(DK Eyewitness) Travel Guide - Spain

THE C ANAR Y ISLANDS  549


i Tour of Cruz de Tejeda

Gran Canaria’s mountainous interior makes for an ideal
day tour, from any part of the island. Choose a fine day
or the views may be obscured. The route from
Maspalomas leads through dry ravines of bare rock and
cacti, becoming more fertile with altitude. Roads near
the central highlands snake steeply through shattered,
tawny crags, past caves and pretty villages to panoramic
viewpoints from which you can see Mount Teide (see
pp542–3) on Tenerife. On the north side, the slopes are White farmhouses en route to Teror
much lusher, growing citrus fruits and eucalyptus trees.
Artenara 2
One of the inhabited Las Palmas
caves in this town houses
a little church. Another
has been converted into
an unusual restaurant,
the Mirador La Cilla. Valleseco

J Lanzarote
Teror 1
This charming old
J
town has many well-
• preserved, typical
Pinar de Cuevas Canary Island houses.
Tamadaba J Corcho Its church, Nuestra
Señora del Pino, is
dedicated to Gran
Canaria’s patron saint.
Key
J
Tour route Pico de las Nieves 4
Other roads Tejeda A meteorological
station crowns Gran
Canaria’s highest peak.
At 1,949 m (6,395 ft), it is
often chilly up here and
it sometimes snows, so
take extra clothing.
J J Telde

0 kilometres 2 Ayacata J
0 miles 1
Maspalomas
Tips for Drivers
Tour length: 35–45 km
Roque Nublo 3 (22–28 miles).
This 60-m- (195-ft-) high Stopping-off points: Cueva del
jagged spike of basalt Molino restaurant in Artenara is a
tops a 1,700-m (5,578-ft) popular lunch spot (tel 928 66 62
peak. To gether with 27, closed Mon). Note: roads can
nearby Roque Bentayga, be narrow with few passing places;
it was sacred to the sudden patches of cloud or mist
Guanches. It’s a stiff may loom without warning.
climb to the summit.

For keys to symbols see back flap


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550  SP AIN ’ S ISLANDS

Fuerteventura

Lying just 100 km (60 miles) off the Atlantic coast of
Morocco, leaf-shaped Fuerteventura is continually battered
by coastal winds – no doubt why every summer the island
hosts the Windsurfing & Kiteboarding World Cup. It is the
second largest of the Canary Islands after Tenerife, and
the most sparsely populated: its 69,500 inhabitants are
outnumbered by goats. The island used to be densely
wooded, but European settlers cut down the timber for ship-
building; the dry climate (so dry, water has to be shipped
over from the mainland) and the goats have since reduced
the vegetation to parched scrub. The only significant revenue A herd of goats near the airport
is tourism, with visitors having more than 150 splendid on Fuerteventura
beaches to choose from. The island is popular with water-
sports fans and naturists alike. pinks and ochres. The richness
of colour in this interior
wilderness is at its most striking
o Península de p Betancuria at sunset.
Jandía Las Palmas. * 740. @ n Calle Juan Betancuria, built in a valley
Las Palmas. @ Costa Calma, Morro de Bethancourt 6, 928 87 80 92. surrounded by mountains in the
centre of the island, is named
Jable. g (jetfoil) from Gran Canaria. _ San Buenaventura (14 Jul), after Jean de Béthen court,
n Centro Comercial Cosmo, Bajo, Romería de La Peña (3rd Sat of Sep). Fuerteventura’s 15th-century
928 54 07 76.
Inland, rugged peaks of extinct conqueror, who moved his capital
Excellent beaches of pale sand volcanoes, separated by wide inland to thwart pirates. Nestling
fringe the Jandía Peninsula in plains, present a scene of in the moun tains, this peaceful
the south of Fuerteventura. austere grandeur. Scattered, oasis is now the island’s prettiest
A string of urbanizaciones stark villages and obsolete village. The Iglesia de Santa María
(residential developments) now windmills occupy the lowlands, contains gilded altars, decorated
takes up much of the peninsula’s which are occa sionally fertile beams and sacred relics. The
shel tered east coast (Sotavento). enough to nurture a few crops Museo Arqueológico houses
Costa Calma, a burgeoning or palm trees. Beyond, devoid of many local artifacts.
cluster of modern complexes, vegetation, the hills form stark
offers the most interesting outlines. From a distance they Environs
beaches with long stretches appear brown and grey, but To the south, the village of
of fine sand interrupted by low up close the rocks glow with Pájara boasts a 17th-century
cliffs and coves. Morro Jable, a an astonishing range of mauves, church with a curiously
fishing village now swamped by decorated doorway. Its design
new developments, lies at the of serpents and strange beasts
southern end of a vast, glittering is believed to be of Aztec
strand. Beyond Morro Jable, in fluence. Inside, the twin aisles
the access road dwindles away both contain statues: one of a
into a potholed track leading radiant Madonna and Child in
towards the lonely lighthouse white and silver, the other a
at Punta de Jandía. Virgen de los Dolores in black.
Expanses of deserted sand, La Oliva, to the north, was
accessible only by four-wheel the site of the Spanish military
drive vehicle, line the westerly, headquarters until the 19th cen-
windward coast (Barlovento) – tury. The Casa de los Coroneles
too exposed for all but the (House of the Colonels) is a faded
hardiest beach-lovers. Some yellow mansion with a grand
of the island’s best subtropical façade and hundreds of
marine life can be found in this windows. Inside it has coffered
area, however, making it popular ceilings. The fortified church
with skin divers. and the arts centre displaying
From 1938 to the early 1960s, works of Canary Island artists
Jandía belonged to a German are also worth a visit.
entrepreneur and was out of
bounds to locals. Even today, E Museo Arqueológico
rumours of spies, submarines and The gilded interior of the Iglesia Santa Calle Roberto Roldán. Tel 928 85 14
secret Nazi bases still circulate. María in Betancuria 00. Open Tue–Sat. & 7
For hotels and restaurants in this region see p575 and pp604–5


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THE C ANAR Y ISLANDS  551

a Caleta de Fuste
Las Palmas. * 1,600. @ n Calle
Juan Ramón Soto Morales 10,
El Castillo, 928 16 32 86. ( Sat.
_ Día del Carmen (16 Jul), Nuestra
Señora de Antigua (8 Sep).
South of Puerto del Rosario
about halfway down the
eastern coast, lies Caleta de
Fuste. The attractive low-rise,
self-catering holiday centres
surround a horseshoe bay of
soft, gently shelving sand. The
largest complex, El Castillo, Fishing boats on a beach on the Isla de Lobos, near Corralejo
takes its name from an 18th-
century watchtower situated by s Puerto del Rosario rechristened to smarten up its
the harbour. Las Palmas. * 16,500. k @ g image in 1957. The only large
There are many water-sports n Avenida Marítima s/n, 928 85 port on Fuerteventura, Puerto
facilities, including diving and 01 10. _ El Rosario (7 Oct). del Rosario is the base for inter-
windsurfing schools, as well as ∑ turismo-puertodelrosario.org island ferries and a busy fishing
the Pueblo Majorero, an attrac- industry. The town is also
tive “village” of shops and Fuerteventura’s administrative enlivened by the presence of
restaurants around a central capital was founded in 1797. the Spanish army, which occu-
plaza near the beach. These Originally known as Puerto de pies large barracks once used by
features make Caleta de Fuste Cabras (Goats’ Harbour), after the Spanish Foreign Legion.
one of Fuerteventura’s most a nearby gorge that was once
relaxed and pleasant resorts. used for watering goats, it was
d Corralejo
The Guanches Las Palmas. * 7,200. g n Avenida
Marítima 16, 928 86 62 35. ( Mon &
When Europeans first arrived in the Canary Islands Fri. _ Día del Carmen (16 Jul).
in the late 14th century, they discovered a tall, ∑ corralejograndesplayas.com
white-skinned race, who lived in caves and later
in small settlements around the edges of barren This much-expanded fishing
lava fields. Guanche was the name of one tribe village is now (together with
on Tenerife, but it came to be used as the the Jandía Peninsula) one of
European name for all the indigenous tribes on the island’s two most impor tant
the islands, and it is the one that has remained. resorts. Its main attraction is a
The origins of the Guanches are still unclear, belt of glorious sand dunes
but it is probable that they arrived on the stretching to the south, resem-
islands in the 1st or 2nd century BC from
Berber North Africa. Within 100 years of bling the Sahara in places,
European arrival the Guanches had been and protected as a nature
subdued and virtually exterminated by reserve – a designation that
the ruthless conquistadors. Very few traces arrived too late to prevent the
of their culture remain today. construction of two hotels
right on the beach.
The rest of the resort, mostly
consisting of apartments and
hotels, spills out from the town
Reminders of the centre. The port area is lively,
Guanches can be seen with busy fish restaurants and
in many places in the an efficient 40-minute ferry
Canaries. Specimens service to Lanzarote.
of their mummified Offshore is the tiny Isla de
dead, as well as Lobos, named after the once
baskets and stone abundant monk seals (lobos
and bone artifacts, marinos). Today, scuba divers,
are on display in snorkellers, sport fishers and
several museums and Guanche bowl for pre paring surfers claim the clear waters.
there are statues of Glass-bottomed cruise boats
chiefs in Candelaria gofio (see p541) take less adventurous
(see p539) on Tenerife. A Guanche basket excursionists to the island for
barbecues and swimming trips.




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552  SP AIN ’ S ISLANDS

Lanzarote the clear, warm sea laps into
rocky coves, and clothes seem
The easternmost and fourth largest of the Canary Islands is superfluous. Playa de Papagayo
virtually treeless and relies on desalination plants for some of its is the best known of these, but
water. Yet many visitors consider Lanzarote the most attractive a diligent search will probably
of all the islands for the vivid shapes and contrasting colours of gain you one all to yourself.
A four-wheel-drive vehicle
its volcanic landscapes. Despite low rainfall, carefully tended is advisable to negotiate the
crops flourish in its black volcanic soil. Locals pride themselves narrow, unsurfaced roads
on the way their island has been preserved from the worst which lead to these beaches.
effects of tourism; there are no garish billboards, overhead The underwater Museo
cables or high-rise buildings. Its present-day image owes Atlántico combines art and
conservation. Jason deCaires
much to the artist César Manrique. Touring the spectacular Taylor’s dramatic installations act
volcanic Timanfaya National Park is a favourite trip. as an artificial reef, and visitors
share the statues with banks
of sardines and octopuses.
E Museo Atlántico
Puerto Marina Rubicón, Calle el
Berrugo 2. Tel 928 51 73 88. Open
10am–5pm Mon–Fri (diving: to 4pm).
& ∑ cactlanzarote.com/cact/
museo-atlantico/

g Parque Nacional
de Timanfaya
Las Palmas Yaiza. n Carretera LZ–67,
km 11.5, Mancha Blanca, 928 11 80 42.
Wind turbines harnessing Lanzarote’s winds for power Open daily. &
f Playa Blanca family-oriented place with some From 1730 to 1736, a series of
character. It has plenty of cafés volcanic eruptions took place
Las Palmas. * 4,500. @ g n Calle
Varadero 3, 928 51 90 18. _ Nuestra and restaurants, shops and bars, on Lanzarote. Eleven villages
Señora del Carmen (16 Jul). and several large hotels. However, were buried in lava, which
∑ turismolanzarote.com the buildings are well dispersed eventually spread over 200 sq km
and the resort is rarely noisy at (77 sq miles) of Lanzarote’s most
The fishing village origins of this night. Visitors converge here fertile land. Miraculously, no one
resort are readily apparent around not for nightlife or contrived was killed, though many
its harbour. Although it has entertainment, but for relaxing islanders emigrated.
expanded in recent years, Playa beach holidays. There are one or Today, the volcanoes that
Blanca remains an agreeably two good stretches of sand near once devastated Lanzarote pro-
to the town, but the most entic- vide one of its most lucrative
ing lie hidden around the rocky and enigmatic attractions, aptly
headlands to the east, where known as the Montañas del
César Manrique (1919–92)
Local hero César Manrique trained as a
painter, and spent time in mainland Spain
and New York before returning to
Lanzarote in 1968. He campaigned
for traditional and environ-
mentally friendly development
on the island for the
remaining part of his life,
setting strict building height
limits and colour requirements.
Dozens of tourist sites
throughout the Canaries
benefited from his talents
Las Coloradas beach near Playa Blanca in and enthusiasm. César Manrique in 1992
southern Lanzarote
For hotels and restaurants in this region see p575 and pp604–5


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THE C ANAR Y ISLANDS  553


lined promenades, a fine beach
and two small forts. Castillo San
Gabriel offers lovely views from
a mezzanine, accessed via a stone
walkway over the sea, crossing
the Puente de Bolas. It also houses
the Museo de Historia de Arrecife.
The 18th-century Castillo de San
José is now a museum of con-
tem po rary art and was renovated
faithfully to the original interior
The dramatic volcanic landscape of the Parque Nacional de Timanfaya by César Manrique. One of his
paintings is on display here.
Fuego (Fire Mountains). They are kilometres along the seafront.
part of the Parque Nacional de The coastal road carves its + Castillo San Gabriel
Timanfaya, established in 1974 way through a solid slab of Puerto de Naos. Tel 928 80 28 84.
to protect a fascinating and holiday infrastructure, which Open 9am–1pm Mon–Fri.
important geological record. The is pleasantly designed and + Castillo de San José
entrance to the park lies just unoppressive, and offers easy Puerto de Naos. Tel 928 81 23 21.
north of the small village of Yaiza. access to a long golden beach, Open daily. Closed 1 Jan, 25 Dec.
Here you can pause and take a Playa Blanca, which in places is
15-minute camel ride up the very wide. Another beach k Costa Teguise
volcanic slopes for wonderful nearby is Playa de los Pocillos.
views across the park. Afterwards, To the north is the quaint 10 km (6 miles) north of Arrecife.
you pay the entrance fee and village of Tías and A Casa José @ n Avenida Islas Canarias, Junto
drive through haunting scenery Saramago, the house-cum- Pueblo Marinero, 928 59 25 42.
of dark, barren lava cinders museum where the Nobel ∑ turismolanzarote.com
topped by brooding red-black Prize-winning writer (1922–
volcano cones. Finally, you will 2010) lived his last 18 years in This resort, largely financed by
reach Islote de Hilario. You can exile after the Portu-guese a mining conglomerate, has
park at El Diablo panor amic government deemed his work transformed the arid, low-lying
restaurant. From here, buses religiously offensive. terrain north of Arrecife into an
take visitors for exhil arating extensive cluster of time-share
30 minute tours of the desolate, j Arrecife accommodation, leisure clubs
lunar-like landscapes. and luxury hotels. The contrast
Afterwards, back at Islote de Las Palmas. * 46,900. k @ between old town Teguise (see
Hilario, guides will provide n Calle Triana 38, 928 81 17 62. p554), Lanzarote’s former capital,
graphic demonstrations that this _ San Ginés (25 Aug). and the exclusive Costa Teguise
volcano is not extinct, but only ∑ turismolanzarote.com is striking. Fake greenery and
dormant – brushwood pushed suburban lamps line boulevards
into a crevice bursts instantly Arrecife, with its modern buildings amid barren ashlands. White
into a ball of flame, while water and lively streets, is the commer- villas line a series of small sandy
poured into a sunken pipe shoots cial and admi nistrative centre of beaches. The high level of
out in a scorching jet of steam. the island. Despite its modern investment has succeeded in
The road from Yaiza to the trappings, the capital retains attracting jet-set clientele. King
coast leads to the Salinas de much of its old charm, with palm- Juan Carlos also has a villa here.
Janubio, where salt is extracted
from the sea. At Los Hervi deros
the rough coast can create
spectacular seas and further
north, at El Golfo, is an eerie
emerald-coloured lagoon.

h Puerto del
Carmen
Las Palmas. * 13,700. @ g
n Avenida de la Playa, 928 51 33 51.
_ Nuestra Señora del Carmen
(16 Jul). ∑ turismolanzarote.com
More than 60 per cent of
Lanzarote’s tourists stay in this
resort, which stretches several Umbrellas on the beach, Puerto del Carmen




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554  SP AIN ’ S ISLANDS


On the roadside near Mozaga is plants. Nearby is the Jardín de
the Monumento al Campesino, Cactus, a well-stocked cactus
Manrique’s (see p552) striking garden with a smart restaurant,
modern sculpture dedicated again designed by Manrique.
to Lanzarote’s farmers.
Between Teguise and Arrecife } Mirador del Río
is the Fundación César Haría. Tel 928 52 65 48. Open daily. &
Manrique. The former home of Y Jardín de Cactus
the artist incorporates five lava Guatiza. Tel 928 52 93 97. Open daily. &
caves, some of his own work and
his contemporary art collection.

E Museo de la Piratería
Montaña de Guanapay. Tel 928 84 50
01. Open daily. Closed 1 & 6 Jan, 25
Dec. & ∑ museodelapirateria.com
Iglesia de San Miguel on the main E Fundación César Manrique
square in Teguise Taro de Tahíche. Tel 928 84 31 38.
Open daily. Closed 1 Jan. &
l Teguise ∑ fcmanrique.org
Las Palmas. * 12,300. @ n Plaza de
la Constitución, 928 84 53 98. ( Sun. z Haría
_ Día del Carmen (16 Jul), Las Nieves
(5 Aug). ∑ turismolanzarote.com Las Palmas. * 4,000. @ n Plaza
de la Constitución 1, 928 83 52 51.
Teguise, the island’s capital until ( Sat. _ San Juan (24 Jun). Landscaped pool on top of the caves of
1852, is a well-kept, old-fashioned ∑ turismolanzarote.com Jameos del Agua
town with wide, cobbled streets
and patrician houses grouped Palm trees and white, cube- x Jameos del Agua
around the Iglesia de San Miguel. shaped houses distinguish this Las Palmas. Tel 928 84 80 20.
Visit on a Sun day, when there is picturesque village. It acts as a Open daily. &
a handicrafts market and folk gateway to excursions round
dancing. Outside Teguise, in the the northern tip of the island. An eruption of the Monte Corona
castle of Santa Bárbara is the The road to the north gives volcano formed the Jameos del
Museo de la Piratería, which memorable views over exposed Agua lava caves on Lanzarote’s
tells the story of the pirates who cliffs, and the 609-m- (2,000-ft-) northeast coast. In 1965–8,
passed through here. high Monte Corona. these were landscaped by César
Manrique into an imag inative
Environs Environs subterranean complex
To see more of inland Lanzarote, From Manrique’s Mirador del Río containing a restaurant, night-
follow the central road south of you can see La Graciosa, and the club, a swimming pool edged
Teguise, through the strange northernmost of the Canary by palm trees, and gardens of
farmland of La Geria. Black Islands, Alegranza. Orzola is oleander and cacti. Steps lead
volcanic ash has been scooped a delightful fishing village to a shallow seawater lagoon
into protective, crescent-shaped providing fish lunches as well as where a rare species of blind
pits which trap moisture to boat trips to La Graciosa. To the white crab, unique to Lanzarote,
enable vines and other crops south are the Mala prickly pear glows softly in the dim light. An
to flourish. Mozaga, one of the plantations, where cochineal exhibition on volcanology and
main villages in the area, is a (crimson dye) is extracted from Canarian flora and fauna also
major centre of wine production. the insects which feed on the deserves a look. Folk-dancing
evenings are regularly held in
this unusual setting.
Environs
Another popular attraction
is the nearby Cueva de los
Verdes, a tube of solidifed
lava stretching 6 km (4 miles)
underground. Guided tours
of the caves are available.
} Cueva de los Verdes
Haría. Tel 928 84 84 84.
Volcanic ash swept into crescent-shaped pits for farming, La Geria Open daily. &
For hotels and restaurants in this region see p575 and pp604–5


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THE C ANAR Y ISLANDS  555


Volcanic Islands

The volcanic activity which formed the Canary Islands has created a variety of
scenery, from distinctive lava formations to enormous volcanoes crowned by
huge, gaping craters. The islands are all at different stages in their evolution.
Tenerife, Lanzarote, El Hierro and La Palma are still volcanic ally active; dramatic
displays of flames and steam can be seen in Lanzarote’s Montañas de Fuego
(see p552). The last eruption was on La Palma in 1971.

Origin of the Islands Atlantic Ocean Transform fault Atlas Fault
The Canaries are situated
above faults in the earth’s Canary Islands
crust, which is always Thin oceanic
thin ner under the oceans crust
than under the con tinents.
When magma (molten
rock) rises through
these cracks, volcanoes Upper Africa
are formed. mantle Continental
mantle between
Dense lower mantle
Thick continental crust crust and earth’s core
Evolution of the Canary Islands

Fissures Lanzarote, El Hierro and La Palma
Feeder dykes
1 are wide, gently sloping shield
volcanoes standing on the sea
Basalt lava floor. All of them are composed
flows of basalt formed by a hot, dense
magma. The flexible crust is pressed
down by the weight of the islands.
Crust
Mantle
Magma chamber
An explosive eruption can empty
2 the magma chamber, leaving the
roof unsupported. This collapses
Caldera under the weight of the volcano
above to form a depression, or
Shallow caldera, such as Las Cañadas
magma on Tenerife. There are thick lava
flows during this stage of the
chamber island’s evolution.
If eruptions cease, a volcano will
3 be eroded by the action of the sea,
Sea level and by wind and rain. Gran Canaria’s
main volcano is in the early stages
Exposed solidified of erosion, while the volcano on
magma chamber Fuerteventura has already been
deeply eroded, expos ing chambers
of solidified magma.









Rope lava near La Restinga, El Hierro (see pp536–7) Pico Viejo crater, next to Mount Teide, Tenerife (see p542)





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Travellers’


needs





Where to Stay 558–575

Where to Eat and Drink 576–605
Shopping 606–607
Entertainment 608–609
Outdoor Activities &
Specialist Holidays 610–613













































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558  TR A VELLERS ’ NEEDS

WHERE TO STAY

Luxury hotels set in medieval castles, man sions hotels on the Costa del Sol and in the Balearic
converted into youth hostels, designer B&Bs and the Canary Islands. Visitors can stay on
in the heart of buzzing cities – there is a huge remote farms, or in old, self-catered villas.
range of places to stay in Spain. The country For budget travel there are pensions, family-
has some 10,000 establish ments and over one run casas rurales, guest houses and camp sites,
and a half million beds to choose from; it’s no as well as refuges with stunning views for
wonder that tourism sustain’s Spain’s economy. mountaineers. Some of the best hotels in all
Suites in once-royal palaces are at the top of these categories and in every style and
the scale and then there are luxury beach price range are listed on pages 562–75.


individual style, and has a
restaurant offering regional
cuisine. They are generally
well signposted.
If you plan to tour in high
season or to stay in the smaller
paradors, be sure to reserve in
advance. The paradors may be
booked through the Central de
Reservas or through London
agent Keytel International.

