(DK Eyewitness) Travel Guide - Germany

NOR TH RHINE-WESTPHALIA  399


the church without a tower. The In the 18th and 19th centuries, The house where Israel Berr
interior has Gothic works of art Aachen gained great Josaphat Reuter established the
and stunningly beautiful stained- importance as a spa. Many first-ever news agency in 1850
glass windows, the altar of the buildings from this era have (transferred to London a year
Coronation of the Blessed Virgin long since vanished. Further later) now houses the Inter­
Mary (late 15th century), a destruction was inflicted by nationales Zeitungs museum,
beautiful 14th-century World War II, yet some historic devoted to the history of
Annunciation and a sacrarium monuments have survived. the press, with over 200,000
(1490). After the dissolution of the The most important of news-papers from the
Order in 1803, the cathedral these is the Pfalz (see 16th century to today.
suffered a turbulent history. It pp400–401), a complex There has been
now serves as a church for both of buildings belonging an extensive
Catholics and Protestants. to Charle-magne’s renovation to house
Children enjoy Altenberg for its former palace. They a temporary exhibition
Märchenwald (fairy-tale wood), include a cathedral with space and lecture halls.
an enchanted forest, with a palace chapel and a It is also worth visiting
interactive scenes and statues hall which was rebuilt the Suermondt­
representing popular fairy tales. as the Rathaus. Ludwig­Museum, not
In the old town, near far beyond the town
the cathedral complex, centre, which has a
r Köln (Cologne) is the church of St great collection of art
Folian, where a Gothic from the Middle Ages
See pp402–9. Madonna dating from until the present
1411 has survived. A Statue of David day, including some
short distance south Hansemann sculptures and
t Aachen from here stands the paintings from the 17th
Elisenbrunnen (fountain of century. To the north-east of the
Road map A4. * 247,000. £ @
n Friedrich-Wilhelm-Platz (0241- Elizabeth), an exceptionally old town is the spa district of
180 29 60). _ Frühjahrsbend (Apr), beautiful building where Aachen. Here, visitors can stroll
horse-riding competitions CHIO mineral water can be taken. through the park or spend an
(Jul), Europamarkt der Kunsthand- It was built in 1822–7 according evening at the casino. Lovers
werker (Sep). to designs by Johann Peter of modern art will enjoy
Cremer and Karl Friedrich the Ludwig-Forum für
Aachen owes its fame to its hot Schinkel. Internationale Kunst, which
springs, whose healing powers After admiring the attractive hosts interesting exhibitions.
were already highly rated by the houses around the central
Romans when they established market square visitors can enjoy E Internationales
baths here in the 1st–2nd the Couven­Museum. Based in Zeitungsmuseum
centuries AD. The name of the an historic middle-class town Pontstraße 13. Tel (0241) 432 49 10.
town, aquae grani or Aquisgrani, house, it has an interesting Open 10am–5pm Tue–Sun. ∑ izm.de
also relates to the source. collection dedicated to the life E Suermondt­Ludwig­Museum
The settlement grew in the of the bourgeoisie in the 18th Wilhelmstraße 18. Tel (0241) 47 98 00.
8th century, when Charlemagne and 19th centuries. There is also Open 10am–5pm Tue–Sun. & -
chose it as his principal resi- a collection of ceramic tiles 8 =
dence in 768. He built a huge from the 16th–19th centuries. E Couven­Museum
palace complex with Hühnermarkt 17. Tel (0241) 432 44 21.
chapel, cloistered court- Open 10am–5pm Tue–Sun.
yard and hall for himself. Closed public hols. &
When Charlemagne
was crowned emperor Environs
in 800, Aachen became Kornelimünster, 6 km (4 miles)
the capital of the southeast of the centre, is a
Holy Roman Empire. beautifully preserved old town
Although the town with several churches. The most
soon lost this title, it important is the Propsteikirche
remained an important St Kornelius, a former
destination for pilgrims Benedictine monastery dating
because of the valuable from the early 9th century.
relics brought here by The surviving building is a
Charlemagne. From 14th-century Gothic basilica,
the 10th to the 16th extended by the early 16th
centuries, all German century to a five-nave structure.
kings were crowned in The Neo-Classical building which houses the casino in The chapel of St Kornelius
the palace chapel. Aachen’s spa park was added in the 18th century.




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400  WESTERN GERM AN Y

The Pfalz in Aachen

The original palace of Charlemagne in Aachen
did not survive; of his vast construction only the
Pfalzkapelle (palatine chapel) remains. Modelled
on the church of San Vitale in Ravenna, Italy, it was
built by Odo von Metz in 786–800. In the mid-14th
century a front tower was added, and in the years
1355–1414 a new presbytery was built. Side chapels
were added later, and in the 17th century the
central section was covered by a dome.


















Charlemagne’s Throne
This modest throne, fashioned
from marbled tiles, served as the
coronation throne for successive
German leaders.









Candelabra
This copper candelabra, a masterpiece
of Romanesque craftsmanship, was a
gift from Emperor Friedrich I Barbarossa.
KEY
Main
1 Ungarn kapelle
entrance
2 Antique Columns The arcaded
ambulatory is divided by beautiful
columns, made from red marble and
porphyry which had been brought
from Ravenna and Rome.
3 Hubertus- and Karls-kapelle
4 The Gothic presbytery was Bronze doors
modelled on Sainte-Chapelle in Paris. The doors, dating from
the time of Charlemagne,
5 Matthiaskapelle are the oldest historic
6 Annakapelle monument of their kind
in Germany.



400-401_EW_Germany.indd 400 09/10/17 2:33 pm
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AA CHEN  401


. Lotharkreuz VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
This magnificent cross (around 1000),
decorated with a cameo showing a Practical Information
portrait of Emperor Augustus, Cathedral: Münsterpl.. Tel (0241) 47
is one of the most valuable 70 90. Open Jan–Mar: 7am–6pm;
exhibits in the Schatzkammer. Apr–Dec: 7am–7pm. 8 from
11am Mon–Fri, from 1pm Sat &
Sun. Treasury: Klosterpl. 2.
Tel (0241) 47 70 91 27. Open Apr–
Dec: 10am–1pm Mon, 10am–6pm
Tue–Sun; Jan–Mar: 10am–1pm
Mon, 10am–5pm Tue–Sun.











. The Shrine of Charlemagne
The Emperor Charlemagne was canonized
as a saint in 1165 and in 1215 his remains
were placed in this gold and silver casket by
Friedrich II. It is on display in the presbytery.














. Pala d’Oro
The front of the main altar is
adorned with valuable gold
sheets from around 1020,
funded by Heinrich II.








Proserpina’s Sarcophagus
This sarcophagus, in the Schatzkammer (treasury), is a
beautiful example of early 3rd-century Roman sculpture.
It is thought that the body of Charlemagne rested in this
coffin until he was canonized.
Ambo
The ambo, a pulpit fashioned from gold-plated
copper and inlaid with precious stones and
ivories, was donated by Heinrich II in 1014.
For hotels and restaurants in this area see pp500–501 and pp526–9


400-401_EW_Germany.indd 401 09/10/17 2:33 pm

402  WESTERN GERM AN Y C OL OGNE (K Ö LN)  403

r Cologne (Köln) E Museum Ludwig Budengasse an entrance leads VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
Heinrich-Böll-Platz. Tel (0221) 22 12 to the Praetorium, the remains
Originally founded by the Romans, Cologne (Köln) is one of 61 65. Open 10am–6pm Tue–Sun, of a Roman town hall. A contro­ Practical Information
the oldest towns in Germany. The Franks ruled the town from 10am–10pm first Thu of month. & versial “archaeology zone” and Road map B4. * 1,005,000.
n Kardinal­Höffnerplatz 1 (0221­
the end of the 5th century, and Charlemagne raised its status This museum has one of Jewish museum is under 34 64 30). ( Markt bei der
to that of an archbishopric. Cologne has remained a powerful Europe’s best collections construction on Rathausplatz. Apostelkirche 7am–noon Tue &
It will show case the excavated
of modern art. There are
ecclesiastical centre – it boasts 12 Romanesque churches as paintings by Picasso, German Roman walls and Jewish finds, Fri. _ Rosenmontagsumzug
well as the famous Gothic cathedral. In the Middle Ages the Expressionists, Surrealists, including the remains of (Carnival Rose Mon, Jan/Feb),
city also played a significant role in the Hanseatic League. American Pop Artists and 12th­century ritual Jewish baths Bierbörse (Aug/Sep).
∑ koelntourismus.de
Present-day Cologne is known for its trade fairs and as an the Russian Avantgarde that were destroyed after the
important centre for art and culture, with excellent museums, as well as many sculptures. expulsion of the Jews in 1424. Transport
£ Hauptbahnhof. @ ZOB
historic buildings and art galleries. The highest number of R Groß St Martin A detail of the Gothic section of the E Wallraf-Richartz-Museum – Breslauer Platz. k Cologne­Bonn
visitors today come for the five days preceding Ash Wednesday, An Groß St Martin 9. Tel (0221) 27 Rathaus façade Fondation Corboud Airport.
to watch the grand carnival processions. 79 47 47. Open 9:30am–7.30pm Tue– See pp408–9.
Sat, 1–7.30pm Sun. P Rathaus
R St Andreas This church, with its attractive Alter Markt. n (0221) 22 10. Open for E Gürzenich without a tower, modelled
Komödienstraße 4–8. triangular presbytery and vast tours only; call (0221) 34 64 30. Gürzenichstraße. on the Elisabethkirche in
This late-Romanesque tower dominating Fischmarkt, Praetorium: Kleine Budengasse. This Gothic building has a huge Marburg. There are historic
basilica was founded in was founded for the Benedictine Tel (0221) 223 94. Open 10am–5pm celebration hall (1437–44), which furnishings and a 14th­century
around 1200, with a Order in the late 12th century. Tue–Sun. & occupies the entire first floor. shrine with the remains of
presbytery added in The Romans built a sports arena The town hall is an irregular Next to it are the ruins of the Johannes Duns Scotus, a
1414–20. Of particular note on this site with a swimming shape created by successive Romanesque church Alt St Alban. Scottish Minorite.
are the beautiful capitals, pool, remains of which have modifications. In the first phase, It has a copy of the sculpture
linking the pillars between been uncovered under the around 1330, a wing with a Parents by Käthe Kollwitz.
the naves, and the stalls crypt. The houses in the Hanseatic Hall was built,
(around 1420–30). surrounding Martins viertel were decorated with Gothic R Minoritenkirche
constructed post-World War II, sculptures. In 1407–14 a vast Mariä Empfängnis
R Pfarrkirche Picturesque houses on Fischmarkt but they were built to historic Gothic tower was added, and in Minoritenstraße.
St Mariä Himmelfahrt designs and follow a medieval the 16th century the arca ded This modest Gothic Franciscan
Marzellenstraße 32–40. E Römisch-Germanisches street layout. Renaissance Lions Courtyard church was established in the
Open 1–5pm daily. Museum and a magnificent front lodge 13th–14th centuries. It is an Place of remembrance, in Alt St Alban,
The parish church of the Roncalliplatz 4. Tel (0221) 244 38. E Farina Haus were built. From Kleine elegant three­naved basilica near the Gürzenich
Assumption of Mary is one of Open 10am–5pm Tue–Sun, Obenmarspforten 21. Tel (0221) 399
the few Baroque buildings in 10am–10pm first Thu of month. 89 94. Open 10am–7pm Mon–Sat,
the city, built for the Jesuits in This building houses a 11am–5pm Sun. & ∑ farina.org Cologne City Centre St Ursula
1618–89. Its Roman esque and number of Roman and pre- Farina Haus traces the history 1 St Andreas URSULA- Breslauer Platz/
Hauptbahnhof
PLATZ
Gothic elements are not of an Roman archaeological finds of fragrance. Tours lead to the VICTORIASTRASSE
earlier building, but a deliberate unearthed in Cologne and the over 300-year-old cellar where 2 Pfarrkirche MARZELLENS T R. St Kunibert
link with earlier styles. Rhine Valley. On display are the Italian perfumier Johann St Mariä Himmelfahrt MAXIMINENSTRASSE
weapons, orna mental and Maria Farina first began 3 Dom St Peter und Pfarrkirche St Mariä Hauptbahnhof
R Cologne Cathedral artistic objects, the superb producing Eau de Cologne, Santa Maria St Gereon Himmelfahrt K.-ADENAUER-UFER
(Kölner Dom) Dionysus mosaic and the now a generic brand 4 Römisch­Germanisches UNTER SACHSENHAUSEN. Dom/
Hauptbahnhof
St Andreas
See pp406–7. monument to Poblicius. recognized worldwide. Museum Appellhofplatz KOMÖDIENSTR.
5 Museum Ludwig Kölnisches TUNISSTR. Dom St Peter Hohenzollern-
& Santa Maria
6 Groß St Martin Stadtmuseum Museum brücke
Ludwig
Museum für
7 Farina Haus Angewandte Kunst Römisch-
8 Rathaus KREBSGASSE Minoritenkirche HOHE STRASSE Germanisches
Museum
9 Wallraf­Richartz­Museum BREITE STR. Mariä Empfängnis KLEINE BUDENGASSE Rhein
MINORITENSTRASSE
ALTER
0 Gürzenich RICHMODSTR. Kolumba MARKT Groß
St Martin
Museum
q Minoritenkirche Mariä Opernhaus/ BRÜC KENSTR. Farina Haus Rathaus
Empfängnis Schauspielhaus Wallraf-Richartz-
Museum
w Kolumba Museum Käthe-Kollwitz- Gürzenich Heumarkt 5 km (3 miles)
Flughafen
e Schnütgen­Museum Museum SCHILDERGASSE GÜRZENICHSTR. Deutzer
r St Peter St Aposteln AUGUSTINERSTR. Brücke
t St Maria im Kapitol Schnütgen- Neumarkt CÄCILIENSTRASSE HOHE PFORTE PIPINSTRASSE AM LEYSTAPEL
y Overstolzenhaus Museum AN DER MALZM ÜHLE
St Peter
St Maria
BAYARDSGASSE NEUKÖLLNER STR. LEONH.-TIETZ-STR. im Kapitol Overstolzenhaus
AGRIPPASTR. St Maria Imhoff-
Museum
0 metres 400 MÜHLENBACH Lyskirchen HOLZMARKT Stollwerck-
St Pantaleon GEORGSTR. Deutsches
Cologne’s cityscape, with the cathedral, Groß St Martin church and the Colonius TV tower, viewed from across the Rhine 0 yards 400 St Georg Sport-
Museum
Severinsviertel
For hotels and restaurants in this area see pp500–501 and pp526–9
402-403_EW_Germany.indd 402 09/10/17 12:50 pm 402-403_EW_Germany.indd 403 09/10/17 12:50 pm

C OL OGNE (K Ö LN)  403


Budengasse an entrance leads VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
to the Praetorium, the remains
of a Roman town hall. A contro­ Practical Information
versial “archaeology zone” and Road map B4. * 1,005,000.
Jewish museum is under n Kardinal­Höffnerplatz 1 (0221­
construction on Rathausplatz. 34 64 30). ( Markt bei der
It will show case the excavated Apostelkirche 7am–noon Tue &
Roman walls and Jewish finds, Fri. _ Rosenmontagsumzug
including the remains of (Carnival Rose Mon, Jan/Feb),
12th­century ritual Jewish baths Bierbörse (Aug/Sep).
∑ koelntourismus.de
that were destroyed after the
expulsion of the Jews in 1424. Transport
£ Hauptbahnhof. @ ZOB
A detail of the Gothic section of the E Wallraf-Richartz-Museum – Breslauer Platz. k Cologne­Bonn
Rathaus façade Fondation Corboud Airport.
See pp408–9.
P Rathaus
Alter Markt. n (0221) 22 10. Open for E Gürzenich without a tower, modelled
tours only; call (0221) 34 64 30. Gürzenichstraße. on the Elisabethkirche in
Praetorium: Kleine Budengasse. This Gothic building has a huge Marburg. There are historic
Tel (0221) 223 94. Open 10am–5pm celebration hall (1437–44), which furnishings and a 14th­century
Tue–Sun. & occupies the entire first floor. shrine with the remains of
The town hall is an irregular Next to it are the ruins of the Johannes Duns Scotus, a
shape created by successive Romanesque church Alt St Alban. Scottish Minorite.
modifications. In the first phase, It has a copy of the sculpture
around 1330, a wing with a Parents by Käthe Kollwitz.
Hanseatic Hall was built,
decorated with Gothic R Minoritenkirche
sculptures. In 1407–14 a vast Mariä Empfängnis
Gothic tower was added, and in Minoritenstraße.
the 16th century the arca ded This modest Gothic Franciscan
Renaissance Lions Courtyard church was established in the
and a magnificent front lodge 13th–14th centuries. It is an Place of remembrance, in Alt St Alban,
were built. From Kleine elegant three­naved basilica near the Gürzenich

Cologne City Centre St Ursula
URSULA-
1 St Andreas VICTORIASTRASSE Breslauer Platz/
Hauptbahnhof
PLATZ
2 Pfarrkirche MARZELLENS T R. St Kunibert
St Mariä Himmelfahrt MAXIMINENSTRASSE
3 Dom St Peter und Hauptbahnhof
Santa Maria St Gereon Pfarrkirche St Mariä K.-ADENAUER-UFER
Himmelfahrt
4 Römisch­Germanisches UNTER SACHSENHAUSEN. Dom/
Hauptbahnhof
Museum Appellhofplatz St Andreas
5 Museum Ludwig Kölnisches TUNISSTR. KOMÖDIENSTR. Dom St Peter Hohenzollern-
& Santa Maria
6 Groß St Martin Stadtmuseum Museum brücke
Ludwig
7 Farina Haus Angewandte Kunst Römisch-
Museum für
8 Rathaus KREBSGASSE Minoritenkirche HOHE STRASSE Germanisches
Museum
9 Wallraf­Richartz­Museum BREITE STR. Mariä Empfängnis KLEINE BUDENGASSE Rhein
MINORITENSTRASSE
ALTER
0 Gürzenich RICHMODSTR. Kolumba MARKT Groß
St Martin
Museum
q Minoritenkirche Mariä Opernhaus/ BRÜC KENSTR. Farina Haus Rathaus
Empfängnis Schauspielhaus Wallraf-Richartz-
Museum
w Kolumba Museum Käthe-Kollwitz- Gürzenich Heumarkt 5 km (3 miles)
Flughafen
e Schnütgen­Museum Museum SCHILDERGASSE GÜRZENICHSTR. Deutzer
r St Peter St Aposteln AUGUSTINERSTR. Brücke
t St Maria im Kapitol Schnütgen- Neumarkt CÄCILIENSTRASSE HOHE PFORTE PIPINSTRASSE AM LEYSTAPEL
y Overstolzenhaus Museum AN DER MALZM ÜHLE
St Peter
St Maria
BAYARDSGASSE NEUKÖLLNER STR. LEONH.-TIETZ-STR. im Kapitol Overstolzenhaus
AGRIPPASTR. St Maria Imhoff-
0 metres 400 MÜHLENBACH Lyskirchen HOLZMARKT Stollwerck-
Museum
St Pantaleon GEORGSTR. Deutsches
0 yards 400
St Georg Sport-
Museum
Severinsviertel
402-403_EW_Germany.indd 403 09/10/17 12:50 pm

404  WESTERN GERM AN Y C OL OGNE (K ÖLN)  405

Exploring Cologne (Köln) P Overstolzenhaus oval was encircled with a ten-
Rheingasse 8. sided, four-storey structure in
E Kolumba Museum Museum. Destroyed during World War II deprived Cologne early-Gothic style. This is topped
Kolumbastraße 4. Tel (0221) 933 19 30. World War II and subsequently of many of its historic residential with a vast dome, 48 m (157 ft)
Open noon–5pm Wed–Mon. & rebuilt, this museum specializes buildings, but this one has been in diameter, with ribbed vault.
∑ kolumba.de in religious art, mainly from lovingly restored. Built for a
Designed by Swiss architect Peter the Middle Ages. Its collection prosperous patrician family in R St Ursula
Zumthor to much critical acclaim, includes magnificient sculp­ the 13th century, it is one of the Ursulaplatz 24. Open 10am–noon,
this museum houses the tures, gold and ivory items and town’s finest Gothic houses. 3–5pm Mon, Tue & Thu–Sat, 10am–
archbishopric of Cologne’s sacral objects. noon, 3–4:30pm Wed, 3–4.30pm Sun.
collection of religious art. The R St Maria Lyskirchen This church was built in the 12th
building, which opened in 2007, R St Peter An Lyskirchen 12. century, on the site of an earlier
accommodates the ruins of the Leonhard­Tietz­Straße 6. Open 9am–6pm daily. church probably dating from
late Gothic church St Kolumba; a The late­Gothic church of St This, the smallest Romanesque around 400. In the late 13th
chapel built in the 1950s to house Peter is a galleried basilica, built church in Cologne, was built The attractive Romanesque church of St Kunibert, seen from the Rhine century the presbytery was
a statue of the Madonna which in 1515–39. Following its around 1220 and slightly re built in Gothic style. The
miraculously escaped bombing destruction in World remodelled in the 17th originally as a transept basilica R St Aposteln Baroque golden chamber at the
during World War II; and a unique War II, the former century. Its greatest with two choirs. In the mid-12th Neumarkt 30. Open 3–5pm Mon, southern end, added in the 17th
archeological excavation that was vaulting was attractions are century the west choir was 11am–1pm & 3–5pm Tue–Thu, century, is lined with many
made in the 1970s. replaced by a magnificent frescoes replaced by a massive frontage, 11am–1pm Fri. . shrines. According to legend,
ceiling. The of scenes from the but the towers were never added. The vast 12th-century church these hold the remains of St
E Schnütgen-Museum church’s greatest Bible, which adorn of the Apostles, which towers Ursula and 11,000 virgins, all of
Cäcilienstraße 29. Tel (0221) 22 12 23 attractions include the vaults (around R St Pantaleon over Neumarkt, is one of the whom were reputedly killed at
10. Open 10am–6pm Tue–Sun (to its Renaissance Detail from Stadtmuseum 1250), and the Am Pantaleonsberg 2. Open 9am– most interesting Romanesque the hands of the Huns. The town
8pm Thu). & stained­glass Schöne Madonna, 7pm Mon–Sat, noon–7:30pm Sun. churches in the Rhineland. The insignia of Cologne also testify to
The Romanesque church of windows (1528–30) and the a statue of the Virgin with the A little way from the centre is this original basilica has a trefoil the veneration of the virgins.
St Cecilia, built in 1130–60 as a magnificent Crucifixion of St Infant Christ (around 1420). exquisite church, a for mer eastern closure, a low tower at
nunnery, was taken over in 1479 Peter, pain ted after 1637 by Benedictine monastery founded the junction of the naves and R St Kunibert
by the Augustinian Sisters; Peter Paul Rubens, who spent E Imhoff-Stollwerck- around 950 by Archbishop a tall front tower. Two more slim Kunibertsklostergasse 2. Open 10am–
today it houses the Schnütgen­ his childhood here and whose Museum Bruno, brother of Emperor Otto I. turrets flank the presbytery apse. 1pm, 3–6pm Mon–Sat, 12.30–6pm Sun.
father lies buried in the church. (Schokoladen Museum) The archbishop and the Empress From here, Hahnen straße leads Bishop Kunibert was buried in
Rheinauhafen 1a. Tel (0221) 931 88 Theophanu, who completed the to Rudolfplatz and the Hahnentor, a church on this site in 663.
R St Maria im Kapitol 80. Open 10am–6pm Tue–Fri, building, are both buried here. perhaps the most beautiful of The present Romanesque
Marienplatz 19. Open 10am–6pm 11am–7pm Sat & Sun. & The church has a superb late- all surviving medieval gates. church (1215–47) has precious
Mon–Sat, 1–6pm Sun. This fantastic museum of Gothic choir screen with richly Romanesque stained-glass
Originally built in the early part chocolate explains the history carved ornamentation. R St Gereon windows (around 1220–30).
of the 11th century, as a convent, of cocoa bean cultivation as Gereonsdriesch 2–4. Open 10am–6pm
the church’s exten sion and well as the cultural significance, P Severinsviertel Mon–Fri, 10am–5pm Sat, 1–6pm Sun.
remodelling took until the early use and marketing of chocolate. The Severin Quarter, a district This church must be the most
13th century. Notew orthy are It also shows the production on the southern edge of the unusual edifice in all of Germany.
its extensive crypt and the mid­ process, and lets visitors sample old town, owes its name to the Its oldest part, an oval building
11th­century wooden door in the product. 13th-century Romanesque surrounded by small conchas,
the west closure, richly carved church of St Severinus. The was built in the late 4th century
with reliefs depicting scenes R St Georg church, largely remodelled in on the graves of martyrs and –
from the life of Christ. It also has Georgsplatz 17. the Gothic style in the 15th and accor ding to legend – founded
a superb Renaissance rood Open 8:30am–6pm daily. 16th centuries, features rich by St Helen. The Romanesque
The Romanesque church of St Gereon, screen, and is the only church in This church was built around original furnishings and has a presbytery is an 11th-century The medieval Hahnentor, exit from Cologne
with its vast dome Cologne with cloisters. the middle of the 11th century, mid-10th-century crypt. addition and, in 1219–27, the towards Aachen
Romanesque Churches Towerless Tower at the junction Pair of front towers
Cologne has 12 surviving Romanesque westwork Tower at the junction Front tower of the naves Stairway towers
of the naves
churches, bearing testimony to the flanking the west-
importance of the Church in the town’s Trefoil eastern Biforium work (frontage)
development. Built on the graves of closure
martyrs and early bishops of Cologne, Trefoil eastern
the forms of the churches influenced Semi-circular apse
the development of Romanesque closure
architecture well beyond the Rhineland.
Almost all the churches were damaged in
World War II. Some, such as the church of
St Kolumba, have not been restored, but
most were returned to their former glory. St Andreas St Aposteln Groß St Martin St Pantaleon St Kunibert

