(DK Eyewitness) Travel Guide - Germany

W Ü RZBURG  249


In AD 707 a church was built VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
here and, in 1201, work began
on a fortress that served as the Practical Information
residence of the prince-bishops Road map C5. * 128,000.
until 1719. Within its fortifications n Falkenhaus, Marktplatz 9
stands the first original donjon (0931-372398). _ Afrikafestival
church dating from the 13th (May), Würzburger Weindorf
century, and the Renaissance- (May/Jun), Mozartfest (Jun),
Baroque palace. The museum Kilianifest (Jul), Bachtage (Nov–Dec).
exhibits illustrate the 1,200-year Transport
history of the town. The former k Frankfurt, 120 km (75 miles)
arsenal now houses the west. £ Hauptbahnhof.
An old crane near Alte Mainbrücke over the Franconian Museum with its
river Main valuable collection of sculptures
by Tilman Riemenschneider. city, this twin-towered Baroque
beautiful bridge was built in chapel is the work of Balthasar
1473–1543. It is the oldest bridge R Käppele Neumann (1747–50). Its interior
over the Main. Mergentheimer Straße. is lavishly decorated with
Standing at the top of a hill at beautiful wall paintings by
+ Festung Marienberg the southwestern end of the Matthias Günther.
Fürstenbau-Museum: Tel (0931) 355
170. Open Apr–Oct: 9am–6pm Tue–
Sun. Closed: Nov–Mar. & ∑
schloesser.bayern.de
Mainfränkisches Museum: Tel (0931)
205 940. Open Apr–Oct: 10am–5pm
Tue–Sun; Nov–Mar: 10am–4pm Tue–
Sun. & Castle tours: 8 16 Mar–Oct:
11am, 2pm, 3pm, 4pm Tue–Fri; 10am,
11am, 1pm, 2pm, 3pm (in English), 4pm
Sat & Sun.
Built on the site of an old Celtic
stronghold, the Marienberg
Fortress towers above the town. Festung Marienberg, built on a hill overlooking the river Main

Würzburg
City Centre Hauptbahnhof
Flughafen
1 Residenz 7 km (4.5 miles) R Ö N T G E N R I N G HAUGERRING
2 Dom St Kilian Congress KAISERSTRASSE BAHNHOFSTR.
Centrum
3 Neumünster Friedens- Juliusspital Stift Haug BERLINER
4 Bürgerspital brücke HEIN ESTRASSE PLATZ
5 Juliusspital GERBERSTR JULIUSPROMENADE SEMMELSTR. LUDWIGSTRASSE RENN W
6 Rathaus STRASSE THEATERSTR.
7 Alte Mainbrücke DREIKRONENSTRASSE SCHONBORN- Bürgerspital
8 Festung Marienberg EICHHORNSTR. Mainfranken KAPUZINERSTR. EGER RING - L U THER-STRA S S E
Marienkapelle
Theater Würzburg
Rathaus MARKT KÜRSCHNE Neumünster HUSARENSTR.
Alte DOMSTRASSE R H O F Dom St Kilian R E N N W E G MARTIN
Residenz
Mainbrücke BALTHASAR-NEUMANN-PROM.
Domschatz N G
Festung SCHÖNTHALSTR
Marienberg S AALG AS SE
NEUBAUSTR Alte Hofgarten E B E RT- R I
Universität
St Burkard O B E R E R M A I N K A I OTTOSTRASSE
SANDERRING
LEISTENSTRASSE Main SANDERSTRASSE F R I E D R I C H -
Ludwigs-
brücke
0 metres 300 Käppele
0 yards 300
MERGENTHEIMER STR.
For additional map symbols see back flap

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250  SOUTHERN GERM AN Y W Ü RZBURG  251

Residenz in Würzburg . Kaisersaal VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
The centrepiece of the
This vast complex was commissioned by two prince-bishops, the palace, the sumptuous Practical Information
brothers Johann Philipp Franz and Friedrich Karl von Schönborn. Its emperor’s chamber, Residenzplatz 2.
testifies to the close
construction between 1720 and 1744 was supervised by several relationship between Tel (0931) 35 51 70. Open Apr–
Oct: 9am–6pm daily; Nov–Mar:
architects, including Johann Lukas von Hildebrandt Würzburg and the 10am–4:30pm daily.
and Maximilian von Welsch. However, the Residenz Holy Roman Empire. Closed 1 Jan, 24, 25, 31 Dec. &
(which is on UNESCO’s World Heritage list) is mainly There are Tiepolo
frescoes here too.
associated with the architect Balthasar Neumann,
who was responsible for the overall design.





Garden Hall
This vast, low hall has Rococo
stucco works by Antonio Bossi,
dating from 1749. There is also
a painting on the vaulting by
Johan Zick dating from 1750,
depicting The Feast of the Gods
and Diana Resting.



. Treppenhaus
The work of the Venetian artist Giovanni
Battista Tiepolo, the largest fresco in the
world adorns the vault of the staircase.
Main entranceMain entrance




Venetian Room
This room is named after three tapestries
depicting the Venetian carnival. Further
ornaments include decorative panels
with paintings by Johann Thalhofer, a
pupil of Rudolph Byss.






Frankonia-Brunnen
This fountain, designed by Ferdinand
von Miller, was constructed in the
parade square in front of the Residenz.
It was funded by donations from the
inhabitants of Würzburg.
. Hofkirche
The church interior is richly decorated
The Coat of Arms of the Patron with paintings, sculptures and stucco
KEY The richly carved coat of arms are by Johann ornaments. The side altars were
Wolfgang von der Auwery and are the Martin-von-Wagner- designed by Johann Lukas von
1 Napoleon’s bedroom personal arms of Friedrich Karl von Schönborn, Museum entrance Hildebrandt and feature paintings by
Prince-Bishop of Bamberg and Würzburg. Giovanni Battista Tiepolo.
For hotels and restaurants in this area see pp496–7 and pp519–22


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Date 6th February2013
Size 125mm x 217mm

W Ü RZBURG  251


. Kaisersaal VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
The centrepiece of the
palace, the sumptuous Practical Information
emperor’s chamber, Residenzplatz 2.
testifies to the close Tel (0931) 35 51 70. Open Apr–
relationship between Oct: 9am–6pm daily; Nov–Mar:
Würzburg and the 10am–4:30pm daily.
Holy Roman Empire. Closed 1 Jan, 24, 25, 31 Dec. &
There are Tiepolo
frescoes here too.








Garden Hall
This vast, low hall has Rococo
stucco works by Antonio Bossi,
dating from 1749. There is also
a painting on the vaulting by
Johan Zick dating from 1750,
depicting The Feast of the Gods
and Diana Resting.






Main entrance





Venetian Room
This room is named after three tapestries
depicting the Venetian carnival. Further
ornaments include decorative panels
with paintings by Johann Thalhofer, a
pupil of Rudolph Byss.













. Hofkirche
The church interior is richly decorated
with paintings, sculptures and stucco
ornaments. The side altars were
designed by Johann Lukas von
Hildebrandt and feature paintings by
Giovanni Battista Tiepolo.




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252  SOUTHERN GERM AN Y BA MBERG  253

7 Bamberg Its walls are adorned with VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
magnificent frescoes painted by
Situated on seven hills like ancient Rome, Bamberg features the Tyrolean artist Melchior Steidl. Practical Information
a splendidly preserved old town, encircled by the branches The walls and pillars feature the Road map D5. * 71,000.
of the river Regnitz. The town is famous not only for its Habsburg family tree, while n Geyerswörthstraße 5 (0951-
297 62 00). _ Calderon-
exceptional artistic heritage but also for its excellent beer, 16 statues represent Emperors Festspiele (Jun), Sandkirchweih
of the Holy Roman Empire. The
produced by one of the nine breweries that operate here. Neue Residenz houses a collec- (Aug). ∑ bamberg.info
Its long history goes back to AD 902, when the Babenberg tion of old German masters, Transport
family established their residence here. The town grew and including The Flood by Hans k Nuremberg, 60 km (37 miles)
prospered in the wake of the Thirty Years’ War. In 1993, Baldung Grien and three canvases Picturesque fishermen’s cottages in Klein-Venedig to the south.
Bamberg became a UNESCO World Heritage Site. by Lucas Cranach the Elder.
P Altes Rathaus of the old town. It features the
R Karmelitenkloster The Baroque lower bridge, Untere magnificent Baroque St Martin’s Balthasar Neumann. The
Karmelitenplatz 1. Open 9–11.30am, Brücke, provides a magnificent Church, built in 1686–91 by the abbey’s brewery now houses
2:30–5:30pm daily. view over the upper bridge, Dientzenhofer brothers. Also a museum.
The hospital-abbey complex Obere Brücke, with its fabulous notable is the late-Baroque
of St Theodore was founded in town hall. This originally Gothic St Catherine Hospital and P Schloß Seehof
the late 12th century by Bishop seat of the municipal authorities Seminary, built by Balthasar Memmelsdorf. Tel (0951) 409 571.
Eberhard. Since 1589 the church was remodelled in 1744–56 Neumann, which now serves Open Apr–Oct: 9am–6pm Tue–Sun.
and abbey have belonged to by Jakob Michael Küchel. The as the town hall. 8 & ∑ schloesser-bayern.de
the Carmelite order. The south half-timbered structure of the Built and designed by Antonio
tower and Romanesque portal Rottmeisterhaus, which seems R Kloster Michelsberg Petrini in 1686, this was originally
are the remains of the massive to be gliding over the waves Michelsberg. Fränkisches the summer residence of the
12th-century basilica. The of the river Regnitz, was added Brauereimuseum: Open: Apr–Oct: prince-bishops of Bamberg. The
interior of the church was in 1688. Wed–Fri 1–5pm; Sat, Sun & hols: nine magnificent state rooms
redesigned in the late 17th 11am–5pm. & have been beautifully restored.
and early 18th centuries so P Klein-Venedig ∑ brauereimuseum.de
the altar is now situated at its “Little Venice” is a district of The Benedictine abbey that
Beautiful rose garden at the rear of the Neue Residenz western end, while the entrance fishermen’s cottages, their stood on this site was founded
is on the site of the previous picturesque façades adorned in 1015. The surviving church
Exploring Bamberg pleasant courtyard. Inside is a presbytery. The layout of the with pots of geraniums. Visitors was built after 1121 and later
A good place to start sight- museum that focuses on the cloisters on the south side of come here for a glass of remodelled in the 16th and
seeing is the Domplatz, one history of the region. the church is typical of Rauchbier – a local beer with 17th centuries. On the ceiling
of Germany’s loveliest squares, Cistercian designs. a smoky flavour – while they of the church are paintings
with its magnificent cathedral E Neue Residenz enjoy the view. depicting almost 600 species
church and the old bishop’s und Staatsgalerie + Wasserschloss Concordia of medicinal plants. The
palace. After visiting the Domplatz 8. Tel (0951) 519 390. Concordiastraße. Closed to the public. P Grüner Markt abbey’s Baroque buildings
Neue Residenz you can go Open Apr–Sep: 9am–6pm daily; This magnificent Baroque With its historic houses and date from the 17th and 18th
down to the river, where you Oct–Mar: 10–4pm daily. & palace, which enjoys a scenic adjacent Maximilianplatz, centuries and are the work
will find the water palace, ∑ schloesser-bayern.de position on the water’s edge, Grüner Markt lies at the heart of Johann Dientzenhofer and Façade of Schloß Seehof in Memmelsdorf
Concordia. The old town is The Neue Residenz, with its was built for Counsellor
reached by crossing one of richly decorated apartments and Böttinger between 1716 and
two bridges – Untere or the Emperor’s Room, was built in 1722, to a design by Johann Bamberg City Centre Hauptbahnhof
Obere Brücke. 1695–1704 and is the work of Dientzenhofer. The building 1 Dom 1 km (0.6 miles)
Neues
Johann Leonhard Dientzenhofer. now houses an art institute. Flughafen FISCHEREI Rathaus
R Dom 2 Alte Hofhaltung MAIENBRUNNEN 8 km (5 miles) SANDSTRASSE MARKUSSTR. Naturkunde-
museum
UNTERE
Fränkisches
See pp254–5. 3 Neue Residenz und Brauereimuseum KAPUZINERSTR. HAUPTWACHSTRASSE
Staatsgalerie Kloster St Martin KESSLERSTRASSE
P Alte Hofhaltung 4 Karmeliterkloster Michelsberg Alte OBERE SANDS T R. Klein-
Venedig
Historisches Museum 5 Wasserschloß Concordia MICHELSBERG Hofhaltung AM K R A NEN OBSTMARKT LANGE STR.
Domplatz 7. Tel (0951) 871 142. 6 Altes Rathaus AUFSESSSTR. Altes
Open May–Oct: 9am–5pm Tue– 7 Klein-Venedig JAKOBSBERG OBERE KAROLINENSTRASSE Neue Residenz Rathaus
& Staatsgalerie
Sun. & ∑ museum.bamberg.de 8 Kloster Michelsberg E.T.A-Hoffmann-
Theater
On the west side of Domplatz M ATERNSTR. Diözesan- E.T.A-Hoffmann-
museum
stands a magnificent portal, Dom Haus
with statues of the imperial UNTERER KAULBERG Böttinger- R.-WAGNER-STR.
couple Heinrich II and Obere haus
Kunigunde. This is the gate to Pfarrkirche
the former bishop’s residence, CONCORDIASTR. Regnitz
built at the turn of the 15th and PANZERLEITE Karmeliter- KAULBERG MITTLERER UNTERE SEELGASSE
16th centuries in place of an 0 metres 300 kloster Wasserschloss
Concordia
old fortress of Heinrich II. Within
OBERER STEPHANSBERG
the building’s wings is a The Baroque palace Concordia on the bank of the river Regnitz 0 yards 300
For hotels and restaurants in this area see pp496–7 and pp519–22 For map symbols see back flap
252-253_EW_Germany.indd 252 09/10/17 12:59 pm 252-253_EW_Germany.indd 253 09/10/17 12:59 pm
Eyewitness Travel LAYERS PRINTED:
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(Source v2.2)
Date 15th January 2013
Size 125mm x 217mm

BA MBERG  253


VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
Practical Information
Road map D5. * 71,000.
n Geyerswörthstraße 5 (0951-
297 62 00). _ Calderon-
Festspiele (Jun), Sandkirchweih
(Aug). ∑ bamberg.info
Transport
k Nuremberg, 60 km (37 miles)
Picturesque fishermen’s cottages in Klein-Venedig to the south.
P Altes Rathaus of the old town. It features the
The Baroque lower bridge, Untere magnificent Baroque St Martin’s Balthasar Neumann. The
Brücke, provides a magnificent Church, built in 1686–91 by the abbey’s brewery now houses
view over the upper bridge, Dientzenhofer brothers. Also a museum.
Obere Brücke, with its fabulous notable is the late-Baroque
town hall. This originally Gothic St Catherine Hospital and P Schloß Seehof
seat of the municipal authorities Seminary, built by Balthasar Memmelsdorf. Tel (0951) 409 571.
was remodelled in 1744–56 Neumann, which now serves Open Apr–Oct: 9am–6pm Tue–Sun.
by Jakob Michael Küchel. The as the town hall. 8 & ∑ schloesser-bayern.de
half-timbered structure of the Built and designed by Antonio
Rottmeisterhaus, which seems R Kloster Michelsberg Petrini in 1686, this was originally
to be gliding over the waves Michelsberg. Fränkisches the summer residence of the
of the river Regnitz, was added Brauereimuseum: Open: Apr–Oct: prince-bishops of Bamberg. The
in 1688. Wed–Fri 1–5pm; Sat, Sun & hols: nine magnificent state rooms
11am–5pm. & have been beautifully restored.
P Klein-Venedig ∑ brauereimuseum.de
“Little Venice” is a district of The Benedictine abbey that
fishermen’s cottages, their stood on this site was founded
picturesque façades adorned in 1015. The surviving church
with pots of geraniums. Visitors was built after 1121 and later
come here for a glass of remodelled in the 16th and
Rauchbier – a local beer with 17th centuries. On the ceiling
a smoky flavour – while they of the church are paintings
enjoy the view. depicting almost 600 species
of medicinal plants. The
P Grüner Markt abbey’s Baroque buildings
With its historic houses and date from the 17th and 18th
adjacent Maximilianplatz, centuries and are the work
Grüner Markt lies at the heart of Johann Dientzenhofer and Façade of Schloß Seehof in Memmelsdorf

Bamberg City Centre Hauptbahnhof
1 km (0.6 miles)
1 Dom FISCHEREI Neues
Flughafen
2 Alte Hofhaltung MAIENBRUNNEN 8 km (5 miles) SANDSTRASSE MARKUSSTR. Naturkunde- Rathaus
UNTERE
3 Neue Residenz und Fränkisches KAPUZINERSTR. museum HAUPTWACHSTRASSE
Brauereimuseum
Staatsgalerie Kloster St Martin
4 Karmeliterkloster Michelsberg Klein- KESSLERSTRASSE
Alte
Venedig
5 Wasserschloß Concordia MICHELSBERG Hofhaltung OBERE SANDS T R. AM K R A NEN OBSTMARKT LANGE STR.
6 Altes Rathaus AUFSESSSTR. Altes
7 Klein-Venedig JAKOBSBERG OBERE KAROLINENSTRASSE Neue Residenz Rathaus
& Staatsgalerie
8 Kloster Michelsberg E.T.A-Hoffmann-
Theater
Diözesan-
museum E.T.A-Hoffmann-
UNTERER KAULBERG Böttinger- R.-WAGNER-STR.
M ATERNSTR.
Dom Haus
haus
Obere
Pfarrkirche CONCORDIASTR. Regnitz
PANZERLEITE Karmeliter- KAULBERG MITTLERER UNTERE SEELGASSE
kloster
Concordia
0 metres 300 Wasserschloss
OBERER STEPHANSBERG
0 yards 300
For map symbols see back flap
252-253_EW_Germany.indd 253 09/10/17 12:59 pm

254  SOUTHERN GERM AN Y BA MBERG  255

Bamberg Cathedral VISITORS’ CHECKLIST

Bamberg’s skyline is dominated by the cathedral of Practical Information
St Peter and St George, which combines the late Domplatz 5. Tel (0951) 502 330.
Romanesque and early French-Gothic styles. It was Open Apr–Oct: 9am– 6pm daily;
Nov–Mar: 9am– 5pm daily.
founded in 1004 and consecrated in 1012, and again in Diözesanmuseum: Tel (0951) 50
1237 after being demolished by fire and then rebuilt. 22 502. Open 10am–5pm Tue–
This is a triple-nave basilica with two choirs, whose Emperor’s Cloak Sun. Closed Good Friday, 25, 31
The Diocesan Museum
apses are flanked by two pairs of towers. The cloisters houses an exhibition Dec. & ∑ diozesanmuseum-
bamberg.de
were built between 1399 and 1457, while the of sacral art. It also
monumental sculptures adorning the portals date features a collection
from the 13th century. The western choir holds the of imperial vestments,
including Heinrich II’s
only papal grave in Germany, that of Pope Clement II, blue cloak of stars.
who had been the local bishop.
. Bamberger Reiter
By the northwestern
pillar of the eastern Interior Marienpforte
choir stands the The illuminated This magnificent
famous equestrian main nave stonework
statue of the “Bamberg features a graceful, adorns the main
Rider”, dating from early Gothic cross- entrance. The
about 1230. Many ribbed vault. tympanum features
scholars have puzzled reliefs depicting
over the identity of the scenes from the
rider, but the riddle Last Judgement.
remains unsolved.











Hochaltar des
Peterschores
The main altar of the
west choir is adorned
with sculptures
depicting the
Crucifixion (1648–49)
by Justus Glesker.


. Tomb of Heinrich II
and Kunigunde
This beautiful sarcophagus of the
imperial couple is the work of
Tilman Riemenschneider,
completed in 1513.
KEY
. Marian Altar by Veit Stoß
1 Marien pforte Veit Stoß was commissioned to create this altar
2 St George’s Choir by his son, Andrew Stoß, who was a Carmelite
prior in Nuremberg at the time. After the
3 St Peter’s Choir victory of the Reformation in Nuremberg,
however, he moved to Bamberg in 1543.
For hotels and restaurants in this area see pp496–7 and pp519–22


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(Source v2.5)
Date 6th February2013
Size 125mm x 217mm

BA MBERG  255


VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
Practical Information
Domplatz 5. Tel (0951) 502 330.
Open Apr–Oct: 9am– 6pm daily;
Nov–Mar: 9am– 5pm daily.
Diözesanmuseum: Tel (0951) 50
22 502. Open 10am–5pm Tue–
Emperor’s Cloak Sun. Closed Good Friday, 25, 31
The Diocesan Museum Dec. & ∑ diozesanmuseum-
houses an exhibition bamberg.de
of sacral art. It also
features a collection
of imperial vestments,
including Heinrich II’s
blue cloak of stars.




Marienpforte
This magnificent
stonework
adorns the main
entrance. The
tympanum features
reliefs depicting
scenes from the
Last Judgement.












Hochaltar des
Peterschores
The main altar of the
west choir is adorned
with sculptures
depicting the
Crucifixion (1648–49)
by Justus Glesker.










. Marian Altar by Veit Stoß
Veit Stoß was commissioned to create this altar
by his son, Andrew Stoß, who was a Carmelite
prior in Nuremberg at the time. After the
victory of the Reformation in Nuremberg,
however, he moved to Bamberg in 1543.




