(DK Eyewitness) Travel Guide - Spain

ENTER T AINMENT IN BARCEL ONA  199


and top international DJs. centre with a firm eye on the neighbourhood to find
Also in Poble Espanyol is what’s new and happening. big clubs, but it is the ideal
Upload, another mega-club, This could mean local DJs, place to enjoy a few drinks
which combines club nights Japanese musicians such and watch the world go by.
with burlesque dinner shows as the cultish Cinema Dub Bobby Gin is one of Gràcia’s
and other events. Monks, alternative cinema, and trendiest addresses and
multimedia art installations. prides itself on preparing
If it’s of the here and now, the best gin and tonics in
Poble Sec chances are Mau Mau’s on town: speciality concoctions
The most alternative nightlife it. At the other end of the include the Ginfonk, with rose
has come to roost in the “dry spectrum, head to tiny Tinta infusion, lime and strawberries.
village”, though in name only. Roja for low lights, romance The friendly Eldorado, on the
The bars are wet and the and a tiny velvet-swathed lively Plaça del Sol, manages
music is happening. Apolo is stage that hosts concerts to combine café, bar, club
another old-fashioned music and cabaret shows. Milonga and games room (with table
hall, though it attracts a more nights are held on the first football, pool and pinball).
independent breed of DJ and Wednesday of the month. Spanish music and 1980s
performer. Expect anything pop dominate in what is just
from soulful gypsy folk singers one of many relaxed “music
from Marseille, to the Gràcia and Tibidabo bars”. The Mirablau offers
legendary purveyor of deep Gràcia has a laid-back, unparalleled views over the
funk, Keb Darge. Further into alternative vibe, and its city from its perch near the
the village, Mau Mau is an narrow streets are packed Tramvia Blau stop, halfway
alternative club and cultural with bars and cafés. This isn’t up Tibidabo.
DIRECTORY
Barri Gòtic Zentraus Dow Jones Mau Mau
Rambla de Raval 41, Carrer Bruc 97. Map 3 B4. Carrer d’en Fontrodona
Café Royal El Raval. Map 2 F3. Tel 93 420 35 48. 35, Poble Sec.
Carrer Nou de Zurbano 3. Tel 93 443 80 78.
Map 5 A3. ∑ zentraus.cat Sutton Club Map 2 D3.
Tel 93 318 89 56. Carrer Tuset 13. Tel 93 441 80 15.
∑ maumaunder
Jamboree Port Vell and Tel 667 43 27 59. ground.com
∑ thesuttonclub.com
Plaça Reial 17, Port Olímpic
Barri Gòtic. Map 5 A3. Catwalk Montjuïc Tinta Roja
Tel 93 319 17 89. Carrer Ramon Trias Fargas Carrer Creu dels Molers
∑ masimas.com The One 17, Poble Sec.
2–4, Port Olímpic. Map 6
Macarena E4. Tel 93 224 07 40. Poble Espanyol, Avinguda Map 2 D3.
Carrer Nou de Sant ∑ clubcatwalk.net Francesc Ferrer i Guàrdia Tel 93 443 32 43.
Francesc 5. Map 5 A3. C.D.L.C. 13. Map 1 A2. ∑ tintaroja.cat
Tel 93 301 30 64. Passeig Marítim 32, Tel 902 90 92 89.
∑ macarenaclub.com Gràcia and
Port Olímpic. Map 6 E4. La Terrrazza Tibidabo
Marula Café Tel 93 224 04 70. Poble Espanyol, Avinguda
Carrer Escudellers 49, ∑ cdlcbarcelona.com da Ferrer i Guàrdia 13. Bobby Gin
Barri Gòtic. Map 5 A3. Shôko Map 1 A1. Tel 93 272 Carrer Francisco
Tel 93 318 76 90. Passeig Marítim 36, Port 49 80 / 687 969 825. Giner 47, Gràcia.
∑ marulacafe.com ∑ laterrrazza.com
Olímpic. Map 6 E4. Map 3 B2.
Ocaña Tel 93 225 92 00. Upload Tel 93 368 18 92.
Plaça Reial 13–15. ∑ shoko.biz Poble Espanyol, Avinguda ∑ bobbygin.com
Map 5 A3. Francesc Ferrer i Guàrdia
Tel 93 676 48 14. Eixample 13. Map 1 B1. Eldorado
Plaça del Sol 4,
El Raval Antilla Tel 932 28 98 08. Gràcia. Map 3 B1.
∑ uploadbarcelona.
Carrer d’Aragó 141–3.
El Cangrejo Tel 93 451 45 64. com Mirablau
Carrer Montserrat 9. Map ∑ antillasalsa.com Plaça Doctor
2 F4. Tel 93 301 29 78. Poble Sec Andreu, Tibidabo.
City Hall
Moog Rambla de Catalunya 2–4, Apolo Tel 93 418 58 79.
Carrer L’Arc del Teatre 3, Eixample. Map 3 A3. Carrer Nou de la Rambla ∑ mirablaubcn.com
El Raval. Map 2 F4. Tel 93 233 33 33. 113, Poble Sec. Map 2 D4.
Tel 93 319 1789. ∑ cityhallbarcelona. Tel 93 441 40 01.
∑ masimas.com com ∑ sala-apolo.com
198-199_EW_Spain.indd 199 26/09/17 11:01 am

200-201_EW_Spain.indd 200 05/10/15 2:46 pm
Eyewitness Travel LAYERS PRINTED:
Section openers template “UK” LAYER
(SourceReport v1.1)
Date 15th November 2012
Size 125mm x 217mm

EASTERN


SPAIN





Introducing Eastern Spain 202–209

Catalonia 210–229
Aragón 230–245
Valencia and Murcia 246–267

















































200-201_EW_Spain.indd 201 05/10/15 2:46 pm

202  EASTERN SP AIN

Introducing Eastern Spain

Eastern Spain covers an extraordinary range of climates and
landscapes, from the snowbound peaks of the Pyrenees in Jaca Puigcerdà
Aragón to the beaches of the Costa Blanca and Costa Cálida, Pont de Suert La Seu
popular for their winter warmth and sunshine. The region has Campo de Urgell
a wealth of historical sights including ancient monasteries Huesca
near Barcelona, magni ficent Roman ruins in Tarragona, Almudévar Benabarre Berga Girona
Mudéjar churches and towers in Aragón and the great CATALONIA Vic
cathedrals of Valencia and Murcia. Away from the busy Monzón (See pp210–29)
coasts, the country side is often attractive but little visited. Gallur
Manresa
Tàrrega
Zaragoza
Lleida
Bujaraloz Montblanc Barcelona
Calatayud Poblet
ARAGÓN Sitges
(See pp230–45)
Móra d'Ebre Tarragona
Calamocha Alcañiz
Tortosa
Montalbán
Ordesa National Park (see pp236–7) Morella
in the Pyrenees has some of the most Alfambra
dramatic mountain scenery in Spain. Benicarló
It makes excellent walking country. Teruel

Benicàssim
Zaragoza (see pp240–41) has
many striking churches, Castellón
de la
especially the cathedral, the Plana
Basílica de Nuestra Señora Chelva Sagunto
del Pilar, and the Mudéjar-
style Iglesia de la Magdalena.
Requena Valencia
Valencia (see pp254–7) is VALENCIA
Spain’s third-largest city. It AND MURCIA
has an old centre of narrow (See pp246–67)
streets overlooked by venerable Xàtiva Gandia
houses and monuments, such
as the Miguelete, the cathedral’s
conspicuous bell tower. The Alcoy Xábia
city hosts a spectacular festival,
Las Fallas, in March.
Benidorm
Elda
Jumilla
0 kilometres 50 Alicante
0 miles 50 Cieza Elche
Caravaca de
La Cruz
Murcia Cathedral (see p266), Murcia
built in the 14th century, has
a Baroque façade and belfry, Alhama de Murcia San Javier
and two ornate side chapels –
one in Late Gothic style and Lorca
the other Renaissance. The Mazarrón Cartagena
cathedral museum houses
Gothic altarpieces and
other fascinating exhibits. Águillas
Picturesque town of Albarracín, surrounded by stony hills, Teruel province



202-203_EW_Spain.indd 202 26/09/17 11:53 am

INTRODUCING EASTERN SP AIN  203


Ordesa National Park


Jaca Puigcerdà
Pont de Suert
Campo La Seu
de Urgell
Huesca Benabarre Berga
Almudévar Girona
Monzón CATALONIA Vic
(See pp210–29)
Gallur
Manresa
Tàrrega
Zaragoza
Lleida
Bujaraloz Montblanc Barcelona
Calatayud Poblet
ARAGÓN Sitges
(See pp230–45)
Móra d'Ebre Tarragona
Calamocha Alcañiz
Tortosa
Montalbán
The Costa Brava (see pp220–
Morella 21), stretching south from
Alfambra the French border, is a mix
of cliffs, wooded coves and
Benicarló
Teruel pretty beaches. Lloret de Mar
is the busiest, most popular
tourist resort on the coast.
Benicàssim
Castellón Poblet (see pp226–7),
de la enclosed by triple walls, is
Plana one of the most interesting
Chelva Sagunto medieval Cistercian mon-
asteries in Catalonia. It
contains a royal pantheon
Requena Valencia with the carved tombs of
six of the kings of Aragón.
VALENCIA
AND MURCIA Tarragona
(See pp246–67) (see pp228–9) was
Xàtiva Gandia one of the most
important cities
in Roman Spain.
Alcoy Xábia Among its
remains are an
amphitheatre and an aqueduct.
Benidorm
Elda A statue of Roger de Llúria, the
Jumilla great 13th-century Catalan naval
commander, overlooks the beach.
Alicante
Cieza Elche
Caravaca de
La Cruz
Murcia
Alhama de Murcia
San Javier The Costa Blanca (see pp262–5) is an
attractive coast, as well as a popular
Lorca holiday destination. Calp is overshadowed
Mazarrón Cartagena by a huge rock, the Penyal d’Ifach. In
La Vila Joiosa, a line of houses has
been painted in striking colours to
Águillas make them visible to sailors at sea.


202-203_EW_Spain.indd 203 26/09/17 11:53 am

204  EASTERN SP AIN


The Flavours of Eastern Spain

The current stars of Spain’s culinary firmament are Catalans
like Ferran Adriá or Carme Ruscalleda, whose creativity
and innovation have brought them international acclaim.
Fashionable new eateries and traditional country inns alike still
place the emphasis firmly on fresh local ingredients. Along with
adjoining Murcia and Catalonia, Valencia produces a huge array
of fruit, vegetables, seafood, meat and game, all heaped colourfully
in local markets. Rice is the key ingredient in paella and its many
local variations. In landlocked Aragón, country cooking includes
dishes that recall the Arabic occupation more than 1,000 years ago. Valencian rice

obsession). Spain’s finest but also beef, rabbit and
chefs create culinary fireworks free-range chicken, often
in their celebrated restaurants, served simply grilled or slowly
but Catalan cuisine, even at its simmered in earthen ware pots.
most experimental, is essentially There is also much excellent
simple and relies on the wond- charcuterie, including hams and
erful freshness of its produce. cured sausages, some flavoured
with spices, which are often
used to flavour the hearty stews
Aragón
popular in the mountainous
In landlocked, mountainous north. River trout and eels are
Aragón, the emphasis is firmly regularly found on local menus
Fresh octopus lie on the ice of a on meat – particularly lamb, and, perhaps unusually so far
fish-seller’s stall
Artichokes Onions Aubergines (eggplants)
Catalonia Celery
The incredible variety of
fresh produce in Catalonia is
a ref lection of the varied land-
scape – the Mediterranean
provides all manner of fish and
shell fish, the inland plains offer a
wealth of vegetables and fields Capers Tomatoes
of golden rice, and the moun-
tains contribute meat, game Green beans
and wild mushrooms (a Catalan A range of fresh vegetables grown in eastern Spain


Regional Dishes and Specialities
The lush Mediterranean coastline, backed by
fertile plains and cool mountains, offers an
extraordin ary abundance of fresh produce
here. From the sturdy stews of land-locked
Aragón and the traditional cured meats of
inland Murcia, to the celebrated seafood
paellas and other rice dishes of Valencia,
this is a region that dazzles with the variety
of its cuisine. Spring and summer bring tiny
Candied fruits broad beans, asparagus, and all manner of
other vegetables and fruits. In autumn and
winter, the annual pig slaughter is followed by the preparation
of hams and cured meats, mushrooms proliferate on shady hills, Suquet de peix A Catalan
and gamey stews keep out the winter cold. Seafood remains a stew of fresh, firm-fleshed fish,
constant, whether in zarzuela de mariscos (a rich shellfish stew) flavoured with tomatoes,
or the Murcian favourite of sea bream baked in a salty crust.
garlic and toasted almonds.






204-205_EW_Spain.indd 204 26/09/17 11:01 am
Eyewitness Travel LAYERS PRINTED:
Feature template “UK” LAYER
(SourceReport v1.3)
Date 7th January 2013
Size 125mm x 217mm

INTRODUCING EASTERN SP AIN  205



The mountainous hinterland
is famous for its flavoursome
embutidos (cured meats),
especially morcilla (black
pudding/blood sausage)
and chorizo (spicy, paprika-
flavoured cured sausage),
along with its excellent rice,
which has earned its own
DO (denominación de origen).
Along the coast, you can
enjoy a wide range of fresh
Mediterranean seafood,
including sea bream baked in
a salt crust, or lobster stew
Spectacular harvest of wild autumn mushrooms in a local market from the Mar Menor. The
area’s Arabic heritage lingers
Murcia
north, the ancient Arabic particularly in the desserts,
heritage can still be tasted in Tiny, arid Murcia is almost a flavoured with saffron, pine
exquisite local sweets and desert in parts but, thanks to nuts and delicate spices.
desserts, from candied fruits to irrigation methods introduced
heavenly guirlache, made from by the Arabs more than 1,000 ON THE MENU
almonds and sugar. years ago, it has become one
of the largest fruit- and vege- Arroz Negro A Valencian rice
table-growing regions in Europe. dish; squid ink gives the
Valencia distinctive dark colour.
Valencia, the “Orchard of Spain”, Caldero Murciano Fisher men’s
is magnificently lush and fertile. stew, flavoured with saffron and
Most famous for its oranges, plenty of garlic.
it also produces countless Dorada a la Sal Sea bream
other fruits and vegetables, baked in a salty crust to keep the
partnered in local recipes fish moist and succulent.
with Mediterranean seafood Fideuá A paella made with
and mountain lamb, rabbit shellfish and tiny noodles instead
and pork. In spring, hillsides of rice.
blaze with cherry and almond Guirlache An Aragonese sweet,
blossom and, in autumn, the made of toasted whole almonds
golden rice fields are spec tac- and buttery caramel.
ular. Spain’s signature dish, Migas con Tropezones Crusty
paella, is a Valencian invention – breadcrumbs fried with garlic,
the local plump bomba rice is An embutidos (cured meats) producer pork and spicy cured sausage.
perfect for soaking up juices. shows off his wares
















Paella In Spain’s best-known Lentejas al estilo del Alto Crema Catalana This hugely
dish, ingredients include saffron, Aragón Lentils are slowly popular dessert is an eggy
round bomba rice, and meat, cooked with garlic, chunks of custard topped with a
fish and shellfish. ham and black sausage. flambéed sugar crust.






204-205_EW_Spain.indd 205 26/09/17 11:01 am

206  EASTERN SP AIN


Wines of Eastern Spain

Spain’s eastern seaboard offers a wide spread of wines
of different styles. Catalonia deserves pride of place, and
here the most important region is Penedès, home of cava
(traditional-method sparkling wine) and some high-quality
still wine. In Aragón, Cariñena reds can be good, and
Somontano, in the Pyrenees, has fine, international-style
varietals. Valencia and Murcia pro vide large quantities of Jaca
easy-drinking reds, whites and rosados (rosés). Most notable N240
N260 Capmany
N260
among these are the rosés of Utiel-Requena, the Valencian Cabernet Sauvignon vines La Seu Peralada
Moscatels and the strong, full-bodied reds made in Jumilla. de Urgell Figueres
N260
Huesca
Barbastro Girona
CATALONIA Vic
Borja A23 Monzón N240
Manresa AP7
AP68
A2
Zaragoza Sant Sadurní A54
A2 ARAGÓN Lleida Barberà de d'Anoia Alella
AP2 la Conca Barcelona
N234
N232
Calatayud A23 Montblanc Vilafranca del Penedès
Cariñena Ebro Valls Sitges
Gandesa Tarragona
Alcañiz
Calamocha
N211
Somontano has had
remarkable success Montalbán Tortosa
due to the cultivation N420 AP7
of international grape N234 N232
varieties such as
Chardonnay and Teruel Benicarló
Pinot Noir.
N330 A23
Monastery of Poblet and Las Murallas vineyards in Catalonia 0 kilometres 100 Guadalavar Benicàssim
0 miles 50 Castellón de
la Plana
Key Facts about Wines of Eastern Spain Chelva Sagunto
Catalonia has Parellada, Macabeo and Xarel·lo Utiel Lliria
Location and Climate (the trio most commonly used for cava), Chiva Valencia
The climate of Eastern Spain varies while in Valencia, Merseguera and Moscatel Requena A3
mainly with altitude – low-lying predominate. In the regions fur thest to the
parts are hot and dry; it also gets PAÍS
hotter the further south you go. The wine regions southeast, Airén and Pedro Ximénez are some- VALENCIANO
times found. French grape varieties, such as
of Catalonia have a Mediterranean climate along the Chardonnay, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and A7 AP7
coast, which becomes drier further inland. The mid- Sauvignon Blanc, flourish in the regions of Gandia
dle Penedès is a favoured location with a range of Penedès, Costers del Segre and Somontano. Ontinyent
climates which suits many grape varieties. Jalón Xábia
Somontano has a cooler, altitude-tempered Good Producers Yecla A31 AP7
climate. Valencia and Murcia can be, in contrast, Somontano: Viñas del Vero, Viñedos Villena
unrelentingly hot. Jumilla Benidorm
del Altoaragón. Alella: Marqués de
Alella, Parxet. Penedès: Codorníu, Elda
Grape Varieties Conde de Caralt, Freixenet, Juvé y A30 Alicante
The most common native red Camps, Masía Bach, Mont-Marçal, A7 Elche
grape varieties planted in much René Barbier, Miguel Torres. Costers del Segre:
of Eastern Spain are Garnacha, Castell del Remei, Raimat. Priorat: Cellers Scala Murcia
Tempranillo – which is called Ull Dei, Masía Barril. Valencia: Vicente Gandia. Utiel- Torreviaja
de Llebre in Catalonia – Monastrell MURCIA
and Cariñena. Bobal makes both reds and, to a Requena: C. Augusto Egli. Alicante: Gutiérrez
de la Vega. Jumilla: Asensio Carcelén (Sol y
greater extent, rosés in Utiel-Requena. For whites, AP7
Luna), Bodegas Vitivino. Cartagena
206-207_EW_Spain.indd 206 26/09/17 11:01 am

INTRODUCING EASTERN SP AIN  207


Raimat is an estate near
Lleida and it is here that
Viña 27 Chardonnay, one
of its most recognized
products, is made.


