(DK Eyewitness) Travel Guide - Spain

V ALENCIA AND MURCIA  249
La Poble de
La Balma Benifassá
Forcall La Sènia
MORELLA
Mirambel Barcelona
Sant
Cantavieja EL MAESTRAT Mateu Vinaròs
Ares del
Maestre Benicarló
Villafranca del Cid
Albocácer
PENÍSCOLA
Peñagolosa Alcossebre
1813m Cabanes
Torreblanca
VILLAFAMÉS Oropesa
Zaragoza
Alcora Benicàssim
ONDA CASTELLÓ C O S TA DEL AZAHA R
DE LA PLANA
Viver
Aras de Alpuente La Val
Alpuente d'Uxio Burriana
Segorbe COVES DE SANT JOSEP
A L T O T U R I A Pucol SAGUNT
Chelva Casinos
Utiel Turia Llíria MONASTERIO Lemon groves outside Dénia
DE EL PUIG
Madrid Requena Paterna
VALENCIA
Torrente Sights at a Glance
Buñol Catarroja
Magro
L'ALBUFERA
Cabriel
Júcar 1 El Maestrat i Penyal d’Ifac
Cortes de Pallas P A Í S Alginet 2 Morella o Guadalest
Cofrentes Sueca 3 Peníscola
VA L E N C I A N O Cullera p Alcoi
Alzira 4 Costa del Azahar a Benidorm
Alberic 5 Vilafamés s Novelda
Ayora Tavernes de 6 Castelló de la Plana d Alicante (Alacant)
la Valldigna
Enguera 7 Onda
XÀTIVA GANDIA f Illa de Tabarca
Madrid, Oliva 8 Coves de Sant Josep g Elx (Elche)
Albacete 9 Alto Turia h Orihuela
Ontinyent DÉNIA
Pego 0 Sagunt j Torrevieja
Agres XÀBIA q Monasterio de El Puig k Murcia
Bocairent
ALCOI GUADALEST Calp w Valencia pp254–7 l Mar Menor
e L’Albufera
Callosa
Yecla Villena Ibi d'en Sarrià Altea PENYAL D'IFACH r Xàtiva z Cartagena
x Costa Cálida
Sax Xixona BENIDORM t Gandia c Lorca
Jumilla La Vila Joíosa y Dénia v Caravaca de la Cruz
Elda u Xàbia
El Campello
NOVELDA C o s t a B l a n c a
Albacete ALICANTE
Aspe (ALACANT)
Segura Cieza Crevillente ELX (ELCHE)
Moratalla
Calasparra Fortuna Santa Pola
ILLA DE TABARCA
CARAVACA DE Cehegín Archena
LA CRUZ ORIHUELA Guardamar del Segura
Molina de
Mula Segura
El Moral Alcantarilla MURCIA TORREVIEJA
M U R C I A San Pedro
del Pinatar
Alhama de Murcia Corvera
San Javier
Totana Torre Pacheco MAR MENOR
Luchena
Guadalentín
LORCA La Unión
Mazarrón CARTAGENA
Granada
Puerto Puerto de Mazarrón 0 kilometres 25
Lumbreras Cabo Tiñoso
Almeira 0 miles 20
Águilas COSTA CÁLIDA One of the many coves on Xàbia’s rugged coast
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250  EASTERN SP AIN

























The unbroken medieval wall surrounding the historic hilltop town of Morella in El Maestrat
1 El Maestrat square. To the south, the village of streets and steep, tapering
of Ares del Maestre is spec tac- alleys, many of which are
Castellón & Teruel. @ Morella.
n Calle Mayor 15, Cantavieja, 964 18 ularly sited beneath a 1,318-m- shaded by the eaves of ancient
54 14. ∑ comarcamaestrazgo.es (4,300-ft-) high rock. houses. The main street is
Cantavieja is the main town lined with shady porticoes.
Crusading warlords of the in the Aragonese part of El In the upper part of town is
Knights Templar and the Knights Maestrat (where it is known the Basílica de Santa María la
of Montesa – known as maestres as El Maestrazgo). It has a pretty Mayor. Its unique raised choir
(masters) – gave their name arcaded square. The walled loft is reached by a finely
to this lonely up land region. To village of Mirambel, nearby, carved spiral staircase.
rule over this frontier land, which has been restored to its
straddles the border between medieval condition.
Valencia and Aragón, they built There are several spooky but
fortified settlements in dramatic fascinating shrines to the Virgin
defen sive positions, often on in El Maestrat, notably the cave
rocky crags. The best preserved of La Balma at Zorita, which
of them is Morella, the principal is reached via a rocky ledge.
town. Forcall, not far from The scenery in most parts is
Morella, has two 16th-century striking: fertile valleys alternate
mansions on its porticoed with breathtaking cliffs and
bare, flat-topped mountains
overflown by eagles and vul-
tures. Tourism is developing
very slowly here: there are few Morella’s Miracle
places to stay and the roads A plaque on the wall of
can be windy and slow. Morella’s Calle de la Virgen
marks the house in which
2 Morella St Vincent Ferrer is said to have
performed a bizarre miracle
Castellón. * 2,600. @ n Plaza de in the early 15th century.
San Miguel, 964 17 30 32. ( Sun. A housewife, dis traught at
_ Fiestas Patronales (mid–late Aug). having no meat to offer the
∑ morellaturistica.com saint, cut up her son and put
him in the cooking pot. When
Built on a high, isolated outcrop St Vincent discovered this, he
and crowned by a ruined reconstituted the boy – except
castle, Morella cuts a dramatic for one of his little fingers, which
profile. Its unbroken medieval his mother had eaten to see if
The Torre de la Sacristía, in the restored walls retain six gates, which the dish was sufficiently salted.
village of Mirambel lead into a fan-shaped maze
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp567–8 and p591


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V ALENCIA AND MURCIA  251

3 Peníscola 4 Costa del Azahar
Castellón. * 7,000. @ n Paseo Castellón. £ Castelló de la Plana.
Marítimo, 964 48 02 08. ( Mon. @ Castelló de la Plana. n Plaza de la
_ Fiestas Patronales (2nd week Sep). Hierba s/n, Castelló de la Plana, 964 35
∑ peniscola.es 86 88. ∑ turismodecastellon.com
The fortified Old Town of The “Orange Blossom Coast”
Peníscola clusters around the of Castellón province is named
base of a castle built on a rocky after the dense citrus groves of
promontory, surrounded on the coastal plain. The three
three sides by the sea. This principal resorts are Oropesa,
labyrinth of narrow winding Peníscola and Benicàssim, Castelló de la Plana’s planetarium, close to
streets and white houses is where handsome old villas the beach
enclosed by massive ramparts. stand beside modern hotels
These are entered by either the and other tourist amenities. 6 Castelló de la
Fosch Gate – reached by a ramp Alcossebre also has a popular Plana
from the Plaza del Caudillo – or beach. Vinaròs – the most
through the San Pedro Gate, northerly point – and Benicarló Castellón. * 180,000. £ @ n Plaza
from the harbour. Some visitors are key fishing ports supply ing de la Hierba s/n, 964 35 86 88. ( Mon.
are drawn to the town because prawns and date mussels to _ Fiesta de la Magdalena (3rd Sun of
Lent). ∑ castellonturismo.com
the 1961 Hollywood blockbuster local restaurants.
El Cid was filmed there.
The Castell del Papa Luna Originally founded on high
was built on the foundations of ground inland, the capital
an Arab fortress in the late 13th of Castellón province was
century by the Knights Templar. relocated nearer to the coast
Their cross is carved above in the 13th century.
the door. It later became the The city centre, the Plaza
residence of the papal pretender Mayor, is bordered by the
Pedro de Luna, cardinal of market, the cathedral, the town
Aragón. He was elect ed Pope hall and El Fadrí, a 58-m- (190-ft-)
Benedict XIII during the Great high octagonal bell tower begun
Schism that split the Catholic in 1590 and finished in 1604.
Church at the end of the 14th The Museo de Bellas Artes
century. Although he was contains a col lection of artifacts
deposed by the Council of dating from the middle Palaeo-
Constance in 1414, he continued lithic era, paintings from the
to proclaim his right to the 14th to the 19th centuries
papacy until his death as a and modern ceramics from
nonagenarian in 1423. the region. Most of the older
Sculpture in the Casa del Batlle works come from the nearby
+ Castell del Papa Luna convents, because the govern-
Calle Castillo. Tel 964 48 00 21. 5 Vilafamés ment seized many church
Open daily. Closed 1 & 6 Jan, 9 Sep, possessions in the 19th century.
9 Oct, 25 Dec. & 8 Castellón. * 2,000. @ n Plaza del An important collec tion of paint-
Ayuntamiento 2, 964 32 99 70. ( Fri.
_ San Miguel (late Mar), Patronales ings attributed to Francisco de
(mid-Aug). Zurbarán is also on display here.
In El Planetari there are
This medieval town climbs from demonstrations of the night sky,
a plain along a rocky ridge to the the solar system and the nearest
restored round keep of its castle. stars, plus temporary exhibits.
The older, upper part of the town
is a warren of sloping streets. E Museo de Bellas Artes
A 15th-century mansion Avda Hermanos Bou 28. Tel 964 72
houses the Museo de Arte 75 00. Open 10am–2pm & 4–8pm
Contemporáneo de Vilafamés. Tue–Sat, 10am–2pm Sun. 8 by
The artworks on display date appt. 7 =
from 1959 to the present. P El Planetari
Paseo Marítimo 1, Grao. Tel 964 28 29
E Museo de Arte 68. Open Oct–Jun: 9:30am–2:45pm
Contemporáneo de Vilafamés Tue–Fri; 10:30am–2pm & 4:30–8pm Sat;
Casa del Batlle, Calle Diputación 20. 10:30am–2pm Sun (Mar–Jun & Oct: also
Sunset view of the beach and old town Tel 964 32 91 52. Open Tue–Sun. & 4:30–8pm Tue–Fri); Jul–Sep: 9:30am–
of Peníscola ∑ macvac.vilafames.es 2:30pm & 4:30–9pm daily. & 7




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7 Onda as well. The town is overlooked
by the Pico del Remedio
Castellón. * 25,700. @ n Calle
Ceramista Peyró, 964 60 28 55. (1,054 m/3,458 ft), from the
( Thu. _ Feria del Santísimo summit of which there is a fine
Salvador (5 & 6 Aug). ∑ onda.es panoramic view of the region. In
a valley near Chelva, at the end
Onda, home to a thriving of an unsurfaced but drivable
ceramics industry, is over looked track, are the remains of a Roman
by a ruined castle, which was aqueduct, Peña Cortada.
known to its Moorish founders The most attractive and
as the “Castle of the Three inter esting village in Alto Turia is
Hundred Towers”. The castle Alpuente, situated above a dry
houses a museum of local history. gorge. Between 1031 and 1089,
However, the main reason when it was captured by El Cid
to visit Onda is to take a look (see p374), Alpuente was the
at the Museo de Ciencias Boat ride through the winding Coves de capital of a small taifa, a Moorish
Naturales El Carmen, a natural Sant Josep kingdom. In the 14th century
history museum belonging to it was still important enough
a Carmelite monastery. 8 Coves de Sant for the kingdom of Valencia’s
The collection was begun in Josep parliament to meet here. The
1952 by the monks for their own town hall is confin ed to a small
private scientific study. It was Vall d’Uixó, Castellón. Tel 964 69 05 76. tower over a 14th­century
opened to the public a decade @ Vall d’Uixó. Open daily. Closed 1 & gateway, which was later
later. The clever use of subdued 6 Jan, 25 Dec. & 8 compulsory. extended in the 16th century
∑ riosubterraneo.com
lighting lends dramatic effect to by the addition of a rectangular
the 10,000 plant and animal council chamber.
specimens which are exhibited The caves of St Joseph were first Requena, to the south is
over three floors. Objects include explored in 1902. The subterr­ Valencia’s main wine town.
large stuffed animals placed in anean river that formed them Further south, Valencia’s other
naturalistic settings, butterflies and that still flows through principal river, the Xúquer
and other insects, shells, fossils, them, has been chart ed for (Júcar), carves tremendous
minerals and grisly, preserved almost 3 km (2 miles). However, gorges near Cortes de Pallas
anatomical specimens. only part of this distance can be on its way past the Muela de
explored on a visit. Cortes. This massive, wild
E Museo de Ciencias Naturales Boats take visitors along the plateau and nature reserve is
El Carmen serpentine course of the river. crossed by one small road and
Carretera de Tales. Tel 964 60 07 30. You may have to duck to avoid a lonely dirt track.
Open daily (winter: Fri–Sun only). See projections of rock on the way.
website for details. Closed 20 Dec–7 Sometimes the narrow caves
Jan. & museodelcarmen.com open out into large chambers La Tomatina
such as the Sala de los Murcié­ The highpoint of the annual
lagos (Hall of the Bats – the bats fiesta in Buñol (Valencia) is a
left when the floodlights were sticky food fight on the last
installed). The water is at its Wednesday of August, which
deepest – 12 m (39 ft) – in the attracts thousands of visitors
Lago Azul (Blue Lake). You can dressed in their worst clothes.
explore a further 250 m (820 ft) Lorry loads of ripe tomatoes are
along the Galería Seca (Dry provided by the town council at
11am for participants to hurl at
Gallery) on foot. The caves are each other. No one in range
often closed after heavy rain. of the combatants is spared:
foreigners and photographers
9 Alto Turia are prized targets.
The battle originated in
Valencia. @ Chelva. n Plaza Mayor 1, 1944. Some say it began
Chelva, 96 210 01 65. with a fight between friends.
Others say irreverent locals
The attractive wooded hills of pelted civic dignitaries with
the upper reaches of the Río tomatoes during a procession.
Turia in Valencia (Alto Turia) are Increasing national and
popular with hikers and day­ international press coverage
trippers. Chelva, the main town, means that more people
has an unusual clock on its attend, and more tomatoes
Two butterfly exhibits in the church, which shows not only are thrown, every year.
Museo El Carmen the hour but the day and month
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp567–8 and p591


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(Source v2.1)
Date 5th December 2012
Size 125mm x 217mm

V ALENCIA AND MURCIA  253


Carthaginians, the Romans
and the Moors. The ruins of
the castle are di vided into
seven divisions, the highest
being La Ciudadella, and the
most important Armas.
+ Castillo de Sagunt
Open Tue–Sun. Tel 962 66 62 01.

q Monasterio de
El Puig
Sagunt’s ruined fortifications, added to by successive rulers of the town
El Puig, Valencia. Tel 961 47 02 00.
0 Sagunt the Carthaginians, which ended £ @ El Puig. Open Tue–Sat. &
8 only, 10am, 11am, noon, 4pm,
with Rome’s occupation of the
Valencia. * 66,000. £ @ n Plaza 5pm. ∑ monasteriodelpuig.es.tl
Cronista Chabret, 962 65 58 59. ( peninsula (see pp54–5).
Wed. _ Fallas (15–19 Mar), Fiestas The town still contains This Mercedarian monastery
(Jul–Aug). ∑ turismo.sagunto.es sev eral reminders of the Roman was founded by King Jaime I
occu pation, including the 1st- of Aragón, who conquered
Sited near the junction of two century-AD Roman theatre. Built Valencia from the Moors in the
Roman roads, Sagunt (Sagunto) out of limestone in a natural 13th century. The monastery is
played a crucial role in Spain’s depression on the hill side above now home to a collection of
ancient history. the town, it has been controver- paintings from between the
In 219 BC, Hannibal, the sially restored using modern 16th and 18th centuries and
Carthaginian commander in materials. The theatre is now used the Museo de la Imprenta y de
southern Spain, stormed and as a venue for music, plays and la Obra Gráfica (Museum of
sacked Rome’s ally Saguntum. Sagunt’s annual theatre festival. Printing and Graphic Art).
All the inhabitants of the town The ruins of the castle, The museum commemorates
were said to have died in sprawling along the crest of the printing of the first book in
the assault, the last throwing the hill above the modern-day Spain – thought to have been in
them selves on to bonfires town, mark the original site of Valencia in 1474 – and illustrates
rather than fall into the Saguntum. Superim posed on the develop ment of the printing
hands of Hannibal’s troops. each other are the excavated press. Exhibits include printers’
The inci dent sparked off the remains of various civilisations, blocks and a copy of the smallest
Second Punic War, a disaster for including the Iberians, the printed book in the world.

























