(DK Eyewitness) Travel Guide - Spain

SE VILLE  449

FURTHER AFIELD

The north of Seville, La Macarena, is a the most striking legacies of this upsurge of
characterful mix of decaying Baroque and Andalucían pride. Nearby is the Royal Tobacco
Mudéjar churches, and old-style tapas bars. Factory, forever associated with the fictional
The place to visit here is the Basílica de la gypsy heroine Carmen, who toiled in its sultry
Macarena, a shrine to Seville’s much- halls. Today, it is part of the Universidad,
venerated Virgen de la Esperanza Macarena. Seville’s university. There is more to see across
Among the many convents and churches the river from the city centre. With its cobbled
in the area, the Convento de Santa Paula streets and shops selling ceramics, the Triana
offers a rare opportunity to peep behind quarter retains the feel of old Seville. In the
the walls of an enclosed community. 15th century a Carthusian monastery, the
The area south of the city is dominated Monasterio de Santa María de las Cuevas,
by the extensive, leafy Parque María Luisa. was built north of Triana. Columbus resided
A large part of the park originally formed the there and the area around it, the Isla de la
grounds of the Baroque Palacio de San Telmo. Cartuja, was chosen as the site for Expo ’92.
Many of the historic build ings in the park were Today the site is home mainly to offices but
erected for the Ibero-American Exposition of the Isla Mágica amusement park, Teatro
1929. The grand five-star Hotel Alfonso XIII Central and the Torre Sevilla, the tallest
and the crescent-shaped Plaza de España are building in Andalucía, are also located here.

Sights at a Glance
Churches and Convents
1 Basílica de la Macarena 0 kilometres 1
2 Convento de Santa Paula
3 Iglesia de San Pedro 0 miles 0.5
Historic Buildings Córdoba
5 Palacio de las Dueñas Sights Outside
6 Palacio de San Telmo the City Centre
7 Universidad CRUZ ROJA
0 Torre Sevilla La Macarena
w Cámara Oscura, Torre de Cartuja Aeropuerto
Los Perdigones Guadalquivir CALLE DEL TORNEO SAN LUIS Carmona
Historic Areas CAP UCHINOS
4 Metropol Parasol
8 Parque María Luisa
9 Triana Estacion Estación de
Santa Justa
q Isla de la Cartuja Plaza ALFONSO XII
de Armas
Granada
Huelva ARJONA
El
MENENDEZ PELAYO EDUARDO DATO
Arenal
Santa LUIS M ONTO TO
Cruz
CONSTITUCION
San
Triana Bernardo
Estación del
Prado de
REPUBLICA ARGENTINA PASEO
San Sebastian
Key
City centre San Bernardo
Parks and open spaces VIRGEN DE LUJAN DE

Major road Los
Remedios LAS
Minor road Guadalquivir D
ELICIAS
AVENIDA DE GARCIA MO R ATO
Cádiz
Colourful ceramic tiles in Plaza de España, Parque María Luisa, Seville For keys to symbols see back flap
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450  SE VILLE


are St John the Evangelist and St offer a peaceful oasis from the
John the Baptist, both the work bustle of the streets. The house’s
of Juan Martínez Montañés. grand rooms are filled with
elegant period furniture, but
there are also family photos and
3 Iglesia de San personal letters scattered about,
Pedro plus a room dedicated to the
history of the Feria de Abril.
Pl San Pedro. Map 2 D5. Tel 954 21 68
58. @ 10, 11, 12, 15, 16, 20, 24, 27, 32,
C5. Open 9am, 11am & 8pm Mon–Sat, 6 Palacio de
10am, 11am, noon, 1pm, 8pm Sun. 7
San Telmo
This church features a mix of
architectural styles; Mudéjar Avenida de Roma. Map 3 C3. Tel 955
elements survive in the lobed 00 10 10.  v Puerta de Jerez.
brickwork of its tower, which is @ C3, C4, C5, 3, 5, 6, 41. 8 Thu,
surmounted by a Baroque (see Sat & Sun by appt. 7 ^
p29) belfry, and the interior has
St John the Baptist by Montañés in the a Mudéjar wooden ceiling. The This imposing palace, named
Convento de Santa Paula vault of one of its chapels is after the patron saint of navi-
decorated with exquisite geo- gators, was built in 1682 as a
1 Basílica de metric patterns of bricks. Diego university to train ships’ pilots,
la Macarena Velázquez, the Golden Age
painter (see p36), was baptized
Calle Bécquer 1. Map 2 D3. Tel 954 90 in this church in 1599. 8 Parque María Luisa
18 00. @ C1–5, 2, 10, 13, 14. Open Behind the church, in Calle
9am–2pm, 5–9pm daily (from 9:30am Doña María Coronel, cakes are Map 4 D4.  v Prado de San
Sun). Closed Easter Fri. & (museum). Sebastián. Museo Arqueológico:
sold from a revolving drum in Tel 955 12 06 32. Open 9am–7:30pm
Built in 1949 by Gómez Millán, the wall of the 14th-century Tue–Sat (9am–2:30pm Jun–mid-Sep),
the Basílica de la Macarena is Convento de Santa Inés. 9am–2:30pm Sun. Closed 1 & 6 Jan,
Neo-Baroque in style and was 1 May, 24, 25 & 31 Dec. & (free for
intended as a new home for EU citizens). & Museo de Artes y
the much-loved Virgen de la 4 Metropol Parasol Costumbres Populares: Tel 955 54
Esperanza Macarena. It backs on Plaza de la Encarnación. Map 2 D5. 29 51. Open as above. & ^ 7
to the 13th-century Iglesia de San @ C5, 10, 11, 12, 15, 16, 20, 24, 27, 32.
Gil, where the image was housed Observation deck & walkways: Tel 95 Princess Maria Luisa donated
until a fire broke out in 1936. 456 15 12. Open 10am–11pm daily part of the grounds of the
The image of the Virgin, (to 11:30pm Fri & Sat. & Museum: Tel Palacio de San Telmo to the
standing above the main altar 955 47 15 80. Open 10am–7:30pm city for this park in 1893.
amid waterfalls of gold and Tue–Sun (to 1:30pm Sun & pub hols). Landscaped by Jean
silver, has been attributed to & 7 ∑ setasdesevilla.com
Luisa Roldán (1656–1703), the Plaza de
most talented female artist of Known locally as “Las Setas” (“The España was
the Seville School. Mushrooms”), this ultramodern built in a
The Virgin’s magnificent pro- structure with a latticed canopy theatrical style
cessional gowns and jewels are was built from 2005–2011, and by Aníbal
held in the Treasury museum. includes a museum, market, González.
bars and restaurants. The main
2 Convento de draw is the observation deck.
Santa Paula
5 Palacio de las
Calle Santa Paula 11. Map 2 E5. Tel 95 Dueñas
453 63 30. @ C1, C2, C3, C4, C5, 10,
11. Open 10am–1pm Tue–Sun. & 8 Calle Dueñas 5. Map 2 D5. @ C5, 10,
11, 12, 15, 16, 20, 24, 27, 32. Tel 954
Founded in 1475, Santa Paula is 21 48 28. Open 10am–5:15pm daily
a working convent and home to (Apr–Sep: to 7:15pm). Closed 1 & 6
about 30 nuns. The museum Jan, 25 Dec. & (free after 4pm Mon). The Glorieta
consists of two galleries filled de Bécquer
with religious artifacts and Built in Renaissance style with is an arbour with
paintings. The nave of the Mudejar and Gothic influences, sculpted figures
convent church has an elaborate this 15th-century palace is the depicting the phases of
wooden roof, dating from 1623. official Seville residence of love – a tribute to poet
Among the statues in the church the Dukes of Alba. Its courtyards Gustavo Adolfo Bécquer.
For hotels and restaurants in this area see pp571–2 and pp597–8


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FUR THER AFIELD  451


navigators and high-ranking 7 Universidad
officers. In 1849 it became the Calle San Fernando 4. Map 3 C3.
residence of the Dukes of Tel 954 55 11 23.  Puerta de Jerez.
Monpensier and until 1893 its v Puerta de Jerez or Prado de San
grounds included what is now Sebas tian. @ C1, C2, C3, C4, 5, 21,
Parque María Luisa. Today it is 22, 25, 26, 28, 29, 30, 31, 34, 37, 38.
the presidential headquarters Open 8am–8:30pm Mon–Fri. Closed
of the Junta de Andalucía public hols. 8 (free, 11am Mon–Thu,
(the regional government). except Aug). ∑ us.es
The most striking feature of
the Palacio de San Telmo is the The former Real Fábrica de
exuberant Churrigueresque Tabacos (Royal Tobacco Factory)
portal designed by Leonardo de is now part of Seville University.
Figueroa, and completed in 1734. In the 19th century, three-
Surrounding the Ionic columns quarters of Europe’s cigars were
are allegorical figures represent- manufactured here, rolled by Baroque fountain in one of the patios
ing the Sciences and Arts. 10,000 cigarreras (female cigar- in the Universidad
Opposite is Seville’s most makers) – the inspiration for
famous hotel, the Alfonso XIII, French author Mérimée’s Carmen. watchtowers are evidence
dating from the 1920s. Non- Built in 1728–71, the factory of the importance given to
residents are welcome to visit complex is the third-largest protecting the king’s lucrative
the bar and the restaurant. build ing in Spain. The moat and tobacco monopoly.

Forestier, director of the the latter, in the Pabellón
Bois de Boulogne in Paris, the Mudéjar, the Museo de Artes
park was the leafy setting for y Costumbres Populares dis-
the 1929 Ibero-American plays traditional Andalucían
Exposition. The legacies of this folk arts. The Neo-Renaissance
extrava ganza are the Plaza de Pabellón de las Bellas Artes
España, decorated with regional houses the provincial Museo
scenes on ceramic tiles, and Arqueológico. Exhibits include
the Plaza de América, both the statues and fragments found
work of Aníbal González. On at Itálica (see p482).
Fuente de los
Leones Plaza de Museo Arqueológico
América














Pabellón Real








The Isleta de los Patos
sits in a lake graced by
ducks and swans. Museo de Artes y Costumbres Populares




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452  SE VILLE

q Isla de la Cartuja
Jorge, is largely tasteful
and avoids sensational Map 1 B3. ∑ caac.es @ C1, C2.
images, concluding with Monasterio de Santa María de las
a presentation on human Cuevas: Open Tue–Sun. & 7
rights today. Nearby is Centro Andaluz de Arte Contem-
one of the characteristic poráneo: Tel 95 503 70 70. Open Tue–
streets of the area, the Sun. & (free Tue for EU citizens). Isla
Calle Rodrigo de Triana, Mágica: Tel 902 16 17 16. Open Apr:
named after the Anda- Sat & Sun; May: Thu, Sat & Sun; Jun &
lucían sailor who was Jul: Tue–Sun; Aug–mid-Sep: daily;
mid-Sep–Oct: Sat, Sun. Closed Nov–
the first to sight the mid-Apr. & 7 ∑ islamagica.es
shores of the New World
on Columbus’s voyage The site of Expo ’92 (see pp72–3),
of 1492. this area has since been trans-
The Iglesia de Santa formed into a sprawling complex
Ana, founded in the 13th of exhibition halls, museums and
century, is Triana’s most entertainment and leisure spaces.
Decorative tiles at Centro Cerámica Triana, a museum popular church. In the The 15th-century Monasterio
dedicated to the arts of ceramics baptistry is the Gypsy de Santa María de las Cuevas,
Font, believed to pass inhabited by monks until 1836,
9 Triana on the gift of flamenco song to now houses the Centro Andaluz
the children of the faithful. de Arte Contemporáneo, which
Map 3 A2.  Plaza de Cuba, Parque contains works by Andalucían
de los Príncipes. @ C1, C2, C3. artists, plus Spanish and inter-
This close-knit area, named after 0 Torre Sevilla national art. Free jazz jam
the Roman Emperor Trajan, was Calle Gonzalo Jiménez de Quesada 2. sessions take place in the
once Seville’s gypsy quarter. Map 1 A5. @ C1, C2, 6, 43. patio of the café on Sundays.
Triana remains a traditional The centrepiece of Expo, the
working-class district, with Designed by the Argentine Lago de España, is part of the
compact, flower-filled streets. architect César Pelli, this Isla Mágica theme park. This
For centuries it has been famous 40-storey tower was the re-creates the journeys and
for its potteries and associations subject of much controversy exploits of the explorers who left
with flamenco . Visit the museum while in its planning stages. Seville in the 16th century for the
dedicated to this fine craft at Despite UNESCO voting against New World. Isla Mágica also has
Centro Cerámica Triana (Calle its construction, due to its a water park, the Agua Mágica.
Antillano Campos 14), formerly obstruction of the skyline, the
the factory of the Cerámica Torre Sevilla now presides over
Santa Ana shop. Among other the Guadalquivir River, offering w Cámara Oscura
displays, you can admire tiles commanding panoramic views. Torre de los Perdigones, Calle Resolana.
decorated by the famous Anibal It is the tallest building in Map 2 D3. @ C1, C2, C3, C4, C5, 2, 13,
Gonzalez, before seeing the Andalucía and will house a 14. Tel 679 09 10 73. Open noon–5pm
kilns used (some dating from five-star hotel on the top 13 Tue–Sun (closed when raining). &
the 16th century), plus tools floors. The remaining floors
and materials. will primarily be devoted to This huge camera obscura uses
A good way to approach office space. mirrors and magnifying lenses
Triana is across the Puente de An adjacent shopping centre to display an image of the
Isabel II, leading to the Plaza del will host 80 shops, two super- surrounding area. The Tower
Altozano. The Museo de la markets and 27 restaurants, of Perdigones also offers
Inquisición, in Castillo de San with a garden roof. scenic views of the city.














Main entrance of the Carthusian Monasterio de Santa María de las Cuevas, founded in 1400
For hotels and restaurants in this area see p571–2 and p597–8


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SE VILLE  453

SEVILLE STREET FINDER


The map references given with the sights (pp597–8). The schematic map below shows
described in the Seville section of the the area of Seville covered by the Street
guide refer to the maps on the following Finder. The symbols used for the sights and
pages. Map references are also given for other features are listed in the key at the foot
Seville hotels (see pp571–2) and restaurants of the page.






URBANA NORTE
VIADUCTO DEL ALAMILLO
NUEVA TORNEO DOCTOR FEDRIANI




G u a d a l q u i v i r SAN LUIS AVENDIA DE LA BARZOLA
CALLE DEL TORNEO



ALFONSO XII


El Santa LUIS M ONTOTO
ARJONA
Arenal Cruz EDUARDO DATO

REPUBLICA ARGENTINA ENRAMADILLA
DIEGO MARTINEZ BARRIOS
VIRGEN DE LUJAN PASEO DE LAS DELICIAS



Guadalquivir



0 kilometres 1
0 miles 0.5
Key
Major sight Tourist information
Place of interest Hospital with casualty unit
Other building Police station
Railway station Church
Metro station Convent or monastery Scale of Map Pages
Tram stop Railway line 0 metres 250
Bus station Pedestrianized street 0 yards 250
River bus boarding point






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E U C A L I P T O F R E S N O A L M E Z MEDINA Y GALNARES CEMENTERIO DE
SAN FERNANDO



Puente de MEMBRILLO CALLE DE CIDRO D E
NARANJO
la Corta
V I A D U C T O D E L A L A M I L L O C A M I N O P O E T A F E R N A N D O D E L O S R I O S
MOGUER
DIAZ
Puente del AVDA DEL ROMANTICISMO R O N D A U R B A N A N O R T E
CARMEN F R A
Alamillo
BLASCO
IBAÑEZ
PL ENRIQUE MORILLO
HERMANO PABLO
O D DE AL M AG R O VALDES C A Z A L L A D E L A S I E R R A
VIRGEN DE ESCARDIEL
I r GOTA DE ROCIO CARLOS OROTAVA F ARDAVIN B E R M E J O
C i RUBI I Z J U A N A V E N I D A ARNICHES
J O S E
U P i v VENTA DE LOS GATOS CUEVA DE P A G A T A FEDRIANI GASPAR DE ALVEAR MELENDEZ Y S E R A F I N M A D R I D
MARACAIBO
AMATISTA
CORAL
LA MORA
M DE VERUELA
PIDAL
DR HERRERA
V E S q u Z A F I R O AGUAMARINA TOPACIO DR MOROTE CALAFAT P E D R O RIO DE JANEIRO TRUJILLO MENENDEZ B A R Z O L A
CARMONA
l BRILLANTE A V E N I D A DIEGO PUERTA PUERTO RICO
I a ESMERALDA CALLE ABOGADO
I S d CALLE DIAMANTE R MEDINA ALFALFA DE SANCHO L A
I O OPALO MALAQUITA TOR MARQUES DE LOZOYA AVENIDA DAVILA
a
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TOMAS ALBA EDISON T AVENIDA DEL CONCEJAL ALBERTO JIMENEZ BECERRIL S A N C H E Z G R A N AT E TURMALINA VALDELAGRANA G U A L D E
O L E O N A R D O D A V I N C I N AVENIDA ÁLVARO u GALENA
PLAYA DE E
E ALONSO BARBA C U A R Z O MARCOS CALLE ABRIL
C ISLA DE LA G DR DOMINGUEZ DOC OTOÑO VERANO CALLE MARZO
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DR JAIME S A N
R CAR TUJA C A L L E J O S É D I Á Z LA ANTILLA L A L O S R O M E R O S A V E N I D A
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S E R DR MUÑOZ PERALT A DR ROYO V I L L A L B I
MARBELLA
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O M B DRS GLEZ MENESES DEL PL. DE CHIPIONA Z A R O SIMPECADO HERMANDADES CONSTANTINA
L A C U ISLA DR SERAS PLAYA DE MAZAGON BLANCA PALOMA MAR CASPIO
R I S A A C N E W T O N S MAGICA CALLLE ANTONIO BUERO VALLEJO A V E N I D A D O C TOR MARAÑON CONIL TAMBORIL LAS CARRETAS MAR NEGRO C A L L E B R E N E S
A D E CALLE DE JOSÉ DE GÁLVEZ MAIMONIDES CA LLE DR LEAL CASTAÑO CALLE ORQUIDEA
NIÑA DE LA CALLE PRIMAVERA M A R R O J O
C PL DEL DR SOR FRANCISCA DOROTEA
B E R N A R D O D E T O R O
BARRAQUER HERMANAS DE LA CRUZ
M A R I E C U R I E EL TER CALLE AVELLANA FERNANDO DE MATA RONDA DE PIO XII
EL TAF Parlamento GONZALO NUÑEZ DE SEPULVEDA MADRE SAN MARCELO
EL TALGO EL CARRETA de Andalucía DOCTOR LUPIAÑEZ G A R D
M A R I E C U R I E PURGAT ORIO DE ARAUXO ABUYACUB CALLE MADRESELVA PLAZA DE E N I A
CALLE MATEMÁTIC OS REY D O N LA FUENTE
CORREA M A
PLAZA
E CALLE LOUIS BRAILLE O S PASTOR Y CAS TRO C A L L E M A N Z A N A X I I I DE GRANADA C AL LE GER A NI O PENSAMIENTO AUTONOMIA
FRAY LUIS N U E
D BIAS PASCAL L Perdigones C A L L E P E R A F A N D E R I B E R A MONTEMAYOR BEGONIA
BASILICA
ASTORGA CALLE GIRASOL CRISANTEMO
MARCOS DE CABRERA JUAN ESPERANZA A L B A C A R A GLADIOLO
Puente de la Barqueta FANCELLI DE ROBLE JUAN DE F A D R I Q U E S JUAN DE LA RIBERA L E O N AVENIDA DEL CONDE CALLE
CARTUJA ‘93 PARQUE Torre de los TORRIGIANO MONEDEROS PEDRO F R JORGE DE L V I L L A L O B O S ALMENSILLA
SANCHEZ PERRIER
DE HALCON
ADELANTADO TAFUR PLAZA DOLORES DR JIMENEZ DIAZ ALGAMITAS
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Basílica de
D U MAX PLANCK la Macarena ANDUEZA F A TOLEDO CALLE MANUEL MATEOS C AL LE DE LL E REN A LAFFON L H E L I
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MANUEL
CALLE AMANTE
N S C H A R L E S D A R W I N Monasterio de F E R I A PL VISTA
CALLE JOSE MALUQUER
San Clemente
CALLE ESCOBEROS
MORAGA
DIONISIO ALC ALA GALIANO RODRIGUEZ CORREA
E E REPOSO PACHE CO Y NUÑEZ DEL PRADO RESOLANA SAGUNTO FLECHA CALLE FLORENCIO QUINTERO FLORIDA PALMA DEL RI O CALLE FRANCISCO

