(DK Eyewitness) Travel Guide - Spain

WHERE T O EA T AND DRINK  599

CÁDIZ: Ventorillo del Chato
DK Choice Seafood €
ALMONTE: Aires de Doñana Via Augusta Julia, 11011
(La Choza del Rocio) € Tel 956 25 00 25 Closed Sun dinner
Traditional Spanish (except Aug)
Avenida de la Canaliega 1 This 18th-century seaside inn
Tel 959 44 22 89 Closed Mon specializes in fresh fish. Try the
This converted choza (large corvino al vapor (steamed sea
thatched hut) is typical of the bass) or the pasta negra fresca
Doñana park in which it’s located. y frutos del mar (fresh black
Beautifully decorated, it enjoys pasta with seafood).
splendid terrace views across
woods and water ways. The CARBONERAS: El Cabo €€
creative Andalucían cuisine Seafood
offers specialities like revuelto Paseo Marítimo 67, 04140
marismeño (scrambled eggs Tel 950 13 06 24 Closed Mon
with local herbs). This friendly beachside restaurant
close to Cabo de Gata National
Park produces imaginative
ALMONTE: El Tamborilero € seafood dishes, such as squid
Traditional Spanish Appetizing tapas at El Molino de la stuffed with spinach and nuts.
Calle Unamuno 15, 21730 Romera, Carmona
Tel 959 40 69 55 Closed Sun, CARMONA: Goya €
1–15 Jul Set in the peaceful courtyard of a Traditional Spanish
Former bodega with traditional historic building close to the Calle Prim 2, 41410
decor. The chef invites you into Cathedral, the Palacio de Gallego Tel 954 14 30 60
the kitchen to choose from their offers a fine selection of meats Typical Sevillian establishment
selections of the day. and fish, grilled while you watch. off the city’s main square. Try
The wine list spans all regions the baked lamb. The tapas bar
ALMUÑECAR: El Chaleco € of Spain. Be sure to leave room has good tortillas.
French for dessert!
Avenida de la Costa del Sol, 37, 18690 CARMONA: El Molino
Tel 958 63 24 02 Closed Sun dinner; BENALMADENA: La Fuente € de la Romera €
Mon Traditional Spanish Traditional Spanish
Welcoming restaurant with a Plaza de España 9, 29639 Calle Sor Angela de la Cruz 8, 41410
good range of meat, fish and Tel 952 56 94 66 Closed Tue–Sun Tel 954 14 20 00 Closed Mon
poultry dishes. For excellent lunch; Mon Converted from a 15th-century
value, try one of their taster’s Charming restaurant with tables Moorish olive oil mill and granary,
menus. Good selection of wine on the square. Try the king this evocative place serves
and home-made desserts. prawns in a mild chilli, ginger quality regional dishes, such as
and coriander butter with rice. succulent venison in red wine.
ANTEQUERA: Caserio de
San Benito € BUBIÓN: Teide € CARMONA: Parador Alcázar
Traditional Spanish Traditional Spanish del Rey Don Pedro €
Autovía A-45, Salida 86, Dirección Calle Carretera s/n,18412 Traditional Spanish
Málaga–Córdoba s/n, 29200 Tel 958 76 30 37 Closed 2nd half Calle del Alcazar s/n, 41410
Tel 952 111 103 Closed Fri dinner; Jun Tel 954 14 10 10
Sat At this pleasant stone-built rest- Stylish, traditional parador
A great place to stop along the aurant in an Alpujarran village, restaurant with a Moorish patio
motorway, this charming old the simple menu includes such and a vaulted, antique-furnished
cortijo has an eclectic collection dishes as migas (fried bread- dining room.
of antiques in its patio. Dine on crumbs with garlic) and choto
the terrace – or, when it’s cold, asado (roast kid). CAZORLA: Meson Leandro €
cozy up by the fireplace in one Traditional Spanish
of their dining rooms. Regional CÁDIZ: Balandro € Calle Hoz 3, 23470
food is prepared with care. Seafood Tel 953 72 06 32 Closed Wed,
Alameda Apodaca 22, 11004 2nd half Jun
BAEZA: Casa Juanito €€ Tel 956 22 09 92 Michelin-recommended
Traditional Spanish Restaurant in converted 18th- restaurant in a lovely Jaén
Avenida del Alcalde Puché Pardo 57, century mansion overlooking village bordering a National
23440 the bay. Superb seafood, plus a Park. Meson Leandro is famed
Tel 953 74 00 40 good selection of meat dishes. for its carne a la piedra (stone-
Olive oil-based dishes at this cosy baked meat dishes).
family-run place in a historical CÁDIZ: Freiduría Cervecería
town include cabrito con habas Las Flores € CÓRDOBA: Horno San Luis €
(young goat with broad beans). Seafood Modern Spanish
Divine home-made desserts. Plaza Topete 4, 11001 Calle Cardenal Gonzalez, 14003
Tel 956 22 61 12 Tel 665 05 37 83
BAEZA: Palacio de Gallego Down-to-earth restaurant Two-storey restaurant with lots
Restaurante & Boutique €€ specializing in shellfish and of romantic nooks and dining
Traditional Spanish fried fish platters. You can watch rooms. Don’t let the seemingly
Calle Santa Catalina 5, 23440 as your choice is cooked on simple menu fool you – the
Tel 667 76 01 84 Closed Tue the spot. cuisine is anything but typical!
For more information on types of restaurants see page 577
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CÓRDOBA: Regadera € DK Choice
Traditional Spanish
Ronda Isasa 10, 14003 GRANADA: Mirador de
Tel 957 10 14 00 Closed Mon Morayma €
Just steps from the riverfront, Traditional Spanish
Regadera has a fresh appeal and C/ Pianista Gracia Carrillo 2, 18010
excellent-value menu of the day. Tel 958 22 82 90 Closed Sun
dinner
CÓRDOBA: San Miguel € Few restaurants offer such a
Traditional Spanish winning com bination of idyllic
Plaza San Miguel 1, 14002 setting and quality cuisine.
Tel 957 47 01 66 Closed Sun Located beside the secluded
Sterling family-run spot. patio of a private house inside
Specialities include Iberian cured the Albaicin, it enjoys superb
meats, pisto (ratatouille) and city views. The authentic
manitas de cerdo (pig’s trotters). Andaluz food includes fresh
remojón (salad with salt cod,
CÓRDOBA: La Almudaina €€ olives and orange) and salmorejo
Traditional Spanish (thicker version of gazpacho).
Campo Santo de los Mártires 1, 14004
Tel 957 47 43 42 Closed Sun dinner
Located in a former bishop‘s GRANADA: Ruta del Veleta €
palace. Dishes include the ever- Fusion
present salmorejo (thick gazpacho) Picturesque views from the Rib Room, Crta Sierra Nevada 136, km 5, 4,
and solomillo al foie (pork sirloin Gibraltar Cenes de la Vega, 18190
with foie gras). Tel 958 48 61 34 Closed Sun dinner
A romantic spot with lovely Popular regional eating spot on
CÓRDOBA: Casa Pepe de sunset views. The menu includes the old road to Sierra Nevada.
la Juderia €€ Cajun chicken, fish and veggie Alpujarran decor and hearty
Traditional Spanish dishes. Thursday is steak night, dishes like roast kid. Seasonal
Calle Romero 1, 14003 with various cuts on offer. game and good seafood choice.
Tel 957 20 07 44 Closed Sun
Enduring favourite since GIBRALTAR: Rib Room €€€ HUELVA: Azabache €
1928. Dine indoors or on the Traditional Spanish Traditional Spanish
flower-filled patio, and savour Rock Hotel, Europa Road Calle Vazquez Lopez 22, 21001
the traditional Córdoban dish Tel 350 2007 3000 Tel 959 25 75 28 Closed Sat dinner;
flamenquin (pork loin rolled with Iconic restaurant in one of Sun
Iberian ham, then breaded and Gibraltar’s most distinguished The varied menu, based on top-
deep fried). hotels, serving modern British quality ingredients, includes
cuisine with Iberian and traditional dishes, plus innovative
EL ROCIO: Restaurante Toruño € Moroccan influences. versions of local fare. Excellent
Traditional Spanish seafood and good options for
Plaza Acebuchal 22, 21750 GRANADA: Antigua Bodega vegetarians, too. Ample wine list.
Tel 959 44 24 22 Castañeda €
Inviting restaurant with lovely Traditional Spanish JABUGO: Meson Cinco Jotas €
terrace and excellent views. Try Calle Elvira 5, 18010 Traditional Spanish
one of the rice dishes. Tel 958 22 97 06 Crta San Juan del Puerto, 21290
Archetypal tapas bar with barrels, Tel 959 12 10 71 Closed Mon
FUENGIROLA: Vegetalia € beams and colourful tiles. Feast Unpretentious restaurant in the
Vegetarian on Trevélez mountain ham, squid birthplace of Spain‘s greatest
Calle Santa Isabel 8, Los Boliches and sardines and enjoy a chilled jamón. Home-cured Jabugo and
29640 fino on the side. cod with prawns and olives are
Tel 952 58 60 31 Closed Sun, among the best dishes.
Jul–Aug GRANADA: Carmen del
Finnish-owned restaurant with San Miguel € JAÉN: Taberna Don Sancho €
a self-service lunchtime buffet. Traditional Spanish Traditional Spanish
Delicious home-made desserts. Plaza Torres Bermejas 3, 18009 Avenida de Andalucia 17, 23005
Tel 958 22 67 23 Closed Sun dinner; Tel 953 26 40 21
GERENA: Casa Salvi Tapas € all day Sun in summer Friendly, lively tavern with
Tapas Attractive restaurant overlooking imaginative versions of
Miguel de Cervantes 46, 41860 the Alhambra, with traditional traditional dishes. Ask for the
Tel 955 78 32 72 dishes, such as rabbit and quail. delicious cod with blueberries.
Don’t let the traditional decor
fool you: there is a vast, creative GRANADA: Chikito € JAÉN: Casa Antonio €€
selection of tapas and plates, Traditional Spanish Traditional Spanish
excellent grilled meats, seafood Plaza del Campillo 9, 18009 Calle Fermín Palma 3, 23008
and seasonal game. Tel 958 22 33 64 Closed Wed Tel 953 27 02 62 Closed Mon; Sun
Attractive tapas bar-restaurant. dinner; Aug
GIBRALTAR: The Waterfront € Try their delicious broad beans Elegant restaurant with modern
International with ham or be brave and dig decor and contemporary spins
Queensway Quay, Units 4/5 Ragged into the tortilla Sacromonte – on traditional dishes. The menu
Staff Wharf, Marina Bay omelette with marrow, brains, changes regularly, but cochinillo
Tel 350 2004 5666 Closed Tue herbs and bull’s testicles! (suckling pig) features regularly.
Key to Price Guide see page 582
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WHERE T O EA T AND DRINK  601

JEREZ DE LA FRONTERA: DK Choice MARBELLA: Skina €€€
Reino de Leon Gastrobar € Fusion
Fusion MÁLAGA: El Tintero II € Calle Aduar 12, 29601
Calle Latorre 8, 11402 Seafood Tel 952 76 52 77 Closed Sun, Mon,
Tel 956 32 29 15 Playa del Dedo s/n (El Palo), early Dec, early Jan–early Feb
Chic restaurant with dishes such 29018 Chic, intimate, old town eating
as torpedoes de gambones (crispy Tel 952 20 68 26 spot with eclectic fusion of
prawns served with a sweet chili This is without doubt the noisiest dishes from rabbit terrine to sole
sauce) and holjadre de solomillo restaurant on the Costa del Sol, with artichokes and tomato.
de cerdo (pastry-wrapped pork but don‘t let that put you off. Superlative tasting menu.
loin with a pink peppercorn sauce). Its beachside location, sweeping
views across the bay and magni- ORGIVA: Teteria Baraka €
LA LINEA: La Marina € ficent choice of fish dishes Moroccan
Seafood more than compensate. Calle Estacion 12, 18400
Paseo Maritimo, La Atunara s/n, There‘s no menu. You simply Tel 958 78 58 94 Closed Thu dinner
11300 point at the dish you want as With a warm and welcoming
Tel 956 17 15 31 Closed Mon waiters vociferously pass by atmosphere, this restaurant
Large seaside eating spot with announcing them. Except for and tea house offers lots of
nautical decor. Great views of bay lobster they‘re all more or less vegetarian options and a variety
and Gibraltar. Delicious chirlas the same price. Staff count the of delicious fresh juices. It is a
marineras (clams). plates when you‘re done to popular hangout for the local
calculate your bill. hippy community. Halal meat;
LA RINCONADA: El Pela € no alcohol served.
Traditional Spanish
Plaza de Rodriguez Montes 2, 41300 MÁLAGA: Mesón Astorga €€ OSUNA: El Mesón del Duque €
Tel 954 79 77 03 Closed Wed Traditional Spanish Traditional Spanish
Down-to-earth Sevillan Calle Gerona 11, 29006 Plaza de la Duquesa 1, 41640
restaurant. Try the arroz negro Tel 952 34 25 63 Closed Sun Tel 954 81 28 45 Closed Wed
(black rice). Breakfast is served This classical Malagueno This fine establishment with
with pan prieto de la Algaba (local restaurant serves dishes prepared a terrace overlooking a
speciality bread). from fresh market produce. Try church serves up a good and
the fried aubergine with sugar- extensive choice of Andalucían
LOS BARRIOS: cane honey. specialities, including home-
Mesón El Copo €€ made meatballs.
Seafood MARBELLA: Altamirano €
C/ La Almadraba 2 (Palmones), 11369 Seafood OSUNA: Doña Guadalupe €€
Tel 956 67 77 10 Closed Sun Plaza Altamirano 3, 29601 Traditional Spanish
Top beachside seafood eating Tel 952 82 49 32 Closed Wed, early Plaza de Guadalupe 6–8, 41640
spot. Try the fresh local urta (sea Jan–mid-Feb Tel 954 81 05 58 Closed Sat, Sun;
bream) and gallineta (Atlantic red Good-value family restaurant 2 wks Aug
fish). Good home-made desserts. with garden for alfresco dining. Family-run restaurant with
Special ities range from fritura outdoor terrace dining. Classic
MÁLAGA: Antigua Casa malagueno (fried fish platter) regional fare includes faisan con
de la Guardia € to besugo a la brasa (barbecued arroz (pheasant and wild rice).
Traditional Spanish sea bream).
Alameda Principal 18, 29015 PALMA DEL RIO: El Refectorio
Tel 952 21 46 80 Closed Sun MARBELLA: Paco Jiménez €€€ (Monasterio de San
Vintage 19th-century wine cellar Fine Dining Francisco) €
and bar on Málaga‘s central Plaza de Naranjos 11, 29601 Traditional Spanish
avenue. Their speciality tipple is Tel 952 77 36 10 Closed lunch; Mon Avenida Pío XII 35, 14700
dark, rich Pedro Ximénez wine Book a table on the balcony Tel 957 71 01 83
served directly from the barrel. overlooking the orange tree- Dine out in the atmospheric
lined Plaza de Naranjos, and old rectory of a converted
MÁLAGA: Café de Paris € enjoy an array of seafood and 15th-century monas tery.
Fusion meat dishes. Excellent service Traditional dishes include game
Calle Velez Málaga s/n, 29016 contributes to making this an in winter. In summer, dining on
Tel 952 22 50 43 Closed Mon dinner; unforgettable dining experience. the candlelit patio is a must.
Sun
Stylish restaurant serving modern
Spanish-Mediterranean dishes
including black truffles and arroz
au parmesan (parmesan rice).
Superb menú de degustación.
MÁLAGA: Mesón Cortijo
de Pepe €
Traditional Spanish
Plaza de la Merced 2, 29012
Tel 952 22 40 71 Closed Tue
Popular Andalucían tapas bar in
emblematic square adjoining
Picasso‘s birthplace. Good
calamari and prawn dishes. Traditional tapas restaurant, Chikito, in Granada (see p600)
For more information on types of restaurants see page 577
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PUERTO DE SANTA MARIA: One of the grand old Costa del
Pantalán G €€ Sol restaurants, Frutos serves
Seafood first-rate traditional dishes like
Avenida de la Libertad s/n, Puerto judiones a la Granja (Castilian-
Sherry, 11500 style white beans), roast suckling
Tel 956 87 18 65 Closed Sun dinner pig and fresh fish. Make sure to
Portside restaurant offering a visit the well-stocked basement
delectable assortment of fish and wine cellar.
seafood, but also meat. There is a
good selection of vegetables as TORREMOLINOS:
well, plus an extensive wine list. Nuevo Lanjarón €
Traditional Spanish
RONDA: Pedro Romero € Calle Europa 10, 29620
Traditional Spanish Tel 952 38 87 74 Closed Mon
Calle Virgen de la Paz 18, 29400 Probably the best-value
Tel 952 87 11 10 restaurant on the Costa del Sol.
Named after a 17th-century Located in a neat white-and-
matador, this restaurant serves ochre building in Torremolinos‘
excellent rabo de toro (braised old Calvario quarter, it offers a
bull’s tail) and perdiz con alubias variety of set menus that include
(partridge with kidney beans). well-prepared fish and meat
dishes. Try the estofado de ternera Beachfront dining at Yate El Cordobes in
RONDA: Tragatapas € (veal stew) followed by home- Torremolinos
Traditional Spanish made flan. Wonderful service.
Calle Nueva 4, 29400 VERA: Terrazza Carmona €
Tel 952 87 72 09 TORREMOLINOS: Traditional Spanish
Cosy unassuming locale in the Yate El Cordobés € Calle del Mar 1, 04620
town centre, with inventive tapas Seafood Tel 950 39 07 60 Closed Mon
like asparagus and goat‘s cheese, Paseo Maritimo s/n (Bajondillo), 29620 Award-winning roadside
marinated salmon and sautéed Tel 952 38 49 56 Closed lunch restaurant specializing in regional
mushrooms. Excellent value. (Feb & Dec) dishes like wild boar with olives.
Located right on Bajondillo Indulge in a tarta borracha
RONDA: Puerta Beach, the local seafood dishes (drunken tart!) for dessert.
Grande Ronda €€ at Yate El Cordobés range from
Traditional Spanish espetos de sardinas (charcoal
Calle Nueva 10, 29400 cooked fresh sardines) to
Tel 952 87 92 00 Closed dinner; Tue mero en adobo (grouper The Balearic Islands
A restaurant serving Andalucían marinated in vinegar) and
dishes, some with innovative home-spun desserts.
interpretations. Try one of the DK Choice
paellas, or the venison loin in a DK Choice
raspberry and blackberry sauce. FORMENTERA, CALÓ DE
ÚBEDA: Parador SANT AGUSTI: Es Calo €€
ROQUETAS DE MAR: Condestable Dávalos € Seafood
Alejandro €€€ Traditional C/ Vicari Joan Mari 14, Es Calo de
Seafood Plaza Vázquez de Molina, 23400 Sant Agusti
Avenida Antonio Machado 32, 04740 Tel 953 75 03 45 Tel 971 32 73 11 Closed Nov–Mar
Tel 950 32 24 08 Closed Mon; If you want to dine out in style Es Calo offers seafront dining
Sun dinner in Úbeda, then don‘t miss this with the freshest fish, seafood,
Boasting a Michelin star, this magnificent, sumptuous paellas and meat dishes. Try the
ultra-smart establishment restaurant located in the old arroz con bogavante (rice with
specializes in exquisite seafood quarter‘s grand 16th-century lobster) or the chuletón de
fusion dishes. Splash out on the parador. The setting is historic, ternera a la piedra (stone-cooked
degustación con marisco (tasting the decor traditional and the jumbo steak for two). Save room
menu with shellfish). atmosphere homely. Its wealth for the home-made desserts.
of gourmet offerings include an
SANLÚCAR DE BARRAMEDA: outstanding cold ajo blanco
Casa Bigote € (garlic and almond soup) and FORMENTERA, EL PILAR DE LA
Seafood mouthwatering game, such as MOLA: Pequeña Isla €
Calle Pórtico Bajo de Guía 10, 11540 stewed kid with pine nuts. Regional Spanish
Tel 956 36 26 96 Closed Sun Avenida El Pilar, 101 El Pilar de la Mola
Set beside the Gudalquivir Tel 971 32 70 68 Closed Nov–Apr
estuary, Casa Bigote is a largely ÚBEDA: El Seco € In the hilltop village of La Mola,
traditional marine restaurant Traditional Spanish the menu at Pequeña Isla
serving fresh seafood and Calle Corazon de Jesus 8, 23400 includes local dishes such as fish
regional hams. Exceptional lomo Tel 953 79 14 52 stew and roasted lamb.
de atún (tuna steak) and A family-run restaurant in Úbeda,
langostinos (king prawns). El Seco has a cosy dining room. FORMENTERA, SAN FERRAN:
Its home-cooked dishes include Blue Bar €
TORREMOLINOS: Frutos € bacalao El Seco (cod in cream Café
Traditional Spanish sauce) and paletilla de cordero Carretera San Ferran–La Mola,
Avenida de la Riviera 80, 29620 al horno (oven-baked shoulder km 7.8, Platja Migjorn, 07871
Tel 952 38 15 40 Closed Sun dinner of lamb). Tel 666 75 81 90 Closed Dec–Feb
Key to Price Guide see page 582
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WHERE T O EA T AND DRINK  603

One of the original 1960s IBIZA, SANT CARLES: MALLORCA, PALMA:
hippie beach bars, Blue Bar El Bigotes € Gran Café Cappuccino €
on Formentera serves decent Seafood Café
salads, pasta dishes, fish and Cala Mastella. Sant Carles, 07850 Carrer de Sant Miquel, 53, 07002
vegetarian options. Tel 650 79 76 33 Closed dinner; Tel 971 71 97 64 Closed Sun
Nov–Mar This is a stylish spot for morning
IBIZA, IBIZA TOWN: Perched on a crystalline cove, coffee, light lunches and evening
Sa Nansa €€ El Bigotes serves fresh fish in a drinks in the heart of Palma.
Seafood simple rustic outdoor setting.
Avenida 8 de Agosto 27, 07800 There are two sittings: at noon MALLORCA, PALMA: Forn de
Tel 971 31 87 50 Closed Mon; for grilled fish and 2pm for Sant Joan €€
Sun dinner seafood stew and rice. Mediterranean
Sa Nansa offers simply the best Carrer Sant Joan 4, 07012
seafood, whether it is grilled, DK Choice Tel 971 72 84 22
stewed or included in one of One of Palma’s best creative
their fabulously tasty rice or MALLORCA, LLOSETA: restaurants, set in an old bakery.
noodle dishes. Santi Taura €€ Try the roasted suckling pig with
Regional Spanish apple compote and caramelized
IBIZA, IBIZA TOWN: Carrer Joan Carles I 48, 07360 apples, but be sure to leave room
El Olivo Mio €€€ Tel 656 73 82 14 Closed Mon for the sumptuous desserts.
French lunch; Tue; Sun dinner
Pza de Vila 7–9, 07800 Local chef Santi Taura reinter- DK Choice
Tel 971 30 06 80 Closed Mon; prets old recipes from the
mid-Oct–mid-Apr islands in this smart restaurant MALLORCA, PALMA:
The menu at the popular El Olivo in Lloseta. Tasting menus are Marc Fosh €€€
Mio restaurant in fashionable accompanied by an oration of Modern
Dalt Vila is Ibizan-French with the history and culture of what’s Carrer de la Missió 7A, 07003
a nueva cocina edge. Get a table on your plate. Tel 971 72 01 14 Closed Sun
on the trendy terrace. British chef Marc Fosh has
garnered a well-deserved
IBIZA, SAN ANTONIO: MALLORCA, PALMA: reputation as one of the island‘s
Villa Mercedes €€€ Café L‘Antiquari € finest chefs. This restaurant,
Mediterranean Tapas inside the hip Convent de la
Passeig de la Mar, Puerto de San Carrer Arabi 5, 07003 Missió hotel, is where he shows
Antonio Tel 871 57 23 13 Closed Sun off his artistry. His original
Tel 971 34 85 43 Closed Sun–Thu A relaxed neighbourhood place cuisine delights without being
dinner; Jan & Feb with quirky decor and a friendly too challenging.
Villa Mercedes is a romantic hippie vibe. Good brunches.
restaurant with a lovely garden
terrace and Moroccan-themed MALLORCA, PALMA: MALLORCA, PORTIXOL:
chill-out lounge. Live music Club Nautico Cala Gamba € C’an Punta €
and performances daily. Seafood Greek
Passeig Cala Gamba s/n, 07007 C/ Vicari Joaquim Fuster 105, 07006
IBIZA, SAN CARLOS: Tel 971 26 23 72 Closed Mon Tel 971 27 43 34 Closed Tue
Anita’s Bar € The decor is nautical, with large Located on the waterfront, this
Tapas windows overlooking the marina. delightful place dishes out fresh
Lugar Barri San Carlos s/n, 07850 The menu is weighted towards Greek-inspired salads and tapas.
Tel 971 33 50 90 Closed Mon locally caught fish. Relaxed atmosphere.
An institution, Anita’s has
played a major role in Ibiza’s
counter culture, and it remains
a favourite. It features memorable
wall art.
DK Choice
IBIZA, SAN LORENZO:
La Paloma €
Mediterranean
Carrer Can Pou 4, 07812
Tel 971 32 55 43 Closed dinner
A labour of love undertaken by
two families, La Paloma is a
postcard-pretty garden
restaurant that serves home-
made dishes using organic,
local ingredients. Situated in
a renovated finca and
surrounded by fruit orchards, a
small range of delicious Italian
inspired dishes are served with
genuine care.
The upmarket Marc Fosh in Palma, Mallorca
For more information on types of restaurants see page 577

