(DK Eyewitness) Travel Guide - Germany

EYEWITNES S TRAVEL


Germany





































































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EYEWITNES S TRAVEL


Germany





































































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EYEWITNES S TRAVEL


Germany




















Main Contributors Joanna Egert-Romanowska
and Małgorzata Omilanowska














































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EYEWITNES S TRAVEL


Germany




















Main Contributors Joanna Egert-Romanowska
and Małgorzata Omilanowska














































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Contents






Produced by Wydwnictwo Wiedza
i Życie, Warsaw Berlin Area by Northern
Contributors Małgorzata Omilanowska, Introducing Survival Guide
Marek Stańczyk, Tomasz Torbus, Germany Area Germany
Hanna Köster, Teresa Czerniewicz–Umer
Cartographers Kartographie Huber
(Munich), Magdalena Polak, Berlin at a Glance 68 Introducing Northern Practical
Dariusz Romanowski Discovering Germany 10
Photographers Adam Hajder, Dorota and Germany 422 Information 542
Mariusz Jarymowiczowie, Wojciech Mędrzak, Putting Germany on Eastern Centre 70
Tomasz Myśluk, Paweł Wójcik
Illustrators Lena Maminajszwili, Paweł the Map 18 Lower Saxony, Hamburg Travel Information 552
Marczak, Andrzej Wielgosz, Bohdan Western Centre 86 and Bremen 428
Wróblewski, Magdalena Żmudzińska A Portrait of Germany 22 General Index 560
DTP Designers Paweł Pasternak, Further Afield 98
Paweł Kamiński Schleswig-Holstein 458
Editors Teresa Czerniewicz-Umer, Germany Through Acknowledgments 580
Joanna Egert-Romanowska the Year 44 Shopping in Berlin 110 Mecklenburg-Lower
Production Anna Kożurno-Królikowska Neuschwanstein Castle framed by autumn Phrasebook 582
Designers Ewa Roguska, Piotr Kiedrowski Entertainment in colours and Alpine foothills Pomerania 470
Dorling Kindersley Limited The History of
Editors Sylvia Goulding, Irene Lyford Germany 50 Berlin 112
Translators Magda Hannay, Ian Wisniewski Southern Germany
DTP Designers Jason Little, Conrad Van Dyk Berlin Street Finder 118 Travellers’ Needs
Production Marie Ingledew, Joanna Bull
Printed and bound in Malaysia
First American Edition 2001 Introducing Southern
18 19 20 21 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 Where to Stay 488
Published in the United States by Eastern Germany Germany 204
DK Publishing, 345 Hudson Street, Where to Eat and
New York, New York 10014 Munich 210
Reprinted with revisions 2003, 2004, Drink 504
2005, 2006, 2007, 2008, 2010, 2012, Introducing Eastern Knocker at a door of St Thomas Church
2014, 2016, 2018 Shopping in Munich 234 Shopping in (Thomaskirche) in Leipzig, Saxony.
Copyright 2001, 2018 © Germany 126 Germany 534
Dorling Kindersley Limited, London Entertainment in
A Penguin Random House Company Brandenburg 132 Munich 236
All rights reserved. Without limiting the Outdoor Activities
rights under copyright reserved above, no and Specialist
part of this publication may be Saxony-Anhalt 146 Munich Street Finder 238
reproduced, stored in or introduced into a Holidays 536
retrieval system, or transmitted, in any
form, or by any means (electronic, Saxony 162 Bavaria 242
mechanical, photocopying, recording or
otherwise), without the prior written
permission of both the copyright owner Thuringia 186 Baden-Württemberg 292
and the above publisher of this book.
Published in Great Britain by
Dorling Kindersley Ltd
A catalog record for this book is available
from the Library of Congress. Berlin Cathedral reflected in the Western Germany
ISSN 1542-1554
ISBN 978-1-4654-6830-7 Spree River.
Floors are referred to throughout in
accordance with European usage; Introducing Western
ie the “first floor” is the floor above The information in this
ground level. DK Eyewitness Travel Guide is checked regularly. Germany 334
Every effort has been made to ensure that this book is as up-to-date as possible
at the time of going to press. Some details, however, such as telephone numbers,
opening hours, prices, gallery hanging arrangements and travel information are Rhineland-Palatinate
liable to change. The publishers cannot accept responsibility for any consequences and Saarland 340
arising from the use of this book, nor for any material on third party websites, and
cannot guarantee that any website address in this book will be a suitable source of
travel information. We value the views and suggestions of our readers very highly. Hesse 364
Please write to: Publisher, DK Eyewitness Travel Guides, Dorling Kindersley,
80 Strand, London, WC2R 0RL, UK, or email: [email protected]. North Rhine-
Title page The Rhine river flows through the heart of Cologne Front cover image St Mark’s Tower, Rothenburg ob der Tauber in Westphalia 386 Maria Laach
Bavaria Back cover image An aerial view of Berlin’s skyline
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Contents







Northern Survival Guide
Germany

Introducing Northern Practical
Germany 422 Information 542
Lower Saxony, Hamburg Travel Information 552
and Bremen 428
General Index 560
Schleswig-Holstein 458
Acknowledgments 580
Neuschwanstein Castle framed by autumn Mecklenburg-Lower
colours and Alpine foothills Pomerania 470 Phrasebook 582

Southern Germany Travellers’ Needs



Introducing Southern Where to Stay 488
Germany 204
Where to Eat and
Munich 210 Drink 504
Knocker at a door of St Thomas Church
Shopping in Munich 234 Shopping in (Thomaskirche) in Leipzig, Saxony.
Germany 534
Entertainment in
Munich 236 Outdoor Activities
and Specialist
Munich Street Finder 238
Holidays 536
Bavaria 242
Baden-Württemberg 292


Western Germany



Introducing Western
Germany 334
Rhineland-Palatinate
and Saarland 340

Hesse 364
North Rhine-
Westphalia 386 Maria Laach





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6  HOW T O USE THIS GUIDE HOW T O USE THIS GUIDE  7

HOW TO USE THIS GUIDE MUNICH SOUTHERN GERM AN Y  211 Germany Area by Area
The capital of Bavaria, Munich is sometimes called “Germany’s Introduction The
secret capital”. Lying right at the heart of Europe, the city rapidly In this guide, Germany is divided
overshadowed once powerful neighbours, such as Ingolstadt, 1landscape, history and
This guide will help you to get the most sights and attractions of the different regions Augsburg and Nuremberg, to become southern Germany’s into 13 areas, each of which is
main metropolis. With its vibrant cosmopolitan atmosphere,
fine buildings, museums and shops, it is one of the country’s
most popular tourist destinations. character of each region
out of a visit to Germany, providing expert and major cities. Feature spreads, with maps The citizens of Munich have been known But it is not only art that gives Munich its are described, showing covered in a separate section.
for centuries for their love of the arts. The unique charm. The country’s biggest folk
festival, the Oktoberfest, is held each year
masterpieces that were created here
recommendations as well as thoroughly and photographs, focus on important sights. during the Baroque and Rococo periods in Theresienwiese, where visitors to the how the area has changed The most interesting cities, towns,
town can join in the revelries or just sit and
were equal to Italian and French works.
In the 19th century, the town’s develop­ watch, ordering a plate of sauerkraut with villages and sights in the area are
researched practical information. The first Information on accommodation and restau­ gaining for it the name of “Athens on Isar”. of the excellent Bavarian beer. through the ages. It also marked on the Area Map.
ment continued along Neo­Classical lines,
sausages and washing it down with some
Just how appropriate the name is can be
When planning a shopping trip to
section, Introducing Germany, locates the rants is provided in Travellers’ Needs, while seen when strolling along Ludwigstrasse Munich visitors can be sure that its shops outlines the sights on offer
or Königsplatz or visiting the Glyptothek,
are equal to those of Paris and Milan, not
only in the breadth of their range but also
which houses Ludwig I’s collection of Greek
and Roman sculptures. in terms of their prices. for visitors.
The town is also one of Germany’s main
country geographically and provides an the Survival Guide has useful tips on every­ Academy of Fine Arts was amongst Europe’s centres of high­tech and media industries.
In the late 19th century the Munich
Many TV stations and film studios, as well as
best art schools. Not many cities have as
great a choice of world­class theatres, operas over 300 book and newspaper publishers,
invaluable historical and cultural context. thing you need to know from money to and museums as can be found here in Munich. have their main offices in Munich.
Succeeding sections describe the main getting around.
164  E AS t E r n GE r MA ny S A xo n y  165
Exploring Saxony Getting Around
Leipzig and Dresden both have airports, as well as
When travelling in Saxony, a visit to Dresden is a must.
Berlin Visitors should set aside several days to explore its excellent train and road connections with the rest Regional Map This shows the
of Germany. The A6 motorway runs west from
historic sights and magnificent museums. Dresden is
Görlitz, through Dresden and Chemnitz; the A13
BErl I n A r EA B y A r EA  87 Pages marked with also a convenient base for excursions to the attractive links Dresden with Berlin, and the A14 with Leipzig. 2main roads and the general
Other roads, national and regional, are clearly sign­
landscapes of the Sächsische Schweiz (“Saxon
posted, and all the towns described in this guide
This section is divided into WESTERN CENTRE red refer to Berlin. The Neo-Gothic Rathaus in Marienplatz, Munich’s central square Bad Düben Lutherstadt can also be reached by local buses. topography of the area. All
Switzerland”) and further afield – to Bautzen, Görlitz and
Zittau, or to the Erzgebirge Mountains, towards Freiberg
Wittenberg
and Chemnitz. Another town worth visiting, at least
for a day, is Leipzig with its historic sights,
two parts: eastern centre and This part of Berlin includes the areas of neigh bouring Potsdamer Platz is now an Interior and ceiling of the Antiquarium Hall in the Residenz Museum Halle Delitzsch TORGAU The giant castle and cathedral complex in Meissen Spree MUSK
cultural events, trade fairs and exhibitions.
ultra-modern development, built on the
Tiergarten, Charlottenburg and parts
wasteland that formerly divided East and
of Kreuzberg, as well as a small section of
Mitte, which used to belong to East Berlin. West Berlin. Rackwitz Eilenburg Hoyerswerda
western centre. Sights estate, became a park in the 18th century. does not feature a great number of historic UKGER_210-211.indd 211 LEIPZIG 31/10/2013 15:50 Wurzen Riesa Grossenhain Berlin Bernsdorf O b e r l a u s i t z Niesky there are also details
Although the eastern part of Charlottenburg
Tiergarten, which was once a royal hunting
It survives as a park to this day, although
buildings, it is one of the city’s most attractive
outside the centre are in an altered form. districts, which, after World War II, became Zwenkau Markkleeberg Zwickauer Mulde Y Leisnig Oschatz MORITZBURG KAMENZ Schwarze Elster BAUTZEN Aachen to get there.
the commercial and cultural centre of West
To the south of Tiergarten is the
Kulturforum – a large centre of museums
Berlin. Kreuzberg is a lively area that is now
and other cultural establishments,
described in the section Sights at a Glance populated by immigrants, artists and affluent A locator map shows where you Pleisse Colditz Rochlitz Freiberger Mulde MEISSEN Coswig Radebeul Stolpen Bischofswerda Löbau GORLITZ Ostriz
which was created after World War II. The
young professionals.
are in relation to the city plan.
Burg Kriebstein
Further Afield. All sights are Museums and Galleries Streets and Squares Wechselburg M U L D E VA L L E SACHSEN Freital DRESDEN Elbe S ACHSIS CHE
L a u s i t z e r B e r g l a n d
2 Kurfürstendamm (Ku’damm)
Mittweida
3 Käthe-Kollwitz-Museum
7 Bauhaus-Archiv 4 Zoologischer Garten Rochsburg Hainichen FREIBERG Weesenstein PIRNA S CHW E IZ Bad Schandau ZITTAU
numbered and plotted on a 9 Gemäldegalerie t Potsdamer Platz Erfurt Meerane AUGUSTUSBURG
8 Bendlerblock
5 Tiergarten
0 Kupferstichkabinett und
Churches
Kunstbibliothek
q Neue Nationalgalerie 1 Kaiser-Wilhelm-Gedächtniskirche Glauchau CHEMNITZ Pockau
map of the region. Detailed w Kunstgewerbemuseum Historic Buildings and Area Map For easy Neukirchen ZWICKAU Marienberg Prague
Monuments
r Musikinstrumenten-Museum
u Regierungsviertel i Hamburger
the banks of the Spree River
Bahnhof 6 Siegessäule C H A U S S E E S T R A S S E 1reference the sights in The Old Town of Bautzen, situated high above SÄCHSISCHE SILBERSTRASSE Fl ha
e Philharmonie
information for each sight is y Reichstag Naturkundemuseum Sights at a Glance Reichenbach Schneeberg Annaberg-
o Museum für Naturkunde
INVALID ENS TR A S SE
1 Leipzig pp166–7
given in numerical order to INVA LI D EN S T RASS E HANNOVERSC H E STR FRIEDRICHSTRASSE each area are numbered. 2 Torgau Plauen Auerbach Auersberg 1019m Oberwiesenthal Buchholz
Oranienburger
3 Mulde Valley
Tor
4 Zwickau
Fichtelberg
Hauptbahnhof
1214m
Oelsnitz
make it easy to locate within PA U L S T R A S S E L ÜNEBURGER STR. ALT-MOABIT REINHARDTSTRASSE 5 Chemnitz Nurnberg V o g t l a n d Saddle horses grazing on paddocks near Kamenz
6 Augustusburg
8 Freiberg
L U I S E N S T R A S S E
9 Meißen
See also Streetfinder maps S p r e e PLATZ DER Bundestag 0 Moritzburg Key Boxes contain additional
the chapter. pp119–122 JOHN-FOSTER- SCHEIDEMANNSTR q Dresden pp172–81 Motorway information about sights.
REPUBLIK
w Pirna
DULLES-ALLEE
SPREEWEG r Kamenz Major road
KLEINER STERN S TR AS SE DES 17. JUN I t Bautzen Minor road
S TR AS SE DES 17. JUN I y Bad Muskau Scenic route
TIERGAR TEN TIERGARTEN-TUNNEL E B E R T S T R A S S E u Görlitz Main railway 0 kilometres 20 20
0 miles
i Zittau
Sights at a Glance describes, FAS ANENSTRASSE ZOOLOGISCHER ST ÜLERSTRASSE T I E R G A R T E N - S T R A S S E Tours 7 Sächsische Silberstraße Minor railway Young musicians in the Barockgarten,
Country border
HOFJÄGERALLEE
International border
in Großsedlitz, near Dresden
by category, buildings in a KANTSTR. Zoologischer Garten GARTEN BUDAPESTER STR HEYDT STR L Ü T Z OWU F E R STAUFFENBERGSTR. REICHPIETSCHUFER POTSDAMER STR Potsdamer Platz e Sächsische Schweiz Summit 184  East E r n G E rm an y sa x on y  185
For hotels and restaurants in this area see pp492–503 and pp510–33
For additional map symbols see back flap
S C H ÖN E B E R G ER U F E R
NÜRNBERGER STRASSE
particular area: Historic KURFÜRSTENDAMM AUGSBURGER STR Kurfürsten- TAUENTZIEN STR Wittenbergplatz UKGER_164-165.indd All Pages 31/10/2013 15:47 churches in Jerusalem. Görlitz Zittau Mountains, a paradise
KURFÜRSTENSTRASSE
damm
climbing the 15th-century
Streets and Buildings, FASANEN- STR Uhlandstr. LIE TZENB UR GE R S T R A SSE Augsburger  BERLIN AREA B Y AREA Strasse 88 AN DER URANIA 0 metres 0 yards 400 400 WESTERN CENTRE  89 Colour coding at the edge of Alte Wasser kunst, a tower that s
nature lovers. The town itself is
town fortifications with original
pumped Spree water up to the
splendidly preserved, with many
town. It is the symbol of Bautzen
towers and gates, including the
Street-by-Street: Kulturforum
Museums and Galleries, Visitors walking up the interior of the Reichstag Dome For map symbols see back flap e . Philharmonie every page makes it easy to find and offers splendid views. Kaisertrutz, a 15th-century historic buildings, such as the
The cathedral Dom St Peter
barbican, extended in the 19th
beautiful, Baroque Noacksches
century and now home to the
is now used jointly by Catholics
Its exterior covered in
Haus (Markt 2). The Neo-
a layer of golden
Churches, Parks and Gardens. The idea of creating a new cultural centre in w . Kunstgewerbe- aluminium, the Berlin each particular region. (choir) and Protestants (nave). town’s art collection. Renaissance Rathaus (town
hall) was built in 1840–45,
museum
West Berlin was first mooted in 1956. The first
The late-Gothic Schloss
Among the collection
Ortenburg houses the
to a design by Carl Augustus
Philharmonic concert
Environs
at the Museum of Arts
UKGER_086-087.indd 87 building to go up was the Berlin Philharmonic 31/10/2013 15:43 hall is known all over WESTERN CENTRE EASTERN Sorbisches Museum, devoted The small town of Ostritz, Schramm. The Johanniskirche,
concert hall, built from 1960 to 1963 to an
by Karl Friedrich Schinkel,
the world for its
and Crafts you can see
to Sorbian history and culture.
16 km (10 miles) to the south,
innovative design by Hans Scharoun. Most other this intricately carved superb acoustics. CENTRE has a charming original combines elements of Neo-
elements of the Kulturforum were realized silver and ivory tankard, E Sorbisches Museum Cistercian abbey, St Marien thal Classical and Neo-Gothic styles
between 1961 and 1987, and came from such made in an Augsburg Locator Map Ortenburg 3. Tel (03591) 42 403. (1230). Its red-and-white and is an excellent example of
workshop around 1640.
Open Apr–Oct: 10am–5pm Tue–Sun;
famous architects as Ludwig Mies van der Rohe. Nov–Mar: 10am–4pm Tue–Sun. buildings are to this day Historicist architecture.
See Street Finder maps 1 & 3
The area is now a major cultural centre that Baroque Neptune fountain in inhabited by nuns, who show Environs
visitors around and serve food
Untermarkt, in Görlitz
attracts millions of visitors every year. and home-brewed beer. The charming spa town of
Detailed Information All Gothic altar from 1513 in St Annen church, in Kamenz u Görlitz Oybin, 9 km (6 miles) south
of Zittau, can be reached by
Road map F4. * 66,000. £ @
0 Kupferstichkabinett r Kamenz t Bautzen n Obermarkt 32 (03581-475 70). i Zittau narrow-gauge railway. Its
attractions include the hilltop
Street-by-Street Map The large collection of 3major towns, places of interest Road map F4. * 16,800. £ @ Road map F4. * 44,000. £ @ _ Kultursommer (May– Sep); Road map F4. * 28,000. £ @ ruins of a Gothic abbey,
prints and drawings
Sommertheater (Jul); Straßen theater-
n Markt 1 (03583-75 22 00).
n Hauptmarkt 1 (03591-4 20 16).
n Pulsnitzer Str. 11 (03578 379 205).
owned by this gallery
immortalized by Caspar David
_ Vogelhochzeit (Jan); Lausitzer
_ Klosterfest (Ascension) (May); Fest
festival (Aug). ∑ goerlitz.de
_ Hutbergfest (May). ∑ kamenz.de
includes this portrait of
visit for a Saturday evening in
2gives a bird’s-eye view of Albrecht Dürer’s mother. and other tourist sights The best time for a visit to Kamenz Fischwochen (Oct). ∑ bautzen.de This border town, whose am Dreiländereck (Jun); Stadtfest (Jul). Friedrich. It is worth timing y
∑ zittau.eu
eastern part, Zgorzelec, has
summer, when you can witness
This town is scenically situated
is the end of May or June, when
the rhododendrons that cover
the procession of torch-bearing
on a high rock overhanging the
Zittau is an excellent starting
belonged to Poland since 1945,
the Hutberg (294 m/965 ft high)
point for excursions into the
Spree River valley. Known
boasts a long history. Its oldest
monks or listen to a concert.
each sightseeing area r Musikinstrumenten-Museum are listed in order and are in flower. The poet, Gotthold mainly for its top-security jail for records date back to 1071.
political prisoners during the
Founded in 1210–20, the town
Ephraim Lessing, was born in
Kamenz in 1729. Although his
GDR era, today it enchants
flourished in the 15th and 16th
described in the section. S C H A R O U N S T R A S S E P O T S D A M E R S T R A S S E This harpsichord is part of a collection numbered according to house no longer exists, the visitors with its beautifully Doorway of the Neo-Renaissance
restoration plan was begun, and
reconstructed old town. Many
Lessingmuseum, founded in
of musical instruments dating from the
signs are bilingual, German and
1929, is devoted to his work.
now visitors can see its historic
16th to the 20th century.
M A T THÄIKIRCH A great fire destroyed much Sorbian, reflecting the fact that Bad Muskau buildings in their former glory.
PL A TZ of the town in 1842, but it Bautzen is the cultural capital of y Bad Muskau The charming houses in
St-Matthäus-Kirche
Obermarkt (upper market),
spared the late-Gothic
the Sorbs. The winding streets
This 19th-century church the Regional Map. Each St Marien church, a four-nave with their ori ginal houses, the Road map F4. * 4,170. @ the Renaissance portals and
stands out among the 15th-century structure with city walls, the curiously crooked n Schlossstr. 6 (035771-504 92). decorations on houses in
Stars indicate the sights that no modern buildings of entry contains information Gothic altars and other Reichen turm tower and the ∑ badmuskau.de Brüderstraße and the fasci nating
Untermarkt (lower market),
interesting features. Equally
the Kulturforum.
Baroque town hall in the town
square form a very attractive
noteworthy for their furnishings
with its vast town hall complex,
Bad Muskau, a small town and
visitor should miss. S I G I S M U N D S T R A S S E on important sights. are the Gothic ex-Franciscan complex. It is also worth spa, boasts one of Saxony’s enchant everyone. The older Fountain with a statue of Roland, the French knight, in Z
wing of the town hall, the work
most beautiful parks, which has
St Annen church and the
of Wendel Roskopf, has an
unusual hall-church
been included in the UNESCO
Katechismuskirche.
amazing external staircase with
Cultural Heritage list. It was
created in 1815–45 by the writer
Renaissance ornaments, and
Originally part of the town’s
The Sorbs
One of the most remarkable
row of loopholes on its
Muskau. The Neo-Renaissance
churches is the imposing five-
palace at its centre was
upper storey. The old
Lusatians or Wends, are an
indigenous Slav minority who live
9 . Gemäldegalerie P O T S D A M E R S T R A S S E fortification system, it has a Prince Hermann von Pückler- winds around the statue of Justice. The Sorbs, also known as the
cemetery and the Gothic
nave, 15th-century Haupt­
destroyed in World War II and
in the eastern regions of Saxony
stadtpfarrkirche St Peter und
reopened after reconstruction
funereal church
Among the most important Begräbniskirche St Just in 2008. The English-style St Paul whose Baroque furnish- and Brandenburg. Their ancestors,
works of the old masters the Lusatian Slavs, were conquered
exhibited in this gallery of fine are also worth a visit. landscaped park surrounding it, ings are among the finest in by Germans in the 10th century.
art is this Madonna in Church R E I C H P I E T S C H U F E R As is the Museum der a nature reserve since 1952, is Saxony. Also noteworthy is the Although condemned to
by Jan van Eyck (c.1425). Westlausitz, a museum well worth visiting. Its main Oberkirche, with an original extermination by the National
of the local region.
part, on the northern shores of
Gothic main altar and 15th-
Socialists, today they enjoy
Kunstbibliothek the Lusatian Neisse River, is in century wall paintings in the side complete cultural autonomy. The
WESTERN CENTRE  93
92  BERLIN AREA B Y AREA The Art Library that L A N D W E H R K A N A L E Lessingmuseum Poland. A joint Polish-German nave. One of Görlitz’s curiosities revival of their language and
boasts a rich collection Lessingplatz 1–3. Tel (03578) programme has opened the is the Heiliges Grab (Holy tomb), traditions is apparent in the
of books, graphic art 380 50. Open 9am–5pm Tue–Fri, Impressive Baroque entrance to the Domstift entire area to visitors from both built in 1481–1504, a group of bilingual signs in towns.
sides of the border.
Berlin were united in 1994 in 0 metres 50 and drawings. concept for concert hall 154  EASTERN GERM AN Y 1pm–5pm Sat & Sun. in Bautzen N A u M buRG  155 three chapels that are replicas of
the Kupferstich kabinett (Print 0 yards 50 interiors, with a podium q Neue Nationalgalerie For hotels and restaurants in this area see pp492–503 and pp510–33
Gallery), whose collection occupying the central section Sculptures by Henry Moore and Neue Staatsbibliothek
includes around 2,000 Key of the pentagonal hall, around Alexander Calder stand outside this Hans Scharoun designed
engraver’s plates, over 520,000 Suggested route which are galleries for the streamlined building, designed by this public lending and Naumburg Dom Pulpit ViSitoRS’ ChECkliSt
prints and 80,000 drawings public. The exterior is Ludwig Mies van der Rohe. research library built in 1978. UKGER_184-185.indd All Pages The richly ornamented 31/10/2013 15:48
reminiscent of a circus tent.
and watercolours. For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp488–90 and pp526–8 The impressive Cathedral of Saints Peter and Paul in pulpit basket, from Practical Information
The Kunstbibliothek (Art The gilded exterior was added Naumburg is one of the finest Gothic structures in 1466, and the Domplatz 16–17.
Library) is not only a library with between 1978 and 1981. Germany. The present cathedral is the second to be adjoining stairs have tel (03445) 23 01 10.
a range of publications about Between the years 1984 to built on the same site; only a section of the eastern been renovated. open Mar–Oct: 9am–6pm Mon– A visitors’ checklist for each
the arts; it is also a museum 1987 the Kammermusiksaal, Sat, noon–6pm Sun; Nov–Feb:
with an extensive collection of UKGER_088-089.indd All Pages which was designed by Edgar 31/10/2013 15:44 crypt survived of the earlier Romanesque church. 10am–4pm Mon–Sat, noon–4pm
posters, advertisements and Wisniewski on the basis of Construction started before 1213, with the earliest parts Sun. &
The captivating, streamlined buildings of the Bauhaus-Archiv other practical forms of design. sketches by Scharoun, was including the late-Romanesque east choir, the transept of the main sights provides
added to the Philharmonie.
and the main body. The early-Gothic west choir was
7 Bauhaus­Archiv built during the Third Reich as This building consolidates built in the mid-13th century, the newer Gothic east
Klingelhöferstraße 14. Map 3 D4, E4. an extension to the German the aesthetics of the earlier A suggested route for a walk is choir c.1330. The northeast towers date from the practical information to help
structure by featuring a central
State Naval Offices. During World
Tel (030) 254 00 20.  Nollen dorf- War II they were the headquarters multi-sided space covered by 15th century, the southwest towers from 1894.
platz. @ 100, 187, M29. Open 10am– of the Wehrmacht (German a fanciful tent-like roof.
5pm Wed–Mon. & Library: 9am– marked with a broken red line. you plan your visit.
1pm Mon–Fri. 7 ∑ bauhaus.de Army). It was here that a group Karl Schmidt-Rottluff’s Farm in Daugart (1910), Neue Nationalgalerie
of officers planned their assas-
The Bauhaus school of art, started sination attempt on Hitler on 20 The most celebrated artists of of late Gothic and Renaissance r Musikinstru­
by Walter Gropius in 1919, was July 1944. When the attempt led other European countries are silver from the civic treasury menten­Museum
one of the most influential art by Claus Schenk von Stauffenberg included, as are examples of in the town of Lüneberg. In
institutions of the 20th century. failed, he and his fellow post-World War II art. addition, there are fine Tiergartenstraße 1. Map 1 D5. Tel
Originally based in Weimar, it conspirators were arrested and examples of Italian majolica, (030) 25 48 10.  &  Potsdamer
inspired many artists and death sentences passed. w Kunstgewerbe­ and 18th- and 19th-century Platz. @ 200. Open 9am–5pm Tue–
architects. Staff and students Stauffenberg, Friedrich Olbricht, museum German, French and Italian Fri (to 10pm Thu), 10am–5pm Sat & . Main Portal
Sun. Wurlitzer Organ demonstration:
included Mies van der Rohe, Werner von Haeften, and Ritter glass, porcelain and furniture. noon, first Sat of the month. & 7 The late-Romanesque, 13th-century portal is
Paul Klee and Wassily Kandinsky. Mertz von Quirn heim were shot Munch’s lithograph Girl on a Beach, Tiergarten-Str. 6. Map 3 F3. Tel (030) decorated on the left side with eagles. The
The school moved to Berlin in in the Bendler block courtyard. A Kupferstichkabinett 266 2902.  Potsdamer Platz. Behind the Philharmonie, in a tympanum features Christ in a mandorla
1932 from Dessau, but was monument commemorating  Potsdamer Platz or Mendelssohn- e Philharmonie small building designed by Detailed Information All the (almond-shaped area) supported by angels.
closed by the Nazis in 1933. this event, designed by Richard Bartholdy-Park. @ 100, 123, 148, 200, Philharmonic and Chamber Edgar Wisniewski and Hans Stained-Glass Windows in the Presbytery Major Sights At least two
After the war, the Bauhaus- Scheibe in 1953, stands where q Neue M29, M41. Closed for ongoing Music Hall Scharoun between 1979 and The stained-glass windows depict scenes
Archiv was relocated to the executions were carried out. Nationalgalerie renovation in 2014. & 7 ^ 1984, the fascinating Museum of the apostles of virtue and sin. Some
Darmstadt. In 1964 Walter On the upper floor of the build- Potsdamer Straße 50. Map 3 F4. Herbert-von-Karajan-Straße 1. Map 3 of Musical Instruments houses 3sights of Berlin are described sections are original 13th-century work, but
F3. Tel (030) 25 48 80.  & 
Gropius designed a building to ing there is an exhibition which Tel (030) 266 26 51.  &  This museum holds a rich Potsdamer Platz or  Mendelssohn- a collection dating from 1888. two were completed in the 19th century. 4pages are dedicated to
house the collection but, in 1971, documents the history of the Potsdamer Platz or  Mendelssohn- collection embracing many Bartholdy-Park. @ 200, M29 M41. Intriguing displays trace the
the archive was moved to Berlin German anti-Nazi movements. Bartholdy-Park. @ M48, M85, 200, genres of craft and decorative development of each individually. Addresses,
and the design was adapted to M29, M41. Open 10am–6pm Tue & art, from the early Middle Ages Home to one of the most instrument from the 16th
the new site. As Gropius had died Wed, Fri, 10am–10pm Thu, 11am–6pm to the modern day. Goldwork is renowned orchestras in Europe, century to the present day. each major sight. Historic
in 1969, Alexander Cvijanovic 9 Gemäldegalerie Sat & Sun. & 7 especially well represented, as this unusual building is among Most spectacular of all is a
took over the project. Built See pp94–5. are metal items from the Middle the finest postwar architectural working Wurlitzer cinema telephone numbers, opening . Founders’
between 1976 and 1979 the After World War II, when this Ages. Among the most valuable achievements in Europe. Built organ dating from 1929. Statues buildings are dissected in
The statues of
gleaming white building with its magnificent collection of exhibits is a collection of between 1960 and 1963 to a Saturday demonstrations of its Margrave Ekkehard and
glass-panelled gables houses 0 Kupferstich­ modern art ended up in West medieval goldwork from the design by Hans Scharoun, the impressive sounds attract his wife, Uta, are true
the archive, library and Berlin, the commission to church treasures of Enger and Philharmonie pioneered a new enthusiastic crowds. There is hours, admission charges and masterpieces – the artist
exhibition halls. kabinett und design a suitable building to the Guelph treasury from also an archive and a library. succeeded marvellously in order to show their interiors.
Kunstbibliothek house it was given to Mies van Brunswick. The museum capturing the beauty and
8 Bendlerblock Matthäikirchplatz 8. Map 3 F3. der Rohe. The result is a striking also takes great pride in information on how to get sensitivity of his subjects.
East Choir Altar
building with a flat steel roof
its collection
(Gedenkstätte Tel (030) 266 20 02.  &  over a glass hall, which is This Gothic altar features the Virgin Interesting towns or town
Deutscher Potsdamer Platz or  Mendelssohn- supported only by six slender Mary with the Infant Jesus, surrounded
Bartholdy-Park. @ M48, M85, 200,
Widerstand) M29, M41. Kupferstichkabinett interior struts. there are given for each sight. by the figures of the saints.
The collection comprises
Stauffenbergstraße 13–14. Map 3 Exhibitions: 10am–6pm Tue–Fri, largely 20th-century art, but kEY centres have street maps
11am–6pm Sat & Sun. Studio gallery:
E4, F4. Tel (030) 26 99 50 00. begins with artists of the late
 Mendelssohn-Bartholdy-Park. 9am–4pm Tue–Fri. Kunstbibliothek 19th century, such as Edvard 1 West choir
@ M29, M48. Open 9am–6pm Mon– Exhibits: 10am–6pm Tue–Fri, Munch. German art is well The key to symbols is shown 2 Sarcophagus of
Fri (to 8pm Thu), 10am–6pm Sat & 11am–6pm Sat & Sun. Library: 2–8pm represented: as well as the Bishop Dietrich ii . Portal of the with the main sights
Mon, 9am– 8pm Tue–Fri. & 7 ^
Sun. Closed 1 Jan, 24, 25 & 31 Dec. Bauhaus movement, the gallery 3 East choir West Reading
The collection of buildings The print collections of galleries shows works by exponents of a on the back flap. 4 the Main Altar, built in the mid- Room The Gothic twin portal
known as the Bendlerblock was in the former East and West crass realism, such as Otto Dix. The tent-like gilded exterior of the Philharmonie and Kammermusiksaal 14th century, is a stone retable depicts the Crucifixion, a St Mary’s Altar indicated and describ
depicting the Crucifixion with the
For hotels and restaurants in this area see pp492–503 and pp510–33 moving and highly expressive This late-Gothic triptych (c.1510)
saints which was transferred from group sculpture by the brilliant depicts the Virgin Mary with the Infant,
another altar. “Naumburger Meister” whose framed by Saints Barbara and Catherine,
identity remains unknown. with the Apostles in the wings.
UKGER_092-093.indd All Pages 31/10/2013 15:45 For hotels and restaurants in this area see pp492–503 and pp510–33
UKGER_154-155.indd All Pages 31/10/2013 15:46
006-007_EW_Germany.indd 6 09/10/17 12:53 pm 006-007_EW_Germany.indd 7 09/10/17 12:53 pm
Eyewitness Travel LAYERS PRINTED:
How to use this book (Source v1.2) “UK” LAYER
Date 5th November 2012
Size 125mm x 217mm