Revellers throwing tomatoes at each other in the annual fiesta of La Tomatina





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w Valencia an enclosed stone patio from
which two staircases ascend
Spain’s third-largest city is sited in the middle of the huerta: to splendidly decorated rooms.
a fertile plain of orange groves and market gardens, which is The larger of the two Salas
one of Europe’s most intensively farmed regions. With its warm Doradas (Golden Chambers),
coastal climate, Valencia is known for its exuberant outdoor on the mezzanine level, has a
multicoloured coffered ceiling
living and nightlife. In March the city stages one of Spain’s most and tiled floor. The walls of the
spectacular fiestas, Las Fallas (see p259), in which giant papier- parliament chamber are
mâché sculptures are burned in the streets. Modern Valencia decorated with frescoes.
is a centre for trade and manufacturing, notably ceramics.
A ferry service connects the city with the Balearic Islands. R Basílica de la Virgen de
los Desamparados
Plaza de la Virgen. Tel 963 91 92 14.
Open 11am–2pm & 5–8pm Mon–Thu;
10:30am–2pm Sun & public hols.
The statue of Valencia’s patron-
ess, the Virgin of the Helpless,
stands above an altar in this
17th-century church, lavishly
adorned with flowers and
candles. She is honoured during
Las Fallas by La Ofrenda (“the
Offering”), a display of flowers in
the square outside the church.

R Cathedral
Plaza de la Reina. Tel 963 91 81 27.
Open 10am–6:30pm Mon–Sat, 2–
6:30pm Sun & public hols (Nov–19 Mar:
10am–5:30pm Mon–Sat). & includes
entry to the museum. Museo: Open as
above. Miguelete: Open daily. & 8
Built originally in 1262, the
cathedral has been added to
over the ages, and its three
doorways are all in different
styles. The oldest is the
Ro manesque Puerta del Palau,
but the main entrance is the
18th-century Baroque portal,
the Puerta de los Hierros.
A unique court meets on
Flowers in honour of Valencia’s patroness, Virgen de los Desamparados Thursdays at noon in front of
the Gothic Puerta de los Após-
Exploring Valencia buildings in Valencia were built toles. For about 1,000 years,
Valencia stands on the course during its economic and cultural
of the Río Turia. The city centre heyday in the 14th and 15th
and the crumbling old quarter centuries: the Torres de Serranos,
of El Carmen are on the right a gateway that survived the
bank. Most of the monuments demo lition of the medieval
are within walk ing distance of walls in the 19th century, La
the Plaza del Ayuntamiento, the Lonja and the cathedral.
triangular main square, which is
presid ed over by the town hall. P Palau de la Generalitat
The city was founded by the Plaza de Manises. Tel 963 86 34 61.
Romans in 138 BC and later Open 9am–2pm Mon–Fri and by
conquered by the Moors. It was appt only.
captured by El Cid (see p374) in This palace, which is now used
1096, retaken by the Moors, and by the Valencian regional
finally recaptured by Jaime I, the government, was built in Gothic
Conqueror, in 1238, to become style between 1482 and 1579
absorbed into the kingdom of but added to in the 17th and The Miguelete, the cathedral’s bell tower on
Aragón. The three finest 20th centuries. It surrounds Plaza de la Reina
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp567–8 and p591


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V ALENCIA  255


the Water Tribunal has settled VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
dis putes between farmers over
irrigation in the huerta. Practical Information
Inside the cathedral, a chapel Valencia. * 786,400. n Plaza
holds an agate cup, claimed to del Ayuntamiento 1, 963 52 49 08.
be the Holy Grail and formerly ( Mon–Sat. _ Las Fallas (15–
kept in the San Juan de la Peña 19 Mar). ∑ visitvalencia.com
(see p238). Behind the main altar Transport
are some 15th-century frescoes. k 8 km (5 miles) SW. £ Calle
The cathedral’s bell tower, the Játiva 24, 902 320 320. @ Avda
Miguelete, is Valencia’s main Menéndez Pidal 13, 963 46 62 66.
landmark and popular for the g 963 93 95 00.
views it offers from the top. The Ornate toilet sign outside Valencia’s
cathedral also houses a museum. Mercado Central
by Ignacio Vergara. The exhibits
P La Lonja parrot and swordfish weather- include prehistoric, Greek and
Plaza del Mercado. Tel 962 08 41 53. vanes, opened in 1928 and is Roman ceramics and pieces
Open Tue–Sun (daily mid-Mar–mid- one of the largest and most by Picasso.
Oct). & attractive markets in Europe.
An exquisite Late Gothic hall, Every morning its 350 or so R Colegio del Patriarca
built between 1482 and 1498 stalls are filled with a bewil- Calle Nave 1. Tel 692 49 17 69. Open
as a commodities exchange, dering variety of food. Mon–Sat. Closed Aug. & 8 10am,
La Lonja now hosts cultural 11am, noon, 12:30pm, 5pm & 6pm
events. The outside walls are E Museo Nacional de (compulsory).
decorated with gargoyles and Cerámica Gonzalez Martí This seminary was built in
other grotesque figures. The Poeta Querol 2. Tel 963 08 54 29. 1584. The walls and ceiling
ceiling of the transactions hall Open Tue–Sun. Closed 1, 6 & 22 Jan, of the church are covered
features star-patterned vaulting, 1 May, 24, 25 & 31 Dec. & (free with frescoes by Bartolomé
supported by spiral columns. Sat pm & Sun). 7 Matarana. During Friday
Spain’s Ceramics Museum is morning Mass, the painting
( Mercado Central housed in the mansion of above the altar, The Last Supper
Plaza del Mercado 6. Tel 963 82 91 00. Marqués de Dos Aguas, an by Francisco Ribalta, is lowered
Open 7am–3pm Mon–Sat. 18th-century fantasy of to reveal a sculpture of the
This huge iron, glass and tile coloured plasterwork. The Crucifixion by an anonymous
Art Nouveau building, with its doorway is edged by a carving 15th-century German artist.

Valencia City Centre C AL LE DE Jardines GU A DA LAVIAR Pont
Puente
S. José
1 Palau de la Generalitat M. GAUILLEN PORTAL de Fusta Real Monasterio
PLAZA del Río Turia
2 Basílica de la Virgen de Estación de Autobuses NUEVO BLANQ UER ÍA S Puente de la Trinidad
de Serranos
los Desamparados 200m (220 yards) Museo-Casa Museo de
PLAZA DE
3 Cathedral C NA JORDANA Benlliure LOS FUEROS Puente Bellas Artes Jardines
Reales
Instituto Valenciano
4 La Lonja de Arte Moderno (IVAM) PLAZA DEL Trinidad CASTELLÓN
CARMEN
5 Mercado Central C DE RÌPALDA Torres de Jardines DE LA PLANA
Serranos
6 Museo Nacional de Cultural la C CORONA CA LLE PLAZA SAN P I NTOR L ÓPE Z
del Río Turia
Centre
Cerámica Gonzalez Martí Beneficència A LTA Palau de la LORENZO del Real
Puente
Generalitat
7 Colegio del Patriarca Torres PL. VICENTE C CABALLEROS PLAZA Basílica de Palacio Monasterio
IBORRA
DE LA
CALLE DE QUART PLAZA
8 Jardines del Río Turia de Quart TOSSAL San VIRGEN la Virgen de del Temple
los Desamparados
9 Museo de Bellas Artes Nicolás Cathedral
C M U RI LL O CIUDADELA
Santo
0 Torres de Serranos Museo de Historia Santos La PLAZA Domingo
de Valencia
DE LA
PASEO DE LA
q Instituto Valenciano de PLAZA Juanes Lonja REINA PLAZA DE
TETUÁN
PLAZA
SANTA
Arte Moderno (IVAM) URSULA C CARNICEROS REDONDA C AL LE DEL MA R
w Estación del Norte Mercado C A L L E D E L A PA Z
CALLE DE MEL D ONADO
Aeropuerto Central Colegio PLAZA
PORTA
del Patriarca
AVE. M. CRISTINA
8 km (5 miles) Museo DEL MAR
PLAZA
MADRID Cerámica PATRIARCA Palacio Puerto,
C PINTOR de Justicia
SOROLLO
CALLE DEL H OSPITAL AVD A. BARÓN DE CARCER CA L LE SAN VIC EN TE MÁ R TI R PLAZA DEL C DON JUAN DE Colón i de les Ciències
Ciutat de les Arts
AUSTRIA
AYUNTA-
MIENTO
Ayunta-
miento AVDA. M ARQUÉS DE SOTELO Nacional de CALLE CO L ÓN
GUI L LÉ N D E C A ST R O San
0 metres 250 Agustín PL. SAN Xàtiva
CALLE BARCAS PASCUAL Y GENIS
AGUSTÍN
XÀT IVA
0 yards 250 ALICANTE
Plaza
For keys to symbols see back flap Estación de Toros
del Norte
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256  EASTERN SP AIN


+ Torres de Serranos
Plaza de los Fueros. Tel 963 91 90 70.
Open 9:30am–7pm daily (to 3pm
Sun). Closed 1 Jan, 1 May, 25 Dec.
& (free Sun).
Erected in 1391 as a triumphal
arch in the city’s walls, this
gateway combines defensive
and decorative features. Its two
towers combine battlements
and delicate Gothic tracery.

E Instituto Valenciano
de Arte Moderno (IVAM)
Calle Guillem de Castro 118. Tel 963
The Palau de la Música, Valencia’s prestigious concert hall 17 66 00. Open 11am–7:30pm Tue–
Sun. & (free Sun). 8 by appt. -
Beyond the Centre Túria River’s original landscape, = 7 ∑ ivam.es
The centre of the city is bor dered with a lake, beach, waterwheel, The Valencian Institute of
by the Gran Vía Marqués del Túria waterfall and riverside wood. Modern Art is one of Spain’s
and the Gran Vía Ramón y Cajal. The best of Valencia’s other most highly respected spaces
Beyond these lie the 19th-century public gardens stand near the for displaying contemporary
suburbs laid out on a grid plan. banks of the river. The largest art. The core of its permanent
The best way to get around of them, the Jardines del Real – collection is formed of work by
beyond the centre is by the known locally as Los Viveros – the 20th-century sculptor Julio
metro, one line of which is a occupy the site of a royal palace Gonzalez. All art forms are
tramway to the beaches of which was torn down in the represented in its temporary
El Cabañal and La Malvarrosa. Peninsular War. The Jardín exhibitions, with emphasis on
The port area, redeveloped Botánico, created in 1802, photography and photomon-
for the 2007 America’s Cup, is planted with 7,000 species tage. One of the eight galleries,
is full of bars and restaurants. of shrubs and trees. Sala Muralles, incorporates a
stretch of the old city walls.
Y Jardines del Río Túria E Museo de Bellas Artes
Where once there was a river Calle San Pío V 9. Tel 963 87 03 00.
there is now a 10-km- (6-mile-) Open 10am–8pm Tue–Sun. Closed 1
long strip of gardens, sports fields Jan, Good Fri, 25 Dec. 7 8 by appt.
and playgrounds crossed by 19 An important collection of
bridges. In a prominent position 2,000 paintings and statues
above the riverbed stands the dating from the 14th to the
Palau de la Música, a concert 19th centuries is housed in this
hall built in the 1980s. The former seminary, which was
centrepiece of the nearby built between 1683 and 1744.
children’s playground is the Valencian art dating from
giant figure of Gulliver pinned the 14th and 15th centuries
to the ground and covered is represented by a series of
with steps and slides. Jardín de golden altarpieces by Alcanyis,
Cabecera aims to recreate the Pere Nicolau and Maestro de
Bonastre. Velázquez’s self- Art Nouveau-style column in the
portrait and works by Bosch, Estación del Norte
El Greco, Murillo, Ribalta, Van
Dyck and the local Renaissance P Estación del Norte
painter Juan de Juanes hang Calle Xátiva 24. Tel 902 32 03 20
on the first floor. On the top (RENFE). Open daily.
floor there are six paintings by Valencia’s local railway station
Goya and others by important was built from 1906 to 1917
19th- and 20th-century in a style inspired by Austrian
Valencian artists: Ignacio Art Nouveau. The exterior is
Pinazo, Joaquín Sorolla and decorated with orange and
Antonio Muñoz Degrain. A orange-blossom flower motifs,
large collection of the latter’s while, inside, ceramic murals
hallucinatory coloured paint ings and stained glass in the foyer
are gathered together in one and cafeteria depict the life
A light-filled room in Valencia’s Museo de room, among them the and crops of the huerta and
Bellas Artes disturbing Amor de Madre. L’Albufera (see p258).
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp567–8 and p591


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V ALENCIA  257























The hemispherical IMAX cinema at the Ciutat de les Arts i de les Ciències
E Ciutat de les Arts E Museo de Historia 2 km (1 mile) long. Although
i de les Ciències de Valencia these two former fishermen’s
Avenida Autovia del Saler 1–7. Tel 961 Carrer Valencia 42, Mislata. Tel 963 70 districts were care lessly
97 46 86. Museum Open 10am–6pm 11 05. Open Tue–Sun. & (free Sat & developed in the 1960s and
or 7pm daily (to 9pm 1 Jul–15 Sep). Sun). 7 ∑ mhv.valencia.es 1970s, they retain some quaint,
& 0 - = 7 ∑ cac.es Valencia’s history museum is traditional houses tiled on the
The futuristic complex of the housed in the 19th-century outside to keep them cool in
City of Arts and Sciences stands cistern that used to supply summer. The light of La
at the seaward end of the Río the city with water, now an Malvarrosa inspired the
Túria gardens. It is made up atmospheric labyrinth of pillars Impressionist painter Joaquín
of five stunning buildings, four and arches. The displays tell the Sorolla (see p309). The Paseo de
of them designed by Valencian story of the city’s development, Neptuno, near the port, is lined
architect Santiago Calatrava. from its foundations by the with restaurants, many of which
The Palau de les Arts, the Romans to the present day. specialize in paella. The revamped
final building to be added to In each section there is a “time port district and marina also
the complex, has a concert hall machine”, a full-sized screen feature many modern hotels.
with four performance spaces on which a typical scene of
including an open-air theatre. daily life is reproduced in the Environs
On the other side of the Puente language of the visitor’s choice. The farmed plain of the huerta
de Monteolivete is L’Hermisfèric, is a maze of fields planted with
an architectural pun by Calatrava El Cabañal and La artichokes and chufas, the raw
on the theme of vision, consisting Malvarrosa Beaches ingre dient of horchata.
of a blinking eye. The “eyeball” is To the east of the city, the Manises, near the airport, is
an auditorium equipped as an beaches of El Cabañal and La famous for its ceramics, which
IMAX cinema and planetarium. Malvarrosa are bordered by a are sold in shops and factories.
Next to this is the Museu de broad and lively esplanade about There is also a ceramics museum.
les Ciències Príncipe Felipe, a
science museum contained Horchata, Valencia’s Speciality
within a structure of glass and
gleaming white steel arches. In summer, the bars and cafés of Valencia
The displays inside are mainly offer a thirst-quenching drink unique to the
geared towards visiting school area. Horchata, a sweet, milky drink produced
parties. Opposite the museum mainly in the nearby town of Alboraia, is
is L’Umbracle, a giant pergola made from chufas (earth almonds). It is
of parabolic arches covering served semi-frozen or in liquid form and
the complex’s car park. usually eaten with fartons – soft, sweet
breadsticks – or rosquilletas – crunchy biscuit
The last part of the “city” is sticks. The oldest horchatería in the city centre
an aquarium, the Oceanografic, is Santa Catalina, off the Plaza de la Virgen.
designed by architect Felix
Candela as a series of lagoons
and pavillions linked up by Painted tiles showing woman serving horchata
bridges and tunnels.




