(DK Eyewitness) Travel Guide - Germany

SA X ON Y–ANHAL T  149


Pritzwalk

Seehausen
Salzwedel
HAVELBERG
Milde
Jeetze
Elbe
Kakerbeck Bismark
Klötze (Altmark)
STENDAL
Gardelegen TANGERMÜNDE
Jerichow
Colbitz- Listening to a summer water concert, in Wörlitz Park
Letzinger
Heide
Genthin Getting Around
The A2 motorway from Hanover to Berlin runs through
Ohre
Haldensleben Magdeburg to the northern part of the region. Another
Wolmirstedt Burg motorway, the A9 which links Berlin and Munich, provides easy
Hanover Potsdam access to Dessau and Halle, which is also served by the recently
constructed A14 motorway from Leipzig to Magdeburg. Other
major and minor roads, well signposted, provide access to smaller
towns and villages. Larger towns are easily accessed by rail or
MAGDEBURG local bus services. In the Harz Mountains the narrow-gauge train
Aller
SACHSEN- ANHAL T is an alternative form of transport.
Oschersleben
Huysburg Schönebeck
Oker
Osterwieck
Saale Zerbst
HALBERSTADT Bode Rosslau Coswig
WERNIGERODE LUTHERSTADT
Stassfurt WITTENBERG
PARK
Brocken Blankenburg QUEDLINBURG BERNBURG DESSAU WÖRLITZ
1142m
Oranienbaum
Elbingerode THE HARZ Aschersleben Köthen Mulde Schwarze Elster
MOUNTAIN TRAIL
Fuhne Wolfen Elbe
Hettstedt
Harzgerode Saale
Bitterfeld
Sights at a Glance
1 Halberstadt
Eisleben
2 Wernigerode
Sangerhausen 4 Quedlinburg
Helme HALLE
Göttingen Leipzig 5 Bernburg
6 Halle
QUERFURT 7 Merseburg
MERSEBURG 8 Querfurt
Key 9 Naumburg pp154–5
0 Magdeburg p156
Unstrut
Nebra Motorway q Stendal
Weissenfels Major road w Havelberg
Minor road e Tangermünde
NAUMBURG Under construction r Dessau
Scenic route t Lutherstadt Wittenberg pp158–9
Main railway y Wörlitz Park pp160–61
Zeitz
Minor railway
Tours
Regional border
Gera 3 The Harz Mountain Trail
Summit
For hotels and restaurants in this area see pp493–4 and pp513–14
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150  EASTERN GERM AN Y SA x on y–A n HAL T  151


and a massive castle rises above
the town. The Harzquerbahn, a 3 The Harz Mountain Trail Tips for Drivers
narrow-gauge railway which
links the small towns and villages The tourist trail across the Harz Mountains leads Length: 55 km (34 miles).
in the Harz Mountains, between through charming historic towns and villages, as well Stopping places: there are many
Wernigerode and Nordhausen, as past the other attractions of the region including attractive restaurants all along the
provides another popular tourist some fascinating caves and unusual rock formations. trail, in every town.
attraction. The Brockenbahn _ Walpurgisnacht,
Thale: 30 Apr.
runs between Wernigerode and
the Brocken mountain.
Strolling around the Old Town 1 The Rübeland 2 Blankenburg
it is well worth stepping into Caves This charming mountain town is
Rübeland’s main
St John’s Church, featuring a attractions are the overlooked by an 18th-century castle.
Romanesque west tower. It Hermannshöhle and The Teufelsmauer, a spectacular 4-km
(2-mile) long sandstone cliff, attracts
contains some late-Gothic feat- Baumannshöhle, many climbers.
ures, including the font and the two caves with
altar. The variety of ornaments amazing stalactites 3 Thale
adorning the houses in and stalagmites. Many mountain walks start in Thale,
Interior of the Gothic Cathedral of Halberstadt Wernigerode is truly staggering. including one to the Hexentanzplatz,
Particularly interesting are the a platform suspended above a cliff,
1 Halberstadt richest cathedral treasuries – the houses along Breite Strasse, the from where witches fly to Sabbath
Domschatz, with precious 12th- town’s main shopping street celebrations in the Walpurgis Night.
Road map D3. * 42,000. £ @
n Hinter dem Rathause 6 (03941- century tapestries, numerous which is closed to traffic.
55 18 15). ∑ halberstadt.de sculptures and liturgical vessels. Wernigerode
Other interesting churches to + Schloss Wernigerode
Halberstadt enjoys a have survived in the old town Am Schloss 1. Tel 03943-55 30 30.
picturesque location in the district include the Roman- # May–Oct: 10am–6pm; Nov–Apr: J
foothills of the Harz es que 12th-century 10am–5pm Tue–Fri, 10am–6pm Sat & Elbingerode Quedlinburg Hoym
Mountains. Its history Liebfrauenkirche Sun. &
goes back to the and the Gothic The fairy-tale castle, spiked with
9th century, when it Marktkirche St turrets, was built during the years
became a seat of a Martini with a 1861–83 on the site of an older J J Ermsleben
mission episcopate. statue of Roland, fortress. Now a museum, it J
Once an important symbolizing the houses the Stolberg-Wernigerode BODETA
town, Halberstadt freedom of the family art collection. The castle J
had 80 per cent Romanesque Crucifixion group city. Remaining ramparts afford a fantastic view
of its buildings in the Dom, Halberstadt timber-frame of the town and the nearby Hasselfelde RAMBERG
destroyed during houses can be seen Harz mountains.
World War II. Fortunately, many in Gröper- and Taubenstrasse.
of its beautiful historic buildings Environs
have been restored to their E Domschatz The small town of Osterwieck, 7 Harzgerode Güntersberge
former glory. Tel 03941 24237. # Apr–Oct: 22 km (14 miles) to the north, The town has STIEGE
The vast St Stephans Dom is 10am–5:30pm daily (from 11am Sun); has over 400 timber-frame charming timber-
the fourth successive church Nov–Mar: 10am–4pm Tue–Sun. buildings, dating mainly from frame houses
built on the same site. Construc- 8 obligatory. ∑ dom-und- the 16th and in the Old Town,
tion began in the 13th century domschatz.de 17th centuries. and a 16th- Kurort
and the church was consecrated century castle. Stolberg 4 Gernrode
in 1491. The two-tower tran- Environs The star attraction
septial basilica ranks as one of An original 12th-century 6 Burg Falkenstein in this town is the
the most beautiful pure Gothic Benedictine church stands in This huge castle, built in the 12th 10th-century church of St
forms in Germany. Its oldest part Huysburg, 11 km (7 miles) to century and extended many times, is Cyriacus. Its interior is
is the 12th-century font. Also the northwest. now a museum. From the castle, the devoid of ornaments, yet
notable are the Romanesque visitor can enjoy a splendid view over enchantingly pure in form.
Crucifixion group (c.1220), set the surrounding Harz Mountains.
above the choir screen, and 2 Wernigerode Key
several examples of Gothic Road map D3. * 36,000. £ @ Tour route
sculpture. Stained-glass windows n Marktplatz 10 (03943-55 37 835). 5 Ballenstedt
from around 1330 have survived _ Rathausfest (Jun); Schlossfestspiele The former home of the Other road
in the Marian Chapel, and (Jul & Aug). ∑ wernigerode.de von Anhalt-Bemburg family Scenic route
15th-century windows can be enchants visitors to this day
found along the cloisters and in Wernigerode is attractively with its imaginative design,
the presbytery. situated at a confluence of two including the Baroque 0 km 2
The adjoining chapter build- rivers. Timber-frame houses lean The romantic façade of Schloss castle set in a park. 0 miles 2
ings contain one of Ger many’s across its steep, winding streets, Wernigerode, now a museum
For hotels and restaurants in this area see pp493–4 and pp513–14 For map symbols see back flap


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SA x on y–A n HAL T  151


3 The Harz Mountain Trail Tips for Drivers

The tourist trail across the Harz Mountains leads Length: 55 km (34 miles).
through charming historic towns and villages, as well Stopping places: there are many
attractive restaurants all along the
as past the other attractions of the region including trail, in every town.
some fascinating caves and unusual rock formations. _ Walpurgisnacht,
Thale: 30 Apr.
1 The Rübeland 2 Blankenburg
Caves This charming mountain town is
Rübeland’s main overlooked by an 18th-century castle.
attractions are the The Teufelsmauer, a spectacular 4-km
Hermannshöhle and (2-mile) long sandstone cliff, attracts
Baumannshöhle, many climbers.
two caves with
amazing stalactites 3 Thale
and stalagmites. Many mountain walks start in Thale,
including one to the Hexentanzplatz,
a platform suspended above a cliff,
from where witches fly to Sabbath
celebrations in the Walpurgis Night.

Wernigerode

J
Quedlinburg Hoym
Elbingerode

J Ermsleben
J
J
BODETA
J
Hasselfelde RAMBERG


7 Harzgerode Güntersberge
The town has STIEGE
charming timber-
frame houses
in the Old Town,
and a 16th-
century castle. Kurort
Stolberg 4 Gernrode
The star attraction
6 Burg Falkenstein in this town is the
This huge castle, built in the 12th 10th-century church of St
century and extended many times, is Cyriacus. Its interior is
now a museum. From the castle, the devoid of ornaments, yet
visitor can enjoy a splendid view over enchantingly pure in form.
the surrounding Harz Mountains.
Key
Tour route
5 Ballenstedt Other road
The former home of the
von Anhalt-Bemburg family Scenic route
enchants visitors to this day
with its imaginative design,
including the Baroque 0 km 2
castle set in a park. 0 miles 2

For map symbols see back flap


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152  EASTERN GERM AN Y SA X ON Y–ANHAL T  153


the Romanesque reliquary of Bernburg Schloß, built on a 8 Querfurt
St Servatius and the remaining rock. It owes its present look to Road map D4. * 11,000. @
fragments of the 12th-century refurbishments (1540–70), yet n Markt 14 (034771-237 99) _
Knüpfteppich (tapestry). The many features are much older, Brunnenfest (Jun). ∑ querfurt.de
Quedlinburg Schloß, a including the 12th-century
Renaissance palace surrounded Romanesque chapels and The narrow streets of Querfurt
by gardens, occupies the other Gothic towers. are crammed with timber-frame
side of the hill. houses, and the giant Schloß
Both Old and New Town of towers over the town square
Quedlinburg have valuable with its Renaissance town hall.
examples of timber-frame The castle’s present form is the
architecture. The buildings date result of Renaissance refurb-
from various times – the modest ishments, but it maintains
house at Wordgasse 3, from Renaissance residence in Merseburg many Romanesque features,
around 1400, is the oldest such as the 11th-century
The Renaissance portal of surviving timber-frame building from previous Romanesque 7 Merseburg donjon (keep), known as
Quedlinburg Schloß in Germany. Also noteworthy churches. Nearby is the Roter Road map D4. * 40,000. £ @ Dicker Heinrich (Fat Henry)
are the numerous churches, Turm (Red Tower), an 84-m and a 12th-century church.
4 Quedlinburg including the 10th-century (276 ft) tall belfry, built in 1418– n Burgstraße 5 (03461-21 41 70) _ Also worth seeing is the burial
Schloßfest (Jun). ∑ merseburg.de
Norbertinenkirche, the 1506. The house at Nikolaistraße chapel, the Baroque Fürstenhaus
Road map D4. * 26,000. £ @
n Markt 4 (03946-90 56 24 and 63 88 Wippertikirche with its early- Burg Giebichenstein, in Halle, with the 5, the birthplace of Georg The first sight visitors see as (ducal house) and a small
990). _ Musiksommer (Jun–Sep). Romanesque crypt, and the Arts and Crafts College Friedrich Händel, now houses a they arrive in Merseburg is the museum, situated in the
15th century, late-Gothic small museum, the Händel- Domburg – a vast complex of for mer armoury and granary.
The rise of the small town of Marktkirche St Benedicti. 6 Halle Haus. In Dom platz stands the buildings spiked with towers,
Quedlinburg was closely Road map D4. * 232,300. £ @ early-Gothic Dom, built in 1280– consisting of a cathedral and 9 Naumburg
connected with its convent, 5 Bernburg n Marktplatz 13 (0345 122 99 84). 1331 by the Domin icans and residences. The cathedral is not
established in 936 by Emperor _ Händel-Festspiele (Jun); Hallesche restored between 1525 and uniform in style; it includes Road map D4. * 30,500. £ @
Otto I and his mother, St Road map D3. * 36,000. £ @ Musiktage (Nov). ∑ halle.de 1530 in Renaissance style. some Romanesque elements n Markt 6 (03445-27 31 25).
Mathilde. On the hill above n Lindenplatz 9 (03471 346 9311). Halle has some other (the eastern section and twin _ Hussiten-Kirsch-Fest (Jun).
the town stands the vast _ Walpurgisnacht (May). Halle is an old town with a rich medieval churches, including towers in the west) erected in ∑ naumburg-tourismus.de
Romanesque structure of the ∑ bernburg.de history in commerce and trade, its the late-Gothic Moritzkirche the 11th and 12th centuries,
Stiftskirche St Servatius wealth founded on the produc- built in the latter part of the and the late-Gothic triple-nave The town’s star attraction is the
(Collegiate Church of St Once the capital of one of tion and sale of salt. Later, the 14th century. It is also worth main body, which was built in Dom (cathedral of Saints Peter
Servatius), built between 1017 Anhalt’s Duchies, Bernburg town was turned into a centre for visiting the Kunststiftung des 1510–17. All that remains of the and Paul see pp154–5). There is
and 1129. Its old crypt, the enjoys a picturesque location the chemical industry. Halle has Landes Sachsen-Anhalt, housed older, early-Romanesque a late-Gothic Rathaus (town
Huysburg, which belonged to on the banks of the Saale River. preserved most of its historic in the refurbished Citadel structure is the crypt, hall), restored in Renaissance
the previous church, features It has a Bergstadt (upper town) heritage. On the Marktplatz building known as Moritzburg underneath the presbytery. The style, and the main square is
Romanesque wall paintings and and a Talstadt (lower town), (town square) stands an inter est- and built during 1484-1503. On cathedral contains remarkable surrounded by quaint houses.
contains tombs of the prioresses and its attractions include the ing church, Unser Lieben Frauen the outskirts of town stands Gothic and Renaissance Further attractions include the
and of the Emperor Henry and Gothic parish churches and (Our Lady), whose late-Gothic Burg Giebichenstein, the features, as well as numerous Marientor gate (1455–6) with
his wife Mathilde. An exhibition the town square with its main body (1530–54) was posit- former castle residence of the sarcophagi of bishops, such as the puppet theatre, and the
of treasures is shown in the Baroque buildings. The most ioned between two pairs of Magdeburg bishops. The upper that of Thilo von Troth (1470). Gothic Stadtkirche St Wenzel
arms of the transept, including important historic building is the towers that had remained intact part of the castle remains in The chapter buildings house a (Church of St Wenceslas). The
ruins, while the lower part library with precious manuscripts, latter has two paintings by
houses an Arts & Crafts College. including the Merseburg Bible Lucas Cranach the Elder as
The Landesmuseum für (from around 1200). Adjacent to well as the 18th-century organ
Vorgeschichte (State Museum the cathedral is a three-wing that Johann Sebastian Bach
of Prehistory) has more than 11 Renaissance-style Schloß. played on. Friedrich Nietz sche,
million exhibits. Its centre piece Magnificent portals and an the philosopher, spent his
is the Nebra Sky Disc, a 3,600- attractive oriel in the castle’s childhood at No. 18 Weingarten,
year-old bronze disc re cog nized west wing are noteworthy. now a small museum.
by UNESCO as the earliest
known image of the night sky.
E Kunststiftung des Landes
Sachsen-Anhalt
Friedemann-Bach-Platz 5. Tel (0345)
21 25 90. Open 10am–6pm Tue–Sun.
& free last Sun of month.

E Landesmuseum für
Vorgeschichte
Richard-Wagner-Straße 9. Tel (0345)
The impressive Bernburg Schloß, built on a rock 52 47 30. Open Tue–Sun. & Gothic stone retable of the main altar in Naumburg Dom
For hotels and restaurants in this area see pp493–4 and pp513–14


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Eyewitness Travel LAYERS PRINTED:
Catalogue template “UK” LAYER
(Source v2.2)
Date 15th January 2013
Size 125mm x 217mm

SA X ON Y–ANHAL T  153


8 Querfurt
Road map D4. * 11,000. @
n Markt 14 (034771-237 99) _
Brunnenfest (Jun). ∑ querfurt.de
The narrow streets of Querfurt
are crammed with timber-frame
houses, and the giant Schloß
towers over the town square
with its Renaissance town hall.
The castle’s present form is the
result of Renaissance refurb-
ishments, but it maintains
Renaissance residence in Merseburg many Romanesque features,
such as the 11th-century
from previous Romanesque 7 Merseburg donjon (keep), known as
churches. Nearby is the Roter Road map D4. * 40,000. £ @ Dicker Heinrich (Fat Henry)
Turm (Red Tower), an 84-m n Burgstraße 5 (03461-21 41 70) _ and a 12th-century church.
(276 ft) tall belfry, built in 1418– Schloßfest (Jun). ∑ merseburg.de Also worth seeing is the burial
1506. The house at Nikolaistraße chapel, the Baroque Fürstenhaus
5, the birthplace of Georg The first sight visitors see as (ducal house) and a small
Friedrich Händel, now houses a they arrive in Merseburg is the museum, situated in the
small museum, the Händel- Domburg – a vast complex of for mer armoury and granary.
Haus. In Dom platz stands the buildings spiked with towers,
early-Gothic Dom, built in 1280– consisting of a cathedral and 9 Naumburg
1331 by the Domin icans and residences. The cathedral is not
restored between 1525 and uniform in style; it includes Road map D4. * 30,500. £ @
1530 in Renaissance style. some Romanesque elements n Markt 6 (03445-27 31 25).
Halle has some other (the eastern section and twin _ Hussiten-Kirsch-Fest (Jun).
medieval churches, including towers in the west) erected in ∑ naumburg-tourismus.de
the late-Gothic Moritzkirche the 11th and 12th centuries,
built in the latter part of the and the late-Gothic triple-nave The town’s star attraction is the
14th century. It is also worth main body, which was built in Dom (cathedral of Saints Peter
visiting the Kunststiftung des 1510–17. All that remains of the and Paul see pp154–5). There is
Landes Sachsen-Anhalt, housed older, early-Romanesque a late-Gothic Rathaus (town
in the refurbished Citadel structure is the crypt, hall), restored in Renaissance
building known as Moritzburg underneath the presbytery. The style, and the main square is
and built during 1484-1503. On cathedral contains remarkable surrounded by quaint houses.
the outskirts of town stands Gothic and Renaissance Further attractions include the
Burg Giebichenstein, the features, as well as numerous Marientor gate (1455–6) with
former castle residence of the sarcophagi of bishops, such as the puppet theatre, and the
Magdeburg bishops. The upper that of Thilo von Troth (1470). Gothic Stadtkirche St Wenzel
part of the castle remains in The chapter buildings house a (Church of St Wenceslas). The
ruins, while the lower part library with precious manuscripts, latter has two paintings by
houses an Arts & Crafts College. including the Merseburg Bible Lucas Cranach the Elder as
The Landesmuseum für (from around 1200). Adjacent to well as the 18th-century organ
Vorgeschichte (State Museum the cathedral is a three-wing that Johann Sebastian Bach
of Prehistory) has more than 11 Renaissance-style Schloß. played on. Friedrich Nietz sche,
million exhibits. Its centre piece Magnificent portals and an the philosopher, spent his
is the Nebra Sky Disc, a 3,600- attractive oriel in the castle’s childhood at No. 18 Weingarten,
year-old bronze disc re cog nized west wing are noteworthy. now a small museum.
by UNESCO as the earliest
known image of the night sky.
E Kunststiftung des Landes
Sachsen-Anhalt
Friedemann-Bach-Platz 5. Tel (0345)
21 25 90. Open 10am–6pm Tue–Sun.
& free last Sun of month.

E Landesmuseum für
Vorgeschichte
Richard-Wagner-Straße 9. Tel (0345)
52 47 30. Open Tue–Sun. & Gothic stone retable of the main altar in Naumburg Dom




152-153_EW_Germany.indd 153 09/10/17 12:58 pm

154  EASTERN GERM AN Y NA UMBURG  155

Naumburg Dom Pulpit VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
The richly ornamented
The impressive Cathedral of Saints Peter and Paul in pulpit basket, from Practical Information
Naumburg is one of the finest Gothic structures in 1466, and the Domplatz 16–17.
Germany. The present cathedral is the second to be adjoining stairs have Tel (03445) 23 01 10.
been renovated.
Open Mar–Oct: 9am–6pm Mon–
built on the same site; only a section of the eastern Sat, noon–6pm Sun; Nov–Feb:
crypt survived of the earlier Romanesque church. 10am–4pm Mon–Sat, noon–4pm
Construction started before 1213, with the earliest parts Sun. &
including the late-Romanesque east choir, the transept
and the main body. The early-Gothic west choir was built
in the mid-13th century, the newer Gothic east choir
around 1330. The northeast towers date from the
15th century, the southwest towers from 1894.










. Main Portal
The late-Romanesque, 13th-century portal is
decorated on the left side with eagles. The
tympanum features Christ in a mandorla
(almond-shaped area) supported by angels.
Stained-Glass Windows in the Presbytery
The stained-glass windows depict scenes
of the apostles of virtue and sin. Some
sections are original 13th-century work, but
two were completed in the 19th century.




. Founders’
Statues
The statues of
Margrave Ekkehard and
his wife, Uta, are true
masterpieces – the artist
succeeded marvellously in
capturing the beauty and
sensitivity of his subjects.
East Choir Altar
This Gothic altar features the Virgin
Mary with the Infant Jesus, surrounded
by the figures of the saints.
KEY
1 West Choir
2 Sarcophagus of
Bishop Dietrich II . Portal of
3 East Choir the West
Reading Room
4 The Main Altar, built in the mid- The Gothic twin portal
14th century, is a stone retable depicts the Crucifixion, a St Mary’s Altar
depicting the Crucifixion with the moving and highly expressive This late-Gothic triptych (around 1510)
saints which was transferred from group sculpture by the brilliant depicts the Virgin Mary with the Infant,
another altar.
“Naumburger Meister” whose framed by Saints Barbara and Catherine,
identity remains unknown. with the apostles in the wings.
For hotels and restaurants in this area see pp493–4 and pp513–14


154-155_EW_Germany.indd 154 09/10/17 12:58 pm 154-155_EW_Germany.indd 155 09/10/17 12:58 pm
Eyewitness Travel LAYERS PRINTED:
Starsight template “UK” LAYER
(Source v2.5)
Date 6th February2013
Size 125mm x 217mm

NA UMBURG  155


Pulpit VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
The richly ornamented
pulpit basket, from Practical Information
1466, and the Domplatz 16–17.
adjoining stairs have Tel (03445) 23 01 10.
been renovated. Open Mar–Oct: 9am–6pm Mon–
Sat, noon–6pm Sun; Nov–Feb:
10am–4pm Mon–Sat, noon–4pm
Sun. &
















. Main Portal
The late-Romanesque, 13th-century portal is
decorated on the left side with eagles. The
tympanum features Christ in a mandorla
(almond-shaped area) supported by angels.


















East Choir Altar
This Gothic altar features the Virgin
Mary with the Infant Jesus, surrounded
by the figures of the saints.








St Mary’s Altar
This late-Gothic triptych (around 1510)
depicts the Virgin Mary with the Infant,
framed by Saints Barbara and Catherine,
with the apostles in the wings.