Freixenet winery in Sant Sadurni, renowned
for cava
Jaca
Capmany
N240
N260
N260 Peralada
La Seu
de Urgell N260 Figueres
Somontano Huesca
Barbastro Girona
CATALONIA Vic
Borja A23 Monzón N240
Manresa AP7
AP68
A2
Zaragoza Sant Sadurní A54
A2 ARAGÓN Lleida Barberà de d'Anoia Alella
AP2 la Conca Barcelona
N234
N232
Calatayud A23 Montblanc Vilafranca del Penedès
Cariñena Ebro Valls Sitges
Gandesa Tarragona
Alcañiz Key
Calamocha
N211 Campo de Borja,
Calatayud and Cariñena
Montalbán Tortosa Somontano
N420 AP7 Empordà-Costa Brava
N232
N234
Alella
Benicarló
Teruel Penedès
Torres, an inno vator, Conca de Barberà
N330 A23 planted international Costers del Segre
Guadalavar Benicàssim grape varieties such as Tarragona and Terra Alta
Cabernet Sauvignon.
Castellón de
la Plana Priorat
Chelva Valencia
Sagunto Utiel-Requena
Lliria produces rosés as Utiel-Requena
Utiel Alicante, Yecla and Jumilla
Chiva Valencia well as hearty reds,
Requena A3 such as this one
from the Bobal
PAÍS grape variety.
VALENCIANO
Jumilla’s hilly vineyards
A7 AP7
Gandia are planted with the black
Monastrell grape, which can
Ontinyent Xábia produce highly concentrated,
Jalón and sometimes sweet, reds.
Yecla A31 AP7
Villena
Jumilla Benidorm
Elda
A30 Alicante Wine Regions
A7 Elche
Penedès, Catalonia’s premier wine region, produces a range of wines
Murcia as well as cava, from delicate whites to beefy reds. Catalonia’s smaller
Torreviaja wine regions include Alella and Priorat. Two up-and-coming regions,
MURCIA situated inland, are Costers del Segre and Conca de Barberà. Aragón’s
leading wine region is Somantano, northeast of Zaragoza. Further
AP7 south lie the exten sive, bulk-producing vineyards of Valencia,
Cartagena
Utiel-Requena, Alicante, and, in Murcia, Jumilla and Yecla.
206-207_EW_Spain.indd 207 26/09/17 11:01 am

208  EASTERN SP AIN


Flowers of the Matorral

The matorral, a scrubland rich in wild flowers, is the
distinctive land scape of Spain’s eastern Mediterranean
coast. It is the result of centuries of woodland clearance,
during which the native holm oak was felled for timber
and to provide land for grazing and cultivation. Many
colourful plants have adapted to the extremes of climate
here. Most flower in spring, when hillsides are daubed
with pink and white cistuses and yellow broom, and the
air is perfumed by aromatic herbs such as rosemary,
lavender and thyme. Buzzing insects feed on the
abundance of nectar and pollen.

The century plant’s Spanish broom is a small bush with
flower stalk can reach yellow flowers on slender branches.
10 m (32 ft). The black seed pods split when dry,
scattering the seeds on the ground.
Jerusalem sage, Aleppo pine Rosemary
an attractive shrub
which is often
grown in
gardens, has tall
stems surrounded
by bunches of
showy yellow
flowers. Its leaves
are greyish-white
and woolly.
Rose garlic has
round clusters
of violet or
pink flowers
at the end of
a single stalk.
It survives
the summer
as the bulb familiar to all cooks.

Common
thyme is a
Foreign Invaders low-growing
Several plants from the New World have aromatic herb,
managed to colonize the bare ground of which is
the matorral. The prickly pear, thought to widely cultivated
have been brought back by Christopher for use in
Columbus, produces a the kitchen.
delicious fruit which can
Prickly pear be picked only with The mirror orchid, a
in fruit thickly gloved hands. small plant that grows
The rapidly growing on grassy sites, is easily
century plant, a native of Mexico which distinguished from
has tough spiny leaves, sends up a tall other orchids by the
flower shoot only when it is 10–15 years brilliant metallic
old, after which it dies. blue patch inside
the lip, fringed
Flowering shoots of the century plant by brown hairs.






208-209_EW_Spain.indd 208 26/09/17 11:53 am

INTRODUCING EASTERN SP AIN  209



Temp Rainfall Most plants found
ºC/F in/mm Wildlife of the Matorral
30 60 in the matorral
80 come into bloom
25 2 50 in the warm, moist The animals that live in the
70 matorral are most often seen
20 40 spring. The plants
1.5 early in the morning, before
15 60 30 protect themselves the temperature is high.
1 from losing water Countless insects fly from
10 50 20 during the dry flower to flower, providing a
0.5 sum mer heat with
5 40 10 source of food for birds. Smaller
thick leaves or
0 0 waxy secretions, or mammals, such as mice and
J F M A M J J A S O N D voles, are active only at night,
by storing moisture
Temperature Rainfall in bulbs or tubers. when it is cooler and there are
few predators around.
Holm oaks are very
common in Eastern
Spain. The leaves are
tough and rubbery to
prevent water loss.
The strawberry Ladder snakes feed on
tree is an evergreen small mammals, birds and
shrub with glossy insects. The young are
serrated leaves. identified by a black pattern
Its edible, like the rungs of a ladder, but
strawberry-like fruit adults are marked with two
turns red when ripe. simple stripes.
Scorpions hide under
Tree heather rocks or wood by
day. When
distur bed, the
tail is curled
quickly over
the body in a
threatening
gesture. The sting, lethal to
small animals, can cause
some irritation to humans.
The
Dartford
warbler, a
skulking bird
Grey­leaved cistus, that has dark
growing on sunny plumage and a
sites, has crumpled cocked tail, sings
petals and bright melodiously
yellow anthers. during its mating display.
Males are more vividly
Narrow­leaved cistus coloured than females.
exudes a sticky aromatic
gum used in perfumes. The swallow­
tail butterfly
is one of the
most cons-
picuous of the
great many
Star clover is a low-growing insects living in the matorral.
annual whose fruit develops Bees, ants and grasshoppers
into a star-shaped seed head. are also extremely common.
Its flowers are often pale pink.






208-209_EW_Spain.indd 209 26/09/17 11:53 am

210-211_EW_Spain.indd 210 26/09/17 11:01 am

EASTERN SP AIN  211

CATALONIA


Lleida • Andorra • Girona • Barcelona province • Tarragona
Catalonia is a proud nation-within-a-nation, which was
once, under the count-kings of Barcelona-Aragón,
one of the Mediterranean’s great sea powers. It has its own
semi-autonomous regional government and its own
language, Catalan, which is used in place names, menus
and on road signs throughout the region.
The Romans first set foot on the Inland, there is a rich artistic heritage
Iberian Peninsula at Empúries on to be explored. Catalonia has several
Catalonia’s Costa Brava (“wild coast”). spectacular monas teries, especially
They left behind them great monuments, Montserrat, its spiritual heart, and
especially in and around Tarragona, Poblet. There are also many medieval
the capital of their vast province of towns, such as Montblanc, Besalú and
Tarraconensis. Later, Barcelona emerged Girona – which contain a wealth of
as the region’s capital, economically monuments and museums.
and culturally important enough to In the countryside there is a lot to seek
rival Madrid. out, from the wetland wildlife of the
In the 1960s the Costa Brava became Delta de l’Ebre area to the vineyards
one of Europe’s first mass package-holiday of Penedès (where most of Spain’s
destinations. Although resorts such as sparkling wine is made). In the high
Lloret de Mar continue to draw the Pyrenees rare butterflies brighten
crowds, former fishing villages such as remote mountain valleys, and little
Cadaqués remain relatively unspoiled on hidden villages encircle exquisite
this naturally attractive coast. Romanesque churches.





























Aigüestortes i Estany Sant Maurici National Park in the central Pyrenees, in the province of Lleida
Boats shelter in Tossa de Mar’s horseshoe bay on the Costa Brava



210-211_EW_Spain.indd 211 26/09/17 11:01 am

212  EASTERN SP AIN

Exploring Catalonia

Catalonia includes a long stretch of the Spanish Pau
Toulouse
Pyrenees, whose green, flower-filled valleys hide
picturesque villages with Romanesque churches.
The Parc Nacional d’Aigüestortes and Vall d’Aran VALL D'ARAN
are paradises for naturalists, while Baqueira-Beret BAQUEIRA-BERET F R A N C E
offers skiers reliable snow. Sun-lovers can choose VIELHA Artíes Pica d’Estats
3115m
between the rugged Costa Brava or the long sandy Esterri d'Àneu
stretches of the Costa Daurada. Tarragona is rich in D'AIGÜESTORTES ANDORRA
PARC NACIONAL
Roman monuments while the inland monasteries Boí Llavorsí P
of Poblet and Santes Creus, and the well-known VALL DE BOI Tossal de l’Orri Andorra la Vella y r Perpignan
vineyards of Penedès, provide idyllic scenery. Pont de Sort 2437m PUIGCERDÀ La Jonquera Portbou
e n e e s
Suert D'URGELL Torre de Cadí Ribes de Camprodon Llançà Cap de
Martinet
LA SEU
Noguera Ribagorçana Tremp Embassament Coll de 2567m Bagà La Pobla Freser SANT JOAN DE BESALÚ Bàscara Golf de Roses
Creus
CADAQUÉS
FIGUERES
Roses
LES ABADESSES
La Pobla de Segur
de Lillet
RIPOLL
OLOT
Nargó
EMPÚRIES
de Talarn
Noguera Pallaresa Isona Embassament SOLSONA Gironella e l Llobregat Lluçanès Manlleu Sant Quirze Banyoles Parlavà PERATALLADA
L'Escala
Berga
d’ Oliana
L'Estartit
de Besora
el Te r
Prats de
Pantà de Sau
Embalse Anglès El Ter GIRONA
de Canelles El Segre Ponts CARDONA VIC Santa Coloma Palafrugell
Isolated houses in the countryside around Artesa de Segre Tona de Farners Cassà de la S'Agaró
Selva
La Seu d’Urgell Alfarràs Súria Sallent Moià Arbúcies Caldes de Malavella Palamós
Agramunt C A T A L O N I A Sils Llagostera Sant Feliu de Guíxols
Balaguer Montseny
Almacelles
Bellcaire d'Urgell Calaf Manresa TOSSA DE MAR
Key Bell-lloc La Garriga Tordera Lloret de Mar
C o s t a B r a v a
d'Urgell
Tàrrega MONTSERRAT Sant Celoni BLANES
Motorway (highway) LLEIDA Bellpuig Granollers Calella
Alcarràs Terrassa
Other highway Juneda Castellolí Sabadell Arenys de Mar
Belianes Santa Coloma Igualada
Main road les Borges Blanques de Queralt Martorell Mataró
Premià de Mar
Minor road Seròs L ‘Anoia Rubí Santa Coloma
Scenic route Zaragoza MONTBLANC de Llobregat de Gramanet
Sant Feliu
Main railway La Granadella POBLET SANTES Barcelona
Maials CREUS VILAFRANCA
Minor railway DEL PENEDÈS L'Hospitalet de Llobregat
La Bisbal de Falset
El Prat de Llobregat
International border Alcover Valls Castelldefels
Regional border Flix El Vendrell SITGES
Vilanova
Summit Ascò Reus i la Geltrú
Falset Torredembarra MEDITERRANEAN
Batea Móra d'Ebre Móra la Cambrils SEA
Nova TARRAGONA
Gandesa Salou C O S T A D A U R A D A
Getting Around Ebro Cap de
Salou
A tunnel near Puigcerdà Rasquera L'Hospitalet
de l'Infant
has made the central Xerta L'Ametlla de Mar
Catalan Pyrenees easily El Perelló
Golf de
accessible. Buses, more Sant Jordi
frequent in summer, TORTOSA
connect most towns. L'Aldea Cap Tortosa
The main north–south Amposta DELTA
railway hugs the coast DE L'EBRE
from Blanes southwards. Sant Carles de la Ràpita
Other lines run from Ulldecona
Barcelona through Vic, Alcanar La Banya
Lleida and Tortosa. 0 kilometres 25
Valencia 0 miles 15
For keys to symbols see back flap
212-213_EW_Spain.indd 212 26/09/17 11:53 am

C A T AL ONIA  213




Pau
Toulouse
VALL D'ARAN
BAQUEIRA-BERET
VIELHA Artíes Pica d’Estats F R A N C E
3115m
Esterri d'Àneu
ANDORRA
Church on the seafront of Sitges
PARC NACIONAL
Boí P
D'AIGÜESTORTES
Llavorsí y r Perpignan
VALL DE BOI Tossal de l’Orri Andorra la Vella e n e e s Portbou
Pont de Sort 2437m PUIGCERDÀ La Jonquera
Suert D'URGELL Torre de Cadí Ribes de Camprodon Llançà Cap de
Martinet
LA SEU
Noguera Ribagorçana Tremp Embassament Coll de 2567m Bagà La Pobla Freser SANT JOAN DE BESALÚ Bàscara Golf de Roses
Creus
CADAQUÉS
FIGUERES
LES ABADESSES
La Pobla de Segur
Roses
de Lillet
RIPOLL
OLOT
Nargó
EMPÚRIES
de Talarn
Noguera Pallaresa Isona Embassament SOLSONA Gironella e l Llobregat Prats de Manlleu Sant Quirze Banyoles Parlavà L'Estartit
L'Escala
Berga
d’ Oliana
de Besora
el Te r
Lluçanès
Pantà de Sau
PERATALLADA
Embalse Anglès El Ter GIRONA
de Canelles El Segre Ponts CARDONA VIC Santa Coloma Palafrugell
de Farners Cassà de la S'Agaró
Artesa de Segre Tona Selva
Alfarràs Súria Sallent Moià Arbúcies Caldes de Malavella Palamós
Agramunt C A T A L O N I A Sils Llagostera Sant Feliu de Guíxols
Balaguer Montseny
Almacelles
Bellcaire d'Urgell Calaf Manresa TOSSA DE MAR
Bell-lloc La Garriga Tordera Lloret de Mar
C o s t a B r a v a
d'Urgell
Tàrrega MONTSERRAT Sant Celoni BLANES
LLEIDA Bellpuig Granollers Calella
Alcarràs Terrassa
Juneda Castellolí Sabadell Arenys de Mar
Belianes Santa Coloma Igualada
les Borges Blanques de Queralt Mataró
Martorell Rubí
Premià de Mar
Seròs L ‘Anoia Santa Coloma
Zaragoza Sant Feliu de Gramanet
MONTBLANC de Llobregat
La Granadella SANTES Barcelona
Maials POBLET CREUS VILAFRANCA
DEL PENEDÈS L'Hospitalet de Llobregat
La Bisbal de Falset El Prat de Llobregat
Alcover Valls Castelldefels
Flix El Vendrell SITGES
Vilanova
Ascò Reus i la Geltrú
Falset Torredembarra MEDITERRANEAN
Batea Móra d'Ebre Móra la Cambrils SEA
Nova TARRAGONA
Gandesa Salou C O S T A D A U R A D A
Ebro Rasquera Cap de Vineyards outside Gandesa, west of Tarragona
Salou
L'Hospitalet
de l'Infant
Xerta
L'Ametlla de Mar Sights at a Glance
El Perelló 1 Vall d’Aran 9 Ripoll i Tossa de Mar j Santes Creus
Golf de
TORTOSA Sant Jordi 2 Vielha 0 Sant Joan de o Blanes k Vilafranca del
3 Baqueira- les Abadesses p Montserrat pp222–3 Penedès
L'Aldea Cap Tortosa
Amposta DELTA Beret q Olot a Vic l Sitges
DE L'EBRE 4 Vall de Boí w Besalú s Cardona z Costa Daurada
Sant Carles de la Ràpita 5 Parc Nacional e Girona d Solsona x Tarragona
Ulldecona d’Aigüestortes r Figueres f Lleida c Tortosa
Alcanar La Banya 6 Andorra t Cadaqués g Monestir de Poblet v Delta de l’Ebre
7 La Seu d’Urgell y Empúries pp226–7 Barcelona see pp142–3
8 Puigcerdà u Peratallada h Montblanc
Valencia
212-213_EW_Spain.indd 213 26/09/17 11:53 am