254-255_EW_Germany.indd 255 09/10/17 12:59 pm

256  SOUTHERN GERM AN Y BA V ARIA  257

8 Bayreuth P Richard Wagner Museum VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
Villa Wahnfried: Richard-Wagner-
Lovers of German music associate this town with the Straße 48. Tel (0921) 75 72 80. Open Road map D5. * 75,000.
composer Richard Wagner (1813–83), who took up residence Jul & Aug: 10am–6pm daily; Sep–Jun: n Luitpoldplatz 9 (0921-885 88).
_ Musica Bayreuth (May),
10am–tpm Tue–Sun. &
here in 1872. Established in 1231, Bayreuth originally ∑ wagnermuseum.de Fränkische Festwoche (May),
belonged to the family of Count von Andechs-Meran; in 1248 Built for Wagner by Carl Wölfel, Richard-Wagner-Festspiele (Jul–
it passed to the margraves of Nuremberg (von Zollern) and, the villa was destroyed during Aug), Bayreuther Barock (Sep).
since 1806, Franconian Bayreuth has belonged to Bavaria. The World War II but was restored in Transport
town flourished during the 17th and 18th centuries when it the 1970s and is now a museum k Nuremberg, 86 km (53 miles).
was the residence of the margraves, particularly during the dedicated to the life and work £
time of Margravine Wilhelmine, sister of the Prussian King of the great composer. In the Franconian Village School
garden is Wagner’s tomb and
Frederick the Great and wife of Margrave Frederick.
that of his wife Cosima, the Museum. Based on the original
daughter of Franz Liszt. school furnishings and various
old photographs, the exhibition
E Franz-Liszt-Museum illustrates the teaching methods
Wahnfriedstraße 9. Tel (0921) 516 64 Festspielhaus, specially designed venue for the annual Wagner Festival that were used in this region
88. Open Sep–Jun: 10am–noon, more than a hundred years ago.
2–5pm daily; Jul–Aug: 10am–5pm F Festspielhaus town hosts a big beer festival Some 25 km (16 miles) from
daily. & Festspielhügel. Tel (0921) 787 80. each year, in July and August. Its Bayreuth, in Sanspareil Park near
A short distance from Villa & 8 Sep–Oct: 10am, 11am, 2pm, town hall has a beautiful Rococo Hollfeld, is the Felsen theater –
Wahnfried, at the junction 3pm daily; Nov: 2pm Sat; Dec–Apr façade dating from 1752. From an unusual 80-seat theatre set
of Wahnfriedstraße and Liszt 10am, 2pm daily. ∑ bayreuther- here you can walk to the castle in a natural grotto.
straße, stands the house in festspiele.de hill to visit the vast Plassenburg
which Hungarian composer Each July and August, Wagner Fortress, which has belonged to
Franz Liszt died in 1886. It is festivals are held in this theatre, the Hohenzollern family since
now a museum dedicated built between 1872–75 to a 1340. Until 1604, this was the seat
to the composer. design by Gottfried Semper. The of the von Brandenburg-
world prem iere of The Ring of Kulmbach margraves. Built in
P Eremitage the Nibelung played here in 1876. 1560–70, the gem in its crown is
Extraordinary Baroque interior of the Markgräfliches Opernhaus 4 km (2.5 miles) northeast of town. the Renaissance courtyard with
Tel (0921) 759 69 37. Castle: Open Apr– Environs arcades (Schöner Hof). The castle
F Markgräfliches Opernhaus + Neues Schloß Sep: 9am–6pm daily; 1 Oct–15 Oct: Approximately 20 km (12 miles) houses a huge collection of tin
Opernstraße 14. Tel (0921) 759 69 22. Ludwigstraße 21. Tel (0921) 759 69 21. 10am–4pm. Closed: 16 Oct–Mar. to the northwest of Bayreuth is fig urines, with some 30,000 items.
Closed The opera house is closed for Open Apr–Sep: 9am–6pm daily; Oct– & 8 Park: Open daily. the town of Kulmbach. Famous In Ködnitz, to the southeast of Felsentheater, in a natural grotto in
restoration work until 2019). & Mar: 10am–4pm daily. & 8 In 1715–18, following the for its countless breweries, the Kulmbach, is the Upper Sanspareil Park near Bayreuth
This is one of the finest The Neues Schloß (New Castle) example of the French king
theatres in the whole of was commissioned by Louis XIV and the fashion
Europe. The Markgräfliches Margravine Wilhelmine and among the nobility for playing MAINSTRASSE HauptbahnhofHauptbahnhof
SCHULSTRSASSE
300 m (330 yards)300 m (330 yards)
MAINSTRASSE
Opera House was constructed built by Joseph Saint-Pierre. The at ascetism, Margrave Georg SCHULSTRSASSE FestspielhausFestspielhaus Bayreuth City Centre
Roter Main
during the 1740s by Joseph elongated, three-storey structure Wilhelm ordered the building Roter Main 1 Markgräfliches
LUITPOLDPLATZ
ALBRECHT-
Saint-Pierre, with its splendidly combines classical lines with a of the Eremitage complex as LUITPOLDPLATZ ALBRECHT- Opernhaus
-DÜRER-STR. EremitageEremitage
-DÜRER-STR.
ornate Baroque interior rustic ground floor. The Italian a retreat. With its horseshoe- KULMBACHKULMBACH DERSTRASSE 2 Neues Schloß
ALEXAN-
WÖLFEL-
ALEXAN-
-STRASSE
-STRASSE
DERSTRASSE
designed by Giuseppe Galli wing was added in 1759. Nearly shaped orangery, the hermitage KANALSTRASSE WÖLFEL-
TELEMANN-
KANALSTRASSE
STRASSE
STRASSE
Bibiena and his son Carlo all the rooms have retained their (or Altes Schloß) was given to SpitalkircheSpitalkirche MAXIMILIANSTR. AltesAltes TELEMANN- 3 Richard Wagner Museum
who came from a Bolognese original Baroque and Rococo Margravine Wilhelmine as a SchlossSchloss Schloss-Schloss- MarkgräflichesMarkgräfliches 4 Franz-Liszt-Museum
(MARKT)
(MARKT)
MAXIMILIANSTR.
Altes RathausAltes Rathaus
family renowned for their decor. The park is arranged in birthday present. She then set Alte LateinschuleAlte Lateinschule kirchekirche OpernhausOpernhaus HOH ENZ OLL ERNRING
talent as theatre architects. a typically English style. about transforming it into a & Historisches& Historisches RICHARD-WAGNER-STR.
KANZLEISTRASSE
MuseumMuseum
pleasure palace. HOHENZOLLERNRING StadtkircheStadtkirche KANZLEISTRASSE
RICHARD-WAGNER-STR.
HOH ENZOLL ERNRING
LUDWIGSTRASSE
Heilig-Heilig- NeuesNeues VillaVilla
Richard Wagner (1813–1883) DreifaltigkeitDreifaltigkeit LUDWIGSTRASSE SchlossSchloss DeutschesDeutsches WahnfriedWahnfried
HOHENZOLLERNRING
The German composer is inseparably linked ItalienischesItalienisches FreimaurerFreimaurer WIELAND-WAGNER-STR.
WIELAND-WAGNER-STR.
MuseumMuseum
with Bayreuth, where he enjoyed his greatest Schlösschen &Schlösschen & Franz-Liszt-Franz-Liszt-
ArchäologischesArchäologisches
WILHEL-
MINENSTR.
MINENSTR.
artistic triumphs. His career, which did not run WILHEL- MuseumMuseum MuseumMuseum
C O S I M A - W A G N E R - S T R A S S E
smoothly in early days, began in Magdeburg, StadthalleStadthalle
Königsberg and Riga. From there he had to flee, FRIEDRICHSTRASSE
via London to Paris, from his pursuing creditors. HofgartenHofgarten
His reputation was firmly established by Bust of Wagner by W I T T E L S B A C H E R R I N G JEAN-PAUL-STRASSE C O S I M A - W A G N E R - S T R A S S E
FRIEDRICHSTRASSE
successful performances of his romantic operas Arno Breker (1939)
JEAN-PAUL-STRASSE
The Flying Dutchman (1843) and Tannhäuser
(1845) in Dresden. Wagner’s long-time sponsor
W I T T E L S B A C H E R R I N G
was the eccentric Bavarian king, Ludwig II. From 1872 Wagner lived in 0 metres 200
Bayreuth, where the Festspielhaus was built specifically for the operas. Tomb of Wagner and his wife in the
garden of Villa Wahnfried 0 yards 200
For hotels and restaurants in this area see pp496–7 and pp519–22 For additional map symbols see back flap
256-257_EW_Germany.indd 256 09/10/17 12:59 pm 256-257_EW_Germany.indd 257 09/10/17 1:00 pm
Eyewitness Travel LAYERS PRINTED:
Catalogue template “UK” LAYER
(Source v2.2)
Date 15th January 2013
Size 125mm x 217mm

BA V ARIA  257


VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
Road map D5. * 75,000.
n Luitpoldplatz 9 (0921-885 88).
_ Musica Bayreuth (May),
Fränkische Festwoche (May),
Richard-Wagner-Festspiele (Jul–
Aug), Bayreuther Barock (Sep).
Transport
k Nuremberg, 86 km (53 miles).
£
Franconian Village School
Museum. Based on the original
school furnishings and various
old photographs, the exhibition
illustrates the teaching methods
Festspielhaus, specially designed venue for the annual Wagner Festival that were used in this region
more than a hundred years ago.
F Festspielhaus town hosts a big beer festival Some 25 km (16 miles) from
Festspielhügel. Tel (0921) 787 80. each year, in July and August. Its Bayreuth, in Sanspareil Park near
& 8 Sep–Oct: 10am, 11am, 2pm, town hall has a beautiful Rococo Hollfeld, is the Felsen theater –
3pm daily; Nov: 2pm Sat; Dec–Apr façade dating from 1752. From an unusual 80-seat theatre set
10am, 2pm daily. ∑ bayreuther- here you can walk to the castle in a natural grotto.
festspiele.de hill to visit the vast Plassenburg
Each July and August, Wagner Fortress, which has belonged to
festivals are held in this theatre, the Hohenzollern family since
built between 1872–75 to a 1340. Until 1604, this was the seat
design by Gottfried Semper. The of the von Brandenburg-
world prem iere of The Ring of Kulmbach margraves. Built in
the Nibelung played here in 1876. 1560–70, the gem in its crown is
the Renaissance courtyard with
Environs arcades (Schöner Hof). The castle
Approximately 20 km (12 miles) houses a huge collection of tin
to the northwest of Bayreuth is fig urines, with some 30,000 items.
the town of Kulmbach. Famous In Ködnitz, to the southeast of Felsentheater, in a natural grotto in
for its countless breweries, the Kulmbach, is the Upper Sanspareil Park near Bayreuth

Hauptbahnhof
SCHULSTRSASSE
300 m (330 yards)
MAINSTRASSE
Roter Main Festspielhaus Bayreuth City Centre
LUITPOLDPLATZ ALEXAN- ALBRECHT- Opernhaus
1 Markgräfliches
-DÜRER-STR. Eremitage
KULMBACH KANALSTRASSE DERSTRASSE WÖLFEL- -STRASSE 2 Neues Schloß
STRASSE
Spitalkirche MAXIMILIANSTR. Altes TELEMANN- 3 Richard Wagner Museum
Schloss 4 Franz-Liszt-Museum
(MARKT)
Altes Rathaus Schloss- Markgräfliches
Opernhaus
kirche
Alte Lateinschule HOH ENZ OLL ERNRING
& Historisches RICHARD-WAGNER-STR.
Museum
Stadtkirche KANZLEISTRASSE
LUDWIGSTRASSE Freimaurer WIELAND-WAGNER-STR.
Heilig- Neues Villa
Dreifaltigkeit Schloss Wahnfried
Deutsches
HOHENZOLLERNRING
Italienisches
Schlösschen & Museum
WILHEL- Archäologisches Franz-Liszt-
MINENSTR.
Museum
Museum
C O S I M A - W A G N E R - S T R A S S E
Stadthalle
Hofgarten
FRIEDRICHSTRASSE
JEAN-PAUL-STRASSE
W I T T E L S B A C H E R R I N G
0 metres 200
0 yards 200
For additional map symbols see back flap
256-257_EW_Germany.indd 257 09/10/17 1:00 pm

258  SOUTHERN GERM AN Y BA V ARIA  259


9 Berching Amberg was once the residential The finest example of these is The St Salvator’s residence is situated in
town of the Rhine palatines, the Deutsches Haus, which Church features the northeastern part
Map D6. * 7,500. n Petten-
koferplatz 12 (08462-205 13). whose Renaissance palace and stands opposite St George’s original Gothic of the Old Town.
chancellery have survived to the Church. Dating from the late altars and a portal Remodelled several times
This charming little town, present day. 15th to the early 16th century, that has the it is now a Baroque Neo-
situated in the valley of the river The symbol of Amberg is the the house once belonged to scene of the Last Classical structure. Its 27
Sulz, boasts a history that Stadtbrille, the bridge spanning the Drechsel-Deufstetten family Judgement in original state apartments
stretches back to the 9th century. the river Vils, whose arches and is now a hotel-restaurant. the tympanum. include the Mirror Room,
To this day it retains the complete reflected in the river resemble The late-Gothic Church of St The former hospital Mirror Gallery, Dining
enclosure of its medieval city a pair of glasses – hence its George is a triple-nave hall- of the Holy Spirit is Room and Audience
walls, including towers and nickname “the town’s spectacles”. church with no transept. now home to an Room. It now houses the
gates with old oak doors. The Together with the presbytery, interesting Stadt­ Museum of Faience and Majestic Walhalla near Donaustauf
most beautiful of the towers is it forms one large interior museum. The Porcelain. The nearby
the Chinesische Turm (the crowned with magnificent 14th-century Hofgarten has a 102-m (335-ft) Altmühl, stands the picturesque
Chinese Tower). network vaults. The most town hall long Orangery. It also houses a Willibald Castle, which until the
The regional museum is well valuable items of the interior features a striking Kaspar Hauser Collection. 18th century was the residence
worth visiting, as are some of furnishings include the pulpit, external stone of prince-bishops. Now it
the local churches. These the font – which dates from stairway (1618). E Markgrafenmuseum houses an interesting museum
include an early Gothic church, around 1500 – and the Kaspar-Hauser-Platz 1. Tel (0981) 977 of artifacts from the Jurassic
Mariä Himmelfahrt, remodelled Crucifixion in the main altar, E Stadtmuseum 50 56. Open 10am–5pm daily. era, where visitors can see a
after 1756 by M Seybold and which is attributed to Michael Statue from the Vordere Gerbergasse Closed Mon (Oct–Apr). & very well preserved skeleton
featuring some beautiful Wolgemut. A fine view of the Tanzhaus façade 1. Tel (09081) 848 10. E Markgräfliche Residenz of archaeopteryx.
Rococo stucco ornaments. The town can be obtained from Open mid-Mar–Oct: “Ansbacher Fayence und A new bishop’s residence was
Baroque St Lorenz, with its 13th the church tower. 1:30–4:30pm Tue–Sun. 8 Nov–mid- Porzellan” built nearby from 1702 until
century tower and original late- In Turmgasse stands the Mar: open only to guided tours (book Promenade 27. Tel (0981) 953 83 90. 1768. Its west wing features
Gothic altar, is also noteworthy. Baroque palace of the Teutonic in advance by telephone). & Open Apr–Sep: 9am–6pm Tue–Sun; a magnificent staircase and
Order, built in 1760–64 by Oct–Mar: 10am–4pm Tue–Sun. 8 7 the Mirror Room, in which
Mathias Binder. the works of Mauritio Pedetti,
0 Amberg The late-Gothic main altar in St George’s e Ansbach Johann Jakob Berg and Michael
Church, Dinkelsbühl r Eichstätt Franz are displayed.
Map D5. * 43,000. n Hallplatz 2 w Nördlingen Map D6. * 40,000. £ n Johann-
(09621-102 39). Sebastian-Bach-Platz 1 (0981-512 43). Map D6. * 15,000. £ n Domplatz
q Dinkelsbühl _ Ansbacher Frühlingsfest (May),
Situated at the edge of the Map D6. * 20,000. £ Bach-Woche (every two years in Jul: the 8 (08421-600 1400). t Donaustauf
n Marktplatz 2 (09081-841 16).
Franconian Jura, on the banks Map D6. * 11,000. £ _ Stabenfest (May), Nördlinger next one is in 2019), Ansbacher Willibald, a close companion Walhalla. Tel (09403) 95 52 929.
n Altrathausplatz 14, (09851-902
of the river Vils, Amberg owes 440). _ Kinderzeche (mid-Jul). Pfingstmesse Scharlachrennen (Jun), Rokokospiele (Jul), Heimatfest (Jul). and compatriot of the Anglo- Open Apr–Sep: 9am–5:45pm; Oct:
its development to local iron Sommerfestspiele (Jul), Historisches Saxon missionary Boniface, 9am–4:45pm; Nov–Mar:
ore deposits and the steel This old Franconian town is one Stadtmauerfest (every third year in The town, situated west of established a missionary-abbey 10am–11:45am & 1–3:45pm. &
industry. The well-preserved, of the best-preserved medieval Sep; next in 2016 and 2019). Nuremberg, began its history in (Eihstat) here. Soon afterwards
oval-shaped old town is still urban complexes in Germany. AD 748 with the foundation of Eichstätt became an episcopal In 1830–42 Leo von Klenze built
encircled by medieval walls. At The walls surrounding the city The town is situated in the Ries a Benedictine Abbey by a man town. In 1634 a fire ripped the Walhalla (see above). This
the centre is an enchanting include four towers – Wörnitzer, Basin, which is an immense and named Gumbert. A settlement through the town, destroying monument to the national glory
market square with the vast Nördlinger, Seringer and well-preserved crater that was called Onoldsbach, which sprang four-fifths of its houses and four occupies a scenic location on
15th-century late-Gothic hall- Rothenburger Tor – which are formed millions of years ago up nearby, is now called Ansbach. churches; after this the town the River Danube. The building
church, Pfarrkirche St Martin, all almost intact. The residential by a meteor strike. From 1460 until 1791 Ansbach was rebuilt in Baroque style. stands on a raised terrace and
and Gothic town hall (1356), district of the town consists During the Middle Ages was the home of the von Eichstätt is home to the has the form of a Neo-Classical
both still with their mainly of timber- Nördlingen was a free town Brandenburg-Ansbach margraves country’s only Catholic uni- columned temple (similar to
original interiors. framed houses. of the Holy Roman Empire and and in 1791 it was incorporated versity, established in 1980. the Parthenon in Athens). It is
an important trade centre. The into Prussia; after 1806 it passed On the outskirts of town, on adorned with 121 marble busts
fortification walls that surround into Bavaria. The Markgräfliche a hill overlooking the River of artists and scientists.
the city include five gates and
12 towers (dating from the 14th
to the 15th centuries) that have
survived intact to this day.
The late-Gothic church of St
George was built by Nikolaus
Eseler, who also built the St
George Church in Dinkelsbühl.
The church is a triple-nave hall-
church with round pillars and
network vaults. Its imposing
west tower, known as the Daniel
Tower, offers a magnificent
panoramic view of the town
The symbol of Amberg is the bridge named “the town spectacles” and its environs. Orangery of the Markgräfliche residence, in Ansbach
For hotels and restaurants in this area see pp496–7 and pp519–22


258-259_EW_Germany.indd 258 09/10/17 1:00 pm 258-259_EW_Germany.indd 259 09/10/17 1:00 pm

BA V ARIA  259


The St Salvator’s residence is situated in
Church features the northeastern part
original Gothic of the Old Town.
altars and a portal Remodelled several times
that has the it is now a Baroque Neo-
scene of the Last Classical structure. Its 27
Judgement in original state apartments
the tympanum. include the Mirror Room,
The former hospital Mirror Gallery, Dining
of the Holy Spirit is Room and Audience
now home to an Room. It now houses the
interesting Stadt­ Museum of Faience and Majestic Walhalla near Donaustauf
museum. The Porcelain. The nearby
14th-century Hofgarten has a 102-m (335-ft) Altmühl, stands the picturesque
town hall long Orangery. It also houses a Willibald Castle, which until the
features a striking Kaspar Hauser Collection. 18th century was the residence
external stone of prince-bishops. Now it
stairway (1618). E Markgrafenmuseum houses an interesting museum
Kaspar-Hauser-Platz 1. Tel (0981) 977 of artifacts from the Jurassic
E Stadtmuseum 50 56. Open 10am–5pm daily. era, where visitors can see a
Statue from the Vordere Gerbergasse Closed Mon (Oct–Apr). & very well preserved skeleton
Tanzhaus façade 1. Tel (09081) 848 10. E Markgräfliche Residenz of archaeopteryx.
Open mid-Mar–Oct: “Ansbacher Fayence und A new bishop’s residence was
1:30–4:30pm Tue–Sun. 8 Nov–mid- Porzellan” built nearby from 1702 until
Mar: open only to guided tours (book Promenade 27. Tel (0981) 953 83 90. 1768. Its west wing features
in advance by telephone). &
Open Apr–Sep: 9am–6pm Tue–Sun; a magnificent staircase and
Oct–Mar: 10am–4pm Tue–Sun. 8 7 the Mirror Room, in which
the works of Mauritio Pedetti,
e Ansbach Johann Jakob Berg and Michael
r Eichstätt Franz are displayed.
Map D6. * 40,000. £ n Johann-
Sebastian-Bach-Platz 1 (0981-512 43). Map D6. * 15,000. £ n Domplatz
_ Ansbacher Frühlingsfest (May), 8 (08421-600 1400).
Bach-Woche (every two years in Jul: the t Donaustauf
next one is in 2019), Ansbacher Willibald, a close companion Walhalla. Tel (09403) 95 52 929.
Rokokospiele (Jul), Heimatfest (Jul). and compatriot of the Anglo- Open Apr–Sep: 9am–5:45pm; Oct:
Saxon missionary Boniface, 9am–4:45pm; Nov–Mar:
The town, situated west of established a missionary-abbey 10am–11:45am & 1–3:45pm. &
Nuremberg, began its history in (Eihstat) here. Soon afterwards
AD 748 with the foundation of Eichstätt became an episcopal In 1830–42 Leo von Klenze built
a Benedictine Abbey by a man town. In 1634 a fire ripped the Walhalla (see above). This
named Gumbert. A settlement through the town, destroying monument to the national glory
called Onoldsbach, which sprang four-fifths of its houses and four occupies a scenic location on
up nearby, is now called Ansbach. churches; after this the town the River Danube. The building
From 1460 until 1791 Ansbach was rebuilt in Baroque style. stands on a raised terrace and
was the home of the von Eichstätt is home to the has the form of a Neo-Classical
Brandenburg-Ansbach margraves country’s only Catholic uni- columned temple (similar to
and in 1791 it was incorporated versity, established in 1980. the Parthenon in Athens). It is
into Prussia; after 1806 it passed On the outskirts of town, on adorned with 121 marble busts
into Bavaria. The Markgräfliche a hill overlooking the River of artists and scientists.














Orangery of the Markgräfliche residence, in Ansbach




258-259_EW_Germany.indd 259 09/10/17 1:00 pm

260  SOUTHERN GERM AN Y NUREMBERG  261

y Nürnberg (Nuremberg) Sights at a Glance crucifix within the main altar VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
and the magnificent statue
Situated on the river Pegnitz, Nuremberg is not only a paradise 1 Frauentor of the Archangel Michael Practical Information
for lovers of its famous gingerbread and sausages but is also 2 Marthakirche standing by the second pillar Road map D6. * 490,000.
3 Mauthalle
n Hauptmarkt 18; Königstraße
the symbol of Germany’s history. The earliest records of the 4 Germanisches Nationalmuseum of the main nave. There are 93 (0911-233 60).
town, the second largest in Bavaria, date from 1050 when it 5 St Lorenz-Kirche also several Gothic altars and _ Internationale Nürnberger
some magnificent 15th-century
was a trading settlement. From 1219 Nuremberg, a free town 6 Lorenzer Platz stained-glass windows (1493– Orgelwoche (Jun–Jul); Christ-
of the Holy Roman Empire, was an important centre of craft 7 Heilig-Geist-Spital 95). The pillars of the nave are kindlesmarkt (late Nov–24 Dec).
∑ tourismus.nuernberg.de
and commerce. Its most rapid development took place in the 8 Hauptmarkt adorned with a number of Transport
15th and 16th centuries, when many prominent artists, 9 Frauenkirche Impressive Mauthalle fascinating statues of k on the northeast outskirts
craftsmen and intellectuals worked here, making Nuremberg 0 Rathaus dominating Königstraße of town. £
one of the cultural centres of Europe. q Spielzeugmuseum
w Sebalduskirche MAXTORGRABEN
Flughafen
Flughafen
e Egidienkirche 8 km (5 miles) Gothic original. Diagonally across
MAXTORGRABEN
8 km (5 miles)
constructed during the r Kaiserburg VESTNERTORGRABEN L A N G E G AS S E the square is the Nassauer Haus,
VESTNERTORGRABEN
L A N G E G AS S E
15th and 16th centuries. t Albrecht-Dürer-Haus a Gothic mansion whose lower
The vast tower, Dicker Turm, Kaiserburg SÖLDNERSG. TREIBBERG. HirsvogelsaalHirsvogelsaal storeys were built in the 13th
SÖLDNERSG.
Kaiserburg
T E T Z E L G A S S E
was erected nearby in the NEUT ORGRABEN AM ÖLBERG WEBERSPLATZ HIRSCHELGASSE century. The upper floors were
HIRSCHELGASSE
SCHILDGASSE
AM ÖLBERG
St-Johannis-
15th century. Königstor, a St-Johannis- NEUT ORGRABEN SCHILDGASSE T E T Z E L G A S S E PellerhausPellerhaus schlösschenschlösschen added in the 15th century.
ÄUSSERE LAUFER GASSE
TREIBBERG.
Tucher-Tucher-
Friedhof
Friedhof
NEUTORMAUER
WEBERSPLATZ
magnificent gate that once NEUTORMAUER Stadtmuseum Egidienkirche ÄUSSERE LAUFER GASSE RATHENAUPLATZ RATHENAUPLATZ Rathenau- A short distance from
Rathenau-
Stadtmuseum
platz
Egidienkirche
platz
stood to the right of Dicker Dürer-Haus Fembohaus BURGSTRASSE BURGSTRASSE SEBALDSEBALD L AUFERTORMAU E R L AUFERTORMAU E R the square, in Karolinen-
Albrecht-
Albrecht-
Fembohaus
Dürer-Haus
INN. LAUFER GASSE
Turm, was dismantled in the INN. LAUFER GASSE MÜNZGASSE. straße, is a fine sculpture by
MÜNZGASSE.
W E S T T O R G R A B E N
THERESIENSTR.
19th century. Beyond Sebalduskirche THERESIENSTR. BECKSCHLAGERG. Henry Moore.
Sebalduskirche
BECKSCHLAGERG.
B I N D E R G A S S E
B I N D E R G A S S E
Rathaus
Frauentor are a number of Rathaus ROSENTAL
LAUFERTORGRABEN
ROSENTAL
alleys with half-timbered W E S T T O R G R A B E N MAXPLATZ Spielzeug- MARTIN-TREU-STRASSE E a Heilig-Geist-Spital
MARTIN-TREU-STRASS
Spielzeug-
SCHMAUSENG.
MAXPLATZ
houses, shops and cafés, museum OBSTMARKT. TUCHERSTRASSE SCHMAUSENG. In the centre of town, on the
museum
TUCHERSTRASSE
Picturesque alley near Frauentor built after the war. Max-Max- HAUPT-HAUPT- Frauenkirche N E U E G A S S E LAUFERTORGRABEN banks of the river Pegnitz, stands
N E U E G A S S E
OBSTMARKT.
MARKTMARKT
WESTTORMAUER
the Hospital of the Holy Spirit.
Frauenkirche
River Pegnitz
Spital-
Spital-
SPITAL GASSE
Exploring Lorenzer Alstadt R Marthakirche WESTTORMAUER brückebrücke Fleisch- SPITAL GASSE brücke River Pegnitz Founded in 1332, this is one of
brücke
Fleisch-
brücke
The southern part of the old Königstraße 74–78. Karls- brücke the largest hospitals built in the
Karls-
Heilig-Geist-
brücke
Wöhrder
Heu-
KARL-GRILLENBERGER-STR.
Heu-
town, known as Lorenzer Dating from the 14th century, brücke Heilig-Geist- brücke Wöhrder Middle Ages and features a lovely
Wiese
Wiese
KAISERSTRASSE
KAISERSTRASSE
Spital
Spital
brücke
MARIENTORMA U ER
SP I TTLERTORGRAB E N
Alstadt, is separated from the the small hospital church of St KARL-GRILLENBERGER-STR. ADLERSTRASSE KÖNIGSTRASSE KÖNIGSTRASSE inner courtyard with wooden
PETER-VISCHER-STR.
HINTERE LEDERG.
HINTERE LEDERG.
ADLERSTRASSE
MARIENTOR G R A B E N
northern part by the river Martha is tucked between the Nassauer LORENZERLORENZER MARIENTORMA U ER galleries. The wing that spans the
PLATZPLATZ
Nassauer
VORDERE LEDERGASSE
Haus
Haus
Pegnitz and encircled to the surrounding houses. Though its SP I TTLERTORGRAB E N VORDERE LEDERGASSE KA ROLINE N S T R PETER-VISCHER-STR. KATHARINENG. MARIENTOR G R A B E N river was built during extension
KA ROLINE N S T R. .
south by the city walls. Many interior is virtually devoid of Lorenzkirche St. Lorenz- LORENZLORENZ works in 1488–1527. Lepers were
SCHLOTFEGERGASSE
KATHARINENG.
Lorenzkirche
St. Lorenz-
GLEISS- BUHLSTRASSE
of the area’s historic treasures furnishing, it features some SCHLOTFEGERGASSE Weisser B R U N N E N G A S S E Kirche kept at some distance from the
B R U N N E N G A S S E
Kirche
Weisser
FÄRBE RS T RASS
Turm
were carefully reconstructed magnificent Gothic stained- Turm B R E I T E G A S S E E other patients, in a separate half-
B R E I T E G A S S
THEATERG. LORENZER STR.
SCHLEHENGASSE
KÖNIGSTORGRABEN
following severe bomb damage glass windows, which date SCHLEHENGASSE DR.-KURT- FÄRBE RS T RASS E E FRA UENGASSE Mauthalle KÖNIGSTRASSE THEATERG. LORENZER STR. GLEISS- BUHLSTRASSE timbered building that was
DR.-KURT-
FRA UENGASSE Mauthalle
during World War II. from around 1390. JAKOBSTRASSE SCHUMACHER-STR. MARIENSTR. specially erected for the purpose.
LUDWIGSTRASSE
LUDWIGSTRASSE KLARAGASSE KÖNIGSTORGRABEN From 1424 until 1796, the
SCHUMACHER-STR.
JAKOBSTRASSE
MARIENSTR.
OTTOSTRASSE
KLARAGASSE
KÖNIGSTRASSE
P Frauentor P Mauthalle OTTOSTRASSE ENGELHARDS G. ENGELHARDS G. insignia of the Holy Roman
Martha-
Frauentorgraben. Hallplatz 2. Germanisches VORD. STERNG. VORD. STERNG. Martha- Empire were kept here rather
Germanisches
kirche
kirche
Nationalmuseum
Neues
Neues
Dokumentationszentrum
Frauentor is one of the most The massive structure that PlärrerPlärrer FRAUENTORMAUER Nationalmuseum Museum Dokumentationszentrum than in the castle.
FRAUENTORMAUER
Reichsparteitagsgelände
Reichsparteitagsgelände
Museum
attractive gates into the old dominates Königstraße is a F R A U E N T O R G R A B E N FRAUENTORMAUER Hauptbahnhof The Heilig-Geist-Spital now
FRAUENTORMAUER
Hauptbahnhof
F R A U E N T O R G R A B E N
town. It is installed in the Gothic granary built in 1498– Opernhaus Frauentor 0 metres 300 houses a retirement home and
Opernhaus
Frauentor
massive city walls that were 1502 by Hans Beheim the Elder. a restaurant. The entrance to
It originally housed the town’s HauptbahnhofHauptbahnhof 0 yards 300 the building is on the northern
municipal scales and the side of the river.
customs office. In the 19th Gothic church of St Lorenz, the Apostles, dating from
century, the building was whose basilica-style main body the late 14th century.
converted into a department was built around 1270–1350.
store and continues in that role The vast hall presbytery was P Lorenzer Platz
today, following post-war added much later, in 1439–77. Overlooked by the church of
reconstruction. On entering the church it is St Lorenz, Lorenzer Platz is a
worth taking a look at the popular meeting place for the
E Germanisches magnificent main portal, which citizens of Nuremberg and
Nationalmuseum is adorned with sculptures. In visitors alike. Outside the church
See pp264–5. the main nave of the church, is the Fountain of the Virtues,
suspended from the ceiling Tugendbrunnen (1589), with
R St Lorenz-Kirche above the altar, is a superb water cascading from the
Lorenzer Platz. group sculpture, Annunciation, breasts of its seven Virtues.
One of the most important the work of Veit Stoß (1519). He Nearby is a statue of St Lorenz, Heilig-Geist-Spital reflected in the waters
The red rooftops of Nuremberg and the slender towers of St Lorenz-Kirche buildings in Nuremberg is the was also the creator of the which is a copy of the 1350 of the river Pegnitz
For hotels and restaurants in this area see pp496–7 and pp519–22 For map symbols see back flap
260-261_EW_Germany.indd 260 09/10/17 12:49 pm 260-261_EW_Germany.indd 261 09/10/17 12:49 pm

