(DK Eyewitness) Travel Guide - Spain

MUSEO DEL PR ADO  299


Flemish and Dutch French Painting
Painting Marriages between French
Spain’s long connection with the and Spanish royalty in the
Low Countries naturally resulted 17th century, culminating
in an intense admira tion for the in the Bourbon accession to
so-called Flemish primitives. the throne in the 18th century,
Many exceptional examples brought French art to Spain.
of Flemish and Dutch art now The Prado has eight works
hang in the Prado. St Barbara, attributed to Poussin, among
by Robert Campin, has a quirky them his serene St Cecilia and
intimacy, while Rogier van der Landscape with St Jerome.
Weyden’s The Descent from the The magnificent Landscape
Cross is an unques tioned with the Embarkation of St Paula
masterpiece. Most notable of all, David Victorious over Goliath (c.1600) Romana at Ostia is the best
however, are Hieronymus Bosch’s by Caravaggio work here by Claude Lorrain.
weird and eloquent inventions. Among the 18th-century
The Prado has some of his commissioned by two rich artists featured are Antoine
major paintings, including The Florentine families and are a Watteau and Jean Ranc.
Temptation of St Anthony and sinister high point. Felipe V is the work of the
The Haywain. Works from the Raphael contributes the royal portraitist Louis-Michel
16th century include The Triumph superb Christ Falls on the Way to van Loo.
of Death by Bruegel the Elder. Calvary and the sentimental The
There are nearly 100 canvases by Holy Family of the Lamb. Christ
the 17th-century Flemish painter Washing the Disciples’ Feet, an
Peter Paul Rubens, including The early work by Tintoretto, is a
Adoration of the Magi. The most profound masterpiece and
notable Dutch painting on reveals the painter’s brilliant
display is Rembrandt’s Artemisia, handling of perspective.
a portrait of the artist’s wife. Caravaggio had a profound
Other Flemish and Dutch impact on Spanish artists, who
artists featured at the Prado are admired his characteristic
Antonis Moor, Anton Van Dyck handling of light, as seen in
and Jacob Jordaens, considered David Victorious over Goliath.
one of the finest portrait Venetian masters Veronese
painters of the 17th century. and Titian are also very well
represented. Titian served as
court painter to Charles V, and
Italian Painting few works express the drama of
The Prado is the envy of many Habsburg rule so deeply as his
museums, not least for its vast sombre painting The Emperor St Cecilia (c.1635) by the French artist
collection of Italian paintings. Charles V at Mühlberg. Also on Nicolas Poussin
Botticelli’s dramatic wooden display are works by Giordano
panels telling The Story of and Tiepolo, the master of
Nastagio degli Onesti, a Italian Rococo, who
vision of a knight painted The Immaculate German Painting
forever condemned to Conception as part of a Although German art is not
hunt down and kill his series intended for a especially well represented
own beloved, were church in Aranjuez. in the Prado, there are a
number of paintings by
Albrecht Dürer, including
his classical depictions of
Adam and Eve. His lively
Self-Portrait of 1498, painted
at the age of 26, is
undoubtedly the highlight
of the small but valuable
German collection in the
museum. Lucas Cranach is
also featured and works by
the late 18th-century painter
Anton Raffael Mengs include
some magnificent portraits
The Descent from the Cross (c.1430) by Rogier van der Weyden of Carlos III.




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Be neath it, however, is de Madrid, an open-air
an extensive complex, sculpture museum (Paseo
the Teatro Fernán Gómez de la Castellana 40).
Centro de Arte. Formerly
known as the Centro o Museo
Cultural de la Villa, this
centre is now named after Arqueológico
the Spanish cinema and Nacional
theatre actor, director and
writer Fernando Fernán Calle Serrano 13. Map 6 D5.
Gómez, who died in Tel 91 577 79 12.  Serrano.
@ 1, 9, 19, 51, 74. Open 9:30am–
Madrid in 2007. Exhibitions 8pm Tue–Sat, 9:30am–3pm Sun.
are held in its prestigious ∑ man.es
One of the many Roman mosaics at the Museo halls. The complex also
Arqueológico Nacional includes lecture rooms, Founded by Isabel II in 1867,
a theatre and a café. Madrid’s archaeological
u Plaza de Colón museum, which has reopened
after extensive and impressive
Map 6 D5.  Serrano, Colón. i Calle de Serrano
Teatro Fernán Gómez Centro restoration work, houses a
de Arte: Tel 91 436 25 40. Map 8 D1.  Serrano. collection that consists mainly
∑ teatrofernangomez.com of material uncovered during
Named after the 19th-century excavations all over Spain, as
This large square, one of politician Francisco Serrano y well as important pieces from
Madrid’s undisputed focal Dominguez, Madrid’s smartest Egypt, ancient Greece and the
points, is dedicated to 15th- shopping street runs north Etruscan civilization.
century explorer Christopher from the Plaza de la Highlights of the earliest finds
Columbus (Colón in Spanish). Independencia, in the district include an exhibition on the
It is overlooked by huge of Salamanca, to the Plaza del ancient civilization of El Argar
tower blocks, built in the 1970s Ecuador, in the district of El in Anda lucía (see p52), and a
to replace the 19th-century Viso. Calle de Serrano is lined display of jewellery uncovered
mansions which stood here. with attractive shops (p320) – at the Roman settlement of
On the south side of the many specializ ing in expensive Numantia, near Soria (see p381).
square is a palace housing luxury items – housed in old- Other exhibited pieces are
the National Library and fashioned mansion blocks. devoted to the period between
Archaeological Museum. Several of the country’s top Roman and Mudéjar Spain.
The Post-Modernist designers, including Iberian culture is also represen-
sky scraper of the Heron Adolfo Domíngu ez and ted, with two notable funerary
Cor poration towers over Purificación García, have sculptures – La Dama de Elche
the Plaza de Colón from boutiques towards the (see p52) and La Dama de Baza.
the far side of the Paseo north, near the ABC Serrano The Roman period is illustrated
de la Castellana. (see p321) and the Museo with some impressive mosaics,
The real feature of the Lázaro Galdiano (see p309). including one from the 3rd
square, however, is the pair Branches of the Italian century. The underside of
of monuments dedi cated shops Versace, Gucci and this 1,800-year-old work
to the discoverer of the Armani, as well as the shows a combat between two
Americas. The prettiest, French Chanel, can be gladiators, Simmachius and
and oldest, is a Neo-Gothic found on the Calle de Maternus; the upper register
spire erected in 1885, with José Ortega y Gasset. displays Simmachius’ victory.
Columbus at its top, point- Lower down the Calle de Outstanding pieces from the
ing west. Carved reliefs on Serrano, towards Serrano Visigothic period include several
the plinth give highlights of metro station, are two splendid 7th-century gold votive
his discoveries. Across the branches of Spain’s famous crowns from Toledo province.
square is the second, more depart ment store El Corte On show from the Islamic
modern monument – Inglés. On the Calle de era is well-preserved pottery
a cluster of four large Claudio Coello, which uncovered from Medina
concrete shapes runs parallel with Azahara in Andalucía (see
inscribed with Serrano, there are p481) and metal objects.
quotations about several lavish antique Romanesque exhibits at
Columbus’s journey shops, in keeping the museum include an ivory
to America (see p61). with the area’s crucifix carved in 1063 for
Constantly busy with upmarket atmos- Fernando I of Castilla-León,
traffic, the plaza may phere. Under Juan and the Madonna and Child
seem an unlikely venue Statue of Columbus, Bravo’s bridge is the from Sahagún, considered
for cultural events. Plaza de Colón Museo de Arte Público a masterpiece of Spanish art.
For hotels and restaurants in this area see pp568–9 and pp591–3


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Eyewitness Travel LAYERS PRINTED:
Catalogue template “UK” LAYER
(Source v2.1)
Date 5th December 2012
Size 125mm x 217mm

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p Parque del Retiro s Estación de
Map 8 E3. Tel 91 530 00 41.  Retiro, Atocha
Ibiza, Atocha. Open 6am–10pm Plaza del Emperador Carlos V. Map 8
(Apr–Oct: 6am–midnight). 7 D5. Tel 902 32 03 20.  Atocha
The Retiro Park, in Madrid’s RENFE. Open 5am–1am daily. 7
∑ renfe.com
smart Jerónimos district, takes
its name from Felipe IV’s royal Madrid’s first railway service,
palace complex, which once from Atocha to Aranjuez, was
stood here. Today, all that is left inaugurated in 1851. Forty
of the palace is the Casón del years later Atocha station was
Buen Retiro (see p296) and the replaced by a new building,
Salón de Reinos (see p291). which was extended in the 1980s.
Used privately by the royal The older part, built of glass and
family from 1632, the park wrought iron, now houses an
became the scene of elaborate indoor palm garden. Next to it
pageants, bullfights and mock is the terminus for high­speed
naval battles. In the 18th cen­ Statue of Bourbon King Carlos III in the Real AVE trains to Seville, Toledo,
tury it was partially opened to Jardín Botánico Córdoba, Zaragoza, Lleida,
the public, provided visitors Barcelona, Málaga, Valencia,
were formally dressed, and a Real Jardín Valladollid and France (see p628).
in 1869 it was fully opened. Botánico The Ministerio de Agricultura,
To day, the Retiro remains one opposite, is a splendid late
of the most popular places for Plaza de Murillo 2. Map 8 D4. 19th­century building.
relaxing in Madrid. Tel 91 420 30 17.  Atocha, Banco
A short stroll from the park’s de España. Open 10am–dusk daily.
Closed 1 Jan, 25 Dec. & 7
northern entrance down the ∑ rjb.csic.es
tree­lined avenue leads to the
pleasure lake, where rowing South of the Prado (see pp296–9),
boats can be hired. On one and a suitable place for resting
side of the lake is a half­moon after visiting the gallery, are
colonnade in front of which an the Royal Botanical Gardens.
equestrian statue of Alfonso XII Inspired by Carlos III, they were
rides high on a column. Oppo­ designed in 1781 by Gómez
site, portrait painters and Ortega, Francesco Sabatini and
fortune­tellers ply their trade. Juan de Villanueva, architect of
To the south of the lake are the Prado.
two palaces. The Neo­Classical Interest in the plants of South
Palacio de Velázquez and the America and the Philippines
Palacio de Cristal (Crystal Palace) took hold during the Spanish
were built by Velázquez Bosco Enlightenment (see p66), and
in 1883 and 1887 respectively the neatly laid out beds offer
and regularly hold contemp­ a huge variety of flora, ranging Entrance of Madrid’s Estación de Atocha,
orary art exhibitions. from trees to herbs. busy with travellers



















Monument of Alfonso XII (1901), facing the Retiro’s boating lake




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d Museo Nacional Centro de Arte Reina Sofía

The highlight of this museum, commonly Portrait II (1938)
referred to as the Museo Reina Sofía, of 20th- Joan Miró’s huge
century art is Picasso’s Guernica. There are, work shows
however, other major works by influential artists, elements of
including Miró and Dalí. The collection is housed Surrealism, but
was painted more
in Madrid’s former General Hospital, built in the than 10 years after
late 18th century. Major extensions, designed by his true Surrealist
Jean Nouvel, were inaugurated in 2005. The period ended.
Nouvel Building includes the Collection 3: From Nouvel
Revolt to Postmodernity, a library, a bookshop, a building
café and auditoriums that host various events
such as film screenings, lectures and concerts.

. Woman in Blue (1901)
Picasso disowned this
work after it won only
an honourable mention
in a national competition.
Decades later it was
located and acquired
by the Spanish state.









Landscape at
Cadaqués
Salvador Dalí was
born in Figueres
in Catalonia. He
became a frequent
visitor to the town
of Cadaqués, on
the Costa Brava
(see p220–21),
where he painted
this landscape in
the summer of 1923.






Key to Floorplan
Exhibition space
Non-exhibition space


Self-Portrait (Accident)
Alfonso Ponce de León’s
disturbing work, painted in
1936, prefigured his death in
a car crash later that same year.
For hotels and restaurants in this area see pp568–9 and pp591–3


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VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
Practical Information
Calle Santa Isabel 52. Map 7 C5.
Tel 91 774 10 00.
Open 10am–9pm Mon, Wed–Sat,
10am–7pm Sun. Closed 1 & 6 Jan,
1 & 15 May, 9 Nov, 24, 25 & 31 Dec,
some pub hols. & (free after 7pm
Mon, Wed–Sat & after 1:30pm
Sun). ^ 7 8 0 d - =
∑ museoreinasofia.es
Transport
 Atocha. @ 6, 14, 19, 27,
. The Gathering at Pombo Café (1920) 45, 55, 86.
José Gutiérrez Solana depicts a gathering
of intellectuals (tertulia) in a famous café
in Madrid, which no longer exists.
Gallery Guide
The permanent collection is in
the Sabatini Building. Collection 1
on the second floor displays
works dating from 1900 to 1945,
and includes rooms dedicated
to important movements such
as Cubism and Surrealism;
Collection 2 on the fourth floor
has works dating from 1945 to
1968, including representatives
of Pop Art, Minimalism and
more recent tendencies.
Collection 3: From Revolt to
Postmodernity (1962–1982) is
located in the Nouvel Building.









Glass lift

Entrance
Visitors admiring Guernica
. Picasso’s Guernica
The most famous single work of the 20th
century, this Civil War protest painting (see
pp70–71) was commis sioned by the Spanish
Republican government in 1937 for a Paris
exhi bition. The artist found his inspiration
in the mass air attack of the same year on
the Basque town of Gernika-Lumo (see
pp122–3), by German pilots flying for the
Nationalist air force. The painting hung in
a New York gallery until 1981, reflecting
the artist’s wish that it should not return to
Toki-Egin (Homenaje a San Juan de la Cruz) (1990) Spain until democracy was re-established.
In his abstract sculptures, Eduardo Chillida used a variety of It was moved here from the Prado in 1992.
materials, such as wood, iron and steel, to convey strength.




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M ADRID  305

FURTHER AFIELD

Several of Madrid’s best sights, including some de Salamanca. The districts around Old Madrid,
interesting but little-known museums, lie especially Malasaña and La Latina, offer a more
outside the city centre. The axis of modern typically authentic madrileño atmosphere. On
Madrid is the Paseo de la Castellana, a long, Sundays, some of the old streets are crowded
wide avenue lined by skyscraper offices and with bargain hunters at the sprawling second-
busy with traffic. A journey along it gives a hand market, El Rastro. If you need to escape
glimpse of Madrid as Spain’s commercial from the bustle of the city for a while, west
and administrative capital. La Castellana of Old Madrid, across the Río Manzanares, is
skirts the Barrio de Salamanca, an upmarket Madrid’s vast, green recreation ground, the
district of stylish boutiques, named after the Casa de Campo, with its pleas ant pine woods,
19th-century aristocrat who built it, the Marquis boating lake, amusement park and zoo.

Sights at a Glance
Historic Buildings Streets, Squares and Parks Key
6 Templo de Debod 1 El Rastro Madrid city centre
9 Palacio de Liria 2 La Latina Parks and open spaces
y Real Fábrica de Tapices 3 Plaza de la Paja
Churches and Convents 4 Casa de Campo Motorway
0 Malasaña
5 Ermita de San Antonio r Paseo de la Castellana Major road
de la Florida t Plaza de Toros de Las Ventas Minor road
Museums and Galleries u Parque de El Capricho
7 Museo de América
8 Museo Cerralbo
q Museo de Historia de Madrid
w Museo Sorolla
e Museo Lázaro Galdiano 0 kilometres 2
0 miles 1





A2
Sights Outside the City Centre Burgos Aeropuerto
CALLE DE BRAVO MURILLO M30
Segovia PASEO DE LA CASTELLANA
El Escorial CALLE DE JOAQUIN COSTA AV D A DE AMERICA


SERRANO Aeropuerto
M500
DE CALLE DEL PRINCIPE DE VERGARA
CALLE ALCALA
M30
AVDA DE VALLADOL ID
CALLE DE LA PRINCESA
Manzanares
Principe G RAN VIA Recoletos DE
Pio CALLE PAZ
Sol
CAL LE MAYOR
A5 CALLE DEL DOCTOR ESQUERDO AVENIDA DE LA
CALLE DE TO L EDO CALLE DE ATOCHA CALLE DE ALFONSO XII
Badajoz
Atocha A3
Renfe
DE LA CABEZA
VIA CARPETANA M30 PASEO SANTA MARIA PASEO DE LAS DELICIAS CALLE DE MENDEZ ALVARO Estación M30 Valencia
PASEO IMPERIAL
Sur
Toledo
AVDA DE LA CIUDAD DE BARCELONA
Detail of the Plaza de Toros, with its ornate tilework decoration For keys to symbols see back flap
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1 El Rastro partly occupied by an unofficial
and alternative cultural centre.
Calle Ribera de Curtidores. Map 4 E4.
 La Latina, Tirso de Molina.
Open 10am–3pm Sun & public hols.
2 La Latina
Madrid’s celebrated flea market Map 4 D4.  La Latina.
(see p321), established in the
Middle Ages, has its hub in The district of La Latina, together
the Plaza de Cascorro and with the adjacent Lavapiés, is
sprawls downhill towards the considered to be the heart of
Río Manzanares. The main street castizo Madrid. This term is used
is the Calle Ribera de Curtidores, to describe the culture of the tra-
or “Tanners’ Riverbank”, once the di tional working classes of Madrid
centre of the slaughterhouse – that of the true madrileño.
and tanning industry. La Latina runs along the city’s
Although some people claim southern hillside from the Plaza Interior of San Francisco el Grande
that the Rastro has changed Puerta de Moros, southwards
a great deal since its heyday through the streets where the Up past the fountain, the Plaza
during the 19th century, there Rastro is held. To the east it de la Paja ends with the harsh
are still plenty of madrileños, as merges with Lavapiés. La Latina’s stone walls of the Capilla del
well as tourists, who shop here. steep streets are lined with tall, Obispo, or Bishop’s Chapel,
They come in search of a bargain narrow houses, renovated to belonging originally to the
from the stalls which sell a huge form an attractive neighbour- adjoining Palacio Vargas. The
range of wares – any thing from hood. There are old-fashioned superb Plateresque altarpiece
new furniture to second-hand and trendy bars around the is by Francisco Giralte. Up to
clothes. The wide range of Plaza del Humil ladero as well the left, the Baroque, cherub-
goods and the lively crowds in as in the Lavapiés district. covered dome of the Iglesia
the Rastro make it an ideal way de San Andrés stands out.
to spend a Sunday morning. Nearby is a small cluster of
It is also worth making a stop interlinked squares, ending in
at the Galerías Piquer (Calle the Plaza Puerta de Moros, a
Ribera de Curtidores 29) and reminder of the Muslim com-
the Plaza General Vara del Rey. munity which once occupied
The Calle de Embajadores is the area. From here, a right turn
the market’s other main street. leads to the domed bulk of
It runs down past the Baroque San Francisco el Grande, an
façade of the Iglesia de San impressive landmark. Inside the
Cayetano, designed by José church is a painting by Goya
Churriguera and Pedro de and his brother-in-law Francisco
Ribera. Its interior has been Bayeu. The choir stalls were
restored since fire destroyed moved here from the monastery
it during the Civil War. of El Paular (see pp332–3).
Further along the street is the
former Real Fábrica de Tabacos Bottles of wine for sale in an old-style bar
(the Royal Tobacco Factory), begun in Lavapiés 4 Casa de Campo
as a state enterprise in 1809. It is Paseo Puerta del Angel 1. Tel 91 479 60
3 Plaza de la Paja 02.  Batán, Lago, Príncipe Pío, Casa
de Campo. Open 9am–9pm daily.
Map 4 D3.  La Latina. Closed to cars. ∑ esmadrid.com
Once the focus of medieval This former royal hunting
Madrid, the area around the ground, stretching over 1,740 ha
Plaza de la Paja – literally (4,300 acres), lies in southwest-
Straw Square – is extremely ern Madrid. Its wide range of
atmospheric and many amenities make it a popular
interesting buildings are daytime recreation area. Attrac-
located on the square. tions include a boating lake, a
Climbing upwards from the zoo, and an amusement park –
Calle de Segovia, a glimpse the Parque de Atracciones.
left along the Calle Príncipe Sports enthusiasts can make
Anglona yields a view of the use of the swimming pool and
Mudéjar-style brick tower jogging track. In the summer
Some of the curios on display at the Rastro of the Iglesia de San Pedro, the park is also used as a venue
flea market dating from the 14th century. for rock concerts.
For hotels and restaurants in this area see pp568–9 and pp591–3


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FUR THER AFIELD  307


the project. The temple is carved
with shallow reliefs, and stands
in a line with two of its original
three gates on high ground
above the Río Manzan ares, in
the gardens of the Parque del
Oeste. From the park there are
views over the Casa de Campo
to the Guadarrama mountains.
The park is the site of the
former Montaña barracks, which
were stormed by the populace
at the start of the Civil War in
1936. Further west, below the
brow of the hill, is an attractive
rose garden.
7 Museo de
América
Avenida de los Reyes Católicos 6.
Tel 91 549 26 41.  Moncloa. Open
9:30am–3pm Tue–Sat (to 7pm Thu),
10am–3pm Sun. Closed some public
hols. & (free Sun). 7 8 by appt.
∑ museodeamerica.mcu.es
This museum houses artifacts
related to Spain’s colonization
of parts of the Americas. Many
of the exhibits, which range
Egyptian temple of Debod, with two of its original gateways from prehistoric times to the
present, were brought back
5 Ermita de San women. The fresco is consid- to Europe by early explorers
Antonio de la ered by many art critics to be of the New World (see pp62–3).
Florida among Goya’s finest works. The collection is arranged on
the first and second floors, and
Goya’s tomb is housed in the
Glorieta San Antonio de la Florida 5. chapel. His re mains were brought individual rooms are given a
Tel 91 547 79 37.  Príncipe Pío. here from Bordeaux, where he cultural theme such as society,
Open 9:30am–8pm Tue–Sun. died in exile in 1828 (see p243). communication and religion.
Closed public hols. ^ 7 There is documentation of the
∑ esmadrid.com Atlantic voyages by the first
6 Templo de Debod explorers, and examples of the
Goya enthusiasts should not Paseo de Pintor Rosales. Map 1 B5. objects which they found. The
miss a visit to the Neo-Classical Tel 91 366 74 15.  Ventura highlight of the museum is per-
Ermita de San Antonio de la Rodríguez, Plaza de España. haps a war helmet belonging
Florida, built during the reign of Open 9:30am–8pm Sat & Sun; to the Tlingit people of North
Carlos IV. The present church Apr–Sep: 10am–2pm, 6–8pm America. It depicts a wolf, the
stands on the site of two Tue–Fri; Oct–Mar: 10am–2pm, lineage motif and protector
previous ones and is dedicated 4–6pm Tue–Fri. Closed public spirit, and was worn as a
to St Anthony. It is named after hols & afternoons in Aug. symbol of power and
the pasture land of la Florida, on ∑ esmadrid.com strength during battle.
which the first church was built. Also worth seeing are the
Goya took four months, in The Egyptian sol id gold funereal
1798, to paint the cupola. It temple of ornaments from
depicts the resurrection of a Debod, built in Colombia, the
murdered man who rises in the 2nd century Treasure of the
order to prove the innocence BC, was rescued Quimbayas
of the falsely accused father from the area (AD 500–1000),
of St Anthony. The characters flooded by the and the collection
in it are everyday people of the Aswan Dam and of contemporary
late 18th century: lurking, low- given to Spain as folk art from some
life types and lively majas (see a tribute to Spanish Flask from the Treasure of Spain’s former
p297) – shrewd but elegant engineers involved in of the Quimbayas American colonies.