214  EASTERN SP AIN

























The Vall d’Aran, surrounded by the snowcapped mountains of the Pyrenees
1 Vall d’Aran 2 Vielha
Butterflies of the
Vall d’Aran Lleida. @ Vielha. n Carrer Sarriulèra Lleida. * 5,400. @ n Carrer
10, Vielha, 973 64 01 10. Sarriulèra 10, 973 64 01 10. ( Thu.
A huge variety of butterflies ∑ visitvaldaran.com _ Fiesta de Vielha (8 Sep), Feria de
and moths is found high in Vielha (8 Oct).
the mountains and val leys of This Valley of Valleys – aran
the Pyrenees. In particular, the means “valley” – is a beautiful The capital of the Vall d’Aran
isolated Vall d’Aran is the home haven of forests and flower- preserves relics of its medieval
of several unique and rare filled meadows, surrounded past. The Roman esque church
sub species. The best time of by towering mountain peaks. of Sant Miquel has an octagonal
year to see the butterflies is The Vall d’Aran was formed by bell tower, a tall, pointed roof
between May and July. the Riu Garona, which rises in the and a superb wooden
area and flows out to France as 12th-century crucifix, the Mig
the Garonne. With no proper link Aran Christ. It once formed
to the outside world until 1924, part of a larger carving, since
when a road was built over the lost, which represented the
Bonaigua Pass, the valley was cut Descent from the Cross. The
off from the rest of Spain for Musèu dera Vall d’Aran is a
most of the winter. Snow still museum devoted to Aranese
blocks the narrow pass from history and folklore.
Grizzled Skipper (Pyrgus malvae) Novem ber to April, but today
access is easy through the Túnel E Musèu dera Vall d’Aran
de Vielha from El Pont de Suert. Carrer Major 26. Tel 973 64
The fact that the Vall d’Aran 18 15. Open Tue–Sun.
faces north means that it has a Closed public hols.
climate similar to that found on & 7
the Atlantic coast. Many rare wild
flowers and butter flies flourish in
the perfect con ditions created
Clouded Apollo by the damp breezes and shady
(Parnassius mnemosyne) slopes. It is also a noted habitat
for many species of narcissus.
Tiny villages have grown up
beside the Riu Garona, often
around Romanesque churches,
notably at Bossòst, Salardú,
Escunhau and Arties. The
Checkered Skipper valley is also ideal for outdoor
(Carterocephalus palaemon) sports such as skiing and is Mig Aran Christ (12th-century), Sant Miquel
popular with walkers. church, Vielha
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp565–7 and pp588–90


214-215_EW_Spain.indd 214 26/09/17 11:53 am

C A T AL ONIA  215

3 Baqueira-Beret are Espot, to the east, and Boi, to
the west. Dotted around the park
Lleida. * 100. @ n Baqueira-Beret,
973 63 90 25. _ Romería de Nuestra are waterfalls and the sparkling,
Señora de Montgarri (2 Jul). clear waters of around 150 lakes
∑ baqueira.es and tarns which, in an earlier
era, were scoured by glaciers
This ski resort, one of Spain’s best, to depths of up to 50 m (164 ft).
is popular with both the public The finest scenery is around
and the Spanish royal family. Sant Maurici lake, which lies
There is reliable winter snow beneath the twin shards of the
cover and a choice of over 100 Serra dels Encantats (Mountains
pistes at altitudes from 1,520 m of the Enchanted). From here,
to 2,470 m (4,987 ft to 8,104 ft). there is a variety of walks,
Baqueira and Beret were particularly along the string
separate mountain villages of lakes that lead north to
before skiing became popular, The tall belfry of Sant Climent church at the towering peaks of Agulles
but now form a single resort. Taüll in the Vall de Boí d’Amitges. To the south is the
The Romans took full advan tage dramatic vista of Estany Negre,
of the thermal springs located 5 Parc Nacional the highest and deepest tarn
here; nowadays they are d’Aigüestortes in the park.
appreciated by tired skiers. Early summer in the lower
Lleida. £ La Pobla de Segur. @ Pont valleys is marked by a mass of
de Suert, La Pobla de Segur. n Boí, pink and red rhododendrons,
4 Vall de Boí 973 69 61 89; Espot, 973 62 40 36. while later in the year wild lilies
∑ parcsnaturals.gencat.cat/en/
Lleida. £ La Pobla de Segur. aiguestortes bloom in the forests of fir, beech
@ Pont de Suert. n Barruera, and silver birch.
973 69 40 00. ∑ vallboi.com The pristine mountain scen ery The park is also home to a
of Catalonia’s only national variety of wildlife. Chamois (also
This small valley on the edge of park (see pp34–5) is among the known as izards) live on moun-
the Parc Nacional d’Aigüestortes most spectacular to be seen in tain screes and in the meadows,
is dotted with tiny villages, the Pyrenees. while beavers and otters can be
many of which are built around Established in 1955, the park spotted by the lakes. Golden
Catalan Romanesque churches. covers an area of 102 sq km eagles nest on mountain ledges,
Dating from the 11th and (40 sq miles). Its full title is Parc and grouse and caper caillie are
12th centuries, these churches Nacional d’Aigüestortes i Estany found in the woods.
are distinguished by their tall de Sant Maurici, named after the During the summer the park
belfries, such as the Església lake (estany) of Sant Maurici in is popular with walkers, while
de Santa Eulàlia at Erill-la-Vall, the east and the Aigüestortes in winter, the snow-covered
which has six floors. (literally, “twisted waters”) area in mountains are ideal for cross-
The two churches at Taüll, the west. The main access towns country skiing.
Sant Climent (see p28) and
Santa Maria, have superb
frescoes. Between 1919 and
1923 the originals were taken
for safekeeping to the Museu
Nacional d’Art de Catalunya in
Barcelona (see p176) and rep licas
now stand in their place. You
can climb the towers of Sant
Climent for superb views of
the surrounding countryside.
Other churches in the area
worth visiting include those
at Coll, for its fine ironwork,
Barruera, and Durro, which
has another massive bell tower.
At the head of the valley is the
hamlet of Caldes de Boí, popular
for its thermal springs and the
nearby ski station, Boí-Taüll. It is
also a good base for exploring
the Parc Nacional d’Aigüestortes,
the entrance to which is only
5 km (3 miles) from here. Picturesque landscape in the Parc Nacional d’Aigüestortes




214-215_EW_Spain.indd 215 26/09/17 11:53 am

216  EASTERN SP AIN


The Catalan Language right down the beautiful
Cerdanya Valley, watered by
Catalan has now fully recovered from the the trout-filled Riu Segre.
ban it suffered under Franco’s dictator ship Puigcerdà, very close to the
and has supplanted Castilian (Spanish) French border, was founded in
as the language in every day use all 1177 by Alfonso II as the capital
over Catalonia. Spoken by more than of Cerdanya, which shares a past
9.5 million people, it is a Romance language and its culture with the French
akin to the Provençal of France. Previously it Cerdagne. The Spanish enclave
Catalonia’s was suppressed by Felipe V in 1717 and only of Llívia, an attractive little town
national emblem officially resurfaced in the 19th century, when with a medieval pharmacy, lies
the Jocs Florals (medieval poetry contests)
were revived during the rebirth of Catalan literature. A leading figure 6 km (4 miles) inside France.
of the movement was the poet Jacint Verdaguer (1845–1902). Cerdanya is the largest valley
in the Pyrenees. At its edge
is the nature reserve of
Cadí-Moixeró, which has a
6 Andorra 7 La Seu d’Urgell population of alpine choughs.
Principality of Andorra. * 78,000. Lleida. * 12,300. @ n Carrer
@ Andorra la Vella. n Plaça de la Major 8, 973 35 15 11. ( Tue & Sat.
Rotonda, Andorra la Vella, 376 _ Festa Major (Aug).
73 00 03. ∑ visitandorra.com
This ancient Pyrenean town was
Andorra occupies 464 sq km made a bishopric by the Visigoths
(179 sq miles) of the Pyrenees in the 6th century. Feuds
between France and Spain. between the bishops of Urgell
In 1993, it became fully and the Counts of Foix over land
independent and held its ownership led to the emergence
first ever democratic elections. of Andorra in the 13th century.
Since 1278, it had been an The 12th-century cathedral
autonomous feudal state under has a much-venerated Roman-
the jurisdiction of the Spanish esque statue of Santa Maria
bishop of La Seu d’Urgell and d’Urgell. The Museu Diocesà Portal of Monestir de Santa Maria, Ripoll
the French Count of Foix (a contains medieval works of art
title adopted by the President and manuscripts, including a 9 Ripoll
of France). These are still the 10th-century copy of St Beatus Girona. * 11,000. £ @ n Plaça
ceremonial joint heads of state. of Liébana’s Commentary on the Abat Oliba, 972 70 23 51. ( Sat.
Andorra’s official language is Apocalypse (see p114). _ Festa Major (11–12 May).
Catalan, though French and ∑ ripoll.cat/turisme
Castilian are also spoken. The E Museu Diocesà
currency changed from the Plaça del Deganat. Tel 973 35 32 42. Once a tiny mountain base from
peseta to the euro in 2002. Open daily. Closed public hols. & 7 which raids against the Moors
For many years Andorra has were made, Ripoll is now best
been a tax-free paradise for known for the Monestir de Santa
shoppers, reflected in the Maria, built in AD 888. The town
crowded shops of the capital, has been called “the cradle of
Andorra la Vella. Les Escaldes Catalonia”, as the monastery
(near the capital), as well as was both the power base and
Sant Julià de Lòria and El Pas cultural centre of Guifré el Pélos
de la Casa (near the Spanish (Wilfred the Hairy), foun der of
and French borders), have also Carving, La Seu d’Urgell cathedral the 500-year dynasty of the
become shopping centres. House of Barcelona. He is
Most visitors never see buried in the monastery.
Andorra’s rural charms, which 8 Puigcerdà In the later 12th century,
match those of other parts of Girona. * 9,000. £ @ n Plaça the huge west portal gained
the Pyrenees. The region is Santa Maria, 972 88 05 42. ( Sun. a series of intricate carvings,
excellent for walkers. One of the _ Festa de l’Estany (third Sun of which are perhaps the finest
main routes leads to the Cercle Aug). ∑ puigcerda.cat Romanesque carvings in Spain.
de Pessons, a bowl of lakes in They depict historical and
the east, and past Romanesque Puig is Catalan for “hill”. Al though biblical scenes. The two-storey
chapels such as Sant Martí at Puigcerdà sits on a relatively cloister is the only other part of
La Cortinada. In the north is the small hill compared with the the original monastery to have
picturesque Sorteny Valley, where encircling mountains, which survived wars and anti-clerical
traditional farmhouses have been rise to 2,900 m (9,500 ft), it purges. The rest is a 19th-
con verted into snug restaurants. nevertheless has a fine view century reconstruction.
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp565–7 and pp588–90


216-217_EW_Spain.indd 216 26/09/17 11:01 am
Eyewitness Travel LAYERS PRINTED:
Catalogue template “UK” LAYER
(Source v2.1)
Date 5th December 2012
Size 125mm x 217mm

C A T AL ONIA  217























The medieval town of Besalú on the banks of the Riu Fluvià
0 Sant Joan de Environs w Besalú
les Abadesses To the north is Camprodon, a Girona. * 2,400. @ n Carrer del
small town full of grand houses,
Girona. * 3,600. @ n Plaça de and shops selling local produce. Pont 1, 972 59 12 40. ( Tue. _ Sant
l’Abadía 9, 972 72 05 99. ( Sun. The region is especially noted Vicenç (22 Jan), Festa Major (last
_ Festa Major (second Sun of Sep). weekend of Sep). 8 ∑ besalu.cat
∑ santjoandelesabadesses.cat for its embutits (charcuterie).
A magnificent medieval town,
A fine, 12th-century Gothic with a striking approach across
bridge arches over the Riu Ter q Olot a fortified bridge over the Riu
to this unassuming market Girona. * 34,000. @ n Carrer Fluvià, Besalú has two fine
town, whose main attraction Francesc Fàbregas 6, 972 26 01 41. ( churches. These are the
is its monastery. Mon. _ Corpus Christi (Jun), Festa Romanesque Sant Vicenç and
Founded in AD 885, it was del Tura (8 Sep). ∑ turismeolot.com Sant Pere, the sole remnant of
a gift from Guifré, first count Besalú’s Benedictine mon astery.
of Barcelona, to his daughter, This small market town is It was founded in AD 948, but
the first abbess. The church at the centre of a landscape pulled down in 1835.
is una dorned except for a pockmarked with the conical In 1964 a mikvah, a ritual
superb wood en calvary, The hills of extinct volcanoes. But Jewish bath, was discovered.
Descent from the Cross. Made it was an earthquake in 1474 It was built in 1264 and is one
in 1150, it looks modern; part which last disturbed the town, of only three of that period to
of it, a thief, was burned in the destroying its medieval past. survive in Europe. The tourist
Civil War and replaced with During the 18th century the office organizes guided visits
such skill that it is hard to tell town’s textile industry spawn ed to all the town’s attractions.
which is new. The monas tery’s the “Olot School” of art: finished To the south, the sky-blue lake
museum has Baroque and cotton fabrics were printed with of Banyoles, where the 1992
Renaissance altarpieces. drawings, and in 1783 the Public Olympic rowing contests
School of Drawing was founded. were held, is ideal for picnics.
Much of the school’s work,
which includes sculpted saints
and paintings such as Joaquim
Vayreda’s Les Falgueres, is in
the Museu Comarcal de
la Garrotxa, housed in an
18th-century hospice. There
are also pieces by Modernista
sculptor Miquel Blay, whose
damsels support the balcony
at No. 38 Passeig Miquel Blay.
E Museu Comarcal de la Garrotxa
12th-century calvary, Sant Joan de les Carrer Hospici 8. Tel 972 27 11 66. Sausage shop in the mountain town
Abadesses monastery Closed for renovation. & 7 of Camprodon




216-217_EW_Spain.indd 217 26/09/17 11:01 am

218  EASTERN SP AIN
PALAMOS
Girona Old Town
PLAÇA
1 Església de Sant Pere de Galligants SANT
PERE
2 Banys Àrabs Sant
3 Església de Sant Feliu C BELLAIRE Nicolau Església de Sant
4 Catedral C BARCA Pere de Galligants
(Museu Arquelògic)
5 Museu d’Art
6 Museu d’Història de Girona Jardi C SANT DANIEL
Dr. Figueras
7 Museu d’Història dels Jueus Sant Feliu Banys PL Riu Galligants
Àrabs
JURATS
PLAÇA
SANT Passeig Arqueològic
FELIU
Casa PASSEIG REINA JOANA
Pastors Catedral
PL DE LA
CATEDRAL
Riu Onyar
Pia Museu
Almoina d'Art
C CALDERES
Museu C. CALL
C JOSÉ CANALEJAS
Pont de d'Història
Manuel de Girona SANT
GIRONA Gòmez LLORENÇ
NEW TOWN C FORÇA
0 metres 250 BALLESTERIES
PL SANT
Airport Museu d’ DOMÈNECH
0 yards 250 13km (8 miles) Història
Train station Pont de dels Jueus
1km (0.5 mile) Sant
Augusti
PLAÇA
INDEPENDENCIA
Oficina de Tourisme
(Oficina de Tourismo)
For keys to symbols see back flap 300m (330 yards)
e Girona been turned into the Passeig Feliu. The church, begun in the
Arqueològic (Archaeological 14th century, was built over
Girona. * 98,000. k £ @
n Rambla de la Llibertat 1, 972 01 Walk), which runs around the city. the tombs of St Felix and St
00 01. ( Tue, Sat. _ Sant Narcís The walk starts on the north Narcissus, both patrons of
(late Oct). ∑ girona.cat/turisme side of the town, near the the city. Next to the high altar
Església de Sant Pere de are eight Roman sarcophagi
This handsome town puts on its Galligants (St Peter of the Cock embedded in the apse wall.
best face beside the Riu Onyar, Crows). The church now holds the Despite their name, the
where tall, pastel-coloured city’s archaeological collection. nearby Banys Àrabs (Arab Baths),
buildings rise above the water. From here a narrow street lit by a fine octagonal lantern,
Behind them, in the Old Town, into the old part of town were built in the late 12th
the Rambla de la Llibertat is lined passes through the north gate, century, about 300 years after
with busy shops and street cafés. where huge Roman foundation the Moors had left.
The houses were built in the stones are still visible. They
19th century to replace sec tions mark the route of the Via E Museu d’Història dels Jueus
of the city wall damaged during Augusta, the road that originally Carrer de la Força 8. Tel 972 21 67 61.
a seven-month siege by French ran from Tarragona to Rome. Open 10am–6pm Tue–Sat (Jul & Aug:
troops in 1809. Most of the rest of The most popular place of to 8pm; Sep–Jun: to 2pm). Closed 1 &
the ramparts, first raised by the devotion for the people of 6 Jan, 25 & 26 Dec. & 8 7
Romans, are still intact and have Girona is the Església de Sant ∑ girona.cat/call
Amid the maze of alleyways
and steps in the Old Town is the
former, partially restored, Jewish
quarter of El Call. The Museu
d’Història dels Jueus gives a
history of Girona’s Jews, who were
expelled in the late 15th century.
R Cathedral
Open 10am–6:30pm daily (Jul–Aug:
to 7:30pm; Nov–Mar: to 5:30pm). &
free Sun. ∑ catedraldegirona.cat
The style of Girona Cathedral’s
solid west face is pure Catalan
Baroque, but the rest of the
building is Gothic. The single
Painted houses crowded along the bank of the Riu Onyar in Girona nave, built in 1416 by Guillem
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp565–7 and pp588–90
218-219_EW_Spain.indd 218 26/09/17 11:01 am
Eyewitness Travel LAYERS PRINTED:
Catalogue template “UK” LAYER
(Source v2.1)
Date 5th December 2012
Size 125mm x 217mm