NUREMBERG  261


crucifix within the main altar VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
and the magnificent statue
of the Archangel Michael Practical Information
standing by the second pillar Road map D6. * 490,000.
of the main nave. There are n Hauptmarkt 18; Königstraße
also several Gothic altars and 93 (0911-233 60).
some magnificent 15th-century _ Internationale Nürnberger
stained-glass windows (1493– Orgelwoche (Jun–Jul); Christ-
kindlesmarkt (late Nov–24 Dec).
95). The pillars of the nave are ∑ tourismus.nuernberg.de
adorned with a number of Transport
Impressive Mauthalle fascinating statues of k on the northeast outskirts
dominating Königstraße of town. £

Flughafen MAXTORGRABEN Gothic original. Diagonally across
8 km (5 miles)
L A N G E G AS S E a Gothic mansion whose lower
VESTNERTORGRABEN the square is the Nassauer Haus,
SÖLDNERSG. TREIBBERG. Hirsvogelsaal storeys were built in the 13th
NEUT ORGRABEN AM ÖLBERG WEBERSPLATZ HIRSCHELGASSE century. The upper floors were
Kaiserburg
St-Johannis- SCHILDGASSE Pellerhaus Tucher-
added in the 15th century.
ÄUSSERE LAUFER GASSE
Friedhof NEUTORMAUER Stadtmuseum T E T Z E L G A S S E schlösschen RATHENAUPLATZ Rathenau- A short distance from
Egidienkirche
SEBALD
the square, in Karolinen-
Albrecht-
Fembohaus
Dürer-Haus Sebalduskirche BURGSTRASSE THERESIENSTR. INN. LAUFER GASSE MÜNZGASSE. L AUFERTORMAU E R platz Henry Moore.
straße, is a fine sculpture by
W E S T T O R G R A B E N MAXPLATZ Spielzeug- HAUPT- Rathaus B I N D E R G A S S E ROSENTAL LAUFERTORGRABEN a Heilig-Geist-Spital
BECKSCHLAGERG.
MARTIN-TREU-STRASSE
SCHMAUSENG.
museum
In the centre of town, on the
TUCHERSTRASSE
banks of the river Pegnitz, stands
N E U E G A S S E
OBSTMARKT.
WESTTORMAUER brücke Karls- MARKT Frauenkirche Spital Spital- River Pegnitz Wöhrder the Hospital of the Holy Spirit.
Max-
SPITAL GASSE
Founded in 1332, this is one of
brücke
Fleisch-
the largest hospitals built in the
brücke
Heilig-Geist-
brücke
KÖNIGSTRASSE
Heu-
Middle Ages and features a lovely
Wiese
brücke
KAISERSTRASSE
SP I TTLERTORGRAB E N KARL-GRILLENBERGER-STR. KA ROLINE N S T R. St. Lorenz- PETER-VISCHER-STR. LORENZ MARIENTORMA U ER inner courtyard with wooden
HINTERE LEDERG.
ADLERSTRASSE
MARIENTOR G R A B E N
galleries. The wing that spans the
LORENZER
VORDERE LEDERGASSE
Nassauer
PLATZ
Haus
river was built during extension
works in 1488–1527. Lepers were
SCHLOTFEGERGASSE
KATHARINENG.
Lorenzkirche
kept at some distance from the
B R U N N E N G A S S E
Kirche
Turm
B R E I T E G A S S E
SCHLEHENGASSE Weisser FÄRBE RS T RASS E FRA UENGASSE Mauthalle KÖNIGSTRASSE THEATERG. LORENZER STR. GLEISS- BUHLSTRASSE other patients, in a separate half-
timbered building that was
DR.-KURT-
LUDWIGSTRASSE ENGELHARDS G. JAKOBSTRASSE SCHUMACHER-STR. KLARAGASSE KÖNIGSTORGRABEN MARIENSTR. specially erected for the purpose.
OTTOSTRASSE
From 1424 until 1796, the
Empire were kept here rather
Germanisches Martha- insignia of the Holy Roman
kirche
Plärrer FRAUENTORMAUER Nationalmuseum VORD. STERNG. Museum Dokumentationszentrum than in the castle.
Neues
Reichsparteitagsgelände
FRAUENTORMAUER Hauptbahnhof The Heilig-Geist-Spital now
F R A U E N T O R G R A B E N
Opernhaus Frauentor houses a retirement home and
0 metres 300 a restaurant. The entrance to
Hauptbahnhof
0 yards 300 the building is on the northern
side of the river.
Gothic church of St Lorenz, the Apostles, dating from
whose basilica-style main body the late 14th century.
was built around 1270–1350.
The vast hall presbytery was P Lorenzer Platz
added much later, in 1439–77. Overlooked by the church of
On entering the church it is St Lorenz, Lorenzer Platz is a
worth taking a look at the popular meeting place for the
magnificent main portal, which citizens of Nuremberg and
is adorned with sculptures. In visitors alike. Outside the church
the main nave of the church, is the Fountain of the Virtues,
suspended from the ceiling Tugendbrunnen (1589), with
above the altar, is a superb water cascading from the
group sculpture, Annunciation, breasts of its seven Virtues.
the work of Veit Stoß (1519). He Nearby is a statue of St Lorenz, Heilig-Geist-Spital reflected in the waters
was also the creator of the which is a copy of the 1350 of the river Pegnitz
For map symbols see back flap
260-261_EW_Germany.indd 261 09/10/17 12:49 pm

262  SOUTHERN GERM AN Y NUREMBERG  263

Exploring Nürnberg (Nuremberg) P Rathaus
Rathausplatz. Albrecht Dürer (1471–1528)
Nuremberg was once an important publishing centre. The present town hall consists One of the most outstanding painters of
Schedel’s Liber Chronicarum was published here in 1493 of several sections. Facing the the Renaissance era, Dürer was born in
and, in 1543 – following the town’s official adoption of the Rathausplatz is the oldest, Nuremberg. He began his career as a gold-
Reformation in 1525 – The Revolutions of the Celestial Spheres Gothic part, built in 1332–40 smith in his father’s workshop, and learned
painting at Michael Wolgemut’s studio. He
and remodelled in the early
by Copernicus was published. The Thirty Years’ War ended the 15th century. Behind, facing achieved fame not only as a painter, but
town’s development but, during the 19th century, it became Hauptmarkt, is the Renaissance also as a brilliant engraver and respected
the focus for the Pan-German movement. In 1945–49 the part, built in 1616–22 by Jakob theoretician. He was a shrewd observer of
town was the scene of the trials for war crimes of Nazi leaders. Wolff. Its magnificent portals are the surrounding world and a sensitive
decorated with heraldic motifs. artist, whose works are highly valued. Dürer’s self-portrait
The courtyard features a
19-metre (62-ft) high, fountain dating from 1557.
finely carved spire The timber-frame building of the At its foot are the Kaiserstallung Copies of his pictures provide a
standing at the centre of E Spielzeugmuseum Albrecht-Dürer-Haus (Emperor’s stables), which useful insight into the work of
an octagonal pool. The Karlstraße 13–15. Tel (0911) 231 31 64. now houses a youth hostel. this famous Nuremberg citizen.
pool is surrounded by a Open 10am–5pm Tue–Fri, 10am–6pm R Egidienkirche A continued climb will bring you
Renaissance grille that Sat & Sun. Closed Good Friday, 24, 25, Egidienplatz. to the courtyard of the imperial Z St-Johannis-Friedhof
includes the famous 26, 31 Dec. & Egidienkirche is the only surviving palace, which features a round Am Johannisfriedhof.
golden ring: the local This enchanting toy museum, Baroque church in Nuremberg. Its tower (Sinwellturm) dating from The St John’s Cemetery is one of
tradition is that if you turn established in 1971, houses a façade, built after the fire of 1696, the 12th century, and a deep the best preserved and most
the ring three times, your magnificent collection of tin hides a building containing well – the Tiefe Brunnen. Passing important in Europe. Established
wishes will come true. The soldiers and a huge collection elements of the previous through the inner gate of the in 1518, it has provided a resting
pool is adorned with the of dolls and puppets. Its Romanesque-Gothic Benedictine castle you will finally reach its place for many famous people,
statues of philosophers, greatest attraction, however, church. The older chapels, heart, the residential building. including Albrecht Dürer
evangelists and church is a collection of antique dolls’ including the Euchariuskapelle, (No. 649), the sculptor Veit Stoß
fathers, while the spire is houses, filled with miniature Tetzel kapellethe and Wolfgang- P Albrecht-Dürer-Haus (No. 268), the goldsmith Wenzel
decorated with the statues furniture and equipment. kapelle, survive to this day. Albrecht-Dürer-Straße 39. Tel (0911) Jamnitzer (No. 664) and the
of Electors and of Jewish 231 25 68. Open 10am–5pm Tue–Fri painter Anselm Feuerbach (No.
and Christian heroes. R Sebalduskirche + Kaiserburg (to 8pm Thu), 10am–6pm Sat & Sun; 715). The cemetery also contains
Detail of Schöner Brunnen, in Hauptmarkt Features and details of the Winklerstraße 26. Open Jan–Mar: Kaiserburg-Museum: Innerer Burghof. Jul–Sep & during Christkindlesmarkt: a rich array of tombs from the
original fountain are kept 9:30am–4pm daily; Apr–Dec: Tel (0911) 244 65 90. Open Apr–Sep: also open 10am–5pm Mon. & 8 16th, 17th and 18th centuries.
P Hauptmarkt in the Germanisches National­ 9:30am–6pm daily. 9am–6pm daily; Oct–Mar: 10am–4pm ∑ museen.nuernberg.de
Each year the Hauptmarkt museum (see pp264–5). The oldest of Nuremberg’s daily. & ∑ kaiserburg- Spending much of his P Dokumentationszentrum
provides a picturesque setting churches, Sebalduskirche nuernberg.de childhood in a house on the Reichsparteitagsgelände
for the town’s famous R Frauenkirche was built in 1230–73 as a The three castles that tower over corner of Burgstraße and Obere Bayernstraße. 110. Tel (0911) 231 75
Christkindlesmarkt, which goes Hauptmarkt. Open daily. Romanesque, two-choir Nuremberg include the central Schmiedgasse, the renowned 38. Open 9am–6pm Mon–Fri,
on throughout Advent. At this Commissioned by Emperor basilica. During remodelling burgraves’ castle, with the Free artist and engraver Albrecht Dürer 10am–6pm Sat & Sun. &
famous market you can buy Charles IV, this Gothic hall- in the 14th century, it was Reich’s buildings to the east, and lived in this house from 1509 until This vast, unfinished building
gingerbread, enjoy the taste church dates from 1352–58. given two side naves and a the Imperial castle (whose origins his death in 1528. On the 300th complex in the southern part
of German sausages, warm Over its richly decorated soaring western hall-choir. The go back to the 12th century) to anniversary of his death, the of town dates from the Nazi era,
yourself with a glass of mulled vestibule is the oriel of the Gothic towers were completed the west. When climbing up the building was bought by the town built for National Party gath er-
wine spiced with cloves and west choir. Its gable contains in the late 15th century. At the Burgstrasse you will first reach the and many rooms have since been ings. The building now houses a
buy locally made souvenirs. a clock from Männleinlaufen, centre of the presbytery is the Fünfeckturm (Pentagonal Tower), reconstructed. The third-floor historical exhibition and archive,
Nuremberg’s star attraction installed in 1509. Each day at magnificent tomb of St Sebald. which dates from 1040. The room now contains a printing reminding and edu cating
is the Gothic Schöner Brunnen noon the clock displays a This cast bronze structure was oldest building in town, press dating from Dürer’s time. visitors of its horrifying past.
(Beautiful Fountain), which was procession of Electors paying made by Peter Vischer the it is an architectural relic
probably erected around 1385 homage to the Emperor. Also Elder. It houses a silver coffin of the von Zollern
but replaced in the early 20th noteworthy is the Gothic altar (1397) containing relics of the burgraves’ castle.
century with a replica. It (Tucher Altar), which dates saint. The church features
consists of a from 1445. some splendid carvings by
Veit Stoß, including a
magnificent statue of St
Andrew (1505), which stands
in the ambulatory around the
presbytery, the Volckamersche
Passion (1499) and the
Crucifixion scene in the main
altar (1520). Also noteworthy
is the magnificent Gothic
font and the Tucher family
epitaph by Hans von
Heraldic arms adorning the tympanum of the town hall portal Kulmbach (1513). The buildings of the Kaiserburg, towering over the town
For hotels and restaurants in this area see pp496–7 and pp519–22



262-263_EW_Germany.indd 262 09/10/17 1:00 pm 262-263_EW_Germany.indd 263 09/10/17 1:00 pm
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(Source v2.2)
Date 15th January 2013
Size 125mm x 217mm

NUREMBERG  263


Albrecht Dürer (1471–1528)
One of the most outstanding painters of
the Renaissance era, Dürer was born in
Nuremberg. He began his career as a gold-
smith in his father’s workshop, and learned
painting at Michael Wolgemut’s studio. He
achieved fame not only as a painter, but
also as a brilliant engraver and respected
theoretician. He was a shrewd observer of
the surrounding world and a sensitive
artist, whose works are highly valued. Dürer’s self-portrait


The timber-frame building of the At its foot are the Kaiserstallung Copies of his pictures provide a
Albrecht-Dürer-Haus (Emperor’s stables), which useful insight into the work of
now houses a youth hostel. this famous Nuremberg citizen.
R Egidienkirche A continued climb will bring you
Egidienplatz. to the courtyard of the imperial Z St-Johannis-Friedhof
Egidienkirche is the only surviving palace, which features a round Am Johannisfriedhof.
Baroque church in Nuremberg. Its tower (Sinwellturm) dating from The St John’s Cemetery is one of
façade, built after the fire of 1696, the 12th century, and a deep the best preserved and most
hides a building containing well – the Tiefe Brunnen. Passing important in Europe. Established
elements of the previous through the inner gate of the in 1518, it has provided a resting
Romanesque-Gothic Benedictine castle you will finally reach its place for many famous people,
church. The older chapels, heart, the residential building. including Albrecht Dürer
including the Euchariuskapelle, (No. 649), the sculptor Veit Stoß
Tetzel kapellethe and Wolfgang- P Albrecht-Dürer-Haus (No. 268), the goldsmith Wenzel
kapelle, survive to this day. Albrecht-Dürer-Straße 39. Tel (0911) Jamnitzer (No. 664) and the
231 25 68. Open 10am–5pm Tue–Fri painter Anselm Feuerbach (No.
+ Kaiserburg (to 8pm Thu), 10am–6pm Sat & Sun; 715). The cemetery also contains
Kaiserburg-Museum: Innerer Burghof. Jul–Sep & during Christkindlesmarkt: a rich array of tombs from the
Tel (0911) 244 65 90. Open Apr–Sep: also open 10am–5pm Mon. & 8 16th, 17th and 18th centuries.
9am–6pm daily; Oct–Mar: 10am–4pm ∑ museen.nuernberg.de
daily. & ∑ kaiserburg- Spending much of his P Dokumentationszentrum
nuernberg.de childhood in a house on the Reichsparteitagsgelände
The three castles that tower over corner of Burgstraße and Obere Bayernstraße. 110. Tel (0911) 231 75
Nuremberg include the central Schmiedgasse, the renowned 38. Open 9am–6pm Mon–Fri,
burgraves’ castle, with the Free artist and engraver Albrecht Dürer 10am–6pm Sat & Sun. &
Reich’s buildings to the east, and lived in this house from 1509 until This vast, unfinished building
the Imperial castle (whose origins his death in 1528. On the 300th complex in the southern part
go back to the 12th century) to anniversary of his death, the of town dates from the Nazi era,
the west. When climbing up the building was bought by the town built for National Party gath er-
Burgstrasse you will first reach the and many rooms have since been ings. The building now houses a
Fünfeckturm (Pentagonal Tower), reconstructed. The third-floor historical exhibition and archive,
which dates from 1040. The room now contains a printing reminding and edu cating
oldest building in town, press dating from Dürer’s time. visitors of its horrifying past.
it is an architectural relic
of the von Zollern
burgraves’ castle.













The buildings of the Kaiserburg, towering over the town




262-263_EW_Germany.indd 263 09/10/17 1:00 pm

264  SOUTHERN GERM AN Y NUREMBERG  265

Nuremberg: Germanisches Nationalmuseum Gallery Guide VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
The exhibits have been arranged in sections,
This museum, which was officially opened in ranging from prehistory to the Middle Ages, Practical Information
1852, was founded by a Franconian aristocrat and are located on the ground and first Kartäusergasse 1. Tel (0911) 133
named Hans von Aufsess. It houses a unique floors. Twentieth-century art is on 10. Open 10am–6pm Tue–Sun
(to 9pm Wed). Closed Shrove
the second floor and the toy
collection of antiquities from the German- collection is housed Tue, 24, 25, 31 Dec. &
speaking world. In 1945, towards the end of separately. ∑ gnm.de
World War II, the buildings that had originally
housed the museum were bombed. The
architecture of the modern building, which
was completed in 1993, cleverly incorporates First floor
the remaining fragments of a former
Carthusian abbey. Among the most valuable
items in the museum’s collection are works by Madonna with Child
Tilman Riemenschneider, Konrad Witz, Lucas Crowned by Angels
Cranach the Elder, Albrecht Altdorfer, Albrecht This picture is by Hans
Holbein the Elder (around
Dürer and Hans Baldung Grien. 1465–1524) who created
many festive altarpieces
using warm colours.
. Archangel (1516)
This enchanting wood-
carving of the archangel Torquetum
Raphaël is one of many Johannes Praetorius from
works produced by Nuremberg produced this engraved
Veit Stoss after his copper device in 1568, designed to
return from Cracow. measure the positions of the stars.


Cloisters

Former
Carthusian
church Library . Portrait of Michael
Wolgemut (1516)
Albrecht Dürer painted
this portrait of his
predecessor and master,
Wolgemut, 30 years after
commencing work at
his studio.


Key to Floorplan
Textiles and folk art
Pre-1800 decorative arts
Crafts and guilds
Ground floor Scientific instruments and
pharmaceutical history
Entrance to study Musical instruments and
Brooch from collections and library applied arts
Domagnano Pre-1700 everyday culture
This Ostrogothic buckle . Cover of the Middle Ages
from the 5th century AD, Codex Aureus . Schlüsselfeld Vessel Arms and armour, garden sculpture
shaped like an eagle, The richly ornamented This beautiful silver-gold Prehistory and early history
was discovered in the cover of the Codex Aureus, sailing ship, supported by a
late 19th century in also known as the Golden two-tailed mermaid, is an Archive, prints and drawings, coins
and medals
Domagnano, in San Marino. It Gospel Book of Echternach, ornamental table vessel made
probably belonged to a rich was produced in Trier in in 1503 by an unidentified Renaissance, Baroque, Enlightenment
Ostrogothic aristocrat. the 10th century. goldsmith from Nuremberg. Non-exhibition space
For hotels and restaurants in this area see pp496–7 and pp519–22


264-265_EW_Germany.indd 264 09/10/17 1:00 pm 264-265_EW_Germany.indd 265 09/10/17 1:00 pm
Eyewitness Travel LAYERS PRINTED:
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(Source v2.5)
Date 6th February2013
Size 125mm x 217mm

NUREMBERG  265

Gallery Guide VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
The exhibits have been arranged in sections,
ranging from prehistory to the Middle Ages, Practical Information
and are located on the ground and first Kartäusergasse 1. Tel (0911) 133
floors. Twentieth-century art is on 10. Open 10am–6pm Tue–Sun
the second floor and the toy (to 9pm Wed). Closed Shrove
collection is housed Tue, 24, 25, 31 Dec. &
separately. ∑ gnm.de



First floor











Torquetum
Johannes Praetorius from
Nuremberg produced this engraved
copper device in 1568, designed to
measure the positions of the stars.







Library . Portrait of Michael
Wolgemut (1516)
Albrecht Dürer painted
this portrait of his
predecessor and master,
Wolgemut, 30 years after
commencing work at
his studio.


