(DK Eyewitness) Travel Guide - Spain

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decorated chapels and Gothic
choirstalls, which were brought
here from Cuenca Cathedral (see
p389). There is also outstanding
ironwork, a Renaissance reredos
and the font at which the
Golden Age poet Fray Luis de
León (1527–91) was baptized.
Environs
Two villages near Belmonte
also flourished under the
Marquis of Villena. The church
at Villaescusa de Haro, 6 km
(4 miles) to the northeast, has
an outstanding 16th-century
reredos. San Clemente, some
40 km (25 miles) further south- The chalk cliffs of Alcalá del Júcar, honeycombed with tunnels
east, clusters around two
near-perfect Renaissance siege. It was later acquired by de Júcar, along which you can
squares. There is a Gothic the Marquis of Villena. Alarcón drive for a stretch of 40 km
alabaster cross in the Iglesia has drama tic walls and three (25 miles). Alcalá del Júcar is
de Santiago Apóstol. defensive precincts. The small, dramatically sited on the side
triangular castle, high above of a spur of rock jut ting out into
P Castillo de Belmonte the river, has been turned into the gorge. The town is a warren
Tel 967 81 00 40. Open Tue–Sun. & a parador, preserving much of of steep al leys and flights of
its medieval atmosphere. steps. At the top of the town,
The Iglesia de Santa María below the castle, houses have
is a Renaissance church with a been extended by digging
fine portico and an altarpiece caves into the soft rock. Some
attributed to the Berruguete of these have been transformed
school. The nearby Iglesia de into tunnels cut from one side
Santísima Trinidad is in Gothic- of the spur to the other.
Plateresque style (see p29).
Environs
To the west, the gorge runs past
a Alcalá del Júcar fertile orchards to the Baroque
Albacete. * 1,350. n Avenida de Ermita de San Lorenzo. Further
los Robles 1, 967 47 30 90 (Sat & Sun on is the pic turesque village
only). ( Sun. _ San Lorenzo of Jorquera, which wa s an
(7–15 Aug). ∑ alcaladeljucar.net independent state for a brief
The castle of Alarcón, which has been period during the Middle Ages,
converted into a state-run parador Where the Rio Júcar runs refusing to be ruled by the
through the chalk hills to the Crown. It re tains its Arab walls. A
p Alarcón northeast of Albacete, it cuts a collec tion of shields is on display
deep, winding gorge, the Hoz in the Casa del Corregidor.
Cuenca. * 200. n Calle Posadas 6,
969 33 03 01. _ San Sebastián (20
Jan), Fiesta del Emigrante (Aug), Cristo Don Quixote’s La Mancha
de la Fe (14 Sep). ∑ descubre
alarcon.es Cervantes (see p337) doesn’t
specify where his hero was born,
Perfectly preserved, the fortified but several places are mentioned
village of Alarcón guards a in the novel. Don Quixote is
narrow loop of the Río Júcar from knighted in an inn in Puerto
on top of a rock. As you drive Lápice, believing it to be a
through its defences, you may castle. His sweetheart, Dulcinea,
have the impression of entering lives in El Toboso. The windmills
a film set for a medieval epic. he tilts at, im agining them to
be giants, are thought to be
The village dates back to the those at Campo de Criptana.
8th century. It became a key Another adven ture takes place
military base for the Recon quest in the Cueva de Montesinos
(see pp58–9) and was recaptured (see p401). Illustration from a 19th-century
from the Moors by Alfonso VIII edition of Don Quixote
in 1184 following a nine-month



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s Albacete ivory dolls to 20th-century Environs
paintings. The cathedral, begun Chinchilla de Monte Aragón,
Albacete. * 172,500. £ @
n Plaza del Altozano, 967 63 in 1515 and devoted to San 12 km (7 miles) to the south east,
00 04 (closed Sun pm). ( Tue. Juan Bautista, has Renaissance has a well-preserved old quarter.
_ Virgen de los Llanos (8 Sep). altarpieces. Above the town is the shell of
∑ albaceteturistico.es Albacete, also known for its its 15th-century castle (closed
daggers and jackknives, crafted to the public).
This provincial capital is not here since Muslim times, holds Almansa, 70 km (43 miles)
without its attractions. The an agricultural fair, every year. further east, is dominated by
excellent Museo de Albacete another imposing castle, which
is located in a pleasant park E Museo de Albacete is of Moorish origin.
and has exhibits ranging Parque Abelardo Sánchez. Tel: 967 22
from Iberian sculptures and 83 07. Open Tue–Sun (Jul–mid-Sep:
unique Roman amber and am only). & (free Sat & Sun). 7 f Alcaraz
Albacete. * 1,600. n Calle Mayor 3,
967 38 09 60 (closed Mon). ( Wed.
_ Canto de Los Mayos (30 Apr–1
May), La Romería de la Virgen (26 Aug,
8 Sep), Feria (4–9 Sep). ∑ alcaraz.es
An important Arab and Chris tian
stronghold, Alcaraz’s military
power waned after the
Reconquest but its economy
flourished around its (now
de funct) carpet-making industry.
Standing in the attractive
The castle of Chinchilla de Monte Aragón, overlooking the town Renaissance Plaza Mayor are the
d Sierra de Alcaraz Albacete
Peñascosa
Where the Sierras of Segura and Alcaraz push Alcaraz
northwards into the southeastern plains of Jaén J
La Mancha, they form spectacular mountains, Cortes
broken up by dramatic gorges and fertile
valleys. The source of the Río Mundo is a
favourite beauty spot. Nearby Riópar is perched S I E R R A D E A L C A R A Z
on the side of the mountain and has a charming Bogarra
15th-century parish church. Among the less-
explored villages, Letur, Ayna, Yeste and Liétor
are especially picturesque. Their narrow,
winding streets and craft traditions clearly
reflect their Muslim origins.

Riópar
5 Source of the Río Mundo
The river begins as a waterfall, inside Mundo El Pardal
the Cueva de Los Chorros, and
tumbles down a dramatic cliff face
C A L A R D E L M U N D O
into a bubbling spring at the bottom.
0 kilometres 5
0 miles 5
4 Yeste
Key The village of Yeste, which stands
Tour route at the foot of the Sierra de Ardal, is Embalse
de la
crowned by a hilltop Arab castle. It was Fuensanta
Other roads reconquered under Fernando III, and
was later ruled by the Order of Santiago.
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp570–71 and pp595–7


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g Lagunas de
“twin towers” of Tardón and
Trinidad, and an 18th­century Ruidera
commodity exchange, the Lonja Ciudad Real. @ Ruidera. n Avenida
del Corregidor, with Plateresque Castilla la Mancha 47, Ruidera (Sep–
decoration. The square is Jun: Wed–Sun, Jul–Aug: daily), 926 52
surrounded by lively, narrow 81 16. ∑ lagunasderuidera.es
streets. On the outskirts of the
town are the castle ruins and Once nicknamed “The Mirrors
surviving arch of a Gothic of La Mancha”, the 15 inter­
aqueduct. Alcaraz makes a connected lakes which make
good base for touring the up the Parque Natural de las
sierras of Alcaraz and Segura. Lagunas de Ruidera stretch
for 39 km (24 miles) through
a valley. They allegedly take One of the lakes in the Parque Natural de
their name from a story in las Lagunas de Ruidera
Don Quixote (see p399) in which
a certain Mistress Ruidera, her threat due to the number of
daughters and her nieces are tourists, and the development
said to have been turned into of holiday chalets on the lakes’
lakes by a magician. shores. Near one of the lakes, the
La Mancha’s lakes have Laguna de San Pedro, is the Cueva
recovered well from the recent de Montesinos, a deep, explor­
years’ falling water table, and are able cave which was also used
especially worth visit ing for their as the setting for an episode in
wealth of wildlife, which includes Don Quixote.
great and little bustards, herons To the northwest, the lakes
The “twin towers” of Tardón and Trinidad and many types of duck. The wild­ link up with the Embalse de
on Alcaraz’s main square life has increasingly come under Peñarroya reservoir.

1 Ayna
The village of Ayna is set deep
in a gorge of the Río Mundo.
There are spectacular views
over the countryside from
the Mirador del Diablo.



El Griego
Bogarra
Bogarra Foothills of the Sierra de Alcaraz
J 2 Liétor Worth visiting in this
Mundo J Hellín small hillside village are the
El Ginete Gothic Ermita de Belén and
the Iglesia de Santiago, with
CM3203 a trompe l’oeil altarpiece.

Hellín
El Pardal Molinicos Tips for Drivers
C A L A R D E L M U N D O Elche de la Tour length: 280 km (175 miles).
Stopping-off points: All of
Sierra
these villages have bars and
restaurants. Alternatively, there
are numerous places along the
way to stop for a picnic.
Embalse J Juan Quílez 3 Letur
de la
Fuensanta Férez With its pretty whitewashed Jewish
quarter, this is perhaps the most
Casas del picturesque village in the area.
Collado Murcia
For keys to symbols see back flap


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h Villanueva de festival in September. In the mansion commissioned in 1564
los Infantes network of older streets around by the Marquis of Santa Cruz,
the café-lined Plaza de España the admiral of the fleet that
Ciudad Real. * 5,800. @ n Calle are the Iglesia de la Asunción defeated the Turks at Lepanto in
Cervantes 16, 926 36 13 21. ( Fri. _ and the municipal museum. 1571 (see p63). One of the main
Cruz de Mayo (2–3 May), Ferias (late Valdepeñas has over 30 features of the house is a Classical
Aug), Fiesta del Pimiento (1st week of bodegas, 10 of which can be patio. Inside, the main rooms are
Sep). ∑ villanuevadelosinfantes.es
visited. One of them has been decorated with Italian frescoes.
Villanueva’s Old Town, which converted into the Museo del
centres on the graceful Neo- Vino, illustrating the various Environs
Classical Plaza Mayor, is one stages of wine production. About 25 km (16 miles)
of the most attractive in La northeast is Spain’s oldest
Mancha. Many buildings on the E Museo del Vino bullring at Las Virtudes. It was
square have wooden balconies Calle Princesa 39. Tel 926 32 11 11. built in 1641 next to a 14th-
and arcades. Also on the square Open Tue–Sat & Sun am. & century church, which has
is the Iglesia de San Andrés, a Churrigueresque altarpiece.
which has a Renaissance façade.
Inside are a Baroque altarpiece P Palacio del Viso
and organ, as well as the (now Plaza del Pradillo 12. Tel 926 33 75 18.
empty) tomb of the Golden Age Open Tue–Sun am. Closed some
author Francisco de Quevedo. public hols. & 8
He lived and died in the
Convento de los Domínicos.
l Calatrava la
Environs Nueva
The village of San Carlos del Ciudad Real. Aldea del Rey. Tel 926 69
Valle, 25 km (15 miles) to the 31 19. Open Tue–Sun. & ∑ castillo
northwest, has an 18th-century decalatrava.com
square and galleried houses
of rust-red stone. Magnificent in its isolated
hilltop setting, the ruined
Courtyard of the Palacio del Viso in castle-monastery of Calatrava
j Valdepeñas Viso del Marqués la Nueva is reached by a stretch
of original medieval road.
Ciudad Real. * 31,200. £ @ k Viso del Marqués
n Plaza de España, 926 31 25 52. It was founded in 1217 by
( Thu. _ Grape Harvest (1–8 Sep). Ciudad Real. * 2,750. @ n Calle the Knights of Calatrava, Spain’s
∑ valdepenas.es Real 39, 926 33 68 15 (closed Sun pm first military-religious order (see
& Mon). ( Tue. _ San Andrés p58), to be their headquarters.
Valdepeñas is the capital of (second Sun of May), Feria (24–28 Jul). The complex is of huge
La Mancha’s vast wine region, ∑ visodelmarques.es proportions, with a double patio
the world’s largest expanse and a church with a triple nave.
of vineyards, producing vast The small village of Viso del The church has been restored
quantities of red wine (see Marqués in La Mancha is the and is illu minated by a beau-
pp344–5). This largely modern unlikely setting of the Palacio tiful rose window above the
town comes alive for its wine del Viso, a grand Renaissance entrance. After the Reconquest,


















Expanse of vineyards near Valdepeñas
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp570–71 and pp595–7


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Calatrava la Nueva castle-monastery, dominating the plains of La Mancha
the building continued to be Environs towers. Breeding birds here
used as a monastery until it was To the northwest is Ciudad Real, include great crested grebes
abandoned in 1802 following founded by Alfonso X the and mallards. Otters and red
fire damage. Learned in 1255. Its sights foxes are also found in the park.
Opposite the castle are the include the Iglesia de San Pedro
ruins of a Muslim frontier fortress, and the Mudéjar gate way, the
Salvatierra, which was captured Puerta de Toledo. c Valle de Alcudia
from the Moors by the Order of Ciudad Real. @ Fuencaliente. n Plaza
Calatrava in the 12th century. Mayor 41, 926 47 02 88 (closed Mon).
Alcudia’s lush lowlands, which
z Almagro border the Sierra Morena
foothills to the south, are
Ciudad Real. * 9,100. £ @
n Ejido de Calatrava 1, 926 86 07 17. among Central Spain’s most
( Wed. _ Virgen de las Nieves unspoiled countryside. The area
(5 Aug), San Bartolomé (23–24 Aug). is used largely as pastureland.
∑ ciudad-almagro.com In late autumn it is filled with
sheep, whose milk makes the
Almagro was disputed during farmhouse cheese for which
the Reconquest, until the Order the valley is known.
of Calatrava captured it and Raised walkway in the Parque Nacional The mountain village of
built the castle of Calatrava la de Las Tablas de Daimiel Fuencaliente has thermal baths
Nueva to the southwest of the that open in the summer. Further
town. The rich architec tural x Tablas de Daimiel north, Almadén is the site of
heritage of the atmos pheric Ciudad Real. @ Daimiel. n Daimiel, a large mercury mine with a
Old Town is partly the legacy Calle Santa Teresa s/n, 926 26 06 39 museum. Chillón, to the north-
of the Fugger brothers, the (closed Mon). 8 book in advance. west, has a Late Gothic church.
Habsburgs’ bankers who ∑ lastablasdedaimiel.com
settled in nearby Almadén
during the 16th century. The marshy wetlands of the
The town’s main attraction Tablas de Daimiel, northeast
is its colonnaded stone plaza, of Ciudad Real, are the feed ing
with enclosed, green balconies. and nesting grounds of a huge
On one side is a 17th-century range of aquatic and migratory
courtyard-theatre the Corral birds. Despite being national
de Comedias – where a drama parkland since 1973, in recent
festival is held for the Festival years they became an ecolog-
de Teatro Clásico every summer. ical cause célèbre due to the
Other monuments worth growing threat from the area’s
seeing include the Fuggers’ lowering water table. They
Renaissance warehouse and are now fully recovered.
former university, and also One corner of the park is
the castle, which has been open to the public, with walking Small isolated farmhouse in the fertile Valle
converted into a parador. routes to islets and observation de Alcudia




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EXTREMADURA


Cáceres • Badajoz

Of all the Spanish regions, far-flung Extremadura – “the
land beyond the River Douro” – is the most unspoiled.
Green sierras run southwards through rolling hills strewn
with boulders, while forests and reservoirs shelter rare
wildlife. Even the towns, with their atmospheric old quarters
and storks nesting on spires and bell towers, exude a
romantic, slow-paced charm.