C A T AL ONIA  219


Bofill, is the widest Gothic span r Figueres
in Christendom. Behind the altar
is a marble throne known as Girona. * 45,000. £ @ n Plaça
“Charlemagne’s Chair” after the de l’Escorxador 2, 972 50 31 55. (
Thu. _ Santa Creu (3 May), Sant Pere
Frankish king whose troops took (29 Jun). ∑ visitfigueres.cat
Girona in 785. In the chancel is
a 14th-century jewel-encrusted Figueres is in the north of the
silver and enamel altarpiece. In Empordà (Ampurdán) region,
the mu seum are Romanesque the fertile plain that sweeps
paint ings and statues such as a inland from the Gulf of Roses.
14th-century statue of the Catalan Every Thursday, the market
king, Pere the Ceremonious, here fills with fruit and
and a 10th-century illuminated vegetables from the area.
copy of St Beatus of Liébana’s The Museu del Joguet (Toy
Commentary on the Apocalypse. Museum) is housed on the top
The collection’s most famous floor of the old Hotel de Paris,
item is a large, well-preserved on the Rambla, Figueres’ main
11th- to 12th-century tapestry, street. Inside are exhibits from Rainy Taxi, a monument in the garden of
called The Creation. all over Catalonia. At the lower the Teatre-Museu Dalí
end of the Rambla is a statue
of Narcís Monturiol i Estarriol displays, including Rainy Taxi –
(1819–85), claimed to be the a black Cadillac being sprayed
inventor of the submarine. by a fountain – are a monument
A much better known son to the man who, fittingly, is
of the town is Salvador Dalí, buried here.
who founded the Teatre-Museu
Dalí in 1974. The most visited E Museu del Joguet
museum in Spain after the Carrer Sant Pere 1. Tel 972 50 45 85.
Prado, the galleries occupy Open daily. & 7
Figueres’ old main theatre. Its E Teatre-Museu Dalí
Tapestry of The Creation roof has an eye-catching glass Plaça Gala-Salvador Dalí. Tel 972 67 75
dome. Not all the work shown 00. Open Jun–Sep: daily; Oct–May:
E Museu d’Art is by Dalí, and none of his best- Tue–Sun. Closed Mon Oct–May, 1 Jan,
Pujada de la Catedral 12. Tel 972 41 known works are here. But the 25 Dec. & ∑ salvador-dali.org
27 77. Open Tue–Sun. Closed 1 & 6
Jan, 25 & 26 Dec. & 7 8 by appt.
∑ museuart.com The Art of Dalí
This former episcopal palace Salvador Dalí i Domènech was born in Figueres in
is one of Catalonia’s best art 1904 and mounted his first exhibition at the age
galleries, with works ranging of 15. After studying at the Escuela de Bellas Artes
from the Romanesque period in Madrid, and dabbling with Cubism,
to the 20th century. Items from Futurism and Metaphysical painting, the
churches destroyed through war young artist embraced Surrealism in 1929,
or neglect give an idea of church becoming the movement’s best-known
interiors long ago. Highlights are painter. Never far from controversy, the
self-publicist Dalí became famous for his
10th-century carvings, a silver- hallucinatory images – such as Woman –
clad altar from the church at Animal Symbiosis – which he described as “hand-painted dream
Sant Pere de Rodes and a 12th- photographs”. Dalí’s career also included writing and film-making,
century beam from Cruïlles. and established him as one of the 20th century’s greatest artists.
He died in his home town in 1989.
E Museu d’Història
de Girona
Carrer de la Força 27. Tel 972 22 22 29.
Open 10:30am–6:30pm Tue–Sat (to
5:30pm Oct–Apr), 10:30am–1:30pm
Sun. &
This museum is housed in a
former convent. Parts of the
cemetery are preserved, including
the recesses where the bodies of
members of the Capuchin Order
were placed while decomposing.
The col lection includes old Ceiling fresco in the Wind Palace Room, Teatre-Museu Dalí
Sardana (see p229) instruments.




218-219_EW_Spain.indd 219 26/09/17 11:01 am

220  EASTERN SP AIN


t Cadaqués
Girona. * 3,000. @ n Carrer
Cotxe 1, 972 25 83 15. ( Mon.
_ Festa Major de Verano (first
week of Sep), Santa Esperança
(18 Dec). ∑ visitcadaques.org
This whitewashed town is over­
looked by the Baroque Església
de Santa Maria. Perched at the
tip of the remote Cap de Creus
headland, in the 1960s Cadaqués
was dubbed the “St Tropez of
Spain”, due to the young crowd
that sought out Salvador Dalí in
nearby Port Lligat. The house
where he lived from 1930 until Looking south along the Costa Brava from Tossa de Mar
his death in 1989 is known as
the Casa-Museu Salvador Dalí. the new town (Neapolis); and i Tossa de Mar
Visitors can see the painter’s the Roman town. The old town Girona. * 5,500. @ n Avinguda
workshop, the library, private was found ed by the Greeks in Pelegrí 25, 972 34 01 08. ( Thu.
bedrooms, garden area and 600 BC as a trading port. It was _ Festa Major d’Hivern (22 Jan),
swimming pool. Advanced built on what was a small island, Festa Major d’Estiu (29 Jun–2 Jul).
booking is required. and is now the site of the hamlet ∑ infotossa.com
of Sant Martí de Empúries. In 550
E Casa-Museu Salvador Dalí BC this was replaced by a town At the end of a corniche, the
Port Lligat. Tel 972 25 10 15. Reserv a­ on the shore which the Greeks Roman town of Turissa is one
tions required, email pll@fundacio named Emporion, meaning of the prettiest along the Costa
dali.org Open Tue–Sun (mid­Jun– “trading place”. In 218 BC, the Brava. Above the New Town
mid­Sep: daily). Closed 1 Jan, 7 Jan– Romans landed at Empúries and is the Vila Vella (Old Town), a
early Feb, 25 Dec. & ∑ salvador- built a city next to the new town. protected national monument.
dali.org
A nearby museum exhibits In the old town, the Museu
some of the site’s finds, but the Municipal has a collection
best are in Barcelona’s Museu of local archaeological finds
y Empúries Arqueològic (see p176). and modern art including
Girona. @ L’Escala. Tel 972 77 59 76. The Celestial Violinist, by the
Open from 10am, closing time varies artist Marc Chagall.
with season; check website. & ruins. u Peratallada
8 25 Jun–15 Sep: 11:30am daily. Girona. * 188. n Plaça del Castell 3 E Museu Municipal
∑ mac.cat Plaça Pintor Roig i Soler 1. Tel 972
(872 98 70 30). _ Fira de les Herbes 34 07 09. Open Jun–Sep: daily. &
(last week end in Apr or first in May),
The ruins of this Greco­Roman Festa Major (6 & 7 Aug), Medieval
town (see p55) are dramatically Market (first weekend in Oct).
located overlooking the sea. ∑ forallac.cat o Blanes
Three settlements were built Girona. * 40,000. £ @
between the 7th and 3rd centu­ This tiny village is stunning and n Plaça de Catalunya s/n, 972 33
ries BC: the old town (Palaiapolis); only a short inland trip from the 03 48. ( Mon. _ El Bilar (6 Apr),
Costa Brava. With Pals and Palau Sta Ana (late Jul). ∑ visitblanes.net
Sator it forms part of the “Golden
Triangle” of medieval villages. The working port of Blanes
Its mountaintop position has one of the longest beaches
gives some dramatic views of on the Costa Brava, but the
the area. A labyrinth of cobbled highlight of the town is the
streets wind up to the well­ Jardí Botànic Marimurtra. These
conserved castle and lookout fine gardens, designed by Karl
tower, whose written records Faust in 1928, are spec tacularly
date from the 11th century. Both sited above cliffs. There are
counts and kings made doubly 7,000 species of Med iterranean
sure of fending off any attackers and tropical plants.
by construct ing a sturdy wall
enclosing the entire village that Y Jardí Botànic Marimurtra
even today limits the nucleus Passeig Carles Faust 9. Tel 972 33 08 26.
An excavated Roman pillar in the ruins from further expansion, ensuring Open daily. Closed 1 & 6 Jan, 24 & 25
of Empúries it retains its medieval character. Dec. & 7 ∑ marimurtra.cat
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp565–7 and pp588–90


220-221_EW_Spain.indd 220 26/09/17 11:53 am

C A T AL ONIA  221


The Costa Brava

The Costa Brava (“wild coast”) runs for some 200 km (125 miles) from Blanes northwards
to the region of Empordà (Ampurdán), which borders France. It is a mix of pine-backed
sandy coves, golden beaches and crowded, modern resorts. The busiest resorts – Lloret
de Mar, Tossa de Mar and La Platja d’Aro – are to the south. Sant Feliu de Guíxols and
Palamós are still working towns behind the summer rush. Just inland there are medieval
villages to explore, such as Peralada, Peratallada and Pals. Wine, olives and fishing were
the mainstays of the area before the tourists came in the 1960s.

Llançà
Port de la Selva Cap de
N260 Creus
Parc Natural del Roses lies at
Peralada Cap de Creus the head of a
Cadaqués sweeping bay. Its
sandy beach, the
Castelló C260 Roses long est on the Costa
Cadaqués retains an air of d'Empúries Brava, has become a
seclusion, as it is accessible only mecca for lovers of
by a steep road. It has an arty Fortià Empuriabrava water sports.
atmosphere and its small, stony Parc Natural
beaches remain unspoiled and dels Aiguamolls
less crowded than others. de l’Empordà L’Escala is a small
resort, popular mainly
with local tourists.
It has fine beaches
C31
L’Escala and a small port
Punta where fishing nets
del Milà dry in the sun.
L'Estartit
Begur is a hilltop
Illes Medes
Riu Ter town just inland.
Torroella
L’Estartit is a good base for the Illes de Montgrí It has good views of
the coast, and small
Medes, a former pirates’ lair, which C31 coves are tucked
now form a marine reserve with at its feet.
clear waters perfect for skin diving. Peratallada
Pals Begur
Palamós is a working port with modern hotels C66 Llafranc, a white-
to the south, and secluded beaches and coves washed resort, with a
lapped by clear water to the north. Palafrugell promenade leading to
Llafranc neighbouring Calella, is
C31 one of the coast’s most
La Platja d’Aro’s long and sandy Calella de pleasant resorts.
Palafrugell
beach is lined with modern hotel
blocks. It is one of the most popular Palamós
resorts on the coast.
C31
Tossa de Mar has a Llagostera Platja d’Aro
golden beach and a S’Agaró
small cove beneath C35
the fortified Sant Feliu
Old Town. de Guíxols
Tossa de Mar
C63
Tordera Lloret de Mar Lloret de Mar has more
hotels than anywhere else
Blanes 0 kilometres 10 on the coast. But there are
unspoiled beaches nearby,
Malgrat de Mar 0 miles 10 such as Santa Cristina.



220-221_EW_Spain.indd 221 26/09/17 11:53 am

222  EASTER n S p AI n

p Monestir de Montserrat

The “Serrated Mountain” (mont serrat), its highest peak
rising to 1,236 m (4,055 ft), is a magnificent setting for
Catalonia’s holiest place, the Monastery of Montserrat,
which is surrounded by chapels and hermits’ caves.
A chapel was first mentioned in the 9th century, the
monastery was founded in the 11th century and in
1811, when the French attacked Catalonia in the War of
Independence (see p67), it was destroyed and the monks
killed. Rebuilt and repopulated in 1844, it was a beacon of
Catalan culture during the Franco years. Today Benedictine
monks live here. Visitors can hear the Escolania singing the
Salve Regina and the Virolai (Marian and Montserrat hymns)
in the basilica at 1pm and 7pm Monday to Friday, 6:45pm
Monday to Thursday and noon and 6:45pm on Sundays,
except in the summer and during the Christmas period.

The Way of the Cross
This path passes 11 statues
representing the Stations of
the Cross. It begins near
the Plaça de l’Abat Oliba.













KEY
1 Funicular to the holy site
of Santa Cova
2 The Museum has a collection
of 19th- and 20th-century Catalan
paintings and many Italian and
French works. It also displays
liturgical items from the Holy Land.
3 Plaça de Santa Maria’s
focal points are two wings of the
Gothic cloister built in 1476. The
modern monastery façade is by
Françesc Folguera.
4 Gothic cloister
5 The Black Virgin (La Moreneta)
looks down from behind the altar.
Protected behind glass, her wooden
orb protrudes for pilgrims to touch.
6 The rack railway (La Cremallera),
follows the course of a historic rail
line built in 1880. View of Montserrat
7 Cable car to Aeri de The complex includes cafés and a hotel. A
Montserrat station second funicular transports visitors to nature
trails above the monastery.
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp565–7 and pp588–90


222-223_EW_Spain.indd 222 05/10/15 2:46 pm
Eyewitness Travel LAYERS PRINTED:
Starsight template “UK” LAYER
(Source v2.5)
Date 6th February2013
Size 125mm x 217mm

c a t al onia  223


VIsITors’ CheCklIsT
Practical Information
Montserrat, Barcelona province.
Tel 938 77 77 77.
∑ montserratvisita.com
Basilica: open 7:30am–8pm daily.
5 from 7:30am daily. 8
Museum: open 10am–5:45pm
daily. & 7 8
Transport
£ Aeri de Montserrat, then
. Basilica Façade
Agapit Vallmitjana sculpted Christ and the cable car; Monistrol­Enllaç,
apostles on the basilica’s Neo­Renaissance then La Cremallera rack railway.
@ from Barcelona.
façade. It was built in 1900 to replace the
Renais sance façade of the original church,
consecrated in 1592.












Basilica Interior
The sanctuary in the domed
basilica is adorned by a richly
enamelled altar and paintings
by Catalan artists.















. The Virgin of Montserrat
The small wooden statue of La Moreneta (the
dark one) is the soul of Montserrat. It is said to
have been made by St Luke and brought here
by St Peter in AD 50. Centuries later, the statue
is believed to have been hidden from the
Moors in the nearby Santa Cova (Holy Cave).
Carbon dating suggests, however, that the Inner Courtyard
statue was carved around the 12th century. On one side of the courtyard is
In 1881 Montserrat’s Black Virgin became the baptistry (1958), with sculp­
patroness of Catalonia.
tures by Carles Collet. Pilgrims
The blackened Virgin of Montserrat may approach the Virgin through
a door to the right.




222-223_EW_Spain.indd 223 05/10/15 2:46 pm

224  EASTERN SP AIN

a Vic
Barcelona. * 43,200. £ @
n Plaça del Pes, 93 886 20 91.
( Tue, Sat & Sun. _ Mercat del
Ram (Sat before Easter), Sant Miquel
(28 Jun–7 Jul), Música Viva (mid-Sep),
Mercat Medieval (early Dec).
∑ victurisme.cat
Market days are the best time to
go to this small country town.
This is when the renowned local
sausages (embotits) are piled
high in the large Gothic Plaça
Major, along with other produce
from the surrounding plains. Cardona dominating the surrounding area from its hilltop site
In the 3rd century BC Vic was
the capital of an ancient Iberian E Museu Episcopal d Solsona
Plaça Bisbe Oliba. Tel 938 86 93 60.
tribe, the Ausetans. The town was Open Tue–Sun. Closed 1 & 6 Jan, Lleida. * 9,200. @ n Carretera de
then colonized by the Romans – Easter Sun, 25 & 26 Dec. 7 & 8 Bassella 1, 973 48 23 10. ( Tue & Fri.
the remains of a Roman temple ∑ museuepiscopalvic.com _ Carnival (Feb); Corpus Christi
survive today. Since the 6th (May/Jun), Festa Major (early Sep).
century the town has been a ∑ solsonaturisme.com
bishop’s see. In the 11th century, s Cardona
Abbot Oliva commissioned the Barcelona. * 4,800. @ n Avinguda Nine towers and three gate ways
El Cloquer tower, around which Rastrillo, 93 869 27 98. ( Sun. remain of Solsona’s fortifications.
the cathedral was built in the _ Festa Major (2nd last Sun of Sep). Inside the walls is an ancient
18th century. The interior of the ∑ cardonaturisme.cat town of noble mansions. The
cathedral is covered with vast cathedral has a black stone
murals by Josep Maria Sert The 13th-century castle of the Virgin. The Museu Diocesà
(1876–1945). They are painted dukes of Cardona, constables to i Comarcal contains
in reds and golds, and rep resent the crown of Aragón, is set on Romanesque paint ings
scenes from the Bible. the top of a hill. The castle was and archaeological finds.
Adjacent to the cathedral is rebuilt in the 18th century and is
the Museu Episcopal de Vic, now a parador. Beside the castle E Museu Diocesà i Comarcal
which has one of the best is an early 11th-century church, Plaça Palau 1. Tel 973 48 21 01. Open
collections of Romanesque the Església de Sant Vicenç, Tue–Sun. Closed 1 Jan, 25 & 26 Dec. 7
artifacts in Catalonia. Its large where the dukes are buried.
display of mainly religious art The castle gives views of the
and relics includes bright, town below and of the Mon- f Lleida
simple murals and wooden tanya de Sal (Salt Mountain), Lleida. * 138,400. £ @ n Carrer
sculptures from rural churches. a huge salt deposit beside the Major 31 bis, 973 70 03 19. ( Thu &
Also on display are 11th- and Riu Cardener which has been Sat. _ Sant Anastasi (11 May), Sant
12th-century frescoes. mined since Roman times. Miquel (29 Sep). ∑ lleidaturisme.cat
Dominating Lleida (Lérida),
the capital of Catalonia’s only
landlocked province, is La Suda,
a large fort taken from the
Moors in 1149. Within its walls is
the old cathedral, La Seu Vella,
founded in 1203, which was
transformed into barracks by
Felipe V in 1707 but still retains
its beautiful cloister and Gothic
rose window. After years of
neglect, the fort complex has
been restored and now offers
panoramic viewpoints.
A lift descends from the Seu
Vella to the Plaça de Sant Joan
in the town below. This square is
at the midpoint of a busy street
Twelfth-century altar frontal, Museu Episcopal de Vic sweeping round the foot of the
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp565–7 and pp588–90


