(DK Eyewitness) Travel Guide - Spain

INTRODUCING CENTR AL SP AIN  349


The Alcázar, Segovia
Terms used in
The plan of the royal castle of Segovia
(see p368) is determined by the con tours this Guide
of the rocky outcrop on which it Alcázar: Castle or palace used
stands. Although first records date as a royal residence.
from the 12th cen tury, it was Bartizan: A small turret which
mostly built between 1410 and projects from the battlements
1455 and had to be largely of a tower above attackers.
rebuilt following a fire in Cross and orb
1862. The fortress’s walls loophole: Narrow
conceal several slit, shaped to allow
sumptuous archers to shoot at
apartments. various angles.
Curtain wall: Outer, window­
less wall, often low enough for
Torre del
Homenaje has archers to fire over it from the
pointed turrets, keep and other towers.
atypical of Machicolation:
Spanish castles. A projection
overhanging the
Curtain wall wall beneath a
battlement to allow
boiling oil, missiles
The King’s Room, the most or human waste to be dropped
important room in the castle, on to the enemy.
is Gothic in style.
Torre del Homenaje: The
fortified tower or keep at the
The Pine Cone Room gets
its name from the golden heart of a castle, often built to
pine cones on the ceiling. a square plan, in which the
nobleman’s family lived.
The Galley Room
The Throne Room
has ornate
plasterwork and a
Mudéjar ceiling.
Peñafiel Castle (see p371)
has been compared to a
battleship because of its long,
narrow shape. The site above
the Duero Valley has been
defended since the 10th
century, but the present
castle is 15th century.
The Castles of N610 Palencia A1 N234
Castilla y León N630 NV1 A6 N601 A62 Peñaranda
de Duero
Some of Central Spain’s Torrelobatón + Valladolid Aranda de Duero + Calatañazor + N122
finest surviving castles A11 N122 + Peñafiel +
can be visited today. Zamora Tordesillas + Simancas Gormaz +
A few, such as Ciudad A601 +Cuéllar A1 Berlanga
Rodrigo (see p361), A62 + + Coca Pedraza de Duero
have been turned into A66 Buen La Mota N601 +
Amor
luxurious paradors. + NV1 A6 Turégano +
Salamanca Arévalo + Segovia + N110 A1
A50
N403
A62 A66 AP51 AP61 0 kilometres 100
AP6
+ Ciudad Rodrigo Ávila 0 miles 50




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CASTILLA Y LEÓN



León • Zamora • Salamanca • Ávila • Segovia
Valladolid • Palencia • Burgos • Soria
A wesome expanses of ochre plains stretch to hills
crowned with the castles that cover this vast region.
Through Spain’s history, these central provinces have
had a major influence on its language, religion and
culture. Their many historic cities preserve some of the
country’s most magnificent architectural sights.

The territories of the two rival medieval León. Burgos has an exuberantly dec-
kingdoms of Castile and León, occu- orated Gothic cathedral. León Cathedral
pying the northern half of the great is famous for its wonderful stained glass.
plateau in the cen tre of Spain, now At the heart of the mon umental city of
form the country’s largest region, or Salamanca is the oldest university in the
comunidad autónoma. peninsula. Segovia’s aqueduct is the
Castile and León were first brought largest Roman structure in Spain and
together under one crown in 1037 by its Alcázar is the country’s most photo-
Fernando I, but the union was not con- graphed castle. Ávila is sur rounded by an
solidated until the early 13th cen tury. unbroken wall, built by Christian forces
The kingdom of Castile and León was against the Moors. In Valladolid, the
one of the driving forces of the regional capital, a superb collection of
Reconquest. El Cid, the legendary hero, multicoloured sculpture is displayed in
was born near Burgos. a magnifi cent 15th-century building.
Wealth pouring in from the wool trade Beyond the cities, in Castilla y León’s
and the New World, reaching a peak in varied countryside, there are many
the 16th century, financed the many great attractive small towns which preserve
artistic and architec tural treasures that outstanding examples of the region’s
can be seen today in the cities of Castilla y vernacular architecture.























Cereal fields and vineyards covering the fertile Tierra de Campos in Palencia province
View of the Old Town of Segovia, dominated by the tower of the Gothic cathedral



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Exploring Castilla y León

Covering the northern part of Central Spain’s vast tableland,
Castilla y León has a huge variety of sights. Many are well
known, like the great cathedrals of Burgos and León, the
Alcázar and aqueduct of Segovia, the medieval walls of Ávila
and the monastery at Santo Domingo de Silos. Other historic
towns and villages worthy of a detour include Ciudad Rodrigo,
Covarrubias, Pedraza de la Sierra and Zamora. This region also
has beautiful mountainous countryside in the Sierra de Francia,
Sierra de Bejar and Sierra de Gredos.
Valnera
1718m
Puerto de Somiedo Santander
1486m Puerto de Pajares Peña Prieta Bercedo
Oviedo 1379m
Puerto de Leitariegos Riaño 2536m Medina
Sights at a Glance 1525m CUEVAS DE de Pomar
1 El Bierzo VALPORQUERO Cervera de
Ancares
Pisuerga
2 Villafranca del Bierzo Lugo Sierra de Vegarienza La Robla Boñar Cistierna AGUILAR Ebro Frias Vitoria
3 Ponferrada Toreno Guardo DE CAMPOO Oña (Gasteiz)
4 Puebla de Sanabria VILLAFRANCA EL BIERZO Almansa Miranda
5 Astorga DEL BIERZO Órbigo LEÓN Herrera de de Ebro
Corullón
Pisuerga
6 Cueva de Valporquero PONFERRADA Mansilla de Saldaña Villadiego BRIVIESCA
7 León pp357–9 Montes de León las Mulas Osorno Belorado
ASTORGA
8 Zamora Las Médulas Valencia de Sahagún
9 Ciudad Rodrigo El Teleno Don Juan Esla Carrión de los Condes BURGOS
Sierra de la Demanda
q Salamanca pp362–5 2183m La Bañeza FRÓMISTA San Pedro de Cardeña
w Sierra de Gredos San Martín Mayorga Villada Astudillo
e Ávila de Castañeda PUEBLA DE Eria Valderas Quintanilla de las Viñas Yanguas
SANABRIA
r La Granja de San Ildefonso PALENCIA Pisuerga Arlanza COVARRUBIAS Sierra de Urbión (Pamplona)
Iruña
t Segovia Vigo Benavente LERMA MONASTERIO DE Almarza
SANTO DOMINGO
y Pedraza de la Sierra Tera MEDINA DE Baños DE SILOS Vinuesa Ágreda
u Sepúlveda RIOSECO Dueñas de Cerrato Torresandino Numantia Moncayo
Embalse
i Castillo de Coca de Ricobayo CASTILLA Y LEÓN Abejar SORIA 2316m
o Medina del Campo Villardefrades Wamba Aranda de PEÑARANDA Calatañazor Almenar de Soria
Duero
p Tordesillas Alcañices Fonfría VALLADOLID DE DUERO
a Valladolid San Pedro de la Nave TORDESILLAS Duero Peñafiel Riaza EL BURGO DE OSMA
s Medina de Rioseco ZAMORA Toro Simancas Duratón Maderuelo Berlanga Almazán Deza
d Palencia Duero Castronuño Cuéllar Ayllón de Duero Morón de Almazán
f Frómista Corrales Boceguillas Ruinas de
g Aguilar de Campoo Fermoselle MEDINA DEL CAMPO CASTILLO Cega SEPÚLVEDA Tiermes Villasayas Zaragoza
DE COCA
h Briviesca Trabanca Embalse de Navalmanzano Santa María
Almendra
j Covarrubias Duero Buen Amor Cañizal MEDINACELI de Huerta
k Burgos pp374–7 Ledesma Madrigal de las Arévalo Turégano PEDRAZA DE LA SIERRA Madrid
l Lerma Vitigudino Tormes Altas Torres
z Monasterio de Santo Domingo SALAMANCA Peñaranda de
de Silos Huebra Bracamonte SEGOVIA
Riofrío
x Peñaranda de Duero Águeda La Fuente de Alba de Tormes LA GRANJA DE
San Esteban
c El Burgo de Osma Vecinos Villacastín SAN ILDEFONSO
v Soria Guarda CIUDAD Tamames Madrid
b Medinaceli RODRIGO Tormes Alaraz ÁVILA
de Pinares
Tours SIERRA DE Navalperal
El Bodón Peña de Francia FRANCIA Piedrahíta
0 Sierra de Francia and 1732m El Tiemblo
Sierra de Bejar La Alberguería Sotoserrano S i s t e m a C e n t r a l
SIERRA DE GREDOS
de Argañán Béjar Toledo
Cáceres Pico Almanzor
2592m Sotillo
San Pedro
Candeleda Arenas de
0 kilometres 50
0 miles 30
For keys to symbols see back flap
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Getting Around
Madrid makes a convenient spring­
board for touring in Castilla y León.
The major cities of the region are
connected by rail, but the coach
is often a quicker alter native.
If you intend on exploring
rural areas or small towns, it is
advisable to hire a car.

Sunflowers growing in Burgos province
Valnera
1718m
Puerto de Somiedo Santander Key
1486m Puerto de Pajares Peña Prieta Bercedo
Oviedo 1379m
Puerto de Leitariegos Riaño 2536m Medina Motorway
1525m CUEVAS DE Cervera de de Pomar Motorway under construction
Sierra de Vegarienza La Robla VALPORQUERO Pisuerga Major road
Vitoria
Lugo Ancares Boñar Cistierna AGUILAR Ebro Frias (Gasteiz)
Toreno Guardo DE CAMPOO Oña Secondary road
VILLAFRANCA EL BIERZO Scenic route
DEL BIERZO Almansa Herrera de Miranda
Corullón Órbigo LEÓN Pisuerga Villadiego BRIVIESCA de Ebro Main railway
PONFERRADA Montes de León Mansilla de Saldaña Minor railway
las Mulas
Las Médulas ASTORGA Valencia de Sahagún Osorno Belorado International border
Don Juan Esla BURGOS Regional border
El Teleno Carrión de los Condes
2183m San Pedro de Cardeña Summit
La Bañeza FRÓMISTA
Villada Astudillo Sierra de la Demanda
Mayorga
San Martín Eria
de Castañeda PUEBLA DE Quintanilla de las Viñas Yanguas
SANABRIA Valderas
Iruña
PALENCIA Pisuerga Arlanza COVARRUBIAS Sierra de Urbión (Pamplona)
Vigo LERMA MONASTERIO DE Almarza
SANTO DOMINGO
Tera Benavente
MEDINA DE Dueñas Baños DE SILOS Vinuesa Ágreda
RIOSECO de Cerrato Torresandino Numantia Moncayo
Embalse Abejar 2316m
de Ricobayo CASTILLA Y LEÓN Aranda de PEÑARANDA SORIA Almenar de Soria
Alcañices Fonfría Villardefrades Wamba VALLADOLID Duero DE DUERO Calatañazor
San Pedro de la Nave TORDESILLAS Duero Peñafiel Riaza EL BURGO DE OSMA
ZAMORA Toro Simancas Duratón Maderuelo Berlanga Almazán Deza
de Duero
Duero
Castronuño Cuéllar Ayllón Morón de Almazán
Fermoselle Corrales CASTILLO Cega SEPÚLVEDA Boceguillas Ruinas de Villasayas Zaragoza
Tiermes
Embalse de MEDINA DEL CAMPO DE COCA
Trabanca Almendra Navalmanzano Santa María
Duero Buen Amor Cañizal Turégano PEDRAZA DE LA SIERRA MEDINACELI de Huerta
Ledesma Madrigal de las Arévalo Madrid
Vitigudino Tormes Altas Torres
SALAMANCA Peñaranda de
Bracamonte SEGOVIA
Riofrío
Huebra
La Fuente de
San Esteban Alba de Tormes LA GRANJA DE
Águeda
Vecinos SAN ILDEFONSO
CIUDAD Villacastín
Tormes Alaraz ÁVILA Navalperal
Guarda RODRIGO Tamames Madrid
El Bodón Peña de Francia FRANCIA Piedrahíta de Pinares
1732m
SIERRA DE
La Alberguería Sotoserrano S i s t e m a C e n t r a l El Tiemblo
SIERRA DE GREDOS
de Argañán Béjar Toledo
Cáceres Pico Almanzor
2592m Sotillo
San Pedro
Candeleda Arenas de
Peñaranda de Duero castle
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1 El Bierzo To the north of the A6 high way
lies the Sierra de Ancares, a
León. £ Ponferrada. @ Ponferrada.
n C/ Gil y Carrasco, Ponferrada, 987 wild region of rounded, slate
42 42 36. ∑ turismodelbierzo.es mountains marking the borders
of Galicia and Asturias. Part of it
This northwestern region of now forms the Reserva Nacional
León province was at one time de los Ancares Leoneses, an
the bed of an ancient lake. attractive nature reserve. The
Sheltered by hills from the heathland is home to deer, wolves,
worst extremes of Central brown bears and capercaillies.
Spain’s climate, its sun-soaked, Several villages high in the
alluvial soils make for fertile hills contain pallozas – primitive,
orchards and vineyards. Over pre-Roman stone dwellings.
the centuries, the area has also One of the most striking col-
yielded rich mineral pickings lections can be found in isolated
including coal, iron and gold. Campo del Agua, in the west.
Many hiking routes and pic nic A palloza in the Sierra de Ancares
spots are within reach of the E Herrería de Compludo
main towns of Ponferrada and operation. Using slave labour, Compludo. Tel 661 250 756.
Villafranca del Bierzo. millions of tonnes of alluvium Open Wed–Sun & public hols. &
In the eastern section, you were washed from the hills of } Las Médulas
can trace the course of the old Las Médulas by a complex Tel 987 42 07 08. Open 11am–2pm,
Road to Santiago (see pp86–7) system of canals and sluice 4–8pm daily (Oct–Mar: to 6pm).
through the Montes de León, gates. The ore was then panned, Closed public hols. & 8
past the pilgrim church and and the gold dust col lected ∑ fundacionlasmedulas.org
medieval bridge of Molinaseca. on sheep’s wool. It is estimated
Turning off the road at the that more than 500 tonnes of 2 Villafranca del
re mote village of El Acebo, precious metal were extracted
you pass through a deep valley between the 1st and 4th Bierzo
where there are signs pointing centu ries AD. These ancient León. * 3,500. @ n Avenida Díez
to the Herrería de Compludo, work ings lie within a memo- Ovelar 10, 987 54 00 28. ( Tue.
a water-powered 7th-century rable landscape of wind-eroded _ Santo Tirso (28 Jan), Spring Fiesta
ironworks. The equipment still crags, and hills pierced by (1 May), Fiesta del Cristo (14 Sep).
works and is demonstrated tun nels and colonized by ∑ villafrancadelbierzo.org
regularly, although the site is gnarled chestnut trees. You can
currently closed for restoration. best appreciate the area from Emblazoned mansions line the
The Lago de Carucedo, to the a viewpoint at Orellán, which is ancient streets of this delightful
southwest of Ponferrada, is an reached via a rough, steep track. town. The solid, early 16th-
ancient artificial lake. It acted Las Médulas, a village south century, drum-towered castle
as a reservoir in Roman times, a of Carucedo, is another place is still inhabited. Near the Plaza
by-product of a vast gold-mining to go for a fine view. Mayor a number of imposing























Craggy, tree-clad hills around the ancient gold workings near the village of Las Médulas
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp569–70 and pp594–5


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Eyewitness Travel LAYERS PRINTED:
Catalogue template “UK” LAYER
(Source v2.2)
Date 15th January 2013
Size 125mm x 217mm