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MALLORCA, PORTIXOL: traditional Menorcan cuisine. a mix of traditional and modern
Fibonacci Pan € Highlights include suckling pig cuisine. Try the menu of the day
Café confit with braised melon. for excellent value.
C/ Vicario Joaquin Fuster 95, 07006
Tel 971 24 99 61 MENORCA, FERRERIES: FUERTEVENTURA, EL COTILLO:
This Scandinavian-style bakery Meson El Gallo € La Vaca Azul €
serves appetizing sandwiches, Regional Spanish Seafood
moist cakes, flaky croissants, and Crta Cala Santa Galdana, km 1.5, Calle Requena 9, 35660
invigorating salads and soups. 07750 Tel 928 53 86 85
Tel 971 37 30 39 Closed Mon; The famous Blue Cow is more
MENORCA, ALAIOR: Es Forn Nov–May surf than turf, with the Atlantic
de Torre Soli Nou € The signature dish here is rooster Ocean providing the majority of
Grill (el gallo) paella. It‘s also famed for the star ingredients on your
Urb. Torre Solí Nou, 07730 its steaks with Mallorcan cheese, plate. The terrace offers stunning
Tel 971 37 28 98 as well as a range of meats and views of the bay.
Focusing on meat and poultry a several types of tortilla (omelette).
la brasa (barbecued), the best FUERTEVENTURA, MORRO DE
tables are on the breezy terrace. JABLE: La Laja €
DK Choice Seafood
MENORCA, CIUTADELLA: MENORCA, MAHÓN: Avda Tomás Grau Gurrea 1, 35625
Es Tastet € Ses Forquilles € Tel 928 54 20 54
Mediterranean Tapas Fresh fish doesn‘t come much
Carrer Carnisseria 9, 07760 Rovellada de Dalt 20, 07703 fresher than at this coastal
Tel 971 38 47 97 Closed Sun lunch Tel 971 35 27 11 Closed Mon; restaurant with a fabulous
A great little owner-run place Sun in winter beachfront terrace. Rice and
that serves breakfast and tapas, An inviting crowd-pleaser. pasta dishes will suit vegetarians.
as well as pasta and fish dishes, Creative gourmet tapas and
all using fresh market produce. entrées made with the finest of GRAN CANARIA, ARTENARA:
local produce. Tapas bar on Restaurante Mirador La Cilla €
MENORCA, CIUTADELLA: ground floor; restaurant above. Regional
Cas Ferrer de Sa Font €€ Camino de La Cilla 9, 35350
Regional Spanish Tel 609 16 39 44
Carrer del Portal de la Font 16, 07760 MENORCA, SA MESQUIDA: A tunnel leads to a sun terrace –
Tel 971 48 07 84 Closed Apr, May, Cap Roig €€ offering panoramic views of
Sep & Oct: Mon, Sun dinner; Jun– Seafood the surrounding mountains –
Aug: Sun lunch; Nov–Mar Carretera Sa Mesquida 13, 07701 where you can linger over
Laid out in three rooms of an Tel 971 18 83 83 Closed Mon; Canarian regional specialities.
imposing 17th-century town mid-Oct–Easter
mansion, Cas Ferrer serves a Named after the star of its menu, GRAN CANARIA, BAÑADEROS:
small but good selection of Cap Roig (“scorpion fish”) is Restaurante Terraza El Puertillo €
traditional island dishes. highly recommended for its Seafood
calde reta de llagosta (lobster stew). Paseo Marítimo El Puertillo 12,
MENORCA, ES CASTELL: 35414
Son Granot € Tel 928 62 75 37
Regional Spanish The Hormigas make you feel part
Carretera Sant Felip, 07720 The Canary Islands of the family at their beach side
Tel 971 35 55 55 Closed Sun (mid- restaurant. They do a great paella,
Jul–mid-Sep) EL HIERRO, LA RESTINGA: as well as fresh fish.
Located on a hilltop, and part of Restaurante El Refugio €
a rural hotel, Son Granot serves Seafood GRAN CANARIA, EL
Calle La Lapa 2, 38911 MADRONAL: Casa Martell €
Tel 922 55 70 29 Closed Mon Regional
This family restaurant in a rural Carretera del Centro Km 18.2,
hotel has a rustic ambience. It 35308
defines its cuisine as de la barca al Tel 928 64 24 83
plato (from the boat to the plate). There are specialities of the
house to enjoy but you won‘t
EL HIERRO, VALVERDE: find them on any menu.
La Mirada Profunda € Home-grown organic vegetables
Modern Spanish feature heavily.
Calle Santiago 25, 38900
Tel 922 55 17 87 Closed Mon dinner GRAN CANARIA, LAS PALMAS:
A taste of Barcelona‘s avant-garde, Samsara €
flavour-rich gastronomy. The Fusion
wine list includes local vintages. CC La Charca, Avenida del Oasis 30,
35100
EL HIERRO, VALVERDE: Tel 928 14 27 36 Closed Mon
Tasca El Secreto € Stylish place which prepares
Tapas traditional Spanish ingredients
Calle Quintero Ramos 2, 38900 such as solomillo (sirloin) and
Tel 922 55 06 58 Closed Sun cordero (lamb) with exotic
Place settings at Son Granot in Es Colourful restaurant with a spices and sauces, such as
Castell, Menorca charming vintage style, boasting curry and teriyaki.
Key to Price Guide see page 582
582-605_EW_Spain.indd 604 26/09/17 11:56 am

WHERE T O EA T AND DRINK  605

GRAN CANARIA, LAS PALMAS:
Tres Jolie Las Palmas €
Italian
Calle Mendizabal, 24 Vegueta, 35100
Tel 928 96 50 86 Closed Mon–Wed
dinner; Sun
Authentic Italian cuisine in the
heart of Las Palmas. Good variety
of pasta, meat, fish and vege­
tarian choices with very attentive
service. The daily menu is
fantastic value.
DK Choice
LA GOMERA, LAS HAYAS:
Restaurante La Montaña-
Casa Efigenia €
Vegetarian
Crta Las Hayas–Arure, Las Hayas,
38869 Tables on the terrace at El Rincón de Juan Carlos, Tenerife
Tel 922 80 42 48
Outside, eucalyptus trees guard LA PALMA, SANTA CRUZ DE LA Brace yourself for a truly unique
the entrance to this celebrated PALMA: Restaurante Parrilla dining experience at El Diablo:
hamlet restaurant, part of a Las Nieves € the food is grilled directly over
rural accommodation complex. Regional Spanish a live volcanic crater, which
Inside, matriarch Efigenia Plaza de las Nieves 2, 38700 billows out sulphuric steam.
traditionally spoonfeeds you Tel 922 41 66 00
your first taste of the restau­ Go local in an establishment TENERIFE, COSTA ADEJE:
rant‘s only main course, a where tourists are conspicuous El Molino Blanco €€
hearty vegetable stew served by their absence. A daily menu International
with gofio (roasted maize). offers a taste of authentic Avenida Austria 5, 38660
The freshest salads and Canarian cuisine. Tel 922 79 62 82
almogrote (a cheesy dip) are A meat­heavy menu, though
perfect accompaniments. LANZAROTE, LA GERIA: vegetarians will be pleased
Bodega El Chupadero € with the good selection of
Regional Spanish salads and vegetable dishes. The
LA GOMERA, SAN SEBASTIÁN La Geria 3, 35570 place transforms into a music
DE LA GOMERA: Restaurante Tel 928 17 31 15 Closed Mon venue after sunset.
El Charcón €€ Simple, hearty fare can be had at
Regional Spanish this rustic restaurant attached to TENERIFE, EL SAUZAL:
Playa de la Cueva, 38800 a bodega in Lanzarote‘s volcanic Terrazas del Sauzal €€
Tel 922 14 18 98 Closed Sun & Mon wine region. Cash only. International
Freshly caught fish and seafood Pasaje Sierva de Dios 9, 38360
are the main focus at this pleasant LANZAROTE, NAZARET: Tel 922 57 14 91 Closed Mon, Tue
restaurant housed in a natural Lagomar € It boasts an international menu,
cave. As well as fish, they utilize Modern Spanish but eating here is really about
market­fresh vege tables in their Calle Los Loros 2, 35539 the 10,000 sq m of surrounding
meal preparation. Tel 928 84 56 65 Closed lunch; Mon gardens that makes for a
Lagomar is housed in a stunning picturesque setting.
LA PALMA, FUENCALIENTE: property, built into the cliffs.
La Casa del Volcan € Creative dishes include pork TENERIFE, LOS GIGANTES:
Regional Spanish steak over sweet potato El Rincón de Juan Carlos €€€
Calle de los Volcanes 23, 38740 parmentier and paprika sauce. Modern Spanish
Tel 922 44 44 27 Closed Mon Acantilado de Los Gigantes, Pasaje
Local cheese, goat and rabbit LANZAROTE, TEGUISE: Jacaranda, 2, 38683
are some of the fixtures on the La Cantina € Tel 922 86 80 40 Closed Sun, Mon
menu at this traditional Tapas Juan Carlos Padron is Tenerife’s
restaurant, which specializes in Calle León y Castillo 8, 35530 only celebrity chef. He works
Canarian food. Tel 928 84 55 36 with his brother Jonathan, a
Located in picturesque Teguise, renowned pastry chef. Their
LA PALMA, GARAFIA: which was once the island‘s tasting menus are inspired.
Restaurante Briesta € capital, this is a restaurant Outstanding food, excellent
Traditional Spanish specializing in tapas which also wine and service to match.
Carretera General Las Tricias, km 6, includes an art gallery and deli
38787 on its premises. TENERIFE, PUERTO DE LA CRUZ:
Tel 922 40 02 10 Closed Tue, Wed Tambo €
This charming family­run rest­ LANZAROTE, TIMANFAYA: Seafood
aurant features a tree growing Restaurante El Diablo € Calle Añaterve 1, Punta Brava, 38400
through it and a fireplace for Regional Spanish Tel 922 37 62 62 Closed Sun
chilly winter days. It serves a Parque Nacional de Timanfaya, Seafood dominates the menu at
good variety of meat, including Charco Prieto, s/n, 35560 Tambo, with the mussels and
lamb and rabbit. Tel 928 84 00 56 Closed dinner squid particularly recommended.
For more information on types of restaurants see page 577
582-605_EW_Spain.indd 605 26/09/17 11:56 am

606  TR A VELLERS ’ NEEDS

SHOPPING IN SPAIN

Spain has a thriving shopping culture, with comes to shopping. In small shops, most
many unique, family-run boutiques as well merchandise is behind the counter, and the
as reliable chain stores and big department clerk will retrieve whatever you need, making
stores. Good buys include leather, fashion, for a time-consuming, but friendly, way to
wine and ceramics, though these days it is shop. It is polite to greet the shop owner and
possible to find anything you are looking for, fellow shop pers with a “buenos días” or
from traditional gifts to designer clothes. “buenas tardes” as you enter, and to say
Spain has its own rules of etiquette when it “adiós” as you leave.

VAT In addition to these two rebajas
Value added tax (VAT), known periods, shops can also offer
as IVA in Spanish, is included in sales at any time of year.
the price of nearly every thing
in Spain. However, non-EU
residents are eligible for a VAT Markets
refund (see p616). If you buy A visit to a Spanish market is a
goods worth a total of €90.15 or great lesson in local culture.
more, request a VAT refund form Every town, large or small, has at
from the shop keeper, then get it least one fresh market, known as
stamped at a Spanish customs mercadillo, where you can buy
office before you check your local produce, Spanish cheeses
bags in at the airport. Present and sausages and other foods.
the stamped form at an affiliated Markets in the cities follow
bank or office in the airport, or regular store opening hours, but
mail it for the refund to be in smaller towns they may only
credited to your credit card. be open in the morning, or on
certain days of the week.
Fresh produce in a market in Speciality markets for
Pollença (Mallorca) Sales antiques, arts and crafts are
Spain’s twice-annual rebajas popular in Spain, as are the
Opening Hours
(sales) are a fantastic oppor tunity rastros (flea markets). These
Most shops in Spain, barring to find good deals on everything are usually open only at week-
some supermarkets or depart- from shoes and clothes to linens, ends, though the times vary
ment stores, close at midday. electronics and household across markets and towns.
Small shops are usually open goods. Most stores offer a The country’s most
Monday to Saturday reduction of 50 per cent or more. cele brated market is El Rastro
(10am–2pm and 5–8pm). The first rebajas of the year (see p306), a massive flea
Service-related shops, such as begin on 7 January and market in Madrid, which has
dry cleaners, tend to open an continue until mid-February. been running for many
hour earlier and close an hour Summer rebajas start on 1 July gener ations. It is frequented
later. Nearly all shops are closed each year and last until the by locals and tourists alike.
on Sunday and holidays, except end of August. Watch out for pickpockets.
during the Christmas season
and sales.

Payment Methods
Cash is still the payment of
choice in Spain. Cheques are
rarely accepted, and credit
cards may not be accepted in
small shops or markets. Even
in large stores, there may be a
minimum purchase required
for credit card users.
ATMs are widely available
throughout the country, even
in small towns, so getting cash
should not be a problem. Display of hand-painted ceramics in Toledo
Shopping in Barcelona pp190–93; in Madrid pp320–23; in Seville pp460–61


606-607_EW_Spain.indd 606 26/09/17 11:03 am
Eyewitness Travel LAYERS PRINTED:
Practical template “UK” LAYER
(Source v1.6)
Date 7th January 2013
Size 125mm x 217mm

SHOPPING IN SP AIN  607

Regional Products
Spain has a strong artisan
heritage, and the best places to
buy authentic traditional items
are the artisan markets and
speciality shops. All over Spain,
you’ll find great pottery and
ceramics. Spain’s pottery is
sturdy and colourful and each
region puts its own spin on the
traditional forms. Andalucía,
El Bisbal in Catalonia, Paterna
and Manises near Valencia and A Madrid branch of the fashionable Camper shoe store
Talavera de la Reina in Castilla- One-Stop Shopping Fashion
La Mancha are the main
centres for ceramic production. Small family-run shops are Spain has a long textile history,
Leather goods are another quaint, but when you’re in a so it’s no surprise to find good-
traditional craft. Reasonably hurry department stores and quality clothing here. In large
priced shoes, wallets and one-stop shops are more cities such as Madrid and
accessories are available convenient. Spain’s most famous Barcelona, you’ll find bou tiques of
almost everywhere. department store, El Corte major Spanish labels, including
In Toledo, filigree Inglés, is found in every major Antonio Miro, Lydia Delgado,
metalwork and swords city in Spain, sometimes Josep Font, Adolfo Dominguez
are sold on almost with multiple branches. and Loewe. Spanish fashion may
every street corner. This megastore sells not be on par with Paris or Milan
Other sought-after everything from yet, but designers here are
products include clothes and sports increas ingly gaining a reputation
guitars, traditional goods, to furniture for quality and originality.
fans, Lladró and food. Other Spanish-owned chains such as
porcelain figures one-stop shops Zara, Mango and Massimo
and lacework. include hyper- Dutti are known around the
markets such as world for their affordable,
Basketware, sold in all Carrefour (the cutting-edge fashion.
Food and Drink
parts of Spain Walmart of Europe), Mallorca is a good place to
Spain is second only Alcampo and Hipercor. buy shoes, home to Spain’s
to Italy in wine production, American-style malls, called most famous shoe company,
and Spanish wine is rated to centros comerciales in Spain, are Camper. Along with branded
be of the best value in Europe. gaining popularity and can be shoes, espadrilles (traditional
Major wine regions are Penedès found on the outskirts of most Spanish rope-soled shoes) are
(reds, whites and cava), Priorat large cities. a good informal option.
(reds), Rías Baixas (whites),
Ribera del Duero (reds), Rioja Size Chart
(reds) and Toro (whites). Sherry Women’s dresses, coats and skirts
and vermouth are also popular European 36 38 40 42 44 46 48
Spanish drinks. British 8 10 12 14 16 18 20
A gourmet’s paradise, Spain is American 4 6 8 10 12 14 16
great for food shopping. Olives Women’s shoes
and olive oil are always a good European 36 37 38 39 40 41
buy. Promi nent olive-growing British 3 4 5 6 7 8
areas include Andalucía, Aragón American 5 6 7 8 9 10
and southern Catalonia. Seville Men’s suits
produces marmalade from the European 44 46 48 50 52 54 56 58 (size)
countless orange trees that line British 34 36 38 40 42 44 46 48 (inches)
its streets. You can also buy American 34 36 38 40 42 44 46 48 (inches)
Spain’s famous Jamón Ibérico Men’s shirts (collar size)
(Iberian cured ham), or one of European 36 38 39 41 42 43 44 45 (cm)
the many region-specific British 14 15 15½ 16 16½ 17 17½ 18 (inches)
sausages such as Catalan American 14 15 15½ 16 16½ 17 17½ 18 (inches)
butifarra and Castilian morcilla. Men’s shoes
Gourmet chocolate shops European 39 40 41 42 43 44 45 46
can frequently be found in British 6 7 7½ 8 9 10 11 12
cities. Escribà in Barcelona has a American 7 7½ 8 8½ 9½ 10½ 11 11½
good reputation for producing
exquisite confectionery.




606-607_EW_Spain.indd 607 26/09/17 11:03 am

608  SP AIN

ENTERTAINMENT IN SPAIN

Spain is famous for its vibrant, colourful matches, to live flamenco and highbrow
culture – wherever you are, there is usually cultural events. Although Madrid, Barcelona
a fiesta going on somewhere nearby, or and, to a lesser extent, Seville have the
some impromptu celebration taking place widest selection of programmes, the other
in the street. So, while there’s usually no regional capitals are not far behind. The
need to seek out formal entertainment, coastal resorts also witness a lot of action in
those who do want to plan a day or night the summer months. Regular annual events
out will find plenty of choice, ranging from in various parts of Spain are detailed on
raucous cabarets and gripping sporting pages 42–3.


the Spanish music scene is also flamenco that even purists
enriched by influences from admire, try the smaller venues
South America and Africa. or catch a performance during
The Benicassim festival in July an Andalucían fiesta, particularly
and the Sonar festival in June in in the provinces of Seville
Barcelona are the preferred live and Jerez.
events for those in search of new Córdoba hosts the National
music. An international blues fes­ Flamenco Competition in
tival is held every July in Cazorla November every third year.
(see p45), with big international The next two are being held
jazz artists playing in small town in 2019 and 2022.
stadiums and even bullrings.
The Spanish music channel Classical Music, Opera
RNE 3 broadcasts an eclectic
selection of Spanish as well and Ballet
as international music. Opera, classical music and ballet
Preparing for a dressage display at the are performed in all the major
equestrian school in Jerez cities in concert halls. The best­
Flamenco
Traditional Music Flamenco (see pp428–9) is a known venues include the
Auditorio Nacional de Música
and Dance
traditional art form that combines and Teatro Real in Madrid (see
Spain’s rich musical heritage is song, music and dance. Infused p326), Palau de la Música in
marked by typical regional with sensuality and emotion, it Valencia (see p256), Teatro de la
instruments, musical styles originated in Andalucía but is Mae stranza in Seville (see p462)
and dance forms. The txistu, a performed all over Spain. It is a and Gran Teatre del Liceu and
small wind instrument is typical highly varied musical form, and L’Audi tori (see p195) in Barcelona.
to the Basque Country, Galicia acts can range from spontaneous For a more unusual concert
and Asturias lilt to the notes performances in gypsy patios setting, look out for perfor­
of the gaita (bagpipes), while to international spectacles in mances in Spain’s spectacular
Valencia is proud of its countless major concert halls. caves, such as those found in
brass bands. Shows are often adapted to Nerja (see p489), Drac (see p521)
Andalucía is the home tourists’ tastes. To see and hear and the Cuevas of Canelobre
of flamenco, while Aragón’s
rhythm comes from the hop­
step of its folk dance, jota. In
Catalonia, the famous sardana
(see p229) is accompanied by a
flabiol (flute), tabal (drum) and
gralla (a type of oboe).
Jazz, Rock and Pop
Television talent shows tend
to dominate the Spanish pop
indus try, but many creative
bands fail to get international
recog nition only because they
sing in Spanish. At the cultural
crossroads of southern Europe, Palau de la Música, Valencia
Entertainment in Barcelona pp194–9; in Madrid pp324–9; in Seville pp462–3


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ENTER T AINMENT IN SP AIN  609






















View of the stage area at the beautifully preserved Roman theatre in Mérida, Extremadura
Bullfighting
near Alicante. Sacred music can The open-air summer cinemas
still be heard in some of Spain’s in some coastal resorts are Although controversial, bull-
monas teries. Montserrat (see an experience in themselves, fighting is one of Spain’s most
p222–3) is famous for its all-boy but do remember to carry a recognized sporting events (see
choir. In Leyre monastery (see mosquito repellent. pp40–41). Visitors can watch a
p139), the Gregorian plainchant bullfight in one of the large, tradi-
is performed during Mass. tional arenas in Madrid (see p310)
Nightlife and Seville (see p436), or in
Spain’s prodigious nightlife Valencia, Bilbao and Zaragoza.
Theatre starts later than in most other All bull fights start at around 5pm.
Spain has a great repertoire of countries, with 11pm consid- Tickets should be bought directly
classical theatre and, although ered an early start for most at the venue. Bullfighting is
most performances are in revellers. The idea is to spend banned in Catalonia.
Spanish, it may be worth going the first part of the evening in
to a show for the venue alone. pubs or bares de copas: sparsely Entertainment for
Corral de Comedias in decorated drinking dens, usually
Almagro (see p403) is a per fectly with loud music blaring. Then Children
preserved 17th-century Golden people move on to the night- Spain’s big theme parks are Port
Age theatre. Mérida’s stunning clubs, often locat ed out of Aventura, on the Costa Daurada
Roman theatre (see pp58–9 and town, where the noise will not (see p228), Terra Mítica, outside
pp414–5) serves as the splendid bother anyone. Benidorm (see p264), and Parque
backdrop for an annual summer You can enjoy a floorshow Warner, in Madrid. Other amuse-
festival of classical theatre. while dining out at coastal ments suitable for kids include
package-holiday resorts such as the cowboys of Mini-Hollywood
Lloret del Mar on the Costa Brava, (see p504) and the dancing
Cinema Maspalomas on Gran Canaria, horses of Jerez (see p472).
Spain’s thriving film scene Torremolinos on the Costa
has certainly gained inter- del Sol and Benidorm on the
national exposure. The country Costa Blanca.
makes around 100 feature films
a year with directors such as Spectator Sports
Pedro Almodóvar and Alejandro
Amenábar. Football is Spain’s favourite
Most foreign-language films are sport and is centred on the
dubbed in Spanish, but select battle between the two top
cinemas in university cities and teams, Real Madrid and
areas with a number of foreign Barcelona. Other teams with
residents show films in their large followings include
original language. San Sebastián Real Betis from Seville, Deportivo
hosts an acclaimed international La Coruña, FC Valencia and
film festival (see p127) in Atlético de Madrid. Cycling,
September, and the Sitges Film tennis, basketball and golf are Rollercoaster ride at Port Aventura on the
Festival takes place in October. also popular. Costa Daurada




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610  TR A VELLERS ’ NEEDS

OUTDOOR ACTIVITIES &
SPECIALIST HOLIDAYS

Spain is one of Europe’s most geo graphically snow skiing in the Sierra Nevada or water-
varied countries, with mountain ranges, skiing off the coast of Mallorca. Weekend or
woodlands and river deltas suitable for week-long activity-led hol idays, featuring
scenic tours and sports holidays. The options everything from yoga to horse riding, are
are endless and include sailing on the gaining popularity in Spain. To focus on just
Mediterranean or surfing in the Atlantic, one activity, sign up for a specialist holiday.
mountain climbing in the Pyrenees or Local tourist offices can provide information
rambling through the plains of Castille, on outdoor activities.