224-225_EW_Spain.indd 224 26/09/17 11:01 am
Eyewitness Travel LAYERS PRINTED:
Catalogue template “UK” LAYER
(Source v2.1)
Date 5th December 2012
Size 125mm x 217mm

C A T AL ONIA  225


hill. The new cathedral is here, de les Monges and Poblet
as are manorial build ings such (see pp226–7), are nearby. The
as the rebuilt 13th-century Monestir de Santes Creus was
town hall, the Paeria. founded in 1150 by Ramón
Berenguer IV (see p58) during his
reconquest of Catalonia. The
g Poblet Gothic clois ters are decorated
with figu rative sculptures, a
See pp226–7.
style first permitted by Jaime II,
who ruled from 1291 to 1327.
h Montblanc His finely carved tomb, along
with that of other nobles, is in
Tarragona. * 7,300. £ @ n Antiga the 12th-century church.
Església de Sant Francesc, 977 86 17
33. ( Tue, Fri. _ Setmana Medieval R Monestir de Santes Creus
(2 weeks in Apr), Festa Major (8–9 Sep).
∑ montblancmedieval.org Tel 977 63 83 29. Open Tue–Sun.
Closed 1 & 6 Jan, 25 & 26 Dec.
The medieval grandeur of & 8 7
Montblanc lives on within its
walls, said to be Catalonia’s k Vilafranca del
finest piece of military archi-
tecture. At the Sant Jordi gate, Penedès
St George allegedly slew the Barcelona. * 38,700. £ @
dragon. The Museu Comarcal n Carrer Cort 14, 93 818 12 54.
de la Conca de Barberà has ( Sat. _ Festa Major (29 Aug–
displays on local crafts. 2 Sep). ∑ turismevilafranca.cat
Anxaneta climbing to the top of a
E Museu Comarcal de la This busy market town is tower of castellers
Conca de Barberà set in Catalonia’s main wine-
Carrer Josa 6. Tel 977 86 03 49. producing region (see pp206–7). Catalonia’s Festes
Open Tue–Sun & public hols. & The Vinseum (Wine Museum),
in a 14th-century palace, Human Towers (various dates
and locations). The province
documents the history of the
j Santes Creus area’s wine trade. Local bodegas of Tarragona is famous for its
castellers festivals, where
Tarragona. * 150. @ n Plaça can be visited for wine tasting. teams of men stand on each
Jaume el Just (Monestir) s/n, 977 63 Eight km (5 miles) to the other’s shoulders in an effort
81 41. ( Sat & Sun. _ Sta Llúcia north is Sant Sadurní, the capital to build the highest human
(13 Dec). ∑ larutadelcister.info of Spain’s sparkling tower. Each tower, which can
wine, cava (see pp580–81). be up to seven people high,
Home to the prettiest of the is topped by a small child
“Cistercian triangle” monasteries E Vinseum called the anxaneta. Castellers
is the tiny village of Santes Plaça Jaume I. Tel 93 890 05 82. can be seen in action in many
Creus. The other two, Vallbona Open Tue–Sun & public hols. & towns, especially Vilafranca
del Penedès and Valls.
Dance of Death (Maundy
Thu), Verges (Girona). Men
dressed as skeletons per form
a macabre dance.
St George’s Day (23 Apr).
Lovers give each other a
rose and a book on the day
of Catalonia’s patron saint.
The book is in memory of
Cervantes, who died on this
day in 1616.
La Patum (Corpus Christi,
May/Jun), Berga (Barce lona
province). Giants, devils and
bizarre monsters parade
through the town.
Midsummer’s Eve (23 Jun).
Celebrated all over Catalonia
with bonfires and fireworks.
Monestir de Santes Creus, surrounded by poplar and hazel trees




224-225_EW_Spain.indd 225 26/09/17 11:01 am

226  EASTER n SP AI n

g Monestir de Poblet

The Monastery of Santa Maria de Poblet is a haven of tranquillity
and a resting place of kings. It was the first and most important
of three Cistercian monas teries, known as the “Cistercian triangle”
(see p225), that helped to consolidate power in Catalonia after it
had been recaptured from the Moors by Ramon Berenguer IV.
The monastery was abandoned and fell into disrepair as a result
of the Ecclesiastical Confiscations Act of 1835. Restoration, now
largely com plete, began in 1930 and monks returned in 1940.

Library
The Gothic scriptorium was
converted into a library in
the 17th century, when the
Cardona family donated its
book collection.








KEY
1 Royal doorway
2 4 Museum
3 Wine cellar
5 Former kitchen
6 The 12th-century refectory is
a vaulted hall with an octagonal
fountain and a pulpit.
7 The dormitory is reached by
stairs from the church. The vast
87-m (285-ft) gallery dates from
the 13th century.
8 San Esteve cloister
9 Parlour cloister
0 New sacristy
q The Abbey Church, large and
unadorned, with three naves, is a
typical Cistercian building.
w Baroque church façade



1150 Santes Creus founded – the third abbey Royal tombs
in the “Cistercian triangle”
14th century Main cloister finished
1156 Founding of
monastery at Vallbona 1479 Juan II, last king of 1940 Monks
de les Monges Aragón, buried here return
1100 1300 1500 1700 1900
1196 Alfonso 1952 Tombs
II is the first 1336–87 Reign of Pere the Ceremonious, who reconstructed.
king to be designates Poblet a royal pantheon Royal remains
buried here returned
1150 Poblet monastery founded 1835 Disentailment of
by Ramón Berenguer IV monasteries. Poblet ravaged
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp565–7 and pp588–90


226-227_EW_Spain.indd 226 05/10/15 2:46 pm
Eyewitness Travel LAYERS PRINTED:
Starsight template “UK” LAYER
(Source v2.5)
Date 6th February2013
Size 125mm x 217mm

c a t al onia  227

Chapterhouse
This perfectly square VisiToRs’ CheCklisT
room, with slender
columns, has tiers of Practical Information
benches for the monks. Off N240, 10 km (6 miles) from
It is paved with the Montblanc, Tarragona. Tel 977 87
tombstones of 11 00 89. open 10am–12:30pm (to
abbots who died 12:25 Sun), 3–5:25pm or 5:55pm
between 1312 daily. Closed 1 Jan, 25 & 26 Dec.
and 1623. & 8 5 8am Mon–Sat, 10am,
1pm & 6pm Sun & pub hols. ^
- _ Festival Música Antigua
(mid-Aug). ∑ poblet.cat
Transport
£ L’Espluga de Francolí, then
taxi. @ Tarragona.

















. Altarpiece
Behind the stone altar, supported
by Romanesque columns, an
impressive alabaster reredos fills
the apse. It was carved by Damià
Forment in 1527.
















. Royal Tombs
The tombs in the pantheon of
kings were begun in 1359.
. Cloisters In 1950 the sculptures were
The evocative, vaulted restored by Frederic Marès.
cloisters were built in the
12th and 13th centuries and
were the centre of monastic
life. The capitals are
beautifully decorated with
carved scrollwork.




226-227_EW_Spain.indd 227 05/10/15 2:46 pm

228  EASTERN SP AIN




















Palm trees lining the waterfront at Sitges
l Sitges famous cellist. Port Aventura, Roman past. As the capital of
south of Tarragona, is one of Tarraconensis, the Romans used
Barcelona. * 28,500. £ @ n Plaça
Eduard Maristany 2, 93 894 42 51. ( Europe’s largest theme parks it as a base for the con quest
Thu. _ Carnival (Feb–Mar), Festa and has many exotically themed of the peninsula in the 3rd
Major (22–27 Aug). ∑ sitgestur.cat attractions, such as Polynesia and century BC (see pp54–5).
Wild West. Cambrils and Salou The avenue of Rambla Nova
There are no less than nine are the liveliest resorts – the rest ends on the clifftop Balcó de
beaches to choose from at this are low­key, family holiday spots. Europa, in sight of the ruins
seaside town. It has a reputa tion of the Amfiteatre Romà and
as a gay resort but is just as E Museu Pau Casals the ruined 12th­century church
popular with all. Lively bars and Avinguda Palfuriana 67. of Santa Maria del Miracle.
restaurants line its main boule­ Tel 977 68 42 76. Open Tue–Sun. & Nearby is the Praetorium,
vard, the Passeig Marítim, and  Port Aventura a Roman tower that was
there are many examples of Avinguda de l’Alcalde Pere Molas, converted into a palace in
Modernista architecture among km 2, Vila­seca. Tel 902 20 22 20. medieval times. It now houses
the 1970s apartment blocks. Open spring–6 Jan. & 7 the Pretori i Circ Romans. This
Modernista artist Santiago displays Roman and medieval
Rusiñol (1861–1931) spent much finds, and gives access to the
time here and be queathed his x Tarragona caver nous passageways of the
quirky collection of ceramics, Tarragona. * 131,000. ~ £ @ excavated Roman circus, built
sculptures, paint ing and ornate n Carrer Major 39, 977 25 07 95. in the 1st century AD. Next to
ironwork to the Museu Cau ( Tue, Thu & Sun. _ Sant Magí the Praetorium is the Museu
Ferrat. It lies next to Sitges’s (19 Aug), Santa Tecla (23 Sep). Nacional Arqueològic,
landmark, the 17th­century ∑ tarragonaturisme.cat containing the most important
church of Sant Bartomeu i Santa collection of Roman artifacts in
Tecla, which juts out proudly Tarragona is now a major Catalonia. It has an extensive
on a promontory. industrial port, but it has collection of bronze tools and
preserved many remnants of its beautiful mosaics, including a
E Museu Cau Ferrat
Carrer Fonollar. Tel 938 94 03 64.
Open Tue–Sun. & 8

z Costa Daurada
Tarragona. £ @ Calafell, Sant Vicenç
de Calders, Salou. n Tarragona, 977
23 03 12. ∑ costadaurada.info
The long, sandy beaches of the
Costa Daurada (Golden Coast)
run along the shores of Tarragona
province. El Vendrell is one of the
area’s active ports. The Museu
Pau Casals in Sant Salvador
(El Vendrell) is dedi cated to the The remains of the Roman amphitheatre, Tarragona
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp565–7 and pp588–90


228-229_EW_Spain.indd 228 26/09/17 11:01 am
Eyewitness Travel LAYERS PRINTED:
Catalogue template “UK” LAYER
(Source v2.1)
Date 5th December 2012
Size 125mm x 217mm

C A T AL ONIA  229


Head of Medusa. Among the c Tortosa v Delta de L’Ebre
most impressive remains are Tarragona. * 33,700. n Rambla Tarragona. £ Aldea. @ Deltebre,
the huge Pre-Roman stones on Felip Pedrell 3, 977 44 96 48. ( Mon. Aldea. n Deltebre, 977 48 93 09.
which the Roman wall is built. _ Nostra Senyora de la Cinta (Aug/ ∑ turismedeltebre.com
An archaeological walk stretches Sep). ∑ tortosaturisme.cat
1 km (half a mile) along the wall. The delta of the Riu Ebre is a
Behind the wall lies the 12th- A ruined castle and medieval prosperous rice-growing region
century cathedral, built on the walls are clues to Tortosa’s and wildlife haven. Some
site of a Roman temple. This historical importance. Sited at 70 sq km (27 sq miles) have
evolved over many centuries, as the lowest crossing point on the been turned into a nature
seen from the blend Riu Ebre (Río Ebro), reserve, the Parc Natural del
of styles of the it has been strategi- Delta de L’Ebre. In Deltebre
exterior. Inside is an cally significant since there is an information centre
alabaster altarpiece Iberian times. The and an interesting Eco-Museu,
of St Tecla, carved by Moors held the city with an aquarium containing
Pere Joan in 1434. The from the 8th century species found in the delta.
13th-century cloister until 1148. The old The main towns in the area
has Gothic vaulting, Moorish castle, known are Amposta and Sant Carles de
but the doorway as La Zuda, is all that la Ràpita, both of which serve
is Romanesque. remains of their as good bases for exploring
To the west of defences. It has the reserve.
town is a 3rd- to been renovated The best sites for seeing
6th-century Chris- as a parador. The wildlife are along the shore,
tian cemetery, Moors also built from the Punta del Fangar in the
the Necròpolis Ruins of the Necropolis a mosque in 914. north to the Punta de la Banya
Paleocristiana i Paleocristiana, Tarragona Its foundations in the south. Every where is
Conjunt Paleocristià were used for accessible by car except Illa de
del Francolí. the cathedral, on which work Buda. Flamingoes breed on this
began in 1347. Although not island, and other waterbirds,
Environs completed for 200 years, the such as avocets, can be seen
The Aqüeducte de les Ferreres style is Gothic. from tourist boats that leave
lies just outside the city, next Tortosa was badly damaged from Riumar and Deltebre.
to the A7 motorway. This in 1938–9 during one of the
2nd-century aqueduct was built fiercest battles of the Civil War E Eco-Museu
to bring water to the city from (see pp68–71), when the Ebre Carrer Doctor Martí Buera 22. Tel 977
the Riu Gaià, 30 km (19 miles) formed the front line between 48 96 79. Open Tue–Sun. Closed 1 & 6
to the north. The Arc de Berà, the opposing forces. Jan, 25 & 26 Dec. & 7 8
a 1st-century triumphal arch on
the Via Augusta, is 20 km (12
miles) northeast on the N340. The Sardana
The bustling, provincial Catalonia’s national dance is more complicated than it appears.
town of Reus lies inland from The success of the Sardana depends on all of the dancers accurately
Tarragona. Although its airport counting the complicated short- and long-step skips and jumps,
serves the Costa Daurada, it is which accounts for their serious faces. Music is provided by a cobla,
often overlooked by holiday- an 11-person band consisting of a leader playing a three-holed flute
makers. However there is some (flabiol) and a little drum (tabal), five woodwind players and five brass
fine Modernista architecture players. When the music starts, dancers join hands and form circles.
to be seen here, notably some The Sardana is performed during most local fiestas (see p225) and at
early work by Antoni Gaudí special day-long gatherings called aplecs.
who was born in Reus. The
Pere Mata Psychiatric Institute
was designed by Domènech
i Montaner before his master-
piece, the Hospital de la Santa
Creu i de Sant Pau (see p169).
E Pretori i Circ Romans
Plaça del Rei. Tel 977 22 17 36.
Open Tue–Sun. &
E Museu Nacional Arqueològic
de Tarragona
Plaça del Rei 5. Tel 977 23 62 09.
Open Tue–Sun. & (senior citizens A group of Sardana dancers captured in stone
and under 18s free). 7 ∑ mnat.es




228-229_EW_Spain.indd 229 26/09/17 11:01 am

230-231_EW_Spain.indd 230 26/09/17 11:01 am
Eyewitness Travel LAYERS PRINTED:
Regional intro template V2 “UK” LAYER
(OpenType)
Date 8th December 2005
Size 125mm x 217mm

EASTERN SP AIN  231
ARAGÓN


Zaragoza • Huesca • Teruel

Stretching almost half the length of Spain, and
bisected by the Ebro, one of the country’s longest
rivers, Aragón takes in a wide variety of scenery, from
the snowcapped summits of Ordesa National Park in
the Pyrenees to the dry plains of the Spanish interior.
This largely unsung and undervisited region contains
magnificent Mudéjar architecture and many
unspoiled medieval towns.

From the 12th to 15th cen turies Aragón outstanding examples in the cities of
was a powerful kingdom, or (more Teruel and the capital, Zaragoza, Spain’s
accurately) a federation of states, including fifth­largest city, which stands on the
Catalonia. In its heyday, in the 13th banks of the Ebro.
century, its dominions stretched across The highest peaks of the Pyrenees lie
the Mediter ranean as far as Sicily. By his in Huesca province. Some of the region’s
marriage to Isabel of Castile and León in finest sights are in the Pyrenean foothills,
1469, Fernando II of Aragón paved the which are crossed by the Aragonese
way for the unification of Spain. variation of the pilgrims’ route to Santiago
After the Reconquest, Muslim archi tects de Compostela. Probably the most spec­
and craftsmen were treated more toler­ tacular of them is the monastery of San
antly here than elsewhere, and they Juan de la Peña – half­concealed beneath
continued their work in the distinctive a rock overhang – which was founded in
Mudéjar style, building with elaborate the 9th century.
brickwork and patterned ceramic The climate of the region varies as
decoration. Their work can be seen in much as the landscape: winters can be
churches all over Aragón and there are long and harsh and summers hot.


























