(DK Eyewitness) Travel Guide - Spain

SP AIN THROUGH THE Y EAR  49


BASQUE COUNTRY, ARAGÓN CATALONIA
NAVARRA & RIOJA
36 37 38
°C 26 °C °C
25 26 27 28 28
18 18
15 10 13
10 5
1 2 4 3 3
0 0 0
–7 –4 –5
6 9.5 5 2.5 8 11.5 6.5 5 8.5 11.5 6.5 4
hrs hrs hrs hrs hrs hrs hrs hrs hrs hrs hrs hrs
83 46 107 130 34 15 34 17 46 24 30 22
mm mm mm mm mm mm mm mm mm mm mm mm
month Apr Jul Oct Jan month Apr Jul Oct Jan month Apr Jul Oct Jan

Oviedo Santander San Sebastián
Santiago de (Donostia) THE BALEARIC
Compostela Bilbo ISLANDS
(Bilbao)
Vigo León Burgos (Pamplona) °C 24 33 27
Iruña
17 18
9
Valladolid 6 2
Lleida 0
Zaragoza
Salamanca Barcelona 7.5 11.5 6 5
hrs hrs hrs hrs
32 3 77 39
MADRID mm mm mm mm
month Apr Jul Oct Jan
Cuenca
Cáceres Toledo
Palma
Valencia
Badajoz
Ciudad Albacete
Real
de Tenerife
Córdoba Murcia Alacant Santa Cruz
(Alicante)
Las Palmas
Sevilla de Gran Canaria
Granada
Málaga Almería
Cádiz


CASTILLA-LA VALENCIA AND THE CANARY
MANCHA MURCIA ISLANDS
36
36 32
°C °C 30 °C 30
24 26 27 26 25
23
16 17 12 17 16
8 7 9 11
1
0 0 0
–2 –1 –10
7.5 12 6 4.5 8.5 11.5 7 6 7.5 9.5 7 6.5
hrs hrs hrs hrs hrs hrs hrs hrs hrs hrs hrs hrs
48 19 52 43 40 4 52 30 13 0 28 36
mm mm mm mm mm mm mm mm mm mm mm mm
month Apr Jul Oct Jan month Apr Jul Oct Jan month Apr Jul Oct Jan



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INTRODUCING SP AIN  51

THE HISTORY

OF SPAIN



The Iberian Peninsula, first inhabited around 800,000 BC, has long been subject to
foreign influences – from the Phoenicians to the Romans, the Moors to the Christians.
Spain itself has a colourful, dramatic history, from the Discovery of the Americas in
the 15th century to the Spanish Civil War in the 20th century. Today, tourism is a key
industry and the country is the third most visited in the world.

From the 11th century BC, Iberia was From the 11th century, northern Christian
colonized by eastern Mediterranean civil i­ kingdoms initiated a military reconquest of Al
zations, starting with the Phoenicians, then Andalus. The marriage, in 1469, of Fernando
the Greeks and Carthaginians. The Romans of Aragón and Isabel of Castile led to unity.
arrived in 218 BC to fight the Carthaginians, They took Granada, the last Moorish king­
thus sparking off the Second Punic War. dom in 1492, and Columbus discovered the
They harvested the peninsula’s agricultural Americas in the same year, opening the way
and mineral wealth and established cities for the Spanish conquistadors. The succ­
with aque ducts, temples and theatres. eeding Habsburg dynasty spent the riches
With the fall of the Roman Empire in the from the New World on endless foreign wars
early 5th century AD, Visigothic invaders and Spain’s misfortunes cont inued into the
from the north took power but their poor next century with Napoleon’s invasion and
political organization made them easy prey the loss of American colo nies. Later, the pol i­
to the Moors from North Africa. In the tical instability of the 19th and early 20th
8th century, the pen in sula came almost centuries led to dictator ship in the 1920s and
entirely under Moorish rule. Europe’s only a republic in the 1930s, which was destroyed
major Muslim territory, the civilization of by the Civil War. General Franco ruled by
Al Andalus excelled in mathematics, repression until his death in 1975, and Spain
geography, astronomy and poetry. has been a constitutional monarchy since.

























Bullfighting in Madrid’s Plaza Mayor in the 17th century
The Virgin of the Catholic Monarchs, a 15th-century painting kept in Madrid’s Museo del Prado



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Prehistoric Spain

The Iberian Peninsula was first inhabited by hunter-
gatherers around 800,000 BC. They were eclipsed by
a Neolithic farming population from 5000 BC. First
in a wave of settlers from over the Mediterranean,
the Phoenicians landed in 1100 BC, to be followed
by the Greeks and Carthaginians. Invading Celts
mixed with native Iberian tribes (forming the Spain in 5000 BC
Celtiberians). They proved a formidable force Neolithic farming
settlements
against the Romans, the next conquerors of Spain.


Small silver
The 28 bracelets bottle
have perforations
and moulded
Iron Dagger (6th century BC) decorations.
Weapons, like this Celtic dagger, represent the
later Iron Age, in contrast to earlier metal objects
which were for domestic use.




Stone Age Man
This skull belongs to
a Palaeolithic man,
who hunted deer
and bison with
tools made of
wood and stone.

Incised
geometric
pattern

La Dama de Elche
Dating from the 4th
century BC, this
stone statue is a The Villena Treasure
fine example of Discovered in 1963 during works in Villena,
Iberian art. Her near Alicante, this Bronze Age find consists of
austere beauty 66 dazzling objects mostly of gold, includ ing
reveals traces of bowls, bottles and jewellery (see p264). The
Greek influence.
treasure dates from around 1000 BC.

800,000 BC Homo erectus 2500 BC Los Millares (p505)
arrives in Iberian Peninsula 35,000 BC is inhabited by early metal- 1800–1100 BC
Cro-Magnon man workers with belief in Civilization of El Argar,
300,000 BC Tribes of Homo evolves in Spain an advanced agrarian
erectus live in hunting camps the afterlife society, flourishes in
in Soria and Madrid southeast Spain
800,000 BC 2500 2000
100,000–40,000 BC 5000 BC Farming begins
500,000 BC Stones used Neanderthal man in Gibraltar
as tools by hominids in Iberian Peninsula
(probably Homo erectus)
18,000–14,000 BC Drawings by cave dwellers at
Altamira (Cantabria), near Ribadesella (Asturias)
Bison cave drawing, Altamira and at Nerja (Andalucía)



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THE HIST OR Y OF SP AIN  53


Greek Ceramic Vase
The Greek colonizers brought Where to See
new technology, including Prehistoric Spain
the potter’s wheel, as well as The most famous cave paintings in
refined artistic ideals. Their Spain are at Altamira (see p116). There
ceramics, such as this two- are dolmens in many parts of the
handled wine vessel, or country; among the largest are those
amphora, provided at Antequera (see p481). The Guanches
sophisticated models. – the indigenous inhabitants of the
Canary Islands – left behind more
recent remains (see p551).



The largest of the
treasure’s five bottles,
made of silver, stands
22.5 cm (9 in) high. Bowls of beaten
gold may have
originated in
southwest Spain.
La Naveta d’es Tudons is one
of the many prehistoric stone
monuments scattered across
the island of Menorca (see p531).










An excavated Celtic village, with
its round huts, can be seen near
A Guarda in Pontevedra (see p100).





Brooches with Astarte (8th century BC)
separate clasps Worship of Phoenician deities was
incorporated into local religions.
The smaller One of the most popular was the
pieces are of fertility goddess Astarte, shown on this
unknown use. bronze from the kingdom of Tartessus.

1100 BC 600 BC Greek 228 BC Carthaginians
Phoenicians colonists settle occupy south east Spain
believed to have on northeast
founded modern- coast of Spain 300 BC La Dama de
Phoenician sarcophagus day Cádiz Elche is carved (p300)
1500 1000 500
1200 BC The “talaiotic” people 775 BC
of Menorca erect three unique Phoenicians
types of stone building: establish colonies 700 BC Semi-mythical
taulas, talaiots and navetas along the coast kingdom of Tartessus Carthaginian
near Málaga thought to be at its height sculpture
Taula in Menorca




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54  INTRODUCING SP AIN

Romans and Visigoths

The Romans came to Spain to fight the Cartha ginians and
take possession of the region’s huge mineral wealth. Later,
Hispania’s wheat and olive oil became mainstays of the
empire. It took 200 years to subdue the penin sula, which
was divided in three provinces: Tarraconensis, Lusitania and
Baetica. In time, cities with Roman infrastructure developed.
The fall of the empire in the 5th century left Spain in the Spain (Hispania) in 5 BC
hands of the Visigoths, invaders from the north. Politically Tarraconensis
disorganized, they fell victim to the Moors in 711. Lusitania
Baetica
Trajan (AD 53–117)
Trajan was the first Hispanic
Roman emperor (AD 98–117). Portico
He improved public over looking
administration and the gardens
expanded the empire.





Good acoustics
at every level

A Classical
façade served
as a back-drop
for tragedies.
Additional
scenery
was used
Seneca (4 BC–AD 65) for comedies.
Born in Córdoba, the Stoic
philosopher Seneca lived in The orchestra,
Rome as Nero’s adviser.
a semicircular open
space for the choir

Visigothic Relief
This Visigothic stone
carving depicting the The auditorium
sacrifice of Isaac is in the seated over 5,000.
7th-century church of The audience was
San Pedro de la Nave, placed according
near Zamora (pp360–61). to social status.

218 BC Scipio the Elder c.200 BC Romans reach Gadir 26 BC Emerita Augusta (Mérida) is founded
lands with a Roman (modern Cádiz) after driving and soon becomes capital of Lusitania
army at Emporion Carthaginians out of Hispania
(p220). The Second 155 BC Lusitanian Wars begin. 19 BC Augustus takes Cantabria and
Punic War begins
Romans invade Portugal Asturias, ending 200 years of war
200 BC 100 AD 1 AD 100
219 BC Hannibal 133 BC Celt- 61 BC Julius Caesar, governor of Hispania AD 74 Emperor
takes Saguntum Iberian Wars Ulterior, begins final conquest of northern Vespasian grants
(p253) for culminate in Portugal and Galicia Latin status to all
Carthaginians destruction towns in Hispania,
of Numantia, 82–72 BC Roman Civil War. Pompey completing process
Hannibal Soria (p381) founds Pompaelo (Pamplona) in 75 BC of Romanization




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THE HIST OR Y OF SP AIN  55


Gladiator Mosaic Where to See
Mosaics were used
as decoration both Roman Spain
indoors and out. Like Mérida, Tarragona (see
Themes range from pp228–9) has extensive Roman
mythical episodes ruins, and Itálica (see p482) is an
to portrayals of daily excavated town. A magnifi cent
life. This 4th-century Roman wall rings Lugo in Galicia
AD mosaic shows (see p103). Built in Trajan’s rule, the
gladiators in action bridge over the Tagus at Alcántara
and has helpful (see p414) has a temple on it.
labels to name the
fighters and show
who is dead or alive.



The gardens were used as a
foyer during intervals by the
Hispanic nobility, dressed in
elegant togas.
Emporion, a Roman town, was
built next to a former Greek
Stage building in colony in the 3rd century BC.
granite and marble The ruins include grand villas
and a forum (see p220).
Scaena,
the platform
on which
the actors
performed




Segovia’s Roman aqueduct
(see pp368–9), a huge monument
with 163 arches, dates from the
end of the 1st century AD.



Visigothic Cross
Although Visigothic kings seldom
Roman Theatre, Mérida ruled long enough to make
an impact on society, the
Theatre was an extremely popular form early Christian Church grew
of entertainment in Hispania. This powerful. Fortunes were spent
reconstruction shows the theatre at on churches and religious art.
Mérida (see p414), built in 16–15 BC.