C ASTILLA Y LEÓN  355


churches and convents compete
for attention. Particularly worth
seeing are the fine sculptures
adorning the north portal of the
simple, Romanesque Iglesia de
Santiago (open Jul–mid­Sep).
At the church’s Puerta del Perdón
(Door of Mercy), pilgrims who
were too weak to make the final
gruelling hike across the hills of
Galicia could obtain dispensation. The imposing Templar castle of Ponferrada
Also sample the local speciality,
cherries in aguardiente, a spirit. both iron and coal de posits, 10th­century Mozarabic church
Ponferrada has expand ed into has horseshoe arches above its
Environs a sizable town. double portal.
One of the finest views over El Most of its attractions are
Bierzo is from Corullón, to the confined to the small old quar­ 4 Puebla de
south. This village with grey stone ter. Ponferrada’s majestic castle
houses is set in a sunny location was constructed between the Sanabria
above the broad, fertile basin of 12th and 14th centuries by Zamora. * 1,500. £ @ n Muralla
the Río Burbia where the vines the Knights Templar to protect Mariquillo, 980 62 07 34. ( Fri.
of the Bierzo wine region flourish pilgrims. During the Middle _ Candelas (Feb), Las Victorias
(see pp82–3). Two churches, the Ages it was one of the largest (8–9 Sep). ∑ pueblasanabria.com
late 11th­century San Miguel fortresses in northwest Spain.
and the Romanesque San Standing on the main This attractive old village lies
Est eban, are worth a visit. Down square is the Baroque town hall beyond the undulating broom
in the valley, the Benedictine (ayuntamiento). One entrance to and oak scrub of the Sierra de
monastery at Carracedo del the square, one of the gateways la Culebra. A steep cobbled
Monasterio stands in splend our. of the medieval wall, is straddled street leads past stone and
Founded in 990, it was once by a tall clock tower. Nearby is slate houses with huge,
the most powerful religious the Renaissance Basílica de la overhanging eaves and walls
community in El Bierzo. Virgen de la Encina. The older bearing coats of arms, to a
Iglesia de Santo Tomás de las hilltop church and castle.
Ollas is hidden away in the The village has become the
town’s village­like northern centre of a popular inland hol­
suburbs. Mozarabic, Roman­ iday resort based around the
esque and Baroque elements largest glacial lake in Spain,
combine in the architecture of the Lago de Sanabria, now a
this simple church. The 10th­ nature park. Among the many
century apse has beautiful activities available are fishing,
horseshoe arches. Ask at the walking and water sports.
nearest house for the key. The Most routes beckon visitors to
neighbour will open it for you. Ribadelago, but the road to the
quaint hill village of San Martín
Environs de Castañeda gives better views.
A drive through the idyllic Valle There’s a small visitors’ centre
de Silencio (Valley of Silence), for the nature reserve in San
south of Ponferrada, follows a Martín’s restored monastery.
Puerta del Perdón of Villafranca’s Iglesia poplar­lined stream past several The village is very traditional –
de Santiago bucolic villages. The last and you may see cattle yoked to
most beautiful of these is carts, and women dressed
Peñalba de Santiago. Its completely in black.
3 Ponferrada
León. * 68,700. £ @ n Calle Gil
y Carrasco 4, 987 42 42 36. ( Wed &
Sat. _ Virgen de la Encina (8 Sep).
∑ ponferrada.org/turismo/en
A medieval bridge reinforced
with iron (pons ferrata), erected
for the benefit of pil grims
on their way to Santiago de
Compostela, gave this town its
name. Today, prosperous from The 12th-century church and 15th-century castle of Puebla de Sanabria




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Gaspar Becerra is a masterpiece 6 Cueva de
of the Spanish Renaissance. Valporquero
Among the many fine exhibits
in the cathedral’s museum are León. Tel 987 57 64 08. Open mid-
the 10th-century carved casket of Oct–Dec & Mar–mid-May: 10am–5pm
Alfonso III the Great, the jewelled Thu–Sun, public hols; mid-May–mid-
Oct: 10am–6pm daily. &
Reliquary of the True Cross and a ∑ cuevadevalporquero.es
lavish silver mon strance studded
with enormous emeralds. This complex of limestone
Opposite the cathedral is a caves – technically a single cave
fairy-tale building of multiple with three separate en trances
turrets and quasi-Gothic win- – is directly beneath the village
dows. The unconventional of Valporquero de Torío. The
Palacio Episcopal (Bishop’s caves were formed in the
Palace) was designed at the end Miocene period between 5
of the 19th century by Antoni and 25 million years ago.
The nave of Astorga Cathedral Gaudí, the highly original Severe weather conditions
Modernista architect (see in the surrounding moun-
5 Astorga p168), for the incum bent tains make the caverns
bishop, a fellow Catalan, inaccessible between
León. * 11,900. £ @ n Plaza
Eduardo de Castro 5. Tel 987 61 after a fire in 1887 had December and Easter.
82 22. ( Tue. _ Roman Festival destroyed the previous Less than half of the
(end Jun), Santa Marta (late Aug). building. Its bizarre huge system, which
∑ aytoastorga.es appearance as well stretches 3,100 m
as its phenomenal (10,200 ft) under
The Roman town of Asturica cost so horrified the the ground, is
Augusta was a strategic halt on diocese that no sub- open to the public.
the Vía de la Plata (Silver Road), sequent bishops ever lived in Guided tours take parties
a Roman road linking Andalucía it. Today it houses an assembly through an impressive series
and northwest Spain. Later it of medieval religious art of galleries in which lighting
came to form a stage on the devoted to the history of picks out the beautiful
pilgrimage route to Santiago Astorga and the pilgrimage limestone con cretions.
(see pp86–7). to Santiago. Roman Iron and sulphur oxides
Soaring above the ramparts in relics, including coins Reliquary of the have tinted the rocks
the upper town are Astorga’s two unearthed in the Plaza True Cross many subtle shades
principal monuments, the cathe- Romana, are evi dence of of red, grey and
dral and the Palacio Episcopal. Astorga’s importance as a black. The vast Gran Rotonda,
The cathedral was built between Roman settlement. The palace’s covering an area of 5,600 sq m
the 15th and the 18th centuries interior is decorated with Gaudí’s (18,350 sq ft) and reaching a
and displays a variety of archi- ceramic tiles and stained glass. height of 20 m (65 ft), is the
tectural styles ranging from its most stunning.
Gothic apse to the effusive P Palacio Episcopal As the interior is cold, and
Baroque of its two towers, which Plaza Eduardo de Castro. Tel 987 61 the surface often slippery, it is
are carved with various biblical 68 82. Open Tue–Sun. Closed Mon, advisable to wear warm clothes
scenes. The gilt altar piece by Sun pm, public hols. & and sturdy shoes.


















Illuminated stalactites hanging from the roof of one of the chambers in the Cueva de Valporquero
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp569–70 and pp594–5


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C ASTILLA Y LEÓN  357

7 León
León. * 131,700. £ @ n Plaza
Regla 2, 987 23 70 82. ( Wed & Sat.
_ San Juan and San Pedro (21–29
Jun), San Froilán (5 Oct).
∑ turismoleon.org
Founded as a camp for the
Romans’ Seventh Legion,
León became the capital of a
kingdom in the Middle Ages.
As such it played a central
role in the early years of the
Reconquest (see pp58–9).
The city’s most important
building – apart from its great
cathedral (see pp358–9) – is the
Colegiata de San Isidoro, built
into the Roman walls which
encircle the city. A sep arate
entrance leads through to the
Romanesque Panteón Real
(Royal Pantheon), the last resting
place of more than 20 monarchs.
It is superbly decorated with
carved capi tals and 12th-century
frescoes illustrating a variety of
biblical and mythical subjects, as
well as scenes of medieval life. Frescoes in Colegiata de San Isidoro showing medieval seasonal tasks
The alleyways in the pictur-
esque old quarter around the Renais sance architecture (see p29). Carrizo. The MUSAC, Museo de
Plaza Mayor are dotted with Founded in the 12th century as Arte Contemporáneo de Castilla
bars and cafés, decrepit mansions a monastery lodging pilgrims y León, has a radical, interactive
and churches. Two well- going to Santiago, the present approach to exhibiting
preserved palaces stand near building was begun in 1513 as contemporary art.
to the Plaza de Santo Domingo: the headquarters of the Knights
the Palacio de los Guzmanes, of Santiago. The main hall has Environs
with its elegantly arcaded a fine 16th-century coffered Around 30 km (20 miles) east
Renaissance patio, and Antoni ceiling. A parador now occupies of León is the Iglesia de San
Gaudí’s unusually restrained the main part of the Hostal. Miguel de Escalada. Dating from
Casa de Botines. The Museo de León has many the 10th century, it is one of the
The Hostal de San Marcos is treasures, including a haunting finest surviving churches built
a fine example of Spanish little ivory crucifix, the Cristo de by the Mozarabs – Christians
influenced by the Moors. It has
The Maragatos Visigothic panels and stately
horseshoe arches resting on
Astorga is the principal town of carved capitals. At Sahagún,
the Maragatos, an ethnic group 70 km (40 miles) southeast of
of unknown origin, thought to León, are the Mudéjar churches
be descended from 8th-century of San Tirso and San Lorenzo,
Berber invaders. By marrying with triple apses and belfries.
only among themselves, A colossal ruined castle
they managed to preserve overlooks the Río Esla beside
their customs through the Valencia de Don Juan, 40 km
centuries and keep them- (25 miles) south of León.
selves apart from the rest of
society. The demise of their E Museo de León
traditional trade of mule-
driving, however, changed Plaza Santo Domingo 8. Tel 987 23
their way of life and the 64 05. Open Tue–Sun. Closed Mon,
Maragatos have adapted to Sun pm. & (free Sat & Sun).
contemporary life, although E MUSAC
their typical gastronomy and Maragatos dressed in Avenida de los Reyes Leoneses 24.
craftwork still survive. traditional costume Tel 987 09 00 00. Open Tue–Sun. 7
& 8 (free 6pm Sun). ∑ musac.es




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León Cathedral

The master builders of this Spanish Gothic
cathedral par excellence (see p28) were
inspired by French techniques of vaulting and
buttress ing. The present structure of golden
sandstone, built on the site of King Ordoño II’s
10th-century palace, was begun in the mid-
13th century and completed less than 100
years later. It combines a slender but very Cathedral Museum
high nave with the huge panels of stained Pedro de Campaña’s panel, The
glass which are its most magnificent feature. Adoration of the Magi, is one of
Although the cathedral has survived for 700 the many magnificent treasures
displayed in the museum.
years, today there is concern about air
pollution attacking the soft stone.














KEY
1 The West Rose Window is
largely 14th-century and depicts
the Virgin and Child, surrounded
by 12 trumpet-blowing angels.
2 The silver reliquary is an or nate
chest dating from the 16th century.
3 The 13th- to 14th-century
cloister galleries are decorated with
Gothic frescoes by Nicolás Francés.
4 The altarpiece includes five
original panels created by Gothic
master Nicolás Francés.
5 The choir has two tiers of
15th-century stalls. Behind it is the
carved and gilded retrochoir, in
the shape of a triumphal arch.


Entrance





. 13th-Century Carvings
Among the Gothic carvings on
the front of León’s cathedral,
above the Puerta de la Virgen
Blanca, is one depicting a scene
from the Last Judgment.
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp569–70 and pp594–5


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C ASTILLA Y LEÓN  359


Inside the Cathedral VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
The plan of the building
is a Latin cross. The tall Practical Information
nave is slender but long, Plaza de Regla.
measuring 90 m (295 ft) Tel 987 87 57 70.
by 40 m (130 ft) at its Open Oct–Apr: 9:30am–1:30pm
widest. To appreciate the & 4–7pm Mon–Sat, 9:30am–2pm
dazzling colours of the Sun; May–Sep: hours vary, check
stained glass it is best to website for details. 5 9am,
visit on a sunny day. noon, 1pm & 6pm daily, plus
11am & 2pm Sun. ^ 7
Museum: Open Mon–Sat, check
website for details. & ^
∑ catedraldeleon.org


The Virgen Blanca
is a Gothic sculp ture of a
smiling Virgin. The ori ginal is
kept in this chapel. A copy
stands by the west door.






















León’s Stained Glass
León Cathedral’s great glory is its
magnificent glasswork. The 125
large windows and 57 smaller,
round ones date from every
century from the 13th to the
20th. They cover an enormous
range of subjects. Some reveal
fas cinating details about med-
ieval life: La Cacería, in the north
wall, depicts a typical hunting
scene, while the rose window
in the Capilla del Nacimiento
shows pilgrims worshipping at
the tomb of St James in Santiago
de Compostela in Galicia
. Stained Glass (see pp96–7). Restoration work
The windows, covering can be viewed from an elevated
an area of 1,900 sq m platform on a guided tour.
(20,400 sq ft), are the
outstanding feature of A large window in León Cathedral
the cathedral.




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8 Zamora most important monument is its The allegorical carvings of nuns
unique cathedral, a 12th-century and monks on the misericords
Zamora. * 65,300. £ @ n Plaza
de Arias Gonzalo, 980 53 36 94. ( structure built in Romanesque and arm rests were once con-
Tue. _ Semana Santa (Easter Week), style but with a number of later sidered risqué. The museum,
San Pedro (23–29 Jun). ∑ zamora- Gothic addi tions. The building’s off the cloisters, has a collection
turismo.com most eye-catching feature is its of 15th- and 16th-century
strik ing, scaly, hemispherical Flemish tapestries. These
Little remains of Zamora’s past as dome. Inside, there are superb illustrate biblical passages and
an important strategic frontier iron grilles and Mudéjar pulpits classical and military scenes.
town. In Roman times, it was surround Juan de Bruselas’ Nearby, several churches
on the Vía de la Plata (see p356), 15th-century choir stalls. ex hibit features characteristic
and during the Reconquest was of Zamora’s architectural style,
fought over fiercely. The city has notably multi-lobed arches
now expanded far beyond its and heavily carved portals.
original boundaries, but the The best are the 12th-century
old quarter contains a wealth Iglesia de San Ildefonso and the
of Romanesque churches. Iglesia de la Magdalena.
The ruins of the city walls, built Another reason for visiting
by Alfonso III in 893, are pierced by Zamora is for its lively Easter
the Portillo de la Traición (Traitor’s Week celebrations, when elab-
Gate), through which the orate pasos (sculpted floats) are
murderer of Sancho II passed in paraded in the streets. Other wise
1072. The 16th-century parador they can be admired in the
(see p570) is in an old palace Museo de Semana Santa.
with a Renaissance courtyard
adorned with coats of arms. Environs
Two other palaces, the Palacio The 7th-century Visigothic church
de los Momos and the Palacio del of San Pedro de la Nave, 23 km
Cordón, have ornately carved Peaceful gardens of the Colegiata de (14 miles) north west of Zamora,
façades and windows. Zamora’s Santa María in Toro is Spain’s oldest church. Carvings
0 Sierra de Francia Ciudad Rodrigo
and Sierra de Béjar 1 La Peña de Francia
Atop the wind swept
These attractive schist hills buttress the peak is a 15th-century
Dominican monastery
western edges of the Sierra de Gredos sheltering a blackened
(see p366). Narrow roads wind their way statue of the Virgin and
through picturesque chestnut, olive and Child dating from 1890. J Agadón
almond groves, and quaint rural villages
of wood and stone. The highest point of 2 La Alberca
the range is La Peña de Francia, which, at This pretty and
1,732 m (5,700 ft), is easily recognizable much-visited
village sells local
from miles around. The views from the honey, hams and J
peak, and from the roads leading up to handi crafts. On Madronal
it, offer a breathtaking panorama of the 15 August each
surrounding empty plains and rolling hills. year it celebrates
the Assumption
with a traditional
mystery play per-
formed in costume.
Coria
3 Las Batuecas
The road from La Alberca
careers down into a
Key
green valley, past the
Tour route monastery where Luis
Other roads Buñuel made his film
Tierra sin Pan (Land
without Bread).
The unmistakable peak of La Peña de Francia
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp569–70 and pp594–5


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C ASTILLA Y LEÓN  361


rise to fortification, and its
robust 14th-century castle is
now an atmospheric parador.
The pros perous 15th and 16th
centuries were Ciudad Rodrigo’s
heyday. During the War of Inde-
pendence (see pp66–7), the city,
then occupied by the French,
was besieged for two years
before falling to the Duke
of Wellington’s forces.
The golden stone buildings
within the ramparts are delight-
ful. The main monument is
the cathedral (closed Mon pm),
Fish-scale tiling on dome of Zamora Cathedral whose belfry still bears the marks
of shellfire from the siege. The
adorn its capitals and friezes. Toro, 9 Ciudad Rodrigo exterior has a shapely curved
30 km (18 miles) east of Zamora, Salamanca. * 13,600. £ @ balus trade and accomp lished
is at the heart of a wine region n Plaza Mayor 27, 923 49 84 00. portal carvings. Inside, it is
(see pp344–5). The highlights of ( Tue, Sat. _ San Sebastián worth seeing the cloisters and
its Colegiata de Santa María are (20 Jan), Carnaval del Toro (before the choir stalls, carved with
the Gothic west portal and a fine Lent), Easter week, Charrada (mid-Jul). lively scenes by Rodrigo Alemán.
16th-century Hispano-Flemish In the adjacent 16th-century
painting, La Virgen de la Mosca. Despite its lonely setting – Capilla de Cerralbo (Cerralbo
In 1476, the forces of Isabel I stranded on the country’s Chapel; only open to tourists in
(see pp60–61) secured a victory western marches miles from the summer) is a 17th-century
over the Portuguese at Toro, anywhere – this lovely old altarpiece. Off the chapel’s
confirming her succes sion to town is well worth a detour. Its south side is the arcaded Plaza
the Castile throne. frontier location inevitably gave del Buen Alcalde.