A view of the rooftops and medieval walls of Daroca
Moorish arches inside the Aljafería Palace, Zaragoza



230-231_EW_Spain.indd 231 26/09/17 11:01 am

232  EASTERN SP AIN

Exploring Aragón

The landscapes of Aragón range from the high Pyrenees, Lourdes
north of Huesca, through the desiccated terrain around PUERTO DE
SOMPORT
Zaragoza to the forested hills of Teruel province. The cities of Ansó Hecho Monte Perdido Pico de Aneto
Teruel and Zaragoza have some of the most striking Mudéjar Sigüés LOS VALLES Torla- 3355m Bielsa 3404m
monuments in Spain and there are many small, picturesque JACA Ordesa
preserved towns in the region. Ordesa National Park contains Embalse Sabiñánigo PARQUE NAC. BENASQUE
DE ORDESA
stunning mountain scenery, but it can only be visited fully SOS DEL REY de Yesa Castejon
after the snow melts in spring, and even then much of it has CATÓLICO MONASTERIO DE SAN Boltaña de Sós
to be explored on foot. Pretty Los Valles offers less dramatic Uncastillo JUAN DE LA PEÑA AÍNSA Campo
but equally enjoyable landscapes and is a popular tourist AGÜERO Arguís Ésera Roda de
destination. Other attractive places include the impressively Sádaba CASTILLO Sierra de Guara Isábena
SANTUARIO DE
sited Castillo de Loarre and Monasterio de San Juan de la DE LOARRE TORRECIUDAD GRAUS
Peña, and the waterfalls of Monasterio de Piedra. Ardisa
Valareña ALQUÉZAR
HUESCA
Ejea de los Angüés Benabarre
Caballeros Almudévar
Barbastro
Burgos Gállego Grañén Huerto Cinca
TARAZONA Tauste Tardienta Monzón
Gallur Zuera Flumen Tamarite
de Litera
Parque Leciñena Alcubierre Sariñena Binéfar
Natural de
Moncayo MONASTERIO
DE VERUELA Alagón ARAGÓN
Ontineña
Tierga ZARAGOZA Lleida
Épila Barcelona
Torrelapaja Huerva Fraga
La Almunia de Doña Godina Pina de Ebro Bujaraloz
CALATAYUD FUENDETODOS Quinto Ebro Embalse de Mequinenza
Ariza Ateca Mequinenza
Cariñena Belchite
Jalón Escatrón
Azaila Fayón
Madrid Caspe
Herrera Híjar
MONASTERIO DAROCA Martín Maella
DE PIEDRA
Muniesa ALCAÑIZ
The Puerto de Somport, near Panticosa Jiloca Andorra
Oliete Calanda Valjunquera
Calamocha Segura de
los Baños
Caminreal VALDERROBRES
Montalbán Castellote
Sights at a Glance Monreal Ejulve Monroyo
1 Sos del Rey Católico t Tarazona del Campo Rillo Guadalope
2 Los Valles y Monasterio de Veruela Perales del Aliaga
Alfambra
3 Puerto de Somport u Zaragoza Camarillas
4 Parque Nacional de i Calatayud Orihuela del Alfambra Mirambel
Ordesa pp236–7 o Monasterio de Piedra Tremedal Cantavieja
5 Benasque p Daroca Cella SIERRA DE GÚDAR
6 Ainsa a Fuendetodos ALBARRACÍN Peñarroya
2019m
7 Jaca s Alcañiz TERUEL Alcalá de
8 Monasterio de San Juan d Valderrobres Montes la Selva
de la Peña f Sierra de Gúdar Universales La Puebla de
Valverde
9 Agüero g Mora de Rubielos MORA DE RUBIELOS
0 Castillo de Loarre h Teruel Sarrión Rubielos de Mora
q Huesca j Albarracín RINCÓN DE
w Alquézar k Rincón de Ademuz ADEMUZ
e Santuario de Torreciudad
r Graus Valencia
For keys to symbols see back flap
232-233_EW_Spain.indd 232 26/09/17 11:53 am

AR A GÓN  233


Getting Around
Zaragoza is linked by motorway
Lourdes
to the Basque Country, Navarra,
PUERTO DE Madrid and Barcelona. Major
Ansó SOMPORT roads link the region’s main cities
Hecho Monte Perdido Pico de Aneto
LOS VALLES Ordesa Valencia. Many minor roads have
Sigüés 3355m Bielsa 3404m with each other, and Teruel with
Torla-
Embalse JACA Sabiñánigo PARQUE NAC. BENASQUE been improved and may be fast
and uncongested in the flatter,
de Yesa DE ORDESA
SOS DEL REY central areas. The principal railway
CATÓLICO Castejon lines run from Zaragoza to
MONASTERIO DE SAN Boltaña de Sós
JUAN DE LA PEÑA AÍNSA Madrid and Barcelona, both of
Uncastillo Campo which are linked by high-speed
AGÜERO Arguís Ésera Roda de
CASTILLO Sierra de Guara Isábena AVE trains, and to Valencia.
Sádaba DE LOARRE SANTUARIO DE GRAUS Coaches are infrequent, except
TORRECIUDAD
Ardisa between the main population
Valareña ALQUÉZAR centres. Zaragoza has a small
HUESCA international airport.
Ejea de los Angüés Benabarre
Caballeros Almudévar
Barbastro
Burgos Gállego Grañén Huerto Cinca
TARAZONA Tauste Tardienta Monzón Key
Gallur Zuera Flumen Tamarite Motorway
de Litera
Parque Leciñena Alcubierre Sariñena Binéfar
Natural de Motorway under construction
Moncayo MONASTERIO
DE VERUELA Alagón ARAGÓN Major road
Minor road
Ontineña
Tierga ZARAGOZA Lleida Scenic route
Épila Barcelona
Torrelapaja Huerva Fraga Main railway
La Almunia de Doña Godina Pina de Ebro Bujaraloz Minor railway
International border
CALATAYUD FUENDETODOS Quinto Ebro Embalse de Mequinenza Regional border
Ariza Ateca Mequinenza
Cariñena Belchite Summit
Jalón Escatrón
Azaila Fayón
Madrid Caspe
Herrera Híjar
MONASTERIO DAROCA Martín Maella
DE PIEDRA
Muniesa ALCAÑIZ
Andorra
Jiloca
Oliete Calanda Valjunquera
Calamocha Segura de
los Baños
Caminreal VALDERROBRES
Montalbán
Castellote
Monreal Rillo Ejulve Monroyo
del Campo Guadalope
Perales del Aliaga
Alfambra
Camarillas
Alfambra Mirambel
Orihuela del
Tremedal Cantavieja
Cella
ALBARRACÍN SIERRA DE GÚDAR
Peñarroya
2019m
TERUEL Alcalá de
Montes la Selva
La Puebla de
Universales
Valverde MORA DE RUBIELOS
Rubielos de Mora
Sarrión
RINCÓN DE
ADEMUZ
0 kilometres 20
Valencia 0 miles 20
Mudéjar tower of Iglesia de Santa Magdalena, Tarazona
232-233_EW_Spain.indd 233 26/09/17 11:53 am

234  EASTERN SP AIN

2 Los Valles scattered beside the tourist
information office of Hecho,
Huesca. £ Jaca. @ from Jaca
to Hecho. n Museo de Arte from an open-air festival
Contemporáneo al aire libre, previously held in the village.
Pallar d’Agustin, Hecho (Jun–Sep), The bucolic village of Siresa,
974 37 55 05. which contains the 11th-
century church of San Pedro,
The delightful valleys of Ansó lies to the north of Hecho.
and Hecho, formed by the
Veral and Aragón Subordán 3 Puerto de
rivers respectively, were once
isolated due to poor road links, Somport
enabling their villages to retain
The town hall, Sos del Rey Católico traditional customs and a local Huesca. @ Somport, Astun or Jaca.
n Pl Ayuntamiento 1, Canfranc, 974
dialect called Cheso. Now the
1 Sos del Rey area’s crafts and costumes have 37 31 41 (closed Sep–Jun: Sun & Mon).
Católico made it popular with tourists. Just inside the border with
The Pyrenean foothills and France, the Somport Pass
Zaragoza. * 650. @ n Palacio forests above the valleys are was for centuries a strategic
de Sada, Plaza Hispanidad s/n, 948 88 good for walking, fishing and crossing point for the Romans
85 24 (closed Mon). ( Fri. _ Fiesta cross-country skiing. and Moors, and for medieval
Mayor (third week of Aug). 8 to Ansó lies in the prettiest pilgrims en route to Santiago de
Palacio de Sada. ∑ oficinaturismo valley, which becomes a Compostela (see pp86–7). Today
sosdelreycatolico.com
shadowy gorge where the the austere scenery is specked
Fernando of Aragón – the Río Veral and the road next to with holiday apart ments built
so-called “Catholic King” who it squeeze between vertical for skiing. Astún is modern
married Isabel of Castile, thereby crags and through rock tunnels. and well organized, while El
uniting Spain (see pp60–61) – was Many of its buildings have Formigal, to the east, is a stylish,
born in this small town in 1452, stone façades and steep, tiled purpose-built resort. Non-skiers
thus its distinguished royal name. roofs. The Gothic church can enjoy the scenery around
The Palacio de Sada, the (16th century) has a museum the Panticosa gorge. Sallent
king’s reputed birthplace, with dedicated to local costume. de Gállego is popular for rock
a beautiful inner courtyard, is Pieces of modern sculpture lie climbing and fishing.
among the town’s grandest
stone mansions. It stands in a
small square amid a maze of
narrow cobbled streets. At the
top of the town are the rem nants
of a castle and the Iglesia de San
Esteban. The church’s font and
carved capitals are note worthy,
as are the 13th-century frescoes
in two of the crypt’s apses. From
here there are fine views over
the surrounding hills.
The Gothic-arched Lonja
(commodities exchange) and
the 16th-century town hall
(ayuntamiento) are located
on the adjacent main square.
Environs
The “Cinco Villas” are five towns
recognized by Felipe V for their
loyalty during the War of the
Spanish Succes sion (see p66).
Sos del Rey Católico is the
most appealing of these. The
others are Ejea de los Caballeros,
Tauste, Sádaba and Uncastillo.
The latter, 20 km (12 miles) to
the southeast, has a fortress
and a Romanesque church,
the Iglesia de Santa María. Steep, tiled roofs of Hecho, with a typical pepper-pot chimney
For hotels and restaurants in this region see p567 and pp590–91


234-235_EW_Spain.indd 234 26/09/17 11:01 am
Eyewitness Travel LAYERS PRINTED:
Catalogue template “UK” LAYER
(Source v2.1)
Date 5th December 2012
Size 125mm x 217mm

AR A GÓN  235

7 Jaca
Huesca. * 13,000. £ @ n Plaza de
San Pedro 11, 974 36 00 98. ( Fri. _
La Victoria (first Fri of May), Santa Orosia
y San Pedro (25–29 Jun). ∑ jaca.es
Jaca dates back as far as the 2nd
century AD. In the 8th century
the town bravely re pulsed the
Moors – an act which is
commemorated in the festival
of La Victoria – and in 1035
became the first capi tal of the
kingdom of Aragón. Jaca’s
11th-century cathedral,
one of Spain’s old est, is
much altered inside.
Traces of its original
Rough and craggy landscape around Benasque splendour can
be seen on the
4 Parque Nacional neighbouring resort of Aramón restored south
de Ordesa Cerler was developed with porch and
care from a rustic village into doorway, where
See pp236–7. a popular base for skiing and carvings depict
other winter sports. biblical scenes.
At Castejón de Sos, 14 km The dim nave
5 Benasque (9 miles) south of Benasque, and chapels are
the road passes through the decorated with
Huesca. * 2,000. n Calle de San
Pedro s/n, 974 55 12 89. ( Tue. Congosto de Ventamillo, a scenic ornate vaulting
_ San Pedro (29 Jun), San Marcial rocky gorge. and sculpture.
(30 Jun). ∑ turismobenasque.com A museum of
sacred art, in
Tucked away in the northeast 6 Aínsa the cloisters,
corner of Aragón, at the head Huesca. * 2,200. @ n Plaza contains a
of the Esera Valley, the village Castillo 1, 974 50 05 12. ( Tue. collection of
of Benasque presides over a _ San Sebastián (20 Jan), Fiesta Romanesque Sculpture in
ruggedly beautiful stretch of Mayor (14 Sep). and Gothic Jaca Cathedral
Pyrenean scenery. Although fres coes and
the village has expanded greatly The capital of the kingdom of sculptures from
to meet the holiday trade, a Sobrarbe in medieval times, local churches. The streets
sympathetic use of wood and Ainsa has retained its charm. that sur round the cathedral
stone has resulted in buildings The Plaza Mayor, a broad form an attractive quarter.
which complement the existing cobbled square, is sur rounded Jaca’s only other significant
older houses. A stroll through by neat terraced arcades of tourist sight is its 16th-century
the old centre filled with aristo- brown stone. On one side citadel, a fort decorated with
cratic mansions is a delight. stands the belfry of the Iglesia corner turrets, on the edge of
The most striking buildings in de Santa María – consecrated in town. Today the town serves
Benasque are the 13th-century 1181 – and on the other the as a principal base for the
Iglesia de Santa María Mayor, restored castle. Aragonese Pyrenees.
and the Palacio de los Condes
de Ribagorza. The latter has a
Renaissance façade.
Above the village rises the
Maladeta massif. There are
magnificent views from its
ski slopes and hiking trails.
Several local mountain peaks,
including Posets and Aneto,
exceed 3,000 m (9,800 ft).
Environs
For walkers, skiers and climb ers,
the area around Benasque
has a great deal to offer. The The arcaded main square of Aìnsa with the Iglesia de Santa María




234-235_EW_Spain.indd 235 26/09/17 11:01 am

236  EASTERN SP AIN

4 Parque Nacional de Ordesa

Within its borders the Parque Nacional de Ordesa
y Monte Perdido combines all the most dramatic
elements of Spain’s Pyrenean scenery. At the heart
of the park are four glacial canyons – the Ordesa,
Añisclo, Pineta and Escuain valleys – which carve
the great upland limestone massifs into spec­
tacular cliffs and chasms. Most of the park is
accessible only on foot: even then, snow during
autumn and winter makes it inaccessible to all
ex cept those with specialist climbing equipment. Valle de Ordesa
In high summer, however, the crowds testify to The Río Arazas cuts through forested
limestone escarpments, providing
the park’s well­earned reputation as a paradise some of Ordesa’s most popular walks.
for walkers and nature lovers alike.
Brecha de
EL TAILLÓN Rolando MONTE PERDIDO

3,355 M
3,144 M (11,008 FT)
(10,315 FT) Gruta de J
Casteret Refugio de Góriz
MONDARRUEGO Arazas
J
2,848 M Cascada
(9,344 FT) Cola de Caballo
Gradas
VALLE DE ORDESA
de Soaso
Cascada
Torro botera
Torla-Ordesa

Torla-Ordesa
This village, at the gateway to the park, huddles Biescas Broto
beneath the forbidding slopes of Mondarruego. Fanlo
With its core of cobbled streets and slate-roofed Buiśan
houses around the church, Torla is a popular base
for visitors to Ordesa. Oto
Sarvisé
Ara
Jalle
Pyrenean Wildlife
Ainsa
Ordesa is a spectacle of flora and fauna, with many of its species
unique to the region. Trout streams rush along the valley floor,
where slopes provide a mantle of various woodland harbouring 0 kilometres 2
creatures such as otters, marmots and capercaillies (large grouse).
On the slopes, flowers burst out before the snow melts, with 0 miles 2
gentians and orchids sheltering in crevices and edelweiss braving
the most hostile crags. Higher up,
the Pyrenean chamois is still fairly
common; but the Ordesa ibex, or Key
mountain goat, became extinct
in 2000. Attempts to resurrect it Major road
by cloning have had little success Minor road
so far. The rocky pinnacles above Footpath
the valley are the domain of birds Spanish/French border
of prey, among them the huge
bearded vulture. National park boundary

Spring gentian (Gentiana verna)
For hotels and restaurants in this region see p567 and pp590–91


236-237_EW_Spain.indd 236 26/09/17 11:53 am

AR A GÓN  237


View from Parador VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
de Bielsa
The parador, at the Practical Information
foot of Monte Perdido, n Visitors’ centre open all year
looks out at stunning (exhibition area closed in winter),
sheer rock faces Avenida Ordesa s/n, Torla-Ordesa,
streaked by waterfalls.
974 48 64 72. ∑ ordesa.net
Transport
@ change at Sabiñánigo for
Torla. £ Sabiñánigo.