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8 Museo Cerralbo 9 Palacio de Liria
Calle Ventura Rodríguez 17. Map 1 C5. Calle la Princesa 20. Tel 91 547 53 02.
Tel 91 547 36 46.  Plaza de España,  Ventura Rodríguez. Open 10am–
Ventura Rodríguez. Open 9:30am–3pm noon Fri. 8 obligatory. ^
Tue–Sat (also 5–8pm Thu), 10am–3pm
Sun. Closed some public hols. & The lavish but much-restored
(free Sun, after 5pm Thu & 2pm Sat). Palacio de Liria was completed
^ 8 ∑ enmuseocerralbo.mcu.es by Ventura Rodríguez in 1780.
Once the residence of the Alba
This 19th-century mansion family, and still owned by the
near the Plaza de España is a Duke, it can be visited by a
monument to Enrique de maximum of 15 people at one
Aguilera y Gamboa, the 17th time and by appointment only.
Marquis of Cerralbo. A com - The palace houses the Albas’
pulsive collector of art and outstanding collection of art,
artifacts, he bequeathed his and Flemish tapestries. There
lifetime’s collection to the are paintings by Titian, Rubens
nation in 1922, stipulating and Rembrandt. Spanish art is Rooftops in the Malasaña district
that the exhibits be arranged particularly well represented,
exactly as he left them. They with major works by Goya, 0 Malasaña
range from Iberian pottery to such as his 1795 portrait of Map 2 F5.  Tribunal, Bilbao.
18th-century marble busts. the Duchess of Alba, as well as
One of the star exhibits is examples of work by El Greco, A feeling of the authentic old
El Greco’s magnificent The Zurbarán and Velázquez. Madrid pervades this district of
Ecstasy of Saint Francis of Assisi. Behind the palace is the narrow, sloping streets and tall
There are also paintings by Cuartel del Conde-Duque, the houses. For some years it was
Ribera, Zurbarán, Alonso Cano former barracks of the Count- the centre of the movida, the
and Goya. Duke Olivares, Felipe IV’s frenzied nightlife which began
The focal point of the main minister. They were built in after the death of Franco.
floor is the ballroom, lavishly 1720 by Pedro de Ribera, who A walk along the Calle San
decorated with mirrors. A large adorned them with a Baroque Andrés leads to the fashionable
collection of weaponry is on façade. The barracks now house area, Plaza del Dos de Mayo.
display on this floor. a cultural centre. In the centre is a monument
to artillery officers Daoíz and
Velarde, who de fended the
barracks which stood here at
the time of the uprising against
the French in 1808 (see p67).
On Calle de la Puebla is the
Iglesia de San Antonio de los
Alemanes. The church was
founded by Felipe III in the
17th century as a hospital for
Portuguese immigrants, and
was later given over for use by
German émigrés. Inside, the
walls are decorated with 18th-
century frescoes by Giordano.
Nearby is the neighbourhood
of Conde Duque, a lively area
with a great cultural scene.
q Museo de
Historia de Madrid
Calle de Fuencarral 78. Map 5 A4.
Tel 91 701 18 63.  Tribunal.
Open 10am–8pm Tue–Sun. 7
∑ madrid.es/museodehistoria
The History Museum is worth
visiting just for its Baroque
door way (see p29) by Pedro
Main staircase of the exuberant Museo Cerralbo de Ribera, arguably the finest
For hotels and restaurants in this area see pp568–9 and pp591–3


308-309_EW_Spain.indd 308 26/09/17 11:54 am

FUR THER AFIELD  309


in Madrid. Housed in the
former hospice of St Ferdinand,
the museum was inaugurated
in 1929.
It holds a series of bird’s-eye
views and maps of Madrid.
Among them is Pedro Teixeira’s
map of 1656, thought to be
the oldest of the city. There is
also a model of Madrid, made
in 1830 by León Gil de Palacio.
Modern exhibits include a
reconstruction of the collage-
filled study of Ramón Gómez
de la Serna, a key figure of the
literary gatherings in the Café Sorolla’s former studio in the Museo Sorolla
de Pombo (see p303).
ceramics. The house, built in 1910, The collection ranges from
has an Andalucían-style garden the 6th to the 20th century and
designed by Sorolla himself. contains items of exceptional
quality, ranging from less familiar
e Museo Lázaro Goya portraits to a mass of
fob watches, including a cross-
Galdiano shaped pocket watch worn
by Charles V. Among the most
Calle Serrano 122. Map 6 E1.
Tel 91 561 60 84.  Rubén Darío, beautiful objects are a series
Gregorio Marañón. Open of Limoges enamels,
10am–4:30pm Tue–Sat, miniature sculptures, and
10am–3pm Sun. Closed The Saviour, a portrait
public hols. & (free attributed to a student
for last hour). 8 by of Leonardo da
appt. ∑ flg.es Vinci. The museum
features paintings
This art mu seum by English artists
Baroque façade of the Museo de Historia, is housed in the Constable, Turner,
by Pedro de Ribera former mansion- Gainsborough
home of the editor and Reynolds, as
and financier José well as 17th-century
w Museo Sorolla Lázaro Galdiano, and paintings by the likes
consists of his private of Spanish painters
Paseo del General Martínez Campos
37. Map 5 C1. Tel 91 310 15 84. collection of fine and Madrazo, Zurbarán,
 Rubén Darío, Iglesia, Gregorio applied art, bequeathed Charles V’s Ribera, Murillo and
Marañón. Open 9:30am–8pm Tue– to the nation in 1947. fob watch El Greco.
Sat, 10am–3pm Sun. Closed some
public hols. & (free Sat after 2pm, La Movida
Sun). ∑ museosorolla.mcu.es
With Franco’s death in 1975
The former studio-mansion of came a new period of per sonal
Valencian Impressionist painter and artistic lib erty that lasted
Joaquín Sorolla has been left until the mid-1980s. For some,
virtually as it was when he died this translated into the free-
in 1923. dom to stay out late, drinking
Although Sorolla is perhaps and sometimes sampling
best known for his brilliantly lit drugs. The phe nomenon
Mediterranean beach scenes, the was known as la movida, “the
changing styles of his paintings action”, and it was at its most
in tense in Madrid. Analysts
are well represented in the at the time saw it as having
museum, with examples of his serious intellec tual content,
gentle portraiture and a series and la movida has had many
of works representing people lasting cul tural effects on art,
from different parts of Spain. music and literature, like the
Also on display are objects Poster for Almodóvar’s Women on the Verge emergence of satirical film
amassed during Sorolla’s lifetime, of a Nervous Breakdown director Pedro Almodóvar.
including Span ish tiles and




308-309_EW_Spain.indd 309 10/11/2017 09:47

310  M ADRID


style, it replaced the city’s Visitors can see the making of
orig inal bull ring which stood the carpets and tapestries by
near the Puerta de Alcalá. With hand, a process which has
its horse shoe arches around changed little. Goya and his
the outer galleries and the brother­in­law Francisco Bayeu
elabo rate tilework deco ration, created drawings, or cartoons,
it makes a lovely venue for the which were the models for
corridas held during the bull­ tapestries made for the royal
fighting season, from May to family. A number of the cartoons
October. The statues outside are are displayed here; others can be
monuments to two renowned seen in the Museo del Prado (see
Spanish bull fighters: Antonio pp296–9). Some of the tap estries
Torre de Picasso towering over the Paseo Bienvenida and José Cubero. can be seen at El Pardo (see p336)
de la Castellana Adjoining the bullring is the and at El Escorial (see pp334–5).
Museo Taurino. Memorabilia Nowa days one of the factory’s
r Paseo de la includes por traits and main tasks is making and
Castellana sculptures of famous matadors, repairing the carpets decorating
as well as the heads of several Hotel Ritz by Belmond (see p290).
Map 6 D3.  Santiago Bernabéu, bulls killed during fights at Las
Cuzco, Plaza de Castilla, Gregorio Ventas. Visitors can view close
Marañón, Colón. up the tools of the bullfighter’s u Parque de
The busy traffic artery which cuts trade: capes and banderillas – El Capricho
through eastern Madrid has sharp darts used to wound the Paseo de la Alameda de Osuna s/n.
several parts. Its southernmost bull (see pp40–41). For some Tel 915 88 01 14.  El Capricho.
portion – the Paseo del Prado (see people, the gory highlight of Open Apr–Sep: 9am–9pm
pp288–9) – starts just north of the the exhi bition is the blood­ Sat (to 6:30pm Oct–Mar).
Estación de Atocha (see p301). drenched traje de luces worn
The oldest section, it dates from by the legendary Manolete This lesser­known, remote park
the reign of Carlos III, who built during his fateful bull fight at is one of the most unique and
it as part of his embel lishment Linares in Andalucía in 1947. charming examples of a land­
of east ern Madrid. At the Plaza scape garden in Spain. Built in the
de Cibeles, the avenue becomes y Real Fábrica Romantic style on the whim of a
the Paseo de Recoletos, which duchess in the late 18th century,
boasts stylish cafés, includ ing de Tapices it displays both Italian and
the Café Gijón (see p295). Calle Fuenterrabía 2. Map 8 F5. French influences. The plantlife is
The Plaza de Colón marks the Tel 914 34 05 50.  Menéndez abundant, particularly in spring,
start of the Paseo de la Castellana. Pelayo. Open 10am–2pm Mon–Fri, when the garden comes to life
This northernmost section has last entry 30 minutes before closing. with the groves of lilacs and
several examples of modern Closed public hols & Aug. & 8 cascading roses. Other interesting
architecture, includ ing the huge only. ∑ realfabricadetapices.com places include an artificial canal
grey Nuevos Ministerios building. that leads to a lake with ducks
East of the square is the Estadio Founded by Felipe V in 1721, the and swans, the reed­covered
Bernabéu, home of Real Madrid Royal Tapestry Factory is the sole boathouse known as the Casa
Football Club (see p181). At the survivor of several factories which de Cañas, the Casino del Baile
north end, in Plaza de Castilla, were opened by the Bourbons (Dance Casino), a small temple,
you can find the two Puerta de (see pp66–7) during the 18th a modest palace with a beautiful
Europa buildings, built at an angle century. In 1889 the factory was ballroom, an unusual beehouse
as if leaning toward each other. relocated to this building just and underground bun kers
south of the Parque del Retiro. dating back to the Civil War.
t Plaza de Toros
de Las Ventas
Calle Alcalá 237. Tel 913 54 22 00.
 Ventas. Open for bullfights &
con certs. 9 8 by appt. (910 24
28 44). Museo Taurino: Tel 917 25
18 57. Open 10am–5:30pm daily.
∑ lasventastour.com
Whatever your opinion of
bullfighting, Las Ventas is
undoubtedly one of the most
beautiful bullrings in Spain.
Built in 1929 in Neo­Mudéjar Plaza de Toros de Las Ventas, Madrid’s beautiful bullring
For hotels and restaurants in this area see pp568–9 and pp591–3


310-311_EW_Spain.indd 310 26/09/17 11:54 am

M ADRID  311

MADRID STREET FINDER


The map references given with the for bars and restaurants (pp591–3).
sights, shops and entertainment venues The schematic map below shows the
described in the Madrid section of the area of Madrid covered by the Street
guide refer to the street maps on the Finder. The symbols used for sights and
following pages. Map references are also other features are listed in the key at the
given for Madrid hotels (see pp568–9), and foot of the page.







CASTELLANA

BERNARDO CALLE DE SANTA ENGRACIA PASEO DE LA

SAN
CALLE DE LA PRINCESA
DE CALLE DE HORTALEZA CALLE DE VELAZQUEZ
CALLE
S. VICENTE GR AN V I A
CUESTA DE ALCALA
CALLE DE
GRAN VIA
Old Madrid
PUERTA Bourbon
DEL SOL
C ALLE MAYOR Madrid
PLAZA
CALLE DE SEGOVIA MAYOR
CA LLE DE T O LEDO CALLE DE ATOCHA PASEO DEL PRADO







0 kilometres 1
0 miles 0.5
Key to Street Finder
Major sight Convent or monastery
Place of interest Pedestrianized street
Other building Railway line
Main railway station
Metro station
Tourist information Scale of Map Pages
Hospital with casualty unit
Police station 0 metres 250
Church 0 yards 250






310-311_EW_Spain.indd 311 26/09/17 11:54 am

GENERAL ALVAREZ
DE PERAL E S L AV A G A Z T A M B I D E GA RAY VALLEHERMOSO M A G A L L A N E S C/ DE GARCIA GLORIETA DE
DE CASTRO
DE PAREDES
CALLE C A L L E D M E L L A D O O MURILLO
VICTORIA
ARCO DE LA
CALLE DE RUPERTO CHAPI PLAZA ISAAC D O N O S O C O RT E S N A L V A R E Z
DE LA
MONCLOA H I L A R I O N E A N D R E S U E DE G A LIL E O C A L L E D E D O N O S O C O R T E S
MORET C C A L L E D E D E B DE ESCOSURA D E CERCEDILLA BRAVO C A L L E D E V I R I A T O
CALLE DE
A
DE Moncloa L CALLE D E F E R N A N D E Z D E L O S R I O S DE C A L L E C A L L E D E
D E
L
PASEO E C A L L E L E CALLE DE ABDON B LA SCO CALLE DE D E F E R N A N D E Z D E L O S R I O S C A L L E D E C

Cuartel
General del C A L L E C A L L E TRV ANDRES MELLADO TERRADAS PONTEVEDRA C AL L E CALLE CALLE DE F E I J O O A S T R O
Aire ARCIPRESTE ANGEL CALLE DE CASARRUBUELOS C A L L E
C A L L E D E F E R N A N D O E L C A T O L I C O POZAS
E S L A V A N C A L L E D E F E R N A N D O D E L
D
E
M A DE E L C AT O L I C O CALLE
C A L L E
H I L A R I O N G A Z TA M B I D E G CALLE DE FERNANDO GLORIETA
L DE M E L L A D O U Z CALLE Quevedo CALLE DE ELOY GONZALO
D E
DE
CALLE FRANCISCO LOZANO D E C A L L E D E M E L E N D E Z C A L LE GARRIDO A R A P I L E S DE QUEVEDO
A
HITA
C A L L E R O M E R O R O B L E D O
CALLE DE SAN M A R T I N P R C A L L E D E A N D R E S E D CALLE DE V A L D E S G A L I L E O C A L L E D E MAGALLANES BERNARDO CALLE C A R D E N A L
JUAN BOSCO
C A L L E D E B E N I T O G U T I E R R E Z N E A Argüelles D E R O D R I G U E Z S A N A C E L L PALOMINO CALLE DE CAL VO ASENSIO D E C A L L E D E V A L L E H E R M O S O R O D R I G U E Z
I
ANTONIO
D E
C A L L E
C
D E
CALLE DE
C A L L E
P E D R O
C A L L E
C A L L E
S

D
L O S
CALLE DE BELVIS E
GONZALO DE CORDOBA C I S N E R O S
CALLE DEL MARQUES DE URQUIJO CALLE DE SERRANO JOVER O CALLE DE BALTASAR GRACIAN DE ALBERTO AGUILERA GLORIETA CALLE CALLE DE SANDOVAL CALLE FUENCAR HARTZENBUSH
PLAZA DEL
M O N T E L E O N
CONDE
SUCHIL
AGUILERA
C A C A L L E D E A L T A M I R A N O D E CALLE DE ALBERT CALLE DE FRANCISCO RICCI C A L L E CALLE DE EMILIO CARRERE C A L L E D E DEL VALLE DE DE CALLE DE JERONIMA QUINTANA CALLE
H E R O S
L
San Bernardo
L
T U T O R
E
C A L L E J U A N
C A L L E D E L B U E N S U C E S O C L CALLE DEL SEMINARIO DE NOBLES DE ALCALA CALLE DE SANTA CRUZ DE MARCEN ADO A C U E R D O RUIZ JIMENEZ C A L L E CALLE M A N U
PLAZA
C A L L E
ARGUELLES
CALLE
DE
DE RAL

D E
DE
A L V A R E Z
D
A
C A L L E D E Q U I N TA N A
E
E
MONTSERRAT N A R D O
M A R T I N
D
DE
BILBAO
L

C A L L E D E S A N A N D R E S
PA S E O
DIMAS
F M E N D I Z A B A L D E E MARTIRES D U Q U E C A L L E D E S A N DE H E R M E N E G I LD O C/ DE LA GALERIA DE M A L A S A Ñ A Bilbao
C A L L E D E L R EY F R A N C I S C O D E L CALLE D E L GUARDIAS DE CALLE DE C A L L E D E CALLE NORTE L A D E PA L M A C A
DE ROBLES
E
R D DE CALLE B E R
R L O S Palacio CA L L E
A E de Liria D E L CALLE AN DE QUIÑONES C A L L E
Z C A L L E CALLE Conde Duque C O N D E C A L L E PLAZA DE LAS D E S S A N C A L L E D E L D I V I N O P A S T O R
D E L
Cuartel del
COMENDADORAS
L I M O N
D E
D A O I Z
PLAZA DEL
Ventura
DOS
Rodriguez
C A L L E
DE MAYO
A
PLAZA DE
H E R O S
C A L L E D E L U I S A F E R N A N D A
CORPS
CALLE DE
DEL
DEL
P I NT OR
LUCIA
C A L L E
R
DUQUE
CALLE
PARQUE R O S A CALLE DE EVARISTO SAN MIGUEL T U T O R P I C CALLE DE LAS NEGRAS LIRIA TRAVESIA C A L L E DEL D E L CONDE BERNARDO LOPEZ GARCIA CRISTO D E CALLE C A L L E C A L L
D E
SANTA
DE
C A L L E
V I C E N T E
DE
NOVICIADO
DEL LE S R O D R I G U E Z N E S A CALLE DE MANUEL C A L L E D E CALLE DE JUAN DE DIOS DUQUE A M A N I E L Noviciado LAS POZAS DE ESPIRITU SANTO CALLE D E T E S O R O PLAZA DE F E R R E R D E S A N
M A R T I N
MINAS
TRV DE
D E L
CALLE DE SANTA
V E N T U R A
MARIA MICAELA
JUAN PUJOL CALLE DE ESPIRITU SANTO
CRISTINO
MARTOS
D E
M A N Z A N A E R N A R D O
OESTE C A L L E J U A N A LV A R E Z M E N D I Z A B A L JIMENEZ MILAS PLAZA DE S A N CALLE DE PONCIANO CALLE DE CALLE DE LAS POZAS C A L L E LAS CA LLE DEL MARQ U ES D E SANTA ANA D E L V A L L E C/ DE DO
C A L L E
PLAZA EMILIO

J E S U S
C/ DE LOS DOS
LOS REYES
AMIGOS
PLASENCIA
D E
DE SAN
DE TORENO
Templo L O S CALLE DE SAN LEONARDO B E R N A R D I N O PLAZA DEL CONDE CALLE DE CALLE DE CASTO D E C A L L E M A D E R A C O R R E D E R A PLAZA
de Debod Torre de Madrid MAESTRO GUERRERO ILDEFONSO
D E D E B C A L L E C A L L E D E L
L A
Museo H E R O S Pl España C A L L E C/ DE LA CRUZ VERDE L A CALLE DEL MOLINO DE VIENTO
Cerralbo Edificio C / DE E S C O R I A L
España C/ DE SAN IGNACIO LOYOLA ANTONIO GRILO C/ DE ANDRES BORREGO P I Z A R R O
PLAZA
JARDINES C A L L E PLAZA DE MOSTENSES S A N D E L
GENERAL MITRE CALLE DE TRAVESIA D E C A L L E Iglesia de PLAZA DE CARLOS
FERRAZ ESPAÑA CALLE DEL TRAVESIA BEATAS D E D E BARCO
CAMBRONERO
P A S E O
R O S A L E D A
Pl España G R A N
PARADA D E C A L L E San Plácido ROQUE CALLE CORREDERA BAJA DE SAN PABLO DEL
P E Z
Monumento C/ DE L C/ DE GARCIA MOLINAS C A L L E Iglesia de San
RICARDO LEON
C A L L E D E F E R R A Z
D E L
a Cervantes CALLE DEL DR CARRACIDO V I A CALLE DE LA ESTRELLA L A DE SAN C A Antonio de CALLE
los Alemanes
R E Y
DE LEGANES
CALLE DE C A L L E CALLE DELMARQUES L U N A CALLE LA NAO L L E D E L A P U E B L A
CALLE
CADARSO
LA FLOR BAJA
C A L L E D E I R U N
CALLE DEL RIO EG ANITOS
312-313_EW_Spain.indd 312 05/10/15 2:47 pm
Eyewitness Travel LAYERS PRINTED:
Streetfinder holder template “UK” LAYER
(Source v1)
Date 13th August 2012
Size 125mm x 217mm

GENERAL ALVAREZ
DE PERAL E S L AV A G A Z T A M B I D E GA RAY VALLEHERMOSO M A G A L L A N E S C/ DE GARCIA GLORIETA DE
DE CASTRO
DE PAREDES
CALLE C A L L E D M E L L A D O O MURILLO
VICTORIA
ARCO DE LA
CALLE DE RUPERTO CHAPI PLAZA ISAAC D O N O S O C O RT E S N A L V A R E Z
DE LA
MONCLOA H I L A R I O N E A N D R E S E U DE G A LIL E O C A L L E D E D O N O S O C O R T E S
MORET C C A L L E D E D E B DE ESCOSURA D E CERCEDILLA BRAVO C A L L E D E V I R I A T O
CALLE DE
A
DE Moncloa L CALLE D E F E R N A N D E Z D E L O S R I O S DE C A L L E C A L L E D E
D E
PASEO E C A L L E L E CALLE DE ABDON B LA SCO CALLE DE D E F E R N A N D E Z D E L O S R I O S C A L L E D E C
L

Cuartel
General del C A L L E C A L L E TRV ANDRES MELLADO TERRADAS PONTEVEDRA C AL L E CALLE CALLE DE F E I J O O A S T R O
Aire ARCIPRESTE ANGEL CALLE DE CASARRUBUELOS C A L L E
C A L L E D E F E R N A N D O E L C A T O L I C O POZAS
E S L A V A N C A L L E D E F E R N A N D O D E L
D
E
A M DE E L C AT O L I C O CALLE
C A L L E
H I L A R I O N G A Z TA M B I D E G CALLE DE FERNANDO GLORIETA
L DE M E L L A D O Z U CALLE Quevedo CALLE DE ELOY GONZALO
D E
DE
CALLE FRANCISCO LOZANO D E C A L L E D E M E L E N D E Z C A L LE GARRIDO A R A P I L E S DE QUEVEDO
A
HITA
C A L L E R O M E R O R O B L E D O
CALLE DE SAN M A R T I N P I C A L L E D E A N D R E S E D CALLE DE V A L D E S G A L I L E O C A L L E D E MAGALLANES BERNARDO CALLE C A R D E N A L
JUAN BOSCO
C A L L E D E B E N I T O G U T I E R R E Z N E S C A L L E Argüelles D E R O D R I G U E Z S A N C L A E L PALOMINO CALLE DE CAL VO ASENSIO D E C A L L E D E V A L L E H E R M O S O R O D R I G U E Z
R
ANTONIO
D E
C
D E
CALLE DE
C A L L E
P E D R O
C A L L E
C A L L E
A

D
L O S
CALLE DE BELVIS E
GONZALO DE CORDOBA C I S N E R O S
CALLE DEL MARQUES DE URQUIJO CALLE DE SERRANO JOVER O CALLE DE BALTASAR GRACIAN DE ALBERTO AGUILERA GLORIETA CALLE CALLE DE SANDOVAL CALLE FUENCAR HARTZENBUSH
PLAZA DEL
M O N T E L E O N
CONDE
SUCHIL
H E R O S
AGUILERA
C A C A L L E D E A L T A M I R A N O D E CALLE DE ALBERT CALLE DE FRANCISCO RICCI C A L L E CALLE DE EMILIO CARRERE C A L L E D E DEL VALLE DE DE CALLE DE JERONIMA QUINTANA CALLE
L
San Bernardo
L
E
T U T O R
C A L L E J U A N
C A L L E D E L B U E N S U C E S O C L CALLE DEL SEMINARIO DE NOBLES DE ALCALA CALLE DE SANTA CRUZ DE MARCEN ADO A C U E R D O RUIZ JIMENEZ C A L L E CALLE M A N U E L A R UI
C A L L E
PLAZA
ARGUELLES
CALLE
DE
DE RAL

D E
DE
A L V A R E Z
D
A
C A L L E D E Q U I N TA N A
E
E
MONTSERRAT N A R D O
M A R T I N
D
DE
L
BILBAO

C A L L E D E S A N A N D R E S
PA S E O
DIMAS
F M E N D I Z A B A L D E E MARTIRES D U Q U E C A L L E D E S A N DE H E R M E N E G I LD O C/ DE LA GALERIA DE M A L A S A Ñ A Bilbao
C A L L E D E L R EY F R A N C I S C O D E L A CALLE D E L GUARDIAS DE CALLE DE C A L L E D E CALLE NORTE L A D E PA L M A C A L L E MAL A S A ÑA D E
DE ROBLES
E
R D DE CALLE B E R
R L O S Palacio CA L L E
A E de Liria D E L CALLE AN DE QUIÑONES C A L L E
D E L
Z C A L L E CALLE Conde Duque C O N D E C A L L E PLAZA DE LAS D E S S A N C A L L E D E L D I V I N O P A S T O R
Cuartel del
COMENDADORAS
L I M O N
D E
D A O I Z
Ventura
PLAZA DEL
DOS
C A L L E
Rodriguez
DE MAYO
PLAZA DE
H E R O S
C A L L E D E L U I S A F E R N A N D A
CORPS
CALLE DE
DEL
DEL
P I NT OR
LUCIA
C A L L E
DUQUE
CALLE
PARQUE R O S A CALLE DE EVARISTO SAN MIGUEL T U T O R P R I C CALLE DE LAS NEGRAS LIRIA TRAVESIA C A L L E DEL D E L CONDE BERNARDO LOPEZ GARCIA CRISTO D E CALLE C A L L E C A L L E C A L L E C
D E
SANTA
DE
C A L L E
V I C E N T E
DE
NOVICIADO
S
DEL LE S R O D R I G U E Z N E A CALLE DE MANUEL C A L L E D E CALLE DE JUAN DE DIOS DUQUE A M A N I E L Noviciado LAS POZAS DE ESPIRITU SANTO CALLE D E T E S O R O PLAZA DE F E R R E R D E S A N
M A R T I N
MINAS
TRV DE