Walking and Trekking For information on other When it comes to a real thrill,
Spain offers exciting choices trails, contact the Federación nothing surpasses skydiving.
for a challenging week-long Española de Deportes de Reputable companies offering
trek through the Pyrenees, or Montaña y Escalada. skydiving courses or tandem
a gentle walk along the coast. jumps include Skydive
Look out for the wide, well- Air Sports Empuriabrava in Catalonia
marked GR (Grandes Recorridos and Skydive Lillo near Toledo.
meaning “long-distance”) trails, The best way to take in Spain’s Expect a single tandem jump
which crisscross Spain. Though landscape is to view it from (a jump made while attached
most people usually choose above. Options for thrilling aerial to a qualified instructor) to
to walk only a small portion views include hot-air ballooning, cost between €220 and €320.
of each GR trail, long-distance skydiving, para gliding and hang-
trekkers use them to traverse gliding. One of the well-known
all the way across the country. hot-air balloon companies is Water Sports
Nearly 8 per cent of Spain’s Globus Kon­Tiki, which began Spain is virtually surrounded
total terrain is protected park- flying in rural Catalonia and by water, so it is little surprise
land, and the countless natural now covers the whole country. that sailing is popular here. The
parks and 15 large national Glovento Sur operates in country’s most celebrated yacht
parks are the most popular Southern Spain. Standard rides ports are those of up scale
and attractive hiking options. start from €165 per person, resorts including Palma and
Some of the best parks for depending on the trip’s length. Marbella, and in 2007 and 2010
walking include Aragón’s Parque For those who have forever the port of Valencia hosted the
Nacional de Ordesa (see pp236– been fascinated by the birds’ presti gious America’s Cup
7), Catalunya’s Parque Nacional ability to fly, paragliding and sailing tournament. Mooring
d’Aigüestortes (see p215), and hang-gliding are two excellent a private yacht or sailboat in a
Asturias’ Parque Nacional de options. The Real Federación top-notch marina is expensive
los Picos de Europa (see pp112– Aeronáutica Española can and often impossible. A much
13). For details about trails in provide information on schools easier alternative is to rent a
the parks, contact the Environ­ and outfitters across Spain. sailboat by the day or week, or
ment Ministry of Spain. Contact them for further details. to sign up for a half- or full-day
sailing excursion. Most other
seaside towns also have small
recreational ports offering
sailboats and yacht charters
which can be rented by
providing a sailing licence.
For details, contact the Real
Federación Española de Vela.
Scuba diving is available up
and down the coast of Spain
and on nearly all the islands.
However, the best places for
underwater exploration are
around the Canary Islands.
Just off the island of El Hierro
are the warm, calm waters of
the Mar de las Calmas, which
Paragliding above the Vall d’Aran in the eastern Pyrenees is full of colourful coral and




610-613_EW_Spain.indd 610 26/09/17 11:56 am

OUTDOOR A C TIVITIES  611


provide wetsuits and experi-
enced guides – a must for
novices – for €45 per person.
Most services and lodging
are in, or near, the pretty town
of Alquezar.
Another fun way to explore
rivers is whitewater rafting.
Although Spain is not known
for its raging rivers, there
are a few places where some
white water can be found.
Head for the rivers: Noguera
Pallaresa in Catalunya, the
Carasa in Asturias or the
Whitewater rafting in the Spanish Pyrenees Miño in Galicia. Late spring
and early summer are the
dozens of marine species. is now available in many best times for rafting, since
In the Mediterranean, head to Mediterranean resort towns. run-off from melted snow
the Balearic Islands or to the Since rentals are cheap and little ensures a good deal of water
Illes Medes, seven tiny islets prior experience is necessary, and big rapids.
off the Costa Brava that are kayaking is a great option for
home to some of the most boating novices who might
diverse marine life in all the want to spend some time out
Mediterranean. The local Illes on the water.
Medes information office,
Estació Nàutica, will provide
detailed information about Adventure Sports
area outfitters. Since Spain is Europe’s second-
Surfing and windsurfing are most-mountainous country
other popular sports. On main- after Switzerland, mountain
land Spain the best places for climbing is a natural sport
either kind of surfing are the here. Head to the Aragón
Basque coast (especially towns Pyrenees or the Catalan
such as Zarautz and Mundaka) Pyrenees for a wide range of
and Tarifa, which is also good challenging rock faces.
for kitesurfing, on the Costa de Other popular spots include
la Luz. In the Canary islands, the mountain of Montserrat in
try Lanzarote or Fuerteventura Catalonia, the Parque Natural Climbing a sheer rock face in the Parque
for surfing and El Médano de los Cañones y Sierra de Nacional de Ordesa, Aragón
(Tenerife) for windsurfing. El Guara in Aragón, the Sierra
Médano’s Surf Center Playa Sur Nevada in Andalucía and the Fishing
has information. Picos de Europa in Asturias. Deep-sea fishing excursions are
Sea kayaking is becoming For more information, offered all along Spain’s coasts.
very popular and kayak rental contact the Federación Fishing in the Mediterranean
Española de Deportes de or the Atlantic is unregulated
Montaña y Escalada. except for marine reserves and
If mere mountain climbing some parks. Trout fishing in
doesn’t sound interesting lakes and streams is possible;
enough, go for barranquismo some of the best trout rivers
(canyoning), a thrilling adven- are in Asturias, Rioja and Castilla
ture sport that lets you y León. It is challenging to
explore canyons, cliffs and fish in the narrow, tree-lined
rivers with a combination of streams of the Pyrenees.
hiking, climbing, rappelling It is essential to acquire
and swimming. a seasonal or a daily permit
The undisputed capital of specifying if the fishing area is
canyoning is Parque Natural sin muerte (catch and release).
de la Sierra y los Cañones de Bring your own equipment, as
Guara, a park and natural only a few companies offer
area in central Aragón that guided trips. For details on
is home to dozens of “wet” fishing sites and regulations,
Windsurfing near Tarifa, on Southern and “dry” canyons. Outfitters contact Federación Española
Spain’s Costa de la Luz such as Camping Lecina de Pesca y Casting.




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612  TR A VELLERS ’ NEEDS

Cycling Skiing and Naturism
Winter Sports
Road biking and mountain Specially designated nudist,
biking are both popular in Spain’s mountainous terrain or naturist, beaches are not
Spain. Helmets are recom- makes it an excellent place hard to find in Spain. Contact
mended while cycling, for skiing, and resorts here are the various coastal tourist
especially on highways, often cheaper than those in offices for details of nudist
where extreme caution should the Alps or other places in beaches. Alternatively, log
be exercised. Drivers here are Europe. The top ski resorts are on to the official website
not accustomed to sharing the Sierra Nevada in Granada of the Federación Española
the road and accidents on and Baqueira-Beret, in the de Naturismo (FEN), which
highways are not uncommon. Pyrenean Val d’Aran. It is also has a comprehensive list.
The Real Federación Española possible to ski in the Sierra de
de Ciclismo will provide Guadarrama, just north of
useful information as well as Madrid, and in a handful of Specialist Holidays
advice on how to plan a safe other high-altitude areas. A weekend or week-long
cycling excursion. Details are available through specialist holiday provides
Mountain bikers will find the Real Federación Española the luxury of practising a
plenty of trails to keep them de Deportes de Invierno. Visit favourite hobby, or probably
busy pedalling in Spain. Several www.atudem.es for more learning a new one.
walking paths are also suitable information (in Spanish) about Food and wine holidays are
for mountain biking, which are ski resorts. more popular than ever in
referred to as “BTT” (Bici Todo Spain, with its varied cuisine
Terreno or all-terrain bikes; and excellent wines. A grow ing
www.centrosbtt.es). Throughout Birdwatching number of companies – many
Catalunya, Centros BTT are set Spain’s mild climate attracts of them owned by expat British
up to inform bikers about trails a huge variety of fowl year-round. – have opened in recent years,
and conditions. In other regions, In winter, one can observe birds offering everything from tours
where this service is not avail- native to northern Europe; in of well-known wine regions to
able, trail information and maps spring, native Mediterranean the chance to harvest grapes
can be found at tourist offices. species come to nest. There are or olives. For upscale, made-to-
For young or inexperienced numerous natural parks order tours of wine regions all
cyclers, vias verdes (rail trails) working to conserve Spain’s over Spain, contact the Madrid-
are a fantastic option. These diverse bird population. The based company Cellar Tours.
flat, long-distance trails follow top bird-watching site is For daily cooking classes and
the paths of discontinued rail Extremadura’s Parque Nacional an in-depth look at local
lines, ideal for those who want Monfragüe, where big birds of Spanish cuisines and customs,
lovely views without making prey can be seen swoop ing try a cooking holiday like
an effort. Many vias verdes and hunting. Other excellent those offered by the Priorat-
cut through historic towns, places to observe birds in their based Catacurian or the
making interesting pit stops natural habitat are Andalucía’s Málaga-based Cooking
along the way. The Fundación Parque Nacional de Doñana, Holiday Spain.
de los Ferrocarriles Españoles Guadalquivir Delta and Laguna The scenic landscapes of
has detailed information de Fuente de Piedra, and Delta Spain are a wonderful inspir-
about routes. de l’Ebre in southern Catalonia. ation to indulge the artistic
temperament. A painting
holiday offers the chance to
Golf Spas escape to the quiet countryside
Golf is popular throughout Health and wellness spas, and paint. Com panies including
Spain, though most courses can or balnearios, are nothing new Authentic Adventures offer
be found near the coasts and in Spain. As far back as Roman multi-day holidays for artists
coastal resort areas. There are times residents here were of all levels. Holidays include
too many important golfing enjoying the healthy benefits instruction with an experi enced
areas to highlight just one; the of mineral-rich waters along painter as well as practising
Real Federación Española de the Mediterranean or in the independently. Sculpture or
Golf has detailed information interior. Day spas offering a drawing classes are often
on all the courses. Some of the range of beauty and therapeutic available too.
golf courses offer activities for treatments are popular as well, Activity-focused holidays are
non-golfers as well. For year- especially in cities and resorts. a great option as well. Spain’s
round golf, head to the island The Asociación Nacional de pleasant weather is particularly
of Tenerife, where nearly a Estaciones Termales website favourable for walking, biking,
dozen courses, including the (National Association of water-skiing or horseback riding.
beautifully situated Golf Las Thermal Resorts) has details The holiday company On Foot
Américas, are huddled in the on reputable spas throughout in Spain offers a variety of
southern corner of the island. the country. walking holidays in Northern




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OUTDOOR A C TIVITIES  613


Spain, while Switchbacks holiday may be ideal. There are available in many parts of Spain,
Mountain Bike Vacations has some great alternatives for where the Spanish language
cycling holidays for all levels in getting away from the stress can be learned in the best way
Andalucía. For water-sports of daily life, such as Kaliyoga, possible – by immersing
enthusiasts, Xtreme Gene which offers yoga instruction oneself completely in the
specializes in water skiing in a pristine setting. A healthy country’s culture. Language
holidays. Those interested in menu and ample free time for holidays provide the chance
dance can try Club Dance, a hiking or meditating add to to observe the Spanish way of
London-based company offer- the general feel-good factor life from close quarters, for an
ing dancing holidays. Fantasia of a yoga holiday. extended period of time.
Adventure Holidays special izes A specialist holiday is also The Instituto Cervantes has
in horseback riding holidays in a great opportunity to learn information on schools and
Southern Spain. To relax, a yoga Spanish. Language holidays are classes across Spain.
DIRECTORY
Walking and Water Sports Golf Club Dance Holidays
Trekking 42 South Molton Street,
Estació Náutica Golf Las Américas London (UK).
Environment Ministry Calle de la Platja 10–12, Playa de las Américas, Tel 00 44 (0)20 7099 4816.
of Spain L’Estartit. Tel 972 75 06 99. Tenerife. Tel 922 75 20 05. ∑ clubdanceholidays.
Pl Infanta Isabel I, Madrid. ∑ enestartit.com ∑ golflasamericas.com com
Tel 915 97 65 77. Real Federación Cooking Holiday
∑ mma.es Real Federación Española de Golf Spain
Española de Vela Arroyo del Monte 5,
Federación Española Calle Luis de Salazar 9, Urb. Torremar, C/ Roma 9,
de Deportes de Madrid. Tel 915 19 50 08. Madrid. Tel 915 55 26 82. Benalmadena, Málaga.
∑ rfegolf.es
Montaña y Escalada Tel 637 80 27 43.
Calle Floridablanca 84, ∑ rfev.es Skiing and ∑ cookingholiday
Barcelona. Tel 934 26 Surf Center Playa Sur Winter Sports spain.com
42 67. ∑ fedme.es El Médano, Tenerife. Fantasia Adventure
Tel 922 17 66 88. ∑ surf Real Federación Holidays
Air Sports Española de Depor- Calle Luis Braille P21–3A,
center.el-medano.com tes de Invierno Barbate, Cadiz.
Globus Kon-Tiki Tel 913 76 99 30. Tel 610 94 36 85.
Aeródrom Odena – Adventure Sports ∑ rfedi.es ∑ fantasiaadventure
Igualada, Barcelona. Camping Lecina holidays.com
Tel 93 515 60 60. Lecina, Sierra de Guara. Spas Instituto Cervantes
∑ globuskontiki.com Asociación Nacional
Tel 974 31 83 86. Calle Alcalá 49, Madrid.
Glovento Sur ∑ campinglecina.com de Estaciones Tel 914 36 76 00.
Placeta Nevot 4 1°A, Termales ∑ cervantes.es
Granada. Tel 958 29 03 Federación Española Tel 902 11 76 22. Kaliyoga
16. ∑ gloventosur.com de Deportes de ∑ balnearios.org Orgiva, Granada.
Montaña y Escalada Naturism Tel 858 99 58 90 or 00 44
Real Federación See Walking and Trekking.
Aeronáutica Federación Española (0)20 8123 6946 (UK).
Española Fishing de Naturismo (FEN) ∑ kaliyoga.com
Calle Arlabán 7, 3a Planta, ∑ naturismo.org On Foot in Spain
Oficinas 38–39, Madrid. Federación Española Ribeira, A Coruña.
Tel 915 08 29 50. de Pesca y Casting Specialist Holidays Tel 686 99 40 62.
∑ rfae.es Madrid. Tel 915 32 83 52. Authentic ∑ onfootinspain.com
Skydive ∑ fepyc.es Adventures Switchbacks
Empuriabrava Tel 00 44 (0)1453 823328. Mountain Bike
Sector Aeroclub s/n, Cycling ∑ authentic Vacations
Barrio La Ermita s/n,
Empuriabrava, Costa adventures.co.uk Bubion, Granada.
Brava, Catalonia. Fundación de los Catacurian Tel 660 62 33 05.
Tel 972 45 01 11. Ferrocarriles Gratallops 43737, ∑ switch-backs.com
∑ skydive Españoles Tarragona. Tel 977 82 50
empuriabrava.com ∑ viasverdes.com 85. ∑ catacurian.com Xtreme Gene
Xtreme Gene Watersports
Skydive Lillo Real Federación Cellar Tours Complex, Embalse de la
Aeródromo Don Quijote, Española de Ciclismo Calle Zurbano 45, 1°, Breña, 14720 Almodovar
Lillo. Tel 902 36 62 09. Madrid. Tel 915 40 08 41. Madrid. Tel 911 43 65 53. del Río. Tel 957 05 70 10.
∑ skydivelillo.com ∑ rfec.com ∑ cellartours.com ∑ xtreme-gene.com




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SURVIVAL


GUIDE





Practical Information 616–625

Travel Information 626–635





















































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616  SUR VIV AL GUIDE

PRACTICAL INFORMATION

Spain has a highly developed and accommodation, restaurants and leisure
diverse tourist industry that caters to a activities can be found at the oficinas
wide variety of travellers – from eco- de turismo in all major towns. In addition,
friendly backpacking and cultural visits Spanish people are naturally open and
to some of Europe’s most impressive welcoming to outsiders, so the best
heritage sites, to sunseeking at resorts information often comes from the
for all ages and budgets. Information on locals themselves.

Travel Safety Advice
Visitors can get up­to­date
travel safety information from
the Foreign and Common­
wealth Office in the UK, State
Department in the US and the
Department of Foreign Affairs
and Trade in Australia.

Tax­Free Goods
Information
Non­EU residents can claim
back IVA (VAT) on single items
Relaxing on a sandy Spanish beach in summer worth over €90.15 bought in
shops displaying a “Tax Free
When to Go countries, including the USA, for Tourists” sign. Food, drink,
August is traditionally Spain’s Canada, Australia, New Zealand tobacco, cars, motorbikes and
main holiday month. Many and Japan, whose nationals do medicines are exempt from
businesses close for the entire not need to apply for a visa if this. You pay the full price
month, and traffic is very heavy they are visiting Spain for a and ask the sales assistant for
at the beginning and end of this period of up to 90 a formulario (tax­
period. At any time of year, try days. Those who are exemption form).
to find out in advance if your planning longer visits On leaving Spain,
visit coincides with local fiestas than this may apply before you check
– although these are exciting to the Gobierno Civil your bags, ask
attrac tions, they often entail wide­ (a form of local customs officials
spread closures and high prices. government office) to stamp your
for an extension. formulario; this
You will also need must be done with­
Visas and Passports to provide proof of in three months of
Spain is part of the Schengen employment or proof Tax-free goods sign the purchase. You
Agreement, which establishes of sufficient funds to should then receive
a common border for various support yourself during a longer the refund, either by mail or
countries in the European Union. stay. All visitors from countries alternatively from some banks
Visitors from other participating other than those listed above and bureaux de change at
countries will not be asked for are legally required to obtain a the airport (La Caixa bank in
identification upon arrival. visa before travelling to Spain. Barcelona; and Global Refund
However, it is recommended Student visas are available at Termin als 1 and 4 of Madrid
that you carry identification from the country of origin and Airport), either in cash or as a
in any case. In addition, it is give the holder permission to refund to your credit card.
a legal require ment to carry stay until the end of their course.
identification at all times. A valid If you are intending to stay for
passport must be shown upon a long time, it is recommended Tourist Information
arrival from a non­Schengen that you contact your nearest All major cities and towns have
country, including the UK. Spanish embassy several oficinas de turismo. They will
Visas are not required for months in advance. provide tourists with town.
citizens of EU countries, Iceland,
Norway and Switzerland. A list
of entry requirements, available
from Spanish embassies,
specifies more than 40 other Spanish tourist office sign, featuring the distinctive “i” logo




616-617_EW_Spain.indd 616 26/09/17 11:19 am
Eyewitness Travel LAYERS PRINTED:
Practical template “UK” LAYER
(Source v1.6)
Date 7th January 2013
Size 125mm x 217mm

PR A C TIC AL INFORM A TION  617

Admission Prices Travellers with
plans, information about the
locality, and details of activities Admission fees are charged for Disabilities
and events. Several large cities most museums and monu ments, Spain offers a number of
abroad have a Spanish National and prices vary within different options for travellers with
Tourist Office; you can also visit regions, and depending on the special needs. The national
www.spain.info, the official web­ importance of the sight. Some association for the disabled, the
site of the Spanish Tourist Board public museums are free on Confederación Coordinadora
Sundays. Most museums have Estatal de Minusválidos Físicos
free admission coinciding de España (COCEMFE),
Social Etiquette
with national or regional publishes useful guides to
The Spanish often talk to people holidays. Check the individual facilities in Spain and will help
they do not know. Men shake museums’ websites for more plan a holiday to suit individual
hands meeting, and it is detailed information. needs (see p561).
customary for men to greet If you need metro maps
women with a kiss on each and other informative leaflets
cheek – even when first intro­ Opening Hours in Braille, these are available
duced. Friends and family Most museums in Spain from the Spanish national
members embrace or kiss close on Sunday after noon organization for the blind,
upon meeting. You may be and all day Monday. It is the Organización Nacional de
asked to cover legs and wise to check opening Ciegos (ONCE). You will find
shoulders to enter churches times in advance, that tourist offices and
and other monuments. since they can vary the social services
depending on the departments of
time of year. Many town halls are worth
museums often close investigating as they
from 2pm to 5pm; can also provide useful
some reopen from COCEMFE logo up­to­date information
5pm to 8pm. Churches on local conditions
may follow these hours, or and facilities suitable for
they may only be open to the disabled travellers.
public for services. Travel Xperience is a travel
In some smaller towns in agency based in Andorra,
Spain, it is not uncommon for specializing in travel for people
churches, castles and other with reduced mobility. The
sights popular with tourists to UK­based Tourism For All
be kept locked. The key, which (www.tourismforall.org.uk)
is available to visitors on offers information on facilities
request, will be lodged with a for the disabled in a selection of
caretaker in a neighbouring Spanish resorts. The Society
house, in the town hall or, for the Advancement of Travel
A bilingual Basque/Castilian reserved sometimes, kept for safe­ for the Handicapped (SATH)
parking sign keeping at the local bar. publishes similar information
on a number of destinations for
travellers from the US.
Language Taxes and Tipping
The main language of Spain, Spain does not have a big Conversion Chart
Castellano (Castilian), is spoken tipping culture. There is no need
by almost everyone through­ to tip taxi drivers, and waiters are Imperial to metric
out the country. There are only tipped if they go the extra 1 inch = 2.54 centimetres
three main regional languages: mile or if they are having to deal 1 foot = 30 centimetres
Catalan, spoken in Catalonia; with a large group of diners. A 1 mile = 1.6 kilometres
Gallego (Galician) in Galicia; and small service charge is generally 1 ounce = 28 grams
Euskara (Basque) in the Basque added to restaurant bills, 1 pound = 454 grams
Country. Variants of Catalan particularly in tapas bars. A tip 1 pint = 0.6 litre
are spoken in the Valencia of 5 or 10 per cent, depending 1 gallon = 4.6 litres
region and also in the Balearic on the level of service and the
Islands. Learning a few courtesy overall price of the meal, is the Metric to imperial
phrases in Catalan can be a norm in restaurants. VAT of 10 1 millimetre = 0.04 inch
good way to win over the per cent is added to the bill, but 1 centimetre = 0.4 inch
locals in these areas. this is often included in the price 1 metre = 3 feet 3 inches
Places that deal with tourists – of the dishes (this must be 1 kilometre = 0.6 mile
hotels, information offices, stipulated on the menu). VAT of 1 gram = 0.04 ounce
restaurants – usually employ 10 per cent is also added to the 1 kilogram = 2.2 pounds
people who speak English. hotel bill at the end of your stay. 1 litre = 1.8 pints




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618  SUR VIV AL GUIDE

Travelling on a Budget
Travellers looking for budget
accommodation should keep
an eye out for the sign Hostal
or Pensión, which indicates
clean and comfortable rooms
at a fraction of the cost of a
hotel (see also www.hostel
world.com). Most restaurants
in Spain offer a menú del día –
three courses with wine for
as little as €10, and tapas can
be another cheap and filling
option (they even come free
with drinks in some areas).
Children catching small fish with nets, Cala Gracio, Ibiza The Spanish train service is
relatively cheap (see pp628–9).
Travelling with Children Senior Travellers
Prices can vary on popular lines
Spain is a famously child- There are plenty of options for (for example, the Barcelona–
friendly country, and travellers both leisurely and more active Madrid) depending on the
with kids will find that their holidays for senior travellers type and speed of train, so
offspring are usually welcome in Spain. check in advance (www.renfe.
in bars, restaurants and hotels. Health spas have become es). The cheapest, and
It is recommended that you increasingly popular throughout sometimes the quickest,
take a few sensible precautions the country, and they combine way to get around is on the
when travelling with children, relaxation with specific treat- excellent network of coaches.
especially in the summer months. ments using thermal waters Different companies serve
Avoid being out and about (www.balnearios.org). Walking different regions, so check
in the hottest hours of the day tours suitable for senior travellers timetables and prices online
(noon–3pm); apply sunscreen can be found along the country’s (www.alsa.es) or at the tourist
with a high protection factor network of green paths (www. office before travelling.
on your children’s skin regularly viasverdes.com). Hitchhiking is not common
and liberally; always ensure they It is always worth enquiring in Spain, and you should
wear a sunhat with a wide brim; about senior discounts as avoid hitchhiking alone.
and take frequent breaks for some of the larger hotels offer The best and cheapest
refreshments. Visit www. special rates. spectacles in Spain are often
travelforkids.com for a list of found on the streets, especially
travel agents specializing in LGBTQ Travellers during the fiesta mayor of the
child-friendly family holidays. various regions and cities, which
All large hospitals in Spain Attitudes to the LGBT often include processions and
provide a paediatrics service, community vary greatly dancing (see pp42–3).
and pharmacy attendants are between urban and rural areas
trained to provide basic treat- in Spain. All major cities have
ment for minor health thriving gay scenes, with Madrid
complaints. Visit www.spain- and Barcelona boasting gay-
expat.com/spain/infor mation/ friendly areas of town (Chueca
doctors_in_spain for a list of and “Gayxample”) with hotels,
English-speaking doctors. All restaurants and services aimed
public health-care facilities have at LGBT travellers. The Federación
access to interpreters, whether Estatal de Lesbianas, Gays, Tran-
in person or via the phone. sexuales y Bisexuales (FELGTB)
(www.felgtb.org) provides
information for travellers online
and at its local offices in most Hostal sign indicating budget
Spanish towns. accommodation
The Gay Pride parades (www.
cogam.org) have become
major events and are a good Student Information
place to meet people. A law Holders of the International
allowing homosexual couples Student Identity Card (ISIC) are
to marry, adopt children and entitled to various benefits in
enjoy the same rights as Spain, such as discounted
heterosexuals was passed in accommodation and travel fares
Tiled street sign June 2005. as well as reduced entrance