Parador de Biesla
MONTE PERDIDO J
VALLE DE PINETA
3,355 M
(11,008 FT)
J Cinca
Refugio de Góriz
Bielsa
Sierra de Las Tucas
Arazas
J
Cascada
Cola de Caballo
Gradas
de Soaso Vellos
Cola de Caballo
Revilla The 70-m (230-ft) “Horse’s Tail”
waterfall makes a scenic
Escuaín Garganta de Escuan Bielsa stopping point near the
northern end of the long
Canon de Añisclo
hike around the Circo
J Tella Soaso. It provides a taste
of the spectacular
scenery found

along the route.
Nerin Bestué
Buiśan
J Vellos Puértolas
J
Hikers in Ordesa National Park
Tips for Walkers
Several well-marked trails follow the
valleys and can be easily tackled by
anyone reasonably fit, though walk-
ing boots are a must. The mountain
routes may require climbing gear, so
check first with the visitors’ centre
and get a detailed map. Pyrenean
weather changes rapidly – beware
of ice and snow early and late in
Cañon or Garganta de Añisclo the season. Overnight camping is
A wide path leads along this beautiful, steep-sided gorge, permitted, but only for a single
following the wooded course of the turbulent Río Vellos night above certain altitudes.
through dramatic limestone scenery.
For keys to symbols see back flap


236-237_EW_Spain.indd 237 26/09/17 11:53 am

238  EASTERN SP AIN


Royal
pantheon Lower
church
Capilla de San
Victorián


Cloister




Residential
quarters

Upper church
8 Monasterio de
San Juan de la Peña the Latin Mass in Spain.
Huesca. Tel 974 35 51 19. Open Nov– After a fire in the 1600s, Capilla de
Feb: 10am–2pm daily (to 5pm Sat); the building was abandoned San Voto
Mar–Oct: 10am–2pm, 3:30–7pm daily in favour of a newer one further
(to 8pm Jun–Aug). Closed 1 Jan, up the hill side. This was later
25 Dec. & 8 - ∑ monasterio sacked by Napoleon’s troops. simple triple apse hollowed
sanjuan.com It now houses a hotel and out of the side of the cliff. The
interpretation centre. Romanesque pantheon con­
Set under a bulging rock, this The church of the old monas­ tains the stacked tombs of the
monastery was an early guardian tery is on two floors. The lower early Aragonese kings. The
of the Holy Grail (see p255). In the one is a primitive rock­hewn exterior cloister is San Juan de
11th century it underwent refor­ crypt built in the early 10th la Peña’s pièce de résistance, the
mation in Cluniac style, and was century. The upper floor contains capitals of its columns carved
the first monastery to introduce an 11th­century church with a with biblical scenes.

9 Agüero This Romanesque church The lively, large­eyed figures
is reached by a long stony are attributed to the mason
Huesca. * 150. _ San Blas (3 Feb),
San Roque (16 Aug). track leading uphill just before responsible for the superb
∑ aytoaguero.es the village. carvings in the monas tery
The capitals of the columns at San Juan de la Peña.
The picturesque setting of this in this unusual triple­naved
attractive village, clus tered building are carved with fan­
against a dramatic crag of tastical beasts as well as scenes 0 Castillo de Loarre
eroded pudding stone, amply from the life of Jesus and the Loarre, Huesca. Tel 974 34 21 61. £
rewards a brief detour from Virgin Mary. The beautiful Ayerbe. @ from Huesca. Open daily.
the main road. The most carvings on the doorway dis­ Closed Nov–Feb: Mon, 1 Jan, 25 Dec.
important reason for visiting play biblical events, including & 8 ∑ castillodeloarre.es
Agüero, however, is to see the scenes from the Epiphany and
12th­century Iglesia de Santiago. Salome dancing ecstati cally. The ramparts of this fortress
stand majestically above the
road from Ayerbe. The fortress
is so closely moulded around
the contours of a rock that in
poor visibility it could be
easily mistaken for a natural
outcrop. It was used as a set
for Ridley Scott’s film Kingdom
of Heaven (2005). On a clear
day, the hill top setting is
stupendous, with clear views
of the surrounding orchards
Village of Agüero, situated under a rocky crag and reservoirs of the Ebro plain.
For hotels and restaurants in this region see p567 and pp590–91


238-239_EW_Spain.indd 238 26/09/17 11:01 am
Eyewitness Travel LAYERS PRINTED:
Catalogue template “UK” LAYER
(Source v2.1)
Date 5th December 2012
Size 125mm x 217mm

AR A GÓN  239


Inside the curtain walls lies a
complex founded in the 11th
century on the site of what
had originally been a Roman
settlement. It was later
remodelled under Sancho I
(Sancho Ramírez) of Aragón,
who established a religious
community here, placing the
complex under the rule of
the Order of St Augustine.
Within the castle walls is a
Romanesque church with
carved capitals, a chequered The formidable Castillo de Loarre looming above the surrounding area
frieze and alabaster windows.
Sentry paths, iron ladders sculptor, Damià Forment. e Santuario de
and flights of steps ramble pre­ On the altar piece, a series of Torreciudad
cariously around the castle’s Crucifixion scenes in relief are
towers, dungeons and keep. highlighted by illumination. Huesca. Tel 974 30 40 25. @ to El
Opposite the cathedral is Grado from Barbastro. Open daily.
7 ∑ torreciudad.org
the Renaissance town hall
(ayuntamiento). Inside hangs
La Campana de Huesca, a gory This shrine was built to honour
19th­century painting depicting the devotion of the founder of
the town’s most memorable the Catholic lay order of Opus
event: the beheading of a Dei – San Jose María Escrivá
group of troublesome nobles de Balaguer – to the Virgin. It
in the 12th century by order occupies a promontory with
of King Ramiro II. The massacre picturesque views over the
occurred in the former Palacio waters of the Embalse de El
de los Reyes de Aragón, later Grado at Torreciudad. The huge
the university and now the church is made of angular red
superb Museo de Huesca, brick in a stark, modern design.
Altarpiece by Damià Forment, in containing archaeological Inside, the elaborate modern
Huesca Cathedral finds and a collection of art. altarpiece of alabaster,
sheltering a glittering Roman­
q Huesca E Museo de Huesca esque Virgin, is in contrast to
Plaza de la Universidad 1. Tel 974 22 the bleak, functional nave.
Huesca. * 52,000. £ @ n Plaza 05 86. Open 10am–2pm, 5–8pm
López Allué, 974 29 21 70. ( Tue, Tue–Sat, 10am–2pm Sun & pub hols.
Thu & Sat. _ San Vicente (22 Jan), Closed 1 & 6 Jan, 24, 25 & 31 Dec. 7 Environs
San Lorenzo (9–15 Aug). The town of Barbastro, 30 km
∑ huescaturismo.com (18 miles) to the south, has an
arcaded plaza mayor and a
Founded in the 1st century BC, w Alquézar 16th­cen tury cathedral with
the independent state of Osca Huesca. * 300. n Calle Arrabal s/n, an altar by Damià Forment.
(present­day Huesca) had 974 31 89 40. _ San Sebastián
a senate and an advanced (20 Jan), San Ipolito (12 Aug). 8
education system. From the
8th century, the area grew into This Moorish village attracts
a Moorish stronghold. In 1096 much attention because of its
it was captured by Peter of spectacular setting. Its main
Aragón and was the region’s monument, the stately
capital until 1118, when the 16th­century collegiate church,
title passed to Zaragoza. dominates a hill jutting above
Huesca is now the provincial the strange rock formations of
capital. The pleasant old town the canyon of the Río Vero.
has a Gothic cathedral. The In side, the church’s cloisters
eroded west front is surmount­ have capitals carved with
ed by an unusual wooden biblical scenes. Next to it is
gallery in Mudéjar style. Above the chapel built after Sancho I
the nave is slender­ribbed star recaptured Alquézar from the
vaulting studded with golden Moors. Nearby are the ruined
bosses. There is an alabaster walls of the original alcazár, The ruins of Alquézar Castle, rising
altar piece by the master which gives the village its name. above the village




238-239_EW_Spain.indd 239 26/09/17 11:01 am

240  EASTERN SP AIN


vaulted triple nave. The well-
preserved clois ters sprout
exuberantly decorated beasts,
heads of human beings and
foliage in the Gothic style (see
p28). The plain, dignified
chambers make a suitable venue
for art exhibitions in the summer.
Environs
In the hills to the west the small
Parque Natural de Moncayo
rises to a height of 2,315 m
(7,600 ft). Streams race through
Houses with frescoed façades on the Plaza de España, Graus the woodland of this nature
reserve, abound with birdlife.
r Graus style, can be found amid the A tor tuous potholed road leads
maze of narrow hilly streets. More to a chapel at 1,600 m (5,250 ft).
Huesca. * 3,400. @ n Plaza Mayor unusual perhaps are the former
15, 974 54 08 74. ( Mon. _ San
Antonio (19 Jan), Santa Agneda bullring, now a circular plaza u Zaragoza
(5 Feb), San Miguel (29 Sep–1 Oct). enclosed by houses, and the
∑ turismograus.com splendid Renaissance town Zaragoza. * 666,000. k £ @
hall (ayuntamiento). The town n Plaza del Pilar, 976 20 12 00. (
In the heart of Graus’s old town hall, built of golden stone, has Wed & Sun. _ San Valero (29 Jan),
is the unusual Plaza de España, a façade carved with mythical Cincomarzada (5 Mar), San Jorge
sur rounded by stone arcades giants and a frieze showing (23 Apr), Virgen del Pilar (12 Oct).
and columns. It has brightly Carlos V’s homage to Tarazona. ∑ turismodezaragoza.es/ciudad/
frescoed half-timbered houses turismo
and a 16th-century city hall. The
home of the infamous Tomás de y Monasterio de A Celtiberian settlement called
Torquemada (see p60) is in the Veruela Salduba existed on the site of
narrow streets of the old quarter. the present city; but it is from
At fiesta time, Graus is a good Vera de Moncayo, Zaragoza. Tel 976 the Roman settlement of
spot to see Aragonese dancing. 64 90 25. @ Vera de Moncayo. Cesaraugusta that Zaragoza
Open Wed–Mon. & 8 by appt. takes its name. Its location on
Environs 7 ∑ turismodeborja.com the fertile banks of the Río Ebro
About 20 km (12 miles) north- ensured its ascendancy, now
east, the hill village of Roda de This Cistercian re treat, set in Spain’s fifth-largest city and
Isábena is the smallest village the green Huecha Valley near the the capital of Aragón.
in Spain to boast a cathedral. Sierra de Moncayo, is one of the Damaged during the War of
Dating from 1067, this striking greatest monasteries in Aragón. Independence (see p66), the city
building has a 12th-century Founded in the 12th century by was largely re built, but the old
cloister off which is a chapel French monks, the huge abbey centre retains some interesting
with 13th-century frescoes. church has a mix ture of Roman- buildings. Most of the main
North of the village is the esque and Gothic features. Worn sights are grouped around Plaza
picturesque Isábena valley. green and blue Aragonese tiles del Pilar. The most impressive of
line the floor of its handsomely them is the Basílica de Nuestra
t Tarazona
Zaragoza. * 10,700. @ n Plaza
San Francisco 1, 976 64 00 74.
( every other Thu. _ San Atilano
(27 Aug–1 Sep). ∑ tarazona.es
Mudéjar towers stand high above
the earth-coloured, mottled
pantiles of this ancient bishopric.
On the outskirts of the Old Town
is the cathedral, all turreted finials
and pierced brickwork with
Moorish clois ter tracery and
Gothic tombs. In the upper town
on the other side of the river,
more churches, in typical Mudéjar Entrance and tower of the Monasterio de Veruela
For hotels and restaurants in this region see p567 and pp590–91


240-241_EW_Spain.indd 240 26/09/17 12:05 pm

AR A GÓN  241


Señora del Pilar, with its huge
church sporting 11 brightly tiled
cupolas. Inside, the Santa Capilla
(Lady Chapel) by Ventura
Rodríguez contains a small statue
of the Virgin on a pillar amid a
blaze of silver and flowers. Her
skirt-like manta is changed every
day, and pilgrims pass behind
the chapel to kiss an exposed
part of the pillar. The basílica
also has frescoes by Goya.
Nearby, on the square, stand
the town hall (ayuntamiento),
the 16th-century Renaissance Some of the cupolas of the Basílica de Nuestra Señora del Pilar
Lonja (commodities exchange)
and the Palacio Arzobispal. collection of a wealthy local art garden and a small mosque. The
Occupying the east end of the historian, whose special interest CaixaForum, a cultural centre
square is Zaragoza’s ca thedral, was Goya. The top floor contains set in a contemporary building,
La Seo, displaying a great mix a collection of his etchings. hosts Spain’s best touring
of styles. Part of the exterior is Minor works by artists of other exhibitions as well as talks,
faced with typical Mudéjar brick periods can be seen, as well as screenings and family activities.
and ceramic decoration, and con temporary art. The Museo
inside are a fine Gothic reredos de Zaragoza has a Goya room E Museo Goya
and splen did Flemish tapestries. and archaeological artifacts. Calle Espoz y Mina 23. Tel 976 39
Close by is the flamboyant The Museo Pablo Gargallo is 73 87. Open Tue–Sun. & 7
Mudéjar bell tower of the Iglesia a showroom for the Aragon ese E Museo de Zaragoza
de la Magdalena, and remains of sculptor after whom it is named, Plaza de los Sitios 6.
the Roman forum. Parts of the who was active at the beginning Tel 976 22 21 81. Open Tue–Sun. 7
Roman walls can also be seen at of the 20th century. One of the E Museo Pablo Gargallo
the opposite side of the Plaza most important monuments in
del Pilar, near the Mercado de Zaragoza lies on the busy road Plaza de San Felipe 3.
Tel 976 72 49 22. Open Tue–Sun.
Lanuza, a market with sinuous to Bilbao. The Aljafería is an
iron work in Art Nouveau style. enormous Moorish palace built E CaixaForum
The Museo Goya in the Pardo’s in the 11th century. A courtyard Avenida Anselmo Clavé 4.
Palace exhibits the eclectic of lacy arches surrounds a sunken Tel 976 76 82 00. Open daily.
Zaragoza City Centre
1 Roman walls
Arboleda
2 Mercado de Lanuza de Macanaz
3 Museo Pablo Gargallo Estación Delicias PA SE O D E L A R I B E R A
HUESCA
2000m (6600 yards)
4 Basílica de Nuestra Estación de Autobuses BARCELONA
1400m (4600 yards)
Señora del Pilar Puente LLEIDA
5 Museo Goya GLORIETA de Santiago R A MB L A
Puente
6 Lonja DE PÍO XII Basílica de de Piedra
AVE. CÉSAR AUGUSTO
7 La Seo (Cathedral) PLAZA Nuestra Señora
del Pilar
CÉSAR
8 Palacio Arzobispal Roman AUGUSTO E b r o
walls
Mercado
PLAZA
DEL PILAR
de Lanuza LANUZA JUSTICIA MANIFESTACION S A N T I A G O Ayuntamiento Palacio
PLAZA
PLAZA
Lonja
CALLE
PASEO DE ECHEGARAY Y CABALLERO
LA SEO
T E MPL E SANTA ISABE L
La Seo
SEPULCRO
Goya
PLAZA DE
CaixaForum PLAZA TORRE NUEVA E AL F O N SO I Santa Cruz Museo PLAZA DE Arzobispal
(Cathedral)
S. FELIPE
DE LA
CORONA Museo Pablo
CALLE ESPOZ Y MINA
Aeropuerto Gargallo PLAZA PLAZA DE
SANTA
CRUZ
16 km (10 miles) CA LLE D PLAZA MARTA
Palacio de la Aljafería C . M É ND E Z N ÚÑ E Z ARIÑO DON JAIM E I
BILBAO PLAZA E S TEBAÑES CALLE MAYOR PLAZA DE
PAMPLONA SAN ROQUE ASSO
MADRID
PLAZA DE
SAN PEDRO
NOLASCO
San Gil CALLE SAN JORGE SAN VIC EN TE DE PA Ú L
CUATRO AGOSTO
PLAZA
DE JOSÉ
0 metres 150 PLAZA SINUÉS
DE ESPAÑA VE R ÓN IC A
0 yards 150 Teatro
Parque Primo Romano Casa de los
de Rivera
Morlanes
C A L L E D E C O S O
Museo de Zaragoza
For keys to symbols see back flap
240-241_EW_Spain.indd 241 26/09/17 12:05 pm

242  EASTERN SP AIN

p Daroca
Zaragoza. * 2,100. n Calle Mayor
44, 976 80 01 29. ( Thu. _ Santo
Tomás (7 Mar). 8 (of village).
An impressive array of battle-
mented medieval walls stretches
approximately 4 km (2 miles)
around this old Moor ish strong-
hold. Although parts of the walls
have decayed, some of the 114
towers and gateways are still a
remark able sight, particularly
from the main road to Zaragoza.
The Colegial de Santa María,
a church in the Plaza España,
houses the Holy Cloths from the
Reconquest (see pp58–9). After a
surprise attack by the Moors in
1239, priests celebrating Mass
bundled the consecrated bread
into the linen sheets used for
the altar. Upon being unwrapped,
the cloths were miraculously
stained with blood.