For hotels and restaurants in this area see pp500–501 and pp526–9


404-405_EW_Germany.indd 404 09/10/17 2:33 pm 404-405_EW_Germany.indd 405 09/10/17 2:33 pm
Eyewitness Travel LAYERS PRINTED:
Catalogue template “UK” LAYER
(Source v2.2)
Date 15th January 2013
Size 125mm x 217mm

C OL OGNE (K ÖLN)  405


oval was encircled with a ten-
sided, four-storey structure in
early-Gothic style. This is topped
with a vast dome, 48 m (157 ft)
in diameter, with ribbed vault.
R St Ursula
Ursulaplatz 24. Open 10am–noon,
3–5pm Mon, Tue & Thu–Sat, 10am–
noon, 3–4:30pm Wed, 3–4.30pm Sun.
This church was built in the 12th
century, on the site of an earlier
church probably dating from
around 400. In the late 13th
The attractive Romanesque church of St Kunibert, seen from the Rhine century the presbytery was
re built in Gothic style. The
originally as a transept basilica R St Aposteln Baroque golden chamber at the
with two choirs. In the mid-12th Neumarkt 30. Open 3–5pm Mon, southern end, added in the 17th
century the west choir was 11am–1pm & 3–5pm Tue–Thu, century, is lined with many
replaced by a massive frontage, 11am–1pm Fri. . shrines. According to legend,
but the towers were never added. The vast 12th-century church these hold the remains of St
of the Apostles, which towers Ursula and 11,000 virgins, all of
R St Pantaleon over Neumarkt, is one of the whom were reputedly killed at
Am Pantaleonsberg 2. Open 9am– most interesting Romanesque the hands of the Huns. The town
7pm Mon–Sat, noon–7:30pm Sun. churches in the Rhineland. The insignia of Cologne also testify to
A little way from the centre is this original basilica has a trefoil the veneration of the virgins.
exquisite church, a for mer eastern closure, a low tower at
Benedictine monastery founded the junction of the naves and R St Kunibert
around 950 by Archbishop a tall front tower. Two more slim Kunibertsklostergasse 2. Open 10am–
Bruno, brother of Emperor Otto I. turrets flank the presbytery apse. 1pm, 3–6pm Mon–Sat, 12.30–6pm Sun.
The archbishop and the Empress From here, Hahnen straße leads Bishop Kunibert was buried in
Theophanu, who completed the to Rudolfplatz and the Hahnentor, a church on this site in 663.
building, are both buried here. perhaps the most beautiful of The present Romanesque
The church has a superb late- all surviving medieval gates. church (1215–47) has precious
Gothic choir screen with richly Romanesque stained-glass
carved ornamentation. R St Gereon windows (around 1220–30).
Gereonsdriesch 2–4. Open 10am–6pm
P Severinsviertel Mon–Fri, 10am–5pm Sat, 1–6pm Sun.
The Severin Quarter, a district This church must be the most
on the southern edge of the unusual edifice in all of Germany.
old town, owes its name to the Its oldest part, an oval building
13th-century Romanesque surrounded by small conchas,
church of St Severinus. The was built in the late 4th century
church, largely remodelled in on the graves of martyrs and –
the Gothic style in the 15th and accor ding to legend – founded
16th centuries, features rich by St Helen. The Romanesque
original furnishings and has a presbytery is an 11th-century The medieval Hahnentor, exit from Cologne
mid-10th-century crypt. addition and, in 1219–27, the towards Aachen

Tower at the junction Pair of front towers
of the naves Stairway towers
flanking the west-
Biforium work (frontage)

Trefoil eastern Semi-circular apse
closure




Groß St Martin St Pantaleon St Kunibert





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406  WESTERN GERM AN Y C OL OGNE (K Ö LN)  407

Cologne Cathedral (Kölner Dom) . Gothic Stalls VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
The massive oak
The most famous Gothic structure in Germany, Pinnacles stalls, built in 1308–11, Practical Information
were the largest that
the Kölner Dom is also unusually complex, Elaborately have ever been made Cathedral: Open May–Oct: 6am–
decorated
whether in terms of its splendour, its size pinnacles top in Germany. 9pm; Nov–Apr: 6am–7.30pm.
Treasury: Domkloster 4. Tel (0221)
or even simply the date of its construction. the supporting 17 94 05 30. Open 10am–6pm
The foundation stone was laid on 15 August pillars. daily. 8 & Viewing platform:
1248, the presbytery consecrated in 1322. Open Jan, Feb & Nov, Dec: 9am–
The cathedral was built gradually until 4pm; Mar, Apr & Oct: 9am–5pm;
May–Sep: 9am–6pm. & Organ
around 1520. It then remained unfinished recitals: Jun–Aug: 8pm Tue.
until the 19th century, when Romanticists Exhibition of Rubens tapestries:
revived interest in it. The building Whit Sunday until Corpus Christi.
was finally completed in 1842–80,
according to the rediscovered,
original Gothic designs.








High Altar
The Gothic altar slab, which dates back
to the consecration of the presbytery,
depicts the Coronation of the Virgin Mary,
flanked by the 12 apostles.

. Shrine of the Three Kings
This huge Romanesque
reliquary was made by
Nikolaus von Verdun in
1190–1220, to hold the
Cathedral Interior relics of the Three Kings,
The presbytery, the ambulatory and which were brought to
the chapels retain a large number Cologne in 1164 for
of Gothic, mainly early-14th-century, Emperor Friedrich I
stained-glass windows.
Barbarossa. It is
decorated with
scenes from the
KEY Salvation History.
1 Petrusportal, or the portal of
St Peter, the only one built in the
second half of the 14th century,
has five Gothic figures.
2 Buttresses support the entire
bulk of the cathedral.
Main
3 Semicircular arches transfer entrance
the thrust of the vaults onto
the buttresses.
4 The contemporary German Mailänder
artist Gerhard Richter created an Madonna
abstract stained-glass collage in 2007. This fine early-Gothic
carving of the Milan
Madonna and
Engelbert Reliquary (around1630) Child dates from
The cathedral treasury is famous for its large . Altar of the Magi around 1290. It is
collection of golden objects, vestments and This splendid altar (around 1442), the work of Stephan Lochner, currently displayed
the fine ornamentation of its liturgical books. is dedicated to the Three Kings, the patrons of Cologne. in the Marienkapelle.
For hotels and restaurants in this area see pp500–501 and pp526–9


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C OL OGNE (K Ö LN)  407


. Gothic Stalls VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
The massive oak
stalls, built in 1308–11, Practical Information
were the largest that Cathedral: Open May–Oct: 6am–
have ever been made 9pm; Nov–Apr: 6am–7.30pm.
in Germany. Treasury: Domkloster 4. Tel (0221)
17 94 05 30. Open 10am–6pm
daily. 8 & Viewing platform:
Open Jan, Feb & Nov, Dec: 9am–
4pm; Mar, Apr & Oct: 9am–5pm;
May–Sep: 9am–6pm. & Organ
recitals: Jun–Aug: 8pm Tue.
Exhibition of Rubens tapestries:
Whit Sunday until Corpus Christi.













High Altar
The Gothic altar slab, which dates back
to the consecration of the presbytery,
depicts the Coronation of the Virgin Mary,
flanked by the 12 apostles.

. Shrine of the Three Kings
This huge Romanesque
reliquary was made by
Nikolaus von Verdun in
1190–1220, to hold the
relics of the Three Kings,
which were brought to
Cologne in 1164 for
Emperor Friedrich I
Barbarossa. It is
decorated with
scenes from the
Salvation History.










Mailänder
Madonna
This fine early-Gothic
carving of the Milan
Madonna and
Child dates from
. Altar of the Magi around 1290. It is
This splendid altar (around 1442), the work of Stephan Lochner, currently displayed
is dedicated to the Three Kings, the patrons of Cologne. in the Marienkapelle.




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Wallraf-Richartz-Museum & Fondation Corboud Gallery Guide VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
Each floor in the museum displays
This museum was named after Ferdinand Franz paintings belonging to one era. Practical Information
Wallraf, who bequeathed his art collection to the On the first floor, the exhibition Wallraf-Richartz-Museum
& Fondation Corboud: Oben-
city in 1824, and Johann Heinrich Richartz, who begins with a collection of marspforten 40. Tel (0221) 22
funded the first building. Medieval and early art dating from the 12 11 19. Open 10am–6pm
Middle Ages; the
modern paintings (1250 to 1550) form the core of second floor holds Tue–Sun & hols (to 10pm 1st
the collection. There are also works by Rubens 17th–18th century art, & 3rd Sun of month). = &
∑ wallraf.museum
and Rembrandt, as well as examples from and on the third floor
Impressionism, Realism and Symbolism. In 2001 works of art from the
the Wallraf-Richartz-Museum moved to a new 19th century are
building, incorporting many new works from the Bleaching the Linen (1882) displayed, organized
by the schools of art
collection of Gérard Corboud. Max Liebermann created this painting in the
early stages of his career, when his work was they represent.
largely concerned with Realism.
Girls on a Bridge (1905)
Third floor Edvard Munch covered the
same subject several times
(see p441). The version held
in Cologne is one of the
earliest, and features an
urbanized landscape.
. Stigmatization of Second
St Francis (around1616) floor
This dark and mysterious
painting, originally created by
Peter Paul Rubens for the
Capuchin church in Cologne, is Jacob accuses Laban
untyp ical of the artist’s work. of giving him Lai instead
of Rachel as a wife (1628)
This biblical scene was
painted by one of the
most outstanding
Reclining Girl (1751) Dutch masters, Hendrick
This young nude, ter Brugghen.
arranged on her
bed in a provocative
pose, is an example First floor
of the light-hearted
works of so-called
“boudoir art” in which
François Boucher
specialized.
Old Woman and Boy
(around 1650–60)
This scene was painted by
Bartolome Esteban Murillo.
Foyer The artist excelled not only as
the master of charmingly
sentimental depictions of the
Madonna, but was also an
excellent observer of every-
day life in 17th-century Spain.
Key
. Fifer and Drummer (1502–4) Medieval paintings
This subtle painting, the wing of an Madonna and Child (1325–30) 17th- and 18th-century
altarpiece, is the work of Albrecht This central panel of a polyptych paintings
Dürer, who included himself in the by Simone Martini is thought to 19th- and 20th-century
scene – the drummer is a self- have originated from the San paintings
portrait of Dürer himself. Main entrance Agostino church in San Giminiano. Non-exhibition space
For hotels and restaurants in this area see pp500–501 and pp526–9


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C OL OGNE (K ÖLN)  409


Gallery Guide VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
Each floor in the museum displays
paintings belonging to one era. Practical Information
On the first floor, the exhibition Wallraf-Richartz-Museum
begins with a collection of & Fondation Corboud: Oben-
marspforten 40. Tel (0221) 22
art dating from the 12 11 19. Open 10am–6pm
Middle Ages; the Tue–Sun & hols (to 10pm 1st
second floor holds & 3rd Sun of month). = &
17th–18th century art, ∑ wallraf.museum
and on the third floor
works of art from the
19th century are
displayed, organized
by the schools of art
they represent.

Girls on a Bridge (1905)
Third floor Edvard Munch covered the
same subject several times
(see p441). The version held
in Cologne is one of the
earliest, and features an
urbanized landscape.






Jacob accuses Laban
of giving him Lai instead
of Rachel as a wife (1628)
This biblical scene was
painted by one of the
most outstanding
Dutch masters, Hendrick
ter Brugghen.

First floor





Old Woman and Boy
(around 1650–60)
This scene was painted by
Bartolome Esteban Murillo.
The artist excelled not only as
the master of charmingly
sentimental depictions of the
Madonna, but was also an
excellent observer of every-
day life in 17th-century Spain.
Key
Medieval paintings
Madonna and Child (1325–30) 17th- and 18th-century
This central panel of a polyptych paintings
by Simone Martini is thought to 19th- and 20th-century
have originated from the San paintings
Agostino church in San Giminiano. Non-exhibition space




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410  WESTERN GERM AN Y NOR TH RHINE-WESTPHALIA  411


back to 830, when a Benedictine From here it is worth travelling
monastery was established another 23 km (14 miles) west
here. The present church is a to Bedburg, where the moated
12th­century Romanesque castle is worth seeing. This is a
basilica with impressive vast brick structure with four
11th­century frontage. Also wings, which was established
worth seeing are the Gothic in stages over 300 years,
town hall and a Romanesque starting in around 1300.
house, now housing a museum.
E Rheinisches Freilicht museum i Bonn
Kommern See p412.
Auf dem Kahlenbusch. Mechernich­
Bad Münstereifel is a pretty spa town in the valley of the river Erftl Kommern. Tel (02443) 998 00.
Open Apr–Oct: 9am–7pm daily; Nov–
y Northern Eifel building, decor ated in a way that Mar: 10am–5pm daily. & o Königswinter
reflects its purpose. One of the
Road map A4. n Hahplatz 1, 54595 Road map B4. * 35,000. £ @ n
Prüm (06551) 505. _ Bad Münster­ most interesting monuments of u Brühl Drachenfelsstraße 51 (02223-91 77 11).
eifel: Burg in Flammen (Jul). this region is the Steinfeld Phantasialand, one of the largest theme parks in Germany, near Brühl
monastery, with a history dating Road map B4. * 42,000. £ @ Königswinter lies in the centre
Barely 20 per cent of the Eifel from the 10th century. In 1121 n Uhlstraße 1 (02232­793 82). was designed by Balthasar + Augustusburg of the Siebengebirge, an
mountain range is in North the Augustinians settled here, _ Hubertusmarkt (Oct). Neumann. The castle is Tel (02232) 440 00. Open Feb–Nov: attractive range of small,
Rhine­Westphalia. Low, forested and in 1126 they accepted the surrounded by a Baroque park, 9am–noon & 1:30–4pm Tue–Fri, wooded mountains (the “seven
mountains line the valley of the rule of St Norbert of Xanten, The small town of Brühl has one designed by Dominique Girard. 10am–5pm Sat & Sun. mountains”), excellently suited
Rur river, which has been and this became the first of the most beautiful residential About 2 km (1 mile) east of + Falkenlust for walking. The most popular
dammed in several places. The monastery on German territory. complexes, since 1984 a UNESCO the main residence is another Tel (02232) 440 00. Open Feb–Nov: mountain is the Drachenfels
resulting artificial lakes provide a A beautiful Romanesque World Heri tage Site. As early as castle, Falkenlust, built in 1729– 9am–noon & 1:30–4pm Tue–Fri, (dragon’s rock). The oldest
perfect opportunity for relaxation basilica was built in the second the 13th century, a palace was 40, to a design by Cuvilliés. Its 10am–5pm Sat & Sun. mountain railway in Germany,
and sporting activities. There are half of the 12th century. It has established here for the arch­ captivating interior includes a  Phantasialand built in 1883, takes visitors to
also many attractive towns and retained wall paintings from the bishops of nearby Cologne, but lacquered and a mirror cabinet. Berggeiststraße 31–41. Tel (02232) 362 the top (321 m/1,053 ft). During
fascinating monuments. 12th and 14th centuries, and this was destroyed in 1689. A Nearby stands an octagonal 00. Open Apr–Oct: 9am–6pm daily, the ascent visitors can see the
Blankenheim is famed for its vaulted ceilings from the 16th Baroque palace, Augustusburg, chapel, its interior decoration later in summer. & Neo-Gothic Drachenburg, a
picturesque half­timbered century. The Rheinisches was built on its foundations in modelled on a secluded grotto. palace dating from 1879–84,
houses, the late­Gothic church Freilichtmuseum 1725–8, according It is also worth visiting the Environs and on the top are the ruins of
and the frequently modified Kommern is an to a design by small villa near Augustusburg Two moated houses await the the Gothic Drachenburg, dating
12th­century castle of the counts open­air museum Johann Conrad where the great Surrealist artist visitor at Kerpen, 27 km (17 from the 12th century. The
von Manderscheid­Blankenheim, with examples of Schlaun. It was Max Ernst was born. It now miles) to the north: the small “dragon” in the name relates to
which today is a youth hostel. the building styles named after the houses a small display 16th-century castle of Lörsfeld, the myth of the Nibelungs – the
The source of the Ahr river can typical of the instigator of the commemorating his work. and the Baroque palace of dragon slain by Siegfried was
also be seen here – a house was Northern Eifel. It is building, Elector Another attraction, which Türnich, built in 1756–66. supposed to have lived here.
built over the top of it in 1726. also worth visit ing Merry-go-round at the Klemens August. draws a large number of In Pulheim-Brauweiler, The little town of Königs winter,
In Schleiden, the castle, the town of Phantasialand in Brühl The building visitors is Phantasialand, 30 km (19 miles) to the north, at the foot of the mountains, has
built in the 12th century and Euskirchen, which was almost Germany’s largest theme park. is an extremely beautiful picturesque 17th-century half-
frequently rebuilt up until the has an attractive Gothic church immediately refurbished, with Several days are needed to Benedictine monastery, timbered houses, town houses
18th century, is worth visiting. with superb furnishings, and a new façade and furnishings, see all the attractions of this founded in 1024. Building and late 19th-century hotels.
There is also a late­Gothic church the moated castle of Veynau the work of François de vast fairground with its roller- began in 1048, funded by
with valuable stained­glass (14–15th centuries). The spa Cuvilliés, and in the 1940s a coaster, water-rides and merry- Rycheza, the wife of the Polish Environs
windows and an impressive town of Bad Mün stereifel dates new staircase was completed go-rounds. King Boleslav Chrobry. Bad Honnef, 6 km (4 miles)
organ dating from 1770. to a design by Balthasar to the south, is a charming
Probably the most beautiful Neumann. After devastation in spa town known as “Nice
town in this region is Monschau, World War II, the palace was on the Rhine”, where the
which until 1919 was called carefully restored, and the former chancellor Konrad
Montjoie. It is known also for the magnificently furnished late­ Adenauer lived until his death.
Montjoier Dütt chen (croissants) Baroque and Rococo interior, A museum commemorates
and an excellent mustard. The especially a stunning dining this great politician.
ruin of a 13th­century castle room designed by Cuvilliés, can Situated 15 km (9 miles) to
towers on a hill. At its foot, the now be seen again. A path the north is Siegburg, home to
Rur river runs through a narrow leads from the orangery to a a Benedictine monastery from
valley, with attractive small Gothic church built for the 1064 (closed to the public). The
towns, narrow, steep streets Franciscans in the 15th century. present church is a 17th-century
and timber­frame houses from The Annunciation on the high building, reconstructed after
various eras. In Hasenfeld visitors altar is the work of Johann World War II. The Anno-Schrein
can see a dam dating from 1904, The picturesque town of Monschau Wolfgang van der Auwer, while is a magnificent Romanesque
and an amazing hydro­electric preserves many historic buildings the magnificent canopy above The Baroque Schloß Augustusburg in Brühl reliquary box dating from 1183.
For hotels and restaurants in this area see pp500–501 and pp526–9


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NOR TH RHINE-WESTPHALIA  411


From here it is worth travelling
another 23 km (14 miles) west
to Bedburg, where the moated
castle is worth seeing. This is a
vast brick structure with four
wings, which was established
in stages over 300 years,
starting in around 1300.

i Bonn
See p412.

o Königswinter
Road map B4. * 35,000. £ @ n
Drachenfelsstraße 51 (02223-91 77 11).
Phantasialand, one of the largest theme parks in Germany, near Brühl
Königswinter lies in the centre
was designed by Balthasar + Augustusburg of the Siebengebirge, an
Neumann. The castle is Tel (02232) 440 00. Open Feb–Nov: attractive range of small,
surrounded by a Baroque park, 9am–noon & 1:30–4pm Tue–Fri, wooded mountains (the “seven
designed by Dominique Girard. 10am–5pm Sat & Sun. mountains”), excellently suited
About 2 km (1 mile) east of + Falkenlust for walking. The most popular
the main residence is another Tel (02232) 440 00. Open Feb–Nov: mountain is the Drachenfels
castle, Falkenlust, built in 1729– 9am–noon & 1:30–4pm Tue–Fri, (dragon’s rock). The oldest
40, to a design by Cuvilliés. Its 10am–5pm Sat & Sun. mountain railway in Germany,
captivating interior includes a  Phantasialand built in 1883, takes visitors to
lacquered and a mirror cabinet. Berggeiststraße 31–41. Tel (02232) 362 the top (321 m/1,053 ft). During
Nearby stands an octagonal 00. Open Apr–Oct: 9am–6pm daily, the ascent visitors can see the
chapel, its interior decoration later in summer. & Neo-Gothic Drachenburg, a
modelled on a secluded grotto. palace dating from 1879–84,
It is also worth visiting the Environs and on the top are the ruins of
small villa near Augustusburg Two moated houses await the the Gothic Drachenburg, dating
where the great Surrealist artist visitor at Kerpen, 27 km (17 from the 12th century. The
Max Ernst was born. It now miles) to the north: the small “dragon” in the name relates to
houses a small display 16th-century castle of Lörsfeld, the myth of the Nibelungs – the
commemorating his work. and the Baroque palace of dragon slain by Siegfried was
Another attraction, which Türnich, built in 1756–66. supposed to have lived here.
draws a large number of In Pulheim-Brauweiler, The little town of Königs winter,
visitors is Phantasialand, 30 km (19 miles) to the north, at the foot of the mountains, has
Germany’s largest theme park. is an extremely beautiful picturesque 17th-century half-
Several days are needed to Benedictine monastery, timbered houses, town houses
see all the attractions of this founded in 1024. Building and late 19th-century hotels.
vast fairground with its roller- began in 1048, funded by
coaster, water-rides and merry- Rycheza, the wife of the Polish Environs
go-rounds. King Boleslav Chrobry. Bad Honnef, 6 km (4 miles)
to the south, is a charming
spa town known as “Nice
on the Rhine”, where the
former chancellor Konrad
Adenauer lived until his death.
A museum commemorates
this great politician.
Situated 15 km (9 miles) to
the north is Siegburg, home to
a Benedictine monastery from
1064 (closed to the public). The
present church is a 17th-century
building, reconstructed after
World War II. The Anno-Schrein
is a magnificent Romanesque
The Baroque Schloß Augustusburg in Brühl reliquary box dating from 1183.




410-411_EW_Germany.indd 411 09/10/17 12:50 pm

412  WESTERN GERM AN Y NOR TH RHINE-WESTPHALIA  413

i Bonn Bonn opera house. Next to the P Regierungsviertel VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
opera is the Alter Zoll, the former Until 1999 this was the
Bonn was founded by the Romans in 11 BC, and flourished customs house, based in one of central authority of one Practical Information
thanks to the archbishops of Cologne. It gained fame the bastions that were part of of the most powerful Road map B4. * 310,000.
because of Ludwig van Beethoven, who was born here in the 17th-century city defences. countries in Europe. Now n Windeckstraße 1 (0228-77
50 00). _ Rhein in Flammen
1770, and Robert Schumann, who spent the final years of his P Universität it creates a somewhat (1st Sat in May), Museums-
desolate impression. Some
life here. The world heard of Bonn when, on 10 May 1949, it Am Hofgarten. ministries and offices have meilenfest (Jun), Beethovenfest
was elevated to the status of capital of the Federal Republic Founded in 1818, the university remained in Bonn, and the (Sep), Jahrmarkt “Pützchens
of Germany. When parliament decided in 1991 to make is based in what is probably transfer to Berlin is under Markt” (Sep). ∑ bonn.de
Berlin the capital of the newly unified country, Bonn was the most beautiful home for discussion, but the town Transport
£ Hauptbahnhof. @ ZOB.
deprived of its role, although six ministries stayed on. an educational institution is definitely changing. Autumn colours around a villa on the banks of the k Cologne-Bonn Konrad-Ade-
anywhere in Germany. The river Rhine in Bonn
stunningly attractive Baroque P Haus der Geschichte nauer Flughafen (02203-404 001).
outstanding feature is the late- castle was built for the Elector der BR Deutschland August Macke. Next to the
Baroque Rathaus (town hall), Joseph Klemens in 1607–1705, Willy-Brandt-Allee 14. Tel (0228) museum is the Kunst- und
built in 1737–8, to a design by to a design by Enrico Zuccalli, 916 50. Open 9am–7pm Tue–Fri, Ausstellung shalle, which + Poppelsdorf
Michel Leveilly. The centre of and extended after 1715 by 10am–6pm Sat & Sun. opened in 1992 as a venue for This leafy southwestern suburb
the market square is decor ated Robert de Cotte. This excellent free museum temporary exhibitions. is home to the Baroque Schloß
with the Marktbrunnen, a details the history of Germany Clemensruhe (1715–18). Both
fountain in the shape of an R Münster St Martin after World War II, with } Bad Godesberg the castle and its extensive park
obelisk, erected in 1777 in Münsterplatz. fascinating multi-media The small spa town of Bad with an attractive botanical
honour of the Elector Bonn’s cathedral is a magnifi- displays. It is one of the Godesberg was incorporated garden belong to the university.
Maximilian Friedrich. cent example of Romanesque architecturally impressive into Bonn in 1969. An elegant The Baroque pilgrimage
Not far from the Markt are architecture in the Rhine Valley. buildings which form Bonn’s neighbourhood, its villas line church on the Kreuzberg, a
some churches worth seeing. The church was built in “Museums Mile”. the spa park. On top of the hill low hill, houses the chapel
The first is the Gothic around 1150–1230, on is the Godesburg, a ruined of the Holy Steps, attributed
Remigius kirche, built the site of an earlier E Kunstmuseum Bonn 13th-century castle. to Balthasar Neumann.
The Baroque portal of the Beethovenhaus for the Franciscans in 11th-century Friedrich-Ebert-Allee 2. Tel (0228) 77
in Bonn the years 1274–1317, cathedral, of which 62 60. Open 11am–6pm Tue–Sun,
and the second is a three-naved 11am–9pm Wed. Closed 24, 25 & 31
P Beethovenhaus the Baroque Namen- crypt has survived. Dec; Sat, Sun & Mon in carnival. &
Bonngasse 18–26. Tel (0228) 981 75 Jesu-Kirche built for South of it, the romantic This superb museum of
25. Open Apr–Oct: 10am–6pm daily; the Jesuits according to 12th-century Roman- 20th-century art, in an inter-
Nov–Mar: 10am–5pm Mon–Sat, a design by Jacob esque cloister is also esting building designed by
11am–5pm Sun. & ∑ beethoven- de Candreal in the worth seeing. Axel Schultes, has a great collec-
haus-bonn.de years 1686–1717. tion of Expressionist pain tings,
The museum is housed in the E Rheinisches including many works by The Baroque Schloß Clemensruhe, in Poppelsdorf
Baroque 18th-century house P Rheinufer Landesmuseum
where the composer Ludwig The Rhine embank ment, Gold clasps in Colmantstraße 14–16. 0 metres 300
van Beethoven was born and which changes its the Rheinisches Tel (0228) 20 700. Bonn City Centre Flughafen
13 km (8 miles)
lived until the age of 22. There is name several times Landesmuseum Open 11am–6pm Tue–Fri & 1 Beethovenhaus WACHSBLEIC HE Beethoven- 0 yards 300
halle
a large and impressive collection along its course, runs Sun, 1–6pm Sat. & WELSCHNON-
of me morabilia from his life. along the western bank ∑ landesmuseum-bonn.lvr.de 2 Markt NENSTRASSE THEATERSTRASSE
of the Rhine. Many of Bonn’s This interesting regional 3 Rheinufer
P Markt attractions are grouped along museum has a vast collection 4 Universität HATSCHIERGASSE
The central market square in this street. To the north of Ken- of excavated items dating back 5 Münster St Martin JOSEFSTRASSE ERZBERGERUFER
Bonn, shaped like a triangle, nedybrücke (Kennedy bridge) to Roman times, as well as SANDKAULE
owes its present appearance lies the Beethovenhalle, a vast medieval and modern art. The WIL HELMSTR. KASERNENSTR. BERLINER FREIHEIT Kennedy-
to a mixture of modern and concert and congress hall, and skull of a Neanderthal Man is OXFORDSTRASSE B.-v.- Brücke
Baroque architecture. Its most to the south of the bridge is the also exhibited here. Suttner-Pl.
Stadthaus FRIEDRICHSTRASSE BONNGASSE Beethoven- Oper
Haus RHEINGASSE
STERNSTRASSE MARKT RATHAUSG. Rhein
THOMAS-MANN-STR. WINDECKSTRA SSE VIVATSGASSE REMIGIUSSTR. AM HOF Rathaus STOCKENSTRASSE KONVIKTSTR. B R A S S E R T U F E R
DREIE C K ACHERSTRASSE
BELDERBERG
Haupt- Universität
RABIN STR.
bahnhof GANGOLFSTR. St Martin Hofgarten
Münster
BACHS TRASSE COLMANT- AM HAUPTBAHNHOF REGINA-PACIS-WEG Akademisches ADENAUERALLEE
HERWARTHSTR.
Kunstmuseum
Haupt-
Rheinisches STRASSE bahnhof AM HOFGARTEN UFER
Landesmuseum QUANTIUSSTR. KAISERSTR.
RATHENAU-
Ehemaliges (former) Regierungsviertel,
The Baroque Elector’s palace, housing Bonn University POPPELSDORF Haus der Geschichte der BR Deutschland,
Kunstmuseum Bonn
BAD GODESBERG
For hotels and restaurants in this area see pp500–501 and pp526–9 For keys to symbols see back flap
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NOR TH RHINE-WESTPHALIA  413