Prices
Spanish law requires all hotels
to display their prices behind
Entrance to Taberna del Alabardero in Seville (see p571) the reception and in each room.
As a rule, the higher a hotel’s star
Hotel Grading and Paradors rating, the more you pay. Rates
Facilities Paradors are government-run for a double room can be as
Spain’s hotels are classified into hotels, classified from three to little as €35–50 a night for a
categories and awarded stars by five stars. Spain’s first parador one-star hostal; a five-star hotel
the regional tourist authorities. opened in the Sierra de Gredos will cost more than €275 a night,
Hotels (indicated by an H on a in 1928; there is now a wide but a room price higher than
plaque near the door) have one network of over 90, on the €350 a night is rare, especially
to five stars. Hostales (Hs) and mainland and the Canary outside Madrid or Barcelona.
pensiones (P) are cheaper than Islands. Most, and certainly Prices usually vary according
hotels, offer fewer comforts, the most historic, are located in to room, region and season.
and have one to three stars. A the centre and the north of the A suite or a room with a view, a
pensión that is not good enough mainland. The best are in former balcony or other special feature
to be awarded a star is known as royal hunting lodges, castles, may cost more than average.
a casa de huéspedes (guesthouse). monasteries and other monu- Rural and suburban hotels tend
Spain’s star-rating system ments; some modern paradors to be less expensive than those
reflects the range of facilities have been purpose-built, often in the city centre. All the prices
available rather than the quality in spec tacular scenery or in on pages 562–75 are based
of service. Most hotels have air- towns of historic interest. on mid- or high-season rates.
conditioning, and many provide A parador is not nec essarily High season covers July and
amenities like internet access or the best hotel in town, but it August, Easter and the Christmas
a restaurant offering local fare. can be counted on to deliver a period, but in some
Most hotel restaurants are open high level of com fort areas it runs from April to
to non-residents. Hotel-residencias and service. Each October. In the Canary
(HR) and hostal-residencias (HsR) is furnished in Islands the winter is
do not have dining rooms, but its own high season.
some serve breakfast. Among
Spain’s largest hotel chains are
Meliá Hotels International,
Grupo Riu and NH-Hotels. Tour
operators often book rooms
in Spain’s larger hotel groups. A parador within a modern extension of a medieval castle
Striking black-and-white floor and sweeping staircase at a luxury hotel in Tenerife



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WHERE T O ST A Y  559


Many of Spain’s city hotels and by credit card or banker’s
charge especially inflated draft from outside the country.
rates for their rooms during If you have to cancel, do so at
major fiestas – such as the April least a week before the booking
Fair in Seville (see p435), Los date or you may lose all or
Sanfermines in Pamplona (see some of the deposit.
p136), Carnival in Santa Cruz de In most cases hotels will
Tenerife (see p540) and Easter honour a booking only until
Week (see p42) – and major 8pm unless business is poor.
trade fairs. If you are delayed, call the
Most hotels quote prices hotel to assure them you
per room and meal prices per are coming and to tell them
person without including VAT when to expect you.
(IVA), which is 10 per cent on When you check in to a View over the palm-lined pool of a
the mainland and 5 per cent hotel you will be asked for Lanzarote hotel, with the beach beyond
on the Canary Islands. your passport or identity Casas Rurales
card to comply with Spanish
police regulations. It will The owners of some casas rurales
normally be returned to you (country houses) accept a few
promptly as soon as your visitors, usually in high season.
details have been copied. They are most numerous in
You are expected to check Asturias, Navarra, Aragón and
out of your room by noon on Catalonia (where they are called
the last day of your stay, or to cases de pagès). They are also
pay for another night. becoming common in Galicia
and Cantabria (where they are
called casonas), and in Andalucía.
Paying
Casas rurales range from
Most hotels accept major manor houses to small, isolated
credit cards. In some large, farms. Some offer bed and
busy hotels you may be asked breakfast; some an evening
for an author ization hold on meal or full board; and others
your credit card until you check are self-catering. Do not expect
out. Make sure this is cancelled hotel service or lots of facilities.
Stylish lounge area at Hotel Arts, when you pay your bill. You may, however, be given
Barcelona (see p565) Personal and travellers’ cheques a friendly welcome and good
are not accepted in almost all home cooking, all at an afford-
Booking and Check-in
Spanish hotels, even if backed able price. You can book casas
During the off-season period, by a cheque guarantee card or rurales directly or through
especially in rural or small drawn on a Spanish bank. Many regional associations, such
towns, there is no real need to people pay cash, and in some as RAAR in Andalucía, Ruralia
book ahead; but if you plan cheap hotels this may be the in Asturias, Turismo Verde in
to travel in high season, you only mode of payment accepted. Huesca, Aragón, Ruralverd
should reserve a room in Tipping hotel staff such in Catalonia and AGATUR
advance. You will need to as porters and cleaners is left (Asociación Gallega de
reserve if you want a special to the discretion of the guests. Turismo Rural) in Galicia.
room: one with a double bed
(twin beds are the norm); on
the ground floor; away from
a noisy main road; or a room
with a view.
The resort hotels often close
from autumn to spring. It is
advisable to check ahead
that your preferred hotels will
be open at that time of year.
You will normally be asked
for your credit card details when
you book a room. A deposit
of 20–25 per cent may be
requested if you book during
a peak period or for a stay of
more than a few nights. Send
it by credit card or giro in Spain Agroturisme Biniatram in Menorca, offering rooms in converted farm buildings (see pp574–5)




558-559_EW_Spain.indd 559 26/09/17 11:03 am

560  TR A VELLERS ’ NEEDS

Self-catering and B&Bs
Villas and holiday flats let by
the week are plentiful along the
coasts, and on the rise in the
cities. In the countryside there
are many casas rurales (farm and
village houses) for rent by the
day. For informa tion about the
casas rurales and bookings,
contact their regional organiza­
tions (see p559). In the UK, Villas 4
You acts as an agent for owners
of holiday houses and flats in
Spain, as does International
Lodging Corporation in the Camping site close to the beach, in Miami Platja, Catalonia
US. There are more options
in the travel sections of UK options that are great for inde p­ The refugios are marked on
Sunday news papers. Tour endent travellers. HolidayLetting, large­scale maps of mountain
operators offer a range of self­ HomeAway and Airbnb all areas and national parks and
catering accommodation. offer excellent websites for administered by the regional
The prices for self­catering researching such options. mountaineering associations.
accommodation vary according The Federación Española de
to the location, the property Deportes de Montaña y
and the season. A four­person Youth Hostels and Escalada (FEDME) and the
Mountain Refuges
villa with a pool can cost under local tourist offices can
€350 for a week if it is inland To use the network of albergues supply their addresses.
and €1,200 a week or more if juveniles (youth hostels) in Spain
it is on the coast. you need to show a YHA (Youth Camp Sites
An apartment hotel (known Hostel Association) card from
as a villa turística in Andalucía) your country or an international There are nearly 1,200 camp
is another option. Half hotel, card, which you can buy from sites in Spain. Most are on the
half holiday flat, it gives guests any hostel. Here, the prices per coasts, but some are also
a choice between self­catering person for bed and breakfast outside major cities, and in
(all rooms have a kitchen) or are lower than hotel prices. the popular countryside and
eating in the hotel restaurant. Youth hostels can be booked mountain areas. Most have
Holiday villages are similar, often directly or via the Red Española electricity and running water;
catering for specialist interests. de Albergues Juveniles some also have laundrettes,
One example is the village of (Spanish Network of Youth play grounds, restaurants, shops
Ainsa, in the mountain sports Hostels). Despite the name, or a pool. Glamping Hub offers
region of Aragón (see p567), there is no age limit. a more upscale camping experi­
which offers a mix of camping Mountaineers heading for the ence, with unparalleled access
and hostel accommodation, more remote areas may use to nature. There is a variety of
with restaurants and bars. the refugios (refuges) – shelters unique accommodation to
Although B&Bs are arguably with a dormitory, cooking choose from, including luxury
not as popular in Spain as they facilities and heating. Some are treehouses, retro­style caravans,
are elsewhere in Europe, there huts with a few bunks; others yurts, caves, tepees, eco­friendly
are a number of guesthouse are houses with up to 50 beds. domes, luxury tents and cabins
all over Spain.
It is a good idea to carry a
camping carnet with you. This
can be used instead of a passport
to check in at sites and it covers
you for third­party insurance.
Carnets are issued in the UK by
the AA, RAC and the Camping
and Caravanning Club.
Every year, the Guía Oficial
de Campings is published by
Turespaña. More details are also
available from the Federación
Española de Empresarios
de Campings y Parques de
Vacaciones. In Spain, camping
Youth hostel in rustic style on the edge of Cazorla nature reserve, Jaén is only permitted on official sites.




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WHERE T O ST A Y  561

Monasteries and Minusválidos Físicos de España)
Convents
runs a hotel in Madrid for
If you have a taste for peace and disabled people’s groups. It
austerity you may enjoy a night also advises on hotels for guests
in one of Spain’s 150 religious with special needs. Accessible
houses where guests are holidays can be booked
welcome. Most belong to the through Can Be Done, which
Benedictine and the Cistercian has a list of accommodation
orders. Room prices are inexpen­ on the coast and islands,
sive. They are not hotels, however; including resorts and self­
you have to book ahead by catering apartments.
writing or by phone; and few Wrought-iron gates adorn the entrance to
have private telephones or Hotel Alma, Barcelona
televisions. The guests may be Further Information
asked to tidy their rooms, observe Turespaña (Spanish Tourist high­end design elements.
the same strict mealtimes as the Office) has a useful website, Historic hotels promise a
monks or nuns and to help with which has a very compre hensive characterful stay in a building
the washing up. Some convents database of hotels, hostals, of note, and places listed under
admit only women and some pensions and other accommo­ Rooms with a view boast
monasteries only men. dation in Spain. Bookings can stunning settings. Finally, B&Bs
be made via the website as well. are guesthouses or inns, often
with a hearty breakfast supplied.
Travellers with Certain entries, marked as
Disabilities Recommended Hotels
DK Choice, offer something
Hotel managers will advise on The hotels listed on pages 562–75 extra special. They may be set
access for people in wheel chairs, cover a range of themes and in beautiful surroundings, a
and the staff will help, but few price ranges. Hotels in the historic palace or in a converted
hotels are well equipped for luxury category offer first­class farmhouse where you’re treated
disabled guests, although amenities, excellent service and like a member of the family.
some of the youth hostels are. plush surrounds, while boutique Common to all is a second­
COCEMFE (the Confederación establishments are usually small to­none quality of service
Coordinadora Estatal de and independently run, with and atmosphere.
DIRECTORY
Hotel Grading & RAAR HomeAway Federación Española
Facilities Sagunto 8, 04004, ∑ homeaway.com de Empresarios de
Almería. Tel 902 44 22 33. Campings y Parques
Grupo Riu ∑ raar.es International Lodging de Vacaciones
Tel 902 40 05 02. Corporation C/ Orense 32, entreplanta,
∑ riu.com Ruralia ∑ ilcweb.com 28020, Madrid.
Calle Centro de Empresas, Tel 914 48 12 34.
Meliá Hotels oficina 3, 33500, Llanes Villas 4 You ∑ fedcamping.com
International (Asturias). Tel 0800 074 0122.
Tel 91 276 47 47. Tel 902 10 70 70. ∑ villas4you.co.uk Glamping Hub
∑ melia.com ∑ glampinghub.com
∑ ruralia.com Youth Hostels &
NH-Hoteles Mountain Refuges Travellers with
Tel 91 398 44 38. Ruralverd Disabilities
∑ nh-hotels.com Calle del Pí 11, Principal 8, Federación Española
08002, Barcelona. de Deportes de Can Be Done
Paradors Tel 93 304 37 74. Montaña y Escalada Congress House, 14 Lyon
∑ ruralverd.es Road, Harrow HA1 2EN,
Central de Reservas Tel 93 426 42 67. UK. Tel 020 8907 2400.
José Abascal 2, 28003 Turismo Verde ∑ fedme.es ∑ canbedone.co.uk
Madrid. Tel 902 54 79 79. Calle Miguel Servet 12, Red Española de
∑ parador.es 22002, Huesca. Tel 902 29 Albergues Juveniles COCEMFE
41 41, or 974 24 09 41. C/ Luis Cabrera 63, 28002,
Keytel International ∑ turismoverde.es Tel 91 308 46 75. Madrid. Tel 917 44 36 00.
∑ keytel.co.uk ∑ reaj.com ∑ cocemfe.es
Self-catering
Casa Rurales and B&Bs Camp Sites Further
AGATUR Airbnb Camping and Information
Recinto Ferial, Apdo 26, ∑ airbnb.com Caravanning Club Turespaña
Silleda, 36540, Pontevedra. Tel 024 7647 5426 in UK. Tel 0207 317 2011 in UK.
Tel 986 57 70 00. HolidayLettings ∑ campingand Tel 212 265 8822 in US.
∑ agatur.org ∑ holidaylettings.com caravanningclub.co.uk ∑ spain.info



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562  TR A VELLERS ’ NEEDS

Where to Stay

OURENSE: Monasterio de Price Guide
Galicia Santo Estevo € Prices are based on one night’s stay in
Historic high season for a standard double room,
A CORUÑA: Hotel Melia Monasterio de Santo Estevo s/n, 32162 inclusive of service charges and taxes.
Maria Pita € Tel 988 01 01 10 € up to €130
Rooms with a View ∑ parador.es €€ €130 to €240
Avenida Pedro Barrié de la Modern comfort in a beautiful €€€ over €240
Maza 1, 15003 medieval parador set in a former
Tel 981 20 50 00 monastery. The surrounding hills SANTIAGO DE COMPOSTELA:
∑ melia.com are ideal for hiking. San Francisco Hotel
A family-friendly hotel with good Monumento €€
service, kids’ clubs and family PONTEVEDRA: Balneario Historic
suites. Beachfront location. de Mondariz €€ Campillo San Francisco 3, 15705
Luxury Tel 981 58 16 34
A CORUÑA: Hotel Hespería Avenida Enrique Peinador s/n, 36890 ∑ sanfranciscohm.com
Finisterre €€ Tel 986 65 61 56 Stylish, modern hotel set in a
Luxury ∑ balneariomondariz.es historic monastery. Indoor
Paseo del Parrote 2–4, 15001 Housed in a traditional stone swimming pool and hot tub.
Tel 981 20 54 00 building, this hotel has a justly
∑ hesperia.com famous spa, plus kids’ activities SANXENXO: Hotel Carlos
Harbour views and five-star and a golf course. The hotel has I Silgar €€
facilities. An excellent base for always been a favourite with Luxury
exploring the area. artists and politicians. Calle Vigo s/n, 36960
Tel 986 72 70 36
A GUARDA: Hotel Convento RIBADEO: Hotel Rolle € ∑ hotelcarlos.es
de San Benito € Historic Spa facilities, spacious rooms, a
Historic Calle Ingeniero Schulz 9, 27700 seafront location and impeccable
Plaza San Benito s/n, 36780 Tel 982 12 06 70 service draw guests to this hotel
Tel 986 61 11 66 ∑ hotelrolle.com in the centre of Sanxenxo.
∑ hotelsanbenito.es Set in an 18th-century town
Delightful hotel set in a restored house, this hotel has charming, DK Choice
medieval convent with sea views. rustic rooms and friendly service.
All the rooms are decorated with VIGO: Gran Hotel Nagari €€
antiques, and guests can enjoy SANTIAGO DE COMPOSTELA: Boutique
the collection of ancient books San Miguel Hotel Praza de Compostela 21, 36201
and manuscripts in the library. Gastronómico € Tel 986 21 11 11
There is also a small museum. Rooms with a View ∑ granhotelnagari.com
Praza de San Miguel dos Agros 9, An extremely chic and luxurious
BAIONA: Parador de Baiona €€ 15704 hotel, with spacious, beautifully
Historic Tel 981 55 57 79 decorated rooms and all
Rua Arquitecto Jesus Valverde, 36300 ∑ sanmiguelsantiago.com modern amenities. The spa
Tel 986 35 50 00 Views of the Old Town, chic rooms offers a plethora of treatments
∑ parador.es and an excellent restaurant are to relax and indulge the senses.
This walled medieval fortress, not among the draws at this hotel,
far from the Old Town, boasts a which offers a good combination
spectacular location, surrounded of old and new. There is also a
by the sea on three sides. beautiful courtyard garden.
Asturias and
CAMBADOS: Parador Cantabria
de Cambados €€
Historic CABRANES: Hostería de
Paseo Calzada s/n, 36630 Torazo €€€
Tel 986 54 22 50 Luxury
∑ parador.es Plaza de la Sienra 1, Torazo, 33535
This elegant 17th-century Tel 985 89 80 99
mansion is a great base for ∑ hosteriadetorazo.com
exploring the lush landscapes Modern hotel with a plush spa,
of the Rías Baixas. comfortable rooms and a good
restaurant. Set in a pretty,
LUGO: Hotel Rústico Vila traditional village.
do Val €
Boutique CANGAS DE ONÍS: Parador
Praza Santa María 2, 27770, de Cangas de Onís €
Ferreira do Valadouro Historic
Tel 982 57 16 53 Villanueva de Cangas, 33550
∑ hotelviladoval.com Tel 985 84 94 02
This charming, rustic hotel tucked ∑ parador.es
away 20 minutes from the coast There are beautiful views at this
makes an excellent base for Monasterio de Santo Estevo in Ourense, stunning 8th-century monastery
exploring the local surroundings. boasting spectacular views on the banks of the River Sella.
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WHERE T O ST A Y  563

COLUNGA: Palacio de Libardón €
Historic
Lugar Barrio de Arriba 197, 33325
Tel 605 81 63 87
∑ palaciodelibardon.com
A restored palacio with excellent
food and great mountain views.
Each room has a different decor.
CUDILLERO: Hotel Casona
Selgas €
Historic
Avenida Selgas s/n, 33154
Tel 985 59 05 48
∑ hotelcasonaselgas.com
A small, family-run hotel in a
traditional Asturian building
along the Pilgrim’s Route, with
superb service and helpful hosts.
DK Choice Designer minimalism at Hotel Miró, Bilbao
FUENTE DÉ: Parador de Five-star luxury hotel housed in
Fuente Dé € a fabulous 20th-century palace The Basque Country,
Historic surrounded by beautiful gardens. Navarra and La Rioja
Barrio Espinama s/n, 39588
Tel 942 73 66 51 PECHÓN: Hotel Tinas €€ ANGUIANO: Abadía
∑ parador.es Boutique de Valvanera €
This parador has all the usual Barrio Quintana 64, 39594 Historic
high standards and amenities, Tel 942 71 73 36 Crta LR-435, km 24.6,
but it’s the truly spectacular ∑ tinasdepechon.com Monasterio de Valvanera
setting, surrounded by the The Tinas is a contemporary, Tel 941 37 70 44
mountains of the Picos de stylish hotel close to the beach. ∑ abadiavalvanera.com
Europa, that sets it apart. Explore All rooms have kitchenettes. Simple, understated rooms in an
or simply marvel at the views. old Benedictine abbey in the
RIBADESELLA: Hotel Villa beautiful Sierra de la Demanda.
Rosario I €€
GIJÓN: Hotel Hernán Cortes € Historic BERA: Hotel Churrut €
Historic Dionisio Ruizsánchez 6, 33560 Historic
Fernandez Vallin 5, 33205 Tel 985 86 00 90 Plaza de los Fueros 2, 31780
Tel 985 34 60 00 ∑ hotelvillarosario.com Tel 948 62 55 40
∑ hotelhernancortes.es Renovated palace on the seafront ∑ hotelchurrut.com
Comfortable rooms in a historic at Ribadesella. Sea and mountain A converted, restored 17th-
casino building. Central location views, and excellent facilities. century home. Cosy and stylish.
near the beach, bars and shops. Excellent restaurant.
SAN VICENTE DE LA BARQUERA:
LLANES: Hotel Rural Hotel Villa de San Vicente € BILBAO: Hotel Carlton €€
Cuartamenteru € Rooms with a View Historic
Rooms with a View Calle Fuente Nueva 1, 39540 Plaza de Federico Moyúa 2, 48009
Barrio Anteji s/n, Poo de Llanes, 33509 Tel 942 71 21 38 Tel 944 16 22 00
Tel 985 40 32 76 ∑ hotelvsvicente.com ∑ hotelcarlton.es
∑ cuartamenteru.com Clean, cosy and quiet rooms in a This elegant 1926 hotel is a
This hotel in a tranquil setting superb location, overlooking the city landmark. Rooms are
near the beach boasts lovely sea. Lovely views of the castle. decorated in classical style.
mountain views. Open Mar–Oct.
SANTANDER: Hostal BILBAO: Hotel Miró €€
MIESES: Posada el Bosque € Jardin Secreto € Boutique
Boutique B&B Alameda Mazarredo 77, 48009
Crta Monastero de Santo. Calle Cardenal Cisneros 37, 39007 Tel 946 61 18 80
Toribio, 39586 Tel 942 07 07 14 ∑ mirohotelbilbao.com
Tel 942 73 01 27 ∑ jardinsecretosantander.com Designed by Antonio Miró, this
∑ posadaelbosque.com Simple, tastefully decorated rooms, minimalist luxury hotel is close
This charming mountain hotel with a garden on the terrace. to the Guggenheim Museum.
with stunning views is the ideal
spot for a romantic getaway. SANTILLANA DEL MAR: BRIÑAS: Hospedería Señorío
Hotel Casa del Marqués €€ de Briñas €
OVIEDO: Castillo del Bosque Historic Historic
La Zoreda €€ Calle del Cantón 26, 39330 Calle Señorio de Briñas 5, 26290
Luxury Tel 942 81 88 88 Tel 941 30 42 24
Bosque de La Zoreda s/n, 33170, ∑ hotelcasadelmarques.com ∑ hotelesconencantodelarioja.com
La Manjoya Once home to the first Marqués A historic palace amid bucolic
Tel 985 96 33 33 of Santillana del Mar, this 500- wine country. Complimentary
∑ castillodelbosquedelazoreda.com year-old building is now a hotel. visits to the family-run wine cellar.
For more information on types of hotels see page 561
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564  TR A VELLERS ’ NEEDS

DONAMARÍA: Donmaria'ko LAGUARDIA: Hospedería PAMPLONA: Gran Hotel
Benta € Los Parajes €€ La Perla €€€
Inn Boutique Historic
Barrio Ventas 4, 31750 Calle Mayor 46–48, 01300 Plaza del Castillo 1, 31001
Tel 948 45 07 08 Tel 945 62 11 30 Tel 948 22 30 00
∑ donamariako.com ∑ hospederiadelosparajes.com ∑ granhotellaperla.com
Family-run place in a 19th-century This 15th-century stylish hotel Rooms have historical themes at
stone building with a traditional features a spa with hammam. this hotel, Ernest Hemingway’s
restaurant and garden views. Each room is uniquely decorated. favourite Pamplona haunt.
LEKEITIO: Hotel Zubieta €€ RONCESVALLES:
DK Choice Historic Hotel Roncesvalles €
ELCIEGO: Hotel Marqés Atea s/n, 48280 Historic
de Riscal €€€ Tel 946 84 30 30 Mayor s/n, 31650
Boutique ∑ hotelzubieta.com Tel 948 76 01 05
Calle Torrea 1, 01340 A 17th-century country house on ∑ hotelroncesvalles.com
Tel 945 18 08 80 the outskirts of the town. Pretty Once a medieval hospital, this chic
∑ hotel-marquesderiscal.com rooms overlook the gardens. hotel now hosts many pilgrims of
This stunning hotel combines the Camino de Santiago.
avant-garde design with an LOGROÑO: Hotel Calle Mayor €
unbeatable location in the heart Historic SAN SEBASTIÁN: Aida €
of the Basque wine country. Marqués de San Nicolás 71, 26001 B&B
Indulge in grape-based spa Tel 941 23 23 68 Calle Iztueta 9, 20001
treatments, relax on the rooftop ∑ hotelcallemayor.com Tel 943 32 78 00
lounge or take a winery tour. A former 16th-century mansion, ∑ pensionesconencanto.com
this urban hotel blends modern In a charming old building, this
design within historic walls. guesthouse has cosy rooms and
GETARIA: Hotel Rural studios with kitchenettes.
Gaintza € MUNDAKA: Atalaya Hotel €
B&B B&B SAN SEBASTIÁN: Hotel
Calle San Prudentzio Auzoa 26, 20808 Itxaropen Kalea 1, 48360 Maria Cristina €€€
Tel 943 14 00 32 Tel 946 17 70 00 Luxury
∑ txakoligaintza.com ∑ atalayahotel.es Paseo República Argentina 4, 20004
Elegant, contemporary rooms in Rooms with garden or sea views. Tel 943 43 76 00
an old farmhouse with views of A prime location for surfers and ∑ hotel-mariacristina.com
beautiful vineyards. sun-worshippers. A five-star hotel decorated in
belle époque style and known for
HARO: Los Agustinos €€ OLITE: Parador de Olite € its excellent service. River views.
Historic Historic
San Agustín 2, 26200 Plaza de Teobaldos 2, 31390 SANTO DOMINGO DE
Tel 941 31 13 08 Tel 948 74 00 00 LA CALZADA: Parador
∑ hotellosagustinos.com ∑ parador.es de Santo Domingo €
This hotel was originally founded Set in a majestic 15th-century Historic
in 1373 as a convent. The rooms castle, this parador is a national Plaza del Santo 3, 26250
are set around impressive cloisters monument. Classical interiors. Tel 941 34 03 00
topped with a glass ceiling. ∑ parador.es
PAMPLONA: Pamplona Dating from the 12th century,
HONDARRIBIA: Parador Catedral Hotel € this parador was once a hospital
de Hondarribia €€€ Boutique for pilgrims on the Camino.
Historic Calle Dos de Mayo 4, 31001
Plaza de Armas 14, 20280 Tel 948 22 66 88 VITORIA: La Casa de
Tel 943 64 55 00 ∑ pamplonacatedralhotel.com los Arquillos €
∑ parador.es Designer rooms in a former Historic
A 10th-century castle featuring convent by the cathedral, right Calle de Los Arquillos 1–2, 01001
original artifacts, courtyards and in the historic centre. The hotel Tel 945 15 12 59
terraces. Impressive views as well. also features a trendy bar. ∑ lacasadelosarquillos.com
This 18th-century building was
once a tailor’s workshop. The
rooms are bright and airy.
Barcelona
Old Town
Bonic Barcelona €
B&B Map 5 A3
Josep Anselm Clavé 9, 08002
Tel 626 05 34 34
∑ bonic-barcelona.com
A charming little B&B in the
Gothic Quarter, with delightful
Relaxed sophistication at Hotel Marqés de Riscal in Elciego staff and thoughtful extras.
Key to Price Guide see page 562


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WHERE T O ST A Y  565

Hotel Banys Orientals € Hotel Omm €€€
Boutique Map 5 B3 Luxury Map 3 B3
Carrer Argenteria 37, 08003 Rosselló 265, 08008
Tel 932 68 84 60 Tel 934 45 40 00
∑ hotelbanysorientals.com ∑ hotelomm.es
Stylish accommodation in a Modern, ultra­trendy hotel in an
restored historic building, with award­winning contemporary
a choice of rooms or suites. building with a restaurant
overseen by the Roca brothers,
Duquesa de Cardona €€ plus club and spa.
Boutique Map 5 A3
Passeig Colom 12, 08002 Mandarin Oriental Hotel €€€
Tel 932 68 90 90 Luxury Map 3 A4
∑ hduquesadecardona.com Passeig de Gràcia 38–40, 08007
Understated, classic hotel with a Tel 931 51 88 88
sublime roof terrace overlooking ∑ mandarinoriental.com
the yachts in the Port Vell. The stylish rooftop terrace with plunge pool Plush five­star hotel with white­
at Hotel Mercer, Barcelona and­gold interiors and a superb
Hotel Barcelona Catedral €€ Michelin­starred restaurant.
Boutique Map 5 A2 Ohla €€€
Carrer Capellans 4, 08002 Luxury Map 5 B1
Tel 933 04 22 55 Via Laietana 49, 08003 Further Afield
∑ barcelonacatedral.com Tel 933 41 50 50 ABaC €€€
Elegant rooms, and a panoramic ∑ ohlahotel.com Luxury
roof terrace with a plunge pool. A flamboyant five­star option, Avinguda Tibidabo 1, 08022
Efficient service. the Ohla boasts a sundeck and Tel 933 19 66 00
plunge pool, plus a stylish and ∑ abacbarcelona.com
Hotel España €€ upmarket tapas bar. Ultra­chic hotel with a garden,
Historic Map 2 F3 attached to a restaurant with
Sant Pau 9–11, 08001 Eixample two Michelin stars.
Tel 935 50 00 00
∑ hotelespanya.com Hostal L’Antic Espai € - DK Choice
A restored 1859 gem with a great B&B Map 3 B5
restaurant and bar containing Gran Via 660, 08010 Hotel Arts €€€
murals by Domènech i Montaner Tel 933 04 19 45 Luxury Map 6 E4
(of Palau de la Música fame). Quirky and decorated with Carrer de la Marina 19–21, 08005
antiques, this B&B has simple Tel 932 21 10 00
Hotel Yurbban €€ rooms. Breakfast is served on the ∑ hotelartsbarcelona.com
Boutique Map 5 B1 flower­filled terrace. A stunning hotel in a glass sky­
Carrer Trafalgar 30, 08010 scraper right on the beach.
Tel 932 68 07 27 Hotel Actual €€ Outstanding amenities include
∑ yurbban.com Boutique Map 3 B3 a 42nd­floor spa with panor­
Chic, designer rooms, plus a roof­ Rosselló 238, 08008 amic views, a wide selection
top sundeck and plunge pool. Tel 935 52 05 50 of top­quality restaurants
Guests enjoy complimentary ∑ hotelactual.com and bars and a fabulous
wine and cheese at the daily Stay in comfortable, minimalist collection of contemporary art.
“wine o’clock” sessions. rooms with a mono chromatic Excellent service.
decor. Great value for the location.