4 Miranda del Castañar
The narrow streets of this pretty, fortified village
are lined with ancient houses with wide eaves.
0 kilometres 5
0 miles 5
Agadón
Salamanca

Santibáñez
J
de la Sierra
Cristóbal
Cepeda

Alagón 5 Béjar
Sotoserrano This textile town is strung out along
Madronal J
a ridge at the foot of the Sierra
Sangusin de Béjar. From the approach
road, 19th-century
La Calzada
Tips for Drivers de Béjar factories and mills
can be seen.
Tour length: 72 km (45 miles).
Stopping-off points: Candelario, J Salamanca
Miranda del Castañar and La 6 Candelario
Alberca all have good eating The steep, cobbled
places, and are renowned for streets are lined with
their hams and sausages. In deep channels and
summer, refreshments are stormgates to cope with
available from the hospedería the spring melt water from
(inn) in La Peña’s monastery. the surrounding mountains
and flash floods.
For keys to symbols see back flap

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362  CENTR AL SP AIN

q Street-by-Street: Salamanca

The great university city of Salamanca is Spain’s finest The Casa de las Conchas is
easily identifiable from the
showcase of Renaissance and Plateresque architecture. stone scallop shells that stud
Founded as an Iberian settlement in pre-Roman times, its walls. It is now a library.
the city fell to Hannibal in 217 BC. Pre-eminent among
its artists and master crafts men of later years were the The Palacio de
Churriguera brothers (see p29). Their work can be seen in Monterrey is a
Renaissance mansion.
many of Salamanca’s golden stone build ings, notably in Casa de las
the Plaza Mayor. Other major sights are the two Convento de Muertes O
cathedrals and the 13th-century university, one of las Ursulas A D
Europe’s oldest and most distinguished. Palacio de R P
Fonseca L
E
. Universidad C D
In the centre of the university’s A
elaborate façade is this medal­ L E L
L
lion, carved in relief, which E L
depicts the Catholic Monarchs. A C D E L C O R R I L L O
D
E

L
A
P L A Z A

C
O
M
M A Y O R
P A
Ñ
Í
A
. Catedral Vieja and R Ú A
Catedral Nueva
Despite being in different
architectural styles, the C A L L E D E S E R R A N O S
adjoining old and new
cathedrals blend well E R O S
together. This richly R
coloured altarpiece B
painted in 1445 is in S L I
the old cathedral.
E L O
D
E
L
L
A
C
Puente Romano
The Roman bridge across the Río Tormes, CALLE VERACRUZ
built in the 1st century AD, retains 15 of
its original 26 arches. It provides an
excellent view of the city.




0 metres 100 P A S E O D E L
0 yards 100 Casa Lis, Museo de Art R E C T O R E S P E R A B É
Decó y Art Nouveau

For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp569–70 and pp594–5


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SALA M ANC A  363


. Plaza Mayor VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
This 18th-century
square is one of Practical Information
Spain’s largest Salamanca. * 152,000.
and grandest. n Plaza Mayor 32, 923 21 83 42.
On the east side is ( Sun. _ San Juan de
the Royal Pavilion, Sahagún (10–12 Jun), Virgen
decorated with a de la Vega (8–15 Sep).
bust of Felipe V, who ∑ salamanca.es
built the square.
Transport
O ~ 15 km (9 miles) east.
D £ Paseo de la Estación,
A
R Key 902 32 03 20. @ Avenida de
P Filiberto Villalobos 71,
Suggested route
L 923 23 67 17.
E
D P L A Z A
M AY O R
E
L
L
A
C D E L C O R R I L L O
P L A Z A
M A Y O R O Torre del Clavero
This 15th-century tower still has its
R Ú A U E L original turrets. They are adorned with
the coats of arms of its founders, and
O N S Mudéjar trelliswork.
L C O
B
P A E L
D Iglesia-Convento
N E de San Esteban
A L The Plateresque
S L
A A façade of the
E C I
D V church is carved
with delicate relief.
E N
L A Above the door is a
L R frieze decorated
A G
C with medallions
and coats of arms.
D E T R E N TO
PLAZA DEL CONCILIO
A R R O Y O S A N T O D O M I N G O








Convento de las Dueñas
P A S E O D E L
Sculptures on the capitals of the beautiful
two-storey cloister show demons, skulls
R E C T O R E S P E R A B É
and tormented faces, which contrast with
serene carvings of the Virgin.
For keys to symbols see back flap

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364  CENTR AL SP AIN


Exploring Salamanca P Plaza Mayor
The majority of Salamanca’s This magnificent square was
monuments are located inside built by Felipe V to thank the city
the city centre, which is com­ for its support during the War of
pact enough to explore on the Spanish Succession (see p66).
foot. The university, the Plaza Designed by the Churriguera
Mayor, and the old and new brothers (see p29) in 1729 and
cathedrals are all unmissable. completed in 1755, it was once
used for bullfights, but nowadays
R Catedral Vieja and is a delightful place to stroll or
Catedral Nueva shop. Within the harmonious
Tel 923 28 11 23. Open 10am–8pm blend of arcad ed buildings and
daily (Oct–Mar: to 6pm). cafés are the Baroque town hall
∑ catedralsalamanca.org and, oppo site, the Royal Pavilion,
The new cathedral (built during from where the royal family used
the 16th–18th centuries) did to watch events in the square.
not replace the old, but was The Plaza Mayor is built of warm
built beside it. It combines a mix Façade of Salamanca University, on the golden sandstone, and is
of styles, being mainly Gothic, Patio de las Escuelas especially resplendent at dusk.
with Renais sance and Baroque
additions. The west front has P Universidad
elaborate Late Gothic stonework. Calle Libreros. Tel 923 29 44 00.
The 12th­ to 13th­century Open daily. Closed 1 & 6 Jan,
Romanesque old cathedral is 25 Dec and for official functions.
entered through the new one. & ∑ usal.es
The highlight is a 53­panel altar­ The university was founded
piece, painted in lustrous colours by Alfonso IX of León in 1218,
by Nicolás Florentino. It frames making it the oldest in Spain.
a statue of Salamanca’s patron The 16th­century façade of the
saint, the 12th­century Virgen Patio de las Escuelas (Schools
de la Vega, crafted in Limoges Square) is a perfect example of
enamel. In the vault above is a the Plateresque style (see p29).
fresco depicting scenes from the Opposite is a statue of Fray Luis
Last Judgment, also by Florentino. de León, who taught theology Royal Pavilion in Salamanca’s beautiful
The 15th­century Capilla de here. His former lecture room Plaza Mayor
Anaya (Anaya Chapel) contains is preserved in its original style.
the superb 15th­century alabas­ The Escuelas Menores building R Iglesia-Convento de
ter tomb of Diego de Anaya, an houses a huge zodiac fresco, San Esteban
archbishop of Salamanca. The Salamanca Sky. Plaza del Concilio de Trento s/n.
Tel 923 21 50 00. Open 10am–2pm,
4–6pm daily. Closed public hols. &
The 16th­century church of this
Dominican monastery has an
ornamented façade. The relief
on the central panel, complet ed
by Juan Antonio Ceroni in 1610,
depicts the stoning of St Stephen,
to whom the monas tery is dedi­
cated. Above is a frieze with
figures of children and horses.
The interior is equally
stunning. The ornate altarpiece,
of twisted gilt columns deco­
rated with vines, is the work
of José Churriguera and dates
from 1693. Below it is one of
Claudio Coello’s last paintings,
another representation of the
martyrdom of St Stephen.
The double­galleried Claustro
de los Reyes, completed in
Plateresque style in 1591, has
capitals that are carved with
Salamanca’s double cathedral, towering over the city the heads of the prophets.
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp569–70 and pp594–5


364-365_EW_Spain.indd 364 26/09/17 11:02 am

SALA M ANC A  365


wonderfully accom plished
example of the early
Plateresque style.
The adjacent house is where
author and philosopher Miguel
de Unamuno died in 1936. The
Casa­Museo de Unamuno, next
door to the university, contains
information about his life.
P Torre del Clavero
Plaza de Colón. Closed to the public.
The tower is the last vestige of
a palace that once stood here.
Sculpted shells on the walls of the Casa de las Conchas It was built around 1480 and is
named after a former resi dent,
P Casa de las Conchas Renaissance palace in 1521, and the key warden (clavero) of the
Calle de la Compañía 2. Tel 923 26 the coat of arms of the Fonseca Order of Alcántara.
93 17. Open Mon–Sat. Library: Open family appears over the main
9am–9pm Mon–Fri, 9am–2pm Sat. entrance. Its name arises from
This mansion’s name – House the fact that it became a semi­
of the Shells – derives from the nary for Irish priests at the end of
stone scallop shells that cover the 19th century. The interior
its walls. They are a symbol of Italianate courtyard has a first­
the Order of Santiago, one of floor gal lery and a chapel. Today
whose knights, Rodrigo Arias it is used as a hotel, restaurant
Maldonado, built the mansion in and university premises.
the early 1500s. He also adorned
it with his family’s coat of arms. R Convento de las Úrsulas
It now houses a public library. Calle de las Úrsulas 2. Tel 923 21 98 77.
Open Tue–Sun. Closed last Sun of
R Convento de las Dueñas month. &
Pl del Concilio de Trento 1. Tel 923 21 In the church of this convent is
54 42. Open 10:30am–12:45pm, 4:30– the carved tomb of its founder,
6:45pm Mon–Sat. Closed pub hols. & Alonso de Fonseca, the powerful
The main feature of this 16th­century Archbishop of Tower opposite Casa de las Muertes
Do minican convent, beside Santiago. The museum includes
San Esteban, is its Renaissance fine paint ings by Luis de Morales. Environs
double cloister, whose tranquil Northwest of the city, the
gardens seem strangely at odds P Casa de las Muertes Río Tormes leads through the
with the grotesques carved on Calle Bordadores. Closed to the public. fortified old town of Ledesma,
the capitals. The cloister also The House of the Dead takes its across lonely countryside to
preserves tiled Moorish arches. name from the small skulls that the Arribes del Duero, a series
embellish its façade. Gro tesques of massive reservoirs near to
E Casa Lis Museo Art and other figures also feature, the Portuguese border.
Nouveau y Art Deco and there is a cornice decorated Dominating the town of Alba
Calle Gibraltar 14. Tel 923 12 14 25. with cherubs. The façade is a de Tormes, 20 km (12 miles) east
Open Tue–Sun. & (free Thu am). of Salamanca, is the Torre de la
7 = Armería, the only remaining
This important art collection, part of the castle of the Dukes
housed in a 19th­century of Alba. The Iglesia de San Juan
building, includes paintings, was built in the 12th century
jewellery and furniture from in Romanesque style. The
all over Europe. Individual Iglesia­Convento de las Madres
rooms are devoted to porcelain Carmelitas was founded by
and Limoges enamel, and St Teresa of Ávila in 1571, and is
stained­glass work by Lalique. where her remains are now kept.
The castle of Buen Amor,
P Colegio de Fonseca or 24 km (15 miles) to the north,
de los Irlandeses was founded in 1227. Later,
Calle de Fonseca 4. Tel 923 29 45 70. it was used by the Catholic
Open daily. & Monarchs while fighting Juana
The Archbishop of Toledo, Skull carving on the façade of the Casa de la Beltraneja (see p60). Today it is
Alfonso de Fonseca, built this las Muertes a hotel but can still be visited.




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w Sierra de Gredos
Ávila. @ Navarrendonda. n
Navarrendonda, Calle del Río s/n, 920
34 80 01. ∑ gredosturismo.com
This great mountain range, west
of Madrid, has abundant wild life,
especially ibex and birds of
prey. Some parts have been
developed to cater for week-
enders who come skiing, fishing,
hunting or hiking. Tourism here The Toros de Guisando near El Tiemblo in the Sierra de Gredos
isn’t a recent phenomenon –
Spain’s first parador opened El Tiemblo, in the east, stand to Salamanca. Built in the
in Gredos in 1928. Despite the Toros de Guisando, four 11th century, the walls are over
this, there are many traditional stone statues resembling bulls, 2 km (1 mile) long. They are
vil lages off the beaten track. believed to be of Celt iberian punctuated by 88 sturdy turrets,
The slopes on the south side origin (see pp52–3). on which storks can be seen
of the range, extending into nesting in season. The ground
Extremadura, are fertile and falls away very steeply from the
sheltered, with pinewoods, e Ávila walls on three sides, making
and apple and olive trees. The Ávila. * 59,000. £ @ n Avenida the city practically impregnable.
northern slopes, in contrast, de Madrid 39, 920 35 40 00. Walls: The east side, however, is
have a covering of scrub and Open Tue–Sun (also Mon in relatively flat, and there-
a scattering of granite boulders. summer). & ( Fri. _ San fore had to
A single main road, the N502, Segundo (2 May); Sta Teresa (15 be fortified
crosses the centre of the range Oct). ∑ avilaturismo.com more heavily.
via the Puerto del Pico, a pass The oldest sections
at 1,352 m (4,435 ft), lead ing to At 1,131 m (3,710 ft) of the wall are here.
Arenas de San Pedro, the largest above sea level, Ávila They are guarded by
town of the Sierra de Gredos. de los Caballeros (“of the the most impressive of
On this road is the castle of Knights”) is the highest the city’s nine gate ways,
Mombeltrán, built at the end provincial capital in Spain. the Puerta de San
of the 14th century. In winter access roads can Vicente. The apse of the
Near Ramacastañas, south of be blocked with snow. cathedral also forms part
the town of Arenas de San The centre of the city is of the walls. The cathedral’s
Pedro, are the limestone cav erns encircled by the finest- war-like (and unfinished)
of the Cuevas del Águila. preserved medieval walls ex terior, decorated with
The sierra’s highest summit, in Europe. The walls are Tuna in Ávila beasts and scaly wild
the Pico Almanzor (2,592 m/ open to visitors (except men, is an unusual
8,500 ft) dominates the west. Monday and in low season). design. The interior is a mixture
Around it lies the Reserva One of the best views of of Romanesque and Gothic styles
Nacional de Gredos, pro tecting the walls is from Los Cuatro using an unusual mottled red
the mountain’s wildlife. Near Postes (Four Posts) on the road and white stone. Finer points



















The superbly preserved 11th-century walls, punctuated with 88 cylindrical towers, which encircle Ávila
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp569–70 and pp594–5


366-367_EW_Spain.indd 366 26/09/17 11:54 am

C ASTILLA Y LEÓN  367


to note are the carvings on the
retrochoir and, in the apse,
the tomb of a 15th-century
bishop known as El Tostado,
“the Tanned One”, because of
his dark complexion.
Many churches and convents
in Ávila are linked to St Teresa,
who was born in the city. The
Convento de Santa Teresa was
built on the site of her home
within the walls and she also lived
for more than 20 years in the
Monasterio de la Encarnación
outside the walls. There is even a
local sweetmeat, yemas de Santa Beautiful gardens and palace of La Granja de San Ildefonso
Teresa, named after the saint.
The Basílica de San Vicente, da Gloria of Santiago Cathedral r La Granja de San
also located just outside the (see pp96–7). Inside, the carved Ildefonso
eastern walls, is Ávila’s most tomb of St Vincent and his
important Romanesque church, sisters depicts their hideous Segovia. Tel 921 47 00 19. @ from
distinguished by its ornament- martyrdom in detail. Another Madrid or Segovia. Open 10am–8pm
ed belfry. It was begun in the Romanesque-Gothic church Tue–Sun (to 6pm Oct–Mar); gardens
11th century but has some worth seeing is the Iglesia de open until dusk. Closed 1, 6 & 23 Jan,
1 May, 24, 25 & 31 Dec. & (free from
Gothic features which were San Pedro. 3pm Wed & Thu for EU residents;
added later. The west door way Some way from the centre is from 5pm Apr–Sep). 8
is often compared to the Pórtico the Real Monasterio de Santo ∑ webdelagranja.com
Tomás, with three clois ters.
The middle one, carved with This royal pleas ure palace, a
the yoke and arrow em blem of project launched by Felipe V
the Catholic Monarchs, is the in 1720, is set against the back-
most beautiful. The last cloister drop of the Sierra de Guadarrama
leads to a museum displaying mountains, on the site of the
chalices and pro cessional crosses. old Convento de Jerónimos.
The church contains the tomb A guided tour meanders
of Prince Juan, the only son of through countless impressive
Fernando and Isabel. In the salons decorated with ornate
sacristy lies another historic objets d’art and Classical fres coes
figure: Tomás de Torquemada, against settings of marble, gilt
head of the Inquisition (see p60). and velvet. Huge glittering
In Ávila, you may see groups chandeliers, produced locally,
of tunas – students dressed in hang from the ceiling. In the
traditional costume walking the private apartments there are
Cloisters of the Real Monasterio de Santo town’s streets while singing superb tapestries. The church
Tomás in Ávila songs and playing guitars. is adorned in lavish high
Baroque style, and the Royal
St Teresa of Jesus Mausoleum contains the tomb
of Felipe V and his queen.
Teresa de Cepeda y Ahumada (1515–82) was one of the Catholic In the gardens, stately chest-
Church’s greatest mystics and reform ers. When nut trees, clipped hedges and
aged just 7, she ran away from home in the statues frame a complex series
hope of achieving martyrdom at the hands of pools. On 30 May, 25 July and
of the Moors, only to be recaptured by 25 August each year all of the
her uncle on the outskirts of the city. spectacular fountains are set
She became a nun at 19 but rebelled in motion. Between May and
against her order. From 1562, when July, four fountains run every
she founded her first convent, she Wed nesday and Saturday at
trav elled around Spain with her 5:30pm, and Sunday at 1pm.
disciple, St John of the Cross, The Real Fábrica de Cristales
founding more convents for
the followers of her order, the de La Granja (Royal Glass
Barefoot Carmelites. Her remains Manufacture) is also worth a
are in Alba de Tormes near Statue of St Teresa of Jesus visit. Founded in 1727, it still
Salamanca (see p365). in the city of Ávila produces high-quality pieces,
and it includes a glass museum.