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258  EASTERN SP AIN


























Fishing boats on the shore of the freshwater lake, L’Albufera
e L’Albufera r Xàtiva Iberians. Under the Moors it
became prosperous, and in
Valencia. @ n Carretera del Palmar, Valencia. * 29,300. £ @
Racó de l’Olla, 963 86 80 50. ∑ citma. n Alameda de Jaime I 50, 962 27 the 12th century it was the first
gva.es/va/web/pn-l-albufera 33 46. ( Tue & Fri. _ Las Fallas (16– European city to make paper.
19 Mar); Fira de Agosto (14–20 Aug). Among the sights in the
A freshwater lake on the coast streets and squares of the Old
just south of Valencia, L’Albufera Along the narrow ridge of Town are a former hospital with
is one of the prime wetland Mount Vernissa, above Xàtiva, a Gothic-Renaissance façade,
habitats for birds in Eastern Spain. run the ruins of a once-grand and a Gothic fountain in the
It is cut off from the sea by a castle of 30 towers. It was largely Plaça de la Trinidad.
wooded sandbar, the Dehesa, destroyed by Felipe V in the War The oldest church in Xàtiva is
and fringed by a network of of the Spanish Succession (see the Ermita de San Feliú (Chapel
paddy fields, which produce p66). Felipe also set fire to the of St Felix) on the road up to
a third of Spain’s rice. town, which continues to wreak the fortress. It dates from around
L’Albufera is fed by the Río its revenge in an extraordinary 1262 and is hung with a number
Turia and connected to the sea way – by hanging Felipe’s full- of 14th- to 16th-century icons.
by three channels, which are length portrait upside down in
fitted with sluice gates to con- the Museo de Bellas Artes. + Castillo de Xàtiva
trol the water level. The lake Until the attack, Xàtiva was Subida del Castillo. Tel 962 27 42 74.
reaches a maximum depth of the second town of the king- Open Tue–Sun. &
2.5 m (8 ft), and is gradually dom of Valencia. It is thought E Museo de Bellas Artes
shrinking because of natural to have been founded by the Plaza Arzobispo Mayoral 2. Tel 962 28
silting and the reclamation of 24 55. Open Tue–Sun. & 7
land. In the Middle Ages the
lake encompassed an area
over ten times its present size. t Gandia
Over 250 species of birds – Valencia. * 78,000. £ @ n
including large numbers of Avinguda Marqués de Campo, 962
egrets and herons – have been 87 77 88. ( Thu, Sat. _ Las Fallas
recorded in the lake’s reedbeds (16–19 Mar). ∑ visitgandia.com
and marshy islands, the matas.
L’Albufera was declared a nature In 1485, Rodrigo Borja (who
reserve in 1986. Many birds can became Pope Alexander VI)
be seen with binoculars from was granted the title of Duchy
the shores of the lake. of Gandia. He founded the
A visitors’ centre at Racó de Borgia clan and, together with
l’Olla provides information on his children, was later implicat ed
the ecology of lake, the paddy Felipe V’s full-length portrait hanging in murder and debauchery.
fields and the Dehesa. upside down in Xàtiva Rodrigo’s great-grandson later
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp567–8 and p591


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V ALENCIA AND MURCIA  259


redeemed the family name by (Governor’s House), within the
joining the Jesuit order. He was castle, contains an archaeolo-
canonized as St Francis Borja gical museum, which shows
by Pope Clement X in 1671. the development of Dénia from
The house in which he 200 BC to the 18th century.
was born, the Palau Ducal North of the harbour is the
(Duke’s Palace), is now owned sandy beach of Las Marinas. To
by the Jesuits. Its sim ple the south is the rocky and less-
Gothic courtyard belies the developed Las Rotas beach,
ornate chambers within, which is good for snorkelling.
especially the Baroque Golden
Gallery. The small pa tio’s tiled + Castillo de Dénia
floor depicts the ele ments of Carrer Sant Francesc. Tel 966 42 06 56.
earth, air, fire and water. Open daily. Closed 1 Jan, 25 Dec.
& 7
P Palau Ducal
Carrer Duc Alfons el Vell 1. Tel 962 87 The ceremonial burning of Las Fallas
14 65. Open daily. & 8 u Xàbia on St Joseph’s Day
∑ palauducal.com
Alicante. * 31,000. @ n Plaza de
la Iglesia 4, 965 79 43 56. ( Thu. _ Valencia and
San Juan (24 Jun), Moros Y Cristianos Murcia’s Fiestas
(third weekend of Jul), Bous a la Mar Las Fallas (15–19 Mar).
(first week of Sep). ∑ xabia.org
Huge papier-mâché
monuments (fallas) are
Pirates and smugglers once
took advantage of the hiding erected in the crossroads and
squares of Valencia around
places afforded by the cliffs, 15 March and ceremonially
caves, inlets and two rocky set alight on the night of the
islands along the coastline of 19th, St Joseph’s Day. Costing
Xàbia (also known as Jávea). thousands of euros each, the
The town centre is perched fallas depict satirical scenes.
on a hill on the site of an Iberian During the fiesta, known
settle ment. Many build ings here as Les Falles in Valencian,
are made from the local Tosca the city echoes to the sound
sandstone. The 16th-century of firecrackers.
Iglesia de San Bartolomé was Good Friday, Lorca (Murcia).
The ornate and gilded interior of the Palau fortified to serve as a refuge in The “blue” and “white”
Ducal, Gandia times of invasion. Missiles could brotherhoods com pete
be dropped on to attackers via to outdo each other in
openings over the door. pomp and finery during
y Dénia The seafront at Cabo de a grand procession of
San Antonio is overlooked by biblical characters.
Alicante. * 41,600. £ @ g Moors and Christians
n Plaza Oculista Baigues 9, 966 42 ruined 17th- and 18th-century (21–24 Apr), Alcoi (Alicante).
23 67. ( Mon & Fri. _ Fiestas windmills. The bay is filled with Two costumed armies
Patronales (early Jul). ∑ denia.net modern developments, but the march into the city, where
beaches are free of high-rise they perform cer emonies
This town was founded as a apartment blocks. and fight mock battles
Greek colony. It takes its name in commemoration of
from the Roman goddess the Reconquest.
Diana – a temple in her honour Bous a la Mar (early Jul),
was excavated here. In the 11th Dénia (Alicante). People
century it became the capital of dodge bulls on the quay
a short-lived Muslim kingdom, until one or the other falls
whose do minion extended from into the sea (see p43).
And alucía to the Balearic Islands. Misteri d’Elx (11–15 Aug),
It is now a fishing port and Elx (Alicante). This choral
holiday resort. The town centre play, in the Iglesia de Santa
spreads around the base of a low María, has spec tacular
special effects.
hill. A large castle, once an Arab La Tomatina (last Wed of Aug),
fortress, on its sum mit overlooks Buñol (Valencia). Thousands
the harbour. The entrance gate, of participants pelt each
the Portal de la Vila, survives, but other with ripe tomatoes
it was altered in the 17th century. Entrance to the Gothic Iglesia de San (see pp252–3).
The Palacio del Gobernador Bartolomé in Xàbia


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262  EASTERN SP AIN


The Costa Blanca

Less hectic than the Costa del Sol (see pp478–9) and with warmer winters than the
Costa Brava (see p221), the Costa Blanca occupies a prime stretch of Spain’s Mediterranean
coast line. Alicante, with its airport and mainline railway station, is the arrival and
departure point for most tourists. Between Alicante and Altea there are long stretches
of sandy beach, which have been heavily built up with apart ment blocks and hotels.
North of Altea there are more fine beaches, but they are broken by cliffs and coves.
South from Alicante, as far as the resort of Torrevieja, the scenery is drier and more
barren, relieved only by the wooded sand dunes of Guardamar del Segura.
Dénia’s Las Marinas beach is a
Gandia marks the southern end flat, sandy strip lined by hotels.
of the Costa de Valencia, whose The rocky Les Rotes beach is
extensive beaches of fine sand El Grau good for snorkelling.
and shallow water are popular
with the Spanish. Gandia
Platja
d'Oliva
Oliva N332
Xàbia’s busiest beach
is El Arenal. Most of AP7 Dénia
the resort’s coastline Pego
is punctuated by cliffs Ondara Cap de
Sant Antoni
and coves.
Xàbia
Gata de
Gorgos Cap Martí
Altea is a resort with an unspoiled, Cap de
whitewashed old town on a hilltop. Benissa la Nau
Beneath it is a long, shingle beach.
AP7 N332 Moraira
Calp
Polop
Altea
Benidorm’s liveliest beach,
Finestrat l'Albir
Levante, has been voted one
Santa Pola is still AP7 Benidorm of the ten best beaches in
the world. Poniente is further
a working fishing N332 from the town centre.
port, but its long, Busot La Vila Joiosa
sandy beaches are CV800
very popular. AP7 Coveta Fumà
El Campello Platja de Sant Joan has a long strip of seamless
Mutxamel
Sant Joan d'Alacant sand bordered by a road and a narrow-gauge
railway, which gives easy access to the beach.
A70 Platja de Sant Joan
A31 Cap de
Alicante las Huertas
Torrellano 0 kilometres
N332 20
Elx Els Arenals del Sol 0 miles 10
The Illa de Tabarca attracts day-trippers
Santa Pola for its natural beauty and clear waters,
good for snorkelling.
Platja del Illa de
Pinet Tabarca
Guardamar del Segura has one of
Guardamar the coast’s least busy beaches. It is
del Segura bordered by windswept sand dunes
N332 covered with aromatic pine woods. Alicante’s city centre is served
La Mata Torrevieja is a very popular package by the popular Postiguet
holiday resort with sweeping, sandy beach. Nearby are vast, sandy
Torrevieja beaches to the south. It has been beaches, such as La Albufereta
highly developed in recent years. and Sant Joan.
Burning papier-mâché dragon at Las Fallas festival, Valencia
262-263_EW_Spain.indd 262 26/09/17 11:54 am

V ALENCIA AND MURCIA  263

i Penyal d’Ifac
Calp, Alicante. £ Calp. @ Calp.
n Avenida de los Ejércitos Españoles,
30, Calp, 965 83 69 20. Limited access
in Jul & Aug.
When viewed from afar, the rocky
outcrop of the Penyal d’Ifac
seems to rise vertically out of the
sea. One of the Costa Blanca’s
most dramatic sights, this 332-m-
(1,089-ft-) tall block of limestone
looks virtually unclimbable.
However, a short tunnel, built in
1918, allows walkers access to the
gentler slopes on its seaward side.
Allow about 2 hours for the
round trip, which starts at the
visitors’ centre above Calp
harbour. It takes you up gentle
slopes covered with juniper
and fan palm, with the waves
crashing below. As you climb,
and at the exposed summit,
there are spectacular views of a The magnificent limestone rock Penyal d’Ifac
large stretch of the Costa Blanca.
On a clear day you can see the ter races and planted them with p Alcoi
hills of Ibiza (see pp514–17). crops. These are still irrigated by Alicante. * 59,600. £ @ n Plaça
The Penyal d’Ifac is also home the original ditches con structed de Espanya, 14, 965 53 71 55. ( Wed
to 300 types of wild plant, includ- by the Moors. & Sat. _ Mercado Medieval (mid-
ing several rare species. Migrating From the castle there are to late Mar), Moors and Christians
birds use it as a landmark, and fine views of the surrounding (23 Apr). ∑ alcoiturisme.com
the salt flats below it are an mountains. Access to the castle
important habitat for them. is through the Casa Orduña. Sited at the confluence of three
The rock was privately owned The intriguing Museo de rivers and surrounded by high
until 1987, when the regional Microminiaturas, displays a mountains, Alcoi is an industrial
government acquired it and micro scopic version of Goya’s city. But it is best known for its
turned it into a nature reserve. Fusil amiento 3 de Mayo painted mock battles between Moors and
Situated below the rock on a grain of rice; his The Naked Christians (see p259) and its pela-
is the Iberian town of Calp, Maja (see p297), paint ed on the dillas – almonds coated in sugar.
re nowned for its beaches. wing of a fly; and a sculpture On the slopes above it is Font
of a camel passing through Roja, a nature reserve offering
the eye of a needle. pleasant walks, and a shrine
o Guadalest marked by a towering statue
E Museo de Microminiaturas of the Virgin Mary.
Alicante. * 226. n Avenida de Plaza San Gregorio 14. Tel 965 88 50 62.
Alicante, 96 588 52 98. _ Fiestas Open 10am–9pm daily (winter: 6pm).
de San Gregorio (1st week of Jun), & ∑ miniaturasguadalest.com Environs
Virgen de la Asunción (14–17 Aug). To the north of Alcoi is the Sierra
∑ guadalest.es de Mariola, a mountain range
famed for its herbs. The best
Despite drawing coach loads point of access is the village of
of day-trippers from Beni dorm, Agres. A scenic route runs from
this pretty mountain village here to the summit of Mont
remains relatively unspoiled. Cabrer at 1,390 m (4,560 ft). It
This is largely because its old er passes two ruined neveras –
part is accessible only on foot pits once used to store ice for
by a single entrance: a sloping preserving fish and meat.
tunnel cut into the rock on The bullring of Bocairent,
which the castle ruins and the 10 km (6 miles) west of Agres,
church’s distinctive belfry are was carved out of rock in 1813.
precariously perched. A nearby cliff is pockmarked
Guadalest was founded by with Les Covetes dels Moros
the Moors, who carved the The belfry of Guadalest, perched on (“The Moors’ Caves”), but their
surrounding hillsides into top of a rock origin remains a mystery.
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp567–8 and p591


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264  EASTERN SP AIN

a Benidorm s Novelda
Alicante. * 69,100. £ @ n Plaza Alicante. * 27,000. £ @ n Carrer
Canalejas, El Torrejó, 965 85 13 11. Mayor 6, 965 60 92 28. ( Wed & Sat.
( Wed & Sun. _ Las Fallas (16–19 _ Santa María Magdalena (19–25
Mar), Virgen del Carmen (16 Jul), Jul). ∑ novelda.es
Moros y Cristianos (late Sep, early Oct),
Fiestas Patronales (second weekend in The industrial town of Novelda is
Nov). ∑ visitbenidorm.es dominated by marble factories.
But it is the exquisitely preserved
With forests of skyscrapers Art Nouveau house, the Casa
overshadowing its two long Modernista, that is of special
beaches, Benidorm is far interest. It was built in 1903 and
removed from the obscure and rescued from demolition in
fishing village it once was in the 1970. The building’s three floors
early 1950s. are fur nished in period style.
Benidorm boasts more There are few straight lines or
ac commodation than any other Main staircase with floral lamp in the Casa func tional shapes and almost
resort on the Mediterranean, Modernista, Novelda every inch of wall space has
but its clientele has changed some floral or playful motif.
since the 1980s, when its name to sea is the Illa de Benidorm,
was synonymous with “lager a wedge-shaped island served Environs
louts”. A huge public park and by fer ries from the harbour. The Villena’s museum has a collection
open-air auditorium used for island has been converted into of Bronze Age gold objects, the
cultural events, the Parque de a nature reserve for seabirds. Tesoro de Villena (see pp52–3).
l’Aigüera, is emblematic of the
face-lift Benidorm has gone Environs P Casa Modernista
through. The town attracts La Vila Joiosa (Villajoyosa), to Calle Mayor 24. Tel 965 60 02 37. Open
elderly holiday-makers from the south, is much older than 10am–2pm Tue–Fri. 8 by appt.
the north of Spain and English Benidorm. Its principal sight is E Tesoro de Villena
expats, the latter coming for a line of brightly painted hous es Plaza de Santiago 1. Tel 965 80 11 50.
splendid sandy beaches, reliable that overhang the riverbed. Open Tue–Sun am. & 7
sun shine, nightclubs and They were painted in such vivid ∑ museovillena.com
knock off “English” pubs. colours, it is said, so that their
A park on a promontory fishermen owners would be
between the Levante and able to identify their homes d Alicante
Poniente beaches, the Balcón del when they were out at sea. Alicante. * 332,000. k £ @ g
Mediterráneo, ends in a giant The older part of Altea, to the n Rambla Méndez Núñez 41, 965
waterspout – a single-jet fountain. north of Benidorm, stands on a 20 00 00. ( Thu & Sat. _ Hogueras
From here there is a panoramic hill above modern beach front (20–24 Jun). ∑ alicanteturismo.com
view of the town. A short way out developments. It is a delightful
jumble of white houses, narrow A port and seaside resort built
streets and long flights of steps around a natural harbour,
around a blue-domed church. Alicante (Alacant) is the prin-
cipal city of the Costa Blanca.
Both the Greeks and Romans
established settlements here.
In the 8th century the Moors
refounded the city under the
shadow of Mount Benacantil.
Its summit is now occupied by
the Castillo de Santa Bárbara,
which dates from the 16th
century. Its top battlements
offer a view over the whole city.
The focus of the city is the
Explanada de España, a palm-
lined promenade along the
waterfront. The 18th-century
ayuntamiento (town hall) is
worth seeing for the Salón Azul
(Blue Room). A metal disc on
the marble staircase is used as a
reference point in measuring the
The old town of Altea, dominated by its domed church sea level all around Spain. A fine
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp567–8 and p591