DK Choice Hotel Jazz €€
Hotel Mercer €€€ Boutique
Luxury Map 5 B3 Pelai 3, 08001 Catalonia
Carrer Lledó 7, 08002 Tel 935 52 96 96
Tel 933 10 74 80 ∑ hoteljazz.com BEGUR: Hotel Aiguaclara €€
∑ mercerbarcelona.com The Jazz offers spacious, modern Boutique
Exclusive and intimate, this hotel rooms, a rooftop sundeck with a Sant Miquel 2, 17255
occupies a sumptuous historic plunge pool, and attentive Tel 972 62 29 05
mansion which incorporates a service. Great value for money. ∑ hotelaiguaclara.com
section of ancient Roman Set in a beautiful village, the
walls. Behind the old façade is DK Choice Aiguaclara has just a handful
a sleek, contemporary interior of enchanting rooms, a
as well as a roof terrace with Alma €€€ garden, cosy nooks for
plunge pool. Boutique Map 3 B4 reading and relaxing, and an
Mallorca 271, 08008 excellent restaurant.
Tel 932 16 44 90
Hotel Neri €€€ ∑ almabarcelona.com BORREDÀ: El Querol Vell €€
Boutique Map 5 A2 The elegant Alma is famed for Historic
Sant Sever 5, 08002 its excellent service. It offers Carrer Manresa 75, 08619
Tel 933 04 06 55 chic, minimalist rooms and a Tel 938 23 98 10
∑ hotelneri.com lovely secret court yard and roof ∑ elquerolvell.com
This enchanting hideaway is terrace. Enjoy amenities such as Set in beautiful countryside, this
located in an 18th­century palace the spa and pool. farmhouse has charming rooms,
with a superb restaurant. plus a garden and a restaurant.
For more information on types of hotels see page 561
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566  TR A VELLERS ’ NEEDS

LLAFRANC: El Far de SANTA CRISTINA D’ARO:
Sant Sebastià €€ Mas Tapiolas €€€
Boutique Boutique
Muntanya de Sant Sebastià, 17211 Carretera C65, km 7, Veinat de
Tel 972 30 16 39 Solius s/n, 17246
∑ hotelelfar.com Tel 932 83 70 17
A romantic hotel on a clifftop ∑ hotelmastapiolas.es
overlooking the coast, the El Far Mas Tapiolas is a gorgeous hotel
also has a fine restaurant. set in a beautiful 18th-century
farmhouse a short drive from
LLORET DE MAR: Sant Pere the beaches. Lovely gardens
del Bosc Hotel & Spa €€€ and a fine restaurant.
Luxury
Paratge Sant Pere del Bosc s/n, 17310 SITGES: Hotel Galeon €
Tel 972 36 16 36 Boutique
∑ santperedelboschotel.com Sant Francesc 46, 08870
Sleek, contemporary exterior of Ciutat Lavish suites and a spectacular Tel 938 94 13 79
de Girona, Girona spa in a Modernist villa 5 km ∑ hotelsitges.com
(3 miles) from the beaches. Amenities at this friendly, classic
CADAQUÉS: Hotel Llané Petit € hotel with cosy rooms, many
Boutique MONTBLANC: Fonda Cal Blasi € with terraces, include a small
Platja Llane Petit s/n, 17488 Historic pool shaded by palm trees in
Tel 972 25 10 20 Carrer Alenyá 11, 43400 the garden.
∑ llanepetit.com Tel 977 86 13 36
Charming beachfront option on ∑ santperedelboschotel.com TARRAGONA: Hotel Pigal €
the edge of town, with crisp blue- A cosy hotel in a 19th-century B&B
and-white rooms. building with rustically decorated Carrer Cardenal Cervantes 6, 43004
rooms and a restaurant serving Tel 977 50 68 18
CARDONA: Hotel Bremon €€ local specialities. ∑ hotelpigal.com
Historic Stay in immaculate, simply
Cambres 15, 08261 MONTSENY: Hotel Can Cuch €€ furnished rooms in a central
Tel 938 68 49 02 Historic location. This little hotel prides
∑ hotelbremon.com Can Cuch de Muntanya 35, 08445 itself on its friendly service.
An elegantly converted convent, Tel 931 03 39 80
this hotel has stylish rooms and ∑ hotelcancuch.com TORRENT: Mas de Torrent
apartments. Cosy restaurant. Stunning masia (farmhouse) in Hotel & Spa €€€
the hills with exquisite guest- Historic
DELTEBRE: Delta Hotel € rooms and expansive views. Afueras de Torrent, 17123
B&B Tel 902 55 03 21
Avinguda del Canal, Camí de MONTSERRAT: Abat Cisneros €€ ∑ hotelmastorrent.com
la Illeta s/n, 43580 Historic Refined rooms, good service
Tel 977 48 00 46 Plaça de Montserrat s/n, 08199 and an excellent restaurant
∑ deltahotel.net Tel 938 77 77 01 are to be found in this
Charming family-run rural hotel; Located next to the basilica, this masia (farmhouse).
a great base for exploring the hotel has comfortable rooms,
beautiful Ebro Delta. and it offers hearty Catalan TOSSA DE MAR:
cuisine in the restaurant. Hotel Cap d’Or €
FIGUERES: Hotel Duran €€ B&B
Historic OLOT: Les Cols Pavelons €€ Passeig del Mar 1, 17320
Lausaca 5, 17600 Luxury Tel 972 34 00 81
Tel 972 50 12 50 Avinguda de les Cols 2, 17800 ∑ hotelcapdor.com
∑ hotelduran.com Tel 699 813 817 This small, whitewashed hotel is
A hotel with comfortable rooms ∑ lescolspavellons.com set in an 18th-century building
and a restaurant that was once Stunning hotel with glassy cube right on the seafront.
frequented by Salvador Dalí. pavilions in the garden, and an
award-winning restaurant.
GIRONA: Ciutat de Girona €
Boutique DK Choice
Nord 2, 17001
Tel 972 48 30 38 PLATJA D’ARO: Silken Park
∑ hotelciutatdegirona.com Hotel San Jorge €€
This stylish, modern hotel offers a Boutique
choice of rooms and apartments, Avenida Andorra 28, 17250
a wellness centre and a restaurant. Tel 972 65 23 11
∑ hoteles-silken.com
GRANOLLERS: Fonda Europa €€ Friendly and relaxed, this elegant
Historic hotel in a fine clifftop location
Anselm Clavé 1, 08402 on the Costa Brava has pleasant
Tel 938 70 03 12 rooms with balconies overlook-
∑ hotelfondaeuropa.com ing the sea. Steps lead down
A classic, long-established inn the cliff to a perfect little cove
with fine rooms and a smart fringed with rocks and pine trees. Plush furnishings at Mas de Torrent Hotel
restaurant serving Catalan cuisine. & Spa, Torrent
Key to Price Guide see page 562
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WHERE T O ST A Y  567

VIC: Parador de Vic-Sau €€
Boutique
Paraje el Bac de Sau. Crta de
Tavèrnoles, Bv 5213, km 10, 08500
Tel 938 12 23 23
This modern parador has an idyllic
setting in woods overlooking a
lake. Lovely grounds and pool.
VIELHA: Hotel El Ciervo €€
Historic
Plaça de Sant Orenc 3, 25530
Tel 973 64 01 65
∑ hotelelciervo.net
Family-run hotel with rustically
decorated rooms and a lounge
with a roaring fire in winter.
Country-cottage style at Barosse B&B, Barós
Aragón MIRAMBEL: Las Moradas CALPE: Gran Hotel Sol y Mar €
del Temple €€ Luxury
AINSA: Los Siete Reyes € Boutique Calle Benidorm 3, 03710
Boutique Calle Agustín Pastor 15, 44141 Tel 965 87 50 55
Plaza Mayor s/n, 22330 Tel 964 17 82 70 ∑ granhotelsolymar.com
Tel 974 50 06 81 ∑ lasmoradasdeltemple.es This charming, modern hotel is
∑ lossietereyes.com A romantic hotel with four-poster close to both town and beach.
Rooms at this hotel in a historic beds, set in a charming stone inn Spa on site. Over 16s only.
mansion have views of either in Mirambel’s historic centre.
Ainsa’s old square or the Pyrenees. CARTAGENA: La Manga Club
SALLENT DE GALLEGO: Principe Felipe €€
ALQUEZAR: Casa Alodia € Hotel Valle de Izas € Luxury
Boutique Boutique La Manga Club, 30389
C/ San Gregorio; C/ Arrabal s/n, 22145 Calle Francia 26, 22640 Tel 968 17 55 77
Tel 626 35 18 16 Tel 974 48 85 08 ∑ lamangaclub.com
∑ casa-alodia.com ∑ hotelvalledeizas.com This exclusive Spanish-village-
This hotel has two buildings: San Traditionally decorated wooden style hotel is popular with
Gregorio’s suits families, Arrabal is rooms give this village hotel near celebrities. It has a spa, sports
good for a romantic break. Formigal ski resort a homely feel. facilities and entertainment.
BARÓS: Barosse € ZARAGOZA: Hotel Sauce € DÉNIA: Rosa €
B&B Boutique Boutique
Calle Estiras 4, 22712 Calle Espoz y Mina 33, 50003 Calle Congre 3, Las Marinas 03700
Tel 974 36 05 82 Tel 976 20 50 50 Tel 965 78 15 73
∑ barosse.com ∑ hotelsauce.com ∑ hotelrosadenia.com
This enchanting stone-built B&B This central hotel offers tastefully This Mediterranean-style mansion
offers five beautiful rooms and a designed rooms and breakfasts set in beautiful gardens has
daily-changing evening menu. featuring home-made cakes. comfortable, modern bedrooms.
ELX: Hotel Huerto del Cura
DK Choice Inn €
CALACEITE: Hotel Cresol € Valencia and Murcia Porto de la Morera 14, 03203
Inn Tel 966 61 00 11
Calle Santa Bárbara 16, 44610 ALICANTE: Amerigo € ∑ hotelhuertodelcura.com
Tel 609 90 81 90 Boutique A lush palm tree oasis with
∑ hotelcresol.com Calle Rafael Altamira 7, 03002 bungalow accommodation and
This inn is a beautifully converted Tel 965 14 65 70 a pool. Some rooms have wood-
olive mill. In the rooms, ∑ hospes.es beamed ceilings; all are tastefully
contemp orary artworks and Facilities at this old Dominican decorated in neutral colours.
traditional furniture provide a convent converted into a stylish
perfect balance between the hotel include a spa, pool, bar DK Choice
ancient and the modern. and restaurant. Pets allowed.
FORTUNA: Balneario Leana €
BOCAIRENT: Hotel L’Estació € Historic
FUENTESPALDA: Historic Calle Balneario, 30630
Mas de la Serra €€ Parc de l’Estació s/n, 46880 Tel 902 44 44 10
Inn Tel 962 35 00 00 ∑ leana.es
Mas de la Serra, 44587 ∑ hotelestacio.com Renowned as Murcia’s oldest
Tel 976 36 90 98 A warm welcome awaits at this hotel – it was founded in 1860 –
∑ masdelaserra.com gorgeous country inn converted this atmospheric health spa
A remote, renovated farmhouse from a 19th-century train station. conjures up a unique aura of
surrounded by acres of almond It is set in beautiful parkland, so the past, with Modernist details.
trees. Glorious views. peace and quiet are guaranteed.
For more information on types of hotels see page 561


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568  TR A VELLERS ’ NEEDS


DK Choice
Hostal Gala €
Boutique Map 4 E1
Costanilla de los Angeles 15, 28013
Tel 915 41 96 92
∑ hostalgala.com
An excellent choice in the city
centre, this hostel has affordable
yet stylish rooms and apart-
ments, many with balconies
overlooking a delightful square.
Warm, friendly service and
extras such as power showers
make this place stand out.
Stylish decor at Hostal Gala, Madrid Hotel Plaza Mayor €
Historic Map 4 E3
LA VILA JOÍOSA: VALENCIA: SH Inglés Boutique € Calle Atocha 2, 28012
Hotel Montiboli €€ Boutique Tel 913 60 06 06
Luxury Calle Marqués de Dos Aguas 6, 46002 ∑ h-plazamayor.com
Partida Montiboli, 03570 Tel 963 94 02 51 Stay in smart, modern rooms
Tel 965 89 02 50 ∑ inglesboutique.com with parquet flooring and bare
∑ montiboli.com This tastefully furnished 18th- stone walls at this 19th-century
Facilities at this clifftop hotel with century palace offers affordable town house near Plaza Mayor.
spectacular sea views include rooms and excellent facilities.
two outdoor pools, a spa and a Mayerling Hotel €
gourmet restaurant. VILAFAMÉS: El Jardin Vertical €€ Boutique Map 4 F3
Historic Calle del Conde Ramanones 6, 28012
MURCIA: Arco de San Juan € Carrer Nou 15, 12192 Tel 914 20 15 80
Historic Tel 964 32 99 38 ∑ mayerlinghotel.com
Plaza de Ceballos 10, 30003 ∑ eljardinvertical.com A designer hotel with minimalist,
Tel 968 21 04 55 Refurbished 17th-century red- but comfortable, rooms. Free Wi-
∑ arcosanjuan.com stone house in a hilltop village, Fi and wheelchair accessible.
Next to Murcia’s cathedral, this amid olive and almond groves.
beautifully converted palace has Perfect for a relaxing holiday. Posada del León de Oro €
spacious rooms and a blend of Historic Map 4 E3
old and new furnishing styles. XÀBIA: Hotel Javea € Calle Cava Baja 12, 28005
Boutique Tel 911 19 14 94
ORIHUELA: Hotel Palacio Carrer Pío X 5, 03730 ∑ posadadelleondeoro.com
Tudemir € Tel 965 79 54 61 A 19th-century inn and restaurant
Luxury/Boutique ∑ hotel-javea.com with stylish rooms arranged
Calle Afonso XIII 1, 03330 A charming hotel with simple, around a traditional courtyard.
Tel 966 73 80 10 stylish rooms and wonderful
∑ hotelpalaciotudemir.com port views. Panoramic views Hotel Liabeny €€
In the historic centre of Orihuela, from the restaurant. Boutique Map 4 F1
this lovingly restored 18th- Calle de la Salud 3, 28013
century palace features a spa XÀTIVA: Hostería Mont Sant € Tel 915 31 90 00
and a gourmet restaurant. Historic ∑ liabeny.es
Subida al Castillo de Xàtiva s/n, 46800 Central hotel offering amenities
PENÍSCOLA: Hostería del Mar €€ Tel 962 27 50 81 such as a gym, sauna, restaurant
Historic ∑ mont-sant.com and free Wi-Fi. Very good value.
Avinguda Papa Luna 18, 12598 Beautifully restored, this convent
Tel 964 48 06 00 in citrus-filled gardens features Casa de Madrid €€€
∑ hosteriadelmar.net a spa and a restaurant. Ideal for Luxury Map 4 D2
Beachfront hotel with free Wi-Fi those seeking peace and quiet. Calle Arrieta 2 (2nd floor), 28013
and a garden with a seasonal Tel 915 59 57 91
outdoor pool. Most rooms have ∑ casademadrid.com
balconies. Minimum stay of seven Exquisite central guesthouse with
nights with half board in summer. Madrid a handful of antique-furnished
VALENCIA: Hostal Venecia € Old Madrid rooms and all modern comforts.
Historic Abracadabra € Bourbon Madrid
Plaza del Ayuntamiento 3, 46002 B&B Map 3 C4
Tel 963 52 42 67 Calle Bailén 39, 28005 Hotel One Shot Prado 23 €€
∑ hotelvenecia.com Tel 911 30 18 51 Boutique Map 7 B3
Well-run hotel in the heart of ∑ abracadabrasuites.com Calle del Prado 23, 28014
the city, with functional modern A warm, beautifully refurbished Tel 914 20 40 01
rooms, some with balconies guesthouse in the centre of ∑ hoteloneshotprado23.com
overlooking the square, free Madrid. Hardwood floors, neutral Chic rooms – some with balconies,
Wi-Fi and attentive service. shades and Moroccan touches and all with hardwood floors and
Wheelchair accessible. add charm to the rooms. free Wi-Fi – in this unique hotel.
Key to Price Guide see page 562

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WHERE T O ST A Y  569

Hotel Único €€ Each floor of this spectacular ÁVILA: Palacio de los Velada €€
Boutique Map 6 E3 hotel was designed by a different Historic
Calle Claudio Coello 67, 28001 celebrity architect. The top-floor Plaza de la Catedral 10, 05001
Tel 917 81 01 73 bar has superb views over Madrid. Tel 920 25 51 00
∑ unicohotelmadrid.com ∑ veladahoteles.com
An enchanting hotel with stylish Refurbished 16th-century palace
rooms and a Michelin-starred located close to the cathedral.
restaurant. Attentive service. Madrid Province Excellent restaurant, El Tostado.
Me Madrid Reina Victoria €€ CHINCHÓN: BURGOHONDO: Posada
Luxury Map 7 A3 Condesa de Chinchón € Real El Linar del Zaire €
Plaza de Santa Ana 14, 28012 Boutique Boutique
Tel 912 76 47 47 Calle de los Huertos 26, 28370 Carretera Avila-Casavieja 42B, 05113
∑ memadrid.com Tel 918 93 54 00 Tel 920 28 40 91
In a trendy location, this hotel ∑ condesadechinchon.com ∑ ellinardelzaire.com
has stunning rooms and suites, Beautiful little hotel with modern A great base for exploring the Valle
a rooftop bar and a restaurant. rooms and an excellent restaurant. del Alberche. Nearby activities
Conveniently located for Madrid. include canoeing and golf.
Hotel Hospes Puerta Alcalá €€€
Boutique Map 8 D1 SAN LORENZO DE EL ESCORIAL: BURGOS: Torre Berrueza €
Plaza de la Independencia 3, 28001 Hotel Posada Don Jaime € Boutique
Tel 914 32 29 11 Historic Calle Nuño Rasura 5, 09560,
∑ hospes.com Calle San Anton 24, 28200 Espinosa de los Monteros
Beautiful rooms, a fabulous spa Tel 918 96 52 18 Tel 610 34 23 04
and a gourmet restaurant in this ∑ posadadonjaime.es ∑ torreberrueza.es
19th-century converted mansion Traditionally decorated rooms, Housed in a 12th-century stone
in front of the Parque del Retiro. a lovely, plant-filled terrace and a tower, this hotel has a restaurant
seasonal plunge pool. serving traditional dishes.
DK Choice BURGOS: NH Collection
Hotel Ritz by Belmond €€€ Palacio de Burgos €€€
Luxury Map 7 C2 Castilla y León Historic
Plaza de la Lealtad 5, 28014 Calle de la Merced 13, 09002
Tel 917 01 67 67 AMPUDIA: Casa del Abad € Tel 947 47 99 00
∑ mandarinoriental.com/ Boutique ∑ nh-collection.com/es/hotel/nh-
ritzmadrid Plaza Francisco Martín Gromaz 12, collection-palacio-de-burgos
This opulent belle-époque-style 34191 This centrally located, 16th-
gem set in gardens right next Tel 979 76 80 08 century inn has exquisite rooms
to the Prado boasts a gilded ∑ casadelabad.com and a lovely gourmet restaurant.
interior and the rarefied air of Formerly an abbey, this iconic
another century. Elegant 17th-century building still retains CANDELADA: El Mirlo Blanco €
informal attire is requested in many of its original features. B&B
the hotel’s public areas. Excellent Carretera Candelada a Madrigal de
service and a splendid bar where ÁVILA: Hostel Puerta la Vera, km 2, 1, 05480
luminaries like Dalí and Lorca del Alcázar € Tel 902 10 40 00
once held court. B&B ∑ el-mirlo-blanco.com
Calle San Segundo 38, 05001 A rural hideaway with sauna and
Tel 920 21 10 74 Jacuzzi, plus massages, set amid
∑ puertadelalcazar.com abundant countryside.
Further Afield In front of the city walls, this hotel
Artrip Hotel €€ has a restaurant and a terrace CIRCO DE GREDOS: Refugio
Boutique Map 7 A5 with views over the cathedral. Laguna Grande €
Calle Valencia 11, 28012 B&B
Tel 915 39 32 82 Laguna de Gredos s/n, 05634
∑ artriphotel.com Tel 920 20 75 76
Modern hotel with exposed ∑ refugiolagunagrandede
brick walls, high ceilings and gredos.es
sleek, spacious rooms. This refuge offers basic dormitory
accommodation. The spectacular
Clement Barajas Hotel €€ mountain views make up for the
Boutique spartan environment.
Avenida General 43, 28042
Tel 917 46 03 30 LEÓN: NH Collection
∑ clementhoteles.com Plaza Mayor €
This hotel has bright rooms. Luxury
Convenient for Barajas Airport, Plaza Mayor 15–17, 24003
with a regular shuttle service. Tel 987 34 43 57
∑ nh-hotels.com
Silken Puerta América €€€ An ancient setting – in an 18th-
Luxury century building on the main
Avenida de América 41, 28002 square – meets modern design
Tel 917 44 54 00 Lavish interiors of the sitting area at this hotel with comfortable
∑ hoteles-silken.com at the Hotel Ritz by Belmond rooms and an elegant restaurant.
For more information on types of hotels see page 561
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570  TR A VELLERS ’ NEEDS

LUYEGO: Hosteria Camino € Refreshingly quiet chain hotel
Boutique situated in the heart of the city.
Calle Nuestra Señora de los Free Wi-Fi and a garden terrace.
Remedios 25, 24717
Tel 987 60 17 57 ZAMORA: Parador de Zamora €€
∑ hosteriacamino.com Luxury
Each room is named after a Plaza de Viriato 5, 49001
constellation at this charming Tel 980 51 44 97
hotel on the Camino de Santiago. ∑ parador.es
Suits of armour and tapestries
MEDINACELI: Hotel Medina adorn the interior at this parador
Salim € set in a medieval palace.
Boutique
Calle Barranco 15, 42240
Tel 975 32 69 74
∑ hotelmedinasalim.com Castilla-La Mancha
A modern building incorporating
the town’s old walls. Great views ALARCÓN: Parador de Alarcón €€€
and a spa (not included in rates). Entrance to one of the elegant and spotless Luxury
rooms at Hotel Rector, Salamanca Avda Amigos de los Castillos 3, 16214
PEDRAZA: Hospedería de Tel 969 33 03 15
Santo Domingo € SANTA MARÍA DE MAVE: ∑ parador.es
Inn El Convento de Mave € A medieval castle from the
Calle Matadero 3, 40172 Historic 8th century, perched on a cliff.
Tel 921 50 99 71 Calle Monasterio s/n, 34402 Stunning views of the Júcar river.
∑ hospederiadesantodomingo.com Tel 979 12 36 11
This hotel in the Jewish Quarter ∑ elconventodemave.com ALBACETE: Hotel Santa Isabel €€
offers superb views of the Sierra This 12th-century monastery has Luxury
de Guadarrama and the aqueduct. had a 21st-century makeover. Bike Avenida Gregorio Arcos s/n, 02007
rental available, plus workshops. Tel 967 26 46 80
PONFERRADA: Hotel Aroi ∑ hotelsantaisabelalbacete.com
Bierzo Plaza € SEGOVIA: Hotel Don Felipe € Stunning modern hotel with a
Boutique Historic vintage car collection in the
Plaza del Ayuntamiento 4, 24001 Calle de Daoiz 7, 40001 garage. Free Wi-Fi.
Tel 987 40 90 01 Tel 921 46 60 95
∑ aroihoteles.com ∑ hoteldonfelipe.es ALMADÉN: Plaza de Toros
Well-equipped rooms and two Set in a mansion, this serene de Almadén €
cosy restaurants serving regional hotel offers modern facilities Historic
fare. Ideal for exploring El Bierzo. and has a peaceful garden. Plaza Waldo Ferrer s/n,13400
Tel 926 26 43 33
PUEBLA DE SANABRIA: SOMAÉN: Posada Real de ∑ hotelplazadetoros.com
Posada de las Misas € Santa Quiteria €€ Enjoy comfortable, rustic and
Boutique Historic individually decorated rooms at
Plaza Mayor 13, 49300 Barrio Alto 8, 42257 this hotel in a former bull ring.
Tel 980 62 03 58 Tel 975 32 03 93
∑ posadadelasmisas.com ∑ posadasantaquiteria.com ALMAGRO: Hotel Casa
Beautiful views from this well- Rooms are beautifully decorated Grande Almagro €
located hotel. Guests have access at this enchanting country inn. Boutique
to the library and galleries. Calle Federico Relimpio 10, 13270
SORIA: Hotel Solar de Tejada € Tel 671 49 62 88
DK Choice Boutique ∑ casagrandealmagro.com
Calle Claustrilla 1, 42002
A 16th-century property, close
SALAMANCA: Hotel Rector €€ Tel 975 23 00 53 to Plaza Mayor and the famous
Boutique ∑ hosteriasolardetejada.es medieval theatre.
Paseo Rector Esperabé 10, 37008 Located in the heart of town,
Tel 923 21 84 82 this hotel offers individually ALMONACID DE TOLEDO:
∑ hotelrector.com decorated rooms and free Wi-Fi. Villa Nazules €
Formerly the mansion of a Luxury
distinguished local family, this TOLBANOS: Molino de Crta Almonacid a Chueca s/n, 45190
refined hotel oozes elegance los Gamusinos €€ Tel 925 59 03 80
but with a personal touch. The Boutique ∑ villanazules.com
rooms are cleaned twice daily. Camino del Molino s/n, 05289 Villa Nazules is a four-star hotel
Tel 920 22 77 14 boasting an excellent spa and
∑ losgamusinos.com wellness facilities.
SALAMANCA: NH Puerto This secluded hotel is an ideal
de la Catedral €€ retreat from where you can CUENCA: Convento del Giraldo €
Luxury explore the area. Historic
Plaza Juan XXIII 5, 37008 Calle San Pedro 12, 16001
Tel 923 28 08 29 VALLADOLID: Meliá Recoletos € Tel 969 23 27 00
∑ nh-hotels.com Boutique ∑ hotelconventodelgiraldo.com
This elegant chain hotel in the Calle Acera de Recoletos 13, 47004 This historic, charming building
historic quarter offers well- Tel 902 14 44 40 fuses 17th-century character with
appointed, contemporary rooms. ∑ melia.com comforting modern touches.
Key to Price Guide see page 562
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WHERE T O ST A Y  571