Key to Floorplan
Textiles and folk art
Pre-1800 decorative arts
Crafts and guilds
Scientific instruments and
pharmaceutical history
Musical instruments and
applied arts
Pre-1700 everyday culture
Middle Ages
. Schlüsselfeld Vessel Arms and armour, garden sculpture
This beautiful silver-gold Prehistory and early history
sailing ship, supported by a
two-tailed mermaid, is an Archive, prints and drawings, coins
and medals
ornamental table vessel made
in 1503 by an unidentified Renaissance, Baroque, Enlightenment
goldsmith from Nuremberg. Non-exhibition space



264-265_EW_Germany.indd 265 09/10/17 1:00 pm

266  SOUTHERN GERM AN Y BA V ARIA  267

u Street-by-Street: Rothenburg ob der Tauber VISITORS’ CHECKLIST

If you want to sample the atmosphere of the Middle Ages, Practical Information
visit Rothenburg on the river Tauber, whose origins go back to Road Map C6. * 12,000.
n Marktplatz 2 (09861-404 800).
the 12th century. Rothenburg was granted the status of a free _ Meistertrunk (around
town within the Holy Roman Empire in 1274 but its major Whitsun), Reichsstadt-Festtage
growth took place in the 15th century. During the Thirty Years’ (first weekend in Sep),
War (1618–48) the town, which fought on the Protestant side, View from Burggarten Weihnachtsmarkt (Dec).
was captured by the Emperor’s army. Little has changed since The castle garden (Burggarten) is Topplerschlösschen:
Tel (09861) 73 58. Open 1–4pm
that time and the city walls still surround Gothic cathedrals reached through Burgtor, the tallest of Fri–Sun. Closed Nov. &
and an array of gabled houses. the town’s gates. The garden, which
during the Middle Ages was the site of Transport
£
the Hohenstaufen family castle,
provides a magnificent view over
the town and the river valley.
H E U G A S S E
H E U G A S S E


Reichsstadtmuseum
The former Dominican abbey now
houses a museum devoted to the town’s H E R R N G A S S E
history. The abbey kitchen – the oldest
surviving kitchen in Germany – is also
open to visitors.
M ARK T–
PL ATZ Galgentor
Galgentor, an old
execution place, is also
known as Würzburger
Tor, since it is the gate
H A F E N G A S S
leading to Würzburg.
H A F E N G A S S E E
E
S
S
E A
R G
E D
B E R Ő D E R G A S S E
O M I
H
C
Franziskanerkirche S
In this Gothic church is a retable depicting
The Stigmatization of St Francis, believed to be
an early work by Tilman Riemenschneider.
Rödertor
The best preserved segments of the old city
. St Jakobs Kirche walls are around the Rödertor gate, which
In the Gothic church of dates from the late 14th century.
St Jakob (built between
1311 and 1485) is the
superb Zwölfbotenaltar
by Friedrich Herlin.
. Mittelalterliches
Kriminalmuseum . Rathaus
Many blood-curdling exhibits are The town hall consists of the
on display at this museum, which Key surviving Gothic section with a
houses a collection of instruments tower, and the later Renaissance
of torture and punishment. Suggested route structure with Baroque arcades.
For hotels and restaurants in this area see pp496–7 and pp519–22


266-267_EW_Germany.indd 266 09/10/17 1:00 pm 266-267_EW_Germany.indd 267 09/10/17 1:00 pm
Eyewitness Travel LAYERS PRINTED:
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Date 6th February2013
Size 125mm x 217mm

BA V ARIA  267


VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
Practical Information
Road Map C6. * 12,000.
n Marktplatz 2 (09861-404 800).
_ Meistertrunk (around
Whitsun), Reichsstadt-Festtage
(first weekend in Sep),
Weihnachtsmarkt (Dec).
View from Burggarten Topplerschlösschen:
The castle garden (Burggarten) is Tel (09861) 73 58. Open 1–4pm
reached through Burgtor, the tallest of Fri–Sun. Closed Nov. &
the town’s gates. The garden, which
during the Middle Ages was the site of Transport
£
the Hohenstaufen family castle,
provides a magnificent view over
the town and the river valley.
H E U G A S S E











Galgentor
Galgentor, an old
execution place, is also
known as Würzburger
Tor, since it is the gate
H A F E N G A S S E
leading to Würzburg.





R Ő D E R G A S S E



Rödertor
The best preserved segments of the old city
walls are around the Rödertor gate, which
dates from the late 14th century.









. Rathaus
The town hall consists of the
surviving Gothic section with a
Key
tower, and the later Renaissance
Suggested route structure with Baroque arcades.



266-267_EW_Germany.indd 267 09/10/17 1:00 pm

268  SOUTHERN GERM AN Y BA V ARIA  269

i Andechs an important had tired of city life. d Ingolstadt
commercial and They were known as
Road map D7. n Andechser Straße Road map D6. * 130, 000. £
16 (08152-932 50). cultural centre. Adolf Malschule Neu-Dachau. n Rathausplatz 2 (0841-305 30 30).
Hitler wrote Mein Even earlier, however,
The village of Andechs, at the Kampf here, while the beauty of the The river Danube flows
summit of the 700-m (2,300-ft) serving a prison term surrounding through this former seat of
high Holy Mountain of the same for his unsuccessful countryside had the Wittelsbach family and the
name, is not only the destination coup attempt been discovered by town features many important
of pilgrimages to the local in Munich. the impressionist historic buildings dating from
church, but also of many less At the heart of painter Max the Middle Ages and the
spiritual trips to the Bräustüberl, Landsberg is the Liebermann (1847– Renaissance and Baroque
where visitors can refresh Hauptplatz with its 1935). The Dachauer periods. Among the most
themselves with a glass or two Baroque town hall Gemäldegalerie A beach beside the Danube is overlooked by the Neues Schloß in Ingolstadt outstanding architecture is
of the excellent beer brewed by and the intricately contains works of art the Church of the Virgin Mary,
local monks. carved 14th-century Relief from the church inspired by local and 18th centuries and includes Freising. Its history is closely a triple-nave hall structure
The present triple-nave Gothic tower, Schmalztor. façade in Landsberg scenery, including three palaces. The modest Altes connected with St Korbinian, with circular pillars, chapels
hall-church was built in 1420–25. In Ludwigstraße is one by Liebermann. Schloß was built in 1623 for who founded the bishopric here and choir with an ambulatory.
Its Rococo interior dates from the late-Gothic parish church, Prince Wilhelm V. Now it houses in the early 8th century. Inside is the original Gothic-
1755. The lower tier of the main Stadtpfarrkirche Mariä E Dachauer Gemäldegalerie an exhibition of religious folk art. Korbinian died around AD 725 Renaissance main altar dating
altar contains the famous Himmelfahrt, whose Baroque- Konrad-Adenauer-Straße 3. Tel (08131) Schloß Lustheim is a small, and his remains still lie in the from 1572.
Miraculous Statue of the Mother style interior features a statue of 56 750. Open 11am–5pm Tue–Fri, Baroque, hermitage-type palace, crypt of the Dom – the Another notable building is
of God (1468), while the upper the Madonna and Child by Hans 1–5pm Sat & Sun. & built in 1684–87 by Enrico Zucalli Cathedral Church of the Birth of the Neues Schloß, which was,
tier features the Immaculata by Multscher. Bayertor, the original + Schloß Dachau for the Elector Max Emanuel. It the Virgin Mary and St Korbinian built between the 15th and
Hans Degler (1609). On selected town gate, is in the eastern part Schlossstraße 2. Tel (08131) 879 23. has beautiful interiors, stunning (1159–1205). This is a five-nave 18th centuries and features
feast days, holy relics are of the old town. Open Apr–Sep: 9am–6pm Tue–Sun; frescoes and a magnificent basilica, without transept, with stately rooms and a Gothic
displayed on the altar gallery. The town’s Neues Stadt­ Oct–Mar: 10am–4pm Tue–Sun. Closed collection of Meissen porcelain, an elongated choir and a chapel. It now houses the
museum is a useful source of 1 Jan; Shrove Tue; 24, 25 & 31 Dec. & which is displayed in the massive twin-tower western Bayerisches Armeemuseum.
information on local history. P KZ­Gedenkstätte Dachau Museum Meißener Porzellan. façade. Its interior was A true gem of Bavarian
Alte Römerstraße 75. Tel (08131) 66 The newest building is the remodelled in Baroque style by architecture is the Church of
E Neues Stadtmuseum 99 70. Open 9am–5pm daily. Neues Schloß, designed by the Asam brothers, in 1724–25. St Maria Victoria, the work of
Von-Helfenstein-Gasse 426. Tel (08191) Closed 24 Dec. Enrico Zucalli. Work began in The four-nave Romanesque Cosmas Damian Asam.
12 83 60. Open 2–5pm Tue–Sun, 1701 but was not completed crypt features a famous column, The Deutsches
11am–5pm Sat & Sun. & until the second half of the which is decorated with Medizinhistorisches Museum
18th century. Despite wartime carvings of fantastic animals exhibits medical instruments
a Schleißheim damage, it retains many original (Bestiensäule). Nearby is the and has a beautiful formal
p Dachau features. It now houses exhibits Diözesanmuseum, whose vast garden where medicinal plants
Road map D6. Oberschleißheim.
Road map D6. * 35,000. £ Tel (089) 375 589 58. belonging to the Bavarian ecclesiastical collection includes are grown.
n Konrad-Adenauer-Straße 1 State Museum. two paintings by Rubens. E Bayerisches Armeemuseum
(08131-75286 or 75287). Schleißheim is situated barely At the southwestern end of
14 km (9 miles) from Munich, + Altes Schloß the old town is a former Neues Schloß, Paradeplatz 4. Tel (0841)
For most people the name making it within easy reach for Tel (089) 315 87 20. Open as Neues monastery, Weihenstephan, 937 70. Open 9am–5:30pm Tue–Fri,
Ammersee near the Holy Mountain Dachau is inextricably linked an afternoon visit to its Baroque Schloß. & home to the world’s longest- 10am–5:30pm Sat & Sun. &
of Andechs with the concentration camp palace and park. + Neues Schloß established brewery and a ∑ armeemuseum.de
that was built here by the Nazis Surrounded by canals and Tel (089) 315 87 20. Open Apr–Sep: botanical garden. E Deutsches Medizin­
in 1933. Since 1965, the whole now somewhat neglected, the 9am–6pm Tue–Sun; Oct–Mar: 10am– historisches Museum
o Landsberg site has been designated as a park was established in the 17th 4pm Tue–Sun. Closed Mon. & E Diözesanmuseum Anatomiestraße 18–20. Tel (0841)
am Lech memorial, KZ­Gedenkstätte + Schloß Lustheim Domberg 21. Tel (08161) 487 90. 305 28 60. Open 10am– 5pm
Dachau, to over 40,000 prisoners Closed due to reopen 2017–18. & Tue–Sun. &
Road map D7. * 24,000. £ who died there, with a perma- Tel (089) 315 87 20. Open Apr–Sep:
n Hauptplatz 152 (08191-12 82 46). nent exhibition in the former 9am–6pm Tue–Sun; Oct–Mar:
10am–4pm Tue–Sun. &
domestic quarters of the camp.
The history of Landsberg goes Dachau is a beautiful town Museum Meißener Porzellan
back to 1160 when Henry the with many historic buildings. Tel (089) 315 87 242. Open Apr–Sep:
Lion built his castle here, on the On the southwestern edge of 9am–6pm Tue–Sun; Oct–Mar:
right bank of the river Lech. the old town stands Schloß 10am–4pm Tue–Sun.
During the 13th century, the Dachau, summer residence of
surrounding settlement grew the Wittelsbachs. The palace
into a town, which soon that stands here today was s Freising
became a major trading centre. created in the 18th century from Road map D6. * 40,000. £
Religious conflicts, culminating the western wing of an earlier n Marienplatz 7 (08161-544 41 11).
in the Thirty Years’ War, put an castle, the work of Joseph Effner.
end to the town’s development In the early 19th century the Situated on the banks of the
but, in the late 17th century, area surrounding the castle Baroque façade of the Wittelsbach river Isar, just 20 minutes by train
the town once again became housed a colony of artists who palace, Schloß Dachau from Munich, is the old town of Striking Baroque interior of the Church of St Maria Victoria, Ingolstadt
For hotels and restaurants in this area see pp496–7 and pp519–22


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BA V ARIA  269


d Ingolstadt
Road map D6. * 130, 000. £
n Rathausplatz 2 (0841-305 30 30).
The river Danube flows
through this former seat of
the Wittelsbach family and the
town features many important
historic buildings dating from
the Middle Ages and the
Renaissance and Baroque
periods. Among the most
A beach beside the Danube is overlooked by the Neues Schloß in Ingolstadt outstanding architecture is
the Church of the Virgin Mary,
and 18th centuries and includes Freising. Its history is closely a triple-nave hall structure
three palaces. The modest Altes connected with St Korbinian, with circular pillars, chapels
Schloß was built in 1623 for who founded the bishopric here and choir with an ambulatory.
Prince Wilhelm V. Now it houses in the early 8th century. Inside is the original Gothic-
an exhibition of religious folk art. Korbinian died around AD 725 Renaissance main altar dating
Schloß Lustheim is a small, and his remains still lie in the from 1572.
Baroque, hermitage-type palace, crypt of the Dom – the Another notable building is
built in 1684–87 by Enrico Zucalli Cathedral Church of the Birth of the Neues Schloß, which was,
for the Elector Max Emanuel. It the Virgin Mary and St Korbinian built between the 15th and
has beautiful interiors, stunning (1159–1205). This is a five-nave 18th centuries and features
frescoes and a magnificent basilica, without transept, with stately rooms and a Gothic
collection of Meissen porcelain, an elongated choir and a chapel. It now houses the
which is displayed in the massive twin-tower western Bayerisches Armeemuseum.
Museum Meißener Porzellan. façade. Its interior was A true gem of Bavarian
The newest building is the remodelled in Baroque style by architecture is the Church of
Neues Schloß, designed by the Asam brothers, in 1724–25. St Maria Victoria, the work of
Enrico Zucalli. Work began in The four-nave Romanesque Cosmas Damian Asam.
1701 but was not completed crypt features a famous column, The Deutsches
until the second half of the which is decorated with Medizinhistorisches Museum
18th century. Despite wartime carvings of fantastic animals exhibits medical instruments
damage, it retains many original (Bestiensäule). Nearby is the and has a beautiful formal
features. It now houses exhibits Diözesanmuseum, whose vast garden where medicinal plants
belonging to the Bavarian ecclesiastical collection includes are grown.
State Museum. two paintings by Rubens.
At the southwestern end of E Bayerisches Armeemuseum
+ Altes Schloß the old town is a former Neues Schloß, Paradeplatz 4. Tel (0841)
Tel (089) 315 87 20. Open as Neues monastery, Weihenstephan, 937 70. Open 9am–5:30pm Tue–Fri,
Schloß. & home to the world’s longest- 10am–5:30pm Sat & Sun. &
+ Neues Schloß established brewery and a ∑ armeemuseum.de
Tel (089) 315 87 20. Open Apr–Sep: botanical garden. E Deutsches Medizin­
9am–6pm Tue–Sun; Oct–Mar: 10am– historisches Museum
4pm Tue–Sun. Closed Mon. & E Diözesanmuseum Anatomiestraße 18–20. Tel (0841)
Domberg 21. Tel (08161) 487 90. 305 28 60. Open 10am– 5pm
+ Schloß Lustheim Closed due to reopen 2017–18. & Tue–Sun. &
Tel (089) 315 87 20. Open Apr–Sep:
9am–6pm Tue–Sun; Oct–Mar:
10am–4pm Tue–Sun. &
Museum Meißener Porzellan
Tel (089) 315 87 242. Open Apr–Sep:
9am–6pm Tue–Sun; Oct–Mar:
10am–4pm Tue–Sun.

s Freising
Road map D6. * 40,000. £
n Marienplatz 7 (08161-544 41 11).
Situated on the banks of the
river Isar, just 20 minutes by train
from Munich, is the old town of Striking Baroque interior of the Church of St Maria Victoria, Ingolstadt




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270  SOUTHERN GERM AN Y BA V ARIA  271


town and the main centre of situated 14 km (9 miles) to the There is also an interesting small (around 1500). Overlooking the
power of the Dukes of Lower west. Its early 13th-century church, the Steinfelskirche Danube is a 14th–15th-century
Bavaria. In 1475 the town was Church of St Castulus features a (around 1700) inside a natural castle, formerly a ducal
the scene of a lavish medieval 14-m (46-ft) high Marian altar by rock cave. In Arnstorf, 30 km (19 residence. The Agnes-Bernauer
wedding, when Duke Georg of Hans Leinberger (1514). miles) to the east, is one of the Festival, held every four years,
the House of Wittelsbach few remaining Bavarian castles takes place in the courtyard of
married the Polish Princess + Burg Trausnitz & Kunst- on water. Known as the Oberes the castle. The Gäuboden-
Jadwiga. Since 1903 the town und Wunderkammer Schloß, the castle was probably volksfest is the second largest
has held regular re-enactments Tel (0871) 92 41 10. Open Apr–Sep: built in the 15th century and folk festival in Bavaria after the
of the wedding feast 9am–6pm daily; Oct–Mar: 10am–4pm. remodelled during the 17th and Munich Oktoberfest. The
(Landshuter Fürstenhochzeit). & ∑ burg-trausnitz.de 18th centuries. Gäuboden museum has a
Landshut has preserved its + Stadtresidenz magnificent collection of
medieval urban layout, with two Altstadt 79. Tel (0871) 25 142. Roman artifacts.
wide parallel streets, Altstadt Open Apr–Sep: 9am–6pm Tue–Sun; j Straubing
Arcaded courtyard of Neuburg Castle and Neustadt, with clusters of Oct–Mar: 10am–4pm Tue–Sun. Road map E6. * 45,000. £ Environs
historic 15th–16th century 8 obligatory. & In the tiny village of Aufhausen,
f Neuburg an reformation Marian church. buildings. Opposite the town n Theresienplatz 2 (09421- 21 km (12 miles) to the west, is
94460199).
der Donau The triple-nave hall-structure hall in Alstadt is the _ Agnes-Bernauer-Festspiel (Jul, the beautiful late-Baroque
has an exquisite interior decor- Stadtresidenz, a town house every four years, next in 2019), pilgrimage church of Maria
Road map D6. * 25,000. £ n ated in gold, white and grey. modelled on the Palazzo del Tè Gäubodenvolksfest (Aug). Schnee. Built by Johann Michael
Ottheinrichplatz 118 (08431-552 40). Among many old buildings in Mantua. Sometimes known Fischer in 1736–51, it includes
that survive in the town centre as the “Italian House”, this was This market town enjoys a magnificent wall paintings by
Perched on a promontory are the Graf-Veri-Haus and the the first Renaissance palace to picturesque setting on the river the Asam brothers and a statue
overlooking the river Danube, Baron-von-Hartman-Haus in be built in Germany. Danube. The 600-m (1,970-ft) of the Madonna. Commissioned
Neuburg is one of Bavaria’s Herrenstraße. To the east of The vast brick church of St long market square is arranged by Duke Wilhelm V of Bavaria,
loveliest towns. During the town stands the Grünau Martin (1385–1500) is a triple- into two sections, Theresien platz the Gnadenmadonna is
Middle Ages, it changed hands Castle (Jagdschloß), built for nave, narrow hall-church and Ludwigplatz, and is part of believed to pardon sins.
frequently but was Ottheinrich in 1530–55. featuring a presbytery, network the former trade route that led to In Oberalteich, some 10 km
eventually ruled by vaults (1459) and the tallest Prague. The area is lined with (6 miles) to the east, is the
Ottheinrich the Environs church tower in Bavaria. buildings in Baroque, Neo- beautiful church of St Peter and
Magnanimous, 18 km (11 miles) Landshut is dominated by Interior of St George’s Chapel in Classical and Secession styles. St Paul built in the early 17th
under whom the to the south, the fortified 13th–16th century Burg Trausnitz At the centre of the market century for the Benedictine
town grew and Schroben hausen Burg Trausnitz, featuring a square stands the landmark order. Inside, an unusual hanging
prospered on an is the birth place of medieval tower, a Renaissance h Dingolfing 14th-century municipal tower, staircase leads to the galleries,
unprecedented scale. the painter Franz palace (1568–78) and the which offers a splendid view while the vestibule is decorated
He was the founder von Lenbach, who Kunst- und Wunderkammer Road map E6. * 15,400. n Im over the towns of the Bavarian with stucco ornaments,
of the castle, built was born in 1836. (“room of arts and wonder”), Bruckstadel, Fischerei 9 Forest. At Ludwigplatz 23 is the depicting bird motifs.
between 1534 and 1665, A museum in Ulrich- a branch of the Bayerisches (08731) 32 71 00. “Lion’s Pharmacy”, where the In Windberg, 22 km (14 miles)
whose massive round Heraldic crest on Peisser-Gasse is devoted Nationalmuseum (see p223). famous Biedermeier painter east of Oberalteich, is a
towers still dominate Neuberg Castle to his life and work. The main tourist attraction in Karl Spitzweg worked as an Romanesque Marian church
the town. Its earliest While there, it is worth Environs this small town on the banks of apprentice in 1828–30. whose main portal (around
part is the east wing. The visiting St Jacob’s Church, to From Landshut, it is worth the river Isar is its Gothic castle. Turning from Theresienplatz 1220) features an image of the
courtyard, which is surrounded see the fine 15th-century wall taking a trip to Moosburg, Built in the 15th century by the into Seminargasse or Jakobs- Madonna in the tympanum.
by arcades, features beautiful painting there. Bavarian dukes, this vast edifice gasse, you will reach the
frescoes by Hans Schroer. In now houses the Regional monumental brick structure of E Gäubodenmuseum
the tower is a staircase adorned E Schloßmuseum Neuburg Museum. It is also worth taking the parish church of St Jakob Fraunhoferstraße. Tel (09421) 974 110.
with paintings. The castle Residenzstraße 2. Tel (08431) 64 430. a stroll to see Pfarrkirche St (1400–1590). This triple-nave hall- Open 10am–4pm Tue–Sun. &
chapel, completed in 1543, Open Apr–Sep: 9am–6pm Tue–Sun; Johannes, a late-Gothic brick church, crowned with a network ∑ gaeubodenmuseum.de
is one of the oldest, purpose- Oct–Mar: 10am–4pm Tue–Sun. & building dating from the late vault, retains many
built Protestant churches ∑ schloesser.bayern.de 15th century. Although what original features, including
in Germany. remains of its furnishings are stained-glass windows in
In Amalienstraße, leading merely the poor remnants of its the chapels of Maria-Hilf-
down towards the town, stands g Landshut former glory, nevertheless the Kapelle (1420) and St
the former Jesuits’ College and Road map E6. * 57,000. £ church is still considered one of Bartholomew. The
the Court Church (Hofkirche). n Altstadt 315 (0871-92 20 50). the most beautiful Gothic so-called Moses’ Window
Work on the church began in _ Fürstenhochzeit (every 4 years, buildings in Bavaria. in the Chapel of St Joseph
the late 16th century and was next in 2021), Hofmusiktage (every 2 was made in 1490 in
completed in 1627. It was years, next in 2018), Frühjahrsdult Environs Nuremberg, based on a
intended to be a Protestant (Apr–May), Bartlmädult (Aug), In Landau an der Isar, situated sketch provided by
church, but the ruling family Haferlmarkt (Sep). 13 km (8 miles) to the east of Wilhelm Playdenwurff. In
converted back to Catholicism Dingolfing, stands the the Cobbler’s Chapel
during its construction and it The earliest records of Landshut picturesque Baroque church of (Schusterkapelle) hangs a
was taken over by the Jesuits date from 1150. One hundred Stained-glass window in Landshut Mariä Himmelfahrt, dating from painting of Madonna and
who turned it into a counter- years later this was already a depicting Duke Georg and Jadwiga the first half of the 18th century. Child, by Hans Holbein Main altar in Ursulinenkirche, Straubing
For hotels and restaurants in this area see pp496–7 and pp519–22