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Convento PAS E O DE SA NTO DOMINGO DE G UZMAN
de los Carmelitas
Iglesia de la Vera Cruz Monasterio
El Parral
PLAZA POZO DE LA NIEVE
DE REINA PLAZA DE
Alcázar VICTORIA FROMKES Iglesia de C. DEL DOCTOR- VELASCO
EUGENIA C ALL E D E VELA RD E San Esteban PA S E O D E L O B I S P O
PLAZA
DE SAN
Río C l a m ores
San ESTEBAN Palacio de los
Andrés PLAZA VALDEL A G UILA Condes de Mansilla DOMINGO DE G UZMÁN
CAL LE DE DAOIZ
DE LA Iglesia de
Casa del Sol MERCED DEL ARCO ESCUDEROS PLAZA DE San Juan de los
(Museo PLAZA GUEVARA
C. MARQUÉS
PASEO DE D O N J U AN II
de Segovia) MAYOR Caballeros
PLAZA DE
Puerta de Cathedral San PLAZA SAN AGUSTIN COLMENARES
San Andrés Miguel HUERTOS Casa del
CALLE DE
PLAZA
PL. DEL Hidalgo DEL CONDE
CORPUS
PLAZA. DE
Segovia City Centre C. DE SAN VALENTÍN Corpus Christi SAN MARTÍN San DE CHESTE
Convento del Iglesia de Sebastián
C U E S T A D E LOS HO Y O S
PLAZA DE
1 Iglesia de San Juan C. DE JUAN BRAVO San Martín AVENDAÑO VALLADOLID,
SORIA
de los Caballeros Casa de PLAZA
DE LA
los Picos
2 Aqueduct C . DE SAN M ILLAN Aqueduct ARTILLERÍA MADRID
PLAZA
3 Casa de los Picos PLAZA DEL AZOGUEJO
DEL
4 Iglesia de San Martín SANCTI Iglesia de San Millan
SPIRITU
Riofrío
5 San Miguel 0 metres 100
6 Cathedral 0 yards 100
7 Alcázar For keys to symbols see back flap
t Segovia grilles en close the side chapels. de los Caballeros, which
The chapterhouse museum, features an outstanding
Segovia. * 54,900. £ @
n Plaza del Azoguejo 1, 921 46 with a coffered ceiling, houses sculptured portico, San Martín
67 20. ( Thu & Sat. _ San Pedro 17th-century Brussels tapestries. with its beautiful arcades
(29 Jun), San Frutos (25 Oct). At the city’s western end is and capitals, and San Miguel,
∑ turismodesegovia.com the Alcázar (see pp348–9). where Isabel the Catholic was
Rising sheer above crags with crowned Queen of Castille.
Segovia is the most spectacu- a multi tude of gabled roofs, Just inside the city walls, Casa
larly sited city in Spain. The old turrets and crenellations, it de los Picos has a unique
town is set high on a rocky appears like the archetypal façade adorned with diamond-
spur and surrounded by the fairy-tale castle. The present shaped stones.
Río Eresma and Río Clamores. building is mostly a fanciful
It is often compared to a ship – reconstruction following a fire Environs
the Alcázar on its sharp crag in 1862. It contains a muse um The vast palace of Riofrío,
forming the prow, the pin nacles of weaponry and a series of 11 km (7 miles) to the south-
of the cathedral rising like elaborately decorated rooms. west, is located in a deer
masts, and the aqueduct trailing Climb the keep for great views. park. It was built as a hunting
behind like a rudder. The view Notable churches include lodge in 1752, and has richly
of it from the valley below at the Romanesque San Juan decorated rooms.
sunset is magical.
The aqueduct, in use until the
late 19th century, was built at
the end of the 1st cen tury AD
by the Romans, who turned
the ancient town into an
important military base.
The cathedral, dating from
1525 and consecrated in 1678,
is the last great Gothic church
in Spain. It was built to replace
the old cathedral, which was
destroyed in 1520 during the
revolt of the Castilian towns
(see p62). The cloister, how ever,
survived and was rebuilt on the
new site. The pinnacles, flying
buttresses, tower and dome
form an impressive silhouette,
while the interior is light and
elegantly vaulted. Ironwork The imposing Gothic cathedral of Segovia
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp569–70 and pp594–5
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C ASTILLA Y LEÓN  369


Segovia’s Aqueduct Water channel Slots used to support Arches reach a maximum
blocks of ashlar height of 29 m (95 ft).










Water from the Río Frío flowed into Two tiers of arches – a total of 728 m In this niche a statue of the Virgin Mary
the city, filtered through a series of (2,400 ft) in length – were needed to replaces an earlier inscription relating to
tanks along the way. cope with the ground’s gradient. the founding of the aqueduct.
shows some of his works. On i Castillo de Coca
the first and second Saturdays Coca, Segovia. Tel 617 57 35 54.
in July, concerts are held in Open daily. Closed 15 days in Jan,
Plaza Mayor. 1st Tue of each month. & 8
Environs Built in the late 15th century for
The main sight at Turégano, the influential Fonseca family,
30 km (19 miles) west, is a large Coca castle is one of Castilla y
hilltop castle with the 15th- León’s most memorable fort-
century Iglesia de San Miguel. resses. It was used more as
a residential palace than a
defensive castle, although its
u Sepúlveda turrets and battlements are a
fine example of Mudéjar military
Segovia. * 1,300. n C/ Santos Justo architecture. The complex
y Pastor 8, 921 54 04 25 (closed Mon
Jul–Sep; Mon, Tue Oct–Jun). ( Wed. moated structure comprises
Segovia’s distinctive Alcázar, towering _ Los Toros (last week of Aug). three concentric walls around
over the city a massive keep. It is now a
On a slope above the Río forestry school, with a display
+ Alcázar de Segovia Duratón, this picturesque town of Romanesque woodcarvings.
Plaza de la Reina Victoria Eugenia. offers views of the Sierra de
Tel 921 46 07 59. Open daily. Closed Guadarrama. Parts of its medieval Environs
1 & 6 Jan, 24 & 25 Dec. & (free for EU walls and castle survive. Of its The 14th-century castle of
residents 3rd Tue of each month). several Romanesque churches, Arévalo in Avila, 26 km (16 miles)
7 8 ∑ alcazardesegovia.com
the Iglesia del Salvador, behind southwest, is where Isabel I
P Palacio de Riofrío the main square, is notable for spent her childhood. The
Tel 921 47 00 19. Open Tue–Sun. possessing one of the oldest porticoed Plaza de la Villa is
& (free for EU res Wed pm & Thu pm). atria in Spain (1093). surrounded by some attractive
∑ patrimonionacional.es half-timbered houses.
Environs
Winding through a canyon
y Pedraza de haunted by griffon vultures is
la Sierra the Río Duratón, 7 km (4 miles)
west of Sepúlveda. This area
Segovia. * 500. n C/ Real 3, 921 50 of striking beauty has been
86 66 (closed Mon & Tue). _ Nuestra designated the Parque Natural
Señora la Virgen del Carrascal (8 Sep). de las Hoces del Duratón.
Ayllón, 45 km (28 miles)
The aristocratic little town of northeast of Sepúlveda, has an
Pedraza de la Sierra is perched arcaded main square and the
high over rolling countryside. Plateresque (see p29) Palacio
Within its medieval walls, old de Juan de Contreras of 1497.
streets lead to the porticoed The Iberian and Roman ruins
Plaza Mayor (see p31). The huge at Tiermes, 28 km (17 miles)
castle, standing on a rocky further southeast, have been
outcrop, was owned by Basque partially excavated, and finds
artist Ignacio Zuloaga (1870– can be seen in Soria’s Museo Massive keep of the 15th-century
1945). The castle museum Numantino (see p381). Castillo de Coca




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o Medina del
Campo
Valladolid. * 21,600. £ @
n Plaza Mayor 48, 983 81 13 57.
( Sun. _ San Antolín (1–8 Sep).
∑ medinadelcampo.es
Medina became wealthy in
medieval times on the pro­
ceeds of huge sheep fairs and
is still an important agri cultural
centre today. The vast brick
Gothic­Mudejár Castillo de
la Mota (see p348), on its
outskirts, began as a Moorish
castle but was rebuilt in
1440. The town transferred
the castle’s ownership to the
Crown in 1475. Isabel I and her
daughter Juana “la Loca” (“the Castillo de la Mota at Medina del Campo
Mad”) both stayed here. Later,
it served as a prison – Cesare Alfonso XI around 1340 and then a Valladolid
Borja was incar cerated here converted by his son Pedro the Valladolid. * 311,500. £ @ n
from 1506 to 1508. In a corner Cruel into a stunning residence Glass Pavilion, Acera de Recoletos,
of the Plaza Mayor stands the for his mistress, María de Padilla. 983 21 93 10. ( Wed, Sat, Sun.
modest house where Isabel Pining for her native Andalucía, _ Easter week, San Pedro Regalado
died in 1504. she had the convent decorated (13 May), Virgen de San Lorenzo
with fine Moorish arches, baths (8 Sep). ∑ info.valladolid.es
Environs and tiles. Most impressive are
Towering over the plains, some the beautiful patio and the The Arabic city of Belad­Walid
25 km (16 miles) to the south main chapel. There is a fantastic (meaning “Land of the
of Medina del Campo, are the display of royal musical instru­ Governor”) is located at the
walls of Madrigal de las Altas ments, including the portable confluence of the Río Esgueva
Torres, which owes its name to organ of Juana “la Loca”. and Río Pisuerga. Although it
the hundreds of bastions that In the old quarter, the Iglesia has become sprawling and
marked the old wall; only 23 de San Antolín now houses a industrialized, Valladolid has
remain. In 1451 Isabel was fascinating religious art museum, some of Spain’s best Renais­
born here in a palace that later which displays paintings as well sance art and architecture.
became the Monasterio de las as a collection of liturgical objects. Fernando and Isabel (see pp60–
Agustinas in 1527. 61) were married in the Palacio
R Monasterio de Santa Clara Vivero in 1469 and, following the
+ Castillo de la Mota Tel 983 77 00 71. Open Tue–Sun. completion of the Reconquest
Tel 983 81 00 63. Open Tue–Sun pm. & (free Wed pm & Thu pm for EU in 1492, they made Valladolid
Closed public hols. 8 only. citizens). ∑ patrimonionacional.es their capital. Less spectacularly,
∑ castillodelamota.es
R Iglesia de San Antolín Columbus died here, alone and
Calle Postigo. Tel 983 77 09 80. forgotten, in 1506. In 1527
Open Tue–Sun. & Felipe II was born in the Palacio
p Tordesillas de los Pimentel. José Zorrilla,
who popularized the legendary
Valladolid. * 9,000. @ n Casas del
Tratado, 983 77 10 67 (closed Mon). Don Juan in his 1844 play (see
( Tue. _ Fiestas de la Peña (mid­ p39), was also born in the city.
Sep). ∑ tordesillas.net The Baroque façade (see p29)
of the city’s 15th­century
This pleasant town is where the university was begun in 1715 by
historic treaty between Spain Narciso Tomé. He later created
and Portugal was signed in the Transparente of Toledo
1494, dividing the lands of the Cathedral (see p397).
New World (see p60). A fateful The Iglesia de San Pablo has
oversight by the Spanish map­ a spectacular façade, embel­
makers left the immense prize lished with angels and coats
of Brazil to Portugal. of arms in Plateresque style.
The town’s main place to visit Among the other noteworthy
is the Monasterio de Santa Moorish patio in the Monasterio de Santa churches are Santa María la
Clara. It was constructed by Clara, Tordesillas Antigua, with its Romanesque
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp569–70 and pp594–5


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C ASTILLA Y LEÓN  371


belfry, and the Iglesia de Las converted by Charles V into
Angustias, where Juan de Spain’s national archive. The
Juni’s fine sculpture of the Visigothic church in the village
Virgen de los Cuchillos (Virgin of Wamba, 15 km (9 miles) to
of the Knives) is on display. the west, contains the tomb
of King Recceswinth.
P Casa de Cervantes An unusual long, narrow
Calle Rastro s/n. Tel 983 30 88 10. 15th-century castle on a ridge
Open Tue–Sun. Closed pub hols. overlooks the wine town of
& (free Sun am). Peñafiel, 60 km (40 miles) east
∑ museocasacervantes.mcu.es of Valladolid (see p349).
The author of Don Quixote
(see p38) lived in this simple s Medina de
house with whitewashed walls
from 1603 to 1606. The rooms Rioseco
contain some of Cervantes’ Valladolid. * 5,000. @ n Paseo de
original furnishings. Antonio Moro’s Calvary, in the Museo San Francisco, 983 72 03 19 (closed
Nacional de Escultura, Valladolid Mon). ( Wed. _ Easter week; San
R Cathedral Juan (24 Jun), Virgen del Castillviejo
Calle Arribas 1. Tel 983 30 43 62. Closed They include Juan de Juni’s (8 Sep). ∑ medinaderioseco.com
Mon. & (Oct–Jun: free Thu). 8 by emotive depiction of the burial
appt. ∑ catedral-valladolid.com of Christ and Recumbent Christ During the Middle Ages this
Work started on the unfinished by Gregorio Fernández. An town grew wealthy from the
cathedral in 1580 by Felipe II’s Alonso Berruguete altarpiece, profitable wool trade, enabling
favourite architect, Juan de and walnut choir stalls by it to commission leading artists,
Herrera, but lost mo mentum Diego de Siloé and other mainly of the Valladolid school,
over the centuries. Churri- artists, are among the other to decorate its churches. The
gueresque (see p29) flourishes fine works to be found here. dazzling star vaulting and superb
on the façade are in contrast The building itself is worthy wood work of the Iglesia de
to the sombre, square-pillared of attention, particularly the Santa María de Mediavilla, in the
interior, whose only redeeming Plateresque staircase, the chapel centre of town, are evidence of
flamboyance is a Juan de Juni by Juan Güas, and the patio of this. Inside, the Los Bena vente
altarpiece. The Museo Diocesano twisted columns and delicate Chapel is a tour de force, with a
inside, how ever, contains some basket arches. The façade is a fine colourful stucco ceiling by
fine religious art and sculpture. example of Isabelline (see p28) Jerónimo del Corral (1554), and
sculpture, portraying a melee of an altarpiece by Juan de Juni.
E Museo Nacional naked children scrambling about The interior of the Iglesia de
de Escultura in thorn trees and strange beasts. Santiago is stunning, with a
Cadenas de S Gregorio 1, 2 & 3. Tel The nearby 16th-century triple altarpiece designed by
983 25 03 75. Open Tue–Sun. Closed Palacio de Villena displays the the Churriguera brothers of
Sun pm, public hols. & (free Sat pm valuable Belén Napolitano Salamanca (see p29).
& Sun). ∑ museoescultura.mcu.es (Naples Christmas crib). The ancient buildings on
This permanent art collection Medina de Rioseco’s main
in the 15th-century Colegio de E Patio Herreriano Museo street, the Calle de la Rúa, are
San Gregorio consists mainly of de Arte Contemporáneo supported on wooden pillars,
wooden religious sculptures Español forming shady porticoes.
from the 13th to 18th centuries. Calle Jorge Guillén 6. Tel 983 36 27 71.
Open Tue–Sun. Closed Sun pm. &
7 ∑ museopatioherreriano.org
This private collection of
contemporary Spanish art
opened in 2002, housed in the
former Monastery of San Benito
with its fine cloisters. More than
800 works by 200 Spanish artists
are displayed, including work
by Joan Miró, Eduardo Chillida,
Antoni Tàpies and Miquel Barceló.
Environs
The moated grey castle that
dominates the village of
Façade of Colegio de San Simancas, 11 km (7 miles) Altarpiece by Juan de Juni, Iglesia de Santa
Gregorio, Valladolid southwest of Valladolid, was María de Mediavilla