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156  EASTERN GERM AN Y SA X ON Y–ANHAL T  157


E Kulturhistorisches q Stendal the Hamburg workshop of
Museum Road map D3. * 39,600. £ @ Hans Scherer the Younger,
Otto-von-Guericke-Straße 68–73. n Markt 1 (03931­65 11 92). the 1619 pulpit created by
Tel (0391) 540 35 01. Open 10am– _ Rolandfest (early Jul). Christopher Dehne and a font
5pm Tue–Sun. & ∑ stendal.de dating from 1508, the work
This museum contains works of Heinrich Mente.
of art, archaeological finds and In medieval times Stendal was The east wing of the beau tiful
historic documents of the town. one of the richest towns of the Gothic Rathaus (town hall)
Its most valuable exhibit is the Brandenburg margravate, and dates back to 1430 and is the
Magdeburger Reiter (Magde burg its most valuable historical work of Heinrich Brunsberg, its
Rider), a sculpture dating from remains date from that period. richly ornamented spire being
around 1240 of an unknown The late­Gothic St Nikolai typical of his work. The west
ruler (probably Otto I) on a horse. cathedral was built in 1423–67, wing with its arcades was
on the foundations of a added around 1480, and the
R Kloster Unser Romanesque Augustinian Back of the Gothic Rathaus in the market external stairs date from the
Lieben Frauen church. Its star attractions are square in Tangermünde 19th century.
Regierungsstraße 4–6. Kunstmuseum 15th­century stained­glass Tangermünde has retained
Tel (0391) 56 50 20. Open 10am–5pm windows in the presbytery and huge stone candelabra taken some remains of the city
Tue–Sun. & the transept. from the former reading room, walls, dating from around
This austere Romanesque The late­Gothic, 15th­ dating back to around 1300, 1300 and including a magni­
church, Magdeburg’s oldest cen tury church St Marien and the present reading room, ficent late­Gothic gate, the
building, was built for the (St Mary) has some original which is decorated with reliefs Neustädter Tor, whose tall,
Norbertine order during the Gothic elements, and the carved in the workshop of the cylindrical tower has intricate,
second half of the 11th and the oldest parts of the Rathaus Parler family, in Prague, between lacy ceramic ornaments.
early 12th centuries. Stripped of (town hall) date back to the 1396 and 1411.
all its ornaments, it now serves 14th century. Other attractions P Rathaus (Stadtge­
as a concert hall. The adjacent include the remains of the schichtliches Museum)
Romanesque abbey is a museum town walls, with a beautiful e Tangermünde Am Markt. Tel (039322) 42 153.
with medieval and modern tower, Uenglinger Torturm. Road map D3. * 10,000. £ @ Open 10am–5pm Tue–Sun.
Interior of the Gothic presbytery in the Magdeburg Dom sculptures (Barlach, Rodin).
n Markt 2 (039322­223 93).
∑ tourismus-tangermuende.de Environs
0 Magdeburg 1209 on the site of an ear lier T Halle an der Buttergasse A Romanesque Klosterkirche
Romanesque church, was Alter Markt. Weinkeller Buttergasse. Situated at the confluence of (abbey) in Jerichow, 10 km
Road map D3. * 235,000. £ @ completed in 1520, although The basement of a late- the Tanger and Elbe rivers, this (6 miles) north of Tangermünde,
n Breiter Weg 22 (0391-636 014 02). much of it was built by the Romanesque market hall from town grew rapidly during is the earliest brick structure of
_ Jazzfestival (Jun), Klassik-Open Air
(Jul). ∑ magedeburg-tourist.de mid-14th century. The result around 1200, rediscovered in medieval times. For centuries it the region. It was built in the
is a lofty, aisled basilica with 1948, is now used as a wine cellar. remained the seat of the 1150s, for Norbertine monks.
The large-scale development of transept, cloisters, a ring of Brandenburg margraves, and The west towers were completed
Magdeburg, today the capital of chapels surrounding the P Rathaus King Charles IV chose it as his during the 15th century. Its aus­
Saxony-Anhalt and a port on the presbytery and a vast twin- Alter Markt. second residence. The town tere, triple­nave vaulted interior
river Elbe, began in the 10th tower façade. The cathedral The present Baroque town hall, joined the Hanseatic League, is impressive. There are also many
century when Emperor Otto I has several magnificent, built in 1691–8 on the site of and grew in status thanks to its remains of the former abbey.
established his main residence original sculptures. Other an earlier, late-Romanesque trade links.
here. In medieval times the town notable features include the town hall, was restored after The Rathaus (town hall)
became a political and cultural tomb of Emperor Otto I, as World War II. Gothic traceries of the cloisters in has timber­frame
centre. After the abolition of the well as the 12th-century the Dom, Havelberg architecture and houses
archbishopric and the destruc- bronze tomb plaques of R Pfarrkirche the municipal museum.
tion wrought by the Thirty Years’ archbishops Friedrich von St Johannis w Havelberg The only remains of the
War, it lost its political importance. Wettin and Wichmann. Am Johannisberg 1. Road map D3. * 7,000. @ old castle are its main
About 80 per cent was destroyed The memorial for the Viewing tower: n Uferstraße 1. (039387­79 091). tower and the Kanzlei
during World War II, but it is still dead of World War I is the Tel (0391) 59 34 50. ∑ havelberg.de (chancellery). In 1377,
worth a visit since many historic work of Ernst Barlach, Open Mar–Oct: King Charles IV brought
buildings have been recon struc- dating from 1929. Visitors 10am– 6pm Tue–Sun; Havelberg played an important the Augustinian monks
ted in the Old Town. to the cathedral may Nov–Feb: 10–5pm. & role in the Christianization of to town and had the St
notice several Near the market this region, with a mission Stephanskirche (church
P Dom St Mauritius und elements that were square is the episcopate established here as of St Stephen) built for
St Katharina preserved from Gothic church of early as the mid­10th century. them. Con struction
Domplatz. Tel (0391) 541 04 36. ancient structures St John, destroyed The present cathedral – Dom continued until the end
Open May–Sep: 10am–6pm; Apr & Oct: and have been during World War II St Marien – was built in 1150– of the 15th century. This
10am–5pm; Nov–Mar: 10am–4pm. incorporated into and later rebuilt. In 70, and although redesigned magnificent, late­Gothic
The vast Magdeburg cathedral the walls or used 1524 Martin Luther in the early 14th century, it hall church with transept
is one of the most important as ornaments preached here. nevertheless maintained its and cloister contains
Gothic churches in Germany. Its inside the Kloster Unser Lieben Today it is used as Romanesque character. Its most interesting features: a Interior of the former Norbertinenkirche, in
construction, which started in building. Frauen in Magdeburg a concert hall. interesting features include 1624 organ made in Jerichow, north of Tangermünde
For hotels and restaurants in this area see pp493–4 and pp513–14


156-157_EW_Germany.indd 156 09/10/17 12:58 pm 156-157_EW_Germany.indd 157 09/10/17 12:58 pm
Eyewitness Travel LAYERS PRINTED:
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(Source v2.2)
Date 15th January 2013
Size 125mm x 217mm

SA X ON Y–ANHAL T  157


q Stendal the Hamburg workshop of
Hans Scherer the Younger,
Road map D3. * 39,600. £ @
n Markt 1 (03931­65 11 92). the 1619 pulpit created by
_ Rolandfest (early Jul). Christopher Dehne and a font
∑ stendal.de dating from 1508, the work
of Heinrich Mente.
In medieval times Stendal was The east wing of the beau tiful
one of the richest towns of the Gothic Rathaus (town hall)
Brandenburg margravate, and dates back to 1430 and is the
its most valuable historical work of Heinrich Brunsberg, its
remains date from that period. richly ornamented spire being
The late­Gothic St Nikolai typical of his work. The west
cathedral was built in 1423–67, wing with its arcades was
on the foundations of a added around 1480, and the
Romanesque Augustinian Back of the Gothic Rathaus in the market external stairs date from the
church. Its star attractions are square in Tangermünde 19th century.
15th­century stained­glass Tangermünde has retained
windows in the presbytery and huge stone candelabra taken some remains of the city
the transept. from the former reading room, walls, dating from around
The late­Gothic, 15th­ dating back to around 1300, 1300 and including a magni­
cen tury church St Marien and the present reading room, ficent late­Gothic gate, the
(St Mary) has some original which is decorated with reliefs Neustädter Tor, whose tall,
Gothic elements, and the carved in the workshop of the cylindrical tower has intricate,
oldest parts of the Rathaus Parler family, in Prague, between lacy ceramic ornaments.
(town hall) date back to the 1396 and 1411.
14th century. Other attractions P Rathaus (Stadtge­
include the remains of the schichtliches Museum)
town walls, with a beautiful e Tangermünde Am Markt. Tel (039322) 42 153.
tower, Uenglinger Torturm. Open 10am–5pm Tue–Sun.
Road map D3. * 10,000. £ @
n Markt 2 (039322­223 93).
∑ tourismus-tangermuende.de Environs
A Romanesque Klosterkirche
Situated at the confluence of (abbey) in Jerichow, 10 km
the Tanger and Elbe rivers, this (6 miles) north of Tangermünde,
town grew rapidly during is the earliest brick structure of
medieval times. For centuries it the region. It was built in the
remained the seat of the 1150s, for Norbertine monks.
Brandenburg margraves, and The west towers were completed
King Charles IV chose it as his during the 15th century. Its aus­
second residence. The town tere, triple­nave vaulted interior
joined the Hanseatic League, is impressive. There are also many
and grew in status thanks to its remains of the former abbey.
trade links.
The Rathaus (town hall)
Gothic traceries of the cloisters in has timber­frame
the Dom, Havelberg architecture and houses
the municipal museum.
w Havelberg The only remains of the
old castle are its main
Road map D3. * 7,000. @
n Uferstraße 1. (039387­79 091). tower and the Kanzlei
∑ havelberg.de (chancellery). In 1377,
King Charles IV brought
Havelberg played an important the Augustinian monks
role in the Christianization of to town and had the St
this region, with a mission Stephanskirche (church
episcopate established here as of St Stephen) built for
early as the mid­10th century. them. Con struction
The present cathedral – Dom continued until the end
St Marien – was built in 1150– of the 15th century. This
70, and although redesigned magnificent, late­Gothic
in the early 14th century, it hall church with transept
nevertheless maintained its and cloister contains
Romanesque character. Its most interesting features: a Interior of the former Norbertinenkirche, in
interesting features include 1624 organ made in Jerichow, north of Tangermünde




156-157_EW_Germany.indd 157 09/10/17 12:58 pm

158  EASTERN GERM AN Y SA X ON Y–ANHAL T  159


r Dessau E Bauhausmuseum Its main development took P Cranachhaus
Gropiusallee 38. Tel (0340) 65 080. place during the 16th century, Markt 4. Tel (03491) 420 19 11.
Road map E3. * 84,400. £ @ Open 10am–6pm daily. & Open 10am–5pm Mon–Sat, 1–5pm
n Zerbster Straße 2c (0340-204 14 ∑ bauhaus-dessau.de under the Great Elector, Sun. Closed Nov–Apr: Mon.
42). _ Kurt-Weill-Fest (late Feb–Mar), Frederick the Wise. Wittenberg
Elbmusikfest (Jun). ∑ dessau.de + Schloß Georgium became the capital of the This beautiful, early
Puschkinallee 100. Tel (0340) 61 38 74. Reformation thanks to the work 16th-century Renaissance
Dessau, once a magnificent city Open 10am–5pm Tue–Sun. & of Martin Luther and Philipp house once belonged to
and the capital of the duchy of Melanchthon, and as such it Lucas Cranach the Elder and
Anhalt-Dessau, is less attractive Environs attracts many visitors. Another was the birthplace of his son,
today, yet it has some excellent Haldeburg, which is situated famous resident of that period Lucas Cranach the Younger. His
historic sights. In the town on the outskirts of Dessau, has a was the painter Lucas Cranach studio was at Schloßstraße 1.
centre are some interesting Neo-Gothic hunting lodge built the Elder.
Baroque churches and the in 1782–3, and Mosigkau boasts P Rathaus
Johannbau, the remains of a Schloß Mosigkau, Princess + Schloß Wittenberg Markt 26. Open 10am–5pm Tue–Sun.
Renaissance ducal residence. Anna Wilhelmina’s Baroque Schloßplatz. Museum für Naturkunde The Renaissance town hall
Dessau is also known for the residence, designed by Christian und Völkerkunde (Museum of was built in 1523–35, and later The market square with Baroque fountain, in Lutherstadt Wittenberg
Bauhaus complex. Built in 1925 Friedrich Damm. It contains Natural History and Ethnography): twice extended in the 16th
to a design by Walter Gropius, it some excellent examples of Tel (03491) 43 34 920. Open 9am– century. In its forecourt are two married to Katharina von Bora Schwarzerd, generally known
is the home of the famous art 17th-century painting. 5pm Tue-Sun. & 19th-century monuments: to in this church where he also as Melanchthon.
school, which moved here from In Oranienbaum, 12 km Built for Frederick the Wise in Martin Luther by Gottfried preached, and six of their
Weimar. The Bauhausmuseum (7 miles) east of Dessau, stands 1489–1525, the castle was greatly Schadow and to Philipp Melan- children were baptised. Inside P Lutherhaus
is housed in one of its wings. a late-17th-century, early- altered during reconstruction chthon by Friedrich Drake. is a magnificent Reformation Collegienstraße 54. Tel (03491)
Nearby, in Friedrich-Ebert- Baroque palace that was built following fire and wartime altar (constructed in 1547), the 42 030. Open same hours as
Allee, five of the so-called for Princess Henrietta Katharine damage. A museum is housed R Marienkirche work of father and son Cranach, Melanchthonhaus. &
Meisterhäuser – master houses of Orange by the Dutch in the west wing. Kirchplatz. Tel (03491) 40 44 15. as well as interesting tombs The museum, which is in the
for the Art College professors – architect Cornelius Ryckwaert. Open Easter–Oct: 10am–6pm and epitaphs. former residence of Martin
have survived World War II. The Mon–Sat, 11:30am–6pm Sun; Nov– Luther and his family, also
houses of Lyonel Feininger and + Schloss Mosigkau Easter: 10am–5pm Mon–Sat, P Melanchthonhaus chronicles the work of Lucas
Paul Klee are open to the public. Knobelsdorffallee 2. Tel (0340) 50 255 11:30am–5pm Sun. Collegienstraße 60. Tel (03491) 40 32 Cranach the Elder. It has a
Wassily Kandinsky was also a 721. Open Apr, Oct: 10am–5pm Sat & The Gothic church of St Mary 79. Open Apr–Oct: 10am–6pm daily; large number of documents
former resident. The Kornhaus, Sun; May–Sep: 10am–6pm Tue–Sun. with its twin-tower façade was Nov–Mar: 10am–5pm Tue–Sun. & relating to the Reformation
on Elballee, restored in 1996, Closed Dec–Mar. 8 & built between the 13th and This museum is devoted to and Luther’s translation
contains a restaurant, café 15th centuries. Luther was Luther’s closest ally, Philipp of the Bible.
and dance hall. t Lutherstadt
Many splendid residences
set in landscaped gardens were Wittenberg Lutherstadt Wittenberg
built in 18th- and 19th-century Road map E3. * 55,000. £ @ Town Centre 0 metres 500
Dessau. In the town centre n Schloßplatz 2 (03491-49 86 10). 1 Schloß Wittenberg 0 yards 500
stands a Neo-Classical palace, _ Wittenberger Stadtfest & Luthers 2 Schloßkirche
Schloß Georgium, built in 1780 Hochzeit (Jun). ∑ wittenberg.de 3 Cranachhaus
Neues
to a design by Friedrich Wilhelm 4 Rathaus Rathaus
von Erdmannsdorff. Today it This small town, named after its 5 Marienkirche
houses a collection of old most famous resident, Martin 6 Melanchthonhaus BURGERMEISTERSTR.
masters, including works by Luther, enjoys a scenic position 7 Lutherhaus
Rubens, Hals and Cranach. on the banks of the Elbe river. The tomb of Frederick the Wise,
in Schloßkirche
R Schloßkirche BERLINER ST R A S S E Stadtpark PFAFFENGASSE Stadtpark
Schloßplatz. Tel (03491) 40 25 85. JURISTENST RAS SE ARSENAL BURGERMEISTERSTR. MAU ER ST RASSE
PLATZ
Open May–Oct: 10am–6pm Mon–Sat,
11:30–6pm Sun; Nov–Apr:10am–4pm Rathaus JÜDENSTRASSE LUTHERST RASS E
Mon–Sat, 11:30am–4pm Sun. COSW IGER S TR AS SE Marienkirche NEU STR ASS E
Schlosskirche
Built after 1497, this church was S CHLOSSS TR ASSE
Schloss
made famous by Martin Luther, Wittenberg Markt ALTSTADT FLEISCHERSTRASSE
who allegedly posted his theses
on its door in 1517. The original Cranachhaus C OLLEG IENSTR ASSE FEUER- W.-WEBER- STRASSE
MIT TE LSTRA S SE
door no longer exists, but WALLS TRASSE GASSE
the church con tains many Hauptbahnhof
interesting tombs, including HA LLE SCHE ST R A S S E Sportplatz Melanchthonhaus 500m (550 yards)
that of Frederick the Wise, AM STAD TGRA B EN Lutherhaus
created in 1527 in the workshop
of Hans Vischer, as well as
modest tombs of Martin W E S E R STRASSE
Schloß Georgium in Dessau Luther and Melanchthon.
For hotels and restaurants in this area see pp493–4 and pp513–14 For keys to symbols see back flap
158-159_EW_Germany.indd 158 09/10/17 12:58 pm 158-159_EW_Germany.indd 159 09/10/17 12:58 pm
Eyewitness Travel LAYERS PRINTED:
Catalogue template “UK” LAYER
(Source v2.2)
Date 15th January 2013
Size 125mm x 217mm

SA X ON Y–ANHAL T  159


P Cranachhaus
Markt 4. Tel (03491) 420 19 11.
Open 10am–5pm Mon–Sat, 1–5pm
Sun. Closed Nov–Apr: Mon.
This beautiful, early
16th-century Renaissance
house once belonged to
Lucas Cranach the Elder and
was the birthplace of his son,
Lucas Cranach the Younger. His
studio was at Schloßstraße 1.

P Rathaus
Markt 26. Open 10am–5pm Tue–Sun.
The Renaissance town hall
was built in 1523–35, and later The market square with Baroque fountain, in Lutherstadt Wittenberg
twice extended in the 16th
century. In its forecourt are two married to Katharina von Bora Schwarzerd, generally known
19th-century monuments: to in this church where he also as Melanchthon.
Martin Luther by Gottfried preached, and six of their
Schadow and to Philipp Melan- children were baptised. Inside P Lutherhaus
chthon by Friedrich Drake. is a magnificent Reformation Collegienstraße 54. Tel (03491)
altar (constructed in 1547), the 42 030. Open same hours as
R Marienkirche work of father and son Cranach, Melanchthonhaus. &
Kirchplatz. Tel (03491) 40 44 15. as well as interesting tombs The museum, which is in the
Open Easter–Oct: 10am–6pm and epitaphs. former residence of Martin
Mon–Sat, 11:30am–6pm Sun; Nov– Luther and his family, also
Easter: 10am–5pm Mon–Sat, P Melanchthonhaus chronicles the work of Lucas
11:30am–5pm Sun. Collegienstraße 60. Tel (03491) 40 32 Cranach the Elder. It has a
The Gothic church of St Mary 79. Open Apr–Oct: 10am–6pm daily; large number of documents
with its twin-tower façade was Nov–Mar: 10am–5pm Tue–Sun. & relating to the Reformation
built between the 13th and This museum is devoted to and Luther’s translation
15th centuries. Luther was Luther’s closest ally, Philipp of the Bible.

Lutherstadt Wittenberg
Town Centre 0 metres 500
1 Schloß Wittenberg 0 yards 500
2 Schloßkirche
3 Cranachhaus
Neues
4 Rathaus Rathaus
5 Marienkirche
6 Melanchthonhaus BURGERMEISTERSTR.
7 Lutherhaus
BERLINER ST R A S S E Stadtpark PFAFFENGASSE JURISTENST RAS SE ARSENAL BURGERMEISTERSTR. MAU ER ST RASSE
Stadtpark
PLATZ
Rathaus JÜDENSTRASSE LUTHERST RASS E
COSW IGER S TR AS SE Marienkirche NEU STR ASS E
Schlosskirche
Schloss S CHLOSSS TR ASSE Markt FLEISCHERSTRASSE
Wittenberg ALTSTADT
Cranachhaus C OLLEG IENSTR ASSE GASSE W.-WEBER- STRASSE
MIT TE LSTRA S SE
FEUER-
WALLS TRASSE
Hauptbahnhof
AM STAD TGRA B EN Lutherhaus
Sportplatz Melanchthonhaus 500m (550 yards)
HA LLE SCHE ST R A S S E
W E S E R STRASSE

For keys to symbols see back flap


158-159_EW_Germany.indd 159 09/10/17 12:58 pm

160  EASTERN GERM AN Y SA X ON Y–ANHAL T  161

y Wörlitz Park VISITORS’ CHECKLIST

Wörlitz is a charming, English-style landscaped garden, the Practical Information
first of its kind in continental Europe. It was established in n Orianienbaum Förstergasse
stages, commencing in 1764, for Prince Leopold III, Frederick 26 (034905 310 09). ∑ woerlitz-
information.de Schloß: Open
Franz of Anhalt-Dessau. Many famous gardeners worked in Apr & Oct: 10am–6pm daily;
Wörlitz, including Johann Christian Neumark and Johann Nov–Mar: 10am–4pm Mon–Fri.
Leopold Ludwig Schoch, as well as the architect Friedrich 8 &
Wilhelm von Erdmannsdorff. The country house (1769–1773), Transport
the first building in the Classical style in Germany, houses a @ £
valuable collection of sculpture, furniture and paintings. Floratempel
Modelled on an ancient
Another interesting collection, including Swiss glass pictures, temple with columns, this
can be admired in the Gotisches Haus. Neo-Classical temple served Lake Concert
Classical concerts are held on Wörlitz Lake in the evening
as a music pavilion. during the summer season. The audience is all afloat in boats.


Amalien-Insel
In keeping with the fashion of the
SCHOCHSSCHOCHS KleinesKleines day, this artificial island, on Großes
GARTENGARTEN WallochWalloch Walloch lake, has a grotto, which
provides a cool resting place.
FloratempelFloratempel
PalmenhausPalmenhaus
PantheonPantheon
SCHOCHSSCHOCHS
. Gotisches Haus GARTENGARTEN
This house, built in stages, is one
of the earliest examples of German Amalien-Amalien-
Gro ßesGro ßes
Neo-Gothic style. On display Gotisches HausGotisches Haus WEIDEN-WEIDEN- HerderinselHerderinsel WallochWalloch InselInsel
inside is a unique collection of HEGERHEGER
Swiss glass pictures. NymphäumNymphäum

Wörlitzer See
Rosen-Rosen- W ö r l i t z e r SeeW ö r l i t z e r See The largest of
InselInsel
NEUENEUE the three lakes,
ANLAGENANLAGEN which are all
joined by
SynagogeSynagoge canals, this is
Rousseau-Rousseau- SchlossSchloss
InselInsel prettiest when
SCHLOSS-SCHLOSS- the water lilies
GARTENGARTEN GrauesGraues are in bloom.
KEY NEUMARKS-NEUMARKS- KircheKirche HausHaus
GARTENGARTEN MarstallMarstall
1 Rousseau-Insel, lined with GalerieGalerie
poplars, was modelled on PropsteiPropstei
Ermenonville, the island where the
French philosopher was first buried.
Friedericken-Friedericken- SteinStein
2 Rosen-Insel, or rose island, brücke brücke
was created as one of several
artificial islands in the part of the
garden designed by Johann
Christian Neumark.
3 The Pantheon, built in
1795–6, houses a collection . Synagogue
of antique sculptures. Gondolas on Built in 1790 and modelled on the
4 Stein (Rock Island) is a working the Lake Vesta Temple in Rome, the
artificial volcano modelled on Romantic gondolas wait synagogue was gutted by the 0 metres 500
Mount Vesuvius in Italy. by the jetties to take National Socialists in 1938 and now
tourists across the lake. shows a Jewish history exhibit. 0 yards 500
For hotels and restaurants in this area see pp493–4 and pp513–14
160-161_EW_Germany.indd 160 09/10/17 12:49 pm 160-161_EW_Germany.indd 161 09/10/17 12:49 pm

SA X ON Y–ANHAL T  161


VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
Practical Information
n Orianienbaum Förstergasse
26 (034905 310 09). ∑ woerlitz-
information.de Schloß: Open
Apr & Oct: 10am–6pm daily;
Nov–Mar: 10am–4pm Mon–Fri.
8 &
Transport
@ £

Lake Concert
Classical concerts are held on Wörlitz Lake in the evening
during the summer season. The audience is all afloat in boats.