HOW T O USE THIS GUIDE  7

SOUTHERN GERM AN Y  211
MUNICH Germany Area by Area
The capital of Bavaria, Munich is sometimes called “Germany’s Introduction The
secret capital”. Lying right at the heart of Europe, the city rapidly In this guide, Germany is divided
overshadowed once powerful neighbours, such as Ingolstadt,
Augsburg and Nuremberg, to become southern Germany’s 1landscape, history and
main metropolis. With its vibrant cosmopolitan atmosphere, into 13 areas, each of which is
fine buildings, museums and shops, it is one of the country’s
most popular tourist destinations. character of each region
The citizens of Munich have been known But it is not only art that gives Munich its are described, showing covered in a separate section.
for centuries for their love of the arts. The unique charm. The country’s biggest folk
masterpieces that were created here festival, the Oktoberfest, is held each year The most interesting cities, towns,
during the Baroque and Rococo periods in Theresienwiese, where visitors to the how the area has changed
were equal to Italian and French works. town can join in the revelries or just sit and
In the 19th century, the town’s develop­ watch, ordering a plate of sauerkraut with
ment continued along Neo­Classical lines, sausages and washing it down with some through the ages. It also villages and sights in the area are
gaining for it the name of “Athens on Isar”. of the excellent Bavarian beer.
Just how appropriate the name is can be When planning a shopping trip to marked on the Area Map.
seen when strolling along Ludwigstrasse Munich visitors can be sure that its shops outlines the sights on offer
or Königsplatz or visiting the Glyptothek, are equal to those of Paris and Milan, not
which houses Ludwig I’s collection of Greek only in the breadth of their range but also
and Roman sculptures. in terms of their prices. for visitors.
In the late 19th century the Munich The town is also one of Germany’s main
Academy of Fine Arts was amongst Europe’s centres of high­tech and media industries.
best art schools. Not many cities have as Many TV stations and film studios, as well as
great a choice of world­class theatres, operas over 300 book and newspaper publishers,
and museums as can be found here in Munich. have their main offices in Munich.
164  E AS t E r n GE r MA ny S A xo n y  165
Exploring Saxony Getting Around
Leipzig and Dresden both have airports, as well as
When travelling in Saxony, a visit to Dresden is a must. excellent train and road connections with the rest Regional Map This shows the
Visitors should set aside several days to explore its of Germany. The A6 motorway runs west from
historic sights and magnificent museums. Dresden is Görlitz, through Dresden and Chemnitz; the A13
also a convenient base for excursions to the attractive links Dresden with Berlin, and the A14 with Leipzig. 2main roads and the general
Other roads, national and regional, are clearly sign­
landscapes of the Sächsische Schweiz (“Saxon posted, and all the towns described in this guide
Switzerland”) and further afield – to Bautzen, Görlitz and can also be reached by local buses.
Zittau, or to the Erzgebirge Mountains, towards Freiberg Lutherstadt
Wittenberg
and Chemnitz. Another town worth visiting, at least topography of the area. All
for a day, is Leipzig with its historic sights,
The Neo-Gothic Rathaus in Marienplatz, Munich’s central square Delitzsch Bad Düben The giant castle and cathedral complex in Meissen MUSKAU BAD
cultural events, trade fairs and exhibitions.
Interior and ceiling of the Antiquarium Hall in the Residenz Museum TORGAU
Halle Spree sights are numbered, and
Rackwitz Hoyerswerda
Eilenburg
UKGER_210-211.indd 211 31/10/2013 15:50 Wurzen Berlin Bernsdorf there are also details on how
LEIPZIG O b e r l a u s i t z
Riesa Grossenhain Niesky
Markkleeberg Oschatz Schwarze Elster
KAMENZ BAUTZEN to get there.
Zwenkau Zwickauer Mulde Y Aachen
Leisnig MORITZBURG
Colditz Freiberger Mulde MEISSEN Coswig Bischofswerda Löbau GORLITZ
M U L D E VA L L E Elbe S ACHSIS CHE
Pleisse
Rochlitz Burg Kriebstein Radebeul Stolpen Ostriz
Wechselburg SACHSEN DRESDEN L a u s i t z e r B e r g l a n d
Rochsburg Mittweida Hainichen Freital PIRNA S CHW E IZ ZITTAU
Meerane AUGUSTUSBURG FREIBERG Weesenstein Bad Schandau
Erfurt
Glauchau CHEMNITZ
Pockau
Neukirchen ZWICKAU Marienberg
The Old Town of Bautzen, situated high above Fl ha Prague
the banks of the Spree River SÄCHSISCHE SILBERSTRASSE
Reichenbach
Sights at a Glance Schneeberg
1 Leipzig pp166–7 Plauen Annaberg-
2 Torgau Auerbach Auersberg 1019m
Buchholz
3 Mulde Valley Oberwiesenthal
4 Zwickau Fichtelberg 1214m
5 Chemnitz Oelsnitz
6 Augustusburg Saddle horses grazing on paddocks near Kamenz
8 Freiberg Nurnberg V o g t l a n d
9 Meißen Boxes contain additional
0 Moritzburg Key
q Dresden pp172–81 Motorway
w Pirna information about sights.
r Kamenz Major road
t Bautzen Minor road
y Bad Muskau Scenic route
u Görlitz Main railway 0 kilometres 20
i Zittau 0 miles 20
Minor railway
Tours Country border
7 Sächsische Silberstraße International border Young musicians in the Barockgarten,
e Sächsische Schweiz Summit in Großsedlitz, near Dresden
For additional map symbols see back flap 184  East E r n G E rm an y sa x on y  185
For hotels and restaurants in this area see pp492–503 and pp510–33
climbing the 15th-century
Colour coding at the edge of Alte Wasser kunst, a tower that still has remains of its medieval for rock-climbers, walkers and
UKGER_164-165.indd All Pages 31/10/2013 15:47 churches in Jerusalem. Görlitz Zittau Mountains, a paradise
nature lovers. The town itself is
pumped Spree water up to the
town fortifications with original
splendidly preserved, with many
town. It is the symbol of Bautzen
towers and gates, including the
every page makes it easy to find and offers splendid views. Kaisertrutz, a 15th-century historic buildings, such as the
The cathedral Dom St Peter
barbican, extended in the 19th
beautiful, Baroque Noacksches
Haus (Markt 2). The Neo-
century and now home to the
is now used jointly by Catholics
each particular region. (choir) and Protestants (nave). town’s art collection. Renaissance Rathaus (town
The late-Gothic Schloss
hall) was built in 1840–45,
to a design by Carl Augustus
Ortenburg houses the
Environs
Sorbisches Museum, devoted The small town of Ostritz, Schramm. The Johanniskirche,
to Sorbian history and culture. 16 km (10 miles) to the south, by Karl Friedrich Schinkel,
has a charming original combines elements of Neo-
E Sorbisches Museum Cistercian abbey, St Marien thal Classical and Neo-Gothic styles
Ortenburg 3. Tel (03591) 42 403. (1230). Its red-and-white and is an excellent example of
Open Apr–Oct: 10am–5pm Tue–Sun; buildings are to this day Historicist architecture.
Nov–Mar: 10am–4pm Tue–Sun. Baroque Neptune fountain in inhabited by nuns, who show
Untermarkt, in Görlitz visitors around and serve food Environs
and home-brewed beer.
The charming spa town of
Detailed Information All Gothic altar from 1513 in St Annen church, in Kamenz u Görlitz Oybin, 9 km (6 miles) south
of Zittau, can be reached by
t Bautzen
r Kamenz
Road map F4. * 66,000. £ @
n Obermarkt 32 (03581-475 70). i Zittau narrow-gauge railway. Its
attractions include the hilltop
Road map F4. * 28,000. £ @
Road map F4. * 16,800. £ @
Road map F4. * 44,000. £ @
3major towns, places of interest n Pulsnitzer Str. 11 (03578 379 205). n Hauptmarkt 1 (03591-4 20 16). Sommertheater (Jul); Straßen theater- n Markt 1 (03583-75 22 00). ruins of a Gothic abbey,
_ Kultursommer (May– Sep);
immortalized by Caspar David
_ Vogelhochzeit (Jan); Lausitzer
festival (Aug). ∑ goerlitz.de
_ Hutbergfest (May). ∑ kamenz.de
_ Klosterfest (Ascension) (May); Fest
Friedrich. It is worth timing your
Fischwochen (Oct). ∑ bautzen.de
am Dreiländereck (Jun); Stadtfest (Jul).
and other tourist sights The best time for a visit to Kamenz This town is scenically situated This border town, whose ∑ zittau.eu visit for a Saturday evening in
is the end of May or June, when
summer, when you can witness
eastern part, Zgorzelec, has
Zittau is an excellent starting
the rhododendrons that cover
the procession of torch-bearing
on a high rock overhanging the
belonged to Poland since 1945,
the Hutberg (294 m/965 ft high) Spree River valley. Known boasts a long history. Its oldest point for excursions into the monks or listen to a concert.
are listed in order and Ephraim Lessing, was born in political prisoners during the Founded in 1210–20, the town
records date back to 1071.
mainly for its top-security jail for
are in flower. The poet, Gotthold
GDR era, today it enchants
flourished in the 15th and 16th
Kamenz in 1729. Although his
house no longer exists, the
visitors with its beautifully
centuries. In 1990 an extensive
numbered according to Lessingmuseum, founded in reconstructed old town. Many Doorway of the Neo-Renaissance palace in restoration plan was begun, and
1929, is devoted to his work.
signs are bilingual, German and
now visitors can see its historic
A great fire destroyed much
Bad Muskau
buildings in their former glory.
Sorbian, reflecting the fact that
of the town in 1842, but it Bautzen is the cultural capital of The charming houses in
the Regional Map. Each spared the late-Gothic the Sorbs. The winding streets y Bad Muskau Obermarkt (upper market),
with their ori ginal houses, the
the Renaissance portals and
St Marien church, a four-nave
Road map F4. * 4,170. @
15th-century structure with
city walls, the curiously crooked
decorations on houses in
n Schlossstr. 6 (035771-504 92).
entry contains information Gothic altars and other Reichen turm tower and the ∑ badmuskau.de Brüderstraße and the fasci nating
Untermarkt (lower market),
interesting features. Equally
Baroque town hall in the town
Bad Muskau, a small town and
noteworthy for their furnishings
with its vast town hall complex,
square form a very attractive
are the Gothic ex-Franciscan complex. It is also worth spa, boasts one of Saxony’s enchant everyone. The older
most beautiful parks, which has
St Annen church and the
on important sights. unusual hall-church been included in the UNESCO of Wendel Roskopf, has an Fountain with a statue of Roland, the French knight, in Zittau
wing of the town hall, the work
Katechismuskirche.
Cultural Heritage list. It was
amazing external staircase with
Originally part of the town’s created in 1815–45 by the writer Renaissance ornaments, and The Sorbs
fortification system, it has a Prince Hermann von Pückler- winds around the statue of Justice. The Sorbs, also known as the
row of loopholes on its Muskau. The Neo-Renaissance One of the most remarkable Lusatians or Wends, are an
upper storey. The old palace at its centre was churches is the imposing five- indigenous Slav minority who live
cemetery and the Gothic destroyed in World War II and nave, 15th-century Haupt­ in the eastern regions of Saxony
funereal church reopened after reconstruction stadtpfarrkirche St Peter und and Brandenburg. Their ancestors,
Begräbniskirche St Just in 2008. The English-style St Paul whose Baroque furnish- the Lusatian Slavs, were conquered
are also worth a visit. landscaped park surrounding it, ings are among the finest in by Germans in the 10th century.
As is the Museum der a nature reserve since 1952, is Saxony. Also noteworthy is the Although condemned to
Westlausitz, a museum well worth visiting. Its main Oberkirche, with an original extermination by the National
of the local region. part, on the northern shores of Gothic main altar and 15th- Socialists, today they enjoy
the Lusatian Neisse River, is in century wall paintings in the side complete cultural autonomy. The
E Lessingmuseum Poland. A joint Polish-German nave. One of Görlitz’s curiosities revival of their language and
Lessingplatz 1–3. Tel (03578) programme has opened the is the Heiliges Grab (Holy tomb), traditions is apparent in the
380 50. Open 9am–5pm Tue–Fri, Impressive Baroque entrance to the Domstift entire area to visitors from both built in 1481–1504, a group of bilingual signs in towns.
1pm–5pm Sat & Sun. sides of the border.
154  EASTERN GERM AN Y in Bautzen N A u M buRG  155 three chapels that are replicas of
For hotels and restaurants in this area see pp492–503 and pp510–33
Naumburg Dom Pulpit The richly ornamented ViSitoRS’ ChECkliSt
The impressive Cathedral of Saints Peter and Paul in UKGER_184-185.indd All Pages pulpit basket, from Practical Information 31/10/2013 15:48
Naumburg is one of the finest Gothic structures in 1466, and the Domplatz 16–17.
Germany. The present cathedral is the second to be adjoining stairs have tel (03445) 23 01 10.
been renovated.
open Mar–Oct: 9am–6pm Mon–
built on the same site; only a section of the eastern Sat, noon–6pm Sun; Nov–Feb: A visitors’ checklist for each
crypt survived of the earlier Romanesque church. 10am–4pm Mon–Sat, noon–4pm
Construction started before 1213, with the earliest parts Sun. &
including the late-Romanesque east choir, the transept of the main sights provides
and the main body. The early-Gothic west choir was
built in the mid-13th century, the newer Gothic east practical information to help
choir c.1330. The northeast towers date from the
15th century, the southwest towers from 1894.
you plan your visit.
. Main Portal
The late-Romanesque, 13th-century portal is
decorated on the left side with eagles. The
tympanum features Christ in a mandorla
Stained-Glass Windows in the Presbytery (almond-shaped area) supported by angels. Major Sights At least two
The stained-glass windows depict scenes
of the apostles of virtue and sin. Some
sections are original 13th-century work, but
two were completed in the 19th century. 4pages are dedicated to
each major sight. Historic
. Founders’
Statues
The statues of buildings are dissected in
Margrave Ekkehard and
his wife, Uta, are true
masterpieces – the artist
succeeded marvellously in order to show their interiors.
capturing the beauty and
sensitivity of his subjects. East Choir Altar
This Gothic altar features the Virgin Interesting towns or town
Mary with the Infant Jesus, surrounded
by the figures of the saints.
kEY centres have street maps
1 West choir
2 Sarcophagus of
Bishop Dietrich ii . Portal of the with the main sights
3 East choir West Reading
4 the Main Altar, built in the mid- Room The Gothic twin portal
14th century, is a stone retable depicts the Crucifixion, a St Mary’s Altar indicated and described.
depicting the Crucifixion with the moving and highly expressive This late-Gothic triptych (c.1510)
saints which was transferred from group sculpture by the brilliant depicts the Virgin Mary with the Infant,
another altar. “Naumburger Meister” whose framed by Saints Barbara and Catherine,
identity remains unknown. with the Apostles in the wings.
For hotels and restaurants in this area see pp492–503 and pp510–33
UKGER_154-155.indd All Pages 31/10/2013 15:46
006-007_EW_Germany.indd 7 09/10/17 12:53 pm

INTRODUCING


GERMANY





Discovering Germany 10–17

Putting Germany
on the Map 18–21
A Portrait of Germany 22–43

Germany Through the Year 44–49
The History of Germany 50–65













































008-009_EW_Germany.indd 8 09/10/17 12:20 pm 008-009_EW_Germany.indd 9 09/10/17 12:20 pm

INTRODUCING


GERMANY





Discovering Germany 10–17

Putting Germany
on the Map 18–21
A Portrait of Germany 22–43

Germany Through the Year 44–49
The History of Germany 50–65













































008-009_EW_Germany.indd 9 09/10/17 12:20 pm

10  INTRODUCING GERM AN Y DISC OVERING GERM AN Y  11

DISCOVERING GERMANY

The following tours have been designed to those who want to extend their stay. Next
take in as many of the country’s highlights come three five-day tours covering the north,
as possible, while keeping long-distance centre and south of Germany. Add these tours
travel to a minimum. First, there are three together to create a superb two-week tour of BalticBaltic
two-day tours of Germany’s most dynamic the country. Finally, there are two themed SeaSea
cities: Berlin, Munich and Hamburg. These itineraries tailored to specific interests. Pick, DarssDarss ZingstZingst RügenRügen
itineraries can be combined to form a week- combine and follow your favourite tours, or FischlandFischland
long tour; extra suggestions are supplied for simply dip in and out and be inspired. Bad DoberanBad Doberan StralsundStralsund
RostockRostock
LübeckLübeck WismarWismar