415 Visigoths establish 446 Romans attempt to win
their court at Barcelona back rest of Hispania
409 Vandals and their 476 Overthrow of the last
Mosaic from Mérida allies cross Pyrenees Roman emperor leads to end
into Tarraconensis of Western Roman Empire
200 300 400 500
AD 74 Emperor 312 Christianity officially
Vespasian grants recognized as religion under 589 Visigothic King
Latin status to all 258 Franks cross rule of Constantine, the first Reccared converts
towns in Hispania, Pyrenees into Christian emperor from Arianism to
completing process Tarraconensis and The Codex Vigilianus, Catholicism at Third
of Romanization sack Tarragona
a Christian manuscript Council of Toledo



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Al Andalus: Muslim Spain

The arrival of Arab and Berber invaders from North Africa,
and their defeat of the Visigoths, gave rise to the most
brilliant civilization of early medieval Europe. These Muslim
settlers, often known as the Moors, called Spain “Al Andalus”.
A rich and powerful caliphate was established in Córdoba
and mathematics, science, archi tecture and the decorative
arts flourished. The caliphate eventually broke up into small Spain in AD 750
kingdoms or taifas. Meanwhile small Christian enclaves Extent of Moorish
domination
expanded in the north.

Water Wheel
Moorish irrigation tech- The palace, dating from
niques, such as the water the 11th century, was
wheel, revolutionized surrounded by patios,
agriculture. New crops, pools and gardens.
including oranges and
rice, were introduced.


Astrolabe
Perfected by the
Moors around AD 800,
the astrolabe was
used by navigators
and astronomers.


Remains of
a Roman
amphitheatre










Silver Casket of Hisham II
In the Caliphate of Córdoba,
luxury objects of brilliant Curtain walls with
craftsmanship were worked in Fortified watch towers
ivory, silver and bronze. entrance gate

711 Moors, led 778 Charlemagne’s rearguard defeated
by Tariq, invade 732 Moors’ advance into by Basques at Roncesvalles (p138)
Spain and defeat France is halted by
Visigoths at Charles Martel at Poitiers 785 Building of
battle of great mosque at Charlemagne
Guadalete Córdoba begins (742–814)
750 800 850
722 Led by 756 Abd al Rahman I proclaims 822 Abd al Rahman II begins
Pelayo, independent emirate in Córdoba 30-year rule marked by patron age
Christians 744 Christians under Alfonso I of the arts and culture
defeat Moors of Asturias take León c.800 Tomb of St James (Santiago)
at Covadonga is supposedly discovered at Santiago
(p113) Pelayo (718–37) de Compostela




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THE HIST OR Y OF SP AIN  57


Where to See Moorish Spain
The finest Moorish buildings are in
Andalucía, mainly in the cities of Cór doba
(see pp484–5) and Granada (see pp492–8).
Almería (see p505) has a large, ruined
alcazaba (castle). In Jaén (see p499) there
are Moorish baths. Further north, in
Zaragoza, is the castle-palace of La
Aljafería (see p241).

The East Wall of Córdoba’s Mezquita
Wealth and artistic brilliance were lavished on
mosques, especially in Córdoba (see pp486–7).
Moorish arches were a major design element.

Torre del Homenaje, the
keep, was built by Abd al
Rahman I (756–88).
Baths
Medina Azahara (see p483), sacked in the
11th century but partly restored, was the
final residence of Córdoba’s caliphs.

Moorish Flask
A fine example of Moorish
craftsman ship, this Umayyad
dynasty flask dates from
the 10th century.
Patio with
Moorish
decoration




Alcazaba at Málaga
An alcazaba was a castle built into the Tariq ibn Ziyad
ramparts of a Moorish city, often protected This Berber general,
by massive concentric walls. In Málaga a member of the
(see p480) – the principal port of the Moorish Umayyad Caliphate,
kingdom of Granada – the vast Alcazaba was the leader of the
was built in the 8–11th centuries on the site Moorish forces that
of a Roman fortress, and incorpor ated conquered Southern
massive curtain walls and fortified gates. Spain in 711.

976 Al Mansur, military
905 Emergent dictator, usurps caliphal 1010 Medina Azahara
Navarra becomes powers and sacks sacked by Berbers
Christian kingdom Barcelona. Córdoba
under Sancho I Mezquita finished
850 900 950 1000
936 Building of Medina 1013 Caliphate of
Azahara palace starts Córdoba breaks up.
913 Christian near Córdoba Emergence of taifas:
capital is small, independent
established Bronze deer from Moorish kingdoms
at León Medina Azahara




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The Reconquest

The infant Christian kingdoms in the north – León, Castile,
Navarra, Aragón and Catalonia – advanced south gradually
in the 11th century, fighting in the name of Christianity to
regain land from the Moors. After the fall of Toledo in 1085,
the struggle became increasingly a holy war. Militant North
African Muslims – Almoravids and Almohads – rallied to the
Moorish cause and ultimately took over Al Andalus in the Spain in 1173
12th century. As the Christians pushed further south, soon Christian kingdoms
only Granada remained under Moorish control. Al Andalus


Armies of Castile,
Golden Goblet Aragón and Navarra
The exquisite gob let
(1063) of Doña Urraca,
daughter of Alfonso VI,
shows the quality of
medieval Christian
craftsmanship.
Fernando I
Fernando formed the
first Christian power
bloc in 1037 by
uniting Léon with
Castile, which was
emerging as a major The Almohads fight
military force. until the bitter end,
although many
comrades lay slain.



Las Navas de Tolosa
The Christian victory over the
Almohads in the Battle of Las
Navas de Tolosa (1212) led to
Moorish Spain’s decline. The
army of Muhammad II al Nasir
was no match for the forces of
Alhambra, Palace of the Nasrids Sancho VII of Navarra, Pedro II
Moorish art and architecture of singular of Aragón and Alfonso VIII
beauty continued to be produced in the of Castile. A stained-glass
Nasrid kingdom of Granada. Its apogee is win dow in Roncesvalles
the exquisite Alhambra (see pp496–7). (see p138) depicts the battle.


1037 León 1065 Death of 1086 Almoravids 1158 Establishment of 1215 Foundation of
and Castile Fernando I respond to pleas for the Order of Calatrava, Salamanca University
united for first precipitates help from Moorish the first military order
time under fratricidal civil emirs by taking over of knights in Spain
Fernando I war between taifas (splinter states)
his sons Fighting for the Reconquest
1050 1100 1150 1200
1085 Toledo falls to 1137 Ramón Berenguer IV 1147 Almohads 1212 Combined
Christians under of Catalonia marries arrive in Al Andalus Christian forces
Alfonso VI of Castile Petronila of Aragón, uniting and make Seville defeat Almohads
1094 The legendary the two kingdoms under their capital at battle of Las
El Cid (see p374) their son, Alfonso II 1143 Portugal becomes Navas de Tolosa
Alfonso VI captures Valencia separate kingdom




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THE HIST OR Y OF SP AIN  59


Where to See
Mudéjar Spain
The Mudéjares – Muslims who
remained in territories under
Christian occupation – created
a distinctive architectural style
distinguished by its ornamen tal
work in brick, plaster and
ceramics. Aragón, particularly
Cantigas of Alfonso X (1252–84) Zaragoza (see pp240–41) and
This detail of a manuscript by Alfonso X portrays the Moorish Teruel (see pp244–5), boasts some
King of Granada preparing to invade Chincoya Castle. of the finest Mudéjar buildings.
Alfonso the Learned encouraged his scholars to Seville’s Reales Alcázares is an
master Arab culture and translate ancient exquisitely harmonious collection
Greek manuscripts brought by the Moors. of patios and halls built under
Pedro I (see pp446–7).
Sancho VII of
Navarra leads the
Christian forces.







The Tower of San Martín, in
Teruel, combines both brick
and colourful ceramics to
highly decorative effect.











St James (Santiago)
Known as the Moor­
slayer, St James is said
to have miraculously Santa María la Blanca (see
intervened at the Battle p395), a former synagogue and
of Clavijo in 844. This church, shows the fusion of
powerful figurehead is cultures in medieval Toledo.
the patron saint of Spain.


1388–9
1215 Foundation of
Salamanca University 1385 Portuguese defeat Castilians at Treaties end
Aljubarrota, crushing King Juan’s Spanish
1230 Fernando III aspirations to throne of Portugal phase of
reunites Castile Coat of arms in Hundred
and León Toledo’s cathedral Years’ War
1200 1250 1300 1350 1400
1250 Toledo at its height as a centre 1386 Invasion of Galicia
of translation and learning, influenced by the English, ended
by Alfonso X the Learned by Bayonne Treaty
1232 Granada becomes capital of 1401 Work starts in Seville on
future Nasrid kingdom. Building what was then the world’s
of the Alhambra begins Alfonso X largest Gothic cathedral



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The Catholic Monarchs

The foundation of the Spanish nation-state was laid by Isabel I
of Castile and Fernando II of Aragón (see p74). Uniting their
lands in military, diplomatic and religious matters, the
“Catholic Monarchs”, as they are known, won back Granada,
the last Moorish kingdom, from Boabdil. The Inquisition
gave Spain a reputation for intolerance, yet in art and
architecture brilliant progress was made and the voyages Spain’s Exploration of
the New World
of Columbus opened up the New World.
Route of Columbus’s
first voyage
Tomb of El Doncel (15th century)
This effigy of a page who died in the fight
for Granada combines ideals of military
glory and learning (see p386).


Alhambra
Boabdil, the grief-
stricken king, moves
forward to hand over
the keys to Granada.


The Inquisition
Active from 1478, the Inquisition
(see p278) persecuted those
suspected of heresy with
increasing vigour. This member
of the Brotherhood of Death
took victims to the stake.




Baptizing Jews
After the Christian
reconquest of The Fall of Granada (1492)
Granada, Jews
were forced to This romantic interpretation by Francisco
convert or leave Pradilla (1846 –1921) reflects the chivalry of
Spain. The con­ Boabdil, ruler of Granada, as he surrenders
versos (converted the keys of the last Moorish kingdom to the
Jews) were often Catholic Monarchs, Fernando and Isabel,
treated badly. following ten long years of war.

1454 Enrique IV, Isabel’s 1478 Papal bull authorizes
half-brother, accedes to Castilian Inquisition with
throne of Castile 1465 Civil Tomás de Torquemada
war erupts as Inquisitor General
in Castile
Torquemada
1450 1460 1470 1480
1451 Birth 1469 Marriage of Fernando 1479 Fernando
of Isabel and Isabel in Valladolid unites becomes
of Castile Castile and Aragón Fernando II
1474 Death of Enrique IV leads to civil war; Isabel of Aragón
Statue of Isabel in a park
near the Royal Palace triumphs over Juana la Beltraneja, Enrique’s
supposed daughter, to become queen



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THE HIST OR Y OF SP AIN  61














Columbus Arriving in the Americas
The Catholic Monarchs financed Columbus’s daring first voyage
partly because they hoped for riches in return, but also because
they expected him to convert infidels.
Boabdil
As the forlorn
Fernando of Isabel, queen of Castile, king left Granada, his mother
Aragón witnesses the surrender reputedly said, “Don’t cry as
of Granada, surrounded a child over what you could
by a glittering entourage. not defend as a man”.

Where to See Gothic
Architecture in Spain
Spain has many great Gothic cathedrals,
especially in Seville (pp442–3), Burgos
(pp376–7), Barcelona (pp152–3), Toledo
(pp396–7) and Palma de Mallorca (pp524–5).
Secular buildings from this era include
commodity exchanges like La Lonja in
Valencia (p255) and castles (pp348–9).










Crown of Isabel
Worn at the surrender, León cathedral (pp358–9) has a west front
Isabel’s crown is now in covered in statuary. Here Christ is seen
her final resting place, presiding over the Last Judgment.
the Capilla Real in
Granada (see p492).

1494 Treaty of 1509 Cardinal Cardinal
Tordesillas divides Cisneros’ troops Cisneros
the New World 1496 Foundation of Santo attack Oran in Algeria
territories between Domingo, on Hispaniola, and temporarily
Portugal and Spain first Spanish city in occupy it
the Americas
1480 1490 1500 1510
1492 Fall of 1502 Uncon­ 1516 Death
Granada after ten­ verted Moors 1504 Following death of Fernando
year war. Columbus expelled of Isabel, her daughter 1512 Annexation
reaches America. from Spain Juana la Loca becomes of Navarra, leading
Expulsion of Jews Columbus’s ship, queen of Castile with to full unification
from Spain the Santa María Fernando as regent of Spain




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The Age of Discovery

Following Columbus’s arrival in the Bahamas in 1492,
the conquistadors went into Central and South America,
con quering Mexico (1519), Peru (1532) and Chile (1541).
In doing so, they destroyed Indian civilizations. In the 16th
century, vast quantities of gold and silver flowed across
the Atlantic to Spain. Carlos I and his son Felipe II spent
some of it on battles to halt the spread of Protestantism Spanish Empire in 1580
in Europe, and in the Holy War against the Turks. Dominions of Felipe II

Mapping the World
This 16th-century
German map reflects Galleons were
a new world, largely armed with cannons
unknown to Europe as a defence against
before the era of pirates and rival
conquistadors. conquerors.