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V ALENCIA AND MURCIA  265

h Orihuela
Alicante. * 83,400. £ @ n Plaza
Teniente Linares, 965 30 46 45. ( Tue.
_ Moros y Cristianos (10–17 Jul).
∑ orihuelaturistica.es
In the 15th century Orihuela
was prosperous enough for
Fernando and Isabel to stop and
collect men and money on their
way to do battle against the
Moors at Granada. The Gothic
cathedral houses Velázquez’s
The Temptation of St Thomas
Yachts moored in Alicante harbour, beside the Explanada de España Aquinas in its museum. Among
the exhibits in the Museo San
collection of 20th-century art can g Elx Juan de Dios archaeological
be seen at the Museo de Arte Alicante. * 230,000. £ @ n Plaza museum is a processional float
Contemporáneo (MACA). Local Parque 3, 966 65 81 96. ( Mon & Sat. bearing a 17th-century statue
artist Eusebio Sempere (1924–85) _ Misteri d’Elx (14–15 Aug). of a she-devil, La Diablesa.
assembled works by Dalí, Miró, ∑ visitelche.com
Picasso (see pp36–7) and others. E Museo San Juan de Dios
The forest of over 300,000 palm Calle del Hospital. Tel 966 74 31 54.
+ Castillo de Santa Bárbara trees that surrounds Elx (Elche) Open Tue–Sun. 7 8
Playa del Postiguet. Tel 965 92 77 15. on three sides is said to have
Open daily. & (for elevator only). 8 been planted by the Phoenicians
∑ castillodesantabarbara.com around 300 BC. Part of it has
P Ayuntamiento been enclosed as a private
Plaza del Ayuntamiento 1. Tel 965 14 garden called the Huerto del
91 00. Open 9am–2pm Mon–Fri. Cura. Some of the palms –
one with a trunk which has
E Museo de Arte
Contemporáneo (MACA) divided into eight branches
– are dedicated to notable
Plaza de Santa María 3. Tel 965 21
31 56. Open 10am–8pm Tue–Sat, people, like the Empress
10am–2pm Sun. Closed 1 & 6 Jan, Elizabeth of Austria, who
1 May, 25 Dec & local hols. 7 visited here in 1894.
∑ maca-alicante.es The first settlement in the
area, around 5000 BC, was
at La Alcudia, where a 5th-
f Illa de Tabarca century BC Iberian stone bust
of a priestess, La Dama de Elche
Alicante. g from Santa Pola/Alicante.
n Santa Pola, 966 69 22 76. (see p52), was discovered in
1897. The original is in Madrid,
The best point of departure for but there are several replicas La Diablesa, Orihuela
the Illa de Tabarca is Santa Pola. scattered around Elx.
This small, flat island is divided The blue-domed Baroque
into two parts: a stony, treeless church, the Basílica de Santa j Torrevieja
area of level ground known as María, was built in the 17th Alicante. * 91,400. n Paseo
el campo (the countryside), and century to house the Misteri Vista Alegre, 965 70 34 33. ( Fri.
a walled settlement, which d’Elx (see p45). Next to it is La _ Habaneras (22–30 Jul).
is entered through three Calahorra, a Gothic tower, ∑ turismodetorrevieja.com
gateways. The settlement was which is a surviving part of
laid out on a grid plan in the the city’s defences. During the 1980s, Torrevieja
18th century, on the orders A clock on the roof next to grew at a prodigious rate as
of Carlos III, to deter pirates. the town hall has two 16th- thousands of Europeans
Tabarca is a popular place century mechanical figures, purchased homes here. Before
to swim or snorkel and it can which strike the hours on bells. tourism, the town’s source of
get crowded in the summer. income was sea salt. The salt-
Fish and salt have long been Y Huerto del Cura works are the most productive
important to the economy of Porta de la Morera 49. Tel 965 45 19 in Europe and the second most
Santa Pola. A Roman fish salt ing 36. Open daily. & 7 8 ∑ jardin. important in the world.
works has been excavated here, huertodelcura.com The habaneras festival cele-
and outside the town are some P La Calahorra brates Cuban music brought
modern saltpans. Calle Uberna. Open Tue–Sun. back by salt exporters.



264-265_EW_Spain.indd 265 26/09/17 11:01 am

266  EASTERN SP AIN


The cathedral museum
displays grand Gothic altar­
pieces, a frieze from a Roman
sarcophagus and the third­
largest monstrance in Spain.
Francisco Salzillo (1707–83),
one of Spain’s greatest sculp tors,
was born in Murcia, and a
museum in the Iglesia de Jesús
(Church of Jesus) exhibits nine
of his pasos – sculptures on
platforms. These are carried
through the streets on Good
Friday morning. The figures are
so lifelike that a fellow sculptor
Capilla del Junterón, Murcia is said to have told the men
carrying a paso: “Put it down,
k Murcia it will walk by itself.”
The Museo Etnológico
Murcia. * 439,700. £ @ n Plaza
Cardenal Belluga, Ayuntamiento de la Huerta de Murcia, 7 km
Building, 968 35 87 49. ( Thu. (4.5 miles) out of Murcia, stands
_ Semana Santa (Easter Week). beside a large waterwheel – Arab-style patio, Murcia Casino
∑ turismodemurcia.es a 1955 copy in iron of the
original 15th­century wooden built on a long, thin, sandy
A regional capital and university wheel. The galleries dis play strip, separates the Mediter­
city on the River Segura, Murcia agricultural and domestic ranean and the Mar Menor,
was founded in 825 by the Moors, items, some of them 300 years literally the “Smaller Sea”.
following successful irrigation old. A traditional, thatched Really a large lagoon, the
of the surrounding fertile plain. Murcian farmhouse forms part sheltered Mar Menor can
The pedestrianized Calle de of the museum. be 5°C (9°F) warmer than the
la Trapería, linking the cathedral Mediterranean in summer. Its
and the former marketplace P Casino high mineral concentrations
(now the Plaza Santo Domingo), C/ Trapería 18. Tel 968 21 53 99. Open first drew rest­cure tourists in
is the city’s main street. 10:30am–7:30pm daily. & 7 8 the early 20th century. They
On it stands the Casino, a E Museo Etnológico de la stayed at the older resorts of
gentlemen’s club founded in Huerta de Murcia Santiago de la Ribera and Los
1847. It is entered through Avda Principe, Alcantarilla. Tel 968 89 Alcázares, which still have
an Arab­style patio, fashioned 38 66. Open Museum & Gardens: Tue– pretty wooden jetties.
on the royal chambers of the Sun. Closed Aug & public hols. 7 From either La Manga or
Alhambra. The huge ballroom Santiago de la Ribera you can
has a polished parquet floor make a ferry trip to the Isla
and is illuminated by five l Mar Menor Perdiguera, one of the five
crystal chandeliers. Visitors islands in the Mar Menor.
can take a tour of the interior Murcia. ~ San Javier. £ to These days the region is
Cartagena, then bus. @ La Manga.
and splash out on a meal in n La Manga, 968 14 61 36. very built­up, but to escape
the fine restaurant. ∑ marmenor.es the crowds head to the Parque
Work on the cathedral began Regional de Calblanque. Its
in 1394 over the found ations of The elongated, high­rise dunes and beaches are wild
Murcia’s central mosque, and it holiday resort of La Manga, and unspoilt.
was finally consecrated in 1467.
The large tower was added
much later and constructed in
stages from the 16th to the 18th
centuries. The architect Jaime
Bort built the main, Baroque
façade between 1739 and 1754.
The cathedral’s finest features
are two exquisitely ornate side
chapels. The first, the Capilla de
los Vélez, is in Late Gothic style
and was built between 1490
and 1507. The second, the
Renaissance Capilla del Junterón,
dates from the early 16th century. The resort of Los Alcázares on the edge of the Mar Menor
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp567–8 and p591


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V ALENCIA AND MURCIA  267


from this era, although only
two of its original 35 towers
remain. In 2011, the city was
hit by Spain’s worst earthquake
for more than 50 years. The
castle was badly damaged but
it has since been repaired –
there is now a parador inside.
After Granada fell the town
lost its importance and, except
for one surviving gateway, its
walls were demolished.
The central Plaza de España
is lined with handsome stone
buildings. One side of the square
View of the domes and spires of Cartagena’s town hall from the seafront is occupied by the Colegiata
de San Patricio (Church of St
z Cartagena x Costa Cálida Patrick), built between 1533 and
1704, the only church in Spain
Murcia. * 218,200. ~ San Javier. £ Murcia. £ Murcia. @ Murcia.
@ g n Palacio Consistorial, Plaza n Plaza Antonio Cortijos, Águilas, dedicated to the Irish saint.
del Ayuntamiento 1, 968 12 89 55. ( 968 49 32 85. ∑ murciaturistica.es
Wed. _ Semana Santa (Easter Week), v Caravaca de
Carthagin ians and Romans (last two The most popular resorts of
weeks Sep). ∑ cartagenaturismo.es Murcia’s “Warm Coast” are around la Cruz
the Mar Menor. Be tween Cabo
The first settlement founded in de Palos and Cabo Tinoso the Murcia. * 26,400. n Calle de las
Monjas 17, 968 70 24 24. ( Mon,
the natural harbour of Cartagena few small beaches are dwarfed 3rd Sun of month (crafts). _ Vera
was constructed in 223 BC by by cliffs. The resorts of the south- Cruz (1–5 May). ∑ caravaca.org
the Carthaginians, who called it ern part of the coast are relatively
Quart Hadas (New City). After quiet. There are several fine A town of ancient churches,
conquering the city in 209 BC, beaches at Puerto de Mazarrón; Caravaca de la Cruz’s fame lies
the Romans renamed it Carthago and at nearby Bolnuevo the in its castle, which houses the
Nova (New Carthage). Although wind has eroded soft rocks into Santuario de la Vera Cruz
the city declined in importance strange shapes. The growing (Sanctuary of the True Cross).
in the Middle Ages, its prestige resort of Águilas marks the This is where a double-armed
increased in the 18th century southern limit of the coast, cross is said to have appeared
when it became a naval base. at the border with Andalucía. miraculously in 1231 – 12 years
The park surrounding the ruins before the town was seized by
of the Castillo de la Concepción, Christians. The highlight of the
Cartagena’s castle, has views over c Lorca Vera Cruz fiesta is the Race of
the impressive Roman theatre Murcia. * 91,700. £ @ n Plaza the Wine Horses, which
and its museum, the Museo del de España 7, 968 44 19 14. ( Thu. commemorates the lifting of a
Teatro Romano. The city hall is _ Semana Santa (Easter Week), Moorish siege of the castle and
at the end of the Calle Mayor, a Feria (3rd week of Sep), Día de the appearance of the cross.
street with hand some buildings San Clemente (23 Nov). The cross was dipped in wine,
and balconies. Ex cavations in the ∑ lorcaturismo.es which the thirsty defenders
city include a Roman street and then drank and recovered
the Muralla Bizantina (Byzantine The farmland around Lorca their fighting strength.
Wall), built between 589 and 590. is a fertile oasis in one of
The Museo Nacional de Arqueo­ Europe’s most arid areas. Environs
logía Marítima has trea sures Lorca was an important Just to the north, among
from Greek and Roman wrecks. staging post on the Via the foothills on Murcia’s
Heraclea, as witnessed western border, is the
E Museo del Teatro Romano by the Roman milepost village of Moratalla, a
Plaza del Ayuntamiento 9. stand ing in a corner of jumble of steep streets
Tel 968 52 51 49. & 8 7 the Plaza San Vicente. and stone houses lying
∑ teatroromanocartagena.org During the wars beneath a 15th-century
T Muralla Bizantina between Moors and castle. Cehegín, east of
Calle Doctor Tapia Martínez. Christians in the 13th Caravaca, is a partially
Tel 968 50 79 66. Open Tue–Sat. to 15th centuries, Lorca preserved 16th- and
E Museo Nacional de became a frontier town 17th-century town.
Arqueología Marítima between Al Andalus and
Paseo Alfonso XII. Tel 968 12 11 66. the Castilian territory of Roman milepost topped by a statue
Open Tue–Sun. & free Sat pm & Sun. Murcia. Its castle dates of St Vincent, Lorca




266-267_EW_Spain.indd 267 26/09/17 11:01 am

268-269_EW_Spain.indd 268 26/09/17 11:54 am

INTRODUCING


MADRID





Introducing Madrid 270–271

Old Madrid 272–285
Bourbon Madrid 286–303
Further Afield 304–310
Madrid Street Finder 311–319
Shopping in Madrid 320–323
Entertainment in Madrid 324–329
Madrid Province 330–337









































268-269_EW_Spain.indd 269 26/09/17 11:54 am

270  M ADRID

Introducing Madrid

Spain’s capital, a city of over three million people, is situated
close to the geographical centre of the country, at the hub of
both road and rail networks. Because of its distance from the
sea and its altitude – 660 m (2,150 ft) – the city endures cold
winters and hot summers, making spring and autumn the best
times to visit. Madrid’s attractions include three internationally
famous art galleries, a royal palace, grand public squares and
many museums filled with the treasures of Spain’s history. The
city is surrounded by its own small province, the Comunidad
de Madrid, which takes in the Sierra de Guadarrama and one
of Spain’s most famous monuments, the palace of El Escorial.


The Palacio Real (see pp280–81),
the royal palace built by Spain’s
first Bourbon kings, dominates
PLAZA
the western part of Old Madrid. DE COLÓN
Its lavishly decorated chambers
PASEO DE RECOLETOS
include the throne room.
PLAZA
DE ESPAÑA
GRAN VIA
The Plaza Mayor (see p277), DEL CALLAO
PLAZA
Old Madrid’s great GRAN VIA DE CIBELES CALLE DE ALCALÁ
PLAZA
17th-century square, has
been a focal point of the OLD MADRID CALLE DE ALCALÁ
city since the days when it CALLE DE BAILEN (See pp272–85) PUERTA BOURBON MADRID
was used as a public arena DEL SOL (See pp286–303)
for bullfights, trials by the PLAZA
Inquisition and executions MAYOR DEL CASTILLO
PLAZA
DE CANOVAS
(see p278). An equestrian
statue of Felipe III stands in CALLE DE SEGOVIA
the middle of the square. C A L L E D E AT O C H A PASEO DEL PRADO
Madrid Province
(see pp330–37)
Buitrago
del Lozoya



El Escorial
Torrelodones
Alcobendas
MADRID Alcalá
(See main map) de Henares
El Escorial (see pp334–5), the
Alcorcón Getafe massive, architecturally austere
monastery-palace built by
Felipe II, has some sumptuous
apart ments decorated with
great works of art. Marble
Aranjuez
0 kilometres 25 sarcophagi in the octagonal
Royal Pantheon contain the
0 miles 25 mortal remains of many
Spanish monarchs.
Madrid’s Palacio de Comunicaciones, on Plaza de Cibeles


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INTRODUCING M ADRID  271


The Museo Thyssen-Bornemisza
(see pp292–3), one of the most
important privately assembled art
collections in the world,
was sold to Spain in 1993.
The early 19th-century
palace houses works by
Titian, Rubens, Goya,
van Gogh and Picasso.