V V C H A R L E S D A R W I N A DE LA SEDA YUSTE C A L L E P E R A L CALLE FAUSTINO ALVAREZ PLAZA ORDEN DE HONDEROS T PEREZ AZNALFARACHE JUAN
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A O E CASTRO L A CALLE TORRES SAN GIL MALTA CALLE TORREBLANCA PATRICIO SAENZ Murallas VISTA HERMOSA NUÑEZ G AZCARATE CARRETERO
MANUEL
PLAZA N POZO CALLE MUÑOZ LEON PANTION
EXPO I N CALLE CREDITO TEIDE CALLE PARRAS
MAESTRE
CLAVIJO
M PIZ A RRO E ANICETO SAENZ SAENZ MEDALLA MILAGROSA L A C R U Z R O J A CALLE DE LA ALBAIDA
R
ANGULO
A P A S E O R E Y J U A N C A R L O S I P A S E O R E Y J U A N
JARDIN
ANTONIA MACARENA
O C O CLARA LUMBRERAS E D E PLAZA DE FRAY DIEGO DE CADIZ CAPUCHINOS FDEZ DE GUADALUPE
Convento de
C r T Santa Clara C A L PUMAREJO LAMARQUE DE NOVOA
JARDIN i QUIJANO L E D E R E L AT O R DUQUE DE A V E N I D A D E
E
I GUADALQUIVIR Torre de Don PJE G PJ CALLE SORDA
BOTANICO
R AMERICANO v Fadrique AMARGURA E AMORES C MONTEMAR CETINA LA MARIA LA ROSALEDA
E i C E N T SANTA C A L L SUBTERRANIO CALLE MORERA CALLE LOS POLANCOS
M u L PERIS MENCHETA MACASTA MADRE D A V E N I D A ALMADEN DE LA PLATA
A l q E BONAPLATA I HOMBRE DE PIEDRA CALLE MATA M OLINO C A L L E A R R AYA N PADRE MANJON MARQUEZ MAESTRO CALLE
NARCISO
SAN BLAS PAS T ORA
Monasterio Santa a D V CALLE ROELAS MEDINA PLAZA DEL SANTA M ARINA SAN JU LIAN CALLE SAN QUIROGA
CRONISTA
PAZA
María de las Cuevas d CUR DE TEO D O S I O ALAMEDA DE HERCULES GU A DIANA PALACIO DIVINA BORDADOR R OJEDA S O L L O GIRALDILLO CARRETERA DE CARMONA
CAM I N O D E LO S D E S C U B R I M I E N T O S ENLARGEMENT PLAZA BLASCO DE G O L E S I CASTILLO LASTRUCCI L L E D GAYANGOS MARTIINEZ MONTAÑEZ CONDE DE BARAJAS G R A N
JOAQUIN
CORINTO
CALLE
Centro Andaluz de a E CANO TIDURIAS A N CALLE SANTA ANA P O D E R GONZALEZ CUADRADO LUCERO VIRGEN DEL A L L E S A N L U I S DUQ U E C ORNEJO LA HIN IESTA RONDA DE CAPUCHINOS S A N
COSTA
ACEITUNO
Arte Contemporaneo G u L L E J U A N E R MARQUES DE CALLE E SLAVA H CORTES BARCO CONDE DE TORREJON VERDE MALAVER PEDRO MIGUEL LA MACARENA STA LUCIA GARCI FERNANDEZ SANTA JABUGO CALLE NIÑA
FRANCISCO DE ARIÑO
C I D
DR LETAMENDI
PASAJE MALLOL JUZGADO
S LA MINA ALCOY
PLAZA DEL
PRADA
H E RMENEGILDO
PELICANO
STA RUFINA
INOCENTES
CALL E LIRA
VULCANO JUAN P MONTALBAN
PINTA
C A L L E M I G U E L A B A D A N
PL ANTONIO A R R O Y O
A
C A L L E P I N Z O N E S
MARIA
SEE PAGES
CALLE
MARCO SANCHO
ZARUEN
Iglesia Sta
CALLE MARIA AUXILIADORA
5–6 FOR
5–6 FOR
PLAZA
C
CARDENAL SPI NO LA
CANTABRIA
Isabel
MALDONADOS
Convento de ENLARGEMENT
PASCUAL DE
C DE LA EN L ADRILLADA OF THIS AREA
OF THIS AREA
RUBENS
C A L L E D E
C A L L E C A S T E L L A R
PL SAN
LERENA
SAN F DE PAULA
ISABEL
CALLE TRAJANO
Pabellón de los C A CALLE MARTIN MARCOS PL SANTA STA PAULA SANTA JUSTA
V E N E C I A
Descubriementos GARAY C A L L E D E B A Ñ D E L QUEVEDO ESPIRITU SANTO T A V E R A CALLE SOCORRO JARDINES DE MARTELO B O S C O
S O L
PL SAN VIRIATO
Palacio de las
& Omnimax CALLE BAJELES CALLE DARSENA C A L L E ALFAQUE RIOS R A M O S ANTOLINEZ O S PL DE LA GAVIDIA PADRE J E S U S S MI G UEL AMOR DE DIOS DON PEDRO NIÑO S J DE LA PALMA DUEÑAS D E L B U T R O N VERONICA EL VALLE D
S DE CASTRO
Dueñas
SALESIANOS
REGINA
DOCTOR
TARIN
SAN
LAS
JERONIMO
LEPANTO
C A L L E
ATIENZA

CORTES
SANTO
G A R C I A
Santa Inés

CALLE GALLOS
PLAZA

Pabellón de la CALLE MARQUES DE LIÑAN PTA REAL A SALADO R E D E S MENDOZA QUE CALLE DE ABAD GORDILLO JESUS DE LA VERA CRUZ TENIENTE BORGES APONTE C A LLE ZURBARAN PL POZO HERNANDEZ Convento de C ORONEL B U S T O S PEÑU E L AS CALLE MAT
PL DEL DUQUE
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Centre CALLE DE GRAVINA CA L L E D E BAILEN Lebrija IMAGEN PL SAN MESA MERLO
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E U C A L I P T O F R E S N O A L M E Z MEDINA Y GALNARES CEMENTERIO DE
SAN FERNANDO



Puente de MEMBRILLO CALLE DE CIDRO D E
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A D E CALLE DE JOSÉ DE GÁLVEZ MAIMONIDES CA LLE DR LEAL CASTAÑO CALLE ORQUIDEA
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C PL DEL DR SOR FRANCISCA DOROTEA
B E R N A R D O D E T O R O
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M A R I E C U R I E EL TER CALLE AVELLANA FERNANDO DE MATA RONDA DE PIO XII
EL TAF Parlamento GONZALO NUÑEZ DE SEPULVEDA MADRE SAN MARCELO
EL TALGO EL CARRETA de Andalucía DOCTOR LUPIAÑEZ G A R D
M A R I E C U R I E PURGAT ORIO DE ARAUXO ABUYACUB CALLE MADRESELVA PLAZA DE E N I A
CALLE MATEMÁTIC OS REY D O N LA FUENTE
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MARCOS DE CABRERA JUAN ESPERANZA A L B A C A R A GLADIOLO
Puente de la Barqueta FANCELLI DE ROBLE JUAN DE F A D R I Q U E S JUAN DE LA RIBERA L E O N AVENIDA DEL CONDE CALLE
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CALLE GALLOS
PLAZA

Pabellón de la CALLE MARQUES DE LIÑAN PTA REAL A SALADO R E D E S MENDOZA UE CALLE DE ABAD GORDILLO JESUS DE LA VERA CRUZ TENIENTE BORGES APONTE C A LLE ZURBARAN PL POZO HERNANDEZ Convento de C ORONEL B U S T O S PEÑU E L AS CALLE MATAHACAS OSARIO CALLE D
PL DEL DUQUE
Navegación STA VICENTA MARIA DE LA VICTORIA JOSE GESTOSO PLAZA DE LA ALCAZARES SO R ANGELA DE LA CRUZ TERCEROS PL PONCE PINTO P E R E Z H E R VA S FLORENCIA U R Q U I Z A
ARTEMISA
PL DE LOS
DE LEON
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CORDOBA
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Centre CALLE DE GRAVINA CA L L E D E BAILEN Lebrija IMAGEN PL SAN MESA MERLO
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CALLE
CALLE LÓPEZ PINTADO
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Torre Sevilla PLAZA DE HERRERA CALLE MONS ALVES SAN ELOY GOYENETA JOSE LUIS LUQUE PL DOÑA ALHONDIGA SANTIAGO A Z A F R A N RECAREDO GONZALO BILBAO
EL VIEJO
C A L L E
ARAPILES
ARMAS
Plaza de Armas PARADAS
CARMEN
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CALLE SAN PABL O MURILLO O'DONNELL
CARDENAL
PEREZ
LOPE DE VEGA
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CALLE JUAN ANTONIO CAVESTANY
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PLAZA LA
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456-457_EW_Spain.indd 456 02/10/2017 15:19

CALLE SAN PABL O MURILLO O'DONNELL
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AVENIDA DEL PERU
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MANUEL RODRIGUEZ ALONSO
C A L L E V I R T U D

PLAZA DE
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CALLE ARQUEROS
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C A L L E A R C O S
F E R N A N D E Z D E R I B E R A
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PL REPUBLICA

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C I D TEODOSIO C O N D E D E B A R A J A S DR LETAMENDI TORREJON MALDONADOS AMAPOLA INFANTES HINIESTA Iglesia Sta
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DE LEON
DE LOS
CEPEDA PLAZA DEL STA VICENTA MARIA VICTORIA CA L L E ARGUIJO ENCARNACION ALCAZARES SOR ANGELA DE LA CRUZ Iglesia Iglesia Santa TERCEROS PLAZA PADRE ESCUELAS PIAS OSARIO C A L L E VARA DEL REY
San
A L F O N S O X I I
Pedro
JERONIMO
C
Museo de MUSEO MARTIN VILLA L A R A Ñ A Catalina CORDOBA J A U R E G U I PUÑONROSTRO G BILBAO
Bellas Artes A ULLOA G MOSCARDO V CAMPOS I M A G E N JUAN DE D DE MERLO
MESA
C A L L E S A N E L O Y
PLAZA
PLAZA DE A G U I A R CALLE DE GRAVINA A L L E D E C A L L E SAN PEDRO C A L L E ARAPILES LEONCILLOS
ARMAS Plaza de Armas VIEJO PEDRO Casa COMPAÑIA JOSE LUIS LUQUE ESCARPIN V DE G Y ESPERANZA A R R O Y O
de la
Shopping Centre PEDRO DEL T O R O HERRERA EL C A L L E M O N S A L V E S CARAVACA AZOFAIFO Condesa CALLE GOYENETA PL BUEN M DE VELILLA CALLE DE ALHONDIGA FRANCISCO MEJIAS AVE MARIA A TENORIO R E C A R E D O
SUCESO
A Z A F R A N
C A L L E M A R Q U E S D E P A R A D A S
F D DE DEZA
SAUCEDA
CARMEN
Lebrija PUENTE Y PELLON CEDACEROS PL DOÑA CENICERO N E G R O
S R O Q U E M U R I L L O O ' D O N N E L L R I V E R O ORTIZ DE ZUÑIGA CARDENAL CERVANTES C A L L E J U
F CA BA LLE R O
PL CRISTO
ACETRES
Estacion PLAZA LA S PEDRO MARTIR B A I L E N JOSE DE VELILLA C U N A CALLE LAGAR MENSAQUE BUIZA Y DON ALONSO GALDOS MORERIA DE BURGOS PLAZA JESÚS DE V DE G Y ESPERANZA P I T E R D E
SALES Y FE R R E
AVDA CRISTO DE LA EXPIRACION LEGION GONZALEZ ABREU Iglesia de la C A L L E R I O J A C A L L E V E L A C A L L E S I E R P E S SAN T A CRUZ ZAMUDIO C A L L ENSENADA LA REDENCIÓN S A N T I A G O C O N D E D E PL CARMEN C A L L E
EL SABIO
Plaza de Armas
CERRAJERIA
LLOP
L A N Z A
C A N A L E J A S
DESCALZOS
RAFAEL
CABEZA DEL REY DON PEDRO
Magdalena
GOLFO
CALLE
C A L L E S A N PA B L O
Leandro
LINEROS
C A L L E CRISTO DEL CALVARIO CÓRDOBA SIETE REVUELTAS PEREZ SAN JUAN Convento San E C A L L E D E L O S N A V A R R O S BENITEZ CALLE AMADOR DE LOS RIOS
ALCAICERIA
LUIS DE VARGAS BOBBY DEGLANE CIRIACO ESTEBAN ATENEO PASAJE HERBOLARIOS ALFALFA ODREROS B OT ER OS Iglesia R M A R I N CALERIA V DE LA LUZ G U A D A L U P E CALLE JUAN DE VERA
PL DEL
PLAZA
San
M O R A T I N
H U E L V A
M DEL DUERO MARQUES DE PARADAS MATEO ALE MAN OTUMBA C A L L E M E N D E Z N U CALLE ROSARIO JOVELLANOS SAGASTA SALVADOR Iglesia San A M CAMACHO ALFA LFA Ildefonso A G U I L A S Casa de Iglesia C A L L E
Pilatos
CALLE
CALLE UBEDA
C A B A L L E R I Z A S
Salvador
C A L L E
VILLEGAS
I M P E R I A L
San Esteban
S BARCARIZETGUI MOLINA D E TTE V ZUÑ ALBAREDA GRAL POLAVIEJA LOS RIOS GALINDO ROSARIO LUCHANA AUGUSTO PLASENCIA AMISTAD PILATOS S A N E S T E B A N F R AY A LO N S O
C A L L E C A R LO S C A Ñ AL
D
TO RRE MOLINOS
TIRSO DE
C A L L E
J U L I O C E S A R
CONCEPCION
PLAZA
BLANCO DE
B E N I D O R M E
M U Ñ O Z O L I V E Z Q U E Z T E T U A N
CALLE ALBUERA EL ARENAL Ñ E Z NUEVA TTE C Ayuntamiento C A L L E CALLE SAN M R MARCOS ISIDORO REY MUÑO Z PAV CELINDA V I R G E N E S L I R I O V I D R I O T I N T E S AGUSTIN PUERTA DE
GRANADA
CALLE DE TRASTAMARA
SEGUI
PL SAN
CARMONA
CAL LE BILBAO
C OR R A L DE L
PLAZA

DIAMELA
C A L L E A L M A N S A
D E
Museo del
Y
Plaza
Baile Flamenco
S E G U R A REYES CATOLICOS S A N T A S P A T R O N A S PARIAS PEDRO CAL L E ZARAGOZA Nueva BARCELONA FRANCISCO A LVA R E Z CALLE DE F RA N C O S CALLE PAJARITOS BAMBERG M A R M O L E S ON S A N C O N D E I B A R R A
CALLE ZAR A GOZA
GANDESA
PL DE LAS
PL DE SAN
MADRID
JOAQU I N GUICHOT
MERCEDARIAS
ROSITAS
ARJONA
LUIS MONTOTO
PLAZA
PASAJE LOS ALCORES
MOLVIEDRO
BADAJOZ
ESTELLA
PLAZA
I R U N
DUENDE AV E N HERNANDO COLON Q U IN T E R O DE M O LINA D E S C A L L E A I R E FEDERICO RUBIO CALLE DE LEVIES GARCI-PEREZ PASAJE ZAMORA ZURRADORES
P A D R E M A R C H E N A
CALLE
C A L L E G A L E R A
A R E N A L CASTELAR CALLE GAMAZO J I M I O S FERNANDEZ Y GONZALES D I A ARGOTE PLACENTINES Palacio C A L L E B A GUZMAN EL BUENO G O M DE DIOS J O S E C E S P E D E S VIRGEN DE LA ALEGRIA SAN C L E M
ATANASIO
CALLE
BARRON
V E R D E
FARNESIO
GENIL
G DE
PA S T O R Y L AN D E R O
V LEAL
C A L L E D E A D R I A N O HARINAS D E ALEMANES Arzobispal GA FABIOLA DOS HERMANAS NARDO LEON
A R C H E R O S
PLAZA
CALLEJON DE Puente de Isabel II Plaza de Toros de GARCIA DE VINUESA PL VIRGEN DE A N G E L E S T EO S CARLOS E N C I S O SANTA MARÍA LA BLANCA CURTIDORES ALCALDE ISACIO CONTRERAS
LA INQUISICION
A N T O N I A D I A Z
PLAZA (Puente de Triana) la Maestranza L LOS REYES M A MESON DEL D E CANARIOS CANO Y CUETO M O R E N O
C A L L E D E M E N E N D E Z P E L AY O
ALONSO
CALLAO FEDERICO SANCHEZ BEDOLLA A Giralda Convento de la C A L L E MORO X I M EN E Z C R U C E S
C A L L E C I R C O IRIS S DIEGO CALLE ARFE PJE SEISES CABILDO Catedral Encarnación PJE ANDREU S AN TA MARISCAL J CASTILLO
PLAZA
ROLDAN
S JORGE
G E N E R A L C A S TAÑO S
SANTA REFINADORES
PLAZA DEL C A L L E VA R F LO R A CALLE PAVIA Hospital de los PJE VILLA JAMERDANA L OPE DE RUEDA TE R E S A PLAZA PLAZA PEDRO ALEJO FERNANDEZ M A R I A
A U R O R A
PLAZA
ALTOZANO PA S E O A L C A L D E M A R Q U E S D E C O N TA D E R O R O D O C O N S T I T U C I O N F C GONZALEZ TRIUNFO Venerables CRUZ D E M E T R I O
DEL
SA N JACINTO VALLADARES C A L L E D E L A C A L L E V E L A R D E D O S D E M A Y O TOMAS DE IBARRA de Indias PL DOÑA G LO R I A J DE NEVE AGUA ALFARO D E J O S E
Archivo
PLAZA
ELVIRA
R O C I O
CALLE FABIE F L O T A C A L L E Teatro de la T E M P R A D O Hospital de Indias MIGUEL M AÑARA Alcázar JUDERIA JARDINES DE CI F U ENTES R A S T R O J U A N L O S R I O S
Real
VIDA
PIMIENTA
de la
Archivo
MURILL O
Caridad
Maestranza
G E N E R A L R I O S
PLAZA
ADOLFO
TORRIJOS Capilla de los G u PASEO DE CRISTOBAL COLON RODRIGUEZ CONTRATACION D E C A P I T A N V I G U E R A S
Marineros
NUÑEZ
JUAN ROMERO
DE BALBOA
JURADO

CALLE VICTORIA CALLE V DE LECA Iglesia B E T d a l CALLE SANTANDER CALLE HAZAÑA JOAQUIN S GREGORIO MARIANA DE JARDINES DEL JUAN DE C O N D E S A N C O F I A
TRIANA P U R E Z A a D E
DUARTE
LUCA DE TENA B VIDAL PELAY
PINEDA
ALCÁZAR
CALLE EVANGELISTA P A G E S D E L C O R R O CO RREA B GUERRA Santa Ana I S q u i v i r Torre del Oro ALMTE LOBO DE JEREZ SAN AVIÑON AVENIDA DE MALAGA M A T A C A R R I A Z O N A R D O GALLINATO
PUERTA
B E R
AVENIDA DE CADIZ
MATIENZO
R O D R I G O D E
Puerta
GUINES HABANA
CISNE
de Jerez FERNANDO
SANTO REY
Puerta de Jerez
Hotel Alfonso XIII
PILAR DE GRACIA
T R I A N A
458-459_EW_Spain.indd 458 02/10/2017 15:19