SchwerinSchwerin
HamburgHamburg
Elbe
Elbe Lübeck, from across the River Trave
LudwigslustLudwigslust The city skyline is famous for its seven towers.
BremenBremen
Key
Fairy-Tale Germany
Weser Weser Aller Elbe Elbe Spree BerlinBerlin Southwest Germany
Aller
Spree
Coastal Germany
HanoverHanover
Eastern Germany
BrunswickBrunswick
MagdeburgMagdeburg Bavarian Alps
BielefeldBielefeld
Nuremberg’s Kaiserburg 0 kilometres/metres 100
The buildings that make up this imperial GERMANYGERMANY CottbusCottbus 0 miles/yards 100
complex include the round Sinwellturn tower. Elbe
Elbe
DortmundDortmund Spree
EssenEssen LeipzigLeipzig
Spree
KasselKassel Weser
Five Days in Fairy- MeissenMeissen
Weser
Tale Germany Rhein Five Days around A Cultural Tour of
Rhein
CologneCologne GothaGotha WeimarWeimar DresdenDresden
• Visit Nuremberg’s Kaiserburg. ErfurtErfurt Coastal Germany Eastern Germany
BonnBonn EisenachEisenach
• Explore the scenery of ChemnitzChemnitz • Discover treasures of Baltic • Learn how Eisenach shaped
Fränkische Schweiz to GiessenGiessen Gothic in Lübeck. the life of Martin Luther.
reach Wagner’s Bayreuth. Maria LaachMaria Laach
AbbeyAbbey • Visit the magnificent ducal • Visit Weimar, spiritual capital
• Fall under the spell of the palace in Schwerin. of German high culture.
pretty town of Bamberg. MoseltalMoseltal RheintalRheintal FrankfurtFrankfurt • Marvel at medieval Wismar; • Enjoy a concert in Bach’s
Main
• Marvel at the decoration of Mosel Mosel MainzMainz Main BambergBamberg BayreuthBayreuth catch a steam train from Thomaskirche, in Leipzig.
the Residenz in Würzburg. Main Bad Doberan to the beach. • See how Meissen porcelain
Main
TrierTrier WürzburgWürzburg
• Walk the medieval streets Rhein Fränkische SchweizFränkische Schweiz • Explore the medieval port is created.
of Rothenburg ob der of Stralsund. • Discover the architecture
Rhein
Tauber and Dinkelsbühl. HeidelbergHeidelberg RothenburgRothenburg AnsbachAnsbach NurembergNuremberg • Enjoy the sea air and white and art that made Dresden
cliffs of Rügen island. the “Florence on the Elbe”.
DinkelsbühlDinkelsbühl
MaulbronnMaulbronn RegensburgRegensburg
LudwigsburgLudwigsburg
Danube
A Gourmet Tour of Southwest Germany NördlingenNördlingen Danube
Baden-Baden- StuttgartStuttgart
Isar
BadenBaden Isar Five Days in the Bavarian Alps
• Sample the best Riesling • Try Spätzle noodles in TübingenTübingen
wines in the Moseltal. Baden-Württemberg; Inn • Take a cablecar into the • Reach Herrenchiemsee
Inn
Danube
• Drink in the atmosphere select from over 200 Rhein Rhein SchwarzwaldSchwarzwald Danube MunichMunich Alps from Oberstdorf. Palace by crossing the
of the Rhine Valley and wines in Stuttgart. • Visit King Ludwig II’s Chiemsee by ferry.
sample haggis in Mainz. • Enjoy Michelin-starred Freiburg imFreiburg im ChiemseeChiemsee iconic Schloß • Tour the Alpine
BreisgauBreisgau
• Seal a love affair with food in Baiersbronn. SchlossSchloss OberammergauOberammergau Neuschwanstein. Berchtesgadener
NeuschwansteinNeuschwanstein EttalEttal
Heidelberg with a • Taste Freiburg im LindauLindau FüssenFüssen Schloss LinderhofSchloss Linderhof BerchtesgadenerBerchtesgadener • Discover Ludwig’s Land to see corkscrew
chocolate kiss. Breisgau’s cheese. BodenseeBodensee Garmisch-Garmisch- LandLand eccentricity in peaks, deep lakes and
OberstdorfOberstdorf PartenkirchenPartenkirchen Schloß Linderhof. rustic chapels.
The Siege (Defence of a Church Courtyard During the 30 Years’ War) by Carl Friedrich Lessing (1848)The Siege (Defence of a Church Courtyard During the 30 Years’ War) by Carl Friedrich Lessing (1848)
010-011_EW_Germany.indd 10 09/10/17 12:53 pm 010-011_EW_Germany.indd 11 09/10/17 12:53 pm
Eyewitness Travel LAYERS PRINTED:
Country itinerary map template “UK” LAYER
(SourceReport v1)
Date 26th November 2012
Size 125mm x 217mm

DISC OVERING GERM AN Y  11








Baltic
Sea
Darss Zingst Rügen
Fischland
Stralsund
Bad Doberan
Rostock
Lübeck Wismar
Schwerin
Hamburg
Elbe Lübeck, from across the River Trave
Ludwigslust The city skyline is famous for its seven towers.
Bremen
Key
Fairy-Tale Germany
Weser Aller Elbe Spree Berlin Southwest Germany
Coastal Germany
Hanover
Eastern Germany
Brunswick
Magdeburg Bavarian Alps
Bielefeld
0 kilometres/metres 100
GERMANY Elbe Cottbus 0 miles/yards 100
Dortmund Spree
Essen Leipzig
Kassel Weser
Meissen
Rhein
Eastern Germany
Cologne Gotha Weimar Dresden Five Days around A Cultural Tour of
Coastal Germany
Eisenach Erfurt
Bonn Chemnitz • Discover treasures of Baltic • Learn how Eisenach shaped
Giessen Gothic in Lübeck. the life of Martin Luther.
Maria Laach
Abbey • Visit the magnificent ducal • Visit Weimar, spiritual capital
palace in Schwerin. of German high culture.
Rheintal
Moseltal Frankfurt • Marvel at medieval Wismar; • Enjoy a concert in Bach’s
Mosel Mainz Main Main Bamberg Bayreuth catch a steam train from Thomaskirche, in Leipzig.
Trier Würzburg Bad Doberan to the beach. • See how Meissen porcelain
Fränkische Schweiz • Explore the medieval port is created.
of Stralsund. • Discover the architecture
Rhein
Heidelberg Rothenburg Ansbach Nuremberg • Enjoy the sea air and white and art that made Dresden
cliffs of Rügen island. the “Florence on the Elbe”.
Dinkelsbühl
Maulbronn Regensburg
Ludwigsburg
Nördlingen Danube
Baden- Stuttgart
Baden Isar Five Days in the Bavarian Alps
Tübingen
• Take a cablecar into the • Reach Herrenchiemsee
Inn
Rhein Schwarzwald Danube Munich • Visit King Ludwig II’s Palace by crossing the
Alps from Oberstdorf.
Chiemsee by ferry.
Freiburg im iconic Schloß • Tour the Alpine
Breisgau Oberammergau Chiemsee
Schloss Neuschwanstein. Berchtesgadener
Neuschwanstein Ettal
Lindau • Discover Ludwig’s Land to see corkscrew
Bodensee Füssen Schloss Linderhof Berchtesgadener peaks, deep lakes and
Land
Garmisch- eccentricity in
Oberstdorf Partenkirchen Schloß Linderhof. rustic chapels.
The Siege (Defence of a Church Courtyard During the 30 Years’ War) by Carl Friedrich Lessing (1848)
010-011_EW_Germany.indd 11 09/10/17 12:53 pm

12  INTRODUCING GERM AN Y DISC OVERING GERM AN Y  13


Two Days in Berlin Two Days in Munich in the Residenz (pp220–21).
The former palace of Bavarian
kings is so large it takes two
Berlin is a rewarding city to Munich is a popular tourist tours just to see the half open
explore, with a fascinating destination and the to the public. Check if any seats
history and superb nightlife. gateway to Bavaria. are available for a night at its
magical Cuvilliés-Theater.
• Arriving Berlin has two air- • Arriving Munich airport is
ports. Tegel, 8 km (5 miles) served by the S-Bahn and
from the city centre, can be various buses. Taxis are also Day 2
reached by bus or taxi; buses available. From Munich there Morning The kings reveal their
also connect with the are good train connections impeccable taste again through
U-bahn service. Schönefeld with the rest of Europe. their gallery, hung in the Alte
is 20 km (12 miles) south of Pinakothek (pp226–7). You can
the city and well served by easily lose the morning among The monumental organ in Hamburg’s Michaeliskirche
trains, S-bahn and buses its Old Masters, with the most
that link with the U-bahn. Day 1 comprehensive lesson in astonishingly ornate Amalien- Master Bertram, Cranach and
The imposing steel-and-glass dome of the Morning There’s no finer German art history you’ll ever burg hunting lodge in Caspar David Friedrich. There’s
Reichstag in Berlin introduction to Munich than receive, or among more modern the gardens. modern art in the adjacent
Marienplatz (pp214–15), boxed works in the neighbouring Galerie der Gegenwart, and arts
Day 1 Afternoon Walk off lunch in the in by monuments of civic pride: Neue Pinakothek (p224) and To extend your trip… and crafts in the Museum für
Morning Start at the icons of Tiergarten (p91), then pore over the Neues Rathaus (p219), its Pinakothek der Moderne Discover Dachau (p268), a Kunst und Gewerbe, on the
a reunified Germany: spiral up the Old Masters in the Gemälde- façade a carnival of statues, the (p224) galleries. Make time to pretty medieval town that is south side of the railway station.
inside the glass dome of the galerie (pp94–5) or crafts from Altes Rathaus (pp218–19) and walk to nearby Königsplatz, now synonymous with the
Reichstag (p97), then circuit the Middle Ages to the present the Michaelskirche (p216). where the Neo-Classical Holocaust, or relax with a Day 2
the Brandenburger Tor (p73). day in the nearby Kunst gewer- For a mid-morning snack of Glyptothek (p225) and beer at Andechs (p268). Morning The port that made
Beyond is Unter den Linden bemuseum (p93). For more Weissewurst, head south to Propyläen (p225) reveal why Hamburg’s fortune is at its most
(pp74–5), the leafy promenade astonishing crafts manship, take the Viktualienmarkt (p218). The Munich was nicknamed “Athens evocative in Speicherstadt
that reveals the swagger of the U-Bahn west from Potsdamer icon on souvenir beer tankards on Isar”. The nearby Staatliche Two Days in Hamburg (p439); merchants hoisted
19th-century Prussia through Platz (p96) to reach beautiful is the soaring Frauenkirche Antikensammlungen (p225) goods direct from its canals into
monuments like the Neue Schloß Charlottenburg (pp102– (p217), unmissable because of displays Ludwig I’s antiquities. the 19th-century warehouses,
Wache (p75) and nearby 3). Or admire the mosaics in the its domed spires; however, the Germany’s second-largest some converted to museums.
St-Hedwigs-Kathedrale (p74). war-damaged Kaiser-Wilhelm- highlights of Munich’s sacred Afternoon The Deutsches city is full of attractive Older wharves south are being
Friedrich the Great ordered the Gedächtnis-Kirche (p90), the architecture are the nearby Museum (pp232–3) is unbeat- parks and varied transformed in a development
Französischer Dom (p76) to be symbol of West Berlin, on the Bürgersaal (p216) and the able for rainy days, with 20,000 architectural styles. known as HafenCity (p438) –
built on an Italianate square – city’s retail high street, Ku’damm Asamkirche (p217), the latter exhibits spread over seven • Arriving The airport, 8 km the Elbephilharmonie concert
this is a lovely spot for lunch. (p91) – time, at last, for some the most enchanting example floors dedicated to science (5 miles) from the city, is well hall is especially striking. Its
shopping (pp110–11). of Bavarian Rococo you’ll see. and arts. Otherwise, escape served by buses, the S-Bahn waterside restaurants or those
Afternoon The handsome the busy city streets and head and trains. There are also in the city’s original merchant
Schloßbrücke (p76) hints at the To extend your trip… Afternoon After the return walk to Schloß Nymphenburg good train and ferry services. street, Deichstraße, are ideal
cultural feast to be found on Wander through bohemian via Marienplatz, stop for a beer (pp228–9), like Electress Henriette- for lunch.
Museum Island (pp78–9). The Berlin at Prenzlauer Berg at the Hofbräuhaus (p219), Adelaide. Her portrait is not
Pergamonmuseum (pp80–81), (p105), or escape the city on Munich’s most famous beer hall one of those in the Gallery Afternoon Walk west along the
with its 2nd-century BC altar, the beaches of Strandbad and the site of Hitler’s infamous of Beauties, one highlight of Day 1 port (p442), perhaps stopping
holds a remark able collection of Wannsee (p108) or the Beer Hall Putsch. Suitably this Italianate garden palace. Morning Decorated with to explore the museum ships
antiqui ties. Afterwards, stop in at lovely Park Sanssouci fortified, discover the head- Others are the Festsaal, which statues of local heroes and the Rickmer Rickmers and Cap San
the Deutscher Dom (p76), before (pp140–41), in Potsdam. spinning array of architecture, tempers Rococo opulence trades that made Hamburg’s Diego. The goal is Landungs­
a quiet stroll into the picturesque artwork and treasure on display with playful detail, and the fortune, the vast town hall on brücken (p442), from where
Nikolaiviertel to sense the Rathausmarkt (p438) perfectly fascinating boat tours around
capital’s medieval roots (p84). expresses the civic pride of Europe’s second-largest harbour
this city-state. On Hamburg’s depart at regular intervals.
Day 2 shopping street, Mönckeberg- Hamburg ships imported the
Morning After exploring Berlin’s straße, St Petrikirche (p438) is tropical woods that were
historic core, the focus shifts to eloquent about past wealth; transformed into the Baroque
more recent history. Checkpoint chic boutique shops on Neuer fittings of the Michaeliskirche
Charlie (p84), the east–west Wall and Große Bleichen, north (p442), also worth a visit for
border immortalized by many of the Rathaus, reveal current the view of the port from its
Cold War thrillers, is an essential prosperity. Relax with a boat trip observation tower. By now the
stop. The darkest period in on the Binnenalster lake (p438). nightlife will be warming up in
German history is chillingly laid St Pauli (pp442–3), the former
bare in the Jüdisches Museum Afternoon Walk around dockers’ drinking quarter.
(pp84–5), while the wave-like the Binnenalster lake to the Made famous by The Beatles
Holocaust Denkmal (p74) Kunsthalle (pp440–41), which and its red-light district, St Pauli
represents the scale of the Jewish The awe-inspiring interior of the features paintings by German has now been gentrified for
tragedy in stark sculptural form. The entrance to Schloß Charlottenburg in Berlin Michaelskirche, Munich artists such as the medieval tourist-friendly titillation.




012-017_EW_Germany.indd 12 09/10/17 12:53 pm 012-017_EW_Germany.indd 13 09/10/17 12:53 pm
Eyewitness Travel LAYERS PRINTED: Not the right Mi-
Country itinerary template “UK” LAYER
(SourceReport v1) chaelskirche
Date 15th January 2013
Size 125mm x 217mm

DISC OVERING GERM AN Y  13


in the Residenz (pp220–21).
The former palace of Bavarian
kings is so large it takes two
tours just to see the half open
to the public. Check if any seats
are available for a night at its
magical Cuvilliés-Theater.
Day 2
Morning The kings reveal their
impeccable taste again through
their gallery, hung in the Alte
Pinakothek (pp226–7). You can
easily lose the morning among The monumental organ in Hamburg’s Michaeliskirche
its Old Masters, with the most
comprehensive lesson in astonishingly ornate Amalien- Master Bertram, Cranach and
German art history you’ll ever burg hunting lodge in Caspar David Friedrich. There’s
receive, or among more modern the gardens. modern art in the adjacent
works in the neighbouring Galerie der Gegenwart, and arts
Neue Pinakothek (p224) and To extend your trip… and crafts in the Museum für
Pinakothek der Moderne Discover Dachau (p268), a Kunst und Gewerbe, on the
(p224) galleries. Make time to pretty medieval town that is south side of the railway station.
walk to nearby Königsplatz, now synonymous with the
where the Neo-Classical Holocaust, or relax with a Day 2
Glyptothek (p225) and beer at Andechs (p268). Morning The port that made
Propyläen (p225) reveal why Hamburg’s fortune is at its most
Munich was nicknamed “Athens evocative in Speicherstadt
on Isar”. The nearby Staatliche Two Days in Hamburg (p439); merchants hoisted
Antikensammlungen (p225) goods direct from its canals into
displays Ludwig I’s antiquities. the 19th-century warehouses,
Germany’s second-largest some converted to museums.
Afternoon The Deutsches city is full of attractive Older wharves south are being
Museum (pp232–3) is unbeat- parks and varied transformed in a development
able for rainy days, with 20,000 architectural styles. known as HafenCity (p438) –
exhibits spread over seven • Arriving The airport, 8 km the Elbephilharmonie concert
floors dedicated to science (5 miles) from the city, is well hall is especially striking. Its
and arts. Otherwise, escape served by buses, the S-Bahn waterside restaurants or those
the busy city streets and head and trains. There are also in the city’s original merchant
to Schloß Nymphenburg good train and ferry services. street, Deichstraße, are ideal
(pp228–9), like Electress Henriette- for lunch.
Adelaide. Her portrait is not
one of those in the Gallery Afternoon Walk west along the
of Beauties, one highlight of Day 1 port (p442), perhaps stopping
this Italianate garden palace. Morning Decorated with to explore the museum ships
Others are the Festsaal, which statues of local heroes and the Rickmer Rickmers and Cap San
tempers Rococo opulence trades that made Hamburg’s Diego. The goal is Landungs­
with playful detail, and the fortune, the vast town hall on brücken (p442), from where
Rathausmarkt (p438) perfectly fascinating boat tours around
expresses the civic pride of Europe’s second-largest harbour
this city-state. On Hamburg’s depart at regular intervals.
shopping street, Mönckeberg- Hamburg ships imported the
straße, St Petrikirche (p438) is tropical woods that were
eloquent about past wealth; transformed into the Baroque
chic boutique shops on Neuer fittings of the Michaeliskirche
Wall and Große Bleichen, north (p442), also worth a visit for
of the Rathaus, reveal current the view of the port from its
prosperity. Relax with a boat trip observation tower. By now the
on the Binnenalster lake (p438). nightlife will be warming up in
St Pauli (pp442–3), the former
Afternoon Walk around dockers’ drinking quarter.
the Binnenalster lake to the Made famous by The Beatles
Kunsthalle (pp440–41), which and its red-light district, St Pauli
The awe-inspiring interior of the features paintings by German has now been gentrified for
Michaelskirche, Munich artists such as the medieval tourist-friendly titillation.




Not the right Mi-
012-017_EW_Germany.indd 13 09/10/17 12:53 pm
chaelskirche

14  INTRODUCING GERM AN Y DISC OVERING GERM AN Y  15


Five Days in Fairy- two centuries and is still in
Tale Germany use even though Wagner
dismissed it as too small.
• Airports Arrive and depart
from Nuremberg airport. Day 3: Bamberg
• Transport It is easy to make UNESCO-listed Bamberg
day trips to all destinations (pp252–5) is immediately
from Nuremberg. Trains striking: its symphony of superb
connect the towns in an artistry, beautiful buildings and
hour or so, except Frankische small-town charm emerged
Schweiz. Dinkelsbühl unscathed from World War II.
requires a change on to a Must-sees here are the art on
bus from Rothenburg. Domplatz – the Cathedral
(pp254–5), plus the Neue Picturesque house on a bridge in Bamberg The luxuriant gardens of Schloß Linderhof, dotted with statuary
• Booking ahead Residenz,
Würzburg. Residenz und Staatsgalerie –
and the Altes Rathaus, which A Week around dukes resided in Ludwigslust A Week in the play that takes place every
leapfrogs the Regnitz river Coastal Germany (p476). Money was tight, which Bavarian Alps decade (the next one will be in
via an islet. Must-dos include is why the stucco here is 2020), it also appeals for wood
Day 1: Nuremberg having a glass of Rauchbier • Airports Arrive at Hamburg actually papier-mâché. • Airports Arrive and leave carvings and colourful frescoes.
Albrecht-Dürer-Haus (p263), (smoked beer) at Schlenkerla. Airport and depart from from Munich.
Sebalduskirche (p262) and the Lübeck, Hamburg or Day 5: Wismar and • Transport Füssen and Day 5: Ettal to Garmisch-
wishing fountain on pretty Day 4: Würzburg Berlin airports. Bad Doberan Garmisch-Partenkirchen Partenkirchen
Hauptmarkt (p262) all testify Unlike Bamberg, Würzburg • Transport Trains connect Maritime flavour returns in are accessible by train from Tiny Ettal (p284) sits in awe of
to Nuremberg’s (Nürnberg) (pp248–51) took a direct hit the towns in an hour or so, Wismar (pp476–7) – the size Munich; other destinations alpine peaks and a Benedictine
tradition for craftsmanship. For during World War II, but except the Fischland, Darß of the Markt and merchants’ are served by local bus. abbey with a splendid Rococo
the best panoramic views, climb restoration has revived its and Zingst peninsula, for Georgenkirche testifies to the Chiemsee (Prien station) interior. More theatrical still is
to the top of the 12th-century UNESCO World Heritage Site, which you will need a car. wealth of this medieval port. requires a return to Munich the setting of Schloß Linderhof
Sinwellturm, at the Kaiserburg the prince-bishops’ Residenz Boats to Hiddensee run The Nikolaikirche retains via train. Berchtesgaden (p285), where eccentric King
(p263). For lunch, snack on (pp250–51) by star architect from Stralsund from April medieval frescoes and altar­ requires a change at Ludwig played out his Sun King
Nuremberg’s stubby Bratwürste, Balthasar Neumann. Elegant to October. pieces. Finer still are those of Freilassing. fantasies. From here it’s a short
ordered three in a bun (“Drei im and giddily opulent by turns, the Cistercian Münster in Bad • Booking ahead Schloß drive to Germany’s most cele-
Weckla”) from the food stalls this 17th-century palace is fit Doberan (p477), its interior a Neuschwanstein, Schloß brated alpine resort, Garmisch-
located on Hauptmarkt. for a ball. Day 1 and 2: Hamburg treasure trove. If there’s time, Linderhof. Partenkirchen (p284), for a ride
See the city itinerary on p13. embark for a jaunt to the beach up the Zugspitze, Germany’s
Day 2: Fränkische Schweiz Day 5: Rothenburg on the “Molli” steam train. highest mountain.
to Bayreuth Slip into a timewarp back to Day 3: Lübeck
A driving tour in the Fränkische medieval Germany at Rothen- Whether you’re after culture, Day 6: Rostock to Stralsund Day 1 and 2: Munich Day 6: Chiemsee
Schweiz (p247) reveals scenery burg (pp266–7). A local legend architecture or simply small- Rostock (p480) feels gritty after See the city itinerary on pp12–13. Chiemsee (pp282–3), Bavaria’s
perfectly suited to Snow White says the town was spared town charm, Lübeck (pp466–9) the small towns before. Heavily largest lake, is a lovely place to
and the Seven Dwarfs. Forchheim destruction in the Thirty Years’ is the place. The Backsteingotik bombed in 1942, this port town Day 3: Lindau and while away a day. Take a boat to
has a fine medieval core, tiny War because its mayor downed brick architecture of its Hanseatic warrants a stop for its Rathaus Oberammergau Herreninsel to discover the last
Tüchersfeld could double as a 3.25 litres (7 pints) of wine in heyday set the blue print for and Marienkirche. The Fischland, Lindau (p288), on the Bodensee, of King Ludwig II’s delusional
Disney film set, and Pottenstein one gulp. In summer, tour early the entire region: highlights Darss and Zingst peninsula is charming and uncomplicated. monuments, Versailles-inspired
boasts the region’s oldest or at dusk (when it’s pure magic) include the Holstentor, Rathaus (p480) offers a superb route west. Stroll the harbour, guarded by Herrenchiemsee Palace, and to
castle. Bayreuth (pp256–7) is to avoid the crowds. Dinkels- and soaring Marienkirche, all Ahrenshoop, a former artists’ lighthouses, gaze to the Alps Fraueninsel for its Benedictine
synonymous with Wagnerian bühl (p258) is another gem, expressions of civic pride. village, is now a chic escape for on the horizon, then discover heritage. There are good walks
opera; however, the Mark- while Nördlingen (pp258–9) While you’re in town, visit the city-slickers because of its fine the only frescoes by Hans and cycle rides on the lake
gräfliches Opernhaus (p256) and Ansbach (p259) are also St Annen-Museum for its altar- beach and galleries. In UNESCO- Holbein the Elder in the church shores, or spend an afternoon
pre-dates this composer by within reach by car. pieces and sample delicious listed Stralsund (p481), go to of St Peter. For more fabulous on the beach at Chieming.
Lübeck marzipan from the Alter Markt and compare alpine views, take a cablecar
Niederegger patisserie. the architecture with Lübeck. up Mount Nebelhorn, near Day 7: Berchtesgadener
Oberstdorf (p289). Land
Day 4: Schwerin and Day 7: Rügen Corkscrew peaks, deep lakes
Ludwigslust Sea, sand, spa resorts and steam Day 4: Füssen to and rustic chapels create
Encircled by lakes and well trains contribute to the holiday Oberameergau the splendid landscape of
worth a diversion inland, vibe of Rügen (pp482–3). A Explore the cobbled lanes of Berchtesgadener Land (pp280–
Schwerin (pp474–5) is the popular resort since Caspar David Füssen (p289) before a visit 81). Take a boat trip on the
capital of Mecklenburg-Lower Friedrich painted the white cliffs to Bavarian King Ludwig II’s Königsee to see the pilgrimage
Pomerania. Tour the fairy-tale of the Jasmund Peninsula, today Schloß Neuschwanstein chapel of St Bartholomä, then
Schloß, then discover the it is a national park. For a day on (pp286–7), the embodiment visit the cosy village of Ramsau
dukes’ fine taste in art in the the beach, base yourself at Binz of fairy-tale Germany. You can’t an der Ache. Finally, ascend
Staatliches Museum and the or slow down on Hiddensee, beat Oberammergau (p284) to the Eagle’s Nest, Hitler’s
Dom. Before they built the where transport is by bike or for postcard-pretty alpine mountain retreat; dedicated
Panoramic view of the city of Würzburg, with the River Main flowing through it castle here, the Mecklenburg horse and cart. charm. Famous for a passion buses go from Obersalzberg.
For practical information on travelling around Germany, see pp552–9



012-017_EW_Germany.indd 14 09/10/17 12:53 pm 012-017_EW_Germany.indd 15 09/10/17 12:53 pm
Eyewitness Travel LAYERS PRINTED:
Country itinerary template “UK” LAYER
(SourceReport v1)
Date 15th January 2013
Size 125mm x 217mm

DISC OVERING GERM AN Y  15
















The luxuriant gardens of Schloß Linderhof, dotted with statuary
dukes resided in Ludwigslust A Week in the play that takes place every
(p476). Money was tight, which Bavarian Alps decade (the next one will be in
is why the stucco here is 2020), it also appeals for wood
actually papier-mâché. • Airports Arrive and leave carvings and colourful frescoes.
from Munich.
Day 5: Wismar and • Transport Füssen and Day 5: Ettal to Garmisch-
Bad Doberan Garmisch-Partenkirchen Partenkirchen
Maritime flavour returns in are accessible by train from Tiny Ettal (p284) sits in awe of
Wismar (pp476–7) – the size Munich; other destinations alpine peaks and a Benedictine
of the Markt and merchants’ are served by local bus. abbey with a splendid Rococo
Georgenkirche testifies to the Chiemsee (Prien station) interior. More theatrical still is
wealth of this medieval port. requires a return to Munich the setting of Schloß Linderhof
The Nikolaikirche retains via train. Berchtesgaden (p285), where eccentric King
medieval frescoes and altar­ requires a change at Ludwig played out his Sun King
pieces. Finer still are those of Freilassing. fantasies. From here it’s a short
the Cistercian Münster in Bad • Booking ahead Schloß drive to Germany’s most cele-
Doberan (p477), its interior a Neuschwanstein, Schloß brated alpine resort, Garmisch-
treasure trove. If there’s time, Linderhof. Partenkirchen (p284), for a ride
embark for a jaunt to the beach up the Zugspitze, Germany’s
on the “Molli” steam train. highest mountain.
Day 6: Rostock to Stralsund Day 1 and 2: Munich Day 6: Chiemsee
Rostock (p480) feels gritty after See the city itinerary on pp12–13. Chiemsee (pp282–3), Bavaria’s
the small towns before. Heavily largest lake, is a lovely place to
bombed in 1942, this port town Day 3: Lindau and while away a day. Take a boat to
warrants a stop for its Rathaus Oberammergau Herreninsel to discover the last
and Marienkirche. The Fischland, Lindau (p288), on the Bodensee, of King Ludwig II’s delusional
Darss and Zingst peninsula is charming and uncomplicated. monuments, Versailles-inspired
(p480) offers a superb route west. Stroll the harbour, guarded by Herrenchiemsee Palace, and to
Ahrenshoop, a former artists’ lighthouses, gaze to the Alps Fraueninsel for its Benedictine
village, is now a chic escape for on the horizon, then discover heritage. There are good walks
city-slickers because of its fine the only frescoes by Hans and cycle rides on the lake
beach and galleries. In UNESCO- Holbein the Elder in the church shores, or spend an afternoon
listed Stralsund (p481), go to of St Peter. For more fabulous on the beach at Chieming.
the Alter Markt and compare alpine views, take a cablecar
the architecture with Lübeck. up Mount Nebelhorn, near Day 7: Berchtesgadener
Oberstdorf (p289). Land
Day 7: Rügen Corkscrew peaks, deep lakes
Sea, sand, spa resorts and steam Day 4: Füssen to and rustic chapels create
trains contribute to the holiday Oberameergau the splendid landscape of
vibe of Rügen (pp482–3). A Explore the cobbled lanes of Berchtesgadener Land (pp280–
popular resort since Caspar David Füssen (p289) before a visit 81). Take a boat trip on the
Friedrich painted the white cliffs to Bavarian King Ludwig II’s Königsee to see the pilgrimage
of the Jasmund Peninsula, today Schloß Neuschwanstein chapel of St Bartholomä, then
it is a national park. For a day on (pp286–7), the embodiment visit the cosy village of Ramsau
the beach, base yourself at Binz of fairy-tale Germany. You can’t an der Ache. Finally, ascend
or slow down on Hiddensee, beat Oberammergau (p284) to the Eagle’s Nest, Hitler’s
where transport is by bike or for postcard-pretty alpine mountain retreat; dedicated
horse and cart. charm. Famous for a passion buses go from Obersalzberg.