Extremadura was the birthplace of many Cancho Roano and a Roman bridge at
conquistadors and emigrants to the Alcántara. Trujillo, Zafra and Jerez de los
New World; the riches they found there Caballeros have medieval and Renaissance
financed a surge of building. Guadalupe quarters; and there are small, splendidly
monastery, in the eastern hills, is the decorated cathedrals in Plasencia, Coria
most splendid monument to the region’s and Badajoz. The castles and stout walls
New World ties. of Alburquerque and Olivenza mark
The region has three UNESCO World frontiers embattled through history.
Heritage sites, including the towns of Whether you visit for its architecture,
Mérida and Cáceres. The former is home to gastronomy, history or nature, Extremadura
some of Spain’s finest Roman architecture, makes the perfect off­the­beaten­track
including an aqueduct and a magnificent destination. Charming villages are scattered
theatre. The old town of Cáceres, with its throughout the valleys of the north, where
ancient walls, winding streets and nobles’ small rivers and streams create natural
mansions, is still marvellously intact. pools that provide swimming oppor­
Other Classical remains dot the country­ tunities during the region’s notoriously
side – notably a Tartessan temple at hot summers.


























View over the rooftops of the historic town of Cáceres
Typical pastures of the Extremadura region



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Exploring Extremadura

Extremadura is ideal for nature lovers and those who want to
get off the beaten track to discover the old Spain. It offers
beautiful driving and walking country in its northern sierras Las Hurdes Salamanca
and valleys, and exceptional wildlife in Monfragüe National Ávila
Park. Some of the best Roman ruins in Spain can be LAS HURDES Baños de Montemayor
Pinofranqueado
found throughout Extremadura, especially in the SIERRA DE GATA HERVÁS
Gata
regional capital, Mérida. The walled old town of Valverde Eljas Villanueva
Cáceres, with its well-preserved Jewish quarter, del Fresno Acebo de la Sierra MONASTERIO DE YUSTE
and the monasteries of Guadalupe and Yuste, Montehermoso Cuacos de Yuste
boasts historic sights that are not to be missed. Moraleja Jerte Jaraiz de la Vera
To the south, the Templar towns in the Sierra PLASENCIA Talayuela
Morena, such as Jerez de los Caballeros, have CORIA Malpartida de Tiétar Navalmoral Madrid
Plasencia
fine old buildings, while the small, historic Torrejoncillo Alagón Casatejada de la Mata
towns of Coria, Zafra and Llerena all make Zarza la Mayor Villareal de Embalse de
charming bases for excursions. Acehuche San Carlos PARQUE NACIONAL Valdecañas
Cañaveral DE MONFRAGÜE
Embalse de Garrovillas Tajo Torrejón Tajo
el Rubio
ALCÁNTARA Alcántara
Jaraicejo
Navas del Castañar de Ibor
Cedillo Madroño
Sights at a Glance Brozas Almonte
1 Las Hurdes Salor ARROYO Villuercas
2 Sierra de Gata VALENCIA DE DE LA LUZ CÁCERES TRUJILLO GUADALUPE
Sierra de
3 Hervás ALCÁNTARA Malpartida Madroñera Alía
4 Coria Portalegre de Cáceres La Cumbre Sierra de
5 Plasencia San Vicente Torremocha Guadalupe Embalse
de Cíjara
de Alcántara
Salor
6 Monasterio de Yuste Zorita Logrosán Castilblanco
7 Parque Nacional Alburquerque Montánchez Embalse de
Sier ra de San Pedro
de Monfragüe García de Sola
8 Guadalupe E X T R E M A D U R A Herrera del Duque
9 Trujillo Villar del Rey La Roca de Miajadas Navalvillar de Pela
0 Cáceres pp412–13 la Sierra Embalse
q Arroyo de la Luz Aljucén Santa Amalia Guadiana de Orellana Ciudad
Real
w Alcántara Villanueva de la Serena Puebla de Alcocer
e Valencia de Alcántara Lisboa Montijo MÉRIDA Don Benito
r Mérida Guareña Embalse de
Zújar
t Badajoz Lobón Villagonzalo Campanario Embalse de
La Serena
y Olivenza Guadiana BADAJOZ
u Cancho Roano La Albuera Guadajira Cabeza del
i Zafra OLIVENZA Olivenza Almendralejo Palomas Castuera Buey
o Jerez de los Caballeros CANCHO Zalamea Helechal
ROANO
Santa
p Llerena Almendral Marta de la Serena
a Tentudía Ribera del
Alconchel Fuente del Fresno Zújar
Maestre
Alcarrache Barcarrota Los Santos Peraleda del
ZAFRA de Maimona Zaucejo
Oliva de la JEREZ DE LOS Usagre
Frontera CABALLEROS Bienvenida Berlanga
Ardila
Fuente de LLERENA Azuaga
Cantos Córdoba
Fregenal de
la Sierra Calera
de León
Monesterio
TENTUDÍA
Embalse de
El Pintado
S i e r ra Morena
Sevilla
Typical Extremaduran landscape, near Albuquerque
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EX TREM ADUR A  407






Las Hurdes Salamanca Ávila
LAS HURDES Baños de Montemayor
SIERRA DE GATA HERVÁS
Pinofranqueado
Gata
Valverde Eljas Villanueva
del Fresno Acebo de la Sierra MONASTERIO DE YUSTE
Montehermoso Cuacos de Yuste
Moraleja Jerte
Jaraiz de la Vera Panoramic view of the small village of Garganta la Olla
PLASENCIA
CORIA Tiétar Talayuela
Malpartida de Madrid
Alagón Plasencia Navalmoral
de la Mata
Torrejoncillo Casatejada Key
Zarza la Mayor Villareal de
Acehuche San Carlos PARQUE NACIONAL Embalse de Motorway
Valdecañas
Cañaveral DE MONFRAGÜE Major road
Embalse de Garrovillas Tajo Torrejón Tajo Secondary road
el Rubio
ALCÁNTARA Alcántara
Jaraicejo Scenic route
Navas del Castañar de Ibor
Cedillo Madroño Main railway
Brozas Almonte
Minor railway
ARROYO Villuercas International border
Salor
VALENCIA DE DE LA LUZ GUADALUPE Regional border
Sierra de
ALCÁNTARA CÁCERES TRUJILLO
Malpartida Madroñera Alía Summit
Portalegre de Cáceres La Cumbre Sierra de
San Vicente Torremocha Guadalupe Embalse
de Alcántara Salor de Cíjara
Logrosán
Zorita Castilblanco
Embalse de
Sier ra de San Pedro
Alburquerque Montánchez García de Sola
E X T R E M A D U R A Herrera del Duque Getting Around
Villar del Rey La Roca de Miajadas Navalvillar de Pela Extremadura is not very well
la Sierra connected by air or rail services.
Santa Amalia Embalse Badajoz has the only (domestic)
Aljucén Guadiana de Orellana Ciudad
Real airport in the region, while the
Villanueva de la Serena Puebla de Alcocer main rail link is the line from
Lisboa Montijo MÉRIDA Don Benito Embalse de Madrid to Cáceres, Mérida and
Guareña Campanario Zújar Embalse de Badajoz. Coach services are
Guadiana BADAJOZ Lobón Villagonzalo La Serena infrequent in many areas, such
as the northern sierras and,
La Albuera Guadajira Palomas Castuera Cabeza del sometimes, even nonexistent.
Buey
It is generally much more
OLIVENZA Almendralejo CANCHO Zalamea convenient to travel by car.
Olivenza
Almendral Santa ROANO de la Serena Helechal
Marta
Ribera del
Alconchel Fuente del Fresno Zújar
Maestre
Alcarrache Barcarrota Los Santos Peraleda del
ZAFRA de Maimona Zaucejo
Oliva de la JEREZ DE LOS Usagre
Frontera CABALLEROS Bienvenida Berlanga
Ardila
Fuente de LLERENA Azuaga
Cantos Córdoba
Fregenal de
la Sierra Calera
de León
Monesterio
TENTUDÍA
Embalse de
El Pintado
0 kilometres 25
S i e r ra Morena
Sevilla
0 miles 15
Roman bridge crossing the Río Guadiana at Mérida
For keys to symbols see back flap
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3 Hervás
Cáceres. * 4,200. n Calle Braulio
Navas 6, 927 47 36 18. ( Sat. _ Las
Ferias Cristo de la Salud (14–16 Sep).
∑ turismodehervas.com
Sitting at the top of the Valle del
Ambroz, Hervás is known for its
medieval Jewish quarter, with
its whitewashed, half-timbered
The Melero Meander of the Alagón River, in Las Hurdes houses. The tiny streets, dotted
with taverns and craft work-
1 Las Hurdes 2 Sierra de Gata shops, slope down towards the
Río Ambroz. Just off the main
Cáceres. @ Pinofranqueado, Cáceres. @ Cáceres. n San Martín
Caminomorisco, Nuñomoral. de Trevejo, 927 51 45 85. plaza is the Museo Pérez
n Caminomorisco, 927 43 53 29 or ∑ sierradegata.org Comendador-Leroux, named
927 43 52 12. ∑ todohurdes.com after the town’s noted 20th-
There are 21 hamlets in the century sculptor and his wife,
Las Hurdes’ slate mountains and Sierra de Gata, scattered whose work is exhibited here.
goats were memorably caught in between olive groves, orchards The next town up towards
the 1932 Luis Buñuel film Tierra and fields. The area has the Béjar pass is Baños de
sin Pan (Land without Bread). The retain ed its charm by Montemayor, whose
area’s poverty disappeared with con serving hunters’ name comes from its
the arrival of roads in the 1950s, paths for woodland sulphurous baths,
but the black slopes, riverbeds walk ing, and its local which date back to
and hill terraces remain. crafts, most notably Roman times. These
A rural gem, this area is great lace-making. In were revived in the
for trekking, with mountain Valverde del Fresno, early 1900s and are
viewpoints and the Melero Eljas and San Martín open to the public. At
Meander formed by the Alagón de Trevejo, the local Cáparra, south west of
River. From Pinofranqueado, dialect, a fala, is still Hervás, four triumphal
roads climb past picturesque spoken. On the arches stand on the
“black” vill ages like Batuequilla, higher slopes, Gata Coat of arms on a house Roman road, the Vía
Fragosa and El Gasco, which sits and Villamiel have front in Acebo de la Plata (see p356).
under an extinct volcano. The remains of medieval
Lower Hurdes area, crossed by fortresses. The old granite E Museo Pérez
the Río Hurdano and the main houses have family crests Comendador-Leroux
access route (EX204), is dotted on the front and distinctive Calle Asensio Neila 5. Tel 927 48 16 55.
with camp sites and restaurants. outside staircases. Open Tue–Fri; am only Sat & Sun. &

























Traditional lace-making in one of the villages of the Sierra de Gata
For hotels and restaurants in this region see p571 and p597