CUENCA: Parador de Cuenca €€ YESTE: Balneario de Tus € Bright, modern hotel in a 19th-
Historic Historic century town house within
Subida San Pablo s/n, 16001 Crta Yeste-Tus, km 13, 02485 walking distance of the Roman
Tel 969 23 23 20 Tel 967 43 68 17 sights. Spa and restaurant.
∑ parador.es ∑ balneariodetus.com
Housed in a former monastery A spa destination since Roman TRUJILLO: Eurostars Palacio
in the Hoz del Huécar gorge, times. Contemporary treatments de Santa Marta €
near Cuenca’s hanging houses. include hot mud wraps. Historic
Ballesteros 6, 10200
DK Choice Tel 927 65 91 90
∑ eurostarshotels.com
SIGÜENZA: Molino de Extremadura A 16th-century palace blending
Alcuneza €€ traditional features with modern
Historic ALANGE: Gran Hotel Aqualange € comforts. Many rooms have
Crta Alboreca, km 0.5, 19264 Rooms with a View views of the square or the castle.
Tel 949 39 15 01 Paseo de las Huertas 3, 06840
∑ molinodealcuneza.com Tel 924 36 56 08 DK Choice
This idyllic hotel is located ∑ balneariodealange.com
close to the medieval city of Unwind at this grand spa hotel ZAFRA: Casa Palacio
Sigüenza. The building dates next to the thermal Roman baths. Conde de La Corte €€
from the 14th century and once Closed Nov–mid-Mar. Boutique
served as a mill. The modern Plaza del Pilar Redondo 2, 06300
spa includes a hammam. BADAJOZ: NH Gran Hotel Tel 924 56 33 11
Casino de Extremadura €€ ∑ vivedespacio.com/
Luxury condedelacorte
TALAVERA DE LA REINA: Adolfo Diaz Ambrona 11, 06006 This 19th-century palace, the
Be Live City Center Talavera € Tel 924 28 44 02 former residence of the sixth
Boutique ∑ nh-hotels.com Count Corte of Berrona, has
Avenida de Toledo s/n, 45600 Ultramodern hotel in a quiet been restored to represent the
Tel 925 72 72 00 area by the river, with a spa and grandeur of that era. The decor
∑ belivehotels.com a classy restaurant with views. incorporates period features
Central, four-star hotel with bright, with modern amenities.
elegant rooms with expansive CÁCERES: Sercotel
views over the city. Extremadura Hotel €€
Luxury
TOLEDO: Hotel Santa Isabel € Avda Virgen de Guadalupe 28, 10001
Boutique Tel 927 62 96 39 Seville
Calle Santa Isabel 24, 45002 ∑ extremadurahotel.com El Arenal
Tel 925 25 31 20 Enjoy the peaceful surroundings
∑ hotelsantaisabeltoledo.es at this hotel near the city centre. Hispano Luz Confort €
In the 14th-century abode of a Free Wi-Fi, pool and a restaurant. B&B Map 3 C2
local noble, this hotel has a roof Calle Miguel Mañara 4, 41004
terrace with views over the city. JARANDILLA DE LA VERA: Tel 955 63 80 79
Parador de Jarandilla ∑ hotelhispanoluzsevilla.com
TOLEDO: Parador de Toledo €€ de la Vera €€ Rooms are comfortable and
Luxury Historic cheery at this hostel in a historic
Cerro del Emperador s/n, 45002 Avenida García Prieto 1, 10450 building next to the Real Alcázar.
Tel 925 22 18 50 Tel 927 56 01 17 Rooftop terrace, free Wi-Fi.
∑ parador.es ∑ parador.es
A vast establishment set on the This 14th-century palace, once Taberna del Alabardero €€
hillside with excellent views. the home of Charles V, has simple Historic Map 5 B3
Superb restaurant and a pool. rooms. Ideal for visiting Yuste. Calle Zaragoza 20, 41001
Tel 954 50 27 21
VALDEPEÑAS: Veracruz Plaza € MÉRIDA: Hotel Adealba € ∑ tabernadelalabardero.es
Boutique Boutique All rooms have hydromassage
Plaza Veracruz s/n, 13300 Romero Leal 18, 06800 baths, and there is a restaurant
Tel 926 31 30 00 Tel 924 38 83 08 serving Andalucían cuisine. Free
∑ hotelveracruzplaza.com ∑ hoteladealba.com Wi-Fi in the communal areas.
Indulge at the amazing spa –
with steam room, a Turkish
bath and treatments – at this
modern hotel.
VILLANUEVA DE LOS INFANTES:
La Morada de Juan de Vargas €
Boutique
Calle Cervantes 3, 13320
Tel 926 36 17 69
∑ lamoradadevargas.com
Rooms are individually decorated
at this charming establishment
in a 16th-century building. The
hotel is close to the main square. The warm-toned central courtyard of Taberna del Alabardero, Seville
For more information on types of hotels see page 561
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572  TR A VELLERS ’ NEEDS

Santa Cruz This hotel is housed within a Ecofriendly hotel with avant-garde
beautifully restored 18th-century interior furnishings. Seasonal

DK Choice sacristy. Rooms, decorated with outdoor pool (open Jun–Sep)
and direct access to the beach.
period furniture, feature wooden
Casa Numero Siete €€ or marble floors. Fine restaurant
Boutique Map 6 E3 and free Wi-Fi. CAÑOS DE MECA: La Breña €€
Calle Virgenes 7, 41004 Boutique
Tel 954 22 15 81 Avenida Trafalgar 4, 11149
∑ casanumero7.com Tel 956 43 73 68
Discover luxury in a 19th-century Andalucía ∑ hotelbrena.com
mansion in the heart of Seville’s Spacious, shabby-chic rooms,
evocative Old Quarter. The decor ARACENA: Finca Buen Vino €€ some with sea views, and a
at this small but immaculate B&B charming terrace overlooking the
guesthouse includes antiques Carretera N433, km 95, 21208 ocean. Seasonal outdoor pool.
and family heirlooms. Relax in Tel 959 12 40 34
the elegant lounge and enjoy ∑ fincabuenvino.com DK Choice
the discreet but friendly service. Established hilltop guesthouse
offering spacious, individually CARMONA: Parador
furnished rooms and self- de Carmona €€
Alfonso XIII €€€ catering cottages. Famed for its Luxury
Historic Map 3 C3 cuisine and cookery courses. Calle Alcazar s/n, 41410
Calle San Fernando 2, 41004 Tel 954 14 10 10
Tel 954 91 70 00 ARCOS DE LA FRONTERA: ∑ parador.es
∑ hotel-alfonsoxiii-seville.com Casa Grande € Originally a Moorish fortress,
This spectacular hotel combines Historic this parador has a stunning
Mudejar architecture with Calle Maldonaldo 10, 11360 hilltop location and majestic
modern comforts. Work out in Tel 956 70 39 30 interiors decorated with
the fitness centre, relax in the ∑ lacasagrande.net tapestries and antiques. The
sauna or the seasonal outdoor A gleaming whitewashed 18th- rooms are comfortable and
swimming pool, or enjoy a century mansion with splendid stylish. Relax in the outdoor
cocktail on the terrace. views of the Andalucían country- swimming pool (seasonal).
side. Family rooms available. Warm and friendly service.
Las Casas del Rey de Baeza €€€ Good breakfast spread.
Boutique Map 6 E2
Plaza Jesús de la Redención 2, 41003 ARCOS DE LA FRONTERA: CASTELLAR DE LA FRONTERA:
Tel 954 56 14 96 Parador de Arcos Casa Convento La Almoraima €
∑ hospes.com de la Frontera €€ Historic
Stylish hotel with chic bedrooms Historic Carretera Algeciras-Ronda s/n, Finca
and Colonial-style furniture. Lovely Plaza del Cabildo, 11630 la Almoraima, 11350
rooftop pool, plus an open-air Tel 956 70 05 00 Tel 956 69 30 50
patio and spa. ∑ parador.es ∑ laalmoraimahotel.com
Stay in spacious rooms, some A former monastery turned into
EME Catedral Hotel €€€ with a Jacuzzi, in a converted a modern hotel, with a seasonal
Luxury Map 6 D4 magistrate’s mansion with a outdoor pool and free Wi-Fi.
Calle Alemanes 27, 41004 beautiful inner courtyard and
Tel 954 56 00 00 fabulous views from the terrace. CAZORLA: Molino la Farraga €
∑ emecatedralhotel.com The restaurant serves gluten-free Historic
Four great restaurants, a cocktail and vegetarian options. Camino de la Hoz, 23470
bar, a rooftop pool and a terrace Tel 953 72 12 49
with fabulous views are among CÁDIZ: Hotel Playa Victoria €€ ∑ molinolafarraga.com
the attractions at his central Boutique A restored 200-year-old mill set
hotel with a spa. Glorieta Ingeniero La Cierva 4, in tranquil gardens. The property
11010 includes a small farm, a botanical
Further Afield Tel 956 20 51 00 garden and a vegetable patch
for guests to enjoy.
∑ palafoxhoteles.com
Patio de la Alameda €
B&B Map 2 D4
Alameda de Hercules 56, 41002
Tel 954 90 49 99
∑ patiodelaalameda.com
This hotel offers mosaic-tiled
bathrooms and Baroque mirrors
in rooms set around three
courtyards. The rooftop terrace
has a chill-out bar with views of
the historic surroundings. Free
Wi-Fi in the communal areas.
Casa Sacristia de Santa Ana €€
Historic Map 2 D4
Alameda de Hercules 22, 41002
Tel 954 91 57 22
∑ hotelsacristia.com View from the roof terrace at Casa Grande, Arcos de la Frontera
Key to Price Guide see page 562
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WHERE T O ST A Y  573

CAZORLA: Parador de Cazorla € MAZAGÓN: Parador
Luxury de Mazagón €€
Calle Sierra de Cazorla s/n, 23470 Luxury
Tel 953 72 70 75 Carretera San Juan-Matalascañas,
∑ parador.es km 30, 21120
Vintage parador in the heart of Tel 959 53 63 00
the pine-forested Parque Natural ∑ parador.es
de Cazorla. There is a gallery of Comfortable parador set amid
mounted animals in the lobby. pinewoods in a stunning location
Closed Jan–mid-Feb. overlooking a pristine Atlantic
beach. Indoor and outdoor pools.
CÓRDOBA: Hotel Maestre €
Inn MIJAS: Hotel Hacienda
Calle Romero Barros 4–6, 17003 Puerta del Sol €
Tel 957 47 24 10 Luxury
∑ hotelmaestre.com Crta Fuengirola-Mijas, km 4, 29650
A classic hotel with a flower-filled Tel 952 48 64 00
patio. Simple rooms and self- ∑ hhpuertadelsol.es
catering apartments on offer. A wood-panelled ceiling and bed canopy in Stylish hotel with tennis courts,
Free Wi-Fi. a room at La Bobadilla, Loja gym and open-air pools. Family
rooms and free Wi-Fi.
CÓRDOBA: Hospes Palacio A comfortable rural hotel inside
de Bailio €€€ the Grazalema Nature Reserve, MONACHIL: La Almunia
Boutique with good children’s facilities. del Valle €€
Calle Ramirez de las Casas Ideal for outdoor types. Boutique
Deza 10–12, 14001 Camino de la Umbria, 18193
Tel 957 49 89 93 JAÉN: Parador de Jaén €€ Tel 958 30 80 10
∑ hospes.com Historic ∑ laalmuniadelvalle.com
Magnificently restored 17th- Castillo de Santa Catalina s/n, 23002 Small and friendly retreat high in
century palace with elegant Tel 953 23 00 00 the Sierra Nevada. Pretty gardens
furnishings and beautiful ∑ parador.es and an open-air pool.
gardens. Amenities include a Hilltop parador set in a renovated
spa, outdoor pool and free Wi-Fi. 18th-century castle with Arabic- NERJA: El Carabeo €
style rooms. Panoramic views, Boutique
GIBRALTAR: Rock Hotel €€ seasonal outdoor pool and lush Calle Hernando de Carabeo 34, 29780
Historic gardens. Free Wi-Fi. Tel 952 52 54 44
Europa Road 3, 30339 ∑ hotelcarabeo.com
Tel 956 77 30 00 LOJA: La Bobadilla €€€ All the suites here have private
∑ rockhotelgibraltar.com Luxury terraces overlooking the garden
A 70-year-old cliffside Colonial- Carretera Salinas–Villanueva de Tapia and sea. Book-filled lounge, plus
style hotel with a nostalgic aura (A-333), km 65.5, Finca Bobadillo, a restaurant and seasonal pool.
and stately guest rooms. Free 18300
Wi-Fi; wheelchair accessible. Tel 958 32 18 61 OJEN: Posada del Angel €
∑ barcelolabobadilla.com Inn
GRANADA: Posada del Toro € All rooms and suites in this plush Calle Mesones 21, 29610
Inn hotel have a unique decor. Tel 952 88 18 08
Elvira 25, 18010 Facilities include outdoor and ∑ laposadadelangel.net
Tel 958 22 73 33 indoor pools, a spa and a fitness A charming hotel with Moorish
∑ posadadeltoro.com room, as well as numerous touches and lovely terraces. Each
Renovated 19th-century inn activities. Free Wi-Fi. room is individually decorated.
blending old charm and modern Seasonal outdoor pool.
comforts. Wi-Fi in all rooms. In MÁLAGA: Salles Hotel €€
the historic centre, right on the Luxury ORGIVA: Taray Botánico €
edge of the Albaicín. Calle Marmoles 6, 29007 Rooms with a View
Tel 952 07 02 16 Crta A348 Tablete-Abuñol, 18400
GRANADA: Parador ∑ salleshotel.com Tel 958 78 45 25
de Granada €€€ In the heart of Málaga, this well- ∑ hoteltaray.com
Luxury appointed hotel has a seasonal Whitewashed rural hotel with an
Calle Real de la Alhambra, 18009 rooftop pool, plus free Wi-Fi and olive- and orange-filled garden.
Tel 958 22 12 40 family rooms. Facilities available for guests with
∑ parador.es disabilities, plus seasonal pools.
This parador enjoys an MARBELLA: Marbella
incomparable location inside the Club Hotel €€€ PALMA DEL RIO: Monasterio
grounds of the Alhambra Palace. Luxury de San Francisco €
Elegantly appointed rooms. Bulevar Príncipe Alfonso von Historic
Hohenlohe, 29600 Avenida del Pio XII 35, 14700
GRAZALEMA: Hotel Tel 952 82 22 11 Tel 957 71 01 83
Fuerte Grazalema € ∑ marbellaclub.com ∑ intergrouphoteles.com
Inn Deluxe beachside hotel with lush A romantic hotel in a 15th-
Baldio de los Alamillos, Carretera gardens, pools, world-class golf century monastery with lovely
A372, km 53, 11610 course and spa. The Kids’ Club has gardens and an inner courtyard.
Tel 956 13 30 00 a music room, dance studio and Rooms are simple but spacious.
∑ fuertehoteles.com other forms of entertainment. Restaurant and outdoor pool.
For more information on types of hotels see page 561
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574  TR A VELLERS ’ NEEDS

TARIFA: Hurricane Hotel €€ IBIZA, SANT JOAN DE LABRITJA:
Boutique The Giri Residence €€€
Carretera N-340, km 78, 11380 Boutique
Tel 956 68 49 19 Carrer Principal 3–5, 07810
∑ hotelhurricane.com Tel 971 33 33 45
Laid-back Moorish-style hotel ∑ thegiri.com
with lush gardens, two pools, a A fashionable getaway combining
gym, sauna and massage facilities. Moroccan interiors with a relaxed
ambience. Closed Nov–Apr.
ÚBEDA: Zenit El Postigo €
Inn MALLORCA, DEIÁ:
Calle El Postigo 5, 23400 Belmond La Residencia €€€
Tel 953 75 00 00 Luxury
∑ elpostigo.zenithoteles.com Son Canals s/n, 07179
Comfortable modern hostelry Tel 971 63 90 11
with amenities including a cosy ∑ belmond.com
winter fireplace and summer pool. A renowned art hotel in two
Spectacular old-world setting at Belmond ancient manors, with a sculpture
La Residencia in Deiá, Mallorca VEJER DE LA FRONTERA: garden. Closed Nov–Mar.
La Casa del Califa €€
PECHINA: Hotel Balneario Boutique MALLORCA, PALMA:
de Sierra de Alhamilla € Plaza de España 16, 11150 Hotel Feliz €€
Historic Tel 956 44 77 30 Boutique
Calle Los Baños s/n, 04259 ∑ califavejer.com Avinguda Joan Miró 74, 07015
Tel 950 31 74 13 Wander through a labyrinth of Tel 971 28 88 47
∑ balneariosierraalhamilla.es alcoves and passageways to find ∑ hotelfeliz.com
Well-restored 18th-century spa cozy sitting rooms, a games room This bright hotel by the harbour
hotel that has a thermal pool with and a terrace with fabulous views. has tasteful rooms, a roof terrace
underwater jets. Lovely courtyards. with a hot tub and a restaurant.
PRIEGO DE CÓRDOBA: MALLORCA, POLLENÇA:
Casa Olea € The Balearic Islands Hotel Posada de Lluc €
Inn Boutique
Crta CO-231/CO-7204, Zamoranos FORMENTERA, ES CALÓ: Roser Vell 11, 07460
Tel 696 74 82 09 Hotel Entre Pinos €€€ Tel 971 53 52 20
∑ casaolea.com B&B ∑ posadalluc.com
A traditional Andalucían cortijo Carretera La Mola, km 12.3, 07872 Rooms in this old building feature
(farmhouse) with luxurious bed- Tel 971 32 70 19 original stone walls and beamed
ding and underfloor heating. ∑ hotelentrepinos.es ceilings. Bike rental available.
Wonderful views from the pool, A relaxed, family-run hotel near
garden and terrace. Lounge with two stunning beaches. Outdoor DK Choice
fireplace in winter. Free Wi-Fi. pool and spa services available.
MALLORCA, POLLENÇA:
PUERTO DE SANTA MARIA: FORMENTERA, LA SAVINA: Son Brull €€€
Monasterio de San Miguel € Hostal La Savina € Boutique
Historic B&B Carretera Palma–Pollença PM
Calle Virgen de los Milagros 27, 11500 Avinguda Mediterranea 20–40, 07870 220, km 49.8, 07460
Tel 956 54 04 40 Tel 971 32 22 79 Tel 971 53 53 53
∑ monasteriosanmiguelhotel.com ∑ hostal-lasavina.com ∑ sonbrull.com
This former Capuchin monastery Charming family-run hotel on the A family-run spa-hotel in an
offers simple rooms, spacious beach, with simple, whitewashed old farmstead, Son Brull is
gardens and lush public areas for rooms, many with sea views. surrounded by nature. Each of
contemplation, plus a large pool. the rooms is tastefully decorated
IBIZA, IBIZA CITY: with subtle Mallorcan touches.
SAN JOSÉ: Cortijo el Sotillo €€ Mirador de Dalt Vila €€€ Excellent restaurant.
Historic Historic
Carretera San Jose, 04118 Plaça Espanya 4, 07800
Tel 950 61 11 00 Tel 971 30 30 45 MALLORCA, PORTIXOL:
∑ cortijoelsotillo.es ∑ hotelmiradoribiza.com Portixol €€€
Relaxed 18th-century farmhouse Sumptuous 19th-century palace Boutique
in the Cabo de Gata natural park. with elegant rooms and a small Calle Sirena, 07006
Good restaurant and outdoor pool. pool, plus an excellent restaurant. Tel 971 27 18 00
∑ portixol.com
SANLUCAR LA MAYOR: IBIZA, PORTINATX: One of the island’s most stylish
Exe Gran Hotel Solucar € Sandos El Greco €€ hotels. Chic rooms, many with a
Inn Luxury terrace, plus pool and restaurant.
Carretera Nac. Sevilla–Huelva A472 Cala Portinatx s/n, 07810
s/n, Sanlucar la Mayor, 41800 Tel 971 32 05 70 MENORCA, CALA MORELL:
Tel 955 70 34 08 ∑ sandos.com Agroturisme Biniatram €
∑ exegranhotelsolucar.com All-inclusive, adults-only resort B&B
Airy rooms with basic amenities. with a great location in Portinatx Carretera Cala Morell, km 1, 07760
Guests can enjoy breakfast at Bay. Amenities include a water Tel 971 38 31 13
the lovely poolside courtyard. park, pool and buffet restaurant. ∑ biniatram.com
Key to Price Guide see page 562
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WHERE T O ST A Y  575

This peaceful farmhouse boasts DK Choice Take a dip on Los Cancajos’ black-
inviting rooms and well-equipped sand beach or in the hotel’s
apartments, along with a pool. GRAN CANARIA, seawater pool, shaped like a
ARGUINEGUÍN: lake. All rooms are self-catering.
MENORCA, ES CASTELL: Radisson Blu Resort €€€
Sant Joan de Binissaida €€€ Luxury LA PALMA, TAZACORTE:
Boutique Barranco de la Verga s/n, 35120 Hotel Hacienda de Abajo €€
Camí de Binissaida 108, 07720 Tel 928 15 06 06 Boutique
Tel 971 35 55 98 ∑ radissonblu.com Calle Miguel de Unamuno 11, 38770
∑ binissaida.com Located on the top of a cliff, this Tel 922 40 60 00
An idyllic rural hotel in an 18th- is one of Gran Canaria’s most ∑ hotelhaciendadeabajo.com
century farmhouse, with vast stylish hotels. Enjoy sweeping An opulent, antiques-filled 17th-
grounds, a pool and a restaurant. views of the Atlantic from the century sugar estate. Most rooms
rooms, restaurants and pools. have a balcony, terrace or garden.
MENORCA, MAHÓN: Relax on the beaches nearby
Hostal La Isla €€ or in the on-site bijou spa. LANZAROTE, ARRIETA:
B&B Finca de Arrieta €
Santa Caterina 4, 07701 Boutique
Tel 971 36 64 92 GRAN CANARIA, MARZAGAN: Diseminado Arrieta 1, 35542
∑ hostal-laisla.com Hotel El Mondalón € Tel 928 82 67 20
This family-run guesthouse offers Boutique ∑ lanzaroteretreats.com
comfortable rooms and packed Carretera de los Hoyos, GC–801 Quirky eco retreat powered by
lunches on request. Great value. 1800pk, 35017 clean energy. Villas and yurts
Tel 928 35 57 58 feature all modern comforts.
∑ hotelruralmondalon.es
This countryside hotel features LANZAROTE, COSTA TEGUISE:
The Canary Islands a games room, heated outdoor Sands Beach Resort €
pool with a waterfall and a Rooms with a View
EL HIERRO, SABINOSA: children’s play area. Avenida Islas Canarias 18, 35508
Balneario Pozo de la Salud € Tel 928 59 58 20
Rooms with a View LA GOMERA, PLAYA DE ∑ sandsbeach.eu
El Pozo de la Salud s/n, 38911 SANTIAGO: Jardín Tecina €€ Self-catering apartments with a
Tel 922 55 95 61 Luxury resort full of amenities and a spa.
Relax with the sound of the sea Lomada de Tecina s/n, 38811 Full entertainment programme,
at this hotel with sleek, modern Tel 922 14 58 50 as well as a Kids’ Club.
rooms, a spa and outdoor pool. ∑ jardin-tecina.com
Close to the airport, the Jardín TENERIFE, GARACHICO:
EL HIERRO, VALVERDE: Tecina has a large garden, pool Hotel San Roque €€
Parador de El Hierro € and fitness centre. Each room has Historic
Luxury a private terrace with a view. Calle Esteban de Ponte 32, 38450
Las Playas 15, 38910 Tel 922 13 34 35
Tel 922 55 80 36 LA GOMERA, SAN SEBASTIÁN: ∑ hotelsanroque.com
∑ parador.es Parador de la Gomera €€ A lovingly restored 18th-century
A tranquil, modern hotel with a Luxury manor house offering elegant
garden featuring palms. Ask for Lomo de la Horca s/n, 38800 rooms with Charles Rennie
a room with a sea view. Hot tub, Tel 922 87 11 00 Mackintosh furniture.
outdoor pool and a fitness centre. ∑ parador.es
Traditional Canarian building, TENERIFE, PUERTO DE LA CRUZ:
FUERTEVENTURA, CORRALEJO: with an outdoor pool and Hotel Botanico €€
Gran Hotel Atlantis stunning views of neighbouring Luxury
Bahia Real €€€ Tenerife, including Mount Teide. Avenida Richard J. Yeoward 1, 38400
Luxury Tel 922 38 14 00
Avenida Grandes Playas s/n, 35660 LA PALMA, BREÑA BAJA: ∑ hotelbotanico.com
Tel 928 53 71 53 Hacienda San Jorge € A plush five-star hotel with a
∑ bahiarealresort.com Boutique range of suites, restaurants and
Five-star hotel right on the sea- Playa de Los Cancajos 22, 38712 leisure facilities. Or simply lose
front, with stunning views, two Tel 922 18 10 66 yourself and all track of time in
pools set in lush gardens, six ∑ hsanjorge.com the Oriental Spa Garden.
restaurants and a spa.
FUERTEVENTURA, VILLAVERDE:
Hotel Rural Mahoh €
B&B
Sitio de Juan Bello, 35660
Tel 928 86 80 50
∑ mahoh.com
Housed in a 19th-century country
manor fashioned out of volcanic
stone and wood, surrounded
by gardens. Pool and equestrian
school, plus a games room with
a large multilingual library. Buffet
breakfast included. Agroturisme Biniatram’s stunning pool and landscaped gardens in Cala Morell, Menorca
For more information on types of hotels see page 561
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576  TR A VELLERS ’ NEEDS

WHERE TO EAT AND DRINK

One of the joys of eating out in Spain is the of top­quality gourmet restaurants, notably
sheer sociability of the Spanish. Family and in the Basque Country. The restaurants listed
friends, often with children in tow, can be on pages 582–605 have been selected for
seen eating out from early in the day until their food and conviviality. Pages 578–81
after midnight. The country’s food has a illustrate some of the best tapas and drinks
highly regional bias and traditional restau­ on offer; and the book’s five regional sections
rants will typically serve dishes based on include features on each area’s unique food
local produce. Spain also has its fair share and wines.


