(DK Eyewitness) Travel Guide - Germany

RHINELAND–P ALA TINA TE & SAARLAND  349


3 Moseltal

The Mosel river, 545 km (338 miles) long, is one of
the longest tributaries of the Rhine. The Mosel valley
between Trier and Koblenz, where the Mosel flows
into the Rhine, is one of the most beautiful parts of
Germany. On both sides of the river, romantic castles
tower over endless vineyards, where excellent white 2 Burg Thurant Near the town
grapes are grown – both are typical features of the of Alken stands Thurant castle,
charming landscape. which was built in the 13th century.
It is the only twin-towered castle
along the Mosel.
1 Matthias-Kapelle This late-Romanesque
chapel was once used to house the remains
of the Apostle Matthew. These were later
transferred to the Matthiaskirche in Trier.
5 Burg Pyrmont Pyrmont’s
grim 13th-century medieval
castle was remodelled and
extended several times
during the Baroque era.

6 Cochem The castle in
Cochem, originally built in
the 11th century, was
completely destroyed by
French soldiers in 1689. The
present castle was rebuilt
in the 19th century. J


J Mosal Baybach





J Diinnbach
Bremm
3 Ehrenburg The first
fortress, rising to 235 m
(771 ft) above sea level, was
built in 1120. It was frequently
remodelled in later years.
4 Burg Eltz The von Eltz family
castle, whose history goes back Tips for Drivers
to the 16th century, remains in
private hands to this day, but it Length of the route: about
is open to visitors. 75 km (46 miles).
7 Burg Arras This fortress Stopping-off points: there are
was built around 900–950 Key numerous restaurants and cafés
as part of the fortifications Suggested route in Cochem; small pubs can be
against frequent pillaging Scenic route found along the entire route.
raids by Normans. Additional attractions: a boat
Other road
trip on the Mosel River, from
0 km 5 River, lake Koblenz to Cochem or Trier.
0 miles 5 Viewpoint





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350  WESTERN GERM AN Y RHINELAND P ALA TINA TE & SAARLAND  351


when the newly anointed bishop
would order it to be filled with 6 Deutsche Weinstraße
wine right to the brim in order
to win the hearts of his flock. The “German Wine Route” starts in Bockenheim
Another 11th-century and ends in Schweigen, near the Alsatian town of
interesting building is the Weißenburg. The tour suggested here includes the
Mikwe in Judenbadgasse, a
ritual Jewish bath for women, most interesting sections of this route. This is one of
and the remains of a synagogue the most beautiful parts of Germany, where visitors
nearby. To the west of the will encounter aspects of German and European
Dom stand the remains of the historical and cultural heritage at every step, 8 Bad Dürkheim
medieval fortifications including set among the picturesque scenery of the This famous resort is
the Altpörtel, a 14th- to 16th- endless vineyards covering the sun- best known for its
century town gate. The late- Tombstones in the Heiliger Sand Jewish annual Wurstmarkt,
Baroque Dreifaltigkeits kirche cemetery in Worms drenched slopes of the Pfälzer Wald. held in September.
(church of the Holy Trinity), Despite its name, it
Altar in the Dreifaltigkeitskirche, in Speyer built in 1701–17, is an Neumann, and the stalls dating 6 St Martin 7 Hambacher Schloß NATURPARK celebrates the wine
architectural masterpiece with from 1760. A short distance from Not much remains The castle’s fame is based PFALZER WALD harvest, and sausages
4 Speyer marvellous interiors. the cathedral is the Marktplatz of the Romanesque on the Hambacher Fest take second place.
(market square), with the church of St Martin, when, on 27 May 1832,
Road map B6. * 47,000. £ but the 16–18th- students protested against
n Maximilianstraße 13 (06232-14 23 5 Worms interesting Dreifaltigkeits­ century buildings the fragmentation of
92). _ Brezelfest (Jul), Kaisertafel (Aug), kirche church of the Holy Trinity surviving in the Germany. It was restored
Altstadtfest (Sep), Bauernmarkt (Sep). Road map B5. * 83,000. £ (1709–25). Northeast of the town continue to and is now a national 5 Landau
n Neumarkt 14 (06241-853 7306). square stands the Stiftskirche enchant visitors. monument and museum. This little town
In the 7th century, Speyer was St Paul (church of St Paul), built has the remains of
the seat of a diocese. As a free Worms is one of the oldest in the 11th–12th centuries and 4 Trifels the fortress built
city of the Holy Roman Empire towns in Germany. In the Middle completed in the 18th century, This grim, ruined castle once served as a by Vauban, and
from 1294 until 1779, 50 sessions Ages it was the home of the with original 13th century wall prison for many important people, including J an extraordinarily
of the imperial parliament took Reich’s Parliament, hosting more paintings. Nearby is the only the King of England, Richard the Lionheart. J beautiful post-
place here. The most famous than 100 sessions. The Dom St surviving Renaissance Augustinian
church.
session was in 1529, when the Peter is one of the largest residential building in
Protestant states of the Holy late-Romanesque Worms, the Rotes
Roman Empire lodged a cathedrals in Haus (red house).
protest (hence “Protestant”) Germany, along In the western part
against the decisions of the with the cathedrals of the old town is the
Catholic majority. in Mainz and Heili ger Sand (holy
The most important historic Speyer. It was built sands), the oldest
building in Speyer is the in 1171–1230 as a Jewish cemetery in
Romanesque Kaiserdom (St two-choir basilica, Europe; the earliest
Maria und St Stephan), a World with eastern A relief from 1488, in the tombstones date
Heritage Site. For a time, before transept, four Dom in Worms from the 11th and 3 Leinsweiler J
being superseded by the towers and two 12th centuries. Also Hilltop Hof
gigantic abbey of Cluny in domes. Its northern nave worth a visit is the 14th-century Neukastel was J
Burgundy, this was the largest includes five beautiful sand- Liebfrauenkirche (Church of Our once the home J
monumental Romanesque stone reliefs from a Gothic Dear Lady). The most noteworthy of the German 2 Bad Bergzabern
building in Europe. The Dom, cloister, which no longer exists. feature of the Magnuskirche impressionist This town has some interesting
built in 1025–61 on the initiative The interior furnishings date (11th–12th centuries) is its artist Max Renaissance remains, including
of Conrad II, is a triple-nave, mainly from modern times. crypt, from around AD 800, Slevogt, and to Kingbeach the Gasthaus zum Engel
this day, wall
cross-vaulted basilica with Particularly note worthy is the while the Stiftskirche paintings by (Angel’s Inn) and a royal castle.
transept, vestibule, choir, high altar designed in St Martin (late 11th the artist can
apse and several towers. Its the 18th century century) has some be seen here.
magnificent triple-nave crypt, by Balthasar interesting portals. J Tips for Drivers
the burial place of Salian
emperors, has stunning stone 0 km 5 Length: 83 km (51 miles).
carvings, some worked by 0 miles 5 Stopping-off points: Landau
Lombard stonemasons. St Afra’s, has many cafés and restaurants.
dating from around 1100, has Key The spa town of Bad Dürkheim,
some interesting sculptures, Suggested route with its cafés and wine bars, is
including Christ Bearing His Cross 1 Dörrenbach Scenic route also a good place to stop.
and Annunciation (around 1470). The star attractions in this small Other road Signs: Look for signposts
The Domnapf, a vast stone bowl town are the half- timbered town showing a bunch of grapes or
seen at the cathedral forecourt, hall and the Gothic church River, lake a wine jug.
dates from 1490. It was used surrounded by fortifications. Viewpoint
during enthroning ceremonies, The vast Romanesque Dom St Peter in WormsThe vast Romanesque Dom St Peter in Worms
For hotels and restaurants in this area see p499 and pp524–5


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RHINELAND P ALA TINA TE & SAARLAND  351


6 Deutsche Weinstraße

The “German Wine Route” starts in Bockenheim
and ends in Schweigen, near the Alsatian town of
Weißenburg. The tour suggested here includes the
most interesting sections of this route. This is one of
the most beautiful parts of Germany, where visitors
will encounter aspects of German and European
historical and cultural heritage at every step, 8 Bad Dürkheim
set among the picturesque scenery of the This famous resort is
best known for its
endless vineyards covering the sun- annual Wurstmarkt,
drenched slopes of the Pfälzer Wald. held in September.
Despite its name, it
6 St Martin 7 Hambacher Schloß NATURPARK celebrates the wine
Not much remains The castle’s fame is based PFALZER WALD harvest, and sausages
of the Romanesque on the Hambacher Fest take second place.
church of St Martin, when, on 27 May 1832,
but the 16–18th- students protested against
century buildings the fragmentation of
surviving in the Germany. It was restored
5 Landau
town continue to and is now a national This little town
enchant visitors. monument and museum. has the remains of
4 Trifels the fortress built
This grim, ruined castle once served as a by Vauban, and
prison for many important people, including J an extraordinarily
the King of England, Richard the Lionheart. J beautiful post-
Augustinian
church.








3 Leinsweiler J
Hilltop Hof
Neukastel was J
once the home
of the German J 2 Bad Bergzabern
impressionist This town has some interesting
artist Max Renaissance remains, including
Slevogt, and to the Gasthaus zum Engel
this day, wall Kingbeach (Angel’s Inn) and a royal castle.
paintings by
the artist can
be seen here.
J Tips for Drivers
0 km 5 Length: 83 km (51 miles).
0 miles 5 Stopping-off points: Landau
has many cafés and restaurants.
Key The spa town of Bad Dürkheim,
Suggested route with its cafés and wine bars, is
1 Dörrenbach Scenic route also a good place to stop.
The star attractions in this small Other road Signs: Look for signposts
town are the half- timbered town showing a bunch of grapes or
hall and the Gothic church River, lake a wine jug.
surrounded by fortifications. Viewpoint
The vast Romanesque Dom St Peter in Worms




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352  WESTERN GERM AN Y M AINZ  353

7 Mainz pleasant square with a statue VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
of the inventor. Set in its paving
The town, which grew out of the Roman military camp stones is a line marking the 50th Practical Information
Moguntiacum established in 39 BC, is today the capital of parallel. The Staatstheater (state Road map B5. * 190,000.
n Brückenturm, Rheinstraße 55
the Rhineland-Palatinate. Mainz is the home of an important theatre) in the square is a late (06131-24 28 88). _ Mainzer
German television station (ZDF). It is also the main centre of Neo-Classical building (1829–33). Fastnacht (Jan/Feb), Johannis-
trade for the popular Rhine wines. Its splendid late-Roman- nacht (Jun), OpenOhr Festival
esque cathedral symbolizes the power of the Kurfürsten, (Whitsun), Mainzer Zeltfestival
the prince-electors, who used to crown German kings. (end of Jun/early Jul) Weinforum
Rheinhessen (Oct). ∑ mainz.de
Indisput ably the town’s most famous son is Johannes
Gutenberg – the inventor of printing. Transport
£ k Frankfurt am Main, 38 km
(23 miles) east.
P Kurfürstliches Schloß type. The letters were cast in
Peter-Altmeier-Allee. a special apparatus and set Landing stage for boats on the Rhine
Römisch-Germanisches in columns. Gutenberg Roman engin eers. Although
Zentralmuseum. himself prepared the Bible beautiful blue background, some 100 years later. The niche some of its pillars were 23 m
Tel (06131) 91 240. for printing and they depict biblical scenes, below the tower contains the (75 ft) high, the present remains
Open 10am–6pm publication in 1454–5. including Abraham with the Holy Tomb (around 1450). only reach up to 10 m (32 ft).
Tue–Sun. From the original 200 three travellers, the Patriarch
Construction of the copies, only 46 have pleading to God to spare the T Römersteine Environs
Baroque electoral survived to this day. Historic half-timbered houses righteous in Sodom and Southeast of the University The pride of Oppenheim, a
palace, which began The museum, which in Kirschgarten Gomorrah, Jacob’s dream, and campus are the impressive centre of the wine trade 20 km
in 1627 during the opened in 1900, shows a Moses with the Tablets of the remains of the Roman aqueduct, (12 miles) to the south, is its
rule of Archbishop reconstruction of the P Kirschgarten Ten Commandments. dating from the 1st century AD. Gothic Katharinenkirche, a
Georg von Greifenclau, master’s workshop from Near the Baroque hospital of The church interior contains The Zahlbach valley was a church built of red sandstone
was completed more 1450. The collection St Roch, built in 1721 and now many other interesting orig inal vantage point for the in the 13th–14th centuries.
than a century later, comprises priceless early an old people’s home, runs a features. The four large brass southwestern flank of the Roman The neighbouring hill and the
in 1775–6, under books, including the street called Kirschgarten candelabra were cast in Mainz camp, Castrum Moguntiacum, ruins of Landskron castle
Johann Fried rich Carl Gutenberg Bible and (cherry orchard). This is one of in 1509. The small polyptych but it presen ted a major provide the most spectacular
Joseph von Erthal. Statue of Gutenberg the Psalter published the loveliest parts of old Mainz, depicting the Crucifixion dates technical problem of supplying view over the Rhine valley. The
Today the palace in Gutenbergplatz in 1457 by Fust & which suffered serious damage from around 1400, while its the camp with drinking water. Weinbaumuseum, museum of
houses the fascinating Schöffer, Gutenberg’s in World War II. The well- movable wings were made The aqueduct was built by viticulture, is also worth visiting.
museum of Roman and erst while partners and latterday preserved complex of historic
Germanic history. creditors. The Psalter was the first half-timbered houses, dating
work to be printed using three from the 16th–18th centuries, Mainz City Centre
E Gutenberg-Museum different colours of ink. makes this district worth visiting Kurfürstliches RHEINALLEE
Liebfrauenplatz 5. Tel (06131) 12 26 40. and a pleasant place for a stroll. 1 Kurfürstliches Schloß Schloss
RHEINU FE R
Open 9am–5pm Tue–Sat, 11am–5pm P Mainzer Dom 2 Gutenberg-Museum
Flughafen
Sun. Closed public holidays. & See pp354–5. R St Stephan-Kirche 3 Mainzer Dom Deutschhaus 25 km (15 miles)
∑ gutenberg-museum.de Kleine Weißgasse 12. Tel (06131) 23 4 Gutenbergplatz KAISER-FRIEDRICH-STR. Jupiter-
Johannes Gensfleisch zum P Gutenbergplatz 16 40. Open Mar–Oct: 10am–5pm 5 Kirschgarten BAUHOFSTRASSE saule
Gutenberg became famous as A short distance from the Mon–Sat, noon–5pm Sun; Nov–Feb: 6 St Stephan-Kirche St Peter
the inventor of the printing Protestant parish church of 10am–4:30pm Mon–Sat, noon– HINTERE BLEICHE Zeughaus Rhein
process using movable metal St John is Gutenbergplatz, a 4:30pm Sun. MITTLERE BLEICHE Landesmuseum
This Gothic parish church was Mainz BAUERNGASSE ADE NAU ERU FE R
built in stages on the site of an BOPPSTRASSE EMMERANSSTRASSE KARMELITERSTR.
edifice dating from the 10th Hauptbahnhof
200m (220 yards)
century. Construction began GROSSE BLEICHE KLARASTRASSE Eiserner RHEINSTRASSE
Turm
in the mid-13th century and BAHNHOF STEINGASSE STADTHAUSSTRASSE SCHUSTERSTRASSE Knebelscher
continued until the end of the STRASSE Hof Rathaus
Domus
15th century. The resulting BINGER STR. Universitatis MAILANDSGASSE
church is a triple-nave hall with UMBACH GROSSE LANGGASSE MARKT Gutenberg-
Museum
eastern transept and a single- SCHILLERSTRASSE Staatsheater SCHÖFFERSTR. LIEBFRAUEN-
Mainz
PLATZ
nave choir. The adjacent late ALICENSTRASSE MÜNSTERSTRASSE Mainzer
15th-century cloisters are a true WALPODENSTRASSE LUDWIGSSTR. GUTENBERG- Dom GALLUSGASSE OPPENHEIM
PLATZ
GREBENSTRASSE
gem of late-Gothic design. The Fastnacht- NASENGÄSSCHEN
original stained-glass windows brunnen H IMM ELG.
in the presbytery, destroyed in KUPFERBERGTERRASSE W EISSLILIENGASSE KIRSCH- AUGUSTINERSTR.
World War II, were replaced by GAUSTRASSE STEFANS BERG GARTEN BADERG.
six new ones in 1978–81, 0 metres 250
Kirche
designed and partly made by St Stephan
The Baroque Kurfürstliches Schloß and museum Marc Chagall. Set against a 0 yards 250 STEFANSTRASSE
For hotels and restaurants in this area see p499 and pp524–5 Römersteine For key to symbols see back flap
352-353_EW_Germany.indd 352 09/10/17 2:30 pm 352-353_EW_Germany.indd 353 09/10/17 2:30 pm
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Date 15th January 2013
Size 125mm x 217mm

M AINZ  353


VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
Practical Information
Road map B5. * 190,000.
n Brückenturm, Rheinstraße 55
(06131-24 28 88). _ Mainzer
Fastnacht (Jan/Feb), Johannis-
nacht (Jun), OpenOhr Festival
(Whitsun), Mainzer Zeltfestival
(end of Jun/early Jul) Weinforum
Rheinhessen (Oct). ∑ mainz.de
Transport
£ k Frankfurt am Main, 38 km
(23 miles) east.
Landing stage for boats on the Rhine
Roman engin eers. Although
beautiful blue background, some 100 years later. The niche some of its pillars were 23 m
they depict biblical scenes, below the tower contains the (75 ft) high, the present remains
including Abraham with the Holy Tomb (around 1450). only reach up to 10 m (32 ft).
three travellers, the Patriarch
pleading to God to spare the T Römersteine Environs
righteous in Sodom and Southeast of the University The pride of Oppenheim, a
Gomorrah, Jacob’s dream, and campus are the impressive centre of the wine trade 20 km
Moses with the Tablets of the remains of the Roman aqueduct, (12 miles) to the south, is its
Ten Commandments. dating from the 1st century AD. Gothic Katharinenkirche, a
The church interior contains The Zahlbach valley was a church built of red sandstone
many other interesting orig inal vantage point for the in the 13th–14th centuries.
features. The four large brass southwestern flank of the Roman The neighbouring hill and the
candelabra were cast in Mainz camp, Castrum Moguntiacum, ruins of Landskron castle
in 1509. The small polyptych but it presen ted a major provide the most spectacular
depicting the Crucifixion dates technical problem of supplying view over the Rhine valley. The
from around 1400, while its the camp with drinking water. Weinbaumuseum, museum of
movable wings were made The aqueduct was built by viticulture, is also worth visiting.

Mainz City Centre
1 Kurfürstliches Schloß Kurfürstliches RHEINALLEE
Schloss
2 Gutenberg-Museum
RHEINU FE R
3 Mainzer Dom 25 km (15 miles)
Flughafen
4 Gutenbergplatz KAISER-FRIEDRICH-STR. Jupiter- Deutschhaus
5 Kirschgarten BAUHOFSTRASSE saule
6 St Stephan-Kirche St Peter
HINTERE BLEICHE Landesmuseum Zeughaus Rhein
MITTLERE BLEICHE
BAUERNGASSE
Mainz
Hauptbahnhof BOPPSTRASSE EMMERANSSTRASSE KARMELITERSTR. ADE NAU ERU FE R
200m (220 yards) Eiserner
GROSSE BLEICHE KLARASTRASSE SCHUSTERSTRASSE Turm RHEINSTRASSE
STEINGASSE STADTHAUSSTRASSE Knebelscher
Hof
Rathaus
BAHNHOF
STRASSE
BINGER STR. Domus MAILANDSGASSE
Universitatis Gutenberg-
Museum
Staatsheater SCHÖFFERSTR. MARKT LIEBFRAUEN-
Mainz PLATZ
SCHILLERSTRASSE
UMBACH GROSSE LANGGASSE
LUDWIGSSTR. GUTENBERG- Mainzer GALLUSGASSE OPPENHEIM
MÜNSTERSTRASSE
Dom
PLATZ
ALICENSTRASSE
GREBENSTRASSE
Fastnacht- NASENGÄSSCHEN
WALPODENSTRASSE
brunnen W EISSLILIENGASSE AUGUSTINERSTR. H IMM ELG.
GARTEN
GAUSTRASSE STEFANS BERG KIRSCH- BADERG.
KUPFERBERGTERRASSE
0 metres 250 Kirche
St Stephan
0 yards 250 STEFANSTRASSE
Römersteine For key to symbols see back flap
352-353_EW_Germany.indd 353 09/10/17 2:30 pm

354  WESTERN GERM AN Y M AINZ  355

Mainzer Dom . Monument of Heinrich VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
Ferdinand von der Leyen
The greatest attraction of Mainz is its superb St Martin This Baroque monument of the Practical Information
cathedral, gleaming red in the sunshine. Together with Dom rector, the work Dom: Markt 10. Tel (06131) 25 34
of Johann Mauritz
those of Speyer and Worms it is one of the only three Gröninger, was 12. Open Mar–Oct: 9am–6.30pm
Mon–Fri, 9am–4pm Sat, 12.45–
Romanesque imperial cathedrals to have survived almost erected during his 3pm & 4–6.30pm Sun; Nov–Feb:
intact to this day. Its basic framework was laid out in 1081– lifetime, in 1706. 9am–5pm Mon–Fri, 9am–4pm
1137 and 1183–1239, but its oldest parts date from the Sat, 12.45–3pm & 4–5pm Sun.
early 11th century, with the Gothic side chapels added Bischöfliches Dom- und
Diözesanmuseum: Domstraße 3.
during the 13th and 14th centuries. Although neither Tel (06131) 25 33 44.
the Gothic altars nor the magnificent choir screen have Open 10am– 5pm Tue–Fri,
survived to this day, it is still possible to see the large group 11am–6pm Sat & Sun.
of bishops’ monuments from the 13th to the 19th century.