618-619_EW_Spain.indd 618 26/09/17 11:03 am

PR A C TIC AL INFORM A TION  619

Responsible Travel
charges to museums, galleries DIRECTORY
and other attractions. After several decades of rapid
Information for student construction that saw much Embassies
travellers from overseas is of the country’s coastline buried Australia (consulate)
available from national under concrete, Spain has
student organizations and, taken big steps to encourage a Level 24, St Martin’s Tower, 31
in Spain, from INJUVE (www. more sustainable approach Market St, Sydney NSW 2000.
injuve.es). Turismo, Inter cambios to tourism. A series of laws Tel 29 261 2433.
y Viajes Educativos pro hibits any United Kingdom
(TIVE) (www. con struc tion Torre Espacio, Paseo de la
madrid.org/ up to 100 m Castellana 259D, 28046 Madrid.
inforjoven)offers (328 ft) from Tel 91 714 63 00. ∑ gov.uk/
specialist travel the coast line.
services for Tourism, an government/world.spain.es
students in the impor tant source United States
Madrid area. ISIC student card of income, has Calle Serrano 75, 28006 Madrid.
also become more Tel 91 587 22 00. ∑ madrid.
strictly regulated.
Spanish Time Casas rurales, private country usembassy.gov
Spain is one hour ahead of homes that cater to small groups Travel Safety
Greenwich Mean Time (GMT) of tourists in a welcoming family
and, in summer, of British atmos phere, offer a perfect Australia Department of
Summer Time (BST). The Canary option for green travel. Visit Foreign Affairs and Trade
Islands are on GMT in winter www.ecoturismorural.com for ∑ smartraveller.gov.au
and an hour ahead in summer. more details. The Blue Flag
La madrugada refers to the Programme, owned and run UK Foreign and
small hours. Mañana (morning) by the non-profit Foundation Commonwealth Office
lasts until about 2pm and for Environmental Education ∑ gov.uk/foreign-travel-
mediodía (midday) is the part (FEE), lists 550 beaches and 97 advice
of the day from about 1pm to marinas in Spain that comply US Department of State
4pm. La tarde is the afternoon with their strict envir onmental ∑ travel.state.gov/
(until about 9pm) and la noche criteria. Spain has a delicate
the evening (9pm onwards). ecosystem and sev eral areas Spanish Tourist Offices
that are still barely devel oped
for travellers – take extra care Barcelona
Electrical Adaptors
when visiting these spots. Plaça de Catalunya 17, 08002
Spain’s electricity supply is 220 Visitors to Spain can Barcelona. Tel 93 285 38 34.
volts. Plugs have two round encourage sustainable tourism ∑ barcelonaturisme.com
pins. A three-tier standard by using locally owned shops
travel converter enables you to and businesses. Cities are legally Madrid
use appliances from abroad. obliged to have markets in each Plaza Mayor 27 (Casa de la
Most hotels can lend you an district. Elsewhere, go to family- Panadería), 28012 Madrid. Tel 91
adaptor. If you come from owned shops or buy products 578 78 10. ∑ esmadrid.com
the USA, make sure that your at source: most towns have Seville
electrical equipment works at weekend food markets that
this voltage. draw local farmers. Plaza San Francisco 19, Edif.
Laredo, 41004 Seville. Tel 955 471
232. ∑ visitasevilla.es
United Kingdom
6th Floor, 64 North Row, London
W1K 7DE. Tel 00 44 (0)20 7317
2011. ∑ spain.info
United States
60 East 42nd St, Suite 5300
New York NY 10165. Tel 00 1
(212) 265 8822. ∑ spain.info
Disabled Travel
Travel Xperience
Tel 911 87 59 40.
∑ travel-xperience.com
Students enjoy reduced admission fees to many museums and galleries




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620  SUR VIV AL GUIDE

Personal Security and Health your purse or handbag on the
tabletop in a café. Take particular
As in most European countries, it is sensible to be vigilant care at markets, tourist sights
and particularly in cities. The country is generally safe, but and stations. Be especially
certain parts are subject to petty crime so follow the usual careful of pickpockets when
advice. Carry cards and money in a belt, and never leave any­ getting on or off a crowded
train or metro.
thing visible in your car. Taking out medical insurance cover The moment you discover a
is advisable, but pharmacists are good sources of assistance loss or theft, report it to the local
for minor health problems. If you lose your documents, police station. To claim insurance
contact the local police first to make a claim, then your con­ you must do this immediately,
sulate. Emergency phone numbers vary (see box opposite). since many companies give
you only 24 hours. Ask for a
denuncia (written statement),
which you need to make a
Spanish Police
you to the relevant authority in claim. If your passport is stolen,
There are three types of police the event of an incident or if you lose it, report it to
in Spain. The Guardia Civil requiring police help. your consulate, too.
(National Guard) police mainly While tourists remain targets
rural areas. Their uniform is Personal Security and for petty crime in Spanish
olive green, but there are local cities, remember that it is
and regional variations. They Property common for Spanish people
impose fines for traffic offences Violent crime is rare in Spain, but to approach you and strike
outside the cities and police visitors should avoid walking up a conversation, and you
the borders. alone in poorly lit areas. Wear should not let normal
The Policía Nacional, who bags and cameras across your precautions stop you from
mainly wear a blue uniform, body, not on your shoulder. interacting with the locals.
operate in towns with a popu­ Holiday insurance is there to Men occasionally make
lation of more than 30,000. protect you financially from the complimentary remarks
They have been replaced with loss or theft of your property, (piropos) to women in public,
a regional force, the Ertzaintza, but it is always best to take particularly in the street. This
in the Basque Country, and obvious precautions. is an old custom and is not
with the Mossos d’Esquadra in intended to be intimidating.
Catalonia. These can be recog­ What to Be Aware Of
nized by their respective red
and blue berets. Be aware of street scams in large
The Policía Local, also called cities, including unexpected
Policía Municipal or Guardia offers to help with bags, to
Urbana, dress in blue. They clean stains off your clothes or Sign identifying a Cruz Roja (Red Cross)
oper ate independently in each to participate in impromptu emergency treatment centre
town and also have a separate football games. Never leave a
branch for city traffic control. bag or handbag unattended In an Emergency
All three services will direct anywhere, and do not place The nationwide number to use
in case of an emergency (police,
ambulance, fire) is 112. Local
emergency numbers are listed
in telephone directories under
Servicios de Urgencia; they appear
on tourist maps and leaflets, too.
For emergency medical
treatment, call the emergency
services or an ambulance, or go
straight to the nearest hospital
casualty department (Urgencias).
Visit www.jointcommission.
org for a list of hospitals
vetted by the US­based NGO
Joint Commission.

Pharmacies
Spanish pharmacists have wide
responsibilities. They can advise
Guardia Civil Policía Nacional Policía Local and, in some cases, prescribe




620-621_EW_Spain.indd 620 26/09/17 11:57 am

PR A C TIC AL INFORM A TION  621

Travel and
without consulting a doctor. In
a non-emergency, a farmacéutico Health Insurance
is a good option. It is easy to All EU nationals are
find one who speaks English. entitled to short-
The farmacia sign is a green term free emergency
or red illuminated cross. Those health-care cover.
open at night are listed in the To claim, you must
windows of all the local obtain the European Patrol car of the Policía Nacional, Spain’s main urban
pharmacies. Note that Health Insurance police force
perfumerías sell toiletries only. Card (EHIC) from the
UK Department of
Health or a post office
before you travel. The
card gives you free
health cover at all
public Spanish
hospitals. It comes
with a booklet
explaining exactly Policía Local patrol car, mainly seen in small towns
what health care you
are entitled to and
Spanish pharmacy sign how to claim. You may
have to pay and claim
Medical Treatment
the money back later.
In general, the Spanish health Not all treatments
system is modern and efficient, are covered, so for
and it can be relied on for more peace of mind,
emergency treatment. There arrange medical cover
are two kinds of hospitals in in advance. Emergency ambulance in Madrid
Spain: public hospitals (públicos) There is a wide
and private clinics (clínicas range of medical insurance The sign coto de caza in
privadas). For emergency treat- available for travellers to Spain. wood land areas identifies a
ment, go straight to Urgencias Shop around before deciding hunting reserve where you
at any hospital; for less serious because prices vary greatly, as must follow the country codes.
problems, head to a Centro do the levels of cover offered, Toro bravo means “fighting
de Atención Primaria or with some including aspects bull” – do not approach. A
Ambulatorio and ask for the like emergency travel back home camino particular sign indicates
médico de urgencias. or the cost of relatives joining a private driveway. Do not
If you have private health you. Many credit cards also offer approach dogs that are protect-
insurance, you can go to a limited health insurance for ing country properties.
private clinic for normal their users. If you are climbing or hill-
medical complaints. walking, make sure that you are
properly equipped and let some-
Public Conveniences
Legal Assistance Public pay-toilets are rare in one know when you expect
to return.
Some insurance policies cover Spain. Try department stores,
legal costs, for instance after an or bars and restaurants where DIRECTORY
accident. If you are in need of you are a customer. You may
assistance and are not covered, have to ask for a key (la llave), Emergency Numbers
telephone your nearest consulate. and it is best to bring your own Emergency: all services
The Colegio de Abogados tissues. There are also toilets at Tel 112 (nationwide).
(lawyers’ association) of the service stations on motorways.
nearest city can also advise Toilets are most commonly Policía Nacional
you on where to obtain legal known as los servicios. Tel 091 (nationwide).
advice or representation locally. Fire Brigade
If you need an interpreter, Outdoor Hazards (Bomberos)
consult the local Páginas Tel 112 (in most major cities).
Amarillas (Yellow Pages) under Every summer Spain is prey to Ambulance
Traductores or Intérpretes. Only forest fires fanned by winds and Tel 112 (061 in some regions).
Traductores – Interpretes Jurados fuelled by bone-dry vegetation. For other cities’ emergency
(Sworn Translators – Interpreters) Be sensitive to fire hazards and services, consult the local
are qualified to translate legal use car ashtrays. Broken glass telephone directory.
and official documents. Visit can also start a fire, so take your
exteriores.gob.es to find one. empty bottles away with you.




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622  SUR VIV AL GUIDE

Banking and Local Currency

You can enter Spain with any amount of money, but if you
intend to export more than €10,000, you should declare it.
Travellers’ cheques may be exchanged at banks, oficinas de
cambio de moneda (foreign currency exchanges), some hotels
and some shops. Banks generally offer the best exchange
rates. The cheapest exchange may be offered on your credit
or direct debit card, which you can use in ATMs displaying the
appropriate sign.
Banking Hours Cheques and Cards
Spanish banks are beginning The use of travellers’ cheques A 24-hour ATM
to extend their opening times, is declining and it is not always ATMs
but expect extended hours easy to find places to cash the
only at large central branches cheques. Banks also need 24 If your card is linked to your
in the big cities. hours’ notice to cash cheques home bank account, you
Banks are open from 8am to larger than €3,000. can use it with your PIN to
2pm during the week. Some Prepaid VISA and MasterCard withdraw money from ATMs.
open until 1pm on Saturdays. credit cards are a convenient All take VISA and MasterCard.
All close on Saturdays in July way to pay, as are Travel Money When you enter your PIN,
and August; in some areas, Cards. These cards work like instructions are displayed in
they also close on Satur days debit cards. They are available English, French, German and
from May to September. in several currencies from most Spanish. Many dispensers are
banks, and can be reloaded inside buildings and to gain
through their websites. access you will have to run
Changing Money The most widely accepted your card through a door-
Most banks have a foreign cards are VISA, and Master Card, entry system.
exchange desk with the sign although American Express Cards with the Cirrus and
Cambio or Extranjero, which is also used. The major banks Maestro logos can also be
will accept travellers’ cheques will allow cash withdrawals on widely used to withdraw
and cash. Always take your credit cards. All ATMs accept money from cash machines.
passport as identification to most foreign cards, and they
effect any transaction. will often give you a choice of DIRECTORY
You can draw up to €300 on several languages, including
major credit cards at a bank. It English. Most, however, only Foreign Banks
is worth mentioning your travel operate with cards that have an Barclays Bank
plans to your bank and credit electronic chip. Also, the level Calle Velázquez 68, 28001 Madrid.
card company before you go of commission charged on your Tel 913 36 08 67.
away, so that with drawal
your card is not will depend Citibank
blocked by their on your own Calle Velázquez 31, 28001 Madrid.
fraud preven- bank, and some Tel 914 26 07 82.
tion system. Logo for BBVA, the Banco credit cards Lloyds TSB
Bureaux de Bilbao Vizcaya Argentaria may charge an Calle Serrano 90, 28006 Madrid.
change, with additional fee. Tel 902 02 43 65.
the sign Cambio de Moneda or When you pay with a card,
“Change”, may state that they cashiers pass it through a card- Lost Cards and
Travellers’ Cheques
charge no commission, but their reading machine and you
exchange rates are invariably usually need to provide a PIN American Express
less favourable than those found number. In shops you will always Tel 900 81 45 00.
at banks. One benefit is that be asked for additional photo ID.
they are often open outside Make sure you have an original Diners Club
normal banking hours. They are identification document on Tel 902 40 11 12.
usually located in popular tourist hand (photocopies will rarely MasterCard
areas, as well as at airports and do), and note that a driver’s Tel 900 97 12 31 (toll-free from
mainline rail stations. Cajas de licence is not an accepted landlines only).
Ahorro (savings banks) also form of ID in Spain. VISA
exchange money. They open As with the rest of Europe, Tel 900 99 11 24 (toll-free from
from 8:30am to 2pm on week- cards are not always accepted landlines only).
days and also on Thursday after- in smaller bars and restaurants,
noons from 4:30pm to 7:45pm. so take some cash with you.




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PR A C TIC AL INFORM A TION  623


The Euro are known as the Eurozone. structures and monuments.
Spain was one of the 12 Several EU members have The coins, however, have one
countries adopting the euro opted out of joining this identical side (the value side),
in 2002, with its original currency, common currency. and one side with an image
the peseta, phased out in the Euro notes are identical unique to each country. Both
course of the same year. throughout the Eurozone notes and coins are exchange­
EU countries using the countries, each one including able in each of the participating
euro as sole official currency designs of fictional architectural euro countries.

Banknotes
Euro banknotes, each a different
colour and size, come in seven
denom inations. The €5 note (grey in
colour) is the smallest, followed by the
€10 note (pink), €20 note (blue), €50
note (orange), €100 note (green), €200
note (yellow) and €500 note (purple). €5



€10





€20


€50


€100







€200

€500







€2 €1 50 cents 20 cents 10 cents


Coins
The euro has eight coin denominations: €2 and €1
(silver and gold); 50 cents, 20 cents and 10 cents
(gold); and 5 cents, 2 cents and 1 cent (bronze). 5 cents 2 cents 1 cent




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624  SUR VIV AL GUIDE

Communications and Media Internet and Email
Wireless hot spots are available
The telecommunications company Movistar dominates the in all airports, hotels and
industry in Spain, but companies like Orange, Yoigo and conference centres throughout
Vodafone also compete for the mobile-phone market. Despite Spain, although the majority are
the popularity of mobile phones, public telephones are still not free. Credit can be bought
online with a major credit card.
easy to find; most require simply a phone card. The postal The number of Internet cafés
service, Correos, is identified by a blue crown logo on a yellow (cibercafés) in most cities and
background. Correos offices allow you to send registered resorts is dwindling. Locutorios
post and they sell stamps, though most people buy them (privately owned call centres)
from estancos (tobacconists). often provide cheap Internet
access. Also, free Internet
access can be found in
public libraries, some public
Telephoning in Spain
areas (such as Madrid’s Plaza
When calling from a fixed line, Mayor), universities and most
there are four charge bands for restaurants, bars and cafés
international calls: EU countries; offering Wi-Fi service.
non-EU countries and North- The logo of Spain’s main telecom company
west Africa; North and South
America; and the rest of the cheaper and easier to use your Newspapers and
Magazines
world. International calls can be phone abroad than ever before.
quite expensive, especially when If you are visiting from Newsagents in tourist-oriented
made from a hotel, which may outside of the EU, and you’re town centres often stock
add a surcharge. Though now planning to make a lot of calls, periodicals in languages other
harder to find, a call from a phone the best option is to buy a than Spanish. The English-
booth, or cabina, costs 35 per Spanish top-up SIM card, or a language daily newspapers
cent more than from a private handset with a top-up SIM available on publication day are
phone, though using phone- card, at a department store or the International Herald Tribune,
cards, available at tobacconists, specialist phone shop. The most the Financial Times, the Guardian
supermarkets and newsstands, popular providers in Spain are International and the Sun, which
gives much cheaper rates. Most Movistar and Vodafone; each is printed in the south of Spain.
reverse-charge calls must be have their own shops with
made through the operator. experts who can give you
When telephoning Spain from advice. For a simple handset,
abroad, first dial the inter na tional plus SIM card (allowing free
code for Spain (34) followed by incoming calls in Spain), expect
the area code. to pay in the region of €50–€60.
To add more credit to your
phone card, purchase a scratch
Mobile Phones
card from shops and super-
In 2017, the EU ended roaming markets. Alternatively, you can
charges meaning European do it automatically with your
visitors travelling within the credit card by dialling a number
continent (including Iceland, from your phone – check with
Norway and Liechtenstein) can your service provider. Mobile
use their data abroad without phone top-ups are also avail-
incurring charges, making it able at most ATMs. A selection of Spanish newspapers
Useful Spanish Dialling Codes
• When calling within a city, within a province, or to • For operator/directory service, dial 11888.
call another province, dial the entire number. The • For international directories, dial 11825.
province is indicated by the initial digits: Barcelona • To make a reverse-charge (collect) call to
numbers, for example, start with 93; Girona with the UK only, dial 900 961 682. Inexpensive
972; and Tarragona 977. international calls can be made in locutorios, or
• To make an international call, dial 00, then dial call centres. These can be found in most cities
the country code, the area code and the number. and towns. Cheap phone cards can also be
• Country codes are: UK 44; Eire 353; France 33; purchased there.
USA and Canada 1; Australia 61; New Zealand 64. • To report technical faults, dial 1002 (Movistar only).
It may be necessary to omit the initial digit of the • For the speaking clock and for a wake-up call,
destination’s area code. dial 1212 (from Movistar landlines only).






624-625_EW_Spain.indd 624 26/09/17 11:03 am
Eyewitness Travel LAYERS PRINTED:
Practical template “UK” LAYER
(Source v1.6)
Date 7th January 2013
Size 125mm x 217mm

PR A C TIC AL INFORM A TION  625


Several other English-language and Wave96FM (96 FM) from Correos and the town, and
and European titles are also on Malagá on the Costa del Sol. collected from main offices.
the stands, but usually only the All of these stations can also be To send and receive money
day after publication. The most listened to online and are a by post, ask for a giro postal.
widely read Spanish papers are good source of local and
El País, El Mundo, ABC, La Razón international news in English.
and La Vanguardia (in Catalonia). Addresses
Popular weekly news In Spanish addresses, the house
magazines such as Time, Postal Service number follows the name of
Newsweek and The Economist Correos is Spain’s postal the street. The floor of a block
are readily available throughout service. Mail sent within the of flats comes after a hyphen.
the country. same city usually takes a day to Therefore 4-2° means a flat on
Weekly listings magazines for arrive. Deliveries between cities the second floor of number four.
local arts, entertainment and take two to three days. Urgent All postcodes in Spain have five
events are published in or important post can be sent digits, the first two being the
Barcelona (see p194), by urgente (express) or province number.
Madrid (see p324) certificado (registered)
and Seville (see p460). mail. For fast delivery,
Several other Spanish use the Correos Postal Local Government
cities also have their Express Service or Spain is one of Europe’s most
own listings magazines. a private courier. decentralized states. Many
A number of foreign- Post can be powers have been devolved to
language periodicals registered, and the 17 regions, also known as
are published by expa- tele grams sent from comunidades autónomas, which
triates in Madrid and in all Correos offices. have their own elected parlia-
the country’s other main However, it is much ments. These regions have
tourist areas. Some easier to buy stamps varying degrees of indepen-
examples in English from an estanco dence from Madrid, with the
include Metropolitan Spanish postbox (tobacconist). Postal Basques and Catalans enjoying
in Barcelona, Sur on the rates fall into three the most autonomy. The
Costa del Sol, the Costa price bands: Spain; Europe comunidades provide some
Blanca News and the and North Africa; and the services – such as the promo tion
Mallorca Daily Bulletin. rest of the world. Parcels must of tourism, plus education and
be weighed and stamped at health – that were once carried
Correos offices. out by the central government.
Television and Radio
The main Correos offices The country is subdivided
Televisión Española, Spain’s open 8:30am–9:30pm Monday into 50 provinces and two
state television company, to Friday and 9:30am–1pm on autonomous cities (Ceuta and
broad casts on two channels, Sat ur day; outside the cities they Melilla), each with its diputación
TVE1 and TVE2, which run close by 1–2pm on weekdays. (council). The affairs of each of
24 hours a day. Letters sent from a post office the Balearic and Canary islands
Several of the comunidades usually arrive more quickly than are run by an island council.
have their own publicly owned if posted in a postbox (buzón). Every town is administered by
television channels, which In cities, postboxes are yellow an ayuntamiento (town council –
broadcast in the language of pillar boxes; elsewhere they are the word also means “town hall”),
the region. In addition, there small, wall-mounted postboxes. which is then supervised by an
are a few national television Poste restante letters should be elected alcalde (mayor) and a
stations: Antena 3, Tele-5 addressed care of the Lista de team of councillors.
(Telecinco), La Sexta and Cuatro.
Digital TV in Spain is offered
by two companies, Canal+ and
Imagenio. This provides access
to dozens of local channels
and the possibility of watching
programmes in their original
language or with subtitles.
Radio is very popular
throughout Spain and there are
a number of English-language
radio stations based mainly in
the south, including Talk Radio
Europe, which is the largest net-
work, (88.2 FM, 88.9 FM, 105.1 FM,
92.7 FM, 103.9 FM and 104.6 FM) Murcia’s town hall (ayuntamiento or casa consistorial)




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626  SUR VIV AL GUIDE

TRAVEL INFORMATION

Spain has invested heavily in its transport coaches are a faster and more frequent
infrastructure since 2005, creating new option between smaller towns. In much
motorways and high-speed rail networks of rural Spain, public transport is limited,
to connect much of the country. Madrid and a car is the most practical option for
Airport is an important international travel getting about. Spain boasts some beautiful
hub, and new terminals at Malaga and back roads to hidden areas of the country.
Barcelona Airports have been built to cater Ferries connect mainland Spain with the
for the huge influx of passengers. Intercity UK, Italy, North Africa and the Balearic
rail services are reliable and efficient, but and Canary islands.

Green Travel
Public transport in larger cities
has adopted a green focus, and
most buses now run on clean
fuel. Services are generally
excellent, and reasonably
priced. With the opening of the
long-awaited Madrid–Barcelona Aircraft at Ibiza’s airport
high-speed rail link (the AVE), Arriving by Air
Spain now boasts one of Palmas de Gran Canaria, Ibiza,
Europe’s best railway infrastruc- Spain is served by most Málaga, Lanzarote, Alicante,
tures. There are plans for added international airlines and many Fuerteventura and Menorca
links to the Basque region and budget airlines. Its national handle a lot of tourists,
Galicia, and from Northern carrier Iberia offers flights from especially in the summer.
Spain into France. Prices on the most European capitals. British
AVE vary depending on the days Airways flies to Madrid and
you want to travel, and they are Barcelona, as do US airlines Tickets and Fares
much lower if you buy your Delta, United and American Air fares vary by season
tickets online. Airlines. Iberia has a wide- and demand. Special deals,
Some areas of Spain are ranging service from the USA. particularly for city breaks,
still best accessed by road. often run in winter. Look
Car users should consider out for Iberia’s reduced fares
renting hybrid vehicles, now International Airports and for low-cost carriers,
available from major car rental The most regular international such as easyJet and Ryanair
firms. Local and environmentally services operate from Madrid (UK). Vueling offers low-cost
friendly bus services reach and Barcelona. Palma de flights from Spain to other
most areas. Mallorca, Tenerife Sur, Las European countries.