0 metres 500
0 yards 500





The Plaza de Cibeles (see p290), one of the city’s
PLAZA
DE COLÓN most impressive squares, is ringed by distinctive
buildings, including Madrid´s former main post
PASEO DE RECOLETOS headquarters of the city council.
façade, is now a cultural centre and the
PLAZA office. The building, with sculptures on its white
DE ESPAÑA
GRAN VIA
PLAZA
DEL CALLAO GRAN VIA DE CIBELES CALLE DE ALCALÁ
CALLE DE BAILEN OLD MADRID DEL SOL CALLE DE ALCALÁ BOURBON MADRID
PLAZA
(See pp272–85)
PUERTA
(See pp286–303)
PLAZA
PLAZA
DEL CASTILLO
MAYOR DE CANOVAS
CALLE DE SEGOVIA
The Parque del Retiro (see p301) has leafy
paths and avenues, and a boating lake
overlooked by a majestic colonnade. It is
an ideal place in which to relax between
C A L L E D E AT O C H A
visits to the great art galleries and
PASEO DEL PRADO
museums of Bourbon Madrid.
The Museo del Prado
(see pp296–9) is one of
the world’s greatest art
galleries. It has
important collections of
paintings by Velázquez
and Goya, whose statues
stand outside the
main entrances.

The Museo Nacional Centro
de Arte Reina Sofía (see
pp302–3), an outstanding
museum of 20th-century art,
is entered by highly original
exterior glass lifts. Inside, the
star exhibit is Guernica, Picasso’s
famous paint ing (see p303).




270-271_EW_Spain.indd 271 26/09/17 11:01 am

CALLE DE VENTURA PRINCESA
RODRIGUEZ
CALLE DE LA
Plaza
España
CALLE
DE FERRAZ
GRAN
Santo
CUESTA DE SAN VICENTE DEL RELOJ Domingo VIA
CALLE
CALLE DE
Príncipe C. DE TORIJA JACOMETREZO
Pío PLAZA DE GR A N VI A
Gran Vía
S. DOMINGO S. MARTIN Callao CALLE DE PRECIADOS PLAZA DEL CALLE DE CALLE ADUANA GRAN VIA
PASEO DE LA VIRGEN DEL PUERTO CAMPO DEL PLAZA DE CALLE DE BAILEN AUSTRIAS MAYOR MAYOR SOL Sol JERONIMO Sevilla ALCALA
JARDINES DEL
CENTRO
CALLE
LA MONTERA
PALACIO REAL
JARDINES
CARMEN
PLAZA DE
PLAZA DE
ISABEL II
CALLE DE
Opera
ARMAS
MORO
PLAZA DE
C. DE SAN
PLAZA DE
CALLE DEL ARENAL
SAN GINES
RAMALES
CALLE MAYOR
PLAZA DE LOS
HERRADORES
CALLE DE LA CRUZ
CALLE DE
PLAZA
SANTIAGO
CALLE
PASEO DE LA
CIUDAD DE PLASENCIA
PLAZA DEL
CONDE
PARQUE DE ATENAS
CALLE DEL
JERONIMA
CALLE DE SEGOVIA CALLE SACRAMENTO DE MIRANDA C. DE CONCEPCIO N C. DE LA BOLSA PRINCIPE CALLE DEL
DE SEGOVIA CALLE DE TO LEDO LA COLEGIATA
CALLE DE
CALLE DE ATOCHA
Tirso
de Molina
272-273_EW_Spain.indd 272 26/09/17 11:01 am

M ADRID  273

OLD MADRID

When Felipe II chose Madrid as his capital When this burned down in 1734, it was
in 1561, it was a small Castilian town of little replaced by the present Bourbon palace,
real significance. In the following years, it the Palacio Real.
was to grow into the nerve centre of a The population had scarcely reached
mighty empire. 20,000 when Madrid was chosen as capital,
According to tradition, it was the Moorish but by the end of the century it had more
chieftain Muhammad ben Abd al Rahman than trebled. The 16th-century city is known
who established a fortress above the Río as the “Madrid de los Austrias”, after the
Manzanares. Magerit, as it was called in reigning Habsburg dynasty. During this
Arabic, fell to Alfonso VI of Castile between period royal monasteries were endowed and
1083 and 1086. Narrow streets with houses churches and private palaces were built. In
and medieval churches began to grow up the 17th century, the Plaza Mayor was added
on the higher ground behind the old Arab and the Puerta del Sol, the “Gate of the Sun”,
alcázar (fortress), which was replaced by became the spiritual and geographical heart
a Gothic palace in the 15th century. not only of Madrid but of all Spain.

Sights at a Glance
Historic Buildings Streets, Squares and Parks
9 Palacio Real pp280–81 1 Puerta del Sol
3 Plaza de la Villa
Museums and Galleries 4 Plaza Mayor
r Real Academia de Bellas Artes 6 Plaza de Oriente
de San Fernando 8 Campo del Moro
Churches and Convents q Plaza de España
2 Colegiata de San Isidro w Gran Vía See also Madrid Street Finder,
5 Iglesia de San Nicolás de Bari maps 1, 2, 3, 4, 7
7 Catedral de la Almudena
0 Monasterio de la Encarnación
e Monasterio de las
Descalzas Reales

CALLE DE VENTURA PRINCESA
RODRIGUEZ
CALLE DE LA
Plaza
España
0 metres
0 yards 500 500
CALLE
DE FERRAZ
GRAN
Santo
CUESTA DE SAN VICENTE DEL RELOJ Domingo VIA
CALLE
CALLE DE
Príncipe C. DE TORIJA JACOMETREZO
Pío PLAZA DE GR A N VI A
Gran Vía
S. DOMINGO S. MARTIN Callao CALLE DE PRECIADOS PLAZA DEL CALLE DE CALLE ADUANA GRAN VIA
PASEO DE LA VIRGEN DEL PUERTO CAMPO DEL PLAZA DE CALLE DE BAILEN AUSTRIAS MAYOR MAYOR SOL Sol JERONIMO Sevilla ALCALA
JARDINES DEL
CENTRO
CALLE
LA MONTERA
PALACIO REAL
JARDINES
CARMEN
PLAZA DE
PLAZA DE
ISABEL II
CALLE DE
Opera
MORO
ARMAS
PLAZA DE
C. DE SAN
PLAZA DE
CALLE DEL ARENAL
SAN GINES
RAMALES
CALLE MAYOR
PLAZA DE LOS
HERRADORES
CALLE DE LA CRUZ
CALLE DE
SANTIAGO
PLAZA
CALLE
PASEO DE LA
CIUDAD DE PLASENCIA
PLAZA DEL
CONDE
C. DE LA BOLSA
PARQUE DE ATENAS
PRINCIPE
CALLE DEL
JERONIMA
CALLE DE SEGOVIA CALLE SACRAMENTO DE MIRANDA C. DE CONCEPCIO N CALLE DE ATOCHA CALLE DEL
DE SEGOVIA CALLE DE TO LEDO LA COLEGIATA
CALLE DE
Tirso
de Molina
Elegant stone fountain in Campo del Moro park with the Palacio Real behind For keys to symbols see back flap
272-273_EW_Spain.indd 273 26/09/17 11:01 am

274  M ADRID

Street-by-Street: Old Madrid

Stretching from the charming Plaza de la
Villa to the busy Puerta del Sol, the compact 4. Plaza Mayor
This beautiful
heart of Old Madrid is steeped in history 17th-century square
and full of interesting sights. Trials by the competes with the
Inquisition (see p278) and executions were Puerta del Sol as the
once held in the Plaza Mayor. This porticoed focus of Old Madrid.
The arcades at the
square is Old Madrid’s finest piece of archi­ base of the three-
tecture, a legacy of the Habsburgs (see pp64– storey buildings are
5). Other buildings of note are the Colegiata filled with cafés and
de San Isidro and the Palacio de Santa Cruz. craft shops.
For a more relaxing way of enjoy ing Old
Madrid, sit in one of the area’s numerous E S
cafés or browse among the stalls of the O R
Mercado de San Miguel. D
A
D
R
The Mercado de San Miguel is O
housed in a 19th-century building B
with wrought-iron columns. The
market has several excellent places
to stop for a snack.
PLAZA
COMMANDANTE
C A L L E M AY O R MORENAS
P LAZ A
D E L A
To Palacio
Real VILL A
O
N R
Ó T
D S
R O
O R
C N
O
Old Town Hall U Ñ S
(ayuntamiento) P O
R
E
Casa de Cisneros L L
I
H
C C A L L E D E T O L E D O
Arco de C U
Cuchilleros
3. Plaza de la Villa
The 15th-century Torre de los
Lujanes is the oldest of several
historic buildings standing on
this square.
The Basílica Pontificia
de San Miguel is an
imposing 18th-century
0 metres 100 church with a beautiful
façade and a graceful
0 yards 100
interior. It is one of very
few churches in Spain
inspired by the Italian
Baroque style.
For hotels and restaurants in this area see pp568–9 and pp591–3


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OLD M ADRID  275


1. Puerta del Sol
This square’s clock-tower
bell famously rings in
each New Year, heralding
a customary consump-
tion of 12 grapes – one
with each bell toll – for a
prosperous New Year.
Locator Map
Sol Metro See Madrid Street Finder map 4
Iglesia de San Ginés
Equestrian statue
of Carlos III
S
E
R To Bourbon Madrid
O
C A L L E D E A L C A L Á
D C A L L E D E L A R E N A L
A
D P U E R T A D E L S O L
R
O
B
Casa de Correos
(Post House),
C A L L E M A Y O R S T A E A N I currently the
headquarters of
C A L L E D E P O S T A S C A L L E C O R E O S R R A C M Y Z the regional
government
P LAZ A D E N A O P S
M AY O R C A L L E PA Z L E L O L E
C A E C
R
A
B
P LAZ A
PROVINCIA
S
O PL A Z A DE
R JA CINT O
E
L BENA VENTE
L D U Q U E D E R I V A S
I
H
C C A L L E D E T O L E D O
U
C E
L L
A
C
The Palacio de Santa Cruz
was built as the court
prison in the 17th century.
This Late Renaissance–style
(see p29) palace is occupied
C A L L E D E L A C O L E G I ATA
by the Foreign Ministry.
2 Colegiata de San Isidro
This was Madrid’s provisional
Tirso de Molina cathedral until La Almudena
Metro was completed (see p279).
Key It is named after the city’s
patron, St Isidore, a local
Suggested route 12th-century farmer.



274-275_EW_Spain.indd 275 26/09/17 11:01 am

276  M ADRID

2 Colegiata de
San Isidro
Calle Toledo 37. Map 4 E3. Tel: 91 369
20 37.  La Latina, Tirso de Molina.
Open 7:30am–1pm & 6–9pm daily.
The Colegiata de San Isidro was
built in the Baroque style (see
p29) for the Jesuits in the mid-
17th century. This twin-towered
church served as Madrid’s
cathedral until La Almudena (see
p279) was completed in 1993.
Kilometre Zero, the centre of Spain’s road network, Puerta del Sol After Carlos III expelled the
Jesuits from Spain in 1767 (see
1 Puerta del Sol Carlos III. In 1847 it became p66), Ventura Rodríguez was
the head quarters of the Ministry commissioned to redesign the
Map 4 F2.  Sol.
of the Interior. The clock tower, interior of the church. It was
Crowded and noisy with chatter which gives the building much then rededicated to Madrid’s
and policemen’s whistles, the of its iden tity, was added in 1866. patron saint, St Isidore, and
Puerta del Sol makes a fitting During the Franco regime (see two years later the saint’s
centre for Madrid. This is one pp70–71), the police cells re mains were moved here
of the city’s most popular beneath the building were from the Iglesia de San Andrés.
meeting places, and huge the site of many human rights San Isidro was returned to
crowds converge here on their abuses. In 1963, Julián Grimau, the Jesuits during the reign
way to the shops and sights in a member of the underground of Fernando VII (1814–33).
the old part of the city. Communist Party, allegedly fell
The square marks the site of from an upstairs window and
the original eastern entrance miracu lously survived, only to
to the city, once occupied by be executed soon afterwards.
a gatehouse and castle. These The building is now home
disappeared long ago and in to the regional government
their place came a succession and is the focus of many festive
of churches. In the late 19th events. At midnight on New
century the area was turned Year’s Eve crowds fill the square
into a square and became to eat a grape on each stroke of
the centre of café society. the clock, a tradition supposed
Today the “square” is shaped to bring good luck for the year.
like a half-moon. A recent Outside a symbol on the
ad dition is the modern glass ground marks Kilometre Zero,
train station in front of the statue considered the centre of
of Carlos III. The southern side Spain’s huge road network.
of the square is edged by an The buildings opposite Altar in the Colegiata de San Isidro
austere red-brick building, origi- are arranged in a semicircle
nally the city’s post and contain modern shops and
office, built in cafés. At the start of Calle 3 Plaza de la Villa
the 1760s Alcalá is a bronze statue of the Map 4 D3.  Ópera, Sol.
under symbol of Madrid – a bear
reaching for the fruit of a The much-restored Plaza de
madroño (strawberry tree). la Villa is one of the most
The Puerta del Sol has atmospheric spots in Madrid.
witnessed many important Some of the city’s most historic
historical events. On 2 May secular buildings are situated
1808 the uprising against the around this square.
occupying French forces began The oldest building is the
here, but the crowd, pitted early 15th-century Torre de los
against the well-armed French Lujanes, with its Gothic portal
troops, was crushed (see p67). In and Mudéjar-style horse shoe
1912 the liberal prime minister arches. François I of France
José Canalejas was assassinated was allegedly impris oned in it
in the square and, in 1931, the following his defeat at the Battle
Second Republic (see p69) was of Pavia in 1525. The Casa de
The bronze bear and strawberry tree pro claimed from the balcony Cisneros was built in 1537 for
of Madrid, Puerta del Sol of the Ministry of the Interior. the nephew of Cardinal Cisneros,
For hotels and restaurants in this area see pp568–9 and pp591–3


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OLD M ADRID  277


place here in 1622. One year is the Casa de la Panadería
earlier, in 1621, the execution (bakery). Its façade, now crudely
of Rodrigo Calderón, secretary reinvented, is decorated with
to Felipe III, was held here. allegorical paintings. Madrid’s
Although hated by the Madrid main tourist office is sited here.
populace, Calderón bore The equestrian statue in
himself with such dignity on the the centre is of Felipe III, who
day of his death that the phrase ordered the square’s construc­
“proud as Rodrigo on the scaffold” tion. Started by the Italian
survives to this day. Perhaps Giovanni de Bologna and
the greatest occasion of all, finished by his pupil Pietro Tacca
however, was the arrival here – in 1616, the statue was moved
from Italy – of Carlos III in 1760. here in 1848 from the Casa de
The square was started in Campo (see p306). Today the
1617 and built in just two square is lined with cafés, and
years, replacing slum houses. hosts a collectors’ market on
Portal of the Torre de los Lujanes Its architect, Juan Gómez de Sundays (see pp320–21). The
Mora, was successor to Juan de square’s southern exit leads into
founder of the historic University Herrera, designer of Felipe II’s Calle de Toledo towards the
of Alcalá (see pp336–7). The main austere monastery­palace, El streets where the Rastro, Madrid’s
façade, on the Calle de Sacra­ Escorial (see pp334–5). Gómez flea market (see p306), is held. A
mento, is an excellent example de Mora echoed the style of his flight of steps in the south west
of the Plateresque style (see p29). master, softening it slightly. The corner takes you under the Arco
Linked to this building, by an square was later reformed by de Cuchilleros to the Calle de
enclosed bridge, is the Old Juan de Villanueva. The fanciest Cuchilleros, and some mesones,
Town Hall (ayuntamiento). part of the arcaded construction traditional restaurants.
Designed in the 1640s by Juan
Gómez de Mora, architect of
the Plaza Mayor, it exhibits the
same combination of steep roofs
with dormer windows, steeple­
like towers at the corners and
an austere façade of brick and
stone. Before construction
was finished – more than
30 years later – the building had
acquired hand some Baroque
doorways. A balcony was later
added by Juan de Villanueva,
the architect of the Prado (see
pp296–9), so that the royal
family could watch Corpus
Christi processions passing by.