D E L
CALLE DE SANTA
V E N T U R A
CRISTINO
MARIA MICAELA
JUAN PUJOL CALLE DE ESPIRITU SANTO
MARTOS
D E
M A N Z A N A E R N A R D O
OESTE C A L L E J U A N A LV A R E Z M E N D I Z A B A L JIMENEZ MILAS PLAZA DE S A N CALLE DE PONCIANO CALLE DE CALLE DE LAS POZAS C A L L E LAS CA LLE DEL MARQ U ES D E SANTA ANA D E L V A L L E C/ DE DON FELIPE A LTA
C A L L E
PLAZA EMILIO

J E S U S
C/ DE LOS DOS
AMIGOS
PLASENCIA
D E
DE TORENO
Templo L O S CALLE DE SAN LEONARDO B E R N A R D I N O PLAZA DEL CONDE LOS REYES CALLE DE CALLE DE CASTO D E C A L L E M A D E R A C O R R E D E R A PLAZA
DE SAN
de Debod Torre de Madrid MAESTRO GUERRERO ILDEFONSO
D E D E B C A L L E C A L L E D E L
L A
Museo H E R O S Pl España C A L L E C/ DE LA CRUZ VERDE L A CALLE DEL MOLINO DE VIENTO
Cerralbo Edificio C / DE E S C O R I A L
España C/ DE SAN IGNACIO LOYOLA ANTONIO GRILO C/ DE ANDRES BORREGO P I Z A R R O
PLAZA
JARDINES C A L L E PLAZA DE MOSTENSES S A N D E L
GENERAL MITRE CALLE DE TRAVESIA D E C A L L E Iglesia de PLAZA DE CARLOS
FERRAZ ESPAÑA CALLE DEL TRAVESIA BEATAS D E D E BARCO
CAMBRONERO
P A S E O
R O S A L E D A
PARADA D E C A L L E San Plácido ROQUE CALLE CORREDERA BAJA DE SAN PABLO DEL
Pl España G R A N
P E Z
DR CARRACIDO
Monumento C/ DE L C/ DE GARCIA MOLINAS C A L L E Iglesia de San
RICARDO LEON
C A L L E D E F E R R A Z
D E L
a Cervantes CALLE DEL V I A CALLE DE LA ESTRELLA L A DE SAN C A Antonio de CALLE
los Alemanes
R E Y
DE LEGANES
CALLE DE C A L L E CALLE DELMARQUES L U N A CALLE LA NAO L L E D E L A P U E B L A
CALLE
CADARSO
LA FLOR BAJA
C A L L E D E I R U N
CALLE DEL RIO EG ANITOS
312-313_EW_Spain.indd 313 05/10/15 2:47 pm

C/ ESTANISLAO C A L L E CADARSO CALLE DEL RELOJ RECODO Santo G R C/ DE LOS LIBREROS CALLE DE SILVIA CA L L E C/ DE LORETO Y C/ DE LA BALLESTA C/ DEL BARCO CALLE DE
FIGUERAS
CALLE DE
CHICOTE
Domingo
PLAZA DE
P A S E O
Palacio
V I C E N T E JARDINES DE LA MARINA C A L L E D E T O R I J A Santo V I A Callao MIGUELMOYA CALLE CONCEPCIÓN ARENAL ROMANOS CALLE DE GONZALO JIMENEZ DE QUESADA Telefónica CALLE DE VALVERDE
SOLEDAD
Estación del Norte C A L L E D E L A I L U S T R A C I O N D E del Senado CALLE DEL FOMENTO C AL LE D E L EG A N ITO S C/ DE ISABEL LA CATOLICA A N CALLE DE SANTA MARIA
Príncipe Pío (Príncipe Pío) D E L PLAZA DE L OS TUDESCOS HORNO DE LA MATA
TRAVESIA DEL
ESPAÑOLA
SABATINI
C A L L E
A R R I A Z A
PO DE LA FLORIDA
R E Y
C/ DE
C U E S T A D E S A N GUILLERMO ROLLAND B O L A Domingo PLAZA DE D E J A C O M E T R E Z O G R A N V I A
SANTO
C A L L E D E M E S O N E R O
GLORIETA DE L A DOMINGO PLAZA DEL
SAN VICENTE TO JARDINES Monasterio de la ENCARNACION C A L L E D E SA N T O D O M I N G O C A L L E TERNERA D E P R E C I A D O S CALLAO Callao CALLE C/ DE LA C/ DE LAS TRES CRUCES Gran Vía
CHINCHILLA
AVADA DE PORTUGAL PUER DEL P ALACIO C/ DE SAN QUINTIN ENCARNACION C U E S TA D E C/ DE CA MPOMANES LOS ANGELES PLAZA DE SANTA CALLE DE TRUJILLOS TRUJILLOS C/ DEL POSTIGO C A L L E DE ABADA D E L A PLAZA DEL PJE COMERCIO
C/ DE LA
Encarnación
S A L U D
DE SAN MARTIN
C/ DE
PLAZA DE LA
C/ DE LAS NAVAS
VENERAS
C/ DE
DE TOLOSA
LAS CONCHAS
REAL
JARDINES DEL
CABO NOVAL
COSTANILLA DE
C A L L E
CATALINA DE
C/ DE LOS
CARMEN
TRAV.DE
Monasterio
PLAZA DE
DEL Palacio B A I L E N CALLE DE FELIPE V CAÑOS DEL PERAL LOS DONADOS SAN MARTIN C/ DE LA VITORIA D E D E L C A L L E ALBERTO L A M O N T E R A
de las Descalzas
C/ DE LA PRIORA
C A L L E A R R I E T A
C/ DE LA FLORA
Reales
C/ DE LA
CAMPO Real PLAZA DE Teatro PLAZA DE HILERAS CALLE DEL LAS DESCALZAS MAESTR O TRAVESIA Inglés GALDO C A R M E N T E T U A N D E ADUANA
PLAZA DE
ORIENTE
Real
MISERICORDIA
ISABEL II
FRANCISCO
PIQUER
VIRGEN DEL PLAZA DE D E LEPANTO CALLE DE VERGARA C/ DE Opera CALLE DE C/ DE LAS FUENTES C A L San Ginés CALLE PLAZA DEL El Corte P R E C I A D O S D E Sol C A L L E PJE AHORROS
DESCALZAS
CENTRO
LAS L E
C/ DE CARLOS III
C A L L E
DE
D E L
CELENQUE
LA AMNISTIA
C/ DE
ARMAS
Iglesia de
LOS BORDADORES
CALLE
A R E N A L
PLAZA DE
CALLE DE
SAN GINES
LA MORO CALLE DE REBEQUE CALLE DE REQUENA SANTIAGO SANTACLARA C/ DE LA UNION C/ DE LAZO C/ DE L A INDEPEND ENCIA LA ESCALINATA BONETILLO PLAZA DE LOS FELIPE NERI CALLE DE PLAZA
CARRERA DE SAN JERONIMO
NOBLEJAS
RAMALES
PLAZA DE
M A Y O R
San Nicolás NICOLAS
Casa de
HERRADORES C/ DE SAN
Iglesia de
PJE
DE CALLE LEMOS CALLE DE COST DE SANTIAGO C A L L E FELIPE III CALLE DE POSTAS ESPARTEROS C/ CORREO Correos Y MA THEU
CALLE DE
C A L L
ESPEJO
SANTIAGO
PAZ
PLAZA DE
CALLE
Catedral de la C A L L E CALLE DEL FACTOR C/ DEL SAN C/ SEÑORES DE LUZON LAS MORENAS SAN CRISTOBAL PLAZA DE DE CADIZ
PONTEJOS
CALLE DE
LA
Almudena BIOMBO PLAZA PLAZA DE SAN C/ MARQUES M VIUDO DE PONTEJOS C/ SAN RICARDO E D E C A R R E T A S C/ DE ESPOZ
PASEO C U E S T A D E L A V E G A ALMUDENA C/ DE LA AUST RIAS M A Y O R C/ CONDE DE MIRANDA Mercado de MAYOR C/ DE GERONA DE SANTA CALLE DE CALLE DE BARCELONA L A DE C R U Z
MIGUEL
DEL BIOMBO
C/ DE
C/
PLAZA
DEL
ZARAGOZA
PLAZA
C/
LA VILLA
GATO
P A S E O D E L A C I U D A D D E P L A S E N C I A Muralla C A L L E C A L L E Ayuntamiento PLAZA DE CODO San Miguel CAVA DE SAN MIGUEL PLAZA DE CRUZ CALLE DE LA BOLSA C A L L E D E CALLE ALVAREZ
Torre de los
C/ DE LA
Arabe
DE MIRANDA
GTA GTA ROLLO Lujanes PLAZA DEL CONDE C/ DEL CALLE I M PERIAL Palacio de C A L L E PLAZA DE
JACINTO
AZORIN CONSEJOS DE LOS C/ DEL PRETIL PASADIZO DEL MAESTRO VILLA C/ DEL SALVADOR
BENAVENTE
CALLE DE
P A R QUE DE A TENA S BOCCHERINI B A I L E N D E L CORDON CALLE DE PANECILLO PLAZA CONDE CUCHILLEROS C/ DE LOS CALLE LA LECHUGA Santa Cruz D E
PARQUE DEL EMIR C/ DEL S A C R A M E N T O LETAMENDI PUÑONROSTRO BARAJAS GOMEZ DE MORA
PLAZA DE
LA PROVINCIA SANTO TOMAS

SAN JAVIER
C A L L E D E S MOHAMED I D E S E G O V I A C/ DE LA VILLA PLAZA DE DEL CALLE C/ DEL DR Basílica Pontífica CALLE PASA PLAZA DE C A L L E D E A T O C H A
C A L L E
de San Miguel
PUERTA
LA CRUZ
PLAZA DE
CALLE DEL CONDE
CERRADA
DE
DE ROMANONES
CALLE DE SEGOVIA
VERDE
PUERTO M A Z A R R E D O E G O V I A CUESTA DE JAVALQUINTO CALLE DE CUESTA DE GALIN DO VIEJOS MO RERIA PLAZA DEL C/ DEL PRINCIPE COST DEL D E L N U N C I O B A J A GRAFAL SEGOVIA NUEVA DUQUE DE RIVAS C O N C E P C I O N J E
JARDINES DE

LAS VISTILLAS
DE GUEVARA
ALAMILLO C/ DEL TORO
VALLICIERGO
CAÑOS
CTA DE
CALLEDE
ANGLONA
LA MORERIA
NUNCIO
de San
C/ DE S.
LA PAJA
M A N Z CALLE DE BEATRIZ LOS RAMON D E LA C/ DE GRANADO PLAZA DE C A L L E C A V A DE BRUNO Colegiata CALLE DE LA COLEGIATA DE Tirso CALLE DE LUIS VELEZ
PLAZA DE ALFONSOVI
DEL C A L L E D E L D E A N A R E S PLAZA DE GABRIEL CIEGOS DE CALLE ANGOSTADE PLAZA DE R E D O N D I L L A Capilla d. COSTDESANPEDRO L E D E L A L M E N D R O CALLE Isidro Tirso CALLE de Molina
MIRO
TOLEDO
CALLE
L A
Obispo
C A L L E R ON D A DE SE GOVIA CALLE DE E LOS MANCEBOS GRANADO COSTANILLA DE SAN ANDRE S Iglesia de D E ALTA ALTA de Molina PLAZA DE TIRSO CALLE DE LA MAGDALENA
CAVA
DE MOLINA
D E
VIRGEN C A L L E O D E M O R E N O N I E T O C A L L YESEROS C A L L E C/ DE LO S MAN CEBOS San Andrés C A L C A L L E DE LA CAVA ESTUDIOS CALLE DEL DUQUE DE ALBA DE LA CALLE C A L L E C A LA CABEZA
CALLE DE
PLAZA DE
SAN ANDRES
C/ DE LOS
PLAZA DEL
C/ DE SAN MILLAN
E N CALLE DE SAN BUENA VENTURA C A L L E D E D O N P E D R O PLAZA DE HUMILLADERO CALLE La Latina T O L E D O PLAZA DEL C A L L C/ DE SOLER Y GONZALEZ L L E
PLAZA DE LA
D E
C/ DE
LA N I N A LAS VISTILLAS CALLE C A L L E PLAZA DE DE MOROS CEBADA DUQUE J U A N E L O E C A L L E D E L C A LV A RI O
PUERTA
S. PEDRO
DE ALBA
ESPADA
MARTIR
LOS CARROS
TRAVESIA DE
CARRERA DE SAN FRANCISCO
L U CALLE C U DE D E C A L L E D E J E S U S D
Mercado de CALLE DE TRAV. DE LA CALLE DE LA
J J E R T E D E C/ DE ORIENTE ENCOMIENDA ESGRIMA E
DE CALLE DEL FOSFORO ALGECIRAS E S T A D E SAN FRANCISCO SAN L A S la Cebada C A L L E LAS MALDONADAS D E L Y CALLE DE MINIS TRILES

PLAZA DE


E C A L L E ISIDRO C/ DE TABERNILLAS C A L L E D E L A L
E N C O M I E N D A
C A L L E D E L A M A R I A
CALLE
E D San Francisco A G U A S C/ DE LUCIENTES CALLE DE LA CEBADA R U D A EL CALLE DE DOS HERMANAS C A L L E A V
PASEO D M E L A N C O L I C O S N I E V A R O N D A D E CA LLE LABRADOR ANGEL C/ DE LMEDIODIA C A L L E D E L H U M I L L A D E R O LA SIERPE A N A RASTRO DE D E A B A D E S M E S O N A P I C/ DE SAN
el Grande
CARLOS
CALLE DE
San Cayetano O S O
E P L A S P A R QUE DE LA CORNISA G R A N DEL AGUILA GRANDE CALLE LÓPEZ SILVA S A N T A C A L L E Iglesia de D E L E S
C A L L E P I Z A R R A L D E A DE CALLE
C/ DE LOS
E L C/ DELMEDIODIACHICA IRLANDESES D E D E L LA V APIES
L A S R O S A R I O T O L E D O C U R T I D O R E S EMBAJADORES C A L L E
PLAZA
L C CALLE E CALATRAVA C A L L E GENERAL VARA C/ DE SAN CAYETANO
A R E A L V I A DEL REY CALLE DE LOS CABESTREROS D E CARAVACA
C L O S JEMENUNO O D E S C A R G A S D E L BERNABE DEL A M P A R O
DE
L A D E C A L L E SAN PALOMA CALLE D E CALLE DE FRAY CEFERINO GONZÁLEZ CABESTREROS CALLE
D E M A R I A CALLE DE D E CALLE CALLE DE MIRA EL RIO ALTA C A L L E R O D A S P A R E D E S
DE
TRA VESIA
C/ DE RUY GONZALEZ DE CLAVIJO S E G O V I A DE LA D E C A L L E C A L L E D E L C A R N E R O R I B E R A D E S O M B R E R E T E
C A LLE
BASTERO
D E
P A S E O S A N T A I C A LL E D E LA VENT OS A S A N CALLE D E M IR A C A R L O S C A L L E CALLE CALLE DE LA HUERTA DEL BAYO CALLE C A L L E D E L T R I B U L E T E
La Corrala
D E
M
MELLIZO
D E P R G I L M O N F R A N C I S C O CALLE DEL CAPITAN CALLEJON DEL EL L A DE CALLE SANTIAGO EL VERDE DE D E
E
TRAVESIA DE GILMON C A L L E SALAZAR MARTINEZ A R G A N Z U E L A RI O A R N I C H E S D E PENA DEL C A L L E P R O V I S I O N E S
CALLE DE
C A L L E
I
C A L L E A CALLE DE LEONOR DE LA VEGA Puerta B AJA C A L L E D E M I R A E L S O L EMBAJADORES D E
de
L
GLORIETA DE Toledo VENTORILLO CASINO C A L L E
PUERTA DE TOLEDO C A L L E DE FRANCIA DEL
Puerta de Puerta PLAZA CAMPILLO Real Fábrica
Toleda de Toledo MUNDO NUEVO CALLE de Tabacos
D E CALLEJON DEL MERCADO
314-315_EW_Spain.indd 314 02/10/2017 15:19

C/ ESTANISLAO C A L L E CADARSO CALLE DEL RELOJ RECODO Santo G R C/ DE LOS LIBREROS CALLE DE SILVIA CA L L E C/ DE LORETO Y C/ DE LA BALLESTA C/ DEL BARCO CALLE DE
FIGUERAS
CALLE DE
CHICOTE
Domingo
PLAZA DE
P A S E O
V I C E N T E JARDINES DE LA MARINA C A L L E D E T O R I J A Santo V I A Callao MIGUELMOYA CALLE CONCEPCIÓN ARENAL ROMANOS CALLE DE GONZALO JIMENEZ DE QUESADA Telefónica CALLE DE VALVERDE
Palacio
SOLEDAD
Estación del Norte C A L L E D E L A I L U S T R A C I O N D E del Senado CALLE DEL FOMENTO C AL LE D E L EG A N ITO S C/ DE ISABEL LA CATOLICA A N CALLE DE SANTA MARIA
Príncipe Pío (Príncipe Pío) D E L PLAZA DE L OS TUDESCOS HORNO DE LA MATA
TRAVESIA DEL
ESPAÑOLA
SABATINI
C A L L E
PO DE LA FLORIDA
A R R I A Z A
R E Y
C/ DE
SANTO
C U E S T A D E S A N GUILLERMO ROLLAND B O L A Domingo PLAZA DE D E J A C O M E T R E Z O G R A N V I A
C A L L E D E M E S O N E R O
GLORIETA DE L A DOMINGO PLAZA DEL
SAN VICENTE TO JARDINES Monasterio de la ENCARNACION C A L L E D E SA N T O D O M I N G O C A L L E TERNERA D E P R E C I A D O S CALLAO Callao CALLE C/ DE LA C/ DE LAS TRES CRUCES Gran Vía
CHINCHILLA
AVADA DE PORTUGAL PUER DEL P ALACIO C/ DE SAN QUINTIN ENCARNACION C U E S TA D E C/ DE CA MPOMANES LOS ANGELES PLAZA DE SANTA CALLE DE TRUJILLOS TRUJILLOS C/ DEL POSTIGO C A L L E DE ABADA D E L A PLAZA DEL PJE COMERCIO
C/ DE LA
S A L U D
Encarnación
DE SAN MARTIN
C/ DE
PLAZA DE LA
C/ DE LAS NAVAS
VENERAS
C/ DE
DE TOLOSA
LAS CONCHAS
REAL
JARDINES DEL
CABO NOVAL
COSTANILLA DE
C A L L E
CARMEN
CATALINA DE
C/ DE LOS
TRAV.DE
Monasterio
DEL Palacio B A I L E N CALLE DE FELIPE V CAÑOS DEL PERAL LOS DONADOS PLAZA DE C/ DE LA VITORIA D E D E L C A L L E ALBERTO L A M O N T E R A
SAN MARTIN
de las Descalzas
C A L L E A R R I E T A
C/ DE LA PRIORA
C/ DE LA FLORA
Reales
C/ DE LA
CAMPO Real PLAZA DE Teatro PLAZA DE HILERAS CALLE DEL LAS DESCALZAS MAESTR O TRAVESIA Inglés GALDO C A R M E N T E T U A N D E ADUANA
PLAZA DE
ORIENTE
Real
MISERICORDIA
ISABEL II
FRANCISCO
VIRGEN DEL PLAZA DE D E LEPANTO CALLE DE VERGARA C/ DE Opera CALLE DE C/ DE LAS FUENTES C A L Iglesia de CALLE PLAZA DEL El Corte P R E C I A D O S D E Sol C A L L E PJE AHORROS
PIQUER
DESCALZAS
CENTRO
C/ DE CARLOS III
LAS L E
C A L L E
DE
D E L
CELENQUE
C/ DE
LA AMNISTIA
ARMAS
CALLE
San Ginés
A R E N A L
LAZO
PLAZA DE
CALLE DE
PLAZA DE
LA MORO CALLE DE REBEQUE CALLE DE REQUENA PLAZA DE SANTACLARA C/ DE LA UNION C/ DE C/ DE L A INDEPEND ENCIA LA ESCALINATA BONETILLO PLAZA DE LOS FELIPE NERI CALLE DE LOS BORDADORES SAN GINES TRAVARENAL PUERTA DEL SO
CARRERA DE SAN JERONIMO
NOBLEJAS
RAMALES
SANTIAGO
M A Y O R
San Nicolás NICOLAS
Casa de
HERRADORES C/ DE SAN
Iglesia de
PJE
DE CALLE LEMOS CALLE DE COST DE SANTIAGO C A L L E FELIPE III CALLE DE POSTAS ESPARTEROS C/ CORREO Correos Y MA THEU
CALLE DE
C A L L
PAZ
ESPEJO
SANTIAGO
PLAZA DE
PLAZA DE
CALLE
Catedral de la C A L L E CALLE DEL FACTOR C/ DEL SAN C/ SEÑORES DE LUZON LAS MORENAS SAN CRISTOBAL PONTEJOS DE CADIZ
CALLE DE
LA
Almudena BIOMBO PLAZA PLAZA DE SAN C/ MARQUES M VIUDO DE PONTEJOS C/ SAN RICARDO E D E C A R R E T A S C/ DE ESPOZ
PASEO C U E S T A D E L A V E G A ALMUDENA C/ DE LA AUST RIAS M A Y O R C/ CONDE DE MIRANDA Mercado de MAYOR C/ DE GERONA DE SANTA CALLE DE CALLE DE BARCELONA L A DE C R U Z
MIGUEL
DEL BIOMBO
C/ DE
C/
PLAZA
DEL
ZARAGOZA
PLAZA
C/
GATO
PLAZA DE CODO
P A S E O D E L A C I U D A D D E P L A S E N C I A Muralla C A L L E C A L L E Ayuntamiento LA VILLA San Miguel CAVA DE SAN MIGUEL PLAZA DE CRUZ CALLE DE LA BOLSA C A L L E D E CALLE ALVAREZ
Torre de los
C/ DE LA
Arabe
DE MIRANDA
GTA GTA ROLLO Lujanes PLAZA DEL CONDE C/ DEL CALLE I M PERIAL Palacio de C A L L E PLAZA DE
JACINTO
AZORIN CONSEJOS DE LOS C/ DEL PRETIL PASADIZO DEL MAESTRO VILLA C/ DEL SALVADOR
BENAVENTE
CALLE DE
P A R QUE DE A TENA S BOCCHERINI B A I L E N D E L CORDON CALLE DE PANECILLO PLAZA CONDE CUCHILLEROS C/ DE LOS CALLE LA LECHUGA Santa Cruz D E
PARQUE DEL EMIR C/ DEL LETAMENDI PUÑONROSTRO BARAJAS GOMEZ DE MORA
PLAZA DE
S A C R A M E N T O
LA PROVINCIA SANTO TOMAS

C A L L E D E S MOHAMED I D E S E G O V I A C/ DE LA VILLA PLAZA DE SAN JAVIER DEL CALLE C/ DEL DR Basílica Pontífica CALLE PASA PLAZA DE C A L L E D E A T O C H A
C A L L E
de San Miguel
PUERTA
LA CRUZ
CALLE DEL CONDE
PLAZA DE
CERRADA
DE
DE ROMANONES
VERDE
PUERTO M A Z A R R E D O E G O V I A CUESTA DE JAVALQUINTO CALLE DE CUESTA DE GALIN DO VIEJOS MO RERIA PLAZA DEL C/ DEL PRINCIPE COST DEL D E L N U N C I O B A J A GRAFAL SEGOVIA NUEVA DUQUE DE RIVAS C O N C E P C I O N J E R O N I M A
CALLE DE SEGOVIA