012-017_EW_Germany.indd 15 09/10/17 12:53 pm

16  INTRODUCING GERM AN Y DISC OVERING GERM AN Y  17


A Cultural Tour of To extend your trip… Day 7: Dresden
Eastern Germany The Thüringerwaldbahn Stroll around the Baroque
tram pootles through pretty buildings that earned Dresden
• Duration 7 days – but can countryside before arriving (pp172–81) the moniker of
be extended to a 12­day at Friedrichroda, in the “Florence on the Elbe”: the
tour with extra suggestions. Thuringian Forest (pp194–5). Frauenkirche, Brühlsche Terrasse
• Airports Arrive at Berlin, and Hofkirche. Finest of all is the
Leipzig­Halle or Dresden Zwinger (pp178–9). Saxony
international airports and Day 3: Erfurt Elector Augustus the Strong
depart from Dresden Erfurt (pp196–7) is a historic held alfresco balls here; today
International Airport. town with a lively university. there is an excellent gallery. For
Admire the Romanesque and more of Augustus’s glittering
• Transport Trains connect
all destinations in the tour medieval artworks in the Dom court, visit his Grünes Gewölbe The statue of Emperor Wilhelm von Rumann on Karlsplatz, Stuttgart
in 2 hours or less. This tour St Marien and St Severi­Kirche, treasury in the Residenzschloß.
can also be done by car, then browse the craft shops on Day 2: Maria Laach and Day 4: Maulbronn,
but public transport will the Krämerbrücke. Next, visit a To extend your trip… the Rheintal Ludwigsburg and Stuttgart
be easier. If you choose monastic cell in the Augustiner­ The tower of Weimar’s Stadtschloß The bizarre landscapes of Stop by the Maria Laach abbey Tour the UNESCO-listed
to start in Berlin, note kloster, where Martin Luther Sächsische Schweiz (pp362–3) before taking a trip monastery in Maulbronn
that it’s a train journey of studied. The Angermuseum Day 5: Leipzig (pp182–3) and Schloß down the Rhine Valley (pp358–9), (pp306–7) or Ludwigsburg
approximately 3 hours and holds a collection of decorative The fast­paced city of Leipzig Moritzburg (p171) are easily famous for its castles and white (pp310–11), then enjoy the local
30 minutes to Eisenach. arts and paintings. (pp166–7) has a mercantile zeal accessible on day trips. wines. Relax in a Weinstube (bar/ specialities Spätzle noodles with
that overshadows its cultural tavern); those in Bacharach cheese and Maul taschen (large
To extend your trip… weight as a former home of (p359) tend to be housed in old ravioli). Stuttgart (pp312–17) is
An unknown young Bach, who is buried in the timbered buildings, whereas in as synonymous with Weinstüben
This route follows in the organist named Johann Thomaskirche (where he was A Gourmet Tour of Mainz (pp352–5) they’re often in as Munich is with beer halls –
footsteps of giants of German Sebastian Bach first shocked chorister), and of Goethe, who Southwest Germany smarter venues. Try the regional Stetter (Rosen straße 32)
culture through the sights congregations with his immortalized the Auerbachs delicacy of Pfälzer Saumagen serves 200 local wines.
and museums of Thuringia fugal compositions in Keller restaurant in Faust. The • Duration 7 days – but can (sow’s stomach stuffed with
and Saxony. For background pretty Arnstadt (p194). Grassimuseum holds a world­ be extended to a 10-day sausage, potatoes and herbs). Day 5: Baden-Baden
on Germany’s cultural heroes, class collection of decorative tour with extra suggestions. You can be sure of good-
see pp30–35. If you want to arts; alternatively, there’s • Airports Arrive in and To extend your trip… quality food in Baden-Baden
extend your trip, spend a Day 4: Weimar painting and sculpture in the depart from either Frankfurt Frankfurt (pp378–83) is (p305), the “summer capital of
day or two in Berlin (p12) Weimar (pp198–9) is the Museum der Bildenden Künste. or Stuttgart airports. renowned for its Ebbelwoi Europe”. This is also the queen
before heading to Eisenach. birthplace of the Enlightenment • Transport This tour is most (cider). Enjoy it in a tavern in of German spa resorts. Spend
and the spiritual capital of Day 6: Meissen easily done by car. If you the Sachsenhausen district. an afternoon in the health-
Day 1: Eisenach German culture. Discover its In Meissen (p171), the tangled choose to arrive in Frankurt giving waters of the Friedrichs-
Meet three of this tour’s figure­ sophistication in the ducal lanes in the old town are fun to Airport, you might want to bad, then treat yourself to a
heads in Eisenach (pp190–91). Stadtschloß and the Herzogin­ get lost in; then, head up to the spend two days in the city Day 3: Heidelberg sumptuous meal.
Excommunicated Martin Luther Anna­Amalia Bibliothek, then see Albrechtsburg complex before before hiring a car and The must-see of the university
translated the New Testament its private face in the home of visiting the porcelain factory for driving to Trier. town of Heidelberg (pp300–3) To extend your trip…
in the Wartburg in 1521; Lucas Goethe, who worked as a court which the town is synonymous. is its castle. Tour its romantic Tübingen (p320) is a lovely
Cranach the Elder painted his adviser to Duke Carl August. The first china outside Asia was shell by day, then return at night university town and a
portrait, hung in its small Tour the houses of Schiller and produced here in 1710. Learn for seasonal German fare at gateway to Schwäbische
museum; and Johann Sebastian Liszt, then see the last artwork how on factory tours, and see This tour explores Rheinland- Schloßweinstube. In between, Alb (pp318–19).
Bach was born in a townhouse by Cranach in the St Peter und the extravagant 3.5­m (11.4­ft) Palatinate and Baden- enjoy a Studenten kuss (students’
in the old town in 1685. The St Paul church. Finally, relax high decoration that graced the Württemberg, including the kiss), a chocolate praline made
story of his life as a tetchy court with a stroll in Park an der Ilm. dining table of Saxony Electors. Schwarzwald, to uncover the in Cafe Knösel on Haspelgasse Day 6: Schwarzwald
composer is told in a museum. food and wine of southwest since 1830. Schwarzwälder Schinken (local
Germany. If you are travelling ham), trout and Schwarzwälder
Day 2: Gotha in late summer/early autumn, Kirschtorte (Black Forest gâteau
Marvel at the power of look out for wine and harvest laced with cherry liqueur) are
Thuringia’s ducal dynasties as festivals in the region. the delicacies of the Schwarz-
you stroll around old­town wald (pp330–31). Stop off at
Gotha (p193), laid at the feet of Day 1: Trier and Moseltal Hangloch-Wasserfall for
the majestic Schloß Friedenstein. The Romans left behind fine truly spectacular views (p331).
The dukes expressed their monuments in Trier (pp344–7)
court’s magnificence through and a tradition of viticulture on Day 7: Freiburg im Breisgau
culture, gathering superb the south-facing slopes of the Kick back in the pretty town of
Old Masters, antiquities and Moseltal (p349). Follow the river Freiburg im Breisgau (pp328–9).
treasures in a palace museum beneath vineyards that produce See the Münster and either
and building one of Europe’s elegant Rieslings, pausing at buy a cheese sandwich from
first Baroque court theatres. the world’s steepest vineyard, a stall on Münsterplatz, or join
Leave time to discover the Bremmer Calmont (www. students in the cafés of its
palace gardens. The imposing Schloß Friedenstein, in Gotha, located above the old town bremmer-calmont.de). Dresden’s magnificent Frauenkirche cobbled lanes.
For practical information on travelling around Germany, see pp552–9



012-017_EW_Germany.indd 16 09/10/17 12:53 pm 012-017_EW_Germany.indd 17 09/10/17 12:53 pm
Eyewitness Travel LAYERS PRINTED:
Country itinerary template “UK” LAYER
(SourceReport v1)
Date 15th January 2013
Size 125mm x 217mm

DISC OVERING GERM AN Y  17


Day 7: Dresden
Stroll around the Baroque
buildings that earned Dresden
(pp172–81) the moniker of
“Florence on the Elbe”: the
Frauenkirche, Brühlsche Terrasse
and Hofkirche. Finest of all is the
Zwinger (pp178–9). Saxony
Elector Augustus the Strong
held alfresco balls here; today
there is an excellent gallery. For
more of Augustus’s glittering
court, visit his Grünes Gewölbe The statue of Emperor Wilhelm von Rumann on Karlsplatz, Stuttgart
treasury in the Residenzschloß.
Day 2: Maria Laach and Day 4: Maulbronn,
To extend your trip… the Rheintal Ludwigsburg and Stuttgart
The bizarre landscapes of Stop by the Maria Laach abbey Tour the UNESCO-listed
Sächsische Schweiz (pp362–3) before taking a trip monastery in Maulbronn
(pp182–3) and Schloß down the Rhine Valley (pp358–9), (pp306–7) or Ludwigsburg
Moritzburg (p171) are easily famous for its castles and white (pp310–11), then enjoy the local
accessible on day trips. wines. Relax in a Weinstube (bar/ specialities Spätzle noodles with
tavern); those in Bacharach cheese and Maul taschen (large
(p359) tend to be housed in old ravioli). Stuttgart (pp312–17) is
timbered buildings, whereas in as synonymous with Weinstüben
A Gourmet Tour of Mainz (pp352–5) they’re often in as Munich is with beer halls –
Southwest Germany smarter venues. Try the regional Stetter (Rosen straße 32)
delicacy of Pfälzer Saumagen serves 200 local wines.
• Duration 7 days – but can (sow’s stomach stuffed with
be extended to a 10-day sausage, potatoes and herbs). Day 5: Baden-Baden
tour with extra suggestions. You can be sure of good-
• Airports Arrive in and To extend your trip… quality food in Baden-Baden
depart from either Frankfurt Frankfurt (pp378–83) is (p305), the “summer capital of
or Stuttgart airports. renowned for its Ebbelwoi Europe”. This is also the queen
• Transport This tour is most (cider). Enjoy it in a tavern in of German spa resorts. Spend
easily done by car. If you the Sachsenhausen district. an afternoon in the health-
choose to arrive in Frankurt giving waters of the Friedrichs-
bad, then treat yourself to a
Airport, you might want to
spend two days in the city Day 3: Heidelberg sumptuous meal.
The must-see of the university
before hiring a car and
driving to Trier. town of Heidelberg (pp300–3) To extend your trip…
is its castle. Tour its romantic Tübingen (p320) is a lovely
shell by day, then return at night university town and a
for seasonal German fare at gateway to Schwäbische
This tour explores Rheinland- Schloßweinstube. In between, Alb (pp318–19).
Palatinate and Baden- enjoy a Studenten kuss (students’
Württemberg, including the kiss), a chocolate praline made
Schwarzwald, to uncover the in Cafe Knösel on Haspelgasse Day 6: Schwarzwald
food and wine of southwest since 1830. Schwarzwälder Schinken (local
Germany. If you are travelling ham), trout and Schwarzwälder
in late summer/early autumn, Kirschtorte (Black Forest gâteau
look out for wine and harvest laced with cherry liqueur) are
festivals in the region. the delicacies of the Schwarz-
wald (pp330–31). Stop off at
Day 1: Trier and Moseltal Hangloch-Wasserfall for
The Romans left behind fine truly spectacular views (p331).
monuments in Trier (pp344–7)
and a tradition of viticulture on Day 7: Freiburg im Breisgau
the south-facing slopes of the Kick back in the pretty town of
Moseltal (p349). Follow the river Freiburg im Breisgau (pp328–9).
beneath vineyards that produce See the Münster and either
elegant Rieslings, pausing at buy a cheese sandwich from
the world’s steepest vineyard, a stall on Münsterplatz, or join
Bremmer Calmont (www. students in the cafés of its
bremmer-calmont.de). Dresden’s magnificent Frauenkirche cobbled lanes.



012-017_EW_Germany.indd 17 09/10/17 12:53 pm

18  INTRODUCING GERM AN Y PUT TING GERM AN Y ON THE M AP  19
FlensburgFlensburg DENMARKDENMARK
Putting Germany on the Map BalticBaltic SłupskSłupsk
SeaSea
SchleswigSchleswig
Located in the centre of Europe, between the North and KielKiel StralsundStralsund KoszalinKoszalin
Baltic Seas and the Alps, Germany covers an area of nearly RostockRostock
360,000 sq km (139,000 sq miles). Its neighbouring countries NeumünsterNeumünster SwinoujscieSwinoujscie
are Poland and the Czech Republic to the east, Austria and CuxhavenCuxhaven LübeckLübeck
Switzerland to the south, France, Belgium, Luxembourg SzczecinekSzczecinek
and Holland to the west, and Denmark to the NeubrandenburgNeubrandenburg
north. The capital is Berlin. WilhelmshavenWilhelmshaven BremerhavenBremerhaven HamburgHamburg SchwerinSchwerin SzczecinSzczecin
Its largest river is the EmdenEmden NeustrelitzNeustrelitz
Rhine. Germany is LeerLeer LünebergLüneberg Schwedt/Schwedt/ PilaPila
inhabited by over GroningenGroningen OldenburgOldenburg BremenBremen PritzwalkPritzwalk OderOder
81 million people. Den OeverDen Oever HeerenveenHeerenveen UelzenUelzen POLANDPOLAND
GorzówGorzów
EmmeloordEmmeloord HoogeveenHoogeveen OranienburgOranienburg WielkopolskiWielkopolski
MeppenMeppen CelleCelle StendalStendal
BERLINBERLIN PoznańPoznań
ZwolleZwolle
AmsterdamAmsterdam NETHERLANDS NETHERLANDS HanoverHanover WolfsburgWolfsburg PotsdamPotsdam
Den HaagDen Haag ApeldoornApeldoorn GronauGronau OsnabrückOsnabrück MindenMinden
UtrechtUtrecht BielefeldBielefeld HildesheimHildesheim BrunswickBrunswick MagdeburgMagdeburg LuckenwaldeLuckenwalde
RotterdamRotterdam ArnhemArnhem Zielona GóraZielona Góra
CoesfeldCoesfeld MünsterMünster LübbenauLübbenau LesznoLeszno
GoslarGoslar CottbusCottbus
BredaBreda LutherstadtLutherstadt
WittenbergWittenberg
WeselWesel HammHamm PaderbornPaderborn ŻaryŻary GlogówGlogów
EindhovenEindhoven EssenEssen DortmundDortmund GöttingenGöttingen NordhausenNordhausen HalleHalle
AntwerpAntwerp DuisburgDuisburg LeipzigLeipzig HoyerswerdaHoyerswerda LegnicaLegnica
HagenHagen KasselKassel
GentGent DüsseldorfDüsseldorf WuppertalWuppertal WrocławWrocław
GERMANYGERMANY DresdenDresden
BrusselsBrussels LeuvenLeuven CologneCologne GothaGotha ErfurtErfurt
BadBad
SiegenSiegen HersfeldHersfeld WałbrzychWałbrzych
BELGIUMBELGIUM AachenAachen BonnBonn MarburgMarburg GeraGera ChemnitzChemnitz LiberecLiberec
LiegeLiege ZwickauZwickau
CharleroiCharleroi IlmenauIlmenau Ústí nad LabemÚstí nad Labem
NamurNamur FuldaFulda
HradecHradec
KoblenzKoblenz KrálovéKrálové
FrankfurtFrankfurt HofHof KarlovyKarlovy KladnoKladno
HirsonHirson am Mainam Main VaryVary PardubicePardubice
MainzMainz PraguePrague KolínKolín
Charleville-Charleville- LUXEM-LUXEM- BayreuthBayreuth
MézièrsMézièrs BOURGBOURG WürzburgWürzburg BambergBamberg CZECH REPUBLICCZECH REPUBLIC
LuxembourgLuxembourg TrierTrier DarmstadtDarmstadt PlzeňPlzeň
ErlangenErlangen Havlíčkův BrodHavlíčkův Brod
FRANCEFRANCE MannheimMannheim
ReimsReims KaiserslauternKaiserslautern NurembergNuremberg KlatovyKlatovy Europe NORWAY
MetzMetz SaarbrückenSaarbrücken HeidelbergHeidelberg AnsbachAnsbach SchwandorfSchwandorf Nor th SWEDEN ESTONIA
ChamCham Sea
FreymingFreyming HeilbronnHeilbronn LATVIA
RegensburgRegensburg DENMARK LITHUANIA
KarlsruheKarlsruhe
AalenAalen DeggendorfDeggendorf REP. OF UNITED Berlin BELARUS
IRELAND KINGDOM
ToulToul NETH. POLAND
NancyNancy StuttgartStuttgart GERMANY
StrasbourgStrasbourg IngolstadtIngolstadt BELGIUM CZECH UKRAINE
REPUBLIC
SLOVAKIA
PassauPassau
OffenburgOffenburg LandshutLandshut AUSTRIA
0 kilometres 100 Atlantic SWITZ. HUNGARY
UlmUlm Ocean FRANCE SLOV. ROMANIA
0 miles 100 TroyesTroyes AugsburgAugsburg CROATIA SERBIA
BOSNIA
ColmarColmar MunichMunich ITALY HERZ. BULGARIA
MONTEN. KOS.
Key FreiburgFreiburg TuttlingenTuttlingen BiberachBiberach SP AIN ALBANIA MAC.
National border RosenheimRosenheim SalzburgSalzburg PORTUGAL GREECE
Motorway
DijonDijon MulhouseMulhouse
Major road BelfortBelfort SchaffhausenSchaffhausen KonstanzKonstanz KemptenKempten
MOROCCO ALGERIA TUNISIA
Ferry route BaselBasel SWITZERLANDSWITZERLAND AUSTRIAAUSTRIA
For map symbols see back flap
018-019_EW_Germany.indd 18 09/10/17 12:53 pm 018-019_EW_Germany.indd 19 09/10/17 12:53 pm
Eyewitness Travel LAYERS PRINTED:
Orientations template “UK” LAYER
(Source v1.3)
Date 6th November 2012
Size 125mm x 217mm

PUT TING GERM AN Y ON THE M AP  19
Flensburg DENMARK
Baltic
Słupsk
Sea
Schleswig
Kiel Stralsund Koszalin
Neumünster Rostock
Swinoujscie
Cuxhaven Lübeck
Szczecinek
Neubrandenburg
Wilhelmshaven Schwerin
Bremerhaven Hamburg Szczecin
Emden
Neustrelitz
Leer Lüneberg Schwedt/ Pila
Groningen Bremen Pritzwalk Oder
Oldenburg POLAND
Den Oever Heerenveen Uelzen
Gorzów
Emmeloord Hoogeveen Oranienburg Wielkopolski
Meppen Celle Stendal
BERLIN Poznań
Zwolle
Amsterdam NETHERLANDS Hanover Wolfsburg Potsdam
Den Haag Apeldoorn Gronau Osnabrück Minden
Utrecht Bielefeld Hildesheim Brunswick Magdeburg Luckenwalde
Rotterdam Arnhem Zielona Góra
Coesfeld Münster Lübbenau Leszno
Goslar Cottbus
Breda Lutherstadt
Wittenberg
Wesel Hamm Paderborn Żary Glogów
Eindhoven Essen Dortmund Göttingen Nordhausen Halle
Antwerp Duisburg Leipzig Hoyerswerda Legnica
Hagen Kassel
Gent Düsseldorf Wuppertal Wrocław
GERMANY Dresden
Brussels Leuven Cologne Gotha Erfurt
Bad
Siegen Hersfeld Wałbrzych
BELGIUM Aachen Bonn Marburg Gera Chemnitz Liberec
Liege Zwickau
Charleroi Ilmenau Ústí nad Labem
Namur Fulda
Hradec
Koblenz Králové
Frankfurt Hof Karlovy Kladno
Hirson am Main Vary Pardubice
Mainz Prague Kolín
Charleville- LUXEM- Bayreuth
Mézièrs BOURG Würzburg Bamberg CZECH REPUBLIC
Luxembourg Trier Darmstadt Plzeň
Erlangen Havlíčkův Brod
FRANCE Mannheim
Reims Kaiserslautern Nuremberg Klatovy Europe NORWAY
Metz Saarbrücken Heidelberg Ansbach Schwandorf Nor th SWEDEN ESTONIA
Cham Sea
Freyming Heilbronn LATVIA
Regensburg DENMARK LITHUANIA
Karlsruhe
Aalen Deggendorf REP. OF UNITED Berlin BELARUS
IRELAND KINGDOM
Toul NETH. POLAND
Nancy Stuttgart GERMANY
Strasbourg Ingolstadt BELGIUM CZECH UKRAINE
REPUBLIC
SLOVAKIA
Passau
Offenburg Landshut AUSTRIA
Atlantic SWITZ. HUNGARY
Ulm FRANCE SLOV. ROMANIA
Augsburg Ocean CROATIA
Troyes BOSNIA SERBIA
HERZ.
Colmar Munich ITALY MONTEN. KOS. BULGARIA
Biberach
Freiburg Tuttlingen SP AIN ALBANIA MAC.
PORTUGAL GREECE
Rosenheim Salzburg
Dijon Mulhouse
Belfort Schaffhausen Konstanz Kempten
ALGERIA
MOROCCO TUNISIA
Basel SWITZERLAND AUSTRIA
018-019_EW_Germany.indd 19 09/10/17 12:53 pm