Pulpit
This Neo-Gothic pulpit
was made in 1834 by Portal of the “Memorie”
Joseph Scholl. Burial Chapel
The late-Gothic portal, leading
to the Romanesque burial chapel
of the cathedral canons, was
made by Madern Gerthener,
after 1425.






St Martin’s Choir
The late-Romanesque western choir
with its trefoil closing is an early
13th-century addition.












St Stephen’s Choir
The Romanesque eastern choir, one Main entrance
of the first parts to be built, is simpler in
style than other parts of the cathedral.
. Stalls
These superb Rococo oak stalls encircle
KEY almost the entire presbytery. They were
Tomb of Jakob created by Franz Anton Hermann, who
1 Round staircase towers are von Liebenstein completed them in 1767.
from the previous building, built in The late-Gothic tomb of the
the early 11th century. archbishop von Liebenstein, who
2 Two large and two small died in 1508, is the work of an
towers are symmetrically positioned unknown artist. It depicts the
on the ends of the cathedral. deceased in draped robes, lying
under an ornate canopy.
For hotels and restaurants in this area see p499 and pp524–5


354-355_EW_Germany.indd 354 09/10/17 2:30 pm 354-355_EW_Germany.indd 355 09/10/17 2:30 pm
Eyewitness Travel LAYERS PRINTED:
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Date 6th February2013
Size 125mm x 217mm

M AINZ  355


. Monument of Heinrich VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
Ferdinand von der Leyen
This Baroque monument of the Practical Information
Dom rector, the work Dom: Markt 10. Tel (06131) 25 34
of Johann Mauritz 12. Open Mar–Oct: 9am–6.30pm
Gröninger, was Mon–Fri, 9am–4pm Sat, 12.45–
erected during his 3pm & 4–6.30pm Sun; Nov–Feb:
lifetime, in 1706. 9am–5pm Mon–Fri, 9am–4pm
Sat, 12.45–3pm & 4–5pm Sun.
Bischöfliches Dom- und
Diözesanmuseum: Domstraße 3.
Tel (06131) 25 33 44.
Open 10am– 5pm Tue–Fri,
11am–6pm Sat & Sun.





















St Martin’s Choir
The late-Romanesque western choir
with its trefoil closing is an early
13th-century addition.













Main entrance

. Stalls
These superb Rococo oak stalls encircle
almost the entire presbytery. They were
Tomb of Jakob created by Franz Anton Hermann, who
von Liebenstein completed them in 1767.
The late-Gothic tomb of the
archbishop von Liebenstein, who
died in 1508, is the work of an
unknown artist. It depicts the
deceased in draped robes, lying
under an ornate canopy.




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358  WESTERN GERM AN Y RHINELAND–P ALA TINA TE & SAARLAND  359


8 Rhine Valley (Rheintal) Bonn LimburgLimburg 8 Marksburg From 1117 this castle, which towers
over the Rhine and the small town of Braubach,
The Celts called it Renos, the Romans Rhenus, Rhein Bendorf has been owned at different times by the von
while to Germanic tribes it was the Rhein, or Braubachs and the powerful Epstein family. The
Marksburg is the only castle along this stretch
Vater Rhein (“Father Rhine”), as it is known of the Rhine which has never been damaged.
today. The source of this mighty, 1,320-km
Bad Ems
(825-mile) long river is in Switzerland, from Siegen Bad Ems
where it flows through or past Liechtenstein, KoblenzKoblenz
Germany, France and the Netherlands, yet the
Germans regard it as “their” river. The Rhine
is steeped in many legends – it was into this Trier Bad EmsBad Ems
river that Hagen von Tronje, faithful follower
of King Gunther and slayer of Siegfried, 7 Loreley The Loreley Rock, onto which many
threw the treasure of the Nibelungs, and Saarbrücken boats have been smashed by the strong currents,
Lohengrin’s swan is said to appear near has been a source of inspiration for many poets.
the town of Kleve (see p393) to this day. A 19th-century legend tells of a beautiful blonde
siren combing her hair and luring unlucky
sailors to their deaths with her song.
J
1 Stolzenfels The existing
castle complex has little in 4 Pfalzgrafenstein In the middle of
common with the original the Rhine River stands the proud and
13th-century fortress, which mighty fortress of Pfalzgrafenstein –
burned down in 1688. In the one of the most beautifully situated
early 19th century, the ruins castles in the Rhineland. Its origins date
were bought by the future back to 1326, but its present shape is
king Friedrich Wilhelm IV. Limburg the result of Baroque refurbishments
The castle, designed by the in the 17th–18th centuries.
famous Prussian architect
Karl Friedrich Schinkel, was
built in 1833–45.
0 kilometres 5
5 Bacharach The town has
0 miles 5 Saarbrücken
a unique complex of historic
buildings, with fortified town
walls, the church of St Peter,
Oberwesel the ruins of the Gothic chapel
Oberwesel
of St Werner, and Burg
Kaub
2 Boppard Boppard’s most Stahleck – the castle towering
famous sights are the remains of the over the town which today
Roman military camp of Bodobrica, houses a youth hostel.
the church of St Severus (12th–
13th centuries), famous for its wall Lorch 6 Burg Sooneck In the 13th century,
paintings, and the medieval market Sooneck castle was the home of various
square, built on the site of Roman robber knights. The fortress fell into ruin
hot baths. Michael Thonet, the in the late 17th century, due to frequent
creator of famous chairs made from raids by the French. In the 19th century it
bent wood, was born here in 1796. was bought by the Hohenzollerns, who
J rebuilt the castle in its original form.
Rüdesheim
Tips for Walkers
3 Burg Rheinfels This
Length of the route: about castle ruin was begun in
125 km (78 miles). 1245 by Count Diether V Bingen
Stopping-off points: the best of Katzenelnbogen, and Key
places to stop are Boppard or was partially destroyed by Motorway
Bacharach, offering the widest French Revolutionary army Suggested route
choice of bars and restaurants. troops in 1797. Some of
Further attractions: a boat trip the outer buildings are a Scenic route
on the Rhine river, from Koblenz luxury hotel, wellness River
to Mainz. Viewpoint
centre and restaurant. Kaiserslautern Mannheim
The River Mosel near Trittenheim, Rheinland-Palatinate For hotels and restaurants in this area see p499 and pp524–5
358-359_EW_Germany.indd 358 09/10/17 2:30 pm 358-359_EW_Germany.indd 359 09/10/17 2:30 pm
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Date 18th October 2012
Size 125mm x 217mm

RHINELAND–P ALA TINA TE & SAARLAND  359



Limburg 8 Marksburg From 1117 this castle, which towers
over the Rhine and the small town of Braubach,
has been owned at different times by the von
Braubachs and the powerful Epstein family. The
Marksburg is the only castle along this stretch
of the Rhine which has never been damaged.
Bad Ems
Koblenz


Bad Ems

7 Loreley The Loreley Rock, onto which many
boats have been smashed by the strong currents,
has been a source of inspiration for many poets.
A 19th-century legend tells of a beautiful blonde
siren combing her hair and luring unlucky
sailors to their deaths with her song.

4 Pfalzgrafenstein In the middle of
the Rhine River stands the proud and
mighty fortress of Pfalzgrafenstein –
one of the most beautifully situated
castles in the Rhineland. Its origins date
back to 1326, but its present shape is
Limburg the result of Baroque refurbishments
in the 17th–18th centuries.





5 Bacharach The town has
a unique complex of historic
buildings, with fortified town
walls, the church of St Peter,
Oberwesel the ruins of the Gothic chapel
of St Werner, and Burg
Kaub
Stahleck – the castle towering
over the town which today
houses a youth hostel.
Lorch 6 Burg Sooneck In the 13th century,
Sooneck castle was the home of various
robber knights. The fortress fell into ruin
in the late 17th century, due to frequent
raids by the French. In the 19th century it
was bought by the Hohenzollerns, who
J rebuilt the castle in its original form.
Rüdesheim


Bingen Key
Motorway
Suggested route
Scenic route
River
Viewpoint
Kaiserslautern Mannheim
For hotels and restaurants in this area see p499 and pp524–5



358-359_EW_Germany.indd 359 09/10/17 2:30 pm

360  WESTERN GERM AN Y RHINELAND-P ALA TINA TE AND SAARLAND  361

9 Koblenz beheaded for his crimes in 1536, R Liebfrauenkirche E Festung VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
who now sticks his tongue out An der Liebfrauenkirche 1. Ehrenbreitstein
The name which the Romans gave to their camp in 9 BC – every half hour. To its right stands Tel (0261) 315 50. Fortress Open Apr–Oct: Practical Information
castellum apud confluentes, meaning the “camp at the the late-Gothic Schöffenhaus, Open Apr–Oct: 8:15am– 10am–6pm daily; Nov–Mar: Road map: B5. * 109,300.
confluence” – reflects the town’s strategic importance, for it is and to its left is the Baroque 7pm daily; Nov–Mar: 10am–5pm daily. & n Bahnhofplatz 17 (0261-
here that the Mosel flows into the Rhine. From the Middle Ages Bürresheimer Hof, from 1659–60. 8:15am–6pm Mon–Sat, Landesmuseum Koblenz 19433). _ Internationale
9am–5pm Sun.
Tel (0261) 66750. Open
Musiktage (Mar/Apr), Altstadtfest
until the 19th century, Koblenz was the seat of the powerful P Mittelrhein-Museum Apr–Oct: 10am–6pm daily; mit dem Fest der Stadtteile (Jun/
archbishop-electors of Trier. It was also the birthplace of Zentralplatz 1. Tel (0261) 129 25 20. At the highest point in Nov–Mar: 10am–5pm Jul), Koblenzer Gauklerfest (Jul),
the old town stands the
Prince von Metternich, the 19th-century Austrian statesman. Open 10am–6pm Tue–Sun. Romanesque church of daily. & Rhein in Flammen (Aug),
Today it is a modern metropolis which attracts many visitors, ∑ mittelrhein-museum.de Our Dear Lady. Its history On the opposite side Schängelmarkt (Sep), Koblenzer
Mendelssohn-Tage (autumn).
and is the main centre of the region’s cultural life. The modern Forum Confluentes dates back to early of the Rhine stands the ∑ koblenz-touristik.de
building near the river houses Christian times, but its mighty fortress of
herrenhaus belonging to the the Mittelrhein-Museum, which present form is the Statue of Ehrenbreitstein, one of Transport
Order of Teutonic Knights. Only covers 2,000 years of Central result of remodelling the Madonna the largest in the world £
part of the three-wing residence Rhine region history. It houses work carried out in in Liebfrauenkirche and barely changed
of the Order’s Comm ander, built an impressive collection of 1182–1250. A triple- since Prussian days.
in the early 14th century, has archaeology and medieval art. nave basilica with galleries, it has A smaller fortress was erected on splendid views over Koblenz, the
survived. The building now One remarkable exhibit is the a twin-tower western façade. this site in 1000, and extended in Rhine and the Mosel. Today, it is
houses the Ludwig-Museum, original head of the Emperor The beautiful, elongated Gothic subsequent years by the home to the Landesmuseum
with a collection of modern art. Wilhelm I statue, at the river’s choir was added in 1404–30. archbishops and electors of Trier, Koblenz (regional museum)
confluence. who lived in it from 1648 to with an interesting collection on
R Basilika St Kastor + Kurfürstliches Schloß 1786. Trier’s holiest relic, the Rock the development of technology,
Kastorstraße 7. Open 9am–6pm daily. Neustadt. Closed to the public. Christi (vestments of Christ) was and to the Rhein-Museum with
The collegial church of St Kastor Not far from the bridge across kept here. The fortress offers hydrological collections.
was built in 817–36 on the initi- the Rhine stands the electoral
ative of the archbishop of Trier, palace, an example of the
on a site previously occupied by Rhineland’s early Neo-Classical
an early Christian church. The architecture. It was built, and for a
treaty of Verdun, which divi ded short time occupied, by Clemens
the Carolingian Empire between Wenzeslaus von Sachsen, the last
the three sons of Ludwig I the of Trier’s electors. Construction of
Romanesque twin-tower façade of the Pious, was signed here in 843. the castle began in 1777,
Basilika St Kastor The pre sent appearance of the designed by Michael d’Ixnard,
church is the result of extensions and continued until 1786,
P Deutsches Eck from the 11th–13th centuries. overseen by Antoine François
Ludwig-Museum im Deutschherren- Inside are beautiful wall epitaphs The Renaissance Alte Burg, now housing Peyère the Younger. The Classical façade of the Kurfürstliches Schloß
haus: Danziger Freiheit 1. Tel (0261) 30 of the Trier archbishops Kuno archives and a library
40 40. Open 10:30am–5pm Tue–Sat, von Falkenst ein (1388) and
11am–6pm Sun. Werner von König stein (1418). + Alte Burg Koblenz City Centre
The “German corner” is where Burgstraße 1. 1 Deutsches Eck
the Mosel flows into the Rhine. P Florinsmarkt In the Middle Ages, the 2 Basilika St Kastor Festung
Here stands the enormous This square takes its name from powerful von Arken family Ehrenbreitstein
equestrian statue of Emperor the Romanesque-Gothic church had a fortified residence 3 Florinsmarkt Balduin- M o s e l Deutsches
Eck
Wilhelm I. Designed by Bruno of St Florin, which dates from the built for themselves in the 4 Mittelrhein-Museum brücke Mittelrhein-
Basilika
Schmitz, it was erected in 1897, 12th and 14th centuries. The northwestern section of the 5 Alte Burg Alte Burg Museum St Kastor
PET ER - A LTME I E R - U F ER
destroyed in World War II and historic Kaufhaus, found on the Roman fortifications. In 1277 6 Liebfrauenkirche Florinsmarkt KASTOR- H O F S T RAS SE VOR DEM
replaced with a copy in 1993. square, dates from 1419–25. The the building was taken over 7 Kurfürstliches Schloß STR. AM A LT E N H OS PI TAL SAUERWASSERTOR
KARMELITERSTR. KASTORPFAFFEN HOF
The name refers to the complex image of a horse-rider shows the by Heinrich von Finstingen, 8 Festung Ehrenbreitstein MARKT- MÜNZ- Liebfrauenkirche A DENAUER-UFER CHARLOTTENSTR. O BER TAL
of buildings known as Deutsch- robber baron Johann von Kobem, the archbishop of Trier, who STR. STRASSE
ordered its extension. The PFUHLGASSE GÖRGENSTR. GYMNASIALSTR. GÖRRES RHEIN- STRASS E R h e i n HOFSTR.
JOSEF
fortress was to protect him SCHANZENPFORTE HELFEN- STEINSTR.
PLATZ
from the citizens of Koblenz HOHENFELDER STR. Mittelrheinisches CLEMENSSTRASSE KONRAD- HUMBOLDTSTR.
Museum
who were striving for LÖ HRS TR. CASINOSTR DEINHARD- IM TEICHER T
PLATZ
independence. Successive LÖHR- VIKTORIASTR. LUISENSTR. STRESEMANNSTR
archbishops continued with RONDELL N E US TA DT
the conversion of the building, STEGEMANNSTRASSE
SCHLOSSSTRASSE
which acquired its final shape Kurfürstliches AM PFAFFENDORFER T
Schloss
in the 17th century. The eastern
Renaissance façade of the
complex is particularly 0 metres 250 Pfaffendorfer
attractive. Today it houses 0 yards 250 Brücke
the municipal archives and E M S E R STRASSE OR
The spur between the Mosel and the Rhine, called Deutsches Eck parts of the library.
For hotels and restaurants in this area see p499 and pp524–5
360-361_EW_Germany.indd 360 09/10/17 2:30 pm 360-361_EW_Germany.indd 361 09/10/17 2:30 pm
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(Source v2.2)
Date 15th January 2013
Size 125mm x 217mm

RHINELAND-P ALA TINA TE AND SAARLAND  361


R Liebfrauenkirche E Festung VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
An der Liebfrauenkirche 1. Ehrenbreitstein
Tel (0261) 315 50. Fortress Open Apr–Oct: Practical Information
Open Apr–Oct: 8:15am– 10am–6pm daily; Nov–Mar: Road map: B5. * 109,300.
7pm daily; Nov–Mar: 10am–5pm daily. & n Bahnhofplatz 17 (0261-
8:15am–6pm Mon–Sat, Landesmuseum Koblenz 19433). _ Internationale
9am–5pm Sun. Tel (0261) 66750. Open Musiktage (Mar/Apr), Altstadtfest
At the highest point in Apr–Oct: 10am–6pm daily; mit dem Fest der Stadtteile (Jun/
the old town stands the Nov–Mar: 10am–5pm Jul), Koblenzer Gauklerfest (Jul),
Romanesque church of daily. & Rhein in Flammen (Aug),
Schängelmarkt (Sep), Koblenzer
Our Dear Lady. Its history On the opposite side Mendelssohn-Tage (autumn).
dates back to early of the Rhine stands the ∑ koblenz-touristik.de
Christian times, but its mighty fortress of
present form is the Statue of Ehrenbreitstein, one of Transport
result of remodelling the Madonna the largest in the world £
work carried out in in Liebfrauenkirche and barely changed
1182–1250. A triple- since Prussian days.
nave basilica with galleries, it has A smaller fortress was erected on splendid views over Koblenz, the
a twin-tower western façade. this site in 1000, and extended in Rhine and the Mosel. Today, it is
The beautiful, elongated Gothic subsequent years by the home to the Landesmuseum
choir was added in 1404–30. archbishops and electors of Trier, Koblenz (regional museum)
who lived in it from 1648 to with an interesting collection on
+ Kurfürstliches Schloß 1786. Trier’s holiest relic, the Rock the development of technology,
Neustadt. Closed to the public. Christi (vestments of Christ) was and to the Rhein-Museum with
Not far from the bridge across kept here. The fortress offers hydrological collections.
the Rhine stands the electoral
palace, an example of the
Rhineland’s early Neo-Classical
architecture. It was built, and for a
short time occupied, by Clemens
Wenzeslaus von Sachsen, the last
of Trier’s electors. Construction of
the castle began in 1777,
designed by Michael d’Ixnard,
and continued until 1786,
overseen by Antoine François
Peyère the Younger. The Classical façade of the Kurfürstliches Schloß

Koblenz City Centre
1 Deutsches Eck
Festung
2 Basilika St Kastor Ehrenbreitstein
3 Florinsmarkt Deutsches
Balduin- M o s e l
4 Mittelrhein-Museum brücke Mittelrhein- Eck
Basilika
5 Alte Burg Alte Burg Museum St Kastor
PET ER - A LTME I E R - U F ER
6 Liebfrauenkirche Florinsmarkt KASTOR- H O F S T RAS SE VOR DEM
7 Kurfürstliches Schloß STR. AM A LT E N H OS PI TAL SAUERWASSERTOR
8 Festung Ehrenbreitstein MARKT- MÜNZ- STR. Liebfrauenkirche RHEIN- STRASS E A DENAUER-UFER R h e i n CHARLOTTENSTR. O BER TAL
STRASSE
GYMNASIALSTR.
JOSEF
HOHENFELDER STR. LÖ HR S TR . PFUHLGASSE GÖRGENSTR. CLEMENSSTRASSE GÖRRES KARMELITERSTR. KASTORPFAFFEN HOF KONRAD- HUMBOLDTSTR. HELFEN- STEINSTR.
PLATZ
HOFSTR.
Mittelrheinisches
SCHANZENPFORTE
Museum
DEINHARD-
LÖHR- VIKTORIASTR. LUISENSTR. CASINOSTR PLATZ STRESEMANNSTR IM TEICHER T
RONDELL SCHLOSSSTRASSE N E US TA D T
Kurfürstliches AM PFAFFENDORFER T
STEGEMANNSTRASSE
Schloss
0 metres 250
Pfaffendorfer
0 yards 250 Brücke
E M S E R STRASSE OR
360-361_EW_Germany.indd 361 09/10/17 2:30 pm

362  WESTERN GERM AN Y RHINELAND-P ALA TINA TE AND SAARLAND  363

0 Maria Laach Mosaics VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
The interior is decorated with
A true masterpiece of German and European paintings and mosaics created Practical Information
over centuries by artists of the
Romanesque architecture, the Maria Laach Abbey Beuronese School. In the main Road map B5. Tel (02652) 590.
stands next to the Laacher See, a lake formed in the eastern apse is a mosaic of Christ Open Apr–Oct: 10am–5pm Tue–
Sat, 1–5pm Sun & Mon; Nov–Mar:
crater of an extinct volcano. Its construction started in the Ruler dating from 1911. 10:30am–noon Mon–Sat, 1–7pm
1093 at the behest of Heinrich II, who also lies buried Sun. 0 - =
here. Building continued from 1093 until 1220. Until Transport
secular ization in 1802, the Abbey was the home of @ from Niedermendig.
the Benedictines. Since 1892 the church has once £ from Andernach.
again been resounding with Gregorian chants, which
are sung here several times a day.