P Regierungsviertel VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
Until 1999 this was the
central authority of one Practical Information
of the most powerful Road map B4. * 310,000.
countries in Europe. Now n Windeckstraße 1 (0228-77
it creates a somewhat 50 00). _ Rhein in Flammen
desolate impression. Some (1st Sat in May), Museums-
ministries and offices have meilenfest (Jun), Beethovenfest
remained in Bonn, and the (Sep), Jahrmarkt “Pützchens
transfer to Berlin is under Markt” (Sep). ∑ bonn.de
discussion, but the town Transport
is definitely changing. Autumn colours around a villa on the banks of the £ Hauptbahnhof. @ ZOB.
river Rhine in Bonn k Cologne-Bonn Konrad-Ade-
P Haus der Geschichte nauer Flughafen (02203-404 001).
der BR Deutschland August Macke. Next to the
Willy-Brandt-Allee 14. Tel (0228) museum is the Kunst- und
916 50. Open 9am–7pm Tue–Fri, Ausstellung shalle, which + Poppelsdorf
10am–6pm Sat & Sun. opened in 1992 as a venue for This leafy southwestern suburb
This excellent free museum temporary exhibitions. is home to the Baroque Schloß
details the history of Germany Clemensruhe (1715–18). Both
after World War II, with } Bad Godesberg the castle and its extensive park
fascinating multi-media The small spa town of Bad with an attractive botanical
displays. It is one of the Godesberg was incorporated garden belong to the university.
architecturally impressive into Bonn in 1969. An elegant The Baroque pilgrimage
buildings which form Bonn’s neighbourhood, its villas line church on the Kreuzberg, a
“Museums Mile”. the spa park. On top of the hill low hill, houses the chapel
is the Godesburg, a ruined of the Holy Steps, attributed
E Kunstmuseum Bonn 13th-century castle. to Balthasar Neumann.
Friedrich-Ebert-Allee 2. Tel (0228) 77
62 60. Open 11am–6pm Tue–Sun,
11am–9pm Wed. Closed 24, 25 & 31
Dec; Sat, Sun & Mon in carnival. &
This superb museum of
20th-century art, in an inter-
esting building designed by
Axel Schultes, has a great collec-
tion of Expressionist pain tings,
including many works by The Baroque Schloß Clemensruhe, in Poppelsdorf

Bonn City Centre Flughafen 0 metres 300
13 km (8 miles)
WACHSBLEIC HE Beethoven- 0 yards 300
1 Beethovenhaus halle
2 Markt NENSTRASSE THEATERSTRASSE
3 Rheinufer
WELSCHNON-
4 Universität HATSCHIERGASSE
5 Münster St Martin ERZBERGERUFER
JOSEFSTRASSE
WIL HELMSTR. KASERNENSTR. OXFORDSTRASSE B.-v.- BERLINER FREIHEIT Kennedy-
Brücke
SANDKAULE
FRIEDRICHSTRASSE Suttner-Pl.
Stadthaus BONNGASSE Beethoven- Oper
Haus RHEINGASSE
STERNSTRASSE MARKT RATHAUSG. Rhein
THOMAS-MANN-STR. WINDECKSTRA SSE VIVATSGASSE REMIGIUSSTR. AM HOF Rathaus STOCKENSTRASSE KONVIKTSTR. B R A S S E R T U F E R
DREIE C K ACHERSTRASSE
BELDERBERG
Haupt- Universität
RABIN STR.
bahnhof GANGOLFSTR. St Martin Hofgarten
Münster
BACHS TRASSE COLMANT- AM HAUPTBAHNHOF REGINA-PACIS-WEG Kunstmuseum ADENAUERALLEE
HERWARTHSTR.
Akademisches
Haupt-
Rheinisches STRASSE bahnhof AM HOFGARTEN UFER
Landesmuseum QUANTIUSSTR. KAISERSTR.
RATHENAU-
Ehemaliges (former) Regierungsviertel,
Haus der Geschichte der BR Deutschland,
POPPELSDORF Kunstmuseum Bonn
BAD GODESBERG
For keys to symbols see back flap
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414  WESTERN GERM AN Y NOR TH RHINE-WESTPHALIA  415


with a presbytery and tower, Freilichtmuseum, a popular Petrikirche with its Gothic decorated bishops’ tombs and
which served as the ducal open-air museum, which presbytery, and the 12th- epitaphs. The diocesan museum
family mausoleum. displays many historic century Nicolaikapelle, a holds the Imad-Madonna,
workshops and factories with chapel with 13th-century wall funded by Bishop Imad, an
Environs reconstructed equipment. pain tings and an altar painted outstanding figure of the
In Freudenberg, 10 km (6 miles) by Konrad von Soest. Madonna and Child dating from
northwest of Siegen, is the In the northern part of the old 1051–8. On the northern side of
small settlement of Alter s Sauerland town, two churches are worth the cathedral a section of the
Flecken, which is reproduced Road map B4. n Sauerland-Touristik, seeing: the Hohne kirche with foundations of the emperor’s
in virtually all German guide- Johannes-Hummel-Weg 1, 57392 beautiful Gothic and early palace can be seen, together
books. Founded in 1666 at Schmallenberg (02974-20 21 90). Baroque furnishings, and the with the Bartholomäuskapelle
The medieval Oberes Schloß in Siegen the instigation of Duke Johann Bad Fredeburg features typical Sauerland Wiesenkirche with a (chapel of St Bartholomew), the
Moritz von Nassau, the village The Sauerland is the region to half-timbered architecture magnificent group of stained- oldest hall-church in Germany,
p Siegen consists of identical half- the south and east of the Ruhr glass windows from the 14th completed in 1017. To the south
timbered houses. coalfields, making an obvious The 14th-century Schloß Wock- and 15th centuries. The of the cathedral complex,
Road map B4. * 100,000. £ @
n Markt 2 (0271-404 13 16). holiday destination for the lum in Balve was rebuilt in the window above the on Rathausplatz, is
_ Kultur Pur (May/Jun), Rubensfest a Hagen inhabitants of this large, 18th century. One of the greatest northern portal the exceptionally
(Jun/Jul), Weihnachtsmarkt (Dec). industrialized conurbation. tourist draws in the Sauerland is shows the beautiful Rathaus
Embracing the northern part the Möhnesee, a lake with a so-called (town hall) dating
Road map B4. * 210,950. £ @
Beautifully located amid the hills n Körnerstraße 25 (02331-809 99 80). of the Rhenish slate massif, its huge dam, built in 1908–12 and Westphalian Last from 1613–20.
on the high banks of the Sieg _ Marktschreiertage (Jan). densely wooded mountains are bombed by Allied “dambusters” Supper, An example
river, Siegen is the largest town not high – the highest peak is in 1943 with catastrophic depicting a table of the Weser-
in the Siegerland region. For Hagen would probably not Hegekopf at 843 m (2,766 ft). consequences. Arnsberg has laden with plentiful Renaissance style, it
centuries the city was the resi- feature in the guidebooks, were Crossed by rivers teeming with a regional museum and the Westphalian smoked is crowned with richly
dence of the dukes of Nassau. it not for Karl Ernst Ost haus, fish and full of artificial lakes, lovely Neo-Gothic moated castle ham and local The ‘Three Hares’ emblem in ornamented gables.
Religious divisions in the family who created an artists’ colony the area is perfect for walking, Herdringen with assorted pumpernickel bread. Paderborn’s cathedral cloister The Heinz-Nixdorf-
resulted in two castles being here at the beginning of the cycling and fishing. furnishings from other castles. Museumsforum
built in Siegen. The Oberes 20th century, inviting Art Enjoyable days can be had on In the south are the Rothaar- Environ provides a pleasant break
Schloß (upper castle) is a Nouveau designers such as an excursion to one of the caves gebirge (red-haired moun tains). In Lippstadt, 23 km (14 miles) from the past – this museum
medieval building, frequently Peter Behrens and Henry van such as Attahöhle, Dechen­ Their most beautiful town is the east of Soest, it is worth visiting is dedicated to the history
refurbished in the 16th, 17th der Velde. The magnificent höhle and Heinrichshöhle near spa resort of Bad Berleburg, the Gothic Marienkirche. In the of computers.
and 18th centuries. The museum, Hohenhof, Osthaus’ home, was Iserlohn. There are charming while the Kahler Asten mountain suburb of Bökenförde is the
which has been opened inside created by van der Velde. It towns, too, and in Breckerfeld, and the town of Winterberg are 18th-century Baroque moated Environs
the castle, has some paintings houses the Karl­Ernst­Osthaus­ the Gothic parish church has popular winter sports areas. palace Schwarzenraben, and Near Stukenbrock, 15 km
by Peter Paul Rubens, who was Museum, with a collection of preserved a superb altar, from there is an early-Baroque castle (9 miles) north of Paderborn, is
born in Siegen. The lower modern art. Behrens designed around 1520. The main attraction in Overhagen. the theme park Hollywood-Park
Unteres Schloß is a Baroque the crematorium in the suburb in Altena is the superb, gigantic d Soest and the fascinating Safariland,
palace, which replaced an of Delstern and the beautiful Burg (castle), built in the 12th Road map B4. * 50,000. £ @ where more than 500 African
earlier building. In the centre villas Haus Cuno (Haßleyer century and restored in the n Teichsmühlengasse 3 (02921-66 f Paderborn animals roam freely.
of Siegen it is also worth visiting Straße 35) and Haus Goedeke early 20th century. In 1910 the 35 00 50). _ Bördetag (May), Road map C3. * 140,000. £ @
the Nikolaikirche, a 13th- (Amselgasse). In the south of world’s first youth hostel for Gauklertag (Sep), Jahrmarkt n Marienplatz 2 (05251-88 29 80).
century hexagonal church the town is the Westfälisches tourists was created here. Allerheiligenkirmes (Nov). ∑ soest.de _ Puppenfestspiele (Feb),
Schützenfest (Jul), Liborifest (Jul–Aug),
The Westphalian town of Soest Liborikirmes (Oct).
made its mark in history when,
in about 1100, the town’s civic Paderborn has featured on the
rights were formulated and historical map for over 1,000
subsequently adopted by 65 years. In the 8th century
other towns. Today the town Charlemagne built a palace
captivates visitors with its well- here, and in about AD 800,
preserved old town, its historic a bishopric was established.
churches, and the almost The town’s most important
completely intact walls which monument is the beautiful
surround the town. The focus Dom St Maria, St Kilian und St
of the old town is the Liborius, a Romanesque-Gothic
Romanesque Propsteikirche cathedral. This enormous hall-
St Patrokli, founded in 965 by church with two transepts and
Bruno, archbishop of Cologne, tall front tower suffered greatly
and built in stages until the during World War II, but it
13th century. Further historic continues to captivate visitors
buildings are grouped around with its magnificent decor on
the church: the 18th-century, the richly carved portal, the
Baroque Rathaus (town hall), great Romanesque crypt, Tower of the Romanesque-Gothic Dom
Willingen, in Sauerland, is a popular summer tourism and winter sports destination the 12th-century Romanesque interesting plaques and richly in Paderborn
For hotels and restaurants in this area see pp500–501 and pp526–9


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NOR TH RHINE-WESTPHALIA  415


Petrikirche with its Gothic decorated bishops’ tombs and
presbytery, and the 12th- epitaphs. The diocesan museum
century Nicolaikapelle, a holds the Imad-Madonna,
chapel with 13th-century wall funded by Bishop Imad, an
pain tings and an altar painted outstanding figure of the
by Konrad von Soest. Madonna and Child dating from
In the northern part of the old 1051–8. On the northern side of
town, two churches are worth the cathedral a section of the
seeing: the Hohne kirche with foundations of the emperor’s
beautiful Gothic and early palace can be seen, together
Baroque furnishings, and the with the Bartholomäuskapelle
Bad Fredeburg features typical Sauerland Wiesenkirche with a (chapel of St Bartholomew), the
half-timbered architecture magnificent group of stained- oldest hall-church in Germany,
glass windows from the 14th completed in 1017. To the south
The 14th-century Schloß Wock- and 15th centuries. The of the cathedral complex,
lum in Balve was rebuilt in the window above the on Rathausplatz, is
18th century. One of the greatest northern portal the exceptionally
tourist draws in the Sauerland is shows the beautiful Rathaus
the Möhnesee, a lake with a so-called (town hall) dating
huge dam, built in 1908–12 and Westphalian Last from 1613–20.
bombed by Allied “dambusters” Supper, An example
in 1943 with catastrophic depicting a table of the Weser-
consequences. Arnsberg has laden with plentiful Renaissance style, it
a regional museum and the Westphalian smoked is crowned with richly
lovely Neo-Gothic moated castle ham and local The ‘Three Hares’ emblem in ornamented gables.
Herdringen with assorted pumpernickel bread. Paderborn’s cathedral cloister The Heinz-Nixdorf-
furnishings from other castles. Museumsforum
In the south are the Rothaar- Environ provides a pleasant break
gebirge (red-haired moun tains). In Lippstadt, 23 km (14 miles) from the past – this museum
Their most beautiful town is the east of Soest, it is worth visiting is dedicated to the history
spa resort of Bad Berleburg, the Gothic Marienkirche. In the of computers.
while the Kahler Asten mountain suburb of Bökenförde is the
and the town of Winterberg are 18th-century Baroque moated Environs
popular winter sports areas. palace Schwarzenraben, and Near Stukenbrock, 15 km
there is an early-Baroque castle (9 miles) north of Paderborn, is
in Overhagen. the theme park Hollywood-Park
d Soest and the fascinating Safariland,
where more than 500 African
Road map B4. * 50,000. £ @ f Paderborn
n Teichsmühlengasse 3 (02921-66 animals roam freely.
35 00 50). _ Bördetag (May), Road map C3. * 140,000. £ @
Gauklertag (Sep), Jahrmarkt n Marienplatz 2 (05251-88 29 80).
Allerheiligenkirmes (Nov). ∑ soest.de _ Puppenfestspiele (Feb),
Schützenfest (Jul), Liborifest (Jul–Aug),
The Westphalian town of Soest Liborikirmes (Oct).
made its mark in history when,
in about 1100, the town’s civic Paderborn has featured on the
rights were formulated and historical map for over 1,000
subsequently adopted by 65 years. In the 8th century
other towns. Today the town Charlemagne built a palace
captivates visitors with its well- here, and in about AD 800,
preserved old town, its historic a bishopric was established.
churches, and the almost The town’s most important
completely intact walls which monument is the beautiful
surround the town. The focus Dom St Maria, St Kilian und St
of the old town is the Liborius, a Romanesque-Gothic
Romanesque Propsteikirche cathedral. This enormous hall-
St Patrokli, founded in 965 by church with two transepts and
Bruno, archbishop of Cologne, tall front tower suffered greatly
and built in stages until the during World War II, but it
13th century. Further historic continues to captivate visitors
buildings are grouped around with its magnificent decor on
the church: the 18th-century, the richly carved portal, the
Baroque Rathaus (town hall), great Romanesque crypt, Tower of the Romanesque-Gothic Dom
the 12th-century Romanesque interesting plaques and richly in Paderborn




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418  WESTERN GERM AN Y NOR TH RHINE-WESTPHALIA  419


a Gothic church built for the is the Hexenbürgermeisterhaus. in 1838–75. It was supposed to
Franciscans in 1248–1320. This “witches’ mayor’s house” symbolize the German struggle
The city’s greatest attraction, (1571), an excellent example of for unification.
however, is the magnificent Weser Renaissance, belonged to Two fascinating attractions
Abtei Corvey, a monastery the mayor, Hermann Cothmann, near Detmold are the
founded in 822. It was originally who started the witch hunt. It Adlerwarte Berlebeck, an
built as the church of St Stephen now houses a town museum. ornithological research station,
and St Vitus, but only the Also worth visiting are the where eagles and many other
grandiose two-storey frontage Junkerhaus (1891), the birds of prey can be observed,
completed in 885 survived. It architect’s home, and Schloß and the Vogelpark Heiligen­
became the model for several Brake (13th–16th centuries), a kirchen, a bird park with over
other churches built in castle which now houses the 2,000 vari eties of birds in all
Westphalia, while the main Weserrenaissance-Museum. shapes and sizes from around
body of the church was rebuilt the world.
in the 17th century. E Weserrenaissance-Museum
Schloß Brake. Tel (05261) 945 00.
Open 10am–6pm Tue–Sun. & k Bielefeld
h Lemgo The Wasserstraßenkreuzung (waterway junction) in Minden
Road map C3. * 325,000.
Road map C3. * 42,000. £ @ j Teutoburger Wald £ @ n Niederwall 23 l Minden
n Kramerstraße 1. (05261-988 70). (0521-51 69 99). _ Hermann- church holds the tomb of one
Front of the early-Romanesque Abtei (Teutoburg Forest) slauf (Apr), Leinenweber- of the von Ravensberg dukes Road map C3. * 85,000. £ @
Corvey in Höxter This exceptionally pretty town Markt (May), Bielefelder Kultur- (around 1320) and a high altar n Domstraße 2 (0571-829 06 59).
was founded in 1190 by Road map C3. n Detmold, Rathaus Sommer (May–Sep), Sparren- (from around 1400) with a
g Höxter Bernhard II von Lippe. It was a Am Markt 5 (05231-97 73 28). burgfest (Jul), Weinmarkt central Gothic section. _ Klassik-Open-Air (Jul/Aug).
member of the Hanseatic _ Sommerbühne (Aug), Andreas- (Sep), Weihnachtsmarkt (Dec). Charlemagne created a
Road map C3. * 35,000. £ @ Messe in Detmold (Nov).
n Weserstraße 11 (05271-194 33). League, and had its heyday Environs bishopric here as early as 798.
_ Corveyer Musikwochen (May– during the witch hunts of the On the edge of the Picturesque Herford, The town evolved thanks to
Jun), Huxorimarkt (Sep), 17th century. Today, Lemgo has A range of low mountains Teutoburg Forest, Bielefeld 17 km (11 miles) north of its strategic location on the
Kirchenmusiktage (Nov–Dec). numerous Renaissance extending from Osnabrück owes its evo lution to the Bielefeld, has timber- Weser river. The city’s most
monuments – it was spared through Bielefeld right up to production of and trading frame houses, beautiful important monument is the
In a picturesque spot on the during World War II, and the Paderborn, the Teutoburg Forest in linen. The old town is Gothic churches and cathedral, Dompfarrkirche
Weser river, Höxter can pride Gothic Nicolaikirche and is one of the most attractive dominated by the MARTa Herford, an art St Petrus und St Gorgonius.
itself on its beautiful old town Marienkirche, with Gothic wall tourist regions in Westphalia. Sparrenburg castle, built in and design museum It has a Romanesque presbytery,
with many timber-frame houses, paintings and a Renaissance The best base for walking and the 13th century for the von by Frank O Gehry. In transept and monumental
fragments of the city walls, a organ by Georg Slegel, have cycling holidays is Detmold, Ravensberg family. In the Enger, 21 km (13 miles) frontage built in the 11th–12th
Renaissance Rathaus (town survived. The pearl of the city is which has a very attractive 1500s the castle was to the north, in the centuries, although the body
hall) from 1610, and important the beautiful Rathaus (town old town with well-preserved surrounded by new former church of the of the church is an example of
churches. The history of hall), built in the 15th–17th timber-frame buildings from fortifications including canons, a tomb early-Gothic style from the
Kilianikirche, in the centre of centuries. It contains an original various periods, and the elegant new bastions, and in the Hermannsdenkmal, dating from 1100 13th century. It is worth visi ting
the old town, goes back to pharmacy that is still in use. Residenz schloß, the castle of 19th century the near Detmold holds the remains the church treasury with its
the late 8th century, Many timber-frame houses the zur Lippe family. Originally residential part of the city of the Saxon Duke 11th-century crucifix.
although in its present have also survived, the best medieval, the palace was rebuilt was greatly extended. Widukind, buried in 807. The Rathaus (town hall),
form it is a Romanesque ones in Papen-, Mittel- and in the 16th century in the Weser- The central feature of the old The spa town of Bad Salz­ with 13th-century lower
building from the Echternstraße. The most Renaissance style. The interior is town is Alter Markt (old market), uflen, with its pretty old town sections, is worth seeing, as
11th–12th centuries. beautiful house in Lemgo composed of 17th and 19th with the Nicolaikirche. This and spa, is ideal for relaxation. are Minden’s many charming
Also in the centre of century furnishings. The star Gothic church suffered heavily houses around the market
Höxter is feature is a set of eight Gobe lins in World War II, although the square. A great attraction is the
tapestries, crafted in Brussels marvellous Antwerp altar Wasserstraßen kreuz (waterway
around 1670, showing scenes of (around 1520) was pre served. junction), where a 375-m
Alexander the Great’s triumphs. Nearby, on Obernstraße, stands (1,230-ft) long bridge takes
Furnishings from the 19th the Crüwell­Haus, an inter- the Mittellandkanal across
century include designs by esting late-Gothic town house the Weser river.
Charles Le Brun. from the early 16th century. The
Three km (2 miles) south of street leads to St Jodo kus­ Environs
Detmold is the spot where in Kirche, a late-Gothic church, On top of a hill in Porta
the year AD 9 Cherusko Armi- whose greatest treasure is the Westfalica, 6 km (4 miles) south
nius, known as Hermann, leader amazing figure of the Black of Minden, is a giant monument
of the Germanic tribes, Madonna (around 1220). to Kaiser Wilhelm (1892–6) by
triumphed against the Roman Further south is the Kunst halle, Bruno Schmitz.
army led by Varus. At the a modern building with a signi- The Westfälische Mühlen­
top of the mountain, the ficant collection of 20th-century straße, (Westphalian mill route),
Hermanns denkmal, a huge art. It is also worth visiting the signposted around Minden,
monument designed by Ernst Marienkirche in the new town. An observation tower in the Sparrenburg takes visitors past 42 different
The picturesque Renaissance Rathaus in Höxter von Bandel, was erected Built in 1280–1330, this Gothic complex in Bielefeld mills and windmills.
The Beethoven Monument on the Münsterplatz, Bonn For hotels and restaurants in this area see pp500–501 and pp526–9



418-419_EW_Germany.indd 418 09/10/17 12:50 pm 418-419_EW_Germany.indd 419 09/10/17 12:50 pm