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carved wooden choir stalls.
The Romanesque Catedral Vieja,
next to it, has a mu seum
with works by Ribera, and a
late 14th-century Bible.
The Museo Etno gráfico y
Textil Pérez Enciso, housed
in a 14th-century hospital, has
dis plays of crafts and costumes.
The rest of the Jerte Valley has
pockets of outstanding beauty,
such as the Garganta de los
Infiernos, a nature reserve with
dramatic, rush ing waterfalls.
E Museo Etnográfico y
Ancient wall and olive groves in the Textil Pérez Enciso A Carantoña, during the fiesta of
Valle del Ambroz Plaza del Marqués de la Puebla. St Sebastian, Acehuche
Tel 927 42 18 43. Open Mon–Sat
4 Coria (winter: Wed–Sun). Extremadura’s Fiestas
Cáceres. * 13,000. @ n Plaza de Carantoñas (20–21 Jan),
San Pedro 1, 927 50 80 00. ( Thu. 6 Monasterio de Acehúche (Cáceres). During
_ Día de la Virgen (2nd Mon in May), the fiesta of St Sebastian,
San Juan (23–29 Jun). ∑ turismo. Yuste the Carantoñas take to the
coria.org Cuacos de Yuste (Cáceres). Tel 927 17 streets of the town dressed
21 97. Open Tue–Sun. Closed some up in animal skins, with their
Coria’s walled old town, perched pub hols. & (free from 3pm Wed & faces cov ered by grotesque
above the Río Alagón, boasts a Thu for EU res; from 5pm Apr–Sep). masks designed to make
Gothic-Renaissance cathedral 7 ∑ patrimonionacional.es them look terrifying. They
with rich Plateresque carving, represent the wild beasts
and the 16th-century Convento Yuste’s Hieronymite monastery, which are said to have left
de la Madre de Dios, which has where Charles V (see p63) retired the saint unharmed.
a fine Renaissance cloister. from public life in 1557 and died Pero Palo (Carnival Feb/Mar),
Forming part of the town a year later, is remarkable for its Villanueva de la Vera
walls, which are a Muslim and sim plicity and its setting in the (Cáceres). In this ancient ritual
medieval patchwork, are an wooded valley of La Vera. The a wooden figure dressed in a
imposing castle tower, and four church’s Gothic and Plateresque suit and representing the
gates, two of which date back cloisters and the austere palace devil is paraded around the
to Roman times. The gates are are open to visitors. streets and then destroyed –
closed for the fiesta of San Juan From here, a single-track road except for the head, which is
in June for night-time bull- leads to the village of Garganta reused the year after.
running. Situated below the la Olla, with its half-timbered Los Empalaos (Maundy
Thursday), Valverde de la
old town is the Puente Seco, or architecture and the bright-blue Vera (Cáceres). Men do
Puente Viejo, a Roman bridge. Casa de las Muñecas building. penance by walking in
procession through the
5 Plasencia town with their arms
outstretched and bound to
Cáceres. * 41,000. £ @ n Santa wooden plough beams.
Clara 4, 927 42 38 43. ( Tue. _ La Encamisá (7–8 Dec),
Ferias (6–8 Jun). ∑ plasencia.es Torrejoncillo (Cáceres).
Riders on horseback,
Plasencia’s golden-grey walls, covered in white cloth,
rising above a curve in the parade around town, where
banks of the Río Jerte, tell of bonfires are set alight for
the town’s past as a military the occasion.
bastion. Nowadays Plasencia Los Escobazos (7 Dec),
is best known for its Tuesday Jarandilla de la Vera
market, dating back to the (Cáceres). At night, the
town is illuminated by
12th century. bonfires in the streets, and
A short walk away are the torches are made from
town’s two cathedrals, which burning brooms.
are built back-to-back. The
15th- to 16th-century Catedral The Casa de las Muñecas (House of the
Nueva has a Baroque organ and Dolls), a former brothel in Garganta la Olla




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7 Parque Nacional
de Monfragüe
Cáceres. @ Villarreal de San Carlos.
n Villarreal de San Carlos, 927 19
91 34. Open daily. ∑ turismo
extremadura.com
To the south of Plasencia, rolling
hills drop from scrubby peaks
through wild olive and cork
woods to the dammed Tagus
and Tiétar river valleys;
Monfragüe has outstandingly
varied wildlife, including a large
proportion of Spain’s bird Birdwatchers in the Parque Nacional de Monfragüe
species (see pp346–7).
The many species of bird which Mammals living here include time to visit the park is Sep tem-
breed here include the black- the lynx, red deer and wild boar. ber, when many mi grating birds
winged kite, black vul ture and, At Villarreal de San Carlos, a stop off here. Monfragüe was
most notably, the black stork, as hamlet founded in the 18th granted UNESCO Biosphere
well as more common aquatic century, there is parking and an Reserve status in 2003 and
species on and near the water. information centre. An ideal became a National Park in 2007.

8 Guadalupe under royal pat ronage, acquiring century later. It is a major
schools of grammar and centre of Catholicism, visited
Cáceres. * 2,000. @ n Plaza Santa
María de Guadalupe, 927 15 41 28. medicine, three hospitals, an by thousands of pilgrims.
Monasterio: Tel 927 36 70 00. Open important phar macy and one Guided tours (in Spanish
daily. & 8 only. ( Wed. _ Cruz of the largest libraries in Spain. only) begin in the museums
de Mayo (3 May), La Virgen y Día de The 16th-century hospedería of illuminated manuscripts,
la Comunidad (8 Sep). where royalty once stayed was embroidered vestments and
∑ monasterioguadalupe.com destroyed by fire; the 20th- fine art. They continue to the
century reconstruction is now a choir and the magnificent
This village grew around the hotel run by the monks. The old Baroque sacristy, nicknamed “the
magnificent Hieronymite hospital has been converted Spanish Sistine Chapel”, because
Monasterio de Guadalupe, into a parador. In the car park of Zurbarán’s portraits of monks
founded in 1340. The main is a plaque commemorating hanging on the highly decorated
square has shops that sell hand- Spain’s first human dissection, walls. For many, the chance to
made ceramics and beaten which took place here in 1402. touch or kiss the tiny Virgin’s
copper cauldrons, both tradi- By the time the New World dress in the camarín (chamber)
tional monastic crafts. was discovered, the monastery behind the altar is the highlight
The turreted towers of the was very important and in 1496 of the tour. The 16th-century
monastery, which is set in a deep was the site of the bap tism of Gothic cloister has two tiers of
wooded valley, help give it a some of the first native horse shoe arches around an
fairy-tale air. According to legend, Caribbeans brought to Europe ornate central pavilion. The
a shepherd found a wooden by Columbus (see pp60–61). church, with a magnificent
image of the Virgin Mary here The monastery was sacked 16th-century iron grille partly
in the early 14th century. The by Napoleon in 1808. It was forged from the chains of freed
monastery grew to splendour refounded by Franciscans a slaves, may be visited separately.
Environs
The surrounding Sierra de
las Villuercas and Los Ibores
sierras, where herbs were once
picked for the monastery phar-
macy, have good woodland
walks. The road south also gives
access to the pasturelands of
La Serena, a vital breeding
ground for birds of the steppe
(see pp346–7), and the huge
reservoir of Cíjara, surrounded
Monasterio de Guadalupe, overlooking the town by a game reserve.
For hotels and restaurants in this region see p571 and p597


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9 Trujillo palaces and convents built
with New World wealth. It has
Cáceres. * 9,600. @ n Plaza
Mayor, 927 32 26 77. ( Thu. _ an elaborate corner window
Chíviri (Easter Sun), Feria del Queso with carved stone heads of
(weekend of 1 May). the Pizarro brothers and their
∑ turismotrujillo.com Inca wives. The beautiful 16th-
century Palacio de Juan Pizarro
When the Plaza Mayor of the de Orellana was built by
medieval hilltop town of Trujillo descend ants of Francisco de
is floodlit at night, it is one of the Orellana, the explorer of
most beautiful squares in Spain. Ecuador and the Amazon.
By day, there is much to visit, In late April or early May,
including the Iglesia de Santa gourmets flock here for the
María la Mayor, on one of the four-day cheese fair.
town’s winding streets, which Statue of Francisco Pizarro in Trujillo’s
contains various sarcophagi. main square P Islamic Fortress
At the top of the hill is an Paseo Ruiz de Mendoza 8. Open daily.
11th-century Islamic fortress Francisco Pizarro, who conquered & 8
with spectacular views over Peru (see p62), of whom there P Palacio de Juan Pizarro
the square, the town and the is a statue in the main square. de Orellana
surroundings. Trujillo was His brother, Hernando Pizarro, Plaza de Don Juan Tena (access
the birthplace of several founded the Palacio del Marqués via the convent). Tel 927 32 11 58.
conquistadors, most notably de la Conquista, one of several Open 10am–dusk daily.

The Virgin of Guadalupe,
her face blackened by smoke
from smouldering lamps, is
worshipped by pilgrims from
Gothic around the world. She is kept
cloister in the camarín, and dressed
up for feast days. On her lap
sits the infant Jesus.

Embroidery museum
Painting and
sculpture
museum


Church


















The chapterhouse The sacristy
has 97 illuminated contains Zurbarán’s
manuscripts by the Father Gonzalo de
monks of Guadalupe. Illescas at Work.




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0 Street-by-Street: Cáceres

After Alfonso IX of Leon conquered Cáceres in 1229,
its growing prosperity as a free trade town attracted
merchants, and later aristocracy, to settle here. They
rivalled each other with stately homes and palaces
fortified by watchtowers, most of which Isabel and
Fernando, the reigning monarchs (see pp60–61), ordered
to be demolished in 1476 to halt the continual jostling
for power. Today’s serene Renaissance town dates from . Casa de los Golfines de Abajo
the late 15th and 16th centuries, after which economic The ornamental façade of this
decline set in. Untouched by the wars of the 19th and 16th-century mansion displays the
20th centuries, Cáceres became Spain’s first listed shield of one of the town’s leading
families, the Golfines.
heritage city in 1949.



O
C
O
R C U E S TA D E L M A R Q U É S

E C A L L E D E L A A M A R G U R A
D R I N C Ó N D E L A M O N J A

S
A
Casa y Torre de Carvajal P Í
This typical Renaissance mansion has
a 13th-century round Arab tower
and a peaceful garden with a patio.
S
A
R
O B

E
C A L L E I N S T I T U T O C U E S T A DE ALDANA
L
L PL A Z A DE
A SANT A
C M ARÍA


. Iglesia de Santa María
Facing the Palacio Episcopal, this
Gothic-Renaissance church has P LAZ A
a beautiful cedarwood reredos M AY O R
and a 15th-century crucifix –
the Cristo Negro (Black Christ).
The Torre de Bujaco is a
12th-century tower that
visitors can climb for good
views of Plaza Mayor.
0 metres 50
Arco de la Estrella
0 yards 50 This low-arched gate way was
built by Manuel Churriguera in
1726. It leads through the city
Key walls from the Plaza Mayor into
the Old Town and is flanked by
Suggested route
a 15th-century watchtower.
For hotels and restaurants in this region see p571 and p597


412-413_EW_Spain.indd 412 26/09/17 11:03 am
Eyewitness Travel LAYERS PRINTED:
Starsight template “UK” LAYER
(Source v2.5)
Date 6th February2013
Size 125mm x 217mm

EX TREM ADUR A  413


Barrio de San VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
Antonio
This quaint old Jewish Practical Information
quarter, with narrow Cáceres. * 95,600. n Calle
streets of whitewashed Tiendas 1, 927 11 12 22. ( Wed.
houses restored _ San Jorge (23 Apr), San
to their original Fernando (30 May). Museo de
condition, takes Cáceres: Open Tue–Sun.
its name from the ∑ ayto-caceres.es/turismo
nearby hermitage
of St Anthony. Transport
£ Juan Pablo II, 6, 902 43 23 43.
@ Calle de Túnez 1, 927 23 25 50.










R I N C Ó N D E L A M O N J A
. Museo de Cáceres
Housed in the Casa de las Veletas,
this museum has contemporary art
and archaeology from the region.



The Convento de San Pablo
C A L L E I N S T I T U T O C A L L E A N C H A A D I R
sells delicious yemas (candied
egg yolks) made by the nuns.




E É M
C U E S T A DE ALDANA
D

T A
R
E
U
P
AD AR VE PADRE R O S A L Í O



Casa y Torre de las Cigüeñas
The Iglesia de San Mateo, The slender, battlemented
built between the 14th and tower of the House of the
17th centuries, is one of Storks was allowed to remain
Cáceres’ earliest churches. after 1476 because of the
owner’s loyalty to Isabel. It is
now owned by the army and
Casa del Sol (Casa de los Solis) not open to the public.
The façade of this elegant Renaissance
building, once home of the Solis family,
is emblazoned with a sun (sol) motif.
For keys to symbols see back flap


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q Arroyo de la Luz r Mérida
Cáceres. * 6,300. @ n Plaza de Badajoz. * 58,100. £ @ n Calle
la Constitución 21, 927 27 04 37, José Álvarez Sáenz de Buruaga, 924 33
Wed–Sun. ( Thu. _ Día de la Luz 07 22. ( Tue. _ Easter Week, Classic
(Easter Mon), Fiestas (15 Aug). Drama Festival (Jul–Aug), Feria (1–5
∑ arroyodelaluz.es Sep). ∑ turismomerida.org
Arroyo de la Luz is home to one Founded by Augustus in 25 BC,
of the artistic masterpieces of Augusta Emerita grew into the
Extremadura. Its Iglesia de la cultural and economic capital of
Asunción contains a spectac ular Rome’s westernmost province,
altar piece, completed in 1565, Lusitania, but lost its eminence
which incorporates 20 paintings under the Moors. Though a
by the mystical reli gious painter small city, Mérida, the capital of
Luis de Morales. Extremadura, has been named
a UNESCO World Heritage site
Environs thanks to the large number of
Nearby, Los Barruecos Natural The Roman bridge spanning the River Tagus fine Roman monuments.
Park is home to Europe’s largest at Alcántara The best approach is from the
white­stork colony (see pp346–7), west of town, via the mod ern
their nests often built on top of e Valencia de suspension bridge over the
gigantic granite stones. There Alcántara Río Guadiana, bringing you to
are some good picnic spots in the original entrance of the
the surrounding countryside. Cáceres. * 6,000. £ @ n Calle de Roman city and Arab fortress.
Hernán Cortés, 927 58 21 84. ( Mon. The city’s centrepiece is the
_ San Isidro (15 May), San Bartolomé
(24 Aug). ∑ valenciadealcantara.net Teatro Romano (see pp54–5).
One of the best­preserved
The Gothic quarter of this hill­ Roman theatres anywhere, it
top frontier town is given an is still used in summer for the
elegant air by its fountains and city’s drama festival and is part
orange trees. The Castillo de of a larger site with an
Piedrabuena, in nearby San amphitheatre (anfiteatro) and
Vicente de Alcántara, was built gardens. Nearby are the remains
by the Knights of the Order of of a Roman house, the Casa del
Alcántara. On the town’s out­ Anfiteatro, where there are
skirts are more than 40 dolmens, underground galleries and large
or megalithic burial sites. areas of well­preserved mosaics.
Opposite stands the stunning
Environs red­brick Museo Nacional de
Alburquerque, to the southeast, Arte Romano. The semicircular
is sited on a rocky outcrop with arches of its main hall are built
Alterpiece in the Iglesia de la Asunción, a panoramic view from the to the same height as the city’s
Arroyo de la Luz ramparts and keep of its castle. Los Milagros aqueduct. Over
Below is the Old Town and the three floors, the gallery exhibits
15th­century Iglesia de Santa ceramics, mosaics, coins and
w Alcántara María del Mercado. statuary. There is also an
Cáceres. * 1,700. @ n Avenida de
Mérida 21, 927 39 08 65. ( Tue. _
Classic Drama Festival (Aug), San Pedro
(18–19 Oct). ∑ turismoalcantara.es
Alcantara has two important
sights. One is the drystone
Roman bridge, above the
Tagus River, with its honorary
arch and a temple. The other
the restored Convento de San
Benito. This was built as the
headquarters of the Knights of
the Order of Alcántara during
the 16th century and was sack­
ed by Napoleon. Its surviving
treasures are in the Iglesia de
Santa María de Almocovar. Megalithic tomb on the outskirts of Valencia de Alcántara
For hotels and restaurants in this region see p571 and p597