Many work places allow their or beer. In Spain la cena (dinner
staff to have a break for or supper) begins at about 9 or
breakfast between 10 and 10pm. Restaurants sometimes
11am, which is why cafés are begin their evening service
often busy mid-morning. This earlier for tourists. In summer,
meal may consist of a savoury however, Spanish families and
snack, such as a bocadillo groups of friends often do not
(sandwich) with sausage, sit down to eat until as late
ham or cheese, a thick slice as midnight. At weekend
of tortilla de patatas (potato lunchtimes, especially in
omelette) or a churro (fried summer, you may find that
batter stick). Fruit juice, restaurants are filled by large
coffee or beer are the and noisy family gatherings.
usual accompaniments.
During the week, people
take a break for la comida How to Dress
An elaborately decorated bar, with a (lunch) at about 2pm. This is A jacket and tie are rarely
variety of drinks on offer, Barcelona the main meal of the day. required, but the Spanish
From about 1pm at dress smartly, especially
Restaurants and Bars
weekends, people will Decorative lamp for city restaurants. Day
The cheapest and quickest stop in the bars for a beer in a bar dress is casual in beach
places to eat are the bars and or a copa (glass) of wine resorts, but shorts are
cafés that serve tapas. However, with tapas. This tradition is frowned upon in the evenings.
not all bars serve food. This is called irse de cañas (caña is a
especially true of pubs, which type of beer). The cafés, salones
are more about drinking and de té (tearooms) and pastelerías Reading the Menu
socializing. Family-run bar- (pastry shops) fill up by about Aside from tapas, perhaps the
restaurantes, ventas, posadas, 5:30 or 6pm for la merienda (tea) cheapest eating options in
mesones and fondas – all old of sandwiches, pastries or cakes, Spanish restaurants are the
words for the different types of with coffee, tea or juice. By 9pm, platos combinados (meat or fish
inns – serve inexpensive, sit- bars are crowded with people with vegetables and, usually,
down meals. Chiringuitos are having tapas with sherry, wine chips) and the fixed-price menú
beachside bars that open only
during the summer season.
Most restaurants close one day
a week, some for lunch or dinner
only, and most for an annual
holiday. Away from the tourist
areas, a few also close on some
public holidays. Always call the
restaurant ahead to check.

Eating Hours in Spain
Some Spanish people have
breakfast (desayuno) first thing
in the morning, at home. This is
a light meal of biscuits or toast
with olive oil or butter and jam
and café con leche (milky coffee). Designer tapas bar in Barcelona




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WHERE T O EA T AND DRINK  577


Cheques are never used in
Spain. The major credit cards
and international direct debit
cards are accepted in most
restaurants, but sometimes
not in smaller places like tapas
bars, cafés or bodegas.

Smoking
Smoking is banned inside
all bars and restaurants.
However, it is permitted
on outside terraces.
Dining alfresco at tables on a café terrace
Wheelchair Access
del día. A plato combinado is only Rioja, Navarra or Penedès. A
offered by cheaper establish- bar might serve wines from New restaurants are designed
ments. Most restaurants offer Valdepeñas or the local vine- for wheelchairs, but phone in
an inexpensive, fixed-price menú yards. Oloroso wines (see p581) advance to check on access
del día at lunchtime, normally are often ordered as a digestif. to tables and toilets.
of three courses, but with little
choice. Some restaurants offer a
menú de degustación consisting Prices and Paying Recommended
Restaurants
of a choice of six or seven of the If you order from la carta in a
head chef’s special dishes. restaurant, your bill can soar The restaurants in this guide
The Spanish word for menu way above the price of the have been selected for a variety
is la carta. It starts with sopas menú del día, especially if you of criteria including good food,
(soups), ensaladas (salads), order pricey items such as fresh service and location. They range
entremeses (hors d’oeuvres), seafood, fish or jamon ibérico from down-to-earth tapas bars
huevos y tortillas (eggs and (see p422). If there is an expensive to coastal places specializing
omelettes) and verduras y fish such as sole or swordfish on in seafood and inland locales
legumbres (vegetable dishes). the menu at a bargain price, featuring country fare, to
Main courses are pescados y it will be frozen. Sea bass and sophisticated establishments
mariscos (fish and shellfish) and shellfish such as large prawns, with tasting menus prepared
carnes y aves (meat and poultry). lobster and crab, are priced by leading chefs. Places serving
Daily specials are chalked on by weight as a rule. The price Modern Spanish food offer
a board or clipped to menus. ranges given in this guide apply contemporary versions of
Paella and other rice dishes may to the regular menu, but if you traditional classics, whereas
be served as the first course. have tapas it is usually cheaper. places we have decribed as
A useful rule is to follow rice La cuenta (the bill) includes Traditional Spanish serve
with meat, or start with serrano service and perhaps a small more conventional fare, such
ham or salad and then follow cover charge. Prices on menus as stews and fish dishes.
with a paella. do not always include VAT (IVA), Any entry highlighted as
Desserts are called postres in so 10 per cent may be added to DK Choice offers something
Spanish. These can include fruit, the total bill. The Spanish hardly that distinguishes it from the
natillas (custard) and flan (crème ever tip restaurant waiters more masses, be it a celebrity chef,
caramel). Gourmet restaurants than 5 per cent, often just sensational food, unusual
have more creative choices. rounding up the bill. location or unique menu.
In big cities such as Madrid
there’s an increasing number
of good vegetarian restaurants.
Most menus have at least
one vegetable or egg dish.
A good number of places
welcome children.

Wine Choices
Dry fino wines go with shellfish,
serrano ham, olives, soups and
most first courses. Main courses
are usually accompanied by
wines from Ribera del Duero, Extensive choice of wine on show at a restaurant in Santander




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578  TR A VELLERS ’ NEEDS


Choosing Tapas

Tapas, sometimes called pinchos, are small snacks that originated
in Andalucía in the 19th century to accom pany sherry.
Stemming from a bartender’s practice of covering a glass
with a saucer or tapa (cover) to keep out flies, the custom
progressed to a chunk of cheese or bread being used, and then to
a few olives being placed on a platter to accompany a drink. Once free
of charge, tapas are usually paid for nowadays (except in cities like Granada Mixed green olives
and León) and a selec tion makes a delicious light meal. Choose from cold
meats to elaborately prepared hot dishes of meat, seafood or vegetables.

Patatas bravas is a Albóndigas (meatballs) are
piquant dish of fried a hearty tapa, often served
potatoes with with a spicy tomato sauce.
a spicy
red sauce.

Almendras
fritas are fried,
salted almonds.






Banderillas are
canapés skewered
on toothpicks.
The entire
canapé
Calamares fritos are should be
squid rings and tentacles eaten at once.
which have been dusted with
flour before being deep-fried in olive Jamón serrano is salt-cured
oil. They are usually served garnished ham dried in mountain
with a piece of lemon. (serrano) air.


On the Tapas Bar
Almejas Clams Callos Tripe Croquetas Croquettes of ham,
Berberechos Steamed cockles Caracoles Snails seafood, chicken or vegetables
Berenjenas al horno Roasted Champiñones al ajillo Empanada Pastry filled with
aubergines (eggplants) Mushrooms fried in white wine tomato, onion and meat or fish
Boquerones Anchovies with garlic Ensaladilla rusa Potatoes, carrots,
Boquerones al natural Fresh Chistorra Spicy sausage red peppers, peas, olives, boiled
anchovies in garlic and olive oil egg, tuna and mayonnaise
Chopitos Cuttlefish fried in batter
Buñuelos de bacalao Salted Chorizo al vino Chorizo sausage Gambas al pil pil Spicy, garlicky
cod fritters fried king prawns (shrimp)
cooked in red wine
Butifarra Catalonian sausage Longaniza roja Spicy red pork
Chorizo diablo Chorizo served
Calabacín rebozado Battered flamed with brandy sausage from Aragón (Longaniza
courgettes (zucchini) (Catalan) blanca is paler and less spicy)
Calamares a la romana Fried Costillas Spare ribs Magro Pork in a paprika and
squid rings Criadillas Bulls’ testicles tomato sauce





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REST A UR ANT S AND BARS  579



Tapas Bars
Even a small village will have at least one bar where the
locals go to enjoy drinks, tapas and conversation with
friends. On Sundays and hol idays, favourite places are
packed with whole families enjoying the fare. In larger
towns it is customary to move from bar to bar, sampling
the specialities of each. A tapa is a single serving,
whereas a ración is similar to an entrée-sized portion.
Tapas are usually eaten standing or perching on a
stool at the bar rather that sitting at a table, for which
a surcharge is usually made. Diners make their choice at a busy tapas bar

Chorizo, a popular Salpicón de
sausage flavoured with mariscos
paprika and garlic, may is a
be eaten cold or fried luxurious
and served hot. cold salad of
assorted fresh seafood
in a zesty vinaigrette.











Gambas a la plancha is a
simple but flavourful dish of
grilled prawns (shrimp).
Tortilla española is the ubiquitous
Spanish omelette of onion and potato
bound with egg.
Queso
manchego Pollo al ajillo consists of small pieces of
is a sheep’s-milk chicken (often wings) sauted and then
cheese from La Mancha. simmered with a garlic sauce.


Manitas de cerdo Pig’s trotters Patatas alioli Potato chunks in a Sepia a la plancha Grilled
Mejillones Mussels garlic mayonnaise cuttlefish
Morcilla Black (blood) pudding Pescadito fritos Small fried fish Sesos Brains, usually lamb or calf
Muslitos del mar Crab-meat Pimientos de padrón Small green Surtido de Ibéricos Assortment
croquettes, on a claw skewer peppers which are occasionally hot of cold cuts/charcuterie
Navajas Grilled razor-shells Pimientos rellenos Stuffed
peppers Tabla de quesos A range of
Orejas de cerdo Pig’s ears Spanish cheeses
Pinchos morunos Pork skewers
Pa amb tomàquet Bread Tortilla riojana Ham, sausage and
rubbed with olive oil and Pisto Thick ratatouille of diced red pepper omelette
tomatoes (Catalan) tomato, onion and courgette
Pan de ajo Garlic bread Pulpitos Baby octopus Tostas Bread with various toppings
Patatas a lo pobre Potato Rabo de toro Oxtail such as tuna or Brie
chunks sautéd with onions and Revueltos Scrambled eggs with Verdura a la plancha Grilled
red and green peppers shrimp, cod or vegetables vegetables






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580  TR A VELLERS ’ NEEDS

What to Drink in Spain

Spain is one of the world’s largest wine-producing countries
and many fine wines are made here, particularly reds in
La Rioja and sherry in Andalucía. Many other beverages –
alcoholic and non-alcoholic – are served in bars and cafés,
which provide an important focus for life in Spain. The
Spanish are also great coffee drinkers. In the summer,
a tempting range of cooling drinks is on offer, in addition
to beer, which is always available. Brandy and a variety of
liqueurs, such as anís, are drunk as apéritifs and digestifs, Customers enjoying a drink at a terrace
as is chilled pale gold fino sherry.
café in Seville
Hot chocolate
A plate of churros
(batter sticks)

Café con leche Camomile Lime flower
Hot Drinks
Café con leche is a large half-and-half measure of milk and
espresso coffee; café cortado is an espresso with a splash of
milk; café solo is a black coffee. Hot chocolate is also popular
and is often served with churros (batter sticks). Herbal teas
include manzanilla (camomile) and tila (lime flower).
Cold Drinks
In most Spanish towns and cities it is safe to drink the tap
water, but people generally prefer to buy bottled mineral
water, either still (sin gas) or sparkling (con gas). Besides soft
drinks, a variety of other thirst-quenching summer beverages
is available, including horchata (see p257),
a sweet, milky drink made from ground
chufas (earth almonds). Another
popular refreshing drink is leche
merengada (lemon and cinnamon
flavoured milk ice cream). Gaseosa, fizzy
lemonade, can be drunk either on its own
or as a mixer, usually with wine. Zumo de
naranja natural (freshly squeezed orange Horchata, made
Sparkling and still mineral water juice) is an excellent thirst quencher. from chufas
Spanish Wine
Wine has been produced in Spain since pre-
Roman times and there is a great variety on
offer today, including famous types such as
Rioja. The key standard for the industry is the
Denominación de Origen (DO) classi fication,
a guarantee of a wine’s origin and quality.
Vino de la Tierra is a classification of wines
below that of DO in which over 60 per cent
of the grapes come from a specified region.
Vino de Mesa, the lowest category, covers
basic unclassified wines. For more detailed
information on Spain’s principal wine-
producing regions, refer to the following
pages: Northern Spain (see pp82–3), Eastern
Spain (see pp206–7), Central Spain (see Penedès
pp344–5), and Southern Spain (see pp424–5). white wine Rioja red wine Sparkling wine (cava)




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WHERE T O EA T AND DRINK  581

Spirits and Liqueurs
Spanish brandy, which comes mainly
from the sherry bodegas in Jerez, is
known as coñac. Most bodegas pro duce
at least three different labels and price
ranges. Magno is a good middle-shelf
brandy; top-shelf labels are Cardenal
Mendoza and Duque de Alba. Anís, which
is flavoured with aniseed, is popular.
Pacharán, made from sloes, is sweet
and also tastes of aniseed. Licor 43 is a
vanilla liqueur. Ponche is brandy that
has been aged and flavoured with herbs.
Anís Pacharán Licor 43 Ponche
Sherry and Vermouth
Sherry, or fino, is produced in bodegas in Jerez de la Frontera
(Andalucía) and in nearby towns El Puerto de Santa María and Sanlúcar de
Barrameda (see pp424–5). Similar kinds of wine are pro duced in Montilla near
Córdoba. Pale fino is dry and light and excel lent as an apéritif, while amber
amontillado (aged fino) has a strong, earthy taste and oloroso is
full-bodied and ruddy. Vermouth, or vermut, is fast
becoming a staple on Spanish drinks menus, with
vermouth bars appearing in a number of cities.
Beer
Most Spanish beer (cerveza) is
bottled lager, although you can
almost always find it on draught.
Two brands of fino sherry Popular brands include Moritz,
Alhambra, San Miguel, Cruzcampo
Mahou and Estrella. In Barcelona a
glass of beer is called una caña; in
Red wine and Madrid, un tercio. Alcohol-free lager
lemonade (cerveza sin alco hol) is available. Bottled beers

Mixed Drinks
Popular with tourists, sangria is a refreshing mix ture of red wine,
gaseosa (lemonade) and other ingre dients including chopped fruit
and sugar. Spaniards tend to drink wine diluted with lemon ade, or
vino con gaseosa, also known as tinto de verano in the south. Another
favourite drink is Agua de Valencia, a refreshing blend of cava (sparkling
Sangria wine) and orange juice. Gin and tonic is a popular drink across Spain.
How to Read a Wine Label Brand name Company’s crest
If you know what to look for, the label Capacity of
will provide a key to the wine’s flavour the bottle
and quality. It will bear the name of the
wine and its producer or bodega, Estate-bottled
its vintage if there is one, and show rather than
its Denominación de Origen (DO) if cooperative
applicable. Wines labelled joven are
recent vintages and the least expensive, The wine’s
while crianza and reserva wines are aged Denominación
a minimum of three years – part of that de Origen
time in oak casks – and therefore more
expensive. Table wine (vino de mesa),
the lowest quality, may be tinto (red),
blanco (white) or rosado (rosé). Cava is
a sparkling wine made by the méthode
champenoise in specified areas of origin. The vintage Symbol for region




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582  TR A VELLERS ‘ NEEDS

Where to Eat and Drink

Home-cooked Galician food and Price Guide
Galicia craft beer in a central location. Prices are based on a three-course
The house speciality is tortilla. evening meal for one including a half
A CORUÑA: Cúrcuma € bottle of house wine, service and taxes.
Tapas BETANZOS: Vega Comer € up to €40
Marconi 4, 15002 y Picar € €€ €40 to €55
Tel 646 14 66 42 Closed Mon, Sun Traditional Spanish €€€ over €55
This small, popular tapas bar is a Calle los Angeles 3, 15300
great-value option. Creative fare Tel 981 77 32 54 MALPICA: As Garzas €€€
and friendly staff. Book ahead. Quality local fare. Go for the Fine Dining
tortilla – the town’s signature Porto Barizo, 15113
A CORUÑA: Restaurante dish – and enjoy it either at the Tel 981 72 17 65
Comer y Picar € bar or in the restaurant area. A modern take on traditional
Tapas Spanish cuisine earned As
Calle Comandante Fontanes 1, 15003 DK Choice Garzas its Michelin star. Huge
Tel 981 28 52 20 Closed Mon & windows showcase its beach-
Sun dinner CAMBADOS: Yayo front setting.
Family-run place next to Riazor Daporta €€€
beach. Zamburiñas (scal lops) and Fine Dining O GROVE: Marisquerias
pulpo (octopus) are specialities. Calle del Hospital 7, 36630 Solaina €€€
Tel 986 52 60 62 Closed Mon, Seafood
A CORUÑA: Domus €€ Sun dinner, 14–28 Nov Avenida Beiramar s/n, 36980
Modern Spanish Haute cuisine served in an Tel 986 73 34 04
Calle Ángel Rebollo s/n, 15002 elegant, intimate atmosphere Top-quality seafood. Match it
Tel 981 20 11 36 Closed Mon, Tue in a 16th-century building. with a glass of white wine for
dinner, Wed & Sun Faultless, innovative cooking the perfect accompaniment.
An architectural gem with underpinned by the finest,
spectacular sea views. Modern freshest ingredients, and ORTIGUEIRA: Club Naútico €€
Spanish fare, with friendly service. accompanied by a selection Mediterranean
of wines that guests pick them- Puerto Deportivo s/n, 15330
A CORUÑA: Taberna Gaioso €€ selves from the bodega. A well- Tel 681 05 46 37 Closed Mon
Fine Dining deserved Michelin star holder. Delicious seafood served in
Plaza España 15, 15001 smart surroundings overlooking
Tel 981 21 33 55 Closed Sun pm; Mon the marina. Good, inexpensive
The sophisticated dining room CEDEIRA: Vila Vella Cedeira €€ tapas as well.
and bodega perfectly match the Traditional Spanish
cuisine. Tapas and à la carte menu. Paseo Arriba da Ponte 19, 15350 OURENSE: A Taberna €
Tel 981 48 07 64 Closed Mon Traditional Spanish
BAIONA: Tapería San Xoán € Choose between a variety of Calle Julio Prieto 32, 32005
Tapas pintxos in the tapas bar or the Tel 988 24 33 32 Closed Mon
Rúa San Xoan 19, 36300 (Pontevedra) superb sea food in the dining This delightfully old-fashioned
Tel 628 89 62 40 Closed Tue room at this convivial restaurant. restaurant serves excellent,
Excellent, varied tapas served in a home-cooked local cuisine.
stone-built bar-restaurant. Good- FISTERRA: O Centelo €€ It has a gourmet shop, too.
value and a lively atmosphere. Seafood
Avenida del Puerto s/n, 15155 OURENSE: La Table €
BETANZOS: La Taberna 1931 € Tel 981 74 04 52 French
Traditional Spanish Enjoy fresh seafood while taking Plaza de la Capela 29, O Pereiro
Travesía Progreso 6, 15300 in wonderful views over the port, de Aguiar, 32710
Tel 981 97 05 13 Closed Tue especially at sunset. There is also Tel 988 25 96 77 Closed Mon
an inexpensive tapas bar on the Small, but top-quality restaurant
ground floor. serving tasty French dishes.
Impeccable service.
LUGO: Taberna do Labrego €
Traditional Spanish PONTEVEDRA: Restaurante
Camino Real 32, 27372, Pacios-Begonte Mare e Monti €
Tel 982 39 82 62 Closed Mon Italian
This hidden gem offers great- Rúa Eduardo Pondal 8, 36003
value Gallegan cuisine in a Tel 886 21 48 94 Closed Mon
quaint setting. Also noted for Lovely Italian restaurant. Stone-
its excellent gin and tonics. baked pizzas and traditional
pastas feature on the menu.
LUGO: Paprica €€
Mediterranean RIBADEO: Casa Villaronta €
Calle Noreas 10, 27001 Seafood
Tel 982 25 58 24 Closed Sun pm; Mon Calle de San Francisco 9, 27700
This intimate restaurant is Tel 982 12 86 09
decorated in an attractive, Casa Villaronta – reputed to
Fine dining and wine in the elegant Yayo modern style. Innovative food at serve the best pulpo (octopus)
Daporta, Cambados surprisingly competitive prices. in the world – is always busy.
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WHERE T O EA T AND DRINK  583

SAN SALVADOR DE POIO:
Casa Solla €€€
Fine Dining
Avenida de Sineiro 7, 36005
Tel 986 87 28 84 Closed Mon,
Thu & Sun dinner; mid-Dec–early
Jan; Semana Santa
One of the best restaurants in
Spain. Innovative cooking in a
remote setting.
SANTA COMBA: Fogón Retiro
da Costiña €€€
Fine Dining
Avenida de Santiago 12, 15840
Tel 981 88 02 44
Traditional fare elevated to haute
cuisine status by a creative chef. Impeccable style at El Corral del Indianu, Arriondas
The bodega provides perfect
accompaniments to superb meals. Classic Spanish cuisine, great DK Choice
tapas and a phenomenal selec­
SANTIAGO DE COMPOSTELA: tion of Galician wines make this ARRIONDAS: Casa
Abastos 2.0 € tradi tional eatery a local favourite. Marcial €€€
Modern Spanish Fine Dining
Plaza de Abastos s/n, Casetas 13–18, VIGO: Tapas Areal € La Salgar 10, Parres, 33540
15704 Tapas Tel 985 84 09 91 Closed Mon
Tel 654 01 59 37 Closed Mon, Sun Calle de México 36, 36204 Set in the rolling countryside,
An appealing contemporary Tel 986 41 86 43 Casa Marcial was the childhood
approach to traditional cuisine Varied selection of tapas at this home of renowned chef Nacho
using fresh, local produce. popular spot. Leave room for a Manzano and is now host to
home­made dessert. his inspired cooking and two
SANTIAGO DE COMPOSTELA: Michelin stars. The menu offers
O Dezaseis € VIGO: La Trastienda del Cuatro € modern twists on Spanish
Tapas Modern Spanish classics complemented by an
Calle de San Pedro 16, 15703 Pablo Morillo 4, 36201 impressive wine list – all served
Tel 981 57 76 33 Closed Sun Tel 986 11 58 81 in elegant surroundings.
A stylish, rustically decorated bar The creative menu here combines
serving a choice of traditional tradition with modernity. Fine
and creative tapas, plus a fan­ selection of wines. Good service. CANGAS DE ONÍS:
tastic set lunch (menú del día). Sidrería Los Ramos €
VIVEIRO: Restaurante Nito €€€ Traditional Spanish
SANTIAGO DE COMPOSTELA: Traditional Spanish La Venta s/n, 33550
O Gato Negro € Hotel Ego, Playa de Area 1, 27850 Tel 608 14 59 97 Closed Jan–Feb
Seafood Tel 982 56 09 87 Delicious, regional home­cooked
Rúa Raina s/n, 15702 Located in Hotel Ego, this lovely food. A solid choice, always pop­
Tel 981 58 31 05 Closed Sun pm; Mon spot combines great seafood ular with the locals.
Quintessentially authentic with glorious views.
sea­food bar and restaurant. CASTRO URDIALES:
Excellent tapas and main dishes. La Arboleda €
Seafood
SANTIAGO DE COMPOSTELA: Asturias and Calle Ardigales 48, 39700
Casa Marcelo €€ Cantabria Tel 942 87 19 93
Fusion In addition to local fish and
Rúa Hortas 1, 15705 AMPUERO: Restaurante seafood, La Arboleda also serves
Tel 981 55 85 80 Closed Mon, Sun Solana €€ quality meats. Reservation
Watch the chef preparing Asian­ Fine dining recommended. Friendly staff.
fusion delights in the open kitchen La Bien Aparecida No 11, 39849
at this charming restaurant. Tel 942 67 67 18 Closed Mon, CUDILLERO: Bar Casa Julio €
Sun dinner, 15 days in Nov Traditional Spanish
SANXENXO: La Taberna Michelin­starred hilltop restau­ Plaza de la Marina 7, 33150
de Rotilio €€ rant. Worth the journey for its Tel 617 43 82 54
Traditional Spanish creative cuisine and great views. Good­quality food, especially fish
Avenida del Puerto 7–9, 36960 and seafood, in this cosy eatery
Tel 986 72 02 00 Closed Mon, Sun ARRIONDAS: El Corral highly recommended by locals.
dinner, Nov–mid-Mar del Indianu €€
All the regional classics in gener­ Modern Spanish GIJÓN: Sidrería La Galana €
ous portions and creatively Avenida de Europa 14, 33540 Tapas
presented. Friendly service. Tel 985 84 10 72 Closed Thu Plaza Mayor 10, 33201
Elaborate cooking with the finest Tel 985 17 24 29
VERÍN: Casa Zapatillas € ingredients has earned chef José Boasting a great location on the
Traditional Spanish Antonio Campoviejo a Michelin bustling Plaza Mayor in the Old
Avenida Luis Espada 34, 32600 star at this chic restaurant. The menú Town, La Galana offers superb
Tel 988 41 07 29 de degustación has 12 courses. tapas and a vibrant atmosphere.
For more information on types of restaurants see page 577
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584  TR A VELLERS ‘ NEEDS