NOR TH RHINE-WESTPHALIA  419


in 1838–75. It was supposed to
symbolize the German struggle
for unification.
Two fascinating attractions
near Detmold are the
Adlerwarte Berlebeck, an
ornithological research station,
where eagles and many other
birds of prey can be observed,
and the Vogelpark Heiligen­
kirchen, a bird park with over
2,000 vari eties of birds in all
shapes and sizes from around
the world.
k Bielefeld
Road map C3. * 325,000. The Wasserstraßenkreuzung (waterway junction) in Minden
£ @ n Niederwall 23
(0521-51 69 99). _ Hermann- church holds the tomb of one l Minden
slauf (Apr), Leinenweber- of the von Ravensberg dukes Road map C3. * 85,000. £ @
Markt (May), Bielefelder Kultur- (around 1320) and a high altar n Domstraße 2 (0571-829 06 59).
Sommer (May–Sep), Sparren- (from around 1400) with a _ Klassik-Open-Air (Jul/Aug).
burgfest (Jul), Weinmarkt central Gothic section.
(Sep), Weihnachtsmarkt (Dec). Charlemagne created a
Environs bishopric here as early as 798.
On the edge of the Picturesque Herford, The town evolved thanks to
Teutoburg Forest, Bielefeld 17 km (11 miles) north of its strategic location on the
owes its evo lution to the Bielefeld, has timber- Weser river. The city’s most
production of and trading frame houses, beautiful important monument is the
in linen. The old town is Gothic churches and cathedral, Dompfarrkirche
dominated by the MARTa Herford, an art St Petrus und St Gorgonius.
Sparrenburg castle, built in and design museum It has a Romanesque presbytery,
the 13th century for the von by Frank O Gehry. In transept and monumental
Ravensberg family. In the Enger, 21 km (13 miles) frontage built in the 11th–12th
1500s the castle was to the north, in the centuries, although the body
surrounded by new former church of the of the church is an example of
fortifications including canons, a tomb early-Gothic style from the
new bastions, and in the Hermannsdenkmal, dating from 1100 13th century. It is worth visi ting
19th century the near Detmold holds the remains the church treasury with its
residential part of the city of the Saxon Duke 11th-century crucifix.
was greatly extended. Widukind, buried in 807. The Rathaus (town hall),
The central feature of the old The spa town of Bad Salz­ with 13th-century lower
town is Alter Markt (old market), uflen, with its pretty old town sections, is worth seeing, as
with the Nicolaikirche. This and spa, is ideal for relaxation. are Minden’s many charming
Gothic church suffered heavily houses around the market
in World War II, although the square. A great attraction is the
marvellous Antwerp altar Wasserstraßen kreuz (waterway
(around 1520) was pre served. junction), where a 375-m
Nearby, on Obernstraße, stands (1,230-ft) long bridge takes
the Crüwell­Haus, an inter- the Mittellandkanal across
esting late-Gothic town house the Weser river.
from the early 16th century. The
street leads to St Jodo kus­ Environs
Kirche, a late-Gothic church, On top of a hill in Porta
whose greatest treasure is the Westfalica, 6 km (4 miles) south
amazing figure of the Black of Minden, is a giant monument
Madonna (around 1220). to Kaiser Wilhelm (1892–6) by
Further south is the Kunst halle, Bruno Schmitz.
a modern building with a signi- The Westfälische Mühlen­
ficant collection of 20th-century straße, (Westphalian mill route),
art. It is also worth visiting the signposted around Minden,
Marienkirche in the new town. An observation tower in the Sparrenburg takes visitors past 42 different
Built in 1280–1330, this Gothic complex in Bielefeld mills and windmills.
For hotels and restaurants in this area see pp500–501 and pp526–9


418-419_EW_Germany.indd 419 09/10/17 12:50 pm

NORTHERN


GERMANY





Introducing
Northern Germany 422–427
Lower Saxony,
Hamburg and Bremen 428–457
Schleswig-Holstein 458–469
Mecklenburg–
Lower Pomerania 470–485












































420-421_EW_Germany.indd 420 09/10/17 2:33 pm 420-421_EW_Germany.indd 421 09/10/17 2:33 pm
Eyewitness Travel LAYERS PRINTED:
Section openers template “UK” LAYER
(SourceReport v1.1)
Date 15th November 2012
Size 125mm x 217mm

NORTHERN


GERMANY





Introducing
Northern Germany 422–427
Lower Saxony,
Hamburg and Bremen 428–457
Schleswig-Holstein 458–469
Mecklenburg–
Lower Pomerania 470–485












































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422  NOR THERN GERM AN Y INTRODUCING NOR THERN GERM AN Y  423

Northern Germany at a Glance

Northern Germany has very varied landscapes, ranging
from the sandy beaches on the Baltic and North Sea
coasts to the moraine hills of Schleswig-Holstein and the
moorlands of the Lüneburger Heide. Nature-lovers are
enchanted by the countless lakes in Mecklenburg and
the Harz mountains, while those interested in history
or architecture enjoy the Renaissance castles along the
Weser River and the Gothic brick architecture in former
Hanseatic towns. Historic buildings in Goslar and Locator Map
Hildesheim testify to the importance of these two towns.
NiebüllNiebüll Fehmarn, one of the largest of the German islands, is
FlensburgFlensburg linked with the German mainland by a railway bridge
constructed in 1963. Rügen enchants visitors
Helgoland is a popular with its chalky white
tourist destination. Red cliffs SchleswigSchleswig cliffs, which contrast
as high as skyscrapers, a starkly with the deep
picturesque town and the blues and greens of
sea aquarium are the star SCHLESWIG-SCHLESWIG- KielKiel StralsundStralsund the surrounding
attractions of this island. HOLSTEINHOLSTEIN OldenburgOldenburg Baltic Sea.
(See pp458–69)(See pp458–69) GreifswaldGreifswald
NeumünsterNeumünster RostockRostock
ItzehoeItzehoe WismarWismar MECKLENBURG-MECKLENBURG-
CuxhavenCuxhaven LübeckLübeck LOWER POMERANIALOWER POMERANIA
(See pp470–85)(See pp470–85)
ElmshornElmshorn
SchwerinSchwerin NeubrandenburgNeubrandenburg
WilhelmshavenWilhelmshaven BremerhavenBremerhaven HamburgHamburg
EmdenEmden
LudwigslustLudwigslust NeustrelitzNeustrelitz
LeerLeer
LüneburgLüneburg
OldenburgOldenburg
BremenBremen 0 kilometres 50
SoltauSoltau UelzenUelzen 0 miles 50
LOWER SAXONY,LOWER SAXONY,
CloppenburgCloppenburg HAMBURG AND HAMBURG AND
BREMENBREMEN Lübeck suffered massive
damage in World War II,
MeppenMeppen (See pp428–57)(See pp428–57) but its Gothic town hall
NienburgNienburg CelleCelle survived the attacks and
LingenLingen the city’s beautiful old
WolfsburgWolfsburg town has been rebuilt.
BramscheBramsche
HanoverHanover
OsnabrückOsnabrück
BrunswickBrunswick
HildesheimHildesheim
GoslarGoslar


Hamburg has many fine
Oldenburg, symbolized by its buildings, including the
heraldic shield, is famous for its large magnificent Rathaus
collection of paintings and interiors (City Hall), built in the
in its Kunstmuseum (art museum). late 19th century.
Fronted by the expanse
Bremen, a historic harbour town, of the market square, it
draws visitors with its many historic presents an imposing
buildings and monuments, including picture from across the
a Renaissance-Gothic town hall. Kleine Alster.
Handsome period buildings in Neuer Markt, Rostock



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INTRODUCING NOR THERN GERM AN Y  423
















Niebüll Fehmarn, one of the largest of the German islands, is
Flensburg linked with the German mainland by a railway bridge
constructed in 1963. Rügen enchants visitors
with its chalky white
Schleswig cliffs, which contrast
starkly with the deep
blues and greens of
SCHLESWIG- Kiel Oldenburg Stralsund the surrounding
HOLSTEIN Baltic Sea.
(See pp458–69) Greifswald
Neumünster Rostock
Itzehoe Wismar MECKLENBURG-
Cuxhaven Lübeck LOWER POMERANIA
(See pp470–85)
Elmshorn
Schwerin Neubrandenburg
Wilhelmshaven Bremerhaven Hamburg
Emden
Ludwigslust Neustrelitz
Leer
Lüneburg
Oldenburg
Bremen 0 kilometres 50
Soltau Uelzen 0 miles 50
LOWER SAXONY,
Cloppenburg HAMBURG AND
BREMEN Lübeck suffered massive
damage in World War II,
Meppen (See pp428–57) but its Gothic town hall
Nienburg Celle survived the attacks and
Lingen the city’s beautiful old
Wolfsburg town has been rebuilt.
Bramsche
Hanover
Osnabrück
Brunswick
Hildesheim
Goslar


Hamburg has many fine
buildings, including the
magnificent Rathaus
(City Hall), built in the
late 19th century.
Fronted by the expanse
of the market square, it
presents an imposing
picture from across the
Kleine Alster.




422-423_EW_Germany.indd 423 09/10/17 12:50 pm

424  NOR THERN GERM AN Y INTRODUCING NOR THERN GERM AN Y  425


Gothic Brick Architecture

Brick was used as a building material in many parts of The storeys are
divided by friezes.
medieval Europe, but in Northern Germany it gave rise
to the distinctive style of Backsteingotik (brick Gothic).
Brick technology was introduced in the mid-12th century
by Norbertine monks arriving from Lombardy. The style Terracotta tiles with raised decorative
is characterized by a rich variety of vaults, the use of motifs were used in brick architecture
in place of stone bas-reliefs.
buttresses instead of supporting arches, and colourful Turret for
designs achieved by using glazed bricks. Through smallest
trade and the activities of religious orders these church bell The arcades between the
naves are tall and narrow,
forms spread throughout the Baltic region. culminating in acutely
pointed arches.
The eastern façade of
many churches, such
as the Marienkirche in
Prenzlau (above) was often
crowned by an elaborate, Complex star vaulting with intricate
ornamental gable. ribbing replaced the earlier cross-
ribbed vaulting.
Marienkirche
in Lübeck Flying buttresses
Considered are rare in brick-
built churches.
the crowning
achievement of
Backsteingotik, Stepped walls
this church, built were used to dress
from around the façades of the
1260, became the church. They were an
important element
model for countless in the construction.
others, including
the cathedral in
Schwerin. It is a
triple-naved basilica,
with a twin-towered Beam openings
façade, braced indicate that a
with buttresses. robust type of
scaffolding was
used in the course of
construction. The ends
A pointed of the beams are
arched portal, incorporated in the walls.
decorated with
ceramic borders,
was a typical
feature of many Secular Brick
village churches. Architecture
Backsteingotik was not confined
to churches – this style was
Main portal
used in magnificent town halls,
weigh-houses, gateways and
houses, mostly on narrow
plots, with elaborate gables
decorated with glazed bricks
Gables with tiled The vast twin- and white plasterwork.
decorations and intricate towered façade
openwork, such as this symbolizes the
gable of the south chapel of power of its Friezes on the arcades, such as this
the Nikolai kirche in Wismar, founders – wealthy interlaced motif made from brick, Gothic house on the market
Lübeck patricians.
are a feature of many Lower are frequently used as a decorative square in Greifswald
Pomeranian churches. element, even in village churches.


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Eyewitness Travel LAYERS PRINTED:
Feature template “UK” LAYER
(SourceReport v1.3)
Date 18th October 2012
Size 125mm x 217mm

INTRODUCING NOR THERN GERM AN Y  425










Terracotta tiles with raised decorative
motifs were used in brick architecture
in place of stone bas-reliefs.
Turret for
smallest
church bell The arcades between the
naves are tall and narrow,
culminating in acutely
pointed arches.



Complex star vaulting with intricate
ribbing replaced the earlier cross-
ribbed vaulting.

Flying buttresses
are rare in brick-
built churches.

Stepped walls
were used to dress
the façades of the
church. They were an
important element
in the construction.


Beam openings
indicate that a
robust type of
scaffolding was
used in the course of
construction. The ends
of the beams are
incorporated in the walls.

Secular Brick
Architecture
Backsteingotik was not confined
to churches – this style was
used in magnificent town halls,
weigh-houses, gateways and
houses, mostly on narrow
plots, with elaborate gables
decorated with glazed bricks
and white plasterwork.

Friezes on the arcades, such as this
interlaced motif made from brick, Gothic house on the market
are frequently used as a decorative square in Greifswald
element, even in village churches.





424-425_EW_Germany.indd 425 09/10/17 2:33 pm

426  NOR THERN GERM AN Y INTRODUCING NOR THERN GERM AN Y  427


The German Coastline Stralsund, a Hanseatic harbour
town with a medieval layout, has
The waters of two seas – the North Sea and the Baltic a large number of well-preserved
Sea – lap on northern Germany’s shores, linked by the historic monuments.
Kiel Canal, which cuts across the base of the Jutland
peninsula. The cool climate on the coast makes for On the small, flat island of
short summers yet, on a sunny day, the beaches are Hiddensee all car traffic is
packed with holidaymakers, and a holiday here can The sand dunes back a wide beach on banned. The island was much
loved by the writer Gerhart
have alot to offer. Heiligendamm was the first seaside the North Frisian island of Amrum, off Hauptmann, who lies buried here
resort to be established in Germany, in 1783 by a duke Schleswig-Holstein’s North Sea coast. in the local cemetery.
of Mecklenburg. By the end of the 19th century, spas The Coastline
with elegant villas, promenades and piers were
springing up everywhere. A popular attraction are The hinterland of the Baltic region is
generally flat and sandy, but in some
the Strandkörbe – huge wickerwork beach chairs. areas it is steep and rocky. For visitors
N N N 11 the greatest draw are the islands:
N
11
L L O 41
41
E E 4242 Rügen, with its steep chalky cliffs;
O
S S R Usedom, with its wide, sandy beaches;
R
N N SyltSylt D FlensburgFlensburg
D
I I F R and Hiddensee. Off the lowlands and
199
199 the marshy coastal region in the
F R I I
E E The beach at Ahlbeck and
199
199
E
E
201
H H 201 hinterland of the North Sea coast the pier with its restaurant
C C 5 extends the chain of Frisian islands.
5
S S S L A N D are the greatest attractions
201201
O S T S E E ( B A L T I C S E A
I I SchleswigSchleswig on the island of Usedom, at
S L A N D
S S 207 207 BergenBergen the mouth of the Oder river.
N O R D F R I E N O R D F R I E RendsburgRendsburg 76 KielKiel 202 O S T S E E ( B A L T I C S E A ) ) R ÜGE NR ÜGE N
76
202
The Cliffs of Helgoland have 203203 StralsundStralsund ODERBUCH TODERBUCH T
a characteristic reddish hue 76 Ribnitz-Ribnitz- 96
96
76
- Damgarten- Damgarten
105
indicating the red sandstone HelgolandHelgoland 205 LÜBECKERLÜBECKER 105 RostockRostock GreifswaldGreifswald
from which they are composed. 77 BUCH TBUCH T
NeumünsterNeumünster 103 E251/96 E251/96 109
205 77
23
23
N O R D S E E ( N O R T H S E A ) ) 73 55 ElmshornElmshorn 206206 21 LübeckLübeck WismarWismar 20 20 GüstrowGüstrow AnklamAnklam
N O R D S E E ( N O R T H S E A
103
109
ItzehoeItzehoe
21
73
E22/1
104
E45/7
E45/7
O STFRIESLANDO STFRIESLAND E234/27 E234/27 PinnebergPinneberg E22/1 SchwerinSchwerin 104 UeckermündeUeckermünde
72 495 495 7373
72
WilhelmshavenWilhelmshaven BremerhavenBremerhaven HamburgHamburg Rügen,
famous for its
210 210 72 436436 437 437 7171 ReinbekReinbek unusual chalky cliff
72
71
EmdenEmden 31 71 E22/1 formations, was immortalized 0 km 60
E22/1
31
74 74 by Caspar David Friedrich and
E22/28E22/28 29 0 miles 60
29
E22/A7E22/A7 continues to inspire artists.
70 70 OldenburgOldenburg Cross-Section Winkles and Starfish Lugworm and Sand gaper
72
72 of Watt (North Sea) other small snails sand cast (mussel)
The Kiel Canal, live in the coastal
known in Germany The Watt is a flat, boggy zone by the sea.
as the Nord- stretch of coastline, up to
Ostsee-Kanal, was several kilometres wide, that
constructed in is covered by the sea as the
1887–95. Around tide comes in, and laid bare
40,000 vessels pass as it goes out again. The Watt
through the canal landscape is fairly monotonous,
every year. but it is fascinating to observe
the rich flora and fauna,
which has adapted to cope
Borkum, one of the East Frisian Bremerhaven is a vast port at the with life both underwater
islands, was once inhabited by whalers. mouth of the Weser river. It was and exposed to the air.
Garden fences were often constructed constructed from 1827 to support
from whale bones, and some have the port of Bremen, which is located
survived to the present day. further inland, away from the sea.
426-427_EW_Germany.indd 426 09/10/17 12:50 pm 426-427_EW_Germany.indd 427 09/10/17 12:50 pm

INTRODUCING NOR THERN GERM AN Y  427



Stralsund, a Hanseatic harbour
town with a medieval layout, has
a large number of well-preserved
historic monuments.

On the small, flat island of
Hiddensee all car traffic is
banned. The island was much
loved by the writer Gerhart
Hauptmann, who lies buried here
in the local cemetery.
The Coastline
The hinterland of the Baltic region is
generally flat and sandy, but in some
areas it is steep and rocky. For visitors
N N 11 the greatest draw are the islands:
L O 41
E 42 Rügen, with its steep chalky cliffs;
S R Usedom, with its wide, sandy beaches;
N Sylt D Flensburg
I and Hiddensee. Off the lowlands and
F R I 199 the marshy coastal region in the
E The beach at Ahlbeck and
199
E
H 201 hinterland of the North Sea coast the pier with its restaurant
C 5 extends the chain of Frisian islands.
S S L A N D are the greatest attractions
201
I Schleswig on the island of Usedom, at
S 207 Bergen the mouth of the Oder river.
N O R D F R I E 203 76 Kiel 202 O S T S E E ( B A L T I C S E A ) Stralsund R ÜGE N
Rendsburg
ODERBUCH T
76 Ribnitz- 96
- Damgarten
Helgoland 205 LÜBECKER 105 Rostock Greifswald
Neumünster BUCH T 103 E251/96 109
77
23
N O R D S E E ( N O R T H S E A ) 73 5 Elmshorn 206 21 Lübeck Wismar 20 Güstrow Anklam
Itzehoe
E45/7
O STFRIESLAND E234/27 Pinneberg E22/1 Schwerin 104 Ueckermünde
72 495 73
Wilhelmshaven Bremerhaven Hamburg Rügen,
famous for its
210 72 436 437 71 Reinbek unusual chalky cliff
Emden 31 71 E22/1 formations, was immortalized 0 km 60
74 by Caspar David Friedrich and
E22/28 29 0 miles 60
E22/A7 continues to inspire artists.
70 Oldenburg Cross-Section Winkles and Starfish Lugworm and Sand gaper
of Watt (North Sea) (mussel)
72 other small snails sand cast
live in the coastal
The Watt is a flat, boggy zone by the sea.
stretch of coastline, up to
several kilometres wide, that
is covered by the sea as the
tide comes in, and laid bare
as it goes out again. The Watt
landscape is fairly monotonous,
but it is fascinating to observe
the rich flora and fauna,
which has adapted to cope
with life both underwater
and exposed to the air.

426-427_EW_Germany.indd 427 09/10/17 12:50 pm

NOR THERN GERM AN Y  429

LOWER SAXONY,

HAMBURG AND

BREMEN


Three federal states – Lower Saxony and the independent city
states of Hamburg and Bremen – cover an enormous terrain,
embracing the whole of northwestern Germany. For the visitor they provide a
series of memorable snapshots: the mighty cosmopolitan port of Hamburg,
enchanting towns and villages with half-timbered houses and the blooming
heather of the Lüneburger Heide.
Lower Saxony was formed in the 19th Romanesque splendour of Hildesheim is a
century through the merging of the magnet for visitors, as are the Renaissance
kingdom of Hanover with the duchy of centres along the Weser River including
Brunswick, Oldenburg and Schaumburg- Ha meln, the charming towns of Celle,
Lippe and other parts of northern Lüneburg and Ein beck, and Wolfenbüttel,
Germany. The second-largest German state Stadt hagen and Bückeburg which contain
after Bavaria, it only ranks fourth in terms some remarkable Mannerist works of art.
of the number of its inhabitants, being Nature lovers will enjoy excursions to
less densely populated than other states. the Lüneburger Heide or paddling in the
Lower Saxony is characterized by endless expanses of mud-flats in the North
lowlands that become hillier in the south, Sea. Tourists are also attracted by the sandy
culminating in the Harz Mountains. The beaches of the East Frisian islands, as well as
only large cities are Hanover, a modern the solitary rock of the island of Helgoland.
centre renowned for its trade fairs and for The “free and Hanseatic” towns of
hosting Expo 2000, and Brunswick (Braun- Hamburg and Bremen rejoice in a different
schweig), a venerable town that cherishes atmosphere, urban and urbane, tolerant
its link with the Saxon king Heinrich der and multicultural, based on centuries of
Löwe, its first important ruler. The trade with the world.























The glorious moorlands of the Lüneburger Heide, with tall juniper bushes and flowering heathers
Statue of Roland in front of the town hall in Bremen



428-429_EW_Germany.indd 428 09/10/17 2:33 pm 428-429_EW_Germany.indd 429 09/10/17 2:33 pm
Eyewitness Travel LAYERS PRINTED:
Regional intro template V2 “UK” LAYER
(OpenType)
Date 10th November 2006
Size 125mm x 217mm

NOR THERN GERM AN Y  429

LOWER SAXONY,

HAMBURG AND

BREMEN


Three federal states – Lower Saxony and the independent city
states of Hamburg and Bremen – cover an enormous terrain,
embracing the whole of northwestern Germany. For the visitor they provide a
series of memorable snapshots: the mighty cosmopolitan port of Hamburg,
enchanting towns and villages with half-timbered houses and the blooming
heather of the Lüneburger Heide.
Lower Saxony was formed in the 19th Romanesque splendour of Hildesheim is a
century through the merging of the magnet for visitors, as are the Renaissance
kingdom of Hanover with the duchy of centres along the Weser River including
Brunswick, Oldenburg and Schaumburg- Ha meln, the charming towns of Celle,
Lippe and other parts of northern Lüneburg and Ein beck, and Wolfenbüttel,
Germany. The second-largest German state Stadt hagen and Bückeburg which contain
after Bavaria, it only ranks fourth in terms some remarkable Mannerist works of art.
of the number of its inhabitants, being Nature lovers will enjoy excursions to
less densely populated than other states. the Lüneburger Heide or paddling in the
Lower Saxony is characterized by endless expanses of mud-flats in the North
lowlands that become hillier in the south, Sea. Tourists are also attracted by the sandy
culminating in the Harz Mountains. The beaches of the East Frisian islands, as well as
only large cities are Hanover, a modern the solitary rock of the island of Helgoland.
centre renowned for its trade fairs and for The “free and Hanseatic” towns of
hosting Expo 2000, and Brunswick (Braun- Hamburg and Bremen rejoice in a different
schweig), a venerable town that cherishes atmosphere, urban and urbane, tolerant
its link with the Saxon king Heinrich der and multicultural, based on centuries of
Löwe, its first important ruler. The trade with the world.