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Castilla y León’s Environs
Baños de Cerrato, 12 km (7 miles)
Fiestas to the south, boasts the tiny
El Colacho (Sun after Corpus Visigothic Iglesia de San Juan
Christi, May/Jun), Castrillo Bautista, founded in 661. It is
de Murcia (Burgos). Babies alleged to be the oldest intact
born dur ing the previous 12 church in Spain. Carved capitals
months are dressed in their and horseshoe arches decorate
best Sunday clothes and laid the interior.
on mattresses in the streets.
Crowds of people, includ ing
the anxious parents, watch as f Frómista
El Colacho – a man dressed
in a bright red and yellow Palencia. * 820. £ @ n Barrio
costume – jumps over the del Canal s/n, 672 14 69 94. ( Fri.
babies in order to free them _ San Telmo (week after Easter).
from illnesses, especially The beautiful carved retrochoir of ∑ fromista.es
hernias. He is said to represent Palencia Cathedral
the Devil fleeing from the d Palencia This town on the Road to
sight of the Eucharist. This Santiago de Compostela (see
ritual is thought to have Palencia. * 81,200. £ @ n Calle pp86–7) is the site of one of
originated in 1621. Mayor 31, 979 70 65 23. ( Tue, Wed. Spain’s purest Romanesque
_ Virgen de la Calle (2 Feb). 8 churches. The Iglesia de San
∑ palenciaturismo.es Martín is the highlight of the
town, partly due to a restora tion
In medieval times, Palencia was in 1904, leaving the church,
a royal residence and the site of dating from 1066, entirely
Spain’s first university, founded Romanesque in style. The
in 1208. The city grad ually presence of Pagan and Roman
diminished in importance motifs suggest it may have
following its involvement in pre-Christian origins. Nearby,
the failed revolt of the Castilian the Iglesia de San Pedro has
towns of 1520 (see p62). notable Renais sance and
Although Palencia has since Gothic sculptures.
expanded considerably on
profits from coal and wheat, its Environs
centre, by the old stone bridge Carrión de los Condes, 20 km
El Colacho jumping over babies in over the Río Carrión, remains (12 miles) to the northwest, is
Castrillo de Murcia almost village-like. also on the Road to Santiago.
The city’s main sight is the The frieze on the door of the
St Agatha’s Day (Sun closest cathedral, known as La Bella Iglesia de Santiago depicts
to 5 Feb), Zamarramala Desconocida (the Unknown not religious figures but local
(Segovia). Every year two Beauty). It is especially worth arti sans. There are carvings
women are elected as a visit for its superb works of of bulls on the façade of
mayoresses to run the village art, many the result of Bishop the 12th-century Iglesia
on the day of St Agatha, Fonseca’s generous patronage. de Santa María del Camino.
patron saint of married The retrochoir, exquisitely The Monasterio de San Zoilo
women. They ceremonially sculpted by Gil de Siloé and has a Gothic cloister and now
burn a stuffed figure
representing a man. Simon of Cologne, and the two operates as a hotel.
Good Friday, Valladolid. altarpieces, are also note worthy.
The procession of 28 multi- The altarpiece above the high
coloured sculptures, which altar was carved by Philippe de
depict various scenes of Bigarny early in the 16th century.
the Passion, is one of the The inset panels are by Juan de
most spectacular in Spain. Flandes, Isabel I’s court painter.
Fire-walking (23 Jun), Behind the high altar is the Chapel
San Pedro Manrique (Soria). of the Holy Sacrament, with an
Men, some carrying people altarpiece dating from 1529 by
on their backs, walk barefoot Valmaseda. In this chapel, high
over burning embers. on a ledge to the left, is the
It is said that only local colourful tomb of Doña Urraca
people can do this of Navarra. Below the retrochoir,
without being burned.
a Plateresque (see p29) staircase
leads down to the fine Interior of the Iglesia de San Juan Bautista
Visigothic crypt. at Baños de Cerrato
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp569–70 and pp594–5


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C ASTILLA Y LEÓN  373

h Briviesca
Burgos. * 7,700. £ @ n Calle
Santa María Encimera 1, 947 59 39 39.
( first Sat of month. _ Feria de San
José (19 Mar), Santa Casilda (9 May).
∑ turismo-briviesca.com
This walled town, in the north-
east of Burgos province, has
an arcaded main square and
several mansions. The best
known of its churches is the
Convento de Santa Clara, with
Posada of the Monasterio de Santa María la Real, Aguilar de Campoo its 16th-century walnut reredos
carved with religious scenes. In
Located at Gañinas, 20 km Mountains is the old fortified 1387 Juan I of Aragón created
(12 miles) to the northwest (just town of Aguilar de Campoo. In the title Príncipe de Asturias for
south of Saldaña), is the Roman the centre of its ancient porticoed his son, Enrique, in the town. The
villa, La Olmeda. It has a number main square is the bell tower of Santuario de Santa Casilda, sit-
of mosaics, including a hunting the Colegiata de San Miguel. uated outside Briviesca, has
scene. Finds are shown in the In this church is a mausoleum a collection of votive objects.
archaeological museum in the containing the tomb of the
Iglesia de San Pedro in Saldaña. Marquises of Aguilar. Ask at Environs
the priest’s house for the key. Oña, 25 km (15 miles)
T Villa Romana La Olmeda Among the other places of north, is an attractive town.
Pedrosa de la Vega. Tel 979 11 99 97. interest are the Ermita de A Benedictine monastery
Open Tue–Sun. Closed 1 & 6 Jan, 24, Santa Cecilia, and the restored was founded here in 1011.
25 & 31 Dec. & includes museum. 8 Romanesque-Gothic Monasterio Overlooking a fertile valley,
de Santa María la Real, which 20 km (12 miles) further north-
g Aguilar de has a friendly posada (inn). east, is the little hilltop town
of Frías. Its castle overlooks
Campoo Environs cobbled streets and pretty old
Six km (4 miles) south, at Olleros houses. Crossing the Río Ebro is
Palencia. * 7,300. £ @ n Paseo
de la Cascajera, 10, 979 12 36 41 de Pisuerga, is a church built a fortified medieval bridge, still
(closed Mon, Tue & Sun pm). ( Tue. in a cave. From the parador at with its central gate tower.
_ San Juan y San Pedro (23–29 Jun), Cervera de Pisuerga, 25 km At Medina de Pomar, 30 km
Virgen del Llano (1st Sun in Sep). (15 miles) northwest of Aguilar, (20 miles) north of Oña, there is
∑ aguilardecampoo.com there are stunning views, and a 15th-century castle, once the
tours of the Reserva Nacional de seat of the Velasco family. Inside
Situated between the parched Fuentes Carrionas. This is a rugged are the ruins of a palace with
plains of Central Spain and the region overlooked by Curavacas, fine Mudéjar stucco deco ration
lush foothills of the Cantabrian a 2,540-m (8,333-ft) peak. and Arabic inscriptions.





















The medieval bridge over the Río Ebro at Frías, with its central gate tower




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374  CENTR AL SP AIN

k Burgos Cordón, a 15th-century palace
(now a bank) which has a
Burgos. * 180,000. £ @ n Plaza
de Alonso Martínez 7, 947 20 31 25. Franciscan cord motif carved
( Wed, Fri, Sat & Sun. _ San Lesmes over the portal. A plaque
(30 Jan); Pedro and San Pablo (29 Jun). declares that this is where the
∑ turismoburgos.org Catholic Monarchs welcomed
Columbus on his return, in 1497,
Founded in 884, Burgos has from the second of his famous
played a significant political and voy ages to the Americas.
military role in Spanish history. The lacy, steel-grey spires
It was the capital of the united of the cathedral (see pp376–7)
kingdoms of Castile and León are a prominent landmark from
from 1073 until losing that almost anywhere in the city.
honour to Valladolid after the fall On the rising ground behind
of Granada in 1492 (see pp60–61). it stands the restored Iglesia
Flemish triptych inside the collegiate During the 15th and 16th de San Nicolás, whose main
church in Covarrubias centuries, Burgos grew rich feature is a superb altarpiece by
from the wool trade and used Simon of Cologne (1505). Other
j Covarrubias its riches to finance most of churches worth visiting are the
the great art and archi tecture Iglesia de San Lorenzo, with its
Burgos. * 630. @ n Calle
Monseñor Vargas, 947 40 64 61 which can be seen in the city su perb Baroque ceiling, and the
(closed Sun pm, Mon; Mon–Wed today. Less auspicious ly, Franco Iglesia de San Esteban, which
in winter). ( Tue. _ San Cosme chose Burgos as his Civil War houses the Museo del Retablo,
and San Damián (26–27 Sep). headquarters (see pp70–71). open to the public during
The city’s strategic location on summer. The Iglesia de Santa
Named after the reddish caves the main Madrid–France highway Águeda is the place where
on its outskirts, Covarrubias and on the route to Santiago (see El Cid made King Alfonso VI
stands on the banks of the Río pp86–7) ensure many visitors; but swear that he played no part in
Arlanza. Medieval walls sur round even with out this Burgos would the murder of his elder brother,
the charming old centre with its justify a long detour. Despite its King Sancho II (see p360).
arcaded half-timbered houses size and extremes of climate, it is
(see p30). The distinguished one of most agreeable provin cial
collegiate church (closed Tue) capitals in Castilla y León.
shows the historical importance Approach via the bridge of
of Covarrubias: here is the tomb Santa María, which leads into the
of Fernán González, first old quarter through the restored
independent Count of Castile, Arco de Santa María, a gate way
and one of the great figures in carved with statues of var ious
Castilian history. By uniting local worthies. The main bridge
several fiefs against the Moors into the city, however, is the
in the 10th century, he started Puente de San Pablo, where
the rise in Castilian power that a statue commemorates the
ensured the resulting kingdom city’s hero, El Cid. Not far from The Arco de Santa María in Burgos, adorned
of Castile would play a leading the bridge stands the Casa del with statues and turrets
role in the unification of Spain.
The church museum contains El Cid (1043–99)
a Flemish triptych of the Ador-
ation of the Magi, attributed to Rodrigo Díaz de Vivar was born into a noble family in Vivar del Cid,
the school of Gil de Siloé, north of Burgos, in 1043. He served Fernando I, but was banished
and a 17th-century organ. from Castile after becoming embroiled in the
fratri cidal squabbles of the king’s sons, Sancho II
Environs and Alfonso VI. He switched allegiance to fight
A short distance east along the for the Moors, then changed side again,
Río Arlanza lies the ruins of the capturing Valencia for the Christians in 1094,
11th-century Romanesque ruling the city until his death. For his heroism
monastery of San Pedro de he was named El Cid, from the Arabic Sidi
(Lord). He was a charismatic man of great
Arlanza. At Quintanilla de las courage, but it was an anonymous poem, El
Viñas, 24 km (15 miles) north Cantar de Mío Cid, in 1180, that immortalized
of Covarrubias, is a ruined 7th- him as a romantic hero of the Reconquest
century Visigothic church. The (see pp58–9). The tombs of El Cid and his
reliefs on the columns of the wife, Jimena, are in Burgos Cathedral.
triumphal arch are remark able,
depicting sun and moon Equestrian statue of El Cid
symbols that may be pagan.
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp569–70 and pp594–5


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Burgos City Centre
1 Iglesia de San Esteban S A N MIGUEL TRINIDAD SANZ PASTOR Aeropuerto
6 km (4 miles)
2 Iglesia de San Nicolás Puerta de C OR A Z A S S. Gil Capitanía SANTANDER
PLAZA DE
3 Iglesia de Santa Águeda S. Esteban A. MARTÍNEZ General
A LV. FÁ Ñ EZ
4 Cathedral HOSPITAL CIEGOS
5 Iglesia de San Lorenzo SAN ESTEBAN SALDAÑA FE R N Á N G O N ZÁ LEZ C A L L E
SA N L ORE N ZO
6 Arco de Santa María C. HUERTO DEL REY AVELLANOS
7 Casa del Cordón Iglesia de V. PALENCIA CALLE LAÍN CALVO Iglesia de C. SANTANDER D E S A N J U AN
Casa del
Cordón
8 Museo de Burgos San Esteban C. CARD. SEGURA San Lorenzo PLAZA DE
9 Museo de la Arco de DOÑA JIMENA LLANAS DE PL. DE STO. LA LIBERTAD
Fernán
AFUERA
Evolución Humana González C. DE LA PALOMA MAYOR DOMINGO DE GUZMÁN CALLE VITORIA
Gobierno
PLAZA
Civil
PLAZA
Diputación
Iglesia de Ayunta- Palacio de la DEL CID
San Nicolás Cathedral miento
PL. REY PASEO DEL ESPOLÓN Puente de
PLAZA DE SAN FERNANDO
STA. MARÍA PASEO DE MARCELINO SANTA MARÍA San Pablo
Arco de
Iglesia de Santa María Arlanzón PLAZA Cartuja de
Miraflores
0 metres 150 Santa Águeda CALLE DE VALLADOLID CONDE DE
CASTRO
PASEO DE LA AUDIENCIA PLAZA LUIS La DE VEGA C . M I R A ND A CA L L E DE S A N PAB L O Evolución Humana
Puente de
0 yards 150 Santa María Casa de C . C AL E R A Museo de la
Angulo
CALLE DE LA MERCED
Museo
PLAZA
de Burgos
Merced
Estación de
MARTÍN SANTOS
Estaciòn de RENFE
700m (770 yards) C. SAN COSME C. DE MADRID Autobuses CALLE D EL TINTE
C A L L E C O N C E P C I Ó N
Real Monasterio de Huelgas
PALENCIA, VALLADOLID S. Cosme &
For keys to symbols see back flap S. Damián MADRID
Across the river, the palace of Atapuerca, the site of Europe’s
the Casa de Miranda houses the earliest settle ment (on the
archaeological section of the outskirts of Burgos), and a bus
Museo de Burgos, with finds to the site.
from the Roman city of Clunia. Two religious houses, on the
Nearby, the Casa de Angulo outskirts of Burgos, are worth
contains the Fine Arts section, visiting. Just west of the city
whose prize exhibits are Juan is the Real Monasterio de
de Padilla’s tomb by Gil de Siloé, Huelgas, a late 12th-century
and a Moorish casket in Cistercian convent founded
enamelled ivory. Also nearby by Alfonso VIII. One of the
is the Museo de la Evolución most interesting parts is the
Humana, which exhibits fossils Museo de Ricas Telas, a textile
from the site of the Sierra de museum of ancient fabrics from
Atapuerca, dating from some the convent’s royal tombs. In
780,000 years ago. A combined the Capilla de Santiago is a Polychrome altarpiece by Gil de Siloé,
entrance ticket includes the curious wooden figure of St in Cartuja de Miraflores
museum, the Yacimientos de James holding a sword, with E Museo de Burgos
which, according to tradition, Calle Miranda, 13. Tel 947 26 58 75.
royal princes were dubbed Open Tue–Sun. & (free Sat & Sun).
Knights of Santiago. 7 partial. ∑ museodeburgos.com
To the east of Burgos is the
Cartuja de Miraflores, a Car- E Museo de la Evolución
thusian monastery founded Humana
during the 15th century. The Paseo Sierra de Atapuerca. Tel 902 02
church includes two of Spain’s 42 46. Open Tue–Sun. & (ticket
offers combined entry to Yacimientos
most notable tombs, attributed de Atapuerca and transport).
to Gil de Siloé. One holds the
bodies of Juan II and Isabel of R Real Monasterio de Huelgas
Portugal; the other con tains Calle de los Compases. Tel 947 20
that of their son, Prince Alfonso. 16 30. Open Tue–Sun. Closed
The altarpiece by Gil de Siloé, some public hols. & 8 (free
allegedly gilded with the first Wed & Thu pm).
consignment of gold brought R Cartuja de Miraflores
Sculpted tomb of Juan de Padilla by Gil de back to Spain from the New Carretera Burgos–Cardeña, km 3.
Siloé, in Museo de Burgos World, is spectacular. Tel 947 26 34 25. Open daily.
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Burgos Cathedral

Spain’s third-largest cathedral was founded in 1221 by
Bishop Don Mauricio under Fernando III. The ground plan –
a Latin cross – measures 84 m (92 yards) by 59 m (65 yards).
Its construction was carried out in stages over three
centuries and involved many of the greatest artists and
architects in Europe. The style is almost entirely Gothic,
and shows influences from Germany, France and the Low
Countries. First to be built were the nave and cloisters,
while the intricate, crocketed spires and the richly
decorated side chapels are mostly later work. The
architects cleverly adapted the cathedral to its sloping West Front
The lacy, steel-grey spires
site, incorporating stairways inside and out. soar above a sculpted
balustrade depicting
Castile’s early kings.













. Golden Staircase
This elegant Renaissance staircase by Diego de
Siloé (1519–22) links the nave with a tall door
(kept locked) at street level.







KEY
1 Capilla de la Presentación
(1519–24) is a funerary chapel with
a star-shaped, traceried vault.
2 Capilla de Santa Tecla
3 Tomb of El Cid
4 Capilla de Santa Ana features
an altarpiece (1490) by the sculptor
Gil de Siloé. The central panel shows
St Anne with St Joachim.
5 Lantern
6 Capilla de San Juan
Bautista and museum
7 Interpretation Centre
8 Capilla de la Visitación
9 Reception and Puerta de Santa María
Information Centre
0 Capilla del Santisímo Cristo

For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp569–70 and pp594–5


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C ASTILLA Y LEÓN  377


Retrochoir VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
Several of the reliefs around the
chancel were carved by Philippe Practical Information
de Bigarny. This expressive scene, Plaza de Santa María. Tel 947 20
which was completed in 1499, 47 12. Open 9:30am–7:30pm
depicts the road to Calvary. daily (Nov–Mar: 10am–7pm). 5
9am, 10am, 11am, 7:30pm daily;
noon, 1pm, 2pm Sun. & ^ 7
∑ catedraldeburgos.info







. Constables’ Chapel
The tomb of the High Constable
of Castile and his wife lies beneath
the openwork vault of
this chapel of 1496.












Sacristy (1765) The sacristy
was rebuilt in Baroque
style, with an exuberant
plasterwork vault
and Rococo altars.











Puerta del Sarmental
The tympanum of this portal
of 1240 shows Christ flanked
by the Evangelists. This is the
main entrance for tourists.


. The Crossing
The magnificent star-ribbed
central dome, begun in
1539, rises on four huge
pillars. It is decorated with
effigies of prophets and
saints. Beneath it is the
tomb of El Cid and his wife.