414-415_EW_Spain.indd 414 26/09/17 11:55 am

EX TREM ADUR A  415


















Mérida’s well-preserved Roman theatre, still used as a venue for classical drama
excavated stretch of the famous columns, and the Arco de stands the Casa del Mitreo, with
Via de la Plata Roman road. Near Trajano. The Museo de Arte its Pompeiian-style fres coes and
the museum are several other Visigodo (Museum of fine mosaics.
monuments, namely two Visigothic Art) is in the The magnificent, ruined
villas with fine mosaics, Convento de Santa Los Milagros aqueduct, with
and a racecourse. Clara, off the main its granite and brick arches, is
A chapel in front square. From the off the N630 towards Cáceres.
of the 3rd-century huge Puente Romano
Iglesia de Santa there is a good view E Museo Nacional de
Eulalia is dedicated of the massive walls Arte Romano
to the child saint of Calle José Ramón Mélida. Tel 924 31
who was martyred the Alcazaba, one of 16 90. Open Tue–Sun. Closed some
on this site in Roman Sculpture of Emperor Spain’s oldest pub hols. & (free Sat pm & Sun am).
times. Towards the Augustus Moorish buildings 7 ∑ mecd.gob.es/mnromano
centre of the town are (AD 835), whose pre- E Museo de Arte Visigodo
the Templo de Diana cinct includes towers, a cistern Calle Sta Julia. Tel 924 31 01 16. Open
(1st century AD), with tall, fluted and Roman ruins. To the east Tue–Sun. Closed some public hols.

Mérida Town Centre
AVENIDA DE E XTR EMA DU RA CACERES,
1 Iglesia de Santa Eulalia Iglesia de MADRID
Estación
2 Museo Nacional de de RENFE Santa Eulalia
Arte Romano CARDERO
3 Casa del Anfiteatro MA R QU ES A DE P IN ARE S S TA . L UC Í A
4 Anfiteatro Obelisco de PONTEZU E LA S Casa del
5 Teatro Romano VESPASIANO AL MEN DR A L E J O Sta. Eulalia Anfiteatro C A B O VE R D E
6 Casa del Mitreo CALVARIO PUERTA DE Museo Nacional
de Arte Romano
LA VILLA
7 Alcazaba CONSTITUCIÓN J. RAMÓN MÉLIDA Anfiteatro
PLAZA DE LA
8 Puente Romano A D R I A N O Arco de EULALIA PAR E J O S
9 Museo de Arte Visigodo Trajano VA LV E R D E L I L LO HERNÁN COR TES AVDA. DE ANTONIO MONTERO
Teatro
0 Arco de Trajano Museo de Arte SANTA Templo SOMONTE Romano
de Diana
Visigodo
q Templo de Diana Santa María PLAZA DE PEDRO MARÍA PLANO GUA R D I A C IVI L
ESPAÑA
la Mayor ROMERO C A L P IZ A RRO
PASEO DE ROMA
Alcazaba LEGIÓ N X
VI Ñ EROS DE RÓ N D E L A B AR CA
Puente de
GRACIANO
Lusitania O VIE DO Plaza E N S A N CH E
Puente ATARAZANAS de Toros
to Coach Romano
Station
BADAJOZ, Casa del
SEVILLA
Mitreo
A N A S
R í o G u a d i a n a
0 metres 250
0 yards 250
For keys to symbols see back flap
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416  CENTR AL SP AIN

t Badajoz revealed a moated temple that
was rebuilt three times – many
Badajoz. * 152,500. ~ £ @
n Pasaje de San Juan, 924 22 49 81. of the walls and slate floors are
( Tue & Sun. _ Carnival (Feb/Mar). still intact. Each temple was
∑ turismobadajoz.es constructed on a grander scale
than the pre vious one and then
Badajoz was a major centre burned in the face of invasion
under the Moors, but centuries during the 6th century BC.
of conflict robbed it of its former Most of the artifacts
glories. Today, it is mostly known unearthed from the site are on
for its extravagant Carnival. display in the archaeo logical
The Alcazaba houses the museum at Badajoz.
Museo Arqueológico, which has
over 15,000 pieces from around Environs
the province, as far back as A Roman funereal monument
Palaeolithic times. The fortress stands next to the church in
overlooks colourful Plaza Alta, a Interior of Santa María Magdalena nearby Zalamea de la Serena.
former medieval market square. church, Olivenza The town comes alive during
Dating from the 13th–18th the August fiestas, when the
centuries, the cathedral has a The 16th-century Santa Casa de townsfolk act out the classic
stunning tiled cloister. The MEIAC Misericordia has blue and white 17th-century play, The Mayor of
museum of contempo rary tiled friezes. In one, God offers Zalamea, by Calderón de la Barca
Spanish and Latin American art is Adam and Eve 18th-century (see p38), which was supposedly
on Calle Museo (open Tue–Sun). coats to cover their nakedness. based on a local character. Shops
Off the main square, the in the town also sell torta de la
E Museo Arqueológico Casa Fuentes bakery sells Técula Serena, a strong, creamy cheese
Plaza José Álvarez Saez de Buruaga. Mécula cake. made of sheep’s milk.
Tel 924 00 19 08. Open Tue–Sun.
E Museo Etnográfico
González Santana
y Olivenza Plaza de Santa María. Tel 924 49 02 22.
Open Tue–Sun. & 7
Badajoz. * 12,000. @ n Pl de Santa ∑ elmuseodeolivenza.com
María del Castillo 15, 924 49 01 51. (
Sat. _ Muñecas de San Juan (23 Jun).
A Portuguese enclave until u Cancho Roano
1801, Olivenza has a lively vibe. Zalamea de la Serena, EX114 (Carre-
Within the walled town are the tera Zalamea-Quintana) km 3. Tel 629
medieval castle, housing the 23 52 79. Open daily (except Sun pm).
Museo Etnográfico González Closed some public hols.
Santana, a museum of rural
life, and three churches. Santa This sanctuary-palace, which
María del Castillo has a family is thought to have been built
tree of the Virgin Mary. Santa under the civilization of Tart- Remains of the Tartessan sanctuary at
María Magdalena is a fine essus (see p53), was discov ered Cancho Roano
example of the 16th-century in the 1960s. Excavations on this
Portuguese Manueline style. small site (begun in 1978) have
i Zafra
Badajoz. * 16,700. £ @ n Plaza
de España 8, 924 55 10 36. ( Sun &
last Sat of month. _ San Miguel
(Sep/Oct). ∑ visitazafra.com
At the heart of this graceful
town, nicknamed “little Seville”
because of its similarity to the
capital of Andalucía, are two
arcaded squares. The Plaza
Grande, the larger of the two,
near the Iglesia de la Candelaria,
was built in the 15th century.
The older square is Plaza Chica,
which used to be the market-
The colourful tiled cloister in the cathedral of Badajoz place. On Calle Sevilla is the
For hotels and restaurants in this region see p571 and p597


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EX TREM ADUR A  417


whitewash-and-stone church of
Nuestra Señora de la Granada, its
sumptuous interior reflecting
the town’s former importance
as a seat of the Inquisition (see
p278). At one end of the square
is a fountain designed by
Zurbarán, who lived here for
15 years. Also worth seeing is
the 16th-century Convento
de Santa Clara, on a street
leading out of the main square.
Environs
At Azuaga, 30 km (20 miles)
to the east, is the Iglesia de la
Consolación, containing Ren-
aissance and Mudéjar tiles.

a Tentudía
Badajoz. @ Calera de León. n Plaza
de España 12, Calera de León, 924 584
084. Monasterio: Open Tue–Sun. &
8 (for groups).
∑ turismoextremadura.com
Where the Sierra Morena runs
into Andalucía, fortified towns
and churches founded by the
medieval military orders stand
among the wooded hills of
Altarpiece by Zurbarán in the Iglesia de la Candelaria at Zafra Tentudía. Here, on a hilltop,
stands the tiny Monasterio de
15th-century Convento de ceramics; San Miguel, whose Tentudía. Founded in the 13th
Santa Clara. Nearby is the brick tower domi nates the century by the Order of Santiago,
Alcázar de los Duques de Feria, Plaza de España; and Santa the monastery contains a superb
now a para dor with a patio of María de la Encarnación. Mudéjar cloister, and reredos
Herreriano style. with Seville azulejos (tiles).
Environs Calera de León, just 6 km
o Jerez de los Fregenal de la Sierra, 25 km (4 miles) north of Tentudía, has
a Renaissance convent, also
(16 miles) to the south, is an
Caballeros attractive old town with a founded by the Order of
bullring inside a 13th-century Santiago, with a Gothic church
Badajoz. * 10,000. @ n Plaza de Templar castle, and the restored and a cloister on two floors.
San Agustín 1, 924 73 03 72. ( Wed.
_ Easter week, Feria del Jamón (May). 16th-century convent of San
∑ turismo.jerezdeloscaballeros.es Francisco. The Palace of the
Condes de Torrepilares (C/
The hillside profile of Jerez, Iglesia de Santa Ana) is a superb
broken by three Baroque church example of civil architecture.
towers, is one of Extremadura’s
most picturesque. This small
town is also historically p Llerena
important – Vasco Núñez de Badajoz. * 6,000. £ @ n Calle
Balboa, who discovered the Aurora 3, 924 87 05 51. ( Thu.
Pacific, was born here. In the _ Nuestra Señora de la Granada
castle, now laid out as gardens, (1–15 Aug). ∑ llerena.org
knights of the Order of Knights
Templar were beheaded in the Extremadura’s southeastern
Torre Sangrienta (Bloody Tower) gateway to Andalucía, the town
in 1312. The old quarters of the of Llerena is a mixture of
town grew up around three Mudéjar and Baroque build ings.
churches: San Bartolomé, its In the pretty square, lined with
façade studded with glazed palm trees, stands the arcaded, Bullring at Fregenal de la Sierra



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SOUTHERN


SPAIN





Introducing Southern Spain 420–429

Seville 430–452
Seville Street Finder 453–459
Shopping in Seville 460–461
Entertainment in Seville 462–463
Andalucía 464–505













































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420  SOUTHERN SP AIN

Southern Spain at a Glance

The autonomous region of Andalucía dominates
southern Spain, its landscape ranging from the deserts
of Almería in the east, to the wetlands of Doñana
National Park in the west; and from the snowcapped
peaks of the Sierra Nevada to the beaches of the Costa
del Sol. Three inland cities between them share the
greatest of Spain’s Moorish monuments: Granada,
Córdoba and Seville, the capital, which stands on the
banks of the Río Guadalquivir. Andalucía has many Córdoba’s Mezquita (see pp486–7)
other historic towns as well as attractive, whitewashed has a remarkable forest of arches in its
villages, important nature reserves and the sherry- interior and an exquisitely decorated
producing vineyards around Jerez de la Frontera. mihrab (prayer niche) facing Mecca.









Villanueva
del Arzobispo
Linares
Úbeda
Montoro Baeza
Córdoba
Jaén Huéscar
Vélez Rubio
Seville (see pp430–63) is dotted Alcaudete
with evidence of its Moorish Seville Écija Baza
heri tage. The cathedral’s bell
tower was built as a minaret in Alcala de Guadaira Estepa Guadix
1198 and exten ded to include a Huelva
belfry in the 16th century.
Utrera ANDALUCÍA Granada
(see pp464–505) Loja Mojácar
Tabernas
Antequera
Olvera
Ronda Almeriá
Jerez de la Málaga Motril Adra
Frontera
Cádiz
Medina
Sidonia Marbella


Algeciras Gibraltar


The Parque Nacional de Puente Nuevo
Doñana (see pp470–71), a large
wetland protected area, is home 0 kilometres 50
to a vast array of wildlife including 0 miles 25
lynxes, flamingoes, eagles, deer
and wild cattle.
Beautiful azulejos, Moorish ceramic tiles, at the Real Alcázar, Seville



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INTRODUCING SOUTHERN SP AIN  421















The town hall
(see p502), or
Above the city of Granada rises the famous Alhambra ayuntamiento, in
(see pp496–7). The austere exterior of this great Moorish the historic town of
fortress-palace, built under the Nasrid dynasty, gives no Baeza was built in
hint of the sumptuous halls and enchanting courtyards the early Spanish
and gardens contained within it. Renaissance style,
called Plateresque.
Great attention to
detail is displayed
in the carving of
this pillar at
the entrance.
Villanueva
del Arzobispo
Linares
Úbeda
Montoro Baeza
Córdoba
Jaén Huéscar
Vélez Rubio
Alcaudete
Seville Écija Baza
Alcala de Guadaira
Huelva Estepa Guadix
Utrera ANDALUCÍA Granada
(see pp464–505) Loja Mojácar
Tabernas
Antequera
Olvera
Ronda Almeriá
Jerez de la Málaga Motril Adra
Frontera
Cádiz The Puente Nuevo
(see p476), a bridge
Medina
Sidonia Marbella built in the 18th
century, spans the
Tagus gorge, which
divides the old white
Algeciras Gibraltar town of Ronda from
its newer districts.