Distance to Taxi Fare to Public Transport
Airport § Information
City Centre City Centre Time to City Centre
Alicante (Alacant) 902 40 47 04 10 km (6 miles) €28 Bus: 20 mins
Rail: 35 mins
Barcelona 902 40 47 04 14 km (9 miles) €35
Bus: 25 mins
Bilbao 902 40 47 04 12 km (7 miles) €26 Bus: 30 mins
Bus: 20 mins
Madrid 902 40 47 04 16 km (10 miles) €35
Metro: 30–40 mins
Rail: 15 mins
Málaga 902 40 47 04 8 km (5 miles) €24
Bus: 20 mins
Palma de Mallorca 902 40 47 04 9 km (5.5 miles) €25 Bus: 15 mins
Las Palmas de 902 40 47 04 18 km (11 miles) €31 Bus: 60 mins
Gran Canaria
Santiago de 902 40 47 04 10 km (6 miles) €28 Bus: 20–30 mins
Compostela
Seville 902 40 47 04 10 km (6 miles) €22–€30 Bus: 25–30 mins
Tenerife Sur – Reina 902 40 47 04 64 km (40 miles) €80 Bus: 60 mins
Sofía to Santa Cruz
Valencia 902 40 47 04 9 km (5.5 miles) €20–€25 Bus: 20 or 60 mins



626-627_EW_Spain.indd 626 26/09/17 11:04 am
Eyewitness Travel LAYERS PRINTED:
Practical template “UK” LAYER
(Source v1.6)
Date 7th January 2013
Size 125mm x 217mm

TR A VEL INFORM A TION  627


Grimaldi Lines has overnight DIRECTORY
journeys to Rome, Livorno
and Sardinia. Airlines
Air Europa
Ferries to the Islands Tel 911 401 501 in Spain.
Frequent crossings run from ∑ aireuropa.com
Barcelona and Valencia to the American Airlines
three main Balearic islands. Tel 902 05 46 54 in Spain.
Acciona Trasmediterránea
ferries take from four hours Tel 800 433 73 00 in USA.
The departures concourse at Seville Airport (using the fast ferry from ∑ americanairlines.es
Barcelona) to eight hours. The
Internal Flights Binter
same company also operates Tel 902 39 13 92 in Spain.
In the past, the majority of frequent inter-island services, ∑ bintercanarias.com
domestic flights were operated while small operators take day-
by Iberia, but now there are trippers (passengers only) from British Airways
other main carriers, such as Air Ibiza to Formentera. Balearia Tel 902 11 13 33 in Spain.
Europa and Vueling. The most also sails to the Balearic Islands Tel 0844 493 0787 in UK.
frequent shuttle service is the from Barcelona and Valencia. ∑ ba.com
Puente Aéreo, run between Acciona Trasmediterránea
Barcelona and Madrid by Iberia operates a weekly service from Delta Air Lines
every 15 minutes at peak times, Cádiz to the main ports of the Tel 913 75 41 46 in Spain.
and half-hourly or hourly Canary Islands, which Tel 800 241 41 41 in USA.
at other times. The normally takes 32 ∑ delta.com
flight generally takes hours. Car ferries link
50 minutes. Vueling the various islands. There Easyjet
and Air Europa services are also passengers-only Tel 902 59 99 00 in Spain.
between Madrid and Acciona services between ∑ easyjet.com
the regional capitals Tras med iterránea logo the islands of Gran
are not as frequent as Canaria, Tenerife and Iberia
the Puente Aéreo, but they Fuerteventura, and between Tel 901 11 15 00 in Spain.
are usually cheaper; book Tenerife and La Gomera. ∑ iberia.com
early to take advantage of Ferries to the islands have
lower fares. Flights between cabins, cafés, restaurants, bars, Ryanair
the Canary Islands are operated shops, cinemas, pools and Tel 0871 246 0000 (UK).
by Binter. Some flights from sunbathing decks. They also ∑ ryanair.com
domestic airports are billed as have facilities for people with United
inter national flights and stop special needs. Entertain ment is Tel 900 81 39 96 in Spain.
over at major Spanish cities provided on mainland crossings ∑ united.com
en route. to the Canary Islands.
Vueling
Arriving by Sea Ferries to Africa Tel 902 80 80 05 in Spain.
∑ vueling.com
Ferries connect the Spanish Acciona Trasmediterránea has
mainland to the Balearic and daily services to the Spanish Ferries
Canary islands, and to North territories in North Africa: from
Africa, Italy and the UK. All the Málaga and Almería to Melilla, Acciona Trasmediterránea
important routes are served and from Algeciras to Ceuta, as Tel 902 45 46 45 in Spain.
by car ferries. Always make an well as from Algeciras and Tarifa ∑ trasmediterranea.es
advance booking, especially to Tangier. Balearia also sails to
in summer. Ceuta and Tangier from Algeciras. Balearia
Three routes link Spain with It maybe worth checking the Tel 902 16 01 80 in Spain.
the UK. Brittany Ferries sails website for up-to-date offers. ∑ balearia.com
between Plymouth in the UK
and Santander in Cantabria. Brittany Ferries
There are also routes linking Tel 0330 159 7000 in UK.
Portsmouth with Santander, Tel 902 10 81 47 in Spain.
and Portsmouth with Bilbao ∑ brittanyferries.com
in the Basque Country. The
crossings take over 24 hours. Grimaldi Lines
Each ship has cabins, chairs Tel 902 53 13 33 in Spain.
to sleep on, restaurants, cafés Balearia car ferry sailing to the ∑ grimaldi-lines.com
and cinemas. The Italian Balearic Islands




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628  SUR VIV AL GUIDE

Travelling by Train DIRECTORY

The Spanish state railway, RENFE (Red Nacional de National Enquiries and
Ferrocarriles Españoles), operates a service that is continually Reservations
improving, particularly between cities. The fastest intercity Luxury Train Club
services are called TALGO and AVE – these names are Benwell House, Preston,
acronyms for the high-speed luxury trains that run on these Chippenham, Wiltshire SN15 4DX,
routes. Largo recorrido (long-distance) and regionales y UK. Tel 00 44124 989 0205.
cercanías (regional and local) trains are notoriously slow, ∑ luxurytrainclub.com
many stopping at every station on the way. They are much RENFE
cheaper than the high-speed trains, but journey times can Tel 902 32 03 20; for information
be hours longer. on disabled access call 902 24
05 05. ∑ renfe.es
Arriving by Train Regional Railways
There are several routes to Spain ET
from France. The main western Tel 902 54 32 10.
route runs from Paris through
Hendaye in the Pyrenees to ∑ euskotren.es
San Sebastián. The eastern route FGC
from Paris runs via Cerbère and Tel 900 90 15 15.
Port Bou to Barcelona. The trains ∑ fgc.net
from London, Brussels, Amster­
dam, Geneva, Zurich and Milan FGV
all reach Barcelona via Cerbère. Tel 961 92 40 00.
At Cerbère there are also ∑ fgv.es
connec tions with the TALGO
and the long­distance services
to Valencia, Alicante, Girona and station for regional and
Murcia. If you book a sleeper on international services. Major
the TALGO from Paris, you travel train terminals pass luggage
to your destina tion without AVE high-speed trains at Estación de Santa through scanners; allow extra
having to change trains. There Justa in Seville time for this.
are direct trains to Madrid and
Barcelona from Paris, and to Seville and with Málaga – both
Barcelona from Milan, Geneva trips take five and a half hours. Fares
and Zurich. The largo recorrido (long­ Fares for rail travel in Spain
distance) trains are so much are structured according to
slower that you usually need the speed and quality of the
Exploring by Train
to travel overnight. You can service. Tickets for the TALGO
Spain offers many options for choose between a cochecama and AVE trains cost the most.
train travellers. The intro duction (a compartment with two or Interrail tickets for people
of high­speed services has four camas, or beds) or a litera, under 26 and Eurail tickets
made it possible to travel the one of six seats in a compart­ for non­EU residents are
long distances between ment that converts into a bunk available from major travel
the main cities extremely bed. You reserve these when agencies in Europe and from
quickly. Ticket prices compare booking and pay a supple­ RENFE ticket offices in Spain.
favourably with the cost of ment. Book at least a month Always take proof of your
high­speed train fares in many in advance. Regionales y identity when booking.
other countries in Europe. cercanías (the regional and local Holidays onboard Spain’s
Efficient high­speed AVE services) are frequent luxury train (see opposite)
rail services link Madrid and cheap. are expensive but offer
with Seville in two In Madrid the high standards of comfort.
and a half hours, major stations for
and with Barcelona Logo for the high- regional and long­
in three hours. The speed rail service AVE distance trains are Regional Railways
AVE from Madrid to Atocha and Chamartín. Three of the comunidades
Zaragoza takes one and a The AVE runs from Atocha, and autónomas have regional rail
half hours; to Málaga two the TALGO from both. Sants companies. Catalonia and
hours and 40 minutes; and to and Passeig de Gràcia are Valencia each has its own
Valladolid only 50 minutes. AVE Barcelona’s two main stations. Ferrocarrils de la Generalitat –
routes also link Barce lona with In Seville Santa Justa is the only respectively, the FGC and the




628-629_EW_Spain.indd 628 26/09/17 11:57 am

TR A VEL INFORM A TION  629

Spain’s Principal RENFE Network Spain’s rail network operates a
FERROL SAN JUAN wide variety of services. Consult
DE NIEVA
GIJÓN a RENFE brochure or train time­
A CORUÑA TRUBIA SANTANDER
LUGO OVIEDO SAN SEBASTIÁN table before buying your ticket.
BILBAO
SANTIAGO DE
PONTEVEDRA COMPOSTELA LEÓN VITORIA PAMPLONA CANFRANC
OURENSE PUIGCERDÀ PORTBOU
TUI BURGOS POBLA DE
LOGROÑO SEGUR
PALENCIA HUESCA
SORIA GIRONA
VALLADOLID ZARAGOZA
OPORTO ZAMORA
LLEIDA BARCELONA
SALAMANCA CALATAYUD
TARRAGONA
GUADALAJARA
AVILA
COIMBRA MADRID TERUEL
PLASENCIA
CUENCA CASTELLÓN
TOLEDO
CÁCERES
VALENCIA
MÉRIDA CIUDAD REAL
LISBON BADAJOZ ALBACETE GANDIA
Key
ALICANTE Main station
CÓRDOBA MURCIA Major rail route
JAÉN
SEVILLA High-speed AVE route
GRANADA AGUILAS CARTAGENA
FARO HUELVA
MÁLAGA
CÁDIZ ALMERÍA
FUENGIROLA
ALGECIRAS
Booking Tickets
FGV; and the Basque Country be bought via the RENFE website,
has the ET (Eusko Trenbideak). Tickets for TALGO, AVE and any which has some cheaper fares,
Tickets for Spain’s luxury train, other largo recorrido and printed out.
similar to the Orient Express, can travel may be Tickets for local and
be obtained from travel agents. bought at any of regional services are
El Trans cantábrico, run by the the major railway purchased from the
Luxury Train Club, travels the stations from the station taquilla. In
1,000 km (620 miles) of Spain’s taquilla (ticket office). larger stations, they
north coast between San They are also sold can be bought from
Sebastián and Santiago de by all travel agents ticket machines.
Compostela. Passengers travel in Spain, who will Tickets for cercanías
in style for eight days in 14 charge a commission. (local services) can-
restored period carriages that RENFE tickets are not be reserved. For
were all built between 1900 sometimes sold a one-way journey,
and 1930. by travel agents in ask for ida, and for a
The regional tourist offices other countries. Ticket machine for local and return, ask for ida y
publicize unusual rail services Tele phone reserva- regional lines vuelta. Return tickets
in their local areas, such as the tions may be made are cheaper.
narrow-gauge lines to Inca and directly to all RENFE ticket offices
Sóller in Mallorca (see p519). with a credit card. Tickets can also
Timetables
RENFE timetables change in May
and October each year. Your travel
agent will be able to provide
the correct times for your train
journey. Timetables can also be
accessed in English via the RENFE
website. In Spain, timetables are
available from RENFE offices. Most
come as leaflets and are broken
down into the various types of
jour ney: intercity, largo recorrido
and regionales. Cercanías time-
tables are posted on boards at
Atocha, one of Madrid’s largest mainline railway stations local railway stations.
628-629_EW_Spain.indd 629 26/09/17 11:57 am

630  SUR VIV AL GUIDE

Travelling by Road

Spain’s fastest roads are its autopistas. They are normally
dual carriageways and are subsidized by peajes (tolls).
Autovías are similar but have no tolls. The carretera
nacional is the countrywide network of main roads or
highways with the prefix N. Smaller minor roads are
generally less well kept, but they are often a more leisurely
and enjoyable way to see rural areas of Spain.

Arriving by Car Buying Petrol
Many people drive to Spain In Spain gasolina (petrol) Cambio de sentido (slip road) 300 m
via the French motorways. and gasoil (diesel) are priced (330 yards) ahead
The most direct routes across by the litre. Gasolina sin plomo Rules of the Road
the Pyrenees, using the (unleaded petrol) is available
motorways, pass through everywhere. All three cost Most traffic regulations and
Hendaye on the western flank more at the autopista service warnings to motorists are
and Port Bou in the east. Other, stations. Self-service stations, represented on signs by easily
rather more tortuous routes where you fill up yourself, recognized symbols. However,
may be used, from Toulouse are common. Modern petrol a few road rules and signs may
through the Vall d’Aran, pumps in Spain are sometimes be unfamiliar to some drivers
for instance. From the UK, operated by credit card. from other countries.
there are car ferries from You should run your To turn left at a busy junction
Plymouth to Santander and card through the machine, or across oncoming traffic, you
from Portsmouth to Santander press the buttons to indicate may have to turn right first and
and Bilbao in northern the amount of petrol cross a main road, often
Spain (see p627). you want in euros, and by way of traffic lights,
then serve yourself. a bridge or an
You must wait for underpass. If you
What to Take
service if there are are accidentally going
A Green Card from your attendants at the the wrong way on a
motor insurance company station. They will ask motorway or a main
is needed in order to extend ¿cuánto? (how much?); Speed limit 50 km/h road with a solid
your comprehensive cover to you should reply lleno (31 mph) white line, you can
Spain. The RAC, AA and Europ (fill the tank), or turn round at a
Assistance have rescue specify an amount sign for a cambio
and recovery policies with in euros: diez euros, de sentido. At
European cover. Spanish por favor. If you crossings, give way
law requires you to carry do use your credit to the right unless
your vehicle’s registration card to pay at a a sign indicates
document, a valid insurance motorway service otherwise. You
certificate and your driving station, you will must wear seat
licence at all times. You must be asked to show Pedestrian belts in both
always be able to show a your passport or crossing sign front and rear seats.
passport or a national identity another form of Oncoming drivers may
card as ID. You must also identification. Gibraltar flash their headlights to mean
display a sticker on the back and Andorra have tax- “you go”, “danger”, “your lights
of the car showing its country free, cheap petrol, so are on unnecessarily”
of registration. The headlights it is worth filling up or “speed
of right-hand drive vehicles before entering Spain. trap ahead”.
need to be adjusted or
deflected. Stickers for this
are available at ferry ports
and on ferries. You risk on-
the-spot fines if you do not
carry a red warning triangle
and a reflective jacket. In
winter, carry chains if you
intend to drive in mountain
areas. In summer, take drinking
water when travelling in
remote areas. A filling station run by a leading chain with branches throughout Spain




630-631_EW_Spain.indd 630 26/09/17 11:04 am
Eyewitness Travel LAYERS PRINTED:
Practical template “UK” LAYER
(Source v1.6)
Date 7th January 2013
Size 125mm x 217mm

TR A VEL INFORM A TION  631

Speed Limits and Fines
Speed limits for cars without
trailers on the roads in
Spain are as follows:
• 120 km/h (75 mph) on
autopistas (toll motorways);
• 100 km/h (62 mph) on
autovías (non-toll motorways);
• 90 km/h (56 mph) on
carreteras nacionales
(main roads) and carreteras
comarcales (secondary roads);
• 50 km/h (31 mph) in
built-up areas.
Speeding fines are imposed
on the spot and are determined
by the speed at which you are
driving; fines range from €6.50
to €12 per kilometre over the Driving through the Sierra Nevada along one of Europe’s highest roads
limit. Fines for other traffic Other Roads
offences (such as turning the Emergency telephones occur
wrong way into a one-way every 2 km (1.2 miles) along Carreteras nacionales, Spain’s
street) depend on the severity the autopistas. main roads, have black-and-
of the offence and often on white signs and are designated
the whim of the police officer. N (Nacional) plus a number.
Tests for drink-driving and Using Autopista Tolls Those with Roman numerals
fines for drivers over the blood If you are travelling on an (NIII) start at the Puerta del Sol
alcohol legal limit, which is 25 autopista, you pick up a in Madrid. The distance from
mg per ml, are now imposed ticket from a tollbooth (peaje) the Kilometre Zero mark in
frequently throughout the as you drive on to it and give the Puerta del Sol (see p276)
country. If driving, it is best it up at a booth as you exit. appears on kilometre markers.
not to drink any alcohol at all. Your toll will be calculated Those with ordinary numbers
according to the distance (N6) have kilometre markers
you have covered. Over giving the distance from the
Motorways some short stretches provincial capital. Some
Spain has more than 2,900 km of motorways near carreteras nacionales
(1,800 miles) of autopistas, and the cities a fixed are dual carriageways,
many more are planned. These price is charged. but most are single-
are generally toll roads and can Tolls can be paid lane roads and can
be expensive to use. You can either in cash or by be slow. They tend
establish whether a motorway is credit card. You must to be least busy from
toll-free by the letters that prefix join one of three Autopista toll 2pm to 5pm.
the number of the road: A = free channels at the peaje booths ahead Autovías are roads
motor way, AP = toll motorway. leading to different built in recent years
The long-distance tolls are booths. Do not drive into to motorway standard to
calculated per kilometre, and telepago, a credit system replace N roads. They have blue
the rate varies from region to for which a chip on your signs similar to autopista signs.
region. Among the busiest and windscreen is required. Because they have no tolls, they
most expensive are the AP7 Tarjetas has machines for are busier than autopistas.
along the south coast from you to pay by credit card, Carreteras comarcales,
Barcelona to Alicante and the while in manual an attendant secondary roads, have
AP68 Bilbao–Zaragoza autopista. will take your ticket and a number preceded by
There are service stations your money. the letter C. Other minor
every 40 km (25 miles) or so roads have numbers
along the autopistas, and they preceded by letters
are marked by a blue and representing the name
white parking sign (P) or a sign of the province, such
indicating the services available. as the LE1313 in
As you approach a service Lleida. In winter,
station, a sign will indicate the watch out for signs
distance to the next one and indicating whether a
will also list its services. Most mountain pass ahead
will have a petrol station, toilets, is open (abierto) or
a shop and a café. The peaje manual channel, with attendant closed (cerrado).




630-631_EW_Spain.indd 631 26/09/17 11:04 am

632  SUR VIV AL GUIDE

Car Hire
The most popular car-hire
companies in Spain are
Europcar, Avis and Hertz.
All have offices at airports and
major train stations, as well as
in the larger cities.
In addition to the inter-
national car-hire companies,
there is a growing number of
low-cost hire firms like
Enterprise, easyCar, pepecar City taxis queuing for fares outside an airport
and hispacar, although you
may need to pick up your car covers) at a scale of 1:400,000 of your windscreen. The cost
some distance from the airport. (1 cm:4 km), sold at bookshops averages about €1–€3 per hour.
You can often get the best and petrol stations. Websites You can usually park for up to
deals by booking in advance www.guiarepsol.com and two hours. Major cities have
online. There are also fly- www.viamichelin.com allow many underground car parks.
drive and other package deals you to plan your route, You collect a ticket when
including car hire available. providing information on you enter and either pay the
Fly-drive, an option for two roads, weather and toll fees. attendant as you drive out, or
or more travellers, can be A series of more detailed pay at a machine which returns
arranged by travel agents and maps at 1:200,000 for cycling your ticket so you can deposit it
tour operators. and walking is published by in another machine at the exit.
If you wish to hire a car Plaza y Janés. Military maps at
locally for around a week or scales of 1:50,000 and 1:100,000 Taxis
less, you will be able to arrange are available from Stanfords
it with a local travel agent. in London and from some Every city and/or region has its
A car for hire is called a coche local and specialist book shops own taxi design and tariffs, but
de alquiler. in Spain, such as Altaïr in all taxis will display a green light
For chauffeur-driven cars Barcelona. Tourist offices if they are free. All are metered;
in Spain, Avis offers deals usually have free street maps. when you set off, a minimum
from major cities. Car-hire You can find detailed street fee will be shown. In smaller
prices and conditions vary maps of central Barcelona on villages, the taxi may be a
according to the region pp184–9, of Madrid on pp312–19 resident driving an unmetered
and locality. and of Seville on pp454–9 of private car – ask at your hotel
this guide. or in a shop for the number of
a recommended local driver.
Parking
Road Conditions and
The arrival of resident-only
parking schemes means that Weather Forecasts
street parking is increasingly For recorded road and traffic
hard to come by in major cities. information, call the national
As a rule, you may not park toll-free number for
Some of the leading car-hire companies where the pavement edge is Información de Tráfico de
operating in Spain painted yellow or where a “no Carreteras. This service is in
parking” sign is displayed. Spanish only. Ask at your hotel
Maps Occasionally there is a reception if you need a
Fold-out road maps can be “no parking” sign on trans lation. The RAC
obtained at airports, on the both sides of a city offers route-planning
ferries and from tourist offices. street, one saying services tailored to
The Spanish Ministry of “1–15” and the other individual require-
Transport publishes a com- “16–30”. This means ments; these may
prehensive road map in book that you can park on include current
form, the Mapa Oficial de one side of the street No parking at any road conditions.
Carreteras. The oil company only for the fort night time of day The weather
Repsol publishes the Guía indicated on the sign. information service,
Repsol, a road map and In the cities, non-metered Agencia Estatal de Metereo­
restaurant guide conveniently on-street parking is rare, but logía, gives forecasts for each
in one book and also available there are blue pay-and-display region, as well as the national
for iPhone and iPad. Michelin parking spaces. To use them, and international weather. It
publishes a useful series of buy a ticket from the machine also gives details on maritime
maps (440–448, with orange and display it on the inside and mountain conditions.




632-633_EW_Spain.indd 632 26/09/17 11:57 am

TR A VEL INFORM A TION  633

Arriving by Coach
Often the cheapest way to Cycling
reach and travel around Spain Cycling is popular in
is by coach. Eurolines operates Spain, and there are
various routes throughout bicycles for hire in most
Europe and runs daily services tourist spots. However,
to Barcelona. Check out the there are few cycle lanes
website for available offers. outside the cities. Bicycles
may be carried on
Coaches from the UK depart cercanías trains after 2pm
from London Victoria Coach on Fridays until the last
Station. Tickets may be bought train on Sunday night; on
from National Express, the any regional train with a Cycle touring, a popular holiday activity
sister company of Eurolines, goods compartment; and
or travel agents. The journey on all long-distance overnight trains. If you need to take your
takes about 24 hours. bicycle long-distance at other times, check it in an hour before
the train departs. You may have to send it as luggage and pay
a baggage charge based on its weight. It might not travel with
you, so you will have to collect it when it arrives.

particular regions – Alsina
Graells, for instance, covers
most of the south and east of
Spain. Tickets and information
Alsa, a regional coach service for long-distance travel are
available at all main coach
Travelling Around Spain stations as well as from travel
by Coach
agents, but note that it is not Indicators for Seville’s circular bus routes
There is no Spanish national always possible to book tickets
coach company, but private in advance. Local Buses
regional compa nies operate In Madrid the biggest coach Local bus routes and time-
routes around the country. The stations are Estación Sur and tables are posted at bus
largest coach company is Alsa, Intercambiador de Autobuses. termini and stops. You pay
which runs in all regions and Always check which coach on the bus or buy a card
has routes and services that station your bus is due to with preloaded trips
cover most of the country. leave from when you purchase called an abono from
Other companies operate in your ticket. estancos (tobacconists).
DIRECTORY
Car Hire hispacar Weather National Express
∑ hispacar.com Forecasts ∑ nationalexpress.com
Avis
Tel 0808 284 0014 in UK. pepecar Agencia Estatal Coach Stations
Tel 902 18 08 54 in Spain. ∑ pepecar.com de Meteorología Barcelona
∑ avisworld.com ∑ aemet.es Estació del Nord, Calle Ali
∑ avis.es Maps Traffic and Road Bei 80. Tel 902 26 06 06.
easyCar Altaïr Conditions ∑ barcelonanord.com
∑ easycar.com Gran Vía 616, 08007 Madrid
Enterprise Bar celona. Información de Estación Sur, Calle
Tráfico de Carreteras
∑ enterprise.co.uk Tel 93 342 71 71. Méndez Álvaro 83.
Tel 011 from a landline. Tel 91 468 42 00.
Europcar Guía Repsol ∑ dgt.es/es/el-trafico ∑ estacionauto
Tel 0871 384 1087 in UK. ∑ guiarepsol.com busesmadrid.com
Tel 902 50 30 10 in Spain. Michelin Coach Operators Intercambiador de
∑ europcar.co.uk Alsa Autobuses, Avenida de
∑ europcar.es ∑ viamichelin.es Tel 902 42 22 42. América 9.
Stanfords ∑ alsa.es Seville
Hertz Estación Plaza de Armas,
Tel 0207 026 00 77 in UK. 12–14 Long Acre, Eurolines Calle Cristo de la Expiración.
Tel 91 749 77 78 in Spain. London WC2E 9LP. Tel 08717 81 81 77 in UK. Tel 955 03 86 65.
∑ hertz.co.uk Tel 020 7836 1321. Tel 902 40 50 40 in Spain. ∑ autobusesplaza
∑ hertz.es ∑ stanfords.co.uk ∑ eurolines.com dearmas.es




632-633_EW_Spain.indd 633 26/09/17 11:57 am

634  SUR VIV AL GUIDE

Getting Around Cities little of interest for tourists.
Three more lines are planned
Sightseeing and getting around in Spain’s cities is best done in the coming years.
on foot and by public transport – try to avoid driving a car
into the city centres. Barcelona, Valencia and Madrid all have Buses and Trams
efficient underground (metro) systems, as well as overground Buses in Spain can sometimes
railways that link up with the suburbs and airports. Madrid follow an erratic timetable
also has a metro service from the airport to the city. Good city and many do not run after
maps are available from tourist offices, or they can be printed 10pm, although there are
out from the Internet. Municipal websites (www.bcn.cat for some night buses.
Barcelona; www.madrid.es for Madrid; www.valencia.es for In Barcelona the T10 and
T-2Dies tickets are valid on
Valencia; and www.sevilla.org for Seville) provide up-to-the- buses and trams, on the metro
minute information in English on travelling in the cities. and on trains to the airport.
Bus, tram and metro tickets in
Madrid, including tourist tickets,
are interchangeable. If you do
not have a ticket, you can pay
the driver directly. Most buses
run from 6am until 11:30pm.
Night buses (called buhos) run
less frequently and always pass
by the Plaza de Cibeles. The price
is the same as for day tickets.
Valencia has a good bus
network, and buses are the
preferred way of travelling
for locals. If you are out and
about a lot during the day, get
a ten-journey bono (voucher).
You can view a map of the
Walking on Las Ramblas, Barcelona routes on the EMT website
(www.emtvalencia.es). The
Metro stations or at the airport. The tram runs from the Pont de
The best way to see Barcelona metro runs every day from Fusta (Wooden Bridge), near
over a couple of days is to buy 6am to 1:30am. the Serrano Towers, around the
a T10 ticket. Once you validate a The Metro de Valencia, city and to the beaches at Las
T10, you can make 10 combined operated by Ferrocarrils de la Arenas and La Malvarrosa.
journeys on the metro, buses, Generalitat Valenciana (FGV), is Buses are the easiest and
trams and local trains for 75 best used to get to and from cheapest way to get around
minutes. The more expensive the beach, since it does not go Seville and to the main sights.
T-2Dies gives you unlimited near the town centre. It also The bus network is comprised
transport for two days until the tends to skip other important of circular (C-1, C-2, C-3, C-4,
end of service. The Barcelona destinations, such as the City C-5 buses) and line routes
metro run by Metro de of Arts and Sciences. The metro (north, south, east and west).
Barcelona is open from 5am to will also get you to many places
midnight Sundays to Thursdays, around Valencia, beyond the Trains
until 2am on Fridays and for 24 city centre. A metro ticket to
hours every Saturday. any station within the city limits If you are heading out of
Metro de Madrid is the third- is the same price. Barcelona to nearby beaches or
oldest system in Europe (1919) Metro de Sevilla’s first line mountains, you can take a train
after London and Paris. Its 13 opened in 2009, linking the from Plaça Catalunya, Passeig
lines serve the whole city and centre with the city’s outlying de Gràcia, Estació de França
are divided into various zones suburbs, and as such it is of or Estació de Sants. The local
depending on different areas of relatively little relevance to overland train services are
the city and surrounding area. visitors – these areas contain run by Ferrocarrils de la
You can buy a single ticket for Generalitat de Catalunya
Zona A or a ten-journey ticket; (FGC) and the main
this allows travel on both line trains are run by
metro and buses. Tourist tickets RENFE (see p628). T10
providing between one and and T-2Dies tickets can
seven days’ unlimited travel also be used on local
can be purchased at train One of Barcelona’s taxis trains within the city area.