Amalien-Insel
In keeping with the fashion of the
SCHOCHS Kleines day, this artificial island, on Großes
GARTEN Walloch Walloch lake, has a grotto, which
provides a cool resting place.
Floratempel
Palmenhaus
Pantheon
SCHOCHS
GARTEN
Amalien-
Gotisches Haus WEIDEN- Herderinsel Großes Insel
HEGER Walloch
Nymphäum


Wörlitzer See
Rosen- W ö r l i t z e r See The largest of
Insel
NEUE the three lakes,
ANLAGEN which are all
joined by
Synagoge canals, this is
Rousseau- Schloss
Insel prettiest when
SCHLOSS- the water lilies
GARTEN Graues are in bloom.
NEUMARKS- Kirche Haus
GARTEN Marstall
Galerie
Propstei
Friedericken- Stein
brücke



. Synagogue
Built in 1790 and modelled on the
Vesta Temple in Rome, the
synagogue was gutted by the 0 metres 500
National Socialists in 1938 and now
shows a Jewish history exhibit. 0 yards 500




160-161_EW_Germany.indd 161 09/10/17 12:49 pm

EASTERN GERM AN Y  163

SAXONY


Saxony has a long history and is rich in historic sites. Its
capital city, Dresden, ranks among the most beautiful and
interesting towns in Germany, despite the devastation it
suffered during World War II. The region also boasts the
enchanting Erzgebirge Mountains and the glorious scenery
of “Saxon Switzerland”, where the mighty Elbe river runs
amid fantastic rock formations.

In the 10th century, Emperor Otto I centre of the arts and culture until the
created an eastern border province Seven Years’ War (1756–63) put an end
(margravate) in the area presently known to the region’s prosperity. In 1806, Saxony
as Saxony. It quickly grew in size as it declared itself on the side of Napoleon, and
expanded into neigh bouring territories the Great Elector acquired the title of King.
inhabited by the Polabian Slavs. It was But Saxony paid a heavy price for suppor­
divided and part became the Meissen ting Napoleon – following the Congress
margravate, ruled by the powerful house of Vienna (1815), the kingdom lost the
of Wettin from 1089. This dynasty’s northern half of its territory to Prussia,
political power increased when it and in 1871 it was incorporated into
acquired the Saxon Electorate in 1423; the German Empire.
subsequently the entire region under At the end of World War II Saxony was
their rule became known as “Saxony”. in the Soviet­occupied zone and became
From 1697 until 1763 Saxony was united part of the GDR in 1949. Since 1990 it has
with Poland, and the Saxon Great Electors, been a state in the Federal Republic of
Frederick Augustus the Strong and his Germany. Saxony is densely populated
son Frederick Augustus II, were also kings and in some parts heavily industrialized,
of Poland. During this period Saxony but it also has many interesting and
flourished, and Dresden became a major unspoiled towns.


























The scenic Bastei rocks in Saxon Switzerland
Night-time view of Dresden’s Brühlsche Terrace



162-163_EW_Germany.indd 162 09/10/17 12:58 pm 162-163_EW_Germany.indd 163 09/10/17 12:58 pm
Eyewitness Travel LAYERS PRINTED:
Regional opener template “UK” LAYER
(SourceReport v1.2)
Date 5th December 2012
Size 125mm x 217mm

EASTERN GERM AN Y  163

SAXONY


Saxony has a long history and is rich in historic sites. Its
capital city, Dresden, ranks among the most beautiful and
interesting towns in Germany, despite the devastation it
suffered during World War II. The region also boasts the
enchanting Erzgebirge Mountains and the glorious scenery
of “Saxon Switzerland”, where the mighty Elbe river runs
amid fantastic rock formations.

In the 10th century, Emperor Otto I centre of the arts and culture until the
created an eastern border province Seven Years’ War (1756–63) put an end
(margravate) in the area presently known to the region’s prosperity. In 1806, Saxony
as Saxony. It quickly grew in size as it declared itself on the side of Napoleon, and
expanded into neigh bouring territories the Great Elector acquired the title of King.
inhabited by the Polabian Slavs. It was But Saxony paid a heavy price for suppor­
divided and part became the Meissen ting Napoleon – following the Congress
margravate, ruled by the powerful house of Vienna (1815), the kingdom lost the
of Wettin from 1089. This dynasty’s northern half of its territory to Prussia,
political power increased when it and in 1871 it was incorporated into
acquired the Saxon Electorate in 1423; the German Empire.
subsequently the entire region under At the end of World War II Saxony was
their rule became known as “Saxony”. in the Soviet­occupied zone and became
From 1697 until 1763 Saxony was united part of the GDR in 1949. Since 1990 it has
with Poland, and the Saxon Great Electors, been a state in the Federal Republic of
Frederick Augustus the Strong and his Germany. Saxony is densely populated
son Frederick Augustus II, were also kings and in some parts heavily industrialized,
of Poland. During this period Saxony but it also has many interesting and
flourished, and Dresden became a major unspoiled towns.


























The scenic Bastei rocks in Saxon Switzerland
Night-time view of Dresden’s Brühlsche Terrace



162-163_EW_Germany.indd 163 09/10/17 12:58 pm

164  EASTERN GERM AN Y SA X ON Y  165

Exploring Saxony Getting Around
Leipzig and Dresden both have airports, as well as
When travelling in Saxony, a visit to Dresden is a must. excellent train and road connections with the rest
Visitors should set aside several days to explore its of Germany. The A6 motorway runs west from
historic sights and magnificent museums. Dresden is Görlitz, through Dresden and Chemnitz; the A13
also a convenient base for excursions to the attractive links Dresden with Berlin, and the A14 with Leipzig.
Other roads, national and regional, are clearly sign­
landscapes of the Sächsische Schweiz (“Saxon posted, and all the towns described in this guide
Switzerland”) and further afield – to Bautzen, Görlitz and can also be reached by local buses.
Zittau, or to the Erzgebirge Mountains, towards Freiberg Lutherstadt Lutherstadt
WittenbergWittenberg
and Chemnitz. Another town worth visiting, at least Bad DübenBad Düben
for a day, is Leipzig with its historic sights, BADBAD
cultural events, trade fairs and exhibitions. DelitzschDelitzsch The giant castle and cathedral complex in Meissen MUSKAUMUSKAU
TORGAUTORGAU
HalleHalle Spree
Spree
RackwitzRackwitz
Eilenburg HoyerswerdaHoyerswerda
Eilenburg
BernsdorfBernsdorf
BerlinBerlin
LEIPZIG WurzenWurzen O b e r l a u s i t z
LEIPZIG
O b e r l a u s i t z
RiesaRiesa GrossenhainGrossenhain NieskyNiesky
MarkkleebergMarkkleeberg OschatzOschatz Schwarze Elster Schwarze Elster
KAMENZ BAUTZENBAUTZEN AachenAachen
KAMENZ
ZwenkauZwenkau
MORITZBURG
LeisnigLeisnig MORITZBURG
ColditzColditz Freiberger Mulde MEISSENMEISSEN CoswigCoswig BischofswerdaBischofswerda LöbauLöbau GÖRLITZGÖRLITZ
Zwickauer Mulde
Zwickauer Mulde
M U L D E VA L L E Y M U L D E VA L L E Y S ÄCHSIS CHE
Freiberger Mulde
Pleisse
Pleisse
RochlitzRochlitz Burg KriebsteinBurg Kriebstein RadebeulRadebeul StolpenStolpen OstrizOstriz
WechselburgWechselburg SACHSENSACHSEN DRESDENDRESDEN L a u s i t z e r B e r g l a n d
L a u s i t z e r B e r g l a n d
S ÄCHSIS CHE
Elbe
PIRNAPIRNA
RochsburgRochsburg MittweidaMittweida FreitalFreital WeesensteinWeesenstein Elbe S CHW E IZ IZ ZITTAUZITTAU
S CHW E
HainichenHainichen
Bad SchandauBad Schandau
MeeraneMeerane AUGUSTUSBURGAUGUSTUSBURG FREIBERGFREIBERG
ErfurtErfurt
GlauchauGlauchau CHEMNITZCHEMNITZ
PockauPockau
NeukirchenNeukirchen MarienbergMarienberg
ZWICKAUZWICKAU
Fl ha
The Old Town of Bautzen, situated high above Fl ha PraguePrague
SÄCHSISCHE SILBERSTRASSE
the banks of the Spree River SÄCHSISCHE SILBERSTRASSE
ReichenbachReichenbach
Sights at a Glance SchneebergSchneeberg
1 Leipzig pp166–7 Annaberg-Annaberg-
2 Torgau PlauenPlauen AuerbachAuerbach AuersbergAuersberg BuchholzBuchholz
3 Mulde Valley 1019m1019m OberwiesenthalOberwiesenthal
4 Zwickau FichtelbergFichtelberg
1214m1214m
Oelsnitz
5 Chemnitz Oelsnitz
6 Augustusburg V o g t l a n d Saddle horses grazing on paddocks near Kamenz
8 Freiberg NurembergNuremberg
V o g t l a n d
9 Meissen
0 Moritzburg Key
q Dresden pp172–81
w Pirna Motorway
r Kamenz Major road
t Bautzen Minor road
y Bad Muskau Scenic route
u Görlitz Main railway 0 kilometres 20
i Zittau 0 miles 20
Minor railway
Tours Country border
7 Sächsische Silberstraße International border Young musicians in the Barockgarten,
e Sächsische Schweiz Summit in Großsedlitz, near Dresden
For additional map symbols see back flap For hotels and restaurants in this area see p494 and pp514–16
164-165_EW_Germany.indd 164 09/10/17 12:58 pm 164-165_EW_Germany.indd 165 09/10/17 12:58 pm
Eyewitness Travel LAYERS PRINTED:
Explorer template “UK” LAYER
(Source v1.4)
Date 5th December 2012
Size 125mm x 217mm

SA X ON Y  165


Getting Around
Leipzig and Dresden both have airports, as well as
excellent train and road connections with the rest
of Germany. The A6 motorway runs west from
Görlitz, through Dresden and Chemnitz; the A13
links Dresden with Berlin, and the A14 with Leipzig.
Other roads, national and regional, are clearly sign­
posted, and all the towns described in this guide
can also be reached by local buses.
Lutherstadt
Wittenberg
Bad Düben
BAD
Delitzsch The giant castle and cathedral complex in Meissen MUSKAU
TORGAU
Halle Spree
Rackwitz
Eilenburg Hoyerswerda
Bernsdorf
Berlin
LEIPZIG Wurzen O b e r l a u s i t z
Riesa Grossenhain Niesky
Markkleeberg Oschatz Schwarze Elster
KAMENZ BAUTZEN Aachen
Zwenkau
Leisnig MORITZBURG
Colditz Freiberger Mulde MEISSEN Coswig Bischofswerda Löbau GÖRLITZ
Zwickauer Mulde
M U L D E VA L L E Y S ÄCHSIS CHE
Pleisse
Rochlitz Burg Kriebstein Radebeul Stolpen Ostriz
Wechselburg SACHSEN DRESDEN L a u s i t z e r B e r g l a n d
PIRNA
Rochsburg Mittweida Freital Weesenstein Elbe S CHW E IZ ZITTAU
Hainichen
Bad Schandau
Meerane AUGUSTUSBURG FREIBERG
Erfurt
Glauchau CHEMNITZ
Pockau
Neukirchen Marienberg
ZWICKAU Fl ha Prague
SÄCHSISCHE SILBERSTRASSE
Reichenbach
Schneeberg
Annaberg-
Plauen Buchholz
Auerbach Auersberg
1019m
Oberwiesenthal
Fichtelberg
1214m
Oelsnitz
Saddle horses grazing on paddocks near Kamenz
Nuremberg
V o g t l a n d



0 kilometres 20
0 miles 20

Young musicians in the Barockgarten,
in Großsedlitz, near Dresden
For hotels and restaurants in this area see p494 and pp514–16


164-165_EW_Germany.indd 165 09/10/17 12:58 pm

166  EASTERN GERM AN Y SA X ON Y  167

1 Leipzig Worth noting are the beautiful sculptures by Balthasar VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
Renaissance galleries built by Permoser, Antonio Canova and
Granted town status in 1165, Leipzig is not only one of Hieronymus Lotter, in 1570. The Auguste Rodin. Practical Information
Germany’s leading commercial towns, but also a centre of famous Thomanerchor choir still Road map E4. Tel (0341) 710 42
culture and learning, with a university founded in 1409. An sings at services on Friday R Russische Kirche 60. n Katharinenstraße 8 &
Augustplatz 9 (0341-710 42 60).
Philipp-Rosenthal-Straße 51a.
important centre for the German publishing and book trade, evenings and Saturday Tel (0341) 878 14 53. Open 10am– _ Leipziger Buchmesse (Mar);
afternoons, and organ concerts
it is the home of the Deutsche Bücherei, the German national are held in the churches of St 5pm daily (to 4pm in winter). Leipziger Orgelsommer (Jul–
library established in 1912. During the various trade fairs, Thomas and St Nicholas during The Russian Orthodox Church of Aug); Inter nationaler Johann-
such as the Book Fair in spring, it receives a great number of the summer months. Bach is St Alexius was built in 1912–13 Sebastian-Bach Wettbewerb (Jul);
Leipziger Jazztage (Oct).
visitors, and it has much to offer in terms of entertainment, also commemorated with a to commemorate the 22,000 ∑ leipzig.travel.de
including concerts by the renowned Gewandhaus symphony monument in front of the church Russian soldiers who died in Transport
1813, in the Battle of the
(1908). Nearby, the Bosehaus, a
orchestra and the Thomanerchor boys’ choir, which boasts Baroque 17th-century building, Nations. The architect, Vladimir k Flughafen Leipzig–Halle.
Johann Sebastian Bach as a past choirmaster. is the home of the Bachmuseum, The Russische Kirche, a pastiche of the Pokrowski, based his design £ Willy-Brandt-Platz.
devoted to the composer. churches in Novgorod on the churches of Novgorod
designed by Johann Georg in Russia.
Starcke. Built in 1678–87 and E Grassimuseum This museum is devoted to the The grand Renaissance town
reconstructed almost from the Johannisplatz 5–11. Museum für history of German literature. It P Völkerschlachtdenkmal hall, built in 1556 to a design
ground after World War II, it is Völkerkunde: Tel (0341) 97 31 900. contains rare manuscripts and Straße des 18 Oktober 100. Tel (0341) by Hieronymus Lotter, is now
now a concert hall. In front of Museum für Angewandte Kunst: old prints. 241 68 70. Open Apr–Oct: 10am–6pm the home of the municipal
the building stands a monument Tel (0341) 22 29 100. Museum für daily, Nov–Mar: 10am–4pm daily. & museum. One room is devoted
(1903) to Goethe showing him Musikinstrumente: Tel (0341) 97 30 E Museum der This giant, Teutonic-style to Felix Mendelssohn-Bartholdy,
as a student. 750. Open Library and museum shop Bildenden Künste monument is the work of who conducted the symphony
In the market square, near the with workshops and lectures. Katharinenstraße 10 (Sachsenplatz). architect Bruno Schmitz. orchestra from 1835 until his
beautiful Renaissance town hall, Exhibitions: 10am–6pm Tue–Sun. Tel (0341) 216 999 20. Open 10am– Completed for the centenary of death in 1847.
∑ grassimuseum.de
is the Alte Waage, the old 6pm Tue & Thu–Sun, noon–8pm Wed. the 1813 Battle of the Nations,
municipal weigh-house, a The Grassimuseum is one of This museum has an excellent which pitched the combined E Bacharchive und
Renaissance work by Hieronymus Germany’s greatest museum collection of German masters, Prussian, Austrian and Russian Bachmuseum
Lotter. It was built in 1555 and complexes, housing three including Lucas Cranach the armies against Napoleon, it now Thomaskirchhof 15–16.
reconstruc ted in 1964 following fascinating collections: the Elder, Martin Schongauer and houses a small museum. Tel (0341) 913 72 202.
damage in World War II. Museum für Völkerkunde Caspar David Friedrich, as well Open 10am–6pm daily.
The area to the south of the (ethnography) with exhibits from as other magnificent European P Altes Rathaus This museum houses archives
Impressively lofty interior of the town square is taken up by a around the world; the Museum paintings. There are canvases Markt 1. Tel (0341) 261 77 60. Museum and documents relating to the
Neo-Classical Nikolaikirche block of trade fair buildings. für Musikinstrumente (musical by Jan van Eyck, Rubens, für Geschichte der Stadt Leipzig: life and works of the composer
The most interesting are the instruments) with a magnificent Frans Hals, Tintoretto and Open 10am–6pm Tue–Sun. J S Bach.
Exploring Leipzig beautifully restored Specks Hof collection, including the world’s
Most of the interesting sights (Reichestraße/Nikolaistraße), oldest surviving clavichord, and
Flugfhafen
can be found in the old town the oldest arcade in Leipzig the Museum für Angewandte Leipzig City Centre 15 km (9 miles) Hauptbahnhof
encircled by the ring road, with three enclosed courts Kunst (decorative arts) with its 1 Opernhaus RICHARD- T R Ö N D L I N R I N G
WAGNER-
PLATZ
which includes Europe’s biggest built between 1908 and 1929, stunning gold and ivory 2 Gewandhaus RIC HAR D - WA GN E R- STR A S S E WILLY-BRANDT-PLATZ
railway station, the Haupt­ and Mädlerpassage, built in ornaments, as well as the 3 Nikolaikirche B R ÜHL
bahnhof, built in 1902–15 to a 1912–14, a Modernist commercial valuable town treasury. GOE RD ELE RRI NG
design by William Lossow and building with a passageway 4 Alte Handelsbörse HAINSTR ASSE KAT H ARINENSTRASS E Museum der BR ÜH L
Max Hans Kühne. The heart of connecting Grimmaische Straße E Deutsches Buch- 5 Alte Waage Runde G R O SS EFLEISCHERGASSE Bildenden Künste
musical Leipzig beats in the and Naschmarkt. Beneath it is und Schriftmuseum 6 Altes Rathaus Ecke N I KOLA IST RA SSE RITTERSTRASSE G O ETHE STRA SSE
eastern part of the old town, the Auerbachs Keller, mag- Deutscher Platz 1. Tel (0341) 227 13 7 Mädlerpassage D I T T R I C H R I N G Alte Waage SACHSEN- G E ORG IR ING
around Augustusplatz. Here nificent, 16th-century vaults, 24. Open 9am–4pm Mon–Sat. 8 Thomaskirche Handelsbörse PLATZ Alte
Alte
Nikolaischule &
stands the Neues Gewandhaus immortalized by Goethe in BARFUSSGÄSSCHEN Specks Antikenmuseum
Hof
(built 1977– 81) and the Faust and featuring a room Schauspiel GASSE KLOSTER- MARKT REICHSTRASSE
Opernhaus (built 1959– 60). that bears his name. The Commerzbank Altes Rathaus Nikolaikirche Opernhaus
The University Tower nearby is Commerzbank (Klostergasse/ THOMASKIRCHHOF Auerbachs Handelshof
being redesigned. Thomasgasse) and the Riquet Thomaskirche Keller Mädler- GRIMMAISCHE STR. AUGUSTUSPLATZ
Passage
In Nikolaikirchhof stands the Café, a fine Viennese-style Pharmacy Museum für
Nikolaikirche (church of St coffee house, are attractive Bach- Museum Kunsthandwerk
Nicholas). The present church Art Nouveau buildings. G R O S SEFLEISCHERGASSE Museum Ägyptisches Grassimuseum
was built during the 16th Lovers of Johann Sebastian BURGSTR Museum NEUMARKT Universität ROSSPLATZ
century, although the lower Bach’s music will wish to visit SCHULSTR. SCHLOSSGASSE UNIVE RSITÄTSSTRASSE
sections of its north tower date the Thomaskirche, the magnifi- PETERSTRASSE Gewandhaus
from the 12th century. It has cent late-Gothic church of St M AR T I N-L UTH ER-RI NG MA R KGRAFST RASSE Moritzbastei
Neo-Classical furnishings. The Thomas, built in 1482–96, where Neues SC H ILL ER ST R AS S E Schillerpark
Rathaus
Alte Handelsbörse (old stock Bach was the choir master 0 metres 200
exchange) in Naschmarkt is an from 1723. It now contains The early-Baroque pavilion of the Alte LEUSCHNER- Deutsches Buch und Schriftmuseum
WILHELM-
early-Baroque building, the composer’s tomb. Handelsbörse, the old stock exchange 0 yards 200 MARTIN-LUTHER-RING PLATZ Russische Kirche
Völkerschlachtdenkmal
For hotels and restaurants in this area see pp494 and pp514–16 For map symbols see back flap
166-167_EW_Germany.indd 166 09/10/17 12:49 pm 166-167_EW_Germany.indd 167 09/10/17 12:49 pm

SA X ON Y  167


sculptures by Balthasar VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
Permoser, Antonio Canova and
Auguste Rodin. Practical Information
Road map E4. Tel (0341) 710 42
R Russische Kirche 60. n Katharinenstraße 8 &
Philipp-Rosenthal-Straße 51a. Augustplatz 9 (0341-710 42 60).
Tel (0341) 878 14 53. Open 10am– _ Leipziger Buchmesse (Mar);
5pm daily (to 4pm in winter). Leipziger Orgelsommer (Jul–
The Russian Orthodox Church of Aug); Inter nationaler Johann-
St Alexius was built in 1912–13 Sebastian-Bach Wettbewerb (Jul);
Leipziger Jazztage (Oct).
to commemorate the 22,000 ∑ leipzig.travel.de
Russian soldiers who died in
1813, in the Battle of the Transport
Nations. The architect, Vladimir k Flughafen Leipzig–Halle.
The Russische Kirche, a pastiche of the Pokrowski, based his design £ Willy-Brandt-Platz.
churches in Novgorod on the churches of Novgorod
in Russia.
This museum is devoted to the The grand Renaissance town
history of German literature. It P Völkerschlachtdenkmal hall, built in 1556 to a design
contains rare manuscripts and Straße des 18 Oktober 100. Tel (0341) by Hieronymus Lotter, is now
old prints. 241 68 70. Open Apr–Oct: 10am–6pm the home of the municipal
daily, Nov–Mar: 10am–4pm daily. & museum. One room is devoted
E Museum der This giant, Teutonic-style to Felix Mendelssohn-Bartholdy,
Bildenden Künste monument is the work of who conducted the symphony
Katharinenstraße 10 (Sachsenplatz). architect Bruno Schmitz. orchestra from 1835 until his
Tel (0341) 216 999 20. Open 10am– Completed for the centenary of death in 1847.
6pm Tue & Thu–Sun, noon–8pm Wed. the 1813 Battle of the Nations,
This museum has an excellent which pitched the combined E Bacharchive und
collection of German masters, Prussian, Austrian and Russian Bachmuseum
including Lucas Cranach the armies against Napoleon, it now Thomaskirchhof 15–16.
Elder, Martin Schongauer and houses a small museum. Tel (0341) 913 72 202.
Caspar David Friedrich, as well Open 10am–6pm daily.
as other magnificent European P Altes Rathaus This museum houses archives
paintings. There are canvases Markt 1. Tel (0341) 261 77 60. Museum and documents relating to the
by Jan van Eyck, Rubens, für Geschichte der Stadt Leipzig: life and works of the composer
Frans Hals, Tintoretto and Open 10am–6pm Tue–Sun. J S Bach.