4 Plaza Mayor
Map 4 E3.  Opera, Sol, Tirso de
Molina.
The Plaza Mayor forms a
splendid rectangular square, all
balconies and pinnacles, dormer
windows and steep slate roofs.
The square, with its theatrical
atmosphere, is very Castilian in
character. Much was expected
to happen here and a great
deal did – bullfights, executions,
pageants and trials by the
Inquisition (see p278) – all
watched by crowds, often in the
presence of the reigning king
and queen. The canonization of
Madrid’s patron, St Isidore, took Allegorical paintings on the Casa de la Panadería, Plaza Mayor




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278  M ADRID


The Spanish Inquisition

The Spanish Inquisition was set up by Fernando and Isabel in 1478 to create a single,
monolithic Catholic ideology in Spain. Protestant heretics and alleged “false converts”
to Catholicism from the Jewish and Muslim faiths were tried, to ensure the religious
unity of the country. Beginning with a papal bull, the Inquisition was run like a court,
presided over by the Inquisitor-General. However, the defendants were denied counsel,
not told the charges facing them and tortured to obtain confessions. Punishment
ranged from impris onment to beheading, hanging or burning at the stake. A for midable
system of control, it gave Spain’s Protestant enemies a major propaganda weapon by
contributing to the Leyenda Negra (Black Legend) which lasted, along with the
Inquisition, into the 18th century.


A Protestant heretic appears before the royal A convicted defendant, forced to wear a red
family, his last chance to repent and convert. sanbenito robe, is led away to prison.





















Those who have refused to confess are Auto-da-Fé in the Plaza Mayor
sentenced in public by day, and then
executed before nightfall. This painting by Francisco de Ricci (1683) depicts a trial, or
auto-da-fé – literally, “show of faith” – held in Madrid’s main
square on 30 June 1680. Unlike papal inquisitions elsewhere
in Europe, it was presided over by the reigning monarch,
Carlos II, accompanied by his queen.











Torture was widely used by the
Inquisitors and their assistants to The Procession of the Flagellants (c.1812) by Goya shows the
extract confessions from their abiding influence of the Inquisition on the popular imagination.
victims. This early 19th-century The penitents in the picture are wearing the tall conical hats of
German engraving shows a man heretics tried by the Inquisition. These hats can still be seen in
being roasted on a wheel. Easter Week processions (see p42) throughout Spain.





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Date 5th December 2012
Size 125mm x 217mm

OLD M ADRID  279

5 Iglesia de San
Nicolás de Bari
Plaza de San Nicolás 1. Map 3 C2. Tel 91
559 40 64.  Ópera. Open 8:30am–
1pm, 5:30–8:30pm Mon, 8:30–9:30am,
6:30–8:30pm Tue–Sat, 10am–1:45pm,
6:30–8:45pm Sun & public hols.
Groups should call in advance.
The first mention of the church
of San Nicolás is in a document
of 1202. Its brick tower, with
horseshoe arches, is the oldest
surviving eccle siastical structure
in Madrid. It is thought to be
12th-century Mudéjar in style,
and may have originally been
the minaret of a Moorish mosque.

6 Plaza de Oriente
Map 3 C2.  Ópera.
During his days as king of
Spain, Joseph Bonaparte
(see p67) carved out this stirrup-
shaped space from the jumble
of buildings to the east of the
Palacio Real (see pp280–81),
providing the view of the View of the Catedral de la Almudena and the Royal Palace
palace enjoyed today.
The square was once an and is based on draw ings by 8 Campo del Moro
important meeting place for Velázquez. Across the square is Paseo Virgen del Puerto s/n. Map 3
state occasions; kings, queens the imposing Teatro Real, or A2. Tel 91 454 87 00.  Ópera,
and dictators all made public Teatro de la Ópera, inaugu rated Príncipe Pío. Open Oct–Mar:
appearances on the palace in 1850 by Isabel II. 10am–6pm daily; Apr–Sep:
balcony. The statues of early 10am–8pm daily. Closed 1 & 6 Jan,
kings that stand here were orig- 7 Catedral de la 1 & 15 May, 12 Oct, 9 Nov, 24, 25 &
inally intended for the palace 31 Dec and for official functions.
roof, but proved too heavy. The Almudena ∑ patrimonionacional.es
equestrian statue of Felipe IV C/ Bailén 8–10. Map 3 C2. Tel 91 542
in the centre of the square is 22 00.  Ópera. Open 9am–8:30pm The Campo del Moro (the
by Italian sculptor Pietro Tacca, daily (10am–9pm Jul & Aug); Museum “Field of the Moor”) is a pleasing
& Dome: 10am–2:30pm Mon–Sat. & park, rising steeply from the
7 ∑ catedraldelaalmudena.es Río Manzanares to offer one of
the finest views of the Palacio
Dedicated to the city’s patron, the Real (see pp280–81).
cathedral was begun in 1883 The park has a varied history.
and completed over a century In 1109 a Moorish army led by
later. The Neo-Gothic grey and Ali ben Yusuf camped here, hence
white façade is similar to that of the name. It went on to become
the Palacio Real, which stands a jousting ground for Christian
opposite. The crypt houses a knights. In the late 19th century
16th-century image of the Virgen it was used as a lavish play-
de la Almudena. The dome ground for royal children. Around
offers grand views of the city. the same time it was land scaped
Further along the Calle Mayor in what is described as English
is the site of archaeo logical style, with winding paths, grass
excavations of the remains of and woodland, fountains and
Moorish and medieval city walls. statues. It was reopened to the
The first royal wedding took public in 1931 under the Second
place here between Prince Republic (see p69), closed again
Equestrian statue of Felipe IV, by Pietro Felipe (now King Philip VI) and under Franco, and not reopened
Tacca, Plaza de Oriente Letizia Ortiz in May 2004. until 1978.
For hotels and restaurants in this area see pp568–9 and pp591–3


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280  M ADRID

9 Palacio Real

Madrid’s vast and lavish Royal Palace was built to impress. The
site, on a high bluff over the Río Manzanares, had been occupied
for centuries by a royal fortress, but after a fire in 1734, Felipe V
commissioned a truly palatial replacement. Construc tion lasted
17 years, spanning the reign of two Bourbon monarchs, and
much of the exuberant decor reflects the tastes of Carlos III
and Carlos IV (see p75). The palace was used as a
residence by the royal family until the abdication
of Alfonso XIII in 1931 and is still used today for state
occasions. A new museum of royal collections, being
built next to the palace, is due to open in 2019.




. Dining Room
This gallery was
decorated in
1879. With its
chandeliers, ceiling
paintings and
tapestries, it evokes
the grandeur of
regal Bourbon
entertaining.





. Porcelain Room
The walls and ceiling of
this room, built on the
orders of Carlos III, are
entirely covered in royal
porcelain from the Buen
Retiro factory. Most of the First floor
porcelain is green and
white, and depicts
cherubs and wreaths.
The Hall of
Columns, once used
for royal banquets, is
decorated with
16th-century
bronzes and Roman
imperial busts.



Key to Floorplan . Gasparini Room
Named after its Neapolitan
Exhibition rooms designer, the Gasparini
Entrance rooms Room is decorated with
Carlos III rooms lavish Rococo chinoiserie.
The adjacent antechamber,
Chapel rooms
with painted ceiling and
Carlos IV rooms ornate chandelier, houses
Goya’s portrait of Carlos IV.
For hotels and restaurants in this area see pp568–9 and pp591–3


280-281_EW_Spain.indd 280 26/09/17 11:02 am

OLD M ADRID  281


VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
Practical Information
Calle de Bailén. Map 3 C2.
Tel 91 454 88 00.
Open 10am–8pm daily (Oct–Mar:
to 6pm). Changing of the Guard:
11am–2pm Wed. (The Changing
of the Guard takes place every
30 min). Closed for official
Plaza de la Armería functions, some public hols.
The square in front of the & (free for EU citizens; Apr–Sep:
main entrance also gives Wed & Thu after 6pm); Oct–Mar:
access to the Royal Armoury. Wed & Thu after 4pm. 7 8 -
The outstanding collection of ∑ patrimonionacional.es
weaponry includes the suits
of armour belonging to Transport
Charles V and Felipe II.  Ópera, Principe Pio. @ 3, 25,
39, 148.

Entrance Hall
A marble staircase by
Sabatini, next to the statue
of Carlos III as a Roman
emperor, leads to the main
floor. The painted Rococo
ceiling by Giaquinto vividly
depicts allegorical scenes.

Billiards room





Hall of the Halberdiers
Entrance Pharmacy
This unique collection includes
decorated Talavera pottery
storage jars and herb drawers.
The Pharmacy Museum has recipe
books detailing medications
pre scribed for the royal family.


Visitors’ centre





Plaza de la
Armería

. Throne Room
This room maintains the
original decor of Carlos III.
There are two gold and
scarlet thrones and mirrors
Royal made in the royal glass
Armoury factory of La Granja.




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284  M ADRID


fail to liquefy, it is said that which, for a while, was the
disaster will befall Madrid. The tallest concrete structure in
church was rebuilt by Ventura the world. The most attractive
Rodríguez after a fire in 1767. part of the square is its centre,
occupied by a massive stone
obelisk built in 1928. In front
q Plaza de España of it is a statue of the author
Cervantes (see p337). Below him,
Map 1 C5.  Plaza de España.
Don Quixote (see pp398–9) rides
One of Madrid’s busiest traffic his horse Rocinante while the
intersections and most popular plump Sancho Panza trots
meeting places is the Plaza de alongside on his donkey. On
España, which slopes down the left-hand side is Dulcinea,
towards the Palacio Real (see Don Quixote’s sweetheart.
pp280–81) and the Sabatini
Gardens. In the 18th and
19th centuries the square was w Gran Vía
Entrance to the Convento de la Encarnación occupied by military barracks, Map 2 D5.  Plaza de España, Santo
built here because of the
0 Monasterio de square’s close proximity to Domingo, Callao, Gran Vía.
la Encarnación the palace. However, further A main traffic artery of the
expansion of Madrid resulted modern city, the Gran Vía
Plaza de la Encarnación 1. Map 4 D1. in its becoming a public space. was inaugurated in 1910. Its
Tel 91 454 88 00.  Ópera, Santo The square acquired its construction was executed in
Domingo. Open 10am–2pm, present appearance during the three phases, spanned several
4–6:30pm Tue–Sat, 10am–3pm Sun & Franco period (see pp70–71), decades and required the
public hols. Closed 1 & 6 Jan, Easter, with the construction, on the demolition of large numbers of
1 & 15 May, 27 Jul, 9 Nov, 24, 25 &
31 Dec. & (free Wed and Thu after northern side, of the massive run-down buildings and small
4pm for EU residents). 7 8 Edificio España between 1947 lanes between the Calle de
∑ patrimonionacional.es and 1953. Across the square Alcalá and the Plaza de España.
is the Torre de Madrid (1957), This road-building scheme
Standing in a delightful tree- known as La Jirafa (The Giraffe), soon became the subject of a
shaded square, this tranquil
Augustinian convent was
founded in 1611 for Margaret
of Austria, wife of Felipe III. The
architect, Juan Gómez de Mora,
also built the Plaza Mayor (see
p277) and the façade clearly
reveals his work.
Still inhabited by nuns, the
convent has the atmosphere
of old Castile, with its blue and
white Talavera tiles, wooden
doors, exposed beams and
portraits of royal benefactors.
Inside is a collection of 17th-
century art, with paintings by
José de Ribera and Vincente
Carducho lining the walls.
Polychromatic wooden statues
include Cristo Yacente (Lying
Christ), by Gregorio Fernández.
The convent’s main attraction
is the reliquary chamber with a
ceiling painted by Carducho. It
is used to store the skulls and
bones of saints. There is also
a phial containing the dried
blood of St Pantaleon. Accord-
ing to a popular myth, the
blood liquefies each year on
27 July, the anniversary of the
saint’s death. Should the blood Stone obelisk with statue of Miguel de Cervantes, Plaza de España
Night-time traffic on the Gran Vía, seen from the Plaza de España



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OLD M ADRID  285


e Monasterio de las The Triumph of the Eucharist, is
Descalzas Reales based on cartoons by Rubens.
The tapestries hang in the cloister
Plaza de las Descalzas 3. Map 4 E2. on Good Friday and Corpus
Tel 91 454 88 00.  Sol, Callao. Christi. Major paintings on show
Open 10am–2pm, 4–6:30pm Tue–Sat, include works by Brueghel the
10am–3pm Sun & public hols. Elder, Titian and Zurbarán.
Closed 1 & 6 Jan, Easter, 1 & 15 May,
9 Nov, 24, 25 & 31 Dec. & 8 (free
Wed & Thu after 4pm for EU residents).
∑ patrimonionacional.es
Madrid’s most notable religious
building has a fine exterior in
red brick and granite, and one
of the few surviving examples
of 16th-century architecture.
Around 1560, Felipe II’s sister,
Doña Juana, decided to convert
One of the many 1930s buildings lining the the original medieval palace
Gran Vía which stood here into a convent
for nuns and women of the royal
zarzuela – a comic opera – that household. Her high rank, and
most madrileño of art forms that of her fellow nuns, accounts
(see p326). Nowadays, the Gran for the massive store of art and
Vía is at the centre of city life wealth of the Descalzas Reales
and, following a restoration (Royal Barefoot Sisters).
programme, has become an The stairway has a fresco of
architectural showpiece. Felipe IV’s family looking down,
The most interesting build- as if from a balcony, and a fine Fray Pedro Machado by Zurbarán
ings are clustered at the Alcalá ceiling by Claudio Coello and his r Real Academia
end, starting with the Corin- pupils. It leads up to a first-floor
thian columns, high-level cloister, ringed with chapels con- de Bellas Artes de
statuary and tiled dome of the tain ing works of art relating to San Fernando
Edificio Metrópolis (see p288). the lives of the former nuns. The
A temple with Art Nouveau main chapel houses Doña Juana’s Calle Alcalá 13. Map 7 A2. Tel 91 524
mosaics on its upper levels crowns tomb. The Sala de Tapices has a 08 64.  Banco de España, Gran Via,
No. 1 Gran Vía. One striking series of tapes tries, one woven Sevilla, Sol. Open 10am–3pm Tue–Sun.
feature of buildings at this end in 1627 for Felipe II’s daughter, Closed some pub hols. & (free Wed).
8 by appt. 7 ∑ realacademia
of the street is colon naded Isabel Clara Eugenia. Another, bellasartessanfernando.com/en
galleries on the upper floors,
imitating medieval Aragonese Famous former students of this
and Catalan archi tecture. arts academy, housed in an 18th-
Another is the fine wrought- century building by Churriguera
iron balconies and carved stone (see p29), include Dalí and
details, such as the gargoyle-like Picasso. Its art gallery’s collection
caryatids at No. 12. This part of includes works such as drawings
the Gran Vía has a couple of by Raphael and Titian. Among
old-world Spanish shops. the old masters are paintings by
On the Red de San Luis, an Rubens and Van Dyck. Spanish
intersection of four major roads, artists from the 16th to the 19th
is the Telefónica build ing. The centuries are well represented,
first skyscraper to be erected in with works by Ribera, Murillo,
the capital, built between 1926 El Greco and Velázquez. One of
and 1929, it caused a sensation. the high lights is Zurbarán’s Fray
Beyond here, the Gran Vía Pedro Machado, typical of the
becomes much more American artist’s paintings of monks.
in character, with cinemas, An entire room is devoted
tourist shops and many cafés. to Goya, a former director of
Opposite Callao metro the academy. On show here are
station, on the corner of the his painting of a relaxed Manuel
Calle Jacometrezo, is another Godoy (see p66), the Burial of the
well-known build ing, the Art Sardine (see p43), the grim
Deco Capitol cinema, built in Decorated chapel, Monasterio de las Madhouse, and a self-portrait
the 1930s. Descalzas Reales painted in 1815.
For hotels and restaurants in this area see pp568–9 and pp591–3