. Tomb of Heinrich II
The tomb of the Count View from the West
Palatine Heinrich II, who died The monumental western façade of the
in 1095, dates from about abbey consists of a semicircular apse, a
1280. His effigy has been massive, square 43-m (141-ft) tall central
reproduced in a magnificent tower, and two slim 35-m (115-ft) tall
walnut wood block, which flanking towers.
to this day has kept its
original colours.






Stained-glass Windows
Three vast stained-glass windows
in the main eastern apse were
made by a contemporary artist,
W Rupprecht, in 1956.




Löwenbrunnen
The lion fountain, which adorns the atrium, was
made in 1928. It was modelled on the famous
Alhambra fountain in Granada, Spain.


. High Altar
Among the most precious works
preserved in the church is the late-
Romanesque canopy of 1220–50,
rising above the high altar.


Detail from a
Column Capital . Crypt
The western entrance The vaults of the KEY
is surrounded by columns exquisite early-
with interesting capitals. Romanesque crypt 1 The “Paradise”, the courtyard,
Carved figures can be are supported by is meant to symbolize the Garden
seen, including that of a austere square of Eden.
devil recording the sins of capitals. This is also 2 The church towers have
each entrant and others Church entrance the resting-place of arcaded galleries, typical of
which are pulling each Gilbert, the first abbot Romanesque style.
other’s hair out. Main entrance at Maria Laach.
For hotels and restaurants in this area see p499 and pp524–5


362-363_EW_Germany.indd 362 09/10/17 2:30 pm 362-363_EW_Germany.indd 363 09/10/17 2:30 pm
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Date 6th February2013
Size 125mm x 217mm

RHINELAND-P ALA TINA TE AND SAARLAND  363

Mosaics
The interior is decorated with VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
paintings and mosaics created
over centuries by artists of the Practical Information
Beuronese School. In the main Road map B5. Tel (02652) 590.
eastern apse is a mosaic of Christ Open Apr–Oct: 10am–5pm Tue–
the Ruler dating from 1911. Sat, 1–5pm Sun & Mon; Nov–Mar:
10:30am–noon Mon–Sat, 1–7pm
Sun. 0 - =
Transport
@ from Niedermendig.
£ from Andernach.



















Stained-glass Windows
Three vast stained-glass windows
in the main eastern apse were
made by a contemporary artist,
W Rupprecht, in 1956.











. High Altar
Among the most precious works
preserved in the church is the late-
Romanesque canopy of 1220–50,
rising above the high altar.



. Crypt
The vaults of the KEY
exquisite early-
Romanesque crypt 1 The “Paradise”, the courtyard,
are supported by is meant to symbolize the Garden
austere square of Eden.
capitals. This is also 2 The church towers have
the resting-place of arcaded galleries, typical of
Gilbert, the first abbot Romanesque style.
at Maria Laach.




362-363_EW_Germany.indd 363 09/10/17 2:30 pm

WESTERN GERM AN Y  365

HESSE


Hesse lies in the very heart of present-day Germany. Scattered
over the region are reminders of its former glory: Roman
camps, Carolingian buildings, Romanesque churches and
Gothic cathedrals with lofty spires. Territorial partitions,
so typical of the former German Reich, brought about the
blossoming of art and architecture during the Renaissance
and the Baroque eras.

A post-World War II creation, the borders 20th century. Wiesbaden is the seat of
of this federal state roughly approximate Hesse’s state government, and Marburg
those of its 13th-century forerunner. is one of the best-known university
For most of its history, Hesse was towns. In the 16th century, at the times
divided between Hesse-Darmstadt of fierce religious feuds, the first
and Hesse-Kassel. Protestant university was built here.
Today, when admiring the distinctive The Church of St Elizabeth is one of the
panorama of Frankfurt am Main – its earliest examples of Gothic architecture
towering banks and skyscrapers more in the region. Lovers of modern art will
reminiscent of New York’s Manhattan know of Kassel – every five years it hosts
than of a European metropolis – it is the documenta, an exciting exhibition of
hard to believe that this was the artistic developments.
birthplace of Goethe. The importance Hesse has much more to offer. The
of this city extends far beyond Hesse: Waldecker Land, near Kassel, boasts the
it is the financial centre of the European Eder lake and attractive health resorts.
Union, and its annual Book Fair is the Eberbach in the picturesque Rheingau,
largest event of its kind in the world. the wine-growing area around Eltville, has
Darmstadt became famous as a centre a well-preserved former Cistercian abbey,
for Jugendstil (Art Nouveau) early in the which has been used as a film setting.


























Park and Baroque Orangery of the palace complex in Fulda
The dramatic juxtaposition of old and new buildings in Frankfurt am Main



364-365_EW_Germany.indd 364 09/10/17 2:30 pm 364-365_EW_Germany.indd 365 09/10/17 2:30 pm
Eyewitness Travel LAYERS PRINTED:
Regional intro template V2 “UK” LAYER
(OpenType)
Date 10th November 2006
Size 125mm x 217mm

WESTERN GERM AN Y  365

HESSE


Hesse lies in the very heart of present-day Germany. Scattered
over the region are reminders of its former glory: Roman
camps, Carolingian buildings, Romanesque churches and
Gothic cathedrals with lofty spires. Territorial partitions,
so typical of the former German Reich, brought about the
blossoming of art and architecture during the Renaissance
and the Baroque eras.

A post-World War II creation, the borders 20th century. Wiesbaden is the seat of
of this federal state roughly approximate Hesse’s state government, and Marburg
those of its 13th-century forerunner. is one of the best-known university
For most of its history, Hesse was towns. In the 16th century, at the times
divided between Hesse-Darmstadt of fierce religious feuds, the first
and Hesse-Kassel. Protestant university was built here.
Today, when admiring the distinctive The Church of St Elizabeth is one of the
panorama of Frankfurt am Main – its earliest examples of Gothic architecture
towering banks and skyscrapers more in the region. Lovers of modern art will
reminiscent of New York’s Manhattan know of Kassel – every five years it hosts
than of a European metropolis – it is the documenta, an exciting exhibition of
hard to believe that this was the artistic developments.
birthplace of Goethe. The importance Hesse has much more to offer. The
of this city extends far beyond Hesse: Waldecker Land, near Kassel, boasts the
it is the financial centre of the European Eder lake and attractive health resorts.
Union, and its annual Book Fair is the Eberbach in the picturesque Rheingau,
largest event of its kind in the world. the wine-growing area around Eltville, has
Darmstadt became famous as a centre a well-preserved former Cistercian abbey,
for Jugendstil (Art Nouveau) early in the which has been used as a film setting.


























Park and Baroque Orangery of the palace complex in Fulda
The dramatic juxtaposition of old and new buildings in Frankfurt am Main



364-365_EW_Germany.indd 365 09/10/17 2:30 pm

366  WESTERN GERM AN Y HESSE  367

Exploring Hesse

Eltville, situated in the Rheingau, one of Germany’s most
important wine-producing regions, is famous for its Riesling DortmundDortmund Warburg
Warburg
wine. Frankfurt am Main, known around the world as a great Göttingen
Göttingen
Fulda
financial and commercial centre, also has fantastic museums, Bad Arolsen Fulda
Bad Arolsen
drawing visitors with their outstanding art collections, while Werra
Diemel
the International Book Fair is a true paradise for readers and Diemel
Werra
bookworms. In the 19th century, wealthy socialites chose Bad KorbachKorbach KASSELKASSEL Kaufungen
Kaufungen
Homburg as their favourite spa, while the romantic town of L A N D
Marburg still has the lively atmosphere of a university town. Meißner
Meißner
L A N D
754m
754m
Eder-
Eder-
W A L D E C K E R
W A L D E C K E R
Stausee Melsungen
Stausee
Melsungen
FRITZLAR
FRITZLAR
Bad
FrankenbergFrankenberg Bad
Wildungen
Wildungen
Rotenburg
Rotenburg
Fulda
Fulda
Borken Eisenach
Borken
Eisenach
Bebra
HESSENHESSEN Bebra
Bad Hersfeld
Bad Hersfeld
Lahn
Lahn
StadtallendorfStadtallendorf
Fulda
Siegen
Siegen Fulda
ALSFELD
MARBURG ALSFELD
MARBURG
DillenburgDillenburg
Altenburg
Altenburg
The Dom in Limburg, overlooking the Lahn river Herborn
Herborn
Hünfeld
Hünfeld
Lauterbach
Lauterbach
The Messeturm in the Frankfurt fairgrounds, designed
by Helmut Jahn
V o g e l s b e r g
WETZLARWETZLAR GIESSENGIESSEN GrünbergGrünberg
Lahn
Lahn Wetter V o g e l s b e r g FULDA WasserkuppeWasserkuppe
FULDA
Wetter
Taufstein
Taufstein
772m
Koblenz
Koblenz WEILBURGWEILBURG 772m 950m950m Getting Around
Nidda
Neuhof
Butzbach
Butzbach Nidda Neuhof The A7 motorway, cutting across Hesse in
LIMBURGLIMBURG Bad Kinzig Kinzig a north–south direction, provides a fast
Bad
Nauheim
Nauheim transport link. Starting from Hanover, it
SchlüchternSchlüchtern runs through Göttingen, Kassel and Fulda
Schweinfurt to Würzburg in Bavaria. The A4 runs from
Schweinfurt
Großer Feldberg
Großer Feldberg Dresden, via Weimar, to Bad Hersfeld. From
880m
880m
Idstein
Idstein BAD BAD there visitors can take the A7 or the A5,
HOMBURGHOMBURG
T a u n u s s KönigsteinKönigstein towards Gießen, Bad Homburg, Frankfurt
T a u n u
am Main and onwards to Darmstadt and
KelkheimKelkheim
HanauHanau
Heidelberg. The fast ICE railway connects
FRANKFURT
KIEDRICHKIEDRICH WIESBADEN WIESBADEN FRANKFURT Main Kassel and Frankfurt am Main with Basel
AM MAIN
Main
ELTVILLE
Winkel
Winkel ELTVILLE AM MAIN (in Switzerland), Stuttgart, Berlin and
RüsselsheimRüsselsheim DreiechDreiech Munich. Frankfurt am Main has one of
Würzburg Europe’s largest airports, and there are
Würzburg
RÜDESHEIMRÜDESHEIM
The giant Niederwalddenkmal near Rüdesheim also international flights from Kassel.
Gross-Gerau
Gross-Gerau
DARMSTADTDARMSTADT
0 kilometres 20
Sights at a Glance Rhein PfungstadtPfungstadt 0 miles 20
Rhein
1 Kassel pp368–9 e Wiesbaden O d e n w a l d
O d e n w a l d
2 Fritzlar r Kiedrich MICHELSTADT
MICHELSTADT
4 Fulda t Rüdesheim Worms Bensheim Key
Worms
Bensheim
5 Alsfeld y Frankfurt am Main pp378–83 LORSCHLORSCH Motorway
Erbach
6 Marburg u Darmstadt Erbach Motorway under construction
7 Gießen i Lorsch Major road
8 Wetzlar o Michelstadt Viernheim Minor road
Viernheim
9 Weilburg
0 Limburg Excursions Heidelberg Main railway
Heidelberg
q Bad Homburg 3 Waldecker Land Minor railway
w Eltville Statue of the Brothers Grimm in Hanau Regional border
Summit
For additional map symbols see back flap
366-367_EW_Germany.indd 366 09/10/17 12:49 pm 366-367_EW_Germany.indd 367 09/10/17 12:49 pm

HESSE  367






Dortmund Warburg
Fulda Göttingen
Bad Arolsen
Diemel Werra
Korbach L A N D KASSEL Kaufungen
Meißner
754m
Eder-
W A L D E C K E R
Stausee Melsungen
FRITZLAR
Frankenberg Bad
Wildungen
Rotenburg
Fulda
Borken Eisenach
HESSEN Bebra
Bad Hersfeld
Lahn
Stadtallendorf
Siegen Fulda
MARBURG ALSFELD
Dillenburg
Altenburg
Herborn
Hünfeld
Lauterbach
The Messeturm in the Frankfurt fairgrounds, designed
by Helmut Jahn
WETZLAR GIESSEN Grünberg
Lahn Wetter V o g e l s b e r g FULDA Wasserkuppe
Taufstein
Koblenz WEILBURG 772m 950m Getting Around
Butzbach Nidda Neuhof The A7 motorway, cutting across Hesse in
LIMBURG Bad Kinzig a north–south direction, provides a fast
Nauheim transport link. Starting from Hanover, it
Schlüchtern runs through Göttingen, Kassel and Fulda
Schweinfurt to Würzburg in Bavaria. The A4 runs from
Großer Feldberg Dresden, via Weimar, to Bad Hersfeld. From
880m
Idstein BAD there visitors can take the A7 or the A5,
HOMBURG
T a u n u s Königstein towards Gießen, Bad Homburg, Frankfurt
Kelkheim
am Main and onwards to Darmstadt and
Hanau
Heidelberg. The fast ICE railway connects
KIEDRICH WIESBADEN FRANKFURT Main Kassel and Frankfurt am Main with Basel
Winkel ELTVILLE AM MAIN (in Switzerland), Stuttgart, Berlin and
Rüsselsheim Dreiech Munich. Frankfurt am Main has one of
Würzburg Europe’s largest airports, and there are
RÜDESHEIM also international flights from Kassel.
Gross-Gerau
DARMSTADT
0 kilometres 20
Pfungstadt 0 miles 20
Rhein
O d e n w a l d
MICHELSTADT
Worms Key
LORSCH Bensheim Motorway
Erbach
Motorway under construction
Major road
Viernheim
Minor road
Main railway
Heidelberg
Minor railway
Statue of the Brothers Grimm in Hanau Regional border
Summit
366-367_EW_Germany.indd 367 09/10/17 12:49 pm

368  WESTERN GERM AN Y HESSE  369

1 Kassel born in Hanau, they lived in a small Renaissance Schloß VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
Kassel from 1798 until 1830, and (1568), surrounded by a garden.
The cultural, scientific and commercial centre of northern this museum presents the lives In 1702–10 Pierre-Etienne Practical Information
Hesse, Kassel suffered severe damage during World War II and works of the famous fairy- Monnot built the large Road map C4. * 195,000.
due to the armaments industries based here, and much of tale tellers and philologers using Orangery, which now houses n Wilhelmsstraße 23 and
Bahnhof Wilhelmshöhe (0561-70
the town has been rebuilt in functional 1950s style. Today, five themes, and many original a fascinating museum of astro- 77 07). _ documenta (every 5
nomy and technology. Monnot
first editions. Art installations,
Kassel has become synonymous with one of the most films and hands-on activities was also the creator of years, next to be held in 2022),
important shows of contemporary art – documenta – held will interest visitors of all ages. Marmorbad, a bath pavilion Zissel (Aug), Museumsnacht
here every five years (the 13th documenta is scheduled The rooftop terrace has dating from 1722, while the (Sep), Kasseler Musiktage (Nov).
∑ kassel.de
for 2022). The town is equally famous for its outstanding excellent views over Kassel. kitchen pavilion was desi gned
collection of European art, housed in the splendid Schloß The Ottoneum, home of the first by Simon Louis du Ry in 1765. Transport
£ k Kassel, 13 km (8 miles)
Wilhelms höhe, as well as for its parks and gardens, especially permanent theatre in Germany P Wilhelmshöhe northwest.
the large forest-park adjoining the castle. Learned, was Germany’s first Gemäldegalerie Alter Meister. Schloß
permanent theatre. Designed Wilhelmshöhe. Tel (0561) 31 68 00. Wilhelm. Now it houses the
methods of its production by Wilhelm Vernukken and Open 10am–5pm Tue–Sun (until 8pm Gemäldegalerie Alte Meister
around the world. The collection remodelled in the late 17th Wed). Closed 1 May, 24, 25, 31 Dec. with its outstanding collection
includes examples of leather wall century by Paul du Ry, it was & (admission to park is free). of European masters including
cove rings (cordovans) and wall- converted into a natural history At the top of Wilhelmshöher paintings by Rubens, Titian,
papers representing Secession museum in 1885. Allee, designed in 1781, stands Rem brandt, Dürer and Poussin.
and Art-Deco styles. Vues de Wilhelmshöhe, a magnificent
Suisse (views of Switzerland), Y Orangerie palace and large, attractive park.
dating from 1802, is one of the An der Karlsaue 20c. Tel (0561) 316 80 The palace is situated along the
17th-century cameo-decorated earliest examples of scenic 500. Astronomisch-Physikalisches axis of the avenue that runs up
tureen in the Landesmuseum wallpaper. It was printed using Kabinett and Planetarium: Open the hill, through a long forest
95 different inks and 1,024 10am–5pm Tue, Wed, Fri–Sun; glade. An incredible series of
E Hessisches Landes museum wooden blocks. Equally famous 10am–8pm Thu. Closed 24, 25, 31 cascades runs down the hillside
Brüder-Grimm-Platz 5. Tel (0561) 316 is the panoramic Rénaud et An illustration for Cinderella, one of the Dec. Zeiss-Planetarium: 8 2pm Tue, above the palace. At the top of
800. Open 10am–5pm Tue, Wed, Fri– Armide, from the workshop of Grimm fairy-tales Sat, 3pm Wed, Fri, Sun, 2 & 7pm Thu. the hill is the Octogon, crowned
Sun; 10am–8pm Thu. Joseph Dufours, printed in 1828 & (free Fri.) ∑ museum-kassel.de with the statue of Hercules,
∑ museum-kassel.de using 2,386 wooden blocks. P Kunsthalle Fridericianum The southern part of Kassel is the symbol of the town. The
Outstanding items in the Neo- Friedrichsplatz 18. Tel (0561) 707 27 home to Karlsaue, a vast palace palace was design ed by Simon
Baroque Hesse Regional E Neue Galerie 20. Closed for restoration until 2018. and garden complex named Louis du Ry and Heinrich
Museum, built in 1910–13, are Schöne Aussicht 1. Tel (0561) 316 80 & ∑ fridericianum.org after its founder, Landgrave Karl. Christoph Jussow and built in Cascades, with Octogon and Hercules
the astronomical instruments, 400. Open 10am–5pm Tue–Sun (to Königsplatz and Friedrichs platz The site was earlier occupied by 1793–1801 for the Elector statue, in Wilhelmshöhe
originally installed in 1560 in a 8pm Thu). ∑ museum-kassel.de were designed by the court
landgrave’s castle, which no The New Gallery, founded in architect, Simon Louis du Ry. The
longer exists. The ethno graphic 1976 and devoted to 19th- and northwestern side of the latter is Kassel City Centre
section has Hessian folk cos- 20th-century art, occupies a occupied by the Neo-Classical 1 Hessisches Landesmuseum
tumes and regional craft items. Neo-Classicist building from Fridericianum, built by du Ry in and Deutsches WERNER-HILPERT-STRASSE
The Landesmuseum also 1871–74. The gallery’s collection 1769–76. Its founder, Landgrave Tapetenmuseum
houses the Tapeten museum includes a number of canvases Friedrich II, had always intended Hauptbahnhof RUDOLF-SCHWANDER-STRASSE PLATZ K U R T- S C H U M A C H E R - S T R A S S E
UNTERE
(wallpaper museum). Established by artists such as Carl Schuch, it to be a museum, and it 2 Neue Galerie SPOHRSTRASSE LUTHER- MAUERSTRASSE Stadtbad K ÖNIGSTRASSE
DIE FREIHEIT
in 1923, the museum presents Max Slevogt and Lovis Corinth. became the second public 3 Brüder-Grimm-Museum KURFÜRSTEN-
the history of wall paper and the The splendid col lection of museum (after the British Mus- 4 Fridericianum KÖLNISCHE STR. K ÖLNISCHE STRASSE MITTEL GASSE Markthalle
STRASSE
20th-century paintings eum in London) to be built in 5 Ottoneum TREPPEN- KÖNIGS WILDEMANNSGASSE
PLATZ
focuses on German Europe, and the first one on the 6 Orangerie STRASSE ENTENANGER Fulda-
brücke
UN T ERE KARLSST RA SSE
Expressionism. An entire European mainland. Since 1955, S T Å N D E P L A T Z OBERS TE GASSE ENTENANGER MARSTÄLLER
PLATZ
room is also devoted to the Fridricianum has been the FLORENTINER FRIEDRICHSPLATZ S T E I N W E G
the installa tions of the main venue for Kassel’s multi- PLATZ
controversial sculptor media contemporary art show – FRIEDRICHS- Fridericianum Fulda
NEUE FAHRT
and performance artist the documenta, which every five WILHELMSTRASSE OBERE KÖNIGSSTRASSE PLATZ Staatstheater
Joseph Beuys. years takes over the entire city. FRIEDRICH-EBERT-STRASSE FRIEDRICHSPLATZ Ottoneum
DU-RY-STRASSE
F R A N K F U R T E R S T R A S S E
An additional exhibition hall, the KÖNIG S T OR Karls- Draht-
brücke
E Brüder-Grimm- Documentahalle, was opened in kirche
Museum 1992, in the nearby Staatstheater. F RIEDRICH STRASSE Rathaus A N D E R K ARLSAUE
Weinbergstraße 21. Tel (0561) WILHEL M S - FÜNFFENSTER- SCHÖNE STRASSE AUEDAMM
HÖHER AL L E
787 41 24 . Open 10am–6pm F Ottoneum WILHELMSHÖHE Marmorbad
-STRASSE
Tue–Thu, Sat & Sun; 10am– Steinweg 2. Naturkundemuseum Hessisches Orangerie
8pm Fri. Closed 1 Jan. & Tel (0561) 787 40 66. Open 10am–5pm Landesmuseum Brüder-Grimm- AN DER KAR L S A UE
Museum
-=∑ grimmwelt.de Tue–Sun (to 8pm Wed, 6pm Sun). & SE
0 metres 300 WEINBERG STR A S Neue Galerie
Although brothers Jacob The Ottoneum (1604–5), built
Wallpaper (1670–80), in the Tapetenmuseum and Wilhelm Grimm were for Landgrave Maurice the 0 yards 300
For hotels and restaurants in this area see pp499–500 and pp525–6 For keys to symbols see back flap
368-369_EW_Germany.indd 368 09/10/17 2:30 pm 368-369_EW_Germany.indd 369 09/10/17 2:30 pm
Eyewitness Travel LAYERS PRINTED:
Catalogue template “UK” LAYER
(Source v2.2)
Date 15th January 2013
Size 125mm x 217mm