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BA V ARIA  271


situated 14 km (9 miles) to the There is also an interesting small (around 1500). Overlooking the
west. Its early 13th-century church, the Steinfelskirche Danube is a 14th–15th-century
Church of St Castulus features a (around 1700) inside a natural castle, formerly a ducal
14-m (46-ft) high Marian altar by rock cave. In Arnstorf, 30 km (19 residence. The Agnes-Bernauer
Hans Leinberger (1514). miles) to the east, is one of the Festival, held every four years,
few remaining Bavarian castles takes place in the courtyard of
+ Burg Trausnitz & Kunst- on water. Known as the Oberes the castle. The Gäuboden-
und Wunderkammer Schloß, the castle was probably volksfest is the second largest
Tel (0871) 92 41 10. Open Apr–Sep: built in the 15th century and folk festival in Bavaria after the
9am–6pm daily; Oct–Mar: 10am–4pm. remodelled during the 17th and Munich Oktoberfest. The
& ∑ burg-trausnitz.de 18th centuries. Gäuboden museum has a
+ Stadtresidenz magnificent collection of
Altstadt 79. Tel (0871) 25 142. Roman artifacts.
Open Apr–Sep: 9am–6pm Tue–Sun; j Straubing
Oct–Mar: 10am–4pm Tue–Sun. Environs
8 obligatory. & Road map E6. * 45,000. £ In the tiny village of Aufhausen,
n Theresienplatz 2 (09421-
94460199). 21 km (12 miles) to the west, is
_ Agnes-Bernauer-Festspiel (Jul, the beautiful late-Baroque
every four years, next in 2019), pilgrimage church of Maria
Gäubodenvolksfest (Aug). Schnee. Built by Johann Michael
Fischer in 1736–51, it includes
This market town enjoys a magnificent wall paintings by
picturesque setting on the river the Asam brothers and a statue
Danube. The 600-m (1,970-ft) of the Madonna. Commissioned
long market square is arranged by Duke Wilhelm V of Bavaria,
into two sections, Theresien platz the Gnadenmadonna is
and Ludwigplatz, and is part of believed to pardon sins.
the former trade route that led to In Oberalteich, some 10 km
Prague. The area is lined with (6 miles) to the east, is the
buildings in Baroque, Neo- beautiful church of St Peter and
Interior of St George’s Chapel in Classical and Secession styles. St Paul built in the early 17th
Burg Trausnitz At the centre of the market century for the Benedictine
square stands the landmark order. Inside, an unusual hanging
h Dingolfing 14th-century municipal tower, staircase leads to the galleries,
while the vestibule is decorated
which offers a splendid view
Road map E6. * 15,400. n Im over the towns of the Bavarian with stucco ornaments,
Bruckstadel, Fischerei 9 Forest. At Ludwigplatz 23 is the depicting bird motifs.
(08731) 32 71 00. “Lion’s Pharmacy”, where the In Windberg, 22 km (14 miles)
famous Biedermeier painter east of Oberalteich, is a
The main tourist attraction in Karl Spitzweg worked as an Romanesque Marian church
this small town on the banks of apprentice in 1828–30. whose main portal (around
the river Isar is its Gothic castle. Turning from Theresienplatz 1220) features an image of the
Built in the 15th century by the into Seminargasse or Jakobs- Madonna in the tympanum.
Bavarian dukes, this vast edifice gasse, you will reach the
now houses the Regional monumental brick structure of E Gäubodenmuseum
Museum. It is also worth taking the parish church of St Jakob Fraunhoferstraße. Tel (09421) 974 110.
a stroll to see Pfarrkirche St (1400–1590). This triple-nave hall- Open 10am–4pm Tue–Sun. &
Johannes, a late-Gothic brick church, crowned with a network ∑ gaeubodenmuseum.de
building dating from the late vault, retains many
15th century. Although what original features, including
remains of its furnishings are stained-glass windows in
merely the poor remnants of its the chapels of Maria-Hilf-
former glory, nevertheless the Kapelle (1420) and St
church is still considered one of Bartholomew. The
the most beautiful Gothic so-called Moses’ Window
buildings in Bavaria. in the Chapel of St Joseph
was made in 1490 in
Environs Nuremberg, based on a
In Landau an der Isar, situated sketch provided by
13 km (8 miles) to the east of Wilhelm Playdenwurff. In
Dingolfing, stands the the Cobbler’s Chapel
picturesque Baroque church of (Schusterkapelle) hangs a
Mariä Himmelfahrt, dating from painting of Madonna and
the first half of the 18th century. Child, by Hans Holbein Main altar in Ursulinenkirche, Straubing




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272  SOUTHERN GERM AN Y BA V ARIA  273

k Regensburg (Ratisbon) museum has a collection of into the palace complex of the VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
ecclesiastical vestments. ducal family von Thurn und
Regensburg was once a Celtic settlement and later a campsite Taxis. These include a Gothic Practical Information
of the Roman legions. The outline of the Roman camp is still P Alte Kapelle cloister dating from the Road map D6. * 142,000.
n Altes Rathaus (0941 507 44
visible around St Peter’s Cathedral. In the early 6th century, Alter Kornmarkt. 12th–14th centuries, a library 10). _ Frühjahrsdult (Whitsun),
Regensburg was the seat of the Agilolfa ruling family, and in The Old Chapel is really a Marian with magnificent frescoes by Bach-Woche (Jun), Bayerisches
collegiate church. It stands on
Cosmas Damian Asam and
AD 739, a monk named Boniface established a bishopric here. the foundations of an older, the burial chapel. In 1998, the Jazz-Weekend (Jul), Herbstdult
From AD 843, Regensburg was the seat of the Eastern Frankish early Romanesque chapel Bavarian State Museum opened a (Aug–Sep), Christkindlmarkt &
ruler, Ludwig the German. From 1245 it was a free town of dating from the Carolingian branch here, the Schatzkammer, Domspatzen concerts (Dec).
∑ regensburg.de
the Holy Roman Empire and throughout the Middle Ages period. The building has been which has valuable collections
remained South Germany’s fastest growing commercial and remodelled several times and of decorative art.
contains some beautiful Rococo
cultural centre. The city centre is a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
stuccoes by Anton Landes. P Baumburger Turm
19th-century spires on the Gothic Watmarkt.
+ SchloßThurn und Taxis St Peter’s Cathedral Regensburg has many unique
Emmeramsplatz 5. Tel (0941) 504 82 ancestral palaces dating from
42. Open daily. Closed 1–12 Jan. Sights at a Glance the 14th–15th centuries, with
8 Treasury: Apr–Oct: 11am–5pm 1 Steinerne Brücke high towers modelled on
Mon–Fri, 10am–5pm Sat & Sun; Nov– 2 Wurstküche Northern Italian architecture.
Mar: weekends and hols only, Some 20 of the original 60
10am–5pm. & 3 Altes Rathaus towers have survived. One
4 Dom St Peter
In the south end of the town 5 Alte Kapelle of the most beautiful is the
you will find the buildings and 6 Schloß Thurn und Taxis residential tower, Baumburger
churches of the former St Turm. Nearby, at Watmarkt 5,
Emmeram Abbey, which have 7 Baumburger Turm stands the equally beautiful Enchanting Rococo interior of Alte Kapelle
Picturesque Steinere Brücke leading to the old town of Regensburg been tastefully incorporated Goliathhaus, where Oskar
Schindler lived for a time in 1945. A commemorative plaque
P Steinerne Brücke In Rathausplatz stands an old has been placed at the rear of
B A D S T R A S S
B A D S T R A S S E E
An outstanding example of 15th-century town hall with a the building.
medieval engineering, this 13th-century tower. It contains a EisernerEiserner
StegSteg
310-m (1,000-ft) long bridge splendid, richly decorated hall –
over the Danube was built in Reichssaal – where the SteinerneSteinerne WÖHRDSTR. E Museum der Bayerischen
WÖHRDSTR.
BrückeBrücke
1135–46. It provides the best Perpetual Imperial Diet (the K E P L E R S T R A S S Do na Geschichte
WEISSGERBERGRABEN
Do nau u
K E P L E R S T R A S S E E
panoramic view of Regensburg. first parliament of the Holy Kepler-Kepler- BrückentorBrückentor WurstkücheWurstküche EiserneEiserne Donaumarkt 1. Open Due to open
Near the bridge gate, Brückentor, Roman Empire) sat between GedächtnishausGedächtnishaus GOLDENE-BÄREN-STR. BrückeBrücke in 2018.
GOLDENE-BÄREN-STR.
stands an enormous salt ware- 1663 and 1806. Benches in the WEISSGERBERGRABEN THUNDORFER STRASS Designed by the Wörner Traxler
THUNDORFER STRASSE E
house topped with a vast five- chamber were coloured to Thon-Dittmer-Thon-Dittmer- AltesAltes Richer architect trio, this ultra-
RathausRathaus
storey roof. indicate who could sit where: PalaisPalais RATHAUS-RATHAUS- GoliathhausGoliathhaus U N TER D E N S C HW IB B ÖG EN DONAU-DONAU- modern museum on the banks
MARKTMARKT
Haus zumHaus zum
U N TER D E N S C HW IB B ÖG EN
for example, red benches for Goldenen KreuzGoldenen Kreuz PLATZPLATZ Museum derMuseum der of the Donau river illustrates the
BayerischenBayerischen
L U D W I G S T R A S S
P Wurstküche Electors. The adjoining new ARNULFS-ARNULFS- L U D W I G S T R A S S E E HAID-HAID- BaumburgerBaumburger Domschatz-Domschatz- GeschichteGeschichte timeline of Bavarian history and
museummuseum
50 m50 m
PLATZPLATZ
(Wurstkuchle) town hall dates from the late PLATZPLATZ TurmTurm DomDom O S T E N G A S S E the events that made it what it is
St PeterSt Peter
Thundorferstraße 3. Tel (0941) 46 62 17th–early 18th century. R O T E-HA H NE N -GASSE WAHLENSTRASSE WAHLENSTRASSE Goldener Goldener DOMPLATZDOMPLATZ ALTERALTER today. After a general historical
O S T E N G A S S E
TurmTurm
10. Open 8am–7pm daily. St JakobSt Jakob NEUPFARR-NEUPFARR- HerzogshofHerzogshof KORNMARKTKORNMARKT overview covering the period
KircheKirche
Immediately behind the salt R Dom St Peter BISMARCK-BISMARCK- GESANDTENSTRASS NeupfarrkircheNeupfarrkirche PLATZPLATZ Historisches Historisches between the Roman era and
R O T E-HA H NE N -GASSE
GESANDTENSTRASSE E
warehouse is the famous Domschatzmuseum PLATZPLATZ DreieinigkeitskircheDreieinigkeitskirche Alte KapelleAlte Kapelle MuseumMuseum 1800, the exhibition goes into
Wurstküche (sausage kitchen), Krauterermarkt 3. Tel (0941) 57 645. SCHWARZE- B Ä RE N- S TR ASS D detail with a 3D panorama of the
SCHWARZE- B Ä RE N- S TR ASS E E
which has probably occupied Open 11am–5pm Tue–Sat, noon–5pm Dominikaner-Dominikaner- DACHAU- city of Regensburg during the
PLATZPLATZ
this site since as early as the Sun. Closed Nov. & klosterkloster PFARRERGASSE PFARRERGASSE MALERGASSE MALERGASSE past century and an exploration
12th century and may have Towering above the city, on S C H O T T E N S T R A S S E S C H O T T E N S T R A S S E WEISSBRÄUHAUSG. WEISSBRÄUHAUSG. AM BRIXENER HOF AM BRIXENER HOF of Bavarian politics. Personal
served as a canteen for the the site of the former Roman W A F F N E R G A S S E W A F F N E R G A S S E DR.-WUNDERLE-STR. DR.-WUNDERLE-STR. memories and objects received
builders of the bridge. Its military camp, is the massive OB ERE BA C HG A S S E KÖNIGSSTRASSE from mored than 1,000 Bavarian
KÖNIGSSTRASSE
Regensburger sausages are brick structure of St Peter’s OB ERE BA C HG A S S E OBERMÜNSTER-OBERMÜNSTER- FRÖHLICHE-TÜRKEN -STRASSE E FRÖHLICHE-TÜRKEN -STRASS DACHAU- R . - M A R T I N - L U T H E R - S T R A S S E D R . - M A R T I N - L U T H E R - S T R A
definitely worth trying. Cathedral. Built between EMMERAMS-EMMERAMS- PLATZPLATZ depiction of Bavarian culture.
OBERMÜNSTERSTRASSE
OBERMÜNSTERSTRASSE
1250 and 1525, its imposing PLATZPLATZ GRASGASSE M A X I M I L I A N S T R A S S E M A X I M I L I A N S T R A S S E
P Altes Rathaus western towers were added St. EmmeramSt. Emmeram
GRASGASSE
Rathausplatz. 8 Mon–Sat. only in 1859–69. The master S T . - P E T E R S - W E G FUCHSENGANG
FUCHSENGANG
S T . - P E T E R S - W E G
Reichstagsmuseum. Tel (0941) 507 architect, Ludwig, modelled H E L E N E N S T R A S SE E ERNST-REUTER-ERNST-REUTER-
34 40. 8 Jan & Feb: 10am, 11:30am, his design for the building H E L E N E N S T R A S S PLATZPLATZ
1:30pm, 3pm daily ; Mar, Nov, Dec: on French examples (the Schloss ThurnSchloss Thurn
10am, 11:30am, 1:30pm, 2pm (in Rayonnant style). The stained- und Taxisund Taxis
English), 3pm, 3:30pm daily; (every 30 glass windows of the choir
mins) Apr–Oct: 9:30am–noon, 1:30– date from the early 14th 0 metres 300 A L B E R T S T R A S S Gothic portals of St Emmeram Abbey in
A L B E R T S T R A S S E E
4pm daily (English tours 3pm). & 0 yards 300
century. The Domschatz­ HauptbahnhofHauptbahnhof Schloss Thurn und Taxis
100 m (110 yards)100 m (110 yards)
For hotels and restaurants in this area see pp496–7 and pp519–22 For map symbols see back flap
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BA V ARIA  273


into the palace complex of the VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
ducal family von Thurn und
Taxis. These include a Gothic Practical Information
cloister dating from the Road map D6. * 142,000.
12th–14th centuries, a library n Altes Rathaus (0941 507 44
with magnificent frescoes by 10). _ Frühjahrsdult (Whitsun),
Cosmas Damian Asam and Bach-Woche (Jun), Bayerisches
the burial chapel. In 1998, the Jazz-Weekend (Jul), Herbstdult
Bavarian State Museum opened a (Aug–Sep), Christkindlmarkt &
branch here, the Schatzkammer, Domspatzen concerts (Dec).
∑ regensburg.de
which has valuable collections
of decorative art.
P Baumburger Turm
19th-century spires on the Gothic Watmarkt.
St Peter’s Cathedral Regensburg has many unique
ancestral palaces dating from
Sights at a Glance the 14th–15th centuries, with
1 Steinerne Brücke high towers modelled on
2 Wurstküche Northern Italian architecture.
3 Altes Rathaus Some 20 of the original 60
4 Dom St Peter towers have survived. One
5 Alte Kapelle of the most beautiful is the
6 Schloß Thurn und Taxis residential tower, Baumburger
Turm. Nearby, at Watmarkt 5,
7 Baumburger Turm
stands the equally beautiful Enchanting Rococo interior of Alte Kapelle
Goliathhaus, where Oskar
Schindler lived for a time in 1945. A commemorative plaque
has been placed at the rear of
B A D S T R A S S E
the building.
Eiserner
Steg
Steinerne WÖHRDSTR. E Museum der Bayerischen
Brücke
Geschichte
WEISSGERBERGRABEN Gedächtnishaus Altes Wurstküche Eiserne in 2018.
Donau
K E P L E R S T R A S S E
Donaumarkt 1. Open Due to open
Brückentor
Kepler-
Brücke
GOLDENE-BÄREN-STR.
Designed by the Wörner Traxler
THUNDORFER STRASSE
Richer architect trio, this ultra-
Palais
RATHAUS-
MARKT
Haus zum Thon-Dittmer- Rathaus Goliathhaus U N TER D E N S C HW IB B ÖG EN DONAU- Museum der modern museum on the banks
PLATZ
Goldenen Kreuz Bayerischen of the Donau river illustrates the
ARNULFS- L U D W I G S T R A S S E HAID- Domschatz- Geschichte timeline of Bavarian history and
museum
50 m
PLATZ PLATZ Baumburger Dom O S T E N G A S S E the events that made it what it is
Turm
St Peter
ALTER
Turm
overview covering the period
St Jakob R O T E-HA H NE N -GASSE WAHLENSTRASSE Goldener DOMPLATZ Herzogshof KORNMARKT today. After a general historical
Kirche NEUPFARR-
GESANDTENSTRASSE PLATZ between the Roman era and
BISMARCK- Neupfarrkirche Historisches
PLATZ Dreieinigkeitskirche SCHWARZE- B Ä RE N- S TR ASS E Alte Kapelle DACHAU- Museum 1800, the exhibition goes into
S C H O T T E N S T R A S S E Dominikaner- W A F F N E R G A S S E PFARRERGASSE MALERGASSE WEISSBRÄUHAUSG. KÖNIGSSTRASSE DR.-WUNDERLE-STR. PLATZ city of Regensburg during the
detail with a 3D panorama of the
AM BRIXENER HOF
kloster
past century and an exploration
of Bavarian politics. Personal
memories and objects received
from mored than 1,000 Bavarian
depiction of Bavarian culture.
PLATZ
OBERMÜNSTERSTRASSE
EMMERAMS- OB ERE BA C HG A S S E OBERMÜNSTER- FRÖHLICHE-TÜRKEN -STRASSE M A X I M I L I A N S T R A S S E D R . - M A R T I N - L U T H E R - S T R A S S E citizens, provide an interesting
PLATZ GRASGASSE
St. Emmeram S T . - P E T E R S - W E G FUCHSENGANG
H E L E N E N S T R A S SE ERNST-REUTER-
PLATZ
Schloss Thurn
und Taxis
Gothic portals of St Emmeram Abbey in
A L B E R T S T R A S S E
Schloss Thurn und Taxis
Hauptbahnhof
100 m (110 yards)
For map symbols see back flap
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274  SOUTHERN GERM AN Y BA V ARIA  275


(1,150 yds). Work on the castle x Bayerischer Wald
started in 1253, but most of
the buildings were erected
during the reign of King George The Bavarian forest stretches north to the Danube, between
the Rich and therefore have Regensburg and Passau. It is part of Central Europe’s largest
magnificent, late-Gothic woodland and provides idyllic grounds for a variety of
forms. The king’s wife, Jadwiga
Jagiellon, whom he married in outdoor pursuits. The local rocks contain large quantities of
grand style in Landshut (see quartz, which contributed to the early development of the
p270), was later rejected by him glass industry here. To this day, the region produces some
and she spent her final days in fine, blown-glass artifacts. The region also hosts a number
the fortress of Burghausen. of popular festivals throughout the year.
The castle consists of two
main parts: the main castle,
Winter view of Gnadenkapelle complex, from Altötting with tower, the residential 1 Zwiesel
quarters, the courtyard and In the old glassworks, which 2 Frauenau
l Altötting husband, Charles VI of France. domestic buildings; and the survive to this day, you can watch Along with Zwiesel, this is the
castle approach (Vorburg). workers using blow irons to oldest centre of glass production
Road map E7. * 11,000. E Neue Schatzkammer The residential building has some produce vases, jugs and other in the area. The local museum
n Kapellplatz 2a (08671-50 62 19). and Wallfahrtsmuseum objects made of glass. illustrates the town’s history.
£ _ pilgrimages to Altötting Kapellplatz 4. Tel (08671) 924 2015. fine 15th- and 16th-century
(Whitsun). ∑ altoetting.de paintings. A special door links
Open Feb–Mar: Mon–Sat; Apr–Oct: the Prince’s quarters with the 3 Spiegelau
Altötting is renowned as the daily. Closed Nov–mid-Mar. “internal” Chapel of St Elizabeth. Spiegelau is one
earliest destination of pilgrim- ∑ neueschatzkammer.de Next to the chapel is the mid- of the most
ages to the “Miraculous Statue” 13th-century Dürnitz, which popular starting
of the Virgin Mary (1330). The served originally served as a points for tourists
statue stands in the Wallfahrts- ballroom and banqueting hall. planning hiking
kapelle St Maria, which consists The castle approach consists trips into
of two parts. The central, octag- of five courtyards (Vorhof). In the the mountains.
onal chapel, Gnaden kapelle fourth courtyard is the “external”
(around AD 750) was once the Chapel of St Jadwiga (Aussere
baptist ery. The external chapel Burgkapelle St Hedwig) – the 4 Grafenau
was built in 1494 and the ambu- work of Wolfgang Wiesinger, a The main attractions of this small
latory in 1517. It also houses the Walkway around Gnadenkapelle, in native of Salzburg (1489). This town are its snuff and furniture
so-called “Silver Prince”, repre- Altötting, filled with offerings has numerous original buildings, museums and the old town hall.
sent ing the miracu lously cured including the town hall, which NATIONALPARK
son of the Prince-Elector, Karl was created by combining Cham BAYERISCHER
Albrecht. Many Bavarian royals z Burghausen three burgher houses dating Regen WALD
wished to be buried here. Road map E6. * 19,500. n from the 14th–15th centuries
Nearby is the interesting Stadtplatz 99 (08677-887 140). £ The parish church of St Jakob.
Romanesque-Gothic church of (1353–1513) in Burghausen is
St Philip and St Jacob (1228–30 The very picturesque town of a three-nave basilica.
and 1499–1520). Its Neo-Classical Burghausen is situated on the Deggendorf
interior contains many tomb- river Salzach. Towering over the + Burghausen Castle
stones, while a separate chapel, town, the river and the lake is Tel (08677) 887 140.
Tillykapelle, is the burial place Burghausen Castle, the world’s E Museum
of Johann Tserclaes von Tilly, a longest castle, built on a high Open Apr–Sep: 9am–6pm daily; 0 km Strakonitz
hero of the Thirty Years’ War and ridge stretching for 1,050 m Oct–Mar: 10am–4pm daily. & 8
the Emperor’s general. 0 miles 8
The Schatzkammer (Treasury)
was housed in the former
sacristy, but after Pope Benedict 5 Freyung Passau
XVI turned it into a chapel in The main attraction of
2006 a new Schatzkammer and the town is the Schloß
Wallfahrtsmuseum (Pilgrimage (Castle) Wolfstein, which
Museum) were built. Exhibits now houses a museum Tips For Walkers
include an exquisite example of hunting and fishing. Starting point: Zwiesel.
of French enamel and gold art, 6 Finsterau Key Distance: 82 km (51 miles).
the Goldenes Rössl (Golden Situated close to a vast Suggested route Getting there: train to Frauenau,
Steed; around 1400). Despite artificial lake, Finsterau has an on the Zwiesel-Granau line; or
its name, its theme is the interesting open-air museum Other road Bodenmais, terminus of another
Adoration of the Magi, com- that displays examples of the Scenic route branch line from Zwiesel.
mission ed by Isobel of Bavaria local building trade. Viewpoint
as a New Year gift for her Panoramic view of Burghausen, with its vast castle complex on the hill
For hotels and restaurants in this area see pp496–7 and pp519–22


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Eyewitness Travel LAYERS PRINTED:
Catalogue template “UK” LAYER
(Source v2.3)
Date 6th February 2013
Size 125mm x 217mm

BA V ARIA  275


x Bayerischer Wald

The Bavarian forest stretches north to the Danube, between
Regensburg and Passau. It is part of Central Europe’s largest
woodland and provides idyllic grounds for a variety of
outdoor pursuits. The local rocks contain large quantities of
quartz, which contributed to the early development of the
glass industry here. To this day, the region produces some
fine, blown-glass artifacts. The region also hosts a number
of popular festivals throughout the year.

1 Zwiesel
In the old glassworks, which 2 Frauenau
survive to this day, you can watch Along with Zwiesel, this is the
workers using blow irons to oldest centre of glass production
produce vases, jugs and other in the area. The local museum
objects made of glass. illustrates the town’s history.
3 Spiegelau
Spiegelau is one
of the most
popular starting
points for tourists
planning hiking
trips into
the mountains.


4 Grafenau
The main attractions of this small
town are its snuff and furniture
museums and the old town hall.
NATIONALPARK
BAYERISCHER
Cham Regen WALD




Deggendorf


0 km 8 Strakonitz
0 miles 8

5 Freyung Passau
The main attraction of
the town is the Schloß
(Castle) Wolfstein, which
now houses a museum Tips For Walkers
of hunting and fishing.
Key Starting point: Zwiesel.
6 Finsterau Distance: 82 km (51 miles).
Situated close to a vast Suggested route Getting there: train to Frauenau,
artificial lake, Finsterau has an Other road on the Zwiesel-Granau line; or
interesting open-air museum Bodenmais, terminus of another
that displays examples of the Scenic route branch line from Zwiesel.
local building trade. Viewpoint





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278  SOUTHERN GERM AN Y BA V ARIA  279

c Street-by-Street: Passau Passauer Glasmuseum VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
Opposite the old town hall is
Passau, whose long history goes back to Roman times, lies on a the beautiful patrician Hotel Practical Information
peninsula between the rivers Danube and Inn, near the Austrian Wilder Mann, which now Road map: E6. * 50,000. n
houses the Glasmuseum. The
border. During the second half of the 5th century, St Severinus museum’s vast collection Rathausplatz 3 & Bahnhofstraße
28, Passau (0851 95 59 80). _
established a monastery in Passau as well as several more nearby. includes valuable examples Festival Europäische Wochen
In 739, an Irish monk called Boniface, known as “Germany’s of Bohemian, Austrian and (Jun–Jul) –music and theatre
Apostle”, founded a bishopric here and for many years this was the Bavarian glasswork. . Veste Oberhaus events, plus exhibitions by
largest diocese of the Holy Roman Empire. Large parts of the town This former castle of the European artists; Ilzer Haferlfest
(Jul); Europäisches Jugend-Musik-
were destroyed by fires in 1662 and 1680. Reconstruction was prince-bishops now houses Festival (Oct). ∑ passau.de
the Oberhaus-Museum,
carried out by Italian artists, who gave the town its Baroque, with displays on local and Transport
Rococo and Neo-Classical façades. However, Passau retains a regional history and the £
medieval feel in its narrow alleys and archways. work of local artists.
Deggendorf A N G E R S T R A S S



A N G E R S T R A S S E E


PRINZREGENT
LUITPOLD BRŰCKE
. Dom St Stephan
St Stephan’s Cathedral is a true
masterpiece of Italian Baroque,
built by Italian architect Carlo Passau- SCHROTTGASSE SCHROTTGASSE
Lurago to replace the original Hauptbahnhof GROSSE MESSERGASSE
Gothic structure, which was DOMPLATZ Schaiblingsturm
largely destroyed by fire in the On the bank of the river Inn are
17th century. the remains of Passau’s Gothic
town walls. They include this
tower, built in 1250.
O R T

University
INNK AI


M ARIEN–
. Altes Rathaus BR Ű CKE 0 metres 100
Dating from the 14th–15th 0 yards 100
century, the old town hall
was created by combining
eight patrician houses. The
structure features a Neo-
Gothic tower.