The lookout
was essential for
spotting enemies
and making landfall.
Aztec Mask
In their great greed and
ignorance, the Spanish
destroyed the empires Forecastle
and civilizations of the
Aztecs in Mexico and the
Incas in Peru.






Seville
Granted the
trading monopoly
with the Americas,
Seville, on the banks of
the Guadalquivir, was
Europe’s richest port in
the early 16th century.


1519 Magellan, 1532 Pizarro 1554 International Catholic
Portuguese explorer, takes Peru alliance created by marriage
leaves Seville under 1520–21 Revolt by Castilian towns with 180 men of future king Felipe II with
Spanish patronage when Carlos I appoints foreigner, and destroys Mary Tudor of England
to circumnavigate Adrian of Utrecht, as regent Inca Empire
the globe Pizarro
1520 1530 1540 1550
1519 Conquest of Mexico by 1540 Father Bartolomé
Cortés. Carlos I crowned Holy de las Casas writes book
Roman Emperor Charles V denouncing the
oppression of Indians
Ferdinand Magellan Bartolomé de las Casas





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THE HIST OR Y OF SP AIN  63


New World Crops
Not only did Spain profit
from the gold and silver
brought across the ocean
from the Americas, but
also from an amazing
range of new crops. Some,
including potatoes and
Cacao maize, were introduced for
Defeat of the Spanish Armada plant cultivation in Spain, while
Spain’s self-esteem suffered a hard blow when its others, such as tobacco and
“invincible” 133-ship fleet was destroyed in an cacao, were mainly grown in native
attempt to invade Protestant England in 1588. soil. Cocoa, from cacao beans, gained
favour as a drink.

Armour of Felipe II
Felipe II (1556–98) was a
cunning administrator, who
claimed to rule the world
with paper rather than
military might.


Flag of Spain Peruvian with exotic New World fruit
(until 1785)



Storage space
for New World
treasures







Spanish Galleon
Although sturdily built to
carry New World treasure
back to Spain, these ships were Carlos I (1516–56) During
hard to manoeuvre except with his tumultuous 40-year reign,
the wind behind. They were Carlos I (Holy Roman Emperor
often no match for smaller, Charles V) often led his troops
swifter pirate vessels. on the battlefield.


1557 First of a series of partial
bankruptcies of Spain 1588 Spanish
Armada fails in
1561 Building of attack on England
El Escorial, near El Escorial
Madrid, begins (see pp334–5)
1550 1560 1570 1580 1590
1561 Madrid 1571 Spanish victory
becomes capital over Turks in naval battle 1580 Portugal unites
of Spain of Lepanto with Spain for the next
1568 Moriscos (converted Moors) in 60 years
the Alpujarras (Granada) rebel against 1569 Bible published for
high taxes and persecution first time in Castilian




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64  INTRODUCING SP AIN

The Golden Age

Spain’s Golden Age was a time of great artistic and literary
achievement led by the painters – El Greco and Velázquez
(see pp36–7) – and writers (see pp38–9), especially Cervantes and
the prolific dramatists Lope de Vega and Calderón de la Barca. This
brilliance occurred, however, against a background of economic
deterioration and ruinous wars with the Low Countries and
France. Spain was gradually losing its influence in Europe and the The Spanish Empire in
Europe in 1647
reigning house of Habsburg entered irreversible decline.
Spanish territories
A clock is a reminder of the
inevitable passage of time.









Don Quixote and Sancho Panza
Cervantes’ satire on chivalrous romance, Don
Quixote, contrasts the fantasy of the main
character with his servant’s realism.
The knight is
dressed in mid-
17th-century
fashion.




Money
represents
worldly
wealth.
The Knight’s Dream (1650)
This painting, attributed to Antonio de Pereda, is on a
familiar Golden Age theme: human vanity. A young
Duke of Lerma gentleman sits asleep beside a table piled with objects
This painting portrays the symbolizing power, wealth and mortality. The pleasures
Duke of Lerma (c.1550–1625), of life, we are told, are no more real than a dream.
a favourite of King Felipe III.

Felipe III 1609 Felipe III 1621 Low Countries war 1643 Fall of
orders the expulsion resumes after 12-year truce Count-Duke
1600 Capital of the Moriscos Olivares. Spain
temporarily 1625 Capture of heavily defeated
moves to 1619 Construction of Breda, Netherlands, by France at
Valladolid Plaza Mayor, Madrid after one-year siege Battle of Rocroi
1600 1610 1620 1630 1640
1605 1609 Lope 1622 Velázquez moves 1640
Publication of de Vega from Seville to Madrid to Secession of
first of two publishes become court painter the Portugal,
parts of poem on the following year amalgamated
Cervantes’ art of comic Lope de Vega with Spain
Don Quixote drama since 1580
(1562–1635)



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THE HIST OR Y OF SP AIN  65


Seville School of Art
Seville’s wealth, together with the
patronage of the Church, made it a
centre of the arts, second only to the
royal court. Velázquez, who was born
in Seville, trained under the painter
Pacheco. Sculptor Juan Martínez
Montañés and painters Zurbarán and
Murillo created great works which are
displayed in the Museo de Bellas
Artes (see p436).
Fiesta in the Plaza Mayor in Madrid
This famous square (see p277) became the scene for
pageants, royal celebrations, bullfights and executions,
all overlooked from the balconies.
An angel warns that The banner says, “It
death is near. [death] pierces
perpetually, flies
quickly and kills”.
A mask
symbolizes
the Arts. San Diego de Alcalá Giving Food to the Poor
(c.1646) by Murillo
Expulsion of
the Moriscos
Although they
had converted to
Christianity, the
last Moors were
still ex pelled
in 1609.








Weapons
represent power. Surrender of Breda
Spain took the Dutch city
of Breda on 5 June 1625
The skull on the book after a year-long siege.
shows Death triumphant The event was later
over Learning.
painted by Velázquez.
1652 Spanish Calderón de 1683–4 Louis XIV attacks
troops regain la Barca Catalonia and Spanish
Catalonia, Netherlands
following 1669 Calderón de la Barca’s last
12-year war work, La Estátua de Prometeo,
with France is published
1640 1650 1660 1670 1680 1690 1700
1648 Holland achieves 1700 Death of Carlos
independence from 1659 Peace of the Pyrenees II brings Habsburg line
Spain by Treaty of signed with France. Louis XIV to an end. Felipe V, the
Westphalia, ending marries Felipe IV’s daughter first Bourbon king,
the Thirty Years’ War María Teresa, leading to Bourbon María Teresa, wife ascends the throne
succession in Spain of France’s Louis XIV




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66  INTRODUCING SP AIN

Bourbons to First Republic

The War of the Spanish Succession ended in triumph for
the Bourbons, who made Spain a centralized nation. Their
power was at its height during the reign of the enlightened
despot Carlos III. But the 19th century was a troubled time.
An invasion by revolutionary France led to the War of
Independence (Peninsular War). Later came the Carlist
Wars – caused by another dispute over the succession – Spain in 1714
liberal revolts and the short-lived First Republic. Domain after Treaty
of Utrecht
The Enlightenment Spanish rebel faces
The Enlightenment death in a gesture
brought new learning of crucifixion.
and novel projects.
On 5 July 1784 this
Montgolfier balloon rose
above Madrid.





A Franciscan friar
is among the
innocent victims.

Queen María Luisa
The dominating María Luisa
of Parma, por trayed by
Goya, forced her husband
Carlos IV to appoint her
lover, Manuel Godoy,
prime minister in 1792.







Hundreds of lives
Battle of Trafalgar were taken in the
The defeat of the Franco- executions, which
Spanish fleet by the British lasted several days.
admiral, Lord Nelson, off
Cape Trafalgar in 1805 was
the end of Spanish sea power.

1724 Luis I (son of Felipe V) 1767 Carlos III
1702–14 War of the Spanish gains throne when his father expels Jesuits
Succession. Spain loses abdicates, but dies within from Spain and
Netherlands and Gibraltar a year; Felipe V reinstated Spanish colonies
by Treaty of Utrecht
1700 1720 1740 1760 1780
1714 Siege and reduction 1762–3 British
of Barcelona by Felipe V government declares
war on Spanish over
Count of colonies in America
Felipe V, the first Bourbon Floridablanca 1782 Count of Floridablanca helps
king (1700–24) (1728–1808) to recover Menorca from Britain




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THE HIST OR Y OF SP AIN  67


Carlos III Leaving Naples
When Fernando VI died without an
heir in 1759, his half-brother Carlos
VII of Naples was put on the Spanish
throne as Carlos III. His enlightened
reign saw the founda tion of
academies of science and art
and the beginning of free trade.





French soldiers, operating on General Prim (1814–70)
orders from Marshal Murat, General Prim was one of
execute Spanish patriots. 19th-century Spain’s most
influential figures. He forced
the abdication of Isabel II, and
pursued liberal poli cies until
assassinated in Madrid.



French infantry
helmet
















The 3rd of May in Madrid by Goya (1814)
On 2 May 1808, in reaction to Napoleon’s occupation
of Spain, the people of Madrid rose in vain against the Baroque Magnificence
occupying French forces. The next day the French The sacristy of the Monasterio de la
army took its revenge by executing hundreds of Cartuja in Granada is typical of Spanish
people, both rebels and bystanders. These events Baroque, more sumptu ous than
sparked off the War of Independence. anywhere else in Europe.


1805 Battle 1809 Wellington’s troops 1841–3 María Cristina, followed by General
of Trafalgar. join with Spanish to Espartero, acts as regent for Isabel II
Nelson defeats triumph over French
French and at Talavera 1868 Revolution under General Prim
Spanish at sea forces Isabel II into exile. Amadeo I is
Duke of Wellington king for three years from 1870
1780 1800 1820 1840 1860
1808–14 Joseph 1824 Peru is 1836 Mendizábal First Carlist War
Bonaparte on throne. the last South 1833–9 seizes monastic
War of Independence American First property for the
1812 Promulgation of country to gain Carlist Spanish state
liberal constitution in Cádiz independence War 1847–9 Second
leads to military uprising Carlist War




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68  INTRODUCING SP AIN

Republicans and Anarchists

Spain’s First Republic lasted only a year (1873) and consumed
four presidents. The late 19th century was a time of national
decline, with Anarchism developing in reaction to rampant
political corruption. The loss of Cuba, in 1898, was a low point
for Spain, although there was a flurry of literary and artistic
activity in the following years. The country’s increasing
in stability was briefly checked by the dictatorship of Primo The Legacy of Spanish
Colonization in 1900
de Rivera. Spanish politics, however, were becoming Spanish­speaking territories
polarized. Alfonso XIII was forced to abdicate and the
ill-fated Second Republic was declared in 1931.

Anarchist
Propaganda
Anarchism was
idealistic, though
often violent. This
poster states,
“Anarchist books Workers unite,
are weap ons calling for radical
against Fascism”. social reform.











Pío Baroja
Baroja (1872–1956) was
one of the most gifted
novelists of his day. He was
too original to be grouped Power to the People
with the writers of the Political protest was rife under the Second
Generation of 1898, Republic, as shown by this Communist
who tried to create a demonstration in the Basque Country in
national renaissance 1932. Industrial workers banded together,
after the loss of forming trade unions to demand better
Spain’s colonies. pay and working conditions, and staging
strikes. The Spanish Communist Party
developed later than the Anarchists,
but eventually gained more support.