HESSE  369


a small Renaissance Schloß VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
(1568), surrounded by a garden.
In 1702–10 Pierre-Etienne Practical Information
Monnot built the large Road map C4. * 195,000.
Orangery, which now houses n Wilhelmsstraße 23 and
a fascinating museum of astro- Bahnhof Wilhelmshöhe (0561-70
nomy and technology. Monnot 77 07). _ documenta (every 5
was also the creator of years, next to be held in 2022),
Marmorbad, a bath pavilion Zissel (Aug), Museumsnacht
dating from 1722, while the (Sep), Kasseler Musiktage (Nov).
∑ kassel.de
kitchen pavilion was desi gned
The Ottoneum, home of the first by Simon Louis du Ry in 1765. Transport
permanent theatre in Germany £ k Kassel, 13 km (8 miles)
P Wilhelmshöhe northwest.
Learned, was Germany’s first Gemäldegalerie Alter Meister. Schloß
permanent theatre. Designed Wilhelmshöhe. Tel (0561) 31 68 00. Wilhelm. Now it houses the
by Wilhelm Vernukken and Open 10am–5pm Tue–Sun (until 8pm Gemäldegalerie Alte Meister
remodelled in the late 17th Wed). Closed 1 May, 24, 25, 31 Dec. with its outstanding collection
century by Paul du Ry, it was & (admission to park is free). of European masters including
converted into a natural history At the top of Wilhelmshöher paintings by Rubens, Titian,
museum in 1885. Allee, designed in 1781, stands Rem brandt, Dürer and Poussin.
Wilhelmshöhe, a magnificent
Y Orangerie palace and large, attractive park.
An der Karlsaue 20c. Tel (0561) 316 80 The palace is situated along the
500. Astronomisch-Physikalisches axis of the avenue that runs up
Kabinett and Planetarium: Open the hill, through a long forest
10am–5pm Tue, Wed, Fri–Sun; glade. An incredible series of
10am–8pm Thu. Closed 24, 25, 31 cascades runs down the hillside
Dec. Zeiss-Planetarium: 8 2pm Tue, above the palace. At the top of
Sat, 3pm Wed, Fri, Sun, 2 & 7pm Thu. the hill is the Octogon, crowned
& (free Fri.) ∑ museum-kassel.de
with the statue of Hercules,
The southern part of Kassel is the symbol of the town. The
home to Karlsaue, a vast palace palace was design ed by Simon
and garden complex named Louis du Ry and Heinrich
after its founder, Landgrave Karl. Christoph Jussow and built in Cascades, with Octogon and Hercules
The site was earlier occupied by 1793–1801 for the Elector statue, in Wilhelmshöhe

Kassel City Centre
1 Hessisches Landesmuseum
and Deutsches WERNER-HILPERT-STRASSE
Tapetenmuseum RUDOLF-SCHWANDER-STRASSE K U R T- S C H U M A C H E R - S T R A S S E
PLATZ
2 Neue Galerie Hauptbahnhof SPOHRSTRASSE LUTHER- MAUERSTRASSE Stadtbad
UNTERE
3 Brüder-Grimm-Museum KURFÜRSTEN- K ÖNIGSTRASSE
DIE FREIHEIT
4 Fridericianum STRASSE MITTEL GASSE
5 Ottoneum KÖLNISCHE STR. K ÖLNISCHE STRASSE KÖNIGS WILDEMANNSGASSE Markthalle
6 Orangerie STRASSE PLATZ ENTENANGER brücke
S T Å N D E P L A T Z FLORENTINER FRIEDRICHSPLATZ UN T ERE KARLSST RA SSE OBERS TE GASSE ENTENANGER MARSTÄLLER
Fulda-
TREPPEN-
S T E I N W E G
PLATZ
PLATZ
Fridericianum
NEUE FAHRT OBERE KÖNIGSSTRASSE FRIEDRICHS- Ottoneum Staatstheater Fulda
PLATZ
WILHELMSTRASSE
KÖNIG S T OR Karls- DU-RY-STRASSE brücke
F R A N K F U R T E R S T R A S S E
FRIEDRICHSPLATZ
Draht-
FRIEDRICH-EBERT-STRASSE
Rathaus kirche A N D E R K ARLSAUE
WILHEL M S -
HÖHER AL L E FÜNFFENSTER- SCHÖNE STRASSE AUEDAMM
WILHELMSHÖHE Marmorbad
-STRASSE
F RIEDRICH STRASSE
Hessisches Orangerie
Landesmuseum Brüder-Grimm- AN DER KAR L S A UE
Museum
SE Neue Galerie
0 metres 300 WEINBERG STR A S
0 yards 300
For keys to symbols see back flap
368-369_EW_Germany.indd 369 09/10/17 2:30 pm

370  WESTERN GERM AN Y HESSE  371


2 Fritzlar
Road map C4. * 15,500. £ @ 3 Waldecker Land PaderbornPaderborn
n Rathaus, Zwischen den Krämen 5
(05622-98 86 43). _ Pferdemarkt The Waldecker Land, situated west of Kassel, was once an Höxter
(Jul), Stadtfest (Aug). independent county and later, until 1929, a free state
within the German Reich. Today this region, with
The beautiful town of Fritzlar its Eder-Stausee (reservoir), is one of the most
has preserved its original, Warburg
nearly complete ring of attractive tourist regions in Germany. The wooded Twiste
medieval walls with watch- hills provide a perfect setting for long rambles,
towers, bastions and over 450 the roads and tracks are ideally suited for cycling Diemelstadt
half-timbered houses from tours and the rivers and lakes permit visitors
various periods. In the early to practise a wide variety of watersports.
8th century, St Boniface, the
apostle of Germany, had the
holy oak of the Germanic god 2 Korbach 1 Bad Arolsen
Donar, which grew here, cut Korbach is a beautiful Both the sculptor Christian Daniel
down to build a Christian old town with many Rauch and the painter Wilhelm
chapel. In 724 he founded the half-timbered houses. Warmebach von Kaulbach were born in this spa
Benedictine Dom (abbey of Worth seeing are town, and they are commemorated
St Peter). In 1118 the original the Gothic church Twiste in two museums. The star attraction,
church was replaced by a of St Kilian with however, is the Baroque castle
its interesting
cruciform, vaulted basilica with 14th-century pulpit, Wolfhagen (1713–28) of the von Waldeck family,
a triple-nave crypt, and this was and the church of designed by Julius Ludwig Rothweil.
remodelled in the 13th and St Nicholas, with
14th centuries. Adjacent to the the Baroque
church is a lovely 14th-century tomb of Georg
ambulatory. The church interior Friedrich von JJ
is rich in historic treasures. The Waldeck
east wall of the transept is (1692).
decorated with wall paintings JJ
from around 1320, and the
south nave includes a Pietà
(1300). The 14th-century parish
Eder-Stausee
church of the Franciscan Eder-Stausee
Order nearby has a lovely
painting of the Madonna, on
the northern wall of the choir. Eder JJ 3 Waldeck
In Fritzlar’s picturesque old JJ Fritzlar The old fortress of Waldeck is now a
town stands the Rathaus (town JJ hotel. It offers superb views over the
hall), whose lower floors date Eder-Stausee reservoir and the small
from the 12th century, while the JJ JJ town of Waldeck with its 18th-century
upper ones were added in the JJ half-timbered houses. The Gothic town
15th century. The exquisite Bad church has a high altar (around 1500),
Hersfeld
Hochzeits haus (wedding devoted to the Virgin Mary.
house), in the street of the
same name, is a Renaissance JJ
half-timbered house, built in
1580–90, which now houses a JJ
museum. Another interesting
sight is the Alte Brücke, a
13th-century stone bridge Tips for Visitors
spanning the Eder River. 5 Frankenberg
This small town is brimming with Wohra Wohra Length of route: 110 km
half-timbered houses. The town (68 miles).
hall (1509), also half-timbered, has Key Stopping-off points: There are
humorous polychrome wood- Motorway many good cafés and restaurants
carvings. The Gothic Marienkirche Suggested route in every town along the route. 4 Bad Wildungen
with its 15th-century wall Further attractions: Cruises and This popular spa town has many
paintings is also worth visiting. Scenic road ferries run on the Edersee. A charming half-timbered houses. The
Other road viewing platform on top of the church has a priceless altar painted
Peterskopf hill, near Hemfurth,
0 kilometres 10 River, lake with scenes of the Passion by Konrad
Relief of St Martin, on the walls of the 0 miles 10 Viewpoint MarburgMarburg can be reached by electric train. von Soest (1403).
Rathaus in Fritzlar
For hotels and restaurants in this area see pp499–500 and pp525–6 For additional map symbols see back flap


370-371_EW_Germany.indd 370 09/10/17 2:30 pm 370-371_EW_Germany.indd 371 09/10/17 2:30 pm
Eyewitness Travel LAYERS PRINTED:
Catalogue template “UK” LAYER
(Source v2.3)
Date 6th February 2013
Size 125mm x 217mm

HESSE  371




Paderborn
Höxter


Warburg Twiste

Diemelstadt



1 Bad Arolsen
Both the sculptor Christian Daniel
Rauch and the painter Wilhelm
von Kaulbach were born in this spa
town, and they are commemorated
Twiste in two museums. The star attraction,
Warmebach
however, is the Baroque castle
(1713–28) of the von Waldeck family,
Wolfhagen designed by Julius Ludwig Rothweil.


J

J


Eder-Stausee

J 3 Waldeck
Eder
J Fritzlar The old fortress of Waldeck is now a
J hotel. It offers superb views over the
Eder-Stausee reservoir and the small
J town of Waldeck with its 18th-century
J
J half-timbered houses. The Gothic town
Bad church has a high altar (around 1500),
Hersfeld devoted to the Virgin Mary.
J
J

Tips for Visitors
Wohra Length of route: 110 km
(68 miles).
Stopping-off points: There are
many good cafés and restaurants
in every town along the route. 4 Bad Wildungen
Further attractions: Cruises and This popular spa town has many
ferries run on the Edersee. A charming half-timbered houses. The
viewing platform on top of the church has a priceless altar painted
Peterskopf hill, near Hemfurth, with scenes of the Passion by Konrad
Marburg can be reached by electric train. von Soest (1403).


For additional map symbols see back flap


370-371_EW_Germany.indd 371 09/10/17 2:30 pm

372  WESTERN GERM AN Y HESSE  373


The Brothers Grimm house), dating from 1565. town should start from the
Opposite the town hall stands Elisabethkirche, at the bottom
The two brothers are known around the the Stumpfhaus (1609), its of the hill. Built in 1235–83, it is
world as collectors of German folk-tales, façade beautifully decorated (after Trier) Germany’s second
which were first published in 1812 and with wood carvings and pain­ purely Gothic church. There is a
subsequently translated into most tings. From the town hall runs large set of Gothic altars from
languages. Fairy-tales such as Hänsel the picturesque Fulder Gasse, the early 16th century, including
and Gretel, Cinderella and Little Red Riding with the Gothic parish church the altars of St Elisabeth (1513)
Hood have been favourites for generations Wal purgiskirche (13th–15th and of the Holy Family (1511).
of children. Above all, however, the centuries), which has 15th­ Next to the north choir entrance
brothers were scholars. In his German century wall paintings. In stands the statue of St Elisabeth
Grammar, published in 1819, Jacob Grimm
proved that all German dialects sprang Rossmarkt stands the for mer with a model of the church
from a common origin, and thus laid the Augustian Dreifaltigkeits­ (1480). The choir contains
Projecting gate of the Baroque Stadtschloß foundations of German philology. The Grimm Brothers also initiated kirche (church of the the tomb of the Saint,
in Fulda the publication of the Dictionary of the German Language. Holy Trinity), from the positioned under the The Gothic portal of the Elisabeth kirche
13th–15th centuries. baldachin (around in Marburg
4 Fulda It was from here that 1280). The vestry
oldest church buildings in 5 Alsfeld in 1522 the monk houses the greatest (artists’ house). High above the
Road map C5. * 65,000. £
n Bonifatiusplatz 1 (0661-102 18 14). Germany. Inside the church has a Road map C4. * 18,000. £ Tilemann Schnabel treasure, the reliquary town towers the Landgrafen­
ring of eight columns and a crypt n Markt 3 (06631-18 21 65). began to spread the of St Elisabeth (1235– schloss, the landgraves’ castle
Fulda’s history began in March supported by a single column. _ Pfingstfest (Whitsun), Historischer Reform ation in Alsfeld. 49). In the south choir dating from the 10th–16th
744, when Sturmius, a pupil of The circular gallery, the long side Markt (Jun), Fairy-Tale Day (Jun), Stadt- The Märchenhaus is an interesting group centuries. The two­storey
St Boniface, laid the foundation nave and the western tower are und Heimatfest (Aug), Historischer (Fairy­Tale House) on of monuments to the Fürstenbau (dukes’ building)
stone for the Benedictine abbey. 11th-century additions. Markt (Sep). ∑ alsfeld.de Markt has several rooms Hessian land graves, has a large ducal chamber,
Ten years later the body of St Other interesting sights in devoted to the tales of from the 13th–16th dating from 1330. The
Boniface, who had been killed Fulda are the Baroque Heilig- The first historic records of the Brothers Grimm and Detail on the Rat haus, centuries. Wilhelmsbau was built in
in Marburg
by Frisian pagans, was laid to Geist-Kirche (church of the Alsfeld date from the late 9th a collection of puppets. The Kunst­ 1492–8. It houses a museum
rest here. The town, which grew Holy Spirit; closed to the public), century. Today the town attracts The 18th­century castle in museum Marburg of sacral art with mementos
around the abbey, experienced built in 1729–33 by Andreas visitors with its pretty old town Altenburg, 2 km (1 mile) from holds a collection of paintings of the debate between Luther,
its heyday during the Baroque Gallasini, and the late 18th- with numerous 16th–17th Alsfeld, enjoys a hilltop position. that were prod uced after Zwingli and Melanchthon.
period, and a new Baroque century parish church of St century half-timbered houses. 1500, with a predominance
building, designed by Johann Blasius. In the 8th century, five On the eastern side of the town of 19th­ and 20th­century R Elisabethkirche
Dientzenhofer, was built in abbeys were established on square stands a grand late- 6 Marburg German artists. Around the Elisabethstraße. Tel (06421) 655 73.
1704–12 on the foundations the four hills surrounding the Gothic Rathaus (town hall), Road map C4. * 80,000. £ market square stands a group Open Apr–Sep: 9am–5pm; Oct:
of the old abbey. The Dom St town. On Petersberg stands built in 1512–16, and one of n Pilgrimstein 26 (06421­991 20). of historic, half­timbered 9am–5pm; Nov–Mar: 10am–4pm.
Salvator und Bonifatius is a the former Benedictine the finest examples of half- _ Maieinsingen (30 Apr), 3­Tage houses from the 14th–17th E Kunstmuseum Marburg
triple-nave basilica with a dome Propsteikirche St Peter timbered structures anywhere Marburg (Jul), Elisabethmarkt (Oct), centuries. Particularly pretty Biegenstraße 11. Tel (06421) 282 23
above the nave intersection, a (Liobakirche), from the in Germany. Other interesting Weihnachtsmarkt (Dec). are the Sonne (sun, No. 14), 55. Closed for renovations. &
monumental eastern façade 9th–15th centuries, with a features in the market square ∑ marburg.de the Stiefel (boot, No. 17) and
and a shrine with the saint’s Carolingian crypt. Inside the are the stone Weinhaus, with the house at No. 19. The + Landgrafenschloß und
Museum für Kulturgeschichte
relics under the high altar, church is one of Germany’s its distinctive stepped gable When in 1248 the county Steinernes Haus (stone house, Schloß 1. Tel (06421) 282 58 71.
in the western section. oldest wall pain tings, dating (1538), and the Renaissance of Hesse broke away from No. 18), built in 1318, is the Open 10am–6pm Tue–Sun
Opposite the cathedral stands from 836–47. Hochzeitshaus (wedding Thuringia, Marburg became one oldest in Marburg, along with (Nov–Mar: to 4pm). &
the Stadtschloß (former of the most important seats of that at No. 13 Hirschgasse.
episcopal palace), a shoe- the landgraves. The first land­ At No. 16 Markt is the
shaped edifice, built by Johann grave, Heinrich II, lived in the Renaissance Künstlerhaus
Dientzenhofer and Andreas castle that towers over the town.
Gallasini, with richly decorated The town’s history is insepar ably
Baroque and Rococo interiors. linked with the 13th­century
Particularly noteworthy are the figure of Elisabeth of Thuringia,
Kaisersaal (imperial hall) on the wife of Ludwig IV, who devoted
ground floor, the magnificent her life to the poor and died
Fürstensaal (hall of princes) and here. In 1527, Philipp the
the charming Rococo-style Magnanimous founded the first
Spiegelsaal (chamber of mirrors) Protestant university in the Reich
on the first floor. Today, some at Marburg. He also instigated
of the palace chambers hold the first Marburg Colloquy in
an impressive collection of 1529, to unify the Protestant
porcelain. The palace complex faith. The “articles” presented by
includes a large landscaped Martin Luther to Melanchthon
garden. To the north of the Dom and Zwingli later formed the
stands the round Michaels- basis for the Augsburg Creed.
kirche, a Carolingian chapel Today, Marburg is a picturesque
dating from 822, one of the Half-timbered houses in Alsfeld university town. A tour of the The Alte Universität (old university) in Marburg
For hotels and restaurants in this area see pp499–500 and pp525–6


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Eyewitness Travel LAYERS PRINTED:
Catalogue template “UK” LAYER
(Source v2.2)
Date 15th January 2013
Size 125mm x 217mm

HESSE  373


house), dating from 1565. town should start from the
Opposite the town hall stands Elisabethkirche, at the bottom
the Stumpfhaus (1609), its of the hill. Built in 1235–83, it is
façade beautifully decorated (after Trier) Germany’s second
with wood carvings and pain­ purely Gothic church. There is a
tings. From the town hall runs large set of Gothic altars from
the picturesque Fulder Gasse, the early 16th century, including
with the Gothic parish church the altars of St Elisabeth (1513)
Wal purgiskirche (13th–15th and of the Holy Family (1511).
centuries), which has 15th­ Next to the north choir entrance
century wall paintings. In stands the statue of St Elisabeth
Rossmarkt stands the for mer with a model of the church
Augustian Dreifaltigkeits­ (1480). The choir contains
kirche (church of the the tomb of the Saint,
Holy Trinity), from the positioned under the The Gothic portal of the Elisabeth kirche
13th–15th centuries. baldachin (around in Marburg
It was from here that 1280). The vestry
in 1522 the monk houses the greatest (artists’ house). High above the
Tilemann Schnabel treasure, the reliquary town towers the Landgrafen­
began to spread the of St Elisabeth (1235– schloss, the landgraves’ castle
Reform ation in Alsfeld. 49). In the south choir dating from the 10th–16th
The Märchenhaus is an interesting group centuries. The two­storey
(Fairy­Tale House) on of monuments to the Fürstenbau (dukes’ building)
Markt has several rooms Hessian land graves, has a large ducal chamber,
devoted to the tales of from the 13th–16th dating from 1330. The
the Brothers Grimm and Detail on the Rat haus, centuries. Wilhelmsbau was built in
in Marburg
a collection of puppets. The Kunst­ 1492–8. It houses a museum
The 18th­century castle in museum Marburg of sacral art with mementos
Altenburg, 2 km (1 mile) from holds a collection of paintings of the debate between Luther,
Alsfeld, enjoys a hilltop position. that were prod uced after Zwingli and Melanchthon.
1500, with a predominance
of 19th­ and 20th­century R Elisabethkirche
6 Marburg German artists. Around the Elisabethstraße. Tel (06421) 655 73.
market square stands a group Open Apr–Sep: 9am–5pm; Oct:
Road map C4. * 80,000. £ 9am–5pm; Nov–Mar: 10am–4pm.
n Pilgrimstein 26 (06421­991 20). of historic, half­timbered
_ Maieinsingen (30 Apr), 3­Tage houses from the 14th–17th E Kunstmuseum Marburg
Marburg (Jul), Elisabethmarkt (Oct), centuries. Particularly pretty Biegenstraße 11. Tel (06421) 282 23
Weihnachtsmarkt (Dec). are the Sonne (sun, No. 14), 55. Closed for renovations. &
∑ marburg.de the Stiefel (boot, No. 17) and + Landgrafenschloß und
the house at No. 19. The
When in 1248 the county Steinernes Haus (stone house, Museum für Kulturgeschichte
Schloß 1. Tel (06421) 282 58 71.
of Hesse broke away from No. 18), built in 1318, is the Open 10am–6pm Tue–Sun
Thuringia, Marburg became one oldest in Marburg, along with (Nov–Mar: to 4pm). &
of the most important seats of that at No. 13 Hirschgasse.
the landgraves. The first land­ At No. 16 Markt is the
grave, Heinrich II, lived in the Renaissance Künstlerhaus
castle that towers over the town.
The town’s history is insepar ably
linked with the 13th­century
figure of Elisabeth of Thuringia,
wife of Ludwig IV, who devoted
her life to the poor and died
here. In 1527, Philipp the
Magnanimous founded the first
Protestant university in the Reich
at Marburg. He also instigated
the first Marburg Colloquy in
1529, to unify the Protestant
faith. The “articles” presented by
Martin Luther to Melanchthon
and Zwingli later formed the
basis for the Augsburg Creed.
Today, Marburg is a picturesque
university town. A tour of the The Alte Universität (old university) in Marburg