20  INTRODUCING GERM AN Y GERM AN Y REGION B Y REGION  21
Flensburg
Flensburg
199
199
5 5
200 200
Germany: Region by RegionGermany: Region by Region Husum Schleswig 96 2
Schleswig
Husum
76
76
5 5 7 7 Berlin Reinickendorf Pankow
Kiel
Rendsburg
Rendsburg Kiel Stralsund
Stralsund
The Federal Republic of Germany is made up of 105105 109
202 Weissensee
202
16 states. Bremen is the smallest state, with around Neumünster 1 1 Rostock Greifswald Wedding
Greifswald
Rostock
Neumünster
650,000 inhabitants; North Rhine-Westphalia is 5 5 23 2020 111 100 Prenzlauer Berg
23
Itzehoe
Wismar
the most densely populated state, with almost Cuxhaven Itzehoe 404 Lübeck Wismar Tiergarten 96a
Lübeck
Cuxhaven
18 million inhabitants. The largest state, 7373 Elmshorn 23 2020 19 197 197 Charlottenburg 2/5 Mitte Friedrichshain
23
Elmshorn
404
19
Bavaria, covers an area of 70,550 Wilhelmshaven 7373 HamburgHamburg 14 14 Neubrandenburg 1
Neubrandenburg
Schwerin
Wilhelmshaven
sq km (27,240 sq miles). 210 210 72 72 BremerhavenBremerhaven 24 Schwerin Kreuzberg
24
Berlin, Bremen and Emden 31 2828 437437 7171 5 5 Neustrelitz 20 20 100 Wilmersdorf Treptow
Neustrelitz
Emden
31
Hamburg are Leer 29 74 74 71 1 1 Lüneburg 24 Schöneberg Neukölln
Leer
24
71
29
Lüneburg
Pritzwalk
11
self-governing 31 31 OldenburgOldenburg BremenBremen 71 7 7 Pritzwalk 96 Schwedt/ Tempelhof 100
11
96
Schwedt/
71
city-states. 4 4 Uelzen Wittenberge 5 5 Oder 0 km 3
Oder
Wittenberge
Uelzen
31 31 72 72 29 29 29 29 1
Cloppenburg 27 71 71 Steglitz 96 0 miles 3
Cloppenburg
27
71
Oranienburg
213 213 6 6 4 4 71 Oranienburg
10
10
Rathenow
Meppen
Meppen 51 51 61 61 3 3 Rathenow
Celle
Stendal
68 68 Nienburg Celle Stendal
Nienburg
1 1 6 6 BERLINBERLIN 1 1
(Weser)
31 31 Lingen (Weser) see inset abovesee inset above
Lingen
Potsdam
How to get there (Ems) Bramsche HanoverHanover 188 WolfsburgWolfsburg 107 Potsdam
(Ems)
188
Bramsche
107
65
65
Germany has an excellent Gronau 30 Osnabrück 65 Minden 2 2 2 2 10 10 12 12
Minden
30
Osnabrück
Gronau
65
Rheine
transport system. There are 54 54 Rheine 51 51 30 30 2 2 217 217 BrunswickBrunswick Luckenwalde 87 87
Luckenwalde
Magdeburg
22 international airports 54 1 1 Bielefeld 61 61 Hildesheim Magdeburg 9 9
Hildesheim
Bielefeld
54
Schönebeck
Münster
with flights to all parts of Coesfeld Münster 3 3 Schönebeck 13 Lübbenau
Lübbenau
13
Coesfeld
64
the world; a comprehensive 64 Wiedenbrück 1 1 Goslar 81 81 14 14 101 101
Goslar
Wiedenbrück
Lutherstadt
Cottbus
3 3 31 31 43 43 64 64 Lutherstadt 87 87 Cottbus
network of toll-free motor- Wesel 1 1 2 2 64 Paderborn 7 7 6 6 Wittenberg 13 13
Wittenberg
Paderborn
64
Wesel
Hamm
ways that make travelling 57 2 2 Hamm 68
57
68
by car easy and fast; and DuisburgDuisburg EssenEssen DortmundDortmund 44 GöttingenGöttingen Nordhausen Halle Delitzsch
Nordhausen
Halle
Delitzsch
44
Hoyerswerda
an efficient railway system, 40 40 HagenHagen 445 7 7 7 7 38 38 Leipzig 13 13 Hoyerswerda
445
Leipzig
Kassel
with high-speed InterCity 46 46 Kassel 6 6
14
Express (ICE) links DüsseldorfDüsseldorf WuppertalWuppertal 55 55 Mühlhausen Naumburg 38 38 14 4 4 Bautzen Görlitz
Bautzen
Görlitz
Naumburg
Mühlhausen
Döbeln
between major cities. 1 1 Döbeln Dresden
Dresden
Zeitz
CologneCologne Gotha Erfurt Weimar 9 9 Zeitz
Erfurt Weimar
Gotha
61
61
Bad
44 44 4 4 3 3 Bad 4 4
Freiberg
Hersfeld
4 4 Siegen 62 Hersfeld 4 4 Freiberg
Siegen 62
Gera
Hennef
Aachen
Aachen Bonn Hennef Marburg 84 84 4 4 Gera 4 4 Chemnitz
Marburg
Bonn
Chemnitz
Key 45 7 7 88 88 Zwickau
45
Zwickau
Ilmenau
3 3 5 5 Ilmenau
Motorway WetzlarWetzlar FuldaFulda 72 72
8 8
Annaberg-
257 257 61 3 3 93 93 Annaberg-
61
Buchholz
Major road 49 49 45 73 85 85 9 9 Buchholz
73
45
Koblenz
Minor Road Prüm 48 48 Koblenz FrankfurtFrankfurt 71 71 Hof
Prüm
Hof
Coburg
173
Railway 257 257 416 416 Wiesbaden 3 3 am Mainam Main 66 66 7 7 Coburg 173
Wiesbaden
1 1 85
85
Cheb
327 327 AschaffenburgAschaffenburg Cheb Area Colours
Mainz
Bayreuth
61 Mainz 49 49 70 70 Bayreuth
61
0 km 100 45 45 3 3 93 93
Bad Kreuznach
Bad Kreuznach 63 63 Berlin
Würzburg
Bamberg
Darmstadt
60
60 Würzburg Bamberg
0 miles 100 Darmstadt
Trier
Trier 41 41 3 3 73 9 9 Eastern Germany
73
Weiden
Erlangen
Worms
Worms 5 5 3 3 Erlangen Weiden
62
62 8 8 Brandenburg
Mannheim 6 6
Mannheim
Kaiserslautern 7 7 22 Saxony
Kaiserslautern
Nuremberg
27 27 Nuremberg
22
Heidelberg
Saarbrücken
Munich 99 Saarbrücken 6 6 Speyer Heidelberg 81 81 19 19 290 Ansbach Schwandorf 20 20 Saxony-Anhalt
Ansbach
Speyer
Schwandorf
290
Cham
10 10 6 6 Cham
Hasenbergl 6 6 6 6 Thuringia
Landau
Heilbronn
13 9 Landau Heilbronn
11 Crailsheim 13 2 2 9 9 3 3 93 93 85 Southern Germany
Crailsheim
85
13
Regensburg
Allach Freimann Karlsruhe 8 Pforzheim Regensburg 11 11
Karlsruhe
Pforzheim
8
13
Moosach AalenAalen 7 7 13 3 3 Munich
Deggendorf
304 StuttgartStuttgart 25 2 2 Straubing Deggendorf Bavaria
Straubing
25
Baden-Baden
Obermenzing 2R 5 5 Baden-Baden Ingolstadt 16 16 15 15 85 Baden-Württemberg
Ingolstadt
85
Passau
Gern GöppingenGöppingen 16 16 93 93 3 3 Passau
294 294 92 92
Nymphenburg Schwabing Western Germany
Landshut
Offenburg Reutlingen 2 2 300 300 Landshut
Offenburg
Reutlingen
2R Bogenhausen Ulm 8 8 9 9 20 12 12 Rhineland-Palatinate and Saarland
Ulm
20
94
Pasing 2 81 81 27 27 312 AugsburgAugsburg Hesse
Laim Westend
312
304 30 30 7 7 300 300 MUNICHMUNICH 94 94 North Rhine-Westphalia
Schwenningen
Schwenningen BiberachBiberach see inset leftsee inset left
96 Haidhausen 5 5 Tuttlingen 96 96 96 96 Northern Germany
Tuttlingen
Berg
32
2R 2R am Laim Freiburg 31 32 15 15 304
304
Freiburg 31
3 3 14 30 30 KaufbeurenKaufbeuren Rosenheim Hamburg, Bremen, Lower Saxony
Rosenheim
14
0 km 2 Giesing 8 Perlach 27 12 12 95 95 8 8 Schleswig-Holstein
27
Konstanz
0 miles 2 995 Schaffhausen 34 34 Konstanz KemptenKempten 17 17 318 318 93 93
Schaffhausen
12 12 Mecklenburg-Lower Pomerania
13
13
For map symbols see back flap
020-021_EW_Germany.indd 20 09/10/17 12:53 pm 020-021_EW_Germany.indd 21 09/10/17 12:53 pm
Eyewitness Travel LAYERS PRINTED:
Orientations template “UK” LAYER
(Source v1.3)
Date 6th November 2012
Size 125mm x 217mm

GERM AN Y REGION B Y REGION  21
Flensburg
199
200
5
Germany: Region by Region Husum Schleswig 96 2
76
5 7 Berlin Reinickendorf Pankow
Rendsburg Kiel Stralsund
105
202 109 Weissensee
1 Greifswald
Neumünster Rostock Wedding
5 20 111 100 Prenzlauer Berg
23
Itzehoe Wismar
Cuxhaven Lübeck Tiergarten 96a
Elmshorn 23 404 19 197 2/5 Mitte Friedrichshain
73 20 Charlottenburg
14 Neubrandenburg
Wilhelmshaven 73 Hamburg Schwerin 1
210 72 Bremerhaven 24 Kreuzberg
Emden 31 71 Neustrelitz 20 100 Wilmersdorf Treptow
Leer 28 29 437 74 71 5 24 Schöneberg Neukölln
31 1 Lüneburg Pritzwalk 96 11 100
Oldenburg Bremen 71 7 4 5 Schwedt/ Tempelhof
31 72 29 29 Uelzen Wittenberge Oder 1 0 km 3
Cloppenburg 27 71 Steglitz 96 0 miles 3
213 6 4 71 Oranienburg
10
Meppen 51 61 3 Rathenow
68 Nienburg Celle Stendal
1 6 BERLIN 1
31 Lingen (Weser) see inset above
(Ems) Bramsche Hanover 188 Wolfsburg 107 Potsdam
65 2
Gronau 30 Osnabrück 65 Minden 2 10 12
Rheine 87
54 2 217 Brunswick
51 30 Magdeburg Luckenwalde
1 Bielefeld 61 Hildesheim
54
Münster Schönebeck 9 13
Coesfeld 64 1 3 81 101 Lübbenau
Wiedenbrück Goslar 14
3 31 43 1 2 64 Lutherstadt 87 Cottbus
Wesel Hamm 64 Paderborn 7 6 Wittenberg 13
2 68
57
Essen Dortmund Nordhausen Halle Delitzsch
Duisburg 44 7 Göttingen
7 Hoyerswerda
445
40 Hagen Kassel 38 Leipzig 6 13
Düsseldorf 46 Wuppertal 55 38 14
Mühlhausen Naumburg 4 Bautzen Görlitz
1 Döbeln Dresden
Cologne Gotha Erfurt Weimar 9 Zeitz
61
44 4 3 Bad 4
4 Siegen 62 Hersfeld 4 Freiberg
Aachen Bonn Hennef 45 Marburg 84 4 Gera 4 Chemnitz
7 88 Zwickau
3 5 Ilmenau
8
Wetzlar Fulda 72
257 61 3 93 Annaberg-
49 45 73 9 Buchholz
85
Koblenz 71
Prüm 48 Frankfurt
257 3 66 7 Coburg 173 Hof
416 Wiesbaden am Main
1 85
327 Aschaffenburg Cheb Area Colours
61 Mainz 49 45 70 Bayreuth 93
Bad Kreuznach 63 3 Berlin
Darmstadt
60 Würzburg Bamberg
Trier 41 3 73 9 Eastern Germany
Worms 5 3 Erlangen Weiden
62 8 Brandenburg
Mannheim 6
Kaiserslautern 7 22 Saxony
27 Nuremberg
Saarbrücken 6 Speyer Heidelberg 81 19 290 Ansbach Schwandorf 20 Saxony-Anhalt
10 6 Cham Thuringia
6 6
Landau Heilbronn
Crailsheim 13 2 9 3 93 Regensburg 85 11 Southern Germany
Karlsruhe 8 Pforzheim Munich
Aalen 7 13 3
Stuttgart 25 2 Straubing Deggendorf Bavaria
5 Baden-Baden Ingolstadt 16 15 85
Göppingen 93 3 Passau Baden-Württemberg
294 16 92 Western Germany
Offenburg Reutlingen 2 300 Landshut
8 Rhineland-Palatinate and Saarland
Ulm 9 20 12
81 312 Augsburg Hesse
27
7
30 300 MUNICH 94 North Rhine-Westphalia
Schwenningen Biberach see inset left
5 96 Northern Germany
Tuttlingen 32 96 15
Freiburg 31 304
3 14 30 Rosenheim Hamburg, Bremen, Lower Saxony
Kaufbeuren 8
12 17 95 Schleswig-Holstein
27
Schaffhausen 34 Konstanz Kempten 318 93
12 Mecklenburg-Lower Pomerania
13
020-021_EW_Germany.indd 21 09/10/17 12:53 pm

INTRODUCING GERM AN Y  23

A PORTRAIT OF GERMANY


Stereotypes of Germany tend to focus on its industrial and economic prowess, as
well as its hard-working citizens. While this is true to some extent – it is Europe’s
largest economy – it’s also made some extraordinary contributions to the arts,
culture, science and philosphy. Germany is filled with breathtaking natural beauty
and exciting, modern cities, while its locals have a penchant for romanticism.

Modern Germany is surprisingly multi­ History and Romance
cultural. Since World War II, many places For many, the river Rhine epitomizes tourist
have become a melting pot of diversity, Germany, particularly the romantic stretch
with inhabitants from across the world. between Mainz and Cologne. The country
More than 15 per cent of the 80 million has far more to offer in the way of scenery
population were born beyond the country’s than this, however. There is the ever­
borders, rising to 20 per cent when you changing Baltic coastline, the sandy
include the German­born children of islands of the North Sea, the lakes of
immigrants. These are made up of the ‘guest Mecklenburg, lonely castles perched on
workers’ from Turkey who started arriving crags in Baden and Thuringia, mountain
during the 1960s and 1970s, as well as ranges including the Alps, the vast
significant communities of Poles, Italians, Bodensee lake, medieval cities and fairy­
Greeks, Romanians, Chinese and Russians. In tale villages. Not all of the latter are original,
addition, over a million refugees from war­ as countless towns were destroyed by
torn countries across the globe have arrived bombs during World War II, but many have
following Angela Merkel’s open­door policy. been meticu lously rebuilt to the original
In almost every town an eclectic variety of plans, and it is now difficult to tell the
restaurants represents this diversity. difference between the old and the new.






























The market in the old town of Mainz is typical of those found throughout Germany
A wintry Bavarian scene, with Neuschwanstein Castle in the background



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INTRODUCING GERM AN Y  23

A PORTRAIT OF GERMANY


Stereotypes of Germany tend to focus on its industrial and economic prowess, as
well as its hard-working citizens. While this is true to some extent – it is Europe’s
largest economy – it’s also made some extraordinary contributions to the arts,
culture, science and philosphy. Germany is filled with breathtaking natural beauty
and exciting, modern cities, while its locals have a penchant for romanticism.

Modern Germany is surprisingly multi­ History and Romance
cultural. Since World War II, many places For many, the river Rhine epitomizes tourist
have become a melting pot of diversity, Germany, particularly the romantic stretch
with inhabitants from across the world. between Mainz and Cologne. The country
More than 15 per cent of the 80 million has far more to offer in the way of scenery
population were born beyond the country’s than this, however. There is the ever­
borders, rising to 20 per cent when you changing Baltic coastline, the sandy
include the German­born children of islands of the North Sea, the lakes of
immigrants. These are made up of the ‘guest Mecklenburg, lonely castles perched on
workers’ from Turkey who started arriving crags in Baden and Thuringia, mountain
during the 1960s and 1970s, as well as ranges including the Alps, the vast
significant communities of Poles, Italians, Bodensee lake, medieval cities and fairy­
Greeks, Romanians, Chinese and Russians. In tale villages. Not all of the latter are original,
addition, over a million refugees from war­ as countless towns were destroyed by
torn countries across the globe have arrived bombs during World War II, but many have
following Angela Merkel’s open­door policy. been meticu lously rebuilt to the original
In almost every town an eclectic variety of plans, and it is now difficult to tell the
restaurants represents this diversity. difference between the old and the new.






























The market in the old town of Mainz is typical of those found throughout Germany
A wintry Bavarian scene, with Neuschwanstein Castle in the background



022-023_EW_Germany.indd 23 09/10/17 12:20 pm

24  INTRODUCING GERM AN Y A POR TR AIT OF GERM AN Y  25

legends. This poem was the inspiration for
Richard Wagner’s cycle of operas, The Ring of
the Nibelungen, as well as for a trilogy of
plays by Christian Friedrich Hebbel and a
film by Fritz Lang.
Germans have won eight Nobel Prizes
for literature. One of the most recent
prize-winner was Günter Grass, whose
Tin Drum brought him world renown.
More recently a film adaptation of the
book was made by Volker Schlöndorff, The historical Frohnauer hammer forge near
which won the Golden Palm at the Annaberg in Saxony
Cannes Film Festival. After a relatively
stagnant period, the German film industry fact that, in the past, local dukes acquired
Procession during the Plärrer Fest, a beer festival in Augsburg became revitalized around 1995 with a collections of art in order to impress
number of hits, albeit only at the national others and to demonstrate their wealth.
Traditions festival that brings millions of people to level. German cinemas are now always full The Bavarian dukes also built up
Today’s German nation has evolved over the Munich every year from all over the world. and traditional cinemas are increasingly extensive collections of machines,
past thousand years, mainly from various The people of the Rhineland have a being replaced by multiplexes. artisans’ tools, musical instruments
Germanic tribes, notably the Franks, Saxons, reputation for enjoying life. Their favourite Germans read widely, even in today’s and minerals. As early as the
Swabians and Bavarians. Traditions and season is the Carnival period, and they age of television and the internet. Every 16th century, Munich was an
dialects have developed within regional spend practically the entire year preparing year around 75,000 new books are international centre of the arts
ethnic groups that emerged as a result for this week-long event. It begins on the published in Germany and eight and the Grünes Gewölbe in
of historical alliances. There is no such thing last Thursday before Lent, with “town times that many titles are on sale. 17th-century Dresden was one
as a single German tradition. Even the soldiers”, helped by the huge crowds, Germany is second only to the of the largest treasuries for storing
assumption that Germany is a country of storming the town hall. The town coun- United States in the number of fine art in Europe. Of the many
beer-drinkers is belied by the large numbers cillors surrender and power passes to books published annually, while art galleries to be found through-
of wine-lovers. These groups, along with the masked revellers. On the Monday, the the number of bookshops per out Germany, the finest are in
consumers of stronger beverages, have Carnival proceeds through the thronged square kilometre is the Cologne, Frankfurt, Stutt gart,
given Germany a high position in the world streets of the towns on the Rhine, and the highest in the world. The Lorelei overlooking the Rhine Munich and Berlin.
league table for alcohol use. Nevertheless, pubs are busy until the end of Shrovetide. same applies to museums Music also flourishes
drunkenness is uncommon in Germany. Carnival is rooted in ancient rituals and art galleries. in Germany. Many cities have their
Various ethnic marking the banishment of winter. This Germany has over 6,000 national, own symphony orchestra and opera
groups in the country custom was most common in the south provincial and local history museums, company and every year some 600
are ascribed different of Germany, but it also reached the including numerous church museums, regional and local music festivals
characteristics. The Rhineland, the Palatinate and Hessen. folk museums and former royal palaces. take place. Musical comedies are
people of Mecklenburg, When the German government moved This variety and choice owes much to the especially popular.
for example, are seen as back to Berlin from Bonn in the Rhineland
introspective, while in 1999, attempts were made to establish
Swabians are regarded as Carnival in the new capital, but it never
thrifty; the Saxons are seen as really took root.
disciplined and cunning, while
Bavarians are typified as a Art and Culture
people bound by rustic Germany is a land of sagas and legends that
traditions, with outgoing tell of woodland spirits, beautiful princesses,
personalities and a history magicians and sirens such as the Lorelei.
filled with folk music and These legends have had a strong influence
dancing. Bavaria, of course, is on German art. An example is the German
home to the traditional epic poem, the Nibelungenlied, which was
A Bavarian dressed in
regional costume Oktoberfest, a beer written around 1200 on the basis of old The imposing Schönburg Castle, near Oberwesel on the Rhine




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A POR TR AIT OF GERM AN Y  25

legends. This poem was the inspiration for
Richard Wagner’s cycle of operas, The Ring of
the Nibelungen, as well as for a trilogy of
plays by Christian Friedrich Hebbel and a
film by Fritz Lang.
Germans have won eight Nobel Prizes
for literature. One of the most recent
prize-winner was Günter Grass, whose
Tin Drum brought him world renown.
More recently a film adaptation of the
book was made by Volker Schlöndorff, The historical Frohnauer hammer forge near
which won the Golden Palm at the Annaberg in Saxony
Cannes Film Festival. After a relatively
stagnant period, the German film industry fact that, in the past, local dukes acquired
became revitalized around 1995 with a collections of art in order to impress
number of hits, albeit only at the national others and to demonstrate their wealth.
level. German cinemas are now always full The Bavarian dukes also built up
and traditional cinemas are increasingly extensive collections of machines,
being replaced by multiplexes. artisans’ tools, musical instruments
Germans read widely, even in today’s and minerals. As early as the
age of television and the internet. Every 16th century, Munich was an
year around 75,000 new books are international centre of the arts
published in Germany and eight and the Grünes Gewölbe in
times that many titles are on sale. 17th-century Dresden was one
Germany is second only to the of the largest treasuries for storing
United States in the number of fine art in Europe. Of the many
books published annually, while art galleries to be found through-
the number of bookshops per out Germany, the finest are in
square kilometre is the Cologne, Frankfurt, Stutt gart,
highest in the world. The Lorelei overlooking the Rhine Munich and Berlin.
same applies to museums Music also flourishes
and art galleries. in Germany. Many cities have their
Germany has over 6,000 national, own symphony orchestra and opera
provincial and local history museums, company and every year some 600
including numerous church museums, regional and local music festivals
folk museums and former royal palaces. take place. Musical comedies are
This variety and choice owes much to the especially popular.
















The imposing Schönburg Castle, near Oberwesel on the Rhine




024-027_EW_Germany.indd 25 09/10/17 12:20 pm

26  INTRODUCING GERM AN Y A POR TR AIT OF GERM AN Y  27

Society and Politics Although reunification took place
Germany has almost always been on 3 October, 1990, unity among
divided regionally into states with the people themselves has taken a
fluctuating borders. The present-day long time. For a while, the former
states were, for the most part, created GDR tended to regard their
after 1945 while those in East Germany western counterparts as arrogant
were not created until 40 years later. and self-assured, while the latter
In all cases, old territorial and claimed that the inhabitants of the
historical ties were taken into account. “new states” were jealous and
That is the reason for their evocative ungrateful, resenting the billions
names, such as the “Free State of of marks and euros that were Bathers on the sandy beaches of Norddeich
Bavaria” or the “Free State of Saxony”. poured into impoverished regions
There are now 16 federal states, or to help equalize living standards. Today, Germany is on the rise, especially in cities,
provinces. North Rhine-Westphalia, The Reichstag building, where the Bundestag sessions are held despite an on-going imbalance of wealth, as is the number of people who are
Baden-Württemberg and Bavaria are with East Germany still suffering from a seemingly uninterested in having a family.
the largest and could be likened to count on support in the Bundesrat, even if higher unemployment rate than the West, As a result, the German birth rate has been
economically powerful countries. At the it has a majority there. Each state looks after tensions have eased and the focus is declining. This population decline is some-
other end of the scale, the tiny province of its own interests and often makes alliances generally on working together. thing that the government has been trying
Saarland has less than 1 million inhabitants, with other states to achieve its own aims, As the leading country within to address in recent years – hence the
while the Free Hanseatic City of Bremen without regard for party loyalty. The the European Union in terms open-door policy on immigration.
has fewer than 600,000. The former East complex working of German federalism is of GDP, the country has also Great emphasis is still placed on art,
German states are also relatively small but based on the compromises that this system been in the political spotlight for culture and intellectual pursuits, which for
all play an important role in the Bundesrat, requires. A large proportion of people still the last few years. Many within many provides a satisfying counterbalance
or Federal Council, where they are associate Germany with World War II and Germany consider their country to the country’s industrial and commercial
instrumental in enacting legislation. the scars of the Allied bombings are a bastion of liberal democracy life. Germans also make the most of public
All laws, apart from those relating to the evident across Eastern Germany, although in a western world that is holidays and enjoy festivals. They are
Federation as a whole, such as defence or after over 70 years, they are gradually increasingly turning to populism. also among Europe’s most enthusiastic
foreign policy, require the agreement of the disappearing. Görlitz, Bautzen, Leipzig, travellers, with the country’s population
Bundesrat, which is made up from current Dresden and Weimar have now acquired Daily Life spending more than 68 billion euros on
local governments. Depending on the a splendour that was previously hidden Germany is commonly regarded holidays abroad every year.
number of inhabitants, each federal state behind the grim façade of East Germany. as a well-organised country
has from four to six votes. The mental, social and political scars of and – with the slightly unruly
A government with a majority in the the war and subsequent division of Participant in a exception of Berlin – this is
Bundestag (parliament) cannot always Germany have, however, left deeper scars. parade celebrating largely true. Many Germans
the Reunification continue to embrace old-
fashioned values such
as orderliness and industriousness,
punctuality and privacy. This is especially
true in working life, where they tend to be
on time for meetings and manage their
time well. To many, such behaviour can
come across as perfectionist, even stoic,
yet their humour and sense of community
should not be underestimated.
Lifestyles here tend to be typically West-
ern, with education and career both high
priorities. The main religion is Christianity
and while this is in decline, the culture does
remain vibrant in some places. The number
The skyline of Frankfurt am Main of people choosing to live alone in The upper town of Meersberg, with the Bodensee below




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A POR TR AIT OF GERM AN Y  27

Although reunification took place
on 3 October, 1990, unity among
the people themselves has taken a
long time. For a while, the former
GDR tended to regard their
western counterparts as arrogant
and self-assured, while the latter
claimed that the inhabitants of the
“new states” were jealous and
ungrateful, resenting the billions
of marks and euros that were Bathers on the sandy beaches of Norddeich
poured into impoverished regions
to help equalize living standards. Today, Germany is on the rise, especially in cities,
despite an on-going imbalance of wealth, as is the number of people who are
with East Germany still suffering from a seemingly uninterested in having a family.
higher unemployment rate than the West, As a result, the German birth rate has been
tensions have eased and the focus is declining. This population decline is some-
generally on working together. thing that the government has been trying
As the leading country within to address in recent years – hence the
the European Union in terms open-door policy on immigration.
of GDP, the country has also Great emphasis is still placed on art,
been in the political spotlight for culture and intellectual pursuits, which for
the last few years. Many within many provides a satisfying counterbalance
Germany consider their country to the country’s industrial and commercial
a bastion of liberal democracy life. Germans also make the most of public
in a western world that is holidays and enjoy festivals. They are
increasingly turning to populism. also among Europe’s most enthusiastic
travellers, with the country’s population
Daily Life spending more than 68 billion euros on
Germany is commonly regarded holidays abroad every year.
as a well-organised country
and – with the slightly unruly
Participant in a exception of Berlin – this is
parade celebrating largely true. Many Germans
the Reunification continue to embrace old-
fashioned values such
as orderliness and industriousness,
punctuality and privacy. This is especially
true in working life, where they tend to be
on time for meetings and manage their
time well. To many, such behaviour can
come across as perfectionist, even stoic,
yet their humour and sense of community
should not be underestimated.
Lifestyles here tend to be typically West-
ern, with education and career both high
priorities. The main religion is Christianity
and while this is in decline, the culture does
remain vibrant in some places. The number
of people choosing to live alone in The upper town of Meersberg, with the Bodensee below




024-027_EW_Germany.indd 27 09/10/17 12:20 pm

28  INTRODUCING GERM AN Y A POR TR AIT OF GERM AN Y  29


Flora and Fauna German Wildlife Wild boars are mammals of Deer live in leafy
The fauna of Germany is typical the pig family, living in and mixed forests
Germany is a vast country whose varied geography of central Europe, with a variety boggy forests. They feed and are one of the
has given rise to a great diversity of flora and fauna. of woodland, wetland and mainly on acorns, most common
It is famous for its forests, many of mixed deciduous Alpine birds. Of the larger beechnuts and the small mammals seen
in Germany.
mammals, visitors are
animals that live in the
trees, including oak, beech and birch. Around most likely to see ground cover of
31 per cent of the country is forested. The Alpine deer, squirrels and the forest.
regions have a rich variety of wild flowers, with foxes. Small popu- Marmots live on
vegetation growing
lations of rarer
meadow species a particular feature in spring Alpine raven species such as in the high Alpine
and summer. On the northern peat moors, heaths lynx and European meadows. Rodents of
and heathers are common. Germany is home to a beaver exist, but are threatened the squirrel family, they Lynx are distinguished by small
wide range of wildlife, including wild boar, lynx and with extinction. Wolf and elk now sleep in burrows at tufts of hair on the tips of their
pass through sparsely populated
ears. These mammals are
night and whistle
marmots. Many valuable wildlife areas have now regions in the north and east. loudly when anxious. becoming ever rarer.
been placed under protection.