C I D TEODOSIO C O N D E D E B A R A J A S DR LETAMENDI TORREJON MALDONADOS AMAPOLA INFANTES HINIESTA Iglesia Sta
I CASTILLO
LASTRUCCI
ZARUEN
CONDE DE
ALBERTO LISTA
PLAZA
PLAZA
CANTABRIA
T O R N E O G O L E S PA SC UA L DE GAYA NGO S M A R T I I N E Z M O N T A Ñ E Z C A R D E N A L S P I N O L A S A N F D R U B E N S GRAN PODER STA BARBARA DELGADO MORGADO LERENA MARTIN SAAVED
Isabel
M I G U E L
EUROPA
POTRO
Santa Paula
Marcos
C A L L E D E L S O L
PLAZA
Pasarela la Cartuja
SAN
PL SANTA
C A L L E
DE
PL SAN
D E L PLAZA BLASCO C A L L E D C A L L E CALLE PADRE CAÑETE E PA U L A DEL C A L L E T R A J A N O A M O R D E D I O S C E R VA N T E S QUEVEDO VIRIATO APOSENTADORES R I A F E E S P I R I T U C A L L E S O C O R R O S DE CASTRO
V I C E N T E
DE GARAY
DUQUE DE VERAGUA
D E
VALLE
C A L L E D E A B A D G O R D I L LO E B A Ñ O S
C A L L E CALLE BAJELES CALLE DARSENA C A L L E CALLE ALFAQUEQUE S A N ANTOLINEZ GAVIDIA PADRE TARIN JESUS C A L L E DON PEDRO PL POZO JERONIMO REGINA S J DE LA PALMA S A N T O C A L L E Palacio de T A V E R A P EÑ
NIÑO
A MPARO
PLAZA
DE LA
PLAZA
las Dueñas
D O Ñ A M A R I A C O R O N E L
DUEÑAS
LEPANTO
CALLE
HERNANDEZ
ATIENZA
B U T R O N
A S A L A D O R E D E S M E N D O Z A R I O S G A R C I A R A M O S C A L L E D E CALLE CISNEROS J E S U S D E L A V E R A C R U Z V DE LOS LIBROS SAN JUAN DE AVILA T E N I E N T E B O R G
CALLE
LAS CORTES
PLAZA
SAN M IGUEL
MISERICORDIA
DE LA
CONCORDIA
APONTE
PLAZA
Santa Ines
ZURBARAN
R DE CHECA
PLAZA
PLAZA
L I Ñ A N

DE LA
PONCE
PTA REAL
PLAZA
DE LEON
DE LOS
San
CEPEDA PLAZA DEL STA VICENTA MARIA VICTORIA CA L L E ARGUIJO ENCARNACION ALCAZARES SOR ANGELA DE LA CRUZ Iglesia Iglesia Santa TERCEROS PLAZA PADRE ESCUELAS PIAS OSARIO C A L L E VARA DEL REY
A L F O N S O X I I
Pedro
JERONIMO
C
Museo de MUSEO MARTIN VILLA L A R A Ñ A Catalina CORDOBA J A U R E G U I PUÑONROSTRO G BILBAO
Bellas Artes A ULLOA G MOSCARDO V CAMPOS I M A G E N JUAN DE D DE MERLO
MESA
C A L L E S A N E L O Y
PLAZA
PLAZA DE A G U I A R CALLE DE GRAVINA A L L E D E C A L L E SAN PEDRO C A L L E ARAPILES LEONCILLOS
ARMAS Plaza de Armas VIEJO PEDRO Casa COMPAÑIA JOSE LUIS LUQUE ESCARPIN V DE G Y ESPERANZA A R R O Y O
de la
Shopping Centre PEDRO DEL T O R O HERRERA EL C A L L E M O N S A L V E S CARAVACA AZOFAIFO Condesa CALLE GOYENETA PL BUEN M DE VELILLA CALLE DE ALHONDIGA FRANCISCO MEJIAS AVE MARIA A Z A F R A N A TENORIO R E C A R E D O
SUCESO
C A L L E M A R Q U E S D E P A R A D A S
F D DE DEZA
SAUCEDA
CARMEN
Lebrija PUENTE Y PELLON CEDACEROS PL DOÑA CENICERO N E G R O
S R O Q U E M U R I L L O O ' D O N N E L L R I V E R O ORTIZ DE ZUÑIGA CARDENAL CERVANTES C A L L E J U
F CA BA LLE R O
PL CRISTO
ACETRES
Estacion PLAZA LA S PEDRO MARTIR B A I L E N JOSE DE VELILLA C U N A CALLE LAGAR MENSAQUE BUIZA Y DON ALONSO GALDOS MORERIA DE BURGOS PLAZA JESÚS DE V DE G Y ESPERANZA P I T E R D E
SALES Y FE R R E
AVDA CRISTO DE LA EXPIRACION LEGION GONZALEZ ABREU Iglesia de la C A L L E R I O J A C A L L E V E L A C A L L E S I E R P E S SAN T A CRUZ ZAMUDIO C A L L ENSENADA LA REDENCIÓN S A N T I A G O C O N D E D E PL CARMEN C A L L E
EL SABIO
Plaza de Armas
CERRAJERIA
LLOP
L A N Z A
C A N A L E J A S
RAFAEL
DESCALZOS
CABEZA DEL REY DON PEDRO
Magdalena
GOLFO
C A L L E S A N PA B L O
CALLE
Leandro
C A L L E CRISTO DEL CALVARIO CÓRDOBA SIETE REVUELTAS PEREZ SAN JUAN Convento San E C A L L E D E L O S N A V A R R O S BENITEZ CALLE AMADOR DE LOS RIOS
LINEROS
LUIS DE VARGAS BOBBY DEGLANE CIRIACO ESTEBAN ATENEO PASAJE HERBOLARIOS ALFALFA ODREROS B OT ER OS Iglesia R M A R I N CALERIA V DE LA LUZ G U A D A L U P E CALLE JUAN DE VERA
ALCAICERIA
PL DEL
PLAZA
San
M O R A T I N
H U E L V A
Pilatos
M DEL DUERO MARQUES DE PARADAS MATEO ALE MAN OTUMBA C A L L E M E N D E Z N U CALLE ROSARIO JOVELLANOS SAGASTA SALVADOR Iglesia San A M CAMACHO ALFA LFA Ildefonso A G U I L A S Casa de Iglesia C A L L E
CALLE
CALLE UBEDA
C A B A L L E R I Z A S
Salvador
C A L L E
VILLEGAS
I M P E R I A L
San Esteban
S BARCARIZETGUI MOLINA D E TTE V ZUÑ ALBAREDA GRAL POLAVIEJA BLANCO DE GALINDO ROSARIO LUCHANA AUGUSTO PLASENCIA AMISTAD PILATOS S A N E S T E B A N F R AY A LO N S O
D
C A L L E C A R LO S C A Ñ AL
TIRSO DE
TO RRE MOLINOS
J U L I O C E S A R
C A L L E
CONCEPCION
PLAZA
B E N I D O R M E
LOS RIOS
M U Ñ O Z O L I V E Z Q U E Z T E T U A N
CALLE ALBUERA EL ARENAL Ñ E Z NUEVA TTE C Ayuntamiento C A L L E CALLE SAN M R MARCOS ISIDORO REY MUÑO Z PAV CELINDA V I R G E N E S L I R I O V I D R I O T I N T E S AGUSTIN PUERTA DE
GRANADA
CALLE DE TRASTAMARA
SEGUI
PL SAN
CARMONA
CAL LE BILBAO
C OR R A L DE L
PLAZA

DIAMELA
C A L L E A L M A N S A
D E
Museo del
Y
Plaza
Baile Flamenco
S E G U R A REYES CATOLICOS S A N T A S P A T R O N A S PARIAS PEDRO BADAJOZ Nueva BARCELONA FRANCISCO A LVA R E Z CALLE DE F RA N C O S CALLE PAJARITOS BAMBERG M A R M O L E S ON S A N C O N D E I B A R R A PL DE LAS C A L L E AR MENTA
CALLE ZAR A GOZA
GANDESA
PL DE SAN
MADRID
JOAQU I N GUICHOT
MERCEDARIAS
ROSITAS
ARJONA
LUIS MONTOTO
PLAZA
PASAJE LOS ALCORES
MOLVIEDRO
ESTELLA
PLAZA
CAL L E ZARAGOZA
I R U N
DUENDE AV E N HERNANDO COLON Q U IN T E R O DE M O LINA D E S C A L L E A I R E FEDERICO RUBIO CALLE DE LEVIES GARCI-PEREZ PASAJE ZAMORA ZURRADORES
P A D R E M A R C H E N A
CALLE
C A L L E G A L E R A
ATANASIO
A R E N A L CASTELAR CALLE GAMAZO J I M I O S FERNANDEZ Y GONZALES D I A ARGOTE PLACENTINES Palacio C A L L E B A GUZMAN EL BUENO G O M DE DIOS J O S E C E S P E D E S VIRGEN DE LA ALEGRIA SAN C L E M ENTE G A LV A N
CALLE
BARRON
V E R D E
FARNESIO
GENIL
PA S T O R Y L AN D E R O
G DE
V LEAL
C A L L E D E A D R I A N O HARINAS D E ALEMANES Arzobispal GA FABIOLA DOS HERMANAS NARDO LEON
A R C H E R O S
PLAZA
CALLEJON DE Puente de Isabel II Plaza de Toros de GARCIA DE VINUESA PL VIRGEN DE A N G E L E S T EO S CARLOS E N C I S O SANTA MARÍA LA BLANCA CURTIDORES ALCALDE ISACIO CONTRERAS
LA INQUISICION
A N T O N I A D I A Z
C A L L E D E M E N E N D E Z P E L AY O
PLAZA (Puente de Triana) la Maestranza L LOS REYES M A MESON DEL D E CANARIOS CANO Y CUETO M O R E N O
ALONSO
CALLAO FEDERICO SANCHEZ BEDOLLA A Giralda Convento de la C A L L E MORO X I M EN E Z C R U C E S
C A L L E C I R C O IRIS S DIEGO CALLE ARFE PJE SEISES CABILDO Catedral Encarnación PJE ANDREU S AN TA MARISCAL J CASTILLO
PLAZA
ROLDAN
S JORGE
G E N E R A L C A S TAÑO S
SANTA REFINADORES
PLAZA DEL C A L L E VA R F LO R A CALLE PAVIA Hospital de los PJE VILLA JAMERDANA L OPE DE RUEDA TE R E S A PLAZA PLAZA PEDRO ALEJO FERNANDEZ M A R I A
A U R O R A
PLAZA
ALTOZANO PA S E O A L C A L D E M A R Q U E S D E C O N TA D E R O R O D O C O N S T I T U C I O N F C GONZALEZ TRIUNFO Venerables CRUZ D E M E T R I O
DEL
SA N JACINTO VALLADARES C A L L E D E L A C A L L E V E L A R D E D O S D E M A Y O TOMAS DE IBARRA de Indias PL DOÑA G LO R I A J DE NEVE AGUA ALFARO D E J O S E
Archivo
PLAZA
ELVIRA
R O C I O
CALLE FABIE F L O T A C A L L E Teatro de la T E M P R A D O Hospital de Indias MIGUEL M AÑARA Alcázar JUDERIA JARDINES DE CI F U ENTES R A S T R O J U A N L O S R I O S
Real
VIDA
PIMIENTA
de la
Archivo
MURILL O
Caridad
Maestranza
G E N E R A L R I O S
PLAZA
ADOLFO
TORRIJOS Capilla de los G u PASEO DE CRISTOBAL COLON RODRIGUEZ CONTRATACION D E C A P I T A N V I G U E R A S
Marineros
NUÑEZ
JUAN ROMERO
DE BALBOA
JURADO

CALLE VICTORIA CALLE V DE LECA Iglesia B E T d a l CALLE SANTANDER CALLE HAZAÑA JOAQUIN S GREGORIO MARIANA DE JARDINES DEL JUAN DE C O N D E S A N C O F I A
TRIANA P U R E Z A a D E
DUARTE
LUCA DE TENA B VIDAL PELAY
PINEDA
CALLE EVANGELISTA P A G E S D E L C O R R O CO RREA B GUERRA Santa Ana I S q u i v i r Torre del Oro ALMTE LOBO DE JEREZ SAN AVIÑON AVENIDA DE MALAGA M A T A C A R R I A Z O N A R D O GALLINATO
ALCÁZAR
PUERTA
B E R
AVENIDA DE CADIZ
MATIENZO
R O D R I G O D E
Puerta
GUINES HABANA
CISNE
de Jerez FERNANDO
SANTO REY
Puerta de Jerez
Hotel Alfonso XIII
PILAR DE GRACIA
T R I A N A
458-459_EW_Spain.indd 459 02/10/2017 15:19

460  SE VILLE

SHOPPING IN SEVILLE

The shopping experience in Seville is Tetuán and Calle Sierpes, and flows on
influenced by its culture – bustling with towards Plaza Nueva and over to Plaza
energy until the moment the siesta arrives, Alfalfa, where you will find a fantastic
then relaxing over lunch before the frenzy range of goods – anything from the latest
begins again. Seville has a good mix of fash ions to unique Spanish arts and crafts.
well-known chain stores and independently Yet more diverse items can be found while
owned gift shops, and the stores in this strolling along Amor de Dios towards
vibrant city are as colourful and diverse Alameda de Hercules, where there are many
as the people themselves. The main wonderful Moroccan, bohemian and artsy
shopping district winds through Calle shops to explore.

Specialist Shops
The streets of Calle Cuna,
Calle Francos and Calle
Lineros are lined with shops
that capture the flamenco
spirit. Lina Boutique has
impeccably styled, unique
dresses as well as accessories.
Roberto Garrudo sells
flamenco dance shoes, while
beautiful handmade shawls
and intricate lace mantillas
(veils) can be found at
Juan Foronda. Handmade
sombreros (hats), in addition An array of fans at Díaz, Calle Sierpes, Seville
to tasteful men’s accessories, Department Stores
are available at Maquedano. lined with shops, restaurants, bars
For a fabulous range of leather and Galerias and a cinema. A shopping mall
goods and fashions, El Caballo El Corte Inglés, Spain’s national is due to open at Torre Sevilla
is the place to shop. department store, has two main by the end of 2017. Shopping
To relive the spirit of Semana locations in the centre – Plaza centres are open 10am–10pm
Santa (Easter Week), religious Duque de la Victoria and Plaza Monday to Saturday.
items can be bought at Antigua Magdalena. The larger building
Casa Rodríguez. at Plaza Duque offers clothes, Open-Air Markets
At Poster Félix you can shoes, sporting goods, cosmet­
find historical posters from ics, a gourmet shop and a The lively and colourful open­ air
festivals and bullfights of years supermarket; the smaller markets feature a dazzling
gone by, and other vintage building stocks music, books display of unique wares and are
Spanish collectibles. and art supplies. The outlet a great way to spend a leisurely
in Plaza Magdalena sells morning. Distinctive accessories
fine china, kitchenware and clothing can be found in
and appliances. It also the markets of Plaza Duque de
houses a super market la Victoria and Plaza Magdalena,
and a DIY section. open all day (weather
El Corte Inglés is permitting) Thursday to Saturday.
open Monday to The markets at Plaza
Saturday until 10pm. Encarnación, El Arenal, Plaza del
Plaza de Armas Altozano, in Triana, and Calle
is the only shopping Fería (open mornings, Monday
centre in the heart of to Saturday) offer local produce,
town, with shops, fish, meat and cheese, while the
bars, restau rants, a Thursday market at Calle Fería
night club, cinema specializes in bric­a­brac. On
and a supermarket. Sunday mornings, stamps, coins
Nervion Plaza, the and other collectibles are traded
largest shopping hub in Plaza del Cabildo, and the
close to the city centre painters’ market in Plaza del
Stylish handmade sombreros (accessible by metro), is Museo has displays of local art.




460-461_EW_Spain.indd 460 26/09/17 11:55 am

SHOPPING IN SE VILLE  461

Antiques and Crafts Fashion
Antique shops are scattered The shops of Calle Tetuán and
throughout the city centre, Calle Sierpes bustle with an
mainly in Barrio Santa Cruz exciting range of the latest
and Alfalfa. Antigüedades fashions. Aurora Gaviño has
el Museo has classic Spanish exclusive women’s clothes and
and European furnishings and accessories in a range of styles –
art, while handmade goods from flamenco to bridal wear.
can be found at El Postigo, Loewe offers classic lines of
an arts and crafts centre. clothing, lug gage and
Sevillarte boasts unique accessories for both men and
ceramics and functional women, while Zara stocks all the
artwork with Andalucían latest high-street trends. Adolfo
influences. Seville’s great Domínguez offers high fashion
ceramic tradition is visible in for men, women and children.
the Triana district, which still For unique and exotic acces-
has several operating ceramic sories, head to the Alfalfa district,
workshops. Ceramic shops can where several shops offer
also be found along Calle distinctive jewellery, handbags An art poster with a typical Sevillian flavour
Sierpes and Calle Tetuán. and other goods. Esmeralda
has the biggest selection. languages, go to Casa del
For stylish baby clothes with Libro. Music aficionados
Food and Wine Sevillian flair, head to Larrana. can find regional sounds of
To bring home some of Seville’s The well-heeled of Seville flamenco, Rock Andaluz and
gastronomic speciali ties or to shop at the vast array of shoe Semana Santa music, as well
prepare a nice picnic, visit Latas stores in the area as well as at as international artists at FNAC,
y Botellas. The gourmet shop the well-stocked “shoe street” with its impressive collection
El Corte Inglés has exquisite of Calle Córdoba. of CDs, DVDs and books. Also,
luxuries for the discerning a large selection of musical
palate, as well as an ample wine Books, Music and instruments and equipment can
cellar. For general groceries try be found at Sevilla Musical.
the supermarket downstairs. Souvenirs Typical souvenir shops are
Every area has several small Small bookshops are tucked abundant along Avenida de
convenience stores. For out- into numerous corners of the la Constitución, Calle Mateos
of-hours shopping, SuperCor city, but for the biggest selec- de Gago and all throughout
is open 8am–2am daily. tion of books in multiple Barrio Santa Cruz.
DIRECTORY
Specialist Shops Roberto Garrudo Sevillarte Larrana
Calle Blanca de los Rios 4.
Antigua Casa Calle Córdoba 9. Map 3 C1, Calle Sierpes 66. Map 3 C1, Map 3 C1, 6 D3.
5 C3. Tel 954 21 28 36
Rodríguez 6 D3. Tel 954 21 84 19. Tel 954 21 52 80.
Calle Alcaiceria de la Food and Wine Loewe
Loza 10. Map 3 C1, 6 D3. Department Plaza Nueva 12. Map 3 B1,
Tel 954 21 24 27. Stores and Latas y Botellas 5 C3. Tel 954 22 52 53.
El Caballo Galerias Calle Regina 14. Map 2 D5, Zara
Calle Antonia Diaz 7. El Corte Inglés 6 D1. Tel 954 29 31 22. Calle Rioja 10. Map 3 B1,
Map 3 B2, 5 B4. Plaza Duque de la Victoria SuperCor 5 C2. Tel 954 21 10 58.
Tel 955 12 55 02. Avda Carlos V, 16.
8, 13B. Map 1 C5, 5 C2.
Juan Foronda Tel 954 59 70 00. Map 4 D3. Books, Music
Calle Sierpes 79. Map 3 C1, One of several branches. Fashion and Souvenirs
5 C3. Tel 954 21 40 50. Casa del Libro
Lina Boutique Antiques Adolfo Domínguez C/ Velázquez 8. Map 3 C1,
Calle Lineros 17. Map 3 C1, and Crafts C/ Puente y Pellón 11. Map 5 C3. Tel 902 02 64 10.
6 D3. Tel 954 21 24 23. 3 C1, 6 D2. Tel 954 21 95 57. FNAC
Maquedano Antigüedades Aurora Gaviño Avenida de la
el Museo
Calle Sierpes 40. Map 3 C1, Calle Álvarez Quintero 16. Constitución 8. Map 3 C1,
5 C3. Tel 954 56 47 71. Plaza del Museo 4. Map 1 Map 6 D3. Tel 954 22 54 94. 5 C4. Tel 902 10 06 32.
C5, 5 B2. Tel 954 56 01 28.
Poster Félix Esmeralda Sevilla Musical
Avenida de la El Postigo Calle Alcaiceria de la Loza Calle Cardinal Spinola 3.
Constitución 26. Map 3 C2. Calle Arfe s/n. Map 3 B2, 26. Map 3 C1, 6 D3. Map 1 C5, 5 C1
Tel 954 218 026. 5 C4. Tel 954 56 00 13. Tel 954 22 55 11. Tel 954 91 57 55.