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374  WESTERN GERM AN Y HESSE  375

7 Gießen Along with the old stable block inspired Goethe to write his bridge. In Frankfurtstraße stands a Baroque palace built in 1678–
in Dammstraße, it is the only tragic novel, The Sorrows of Young the Heiliggrabkapelle (Chapel 86. It features a magnificent
Road map C4. * 72,000. £
n Berliner Platz 2 (0641-306 18 90). half-timbered building that Werther (1774). Jerusalem had of the Holy Sepulchre), dating Festsaal (ballroom) and
∑ giessen-entdecken.de has survived to this day. suffered unrequited love, just like from 1505. Spiegelkabinett (hall of mirrors).
Goethe. The novel, which was The only part of the former
Gießen was granted town status published two years later, made 0 Limburg complex remaining today is
in 1248, and in 1607 it acquired 8 Wetzlar Goethe famous around Europe, the 14th-century Weißer Turm
its university. In Brandplatz stands Road map C5. * 52,000. £ but it also unwittingly led many Road map B5. * 31,000. £ (white tower). Following the
the partially reconstructed Altes n Domplatz 8 (06441-997 755). young men to commit suicide. n Bahnhofsplatz 2 (06431-61 66). annexation of Hesse-Homburg
Schloß (old palace), dating from ∑ wetzlar.de by Prussia in 1866, the palace
the 14th–15th centuries. Now Limburg’s history dates back became the favourite summer
the home of the Oberhessisches Occupying a picturesque spot to the 8th century. In 1821, residence of the royal then
Museum, it holds a large on the banks of the Lahn river, the town became the see (from 1871) imperial family.
collection of art dating from Wetzlar is overlooked by the of a newly created diocese. Along with Baden-Baden and
the Gothic period to today. ruins of the 12th-century The Dom (collegiate cathedral Wiesbaden, Homburg was one
The Botanischer Garten is Kalsmunt fort ress. It was built church of St George) towers of Germany’s most fashionable
one of Germany’s oldest for the Emperor Friedrich I high above the Lahn river. Romanesque–Gothic wall paintings in the spas, and today the town reflects
botanical gardens, established Barbar ossa (1122–90). Only This monumental building, Dom in Limburg its former splendour. The Kurpark,
in 1609 for the purposes of parts of the tower remain intact. whose style combines late- a landscaped park established
scientific research. To the north of The Dom (Collegiate Church of Romanesque and early French- the 13th century. Near the in 1854–67, was designed by
it stands the Neues Schloß (new St Mary) was begun in 897 but Gothic, was erected in 1190– 14th-century Alte Lahnbrücke Peter Joseph Lenné.
palace), built in 1533–9 for by the late 15th century had only 1250. Its well-proportioned (old Lahn bridge), with its The Spielbank (1838), in
Landgrave Philipp the been partly completed. The interior contains a rich variety of defensive towers, stands a Brunnenallee claims to be the
Magnanimous. It miracul ously splendid western double portal historic artifacts, including some mansion belonging to the oldest casino in the world. Built
escaped damage when the town has remained unusable for the 13th-century wall paintings in Cistercians of Eberbach. The in 1887–90, the Kaiser-Wilhelm-
was bombed in 1944. The last 500 years – although the The Gothic south tower of the Dom the presbytery and the transept, post-Franciscan Sebastiankirche Bad is still used as the main
Wallenfelssches Haus nearby iconography of the tympanum in Wetzlar a font dating from the same (church of St Sebastian) dates bath complex for therapeutic
houses interesting ethnological was finished, the stairs leading period and the tombstone of from the 14th and 18th centuries. treatments. An Orthodox
collections. The only remaining to the entrance were never 9 Weilburg Konrad Kurzbold, who founded chapel, designed by Leonti
part of the Gothic Pfarrkirche St built. If they had been built, the first church on this site. Nikolayevich Benois for the
Pankratius, which was almost they would have led not to the Road map B5. * 13,500. £ To the south of the Dom q Bad Homburg Russian Orthodox nobility,
completely destroyed in 1944, church’s nave, but to a courtyard. n Mauerstraße 6 (06471-314 67). stands the Burg (castle), an Road map C5. * 52,000. £ was finished in 1899.
is its tower, dating from 1500. Wetzlar’s Dom is a rare, perhaps irregular structure built in the n Kurhaus, Louisenstraße 58 (06172-
At No. 2 Georg-Schloßer-Straße even unique surviving example Weilburg enjoys a parti cularly 13th–16th centuries. It houses 178 37 10). _ Fugato Organ Festival Environs
is the Burgmannen haus, an of the typical appearance of scenic location in a bend of the interesting Diözesan- (Sep every two years – next in, 2018), Saalburg, 7 km (4 miles) to
attractive half- most European churches in the the Lahn River. The town is museum (Diocese museum). Laternenfest (Sep yearly). the northwest, has a Roman
timbered mansion mid-15th century. Inside are dominated by the Renaissance– Limburg has many original fortress, which was completely
dating from the several interesting historic Baroque Schloß of the examples of beautiful half- Bad Homburg grew up around reconstructed in 1898–1901.
14th century. artifacts, including the statue of Nassau-Weilburg family. The timbered buildings. The houses a fortress whose earliest records The fortress formed part of the
the Madonna on the Moon monumental castle complex at No. 1 Römerstraße, No. 6 date back to 1180. Friedrich II limes, the fortified border that
Crescent (mid-15th century) and was created in stages. Its main Kolpingstraße, No. 4 Kleine von Hessen-Homburg initiated separated the Roman Empire
a late-Renaissance Crucifixion. section dates from the Rütsche and No. 11 Kornmarkt the con version of the medieval from its Germanic neighbours
In 1772, the young Johann Renaissance era; the east wing date from the last decade of castle into the Schloß, in the 1st to 3rd century AD.
Wolfgang Goethe spent was built in 1533–9; the south
three months in and west wings in 1540–48 and
Wetzlar working as the west tower in 1567. The
an apprentice at the northern part of the palace was
court of appeal. completed in 1570–73. In the
During this time he late-17th century, various
fell in love with Baroque additions were made,
Charlotte Buff, called mainly to the interior of the
Lotte, who was castle. The 16th-century
engaged to one of furnishings show the rich
Goethe’s friends. The ornamentation typical of the
Lottehaus, her former German Renaissance. The Obere
home, has a collection Orangerie (upper orangery),
of items relating to built in 1703–5 and today used
Goethe and Lotte. It for temporary exhibitions, and
was the suicide of a the Hofkirche (castle church),
friend, Karl Wilhelm dating from 1707–13, are the
Jerusalem, who lived work of Ludwig Rothweil.
in the 18th-century Terraces lead from the castle to
Jerusalemhaus at No. the Lahn river, which is crossed
Portal of the Altes Schloß in Gießen 5 Schillerplatz, that by an 18th-century stone The grand edifice of the Kaiser-Wilhelm-Bad in the Kurpark, Bad Homburg
For hotels and restaurants in this area see pp499–500 and pp525–6


374-375_EW_Germany.indd 374 09/10/17 2:30 pm 374-375_EW_Germany.indd 375 09/10/17 2:30 pm
Eyewitness Travel LAYERS PRINTED:
Catalogue template “UK” LAYER
(Source v2.2)
Date 15th January 2013
Size 125mm x 217mm

HESSE  375


bridge. In Frankfurtstraße stands a Baroque palace built in 1678–
the Heiliggrabkapelle (Chapel 86. It features a magnificent
of the Holy Sepulchre), dating Festsaal (ballroom) and
from 1505. Spiegelkabinett (hall of mirrors).
The only part of the former
0 Limburg complex remaining today is
the 14th-century Weißer Turm
Road map B5. * 31,000. £ (white tower). Following the
n Bahnhofsplatz 2 (06431-61 66). annexation of Hesse-Homburg
by Prussia in 1866, the palace
Limburg’s history dates back became the favourite summer
to the 8th century. In 1821, residence of the royal then
the town became the see (from 1871) imperial family.
of a newly created diocese. Along with Baden-Baden and
The Dom (collegiate cathedral Wiesbaden, Homburg was one
church of St George) towers of Germany’s most fashionable
high above the Lahn river. Romanesque–Gothic wall paintings in the spas, and today the town reflects
This monumental building, Dom in Limburg its former splendour. The Kurpark,
whose style combines late- a landscaped park established
Romanesque and early French- the 13th century. Near the in 1854–67, was designed by
Gothic, was erected in 1190– 14th-century Alte Lahnbrücke Peter Joseph Lenné.
1250. Its well-proportioned (old Lahn bridge), with its The Spielbank (1838), in
interior contains a rich variety of defensive towers, stands a Brunnenallee claims to be the
historic artifacts, including some mansion belonging to the oldest casino in the world. Built
13th-century wall paintings in Cistercians of Eberbach. The in 1887–90, the Kaiser-Wilhelm-
the presbytery and the transept, post-Franciscan Sebastiankirche Bad is still used as the main
a font dating from the same (church of St Sebastian) dates bath complex for therapeutic
period and the tombstone of from the 14th and 18th centuries. treatments. An Orthodox
Konrad Kurzbold, who founded chapel, designed by Leonti
the first church on this site. Nikolayevich Benois for the
To the south of the Dom q Bad Homburg Russian Orthodox nobility,
stands the Burg (castle), an Road map C5. * 52,000. £ was finished in 1899.
irregular structure built in the n Kurhaus, Louisenstraße 58 (06172-
13th–16th centuries. It houses 178 37 10). _ Fugato Organ Festival Environs
the interesting Diözesan- (Sep every two years – next in, 2018), Saalburg, 7 km (4 miles) to
museum (Diocese museum). Laternenfest (Sep yearly). the northwest, has a Roman
Limburg has many original fortress, which was completely
examples of beautiful half- Bad Homburg grew up around reconstructed in 1898–1901.
timbered buildings. The houses a fortress whose earliest records The fortress formed part of the
at No. 1 Römerstraße, No. 6 date back to 1180. Friedrich II limes, the fortified border that
Kolpingstraße, No. 4 Kleine von Hessen-Homburg initiated separated the Roman Empire
Rütsche and No. 11 Kornmarkt the con version of the medieval from its Germanic neighbours
date from the last decade of castle into the Schloß, in the 1st to 3rd century AD.





















The grand edifice of the Kaiser-Wilhelm-Bad in the Kurpark, Bad Homburg




374-375_EW_Germany.indd 375 09/10/17 2:30 pm

376  WESTERN GERM AN Y HESSE  377

w Eltville Wilhelm II to the designs of playing musical store and sell Eberbacher
Road map B5. * 17,000. £ the theatre architects Fellner instruments. Inside, Steinberg, a famous white
n Burgstraße 1 (06123-90 98 0). and Helmer. Adjacent to the the church harbours Rheingau wine.
_ Biedermeier-und Sektfest (Jul). Marktkirche is the attractive an incred ible wealth A short way to the west, in
Kurhauskolonnade (spa house of ancient art Winkel, stands the Baroque
In the 2nd century, the area colonnade). It was erected treasures. The high castle of Reichardshausen, which
that is now the old town was in 1825 and is the longest altar and St Catherine’s in the 19th century was the home
a Roman latifundium, a large colonnade in Europe. The early altar in the south aisle of Princess Luise von Nassau.
agricultural estate. In 1332, 20th-century Kurhaus (spa date from the late-
Eltville was granted town status. house) itself, with its grand Renaissance period. R Kloster Eberbach
Part of the Mainz diocese, it is façade and portico, is the work The magnificent Tel (06723) 91 78 100. Open Apr–Oct:
today known for its excellent of Friedrich Thiersch. Inside is Gothic stalls were 10am–7pm Mon–Fri, 9am–7pm Sat &
sparkling wine. the original Spielbank (casino), created in 1510, while Sun; Nov–Mar: 11am–6pm daily.
In 1337–45 the Burg (castle) The Baroque Biebrich Palace, south where Fyodor Dostoyevsky the church organ is Closed Carnival Mon, 24, 25, 31 Dec.
was extended at the request of Wiesbaden and Richard Wagner tried one of the oldest in & ∑ kloster-eberbach.de
of Archbishop Heinrich von their luck at the tables. Germany, with pipes
Virneburg. The east wing of the subsequent rapid growth of the To the south of the town made in 1310. Next t Rüdesheim
castle was added in 1682–3 by town as a spa resort in the 19th centre stands Schloß Biebrich, to the parish church Road map B5. * 10,000. £
Giovanni Angelo Barell. The only century, laid the foundations for where the counts von Nassau- stands a late-Gothic, n Rheinstrasse 29 (06722-906 150).
part of it remaining today is the its lasting prosperity. Today, the Usingen resided until the early two-storey funeral _ Fireworks (Jul), Weinfest (Aug).
five-storey residential tower; town is still dominated by large- 19th century. The Schloß was chapel built in 1445. ∑ ruedesheim.de
the rest of the building is a scale developments carried built in stages during the 18th Kiedrich has several
pic turesque ruin. In the tower out in the spirit and style of century. The north pavilion was interesting old Rüdesheim, enjoying a
are original 14th-century wall Classicism and Historicism. built first, in 1700, followed nine mansion houses, such picturesque location on the
paintings and friezes. The Stadtschloß (municipal years later by the south pavilion. as the Schwalbacher banks of the Rhine, has a long
The twin-naved Pfarrkirche castle), today the seat of the The wings, which join the two The ornate Gothic portal of Basilika St Valentin, Hof (1732). The history going back to Roman
St Peter und St Paul (parish state parliament, was built in pavilions, and the central rotunda in Kiedrich Rathaus (town hall) is times. The town is famous for
church) was built in 1350–1430. 1835–41. In Schloßplatz the were added during the first two evocative of the late- the Drosselgasse, a street lined
The vestibule has well- Neo-Renaissance Marktkirche, decades of the 18th century. r Kiedrich Gothic style, although it was with countless wine bars and
preserved wall paintings built in 1853–62, soars Finally, the two external wings Road map B5. * 3,400. £ built much later (1585–6). shops. There are also the remains
(1405) showing scenes above the town’s were added in 1734–44, n Markstr. 27 (06123-90 50 10). of two castles: the Boosenburg
from the Last other buildings. creating an overall horseshoe Environs and the 12th-century
Judgement. In front of the layout. The interior is richly The earliest recorded mention Five km (3 miles) west of Brömserburg, which also
The town church stands a furnished, predominantly in of Kiedrich was in the mid-10th Kiedrich, in Oestrich, is Kloster houses a wine museum.
boasts several statue of Wilhelm I Baroque-Rococo style. century, in a document Eberbach, a former Cistercian Rüdesheim also has several
attractive the Great von On the northern outskirts produced by the Archbishop abbey. This vast complex, built historic mansions, including the
mansions, Nassau-Oranien. of the town is a large hill, the Friedrich of Mainz. One of the between the 12th and 14th half-timbered Brömserhof (1559)
including Hof The oldest Neroberg, whose summit can town’s main attractions is the centuries, was once home to with a collection of musical
Langenwerth Crest of the Hessische Staats weingüter- building in be reached by funicular railway. Basilika St Valentin, a gem of nearly 300 monks and is one of instruments, and the early
von Simmern Vinothek, in Eltville the town is the At the top is the so-called Gothic architecture. The church the best-preserved medieval 16th-century Klunkhards hof.
(1773), Stock- Altes Rathaus Griechische Kapelle (Greek was built in stages, beginning monasteries in Germany. The Above the town towers the
heimer Hof (1550) and (old town hall), dating from chapel). Built in 1847–55 by with the main hall (1380–90). church interior provided the Niederwalddenkmal, a statue
Gräflich-Eltzscher Hof 1610. In Wilhelmstraße is the Philipp Hoffmann, it served The west tower was added in setting for some of the scenes of Germania, 10.5 m (34 ft) high,
(16th–17th century). imposing Neo-Renaissance as a mausoleum for Princess the early 15th century and the in the film The Name of the Rose, built to commemorate victory
and Neo-Baroque Hessisches Elisabeth von Nassau, the light, lofty choir in 1451–81. based on the novel by Umberto in the Franco-Prussian War of
e Wiesbaden Staats theater (state theatre). It niece of Alexander I Tsar of Some time later the central nave Eco. The Cistercians used to 1870–71, which resulted in
was built in 1892–4 for Kaiser Russia, who died young. was raised to the level of the have their own vineyards here, German unification. The
Road map C5. * 280,000. £
n Marktplatz 1 (0611-17 29 930). choir, creating a row of gal leries and today the abbey buildings monument can be reached by a
_ Internationale Maifestspiele (May), above the aisles, and at the are used by the Hessian Wine cable-car and affords views of
Theatrium (Jun), Rheingau Wine same time the magnificent star Co-operative to press, ferment, Rüdesheim and the Rhine valley.
Festival (Aug), Christmas Market vaults were created. The whole
(Nov–Dec). ∑ wiesbaden.de project was financed from
donations made by countless
Wiesbaden is the modern pilgrims who came to pray to
capital of Hesse. Highly valued the relics of St Valentine, kept
as a spa by the Romans, who here since 1454. A statue of
exploited the healing properties the saint adorns the western
of its waters, the town grew portal. The early 15th-century
from a small settlement known tympanum depicts the
as aquae mattiacorum after the Annunciation (on the left) and
Germanic tribe of the Mattiacs. the Coronation of the Virgin Mary
In 1774 the Nassau-Usingen (on the right); above is an image
family chose Wiesbaden as their of God the Father giving His
residence. This, as well as the The attractive façade of Hessisches Staatstheater in Wiesbaden Blessing, with two archangels Gabled and half-timbered houses in Drosselgasse, in Rüdesheim
For hotels and restaurants in this area see pp499–500 and pp525–6


376-377_EW_Germany.indd 376 09/10/17 2:30 pm 376-377_EW_Germany.indd 377 09/10/17 2:30 pm
Eyewitness Travel LAYERS PRINTED:
Catalogue template “UK” LAYER
(Source v2.2)
Date 15th January 2013
Size 125mm x 217mm