Coastal Regions Lakes Uplands Mountains
Germany’s coasts vary considerably: the North Most of Germany’s lakes are grouped in the Upland landscapes dominate the southern part Mountain ranges in Germany vary both in age
Sea coast is predominantly flat with drained northern part of the country, mainly in the of Germany, including Bavaria. Here, the climate and in height above sea level. Older, not very
land, dikes and islands; the Baltic Sea coast is Mecklenburg region, where they are divided is mild, and forests cover nearly a third of the high mountains covered with forests predominate.
hillier with sandy inlets and cliffs. Together with from the south by the mountain ranges, rifts and region. In this picturesque and popular part of The Bavarian Alps are higher and more recent.
differences in tides and temperature, these valleys of the Central Uplands. However, the the country, winter-sports centres and spa resorts Here sub-alpine plants grow, with alpine plants
variations determine the variety of species largest lake in Germany – the Bodensee (Lake are common. at higher altitudes.
found along coastal regions. Constance) – is situated in the south, on the
border with Austria and Switzerland. Beech is one of the Gentian, with its intensely
commonest trees blue trumpet-like flowers, is
Cross-leaved heath Yellow floating heart found in Germany’s one of the most impressive
is a species of heather grows in shallow, forests of mixed plants to be seen in the Alps.
that is commonly found fertile water. Its habitats deciduous species. It is pollinated by bumblebees.
growing on the moors are disappearing but
and peat bogs and in the it still survives in the
damp coastal forests of Rhine basin and on Edelweiss
northern Germany. the lower Elbe. Holly, the symbol of is a small
Christmas with its glossy flowering
Sea lavender is one of leaves and scarlet plant with
the salt-tolerant species Yellow flag berries, is found in flat, white flowers and
that grow along is a protected forests of beech or grey-green woolly
Germany’s North species of iris beech and fir in the west leaves. It grows high
Sea coast. that is found of the country. up in the Alps.
amongst
reeds and Hepatica is a protected
The white water in damp plant in Germany. It Rhododendron hirsutum
Sea holly is a beautiful thistle- lily, with its elegant woodlands, blooms in early spring is a low, dense variety of
like plant with an amethyst floating flowers and particularly in and the seeds of the blue, rhododendron, one of a
hue. It is commonly found lush foliage, adorns older, mixed star-like flowers are group of plants that grow
growing in sand dunes. lakes and reservoirs. species forests. distributed by ants. at sub-Alpine levels.






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A POR TR AIT OF GERM AN Y  29



Wild boars are mammals of Deer live in leafy
the pig family, living in and mixed forests
boggy forests. They feed and are one of the
mainly on acorns, most common
beechnuts and the small mammals seen
animals that live in the in Germany.
ground cover of
the forest.
Marmots live on
vegetation growing
in the high Alpine
meadows. Rodents of
the squirrel family, they Lynx are distinguished by small
sleep in burrows at tufts of hair on the tips of their
night and whistle ears. These mammals are
loudly when anxious. becoming ever rarer.

















Uplands Mountains
Upland landscapes dominate the southern part Mountain ranges in Germany vary both in age
of Germany, including Bavaria. Here, the climate and in height above sea level. Older, not very
is mild, and forests cover nearly a third of the high mountains covered with forests predominate.
region. In this picturesque and popular part of The Bavarian Alps are higher and more recent.
the country, winter-sports centres and spa resorts Here sub-alpine plants grow, with alpine plants
are common. at higher altitudes.
Beech is one of the Gentian, with its intensely
commonest trees blue trumpet-like flowers, is
found in Germany’s one of the most impressive
forests of mixed plants to be seen in the Alps.
deciduous species. It is pollinated by bumblebees.

Edelweiss
Holly, the symbol of is a small
Christmas with its glossy flowering
leaves and scarlet plant with
berries, is found in flat, white flowers and
forests of beech or grey-green woolly
beech and fir in the west leaves. It grows high
of the country. up in the Alps.
Hepatica is a protected
plant in Germany. It Rhododendron hirsutum
blooms in early spring is a low, dense variety of
and the seeds of the blue, rhododendron, one of a
star-like flowers are group of plants that grow
distributed by ants. at sub-Alpine levels.






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30  INTRODUCING GERM AN Y A POR TR AIT OF GERM AN Y  31



Thomas Mann (1875–1955) was
German Literature awarded the Nobel Prize in 1929. Gerhart Haupt-
The best-known of his novels is mann (1862–1946),
The first known examples of written German date from the 8th century. Buddenbrooks, which chronicles the dramatist, novelist
German literature flourished in the Renaissance, although it was mainly life of a Lübeck family. and winner of the
Nobel Prize in 1912,
later writers who entered the world’s canon of great literature. Goethe and lived and worked
Schiller, who wrote many of their most famous works in the Sturm und mainly in Silesia. The
Drang (Storm and Stress) era, in the late 18th century, count among the Weavers is his most
greatest. Germany also produced many dramatists, poets and novelists in famous drama.
the 19th and 20th centuries. German writers have won eight Nobel Prizes KielKiel
for literature, awarded to Nelly Sachs, Thomas Mann, Heinrich Böll and SCHLESWIG-SCHLESWIG- RostockRostock
Günter Grass among others. HOLSTEINHOLSTEIN
MECKLENBURG-MECKLENBURG- Theodor Fontane (1819–98)
LOWERLOWER was born in Neuruppin, and
Gotthold Ephraim Lessing (1729– BremerhavenBremerhaven HamburgHamburg SchwerinSchwerin POMERANIAPOMERANIA his literary activities were
81), the most famous German writer chiefly connected with
of the Age of Enlightenment, Brandenburg. He was
wrote dramas such as Nathan Schwedt/Schwedt/ the author of realistic
the Wise, reviews of plays BremenBremen OderOder novels such as Effi Briest,
performed in Hamburg as and he wrote excellent
well as essays on literary and LOWER SAXONY,LOWER SAXONY, theatre reviews.
cultural theory. HAMBURG AND BREMENHAMBURG AND BREMEN
BerlinBerlin
PotsdamPotsdam Bertolt Brecht (1898–
HanoverHanover
1956), the great dramatist,
MagdeburgMagdeburg BRANDENBURGBRANDENBURG poet and director, wrote
The Threepenny Opera,
BielefeldBielefeld SAXONY-SAXONY- and was a co-founder of
ANHALTANHALT the Berliner Ensemble
DortmundDortmund theatre company.
HalleHalle LeipzigLeipzig
NORTH RHINE-NORTH RHINE- KasselKassel SAXONYSAXONY
Erich Maria Remarque DüsseldorfDüsseldorf WESTPHALIAWESTPHALIA
(1898–1970) emigrated ErfurtErfurt DresdenDresden
from Germany in 1931. His GeraGera
pacifist writings, including BonnBonn THURINGIATHURINGIA ChemnitzChemnitz
All Quiet on the Western HESSEHESSE
Front and L’Arc de Triomphe,
brought him acclaim
around the world. Karl May (1842–1912) was
known around the world as the
RHINELAND-RHINELAND- FrankfurtFrankfurt author of travel books but his
The Brothers Grimm, PALATINATE ANDPALATINATE AND am Mainam Main great popularity stems from a
Jacob Ludwig Karl SAARLANDSAARLAND cycle of stories featuring the
(1785–1863) and Indian chief Winnetou, which he
Wilhelm Karl (1786– SaarbrückenSaarbrücken NurembergNuremberg wrote in Radebeul.
1859), were university
professors and
philologists, but better RegensburgRegensburg Johann Wolfgang von Goethe (1749–
known as collectors 1832) was the most highly acclaimed
and publishers of StuttgartStuttgart German poet and writer of the Sturm
some of the world’s BAVARIABAVARIA und Drang period. Born in Frankfurt,
favourite fairy tales. he spent most of his life in Weimar.
BADEN-BADEN- His most famous work is Faust.
Friedrich Schiller WÜRTTEMBERGWÜRTTEMBERG
(1759–1805) wrote MunichMunich Nelly Sachs (born Leonie
about the concept of Sachs, 1891–1970) was
individual freedom in born in Berlin and
his great dramas, survived the holocaust by
such as The Robbers fleeing to Sweden. Known
and Wallenstein. He for her lyrical poetry, she
also wrote ballads won the 1966 Nobel Prize
and songs, including in Literature alongside
0 kilometres 75
Ode to Joy. Shmuel Yosef Agnon.
0 miles 75



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A POR TR AIT OF GERM AN Y  31



Thomas Mann (1875–1955) was
awarded the Nobel Prize in 1929. Gerhart Haupt-
The best-known of his novels is mann (1862–1946),
Buddenbrooks, which chronicles the dramatist, novelist
life of a Lübeck family. and winner of the
Nobel Prize in 1912,
lived and worked
mainly in Silesia. The
Weavers is his most
famous drama.
Kiel
SCHLESWIG- Rostock
HOLSTEIN
MECKLENBURG- Theodor Fontane (1819–98)
LOWER was born in Neuruppin, and
Bremerhaven Hamburg Schwerin POMERANIA his literary activities were
chiefly connected with
Brandenburg. He was
Schwedt/ the author of realistic
Bremen Oder novels such as Effi Briest,
and he wrote excellent
LOWER SAXONY, theatre reviews.
HAMBURG AND BREMEN
Berlin
Potsdam Bertolt Brecht (1898–
Hanover
1956), the great dramatist,
Magdeburg BRANDENBURG poet and director, wrote
The Threepenny Opera,
Bielefeld SAXONY- and was a co-founder of
ANHALT the Berliner Ensemble
Dortmund theatre company.
Halle Leipzig
NORTH RHINE- Kassel SAXONY
Düsseldorf WESTPHALIA
Erfurt Dresden
Gera
Bonn THURINGIA Chemnitz
HESSE
Karl May (1842–1912) was
known around the world as the
RHINELAND- Frankfurt author of travel books but his
PALATINATE AND am Main great popularity stems from a
SAARLAND cycle of stories featuring the
Indian chief Winnetou, which he
Nuremberg wrote in Radebeul.
Saarbrücken
Regensburg Johann Wolfgang von Goethe (1749–
1832) was the most highly acclaimed
Stuttgart German poet and writer of the Sturm
BAVARIA und Drang period. Born in Frankfurt,
he spent most of his life in Weimar.
BADEN- His most famous work is Faust.
WÜRTTEMBERG Munich
Nelly Sachs (born Leonie
Sachs, 1891–1970) was
born in Berlin and
survived the holocaust by
fleeing to Sweden. Known
for her lyrical poetry, she
won the 1966 Nobel Prize
in Literature alongside
Shmuel Yosef Agnon.






030-031_EW_Germany.indd 31 09/10/17 12:46 pm

32  INTRODUCING GERM AN Y A POR TR AIT OF GERM AN Y  33


Music in Germany Beethoven (1770–1827) was whose “Wedding March” from
born in Bonn, although he A Midsummer Night’s Dream
German composers have made an enormous contribution worked mainly in Vienna. accompanies wedding
to the world’s cultural heritage. Many great musical Among his best-known celebrations around the
geniuses were born and worked here, including Johann works are his nine world. As well as this,
Sebastian Bach and Ludwig van Beethoven. Today their symphonies, as well as however, Mendelssohn’s
legacy includes five
piano and violin
work, and that of other German composers, continues to concertos, two symphonies, piano
be performed to enthusiastic new generations of music- masses, various music, chamber
lovers in concert halls and opera houses around the world. chamber works and music and oratorios.
In Germany, their work is celebra ted regularly at hugely the opera Fidelio. In 1843, he founded
popular music festivals. The life of this great Germany’s first music
Renowned composer, Johann Sebastian composer is shrouded conser vatory, Composer and musician Clara
Bach (1685–1750) in legend. Succeeding in Leipzig. Schumann (1819–96)
Pachelbel (c.1653–1706), who gener ations have The master of
Early Music worked in Vienna, Stuttgart, Johann Sebastian Bach who, been fascinated not chamber music was 2001: A Space Odyssey.
During the early Middle Ages, Erfurt and Nuremberg as a until 1717, was associated just by his music, but Robert Schumann Johannes Brahms (1833–97)
music evolved in the courts church organist. He is best with the Weimar court. From also by the fact that (1810–56), a poet and composed in traditional forms
and monasteries of Europe. known for his organ work 1723 until his death, he was he began to lose his composer whose and was unsympathetic to the
The basis of sacred music was Canon, a set of variations on associated with Leipzig, hearing at the age of miniature works for progressive ideas of Wagner
the Gregorian chant, which a theme. where he was the choir 30. During his final Statue of Ludwig van piano, violin sonatas and Liszt. From 1872 to 1875,
was introduced by Pope The first German opera, master at the church of St years, when totally Beethoven and song cycles all Brahms was the musical
Gregory I in the late 6th century. Dafne, was composed by Thomas. Bach’s output as a deaf, he composed remain popular. director of the Gesellschaft
An influential role in medieval Heinrich Schütz (1585–1672). composer is vast and embraces from memory. His wife, Clara Schumann der Musikfreunde (Society of
court music was played by Completed in 1627, the opera most of the musical forms (1819–1896) was also a famous Friends of Music).
roving poets (Minnesänger), has unfortunately been lost. known at that time. His Passions musician and composer, and
who sang love verses to a lute are today performed in many The 19th Century was the first person to publicly The 20th Century
accompani ment. From the countries during Holy Week, Romanticism brought about perform work by the
14th century, German singing The 18th Century and his Brandenburg the flowering of opera in Schumanns’ friend Brahms. During the 20th century, many
guilds known as Meistersinger A huge flowering of Concertos are among Germany. One of the leading The Hungarian composer contemporary composers
emerged. Unlike the musical talent took his most frequently creators in this tradition was Franz Liszt, who worked continued the traditions
Minnesänger, these artistes place in Germany performed works. the composer Ernst Theodor in Weimar from 1848 of the earlier masters.
adopted a settled lifestyle. during the 18th His sons – Wilhelm Amadeus Hoffmann (1776– to 1861, also One renowned
In the succeeding centuries, century, when Friedemann, Carl 1822), whose opera Undine significantly figure was Paul
both vocal and instrumental divisions both in Philipp Emanuel, was staged for the first time in contributed to Hindemith (1895–
music continued to evolve, with German politics and Johann Christoph 1816 in Berlin. Carl Maria von the evolution of 1963), whose work
many new forms appearing. religion led to the Friedrich and Weber (1786–1826) rose to German music. includes opera,
In the second half of the development Johann Christian – prominence following the In the second half ballet and concertos.
17th century, interest in organ of several important also became success of his opera Der of the 19th century, His music was banned
music developed and organ artistic and cultural Georg Friedrich Händel acclaimed com­ Freischütz, which was the first Richard Wagner was by the Nazis in 1933 and
schools were established in centres. The most (1685–1759) posers and opera in the German Romantic the major influence Richard Wagner in 1939, Hindemith
many towns. One of the renowned figure in made significant tradition. Another major figure on German opera. (1813–83) emigrated to the USA.
best was in Nuremberg. German music in the 18th contributions to German from this time was Felix During his early years, he Another important
This was directed by Johann century was undoubtedly classical music. Mendelssohn-Bartholdy, composed traditional operas figure was Carl Orff (1895–1982)
Georg Friedrich Händel was such as Tannhäuser. He later whose best-known work is the
another great composer of late developed his own creative oratorio Carmina Burana, based
Music Festivals Baroque music. Before forging synthesis, integrating lyrics on 13th-century Latin and
Germany is a country of a prestigious career in England, with the music. This found its German poems found in
musical festivals, which are usually he began as the cathedral finest expression in his Ring a Benedictine monastery
held in the summer and early organist in Halle, from where cycle, which was based on in Bavaria.
autumn. Among the most popular he transferred to the opera medieval sagas. The Austrian composer
are the festivals dedicated to the house in Hamburg. A friend of Wagner’s ideas about Arnold Schönberg (1874–1951)
works of a single composer, such as Händel and another important musical theatre, including lived in Berlin during the 1920s
Wagner in Bayreuth, Bach in various composer, Georg Philipp his use of leitmotifs (recurring and exerted great influence on
cities of Thuringia, Händel in Halle Telemann (1681– 1767) was phrases), were adopted by German music.
and Beet hoven in Bonn. Apart from employed as conductor at Richard Strauss (1864–1949), Among the most important
these specialized festivals, opera many German courts. His work who composed many operas, composers living and working in
festivals with a broader repertoire includes chamber music, symphonies and songs. Germany today, mention should
are also popular. These include the operas and church music. The first bars of his symphonic be made of Dieter Schnebel,
outdoor opera festival in Berlin and
The Bach festival in Leipzig’s Church Son of a court musician and poem Zarathustra became Helmut Lachenmann, Manfred
of St Thomas the Sommerfestspiele in Xanten. arguably the greatest figure in Composer Felix Mendelssohn-Bartholdy a guiding musical motif in Trojahn, Wolfgang Rihm and
classical music, Ludwig van (1809–47) Stanley Kubrick’s 1968 film Jörg Widmann.





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A POR TR AIT OF GERM AN Y  33



Beethoven (1770–1827) was whose “Wedding March” from
born in Bonn, although he A Midsummer Night’s Dream
worked mainly in Vienna. accompanies wedding
Among his best-known celebrations around the
works are his nine world. As well as this,
symphonies, as well as however, Mendelssohn’s
piano and violin legacy includes five
concertos, two symphonies, piano
masses, various music, chamber
chamber works and music and oratorios.
the opera Fidelio. In 1843, he founded
The life of this great Germany’s first music
composer is shrouded conser vatory, Composer and musician Clara
in legend. Succeeding in Leipzig. Schumann (1819–96)
gener ations have The master of
been fascinated not chamber music was 2001: A Space Odyssey.
just by his music, but Robert Schumann Johannes Brahms (1833–97)
also by the fact that (1810–56), a poet and composed in traditional forms
he began to lose his composer whose and was unsympathetic to the
hearing at the age of miniature works for progressive ideas of Wagner
30. During his final Statue of Ludwig van piano, violin sonatas and Liszt. From 1872 to 1875,
years, when totally Beethoven and song cycles all Brahms was the musical
deaf, he composed remain popular. director of the Gesellschaft
from memory. His wife, Clara Schumann der Musikfreunde (Society of
(1819–1896) was also a famous Friends of Music).
musician and composer, and
The 19th Century was the first person to publicly
Romanticism brought about perform work by the The 20th Century
the flowering of opera in Schumanns’ friend Brahms. During the 20th century, many
Germany. One of the leading The Hungarian composer contemporary composers
creators in this tradition was Franz Liszt, who worked continued the traditions
the composer Ernst Theodor in Weimar from 1848 of the earlier masters.
Amadeus Hoffmann (1776– to 1861, also One renowned
1822), whose opera Undine significantly figure was Paul
was staged for the first time in contributed to Hindemith (1895–
1816 in Berlin. Carl Maria von the evolution of 1963), whose work
Weber (1786–1826) rose to German music. includes opera,
prominence following the In the second half ballet and concertos.
success of his opera Der of the 19th century, His music was banned
Freischütz, which was the first Richard Wagner was by the Nazis in 1933 and
opera in the German Romantic the major influence Richard Wagner in 1939, Hindemith
tradition. Another major figure on German opera. (1813–83) emigrated to the USA.
from this time was Felix During his early years, he Another important
Mendelssohn-Bartholdy, composed traditional operas figure was Carl Orff (1895–1982)
such as Tannhäuser. He later whose best-known work is the
developed his own creative oratorio Carmina Burana, based
synthesis, integrating lyrics on 13th-century Latin and
with the music. This found its German poems found in
finest expression in his Ring a Benedictine monastery
cycle, which was based on in Bavaria.
medieval sagas. The Austrian composer
Wagner’s ideas about Arnold Schönberg (1874–1951)
musical theatre, including lived in Berlin during the 1920s
his use of leitmotifs (recurring and exerted great influence on
phrases), were adopted by German music.
Richard Strauss (1864–1949), Among the most important
who composed many operas, composers living and working in
symphonies and songs. Germany today, mention should
The first bars of his symphonic be made of Dieter Schnebel,
poem Zarathustra became Helmut Lachenmann, Manfred
Composer Felix Mendelssohn-Bartholdy a guiding musical motif in Trojahn, Wolfgang Rihm and
(1809–47) Stanley Kubrick’s 1968 film Jörg Widmann.





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34  INTRODUCING GERM AN Y A POR TR AIT OF GERM AN Y  35


German Painting Caspar David Friedrich (1774–
1840) was one of the most prominent
The diversity in German painting has its roots exponents of Romanticism. He
in the political and religious divisions that created poignant images, such
as this Traveller above the Sea of
existed in the country in the past. The Old Clouds, in which Man contemplates
Masters working in the north, for example, the power of Nature as created
were more likely to be influenced by the 0 kilometres 80 by God.
Netherlandish school, while artists working 0 miles 80
in the south leaned towards Italian styles.
German art reached the peak of its Paula Modersohn-Becker (1876–
individuality during the late-Gothic, late- 1907) was one of Germany’s most
Baroque and Expressionist periods – all impressive expressionist painters and
periods when one of the chief characteristics a pioneer of modernist techniques.
She was also the first female painter
of artistic style was strength of expression. to paint female nudes.. KielKiel
Max Liebermann (1847–
SCHLESWIG-SCHLESWIG- RostockRostock 1935) is considered one of
HOLSTEIN
Master Francke HOLSTEIN MECKLENBURG-MECKLENBURG- the leading representatives
(14th–15th century) LOWERLOWER of Impressionism. His Man
was the leading SchwerinSchwerin POMERANIAPOMERANIA with Parrots was painted
representative of the BremerhavenBremerhaven HamburgHamburg during his association
North German late- with the Berlin Secession.
Gothic style, working Schwedt/Schwedt/
in Hamburg c.1410–24. BremenBremen OderOder
He painted religious LOWER SAXONY,LOWER SAXONY,
scenes and his works HAMBURG AND BREMENHAMBURG AND BREMEN
include St Thomas’s Altar, BerlinBerlin Lionel Feininger
of which this is a detail. (1871–1956) was born
HanoverHanover PotsdamPotsdam in the USA but spent
MagdeburgMagdeburg BRANDENBURGBRANDENBURG much of his life in
BielefeldBielefeld Germany. He lectured
SAXONY-SAXONY- at the Bauhaus and
ANHALTANHALT painted Cubist-
DortmundDortmund inspired scenes of
HalleHalle architectural subjects,
DüsseldorfDüsseldorf LeipzigLeipzig
NORTH RHINE-NORTH RHINE- KasselKassel SAXONYSAXONY such as this
WESTPHALIAWESTPHALIA Gelmeroda IX.
ErfurtErfurt DresdenDresden
GeraGera
BonnBonn THURINGIATHURINGIA ChemnitzChemnitz
HESSEHESSE
Albrecht Dürer (1471–1528) is one
of the best-known German painters.
This great master of the Renaissance
period was also an outstanding
RHINELAND-RHINELAND- FrankfurtFrankfurt engraver and art-historian. His
PALATINATE ANDPALATINATE AND am Mainam Main Paumgärtners’ Altar was made for St
SAARLANDSAARLAND Catherine’s Church in Nuremberg.
Peter von Cornelius (1783–1867) joined the Nazarenes
during the anti-academic rebellion. He later became director NurembergNuremberg
of the academy in Düsseldorf and others. He painted the SaarbrückenSaarbrücken
picture The Wise and Foolish Maidens at that time.
RegensburgRegensburg
StuttgartStuttgart
BAVARIABAVARIA
Adam Elsheimer (1578–
1610) was born in BADEN-BADEN-
Frankfurt am Main but WÜRTTEMBERGWÜRTTEMBERG
spent most of his life in MunichMunich
Rome. His poignant FreiburgFreiburg
landscapes, such as The Wilhelm Leibl (1844–1900) painted this
Flight to Egypt shown scene of women praying in a village
here, greatly influenced church in Bavaria, Three Women in a
the development of Church, which is regarded as one of the
17th-century painting. outstanding works of German Realism.