Flugfhafen
Leipzig City Centre 15 km (9 miles) Hauptbahnhof
RICHARD- T R Ö N D L I N R I N G
1 Opernhaus WAGNER-
PLATZ
RIC HAR D - WA GN E R- STR A S S E WILLY-BRANDT-PLATZ
2 Gewandhaus
3 Nikolaikirche GOE RD ELE RRI NG B R ÜHL
4 Alte Handelsbörse
Museum der
5 Alte Waage G R O SS EFLEISCHERGASSE HAINSTR ASSE KAT H ARINENSTRASS E Bildenden Künste BR ÜH L
6 Altes Rathaus Runde RITTERSTRASSE G O ETHE STRA SSE
Ecke
7 Mädlerpassage SACHSEN- N I KOLA IST RA SSE G E ORG IR ING
8 Thomaskirche D I T T R I C H R I N G Alte Waage Alte PLATZ Alte
Nikolaischule &
Handelsbörse Antikenmuseum
BARFUSSGÄSSCHEN Specks
Hof
Schauspiel GASSE KLOSTER- MARKT REICHSTRASSE
Commerzbank Altes Rathaus Nikolaikirche Opernhaus
THOMASKIRCHHOF Auerbachs Handelshof
Thomaskirche Keller Mädler- GRIMMAISCHE STR. AUGUSTUSPLATZ
G R O S SEFLEISCHERGASSE Bach- Pharmacy Kunsthandwerk Universität Grassimuseum
Passage
Museum für
Museum
Museum
NEUMARKT
BURGSTR
ROSSPLATZ
Ägyptisches
Museum
M AR T I N-L UTH ER-RI NG SCHULSTR. SCHLOSSGASSE PETERSTRASSE SC H ILL ER ST R AS S E UNIVE RSITÄTSSTRASSE Schillerpark
Gewandhaus
Moritzbastei
MA R KGRAFST RASSE
Neues
Rathaus
0 metres 200 WILHELM-
PLATZ
Russische Kirche
0 yards 200 MARTIN-LUTHER-RING LEUSCHNER- Deutsches Buch und Schriftmuseum
Völkerschlachtdenkmal
For map symbols see back flap
166-167_EW_Germany.indd 167 09/10/17 12:49 pm

168  EASTERN GERM AN Y SA X ON Y  169


3 Mulde Valley Mulde river. The most important complex bearing the same name. 1225–30. Inside are many original
historic building in the town is The best way to get there is by items, such as a tulip-shaped
Road map E4.
the Dom St Marien (cathedral cable car, from Erdmannsdorf. pulpit (1505) and two Baroque
Several magnificent old castles of St Mary), a magnificent late- This Renaissance hunting palace organs by Gottfried Silbermann.
nestle in the scenic hills at the Gothic hall-church built 1453– was built for the Great Elector, Organ recitals take place on
confluence of two rivers – 1537. Preserved to this day Augustus, in 1567–72, on the Thursdays at 8pm, May
the Zwickauer Mulde and the are its original main altar site of the former Schloß through to October.
Freiberger Mulde. In the dating from 1479, the work of Schellenberg, which had been When visiting
small town of Colditz, with its Michael Wolgemut, the grand destroyed by fire. Constructed nearby Unter markt,
timber-frame houses, lovely architectural Holy Tomb of under Hieronymus Lotter and it is worth going to
Renaissance town hall and Michael Heuffner, dating from Erhard van der Meer, it is a the Stadt- und
Gothic church of St Egidien, 1507, as well as a Renaissance symmetrical, square building with Bergbau museum
stands a huge Gothic castle font and a pulpit of 1538, both towered pavilions at each corner, (municipal and
built in 1578–91 on the site of by Paul Speck. joined by galleries, gates and a mining museum)
an 11th-century castle. During Also worth visiting in the old chapel to the east, with an altar which explains
World War II it was a famous town are the Old Phar macy, the by Lucas Cranach the Younger. the history of
prisoner-of-war camp known Schumann-Haus, the composer’s Today the palace houses several mining in the
as Oflag IVC. birthplace (1810), and the Lew Kerbel’s monument to Karl Marx at the museums devoted to motor- area, as well as
Doorway of Schloß Hartenfels, with its In Rochlitz, 11 km (7 miles) Renaissance Gewandhaus Stadthalle in Chemnitz cycles, coaches and hunting. the collection of
coat of arms, in Torgau south of Colditz, stands another (cloth house), once the seat minerals at the
large castle, built in stages from of the Drapers’ Guild and now Realist style and renamed 7 Sächsische Mineralien- und
2 Torgau the 12th to the 16th centuries. a theatre and museum. Karl-Marx-Stadt. Only a handful Silberstraße Lagerstätten
Travelling further south you will of historic buildings escaped sammlung der Otto of Meissen,
Road map E4. * 23,000. £ @ n encounter other castles: the destruction. The most interesting See pp170–71. Bergakademie. founder of Freiberg
Markt 1 (03421-70 140). _ Torgauer Wechselburg, a reconstructed 5 Chemnitz is the Schloßkirche, the former A stroll along
Auszugsfest (May). ∑ torgau.eu
Baroque castle featuring a late- Road map E4. * 260,000. Benedictine abbey church St the winding streets will take the
This small town, with its scenic Romanesque collegiate church, £ Georgstraße @ Markt. n Markt 1 Maria, built at the turn of the 8 Freiberg visitor to Obermarkt, where the
location on the Elbe, was once as well as the Renaissance castle in (0371-690 680/ 0371-19 433). 15th and 16th centuries. Road map E4. * 45,000. £ @ 15th-century Gothic town hall,
the favourite residence of the Rochsburg. In the neighbouring ∑ chemnitz-tourismus.de Sights in the town centre n Burgstraße 1 (03731-27 36 64). a fountain with the statue of the
Saxon Electors. Its main square Zschopau valley stands the include the reconstructed Altes _ Bergstadtfest (Jun), Silbermann- town’s founder and attractive
is surrounded by attractive magnificent, oval Burg After World War II, when 90 per Rathaus (old town hall), the Tage (Sep). ∑ freiberg-service.de houses can be seen.
houses of various styles, in Kriebstein, built in stages and cent of its buildings had been Gothic Roter Turm (red tower)
particular Renaissance. The completed in the late 14th reduced to rubble, the town and remains of fortifications. Development of this mining P Dom St Marien
Renaissance Rathaus (town century. This fortress houses was rebuilt in the Socialist- In the main square is the town was due to the dis covery Untermarkt 1. Goldene Pforte:
hall), built in 1561–77, has a a small museum and reconstructed Baroque of silver deposits, and Freiberg Tel (03731) 225 98. 8 May–Oct:
lovely semicircular oriel. Other concert hall, and Siegertsches Haus, originally was granted town status in 10am–noon, 2–5pm daily; Nov–Apr:
old town attractions include medieval music built in 1737–41 to a design by 1186. It escaped World War II 11am–noon, 2–4pm daily. With organ
the Marienkirche, a late-Gothic concerts are Johann Christoph Naumann. with remarkably little damage. presentation: 11:30am Sun.
church with an extended held here during The new town centre is Today its attractions include E Stadt- und Bergbau museum
Romanesque west section. the summer. dominated by the vast Stadthalle the reconstructed old town and Am Dom 1. Tel (03731) 202 50.
The interior has many original (city hall) with Lew Kerbel’s many historic buildings, the gem Open 10am–5pm Tue–Sun. &
features, including a painting 1971 monument to Karl Marx. among them being the Dom St P Mineralien- und
by Lucas Cranach the Elder, The 4 Zwickau The König-Albert-Kunst- Marien (cathedral). This late- Lagerstättensammlung
Fourteen Helpers, and the tomb Road map E4. sammlungen has a museum Gothic hall-church, erected at der Bergakademie
of Luther’s wife, Katharina von * 120,000. £ @ of natural history and a fine arts the end of the 15th century, Brennhausgasse 14. Tel (03731) 39 22
Bora, who died in Torgau. n Hauptstraße 6 (0375- collection, including works by features a stunning main portal, 64. Open 9am–noon & 1–4pm Wed–
The main historic building 27 13 240). _ Robert- Karl Schmidt-Rottluff. the Goldene Pforte, dating from Fri, 9am–4pm Sat.
in Torgau is the Renaissance Schumann-Tage (Jun);
Schloß Hartenfels, built on the TrabiTreffen (Jun). E Kunstsammlungen Chemnitz
site of a 10th-century castle. ∑ zwickau.de Theaterplatz 1. Tel (0371) 488 44 24.
Its courtyard is surrounded by Open 11am–6pm Tue–Sun.
clusters of residential wings, An old commercial Bibliothek: 1–6pm Wed. &
including the late-Gothic town, Zwickau
Albrechtspalast built in 1470–85, flourished in the 15th
the Johann-Friedrich-Bau and 16th centuries. 6 Augustusburg
(1533–6) with its beautiful Today it is known for Road map E4. * 5,000 @
external spiral staircase and the Trabant cars that n Marienberger Straße 24 (037291-
the early-Baroque west wing were produced here 395 50). Schloss: Open Apr–Oct:
(1616–23). The Schloßkapelle during the GDR era. 9:30am– 6pm daily; Nov–Mar:
(castle chapel), which was Almost all the town’s 10am–5pm daily.
conse crated by Martin Luther attractions can be ∑ augustusburg.de
in 1544, is considered to be found in the old
one of the oldest churches town, on the banks Gate of the Renaissance pulpit in the Dom St Marien, The small town is insignifi cant
built for Protestants. of the Zwickauer in Zwickau compared with the vast palace Façade of the Renaissance Schloß Augustusburg
For hotels and restaurants in this area see p494 and pp514–16


168-169_EW_Germany.indd 168 09/10/17 12:58 pm 168-169_EW_Germany.indd 169 09/10/17 12:58 pm
Eyewitness Travel LAYERS PRINTED:
Catalogue template “UK” LAYER
(Source v2.2)
Date 15th January 2013
Size 125mm x 217mm

SA X ON Y  169


complex bearing the same name. 1225–30. Inside are many original
The best way to get there is by items, such as a tulip-shaped
cable car, from Erdmannsdorf. pulpit (1505) and two Baroque
This Renaissance hunting palace organs by Gottfried Silbermann.
was built for the Great Elector, Organ recitals take place on
Augustus, in 1567–72, on the Thursdays at 8pm, May
site of the former Schloß through to October.
Schellenberg, which had been When visiting
destroyed by fire. Constructed nearby Unter markt,
under Hieronymus Lotter and it is worth going to
Erhard van der Meer, it is a the Stadt- und
symmetrical, square building with Bergbau museum
towered pavilions at each corner, (municipal and
joined by galleries, gates and a mining museum)
chapel to the east, with an altar which explains
by Lucas Cranach the Younger. the history of
Today the palace houses several mining in the
Lew Kerbel’s monument to Karl Marx at the museums devoted to motor- area, as well as
Stadthalle in Chemnitz cycles, coaches and hunting. the collection of
minerals at the
Realist style and renamed 7 Sächsische Mineralien- und
Karl-Marx-Stadt. Only a handful Silberstraße Lagerstätten
of historic buildings escaped sammlung der Otto of Meissen,
destruction. The most interesting See pp170–71. Bergakademie. founder of Freiberg
is the Schloßkirche, the former A stroll along
Benedictine abbey church St the winding streets will take the
Maria, built at the turn of the 8 Freiberg visitor to Obermarkt, where the
15th and 16th centuries. Road map E4. * 45,000. £ @ 15th-century Gothic town hall,
Sights in the town centre n Burgstraße 1 (03731-27 36 64). a fountain with the statue of the
include the reconstructed Altes _ Bergstadtfest (Jun), Silbermann- town’s founder and attractive
Rathaus (old town hall), the Tage (Sep). ∑ freiberg-service.de houses can be seen.
Gothic Roter Turm (red tower)
and remains of fortifications. Development of this mining P Dom St Marien
In the main square is the town was due to the dis covery Untermarkt 1. Goldene Pforte:
reconstructed Baroque of silver deposits, and Freiberg Tel (03731) 225 98. 8 May–Oct:
Siegertsches Haus, originally was granted town status in 10am–noon, 2–5pm daily; Nov–Apr:
built in 1737–41 to a design by 1186. It escaped World War II 11am–noon, 2–4pm daily. With organ
Johann Christoph Naumann. with remarkably little damage. presentation: 11:30am Sun.
The new town centre is Today its attractions include E Stadt- und Bergbau museum
dominated by the vast Stadthalle the reconstructed old town and Am Dom 1. Tel (03731) 202 50.
(city hall) with Lew Kerbel’s many historic buildings, the gem Open 10am–5pm Tue–Sun. &
1971 monument to Karl Marx. among them being the Dom St P Mineralien- und
The König-Albert-Kunst- Marien (cathedral). This late- Lagerstättensammlung
sammlungen has a museum Gothic hall-church, erected at der Bergakademie
of natural history and a fine arts the end of the 15th century, Brennhausgasse 14. Tel (03731) 39 22
collection, including works by features a stunning main portal, 64. Open 9am–noon & 1–4pm Wed–
Karl Schmidt-Rottluff. the Goldene Pforte, dating from Fri, 9am–4pm Sat.
E Kunstsammlungen Chemnitz
Theaterplatz 1. Tel (0371) 488 44 24.
Open 11am–6pm Tue–Sun.
Bibliothek: 1–6pm Wed. &

6 Augustusburg
Road map E4. * 5,000 @
n Marienberger Straße 24 (037291-
395 50). Schloss: Open Apr–Oct:
9:30am– 6pm daily; Nov–Mar:
10am–5pm daily.
∑ augustusburg.de
The small town is insignifi cant
compared with the vast palace Façade of the Renaissance Schloß Augustusburg




168-169_EW_Germany.indd 169 09/10/17 12:58 pm

170  EASTERN GERM AN Y SA X ON Y  171


9 Meissen
7 Sächsische Silberstraße
Road map 4E. & 36,000. £ @ n
The Saxon silver route, through the Erzgebirge (mineral Markt 3 (03521-419 40). _ Stadt- und
Weinfest (Sep). ∑ stadt-meissen.de
ore mountains), takes the visitor to some of the most
interesting and scenic places of the region. Silver was Meissen is famous for its
mined here from the 12th century, and mining traditions porcelain manufacture (see
pp128–9). Its history began in
have been preserved to this day. Small towns entice 929, when Henry I made it the
visitors with their interesting parish churches, former bridgehead for his expansion to
mining settlements, museums and disused mines. the east, into Slav territories. In
966 Meissen became the capital
1 Schneeberg A small mining town, which to this 3 Annaberg-Buchholz of the newly established
day cultivates its art and crafts traditions, Schneeberg Although the town enjoyed only Meissen margravate, and in
is also famous for the St Wolfgangkirche, with an altar a brief spell of prosperity in the 968 a bishopric. The Baroque hunting lodge in Moritzburg
masterpiece by Lucas Cranach the Elder. 16th century, its church from This town has retained much
that period, St Annen, ranks of its charm. In the town square showing historical scenes, are 0 Moritzburg
among the most beautiful is the late-Gothic Rathaus the work of Wilhelm Römann.
2 Oberwiesenthal This important examples of late-Gothic (town hall), built in 1472–8, The cathedral church of St John Road map 4E. £ n Schloßallee
3b (035207-85 40). _ Kammer-
wintersports resort, close to the Czech border architecture in Saxony. some beautiful Re naissance the Evangelist and St Donat, musikfestival (Aug); Fischzug (Oct).
and at the foot of the Fichtelberg, offers a ski- houses and the Frauenkirche, built from the mid-13th century
jump, downhill ski runs and toboggan runs. a late-Gothic, 15th-century to the early 15th century, has The first hunting lodge in
church boasting the world’s some splendid early-Gothic this marshy region was built
0 km 5 oldest porcelain carillon, which sculptures, an altar by Lucas in the mid-16th century, for
Wolkenstein
0 miles 5 was hung here in 1929. It is also Cranach the Elder in the Moritz of Saxony. The present
Obernhau
Ehrenfrie- worth taking a stroll to St Afra’s Georgskapelle and ducal tombs Schloß Moritzburg is the result
dersdorf church, built in the 13th century in the Fürstenkapelle. of extensive alterations ordered
for the Augustian monks. by Augustus the Strong,
P Staatliche Porzellan- directed by Matthäus Daniel
+ Albrechtsburg Manufaktur Pöppelmann, and carried out
Aue Domplatz 1. Tel (03521) 47 070. Talstraße 9. Tel (03521) 46 87 00. in 1723–26. The result is a
Open Mar–Oct: 10am–6pm daily; Open May–Oct: 9am–6pm daily; square building, with four
Lauter Nov–Feb: 10am–5pm daily. Nov–Apr: 9am–5pm daily. cylindrical corner towers. Much
Closed 24, 25, 31 Dec. & ∑ meissen.com of the interior has survived,
Schwarzenberg The Albrechtsburg is a vast, The first porcelain factory in including period furnishings
fortified hilltop complex with Europe was set up in 1710 in and hunting trophies.
a cathedral and an Elector’s the castle and moved to its Also open to visitors is the
palace. The latter was built in present premises in 1865. 17th-century castle chapel
1471–89 for the Wettin brothers, Documents relating to the decorated with splendid stucco
Ernst and Albrecht. Designed by history of the factory and many ornaments. Augustus the
Arnold von Westfalen, its special interesting examples of its Strong ordered the marshes
feature is the magnificent products are on display in to be drained, and the newly
external spiral staircase. From the exhibition rooms. Guided available land to be transformed
1710 the palace was used as a tours and demonstrations into landscaped gardens and
porcelain factory. It was restored take the visitor through all lakes. The Fasanenschlößchen
to its former glory in 1864. Huge the stages of the porcelain (little pheasant castle) in the
wall paintings of this period, manufacturing process. eastern part of the gardens
features several interesting
Rococo interiors, and also
houses a zoological exhibition.
6 Marienberg This small 4 Frohnau The biggest At the end of World War II,
town, with its wonderful attraction of this town is its old the German artist Käthe Kollwitz
Renaissance town hall, is forge, featuring the Frohnauer spent the last years of her life in
known mainly for the Hammer, a huge original hammer Moritzburg. The house in which
production of furniture. that remained in use until 1904. she lived and worked is now the
Käthe-Kollwitz-Gedenkstätte.
Key
Suggested route Tips for Drivers + Schloß Moritzburg
Other road 5 Greifensteine Fantastic, Length of the route: 55 km Tel (035207) 8730. Open Feb–Mar:
State boundary craggy rock formations in the (34 miles). 10am–4pm Sat & Sun; Apr–Oct:
10am–5:30pm daily; Nov–Dec:
north of the region, shaped Stopping points: inns and
Viewpoint 10am–4pm Tue–Sun. &
like an amphitheatre, attract restaurants in every town.
rock-climbers and hill-walkers. + Fasanenschlößchen
The late-Gothic Rathaus in Meissen Open as above. 8 compulsory.
For map symbols see back flap For hotels and restaurants in this area see p494 and pp514–16

170-171_EW_Germany.indd 170 09/10/17 12:49 pm 170-171_EW_Germany.indd 171 09/10/17 12:49 pm
Eyewitness Travel LAYERS PRINTED:
Catalogue template “UK” LAYER
(Source v2.3)
Date 6th February 2013
Size 125mm x 217mm

SA X ON Y  171


9 Meissen
Road map 4E. & 36,000. £ @ n
Markt 3 (03521-419 40). _ Stadt- und
Weinfest (Sep). ∑ stadt-meissen.de
Meissen is famous for its
porcelain manufacture (see
pp128–9). Its history began in
929, when Henry I made it the
bridgehead for his expansion to
the east, into Slav territories. In
966 Meissen became the capital
of the newly established
Meissen margravate, and in
968 a bishopric. The Baroque hunting lodge in Moritzburg
This town has retained much
of its charm. In the town square showing historical scenes, are 0 Moritzburg
is the late-Gothic Rathaus the work of Wilhelm Römann. Road map 4E. £ n Schloßallee
(town hall), built in 1472–8, The cathedral church of St John 3b (035207-85 40). _ Kammer-
some beautiful Re naissance the Evangelist and St Donat, musikfestival (Aug); Fischzug (Oct).
houses and the Frauenkirche, built from the mid-13th century
a late-Gothic, 15th-century to the early 15th century, has The first hunting lodge in
church boasting the world’s some splendid early-Gothic this marshy region was built
oldest porcelain carillon, which sculptures, an altar by Lucas in the mid-16th century, for
was hung here in 1929. It is also Cranach the Elder in the Moritz of Saxony. The present
worth taking a stroll to St Afra’s Georgskapelle and ducal tombs Schloß Moritzburg is the result
church, built in the 13th century in the Fürstenkapelle. of extensive alterations ordered
for the Augustian monks. by Augustus the Strong,
P Staatliche Porzellan- directed by Matthäus Daniel
+ Albrechtsburg Manufaktur Pöppelmann, and carried out
Domplatz 1. Tel (03521) 47 070. Talstraße 9. Tel (03521) 46 87 00. in 1723–26. The result is a
Open Mar–Oct: 10am–6pm daily; Open May–Oct: 9am–6pm daily; square building, with four
Nov–Feb: 10am–5pm daily. Nov–Apr: 9am–5pm daily. cylindrical corner towers. Much
Closed 24, 25, 31 Dec. & ∑ meissen.com of the interior has survived,
The Albrechtsburg is a vast, The first porcelain factory in including period furnishings
fortified hilltop complex with Europe was set up in 1710 in and hunting trophies.
a cathedral and an Elector’s the castle and moved to its Also open to visitors is the
palace. The latter was built in present premises in 1865. 17th-century castle chapel
1471–89 for the Wettin brothers, Documents relating to the decorated with splendid stucco
Ernst and Albrecht. Designed by history of the factory and many ornaments. Augustus the
Arnold von Westfalen, its special interesting examples of its Strong ordered the marshes
feature is the magnificent products are on display in to be drained, and the newly
external spiral staircase. From the exhibition rooms. Guided available land to be transformed
1710 the palace was used as a tours and demonstrations into landscaped gardens and
porcelain factory. It was restored take the visitor through all lakes. The Fasanenschlößchen
to its former glory in 1864. Huge the stages of the porcelain (little pheasant castle) in the
wall paintings of this period, manufacturing process. eastern part of the gardens
features several interesting
Rococo interiors, and also
houses a zoological exhibition.
At the end of World War II,
the German artist Käthe Kollwitz
spent the last years of her life in
Moritzburg. The house in which
she lived and worked is now the
Käthe-Kollwitz-Gedenkstätte.
+ Schloß Moritzburg
Tel (035207) 8730. Open Feb–Mar:
10am–4pm Sat & Sun; Apr–Oct:
10am–5:30pm daily; Nov–Dec:
10am–4pm Tue–Sun. &
+ Fasanenschlößchen
The late-Gothic Rathaus in Meissen Open as above. 8 compulsory.
For hotels and restaurants in this area see p494 and pp514–16