The Cabo de Gata nature
reserve (see p505) is an area
of steep cliffs and secluded
coves, with a stretch of
seabed that is rich in
marine flora and fauna.




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422  SOUTHERN SP AIN


The Flavours of Southern Spain

Andalucía is vast, bordered on one side by the Mediterranean and
on the other by the Atlantic. Inland are undulating hills and lofty
mountains, endless olive groves and bright fields of sunflowers.
The cuisine is as varied as the terrain, with a huge array of seafood,
superb meat and game, and a harvest of sun-ripened fruit and
vegetables. The tapeo (tapas-bar-hopping) is a regional institution
and, around Granada, these morsels are often still served free with
drinks. Along the Costa del Sol, and in the cities, new culinary skills
and international influences have brought on a storm of trendy Olives and olive oil
gastrobars, but in other areas traditional recipes are still the norm.

neighbourhood. Tapas are including cod, hake, prawns,
often accompanied by a glass crayfish, clams, razor clams,
of sherry, or a beer (una caña). octopus, cuttlefish, sole and
Tapas were once free but that tuna. Almost every seaside
tradition has largely died out, resort will offer pescaíto frito
except for in Granada where (fried fish), originally a Malaga
the tradition originated. dish, made with the freshest
catch of the day. In Cádiz, they
Seafood are served appealingly in a
It’s not surprising, given its paper cone, and in nearby
extensive coastline, that Sanlúcar do not miss the
Southern Spain offers every sweet and juicy langostinos
imaginable variety of seafood, (king prawns).
Diners choosing from a selection at Morcilla with Morcilla with rice Salchichón ibérico bellota
a tapas bar Jamón ibérico onion
bellota Chorizo rosario picante
Tapas
The tapeo, or tapas crawl, is an
intrinsic part of Andalucían life. Lomo
Each bar is usually known for a embuchado
partic ular speciality: one might
be well-known for its croquetas
(croquettes made with a thick
bechamel, usually filled with
ham or cod), while another will
serve exceptional hams, and yet
another might make the best
albóndigas (meat balls) in the Selection of delicious Spanish embutidos (cured meats)
Regional Dishes and Specialities
Andalucía embodies many of the images
most closely associated with Spain – the heady
rhythms of flamenco, striking white villages and
bullfighting. And tapas – in Andalucía, you can
easily make a meal of these delect able treats, and
most bars have an excellent range. Don’t miss the
mouthwatering hams from Jabugo and Trevélez
which are famed throughout Spain, or the
platters of freshly fried fish liberally doused with
lemon juice. An ice-cold sherry (the word comes
Pomegranates from Jerez, where most sherry is produced) is
deliciously refreshing in the searing summer Gazpacho This famous
heat and is the most popular tipple at southern fiestas. While chilled soup is made with
pork remains the most appreciated local meat, duck, beef and plump, ripe tomatoes, garlic
lamb are also favourites, subtly flavoured with aromatic bay leaves. and peppers.







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INTRODUCING SOUTHERN SP AIN  423



topped with slices of tomato
and drizzled with olive oil. The
hot climate is perfect for fruit
and vegetables. Favourites
include oranges, their sweet-
scented trees lining the streets,
luscious peaches, papayas,
persimmons and mangoes, as
well as tomatoes, aspara gus,
aubergines (eggplants) and
artichokes. The chilled tomato
soup, gazpacho, is a classic,
but salmorejo, which is thicker
and topped with a sprinkling
of chopped boiled eggs and
ham, is even tastier.
Andalucían vegetable seller displaying fresh local produce
On the Menu
Meat and Game
The famous hams of Jabugo
Pork and beef are the most (in the southwest) and Trevélez Chocos con habas Cuttlefish
popular meats in Andalucía. (near Granada) are among the is cooked with beans, white
Glossy black bulls (some raised finest produced in Spain, and wine and plenty of bay leaves.
for bullfighting but most for are made with free-range, Pato a la Sevillana Succulent
meat) are a common sight, and black-footed pigs fed on a diet duck, cooked slowly with onion,
one of the most popular local of acorns. All kinds of cured leeks, carrots, bay leaf and a
dishes is rabo de toro (bull’s tail). meats are made here, often dash of sherry, this is a speciality
to traditional recipes which of Seville.
have remained unchanged for Rabo de Toro An andaluz
centuries. In the wild inland classic, made with chunks of
Sierras, you will find an abun- bull’s tail, slowly braised with
dance of game in season, along vegetables, bay leaf and a dash
with the traditional country of sherry until tender.
staples of lamb and rabbit. Salmorejo Cordobés A
creamy tomato dip thickened
Fruit and Vegetables with breadcrumbs.
The undulating Andalucían Torta de Camarones
fields and hillsides are covered Delicious fritters filled with
with olive groves, and the best tiny, whole shrimp.
oils are graded as carefully as Tortilla del Sacromonte A
fine wines. Olive oil is liberally speciality of Granada: omelette
used in andaluz cuisine, and with brains, kidney or other
Prawns and sardines on display at the typical southern break fast offal, peppers and peas.
the fish market is toasted country bread














Huevos a la Flamenca Eggs Pescaíto Frito A seaside Tocino de Cielo This simple
are baked in a terracotta dish favourite, this is a platter of but delicious dessert consists
with vegetables, ham and small fish tossed in batter of creamy egg custard with a
chorizo sausage. and fried in olive oil. caramel syrup topping.






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424  SOUTHERN SP AIN


Wines of Southern Spain

Andalucía is a land of fortified wines, and the best of
these is jerez (sherry). Andalucíans drink the light, dry
fino and manzanilla styles of sherry as wines (they only
have 15.5 per cent alcohol) – always chilled, and often
as an accompaniment to tapas (see pp578–9). The
longer-aged, richer, yet still dry styles of amontillado
and oloroso sherry go well with the cured jamón
serrano. Other wines include fino, which may or
may not be fortified, and Madeira-like Málaga. Working the soil in Jerez
Wine Regions
Tío Pepe is one of the The Jerez wine region covers the chalky downs
finos of Jerez, which are
noted for their bouquet between the towns of Jerez, Sanlúcar and El
of flor (yeast), pale colour Puerto de Santa María. South of the Montilla-
and appetizing finish. Moriles region are Málaga’s vineyards, which
have been reduced by urban development.

Espiel
Linares
A45
Córdoba A4 A44 Úbeda
Guadalquivir Montilla Jaén Montilla, softer in
Bollullos par Sevilla A4 style than sherry,
del Condado Moriles ANDALUCÍA can make an
A49 Lucena
Huelva A92 Genil excellent partner
Estepa Granada A92 for Andalucía’s
AP4 A92 regional cuisine.
Sanlúcar de
Barrameda A45 Vélez Málaga A7
Jerez de la Frontera Málaga Motril Almería
Cádiz A7
Marbella 0 kilometres 100
A7 0 miles 50
A381
A48
Algeciras
Key
Manzanilla is matured only in the
town of Sanlúcar de Barrameda, Condado de Huelva
which is situated where the Guad- Jerez-Xérès-Sherry
alquivir River meets the Atlantic
Ocean. Like fino, it is bone dry, Montilla-Moriles
but has a distinctive salty tang. Málaga
Key Facts about Wines of Southern Spain
Location and Climate Good Producers
The Jerez region has one of the Condado de Huelva: Manuel Sauci
sunniest climates in Europe – Salas (Riodiel), A.Villarán (Pedro
summer heat tempered by ocean Ximénez Villarán). Jerez: Barbadillo
breezes. The best type of soil is white, chalky (Solear), Blázquez (Carta Blanca),
albariza. In Montilla it is more clayey. Caballero (Puerto), Garvey (San
Patricio), González Byass (Alfonso, Tío Pepe),
Grape Varieties
The best dry sherry is produced Hidalgo (La Gitana, Napoleón), Lustau, Osborne
from the Palomino grape. Pedro (Quinta), Pedro Domecq (La Ina), Sandeman.
Ximénez is used for the sweeter Montilla-Moriles: Alvear (C.B., Festival), Gracia
styles and is the main grape in Montilla and Hermanos, Pérez Barquero, Tomás García.
Málaga. Moscatel is also grown in Málaga. Málaga: Scholtz Hermanos, López Hermanos.






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INTRODUCING SOUTHERN SP AIN  425



How Sherry is Made
Sherry is mixed from two principal
grape varieties: Palomino, which makes
a drier, more delicate sherry; and Pedro
Ximénez, which is made into a
fuller, sweeter type of sherry.
Grape-drying is only
required for Pedro
Ximénez grapes. They
are laid on esparto mats
to shrivel in the sun,
concentrating the sugar.

Crusher and
de-stemmer
Grape-pressing and
de stalking, in cylindrical
stainless-steel vats, is usually
Grape-picking takes place done at night to avoid the
during the first three weeks in searing Andalucían heat.
September. Palomino grapes
Espiel
Linares are taken to the presses
quickly to ensure freshness.
A45
Córdoba A4 A44 Úbeda
Guadalquivir Montilla Jaén
Bollullos par Sevilla A4
del Condado Moriles ANDALUCÍA
A49 Lucena
Huelva A92 Genil
Estepa Granada A92
AP4 A92
Sanlúcar de
Barrameda A45 Vélez Málaga A7 Fermentation
Jerez de la Frontera Málaga Motril Almería vat in steel
Cádiz A7 Flor, a yeast, may form on the
Marbella exposed surface of young wine
A381
A7 in the fermentation vat,
A48
Algeciras
preventing oxidization and
adding a delicate taste. If flor
Fortification is the addition develops, the wine is a fino.
of pure grape spirit, raising
the level of alcohol from
around 11 per cent by
volume to around 18 per
cent for olorosos, and
15.5 per cent for finos.
The solera system
The youngest
solera contains
new wine.
The solera system assures
that the qualities of a sherry
remain constant. The wine
from the youngest solera is
Sherry for bottling is mixed with the older in the
taken from the oldest barrels below and as a result
The finished product solera on the bottom row. takes on its character.





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426  SOUTHERN SP AIN


Moorish Architecture

The first significant period of Moorish architecture arrived
with the Cordoban Caliphate. The Mezquita was extended
lavishly during this period and possesses all the enduring
features of the Moorish style: arches, stucco work and
ornamental use of calligraphy. Later, the Almohads
imported a purer Islamic style, as can be seen in La Giralda
(see pp442–3). The Nasrids built the superbly crafted
Alhambra (see pp496–7) and the Mudéjares (see p59) used
their skill to create beautiful Moorish-style buildings such
as the Palacio Pedro I in Seville’s Real Alcázar (see pp446–7). Reflections in water, combined
with an overall play of light, were
central to Moorish architecture.
Moorish domes were
frequently unadorned Defensive walls
on the outside. Inside,
an intricate lattice of
stone ribs supported
the dome’s weight. Like
this one in the Mezquita
(see pp486–7), they were
inlaid with multicoloured
mosaics featuring
stylized flowers.
Moorish gardens were
often arranged around
gently rippling pools
and channels.


















Pre-Caliphal Caliphal era Almoravid and Nasrid era
era 710–929 929–1031 Almohad era c.1238–1492
1091–1248
1031–91 Taifa c.1350
period (see p58) Alhambra
palace
700 800 900 1000 1100 1200 1300 1400
785 Mezquita 1184 La Giralda in c.1350
in Córdoba Seville begun Palacio
begun Pedro I Azulejos (see p444), glazed
936 Medina Azahara tiles, often adorned walls in
near Córdoba begun Mudéjar era, geometric patterns, as here
after c.1215
in the Real Alcázar (pp446–7).




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INTRODUCING SOUTHERN SP AIN  427



Moorish Arches
and used it as the basis of great architectural
The Moorish arch was developed from the endeavours, such as the Mezquita. Subsequent
horseshoe arch that the Visigoths used in the arches show more sophisticated ornamentation
construction of churches. The Moors modified it and the slow demise of the basic horseshoe shape.










Caliphal arch, Medina Azahara Almohad arch, Real Mudéjar arch, Real Alcázar Nasrid arch, the Alhambra
(see p483) Alcázar (see pp446–7) (see pp446–7) (see pp496–7)
Arcaded galleries Moorish Palace
provided shade The palaces of the Moors were designed with
around courtyards.
gracious living, culture and learning in mind.
The imaginary palace here shows how space,
light, water and ornamentation were
combined to harmonious effect.
Clay tiles


















Moorish baths made use
Entrance halls were of steam and hot water. Like
complex to confuse Roman baths, they often
unwanted visitors. had underfloor heating.





Elaborate stucco work typifies the
Nasrid style of architecture. The Sala
de los Abencerrajes in the Alhambra
(see p497) was built using only the
Azulejos (see p444), glazed simplest materials, but it is nevertheless
tiles, often adorned walls in Water cooled the Moors’ elegant courtyards and widely regarded as one of the most
geometric patterns, as here served a contemplative purpose, such as in the outstanding monuments of the
in the Real Alcázar (pp446–7). Patio de los Leones in the Alhambra (see p497). period of the Moorish occupation.