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462  SE VILLE

ENTERTAINMENT IN SEVILLE

Seville is universally famed as being a city of while the world’s most important flamenco
celebration and vitality, and this is reflected festival, the Bienal de Flamenco, takes place
in its two spring festivals, Semana Santa and in the city. Seville also has an enviable
Feria de Abril (see p437). In fact, the city has a selection of night spots, from the quiet,
year-round programme of interesting cultural more relaxed area surrounding the cathedral
events. The modern Teatro de la Maestranza to the buzzing bars of Calle Betis and the
and Teatro Lope de Vega, along with a Alfalfa district. For sports fans, a local derby
number of independent venues, host a range between Real Betis and Sevilla FC is an
of dance, music, theatre and arts festivals, absolute must-see.


travel and much more. La The Museo del Baile
Teatral, a bimonthly publication, Flamenco is a good place
focuses on theatre and dance. to learn about the origins
of the dance and current
developments, as well as
Flamenco see performances.
Flamenco embraces a broad
range of dancing, singing and
musical styles. One venue with Music and Dance
high-quality perform ances is The setting of Bizet’s Carmen,
Los Gallos. For something really Rossini’s The Barber of Seville
authentic, go to La Anselma and Mozart’s Don Giovanni
in the Triana quarter – the and Figaro, Seville is a city
traditional home of the gypsy of opera lovers. International
community. La Carbonería opera companies perform
is an informal bar where free at the elegant Teatro de
Decorative tile commemorating Seville’s flamenco shows are often la Maestranza starting in
Real Betis football club performed by amateur artists. December and lasting until
Promoting semi-professional May. This theatre is home to
Seasons and Tickets local artists, Casa de la the Real Orquesta Sinfónica
In Seville, the arts season Memoria in the Santa Cruz de Sevilla, whose performances
usually starts in September, district presents varied shows are highly regarded. The annual
lasting until June–July. From daily. As the venue is quite programme of the theatre
April to the end of the summer, small, it is recom mended you also includes chamber and
the streets and open-air stages buy tickets in advance, and classical music seasons.
also host shows. show up early to get a seat. In Teatro Lope de Vega and
Two of the city’s biggest Calle Betis, there are bars where Conservatorio Superior de
events – the Bienal de the public can watch and join Música Manuel Castillo are
Flamenco and the Bienal in with sevillanas, a popular two other remarkable venues
de Arte Contemporáneo – Andalucían folk dance. for classical music.
are biannual and take place
in the autumn in even-
numbered years.
Tickets for major sports
events, opera, concerts and
festivals should be booked
in advance – details can be
pro vided by the city’s tourist
information offices. Foot-
ball matches are very
popular, so buy these in
advance too.

Entertainment Guides
A monthly events guide,
El Giraldillo (www.giraldillo.es)
covers film, music, theatre,
clubs, art, sport, books, gay life, A live performance of flamenco at Los Gallos




462-463_EW_Spain.indd 462 26/09/17 11:55 am

ENTER T AINMENT IN SE VILLE  463


and Sala Malandar Frequented by Spanish
Luxuria, have live celebrities, Antique in Isla de
music from local la Cartuja is the place to dance
bands, including till dawn. In summer, their
jazz, folk and rock, outdoor terrace boasts two
but the highlight of pools and fashion shows.
the jazz calendar in
Seville has to be Bullfighting
the International
Jazz Festival, held The Maestranza Bullring (see
in November at p436) is mythical among fans of
Rosario Flores, the famous Andalucían singing star, the Teatro Central. bull fighting. Some of the most
performing at one of her concerts important bullfights in Spain are
held here during the Feria de
Nightlife
The Maestranza and Teatro Abril. The season runs from April
Central are the main venues The nightlife of Seville offers to October. It is advisable to
hosting a wide range of an endless array of possibili ties. book in advance if the matadors
national and international Calle Betis, along the Triana are famous, and also if you want
classical and contemporary side of the river, has many a seat in the sombra (shade).
dance performances. bars, restaurants and clubs. Tickets are sold at the taquilla
Alameda de Hércules is one (box office) at the bullring.
of the liveliest areas, with
Rock, Jazz and Blues Bar 1987 and Café Central as
Few international rock stars main bohemian hotspots. Las Amusement Parks
make it to Seville, as Barcelona Columnas is a traditional tapas Isla Mágica (see p452) re-creates
and Madrid tend to attract all bar in Barrio de Santa Cruz the exploits of 16th-century
the big names. However, large district and Bar Garlochi is New World explorers, with
concerts are sometimes held recom mended for the first drink eight zones ranging from
at Estadio Olímpico or at of the night. La Terraza at Eme Mundo Maya to Amazonia,
FIBES Palacio de Exposiciones Catedral Hotel is the place to and from El Dorado to La
y Congresos de Sevilla. Some see and be seen at (booking Metrópolis de España. It is
of Spain’s most popular groups essential). The streets around great fun for children of all
and singers in the pop genre, Plaza de la Alfalfa overflow with ages. Visitors to the Acuario
such as Manuel Carrasco, youthful revellers, while young de Sevilla can see more than
Merche and David Bisbal, are professionals gather in Calle 400 marine species in their
from Andalucía. Café Naima Arfe, in the El Arenal district. different habitats.
DIRECTORY
Flamenco Music and Dance Estadio Olímpico Bar Garlochi
Isla de la Cartuja, s/n. Calle Boteros 26.
La Anselma Conservatorio Map 1 B1. Map 3 C1, 6 E3.
Calle Pages del Corro 49. Superior de Música
Map 3 A2, 5 A5. Manuel Castillo FIBES Café Central
Calle Baños 48. Map 1 C5, Avenida Alcalde Luis Plaza Alameda de
La Carbonería 5 B1. Tel 677 90 37 62. Uruñuela 1. Hércules 64. Map 2 D4.
Calle Céspedes 21a. Tel 954 47 87 00. Tel 645 77 01 32.
Map 4 D1, 6 E3. Teatro Central ∑ fibes.es
Tel 954 21 44 60. Av José Gálvez s/n, Isla Las Columnas
de la Cartuja. Map 1 C2. Sala Malandar Calle Rodrigo Caro 1.
Casa de la Memoria Tel 955 54 21 55. Map 3 C2, 6 E4.
Calle Cuna 6. Map 3 C1, Luxuria
6 D2. Tel 954 56 06 70. Teatro de la Avenida Torneo 43. La Terraza
∑ casadelamemoria.es Maestranza Map 1 B4. Eme Catedral Hotel,
Paseo de Colón 22. Map 3 Tel 954 37 01 88. Calle Alemanes 27.
Los Gallos B2, 5 C5. Tel 954 22 33 44.
Plaza Santa Cruz 11. Nightlife Map 3 C2, 6 D4.
Map 4 D2, 6 E4. Teatro Lope de Vega Tel 954 56 00 00.
Tel 954 21 69 81. Avda María Luisa s/n. Map Antique
∑ tablaolosgallos.com 3 C3. Tel 955 47 28 28. Matemáticos Rey Pastor y Amusement Parks
Castro s/n. Map 1 B3.
Museo del Baile Rock, Jazz and Tel 954 46 22 07. Acuario de Sevilla
Flamenco Blues Muelle de las Delicias,
Calle Manuel Rojas Marcos Bar 1987 Area Sur, Puerto de
3. Map 3 C1, 6 D3. Tel 954 Café Naima Alameda de Hércules 93. Sevilla. Map 5 C5.
34 03 11. ∑ museodel Calle Trajano 47. Map 1 Map 2 D4. Tel 955 44 15 41.
baileflamenco.com C5, 5 C1. Tel 954 38 24 85. Tel 672 66 44 55. ∑ acuariosevilla.es



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SOUTHERN SP AIN  465

ANDALUCÍA


Huelva • Cádiz • Málaga • Gibraltar • Sevilla
Córdoba • Granada • Almería • Jaén
Andalucía is where all Spain’s stereotypes meet.
Bullfights, beaches, flamenco, white villages, flashy fiestas,
religious processions, tapas and sherry are all here in
abundance. But each is part of a larger whole, which
further lists great art and architecture, nature reserves,
excellent cuisine and a charming, easy-going way of life.

The eight provinces of Andalucía, plus the and the splendid palace of the Alhambra
British territory of Gibraltar, stretch across in Granada. Inevitably, perhaps, the most
Southern Spain from the deserts of Almería visited places are the great cities and the
to the Portuguese border. One of Spain’s busy Costa del Sol, with Gibraltar, a
longest rivers, the Guadalquivir, bisects the geographical and historical oddity, at its
region and the mainland’s highest peaks can western end. But there are many attractions
be found in the Sierra Nevada. Andalucía is tucked into other corners of the region.
linked to the central tableland by a pass, Many of the sights of Huelva province,
the Desfiladero de Despeñaperros. bordering Portugal, are associated with
Successive invaders left their mark on Christopher Columbus, who set sail from
Andalucía. The Romans built cities in this here in 1492. Film directors have put to
southern province, which they called good use the atmospheric landscapes of
Baetica, among them Córdoba, its capital, Almería’s arid interior, which are reminiscent
the well-preserved Itálica near Seville, of the Wild West or Arabia. Discreetly
and Cástulo, once the largest city on the concealed among the countless olive
peninsula. It was in Andalucía that the groves that cover Jaén province, but not
Moors lingered longest and left their to be missed, are Andalucía’s two lovely
greatest buildings – Córdoba’s Mezquita Renaissance towns, Úbeda and Baeza.

























The city of Jaén surrounded by olive groves, seen from the Castillo de Santa Catalina
Pedestrians strolling on the seaside promenade in Marbella, Costa del Sol



464-465_EW_Spain.indd 465 26/09/17 11:55 am

466  SOUTHERN SP AIN

Exploring Andalucía

Andalucía is Spain’s most varied region and promises rewarding
Spanish experiences, from exploring dramatic desert scenery at
Tabernas and windsurfing on the Costa del Sol, to skiing in the Sierra
Nevada and sherry tasting in Jerez. Of the many nature reserves, the
vast, watery Doñana teems with birdlife, while Cazorla is a rugged
limestone massif. Granada and Córdoba are un missable for their Zújar Belalcázar
Moorish heritage; Úbeda and Baeza are Renaissance gems; and Hinojosa del Duque Albacete
Ronda is one of dozens of superb white towns. Guadalmez Ciudad Real Madrid
Villanueva del Duque Guadalén Guadalimar Beas de
Villanueva Cardeña Embalse del Segura
PARQUE NATURAL
Jándula
Mérida Fuente Espiel de Córdoba Baños de la Vilches Villanueva
S I E R R A M O R E N A Obajuna S i e r r a M o r e n a Encina Linares Guadalquivir
del Arzobispo
Beja Montoro ÚBEDA DE CAZORLA
Sierra Morena
Jabugo Cazalla de la Sierra Puebla de
Cortegana MEDINA ANDÚJAR CÁSTULO Don Fadrique
Aracena Constantina AZAHARA CÓRDOBA Porcuna BAEZA Cazorla
El Pedroso Almodóvar del Río Jódar
SIERRA DE ARACENA
Castro Martos JAÉN Huéscar
Paymogo El Ronquillo Peñaflor del Río Mágina VÉLEZ
Calañas Guadiana Pozo Alcón
Nerva Lora del Río ANDALUCÍA 2167m BLANCO
PALMA Baena Huelma Vélez Rubio
Alosno Guadalquivir DEL RÍO Alcaudete
Sanlúcar de Odiel Alcala del Río CARMONA ÉCIJA MONTILLA Embalse de Cúllar Murcia
Negratín
Guadiana La Palma ITÁLICA Aguilar Baza Oria
Gibraleón del Contido Lucena PRIEGO Sierra Albox Huércal-Overa
DE CÓRDOBA
Faro Moguer Sevilla Alcala de Guadaira Estepa Puente Rute Iznalloz de Baza Almanzora
HUELVA Pilas Marchena Genil MONTEFRÍO GUADIX Serón Purchena
Ayamonte MONASTERIO PALOS DE LA Dos Hermanas Genil Iznájar Sierra de los Filabres Garrucha
DE LA RÁBIDA FRONTERA Loja
PARQUE
EL ROCÍO Utrera OSUNA GRANADA LA CALAHORRA Sorbas
Key Torre de NACIONAL DE Laguna de la Archidona
la Higuera Moron de Fuente de Piedra Alhama de Pico Veleta SIERRA NEVADA TABERNAS MOJÁCAR
Motorway DOÑANA la Frontera ANTEQUERA Granada 3398m LAUJAR DE
Golfo de GARGANTA ANDARAX Níjar Carboneras
Major road Cádiz Lebrija Algodonales DEL CHORRO EL TORCAL LANJARÓN LAS ALPUJARRAS
Secondary road SANLÚCAR DE Carratraca Álora Colmenar Sierra de Almijara Orgiva ALMERÍA CABO DE
BARRAMEDA Vélez-Málaga Berja GATA
Scenic route Grazalema Motril
Chipiona RONDA Cabo de San José
Main railway ARCOS Adra Gata
JEREZ DE LA FRONTERA DE LA Ubrique PUEBLOS MÁLAGA NERJA ALMUÑÉCAR
Minor railway BLANCOS Torrecilla
El Puerto de Santa María FRONTERA 1919m Torremolinos
International border Gaucín
CÁDIZ Fuengirola
Regional border
San Fernando Medina Jimena de MARBELLA
Summit Sidonia la Frontera Estepona
Conil de la C o s t a d e l S o l
Frontera Vejer de la
Frontera
Barbate
ALGECIRAS GIBRALTAR
C O S TA D E L A L U Z
Tarifa
0 kilometres 25
0 miles 25
Getting Around
Andalucía has a modern motorway network,
with the principal NIV A4 (E5) from Madrid
following the Guadalquivir Valley to Córdoba,
Seville and Cádiz. The fast AVE train links Málaga,
Seville and Córdoba with Madrid. Coaches
cover most of the region. The main airports
The smart marina at Sotogrande are Málaga, Seville, Jerez and Gibraltar.
For keys to symbols see back flap
466-467_EW_Spain.indd 466 26/09/17 11:55 am

AND AL UCÍA  467









Zújar Belalcázar

Albacete View of the Alhambra palace
Hinojosa del Duque Guadalmez Ciudad Real Madrid from the Albaicín, Granada
Villanueva del Duque Guadalén Guadalimar Beas de
Villanueva Cardeña Embalse del Segura
PARQUE NATURAL
Jándula
Mérida Fuente Espiel de Córdoba Baños de la Vilches Villanueva
S I E R R A M O R E N A Obajuna S i e r r a M o r e n a Encina Linares Guadalquivir
del Arzobispo
Beja Montoro ÚBEDA DE CAZORLA
Sierra Morena
Jabugo Cazalla de la Sierra Puebla de
Cortegana MEDINA ANDÚJAR CÁSTULO Don Fadrique
Aracena Constantina AZAHARA CÓRDOBA Porcuna BAEZA Cazorla
El Pedroso Almodóvar del Río Jódar
SIERRA DE ARACENA
Castro Martos JAÉN Huéscar
Paymogo El Ronquillo Peñaflor del Río Mágina VÉLEZ
Calañas Guadiana Pozo Alcón
Nerva Lora del Río ANDALUCÍA 2167m BLANCO
PALMA Baena Huelma Vélez Rubio
Alosno Guadalquivir DEL RÍO Alcaudete
Sanlúcar de Odiel Alcala del Río CARMONA ÉCIJA MONTILLA Embalse de Cúllar Murcia
Negratín
Guadiana La Palma ITÁLICA Aguilar Baza Oria
Gibraleón del Contido Lucena PRIEGO Sierra Albox Huércal-Overa
DE CÓRDOBA
Faro Moguer Sevilla Alcala de Guadaira Estepa Puente Rute Iznalloz de Baza Almanzora
HUELVA Pilas Marchena Genil MONTEFRÍO GUADIX Serón Purchena
Ayamonte MONASTERIO PALOS DE LA Dos Hermanas Genil Iznájar Sierra de los Filabres Garrucha
DE LA RÁBIDA FRONTERA Loja
PARQUE
EL ROCÍO Utrera OSUNA GRANADA LA CALAHORRA Sorbas
Laguna de la
Torre de NACIONAL DE Moron de Fuente de Piedra Archidona SIERRA NEVADA MOJÁCAR
la Higuera la Frontera Alhama de Pico Veleta LAUJAR DE TABERNAS
Golfo de DOÑANA GARGANTA ANTEQUERA Granada 3398m ANDARAX Níjar Carboneras
Cádiz Lebrija Algodonales DEL CHORRO EL TORCAL LANJARÓN LAS ALPUJARRAS
SANLÚCAR DE Carratraca Álora Colmenar Sierra de Almijara Orgiva ALMERÍA CABO DE
BARRAMEDA Grazalema Vélez-Málaga Berja GATA
Chipiona RONDA Motril Cabo de San José
BLANCOS
ARCOS Adra Gata
JEREZ DE LA FRONTERA DE LA Ubrique PUEBLOS MÁLAGA NERJA ALMUÑÉCAR
El Puerto de Santa María FRONTERA Torrecilla Torremolinos
1919m
CÁDIZ Gaucín Fuengirola
San Fernando Medina Jimena de MARBELLA
Sidonia la Frontera Estepona
Sights at a Glance
Conil de la C o s t a d e l S o l
Frontera Vejer de la
Frontera 1 Sierra de Aracena s Carmona W Parque Natural de
Barbate 2 Huelva d Itálica Cabo de Gata
ALGECIRAS GIBRALTAR 3 Monasterio de la Rábida f Sierra Morena Seville see pp430–63
4 Palos de la Frontera g Palma del Río
C O S TA D E L A L U Z
Tarifa 5 El Rocío h Écija Tours
6 Parque Nacional de j Medina Azahara w Pueblos Blancos
Doñana pp470–71 k Córdoba pp484–7 y Marbella
7 Sanlúcar de Barrameda l Montilla u Málaga
8 Jerez de la Frontera c Nerja z Priego de Córdoba
9 Cádiz b Lanjarón x Montefrío
0 Costa de la Luz n Las Alpujarras v Almuñécar
q Arcos de la Frontera m Laujar de Andarax
e Ronda pp476–7 , Sierra Nevada ! Guadix
r Algeciras . Granada pp492–8 @ Jaén
t Gibraltar / La Calahorra £ Andújar
i Garganta del Chorro $ Cástulo % Baeza pp502–3
o El Torcal * Vélez Blanco ^ Úbeda
p Antequera ) Tabernas & Parque Natural de Cazorla
a Osuna Q Almería ( Mojácar
466-467_EW_Spain.indd 467 26/09/17 11:55 am

468  SOUTHERN SP AIN


Cristina, an impor tant fishing
port with excellent seafood
restaurants; and Mazagón with
miles of windswept dunes.
The hilly region east of
Huelva known as El Condado
produces many of Andalucía’s
finest wines, and Bollullos del
Condado has the largest wine
cooperative in the region.
Niebla, nearby, has a Roman
bridge. The town walls and
12th-century Castillo de los
Guzmanes are both Moorish.
The famed jamón ibérico hanging in a bar in Jabugo, Sierra de Aracena
E Museo Provincial
1 Sierra de Aracena great Lisbon earthquake of Alameda Sundheim 13. Tel 959 65
1755. It is an industrial city 04 24. Open Tue–Sun. 7
Huelva. £ El Repilado. @ Aracena.
n Calle Pozo de la Nieve s/n, today, sprawling around the + Castillo de los Guzmanes
Aracena, 663 93 78 77. ( Sat. quayside on the Río Odiel. Calle Campo Castillo, Niebla.
Columbus’s departure for the Tel 959 36 22 70. Open daily.
This wild mountain range is one New World (see p60) from Palos
of the most remote and least de la Frontera, across the Río
visited corners of Andalucía. Odiel estuary, is celebrated in 3 Monasterio de
On the hillside are the ruins of the excellent Museo Provincial,
a Moorish fort. The hill is which also charts the la Rábida
pitted with caverns and history of the Rio Tinto Huelva. @ from Huelva. Tel 959 35
in one, the Gruta de mines. To the east of the 04 11. Open Tue–Sun. 7 8 &
las Maravillas, is a lake centre, the Barrio Reina
in a chamber hung Victoria is a bizarre Four kilometres (2 miles) to
with many stalactites. example of English the north of Palos de la Frontera
The village of Jabugo mock-Tudor suburban is the Franciscan Monasterio
is famed for its ham, bungalows built by the de la Rábida, founded in the
jamón ibérico, or pata Rio Tinto Company for 15th century.
negra (see p422). its workers in the early In 1491, a dejected Columbus
Off the A471 are the 20th century. South of sought refuge here after his
giant opencast mines at the town, at Punta del plans to sail west to find the
Minas de Riotinto, where Bronze jug, Museo Sebo, the Monumento East Indies had been rejected by
iron, copper and silver Provincial, Huelva a Colón, a rather bleak the Catholic Monarchs. Its prior,
have been exploited statue of Columbus Juan Pérez, fatefully used his
since Phoenician times. The created by Gertrude Vanderbilt considerable influence as
Museo Minero traces the history Whitney in 1929, dominates Queen Isabella’s confessor
of the Rio Tinto Company. the Odiel estuary. to reverse the royal decision.
Inside, frescoes painted by
} Gruta de las Maravillas Environs Daniel Vásquez Díaz in 1930
Pozo de la Nieve. Tel 663 93 78 76 There are three resorts with glorify the explorer’s life and
(for info about availability). Open sandy beaches near Huelva: discoveries. Also worth seeing
10am–1:30pm, 3–6pm. & 8 Punta Umbria, on a promontory are the Mudéjar cloisters, the
E Museo Minero next to the bird-rich wetlands flower-filled gardens and
Plaza del Museo. Tel 959 59 00 25. of the Marismas del Odiel; Isla the beamed chapterhouse.
Open daily. Closed 1 & 6 Jan, 25 Dec.
& 7 8 ∑ parqueminero
deriotinto.es