JARDINES DE
LAS VISTILLAS
DE GUEVARA
ALAMILLO C/ DEL TORO
VALLICIERGO
CAÑOS
CALLEDE
CTA DE
ANGLONA
LA MORERIA
NUNCIO
de San
M A N Z CALLE DE BEATRIZ LOS RAMON D E LA C/ DE GRANADO PLAZA DE C A L L E C A V A DE BRUNO Colegiata CALLE DE LA COLEGIATA DE Tirso CALLE DE LUIS VELEZ
LA PAJA
C/ DE S.
DEL C A L L E D E L D E A N A R E S PLAZA DE GABRIEL CIEGOS DE CALLE ANGOSTADE PLAZA DE R E D O N D I L L A Capilla d. COSTDESANPEDRO L E D E L A L M E N D R O CALLE Isidro Tirso CALLE de Molina
PLAZA DE ALFONSOVI
MIRO
TOLEDO
CALLE
L A
Obispo
C A L L E R ONDA DE SE GOVIA CALLE DE E LOS MANCEBOS GRANADO COSTANILLA DE SAN ANDRE S Iglesia de D E ALTA ALTA de Molina PLAZA DE TIRSO CALLE DE LA MAGDALENA
CAVA
DE MOLINA
D E
VIRGEN C A L L E O D E M O R E N O N I E T O C A L L YESEROS C A L L E C/ DE LO S MAN CEBOS San Andrés C A L C A L L E DE LA CAVA ESTUDIOS CALLE DEL DUQUE DE ALBA DE LA CALLE C A L L E C A LA CABEZA
CALLE DE
PLAZA DE
SAN ANDRES
C/ DE LOS
PLAZA DEL
C/ DE SAN MILLAN
E N CALLE DE SAN BUENA VENTURA C A L L E D E D O N P E D R O PLAZA DE HUMILLADERO CALLE La Latina T O L E D O PLAZA DEL C A L L C/ DE SOLER Y GONZALEZ L L E
PLAZA DE LA
D E
LA I N N A LAS VISTILLAS CALLE C A L L E PLAZA DE DE MOROS CEBADA DUQUE J U A N E L O E C A L L E D E L C A LV A RI O
PUERTA
C/ DE
S. PEDRO
MARTIR
ESPADA
DE ALBA
LOS CARROS
TRAVESIA DE
CARRERA DE SAN FRANCISCO
L U CALLE C U DE D E C A L L E D E J E S U S D
Mercado de CALLE DE TRAV. DE LA CALLE DE LA
J J E R T E D E C/ DE ORIENTE ENCOMIENDA ESGRIMA E
DE CALLE DEL FOSFORO ALGECIRAS E S T A D E SAN FRANCISCO SAN L A S la Cebada C A L L E LAS MALDONADAS D E L Y CALLE DE MINIS TRILES

PLAZA DE


E C A L L E ISIDRO C/ DE TABERNILLAS C A L L E D E L A L
E N C O M I E N D A
C A L L E D E L A M A R I A
CALLE
E D San Francisco A G U A S C/ DE LUCIENTES CALLE DE LA CEBADA R U D A EL CALLE DE DOS HERMANAS C A L L E A V
PASEO D M E L A N C O L I C O S N I E V A R O N D A D E CA LLE LABRADOR ANGEL C/ DE LMEDIODIA C A L L E D E L H U M I L L A D E R O LA SIERPE A N A RASTRO DE D E A B A D E S M E S O N A P I C/ DE SAN
el Grande
CARLOS
CALLE DE
San Cayetano O S O
E P L A S P A R QUE DE LA CORNISA G R A N DEL AGUILA GRANDE CALLE LÓPEZ SILVA S A N T A C A L L E Iglesia de D E L E S
C A L L E P I Z A R R A L D E A DE CALLE
C/ DE LOS
E L C/ DELMEDIODIACHICA IRLANDESES D E L LA V APIES
L A S R O S A R I O T O L E D O D E C U R T I D O R E S EMBAJADORES C A L L E
PLAZA
L C CALLE E CALATRAVA C A L L E GENERAL VARA C/ DE SAN CAYETANO
A R E A L V I A DEL REY CALLE DE LOS CABESTREROS D E CARAVACA
C L O S JEMENUNO O D E S C A R G A S D E L BERNABE DEL A M P A R O
DE
L A D E C A L L E SAN PALOMA CALLE D E CALLE DE FRAY CEFERINO GONZÁLEZ CABESTREROS CALLE
D E M A R I A CALLE DE D E CALLE CALLE DE MIRA EL RIO ALTA C A L L E R O D A S P A R E D E S
TRA VESIA
DE
C/ DE RUY GONZALEZ DE CLAVIJO S E G O V I A DE LA D E C A L L E C A L L E D E L C A R N E R O R I B E R A D E S O M B R E R E T E
C A LLE
BASTERO
P A S E O S A N T A I C A LL E D E LA VENT OS A S A N CALLE D E M IR A C A R L O S C A L L E CALLE CALLE DE LA HUERTA DEL BAYO CALLE C A L L E D E L T R I B U L E T E
La Corrala
D E
D E
M
MELLIZO
D E P G I L M O N F R A N C I S C O CALLE DEL CAPITAN CALLEJON DEL EL L A DE CALLE SANTIAGO EL VERDE DE D E
E
R
TRAVESIA DE GILMON C A L L E SALAZAR MARTINEZ A R G A N Z U E L A RI O A R N I C H E S D E PENA DEL C A L L E P R O V I S I O N E S
CALLE DE
C A L L E
I
C A L L E A CALLE DE LEONOR DE LA VEGA Puerta B AJA C A L L E D E M I R A E L S O L EMBAJADORES D E
de
L
GLORIETA DE Toledo VENTORILLO CASINO C A L L E
PUERTA DE TOLEDO C A L L E DE FRANCIA DEL
Puerta de Puerta PLAZA CAMPILLO Real Fábrica
Toleda de Toledo MUNDO NUEVO CALLE de Tabacos
D E CALLEJON DEL MERCADO
314-315_EW_Spain.indd 315 02/10/2017 15:19

CALLE DE VIRTUDES LAFUENTE H O Z P I N A R Museo Lázaro A C/ DE MARIA
DE MOLINA
C A N O L A A O N A N G E L PASEO D E L DE HOYOS O N Galdiano C O E L L O S A C
CALLE
C A L L E D E G A R C I A D E
C A L L E
A L O N S O MODESTO D E P A R E D E S R U B C A L L E DE LOPEZ A R L G A V E L A Z Q U E Z
DE
D E
CALLE DE PONCE DE LEON Z CALLE E R
MEDELLIN
C A L L E S A N T I S I M A DE S E
D E C A L L E D
C A L L E
D E C A L L E D E DE V I R I A T O M I G U E L CALLE DEL HERMANOS BECQUER D I O D E L G E N E R A L O R A A
CALLEDE
C A L L E CALLE D Museo D C L A U L
CALLE DE BALMES F E R N A N D E Z E LA GENERAL ORAA E L E
GLORIETA P A S E O D E L G E N E R A L Sorolla GLORIETA A C D E
ELOY GONZALO SOROLLA M A R T I N E Z C A M P O S DE EMILIO C A L L E D E
DEL PINTOR

T R I N I D A D
CASTELAR
CALLE DE Iglesia D E D E L E L D I E G O D E L E O N
C A L L E E FORTUNY C A D E C A L L E
CALLE
CALLE
C A L L E
V I R I A T O D E S A N T A
DE
L C A L L E D E R A FA E L C A LV O
DE C A LV O L DE CASTELLANA C A L L E
DE
CALLE D E L SAGUNTO E N C A L L E D E R A F A E L A C C A L L E D E A M A L D O N A D O
QUESADA
CALLE DE MURILLO JUAN CALLE S C
C A L L E
D E S A N T A Rubén C A L L E A G
Darío
C A L L E C A S T I L L O H O Z A
GLORIETA DE
PLAZA DE DE LULIO PLAZA DE DATO RUBÉN DARÍO PASEO DE EDUARDO DATO C A L L E D E L J U A N
OLAVIDE DE RAIMUNDO CHAMBERI PASEO DE EDUARDO Museo de C A L L E D E B R A V O
FELICIANA G R A C I A
CALLE L A Escultura al Palacio de J U A N B R A V O
Rubén Aire Libre Amboage Núñez de
D E Darío Y D E Balboa
CALLE
D E
L U C H A N A C A L L E D E L G E N E R A L A R R A N D O U N CALLE DE JENNER C A L L E V E L A Z Q U E Z
DE
AUSTRIA
ALBURQUERQUE GARCILASCO C A L L E D E L A N D E Z T O D E P A D I L L A
C A L L E
T R A
CALLE DE
CALLE DE A L G A R C A L L E C A L L E F E R N E S P A N O L E T O O N R O O R MARQUES DE VILLAMEJOR O L E L L E
D E
Bilbao D E C A L L E M A N U E L C A L L E D E B A A G F N Fundación C O A L
Carlos de
C A L L E D E C O R T I N A D E D E C A R A C A S R M A Amberes C D E
U L CALLE DEL MARQUES DEL RISCAL R
Z A C A S T E L L A N A C A L L E D E R J O S E O
P A L A F O X
C A L L E D E D E S A N TA C A L L E D E S E D I O R T E G A Y G A S S E T
U
G A L L E G O D E S A L AM A NCA
N I C A S I O C A L L E A
D E D E Z U R B A R A N L C A L L E
C A L L E M A N U E L CALLE DEL E C
MARAÑON E MARQUES DE VILLAMAGNA D B A L B O A
JOSE E C A L L E D E
C O
CALLE E N G L L E CALLE DE L D O N R A M O N D E L A
A D BLANCA DE NAVARRA L L A E C R U Z
CALLE DE EGUILAZ
C D A
C A L L E
CALLE DE MANUEL A E C D E
CALLE DE FRANCISCO DE ROJAS
D E GONZALEZ LONGORIA R A C I A Alonso C L S
Martínez L A
S I L V E L A
S A A E G
DE V A R R U B I A S
C A L L E D E F E R N A N D O E L D E C L L A
C A L L E
ANTONIO
CALLE DE G A S T A Alonso PLAZA DE E S A N T O C A L L E D E C A L N U N E Z
FLORES
ALVAREZ QUINTERO
ALONSO
C A L L E
D E
C/ DE
A P O D A C A C A L L E D E S E R R C/ DE LOS HERMANOS Martínez MARTÍNEZ L ESQUINZA A Y A L A C A L L E E D E A Y A L A
C A L L E
C A L L E D E D E A L C A L L E D E O R F I L A AMADOR DE LOS RIOS PJE PAZ D Z
Alonso
C
B A R C E L O PLAZA DE Martínez C A L L E D E MONTE U E D E
D E
SANTA
Mercado
D E M E J I A BARBARA CALLE DE C A M P O A M O R P A S E O de la Paz L E Q St George’s
TRV FLORIDA A N O A N G U I T A
C H U R R U C A
C A L L E L A DEL CALLE DE ALCALAGALIANO L A Z Anglican C A L L E
Church
ARQUITECTO B E N E F I C E N C I A L E Q U E R I C A CALLE ORELLANA C A L L E D E H E R M O S I L L A C A
Museo del
Tribunal RIBERA Romanticismo M A T E O D E A R G E N S O L A Audiencia CALLE C A L L E L D E
JARDINES DEL R R A
CALLE
Museo de L A DE DE JUSTINIANO Nacional MARQUES DE E H E R M O S I L L A
Historia D E S A N C A L L E CALLE DE GARCIA GUTIERREZ A ZURGENA
de Madrid C A L L E SANTA S E R R A N O C O E L L O V
C A L L E D E Sociedad General D E TERESA D E C A L L E
de Autores
C A L L E
PLAZA VILLA
Tribunal C A L L E CALLE DE SAN LORENZO de España F E R N A N D C A L L E CALLE DEL GENERAL CASTANOS G E N O V Museo de PLAZA DE Monumento D E Serrano C A L L E D E
Colón
G O Y A
a Colón
DE PARIS
G O Y A
JARDINES DEL
SAN JOAQUIN SANT A AGUEDA CALLE DE B R I G I D A E Z A Iglesia de CALLE DEL MARQUES DE LA ENSENADA Cera COLÓN DESCUBRIMIENTO E Velázquez Iglesia de la
C/ DE
T R A V E S I A D E S A N M AT E O
H O R T A L P E L A Y O CALLE DE BELEN C A L L E SALESAS Tribunal C A L L E D E J O R G E J U A N
C/ DE D E C A L L E D E S A N T A CALLE DE REGUEROS O V I PLAZA Santa Barbara D E C L A U D I O L A G A S C A D Concepción
DE LAS
STA BARBARA
CALLE DE TRAV. BELEN Supremo
COLON C A L L E D E L A F A R M A C I A CALLE DE RECOLETOS B A L B O A
E CALLE DE SAN GREGORIO CALLE DE SAN LUCAS CALLE DE CALLE
CALLE DE LUIS DE GONGORA
D D E Nacional Arqueológico D E D E J U A N D E
C A L L E SANTO TOME BARBARA DE BRAGANZA Bibloteca Museo C A L L E D E J O R G E
C A L L E
D E H E R N A N C O R T E S
D E E D E C A L L E DEL DE Nacional C/ DE PUIGCERDA CALLE DE JORGE JUAN E
L D E P I A M O N T E CALLE DEL MARQUES L N U N E Z
L Chueca CONDE DE MONASTERIO CALLE DE TAMAYO
A G R AV I N A C A L L E CALLE DE GURTUBAY L
C PLAZA DE Y BAUS C A L L E C A L L E A
CHUECA C A L L E DE PASEO Estación de CALLE DEL CID C D E
C A L L E D E A U G U S T O
Recoletos
CALLE DE
C A L L E COSTANILLA DE F I G U E R O A CALLE VALGAME DIOS B A R Q U I L L O XIQUENA D E L A L M I R A N T E RECOLETOS CALLE GIL DE SANTIVANES C A L L E D E V I L L A N U E V A C A L L E
LOS CAPUCHINOS
F U E N C A R R A L
PEREZ GALDOS
Cafe
CALLE
Gijón
DE
316-317_EW_Spain.indd 316 05/10/15 2:37 pm
Eyewitness Travel LAYERS PRINTED:
Streetfinder holder template “UK” LAYER
(Source v1)
Date 13th August 2012
Size 125mm x 217mm

CALLE DE VIRTUDES LAFUENTE H O Z P I N A R Museo Lázaro A C/ DE MARIA
DE MOLINA
C A N O L A N A O A N G E L PASEO D E L DE HOYOS N O Galdiano C O E L L O A C S
CALLE
C A L L E D E G A R C I A D E
C A L L E
A L O N S O MODESTO D E P A R E D E S U B R C A L L E DE LOPEZ R A A L G V E L A Z Q U E Z
DE
D E
CALLE DE PONCE DE LEON Z CALLE E R
MEDELLIN
C A L L E S A N T I S I M A DE S E
D E C A L L E D
C A L L E
D E C A L L E D E DE V I R I A T O M I G U E L CALLE DEL HERMANOS BECQUER D I O D E L G E N E R A L O R A A
CALLEDE
C A L L E CALLE D Museo D C L A U L
CALLE DE BALMES F E R N A N D E Z E LA GENERAL ORAA E E L
GLORIETA P A S E O D E L G E N E R A L Sorolla GLORIETA C A D E
ELOY GONZALO SOROLLA M A R T I N E Z C A M P O S DE EMILIO C A L L E D E
DEL PINTOR

T R I N I D A D
CASTELAR
CALLE DE Iglesia D E D E L L E D I E G O D E L E O N
C A L L E E FORTUNY A C D E C A L L E
CALLE
CALLE
C A L L E
DE
V I R I A T O D E S A N T A
L C A L L E D E R A FA E L C A LV O
DE C A LV O L DE CASTELLANA C A L L E
DE
CALLE D E L C A L L E D E R A F A E L A C C A L L E D E A M A L D O N A D O
QUESADA
CALLE DE MURILLO JUAN CALLE C S
SAGUNTO E N
C A L L E
D E S A N T A Rubén C A L L E A G
Darío
C A L L E C A S T I L L O H O Z A
GLORIETA DE
PLAZA DE DE LULIO PLAZA DE DATO RUBÉN DARÍO PASEO DE EDUARDO DATO C A L L E D E L J U A N
OLAVIDE DE RAIMUNDO CHAMBERI PASEO DE EDUARDO Museo de C A L L E D E B R A V O
FELICIANA G R A C I A
CALLE L A Escultura al Palacio de J U A N B R A V O
Rubén Aire Libre Amboage Núñez de
D E Darío Y E D Balboa
CALLE
D E
L U C H A N A C A L L E D E L G E N E R A L A R R A N D O U N CALLE DE JENNER C A L L E V E L A Z Q U E Z
DE
AUSTRIA
C A L L E
ALBURQUERQUE GARCILASCO C A L L E D E L A N D E Z T O D E P A D I L L A
T R A
CALLE DE
CALLE DE A L G A R C A L L E C A L L E F E R N E S P A N O L E T O N O R O O R MARQUES DE VILLAMEJOR O E L L L E
D E
Bilbao D E C A L L E M A N U E L C A L L E D E B A A G F N Fundación C O A L
Carlos de
C A L L E D E C O R T I N A D E D E C A R A C A S R M A Amberes C D E
U L CALLE DEL MARQUES DEL RISCAL R
Z A C A S T E L L A N A C A L L E D E R J O S E O
P A L A F O X
C A L L E D E D E S A N TA C A L L E D E E S D I O R T E G A Y G A S S E T
U
G A L L E G O D E S A L AM A NCA
N I C A S I O C A L L E A
D E D E Z U R B A R A N L C A L L E
C A L L E M A N U E L CALLE DEL E C
MARAÑON E MARQUES DE VILLAMAGNA D B A L B O A
JOSE E C A L L E D E
C O
CALLE E N G L L E CALLE DE L D O N R A M O N D E L A
A D BLANCA DE NAVARRA L L A E C R U Z
CALLE DE EGUILAZ
C D A
C A L L E
CALLE DE MANUEL A E C D E
CALLE DE FRANCISCO DE ROJAS
D E GONZALEZ LONGORIA R A C I A Alonso C L S
Martínez L A
S I L V E L A
S A A E G
DE V A R R U B I A S
C A L L E D E F E R N A N D O E L D E C L L A
C A L L E
ANTONIO
CALLE DE G A S T A Alonso PLAZA DE E S A N T O C A L L E D E C A L N U N E Z
FLORES
ALONSO
ALVAREZ QUINTERO
C A L L E
D E
C/ DE
A P O D A C A C A L L E D E S E R R C/ DE LOS HERMANOS Martínez MARTÍNEZ L ESQUINZA A Y A L A C A L L E E D E A Y A L A
C A L L E
C A L L E D E D E L A C A L L E D E O R F I L A AMADOR DE LOS RIOS PJE PAZ D Z
Alonso
C
B A R C E L O PLAZA DE Martínez C A L L E D E MONTE E U D E
D E
SANTA
Mercado
D E M E J I A BARBARA CALLE DE C A M P O A M O R P A S E O de la Paz L E Q St George’s
TRV FLORIDA A N O A N G U I T A
C H U R R U C A
C A L L E L A DEL CALLE DE ALCALAGALIANO A L Z Anglican C A L L E
Church
ARQUITECTO B E N E F I C E N C I A L E Q U E R I C A CALLE ORELLANA C A L L E D E H E R M O S I L L A C A
Museo del
Tribunal RIBERA Romanticismo M A T E O D E A R G E N S O L A Audiencia CALLE C A L L E L D E
JARDINES DEL R R A
CALLE
Museo de L A DE DE JUSTINIANO Nacional MARQUES DE E H E R M O S I L L A
Historia D E S A N C A L L E CALLE DE GARCIA GUTIERREZ A ZURGENA
de Madrid C A L L E SANTA S E R R A N O C O E L L O V
C A L L E D E Sociedad General D E TERESA D E C A L L E
de Autores
C A L L E
PLAZA VILLA
Tribunal C A L L E CALLE DE SAN LORENZO de España F E R N A N D C A L L E CALLE DEL GENERAL CASTANOS G E N O V Museo de PLAZA DE Monumento D E Serrano C A L L E D E
Colón
a Colón
G O Y A
DE PARIS
G O Y A
JARDINES DEL
SAN JOAQUIN SANT A AGUEDA CALLE DE B R I G I D A E Z A Iglesia de CALLE DEL MARQUES DE LA ENSENADA Cera COLÓN DESCUBRIMIENTO E Velázquez Iglesia de la
C/ DE
T R A V E S I A D E S A N M AT E O
H O R T A L P E L A Y O CALLE DE BELEN C A L L E SALESAS Tribunal C A L L E D E J O R G E J U A N
C/ DE D E C A L L E D E S A N T A CALLE DE REGUEROS O V I PLAZA Santa Barbara D E C L A U D I O L A G A S C A D Concepción
STA BARBARA
DE LAS
CALLE DE TRAV. BELEN Supremo
COLON C A L L E D E L A F A R M A C I A CALLE DE RECOLETOS B A L B O A
E CALLE DE SAN GREGORIO CALLE DE SAN LUCAS CALLE DE CALLE
CALLE DE LUIS DE GONGORA
C A L L E SANTO TOME BARBARA DE BRAGANZA Bibloteca Museo C A L L E D E J O R G E
D D E Nacional Arqueológico D E D E J U A N D E
C A L L E
D E H E R N A N C O R T E S
D E E D E C A L L E DEL DE Nacional C/ DE PUIGCERDA CALLE DE JORGE JUAN E
L D E P I A M O N T E CALLE DEL MARQUES L N U N E Z
L Chueca CONDE DE MONASTERIO CALLE DE TAMAYO
A G R AV I N A C A L L E CALLE DE GURTUBAY L
C PLAZA DE Y BAUS C A L L E C A L L E A
CHUECA C A L L E DE PASEO Estación de CALLE DEL CID C D E
C A L L E D E A U G U S T O
Recoletos
C A L L E COSTANILLA DE F I G U E R O A CALLE VALGAME DIOS B A R Q U I L L O XIQUENA D E L A L M I R A N T E RECOLETOS DE CALLE GIL DE SANTIVANES C A L L E D E V I L L A N U E V A C A L L E
CALLE DE
LOS CAPUCHINOS
F U E N C A R R A L
PEREZ GALDOS
Cafe
CALLE
Gijón
316-317_EW_Spain.indd 317 05/10/15 2:37 pm

CALLE DE FUENCARRAL C A L L E HORTALEZA D E COSTANILLA DE C PLAZA DE CALLE DE SAN BARTOLOME D E BARBIERI S A N CALLE DE LA LIBERTAD M A R C O S C A L L E D E Cuartel General CALLE DE PRIM C A L L E D E CALLE DE VILLALAR DE SERRANO C A L L E D E
C A L L E
PJE
LOS CAPUCHINOS A L L E
C O N D E
ALHAMBRA
DE
CALLE DE RECOLETOS
CALLE DE
CALLE DE
VAZQUEZ
DE MELLA
Retiro
de Tierra
las Siete
Telefónica DE L CALLE DE COLMENARES CALLE DE Casa de del Ejército PASEO RECOLETOS CALLE MARQUES S A L U S T I A N O O L O Z A G A CALLE A L C A L A
CALLE C A L L E CALLE DEL C LAVEL A S I N F A N T A S B A R Q DEL DUERO PEDRO MUNOZ SECA PLAZA DE LA Retiro PLAZA DE
Chimeneas
Palacio de
PLAZA DE D E L DEL REY Linares Puerta D E PUERTA DE COSTA RICA
LA RED DE L A PLAZA U I L L O de Alcalá HERNANI PLAZA DE
SAN LUIS G R A N Iglesia de
Edificio CALLE DE VICTOR HUGO San José C A L L E GALICIA
la Estrella R E I N A Banco de BO L I V I A
C A L L E DE VALDEIGLESIAS España INDEPENDENCIA PLAZA DEL
Gran Vía D E L PLAZA DE MAESTRO VILLA
Edificio V I A Casa de D E
Grassy CIBELES A V E N I D A Vacas
C A B A L L E R O
CALLE DEL MARQUES
C O L O M B I A
CALLE DE LOS JARDINES D E G R A C I A C A L L E D E PASEO
Edificio Banco de
Metrópolis A L C A L A España CALLE DE RUIZ DE ALARCON CALLE DE VALENZUELA M E J I C O P A S E O D E
Palacio de
PODELA
VIRGEN DE LO
LA Comunicaciones GTA PLAZA DE REPUBLICA DOMINICANA
DE Banco de TITERES NICARAGUA
C/ DE LA
Círculo
CALLE Real Casino de de Bellas CALLE DEL MARQUES MARQUES DE CUBAS España Ayuntamiento D E
Academia Madrid D E Artes DE CASA RIERA
CALLE DEL
ADUANA S PELIGROS
de Bellas P R A D O C A L L E D E M O N TA L B A N CALLE DE ALFONSO XII
Casa de Artes P R A D O POSALONDELEST ANQUE
C A L L E C A L L E Naval A L F O N S O Museo Nacional de Monumento
la Aduana Sevilla Museo
CALLE DE SEVILLA AR LA B A N CALLE DE CEDACEROS Teatro de la C/ D E LOS JOVEL LANOS D E L O S M A D R A Z O D E L D E L C ALLE DE JUAN D E MENA a Alfonso XII
Artes Decorativas
Zarzuela
Bolsa de
CARRERA DE CA LL E D E C A L L E D E Z O R R I L L A Comercio C A L L E A R G E N T I N A Estanque GTA DE LA
PLAZA DE
P A S E O
SAN JERONIMO CANALEJAS C A R R E R A D E S A N Congreso C/ FERNANFLOR CALLE DEL P A S E O P A S E O DE AN TO X I M AU R A C PUERTA DE D E L A SARDANA
C / DE LA
MORETO N IO
VICTORIA
de los
CALLE DE LA CRUZ C A L L E CALLE C/ DE VENTURA DE LA VEGA Ateneo de CALLE SANTA CATALINA J E R O N I M O Diputados MARQUES DE CUBAS Bornemisza LA LEALTAD C A L LE D E Salon de Reinos A E ESPAÑA PASEO SALON DEL ESTANQUE
C/ DEL POZO
Museo
PLAZA DE
Thyssen-
L
L
PLAZA DE
LAS CORTES
Hotel
P A S E O D E
CALLE DE MENDEZ NUNEZ
CALLE DE NUNEZDEARCE D E L C/ MANUEL FERNANDEZ Madrid P R A D O AGUSTIN Hotel Fuente de CALLE DE FELIPE IV R U I Z Real Academia DE CASON DEL BUEN RETIRO D P A S E O P A R T E R R E PASEO DEL PARAGUAY Fuente de V E N E Z U E L A
Ritz by
Neptuno
DE
Belmond
E
Y GONZALEZ
D E L
la Alcachofa
Casón del Buen