1873 First Republic’s last 1897 Prime
Declaration president, Emilio 1888 Universal Exhibition Minister Cánovas
of First Castelar (1832–99) in Barcelona creates new del Castillo
Republic, buildings and parks, such assassinated by an
lasting only as the Parc de la Ciutadella Italian Anarchist
one year
1870 1880 1890 1900
1875 Second Bourbon 1898 Cuba and
restoration puts Philippines gain
Alfonso XII on throne 1893 Anarchists independence from
bomb opera­ Spain following
1870–75 Third Alfonso XII and goers in the the Spanish­
Carlist War Queen María Barcelona Liceu American War




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THE HIST OR Y OF SP AIN  69

Universal
Exhibitions
In 1929, Seville and
Barcelona were
transformed by
exhibitions
promoting art and
industry. The fairs
brought international
recognition.
Tragic Week
Led by Anarchists and Republicans,
workers in Barcelona took to the streets
in 1909 to resist a military call-up.
The reprisals were brutal. The banner
appeals for
working-class
solidarity.

Picasso
Born in Málaga in
1881, the artist Pablo
Picasso spent his
formative years as a
painter in the city of
Barcelona (see p157)
before moving to
Paris in the 1930s.



Cuban War of Independence
Cuba began its fight for freedom
in 1895, led by local patriots
such as Antonio Maceo. In the
disastrous campaign, Spain
lost 50,000 soldiers and
most of its navy.




The Garrotte
Convicted Anarchists
were executed by the
garrotte – an iron collar
that brutally strangled
the victim while
crushing the neck.


1931 Proclamation
Second Republic 1933 General
1912 Prime Minister election poster of Second Republic election
José Canalejas with a two- returns
murdered by 1921 Crushing defeat year coalition right-wing
Anarchists in Madrid of Spanish army at between Socialists government
Anual, Morocco and Republicans
1900 1910 1920 1930
1909 Semana Trágica 1923 Primo de Rivera 1930 Primo de Rivera 1934 Revolution
(Tragic Week) in Barcelona. stages victorious coup to resigns after losing of Asturian
Workers’ revolt against become military dic tator military support miners
conscription for Moroccan under Alfonso XIII suppressed by
Wars quashed by 1931 Republicans win local elections, army under
Government troops causing Alfonso XIII to abdicate General Franco



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70  INTRODUCING SP AIN

Civil War and the Franco Era

Nationalist generals rose against the govern ment in 1936,
starting the Spanish Civil War. The Nationalists, under
General Franco, were halted by the Republicans outside
Madrid, but with support from Hitler and Mussolini they
inched their way to victory in the north and east. Madrid
finally fell in early 1939. After the war, thousands of
Republicans were executed in reprisals. Spain was Spain on 31 July 1936
internationally isolated until the 1950s, when the United Republican-held areas
States brought her into the Western military alliance. Nationalist-held areas
Anguished mother
with dead child









Franco’s Ideal World
Under Franco, Church and State
were united. This poster shows
the strong influence of religion
on education.








Guernica (1937)
Composition
reflecting total On behalf of advancing Nationalists,
the Nazi Condor Legion bombed the
chaos
Basque town of Gernika-Lumo (see
pp122–3) on 26 April 1937 – a busy
Nationalist Poster market day. This was Europe’s first air
A Nationalist poster raid on civilians, and it inspired Picasso’s
adorned with Fascist shocking Guernica (see p303). Painted
arrows reads “Fight for for a Republican Government exhibition
the Fatherland, Bread in Paris, it is full of symbols of disaster.
and Justice”.
1936 Republican Popular 1938 On 8 January, Republicans lose 1945 By end of World War II,
Front wins the general battle for Teruel in bitter cold Spain is diplomatically and
election on 16 January. On politically isolated
17 July, Nationalist generals 1939 In March, Madrid, Valencia 1947 Spain declared monarchy
rise against Republicans and Alicante fall in quick
succession to Franco’s troops with Franco as regent
1935 1940 1945 1950
1936 Nationalists declare 1939 Franco declares end of 1953 Deal with US
Franco head of state on war on 1 April and demands permits American bases
29 September unconditional surrender on Spanish soil in
1937 On 26 April, Nazi planes from Republicans exchange for aid
bomb Basque town of 1938 On 23 December, Francisco Franco
Guernica (Gernika-Lumo) Nationalists bomb Barcelona overseeing an offensive




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THE HIST OR Y OF SP AIN  71


García Lorca
Federico García Lorca (1898–
1936) was Spain’s most brilliant
dramatist and lyric poet of
the 1920s and 1930s. His
homosexuality and association
with the Left, however, made
him a target for Nationalist
assas sins. He was shot by an
ad hoc firing squad near his
home town of Granada.
Portrait of García Lorca taken in 1919
A wounded horse representing Witnesses to the massacre
the Spanish people stare in wonder and disbelief.
Anarchist Poster
Anarchists fought for the
Republic, forming agricul tural
collectives behind the lines.
Their influence waned when
they were discredited by the
Communist Party.

Crucifixion
gesture











The flower is a symbol of
hope in the midst of despair.
Spanish Refugees
The Hungry Years As the Nationalists came
Ration cards illustrate the post- closer to victory, thousands
war period when Spain nearly of artists, writers, intellectuals
starved. Shunned by other and other Republican
nations, the country received supporters fled Spain into
aid from the US in 1953 in return indefinite exile.
for accepting military bases.

1962 Tourism on
the Mediterranean 1969 Franco 1973 ETA assassinates
coast is boosted declares Prince Juan Admiral Carrero
by official Carlos his successor Blanco, Franco’s hard-
go-ahead line prime minister
Sunbathers
1950 1955 1960 1965 1970 1975
1959 Founding of 1970 “Burgos trials” of the
ETA, Basque regime’s opponents outrage
separatist group world opinion
1975 Death of Franco results in
1955 Spain joins Juan Carlos, third Bourbon restoration as
United Nations King of Spain Juan Carlos is proclaimed king




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72  INTRODUCING SP AIN

Modern Spain

Franco’s death left Spain’s political future hanging in the
balance. But few people wanted to preserve the old regime
and the transition from dictatorship to democracy proved
surprisingly swift and painless. The previously outlawed
Socialist Workers’ Party, under Felipe González, won the
general election in 1982 and set about modern izing Spain.
Considerable power has since been devolved to the regions. Spain Today
For many years a major threat facing central government was Spain
the persistent violence of ETA, the Basque separatist organization. Other European
Union states
Spain’s international relations have been strengthened by its
membership of NATO and the European Union.


Castilla y León’s
modern pavilion Hi-tech
was one of EXPO’s
150 pavilions built to floodlight
innovative designs.





Coup d’Etat, 23 February 1981
Civil Guard colonel, Antonio Tejero, held
parliament at gunpoint for several hours.
Democracy survived because King Juan Carlos
refused to support the rebels.







Anti-NATO
Protest Rally
When Spain joined
NATO in 1982, some Expo ‘92
saw it as a reversal
of Socialist ideals. To Over 100 countries were represented at the
others it represented Universal Exposition, which focused world
an improvement attention on Seville in 1992. The many pavilions
in Spain’s interna­ displayed scientific, technological and
tional standing. cultural exhibits.

Spanish royal family 1992 Barcelona Olympics and Seville
1981 Military officers stage attempted Expo ’92 place Spain firmly within
coup d’etat to overthrow democracy community of modern European nations
1998 ETA, the Basque separatist terrorist
1983 Semi­autonomous regional governments are group, announces a ceasefire that lasts a year Cobi, Barcelona
established to appease Basque Country and Catalonia Olympic Mascot
1980 1985 1990 1995 2000
1982 Landslide electoral 1986 Spain joins EC 1994/5
1977 First free elections victory brings Socialist (now EU) and NATO Corruption 2000 Spain cele brates
return centrist overnment Workers’ Party (PSOE), scandals 1996 In the general 25 years of democracy
under Adolfo Suárez. under Felipe González, 1992 Spain celebrates rock the election on 3 March, and reign of Juan Carlos I
Political parties, including to power. Football World quincentenary of long­serving González loses to a
Communists, are legalized Cup held in Spain Columbus’s voyage to America government coalition led by Aznar




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THE HIST OR Y OF SP AIN  73


Tourism
Spain ranks as the
third most visited
country in the
world. A record
number of visitors
(in excess of 75
million) visited the
country in 2016.


Ana Belén
Felipe González Elected Spanish women enjoyed
In 1982 the Spanish Socialist Workers’ much greater freedom
Party (PSOE) leader was elected Leaning and opportunity upon the
prime minister. González transformed blue tower advent of democracy. In a
Spain during his 13 years in power. rises above 1980s opinion poll,
Andalucía’s they voted the
pavilion.
singer and actress
Ana Belén the
woman they
most admired.





El País
Founded in Madrid in
1976, the liberal daily
El País is the best-
selling newspaper
in Spain. During
the transition to
democracy it had a
great influence on
public opinion.







A monorail Barcelona Olympic Games
carried visitors The opening ceremony of the
around the site. Barcelona Olympics included
stunning displays of music,
dance and colourful costumes.


2004 José Luis 2008 José Luis Rodríguez Zapatero of the
Rodríguez Zapatero of Spanish Socialist Party is re-elected on 9 March
the Spanish Socialist
Party comes into 2011 Mariano Rajoy of the Popular Party
Cobi, Barcelona comes into power on 20 November Mariano Rajoy
Olympic Mascot power on 14 March
2000 2005 2010 2015 2020
2004 Madrid is hit by 2014 King 2016 The Popular Party narrowly
2000 Spain cele brates the worst terrorist attacks wins the general election, despite
1996 In the general 25 years of democracy in Spain’s modern history 2011 ETA Juan Carlos I corruption scandals
election on 3 March, and reign of Juan Carlos I in March. Bombs announces a abdicates in
González loses to a detonated on the city’s permanent favour of his 2015 No party wins a majority
coalition led by Aznar trains killed 191 people ceasefire son, Felipe VI in the general election



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74  INTRODUCING SP AIN

Rulers of Spain
1665–1700
Spain became a nation-state under Isabel and Fernando, Carlos II
whose marriage eventually united Castile and Aragón. With
their daughter Juana’s marriage, the kingdom was delivered into
Habsburg hands. Carlos I and Felipe II were both capable rulers,
but in 1700 Carlos II died without leaving an heir. After the War of
the Spanish Succession, Spain came under the French Bourbons,
who have ruled ever since – apart from an interregnum, two
republics and Franco’s dictatorship. The current Bourbon king,
Felipe VI, a constitutional monarch, is respected for
his social work and his support of democracy.