2 Huelva
Huelva. * 130,000. £ @ n Calle
Jesús Nazareno 21, 959 65 02 00.
( Fri. _ Las Columbinas (3 Aug).
Founded as Onuba by the
Phoenicians, Huelva had its
grandest days as a Roman port.
It was almost wiped out in the Frescoes depicting the life of Columbus at the Monasterio de la Rábida
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp572–4 and pp598–602


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4 Palos de la E Casa Museo de Martín
Frontera Alonso Pinzón
Calle Colón 24. Tel 959 10 00 41.
Huelva. * 12,000. @ n Parque Open Mon–Fri. &
Botánico José Celestino Mutis Paraje R Monasterio de Santa Clara
de la Rábida, 959 49 46 64. ( Sat. _ Plaza de las Monjas. Tel 959 37 01 07.
Santa María de la Rábida (3 & 16 Aug).
Open Tue–Sun am. Closed public
Columbus set sail for the New hols. & 8
World on 3 August 1492 from
Palos, the home town of his two
cap tains, the brothers Martín and 5 El Rocío
Vicente Pinzón. Martín’s former Huelva. * 2,500. @ n Avenida
home, the Casa Museo de Martín de la Canaliega, 959 44 38 08.
Alonso Pinzón, is now a small _ Romería (May/Jun).
museum of exploration, and his
statue stands in the main square. Bordering the Parque Nacional de
The 15th-century Iglesia de Doñana (see pp470–71), El Rocío Crowds following the image of the
San Jorge has a fine portal, is famous for its annual romería, Virgin at El Rocío
through which Columbus left which sees almost a million
after hearing Mass before board- people converge on the village. Andalucía’s Fiestas
ing the Santa María. The pier is Many of the pilgrims travel from Carnival (Feb/Mar), Cádiz.
now silted up. distant parts of Spain, some on The whole city puts on fancy
gaudily deco rated oxcarts, to dress for one of Europe’s
Environs visit the Iglesia de Nuestra largest and most colourful
In the beautiful white town of Señora del Rocío. A statue of the carnivals. Groups of singers
Moguer are treasures such as Virgin in the church is believed practise for many months to
the 16th-century hermitage to have performed miraculous perform ditties satirizing
of Nuestra Señora de Monte- healings since 1280. Early on the current fashions, celebrities
mayor, and the Neo-Classical Monday morning of the festival, and politicians.
town hall. The Monasterio de men from Almonte fight to Romería de la Virgen de
Santa Clara houses the Museo carry the statue in procession, la Cabeza (last Sun in Apr),
Diocesano de Arte Sacro and and the crowd clambers onto Andújar (Jaén). A mass
pil grimage to a lonely sanc-
has a pretty cloister. the float to touch the image.
tuary in the Sierra Morena.
Día de la Cruz (first week in
May), Granada and Córdoba.
Neighbourhood groups
compete to create the
most colourful crosses
adorned with flowers on
squares and street corners.
Córdoba Patio Fiesta
(mid-May). Flower-decked
patios in old Córdoba are
opened to the public with
displays of flamenco.
El Rocío (May/Jun). More
than 70 brotherhoods of
pilgrims arrive at the village
of El Rocío to pay homage
to the Virgen del Rocío.
Columbus Festival
(late Jul/early Aug), Huelva.
This celebration of
Columbus’s voyage is
dedicated to the native
music and dance of a
different Latin American
country every year.
Exaltación al Río
Guadalquivir (mid-Aug),
Sanlúcar de Barrameda
(Cádiz). Horses are raced
on the beach at the mouth
of the Río Guadalquivir.
Iglesia de Nuestra Señora del Rocío, El Rocío



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6 Parque Nacional de Doñana

Doñana National Park is ranked among Europe’s greatest
wetlands. Together with its adjoining protected areas,
the park covers in excess of 500 sq km (193 sq miles)
of marshes and sand dunes. The area used to be a
hunting ground (coto) belonging to the Dukes of
Medina Sidonia. As the land was never suitable for
human settlers, wildlife was able to flourish. In 1969,
this large area became officially protected. In addition
to a wealth of endemic species, thousands of migratory Shrub Vegetation
birds stop over in winter when the marshes become Backing the sand dunes is a thick
flooded again, after months of drought. carpet of lavender, rock rose and
other low shrubs.
Palacio del
Acebrón
El Rocío
La Rocina



H612


Prickly Juniper
This species of juniper (Juniperus El Acebuche
oxycedrus) thrives in the wide
dune belt, putting roots deep
into the sand. The trees may
get buried beneath the dunes. Matalascañas Palacio de Doñana

Laguna de Santa Olaya

Coastal Dunes
Softly rounded,
white dunes, up to
30 m (100 ft) high,
fringe the park’s Monte de
coastal edge. The Doñana, the
dunes, ribbed by wooded area
prevailing winds behind the sand
off the Atlantic, dunes, provides
shift constantly. shelter for lynx,
deer and boar.




The Interior Key
The number of visitors Marshes
to the park’s interior Dunes
is strictly controlled
to ensure minimal Parque Nacional de Doñana
environmental impact. Parque Natural de Doñana
The only way to view Road
the wildlife here is
on officially guided
day tours.
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp572–4 and pp598–602


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VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
Practical Information
Deer Huelva & Sevilla.
Fallow deer (Dama dama) ∑ reddeparquesnacionales.
and larger red deer (Cervus mma.es
elaphus) roam the park. Marginal areas: Open daily.
Stags engage in fierce Closed 1 & 6 Jan, Pente cost, 25
contests in late summer as Dec. n La Rocina: Tel 959 43
they prepare for breeding. 95 69. n Palacio del Acebrón:
exhibition “Man and Doñana”.
n El Acebuche: reception,
Wild cattle use exhibition, café & shop. Tel 959
the marshes as 50 61 22. Self-guided paths:
waterholes. La Rocina & Charco de la Boca
(3.5 km); El Acebrón from Palacio
del Acebrón (1.5 km); Laguna
del Acebuche from Acebuche
(1.5 km). Inner park areas: Open
May–mid-Sep: Mon–Sat; mid-
Río Guadiamar Sep–Apr: Tue–Sun. Guided tour
only. Jeeps leave El Acebuche at
8:30am & 3pm (5pm in summer).
Book ings: Tel 959 43 04 32. &

Imperial Eagle
The imperial eagle (Aquila adalberti)
José Antonio
Valverde is one of Doñana’s rarest birds.

Marisma de
Iznalcázar



Marisma
Gallega




Greater Flamingo
During the winter months, the salty lakes and
marshes provide the beautiful, pink greater
Río Guadalquivir crustaceans, its main diet.
flamingo (Phoenicopterus ruber) with

The Lynx’s Last Refuge
The lynx is one of Europe’s rarest mammals. In Doñana about 30
individual Spanish lynx (Lynx pardellus) have found a
refuge. They have yellow-brown fur with dark brown
spots and pointed ears with black tufts. Research
Sanlúcar de is under way into this shy, nocturnal
Barrameda animal, which tends to
stay hidden in scrub. It
Fábrica feeds mainly on rabbits
de Hielo and ducks, but might catch
an unguarded fawn.
0 kilometres 5
The elusive lynx, only
0 miles 5 glimpsed with patience
For keys to symbols see back flap


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7 Sanlúcar de
Barrameda
Cádiz. * 63,000. @ n Calle Calzada
Duquesa Isabel s/n, 956 36 61 10. (
Wed. _ Exaltación al Río Guadalquivir
and horse races (mid-Aug).
A fishing port at the mouth of
the Río Guadalquivir, Sanlúcar
is overlooked by a Moorish
castle. This was the departure
point for Columbus’s third
voyage in 1498 and also for Entrance to the Barbadillo bodega in Sanlúcar de Barrameda
Magellan’s 1519 expedition
to circumnavigate the globe. 8 Jerez de la Plaza de San Juan, the 18th-
Sanlúcar is best known for Frontera century Palacio de Penmartín
its light, dry manzanilla sherry houses the Centro Andaluz de
made by, among other pro- Cádiz. * 190,000. k £ @ Flamenco, where exhibitions
ducers, Bodegas Barbadillo. n Plaza del Arenal s/n, Edificio Los give a good introduction to
Boats from the quay take visi- Arcos, 956 33 88 74. ( Mon. this music and dance tradition
tors across the river to the _ Grape Harvest (Sep). (see pp428–9). The partially
Parque Nacional de Doñana restored, 11th-century Alcázar
(see pp470–71). Jerez is the capital of sherry encompasses a well-preserved
production (see pp424–5) and mosque, now a church. Just to
Environs many bodegas can be visited. the north is the cathedral.
Chipiona, along the coast, is a Among the well-known are Pedro
lively little resort town with an Domecq and González Byass. Environs
excellent beach. The walled The city is also famous for Not far from Jerez, the
town of Lebrija, inland, enjoys its Real Escuela Andaluza de Monasterio de la Cartuja
views over vineyards. Its Iglesia Arte Ecuestre, an equestrian Santa María de la Defensión
de Santa María de la Oliva is a school with public displays on is consid ered one of the most
reconsecrated 12th-century Tuesdays and Thursdays. On beautiful in Spain. The port of
Almohad mosque. other days you may be able to El Puerto de Santa María has
watch the horses being trained. several bodegas that can be
 Bodegas Barbadillo The Palacio del Tiempo, nearby, visited, including Osborne. The
Calle Luis de Eguilaz 11. Tel 956 38 55 has one of the largest clock town also has a 13th-century
21. Open Tue–Sat. & 8 7 collections in Europe. On the castle and a large bullring.
P Real Escuela Andaluza
de Arte Ecuestre
Duque de Abrantes. Tel 956 31 96 35
(by appt). Open Mon–Fri. & 7
∑ realescuela.org
E Palacio del Tiempo
Calle Cervantes 3. Tel 956 18 21 00.
Open Tue–Sun. & 7
P Palacio de Penmartín
Plaza de San Juan 1. Tel 956 90 21 34.
Open Mon–Fri. Closed public hols.
+ Alcázar
Alameda Vieja. Tel 956 14 99 55.
Open daily. Closed 1 & 6 Jan, 25 Dec.
& 7 8
 Sherry Bodegas
Open phone for tour times. &
González Byass: Calle Manuel María
González 12, Jerez. Tel 956 35 70 16.
Pedro Domecq: Calle San Ildefonso 3,
Jerez. Tel 956 15 15 00. Sandeman:
C/ Pizarro 10, Jerez. Tel 675 64 71 77.
Osborne: C/ de los Moros, Puerto de
Santa María. Tel 956 86 91 00. Terry: C/
Real Escuela Andaluza de Arte Ecuestre, Jerez de la Frontera San Ildefonso 3, Jerez. Tel 956 15 15 00.
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp572–4 and pp598–602


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9 Cádiz VISITORS’ CHECKLIST

Jutting out of the Bay of Cádiz, and almost entirely surrounded Practical Information
by water, Cádiz lays claim to being Europe’s oldest city. Legend Cádiz. * 155,000. n Avenida
names Hercules as its founder, although history credits the José León de Carranza s/n, 956 28
56 01. ( Mon. _ Carnival (Feb/
Phoenicians with establishing the town of Gadir in 1100 BC. Mar). ∑ cadizturismo.com
Occupied by the Carthaginians, Romans and Moors in turn, Transport
the city also prospered after the Reconquest (see pp58–9) on £ Plaza de Sevilla, Tel 902 24
wealth taken from the New World. In 1587 Sir Francis Drake 05 05. @ Plaza de la Hispanidad,
sacked the city in the first of many British attacks in the war Tel 956 80 70 59.
for world trade. In 1812 Cádiz briefly became Spain’s capital
when the nation’s first constitution was declared here (see p67).


Exploring Cádiz R Oratorio de San Felipe Neri
The joy of visiting Cádiz is to Calle Santa Inés s/n. Tel 956 80 70 18.
wander along the waterfront Open 10:30am–2pm, 4:30–8pm (Jul &
with its well-tended gardens Aug: 5:30–8:30pm) Tue–Fri, 10:30am–
and open squares before 2pm Sat, 10am–1pm (Jul & Aug:
ex ploring the Old Town, which to noon) Sun.
is full of narrow alleys busy In 1812, as Napoleon tightened
with market and street life. his grip on Spain (see pp66–7),
The pride of the city is its a provisional government
Carnival (see p471) – a riotous as sem bled at this 18th-
explosion of festivities, fancy century church to try to lay
dress, singing and drinking. the founda tions of Spain’s first
constitutional monarchy. The
R Catedral liberal constitution it declared Roman marble statue from the 2nd century
Known as the Catedral Nueva was bold but ineffectual. in the Museo de Cádiz
(New Cathedral) and built on
the site of an older one, this Cádiz Cathedral The cupola was built between
Baroque and Neo-Classical 1812 and 1838 by Juan Daura,
church, with its dome of golden- the last in a long line of
yellow tiles, is one of Spain’s architects of this cathedral.
largest. In the crypt is the tomb
of composer Manuel de Falla
(1876–1946). The cathedral’s Baroque vaults
treasures are stored in the
Casa de la Contaduria, behind
the cathedral.

E Museo de Cádiz
Plaza de Mina. Tel 856 10 50 23. Open
9am–8pm Tue–Sat (to 3pm Jun–mid-
Sep); 10am–3pm Sun & pub hols. 7
The museum has archaeological
exhibits charting the history
of Cádiz and the largest art
gallery in Andalucía, with works
by Rubens, Zurbarán and
Murillo. On the third floor is a
collection of puppets made for
village fiestas.
E Torre Tavira
Calle Marqués del Real Tesoro 10. The presbytery
Tel 956 21 29 10. Open daily. altar was partly
Closed 1 Jan, 25 Dec. & 8 sponsored by
The city’s official watchtower Isabel II (see p75).
in the 18th century has now
been converted into a camera Neo-Classical Neo-Classical
obscura, and offers great views. tower façade




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there with his forces during
the Moorish conquest (see
pp56–7). Later, Tarifa and its
10th-century castle were
defended by the legendary
hero Guzmán during a siege
by the Moors in 1292.
Tarifa has since become the
windsurfing capital of Europe.
The breezes that blow on to this
coast also drive the numer ous
wind turbines on the hills.
Fishing boats at the resort of Zahara de los Atunes on the Costa de la Luz Off the N340 (E5), at the end
of a long, narrow road which
0 Costa de la Luz of its name. From the Sierra strikes out across a wilderness
del Cabrito, to the west of of cacti, sunflowers and lone
Cádiz. £ Cádiz. @ Cádiz, Tarifa.
n Paseo de la Alameda s/n, Tarifa, Algeciras, it is often possible cork trees, is Zahara de los
956 68 09 93. to see the outline of Tangier Atunes, a modest holiday resort
and the parched Moroccan with a few hotels. Conil de la
The Costa de la Luz (Coast of landscape below the purple- Frontera, to the west, is busier
Light) between Cádiz and Tarifa, tinged Rif mountains across the and more built up.
at Spain’s southernmost tip, narrow Strait of Gibraltar. The English admiral Nelson
is an unspoiled, windswept Tarifa is named after an 8th- defeated a Spanish and French
stretch of coast characterized by century Moorish commander, fleet off Cabo de Trafalgar in
strong, pure light – the source Tarif ben Maluk, who landed 1805, but died in the battle.
w A Tour Around the Pueblos Blancos
Instead of settling on Andalucía’s plains, where they 2 Ubrique
would have fallen prey to bandits, some Andalucíans Nestling at the foot of the
chose to live in fortified hilltop towns and villages. Sierra de Ubrique, this pueblo
These are known as pueblos blancos (white towns) is known for its flourishing
because they are whitewashed in the Sevilla leather industry.
Moorish tradition (see p30). They are
working agricultural towns today, El Bosque
but touring them will reveal a host Cádiz,
of references to the past. Jerez
Embalse de los
1 Arcos de Hurones
la Frontera
9 Jimena de la Frontera Charco de
Set amid hills, where wild bulls los Hurones
graze among cork and olive trees, 0 kilometres 10
this town has a ruined Moorish castle. 0 miles 5

Key
Tour route
Other roads Río Hozgarganta


Tips for Drivers
Tour length: 205 km (127 miles). La Sauceda
Stopping-off points: There are
places to stay and eat at all of 8 Gaucín
these pueblos, but Ronda has From here there are unsurpassed vistas
the widest range of hotels and over the Mediterranean, the Atlantic, the
restaurants (see p601). Arcos has Rock of Gibraltar and across the strait to
a parador (see p572). the Rif mountains of North Africa.


For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp572–4 and pp598–602


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q Arcos de la altarpiece. The huge, Gothic
Frontera Iglesia de San Pedro, perched on
the edge of a cliff formed by the
Cádiz. * 30,000. @ n C/ Cuesta de Río Guadalete, is a striking build-
Belén 5, 956 70 22 64. ( Fri. _ Toro ing. Nearby is the Palacio del
del Domingo de Resurreccíon (last day Mayorazgo, which has an
of Easter), Velada de Nuestra Señora de or nate Renaissance façade. The
las Nieves (4–6 Aug), Semana Santa,
Feria de San Miguel (end of Sep). town hall (ayuntamiento) has a
fine Mudéjar ceiling.
Although legend has it that a
son of Noah founded Arcos, it is Environs
more probable that it was the In the 15th-century the Guzmán
Iberians. It gained the name family was granted the duke-
Arcobriga in the Roman era and, dom of Medina Sidonia, a white
under the Caliphate of Córdoba west of Arcos de la Frontera. The
(see p56), became the Moorish area became one of the most
stronghold of Medina Arkosh. It important ducal seats in Spain.
is an archetypal white town, The Gothic Iglesia de Santa Iglesia de Santa María de la Asunción in
with a labyrinthine old quarter. María la Coronada is the town’s Arcos de la Frontera
On the Plaza de España, at the finest building. It contains a (Casa de Cultura). Open 10am–2pm
top of the town, are the parador notable collection of Mon–Fri. 7
(see p572) and the Iglesia de Renaissance religious art.
Santa María de la Asunción, a P Ayuntamiento
Late Gothic-Mudéjar building P Palacio del Mayorazgo Plaza del Cabildo. Tel 956 70 49 50.
noted for its choir stalls and Calle San Pedro 2. Tel 956 70 30 13. Open Mon–Fri. Closed public hols.

Embalse de
Zahara





• Benamahoma
3 Zahara de la Sierr
El Bosque
Fanning out below a
castle ruin, this fine pueblo
blanco has been declared
a national monument.
Benaocaz
La Cueva
de la Pileta 4 Grazalema
P AR QUE NA TURAL This village in the Sierra de
DE L A SIERRA DE
SIERRA DE GRAZALEMA Grazalema has the highest
UBRIQUE
rainfall in Spain.
Cortes de 5 Ronda la Vieja
la Frontera Significant remains
of the Roman town
of Acinipo, including a
theatre, can be visited.
Río Hozgarganta Algatocín
P AR QUE NA TURAL DE
L OS AL C ORNOCALES 6 Setenil
Río Guadiaro Some of the streets
of this unusual white
town, which climbs up
the sides of a gorge,
are covered by rock
overhangs. The gorge
was carved out of
Ronda 7 volcanic tufa rock
(see pp476–7) by the Río Trejo.