GIJÓN: Ciudadela €€
Mediterranean
Calle Capua 7, 33202
Tel 985 34 77 32 Closed Sun
dinner; Mon
The dishes from the constantly
changing menu of this inviting
restaurant are served with style.
The two dining areas include a
romantic, candlelit grotto.
LAREDO: La Marina Company €
Seafood
Calle Zamanillo, 39770
Tel 942 60 63 35
Simple, well-executed traditional
fare with excellent-value set
menu options. In the Old Town. The dining area located by the sea at Annua, San Vicente de la Barquera
LASTRES: El Barrigón POTES: Casa Cayo € SANTANDER: Cañadio €€
de Bertín €€ Traditional Spanish Tapas
Fine Dining Calle Cantabra, 6, 39570 Calle de Gómez Oreña, 15, 39003
Calle San Jose, 33330 Tel 942 73 01 50 Tel 942 31 41 49 Closed Sun
Tel 985 85 04 45 Closed Tue Hearty, regional fare. Perfect after This long-established restaurant,
Multi-award-winning chef with a day’s hiking in the mountains. with a branch in Madrid, is a
an haute cuisine take on classic The restaurant has a cellar with classy joint. Excellent, varied
Asturian cooking. Uses the finest good-quality wines. tapas in a fun atmosphere.
and freshest local ingredients.
RIBADESELLA: Restaurante SANTANDER: El Marucho €€
LLANES: Sidrería El Rubiu € Güeyu Mar €€€ Seafood
Traditional Spanish Seafood Calle de Tetuán 21, 39004,
Lugar Vidiago, s/n, 33597 Playa de Vega 84, 33560 Tel 942 27 30 07 Closed Tue
Tel 985 41 14 18 Tel 985 86 08 63 Bite into fresh fish and seafood
Stone-built restaurant serving The terrace of this fine restaurant at this simple, rustic bar-
hearty Asturian food. The fabada specializing in grilled fish and restaurant. Lively atmosphere
(bean stew) is a must-try. seafood overlooks Vega beach. and a good-value option.
NOJA: Restaurante Sambal €€ SAN VICENTE DE LA SANTILLANA DEL MAR:
Fine Dining BARQUERA: Annua €€€ Los Blasones €
Calle el Arenal, 39180 Fine Dining Traditional Spanish
Tel 942 63 15 31 Closed Sun–Thu Paseo de la Barquera s/n, 39540 Plaza de la Gandara, 8, 39330
dinner in winter Tel 942 71 50 50 Closed Mon Tel 942 81 80 70 Closed Thu in
Gourmet dining accompanied Michelin-starred restaurant with winter; Nov–Mar
by fine views. Terrace for good breathtaking views over the sea. Authentic regional cuisine with
weather. Excellent wine list. Impeccable cooking, creative an emphasis on local ingredients.
menus and a superb wine list. Charming, rustic vibe.
NOREÑA: Sidrería Casa
El Sastre € SANTA EULALIA DE OSCOS: SANTILLANA DEL MAR:
Traditional Spanish Mesón La Cerca € Casa Uzquiza €
Calle de Fray Ramon 27, 33180 Traditional Spanish Traditional Spanish
Tel 985 74 12 52 Closed Mon La Cerca, 33776 Calle del Escultor Jesús Otero 5, 39330
Home-cooked regional fare and Tel 985 62 60 41 Tel 942 84 03 56 Closed Mon
delicious desserts. Wash it all Located in a quaint building with Enjoy tasty local cuisine in the
down with a local cider. outdoor tables under a horreo stone-walled dining room, or out
(stilted grain store). Famous for on the pretty terrace in summer.
OVIEDO: Taberna Salcedo € the empanadas.
Traditional Spanish SOMO: La Alberuca €
Bermúdez de Castro 38, 33011 SANTANDER: Marcello € Traditional Spanish
Tel 984 28 37 49 Italian Calle Jorganes 1, 39140
Growing increasingly popular Calle Floranes 29, 39010 Tel 942 51 05 04
among locals, this place offers Tel 942 37 30 07 Closed Mon Recommended by locals, this
a mainly traditional menu, with This authentic Italian restaurant small restaurant offers the best-
the occasional modern dish. serves a wide range of traditional quality produce in the area.
Good wine selection, too. food. Enjoy excellent service and
a relaxed atmosphere. VILLAVICIOSA: El Verano €€
OVIEDO: Casa Fermín €€€ Seafood
Fine Dining SANTANDER: La Bombi €€ Calle Agüero 3, 33300
Calle de San Francisco 8, 33003 Traditional Spanish Tel 985 89 24 65
Tel 985 21 64 52 Closed Sun Calle de Casimiro Sáinz 15, 39003 This appealingly unpretentious
Casa Fermín has a well-deserved Tel 942 21 30 28 restaurant in the tiny hamlet of
reputation for excellence, and Brilliantly executed northern Agüero, about 8 km (5 miles)
the high prices reflect the quality. Spanish food in a beautifully from Villaviciosa, serves some
Modern decor. decorated dining room. of the finest seafood in Asturias.
Key to Price Guide see page 582

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WHERE T O EA T AND DRINK  585

Set in a monastery, Las Duelas SAN SEBASTIÁN: La Fábrica €
The Basque Country, offers a wide variety of Riojan Modern Basque
Navarra & La Rioja dishes. Flawless balance between Calle Puerto 17, 20003
traditional and creative cuisine.
Tel 943 43 21 10
AOIZ: Beti Jai € In the old town near the harbour,
Traditional Navarran LOGROÑO: Bar Soriano € this restaurant is housed in a
Santa Águeda 2, 31430 Tapas former brewery. One of their
Tel 948 33 60 52 Closed Sun dinner Travesía del Laurel 2, 26001 specialities is sea bass.
Set in a Basque rural hotel. Serves Tel 941 22 88 07 Closed Wed
classic Navarran fare, but with Each tapas bar has a different SAN SEBASTIÁN: Zeruko €
new culinary twists and flavours. speciality on this popular street: Pintxos
here you'll find succulent champis Pescadería 10 (Old Town)
CINTRUÉNIGO: Maher €€ (button mushrooms), served Tel 943 42 34 51 Closed Mon
Fine Dining pintxo-style on French bread. Whipping up creative pintxos,
Ribera 19, 31592 trendy Zeruko is a hugely
Tel 948 81 11 50 Closed Sun dinner; LOGROÑO: Mesón Egües € popular destination in San
Mon; mid-Dec–mid-Jan Traditional Riojan Sebastián‘s “pintxo-crawl” scene.
Time-honoured recipes are given Campa 3, 26005
a contemporary twist at this ele- Tel 941 22 86 03 Closed Sun DK Choice
gant restaurant, using seasonal Uses the highest-quality
products sourced from Ribera. ingredients to create simple but SAN SEBASTIÁN:
hearty grilled dishes. Try the Akelarre €€€
ESTELLA: Navarra €€ braised oxtail and chuleta (chop). Modern Basque
Traditional Navarran Padre Orkolaga 56, 20008
Calle Gustavo de Maeztu, 31200 OLITE: Casa Zanito €€ Tel 943 31 12 09 Closed Sun
Tel 948 55 00 40 Closed Sun dinner; Traditional Navarran dinner; Mon; Jan–Jun: Tue; Feb &
Mon; Jan Rua Mayor 16, 31390 early Oct
Set in an old Navarran house Tel 948 74 00 02 Closed Mon & Tue; One of Spain‘s most highly
decked out in medieval decor. 18 Dec–24 Jan regarded restaurants, Akelarre
Speciali ties include lamb and A charming hotel-restaurant offers inventive Basque cuisine
stuffed asparagus. located in medieval Olite. Go rooted in tradition. The dining
for the fixed-price Menú Labrit. room’s sweeping views of the
EZCARAY: El Rincón del Vino € Atlantic set the perfect stage
Traditional Riojan PAMPLONA: Ansoleaga 33 € for an unforgettable meal.
Calle Jesús Nazareno 2, 26280 Fine Dining Order the menú de degustación
Tel 941 35 43 75 Closed winter: Florencio de Ansoleaga 33, 31001 to sample the best of the season.
Mon–Thu dinner; Sep–Jun: Wed Tel 948 04 48 60
Suckling lamb and other grilled Nibble on Navarran food while
specialities at the weekend. admiring the views of the old SAN SEBASTIÁN: Arzak €€€
The adjacent wine shop has town from the dining room. Modern Basque
thousands of Riojan labels. Alcalde José Elosegui 273, 20015
PAMPLONA: Café Bar Gaucho € Tel 943 278 465/34 943 285 593
EZCARAY: El Portal de Pintxos Closed Sun & Mon; mid-Jun–early
Echaurren €€ Calle de Espoz y Mina 7, 31002 Jul
Modern Riojan Tel 948 22 50 73 Dine at this iconic Basque eatery
Calle Padre José García 19, 26280 This small, buzzing place is by living legend Juan Mari Arzak
Tel 941 35 40 47 Closed Sun dinner; one of Pamplona‘s best pintxo and his daughter Elena. With
Mar–Jul: Mon & Tue bars, with a huge variety of three Michelin stars, Arzak has a
The first restaurant in La Rioja‘s flavoursome dishes. Cash only. “laboratory of flavours” next door,
history to receive a Michelin star. where alchemists experiment
Run alongside a gastronomic PAMPLONA: Europa €€ with more than 1,000 ingredients.
hotel. Delicious seafood. Fine Dining
Espoz y Mina 11, 31002 SAN VICENTE DE LA
HARO: Las Duelas € Tel 948 22 18 00 Closed Sun SONSIERRA: Casa Toni €
Modern Riojan Situated in Hotel Europa in the Traditional Riojan
San Agustín 2, 26200 heart of town. Try the chocolate Zumalacárregui 27, 26338
Tel 941 30 44 63 mousse with orange confit. Tel 941 33 40 01 Closed Tue–Thu &
Sun dinner; Mon; 2 wks Jul & Sep
Traditional Riojan food with
a modern twist. Go for the
special, four-course Menú el
Rocio for €25.
SANTO DOMINGO DE LA
CALZADA: Los Caballeros €
Traditional Riojan
Calle Mayor 58, 26250
Tel 941 34 27 89 Closed Sun dinner
Cod is the speciality at this
restaurant located in a historic
building next to the cathedral,
but there is a wide-ranging
Views of the Atlantic from Akelarre’s dining room, San Sebastián regional menu, too. Rustic decor.
For more information on types of restaurants see page 577
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586  TR A VELLERS ‘ NEEDS

TAFALLA: Túbal €€€ A charming café in a renovated Deceptively simple-looking,
Traditional Navarran old chocolate factory serving serving fantastic dishes prepared
Plaza de Navarra 4, 31300 vegetarian and vegan dishes, with smoked rice and home-
Tel 948 70 08 52 Closed Sun & Tue– plus great cakes and pastries. grown vegetables. Opt for the
Thu dinner; Mon dessert platter to taste a range.
Vegetables from the restaurant’s Bodega la Plata €
own garden feature prominently Tapas Map 5 A3 Lo de Flor €
on the menu. Tables on balconies Mercé 28, 08002 Mediterranean Map 2 E2
overlook the square. Tel 933 15 10 09 Carretes 18, 08001
A miniature, old-fashioned Tel 934 42 38 53 Closed lunch; Tue;
TUDELA: Restaurante 33 € bodega serving wine straight 2 wks Aug
Fine Dining from the barrel along with a small Romantic, rustic restaurant with
Calle Pablo Sarasate 7, 31500 selection of tapas. The freshly minimalist decor. Short but well-
Tel 948 82 76 06 Closed Sun–Wed fried sardines are a huge hit. chosen wine list.
dinner
The food is big on flavour at this DK Choice Mam i Teca €
award-winning establishment. Modern Catalan Map 2 F2
Most products are from the Café de L‘Acadèmia € Carrer de la Lluna 4, 08001
restaurant’s own garden. Modern Catalan Map 5 B3 Tel 934 41 33 35 Closed Tue, Sat
Lledó 1, Plaça Sant Just, 08002 lunch
URDÁNIZ: El Molino Tel 933 19 82 53 Closed Sat & Tiny, welcoming space serving
de Urdániz €€€ Sun; 3 wks Aug simple but exquisite dishes using
Fine Dining A long-established favourite, mainly organic Catalan produce.
Crta Francia por Zubiri (Na-135) Café de L‘Acadèmia serves fresh,
km 16.5, 31698 modern Catalan cuisine in a La Paradeta €
Tel 948 30 41 09 Closed Mon; brick-lined dining room and Seafood Map 5 C3
Tue, Wed & Sun dinner out on a candlelit terrace over- Comercial 7, 08009
A rustic stone-built house serving looking an enchanting Gothic Tel 932 68 19 39 Closed Mon
dishes that combine traditional square. The menu changes Fish and chips, Barcelona-style.
food from the Pyrenees with regularly according to what is Choose your fish and watch it
cutting-edge execution and freshly available on the market. being cooked. No reservations.
complex flavours.
Quimet i Quimet €
VIANA: Borgia €€ Can Culleretes € Tapas Bar Map 2 D3
Fine Dining Traditional Catalan Map 5 A3 Poeta Cabanyes 25, 08004
Calle Serapio Urra, 1 31230 Quintana 5, 08002 Tel 934 42 31 42 Closed Sun, Sat
Tel 948 64 57 81 Tel 933 17 30 22 Closed Mon, dinner; Aug
Modern decor and authentic Sun dinner A tiny, bottle-lined tapas bar with
food of the highest quality. Barcelona‘s oldest restaurant, delicious cheeses, canapés and
Borgia specializes in steaks – Can Culleretes is great for classics other treats. Standing room only.
try the beef cheek with blood- such as botifarra amb seques
orange sauce. (country sausage with beans) Senyor Parellada €
and seafood stew. Mediterranean Map 5 B3
VITORIA: El Clarete € Argenteria 37, 08003
Modern Basque Kaiku € Tel 933 10 50 94
Cercas Bajas 18, 01001 Mediterranean Map 5 B3 Elegant yet relaxed restaurant for
Tel 945 26 38 74 Closed Mon–Wed Plaça del Mar 1, 08003 modern fare in a handsome
dinner; Sun Tel 932 21 90 82 Closed Mon, Sun 19th-century town house.
Food deeply rooted in Basque dinner; Aug; winter: dinner
tradition with an innovative DK Choice
twist. Go for the marmitako
(tuna stew) with lobster or Suculent €
suckling pig with a mango Tapas Map 2 F3
cream. Great tapas bar as well. Rambla del Raval 43, 08001
Tel 934 43 65 79 Closed Mon;
VITORIA: Zaldiaran €€€ Sun dinner
Modern Basque This pretty old bodega has been
Avenida Gasteiz 21, 01008 reinvented as a trendy gastro bar
Tel 945 13 48 22 Closed Tue by a trio of celebrity chefs, while
Zaldiaran is regarded as Vitoria‘s retaining its original essence. It
best restaurant. Relish creative offers a range of creative tapas,
fare made with elaborate tech- cheese and cured meats platters,
niques and flavours. plus more substantial fare such
as lamb chops and rice dishes.
Barcelona Teresa Carles €
Old Town Vegetarian Map 5 A1
Carrer de Jovellanos 2, 08001
La Báscula € Tel 933 17 18 29
Vegetarian Map 5 C3 This elegant family-run place with
Flassaders 30, 08003 Old-world charm meets new-world tapas wooden interiors is one of the
Tel 933 19 98 66 at Suculent, Barcelona city’s best vegetarian restaurants.
Key to Price Guide see page 582

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WHERE T O EA T AND DRINK  587

Tapas 24 €€
Tapas Map 3 A5
Diputació 269, 08007
Tel 934 88 09 77 Closed Sun
Inventive selection of everyday
to fantastic creative tapas by the
chef Carles Abellan.
Tickets €€
Tapas Map 1 C2
Avinguda Paral·lel 164, 08015
Closed lunch (except Sat); Mon & Sun
Imaginative tapas and a funfair-
themed interior in this restaurant.
You can only book online at
www.ticketsbar.es.
DK Choice
Dos Palillos’ colourful decor matches its inventive menu, Barcelona La Xalada €€
Zim € Eixample Mediterranean Map 2 D2
Tapas Map 5 B2 Bar Calders € Carrer del Parlament 1, 08013
Carrer Daqueria 20, 08002 Café Map 2 D2 Tel 936 76 03 30 Closed Mon &
Tel 934 12 65 48 Closed lunch Parlament 25, 08015 Tue; Wed lunch
Miniature bar serving wines by the Tel 933 29 93 49 One of the trendiest eateries
glass along with simple tapas, with A pretty terrace, perfect for a on Carrer del Parlament,
a focus on fine Catalan cheeses. vermut (vermouth) and delicious La Xalada serves delectable
tapas, hummus and salads. Named Catalan cuisine, prepared with
Gravin €€ after Catalan writer Pere Calders. a deft, modern touch and the
Italian Map 5 B3 very best seasonal produce.
Rera Palau 3–5, 08003 Bardeni €€ There are a few tables out on
Tel 932 68 46 28 Closed Mon & Tue Modern Catalan Map 3 C4 the small terrace, or you can
lunch València 454, 08013 eat in the delightfully retro
Sophisticated Italian food from Chef Dani Lechuga prepares interior, with gilded columns
the Puglia region in an elegant phenomenal tapas for the and artfully mismatched
dining room with exposed brick dedicated carnivore, with dishes furnishings and china.
walls and tiled floors. such as steak tartare and black
pudding croquetas.
La Mar Salada €€ Moments €€€
Mediterranean Map 5 B5 Boca Grande €€ Modern Catalan Map 3 A5
Passeig Joan Borbó 58–59, 08003 Seafood Map 3 A3 Passeig de Gràcia 38–40, 08007
Tel 932 21 10 15 Closed Tue Passatge de la Concepció 12, 08003 Tel 931 51 87 81 Closed Sun & Mon
Bright and modern setting, with Tel 934 67 51 49 Chef Raül Balam has earned two
a fantastic set lunch. Great for This trendy restaurant dishes Michelin stars for his inventive
seafood lovers with dishes such as out delicious fresh seafood in takes on Catalan cuisine at this
cod pilpil with honey and spinach. spectacular surroundings. It also sophisticated hotel restaurant.
has a lovely terrace, oyster bar,
Pla €€ winery and cocktail bar. Further Afield
Fusion Map 5 A3
Bellafila 5,08002 Fábrica Moritz €€ Casa de Tapes Cañota €
Tel 934 12 65 52 Closed lunch Tapas Map 2 E1 Tapas Map 1 B2
Hidden down a narrow street, Ronda de Sant Antoni 41, 08011 Lleida 7, 08004
this reliably good option offers Tel 934 26 00 50 Tel 933 25 91 71 Closed Mon, Sun
deftly prepared fusion cuisine. A huge bar and restaurant in a dinner; mid-Aug–early Sep
sumptuous, beautifully renovated This big and bustling joint serves
Dos Palillos €€€ Modernista building. gourmet tapas such as succulent
Tapas Map 2 F2 beef with garlic.
Elisabets 9, 08001 Ikibana €€
Tel 933 04 05 13 Closed Sun & Fusion Map 2 D2 DK Choice
Mon; Tue & Wed lunch Avinguda del Paral.lel 148, 08015
Ultra-chic yet relaxed tapas bar Tel 934 24 46 48 Gut €
with a Michelin star, serving A striking interior and Japanese- Mediterranean Map 3 B2
spectacular Asian fusion tapas. Brazilian fusion cuisine make Carrer del Perill 13, Gràcia, 08012
Ikibana one of Barcelona’s most Tel 931 86 63 60
Koy Shunka €€€ stylish restaurants. Arrive early for a seat at this
Japanese Map 5 B3 charming restaurant, where
Carrer Copons 7, 08002 Petit Comitè €€ tasty, healthy food, including
Tel 934 12 79 39 Closed Mon; Modern Catalan Map 3 A3 vegetarian and gluten-free
Sun dinner; Aug Passatge de la Concepció 13, 08008 options, is prepared daily with
A Michelin star supports its Tel 936 33 76 27 Closed Mon market-fresh ingredients. Also,
claim to being the best Japanese Contemporary decor and food by don’t miss the delicious, home-
restaurant in the city, with an lauded chef Nandu Jubany make made cakes.
adventurous menu. this a popular uptown option.
For more information on types of restaurants see page 577
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588  TR A VELLERS ‘ NEEDS

Cafè Godot €€
Mediterranean Map 3 B2
C/ de Sant Domènec 19, Gràcia, 08012
Tel 933 68 20 36
Stylish modern café serving
bistro-style food with a
contemporary twist, including
a great brunch on weekends.
Kuai Momos €€
Tapas Map 3 B2
Carrer Martínez de la Rosa 71, Gràcia,
08012
Tel 932 18 53 27 Closed Sun
A chic, lively restaurant serving
Asian tapas such as gyoza
(Japanese dumplings), salads,
curries and rice dishes.
Tables with a picturesque view at El Motel, Figueres
Wagokoro €€
Japanese Map 3 A1 BANYOLES: Ca L‘Arpa €€€ A modest yet charming spot with
Regàs 35, 08006 Modern Catalan a beachfront setting – perfect for
Tel 935 01 93 40 Closed Sun–Tue; 1 Passeig Industria 5, 17820 fresh seafood and paella.
wk Aug Tel 972 57 23 53 Closed Mon, Tue
Outstanding, authentic lunch, Sun dinner CAMBRILS: Can Bosch €€€
Japanese food is served in this Part of a chic hotel, this restaurant Seafood
simple dining room run by a specializing in modern Catalan Rambla Jaume I 19, 43850
warm and welcoming Catalan- cuisine can be found in Banyoles’ Tel 977 36 00 19 Closed Mon, Sun
Japanese couple. charming historic quarter. dinner; late Dec–Jan
There is delectable seafood to
ABaC €€€ BEGUR: Fonda Caner €€ be had here, over looking the
Modern Catalan Traditional Catalan port at Cambrils. The restaurant
Ave Tibidabo 1, 08022 Pi i Ralló 10, 17255 has held a coveted Michelin star
Tel 933 19 66 00 Closed Sun & Mon Tel 972 62 23 91 Closed Nov–Mar since 1984.
Exceptional cuisine from chef A traditional restaurant, with lots
Jordi Cruz, who, in 2004, became of old-fashioned charm, tucked ESCUNHAU: El Niu €€
the youngest Spanish chef to away in Begur‘s old quarter. Traditional Catalan
earn a Michelin star at just 25. His Organic and seasonal cuisine. Deth Pònt 1, 25539
creations at ABaC have earned Tel 973 64 14 06 Closed Sun dinner;
two of the coveted gongs. BEGUR: Restaurant Rostei €€ late Jun–late Jul
Mediterranean Traditional mountain inn with
Botafumeiro €€€ Concepció Pi 8, 17255 a roaring fireplace. The menu
Seafood Map 3 A2 Tel 972 62 42 15 Closed Sun–Thu, Fri features tasty grilled meats. The
Gran de Gràcia 81, 08012 & Sat lunch in winter; Mon, Tue–Sat dining room has a hunting-
Tel 932 18 42 30 lunch in summer inspired decor.
A large, traditional restaurant A romantic restaurant in Begur‘s
with white-aproned waiters historic quarter, Restaurant Rostei FIGUERES: El Motel €€€
bearing ultra-fresh seafood serves delicious seafood and Traditional Catalan
platters to the crowded tables fantastic desserts. Avinguda Salvador Dalí 170, 17600
at this popular local. Tel 972 50 05 62
BESALÚ: Cúria Reial €€ This elegant restaurant enjoys
Traditional Catalan a reputation for serving fine
Plaça de la Llibertat 14, 17850 regional cuisine. It also has an
Catalonia Tel 972 59 02 63 Closed Tue extensive wine list.
Traditional Catalan cuisine served
ANGLÈS: Aliança 1916 €€ under stone vaults. Try the duck GARRAF: La Cúpula €€
Modern Catalan with foie gras. Seafood
Carrer Jacint Verdaguer 3, 17160 Platja de Garraf, 08871
Tel 972 42 01 56 Closed Mon; Sun, CADAQUÉS: Compartir €€€ Tel 936 32 00 15 Closed Mon & Tue;
Tue & Wed dinner Modern Catalan Sun, Wed & Thu dinner
Set in a colourful century-old Riera Sant Vicenç s/n, 17488 With a splendid clifftop setting,
villa, this multifunctional space Tel 972 25 84 82 La Cúpula is a perfect place for
serves as a café, tapas bar and A trio of Catalunya’s top chefs offer a seafood lunch.
(excellent) restaurant. highly imaginative dishes such as
sardines marinated in orange, GIRONA: Divinum €€
ARTIES: Casa Irene €€ olives and mint, or asparagus Tapas
Traditional Catalan served with a piquant foam. Albereda 7, 17004
Carrer Major 3, 25599 Tel 872 08 02 18 Closed Sun;
Tel 973 64 43 64 Closed Mon CALDES D‘ESTRAC: Marola €€ Mon dinner
This elegant restaurant, offering Seafood Divinum is an elegant,
quality fare, resides in a stone- Passeig dels Anglesos 6, 08393 contemporary tapas restaurant
built traditional house; perfect Tel 937 91 32 00 Closed Tue; Sun, with an excellent wine list to
after a day on the ski slopes. Mon, Wed & Thu dinner accompany the petite dishes.
Key to Price Guide see page 582
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WHERE T O EA T AND DRINK  589