The glorious moorlands of the Lüneburger Heide, with tall juniper bushes and flowering heathers
Statue of Roland in front of the town hall in Bremen



428-429_EW_Germany.indd 429 09/10/17 2:33 pm

430  NOR THERN GERM AN Y L OWER SA X ON Y , HA MBURG AND BREMEN  431

Exploring Lower Saxony, Hamburg Getting Around
and Bremen There are international airports in Hamburg,
Bremen and Hanover. A network of motor­
ways links Lower Saxony with Scandinavia
Hamburg and Bremen, the region’s largest cities, are also the most convenient (via Schleswig­Holstein), and with the rest
bases for tourists, offering accommodation in every price category. The most of western Europe (via the Netherlands or
attractive area in this region is the southeastern section, extending to the southern Germany). An extensive rail
foothills of the Harz Mountains with picturesque towns, such as the university network makes the entire state accessible,
town of Göttingen, Romanesque Hildesheim or the stunningly beautiful although bus connections are limited.
merchant town of Goslar. A visit to the
seaside and an excursion to the
Elbe
islands are also enjoyable. CuxhavenCuxhaven Elbe
OSTFRIESISCHE INSELN
OSTFRIESISCHE INSELN Wangerooge The Große Wallanlagen Park in Hamburg, laid out along
Wangerooge
BaltrumBaltrum
Mellum
JuistJuist NorderneyNorderney LangeoogLangeoog SpiekeroogSpiekeroog Mellum KielKiel LübeckLübeck the city’s former fortifications
O S T F R I E S L A N D
NordenNorden AhrensburgAhrensburg
STADESTADE
WittmundWittmund
BorkumBorkum O S T F R I E S L A N D WilhelmshavenWilhelmshaven BremerhavenBremerhaven ALTESALTES HAMBURGHAMBURG
Ems-Jade-Kanal
AurichAurich Ems-Jade-Kanal Nordenham BremervördeBremervörde LANDLAND
RosengartenRosengarten
Hamme
Hamme
EmdenEmden Nordenham Weser WinsenWinsen
VarelVarel
Weser
Ems
Ems
Elbe
LeerLeer BadBad WorpswedeWorpswede UndelohUndeloh LÜNEBURGLÜNEBURG Elbe
ZwischenahnZwischenahn ScheesselScheessel
BREMEN
GroningenGroningen BREMEN RotenburgRotenburg
OLDENBURG
OLDENBURG
DannenbergDannenberg
LÜNEBURGE
LÜNEBURGER R
PapenburgPapenburg HEIDE
HEIDE
SOLTAUSOLTAU LüchowLüchow
UelzenUelzen
CLEMENSWERTHCLEMENSWERTH WildeshausenWildeshausen VerdenVerden
BassumBassum WalsrodeWalsrode
CLOPPENBURGCLOPPENBURG VisbekVisbek Aller
HarenHaren Bergen-Belsen Sights at a Glance
Bergen-Belsen
Aller
MeppenMeppen NIEDER SACHSENNIEDER SACHSEN Elbe-Seiten-Kanal 1 Ostfriesische Inseln
QuakenbrückQuakenbrück SulingenSulingen Leine Leine (East Frisian Islands)
Ems Ems DiepholzDiepholz NienburgNienburg Wietze CELLECELLE 2 Ostfriesland (Eastern Frisia)
Wietze
Elbe-Seiten-Kanal
LingenLingen Weser Weser WienhausenWienhausen Alle r r 3 Clemenswerth
Alle
Vechte
Vechte
DümmerseeDümmersee GifhornGifhorn 4 Oldenburg
FürstenauFürstenau
WunsdorfWunsdorf WOLFSBURGWOLFSBURG 5 Cloppenburg
NordhornNordhorn BramscheBramsche 6 Osnabrück
HANOVERHANOVER Oker
STADTHAGENSTADTHAGEN BrunswickBrunswick 7 Bremen pp434–7
Oker
The crowning feature of the bay EnschedeEnschede OSNABRÜCKOSNABRÜCK LaatzenLaatzen PeinePeine Helmstedt 8 Hamburg pp438–43
Helmstedt
window of the Dempter haus in Hameln BÜCKEBURGBÜCKEBURG SpringeSpringe Königslutter 9 Altes Land
Königslutter
Teutoburger
Teutoburger HamelnHameln HILDESHEIMHILDESHEIM WOLFENBÜTTELWOLFENBÜTTEL q Lüneburg
Bad IburgBad Iburg MagdeburgMagdeburg 0 Stade
Wald
Wald
e Soltau
BielefeldBielefeld HämelschenburgHämelschenburg w Lüneburger Heide
r Celle
BadBad GOSLARGOSLAR t Wolfsburg
GandersheimGandersheim
y Stadthagen
BevernBevern EINBECKEINBECK H a r z u Bückeburg
H a r z
OsterodeOsterode i Brunswick (Braunschweig)
am Harzam Harz
NortheimNortheim o Wolfenbüttel
WESER
WESER
Key p Hannover (Hanover) pp448–9
Motorway a Hildesheim pp452–3
DUDERSTADTDUDERSTADT
RENAISSANCE TRAIL
RENAISSANCE TRAIL
Main road s Goslar pp454–5
Weser
Weser
GÖTTINGENGÖTTINGEN d Einbeck
Minor road MündenMünden
f Göttingen
Main railway
g Duderstadt
Minor railway
KasselKassel 0 kilometres 40
National border Tours
The massive edifice of the Neues Rathaus in Hanover Regional border 0 miles 40 h The Weser Renaissance Trail
For additional map symbols see back flap
430-431_EW_Germany.indd 430 09/10/17 2:33 pm 430-431_EW_Germany.indd 431 09/10/17 2:33 pm
Eyewitness Travel LAYERS PRINTED:
Explorer template “UK” LAYER
(Source v1.4)
Date 5th December 2012
Size 125mm x 217mm

L OWER SA X ON Y , HA MBURG AND BREMEN  431

Getting Around
There are international airports in Hamburg,
Bremen and Hanover. A network of motor­
ways links Lower Saxony with Scandinavia
(via Schleswig­Holstein), and with the rest
of western Europe (via the Netherlands or
southern Germany). An extensive rail
network makes the entire state accessible,
although bus connections are limited.


Cuxhaven Elbe
OSTFRIESISCHE INSELN Wangerooge The Große Wallanlagen Park in Hamburg, laid out along
Baltrum
Juist Norderney Langeoog Spiekeroog Mellum Kiel Lübeck the city’s former fortifications
Norden Ahrensburg
STADE
Wittmund
Borkum O S T F R I E S L A N D Wilhelmshaven Bremerhaven ALTES HAMBURG
Aurich Ems-Jade-Kanal Nordenham Bremervörde LAND
Rosengarten
Hamme
Emden Weser Winsen
Varel
Ems
Leer Bad Worpswede Undeloh LÜNEBURG Elbe
Zwischenahn Scheessel
Groningen BREMEN Rotenburg
OLDENBURG
Dannenberg
Papenburg HEIDE
LÜNEBURGER
SOLTAU Lüchow
Uelzen
CLEMENSWERTH Wildeshausen Verden
Bassum Walsrode
CLOPPENBURG Visbek Aller
Haren Bergen-Belsen Sights at a Glance
Meppen NIEDER SACHSEN Elbe-Seiten-Kanal 1 Ostfriesische Inseln
Quakenbrück Sulingen Leine (East Frisian Islands)
Ems Diepholz Nienburg Wietze CELLE 2 Ostfriesland (Eastern Frisia)
Lingen Weser Wienhausen Alle r 3 Clemenswerth
Dümmersee Gifhorn 4 Oldenburg
Vechte
Fürstenau
Wunsdorf WOLFSBURG 5 Cloppenburg
Nordhorn Bramsche 6 Osnabrück
HANOVER Oker
STADTHAGEN Brunswick 7 Bremen pp434–7
Enschede OSNABRÜCK Laatzen Peine 8 Hamburg pp438–43
Helmstedt 9 Altes Land
BÜCKEBURG Springe Königslutter
Teutoburger Hameln HILDESHEIM WOLFENBÜTTEL q Lüneburg
Bad Iburg Magdeburg 0 Stade
Wald
e Soltau
Bielefeld Hämelschenburg w Lüneburger Heide
r Celle
Bad GOSLAR t Wolfsburg
Gandersheim
y Stadthagen
Bevern EINBECK H a r z u Bückeburg
Osterode i Brunswick (Braunschweig)
am Harz
Northeim o Wolfenbüttel
WESER
p Hannover (Hanover) pp448–9
a Hildesheim pp452–3
DUDERSTADT
s Goslar pp454–5
RENAISSANCE TRAIL
Weser
GÖTTINGEN d Einbeck
Münden
f Göttingen
g Duderstadt
Kassel 0 kilometres 40 Tours
0 miles 40 h The Weser Renaissance Trail
430-431_EW_Germany.indd 431 09/10/17 2:33 pm

432  NOR THERN GERM AN Y L OWER SA X ON Y , HA MBURG AND BREMEN  433

1 Ostfriesische 4 Oldenburg Stone Age, with megalithic
Inseln (East Road map B2. * 160,000. £ graves from 3,500 to 1,800 BC,
Frisian Islands) n Schloßplatz (0441 36 16 13 66). _ including the 80-m (262-ft) long
Hafenfest (7 days after Whitsun); grave known as “Visbeker
Road map B2. g Emden-Borkum, Altstadtfest (end Aug); Kramermarkt Bräutigam” (bridegroom) and
Norden-Norddeich to Juist and (Sep/Oct). ∑ oldenburg.de the even larger, 100-m (321-ft)
Norderney, Nessmersiel-Baltrum, long “Visbeker Braut” (bride).
Bensersiel-Langeoog, A thousand years old, and once
Neuharlingersiel-Spiekeroog, part of Denmark, this town E Museumsdorf Cloppenburg
Harlesiel-Wangerooge. n Leer, remained the seat of a duchy Bether Straße 6. Tel (04471) 948 40.
Ledastraße 10. (0491) 91 96 96 60. Moormuseum in Elisabethfehn, Ostfriesland until 1918. Open Mar–Oct: 9am–6pm daily,
∑ ostfriesland.de
The Lambertikirche, in the Nov–Feb: 9am–4:30pm daily. &
Along the North Sea Coast visiting Wangerooge, another has a ceiling with sun ken central market square, is a
extends the belt of East Frisian island where cars are banned. panels, and next to the parish late-Gothic hall-church with a
Islands consisting of, from Three lighthouses – Westturm, church the wood and stone Neo-Classical rotunda added in A windmill in the open-air museum 6 Osnabrück
west to east: Borkum, Juist, Alter Leuchtturm and Neuer tomb of the Frisian leader Edo 1797. The Schloß, the ducal in Cloppenburg Road map B3. * 157,000. £
Norderney, Baltrum, Langeoog, Leuchtturm – indicate the Wiemken, made in 1561–4 by residence, displays a similar n Bierstraße. 22–23 (0541-32 32
Spiekeroog and Wangerooge. island’s role in the navigation master craftsmen from Antwerp. marriage of styles, particularly 5 Cloppenburg 202). _ Herbstjahrmarkt (early Nov).
All around them is the National­ of the Weser River estuary. Baroque and Neo-Classical. Road map B3. * 29,000. n Esch- ∑ osnabrueck.de
park Niedersächsisches E Kunsthalle Emden The Landesmuseum für Kunst straße 29 (04471-152 56). _ Mariä
Wattenmeer, a large national 2 Ostfriesland Hinter dem Rahmen 13. Tel (04921) und Kulturge schichte (state Geburtsmarkt (Sep). This Westphalian town has been
park established to protect 975 00. Open 10am–5pm Tue–Fri, museum of art and culture), a bishop’s see since the time of
the unique ecosystem of the (East Frisia) 11am–5pm Sat & Sun; 10am–9pm first based in the castle, is known The small market town of Charlemagne. In 1648, nego-
shallow seas. At low tide it turns Road map B2. £ Emden, Leer, Tue of month. & mainly for its collection of Cloppenburg boasts the tiations took place here between
into vast mud-flats, extending Norden. n (0491) 91 96 96 60. E Moor­ und Fehnmuseum paintings assem bled by Wilhelm Museumsdorf, the oldest open- representatives of Sweden and
to the horizon. This is the time _ Kiewittmarkt (Jever, end Mar); Oldenburger-Straße 1. Tel (04499) Tischbein, who lived here air museum in the Protestant duchies
to tour the Watt, as it is known Altstadtfest (Jever, Aug). 22 22. Open Apr–Oct: 10am–5pm for 25 years. The affiliated Germany, established of the Reich. The
locally, either by horse-drawn ∑ ostfriesland.de Tue–Sun. Augusteum, a Neo-Renaissance in 1934. On a vast site, signing of the Peace of
carriage or barefoot – always building in a picturesque spot, 50 architectural Westphalia in 1648,
making sure to return before East Frisia is a peninsula near holds the museum’s modern monuments from all which ended the Thirty
the tide comes in! the border with the Netherlands 3 Clemenswerth collection. over Lower Saxony Years’ War, was announ-
The islands themselves, with and the Jadebusen bay, at Road map B2. £ Sögel or Lathen. have been assembled. ced from the town hall
their beautiful sandy beaches, Wilhelmshaven. This is a land n Ölmühlenweg 21, Rathausstraße 2 E Landesmuseum für Kunst There are houses, steps. It was also the
sand dunes and healthy of flat meadows, grazing cows (04961-839 60). Schloß: Tel 05952-93 und Kulturgeschichte including charming birthplace of the writer
climate, are among the most and windmills. 23 25. Open Apr–Oct: 10am–6pm Damm 1. Tel (0441) 220 73 00. examples of the half- Erich Maria Remarque
popular holiday destinations Emden, the region’s capital, Tue–Sun. Closed winter. Open 10am–6pm Tue–Sun. timbered style of in 1899.
in Germany. has an attractive town hall Closed 1 Jan, Good Friday, Easter, Wehlburg, windmills Despite damage in
The car-free island Juist, a resembling that in Antwerp, Emsland, to the south of East 1 May, 24, 25 & 31 Dec. & and a small World War II, Dom St
17-km (11-mile) strip of land less and a town centre crossed by Frisia, extends along the Dutch 17th-century church Epitaph for Albert von Peter, Osnabrück’s
than 500 m (1,640 ft) wide, and many canals. The Kunst halle border, a poor area since time Environs from Klein-Escherde Bevessen in the Dom 13th-century cathedral,
Norderney, with its main town Emden, founded in the early immemorial, with moors and The town of Bad Zwischenahn near Hildesheim. in Osnabrück is worth visiting. It has
of the same name, are the most 1990s by Henri Nannen, boglands. Only the discovery is worth a visit. Its star attraction To the east of a bronze baptismal
interesting islands. Neo-Classical publisher of the magazine of oil in the 20th century is the Gothic St Johannis kirche Cloppenburg lies Visbek. Here font and enormous triumphal
villas recall the days when such Stern, holds a remarkable engineered its progress. Sögel, with frescoes from 1512. the visitor is taken back to the cross, and the late-Gothic
figures as Heinrich Heine and collection of 19th-century 33 km (21 miles) south of Snetlage-Altar of the Crucifixion.
Otto von Bismarck spent their paintings, including the works Greater Papenburg, has the From here a short walk takes
holidays here. It is also worth of many German Expressionists region’s greatest attraction, the visitor to the market square,
such as Emil Nolde, the palatial hunting lodge or Marienkirche and the Gothic
Max Beckmann and Schloß Clemenswerth, built Rathaus (town hall), with a
Oskar Kokoschka. from 1737–49. In search of sculpture of Charlemagne.
Another attraction is solitude, the elector and
the Moor­ und archbishop of Cologne Clemens Environs
Fehnmuseum (moor August commissioned the South of Osnabrück is the
and fen museum) in lodge from Johan Conrad western part of the Teutoburger
Elisabethfehn, which is Schlaun. The design was Wald (Teutoburg Forest). The
dedicated to the extrac- modelled on the pavilion- spa town of Bad Iburg, 12 km
tion of peat. Its exhibits pagoda of Nymphenburg in (8 miles) to the south of
include the world’s Munich. Altogether it comprises Osnabrück, has a monumental
largest plough, as well seven pavilions with mansard Benedictine monastery and
as the story of Jever, the roofs and a chapel. All the brick bishop’s palace. The Rittersaal
local beer. Also worth buildings were laid out on a (knights’ hall) has a giant
visiting are the green lawn, creating a star ceiling fresco depict ing an
Nationalpark Niedersächsisches Wattenmeer in the Renaissance palace shape around the palace. Inside architectural fantasy of fore-
Greefsiel area whose reception hall there is a museum of the region. The Schloß in Oldenburg, featuring Baroque and Neo-Classical styles shortened perspectives.
For hotels and restaurants in this area see pp501–502 and pp529–31


432-433_EW_Germany.indd 432 09/10/17 2:33 pm 432-433_EW_Germany.indd 433 09/10/17 2:33 pm
Eyewitness Travel LAYERS PRINTED:
Catalogue template “UK” LAYER
(Source v2.2)
Date 15th January 2013
Size 125mm x 217mm

L OWER SA X ON Y , HA MBURG AND BREMEN  433


4 Oldenburg Stone Age, with megalithic
graves from 3,500 to 1,800 BC,
Road map B2. * 160,000. £
n Schloßplatz (0441 36 16 13 66). _ including the 80-m (262-ft) long
Hafenfest (7 days after Whitsun); grave known as “Visbeker
Altstadtfest (end Aug); Kramermarkt Bräutigam” (bridegroom) and
(Sep/Oct). ∑ oldenburg.de the even larger, 100-m (321-ft)
long “Visbeker Braut” (bride).
A thousand years old, and once
part of Denmark, this town E Museumsdorf Cloppenburg
remained the seat of a duchy Bether Straße 6. Tel (04471) 948 40.
until 1918. Open Mar–Oct: 9am–6pm daily,
The Lambertikirche, in the Nov–Feb: 9am–4:30pm daily. &
central market square, is a
late-Gothic hall-church with a
Neo-Classical rotunda added in A windmill in the open-air museum 6 Osnabrück
1797. The Schloß, the ducal in Cloppenburg Road map B3. * 157,000. £
residence, displays a similar n Bierstraße. 22–23 (0541-32 32
marriage of styles, particularly 5 Cloppenburg 202). _ Herbstjahrmarkt (early Nov).
Baroque and Neo-Classical. Road map B3. * 29,000. n Esch- ∑ osnabrueck.de
The Landesmuseum für Kunst straße 29 (04471-152 56). _ Mariä
und Kulturge schichte (state Geburtsmarkt (Sep). This Westphalian town has been
museum of art and culture), a bishop’s see since the time of
based in the castle, is known The small market town of Charlemagne. In 1648, nego-
mainly for its collection of Cloppenburg boasts the tiations took place here between
paintings assem bled by Wilhelm Museumsdorf, the oldest open- representatives of Sweden and
Tischbein, who lived here air museum in the Protestant duchies
for 25 years. The affiliated Germany, established of the Reich. The
Augusteum, a Neo-Renaissance in 1934. On a vast site, signing of the Peace of
building in a picturesque spot, 50 architectural Westphalia in 1648,
holds the museum’s modern monuments from all which ended the Thirty
collection. over Lower Saxony Years’ War, was announ-
have been assembled. ced from the town hall
E Landesmuseum für Kunst There are houses, steps. It was also the
und Kulturgeschichte including charming birthplace of the writer
Damm 1. Tel (0441) 220 73 00. examples of the half- Erich Maria Remarque
Open 10am–6pm Tue–Sun. timbered style of in 1899.
Closed 1 Jan, Good Friday, Easter, Wehlburg, windmills Despite damage in
1 May, 24, 25 & 31 Dec. & and a small World War II, Dom St
17th-century church Epitaph for Albert von Peter, Osnabrück’s
Environs from Klein-Escherde Bevessen in the Dom 13th-century cathedral,
The town of Bad Zwischenahn near Hildesheim. in Osnabrück is worth visiting. It has
is worth a visit. Its star attraction To the east of a bronze baptismal
is the Gothic St Johannis kirche Cloppenburg lies Visbek. Here font and enormous triumphal
with frescoes from 1512. the visitor is taken back to the cross, and the late-Gothic
Snetlage-Altar of the Crucifixion.
From here a short walk takes
the visitor to the market square,
Marienkirche and the Gothic
Rathaus (town hall), with a
sculpture of Charlemagne.
Environs
South of Osnabrück is the
western part of the Teutoburger
Wald (Teutoburg Forest). The
spa town of Bad Iburg, 12 km
(8 miles) to the south of
Osnabrück, has a monumental
Benedictine monastery and
bishop’s palace. The Rittersaal
(knights’ hall) has a giant
ceiling fresco depict ing an
architectural fantasy of fore-
The Schloß in Oldenburg, featuring Baroque and Neo-Classical styles shortened perspectives.




432-433_EW_Germany.indd 433 09/10/17 2:33 pm

434  NOR THERN GERM AN Y BREMEN  435

7 Bremen for their conventions. It was VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
built in 1537–9 by the Antwerp
Bremen, together with its deep-water port Bremerhaven, architect Johann der Buschener Practical Information
constitutes a separate town state. Not so much a bustling in Dutch Mannerist style. The Road map: C2. * 556,000.
n Hauptbahnhof & Obernstraße
modern metropolis as a peaceful country town, it is conscious eastern gable, more classically (01805 10 10 30). g Port tours
of its historical origins dating back to Charlemagne. The Renaiss ance, is the work of the (0421-33 89 89). Cruises: May–
local builder Carsten Husmann.
townscape is not dominated by the port as in Hamburg, Sep: 10 & 11:30am, 1:30 & 3:15pm
daily. & ( Sat & Sun. _ 6 Tage
but by the old town with its magnificent cathedral and town R Dom The Mannerist Schütting, a meeting place Rennen (Jan); Osterwiese (Apr);
hall. Bremen enjoyed prosperity from 1358 when it joined Tower and “Bleikeller”: Tel (0421) 36 for merchants Vegesack Harbour Festival (Jun);
the Hanseatic League, its wealth based on the coffee and 50 40. Open Apr–Oct: 10am–5pm Bremer Freimarkt (late Oct/early
Nov); Christmas market (1–23
(tower ascent to 4:30pm) Mon–Fri,
wool trade. Today, Bremen still benefits from its port, which 10am–2pm (tower ascent to 1:30pm) was added. Inside, it is worth Dec). ∑ bremen-turismus.de
looking at the sandstone
ships around 700,000 cars a year. Sat, 2–5pm Sun.
Statue of the Bremen Town Musicians, bas-reliefs which divide the Transport
by Gerhard Marcks This magnificent Romanesque western choir stalls as well as £
cathedral, with its vast twin- fragments of Gothic stalls that
P Rathaus towered façade, dates from were destroyed in the 19th
Marktplatz. Tel (0421) 30 80 00. the 11th century and has century, with scenes of the multi-coloured memorials,
8 11am, noon, 3pm, 4pm Mon–Sat, been extensively refurbished. Passion and the battle of Judas including one to Segebad
11am–noon Sun. & At the end of the 19th century, Machabeus. There is also a Clüver by the entrance to the
The original Gothic building while the southern tower was Baroque pulpit paid for by north tower (1457). The larger
dati ng from 1405–10 was clad rebuilt, the façade was also Christina the Queen of Sweden eastern crypt has interesting
with a magnificent façade, one reconstructed and a tower in 1638, and numerous Romanesque cap itals, while
of the finest examples of Weser in the second eastern crypt
Renaissance architecture in visitors can admire the oldest
northern Germ any, designed by Bremen sculpture of Christ the
Lüder von Bentheim. He master­ Omnipotent (1050) as well as
fully incorporated the Gothic the baptismal font. The latter
figures of Charlemagne and has 38 bas-reliefs, and a bowl
seven Electors, as well as four supported by four lions with
Gabled houses and the statue of Roland in the Marktplatz prophets and four wise men. In riders. In the so-called “Bleikeller”
the 40­m (131­ft) Große Halle (lead cellar) underneath the
Exploring Bremen directed toward the cathedral, (great hall) new laws were former church cloisters, eight
Most of Bremen’s tourist the residence of the bishop, passed, as symbolized by the perfectly preserved mummies
attractions are in the old town, who frequently sought to fresco (1932) of Solomon’s court. Bas-reliefs on the western choir stalls in the Dom are on show.
on the east bank of the Weser restrict Bremen’s autonomy. Other Rathaus tre asures include
River. The area is easy to pick out Roland’s sword of justice the Renaissance spiral staircase.
on a map as it is surrounded by a symbolizes the judiciary’s On the western side of the town Bremen Town Centre
green belt, established when the independence, and the hall is the entrance to the BREMERHAVEN,BREMERHAVEN,
town’s fortifications were demo­ engraved motto confirms the “Ratskeller” where you can WORPSWEDEWORPSWEDE Übersee-Übersee- HauptbahnhofHauptbahnhof 1 Marktplatz
MuseumMuseum
BÜRGERMEISTER-SM IDT-STRASSE
lished. The Überseemuseum emperor’s edict, conferring sample 600 diffe rent wines, and HOCHSTR. Focke-Focke- 2 Rathaus
MuseumMuseum
HOCHSTR.
(ethnography museum) is close town rights onto Bremen. delight in the murals from 1927, BÜRGERMEISTER-SM IDT-STRASSE 3 Dom
BAH NHOFSTRASSE
to the old town, and trams run The second, more recent by the Impre ssionist Max Slevogt. BAH NHOFSTRASSE AN DER WEIDE 4 Schütting
AN DER WEIDE
to Schwachhausen, where the (1953) monument in the square BREITENWEG 5 Böttcherstraße
Focke­Museum is based. is dedicated to the Bremen P Schütting 6 Schnoorviertel
BREITENWEG
HERDENTOR
Town Musicians – a donkey, Marktplatz. AM WALL HERDENTOR REMBERTIRING 7 Kunsthalle
DOVENTORSTRASSE
AM WALL
P Marktplatz dog, cat and cockerel, who On the southwestern side of GRAFENSTRASSE SCHILLERSTR. 8 Überseemuseum
SCHILLERSTR.
REMBERTIRING
GRAFENSTRASSE
On the main square of medieval according to the Grimm fairy Marktplatz stands this mansion MALLET- DOVENTORSTRASSE ALTSTADTALTSTADT CON CON RICHTWEG
MALLET-
WEG
WEG
SÖGESTR.
Bremen stand the town hall and tale trekked to Bremen. used by the Merchants’ Guild SÖGESTR. TRESC ARPE Musical-Musical-
TheaterTheater
RICHTWEG
the cathedral, and, on the west Beck’sBeck’s BGM-Smidt-BGM-Smidt- GROSSENENSTR OBERNSTRASSE KOR KOR B B SCHÜS S E L S t adtgrabe 0 metres 500
TRESC ARPE
BrückeBrücke
GROSSENENSTR . .
S t adtgraben n
side, several gabled houses. This BreweryBrewery MARTINISTRASSE Liebfrauen-Liebfrauen-
SCHÜS S E L - -
OBERNSTRASSE
lovely view is slig htly marred Neues MuseumNeues Museum MARKT-MARKT- kirchekirche 0 yards 500
MARTINISTRASSE
by the unattractive 1960s WeserburgWeserburg PLATZPLATZ RathausRathaus VIOLENSTR. AM WALL
WASSERPROMENADE
WASSERPROMENADE
Haus der Bürgerschaft, the SchüttingSchütting AM DOM DomDom
AM WALL
VIOLENSTR.
Haus derHaus der
AM DOM
state parliament building. TEERHOF BürgerschaftBürgerschaft
BALGEBRÜCKSTR.
In front of the town hall Weser Roselius-Roselius- OSTERTORSTR. BUCHTSTR. CONTRESCARPE
TEERHOF
HausHaus
Weser
stands a 10­m (32­ft) statue Wilhelm-Wilhelm- BALGEBRÜCKSTR.
CONTRESCARPE
OSTERTORSTR.
BUCHTSTR.
of Roland, dating from 1404. Kaisen-Kaisen- Spielzeug- JohanniskircheJohanniskirche
MAR T ERBURG
BrückeBrücke
It is the largest of many similar HERRLICHKEIT Spielzeug- SCHNOOR MAR T ERBURG ALTENWALL AM WALL Gerhard-Gerhard-
ALTENWALL AM WALL
MuseumMuseum
Marcks-HausMarcks-Haus
SCHNOOR
OSTERTORSTEINWEG
OSTERTORSTEINWEG
statues in Ger man towns, and PackhausPackhaus KunsthalleKunsthalle Theater amTheater am
HERRLICHKEIT
the prototype for others. FlughafenFlughafen St JacobusSt Jacobus GoetheplatzGoetheplatz
A nephew of Charlemagne, 5 km (3 miles)5 km (3 miles) OSTERDEICH B LEICHE R S TRASS SchauspielhausSchauspielhaus
Roland symbolizes a town’s
B LEICHE R S TRASSE E
OSTERDEICH
independence. His gaze is The late-Renaissance façade of Bremen’s Rathaus VERDEN ANVERDEN AN
DER ALLERDER ALLER
For hotels and restaurants in this area see pp501–502 and pp529–31 For keys to symbols see back flap
434-435_EW_Germany.indd 434 09/10/17 2:33 pm 434-435_EW_Germany.indd 435 09/10/17 2:33 pm
Eyewitness Travel LAYERS PRINTED:
Catalogue template “UK” LAYER
(Source v2.2)
Date 15th January 2013
Size 125mm x 217mm

BREMEN  435


for their conventions. It was VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
built in 1537–9 by the Antwerp
architect Johann der Buschener Practical Information
in Dutch Mannerist style. The Road map: C2. * 556,000.
eastern gable, more classically n Hauptbahnhof & Obernstraße
Renaiss ance, is the work of the (01805 10 10 30). g Port tours
(0421-33 89 89). Cruises: May–
local builder Carsten Husmann. Sep: 10 & 11:30am, 1:30 & 3:15pm
daily. & ( Sat & Sun. _ 6 Tage
R Dom The Mannerist Schütting, a meeting place Rennen (Jan); Osterwiese (Apr);
Tower and “Bleikeller”: Tel (0421) 36 for merchants Vegesack Harbour Festival (Jun);
50 40. Open Apr–Oct: 10am–5pm Bremer Freimarkt (late Oct/early
(tower ascent to 4:30pm) Mon–Fri, was added. Inside, it is worth Nov); Christmas market (1–23
10am–2pm (tower ascent to 1:30pm) looking at the sandstone Dec). ∑ bremen-turismus.de
Sat, 2–5pm Sun. bas-reliefs which divide the Transport
This magnificent Romanesque western choir stalls as well as £
cathedral, with its vast twin- fragments of Gothic stalls that
towered façade, dates from were destroyed in the 19th
the 11th century and has century, with scenes of the multi-coloured memorials,
been extensively refurbished. Passion and the battle of Judas including one to Segebad
At the end of the 19th century, Machabeus. There is also a Clüver by the entrance to the
while the southern tower was Baroque pulpit paid for by north tower (1457). The larger
rebuilt, the façade was also Christina the Queen of Sweden eastern crypt has interesting
reconstructed and a tower in 1638, and numerous Romanesque cap itals, while
in the second eastern crypt
visitors can admire the oldest
Bremen sculpture of Christ the
Omnipotent (1050) as well as
the baptismal font. The latter
has 38 bas-reliefs, and a bowl
supported by four lions with
riders. In the so-called “Bleikeller”
(lead cellar) underneath the
former church cloisters, eight
perfectly preserved mummies
Bas-reliefs on the western choir stalls in the Dom are on show.