Environs
Gateway through the medieval walls of Daroca The agricultural town of
Monreal del Campo, 42 km
i Calatayud Cistercian monks in the 12th (26 miles) south of Daroca, has
century, this monastery was a saffron museum. Towards
Zaragoza. * 20,200. £ @ n Plaza
España 1, 976 88 63 22. ( Tue. damaged in the 19th century Molina de Aragón, 20 km
_ San Roque (14–17 Aug), Virgen and subsequently rebuilt. Some (12 miles) from Daroca, is the
de la Peña (6–10 Sep). ∑ catalayud. of the 12th-century buildings Laguna de Gallocanta, a lake
es/turismo remain, including the chapter- and wildlife refuge.
house, refectory and hostel.
The huge Moorish fortress and In the damp cellars, the monks
minaret-like church towers are once distilled strong potions of a Fuendetodos
visible from miles around. Only herbal liqueur. This was allegedly Zaragoza. * 126. n Calle Cortes
ruins are left of the 8th-century the first place in Europe where de Aragón 7, 976 14 38 67. _ San
Arab castle of the ruler, Ayub, drinking choco late, from Mexico, Roque (last Sat of May), San Bartolomé
which gave the town its name. was made (see p63), and there is (24 Aug). ∑ fuendetodos.org
The church of Santa María la now a chocolate exhibition.
Mayor has a Mudéjar tower The park in which the mon- This small village was the
and an elaborate façade in astery stands is a nature reserve birthplace of one of Spain’s
the Plateresque style. The full of grottoes and waterfalls. best-known artists of the late
17th-century church of San A hotel is now located in the 18th and early 19th centuries,
Juan Real holds Goya paintings. old monastery buildings. Francisco de Goya. The
The ruins of the Roman set-
tlement of Bílbilis are east of
Calatayud, near Huérmeda.
o Monasterio
de Piedra
3 km (2 miles) south of Nuévalos,
Zaragoza. Tel 976 87 07 00.
£ Calatayud. @ from Zaragoza.
Open daily. & 8 7
∑ monasteriopiedra.com
Built on the site of a Moorish
castle conquered by Alfonso II
of Aragón and given to Interior of Goya’s cottage in Fuendetodos
For hotels and restaurants in this region see p567 and pp590–91


242-243_EW_Spain.indd 242 26/09/17 11:01 am
Eyewitness Travel LAYERS PRINTED:
Catalogue template “UK” LAYER
(Source v2.1)
Date 5th December 2012
Size 125mm x 217mm

AR A GÓN  243


Aragón’s Fiestas
Las Tamboradas (Maundy
Thursday and Good Friday),
Teruel pro vince. During Easter
Week, brotherhoods of men
wearing long black robes
beat drums in mourning
for Christ. Las Tamboradas
begins with “the breaking
of the hour” at midnight
on Thursday in Híjar. The
Tamborada in Calanda begins
the following day at midday.
The solemn drum rolls
continue for several hours.
Castle-parador above Alcañiz Aching arms and bleeding
hands are considered to be
Casa-Museo de Goya is a neat s Alcañiz signs of religious devotion.
cottage said to have been the Teruel. * 16,000. @ n Calle Mayor
painter’s home. It has been 1, 978 83 12 13. ( Tue. _ Fiestas
restored and furnished in a style Patronales (8–13 Sep). ∑ alcaniz.es
appropriate for the period.
Two build ings rise above
Environs the town of Alcañiz. One is the
Lying 14 km (9 miles) east of castle, once the head-quarters
Fuendetodos is Belchite, the of the Order of Calatrava. This
site of one of the most horrific historic building has been
battles of the Spanish Civil War converted into a parador. The
(see pp70–71), for control of the keep, the Torre del Homenaje,
strategic Ebro Valley. Remains has a collection of 14th-
of the old, shell-torn town have century frescoes depicting
been left tottering as a monu- the conquest of Valencia by
ment to the horrors of war. Jaime I.
In Cariñena, 25 km (16 miles) The other building is the
west of Fuendetodos, bodegas Iglesia de Santa María. This Young drummer in Las
offer the opportunity to sample church, on the sloping Plaza Tamboradas, Alcorija
and buy the excel lent, full- de España, has a Gothic tower
bodied red wine for which and a Baroque façade. Carnival (Feb/Mar), Bielsa
(Huesca). The protagonists
the region is justly renowned On the same square are of this fiesta, known as
(see pp206–7). the elegantly galleried Lonja Trangas, have rams’ horns
(com modities exchange), with on their heads, blackened
E Casa-Museo de Goya its lacy Gothic arches, and faces and teeth made of
Calle Zuloaga 3. Tel 976 14 38 30. the town hall (ayuntamiento), potatoes. They are said to
Open 11am–2pm, 4–7pm with one Mudéjar and one represent fertility.
Tue–Sun. & Renaissance façade. Romería de Santa Orosia
(25 Jun), Yebra de Basa
(Huesca). Pilgrims in folk
Francisco de Goya costume carry St Orosia’s
Born in Fuendetodos in 1746, skull to her shrine.
Francisco de Goya specialized in Día del Pilar (12 Oct),
designing cartoons for the tapestry Zaragoza. Aragón’s distinc tive
industry (see p310) in his early life, folk dance, the jota, is per-
and in decorating churches such as formed everywhere during
Zaragoza’s Basílica del Pilar with the city’s festivities in honour
vivacious frescoes. In 1799 he became of its patroness, the Virgin of
painter to Carlos IV, and depicted the Pillar (see pp240–41). On
the king and his wife María Luisa with the Día del Pilar there is a
unflattering accuracy (see p37). The procession with cardboard
giants, and a spectacular
Self-Portrait by Goya invasion of Madrid by Napoleon’s display of flow ers dedicated
troops in 1808 (see pp66–7) and its
attend ant horrors had a profound and lasting effect on Goya’s to the Virgin.
temperament, and his later works are imbued with cynical despair
and isolation. He died in Bordeaux in 1828.





242-243_EW_Spain.indd 243 26/09/17 11:01 am

244  EASTERN SP AIN


Environs
Rubielos de Mora, lying 14 km
(9 miles) to the southeast, is
worth exploring simply for its
well-preserved stone and timber
buildings. Among the balconied
houses is an Augustinian
convent with a Gothic reredos.

h Teruel
Teruel. * 34,200. £ @ n Plaza de
los Amantes 6, 978 62 41 05. ( Thu.
Alcalá de la Selva Castle, overlooking the town _ Día del Sermón de las Tortillas
d Valderrobres de Mora and Alcalá de la Selva, (Tue of Easter week), La Vaquilla del
Ángel (mid-Jul), Feria del Jamón
which has a castle set against (mid-Sep). ∑ turismo.teruel.es
Teruel. * 2,300. @ n Avenida
Cortes de Aragón 7, 978 89 08 86. a backdrop of rock faces. Its
( Sat. _ San Roque (mid-Aug). Gothic-Renaissance church, This industrial town has been
∑ valderrobres.es with shell motifs and twisted the scene of much desperate
columns, shelters the shrine fighting throughout the cent-
Just inside Aragón’s border of the Virgen de la Vega. uries. It began with the Romans,
with Catalonia, the town of the first to capture and civilize
Valderrobres overlooks the trout- Celtiberian Turba.
filled Río Matarraña. Dominating g Mora de Rubielos During the Reconquest
the town is the castle, formerly Teruel. * 1,650. n Calle Diputación the town became a strategic
a palace for Aragon ese royalty. 2, 978 80 05 29. ( Mon & Fri. _ San fron tier prize. In 1171 Alfonso II
Below it stands the imposing Miguel (28 Sep–1 Oct). recaptured Teruel for Christian
Gothic Iglesia de Santa María Spain, but many Muslims con-
la Mayor, with a huge rose Dominated by one of the best- tinued to live peacefully in the
window in Catalan Gothic preserved castles in Aragón, city, which they embel lished
style. The arc aded plaza has Mora de Rubielos with beautiful Mudéjar towers.
a pleasing late 16th-century displays the remains The last mosque was closed only
town hall (ayuntamiento). of the old walled city at the height of the Inquisition
with its bridges and (see p278), in 1502. More recently,
Environs a medieval old town. during the terrible, freezing
Near Valderrobres is the There is a fine winter of 1937, the bitterest
mountain peak of La Caixa. 17th-century town battle of the Civil War (see pp70–
At 14 km (9 miles) are the hall as well as the 71) was fought here. There were
mountain passes of Beceite. collegiate church many thousands of casualties.
of Santa María. The old quarter is home to the
+ Castillo de Valderrobres wedge-shaped Plaza del Torico,
Tel 679 63 44 38. Open Tue–Sun (Oct– with a monument of a small bull,
Jun: Fri–Sun & public hols). & 8

f Sierra de Gúdar
Teruel. £ Mora de Rubielos. @
Alcalá de la Selva. n Calle Diputación
2, Mora de Rubielos, 978 80 05 29.
∑ sierradegudar.com
This range of hills, northeast
of Teruel, is a region of pine
woods, jagged limestone
outcrops and scrub-covered
slopes. At 2,028 m (6,653 ft),
Peñarroya is the highest point.
Nearby Valdelinares, Spain’s
highest village, is a ski station.
From the access roads there are
panoramic views of the hills.
Especially noteworthy are the
views from the towns of Linares Tiled towers and rooftops of Teruel Cathedral
For hotels and restaurants in this region see p567 and pp590–91


244-245_EW_Spain.indd 244 26/09/17 11:01 am
Eyewitness Travel LAYERS PRINTED:
Catalogue template “UK” LAYER
(Source v2.1)
Date 5th December 2012
Size 125mm x 217mm

AR A GÓN  245


medieval form. Just outside the
town are the caves of Navazo
and Callejón, with their
prehistoric rock paintings.
Reproductions can be seen
in Teruel’s Museo Provincial.
Environs
In the surrounding Montes
Universales, which rise to
1,935 m (6,348 ft), is the source
of the Tagus, one of Spain’s
longest rivers. From fertile cereal
plains to crumbling rocks, this
area is a colourful mixture of
Balconied café above Albarracín’s main square poplars, junipers and thick pine
woods, with poppies in spring.
the city’s emblem. Within walking Standing on a ridge behind the At Cella, northeast of Albarracín,
distance lie the five remaining town are defensive walls and the Río Jiloca has its source.
Mudéjar towers. Most striking are towers dating from Muslim times.
those of San Salvador and San There is a good view of the k Rincón de
Martín, both dating back to the town from below the Palacio
12th century. The latter has multi- Episcopal (Bishop’s Palace). Ademuz
patterned brickwork studded Inside the neighbouring Valencia. * 2,400. @ Ademuz. n
with blue and green ceramics. 16th-century cathedral, which Fuente Vieja 10, Ademuz, 978 78 22
Beside the Iglesia de San Pedro is topped by a belfry, there is a 67. ( Wed. _ Fiestas de Agosto (15
are the tombs of the famous Renaissance carved wooden Aug), Fiestas de la Virgen del Rosario
Lovers of Teruel. The cathedral altarpiece depicting scenes (early Oct). ∑ rincondeademuz.es
has more colourful Mudéjar from the life of St Peter. The
work, including a lantern dome treasury museum contains This remote enclave south of
of glazed tiles, and a tower 16th-century Brussels tapestries Teruel belongs to the Comun idad
completed in the 17th century. and enamelled chalices. Valenciana (see p247), but is
The dazzling coffered ceiling is Some of Albarracín’s sturdy effectively an island of territory,
painted with lively scenes of beamed and galleried houses stranded between the borders
medieval life. have an unusual two-tier of Aragón and Castilla-La
The Museo Provincial, one structure. The ground floor is Mancha. The area has not
of Aragón’s best museums, is limestone, and the overhanging prospered in modern times, but
housed in an elegant mansion. upper storey is covered in rough still has an austere charm and
It has a large collection of coral-pink plasterwork. Many some peaceful tracts of country
ce ramics, testifying to an have been restored to their scattered with red rocks.
industry for which Teruel has
long been known. North of the The Lovers of Teruel
centre is the Acueducto de los
Arcos, a 16th-century aqueduct. According to legend, in 13th-century Teruel two young people,
Diego de Marcilla and Isabel de Segura, fell in love and wished to
E Museo Provincial marry. However, her wealthy family forbade the match because he
Placa Fray Anselmo Polanco 3. was poor. Diego was given five years in which to make his fortune.
Tel 978 60 01 50. Open Tue–Sun. 7 When he returned to Teruel, laden with wealth, he found Isabel
already married. Diego died of a broken heart and Isabel, full of
despair, died the following day. The Bodas de Isabel de Segura, a
j Albarracín festival held in mid-February, includes a re-enactment of the events.
Teruel. * 1,100. @ n Calle San
Antonio 2, 978 71 02 62. ( Wed.
_ Los Mayos (30 Apr–1 May),
Fiestas Patronales (8–17 Sep).
∑ albarracin.es
It is easy to see why this
picturesque town earned an
international award for historical
preservation. A dramatic cliff
above the Río Guadalaviar is the
perfect setting for this attractive Isabel de Segura Diego de Marcilla
cluster of mellow pink buildings.




244-245_EW_Spain.indd 245 26/09/17 11:01 am

246-247_EW_Spain.indd 246 26/09/17 11:01 am
Eyewitness Travel LAYERS PRINTED:
Regional intro template V2 “UK” LAYER
(OpenType)
Date 8th December 2005
Size 125mm x 217mm

EASTERN SP AIN  247

VALENCIA AND MURCIA


Castellón • Valencia • Alicante • Murcia
Centuries ago, Muslim settlers planted up the central
region of Spain’s eastern Mediterranean coast, and the
fertile fields and citrus groves of the coastal plains are still
the country’s market garden today. This region of Spain’s
eastern Mediterranean coast is also an attractive holiday
destination – the beaches of the Costa Blanca, the Costa del
Azahar and the Costa Cálida draw millions of tourists annually.

These productive lands have been have been joined by modern pack age
occupied for over 50,000 years. The holiday resorts, such as Benidorm and
Greeks, Phoenicians, Carthaginians and La Manga del Mar Menor. Inland, where
Romans all settled here before the Moors tourism has barely reached, the landscape
arrived, trading fish and local produce. rises into the chains of mountains that
The provinces of Castellón, Valencia stand between the coast and the plateau
and Alicante (which make up the of Central Spain. The scenery here ranges
Comunidad Valenciana) were recon­ from picturesque valleys and hills in the
quered from the Moors by a Catalan Maestrat, in the north of Castellón, to
army. The language these troops left the semi­desert terrain around Lorca in
behind them developed into a dialect, southern Murcia.
Valenciano, which is widely spoken and The warm climate encourages out door
increasingly seen on signposts. Murcia, life and exuberant fiestas. Most famous
to the south, is one of Spain’s smallest of these are Las Fallas of Valencia; the
autonomous regions. mock battles between Moors and
The population is concentrated on Christians staged in Alcoi; and the lavish,
the coast where the historic towns and costumed Easter processions in Murcia
cities of Valencia, Alicante and Cartagena and Lorca.


























Hill terraces of olive and almond trees ascending the hillsides near Alcoi
Gulls on the beach at Peníscola, Costa del Azahar



246-247_EW_Spain.indd 247 26/09/17 11:01 am

248  EASTERN SP AIN
La Poble de
La Balma Benifassá
Exploring Valencia and Murcia Forcall La Sènia
MORELLA
The coasts of Valencia and Murcia offer popular seaside holidays and Mirambel EL MAESTRAT Sant Barcelona
water sports almost all year round. Principal resorts include Benidorm, Cantavieja Ares del Mateu Vinaròs
Benicàssim, La Manga del Mar Menor and Oropesa. Some coastal towns Maestre Benicarló
such as Peníscola, Gandia, Dénia, Alicante (Alacant) and Cartagena have Villafranca del Cid Albocácer
charming old quarters, castles and other sites well worth visiting. Close PENÍSCOLA
to the sea are several scenic nature reserves: the freshwater lagoon of Peñagolosa Alcossebre
L’Albufera, and, on the Costa Blanca, the saltpans of Santa Pola and the 1813m Cabanes Torreblanca
striking limestone crag of the Penyal d’Ifach. Inland, the region offers VILLAFAMÉS Oropesa
excursions to such undiscovered beauty spots as El Maestrat and the Zaragoza Alcora Benicàssim
mountains around Alcoi, as well as the undervisited historic towns of CASTELLÓ C O S TA DEL AZAHA R
Xàtiva and Lorca. The two regional capitals, Valencia and Murcia, are Viver ONDA DE LA PLANA
both lively university cities with fine cathedrals and numerous museums. Aras de Alpuente La Val
Alpuente d'Uxio Burriana
Segorbe COVES DE SANT JOSEP
A L T O T U R I A Pucol SAGUNT
Chelva Casinos
Utiel Turia Llíria MONASTERIO
DE EL PUIG
Madrid Requena Paterna
VALENCIA
Torrente
Buñol Catarroja
Magro
L'ALBUFERA
Cabriel
Júcar
Cortes de Pallas P A Í S Alginet
Cofrentes Sueca
VA L E N C I A N O Cullera
Alzira
Alberic
Ayora Tavernes de
la Valldigna
Enguera
XÀTIVA GANDIA
Madrid, Oliva
Fishing nets strung out in the lagoon of L’Albufera Albacete
Ontinyent DÉNIA
Pego
Agres XÀBIA
Getting Around Bocairent GUADALEST
The region’s principal roads are the A7/AP7/E15 ALCOI Callosa Calp
Ibi
motorway and the N332 along the coast. Other Yecla Villena d'en Sarrià PENYAL D'IFACH
motorways connect Valencia with Madrid, A3 Sax Altea
(E901), and Alicante with Madrid, N330 A31. There Xixona BENIDORM
are main rail lines from Alicante, Valencia and Jumilla Elda La Vila Joíosa
Murcia to Madrid and Barcelona, but the rest of NOVELDA El Campello
the rail network is rather fragmented and buses Albacete Aspe ALICANTE C o s t a B l a n c a
are often quicker than trains. A scenic narrow- (ALACANT)
gauge railway line along the Costa Blanca Segura Cieza Crevillente ELX (ELCHE)
connects Dénia to Alicante via Benidorm. Moratalla Calasparra Fortuna Santa Pola
The region’s international airports are at ILLA DE TABARCA
Alicante and Valencia. CARAVACA DE Cehegín Archena
LA CRUZ
Molina de ORIHUELA Guardamar del Segura
Mula Segura
Key El Moral Alcantarilla MURCIA TORREVIEJA
Motorway M U R C I A San Pedro
Major road Alhama de Murcia Corvera del Pinatar
Minor road Luchena Totana San Javier MAR MENOR
Scenic route Torre Pacheco
Main railway LORCA Guadalentín La Unión
Minor railway Granada Mazarrón CARTAGENA
Regional border Puerto Puerto de Mazarrón
Lumbreras Cabo Tiñoso
Summit
Almeira
Águilas COSTA CÁLIDA
For keys to symbols see back flap
248-249_EW_Spain.indd 248 26/09/17 11:53 am