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CALLE DE GENSOLA CALLE DE GENOVA DESCUBRIMIENTO GOYA
CALLE DE HERMOSILLA
CALLE DE CLAUDIO COELLO
PLAZA VILLA
CALLE DE
DE PARIS
JARDINES DEL
Colón
PASEO DE RECOLETOS
CALLE DE
JORGE JUAN
C. DE BARBARA DE BRAGANZA
Estación de
Recoletos
CALLE DEL ALMIRANTE RECOLETOS DE SERRANO Serrano CALLE DE LAGASCA
CALLE DE
CALLE DE PRIM
CALLE
Retiro
OLOZAGA
ALCALA
C. DE SALUSTIANO
BARQUILLO
PLAZA
Banco de DE CIBELES CALLE DE
PLAZA DE LA
España INDEPENDENCIA
CALLE DE ALCALA CALLE DE MONTALBAN
PASEO DEL PRADO
CALLE DE LOS MADRAZO CALLE DE ALFONSO XI
Sevilla CALLE DE JUAN DE MENA
CALLE DE ZORRILLA LEALTAD CALLE DE ANTONIO MAURA PASEO SALON DEL ESTANQUE
PLAZA
DE LA
CARRERA DE SAN JERONIMO
CALLE DEL PRADO CANOVAS
PLAZA DE
CORTES DEL CASTILLO CALLE DE MORETO P ARQUE
C. DEL PRINCIPE
DEL RETIRO
CALLE DE LOPE DE VE GA
Antón CALLE DE LAS HUERTAS PA S E O D E L PLAZA DE PASEO DE LA REPUBLICA DE CUBA
Martín CALLE DE MORATIN MURILLO CALLE DE
ESPALTER
PASEO DEL DUQUE FERNAN NUNEZ
C A L L E D E A L F O N S O X I I
REAL JARDÍN
CALLE DEL GOBERNADOR P R A
BOTÁNICO
CALLE DE ALMADEN D O
CALLE DE ATOCHA
CALLE DE CLAUDIO
Atocha MOYANO
PLAZA DEL
EMPERADOR
CARLOS V
CALLE DE SANTA ISABEL
Estación de
Atocha
Atocha
Renfe
C. DE MENDEZ ALVARO
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M ADRID  287

BOURBON MADRID

To the east of Old Madrid, there once lay area to expand and embellish the city
an idyllic district of market gardens known in the 18th century. They built grand
as the Prado, the “Meadow”. In the 16th squares with fountains, a triumphal
century a monastery was built and later gateway, and what was to become the
the Habsburgs extended it to form a Museo del Prado, one of the world’s
palace, of which only fragments now greatest art galleries. Also in the area
remain; the palace gardens are now the is the Museo Nacional Centro de Arte
popular Parque del Retiro (see p301). Reina Sofía, a collection of modern
The Bourbon monarchs chose this Spanish and international art.

Sights at a Glance
Historic Buildings Streets, Squares and Parks
1 Hotel Ritz by Belmond 2 Plaza Cánovas del Castillo
w Real Academia de la Historia 4 Plaza de Cibeles
e Teatro Español u Plaza de Colón
r Ateneo de Madrid i Calle de Serrano
t Congreso de los Diputados p Parque del Retiro
y Café Gijón a Real Jardín Botánico
s Estación de Atocha See also Madrid Street Finder,
maps 5, 6, 7, 8
Museums and Galleries
3 Museo Thyssen-Bornemisza CALLE DE HERMOSILLA
pp292–3 CALLE DE GENOVA
CALLE DE CLAUDIO COELLO
6 Biblioteca Nacional de España CALLE DE GENSOLA PLAZA VILLA CALLE DE
7 Museo Nacional de Artes DE PARIS JARDINES DEL GOYA
Decorativas Colón DESCUBRIMIENTO
8 Salón de Reinos C. DE BARBARA DE BRAGANZA CALLE DE JORGE JUAN
0 Museo del Prado pp296–9 RECOLETOS DE SERRANO Serrano CALLE DE LAGASCA
q Casa-Museo de Lope de Vega CALLE DE Estación de
o Museo Arqueológico Nacional CALLE DEL ALMIRANTE PASEO DE RECOLETOS Recoletos
d Museo Nacional Centro de Arte CALLE DE PRIM
Reina Sofía pp302–3 BARQUILLO
Monuments C. DE SALUSTIANO CALLE Retiro
OLOZAGA
5 Puerta de Alcalá Banco de PLAZA CALLE DE ALCALA
PLAZA DE LA
España DE CIBELES INDEPENDENCIA
Churches
9 Iglesia de San CALLE DE ALCALA
Jerónimo CALLE DE MONTALBAN
el Real CALLE DE LOS MADRAZO CALLE DE ALFONSO XI
Sevilla CALLE DE JUAN DE MENA
CALLE DE ZORRILLA PASEO DEL PRADO LEALTAD CALLE DE ANTONIO MAURA PASEO SALON DEL ESTANQUE
PLAZA
DE LA
CARRERA DE SAN JERONIMO
CALLE DEL PRADO PLAZA DE
CANOVAS
CORTES DEL CASTILLO CALLE DE MORETO P ARQUE
C. DEL PRINCIPE
DEL RETIRO
CALLE DE LOPE DE VE GA
Antón CALLE DE LAS HUERTAS PA S E O D E L PLAZA DE PASEO DE LA REPUBLICA DE CUBA
Martín CALLE DE MORATIN MURILLO CALLE DE
ESPALTER
PASEO DEL DUQUE FERNAN NUNEZ
C A L L E D E A L F O N S O X I I
REAL JARDÍN
CALLE DEL GOBERNADOR P R A
BOTÁNICO
CALLE DE ALMADEN D O
CALLE DE ATOCHA
CALLE DE CLAUDIO
Atocha MOYANO
PLAZA DEL
EMPERADOR
CARLOS V
Estación de
CALLE DE SANTA ISABEL
Atocha 0 metres 200
Atocha 0 yards 200
Renfe
C. DE MENDEZ ALVARO
Memorial to the victims of the 2004 terrorist attacks, Parque del Retiro For keys to symbols see back flap
286-287_EW_Spain.indd 287 26/09/17 11:02 am

288  M ADRID


Street-by-Street: Paseo del Prado

In the late 18th century, before the museums and
lavish hotels of Bourbon Madrid took shape, the
Paseo del Prado was laid out and soon became
a fashionable spot for strolling. Today the Paseo’s
main attraction lies in its museums and art galleries.
Most notable are the Museo del Prado (just south
of the Plaza Cánovas del Castillo) and the Museo
Thyssen-Bornemisza, both displaying world-famous
collections. Among the grand monuments built The Paseo del Prado, based on the
under Carlos III are the Puerta de Alcalá, the Fuente Piazza Navona in Rome, was built by
de Neptuno and the Fuente de Cibeles, which Carlos III as a centre for the arts and
sciences in Madrid.
stand in the middle of busy roundabouts.
Banco de Espaňa Metro P L A Z A D E
C I B
E
B
S A L
E
A R S
I Q
S U
E I
L L
G L
I C A L L E D E A L C A L Á
O
E
D
L
A
V
The Edificio Metrópolis Banco de España C A L L E D E L M A R Q U E S
(see p285), on the corner of
Gran Vía and Calle de Alcalá,
was built in 1910. Its façade C A L L E D E L O S M A D R A Z O
is distinctively Parisian. D
E

C
U
O
B
D
A
S
A
R
P PLAZA DE LA LEALTAD

L
Z O R R I L L A
E
D

O
E
S
P A
3 . Museo Thyssen-Bornemisza
This excellent art collection occupies P LAZ A
the Neo-Classical Villahermosa Palace, DE L AS
completed in 1806. C OR TES
P LAZ A
C ÁNOV AS
t Congreso de los Diputados
Spain’s parliament witnessed the DEL
transition from dictator ship to C ASTILL O C A L L E F E L I P E I V
democracy (see pp72–3).
To Museo
0 metres 100 2 Plaza de Cánovas del Castillo del Prado
In the middle of this large square Hotel Palace
0 yards 100
stands a sculpted fountain of the
god Neptune in his chariot.
For hotels and restaurants in this area see pp568–9 and pp591–3
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BOURBON M ADRID  289



5 . Puerta de Alcalá
Sculpted from granite, this
former gateway into the
city is especially beautiful
when floodlit at night.



Locator Map
Palacio de Comunicaciones
Palacio de See Madrid Street Finder maps 7, 8
Linares and City Hall P L A Z A D E L



C A L L E D E A LC A L Á I N D E P E N D E N C I A A
C I B
P L A Z A D E
E
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F
L
A I
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O
S
N
O 4 . Plaza de Cibeles
F A fountain with a statue of the
CALLE DE MONTALBAN
L
A Roman goddess Cybele stands
in this square.
E
D
E
D E

L

L
E A
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L
A
C
O
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A
R
P PLAZA DE LA LEALTAD
C A L L E A N T O N I O M A U R A
L
E 7 The Museo Nacional de
D Artes Decorativas

O This museum, near the Retiro,
E was founded in 1912 as a
S showcase for the Spanish
R U I Z D E A L A R C O N 8 Salón de Reinos
P A manufacturing industry.
The former army museum,
this section of the Palacio
del Buen Retiro will form
C A L L E F E L I P E I V part of the Prado Museum.
M O R E T O
Casón del Buen
Retiro (see p296)
1 Hotel Ritz by Belmond The Monumento del Dos
With its belle époque interior, de Mayo commemorates Key
this is one of the most the War of Independence
elegant hotels in Spain. against the French (see p67). Suggested route
For keys to symbols see back flap
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290  M ADRID

1 Hotel Ritz by a symbol of Madrid. Around
Belmond the square rise four important
buildings. The most impressive
Plaza de la Lealtad 5. Map 7 C2. are the town hall, where the
Tel 91 701 67 67.  Banco de España. mayor has his office, and the
^ 7 ∑ ritz.es See also p569.
main post office, the Palacio de
Comunicaciones, also home to
A few minutes’ walk from the a cultural centre, CentroCentro.
Prado, this hotel is said to be Its appearance – white, with
Spain’s most extravagant. It was high pinnacles – is often likened
part of the new breed of hotels to a wedding cake. It was built
constructed as luxury accommo- between 1905 and 1917 on
dation for the wedding guests the site of former gardens.
of Alfonso XIII in 1906. On the northeast side is
There is a dress code in the the stone façade of the Palacio
hotel’s public areas. Each room de Linares, built by the Marquis
is beautifully decorated in a Visitors admiring the works of art in the of Linares at the time of the
different style, with carpets Museo Thyssen-Bornemisza second Bourbon restoration of
made by hand at the Real 1875 (see p68). Once threatened
Fábrica de Tapices (see p310). 3 Museo Thyssen- with demo lition, the palace was
At the start of the Civil War Bornemisza reprieved and converted into the
(see pp70–71) the hotel was Casa de América, and now hosts
converted into a hospital, and See pp292–3. art exhibitions by Latin American
it was here that the Anarchist artists as well as theatrical
leader Buenaventura Durruti performances and lectures. Take
died of his wounds in 1936. 4 Plaza de Cibeles a break in the palace gardens
and try one of Le Cabrera’s
Map 7 C1.  Banco de España. excellent cocktails (see p593).
Casa de América exhibition room:
Tel 91 595 48 00. Open 9am–3pm & In the northwest corner of the
4–8pm Mon–Fri. Closed Aug & public Plaza de Cibeles, surround ed by
hols. 8 11am, noon, 1pm Sat & Sun. attractive gardens, is the heavily
∑ casamerica.es guarded Army Head quarters,
which is housed in the buildings
The Plaza de Cibeles is one of the former Palacio de Buena-
of Madrid’s best-known and vista. Commissioned by the
most beautiful landmarks. Duchess of Alba in 1777, const-
The Fuente de Cibeles stands ruction was twice delayed by fire.
in the middle of the busy traf fic On the opposite corner is the
island at the junc tion of the Paseo Banco de España, constru cted
del Prado and the Calle de Alcalá. between 1884 and 1891. Its
This sculpted fountain is named design was inspired by the
after Cybele, the Greco-Roman Venetian Renaissance style,
The Fuente de Neptuno goddess of nature, and shows her with delicate ironwork adorn ing
sitting in her lion-drawn chariot. the roof and windows. Much-
2 Plaza Cánovas Design ed by José Hermosilla and needed renovation work has
del Castillo Ventura Rodríguez in the late returned the bank to its late
18th century, it is considered 19th-century magnificence.
Map 7 C3.  Banco de España.
This busy roundabout is named
after Antonio Cánovas del
Castillo, one of the leading
statesmen of 19th-century
Spain (see p68), who was
assassinated in 1897.
Dominating the plaza is the
Fuente de Neptuno – a fountain
with a statue depict ing
Neptune in his chariot, being
pulled by two horses. The
statue was designed in 1777
by Ventura Rodríguez as part
of Carlos III’s scheme to
beautify eastern Madrid. The Fuente de Cibeles, with the Palacio de Linares in the background
For hotels and restaurants in this area see pp568–9 and pp591–3


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Eyewitness Travel LAYERS PRINTED:
Catalogue template “UK” LAYER
(Source v2.1)
Date 5th December 2012
Size 125mm x 217mm

BOURBON M ADRID  291

7 Museo Nacional
de Artes Decorativas
Calle Montalbán 12. Map 8 D2.
Tel 91 532 64 99.  Retiro, Banco
de España. Open 9:30am–3pm
Tue–Sat (Thu also 5–8pm, except
Jul & Aug), 10am–3pm Sun. Closed
public hols. & (free Thu pm & Sun).
8 Sun (except Jul & Aug). ∑
mnartesdecorativas.mecd.es
Housed in the 19th­century
Palacio de Santoña near the
Parque del Retiro, the National
Museum of Decorative Arts
contains an interesting collec tion
of furniture and objets d’art.
The exhibits are mainly from
Spain and date back as far as
Phoenician times. There are also
some excellent ceramics from
Tala vera de la Reina (see p390),
and ornaments from the Far East.
Refurbishment work may
affect some rooms.