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l Lerma a chapel in the north gallery.
The old pharmacy, just off the
Burgos. * 2,900. £ @ n Calle
Audiencia 6, 947 17 70 02 (closed cloister, has a display of jars from
Mon, except Aug). ( Wed. Talavera de la Reina (see p390).
_ Nuestra Señora de la Natividad The Benedictine community
(8 Sep). ∑ citlerma.com holds regular services in Greg-
orian chant in the Neo-Classical
The grandiose appearance of church by Ventura Rodríguez.
this town is largely due to the The monastery offers accom-
ambition of the notorious first modation for male guests.
Duke of Lerma (see p64), Felipe
III’s corrupt favourite and Environs
minister from 1598 to 1618. To the southwest lies the
He misused vast quantities of Garganta de la Yecla (Yecla
Spain’s new-found wealth on Gorge), where a path leads to
new buildings in his home town a narrow fissure cut by the river.
– all strictly Classical in style, Cloisters of the Monasterio de Santo To the northeast, the peaks
in accordance with pre vailing Domingo de Silos and wildlife reserve of the
fashion. At the top of the town, z Monasterio de Sierra de la Demanda extend
the Palacio Ducal, built in 1605 over into La Rioja.
as his residence, has been Santo Domingo
transformed into a parador. de Silos
There are good views over
the Río Arlanza from the arch- Santo Domingo de Silos (Burgos).
ways near to the Convento de Tel 947 39 00 49. @ from Burgos.
Santa Clara and also from the Open 10am–1pm, 4:30–6pm Tue–
Sun. Closed pub hols. & 5 9am,
Colegiata de San Pedro church, 7pm Mon–Sat, 11am & 7pm Sun.
which has a bronze statue of ∑ abadiadesilos.es
the Duke’s uncle.
St Dominic gave his name to
the monastery he built in 1041
over the ruins of an abbey
destroyed by the Moors. It is
a place of spiritual and artistic
pilgrimage – its tranquil setting
has inspired countless poets.
Others come to admire the
beautiful Romanesque cloisters, The 15th-century castle of Peñaranda
whose capitals are sculpted in a de Duero
variety of designs, both symbol-
istic and realistic. The carvings on x Peñaranda de
the corner piers depict various Duero
scenes from the Bible and the
ceilings are cof fered in Moorish Burgos. * 580. @ n Calle
style. The body of St Dominic Trinquete 7. Tel 947 55 20 63
The narrow, sloping streets of the Old Town rests in a silver urn, supported (closed Mon, Sun pm). ( Fri.
_ Santiago (25 Jul), Santa Ana
of Lerma by three Romanesque lions, in
(26 Jul), Virgen de los Remedios
(8 Sep). ∑ penarandadeduero.es
Gregorian Plainchant
The castle of Peñaranda was
At regular intervals throughout the built during the Reconquest (see
day, the monks of Santo Domingo pp58–9) by the Castilians, who
de Silos sing services in plainchant, had driven the Moors back
an unaccompanied singing of Latin south of the Río Duero. From
texts in unison. The origins of chant its hilltop site, there are views
date back to the beginnings of down to one of the most
Christianity, but it was Pope Gregory charming villages in old Castile,
I (590–604) who codified this where pantiled houses cluster
manner of worship. It is an ancient around a huge church. The
and austere form of music which main square is lined with porti-
has found a new appeal with coed, timber-framed buildings
modern audiences. In 1994 a
recording of the monks became Manuscript for an 11th-century and the superb Renaissance
a surprise hit all over the world. Gregorian chant Palacio de Avellaneda. Framing
its main doorway are various
Ruins of San Juan de Duero Monastery in Soria

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C ASTILLA Y LEÓN  381


Across the Duero is the ruined
monastery of San Juan de Duero,
with a 13th-century cloister of
interlacing arches.
Environs
North of Soria are the ruins of
Numantia, whose inhabitants
endured a year-long Roman
siege in 133 BC before defiantly
burning the town and them-
selves (see p54). To the northwest
is the Sierra de Urbión, a range
of pine-clad hills with a lake,
the Laguna Negra de Urbión.
Curtain walls and drum towers of Berlanga de Duero castle
E Museo Numantino
heraldic devices, and inside 20 km (12 miles) further south- Paseo del Espolón 8. Tel 975 22 13 97.
is a patio with fine decor ated east, and at Calatañazor, 25 km Open Tue–Sun. & (free Sat & Sun). 7
ceilings. On Calle de la Botica (16 miles) northeast of El Burgo
is a 17th-century pharmacy. de Osma, near to where the b Medinaceli
Moorish leader al Mansur was
Environs killed in 1002 (see p57). Soria. * 820. £ @ n Campo San
Nicolás, 975 32 63 47. _ Beato Julián
In Aranda de Duero, 18 km de San Agustín (28 Aug), Cuerpos
(10 miles) to the west, the Iglesia Santos (13 Nov). ∑ medinaceli.es
de Santa María, has an Isabelline v Soria
façade (see p28). Soria. * 40,150. £ @ n Calle Only a triumphal arch remains
Medinaceli 2, 975 21 20 52. of Roman Ocilis, perched on a
P Palacio de Avellaneda ( Thu. _ San Juan (24 Jun). high ridge over the Río Jalón.
Plaza Condes de Miranda 1. Tel 947 ∑ sorianitelaimaginas.com Built in the 1st century AD, it is
55 20 13. Open 10am–2pm, 4–8pm the only one in Spain with three
Tue–Sun. 8 only (every 30 min). Castilla y León’s smallest pro- arches. It has been adopted as
vincial capital stands on the the symbol for ancient monu-
banks of the Río Duero. Soria’s ments on Spanish road signs.
c El Burgo de Osma stylish, modern parador is
named after the poet Antonio Environs
Soria. * 5,250. @ n Plaza Mayor 9,
975 36 01 16 (closed Wed except in Machado (1875–1939, see p39), Just to the east are the red cliffs of
high season). ( Sat. _ Virgen del who wrote in praise of the town the Jalón gorges. On the Madrid–
Espino and San Roque (14–19 Aug). and the surrounding plains. Zaragoza road is the 12th-
∑ burgodeosma.com Many of the older buildings are century Cistercian monastery
gone, but among those re main- of Santa María de Huerta. It
The most interesting sight in ing are the imposing Palacio includes a 13th-century Gothic
this attractive village is the de los Condes de Gómara, and cloister and the superb, crypt-
cathedral. Although it is mostly the Concatedral de San Pedro, like Monks’ Refectory.
Gothic (dating from 1232), with both built in the 16th century.
Renaissance additions, the The Museo Numantino, R Monasterio de Santa
tower is Baroque (1739). Its opposite the municipal gardens, María de Huerta
treasures include a Juan de Juni displays a variety of finds from Tel 975 32 70 02. Open daily.
altarpiece and the tomb of the the nearby Roman ruins of Closed 24 Aug. & 7
founder, San Pedro de Osma. Numantia and Tiermes (see p369). ∑ monasteriohuerta.org
The museum has a valuable
collection of illuminated
manuscripts and codices.
Porticoed buildings line the
streets and the Plaza Mayor, and
storks nest on the Baroque
Hospital de San Agustín.

Environs
Overlooking the Río Duero at
Gormaz, 12 km (7 miles) south,
is a massive castle with 28
towers. There are also medieval
fortresses at Berlanga de Duero, Decorative arches in the cloister of the monastery of San Juan de Duero
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp569–70 and pp594–5


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Eyewitness Travel LAYERS PRINTED:
Regional opener template “UK” LAYER
(SourceReport v1.2)
Date 5th December 2012
Size 125mm x 217mm

CENTR AL SP AIN  383

CASTILLA-LA MANCHA


Guadalajara • Cuenca • Toledo •
Albacete • Ciudad Real

La Mancha’s empty beauty, its windmills and medieval
castles, silhouetted above the sienna plains, was
immortalized by Cervantes in Don Quixote’s epic
adventures. Its brilliantly sunlit, wide horizons are among
the classic images of Spain. This scarcely visited region has
great, scenic mountain ranges, dramatic gorges and the two
monument-filled cities of Toledo and Cuenca.

As the name Castilla sug gests you will gorges; on two sides it spills down
always find a castle nearby in this region. steep hill sides. Villanueva de los Infantes,
Most were built in the 9th–12th centuries, Chinchilla, Alcaraz and Almagro are
when the region was a battle ground towns of character built between the
between Christians and Moors, while 16th and 18th centuries. Ocaña and
others mark the 14th- and 15th-century Tembleque each has a splendid
frontiers bet ween the kingdoms of Aragón plaza mayor (main square).
and Castile. Sigüenza, Belmonte, Alarcón, La Mancha’s plains are brightened by
Molina de Aragón and Calatrava la natural features of great beauty in its two
Nueva are among the most impressive. national parks – the Tablas de Daimiel, and
Toledo, which was the capital of Cabañeros, within the Montes de Toledo.
Visigothic Spain, is an outstanding Rimming the plains are beautiful upland
museum city. Its rich architectural and areas: the olive groves of the Alcarria;
artistic heritage derives from a coa- Cuenca’s lime stone mountains; and the
lescence of Muslim, Christian and Jewish peaks of the Sierra de Alcaraz. The wine
cultures with medieval and Renaissance region of La Mancha is the world’s largest
ideas and influences. expanse of vineyards. Around Consuegra
Cuenca is another attractive city. Its and Albacete fields turn mauve in autumn
Old Town is perched above converging as the valuable saffron crocus blooms.






















Windmills above Campo de Criptana on the plains of La Mancha
Hanging Houses over the Huécar ravine in Cuenca, Castilla-La Mancha



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Exploring Castilla-La Mancha
Campisábalos
The historic city of Toledo is Castilla-La Mancha’s major
tourist destination. Less crowded towns with historical ATIENZA Zaragoza
charm include Almagro, Oropesa, Alcaraz and Guadalajara.
At Sigüenza, Calatrava, Belmonte and Alarcón there are Sorbe SIGÜENZA Alcolea Maranchón Embid
medieval castles, reminders of the region’s eventful past. Cogolludo del Pinar
Some towns on the plains of La Mancha, such as El Toboso Jadraque Tajuña MOLINA DE
and Campo de Criptana, are associated with the adventures Brihuega Cifuentes Virgen de ARAGÓN
la Hoz
of Don Quixote (see p399). The wooded uplands of the Parque Natural
del Alto Tajo
Serranía de Cuenca, the Alcarria and the Sierra de Alcaraz GUADALAJARA Tajo Villanueva de Alcorón
provide picturesque scenic routes, and the wetland nature 0 kilometres 50 Lupiana Beteta
LA ALCARRIA
reserve of the Tablas de Daimiel is a haven for bird lovers. 0 miles 30 Madrid Sacedón Alcocer Priego
Ávila Pastrana Buendía Tragacete
Sights at a Glance Embalse de Cañaveras
Buendía
1 Atienza Madrid Villalba SERRANÍA DE CUENCA
2 Sigüenza Tiétar Escalona Madrid Tajo Júcar Ciudad
3 Molina de Aragón ILLESCAS Huete Encantada
4 La Alcarria Alberche Maqueda Guadarrama Carrascosa CUENCA Cañete
5 Guadalajara TALAVERA Aranjuez Tarancón del Campo Teruel
6 Serranía de Cuenca Lagartera DE LA REINA Bargas Ocaña UCLÉS Guadazaón Moya
Saelices
7 Cuenca pp388–9 Cáceres OROPESA TOLEDO SEGÓBRIGA Carboneras
de Guadazaón
8 Segóbriga El Puente del Alcaudete Tajo Guadamur San Lorenzo Cardenete
de la Jara
de la Parrilla
9 Uclés Arzobispo San Martín de Lillo Corral de Almaguer Embalse de Mira
Montalbán
0 Illescas La Nava de Menasalbas TEMBLEQUE Villaescusa Alarcón
q Talavera de la Reina Ricomalillo Sevilleja de Orgaz de Haro Honrubia
w Oropesa la Jara MONTES DE TOL E D O Los Yébenes EL TOBOSO BELMONTE ALARCÓN Minglanilla
e Montes de Toledo Anchuras Mota del Cuervo Valencia
Retuerta
r Toledo pp392–7 Parque Nacional CONSUEGRA CAMPO DE CRIPTANA Iniesta
del Bullaque
t Tembleque de Cabañeros Pueblo Nuevo Urda Alcázar de San Clemente Cabriel
y Consuegra del Bullaque Puerto Lápice San Juan Socuéllamos Júcar Alborea
u Campo de Criptana C A S T I L L A - L A M A N C H A Mahora ALCALÁ DEL
i El Toboso Puebla de Porzuna TABLAS DE La Roda Jorquera JÚCAR
o Belmonte Don Rodrigo DAIMIEL Daimiel Tomelloso La Gineta
Guadiana
p Alarcón Mérida Agudo Piedrabuena LAGUNAS DE Munera Casas de
Juan Núñez
a Alcalá del Júcar Ciudad Real Manzanares La Solana RUIDERA El Bonillo ALBACETE
s Albacete Abenójar Moral de Cueva de Balazote Chinchilla de Valencia
Montesinos
f Alcaraz Chillón ALMAGRO Calatrava San Carlos Monte Aragón Bonete Almansa
g Lagunas de Ruidera Almadén del Valle Viveros Robledo Cañada Alicante
Pozo
h Villanueva de los Infantes Alamillo Puertollano VALDEPEÑAS Caudete (Alacant)
j Valdepeñas VALLE DE ALCUDIA CALATRAVA Santa Cruz VILLANUEVA DE ALCARAZ Ontur
LOS INFANTES
k Viso del Marqués Plaza del Judío LA NUEVA de Mudela Las Guadalmena Ayna Liétor
1106m
VISO DEL
l Calatrava la Nueva MARQUÉS Virtudes Mundo Hellín
z Almagro Jaén Ubeda SIERRA DE ALCARAZ Murcia
Elche de la Sierra
x Tablas de Daimiel Yeste
Férez
c Valle de Alcudia Arguellite Letur
Tours
d Sierra de Alcaraz Nerpio
The tranquil Montes de Toledo


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C ASTILLA-LA M ANCHA  385



Campisábalos
ATIENZA
Zaragoza
SIGÜENZA Maranchón
Alcolea Embid
Cogolludo del Pinar
Sorbe
Jadraque
Tajuña MOLINA DE
Brihuega Cifuentes Virgen de ARAGÓN
la Hoz
Parque Natural
Tajo del Alto Tajo
GUADALAJARA Villanueva de Alcorón
Lupiana Beteta
LA ALCARRIA
Madrid Sacedón Alcocer Priego
Ávila Pastrana Buendía Tragacete Cattle grazing on the isolated plains of La Mancha
Embalse de
Buendía Cañaveras
Madrid Tajo Villalba SERRANÍA DE CUENCA
Tiétar Escalona Madrid Huete Júcar Ciudad
Encantada
Alberche Maqueda Guadarrama ILLESCAS Carrascosa CUENCA Cañete
del Campo
TALAVERA Aranjuez Tarancón UCLÉS Teruel
Lagartera DE LA REINA Ocaña Saelices Guadazaón Moya
Bargas Carboneras Key
Cáceres OROPESA Alcaudete TOLEDO SEGÓBRIGA San Lorenzo de Guadazaón
El Puente del de la Jara Tajo Guadamur de la Parrilla Cardenete Motorway
Arzobispo San Martín de Lillo Corral de Almaguer Embalse de Mira Major road
Montalbán
La Nava de Menasalbas TEMBLEQUE Villaescusa Alarcón Secondary road
Ricomalillo Orgaz de Haro Honrubia
Sevilleja de MONTES DE TOL E D O Scenic route
la Jara Los Yébenes EL TOBOSO BELMONTE ALARCÓN Minglanilla
Mota del Cuervo Main railway
Anchuras Retuerta CONSUEGRA Valencia Minor railway
del Bullaque CAMPO DE CRIPTANA Iniesta
Urda San Clemente Regional border
Parque Nacional
Pueblo Nuevo Alcázar de Cabriel
de Cabañeros
del Bullaque Puerto Lápice San Juan Socuéllamos Júcar Alborea Summit
C A S T I L L A - L A M A N C H A Mahora ALCALÁ DEL
Puebla de Porzuna TABLAS DE La Roda Jorquera JÚCAR
Don Rodrigo DAIMIEL Daimiel Tomelloso La Gineta
Guadiana
Mérida Piedrabuena Munera Casas de
Agudo LAGUNAS DE ALBACETE Juan Núñez
Ciudad Real Manzanares La Solana RUIDERA El Bonillo
Abenójar ALMAGRO Moral de Cueva de Balazote Chinchilla de Valencia
Montesinos
Chillón Calatrava San Carlos Monte Aragón Bonete Almansa
Almadén del Valle Viveros Pozo
Puertollano VALDEPEÑAS Robledo Cañada Caudete Alicante
Alamillo (Alacant)
CALATRAVA Santa Cruz VILLANUEVA DE ALCARAZ Ontur
Plaza del Judío LA NUEVA de Mudela LOS INFANTES Guadalmena
1106m VISO DEL Las Ayna Liétor Hellín
VALLE DE ALCUDIA
MARQUÉS Virtudes Mundo
Jaén Ubeda SIERRA DE ALCARAZ Murcia
Elche de la Sierra
Yeste Férez
Arguellite Letur
Nerpio
Getting Around
Castilla-La Mancha is best explored by car
as it is well endowed with a network of
motorways radiating outwards from Madrid.
The region is also served by high-speed AVE
trains which run between Madrid, Seville,
Toledo and Albacete (via Cuenca). Otherwise,
public transport is infrequent and slow. The village of Alcalá del Júcar
For keys to symbols see back flap
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386  CENTR AL SP AIN