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A POR TR AIT OF GERM AN Y  35



Caspar David Friedrich (1774–
1840) was one of the most prominent
exponents of Romanticism. He
created poignant images, such
as this Traveller above the Sea of
Clouds, in which Man contemplates
the power of Nature as created
0 kilometres 80 by God.
0 miles 80






Kiel
Max Liebermann (1847–
SCHLESWIG- Rostock 1935) is considered one of
HOLSTEIN the leading representatives
MECKLENBURG-
LOWER of Impressionism. His Man
Bremerhaven Schwerin POMERANIA with Parrots was painted
Hamburg during his association
with the Berlin Secession.
Schwedt/
Bremen Oder
LOWER SAXONY,
HAMBURG AND BREMEN
Berlin Lionel Feininger
(1871–1956) was born
Hanover Potsdam in the USA but spent
Magdeburg BRANDENBURG much of his life in
Bielefeld Germany. He lectured
SAXONY- at the Bauhaus and
ANHALT painted Cubist-
Dortmund inspired scenes of
Halle architectural subjects,
Düsseldorf Leipzig
NORTH RHINE- Kassel SAXONY such as this
WESTPHALIA Gelmeroda IX.
Erfurt Dresden
Gera
Bonn THURINGIA Chemnitz
HESSE
Albrecht Dürer (1471–1528) is one
of the best-known German painters.
This great master of the Renaissance
period was also an outstanding
RHINELAND- Frankfurt engraver and art-historian. His
PALATINATE AND am Main Paumgärtners’ Altar was made for St
SAARLAND Catherine’s Church in Nuremberg.
Nuremberg
Saarbrücken
Regensburg
Stuttgart
BAVARIA
BADEN-
WÜRTTEMBERG
Munich
Freiburg
Wilhelm Leibl (1844–1900) painted this
scene of women praying in a village
church in Bavaria, Three Women in a
Church, which is regarded as one of the
outstanding works of German Realism.





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36  INTRODUCING GERM AN Y A POR TR AIT OF GERM AN Y  37


Castles in Germany The Great Knights’ 19th-Century Castles
Hall, where knights
ate, drank and
In a number of German regions, medieval castles are The entertained, was a In the 19th century, many ruined
15th-century
among the most characteristic features of the landscape. Michaels- feature of every castle. castles in Germany were rebuilt in a
wave of nostalgia for the Middle Ages.
Some have survived only in the form of picturesque kapelle A number of completely new castles
ruins, but many others, refurbished and modernized were built, which were modelled on
over the years, continue to be the main residence for medieval designs.
the families for whom they were built. The most
impressive grouping of great fortresses is
to be found along the banks of the
Mosel and the central Rhine, while, in
the Münster area, you will see the Raesfeld is one of the most
most beautiful moated castles to beautiful castles in Münster-
have survived in the lowlands. land, a region of Westphalia Lichtenstein castle owes
that is renowned for its fame to the novel
its historic moated castles. Lichtenstein by Wilhelm
The castle was extended The Schwerin castle, originally built Hauff, and its beauty to
in the mid-17th century in the 16th century, was exten sively the Romantic style of a
for Alexandra II von Velen reconstructed in 1843–57 – work new castle built in 1840–41
(see p392). inspired by French castles along the on the grounds of a pre-
river Loire (see p474). existing one (see p319).

Evangelical The main entrance
Chapel to the castle leads
through a gate
house – here in the
form of a tower.
Schloß Neuschwan
stein, built for
Ludwig II, and an
Marburg Castle is one of the best-preserved inspira tion for
fortresses in Hesse. At its core is a 12th-century Disney land’s
building, but the castle’s current appearance is Sleeping Beauty
the result of work carried out between the 14th Castle, is one of the
and 16th centuries (see p373). The Royal Room best-known and
was an apartment most-visited castles in
specially designated Germany, receiving
for the use of some 1.4 million
important guests. visitors a year
(see p286–7).
The Wartburg in Eisenach
is one of the most impor-
tant monuments in
Thuringia, not only because
of its excellently preserved
architecture but also for its
association with Martin
Luther (see pp190–91).


Heidelberg Castle has Burg Hohenzollern
survived as a picturesque Gardens were laid
out in the 19th
ruin. A Gothic-Renaissance century in an area The family seat of the Hohenzollern family, Burg
structure of imposing between the Hohenzollern in Hechingen, is set on a clifftop in the
proportions, it continues to castle walls and Swabian Jura. The first building was established here
captivate with its the site of the in the 13th century and rebuilt many times over the Burg Eltz, set high above the Mosel, is one of
commanding position and farm buildings. years. The current medieval appearance is the result the most beautiful castles in Germany. Built
fascinating architecture of work that was carried out in 1850–67 in the spirit between the 12th and 16th centuries, it has
(see pp302–3). of romantic historicism (see p318). survived with very few alterations (see p349).




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A POR TR AIT OF GERM AN Y  37



19th-Century Castles
In the 19th century, many ruined
castles in Germany were rebuilt in a
wave of nostalgia for the Middle Ages.
A number of completely new castles
were built, which were modelled on
medieval designs.





Raesfeld is one of the most
beautiful castles in Münster-
land, a region of Westphalia Lichtenstein castle owes
that is renowned for its fame to the novel
its historic moated castles. Lichtenstein by Wilhelm
The castle was extended The Schwerin castle, originally built Hauff, and its beauty to
in the mid-17th century in the 16th century, was exten sively the Romantic style of a
for Alexandra II von Velen reconstructed in 1843–57 – work new castle built in 1840–41
(see p392). inspired by French castles along the on the grounds of a pre-
river Loire (see p474). existing one (see p319).

Evangelical The main entrance
Chapel to the castle leads
through a gate
house – here in the
form of a tower.
Schloß Neuschwan
stein, built for
Ludwig II, and an
inspira tion for
Disney land’s
Sleeping Beauty
Castle, is one of the
best-known and
most-visited castles in
Germany, receiving
some 1.4 million
visitors a year
(see p286–7).











Burg Hohenzollern
The family seat of the Hohenzollern family, Burg
Hohenzollern in Hechingen, is set on a clifftop in the
Swabian Jura. The first building was established here
in the 13th century and rebuilt many times over the Burg Eltz, set high above the Mosel, is one of
years. The current medieval appearance is the result the most beautiful castles in Germany. Built
of work that was carried out in 1850–67 in the spirit between the 12th and 16th centuries, it has
of romantic historicism (see p318). survived with very few alterations (see p349).





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38  INTRODUCING GERM AN Y A POR TR AIT OF GERM AN Y  39

German Scientists and Inventors 1989 Wolfgang Paul
and Hans Dehmelt
Germany is popularly regarded as a nation of practical people, receive the Nobel 1991 Erwin Neher
prize for research into
so it is hardly surprising that the history books abound with the nuclear and molecular and Bert Sakmann
1813 Karl
names of Germans who have made important contributions to Freiherr von Drais physics and for their receive the Nobel
prize for research
work in the 1950s
technological progress and the development of science. They invents the first developing the “Paul into defining
include Johann Gutenberg (around 1400–68), who invented two-wheeled vehicle – trap” – a device for the process of
communication
printing with movable type, and Karl Benz (1844–1929) and a kind of bicycle 1874 Otto Lilienthal constructs the first capturing ions between cells
Gottlieb Daimler (1834–1900) who developed the first petrol- 1831 Justus von Liebig glider for engineless flights 1987 Georg Bednorz and
driven car. In terms of Nobel Prize winners alone (and not 1791 Alexander von Humboldt, a develops a new method Karl A Müller receive the 1999 Günter
of chemical analysis
counting those who received the prize for achievements in other naturalist and geographer, 1876 Nikolaus Otto invents the Nobel prize for discovering Blobel is awarded
the Nobel prize
high temperature
discovers the presence of
fields), there is currently a total of 69 Germans. One of the most carbon dioxide in the air 1841 Julius Mayer internal combustion engine superconductivity in metal for discovering
illustrious of these is physicist Albert Einstein (1879–1955). formulates the oxides the process that
principle of conser- determines the
vation of energy direction of
1922 The Nobel movement and
c.1707 Johann 1865 Rudolf J E Prize is awarded the location
c.1600 Johann F Böttger Clausius to Albert Einstein, of proteins
Schult invents produces the formulates the who developed within cells
the dental mirror first European second law of the theory
1671 Gottfried porcelain thermodynamics of relativity
Wilhelm Leibniz,
philosopher and 1934 Ida Noddack (née Tacke), nomi-
mathematician, is 1882 Robert nated three times for the Nobel Prize in
1645 known for his Koch discovers Chemistry, is the first German physicist
Athanasius important the tuberculosis to mention the idea of nuclear fission.
Kircher philosophical 1718 Jacob 1747 Andreas Marggraf bacillus (Nobel 1980 Christiane Nüsslein-
constructs the works and his Leupold succeeds in extracting prize in 1905) Volhard and Eric Wieschaus
magic lantern – (disputed) claim to constructs the sugar crystals from identify and classify the
the first projector have invented first decimal sugar beet 15 genes that direct the
differential calculus scale cells to form a new fly.
1600 1650 1700 1750 18001800 1850 1900 1950 2000
1600 1650 1700 1750 18001800 1850 1900 1950 2000
1781 Martin H 1963 Nobel Prize
1669 Hennig 1694 Rudolph Jacob
Brand discovers Camerarius discovers the Klaproth, chemist, 1885 Karl awarded to Karl Ziegler
phosphorus existence of gender in discovers uranium Benz and for his work on industrial
production of polymers
plants, and explains the Gottlieb
role of stamens and Daimler
pollen in fertilization construct the
first petrol-
driven car 2012 Germany
1740 Johann Pott, porcelain is named as
pioneer, discovers manganese 1918 Nobel Prize the world’s top
1886 Heinrich
1609, 1619 Johannes Hertz discovers awarded to Max K photovoltaics (PV)
Kepler discovers the radio waves Planck who installer; the
principal laws of 1650 Otto von Guericke, 1745 Ewald G founded the 1944 Nobel Prize country has a
planetary movement researching air pressure von Kleist invents principles of awarded to Otto solar PV capacity
and electrostatic phenomena, quantum theory Hahn for discovery of more than
develops the vacuum pump the first electric
condenser (with Lise Meitner) 32 gigawatts, as of
1903 Arthur Korn of the process of December 2012
German Philosophers demonstrates how nuclear fission
to transmit a
German intellectuals have played a major role in the history of photograph from
philosophy. Gottfried Leibniz (1646–1716), for example, was 1866 Ernest W Siemens a distance
one of the most renowned develops the dynamo
exponents of modern rationalism. 1938 Ernst
At the turn of the 18th and 19th Ruska and
Max Knoll
centuries, Germany was a fertile 1850 Wilhelm Bauer construct the
source of new ideas, with the work constructs a submarine first electron
of philosophers such as Immanuel microscope
Kant and G W Friedrich Hegel. Karl 1841 Christian
Marx and Friedrich Engels Schönbein
discovers ozone
expounded materialism, while 1941 Konrad Zuse constructs the Z3
Friedrich Nietzsche developed his 1826 Georg S Ohm shows that calculator – the first digital “computer”
cultural and human philosophy. the ratio of a steady current to
Georg Wilhelm Friedrich Hegel Martin Heidegger and Karl Jaspers voltage is a constant 1901 Nobel Prize awarded to Wilhelm C Röntgen,
(1770–1831) were leading existentialists. for his discovery of X-rays and their uses
038-039_EW_Germany.indd 38 09/10/17 12:46 pm 038-039_EW_Germany.indd 39 09/10/17 12:46 pm

A POR TR AIT OF GERM AN Y  39


1989 Wolfgang Paul
and Hans Dehmelt
receive the Nobel 1991 Erwin Neher
prize for research into and Bert Sakmann
nuclear and molecular
1813 Karl physics and for their receive the Nobel
Freiherr von Drais work in the 1950s prize for research
invents the first developing the “Paul into defining
two-wheeled vehicle – trap” – a device for the process of
a kind of bicycle capturing ions communication
1874 Otto Lilienthal constructs the first between cells
1831 Justus von Liebig glider for engineless flights 1987 Georg Bednorz and
develops a new method Karl A Müller receive the 1999 Günter
of chemical analysis Blobel is awarded
1876 Nikolaus Otto invents the Nobel prize for discovering
internal combustion engine high temperature the Nobel prize
1841 Julius Mayer superconductivity in metal for discovering
formulates the oxides the process that
principle of conser- determines the
vation of energy direction of
1922 The Nobel movement and
1865 Rudolf J E Prize is awarded the location
Clausius to Albert Einstein, of proteins
formulates the who developed within cells
second law of the theory
thermodynamics of relativity
1934 Ida Noddack (née Tacke), nomi-
nated three times for the Nobel Prize in
1882 Robert Chemistry, is the first German physicist
Koch discovers to mention the idea of nuclear fission.
the tuberculosis
bacillus (Nobel 1980 Christiane Nüsslein-
prize in 1905) Volhard and Eric Wieschaus
identify and classify the
15 genes that direct the
cells to form a new fly.
1800 1850 1900 1950 2000
1800 1850 1900 1950 2000
1963 Nobel Prize
1885 Karl awarded to Karl Ziegler
Benz and for his work on industrial
Gottlieb production of polymers
Daimler
construct the
first petrol-
driven car 2012 Germany
is named as
1918 Nobel Prize the world’s top
1886 Heinrich awarded to Max K photovoltaics (PV)
Hertz discovers Planck who installer; the
radio waves
founded the 1944 Nobel Prize country has a
principles of awarded to Otto solar PV capacity
quantum theory Hahn for discovery of more than
(with Lise Meitner) 32 gigawatts, as of
1903 Arthur Korn of the process of December 2012
demonstrates how nuclear fission
to transmit a
photograph from
1866 Ernest W Siemens a distance
develops the dynamo
1938 Ernst
Ruska and
Max Knoll
1850 Wilhelm Bauer
constructs a submarine construct the
first electron
microscope
1841 Christian
Schönbein
discovers ozone
1941 Konrad Zuse constructs the Z3
1826 Georg S Ohm shows that calculator – the first digital “computer”
the ratio of a steady current to
voltage is a constant
1901 Nobel Prize awarded to Wilhelm C Röntgen,
for his discovery of X-rays and their uses
038-039_EW_Germany.indd 39 09/10/17 12:46 pm

40  INTRODUCING GERM AN Y A POR TR AIT OF GERM AN Y  41


German Beer How Beer is Brewed
The method of brewing beer that is now virtually standard dates
Although fine wines are produced in Germany, from the 19th century, when Czech brewers first produced
beer is unquestionably the country’s favourite bottom-fermented beers at lower temperatures.
alcoholic drink. Germans drink an average of The method was perfected by Gabriel Sedlmayr.
100 litres of beer annually and Bavarians lead the Each brewery has its secrets, but the initial
stages of production are the same.
world in consumption, drinking an average of
215 litres each per annum. Beer is drunk on every
occasion, but it tastes best in the summer when it The Mass is a tankard that is used to Mashing vat A climbing plant, hops are trained to grow up
is poured straight from a barrel at one of the serve beer in Bavaria. It holds a litre, but special supports
numerous festivals or public holidays. waitresses are used to carrying eight or
nine such tankards at a time.
The main ingredients in the
German Breweries 1production of beer are barley,
In Germany most towns and the larger hops and crystal-clear water.
villages have a brewery. The country’s Other grains, including wheat
and rice, can also be used – for
oldest brewery, established in 1040, is the Barley and example Weizenbier is made
Weihenstephan Benedictine monastery in hops from wheat rather than barley.
Freising, which is believed to be the oldest The first stage of brewing is
working brewery in the world. Many large malting, when the grains are
breweries and consortiums produce beer soaked and left to germinate.
that is known throughout the world, but After a few days, these are
beers produced by small operators, which The milled barley is mixed with warm dried and then milled.
are available only in a few regional pubs, are 2water and placed in a copper mashing vat.
in no way inferior. When visiting Germany, During the mashing process, the starches
do try the produce of small local breweries Logo of the famous Munich in the grain turn into fermentable sugars. The wort is put into a copper
as well as the beer produced by the giants, brewery, Paulaner The mash is then filtered to separate out a 3vessel with the hops and
Historic brewing facilities in such as Paulaner and Löwenbrau. liquid, known as the wort, from the mash. then cooked. Depending on
Freising (see p269) the amount of hops added,
the beer will be more
The wort is filtered again, cooled or less bitter. Traditionally
Styles of Beer 4and combined with yeast. the hops are added to
One of the most popular styles of beer is Pils (short for Pilsener) Fermentation then takes place. the vessel by hand, in
a light, bottom-fermented beer of the lager type. Of the At temperatures above 20° C carefully measured
seasonal beers, it is worth trying spring beers such as Maibock (68° F), the liquid reaches “top proportions. Some-
or Doppelbock, and in autumn the strong beer that is brewed fermentation”, which takes 3–5 times, however,
days. “Bottom fermentation”, where
they are added, as
especially for the Oktoberfest. In the lower Rhine valley, Altbier the temperature is below 12° C required, during
is still produced; this is a top-fermented beer, prepared by (54° F), takes 7–10 days. the cooking process.
traditional methods. In the south, Weizenbier, a wheat beer, is
also produced. The Berlin version, Berliner Weisse (white beer),
is served with fruit juice. Dark beers, such as Dunkel and The young beer produced by fermentation is
Schwarzbier, also enjoy great popularity. Breweries have their 5left to rest in special containers that enable a
own specialities. In Bamberg, they produce Rauchbier, which Wheat beer, higher pressure to be maintained. During this
has a light smokiness; in Kulmbach it is Eisbock, which gains Berliner Weisse resting stage, which can last from a couple
its thicker consistency of weeks to a year or even longer, the beer
through a freezing process. matures. The effect of resting the beer is to
make it stronger. Resting takes place in metal
Seasonal autumn or traditional wooden barrels.
beer, Bock
Drinking Beer
In Germany, beer is served with a head. Pouring lager from a
The mature beer,
barrel is supposed to take about 10 minutes, so the head sinks to 6which is ready to
the regulation level and has a thick consistency. A small beer is be sold, is then
normally 0.3 litre, a large one 0.5 litre. In Bavaria, however, a large transferred to
beer is served in a Mass, a tankard holding 1 litre. When travelling bottles or cans and
in Germany, order the brew of the local brewery, ideally in a Bierkeller pasteurized. This
or Bierstube (pub) and, in summer, in a Biergarten (beer garden). process removes
The largest gardens are in Bavaria – Munich’s Hirschgarten caters for micro-organisms
The largest pub in the world, created 8,000 beer drinkers. The Oktoberfest, which is celebrated each year that threaten the Traditional wooden barrels
during the Oktoberfest in Munich (see p231), is the largest beer festival in the world. quality of the beer. containing resting beer





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A POR TR AIT OF GERM AN Y  41



How Beer is Brewed
The method of brewing beer that is now virtually standard dates
from the 19th century, when Czech brewers first produced
bottom-fermented beers at lower temperatures.
The method was perfected by Gabriel Sedlmayr.
Each brewery has its secrets, but the initial
stages of production are the same.
Mashing vat
A climbing plant, hops are trained to grow up
special supports

The main ingredients in the
1production of beer are barley,
hops and crystal-clear water.
Other grains, including wheat
and rice, can also be used – for
Barley and example Weizenbier is made
hops from wheat rather than barley.
The first stage of brewing is
malting, when the grains are
soaked and left to germinate.
After a few days, these are
The milled barley is mixed with warm dried and then milled.
2water and placed in a copper mashing vat.
During the mashing process, the starches
in the grain turn into fermentable sugars. The wort is put into a copper
The mash is then filtered to separate out a 3vessel with the hops and
liquid, known as the wort, from the mash. then cooked. Depending on
the amount of hops added,
the beer will be more
The wort is filtered again, cooled or less bitter. Traditionally
4and combined with yeast. the hops are added to
Fermentation then takes place. the vessel by hand, in
At temperatures above 20° C carefully measured
(68° F), the liquid reaches “top proportions. Some-
fermentation”, which takes 3–5 times, however,
days. “Bottom fermentation”, where they are added, as
the temperature is below 12° C required, during
(54° F), takes 7–10 days. the cooking process.

The young beer produced by fermentation is
5left to rest in special containers that enable a
higher pressure to be maintained. During this
resting stage, which can last from a couple
of weeks to a year or even longer, the beer
matures. The effect of resting the beer is to
make it stronger. Resting takes place in metal
or traditional wooden barrels.



The mature beer,
6which is ready to
be sold, is then
transferred to
bottles or cans and
pasteurized. This
process removes
micro-organisms
that threaten the Traditional wooden barrels
quality of the beer. containing resting beer





040-041_EW_Germany.indd 41 09/10/17 12:53 pm

42  INTRODUCING GERM AN Y A POR TR AIT OF GERM AN Y  43


Sport in Germany Formula One

Sport has long enjoyed a significant role in German life Back in the 1930s, motor-racing
both for active participants and spectators. The country was dominated by the famous
regularly produces world champions in a variety of “Silver Arrows”, made by
Mercedes-Benz. Formula One
activities, including football, tennis and motor racing. has been a decidedly German
Excellent facilities exist throughout the country for taking discipline since its beginnings
part in sporting activities, including sailing, swimming, in 1950 and there have always
climbing and skiing as well as in field- or track-based been at least three German
events. Southern Germany plays host to a variety of drivers taking part. In 2014, The Hockenheim race track near Heidelberg
winter sports and competitions. hybrid engines were introduced
and the “Silver Arrows” once As well as in the German Alps, as it was then called. The
again dominated the sport. The which have the most popular following year 20 yachts
teams include a number of Robert Harting taking part in the discus German Formula One Grand Prix ski resorts, excellent conditions competed while thousands of
Football foreign players. The 2006 World competition at a Golden League meeting is held each July at the Hocken- exist for downhill and cross- spectators watched from the
The largest sports organi zation Cup was held in Germany. heim-Ring, near Heidel berg. country skiing in the less shore. The championship went
in the country, the German Germany’s former leading glamorous and less expensive on to become an international
Football Association has over Lawn Tennis driver, Michael Schumacher, Black Forest in Baden- event, which gained in prestige
6.8 million members in some The German Tennis Association won the World Championship Württemberg, and the Harz as the Emperor took part in
25,000 clubs. The national team is the largest in the world with in 1994 and 1995 and every year Mountains in Saxony-Anhalt. each race from 1894 until 1914.
has won the World Cup four over 1.4 million members, from 2000 to 2004. Other suc- Today it is traditional for the
times – in 1954, 1974, 1990 and belonging to some 9,400 clubs. cessful German drivers include Cycling president of the German
2014 – and the European Cup From the mid-1980s, Germany Sebastian Vettel, who was World Federal Republic to formally
in 1972, 1980 and 1996. The became one of the world’s Champion from 2010–2013, and Cycling enjoys a great follow- open the regatta (in the last
women’s national team has most successful tennis nations Nico Rosberg, who was World ing in Germany. The Tour de week of June) in which
won the FIFA Women’s World thanks to some outstanding Champion in 2016. France is broadcast simul- thousands of yachts from
Cup twice – in 2003 and 2007. players. In 1985, aged 17, Boris taneously by two television many countries take part.
One of German football’s Becker became the youngest stations, and ever-increasing
outstanding figures is Franz player to win the Wimbledon numbers of people are
Beckenbauer, a member of the Competing in Hamburg’s annual cham pionships. He repeated taking part in the sport, both Swimming
team that won the European Deutsches Spring Derby his achievement in 1986 and for pleasure and competitively. Swimming, more than any
Cup in 1972 and the World Cup 1989 and was runner-up to Success on the cycle track other sport in Germany, has
in 1974. He trained the team fellow-German Michael Stich has long been a German seen a decline in success
that came second in the 1986 Show-Jumping and in 1991. From 1987–91 Steffi tradition, but Jan Ullrich since reunification and the
Equestrian Events
World Cup and won in 1990. Graf was ranked number one exceeded expec tations subsequent cessation of
Beckenbauer was twice named Show-jumping is another sport among the world’s female when he won gold in the competition between East
Europe’s best footballer. at which Germany excels. Since tennis players. long distance at the Sydney and West. At the 1988
The best-known club is Bayern its introduction to the Olympic Olympics in 2000 and silver Olympics in Seoul, for
München, which has won the Games in 1912, German riders in the 2012 London Games. example, Kristin Otto won
German Cup a record 18 times. have won more than 30 gold Athletics six gold medals. In 2000,
Matches in the elite Bundesliga medals and many more have During the Cold War period, the reunified German team
enjoy a great following. League been awarded silver and bronze. East and West German Severin Freund at a round of the FIS Ski Sailing returned from Sydney
matches are on Friday, Saturday Major equ estrian events are athletes competed against Jumping World Cup in Willingen Kieler Woche is the most having gained only three
and Sunday afternoons while held in Ham burg and Aachen in each other for the glory of important regatta in the world, bronze medals. Two figures
European Cup games are usually June. Ham burg’s Derby Week is their rival political systems according to Paul Henderson, who rose to the top in the
on Wednesday evenings. Club popular with racing fans. as much as for the love of Skiing the President of the Inter- past are Michael Gross, who
their sport. The extraordinary Since 1953, the last week of national Sailing Federation. On was a member of the West
achievements of the East December and the first week of 1 September 1881, five officers German team, and Franziska
German athletes during January have been dominated of the Emperor’s navy held a van Almsick, a member of
that time have since been by the Four Ski Jumps yachting race in the Bay of Kiel, the East German team.
tarnished by revelations of Championship for ski jumpers.
systematic drug abuse. Since This classic event, which is held
reunification, some athletes in Oberstdorf and Garmisch-
have managed to maintain Partenkirchen in Germany, as
their reputations, but the well as in Innsbruck and
majority have not. Bischofshofen in Austria, attracts
Germany’s most important several thousand spectators and
event, the Internationales millions of television viewers.
Stadionfest (DKB-ISTAF), is German athletes have gained
held each year in Berlin, as first place in this competition
Football match between Borussia Moenchengladbach and SC Freiburg, Moenchengladbach the climax of the season. 16 times over the years. Franziska von Almsick during the German Swimming Championships





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A POR TR AIT OF GERM AN Y  43