170-171_EW_Germany.indd 171 09/10/17 12:49 pm

172  EASTERN GERM AN Y DRESDEN  173

q Dresden This former residence of the façade facing the courtyard is VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
Wettin family was built in stages decorated with sgraffito and has
One of Germany’s most beautiful cities, Dresden first gained from the late 15th to the 17th shady arcades supported by slim Practical Information
its pre-eminence in the year 1485, when the Albertine centuries. It houses some of the columns. It provided an excellent Road map E4. * 480,000.
Wettins decided to establish their residence here. The town most beautiful art collections in backdrop for tournaments and n Neumarkt 2 (beside
Frauenkirche) (0351-501 501);
blossomed during the 18th century when it became a cultural East Germany, including the parades. The wall facing the Wiener Platz 4 (in railway station).
street features the so-called
world famous Grünes Gewölbe
centre and acquired many magnificent buildings. Almost all (Green Vaults), a vast collection Fürstenzug (procession of dukes) _ Flotten-parade der Sächs.
of these, however, were completely destroyed during the of royal jewels, gems and table – a magnificent, 102 m (111 yd)- Dampfschiffahrt (May); Elbhangfest
night of 13/14 February 1945, when British and American decorations. Book in advance long frieze depicting the pro- (Jun); Stadtfest (Aug);
Weihnachtsmarkt (Nov–Dec).
air forces mounted a vast carpet-bombing raid on the city. for the ground-floor “vault”. The cession of many Saxon rulers. ∑ dresden.de
Today, meticulous restoration work is in progress to return Hausmann sturm, which is a tall The frieze was originally created Transport
the historic city centre to its former glory, now with renewed tower, affords a great view of by Wilhelm Walther in 1872–6 k Dresden-Klotzsche 15 km
the Dresden skyline.
using the sgraffito technique, but
effort because of the damage caused by flooding in 2002. it was replaced in 1907 by 24,000 (9 miles) from centre.
P Fürstenzug Meissen porcelain tiles. £ Hauptbahnhof, Wiener Platz
Augustusstraße (0351-461 37 10).
Langer Gang (long walk) is a long E Verkehrsmuseum g Sächsische Dampfschiffahrt,
Roof top view of Frauenkirche’s dome building, erected in 1586–91, (Johanneum) Radebeul, Hertha-Lindner-
Straße 10. (0351) 86 60 90.
which connects the castle with Augustusstraße 1. Tel (0351) 86 440.
R Frauenkirche the Johanneum. The elegant Open 10am–5pm Tue–Sun.
An der Frauenkirche. Tel (0351) 65 This late 16th-century
60 656. Open 10am–noon, 1pm– Renaissance building, originally
6pm daily. designed as royal stables by Paul
This giant church, designed by Buchner, was refurbished in the
Georg Bähr and built in 1726–43, mid-18th century and housed
has been restored to its former first a gallery of paintings, later
glory. Once again, the shining, an armoury and a porcelain
giant dome dominates the city’s collection. Since 1956 it has
One of Dresden’s foremost landmarks, the monumental Hofkirche, in winter skyline. Completely destroyed in been a museum of transport,
1945 by Allied bombing, its shell with old trams, locomotives, a
P Sächsische Staatsoper famous Berlin architect, Karl survived intact, only to collapse collection of vintage cars and
Theaterplatz 2. Tel (0351) 49 110. Friedrich Schinkel. It was built later. Reconstruction began Fragment of the Fürstenzug, outside Langer Gang models of famous German ships.
Tours Tel (0351) 79 66 305. between 1830 and 1832. in 1993 and is now complete.
A NTONSTRASS E
The imposing, Neo-Renaissance Notable features include an
building of the Saxon state opera R Hofkirche elegant cupola and, inside, A NTONSTRASS E Dresden City Centre
FlughafenFlughafen
is one of Dresden’s landmarks. It is Theaterplatz. (Entrance on a colourful dome. 15 km (9 miles)15 km (9 miles) 1 Zwinger
also known as Semperoper after Schloßplatz). Open daily. HAINSTR. HAINSTR. Kraszewski-MuseumKraszewski-Museum 2 Sächsische Staatsoper
Pfunds Molkerai,Pfunds Molkerai,
its creator, the famous architect This monumental Baroque P Residenzschloß NIERITZSTR
K Ö N I G S T R A S S
NIERITZSTR
Gottfried Semper, who designed royal church has served as the Taschenberg 2. Grünes Gewölbe PALAIS-PALAIS- K Ö N I G S T R A S SE E DreikönigskircheDreikönigskirche 3 Schinkelwache
it twice: the first building, erected Catholic Dom (cathedral church) Tel (0351) 49 142 000. Open 10am– PLATZPLATZ 4 Hofkirche
HAUPTSTRASSE
in 1838–41, burned down in 1869, of the Dresden-Meissen Diocese 6pm Wed–Mon. Hausmann sturm MarienbrückeMarienbrücke JapanischesJapanisches HAUPTSTRASSE 5 Residenzschloß
the second one was completed since 1980. The presence of Open 10am–6pm Wed–Mon. Karl-May-Karl-May- PalaisPalais GROSSE MEISSNER STR ALBERTSTRASSE 6 Fürstenzug
GoldenerGoldener
KONNERITZSTRASSE
MuseumMuseum
in 1878. Reconstruction after this Catholic church in staunchly ReiterReiter Museum für Museum für 7 Johanneum
SächsischeSächsische
ALBERTSTRASSE
World War II dragged on until Protestant Saxony was KONNERITZSTRASSE OSTRA-UFER TERRASS E N U FER NEUSTÄDTER NEUSTÄDTER VolkskunstVolkskunst 8 Frauenkirche
GROSSE MEISSNER STR
1985. The opera house was dictated by political necessity: Elb BlockhausBlockhaus MARKTMARKT K ÖPCKEST R CAROLA-CAROLA- 9 Brühlsche Terrasse
PLATZPLATZ
K ÖPCKEST R . .
OSTRA-UFER
the venue for many world in his struggle for the Polish 0 Albertinum
Elbe e
premieres, including Tannhäuser crown, the Elector, Augustus DEV RIEN TS TR ASS E q Stadtmuseum Dresden
TERRASS E N U FER
and The Flying Dutchman by the Strong, was forced to O STR A-ALLEE w Kreuzkirche
SächsischeSächsische
DEV RIEN TS TR ASS E
Richard Wagner, as well as many convert to Catholicism. The StaatsoperStaatsoper e Neues Rathaus
A M Z WING ERTEICH
works by Richard Strauss. church was designed by an AugustusbrückeAugustusbrücke CarolabrückeCarolabrücke r Museum f. Sächs.
O STR A-ALLEE
In front of the opera, in Italian architect, Gaetano A M Z WING ERTEICH THEATER-THEATER- HofkircheHofkirche BrühlscheBrühlsche Blaues WunderBlaues Wunder Volkskunst
PLATZPLATZ
TerrasseTerrasse
T E R R A S S E N U F E R
Theaterplatz, is a monument Chiaveri, and built in 1738–51. SchinkelwacheSchinkelwache Fürstenzug T E R R A S S E N U F E R t Goldener Reiter
Fürstenzug
ST PETERSBURGER STR AS SE
to the Saxon King Johann, by The church’s interior has two- Frauen-Frauen- y Japanisches Palais
Johannes Schilling. tier passageways which run ZwingerZwinger kirchekirche AlbertinumAlbertinum
H.-LINDNER-STR
from the main nave to the side H.-LINDNER-STR THEATERSTR. JohanneumJohanneum
SOPHIENSTR
SCHLOSSSTR.
SCHLOSSSTR.
P Schinkelwache naves. Rebuilt after World War II, SOPHIENSTR ResidenzschlossResidenzschloss NEUMARKTNEUMARKT ST PETERSBURGER STR AS SE
Taschen-Taschen-
OSTRA-ALLEE
OSTRA-ALLEE
bergpalaisbergpalais
THEATERSTR.
Theaterplatz. Tel (0351) 49 11 705 (box it features a magnificent Rococo POST-POST- WILSDRUFFER STR. KulturpalastKulturpalast
PLATZPLATZ
office). Open 10am– 6pm Mon–Fri, pulpit by Balthasar Permoser, StadtmuseumStadtmuseum
WILSDRUFFER STR.
DresdenDresden
ANNENSTRASS
10am–1pm Sat & Sun. a painting by Anton Raphael ANNENSTRASSE E ALTMARKTALTMARKT
This small Neo-Classical Mengus entitled Assumption WALLSTRASSE GewandhausGewandhaus Großer Garten,Großer Garten,
Schloss PillnitzSchloss Pillnitz
building, with its sophisticated in the main altar, and the vast MARIENSTRASSE KreuzkircheKreuzkirche 0 metres 100
lines and its immaculate organ – the last work of Façade of a wing of the Residenz schloß, A M S E E SEESTR. SEESTR.
WALLSTRASSE
proportions, is the work of the Gottfried Silbermann. with sgraffito decoration DR- K ÜLZ-RI N G Neues RathausNeues Rathaus 0 yards 100
MARIENSTRASSE
DR- K ÜLZ-RI N G
A M S E E
HauptbanhofHauptbanhof
360 m (400 yards)360 m (400 yards)
For map symbols see back flap
172-173_EW_Germany.indd 172 09/10/17 12:59 pm 172-173_EW_Germany.indd 173 09/10/17 12:59 pm
Eyewitness Travel LAYERS PRINTED:
Catalogue template “UK” LAYER
(Source v2.2)
Date 15th January 2013
Size 125mm x 217mm

DRESDEN  173


This former residence of the façade facing the courtyard is VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
Wettin family was built in stages decorated with sgraffito and has
from the late 15th to the 17th shady arcades supported by slim Practical Information
centuries. It houses some of the columns. It provided an excellent Road map E4. * 480,000.
most beautiful art collections in backdrop for tournaments and n Neumarkt 2 (beside
East Germany, including the parades. The wall facing the Frauenkirche) (0351-501 501);
world famous Grünes Gewölbe street features the so-called Wiener Platz 4 (in railway station).
(Green Vaults), a vast collection Fürstenzug (procession of dukes) _ Flotten-parade der Sächs.
of royal jewels, gems and table – a magnificent, 102 m (111 yd)- Dampfschiffahrt (May); Elbhangfest
decorations. Book in advance long frieze depicting the pro- (Jun); Stadtfest (Aug);
Weihnachtsmarkt (Nov–Dec).
for the ground-floor “vault”. The cession of many Saxon rulers. ∑ dresden.de
Hausmann sturm, which is a tall The frieze was originally created
tower, affords a great view of by Wilhelm Walther in 1872–6 Transport
the Dresden skyline. using the sgraffito technique, but k Dresden-Klotzsche 15 km
it was replaced in 1907 by 24,000 (9 miles) from centre.
P Fürstenzug Meissen porcelain tiles. £ Hauptbahnhof, Wiener Platz
Augustusstraße (0351-461 37 10).
Langer Gang (long walk) is a long E Verkehrsmuseum g Sächsische Dampfschiffahrt,
Radebeul, Hertha-Lindner-
building, erected in 1586–91, (Johanneum) Straße 10. (0351) 86 60 90.
which connects the castle with Augustusstraße 1. Tel (0351) 86 440.
the Johanneum. The elegant Open 10am–5pm Tue–Sun.
This late 16th-century
Renaissance building, originally
designed as royal stables by Paul
Buchner, was refurbished in the
mid-18th century and housed
first a gallery of paintings, later
an armoury and a porcelain
collection. Since 1956 it has
been a museum of transport,
with old trams, locomotives, a
collection of vintage cars and
Fragment of the Fürstenzug, outside Langer Gang models of famous German ships.
A NTONSTRASS E Pfunds Molkerai, Dresden City Centre

Flughafen
HAINSTR.
15 km (9 miles)
1 Zwinger
K Ö N I G S T R A S SE Kraszewski-Museum 2 Sächsische Staatsoper
3 Schinkelwache
NIERITZSTR
PALAIS- Dreikönigskirche 4 Hofkirche
PLATZ 5 Residenzschloß
Marienbrücke Japanisches HAUPTSTRASSE
Karl-May- Palais GROSSE MEISSNER STR Museum für ALBERTSTRASSE 6 Fürstenzug
Goldener
KONNERITZSTRASSE OSTRA-UFER TERRASS E N U FER Elbe Blockhaus NEUSTÄDTER Sächsische CAROLA- 8 Frauenkirche
Museum
7 Johanneum
Reiter
Volkskunst
MARKT
9 Brühlsche Terrasse
K ÖPCKEST R .
PLATZ
0 Albertinum
q Stadtmuseum Dresden
w Kreuzkirche
Sächsische
DEV RIEN TS TR ASS E
Staatsoper Augustusbrücke e Neues Rathaus
A M Z WING ERTEICH THEATER- Brühlsche Carolabrücke r Museum f. Sächs.
O STR A-ALLEE
Blaues Wunder
Volkskunst
PLATZ
Terrasse
Schinkelwache Hofkirche T E R R A S S E N U F E R t Goldener Reiter
Fürstenzug
Frauen- Albertinum y Japanisches Palais
kirche
H.-LINDNER-STR THEATERSTR. OSTRA-ALLEE SOPHIENSTR Residenzschloss
Zwinger
Johanneum
Taschen-
POST- bergpalais SCHLOSSSTR. Kulturpalast NEUMARKT ST PETERSBURGER STR AS SE
PLATZ
Stadtmuseum
WILSDRUFFER STR.
Dresden
ANNENSTRASSE ALTMARKT
Gewandhaus Großer Garten,
Kreuzkirche Schloss Pillnitz
SEESTR. 0 metres 100
WALLSTRASSE
MARIENSTRASSE
DR- K ÜLZ-RI N G Neues Rathaus 0 yards 100
A M S E E
Hauptbanhof
360 m (400 yards)
For map symbols see back flap
172-173_EW_Germany.indd 173 09/10/17 12:59 pm

174-175_EW_Germany.indd 174 09/10/17 12:49 pm 174-175_EW_Germany.indd 175 09/10/17 12:49 pm

174-175_EW_Germany.indd 175 09/10/17 12:49 pm

176  EASTERN GERM AN Y DRESDEN  177


P Brühlsche Terrasse of Saxon culture and
Brühlsche Terrasse. traditions, especially from the
Once part of the town’s Erzgebirge Mountains.
fortifications, this attractive
terrace subsequently lost its E Japanisches Palais
military importance and was Palaisplatz II. Tel (0351) 81 44 08 41.
transformed into magnificent Museum für Völkerkunde (Museum
gardens by the diplomat and of Ethnography): Open 10am– 6pm
patron of arts Heinrich von Tue–Sun. Landesmuseum für
Brühl, after whom it is named. Vorgeschichte (State Museum of
Offering splendid views over Prehistory): Open 10am–6pm
the River Elbe, it was known as Tue–Sun. Senckenberg
Naturhistorische Sammlungen:
“the balcony of Europe”. There Open 10am–6pm Tue–Sun. The Baroque Schloß Pillnitz, Augustus the Strong’s summer residence
are several great buildings on Wasserpalais: Open May–Oct:
the terraces – the first one, seen Originally the Dutch Palais, this Cosel, Brühl) are set during the 10am–6pm Wed–Mon.
from Schloßplatz, is the Neo- three­wing structure was built time of Augustus the Strong.
Renaissance Landtag (parliament in 1715. It was extended in 1729– This charming summer residence,
building); next to it is a small Two Women on Tahiti, Paul Gauguin, 1892, in the Albertinum 31, by Zacharias Longuelune, for Y Großer Garten on the banks of the Elbe, was
Neo-Baroque building, the Augustus the Strong’s Japanese City centre. built in 1720–23 by Augustus the
Secundogenitur library built century, contains paintings P Goldener Reiter porcelain collection, at which The history of this great garden Strong and designed by Matthäus
for the second generation of from the 19th and 20th Neustädter Markt. time the palace changed its goes back to the 17th century, Daniel Pöppelmann. There are
Brühls, now a popular café; centuries, including works by The Neustadt (new town), on name. For years the palace served although it has been redesigned two parallel palaces: the Berg­
this is followed by the Kunst­ the German Impressionists the right bank of the Elbe, lost as a library; today it holds several times since. At the park’s palais (mountain palace) and the
akademie (art academy), Lovis Corinth and Max much of its former glory through spectacular exhibitions run by the centre stands an early Baroque Wasserpalais (water palace); the
known as Zitronenpresse (lemon Liebermann, landscapes by destruction in World War II. Visi- above­mentioned museums. palace built in 1678–83 to a latter can be reached by stairs
squeezer) because of its ribbed Caspar David Friedrich, tors may therefore be surprised design by Johann Georg Starcke. directly from the river jetty.
glass dome. Among the statues canvases by the Nazarine group to come across this glistening, P Pfunds Molkerei A miniature railway takes visitors Between 1818 and 1826 the two
and monuments on the terrace of painters and works by gilded equestrian statue of Bautzner Straße 79. Tel (0351) 80 80 to Carolasee, a boating lake. It also palaces were joined by a third
are works by the sculptor Ernst European masters such as Augustus the Strong in the 80. Open 10am–6pm Mon–Sat, stops at the botanical gardens in one, the Neues Palais. Today the
Rietschel, the architect Gottfried Edgar Degas, Paul Gauguin, middle of a square, at the end 10am–3pm Sun. ∑ pfunds.de the northwest section of the park, Bergpalais houses a fascinating
Semper and the painter Caspar Vincent van Gogh, Édouard of the plane tree- In the 19th­century part of the and at the zoo. The Mosaik­ museum of decorative art. The
David Friedrich. Manet and Claude Monet. lined Hauptstraße. Neustadt, with its many bars, brunnen (mosaic fountain) main attraction, however, is the
The Albertinum’s other The monument, galleries, pubs and fringe theatres, nearby was designed by Hans park, laid out in English and
P Albertinum collection, the Skulp­ which was erected stands this old dairy founded by Poelzig and built in 1926. Chinese styles, with an orangery
Brühlsche Terrasse. Tel (0351) 491 45 90. turen sammlung, is a in 1736, is the Paul Pfund. Its interior is lined with and pavilions.
Galerie Neue Meister. Open 10am–6pm small collection of work of Jean dazzling, multi­coloured tiles, P Blaues Wunder
Tue–Sun. ∑ skd.museum sculptures, Joseph Vinache, showing Neo­Renaissance motifs Loschwitz/Blasewitzer Brücke. E Karl-May-Museum
Originally a royal arsenal, the including court sculptor relating to the dairy’s products. The suspension bridge which Radebeul, Karl­May­Straße 5. Tel
Albertinum was rebuilt in its remarkable late to Augustus. Today there is a shop which offers spans the River Elbe in the eastern (0351) 837 30 10. Open Mar–Oct:
current Neo-Renaissance style Baroque and hundreds of dairy products, as part of the town is painted blue 9am–6pm; Nov–Feb: 10am–4pm
in the 1880s by Carl Adolf early Rococo works by The Goldener Reiter in P Neues Rathaus well as a small bar, where visitors and nicknamed “blue wonder”. Tue–Sun. Closed 1 Jan, 24, 25, 31 Dec.
Canzler. Forty years earlier, Balthasar Permoser. the new town Dr-Külz-Ring. can sample the specialities. Built in 1891–3, its main span Radebeul, 5 km (3 miles)
Bernhard von Lindenau had The giant Neo- is 141.5 m (464 ft) long. The northwest of Dresden, is much
donated his considerable R Kreuzkirche Renaissance new town hall, in E Kraszewski-Museum bridge leads to Loschwitz, a visited by the fans of Winnetou,
fortune to the city to set up a An der Kreuzkirche 6. Tel (0351) 439 the southwest of the old town, Nordstraße 28. Tel (0351) 804 44 50. neighbourhood in a picturesque a fictional Indian chief, and his
collection of contemporary art, 39 20. Open Summer: 10am–6pm was erected in 1905–1910. Its Open 1–6pm Wed–Sun. location amidst hills, which has friend Old Shatterhand. A
which was then displayed in the Mon–Fri; winter: 10am–4pm Mon–Fri. round tower (70 m/230 ft), This small museum is devoted to many attractive villas and small museum is devo ted to the life
Albertinum. Today, the building Tower: 10am–5pm daily. crowned with a gilded statue of the life of the Polish writer Józef palaces built in the 19th century. and work of the author, Karl
houses two magnificent The present Baroque/Neo- Hercules, offers a good view of Ignacy Kraszewski who, having May, who lived and died in
collections. That of the Galerie Classical church was built the old city centre. In the foyer escaped arrest in Warsaw, settled P Schloß Pillnitz Radebeul. It also displays May’s
Neue Meister, which was in 1764–92 to a design by is a large model of the city as in Dresden in 1853. Inspired by Tel (0351) 261 30. large collection of Native
established in the mid-19th Johann Georg Schmidt. To planned for 2015. the town’s history, several of his Kunstgewerbemuseum Bergpalais: American costumes and
commemorate the novels (for example Hrabina Open May–Oct: 10am–6pm Tue–Sun. other items.
shelling in World E Museum für Sächsische
War II, the interior Volkskunst (Jägerhof)
has not been fully Köpckestr. 1. Tel (0351) 49 14 20 00.
restored. The Cross Open 10am–6pm Tue–Sun.
of Nails from the This Renaissance hunting lodge
ruins of Coventry on the north bank of the Elbe
Cathedral in England was built between 1568 and
creates a powerful 1613. Its west wing – the only
symbolic link part that escaped destruction –
between the now houses a museum of
Secundogenitur library on Brühlsche Terrasse two countries. ethnography with collections The suspension bridge across the Elbe river, nicknamed “Blaues Wunder”
Moritzburg Castle and its reflected façade, Saxony For hotels and restaurants in this area see p494 and pp514–16



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Eyewitness Travel LAYERS PRINTED:
Catalogue template “UK” LAYER
(Source v2.2)
Date 15th January 2013
Size 125mm x 217mm

DRESDEN  177


of Saxon culture and
traditions, especially from the
Erzgebirge Mountains.
E Japanisches Palais
Palaisplatz II. Tel (0351) 81 44 08 41.
Museum für Völkerkunde (Museum
of Ethnography): Open 10am– 6pm
Tue–Sun. Landesmuseum für
Vorgeschichte (State Museum of
Prehistory): Open 10am–6pm
Tue–Sun. Senckenberg
Naturhistorische Sammlungen: The Baroque Schloß Pillnitz, Augustus the Strong’s summer residence
Open 10am–6pm Tue–Sun.
Wasserpalais: Open May–Oct:
Originally the Dutch Palais, this Cosel, Brühl) are set during the 10am–6pm Wed–Mon.
three­wing structure was built time of Augustus the Strong.
in 1715. It was extended in 1729– This charming summer residence,
31, by Zacharias Longuelune, for Y Großer Garten on the banks of the Elbe, was
Augustus the Strong’s Japanese City centre. built in 1720–23 by Augustus the
porcelain collection, at which The history of this great garden Strong and designed by Matthäus
time the palace changed its goes back to the 17th century, Daniel Pöppelmann. There are
name. For years the palace served although it has been redesigned two parallel palaces: the Berg­
as a library; today it holds several times since. At the park’s palais (mountain palace) and the
spectacular exhibitions run by the centre stands an early Baroque Wasserpalais (water palace); the
above­mentioned museums. palace built in 1678–83 to a latter can be reached by stairs
design by Johann Georg Starcke. directly from the river jetty.
P Pfunds Molkerei A miniature railway takes visitors Between 1818 and 1826 the two
Bautzner Straße 79. Tel (0351) 80 80 to Carolasee, a boating lake. It also palaces were joined by a third
80. Open 10am–6pm Mon–Sat, stops at the botanical gardens in one, the Neues Palais. Today the
10am–3pm Sun. ∑ pfunds.de the northwest section of the park, Bergpalais houses a fascinating
In the 19th­century part of the and at the zoo. The Mosaik­ museum of decorative art. The
Neustadt, with its many bars, brunnen (mosaic fountain) main attraction, however, is the
galleries, pubs and fringe theatres, nearby was designed by Hans park, laid out in English and
stands this old dairy founded by Poelzig and built in 1926. Chinese styles, with an orangery
Paul Pfund. Its interior is lined with and pavilions.
dazzling, multi­coloured tiles, P Blaues Wunder
showing Neo­Renaissance motifs Loschwitz/Blasewitzer Brücke. E Karl-May-Museum
relating to the dairy’s products. The suspension bridge which Radebeul, Karl­May­Straße 5. Tel
Today there is a shop which offers spans the River Elbe in the eastern (0351) 837 30 10. Open Mar–Oct:
hundreds of dairy products, as part of the town is painted blue 9am–6pm; Nov–Feb: 10am–4pm
well as a small bar, where visitors and nicknamed “blue wonder”. Tue–Sun. Closed 1 Jan, 24, 25, 31 Dec.
can sample the specialities. Built in 1891–3, its main span Radebeul, 5 km (3 miles)
is 141.5 m (464 ft) long. The northwest of Dresden, is much
E Kraszewski-Museum bridge leads to Loschwitz, a visited by the fans of Winnetou,
Nordstraße 28. Tel (0351) 804 44 50. neighbourhood in a picturesque a fictional Indian chief, and his
Open 1–6pm Wed–Sun. location amidst hills, which has friend Old Shatterhand. A
This small museum is devoted to many attractive villas and small museum is devo ted to the life
the life of the Polish writer Józef palaces built in the 19th century. and work of the author, Karl
Ignacy Kraszewski who, having May, who lived and died in
escaped arrest in Warsaw, settled P Schloß Pillnitz Radebeul. It also displays May’s
in Dresden in 1853. Inspired by Tel (0351) 261 30. large collection of Native
the town’s history, several of his Kunstgewerbemuseum Bergpalais: American costumes and
novels (for example Hrabina Open May–Oct: 10am–6pm Tue–Sun. other items.