FELIPE IV
PLAZA DE

CANOVAS
Español
SANTA ANA Teatro C A L L E Casa-Museo DUQUE DE MEDINACELI Palace PLAZA DE Española CALLE Retiro PUERTA DE Palacio de
Velázquez
DEL CASTILLO
ME Madrid de Lope de SAN C E R V A N T E S D E C A L L E D E L A A C A D E M I A A P A S E O
Vega
by Meliá P R I N C I P E L E O N P Iglesia de San F
L

CALLE
PLAZA DEL ECHEGARAY DEL INFANTE C A L L E DE D E A Jerónimo el Real O
ANGEL CALLE DE QUEVEDO P S Museo Edificio Jerónimos N

PLAZA DE D E L CALLE PLAZA A E del P A S E O D E L M A R Q U E S D E P O N T E J O S D E
MATUTE C A L L E JESUS Prado C A L L E D E L C A S A D O D E L A L I S A L S

D E V E G A S O
O
Real Academia de C A L L E L O P E D E A L A R C O N L A
la Historia E CALL E ALBER T O BOSCH Palacio de
Cristal
CANIZARES C A L L E C A L L E C A L L E D E L A S C/ DE H U E R T A S JESUS MAESTRO TELLERIA O X P A RQUE
CALLE DEL
DE
CALLE DE D E Antón CALLE DEL AMOR DE DIOS D E C/ DE SANTA POLONIA S A N T A M A R I A PLAZA DE PLAZA DE D MURILLO C A L L E D E E S P A L T E R I PUERTA DE MURILLO DEL R E P U B L I C A
I
C/
PLAZA DE
PLATERIA DE
E
ANTON
SAN JOSE
C A L L E D E L A M A G D A L E N A PLAZA DE Martín D E M O R A T I N SAN JUAN MARTINEZ L LA CHOPERA
MARTIN C A L L E D P A S E O DE
C A L L E D E L A A L A M E D A
A Cine R O J A S
CALLE
CALLE DE LA CABEZA M A R I DE ROSA Doré COSTANILLA DE LOS DESAMPARADOS F U C A R CALLE DE VERONICA E P A S E O PASEO C L E M E N T E RETIRO D E
CALLE DEL OLIVAR C A L LE D E L A V E O LMO C A L L E D E T O R R E C I L L AD E L L E A L PJE DORE A T O C H A C A L L E C A L L E D E D E L C A L L E D E S A N P E D R O D E G O B E R N A D O R Exhibi
L
CALLE DUQUE
F. NUNEZ

R
CALLE DE
C A L L E
SANSIMON
Caixaforum A
Centre
JARDIN
TRES PECES
El Angel Caído
D E L CALLE DE TRES PECES C/ DE LOS C A L L E CALLE DE SAN EUGENIO CALLE DE SAN BLAS A L M A D E N CENICERO P D J O S E BOTANICO C N U N E Z
A
R
O
L
Palacio de
L
C/ DE SAN CARLOS Fernán C A L L A G O M E Z MUTIS E F E R N A N
CALLE DE SAN ILDEFONSO
Z U R I T A
CALLE DE LA ESPERANZA B U E N A V I S T A Núñez C/ DEL MARQUES DE TOCA D E DEL D Q U E R D U Q U E D E
O
S A L I T R E
CALLE
C A L L E CALLE DE LA PRIMAVERA CALLE DE LA ESCUADRA D E D E CALLE DE SAN COSME Y SAN DAMIAN D E CALLE DE SANTA INES E A T O C H A C A L L E D E C L A U D I O M O Y A N O D P A S E O D E L MUNICIPALES
C A L L E
VIVEROS
E
C A L L E
D E L
D E
Convento de
PUERTA DEL
O L I VA R
C A L L E D E L A C A L L E F E C A L L E Santa Isabel S A N T A CALLE DEL DR MATA Ministerio de DOCTOR VELASCO A ANGEL CAIDO
L
PLAZA
PLAZA DE SANCHEZ PA S E O Agricultura F CALLE DEL POETA
LAVAPIES CALLE DEL DR DRUMEN Atocha O
Lavapiés CALLE DEL DOCTOR PIGA CALLE DEL DOCTOR FOURQUET HOSPIT AL I S A B E L BUSTILLO D E Atocha DEL N ESTEBAN VILLEGAS
PLAZA DEL
Museo
Museo
Nacional de
CARLOS V
O
Astronomico
C C A L L E DEL Nacional EMPERADOR L A CALLE Antropología S Observatorio C A L L E ANDRES TORREJON
D E Centro I N F A N T A CALLE DE JUAN VALERA
A
L CALLE DE
CALLE DE
CALLE
L S O M B R E R E R I A de Arte LUIS CAMOENS D E
E D C A L L E D E F O U R Q U E T A R G U M O S A Reina Sofía AVENIDA DE LA CIUDAD DE BARCELONA CALLE DE AGUSTIN QUEROL
X
DE MIGUEL SERVET E V A L E C A L L E D E L D O C T O R CALLE DE MALLORCA A T O C H A PASEO DE LAS DELICIAS MENDEZ ALVARO Estación de Atocha CALLE DE JUAN ANSELMO CLAVE J U L I A N C R I S T I N A
I
BAUTISTA SACCHETTI
I
I S A B E L
PASEO DE SANTA
ARGANZUELA
Renfe
Atocha
CALLE
Atocha Renfe
CALLE DE
DEL
CALLE DE JOSE
CALLE DE
ESPINO
CALLE AMPARO N C I A R O N D A D E DE LA VALDAVIA MARIA DE LA CABEZA CALLE DE TORTOSA P A S E O D E L A R E I N A G AYA R R E FUENTERRABIA
Real Fábrica
de Tapices
CALLE DEL MARQUES
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Eyewitness Travel LAYERS PRINTED:
Streetfinder holder template “UK” LAYER
(Source v1)
Date 13th August 2012
Size 125mm x 217mm

CALLE DE FUENCARRAL C A L L E HORTALEZA D E COSTANILLA DE C PLAZA DE CALLE DE SAN BARTOLOME D E BARBIERI S A N CALLE DE LA LIBERTAD M A R C O S C A L L E D E Cuartel General CALLE DE PRIM C A L L E D E CALLE DE VILLALAR DE SERRANO C A L L E D E D E L
C A L L E
PJE
LOS CAPUCHINOS A L L E
C O N D E
ALHAMBRA
DE
CALLE DE RECOLETOS
CALLE DE
CALLE DE
VAZQUEZ
DE MELLA
Retiro
de Tierra
las Siete
Telefónica DE L CALLE DE COLMENARES CALLE DE Casa de del Ejército PASEO RECOLETOS CALLE MARQUES S A L U S T I A N O O L O Z A G A CALLE A L C A L A
CALLE C A L L E CALLE DEL C LAVEL A S I N F A N T A S B A R Q DEL DUERO PEDRO MUNOZ SECA PLAZA DE LA Retiro PLAZA DE
Chimeneas
Palacio de
PLAZA DE D E L DEL REY Linares Puerta D E PUERTA DE COSTA RICA
LA RED DE L A PLAZA U I L L O de Alcalá HERNANI PLAZA DE
SAN LUIS G R A N Iglesia de
Edificio CALLE DE VICTOR HUGO San José C A L L E GALICIA
la Estrella R E I N A Banco de B O L I VI A
C A L L E DE VALDEIGLESIAS España INDEPENDENCIA PLAZA DEL
Gran Vía D E L PLAZA DE MAESTRO VILLA
Edificio V I A Casa de DE
Grassy CIBELES A V E N I D A Vacas
C A B A L L E R O
CALLE DEL MARQUES
C O L O M B I A
CALLE DE LOS JARDINES D E G R A C I A C A L L E D E PA S E O
Edificio Banco de
Metrópolis A L C A L A España CALLE DE RUIZ DE ALARCON CALLE DE VALENZUELA M E J I C O P A S E O D E
Palacio de
VIRGEN DE LO
PODELA
LA Comunicaciones GTA PLAZA DE REPUBLICA DOMINICANA
DE Banco de TITERES NICARAGUA
C/ DE LA
Círculo
CALLE Real Casino de de Bellas CALLE DEL MARQUES MARQUES DE CUBAS CALLE DEL España Ayuntamiento D E
Academia Madrid D E Artes DE CASA RIERA
ADUANA S PELIGROS
de Bellas P R A D O C A L L E D E M O N TA L B A N CALLE DE ALFONSO XII
Casa de Artes P R A D O POSALONDELEST ANQUE
C A L L E C A L L E Naval A L F O N S O Museo Nacional de Monumento
la Aduana Sevilla Museo
CALLE DE SEVILLA AR LA B A N CALLE DE CEDACEROS Teatro de la C/ D E LOS JOVEL LANOS D E L O S M A D R A Z O D E L D E L CALLE DE JUAN DE MEN A a Alfonso XII
Artes Decorativas
Zarzuela
Bolsa de
CARRERA DE CA LL E D E C A L L E D E Z O R R I L L A Comercio C A L L E A R G E N T I N A Estanque GTA DE LA
PLAZA DE
P A S E O
SAN JERONIMO CANALEJAS C A R R E R A D E S A N Congreso C/ FERNANFLOR CALLE DEL P A S E O P A S E O D E A N T O X I M A U R A C PUERTA DE D E L A SARDANA
C / DE LA
MORETO N I O
VICTORIA
de los
CALLE DE LA CRUZ C A L L E CALLE C/ DE VENTURA DE LA VEGA Ateneo de CALLE SANTA CATALINA J E R O N I M O Diputados MARQUES DE CUBAS Bornemisza LA LEALTAD C A L L E D E Salon de Reinos A ESPAÑA PASEO SALON DEL ESTANQUE
C/ DEL POZO
Museo
PLAZA DE
Thyssen-
L
L
PLAZA DE
E
LAS CORTES
Hotel
P A S E O D E
CALLE DE MENDEZ NUNEZ
CALLE DE NUNEZDEARCE D E L C/ MANUEL FERNANDEZ Madrid P R A D O AGUSTIN Hotel Fuente de CALLE DE FELIPE IV Real Academia DE CASON DEL BUEN RETIRO D P A S E O P A R T E R R E PASEO DEL PARAGUAY Fuente de V E N E Z U E L A
Ritz by
Neptuno
DE
Belmond
E
R U I Z
D E L
Y GONZALEZ
la Alcachofa
Casón del Buen

FELIPE IV
PLAZA DE
CANOVAS

Español
SANTA ANA Teatro C A L L E Casa-Museo DUQUE DE MEDINACELI Palace PLAZA DE Española CALLE Retiro PUERTA DE Palacio de
Velázquez
DEL CASTILLO
ME Madrid de Lope de SAN C E R V A N T E S D E CALLE DE LA ACADEMIA A P A S E O
Vega
by Meliá P R I N C I P E L E O N P Iglesia de San F
L

CALLE
PLAZA DEL ECHEGARAY DEL INFANTE C A L L E DE D E A Jerónimo el Real O
ANGEL CALLE DE QUEVEDO P S Museo Edificio Jerónimos N

PLAZA DE D E L CALLE PLAZA A E del P A S E O D E L M A R Q U E S D E P O N T E J O S D E
MATUTE C A L L E JESUS Prado C A L L E D E L C A S A D O D E L A L I S A L S

D E V E G A S O
O
Real Academia de C A L L E L O P E D E A L A R C O N L A
la Historia E CALL E ALBER T O BOSCH Palacio de
Cristal
CANIZARES C A L L E C A L L E C A L L E D E L A S C/ DE H U E R T A S JESUS MAESTRO TELLERIA O X P A RQUE
CALLE DEL
DE
CALLE DE D E Antón CALLE DEL AMOR DE DIOS D E C/ DE SANTA POLONIA S A N T A M A R I A PLAZA DE PLAZA DE D PLAZA DE C A L L E D E E S P A L T E R I PUERTA DE MURILLO DEL R E P U B L I C A
I
C/
PLATERIA DE
MURILLO
E
ANTON
SAN JOSE
C A L L E D E L A M A G D A L E N A PLAZA DE Martín D E M O R A T I N SAN JUAN MARTINEZ L LA CHOPERA
MARTIN C A L L E D P A S E O DE
C A L L E D E L A A L A M E D A
A Cine R O J A S
CALLE
CALLE DE LA CABEZA M A R I DE ROSA Doré COSTANILLA DE LOS DESAMPARADOS F U C A R CALLE DE VERONICA E P A S E O PASEO C L E M E N T E RETIRO D E
CALLE DEL OLIVAR C A L LE D E L A V E O LMO C A L L E D E T O R R E C I L L AD E L L E A L PJE DORE A T O C H A C A L L E C A L L E D E D E L C A L L E D E S A N P E D R O D E G O B E R N A D O R Exhibition
L
CALLE DUQUE
F. NUNEZ

R
CALLE DE
C A L L E
SANSIMON
Centre
Caixaforum A
TRES PECES
JARDIN
El Angel Caído
D E L CALLE DE TRES PECES C/ DE LOS C A L L E CALLE DE SAN EUGENIO CALLE DE SAN BLAS A L M A D E N CENICERO P D J O S E BOTANICO C N U N E Z
A
R
O
L
Palacio de
C/ DE SAN CARLOS Fernán C A L L A G O M E Z MUTIS E F E R N A N
L
Z U R I T A
CALLE DE SAN ILDEFONSO
CALLE DE LA ESPERANZA B U E N A V I S T A Núñez C/ DEL MARQUES DE TOCA D E DEL D Q U E R D U Q U E D E
S A L I T R E
CALLE
O
C A L L E CALLE DE LA PRIMAVERA CALLE DE LA ESCUADRA D E D E CALLE DE SAN COSME Y SAN DAMIAN D E CALLE DE SANTA INES E A T O C H A C A L L E D E C L A U D I O M O Y A N O D P A S E O D E L MUNICIPALES
C A L L E
VIVEROS
E
C A L L E
D E L
D E
Convento de
PUERTA DEL
O L I VA R
C A L L E D E L A C A L L E F E C A L L E Santa Isabel S A N T A CALLE DEL DR MATA Ministerio de DOCTOR VELASCO A ANGEL CAIDO
L
PLAZA
PLAZA DE SANCHEZ PA S E O Agricultura F CALLE DEL POETA
LAVAPIES CALLE DEL DR DRUMEN Atocha O
Lavapiés CALLE DEL DOCTOR PIGA CALLE DEL DOCTOR FOURQUET HOSPIT AL I S A B E L BUSTILLO D E Atocha DEL N ESTEBAN VILLEGAS
PLAZA DEL
Museo
Museo
Nacional de
CARLOS V
O
Astronomico
C C A L L E DEL Nacional EMPERADOR L A CALLE Antropología S Observatorio C A L L E ANDRES TORREJON
A
D E Centro I N F A N T A CALLE DE JUAN VALERA
CALLE DE
L CALLE DE
CALLE
L S O M B R E R E R I A de Arte LUIS CAMOENS D E
E D C A L L E D E F O U R Q U E T A R G U M O S A Reina Sofía AVENIDA DE LA CIUDAD DE BARCELONA CALLE DE AGUSTIN QUEROL
X
DE MIGUEL SERVET E V A L E C A L L E D E L D O C T O R CALLE DE MALLORCA A T O C H A PASEO DE LAS DELICIAS MENDEZ ALVARO Estación de Atocha CALLE DE JUAN ANSELMO CLAVE J U L I A N C R I S T I N A
I
BAUTISTA SACCHETTI
I
I S A B E L
PASEO DE SANTA
ARGANZUELA
Renfe
Atocha
CALLE
Atocha Renfe
CALLE DE
DEL
CALLE DE JOSE
CALLE DE
ESPINO
CALLE AMPARO N C I A R O N D A D E DE LA VALDAVIA MARIA DE LA CABEZA CALLE DE TORTOSA P A S E O D E L A R E I N A G AYA R R E FUENTERRABIA
Real Fábrica
de Tapices
CALLE DEL MARQUES
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320  M ADRID

SHOPPING IN MADRID

Madrid is a shoppers’ paradise, with well- popular streets around the pedestrianized
known designer stores competing for Preciados and the Puerta del Sol, and
attention with small, creative shops. Madrid Calle de la Princesa and adjacent streets.
still has more independent and family-run The Salamanca district is host to designer
shops than most European capitals, so it brands as well as upmarket antiques, while
should not be hard to pick up some truly for the lat est streetware visit the Chueca
original gifts. There are two main shopping district. The colourful food markets dotted
hearts in the city – the crowded and around the city are well worth a visit.

Opening Hours Food and Drink for its selection of olive oils and
Most shops in Madrid are Madrid is a paradise for gourmet gourmet products. The depart­
open from 10am to 2pm and food shopping. Strongly scented ment store El Corte Inglés has its
5pm to 8:30pm Monday– saffron, matured ewe’s cheese own depart ment dedi cated to
Friday, though larger stores or a fruity extra­virgin olive oil gourmet delicacies, as well as a
tend to stay open during all make ideal gifts. Spain has a super market for more general
lunch and close at 10pm. deep­rooted tradition of pork groceries. There are smaller deli­
Small shops often close on products, ranging from whole catessens in nearly every district.
Saturday afternoon. Shopping hams to sausages of every In the Salamanca area, visit
centres, department stores shape and size. The best and Mantequerías Bravo, famous
and big shops are permitted most expensive ham is Ibérico, for its excellent cheeses, preserves
to open on Sundays, and the from the small, black­hoofed and sweets, and Gold Gourmet,
downtown shops around Iberian pig. In Old Madrid, with its selection of fresh produce,
Sol open on Sundays, too. branches of Museo del Jamón including edible flowers.
Many small shops close for have an enor mous range of If you are looking for good
a month (usually August) in Spanish hams, cheeses and cured wine, head to Bodega Santa
the summer. sausages. La Chinata is famous Cecilia, an outlet with a long
history of selling Spanish and
international wines. It also
organizes tasting sessions.
Lavinia, in the Salamanca
district, is said to be Europe’s
biggest wine shop, with more
than 1,500 brands available.
For a truly authentic madrileño
souvenir, try La Violeta, famous
for its fragrant violet sweets.

Markets
A favourite local activity is
shopping at the street, or flea,
markets, where you can spend
a pleasant few hours browsing
for antiques, second­hand
clothes, pottery, handicrafts
and furniture. Some markets are
focused on only one item, such
as the Sunday­morning stamp,
postcard and coin market under
the arches of Plaza Mayor, or the
Cuesta de Moyano at the
Atocha end of Paseo de Prado,
where stalls selling second­
hand books are set up daily. The
legendary El Rastro Sunday flea
market (see p306). is a must for
any visitor to Madrid, not only
for the variety of goods to be
The enticing frontage of the Museo del Jamón found, from antiques to trendy




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SHOPPING IN M ADRID  321


Portuondo, Cotanda, Codosero
and Theotokopoulos. There are
also opportunities for pricier
antique shopping along the
streets of the Prado, Santa
Catalina (Alcocer Anticuarios)
and Cervantes, near Plaza de
Santa Ana. In Madrid, art and
antiques auctions are held by
both Spanish and inter national
firms, including Durán, Goya,
Segre, Ansorena and Alcalá.
Shopping Centres and
Inside one of the many antique shops in the streets around El Rastro
Department Stores
garments, but also for its lively June, is an impres sive outdoor Among the best shopping
atmosphere. It gets really bookfair. Hun dreds of stalls are centres, or centros comerciales,
crowded from noon onwards, set up in the Parque del Retiro, are the tempting and expen sive
with bargain hunters rubbing and publishers and bookshop malls of the elegant Salamanca
shoulders with those out to owners exhibit their wares for neighbourhood. El Jardín
enjoy a pre-lunch apéritif at the two weeks, with book signings de Serrano is a high-quality
numerous bars of the La Latina taking place as well. galleria, housed in two restored
area. Be careful, however, as pick- On the Plaza de España, the 19th-century palaces that stocks
pockets frequent the market. Feria de Artesanos takes place fashion, jewellery, gifts and
The best place for paintings every December, selling all kinds accessories. ABC Serrano has
is the street market in Plaza del of crafts, making it ideal for a range of shops that includes
Conde de Barajas, near Plaza Christmas shopping. Throughout home furniture as well as
Mayor on Sunday mornings, December, the Plaza Mayor designer fashions and gifts.
organized by the art association is the venue for a traditional If you want more variety at
Taller Abierto. Christmas fair – the Mercado de a cheaper price, visit the huge
The colourful Mercado de Artículos Navideños, where fes- La Vaguada in the north, or
San Miguel in Plaza San Miguel tive bric-a-brac can be picked up. El Corte Inglés, a national insti-
offers an array of produce and tution with branches through-
delicious delicatessen items, out the city. The latter also has
including traditional cured meats Antiques and Arts a travel agency and offers
and Spanish cheeses. Mercado The commercial galleries and services such as photo develop-
de San Antón in Chueca, antiques shops of Madrid are all ment and shoe repairs. Also
Mercado de San Ildefonso in conveniently located along the good value for money are the
Malasaña or the trendy Platea streets of Serrano, Velázquez, shops in the Príncipe Pío
in Plaza de Colón are other Jorge Juán and Claudio Coello; shopping centre, located in
renovated markets with the in the Salamanca area, around the former Northern Railway
same mix of stalls and bars. Alonso Martínez; and on Doctor Station. Shops, restau rants and
Fourquet street behind the cinemas sit under the original
Museo Reina Sofía. For cutting- glass and iron roof.
Annual Fairs
edge Spanish art, head to the
February has become the Juana de Aizpuru gallery,
“art month” in Madrid, with considered to be one of Madrid’s
contem porary art fairs such top galleries for contemporary art.
as ARCO, Just Mad and Art Antique shops can also be
Madrid. Whether you want to found in El Rastro flea market,
buy or simply browse, these and mainly along Calle de la Ribera
other events provide a great de Curtidores. Antigüedades
opportunity to catch up on the Palacios sells collectors’ items
latest trends in the art world. such as furniture, paintings and
In the week prior to Madrid’s European ceramics. Also in El
Fiesta de San Isidro (see p44) Rastro, La Turmix is an artists’
which begins on 15 May, cooperative with workshops and
you can buy earthen cookware galleries (open weekends only).
and wine jugs at the Feria de la For specialist antique outlets –
Cerámica held in the Plaza de ranging from 18th-century
las Comendadoras in the lacquered furniture to Spanish
colourful district of Malasaña. paintings from the 16th to 18th Stall selling vintage posters in the busy
The Feria del Libro, held in May– centuries – visit Coll & Cortés, Rastro flea market