Bremen Town Centre
BREMERHAVEN,
WORPSWEDE HOCHSTR. Hauptbahnhof Focke- 1 Marktplatz
Übersee-
Museum
BÜRGERMEISTER-SM IDT-STRASSE BAH NHOFSTRASSE BREITENWEG Museum 3 Dom
2 Rathaus
4 Schütting
AN DER WEIDE
5 Böttcherstraße
6 Schnoorviertel
DOVENTORSTRASSE GRAFENSTRASSE HERDENTOR SCHILLERSTR. 7 Kunsthalle
AM WALL
8 Überseemuseum
REMBERTIRING
MALLET-
WEG ALTSTADT CON RICHTWEG Musical-
BGM-Smidt- SÖGESTR. SCHÜS S E L - S t adtgraben Theater
Brücke KOR B
TRESC ARPE
Beck’s OBERNSTRASSE 0 metres 500
GROSSENENSTR .
Brewery
Liebfrauen-
Neues Museum MARKT- kirche 0 yards 500
Weserburg PLATZ Rathaus AM WALL
MARTINISTRASSE
WASSERPROMENADE
Schütting AM DOM VIOLENSTR.
Dom
Haus der
Bürgerschaft
Roselius- CONTRESCARPE
TEERHOF
Weser
Haus BALGEBRÜCKSTR. OSTERTORSTR. BUCHTSTR.
Wilhelm- Johanniskirche
Kaisen-
Brücke Spielzeug-
Museum SCHNOOR MAR T ERBURG ALTENWALL AM WALL Gerhard-
Marcks-Haus
Packhaus Kunsthalle OSTERTORSTEINWEG
HERRLICHKEIT
St Jacobus Theater am
Flughafen Goetheplatz
5 km (3 miles) B LEICHE R S TRASSE
Schauspielhaus
OSTERDEICH
VERDEN AN
DER ALLER
For keys to symbols see back flap
434-435_EW_Germany.indd 435 09/10/17 2:33 pm

436  NOR THERN GERM AN Y BREMEN  437


P Kunstsammlungen works by Dürer, Altdorfer,
Böttcherstraße Rubens, Jan Breughel, van Dyck Paula Modersohn­Becker (1876–1907)
Paula-Modersohn- and Rembrandt. There is also an A pupil of Fritz Mackensen and wife of Otto Modersohn, Paula
Becker-Museum and excellent French section, with Modersohn-Becker was the most significant artistic figure in
Roseliushaus works by Delacroix, Denis, Worpswede. She learned about the Impressionist use of colour
Böttcherstraße 6–10. Tel (0421) Monet and Manet, as well as during visits to Paris, and her own
338 8222. Open 11am–6pm 19th- and 20th-century Germ an unique sensibility made her a
Tue–Sun. ∑ pmbm.de painters such as Beckmann and precursor of Expressionism. She
This once insignificant Kirchner. At the heart of the col- became famous for her naturalistic
lane where coopers lived lection are about 40 paintings paintings of poor, starving and
was transformed into Art by Paula Modersohn-Becker. even dying country folk. She died
Deco style in 1926–30 by in childbirth, aged only 31, and
this is how she was comme-
Ludwig Roselius, a E Übersee-Museum morated on her tombstone, in
wealthy coffee merchant. Archangel Michael fighting a dragon, on a bas-relief Bahnhofplatz 13. Tel (0421) 160 38 the peaceful village cemetery
The National Socialists in Böttcherstraße 101. Open 9am–6pm Tue–Fri, in Worpswede, by the sculptor
preserved the street as an 10am–6pm Sat & Sun. & Bernhard Hoetger. Exhibits in the Große Kunstschau in
example of degenerate art. At teems with restaurants, cafés, This museum of overseas Worpswede near Bremen
the entrance to the street is a souvenir shops and tourists. In cou ntries transports the visitor
bas-relief by Bernhard Hoetger the centre of the district is the to faraway destinations. Foun- Girl playing a flute in birch woods (1905) Above the town rises the Dom
from 1920, of the Archangel Gothic Johanniskirche, which ded in 1891, it was originally a with a large, steep roof. The hall,
Michael fighting a dragon. once belonged to the Franc- museum of German colon ialism a modification of earlier basil icas,
The Paula-Modersohn- iscans. In accordance with the and is now dedicated to the This wonderful marine museum, on the painters: Fritz Mackensen, is architecturally inter esting, with
Becker-Museum, built in the order’s rules it has no tower, culture of non-European designed by the renowned Otto Modersohn, Hans am Ende, a multi-sided presbytery, a
Expressionist style, contains an although this is compensated nations. Of special interest are archi tect Hans Scharoun, Fritz Overbeck and Heinrich passageway dating from 1268–
art museum, while in the for by a decor ative gable on the exhibits on Pacific cultures, with displays both ori ginals and Vogeler. Unques tionably the 1311, Roman esque cloisters and
neighbouring 16th-century western façade, and three levels life-sized models of houses and models of a wide range of ships, greatest artist in Worpswede was a tower. North of the cathedral is
Ros eliushaus the original of arched alcoves and herring- boats from the Solomon Islands. dating from the Roman Empire Paula Modersohn-Becker, whose the Dom herrenhaus, housing
period interiors can be admired. bone brickwork. The Spiel- to the present day. A special sad fairy-tale world of rustic the Historisches Museum, with
The street’s other attraction is a zeugmuseum (toy museum) E Focke-Museum hall displays the Hanse Kogge, subjects cannot be defined exhi bits on regional history and
carillon which chimes tuneful nearby is also worth visiting. Schwachhauser-Heerstraße 240. a merchant ship dredged from within one style. Work by the archaeological and ethnographic
melodies every day at noon, Tel (0421) 699 60 00. Open 10am– the bottom of the Weser River in founding members is on display departments.
3pm and 6pm. E Kunsthalle 9pm Tue, 10am–5pm Wed–Sun. & 1962. Displayed outside, in the Große Kunstschau and The Deutsches Auswanderer­
Am Wall 207. Tel (0421) 32 90 80. The excellent collections of this in the open-air part of the the Worpsweder Kunsthalle. haus Bremerhaven traces the
P Schnoorviertel Open 10am–9pm Tue, 10am–5pm museum compensate for its museum, are the last great Verden an der Aller, the history of more than 7 million
Spielzeugmuseum: Schnoor 24. Tel Wed–Sun. &∑ kunsthalle- distant location. Founded in German sailing boat Seute Deern, picturesque bishops’ residence Germans who emigrated via
(0421) 32 03 82. Open 10am–6pm daily. bremen.de 1918, when the history museum the polar ship Grönland and and once a free town of the Bremerhaven, especially to the
This his toric district of small This art gallery on the edge of was amalgamated with the Wilhelm Bauer, a U-boat from Reich, is known to sports United States.
houses dates from the 15th– the old town lost most of its decorative arts museum, it World War II. enthus iasts thanks to its horse- =
18th centuries. One of Bremen’s collection to Russia during World presents Bremen’s art and The small village of Worps­ racing tracks, training centres E Deutsches Schifffahrts­
poorest areas before World War II, War II. The pieces that remained, culture from the Middle Ages to wede, northeast of Bremen, and stadiums, and the museum
it miraculously escaped as well as works subsequently the present day. Exhibits from takes the visitor into the world of Deutsches Pferdemuseum Bremerhaven, Hans-Scharoun-Platz 1.
destruction. It has been restored acquired, make the collection patr ician houses and original art. From 1889 until the end of (horse museum), with a large Tel (0471) 482 070. Open Mar–Oct:
gradually since 1958 and now of great importance. There are sculpt ures from the façade of World War II it was a famous arti- collection of arti facts. Seven 10am–6pm daily; Nov–Feb: 10am–
the town hall testify to the sts’ colony, situated in the middle horse auctions are held in the 6pm Tue–Sun. &
wealth of the Hanseatic town. of peat bogs. Apart from poets, town each year, the main ones E Große Kunstschau
Other sections are devoted to such as Rainer Maria Rilke, and being in Worpswede. Lindenallee 3 & 5.
the archaeology of the region such architects as Bernhard Hoe- April and Tel (04792) 13 02. Open Mar–Oct:
as well as to whali ng and tger, the fame of this village October. 10am–6pm daily; Nov–Mar: 10am–
emigration to the US in the rested principally 6pm Tue–Sun. &
19th and 20th centuries. E Worpsweder Kunsthalle
The nearby Rhododendron- Worpswede, Bergstraße 17. Tel
park offers a pleasant respite (04792) 12 77. Open Apr–Oct: 10am–
from the museums. It includes 6pm daily; Nov–Mar: 11am–6pm daily.
1,600 varieties of rhododendron &
which become a sea of flowers
from late April to June. E Deutsches Pferdemuseum
Verden, Holzmarkt 9. Tel (04231) 80 71
Environs 40. Open 10am–5pm Tue–Sun.
Three places in the Bremen area E Deutsches Auswanderer haus
are particularly worth a detour. Bremerhaven
About 50 km (31 miles) to the Columbusstraße 65. Tel (0471) 90220-
north lies Bremen’s deep-sea 0. Open Mar–Oct: 10am–6pm daily;
harbour Bremerhaven, with the Nov–Feb: 10am–5pm daily.
Camille Pissarro, Girl lying on a grassy slope, Kunsthalle Deutsches Schifffahrts museum. The Dom in Verden an der Aller, with its unusually large roof ∑ dah­bremerhaven.de
For hotels and restaurants in this area see pp501–502 and pp529–30


436-437_EW_Germany.indd 436 09/10/17 2:33 pm 436-437_EW_Germany.indd 437 09/10/17 2:33 pm
Eyewitness Travel LAYERS PRINTED:
Catalogue template “UK” LAYER
(Source v2.2)
Date 15th January 2013
Size 125mm x 217mm

BREMEN  437


Paula Modersohn­Becker (1876–1907)
A pupil of Fritz Mackensen and wife of Otto Modersohn, Paula
Modersohn-Becker was the most significant artistic figure in
Worpswede. She learned about the Impressionist use of colour
during visits to Paris, and her own
unique sensibility made her a
precursor of Expressionism. She
became famous for her naturalistic
paintings of poor, starving and
even dying country folk. She died
in childbirth, aged only 31, and
this is how she was comme-
morated on her tombstone, in
the peaceful village cemetery
in Worpswede, by the sculptor
Bernhard Hoetger. Exhibits in the Große Kunstschau in
Worpswede near Bremen
Girl playing a flute in birch woods (1905) Above the town rises the Dom
with a large, steep roof. The hall,
a modification of earlier basil icas,
This wonderful marine museum, on the painters: Fritz Mackensen, is architecturally inter esting, with
designed by the renowned Otto Modersohn, Hans am Ende, a multi-sided presbytery, a
archi tect Hans Scharoun, Fritz Overbeck and Heinrich passageway dating from 1268–
displays both ori ginals and Vogeler. Unques tionably the 1311, Roman esque cloisters and
models of a wide range of ships, greatest artist in Worpswede was a tower. North of the cathedral is
dating from the Roman Empire Paula Modersohn-Becker, whose the Dom herrenhaus, housing
to the present day. A special sad fairy-tale world of rustic the Historisches Museum, with
hall displays the Hanse Kogge, subjects cannot be defined exhi bits on regional history and
a merchant ship dredged from within one style. Work by the archaeological and ethnographic
the bottom of the Weser River in founding members is on display departments.
1962. Displayed outside, in the Große Kunstschau and The Deutsches Auswanderer­
in the open-air part of the the Worpsweder Kunsthalle. haus Bremerhaven traces the
museum, are the last great Verden an der Aller, the history of more than 7 million
German sailing boat Seute Deern, picturesque bishops’ residence Germans who emigrated via
the polar ship Grönland and and once a free town of the Bremerhaven, especially to the
Wilhelm Bauer, a U-boat from Reich, is known to sports United States.
World War II. enthus iasts thanks to its horse- =
The small village of Worps­ racing tracks, training centres E Deutsches Schifffahrts­
wede, northeast of Bremen, and stadiums, and the museum
takes the visitor into the world of Deutsches Pferdemuseum Bremerhaven, Hans-Scharoun-Platz 1.
art. From 1889 until the end of (horse museum), with a large Tel (0471) 482 070. Open Mar–Oct:
World War II it was a famous arti- collection of arti facts. Seven 10am–6pm daily; Nov–Feb: 10am–
sts’ colony, situated in the middle horse auctions are held in the 6pm Tue–Sun. &
of peat bogs. Apart from poets, town each year, the main ones E Große Kunstschau
such as Rainer Maria Rilke, and being in Worpswede. Lindenallee 3 & 5.
such architects as Bernhard Hoe- April and Tel (04792) 13 02. Open Mar–Oct:
tger, the fame of this village October. 10am–6pm daily; Nov–Mar: 10am–
rested principally 6pm Tue–Sun. &
E Worpsweder Kunsthalle
Worpswede, Bergstraße 17. Tel
(04792) 12 77. Open Apr–Oct: 10am–
6pm daily; Nov–Mar: 11am–6pm daily.
&
E Deutsches Pferdemuseum
Verden, Holzmarkt 9. Tel (04231) 80 71
40. Open 10am–5pm Tue–Sun.
E Deutsches Auswanderer haus
Bremerhaven
Columbusstraße 65. Tel (0471) 90220-
0. Open Mar–Oct: 10am–6pm daily;
Nov–Feb: 10am–5pm daily.
The Dom in Verden an der Aller, with its unusually large roof ∑ dah­bremerhaven.de




436-437_EW_Germany.indd 437 09/10/17 2:33 pm

438  NOR THERN GERM AN Y HA MBURG  439

8 Hamburg P Binnenalster of maritime history, it includes VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
Elegant arcades lead from the model ships, sea charts, sextants
Germany’s second largest city, Hamburg has an openness Rathausmarkt to Binnenalster, a and compasses, and a copy of the Practical Information
to the world and a variety of architectural styles in its districts, large lake in the middle of the first nautical atlas ever printed. In Road map C2. * 1.7 million.
n Hauptbahnhof, Kirchenallee
making it a fascinating place to visit. For many years, city. Like the larger Außenalster celebration of the area’s maritime (040-30 05 701) Open 9am– 7pm
Hamburg was a leading member of the Hanseatic League to the north, it was created by history, traditional sailing ships Mon–Sat, 10am–6pm Sun & hols;
line the Magellan Terraces and
damming the Alster River. On a
and an indepen dent trading town, and in 1945 it became a sunny day, the elegant riverside can be spotted from the curved in the port, Landungsbrücken
city-state of the Federal Republic. Visitors are attracted by boulevard of Jungfernstieg is a pontoon walkways in the harbor (040-30 05 12 03). ∑ hamburg-
Hamburg’s enormous port, situated right in the centre pleasant place for a walk. Great basin of Sandtorhafen. This tourism.de Hafenrundfahrten
(harbour tours): Tel (040) 311 70
of the city, colourful entertainments in the red-light district views of the city can be had from Traditionsschiffhafen (trad itional 70 & 31 31 40. Open Apr–Oct:
St Pauli, many attractive parks and lakes as well as the warm the café in the Alsterpavilion. ship harbour) is run by the The Expressionist Chilehaus once every 1.5 hrs,10:30am–
Hamburg Maritime Foundation.
From a small quay, boats depart
welcome extended by the locals who, on first encounter, for the “Alster rundfahrt”, a cruise in Kontorhausviertel 4:30pm; Nov–Mar: call for times.
_ Hafengeburtstag (anniversary
may seem a little cool. to the Außen alster and to smaller P Kontorhausviertel of the port, around 7 May).
canals offering views of the A district of commercial offices into dramatic exhibition halls in
villas in the north of Hamburg known as Kontorhausviertel was 1997 and are now used for major Transport
P Rathausmarkt and the cityscape of the centre built between Mönckebergstraße, art exhibitions. k in Fuhlsbüttel, U1 or S1 to
The symbol of Hamburg is the with its five main towers. Steinstraße and Messberg at the Ohlsdorf, then Airport Express
(40 min). £ Kirchenallee.
enormous Neo-Renaissance start of the 20th century. Together P Speicherstadt
town hall, the fifth in the city’s R St Petrikirche with nearby Speicherstadt, this Located within the toll-free area
history. Previous town halls were Mönckebergstraße Tel (040) 325 74 historic quarter is UNESCO World of the port, this giant warehouse
destroyed by wars as well as a 00. Open 10am–6:30pm Mon, Tue, Heritage listed. Chilehaus, built district is reached after crossing monu ments, Speicherstadt now
catastrophic fire in 1842. Little Thu, Fri; 10am–7pm Wed; 10am–5pm by Fritz Höger in 1922–4, is the the customs post. It is the largest houses the Speicherstadt
remains of the old town. Sat; 9am–9pm Sun. most famous,, with its pointed complex of ware houses in the Museum.
The city’s current The church of St Petri, eastern façade resembling a world. The Neo-Gothic buildings, E Deutches Zollmuseum
appearance is origin ally Gothic, was ship’s bow. dating from the end of the 19th Alter Wandrahm 16, 20457. Tel (040)
characterized by extensively rebuilt century, are separated by canals. 30 08 76 20. Open 10am–5pm Tue–
19th-century style in the Neo-Gothic P Deichtorhallen Modern industries, such as multi- Sun. ∑ museum.zoll.de
as well as Modern- style after the Great Deichtorstraße 1–2. Open 11am–6pm media companies, are slowly Located by Kornhaus brücke tells
ism. The town hall Fire of 1842. The Tue–Sun (during exhibitions). replacing the storerooms packed the story of customs and excise
itself, with its Grabower Altar that The enormous market halls of the with spices, coffee and carpets. from the Roman Empire to the
ornamental halls, is once belonged to the port built in 1911–12 were turned Listed as one of the city’s historic present day.
worth visiting. Door knocker on church has been
A fountain in the Neo-Renaissance The town hall square St Petrikirche transferred to the
Rathausmarkt is enclosed on one side Kunst halle (see Hamburg City Centre
NEUER JUNGFERNSTIEG
by Alster fleet. Once a small river, pp440–41). Tourists can still 1 Rathausmarkt LOMBARDSBRÜCKE FlughafenFlughafen
LOMBARDSBRÜCKE
Exploring Hamburg it is now one of the many canals admire the Gothic sculpture of 2 Binnenalster NEUER JUNGFERNSTIEG 20 km (12 miles)20 km (12 miles)
The best way to get around is that have earned Hamburg the the Madonna, dating from 1470. 3 St Petrikirche KunsthalleKunsthalle DeutschesDeutsches
by metro (U-Bahn and S-Bahn), name “the Venice of the North”. 4 Hafen City BinnenalsterBinnenalster SchauspielhausSchauspielhaus
BALLINDAMM
on an all-day ticket (Tageskarte). A monument by artist Ernst P HafenCity BALLINDAMM Hauptbahnhof-Hauptbahnhof-
NordNord
GROSSE BLEICHEN
The city centre can be explored Barlach pays tribute to the Still under development, with a 5 Kontorhausviertel JUNGFERNSTIEG Jungfern-Jungfern- FERDINANDSTR. BRANDSENDE HauptbahnhofHauptbahnhof
RABOISEN
RABOISEN
FERDINANDSTR. BRANDSENDE
stiegstieg
on foot, including the main victims of World War I. Between projected completion date of 6 Deichtorhallen GROSSE BLEICHEN KURZE-
JUNGFERNSTIEG
HERMANN-
railway station, the lake, the old Rathausmarkt and Gän semarkt 2025, HafenCity is a huge project 7 Speicherstadt POSTSTR. HERMANN- MÜHREN STEINTORWALL AHRENSBURGAHRENSBURG
KURZE-
STR.
STR.
POSTSTR.
MÜHREN
NEUER WALL
town, the port and Hamburg’s is a network of elegantly roofed that involves redeveloping the 8 Deutches Zollmuseum FUHLENTWIETE HEUBERG BLEICHENBR. Mönckebergstr.
STEINTORWALL
MÖNCKEBERGSTR.
two largest museums. 19th-century shopping arcades. old city port, expanding the city 9 Kunsthalle NEUER WALL RATHAUS-RATHAUS- BERGSTR. MÖNCKEBERGSTR. MÜHREN LANGE- Hauptbahnhof-Hauptbahnhof-
MARKTMARKT
BUGENHAGENSTR.
BUGENHAGENSTR.
BERGSTR.
by as much as 40 per cent. While 0 Altstadt (Old Town) RathausRathaus STEINSTR. SudSud
LANGE-
HEUBERG BLEICHENBR.
STEINSTR.
Mönckebergstr. MÜHREN
FUHLENTWIETE
parts of this exciting new quarter StadthausbrückeStadthausbrücke RathausRathaus St PetrikircheSt Petrikirche SPEERSORT JakobikircheJakobikirche
SPEERSORT
ALTER WALL
& Börse& Börse
are still under construction, some ALTER WALL BURGER STR. ALTSTÄDTER STR. Steinstr.Steinstr. KLOSTERWALL
SCHAUEN-
ALTSTÄDTER STR.
SCHAUEN-
HERRENGRABEN
BURGER STR.
GROSSER BURSTAH
landmarks are now open to the LUDWIG-ERHARD-STR. GROSSER BURSTAH ChilehausChilehaus
DOMSTR.
KLOSTERWALL
LUDWIG-ERHARD-STR.
public. Designed by Herzog & de MichaeliskircheMichaeliskirche HERRENGRABEN NikolaikircheNikolaikirche DOMSTR.
Meuron, the Elbphilharmonie KrameramtswohnungenKrameramtswohnungen RödingsmarktRödingsmarkt WILLY-BRANDT-STRASSE E MessbergMessberg Deichtor-Deichtor-
RÖDINGSMARKT
WILLY-BRANDT-STRASS
DOVENFLEET
concert hall contains two Alsterfleet Alsterfleet KL. BURSTAH DOVENFLEET DEICHTORSTR.
hallenhallen
BRÜCKE
auditoriums, a five-star hotel, a SCHAARSTEINWEG RÖDINGSMARKT Katharinen-Katharinen- OBERBAUM- BRÜCKE
OBERBAUM- DEICHTORSTR.
KL. BURSTAH
ALTER WANDRAHM
SCHAARSTEINWEG
STUBBENHUK
BEI DEN MÜHREN
kirchekirche
popular viewing platform and 45 DEICHSTR. DEICHSTR. CREMON KATHARINENSTR. BEI DEN MÜHREN ALTER WANDRAHM
CREMON
KATHARINENSTR.
NEUER WANDRAHM
apartments. The 108-m (354-ft) St Pauli,St Pauli, STUBBENHUK K AJEN NEUER WANDRAHM DeutschesDeutsches
Fischmarkt,Fischmarkt,
BROOKTORKAI
Zollmuseum Zollmuseum
K AJEN
tall building was constructed LandungsbrückenLandungsbrücken BaumwallBaumwall Binnenhafen BROOKTORKAI ERICUSBR.
Binnenhafen
B AUMWALL
VORSETZEN
with acoustics in mind and is VORSETZEN B AUMWALL SpeicherstadtmuseumSpeicherstadtmuseum
ERICUSBR.
KEHRWIEDER
topped by a vast glass wave-like ElbeElbe KEHRWIEDER InternationalInternational
Maritimes MuseumMaritimes Museum
structure. Also in HafenCity is 0 metres 250 A M S A N D T O R K A OSAKAALLEE
A M S A N D T O R K A I I
the Internationales Maritimes Magellan TerrassenMagellan Terrassen
OSAKAALLEE
Museum, in the historic Kais- 0 yards 250 VASCO-DA-VASCO-DA- ÜBERSEEALLEE
ÜBERSEEALLEE
peicher B warehouse building. GAMA- PLATZGAMA- PLATZ
The Elbphilharmonie building in the port of Hamburg Covering more than 3,000 years ÜberseequartierÜberseequartier HafenCityHafenCity
UniversitätUniversität
For hotels and restaurants in this area see pp501–502 and pp529–31 For keys to symbols see back flap
438-439_EW_Germany.indd 438 09/10/17 12:50 pm 438-439_EW_Germany.indd 439 09/10/17 12:50 pm

HA MBURG  439


of maritime history, it includes VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
model ships, sea charts, sextants
and compasses, and a copy of the Practical Information
first nautical atlas ever printed. In Road map C2. * 1.7 million.
celebration of the area’s maritime n Hauptbahnhof, Kirchenallee
history, traditional sailing ships (040-30 05 701) Open 9am– 7pm
line the Magellan Terraces and Mon–Sat, 10am–6pm Sun & hols;
can be spotted from the curved in the port, Landungsbrücken
pontoon walkways in the harbor (040-30 05 12 03). ∑ hamburg-
basin of Sandtorhafen. This tourism.de Hafenrundfahrten
(harbour tours): Tel (040) 311 70
Traditionsschiffhafen (trad itional 70 & 31 31 40. Open Apr–Oct:
ship harbour) is run by the once every 1.5 hrs,10:30am–
Hamburg Maritime Foundation. The Expressionist Chilehaus 4:30pm; Nov–Mar: call for times.
in Kontorhausviertel _ Hafengeburtstag (anniversary
P Kontorhausviertel of the port, around 7 May).
A district of commercial offices into dramatic exhibition halls in
known as Kontorhausviertel was 1997 and are now used for major Transport
k in Fuhlsbüttel, U1 or S1 to
built between Mönckebergstraße, art exhibitions. Ohlsdorf, then Airport Express
Steinstraße and Messberg at the (40 min). £ Kirchenallee.
start of the 20th century. Together P Speicherstadt
with nearby Speicherstadt, this Located within the toll-free area
historic quarter is UNESCO World of the port, this giant warehouse
Heritage listed. Chilehaus, built district is reached after crossing monu ments, Speicherstadt now
by Fritz Höger in 1922–4, is the the customs post. It is the largest houses the Speicherstadt
most famous,, with its pointed complex of ware houses in the Museum.
eastern façade resembling a world. The Neo-Gothic buildings, E Deutches Zollmuseum
ship’s bow. dating from the end of the 19th Alter Wandrahm 16, 20457. Tel (040)
century, are separated by canals. 30 08 76 20. Open 10am–5pm Tue–
P Deichtorhallen Modern industries, such as multi- Sun. ∑ museum.zoll.de
Deichtorstraße 1–2. Open 11am–6pm media companies, are slowly Located by Kornhaus brücke tells
Tue–Sun (during exhibitions). replacing the storerooms packed the story of customs and excise
The enormous market halls of the with spices, coffee and carpets. from the Roman Empire to the
port built in 1911–12 were turned Listed as one of the city’s historic present day.