. Wallfahrtskirche
Neue Bischofsresidenz Mariahilf
Built by Domenico High above the banks of
d’Angeli and Antonio the river Inn stands this
Beduzzi in 1713–30, the early-Baroque abbey
Neue Residenz has a complex dating from
pilaster façade with Key 1627–30. It includes a
protruding balconies pretty twin-towered
and roof balustrade. Suggested route pilgrimage church.
The entrance to the harbour Lindau on Lake Constance For hotels and restaurants in this area see pp496–7 and pp519–22



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Eyewitness Travel LAYERS PRINTED:
Starsight template “UK” LAYER
(Source v2.5)
Date 6th February2013
Size 125mm x 217mm

BA V ARIA  279


VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
Practical Information
Road map: E6. * 50,000. n
Rathausplatz 3 & Bahnhofstraße
28, Passau (0851 95 59 80). _
Festival Europäische Wochen
(Jun–Jul) –music and theatre
events, plus exhibitions by
. Veste Oberhaus European artists; Ilzer Haferlfest
This former castle of the (Jul); Europäisches Jugend-Musik-
prince-bishops now houses Festival (Oct). ∑ passau.de
the Oberhaus-Museum,
with displays on local and Transport
regional history and the £
work of local artists.






A N G E R S T R A S S E


PRINZREGENT
LUITPOLD BRŰCKE




Schaiblingsturm
On the bank of the river Inn are
SCHROTTGASSE
the remains of Passau’s Gothic
town walls. They include this
tower, built in 1250.
O R T






0 metres 100
0 yards 100







. Wallfahrtskirche
Mariahilf
High above the banks of
the river Inn stands this
early-Baroque abbey
complex dating from
1627–30. It includes a
Key
pretty twin-towered
Suggested route pilgrimage church.
For hotels and restaurants in this area see pp496–7 and pp519–22


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280  SOUTHERN GERM AN Y BA V ARIA  281

v Berchtesgadener Land Berchtesgaden VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
The capital of the
Berchtesgadener Land is one of the most beautiful regions, region features many Practical Information
historic buildings. The
not just in Germany, but in the whole of Europe. It occupies Schloß, originally an Road map: E7. * 8,500.
the area of the Berchtesgadener Alps whose boundaries are Augustinian priory, n Königsseer Straße 2,
Berchtesgaden (08652-65 65 050).
defined by the river Saalach to the west, the river Salzach to now houses the art
the east, the “Stony Sea” (Steinernes Meer) to the south and, treasures collected Transport
£ Berchtesgaden.
by Crown Prince
to the north, Untersberg, which is 1,972 m (7,500 ft) above Ruprecht. The local
sea level. To the south of Berchtesgaden village lies the salt mine has been a
National Park (Nationalpark Berchtesgaden). source of wealth since
the 16th century.
. Ramsau an der Ache
Set in an enchanting
location in the Ramsau
Valley, this village is a
popular base for visitors to
the area. Spectacular
views of the mountains
can be enjoyed from the Wallfahrtskirche
small parish church. Maria Gern
JJ UNTERS-UNTERS- One of the loveliest
Baroque buildings
BERGBERG
LA TTEN -LA TTEN - in the region, the
pilgrimage church of
G EBIRG EG EBIRG E Maria Gern was built
WinklWinkl in 1709 in this
MariaMaria idyllic location.
Bischofs-Bischofs- GernGern HalleinHallein
wiesenwiesen
REITERREITER
Hintersee
This scenic lake has given its name to A LPEA LPE Berchtes-Berchtes- Key
a picturesque hamlet nearby. A walk gadengaden Major road
around the lake takes about one hour.
Minor road
River
JJ Viewpoint
Kehlsteinhaus RamsauRamsau SchönauSchönau
HINTERSEEHINTERSEE am Königsseeam Königssee
Standing on the summit of Kehlstein, this stone building WimbachklammWimbachklamm
resembling a mountain shelter is known as the Adlerhorst KönigsseeKönigssee 0 km 5
(Eagle’s Nest). It was given to Hitler as a birthday present in JJ JJ 0 miles 5
1939 by one of his closest allies, Martin Bormann, and it
became one of the Führer’s favourite residences. The NA TIONAL -NA TIONAL -
approach to the building is a true engineering masterpiece:
the initial section, the Kehlsteinstraße, is a scenic mountain P ARKP ARK
road, which passes through five tunnels and offers some K ÖNIGSSEEK ÖNIGSSEE
breathtaking views. The final ascent is via a lift. The whole BERCHTESGADE NBERCHTESGADE N
project took 13 months to complete. After the war, the
Eagle’s Nest fell into
the hands of the
Americans, before,
in 1960, it passed into 1
private hands. The O BERSEEO BERSEE
building now houses a KEY
restaurant that is very
popular with tourists, 1 Nationalpark Berchtesgaden,
not only because of its is home to many rare species of
history but also for the plants and animals. You can visit . Königssee
spectacular views that this magnificent national park by Germany’s highest lake, Königssee is the focal point
it provides over part joining organized tours between of Berchtesgadener Land. Lying 600 m (2,000 ft) above
of the Alps. May and October. sea level, it covers an area of 5.5 sq km (2 sq miles) and
reaches a depth of 188 m (616 ft).
For hotels and restaurants in this area see pp496–7 and pp519–22


280-281_EW_Germany.indd 280 09/10/17 1:00 pm 280-281_EW_Germany.indd 281 09/10/17 1:00 pm
Eyewitness Travel LAYERS PRINTED:
Starsight template “UK” LAYER
(Source v2.5)
Date 6th February2013
Size 125mm x 217mm

BA V ARIA  281


Berchtesgaden VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
The capital of the
region features many Practical Information
historic buildings. The Road map: E7. * 8,500.
Schloß, originally an n Königsseer Straße 2,
Augustinian priory, Berchtesgaden (08652-65 65 050).
now houses the art
treasures collected Transport
by Crown Prince £ Berchtesgaden.
Ruprecht. The local
salt mine has been a
source of wealth since
the 16th century.








Wallfahrtskirche
Maria Gern
UNTERS-
J One of the loveliest
Baroque buildings
BERG
LA TTEN - in the region, the
pilgrimage church of
G EBIRG E Maria Gern was built
Winkl in 1709 in this
Maria idyllic location.
Bischofs- Gern Hallein
wiesen
REITER
Berchtes- Key
A LPE gaden
Major road
Minor road
River
J Viewpoint
Ramsau Schönau
HINTERSEE am Königssee
Wimbachklamm
Königssee 0 km
J 5
J 0 miles 5
NA TIONAL -
P ARK
K ÖNIGSSEE
BERCHTESGADE N




O BERSEE



. Königssee
Germany’s highest lake, Königssee is the focal point
of Berchtesgadener Land. Lying 600 m (2,000 ft) above
sea level, it covers an area of 5.5 sq km (2 sq miles) and
reaches a depth of 188 m (616 ft).




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b Touring Chiemsee Seeon Abbey VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
This post-Benedictine
Bavaria’s largest lake, Chiemsee is a real paradise for abbey, surrounded by the Practical Information
waters of Klostersee, was
watersports enthusiasts, with sailors, water-skiers, built in stages during the Road map E7.
n Tourismusverband
swimmers and divers all enjoying the opportunities 11th and 12th centuries. It Chiemsee, Felden 10, Bernau am
it offers. The lake is set amidst magnificent Alpine was remodelled in 1428–33 Chiemsee (08051-965 550).
scenery in the region known as the Chiemgau, by Konrad Pürkel, a master- ∑ chiemsee-alpenland.de
which stretches eastwards from Rosenheim to builder from Burghausen.
the border with Austria along the river Salzach. Fraueninsel
Chiemsee is surrounded by numerous small towns Like its neighbour Herreninsel, this island
and villages and dotted with islands, some of which is rich in art treasures. Its abbey
feature fascinating historic buildings. Excellent (Klosterkirche) was founded in 766
and taken over by Benedictine
land, water and rail transport facilities ensure nuns in the mid-9th century.
trouble-free travel to all destinations in the area. AltenmarktAltenmarkt
ObingObing
SteinStein
SeeonSeeon
HinzingHinzing
TraunreutTraunreut
TruchtlachingTruchtlaching
HalfingHalfing


HARTSEEHARTSEE EggstättEggstätt LambachLambach Castle in the Rock
One of the most interesting
Stock Bad EndorfBad Endorf SondermoningSondermoning curiosities of this region is the
The harbour town of Stock is connected by “Höhlenburg” – a castle carved
narrow-gauge steam railway to the Chiemsee’s LANGBÜRGNER SEELANGBÜRGNER SEE into a rock on the bank of the river
main resort of Prien. The railway, the ChiemingChieming NußdorfNußdorf Traun, some 30 m (98 ft) above
Chiemseebahn, is over one hundred years old. SIMSSEESIMSSEE JJ GstadtGstadt water level. Visits are allowed only
CHIEMSEECHIEMSEE with a guide.
TraunsteinTraunstein
StockStock
PrienPrien
HarrasHarras
GrabenstättGrabenstätt
UrschallingUrschalling
ÜberseeÜbersee
BernauBernau
BergenBergen
Chieming
Chieming lies on the
eastern shore of the
Urschalling lake. Its 6-km (4-mile)
The 12th-century church of JJ long beach is an ideal
St Jakobus features magnificent place for sunbathing
wall paintings dating from the and swimming in the
13th and 14th centuries. waters of the lake.
Herrenchiemsee Palace
In 1873, King Ludwig II 0 km 4
bought Herreninsel, with the
Key 0 miles 4
intention of building a replica
Motorway of the Palace of Versailles
Major road here. Funds ran out and the Chiemsee
project was not completed, Lying at an altitude of 518 m (1,700 ft), the
Minor road
but the magnificent central lake covers an area of 80 sq km (20,000 acres)
River section and park are well with a depth of 70 m (230 ft). Its size makes it
Viewpoint worth visiting. popular with sailing enthusiasts.
For hotels and restaurants in this area see pp496–7 and pp519–22

282-283_EW_Germany.indd 282 09/10/17 1:00 pm 282-283_EW_Germany.indd 283 09/10/17 1:00 pm
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(Source v2.5)
Date 6th February2013
Size 125mm x 217mm

BA V ARIA  283


Seeon Abbey VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
This post-Benedictine
abbey, surrounded by the Practical Information
waters of Klostersee, was Road map E7.
built in stages during the n Tourismusverband
11th and 12th centuries. It Chiemsee, Felden 10, Bernau am
was remodelled in 1428–33 Chiemsee (08051-965 550).
by Konrad Pürkel, a master- ∑ chiemsee-alpenland.de
builder from Burghausen.






Obing Altenmarkt
Stein
Seeon
Hinzing
Traunreut
Truchtlaching
Halfing


HARTSEE Eggstätt Lambach Castle in the Rock
One of the most interesting
Bad Endorf Sondermoning curiosities of this region is the
“Höhlenburg” – a castle carved
LANGBÜRGNER SEE into a rock on the bank of the river
Nußdorf Traun, some 30 m (98 ft) above
Gstadt Chieming
SIMSSEE J water level. Visits are allowed only
CHIEMSEE with a guide.
Traunstein
Stock
Prien
Harras
Grabenstätt
Urschalling
Übersee
Bernau
Bergen
Chieming
Chieming lies on the
eastern shore of the
lake. Its 6-km (4-mile)
J long beach is an ideal
place for sunbathing
and swimming in the
waters of the lake.

0 km 4
0 miles 4
Chiemsee
Lying at an altitude of 518 m (1,700 ft), the
lake covers an area of 80 sq km (20,000 acres)
with a depth of 70 m (230 ft). Its size makes it
popular with sailing enthusiasts.




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284  SOUTHERN GERM AN Y BA V ARIA  285


Bavarians into Jews and Romans . Linderhof VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
from the time of Christ. About
one hundred performances Practical Information
are staged between mid-May In the early 1850s, Linderhof was bought by the Bavarian King Road map D7. Schloß Linderhof.
and mid-October in the Maximilian II. This remote mountain district had great appeal Tel (08822) 920 30. Open Apr–
huge Passionsspielhaus. to the young heir to the throne, Ludwig, later to become the 15 Oct: 9am–6pm daily; 16 Oct–
Among the buildings worth eccentric King Ludwig II. In 1874, work started on remodelling Mar: 10am–4pm daily. &
seeing in Oberammergau are the existing Königshäuschen (royal cottage) in the Neo-Rococo ∑ schlosslinderhof.de
the Rococo church of Saint style. The palace is surrounded by a delightful garden,
Peter and Saint Paul (1735–40)
and the famous Pilatushaus, which is dotted with romantic little buildings, including
with its illusionist painting of Schwanenweiher (Swan Lake), Venusgrotte (Venus grotto)
Colourful Alpine inn, dating from 1612, in Oberammergau Christ before Pilate on the and the Marokkanisches Haus (Moroccan house).
façade. The Oberammergau
n Garmisch- m Oberammergau Museum has a notable Tapestry Room
Partenkirchen Road map D7. * 5,200. n Eugen- collection of wooden cribs. The walls of this room are painted
in a style that is reminiscent of
Road map D7. 27,000. £ n Papst-Straße 9A (08822-922 740). E Oberammergau Museum tapestry work, with depictions
Richard-Strauss-Platz 2 (08821-18 07 _ König-Ludwig-Lauf (Feb); Dorfstraße 8. Tel (08822) 941 36. of pastoral scenes.
00). _ Neujahrs-Springen (1 Jan); Oberammergauer Passionsspiele (May– Open 10am–5pm Tue–Sun.
Hornschlitten-Rennen (6 Jan); Ski Oct, every ten years: next in 2020); Closed Feb, Mar, Nov. &
World Cup Races; Richard-Strauss- König-Ludwig-Feuer (24 Aug). ∑ oberammergaumuseum.de
Tage (Jun). ∑ gapa.de ∑ ammergauer-alpen.de Reception Room Dining Room
Lying in the valley of the river Situated some 20 km (12 miles) , Ettal Although the palace was Designed by Christian Jank, the
intended as a private residence,
Loisach, Garmisch-Parten- north of Garmisch-Partenkirchen, King Ludwig II insisted on the dining room was completed in
kirchen is the best-known resort on the site of a 9th-century Road map D7. * 974. n Ammer- provision of a suitably ornate 1872. It features gilded panelling
in the Bavarian Alps. To say that Welfs’ fort, Oberammergau is gauer Straße 8 (08822-92 36 34) and regal reception room. by Phillip Perron and stuccowork
it offers ideal skiing conditions world famous for its folk art and by Theobald Behler.
would be to state the passion plays. The Thirty About 4 km (2.5 miles) from
obvious. In 1936, it Years’ War (1618–48) Oberammergau is the tiny resort
hosted the Winter and the plague of of Ettal, which is best known for
Olympic Games and, 1632 came close its Benedictine abbey, founded
in 1978, the World to wiping out the by Emperor Ludwig IV of Bavaria.
Skiing Championships. entire population The abbey’s foundation stone
From Garmisch- of the village. Its was laid in 1330, while the Church
Partenkirchen, surviving inhabitants of the Virgin Mary and the
Germany’s highest pledged that if they convent were consecrated in
peak, Zugspitze were saved from 1370. The church building is a
(2964 m/9,720 ft), extinction they Gothic structure but, in 1710–52,
can be reached by would stage forever Josef Enrico Zuccalli and Franz
taking the narrow- more a play about Schmuzer carried out major
gauge railway to Christ’s Passion. remodelling work in the Baroque
Zugspitzblatt and No further deaths style. The church interior is
from there a cable Oriel window in occurred and, to this decorated with rich Rococo
car, which reaches Garmisch-Partenkirchen day, the villagers have stuccowork by Johann Baptist
the summit in a few kept their pledge. and Johann Georg Ubelhör, and
minutes. Garmisch Every ten years, some 2,500 wall paintings by Martin Knoller.
Partenkirchen’s parish church of people take part in the six- The monastery produces fine
St Martin (Alte Pfarrkirche St hour-long spectacle, in which fruit, hay and honey liqueurs,
Martin) is worth a visit. It was built they transform themselves from flavoured brandies and beer.
in the 13th century and extended
in the 15th century and features
some well-preserved Gothic
wall paintings and net vaulting. Mirror Hall
The Werdenfels Museum The design of Linderhof’s
shows how people in this Mirror Hall was based on
region lived in the past, with a the Mirror Room of the
collection of furniture, clothing royal residence in
and room reconstructions. Munich (see pp220–21).
E Werdenfels Museum Terraces
Ludwigstraße 47. Tel (08821) 751 710. Terraces in front of the palace are
Open 10am–5pm Tue–Sun. & adorned with sculptures and
∑ werdenfels-museum.de The Baroque Benedictine abbey in Ettal include a pool with a fountain.
For hotels and restaurants in this area see pp496–7 and pp519–22



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(Source v2.3)
Date 6th February 2013
Size 125mm x 217mm

BA V ARIA  285


. Linderhof VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
Practical Information
In the early 1850s, Linderhof was bought by the Bavarian King Road map D7. Schloß Linderhof.
Maximilian II. This remote mountain district had great appeal Tel (08822) 920 30. Open Apr–
to the young heir to the throne, Ludwig, later to become the 15 Oct: 9am–6pm daily; 16 Oct–
eccentric King Ludwig II. In 1874, work started on remodelling Mar: 10am–4pm daily. &
∑ schlosslinderhof.de
the existing Königshäuschen (royal cottage) in the Neo-Rococo
style. The palace is surrounded by a delightful garden,
which is dotted with romantic little buildings, including
Schwanenweiher (Swan Lake), Venusgrotte (Venus grotto)
and the Marokkanisches Haus (Moroccan house).

Tapestry Room
The walls of this room are painted
in a style that is reminiscent of
tapestry work, with depictions
of pastoral scenes.


Reception Room Dining Room
Although the palace was Designed by Christian Jank, the
intended as a private residence, dining room was completed in
King Ludwig II insisted on the 1872. It features gilded panelling
provision of a suitably ornate by Phillip Perron and stuccowork
and regal reception room. by Theobald Behler.


























Mirror Hall
The design of Linderhof’s
Mirror Hall was based on
the Mirror Room of the
royal residence in
Munich (see pp220–21).
Terraces
Terraces in front of the palace are
adorned with sculptures and
include a pool with a fountain.




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/ Schloß Neuschwanstein VISITORS’ CHECKLIST ! Hohen­
schwangau
Set amidst magnificent mountain scenery high above Practical Information
Forggensee, Alpsee and Schwansee, this fairy-tale castle was Road map D7. Schloß Neusch- Road map D7. * Schwangau 3,818.
n Schwangau, Münchenerstraße 2
built in 1869–86 for the eccentric Bavarian King Ludwig II, to wanstein. Neuschwan steinstraße (08362-819 80). Ticket service:
20. Tel (08362) 93 08 30. Open
plans by the theatre designer Christian Jank. When deciding Apr–15 Oct: 9am–6pm daily; 16 Hohenschwangau Alpseestraße 12
to build this imposing residence, the king was undoubtedly Oct–Mar: 10am–4pm daily. Closed (08362-930 830).
inspired by Wartburg Castle in Thuringia (see pp190–91), 1 Jan & 24, 25, 31 Dec. & 8 7 The skyline of Schwangau is
which he visited in 1867. The pale grey limestone castle, (limited access). 0 - = n dominated by two castles,
Ticket centre in Hohenschwangau.
which draws on a variety of historical styles, is a steep ∑ neuschwanstein.de Schloß Neuschwanstein (left)
. Singers’ Hall
30-minute walk from the nearby village of Hohenschwangau The Sängersaal was and the majestic Schloß
Hohenschwangau. The fortified
and offers spectacular views of the surrounding scenery. modelled on the singing castle that occupied this site
room of the Wartburg in the Middle Ages was remod-
castle in Eisenach. elled in 1538–47 and, in 1567,
it passed into the hands of
the Wittelsbach family. It was
destroyed during the Tyrolean
War but in 1832 the heir to the
throne (later Maximilian II)
. Castle Building ordered the ruins to be rebuilt
Schloß Neuschwanstein is the in Neo-Gothic style. The plans
archetypal fairy-tale castle and were prepared by the painter
has provided the inspiration for Domenico Quaglio; after his
countless toy models, book death, work on the castle was
illustrations and film sets. continued by the architects
Vestibule Georg Friedrich Ziebland and
The walls of the vestibule and Joseph Daniel Ohlmüller.
of other rooms in the castle are Courtyard This four-storey building,
lavishly covered with paintings The heart of the castle was standing on medieval foun-
depicting scenes from old supposed to have been a dations, is flanked by angular
German myths and legends. mighty 90-m (295-ft) high towers. The wall paintings that
tower with a Gothic decorate the rooms of the castle
castle church. It was date from 1835–36. Their icono-
never built, but in 1988 graphic content, which is based
its planned position on old Germanic sagas, is the
was marked in
white stone. work of Moritz von Schwind. A
walk around the castle provides
an excellent opportunity to
study the Wittelsbach family
history and to see the mid-19th
century furnishings. There
are magnificent views of the
surroundings from the castle’s
lovely terraced gardens.
. Throne Room
The gilded interior of the throne + Schloß Hohenschwangau
room reminds one of Byzantine Tel (08362) 930 830. Open Apr–mid-
temples and the palace church of Oct: 9am–6pm daily; mid-Oct–Mar:
All Saints (Hofkirche) in the Residenz 10am–4pm daily. Closed 24 Dec. &
(see pp220–21) in Munich. ∑ hohenschwangau.de
KEY
Dining Room
1 Study Like other rooms in the
palace, the dining room
2 Two-storey arcades surround includes fabulous
the castle courtyard. pictures, intricately carved
3 Gatehouse provided the king panels and beautifully Main entrance
with temporary accommodation decorated furniture, all
during the castle’s construction, bearing witness to the
completed in 1872. skill and artistry of the Neo-Gothic castle of Maximilian II
19th-century craftsmen. in Hohenschwangau
For hotels and restaurants in this area see pp496–7 and pp519–22


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BA V ARIA  287


VISITORS’ CHECKLIST ! Hohen­
schwangau
Practical Information
Road map D7. Schloß Neusch- Road map D7. * Schwangau 3,818.
wanstein. Neuschwan steinstraße n Schwangau, Münchenerstraße 2
20. Tel (08362) 93 08 30. Open (08362-819 80). Ticket service:
Apr–15 Oct: 9am–6pm daily; 16 Hohenschwangau Alpseestraße 12
Oct–Mar: 10am–4pm daily. Closed (08362-930 830).
1 Jan & 24, 25, 31 Dec. & 8 7 The skyline of Schwangau is
(limited access). 0 - = n dominated by two castles,
Ticket centre in Hohenschwangau.
∑ neuschwanstein.de Schloß Neuschwanstein (left)
and the majestic Schloß
Hohenschwangau. The fortified
castle that occupied this site
in the Middle Ages was remod-
elled in 1538–47 and, in 1567,
it passed into the hands of
the Wittelsbach family. It was
destroyed during the Tyrolean
War but in 1832 the heir to the
throne (later Maximilian II)
. Castle Building ordered the ruins to be rebuilt
Schloß Neuschwanstein is the in Neo-Gothic style. The plans
archetypal fairy-tale castle and were prepared by the painter
has provided the inspiration for Domenico Quaglio; after his
countless toy models, book death, work on the castle was
illustrations and film sets. continued by the architects
Georg Friedrich Ziebland and
Joseph Daniel Ohlmüller.
Courtyard This four-storey building,
The heart of the castle was standing on medieval foun-
supposed to have been a dations, is flanked by angular
mighty 90-m (295-ft) high towers. The wall paintings that
tower with a Gothic decorate the rooms of the castle
castle church. It was date from 1835–36. Their icono-
never built, but in 1988 graphic content, which is based
its planned position on old Germanic sagas, is the
was marked in
white stone. work of Moritz von Schwind. A
walk around the castle provides
an excellent opportunity to
study the Wittelsbach family
history and to see the mid-19th
century furnishings. There
are magnificent views of the
surroundings from the castle’s
lovely terraced gardens.
+ Schloß Hohenschwangau
Tel (08362) 930 830. Open Apr–mid-
Oct: 9am–6pm daily; mid-Oct–Mar:
10am–4pm daily. Closed 24 Dec. &
∑ hohenschwangau.de







Main entrance

Neo-Gothic castle of Maximilian II
in Hohenschwangau




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288  SOUTHERN GERM AN Y BA V ARIA  289