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322  M ADRID

Fashion Meermin. For trainers or other are widely avail able, though
The Spanish chain stores Zara, budget buys, visit the shops sometimes the more colourful
Mango and Bimba y Lola along Calle de Fuencarral. The pieces are from Morocco.
have become international well-heeled will also want to A wide choice of ceramics can
phenomena, offering easy-to- check out the range of shoe be found at Cántaro, near the
wear clothes for women at very outlets in the Chueca area, Plaza de España. Well stocked
good prices. Zara also caters to along Calle Augusto Figueroa. in regional styles, the shop
men and children. Both stores Spain undoubtedly produces also carries so-called “extinct”
have branches all over the city. some of the best-quality leather ceramics – traditional styles
For upmarket fashion there are in the world. The ultimate in of pottery no longer regularly
many well-known Spanish bags and leather goes under produced. Many shops around
designers, such as Purificacion the prestigious label of Loewe, Puerta del Sol stock
Garcia, who have their own whose products are sold all over embroidered tablecloths and
shops in Madrid, mainly in the the world. Another impressive shawls, but be aware that the
elegant Salamanca district or (and perhaps more budget- authentic pieces can be quite
on the Calle de Jorge Juan. friendly) national brand is expensive. The Spanish firm
Those in favour of a more Salvador Bachiller, where PeSeta makes artisanal fabric
unusual or original look should you will discover quality leather goods in their atelier.
try Ágatha Ruiz de la Prada’s and exclusively designed In the Plaza Mayor, adjoining
creations (for kids and adults). bags, suit cases, wallets and the Arco de Cuchilleros, is
For high-quality designer other accessories. El Arco Artesanías, which
menswear, check out Roberto sells handmade modern
Verino, Custo Barcelona or Spanish crafts, such as pottery,
Adolfo Domínguez. These Jewellery glassware and ironwork.
shops also offer women’s In Calle Serrano and Gran Vía For unique household
clothes. Another popular, you will find both small shops, decorations made by local
reasonably priced Spanish chain stacked with trays of gold studs, and European designers,
store for men is Springfield. chains and bracelets, and grand, head to El Moderno.
At the top end of the market more exclusive jewellers. Man-
is the Loewe store for men, made “Majorica” pearls, as well Books and Music
where a silk tie with a Spanish as the cultivated variety, can be
art motif makes a stylish gift. found all over the city, including The giant French-owned FNAC
The lively Chueca and at the high-end department book and video store has an
Malasaña districts are the best store El Corte Inglés. extensive selection of books
places for the latest in street- The innovative Catalan and magazines in English and
wear, with offbeat local designers Tous on Calle Serrano is other languages, as do Machado
and second-hand shops on popular among the young for and the Casa del Libro. A little
almost every corner. Some its ubiquitous teddy-bear logo. further afield, Booksellers stocks
outlets also sell inter national If you are interested in original, English classics, though only a
brands at reduced prices. If your simple designs, visit the limited selection of new books.
taste runs to vintage, do not acclaimed jeweller Joaquín The second-hand bookstalls of
miss the quirky Magpie store. Berao on Calle Lagasca. His the Mercado del Libro near the
shop resembles an art gallery Parque del Retiro are good for
devoted to tastefully designed cheap paperbacks and, some-
Shoes and Leather Goods pieces. For Spanish designs, visit times, rare volumes. The libraries
Madrid is a haven for those with Aristocrazy and the beautiful of the Círculo de Bellas Artes
a shoe fetish. You will find every atelier of Andrés Gallardo. (see p327) and the Museo Reina
type of shoe here, from the Museum shops are also a Sofía (see pp302–3) have a great
traditional espadrille sold at good place to shop for designer collection of books as well. Art
Antigua Casa Crespo to the jewellery. Look out for original books can be found at one of
popular Majorcan Camper pieces from Verili, sold at the the best specialist art book-
shoes. Try Pretty Ballerinas for main museums in the city. shops, Gaudí, near Chueca.
beautiful ballerina shoes and Uno de 50 sells unique silver For all types of music, go
pumps, while for sophis tication, and leather jewellery. to the FNAC or one of the
opt for the elegant Farrutx. If El Corte Inglés branches, either
you are looking for trendy leather Crafts and Design in Calle de Preciados or Paseo
goods, head to Malababa. Make de la Castellana.
a trip to Bravo for some of the Traditional crafts such as For flamenco enthusiasts, the
best national and international woven baskets or embroi dered specialist El Flamenco Vive
labels. Chic shoes, sandals and linen are hard to find in Madrid store on Calle del Conde de
handbags with an innovative and those that are available Lemos stocks a fantastic range
touch are available at Cristina often tend to be Asian of flamenco kit, including the
Castañer. For a classical look, imports. However, lovely widest selection of books,
try Carmina or the Majorcan and inexpensive ceramics guitars and CDs in the world.




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SHOPPING IN M ADRID  323


DIRECTORY
Food and Drink La Turmix Purificacion Garcia Aristocrazy
Calle López Silva 4. Map 4 Calle Serrano 28. Map 6 Calle Serrano 46.
Bodega Santa Cecilia D4. Tel 687 93 29 19. E5. Tel 914 35 80 13. Map 6 E4.
Calle Blasco de Garay 74. Tel 914 35 11 38.
Map 2 D1. Shopping Centres Roberto Verino ∑ aristocrazy.com
Tel 914 45 52 83. and Malls Calle Serrano 33. Map 6 Joaquín Berao
La Chinata ABC Serrano E4. Tel 914 26 04 75. Calle Lagasca 44.
Calle Mayor 44. Map 4 D2. Calle Serrano 61. Map 6 Springfield Map 6 E5.
Tel 911 52 20 08. Calle Fuencarral 107. Map Tel 915 77 28 28.
E2. Tel 915 77 50 31. 2 F3. Tel 914 47 59 94.
Gold Gourmet ∑ abcserrano.com One of several branches. Tous
Calle de José Ortega y El Corte Inglés Calle Serrano 50.
Gasset 85–89. Map 6 F3. Zara Map 6 E4.
Tel 914 02 03 63. Calle Preciados 1–3. Map Gran Vía 34. Map 4 F1.
4 F2. Tel 913 79 80 00. Tel 915 21 12 83. Tel 914 31 92 42.
Lavinia ∑ elcorteingles.es Uno de 50
Calle de José Ortega y One of several branches. Shoes and Calle Fuencarral 17. Map
Gasset 16. Map 6 F3. Leather Goods 5 A5. Tel 915 23 99 75.
Tel 914 26 06 04. El Jardín de Serrano
Calle Goya 6–8. Map 6 E4.
Mantequerías Bravo Tel 915 77 00 12. Antigua Casa Crespo Crafts and Design
C/ del Divino Pastor 29.
Calle de Ayala 24. Map 6 ∑ jardindeserrano.es Map 2 F4. Tel 915 21 56 54. El Arco Artesanías
E4. Tel 915 75 80 72.
Príncipe Pío Plaza Mayor 9. Map 4 E3.
Museo del Jamón Paseo de la Florida 2. Map Bravo Tel 913 65 26 80.
Carrera de San 3 A1. Tel 917 58 00 40. Calle Serrano 42. Map 6 ∑ artesaniaelarco.com
Jerónimo 6. Map 7 A2. ∑ ccprincipepio.com E4. Tel 914 35 27 29. Cántaro
Tel 915 21 03 46. One of several branches.
La Vaguada Calle de la Flor Baja 8.
La Violeta Avda Monforte de Lemos Camper Map 2 D5.
Plaza Canalejas 6. Map 7 36. Tel 917 30 10 00. Calle Fuencarral 42. Tel 915 47 95 14.
A2. Tel 915 22 55 22. ∑ enlavaguada.com Map 5 A5. Tel 915 31
23 47. ∑ camper.es El Moderno
Antiques and Fashion Carmina La Corredera Baja de
Arts Calle de Claudio San Pablo 19. Map 2 F5.
Adolfo Domínguez Tel 913 48 39 94.
Alcocer Anticuarios Calle Serrano 96. Map 6 Coello 73. Map 6 E3. PeSeta
Calle de Santa Catalina 5. E2. Tel 915 76 70 53. Tel 915 76 40 90. Calle Huertas 37. Map 7
Map 7 B2. One of several branches. Cristina Castañer B3. Tel 910 52 59 71.
Tel 914 29 79 19. C/ de Claudio Coello 51.
Ágatha Ruiz de la
Antigüedades Prada Map 6 E3. Tel 915 78 18 90. Books and Music
Palacios Calle Serrano 27. Map 6 Farrutx
Plaza General Vara del E4. Tel 913 19 05 01. Calle de Claudio Coello Booksellers
Rey 14. Map 4 E4. 22. Map 6 E3. Calle Fernández de la Hoz
Tel 915 27 31 70. Bimba y Lola Tel 916 40 20 11. 40. Tel 914 42 79 59.
Calle Serrano 22. Map
Codosero 6 E5. Tel 915 76 11 03. Malababa Casa del Libro
Calle de Lagasca 36. Map One of several branches. Calle Santa Teresa 5. Map Gran Vía 29. Map 4 F1.
6 F5. Tel 914 31 58 11. 5 B4. Tel 912 03 59 51. Tel 902 02 64 02.
Custo Barcelona ∑ casadellibro.com
Coll & Cortés Fuencarral 29. Map 5 A5. Meermin
Calle de Justiniano 3. Tel 913 60 46 36. Calle de Claudio Coello El Flamenco Vive
Map 5 B4. ∑ custo-barcelona.com 20. Map 6 E5. Calle del Conde de
Tel 913 10 05 82. Tel 914 31 21 17. Lemos 7. Map 4 D2.
Loewe Tel 915 47 39 17.
Cotanda Calle Serrano 34. Pretty Ballerinas
Calle de Lagasca 96. Map Map 6 E4. Calle de Lagasca 30. Map FNAC
6 F2. Tel 917 81 30 01.
Tel 915 77 60 56. 6 F4. Tel 914 31 95 09. Calle Preciados 28. Map 4
Juana de Aizpuru Magpie Salvador Bachiller E1. Tel 902 10 06 32.
Calle Barquillo 44. Map 5 Calle Velarde 3. Gran Vía 65. Map 2 D5. ∑ fnac.es
B5. Tel 913 10 55 61.
Map 2 F1. Tel 915 59 83 21. Gaudí
Portuondo Tel 914 48 31 04. Calle Argensola 13. Map 5
Calle Castelló 85. Mango Jewellery C4. Tel 913 08 18 29.
Tel 616 79 22 95.
Calle de Goya 23. Andrés Gallardo Machado
Theotokopoulos Map 6 E4. Conde de Romanones 5, Calle Marqués de Casa
Calle Alcalá 97. Map 8 F1. Tel 914 35 40 28. Patio. Tel 911 56 91 10. Riera 2. Map 7 B2.
Tel 915 75 84 66. One of several branches. ∑ andresgallardo.es Tel 913 10 17 05.
320-323_EW_Spain.indd 323 26/09/17 11:54 am

324  M ADRID

ENTERTAINMENT IN
MADRID

As a major European capital, Madrid takes Even traditional art forms, such as flamenco,
its arts and entertainment very seriously, bullfighting and Madrid’s version of the
hosting the finest and most diverse operetta, zarzuela, are characterized by
dance, music and theatre productions flamboyance and spectacle. Football is also
from around the world. Vibrant art, music a major draw, and Real Madrid is a hugely
and film festivals are held around the celebrated team. Between fiestas, flamenco,
year, supple mented by a pulsating nigh- football and much more, the revelry never
tlife, raucous street parties and lively cafés. stops in Madrid.

September to June. May’s Fiesta These venues are perfect places
de San Isidro, Madrid’s patron to relax and people­watch.
saint festival, and the Festival Especially popular areas for
de Otoño a Primavera, a music, terraceo (doing the rounds of
theatre and dance festival held various terraces) are Plaza de
from October to June, attract Santa Ana, Paja, Chueca and
many big Spanish and inter­ Dos de Mayo. The glamorous
national names. Tickets can be crowd often spend evenings
bought from Entradas.com or strolling down avenues,
Ticketea.com. such as Paseo de Recoletos and
In July and August, Madrid Rosales, stop ping now and then
hosts Veranos de la Villa to nip into a terrace bar or café.
(book through tourist offices), Madrid has retained many
a special programme that of its old grand cafés. El Espejo,
includes art exhibitions, jazz, a city landmark, is an excellent
Madrid’s Teatro Real (see p326) opera, flamenco, cinema and meeting place with its Art
drama at various venues. Nouveau ambience. Café del
Entertainment Guides Tickets for a number of Círculo de Bellas Artes, housed
Madrid’s entertainment guides events can be bought at FNAC in a cul tural foundation, is an
are mostly in Spanish. Guía del and El Corte Inglés stores and institution in itself. It is ideal for
Ocio, a handy weekly guide websites. Many other reliable coffee or lunch after spending
to what’s on in the city, comes internet sites also sell tickets. a day pur suing cultural interests.
out every Thursday and can Check the websites of venues Of the literary cafés, the famous
be bought from kiosks. Three too, since many of them offer Café Gijón (see p295) should
daily newspapers have enter­ online booking services. not be missed. For delicious
tain ment supplements on tea and cakes, visit Mamá
Friday: El Mundo, ABC and El País. Cafés, Bars and Terraces Framboise and Pomme Sucre
The English­language near Alonso Martínez.
monthly, InMadrid (www. Madrid’s social life revolves In the evening, it is almost
inmadrid.com), publishes around an endless array of cafés, essential to head to a taberna,
cultural listings and reviews bars and summer terraces. where you can order a ración,
of the latest bars and clubs.
It is available in bookshops,
record stores and Barajas
Airport information office.
Information on forthcoming
events can also be obtained
from one of the tourist infor­
mation offices in the city, where
English will be spoken. The
tourist board also publishes Es
Madrid, a free, bilingual brochure.

Seasons and Tickets
There is always something
going on in Madrid’s theatres
and stadiums, but the cultural
season is at its peak from Elegant Café Gijón, one of Madrid’s foremost literary salons




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ENTER T AINMENT IN M ADRID  325

Flamenco
Sundays and holidays); on days
when there are matches, times Although flamenco
vary. Tickets can be bought at origin ated in Andalucía
the box office and online with (see pp428–9), Madrid is
no need to book in advance. often seen as its spiritual home
Real Madrid’s rivals, Atlético and some of the best flamenco
de Madrid, are based at the dancers and musicians
Vicente Calderón stadium. regularly perform here. The
Exterior of the historic Café Gijón scene is sparklingly vibrant, and
interpretations of the art range
Dance
the more substantial version of from the traditional to the
tapas, and accompany it with a Madrid’s dance scene has come daringly innovative, inspired by
good local wine. Go for a taberna a long way in recent years, dancers such as Joaquín Cortés.
crawl and visit the the older and with international companies The big Suma Flamenca festival
most interesting establishments, and local talent performing is held every year in June.
such as Taberna Antonio regularly around the city. Most tablaos (flamenco
Sánchez, which is well-known Madrid is the home of Spain’s venues) offer drinks and dinner
for its history and the quality of prestigious Ballet Nacional de with the show. Sometimes,
its tapas. Bodega La Ardosa is España and the more contemp- however, the show may feature
popular with both tourists and orary Compañía Nacional de only singing and not the familar
locals, and Taberna Maceiras is Danza, for many years directed rhythmic dancing.
favoured for its Galician wines by the world -famous dancer Café de Chinitas and Corral
and other specialities. and chore og ra pher Nacho de la Moreria are among the
Duato. Víctor Ullate’s Ballet older and better tablaos in
de la Comunidad de Madrid town, but are somewhat
Bullfighting
presents a more avant- touristy. Also well worth a
Although bullfighting (see garde mix of classical and visit are La Taberna de Mister
pp40–41) remains controversial, contemporary dance. Pinkleton and Casa Patas.
it continues to thrive in Madrid. A good time to experience Mixed flamenco and pop
The Plaza de Toros de las Madrid’s rich dance tradition is bars such as Cardamomo
Ventas is the most important around April, when the annual are full of boisterous young
ring in the world, holding En Danza festival takes place. people, but are a fun way of
corridas every Sunday from Both Spanish and international experiencing the sound and
March to October. In May, dancers perform at this time feel of flamenco. Two bars that
during the Fiesta de San Isidro, in various theatres and other feature regular, spontaneous
there are corridas every day, venues in and around Madrid. performances are the
with some of the biggest names Two major venues hosting atmospheric Candela and
participating in the spectacle. dance are the Teatros del Las Tablas. Note that as these
The Las Ventas box office Canal and the Teatro Real places are frequented by local
is open on Fridays from 10am (where opera is usually flamenco aficionados, visitors
to 2pm and from 5pm to 7pm. performed). Smaller venues should be respectful of the art.
You can also purchase tickets such as La Casa Encendida Take into account that
from abroad through the and Cuarta Pared present although bars are fun and a
Taquilla Toros website, and alterna tive dance performances. good introduction to the art of
collect them at the box office Details can usually be found in flamenco, some of the best dance
up to two hours before the fight. the entertainment listings or on troupes, singers and players usu-
the individual venue’s website. ally perform at the city’s theatres.
Football
Madrid is very proud of its
team, Real Madrid (see p181),
and the players are celebrities
in Spain. With a capacity of
80,000, their home stadium
Santiago Bernabéu is one of the
greatest theatres of the game.
Tickets can be bought on the
phone, or through the team’s
official website.
For those wishing to visit
the stadium, guided tours are
conducted on Mondays and
Saturdays between 10am and
7pm (10:30am to 6:30pm on A male flamenco dancer performing at Casa Patas




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326  M ADRID

Classical Music, Opera Rock, Jazz and Theatre
and Zarzuela World Music
Madrid has a theatrical tradition
Madrid’s Auditorio Nacional Madrid’s music scene is that stretches back to the
de Música is home to Spain’s eclectic and energetic, Golden Age of the 17th century,
national orchestra, Orquesta mixing top international pop with writers such as Lope de
Nacional, as well as its national stars with independent local Vega and Calderón de la Barca
choir, Coro Nacional de España. bands performing at a variety creating a canon of work
With two concert halls, the of venues. Madrid’s increasingly that is still performed today.
auditorium also hosts many multicultural mix has ensured One of the most pres tigious
high-profile performances. an explosion of Latin American theatres in the city, the Teatro
The illustrious Teatro Real and African sounds recently, de la Comedia is traditionally
is best known as the home as well as interesting fusions home to the Compañía
of the city’s opera company. of both with more familiar Nacional de Teatro Clásico,
It also houses Orquesta Spanish sounds. In the which stages classic works
Sinfónica de Madrid, Spain’s 1980s, the heady days of la by Spanish playwrights.
oldest orchestra with a rich movida (see p309) gave birth Alternatively, take in a
history dating back to more to Spanish pop, and the repertory performance at
than a century. The magnificent momentum continues to this El Pavón Teatro Kamikaze.
Real is the best place to watch day with Madrid remaining Another one of the most
top-class international and the centre of the country’s highly regarded theatres is the
national opera performances. music scene. Teatro María Guerrero, which
Tickets for a show can be bought For rock music, Sala la presents Spanish modern
at a maximum of two weeks in Riviera, located next to the drama, as well as foreign plays.
advance by phone or from the Manzanares river, has an For contemporary and
website and can be collected excellent and well-deserved alternative theatre, Madrid
at the box office up to half an reputation. It has hosted major has a thriving network of fringe
hour before the show begins. international stars such as venues such as Cuarta Pared.
The Teatro Monumental is Bob Dylan, Patti Smith, the Teatro Español also puts on
the main venue for the excellent Cranberries and guitarist Joe excellent productions.
Orquesta Sinfónica y Coro de Satriani, among countless For musicals, try Teatro
RTVE, the orchestra and choir of others. Honky Tonk, in the Nuevo Apolo, Teatro Lope
Spain’s state television and radio Chamberí district, often has de Vega or Teatro Calderón.
company. The Centro Cultural performances from local bands, Other venues such as Teatro la
Conde Duque hosts classical so keep an eye out for posters Latina and Teatro Muñoz Seca
concerts among many other art advertising events, some of do comedy productions.
events. Fundación Juan March which are free. A wide range of Spanish
holds free classical concerts every Siroco has devoted itself to and international theatrical
Saturday morning (book online). discovering new alternative talent take part in the annual
Those who want to experi ence and indie bands, and also Festival de Otoño a Primavera
a Spanish, especially a madrileño, doubles as a club with live from October to June.
take on the operetta, should music performances.
definitely make time to see One of Europe’s best jazz Cinema
a zarzuela being performed. clubs, Café Central, with its
The origins of this lively form of Art Deco elegance, is one place Spanish cinema (see p196)
musical-drama-cum-social-satire that should not be missed. has earned great international
can be traced back to early 17th- Also popular is the lively El acclaim in recent years. For
century Madrid, and the tradition Junco jazz and blues venue. those with a grasp of the
is still going strong. With both Musicians from all over the language, Spanish film is a
spoken and sung parts as well as world and of a range of musical rewarding experience,
dancing, the zarzuela can be genres can be heard at El Sol. especially enjoyed at one
comic, ribald and even romantic. One of the most important of the grand film theatres
It is always enjoyable to watch. clubs of the Movida Madrileña along Gran Vía, such as Capitol,
The best productions are (see p309), El Sol is the only one which has screened films since
usually staged at the Teatro de la that continues to promote the the early 1900s.
Zarzuela. Other theatres also host underground style of music of Non-Spanish movies can
zarzuela perform ances occa sion- the 1980s. be seen in their original-
ally. Check listings for details. There are plenty of other language versions at Verdi,
Look our for details on free, well-reputed live-music Ideal, Golem and Renoir.
outdoor concerts in the papers. venues in the city. The best Screenings will be found
The Teatro Real normally opens way to keep abreast of the listed in newspapers and
the opera season with a live latest events is to check listings magazines. Note that
transmission of the first show out weekly listings and to tickets cost less on the día del
on massive video screens in keep an eye out for adverts espectador, which is usually
Plaza de Oriente. on the street. on Mondays or Wednesday.