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428  SOUTHERN SP AIN


Flamenco, the Soul of Andalucía

More than just a dance, flamenco is a rousing artistic expression
of the joys and sorrows of life. Although it has interpreters all
over Spain and even the world, it is a uniquely Andalucían art
form, traditionally performed by gypsies of the region. There are
many styles of cante (song) from different parts of Andalucía,
but no strict choreography – dancers improvise from basic
movements, following the rhythm of the guitar and their feelings.
Flamenco was neglected in the 1960s and 1970s, but had since
seen a revival of serious interest in traditional styles and the Sevillanas, a folk dance
favoured by Andalucíans
development of exciting new forms. and strongly influenced
by flamenco, is the official
dance of Seville’s April Fair.
At a tablao
(flamenco club)
there will be at least
four people on
stage, including
the hand-clapper.

















The origins of flamenco are hard to trace. Gypsies
may have been the main creators of the art, mixing
their own Indian-influenced culture with existing
Moorish and Andalucían folklore, and with Jewish
and Christian music. There were gypsies in Andalucía
by the early Middle Ages, but only in the 18th century
did flamenco begin to develop into its present form.

The Spanish Guitar
The guitar has a major role in flamenco, traditionally
accompanying the singer. The flamenco guitar devel oped
from the modern classical guitar, which evolved in Spain in
the 19th century. Flamenco guitars have a lighter, shallower
construction and a thickened plate below the soundhole,
used to tap rhythms. Today, flamenco guitarists often
perform solo. One of the greatest, Paco de Lucía, began
by accompanying singers and dancers, before making
his debut as a soloist in 1968. His inventive style, which
combines traditional playing with Latin, jazz and rock
elements, has influenced many musicians outside the
Classical realm of flamenco, such as the group Ketama, who
guitar play flamenco-blues. Legendary guitarist Paco de Lucía






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INTRODUCING SOUTHERN SP AIN  429


Singing is an integral part of
flamenco and the singer often Where to Enjoy
performs solo. Camarón de la Isla Flamento
(1950–92), a gypsy born near
Cádiz, was among the most Madrid has several good tablaos,
famous contemporary cantaores flamenco venues (see p325). In
(flamenco singers). He began Granada, Sacromonte’s caves
as a singer of expressive cante (p495) are an exciting location.
jondo (literally, “deep song”), In Seville, the Barrio de Santa
from which he developed Cruz (pp438–47) has good tablaos.
his own distinctive style. He
has inspired many singers.
The bailaora (female
The proud yet graceful dancer) is renowned
posture of the bailaora A harsh, vibrating for amazing footwork
is suggestive of a voice is typical of as well as intensive
restrained passion. the singer. dance moments. Eva
Yerbabuena and Sara Baras are
both famous for their personal
styles. Both lead their own
acclaimed flamenco companies.
Another flamenco star is
Juana Amaya.






Traditional polka-dot dress

The bailaor (male dancer) plays
a less important role than the
bailaora. However, many have
achieved fame, including
Antonio Canales. He has intro­
duced a new beat through his
original foot movements.
The Flamenco Tablao
These days it is rare to come across spontaneous
dancing at a tablao, but if dancers and singers are
inspired, an impressive show usually results. Artists
performing with duende (“magic spirit”) will hear
appreciative olés from the audience.

Flamenco Rhythm
The unmistakable rhythm of flamenco is created by
the guitar. Just as important, however, is the beat
created by hand­clapping and by the dancer’s feet in
heeled shoes. The bailaoras may also beat a rhythm
with castanets; Lucero Tena (born in 1938) became Castanets made
famous for her solos on castanets. Graceful hand of wood
movements are used to express the dancer’s
feelings of the moment – whether pain,
sorrow, or happiness. Like the move­
ments of the rest of the body,
they are not choreo graphed,
and the styles used vary from
person to person. Flamenco hand movements






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430  SE VILLE

Introducing Seville

The capital of Andalucía is a compact city with a rich cultural
heritage. Conveniently, many of its principal sights can be
found within or very near the city centre, which is set on the
east bank of the Río Guadalquivir. Most visitors head straight
for the cathedral and La Giralda, Real Alcázar and Museo de
Bellas Artes. Among other highly popular monuments are
the beautiful Renaissance palace of Casa de Pilatos and
Seville’s bullring, the Plaza de Toros de la Maestranza.
There are, however, many other churches, monuments
and museums to discover, along with a wealth of excellent Museo de Bellas Artes (see
restaurants and atmospheric bars. p436) is Spain’s second most
important fine arts museum
after the Prado in Madrid. CALLE LARAÑA


C AL L E AL FO N SO X II



C A L L E S A N PA BLO CA LLE SI E RP ES C UE S TA D EL R O SA R I O CALLE RE C A R EDO



CA L L E TO R NE O
EL ARENAL
Iglesia de la Magdalena (see (See pp432–37)
p436) is an impressive Baroque
church containing countless SANTA CRUZ
murals, altarpieces and paintings. (See pp438–447) C A L L E SA N J OS É

Plaza de Toros C ALL E AD R IA NO
de la Maestranza
(see p436), a bullfighting AV. D E LA C O N S T I T UCI ÓN AV. D E ME NÉ NDE Z P E LAY O
landmark since its
construction in 1761,
is a fine example of Guadalquivir PA S E O DE C R I S TÓ BAL C O LÓ N
late Spanish Baroque
architecture. Its museum
holds a collection of
matador costumes,
photographs and
paintings dedicated
to the tradition. C AL L E SAN FE R N A ND O






Torre del Oro (see p437) means
“Tower of Gold”, a name derived
from the golden reflection the 13th-
century structure casts on to the
water. A thick chain used to stretch
from the tower across to the other
side of the river, stopping the entry
of enemy ships. Today the Torre del
Oro houses a naval museum.




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INTRODUCING SE VILLE  431













0 metres 300
0 yards 300
Casa de Pilatos (see p444) is an exquisite combination of
Renaissance, Mudejar and Baroque architecture. The palace
was commissioned by the first Marquis of Tarifa in 1529,
inspired by the Renaissance architecture he had seen on a trip
through Europe.

C AL L E AL FO N SO X II
CALLE LARAÑA


C A L L E S A N PA BLO CA LLE SI E RP ES C UE S TA D EL R O SA R I O CALLE RE C A R EDO



CA L L E TO R NE O
EL ARENAL
(See pp432–37)
SANTA CRUZ Cathedral and La Giralda
(See pp438–447) (see pp442–3) stand at the heart
of Seville. The cathedral was built
AV. D E ME NÉ NDE Z P E LAY O in the lower part of the city’s
in the 1400s over a 12th-century
mosque, part of which still remains
C ALL E AD R IA NO
C A L L E SA N J OS É
emblematic bell tower, La Giralda.
AV. D E LA C O N S T I T UCI ÓN
Guadalquivir
Real Alcázar (see pp446–7) is an stunning palace
PA S E O DE C R I S TÓ BAL C O LÓ N
built under Abd Al Roman III, with intricate
plasterwork and Moorish tiles throughout.

C AL LE SAN FE R N A NDO



Hospital de la Caridad
(see p437) was constructed
in the 15th century as a
charity hospital and
artists of the time, including
Juan de Valdés Leal and
Murillo, were commissioned
to decorate the chapel with a
clear message to the faithful.




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SE VILLE  433

EL ARENAL

Bounded by the Río Guadalquivir and clinging to the city walls. The river was
guarded by the 13th-century Torre del Oro, converted into a canal in the early 20th
El Arenal used to be a district of munitions cen tury but restored to its former navi gable
stores and shipyards. Today this quarter is glory in time for Expo ’92. The east bank was
dominated by the dazzling white bullring, transformed into a tree-lined promenade
the Plaza de Toros de la Maestranza, where with excellent views of Triana and La Isla
the Sevillians have been staging corridas de la Cartuja across the water.
for more than two centuries. The many bars The Hospital de la Caridad testifies to the
and bodegas in the neighbouring streets city’s continuing love affair with the Baroque.
are especially busy during the summer Its church is filled with famous paintings by
bullfighting season. Murillo, and the story of the Seville School is
Once central to the city’s life, the influence told in the immaculately restored Museo de
of the Guadalquivir de clined as it silted up Bellas Artes further north. The city’s stunning
during the 17th century. By then El Arenal collection of art includes great works by
had become a notorious underworld haunt Zurbarán, Murillo and Valdés Leal.

Sights at a Glance
Historic Buildings Museums
3 Plaza de Toros de la Maestranza 1 Museo de Bellas Artes
4 Hospital de la Caridad Churches
5 Torre del Oro
2 Iglesia de la Magdalena AL FON S O


X I I
PASEO REY JUAN CARLOS I Estacion MARQUES DE PARADAS CALLE DE GRAVINA C A LLE DE BAILEN CALLE MONSALVES CALLE O’DONNELL
CALLE SAN ELOY
Plaza de
PLAZA DE
Armas
AVDA CRISTO DE LA EXPIRACION LA LEGION CALLE C ANALEJAS BAILEN MURILLO CALLE RIOJA
Puente del CALLE CALLE VELAZQUEZ TETUAN
Cachorro PASEO REY JU A N CARLOS I CALLE DE ARJONA CALLE DE TRASTAMARA JULIO CESAR CALLE SAN PABLO MÉNDEZ
CALLE DE MORATIN
C CARLOS CAÑAL
REYES CATOLICOS CALLE ZARAGOZA PARIAS PEDRO NUÑEZ Plaza
PLAZA
NUEVA
MARQUES DE PARADAS
SEGURA CALLE ALMANSA CALLE GALERA Nueva
CALLE RADIO SEVILL A
GAMAZO
CALLE
SANTAS PATRONAS
Puente de Isabel II PA SEO P A S E O C A L L E C I R C O CALLE CASTELAR GARCIA DE VINUESA AVDA DE LA CONSTITUCION
HARINAS
GENIL
JI M IOS
(Puente de Triana)
PASTOR Y LANDERO
CALLE DE ADRIANO
CALLE VARFLORA
ARFE
PLAZA DEL
CASTAÑOS
Archivo
A LCA L DE
de Indias
D E ANTONIA DIAZ CALLE PAVIA MAYO CABILDO
G CALLE VELARDE GENERAL
u C R I S T O B A L
a M A RQUES DOS DE TOMAS DE
d IBARRA
a TEMPRADO
l D E
q
u
See also Seville Street Finder i C O L O N SANTANDER
v
maps 1, 3, 5 i r CON TA D ERO HABANA CALLE Puerta
de Jerez
ALMTE LOBO
Puerta de
Jerez
Puente de
San Telmo
0 metres 500
0 yards 500
Stunning domed ceiling at the Museo de Bellas Artes, Seville For keys to symbols see back flap
432-433_EW_Spain.indd 433 26/09/17 11:55 am

434  SE VILLE

Street-by-Street: El Arenal

Once home to the port of Seville, El Arenal also
housed the ammunition works and the artillery
headquarters. Now its atmosphere is set by the
city’s bullring, the majestic Plaza de Toros de la
Maestranza. El Arenal is a popular nightlife hub
year-round, but during the bullfighting season (see
p436) the area’s bars and restaurants are especially
packed. The riverfront is dominated by one of 3 . Plaza de Toros de la Maestranza
Seville’s best-known monu ments, the Moorish Torre Seville’s 18th-century bullring, one of
del Oro, while the long, tree-lined promenade Spain’s oldest, has a Baroque façade in
white and ochre.
beside the Paseo de Cristóbal Colón is perfect
for a slow, romantic walk along the Guadalquivir.
C A L L E D E A D R I A N O
Carmen (see p451),
sculpted in bronze,
stands opposite
C A L L E A N T O N I A D Í A Z
the bullring.








D O S D E M AYO









P A S E O D E C R I S T Ó B A L C O L Ó N
Paseo Alcalde
Marqués de
Contadero
The Teatro de la Maestranza, a showpiece
theatre and opera house, was opened in
1991. Home of the Orquesta Sinfónica de
Sevilla, the theatre also features inter national
opera and dance companies.








0 metres 75 The Guadalquivir used to cause catastrophic
0 yards 75 inundations. Following floods in 1947, a barrage
was constructed. Today, tourists enjoy peaceful
boat trips, starting from the Torre del Oro.
For hotels and restaurants in this area see pp571–2 and pp597–8


434-435_EW_Spain.indd 434 26/09/17 11:55 am

EL ARENAL  435

El Buzo (“The Diver”)
is one of many
traditional tapas
bars and freidurías on
or just off Calle Arfe.
Nearby is Meson
Cinco Jotas, a bar
where jamón ibérico
(see p468) is served.
Locator Map
See Seville Street Finder map 3
El Postigo is
an arts and G A R C Í A V I N U E S A To the
crafts market.
Cathedral
El Torno, in the secluded
Plaza de Cabildo, sells
sweets made in a convent.

A R F E
C A L L E A N T O N I A D Í A Z T A V E N I D A D E L A C O N S T I T U C I Ó N







O
Á
D O S D E M AYO M S D I 4 . Hospital de la Caridad
E
B
The walls of this Baroque
A
hospital church are hung
R
with fine paintings by
R
A
Bartolomé Esteban Murillo
T
E
and Juan de Valdés Leal.
M
P
R
A
D
To Real Alcázar
O
Maestranza de Artillería
C A L L E S A N T A N D E R





5 . Torre del Oro
Key
Built in the 13th century to protect the port, this
Suggested route crenellated Moorish tower now houses a small
maritime museum.