Formula One
Back in the 1930s, motor-racing
was dominated by the famous
“Silver Arrows”, made by
Mercedes-Benz. Formula One
has been a decidedly German
discipline since its beginnings
in 1950 and there have always
been at least three German
drivers taking part. In 2014, The Hockenheim race track near Heidelberg
hybrid engines were introduced
and the “Silver Arrows” once As well as in the German Alps, as it was then called. The
again dominated the sport. The which have the most popular following year 20 yachts
German Formula One Grand Prix ski resorts, excellent conditions competed while thousands of
is held each July at the Hocken- exist for downhill and cross- spectators watched from the
heim-Ring, near Heidel berg. country skiing in the less shore. The championship went
Germany’s former leading glamorous and less expensive on to become an international
driver, Michael Schumacher, Black Forest in Baden- event, which gained in prestige
won the World Championship Württemberg, and the Harz as the Emperor took part in
in 1994 and 1995 and every year Mountains in Saxony-Anhalt. each race from 1894 until 1914.
from 2000 to 2004. Other suc- Today it is traditional for the
cessful German drivers include Cycling president of the German
Sebastian Vettel, who was World Federal Republic to formally
Champion from 2010–2013, and Cycling enjoys a great follow- open the regatta (in the last
Nico Rosberg, who was World ing in Germany. The Tour de week of June) in which
Champion in 2016. France is broadcast simul- thousands of yachts from
taneously by two television many countries take part.
stations, and ever-increasing
numbers of people are
taking part in the sport, both Swimming
for pleasure and competitively. Swimming, more than any
Success on the cycle track other sport in Germany, has
has long been a German seen a decline in success
tradition, but Jan Ullrich since reunification and the
exceeded expec tations subsequent cessation of
when he won gold in the competition between East
long distance at the Sydney and West. At the 1988
Olympics in 2000 and silver Olympics in Seoul, for
in the 2012 London Games. example, Kristin Otto won
six gold medals. In 2000,
the reunified German team
Sailing
Severin Freund at a round of the FIS Ski returned from Sydney
Jumping World Cup in Willingen Kieler Woche is the most having gained only three
important regatta in the world, bronze medals. Two figures
according to Paul Henderson, who rose to the top in the
Skiing the President of the Inter- past are Michael Gross, who
Since 1953, the last week of national Sailing Federation. On was a member of the West
December and the first week of 1 September 1881, five officers German team, and Franziska
January have been dominated of the Emperor’s navy held a van Almsick, a member of
by the Four Ski Jumps yachting race in the Bay of Kiel, the East German team.
Championship for ski jumpers.
This classic event, which is held
in Oberstdorf and Garmisch-
Partenkirchen in Germany, as
well as in Innsbruck and
Bischofshofen in Austria, attracts
several thousand spectators and
millions of television viewers.
German athletes have gained
first place in this competition
16 times over the years. Franziska von Almsick during the German Swimming Championships





042-043_EW_Germany.indd 43 09/10/17 12:53 pm

44  INTRODUCING GERM AN Y GERM AN Y THROUGH THE Y EAR  45

GERMANY THROUGH Summer Lights of Cologne (early July)
THE YEAR In Germany the summer is a Cologne. Very popular, big
fireworks event.
time of great open-air festivals Schwörmontag (penultimate
Germans love to have fun and this is evident preserve the tradition of an annual fair, or and other outdoor events and Monday) Ulm. Folk festival with
from the huge number of light-hearted events Jahrmarkt – known in Westphalia as Kirmes activities. Nearly every town and a parade by the Danube.
village has its festival with a
Kinderzeche (3rd Monday)
that are held throughout the year. Virtually and in Bavaria as Dult. Germany is also parade, street shows, concerts Dinkelsbühl. Ten-day folk festival
every town has a calendar of festivals and renowned for its music and film festivals, and fairs. In many places there commemorating the events of
fairs. These include folk festivals connected which attract an international audience, as are colourful illuminations and the Thirty Years’ War (1618–48).
with local traditions, such as celebrating the well as for organizing major international trade firework displays. Banquets and Richard-Wagner-Festspiele
asparagus or grape harvest. Many towns fairs, such as the annual Frankfurt Book Fair. knights’ tournaments are held in (last week July/August) Bayreuth.
historic castles, while concert Festival dedicated to the works
series are organized in palaces of Richard Wagner.
Hamburger Dom (March–April, and castles with the tourist Wikingerfest (August, even
July–August and November– particularly in mind. In June, years) Schleswig. Historical
December) Hamburg. The largest a number of classical music Luther’s Wedding is celebrated every year festival with costumed
folk festival in northern Germany, festivals take place, while July in Wittenberg participants, tournaments
held three times a year. is a popular month for water- and regattas.
Walpurgisnacht (30 April/1 related festivals. Kieler Woche (last week in June) Maschseefest (August) Hanover
May). On the witches’ sabbath, Kiel. Huge regatta with concerts (Hannover). Summer outdoor
witches gather on Brocken and fairs. carnival on the shores of
Mountain and in several other Classic Open Air (July) Lake Maschsee.
places in the Harz mountains. Berlin. Opera festival held on
Kurzfilmtage (end April/ early to outdoor stages.
mid-May). Oberhausen. The Schützenfest (June). The August
International Festival of Short traditional start of the hunting Zissel (beginning of August)
CeBit, held annually in Hanover, is the world’s largest computer expo Films has been held here season. Celebrated in many Kassel. Picturesque folk
since 1955. north German cities. festival with parades, markets
Catholic areas. On Easter and concerts.
Spring Sunday, in cities in the Luzyce Mainfest. Frankfurt am Main.
Spring is an idyllic time to region, horse races and a gala May July Feast of the river Main.
arrive in Germany. In the take place. Maibaumaufstellen (1 May). Landshuter Hochzeit (every Gäubodenvolksfest (mid-
high mountains, conditions Leipziger Buchmesse In Bavarian villages, maypoles 4th summer: next in 2017) August) Straubing. Folk festival
are still ideal for skiing, while (mid- to end March) Leipzig. are decorated with highly Competitors at the Internationales Landshut. Re-enactment of with a market and beer tasting.
in the valleys everything is Inter national book fair, with ornamental wreaths. Stadionfest (DKB-ISTAF) in Berlin the wedding feast of Georg, Weindorf (end August/early
already in bloom. In April antiquarian books. Rhein in Flammen (May– son of Duke Ludwig the Rich September) Stuttgart. Huge
and May the first spring fairs September). Festivals with June and Polish Princess Jadwiga. wine festival with wines
and festivals are held. Spring firework displays, in towns Costumed wedding procession served along with typical
is also time for the traditional April in the Rhine Valley. Bachfest Leipzig (early June) and medieval tournament. Swabian cuisine.
solemn observance of Easter Thüringer Bach-Wochen Hafengeburtstag (early May) Leipzig. International music
and its associated celebrations. (April). Celebration of the life Hamburg. A huge festival with competition dedicated to
May Day, which is also and works of Johann Sebastian fireworks, regatta and a parade Johann Sebastian Bach.
International Labour Day, is Bach with concerts and of sailing boats. Internationales Stadionfest
marked both by traditional lectures: held in Arnstadt, Ruhrfestspiele (May–June) (DKB-ISTAF), (early June) Berlin.
festivities and, in some cities, Eisenach, Erfurt, Gotha, Recklinghausen. Cultural The largest athletics event of
by demonstrations. Mühlhausen and Weimar. festival with a number of the season.
Hannover Messe (2nd half of concerts and performances. Luther’s Wedding (second
April) Hanover. International International Dixieland weekend in June) Wittenberg. A
March
industrial trade fairs. Festival (2nd week of May) celebration of the marriage of
Sommergewinn (3 weekends Dresden. A traditional Martin Luther to Katharina von
before Easter) Eisenach. The jazz festival has been Bora with music and a parade.
largest folk festival in Thur in gia, held here since 1971. Spreewaldfest (September)
linked with a fair. Blutritt (Friday after Spreewald. Festivals are held
CeBIT (beginning to mid-March) Ascension) Weingarten. throughout the summer in
Hanover. International trade A horseback proces­ Lübben and other villages.
fairs dedicated to information sion carrying religious Fronleichnam. Observed in
technology, telecommunications relics around the Catholic majority states.
and automation. town – held here for Processions in towns in Bavaria
Easter During Holy Week, over 450 years. and in Cologne.
Passion concerts are held Leineweber Markt Christopher Street Day (July).
throughout the country and (end of May) Bielefeld. Gay and lesbian parades held
colourful church services take The Hamburger Dom fair, a tri-annual event, is the Street theatre, jazz and in many cities, including Berlin
place, particularly in rural oldest and largest of its kind in Germany folk concerts. and Cologne. Fireworks light up the sky over Cologne, highlighting the cathedral




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GERM AN Y THROUGH THE Y EAR  45


Lights of Cologne (early July)
Summer
Cologne. Very popular, big
In Germany the summer is a fireworks event.
time of great open-air festivals Schwörmontag (penultimate
and other outdoor events and Monday) Ulm. Folk festival with
activities. Nearly every town and a parade by the Danube.
village has its festival with a Kinderzeche (3rd Monday)
parade, street shows, concerts Dinkelsbühl. Ten-day folk festival
and fairs. In many places there commemorating the events of
are colourful illuminations and the Thirty Years’ War (1618–48).
firework displays. Banquets and Richard-Wagner-Festspiele
knights’ tournaments are held in (last week July/August) Bayreuth.
historic castles, while concert Festival dedicated to the works
series are organized in palaces of Richard Wagner.
and castles with the tourist Wikingerfest (August, even
particularly in mind. In June, years) Schleswig. Historical
a number of classical music Luther’s Wedding is celebrated every year festival with costumed
festivals take place, while July in Wittenberg participants, tournaments
is a popular month for water- and regattas.
related festivals. Kieler Woche (last week in June) Maschseefest (August) Hanover
Kiel. Huge regatta with concerts (Hannover). Summer outdoor
and fairs. carnival on the shores of
Classic Open Air (July) Lake Maschsee.
Berlin. Opera festival held on
outdoor stages.
Schützenfest (June). The August
traditional start of the hunting Zissel (beginning of August)
season. Celebrated in many Kassel. Picturesque folk
north German cities. festival with parades, markets
and concerts.
Mainfest. Frankfurt am Main.
July
Feast of the river Main.
Landshuter Hochzeit (every Gäubodenvolksfest (mid-
4th summer: next in 2017) August) Straubing. Folk festival
Competitors at the Internationales Landshut. Re-enactment of with a market and beer tasting.
Stadionfest (DKB-ISTAF) in Berlin the wedding feast of Georg, Weindorf (end August/early
son of Duke Ludwig the Rich September) Stuttgart. Huge
and Polish Princess Jadwiga. wine festival with wines
June Costumed wedding procession served along with typical
Bachfest Leipzig (early June) and medieval tournament. Swabian cuisine.
Leipzig. International music
competition dedicated to
Johann Sebastian Bach.
Internationales Stadionfest
(DKB-ISTAF), (early June) Berlin.
The largest athletics event of
the season.
Luther’s Wedding (second
weekend in June) Wittenberg. A
celebration of the marriage of
Martin Luther to Katharina von
Bora with music and a parade.
Spreewaldfest (September)
Spreewald. Festivals are held
throughout the summer in
Lübben and other villages.
Fronleichnam. Observed in
Catholic majority states.
Processions in towns in Bavaria
and in Cologne.
Christopher Street Day (July).
Gay and lesbian parades held
in many cities, including Berlin
and Cologne. Fireworks light up the sky over Cologne, highlighting the cathedral




044-045_EW_Germany.indd 45 09/10/17 12:46 pm

46  INTRODUCING GERM AN Y GERM AN Y THROUGH THE Y EAR  47


Fastnacht, also known as
Autumn
Fasnet, Fasching or Karneval
Autumn is an extremely popular (Shrovetide). Carnival is
time for tourism in Germany, celebrated enthusiastically
especially September and early in virtually every region
October when many cities, of Germany. The most
including Berlin and Munich, interesting events are held in
organize cultural events and the Rhine Valley, and particularly
important festivals. The autumn in Cologne. Karneval am Rhein,
is also the time when the most which marks the lasts three
significant trade fairs and great days of the Carnival, begins
sporting events take place. on the Thursday of the week
At this time, also, conditions before Ash Wednesday with
in the mountains and country­ a women’s parade, known
side continue to be ideal for as Weiberfastnacht. On the
outdoor activities such as Monday there is a superb
walking and cycling. costume parade, known as
Rosenmontagsumzug.
Pumpkin race during Dorffest
September
Berlinale – the grand festival of world cinema
Musikfest Berlin. The Musikfest parade through the city’s Frankfurter Buchmesse
features some of the best streets. Ceremonial removal (2nd week in October) Frankfurt Winter of the month until Christmas
orchestras in the world, with of the bung from a new barrel am Main. The world’s largest Eve. The most beautiful are in
performances in concert halls of beer that has been brewed book fair, which attracts December is synonymous with Baden-Württemberg and in
across the city. for the festival. publishers from around the Christmas festivities. Every city Bavaria, while the most
Beethovenfestival, Bonn. Plärrer (May and September) world and also features talks has fairs where you can buy renowned is held in Nuremberg.
A musical festival celebrating the Augsburg. Two­week festival by authors. Christmas-tree decorations, Christmas (25/26 December).
works of Beethoven in the city held twice a year, considered Freimarkt (mid-October) delicacies and presents. In Traditionally celebrated through-
where he was born. one of the most important Bremen. Two­week folk festival December, shops have longer out Germany. A Christmas tree is
Heilbronner Herbst (1st in Swabia. beginning with a procession. opening hours and the skiing considered essential, together Costumed revellers on the streets of
Saturday) Heilbronn. Popular Dorffest im Spreewald Liszt-Tage Weimar. Celebration season begins in the Alps. with presents and delicacies. Cologne during Carnival
wine festival, which also includes (end of September) Lehde. of the life and work of Franz January and February are a time New Year’s Eve (31 December).
parades and firework displays. Folk festival. Liszt, with concerts at which for parties and balls (the Carnival The New Year is celebrated at Public Holidays
Berlin-Marathon (mid-late Cannstatter Wasen (end world­class musicians are season), with enjoyment balls, opera galas, in restaurants,
September) Berlin. Marathon September/beginning October) invited to perform. reaching a peak in the last few clubs, private houses and in the Neujahr New Year (1 Jan).
through the streets of the city Stuttgart. The second largest Colmansfest (2nd Sunday) days of the season. Then the fun streets and squares of city centres. Hl. Dreikönige Three Kings
centre, taking in several notable beer festival in the world. Schwangau. Religious festival continues all weekend from Four Ski Jumps Tournament (6 Jan: Bavaria, Baden-
landmarks, with runners in featuring hundreds of horses Thursday, reaching a height on (early December–January). Württemberg, Saxony-Anhalt).
various age groups and the and decorated carriages. Rosenmontag then diminishing Renowned tournament for ski- Karfreitag Good Friday.
participation of the disabled October Kasseler Musiktage (end on the last Tuesday of Carnival. jumping held annually in Ostern Easter.
in wheelchairs. Tag der Deutschen Einheit of October) Kassel. One of Garmisch-Partenkirchen. Maifeiertag/Tag der Arbeit
Oktoberfest (last two weeks of (3 October). National holiday, Europe’s longest­established December Labour Day.
September) Munich. World­ established after re­unification. classical music festivals. Christi Himmelfahrt Ascension.
famous beer festival held over Celebrated with concerts, Christkindelsmarkt and January Pfingsten Pentecost.
16 days, beginning with a parades and meetings. Weihnachtsmarkt. Christmas Sechs-Tage-Rennen (early to
November Fronleichnam Corpus Christi
fairs are held from the beginning mid-January) Berlin. Spectacular
Weinfest (1st weekend in cycle races with associated (Bavaria, Baden-Württemberg,
Hesse, North Rhine Valley-
November) Cochem. Festival events, held in Berlin Westphalia, Rhine Valley-
celebrating the removal of Velodrome. Palatinate and Saar).
the bung from the first barrel Grüne Woche (3rd week) Berlin. Mariä Himmelfahrt
of young Mosel wine. International trade fairs dedicated Assumption of the Blessed
Martinsfest (11 November). to agriculture, animal breeding Virgin Mary
St Martin’s Day is celebrated and the food processing industry. (15 Aug: Bavaria, Saar).
in northern Baden and the Producers from all over the world Nationalfeiertag
Rhineland with fairs and offer specialities from their own Reunification of Germany Day
the essential roast goose. national cuisines. (3 Oct).
In the Rhine Valley, it Allerheiligen All Saints
signi fies the beginning February (1 Nov: Bavaria, Baden-
of the Carnival season. Württemberg, North Rhine
Internationales Filmfestival Berlinale–Internationale Valley-Westphalia, Rhine
(2nd week in November) Filmfestspiele (2nd and 3rd Valley-Palatinate).
Mannheim­Heidelberg. Annual weeks) Berlin. International Weihnachten Christmas
festival of short, documentary The famous Christmas market in the city film festival in which major (25/26 Dec).
The International Book Fair in Frankfurt am Main and educational films. of Nuremberg stars participate.



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GERM AN Y THROUGH THE Y EAR  47


Fastnacht, also known as
Fasnet, Fasching or Karneval
(Shrovetide). Carnival is
celebrated enthusiastically
in virtually every region
of Germany. The most
interesting events are held in
the Rhine Valley, and particularly
in Cologne. Karneval am Rhein,
which marks the lasts three
days of the Carnival, begins
on the Thursday of the week
before Ash Wednesday with
a women’s parade, known
as Weiberfastnacht. On the
Monday there is a superb
costume parade, known as
Rosenmontagsumzug.
Berlinale – the grand festival of world cinema
of the month until Christmas
Winter Eve. The most beautiful are in
December is synonymous with Baden-Württemberg and in
Christmas festivities. Every city Bavaria, while the most
has fairs where you can buy renowned is held in Nuremberg.
Christmas-tree decorations, Christmas (25/26 December).
delicacies and presents. In Traditionally celebrated through-
December, shops have longer out Germany. A Christmas tree is
opening hours and the skiing considered essential, together Costumed revellers on the streets of
season begins in the Alps. with presents and delicacies. Cologne during Carnival
January and February are a time New Year’s Eve (31 December).
for parties and balls (the Carnival The New Year is celebrated at Public Holidays
season), with enjoyment balls, opera galas, in restaurants,
reaching a peak in the last few clubs, private houses and in the Neujahr New Year (1 Jan).
days of the season. Then the fun streets and squares of city centres. Hl. Dreikönige Three Kings
continues all weekend from Four Ski Jumps Tournament (6 Jan: Bavaria, Baden-
Thursday, reaching a height on (early December–January). Württemberg, Saxony-Anhalt).
Rosenmontag then diminishing Renowned tournament for ski- Karfreitag Good Friday.
on the last Tuesday of Carnival. jumping held annually in Ostern Easter.
Garmisch-Partenkirchen. Maifeiertag/Tag der Arbeit
December Labour Day.
January Christi Himmelfahrt Ascension.
Christkindelsmarkt and Pfingsten Pentecost.
Weihnachtsmarkt. Christmas Sechs-Tage-Rennen (early to
fairs are held from the beginning mid-January) Berlin. Spectacular Fronleichnam Corpus Christi
(Bavaria, Baden-Württemberg,
cycle races with associated Hesse, North Rhine Valley-
events, held in Berlin Westphalia, Rhine Valley-
Velodrome. Palatinate and Saar).
Grüne Woche (3rd week) Berlin. Mariä Himmelfahrt
International trade fairs dedicated Assumption of the Blessed
to agriculture, animal breeding Virgin Mary
and the food processing industry. (15 Aug: Bavaria, Saar).
Producers from all over the world Nationalfeiertag
offer specialities from their own Reunification of Germany Day
national cuisines. (3 Oct).
Allerheiligen All Saints
February (1 Nov: Bavaria, Baden-
Württemberg, North Rhine
Berlinale–Internationale Valley-Westphalia, Rhine
Filmfestspiele (2nd and 3rd Valley-Palatinate).
weeks) Berlin. International Weihnachten Christmas
The famous Christmas market in the city film festival in which major (25/26 Dec).
of Nuremberg stars participate.




046-047_EW_Germany.indd 47 09/10/17 12:46 pm

48  INTRODUCING GERM AN Y GERM AN Y THROUGH THE Y EAR  49

The German Climate SCHLESWIG- MECKLENBURG-
HOLSTEIN LOWER POMERANIA BRANDENBURG
Germany lies in a temperate climatic °C 20 Average daily maximum °C 21 °C 24
zone. In the north of the country, with (F) 10.5 (68) 13 temperature (F) 10 (70) 12.5 (F) (55) (75) 14
13
13
marine influences predominating, 2.2 (51) (54) (55) 3 (50) 14 (55) 2 (55) (57)
12
7.5
7
6
summers tend to be quite cold and (36) 3 (45) Average daily minimum (37) (39) (57) (46) (36) (38) (43)
3.5
4
winters mild, with relatively high rainfall. 0 -2 (37) temperature 0 -2 0 -3
In the eastern part of the country, (28) Average daily (28) (27)
however, the climate is more continental 1.3 5.5 7 hrs 3 hrs amount of sunshine FlensburgFlensburg 1.5 5.5 7.5 3.5 1.5 5.5 7.5 3.7
hrs
hrs
hrs
hrs
hrs
hrs
hrs
hrs
hrs
hrs
and this produces harsher winters and 80 55 92 90 SchleswigSchleswig BergenBergen 40 42 72 50 44 44 52 35
hotter summers. Germany’s highest mm mm mm mm Average monthly Kiel mm mm mm mm mm mm mm mm
Kiel
rainfall and the lowest temp eratures month Jan Apr Jul Oct rainfall RostockRostock month Jan Apr Jul Oct month Jan Apr Jul Oct
are recorded in the Alps. WismarWismar
LübeckLübeck GüstrowGüstrow
BREMEN, HAMBURG, HamburgHamburg NeubrandenburgNeubrandenburg BERLIN
LOWER SAXONY
24
°C 22 14 BremenBremen WittenbergeWittenberge °C 13 (75)
(F) 12.5 (72) NeuruppinNeuruppin (F)
(55) 12 (57) (55) 13 13
3.2 (54) 6 NienburgNienburg StendalStendal 2 (55) (55)
(38) 3.5 BerlinBerlin (36) 4 5
(38) (43) BrandenburgBrandenburg (39) (41)
0 HanoverHanover PotsdamPotsdam 0
-2 -4
(28) NORTH RHINE- MagdeburgMagdeburg LuckenwaldeLuckenwalde SAXONY-ANHALT (25)
1.3 5 hrs 6 hrs 3 hrs WESTPHALIA MünsterMünster 1.9 6.4 8.1 4.1
hrs DessauDessau LutherstadtLutherstadt 23 hrs hrs hrs hrs
°C 23 PaderbornPaderborn WittenbergWittenberg CottbusCottbus °C
56 48 69 55 (F) 14 (73) 15 (F) 13 (73) 43 41 70 47
mm mm mm mm (57) 12.5 (59) DortmundDortmund GöttingenGöttingen HalleHalle (55) 12 14 mm mm mm mm
4.5 (55) LeipzigLeipzig (57)
month Jan Apr Jul Oct (40) 3.6 6 DüsseldorfDüsseldorf KasselKassel DresdenDresden 2.4 3.5 (54) 6 month Jan Apr Jul Oct
(36)
0 (38) (43) CologneCologne EisenachEisenach AltenburgAltenburg 0 (58) (43)
-1 SiegenSiegen WeimarWeimar -3
(30) AachenAachen BonnBonn MarburgMarburg GothaGotha ChemnitzChemnitz (27)
HESSE 1.5 5 hrs 6.5 3.7 FuldaFulda PlauenPlauen 1.5 5 hrs 7 hrs 3.5 SAXONY
hrs hrs hrs hrs hrs
24 KoblenzKoblenz
°C (75) 62 54 84 55 FrankfurtFrankfurt HofHof 33 40 48 29 °C 22
(F) 14 14 mm mm mm mm am Mainam Main mm mm mm mm (F) 12 (72) 13
(57) 13 (57) MainzMainz (54) 12 (55)
3 (55) 6 month Jan Apr Jul Oct TrierTrier WürzburgWürzburg BambergBamberg month Jan Apr Jul Oct 1.5 (54) 6
(37) 4 (43) (35) 3 (43)
0 (39) MannheimMannheim 0 (37)
-2 NurembergNuremberg -4
(28) SaarbrückenSaarbrücken HeidelbergHeidelberg (39)
1.3 5 hrs 7.4 3.3 2 hrs 4.5 6.6 4 hrs
hrs hrs hrs KarlsruheKarlsruhe RegensburgRegensburg hrs hrs
44 51 63 50 NeuburgNeuburg 42 55 76 47
mm mm mm mm StuttgartStuttgart PassauPassau mm mm mm mm
month Jan Apr Jul Oct UlmUlm AugsburgAugsburg month Jan Apr Jul Oct
MunichMunich
FreiburgFreiburg
RHINELAND-PALAT- im Breisgauim Breisgau
INATE, SAARLAND KonstanzKonstanz KemptenKempten Garmisch-Garmisch- BAVARIA THURINGIA
PartenkirchenPartenkirchen
23
°C (73) 14 BADEN- °C 23 °C 22
(F) 13 MUNICH (F) 14 (73) 13 (F) 12 (72) 13
(55) 12 (57) WÜRTTEMBERG (57) 12 (55) (54) 12 (55)
3 (54) 7 23 23 2 (54) (54)
(37) 4 (45) °C 14 (73) 15 °C 13 (73) 13 (36) 3 3 1.5 3 5
(F)
(35)
0 (39) (F) (57) 13 (59) (55) (55) 0 (37) (37) 0 (37) (41)
-1.5 12 -4 -3.5
(29) 4 (55) 7 1 (54) (25)
(39) 5 3 4 (26)
1.3 (41) (45) (34) 1.5 7.5 1.7
5 hrs 7 hrs 3 hrs 0 0 (37) (39) 5 hrs 4 hrs 5 hrs 7 hrs 4 hrs
hrs -1 -6 hrs hrs hrs
(30) (43)
60 53 69 65 46 47 69 45 24.5 45 46 33
mm mm mm mm 1.7 5 hrs 8 hrs 4 hrs 2.2 6 hrs 7.7 4.6 mm mm mm mm mm mm mm mm
hrs 0 km 100 hrs hrs hrs
month Jan Apr Jul Oct month Jan Apr Jul Oct month Jan Apr Jul Oct
60 80 95 66 0 miles 100 59 62 140 67
mm mm mm mm mm mm mm mm
month Jan Apr Jul Oct month Jan Apr Jul Oct
048-049_EW_Germany.indd 48 09/10/17 12:54 pm 048-049_EW_Germany.indd 49 09/10/17 12:54 pm
Eyewitness Travel LAYERS PRINTED:
Flashmap template “UK” LAYER
(Source v1.1)
Date 19th July 2012
Size 125mm x 217mm