8 Salón de Reinos
Calle Méndez Núñez 1. Map 8 D2.
 Retiro, Banco de España.
Closed for refurbishment.
The Salón de Reinos (Hall
of Kingdoms) is one of the
Central arch of the Puerta de Alcalá two remaining parts of the
17th­century Palacio del Buen
5 Puerta de Alcalá 6 Biblioteca Retiro and gets its name from
Nacional de España the shields of the 24 kingdoms
Map 8 D1.  Retiro.
of the Spanish monarchy, part
This ceremonial gateway is Paseo de Recoletos 20–22. Map 6 D5. of the decor supervised by
the grandest of the monu­ Tel 91 580 78 00. Open 9am–9pm court painter Velázquez (see
ments erected by Carlos III Mon–Fri, 9am–2pm Sat. Open for p36). In the time of Felipe IV,
exhibitions only Sun. Closed public
in his attempt to improve hols. 8 5pm Tue & Fri, noon Sat. the Salón was used for
the looks of eastern Madrid. 7 ∑ bne.es diplomatic receptions
It was designed by Francesco and official ceremonies.
Sabatini to replace a smaller King Philip V of Spain founded
Baroque gateway, which had the National Library in 1712.
been built by Felipe III for the Since then, it has been
entry into Madrid of his wife, mandatory for printers to
Margarita de Austria. submit a copy of every book
Construction of the gate printed in Spain. Currently it
began in 1769 and lasted nine holds some 28 million
years. It was built from granite publications, plus a large
in Neo­Classical style, with a number of maps, musical
lofty pediment and sculpted scores and audiovisual records.
angels. It has five arches – Jewels include a first­edition
three central and two Don Quixote and two
outer rectangular ones. handwritten codes by da Vinci.
Until the mid­19th century A museum looks at the
the gateway marked the city’s history of the library as well
easternmost boundary. It now as the evolution of writing,
stands in the busy Plaza de la reading and media systems.
Independencia, and is best The library also holds regular
seen when floodlit at night. exhibitions, talks and concerts. Impressive façade of the Salón de Reinos




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3 Museo Thyssen-Bornemisza

This magnificent museum is based on the collection
assembled by Baron Heinrich Thyssen-Bornemisza and his
son, Hans Heinrich, the preceding baron. In 1992 it was
installed in Madrid’s 18th-century Villahermosa Palace, and
was sold to the nation the following year. From its beginnings
in the 1920s, the collection was intended to illustrate the
history of Western art, from Italian and Flemish primitives, . The Virgin of the
through to 20th-century Expressionism and Pop Art. The Dry Tree (c.1465)
museum’s collection, consisting of more than 1,000 paintings, This tiny painted panel is
includes master pieces by Titian, Goya, van Gogh and Picasso. by Bruges master Petrus
Carmen Thyssen’s collection of mainly Impressionist art Christus. The letter 1
A hanging from the tree
opened to the public in 2004. It is regarded by many critics stands for “Ave Maria”. 2
as the most important private art collection in the world.
3
Hotel Room (1931) 4
Edward Hopper’s painting is a 7
study of urban isolation. The 5
solitude is made less static by the
suitcases and the train timetable 22 8
on the woman’s knee. 23 9
24
6
Key to Floorplan 25
Ground floor 26
First floor 40
Second floor 39
Gallery Guide Temporary exhibitions 27 28
The galleries are arranged around Non-exhibition space 38
a covered central courtyard, which 29
rises the full height of the building. 41 30
The top floor starts with early Italian art 42
and goes through to the 17th century. 31
The first floor continues the story with 43
17th-century Dutch works and ends with
German Express ionism. The ground floor 32
is dedicated to 20th-century paintings. 44 45 33 35

34
46 47 48












Portrait of Baron
. Harlequin with a Mirror Thyssen-Bornemisza
The figure of the harlequin was a This informal portrait
frequent subject of Picasso’s. The of the previous baron,
careful composition in this 1923 against the back-
canvas, which is thought by some to ground of a Watteau
represent the artist himself, is typical painting, was painted
of Picasso’s “Classical” period. by Lucian Freud.
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BOURBON M ADRID  293


. Venus and Cupid VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
This reflection of ideal
beauty was painted by Practical Information
the Flemish master Paseo del Prado 8. Map 7 C2.
Rubens between 1606 Tel 902 760 511. Open noon–
and 1611. The picture 4pm Mon, 10am–7pm Tue–Sun;
illustrates his luscious Jun–mid-Sep: to 10pm Tue–Sat,
use of colour and form. to 7pm Sun & Mon for temp
exhibs. Closed 1 Jan, 1 May &
25 Dec. & advance bookings
online or by phone. 7 8
(free Mon). - d = 0
∑ museothyssen.org
Second floor Transport
 Banco de España, Sevilla. @
1
1, 2, 5, 9, 10, 14 and many others.


7 21 20
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19
E
8
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9 F
A
10
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G
6
17
18
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16
11
40
15
12
39
N
14
O
38
M
13
L
P St Casilda (c.1630–35)
Francisco de Zurbarán is known
K
for his depictions of monks and
I
saints. In this work, St Casilda’s
J
37
brightly coloured robe stands out
against the plain background.
36
35
33
34
First floor
Ground floor
Main
entrance
Autumn Landscape
in Oldenburg
Karl Schmidt-Rottluff was Mata Mua
a member of the Brücke Painted in 1892, during a stay
Expressionist group, on the Marquesas Islands,
founded in Dresden in Gauguin’s colourful depiction
1905. He painted this of a Tahitian paradise is one
north German landscape of his most highly regarded
two years later. works of this period.
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294  M ADRID

9 Iglesia de San church was originally attached
Jerónimo el Real to the Hieronymite monastery.
The cloister and part of the
Calle del Moreto 4. Map 8 D3. atrium now form part of a
Tel 91 420 30 78.  Banco de España. building at the Prado Museum.
Open 9:30am–2:30pm & 5:30–8pm The marriage of Alfonso XIII
Mon–Sat (Apr–Sep: 6–8pm); and Victoria Eugenia of Batten­
weekends: open for ceremonies. 7
berg took place here in 1906,
Built in the 16th century for as did King Juan Carlos I’s
Queen Isabel, but since coronation in 1975.
remodelled, San Jerónimo is
Madrid’s royal church. From the
17th century it became virtually 0 Museo del Prado
a part of the Retiro palace which See pp296–9.
once stood here (see p301). The Portrait of the writer Félix Lope de Vega
q Casa-Museo almost 1,000. Meticulously
de Lope de Vega restored in 1935 using some of
Lope de Vega’s own furniture,
Calle Cervantes 11. Map 7 B3. the house gives a great feeling
Tel 91 429 92 16.  Antón Martín, of Castilian life in the early 17th
Sevilla. Open 10am–6pm Tue–Sun. century. A dark chapel with no
Closed some public hols. ^ 8 only external windows occupies the
(available in English). ∑ casamuseo
lopedevega.org centre, separated from the
writer’s bedroom by only a
Félix Lope de Vega, a leading barred window. The small
Golden Age writer (see p38), garden at the rear is planted
moved into this house in 1610. with the flowers and fruit trees
Here he wrote over two­thirds mentioned by the writer in his
of his plays, thought to total works. He died here in 1635.

Castizos during San Isidro
Madrid’s Fiestas
San Isidro (15 May). Madrid’s
great party around 15 May
is in honour of St Isidore,
the humble 12th­century
farmworker who became
the city’s patron. With a
corrida every day, this is
Spain’s biggest bullfighting
event. Throughout the city
there are also art exhibitions,
open­air concerts and fire­
works. Many people dress
in castizo (see p306) folk
costume for the occasion.
The Passion (Easter Saturday),
Chinchón. A passion play
is performed in the town’s
atmospheric arcaded
Plaza Mayor.
Dos de Mayo (2 May). This
holiday marks the city’s
uprising against Napoleon’s
troops in 1808 (see p67).
New Year’s Eve. The nation
focuses on the Puerta del
Sol (see p276) at midnight
as crowds gather to swallow
a grape on each chime of
the clock.
Statue of Goya in front of the Prado
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BOURBON M ADRID  295

t Congreso de
los Diputados
Plaza de las Cortes. Map 7 B2.
Tel 91 390 65 25.  Sevilla.
Open by appt only. 9am–2:30pm
& 4–6:30pm Mon–Thu, 9am–1:30pm
Fri. ^ 7 ∑ congreso.es
This imposing yet attractive
building is home to the Span­
ish parliament, the Cortes. Built
in the mid­19th century, it
is characterized by Classical
columns, heavy ped iments and
guardian bronze lions. It was
here, in 1981, that Colonel
Tejero of the Civil Guard held
the deputies at gunpoint on
Sunlit balcony of the magnificent Teatro Español national televi sion, as he tried
to spark off a military coup (see
w Real Academia Villanueva. Engraved on it are p72). His failure was seen as an
de la Historia the names of great Spanish indica tion that democracy was
dramatists, including that of now firmly established in Spain.
Calle León 21. Map 7 A3. celebrated writer Federico
Tel 91 429 06 11.  Antón Martín. García Lorca (see p39).
^ Closed to the public. ∑ rah.es
r Ateneo de
The Royal Academy of History is
an austere brick building built Madrid
by Juan de Villanueva in 1788. Calle del Prado 21. Map 7 B3.
Its location, in the so­called Tel 91 429 17 50.  Antón Martín,
Barrio de las Letras (Writers’ Sevilla. Open by appt 10am–1pm
Quarter), is apt. Mon–Fri. 8 only.
In 1898, the intellectual and ∑ ateneodemadrid.com
bibliophile, Marcelino Menéndez
Pelayo, became di rector of the Formally founded in 1835, this
academy, living here until his learned association is similar to
death in 1912. The library holds a gentle men’s club in atmos­
more than 200,000 books. phere, with a grand stairway Bronze lion guarding the Cortes
The building is closed to the and panelled hall hung with
public and can only be viewed the portraits of famous fellows.
from the outside. Closed down during past y Café Gijón
periods of repress ion and Paseo de Recoletos 21. Map 5 C5.
dictatorship, it is a main stay of
e Teatro Español liberal thought in Spain. Many Tel 91 521 54 25.  Banco de España.
Open 7:30am–1:30am daily. 7
leading Socialists are mem bers, ∑ cafegijon.com
Calle del Príncipe 25. Map 7 A3.
Tel 91 360 14 80.  Sol, Sevilla. along with writers and other
Open per formances from 7pm Tue– Spanish intellectuals. Madrid’s bustling café life (see
Sun. & 7 ∑ teatroespanol.es pp324–5) was one of the most
attractive features of the city
Dominating the Plaza Santa from the turn of the 20th
Ana is the Teatro Español, one century, right up to the
of Madrid’s oldest and most outbreak of the Civil War. Of
beautiful theatres. From 1583 the many intellectuals’ cafés
many of Spain’s finest plays, which once thrived, only the
by leading dramatists of the Gijón survives. Today the café
time such as Lope de Rueda, continues to attract a lively
were first performed in the crowd of literati. With its
Corral del Príncipe, which cream­painted wrought­iron
originally stood on this site. columns and black and white
In 1802 this was replaced by tabletops, it is perhaps better
the Teatro Español. The Neo­ known for its atmos phere
Classical façade, with pilasters Carving on the façade of the Ateneo and emanating history than
and medallions, is by Juan de de Madrid for its appearance.



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296  M ADRID

0 Museo del Prado

The Prado Museum contains the world’s
greatest assembly of Spanish painting –
especially works by Velázquez and Goya –
ranging from the 12th to 19th centuries.
It also houses impressive foreign collections,
particularly of Italian and Flemish works. . Velázquez Collection
The Neo-Classical building was designed in The Triumph of Bacchus
1785 by Juan de Villanueva on the orders of (1629), Velázquez’s
Carlos III, and it opened as a museum in first portrayal of a
1819. The Spanish architect Rafael Moneo mythological subject,
shows the god of
has constructed a new building, over the wine (Bacchus) with
adjacent church’s cloister, where the tem p- a group of drunkards.
orary exhibitions are located. The Casón
del Buen Retiro, now the Prado library, can
be visited with a guided tour on Sundays.
Second
floor



The Martyrdom of
St Philip
(c.1639) José de Ribera
was influenced by
Caravaggio’s dramatic
use of light and shadow,
known as chiaroscuro,
as seen in this work.

The Adoration of the
Shepherds (1612–14)
This dramatic work shows the
elongated figures and swirling
garments typical of El Greco’s
style. It was painted during his
late Mannerist period for his First floor
own funerary chapel.






Ticket
office
Key to Floorplan
Spanish painting
Flemish and Dutch painting
Italian painting
French painting
German painting
British painting
The Garden of Delights (c.1505) Hieronymus Bosch Sculpture Goya entrance
(El Bosco in Spanish), one of Felipe II’s favourite artists, Decorative arts (upstairs)
is especially well repre sented in the Prado. This Non-exhibition space
enigmatic painting depicts Paradise and Hell.
For hotels and restaurants in this area see pp568–9 and pp591–3


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MUSEO DEL PR ADO  297


VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
Practical Information
Paseo del Prado. Map 7 C3.
Tel 902 10 70 77.
Open 10am–8pm Mon–Sat,
10am–7pm Sun & public hols,
last entry 30 min before closing.
Closed 1 Jan, 1 May, 25 Dec.
& (free entry last 2 hours of day).
7 8 0 - d =
The Three Graces (c.1635) ∑ museodelprado.es
This was one of the last
paintings by the Flemish Transport
master Rubens, and was part  Atocha, Banco de España.
of his own collection. @ 10, 14, 19, 27, 34, 37, 45.
The women dancing in a ring
the Graces – are the daughters
of Zeus, and represent Love,
Joy and Revelry.


Ground
floor











Murillo . Goya Collection
entrance In The Clothed Maja and The Naked Maja
(both c.1800), Goya tackled the taboo
The Dolphin’s Treasure is subject of nudity, for which he was later
a spectacular collection of accused of obscenity.
decorative objects from the
16th and 17th centuries.
Gallery Guide
The museum’s permanent collection is arranged chronologically
over three main floors. Classical sculpture is on the ground floor,
Velázquez on the first floor, and the extensive Goya collection across
Velázquez the Murillo side of all three floors. The permanent collection
entrance is accessed via the Velázquez and Goya entrances. Visitors to the
temporary exhibitions should use the Jerónimos entrance.
Casón del Jerónimos
Buen Retiro Building Changes at the Prado
Underground link
The Jerónimos Building
C A L L E D E M O R E T O houses temporary exhibitions
Villanueva Building
and Renaissance sculptures,
as well as a shop, restaurant,
café, auditorium and cloak­
room. In the future the Salón
The Annunciation Jerónimos PA S E O D E L P R A D O de Reinos (see p291) may also
become part of the Prado.
Fra Angelico’s work of entrance
c.1425–8 is a high point C A L L E D E F E L I P E I V
of Italy’s early Renaissance, Museum buildings
as illustrated by the detailed
architectural setting.


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Exploring the Prado’s Collection

The importance of the Prado is founded on its royal collections.
The wealth of foreign art, including many of Europe’s finest
works, reflects the historical power of the Spanish crown.
The Low Countries and parts of Italy were under Spanish
domination for centuries. The 18th century was an era of
French influence, following the Bourbon accession to the
Spanish throne. The Prado is worthy of repeated visits, but if
you go only once, see the Spanish works of the 17th century.

in Maderuelo, which show a
Romanesque heaviness of line
and forceful characterization.
Spanish Gothic art can be
seen in the Prado in the works
of Bartolomé Bermejo and Saturn Devouring One of his Sons (1820–23)
Fernando Gallego. The sense by Francisco de Goya
of realism in their paintings
was borrowed from Flemish an impressive collection,
masters of the time. including The Nobleman with
Renaissance features began his Hand on his Chest.
to emerge in the works of The Golden Age of the 17th
painters such as Pedro de century was a productive time
Berruguete, whose auto-da-fé for Spanish art. José de Ribera,
is both chilling and lively. St who lived in (Spanish) Naples,
Catherine, by Fernando Yáñez followed Caravaggio in comb-
de la Almedina, shows the ining realism of character with
influence of Leonardo da Vinci, the techniques of chiaroscuro
for whom Yáñez probably (use of light and dark) and
worked while training in Italy. tenebrism (large areas of dark
St Dominic of Silos Enthroned as Abbot What is often considered as colours, with a shaft of light).
(1474–7) by Bermejo a truly Spanish style – with its Another master who used this
highly wrought emotion and method was Francisco Ribalta,
deepening sombreness – first whose Christ Embracing St
Spanish Painting
started to emerge in the 16th Bernard is here. Zurbarán,
Right up to the 19th century, century in the paintings of the known for still lifes and por traits
Spanish painting focused on Mannerists. This is evident in of saints and monks, is also
religious and royal themes. Pedro Machuca’s fierce Descent represented in the Prado.
Although the limited subject from the Cross and in the This period, however, is best
matter was in some ways a Madonnas of Luis de Morales, represented by the work of
restriction, it also offered a “the Divine”. The elongation of Diego de Velázquez. As Spain’s
sharp focus that seems to have the human figure in Morales’ leading court painter from his
suited Spanish painters. work is carried to a greater late twenties until his death, he
Spain’s early medieval art is extreme by Domenikos produced scenes of heightened
represented somewhat sketchily Theotocopoulos, who is better realism, royal portraits, and
in the Prado, but there are known as El Greco (see p395). religious and mythological
some examples, such as the Although many of his master- paintings. Examples of his art
anonymous mural paintings pieces remain in his adopted are displayed in the Prado. His
from the Holy Cross hermitage town of Toledo, the Prado has greatest work is perhaps Las
Meninas (see p36), in Room 12.
Another great Spanish
painter, Goya, revived Spanish
art in the 18th century. He first
specialized in cartoons for
tapestries, then became a court
painter. His work went on to
embrace the horrors of war, as
seen in The 3rd of May in Madrid
(see p67), and culminated in a
sombre series known as The
Still Life with Four Vessels (c.1658–64) by Francisco de Zurbarán Black Paintings.
For hotels and restaurants in this area see pp568–9 and pp591–3


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