1479–1516
Fernando, King
of Aragón






1516–56 Carlos I of Spain
1474–1504 Isabel, (Holy Roman Emperor 1598–1621 Felipe III
Queen of Castile Charles V)
1400 1475 1550 1625
Independent Kingdoms Habsburg Dynasty
1400 1475 1550 1625

1469 Marriage of Isabel 1504–16 Juana la
and Fernando leads to Loca (with Fernando 1621–65
unification of Spain as regent) Felipe IV












Fernando and Isabel, the Catholic Monarchs
Unification of Spain
In the late 15th century the two largest king doms
in developing Christian Spain – Castile, with its
military might, and Aragón (including Barcelona and
a Mediterranean empire) – were united. The marriage 1700–24 Felipe V
of Isabel of Castile and Fernando of Aragón in 1469
joined these powerful kingdoms. Together the
so-called Catholic Monarchs defeated the Nasrid
Kingdom of Granada, the last stronghold of the
Moors (see pp60–61). With the addition of Navarra
in 1512, Spain was finally unified.
1556–98 Felipe II







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THE HIST OR Y OF SP AIN  75
















1843–68 Isabel II reigns, following
the regency of her mother María
Cristina (1833–41) and General
Espartero (1841–3)
1724 Luis I reigns after Felipe V’s 1871–3 Break in 1939–75 General Franco
abdication, but dies within a year Bourbon rule: Amadeo Head of State
I of Savoy
1931–9
1814–33 First Bourbon Second Republic
restoration, following
French rule: Fernando VII 2014 Felipe VI
1875–85
1759–88 Second Bourbon
Carlos III restoration: Alfonso XII
1700 1775 1850 1925 2000
Bourbon Dynasty Bourbon Bourbon
1700 1775 1850 1925 2000

1808–13 Break in
Bourbon rule:
1746–59 Napoleon’s brother,
Fernando VI
Joseph Bonaparte,
rules as José I
1724–46 Felipe V
reinstated as king
upon the death of
his son, Luis I
1902–31 Alfonso XIII

1886–1902 María Cristina of
1788–1808 Carlos IV Habsburg-Lorraine as regent
for Alfonso XIII
1873–4
First Republic
1700–24 Felipe V

1868–70 The
Septembrina Revolution



1975–2014 Third Bourbon
restoration: Juan Carlos I




074-075_EW_Spain.indd 75 26/09/17 11:52 am

076-077_EW_Spain.indd 76 26/09/17 11:52 am

NORTHERN


SPAIN





Introducing Northern Spain 78–87

Galicia 88–103
Asturias and Cantabria 104–117
The Basque Country, Navarra
and La Rioja 118–139
















































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78  NOR THERN SP AIN

Introducing Northern Spain

Countless visitors are drawn to the magnificent landscapes
of Northern Spain. The Atlantic coast, running from the
Pyrenees to the Portuguese border, combines sandy beaches
of intense blue waters with green mountains and valleys.
All along the coast of Galicia, with its dramatic cliffs in the
north and smooth beaches in the south, are attractive rías,
or inlets. The famous medieval pilgrimage route to the city
of Santiago de Compostela crosses Northern Spain, its
way marked by magnificent examples of Romanesque
architecture. Plentiful seafood and dairy produce, and the
outstanding red wines of La Rioja, add to the pleasure of a
tour through this part of Spain. Oviedo (see pp110–11) has a
number of Pre-Romanesque
churches, most notably the
graceful Santa María del Naranco,
and a fine Gothic cathedral.
Ortigueira
Viveiro
Ferrol Canero Avilés
Ribadeo Gijón
A Coruña Santander
La Espina Llanes
Vilalba
Betanzos Oviedo Laredo
Panes Torrelavega Bilbao San Sebastián
ASTURIAS AND CANTABRIA
(See pp104–117) Eibar Andoain
Santiago de Llodio Zumárraga
Compostela Arzúa Lugo Corconte
Reinosa
THE BASQUE COUNTRY,
Vitoria
Padrón (Gasteiz) NAVARRA AND
LA RIOJA Pamplona
GALICIA Miranda de Ebro (See pp118–39)
(See pp88–103)
Pontevedra
Quiroga
Vigo Ourense Logroño
Calahorra
Torrecilla
en Cameros
Tudela
The Rías Baixas
(see p99) is one of
Spain’s prettiest Santiago de Compostela
coastlines. Scattered (see pp94–5) attracts
around its pretty thousands of pilgrims and
towns and villages tourists each year. Its majestic
are many quaint cathedral was one of the
hórreos, grain stores, most important shrines in
raised on stone stilts. medieval Christendom.
0 kilometres 50
0 miles 50

The Picos de Europa mountain range
(see pp112–13) dominates the landscape
of Asturias and Cantabria. Rivers have
carved deep gorges through the
mountains and there are many footpaths
through a variety of spectacular scenery.
Dramatic stretch of the Cantabrian coastline


078-079_EW_Spain.indd 78 26/09/17 11:00 am
Eyewitness Travel LAYERS PRINTED:
Flashmap template “UK” LAYER
(Source v1.2)
Date 7th January 2013
Size 125mm x 217mm

INTRODUCING NOR THERN SP AIN  79



Santillana del Mar
(see p116), with its well-
preserved medieval streets, is one
of the most picturesque towns
in Spain. The Convento de Regina
Coeli houses a small museum
containing a collection of
painted wooden figures and
other works of religious art.





San Sebastián (see p126), the
most elegant holiday resort in
the Basque Country, is sited
around a beautiful horseshoe
bay of golden sandy beaches.
Ortigueira The city hosts international
Viveiro arts events, including Spain’s
premier film festival.
Ferrol Canero Avilés
Ribadeo Gijón
A Coruña Santander
La Espina Llanes
Vilalba
Betanzos Oviedo Laredo
Panes Torrelavega Bilbao San Sebastián
ASTURIAS AND CANTABRIA
(See pp104–117) Eibar Andoain
Santiago de Llodio Zumárraga
Compostela Arzúa Lugo Corconte
Reinosa
THE BASQUE COUNTRY,
Vitoria
Padrón (Gasteiz) NAVARRA AND
LA RIOJA Pamplona
GALICIA Miranda de Ebro (See pp118–39)
(See pp88–103)
Pontevedra
Quiroga
Vigo Ourense Logroño
Calahorra
Torrecilla
en Cameros
Tudela











Pamplona (see pp136–7), the capital
of Navarra since the 9th century, is
best known for its annual fiesta, Los The Monasterio de Leyre (see p139), founded in the early
Sanfermines. The highlight of each 11th century, was built in a lonely but attractive landscape.
day of riotous celebration is the The monastery was once the burial place of the kings of
encierro, in which bulls stampede Navarra and its crypt is among the finest examples of early
through the streets of the city. Romanesque art in Spain.




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80  NOR THERN SP AIN


The Flavours of Northern Spain

The wild, wet north of Spain is as famous for its rain as it is for
its culinary excellence. The rain keeps the pastures lush and
green – perfect dairy farming terrain – and the Atlantic provides
an incredible variety of seafood. The Basques, in particular, are
celebrated chefs, and the region boasts some of the finest
restaurants in Europe, along with gastronomic societies (called
txokos) in every village. Inland and in the remoter regions you’ll
find old-fashioned country cooking – roast lamb and tender
young beef, slow-cooked stews – and traditionally made cheeses.
Idiazábal cheese
Padrón (one in every dozen has the lush green pastures form
a spicy kick). Inland, you’ll find Spain’s dairy country – most
tender veal, pork specialities Spanish milk, cream and some
and delicate soft cheeses such of its finest cheeses come from
as delicious tetilla. this region. Try Asturian
Cabrales, a pungent blue
Asturias and Cantabria
cheese, best accompanied
The bay-pocked coastline by a glass of local cider. The
provides delicious fresh fish, mountains provide succulent
often served simply grilled (try meat and game, often
the fabulous sardines offered traditionally stewed with
in almost every port) or slowly beans, as in the celebrated
simmered in casseroles. Inland, Asturian dish of fabada.
Pulpo a la gallega, Galicia’s signature dish
Red mullet Mackerel
Galicia Clams Oysters
Elvers
The westernmost tip of Spain,
battered by the Atlantic into
a series of plunging rías, is
famous for its wealth of
seafood – from staples like
dried and salted cod (bacalao)
to unusual delicacies like
barnacles (percebes), which
look like tiny dinosaur feet.
Every bar will serve up a Baby octopus
plate of pulpo a la gallega
or a dish of pimientos del Fish and seafood from the waters of Northern Spain

Regional Dishes and Specialities
Unsurprisingly, seafood rules supreme along the
coastline, from the ubiquitous octopus in a mildly
piquant sauce served in Galicia, to the extraordinary
spider crabs, a sought-after delicacy in the
Basque Lands. The verdant pastures and rich
farmland provide a wealth of fresh vege tables,
including Navarra’s justly famous asparagus,
along with all kinds of wonderful cheeses. Slow-
cooked stews, an Asturian speciality, are particularly
good in the mount ains, along with tender lamb and
Cherries outstanding game in season. The renowned wines
from La Rioja are excellent, but those of adjoining
Navarra are less pricey and often equally interesting. The Bacalao al Pil Pil Salted cod
crisp whites of Galicia and the Basque Lands are the perfect is slowly cooked with olive oil,
accompani ment to the fresh seafood, and throughout the chilli and garlic to create this
north you’ll find powerful liqueurs flavoured with local herbs. classic Basque dish.







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Eyewitness Travel LAYERS PRINTED:
Feature template “UK” LAYER
(SourceReport v1.3)
Date 18th October 2012
Size 125mm x 217mm

INTRODUCING NOR THERN SP AIN  81



to flavour embutidos, or
cured meats). In the Navarrese
mountains, lamb is the most
popular meat and you will
find cordero al chilindrón
(lamb stew) featuring on
almost every menu. In
season, you’ll also find richly
flavoured game, including
partridge, hare and pheasant.
Tiny La Rioja is Spain’s
most famous wine region,
producing rich, oaky reds
and whites (see pp82–3). The
cuisine of La Rioja borrows
Array of pintxos laid out in a bar in the Basque Country from the neighbouring
Basque Country and Navarra,
Basque Country Navarra and La Rioja with lamb featuring heavily,
The Basque Country is a The fertile farmland of along with seafood and
paradise for gourmets, landlocked Navarra produces top-quality local vegetables.
renowned throughout Spain a spectacular array of fruit and
for the excellence of its natural vegetables such as aspara gus, On the Menu
produce and the creative artichokes, cherries, chestnuts
brilliance of its chefs. Basque and peppers (often hung in Angulas a la Bilbaína Baby
cuisine leans towards seafood, pretty strings to dry and used eels cooked in olive oil with
of which there is a dazzling garlic – a Basque delicacy.
variety: humble salted cod Cocido Montañés Cantabrian
and hake (made extraordinary stew of pork, spicy sausage,
with delicious sauces) are vegetables – and a pig’s ear.
most common, but sought- Fabada Asturiana Asturian
after delicacies include elvers beans stewed with cured
(baby eels) and spider crab. meats and pork.
Basque wines, drunk young Pimientos del Padrón
and tart, are the perfect A Gallego dish of green peppers
counterpoint. Bar counters fried in olive oil with rock salt.
groan with platters of pintxos Pulpo a la Gallega Octopus,
(crusty bread with gourmet cooked until tender in a mildly
toppings), each one of them a spicy paprika sauce.
miniature work of art, and the Trucha a la Navarra Trout,
Baby octopus Basques also make wonderful stuffed with ham and quickly
cheeses, including delicate, Red peppers strung up to dry in the sun grilled or fried.
smoky Idiazábal. outside a house
















Empanada Gallega The perfect Chilindrón de Cordero A rich, Leche Frita “Fried milk” is a
picnic snack, these golden hearty stew from the mountains scrumptious, custardy dessert
pastries are stuffed with all of Navarra, this is made with from Cantabria. Simple but
kinds of fillings. succulent lamb. utterly delicious.






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82  NOR THERN SP AIN


Wines of Northern Spain

Spain’s most renowned wine region, La Rioja, is best
known for its red wines, matured to a distinctive
vanilla mellowness. Some of the most prestigious
bodegas were founded by émigrés from Bordeaux,
and Rioja reds are similar to claret. La Rioja also
produces good white and rosé wines. Navarra reds
and some whites have improved dramatically, thanks
to a gov ernment research programme. The Basque Repairing barrels in Haro, La Rioja
region produces a tiny amount of the tart txakoli
(chacolí). Larger quantities of a similar wine are made
further west in Galicia, whose best wines are full- Ribeiro, a popular wine
of Galicia, is slightly
bodied whites, particularly from the Albariño grape. fizzy. It is often served
in white porcelain
bowls (cuencos).
Ferrol
A8 Avilés Gijón
A Coruña
Navia Oviedo A8 Llanes Santander A8 Laredo San
A6 Mieres Zumaia Sebastián
C525 ASTURIAS Bilbao
AP9 Nalón CANTABRIA AP8 Getaria
Santiago de Lugo Narcea A66 N621 PAÍS
Compostela A67 AP68 VASCO N1
A6 A15 N121A
GALICIA Key A1 A10
AP9 AP53 Mino Miranda Vitoria Pamplona
Cambados N540 Rías Baixas de Ebro Estella NAVARRA
Barrantes N120 Ribeiro
Pontevedra O Barco Haro A12 Tafalla
A Rúa Valdeorras
Ribadavia Ourense N120 Logroño AP15
Vigo Txacoli de Guetaria
A52 Larouco Nájera AP68 Ebro
Mino La Rioja Calahorra
Navarra LA RIOJA
Fornelos A52 Corella
A52 Tudela
0 kilometres 50
0 miles 50
Lagar de Cervera
is from Rías Baixas,
a region known for
producing Spain’s
most fashionable
white wines.
Wine Regions
The wine regions of Northern Spain are widely
dispersed. Cradled between the Pyrenees and
the Atlantic are the important regions of Rioja
and Navarra. Wines from La Rioja are divided
into the DOs (denominations of origin) of Rioja
Alavesa, Rioja Alta and Rioja Baja, divided by the
Río Ebro. The river also cuts through the wine
region of Navarra. To the north are some of the
vineyards of the Basque Country: the minuscule
Txakoli de Guetaria region. In the far west lie the
four wine regions of rugged, wet Galicia: Rías
Baixas, Ribeiro, Valdeorras and Ribeira Sacra. Wine village of El Villar de Álava in Rioja Alta