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e Street-by-Street: Ronda

One of the most spectacularly located cities in Spain,
Ronda sits on a massive rocky outcrop, straddling a
precipitous limestone cleft. Because of its impregnable
position this town was one of the last Moorish
bastions, finally falling to the Christians in 1485.
On the south side perches a classic Moorish pueblo
blanco (see pp474–5) of cobbled alleys, window grilles . Puente Nuevo
and dazzling whitewash – most historic sights are in An impressive feat of 18th-century
civil engineering, the “New Bridge”
this part of the town. Located in El Mercadillo, the over the 100-m- (330-ft-) deep Tajo
newer town, is one of the oldest bullrings in Spain. gorge joins old and new Ronda.
Convento de Santo
Domingo was the
local headquarters
To El Mercadillo, Plaza of the Inquisition
S A N T O D O M I N G O S A N M A R Q U É S
de Toros, parador (see p278).
and tourist information






A N
T
Casa del Rey Moro O N I O
From this 18th-century C A L L E
mansion, built on the
foundations of a Moorish A R M I Ñ Á N
palace, 365 steps lead
down to the river.
T
E N
Mirador El O R
Campillo I O
(viewpoint)








P
C L
A A
Z
M
A
P

I
L D
E L
L O
. Palacio Mondragón
Much of this palace was rebuilt 0 metres 75
following the Reconquest 0 yards 75
(see pp58–9), but its arcaded patio
is adorned with original Moorish
mosaics and plasterwork.
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp572–4 and pp598–602


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Palacio del Marqués de Salvatierra VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
Bizarre images of biblical scenes and
South American Indians embellish Practical Information
the façade of this palace, built in Málaga. * 35,000.
Renaissance style in the 18th century.
∑ turismoderonda.es
n Paseo de Blas Infante s/n, 952
18 71 19. ( Sun. _ Semana
Santa (Easter Week), Feria de la
Primavera (21 May), Feria de
Pedro Romero (Sep). Casa del Rey
Moro: Open gardens only. &
Palacio Mondragón: Open daily.
& Plaza de Toros and Museo
Taurino: Open daily. & 7
To Puente Viejo,
Baños Árabes Transport
£ Avenida de Andalucía, 902
43 23 43. @ Plaza Concepción
García Redondo, 952 87 22 60.
D O M I N G O

Santa María la Mayor
A minaret and a Muslim
prayer niche survive from
S
A
the 13th-century mosque
M A R Q U É S
N
which once stood on the
D
E
site of this church.
S
A N
A
T
L V
Minarete San
O N I O
A T
I Sebastián is a
E
remnant of a
R
14th-century Ayuntamiento
R
mosque. The town hall was remodelled in the
A R M I Ñ Á N
A
20th century and incorporates parts
of older buildings. It has a two-tier
C A R M E N Key
arcaded façade and Mudéjar ceiling.
Suggested route
E S C A L E R A
Bullfighting at Ronda
Ronda’s Plaza de Toros is the spiritual home of
bullfighting. Inaugurated in 1785, it is one of the
oldest, most important bullrings in Spain. In
A R M I Ñ Á N
September, aficionados travel from all over the
country for the singular atmosphere of the Corrida
Goyesca and millions watch it on television. It is the
dream of every aspiring matador to fight at Ronda.
The classic Ronda style (more
severe than the exuberant
School of Seville) was devel-
oped by Pedro Romero.
PL A Z A DUQUESA Born in 1754, he is
DE P ARCENT widely considered
to be the father of
modern bullfighting.
Romero, who killed
over 6,000 bulls
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r Algeciras people stream across the border used as a prison until 2010,
annually from La Línea de la and 80 km (50 miles) of siege
Cádiz. * 200,000. @ n Paseo Río
de la Miel s/n, 670 94 87 31. ( Tue. Concepción in Spain. tunnels housing storerooms
_ Feria Real (24 Jun–2 Jul). Among the chief sights of and barracks. St Michael’s Cave,
Gibraltar are those testifying to which served as a hospi tal
From the industrial city of its strategic military importance during World War II, is now
Algeciras, there are spectacular over the centuries. Halfway up the used for classical concerts.
views of Gibraltar, 14 km famous Rock are an 8th-century The Apes’ Den, near Europa
(9 miles) away across its bay. Moorish castle, whose keep was Point, Gibraltar’s southern most
The city is a major fishing port tip, is home to the tailless apes.
and Europe’s main gateway for Legend says that the British will
ferries to North Africa, especially keep the Rock only as long as
Tangier and Spain’s territories the apes remain there.
of Ceuta and Melilla. A cable car takes visitors to
the Top of the Rock, at 450 m
(1,475 ft). Gibraltar Museum
t Gibraltar charts the colony’s history.
British Crown Colony. * 35,000. P The Keep, Siege Tunnels,
@ n Duke of Kent House, Cathedral
Square, (+35) 020 07 49 50. _ Nat St Michael’s Cave, Apes’ Den
Day (10 Sep). ∑ visitgibraltar.gi Upper Rock Area. Tel (+35) 020 04 59
57. Open daily (except Siege Tunnels:
The high, rocky headland of Mon–Fri). Closed 1 Jan, 25 Dec. &
Gibraltar was signed over to E Gibraltar Museum
Britain “in perpetuity” at the 18 Bombhouse Lane.
Treaty of Utrecht in 1713 (see St Michael’s Cave, which served as a Tel (+35) 020 07 42 89. Open Mon–
p66). Today, about 4 million hospital during World War II Sat. Closed public hols. &
The Costa del Sol Puerto Banús
is Marbella’s ostentatious
marina. The expensive
Thanks to its average of 300 days of sunshine a shops, restaurants and
year and its varied coastline, the Costa del Sol, Estepona’s quiet glittering nightlife A46 A45
reflect the wealth of
between Gibraltar and Málaga, offers a full evenings make its clientele. A357
it popular with
range of beach-based holidays and water families with young El Chapparal A7
sports. Complementing the sophistication children. Behind the A7 Málaga
big hotels are old
and luxury of Marbella are many other popular squares shaded by El Palo Rincón de A7
resorts aimed at the mass market. More than orange trees. La Capellania la Victoria
30 of Europe’s finest golf courses lie just inland. A397 A355
AP7 Torremolinos
Puerto Benalmádena
AP7 Costa
San Pedro Banús Marbella
de Alcántara AP7 Fuengirola Torreblanca
A7
A7 A7
AP7 Ronda Estepona Atalaya Cabopino Cala de Punta de
Calaburra
A7 del Mar Mijas
Sabinillas
Rio Guadiaro
Punta de la Chullera
A405 Sotogrande
A7
Marina at Sotogrande
is an exclusive resort of Los Barrios San Roque
luxury villas. The marina A7
is fronted by good A381
seafood restaurants. La Línea de la Concepción
Algeciras Bahia de GIBRALTAR (UK)
Algeciras
San Pedro de
Gibraltar Alcántara is a quiet
N340 Punta de Europa resort with a modern
N340
Punta del
Carnero marina and smart
Tarifa holiday developments.
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp572–4 and pp598–602
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AND AL UCÍA  479


















Yachts and motorboats in the exclusive marina of Marbella – the summer home of the international jet set
y Marbella including Puerto Banus, Grabado Español Con­
Playa Rio Verde and Playa temporáneo displays some
Málaga. * 120,000. @ n Glorieta
de la Fontanilla, Paseo Marítimo, 952 Nagueles. In winter, the of Pablo Picasso’s least-
76 87 60. ( Mon. _ San Bernabé major attraction is the golf. known work.
(Jun). ∑ marbella.es Among the delights of the
old town, with its spotlessly E Museo del Grabado
Marbella is one of Europe’s clean alleys, squares, and smart Español Contemporáneo
most exclusive holiday resorts, shops and restaurants, is the Calle Hospital Bazan. Tel 952 76
frequented by royalty and Iglesia de Nuestra Señora de la 57 41. Open Mon–Sat. Closed
film stars. There are 24 beaches, Encarnación. The Museo del public hols. &
Marbella is the Costa del Sol’s most
stylish resort. The Playa de Don
Carlos is considered the best of
its 24 beaches.
A46 A45
A357
El Chapparal
A7
Málaga
A7 El Palo A7
Rincón de
La Capellania la Victoria
A355
A397
AP7 Torremolinos Rincón de la Victoria
is an unspoiled family
Puerto Benalmádena beach, famous for its
AP7 Costa
San Pedro Banús Marbella spit-roasted sardines.
de Alcántara AP7 Fuengirola Torreblanca
A7
A7 A7
AP7 Ronda Estepona Atalaya Cabopino Cala de Punta de Torremolinos, a high-rise holiday
Calaburra
A7 del Mar Mijas metropolis, is less brash than
Benalmádena Costa caters almost it used to be. Huge sums have
Sabinillas exclusively for package holidays. been spent on new squares,
Rio Guadiaro
Cabopino, on a not-too- Behind the rather rocky beaches a promenade, green spaces,
crowded stretch of coast, and very large marina is a plethora and improving the beach with
Punta de la Chullera has areas that include of tourist attractions. millions of tonnes of golden sand.
A405 Sotogrande nudist and gay beaches.
A7
Los Barrios San Roque
A7
Fuengirola still has an active
A381
La Línea de la Concepción fishing port – as these boxes of
Algeciras Bahia de GIBRALTAR (UK) fresh fish suggest – although
Algeciras
Gibraltar it is better known today as a
package-holiday resort with
N340 Punta de Europa a chiefly British clientele. It
N340
Punta del 0 kilometres 10
Carnero has a spectacular backdrop
Tarifa 0 miles 10 of steep, ochre mountains.
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480  SOUTHERN SP AIN


Environs The Garganta del Chorro is an
In the hills to the north and east immense chasm, 180 m (590 ft)
of Málaga is the Parque Natural deep and in places only 10 m
de los Montes de Málaga. Wild life, (30 ft) wide, cut by the river
such as eagles and wild boars, through a limestone mountain.
thrive here amid the scent of Downstream, a hydroelectric
lavender and wild herbs. Walk ers plant detracts from the wild ness
can follow a number of scenic of the place.
marked trails. Going north on The Caminito del Rey is a
the C345 you can also visit catwalk clinging to the rock face
Ecomuseo Lagar de Torrijos, a which leads to a bridge across
preserved winery of the 1840s. the gorge (visit www.caminito
delrey.info to book access).
E Museo Picasso
The main façade of Málaga’s cathedral, Calle San Agustín 8. Tel 952 12 76 Environs
consecrated in 1588 00. Open Tue–Sun. Closed 1 Jan, Álora, a classic white town (see
25 Dec. & pp474–5) with a ruined Moorish
u Málaga E Centre Pompidou Málaga castle and an 18th-century
Málaga. * 650,000. k £ @ g Pasaje Doctor Carillo Casaux s/n, Muelle church, lies 12 km (7 miles)
n Plaza de la Marina 11, 951 92 60 Uno. Tel 951 92 62 00. Open Wed–Mon. down the valley.
20. ( Sun. _ Carnival (Feb/Mar), Along the twisting MA441
Feria (second Sat–third Sun of Aug). i Garganta del from Álora is the village of
∑ malagaturismo.com Carratraca. In the 19th and early
Chorro 20th centuries, Europe’s highest
Málaga, the second-largest city Málaga. £ El Chorro. @ Parque society travelled here for the
in Andalucía, is today a thriving Ardeles. n Plaza Fuente de Arriba 15, healing powers of the sulphurous
port, just as it was in Phoenician El Chorro, 952 49 61 00. springs. These days, Carratraca
times, and again under the has a faded glory – water still
Romans and then the Moors. It Up the fertile Guadalhorce gushes out at 700 litres (155 UK
also flour ished during the 19th Valley, beyond the village of and 185 US gal) a minute and
century, when sweet Málaga El Chorro, is one of the geo- the outdoor baths remain open,
wine (see p424) was one of graph ical wonders of Andalucía. but they are little used.
Europe’s most popular drinks –
until phylloxera ravaged the
area’s vineyards in 1876.
The cathedral, begun in 1528
by Diego de Siloé, is a bizarre
mix of styles. The half-built
second tower, aban doned in
1765 when funds ran out, gave
the cathedral its nickname: La
Manquita (“the one-armed one”).
Málaga’s Museo Picasso
displays works by the native
artist, while the Casa Natal de
Picasso, where the painter spent
his early years, is now the
Picasso Foundation. The Centre
Pompidou Málaga has an
impressive collection of modern
and contemporary artworks.
Málaga’s vast Alcazaba (see
p57) was built between the
8th and 11th centuries. There
is a partially excavated Roman
amphitheatre by its entrance.
Housed in the Palacio de la
Aduana, the Museo de Málaga
displays archaeological artifacts,
including some from the site.
On the hill directly behind
the Alcazaba are the ruins of
the Castillo de Gibralfaro, a
14th-century Moorish castle. The Garganta del Chorro, rising high above the Guadalhorce River
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp572–4 and pp598–602


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AND AL UCÍA  481


Ochavada built in French style,
but which also incorporates
traditional Andalucían features.
P Plaza de Toros
Carretera de Sevilla. Tel 952 70 81 42.
Open Tue–Sun. Museo Taurino:
Open Sat, Sun, public hols.
E Palacio de Nájera
Coso Viejo. Tel 952 70 83 00.
Open Tue–Sun. &



Weathered limestone formations in El Torcal
o El Torcal There are excellent views of
Antequera from the Torre del
Málaga. £ Antequera. @ Ante quera.
n Antequera, 952 70 25 05. Parque Papabellotas on the best-
Natural del Torcal: Tel 952 24 33 24. preserved part of the wall.
Open 10am–5pm daily (to 7pm Apr– In the town below, the 18th-
Sep). ∑ torcaldeantequera.com century Palacio de Nájera is
the setting for the Municipal
A massive exposed hump of Museum, the star exhibit of
limestone upland, which has which is a splendid Roman
been slowly weathered into bronze statue of a boy.
bizarre rock formations and The massive dolmens, just
caves, the Parque Natural del outside the town, are thought
Torcal is popular with hikers. to be the burial chambers of
Marked trails lead from a tribal leaders and date from
visitors’ centre. around 2500–2000 BC. Palacio del Marqués de la Gomera, in
The park is also a pleasure Osuna, completed in 1770
for natural historians, with fox Environs
and weasel populations, and Laguna de la Fuente de Piedra, a Osuna
colonies of eagles, hawks and north of Antequera, teems with Sevilla. * 17,500. £ @ n Calle
vultures, as well as rare plants bird life, including huge flocks of Sevilla 37, 954 81 57 32. ( Mon.
and flowers like wild orchids. flamingoes, which arrive to breed _ San Alcadio (12 Jan), Virgen de
after wintering in West Africa. la Consolación (8 Sep).
A road off the N334 leads to a
p Antequera lakeside viewing point. There Osuna was once a key Roman
is a visitors’ centre in Fuente de garrison town. It rose again to
Málaga. * 42,000. £ @ n Plaza
San Sebastián 7, 952 70 25 05. ( Tue. Piedra village. To the east, also off prominence in the 16th century
_ Ferias (end May & mid-Aug). the N334, is Archidona, with its under the Dukes of Osuna, who
∑ antequera.es 18th-century, octagonal Plaza wielded immense power. In
the 1530s they founded the
This busy market town was Colegiata de Santa María, a
strategically important first as grand church with a Baroque
Roman Anticaria and later as reredos and paintings by José
a Moorish border fortress de Ribera. This was followed in
defending Granada. 1548 by the University, a rather
Of its many churches, the severe building with a beautiful
Iglesia de Nuestra Señora del patio. Some fine mansions,
Carmen, with its vast Baroque among them the Palacio del
altarpiece, is not to be missed. At Marqués de la Gomera, also
the opposite end of the town is reflect the town’s former glory.
the 19th-century Plaza de Toros,
with a museum of bullfighting. Environs
The hilltop castle was built in To the east lies Estepa, whose
the 13th century on the site of modern-day fame rests on
a Roman fort. Visitors can walk its biscuits – polvorones and
round the castle walls by mantecados. The Iglesia del
approaching through the 16th- The triumphal, 16th-century Arco de los Carmen has a black and white,
century Arco de los Gigantes. Gigantes, Antequera Baroque façade.




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482  SOUTHERN SP AIN


centuries. Some well-preserved
Roman baths and a theatre
can be seen in the village of
Santiponce, just outside the site.

f Sierra Morena
Sevilla & Córdoba. £ Cazalla,
Constantina. @ Constantina, Cazalla.
n Constantina (Sevilla): 955 88 12 97;
Cazalla (Sevilla): 954 88 35 62; Córdoba:
957 64 11 40; El Robledo: 955 88 95 93.
The Sierra Morena, clad in oak
and pine woods, runs across the
north of the prov inces of Sevilla
Tomb of Servilia in the Roman necropolis in Carmona and Córdoba. It forms a natural
frontier be tween Andalucía and
s Carmona P Ayuntamiento the plains of neighbouring
Calle Salvador 2. Tel 95 414 00 11.
Sevilla. * 25,000. @ n Alcázar Open Mon–Fri. Closed public hols. Extremadura and La Mancha.
de la Puerta de Sevilla, 954 19 09 55. T Necrópolis Romana Smaller sierras (ranges of hills)
( Mon & Thu. _ Feria (May), Avenida Jorge Bonsor 9. Tel 600 14 within the Sierra Morena chain
Fiestas Patronales (8–16 Sep). 36 32. Open Tue–Sun. Closed 1 Jan, are also named individually.
∑ turismo.carmona.org Fuente Obejuna, north of
1 May & 25 Dec.
Córdoba, was immortalized by
Carmona is the first major town Lope de Vega (see p294) in his
east of Seville, its old quarter play about an uprising in 1476
built on a hill above the suburbs d Itálica against a local overlord. The
on the plain. Beyond the Puerta Avda de Extremadura 2, Santiponce, Iglesia de San Juan Bautista in
de Sevilla, a gateway in the Sevilla. Tel 955 12 38 47. @ from Hinojosa del Duque is a vast
Moorish city walls, is a dense Seville. Open 9am–2:30pm Sun & church in both Gothic and
cluster of mansions, Mudéjar pub hols; also 9am–5:30pm Tue–Sat Re naissance styles. Belalcázar is
churches, and winding streets. (Apr–mid-Jun: to 7:30pm, mid-Jun– dominated by the huge tower
The Plaza de San Fernando mid-Sep: to 2:30pm). & of a ruined 15th-century castle.
has a feeling of grandeur which Storks nest on the church
is charac terized by the Itálica was founded in 206 BC towers of the plateau of Valle de
Renaissance by Scipio Africanus. One of los Pedroches, to the east.
façade of the earliest Roman cities in Cazalla de la Sierra, the main
the old Hispania (see pp54–5), town of the sierra north of
Ayunta miento. it grew to become Seville, is popular with young
The present town important in the Sevillanos at weekends. Liquor
hall, set just off the 2nd and 3rd de Guindas, a concoction of
square, dates from the centuries AD. cherry liqueur and aniseed, is
18th century; in its Roman mosaic Emperor Hadrian, who produced here. Constantina, to
courtyard are some from Itálica was born in the city and the east, is more peaceful with
Roman mosaics. Close reigned from AD 117– superb views of the countryside.
by is the Iglesia de Santa María 138, added marble temples
la Mayor. Built in the 15th and other grand buildings.
century over a mosque, whose Archaeologists have specu-
patio still survives, this is the lated that the changing course
finest of Carmona’s churches. of the Río Guadalquivir may
Dominating the town are have led to Itálica’s later de mise
the ruins of the Alcázar del during Moorish times.
Rey Pedro, once a palace of Next to the vast but crum bling
Pedro I, known as Pedro the amphitheatre is a display of finds
Cruel. Parts of it now form a from the site. More treasures are
parador (see p572). displayed in the Museo
Just outside Carmona is Arqueológico in Seville (see p451).
the Necrópolis Romana, the Traces of Itálica’s streets and
extensive remains of a Roman the mosaic floors of some villas
burial ground. A site museum can be seen, but little remains of
displays some of the items the city’s tem ples or its baths, as
found in the graves, including most of the stone and marble A cow grazing in the pastures of the Sierra
statues, glass and jewellery. has been plundered over the Morena north of Seville
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp572–4 and pp598–602