634-635_EW_Spain.indd 634 26/09/17 11:57 am

TR A VEL INFORM A TION  635


and the summer, shade is
highly prized. In summer
months the city government
stretches tarpaulins across
the buildings in the centre
so that many of the streets
Madrid bus are in the shade.
Madrid’s rail system is comfort­ Taxis are a good option for
able, economical and efficient. short journeys in Valencia. Cycling
The 13 lines all leave from or There is a minimum fee during Cycling tours are a popular
pass through Atocha station, the day and fares are higher at way of seeing Barcelona, and
and trains run daily from 6am night; extra fees apply for its cycle lanes provide safe
until midnight every 15–30 trips to the airport. access to most of the city.
minutes. Consorcio Regional Seville’s taxis provide a viable Visit www.bikerentalbarcelona.
de Transportes de Madrid way of getting into town, com or contact the tourist
provide helpful information on although much of the city office to hire bikes.
routes, fares and tourist tickets. centre is difficult to access by For those wishing to explore
car because of heavy traffic, Madrid, www.bravobike.com
especially during the Feria de offer a wide variety of city
Taxis Abril or Semana Santa fiestas. bicycle tours, some of which
Barcelona’s distinctive yellow­ As elsewhere, the tariff is higher include the surrounding areas.
and­black taxi cabs can be for journeys at night. There are many cycle lanes
relied upon for a good and in Valencia, and cycling tours
reasonably priced service, provide a great way of seeing
although it is rare to find a driver Walking all the major sights. More
who speaks English. The meter Barcelona is an excellent city information can be found
begins running with a set fee to explore on foot. The Old at www.doyoubike.com.
and will rise every kilometre. Town (Ciutat Vella), near the Seville is home to Sevici, a
Be aware that the tariff rises port and up to the Plaza fleet of bicycles that can be
at night and on Saturdays, Catalunya, consists of narrow hired on subscription. Visit
Sundays and public holidays. medieval streets and winding www.sevici.es for details. (For
There are supplements added alleyways. It is easy to get lost more on cycling see p633.)
to your taxi fare when arriving in this area, and care should
at or leaving the airport, port or be taken here at night. Las DIRECTORY
train station; for each piece of Ramblas is one of the world’s
luggage; and also after 10pm on most famous walkways and Metro
Fridays, Saturdays and holidays. offers a vibrant slice of Metro de Barcelona
The taxis in Madrid are white Mediterranean street life. The
with a diagonal red band on the Eixample area is also good for Tel 902 07 50 27.
front doors. A lit green light on walking, with large boulevards ∑ tmb.cat
top of the taxi indicates that it is in a grid pattern. If you need Metro de Madrid
available. Finding a taxi in the to get your bearings, simply Tel 902 44 44 03.
downtown area of Madrid is ask a local which direction is ∑ metromadrid.es
relatively simple and should mar (sea, to the south) and
take only a few minutes. The which is montaña (mountain, Metro de Valencia
taxi meter starts its fare with a to the north). Tel 900 46 10 46.
flat fee, the bajada de bandera Distances are considerable ∑ metrovalencia.es
(lowering of the flag). After that, in Madrid, and it is advisable to Metro de Sevilla
the meter runs according to the combine walking with public Tel 902 36 49 85.
distance covered, the urban transport to make more
area, the day of the week (higher efficient use of your time in ∑ metro-sevilla.es
fares apply on holidays) and the the city. The most popular Public transport
pick­up point (there are higher areas to visit on foot are those
fares for pick­ups in bus stations, around the emblematic Plaza FGC (Barcelona)
train stations and the airport). Mayor and the city’s most Tel 900 90 15 15.
The night fare is always higher famous park, El Retiro, which ∑ fgc.net
than the day fare. All additional is also near the most well­
fares should be indicated on known museums. Consorcio Regional de
informational signs on the back Most sights in the centre Transportes de Madrid
windows. There is an extra of Seville are best reached Tel 915 80 42 60, or 012
charge for pick­ups and drop­ on foot. The popular Barrio from Madrid.
offs at Barajas Airport, but there Santa Cruz should be visited ∑ ctm-madrid.es
is no extra charge for luggage. with a map. During late spring




634-635_EW_Spain.indd 635 26/09/17 11:57 am

636  GENER AL INDEX

General Index

Page numbers in bold refer to Albarracín 200–201, 245 Alfonso IX, King of León
main entries. restaurants 590 captures Cáceres 412
La Alberca 360 Universidad (Salamanca) 364
A Albornoz, Alonso Carrillo de 396 Alfonso X the Learned, King of
Abd al Rahman I, Caliph 56, 57, 486 L’Albufera 248, 258 Castile
Abd al Rahman II, Caliph 56, 486 Albuquerque 414 Cantigas 59
Abd al Rahman III, Caliph 481 Alcalá de Henares 336–7 and the Castilian language 38
Los Abrigos 538 restaurants 593 Ciudad Real 403
Abu-l-Hasan, Sultan 498 Alcalá del Júcar 384, 399 poetry 334
Accessories shops 192, 193 Alcalá la Real 488 Alfonso XI, King of Castile,
Madrid 322, 323 Alcalá de la Selva 244 Monasterio de Santa Clara
Accident or Self-Portrait (Ponce de Alcañiz 243 (Tordesillas) 370
León) 302 Alcántara 55, 414 Alfonso XII, King of Spain 75
Acebo 408 Alcanyis 256 portrait 68
Aceúche, fiestas 409 Alcaraz 400–401 statue 301
Acuario de Sevilla 463 La Alcarria 386–7 Alfonso XIII, King of Spain
Acueducto de los Arcos (Teruel) 245 Alcazaba (Almería) 505 abdication 68, 69
Addresses, postcodes 625 Alcazaba (Málaga) 56–7 Hotel Ritz by Belmond (Madrid)
Adeje 538 Alcázar (Jerez de la Frontera) 472 290
Admission prices 617 Alcázar (Segovia) 348–9, 350 marriage 294
The Adoration of the Magi Alcázar (Toledo) 393, 394 Palacio Real (Madrid) 280
(Campaña) 358 Alcázar de los Duques de Feria portrait 75
The Adoration of the Shepherds (Zafra) 417 and Primo de Rivera 69
(El Greco) 296 Alcázar de los Reyes Cristianos Santander summer palace 117
Adrian of Utrecht 62 (Córdoba) 17, 483 Algeciras 478
Adventure sports 611, 613 Alcázar de San Juan 398 restaurants 598
Africa, ferries 627 Los Alcázares 266 Algorta 123
Agaete 547 Alcocer, restaurants 596 Alhama de Granada 489
Agres 263 Alcoi 247, 263 Alhambra (Granada) 10, 17, 28, 58,
Agriculture 32–3 festivals 42, 44, 259 421, 426–7, 465, 496–7
New World crops 63 Alcossebre 251 Alhóndiga (Bilbao) 122
Agüero 238 Alcoy see Alcoi Ali ben Yusuf 279
Aguilar 17, 488 Alcúdia 520 Alicante (Alacant) 11, 16, 262,
Aguilar, Marquises of 373 Alella wine region 206–7 264–5
Aguilar de Campoo 373 Alemán, Rodrigo 361 airport 626
Águilas 267 Alexander VI, Pope 258–9 hotels 567
Aigüestortes, Parc Nacional d’ Alfàbia 519 restaurants 591
34, 211, 215 Alfonso I, King of Aragón 386 Alicante province 247
Aínsa 235 Alfonso I, King of Asturias 56 Alicante wine region 206–7
hotels 567 Alfonso II, King of Aragón All Saints’ Day 43, 46, 47
restaurants 590 captures Teruel 244 Allariz 102
Air sports 610, 613 Monasterio de Piedra 242 Almadén 403
Air travel 626–7 Puigcerdà 216 hotels 570
Airlines 626–7 Santiago de Compostela cathedral Almagro 403
Airports 626 96 festivals 45
Ajuntament (Barcelona) 148, 151 tomb of 226 hotels 570
Alacant see Alicante unites Catalonia and Aragón 58 restaurants 596
Alaior, restaurants 603 Alfonso III, the Great, King of Almansa 400
Alange Asturias Almansa wine region 344–5
hotels 571 casket of 356 Almería 505
restaurants 597 Zamora city walls 360 restaurants 598
Alarcón 399 Alfonso VI, King of Castile Almería province 465
hotels 570 captures Toledo 58 Almodóvar, Pedro 25, 26
Álava 119 and El Cid 374 Women on the Verge of a Nervous
Alba, Duchess of 290 and Madrid 273 Breakdown 309
Alba, Dukes of 365, 504 Puerta Antigua de Bisagra Almodóvar del Río 481
Alba family 308 (Toledo) 395 Almohads 58
Alba de Tormes 365 Alfonso VIII, King of Castile architecture 426–7
Albacete 400 Alarcón 399 Almonacid del Marquesado, fiestas
hotels 570 Battle of Las Navas de Tolosa 58 47, 391
restaurants 595–6 La Caballada (Atienza) 391 Almonacid de Toledo, hotels 570
Albacete province 383 Real Monasterio de Huelgas Almond trees 33
Albaicín (Granada) 494–5 (Burgos) 375 Almonte, restaurants 599





636-666_EW_Spain.indd 636 26/09/17 11:04 am

GENER AL INDEX  637




Almoravids 58 Antequera 481 El Argar civilization 52
architecture 426 restaurants 599 Argüelles (Madrid), nightlife
Almuñécar 489 Antique shops 328–9
Alonso, Fernando 26 Barcelona 192, 193 Arguineguín, hotels 575
Alonso Martínez (Madrid), nightlife Madrid 321, 323 Arias, Eugenio 332
328–9 Seville 461 Arias, Rodrigo 365
Álora 480 Anual, Battle of (1921) 69 Arizkun 138
Alpuente 252 Aoiz, restaurants 585 Armada 63, 93
Las Alpujarras 490–91 Apartment hotels 560 Arnedillo 133
Alquézar 239 Apes’ Den (Gibraltar) 478 Arrecife 553
hotels 567 April Fair (Seville) 44, 437 Arrieta, hotels 575
Altamira Caves see Cuevas de Aquariums Arriondas, restaurants 583
Altamira Oceanografic (Valencia) 16, Arroyo de la Luz 414
Altea 262, 264 257 Arroyuelo 115
Alto Campoo 115 Palma Aquarium 523 Art 36–7
Alto Turia 252 San Sebastián 126 Art holidays 612, 613
Álvarez family 391 Aqueduct (Segovia) 55, 368, 369 Art Nouveau 29
Amadeo I, King of Savoy 67, 75 Aqüeducte de les Ferreres 229 Barcelona 163
Amandi 111 Arabs 56 Modernisme 144–5
Amargós, Josep 159 Aracena, hotels 572 Art shops
Amaya, Juana 429 Aracena, Sierra de 468 Barcelona 192, 193
Ambulances 620, 621 Aragón 230–45 Madrid 321
Amenabar, Alejandro 25 climate 49 Artenara 549
L’Ametlla de Mar, restaurants 589 fiestas 243 restaurants 604
Amposta 229 food and drink 204–5 Arties 214
Ampudia hotels 567 restaurants 588
hotels 569 map 232–3 Artium (Vitoria) 130
restaurants 594 restaurants 590–91 Arts, performing 25–6
Ampuero, restaurants 583 Aragón, River 139 see also Cinema; Dance; Music;
Ampurias see Empúries Aramón Cerler 235 Theatre
Amusement parks Aranda de Duero 381 Arure, restaurants 604–5
Tibidabo (Barcelona) 182, 196, 197 restaurants 594 Assumption Day 43, 45, 47
see also Theme parks; Water parks Aranjuez, restaurants 593 Astorga 356
Anarchism 51, 68–9, 71 Aranjuez, Palacio Real de 337 restaurants 594
Anaya, Diego de, tomb of 364 Arantza 138 The Road to Santiago 86
Anciles, restaurants 590 Arantzazu 128 Astún 234
Al Andalus 51, 56–7 Arazas, River 236 Asturias and Cantabria 104–17
Reconquest 58–9 Arc de Berà 229 climate 48
Andalucía 464–505 Arc del Triomf (Barcelona) 158 fiestas 114
climate 48 Arce, Martín Vázquez de 386 food and drink 80
fiestas 469 Arches, Moorish 427 hotels 562–3
food and drink 422–3 Archidona 481 map 106–7
hotels 572–4 Architecture 28–31 restaurants 583–4
Madrid and Moorish Spain: castles of Castile 348–9 Wild Spain: Cantabria, Asturias and
Granada, Córdoba and Seville 10, Modernisme 144–5 Galicia 11, 15
17 Moorish 426–7 Atapuerca, restaurants 594
map 466–7 Mudéjar 59 Ateneo de Madrid 295
restaurants 598–602 Romanesque churches 87 Atienza 386
Andorra 211, 216 Archivo de Indias (Seville) 13, 440, fiestas 391
Andorra la Vella 216 445 ATMs 622
Andratx 518 ARCO (Madrid) 47 Augustus, Emperor
Andújar 500 Arco de Santa María (Burgos) 374 captures Cantabria and Asturias
fiestas 469 Arcos de la Frontera 474, 475 54
Aneto 235 hotels 572 and Lugo 103
Angelico, Fra, The Annunciation 297 El Arenal (Seville) 432–37 Mérida 414, 415
Anglès, restaurants 588 area map 431 Ausetan tribe 224
Anguiano hotels 571 Auto-da-fé in the Plaza Mayor (Ricci)
fiestas 136 restaurants 597 278
hotels 563 street-by-street map 434–5 Autol 133
Anís 581 Ares del Maestre 250 Autumn Landscape in Oldenburg
The Annunciation (Fra Angelico) 297 Arévalo 369 (Schmidt-Rottluff) 293
Año Nuevo 47 restaurants 594 Autumn in Spain 46
Ansó 234 Arévalo, Luis de 493 fiestas 43





636-666_EW_Spain.indd 637 26/09/17 11:04 am

638  GENER AL INDEX


Ávila 12, 366–7 Banys Àrabs (Palma) 523 Bartolomé de Jaén, Maestro 492, 499
hotels 569 Baqueira-Beret 215 Basílica de la Macarena (Seville) 450
restaurants 594 Baras, Sara 429 Basílica de Nuestra Señora del Pilar
Ávila province 351 Barbarossa 526 (Zaragoza) 240–41
Avilés 109 Barbastro 239 Basílica Pontificia de San Miguel
Ayllón 369 Barceló, Miquel 521 (Madrid) 274
Ayna 401 Barcelona 140–99 Basilica de Sant Francesc (Palma)
Ayub 242 2 Days in Barcelona 12–13 523
Ayuntamiento 625 Barcelona and the Mediterranean Basílica de Santa María (San
Ayuntamiento (Arcos de la Frontera) Coast by Train 11, 16 Sebastián) 14, 126
475 Barri Gòtic 148–9 Basílica de Santa Maria del Mar
Ayuntamiento (Carmona) 482 cathedral 143, 148, 152–3 (Barcelona) 157
Ayuntamiento (Seville) 444 coach stations 633 Basílica de la Virgen de los
Azahar, Costa del see Costa del Azahar Eixample 162–71 Desamparades (Valencia) 254
Azca (Madrid), nightlife 329 entertainment 194–9 Basketball 26
Aztecs 62 exhibitions 68, 69 Basque Country, Navarra and La
Azuaga 417 fiestas 44, 45, 46, 161, 194, 196 Rioja 118–39
Azulejos (ceramic tiles) 28, 426, 444 Further Afield 178–82 Bilbao and the Basque Lands 11, 14
hotels 564–5 climate 49
B Introducing Barcelona 142–3 Communist demonstrations 68–9
Bacon, Francis 122 Jewish community 150 fiestas 136
Badajoz 416 Montjuïc 172–7 food and drink 81
hotels 571 nightlife 198–9 hotels 563–4
Badajoz province 405 Old Town 146–61 Kingdom of Navarra 134
Baena 488 Olympic Games 27, 73 map 120–21
Baetica (Roman province) 54 Picasso in 157 restaurants 585–6
Baeza 421, 502–3 El Prat Airport 626 Basques 23, 119
restaurants 599 Quadrat d’Or 164–5 culture 129
street-by-street map 502–3 La Rambla 143, 154–5 ETA 71, 72
Bagur see Begur restaurants 586–8 Guernika-Lumo 122–3
Baiona (Bayona) 100 Sagrada Família 170–71 independence movement 27
hotels 562 shopping 190–93 language 119, 617
restaurants 582 Spanish Civil War 70 literature 38
La Bajada de la Virgen de las Nieves Street Finder 183–9 Bassá, Ferrer 181
(Santa Cruz de la Palma) 540 street-by-Street map: Barri Gòtic Virgin and Child 36
Bakio 123 148–9 Battle of the Flowers (Laredo) 114
Balàfia 515 street-by-Street map: Montjuïc Las Batuecas 360
Balboa, Vasco Núñez de 417 174–5 Bayeu, Francisco 306
El Balcón de Europa 489 street-by-Street map: Quadrat d’Or tapestry designs 310
Balcón de Mediterráneo (Benidorm) 164–5 Bayona see Baiona
264 transport 634–5 Bayonne Treaty (1386) 59
Balearic Islands 508–9, 510–31 transport map see inside back cover Beaches
climate 49 Barcelona Football Club 180, 181 Costa Blanca 262
ferries 627 Barcelona province 211 Costa Brava 221
fiestas 527 Barceloneta (Barcelona) 12, 160 Costa del Sol 478–9
hotels 574–5 Bárcena Mayor 105, 106, 115 Bears, brown 108
Ibiza (Eivissa) 514–16 Bárdenas Reales 134 Beatus of Liébana, St 114, 216, 219
Mallorca 518–25 Baroja, Pío 39, 68 Becerra, Gaspar 356
map 508–9 Baroque architecture 29, 67 Bechtold, Erwin 515
maps 512–13 Baros, hotels 567 Bécquer, Gustavo Adolfo 450
Menorca 526–31 Barranc d’Algendar 527 Bed and breakfast 559, 561
regional food 517 Barranco de Guayadeque 548 Beech forests 84
restaurants 602–4 Barranco del Infierno 538 Beer 581
Ballet 608 Barri Gòtic (Barcelona) 11, 12, 148–9 Begur (Bagur) 221
Balloons, hot-air 610 nightlife 198, 199 hotels 565
Bañaderos, restaurants 604 street-by-street map 148–9 restaurants 588
Banderilleros 41 Barri Xinès (Barcelona) 154 Béjar 361
Banks 622 Los Barrios, restaurants 601 Belaguer, José María Escrivá de 239
Baños Árabes (Jaén) 499 Los Barruecos Natural Park 414 Belalcázar 482
Baños de Cerrato 372 Barruera 215 Belchite 243
Baños de la Encina 500 Bars 576 Belén, Ana 73
Baños de Montemayor 408 Barcelona 198–9 Belmonte 348, 398–9
El Bañuelo (Granada) 493, 495 Madrid 324–5, 327, 328–9 Benalmádena Costa 479
Banyoles, restaurants 588 Seville 463 restaurants 599
Banyoles, lake 217 tapas bars 579 Benasque 235





636-666_EW_Spain.indd 638 26/09/17 11:04 am

GENER AL INDEX  639


Benavente, restaurants 594 Blanca of Navarra 133 Buigas, Gaietà 160
Benedict XIII, Pope 251 Blancafort, Gabriel 524 Buitrago del Lozoya 332
Benedictine order Blanes 220 Bullfighting 25, 26, 40–41, 609
accommodation 561 Blay, Miquel 217 Bullfighting Museum (Antequera)
Monastir de Montserrat 222–3 St George 156 481
Benet, Joan 39 Blues Cazorla 45 Museo Taurino (Madrid) 310
Benicarló 251 Boabdil 60, 61, 493, 497 Plaza de Toros (Antequera) 481
Benicàssim 251 Bocairent 263 Plaza de Toros de la Maestranza
Benidorm 264 hotels 567 (Seville) 434, 436, 463
beach 262 Bodas de Isabel de Segura (Teruel) Plaza de Toros de Las Ventas
Benimantell, restaurants 591 245 (Madrid) 304, 310, 325, 327
Bera (Vera) 138 Bodega Alvear (Montilla) 488 Ronda 477
hotels 563 Bodega Pérez Barquero (Montilla) Bullrunning (Pamplona) 136
Berbers 56, 57 488 Bulnes 112
Berceo, Gonzalo de 38 Bodegas 577 Buñol, fiestas 252–3, 259
Berenguer, Francesc 182 Bodegas Barbadillo (Sanlúcar de Buñuel, Luis 360, 408
Berga, fiestas 225 Barrameda) 472 El Burgo de Osma 381
Berlanga de Duero 381 Bofill, Guillem 218–19 restaurants 594
Bermejo, Bartolomé 36 Bofill, Ricardo 160, 177 Burgohondo, hotels 569
St Dominic of Silos Enthroned as Boí-Taüll 215 Burgos 374–7
Abbot 298 Bolnuevo 267 cathedral 341, 376–7
Bermeo 123 Bonaparte, Joseph see José I hotels 569
Berruguete, Alonso, Natividad 371 Bonastre, Maestro de 256 map 375
Berruguete, Pedro de 36, 298 Bookshops restaurants 594
Besalú 217 Barcelona 192, 193 Burgos province 351
restaurants 588 Madrid 322, 323 “Burgos trials” 71
Betancuria 550 Seville 461 The Burial of the Count of Orgaz (El
Betanzos 92 La Boqueria (Barcelona) 190 Greco) 36, 392, 394
restaurants 582 Borges, José Luis 39 Buses 633, 634
Béthencourt, Jean de 550 Borgoña, Juan de 397 Butterflies, Vall d’Aran 214
Beuys, Joseph 177 Borja, Cesare 370 El Buzo (Seville) 435
Biasteri see Laguardia Borja, Juan de 502
Biblioteca de Catalunya (Barcelona) Borja, St Francis 259 C
154 Borja (Borgia) family 258–9 Ca Na Costa 516
Biblioteca Nacional de España El Born (Barcelona) 157 La Caballada (Atienza) 391
(Madrid) 291 Borrassa, Luis 36 Caballé, Montserrat 26, 195
Bicycle hire 633 Borredà, hotels 565 Caballero Bonald, José Manuel 39
Bielsa 237 Bort, Jaime 266 Caballo, Luis 493
fiestas 243 Bosch, Hieronymus 256 El Cabañal beach (Valencia) 257
Bienal de Arte Flamenco (Seville) 46 The Garden of Delights 296 Cabañeros National Park 35, 391
Bienvenida, Antonio 310 Prado (Madrid) 299 Sa Cabaneta, fiestas 527
El Bierzo 354 Bossòst 214 Cable cars
Bierzo wine region 344–5 Botticelli, Sandro 299, 492 Fuente Dé 113
Bigarny, Philippe de 372, 377 Bourbon dynasty 65, 66, 68, 74 Parque Nacional del Teide 542–3
Bilbao (Bilbo) 122 Castell de Montjuïc 177 Cabo Fisterra 89, 93
airport 626 restoration of 75 Cabo de Gata, Parque Natural de
Bilbao and the Basque Lands 11, 14 Bourbon Madrid 286–303 421, 505
festivals 45 area map 287 Cabo de Palos 267
hotels 563 hotels 568–9 Cabo Tinoso 267
Museo Guggenheim 124–5 restaurants 592–3 Cabo de Trafalgar 474
Bilbao (Madrid), nightlife 328–9 Bourgeois, Louise, Maman 124 Cabopino 479
Binibeca 512, 530 Bous en la Mar (Dénia) 259 Cabranes, hotels 562
Birds Breakfast 576 Cabrera 511, 521
L’Albufera 258 Breña Baja, hotels 575 Cabrera, Archipiélago de 34, 521
birdwatching 612 Brenan, Gerald 491 Cabuérniga, Valle de see Valle de
Central Spain 346–7 Brihuega 387 Cabuérniga
Delta de l’Ebre 229 Briñas, hotels 563 Cáceres 405, 412–13
Lagunas de Ruidera 401 Briviesca 373 hotels 571
Parque Nacional de Monfragüe Bronze Age 52 restaurants 597
410 Brown bears 108 street-by-street map 412–13
Parque Natural de Cabo de Gata Brueghel, Pieter the Elder 285, 299 Cáceres province 405
505 Bubión, restaurants 599 Cadalso 115
Tablas de Damiel 403 Budget travel 618 Cadaqués 211, 220, 221
Bizkaia see Vizcaya Buen Amor, castle of 365 hotels 566
Blai, Pere 151 Buigas, Carles 175, 177 restaurants 588