£ Lindau $ Oberstdorf % Füssen
Road map C7. * 24,000. £ Road map C7. * 10,000. £ Road map D7. * 16,000. £
n Alfred-Nobel-Platz 1 (08382-26 00 n Prinzregenten-Platz 1 (08322- n Kaiser-Maximilian-Platz 1 (08362-
30). _ Lindauer Kinderfest (Jul). 70 00). 938 50).
In Roman times Lindau was a Oberstdorf lies in the valley of Situated conveniently on an
fishing settlement, which used the River Iller. The ideal skiing important trade route, Füssen
to lie over three islands. The first conditions and the mild all- experienced its most rapid
historic records of the town year-round climate make this growth in the late Middle Ages,
date from 882. On the south one of the most popular as witnessed by many of the
side of the old-town island health resorts and winter sports buildings in Reichenstraße
lies the harbour with its centres in Germany. Nearby is and the remains of the town
13th-century lighthouse the skiing stadium fortifications, which include
(Mangturm). The new light- (Schattenberg- Sebastiantor and
house (Neuer Leuchtturm), Skistadion) with its sections of the walls
built in 1856, stands on the famous ski-jump, with five turrets.
The Rococo Throne Room in the Kempten Residenz neighbouring pier and offers where the annual Perched on a rock, Late-Baroque interior of the Abbey Library,
a splendid view over the lake “four ski-jump” high above the in Ottobeuren
@ Kempten nave, galleried basilica with an and the Alps. The marble Lion tournament starts town, stands the
octag onal cupola and a twin- of Bavaria opposite is the each year. palace of the ^ Ottobeuren
Road map C7. * 65,000. £
n Rathausplatz 22 (0831-960 955 0). tower façade, this is the work of symbol of Lindau. Although the fire Augsburg prince- Road map C7. * 8,000.
_ Allgäuer Festwochen (Aug). Michael Beer and Johann Serro. The old town features many of 1865 destroyed bishops. Started in n Marktplatz 6 (08332-921 90).
∑ kempten.de The town’s parish church of historic buildings, such as the large sections of the 1291 by the
St Mang dates from the 15th Gothic-Renaissance town hall in settlement here, Bavarian Prince Situated 13 km (8 miles) from
Kempten lies at the centre of century and in the Rathausplatz Reichsplatz, which was built in some of the most Ludwig II the Memmingen, the small health
one of Germany’s most attrac- is an attractive town hall dating 1422–36 and later remodelled important historic Severe, construction resort of Ottobeuren is the
tive tourist regions, the Allgäu, from 1474. The Kempten in 1578. The picturesque buildings escaped. was continued in site of one of Germany’s most
which stretches from Bodensee Residenz is a historic property Maximilianstraße is lined with These include 1490–1503 by the famous Benedictine abbeys.
(Lake Constance) to the west in beautiful grounds. On the the houses of rich patricians; Seelenkapelle, Augsburg bishops. Founded in 764, the abbey is
and the river Lech to the east. right bank of the river Iller is their shady arcades (Brodlauben) whose façade is The residential still a place of prayer and work
The town, which boasts a the Archäolo gischer Park, with are typical of Lindau architecture. decorated with a Madonna in the Church buildings of the palace for the monks who live here,
history of over 2,000 years, was excavated remains of Roman In Schrannenplatz, in the 16th-century wall of St Mang, in Füssen range around a having withstood even the
first mentioned by the Greek Cambodunum. The 13th-century northwest area of the town, painting typical of the courtyard whose walls radical secularization of 1803.
geographer and historian Erasmuskapelle chapel is also stands the church of St Peter. region, and two chapels, are decorated with trompe l’oeil In the 18th century the abbey
Strabon as a Celtic settlement, worth visiting. Since 1928 this has been the Loretto kapelle and Joseph- door and window frames. was remodelled by the Abbot
Kambo dunon. Later, the Romans war memorial chapel for skapelle, which were joined At the foot of the castle Rupert II. The foundation stone
established Cambodunum on E Kempten Residenz World War I victims. Its eastern together in 1707. Just to the stands the former Benedictine for the building complex was
the right bank of the river Iller. Residenzplatz 4–6. Tel (0831) 256 251. section dates from the mid- east of Oberstdorf is the 2,224-m Abbey (Kloster St Mang), which laid in 1717 and work began
Along with Augusta Vinde- Open Apr–Sep: 9am–4pm Tue–Sun; 12th century while the bigger, (7,300-ft) Mount Nebelhorn, was erected in the 9th century under the direction of Simpert
licorum (Augsburg) and Castra Oct: 10am–4pm Tue–Sun; Nov & Jan– western section was built whose summit can be reached at the burial site of St Magnus, Kraemer. The new buildings
Regina (Regensburg), this was Mar: 10am–4pm Sat & Sun; Dec: between 1425 and 1480. The in a few minutes by cable car. This the “Apostle of the Allgäu”. were completed in 1731. The
one of the most important towns 12.15–4pm daily. & 8 ∑ interior contains many wall offers a spectacular view over the The only surviving part of the richly decorated interiors, with
in the Roman province of Raetia. schloesser.bayern.de paintings, including some by majestic Allgäuer Alps as well as abbey is the late 10th-century stuccoes by Andrea Maini,
Medieval Kempten grew T Archäologischer Park Hans Holbein the Elder dating providing an excellent starting crypt with the remains of still survive. A new abbey
around a Benedictine Abbey, Cambodunum from 1485–90. Nearby stands point for mountain hiking. wall paintings. church was built between 1737
founded in 752. In the north- Cambodunumweg 3. Tel (0831) 252 the Diebsturm (Thief’s Tower) and 1766 with construction
western part of town is the 369. Open Mar–Nov: 10am–5pm. of 1380. The Stadtmuseum supervised initially by Simpert
church of St Lorenz. A triple- Closed Dec–Feb. (town museum) is housed in Kramer. In 1748, this was taken
Haus zum Cavazzen (1729) in over by Johann Michael Fischer,
Marktplatz, which also features who was responsible for its
a lovely Neptune fountain. final appearance.
On the south side of the The interior of the church
Market Square stands the has a magnificent unity of style:
Protestant Church of St Rococo stuccoes by Johann
Stephen, which dates from Michael Feuchtmayr are in
the 12th century and was perfect harmony with the vault
remodelled in Baroque style in frescoes by Johann Jakob Zeiller
1782. The Catholic Church of as well as the splendid altars
St Mary, built in 1748–52, has and stalls by Martin Hörmann
a lovely Rococo interior. and Johann Zeiller’s brother
Franz Anton Zeiller. The abbey’s
E Stadtmuseum Lindau three organs, which are
Marktplatz 6. Tel (08382) 94 40 73. particularly beautiful, can be
Epitaph of the family of Andreas Bertsch, in the Stadtmuseum Lindau Open Apr–Aug: 10am–6pm daily. Heini-Klopfer Ski-jump complex in Oberstdorf heard at regularly held recitals.
For hotels and restaurants in this area see pp496–7 and pp519–22


288-289_EW_Germany.indd 288 09/10/17 1:00 pm 288-289_EW_Germany.indd 289 09/10/17 1:00 pm
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(Source v2.2)
Date 15th January 2013
Size 125mm x 217mm

BA V ARIA  289


$ Oberstdorf % Füssen
Road map C7. * 10,000. £ Road map D7. * 16,000. £
n Prinzregenten-Platz 1 (08322- n Kaiser-Maximilian-Platz 1 (08362-
70 00). 938 50).
Oberstdorf lies in the valley of Situated conveniently on an
the River Iller. The ideal skiing important trade route, Füssen
conditions and the mild all- experienced its most rapid
year-round climate make this growth in the late Middle Ages,
one of the most popular as witnessed by many of the
health resorts and winter sports buildings in Reichenstraße
centres in Germany. Nearby is and the remains of the town
the skiing stadium fortifications, which include
(Schattenberg- Sebastiantor and
Skistadion) with its sections of the walls
famous ski-jump, with five turrets.
where the annual Perched on a rock, Late-Baroque interior of the Abbey Library,
“four ski-jump” high above the in Ottobeuren
tournament starts town, stands the
each year. palace of the ^ Ottobeuren
Although the fire Augsburg prince- Road map C7. * 8,000.
of 1865 destroyed bishops. Started in n Marktplatz 6 (08332-921 90).
large sections of the 1291 by the
settlement here, Bavarian Prince Situated 13 km (8 miles) from
some of the most Ludwig II the Memmingen, the small health
important historic Severe, construction resort of Ottobeuren is the
buildings escaped. was continued in site of one of Germany’s most
These include 1490–1503 by the famous Benedictine abbeys.
Seelenkapelle, Augsburg bishops. Founded in 764, the abbey is
whose façade is The residential still a place of prayer and work
decorated with a Madonna in the Church buildings of the palace for the monks who live here,
16th-century wall of St Mang, in Füssen range around a having withstood even the
painting typical of the courtyard whose walls radical secularization of 1803.
region, and two chapels, are decorated with trompe l’oeil In the 18th century the abbey
Loretto kapelle and Joseph- door and window frames. was remodelled by the Abbot
skapelle, which were joined At the foot of the castle Rupert II. The foundation stone
together in 1707. Just to the stands the former Benedictine for the building complex was
east of Oberstdorf is the 2,224-m Abbey (Kloster St Mang), which laid in 1717 and work began
(7,300-ft) Mount Nebelhorn, was erected in the 9th century under the direction of Simpert
whose summit can be reached at the burial site of St Magnus, Kraemer. The new buildings
in a few minutes by cable car. This the “Apostle of the Allgäu”. were completed in 1731. The
offers a spectacular view over the The only surviving part of the richly decorated interiors, with
majestic Allgäuer Alps as well as abbey is the late 10th-century stuccoes by Andrea Maini,
providing an excellent starting crypt with the remains of still survive. A new abbey
point for mountain hiking. wall paintings. church was built between 1737
and 1766 with construction
supervised initially by Simpert
Kramer. In 1748, this was taken
over by Johann Michael Fischer,
who was responsible for its
final appearance.
The interior of the church
has a magnificent unity of style:
Rococo stuccoes by Johann
Michael Feuchtmayr are in
perfect harmony with the vault
frescoes by Johann Jakob Zeiller
as well as the splendid altars
and stalls by Martin Hörmann
and Johann Zeiller’s brother
Franz Anton Zeiller. The abbey’s
three organs, which are
particularly beautiful, can be
Heini-Klopfer Ski-jump complex in Oberstdorf heard at regularly held recitals.




288-289_EW_Germany.indd 289 09/10/17 1:00 pm

290  SOUTHERN GERM AN Y BA V ARIA  291

& Augsburg VISITORS’ CHECKLIST

Situated at the confluence of the Lech and Practical Information
Wertach rivers, Augsburg is the third largest town Road Map D6. * 265,000.
in Bavaria and one of the oldest in Germany. As Augustusbrunnen n Rathausplatz 1 (0821­50 20
70). _ Frühjahrsplärrer (week
early as 15 BC this was the site of a Roman camp, Incorporating a statue following Easter), Mozartsommer
of the Emperor
which later became a town known as Augusta Augustus, the fountain (Jul), Friedenfest (8 Aug),
Vindelicorum. Until the end of the 13th century, was created in the Herbstplärrer (Aug/Sep).
the town was ruled by powerful bishops. From workshop of Dutchman ∑ augsburg-tourismus.de
1316, as a Free Imperial City of the Holy Roman Hubert Gerhard in 1594. Transport
Empire, Augsburg grew to become one of the k Munich, 90 km (55 miles) east.
richest and most powerful cities in Germany. The £
Thirty Years’ War (1618–48), however, put an end View of the monumental Gothic Dom
to the town’s prosperity. . Rathaus of the Holy Virgin
Dom The town hall, built by Elias Holl in
1615–20, is widely considered the R Dom of the Holy Virgin
Church of St Anna most significant secular Renais­ (Dom Unserer Lieben Frau)
The star attraction of this sance building north of the Alps. Frauentorstraße 1. Open 7am–6pm.
unassuming ex-Carmelite Originally a Romanesque twin­
church is the Renaissance P choir, pillared basilica with crypt,
memorial chapel endowed H I western transept and two towers,
by the brothers Ulrich and L
.
Jacob Fugger in 1509. – dating from 994–1065, the
structure was remodelled
W
between 1331 and 1431 along
E
L
Gothic lines. The church was
S
given two further side aisles, a
E
R
choir with an ambulatory and
–
S
a French­style ring of chapels.
T
Original features include the
R
A
. Maximilianstraße richly carved portals and the
S
S
Augsburg’s main thoroughfare is the most famous Romanesque bronze
E
beautiful street in southern Germany, with door with 35 panels depicting
notable fountains by Adrian de Vries. allegorical figures. There are
some unique stained­glass
windows, dating from 1140.
E
S
S P Fuggerei
A Fuggerei­Museum, Mittlere Gasse14.
B G M . – F I S C H E R - S T R A S S
R
T Tel (0821) 319 88 114. Open Apr–Oct:
S W I N T E R G A S S E 8am–8pm daily; Nov–Mar: 9am–6pm
A
N daily. &
N B G M . – F I S C H E R - S T R A S S E E The Fuggerei, in Augsburg’s
A Jakobervorstadt (Jacob’s Suburb),
estate. It was founded in 1516
Maximilianmuseum Z Z is Europe’s oldest social housing
Set in a Renaissance A T A T M . Fuggerhäuser by Jacob Fugger, a member of
patrician mansion, the L L A X Commissioned by Jacob what was then the richest family
museum has a splendid P P G G I M II Fugger (1459–1525) in Europe. The intention was to
collection of work by local U U I L for himself and his provide homes for the town’s
gold- and silversmiths. E E I A family, this Italian­ poorest citizens, particularly
Z Z N style building,
W A L L S T R A S S E S T with two arcaded families with children. Today,
K Ő NIGS– R courtyards, was however, it has evolved into
PL A TZ A S built in 1512–15. a home for retired citizens.
S The 52 houses in Fuggerei
Zeughaus E were built in 1516–25 and line
A bronze group by
Hans Reichle, St Michael St Ulrich- six streets. They are surrounded
Overcoming Satan und-Afra by gardens. One of the build­
(1607), adorns the ings houses the Fuggerei-
façade of the former Museum, which is devoted to
arsenal building by Elias Key the history of the estate and
Holl, the most important has a fascinating shop, the
early Baroque architect. St Moritz Kirche Suggested route Himmlisches Fuggereilädle.
For hotels and restaurants in this area see pp496–7 and pp519–22
290-291_EW_Germany.indd 290 09/10/17 1:00 pm 290-291_EW_Germany.indd 291 09/10/17 1:00 pm
Eyewitness Travel LAYERS PRINTED:
Starsight template “UK” LAYER
(Source v2.5)
Date 6th February2013
Size 125mm x 217mm

BA V ARIA  291


VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
Practical Information
Road Map D6. * 265,000.
n Rathausplatz 1 (0821­50 20
70). _ Frühjahrsplärrer (week
following Easter), Mozartsommer
(Jul), Friedenfest (8 Aug),
Herbstplärrer (Aug/Sep).
∑ augsburg-tourismus.de
Transport
k Munich, 90 km (55 miles) east.
£
View of the monumental Gothic Dom
. Rathaus of the Holy Virgin
The town hall, built by Elias Holl in
1615–20, is widely considered the R Dom of the Holy Virgin
most significant secular Renais­ (Dom Unserer Lieben Frau)
sance building north of the Alps. Frauentorstraße 1. Open 7am–6pm.
Originally a Romanesque twin­
choir, pillared basilica with crypt,
western transept and two towers,
dating from 994–1065, the
structure was remodelled
between 1331 and 1431 along
Gothic lines. The church was
given two further side aisles, a
choir with an ambulatory and
a French­style ring of chapels.
Original features include the
. Maximilianstraße richly carved portals and the
Augsburg’s main thoroughfare is the most famous Romanesque bronze
beautiful street in southern Germany, with door with 35 panels depicting
notable fountains by Adrian de Vries. allegorical figures. There are
some unique stained­glass
windows, dating from 1140.
P Fuggerei
Fuggerei­Museum, Mittlere Gasse14.
B G M . – F I S C H E R - S T R A S S E W I N T E R G A S S E 8am–8pm daily; Nov–Mar: 9am–6pm
Tel (0821) 319 88 114. Open Apr–Oct:
daily. &
The Fuggerei, in Augsburg’s
Jakobervorstadt (Jacob’s Suburb),
estate. It was founded in 1516
by Jacob Fugger, a member of
A T Z M . Fuggerhäuser is Europe’s oldest social housing
L A X Commissioned by Jacob what was then the richest family
P I II Fugger (1459–1525) in Europe. The intention was to
G M
I for himself and his
U L provide homes for the town’s
I
E A family, this Italian­ poorest citizens, particularly
Z
style building,
N
S families with children. Today,
with two arcaded
T however, it has evolved into
courtyards, was
R
A a home for retired citizens.
built in 1512–15.
S
S The 52 houses in Fuggerei
E
were built in 1516–25 and line
six streets. They are surrounded
St Ulrich- by gardens. One of the build­
und-Afra
ings houses the Fuggerei-
Museum, which is devoted to
the history of the estate and
Key
has a fascinating shop, the
St Moritz Kirche Suggested route Himmlisches Fuggereilädle.
290-291_EW_Germany.indd 291 09/10/17 1:00 pm

SOUTHERN GERM AN Y  293

BADEN-

WÜRTTEMBERG


This German state, which includes territories of the former Grand
Duchy of Baden, is one of the country’s most popular tourist
destinations. Its charming old university towns, such as Tübingen
and Heidelberg, historic castles, luxurious resorts and the magnificent
recreation areas of the Schwarzwald (Black Forest) and Bodensee
(Lake Constance) guarantee enjoyable and memorable holidays.

This region’s turbulent history, which has In Heidelberg the enlightened elector
been ruled over the years by Palatinate Ruprecht I founded the first university in
electors, counts and finally kings of Germany in 1386 and shortly after this
Württemberg, as well as by margraves epoch-making event, further universities
and Grand Dukes of Baden, has given the were established in Tübingen and Freiburg
province its cultural and religious diversity. im Breisgau. Many towns and villages in
This southwestern area of Germany the region can boast a history going back
was the cradle of two great dynasties to Roman times. The Romans used to grow
that played a significant part in German vines in the area of Baden-Württemberg
and European history and culture. The and now wines from the region are
Hohenstaufen family – which originated renowned worldwide for their high quality.
from Swabia – produced kings and Baden-Württemberg, however, does not
emperors who ruled during the most only represent an illustrious past, but also
magnificent period of the German Middle an impressive present. Unemployment
Ages (1138–1254). These included figures for the region are the lowest in
Frederick I Barbarossa and Frederick II. The Germany, and many companies that are
Hohenzollern family, also from Swabia, known and respected throughout the
produced Brandenburg dukes, Prussian world – such as Bosch, Daimler, Porsche
kings including Frederick the Great and and the software company SAP – have
German emperors from 1871–1918. their production plants here.























Magnificent French-style garden in front of the palace in Ludwigsburg
Ornate façade within the walls of Heidelberg Castle



292-293_EW_Germany.indd 292 09/10/17 1:00 pm 292-293_EW_Germany.indd 293 09/10/17 1:00 pm
Eyewitness Travel LAYERS PRINTED:
Regional opener template “UK” LAYER
(SourceReport v1.2)
Date 5th December 2012
Size 125mm x 217mm

SOUTHERN GERM AN Y  293

BADEN-

WÜRTTEMBERG


This German state, which includes territories of the former Grand
Duchy of Baden, is one of the country’s most popular tourist
destinations. Its charming old university towns, such as Tübingen
and Heidelberg, historic castles, luxurious resorts and the magnificent
recreation areas of the Schwarzwald (Black Forest) and Bodensee
(Lake Constance) guarantee enjoyable and memorable holidays.

This region’s turbulent history, which has In Heidelberg the enlightened elector
been ruled over the years by Palatinate Ruprecht I founded the first university in
electors, counts and finally kings of Germany in 1386 and shortly after this
Württemberg, as well as by margraves epoch-making event, further universities
and Grand Dukes of Baden, has given the were established in Tübingen and Freiburg
province its cultural and religious diversity. im Breisgau. Many towns and villages in
This southwestern area of Germany the region can boast a history going back
was the cradle of two great dynasties to Roman times. The Romans used to grow
that played a significant part in German vines in the area of Baden-Württemberg
and European history and culture. The and now wines from the region are
Hohenstaufen family – which originated renowned worldwide for their high quality.
from Swabia – produced kings and Baden-Württemberg, however, does not
emperors who ruled during the most only represent an illustrious past, but also
magnificent period of the German Middle an impressive present. Unemployment
Ages (1138–1254). These included figures for the region are the lowest in
Frederick I Barbarossa and Frederick II. The Germany, and many companies that are
Hohenzollern family, also from Swabia, known and respected throughout the
produced Brandenburg dukes, Prussian world – such as Bosch, Daimler, Porsche
kings including Frederick the Great and and the software company SAP – have
German emperors from 1871–1918. their production plants here.























Magnificent French-style garden in front of the palace in Ludwigsburg
Ornate façade within the walls of Heidelberg Castle



292-293_EW_Germany.indd 293 09/10/17 1:00 pm

294  SOUTHERN GERM AN Y BADEN-W Ü R T TEMBERG  295

Baden-Württemberg AschaffenburgAschaffenburg Getting Around
WERTHEIMWERTHEIM The main communication centres of
With its magnificent castles, luxurious resorts and the beautiful recreation WürzburgWürzburg the area are Stuttgart, which has an
areas of the Schwarzwald (Black Forest), Baden-Württemberg is one of WeinheimWeinheim Tauber international airport, and Mannheim.
Germany’s most popular tourist destinations. In addition, the region’s long TAUBERBISCHOFSHEIMTAUBERBISCHOFSHEIM Main motorways include the A5 from
Tauber
and turbulent history has given it a rich cultural and religious diversity. WEIKERSHEIMWEIKERSHEIM Frankfurt to Basel, via Heidelberg,
The southwest region of Germany was the cradle of two dynasties that MANNHEIMMANNHEIM BuchenBuchen BADBAD Karlsruhe, Baden-Baden and Freiburg;
the A81 from Würzburg to Constance,
played important roles in German and European history and culture – Eberbach Eberbach MERGENTHEIMMERGENTHEIM via Tauberbischofsheim, Heilbronn,
Neckar
the Hohenstaufen and Hohenzollern families. The great number of urban SCHWETZINGENSCHWETZINGEN Neckar CREGLINGENCREGLINGEN Stuttgart and Schwäbische Alb; the
centres in the state is due to the influence of these two families. Baden- HEIDELBERGHEIDELBERG A6 from Mannheim to Ansbach, via
Württemberg also has more universities than any other state in Germany, Mosbach Mosbach Kocher Heilbronn and Crailsheim; and the A8
Kocher
the oldest being located at Heidelberg, Tübingen and Freiburg im Breisgau. KünzelsauKünzelsau from Karlsruhe to Ulm, via Stuttgart.
SinsheimSinsheim
BAD WIMPFENBAD WIMPFEN Jagst
Jagst
NurembergNuremberg
BRUCHSALBRUCHSAL HEILBRONNHEILBRONN SCHWÄBISCH-SCHWÄBISCH-
Neckar Neckar HALLHALL Sights at a Glance
MAULBRONNMAULBRONN
KARLSRUHEKARLSRUHE GaildorfGaildorf 1 Wertheim
Bietigheim-BissingenBietigheim-Bissingen EllwangenEllwangen 2 Tauberbischofsheim
EttlingenEttlingen MARBACHMARBACH 3 Bad Mergentheim
RastattRastatt PforzheimPforzheim LUDWIGSBURGLUDWIGSBURG 4 Weikersheim
AalenAalen BopfingenBopfingen 5 Creglingen
WaiblingenWaiblingen
GaggenauGaggenau STUTTGARTSTUTTGART SCHWÄBISCHSCHWÄBISCH 6 Mannheim
BADEN-BADENBADEN-BADEN GMÜNDGMÜND
ESSLINGENESSLINGEN 7 Schwetzingen
GöppingenGöppingen HeidenheimHeidenheim 8 Bruchsal
SindelfingenSindelfingen an der Brenzan der Brenz 9 Heidelberg pp300–303
KirchheimKirchheim
HornisgrindeHornisgrinde 0 Karlsruhe
B A D E N - W Ü R T T E M B E R
1164m1164m B A D E N - W Ü R T T E M B E R G G q Baden-Baden
MetzingenMetzingen
StrasbourgStrasbourg LangenauLangenau w Maulbronn pp306–7
OffenburgOffenburg Bad UrachBad Urach e Heilbronn
TÜBINGENTÜBINGEN ReutlingenReutlingen
The picturesque castle in Sigmaringen, in the region of FreudenstadtFreudenstadt r Schwäbisch Hall
g g
Schwäbische Alb Ki n z i i B B BlaubeurenBlaubeuren AugsburgAugsburg t Schwäbisch Gmünd
LahrLahr Ki n z ULMULM y Bad Wimpfen
HechingenHechingen A A L L
BurladingenBurladingen EhingenEhingen u Marbach
BalingenBalingen H H E E i Esslingen
Neckar
Neckar
GutachGutach o Ludwigsburg pp310–11
S C H W Ä B I S C
Danube
Key LaupheimLaupheim
AlbstadtAlbstadt Danube p Stuttgart pp312–17
Motorway Elz Elz D D ROTTWEILROTTWEIL S C H W Ä B I S C Rot a Schwäbische Alb
Rot
Major road EmmendingenEmmendingen L L LembergLemberg RiedlingenRiedlingen BiberachBiberach s Tübingen
1015m1015m
Villingen-Villingen-
Minor road KandelKandel W W A A SchwenningenSchwenningen TrossingenTrossingen SigmaringenSigmaringen MunichMunich d Rottweil
1242m1242m
Riss
Main railway Z Z FurtwangenFurtwangen BeuronBeuron SaulgauSaulgau Riss f Ulm
FREIBURGFREIBURG TuttlingenTuttlingen
Minor railway IM BREISGAUIM BREISGAU A A R R Bad WaldseeBad Waldsee g Ravensburg
International border W W DonaueschingenDonaueschingen h Weingarten
BadBad FeldbergFeldberg j Salem
Regional border KrozingenKrozingen C C H H 1493m1493m StockachStockach KemptenKempten k Bodensee pp324–25
Summit S S BlumbergBlumberg SALEMSALEM WEINGARTENWEINGARTEN
MüllheimMüllheim SingenSingen l Freiburg im Breisgau pp328–9
TodtmoosTodtmoos ÜberlingenÜberlingen RAVENSBURGRAVENSBURG z Schwarzwald (Black Forest)
St BlasienSt Blasien pp330–31
SchopfheimSchopfheim KonstanzKonstanz Schussen Schussen
LörrachLörrach
Waldshut-Waldshut- B O D E N S E Friedrichs-Friedrichs-
TiengenTiengen hafenhafen
B O D E N S E E E
BaselBasel
St GallenSt Gallen
0 kilometres 20
The Gothic town hall in Ulm 0 miles 20 Palace façade in Bruchsal
For additional map symbols see back flap
294-295_EW_Germany.indd 294 09/10/17 1:00 pm 294-295_EW_Germany.indd 295 09/10/17 1:00 pm
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(Source v1.4)
Date 5th December 2012
Size 125mm x 217mm