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AND AL UCÍA  483

g Palma del Río provide blissful shade. An ideal
Córdoba. * 19,400. £ @ n Plaza place to sit and observe daily
Mayor de Andalucía s/n, 957 64 43 70. life passing by, this is also a spot
( Tue. _ Ferias (19–21 May & for evening strolls.
18–20 Aug). ∑ palmadelrio.es Écija has 11 Baroque church
steeples, many adorned with
The Romans sited a strategic gleaming azulejos (see p444),
settlement here, on the road and together they make a very
between Córdoba and Itálica, impressive sight. The most florid
almost 2,000 years ago. The of these is the Iglesia de Santa
remains of the 12th­ María, which overlooks the Plaza
century city walls are a de España. The Iglesia de San
reminder of the town’s Juan, with its exquisite, brightly
frontier days under the coloured bell tower, is a very
Almohads (see p58). close rival. Detail of woodcarving in the main hall of
The Iglesia de la Of the many mansions Medina Azahara
Asunción, a Baroque along Calle Emilio Castelar, the
church, dates from Baroque Palacio de Peñaflor is employ ing more than 15,000
the 18th century. worth a visit. Its pink marble mules, 4,000 camels and 10,000
The Mona sterio de doorway is topped by twisted wor kers to bring building mate­
San Francisco is columns, while an attractive rials from as far as North Africa.
now a hotel (see wrought­iron balcony runs The palace is built on three
p574), and guests along the whole front façade. levels and includes a mosque,
can eat dinner in the caliph’s residence and fine
the 15th­century P Palacio de Peñaflor gardens (see pp426–7). Marble,
refectory of Calle Emilio Castelar 26. Tel 954 83 ebony, jasper and alabaster once
the Franciscan 02 73. Closed for refurbishment. adorned its many halls, and it is
monks. Palma believed that shimmering pools
Bell tower, La del Río is the of quicksilver added lustre.
Asunción home town of El j Medina Azahara The glory was short­lived.
Cordobés, one of Córdoba. Tel 957 10 49 33. @ Cór doba. The palace was sacked by
Spain’s most famous matadors. Open 9am–8pm (to 3pm mid­Jun– Berber invaders in 1010 and
His biography, Or I’ll Dress You in mid­Sep, to 6pm mid­Sep–Mar) Tue– over subsequent centuries it
Mourning, paints a vivid picture Sat; 9am–6pm Sun & public hols. & was ransacked for its building
of life in the town and of the mat erials. Now, the ruins give
hardship which follow ed the Just a few kilometres north of only glimpses of its former
end of the Civil War. Córdoba lies this once glorious beauty – a Moorish main hall,
palace. Built in the 10th century for instance, decorated with
Environs for Caliph Abd al Rahman III, it is marble carvings and a carved
One of the most dramatic named after his favourite wife, wood ceiling. The palace is
silhouettes in Southern Spain Azahara. He spared no expense, currently being restored.
breaks the skyline of Almodóvar
del Río. The Moorish castle –
parts of it dating from the 8th
century – stands on a hilltop
over looking the whitewashed
town and fields of cotton.
+ Castillo de Almodóvar del Río
Tel 957 63 40 55. Open daily.
& Closed 1 Jan, 25 Dec.

h Écija
Sevilla. * 40,000. @ n Calle Elvira
1­A, Palacio de Benamejí, 955 90 29 33.
( Thu. _ Feria (21–24 Sep).
∑ turismoecija.com
Écija is nicknamed “the frying
pan of Andalucía” owing to its
famously torrid climate. In the
searing heat, the palm trees
on the Plaza de España Trompe l’oeil on the ornate Baroque façade of the Palacio de Peñaflor, Écija




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484  SOUTHERN SP AIN

k Street-by-Street: Córdoba

The heart of Córdoba is the old Jewish
quarter, situated to the west of the
Mezquita’s towering walls. A walk
around this area gives the sensation
that little has changed since the 10th B L A N CO
century, when this was one of the great­ B E L M O N T E
est cities in the Western world. Wrought
ironwork decorates cobbled streets
too narrow for cars, where silversmiths
create fine jewellery in their workshops. Sinagoga CÉSPEDES V í C T O R B O S C O
Hebrew script covers this
Most of the chief sights are here, while 14th-century synagogue. C A L L E LU Q U E
modern city life takes place some blocks Spain’s other synagogues are in
north, around the Plaza de Tendillas. Toledo, Madrid and Barcelona.
To the east of this square is the Plaza
de la Corredera, a 17th­century arcaded
square with a daily market. D E A N E S
CARDENAL
PL CARDENAL SALAZAR




M A N R í Q U E Z C A L L E D E T O R R I J O S
J U D í O S





Capilla de San Bartolome
This small church was built in
the Gothic-Mudéjar style. It is T O M Á S C O N D E
decorated with elaborate
plasterwork and tiles.
A M A D O R D E L O S R Í O S
Casa de Sefarad is a cultural
centre with exhibits on Judeo-
Spanish history in the heart of
the old Jewish quarter. A V E N I D A D O C T O R F L E M I N G











0 metres 100 S T A T E R E S A D E J O R N E T
0 yards 100
. Alcázar de los Reyes Cristianos
Water terraces fountains add to the tranquil
atmosphere of the gardens belonging to the Key
palace-fortress of the Catholic Monarchs Suggested route
(see pp60–61), built in the 14th century.
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp572–4 and pp598–602


484-485_EW_Spain.indd 484 26/09/17 11:56 am

C ORDOBA  485


The Callejón de las VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
Flores brims with
colourful gera niums, Practical Information
which contrast with the Córdoba. * 330,000.
whitewashed walls of this n Plaza del Triunfo s/n,
alley, leading to a 957 35 51 79. ( Tue, Fri & Sun.
tiny square. _ Semana Santa (Easter Week),
Festival de los Patios (5–11 May),
Feria (late May). Sinagoga: Open
Tue–Sun. & Casa de Sefarad:
B L A N CO
Open daily. & Alcázar de los
B E L M O N T E
Reyes Cristianos: Open Tue–Sun.
& ∑ turismodecordoba.org
Decorations on an early Christian
Transport sarcophagus, Museo Arqueológico
£ Glorieta de las Tres Culturas,
CÉSPEDES
V í C T O R B O S C O
902 43 23 43. @ Glorieta de las Exploring Córdoba
Tres Culturas, 957 40 40 40. Córdoba lies on a sharp bend
HERRERO in the Río Guadalquivir, which
is spanned by a Roman bridge
linking the 14th-century Torre
Palacio de la Calahorra and the old
town. One of the most atmos-
CARDENAL Episcopal pheric squares in Andalucía is
the Plaza de los Capuchinos.
With its haunting stone calvary,
it is particularly evoca tive when
M A G I S T R A L G O N Z Á L E Z F R A N C É S
seen by moonlight.
E Museo de Bellas Artes
C O R R E G I D O R Exhibits in a former charity
Plaza del Potro 2. Tel 957 10 36 59.
Open Tue–Sun.
Q U E B R A D O
C A L L E D E T O R R I J O S
hospital include sculptures
by local artist Mateo Inurria
(1867–1924) and works by
Puerta del Valdés Leal, Zurbarán and
Puente Murillo of the Seville School.
E Museo Arqueológico
Plaza Jerónimo Páez 7.
Tel 957 35 55 29. Open Tue–Sun. &
Located in a Renaissance
A M A D O R D E L O S R Í O S museum on its southeast side remains of a Roman theatre
mansion, displays include the
found beneath the building,
Roman pottery and impressive
finds from the Moorish era.
The Puente Romano
spans the Río Guadal quivir. A
P Palacio de Viana
R O N D A D E I S A S A explores the different cultures Plaza Don Gome 2. Tel 957 49 67 41.
Open Tue–Sun (am only Sun & public
of medieval Córdoba.
hols). & 8
Furniture, tapestries, paintings
and porcelain are displayed in
the 17th-century former home
of the Viana family.
E Museo Romero de Torres
S T A T E R E S A D E J O R N E T
Plaza del Potro 1. Tel 957 47 03 56.
. Mezquita Open Tue–Sun. & (free Fri).
The mighty walls of the Julio Romero de Torres
Great Mosque (see pp486–7) (1874–1930), who was born
hide delicate arches, pillars in this house, captured the soul
and a dazzling mihrab. of Córdoba in his paintings.
484-485_EW_Spain.indd 485 26/09/17 11:56 am

486  SOUTHERN SP AIN

Córdoba: the Mezquita

Córdoba’s Great Mosque, dating back
12 centuries, embodied the power of Islam
on the Iberian Peninsula. Abd al Rahman I
(see pp56–7) built the original mosque
between AD 785 and 787. The building
evolved over the centuries, blending
many architectural forms. In the
10th century al Hakam II made some
of the most lavish additions, including
the elaborate mihrab (prayer niche) Patio de los Naranjos
and the maqsura (caliph’s enclosure). Orange trees grow in the courtyard where
the faithful washed before prayer.
During the 16th century a cathedral
was built in the heart of the
reconsecrated mosque, part of
which was destroyed.



KEY
1 Puerta de San Esteban is set
in a section of wall from an earlier
Visigothic church.
2 The Puerta del Perdón is a
Mudéjar-style entrance gate, built
during Christian rule in 1377.
Penitents were pardoned here.
3 Torre del Alminar, a bell tower
93 m (305 ft) high, is built on the
site of the original minaret. Steep
steps lead to the top for a fine
view of Córdoba.
4 Capilla Mayor
5 The cathedral choir has
Churrigueresque stalls carved by
Pedro Duque Cornejo in 1758.
6 Capilla Real



Expansion of
the Mezquita
Abd al Rahman I built the
original mosque. Extensions
were added by Abd al Rahman
II, al Hakam II and al Mansur.

Key to Additions
Mosque of Abd al Rahman I
Extension by Abd al Rahman II
Extension by al Hakam II
Extension by al Mansur
Patio de los Naranjos


For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp572–4 and pp598–602


486-487_EW_Spain.indd 486 26/09/17 11:56 am

C ORDOBA  487


Cathedral VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
Part of the mosque
was destroyed to Practical Information
accommodate the Calle Torrijos 10. Tel 957 47 05 12.
cathedral, started in Open 10am–7pm Mon–Sat,
1523. Featuring an 8:30–11:30am, 3–7pm Sun &
Italianate dome, it pub hols (Nov–Feb: to 6pm
was designed chiefly Mon–Sat, 8:30–11:30am,
by members of the 3–6pm Sun & pub hols). &
Hernán Ruiz family. 5 9:30am Mon–Sat; 11am,
noon & 1:30pm Sun & hols.














. Arches and Pillars
More than 850 columns of granite,
jasper and marble support the roof,
creating a dazzling visual effect.
Many were taken from Roman and
Visigothic buildings.





























. Mihrab . Capilla de Villaviciosa
This prayer niche, richly The first Christian chapel
ornamented, held a gilt copy of was built in the mosque in
the Koran. The worn flag stones 1371 by Mudéjar (see p59)
indicate where pilgrims circled it craftsmen. Its multi-lobed
seven times on their knees. arches are stunning.




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488  SOUTHERN SP AIN

z Priego de Environs
Córdoba Zuheros, perched on a crag in
the limestone hills northwest
Córdoba. * 23,000. @ n Plaza of Priego, is one of Andalucía’s
de la Constitución 3, 957 70 06 25. pret tiest villages. Rute, to the
( Sat. _ Feria Real (1–5 Sep). southwest, is known for its
∑ turismodepriego.com
anís (see p581).
Alcalá la Real, in the lowlands
Priego de Cordóba’s claim to be east of Priego, is overlooked by
the capital of Cordoban Baroque the hilltop ruins of a castle and
is borne out by the dazzling work a church. There are two hand­
of carvers, ironworkers and some Renaissance buildings on
gilders in the many houses, and its central square: the Fuente de
especially churches, built with Carlos V and the Palacio Abacia.
wealth generated by a pros­
perous 18th­century silk industry.
A restored Moorish fortress x Montefrío
stands in the whitewashed Granada. * 7,000. @ n Plaza
Baroque statuary in the Fuente del Rey medieval quarter, the Barrio de España 1, 958 33 60 04. ( Mon.
at Priego de Córdoba la Villa. Close by is the out stand­ _ Fiesta patronal (14–18 Aug).
ing Iglesia de la Asunción,
l Montilla converted from Gothic to The approach to Montefrío from
Córdoba. * 23,000. £ @ n Capi­ Baroque style by Jerónimo the south offers wonder ful views
tán Alonso de Vargas 3, 957 65 24 62. Sánchez de Rueda. Its pièce de of tiled rooftops and pretty white­
( Fri. _ Grape Harvest (late Aug). résistance is the sacristy, created washed hous es. This archetypal
in 1784 by local artist Andalucían town is topped by
Montilla is the centre of an Francisco Javier the remains of its
important wine region that Pedrajas. The main Moorish fortifica tions
produces an excellent smooth altar is Plateresque and the 16th­century
white fino (see p424). Unlike (see p29). Gothic Iglesia de
sherry, it is not fortified with At midnight every la Villa. In the centre of
alcohol. Several bodegas, Saturday the brother­ town is the Neo­
including Alvear and Pérez hood of another Classical Iglesia de la
Barquero, will show visitors Baroque church, the Encar nación, designed
around by prior arrangement. Iglesia de la Aurora, by Ventura Rodríguez
The Mudéjar Convento de parades the streets (1717–85). The town is
Santa Clara dates from 1512. singing songs in known for its chorizo,
The town library and tourist praise of the Virgin. as well as its numerous
office is in the Casa del Inca, so Silk merchants built La Asunción, stone crosses, thought
named because Garcilaso de la many of the splendid Priego de Córdoba to have been con­
Vega, who wrote about the mansions that follow structed in the 16th
Incas, lived there in the 1500s. the curve around the Calle del and 17th centuries.
Río. At the street’s end is the
Environs Baroque Fuente del Rey (The Environs
Aguilar, 13 km (8 miles) to the King’s Fountain). The 139 spouts Santa Fé was built by the
south, has the unusual, eight­sided splash water into three basins Catholic Monarchs at the end
Plaza de San José (built in 1810) adorned with a riot of statuary. of the 15th century. Their army
and several seigneurial houses.
Baena, 40 km (25 miles) to
the west of Montilla, has been
famous for its olive oil since
Roman times. On the Plaza
de la Constitución is the Casa
del Monte, an mansion dating
from the 18th century. At
Easter thousands of costumed
drummers take to the streets.

 Bodega Alvear
Avda María Auxiliadora 1. Tel 957 65
01 00. Open Mon–Fri. 8 12:30pm.
 Bodega Pérez Barquero
Avenida de Andalucía 27. Tel 957 65
05 00. Open Mon–Fri. Closed Aug. & Barrels of Montilla, the sherry-like wine from the town of the same name
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp572–4 and pp598–602


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AND AL UCÍA  489


rise to more than 2,000 m
(6,560 ft). The Phoenicians
founded the first settlement
here, called Sexi, and the Romans
constructed an aque duct, the
remains of which can be seen
today. Almuñécar is now a
popular holiday resort.
Above the Old Town is the
castle, built by the Moors and
altered in the 1500s. Below it
is the Parque Ornitológico,
which has an aviary and
The castle overlooking the resort of Almuñécar on the Costa Tropical botanic gardens. The Museo
Arqueológico Cueva de Siete
camped here while laying siege Environs Palacios displays a vari ety of
to Granada, and this was the site In Vélez-Málaga, the ruins of the Phoenician artifacts.
of the formal surrender of the Fortaleza de Belén, a Moorish
Moors in 1492 (see pp60–61). fortress, dominate the medieval Environs
A Moor’s severed head, carved Barrio de San Sebastián. The ancient white town of
in stone, adorns the spire of the Salobreña is set amid fields
parish church. } Cuevas de Nerja of sugar cane. Narrow streets
Sited above a gorge, Alhama Carretera de las Cuevas de Nerja. lead up a hill to a restored
de Granada was named Al Tel 952 52 95 20. Open daily. Arab castle with fine views of
hamma (hot springs) by the Closed 1 Jan, 15 May. & the Sierra Nevada (see p491).
Moors. Their baths, close to
the spot where the hot water O Parque Ornitológico
gushes from the ground just v Almuñécar Plaza de Abderraman. Tel 958 63
outside town, can be seen in Granada. * 22,000. @ n Avda 56 17. Open daily.
the Hotel Balneario. Europa, 958 63 11 25. ( Fri, 1st Sat of E Museo Arqueológico Cueva
Loja, on the Río Genil, near each month. _ Virgen de la Anti gua de Siete Palacios
Los Infiernos gorge, is known as (15 Aug). ∑ almunecar.info Calle Cueva de Siete Palacios s/n.
“the city of water” because of its Tel 607 86 54 66. Open Tue–Sun. &
spring-fed fountains. Almuñécar lies on the Costa + Castillo de Salobreña
Tropical, so named because its Calle Andrés Segovia. Tel 958 61 03 14.
climate allows the cultivation of
c Nerja exotic fruit. Inland, moun tains Open daily. Closed pub hols. & 8
Málaga. * 18,000. @ n Calle
Carmen 1, 952 52 15 31. ( Sun.
_ Feria (9–12 Oct). ∑ nerja.org
This well-established resort,
built on a cliff above sandy
coves, lies at the foot of the
beautiful Sierra de Almijara.
There are sweeping views up
and down the coast from the
rocky promontory known as
El Balcón de Europa (the Balcony
of Europe). Along it runs a
promenade lined with cafés
and restaurants.
East of the town are the
Cuevas de Nerja, a series of vast
caverns which were dis covered
in 1959. Wall paint ings found
here are believed to be about
20,000 years old. Only a few of
the many cathe dral-sized
chambers are open to public
view. One of these has been
converted into an impressive
auditorium which has a capacity
of several hundred people. One of the succession of sandy coves that make up the resort of Nerja




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490  SOUTHERN SP AIN



















The majestic peaks of the Sierra Nevada towering, in places, to over 3,000 m (9,800 ft) above sea level
b Lanjarón town a long history as a health de San Juan. Every one in the
spa. From June to October, streets gets doused.
Granada. * 24,000. @ n Avenida
de Madrid s/n, 958 77 04 62. ( Tue visitors flock to take the waters The town is on the threshold
& Fri. _ San Juan (24 Jun). for arthritic, dietary and of Las Alpujarras, a scenic
nervous ailments. Bottled up land area of dramatic land-
Scores of clear, snow-fed water from Lanjarón is sold all scapes, where steep, terraced
springs bubble from the slopes over the country. hillsides and deep-cut valleys
of the Sierra Nevada; their A major festival begins on the conceal remote, whitewashed
abundance at Lanjarón, on the night of 23 June and ends in an villages. Roads to and from
southern side of this great range uproarious water battle in the Lanjarón wind slowly and
of mountains, has given the early hours of 24 June, the Día diz zily around the slopes.
n A Tour of Las Alpujarras

The fertile, upland valleys of Las Alpujarras, clothed with
chestnut, walnut and poplar trees, lie on the southern
slopes of the Sierra Nevada. The architecture of the
quaint white villages which cling to the hillsides – 4 Trevélez
compact clusters of irregularly shaped houses with tall Trevélez, in the shadow of Mulhacén,
chimneys sprouting from flat, grey roofs – is unique in Spain’s highest mountain, is famous N E V A D A
Spain. Local specialities are ham cured in the cold, dry for its cured ham.
air of Trevélez and brightly coloured, handwoven rugs. S I E R R A
Mulhacén
2 Poqueira Valley 3,479 m Trevélez
Capileira, Bubión and Pampaneira 11,410 ft
are three villages typical of Las
Alpujarras in this pretty river valley.
Poqueira Juviles

Pórtugos
Pitres

Guadalfeo
Lanjarón
Granada
1 Orgiva C O N T R A V I E S A
This is the largest town of 3 Fuente Agria S I E R R A D E L A
the region, with a Baroque People come to this spring to
church in the main street drink the iron-rich, naturally
and a lively Thursday market. carbonated waters.