636-666_EW_Spain.indd 639 26/09/17 11:04 am

640  GENER AL INDEX


Cadí-Moixeró 216 Campaña, Pedro de, The Adoration Carbonero, José Moreno 39
Cádiar 491 of the Magi 358 Cardona 224
Cádiz 473 Campin, Robert 299 hotels 566
festivals 43, 47, 469 Campisábalos 386 Cardona, Dukes of 224
history 53 Campo, Juan del 492 Carducho, Vicente 284, 333
hotels 572 Campo del Agua 354 Cares, River 112
restaurants 599 Campo de Borja wine region 206–7 Cariñena 243
Cádiz province 465 Campo de Criptana 383, 398 Cariñena wine area 206–7
Caesar, Julius 54 Campo del Moro (Madrid) 272, 279 Carlist Wars 66, 67, 68
Café Gijón (Madrid) 295, 324, 325 Camprodon 217 Carlos I, King of Spain see Charles V
Cafés Canalejas, José 69, 276 Carlos II, King of Spain
Madrid 324–5, 327, 328–9 Canales, Antonio 429 death 65
Seville 463 Canary Islands 508–9, 532–55 portrait 74, 110
La Caixa 244 climate 49 Carlos III, King of Spain 66, 75
CaixaForum (Barcelona) 177 ferries 627 Archivo de Indias (Seville) 445
CaixaForum (Zaragoza) 241 fiestas 540 becomes king 67
Cala ’n Bosch, restaurants 604 Fuerteventura 550–51 expels Jesuits 66, 276
Cala Morell, hotels 575 Gran Canaria 546–9 Illa de Tabarca 265
Cala en Porter, restaurants 604 hotels 575 Museo del Prado (Madrid) 296
Cala Salada (Ibiza) 510 International Music Festival 47 Palacio Real (Madrid) 280, 281
Calaceite, hotels 567 Lanzarote 552–4 Paseo de la Castellana (Madrid)
La Calahorra (Elx) 265 map 508–9 310
La Calahorra, Castillo de (Andalucía) map: Eastern Islands 544–5 Paseo del Prado (Madrid) 288
499 map: Western Islands 534–5 Plaza Cánovas del Castillo (Madrid)
Calatañazor 381 maps 19, 21 290
Calatayud 242 regional food 541 Plaza Mayor (Madrid) 277
wine region 206–7 restaurants 604–5 portraits 299
Calatrava, Santiago 257 Tenerife 538–43 Puerta de Alcalá (Madrid) 291
Calatrava la Nueva 402–3 volcanoes 555 Puerta del Sol (Madrid) 276
Caldera de la Bandama 548 Cancho Roano 416 Real Jardín Botánico (Madrid) 301
Caldera de Taburiente National Park Candas 108 statue of 301
35, 536 Candela, Felix 257 tomb of 137
Calderón, Rodrigo 277 Candelada, hotels 569 Carlos III the Noble, King of Navarra
Calderón de la Barca, Pedro 38, 64, Candelaria 539 134
65, 416 fiestas 540 Carlos IV, King of Spain 66, 243
Caldes de Boí 215 Candelario 361 The Family of King Charles IV (Goya)
Caldes d’Estrac, restaurants 588 Canedo, restaurants 594 37
Calera de León 417 Cañete 387 Palacio Real (Madrid) 280
Cales Coves 528–9, 530 Cangas de Onís 15, 111 Palacio Real de Aranjuez 337
Sa Caleta 514 fiestas 114 portraits 75, 280
Caleta de Fuste 551 hotels 562 Carlos V, Emperor see Charles V,
Calle Mateos Gago (Seville) 441 restaurants 583 Emperor
Calle de Serrano (Madrid) 300 Cano, Alonso 308, 491, 492, 500 Carlos de Viana, Prince 134
Calle de las Sierpes (Seville) 444 Caños de Meca, hotels 572 Carmen, statue of 434
Callejón del Agua (Seville) 441 Cánovas del Castillo, Antonio 68, Carmona (Andalucía) 10, 13, 17, 482
Callosa D’en Sarria, fiestas 46 290 hotels 572
Es Caló 516 Cantabria see Asturias and Cantabria restaurants 599
hotels 574 Cantabrian mountains 115 Carmona (Cantabria) 105, 115
Caló de Sant Agusti, restaurants 602 El Cantar del Mío Cid 38, 374 Carnival 43, 47
Sa Calobra 519 Cantavieja 250 Bielsa 243
Calp (Calpe) 263 Canyoning 611 Cádiz 469
hotels 567 Cap de Cavalleria 527 Santa Cruz de Tenerife 540
The Calvary Cáparra 408 Carracedo del Monasterio 355
(van der Weyden) 335 Capek, Karel 38 Carratraca 480
Cámara Oscura (Seville) 452 Capilla Real (Granada) 17, 492 Carreño, Juan 110
Camariñas 93 Capocorb Vell 520–21 Carrer Montcada (Barcelona) 158
Cambados 99 El Capricho (Comillas) 115, 145 Carrera del Darro (Granada) 495
hotels 562 Car hire 632 Carreras, José 26, 195
restaurants 582 Carantoñas (Aceúche) 409 Carrero Blanco, Admiral 71
Cambrils 228 Caravaca de la Cruz 267 Carrión de los Condes 372
restaurants 588 restaurants 591 restaurants 594
Camino del Rey (Garganta del Caravaggio 298 Cars 630–32
Chorro) 480 David Victorious over Goliath 299 see also Tours by car
Camp Nou (Barcelona) 180 Caravans 561 Cartagena 11, 16, 267
Camp sites 561 Carboneras, restaurants 599 hotels 567





636-666_EW_Spain.indd 640 26/09/17 11:04 am

GENER AL INDEX  641


Carthaginians 51, 52, 53, 267 Castilla-La Mancha (cont.) Castles (cont.)
Cartuja de Miraflores (Burgos) 375 map 384–5 Pedraza de la Sierra 369
Casa de l’Ardiaca (Barcelona) 148, restaurants 595–7 Peñafiel 349, 371
150 Castles Peñaranda de Duero 353, 380
Casa Batlló (Barcelona) 13, 144, 145, Alarcón 399 Ponferrada 355
168 Alcalá de la Selva 244 Sagunt 253
Casa de Campo (Madrid) 306 Alcañiz 243 Salobreña 489
Casa de Cervantes (Valladolid) 371 Alcazaba (Almería) 505 Salvatierra 403
Casa de Colón (Las Palmas de Gran Alcazaba (Málaga) 56–7, 480 Sanlúcar de Barrameda 472
Canaria) 548 Alcázar del Rey Pedro (Carmona) Santueri (Felanitx) 521
Casa de las Conchas (Salamanca) 482 Simancas 371
28, 362, 365 Alcázar (Jerez de la Frontera) 472 Tarifa 474
Casa de la Condesa Lebrija (Seville) Alcázar (Segovia) 348–9, 350, 368, Valderrobres 244
444 369 Valencia de Alcántara 414
Casa de Dulcinea (El Toboso) 398 Alcázar (Toledo) 393, 394 Vélez Blanco 504
Casa de los Golfines de Abajo Almodóvar del Rio 481 Xàtiva 258
(Caceres) 412 Almuñécar 489 see also Palaces
A Casa José Saramago (Lanzarote) Antequera 481 Castrillo de Murcia, fiestas 372
553 Arévalo 369 Castro, Rosalia de, Museo Rosalia de
Casa Milà see La Pedrera Bellver (Palma) 523 Castro (Padrón) 98
Casa Modernista (Novelda) 264 Belmonte 348, 398 Castro de Coaña 108
Casa de las Muertes (Salamanca) Berlanga del Duero 381 Castro Urdiales 15, 117
365 Buen Amor 365 restaurants 583
Casa-Museo de Cervantes (Alcalá de Buitrago del Lozoya 332 Castropol 15, 108
Henares) 337 La Calahorra 499 Cástulo 500
Casa-Museo de Lope de Vega Calatañazor 381 Catalan independence movement
(Madrid) 294 Calatrava la Nueva 402–3 27, 70
Casa-Museo de Martín Alonso Caravaca de la Cruz 267 Catalan language 216, 617
Pinzón (Palos de la Frontera) 469 Castell del Papa Luna (Peníscola) Catalans 23
Casa de Pilatos (Seville) 13, 444–5 251 Catalayud, restaurants 590
Casa Terrades (Barcelona) 165, 169 Castile 348–9 Catalonia (Catalunya) 210–29
Casa de los Tiros (Granada) 492–3 Castillo de la Concepción climate 49
Casa Vicens (Barcelona) 145, 168 (Cartagena) 267 fiestas 225
Casals, Pau 195 Castillo de Gibralfaro (Málaga) 480 food and drink 204
Museu Pau Casals (El Vendrell) 228 Castillo de los Guzmanes (Niebla) hotels 565–7
Casas, Father Bartolomé de las 62 468 map 212–13
Casas rurales 559, 560 Castillo de la Mota (Medina del restaurants 588–90
Cash dispensers 622 Campo) 348, 370 Cathedrals
Casino, Murcia 266 Castillo San Gabriel (Arrecife) 553 Albacete 400
Casón del Buen Retiro (Prado) 301 Castillo de San José (Arrecife) 553 Albarracín 245
Castelao, Alfonso 98 Castillo de Santa Bárbara (Alicante) Almería 505
Castelar, Emilio 68 16, 264, 265 Astorga 356
Es Castell, restaurants 604 Castillo de Santa Catalina (Jaén) Ávila 366–7
Castell dels Tres Dragons 499 Badajoz 416
(Barcelona) 159 Castillo de Santa Cruz de la Mota Baeza 503
Castellar de la Frontera, hotels 572 (San Sebastián) 126 Barcelona 12, 143, 146, 148, 152–3
Castelló de la Plana 251 Castillo de la Yedra (Cazorla) 501 Bilbao 122
fiestas 44 Chinchilla de Monte Aragón 400 El Burgo de Osma 381
Castellón 247 Citadel (Jaca) 235 Burgos 341, 374, 376–7
Castile, Kingdom of 58 Citadel (Pamplona) 137 Cádiz 473
Castile and León, Kingdom of 58, 59 Coca 348, 369 Ciudad Rodrigo 361
Castilian see Spanish language Dénia 259 Ciutadella 526
Castilla y León 350–81 Guadalest 263 Córdoba 487
castles of Castile 348–9 Hondarribia 127 Coria 409
climate 48 Javier 139 Cuenca 389
fiestas 372 Jerez de los Caballeros 417 Girona 218–19
food and drink 342–3 Keep (Gibraltar) 478 Granada 17, 492
hotels 569–70 Loarre 238–9 Guadalajara 387
map 352–3 Manzanares el Real 336 Guadix 499
restaurants 594–5 Medina de Pomar 373 Huesca 239
Castilla-La Mancha 382–403 Monterei (Verín) 101 Ibiza 515
climate 49 Montjuïc (Barcelona) 142, 177 Jaca 235
fiestas 391 Onda 252 Jaén 499
food and drink 343 Oropesa 391 Jerez de la Frontera 472
hotels 570–71 Palacio Real de Olite 135 León 28, 61, 340, 358–9





636-666_EW_Spain.indd 641 26/09/17 11:04 am

642  GENER AL INDEX


Cathedrals (cont.) Caves (cont.) Césareo de Arles, San 133
Lleida 224 Cuevas de Águila 366 Chagall, Marc 220
Logroño 133 Cuevas de Altamira 11, 15, 52, 53, La Chanca (Almería) 505
Lugo 103 116 Charco, Fiesta del (San Nicolás de
Madrid (de la Almudena) 279 Cuevas de Nerja 489 Tolentino) 540
Málaga 480 Cuevas de Santimamiñe 123 Charlemagne, Emperor
Mondoñedo 92 Gruta de las Maravillas 468 Battle of Roncesvalles 56, 138
Murcia 16, 202, 266 Guadix 499 Girona cathedral 219
Orihuela 265 Ramales de la Victoria 117 Charles V, Emperor (Carlos I) 63, 309
Ourense 102 St Michael’s Cave (Gibraltar) 478 Alcázar (Toledo) 393, 394
Oviedo 15, 110 Yesos de Sorbas 504 and Baeza 503
Palencia 372 Cazalla de la Sierra 482 coronation 62
Palma 522, 524–5 Cazorla empire 62
Las Palmas de Gran Canaria 548 festivals 45 El Escorial 335
Pamplona 136–7 hotels 572–3 homage to Tarazona 240
Plasencia 409 Parque Natural de 501 illegitimate son 161
Roda de Isábena 240 restaurants 599 Monasterio de Yuste 409
Salamanca 362, 364 O Cebreiro (O Cabreiro) 103 Palace of Charles V, Alhambra
Santander 117 The Road to Santiago 86 (Granada) 496–7
Santiago de Compostela 15, 89, Cedeira 92 Palacio Real (Madrid) 281
95, 96–7 restaurants 582 portrait 74
Santo Domingo de la Calzada 132 Cehegín 267 Real Alcázar (Seville) 446
Segovia 368 Cela, Camilo José 39, 386 Simancas castle 371
La Seu d’Urgell 216 Celanova 101 Charles Martel, King of the Franks 56
Seville 13, 440, 442–3 Cella 245 Cheeses
Sigüenza 386 Celts 52 Manchego 342, 579
Soria 381 Castro de Coaña 108 Northern Spain 80
Tarazona 233, 240 Monte de Santa Tecla 100 Chelva 252
Tarragona 229 O Cebreiro 103 Cheques 622
Teruel 59, 244, 245 Cenobio de Valerón 547 Chestnut forests 85
Toledo 341, 393, 396–7 Central Spain 338–417 Children
Tortosa 229 birds 346–7 entertainment 609
Tudela 134 Castilla y León 350–81 travelling with 618
Tui 100–101 Castilla-La Mancha 382–403 Chillida, Eduardo 123
Valencia 16, 254–5 Extremadura 404–17 The Comb of the Winds 126
Valladolid 371 map 340–41 Toki-Egin 303
Vic 224 regional food 342–3 Chillón 403
Vitoria 14, 130 wines 344–5 Chinchilla de Monte Aragón 400
Zamora 360 Centre de Cultura Contemporània Chinchón 337
Zaragoza 241 (Barcelona) 154 fiestas 294
Catholic Church 25 Centre Excursionista de Catalunya hotels 569
Inquisition 278 (Barcelona) 149 restaurants 594
religious art 36 Centre Pompidou Málaga 480 Chipiona 472
Catholic Monarchs see Fernando II, Centro Cerámica Triana (Seville) 452 Chopin, Frédéric 518
King of Aragón; Isabel I, Queen of Cercedilla 333 Christianity 55
Castile Cercle de Pessons 216 Reconquest 58–9
Cava 580, 581 Cerdà i Sunyer, Ildefons 144, 163 Christmas 43, 47
Es Cavallet 514 Cerdanya valley 216 Christus, Petrus, The Virgin of the Dry
cave dwellings 31 Cereal farming 32 Tree 292
Caves Cermeño, Juan Martín de 160 Chueca (Madrid), nightlife 328–9
Albarracín 245 Ceroni, Juan Antonio 364 Churches
Cales Coves 528–9, 530 Cerralbo, 17th Marquis of, Museo opening hours 617
Coves d’Artà 513, 521 Cerralbo (Madrid) 308 Romanesque architecture 87
Coves del Drac 521 Certamen Internacional de see also Cathedrals; Convents;
Coves dels Hams 521 Habaneras y Polifonía (Torrevieja) individual towns and cities;
Coves de Sant Josep 252 45 Monasteries
Les Covetes dels Moros 263 Cervantes, Miguel de 337 Churriguera brothers 29, 362
Cueva del Buxu 111 Archivo de Indias (Seville) 445 Arco de la Estrella (Cáceres) 412
Cueva de El Monte Castillo 116 Casa de Cervantes (Valladolid) 371 Iglesia-Convento de San Esteban
Cueva de los Letreros 504 Casa-Museo de Cervantes (Alcalá (Salamanca) 364
Cueva de Montesinos 401 de Henares) 337 Medina de Rioseco altarpiece 371
Cueva de Tito Bustillo 111 Don Quixote 38, 64, 398, 399 Plaza Mayor (Salamanca) 364
Cueva de Valporquero 356 statue of 284 Real Academia de Bellas Artes de
Cueva de los Verdes (Jameos del Cervatos 115 San Fernando (Madrid) 285
Agua) 554 Cervera de Pisuerga 373 San Cayetano (Madrid) 306





636-666_EW_Spain.indd 642 26/09/17 11:04 am

GENER AL INDEX  643


Churrigueresque architecture 29 Cobos, Francisco de los 500, 501 Comunidad Valenciana 245, 247
El Cid 374 Coca, Castillo de 348, 369 Comunidades 625
captures Alpuente 252 Cocido madrileño 342 Conca de Barberà wine region
captures Valencia 58 Cock and hen of St Dominic 132 206–7
epic poems 38 Coello, Claudio 37, 285, 364 El Condado 468
Puerta Antigua de Bisagra Coffee 580 Condado de Huelva wine region 424
(Toledo) 395 Cola de Caballo 237 The Condesa Mathieu de Noailles
statue of 374 El Colacho (Castrillo de Murcia) 372 (Zuloaga) 122
tomb of 377 La Colegiata (Santillana del Mar) 116 Congosto de Ventamillo 235
and Valencia 254 Colegiata Real (Roncesvalles) 138 Congreso de los Diputados (Madrid)
Cider Festival (Nava) 45 Colegiata de San Isidoro (León) 357 288, 295
Cigales wine region 344–5 Colegiata de San Isidro (Madrid) Conil de la Frontera 474
Cíjara 410 275, 276 Conquistadors 62–3
Cinco Villas 234 Colegiata de Santa María (Toro) 360, Constable, John 309
Las Cinco Villas del Valle de Bidasoa 361 Constantina 482
138 Colegio de Fonseca or de los Constantine I, Emperor 55
Cinema 25, 609 Irlandeses (Salamanca) 365 Constitution Day 47
Barcelona 196, 197 Colegio del Patriarca (Valencia) 255 Consuegra 25, 31, 398
Madrid 326, 327 Colegio de San Ildefonso (Alcalá de festivals 46
San Sebastían Film Festival 46, 127 Henares) 336–7 Convents
Spaghetti Westerns 504 Coll 215 accommodation in 561
Cintruénigo, restaurants 585 Collage (Miró) 37 Convento de las Dueñas
Cirauqui 135 Collet, Charles 223 (Salamanca) 363, 365
Circo de Gredos, hotels 569 Colmenar Viejo 336 Convento de Regina Coeli
Cisneros, Cardinal 61, 277, 337 Colossus of Rhodes (Dalí) 37 (Santillana del Mar) 107
Cistercian Order 103, 561 Columbus, Christopher 148, 410 Convento de San Domingos de
“Cistercian triangle” 225, 226 Archivo de Indias (Seville) 445 Bonaval (Santiago de
Ciudad Encantada 387 Barcelona Cathedral 152 Compostela) 88, 94
Ciudad Real 403 Burgos 374 Convento de Santa Paula (Seville)
Ciudad Real province 383 Casa de Colón (Las Palmas de 450
Ciudad Rodrigo 361 Gran Canaria) 548 Convento de Santa Teresa (Ávila)
restaurants 596 death 370 367
Ciudad de Vascos 391 explorations 51, 60, 61 Convento de las Úrsulas
Ciutadella (Ciudadela) 526 festival (Huelva) 469 (Salamanca) 365
fiestas 527 and Huelva 468 Conversion chart 617
restaurants 604 Monasterio de la Rábida 468 Copa del Rey MAPFRE 45
Ciutat de les Arts i de les Ciències Monasterio de Santa María de las Córdoba 13, 483–7
(Valenica) 16, 257 Cuevas (Seville) 452 fiestas 45, 46, 469
Ciutat Flamenco festival (Barcelona) Monument a Colón (Barcelona) hotels 573
196 154, 160 Madrid and Moorish Spain:
Clarín, Leopoldo Alas 39, 110 and Palos de la Frontera 469 Granada, Córdoba and Seville 10,
Classical music 608–9 Pinta 100 17
Barcelona 195, 197 Plaza de Colón (Madrid) 300 Mezquita 57, 420, 465, 485, 486–7
Madrid 326, 327 return to Spain 150 Moors 56
Seville 462–3 San Sebastián (La Gomera) 537 restaurants 599–600
Classical Theatre Festival (Mérida) 45 Sanlúcar de Barradeda 472 street-by-street map 483–4
Claude Lorrain 299 Santa María 536 Córdoba province 465
Clavé, Josep Anselm 156 statues of 142, 468 El Cordobés 481
Clement X, Pope 259 tomb of 13, 442 Coria 409
Climate 48–9 Colunga, hotels 563 Cornejo, Pedro Duque 486
Climbing 611 The Comb of the Winds (Chillida) 126 Corpus Christi 42, 102
The Clothed Maja (Goya) 297 Combarro 99 La Orotava 540
Clothes Comendador-Leroux, Pérez, Museo Seville 437
in restaurants 576 Pérez Comendador-Leroux Toledo 391
size chart 607 (Hervás) 408 Corral, Jerónimo del 371
Clothes shops 607 Comillas 114–15 Corral del Carbón (Granada) 17, 492
Barcelona 191–2, 193 Communications 624–5 Corral de Comedias (Almagro) 403
Madrid 322, 323 Communist Party 68, 71, 72 Corralejo 544, 551
Seville 461 Companys, Lluís 177 hotels 575
Cloud and Chair (Tàpies) 164 Complejo Costa Martiánez (Puerto Cortes (parliament) 295
Clubs de la Cruz) 538 Cortés, Hernán 62, 445
Barcelona 198–9 Compostela see Santiago de Corullón 355
Madrid 328–9 Compostela A Coruña (La Coruña) 93
Seville 463 Comunidad de Madrid (Madrid hotels 562
Coach travel 633 province) 270, 331 restaurants 582