324-327_EW_Spain.indd 326 10/11/2017 09:47

ENTER T AINMENT IN M ADRID  327


DIRECTORY
Tourist Offices Bullfighting Classical Music El Sol
Opera and Calle Jardínes 3. Map 7
Comunidad de Taquilla Toros Zarzuela A1. Tel 915 32 64 90.
Madrid Tourist Office ∑ taquillatoros.com ∑ salaelsol.com
Calle Duque de Las Ventas Auditorio Nacional
Medinacelli 2. Map 7 B3. Calle Alcalá 237. de Música Theatre
Tel 914 29 49 51. Tel 913 56 22 00. Calle del Príncipe de Cuarta Pared
Vergara 146.
Municipal Tourist ∑ las-ventas.com Tel 913 37 01 40. Calle del Ercilla 17.
Office Football ∑ auditorionacional. Tel 915 17 23 17.
Pl Mayor 27. Map 4 E3. mcu.es ∑ cuartapared.es
Tel 914 54 44 10. Atlético de Madrid Centro Cultural El Pavón Teatro
Estadio Vicente Kamikaze
Tickets Calderón, Paseo de la Conde Duque Calle de Embajadores 9.
Calle del Conde Duque
Virgen del Puerto 67. Map 4 E4.
El Corte Inglés Tel 902 26 04 03. 11. Map 2 D4. Tel 910 51 33 31.
Tel 902 40 02 22. ∑ atleticodemadrid. Tel 913 18 47 00.
∑ elcorteingles.com com Fundación Juan Teatro de la Comedia
Entradas.com Real Madrid March Calle del Príncipe 14. Map
7 A2. Tel 915 21 49 31.
Tel 902 48 84 88. Estadio Santiago Calle de Castelló 77. Teatro Español
Tel 914 35 42 40.
FNAC Bernabéu, Calle Concha ∑ march.es Calle Príncipe 25. Map 7
Tel 902 10 06 32. Espina 1. Tel 913 98 43 00. Teatro Calderón A2. Tel 913 60 14 84.
∑ fnac.es ∑ realmadrid.com
Calle Atocha 18. Map 4 Teatro la Latina
Ticketea Dance F3. Tel 914 29 40 85. Pl de la Cebada 2. Map 4
∑ ticketea.com D4. Tel 913 65 28 35.
La Casa Encendida Teatro de la Zarzuela
Cafés, Bars and Ronda de Valencia 2. Calle de los Jovellanos 4. Teatro Lope de Vega
Map 7 B2. Tel 915 24
Gran Vía 57. Map 4 E1.
Terraces Tel 902 43 03 22. 54 00. ∑ teatrodela Tel 915 47 20 11.
Teatros del Canal zarzuela.mcu.es
Bodega La Ardosa Calle Cea Bermúdez 1. Teatro María
Calle Colón 13. Map 5 A5. Map 3 B1. Teatro Monumental Guerrero
Tel 915 21 49 79. Tel 913 08 99 99. Calle Atocha 65. Map 7 Calle de Tamayo y Baus 4.
A3. Tel 914 29 12 81. Map 5 C5.
Café del Círculo de Flamenco Tel 913 10 29 49.
Bellas Artes Teatro Real
Calle Alcalá 42. Map 7 B2. Café de Chinitas Plaza de Isabel II. Map 4 Teatro Muñoz Seca
Tel 677 45 84 48. Calle Torija 7. Map 4 D1. D2. Tel 902 24 48 48. Plaza del Carmen 1. Map
∑ teatro-real.com
4 F1. Tel 915 23 21 28.
Café Gijón Tel 915 47 15 02.
Paseo de Recoletos 21. Candela Rock, Jazz and Teatro Nuevo Apolo
Map 7 C1. Calle Olmo 2. Map 7 A4. World Music Pl Tirso de Molina 1. Map
Tel 915 21 54 25. Tel 914 67 33 82. 4 F3. Tel 913 69 06 37.
Café Central
El Espejo Cardamomo Plaza del Ángel 10. Map 7 Cinema
Paseo Recoletos 31. Map Calle Echegaray 15. Map A3. Tel 913 69 41 43.
6 D5. Tel 913 08 23 47. 7 A2. Tel 918 05 10 38. ∑ cafecentral Capitol
Gran Vía 41. Map 4 E1.
Mamá Framboise Casa Patas madrid.com Tel 915 22 22 29.
Calle de Fernando VI 23. Calle Cañizares 10. Map 7 Honky Tonk
Map 5 B5. A3. Tel 913 69 04 96. Calle de Covarrubias 24. Golem
Calle de Martín de los
Tel 913 91 43 64. Corral de la Morería Map 5 B3. Heros 14. Map 1 A1.
Tel 914 45 61 91.
Pomme Sucre Calle de la Morería 17. El Junco Tel 915 59 38 36.
Map 3 C3.
Calle Barquillo 49. Map 5 Tel 913 65 11 37. Plaza Santa Barbara 10. Ideal
B5. Tel 913 08 31 85. C/ del Doctor Cortezo 6.
La Taberna de Map 5 B4.
Taberna Antonio Mister Pinkleton ∑ en.eljunco.com Map 4 F3. Tel 913 69 10 53.
Sánchez Calle de los Cuchilleros 7. Sala La Riviera Renoir
Calle de Mesón de Paredes Map 4 E3. Tel 913 64 Paseo Virgen del Puerto Calle de Martín de los
13. Map 4 F5. 02 63. ∑ latabernade s/n. Tel 913 65 24 15. Heros 12. Map 1 C5.
Tel 915 39 78 26. misterpinkleton.com Tel 915 42 27 02.
Siroco
Taberna Maceiras Las Tablas Calle de San Dimas 3. Verdi
Calle Huertas 66. Map 7 Plaza de España 9. Map 1 Map 2 E4. Calle Bravo Murillo 28.
B3. Tel 914 29 58 18. C5. Tel 915 42 05 20. Tel 915 93 30 70. Tel 914 47 39 30.
324-327_EW_Spain.indd 327 26/09/17 11:54 am

328  TR A VELLERS ’ NEEDS

Nightlife

Madrid’s reputation as the city that never sleeps persists, The “basements of Argüelles”
despite political measures for earlier closing times. In fact, are huge double­storeyed
people from Madrid are known as gatos (cats) around Spain patios with several bars and
because of their nocturnal habits. The best nightlife is concen­ disco theques. The atmosphere
is fresh and young.
trated around specific districts, each with its own unique Another popular district is
atmosphere and a wealth of places for people to get down Moncloa, which has a more
to one of Madrid’s best talents: la marcha (partying). Things mature crowd, as well as several
hot up first in the Huertas area, moving on to Malasaña, Bilbao, places where you can listen to
Lavapiés and Chueca into the early hours of the morning. local Spanish pop and dance
tunes, such as nightclub Lasal,
You don’t need to go to a club for dancing as madrileños also which is also a venue for concerts.
dance to DJs and live music in smaller clubs, called pubs –
all sorts of musical tastes are catered to more than amply Chueca
(see p326). Expect to find places crowded from Thursday to
Sunday. Also prepare for late nights because things don’t get The Chueca district dominates
going for gatos until midnight. Madrid’s gay scene. As well as
having a large resident gay
community, there are plenty
Santa Ana and Huertas
Friday and Saturday nights, taking of trendy late­night bars and
With many tapas bars, cafés the straight/gay mix of clubbers clubs where gays and non­gays
and terraces, the Huertas area through to 6am the next day. party together. In fact, what
is the perfect place to begin sets Chueca apart from other
preparing for the wild night Alonso Martínez gay neighbourhoods in the
ahead. The atmosphere is made world is the mezcla, the
by the crowd, which is a heady and Bilbao tolerant gay/straight mix.
amalgam of ages, looks and This is one of the city’s most The heart of the area is the
origins. If you want to stay in animated areas. You will find Plaza de Chueca, packed with
one area, this is a good choice. hundreds of great haunts that crowds visiting the terraces
There are several little bars play music ranging from in the summer. Close by are
overlooking the lively Plaza de R&B to Spanish pop. mixed bars such as Acuarela,
Santa Ana. Pop into any one of To begin with, try some of the with its camp, religious­artifact
them to begin the night. Viva local bars around Plaza de Santa decor. The Gay Pride Week in
Madrid attracts a viva cious Bárbara, such as the Cervecería late June or July focuses around
crowd of locals and foreigners. Santa Bárbara, the perfect place this area, though there are also
Cardamomo, a famous club, to start the night with a caña plenty of well­established gay
is a mandatory stop for any (beer). Later on (if you can get bars elsewhere in the city.
bar crawl. There is live flamenco past the queues), try the glamo­
at least once a week. rous club Alegoría, with its
For late­night dancing, try eclectic decor and pop music, Malasaña
the house DJs at Joy Madrid where you can dance until late Malasaña was the centre of
Discoteque. Near Atocha, you with the beautiful people, or la movida in the Madrid of
will find the spectacular seven­ El Junco, a dance and concert the 1980s (see p309), and still
floor Kapital, which features venue with the best jazz, funk has an alternative flavour that
every kind of music, and a and soul music in the capital. attracts many young bohemian
rooftop bar that allows drinkers Alternatively, you can head for types. The hub of this cosmo­
to gaze at the starlit sky. Sol y Teatro Barceló, formerly known politan district is the Dos de
Sombra is a posh nightclub, so as Pacha, one of Madrid’s most Mayo square, where you can
dress to impress the bouncers, famous disco theques. There are have a caña on the terrace of
and you can get your groove also plenty of live­music venues the El 2D bar. However, the
on to live soul and R&B. around, such as Clamores, one characteristic atmosphere of
It is a local tradition to end of Madrid’s many temples of the area is changing rapidly into
the night with hot chocolate jazz music. However, note that a more design­driven space.
and churros (dough sticks) in areas such as Huertas are more Some examples are the La
one of the cafés around Plaza active during weekdays. Huida, El Circo de las Tapas
del Sol. The Chocolatería San and Kike Keller bars, which
Ginés is a great place for choco­ have cultivated a revolutionary,
late gorging: it’s open 24 hours. Argüelles and Moncloa arty atmosphere. Bar & Co is
If the chocolate fix leaves you This area is a favourite haunt of a typical Malasaña venue, where
buzzing, check out students, thanks to its prox imity local bands play weekly. You
Independance Club, which to the halls of residence of one can relax there after 3am if
plays indie and pop rock on of Madrid’s major universities. you don’t feel like clubbing.




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Eyewitness Travel LAYERS PRINTED:
Practical template “UK” LAYER
(Source v1.6)
Date 7th January 2013
Size 125mm x 217mm

ENTER T AINMENT IN M ADRID  329


Tupperware, a fusion of past endearingly eccentric bar El selection of champagnes and
and present, is a rock bar with Gato Verde offers exhibitions cavas, surrounded by books
an ultra pop decor, where you and, on occasion, live music. and antiques. Afterwards, you
can also listen to garage, indie can dance until late at Berlín
and pop music. Cabaret, a modern nightclub
La Latina
that runs a 1930s cabaret
Still the best district in town for every night.
Lavapiés
cosy little hideaways and tapas
Once the Jewish quarter of bars, La Latina is an especially
Madrid, the narrow streets of good place to go on Sundays Azca
Lavapiés are rich with an eclectic after wandering around the With a skyline punctuated by
mix of races and cultures. One of Rastro flea market (see p306). the highest buildings, this is
the most fascinating and diverse For an excellent cocktail, or one of the most modern areas
districts in town, the locals’ old coffee and cake in the morning, in town. Near the Paseo de
habit of sitting outside their head to Delic, and for a cultural la Castellana and the Santiago
doors on summer nights experi ence try Anti Café, where Bernabéu stadium, this finan cial
continues, as does the you can listen to unique DJs, district has a multitude of clubs
multiracial crowd on the terraces poetry and drama. For a taste and bars doing brisk business
of Calle de Argumosa. A vibrant of the traditional, visit Taberna in basements.
fusion of artists, immigrants, Almendro 13, a classic from If visitors feel the urge to
hipsters and squatters results before La Latina became a dance, Avenida de Brasil is the
in some of the most brilliant fashion able nightlife area. stretch to head for, full of large
music, art, food, alternative Another worth while bar is clubs, though they tend to be
theatre and nightlife in the city. Taberna del Tempranillo, a little overcrowded.
La Escalera de Jacob and which also serves a variety of Nearby, in the Chamartín area,
La Victoria hold concerts, Spanish wines, cheeses and you will find another hardcore
theatre performances and ham. In the exquisite María clubbing scene, which vibrantly
intercultural workshops. The Pandora bar, you can try a unfolds late at night.
DIRECTORY
Nightlife Venues Cervecería Santa La Huida Sol y Sombra
Bárbara Calle Colón 11. Map 5 A5. Calle de Echegaray 18.
El 2D Plaza Santa Bárbara 8. Tel 600 87 05 09. Map 7 A3.
Calle Velarde 24. Tel 913 19 04 49 Tel 619 23 58 02.
Map 2 F4. Chocolatería Independance Club
Plaza de Callao 4. Map 4
Tel 914 48 64 72. Taberna Almendro 13
San Ginés E1. ∑ independance Calle Almendro 13.
Acuarela Pasadizo de San Ginés, club.com Map 4 D3.
Calle Gravina 10. Calle Arenal 11. Joy Madrid Tel 913 65 42 52.
Map 5 B5. Map 4 E2. Discoteque
Tel 913 65 65 46. Taberna del
Tel 915 22 21 43. Calle Arenal 11. Map 4 E2.
Clamores Tel 913 66 54 39. Tempranillo
Alegoría Calle Alburquerque 14. Calle de la Cava Baja 38.
Calle Villanueva 2. Map 5 A3. El Junco Tel 913 64 15 32.
Map 6 D5. Tel 914 45 54 80. Plaza de Santa Bárbara 10.
Tel 915 77 27 85. Map 5 B4. Teatro Barceló
Circo Tel 913 19 20 81. Calle de Barceló 11.
Anti Café Calle Corredera Baja de Kapital Map 5 A4.
Calle Unión 2. San Pablo 21. Calle Atocha 125. Map 7 Tel 914 47 01 28.
Map 4 D2. Map 2 F5. C4. Tel 914 20 29 06.
Tel 915 41 76 57. Tupperware
Delic Kike Keller Calle Corredera
Bar & Co Plaza De La Paja s/n. Calle Corredera Baja Alta de San Pablo 26.
Calle Barco 34. Map 4 D3. de San Pablo 17. Tel 625 52 35 61.
Map 2 F5. Tel 915 31 77 54. Tel 913 64 54 50. Tel 915 22 87 67.
La Escalera de Jacob Map 2 F5. La Victoria
Berlín Cabaret Calle de Lavapíes 11. Calle Santa Isabel 40.
Costanilla de San Pedro 11. Map 4 F4. Lasal Map 7 B4.
Calle Guzmán el Bueno
Tel 913 66 20 34. Tel 625 72 17 45. 98. Tel 686 41 09 90. Tel 915 28 64 57.
Cardamomo El Gato Verde María Pandora Viva Madrid
Calle De Echegaray 15. Calle Torrecilla del Leál 15. Plaza Gabriel Miró 1. Calle Manuel Fernández
Map 7 A3. Map 7 A4. Map 3 B3. González 7.
Tel 918 05 10 38. Tel 693 82 98 97. Tel 910 42 82 13. Tel 914 20 35 96.



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M ADRID  331
MADRID PROVINCE


Madrid province (the Comunidad de Madrid) Close by is the Valle de los Caídos, the war
sits high on Spain’s central plateau. There monument erected by Franco. The smaller
is plenty of superb scenery and good royal palace of El Pardo is on the outskirts
walking country in the sierras to the north, of Madrid, and south of the city is the
which are a refuge for city dwellers who go 18th-century summer palace of Aranjuez,
there to ski in winter or cool down dur ing set in lush parkland. Historic towns include
the torrid summers. In the western foothills Alcalá de Henares, which has a Renaissance
of these mountains stands El Escorial, the university building, and Chinchón, where
royal palace-cum-monastery built by taverns cluster around a picturesque arcaded
Felipe II, from which he ruled his empire. market square.

Sights at a Glance
Towns and Cities Mountain Ranges
2 Buitrago del Lozoya 1 Sierra Norte
7 Manzanares el Real 4 Sierra Centro de Guadarrama Key
9 Alcalá de Henares
0 Chinchón Madrid city
Historic Buildings Madrid province
3 Monasterio de Santa María Motorway
de El Paular Major road
5 Santa Cruz del Valle de los Caídos Minor road
6 El Escorial pp334–5
8 Palacio de El Pardo 0 kilometres 25
q Palacio Real de Aranjuez 0 miles 20

Sights in Madrid Province N110 Burgos
A1
Valladolid Montejo de
la Sierra
Segovia
S i e r r a d e G u a d a r r a m a
M604
N110
AP61
AP6 Cercedilla N320 Zaragoza
N110
AP51 M607 San Agustin
Ávila Guadarrama M607 del Guadalix R2 A2
Torrelodones A1
El Escorial A6 Alcobendas Guadalajara
A2
M50
Madrid-
Barajas
M50 MADRID Alcalá de Henares
M600
M501 M40 R3 M300
Móstoles Getafe
lberche Arganda Tajuña
del Rey
N403 A A5 R5 Parla A4 Valdemoro A3
Guadarrama CM41 AP41 M404 A3 Tajo
A5 Yuncos R4 Aranjuez
A42
Talavera A40 AP41 Ocaña
de la Reina Torrijos Tarancón
A40
A4
N400 N301
Toledo
Córdoba
Snow-covered peaks of the Sierra Centro de Guadarrama For keys to symbols see back flap
330-331_EW_Spain.indd 331 26/09/17 11:02 am

332  M ADRID


The church of Santa María del
Castillo, dating from the 14–15th
century, has a Mudéjar tower and
ceilings which were moved here
from the old hospital. The town
hall (ayuntamiento), in the newer
part of Buitrago, preserves a
16th-century pro cessional cross.
In the base ment is the Museo
Picasso. The prints, drawings and
cera mics were collected by the
artist’s friend, Eugenio Arias.
E Museo Picasso
Plaza de Picasso 1. Tel 91 868 00 56.
Closed Mon, Sun pm. ∑ madrid.
The village of Montejo de la Sierra in the Sierra Norte org/museopicasso
1 Sierra Norte of the sierra is the village of
Patones, which is thought to
Madrid. @ Montejo de la Sierra.
n Calle Real 64, Montejo, 91 869 have escaped invasion by the
70 58. ∑ sierradelrincon.org Moors and Napoleon’s troops
because of its isolated location.
The black slate hamlets of the
Sierra Norte, which were once 2 Buitrago del
known as the Sierra Pobre
(Poor Sierra), are located in the Lozoya
most attractively rural part of Madrid. * 2,000. @ n Calle Tahona
Madrid province. 19, 91 868 16 15. Open Castle: 10am–
At Montejo de la Sierra, the 1pm & 4–6pm Tue–Fri, 10am–2pm
largest village in the area, an Sat–Sun, 4–7pm Sat. ( Sat. _ La
information centre organizes Asunción and San Roque (15–16 Aug),
riding, the rental of traditional Cristo de los Esclavos (14–15 Sep).
houses (see p559), and visits to Altarpiece in the Monasterio de Santa
the nearby nature reserve of the Picturesquely sited above a María de El Paular
Hayedo de Montejo de la Sierra. meander in the Río Lozoya is 3 Monasterio de
This is one of the most southern the walled town of Buitrago
beech woods (see p84) in Europe, del Lozoya. Founded by the Santa María de
and a relic of a previous era, Romans, it was fortified by the El Paular
when climatic conditions here Arabs, and became an import-
were more suitable for the beech. ant market town in medieval Southwest of Rascafría on M604.
From Montejo, you can drive on times. The 14th-century Gothic- Tel 918 69 19 58. @ Rascafría.
Open 11am–1:30pm & 4–7pm
to picturesque hamlets such as Mudéjar castle is in ruins, daily (Nov–mid-Apr: to 6pm). 8
La Hiruela or Puebla de la Sierra, al though the gatehouse, arches obligatory. Closed some public hols.
both in lovely walking country. and stretches of the original ∑ monasteriopaular.com
The drier southern hills slope Arab wall have survived. The
down to the Embalse de Puentes castle is open to the public. Founded in 1390 as Castile’s first
Viejas, a reservoir where summer The town walls retain a Carthusian monastery, Santa
chalets cluster around artificial charming atmos phere and María de El Paular stands on the
beaches. On the eastern edge can be visited for a fee. site of a medieval royal hunting
lodge. Although it is mainly
Gothic in style, Plateresque
and Renaissance features were
added later. The monastery was
aban doned in 1836, when gov-
ern ment minis ter Mendizábal
ordered the sale of church goods
(see p67). It fell into disrepair
until its restoration in the 1950s.
Today the complex comprises a
working Benedictine monastery,
church and private hotel.
The church’s delicate alabas ter
Buitrago del Lozoya, standing next to the river altarpiece, attributed to Flemish
For hotels and restaurants in this area see p569 and pp593–4


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M ADRID PROVINCE  333


craftsmen, dates from the 15th
century. Its panels depict scenes
from the life of Jesus. The lavish
Baroque camarín (chamber),
behind the altar, was designed
by Francisco de Hurtado in
1718. The cloister has impressive
paintings by Vicente Carducho.
Every Sunday, the monks sing
an hour-long Gregorian chant. If
they are not busy, they will show
you the cloister’s Mudéjar brick
vaulting and double sun-clock.
The monastery is a good
starting point for exploring the
towns of Rascafría and Lozoya.
To the south west is the nature
reserve Lagunas de Peñalara.
4 Sierra Centro
de Guadarrama
Madrid. £ Puerto de Navacerrada,
Cercedilla. @ Navacerrada, Cercedilla.
n Cuartel 1, Navacerrada, Cercedilla,
918 42 85 04.
∑ sierraguadarrama.info
The central section of the Sierra
de Guadarrama was little visited
until the 1920s, when the area
was linked by train to Madrid.
Today, the granite slopes are
planted with pines and specked
by holiday chalets. Villages such The gigantic cross at Valle de los Caídos
as Navacerrada and Cercedilla
have grown into popular resorts 5 Santa Cruz del (see pp70–71). The vast
for skiing, mountain-biking, rock Valle de los Caídos cross is located some 13 km
climbing and horse riding. (8 miles) north of El Escorial
Walkers wanting to enjoy the North of El Escorial on M600. (see pp334–5), and dominates
mountain air can follow marked Tel 91 890 54 11. @ from El Escorial. the surrounding countryside.
routes from Navacerrada. Open Crypt: 10am–6pm Tue–Sun; Some Spanish people find it
(Apr–Sep: 10am–7pm). Closed some
The Valle de la Fuenfría, a pub hols. & (free from 3pm Wed & Thu too chilling a symbol of the
nature reserve of wild forests, for EU citizens; from 4pm Apr–Sep). dictatorship to be enjoyable,
is best reached via Cercedilla. while for others its sheer size
It has a well-preserved stretch General Franco had the Holy is rewarding.
of the original Roman road, as Cross of the Valley of the Fallen The cross is 150 m (490 ft)
well as several picnic spots and built as a memorial to those high and rises above a basilica
marked walking routes. who died in the Civil War carved 250 m (820 ft) deep
into the rock by prisoners. A
number of them died during
the 20-year-plus project. Access
to the cross is currently closed
to visitors for safety reasons.
Next to the basilica’s high
altar is the plain white tomb-
stone of Franco, and, opposite,
that of José Antonio Primo de
Rivera, founder of the Falange
Española Party. A further 40,000
coffins of soldiers from both
sides in the Civil War lie here
out of sight, including those
Navacerrada pass in the Sierra de Guadarrama of two unidentified victims.




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334  M ADRID

6 El Escorial

Felipe II’s imposing grey palace of San Lorenzo de El Escorial
stands out against the foothills of the Sierra de Guadarrama
to the northwest of Madrid. It was built between 1563 and
1584 in honour of St Lawrence, and its unornamented severity
set a new architectural style, known as Herreriano, which
became one of the most influential in Spain. The interior
was conceived as a mausoleum and contemplative retreat
rather than a splendid residence. Its artistic wealth, which
includes some of the most important works of art of the
royal Habsburg collections, is concentrated in the museums,
chapterhouses, church, royal pantheon and library. In contrast, . Royal Pantheon
the royal apartments are sober, with incongruous interiors. The funerary urns of
Spanish monarchs line the
marble mausoleum.
KEY
1 Patio de los Reyes Main entrance
2 The Alfonso XII College was
founded by monks in 1875 as a
boarding school.
3 Bourbon Palace
4 Architectural Museum
5 Sala de Batallas
6 The Basílica’s altarpiece is
the highlight of this huge decorated
church. The chapel houses a superb
marble sculpture of the Cruci fixion
by Cellini.
7 The Royal Apartments, on the
second floor of the palace, consist of
Felipe II’s modestly decorated living
quarters. His bedroom opens directly
onto the high altar of the basilica.
8 The Patio de los Evangelistas
is a temple by Herrera. The Jardín
de los Frailes makes a nice walk.
9 The Monastery was
founded in 1567, and has been
run by Augustinian monks
since 1885.








Entrance to
Basilica only

. Library
This impressive array of 40,000 books
incorporates Felipe II’s personal
collection. On display are precious
manuscripts, including a poem by
Alfonso X the Learned. The 16th-century
ceiling frescoes are by Tibaldi.
For hotels and restaurants in this area see p569 and pp593–4


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M ADRID PROVINCE  335


. Museum of Art VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
One of the highlights here
is The Calvary, by Practical Information
15th-century Flemish artist Avenida de Juan de Borbón y
Rogier van der Weyden, Battemberg. Tel 91 890 59 03.
which has been restored Open 10am–8pm Tue–Sat (Oct–
by the Prado museum. Mar: to 6pm). Closed 1 & 6 Jan,
1 May, 10 Aug, 8 Sep, 24, 25 &
31 Dec. & (free from 3pm Wed
& Thu for EU res; from 5pm Apr–
Sep). 5 10am Tue–Fri, 7pm
Sat, 10 & 11am, noon, 1 & 7pm
Sun. 8 - =
∑ patrimonionacional.es
Transport
£ C8 from Atocha, Chamartín &
Sol. @ 661, 664 from Moncloa.












The Glory of the Spanish
Monarchy by Luca Giordano
This beautiful fresco, above the
main staircase, depicts Charles V
and Felipe II, and scenes of the
building of the monastery.

















Chapterhouses
On display here is Charles
V’s portable altar. The
ceiling frescoes depict
monarchs and angels.
The Building of El Escorial
When chief architect Juan Bautista de
Toledo died in 1567, he was replaced
by Juan de Herrera, royal inspector of
monuments. The plain architectural style
of El Escorial is called desornamentado,
literally, “unadorned”.




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336  M ADRID


portico and fine capitals. Behind designs by Goya (see p310).
the town, bor dering the foothills Today the palace hosts visiting
of the Sierra de Guadarrama, is heads of state and royal guests.
La Pedriza, a mass of granite Surrounding the palace and the
screes and ravines, very popular 18th-century village of El Pardo
with climbers. It now forms part is a vast forest of holm oak. The
of an attractive nature reserve. area is popular for picnicking,
and game animals still run free.
Environs
Colmenar Viejo, 12 km (7.5 miles)
southeast of Manzanares, has a
Gothic-Mudéjar church.