Hamburg City Centre
1 Rathausmarkt LOMBARDSBRÜCKE Flughafen
20 km (12 miles)
2 Binnenalster NEUER JUNGFERNSTIEG
Deutsches
3 St Petrikirche Binnenalster Kunsthalle Schauspielhaus
4 Hafen City Hauptbahnhof-
5 Kontorhausviertel JUNGFERNSTIEG Jungfern- BALLINDAMM Nord
RABOISEN
6 Deichtorhallen GROSSE BLEICHEN stieg FERDINANDSTR. BRANDSENDE Hauptbahnhof
7 Speicherstadt POSTSTR. HERMANN- MÜHREN STEINTORWALL
KURZE-
8 Deutches Zollmuseum HEUBERG BLEICHENBR. STR. Mönckebergstr. AHRENSBURG
9 Kunsthalle FUHLENTWIETE NEUER WALL RATHAUS- BERGSTR. MÖNCKEBERGSTR. MÜHREN LANGE-
MARKT
0 Altstadt (Old Town) Rathaus BUGENHAGENSTR. Hauptbahnhof-
Sud
Rathaus St Petrikirche Jakobikirche STEINSTR.
Stadthausbrücke ALTER WALL & Börse BURGER STR. SPEERSORT ALTSTÄDTER STR. Steinstr. KLOSTERWALL
SCHAUEN-
HERRENGRABEN GROSSER BURSTAH DOMSTR. Chilehaus
LUDWIG-ERHARD-STR.
Michaeliskirche Nikolaikirche
Krameramtswohnungen Rödingsmarkt Messberg Deichtor-
Alsterfleet KL. BURSTAH WILLY-BRANDT-STRASSE DEICHTORSTR.
DOVENFLEET
hallen
SCHAARSTEINWEG RÖDINGSMARKT Katharinen- ALTER WANDRAHM OBERBAUM- BRÜCKE
kirche
St Pauli, STUBBENHUK DEICHSTR. CREMON KATHARINENSTR. BEI DEN MÜHREN Deutsches
Fischmarkt, K AJEN Zollmuseum
Landungsbrücken NEUER WANDRAHM BROOKTORKAI
Baumwall Binnenhafen ERICUSBR.
B AUMWALL Speicherstadtmuseum
VORSETZEN
Elbe KEHRWIEDER International
Maritimes Museum
A M S A N D T O R K A I
0 metres 250
Magellan Terrassen
OSAKAALLEE
0 yards 250
VASCO-DA- ÜBERSEEALLEE
GAMA- PLATZ
Überseequartier HafenCity
Universität
For keys to symbols see back flap
438-439_EW_Germany.indd 439 09/10/17 12:50 pm

440  NOR THERN GERM AN Y HA MBURG  441

Kunsthalle . Morning (1808) VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
This painting by Philipp Otto
Northern Germany's most interesting art Runge centres around Aurora, Practical Information
goddess of dawn, and was
gallery, the Kunsthalle has a tradition dating intended to be part of a series Glockengießerwall. Tel (040) 428
back to 1817, when the Kunstverein (friends of called “Times of the Day”. The 131 200. Open 10am–6pm Tue–
Wed & Fri–Sun, 10am–9pm Thu.
the fine arts), proudly middle-class and non- other works were never & Library: Open 11am–5pm
aristocratic, was established. It opened to the completed due to the Tue, Wed & Fri, 11am–9pm Thu.
artist’s untimely death
public in 1869. An extension was added in 1919 aged 33. Café: Open 10am–11pm Tue,
and the symbiosis of both buildings is called 17 Wed & Fri–Sun, 10am–9pm Thu.
∑ hamburger-kunsthalle.de
Lichtwark Galerie, after Alfred Lichtwark, the
first director of the Kunsthalle. The collection 15
15
has a standard chronological review of 14 16 18
14
16
13
13
European art movements, with an emphasis on 12
12
19th-century German Romantics, with works by 11 7 7
Caspar David Friedrich and Philipp Otto Runge. . Hannah and Simeon in the Temple 10 6 6 19
A second four-storey extension, the Galerie der (around1627) With his mastery of a sense 9
of drama, Rembrandt succeeded in
Gegenwart (contemporary gallery), was built in depicting the psychological make- 8 5 20 24
1996 to a design by the architect O M Ungers. up of his elderly subjects, who 25
have recognized the Saviour 4 21 26
in an unspoken message 27
conveyed to the 3 34 22 28
temple by Mary 29
and Joseph. 2 33 23 23 30
31
31
1
32
32 64
45 46 63
62
35 The Polar Sea (1823–4)
44 61 Caspar David Friedrich’s dramatic seascape, with a sinking ship in
61
60
High Altar of St Peter in Hamburg (1383) 43 36 60 the background behind the rising flow, is loaded with symbolism.
59
This panelled painting, displaying a 59
58
stunning wealth of detail, was produced by 39 37 58
Master Bertram of Minden, the first artist in 42 38 57 Gallery Guide
Germany to be identified by his name. 56 On the ground floor, Rooms 54–63 house the
40 Transparent Museum, offering an insight into
55
Self-Portrait with Model the work of the museum makers. Also on this
(1910 and 1926) Sixteen 41 floor are prints, drawings and sculptures. On
years after first painting this the first floor, Rooms 1–15 contain works by the
picture, Ernst Ludwig 54 old masters. In Rooms 16–34, paintings from
Kirchner repainted areas, in the 19th century are exhibited, and Rooms
order to emphasize the 35–46 display Modern Art (1900–1960).
distance between model
and artist.
Nana (1877) The
subject of Édouard
Manet’s painting was
the heroine of a Zola
novel. Manet was not
allowed to exhibit the
painting in the Paris
Key Salon because Nana
. Girls on the Gallery of old masters was known as a
Pier (1901) This Parisian courtesan.
painting is one of six 19th-century paintings
variations on the same Modern Art (1900–1960)
theme painted by Edvard Drawings, prints and statues
Munch. The painter omitted
the landscape, concen trating Transparent Museum
on the relationship and Non-exhibition space
tensions between the girls.
Entrance
For hotels and restaurants in this area see pp501–502 and pp529–31
440-441_EW_Germany.indd 440 09/10/17 12:50 pm 440-441_EW_Germany.indd 441 09/10/17 12:50 pm

HA MBURG  441


. Morning (1808) VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
This painting by Philipp Otto
Runge centres around Aurora, Practical Information
goddess of dawn, and was Glockengießerwall. Tel (040) 428
intended to be part of a series 131 200. Open 10am–6pm Tue–
called “Times of the Day”. The Wed & Fri–Sun, 10am–9pm Thu.
other works were never & Library: Open 11am–5pm
completed due to the Tue, Wed & Fri, 11am–9pm Thu.
artist’s untimely death Café: Open 10am–11pm Tue,
aged 33. Wed & Fri–Sun, 10am–9pm Thu.
17
∑ hamburger-kunsthalle.de
15
13 14 16 18
12
7
6 19
20 24
25
21 26
22 28 27

23 30 29
31
32 64
63
62
61 The Polar Sea (1823–4)
60 Caspar David Friedrich’s dramatic seascape, with a sinking ship in
the background behind the rising flow, is loaded with symbolism.
59
58
Gallery Guide
On the ground floor, Rooms 54–63 house the
Transparent Museum, offering an insight into
the work of the museum makers. Also on this
floor are prints, drawings and sculptures. On
the first floor, Rooms 1–15 contain works by the
old masters. In Rooms 16–34, paintings from
the 19th century are exhibited, and Rooms
35–46 display Modern Art (1900–1960).

Nana (1877) The
subject of Édouard
Manet’s painting was
the heroine of a Zola
novel. Manet was not
allowed to exhibit the
painting in the Paris
Key Salon because Nana
was known as a
Gallery of old masters Parisian courtesan.
19th-century paintings
Modern Art (1900–1960)
Drawings, prints and statues
Transparent Museum
Non-exhibition space






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442  NOR THERN GERM AN Y HA MBURG  443


P Altstadt (Old Town) Situated 104 km behind a metal barrier – land). This area is fertile and has
Hamburg’s old town extends (62 miles) inland along women and those under 18 the largest number of orchards
to the south of the Rathaus the Elbe River, Hamburg are forbidden entrance. St Pauli in Germany. Many visitors come
(town hall) but, following the is Europe’s second larg- even has an Erotic-Museum, here in May, when cherry and
Great Fire of 1842 and est port after Rotterdam, where next to the exhibits are apple tree blossom turns
bombing during World War II, and the port dominates reproductions of works by everything into a sea of white
only a few original buildings the panorama. Every artists from Rembrandt to and pink. In this riot of colour
remain. Katharinenkirche year 12,000 ships dock Picasso, which are said to stand sturdy red-brick houses
(St Catherine’s), with its here from 90 countries. “prove” that everything revolves with white half-timbered panels,
characteristic tower, was From the U3 Baumwall around the female posterior. thatched roofs and carved
begun in the 13th century and The transport hub of Landungsbrücken in St Pauli metro station it is best gates. The most beautiful
completed in the 17th cen tury. to walk to Landungs­ Environs villages are Neuenfelde, Jork,
It has been restored after The interior is preserved in a brücken, past the museum The magnificent palace in Borstel, Steinkirchen and
damage in World War II. Of white, grey and gold colour ships moored here: the freighter Ahrensburg (1595), 23 km Hollern, with their richly
the neighbouring Neo-Gothic scheme, and some of the fittings Cap San Diego and the sailing (14 miles) to the northeast, furnished Baroque churches.
Nikolaikirche only a single are made from tropical wood. boat Rickmer Rickmers (1896). has Baroque and Rococo
tower remained after 1945, the The observation platform offers Landungsbrücken is a 200-m interiors open to visitors.
Nikolaiturm, which is the third splendid views of the city and (656-ft) long building from 0 Stade
tallest in Germany. It serves as its extensive harbour. where the passenger ferries Road map C2. * 47,000.
a monument to the tragic depart. A tour of the harbour £ U3 to Neugraben, then by train or
consequences of war. P Krameramtswohnungen is highly recommended. Near catamaran from Landungsbrücken.
Deichstraße is one of a Krayenkamp 10. Tel (040) 37 50 19 88. Landungsbrücken, in a copper- n Hansestraße 16 (04141-40 91 70). The Baroque portal of the Dutch-
few surviving streets in the Open 31 Mar–29 Nov: 10am–5pm domed building, is the entrance ∑ stade-tourismus.de influenced Rathaus in Stade
old town, with the original Tue–Sun; 30 Nov–30 Mar: 10am–5pm to Alter Elbtunnel (the old
façades still visible from both Sat & Sun. tunnel under the Elbe) where This medieval Hanseatic town entire old town is surrounded
the road and the canal (the Near the Michaeliskirche, a people and cars are lowered has retained most of its half- by preserved modern fortifi-
best view can be had from the section of the old town, the in a giant lift. timbered buildings, with the cations. Other attractions are
Hohe Brücke bridge). One of Krameramtswohnungen, has most attractive in the Alter the Bürger meister-Hintze-
the many famous local miraculously survived. These P St Pauli Façade of Schloß Ahrensburg, flanked Hafen (old harbour). There is a Haus at Am Wasser West 23,
restaurants is “Zum Brandanfang”, half-timbered houses were Infamous around the world, by towers also a quaint crane and the a house built for the mayor,
at No. 25. It is here that the funded by the merchants’ guild this area is also known as Schwedenspeicher (Swedish Hintze, in 1617–46, and the
Great Fire of 1842, which and built to house the widows Reeperbahn, after the main granary) dating from the Swedish exquisite Baroque Rathaus
eventually destroyed most of shopkeepers. Today they street. It is a world of nightclubs 9 Altes Land occupation during the Thirty (town hall) from 1667, its design
of the city, was said to have are occupied by tourist shops, and bars, pubs and theatres, sex Road map C2. Years’ War (1692–1705). It is now revealing Dutch influence.
broken out. cafés and restaurants. clubs and brothels. It is here, in home to the Schwedenspeicher- The 14th-century Gothic
Hamburg’s red-light district, On the flood plains stretching Museum, a museum with church of St Wilhadi boasts an
g The Port that some teenage seasonal for more than 30 km (19 miles) exhibits on the town’s history interesting Gothic hall and a
Cap San Diego Tel (040) 36 42 09. wor kers from Liverpool, the between Hamburg and Stade, and defence system, including leaning tower, while St Cosmas
Open 10am–6pm daily. Rickmer Beatles, started their careers. along the Lower Elbe River, wheels from 700 BC, which and Damiani, founded after the
Rickmers Tel (040) 319 59 59. On Herbertstrasse, scantily clad is the Altes Land (old were part of a Bronze-Age Great Fire of 1659, features
Open 10am–8pm daily. women offer their ser vices cart. Nearby, an interesting marvellous Baroque furnishings.
building at Am Wasser
Fischmarkt – A Market for Everything West 7 houses the E Schwedenspeicher-Museum
Kaufmann Collection, Am Wasser West 39. Tel (04141) 79
This is an attraction for early risers or for those who never get to bed with works by Worps- 77 30. Open 10am–5pm Tue–Fri,
at all. From 5am (7am in winter) on Sundays the Auktionshalle wede artists. The 10am–6pm Sat & Sun. &
(auction hall) and the nearby waterside turn into a colourful market
place. Fishermen returning from the sea with their freshly caught fish
compete with noisy greengrocers offering their wares and bric-à-
brac merchants setting out stalls. Thousands of tourists mingle with
sailors and ladies of the night relaxing with a cup of steaming mulled
wine after a hard night’s work in St Pauli. Here and there you can hear
Plattdeutsch being spoken,
Ornate Baroque pulpit in the northern patois. Morning
Hamburg’s Michaeliskirche mass at 10am used to mark
the end of this colourful
R Michaeliskirche spectacle, but today’s public
Observation tower: Tel (040) 37 67 80. lingers on and then hurries
Open May–Oct: 9am–7:30pm daily, off to bed instead of church.
Nov–Apr: 10am–5:30pm daily.
The massive Baroque church
of St Michaelis, visible from
afar with its 132-m (433-ft) Bric-à-brac on sale at a market
tower (the “Michel”), is the stall in Fischmarkt
main symbol of Hamburg. The half-timbered houses along the waterside of Alter Hafen in Stade
For hotels and restaurants in this area see pp501–502 and pp529–31


442-443_EW_Germany.indd 442 09/10/17 12:50 pm 442-443_EW_Germany.indd 443 09/10/17 12:50 pm

HA MBURG  443


behind a metal barrier – land). This area is fertile and has
women and those under 18 the largest number of orchards
are forbidden entrance. St Pauli in Germany. Many visitors come
even has an Erotic-Museum, here in May, when cherry and
where next to the exhibits are apple tree blossom turns
reproductions of works by everything into a sea of white
artists from Rembrandt to and pink. In this riot of colour
Picasso, which are said to stand sturdy red-brick houses
“prove” that everything revolves with white half-timbered panels,
around the female posterior. thatched roofs and carved
gates. The most beautiful
Environs villages are Neuenfelde, Jork,
The magnificent palace in Borstel, Steinkirchen and
Ahrensburg (1595), 23 km Hollern, with their richly
(14 miles) to the northeast, furnished Baroque churches.
has Baroque and Rococo
interiors open to visitors.
0 Stade
Road map C2. * 47,000.
£ U3 to Neugraben, then by train or
catamaran from Landungsbrücken.
n Hansestraße 16 (04141-40 91 70). The Baroque portal of the Dutch-
∑ stade-tourismus.de influenced Rathaus in Stade
This medieval Hanseatic town entire old town is surrounded
has retained most of its half- by preserved modern fortifi-
timbered buildings, with the cations. Other attractions are
most attractive in the Alter the Bürger meister-Hintze-
Façade of Schloß Ahrensburg, flanked Hafen (old harbour). There is a Haus at Am Wasser West 23,
by towers also a quaint crane and the a house built for the mayor,
Schwedenspeicher (Swedish Hintze, in 1617–46, and the
granary) dating from the Swedish exquisite Baroque Rathaus
9 Altes Land occupation during the Thirty (town hall) from 1667, its design
Years’ War (1692–1705). It is now revealing Dutch influence.
Road map C2.
home to the Schwedenspeicher- The 14th-century Gothic
On the flood plains stretching Museum, a museum with church of St Wilhadi boasts an
for more than 30 km (19 miles) exhibits on the town’s history interesting Gothic hall and a
between Hamburg and Stade, and defence system, including leaning tower, while St Cosmas
along the Lower Elbe River, wheels from 700 BC, which and Damiani, founded after the
is the Altes Land (old were part of a Bronze-Age Great Fire of 1659, features
cart. Nearby, an interesting marvellous Baroque furnishings.
building at Am Wasser
West 7 houses the E Schwedenspeicher-Museum
Kaufmann Collection, Am Wasser West 39. Tel (04141) 79
with works by Worps- 77 30. Open 10am–5pm Tue–Fri,
wede artists. The 10am–6pm Sat & Sun. &

















The half-timbered houses along the waterside of Alter Hafen in Stade




442-443_EW_Germany.indd 443 09/10/17 12:50 pm

444  NOR THERN GERM AN Y L OWER SA X ON Y , HA MBURG AND BREMEN  445


q Lüneburg provides grazing land for Kloster (monastery) with a
Heidschnucken, the local beautiful 13th–14th century
Road map D2. * 70,000. £
n Rathaus, Am Markt (04131- breed of sheep. The heather church. Worth seeing are its
207 66 20). ∑ lueneburg.de moors are best seen at the Gothic frescoes, the presbytery
Naturschutzpark Lüneburger vaults and the 14th- and
It is hard to believe Heide, a large area of nature 15th-century tapestries.
that this small, former reserve founded in 1921. From
Hanseatic town was once the village of Undeloh it is best E Deutsches Erdölmuseum
one of the wealthiest in to continue by foot, bike or Schwarzer Weg 7–9. Tel (05146) 92
Germany. Its prosperity carriage to the traditional village 340. Open Mar–Nov: 10am–5pm
was founded on salt A typical farmstead in Lüneburger Heide of Wilsede. From Wilsede it is Tue–Sun; Jun–Aug: 10am–6pm
mines. Opened in 956, not far to Wilseder Berg, the Tue–Sun. &
they provided work for On Lüner Straße stands the Altes highest peak of this moraine R Kloster Wienhausen
more than 2,000 people by the Kaufhaus, a former herring region. The view of the Tel (05149) 18 660. 8 Apr–Oct: 10 &
late Middle Ages and were the warehouse with a Baroque surrounding countryside is Vogelpark Walsrode – a paradise with 1,000 different bird species 11am, 2–5pm Tue–Sat, noon–5pm
largest industry in Europe. façade. The 14th-century wooden parti cularly beautiful at the end Sun. &
Lüneburg’s most important crane was rebuilt in the 1700s. of August, when the purple r Celle hall), a great example of Weser
monument is the Rathaus (town It was used to load salt onto heather is blooming. Road map C3. * 74,000. £ Renaissance (see p457) from 1579.
hall). The interior is even more ships. The decorative wavy brick Schloßplatz. n Markt 14–6 (05141-12 From the Stadtkirche church t Wolfsburg
intriguing than the frequently lines (Taustäbe) on many of the 12). _ Kunsthand werkermarkt tower great views unfold. The Road map D3. * 123,000. £
rebuilt façade, in particular the old buildings are characteristic e Soltau (Whitsun). ∑ celle-tourismus.de Baroque Synagoge, beyond the n Willy-Brandt-Platz 3 (05361-89
Großer Ratssaal (the main hall) of the town. Road map C2. * 23,000. n Am old town, is the only one 99 30). ∑ wolfsburg.de
with its Gothic stained-glass Alten Stadtgraben 3 (05191-82 82 82). Between 1378 and 1705, Celle surviving in northern Germany.
windows and 16th-century E Rathaus ∑ soltau.de was the seat of distant relations During the 1930s, this small
frescoes of the Last Judgement, Am Markt. Tel (04131) 30 92 30. of the Welf family, the reigning + Schloß village began to develop into a
as well as the Große Ratsstube 8 11am, 12:30pm, 2:30pm & 4pm The main attraction of the dynasty in the Duchy of Tel (05141) 12 454. Open Apr–Oct: sizeable town, based around
(council chamber) with Tue–Sat; 11am & 2pm Sun. town of Soltau is Heidepark Brunswick-Lüneburg. The Schloß 11am, noon, 1, 2 & 3pm Tue–Sun; the Volkswagen car works.
Renaissance woodwork by Soltau, a vast funfair with (castle), rebuilt in Renaissance Nov–Mar: 11am & 3pm Tue–Sun. & Production of the “people’s car”
Albert von Soest. A remarkable w Lüneburger trains, water rides and a style after 1533, has a façade with R Stadtkirche was conceived by Hitler – every
collection of municipal genuine Mississippi steamboat. octagonal towers, gables and bay Tel (05141) 7735. Open 10am–6pm German was to be able to afford
silverware can be found in the Heide For nature lovers, there is the windows. It is one of the main Tue–Sat. Tower: Apr–Oct: 10–11:45am this inexpensive car, designed
Ostpreußisches Landesmuseum. Road map C2. n Wallstraße 4, Vogelpark Walsrode, 20 km early-Renaissance buildings in 2–4:45pm Tue–Sat. by Ferdinand Porsche. The
Johanniskirche, one of Lüneburg (04131-30 99 60). (12 miles) southwest of Soltau. Germany. The Gothic chapel was u Synagoge model reached its peak during
Lüneburg’s three Gothic chur- ∑ lueneburger­heide.de It holds about 1,000 species of rebuilt in Mannerist style to a Im Kreise 24. Tel (05141) 12 12. the post-war economic boom
ches, stands on Am Sande. It birds, from penguins to birds design by Martin de Vos, who Open noon–5pm Mon–Thu, Sun; years. The Volkswagenwerk
has a 108-m (354-ft) west tower, South of Hamburg, between of paradise. Aviaries, some created 76 of its paintings, 10am–3pm Fri. factory is open to visitors.
which leans more than 2 m (6 ft) the rivers Elbe and Aller, is a 12-m (40-ft) tall, simulate the including the famous Crucifixion Wolfsburg also has some
from the perpendi cular. In one sprawling area of heathland, birds’ natural environment. (late 1500s). Environs outstanding examples of
of its five naves there is a grazed by heifers and sheep Celle prides itself on 500 half- The town of Wietze, 11 km modern architecture: a cultural
panelled painting dating from and buzzing with bees in the Y Heidepark Soltau timbered houses, with the most (7 miles) west of Celle, has been centre designed by Alvar Aalto,
1482–5, the masterful work of heathers and pine forests. Tel (01805) 92 91 01. Open Apr–Oct: interesting ones in picturesque a centre of petroleum since a city theatre designed by Hans
the German painter Hinrik Until the Middle Ages, this area 9am–6pm daily (last adm. 4pm). Kalandgasse and Zöllnerstraße. 1858. The Deutsches Erdöl- Scharoun and a planetarium.
Funhof. Also interesting is the was covered by dense mixed Y Vogelpark Walsrode Hoppner Haus, at Poststraße 8, is museum Wietze provides a very
soaring basilica of Michaelis­ forests, but these were felled Tel (05161) 604 40. Open Apr–Oct: richly decorated with reliefs of interesting overview on the P Volkswagenwerk Autostadt
kirche, consecrated in 1409. to satisfy demand for wood 9am–7pm daily, Nov–Mar 10am–4pm myth ological beasts. Equally history of oil extraction. Stadtbrücke. Tel (0800) 28 86 78 238.
Not far from here is the old in the saltworks of Lüneburg. daily. ∑ weltvogelpark.de interesting is the painted The neighbouring village of Open 9am–6pm daily. 8 every 30
port on the Ilmenau River. The half-stepped terrain decoration of the Rathaus (town Wienhausen has a Cistercian mins. ∑ autostadt.de
Environs
In grim contrast to both
parks stands Bergen­Belsen,
a concentration camp
constructed in the moorland
of Osterheide, about 30 km
(19 miles) south of Soltau.
A monument and small
museum commemorate
the place where 50,000
people were murdered,
among them Anne Frank.
E Gedenkstätte Bergen­Belsen
Lohheide. Tel (05051) 47 59 200.
Open Apr–Sep: 10am–6pm daily;
Eighteenth-century wooden crane in Lüneburg Oct–Mar: 10am–5pm daily. The façade of the Schloß with octagonal towers at the corners, in Celle
For hotels and restaurants in this area see pp501–502 and pp529–31