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INTRODUCING NOR THERN SP AIN  83















Gathering the grape harvest in the traditional way in Navarra
Remelluri, one
of the single- Chivite, from a family
estate “Château” bodega in Navarra, is
Riojas, from the made entirely from
vineyards of Rioja Tempranillo and aged in
Alavesa, is soft the barrel, resulting in a
and not too oaky. style similar to Rioja.
Ferrol
A8 Avilés Gijón
A Coruña
Navia Oviedo A8 Llanes Santander A8 Laredo San
A6 Mieres Zumaia Sebastián
C525 ASTURIAS Bilbao
AP9 Nalón CANTABRIA AP8 Getaria
Santiago de Lugo Narcea A66 N621 PAÍS
Compostela A67 AP68 VASCO N1
A6 A15 N121A
GALICIA Key A1 A10
AP9 AP53 Mino Miranda Vitoria Pamplona
Cambados N540 Rías Baixas de Ebro Estella NAVARRA
Barrantes N120 Ribeiro
Pontevedra O Barco Haro A12 Tafalla
A Rúa Valdeorras
Ribadavia Ourense N120 Logroño AP15
Vigo Txacoli de Guetaria
A52 Larouco Nájera AP68 Ebro
Mino La Rioja Calahorra
Navarra Viña Ardanza LA RIOJA
Fornelos A52 is blended, as are most Corella
A52 red Riojas. The best, like Tudela
this reserva, are aged for
two or more years in
American oak casks.
Key Facts about Wines of Northern Spain
La Rioja and Navarra are influ- important in Navarra, is used for the excellent
enced by both Mediterranean rosados (rosés). Whites of Navarra and Rioja are
and Atlantic weather systems. The made mainly from the Viura grape. Galicia has
hillier, northwestern parts receive many local varieties, such as Albariño, Godello,
some Atlantic rain, while the hot Ebro plain has Loureira and Treixadura.
a Mediterranean climate. The Basque region and
Galicia are both cool, Atlantic regions with high Good Producers
rainfall. Soils everywhere are stony and poor, Rías Baixas: Fillaboa, Palacio de
except in the Ebro plain. Fefiñanes, Terras Gauda, Santiago Ruiz.
Ribeiro: Viña Costeira. La Rioja: Baigorri,
Grape Varieties Bodegas Riojanas (Canchales, Monte
The great red grape of La Rioja and Real), CVNE (Imperial, Viña Real Oro), Marqués de
Navarra is Tempranillo. In Rioja it is Cáceres, Marqués de Murrieta, Marqués de Riscal,
blended with smaller quantities Martínez Bujanda, Remelluri, La Rioja Alta (Barón
of Garnacha, Graciano and Mazuelo, while in de Oña). Navarra: Bodega de Sarría, Guelbenzu,
Navarra Cabernet Sauvignon is permitted and Julián Chivite (Gran Feudo), Magaña, Ochoa,
blends well with Tempranillo. Garnacha, also Príncipe de Viana.






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84  NOR THERN SP AIN


Forests of the North

Much of Spain was once blanketed by a mantle of
trees. Today, just ten per cent of the original cover
remains, mostly in the mountainous north, where
rainfall is high and slopes too steep for cultivation.
Large areas of mixed deciduous forest – mainly
beech, Pyrenean oak and chestnut, with some ash
and lime – dominate the landscape, particularly in
Cantabria and the Basque Country. The undergrowth
of shrubs and flowering plants provides habitats for
many insects, mammals and birds. The forests are
also the refuge of Spain’s last brown bears (see p108).
Forest in Northern Spain in autumn
Beech Forest
Regeneration of Beech, the dominant species in
the forest the Cantabrian mountains and
Dead materials – leaves, twigs Pyrenees, grows on well-drained
and the excrement and bodies of soils. Some trees retain their
animals – are broken down by distinctive copper-red leaves
various organisms on the forest Beech leaf through the winter. Beech mast
floor, especially fungi, bacteria and mast (nuts) are collected to feed to pigs.
and ants. This process releases
nutrients which are absorbed The thick crown shuts Long, thin
Fly agaric by trees and other plants, out light, inhibiting orange buds
mushrooms enabling them to grow. undergrowth.
Lichens grow slowly
and are sensitive to
pollution. Their
presence in a forest
often indicates that
it is in good health.





The stag beetle takes its name
from the huge antler-like
mandibles of the male.
Despite their fero- Male golden orioles,
cious appearance, among the most colourful
these beetles are European birds, are hard to
harmless to humans. spot because they spend
much of their time in the
thick cover provided by old
woodlands. Females and
juveniles are a duller
yellow-green with a
brownish tail.
Beech martens are nocturnal.
By day, they sleep in a
hollow tree or
another animal’s
abandoned nest.
At night they feed on
Millipede on a woodland floor fruit, birds and
small mammals.





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INTRODUCING NOR THERN SP AIN  85



Distribution of Broad-Leaved Forests 0 kilometres 100
0 miles 100





Key Above 1,000 mm
Below 1,000 mm
Oak
Beech
Chestnut
Dense broad-leaved forests tend
Average annual rainfall to grow in areas of Northern Spain
that have high precipitation.
Chestnut Forest Oak Forest
Chestnut trees grow on well- Three main species of oak tree –
drained acidic soils. They have pedunculate, Pyrenean and the
slender yellow flowers and in evergreen holm oak – dominate
summer produce their fruit, which the ancient wood lands of the
is eaten by wild boar, dormice, north. Over 300 species of animal,
Leaf and squirrels and mice. The wood is Oak leaf and acorn such as wild boar, squirrels and
chestnut hard and durable but splits easily. nut hatches, feed off oaks.
Large leaves
have sharp, Few massive, Grey twigs ending in
serrated spreading branches numerous buds
edges.












Deep spiral ridges
on trunk

The pipistrelle bat is a nocturnal species The jay, a member of
common in woodlands. It catches and the crow family, is a
eats small insects in flight. Larger common but some what
insects are taken to a perch. shy woodland bird with a
The bat hibernates in distinctively raucous cry. It can
winter in a hollow be identified in flight by its white
tree or cave. rump, black tail and above all by
its bright-blue wing patch.


Blue tits feed mainly Red squirrels bury large numbers
in the tree canopy of of acorns during autumn to last
broad-leaved woods and through winter, since these diurnal
rarely come down to the ground. creatures do not
The male and female have similar, hibernate. Many
distinctive plumage. They may of the acorns are
raise the back feathers of the left to sprout
crown if alarmed. into seedlings.





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86  NOR THERN SP AIN


The Road to Santiago

According to legend the body of Christ’s apostle James
was brought to Galicia. In AD 813 the relics were
supposedly discovered at Santiago de Compostela,
where a cath edral was built in his honour (see pp96–7).
In the Middle Ages half a million pilgrims a year flocked
there from all over Europe, crossing the Pyrenees at
Roncesvalles (see p138) or via the Somport Pass (see
p234). They often donned the traditional garb of cape,
long staff and curling felt hat adorned with scallop
shells, the symbol of the saint. The various routes,
marked by the cathedrals, churches and hospitals
built along them, are still used by travellers today.



Astorga (see p356), 19th-century painting of the Pórtico
once a Roman da Gloria of Santiago Cathedral
city, was an
impor tant halt
on the pilgrim
route in the
Middle Ages.
The museum within
its cathedral has a
collection of gold and
silver plate including a
13th-century gold
filigree cross.
A certificate is given to O Cebreiro (see p103)
pilgrims covering 100 km has a 9th-century church
(62 miles) of the route on and some of the ancient
foot, or 200 km (125 miles) pallozas the pilgrims often León was one of the main pilgrim
used for shelter.
on horseback. stops. Its cathedral (see pp358–9)
contains one of Spain’s finest
collections of stained glass.
Ribadeo
•
A Coruña Oviedo
• •
Maritime Route
Santiago de Vilar de
Donas
Compostela
• •
Ligonde • Villafranca del
Portuguese Route Porto Ponferrada’s Ponferrada • • León
•
O Cebreiro
Bierzo
•
•
huge Templar
Lisboa
castle stands
close to the Astorga • Hospital Sahagún
•
de Órbigo
Vigo • • Tui Silver Route town centre
(see p355).
0 kilometres 50
Salamanca
0 miles 50
086-087_EW_Spain.indd 86 26/09/17 11:53 am

INTRODUCING NOR THERN SP AIN  87



Romanesque Church Architecture
The Romanesque style of architecture (see p28)
was brought to Spain from France during the
10th and 11th centuries. As the pilgrimage to
Santiago became more popular, many glorious
religious buildings were constructed along its
main routes. Massive walls, few windows,
Carved capital round heavy arches and barrel vaulting are
typical features of Romanesque architecture.
Octagonal Twin round Barrel
lantern towers vault
Thick Round
walls arch






Façade Cross-section
San Martín de Frómista Parallel apses Aisle Nave
(see p372), built in the
11th century, is the only
complete example of
the “pilgrimage” style of
Romanesque. The nave
and aisles are almost the
same height and there
are three parallel apses. Floorplan
Pamplona’s (see pp136–7) Gothic
cathedral was one of the pilgrims’ Puente la Reina
first stops after crossing the (see p135) takes its
Pyrenees at Roncesvalles. name from the
11th-century
humpbacked bridge
Santo Domingo de la (puente), built for
Calzada’s (see p132) pilgrim pilgrims and still used
hospital is now a parador. by pedestrians.
Santander San Sebastián
• Paris
(Donostia)
•
Northern Route •
Bilbo Le Puy
(Bilbao) Orreaga Vézelay
Frómista preserves (Roncesvalles) • Valcarlos
one of the finest • Arles
Romanesque churches
on the French route. Iruña(Pamplona)
• Aragonese Route
Lizarra (Estella) • Puente la • • Jaca
•
•
Nájera French Route Reina Sangüesa San Juan de
San Juan de
Ortega • • • Logroño la Peña
• Santo Domingo
• de la Calzada
• Burgos Routes to Santiago
Frómista
Several traditional pilgrimage roads
converge on Santiago de Compostela.
The main road from the Pyrenees is
Burgos has a magnificent known as the French Route, with the
Gothic cathedral (see pp376–7). Aragonese Route as a variation.
086-087_EW_Spain.indd 87 26/09/17 11:53 am

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NOR THERN SP AIN  89

GALICIA


Lugo • A Coruña • Pontevedra • Ourense

Remotely located in the northwest corner of the peninsula,
Galicia is the country’s greenest region. It is also Spain’s
main seafaring region – three of its four provinces have
an Atlantic coast line, and its cuisine is based around superb
seafood. The inland villages maintain a slow and relaxed
pace of life, with many locals growing their own vegetables
and keeping small farmyard animals.

The Galicians, whose origins are Celtic, Compostela as Europe’s most impor tant
are fiercely proud of their culture and religious shrine after St Peter’s in Rome.
language. The region’s official language, Every year, hundreds of pilgrims and
used on most signs, is Gallego. It has tourists still follow this ancient route
similarities to the language of Portugal, of pilgrimage across Northern Spain.
which borders Galicia to the south. The The Galician coast is characterized by
Celtic character of this haunting land is impressive cliffs, islands and fjord-like
still evident in the Galicians’ favourite rías; the loveliest of these are the Rías
tra ditional instrument, the bagpipes, and Baixas in the west. Elsewhere it juts
much of Galicia still has a medieval quality. defiantly into the Atlantic in rocky
The misty, emerald countryside abounds headlands, such as Cabo Fisterra, Spain’s
with old granite villages and is dotted with most westerly point. Many people still
pazos – traditional stone manor houses. make a living from the sea, whether in
The discovery of the supposed tomb of the fishing or ship -building industry and
St James the Apostle, in the 9th century, Vigo, in Pontevedra, is the most important
confirmed medieval Santiago de fishing port in Spain.



