SANT FELIU DE GUÍXOLS:
DK Choice Fresh, delicious Catalan cuisine Villa Más €€€
in a charmingly restored old
GIRONA: El Celler convent; save room for dessert. Traditional Catalan
de Can Roca €€€ Passeig de Sant Pol 95, 17220
Modern Catalan RIPOLL: Reccapolis €€ Tel 972 82 25 26 Closed Mon except
Carrer de Can Sunyer 48, 17007 Traditional Catalan Jun–Aug; early Dec–early Jan
Tel 972 22 21 57 Closed Sun & Crta de Sant Joan 68, 17500 Enchanting 19th-century villa
Mon; 1 wk Aug; Easter Tel 972 70 21 06 Closed Wed, Sun– overlooking the Sant Pol beach.
This temple to molec u lar Thu dinner; mid-Aug–mid-Sep Outstanding Catalan cuisine and
gastronomy boasts three Comforting country favourites in a fine selection of wines.
Michelin stars. It is run by the a handsome century-old house;
three Roca brothers: Joan is excellent set lunch. SANT FRUITÓS DE BAGES:
head chef, Jordi is dessert chef L’Ó €€€
and Josep is the sommelier. ROSES: Rafa’s €€ Modern Catalan
Expect inno va tive dishes such Seafood Camí de Sant Benet de Bages, 08272
as oysters with champagne and Carrer Sant Sebastià 56, 17480 Tel 938 75 94 29 Closed Mon–Wed,
caramelized olives served on a Tel 972 25 40 03 Closed Sun, Mon; Sun dinner
bonsai tree. You must reserve Dec–mid-Jan Minimalist dining room in a
11 months in advance. Informal, convivial and hugely medieval monastery. Inventive
popular seafood restaurant with Catalan cuisine by Michelin-
expertly cooked fish. starred chef Jordi Llobet.
HORTA DE SANT JOAN:
Mas del Cigarrer € ROSES: Els Brancs €€€ SANT JOAN DE LES ABADESSES:
Traditional Catalan Modern Catalan La Teulería €€
Crta Horta de Sant Joan a Bot s/n, Av. de José Díaz Pacheco 26, 17480 Traditional Catalan
43596 Tel 972 25 62 00 Closed lunch; Mon; Carretera C-38, km 1.5, 17860
Tel 977 43 51 53 Closed mid-Sep– Oct–Mar Tel 972 72 05 07 Closed Wed; Sun
June: Sun & Mon, Tue–Thu dinner An award-winning gastronomic dinner; last wk Aug
Famous for calçots (barbecued restaurant serving creative An elegant restaurant offering
leek-like vegetable) and cargolades Catalan cuisine. Amazing terrace such regional dishes as roasted
(feasts of calçots and wild snails). over the cliff, perfect for sunset lamb from the Ripollès area. Very
views of Roses Bay. good-value gastronomic menu.
L‘AMETLLA DE MAR: L’Alguer €€
Seafood SANT CARLES DE LA RÀPITA: SANT POL DE MAR:
Trafalgar 21, 43860 Miami Can Pons €€ Sant Pau €€€
Tel 977 45 61 24 Closed Mon; Seafood Modern Catalan
mid-Dec–mid-Jan Passeig Marítim 18–20, 43540 Carrer Nou 10, 08395
Fresh seafood served in a dining Tel 977 74 05 51 Closed Sun Tel 937 60 06 62 Closed Sun & Mon,
room with door-to-ceiling glass Classic seafront restaurant in Thu lunch; 3 wks May & Nov
windows, right on the seafront. the Hotel Miami Mar. Attentive Carme Ruscalleda, one of the
service and excellent value. world‘s best chefs, works her
L’ESPLUGA DE FRANCOLÍ: magic here at one of Spain‘s
Hostal del Senglar €€ SANT FELIU DE GUÍXOLS: finest restaurants.
Traditional Catalan Cau Del Pescador €€
Plaça Montserrat Canals 1, 43440 Seafood SANT SADURNÍ D‘ANOIA:
Tel 977 87 04 11 Closed Mon Carrer Sant Doménec 11, 17220 La Cava d‘en Sergi €€
This place has an excellent Tel 972 32 40 52 Closed Mon; Tue Modern Catalan
reputation for flame-grilled in winter Carrer de València 17, 08770
meats and hearty country dishes. A smart restaurant in an old Tel 938 91 16 16 Closed Mon,
fisherman‘s cottage. Sample the Sun dinner (all day last Sun of the
LLAGOSTERA: Els Tinars €€€ justly famed suquet (seafood stew). month); 3 wks Aug
Modern Catalan Stylish restaurant serving
Crta de Sant Feliu a Girona, km 7, 17240 modernized Catalan classics with
Tel 972 83 06 26 Closed Mon, Sun a wonderful range of local wines.
dinner
First-rate contemporary cuisine SANTA CRISTINA D’ARO:
with a focus on seasonal local Can Roquet €€
produce. Good value set menus. Mediterranean
Plaça de l’Esglèsia, Romanyà de la
LLEIDA: L’Estel de la Mercè €€ Selva, 17246
Modern Catalan Tel 972 83 30 81
Carrer Cardenal Cisneros 30, 25002 Tasty modern French and Catalan
Tel 973 28 80 08 Closed Mon, cuisine, and a lovely ter race
Sun dinner overlooking fields and woods.
A bright hotel-restaurant serving
fresh, contemporary Catalan SITGES: Cinnamon €
cuisine. A gastro tapas bar, too. Fusion
Passeig de Pujades 2, Vallpineda, 08750
PERALADA: Cal Sagristà €€ Tel 938 94 71 66 Closed Mon & Tue;
Traditional Catalan Wed, Thu & Sun dinner
Rodona 2, 17491 Delicious Asian fusion cuisine
Tel 972 53 83 01 Closed Tue, Mon The white-on-blonde, luxurious dining in a lovely old farmhouse. Hosts
dinner; 3 wks Feb & Nov room at El Celler de Can Roca, Girona DJ sessions and other events.
For more information on types of restaurants see page 577
582-605_EW_Spain.indd 589 26/09/17 11:56 am

590  TR A VELLERS ‘ NEEDS

SITGES: El Pou € Park offers delicious Catalan among other specialities,
Tapas food, splendid views and a octopus salad and cheese and
Sant Pau 5, 08770 charming terrace. honey ice cream.
Tel 931 28 99 21 Closed Tue; Mon,
Wed & Thu lunch in winter VIC: D. O. Vic €€ ESQUEDES: Venta del Sotón €€
In the old centre, this relaxed Modern Catalan Regional Spanish
restaurant offers a great selection Sant Miquel de Sants 16, 08500 Carretera A-132 Huesca-Puente la
of classic and modern tapas. Tel 938 83 23 96 Closed Mon & Reina km 14, 22810
Sun; 2 wks Aug Tel 974 27 02 41 Closed Tue lunch
TARRAGONA: La Cuineta € Small, minimalist restaurant (Jul–Oct), Sun–Wed dinner; Mon;
Mediterranean serving outstanding Catalan 3wks in Nov
Baixada del Patriarca 2, 43003 cuisine with a creative touch. Sample the tasting menu at this
Tel 977 22 61 01 Closed lunch; Sun ivy-clad, slate-roofed establish-
This delightful little restaurant in ment. The large circular chimney
the historic quarter of Tarragona is typical of Pyrenean properties.
serves fresh Mediterranean dishes. Aragón
It also offers a great-value lunch FRAGA: +Billauba €€
menu for €15. AÍNSA: Restaurante Bodegón Regional Spanish
de Mallacán € Avenida de Aragón 41E, 22520
TARRAGONA: Aq €€ Regional Spanish Tel 974 47 41 67 Closed Sun; Mon–
Modern Catalan Plaza Mayor 6, 22330 Thu dinner; 1 wk Jan, 2 wks Aug
Carrer Les Coques 7, 43003 Tel 974 50 09 77 Every season marks a new menu
Tel 977 21 59 54 Closed Sun & Mon Hotel Posada Real’s restaurant at +Billauba, with dishes crafted
Exciting contemporary cuisine by offers a taste of medieval times. from freshly sourced ingredients.
chef Ana Ruiz is served up in this The wild boar marinated in red
smart dining room. The lunch wine is a must-try. GRAUS: Restaurante
menu is great value. El Criticón €
AÍNSA: Callizo €€ Traditional Spanish
TARRAGONA: Sol-Ric €€ Modern Spanish Hotel Palacio del Obispo, Plaza
Mediterranean Plaza Mayor, 22330 Coreche, 222430
Avenida Via Augusta 227, 43007 Tel 974 50 03 85 Tel 974 54 59 00 Closed Sun–Thu
Tel 977 23 20 32 Closed Mon; Refined, beautifully presented dinner
Sun dinner and imaginative cuisine served A temple to classic Spanish food
Savour divine seafood and other in this elegant restaurant on the named for a book by Baltasar
regional fare in an elegant setting main square. Gracían, who lived in Graus.
with a great summer terrace.
ALBARRACÍN: Rincón del HECHO: Restaurante Canteré €
TARRAGONA: Les Coques €€€ Chorro € Modern Spanish
Traditional Catalan Regional Spanish Calle Aire 1, 22720
Carrer Sant Llorenç 15, 43003 Calle Chorro 15, 44100 Tel 974 37 52 14 Closed Sun–Thu
Tel 977 22 83 00 Closed Sun Tel 978 71 01 12 Closed Mon, Sun dinner; Wed
A long-established favourite in dinner; winter: Mon–Thu & Fri– Enjoy the popular bar, located
the old city serving sophisticated Sun dinner at ground level, before moving
regional dishes. Mega portions are piled high on up to this cutting-edge
your plate at this Albarracín restaurant with thematic
VALLGORGUINA: Can Barrina €€ staple. Oxtail stew is a popular seasonal menus.
Traditional Catalan choice to get your teeth into.
Crta de Palautordera E, 08469 DK Choice
Tel 938 47 30 65 ANCILES: Restaurante
This beautiful country hotel and Ansils € HUESCA: El Origen €
restaurant in Montseny Natural Regional Spanish Modern Spanish
Calle General Ferraz 6, 22469 Plaza de la Justicia 4, 22001
Tel 974 55 11 50 Closed Mon–Fri Tel 974 22 97 45
lunch in winter Old meets new at this central
Nestled in a picturesque Pyrenees Huesca spot, which, although
village, this place specializes in committed to Aragonese
local Valle de Benasque cuisine. cuisine, whips up some delight-
ful dishes from across the
CATALAYUD: Mesón de country. Opt for the fixed-price
La Dolores € tasting menu. Vegetarians are
Regional Spanish well catered for here. There is a
Calle Sancho y Gil 4, 50300 children’s playground to keep
Tel 976 88 90 55 the kids amused as well.
This traditionally decorated
hotel-restaurant prepares classic
fare with a contemporary touch. JACA: La Tasca de Ana €
Tapas
DARACO: Restaurante Ruejo € Calle Ramiro I 3, 22700
Modern Spanish Tel 974 36 47 26 Closed 2 wks May &
Calle Mayor 88, 50360 Sep; winter: Mon–Fri lunch
Tel 976 54 50 71 Efficient waiters serve a variety of
Outdoor seating at Restaurant Canteré This classy restaurant serves up tapas treats at this reasonably
in Hecho an inventive menu featuring, priced bar.
Key to Price Guide see page 582
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WHERE T O EA T AND DRINK  591

LORCA: Paredes €
Traditional Spanish
Calle de Granada 588, 30817
Tel 626 27 77 25 Closed Tue–Thu
dinner, Sun
Small, welcoming restaurant
serving tasty Spanish cuisine.
Good meat and seafood dishes.
DK Choice
MORELLA: Casa Roque €
Fusion
Calle Cuesta de San Juan 1, 12300
Tel 964 16 03 36 Closed Tue–Thu
& Sun dinner; Mon (except Aug)
This popular eating spot is
Contemporary, sleek dining room at Saboya 21, Tarazona located in an old stone mansion
high in the wild Mestrat region
SOS DEL REY CATÓLICO: Award-winning tapas and choice of inland Castellón. The eclectic
La Cocina del Principal €€ traditional recipes at this long- range of dishes includes such
Traditional Spanish established local favourite. gastronomic delights as steak
Calle Fernando El Católico 13, 50680 with truffles in puff pastry. With
Tel 948 88 83 48 Closed Mon ZARAGOZA: El Chalet €€€ a superb menú de degustación
Fresh, locally sourced fruit Modern Spanish and a good-value menu of
and vegetables are used at this Calle Santa Teresa de Jesús 25, 50006 the day.
establishment, located in the Tel 976 56 91 04 Closed Mon,
centre of the medieval village. Sun dinner
This two-floor converted villa, ONDARA: Casa Pepa €€€
TARAZONA: Saboya 21 €€ just around the corner from Real Traditional Spanish
Traditional Spanish Zaragoza‘s home ground, has a Partida de Pamís 7–30, 03760
Calle Marrodán 34, 50500 striking glass canopy. Tasty, Tel 965 76 66 06 Closed Tue & Sun
Tel 976 64 35 15 Closed Sat–Thu creatively presented dishes. dinner; Mon; Jul & Aug
dinner; Mon Enjoy Michelin-star food in a
Light, bright dining room boasts pleasant old mansion amid orange
a menu to match its decor. Local and olive trees. Expect well-
meat, seafood and vegetable Valencia and Murcia executed, sophisticated dishes.
dishes on offer.
ALICANTE: Rincón Gallego € VALENCIA: L‘Estimat €€
TERUEL: Restaurante Yain € Seafood Seafood
Traditional Spanish Plaza del Ayuntamiento 7, 03002 Passeig de Neptú 16, Playa de las
Plaza de la Judería 9, 44001 Tel 965 14 00 14 Closed Mon Arenas
Tel 978 62 40 76 Closed Mon & Sun; Galician restaurant serving tapas Tel 963 71 10 18 Closed Tue;
Tue–Thu dinner and regional dishes such as pulpo Mon & Sun dinner
Located in the town‘s Jewish a la gallega (steamed octopus) Perhaps the best seafood spot on
quarter, this establishment prides and percebes (goose barnacles). the entire Valencia beachfront.
itself on the excellence of its Wide selection of set menus and
sommellier. It takes its name from BENIMANTELL: L‘Obrer € an excellent à la carte choice.
the Hebrew word for wine. Traditional Spanish
Crta de Alcoi 25, 03516 VALENCIA: La Salita €€
TERUEL: Restaurante Rufino €€ Tel 965 88 50 88 Closed Sun; Modern Spanish
Traditional Spanish dinner (except Fri & Sat in Aug) Calle Séneca 12, 46021
Calle Ronda Ambeles 36, 44001 Elegant restaurant with charming Tel 963 81 75 16
Tel 978 60 55 26 Closed Sun & decor serving classic Spanish and Well-presented contemporary
Mon dinner Mediterranean fare, including cuisine from top chef Begoña
This small, stylish restaurant grilled meats. Rodrigo, who changes the menu
specializing in truffles draws every fortnight in order to feature
large crowds. CARAVACA DE LA CRUZ: the best seasonal produce.
El Casón de los Reyes €
ZARAGOZA: Palomeque € Traditional Spanish
Tapas Crta Granada 11, 30400
Calle Agustín Palomeque 11, 50004 Tel 968 72 22 47 Madrid
Tel 976 21 40 82 Closed Sun A welcoming place with tasty
Come here for tapas in the tapas, meals featuring local recipes Old Madrid
morning and more substantial and a great-value set lunch. La Bola €
meals during lunch and dinner. Traditional Spanish Map 4 D1
Presentation is sheer artistry. FORCALL: Mesón de la Villa € Calle de la Bola 5, 28013
Traditional Spanish Tel 915 47 69 30
ZARAGOZA: La Rinconada Plaza Mayor 8, 12310 Cocido (stew) cooked in a charcoal
de Lorenzo €€ Tel 964 17 11 25 Closed Mon grill has been served here in
Modern Spanish Vaulted restaurant in 16th-century traditional clay pots since 1870.
Calle La Salle 3, 50006 cellars below the town hall. Great- Classic Castilian dishes served in
Tel 976 55 51 08 Closed Sun dinner value Mediterranean dishes. an old-fashioned atmosphere.
For more information on types of restaurants see page 577
582-605_EW_Spain.indd 591 26/09/17 11:56 am

592  TR A VELLERS ‘ NEEDS

Julián de Tolosa €€
Spanish Map 4 D3
Calle Cava Baja 18, 28005
Tel 913 65 82 10 Closed Sun dinner
A handsome restaurant with
exposed brick walls, famous
for its huge, succulent steaks
cooked on a char coal brazier.
The menu also features a number
of Basque specialities.
Botín €€€
Traditional Madrileño Map 4 E3
Calle Cuchilleros 17, 28005
Tel 913 66 42 17
Listed by the Guinness Book of
Records as the world’s oldest
Bright and quirky interior at Delic, Madrid rest aurant, Botín is set in a series
of rustic interconnected dining
Casa Lucas € Actors, artists and even the royal rooms and is justly lauded for
Modern Spanish Map 4 E3 family are regulars at this popular its superb cochinillo (roast
Calle Cava Baja 30, 28005 restaurant that had the first gluten- suckling pig).
Tel 913 65 08 04 Closed Wed lunch free menu in the city. Serves
Cosy wine bar serving top-quality some of the best pizzas, too. Dstage €€€
tapas. Try the tuna tataki with Fine Dining Map 5 B5
onion, soy sauce and apple La Gastroteca de Santiago € Calle Regueros 8, 28004
compote. Booking recommended. Modern Spanish Map 4 D2 Tel 917 02 15 86
Plaza de Santiago 1, 28013 Highly acclaimed chef Diego
Casa Revuelta € Tel 915 48 07 07 Guerrero has garnered a string
Tapas Map 4 E3 This place has elaborate dishes of awards for his stunning
Calle Latoneros 3 (off Plaza Puerta and an excellent wine list. Be sure cuisine. There is a choice of
Cerrada), 28005 to leave space for the artisanal degustation menus, each with
Tel 915 21 45 16 Closed Sun dinner; desserts. Fancy atmosphere, around 12 artistically presented
Mon charming terrace. and ever-evolving courses.
This long-established classic
boasts a colourfully tiled interior Naïa € La Terraza del Casino €€€
and serves tasty local dishes, Modern Spanish Map 4 D3 Modern Spanish Map 7 A2
including salt cod fritters and Plaza de la Paja 3, 28005 Calle Alcalá 15, 28014
callos a la madrileña (tripe). Tel 913 66 27 83 Closed Mon Tel 915 32 12 75 Closed Mon, Sun
This chic but relaxed bistro in the Dazzling decor and a stunning
La Ciudad Invisible € heart of Old Madrid is popular with terrace are matched by
Café Map 4 E1 the boho actor and artist type. impressive adventurous fare
Costanilla de los Ángeles 7, 28013 by an award-winning chef.
Tel 915 42 25 40 El Abrazo de Vergara €€
Do a spot of reading at this stylish Modern Spanish Map 4 D2 Bourbon Madrid
yet relaxed travel book-shop and Calle Vergara 10, 28013
café-bar. It offers a variety of light Tel 915 42 00 62 Closed Sun dinner; Café del Círculo de
meals, tapas and wine, and regularly Mon Bellas Artes €
features changing art exhibitions. Diners at this sleek restaurant Café Map 7 B2
enjoy a range of gourmet tapas Calle Marqués de Casa Riera 2, 28014
DK Choice and traditional Mediterranean Tel 913 60 54 00
dishes with an innovative twist.
This airy Art Deco café is
Delic € located in a beautiful cultural
Café Map 3 C3 Casa Jacinto €€ centre, and is worth coming for
Costanilla de San Andrés 14, 28005 Traditional Madrileño Map 4 D1 everything from coffee to a tasty
Tel 913 64 54 50 Closed Mon Calle Reloj 20, 28013 lunch, to evening cocktails.
A hip favourite on a charming Tel 915 42 67 25 Closed Sun dinner;
square, Delic is perfect for a lazy Mon Café Gijón €
breakfast or a tasty light lunch – Hidden behind a humble Café Map 6 D5
try the leek tart or the Japanese exterior, Casa Jacinto serves the Calle Paseo de Recoletos 21, 28004
dumplings. With wonderful best cocido (local stew) in town. Tel 915 21 54 25
tarts, muffins and brownies, it Be sure to try their home-made One of Madrid’s famous literary
is also a great stop for tea and desserts. Good wine list, too. cafés, established in 1887, Gijón
cakes in the afternoons. Later serves classic dishes with a
on, come for cocktails and Casa Lucio €€ modern twist in a wood-panelled
occasional live music. Traditional Spanish Map 4 E3 room or on the large terrace.
Calle Cava Baja 35, 28005
Tel 913 65 32 52 La Casa del Abuelo €
Emma y Julia € Since 1974, Lucio’s huevos Tapas Map 7 A2
Italian Map 4 E3 estrellados (slummed eggs) have Calle Victoria 12, 28012
Calle Cava Baja 19, 28005 been a speciality of this eatery Tel 910 00 01 33
Tel 913 66 10 23 Closed Tue lunch; serving quality fare in a traditional La Casa del Abuelo (Grandfather‘s
Mon setting. Long list of Spanish wines. House) has been in the hands of
Key to Price Guide see page 582
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WHERE T O EA T AND DRINK  593

the same family for a century, Palacio Cibeles €€€ French cuisine and tapas-style
and the family specializes in Modern Spanish Map 7 C1 Spanish dishes. The light-filled
delicious prawns served with Plaza Cibeles 1, 6th floor, 28014 interior with mismatched
a local sweet wine and a range Tel 915 23 14 54 furniture is decorated with
of tasty tapas. The spectacular, Neo-Gothic framed posters.
former post office building
Cien Llaves € houses a modern restaurant La Tasquita de Enfrente €€
Traditional Spanish Map 7 C1 on the 6th floor, with fabulous Modern Spanish Map 4 F1
C/ Paseo de Recoletos 2, 28001 views complementing its Calle Ballesta 6, 28004
Tel 915 77 59 55 Closed Mon & Tue contemporary cuisine. Tel 915 32 54 49
dinner; Sun There‘s no menu here: you‘ll be
Located in the old kitchens Further Afield offered a selection based what-
of the Palacio de Linares. The ever was freshest at the market.
terrace, a unique outdoor setting Bodegas La Ardosa € What you can be sure of is
in down town Madrid, has a Tapas Map 5 A5 authentic Spanish recipes given
magical atmos phere, surrounded Calle Colón 13, 28004 a modern twist using locally
by greenery. Tel 915 21 49 79 sourced produce. The wines are
An old-fashioned tapas bar selected for you that best pair
Lateral Gastrobar € where you can enjoy salmorejo with each dish.
Tapas Map 7 A3 cordobés (a thicker version of
Plaza de Santa Ana 12, 28012 gazpacho) and other staples. Santceloni €€€
Tel 914 20 15 82 Modern Spanish
One of Madrid’s best terraces, Naif Madrid € Paseo de la Castellana 57, 28046
the Lateral offers a variety of International Map 5 A5 Tel 912 10 88 40
pintxos, which use quality Calle San Joaquín 16, 28004 The late great chef Santi
products and merge traditional Tel 910 07 20 71 Santamaria is mourned, but
and avant-garde recipes. A boho-chic, loft-style his legacy lives on in this
restaurant with tasty gourmet spectacular and award-
Ainhoa €€ burgers, fancy sandwiches and winning restaurant. Classic
Basque Map 5 C5 inspired salads. Good for lunch, Spanish dishes are reinter-
Calle Bárbara de Braganza 12, 28004 afternoon coffee and cake, and preted with flair and
Tel 913 08 27 26 Closed Sun & Mon evening cocktails. imagination. Impeccable
dinner; Aug service and presentation.
Specializing in classic Basque La Pescadería €
cuisine, this restaurant, close to Modern Spanish Map 4 F1
the Paseo de Recoletos, offers Calle de la Ballesta 32, 28004
a delicious experience. Good- Tel 915 23 90 51 Madrid Province
value midweek dinner menu. Try the salmon tartar, baby cuttle-
fish and tuna belly millefeuille at ALCALÁ DE HENARES:
Bar Tomate €€ this restaurant with a fancy yet Hostería del Estudiante €€
Mediterranean Map 5 C4 friendly atmosphere. Traditional Spanish
Calle Fernando el Santo 26, 28010 Calle Colegios 3, 28801
Tel 917 02 38 70 Le Patron €€ Tel 918 88 03 30 Closed Sun dinner;
A fashionable spot for market- International Map 2 F5 Mon & Tue
fresh dishes like tuna tartare Calle del Barco 27, 28004 The regional delicacies served
with guacamole or hake with Tel 91 70 46 811 Closed Sun dinner; at this 16th century converted
olives and tomatoes. The airy, Mon residence have become an
loft-style interior has big wooden In the Malasaña area of institution. Try the famous
tables, perfect for groups. Madrid, this restaurant offers migas (fried breadcrumbs with
an interesting mix of traditional garlic) and duelos y quebrantos
Estado Puro €€ (traditional Manchegan dish
Tapas Map 7 A3 with scrambled eggs, chorizo
Plaza Cánovas del Castillo 4,, and bacon).
28012
Tel 917 79 30 36 DK Choice
Super-stylish, with gourmet
tapas by celebrated chef Paco ARANJUEZ:
Roncero, who takes classic Casa José €€€
recipes such as buñuelos de Modern Spanish
bacalao (cod puffs) and reinvents Calle Abastos 32
them brilliantly. Tel 918 91 14 88
Casa José is an enchanting
Taberna del Chato €€ restaurant, in a beautifully
Tapas Map 4 F3 restored mansion, with
Calle Cruz 35, 28012 sophisticated dishes like leek
Tel 915 23 16 29 Closed Mon–Fri with broccoli foam and sea
lunch anemone, or marinated
Exquisite wines and beautifully grouper. Local produce is used
presented gourmet tapas – wherever possible, and the
from ham croquettes to nidos de extensive wine list features
langostinos (langoustine nests) – more than 250 labels, including
have made this restaurant a firm Wooden tables and chairs at Bar Tomate, a interesting boutique wines.
local favourite. bright, airy option in Madrid
For more information on types of restaurants see page 577
582-605_EW_Spain.indd 593 26/09/17 11:56 am