444-445_EW_Germany.indd 444 09/10/17 2:34 pm 444-445_EW_Germany.indd 445 09/10/17 2:34 pm
Eyewitness Travel LAYERS PRINTED:
Catalogue template “UK” LAYER
(Source v2.2)
Date 15th January 2013
Size 125mm x 217mm

L OWER SA X ON Y , HA MBURG AND BREMEN  445


Kloster (monastery) with a
beautiful 13th–14th century
church. Worth seeing are its
Gothic frescoes, the presbytery
vaults and the 14th- and
15th-century tapestries.
E Deutsches Erdölmuseum
Schwarzer Weg 7–9. Tel (05146) 92
340. Open Mar–Nov: 10am–5pm
Tue–Sun; Jun–Aug: 10am–6pm
Tue–Sun. &
R Kloster Wienhausen
Tel (05149) 18 660. 8 Apr–Oct: 10 &
Vogelpark Walsrode – a paradise with 1,000 different bird species 11am, 2–5pm Tue–Sat, noon–5pm
Sun. &
r Celle hall), a great example of Weser
Renaissance (see p457) from 1579.
Road map C3. * 74,000. £ From the Stadtkirche church t Wolfsburg
Schloßplatz. n Markt 14–6 (05141-12
12). _ Kunsthand werkermarkt tower great views unfold. The Road map D3. * 123,000. £
(Whitsun). ∑ celle-tourismus.de Baroque Synagoge, beyond the n Willy-Brandt-Platz 3 (05361-89
old town, is the only one 99 30). ∑ wolfsburg.de
Between 1378 and 1705, Celle surviving in northern Germany.
was the seat of distant relations During the 1930s, this small
of the Welf family, the reigning + Schloß village began to develop into a
dynasty in the Duchy of Tel (05141) 12 454. Open Apr–Oct: sizeable town, based around
Brunswick-Lüneburg. The Schloß 11am, noon, 1, 2 & 3pm Tue–Sun; the Volkswagen car works.
(castle), rebuilt in Renaissance Nov–Mar: 11am & 3pm Tue–Sun. & Production of the “people’s car”
style after 1533, has a façade with R Stadtkirche was conceived by Hitler – every
octagonal towers, gables and bay Tel (05141) 7735. Open 10am–6pm German was to be able to afford
windows. It is one of the main Tue–Sat. Tower: Apr–Oct: 10–11:45am this inexpensive car, designed
early-Renaissance buildings in 2–4:45pm Tue–Sat. by Ferdinand Porsche. The
Germany. The Gothic chapel was u Synagoge model reached its peak during
rebuilt in Mannerist style to a Im Kreise 24. Tel (05141) 12 12. the post-war economic boom
design by Martin de Vos, who Open noon–5pm Mon–Thu, Sun; years. The Volkswagenwerk
created 76 of its paintings, 10am–3pm Fri. factory is open to visitors.
including the famous Crucifixion Wolfsburg also has some
(late 1500s). Environs outstanding examples of
Celle prides itself on 500 half- The town of Wietze, 11 km modern architecture: a cultural
timbered houses, with the most (7 miles) west of Celle, has been centre designed by Alvar Aalto,
interesting ones in picturesque a centre of petroleum since a city theatre designed by Hans
Kalandgasse and Zöllnerstraße. 1858. The Deutsches Erdöl- Scharoun and a planetarium.
Hoppner Haus, at Poststraße 8, is museum Wietze provides a very
richly decorated with reliefs of interesting overview on the P Volkswagenwerk Autostadt
myth ological beasts. Equally history of oil extraction. Stadtbrücke. Tel (0800) 28 86 78 238.
interesting is the painted The neighbouring village of Open 9am–6pm daily. 8 every 30
decoration of the Rathaus (town Wienhausen has a Cistercian mins. ∑ autostadt.de
















The façade of the Schloß with octagonal towers at the corners, in Celle




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446  NOR THERN GERM AN Y L OWER SA X ON Y , HA MBURG AND BREMEN  447


Bavaria. A member of the East of the cathedral is the most valuable book in the
Welf family, he eventually lost Herzog Anton Ulrich-Museum, world, Heinrich der Löwe’s
in his struggle against the the oldest in Germany. It was Gospel book. Associated with
German emperor. opened to the public as a the town are the philosopher
Very different in character gallery by Duke Anton Ulrich Gottfried Wilhelm Leibniz and
but equally famous was Till and holds a variety of gems writer Gotthold Ephraim
Eulenspiegel, an ordinary man such as Rembrandt’s Family Lessing. The Lessinghaus
who poked fun at dim-witted Portrait, a Giorgioni self-portrait houses a literature museum.
citizens, the aristocracy and and Vermeer van Delft’s Girl The centre of the town is
the clergy. His exploits were with a Glass of Wine. dominated by the Schloß, the
fictionalized in the 16th century, largest castle in Lower Saxony,
and he was immortalized with a R Dom refurbished in the Baroque
fountain on Bäckerklint Square. Burgplatz. Tel (0531) 24 33 50. style in 1714–16. It houses the
The Renaissance Schloß in Stadthagen Brunswick’s continued decline Open 10am–5pm daily. Schloßmuseum with regional
culminated in the almost total The Marienbrunnen fountain on items such as furniture and
y Stadthagen attraction is the Schloß with destruction of the town in 1944. R St Martini Altstadtmarkt in Brunswick tapestries. The Venussaal (hall
its enchanting chapel. The During reconstruction, the con- Altstadtmarkt. Tel (0531) 161 21. of Venus) has beautiful Baroque
Road map C3. * 23,800. £ n Am Open Jan–Apr: 10am–1:30pm Tue–
Markt 1 (05721-92 50 65). Goldener Saal (golden hall), cept of the “Traditionsinsel” was Sat, May–Dec: 10am–1pm, 3–5pm Duke Julius of Brunswick ceiling frescoes. Opposite the
∑ stadthagen.de from 1605, has a Götterpforte developed: small islands of Tue–Fri, 10am–5pm Sat, 10am–noon, founded the Julius Academy, castle is the Zeughaus
(portal of the divinities) and a rebuilt historic monuments one of Germany’s most popular (armoury), built in 1613–19
The counts of Schaumburg- beautiful panelled ceiling. adrift in a sea of modernism. 3–5pm Sun. Protestant universities, where to a design by Paul Francke.
Lippe used the Renaissance A tour of the town is best E Herzog Anton Ulrich-Museum the Italian philosopher Giordano Continuing eastwards
Schloß (castle) as their private R Stadtkirche started from Burgplatz (castle Museumsstraße 1. Tel (0531) 122 50. Bruno taught. Juleum (1592–7), the visitor will get to the
residence. Apart from this and Lange Straße Tel (05722) 957 70. square). Here is the Burglöwe, Open 11am–6pm Tue–Sun. the main building, has a central Hauptkirche, the 16th-century
the town hall, the main attraction Open 15 Apr–14 Oct: 10:30am–noon the monument of a lion funded tower and two decorative church dedicated to Beatae
is the church of St Martini, with Tue–Fri, 2:30–4:30pm Tue–Sun, 15 by Heinrich in 1166 (the original gables. It is now home to the Mariae Virginis, the ducal pan-
an early Baroque mausoleum, Oct–14 Apr: 2:30–4:30pm Fri–Sun. is in a museum). Symbolizing Kreis- und Universitäts- theon and the leading example
and a masterful bronze + Schloß Heinrich’s rule, it was the first museum, a regional museum of Protestant Mannerist archi-
monument by Adrian de Vries, Tel (05722) 50 39. Open Apr–Sep: such sculpture to be erected and library. tecture. Begun in 1608, the
court artist to Rudolf II in Prague. 9:30am–6pm; Oct–Mar: 9:30am–5pm. since Roman days. The Dom church’s façade has delicate
(cathedral) is well worth seeing. R Kaiserdom reliefs, while the interior has an
R St Martini In the north nave, an extension, Königslutter. Tel (05353) 91 21 29. unusual combination of styles.
Schulstraße18. Tel (05721) 78 070. are unusual turned pillars, and Open 9am–6pm daily, in winter
Open 9am–noon, 2–4pm Mon–Thu, in the transept and presbytery to 5pm. + Schloß and Schloß museum
9am–noon Fri. are 13th-century frescoes. Its E Kreis- und Universitäts- Schloßplatz 13. Tel (05331) 924 60.
marvellous treasures include museum Open 10am–5pm Tue–Sun.
Environs a gigantic seven-armed Collegienplatz 1. Tel (05351) 121 11 Lessinghaus, Museum
A gem of Romanesque bronze candlestick, the tomb of 32. Open 10am–noon, 3–5pm Tue– and Zeughaus
architecture can be found at Heinrich and his wife Mathilde, Fri, 3–5pm Sat & Sun. Tel (05331) 80 82 14. Open
Idensen near Wunsdorf, 22 km the Crucifix of Imerward and a 11am–5pm Tue–Sun. Herzog-August-
(14 miles) from Stadt hagen. wooden cross with the figure Bibliothek: Open 10am–5pm Tue–Sun.
The church interior of Alte of Christ modelled on the The richly decorated portal of the o Wolfenbüttel R Hauptkirche
Kirche (1120) is entirely painted sculpture of Voltosanto in Lucca. Gewandhaus in Brunswick Road map D3. * 53,000. £ Michael-Praetorius-Platz 9. Tel (05331)
with scenes from the Old and Visitors can also see the column n Stadtmarkt 7 (05331-86 280). 72 055. Open 10am–noon, 2–4pm
New testaments, and there is of the Passion with the figure of Environs _ Ostereiermark (Easter); Tue–Sat.
a vast Byzantine-style image Christ, the work of Hans Witten. In Königslutter, 35 km (22 Altstadtfest (Aug).
of Christ’s Enthronement on To the west of the cathedral miles) east of Braunschweig,
a vaulted ceiling. The opulent Goldener Saal in lies the Altstadtmarkt (old town Emperor Lothar initiated the This small town has a
Schloß Bückeburg market). Here are the L-shaped building of the Benedictine turbulent past. From
Rathaus (town hall), with a Kaiserdom, a monastery 1432 until 1753 the Welf
u Bückeburg i Braunschweig cloister, and the Gothic church church and later his burial dukes moved their seat
(Brunswick) of St Martini. The beautiful place. The portal with figures here from Brunswick.
Road map C3. * 21,000. £
n Schloßplatz 5 (05722-89 31 81). Gewandhaus (cloth hall) of lions, a frieze with figures of In the 16th century,
Road map D3. * 240,000. £ is also worth seeing. fishermen, and the cloisters innovative town design
n Vor der Burg 1 (0531-470 20 40).
In the 16th century this town _ Festival of Chamber Music (May); reflect the taste of the times introduced wide avenues
became the capital of the Medieval Fair (May/Jun). and the northern Italian origin and spacious squares.
principality of Schaumburg- of architects and sculptors; Largely unscathed by
Lippe. The philosopher Johann An important commercial and only the frescoes are late World War II, the town
Gottfried von Herder was the political centre from the early 19th-century additions. has 500 historic half-
preacher here. The Stadtkirche Middle Ages, Brunswick Helmstedt, 45 km (28 miles) timbered houses, and
(town church), one of the first (Braunschweig) was chosen to the east, is unjustifiably only a magnificent library.
Protestant churches in Germany, as town of residence by associated with the former The Herzog-August-
is a pinnacle of Mannerism with Heinrich der Löwe (Henry the The Burglöwe, Heinrich der Löwe’s monument border crossing between East Bibliothek holds 130,000
its fantasy façade. Another Lion), ruler of Saxony and in Brunswick and West Germany. In 1576, volumes, including the Baroque façade of Schloß Wolfenbüttel
For hotels and restaurants in this area see pp501–502 and pp529–31


446-447_EW_Germany.indd 446 09/10/17 2:34 pm 446-447_EW_Germany.indd 447 09/10/17 2:34 pm
Eyewitness Travel LAYERS PRINTED:
Catalogue template “UK” LAYER
(Source v2.2)
Date 15th January 2013
Size 125mm x 217mm

L OWER SA X ON Y , HA MBURG AND BREMEN  447


East of the cathedral is the most valuable book in the
Herzog Anton Ulrich-Museum, world, Heinrich der Löwe’s
the oldest in Germany. It was Gospel book. Associated with
opened to the public as a the town are the philosopher
gallery by Duke Anton Ulrich Gottfried Wilhelm Leibniz and
and holds a variety of gems writer Gotthold Ephraim
such as Rembrandt’s Family Lessing. The Lessinghaus
Portrait, a Giorgioni self-portrait houses a literature museum.
and Vermeer van Delft’s Girl The centre of the town is
with a Glass of Wine. dominated by the Schloß, the
largest castle in Lower Saxony,
R Dom refurbished in the Baroque
Burgplatz. Tel (0531) 24 33 50. style in 1714–16. It houses the
Open 10am–5pm daily. Schloßmuseum with regional
The Marienbrunnen fountain on items such as furniture and
R St Martini
Altstadtmarkt. Tel (0531) 161 21. Altstadtmarkt in Brunswick tapestries. The Venussaal (hall
of Venus) has beautiful Baroque
Open Jan–Apr: 10am–1:30pm Tue–
Sat, May–Dec: 10am–1pm, 3–5pm Duke Julius of Brunswick ceiling frescoes. Opposite the
founded the Julius Academy,
castle is the Zeughaus
Tue–Fri, 10am–5pm Sat, 10am–noon,
3–5pm Sun. one of Germany’s most popular (armoury), built in 1613–19
Protestant universities, where to a design by Paul Francke.
E Herzog Anton Ulrich-Museum the Italian philosopher Giordano Continuing eastwards
Museumsstraße 1. Tel (0531) 122 50. Bruno taught. Juleum (1592–7), the visitor will get to the
Open 11am–6pm Tue–Sun. the main building, has a central Hauptkirche, the 16th-century
tower and two decorative church dedicated to Beatae
gables. It is now home to the Mariae Virginis, the ducal pan-
Kreis- und Universitäts- theon and the leading example
museum, a regional museum of Protestant Mannerist archi-
and library. tecture. Begun in 1608, the
church’s façade has delicate
R Kaiserdom reliefs, while the interior has an
Königslutter. Tel (05353) 91 21 29. unusual combination of styles.
Open 9am–6pm daily, in winter
to 5pm. + Schloß and Schloß museum
E Kreis- und Universitäts- Schloßplatz 13. Tel (05331) 924 60.
museum Open 10am–5pm Tue–Sun.
Collegienplatz 1. Tel (05351) 121 11 Lessinghaus, Museum
32. Open 10am–noon, 3–5pm Tue– and Zeughaus
Fri, 3–5pm Sat & Sun. Tel (05331) 80 82 14. Open
11am–5pm Tue–Sun. Herzog-August-
Bibliothek: Open 10am–5pm Tue–Sun.
The richly decorated portal of the o Wolfenbüttel R Hauptkirche
Gewandhaus in Brunswick Michael-Praetorius-Platz 9. Tel (05331)
Road map D3. * 53,000. £
n Stadtmarkt 7 (05331-86 280). 72 055. Open 10am–noon, 2–4pm
Environs _ Ostereiermark (Easter); Tue–Sat.
In Königslutter, 35 km (22 Altstadtfest (Aug).
miles) east of Braunschweig,
Emperor Lothar initiated the This small town has a
building of the Benedictine turbulent past. From
Kaiserdom, a monastery 1432 until 1753 the Welf
church and later his burial dukes moved their seat
place. The portal with figures here from Brunswick.
of lions, a frieze with figures of In the 16th century,
fishermen, and the cloisters innovative town design
reflect the taste of the times introduced wide avenues
and the northern Italian origin and spacious squares.
of architects and sculptors; Largely unscathed by
only the frescoes are late World War II, the town
19th-century additions. has 500 historic half-
Helmstedt, 45 km (28 miles) timbered houses, and
to the east, is unjustifiably only a magnificent library.
associated with the former The Herzog-August-
border crossing between East Bibliothek holds 130,000
and West Germany. In 1576, volumes, including the Baroque façade of Schloß Wolfenbüttel


446-447_EW_Germany.indd 447 09/10/17 2:34 pm

448  NOR THERN GERM AN Y L OWER SA X ON Y , HA MBURG AND BREMEN  449

p Hanover (Hannover) Sprengel, a chocolate magnate, Marktkirche St Georg und St VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
the museum was built in 1979, Jacobus (church of St George
The capital of Lower Saxony, Hanover does not at first glance and holds works by Munch, and St Jacob) features a Practical Information
seem particularly exciting, but appearances can be deceptive: Chagall and Picasso, as well 14th-century nave with a Road map: C3. * 522,000. n
Ernst-August-Platz 8 & Tramm platz
the town boasts interesting architecture in the historic centre, as many more recent artists, charac teristic four-pinnacled 11 (0511-123 45-111). ( Sat. _
magnificent Baroque gardens and one of Europe’s most including Christo. tower. The most valuable Schützenfest (Jun/Jul), Maschsee-
object among its furnishings
The museum is located by the
important museums of modern art. Hanover’s past was Maschsee, a large artificial lake is the Gothic altar, with scenes fest (Jul/Aug). ∑ hannover.de
marked by its dyn astic links with England, sharing the same created in the centre of the city of the Passion and copper Transport
ruler during the years 1714–1837. Annual industrial trade in 1936. During the summer it engravings by the renowned £ Ernst-August-Platz.
fairs have earned the town an international reputation, and teems with motor and sailing artist Martin Schongauer.
in 2000 Hanover hosted the international exhibition Expo boats, while Hanover ians stroll Y Herrenhäuser Gärten Garten, the most important of
around its banks.
2000 which attracted 18 million visitors.
Despite having been razed to the four gardens, has a formal
the ground during World War II, layout modelled on 17th- and
Exploring Hanover is the picture gallery, which Interior of the church of St Georg und the gardens in Hanover’s 18th-century Dutch parks. It is a
After the near-total destruction holds excellent German St Jacobus, in Marktplatz Herrenhausen district are among botanical garden with fountains,
of the old town in 1944, many medieval and Renaissance the most beautiful Baroque including the Große Fontäne, the
historic monuments have been paintings (Dürer, Spran ger, in World War II, and now gardens in Germany. They were tallest in Europe with an 82-m
rebuilt, and large green spaces Cranach), a good section with serves as headquarters for established by Duchess Sophie (269-ft) water spout. There are
encourage the visitor to explore Dutch and Flemish pain tings the Niedersächsischer Landtag von der Pfalz, daughter of grottoes, mazes, sculptures and
the town on foot. It is best to (Rubens, Rembrandt, van Dyck) (Lower Saxony state parliament). Elizabeth Stuart and mother of decorative urns, and the hedges
follow an extensive circuit, as well as German paintings of The porticos on the façade England’s George I. The Großer are some 21 km (13 miles) long.
starting from and returning to the 19th and 20th centuries, were modelled on ancient
the railway station. The Baroque with fine examples of Greek temples.
gardens at Herrenhausen in the Romanticism and Impressionism
northwest of the town are (Friedrich, Corinth, Liebermann). P Marktplatz
reached by metro (U-Bahn 4, 5). Although the houses on this
E Sprengel Museum square had to be almost
F Opernhaus Kurt-Schwitters-Platz 1. Tel (0511) 16 Mueller’s The Lovers (1920), in the completely rebuilt after World
Opernplatz 1. Tel (0511) 99 99 11 11. 84 38 75. Open 10am–8pm Tue, Sprengel-Museum War II, this is one of the best
The opera house was built in 10am–6pm Wed–Sun. & examples of 15th-century red-
1845–57 by George Ludwig One of Europe’s finest museums P Neues Rathaus brick architecture, with ama zing
Friedrich Laves, Hanover’s of modern art, the Sprengel- Trammplatz 2. Tel (0511) 168 45 333. gables with projections as well
most important architect, to Museum reflects the city’s role Dome Open 9:30am–6pm Mon–Fri; as figurative friezes of glazed
a fine Neo-Classical design. as an artists’ mecca in the 1920s, 10am–6pm Sat & Sun. terracotta. Nearby, the The stunningly beautiful Baroque gardens in Herrenhausen
Particularly charming is the before the National Socialists The gigantic town hall
façade with portico columns. destroyed works of art that they symbolizes the lofty ambitions
designated as “degenerate”. of the wealthier citizens at the
GOETHESTR.
E Niedersächsisches Hanover’s controversial artist beginning of the 20th century. GOETHESTR. GEORGSTRASSE 200 m (220 yards)200 m (220 yards)
GEORGSTRASSE
BAHNHOFSTR.
AM MARSTALL
Landesmuseum Kurt Schwitters worked here, It was built from 1901–13, on LIMBURGSTR. HEILIGERSTR. GROSSE PACKHOF STR. GROSSE PACKHOF STR. BAHNHOFSTR. HauptbahnhofHauptbahnhof
HEILIGERSTR.
Willy-Brandt-Allee 5. Tel (0511) 980 as did El Lissitzky, whose more than 6,000 beech pillars, FlughafenFlughafen AM MARSTALL OPERN-OPERN- Künstlerhauslerhaus
Künst
5 km (3 miles)5 km (3 miles)
PLATZPLATZ
LIMBURGSTR.
76 86. Open 10am–5pm Tue–Sun, Kabinett der Abstrakten modelled on a Baroque palace Herrenhaüser GärtenHerrenhaüser Gärten SCHMIEDESTRASSE OpernhausOpernhaus
10am–7pm Thu. & (school of abstraction, 1928, with a central dome, and KNOCHENHAUERSTR. MarktkircheMarktkirche KRÖPCKEKRÖPCKE
SEILWIN-
DERSTR.
The most interesting part of reconstructed) is worth decorated with Neo-Gothic and AM HOHEN UFER SEILWIN- DERSTR. Kröpcke BörseBörse
KreuzkircheKreuzkirche
SCHMIEDESTRASSE
the state museum seeing. Funded Secessionist detail. The Swiss LEIBNIZUFER BallhofBallhof Kröpcke WINDMÜHLENSTR. RATHENAUSTR.
Lein
Leine e
KNOCHENHAUERSTR.
WINDMÜHLENSTR. RATHENAUSTR.
BARINGSTR.
of Lower Saxony by Bernhard artist Ferdinand Hodler created AltesAltes O S T E R S T R BARINGSTR. GEORGSGEORGS
AM HOHEN UFER
KRAMERSTR.
PLATZPLATZ
LEIBNIZUFER HistorischesHistorisches
RathausRathaus
a vast painting enitled Einigkeit MuseumMuseum KRAMERSTR. Markthalle/ 0 metres 300
KARMARSCHSTR.
(unity) for the Debating Hall, LeibnizhausLeibnizhaus MARKT-MARKT- LandtagLandtag
SCHLOSSSTR.
PLATZPLATZ
which depicts the arrival of SCHLOSSSTR. LEINSTRASSE KARMARSCHSTR. MarkthalleMarkthalle MAR K T S T Aegidientor-Aegidientor- 0 yards 300
Markthalle/ A S S E
O S T E R S T R A S S E
platzplatz
LEINSTRASSE
Protestantism in the town in LeineschlossLeineschloss Wangenheim-Wangenheim- BREITE STR.
BREITE STR.
MAR K T S TR. R.
AEGIDIENTORPLATZ
1533. A unique oblique lift takes palaispalais AEGIDIENTORPLATZ
LaveshausLaveshaus
you up to the dome from where F R I E D R I C H S W A L FRIEDRICHSTRASSE
FRIEDRICHSTRASSE
F R I E D R I C H S W A L L L
there are wonderful views. Kestner-Kestner-
MuseumMuseum
BLEICHENSTRASSE
+ Leineschloß Hanover City Centre NeuesNeues BLEICHENSTRASSE
Hinrich-Wilhelm-Kopf-Platz. 1 Opernhaus RathausRathaus WILLY-BRANDT-ALLEE
In the historic city centre 2 Niedersächsisches MaschparkMaschpark
by the Leine River stands the C U L EM A N N S T R MaschteichMaschteich
WILLY-BRANDT-ALLEE
Leineschloß, a 17th-century Landesmuseum NiedersächsischesNiedersächsisches
palace completely rebuilt by the 3 Sprengel Museum LandesmuseumLandesmuseum
C U L EM A N N S T R
local architect Laves between 4 Neues Rathaus A S S Sprengel-Sprengel-
A S S E E
1817 and 1842. It had to be 5 Leineschloß MuseumMuseum
Façade of the vast Neues Rathaus, with its central dome rebuilt again after destruction 6 Marktplatz
For keys to symbols see back flap
For hotels and restaurants in this area see pp501–502 and pp529–31
448-449_EW_Germany.indd 448 09/10/17 12:50 pm 448-449_EW_Germany.indd 449 09/10/17 12:50 pm