Staple crops – maize, cabbages and potatoes – growing on the harsh land around Cabo Fisterra
Grand spiral staircase in the Convento de San Domingos de Bonaval, Santiago de Compostela



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90  NOR THERN SP AIN

Exploring Galicia

Santiago de Compostela is Galicia’s major tourist attraction.
This beautiful city is the centrepiece of a region with many
fine old towns, especially Betanzos, Mondoñedo, Lugo and
Pontevedra. The resorts along the coastline of the wild
Rías Altas, with their back drop of forest-covered hills, offer Cabo Ortegal R Í A S A L T A S
O Barqueiro
good bathing. The Rías Baixas, the southern part of Galicia’s San Andrés
de Teixido
west coast, has sheltered coves and sandy beaches, and Ortigueira Cervo
excellent seafood in abundance. Travelling through the Musicians dressed in traditional Cedeira Viveiro Burela
interior, where life seems to have changed little in costumes playing in Pontevedra Cabo Prior Foz Oviedo
centuries, is an ideal way to spend a peaceful, rural holiday. Ferreira Ribadeo
Narón As Pontes de Vegadeo
Ferrol
Fene
Sights at a Glance Ría de Betanzos Pontedeume García Rodriguez MONDOÑEDO
Cabreiros
1 Rías Altas Embalse Porto da Xesta A Pontenova
Cabo San
2 Mondoñedo A T L A N T I C O C E A N A CORUÑA do Eume 590m
Malpica
Adrián
3 Betanzos Caión Cambre Vilalba
4 A Coruña BETANZOS Miño
5 Costa da Morte Laxe Carballo Laracha Meira Eo
6 Santiago de Compostela C O S TA D A M O R T E Baamonde
pp94–7 Mesón do Vento Guitiriz Rábade
7 Padrón Camariñas Curtis-Estación A Fonsagrada
8 A Toxa Muxía Vimianzo Santa Comba Ordes
9 Pontevedra Dumbría Monasterio Friol
Sobrado
0 Vigo Embalse de Tambre de Los Monjes LUGO Nadela
q Baiona Fervenza SANTIAGO DE Arzúa O Corgo Navia de Suarna
w A Guarda Fisterra Corcubión Embalse de COMPOSTELA Melide VILAR DE DONAS
e Tui Cabo Barrié de la Maza Guntín Becerreá
r Celanova Fisterra Carnota Outes Palas de Rei
t Verín Muros Noia GALICIA Pedrafita
y Ourense Ulla A Golada Sarria Samos do Cebreiro
u Monasterio de Ribas de Sil PADRÓN Embalse
de Belesar
i Monasterio de Oseira Boiro A Estrada Lalín O CEBREIRO
o Vilar de Donas Cuntis Chantada Ponferrada
p Lugo R Vilagarcía de Arousa Caldas de Reis O Castro León
a O Cebreiro í Ribeira Cerdedo MONASTERIO Monforte de Lemos
Cambados DE OSEIRA
a
s
A TOXA Soutelo Quiroga
Brués

MONASTERIO DE
Combarro Carballiño O Barco
RIBAS DE SIL
PONTEVEDRA A Rúa
B
a Marín Castro Caldelas
Illa de OURENSE
i Ponte Caldelas Puebla de Trives
Ons
x
Embalse
Redondela de Prada
a
Cangas Ribadavia Bibei
s
A Veiga
Illas Cíes VIGO A Cañiza Cortegada
Ponteareas Viana do Bolo
Allariz Vilar de Barrio
Porriño CELANOVA
BAIONA Salvaterra Embalse
de Miño das Portas A Gudiña
Xinzo
TUI Bande de Limia
Braga Limia Valladolid
Monasterio de Viana do Castelo
Santa María Miño Monterrei
VERÍN
A GUARDA
POR TUGAL Vila Real
0 kilometres 25
0 miles 15
The isolated monastery at Ribas de Sil
090-091_EW_Spain.indd 90 26/09/17 11:53 am

GALICIA  91

Getting Around
The region’s main airports are at
A Coruña, Santiago de Compostela and
Vigo. A network of motorways connects
Verín, Vigo, A Coruña and O Cebreiro, but
traffic along the coast can be heavy. Rail
Cabo Ortegal R Í A S A L T A S lines link Galicia’s major cities, and towns
San Andrés O Barqueiro along the north coast are served by the
de Teixido RENFE line (see p629). Coach services
Cervo run between the major cities.
Ortigueira
Cedeira Viveiro Burela
Cabo Prior Ferreira Foz Ribadeo Oviedo
Narón As Pontes de Vegadeo
Ferrol
A T L A N T I C O C E A N Caión Ría de Betanzos Pontedeume Vilalba Porto da Xesta Miño A Pontenova
Fene
García Rodriguez
MONDOÑEDO
Cabreiros
Embalse
Cabo San
A CORUÑA
590m
do Eume
Malpica
Adrián
Cambre
C O S TA D A M O R T E Laxe Carballo Mesón do Vento Curtis-Estación Rábade Meira A Fonsagrada
BETANZOS
Laracha
Eo
Baamonde
Guitiriz
Camariñas
Vimianzo
Muxía
Dumbría Santa Comba Ordes Monasterio Friol LUGO
Sobrado
Embalse de Tambre de Los Monjes Nadela
Fervenza SANTIAGO DE Arzúa O Corgo Navia de Suarna
Fisterra Corcubión Embalse de COMPOSTELA Melide VILAR DE DONAS
Barrié de la Maza
Cabo Guntín Becerreá
Fisterra Outes Palas de Rei
Carnota GALICIA
Muros Noia Ulla Sarria Samos Pedrafita
do Cebreiro
PADRÓN A Golada Embalse
A Estrada de Belesar O CEBREIRO
Boiro Lalín
Cuntis Ponferrada
Vilagarcía de Arousa Chantada León
Caldas de Reis O Castro
R
Ribeira MONASTERIO
í
Cerdedo Monforte de Lemos
Cambados DE OSEIRA Calvary in Pontevedra’s
a
s
A TOXA Soutelo Quiroga Praza de la Herrería
Brués

MONASTERIO DE
Combarro Carballiño O Barco
RIBAS DE SIL
PONTEVEDRA A Rúa
B
a Marín Castro Caldelas
Illa de OURENSE
i Ponte Caldelas Puebla de Trives
Ons
x
Embalse
Redondela de Prada
a
Cangas Ribadavia Bibei
s
A Veiga
Illas Cíes VIGO A Cañiza Cortegada
Ponteareas Viana do Bolo
Allariz Vilar de Barrio
Porriño CELANOVA
BAIONA Salvaterra Embalse
de Miño das Portas A Gudiña Key
Xinzo
TUI Bande de Limia Motorway
Braga Limia Valladolid
Monasterio de Viana do Castelo Major road
Santa María Miño Monterrei Minor road
VERÍN
A GUARDA Scenic route
Main railway
POR TUGAL Vila Real Minor railway
International border
Regional border
For keys to symbols see back flap
090-091_EW_Spain.indd 91 26/09/17 11:53 am

92  NOR THERN SP AIN


8 September. Ac cording to 3 Betanzos
legend, those who fail to visit the A Coruña. * 13,000. £ @ n Praza
church in their lifetime will come de Galicia 1, 981 77 66 66. ( Tue, Thu
back to it as an animal in the & Sat. _ San Roque (14–25 Aug).
afterlife. The village of Cedeira,
which sits on a quiet bay, is a rich The handsome town of
summer resort with neat lawns, Betanzos lies in a fertile valley
modern houses with galerías, slightly inland. Its broad main
and a long, curving beach. square has a replica of the
Fountain of Diana at Versailles.
In its steep narrow streets are
2 Mondoñedo fine old houses and Gothic
Lugo. * 3,800. @ n Praza da churches. The Iglesia de
Catedral 34, 982 50 71 77. ( Thu. Santiago, built in the 15th
_ As Quendas (1 May), Nuestra century by the tailors’ guild,
Señora de los Remedios (2nd Sun has a statue of St James on
in Sep), San Lucas (18 Oct). horseback above the door.
Carved coat of arms on a house front The Iglesia de San Francisco,
in Mondoñedo This delightful town is set in dated 1387, has statues of wild
a fertile inland valley. Stately boars and a heraldic emblem
1 Rías Altas houses with carved coats of of Earl Fernán Pérez de Andrade,
arms and galerías are in the main whose 14th-century tomb is
Lugo & A Coruña. £ Ribadeo. @
Viveiro. n Foz, 982 13 24 26. ( Tue. square. This is dominated by the inside the church. For centuries
cathedral, a building of golden his family were the overlords of
Deep rías are interspersed with stone with a Roman esque the region.
coves and headlands along portal, a 16th-century stained-
the beautiful north coast from glass rose window, 17th- Environs
Ribadeo to A Coruña. Inland century cloisters 20 km (12 miles) north is the
are hills covered with forests and 18th-century large, though pretty,
of pine and eucalyptus. Many Baroque towers. fishing village of
of the small resorts and fishing A statue in a Pontedeume,
villages are charming. chapel in the with its narrow,
The lovely, winding Ría de cathedral, Nuestra hilly streets. Its
Ribadeo forms the border with Señora la Inglesa, medieval bridge
Asturias. To the west of it is the was rescued from still carries the
small fishing port of Foz, which St Paul’s Cathedral main road to the
has two good beaches. Nearby, in London. large industrial
the medieval Iglesia de San The Museo Ornate tomb in the Iglesia de San town of Ferrol,
Martín de Mondoñedo, standing Diocesano, Francisco in Betanzos to the north.
alone on a hill, contains carv ings entered through Originally a
of biblical scenes on its transept the cathedral, contains works medieval port, Ferrol became
capitals – note the story of by Zurbarán and El Greco. an important naval base and
Lazarus. Viveiro, a summer dockyard town in the 18th
holiday resort 37 km (23 miles) E Museo Diocesano century, and its Neo-Classical
away, is a handsome old town Praza da Catedral. Tel 982 52 17 79. buildings survive from that
surrounded by Re naissance walls Open 10:30am–1pm & 4:30–6:30pm time. General Franco (see pp70–
and gateways, typically Galician Tue–Sat, 4:30–8pm Sun. & 71) was born in Ferrol in 1892.
glassed-in balconies or galerías,
and a Romanesque church.
Near the pretty fishing village
of O Barqueiro is the headland
of Estaca de Bares, with its
lighthouse and wind turbines.
Westward along the coast,
the lovely Ría de Ortigueira leads
to the fishing port of the same
name, characterized by neat
white houses. Around this area
there are also many wild and
unspoiled beaches.
High cliffs rise out of the sea
near the village of San Andrés de
Teixido, whose church is
the focal point for pilgrims on Pavement cafés in Betanzos’ Plaza de García Hermanos
For hotels and restaurants in this region see p562 and pp582–3


092-093_EW_Spain.indd 92 26/09/17 11:00 am
Eyewitness Travel LAYERS PRINTED:
Catalogue template “UK” LAYER
(Source v2.1)
Date 5th December 2012
Size 125mm x 217mm

GALICIA  93


























Stone cross standing above the perilous waters of the Costa da Morte
4 A Coruña situated beneath the tympanum, 5 Costa da Morte
and the Iglesia de Santa
A Coruña. * 244,000. ~ £ @ A Coruña. @ A Coruña, Malpica.
n Praza de María Pita, 981 92 30 93. María. This church, feat uring n Praza de María Pita, A Coruña,
_ Fiestas de María Pita (Aug). a tympanum carved with the 981 92 30 93. _ Fiesta de la
∑ turismocoruna.com Adoration of the Magi, is one of Virgen del Carmen (16 Jul).
the best-preserved 12th-century ∑ turismo.gal/costa-da-morte
This proud city and busy port buildings in Galicia.
has played a sizable role in The quiet Jardín de San Carlos From Malpica to Fisterra the coast
Spanish maritime history. contains the tomb of the Scottish is wild and remote. It is called
Felipe II’s doomed Armada general Sir John Moore, who the “Coast of Death” because of
sailed from here to England was killed in 1809 as the British the many ships lost in storms or
in 1588 (see p63). Today, the army evacuated the port during smashed on the rocks by gales
sprawling industrial suburbs Spain’s War of Independence over the centuries. The headlands
contrast with the elegant town from France (see p67). are majestic. There are no coastal
centre, which is laid out on an towns, only sim ple villages, where
isthmus leading to a headland. fishermen gather gastronomic
The Torre de Hércules, Europe’s percebes (barnacles), destined
oldest working lighthouse, is a for the region’s restaurants.
famous local landmark. Built by One of the most northerly
the Romans and rebuilt in the points of the Costa da Morte,
18th century, it still flashes Malpica, has a picturesque
across the deep. Climb its 242 fishing port. Laxe has good
steps for a wide ocean view. beaches and safe bathing.
On the large, arcaded Praza Camariñas, one of the most
de María Pita, the city’s main appealing places on this coast,
square, is the handsome town is a fishing village where women
hall. The sea promenade of make bobbin-lace in the streets.
La Marina is lined with tiers Beside the lighthouse on nearby
of glass-enclosed balconies Cabo Vilán, a group of futuristic
or galerías. Built as protection wind turbines, tall and slender,
against the strong winds, they swirl in graceful unison – a
explain why A Coruña is often haunting sight.
referred to as the City of Glass. To the south is Corcubión,
The peaceful, tiny Plazuela exuding a faded elegance, and
da las Bárbaras is enchanting. lastly, Cabo Fisterra “where the
A Coruña has several fine land ends”. This cape, with its
Romanesque churches, such as lighthouse, is a good place to
the Iglesia de Santiago, with a The lofty Torre de Hércules lighthouse watch the sun go down over
carving of its saint on horse back at A Coruña the Atlantic.