HESSE  377


playing musical store and sell Eberbacher
instruments. Inside, Steinberg, a famous white
the church harbours Rheingau wine.
an incred ible wealth A short way to the west, in
of ancient art Winkel, stands the Baroque
treasures. The high castle of Reichardshausen, which
altar and St Catherine’s in the 19th century was the home
altar in the south aisle of Princess Luise von Nassau.
date from the late-
Renaissance period. R Kloster Eberbach
The magnificent Tel (06723) 91 78 100. Open Apr–Oct:
Gothic stalls were 10am–7pm Mon–Fri, 9am–7pm Sat &
created in 1510, while Sun; Nov–Mar: 11am–6pm daily.
the church organ is Closed Carnival Mon, 24, 25, 31 Dec.
one of the oldest in & ∑ kloster-eberbach.de
Germany, with pipes
made in 1310. Next t Rüdesheim
to the parish church
stands a late-Gothic, Road map B5. * 10,000. £
n Rheinstrasse 29 (06722-906 150).
two-storey funeral _ Fireworks (Jul), Weinfest (Aug).
chapel built in 1445. ∑ ruedesheim.de
Kiedrich has several
interesting old Rüdesheim, enjoying a
mansion houses, such picturesque location on the
as the Schwalbacher banks of the Rhine, has a long
The ornate Gothic portal of Basilika St Valentin, Hof (1732). The history going back to Roman
in Kiedrich Rathaus (town hall) is times. The town is famous for
evocative of the late- the Drosselgasse, a street lined
r Kiedrich Gothic style, although it was with countless wine bars and
built much later (1585–6). shops. There are also the remains
Road map B5. * 3,400. £
n Markstr. 27 (06123-90 50 10). of two castles: the Boosenburg
Environs and the 12th-century
The earliest recorded mention Five km (3 miles) west of Brömserburg, which also
of Kiedrich was in the mid-10th Kiedrich, in Oestrich, is Kloster houses a wine museum.
century, in a document Eberbach, a former Cistercian Rüdesheim also has several
produced by the Archbishop abbey. This vast complex, built historic mansions, including the
Friedrich of Mainz. One of the between the 12th and 14th half-timbered Brömserhof (1559)
town’s main attractions is the centuries, was once home to with a collection of musical
Basilika St Valentin, a gem of nearly 300 monks and is one of instruments, and the early
Gothic architecture. The church the best-preserved medieval 16th-century Klunkhards hof.
was built in stages, beginning monasteries in Germany. The Above the town towers the
with the main hall (1380–90). church interior provided the Niederwalddenkmal, a statue
The west tower was added in setting for some of the scenes of Germania, 10.5 m (34 ft) high,
the early 15th century and the in the film The Name of the Rose, built to commemorate victory
light, lofty choir in 1451–81. based on the novel by Umberto in the Franco-Prussian War of
Some time later the central nave Eco. The Cistercians used to 1870–71, which resulted in
was raised to the level of the have their own vineyards here, German unification. The
choir, creating a row of gal leries and today the abbey buildings monument can be reached by a
above the aisles, and at the are used by the Hessian Wine cable-car and affords views of
same time the magnificent star Co-operative to press, ferment, Rüdesheim and the Rhine valley.
vaults were created. The whole
project was financed from
donations made by countless
pilgrims who came to pray to
the relics of St Valentine, kept
here since 1454. A statue of
the saint adorns the western
portal. The early 15th-century
tympanum depicts the
Annunciation (on the left) and
the Coronation of the Virgin Mary
(on the right); above is an image
of God the Father giving His
Blessing, with two archangels Gabled and half-timbered houses in Drosselgasse, in Rüdesheim




376-377_EW_Germany.indd 377 09/10/17 2:30 pm

378  WESTERN GERM AN Y FR ANKFUR T A M M AIN  379

y Frankfurt am Main Dismantled stone by stone P Römerberg VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
during the construction of the Located in the centre of
Frankfurt, nicknamed “Mainhattan” and “Chicago am Main” town’s underground system, it Frankfurt’s old town, this square Practical Information
because of its skyscrapers, is one of the main economic and was reassembled in its original contains the Gerechtigkeits- Road map C5. * 660,000.
n Hauptbahnhof (069-21 23 88
cultural centres of both Germany and Europe. The head­ form following the completion brunnen (fountain of justice). Its 00); Römerberg 27 (069-21 23 88
quarters of many major banks and newspaper publishers of the project. Since 1904 the highlight, how ever, is the Römer 00). _ Dippemesse (spring,
Hauptwache has been a chic café
(literally the Roman). So-called
are based here, including those of the Frankfurter Allgemeine and a popular meeting place. after the remains of ancient autumn), Wäldchestag (Whitsun),
Zeitung, one of Europe’s most influential newspapers. Portal of the Goethehaus, with the settlements, it is a complex of Kunsthandwerk Heute (May/Jun),
The city’s International Book Fair is the world’s largest P Goethehaus ancestral family crest 15th- to 18th-century houses, Mainfest (Aug), Book Fair (Oct),
Christkindlmarkt (Dec).
event of its kind. Goethe was born in Frankfurt, and the Großer Hirschgraben 23. Tel (069) 13 including the Altes Rathaus (old ∑ frankfurt-tourismus.de
Johann­Wolfgang­Goethe­Universität is one of Germany’s 88 00. Open 10am–6pm Mon–Sat, R Paulskirche town hall), which were rebuilt
10am–5:30pm Sun. &
after World War II. Opposite is a
Paulsplatz 11. Tel (069) 21 23 49 20.
most famous universities. The city also boasts magnificent ∑ goethehaus-frankfurt.de Open 10am–5pm daily. group of half-timbered houses, 1464 for a Cologne silk merchant.
art collections. Southwest of the Hauptwache is The distinctive Neo-Classical com monly referred to as Ostzeile. It has been reconstructed and is
Johann Wolfgang Goethe’s family rotunda of the church was begun The Steinernes Haus (stone now the home of the Frankfurter
home. The great German poet, in 1786 but not completed until house) was originally built in Kunstverein (artists’ league).
novelist and dramatist was born 1833, due to continuous
here on 28 August 1749. The hostilities with France. Today,
house, along with many other however, this building is no
buildings in Frankfurt, was totally longer thought of, or indeed used
destroyed in World War II, but as, a church. After the first, albeit
later lovingly restored. Its interior ill-fated, German National
was reconstructed to represent Assembly met here following the
the style typical of the mid- to revolutionary upheavals of 1848–
late 18th century. Goethe lived 9, the church became a symbol of
in this house until 1775, when republican and liberal Germany.
he moved to Weimar. The desk The Pauls kirche now serves as a
at which he wrote his early venue for many important events.
works, including the first Each year the awards ceremony
versions of Götz von Berlichingen for the prestigious German
(1771) and Egmont (1774), has Publishers’ Peace Prize takes
been preserved. place here. The Ostzeile on the Römerberg, one of the symbols of Frankfurt
The adjacent building now
houses the Goethemuseum.
The Neo-Renaissance façade of the Alte Oper Opened in 1997, the museum Frankfurt City Centre
recreates the atmosphere of the
F Alte Oper bay windows; it also has two 1750–1830 period, and holds 1 Alte Oper ES C HENHEI MER AN L A G E
BLEICHSTRASSE
Opernplatz 1. Tel (069) 134 00. reliefs de picting eagles, the a collection of items related to 2 Eschenheimer Turm BOCKENHEIMER A N LAGE Eschenheimer
Turm
The monumental old opera symbol of the German Empire the writer. There is an excellent 3 Börse Eschenheimer SEILERSTR.
Tor
house stands near the Stock and the city of Frankfurt. library, which contains some 4 Hauptwache WEG REUTER- Alte HOCHSTRASSE TAUBENSTR. STEPHANS TR. SCHÄFERG. STRASSE
Exchange. Built in 1872–80, it was of his writings. 5 Goethehaus Oper SCHILLERSTR. ESCHEN- HEIMERSTR.
completely burned down during P Börse 6 Paulskirche Börse Konstablerwache
LANDSTR.
World War II. Subsequently Börsenplatz. 7 Römerberg MAINZER Alte Oper Hauptwache ZEIL K.-ADENAUER- K.-SCHUMACHER-STR.
rebuilt, it is today used as a According to historical records, 8 St Leonhardskirche Hauptwache Liebfrauen- FAHR GASSE
conference centre. Its façade and local merchants founded the 9 Historisches Museum JUNGHOFSTRASSE kirche Museum für
decorat ions are a fine imitation town’s first Stock Exchange in 0 Nikolaikirche Maintower ROSSMARKT Kleinmarkthalle Moderne Kunst HANAU
of the Italian Renaissance style. 1558. The new building, q Kunsthalle Schirn TAUNUSANLAGE NEUE MAINZER STR.
designed by Heinrich Burnitz and w Kaiserdom Goethehaus BERLINER STRASSE Paulskirche
P Eschenheimer Turm Oskar Sommer, was erected in e Museum für Moderne Kunst Dom Rőmer RÖMERBERG Kaiserdom
Große Eschenheimer Straße. 1864–79. It has been used r Ikonen-Museum Willy-Brandt- Nikolaikirche Kunsthalle
Platz
Schirn
The Eschenheimer again by stockbrokers since t Museum für Hauptbahnhof Historisches
400m (450 yards)
Alte
Turm, at the corner of 1957, and is open to Angewandte Kunst Oper & Archäolo- St Leonhards- Museum Brücke
gisches
Hochstraße, presents a the public. Like the old y Deutsches Architekturmuseum Schauspielhaus Museum kirche
silhouette typical of opera house, the u Jüdisches Museum Main SACHSENHÄUSER UFER
old Frankfurt. A relic stock exchange is i Städelsches Kunstinstitut GUTLEUTSTR. Museum Museum für Museum
Ikonen-
WILHELM-
of the medieval Putti with model ship, at the designed in Neo- -LEUSCHNER-STR. Jüdisches Angewandte
Untermain-
Kunst
town’s fortifi cations, front of the Börse Renaissance style. UNTERMAINKAI brücke Museum der WALTER-KOLB-STR.
Deutsches
it was designed by Architekturmuseum Weltkulturen
Klaus Mengoz; construction P Hauptwache SCHWEIZER STR. GARTENSTR.
began in 1400 and was An der Hauptwache. SCHAUMAINKAI Städelsches
Kunstinstitut
completed in 1428 by Madern Built in 1730, the Hauptwache 0 metres 400 Schweizer
Gerthener. The façade of the was originally a guardhouse. The distinctive Neo-Classical rotunda of Liebieghaus Platz
tower features many attractive Later it was turned into a prison. the Paulskirche 0 yards 400 Flughafen
13 km (8 miles)
For hotels and restaurants in this area see pp499–500 and pp525–6 For additional map symbols see back flap
378-379_EW_Germany.indd 378 09/10/17 2:30 pm 378-379_EW_Germany.indd 379 09/10/17 2:30 pm
Eyewitness Travel LAYERS PRINTED:
Catalogue template “UK” LAYER
(Source v2.2)
Date 15th January 2013
Size 125mm x 217mm

FR ANKFUR T A M M AIN  379


P Römerberg VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
Located in the centre of
Frankfurt’s old town, this square Practical Information
contains the Gerechtigkeits- Road map C5. * 660,000.
brunnen (fountain of justice). Its n Hauptbahnhof (069-21 23 88
highlight, how ever, is the Römer 00); Römerberg 27 (069-21 23 88
(literally the Roman). So-called 00). _ Dippemesse (spring,
after the remains of ancient autumn), Wäldchestag (Whitsun),
Portal of the Goethehaus, with the settlements, it is a complex of Kunsthandwerk Heute (May/Jun),
ancestral family crest 15th- to 18th-century houses, Mainfest (Aug), Book Fair (Oct),
Christkindlmarkt (Dec).
including the Altes Rathaus (old ∑ frankfurt-tourismus.de
R Paulskirche town hall), which were rebuilt
Paulsplatz 11. Tel (069) 21 23 49 20. after World War II. Opposite is a
Open 10am–5pm daily. group of half-timbered houses, 1464 for a Cologne silk merchant.
The distinctive Neo-Classical com monly referred to as Ostzeile. It has been reconstructed and is
rotunda of the church was begun The Steinernes Haus (stone now the home of the Frankfurter
in 1786 but not completed until house) was originally built in Kunstverein (artists’ league).
1833, due to continuous
hostilities with France. Today,
however, this building is no
longer thought of, or indeed used
as, a church. After the first, albeit
ill-fated, German National
Assembly met here following the
revolutionary upheavals of 1848–
9, the church became a symbol of
republican and liberal Germany.
The Pauls kirche now serves as a
venue for many important events.
Each year the awards ceremony
for the prestigious German
Publishers’ Peace Prize takes
place here. The Ostzeile on the Römerberg, one of the symbols of Frankfurt

Frankfurt City Centre
1 Alte Oper ES C HENHEI MER AN L A G E
2 Eschenheimer Turm BLEICHSTRASSE
Turm
3 Börse BOCKENHEIMER A N LAGE Eschenheimer Eschenheimer SEILERSTR.
4 Hauptwache WEG REUTER- HOCHSTRASSE Tor STEPHANS TR.
5 Goethehaus Alte TAUBENSTR. ESCHEN- HEIMERSTR. SCHÄFERG. STRASSE
Oper
6 Paulskirche Börse SCHILLERSTR. Konstablerwache
7 Römerberg MAINZER Alte Oper Hauptwache ZEIL K.-ADENAUER- K.-SCHUMACHER-STR.
8 St Leonhardskirche LANDSTR. Hauptwache Liebfrauen- FAHR GASSE
9 Historisches Museum JUNGHOFSTRASSE kirche Museum für
0 Nikolaikirche Maintower ROSSMARKT Kleinmarkthalle Moderne Kunst HANAU
q Kunsthalle Schirn TAUNUSANLAGE NEUE MAINZER STR.
w Kaiserdom Goethehaus BERLINER STRASSE Paulskirche
e Museum für Moderne Kunst Dom Rőmer RÖMERBERG Kaiserdom
r Ikonen-Museum Willy-Brandt- Nikolaikirche Kunsthalle
Platz
Schirn
Hauptbahnhof
t Museum für 400m (450 yards) Historisches Alte
Angewandte Kunst Oper & Archäolo- St Leonhards- Museum Brücke
gisches
kirche
y Deutsches Architekturmuseum Schauspielhaus Museum
u Jüdisches Museum GUTLEUTSTR. Main SACHSENHÄUSER UFER Ikonen-
WILHELM-
Museum
i Städelsches Kunstinstitut -LEUSCHNER-STR. Jüdisches Museum für Museum
UNTERMAINKAI
Angewandte
Untermain-
Kunst
brücke
Museum der
Deutsches
Weltkulturen
Architekturmuseum SCHWEIZER STR. WALTER-KOLB-STR.
SCHAUMAINKAI Städelsches GARTENSTR.
Kunstinstitut
0 metres 400 Schweizer
Liebieghaus Platz
0 yards 400 Flughafen
13 km (8 miles)
For additional map symbols see back flap
378-379_EW_Germany.indd 379 09/10/17 2:30 pm

380  WESTERN GERM AN Y FR ANKFUR T AM M AIN  381


E Jüdisches Museum E Kunsthalle Schirn E Museum für P Liebieghaus
Untermainkai 14–15. Tel (069) 21 23 50 Römerberg 6. Tel (069) 299 88 20. Angewandte Kunst Schaumainkai 71. Tel (069) 605 098
00. Open 10am–5pm Tue, Thu–Sun, Open 10am–7pm Tue, Fri–Sun, 10am– Schaumainkai 17. Tel (069) 21 23 12 86. 200. Open 10am–6pm Tue–Sun (to
10am–8pm Wed). & 10pm Wed & Thu. & ∑ schirn.de Open 10am–6pm Tue–Sun (to 8pm 9pm Thu). & ∑ liebieghaus.de
∑ juedischesmuseum.de One of Europe’s most prestigious Wed). & ∑ museumangewandte Built for the Czech industri alist
The Jewish community of exhibition buildings, the kunst.de Baron Heinrich Liebieg in 1896,
Frankfurt was the second largest Kunsthalle opened in 1986. It The Museum of Applied Arts today this building houses a
in Germany, after that of Berlin. hosts temporary art exhibitions was opened in 1983, in a museum of sculpture, with
This museum, in the former featuring archaeological themes building designed by Richard works ranging from antiquity
Rothschild Palace, documents and the work of old masters and Meier. He used a Biedermeier through to Mannerism, Baroque
their rich cultural heritage. contemporary artists. house, the Villa Metzler, and and Rococo. The museum also
added a modern wing. The has superb examples of ancient
R St Leonhardskirche R Kaiserdom museum has a collection of Egyptian and Far Eastern art, as
Am Leonhardstor 25. Tel (069) 297 03 Domplatz 14. Tel (069) 297 03 20. some 30,000 objects of applied well as works from the Middle
20. Open 9am–noon & 4–6pm Mon & Open 8am–8pm daily (from noon Fri; art from Europe and Asia. Ages and the Renaissance. Its
Tue, 9am–noon & 4–5pm Wed & Thu, from 9am Sat & Sun). Dommuseum: Nearby, in a villa in highlights are the works of Neo­
9am–noon Fri. Tel (069) 13 37 61 84. Open 10am– Schaumainkai, is the small Classical masters such as Antonio
Close to the banks of the Main, 5pm Tue–Fri, 11am–5pm Sat & Sun. & Hollein’s modern design, housing the but fascinating Museum der Canova, Bertel Thorwaldsen and
the church of St Leonhard is a fine The early-Gothic Alte Nikolaikirche, in ∑ dommuseum-frankfurt.de Museum für Moderne Kunst Weltkulturen (ethnography Johann Heinrich Dannecker.
example of Gothic and Frankfurt’s Römerberg Near the archaeological park, museum), which is worth a visit.
Romanesque architecture. A five- where the ruins of a Carolin gian and includes works by Roy
naved hall-church with an a fascinating model of the fortress have been unearthed, Lichtenstein, Andy Warhol and E Deutsches
elongated choir, it was built in medieval town, a collection of stands the imperial cathedral, Claes Oldenburg. Temporary Architekturmuseum
stages in the 13th and 15th local prehistoric finds and sev eral used for the coronation of exhibitions focus on multimedia Schaumainkai 43. Tel (069) 21 23 88
centuries. Its many treasures decorative architectural frag- German kings from 1356, shows, incorporating photo­ 44. Open 11am–6pm Tue, Thu–Sun,
include a copy of Leonardo da ments from buildings that were and of Holy Roman Emperors graphy and video art. 11am–8pm Wed. & ∑ dam-
Vinci’s Last Supper by Hans destroyed during World War II. from 1562. The cathedral, online.de
Holbein the Elder, from 1501. The adjacent building is the dedicated to St Bartholomew P Ikonen-Museum One of the most interesting
Next to it is St Mary’s altar, created Saalhof, which dates back to the and Charlemagne, was built Brückenstraße 3–7. Tel (069) 21 23 62 museums in the Schaumainkai
by master craftsmen from time of the Emperor Fried rich I between the 13th and 15th 62. Open 11am–6pm Tue–Sun. & complex is undoubtedly the
Antwerp in 1515–20. On the Barbarossa (1122–90). New centuries on the site of a The museum of icons holds museum of architecture, in an
north wall of the choir is a fresco exhibition rooms are expected Carolingian chapel. It has several an extensive collection of avant­garde building designed
depicting the Tree of Life and the to open during 2017. priceless masterpieces of Gothic Russian­Orthodox icons from by Oswald Mathias Ungers. The
Apostles (1536) by Hans Dietz. art, including the magnificent the 16th–19th centuries. It is museum has a permanent
R Alte Nikolaikirche 15th-century Maria-Schlaf-Altar housed in the Deutschordens­ collection as well as tempor ary
E Historisches Museum Römerberg 11. Tel (069) 28 42 35. and a high altar dating from the haus, originally built in 1709– exhibitions concentrating
Fahrtor 2 (Römerberg). Tel (069) 21 23 Open Apr–Oct: 10am–8pm daily; Nov– second half of the 15th century. 15 by Maximilian von Welsch mainly on developments in
55 99. Open 10am–5pm Tue, Thu–Sun, Mar: 10am–6pm daily. The choir has original 14th- for the Order of the Teutonic 20th­century architecture. The Liebieghaus, home of the museum
10am–9pm Wed. & ∑ historisches- This twin-naved church was century stalls; above these Knights. The present building Nearby, at No 41 of sculpture
museum.frankfurt.de consecrated in 1290. Used as there is a fresco painted in 1427 is a faithful copy of the earlier Schaumainkai, is the Deutsches
The building housing the a court church until the late which depicts scenes from Baroque three­wing structure, Filmmuseum, which holds E Naturmuseum
history museum was finished in 15th century, it now serves a the life of St Bartholomew. which was destroyed during documents and objects relating Senckenberg
1972. The museum has an inter- Lutheran congregation. Its The Dom’s huge tower affords World War II. Inside is the to the art of film making and Senckenberganlage 25. Tel (069) 754
esting display of items relating many statues of St Nicholas some magnificent views of 14th­century Teutonic Church the development of film 20. Open 9am–5pm Mon, Tue, Thu
to Frankfurt’s history, including (Santa Claus) are popular. the town. While in the cloisters of St Mary, with original altars technology. The museum has its & Fri, 9am–8pm Wed, 9am–6pm
is the Dom museum which and 14th­ to 17th­century own cinema, which shows old Sat & Sun. & ∑ senckenberg.de
has an interesting collection wall paintings. and often long­forgotten films. This museum, situated
of liturgical objects, sacred art near the university, is one
and precious artifacts. of the best natural history
museums in Germany.
E Museum für Moderne Besides a vast collection
Kunst (MMK) of plants and animals,
Domstraße 10. Tel (069) 21 23 04 47. including dinosaur skeletons,
Open 10am–6pm Tue & Thu–Sun, it contains human and animal
10am–8pm Wed. & ∑ mmk- mummies from Egypt.
frankfurt.de
The modern art museum Environs
occupies a building that looks Hanau, 30 km (19 miles)
like a slice of cake. It was east of Frankfurt, is the birth­
designed by Hans Hollein place of the Grimm brothers.
in 1989–92. The museum’s An exhibition devoted to their
collection represents all the lives and work is held at the
major artistic trends from the local history museum, in
The magnificent late-Gothic high altar in the Kaiserdom 1960s until the present day, The Deutsches Architekturmuseum, in Schaumainkai Philippsruhe, a Baroque palace.
For hotels and restaurants in this area see pp499–500 and pp525–6