8 Palacio de
El Pardo
Climber resting on a rock face of La Pedriza, El Pardo, northwest of Madrid off the
near Manzanares el Real A6. Tel 91 376 15 00. @ 601 from
Moncloa. Open Oct–Mar: 10am–6pm
7 Manzanares daily; Apr–Sep: 10am–8pm daily
el Real Closed for royal visits & public hols.
& (free from 3pm Wed & Thu for EU
Madrid. * 7,200. @ n Calle del residents; from 5pm Apr–Sep).
Cura, 918 53 00 09. ( Tue & Fri. ∑ patrimonionacional.es Façade of Colegio de San Ildefonso in
_ Fiesta de Verano (early Aug),
Cristo de la Nave (14 Sep). Alcalá de Henares
∑ manzanareselreal.org This royal hunting lodge and 9 Alcalá de Henares
palace, set in parkland just
The skyline of Manzanares el outside Madrid’s city limits, Madrid. * 204,000. £ @ n Plaza
Real is dominated by its restored lists General Franco among its de los Santos Niños s/n, 918 81 06 34.
15th-century castle. Although former residents. A tour takes ( Mon, Wed. _ Feria de Alcalá
the castle has some traditionally visitors round the moated (late Aug). 8 weekend city tours.
military features, such as double palace’s Habsburg wing and the ∑ turismoalcala.es
machicolations and turrets, it identical 18th-century extension,
was used mainly as a residence designed by Francesco Sabatini. At the heart of a modern
by the Dukes of Infantado. The Bourbon interior is heavy industrial town is one of Spain’s
Below the castle is a 16th- with frescoes, gilt mouldings most renowned univer sity
century church, a Renaissance and tapestries, many made to quarters. Founded in 1499 by


























Lavish 18th-century tapestry inside the Palacio de El Pardo
For hotels and restaurants in this area see p569 and pp593–4


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M ADRID PROVINCE  337


Cardinal Cisneros, Alcalá’s
university became one of the
foremost places of learning in
16th-century Europe. The most
historic college, San Ildefonso,
survives. Former students include
Golden Age playwright Lope de
Vega (see p294). In 1517 the uni-
versity produced Europe’s first
poly glot bible, with text in Latin,
Greek, Hebrew and Chaldean. Chinchón’s unique porticoed Plaza Mayor
Alcalá’s other sights are the
cathedral, the Casa-Museo monastery, which has been by the Bour bons. A guided tour
de Cervantes, birthplace of converted into a parador with a takes you through numerous
the Golden Age author, and the peaceful patio garden. A ruined Baroque rooms, among them
restored 19th-century neo- 15th-century castle is on a hill to the Chi nese Porcelain Room,
Moorish Palacio de Laredo. the west of town. Although it is the Hall of Mirrors and the
closed to the public, there are Smoking Room, modelled on
E Casa-Museo de Cervantes views of Chinchón and the the Alh ambra in Granada. It is
Calle Mayor 48. Tel 91 889 96 54. countryside from outside it. worth visiting Aranjuez to walk
Open 10am–6pm Tue–Sun. Closed Chinchón is a popular week- in the 3 sq km (1 sq mile) of
some public hols. end destination for madrileños, shady royal gardens which
who come here to sample the inspired Joaquín Rodrigo’s
excellent chorizo and locally Concierto de Aranjuez. The
0 Chinchón produced anís (see p581) in Parterre Garden and the
the town’s many taverns. Island Garden survive from the
Madrid. * 5,300. @ n Plaza Mayor
6, 91 893 53 23. ( Sat. _ Semana original 16th-century palace.
Santa (Easter Week), San Roque (12–18 q Palacio Real Between the palace and the
Aug). 8 ∑ ciudad-chinchon.com River Tagus is the 18th-century
de Aranjuez Prince’s Garden, decorated with
Chinchón is arguably Madrid Plaza de Parejas, Aranjuez. Tel 91 891 sculptures, fountains and lofty
province’s most picturesque 07 40. £ @ Open Tue–Sun. Closed trees from the Americas. In the
town. The 15th- to 16th- some public hols. & (free from 3pm garden is the Casa de Marinos
century, typically Castilian, Wed & Thu for EU residents; from 5pm (Sailors’ House), a museum
porticoed Plaza Mayor has a Apr–Sep). 7 8 ∑ patrimonio housing the launches once used
splendidly theatrical air. It nacional.es by the royal family for trips along
comes alive for the Easter the river. At the far end of the
passion play, acted out by the The Royal Summer Palace and garden is the Casa del Labrador
townspeople (see p294), and Gardens of Aranjuez grew up (Labourer’s Cottage), a decorative
during the August bullfights. around a medieval hunting royal pavilion built by Carlos IV.
The 16th-century church, lodge standing beside a natu ral The town’s restaurants are
perched above the square, weir, the meeting point of the popular for the exceptional
has an altar painting by Goya, Tagus and Jarama rivers. quality of their asparagus and
whose brother was a priest Today’s palace of brick and strawberries. In summer, a
here. Just off the square is the white stone was built in the 18th 19th-century steam train, built
18th-century Augustinian century and later redecorated to carry strawberries, runs
between here and the capital.
Miguel de Cervantes
Miguel de Cervantes Saavedra, Spain’s greatest
literary figure (see p38), was born in Alcalá
de Henares in 1547. After fight ing in the
naval Battle of Lepanto (1571), he was
held captive by the Turks for more
than five years. In 1605, when
he was almost 60 years old, the
first of two parts of his comic
masterpiece Don Quixote (see
p399) was published to popular
acclaim. He continued writing
novels and plays until his death
in Madrid on 23 April 1616, the
same date that Shakespeare died.
Gardens surrounding the Royal Palace at
Aranjuez




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Date 15th November 2012
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Central


spain





Introducing Central Spain 340–349

Castilla y León 350–381
Castilla–La Mancha 382–403
Extremadura 404–417

















































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340  CENTR AL SP AIN

Introducing Central Spain

Much of Spain’s vast central plateau, the meseta, is covered
with wheat fields or dry, dusty plains, but there are many
attractive places to explore. Central Spain’s mountains,
gorges, forests and lakes are filled with wildlife. A deep sense
of history permeates the towns and cities of the tableland,
reflected in some stunning architecture: the Roman ruins
of Mérida, the medieval mansions of Cáceres, the Gothic
cathedrals of Burgos, León and Toledo, the Renaissance
grandeur of Salamanca, and castles almost everywhere.

León Cathedral (see pp358–9), an
outstanding Gothic building, was
completed during the 14th century.
As well as many glorious windows
of medieval glass, it has superb Cistierna
carved choir stalls depicting biblical Oña
scenes and everyday life. Ponferrada León
Sahagún
Astorga
Burgos
CASTILLA Y LEÓN
Puebla de (See pp350–81)
Sanabria
Benavente Palencia
Aranda de Soria
Peñafiel Duero
Valladolid
Zamora
Tordesillas
Salamanca (see pp362–5)
is the site of some of the
finest Renais sance and Medinaceli
Plateresque architecture Salamanca Arévalo Sigüenza
in Spain. Among the Segovia Maranchón
city’s most notable
buildings are the
university, its façade a Ciudad Rodrigo Ávila MADRID Guadalajara
mass of carved detail;
the old and new cathe-
drals (built side by side); Béjar Madrid Cañaveras
and the handsome Plaza Getafe
Mayor, built in warm
golden sandstone. Plasencia Aranjuez Cuenca
Talavera Tarancón
de la Reina
Navalmoral de
la Mata Toledo
CASTILLA-LA MANCHA
(See pp382–403)
Cáceres Alarcón
Trujillo
Consuegra San Clemente
EXTREMADURA
(See pp404–17)
Herrera del Ciudad Tormelloso
Badajoz Duque Real Manzanares Albacete
Mérida Almagro
Valdepeñas
Puertollano
Zafra Hellín
Museo Nacional de Arte Romano
in Mérida (see pp414–15) houses Llerena
Roman treasures. The city has a well- 0 kilometres 50
preserved Roman theatre still in use.
0 miles 50
Historic city of Toledo, Castilla-La Mancha
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INTRODUCING CENTR AL SP AIN  341

Burgos Cathedral (see pp376–7) is the
work of some of the great medieval
architects and artists, and it is full of
treasures from all periods. This Baroque
fresco of the coronation of the Virgin
covers the domed ceiling of the sacristy.













Cistierna
Oña Segovia (see pp368–9) extends along a rocky spur that
Ponferrada León divides two rivers. The city’s landmarks are the Alcázar (see
pp348–9) – a castle with distinctive fairy-tale towers – and
Sahagún
Astorga the Roman aqueduct, built in the 1st century AD, which
Burgos towers 29 m (95 ft) above a busy urban square.
CASTILLA Y LEÓN
Puebla de (See pp350–81)
Sanabria
Benavente Palencia
Aranda de Soria
Peñafiel Duero
Valladolid
Zamora
Tordesillas
Medinaceli
Salamanca Arévalo Sigüenza
Maranchón
Segovia
Ciudad Rodrigo Ávila MADRID Guadalajara
Madrid Cuenca’s Old Town (see pp388–9) was
Béjar Cañaveras built on a ridge high above two gorges.
Getafe One of the picturesque but precariously
sited “Hanging Houses” is now home to
Plasencia Aranjuez Cuenca a museum of abstract art.
Talavera Tarancón
de la Reina
Navalmoral de
la Mata Toledo
CASTILLA-LA MANCHA
(See pp382–403)
Cáceres Alarcón
Trujillo
Consuegra San Clemente
EXTREMADURA
(See pp404–17)
Herrera del Ciudad Tormelloso
Badajoz Duque Real Manzanares Albacete Toledo Cathedral
(see pp396–7), with its
Mérida Almagro exuberant sculptured
Valdepeñas decor ation, is a great
Puertollano medieval building in
Zafra Hellín a city of monu ments.
Toledo’s architectural
Llerena wealth stems from a
fusion of Jewish, Christian
and Muslim cultures.


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The Flavours of Central Spain

Madrid is famous for its extremes of temperature – a climate that
has given rise to the rueful local saying “nine months of winter and
three months of hell”. The surrounding regions suffer the same
extremes, and their traditional cuisines reflect both the wintry
cold and the dusty, scorched terrain. Meat predominates as
roasts and stews and in warm ing soups, thickened with beans
and pulses, which thrive despite the weather. Cured hams,
spicy sausages and pungent cheeses are excellent accompaniments Manchego cheese
to the strong local wine. The finest ham is from Extremadura, where
black-footed (pata negra) pigs forage freely among the oaks.
Castilla y Leon
particularly when it comes
to pork, and Madrid menus Spread out high on a plain,
may feature brains, ears, searingly hot in summer, and
pigs’ trotters, and callos a la bitingly cold in winter, Castilla
madrileña (tripe) is a classic y León is famous for its roasted
local dish. Sturdy stews, meats, served in asadores
such as the celebrated cocido (grillhouses). The most cele­
madrileño, keep out the brated local dish is cochinillo
bitter winter cold. The tapeo – (suckling pig), but pork,
a bar crawl between tapas chicken, game in season and
bars – is an institution in the lamb are also popular. These
city, and each bar has its own are often combined with local
speciality dish. pulses and lentils in hearty
White (butter)
Pinto beans beans Castillian
A chef preparing gambas al ajillo, a garbanzos Red (kidney)
popular tapas dish (chickpeas) beans
Black
Madrid beans
Restaurants in Madrid, as
befits the Spanish capital, offer
cuisine from every corner of
the country. Curiously, con­
sidering its distance from the
ocean, the capital is famed for
its seafood, flown in freshly Armuña lentils
every day. Madrileños appreciate
every part of an animal, Beans and pulses, key ingredients in the cooking of Central Spain
Regional Dishes and Specialities
The cuisine of Spain’s often wild and remote interior is
characterized by warming soups and stews; traditionally
made hams, cured meats and cheeses; plenty of filling
beans and pulses; and flavourful fruit and vege­
tables. On the high plains of Castilla y León,
locals keep out the winter cold with succulent
roasted meats, and Extremaduran ham is
the best you’ll taste. In Don Quixote
country, a glass of robust local wine and a
chunk of Manchegan cheese is sheer
delight. Fancy restaurants with fashion able
food are few and far between, but welcoming,
Fresh figs
old­fashioned inns offer simple and tasty home Cocido Madrileño This rich stew
cooking. Madrid, of course, is the exception: here is traditionally eaten in stages:
you’ll find every possible cuisine, along with excellent seafood, first the broth, then vegetables
which is harder to find anywhere else in this landlocked region. and finally the meat.





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Extremadura
Wild, beautiful Extremadura
sees few visitors and, in many
places, life continues virtually
untouched by the 21st century.
Endless rolling fields dotted
with holm oak shelter the
acorn-fed, black-footed pigs
that make Spain’s most highly
prized hams (jamón Ibérico).
Thanks to the deeply rooted
hunting tradition, partridge,
Plucking the stamens from crocus flowers to make saffron hare and wild boar regularly
feature on local menus along
soups and stews, which are a ratatouille-like dish made with river fish such as tench
given extra flavour with local with a range of tasty, fresh local and trout. There are some
embutidos (cured meats). The vegetables. The Arabs brought delicious cheeses, as well as
region also produces de licious with them saffron, which is still perfumed local honey and
cheeses such as soft Burgos, grown around Consuegra, and wonderful fruit, particularly
often served with honey, their influence also lingers on cherries, peaches and figs.
membrillo (quince jelly) or in Toledo’s famous marzipan
nuts for dessert. Local wines sweets and the fragrant Alajú On the Menu
are robust and simple, a good almond soup from Cuenca.
accompaniment to the strong Chocolate con Churros
flavours of the regional cuisine The typical Spanish breakfast –
of Castilla y León. thick hot chocolate with sugary
strips of fried batter for dipping,
originated in Madrid.
Castilla-La Mancha Cochinillo The speciality of
This is Don Quixote country: Segovia: 21-day-old suckling
empty, flat, dusty and scattered pig, roasted until so tender it
with windmills. Local inns and can be cut with a plate.
taverns serve traditional country Gazpacho Manchego Some-
cooking, with plenty of hearty times called a galiano, this is a
soups, substantial casseroles rich stew traditionally made
and simply grilled local meat, with hare and partridge.
poultry and seasonal game. Macarraca Extremaduran salad
Manchegan gazpacho, unlike of chopped ripe tomatoes with
its cold, vegetable-soup peppers, onion and garlic.
andaluz namesake, is a hefty Tortilla de Patata A simple
stew made with whatever potato omelette, now a staple
meat is available. A common Cured hams hanging in an in restaurants all over Spain.
accompaniment to it is pisto, embutidos shop














Albóndigas Meatballs – sturdy Migas Extremeñas Crumbs of Yemas A delicious treat from
and comforting country fare country bread are fried up with Ávila, these lemony, custardy
from the high plain of Castilla peppers, pork and chorizo or cakes are made with egg yolks
y León. cured sausage. and sugar.






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Wines of Central Spain

The wines of Central Spain originate in either the small,
high-quality regions of northwest Castilla y León or in the
vast wine-producing plains of La Mancha and Valdepeñas.
Ribera del Duero has become Spain’s most fashionable red
wine region, with its aromatic, rich yet fine reds made
from Tinto Fino grapes (the local name for Tempranillo)
and, more recently, lighter, fruity wines. Rueda makes
a good white wine, made from the Verdejo grape. La Harvesting Viura grapes at Rueda
Mancha and Valdepeñas both produce lots of simple
white wine, and reds which can be mellow and fruity.
Villafranca
del Bierzo Cacabelos León A67
Ponferrada
A231 A231
A66 CASTILLA Y LEÓN
A6
A52
Palencia Arlanzón
Benavente A1
Cigales
Aranda de Soria
Valladolid Duero
Toro makes the Zamora Toro N122
most powerful Duero Peñafiel Duero
and fiery of all A62 Rueda
red wines from A66
the ubiquitous Salamanca A6
Tempranillo grape. Segovia
A62 A50 A1 A2
Artesian well for irrigating vines in La Mancha Ciudad Ávila Tajo
Rodrigo MADRID Guadalajara
A66 Madrid
Key Facts about Wines of Central Spain
Méntrida Arganda
Location and del Duero wines and occasionally Plasencia Talavera A5 Colmenar de Oreja Cuenca
Climate surfaces as a single varietal, as Coria de la Reina Aranjuez A40
Ribera del Duero, at the estate of the Marquis of A66 Tajo
Rueda and Toro Griñón in Méntrida. Verdejo, Viura A5 Toledo A4 A3
are all high-lying areas with and Sauvignon Blanc are used EXTREMADURA
extreme climates – very hot for white Rueda. The white Airén CASTILLA-LA MANCHA
summer days com bined with grape predominates in the Cáceres Trujillo Alcázar de San Juan AP36
cool nights, and cold winters. vineyards of Valdepeñas and A31
The marked difference of temper- La Mancha. Ciudad Guadiana A4 Tormelloso
ature between day and night Real A43 A43 Júcar
helps to preserve the acidity in Good Producers Manzanares Albacete
A31
the grapes. Both La Mancha and Toro: Fariña (Gran A41 Valdepeñas Almansa
Valdepeñas are extremely hot Colegiata). Rueda: Puertollano
and dry areas. In recent years, Álvarez y Diez, Los Santa Cruz
droughts have caused a severe Curros, Marqués de de Mudela Hellín
shortage of grapes, though 2013 Riscal, Sanz. Ribera del Duero:
saw more rain and a better yield. Alejandro Fernández (Pesquera),
Boada, Hermanos Pérez Pascuas
Grape Varieties (Viña Pedrosa), Ismael Arroyo
The Tempranillo (Valsotillo), Vega Sicilia, Victor
grape – also known Balbás. Méntrida: Marqués de
as Tinto Fino, Tinto Griñón. La Mancha: Fermín
del Toro and Cencibel Ayuso Roig (Estola), Vinícola de Traditional earthenware tinaja, still
– produces nearly all the best red Castilla (Castillo de Alhambra). used for fermenting wine
wines of Central Spain. Cabernet Valdepeñas: Casa de la Viña,
Sauvignon is per mitted in some Félix Solís, Luis Megía (Marqués
regions; it is used in some Ribera de Gastañaga), Los Llanos. 0 kilometres 100
0 miles 50



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Vineyard near Moral de Calatrava in Valdepeñas
Villafranca Pesquera is made
del Bierzo Cacabelos León A67 by Alejandro
Ponferrada Fernández, the Key
second most
A231 A231 notable producer Bierzo
A66 CASTILLA Y LEÓN in the Ribera del Cigales
A6
A52 Duero region, after Toro
Palencia Arlanzón Vega Sicilia.
Benavente A1 Rueda
Cigales Ribera del Duero
Aranda de Soria
Valladolid Duero Vinos de Madrid
Zamora Toro N122
Peñafiel Méntrida
Duero
Duero
Rueda La Mancha
A62
Valdepeñas
A66
Salamanca A6 Almansa
Segovia
A62 A50 A1 A2
Ciudad Ávila Guadalajara Tajo
Rodrigo MADRID
A66 Madrid
Marqués de Griñón
Méntrida Arganda is an intense Cabernet
Plasencia Talavera A5 Colmenar de Oreja Cuenca Sauvignon wine with a
Coria de la Reina Aranjuez
A40 deep colour, made on
A66 A5 Tajo Toledo a vast estate outside
A3 Toledo. Although offic­
EXTREMADURA ially a vino de mesa
A4
CASTILLA-LA MANCHA
Cáceres Trujillo (see p581), its quality is
Alcázar de San Juan AP36 A31 as high as a DO wine.
Guadiana Tormelloso
Ciudad A4 A43 Júcar
Real A43
Manzanares Albacete
A31
A41 Almansa
Puertollano Valdepeñas
Santa Cruz
de Mudela Hellín
Wine Regions
The wine regions of Ribera del Duero, Toro and Rueda are situated on Señorío de los
remote, high plateaus, straddling the Río Duero. To the northwest lies Llanos is produced
the isolated region of Bierzo, whose wines have more in common with in Valdepeñas. Its
neighbouring Valdeorras in Galicia. Some wine is produced around fine reds – made
Madrid, and southwest of the capital is the largely undistinguished from Cencibel
region of Méntrida. Most of Central Spain’s wine is produced in La (Tempranillo) and
Mancha – the world’s largest single wine region – and in the smaller aged in oak – are
enclave of Valdepeñas, which produces a great deal of vino de mesa. of excellent value.
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Birds of Central Spain

The vast and varied wild habitats of Central Spain are
home to the richest avifauna in the peninsula. White storks’
nests are a common sight on the church towers and
chimneypots of towns. Grebes, herons and shovelers can
be seen in the marshlands; the distinctive hoopoe is often
spotted in woods; and grasslands are the nesting grounds
of bustards and cranes. The mountains and high plains are Migration Routes
the domain of birds of prey such as the imperial eagle, Cranes
peregrine falcon and vultures. Deforestation, changing Storks
agricultural practices and hunting have all taken their toll Raptors
in recent decades. Today, almost 160 bird species are the Wildfowl
subject of conservation initiatives.



















Marshland and Wet Meadow Woodland and Scrub
Wetlands, such as Lagunas de Ruidera (see p401), Habitats in areas of woodland, such as the Parque
on the edge of the plains of La Mancha, are vital Nacional de Cabañeros (see p391), and scrub support
feeding grounds for a wide range of waterfowl, many species, such as rollers and woodpeckers,
some of which may remain in Spain throughout throughout the year. Food is plentiful and there are
the year. Other migratory species use such sites as many places to roost and nest. Early in the morning
stopover points to feed, rest and build up enough is the best time for spotting some of the rarer
energy to enable them to complete their journeys. species, such as the bluethroat.

Little egrets are Rollers are commonly
recognized by found in woodland,
their snow-white often nesting in tree
plumage and stumps or holes left by
graceful slow woodpeckers. Their food
flight. They feed includes grasshoppers,
largely on frogs, crickets and beetles.
snails and small fish.

Shovellers feed on the water surface
with a characteristic shovelling
motion. The male has brightly Hoopoes can be easily
coloured identified by their striking
plumage but plumage and by the crest
the female is which can be raised if the
a dull brown. bird is alarmed. They feed
on ground insects.






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Storks
Both the white and the (much rarer) black stork breed
in Spain. They can be recognized in flight by their slow,
steady wingbeats and may occasionally be seen soaring
on thermals, usually during migrations. During
the breeding season they put on elaborate
courtship displays, which involve “dancing”,
wing-beating and bill-clapping. Their large
nests, made of branches and twigs and
lined with grasses, are constructed on
roofs, towers, spires and chimneypots,
where they are easy to watch. They feed on
insects, fish and amphibians. Stork populations
are threatened by wet land reclamation and
The endangered the use of pesticides.
black stork Nesting on a monastery roof



















Grassland and Field Mountain and High Plain
Many of Spain’s natural grasslands have been Some of Spain’s most spectacular birds of prey live
ploughed over to plant cereals and other crops. in mountain ranges, such as the Sierra de Gredos
Remaining vestiges are rich in (see p366), and the high plains of Central Spain. The
wild grasses and flowers and broad wingspans of eagles and vultures allow them
are vital habitats for species to soar on currents of warm air as they scan the
such as bustards and larks. ground below for prey and carrion.
Cranes perform elegant Imperial eagles, with
courtship dances and are also their vast wingspan
stately birds in flight, their long of 2.25 m (7 ft), are
necks extended to the limit. extremely rare – only
They are omnivores, feeding around 300 pairs are left
on amphibians, crustaceans, in the whole of Spain.
plants and insects.




Great bustards Griffon vultures, a
nest in shallow gregarious species, nest in
depressions formed trees and on rocky crags,
in open grassland and often using the same place
cultivated fields. Spain from year to year. Their
is home to half of the broad wingspans can
world’s population. exceed 2 m (6 ft).






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The Castles of Castile

The greatest concentration of Spain’s 2,000 castles is
in Castilla y León (now part of Castile), which derived
its name from the word castillo, or castle. In the 10th
and 11th centuries this region was the battleground
between Moors and Christians. Villages and towns
were fortified as protection against one side or the
other. Most of the surviving castles in Castile,
however, were built as noble resi dences after the
area had been reconquered and there was no longer Coca Castle (see p369), a classic Mudéjar
a military purpose for them. Fernando and Isabel design in brick
(see pp60–61) banned the building of new castles at
the end of the 15th century; many existing ones were Patio de armas
converted to domestic use. (courtyard)
Bartizan
turrets

The Torre de
Juan II contained
the dungeons.










La Mota Castle (see p370), at Medina del
Campo, near Valladolid, was origin ally a
Moorish castle but was rebuilt after 1440
and later became the property of
Fernando and Isabel. The square-shaped
Torre del Homenaje has twin bartizan
turrets at its corners and machicolations
beneath its battlements. Great curtain
walls surround the castle.







The barbican, with the
coat of arms of the Catholic
Monarchs carved over the
gate, contains the portcullis
and guards’ watchrooms.
Belmonte Castle (see p398) was built in
the 15th century as the stronghold of the
quarrelsome Marquis of Villena, Juan
Pacheco. Late Gothic in style, it has a
sophisticated, hexagonal ground plan,
with a triangular bailey.






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Date 18th October 2012
Size 125mm x 217mm