636-666_EW_Spain.indd 643 26/09/17 11:04 am

644  GENER AL INDEX


A Coruña province 89 Cueva de Montesinos 401 Descent of the River Sella 45
Cosmocaixa - Museu de la Ciència Cueva de Tito Bustillo 111 Desfiladero de los Beyos 112
(Barcelona) 182 Cueva de Valporquero 356 Desfiladero de Despeñaperros 500
Costa Adeje, restaurants 605 Cueva de los Verdes (Jameos del Desfiladero de la Hermida 114
Costa del Azahar 251 Agua) 554 Desfiladero del Río Cares 112
Costa Blanca 203, 247, 262 Cuevas de Águila 366 Design shops
Costa Brava 13, 203, 211, 221 Cuevas de Altamira 11, 15, 52, 53, Barcelona 192, 193
Costa Cálida 267 116 Madrid 322, 323
Costa Calma 550 Cuevas de Nerja 489 Designer labels, Barcelona 191, 193
Costa Daurada (Costa Dorada) 228 Cuevas de Santimamiñe 123 Deyá see Deià
Costa de la Luz 474 Currency 622–3 Día de la Constitución 47
Costa da Morte 93 Customs information 616 Día de la Cruz (Granada and
Costa del Silencio 538 Cycling 612, 613, 633 Córdoba) 469
Costa del Sol 478–9 in cities 635 Día de la Hispanidad 46, 47
Costa Teguise 553 Día del Pilar (Zaragoza) 46, 243
hotels 575 D Día de Sant Ponç (Barcelona) 161
restaurants 605 Dagli Orti, Gianni, Pier in the Prince’s Día de los Tres Reyes 47
Costa Tropical 489 Garden at Aranjuez Castle 8–9 La Diada (Barcelona) 161
Costa Vasca 11, 14, 123 Daimau, Luis 36 Dialling codes 624
Costa Verde 11, 15, 104, 108–9 Dairy farming 32 Díaz, Daniel Vásquez 468
Costers del Segre wine region Dalí, Salvador 219, 265, 285 Dinosaur footprints 133
206–7 Cadaqués 220 Dios, Juan de 494
El Cotillo, restaurants 604 Casa Museu Salvador Dalí Disabled travellers 617, 619
Counter-Reformation, and literature (Cadaqués) 220 in hotels 561
38 Colossus of Rhodes 37 in restaurants 577
Covadonga 15, 105, 112, 113 Landscape at Cadaqués 302 Discounts
fiestas 114 Rainy Taxi 219 railway 628
Covarrubias 374 Tarot cards 131 students 618–19
restaurants 594 Teatro-Museo Dalí (Figueres) 219 Diving and snorkelling 610–11
Covarrubias, Alonso de 387 La Dama de Elche 52, 53, 265, 300 Domènech i Montaner, Lluís 144
Coves d’Artà 513, 521 Dance 608 Casa de l’Ardiaca (Barcelona) 150
Coves del Drac 521 Barcelona 194–5, 196, 197 Casa Lleó Morera (Barcelona) 164,
Coves d’Hams 521 flamenco 428–9, 608 168
Coves de Sant Josep 252 Madrid 325, 327 Castell dels Tres Dragons
Les Covetes dels Moros 263 Sardana 229 (Barcelona) 159
Craft shops Seville 462–3 Fundacío Tàpies (Barcelona) 164,
Madrid 322, 323 specialist holidays 613 168
Seville 461 Dance of Death (Verges) 225 Hospital de la Santa Creu i de Sant
Cranach, Lucas 299 Danza de los Zancos (Anguiano) Pau (Barcelona) 163, 169
Credit cards 622 136 Palau de la Música Catalana
in hotels 559 Daoíz y Torres, Luis 308 (Barcelona) 156
in restaurants 577 Daroca 231, 242 Universidad Pontificia (Comillas)
in shops 606 restaurants 590 115
Crime 620 David Victorious over Goliath Domènech i Roura, Pere 177
Los Cristianos 538 (Caravaggio) 299 Domingo, Plácido 26
Cro-Magnon people 52, 129 de Kooning, Willem 124 Domínguez, Adolfo 300
Cruz, Penélope 25 Degrain, Antonio Muñoz 256 Dominic, St 132
Cruz de Tejeda, tour of 549 Deià (Deyá) 519 tomb of 380
Cuban War of Independence 69 hotels 574 Don Quixote see Cervantes
Cubero, José 310 Delaunay, Robert 122 Doña i Ocell (Miró) 180
Cudillero 15, 108 Delgado, Alvaro 39 Donamaria, hotels 564
hotels 563 Delta de l’Ebre 34, 229 Doñana National Park 34, 420, 470–
restaurants 583 Deltebre 229 71
Cuenca 341, 382, 388–9 hotels 566 El Doncel, tomb of (Sigüenza) 60,
festivals 44 Dénia 249, 259, 262 386
hotels 570–71 fiestas 43, 259 Donostia see San Sebastiàn
restaurants 596 hotels 567 Dos de Mayo (Madrid) 44, 294
street-by-street map 388–9 The Denuding of Christ (El Greco) 396 Dragon tree 538
Cuenca, Serranía de see Serranía de Department stores 607 Drake, Sir Francis 473
Cuenca Barcelona 191, 193 Drassanes (Barcelona) 161
Cuenca province 383 Madrid 321, 323 Drinks see Food and drink
Cuervo, River 387 Seville 460, 461 Dumas, Alexandre 38
Cueva de Brujas 138 The Descent from the Cross (van der Dunas de Maspalomas 547
Cueva del Buxu 111 Weyden) 299 Duratón, River 369
Cueva de los Letreros 504 Descent of the River Miño 101 Dürer, Albrecht 299





636-666_EW_Spain.indd 644 26/09/17 11:04 am

GENER AL INDEX  645


Durro 215 Epiphany 43, 47 Fashion shops 607
Durruti, Buenaventura 290 Ercina, Lago de la 105, 112 Barcelona 191–2, 193
Erill-la-Vall 215 Madrid 322, 323
E Ermita 31 Seville 461
Easter 42, 47, 294, 372, 437 Ermita de los Reyes (El Hierro) 537 Father Gonzalo de Illescas at Work
Eastern Spain 200–67 Ermita de San Antonio de la Florida (Zurbarán) 411
Aragón 230–45 (Madrid) 307 Faust, Karl 220
Barcelona and the Mediterranean Ermita de San Lorenzo 399 FC Barcelona 180, 181
Coast by Train 11, 16 Ermita de San Marcial 127 Felanitx 521
Catalonia 210–29 Ermita de la Virgen del Prado fiestas 527
flowers of the matorral 208–9 (Talavera de la Reina) 390 Felipe II, King of Spain 74, 502
map 202–3 L’Escala 221 Archivo de Indias (Seville) 445
regional food 204–5 Los Escobazos (Jarandilla de la Vera) Armada 93
Valencia and Murcia 246–67 409 armour 63
wildlife of the matorral 209 El Escorial (Madrid) 63, 270, 334–5 birthplace 370
wines 206–7 Escunhau 214 El Escorial 334–5
Ebro, River 115, 229, 231 restaurants 588 empire 62
Ecce Homo (Juanes) 256 Espartero, General 67, 75 Illescas 390
Echagüe, Antonio Ortiz 127 L’Espluga de Francolí, restaurants Madrid 273
Echalar see Etxalar 589 marriage 62
Écija 10, 13, 17, 481 Esquedas, restaurants 590 Palacio Real (Madrid) 281
Economy 26, 27 Estación de Atocha (Madrid) 301 Felipe III, King of Spain 74, 380
Edificio Metrópolis (Madrid) 288 Estación del Norte (Valencia) 256 expels Moriscos 64
Egas, Enrique de 492 Estadi Olímpic de Montjuïc Iglesia de San Antonio de los
Eiffel, Gustave 101 (Barcelona) 177 Alemanes (Madrid) 308
Eivissa see Ibiza Estadio Bernabéu 310, 325 statue of 277
Eixample (Barcelona) 13, 162–71 L’Estartit 221 Felipe IV, King of Spain 65, 74
area map 163 Estella (Lizarra) 136 Moñasterio de las Descalzas
hotels 565 restaurants 585 Reales (Madrid) 285
nightlife 198, 199 Estepa 481 Parque del Retiro (Madrid) 301
restaurants 587 Estepona 478 statue of 279
Ejea de los Caballeros 234 ETA 27, 71, 72, 73 Felipe V, King of Spain
El Puig, Monasterio de 253 Etiquette 617 abdication 66, 75
Elche see Elx Etxalar (Echalar) 138 becomes king 65
Elciego, hotels 564 Eulalia, St 152 Biblioteca Nacional de España
Electrical adaptors 619 sarcophagus 153 (Madrid) 291
Elizabeth, Empress of Austria 265 Eunate 135 Castell de Montjuïc 177
Elizondo 138 The Euro 623 and Catalan language 216
Eljas 408 European Union 27, 72 Cinco Villas 234
Els Amunts 515 Euskadi see Basque Country La Granja de San Ildefonso 367
Elx (Elche) 265 Euskera language 119, 617 Lleida Cathedral 224
fiestas 42, 45, 259 Exaltación al Río Guadalquivir Palacio Real (Madrid) 280
hotels 567 (Sanlúcar de Barrameda) 469 Parc de la Ciutadella 158
Embalse de El Grado 239 Expo ’92 (Seville) 27, 72–3, 452 Plaza Mayor (Salamanca) 364
Embalse de Puentes Viejas 332 Extremadura 404–17 portraits 66, 74
Embassies 619 climate 48 Real Fábrica de Tapices 310
Emergencies 620–21 fiestas 409 siege of Barcelona 66
Emilian, St 133 food and drink 343 and Xàtiva 258
Los Empelaos (Valverde de la Vera) hotels 571 Felipe VI, King of Spain 27, 45, 73,
409 map 406–7 74, 75
Empordà-Costa Brava wine region restaurants 597 Felipe el Hermoso (the Fair) 492
206–7 Ezcaray, restaurants 585 Felix, St, tomb of 218
Empúries (Ampurias) 55, 220 Feria del Caballo (Jerez de la
La Encamisá (Torrejoncillo) 409 F Frontera) 44
Encants Vell (Barcelona) 190 Fabada 80 Feria Nacional del Queso (Trujillo) 44
Enciso 133 Fairs, annual, Madrid 321 Fernán Gómez, Fernando 300
La Endiablada (Almonacid del The Fall of Granada (Pradilla) 60–61 Fernández, Gregorio 284, 371
Marquesado) 47, 391 Falla, Manuel de, tomb of 473 Fernández de Moratín, Leandro 39
Enlightenment 39, 51, 66 Las Fallas (Valencia) 44, 259, 260– Fernando I of Castilla-León
Enrique IV, King of Castile 60, 398 61 ivory crucifix 300
Enrique, Prince of Asturias 373 Falqués, Pere 164 unites Castile and León 58
Entertainment 608–9 The Family of King Charles IV (Goya) Fernando II of Aragón (the Catholic)
Barcelona 194–9 37 60–61
Madrid 324–9 Family life 24–5 and Almería 505
Seville 462–3 Farming see Agriculture birthplace 234





636-666_EW_Spain.indd 645 26/09/17 11:04 am

646  GENER AL INDEX


Fernando II of Aragón (the Catholic) Finis Gloriae Mundi (Valdés Leal) 437 Food and drink (cont.)
(cont.) Finisterre see Fisterra shops in Seville 461
and Cáceres 412 Fire brigade 621 Southern Spain 422–3
and Columbus 150 Fire Fountain (Klein) 124 specialist holidays 612, 613
Granada 492 Fire hazards 621 Valencia and Murcia 205
Inquisition 278 Fire-walking fiesta (San Pedro what to drink in Spain 580–81
marriage 231, 370 Manrique) 372 wines of Central Spain 344–5
Monasterio de San Juan de los First Republic 66, 68, 75 wines of Eastern Spain 206–7
Reyes (Toledo) 395 Fish and seafood, Northern Spain 80 wines of Northern Spain 82–3
and Orihuela 265 Fishing 611, 613 wines of Southern Spain 424–5
Real Chancillería (Granada) 494 Fishing industry 101 see also Restaurants
Santa Fé 488–9 Fisterra (Finisterre) 93 Football 26, 609
unification of Spain 51, 74 restaurants 582 Barcelona 195
Fernando II of Castile 391 Fitero 134 Barcelona v Real Madrid 181
annexes Navarra 134 Fiveller, Joan 151 Camp Nou (Barcelona) 180
Fernando III of Castile 499 Flame in Space and Naked Woman Madrid 325, 327
Burgos cathedral 376 (Miró) 176 Forcall 250
conquers Baeza 502 Flamenco 428–9, 608 restaurants 591
reunites Castile and León 59 Barcelona 196, 197 Foreign exchange 622
and Trujillo 411 festivals 46 Forestier, Jean 159, 450–51
and Yeste 400 Madrid 325, 327 Forests, Northern Spain 84–5
Fernando VI, King of Spain 75 Seville 13, 22, 462, 463 Forment, Damià 227, 239
Arnedillo 133 Flanagan, Barry 515 Formentera 511, 516
death 67 Flandes, Juan de 372 fiestas 527
Fernando VII, King of Spain 75 Florentino, Nicolás 364 food and drink 517
Colegiata de San Isidro (Madrid) 276 Floridablanca, Count of 66 hotels 574
Ferrer, Pere 151 Flower pavements (Ponteareas) 102 restaurants 602–3
Ferrer, St Vincent 250 Flowers El Formigal 234
Ferreries (Ferrerias) 527 matorral 208–9 Fornells 506–7, 527
restaurants 604 Parque Nacional del Teide 542–3 Fort Bravo Texas Hollywood
Ferries 627 Fluvià, River 217 (Tabernas) 504
Ferrol 92 F.O.G. (Nakaya) 124 Fortuna, hotels 567
Festa Major (Barcelona) 161 Foix, Counts of 216 Foster, Sir Norman 122, 181
Festivals see Fiestas and festivals Folguera, Françesc 222 Fournier, Heraclio 131
Fiestas and festivals 42–7 La Folía (San Vicente de la Barquera) Foz 92
Andalucía 469 114 Fraga, restaurants 590
Aragón 243 Fonseca, Alonso de 372 Francés, Juan 396
Asturias and Cantabria 114 tomb of 365 Francés, Nicolás 358
Balearic Islands 527 Font de Canaletes (Barcelona) 155 Franco, General Francisco 51,
Barcelona 161, 197 Font i Carreras 177 70–71, 75
Basque Country, Navarra and La Font Màgica (Barcelona) 172, 173, 175 Asturian miners’ revolt 69
Rioja 136 Fontíbre 115 birthplace 92
Canary Islands 540 Fontseré, Josep 159 bombing of Gernika-Lumo 14, 122
Castilla y León 372 Food and drink Burgos 374
Castilla-La Mancha 391 Andalucía 422–3 death 27, 71, 72
Catalonia 225 Aragón 204–5 Palacio de El Pardo 336
Extremadura 409 Asturias and Cantabria 80 Santa Cruz del Valle de los Caídos
Galicia 102 Balearic Islands 517 333
Madrid 294 Basque Country, Navarra and La Spanish Civil War 70–71
Seville 437 Rioja 81 François I, King of France 276
Valencia and Murcia 259 Canary Islands 541 Franks 55
see also individual towns and Castilla y León 342–3 Fray Pedro Machado (Zurbarán) 285
festivals by name Castilla-La Mancha 343 Fregenal de la Sierra 417
Figueras (Asturias) 108 Catalonia (Catalunya) 204 Freud, Lucian, Portrait of Baron
Figueres (Figueras) (Catalonia) 219 Central Spain 342–3 Thyssen-Bornemisza 292
hotels 566 Eastern Spain 204–5 Frías 373
restaurants 588 Extremadura 343 Frómista 372–3
Figueroa, Leonardo de 451 Galicia 80 Fruit
Convento de la Merced Calzada Horchata 257 Canary Islands 541
(Seville) 436 Madrid 342 Southern Spain 423
Hospital de los Venerables (Seville) Northern Spain 80–81 Fuencaliente 403
445 Sherry 425 Fuendetodos 242–3
Iglesia de la Magdalena (Seville) 436 shops 607 Fuengirola 479
Films see Cinema shops in Barcelona 190–91, 193 restaurants 600
Fines, driving 631 shops in Madrid 320–21, 323 Fuente Agria 490





636-666_EW_Spain.indd 646 26/09/17 11:04 am

GENER AL INDEX  647


Fuente de Cibeles (Madrid) 290 Garraf, restaurants 588 La Giralda (Seville) 10, 13, 420, 426,
Fuente Dé Gasparini, Matteo 280 438, 439, 440, 442–3
cable car 113 Gasteiz see Vitoria Giralte, Francisco 306
hotels 563 Gata 408 Girona (Gerona) 13, 218–19
Fuente de Neptuno (Madrid) 288, 290 The Gathering at Pombo Café hotels 566
Fuente Obejuna 482 (Solana) 303 map 218
Fuenterabbía see Hondarribia Gaucín 474 restaurants 588–9
Fuentespalda, hotels 567 Gaudí, Antoni 11, 144–5, 168, 176 Girona province 211
Fuerteventura 509, 550–51 El Capricho (Comillas) 115, 145 The Glory of the Spanish Monarchy
hotels 575 Casa Batlló (Barcelona) 13, 144, (Giordano) 335
map 545 145, 168 Godoy, Manuel 66, 285
restaurants 604 Casa de Botines (León) 357 Goicoa, José 126
Fugger brothers 403 Casa Milà (Barcelona) 13, 29, 144, Goldblatt, David 154
Fundació Antoni Tàpies (Barcelona) 162, 165, 166–7, 169 Golden Age 64–5
164, 168 Casa-Museu Gaudí (Barcelona) 182 Golf 612, 613
Fundació Joan Miró (Barcelona) 175, Casa Vicens (Barcelona) 145, 168 Golfines family 412
176 materials 145 El Golfo 553
Funfairs see Amusement parks; Modernisme 144–5 Golondrinas (Barcelona) 161
Theme parks Palacio Episcopal (Astorga) 356 La Gomera 508, 534, 535, 537
Palau Güell (Barcelona) 144–5, 155 hotels 575
G Palma Cathedral 524, 525 restaurants 605
Gainsborough, Thomas 309 Parc de la Ciutadella (Barcelona) whistle language 536
Gáldar 547 159 Góngora, Luis de 38
Galdiano, Lázaro, Museo Lázaro Parc Güell (Barcelona) 145, 182 González, Anibal 450, 451
Galdiano (Madrid) 309 Plaça Reial lampposts (Barcelona) González, Felipe 27, 72, 73
Galerías 155 González, Fernán, tomb of 374
Barcelona 191, 193 Sagrada Família (Barcelona) 13, González, Gutiérrez 499
Seville 460, 461 143, 144, 145, 163, 168, 170–71 González, Julio 256
Galicia 88–103 Santuari de Lluc 519 Good Friday 47, 259, 372
climate 48 Gauguin, Paul, Mata Mua 293 El Gordo 47
fiestas 43, 102 Gazpacho 422 Gormaz 381
food and drink 80 Gehry, Frank 14, 124 Gothic architecture 28, 61
hotels 562 Generalife (Granada) 17, 498 Gothic Quarter (Barcelona) see Barri
map 90–91 Generation of 27 39 Gòtic
restaurants 582–3 Generation of 1898 68 Government, local 625
Wild Spain: Cantabria, Asturias and Gerena, restaurants 600 Goya, Francisco de 36, 243, 256
Galicia 11, 15 La Geria 554 altar painting (Chinchón) 337
Gallego, Fernando 298 restaurants 605 Casa-Museo de Goya
Gallego language 89, 617 Gernika-Lumo (Guernica) 11, 14, (Fuendetodos) 242–3
Galleons 62–3 122–3 The Clothed Maja 297
Galleries see Museums and galleries Gerona see Girona Ermita de San Antonio de la
Galters, Charles 152, 153 Getaria (Guetaria) 14, 123 Florida (Madrid) 307
Ganchegui, Luis Peña 180 hotels 564 The Family of King Charles IV 37
Gandesa 213 Getxo, fiestas 45 Museo Goya (Zaragoza) 241
Gandia 258–9, 262 Giaquinto, Corrado 281 Museo de Navarra (Pamplona)
Gañinas 372 Gibraltar 465, 478 137
Garachico, hotels 575 hotels 573 The Naked Maja 263, 297
Garafia, restaurants 605 restaurants 600 Palacio de Liria (Madrid) 308
Garajonay, Parque Nacional 35, 537 Gift shops Palacio Real (Madrid) 280
García Lorca, Federico 39, 71, 295 Barcelona 192, 193 Prado (Madrid) 298
on bullfighting 40 Madrid 322 The Procession of the Flagellants
García Márquez, Gabriel 39 Seville 461 278
García, Purificación 300 Los Gigantes, restaurants 605 Queen María Luisa 66
Garcilaso de la Vega 488 Gijón 11, 15, 109 Real Accademia de Bellas Artes de
The Garden of Delights (Bosch) 296 hotels 563 San Fernando (Madrid) 285
Gardens see Parks and gardens restaurants 583–4 San Francisco el Grande (Madrid)
Gargallo, Pablo (Pau) 156, 169 Gin, Balearic Islands 517 306
Museuo Pablo Gargallo (Zaragoza) Giordano, Luca 299 Saturn Devouring One of his Sons
241 The Glory of the Spanish Monarchy 298
Garganta de Añisclo 237 335 Self-Portrait 243
Garganta del Chorro 480 Iglesia de San Antonio de los statue of 294
Garganta de los Infiernos 409 Alemanes (Malasaña) frescoes tapestry designs 310, 336
Garganta la Olla 409 308 The Third of May 66–7, 298
Garganta de la Yecla 380 Giovanni de Bologna 277 tomb of 307
Garona, River (Garonne) 214 Gipuzkoa see Guipúzcoa Gràcia (Barcelona), nightlife 199





636-666_EW_Spain.indd 647 26/09/17 11:04 am

648  GENER AL INDEX


Gran Canaria 509, 546–9 Guadalest 263 Hervás 408
hotels 575 Guadalhorce, River 480 Los Hervideros 553
map 544 Guadalquivir, River 434, 482 El Hierro 534, 536–7
restaurants 604–5 Guadalupe 410–11 hotels 575
El Gran Capitán 493 restaurants 597 restaurants 604
Gran Teatre del Liceu (Barcelona) Guadamur 391 volcanoes 555
155, 195 Guadarrama mountains 12 Hinojosa del Duque 482
Gran Vía (Madrid) 12, 268–9, 282–3, Guadiela, River 387 Hio 99
284–5 Guadix 499 La Hiruela 332
Granada 492–8 Guanches 53, 551 Hisham II, Caliph 56
Alhambra 58, 421, 496–7 A Guarda (La Guardia) 53, 100 Hispania 54
fiestas 42, 45, 469 hotels 562 History 51–75
Generalife 498 Guardamar del Segura 262 Hitler, Adolf 70
hotels 573 La Guardia see (A) Guarda HM the King’s International Cup
Madrid and Moorish Spain: Güas, Juan 371, 395 (Palma) 45
Granada, Córdoba and Seville 10, Güell, Count Eusebi 145, 182 Holanda, Cornelis de 102
17 Guernica see Gernika-Lumo Holidays, public 47
map 493 Guernica (Picasso) 12, 70–71, 122, Holm oak 209
Reconquest 60–61 303 The Holy Children with the Shell
restaurants 600 Guetaria see Getaria (Murillo) 37
street-by-street map: Albaicín Guía 547 Holy Grail 238, 255
494–5 Guifré el Pélos (Wilfred the Hairy) Holy Week (Seville) 437
Granada province 465 216, 217 Homo erectus 52
Grandas de Salime 108 Guijuelo, restaurants 594 Hondarribia (Fuenterabbía) 127
La Granja 518 Guipúzcoa (Gipuzkoa) 119 hotels 564
La Granja de San Ildefonso 367 Guitar Festival (Córdoba) 45 Hopper, Edward, Hotel Room 292
Granollers, hotels 566 Guitars 428 Horchata 257
Grape Harvest (Jerez de la Frontera) Guzmán 474 Hórreo 31, 89
46 Guzmán family 475 Horse riding 613
Graus 240 Gypsies 428, 495 Real Escuela Andaluza de Arte
restaurants 590 Ecuestre (Jerez de la Frontera)
Graves, Robert 519 H 472
Grazalema 475 Ha-Leví, Samuel 395 Horta de Sant Joan, restaurants 589
hotels 573 Habsburg dynasty 51, 64, 74 Hospital de la Caridad (Illescas) 390
Grec Arts Festival (Barcelona) 45, 194 Hadrian, Emperor 482 Hospital de la Caridad (Seville) 435,
El Greco 127, 256, 285, 395 Al Hakam II, Caliph 486, 500 437
The Adoration of the Shepherds 296 Hams, Southern Spain 423 Hospital de la Santa Creu i de Sant
The Burial of the Count of Orgaz 36, Hang-gliding 610 Pau (Barcelona) 13, 163, 169
392, 394 Hanging Houses (Cuenca) 382, 389 Hospital de Santiago (Úbeda) 500, 501
The Denuding of Christ 396 Hannibal 54, 253 Hospital de los Venerables (Seville)
Hospital de la Caridad (Illescas) Haría 554 13, 441, 445
390 Harlequin with a Mirror (Picasso) 292 Hostal de los Reyes Católicos
Iglesia de San Miguel (Andújar) Haro 11, 14, 82, 132 (Santiago de Compostela) 94
500 fiestas 136 Hostal de San Marcos (León) 29, 357
Museo Cerralbo (Madrid) 308 hotels 564 Hostels, youth 560, 561
Museo del Greco (Toledo) 395 restaurants 585 Hotel Ritz by Belmond (Madrid) 289,
The Nobleman with his Hand on his Hat shops, Barcelona 192, 193 290
Chest 298 Las Hayas, restaurants 605 Hotel Room (Hopper) 292
The Virgin of the Immaculate Hayedo de Montejo de la Sierra Hotels 558–75
Conception 394 332 Andalucía 572–4
Gredos, Sierra de see Sierra de Gredos Hayedo de Tejera Negra 386 Aragón 567
Greek colonizers 51, 52, 53 Health 620–21 Asturias and Cantabria 562–3
Green travel 626 Hecho 234 Balearic Islands 574–5
Gregorian plainchant 333, 380, 609 restaurants 590 Barcelona 564–5
Gregory I, Pope 380 Hemingway, Ernest 38, 136 Basque Country, Navarra and La
Grimau, Julían 276 Hercules 473 Rioja 563–4
Gris, Juan, Jug and Glass 37 Hermosilla, José 290 booking and check-in 559
O Grove (El Grove) 98 Hernández, Rafael Rodríguez 450 Canary Islands 575
restaurants 582 Hernani 127 casas rurales 559
Gruta de las Maravillas 468 Herrera, Juan de 277 Castilla y León 569–70
Gruta de San José see Coves de Sant Archivo de Indias (Seville) 445 Castilla-La Mancha 570–71
Josep El Escorial 335 Catalonia 565–7
Guadalajara 387 Oropesa Castle 391 disabled travellers 561
restaurants 596 Valladolid Cathedral 371 Extremadura 571
Guadalajara province 383 Herrería de Compludo 354 Galicia 562





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