BADEN-W Ü R T TEMBERG  295

Aschaffenburg
Getting Around
WERTHEIM The main communication centres of
Würzburg the area are Stuttgart, which has an
Weinheim Tauber international airport, and Mannheim.
Main motorways include the A5 from
TAUBERBISCHOFSHEIM
Frankfurt to Basel, via Heidelberg,
WEIKERSHEIM Karlsruhe, Baden-Baden and Freiburg;
Buchen
MANNHEIM Eberbach BAD the A81 from Würzburg to Constance,
Neckar CREGLINGEN Stuttgart and Schwäbische Alb; the
SCHWETZINGEN MERGENTHEIM via Tauberbischofsheim, Heilbronn,
A6 from Mannheim to Ansbach, via
HEIDELBERG Mosbach Heilbronn and Crailsheim; and the A8
Kocher
Künzelsau from Karlsruhe to Ulm, via Stuttgart.
Sinsheim
BAD WIMPFEN Jagst
Nuremberg
BRUCHSAL HEILBRONN SCHWÄBISCH-
Neckar HALL Sights at a Glance
MAULBRONN
KARLSRUHE Gaildorf 1 Wertheim
Bietigheim-Bissingen Ellwangen 2 Tauberbischofsheim
Ettlingen MARBACH 3 Bad Mergentheim
Rastatt Pforzheim LUDWIGSBURG 4 Weikersheim
Aalen Bopfingen 5 Creglingen
Waiblingen
Gaggenau STUTTGART SCHWÄBISCH 6 Mannheim
BADEN-BADEN GMÜND
ESSLINGEN 7 Schwetzingen
Göppingen Heidenheim 8 Bruchsal
Sindelfingen an der Brenz 9 Heidelberg pp300–303
Kirchheim
Hornisgrinde 0 Karlsruhe
1164m B A D E N - W Ü R T T E M B E R G q Baden-Baden
Metzingen
Strasbourg Langenau w Maulbronn pp306–7
Offenburg Bad Urach e Heilbronn
TÜBINGEN Reutlingen
Freudenstadt r Schwäbisch Hall
g t Schwäbisch Gmünd
Ki n z i B Blaubeuren Augsburg
Lahr ULM y Bad Wimpfen
Hechingen A L
Burladingen Ehingen u Marbach
Balingen H E i Esslingen
Neckar
Gutach Laupheim o Ludwigsburg pp310–11
Albstadt Danube Rot p Stuttgart pp312–17
Elz D ROTTWEIL S C H W Ä B I S C a Schwäbische Alb
Emmendingen L Lemberg Riedlingen
A Villingen- 1015m Biberach s Tübingen
Kandel Sigmaringen Munich
1242m W Schwenningen Trossingen Beuron Riss d Rottweil
FREIBURG R Z Furtwangen Tuttlingen Saulgau f Ulm
IM BREISGAU A Bad Waldsee g Ravensburg
W Donaueschingen h Weingarten
Bad Feldberg j Salem
Krozingen C H 1493m Stockach Kempten
S SALEM WEINGARTEN k Bodensee pp324–25
Müllheim Blumberg Singen l Freiburg im Breisgau pp328–9
Todtmoos Überlingen RAVENSBURG z Schwarzwald (Black Forest)
St Blasien pp330–31
Schopfheim Konstanz Schussen
Lörrach
Friedrichs-
Waldshut- B O D E N S E E
Tiengen hafen
Basel
St Gallen
Palace façade in Bruchsal
294-295_EW_Germany.indd 295 09/10/17 1:00 pm

296  SOUTHERN GERM AN Y BADEN-W Ü R T TEMBERG  297


1 Wertheim old “Star Pharmacy” in a house de Cuvilliés, while the ceiling dates from the 16th–18th
once occupied by Georg fresco (The Victorious Cross) is centuries. Its highlight is
Road map C5. * 24,500. £
n Gerbergasse 16 (09342-935 090). Michael Franck, grandfather of the work of Nicolaus Stuber. undoubtedly the vast Rittersaal,
_ Altstadtfest (Jul), Burgweinfest (Aug). the Romantic poets Clemens The castle is now the home of a sumptuous banqueting hall
and Bettina Brentano. a very interesting museum, that measures 35 m (115 ft)
The rivers Tauber and Main meet In the eastern section of the Deutschordens museum. long x 12 m (39 ft) wide x 9 m
at Wertheim, where historic records Hauptstraße stands Haus Mackert Many of the town’s historic (29 ft) high. The counts and
date from 1183. A gun powder – a Baroque mansion built in buildings survive to this day, their aristocratic guests used to
explosion in 1619 plus the des- 1744 for a wealthy wine including the 13th-century enter this room on horseback.
truc tion caused by the Thirty merchant. In Schloßplatz is the Church of the Knights of St John Its very rare, original furnishings
Years’ War turned the Wertheimer Kurmainzisches Schloß, an of Jerusalem and the Dominican include paintings and reliefs
Burg into a romantic ruin. Its tall imposing edifice built in the church containing the epitaph depicting hunting scenes.
watch- tower offers great views. 15th–16th centuries, that now of the Grand Master Walther A true rarity is the original
Not far from Wertheim’s market houses the Landschaftsmuseum. von Cronberg. The Pfarrkirche Baroque Hofgarten (palace
square is a Baroque Pro tes tant (Parish church) in the Stuppach garden), designed by Daniel
church, dating from the 15th– E Landschaftsmuseum district contains a masterpiece Matthieu and built in 1709.
18th centuries. It is home to Kurmainzisches Schloß by Grünewald (1519), known as
tombs of the von Wertheim Half-timbered houses and tower, Tel (09341) 37 60. Open Palm the Madonna of Stuppach. + Schloß Weikersheim
family and the most spectacular Tauberbischofsheim Sunday–Oct: 2–4:30pm Tue–Sat, Tel (07934) 992 950. Open Apr–Oct:
is the tomb of Count Ludwig II 10am–noon & 2–4:30pm Sun. & R Pfarrkirche in Stuppach 9am–6pm daily; Nov–Mar: 10am–
von Löwenstein-Wertheim and 2 Tauberbischofs­ Grünewald Straße 45. Tel (07931) 26 noon & 1–5pm daily. & 8 Altar by Tilman Riemenschneider, in
his wife. Also worth visiting are heim 3 Bad 05. Open May–Oct: 8:30am–6:30pm E Tauberländer Dorfmuseum Creglingen’s Herrgottskirche
the Glas museum (exhibits range daily; Mar, Apr & Nov: 11am–4pm. & Marktplatz. Tel (07934) 12 09. Open
from jewellery to scientific Road map C5. * 13,000. £ Mergentheim E Deutschordensmuseum Apr–Oct: 1.30–5pm Fri–Sun. & altar for the church. The main
instruments), Grafschafts­ n Marktplatz 8 (09341-803 33). Road map C5. * 25,000. £ Schloß. Tel (07931) 522 12. theme of the polyptych is
museum Wertheim (local fairy n Marktplatz 1 (07931-574 815). Open Apr–Oct: 10:30am–5pm Tue– the Assumption of the Virgin
tales feature in the collection) and Boniface, the Anglo-Saxon _ Markelsheimer Weinfest (after Sun; Nov–Mar: 2–5pm Tue–Sat, 5 Creglingen Mary, considered to be the
Museum Schlöß chen im missionary to the German Whitsun). 10:30am–5pm Sun. & Road map C5. * 5,000. @ n Bad artist’s masterpiece.
Hofgarten (the “castle in the tribes, established Germany’s Mergentheimer Straße (07933-6 31). The town is also home to
courtyard” houses paintings and first nunnery in AD 735. Lying in a charming spot the famous Fingerhutmuseum
Parisian porcelain). Its first prioress, on the river Tauber, Bad 4 Weikersheim Upstream from Weikersheim, (Thimble Museum).
Lioba, who was Mergentheim was, on the Bavarian border, is the
E Glasmuseum related to Boni- from 1525 until Road map C5. * 8,000. n Am small town of Creglingen. Here, R Herrgottskirche
Mühlenstraße 24. Tel (09342) 68 66. face, gave her 1809, the seat of Marktplatz 7 (07934-102 55). sometime in the distant past, a Schirmbacher Straße 16. Tel (07933)
Open 10am– 5pm Tue–Fri, 1–6pm name to the the Grand Eleven kilometres (7 miles) ploughman found a luminous 338 or 508. Open Feb–Mar & Nov–
Sat–Sun & hols. & Baroque church Masters of the east of Bad Mergentheim is holy wafer in a clod of earth Dec: 1–4pm Tue–Sun; Apr–Oct:
E Grafschaftsmuseum Wertheim that stands in religious order of the picturesque little town and within a few years, the 9:15am–6pm daily. &
Rathausgasse 6–10. Tel (09342) 30 15 11. Tauberbischofs- the “House of the of Weikersheim. A Rococo Herrgotts kirche was built, E Fingerhutmuseum
Open 10am–noon, 2:30–4:30pm Tue– heim’s market square. Heraldic crest from the Hospitallers of Saint fountain from 1768 is at the where the host was put on Kohlersmühle 6. Tel (07933) 370.
Fri, 2:30–4:30pm Sat, 2–5pm Sun. & The town, which castle in Bad Mergentheim Mary of the Teutons centre of the market square display for visiting pilgrims. Open Apr–Oct: 10am–12:30pm &
enjoys a picturesque in Jerusalem”, more while the late-Gothic parish Between 1502 and 1506 Tilman 2–5pm Tue–Sun; Nov–Mar: 1–4pm
E Museum Schlößchen Tue–Sun. Closed Jan & Feb. &
im Hofgarten location in the valley of the river commonly known as the church is on the north side. The Riemenschneider carved an
Würzburger Straße 30. Tel (09342) 301 Tauber, still has a group of Teutonic Knights. When three latter is a triple-nave hall-church
511. Open Mar–Oct: 2–5pm Tue–Sat, original half-timbered houses. Hohenlohe brothers entered with a single-tower western Teutonic Order
noon–6pm Sun & hols; Nov–Feb On the market square is the the Order in 1220, they façade and two towers by the
2–5pm Fri & Sat, noon–6pm Sun. Baroque Rehhof (1702) and the contributed to it their share of choir. Inside are many tombs The Order of the Hospital of St Mary of the German
their father’s estate. This laid the of the von Hohenlohe House in Jerusalem was officially founded in Acre
foundations for one of the most family. Also on the (Akkon) in 1190. Its aim was to care for sick
powerful Teutonic commands market square pilgrims or Crusaders wounded in fights with
at the heart of the Holy Roman stands the the Saracens. In 1231–83, the Teutonic Knights
Empire. From 1244 until 1250 Tauberländer took over all of Prussia and, in 1308–09 all
Heinrich von Hohenlohe held Dorfmuseum, Eastern Pomerania around Danzig, and they
the office of Grand Master. which charts the moved their headquarters from Venice to
The former Hohenlohe’s history of rural life Marienburg on the river Nogat. In 1525 the
castle, built in the 12th–13th in Franconia. In Grand Master, Albrecht von Hohenzollern-
centuries, was remodelled in the western part Ansbach, converted to Lutheranism and
secularized Teutonic Prussia. However, the
Renaissance style in 1565–74 of town stands Order remained in existence in the Holy
by Michael Bronner and Blasius the very well Roman Empire: its German Master, Walter
Berwart. They gave the castle its preserved Schloß von Cronberg, who had his residence in
winding stairs and the opulent Weikers heim, Mergentheim, became de facto Grand Master.
decor of the staircase. The the palace Napoleon abolished the Order in 1809, but it
Baroque-Rococo Schlosskirche Figure of drummer complex of the still exists today, with its headquarters based
dominates the complex. Its in Weikersheim’s Counts von in Vienna since 1848.
Scenic castle ruins in Wertheim interior was designed by François Hofgarten Hohenlohe, which
For hotels and restaurants in this area see pp497–8 and pp522–4


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Eyewitness Travel LAYERS PRINTED:
Catalogue template “UK” LAYER
(Source v2.2)
Date 15th January 2013
Size 125mm x 217mm

BADEN-W Ü R T TEMBERG  297


de Cuvilliés, while the ceiling dates from the 16th–18th
fresco (The Victorious Cross) is centuries. Its highlight is
the work of Nicolaus Stuber. undoubtedly the vast Rittersaal,
The castle is now the home of a sumptuous banqueting hall
a very interesting museum, that measures 35 m (115 ft)
the Deutschordens museum. long x 12 m (39 ft) wide x 9 m
Many of the town’s historic (29 ft) high. The counts and
buildings survive to this day, their aristocratic guests used to
including the 13th-century enter this room on horseback.
Church of the Knights of St John Its very rare, original furnishings
of Jerusalem and the Dominican include paintings and reliefs
church containing the epitaph depicting hunting scenes.
of the Grand Master Walther A true rarity is the original
von Cronberg. The Pfarrkirche Baroque Hofgarten (palace
(Parish church) in the Stuppach garden), designed by Daniel
district contains a masterpiece Matthieu and built in 1709.
by Grünewald (1519), known as
the Madonna of Stuppach. + Schloß Weikersheim
Tel (07934) 992 950. Open Apr–Oct:
R Pfarrkirche in Stuppach 9am–6pm daily; Nov–Mar: 10am–
Grünewald Straße 45. Tel (07931) 26 noon & 1–5pm daily. & 8 Altar by Tilman Riemenschneider, in
05. Open May–Oct: 8:30am–6:30pm E Tauberländer Dorfmuseum Creglingen’s Herrgottskirche
daily; Mar, Apr & Nov: 11am–4pm. & Marktplatz. Tel (07934) 12 09. Open
E Deutschordensmuseum Apr–Oct: 1.30–5pm Fri–Sun. & altar for the church. The main
Schloß. Tel (07931) 522 12. theme of the polyptych is
Open Apr–Oct: 10:30am–5pm Tue– the Assumption of the Virgin
Sun; Nov–Mar: 2–5pm Tue–Sat, 5 Creglingen Mary, considered to be the
10:30am–5pm Sun. & artist’s masterpiece.
Road map C5. * 5,000. @ n Bad The town is also home to
Mergentheimer Straße (07933-6 31). the famous Fingerhutmuseum
4 Weikersheim Upstream from Weikersheim, (Thimble Museum).
on the Bavarian border, is the
Road map C5. * 8,000. n Am small town of Creglingen. Here, R Herrgottskirche
Marktplatz 7 (07934-102 55).
sometime in the distant past, a Schirmbacher Straße 16. Tel (07933)
Eleven kilometres (7 miles) ploughman found a luminous 338 or 508. Open Feb–Mar & Nov–
east of Bad Mergentheim is holy wafer in a clod of earth Dec: 1–4pm Tue–Sun; Apr–Oct:
the picturesque little town and within a few years, the 9:15am–6pm daily. &
of Weikersheim. A Rococo Herrgotts kirche was built, E Fingerhutmuseum
fountain from 1768 is at the where the host was put on Kohlersmühle 6. Tel (07933) 370.
centre of the market square display for visiting pilgrims. Open Apr–Oct: 10am–12:30pm &
while the late-Gothic parish Between 1502 and 1506 Tilman 2–5pm Tue–Sun; Nov–Mar: 1–4pm
church is on the north side. The Riemenschneider carved an Tue–Sun. Closed Jan & Feb. &
latter is a triple-nave hall-church
with a single-tower western
façade and two towers by the Teutonic Order
choir. Inside are many tombs The Order of the Hospital of St Mary of the German
of the von Hohenlohe House in Jerusalem was officially founded in Acre
family. Also on the (Akkon) in 1190. Its aim was to care for sick
market square pilgrims or Crusaders wounded in fights with
stands the the Saracens. In 1231–83, the Teutonic Knights
Tauberländer took over all of Prussia and, in 1308–09 all
Dorfmuseum, Eastern Pomerania around Danzig, and they
which charts the moved their headquarters from Venice to
history of rural life Marienburg on the river Nogat. In 1525 the
in Franconia. In Grand Master, Albrecht von Hohenzollern-
the western part Ansbach, converted to Lutheranism and
of town stands secularized Teutonic Prussia. However, the
Order remained in existence in the Holy
the very well Roman Empire: its German Master, Walter
preserved Schloß von Cronberg, who had his residence in
Weikers heim, Mergentheim, became de facto Grand Master.
the palace Napoleon abolished the Order in 1809, but it
Figure of drummer complex of the still exists today, with its headquarters based
in Weikersheim’s Counts von in Vienna since 1848.
Hofgarten Hohenlohe, which




296-297_EW_Germany.indd 297 09/10/17 1:00 pm

298  SOUTHERN GERM AN Y BADEN-W Ü R T TEMBERG  299


With over 400 rooms, this collection of historic machinery. Balthasar Neumann, with
became one of the largest and Mann heim saw the first official stuccowork by Johann Michael
most opulent of all German demonstration of many Feuchtmayer and paintings by
palaces. Like the residences of inventions that have now Johann and Januarius Zick.
many European rulers at that become part of everyday life. In The palace suffered severe
time, it was modelled on 1817, Baron Karl Friedrich von bomb damage in 1945, but its
Versailles. The main palace has a Sauerbronn demonstrated his major part was reconstructed
horseshoe layout, and its first bicycle in the town and, in between 1964 and 1975.
symmetry is emphasized by a 1886, Carl Friedrich Benz St Peter’s church was built in
central projecting entrance. unveiled his first automobile, 1740–49 by Johann Georg to
Building work was done by produced at the nearby factory. Balthasar Neumann’s 1736
Johann Clemens Froimont, design. The church features
Alessandro Galli da Bibiena, E Kunsthalle Mannheim magnificent Baroque tombs of
Nicolas de Pigage and Friedrichsplatz 4. Tel (0621) 293 64 52. Schönborn and his successor
Guillaume d’Hauberat. Closed until the end of 2017; Cardinal Franz Christoph von
The second largest town of thereafter closed Carnival, 1 May, Baroque Schwetzingen Palace, set amid beautiful gardens Hutten. The palace garden was
the region, Mannheim boasts 24, 31 Dec. & designed in the French style by
many other historic buildings, E TECHNOSEUM conversion of the 16th-century palace to be built for himself Johann Scheer.
including the post-Jesuit Museumsstraße 1. Tel (0621) 429 89. hunting lodge was carried out and his court. The foundation This former residence of
Church of St Ignatius and St Open 9am–5pm daily. Closed Good by J A Breuning and the side stone of Schloß Bruchsal was prince-bishops now houses a
Francis Xavier, designed by Friday, 24, 31 Dec. & wings were built by Alessandro laid in 1722 and the building section of the Karlsruhe Museum,
The Wasserturm (Water Tower) in Alessandro Galli da Bibiena and E Reiss-Engelhorn-Museen Galli da Bibiena. The works were carried out which features Germany’s largest
Friedrichsplatz, Mannheim built in 1733–60. Original wall- Quadrat D5 and C5. Tel (0621) 293 31 magnificent Rococo by Maximilian von collection of Flemish and French
paintings by Egid Quirin Asam 50. Open 11am–6pm Tue–Sun. & theatre, designed by Welsch, who was tapestries. It is also home to the
6 Mannheim no longer exist, but the altars ∑ rem-mannheim.de Nicolas de Pigage, responsible for the Deutsches Musik automaten
have survived to this day. was built in 1752, right wing, and Museum, which includes 500
Road map B5. * 326,000. £
n Willy-Brandt-Platz 3 (0621-29 38 These include JI Saler’s while the palace Michael Rohrer, who mechanical musical instruments.
700). _ Mannheim-Heidelberger Silver Madonna in Radiant garden is the work of built the left wing Short demonstra tions are given
Filmfestival (mid-Oct). ∑ tourist- Glory (1747). Also worth Johann Ludwig Petri, between 1723 on these throughout the day.
mannheim.de visiting are the Baroque who designed it in the and 1728. The main
Altes Rathaus (1701–23) French style. The garden body, preceded by a + Schloß Bruchsal
Mannheim existed as a fishing and Secessionist includes a mosque with ceremonial courtyard, Schönbornstraße 2. Tel (07251) 74 26
hamlet as far back as 766. In buildings in two minarets and a was designed by 61. Open 10am–5pm Tue–Sun & hols.
1606, Elector Frederick IV the Friedrichsplatz such bathhouse. In 1776 Heraldic insignia from Baron Anselm von 8 hourly. Closed 24, 25, 31 Dec. &
Righteous ordered a fortress to as the Kunsthalle and Friedrich Ludwig von Bruchsal Palace Grünstein. The central Deutsches Musikautomaten Museum:
be built on the site, at the Wasserturm – the Sckell converted it into part of the palace is Open 10am–5pm Tue–Sun. 8 11am,
junction of the rivers Rhine and symbol of Mannheim. an English-style garden. occupied by a magnificent 3pm. Closed Shrove Tuesday, 24, 25,
Neckar. A trading settlement The town has several staircase built by the great 31 Dec. & ∑ schloss-bruchsal.de
sprang up nearby and was soon interesting museums: the + Schloß Schwetzingen
granted town status. Having Kunsthalle Mannheim Tel (06202) 12 88 28. Schloß:
been repeatedly destroyed has a large collection of Open The palace can only be visited
through the years, the town 19th- and 20th-century on a guided tour. 8 obligatory. Tours
was finally rebuilt in Baroque art, including Francis in English Sun at 2:15pm. Garden:
style during the reign of Bacon’s Study After Paul Cézanne’s Pipe Smoker (c.1890), in the Tel (06202) 65 88 80. Open Apr–Oct:
the Elector Johann Wilhelm. Velasquez’s Portrait of Städtische Kunsthalle, Mannheim 9am–8pm daily; Nov–Mar: 9am–5pm
The town-centre Pope Innocent X. daily. ∑ schloss-schwetzingen.de
layout follows the The museum is
regular Baroque renowned for its 7 Schwetzingen
pattern of the early major temporary Road map C6. * 21,500. 8 Bruchsal
18th century, when exhibitions. The n Dreikönigstraße 3 (06202-87 400). Road map: C6. * 43,000. £ n Am
the town was Reiss-Engelhorn- _ Schwetzinger Festspiele (May), Alten Schloß 2 (07251-505 94 61).
divided into 136 Museen has a fine Mozartkonzerte (Sep).
regular squares. In collection of Bruchsal belonged to the
1720, when Elector 18th-century Dutch Schwetzingen’s Baroque- Bishops of Speyer from 1056
Charles III Philip paintings and sections Renaissance palace was built until 1803, since when it has
decided to move devoted to early history during the reign of the Electors been part of Baden. The town
his residence from and ethnography. Johann Wilhelm, Charles II Philip rose to prominence in the
Heidelberg to Another big attraction and Karl Theodor as their 17th century, when the Prince-
Mannheim, the in Mannheim is the summer residence. Erected Bishop of Speyer, Damian
foundation stone TECHNOSEUM on the site of a medieval castle Hugo von Schönborn moved
for a Baroque (Museum of Techno- that was later converted into a his residence from Speyer to
palace was laid in logy and Labour). hunting lodge, it is one of the Bruchsal. He not only initiated
the grounds of a Statue of Elector Karl Theodor Opened in 1990, best known palace complexes the town’s development but,
former citadel. in Mannheim’s Jesuitenkirche this houses a of 18th-century Europe. The most importantly, ordered a Central façade of the Baroque Schloß Bruchsal
For hotels and restaurants in this area see pp497–8 and pp522–4



298-299_EW_Germany.indd 298 09/10/17 1:00 pm 298-299_EW_Germany.indd 299 09/10/17 1:00 pm
Eyewitness Travel LAYERS PRINTED:
Catalogue template “UK” LAYER
(Source v2.2)
Date 15th January 2013
Size 125mm x 217mm