For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp572–4 and pp598–602


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AND AL UCÍA  491

m Laujar de church, La Encarnación, is a , Sierra Nevada
Andarax statue of the Virgin by Alonso Granada. @ from Granada.
Cano. Next to the Baroque town
Almería. * 2,000. @ n Carretera hall (ayuntamiento) is a fountain n Plaza de Andalucía, Cetursa
AL–5402 Láujar–Berja, km 1, 950 51 41 inscribed with some lines Sierra Nevada, 958 24 91 11.
49. ( 3 & 17 of each month. _ San written by Francisco Villespesa, ∑ sierranevada.es
Vicente (22 Jan), San Marcos (25 Apr), a dramatist and poet who was Fourteen peaks more than
Virgen de la Salud (19 Sep).
born in Laujar in 1877: “Six 3,000 m (9,800 ft) high crown
Laujar, in the arid foothills of the fountains has my pueblo/He the Sierra Nevada. The snow
Sierra Nevada, looks who drinks their waters/will lingers until July and begins
southwards across never forget them/so falling again in late autumn.
the Andarax Valley heav enly is their taste.” One of Europe’s highest
towards the Sierra El Nacimiento, a roads, the A395, runs past
de Gádor. park to the Solynieve, an expanding ski
Andarax was east of Laujar, resort at 2,100 m (6,890 ft),
founded by is a suitable and skirts the two highest
one of the place to have a peaks, Pico Veleta at 3,398 m
grandsons of picnic. You can (11,149 ft) and Mulhacén
Noah. In the accompa ny it at 3,482 m (11,420 ft).
16th century, with one of The Sierra’s closeness to the
Abén Humeya, the area’s hearty Mediterranean and its altitude
leader of the greatest red wines. Ohanes, account for the great diversity
Morisco rebellion (see above the Andarax of the indigenous flora and
p63), made his base Painting, Iglesia de la valley further to the fauna found on its slopes – the
here. The revolt was Encarnación east, is an attractive latter including golden eagles
crushed by Christian hill town of steep and some rare butterflies.
troops and Abén Humeya was streets and whitewashed There are several mountain
killed by his own followers. houses known for its crops refuges for the use of serious
Inside Laujar’s 17th-century of table grapes. hikers and climbers.
Lacalahorra
6 Yegen 8 Puerto de la Ragua
A plaque marks the This pass, which leads across the
house where Gerald mountains to Guadix, is nearly
Brenan, the author of 2,000 m (6,560 ft) high and is
South from Granada, often snowbound in winter.
lived in the 1920s.

N E V A D A

S I E R R A Alcol ea
Macina 7 Válor

Abén Humeya, leader of a rebellion
by Moriscos in the 16th century, was
born here. A commemorative battle
between Moors and Christians is
Cherín staged each year in mid-September.
Yátor Ugíjar

Ugíjar 5 Cádiar Tips for Drivers
Free wine is traditionally
on tap during the village’s Tour length: 85 km (56 miles).
October fiesta. Stopping-off points: There
are bars and restaurants in
C O N T R A V I E S A Key Orgiva, Capileira, Bubión (see
S I E R R A D E L A p599) and Trevélez. Orgiva,
Tour route Bubión and Trevélez have
0 kilometres 5 good hotels. Orgiva is the last
Other roads
0 miles 5 petrol stop before Cádiar.
Mountain peak




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492  SOUTHERN SP AIN

. Granada

The guitarist Andrés Segovia (1893–1987) described
Granada as a “place of dreams, where the Lord put the seed
of music in my soul”. It was first occupied by the Moors in
the 8th century, and its golden period came during the
rule of the Nasrid dynasty (see pp58–9) from 1238 to 1492,
when artisans, merchants, scholars and scientists all
contributed to the city’s international reputation as a
centre for culture. Under Christian rule, following its fall
to the Catholic Monarchs in 1492 and the expulsion of the
Moors (see pp60–61), the city blossomed in Renaissance
splendour. There was a period of decline in the 19th
century, but Granada has been the subject of renewed
interest and many efforts have been made to restore it to
its past glory.
Entrance to the Moorish mihrab in the
Palacio de la Madraza
began in 1523 to plans in a
Gothic style by Enrique de Egas. It P Palacio de la Madraza
continued under the Renaissance Calle Oficios 14. Tel 958 99 63 50.
maestro, Diego de Siloé, who also Open 9am–2pm, 5–8pm Mon–Fri.
designed the façade and the Originally an Arab university (now
magnificent Capilla Mayor. Under part of Granada University), this
its dome, 16th-century windows building later became the city
depict Juan del Campo’s The hall. The façade is 18th century.
Passion. The west front was The Moorish hall has a finely
designed by Alonso Cano, who decorated mihrab (prayer niche).
was born in the city. His grave
can be seen in the cathedral. P Corral del Carbón
Calle Mariana Pineda. Tel 958 22
R Capilla Real 59 90. Open 10:30am–1:30pm,
Calle Oficios 3. Tel 958 22 92 39. Open 5–8pm Mon–Fri, 10:30am–2pm
Façade of Granada Cathedral daily. Closed Jan 1, Good Fri, Dec 25. Sat. Closed public hols.
The Royal Chapel was built for A relic of the Moorish era,
Exploring Granada the Catholic Monarchs between this galleried courtyard was a Monasterio de
la Cartuja
The old city centre around the 1506 and 1521 by Enrique de theatre in Christian times. Today PLAZA DEL PL. DE LA
cathedral is a maze of narrow Egas. A magnifi cent reja (grille) it houses a cultural centre. Estación Central TRIUNFO MERCED CUESTA DE LA ALHACABA
800m (880 yards)
one-way streets. It contains the by Maestro Bartolomé de Jaén CÓRDOBA PANADEROS
SEVILLE
PLAZA
Alcaicería – a reconstruction of encloses the high altar and the P Casa de los Tiros NARANJOS Palacio de las Pesas Iglesia del
Arco de
DE LOS
a Moorish bazaar that burned Carrara marble figures of Calle Pavaneras 19. Tel 958 22 06 29. Daralhorra Salvador
down in 1843. Granada’s two Fernando and Isabel, their Open mid-Sep–May: 10am–8:30pm Convento de PLAZA S. Mirador de
Santa Isabel
NICOLAS
main squares are the Plaza daughter Juana la Loca (the Mad) Tue–Sat, 10am–5pm Sun & pub hols; ZENET E PL. SAN SANTA ISABEL NUEVA DE SAN NI COLÁS San Nicolás
MIGUEL
Bib-Rambla, near the cathedral, and her husband Felipe el Her- Jun–mid-Sep: 9am–3:30pm Tue–Sat, CRU Z DE QUIR Ó S BAJO SE C O PILA R
FRAILES DE
and the Plaza Nueva. From the moso (the Fair). Their coffins are in 10am–5pm Sun & pub hols. G R A N V Í A D E C O LÓ N S A N J O S É San Juan S. AGUSTÍN Sacromonte
latter, Cuesta de Gomérez leads the crypt. In the sacristy there are Closed 1 Jan, 1 May, 25 Dec. E L V I R A QUIJA DA M ULADAR de los Reyes TOQUEROS CUESTA D E L CHAPI Z
PLAC. DE
S A N JU A N DE LOS RE YE S
up to the city’s two principal art treasures, includ ing paintings Built in Mudéjar style in the TENDILLAS PLAC. Convento
de Santa
DE LA
CUESTA
monuments: the Alhambra by Botticelli and Van der Weyden. 1500s, this palace owes its name PL. DE S. MARAÑAS PLACETA CRUZ VERDE Catalina C. DE LA VICTORIA
and the Generalife. On a hill AGUSTÍN PORRAS El Bañuelo
SAN
Darro
opposite is the Albaicín district. SAN JERÓ NI M O AGUSTÍN C. CALDERÍA Casa de CARRERA DEL DARRO PASEO DE LOS TRISTES
San Pedro
NUEVA
Churches well worth a visit CÁRCEL Chancillería los Pisa y San Pablo Jardines
Real
Altos
are the Iglesia de San Juan de Capilla PLAZA Iglesia de Alcazaba Casas Reales
Santa Ana
Dios, almost overwhelming in Cathedral Real NUEVA
Palacio
Generalife
its wealth of Baroque decor- PL. A. Palacio de de Carlos V CUESTA DEL REY C HICO
la Madraza
ation, and the Renaissance CANO CUE S TA DE GOMÉREZ Jardínes
PLAZA
Iglesia de San Jerónimo. PL. BIB- ISABEL LA Iglesia de del Portal
RAMBLA Corral del Casa de Santa Maria
CATÓLICA
R Cathedral Centro Cultural REYES CATÓLICOS Carbón los Tiros PASEO CENT RAL Alhambra
Calle Gran Vía 5. Tel 958 22 29 59. Caja Granada PLAZA Ayuntamiento PAVANE R A S LOS ALAMIL L OS
700m
Open daily. & (700 yards) DEL CARMEN PASEO DEL GENERA LIFE
CALLEJON NINA DEL ROJO
On the orders of the Catholic
Monarchs, work on the cathe dral Grille by Maestro Bartolomé de Jaén enclosing the altar of the Capilla Real
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp572–4 and pp598–602
492-493_EW_Spain.indd 492 26/09/17 11:56 am

GR ANAD A  493


VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
Practical Information
Granada. * 241,000. n Santa
Ana 4, 958 57 52 02. ( Sat &
Sun. _ Semana Santa (Easter),
Día de la Cruz (3 May), Corpus
Christi (May/Jun).
∑ granadatur.com
Transport
k 12 km (7 miles) southwest
of city. £ Avenida Andaluces,
902 43 23 43. @ Carretera de
Jaen, 902 42 22 42.
Cupola in the sanctuary of the Monasterio de la Cartuja
to the muskets projecting P El Bañuelo A cultural centre with a theatre,
from its battle ments (tiro means Carrera del Darro 31. Tel 958 02 78 restaurant and the superb
“shot”). It originally belonged 00. Open 10am–2pm Tue–Sat. Memoria de Andalucia Museum.
to the family that was awarded Closed public hols.
the Generalife after the fall These columnated Arab baths R Monasterio de la Cartuja
of Granada. Among their pos­ were built in the 11th century. Paseo de la Cartuja. Tel 958 16 19 32.
sessions was a sword that had Open daily.
belonged to Boabdil. This is E Centro Cultural Founded in 1516 by Christian
carved on the façade, along with Caja Granada warrior, El Gran Capitán, this
statues of Mercury, Hercules Avenida de la Ciencia, 2. Tel 958 22 22 monastery outside Granada
and Jason. 57. Open 8:30am–2pm Mon–Wed, has a dazzling cupola by Antonio
8:30am–2pm, 4:30–7pm Thu–Sat, Palomino, and a Churriguer­
P Alhambra and Generalife 11am–2pm Sun, public hols. & esque (see p29) sacristy by Luis
See pp496–8. ∑ memoriadeandalucia.com de Arévalo and Luis Caballo.
Granada City Centre
0 metres 250
1 Cathedral 5 Casa de los Tiros 250
2 Capilla Real 6 Alhambra 0 yards
3 Palacio de la Madraza 7 El Bañuelo
4 Corral del Carbón 8 Centro Cultural
Caja Granada
Monasterio de
la Cartuja
PLAZA DEL
Estación Central TRIUNFO PL. DE LA
800m (880 yards) MERCED CUESTA DE LA ALHACABA
CÓRDOBA PANADEROS
SEVILLE
PLAZA
DE LOS Palacio de Arco de Iglesia del
NARANJOS las Pesas Salvador
Daralhorra Convento de PLAZA S.
ZENET E CRU Z DE QUIR Ó S PL. SAN SANTA ISABEL SE C O PILA R NUEVA DE SAN NI COLÁS Mirador de
Santa Isabel
NICOLAS
San Nicolás
MIGUEL
BAJO
FRAILES DE
San Juan
PLAC. DE
TENDILLAS G R A N V Í A D E C O LÓ N E L V I R A S A N J O S É QUIJA DA M ULADAR de los Reyes S. AGUSTÍN TOQUEROS CUESTA D E L CHAPI Z Sacromonte
S A N JU A N DE LOS RE YE S
Convento
PLAC.
DE LA
CUESTA CRUZ VERDE de Santa C. DE LA VICTORIA
Catalina
PL. DE S. MARAÑAS PLACETA
AGUSTÍN PORRAS El Bañuelo
SAN
AGUSTÍN C. CALDERÍA Casa de CARRERA DEL DARRO PASEO DE LOS TRISTES Darro
San Pedro
NUEVA
CÁRCEL Chancillería los Pisa y San Pablo Jardines
Real
Altos
SAN JERÓ NI M O
Iglesia de
Capilla PLAZA Santa Ana Alcazaba Casas Reales
Cathedral Real NUEVA
Palacio de Palacio Generalife
PL. A. la Madraza de Carlos V CUESTA DEL REY C HICO
CANO CUE S TA DE GOMÉREZ
Jardínes
PLAZA
PL. BIB- ISABEL LA Iglesia de del Portal
CATÓLICA
RAMBLA REYES CATÓLICOS Corral del Casa de Santa Maria
los Tiros
Centro Cultural Carbón PASEO CENT RAL Alhambra
Caja Granada PLAZA Ayuntamiento PAVANE RA S LOS ALAMIL L OS
700m DEL CARMEN
(700 yards) PASEO DEL GENERA LIFE
CALLEJON NINA DEL ROJO
For keys to symbols see back flap
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494  SOUTHERN SP AIN

Street-by-Street: The Albaicín

This corner of the city, on the hillside opposite the Alhambra,
is where one feels closest to Granada’s Moorish ancestry.
Now mostly pedes trianized, this was the site of the first
fortress, built in the 13th century, along with more than
30 mosques. Most of the city’s churches were built over their
sites. Along the cobbled alleys stand cármenes, villas with
Moorish decoration and gardens, secluded from the world
by high walls. In the jasmine-scented air of evening, stroll up
to the Mirador de San Nicolás for a magical view over the
roof tops of the Alhambra glowing in the sunset.


Street in the Albaicín
Steep and sinuous, the
Albaicín’s streets are truly
Real labyrinthine. Many street
Chancillería names start with Cuesta,
Built in 1530 by meaning “slope”.
the Catholic
Monarchs, the
Royal Chancery
has a beautiful
Renaissance
façade.
J U A N
S A N
C A L L E C U E S TA S A N TA I N É S C A R N E R O



C A L L E




D A R R O
A I R E
C Á R C E L
A C E I T U N E R O S
D E L
C A R R E R A
P I S A S
A LTA
A N A
S A N TA
P L A Z A
S A N TA A N A
Casa de los Pisa, also known as
Museo San Juan de Dios, displays
works of art – some depicting St John
of God, who died here in 1550.
. Iglesia de Santa Ana
Just north of Plaza Nueva
stands this 16th-century
0 metres 50
brick church in Mudéjar
0 yards 50 style. It has an elegant
Plateresque portal and,
inside, a coffered ceiling.
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp572–4 and pp598–602


494-495_EW_Spain.indd 494 26/09/17 11:56 am

GR ANAD A  495


. Museo
Arqueológico
The ornate Plateresque
carvings on the
museum’s façade
include this relief of two
shields. They show
heraldic devices of the
Nasrid kings of Granada,
who were defeated by
the Catholic Monarchs
in 1492 (see pp60–61).
Key
Carrera del Darro Suggested route
The road along the Río Darro leads
past crumbling bridges and the To Mirador
de San Nicolás
fine façades of ancient buildings,
now all restored.




R E Y E S C A L L E C A R R E T E R A
L O S
D E C A L L E D E L
J U A N C O N C E P C I Ó N Z A F R A G L O R I A
P L A Z A
C A R N E R O C O N C E P C I Ó N S A N T Í S I M O


To Sacromonte
C A R R E R A D E L D A R R O
B A Ñ U E L O

R ío D arrio
C U E S TA S A N TA I N É S

The Convento de Santa
Catalina was founded in 1521.
Sacromonte
A N A
Granada’s gypsies formerly lived in the caves honey combing
this hillside. In the past, travellers would go there to enjoy
spontaneous outbursts of flamenco. Today, virtually all
the gypsies have moved away, but touristy flamenco
shows of variable quality are still performed here in the
evenings (see pp428–9). Sitting at the very top of the hill is
the Abadía del Sacromonte, a Benedictine monastery. The
ashes of St Cecilio,
Granada’s patron
saint, are
kept inside.
. El Bañuelo
Star-shaped openings in the vaults
let light into these well-preserved Aerial view of the
Moorish baths, which were built in Abadía del Sacromonte
the 11th century.




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496  SOUTHERN SP AIN


The Alhambra
A magical use of space, light, water and
decoration characterizes this most sensual
piece of architecture. It was built under Ismail I,
Yusuf I and Muhammad V caliphs when the
Nasrid dynasty (see pp58–9) ruled Granada.
Seeking to belie an image of waning power,
they created their idea of paradise on Earth.
Modest materials were used (plaster, timber
and tiles), but they were superbly worked.
Al though the Alhambra suffered pillage and . Salón de Embajadores
The ceiling of this
decay, including an attempt by Napoleon’s sumptuous throne
troops to blow it up, in recent times it has room, built from 1334
undergone extensive restoration and its to 1354, represents the
delicate craftsmanship still dazzles the eye. seven heavens of
the Muslim cosmos.
. Patio de
Arrayanes
This pool, set amid
myrtle hedges and
graceful arcades,
reflects light into the
surround ing halls.



















Entrance



KEY
1 Patio de Machuca 5 Jardín de Lindaraja sumptuous feasts. Beautiful
2 Patio del Mexuar was a 6 Baños Reales ceiling paintings on leather,
council chamber where the from the 14th century, depict
reigning sultan listened to the 7 Sala de las Dos Hermanas, tales of hunting and chivalry.
with its honeycomb dome,
petitions of his subjects and 9 Puerta de la Rawda
met with his ministers. It was is regarded as the ultimate
example of Spanish Islamic
completed in 1365. 0 The Palace of Charles V
architecture. (1526) houses a collection of
3 Sala de la Barca
8 Sala de los Reyes, a great Spanish Islamic art, whose
4 Washington Irving’s banqueting hall, was used to highlight is the Alhambra
apartments hold extrava gant parties and vase (see p58).
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp572–4 and pp598–602

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GR ANAD A  497


Palacio del Partal VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
A pavilion with
an arched portico Practical Information
and a tower is all Alhambra and Generalife. Tel 958
that remains of 92 60 31. Open 8:30am–8pm
this palace, the daily (mid-Oct–mid-Mar: to 6pm
oldest building daily). Arrive 1 hour before
in the Alhambra.
scheduled visit; allow 3 hours
for visit. Night visits: Mar–Oct:
10–11:30pm Fri & Sat; Nov–Feb:
8–9:30pm Fri & Sat. & 8
∑ alhambra-patronato.es
Transport
@ 2, C3, C4.















. Sala de los Abencerrajes
This hall takes its name from a noble
family, who were rivals of Boabdil
(see pp60–61). According to legend,
he had them massacred while they
attended a banquet here. The
geometrical ceiling pattern was
inspired by Pythagoras’ theorem.




. Patio de los Leones
The patio, which is lined by
arcades supported by slender
columns, has as a centrepiece the
meticulously restored marble
fountain with its 12 lions.

Plan of the Alhambra To the Generalife
Main gate



Key
Palacios Nazaríes (shown above)
Palace of Charles V
The Alhambra complex includes the Alcazaba
Palacios Nazaríes, the 13th-century Gardens
Alcazaba, the 16th-century Palace of Iglesia de Santa Maria
Charles V, and the Generalife (see p498), Other buildings
which is located just off the map.





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498  SOUTHERN SP AIN


Granada: Generalife
From the Alhambra’s northern side, a footpath leads to
the Generalife, the country estate of the Nasrid kings.
Here, they could escape from palace intrigues and enjoy
tranquillity high above the city, a little closer to heaven.
The name Generalife, or Yannat al Arif, has various
interpretations, perhaps the most pleasing being
“the garden of lofty paradise”. The gardens, begun
in the 13th century, have been modified over the years.
They originally contained orchards and pastures. The
Generalife provides a magical setting for Granada’s The Patio de la Acequia is an enclosed
annual music and dance festival (see p45). Oriental garden built round a long
central pool. Rows of water jets on
Sala Regia either side make graceful arches
above it.
Jardines Altos
(Upper Gardens)



























The Escalera del Agua
is a staircase with water
flowing gently down it.
The Patio de los Cipreses, otherwise
known as the Patio de la Sultana, was
the secret meeting place for Zoraya,
Entrance wife of the Sultan Abu-l-Hasan, and her
lover, the chief of the Abencerrajes.
The Patio de Polo
was the courtyard The Patio del Generalife lies just before
where palace the entrance to the Generalife. The walk
visitors, arriving on from the Alhambra to the Generalife
horse back, would
tether their steeds. gardens passes first through the Jardines
Bajos (lower gardens), before crossing this
Moorish patio with its characteristically
geometric pool.
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp572–4 and pp598–602


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