380-381_EW_Germany.indd 380 09/10/17 2:30 pm 380-381_EW_Germany.indd 381 09/10/17 2:30 pm
Eyewitness Travel LAYERS PRINTED:
Catalogue template “UK” LAYER
(Source v2.2)
Date 15th January 2013
Size 125mm x 217mm

FR ANKFUR T AM M AIN  381


E Museum für P Liebieghaus
Angewandte Kunst Schaumainkai 71. Tel (069) 605 098
Schaumainkai 17. Tel (069) 21 23 12 86. 200. Open 10am–6pm Tue–Sun (to
Open 10am–6pm Tue–Sun (to 8pm 9pm Thu). & ∑ liebieghaus.de
Wed). & ∑ museumangewandte Built for the Czech industri alist
kunst.de Baron Heinrich Liebieg in 1896,
The Museum of Applied Arts today this building houses a
was opened in 1983, in a museum of sculpture, with
building designed by Richard works ranging from antiquity
Meier. He used a Biedermeier through to Mannerism, Baroque
house, the Villa Metzler, and and Rococo. The museum also
added a modern wing. The has superb examples of ancient
museum has a collection of Egyptian and Far Eastern art, as
some 30,000 objects of applied well as works from the Middle
art from Europe and Asia. Ages and the Renaissance. Its
Nearby, in a villa in highlights are the works of Neo­
Schaumainkai, is the small Classical masters such as Antonio
Hollein’s modern design, housing the but fascinating Museum der Canova, Bertel Thorwaldsen and
Museum für Moderne Kunst Weltkulturen (ethnography Johann Heinrich Dannecker.
museum), which is worth a visit.
and includes works by Roy
Lichtenstein, Andy Warhol and E Deutsches
Claes Oldenburg. Temporary Architekturmuseum
exhibitions focus on multimedia Schaumainkai 43. Tel (069) 21 23 88
shows, incorporating photo­ 44. Open 11am–6pm Tue, Thu–Sun,
graphy and video art. 11am–8pm Wed. & ∑ dam-
online.de
P Ikonen-Museum One of the most interesting
Brückenstraße 3–7. Tel (069) 21 23 62 museums in the Schaumainkai
62. Open 11am–6pm Tue–Sun. & complex is undoubtedly the
The museum of icons holds museum of architecture, in an
an extensive collection of avant­garde building designed
Russian­Orthodox icons from by Oswald Mathias Ungers. The
the 16th–19th centuries. It is museum has a permanent
housed in the Deutschordens­ collection as well as tempor ary
haus, originally built in 1709– exhibitions concentrating
15 by Maximilian von Welsch mainly on developments in
for the Order of the Teutonic 20th­century architecture. The Liebieghaus, home of the museum
Knights. The present building Nearby, at No 41 of sculpture
is a faithful copy of the earlier Schaumainkai, is the Deutsches
Baroque three­wing structure, Filmmuseum, which holds E Naturmuseum
which was destroyed during documents and objects relating Senckenberg
World War II. Inside is the to the art of film making and Senckenberganlage 25. Tel (069) 754
14th­century Teutonic Church the development of film 20. Open 9am–5pm Mon, Tue, Thu
of St Mary, with original altars technology. The museum has its & Fri, 9am–8pm Wed, 9am–6pm
and 14th­ to 17th­century own cinema, which shows old Sat & Sun. & ∑ senckenberg.de
wall paintings. and often long­forgotten films. This museum, situated
near the university, is one
of the best natural history
museums in Germany.
Besides a vast collection
of plants and animals,
including dinosaur skeletons,
it contains human and animal
mummies from Egypt.
Environs
Hanau, 30 km (19 miles)
east of Frankfurt, is the birth­
place of the Grimm brothers.
An exhibition devoted to their
lives and work is held at the
local history museum, in
The Deutsches Architekturmuseum, in Schaumainkai Philippsruhe, a Baroque palace.




380-381_EW_Germany.indd 381 09/10/17 2:30 pm

382  WESTERN GERM AN Y FR ANKFUR T A M M AIN  383

Frankfurt – Städelsches Kunstinstitut . Lucca Madonna VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
This small painting by Jan van Eyck,
The founder of this excellent museum, . The Geographer which evokes an intimate and Practical Information
intensely private
banker Johann Friedrich Städel, left his (1669) atmosphere, takes its Schaumainkai 63. Tel (069) 605
art collection to the town in 1815. Since Although the signature name from its former 09 80. Open 10am–6pm Tue–
Wed & Sat–Sun, 10am–9pm Thu
then, the museum has grown through on the painting is not owner, Charles Ludwig & Fri. & - = 8
acquisitions and donations, and now genuine, there is no de Bourbon, Duke ∑ staedelmuseum.de
doubt that this picture,
contains many masterpieces from seven depicting a scholar at of Lucca.
centuries of European art. It moved to a work, is the work of
Neo-Renaissance building in 1878, on the Jan Vermeer van Delft.
picturesque “museum embankment” by
the Main. In the 1920s it acquired the
Hohenzollern collection from Sigmar-
ingen. The museum has undergone
renovation and new buildings have been
constructed, including a subterranean Ideal Portrait of a
exhibition hall for contemporary art. Woman (around 1480)
Simonetta Vespucci,
mistress of Giuliano
Medici, is the subject of
Ecce Homo this painting by Sandro
Members of the family who Botticelli. Her pendant
commissioned this painting belonged at the time to
from Hieronymus Bosch also Second the Medici collection.
originally figured in it, but floor
they were later painted over
and now only a few figures
are partially visible.
First floor











Pilgrimage to the Isle of Cythera (around 1710)
Jean-Antoine Watteau painted three pictures on this
theme, inspired by Dancourt’s play The Three Sisters.
The museum holds the earliest of the three, which
shows a Flemish influence.
. Blinding of Samson (1636)
Rembrandt’s dramatic painting depicts the
violent blinding of Samson by the Philistines
after Delilah cut off his hair.
Ground
floor
Gallery Guide
The ground floor is used for Orchestra Players
changing exhibitions of prints Around 100,000 prints Key (1870–74)
and drawings, as well as a book and drawings, dating Edgar Degas, not
store and a museum shop. The from the 14th century Old Master Paintings completely satisfied with his
1300–1800
first floor is devoted to 19th- and to the present day painting, retrieved it from its
20th-century art and the second and making up one of Main entrance Modern Art 1800–1945 owner. In 1874, he cropped
floor to the Old Masters. An Germany’s most valuable Special Exhibitions it on three sides, added a bit
under ground wing houses collections, are exhibited Library Department of Prints at the top and repainted
contemporary art. in this exhibition hall. and Drawings the entire painting.
For hotels and restaurants in this area see pp499–500 and pp525–6


382-383_EW_Germany.indd 382 09/10/17 2:31 pm 382-383_EW_Germany.indd 383 09/10/17 2:31 pm

FR ANKFUR T A M M AIN  383


. Lucca Madonna VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
This small painting by Jan van Eyck,
which evokes an intimate and Practical Information
intensely private Schaumainkai 63. Tel (069) 605
atmosphere, takes its 09 80. Open 10am–6pm Tue–
name from its former Wed & Sat–Sun, 10am–9pm Thu
owner, Charles Ludwig & Fri. & - = 8
de Bourbon, Duke ∑ staedelmuseum.de
of Lucca.








Ideal Portrait of a
Woman (around 1480)
Simonetta Vespucci,
mistress of Giuliano
Medici, is the subject of
this painting by Sandro
Botticelli. Her pendant
Second belonged at the time to
floor the Medici collection.

















Pilgrimage to the Isle of Cythera (around 1710)
Jean-Antoine Watteau painted three pictures on this
theme, inspired by Dancourt’s play The Three Sisters.
The museum holds the earliest of the three, which
shows a Flemish influence.



Ground
floor


Orchestra Players
Key (1870–74)
Edgar Degas, not
Old Master Paintings completely satisfied with his
1300–1800
painting, retrieved it from its
Modern Art 1800–1945 owner. In 1874, he cropped
Special Exhibitions it on three sides, added a bit
Department of Prints at the top and repainted
and Drawings the entire painting.



382-383_EW_Germany.indd 383 09/10/17 2:31 pm

384  WESTERN GERM AN Y HESSE  385


u Darmstadt to the south and west. The behind the museum is the a guest room or court- Nearby stands the late-Gothic,
Schloß was bombed in World Baroque Prinz-Georg-Palais room, and were from 15th-century Pfarrkirche St
Road map C5. * 138,000. £ War II and subsequently rebuilt. (1710), which houses the the 14th century used Michael (parish church of St
n Luisencenter, Luisenplatz 5 (06151-
134 511). _ Days of Art Nouveau Today it houses part of the Großherzoglich-Hessische as a chapel. Remains of Michael). Inside are some
(May), Schloßgrabenfest (May), Technical University, while the Porzellansammlung, an the original wall paint- interesting epitaphs including
Heinerfest (early Jul), Herbstfest (Oct). Glockenbau is home to the extensive porcelain collection. ings are still visible here. the double tombstone of
∑ darmstadt-tourismus.de fascinating Schloßmuseum The last Grand Duke of Hesse, The façade is decorated Philipp I and Georg I, dating
(castle museum). As well as Ernst Ludwig, was an important with red and white from the late 15th century. A
The earliest historical records of a splendid collection of coaches patron of the Jugendstil, the stone mosaics inspired true rarity is the 18th-century
Darmstadt, which was probably and furniture, it contains the German Art Nouveau by Franco-Merovingian synagogue, which escaped
named after Dari mund, a famous Darmstädter movement. He initiated the art. The vertical divides, being burned by the National
Frankonian settler, date from the Madonna (1526), by Holbein. building of an exhibition created by pilasters and Socialists in 1938.
12th century. Until 1479, the Also worth seeing, and residential complex, entablature, are copies In the Steinbach district of
castle and the town belonged to the late-Renaissance the Mathildenhöhe, of ancient designs – an Michelstadt stands the
the Counts von Katzenelnbogen, Rathaus (town hall), built which was established archi tectural feature Einhardsbasilika, a church
and later to Hessian landgraves. in 1588–90, survived in 1901 in the grounds typical of the Carolingian dating from around 821. The
In 1567, the Landgraves von World War II. The of the former ducal Renaissance. The first church built on this site,
Hessen-Darmstadt chose 15th-century choir of park, to serve the The Carolingian Torhalle (gate-house) of the Kloster chapel’s high roof and at the initiative of Einhard, a
Darmstadt as their residence, the Stadtkirche existing artists’ colony (abbey) in Lorsch vaults date from the courtier of Charlemagne, was
and they lived here until 1918. has an enormous led by Joseph Maria 14th century. a small, pillared and vaulted
To the north of the old town monument (1587) to Olbrich. Olbrich designed i Lorsch basilica with a short choir
stands the Residen z schloß, Magda lena zur Lippe, the Ernst-Ludwig-Haus, Road map C5. * 10,700. ending with a rounded apse.
initially a ducal palace, and first wife of Landgrave which now houses the n Marktplatz 1 (06251-175 26 0). o Michelstadt Under the eastern section is a
from 1806 residence of the Georg I the Pious. To the Museum Künstler- ∑ lorsch.de Road map C5. * 16,000. crypt. The parts which remain
Landgraves von Hessen- southwest of the kolonie, an exhibition n Marktplatz 1 (06061-979 41 10). to this day include the main
Darmstadt. The Re naissance- Stadtkirche stands the space for the colony’s This small town is mainly known _ Bienenmarkt (Whitsun), Christmas nave, the north aisle with an
Baroque complex is centred Altes Pädagog, built in artists, as well as for the Kloster, a Benedictine Market (Dec). apse and the crypt which holds
around three courtyards. The 1629 as an educational the famous abbey first founded in 764 by precious religious relics.
earlier medieval castle, which establishment. Statue on the door Hochzeitsturm Chrodegang of Metz and one of Michelstadt, set among the
stood on the same site, burned To the north of the of the Behrens-Haus (wedding tower), the most important cultural and hills of the Odenwald, is first Environs
down in 1546. The present Schloss is the in Darmstadt erected in 1907–8 to intellectual centres in Europe in mentioned in historical records In Fürstenau, situated about
palace was created in stages, Hessisches Landes- celebrate the Grand the Carolingian era. It reached in 741. From the 13th century 1 km (0.6 mile) northwest of
with its earliest parts, the museum (regional museum of Duke’s wedding. The Behrens- the peak of its power in the the town belonged to the von Michelstadt, is a beautiful
Renaissance wings, dating from Hesse), erected in 1892–1905. Haus, designed by the Hamburg 8th–13th centuries, before being Erbach family (the future complex including the Altschloß
1567–97. The Glockenbau has a Its collection includes artifacts architect Peter Behrens, is sober sold to the Archbishop of Mainz Counts von Erbach). (old palace), remodelled from a
35-bell carillon which can be dating from the Ro man era to in contrast. The Orthodox church in 1232. The Benedictines were The town has preserved medieval castle, the Neuschloß
heard every half hour; it was the 20th century. The museum of St Mary Magdalene was built forced to leave, and in their many historic half-timbered (new palace), dating from 1810,
completed in 1663. Further also has an excellent natural in 1897–9 by the Russian place the Cistercians arrived. houses and presents a typical the park and its garden pavilions.
modi fications, planned in 1715– history section, whose exhibits architect Leonti Nikolayevich The monastery was dissolved image of medieval Germany. Erbach, 3 km (2 miles) south of
30, were never completed. Two include the impressive skeleton Benois, in honour of Alix, wife of during the Reformation, and The 16th-century Kellerei is Michelstadt, became famous as a
Baroque wings, the so-called of a mammoth as well as birds the last tsar of Russia and sister in 1621 the Spanish Army built around the remains of an centre for the art of ivory carving.
Neubau or Neuschloß (new of every species native to of Ernst Ludwig. destroyed and plundered the earlier castle dating from 970. It In No. 1 Otto-Glenz-Straße is the
castle), surround older buildings southern Hesse. Set in the park greater part of the complex. now houses a regional museum. Deutsches Elfenbein museum
E Schloßmuseum Fragments of the 13th- The sight most popular with (German ivory museum), which
Residenzschloß, Marktplatz 15. century nave, the towers and photographers is the half- is devoted to this craft. Other
Tel (06151) 240 35. Open 10am–5pm the gate-house, dating from timbered Rathaus (town hall), attractions in this town include
Fri–Sun. 8 obligatory. around 790, are all that has dating from 1484, with its three the Baroque Schloß
∑ schlossmuseum-darmstadt.de survived. The original towers and an open (castle) and its interesting
E Hessisches Landesmuseum 8th-century church, a basilica ground-floor gallery. art collection.
Friedensplatz 1. Tel (06151) 16 57 000. without transept, burned down
Open 10am–6pm Tue, Thu & Fri, in 1090 and was rebuilt in the
10am–8pm Wed, 11am–5pm Sat 12th cen tury. The original crypt
& Sun. & is the burial place of Ludwig II
the German, the first ruler of the
E Museum Künstlerkolonie
Olbrichweg 15/Mathildenhöhe. Eastern Franks. The Torhalle
Tel (06151) 13 33 85. (gate-house) is one of the most
Open 11am–6pm Tue–Sun. & important architectural remains
∑ mathildenhoehe.eu of the Carolingian period, and it
was listed as a UNESCO World
E Großherzoglich-Hessische Heritage site in 1991. Its lower
Porzellan sammlung section is made up of three
Schloßgartenstraße 10. Tel (06151) 71 arcades, modelled on Roman
32 33. Open Apr–Oct: 10am–5pm triumphal arches. The first-floor
Fri–Sun.
Hochzeitsturm and Orthodox Church in Mathildenhöhe, Darmstadt quarters were probably used as The Carolingian Einhardsbasilika in Michelstadt-Steinbach
For hotels and restaurants in this area see pp499–500 and pp525–6


384-385_EW_Germany.indd 384 09/10/17 2:31 pm 384-385_EW_Germany.indd 385 09/10/17 2:31 pm
Eyewitness Travel LAYERS PRINTED:
Catalogue template “UK” LAYER
(Source v2.2)
Date 15th January 2013
Size 125mm x 217mm

HESSE  385


a guest room or court- Nearby stands the late-Gothic,
room, and were from 15th-century Pfarrkirche St
the 14th century used Michael (parish church of St
as a chapel. Remains of Michael). Inside are some
the original wall paint- interesting epitaphs including
ings are still visible here. the double tombstone of
The façade is decorated Philipp I and Georg I, dating
with red and white from the late 15th century. A
stone mosaics inspired true rarity is the 18th-century
by Franco-Merovingian synagogue, which escaped
art. The vertical divides, being burned by the National
created by pilasters and Socialists in 1938.
entablature, are copies In the Steinbach district of
of ancient designs – an Michelstadt stands the
archi tectural feature Einhardsbasilika, a church
typical of the Carolingian dating from around 821. The
Renaissance. The first church built on this site,
The Carolingian Torhalle (gate-house) of the Kloster chapel’s high roof and at the initiative of Einhard, a
(abbey) in Lorsch vaults date from the courtier of Charlemagne, was
14th century. a small, pillared and vaulted
i Lorsch basilica with a short choir
ending with a rounded apse.
Road map C5. * 10,700. o Michelstadt
n Marktplatz 1 (06251-175 26 0). Under the eastern section is a
∑ lorsch.de Road map C5. * 16,000. crypt. The parts which remain
n Marktplatz 1 (06061-979 41 10). to this day include the main
This small town is mainly known _ Bienenmarkt (Whitsun), Christmas nave, the north aisle with an
for the Kloster, a Benedictine Market (Dec). apse and the crypt which holds
abbey first founded in 764 by precious religious relics.
Chrodegang of Metz and one of Michelstadt, set among the
the most important cultural and hills of the Odenwald, is first Environs
intellectual centres in Europe in mentioned in historical records In Fürstenau, situated about
the Carolingian era. It reached in 741. From the 13th century 1 km (0.6 mile) northwest of
the peak of its power in the the town belonged to the von Michelstadt, is a beautiful
8th–13th centuries, before being Erbach family (the future complex including the Altschloß
sold to the Archbishop of Mainz Counts von Erbach). (old palace), remodelled from a
in 1232. The Benedictines were The town has preserved medieval castle, the Neuschloß
forced to leave, and in their many historic half-timbered (new palace), dating from 1810,
place the Cistercians arrived. houses and presents a typical the park and its garden pavilions.
The monastery was dissolved image of medieval Germany. Erbach, 3 km (2 miles) south of
during the Reformation, and The 16th-century Kellerei is Michelstadt, became famous as a
in 1621 the Spanish Army built around the remains of an centre for the art of ivory carving.
destroyed and plundered the earlier castle dating from 970. It In No. 1 Otto-Glenz-Straße is the
greater part of the complex. now houses a regional museum. Deutsches Elfenbein museum
Fragments of the 13th- The sight most popular with (German ivory museum), which
century nave, the towers and photographers is the half- is devoted to this craft. Other
the gate-house, dating from timbered Rathaus (town hall), attractions in this town include
around 790, are all that has dating from 1484, with its three the Baroque Schloß
survived. The original towers and an open (castle) and its interesting
8th-century church, a basilica ground-floor gallery. art collection.
without transept, burned down
in 1090 and was rebuilt in the
12th cen tury. The original crypt
is the burial place of Ludwig II
the German, the first ruler of the
Eastern Franks. The Torhalle
(gate-house) is one of the most
important architectural remains
of the Carolingian period, and it
was listed as a UNESCO World
Heritage site in 1991. Its lower
section is made up of three
arcades, modelled on Roman
triumphal arches. The first-floor
quarters were probably used as The Carolingian Einhardsbasilika in Michelstadt-Steinbach




384-385_EW_Germany.indd 385 09/10/17 2:31 pm

WESTERN GERM AN Y  387

NORTH RHINE–

WESTPHALIA


Originally consisting of two distinct provinces with somewhat
diverging histories, the region of North Rhine-Westphalia today
has its own strong identity. It encompasses the vast valley of the
Ruhr river, rich in mineral deposits, where over the past 200 years
huge conurbations have developed, comprising dozens of industrial cities
that are gradually merging into one another.

As a province, the North Rhineland, situated thanks to great investment, its industrial
along the lower Rhine valley, goes back to cities have transformed themselves into
Roman times. In the Middle Ages most of attractive cultural centres.
this area was ruled by the Bishops of The history of towns such as Bonn,
Cologne (Köln). The North Rhineland cities Aachen, Cologne (Köln) and Xanten
grew and prospered thanks to their trade goes back to Roman times, and they
links, and in the 19th century they became have preserved much of their ancient
major centres of mining and heavy industry. heritage to this day. Evidence of
Westphalia forms the eastern part of the Romanesque art, which flourished
land. Once a Saxon territory, its history in the Rhineland, is today apparent in
was often intertwined with that of the numerous impressive abbeys dotted
Rhineland. Only its western end has been throughout the region and in the
heavily industrialized. churches of Cologne, which also boasts
North Rhine-Westphalia is not the largest the colossal Gothic Dom.
of the German regions, but with a popu- Much of North Rhine-Westphalia is
lation of nearly 18 million it is the most rural, and the region offers thousands of
heavily populated one. It is often thought kilometres of tracks for walking in the
that the region, and in particular the heavily Teutoburg Forest and in the Northern Eifel
industrialized Ruhr valley, has little to offer mountains, as well as splendid conditions
to its visitors, but this is a mistaken belief. for watersports and fishing in the
Its splendid past has left many priceless Sauerland. It also has surprisingly good ski
historic monuments and more recently, slopes, such as in the Rothaar Mountains.




















