta
BRUGUERA
Platja
Sant Sebastià
0 metres 500 Torre
Sant Sebastiá
0 yards 500
The glorious, Gothic interior of Barcelona Cathedral For keys to symbols see back flap
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148  BARCEL ONA

Street-by-Street: Barri Gòtic

The Barri Gòtic (Gothic Quarter) is the true heart of
Barcelona. The oldest part of the city, it was the site chosen 1 Casa de l’Ardiaca
by the Romans in the reign of Augustus (27 BC–AD 14) on Built on the Roman city wall,
the Gothic-Renaissance arch-
which to found a new colonia (town), and has been the deacon’s residence now houses
location of the city’s administrative buildings ever since. Barcelona’s historical archives.
The Roman forum was on the Plaça de Sant Jaume, where
now stand the medieval Palau de la Generalitat, Catalonia’s To Plaça de Catalunya
parlia ment, and the Casa de la Ciutat, Barcelona’s town
hall. Close by are the Gothic cathedral and royal
palace, where Columbus was received by
Fernando and Isabel on his return from his
voyage to the New World in 1492 (see p61).









ALL S A N T S E V E R
7. Cathedral C C A R R E R D E L B I S B E PIE T A T
The façade and spire
are 19th-century DEL A T
additions to the O R
original Gothic N
building. Among O
the artistic treasures DOMÈNEC H
inside are medieval T
Catalan paintings. N A
6 Palau de la SANT S
Generalitat
The seat of
Catalonia’s governor
has superb Gothic PL A Ç A DE
features, which SANT
include the chapel C ARRER DE FERR AN JA UME
and a stone staircase
rising to an open-air,
arcaded gallery.

A C I U T A T


To La Rambla
D E L





5 Ajuntament
Barcelona’s town hall was built in the 14th and A R R E R
15th centuries. The façade is a Neo-Classical addition.
In the entrance hall stands Three Gypsy Boys by Joan C
Rebull (1899–1981), a 1976 copy of a sculpture he
originally created in 1946.
For hotels and restaurants in this area see pp564–5 and pp586–8


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