The suspension bridge across the Elbe river, nicknamed “Blaues Wunder”
For hotels and restaurants in this area see p494 and pp514–16



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178  EASTERN GERM AN Y DRESDEN  179

The Zwinger Mathematisch- VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
Physikalischer Salon
The most famous building in Dresden is the A valuable collection of Practical Information
scientific instruments,
Zwinger, a beautiful Baroque structure. Its clocks, sextants and Wallpavillon Sophienstraße/Ostra-Allee/
name means “intramural”, and it was built in the globes, including a A stunning marriage Theaterplatz. Porzellansammlung:
Tel (0351) 491 46612.
space between the former town fortifications. 13th-century Arabic of architecture and Open 10am–6pm Tue–Sun.
Commissioned by Augustus the Strong, it was globe of the sky. sculpture, this Baroque Mathematisch-Physikalischer
construc ted in 1709–32 to a design by Matthäus masterpiece is crowned Salon: Tel 491 46661.
by a statue of Hercules,
Daniel Pöppelmann, with the help of the sculptor symbolizing the Elector, Open 10am–6pm Tue–Sun.
∑ skd.museum
Balthasar Permoser. Its spacious courtyard, Augustus the Strong.
once used to stage tournaments, festivals and
firework displays, is completely surrounded by
galleries into which are set pavilions and gates.
Today it houses several art collections.


















Galerie Alte Meister
Kronentor This gallery of old masters occupies
This gate owes its name the wing which was added by
(crown gate) to the Gottfried Semper (see pp180–81).
crown positioned on
top of its dome.



Main entrance






KEY
1 Glockenspielpavillon was
formerly known as Stadtpavillon
(town pavilion). However, the name . Porzellansammlung
was changed to carillon pavilion The porcelain collection holds
when it acquired a carillon with Japanese and Chinese pieces
Meissen porcelain bells, in 1924–36. but its centrepiece is a
2 Allegorical figures crown collection of Meissen
the balustrades. por celain, including parts of
the stunning Swan Service . Nymphenbad
3 Courtyard made for Heinrich Brühl, to a This fountain features tritons and nymphs, sculptures, and grottoes,
design by Joachim Kaendler. which were popular in the Baroque era.
For hotels and restaurants in this area see pp494 and pp514–16


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DRESDEN  179


VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
Practical Information
Sophienstraße/Ostra-Allee/
Wallpavillon Theaterplatz. Porzellansammlung:
A stunning marriage Tel (0351) 491 46612.
of architecture and Open 10am–6pm Tue–Sun.
sculpture, this Baroque Mathematisch-Physikalischer
masterpiece is crowned Salon: Tel 491 46661.
by a statue of Hercules, Open 10am–6pm Tue–Sun.
symbolizing the Elector, ∑ skd.museum
Augustus the Strong.
























Galerie Alte Meister
This gallery of old masters occupies
the wing which was added by
Gottfried Semper (see pp180–81).























. Nymphenbad
This fountain features tritons and nymphs, sculptures, and grottoes,
which were popular in the Baroque era.




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180  EASTERN GERM AN Y DRESDEN  181

Gemäldegalerie Alte Meister Girl Reading a Letter VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
(around 1659) This exquisite
painting, of a lone woman by the
The Dresden gallery of old masters contains what is considered window reading a letter, is among Practical Information
to be one of Europe’s finest art collections. Its core consists of the finest works by Jan Vermeer Theaterplatz 1. Tel (0351) 491
the canvases collected by the Wettin family from the 16th van Delft. 46679. Open 10am–6pm Tue–Sun;
limited access during works. d
century, but the majority of exhibits were purchased at the m = & ^ ∑ skd.museum
order of King Augustus II the Strong and his son Augustus III.
It was during that time that the gallery was moved to its own 2nd floor
premises – first to the Johanneum and later to its present
home in the Zwinger, built by Gottfried Semper in 1847–55.
Gallery Guide
Until 2018, during an overhaul of the gallery building, there
will be an interim presentation of about 400 paintings in the
eastern wing of the building. The areas shown in the key below
are not relevant during the restoration, but all of the paintings Feast of Love (around 1717)
are on display in the eastern wing. 1st floor The so-called fête galante is one
Dresden of many splendid paintings by
landscapes and Antoine Watteau, depicting a
portraits flirtatious group in a park.
Tribute Money (around 1516)
Titian depicts the theme of this
popular New Testament
parable in an unusual way,
zooming in on the figures of
Christ and a Pharisee who
Miniatures shows him a coin.

Ground
floor


Portrait of a Man (around 1633)
This highly expressive portrait, by
Diego Rodríguez de Silva y Velázquez,
remained unfinished, yet it still
captivates with its powerful imagery.
Madonna and Infant Triptych (1437)
This superb small triptych depicting the Virgin Mary
Key with the Holy Infant, St Catherine and the Archangel
St Michael, is one of very few works signed by its
15th–17th-century Italian painting
creator, Jan van Eyck.
15th–16th-century German painting
Canaletto and scenes of Dresden
17th-century Dutch and
Flemish painting
17th-century French painting
Spanish painting
18th-century Italian and
French painting
German, Czech, Austrian, English Tapestry
and Swiss painting
room
Non-exhibition space
Main entrance . Sistine Madonna (1512/13)
. Self-Portrait with Saskia This enchanting picture of the Sleeping Venus (around 1508–10)
(around 1635) This magnificent painting Madonna and Child by Raphael This famous nude was probably painted
depicting Rembrandt with his wife, Saskia, owes its name to St Sixtus’s by Giorgione, but when he died of the
is considered by some to be a represent- Underground church in Piacenza, for which plague in 1510, his friend, Titian,
ation of the Prodigal Son of the Bible. vaults Pope Julius II had commissioned it. completed the work.
For hotels and restaurants in this area see pp494 and pp514–16


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DRESDEN  181

Girl Reading a Letter
(around 1659) This exquisite VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
painting, of a lone woman by the
window reading a letter, is among Practical Information
the finest works by Jan Vermeer Theaterplatz 1. Tel (0351) 491
van Delft. 46679. Open 10am–6pm Tue–Sun;
limited access during works. d
m = & ^ ∑ skd.museum










Feast of Love (around 1717)
The so-called fête galante is one
of many splendid paintings by
Antoine Watteau, depicting a
flirtatious group in a park.
Tribute Money (around 1516)
Titian depicts the theme of this
popular New Testament
parable in an unusual way,
zooming in on the figures of
Christ and a Pharisee who
Miniatures shows him a coin.











Madonna and Infant Triptych (1437)
This superb small triptych depicting the Virgin Mary
with the Holy Infant, St Catherine and the Archangel
St Michael, is one of very few works signed by its
creator, Jan van Eyck.








Tapestry
room


. Sistine Madonna (1512/13)
This enchanting picture of the Sleeping Venus (around 1508–10)
Madonna and Child by Raphael This famous nude was probably painted
owes its name to St Sixtus’s by Giorgione, but when he died of the
Underground church in Piacenza, for which plague in 1510, his friend, Titian,
vaults Pope Julius II had commissioned it. completed the work.




180-181_EW_Germany.indd 181 09/10/17 12:59 pm

182  EASTERN GERM AN Y SA X ON Y  183


e Sächsische Schweiz 2 Festung Königstein
This powerful fortress was built in the second
Saxon Switzerland, the wonderfully wild region around the half of the 16th century on the site of a
gorge cut into the Lusatian mountains by the River Elbe, medieval castle, and altered in subsequent
centuries. Spectacular views have made it a
features stunningly bizarre rock formations and several popular tourist destination.
formidable castles. The best way to explore the area is on foot
as many places are inaccessible to cars. Alternatively you can 3 Lilienstein
admire the spectacular scenery from a boat, on the Elbe. This tall rock, which has to
be climbed on foot, rewards
the visitor with splendid
1 Großsedlitz This vast Bautzen views of Festung Königstein.
Baroque park, established after Bischofswerda
1719 to a design by Johann
Christoph Knöffel, continues
to delight visitors to this day
Market square with Renaissance Rathaus with its flower beds and
(town hall) in Pirna numerous sculptures. Gr. Röder
w Pirna
Road map F4. * 38,000. £ @
n Am Markt 7 (03501-55 64 47).
_ Stadtfest (Jun). ∑ pirna.de
In the old town, on the banks
of the River Elbe, Pirna has
preserved an amazingly regular,
chequerboard pattern of streets. 4 Burg Hohnstein
Time has been kind to the many The castle, which holds
historic buildings in this town. DürröhrsdorfDürröhrsdorf within its walls a
Its greatest attraction is the Polenz medieval building, is
Marienkirche, a late-Gothic now a museum and one
hall-church with fanciful of Germany’s largest
vaulting designed by Peter youth hostels.
Ulrich von Pirna and painted E L B S A N D S T E I N
E L B S A N D S T E I N - -
by Jobst Dorndorff, in 1545–6.
Inside, an original late-Gothic G E B I R G E
font and a Renaissance main Heidenau
altar can be seen. Dürröhrsdorf
Other interesting buildings Pirna Elba Rathen
Elba
are the mid-16th century 7 Stolpen The 35-year-old
Rat haus (town hall) with its Countess Cosel, one of
Gothic portals, the beautiful Augustus II the Strong’s Weißig
houses in the town square mistresses, was imprisoned
and the ex-Dominican, Gothic in this castle, built on rock. JJ
church of St Heinrich. Schloß Elba 5 Bad Schandau A small spa that is
Sonnenstein, extended during popular as a base for walking tours
the 17th and 18th centuries, Gottleuba into the surrounding mountains. A
towers above the old town. small railway, the Kirnitzschtalbahn,
JJ Schmilka takes visitors to a scenic waterfall, the
Environs Lichtenhainer Wasserfall.
10 km (6 miles) southwest of
Pirna is the picturesque Schloß
S A C H S I S C H E S C H W E I Z
Weesenstein, much altered S A C H S I S C H E S C H W E I Z
from its Gothic origins until the Tips for Visitors
19th century. It houses a small 6 Bastei The Length of tour: 41 km (25 miles).
museum with an interesting “bastion” comprises Teplice Stopping places: inns and
collection of wallpapers. so-called inselbergs – Key restaurants in every town.
bizarre, tall rock Tour route Suggestions: walk from the
+ Museum Schloß Weesenstein formations that rise railway at the Lichtenhainer
Müglitztal, Am Schloßberg 1. abruptly. Connected 0 km 4 Road Waterfalls to the Kuhstall (cow
Tel (035027) 6260. Open Apr–Oct: by foot-bridges, they Scenic route stable) and Barbarine needle rocks.
9am–6pm; Nov–Mar: 10am–5pm offer splendid views. 0 miles 4
Tue–Sun.
For hotels and restaurants in this area see p494 and pp514–16 For map symbols see back flap


182-183_EW_Germany.indd 182 09/10/17 12:49 pm 182-183_EW_Germany.indd 183 09/10/17 12:49 pm

SA X ON Y  183



2 Festung Königstein
This powerful fortress was built in the second
half of the 16th century on the site of a
medieval castle, and altered in subsequent
centuries. Spectacular views have made it a
popular tourist destination.
3 Lilienstein
This tall rock, which has to
be climbed on foot, rewards
the visitor with splendid
Bautzen views of Festung Königstein.
Bischofswerda


Gr. Röder








4 Burg Hohnstein
The castle, which holds
within its walls a
Polenz medieval building, is
Dürröhrsdorf
now a museum and one
of Germany’s largest
youth hostels.
E L B S A N D S T E I N -
G E B I R G E
Dürröhrsdorf
Elba Rathen

Weißig
J
Elba
5 Bad Schandau A small spa that is
popular as a base for walking tours
into the surrounding mountains. A
small railway, the Kirnitzschtalbahn,
J takes visitors to a scenic waterfall, the
Schmilka Lichtenhainer Wasserfall.
S A C H S I S C H E S C H W E I Z Tips for Visitors


Length of tour: 41 km (25 miles).
Stopping places: inns and
Key restaurants in every town.
Tour route Suggestions: walk from the
railway at the Lichtenhainer
Road
0 km 4 Waterfalls to the Kuhstall (cow
Scenic route stable) and Barbarine needle rocks.
0 miles 4
For map symbols see back flap


182-183_EW_Germany.indd 183 09/10/17 12:49 pm

184  EASTERN GERM AN Y SA X ON Y  185


climbing the 15th-century of churches in Jerusalem. Görlitz Zittau Mountains, a paradise
Alte Wasser kunst, a tower that still has remains of its medieval for rock-climbers, walkers and
pumped Spree water up to the town fortifications with original nature lovers. The town itself is
town. It is the symbol of Bautzen towers and gates, including the splendidly preserved, with many
and offers splendid views. Kaisertrutz, a 15th-century historic buildings, such as the
The cathedral Dom St Peter barbican, extended in the 19th beautiful, Baroque Noacksches
is now used jointly by Catholics century and now home to the Haus (Markt 2). The Neo-
(choir) and Protestants (nave). town’s art collection. Renaissance Rathaus (town
The late-Gothic Schloß hall) was built in 1840–45,
Ortenburg houses the Environs to a design by Carl Augustus
Sorbisches Museum, devoted The small town of Ostritz, Schramm. The Johanniskirche,
to Sorbian history and culture. 16 km (10 miles) to the south, by Karl Friedrich Schinkel,
has a charming original combines elements of Neo-
E Sorbisches Museum Cistercian abbey, St Marien thal Classical and Neo-Gothic styles
Ortenburg 3. Tel (03591) 42 403. (1230). Its red-and-white build- and is an excellent example of
Open Apr–Oct: 10am–5pm Tue–Sun; ings are to this day inhabited by Historicist architecture.
Nov–Mar: 10am–4pm Tue–Sun. Baroque Neptune fountain in Untermarkt, nuns, who show visitors around
in Görlitz and serve food and home- Environs
brewed beer. The charming spa town of
Gothic altar from 1513 in St Annen church, in Kamenz u Görlitz Oybin, 9 km (6 miles) south
of Zittau, can be reached by
r Kamenz t Bautzen Road map F4. * 66,000. £ @ i Zittau
n Obermarkt 32 (03581-475 70). narrow-gauge railway. Its
Road map F4. * 16,800. £ @ Road map F4. * 44,000. £ @ _ Kultursommer (May–Sep); Road map F4. * 28,000. £ @ attractions include the hilltop
n Schulplatz 5 (03578 379 205). _ n Hauptmarkt 1 (03591-4 20 16). Sommertheater (Jul); Strassen theater- n Markt 1 (03583-75 22 00). ruins of a Gothic abbey,
Hutbergfest (May). ∑ kamenz.de _ Vogelhochzeit (Jan); Lausitzer festival (Aug). ∑ goerlitz.de _ Klosterfest (Ascension) (May); Fest immortalized by Caspar David
Fischwochen (Oct). ∑ bautzen.de am Dreiländereck (Jun); Stadtfest (Jul). Friedrich. It is worth timing your
The best time for a visit to Kamenz This border town, whose eastern ∑ zittau.eu visit for a Saturday evening in
is the end of May or June, when This town is scenically situated part, Zgorzelec, has belonged summer, when you can witness
the rhododendrons that cover on a high rock overhanging the to Poland since 1945, boasts a Zittau is an excellent starting the procession of torch-bearing
the Hutberg (294 m/965 ft high) Spree River valley. Known long history. Its oldest records point for excursions into the monks or listen to a concert.
are in flower. The poet, Gotthold mainly for its top-security jail date back to 1071. Founded in
Ephraim Lessing, was born in for political prisoners during 1210–20, the town flourished
Kamenz in 1729. Although his the GDR era, today it enchants in the 15th and 16th centuries.
house no longer exists, the visitors with its beautifully In 1990 an extensive restoration
Lessingmuseum, founded in reconstructed old town. Many plan was begun, and now visit-
1929, is devoted to his work. signs are bilingual, German and Doorway of the Neo-Renaissance palace in ors can see its historic buildings
A great fire destroyed much Sorbian, reflecting the fact that Bad Muskau in their former glory.
of the town in 1842, but it Bautzen is the cultural capital of The charming houses in
spared the late-Gothic St Marien the Sorbs. The winding streets y Bad Muskau Obermarkt (upper market),
church, a four-nave 15th- with their ori ginal houses, the Road map F4. * 4,170. @ the Renaissance portals and
century structure with Gothic city walls, the curiously crooked n Schloßstraße 6 (035771-504 92). decorations on houses in
altars and other interesting Reichen turm tower and the ∑ badmuskau.de Brüderstraße and the fasci nating
features. Equally noteworthy Baroque town hall in the town Untermarkt (lower market),
for their furnishings are the square form a very attractive Bad Muskau, a small town and with its vast town hall complex,
Gothic ex-Franciscan complex. It is also worth spa, boasts one of Saxony’s enchant everyone. The older
St Annen church and most beautiful parks, which has wing of the town hall, the work
the unusual hall-church been included in the UNESCO of Wendel Roskopf, has an Fountain with a statue of Roland, the French knight, in Zittau
Katechismuskirche. Cultural Heritage list. It was amazing external staircase with
Originally part of the created in 1815–45 by the writer Renaissance ornaments, and The Sorbs
town’s fortification system, Prince Hermann von Pückler- winds around the statue of Justice.
it has a row of loopholes Muskau. The Neo-Renaissance One of the most remarkable The Sorbs, also known as the
on its upper storey. The palace at its centre was churches is the imposing five- Lusatians or Wends, are an
old cemetery and the destroyed in World War II and nave, 15th-century Haupt­ indigenous Slav minority who live
Gothic funereal church reopened after reconstruction stadtpfarrkirche St Peter und in the eastern regions of Saxony
and Brandenburg. Their ancestors,
Begräbniskirche St Just in 2008. The English-style St Paul whose Baroque furnish- the Lusatian Slavs, were conquered
are also worth a visit. landscaped park surrounding it, ings are among the finest in by Germans in the 10th century.
As is the Museum der a nature reserve since 1952, is Saxony. Also noteworthy is the Although condemned to exter-
Westlausitz, a museum well worth visiting. Its main Oberkirche, with an original mination by the National Socialists,
of the local region. part, on the northern shores of Gothic main altar and 15th- today they enjoy complete
the Lusatian Neisse River, is in century wall paintings in the side cultural autonomy. The revival
E Lessingmuseum Poland. A joint Polish-German nave. One of Görlitz’s curiosities of their language and traditions
Lessingplatz 1–3. Tel (03578) programme has opened the is the Heiliges Grab (Holy tomb), is apparent in the bilingual signs
380 50. Open 9am–5pm Tue–Fri, Impressive Baroque entrance to the Domstift entire area to visitors from both built in 1481–1504, a group of in towns.
1pm–5pm Sat & Sun. in Bautzen sides of the border. three chapels that are replicas
For hotels and restaurants in this area see p494 and pp514–16


184-185_EW_Germany.indd 184 09/10/17 12:59 pm 184-185_EW_Germany.indd 185 09/10/17 12:59 pm
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(Source v2.2)
Date 15th January 2013
Size 125mm x 217mm

SA X ON Y  185


of churches in Jerusalem. Görlitz Zittau Mountains, a paradise
still has remains of its medieval for rock-climbers, walkers and
town fortifications with original nature lovers. The town itself is
towers and gates, including the splendidly preserved, with many
Kaisertrutz, a 15th-century historic buildings, such as the
barbican, extended in the 19th beautiful, Baroque Noacksches
century and now home to the Haus (Markt 2). The Neo-
town’s art collection. Renaissance Rathaus (town
hall) was built in 1840–45,
Environs to a design by Carl Augustus
The small town of Ostritz, Schramm. The Johanniskirche,
16 km (10 miles) to the south, by Karl Friedrich Schinkel,
has a charming original combines elements of Neo-
Cistercian abbey, St Marien thal Classical and Neo-Gothic styles
(1230). Its red-and-white build- and is an excellent example of
ings are to this day inhabited by Historicist architecture.
Baroque Neptune fountain in Untermarkt, nuns, who show visitors around
in Görlitz and serve food and home- Environs
brewed beer. The charming spa town of
u Görlitz Oybin, 9 km (6 miles) south
of Zittau, can be reached by
Road map F4. * 66,000. £ @ i Zittau
n Obermarkt 32 (03581-475 70). narrow-gauge railway. Its
_ Kultursommer (May–Sep); Road map F4. * 28,000. £ @ attractions include the hilltop
Sommertheater (Jul); Strassen theater- n Markt 1 (03583-75 22 00). ruins of a Gothic abbey,
festival (Aug). ∑ goerlitz.de _ Klosterfest (Ascension) (May); Fest immortalized by Caspar David
am Dreiländereck (Jun); Stadtfest (Jul). Friedrich. It is worth timing your
This border town, whose eastern ∑ zittau.eu visit for a Saturday evening in
part, Zgorzelec, has belonged summer, when you can witness
to Poland since 1945, boasts a Zittau is an excellent starting the procession of torch-bearing
long history. Its oldest records point for excursions into the monks or listen to a concert.
date back to 1071. Founded in
1210–20, the town flourished
in the 15th and 16th centuries.
In 1990 an extensive restoration
plan was begun, and now visit-
ors can see its historic buildings
in their former glory.
The charming houses in
Obermarkt (upper market),
the Renaissance portals and
decorations on houses in
Brüderstraße and the fasci nating
Untermarkt (lower market),
with its vast town hall complex,
enchant everyone. The older
wing of the town hall, the work
of Wendel Roskopf, has an Fountain with a statue of Roland, the French knight, in Zittau
amazing external staircase with
Renaissance ornaments, and The Sorbs
winds around the statue of Justice.
One of the most remarkable The Sorbs, also known as the
churches is the imposing five- Lusatians or Wends, are an
nave, 15th-century Haupt­ indigenous Slav minority who live
stadtpfarrkirche St Peter und in the eastern regions of Saxony
and Brandenburg. Their ancestors,
St Paul whose Baroque furnish- the Lusatian Slavs, were conquered
ings are among the finest in by Germans in the 10th century.
Saxony. Also noteworthy is the Although condemned to exter-
Oberkirche, with an original mination by the National Socialists,
Gothic main altar and 15th- today they enjoy complete
century wall paintings in the side cultural autonomy. The revival
nave. One of Görlitz’s curiosities of their language and traditions
is the Heiliges Grab (Holy tomb), is apparent in the bilingual signs
built in 1481–1504, a group of in towns.
three chapels that are replicas




184-185_EW_Germany.indd 185 09/10/17 12:59 pm

EASTERN GERM AN Y  187

THURINGIA


Thuringia is a beautiful state, with much to entice the visitor.
The Thuringian Forest, in the south, is a highland area densely
covered with spruce, beech and oak forests, inviting visitors to
ramble along its enchanted trails, while the area’s medieval
abbeys, castles and charming small towns are popular
destinations with those who are interested in art and history.

The Kingdom of Thuring, as it was known After World War II, Thuringia was initially
in the 5th century, was conquered by occupied by the US Army, but it soon
the Franks in the following century. The passed into the Soviet sphere of influence,
demise of the Thuringian landgraves, and in 1949 it became part of the GDR.
who had ruled here for hundreds of years, In 1952 Thuringia lost its status as a
resulted in the outbreak of the Thuringian federal state, but this was later restored in
War of Secession. It ended in 1264, with the reunited Federal Republic of Germany,
most of Thuringia falling into the hands in 1990.
of the Wettin dynasty. The majority of tourist attractions can
Split into several smaller principalities, be found in the southern part of the state.
the region lost its political might, but, The Thuringian Forest has many popular
driven by the ambitions of many of its health resorts and wintersport centres,
rulers, magnificent castles, churches and such as Oberhof. This highland area,
abbeys were built everywhere. Thanks cut with deep river gullies, is littered
to enlightened royal sponsors many with medieval castles built on steep
towns became important cultural centres, crags. Many of these are now no more
such as 18th-century Weimar, whose than picturesque ruins, but others, such
residents at one time included Johann as the Wartburg, have been completely
Wolfgang von Goethe, Fried rich Schiller, restored to their former glory, and
Johann Gottfried Herder and Christoph today delight visitors with their
Martin Wieland. magnificent interiors.

