594  TR A VELLERS ‘ NEEDS

CHINCHON: Tuck in to substantial dishes like BENAVENTE: El Ermitaño €
Mesón Cuevas del Vino € a medieval friar in the old cellar Regional Spanish
Traditional Spanish and winepress of San Miguel de Crta Benavente–León km 1.2, 49600
Calle Benito Hortelano 13, 28370 Ampudia’s residence. Tel 980 63 22 13 Closed Mon
Tel 918 94 02 06 Closed Sun dinner You‘ll struggle to tell the colour
A 17th-century mill, now a ARANDA DE DUERO: of the crockery at this Michelin-
rustically decorated restaurant, Mesón El Pastor € starred restaurant as portions are
Mesón Cuevas del Vino is Regional Spanish generous to overflowing.
a good bet for classic dishes like Plaza de la Virgencilla 11, 09400
lamb chops. Tel 947 50 04 28 Closed Tue lunch BURGOS: Cardamomo
A prominent wood-burning Vegetariano €
EL ESCORIAL: brick oven takes pride of place, Vegetarian
Montia € where the regional speciality Calle Jesús María Ordoño 3, 09004
Modern Spanish lechazo asado (roasted milk-fed- Tel 947 05 21 52 Closed Mon & Sun
Calle Calvario 4, 28200 only lamb) is prepared. Burgos may be famous for its
Tel 911 33 69 88 Closed Mon cheese, but the menu at this
This Michelin-starred restaurant ARÉVALO: Asador Siboney € central spot is virtually vegan.
serves creative dishes made Regional Spanish
using organic regional products. Calle Figones 4, 05200 BURGOS: La Favorita €
Tel 920 30 15 23 Closed dinner Pinchos
NAVACERRADA: El Rumba € This is one fancy grill housed in Calle Avellanos 8, 09003
Modern Spanish a colonial mansion with many Tel 947 20 59 49
Plaza del Doctor Gereda 1, 28491 works of art. Their signature dish Delve into tasty snacks at this
Tel 918 56 04 05 Closed Sun, Wed & is cochinillo (piglet). urban tavern. Plenty of
Thu dinner; Mon & Tue vegetarian-friendly options.
El Rumba does wonderful ASTORGA: Las Termas €
charcoal-grilled local meats, and Regional Spanish CANEDO: Prada a Tope-Palacio
a sprinkling of modern dishes like Calle Santiago 1, 24700 de Canedo €
scallops with citrus and salmorejo. Tel 987 60 22 12 Closed Mon Regional Spanish
Suitable for those with big Calle La Iglesia s/n, 24546
SAN LORENZO DE EL ESCORIAL: appetites, because the portions Tel 987 56 33 66
Casa Zaca €€ are generous. The rare cocido Hearty fare for the hungry
Traditional Spanish maragato (local stew with includes chorizo sausages
Calle Embajadores 6, San Ildefonso, cabbage, chickpeas and seven marinated in wine.
28200 different meats) is a speciality.
Tel 921 47 00 87 Closed Tue–Fri CARRIÓN DE LOS CONDES:
dinner; Mon ATAPUERCA: Comosapiens € La Corte €€
A former coaching inn now Regional Spanish Regional Spanish
boasts the town’s most elegant Camino de Santiago 24–26, 09199 Calle Santa María 36, 34120
restaurant, featuring classic fare, Tel 947 43 05 01 Closed Wed Tel 979 88 01 38 Closed Fri (except
such as cocido (chickpea stew), This refurbished straw loft has Aug); mid-Oct–mid-Apr
callos (beef tripe stew) and a a menu that brings Castilian- Refuel while walking the Camino
delicious lamb stew. Leonese tradition up to speed. de Santiago at this hostel rest-
aurant, specializing in filling
TOLEDO: La Abadía € ÁVILA: Alcaravea € Castilian cuisine. Open for
Traditional Spanish Regional Spanish breakfast, lunch and dinner.
Plaza de San Nicolas 3, 45002 Plaza Catedral 15, 05001
Tel 925 25 11 40 Tel 920 22 66 00 Closed Sun dinner COVARRUBIAS: Casa Galin €
Enjoy seasonal tapas in a 16th- The menu here features local Regional Spanish
century setting. Wash the food staples that have been passed Plaza Doña Urraca 4, 09346
down with a beer from their down over the years. Tel 974 40 65 52 Closed Tue, Sun
extensive international selection. dinner
Indulge in Castilian-style fare
TOLEDO: Adolfo €€€ here, with salty sopa castellana
Modern Spanish (garlic soup) and the classic olla
Calle Hombre de Palo 7, 45001 podrida (a pork and bean stew).
Tel 925 22 73 21
Dine under a splendid EL BURGO DE OSMA:
artesanado ceiling at Adolfo, Virrey Palafox €
where sophisticated versions Traditional Spanish
of Toledano dishes are Calle Universidad 7, 42300
accompanied by excellent wines. Tel 975 34 13 11 Closed Mon & Sun
This elegant hotel restaurant
boasts suckling roast piglet as
its signature dish.
Castilla y León
GUIJUELO: El Pernil Ibérico €
AMPUDIA: El Arambol Traditional Spanish
de Casa del Abad € Calle Chinarral 62, 37770
Traditional Spanish Tel 923 58 14 02
Plaza Francisco Martín Gromaz 12, Enjoy excellent cold meats at
34191 Mesón Cuevas del Vino in Chinchon, for this tavern. If you don’t leave full
Tel 979 76 80 08 classic fare in a rustic setting enough, you can buy them, too.
Key to Price Guide see page 582
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WHERE T O EA T AND DRINK  595

A beautiful 18th-century mansion
provides a sublime setting for
exciting contemporary cuisine.
Extensive wine list.
SORIA: Baluarte €
Modern Spanish
Calle Caballeros 14, 42002
Tel 975 21 36 58
Enjoy a fine gastronomic
experience during the mushroom
and black truffle season at this
Michelin-starred restaurant.
TORDESILLAS:
Bar-Restaurante Figón €
Traditional Spanish
Plaza Pepe Zorita 22, 47100
Elegant place settings at El Rincon de Antonio, Zamora Tel 983 77 13 98 Closed Wed dinner
Octopus salad is a popular dish
LEÓN: La Gitana € Michelin-starred establishment at this laid-back local. A greater
Regional Spanish doing Nouveau Cas tilian cuisine menu selection than elsewhere.
Calle de las Carnicerías 7, 24003 with a Basque twist.
Tel 987 21 51 71 Closed Thu VALLADOLID: La Parrilla
In the pedestrianized Húmedo SALAMANCA: iPan iVino € de San Lorenzo €
neighbourhood, La Gitana is a Tapas Traditional Spanish
relaxed place – you can use Calle Felipe Espino 10, 37002 Calle Pedro Niño 1, 47001
bread to mop up your plate. Tel 923 26 86 77 Tel 983 33 50 88
Colourful wine bar with creative Located in the basement of a
LEÓN: Cocinandos €€ tapas and probably the best wine monastery, this grill is a treasure
Modern Spanish menu in the city. trove of antiques. The menu is just
Calle Campanillas 1, 24008 as traditional with family recipes
Tel 987 07 13 78 Closed Mon & Sun SALAMANCA: Zazu Bistro €€ handed down through generations.
Marrying style with substance, Mediterranean
this Michelin-starred gem offers a Plaza de la Libertad 8, 37002 DK Choice
sophisticated take on traditional Tel 923 26 16 90
Castilian recipes. This stylish restaurant pays ZAMORA: El Rincón de
tribute to Mediterranean cuisine Antonio €€
LEÓN: Delirios €€ with nods to classic French and Regional Spanish
Modern Spanish Italian recipes. Wine list to match. C/ de la Rúa de los Francos 6, 49001
Calle Ave María 2, 24007 Tel 980 53 53 70
Tel 987 23 76 99 Closed Mon & Sun SEGOVIA: El Bernandino € Housed in a 19th-century
dinner (all day Sun in summer) Traditional Spanish mansion in medieval Zamora,
This central restaurant, located Calle Cervantes 2, 40001 the kitchen utilizes local
just around the corner from Tel 921 46 24 77 products to recreate the food of
the cathedral, is a temple to Updated Castillian cuisine with Zamora of old. There are bite-
modern gastronomy. Innovative traditional roots, served up in a sized tapas offerings at the bar.
cuisine, emphasizing the use of graceful town house. The town’s Choose from a cellar offering
local products. star dish, roast suckling pig, is the 800 different vintages, along
house speciality. with cava, liqueurs and spirits.
PALENCIA: Asador La Encina €
Regional Spanish SEGOVIA: Cueva de
Calle de Casañe 2, 34002 San Esteban €
Tel 979 71 09 36 Traditional Spanish
Famous for its tortilla de patata Calle de Valdeláguila 15, 40001 Castilla-La Mancha
(Spanish omelette), this modern Tel 921 46 09 82
grill does the simple things well. The jamón hanging from the
ceiling gives you an idea how
PALENCIA: La Traserilla €€ traditional this restaurant is. DK Choice
Regional Spanish ALBACETE: Álvarez €
Calle de San Marcos 12, 34001 SEGOVIA: Restaurante Regional Spanish
Tel 979 74 54 21 José María €€ Calle Carmen 42, 02005
Also known as Casa de Comidas Regional Spanish Tel 967 21 82 69
(House of Food), the old exterior Calle Cronista Lecea 11, 40001 If you grew up in Castilla-La
contrasts with the modern decor. Tel 921 46 11 11 Mancha, a meal here would be
Big on meat and vegetables. Chef José María Ruiz Benito a nostalgic experience. For this
combines Segovian staples with is food Mama used to make.
SALAMANCA: La Cocina the latest gastro nomic fashions. There are croquettes of various
de Toño € stuffings, gazpacho manchego
Modern Spanish SIGUENZA: El Doncel €€ (meat-based stew) and cordero
Calle de la Gran Vía 20, 37001 Modern Spanish asado (roast lamb). Desserts in-
Tel 923 26 39 77 Closed Sun dinner; Paseo de la Alameda 3 clude a ricotta and almond flan.
Mon Tel 949 39 00 01
For more information on types of restaurants see page 577
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596  TR A VELLERS ‘ NEEDS

ALBACETE: Nuestro Bar € The stylish, contemporary OCAÑA: Restaurante Palio €€
Regional Spanish ambience in this restaurant is in Regional Spanish
Calle Alcalde Conangla 102, 02002 contrast to the traditional tapas Calle Mayor 12, 45300
Tel 967 24 33 73 and raciónes on offer. Tel 925 13 00 45 Closed Sun–Wed
Part bar, part restaurant, part dinner
museum. Traditional agricultural CUENCA: El Secreto € This restaurant prides itself on its
equipment and antique cooking Regional Spanish attention to detail – its home-
utensils adorn the walls. Calle Alfonso VIII, 81, 16001 made bread uses stone-ground
Tel 678 61 13 01 Closed Tue dinner; organic flour.
ALBACETE: Restaurante Wed
Don Gil €€ Feast off the à la carte menu OROPESA: Tierra €€€
Modern Spanish or share the mouth watering Modern Spanish
Calle Baños 2, 02004 tapas. Special set menus Calle de la Oropesa 9, 45572
Tel 967 23 97 85 Closed Mon for vegetarians. Tel 925 45 75 34
Located alongside the Mercado Enjoy gourmet fare in this Michelin-
de Villacerrada, this is where CUENCA: Figón de Huécar €€ starred restaurant in the luxurious
Albacete‘s in crowd come to eat. Spanish Hotel Valdepalacios. Its name,
Calle Julián Romero 6, 16001 meaning “land”, refers to the area’s
ALCOCER: Casa Goyo € Tel 696 24 00 62 Closed Mon richness of culture, agriculture
Regional Spanish The erstwhile family residence of and cuisine. Warm atmosphere.
Calle Mayor 44, 19125 a famous local singer enjoys spec-
Tel 949 35 50 03 Closed Mon tacular views over the Huécar SAN PEDRO: Restaurante
Hostal España‘s in-house Gorge. Its terrace is beautifully lit Montecristo €
restaurant is a rustic affair. Make up at night. Regional Spanish
sure you go with an appetite Paseo de la Libertad, 14, 03360
because the portions are huge. GUADALAJARA: (Albacete)
Amparito Roca €€ Tel 967 36 44 55 Closed Tue
ALMAGRO: El Corregidor € Modern Spanish Red meat and fresh fish
Regional Spanish Calle de Toledo 19, 19002 dominate the menu at this
Calle de Jerónimo Ceballos 2, 13270 Tel 949 21 46 39 Closed Sun dinner established riverside restaurant.
Tel 926 86 06 48 Tiled floor, wooden walls and a
Housed in an 18th-century flower on every table makes TALAVERA DE LA REINA:
palace, there are different dining eating at this experimental Taberna Mingote €
rooms that surround a traditional restaurant feel like an event. Tapas
patio. Classic Manchegan cuisine. Plaza Federico García Lorca 5, 45600
ILLESCAS: El Bohío €€€ Tel 925 82 56 33
CIUDAD REAL: Modern Spanish Small tables give this tavern a
Pago del Vicario €€ Avenida Castilla-La Mancha 81, 45200 lively atmosphere, even when
Traditional Spanish Tel 925 51 11 26 it‘s not packed. Tapas options
Carretera Ciudad Real–Porzuna, Chef Pepe Rodríguez has been change during the week.
km 16, 13196 awarded a Michelin star for the
Tel 926 66 60 27 traditional yet inventive menu TALAVERA DE LA REINA:
Overlooking the barrel room and at El Bohío. Penalty €€
the vineyard, this place offers a Seafood
fusion cuisine. The Manchegan MARCHAMALO: Restaurante Calle de la Cabeza del Moro 5, 45600
roast lamb goes superbly with Las Llaves €€ Tel 925 81 53 44 Closed Mon
the wines from one of the best Modern Spanish Ensuring the highest quality of
wine cellars of the region. Plaza Mayor 16, 19180 ingredients, Penalty imports its
Tel 949 25 04 85 Closed Mon fish and shellfish from Galicia,
CUENCA: Raff € Pass through the grand portal one of Spain’s most noted areas
Tapas of a 16th-century building to for seafood.
Calle Federico García Lorca 3, 16004 discover a suitably elegant interior.
Tel 969 69 08 55 Foie gras features on the menu. TARANCÓN: Restaurante
Hospedería, Finca La Estacada €€
Regional Spanish
Carretera Nnal 400 km 103, 16400
Tel 969 32 71 88
Housed in a luxury complex which
includes a hotel, spa and vineyard,
this restaurant offers excellent
views of the vines which produce
its highly regarded wines.
TOLEDO: Casa Aurelio €
Regional Spanish
Plaza del Ayuntamiento 8, 45002
Tel 925 22 77 16 Closed Tue
Dishes to make your mouth
water at this Toledo institution
include the delectable crêpe de
bacalao con crema de cigala and
pâté de sardinas (cod crepe with
The elegant Restaurante Hospedería, Finca La Estacada, Tarancón lobster cream and sardine pâté).
Key to Price Guide see page 582
582-605_EW_Spain.indd 596 26/09/17 11:56 am

WHERE T O EA T AND DRINK  597

TOLEDO: Madre Tierra € CÁCERES: Torre de Sande €€
Vegetarian Modern Spanish
Bajada de la Tripería 2, 45001 Calle de los Condes 3, 10003
Tel 925 22 35 71 Closed Tue, Mon Tel 927 21 11 47 Closed Mon, Tue
dinner On the historic main square, this
Enjoy the fruits (and vegetables) modern restaurant offers a wide
of Mother Earth at Toledo‘s first range of tapas and à la carte
vegetarian restaurant, comple­ dishes based on local recipes.
mented with extensive tea and
wine lists. CÁCERES: Atrio €€€
Regional Spanish
TOLEDO: Restaurante Locum €€ Plaza de San Mateo 1, 10003
Regional Spanish Tel 927 24 29 28
Calle de Locum 6, 45001 One of the finest restaurants in
Tel 925 22 32 35 Closed Tue Spain, with two Michelin stars,
A short walk from Toledo‘s Atrio serves modern cuisine The warm red-and-white coloured interior
cathedral you‘ll find a traditional with sterling service. of Restaurante Palio, Ocaña
restaurant featuring the likes of
rabo del toro (stewed bull tail). GUADALUPE: Hospedería
del Real Monasterio € Seville
TOLEDO: Adolfo €€€ Regional Spanish
Modern Spanish Plaza de Juan Carlos I s/n, 10140 El Arenal
Calle del Hombre de Palo 7, 45001 Tel 927 36 70 00
Tel 925 22 73 21 Closed Sun dinner Located in a Plateresque cloister Bodeguita Casablanca €
The pleasant roof terrace offers and run by Franciscans, this place Tapas Map 3 C2
panoramic views of the city is popular for its traditional Calle Adolfo Rodriguez Jurado 12,
below. Wine is sourced from the roasted lamb. 41002
restaurant's private vineyard. Tel 954 22 41 14 Closed Sun;
MERIDA: Ilunion Merida Palace € Sat dinner
VALDEPEÑAS: La Fonda Regional Spanish Family­run tapas bar with a no­
de Alberto € Plaza España 19, 06800 frills decor of tiles and barrel
Modern Spanish Tel 924 38 38 00 tables. Popular with locals.
Calle del Cristo 67, 13300 This restaurant, in a 16th­century
Tel 926 31 61 76 Closed Mon palace­cum­hotel, offers elegant La Brunilda Tapas €
Cold soups and salads are the dining in relaxed surroundings. Tapas Map 3 B1
highlights of summer menus Calle Galera 5, 41001
while hearty red meat dishes TRUJILLO: Corral del Rey € Tel 954 22 04 81 Closed Sun dinner
feature in winter. Along with a Regional Spanish Bright, modern bar with excellent
wine list 300+ strong. Plazuela Corral del Rey 2 (Plaza tapas, such as succulent ox sirloin
Mayor), 10200 with thyme potatoes and
VALDEPEÑAS: Venta del Tel 927 32 30 71 Closed winter: Sun chicken breast with polenta and
Comendador de la Villa de & Wed dinner; summer: all day Sun wild mushrooms.
Valdepeñas € Specializing in roasted meat and
Regional Spanish fish with an extensive wine & Santa Cruz
Calle de Bernardo Balbuena 2, 13300 cigar menu. Off the main square.
Tel 926 31 22 26 Casa Plácido €
Food like grandmother used to TRUJILLO: La Troya € Tapas Map 6 E4
make: fine breads with thyme, Regional Spanish Mesón del Moro 5, 41004
rosemary and mint flavours. Good, Plaza Mayor 10, 10200 Tel 954 56 39 71 Closed Thu
central location. Tel 927 32 13 64 Diminutive tapas bar in heart of
On the main square, this 16th­ the old quarter. Traditional decor
century mesón serves typical of tiles and bullfight posters,
Spanish cuisine in hearty portions plus hanging hams. Fino from
Extremadura – the lamb stew is recommended. the barrel. Excellent tortillas.
ALANGE: Meson Trinidad € ZAFRA: Parador € DK Choice
Regional Spanish Regional Spanish
Encomienda 51, 06840 Plaza Corazon de Maria 7, 06300 La Quinta Braseria €
Tel 924 36 50 66 Closed Tue Tel 924 55 45 40 Modern Spanish Map 6 E2
This family­run inn serves Soak up the surroundings at this Plaza Padre Jeronimo de Cordoba
authentic local dishes in a friendly 15th­century castle while tasting 11, 41003
atmosphere with spectacular tapas or dining from the à la Tel 954 60 00 16 Closed Sun
views of the castle. carte menu. dinner; Mon
Dine at this elegant restaurant
CÁCERES: El Figón de Eustaquio € ZAFRA: Ramirez € with attentive service and
Regional Spanish Regional Spanish excellent choices. Start with
Plaza de San Juan 12–14, 10003 Avenida San Miguel 18, 06300 Zafra the croquetas de pollo y trufa
Tel 927 24 43 62 Closed 1–15 Jul Tel 924 55 51 38 negra (chicken and black truffle
In the heart of the historic centre, Lively lunchtime or relaxed croquettes) or the tartare,
this long­standing and resolutely evening dining in this centrally followed by one of their juicy
old­fashioned restaurant has located diner which offers an grilled meat selections.
been preparing tasty dishes since extensive range of local cuisine Reservations suggested.
1947. Their speciality is game. and informal tapas.
For more information on types of restaurants see page 577
582-605_EW_Spain.indd 597 26/09/17 11:56 am

598  TR A VELLERS ‘ NEEDS

Casa Robles €€ Eslava € Fabulous riverside establishment
Traditional Spanish Map 3 C1 Seafood Map 1 C4 with stunning vierws. Windowed
Calle Alvarez Quintero 58, 41001 Calle Eslava 3, 41002 El Cubo section has “floating
Tel 954 56 32 72 Tel 954 90 65 68 Closed Mon; glass” floor. Superb international
This prize-winning eating spot Sun dinner and Mediterranean cuisine. Also
boasts a stunning decor of Simple, unadorned eating spot exquisite tasting menus.
paintings, statues and coloured featuring creative Andalucían
tiles. On the menu is a great fish cuisine. First-rate seafood and
and shellfish selection, plus salads and inventive choice of
delectable home-made desserts. tapas. Hugely popular. Andalucía
Diners enjoy cathedral views
from the restaurant terrace and Mesón Guadalquivir € ALGECIRAS: La Cabaña €
the best wine list in Seville. Traditional Spanish Map 4 E3 Traditional Spanish
Calle Camilo José Cela 1, 41018 Avenida Agua Marina 5, 11203
Doña Elvira €€ Tel 954 92 41 39 Closed Sun Tel 956 66 73 79 Closed Mon
Traditional Spanish Map 3 C2 High-standard, reasonably priced Warm, traditional restaurant with
Plaza de Doña Elvira 6, 41004 Andalucían cuisine in a chic- indoor and terrace dining.
Tel 954 22 73 88 yet-traditional city favourite. Offerings include Galician style
The legendary Don Juan has Exceptional chipiron a la plancha octopus and charcoal-grilled
links with this traditional Sevillan (freshly grilled squid) and home- sirloin steaks.
restaurant. You can dine indoors made lemon sorbet.
or al fresco, on the open-air ALGECIRAS: Maridaje €
terrace. Known for its innovative Torre de los Perdigones € Tapas
salads, paella and rice dishes, Fusion Map 2 D3 Calle Buen Aire 9, 11201
seafood and meat. Calle Resolana s/n, 41009 Tel 646 48 64 08 Closed Sun
Tel 954 90 93 53 Sleek restaurant serving tasty,
Restaurant set next to the tower, large tapas. Try the surtido de atun,
amid parklands. Dishes include a plate of tuna prepared in various
Further Afield arroz marinero (rice with seafood) ways. Good selection of wines. No
and merluza al cava con langostinos reservations accepted, so get here
Bar Antojo € (hake in a sparkling-wine sauce early before the queues start.
Fusion Map 1 C3 with langoustines). Summer
Calatrava 44, 41002 terrace with live music. ALMERÍA: Casa Sevilla €
Tel 955 42 53 37 Seafood
A unique bar with mismatched DK Choice Calle Rueda López s/n, 04004
furniture, bookshelves and a Tel 950 27 29 12 Closed Sun
relaxed atmosphere, Bar Antojo Vega 10 € Sociable family restaurant serving
offers creative takes on regional Fusion Map 3 B3 fresh seafood dishes. Go for the
comfort food, with a bit of inter- Rosario Vega 10, 41011 tempura de bacalao sobre arroz
national fusion thrown in for Tel 955 23 77 48 Closed Sun meloso de hongos (cod tempura
good measure. Vega 10 offers creative dishes on a bed of creamy mushroom
that change according to rice). Monthly wine tastings.
Con Tenedor € season, using fresh, high-quality
Mediterranean Map 2 E4 ingredients. The tapas menu ALMERÍA: Rincón de
Calle San Luis 50, 41003 changes daily as well. Also Juan Pedro €
Tel 954 91 63 33 boasts a good wine selection. Traditional Spanish
A top-value spot with friendly Calle Federico Castro 2, 04003
service, Con Tenedor serves up Tel 950 27 81 67
dishes made from fresh market Abades Triana €€€ Almeria town tapas favourite
produce. It also hosts art Seafood Map 3 B3 with larger raciónes for the extra-
exhibitions and live music on Calle Betis 69, 41010 hungry. Serves pungent hams,
Tuesday evenings. Tel 954 28 64 59 chorizos and cheeses, plus local
specialities like trigo a la cortijera
(wheat berry and sausage stew).
ALMERÍA: Club de Mar €€
Seafood
Playa de Almadrabillas 1, 04007
Tel 950 23 50 48 Closed Tue
Stylish restaurant in Almeria’s
prestigious yacht club. Seafront
terrace. Renowned for its
bouillabaisse and fried fish platters.
ALMERÍA: Valentin €€
Seafood
Calle Tenor Iribarne 19, 04001
Tel 950 26 44 75 Closed Mon; Sep
This popular marisquería (restau-
rant specializing in shellfish)
has been given a nod by the
Michelin Guide. Everything is
Abades Triana seafood restaurant in Seville market-fresh.
Key to Price Guide see page 582

582-605_EW_Spain.indd 598 26/09/17 11:56 am