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436  SE VILLE


en el Refec torio (1655), which 3 Plaza de Toros de
was painted for the monastery la Maestranza
at La Cartuja (see p452).
Paseo de Cristóbal Colón 12. Map 3
B2. Tel 954 21 03 15.  Puerta Jerez.
2 Iglesia de la v Archivo de Indias. @ 3, 21, 40, 41,
Magdalena C5. Open 9:30am–7pm daily (Apr–
Oct: to 9pm). Closed Good Friday,
Calle San Pablo 10. Map 3 B1. Tel 95 25 Dec, from 3pm bullfight days. &
422 96 03. v Plaza Nueva. @ 3, 21, 8 ∑ realmaestranza.com
40, 41, 43, C5. Open hours vary, see Seville’s famous bullring was
website for details. 5 8–10:30am &
8:15pm Mon–Sat; 9am, 10:30am, built between 1761 and
noon & 8:15pm Sun, plus seasonal 1881 and holds up to 14,000
variations. ∑ rpmagdalena.org spec ta tors. Guided tours of this
immense building start from
This immense Baroque church the main entrance on Paseo de
by Leonardo de Figueroa, Cristóbal Colón. On the west side
com pleted in 1709, is gradually is the Puerta del Príncipe (Prince’s
Madonna and Child in the Baroque Iglesia being restored to its former Gate), through which the
de la Magdalena glory. In its southwest corner triumphant matadors are carried
stands the Capilla de la Quinta aloft by admirers from the crowd.
1 Museo de Angustia, a Mudéjar chapel Just beyond the enfermería
Bellas Artes with three cupolas. This chapel (emergency hospital) is a
survived from an earlier church museum of portraits, posters
Plaza del Museo 9. Map 1 B5. Tel 95 where the great Seville School and costumes, including a
554 29 42. @ C5, 6, 13, 14, 27, 32, 43. painter Bartolomé Murillo was purple cape painted by Pablo
Open 9am–8pm Tue–Sat, 9am–3pm baptized in 1618. Picasso. The tour continues on
Sun & public hols. & (free for EU The font that to the chapel where matadors
citizens) ^ 7 ∑ museos was used for his pray for success, and then to
deandalucia.es
baptism is now in the stables where the horses
The Convento de la the baptistry of the of the picadores (lance­carrying
Merced Calzada houses present build ing. The horsemen) are kept.
one of the best art church’s west front is The bullfighting season starts
museums in Spain. topped by a belfry which on Easter Sunday and continues
Completed in 1612 is painted in vivid colours. intermittently until October.
by Juan de Oviedo, the Among the religious Most corridas take place on
building is designed works in the church are a Sunday evenings. Tickets can
around three patios. painting by Francisco de be bought from the taquilla
The Patio Mayor is Zurbarán, St Dominic (booking office) at the bullring.
the largest of these, in Soria, housed in A few doors from the Plaza de
remodelled by the the Capilla Sacra­ Toros is the Teatro de la Maes­
architect Leonardo San Jerónimo Penitente in mental (to the right tranza. Seville’s opera house,
de Figueroa in the Museo de Bellas Artes of the south door), designed by Luis Marín de Terán
1724. The convent and frescoes by and Aurelio de Pozo, opened in
church is notable for its Baroque Lucas Valdés over the sanctuary. 1991. Fragments of ironwork from
domed ceiling, painted by On the wall of the north transept the 19th­century ammunition
Domingo Martínez. there is a cautionary fresco of a works that first occupied the
The museum’s collection of medieval auto-da-fé (see p278). site adorn the river façade.
Spanish art and sculpture, from
the medieval to the modern,
focuses on the work of Seville
School artists. Among the star
attractions is La Servilleta, a
Virgin and Child (1665–8), which
is said to be painted on a napkin
(servilleta). One of Murillo’s most
popular works, it may be seen in
the restored convent church.
The boisterous La Inmaculada
(1672) by Juan de Valdés Leal
is in a gallery devoted to the
artist’s forceful religious
paintings. Several fine works
by Zurbarán include San Hugo Arcaded arena of the Plaza de Toros de la Maestranza, begun in 1761
For hotels and restaurants in this area see pp571–2 and pp597–8


436-437_EW_Spain.indd 436 26/09/17 11:55 am

EL ARENAL  437


Seville’s Fiestas
April Fair (two weeks after
Easter). Life in the city moves
over the river to the fair-
ground for a week. Here,
members of clubs, trade
unions and neigh bourhood
groups meet in casetas
(enter tainment booths) to
drink and dance all night
to the infectious rhythm of
sevillanas. (Access to booths
may be limited to private
parties.) Every day, from
around 1pm, elegant,
traditionally dressed riders
Finis Gloriae Mundi by Juan de Valdés Leal in the Hospital de la Caridad on horseback and mantilla-
crowned women in open
4 Hospital de la Gloriae Mundi (The End of the carriages show off their finest
Caridad World’s Glory) by Juan de Valdés flamenco attire in parades.
Leal, and opposite hangs his During the after noons,
Calle Temprado 3. Map 3 B2. Tel 95 morbid In Ictu Oculi (In the Blink bullfights are often staged in
422 32 32.  v Puerta Jerez. @ 3, of an Eye). Many of the other the Maestranza bullring.
21, 40, 41, C4, C5. Open 9am–1:30pm, works that can be seen are by Holy Week (Mar/Apr). Over
3:30–7:30pm daily. & ^ 100 gilded pasos (floats
Murillo, including St John of God
Carrying a Sick Man and portraits bearing religious images) are
This charity hospital was founded of the Child Jesus and St John borne through the streets
between Palm Sunday and
in 1674 and it is still used today the Baptist as a Boy. Easter Day. Singers in the
as a sanctuary for elderly and crowds often spontaneously
infirm people. In the gardens burst into saetas, fragments
stands a statue of its benefactor, 5 Torre del Oro of song in praise of Christ or
Miguel de Mañara, whose Paseo de Cristóbal Colón. Map 3 B2. the Virgin. Emotions are high
dissolute life before he joined a Tel 95 422 24 19.  v Puerta Jerez. in the early hours of Good
brotherhood is said to have @ 3, 6, 21, 40, 41, C3, C4. Open Friday as the images of the
inspired the story of Don Juan. 9:30am–6:45pm Tue–Fri, 10:30am– Virgen de la Macarena and
The façade of the hospital church, 6:45pm Sat & Sun. Closed Aug & Mon. the Virgen de la Esperanza
with its whitewashed walls, & (free Tue & for EU citizens). ^ of Triana emerge from
reddish stonework and framed their churches.
azulejos, provides a glorious In Moorish Seville the Tower of Corpus Christi (May/Jun).
example of Sevillian Baroque. Gold formed part of the walled The Seises, boys dressed in
Inside are two square patios defences, linking up with the Baroque costume, dance
decorated with plants, 18th- Real Alcázar (see pp446–7). It was before the main altar of the
cathedral (see p443).
century Dutch tiles, and foun- built as a defensive lookout in
tains with Italian statues of 1220, with a companion tower
Charity and Mercy. At their on the opposite bank. A
north ern end a pas sage to the metal chain stretched
right leads to another patio, between them to prevent
containing a 13th- century hostile ships from sailing
arch which sur vives from upriver. The gold in
the city’s shipyards. its name may be
Inside the church the gilded azulejos
there are a number of that once clad its
original canvases by walls, or treasures
some of the lead ing from the Americas
painters of the 17th unloaded here, or
century, despite the the gold reflection
fact that some of its it casts on the
greatest artworks water. The tower
were looted by has had many uses,
Marshal Soult during The Torre del Oro, built such as a chapel
the Napoleonic by the Almohads and a prison. Now,
occupation of 1808– as the Museo
14 (see p66). Directly above the Marítimo, it exhibits maritime Float in Holy Week procession
entrance is the ghoulish Finis maps and antiques.




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SE VILLE  439

SANTA CRUZ

Seville’s old Jewish quarter, the Barrio de here in the 17th century, while his contemp­
Santa Cruz, is a warren of alleyways and orary, Juan de Valdés Leal, decorated the
patios that has long been the most pictur­ Hospital de los Venerables with superb
esque corner of the city. Many of the best­ Baroque frescoes. Further north is one of
known sights are located here: the cavernous Seville’s favourite shopping streets, the
Gothic cathedral with its landmark tower, Calle de las Sierpes. The market squares
La Giralda; the splendid Real Alcázar, with around it, such as the charming Plaza del
the royal palaces and lush gardens of Pedro I Salvador, pro vided backdrops for some of
and Carlos V; and the Archivo de Indias, the stories of Cervantes. Nearby, the ornate
hold ing documents that tell of Spain’s façades and interiors of the Ayuntamiento
exploration and conquest of the Americas. (town hall) and the Casa de Pilatos, a gem
Spreading northeast from these great of Andalucían architecture, testify to the
monuments is an enchanting maze of great wealth that flowed into the city from
whitewashed streets. The Golden Age the New World during the 16th century,
artist Bartolomé Esteban Murillo lived much of it spent on art.

Sights at a Glance
Historic Buildings Churches
2 Ayuntamiento 1 Seville Cathedral and La Giralda
4 Casa de Pilatos pp442–3
5 Hospital de los Venerables Streets and Plazas
6 Archivo de Indias 3 Calle de las Sierpes
7 Real Alcázar pp446–7

JUAN DE JAUREGUI
L A R A Ñ A MESA DIEGO DE
I M A G E N
PL SAN ARAPILES MERLO
PEDRO A L H O N D I G A C A L L E CALLE AZAFRAN
CUNA
JOSE LUIS LUQUE
GOYENETA
PLAZA
CRISTO DE
GALDOS PEREZ CALLE BOTEROS LANZA CALLE DE LOS NAVARROS CALLE DE RECAREDO
LAGAR BURGOS FRANCIS CO MEJIAS S ANTIAGO CONDE NEGRO
CUNA
CALLE SIERPES
LINEROS
SAGASTA PL DEL HUELVA ODREROS ALFA LFA CABALLERIZAS CALERIA
CALLE IMPERIAL
SALVADOR
VILLEGAS CALL E AGUILAS
CORRAL DEL REY
MANUEL
CORTINA CALLE SAN ISIDORO VIRGENES L I R IO S A N E S T E B A N
CALLE DE FRANCOS M R MARCOS MUÑOZ Y PABON CONDE DE IBARRA CALLE VIDRIO
CAL LE V E L A ZQ UEZ TETUA N
PL DE SAN
PL DE LAS
FRANCISCO CALLE ALVAREZ QUINTERO FEDERICO CALLE DE MERCEDARIAS PL ZURRADORES
ARGOTE DE OLINA CALLE ABAD ES CALLE AIRE RUBIO SAN JOSE LEVIES CESPEDES
GUZMAN
EL BUENO
COLON
HERNANDO
ALEMANES ANGELES F A BIOLA ARCHEROS
PL VIRGEN MATEOS GAGO SANTA MARÍA LA B LANCA CAN O Y CUETO
DE LOS REYES XIMENEZ DE ENCISO CRUCES
PLAZA C A L L E D E M E N E N D E Z P E L A Y O
PLAZA DEL REFINADORES
AVDA DE LA CONSTITUCION
TRIUNFO
STA TERESA
PL
See also Seville Street Finder DOÑA ALFARO
PLAZA
ELVIRA
maps 1–6 Archivo JUDERIA AGUA JARDINES
de Indias DE MURILLO
PLAZA
CONTRATACION
JARDINES DEL
ALCÁZAR
PUERTA Puerta
DE
JEREZ de Jerez
0 metres 400 CALLE SAN FERNANDO PL DON
JUAN DE
0 yards 400 AUSTRIA
Seville’s landmark bell tower, La Giralda, illuminated at dusk For keys to symbols see back flap
438-439_EW_Spain.indd 439 26/09/17 11:55 am

440  SE VILLE

Street-by-Street: Santa Cruz

The maze of narrow streets to the east of Seville
Cathedral and the Real Alcázar represents Seville at its
most romantic and compact. As well as the expected
souvenir shops, tapas bars and strolling guitarists,
there are plenty of picturesque alleys, hidden plazas
and flower-decked patios to reward the casual
wanderer. Once a Jewish ghetto, its re stored
buildings, with characteristic window grilles, are Plaza Virgen de los Reyes is often
now a harmonious mix of upmarket residences and lined by horse-drawn carriages. In
tourist accommodation. Good bars and restaurants the centre of the square is an early
make the area well worth an evening visit. 20th-century fountain by José Lafita.



Palacio Arzobispal,
the 18th-century M A T E O S G A G O
Archbishop’s Palace,
is still used by R O D R I G O
Seville’s clergy.





A V
E
P LAZ A
N
I
DEL
R O M E R O M U R U B E
D
TRIUNFO
A
D
E

L
A

C
O
1. Cathedral and N S T I T U C I Ó N
La Giralda
This huge Gothic
cathe dral and its Moorish
S A N T O T O M Á S M A N A R A
bell tower are Seville’s Convento de la
most popular sights. Encarnación
L
E
U
G
I
M
Plaza del Triunfo
has a Baroque column
celebrating the city’s
survival of the great
earthquake of 1755.
In the centre is a
6 Archivo de Indias modern statue of
Built in the 16th century as a merchants’ exchange, the Virgin Mary
the Archive of the Indies now houses documents (Immaculate
relating to the Spanish colonization of the Americas. Conception).
For hotels and restaurants in this area see pp571–2 and pp597–8
440-441_EW_Spain.indd 440 26/09/17 11:55 am

SANT A CRUZ  441

Calle Mateos Gago is shaded by
orange trees and filled with souvenir
shops, cafés and tapas bars. Bar
Giralda at No. 2, whose vaults are the
remains of a Moorish bathhouse, is
popular for its wide variety of tapas.