1 Atienza
Guadalajara. * 500. n Héctor
Vázquez 2, 949 39 92 93 (closed
Mon–Fri). ( Fri. _ La Caballada
(Pentecost Sun). ∑ turismo
castillalamancha.es
Rising high above the valley it
once protected, Atienza contains
vestiges of its medi eval past.
Crowning the hill is a ruined
12th-century castle. The arcaded
Plaza Mayor and the Plaza del
Trigo are joined by an original
gateway. The Museo de San
Gil, a religious art museum, is
in the church of the same name.
The Iglesia de Santa María del Semi-recumbent figure of El Doncel on his tomb in Sigüenza Cathedral
Rey, at the foot of the hill,
displays a Baroque altarpiece. Doncel, built for Martín Vázquez Environs
de Arce, Isabel of Castile’s page West of Molina is the Virgen
Environs (see p60). He was killed in battle de la Hoz chapel, set in a rust-
Campisábalos, to the west, has against the Moors in 1486. The red ravine. Further southwest
a 12th-century Romanesque sacristy has a ceiling carved is a nature reserve, the Parque
church. The Hayedo de Tejera with flowers and cherubs. Natural del Alto Tajo.
Negra, further west, is a nature
reserve of beech woods.
3 Molina de Aragón
E Museo de San Gil
Calle San Gil. Tel 949 39 90 41. Open Guadalajara. * 4,000 @
n Calle de las Tiendas 62, 949 83
Sat & Sun; by appt weekdays. &
20 98. ( Thu. _ Día del Carmen
(16 Jul), Ferias (30 Aug–5 Sep).
∑ turismomolinaaltotajo.com
2 Sigüenza
Molina’s attractive medieval
Guadalajara. * 5,000. £ @
n Calle Serrano Sanz 9, 949 34 70 07. quarter is at the foot of a hill next
( Sat. _ San Vicente (22 Jan), to the Río Gallo. The town was
San Juan (24 Jun), Fiestas Patronales disputed during the Reconquest
(mid-Aug). ∑ siguenza.es and captured from the Moors by
Alfonso I of Aragón in 1129. Many
Dominating the hillside town monu ments were destroyed Arab ramparts above Molina de Aragón’s
of Sigüenza is its impressive during the War of Independence Old Town
castle-parador. The cathedral (see p67), but the 11th-century
is Romanesque, with later hill top castle preserves seven
additions such as the Gothic- original towers. It is possible to 4 La Alcarria
Plateresque cloisters. In one of visit the Romanesque-Gothic Guadalajara. @ Guadalajara.
the chapels is the Tomb of El Iglesia de Santa Clara. n Palacio Ducal, Plaza de la Hora,
Pastrana, 949 37 06 72. ∑ turismo
castillalamancha.es
This vast stretch of undulating
olive groves and fields east of
Guadalajara is still evocative of
Camilo José Cela’s (see p39) book
Journey to the Alcarria. Driving
through the rolling hills, it seems
that little has changed since this
account of Spanish rural life was
written in the 1940s.
Towards the centre of the
Alcarria are three immense,
adjoining reservoirs called the
Mar de Castilla (Sea of Castile).
Olive groves in La Alcarria in the province of Guadalajara The first reservoir was built in
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp570–71 and pp595–7


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C ASTILLA-LA M ANCHA  387


1946, and holiday homes have
subsequently sprung up close
to the shores and on the
outskirts of villages.
In the historic ducal town of
Pastrana, 45 km (28 miles) south­
east of Guadalajara, is one of the
prettiest towns in the Alcarria.
The town developed alongside
the Palacio Mendoza, and by the
17th century was larger and
more affluent than Guadalajara.
The Iglesia Colegiata de la
Asunción contains four 15th­
century Flemish tapestries and
paintings from El Greco’s school.
Brihuega, 30 km (19 miles)
northeast of Guadalajara, has
a pleasant old centre.

5 Guadalajara
Guadalajara. * 84,800. £ @ n
Plaza Aviación Militar Española, 949 88
70 99. ( Tue, Sat. _ Virgen de la
Antigua (Sep). ∑ guadalajara.es
Guadalajara’s history is largely
lost within the modern city,
although traces of its
Renaissance splendour survive.
The Palacio de los Duques del Sculpted rock figures in Ciudad Encantada
Infantado, built between the
14th and 17th centuries by the The 15th­century Iglesia de beauty spots are the Ciudad
powerful Mendoza dynasty, is San Francisco is home to the Encantada (Enchanted City),
an out standing example of mausoleum of the Mendoza where the limestone has been
Gothic­Mudéjar architecture (see family; it cannot, however, be eroded into spectacular shapes,
p28). The main façade and patio visited. The cathedral is built and the moss­clad waterfalls
are adorned with carving. The on the site of a mosque. and rock pools of the
restored palace now houses the Nacimiento del Río Cuervo
Museo Provincial. Among the Environs (Source of the River Cuervo).
churches in the town is the At Lupiana, 11 km (7 miles) east The main river flowing
Iglesia de Santiago, with a of Guadalajara, is the two­storey through the area, the Júcar,
Gothic­Plateresque chapel Monasterio de San Bartolomé, carves a gorge near Villalba de
by Alonso de Covarrubias. founded in the 14th century. la Sierra. The viewpoint of the
Ventano del Diablo gives
P Palacio de los Duques the best view of the gorge.
del Infantado Between Beteta and Priego, to
Plaza de los Caídos en la Guerra Civil the north, is an other spectacular
13. Tel 949 21 33 01. Open daily; river canyon, the Hoz de Beteta,
museum: Tue–Sun. 7 where the Río Guadiela has cut
its way through the surrounding
cliffs. There are good views from
6 Serranía de the convent of San Miguel de las
Cuenca Victorias. A small road leads to
the 18th­century royal spa
Cuenca. @ Cuenca. n Calle of Solán de Cabras.
Alfonso VIII 2, Cuenca, 969 24 10 51.
∑ serraniaaltadecuenca.es In the emptier eastern and
southern tracts is Cañete, a
To the north and east of Cuenca pretty, fortified old town with a
stretches the vast serranía, a parish church displaying 16th­
mountainous area of forests century paintings. To the south­
Detail of the façade of the Palacio de los and pastures dissected by deep east of Cañete are the eerie ruins
Duques del Infantado gorges. Its two most popular of the abandoned town of Moya.




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388  CENTR AL SP AIN

7 Street-by-Street: Cuenca

Cuenca’s picturesque Old Town sits astride a steeply sided The Plaza de la Merced
spur which, drops precipitously on either side to the deep buildings contrast with
gorges of the Júcar and Huécar rivers. Around the Moorish the modern Museo de las
town’s narrow, winding streets grew the Gothic and Ciencias (Science Museum).
Renaissance city, its monuments built with with the profits of
the wool and textile trade. The main sight is the cathedral, Museo de las
one of the most original works of Spanish Gothic, with Ciencias
Anglo-Norman influences. One of the picturesque C
Hanging Houses, which jut out over the Huécar A
L
ravine, has been converted into the L
E
excellent Museum of Abstract Art. D
E

S
A N T A M A R Í A








C A L L E D E A L F O N S O V I I I
Torre Mangana C A L L E M O S E N D I E G O D E V A L E R A
This ruined lookout tower at
the top of the town is all that
remains of an Arab fortress.
There are wonderful pano ramic
views from the top.
C A L L E D E O B I S P O V A L E R O

Ayuntamiento





Museo de Cuenca
The collection, covering
prehistory up to the
17th century, includes
an excellent exhibition
on Roman Cuenca.



Key
Suggested route

. Museo de Arte Abstracto
Spain’s abstract art museum is inside one of
the Hanging Houses. It contains works by
the movement’s leading artists, including
Antoni Tàpies and Eduardo Chillida.
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp570–71 and pp595–7


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C ASTILLA-LA M ANCHA  389


Plaza Mayor VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
This café-lined,
arcaded square Practical Information
is in the heart of Cuenca. * 57,000.
the Old Town. ∑ cuenca.es
The 18th-century n Calle Alfonso VIII 2, 969 24 10
Baroque town hall 51. ( Tue. Museo Diocesano:
(ayun tamiento), Open Tue–Sun. & Museo de
built with arches, Arte Abstracto: Open Tue–Sun.
stands at the & Museo de las Ciencias:
south end. Open Tue–Sun. & ^
Museo de Cuenca: Open Tue–Sat,
Sun am. &
0 metres 50
Transport
0 yards 50 £ Calle Mariano Catalina,
902 32 03 20. @ Calle Fermín
The Iglesia de San Miguel, Caballero 20, 969 22 70 87.
perched over the Júcar gorge,
was built in the Romanic style.





S E V E R O C ATA L I N A



P LAZ A
M AY O R
C A L L E D E S A N P E D R O
Museo Diocesano
The cathedral’s treasures,
which are housed in the
C A L L E D E O B I S P O V A L E R O CALLE DE J ULIÁN ROMERO paintings by El Greco.
Palacio Episcopal, include














To Parador de Cuenca . Cathedral
Highlights of the 12th- to
18th-century building are the
decorated altar, chapter house
and the side chapels.

. Hanging Houses
The 14th-century beamed
Casas Colgadas were once
used as a summer residence
for the royal family.
For keys to symbols see back flap


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390  CENTR AL SP AIN


R Hospital de la Caridad
Calle Cardenal Cisneros 2. Tel 925
54 00 35. Open Mon–Sat. & 7
q Talavera de
la Reina
Toledo. * 89,000. £ @ n Calle
Ronda del Cañillo 22, 925 82 63 22.
( Wed & 1st Sat of month. _ Las
Mondas (Sat after Easter), Feria de San
Isidro (15–18 May), Virgen del Prado
(8 Sep), Feria de San Mateo (20–23
Sep). ∑ talavera.org
Remains of a Roman building in Segóbriga
A ruined 15th-century bridge
8 Segóbriga from 1174, because of its cen tral across the Tagus marks the
location. The austere building you entrance to the old part of this
Saelices, Cuenca, CM-310, km 58.
Tel 629 75 22 57. Open Tue–Sun. see today is mainly Renaissance busy market town. From the
Museum: Closed some public hols. but over laid with Baroque detail. bridge you can walk past the
& 8 by appt. ∑ segobriga.org It has a magnificent carved surviving part of the Moorish
wooden ceiling and staircase. and medieval wall to the 12th-
The small ruined Roman city century collegiate church. It has
of Segóbriga, near the town a small but beautiful Gothic
of Saelices, is located in open, 0 Illescas cloister, and 18th-century belfry.
unspoiled countryside close to Toledo. * 23,500. £ @ n Plaza Talavera’s ceramic work shops
the Madrid–Valencia motor way. Mercado 14, 925 51 10 51. ( Thu. still produce the blue and yellow
The Romans who lived here _ Fiesta de Milagro (11 Mar), Virgen azulejos (tiles) which have been a
exploited the surrounding area, de la Caridad (31 Aug). ∑ illescas.es trade mark of the town since the
growing cereals, felling timber 16th century; but nowadays
and mining minerals. Illescas was the summer they also make domestic and
Many parts of the city can be location for Felipe II’s court. decorative objects.
explored. The 1st-century theatre While there is little to see of its A good selection of azulejos
– which has a capacity of 2,000 Old Town, the 16th-century can be seen in the large Ermita
people – is sometimes used for Hospital de la Caridad, de la Virgen del Prado by
perform ances today. Segóbriga near the Iglesia the river. Many of the
also had a necropolis, an amphi- de Santa María interior walls have
theatre, a temple to Diana and (12th–13th cen tury superb 16th- to 20th-
public baths. The quarries which and reno vated in century tile friezes
supplied the stone to build the the 15th), has an of religious scenes.
city can also be seen. important art collec- Housed in a 17th-
Nearby, a small mu seum has tion, including five century convent, the
some of the site’s finds, although late El Grecos (see Ceramics in Talavera Museo Ruiz de Luna
the best statues are in Cuenca’s p395). The subjects of workshop houses the private
Museo Arqueológico (see p388). three of these are the Talavera pottery
Nativity, the Annunciation and collection and personal works
9 Monasterio de the Coronation of the Virgin. of ceramist Juan Ruiz de Luna.
Uclés
Uclés, Cuenca. Tel 969 13 50 58.
Open 10am–6pm daily (till 8pm Jul
& Aug). Closed 1 & 6 Jan, 25 Dec.
& ∑ monasterioucles.com
The small village of Uclés, to the
south of the Alcarria, is domi-
nated by its impressive castle-
monastery, nicknamed “El Escorial
de La Mancha” for the similarity
of its church’s profile to that of El
Escorial (see pp334–5). Originally
an impregnable medieval for tress,
Uclés became the monastery
seat of the Order of Santiago Part of a frieze of tiles in Talavera’s Ermita del Virgen del Prado
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp570–71 and pp595–7


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C ASTILLA-LA M ANCHA  391

e Montes de Toledo
Castilla-la Mancha’s
Toledo. @ Pueblo Nuevo del Fiestas
Bullaque. n Parque Nacional de
Cabañeros, 926 78 32 97. 8 La Endiablada (2–3 Feb)
∑ turismocabaneros.com Almonacid del Marquesado
(Cuenca). At the start of the
To the southwest of Toledo two-day-long “Fiesta of the
a range of low mountains Bewitched”, men and boys,
sweeps towards Extremadura. gaudily dressed as “devils”, with
In medieval times the Montes cowbells strapped to their
de Toledo were owned by backs, gather in the house of
bishops and the kings. They their leader, the Diablo Mayor.
cover some 1,000 sq km They accompany the images
(386 sq miles). of the Virgen de la Candelaria
(Virgin of Candlemas) and
The attractive nature re serve St Blaise in procession. As
Traditional embroidery work in Lagartera, of the Parque Nacional de the devils dance alongside
near Oropesa Cabañeros (see pp34–5) encloses the floats bearing the saints’
a sizable area of woodland and images, they ring their bells
w Oropesa pastures used for grazing sheep. loudly and incessantly.
The easiest access to the park is
Toledo. * 2,900. £ n Calle
Hospital 10, 925 43 02 01. ( Mon & from Pueblo Nuevo del Bullaque.
Thu. _ Virgen de Peñitas (8–10 Sep), From here it is possible to
Beato Alonso de Orozco (19 Sep). make four-hour guided trips in
∑ oropesadetoledo.org Land Rovers, during which you
may spot wild boar, deer and
Oropesa’s medieval and imperial eagles. In the pasture-
Re naissance splendour as one lands stand chozos, conical
of Toledo’s satellite com munities refuges for shepherds.
has left a charming old quarter In the eastern foothills of the
at the centre of today’s small Montes de Toledo is Orgaz,
farming town. A circular Ruta with a parish church which
Monumental starts from the contains works by El Greco.
massive, mainly 15th-century Nearby villages, such as Los
castle on the top of the hill. A Yébenes and Ventas con Peña
Renaissance extension – thought Aguilera, are known for their
to be the work of Juan de Herrera, leather goods and restaurants
co-architect of El Escorial (see serving game. One of the so-called “devils” in
pp334–5) – was added to the On the plains stands the small La Endiablada fiesta
castle in the 16th century by the church of Santa María de Melque,
wealthy and influential Álvarez believed to date back to the Romería del Cristo del
Sahúco (Whit Monday, May/
family. Part of the castle has 8th century. Close by is the Jun), Peñas de San Pedro
been converted into a parador. Templar castle of Montalbán, a (Albacete). A cross-shaped
The Ruta Monumental con- vast but ruined 12th-century coffin bearing a figure of
tinues around the town, taking fortress. Nearer to Toledo, at Christ is carried 15 km (9 miles)
in a number of churches, con- Guadamur, there is another here from its shrine by men
vents, a small ceramics mu seum handsome castle. dressed in white.
and the town hall which presides La Caballada (Whit Sunday,
over the main square. early Jun), Atienza (Guadalajara).
Horsemen follow the route
Environs across country taken by
The area around Oropesa is the 12th-century muleteers
excellent for buying handicrafts. of Atienza, who are said to
Lagartera, just to the west of the have saved the boy King
town, is famous for the Alfonso VIII of Castile from
embroidery and lacework by his uncle, Fernando II.
the women in the village, and Corpus Christi (May/Jun),
Toledo. One of Spain’s most
El Puente del Arzobispo, 12 km dramatic Corpus Christi (see
(7 miles) south of Oropesa, is a p42) proces sions. The cathe-
good source of painted ceramics dral monstrance (see p396)
and esparto (grass-weaving) is paraded in the streets,
work. Ciudad de Vascos, further whose walls are adorned
southeast, is a ruined 10th- with 48 17th-century
century Arab city in splendid A chozo (shepherd’s cabin) in the Parque Flemish tapestries.
countryside around Azután. Nacional de Cabañeros