Schloß Belvedere, the royal summer residence in Weimar
A stream running through the beautiful Thüringer Wald (Thuringian Forest)



186-187_EW_Germany.indd 186 09/10/17 12:59 pm 186-187_EW_Germany.indd 187 09/10/17 12:59 pm
Eyewitness Travel LAYERS PRINTED:
Portrait template “UK” LAYER
(SourceReport v1.2)
Date 5th December 2012
Size 125mm x 217mm

EASTERN GERM AN Y  187

THURINGIA


Thuringia is a beautiful state, with much to entice the visitor.
The Thuringian Forest, in the south, is a highland area densely
covered with spruce, beech and oak forests, inviting visitors to
ramble along its enchanted trails, while the area’s medieval
abbeys, castles and charming small towns are popular
destinations with those who are interested in art and history.

The Kingdom of Thuring, as it was known After World War II, Thuringia was initially
in the 5th century, was conquered by occupied by the US Army, but it soon
the Franks in the following century. The passed into the Soviet sphere of influence,
demise of the Thuringian landgraves, and in 1949 it became part of the GDR.
who had ruled here for hundreds of years, In 1952 Thuringia lost its status as a
resulted in the outbreak of the Thuringian federal state, but this was later restored in
War of Secession. It ended in 1264, with the reunited Federal Republic of Germany,
most of Thuringia falling into the hands in 1990.
of the Wettin dynasty. The majority of tourist attractions can
Split into several smaller principalities, be found in the southern part of the state.
the region lost its political might, but, The Thuringian Forest has many popular
driven by the ambitions of many of its health resorts and wintersport centres,
rulers, magnificent castles, churches and such as Oberhof. This highland area,
abbeys were built everywhere. Thanks cut with deep river gullies, is littered
to enlightened royal sponsors many with medieval castles built on steep
towns became important cultural centres, crags. Many of these are now no more
such as 18th-century Weimar, whose than picturesque ruins, but others, such
residents at one time included Johann as the Wartburg, have been completely
Wolfgang von Goethe, Fried rich Schiller, restored to their former glory, and
Johann Gottfried Herder and Christoph today delight visitors with their
Martin Wieland. magnificent interiors.

























Schloß Belvedere, the royal summer residence in Weimar
A stream running through the beautiful Thüringer Wald (Thuringian Forest)



186-187_EW_Germany.indd 187 09/10/17 12:59 pm

188  EASTERN GERM AN Y THURINGIA  189

Exploring Thuringia 0 km 15
0 miles 15
A visit to Thuringia is most enjoyable in late summer, when
the magnificent forests of the Thuringian Mountains are set
ablaze with all the hues of red and yellow as the leaves turn
colour, or in spring when verdant green cloaks the trees.
Allow at least one day to explore Erfurt, the state’s capital city,
with a further two days in Weimar. Eisenach, with its
c h s f e l
magnificent Wartburg castle, is also a must. c h s f e l d d NordhausenNordhausen HalleHalle
i i BleicherodeBleicherode
E E
GöttingenGöttingen KYFFHÄUSER
KYFFHÄUSER
LeinefeldeLeinefelde MOUNTAINS
MOUNTAINS
SONDERSHAUSENSONDERSHAUSEN
HEILIGENSTADTHEILIGENSTADT Bad Bad
FrankenhausenFrankenhausen
H a i n l e i t
The fields near Meiningen, in the Thuringian Forest
H a i n l e i t e e
H
H
GreussenGreussen
a
a
MÜHLHAUSENMÜHLHAUSEN
i i
n
n
BadBad
i i Tennstedt Tennstedt SömmerdaSömmerda
c c
h h BadBad
Unstrut
LangensalzaLangensalza Unstrut
THÜRINGIATHÜRINGIA DessauDessau
Apolda
Buchenwald
EISENACHEISENACH Buchenwald Apolda
ERFURTERFURT WEIMARWEIMAR DornburgDornburg ALTENBURGALTENBURG
GOTHAGOTHA
Wutha-FarnrodaWutha-Farnroda Gera Gera JENAJENA
Bad HersfeldBad Hersfeld
MolsdorfMolsdorf RonneburgRonneburg
Drei GleichenDrei Gleichen GERAGERA
Werra
Werra
FriedrichrodaFriedrichroda ArnstadtArnstadt Saale Saale
Bad LiebensteinBad Liebenstein KahlaKahla
Ilm
Ilm ChemnitzChemnitz
NeustadtNeustadt WeidaWeida
Street vendor selling hand-painted RUDOLSTADT TriptisTriptis Weisse Elster
RUDOLSTADT
T H Ü R I N G E R W A L D
T H Ü R I N G E R W A L D
Easter eggs in Erfurt SchmalkaldenSchmalkalden OberhofOberhof
KrolpaKrolpa
Weisse Elster
IlmenauIlmenau Key
Zella-MehlisZella-Mehlis UnterwellenbornUnterwellenborn GreizGreiz
SAALFELDSAALFELD Motorway
Sights at a Glance SuhlSuhl Hohenwarte- Major road
Hohenwarte-
1 Eisenach-Wartburg pp190–91 0 Jena MeiningenMeiningen stausee Minor road
stausee
2 Heiligenstadt q Rudolstadt Main railway
Bleiloch-
3 Mühlhausen w Saalfeld Bleiloch- Minor railway
stausee
stausee
4 Sondershausen e Gera
5 Kyffhäuser Mountains r Altenburg HildburghausenHildburghausen Regional border
6 Gotha Walks Werra
Werra
8 Erfurt pp196–7 SchweinfurtSchweinfurt SonnebergSonneberg BayreuthBayreuth
9 Weimar pp198–9 7 Thüringer Wald
(Thuringian Forest)
Getting Around
Erfurt has an airport. The A4 motorway
running through Thuringia links Gera with
Jena, Weimar, Erfurt, Gotha and Eisenach.
Other towns can be reached by local
roads, which are clearly sign posted.
When touring the Thuringian Forest it is
well worth following one of the marked
tourist routes, such as Klassikerstraße (the
route of the classics) or Porzellanstraße
Petersburg fortress in Erfurt (porcelain street). The Renaissance town hall in Gotha
For additional map symbols see back flap
188-189_EW_Germany.indd 188 09/10/17 12:59 pm 188-189_EW_Germany.indd 189 09/10/17 12:59 pm

THURINGIA  189


0 km 15
0 miles 15





c h s f e l d Nordhausen Halle

i Bleicherode
E
Göttingen KYFFHÄUSER
Leinefelde MOUNTAINS
SONDERSHAUSEN
HEILIGENSTADT Bad
Frankenhausen
The fields near Meiningen, in the Thuringian Forest
H a i n l e i t e
H
Greussen
a
MÜHLHAUSEN
i
n
Bad
i Tennstedt Sömmerda
c
h Bad
Langensalza Unstrut
THÜRINGIA Dessau
EISENACH Buchenwald Apolda
ERFURT WEIMAR Dornburg ALTENBURG
GOTHA
Wutha-Farnroda Gera JENA
Bad Hersfeld
Molsdorf Ronneburg
Drei Gleichen GERA
Werra
Friedrichroda Arnstadt Saale
Bad Liebenstein Kahla
Ilm Chemnitz
Neustadt Weida
RUDOLSTADT Triptis Weisse Elster
T H Ü R I N G E R W A L D
Schmalkalden Oberhof
Krolpa
Ilmenau Key
Zella-Mehlis Unterwellenborn Greiz
SAALFELD Motorway
Major road
Meiningen Suhl Hohenwarte-
stausee Minor road
Main railway
Bleiloch-
stausee Minor railway
Regional border
Hildburghausen
Werra
Schweinfurt Sonneberg
Bayreuth
Getting Around
Erfurt has an airport. The A4 motorway
running through Thuringia links Gera with
Jena, Weimar, Erfurt, Gotha and Eisenach.
Other towns can be reached by local
roads, which are clearly sign posted.
When touring the Thuringian Forest it is
well worth following one of the marked
tourist routes, such as Klassikerstraße (the
route of the classics) or Porzellanstraße
(porcelain street). The Renaissance town hall in Gotha
188-189_EW_Germany.indd 189 09/10/17 12:59 pm

190  EASTERN GERM AN Y THURINGIA  191

1 Eisenach – Wartburg VISITORS’ CHECKLIST Exploring Eisenach
The town, at the foot of the
The mighty fortress towering above the town is the legendary Practical Information castle hill, was founded in the
castle which was probably founded by Ludwig the Jumper, in Road map C/D4. * 44,000. n middle of the 12th century
the late 11th century. Reputedly, it was the setting for the Markt 24 (Stadtschloß) (03691-79 and played an important
23-0). _ Thüringer Bachwochen
singing contest immortalized by Wagner in his opera (Mar–Apr). Wartburg: Tel (03691) political role in medieval times.
There are interesting remains
Tannhäuser. Between 1211 and 1228 the castle was the home 25 00; ∑ eisenach.info, of fortifications, dating from
of Saint Elizabeth of Thuringia, and from 4 May 1521 until wartburg.de Open guided tours the late 12th century, which
March 1522 Martin Luther found refuge here while he Apr–Oct: 8.30am–5pm daily (last include a Romanesque gate,
adm: 8pm); Nov–Mar: 9am–
trans lated the New Testament into German. Major 3:30pm daily (last adm: 5pm). the Nikolaitor. The Nikolai kirche
reconstruction in the 19th century gave the castle Vogtei & = m 0 nearby, also Romanesque in
style, once belonged to the
its old-time romantic character. In 1872 this building acquired an Transport
original oriel window (around £ @ Benedictine Sisters. In the
1475), brought here from the market square is a 16th-century
Harsdörffersches House in town hall, and in Lutherplatz
Nuremberg. stands the house where Martin
Luther once lived; it is now a
small museum of his work.
R Predigerkirche
Predigerplatz 4. Tel (03691) 78 46 78.
Open 11am–5pm Tue–Sun. &
This church, built in honour of
Elisabeth von Thüringen shortly
after she had been canonized, is
part of the Thü ringer Museum
Festsaal and has been used for changing
The impressive and ornate Festival Hall extends exhibitions since 1899. It also
over the entire length and width of the . Lutherstube houses a permanent exhibition,
Romanesque Palas. Today, it is the venue The room where Martin Luther “Medi eval Art in Thuringia”.
for a number of events. lived and worked for ten
months is very plainly E Automobile Welt Eisenach
furnished and has simple F. Naumanstraße 10. Tel (03691) 77 21
wood-panelling on the walls. 2. Open 11am–5pm Tue–Sun.
This car museum celebrates
the local car manufacturing
industry in Eisenach. Its
collection includes old BMWs
. Elisabethkemenate and Wartburgs.
The mosaics adorning the
walls of St Elizabeth’s E Bachhaus
rooms illustrate the story
of the saint’s life. They Frauenplan 21. Tel (03691) 7 93 40.
were designed by Open 10am–6pm daily. &
∑ bachaus.de
August Oetken and
placed in 1902–06. Johann Sebastian Bach was
born in Eisenach in 1685.
His birthplace is now
demolished, but this small
museum nearby is devoted
to his life and work.
KEY Landgrafenzimmer
In 1854 the landgraves’
1 Neue Kemenate, the “new chambers in the oldest
chambers”, were added during part of the castle, the
the mid-19th century. Today they Palas, were decorated
house an art collection with with paintings depicting
beautiful sculptures from Tilman the castle’s history, by
Riemenschneider’s workshop. Moritz von Schwind.
2 Bergfried is a vast, square
tower crowned with a cross,
beautifully restored in the Entrance gate
19th-century. The Bachhaus and museum, surrounded
by a garden
For hotels and restaurants in this area see pp494–5 and pp516–17


190-191_EW_Germany.indd 190 09/10/17 12:59 pm 190-191_EW_Germany.indd 191 09/10/17 12:59 pm

THURINGIA  191


VISITORS’ CHECKLIST Exploring Eisenach
The town, at the foot of the
Practical Information castle hill, was founded in the
Road map C/D4. * 44,000. n middle of the 12th century
Markt 24 (Stadtschloß) (03691-79 and played an important
23-0). _ Thüringer Bachwochen political role in medieval times.
(Mar–Apr). Wartburg: Tel (03691) There are interesting remains
25 00; ∑ eisenach.info, of fortifications, dating from
wartburg.de Open guided tours the late 12th century, which
Apr–Oct: 8.30am–5pm daily (last include a Romanesque gate,
adm: 8pm); Nov–Mar: 9am– the Nikolaitor. The Nikolai kirche
3:30pm daily (last adm: 5pm).
Vogtei & = m 0 nearby, also Romanesque in
In 1872 this building acquired an style, once belonged to the
original oriel window (around Transport Benedictine Sisters. In the
£ @
1475), brought here from the market square is a 16th-century
Harsdörffersches House in town hall, and in Lutherplatz
Nuremberg. stands the house where Martin
Luther once lived; it is now a
small museum of his work.
R Predigerkirche
Predigerplatz 4. Tel (03691) 78 46 78.
Open 11am–5pm Tue–Sun. &
This church, built in honour of
Elisabeth von Thüringen shortly
after she had been canonized, is
part of the Thü ringer Museum
and has been used for changing
exhibitions since 1899. It also
. Lutherstube houses a permanent exhibition,
The room where Martin Luther “Medi eval Art in Thuringia”.
lived and worked for ten
months is very plainly E Automobile Welt Eisenach
furnished and has simple F. Naumanstraße 10. Tel (03691) 77 21
wood-panelling on the walls. 2. Open 11am–5pm Tue–Sun.
This car museum celebrates
the local car manufacturing
industry in Eisenach. Its
collection includes old BMWs
and Wartburgs.
E Bachhaus
Frauenplan 21. Tel (03691) 7 93 40.
Open 10am–6pm daily. &
∑ bachaus.de
Johann Sebastian Bach was
born in Eisenach in 1685.
His birthplace is now
demolished, but this small
museum nearby is devoted
to his life and work.










Entrance gate
The Bachhaus and museum, surrounded
by a garden




190-191_EW_Germany.indd 191 09/10/17 12:59 pm

192  EASTERN GERM AN Y THURINGIA  193

2 Heiligenstadt 4 Sondershausen 6 Gotha stands a Neo-Renaissance
building, which was purpose-
Road map C4. * 17,500. £ @ Road map D4. * 23,000. @ Road map D4. * 48,000. £ @ n
n Wilhelmstraße 50 (03606-67 71 n Markt 9 (03632-78 81 11). Hauptmarkt 33 (03621-50 78 57 12). built for the ducal art collection.
41). ∑ heilbad-heiligenstadt.de _ Residenzfest (Jun), Schloßfests piele _ Gothardusfest (May). ∑ gotha.de Now it houses the Museum
(Jul). ∑ sondershausen.de der Natur, a natural history
This pleasant spa and health From 1640 the old commercial museum. The Renaissance town
resort, well placed for visiting Sondershausen was the capital town of Gotha was the capital hall (1567–77) in the old town
the gardens of Eichsfeld, is worth city of the small principality of of Saxe-Gotha and later of is surrounded by a number
an ex tended stop. Heiligenstadt Schwarzburg-Sondershausen. Saxe-Coburg-Gotha Duchy, of interesting houses.
is the birthplace of Tilman The town’s main attraction is the the dynasty from which Prince Gotha played an important
Riemenschneider, an outstanding Schloß (ducal palace), a sprawling Albert, Queen Victoria’s husband, role in the German workers’
sculptor of the Gothic era; it is building built in stages from the descended. The vast ducal movement: the Socialist
also the place where the poet 16th to the 19th century. The palace, Schloß Friedenstein, Workers’ Party (today’s SPD),
and writer Heinrich Heine was palace features some inte resting built in 1643–55, towers above was founded here in 1875.
baptized in 1825, at the age of 28. original interiors. Parti cularly the city. This mighty rectangular The conference hall has
Heiligenstadt has several Part of the well-preserved town walls noteworthy are the Am structure was the first Baroque been reconstructed and
churches worth visiting, surrounding Mühlhausen Wendelstein rooms, decorated Monument to Wilhelm I in the building in Thu ringia. houses the Gedenkstätte
including the Gothic Pfarr kirche with 17th-century stucco Kyffhäuser Mountains Particularly noteworthy are der Deutschen Arbeiter­
St Marien with its original wall 1975, on the 450th anniversary ornaments, as well as the Neo- the ballroom, the palace bewegung (memorial to the
paintings dating from around of the revolt, the town underwent Classical Liebhabertheater 5 Kyffhäuser chapel with the ducal sarco- German workers’ movement).
1500. Not far from the church restoration, and it delights visitors (connoisseurs’ theatre, of around Mountains phagi in the crypt and the
stands the Friedhofskapelle to this day with its beautifully 1835) and the Baroque Riesensaal court theatre, built in 1683. The + Schloß Friedenstein
St Annen, an octagonal Gothic preserved old town surrounded (giants’ hall), a ballroom with Road map D4. n Bad Frankenhausen, palace museum houses an art Tel 03621-8234 51. Open May–Oct:
cemetery chapel. The town’s by city walls, including gates and 16 enormous statues of ancient Anger 14 (034671-71 717). collection including works by 10am–5pm Tue–Sun; Nov–Apr:
most interesting church, towers, which have survived gods. When strolling around the famous artists such as Peter Paul 10am–4pm Tue–Sun.
however, is the Stiftskirche almost intact. palace gardens it is worth looking This small mountain range along Rubens, Anton van Dyck, Frans E Gedenkstätte der Deutschen
St Martin, dating back to the Mühlhausen’s streets are lined at the Karussell, an octagonal the border between Thuringia Hals and Jan van Goyen. The Arbeiterbewegung
14th–15th centuries. It has a with charming timber-frame building dating from 1700. and Saxony-Anhalt is not only palace garden is also worth a Am Tivoli 3. Tel (03621) 70 41 27.
well-preserved Romanesque houses. It is also worth stepping The most interesting Neo- picturesque but is also shrouded visit. To the south of the palace Open only by prior arrangement.
crypt and an amusing Gothic into one of the six Gothic Classical building complex in in legends and associated with
pulpit, made in the shape of a churches in this area. The town can be found around important historic events.
book-holding chorister. Pfarrkirche Divi Blasii, built for Marktplatz (market square). According to one legend, the
the Teutonic Knights, has 14th- Emperor Frederick I Barbarossa
century stained-glass windows in Environs found his final resting place in
3 Mühlhausen the presbytery. The ex-Franciscan In the Hainleite hills, 4.5 km one of the caves. Allegedly,
Barfüßer klosterkirche (on the (3 miles) south of Sonders- he did not drown during the
Road map D4. * 38,000. £ @
n Ratsstraße 20 (03601-40 47 70). Kornmarkt) houses a museum hausen, stands the Jagdschloß Crusades, as histo ric records
_ Mühlhauser Stadtkirmes (Aug). devoted to the Peasants’ War. Zum Possen, once an 18th- would have us believe, but is
∑ muehlhausen.de The huge five-nave 14th-century century hunting lodge, now waiting here, in the company of
Marienkirche, a hall-church, is an inn. The timber-frame six knights. As soon as his beard
Mühlhausen is one of Thuringia’s one of Thuringia’s largest sacral observation tower nearby, is long enough to wind three
older towns, with its earliest buildings. It has a magnificent dating from 1781, affords times around the table, it is said,
records dating back to AD 967. main portal and late-Gothic beautiful views of the district. he will return to save Germany
In medieval times it enjoyed the altars. Another interesting historic Nordhausen, situated 20 km from oppression. On the site of
status of an imperial free town, structure is the Rathaus (town (12 miles) to the north, is the former imperial palace now
which could explain why it hall), in a narrow street between worth visiting for its attractive stands a giant monument with
became the centre of political the old and the new town. This timber-frame houses and its a figure of Barbarossa and an
activities during the 1525 vast complex was enlarged 14th-century cathedral, Dom equestrian statue of Emperor
Peasants’ War, led by Thomas several times, from medieval zum Heiligen Kreuz, with a Wilhelm I – the work of Bruno
Müntzer, a local clergyman. In times until the 18th century. Romanesque crypt. Schmitz, erected in 1891–6.
A small health resort, Bad
Frankenhausen, nestles at the
foot of the mountains. It has a
number of Gothic churches,
including Oberkirche, famed for
its leaning tower, and a Renais-
sance palace, now home to a
small museum. Nearby, on the
Schlachtberg (slaughter moun-
tain), the decisive battle in the
Peasants’ War took place. The
Pavilion Museum there holds
a vast panoramic picture of the
The extensive façade of the ducal palace in Sondershausen battle, painted in 1971–5. Doorway of the Renaissance town hall on the Hauptmarkt, in Gotha
For hotels and restaurants in this area see pp494–5 and pp516–17


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THURINGIA  193

6 Gotha stands a Neo-Renaissance
building, which was purpose-
Road map D4. * 48,000. £ @ n
Hauptmarkt 33 (03621-50 78 57 12). built for the ducal art collection.
_ Gothardusfest (May). ∑ gotha.de Now it houses the Museum
der Natur, a natural history
From 1640 the old commercial museum. The Renaissance town
town of Gotha was the capital hall (1567–77) in the old town
of Saxe-Gotha and later of is surrounded by a number
Saxe-Coburg-Gotha Duchy, of interesting houses.
the dynasty from which Prince Gotha played an important
Albert, Queen Victoria’s husband, role in the German workers’
descended. The vast ducal movement: the Socialist
palace, Schloß Friedenstein, Workers’ Party (today’s SPD),
built in 1643–55, towers above was founded here in 1875.
the city. This mighty rectangular The conference hall has
structure was the first Baroque been reconstructed and
Monument to Wilhelm I in the building in Thu ringia. houses the Gedenkstätte
Kyffhäuser Mountains Particularly noteworthy are der Deutschen Arbeiter­
the ballroom, the palace bewegung (memorial to the
5 Kyffhäuser chapel with the ducal sarco- German workers’ movement).
Mountains phagi in the crypt and the
court theatre, built in 1683. The + Schloß Friedenstein
Road map D4. n Bad Frankenhausen, palace museum houses an art Tel 03621-8234 51. Open May–Oct:
Anger 14 (034671-71 717). collection including works by 10am–5pm Tue–Sun; Nov–Apr:
famous artists such as Peter Paul 10am–4pm Tue–Sun.
This small mountain range along Rubens, Anton van Dyck, Frans E Gedenkstätte der Deutschen
the border between Thuringia Hals and Jan van Goyen. The Arbeiterbewegung
and Saxony-Anhalt is not only palace garden is also worth a Am Tivoli 3. Tel (03621) 70 41 27.
picturesque but is also shrouded visit. To the south of the palace Open only by prior arrangement.
in legends and associated with
important historic events.
According to one legend, the
Emperor Frederick I Barbarossa
found his final resting place in
one of the caves. Allegedly,
he did not drown during the
Crusades, as histo ric records
would have us believe, but is
waiting here, in the company of
six knights. As soon as his beard
is long enough to wind three
times around the table, it is said,
he will return to save Germany
from oppression. On the site of
the former imperial palace now
stands a giant monument with
a figure of Barbarossa and an
equestrian statue of Emperor
Wilhelm I – the work of Bruno
Schmitz, erected in 1891–6.
A small health resort, Bad
Frankenhausen, nestles at the
foot of the mountains. It has a
number of Gothic churches,
including Oberkirche, famed for
its leaning tower, and a Renais-
sance palace, now home to a
small museum. Nearby, on the
Schlachtberg (slaughter moun-
tain), the decisive battle in the
Peasants’ War took place. The
Pavilion Museum there holds
a vast panoramic picture of the
battle, painted in 1971–5. Doorway of the Renaissance town hall on the Hauptmarkt, in Gotha




192-193_EW_Germany.indd 193 09/10/17 12:59 pm

194  EASTERN GERM AN Y THURINGIA  195


7 Thüringer Wald (Thuringian Forest) 2 Trusetal 3 Schmalkalden
The magnificent waterfall This charming little town,
Narrow, winding roads lead through the mountains, which are in Trusetal, the work of packed with timber-frame
houses, attracts visitors to the
densely covered with spruce forests. Small towns, charming 1 Friedrichroda human hands, was built Wilhelmsburg, its Renaissance
in the mid-19th century.
spas and wintersports resorts nestle in the valleys, while the The Neo-Gothic Reinhards- Another site worth visiting is palace, and to Neue Hütte,
ruins of once fearsome castles occupy the hilltops. This is prime brunn castle in Friedrich- the nearby Marienglashöhle an interesting old smelting
walking country, and Gotha is the best starting point for a roda was the place where in Friedrichroda, an unusual plant dating from 1835.
Queen Victoria met her
walking holiday. For a longer hike, stop in Ilmenau, and from fiancé, Prince Albert von crystal grotto. 0 km 10
there follow the upward trail marked G, to a hunters’ shelter Sachsen-Coburg-Gotha, 0 miles 10
and a foresters’ lodge. in 1840.