092-093_EW_Spain.indd 93 26/09/17 11:00 am

94  NOR THERN SP AIN

6 Street-by-Street: Santiago de Compostela

In the Middle Ages Santiago de Compostela was
Christendom’s third most important place of
pilgrimage (see pp86–7), after Jerusalem and Rome.
Around the Praza do Obradoiro is an ensemble of
historic buildings that has few equals in Europe. The
local granite gives a harmonious unity to the mixture 0 metres 100
of architectural styles. With its narrow streets and old 100
squares, the city centre is compact enough to explore 0 yards RÚA
on foot. Two other monu ments worth seeing are the
Convento de San Domingos de Bonaval, to the east DE XERUSALÉN
of the centre and the Colegiata Santa Maria la Real
del Sar, a 12th-century Romanesque church, located
to the east of the city. R Ú A D A T R O I A RÚA DE ACEVECHERIA

. Monasterio de
San Martiño
Pinario
The Baroque V Í A S A C R A
church of this
monastery has
a huge double
altar and an
ornate Plater esque
façade with carved
figures of saints R U E L A D O V A L D E D E U S
and bishops. P R A Z A D A I N M A C U L A D A


R Ú A D E S A N
Pazo de Xelmírez F R A N C I S C O







PR A Z A DO
OBR ADOIRO
. Hostal de los
Reyes Católicos
Built by the Catholic
Monarchs as an inn and
hospital for sick pilgrims,
and now a parador, this
magnificent building
has an elaborate
Plateresque doorway.


The Pazo de
Praza do Obradoiro Raxoi, with
This majestic square is its Classical
one of the world’s finest façade, was
and the focal point for built in 1772
pilgrims arriving in the and houses
city. The cathedral’s the town hall.
Baroque façade
dominates the square.
For hotels and restaurants in this region see p562 and pp582–3


094-095_EW_Spain.indd 94 26/09/17 11:00 am

SANTIA GO DE C OMPOSTELA  95

San Paio de Antealtares
This is one of the oldest VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
monasteries in Santiago.
It was founded in the Practical Information
9th century to house A Coruña. * 96,000.
n Calle Rúa do Vilar 63,
the tomb of St James,
now in the cathedral. 981 55 51 29. ( Wed (cattle),
Thu. _ Semana Santa (Easter
Week), Santiago Day (25 Jul).
∑ santiagoturismo.com
Transport
~ 10 km (6 miles) north.
£ Calle Hórreo s/n, 902 32 03
20. @ Praza de Camilo Díaz
Praza da Quintana, under Baliño s/n, 981 54 24 16.
DE XERUSALÉN
RÚA DE ACEVECHERIA one of the city’s most
the cathedral clock tower, is
elegant squares.
R Ú A D A T R O I A



V Í A S A C R A


P R A Z A D A I N M A C U L A D A R Ú A D E G E L M I R E Z R Ú A N O V A The Silversmiths’ Doorway of the

Praza das Praterias
cathedral opens onto this
charming square with a stone
fountain in the centre.



Rúa Nova is a
handsome arcaded
old street leading
from the cathedral
R Ú A D O V I L A R
PR A Z A DO R Ú A D A R A I Ñ A to the newer part
OBR ADOIRO To Tourist of the city.
Information


R Ú A D O F R A N C O




Colegio de
San Jerónimo

. Cathedral
Key This grand towering spectacle has welcomed pilgrims to
Suggested route Santiago for centuries. Though the exterior has been remodelled
over the years, the core of the building has remained virtually
Pilgrims’ route
unchanged since the 11th century.



094-095_EW_Spain.indd 95 26/09/17 11:00 am

96  NOR THERN SP AIN

Santiago Cathedral

With its twin Baroque towers soaring high over the
Praza do Obradoiro, this monument to St James is a
majestic sight, as befits one of the great shrines of
Christendom (see pp86–7). The present building dates
from the 11th–13th centuries and stands on the site “Passport” – proof of a
of the 9th-century basilica built by Alfonso II. Through pilgrim’s journey
the famous Pórtico da Gloria is the same interior that
met pilgrims in medieval times. The choir, designed
by Maestro Mateo, has been completely restored.
















. West Façade
The richly sculpted Baroque
Obradoiro façade was added
in the 18th century.













. Pórtico da Gloria
The sculpted Doorway of Glory,
with its statues of apostles and
prophets, is 12th century.
KEY
1 Cathedral Museum items, 3 Pazo de Xelmírez 7 Mondragón Chapel
including a version of Goya’s The 4 Statue of St James (1521) contains fine wrought-
Swing, are on display, as well as the iron grilles and vaulting.
cathedral’s cloister, chapterhouse, 5 The twin towers are the 8 Clock Tower
library, reliquary chapel and crypt. cathedral’s highest structures at
74 m (243 ft). 9 Cloisters
2 The Santo dos Croques 6 The botafumeiro, a giant 0 Chapterhouse
(Saint of Bumps) has greeted pil grims censer, is swung high above
since the 12th cent ury. Touching this the altar by eight men during
statue with the forehead is said to important services.
impart luck and wisdom.

For hotels and restaurants in this region see p562 and pp582–3


096-097_EW_Spain.indd 96 26/09/17 11:00 am

SANTIA GO DE C OMPOSTELA  97


VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
Practical Information
Praza do Obradoiro.
Tel 981 58 35 48.
Open 7am–8:30pm daily.
5 7:30am, 8:30am, 9am, 10am,
11am, noon, 1pm, 6pm, 7:30pm.
8 rooftops and Pazo de
Xelmírez (tickets and bookings in
museum, 981 56 93 27/96 75 13).
7 Museum: Open 9am–8pm
daily (Nov–Mar: from 10am).
Closed 1 & 6 Jan, 25 Jul, 25 Dec.
& ∑ catedraldesantiago.es


High Altar
Visitors can pass
behind the
ornate high altar
to embrace the
silver mantle of
the 13th-century
statue of
St James.























. Porta das Praterias
The 12th-century Silver-
smiths’ Doorway is rich
in bas-relief sculptures
of biblical scenes.




Crypt
The relics of St James
and two disciples
are said to lie in a tomb
in the crypt, under the
altar, in the original
9th-century foundations.




096-097_EW_Spain.indd 97 26/09/17 11:00 am

98  NOR THERN SP AIN

7 Padrón
A Coruña. * 8,500. £ @ n
Avenida Compostela, 646 59 33 19.
( Sun. _ Santiago (24–25 Jul).
This quiet town on the Río Ulla,
known for its piquant green
peppers, was a major seaport
until it silted up. Leg end has it
the boat carrying the body of
St James to Galicia (see p86)
arrived here. The supposed
mooring stone, or padrón, lies
below the altar of the church The picturesque gardens and lake of Pazo de Oca Serra de
by the bridge. Carnota Outes
The leafy avenue beside the 8 A Toxa 9 Pontevedra Punta dos
Remedios
church features in the poems of Near O Grove, Pontevedra. @ n Praza Pontevedra. * 82,500. £ @ Lira Esteiro AC550
one of Galicia’s greatest writers, do Corgo, O Grove, 986 73 14 15. ( Fri. n Casa da Luz, Praza da Verdura s/n, Muros Noia
Rosalia de Castro (1837–85). 986 09 08 90. ( 1st, 8th, 15th & 23rd Boa
Her home, where she spent A tiny pine-covered island of each month. _ Fiestas de la Punta Ría de Muros e Noia Tállara
Louro
her final years, has been joined to the mainland by a Peregrina (2nd week in Aug). Porto do
converted into a museum. bridge, A Toxa (La Toja) is one ∑ visit-pontevedra.com Son
of the most stylish resorts in Ponte
Environs Galicia. The belle époque palace- Pontevedra lies inland, at the Beluso
The estuary town of Noia (Noya) hotel (see p562) and luxury head of a long ría backed by Mirador da
lies on the coast 20 km (12 villas add to the island’s elegant green hills. The delightful old Xuño Curota Boiro Rianxo
J
miles) west. Its Gothic church atmosphere. A Toxa’s best- town is typically Galician and has AC550 AG11
has a finely carved portal. East known landmark is the small a network of cobbled alleys and Bamio
of Padron is Pazo de Oca, a church covered with scallop tiny squares with granite calvaries, A Pobra Ría de Arousa Vilagarcía
de Arousa
manor house, with a crenellated shells. Across the bridge is flower-filled balconies and excel- Corrubedo Caramiñal
tower, idyllic gardens and a lake. O Grove (El Grove), a thriving lent tapas bars. On the south Arousa Vilanova de AP9
family resort and fish ing port side of the Old Town are the Ribeira Ill de Arousa
E Museo Rosalia de Castro on a peninsula, with holiday Gothic Ruinas de San Domingos, Punta de Arousa Umia
A Matanza. Tel 981 81 12 04. hotels and flats along side now part of the Museo de Couzo Cambados O Mosteiro
Open Tue–Sun. & 7 glorious beaches. Pontevedra, with Roman steles O Grove
Illa de
and Galician coats of arms and Sálvora PO550
tombs. To the west, the 16th- San Vicente AG41
century Iglesia de Santa María la do Grove Vilalonga Poio
Mayor contains a magnificent A Lanzada Pontevedra
Plateresque (see p29) façade. Combarro
On the Praza de la Leña, Sanxenxo
two 18th-century mansions, Marín
along with two other build ings Illa de Ría de Pontevedra
Ons
in the adjacent streets, form the Mirador da
Museo de Pontevedra, one of Cabo de J Cotorredondo
the best museums in Galicia. Udra Bueu AP9
The Bronze Age treasures are
superb. Among the paintings Hio Moaña
are 15th-century Spanish Cabo de
primitives, canvases by Zurbarán Home Cangas Teis Mirador da
and Goya, and on the top floor a Ría d e Vi go Vigo J Madroa
collection by Alfonso Castelao, Illas
a Galician artist and Nationalist Cies Coia AP9
who forcefully depicted the
misery endured by his people
during the Spanish Civil War. Panxón AG57
Nigrán
E Museo de Pontevedra Baiona
Calle Pasanteria 2–12. Tel 986 80 41 Cabo
00. Open 10am–9pm Tue–Sat, Silleiro
11am–2pm Sun. Ruinas de San
Domingos summer: 10am–2pm
Tue–Sat; call the museum for winter
Scallop-covered roof of the church on A Toxa island hours. ∑ museo.depo.es
For hotels and restaurants in this region see p562 and pp582–3
098-099_EW_Spain.indd 98 26/09/17 11:53 am