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392  CENTR AL SP AIN

r Street-by-Street: Toledo

Picturesquely sited on a hill above the River
Tagus is the historic centre of Toledo. Behind
the old walls lies much evidence of the city’s Puerta Cristo
rich history. The Romans built a fortress on the de la Luz
site of the present-day Alcázar. The Visigoths
made Toledo their capital in the 6th century AD,
and left behind several churches. In the Middle
Ages, Toledo was a melting pot of Christian,
Muslim and Jewish cultures, and it was during
this period that the city’s most outstanding
monument – its cathedral – was built. In the The Iglesia de San
Román, of Visigothic
16th century the painter El Greco came to live origin, now contains
in Toledo, and today the city is home to many a museum relating the
of his works. city’s past under
the Visigoths.
C A L L E D E L O S A L F I L E R I T O S


C A R D E N A L L O R E N Z A N A



C A L L E D E A L F O N S O X C A L L E D EL H O M B R E D E PA L O





C A L L E D E S A N R O M Á N
. Iglesia de Santo Tomé
This church, with a beautiful
Mudéjar tower, houses El Greco’s
masterpiece, The Burial of the C A L L E D E A L F O N S O X I I
Count of Orgaz (see p36). S I X T O R A M Ó N PA R R O

To Sinagoga de Santa A L L E D E L A T R I N I D A D
María la Blanca and
Monasterio de San Juan
C A L L E D E L C A R D E N A L C I S N E R O S
de los Reyes
C
To Sinagoga del Tránsito and
Casa-Museo de El Greco








Archbishop’s Palace
Spread over a large block, with 0 metres 100
façades on three streets, this
16th-century palace features an 0 yards 100
austere Renaissance design.
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp570–71 and pp595–7


392-393_EW_Spain.indd 392 26/09/17 11:02 am

T OLEDO  393

The Puerta Mezquita del Cristo
de Sol has a de la Luz VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
double Moorish This mosque, one of the
arch and city’s two remaining Practical Information
two towers. Muslim buildings, dates Toledo. * 84,000.
∑ toledo-turismo.com
from around AD 1000.
n Plaza del Consistorio 1, 925 25
40 30. ( Tue. _ Easter, Corpus
Christi (May/Jun), Virgen del
Sagrario (15 Aug). Iglesia de San
Román: Open Tue–Sun am. &
To Estación de Autobuses and
Estación de RENFE Transport
£ Paseo de la Rosa, 902 32 03
20. @ Avenida de Castilla-La
Mancha, 925 21 58 50.


C A L L E D E L O S A L F I L E R I T O S PLAZA
DE
ZOCODOVER
CALLE DEL COMERCIO C U E S TA D E C A R L O S V . Museo de Santa Cruz




C A L L E D EL H O M B R E D E PA L O The Plaza de Zocodover
The museum’s fine arts
collection includes
among its exhibits this
15th-century zodiac
tapestry from Flanders.

is named after the market
S I X T O R A M Ó N PA R R O which was held here in
Moorish times. It is still the
city’s main square, with
many cafés and shops.




C A L L E D E L C A R D E N A L C I S N E R O S






Key
Suggested route


. Cathedral
Built on the site of a Visigothic
cathedral and a mosque, this
impressive structure is one of the Alcázar
largest cathedrals in Christendom The National Army Museum is
(see pp396–7). The Flamboyant housed here. In the central
Gothic high-altar reredos (1504) is patio is a replica of the statue
the work of several artists. Carlos V y el Furor.
For keys to symbols see back flap


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394  CENTR AL SP AIN

























Toledo Cathedral rising above the rooftops of the medieval part of the city
Exploring Toledo E Museo de Santa Cruz Immaculate Conception (1613),
Toledo is easily reached from Calle Miguel de Cervantes 3. Tel 925 still in its original altarpiece.
Madrid by rail, bus or car, and 22 14 02. Open 10am–6:30pm Mon– Decorative arts on display
is then best explored on foot. Sat, 10am–2pm Sun. ∑ patrimonio include two typically Toledan
To visit all the main sights you historicoclm.es crafts: armour and damascened
need at least two days, but it This museum is housed in a swords, made by inlaying
is possible to walk around the 16th-century hospital founded blackened steel with gold wire.
medieval and Jewish quarters by Cardinal Mendoza. The Damascene work, such as plates
in a long morning. To avoid the building has some Renaissance and jewellery (as well as swords),
heavy crowds, go midweek and architectural features, including is still produced in the city.
stay for a night, when the city the main doorway, staircase and
is at its most atmospheric. cloister. The four main wings, R Iglesia de Santo Tomé
laid out in the shape of a Greek Plaza del Conde 4. Tel 925 25 60 98.
+ Alcázar cross, are dedicated to the fine Open daily. & ∑ santotome.org
Calle Unión s/n. Tel 925 23 88 00. arts. The collection is especially Visitors come here mainly for El
Open Thu–Tue. & (free Sun). 8 strong in medieval and Renais- Greco’s master piece, The Burial of
Charles V’s fortified palace sance tapestries, paintings and the Count of Orgaz (see p36). The
stands on the site of former sculptures. There are also works Count paid for much of the 14th-
Roman, Visigothic and Muslim by El Greco, including one of his century building that stands
fortresses. Its severe square last paintings, The Virgin of the today. The painting, commis-
profile suffered damage by sioned in his memory by a parish
fire three times before being priest, depicts the miraculous
al most completely destroyed appearance of St Augustine and
in 1936, when the Nationalists St Stephen at his burial, to raise
survived a 70-day siege by the his body to heaven. It has never
Republicans. Restoration fol- been moved from the setting
lowed the original plans and for which it was painted, nor
the siege headquarters have restored. Nevertheless, it is
been preserved as a monu- remarkable for its contrast of
ment to Nationalist heroism. glowing and sombre colours.
The former National Museo In the foreground, allegedly, are
del Ejército was transferred the artist and his son (both look-
from Madrid to this building, ing out), as well as Cervantes.
making the Alcázar the main The church is thought to date
army museum in Spain. back to the 11th century, and
The Borbón-Lorenzana its tower is a fine example of
Library (open to the public) Mudéjar architecture.
contains 100,000 books and Nearby is the Pastelería
manuscripts from the 16th The Virgin of the Immaculate Conception by Santo Tomé, a good place to
to 19th centuries. El Greco (1613) in the Museo de Santa Cruz buy locally made marzipan.
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp570–71 and pp595–7


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T OLEDO  395


P Sinagoga de Santa María E Museo del Greco
la Blanca Paseo del Tránsito. Tel 925 22 36 65.
Calle de los Reyes Católicos 4. Open Tue–Sun. Closed Mon, Sun pm.
Tel 925 22 72 57. Open daily. & (free Sat pm, Sun). 7
Closed 1 Jan, 25 Dec. & 7 ∑ museodelgreco.mcu.es
The oldest and largest of the This museum is located in the
city’s original synagogues, this heart of the Jewish quarter, in a
monument dates back to the house near to the one in which
12th–13th century. In 1405 it El Greco lived. It has a wide
was taken over as a church by collection of his works. Canvases
San Vincente Ferrer after the on display include View of Toledo,
expulsion of the Jews. Resto- a detailed depiction of the city
ration has returned it to its at the time, and the superb
original beauty – carved stone series Christ and the Apostles.
capitals and wall panels stand Underneath the museum, on
out against white horseshoe the ground floor, is a domestic
arches and plasterwork. In the Ornate ceiling in the Monasterio de San chapel with a fine Mudéjar
main chapel is a Plateresque Juan de los Reyes ceiling and a collection of art by
altar piece. In 1391 a massacre painters of the Toledan School.
of Jews took place on this site, R Monasterio de San Juan
a turning point after years of de los Reyes R Iglesia de Santiago
religious tolerance in the city. Calle de los Reyes Católicos 17. Tel 925 del Arrabal
22 38 02. Open daily. Closed 1 Jan, Calle Real del Arrabal. Tel 925 22 06
25 Dec. & 7 (ground floor only). 36. Open for mass.
∑ sanjuandelosreyes.org Close to the Puerta Antigua
A wonderful mixture of archi- de Bisagra, this is one of
tectural styles, this monastery Toledo’s most beautiful Mudéjar
was commissioned by the monuments. It can be easily
Catholic Monarchs in honour of identified by its tower, which
their victory at the battle of Toro dates from the 12th-century
in 1476 (see p361). It was originally Reconquest (see pp58–9). The
intended to be their burial place, church, which was built slightly
but they were actually laid to rest later, has a beautiful woodwork
in Granada (see p492). Largely the ceiling and an ornate Mudéjar
work of Juan Guas, the church’s pulpit, but only the exterior of
main Isabelline structure was the building can be visited.
com pleted in 1496. Although
Mudéjar arches in the Sinagoga de Santa it was badly damaged by P Puerta Antigua de Bisagra
María la Blanca Napoleon’s troops in 1808 (see When Alfonso VI conquered
p67), it has been restored to its Toledo in 1085, he entered it
P Sinagoga del Tránsito, original splendour with features through this gateway, along side
Museo Sefardí such as a Gothic cloister (1510), El Cid. It is the only gateway in
Calle Samuel Leví. Tel 925 22 36 65. which has a multicoloured the city to have kept its original
Open Tue–Sun (Sun am only). Mudéjar ceiling. Near to the 10th-century military architecture.
Closed public hols. & (free Sat pm church is a stretch of the Jew ish The huge towers are topped by
& Sun). ∑ museosefardi.mcu.es quarter’s original wall. a 12th-century Arab gatehouse.
The most elaborate Mudéjar
interior in the city is hidden El Greco
behind the humble façade of
this former syna gogue, built in Born in Crete in 1541, El
the 14th century by Samuel Ha- Greco (“the Greek”) came to
Leví, the Jewish treasurer to Pedro Toledo in 1577 to paint the
the Cruel. The interlaced frieze altarpiece in the convent of
of the lofty prayer hall fuses Santo Domingo el Antiguo.
Islamic, Gothic and He brew Enchanted by the city, he
geometric motifs below a stayed here, painting religious
portraits and altarpieces for
wonderful coffered ceiling. other churches. Although El
The synagogue houses a Greco was trained in Italy and
museum of Sephardi (Spanish influenced by masters such
Jewish) culture. The items on as Tintoretto, his works are
display date from both before closely identified with the
and after the Jews’ expulsion city where he settled. He Domenikos Theotocopoulos, better known
from Spain in the late 15th died in Toledo in 1614. as El Greco
century (see p61).




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396  CENTR AL SP AIN

Toledo Cathedral

The splendour of Toledo’s massive cathedral . Sacristy
reflects its history as the spiritual heart of the El Greco’s The
Church in Spain and the seat of the Primate of all Denuding of Christ,
Spain. The Mozarabic Mass, which dates back to above the marble
altar, was painted
Visigothic times, is still said here today. The present especially for the
cathedral was built on the site of a 7th-century cathedral. Also
church. Work began in 1226 and spanned three here are works by
centuries, until the completion of the last vaults in Titian, Van Dyck
and Goya.
1493. This long period of construction explains the
cathedral’s mixture of styles: pure French Gothic –
complete with flying buttresses – on the exterior;
with Spanish decorative styles, such as Mudéjar
and Plateresque work, used in the interior.












View of Toledo Cathedral
Dominating the city sky-
line is the Gothic tower
at the west end of the nave.
The best view of the cathe-
dral, and the city, is from
the parador (see p571).

KEY
1 The Puerta del Mollete, on the
west façade, is the main entrance
to the cathedral. From this door,
mollete, or soft bread, was
distributed to the poor.
2 The belfry in the tower contains
a heavy bell known as La Gorda (“the
Fat One”).
3 The Cloister, on two floors, was
built in the 14th century on the site
of the old Jewish market.
4 Capilla de Santiago
5 The Capilla de San Ildefonso
contains the superb Plateresque
tomb of Cardinal Alonso Carrillo
de Albornoz.
6 Puerta de los Leones Monstrance
In the Treasury is the
7 The Puerta del Perdón, or Door 16th-century Gothic
of Mercy, has a tympa num decorated silver and gold mon-
with religious characters. strance. It is carried
8 The Capilla Mozárabe has a through the streets of
beautiful Renaissance ironwork grille, Toledo during the
carved by Juan Francés in 1524. Corpus Christi cele-
brations (see p391).
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp570–71 and pp595–7


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T OLEDO  397


. Transparente VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
This Baroque
altarpiece of marble, Practical Information
jasper and bronze, Calle Cardenal Cisneros 1.
by Narciso Tomé, Tel 925 22 22 41.
is illuminated by ∑ catedralprimada.es
an ornate sky light. Open 10am–6:30pm daily
It stands out (from 2pm Sun), last entry 1 hr
from the mainly before closing.
Gothic interior. 5 8am, 10am, 10:30am, 5:30pm,
6:30pm Mon–Sat, 8am, 9am,
11am, noon, 1pm, 5:30pm,
6:30pm Sun (Catholic); 9am Mon–
Sat, 9:45am Sun (Mozarabic).
Choir, Treasury, Sacristy and
Chapter house: Open as above.
& ^ 7 9.










Chapterhouse
Above 16th-century frescoes
by Juan de Borgoña is this
multicoloured Mudéjar ceiling,
unique in the city.
















. High Altar Reredos
Entrance via Puerta Llana The polychrome reredos, one of the
most beautiful in Spain, depicts
scenes from Christ’s life.







. Choir
The carvings on the wooden lower
stalls depict scenes of the fall of
Granada. The alabaster upper ones
show figures from the Old Testament.




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398  CENTR AL SP AIN















Windmills on the ridge above Consuegra, overlooking the plains of La Mancha
t Tembleque u Campo de the birthplace of Dulcinea, Don
Toledo. * 2,300. n Plaza Mayor 1, Criptana Quixote’s sweetheart. The Casa
925 14 55 53. ( Wed. _ Jesús de Ciudad Real. * 14,800. £ n Calle de Dulcinea, the home of Doña
Nazareno (23–27 Aug). Rocinante 39, 926 56 22 31 (closed Ana Martínez Zarco, on whom
∑ turismocastillalamancha.es Mon & Sun pm). ( Tue. _ Virgen Dulcinea was allegedly based,
de Crip tana (Easter Mon), Cristos de has been refurbished in its
The stone Plaza Mayor (see p31) Villejos (first Thu in Aug), Ferias (23–28 original 16th-century style.
at Tembleque dates from the Aug). ∑ campodecriptana.es The French army allegedly
17th century. It is decorated refused to attack the
with the red cross of the Knights Ten windmills stand on a village during the War of
Hospitallers, the military order hillcrest in the town. Three are In dependence (see pp66–7).
which once ruled the town. 16th-century and have their
original machinery intact. One P Casa de Dulcinea
Environs is the tourist information office, Tel 925 19 72 88. Open Tue–Sun.
Ocaña, 30 km (20 miles) north and three others are museums. & (free Sat & Sun). 7
of Tembleque, centres on the
huge yet elegant, late 18th- Environs
century plaza mayor, one of the More windmills stand above o Belmonte
largest town squares in Spain, Alcázar de San Juan and Mota Cuenca. * 2,200. @ n Avenida
after Madrid and Salamanca. del Cuervo, a good place to buy Luis Pinedo, 627 406 680. ( Mon.
queso manchego, local sheep’s _ San Bartolomé (24 Aug), Virgen
cheese (see p343). de Gracia (Sep). ∑ turismocastilla
y Consuegra lamancha.es
Toledo. * 11,000. @ n Avenida i El Toboso
Castilla-La Mancha, 925 59 31 18. Belmonte’s magnificent
( Sat. _ Consuegra Medieval Toledo. * 2,200. n Calle Daoíz y 15th-century castle (see p348)
(mid-Aug), La Rosa de Azafrán (last Velarde s/n, 925 56 82 26 (closed is one of the best preserved in
weekend Oct). Mon). ( Wed. _ Carnival (17–20 the region. It was built by Juan
Jan), Cervantes Day (23 Apr), San Pacheco, Marquis of Villena,
Consuegra’s 11 windmills (see Agustín (27–30 Aug). ∑ eltoboso.es after Enrique IV gave him the
p31) and restored castle stand town in 1456. Inside it has dec-
on a ridge, overlooking the Of all the villages of La Mancha orative carved coffered ceilings,
plains of La Mancha. One wind- claiming links to Don Quixote, and Mudéjar plaster work. The
mill is set in motion every year El Toboso has the clearest ties. collegiate church is especially
during the town’s festival to It was chosen by Cervantes as remarkable for its richly
celebrate the autumn harvest
of saffron (see p342). During the
fiesta, pickers compete to see
who can strip petals from the
saffron crocus the fastest.
Environs
About 4 km (2 miles) from
Consuegra, on the road to
Urda, is a Roman dam. An old
restaurant at Puerto Lápice, off
the A4 20 km (13 miles) south
of Consuegra, claims to be the
inn in which Don Quixote was
“knighted” by the landlord. Belmonte’s splendid 15th-century castle
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp570–71 and pp595–7


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