Erfurt Weimar
Eisenach
Gotha 4 Oberhof
This is a popular wintersports
Gera
Gera resort, with excellent ski-jumps.
In the summer it is worth
visiting the Rennsteiggarten,
the town’s botanical gardens
with a vast collection of
Alpine plants.
Bad
Salzingen JJ 5 Suhl
Famous from the 16th
9 Drei Gleichen century as a centre of
T
This name, meaning “three of T H arms manufacture,
H
the same”, refers to three castles – Werra Ü Suhl’s history can today
Ü
R
Mühlburg and Burg Gleichen have R I I Rudolstadt be gleaned in the
stood in ruins for centuries, but N G J J local Waffen museum
N
G
the third castle, Wachsenburg, J J (armaments museum).
has survived and now serves as Bad
a hotel. Zella-Mehlis E R W A L Blankenburg
JJ
E R W A L D D
Meiningen
Schwarza Off-map
Werra label
J J
6 Ilmenau
This small university town, teeming
Hildburghausen Eisfeld with life, is the starting point of the
so-called Goethe-Wanderweg, a
Tips for Walkers walking trail leading to all the places
where the famous poet once stayed.
Length: 150 km (90 miles). 7 Paulinzelle
Stopping places: inns and The 12th-century
restaurants in every town.
8 Arnstadt Suggestions: walk along the Romanesque abbey, Key
This picturesque town, once the home of Goethe-Wanderweg trail, from now in ruins, was once Suggested route
Johann Sebastian Bach, features a town Ilmenau. Train journey by the a home for Benedictine
hall in the Mannerist style, an early-Gothic Thüringerwaldbahn, from Gotha monks, but it was later Other road
church and a Baroque palace that is now via Friedrichroda to Tabarz. abandoned during Scenic route
home to a wax museum. the Reformation.

For map symbols see back flap


194-195_EW_Germany.indd 194 09/10/17 12:59 pm 194-195_EW_Germany.indd 195 09/10/17 12:59 pm

THURINGIA  195



2 Trusetal 3 Schmalkalden
The magnificent waterfall This charming little town,
in Trusetal, the work of packed with timber-frame
human hands, was built houses, attracts visitors to the
in the mid-19th century. Wilhelmsburg, its Renaissance
Another site worth visiting is palace, and to Neue Hütte,
the nearby Marienglashöhle an interesting old smelting
in Friedrichroda, an unusual plant dating from 1835.
crystal grotto. 0 km 10
0 miles 10





Erfurt Weimar
4 Oberhof
This is a popular wintersports
Gera resort, with excellent ski-jumps.
In the summer it is worth
visiting the Rennsteiggarten,
the town’s botanical gardens
with a vast collection of
Alpine plants.

J 5 Suhl
Famous from the 16th
century as a centre of
T arms manufacture,
H
Ü Suhl’s history can today
R Rudolstadt be gleaned in the
I
N
J local Waffen museum
G
(armaments museum).
Bad
J
Blankenburg
J
E R W A L D
Schwarza Off-map
label
J


6 Ilmenau
This small university town, teeming
Eisfeld with life, is the starting point of the
so-called Goethe-Wanderweg, a
walking trail leading to all the places
where the famous poet once stayed.
7 Paulinzelle
The 12th-century
Romanesque abbey, Key
now in ruins, was once
a home for Benedictine Suggested route
monks, but it was later Other road
abandoned during Scenic route
the Reformation.






194-195_EW_Germany.indd 195 09/10/17 12:59 pm

196  EASTERN GERM AN Y THURINGIA  197

8 Erfurt esque bronze man­shaped VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
candelabra, (around 1160).
The Thuringian capital, Erfurt, is also the oldest town in the Practical Information
region – its earliest historic records date from AD729, and in R St Severi-Kirche Road map D4. * 200,000. n
AD742 a bishopric was founded here. As an important trading Domberg. Tel (0361) 57 69 60. Benediktsplatz 1 (0361-66400).
_ Krämerbrückenfest (Jun),
Open Apr–Oct: 9am–6pm Mon–Sat,
post between east and west, the town grew quickly. Erfurt 1–6pm Sun; Nov–Mar: 10am–5pm Weinfest (Aug), Petersbergfest
University was founded in 1392; it became a stronghold for Mon–Sat, 1–5pm Sun. (Sep), Christmas market (Dec).
radical thought, and Martin Luther was one of its pupils. Until This five­nave Gothic hall­ ∑ erfurt­tourismus.de
the 17th century, Erfurt was famous for its red dyes extracted church, next to the cathedral, Transport
from the madder root; in the 18th century the town became dates from the late 13th and k Flughafenstraße 4 (0361-65
a horticultural centre, and to this day it hosts an impressive early 14th century. Inside it 60). £ Am Bahnhofsplatz. @
Bürgermeister-Wagner-Straße.
has the Gothic sarcophagus
garden show in one of Germany’s largest parks.
of St Severus, from about
1365, a huge font of 1467 Fischmarkt, surrounded by houses from various periods
and interesting Gothic altars. E EGA and Gartenbau
E Stadtmuseum E Angermuseum museum
P Fischmarkt Johannesstraße 169. Tel (0361) 655 56 Anger 18. Tel (0361) 55 45 615. Cyriaksburg, Gothaer Straße 38. Tel
This small market square, with 51. Open 10am–6pm Tue–Sun. Open 10am–6pm Tue–Sun. (0361) 223 22 0. Open May–Oct:
its Neo­Gothic town hall Erfurt’s history museum is housed Barfüßerkirche: Barfüßerstraße 20. 10am–8pm daily; Nov–Apr: 10am–4pm
(1870–74), is surrounded by in a beautiful, late-Renaissance Tel (0361) 55 45 615. Open Mar–Nov: daily. Museum: Tel (0361) 22 39 90.
houses dating from various building called Zum Stockfisch 10am–6pm Tue–Sun. & Open 10am–6pm Tue–Sun. Closed Jan
periods, including the 16th­ (To the Dried Cod), built in 1607. The museum, housed in a & Feb. &
century Renaissance buildings Baroque building, has a On the hill around Erfurt’s ruined
Zum Breiten Herd (No. 13, P Anger collection of decorative and castle (around 1480) are the
To the Wide Hearth) and Zum Now pedestrianized, this is a sacred arts including grounds of the International
Roten Ochsen (No. 7, To the market square and Erfurt’s main paintings by Lucas Cranach Garden Show (Erfurter Garten­
Red Ox). On the streets off the shopping street, lined with attrac- the Elder, and 19th- and ausstellung) with exhibition halls,
market square are three Gothic tive 19th-century mansions and 20th-century German works. gardens, a butterfly house and a
Picturesque half-timbered houses, lining the Krämerbrücke churches: Michaeliskirche, commercial premises. There are One of its rooms is decorated museum of horticulture and
opposite the ruins of the late­ two Gothic churches: Kaufmanns­ with Expressionist murals beekeeping.
Exploring Erfurt Gloriosa, a huge bell 2.5 m (8 ft) Gothic university buildings, kirche and Reglerkirche, with a (1923–4) by Erich Heckel.
The town, on the banks of the in diameter, hangs in the centre the twin­nave llerheiligenkirche huge Gothic altar dating from The medieval section is in Environs
river Gera, is dominated by tower. Cast by Gerhard Wou in (late 13th to early 14th around 1470. At Nos. 37 and 38 the presbytery of the Molsdorf, 10 km (6 miles) to the
two hills. On the higher one, 1497, it is one of the largest bells century), and the ex­ there is the Dacherödensches Barfüßer kirche, a former southeast, has a 16th-century
Petersberg, stands a huge for­ in the world. The church interior Dominican Predigerkirche. Haus, a complex of beautiful Franciscan church that was Baroque palace set in landscaped
tress surrounding a Romanesque has well preserved Gothic Renaissance buildings. destroyed during World War II. parkland, with a museum.
church, while the lower Domberg decorations and rich furnishings. P Krämerbrücke
has two churches, the Dom St Particularly valuable are the 14th­ The “merchant bridge” which
Marien and the St Severi kirche. and 15th­century stained­glass spans the River Gera is one Erfurt City Centre
From the Domplatz, at the foot windows, the Gothic stalls (around of Erfurt’s most interesting 1 Dom St Marien
of the hill, a row of narrow streets 1370) and Wolfram, a Roman­ structures. The present stone 2 St Severi-Kirche AUGUSTINE R STRASSE
Augustinerkirche
leads to Fisch markt. If you cross bridge was built around 1325.
the river here, you will get to It is lined by 32 houses with 3 Fischmarkt
Erfurt’s old commercial district shops, dating mainly from the 4 Krämerbrücke JOHANNESSTRASSE
and its market square, the Anger. 17th to 19th centuries, which 5 Augustinerkirche G O TTHAR D T S T R ASSE Schottenkirche
replaced its 60 original medieval 6 Stadtmuseum MICHAELISSTR.
R Dom St Marien houses. On its eastern viaduct 7 Anger PERGAMENTERGASSE Kaisersaal
Domberg. Tel (0361) 646 12 65. stands Ägidienkirche, a 8 Angermuseum ALLERHEILIGENSTR. Zum Michaeliskirche WENIGE- FUTTERSTRASSE Stadt-
museum
MARKT
Open Apr–Oct: 9am–6pm Mon–Sat, 14th­century Gothic church. Breiten Herd KRÄMERBRÜCKE
1–6pm Sun; Nov–Mar: 10am–5pm MEIENBERGSTR.
Mon–Sat, 1–5pm Sun. & R Augustinerkloster– MARKTSTR. FISCHMARKT Kleine Aegidienkirche
The wide stairs leading from Augustinerkirche Zum Roten Rathaus Synagoge PILSE Kaufmannskirche
Ochsen
Domplatz to the main entrance Augustinerstraße 10. Tel (0361) 576 60 DOMPLATZ ANGER
of the cathedral provide a good 10. 8 10am–4pm daily. & Zitadelle St Severi-Kirche GROSSE ARCHE Neue SCHLÖSSERSTR.
Petersburg
view over the 14th­century This early Gothic church was Predigerkirche Mühle
Gothic presbytery, which is built for Augustinian monks at Barfüsserkirche Angermuseum
Dom
supported by a massive vaulted the end of the 13th century. St Marien Bartholo- BAHNHOFSTR.
substructure, known as the Particularly noteworthy are its MEISTER-ECKEHART-STR mäusturm Hauptbahnhof
Kavaten. The main body of the original Gothic stained­glass WALKSTROM Statthalterei 250m (275 yards)
Gera
cathedral dates from the 15th windows. In the neighbouring REGIERUNGSSTRASSE
century, but its huge towers monastery, the reconstructed
are the remains of an earlier Rich furnishings in the Gothic interior of cell where Martin Luther lived 0 metres 300 Gartenbaumuseum
MOLSDORF
Romanesque building. Maria Dom St Marien as a monk can be admired. 0 yards 300 Airport
3 km (2 miles)
For hotels and restaurants in this area see pp494–5 and pp516–17 For additional map symbols see back flap
196-197_EW_Germany.indd 196 09/10/17 12:59 pm 196-197_EW_Germany.indd 197 09/10/17 12:59 pm

THURINGIA  197


VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
Practical Information
Road map D4. * 200,000. n
Benediktsplatz 1 (0361-66400).
_ Krämerbrückenfest (Jun),
Weinfest (Aug), Petersbergfest
(Sep), Christmas market (Dec).
∑ erfurt­tourismus.de
Transport
k Flughafenstraße 4 (0361-65
60). £ Am Bahnhofsplatz. @
Bürgermeister-Wagner-Straße.
Fischmarkt, surrounded by houses from various periods
E EGA and Gartenbau
E Stadtmuseum E Angermuseum museum
Johannesstraße 169. Tel (0361) 655 56 Anger 18. Tel (0361) 55 45 615. Cyriaksburg, Gothaer Straße 38. Tel
51. Open 10am–6pm Tue–Sun. Open 10am–6pm Tue–Sun. (0361) 223 22 0. Open May–Oct:
Erfurt’s history museum is housed Barfüßerkirche: Barfüßerstraße 20. 10am–8pm daily; Nov–Apr: 10am–4pm
in a beautiful, late-Renaissance Tel (0361) 55 45 615. Open Mar–Nov: daily. Museum: Tel (0361) 22 39 90.
building called Zum Stockfisch 10am–6pm Tue–Sun. & Open 10am–6pm Tue–Sun. Closed Jan
(To the Dried Cod), built in 1607. The museum, housed in a & Feb. &
Baroque building, has a On the hill around Erfurt’s ruined
P Anger collection of decorative and castle (around 1480) are the
Now pedestrianized, this is a sacred arts including grounds of the International
market square and Erfurt’s main paintings by Lucas Cranach Garden Show (Erfurter Garten­
shopping street, lined with attrac- the Elder, and 19th- and ausstellung) with exhibition halls,
tive 19th-century mansions and 20th-century German works. gardens, a butterfly house and a
commercial premises. There are One of its rooms is decorated museum of horticulture and
two Gothic churches: Kaufmanns­ with Expressionist murals beekeeping.
kirche and Reglerkirche, with a (1923–4) by Erich Heckel.
huge Gothic altar dating from The medieval section is in Environs
around 1470. At Nos. 37 and 38 the presbytery of the Molsdorf, 10 km (6 miles) to the
there is the Dacherödensches Barfüßer kirche, a former southeast, has a 16th-century
Haus, a complex of beautiful Franciscan church that was Baroque palace set in landscaped
Renaissance buildings. destroyed during World War II. parkland, with a museum.

Erfurt City Centre
1 Dom St Marien
Augustinerkirche
2 St Severi-Kirche AUGUSTINE R STRASSE
3 Fischmarkt
4 Krämerbrücke
5 Augustinerkirche G O TTHAR D T S T R ASSE Schottenkirche
6 Stadtmuseum MICHAELISSTR.
JOHANNESSTRASSE
7 Anger PERGAMENTERGASSE Kaisersaal
8 Angermuseum ALLERHEILIGENSTR. Zum Michaeliskirche WENIGE- FUTTERSTRASSE Stadt-
museum
MARKT
Breiten Herd
KRÄMERBRÜCKE
FISCHMARKT MEIENBERGSTR.
MARKTSTR. Kleine Aegidienkirche
Zum Roten Rathaus Synagoge Kaufmannskirche
Ochsen PILSE
DOMPLATZ ANGER
Zitadelle GROSSE ARCHE Neue SCHLÖSSERSTR.
Petersburg
St Severi-Kirche Mühle
Predigerkirche
Barfüsserkirche
Angermuseum
Dom BAHNHOFSTR.
St Marien MEISTER-ECKEHART-STR Bartholo-
WALKSTROM Statthalterei mäusturm 250m (275 yards)
Hauptbahnhof
Gera
REGIERUNGSSTRASSE
0 metres 300 Gartenbaumuseum
MOLSDORF
0 yards 300 Airport
3 km (2 miles)
For additional map symbols see back flap
196-197_EW_Germany.indd 197 09/10/17 12:59 pm

198  EASTERN GERM AN Y THURINGIA  199

9 Weimar E Bauhaus-Museum VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
Theaterplatz. Tel (03643) 545 400.
Had it not been for the enlightened sponsorship of its rulers, Open 10am–6pm Wed–Mon. & Practical Information
Weimar would have become just another residential town in This museum is devoted to the Road map D4. * 62,000.
Thuringia. The town flourished, particularly under Duke Carl famous art school, which was n Markt 10 (03643-74 50).
_ Thüringer Bach-Wochen (Mar),
Augustus and his wife Anna Amalia, when Goethe, Schiller founded in Weimar in 1919, moved Spiegelzelt (May/Jun), Kunstfest
to Dessau in 1925 (see p158) and
and Herder lived here. Famous 19th- and 20th-century later, in 1933, to Berlin (see p92). (Aug/Sep), Fest an Goethes
residents included Franz Liszt, Richard Strauss, Friedrich Geburtstag 28 Aug), Liszt-Tage
Nietzsche and many distinguished writers and artists E Wittumspalais (Oct), Zwiebelmarkt (Oct).
∑ weimar-tourist.de
associated with the Bauhaus School, which was founded here Theaterplatz. Tel (03643) 545 401.
in 1919. It also gave its name to the Weimar Republic, the Open Apr–Oct: 10am–6pm Wed–Mon; Picturesque Baroque summer residence known as Schloß Belvedere Transport
Nov–Mar: 10am–4pm Wed–Mon. &
£ Schopenhauerstraße
demo cratic German State, lasting from World War I to 1933. @ Washingtonstr.
The Dowager Duchess Anna + Herzogin-Anna-Amalia Open Apr–Oct: 9:30am–6pm, Nov–
Amalia lived in this Baroque Bibliothek Mar: 9am–4pm. Closed Mon. &
Exploring Weimar palace, designed by Johann Platz der Demokratie 4. Tel (03643) 54 ∑ klassic-stiftung.de
Weimar is relatively small and Gottfried Schlegel and built in 52 00. Open 9:30am–2:30pm Tue–Sun. This house was presented to Franz Liszt lived here in
most of its tourist attractions 1767–9. It has fine interiors and This former Mannerist palace, Goethe by Duke Carl Augustus. 1869–86, while he composed
are near the town centre, on the mementos of the Enlightenment also known as Grünes Schloß Here the writer wrote his most the Hungarian Rhapsody. His
left bank of the Ilm River. In the figure Christoph-Martin Wieland. (green castle), became the famous work, Faust. The museum apartment and the room in
north of the centre are the Neues duchess’ library in 1761–6. Its shows items associated with which he worked have been
Museum and the Stadtmuseum E Schillerhaus oval Rococo interior is one of Goethe and other Enlightenment preserved to this day.
(municipal museum). Many Schillerstraße 12. Tel (03643) 545 401. the finest of its type in Europe. poets from Weimar.
interesting buildings can be Open Apr–Sep: 9am–6pm Tue–Fri & Environs
found around Theaterplatz, Sun, 9am–7pm Sat; Oct: 9am–6pm + Schloß Belvedere Y Goethes Gartenhaus Buchenwald, 8 km (5 miles)
from where you proceed Tue–Sun; Nov–Mar: 9am–4pm Tue– Tel (03643) 545 400. Open Apr–Oct: Park an der Ilm. Open Apr–Oct: north of Weimar, was the site of a
towards the Markt to visit Sun. & ∑ klassik-stiftung.de 10am–6pm Tue–Sun. & 10am–6pm Wed–Mon; Nov–Mar: concentration camp set up by
the ducal palace. In the south The museum is in the house This ducal summer residence, 10am–4pm Wed–Mon. & the Nazis. During the period 1937
of the centre are the former where Friedrich Schiller wrote which was built between 1724 Goethe’s first home in Weimar, to 1945, over 54,000 people were
homes of Goethe and Liszt. Wilhelm Tell (1804) and spent and 1732 in Belvedere Park, has this small villa is in the pleasant killed here. It is now a place of
St Peter und St Paul, also known as the last years of his life. a fine collection of decorative park alongside the River Ilm remembrance, a museum and a
E Neues Museum the Herderkirche art from the Rococo period and which Goethe helped design. documentation centre.
Weimarplatz 5. Tel (03643) 545 400. R St Peter und St Paul a wonderful park.
Open Apr–Oct: 11am–6pm Tue–Sun; F Deutsches Herderplatz. Tel (03643) 85 15 18. P Liszt Museum E Buchenwald
Nov–Mar: 11am–4pm Tue–Sun. Nationaltheater Open Apr–Oct: 10am–6pm Mon–Fri, E Goethes Wohnhaus and Marienstraße 17. Tel (03643) 54 54 01. Tel (03643) 430 100. Open Apr–Oct:
This Neo-Renaissance building, Theaterplatz 2. Tel (03643) 75 50. 10am–noon & 2–4pm Sat; Nov–Mar: National Museum Open Apr–Dec: 10am–6pm Tue–Sun. 10am–6pm Tue–Sun; Nov–Mar:
once the Landesmuseum (region- The present Neo-Classical 11am–noon & 2–4pm daily. Frauenplan 1. Tel (03643) 54 53 00. Closed Jan–Mar. & 10am–4pm Tue–Sun.
al museum), was transformed building, built in 1906–7 to a This late-Gothic hall church
into a gallery in 1999. It displays design by Heilmann & Littmann, has Baroque furnishings and an Hauptbanhof Neues Museum
changing exhibits of modern is the third theatre to stand on original altar painted by the Weimar City Centre 600 m (650 yds)
art, with an emphasis on colour. this site. Famous conductors who Cranachs. It is also known as 1 Stadtmuseum Stadtmuseum
worked here include Franz Liszt the Herderkirche, after the poet hallenpark KARL- LIEBKNECHT-STR. Jakobskirche
Weimar-
E Stadtmuseum and Richard Strauss, and it was who preached here. 2 Deutsches Nationaltheater JAKOBS TRASSE
Karl-Liebknecht-Straße 5–9. Tel (03643) also the venue for the world 3 Bauhaus-Museum SCHWANSEESTRASSE
826 00. Open 11am–5pm Tue–Sun. premiere of Wagner’s Lohengrin. E Kirms-Krackow-Haus 4 Wittumspalais G R A B E N
This museum is devoted In 1919 the National Congress Jakobstraße 10. Tel (03643) 545 401. 5 Schillerhaus St Peter Krims-
to the history of Weimar, but sat in the National theater and Open Apr–Oct: 10am–6pm Tue–Sun. 6 St Peter und St Paul GOETHEPLATZ und St Paul Krackow-Haus
it also holds an interesting passed the new constitution Closed Nov–Apr. & 7 Krims-Krackow-Haus CO UD R AY STR A SS E
natural history collection. for the Wei mar Republic. This Renaissance house, which 8 Stadtschloß GELEITSTRASSE HERDERPLATZ Stadtschloss
It is housed in a Neo- In front of the theatre is was extended in the late 18th 9 Grünes Schloß HEINRICH-HEI NE-STR. S C HLO S S G A S S E BURGPLATZ
Classical house, which a monument to Goethe century, illustrates how people 0 Goethe-Museum Bauhaus-Museum
was built in the late 18th (who founded the theatre) lived in Goethe’s time. THEATER- Wittumspalais Stadthaus Ilm
PLATZ
GRÜNER
Deutsches
century for the publisher and Schiller, by the sculptor Nationaltheater Rathaus MARKT
Justin Bertuch. Ernst Rietschel (1857). + Stadtschloß ERFURTER STR. MARKT Rotes Schloss
Schillerhaus
Burgplatz 4. Schloßmuseum: SCHILLERSTR. FRAUENTORSTR DEMOKRATIE Grünes Schloss
PLATZ DER
Tel (03643) 54 59 60. Open Apr–Oct: FRAUEN Gelbes Schloss
10am–6pm Tue–Sun; Nov–Mar: PLAN Fürstenhaus
Goethe-Museum
10am–4pm Tue–Sun. & S T E U BE N ST RA S SE Park an A M H O R N
der Ilm
This vast ducal castle was rebuilt ACKERWAND
HUM BO LDTSTR.
Goethes
in the Neo-Classical style for SCHUBERTSTRASSE Gartenhaus
Duke Carl August. It has original AMALIENSTRASSE MARIENSTR ASSE Park an der Ilm
interiors and fine paintings from
the Weimar Art School, and a 0 metres 300 Museum für Ur- und Liszt-haus
The Stadtschloß in Burgplatz, with its tall Renaissance tower gallery devoted to Lucas Cranach. 0 yards 300 Frühgeschichte Thüringens Schloss Belvedere
Alter Friedhof
For hotels and restaurants in this area see pp494–5 and pp516–17 Key to Symbols see back flap
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