Locator Map
See Seville Street Finder maps 3, 4

Plaza Santa Cruz is
adorned by an
ornate iron cross
M E S Ó N D E L MORO
from 1692.
M A T E O S G A G O R O D R I G O X I M É N E Z E N C I S C O S A N T A T E R E S A




R E I N O S O L O P E D E R U E D A P L A Z A S T A C R U Z


J A M E R D A N A
G L O R I A
R O M E R O M U R U B E P L D O N A E L V I R A PIMIENTA C A L L E J Ó N D E A G U A 5. Hospital de


los Venerables
The 17th-century
J U S T I N O D E N E V E
home for elderly
priests has a
splendidly restored
S U S O N A
Baroque church.
V I D A
Callejón del Agua is a
whitewashed alleyway
offering glimpses into
enchanting plant-filled
patios. It is called “Water
Street” because it was
once a water conduit
to the Real Alcázar.




0 metres 50
0 yards 50
7. Real Alcázar
Seville’s Royal Palaces are a
rewarding combination of Key
exquisite Mudéjar (see pp446–7) Suggested route
craftsmanship, regal grandeur
and landscaped gardens.




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442  SE VILLE

1 Seville Cathedral and La Giralda

Seville’s cathedral occupies the site of
a great mosque built by the Almohads
(see p58) in the late 12th century.
Based on the Koutoubia Mosque
of Marrakesh, La Giralda, along
with its bell tower and the Patio
de los Naranjos, are a legacy of
the original Moorish structure
here. Work on the Christian
cathedral, the largest in Europe, began
in 1401 and took just over a century to
complete. As well as enjoying its Gothic
immensity and the works of art in its
chapels and sacristy, visitors ascend the
ramped La Giralda for stunning city views.
. La Giralda
The bell tower is crowned
by a bronze weathervane
(giraldillo) portraying Faith,
from which it takes its
name. A replica has
replaced the original vane.

Group entrance












. Patio de los Naranjos
In Moorish times worshippers
would wash their hands and feet
in the fountain under the orange
trees before praying.



KEY
1 Iglesia del Sagrario, a large 5 The Tomb of Columbus dates
17th-century chapel, is now used from the 1890s. His coffin is carried
as a parish church. by bearers representing the king-
doms of Castile, León, Aragón and
2 Roman pillars brought from Navarra (see p58).
Itálica (see p482) surround the
cathedral steps. 6 Puerta de la Asunción is Gothic
in style, though the portal was not
3 Puerta del Perdón (exit) completed until 1833. A stone relief
4 The Sacristía Mayor houses of the Assumption of the Virgin
many works of art, including decorates the tympanum.
paintings by Murillo. 7 Puerta del Bautismo

For hotels and restaurants in this area see pp571–2 and pp597–8


442-443_EW_Spain.indd 442 26/09/17 11:55 am

SANT A CRUZ  443


VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
Retablo Mayor
Santa María de la Sede, Practical Information
the cathedral’s patron Avenida de la Constitución.
saint, sits at the high Map 3 C2. Tel 954 56 57 43.
altar below a water- Cathedral & La Giralda: Open
fall of gold. The 44 11am–3:30pm Mon, 11am–5pm
gilded relief panels Tue–Sat, 2:30–6:30pm Sun. &
of the reredos were 9 4:30–6pm Mon by appt.
carved by Spanish Cathedral: 5 summer: 8–9am;
and Flemish sculp- winter: 8–10:30am. Capilla Mayor:
tors between 1482 5 8am–2pm, 4–7pm.
and 1564. ∑ catedraldesevilla.es
Transport
 Puerta Jerez. v Archivo de
Indias. @ C3, C4, C5, 5, 41.



Main
entrance



















. Capilla Mayor
Monumental iron grilles forged
in 1518–32 enclose the main
chapel, which is dom inated by
the overwhelming Retablo Mayor.



The Rise of
La Giralda
The tower was built
as a minaret in 1198.
In the 14th century
the bronze spheres
at its top were
replaced by Chris-
tian symbols. A new
belfry was planned
in 1557, but built
to a more ornate
design by Hernán
Ruiz in 1568. 1198 1400 1557 (plan) 1568





442-443_EW_Spain.indd 443 26/09/17 11:55 am

444  SE VILLE

4 Casa de Pilatos
Plaza de Pilatos 1. Map 4 D1. Tel 95
422 52 98. @ C3, C4, C5, 21, 24, 27.
Open 9am–6pm daily (to 7pm Jul
& Aug). & 8 first floor. ^
∑ fundacionmedinaceli.org
Enraptured by by the archi-
tectural and decorative wonders
of High Renaissance Italy and
the Holy Land, the first Marquis
of Tarifa built the Casa de
Pilatos. So called because it was
thought to resemble Pontius
Genoese fountain in the Mudéjar Patio Principal of the Casa de Pilatos Pilate’s home in Jerusalem,
today it is the residence of the
2 Ayuntamiento clothes and souvenir shops. Dukes of Medinaceli and is one
The parallel streets of Cuna and of the finest palaces in Seville.
Plaza Nueva 1. Map 3 C1. Tel 955 47
12 32. v Plaza Nueva. Open tours Tetuán also offer some enjoyable Visitors enter through a marble
5pm & 7:30pm Mon–Thu. window-shopping. Halfway up portal, commissioned by the
Closed Aug. ^ 8 the road walking north, Calle Marquis in 1529 from Genoese
Jovellanos to the left leads to the craftsmen. Across the arcaded
Seville’s City Hall stands 17th-century Capillita de San Apeadero (carriage yard) is the
between the Plaza de San José. Further on at the junction Patio Principal. This courtyard is
Francisco, where autos-da-fé with Calle Pedro Caravaca is the essentially Mudéjar (see p59) in
(public trials of heretics) were Real Círculo de Labradores, a style and decorated with azulejos
held, and the Plaza Nueva. men’s club founded in 1856. and intricate plasterwork. In
Building was completed Opposite – with its entrance its corners are three Roman
between 1527 and 1534. The in Calle Cuna – is a 15th-century statues, depicting Minerva, a
side bordering the Plaza de San private mansion, the Casa de dancing muse and Ceres, and a
Francisco is a fine example of la Condesa Lebrija. Treasures Greek statue of Athena, dating
ornate Plateresque style (see on display include a Roman from the 5th century BC.
p29) favoured by the architect mosaic from the ruins of nearby In its centre is a fountain that
Diego de Riaño. The west front Itálica (see p482) and a collection was imported from Genoa. To
is Neo-Classical, built in 1891. of azulejos. the right, through the Salón del
Sculpted ceilings survive in the Right at the end of the street Pretorio with its coffered ceiling
vestibule and the lower Casa is La Campana, Seville’s best- and marquetry, is the Corredor
Consistorial (Council Meeting known pastelería. de Zaquizamí. The antiquities
Room), containing Velázquez’s
Imposition of the Chasuble on Azulejos
St Ildefonso. The upper Casa
Consistorial has a dazzling Colourful azulejos, glazed ceramic tiles, are
coffered ceiling and paintings a striking feature of Seville. The craft was
by Zurbarán and Valdés Leal. introduced to Spain by the Moors, who created
fantastic mosaics in sophisticated geometric patterns
3 Calle de las for palace walls – the word azulejo derives from the Arabic for
“little stone”. New techniques were introduced in the 16th century
Sierpes and later mass production extended their use to decorative signs,
shop façades and advertising hoardings.
Map 3 C1. @ C5, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14,
27, 32, 40, 41, 43. Casa de la Condesa
Lebrija. Tel 95 422 78 02. v Plaza
Nueva. Open 10:30am–7:30pm Mon–
Fri, 10am–2pm, 4–6pm Sat, 10am–
2pm Sun; Jul & Aug: to 3pm Mon–Fri,
to 2pm Sat. Closed Sun in Jul & Aug.
8 ∑ palaciodelebrija.com
Seville’s main shopping
promenade, the “Street of the
Snakes”, runs north from Plaza de
San Francisco. Long-established
stores selling hats, fans and
traditional mantillas (lace Azulejo billboard for Studebaker Motor Cars (1924), Calle Tetuán
headdresses) stand along side
For hotels and restaurants in this area see pp571–2 and pp597–8


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SANT A CRUZ  445


include sculptures of St Peter
and St Ferdinand by Pedro
Roldán, flanking the east
door; and The Apotheosis of
St Ferdinand by Lucas Valdés,
top centre in the reredos of the
main altar. Its frieze (inscribed
in Greek) advises to “Fear God
and Honour the Priest”.
In the sacristy, the ceiling
has an effective trompe l’oeil
depicting The Triumph of the
Cross by Juan de Valdés Leal.
6 Archivo de Indias
Avda de la Constitución. Map 3 C2.
Tel 95 450 05 28.  @ C5, Puerta
Jerez. v Archivo de Indias. Open
9:30am–5pm Mon–Sat (to 2pm mid-
Jun–mid-Sep), 10am–2pm Sun and
public hols. ^
The Archive of the Indies
illustrates Seville’s pre-eminent
role in the colonization and
exploitation of the New World.
Built between 1584 and 1598
to designs by Juan de Herrera,
co-architect of El Escorial
(see pp334–5), it was originally
a lonja (exchange), where
merchants traded. In 1785,
Carlos III had all Spanish
documents relating to the
“Indies” collected under one
Fresco by Juan de Valdés Leal in the Hospital de los Venerables roof. Among the archive’s 86
million handwritten pages
on display in adjacent rooms 5 Hospital de los and 8,000 maps and drawings
include a bas-relief of Leda and Venerables are letters from Columbus,
the Swan and two Roman reliefs Cortés and Cervantes, and the
commemorating the Battle of Plaza de los Venerables 8. Map 3 C2. correspondence of Felipe II.
Actium of 31 BC. Tel 95 456 26 96. v Archivo de Upstairs, the library rooms
Coming back to the Patio Indias. Open 10am–6pm daily. contain displays of drawings,
Closed 1 Jan, Good Friday, 25 Dec.
Principal, you turn right into & (free 2–6pm Tue). 7 8 maps and facsimile documents.
the Salón de Descanso de los
Jueces. Beyond is a rib-vaulted Set in the heart of the Barrio de
Gothic chapel, with Mudéjar Santa Cruz, this home for elderly
plasterwork walls and ceiling. priests was begun in 1675 and
On the altar is a copy of a completed around 20 years later
4th-century sculpture in the by Leonardo de Figueroa. It has
Vatican, The Good Shepherd. now been restored as a cultural
Left through the Gabinete de centre by FOCUS (Fundación
Pilatos, with its small central Fondo de Cultura de Sevilla).
fountain, is the Jardín Grande. Stairs from the central, rose-
Returning once more to the coloured, sunken patio lead to
main patio, behind the statue the upper floors, which, along
of Ceres, a tiled staircase leads with the infirmary and cellar,
to the upper floor. It is roofed are used as exhibition galleries.
with a won derful media naranja The Hospital church, a show-
(half-orange) cupola built in case of Baroque splendours, has
1537. There are Mudéjar ceilings frescoes by both Juan de Valdés
in some rooms, full of family Leal and his son Lucas Valdés. Façade of the Archivo de Indias by
portraits and antiques. Other highlights of the church Juan de Herrera




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446  SE VILLE

7 Real Alcázar

In 1364 Pedro I ordered the construction of a royal residence
within the palaces which had been built by the city’s Almohad
(see p58) rulers. Craftsmen from Granada and Toledo created a
jewel box of Mudéjar patios and halls, the Palacio Pedro I, now
at the heart of Seville’s Real Alcázar. Later monarchs added their
own distinguishing marks: Isabel I (see p60) dispatched navi­
gators to the New World from her Casa de la Contratación, while
Carlos I (the Holy Roman Emperor Charles V – see p62) had
grandiose apartments built. More recently, in 2014, the Alcázar
was used as a location for the hit TV show Game of Thrones.











Gardens of the Alcázar
Laid out with terraces, fountains and
pavilions, these gardens provide a
delightful refuge from the heat and
bustle of Seville.

. Charles V
Rooms
Vast tapestries
and lively
16th-century
azulejos decorate
the vaulted halls
of the apartments
and chapel
of Charles V.






Plan of the Real Alcázar
The complex has
been the home of
Span ish kings for
almost seven
centuries. The
palace’s upper
floor is used by
the royal family
today.


Key
Area illustrated above . Patio de las Doncellas
The Patio of the Maidens
Gardens boasts plasterwork by the
top craftsmen of Granada.
For hotels and restaurants in this area see pp571–2 and pp597–8


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SANT A CRUZ  447


. Salón de VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
Embajadores
Built in 1427, the Practical Information
dazzling dome of the Patio de Banderas. Map 3 C2.
Ambassadors’ Hall is of Tel 95 450 23 24. Open 9:30am–
carved and gilded, 7pm daily (to 5pm Oct–Mar);
interlaced wood. night visits with theatre, check
website (book in advance). &
∑ alcazarsevilla.org
Transport
 Puerta Jerez. @ C5.
v Archivo de Indias.
















Horseshoe Arches
Azulejos and complex plasterwork
decorate the Ambassadors’ Hall,
which has three sym metrically
arranged, ornate archways, each
with three horseshoe arches.





Puerta del León
(entrance)


KEY
1 Patio del Crucero lies above
the old baths.
2 Jardín de Troya
3 Patio de las Muñecas (Patio
of the Dolls) and its surrounding
bedrooms formed the domestic
heart of the palace. It derives its
name from two tiny faces on one
of its arches.
4 Casa de la Contratación
5 The façade of the Palacio Pedro I
is a prime example of Mudéjar style.
Patio del Yeso 6 The Patio de la Montería was
The Patio of Plaster, a garden featuring flowerbeds and a where the court met before
water channel, retains features of the earlier, 12th-century hunting expeditions.
Almohad Alcázar.




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