The spa town of Aachen’s main shopping street is Schmiedstraße
The historic town of Freudenberg, in the Siegerland region, is filled with half-timbered houses



386-387_EW_Germany.indd 386 09/10/17 12:50 pm 386-387_EW_Germany.indd 387 09/10/17 12:50 pm

WESTERN GERM AN Y  387

NORTH RHINE–

WESTPHALIA


Originally consisting of two distinct provinces with somewhat
diverging histories, the region of North Rhine-Westphalia today
has its own strong identity. It encompasses the vast valley of the
Ruhr river, rich in mineral deposits, where over the past 200 years
huge conurbations have developed, comprising dozens of industrial cities
that are gradually merging into one another.

As a province, the North Rhineland, situated thanks to great investment, its industrial
along the lower Rhine valley, goes back to cities have transformed themselves into
Roman times. In the Middle Ages most of attractive cultural centres.
this area was ruled by the Bishops of The history of towns such as Bonn,
Cologne (Köln). The North Rhineland cities Aachen, Cologne (Köln) and Xanten
grew and prospered thanks to their trade goes back to Roman times, and they
links, and in the 19th century they became have preserved much of their ancient
major centres of mining and heavy industry. heritage to this day. Evidence of
Westphalia forms the eastern part of the Romanesque art, which flourished
land. Once a Saxon territory, its history in the Rhineland, is today apparent in
was often intertwined with that of the numerous impressive abbeys dotted
Rhineland. Only its western end has been throughout the region and in the
heavily industrialized. churches of Cologne, which also boasts
North Rhine-Westphalia is not the largest the colossal Gothic Dom.
of the German regions, but with a popu- Much of North Rhine-Westphalia is
lation of nearly 18 million it is the most rural, and the region offers thousands of
heavily populated one. It is often thought kilometres of tracks for walking in the
that the region, and in particular the heavily Teutoburg Forest and in the Northern Eifel
industrialized Ruhr valley, has little to offer mountains, as well as splendid conditions
to its visitors, but this is a mistaken belief. for watersports and fishing in the
Its splendid past has left many priceless Sauerland. It also has surprisingly good ski
historic monuments and more recently, slopes, such as in the Rothaar Mountains.




















The spa town of Aachen’s main shopping street is Schmiedstraße
The historic town of Freudenberg, in the Siegerland region, is filled with half-timbered houses



386-387_EW_Germany.indd 387 09/10/17 12:50 pm

388  WESTERN GERM AN Y NOR TH RHINE-WESTPHALIA  389

Exploring North Rhine-Westphalia

Despite being heavily industrialized, the land of North Rhine- SulingenSulingen
Westphalia has many attractions for visitors. At least two days should
be set aside to admire the historic treasures in Cologne, while those
who prefer museums – or shopping – might allocate more time for OsnabrückOsnabrück Weser
Weser
Mittellandkanal
Mittellandkanal
Düsseldorf. The towns of Bonn, Aachen and Münster should also IbbenbürenIbbenbüren MINDENMINDEN
feature on every visitor’s schedule. The best areas for rest and EnschedeEnschede RheineRheine LübbeckeLübbecke HanoverHanover
relaxation are the mountain ranges of the Eifel and the Teutoburg Porta WestfalicaPorta Westfalica
Forest, ideally suited for walking and cycling holidays. GronauGronau Vechte Bad OeynhausenBad Oeynhausen
EngerEnger HerfordHerford
Vechte
GrevenGreven Bad SalzuflenBad Salzuflen
Dinkel Dinkel BIELEFELDBIELEFELD LEMGOLEMGO
Berkel
Berkel
ArnhemArnhem
HavixbeckHavixbeck
Ems
CoesfeldCoesfeld MÜNSTERMÜNSTER Ems DetmoldDetmold
StukenbrockStukenbrock HermannsdenkmalHermannsdenkmal
BorkenBorken TEUTOBURGER WALD
EmmerichEmmerich BocholtBocholt DülmenDülmen WiedenbrückWiedenbrück
M Ü N S T E R - L A N D D Weser Weser
M Ü N S T E R - L A N
KLEVEKLEVE LüdinghausenLüdinghausen AhlenAhlen
TEUTOBURGER WALD
RaesfeldRaesfeld HalternHaltern BeckumBeckum HÖXTERHÖXTER
KalkarKalkar Rhein NORDRHEIN-NORDRHEIN- PADERBORNPADERBORN
Lippe
Lippe
Rhein
GochGoch DorstenDorsten HammHamm LippstadtLippstadt BadBad
DriburgDriburg
Marl
XANTENXANTEN Marl WESTF ALENWESTF ALEN
RecklinghausenRecklinghausen WaltropWaltrop
Niers
Niers
Burg Altena in the Sauerland DinslakenDinslaken WerlWerl SOESTSOEST Alme
Alme
Geldern ESSENESSEN DORTMUNDDORTMUND
Geldern
OberhausenOberhausen WarburgWarburg
Diemel
BochumBochum MöhneseeMöhnesee Möhne Diemel
DUISBURGDUISBURG MendenMenden
Möhne
Sights at a Glance MulheimMulheim ArnsbergArnsberg WarsteinWarstein BrilonBrilon KasselKassel
1 Münster pp390–91 KrefeldKrefeld HAGENHAGEN IserlohnIserlohn MeschedeMeschede
3 Kleve WUPPERTALWUPPERTAL AltenaAltena BalveBalve
4 Xanten DÜSSELDORFDÜSSELDORF MettmannMettmann BreckerfeldBreckerfeld S A U E R L A N D
5 Dortmund NEUSSNEUSS RemscheidRemscheid LüdenscheidLüdenscheid S A U E R L A N D WinterbergWinterberg
Rothaargebirge
6 Essen MönchengladbachMönchengladbach Wupper
7 Duisburg ErkelenzErkelenz Rhein SOLINGENSOLINGEN Rothaargebirge
Wupper
Rhein
8 Wuppertal DORMAGENDORMAGEN ALTENBERGALTENBERG LennestadtLennestadt
9 Düsseldorf pp396–7 HeinsbergHeinsberg BedburgBedburg LeverkusenLeverkusen GummersbachGummersbach BadBad
BerleburgBerleburg
0 Neuss MaastrichtMaastricht PulheimPulheim KreuztalKreuztal
q Dormagen COLOGNECOLOGNE BadBad
(KÖLN)(KÖLN)
w Solingen JülichJülich Rur KerpenKerpen FreudenbergFreudenberg LaaspheLaasphe
Rur
e Altenberg SIEGENSIEGEN
r Cologne (Köln) pp402–9 DürenDüren BRÜHLBRÜHL TroisdorfTroisdorf SiegburgSiegburg WindeckWindeck
Sieg
Sieg
t Aachen pp398–401 AACHENAACHEN KornelimünsterKornelimünster
y Northern Eifel BONNBONN
u Brühl LiègeLiège KÖNIGSWINTERKÖNIGSWINTER
i Bonn pp412–13 EuskirchenEuskirchen Bad HonnefBad Honnef KoblenzKoblenz WetzlarWetzlar Johanniskirche on the west side of the
Rur
o Königswinter Rur N O R T H E R N E I F E MechernichMechernich Münster, Essen
p Siegen MonschauMonschau Bad Bad
a Hagen SchleidenSchleiden Münstereifelünstereifel
M
N O R T H E R N E I F E L L
s Sauerland
d Soest 0 kilometres 20 BlankenheimBlankenheim Ahr Ahr Key
f Paderborn 0 miles 20
g Höxter Motorway
h Lemgo Major road
j Teutoburger Wald Getting Around Minor road
(Teutoburg Forest) There are international airports at Düsseldorf, Cologne– Under construction
k Bielefeld Bonn (Konrad-Adenauer-Flughafen), Niederrhein-Weeze Main railway
l Minden and at Münster–Osnabrück. North Rhine-Westphalia has Minor railway
the highest density of motorways in Germany, making it
Tours easy to travel between cities, and providing links with International border
2 Münsterland other German regions, Belgium and the Netherlands. Regional border Roman amphitheatre in the Archäologischer Park in Xanten
For additional map symbols see back flap
388-389_EW_Germany.indd 388 09/10/17 2:32 pm 388-389_EW_Germany.indd 389 09/10/17 2:32 pm

NOR TH RHINE-WESTPHALIA  389





Sulingen
Osnabrück
Mittellandkanal Weser
Ibbenbüren MINDEN
Rheine Lübbecke Hanover
Enschede Porta Westfalica
Gronau Vechte Bad Oeynhausen
Enger Herford
Greven Bad Salzuflen
Dinkel BIELEFELD LEMGO
Berkel
Arnhem
Havixbeck
Coesfeld MÜNSTER Ems Detmold
Stukenbrock Hermannsdenkmal
Borken TEUTOBURGER WALD
Emmerich Bocholt Dülmen Wiedenbrück
M Ü N S T E R - L A N D Weser
KLEVE Lüdinghausen Ahlen
Raesfeld Haltern Beckum HÖXTER
Kalkar Rhein NORDRHEIN- PADERBORN
Lippe
Goch Dorsten Hamm Lippstadt Bad
Driburg
XANTEN Marl WESTF ALEN
Recklinghausen
Dinslaken Waltrop Werl SOEST
Niers
Geldern ESSEN DORTMUND Alme
Oberhausen Warburg
Bochum Möhnesee Möhne Diemel
DUISBURG Menden
Mulheim Arnsberg Warstein Kassel
Krefeld HAGEN Iserlohn Balve Meschede Brilon
DÜSSELDORF Mettmann WUPPERTAL Altena
Breckerfeld S A U E R L A N D
NEUSS Remscheid Winterberg
Mönchengladbach Wupper Lüdenscheid
SOLINGEN Rothaargebirge
Erkelenz
Rhein
DORMAGEN ALTENBERG Lennestadt
Heinsberg Bad
Bedburg Leverkusen Gummersbach Berleburg
Maastricht Pulheim Kreuztal
COLOGNE
(KÖLN) Bad
Jülich Kerpen Laasphe
Freudenberg
SIEGEN
Rur
Sieg
Düren BRÜHL Troisdorf Siegburg Windeck
AACHEN
Kornelimünster
BONN
Liège
KÖNIGSWINTER Johanniskirche on the west side of the
Euskirchen Bad Honnef Koblenz Wetzlar Münster, Essen
Rur N O R T H E R N E I F E L
Monschau Mechernich
Bad
Schleiden Münstereifel
Blankenheim Ahr Key
Motorway
Major road
Minor road
Under construction
Main railway
Minor railway
International border
Regional border Roman amphitheatre in the Archäologischer Park in Xanten
388-389_EW_Germany.indd 389 09/10/17 2:32 pm

390  WESTERN GERM AN Y NOR TH RHINE-WESTPHALIA  391

1 Münster 1225–65 and repres enting a VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
transitional style between late
Münster and its surroundings were already inhabited in Romanesque and early-Gothic. Practical Information
Roman times, but its history proper started in the 9th century, The vast basilica has two Road map: B3. * 280,000.
n Heinrich-Brüning-Straße 9
with the establishment of a bishopric. Town status was transepts, two choirs and two (0251-492 27 10). ( Wed & Sat.
granted in 1137, and in the 13th century Münster joined massive towers. The northern _ Rosenmontagsfestumzug
cloister was added in the
the Hanseatic League. In 1648 the Westphalian Peace Treaty 14th century, and in the 16th– (Carnival Mon), Jahrmarkt Send
was signed here, ending the Thirty Years’ War. Münster’s 17th centuries the passage that (Mar, Jun & Oct), Euro-City-Fest
(May), Pfälzer Weinfest & Weinfest
Westfälische Wilhelms-Universität (1773) is one of Germany’s runs around the presbytery im Schloßgarten (Aug), Barockfest
largest universities. World War II saw 90 per cent of the old acquired a ring of chapels. In The Baroque-Classical Schloß, residence of Münster’s prince-bishops (Sep). ∑ tourismus.muenster.de
town laid to ruins, but most of it has now been rebuilt. the vestibule stands a group Transport
of 13th-century sculptures. edifice was built around 1340– E Museum für Lackkunst £ Bahnhofstraße k Münster-
Espe cially worth seeing are 46, on the site of a Romanesque Windthorststraße 26. Tel (0251) 41 85 10. Osnabrück.
P Erbdrostenhof the two altars by Gerhard Benedictine church. Inside Open noon–8pm Tue, noon–6pm
Salzstraße 38. Gröninger (1st half of the 17th are 16th-century votive Wed–Sun & public holidays. &
Closed to the public. century), the early 16th-century paintings by Lud ger and (except free Tue). = ∑ museum- T Mühlenhof
This beautiful mansion was stained-glass windows brought Hermann tom Ring. fuer-lackkunst.de Theo-Breider-Weg 1. Tel (0251) 98 12
skilfully positioned diagonally here from Marienfeld and This unique museum, set up 00. Open Mar–Oct: 10am–6pm daily;
across a corner site. Designed monuments of many bishops. + Residenzschloß by BASF Coatings and devoted Nov–Feb: 11am–5:30pm Sat & Sun.
by Johann Conrad Schlaun, it The cathedral’s best-known Schloßplatz 2. to lacquer ware, has a good &
was built in 1753–7, and despite treasure is the astronomical This beautiful Baroque collec tion with beautiful items This interesting open-air museum
destruction in World War II it still clock (1540), with paintings by residence was built in 1767–87, from different eras and from is situated on the banks of the
enchants with its “wavy”, late- Ludger tom Ring the Elder by Prince-Bishop Maximilian across Europe, as well as Iran, Aasee, Mün ster’s lake and
Baroque façade. and sculptures by Johann Friedrich. It was designed India, China and Japan. recreation area. There are a
Brabender. At noon, figures by Johann Conrad Schlaun, number of rural dwellings with
P Rathaus show the Magi paying tribute a local master of Bar oque authentic furnishings and two
Prinzipalmarkt. Friedenssaal: Tel (0251) to the infant Jesus to the architecture. Maximilian mills (17th and 18th centuries).
492 27 24. Open 10am–5pm Tue– Houses on Prinzipalmarkt, recon structed sounds of the carillon. Friedrich started the redevelop-
Fri, 10am–4pm Sat & Sun. Closed 25 in the medieval style ment of Münster in the + Drostenhof
Dec. & E LWL Museum für Kunst northern Baroque style. On his Wolbeck, Am Steintor 5.
The imposing Gothic town hall, on 15 May 1648 part of the und Kultur initiative the town acquired a Southeast of the town, in
the pride of Münster, was Westphalian Treaty was signed, Domplatz 10. Tel (0251) 590 701. large park, part of which was Wolbeck, is an ori ginal Renaiss-
almost completely destroyed ending the Thirty Years’ War. Open 10am–6pm Tue–Sun. & trans formed into a botanical ance mansion from the mid-16th
during World War II. After its Located in a sandstone garden in 1803. After World century. Its exquisite gate-house
splendid reconstruction, it is R Lambertikirche building with increased War II, the castle was rebuilt leads into the court yard of the
again a major draw for visitors. Prinzipalmarkt. exhibition space and facilities, and became the head quarters Windmill in the open-air museum mansion, which has original
The only parts that had escaped St Lamberti is an excellent the Westphalian regional of Münster university. in Mühlenhof fireplaces and ceiling paintings.
destruction were the furnishings example of the hall-churches museum specializes mainly in
of the main council chamber, characteristic of Westphalia. It Gothic art, with a
which have been returned to was built in 1375–1450, but the large collection of Münster City Centre
their rightful place after the openwork finial of the tower sculptures and 1 Erbdrostenhof
rebuilding work. It was here that dates from 1887. The cages altars rescued in 2 Rathaus
hanging on the tower held World War II. Its 3 Lambertikirche SPIEKERHOF VOSSGASSE BÜLT
ALTER
the bodies of the leading most noteworthy TIMPEN Überwasser- FISCHMARKT
kirche
Anabaptists, following the exhibits include the 4 Dom St Paulus Residenzschloss MARKT Krameramtshaus
ROGGEN-
Dom
crushing of their commune works by Heinrich 5 LWL Museum für St Paulus Lamberti-
kirche
in 1536. It is also worth and Johann Kunst und Kultur DOMPLATZ SALZSTRASSE MAURITZSTR.
taking a look at the relief Brabender, Conrad 6 Überwasserkirche MICHAELISPLATZ ALTER STEINWEG
depicting the Tree of Jesse, von Soest and the 7 Museum für Lackkunst LWL Museum PRINZIPALMARKT Rathaus E I S EN B A H N S T R .
fürKunst
above the southwest Tom Ring family. Figure of a saint K R U M M E R T I M P E N und Kultur KLEMENS- Erbdrostenhof
entrance, and the figures of Contemporary art in Dom St Paulus B I S P I N G H O F ROTHENBURG STRASSE
the apostles (around 1600) is represented by, Kunstmuseum Clemenskirche
by Johann Koess. among others, August AEGIDIIKIR CH- Pablo Picasso LOERSTR A S S E 20km (12 miles)
Flughafen
PLATZ
Macke’s work. KLOSTERSTRASSE
P Dom St Paulus AEGIDIISTRASSE BREITE GASSE LUDGERISTRASSE WOLBECK
Domkammer: Domplatz. Tel R Überwasserkirche A M S T A D T G R A B E N GRÜNE GASSE K Ö N I G S S T R A S S E Museum VON-VINCKE-STRASSE
(0251) 448 93. Open 6:30am– Überwasserkirchplatz. für Lackkunst
7pm Mon–Sat, 6:30am–7:30pm The Liebfrauenkirche (Church S C H Ü T Z E N S T R A S S E VERSPOEL B A H N H OF S TR .
Sun and hols. & of Our Lady) is popularly Mühlenhof WINDTHORSTSTRASSE Haupt-
The most precious named Überwasserkirche bahnhof
historic relic in Münster is (church above the water), after KANONENGRABEN SCHORLEMERSTRASSE ENGELSTRASSE
The beautifully restored façade of the undeniably its massive St the district on the banks of 0 metres 300 LUDGERIPLATZ
late-Gothic Rathaus Paulus’ cathedral, built in the tiny Aa river. This Gothic 0 yards 300
For hotels and restaurants in this area see pp500–501 and pp526–9 For map symbols see back flap
390-391_EW_Germany.indd 390 09/10/17 12:50 pm 390-391_EW_Germany.indd 391 09/10/17 12:50 pm

NOR TH RHINE-WESTPHALIA  391


VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
Practical Information
Road map: B3. * 280,000.
n Heinrich-Brüning-Straße 9
(0251-492 27 10). ( Wed & Sat.
_ Rosenmontagsfestumzug
(Carnival Mon), Jahrmarkt Send
(Mar, Jun & Oct), Euro-City-Fest
(May), Pfälzer Weinfest & Weinfest
im Schloßgarten (Aug), Barockfest
The Baroque-Classical Schloß, residence of Münster’s prince-bishops (Sep). ∑ tourismus.muenster.de
Transport
edifice was built around 1340– E Museum für Lackkunst £ Bahnhofstraße k Münster-
46, on the site of a Romanesque Windthorststraße 26. Tel (0251) 41 85 10. Osnabrück.
Benedictine church. Inside Open noon–8pm Tue, noon–6pm
are 16th-century votive Wed–Sun & public holidays. &
paintings by Lud ger and (except free Tue). = ∑ museum- T Mühlenhof
Hermann tom Ring. fuer-lackkunst.de Theo-Breider-Weg 1. Tel (0251) 98 12
This unique museum, set up 00. Open Mar–Oct: 10am–6pm daily;
+ Residenzschloß by BASF Coatings and devoted Nov–Feb: 11am–5:30pm Sat & Sun.
Schloßplatz 2. to lacquer ware, has a good &
This beautiful Baroque collec tion with beautiful items This interesting open-air museum
residence was built in 1767–87, from different eras and from is situated on the banks of the
by Prince-Bishop Maximilian across Europe, as well as Iran, Aasee, Mün ster’s lake and
Friedrich. It was designed India, China and Japan. recreation area. There are a
by Johann Conrad Schlaun, number of rural dwellings with
a local master of Bar oque authentic furnishings and two
architecture. Maximilian mills (17th and 18th centuries).
Friedrich started the redevelop-
ment of Münster in the + Drostenhof
northern Baroque style. On his Wolbeck, Am Steintor 5.
initiative the town acquired a Southeast of the town, in
large park, part of which was Wolbeck, is an ori ginal Renaiss-
trans formed into a botanical ance mansion from the mid-16th
garden in 1803. After World century. Its exquisite gate-house
War II, the castle was rebuilt leads into the court yard of the
and became the head quarters Windmill in the open-air museum mansion, which has original
of Münster university. in Mühlenhof fireplaces and ceiling paintings.

Münster City Centre
1 Erbdrostenhof
2 Rathaus VOSSGASSE BÜLT
3 Lambertikirche SPIEKERHOF
ALTER
4 Dom St Paulus TIMPEN Überwasser- MARKT FISCHMARKT Krameramtshaus
kirche
5 LWL Museum für Residenzschloss Dom Lamberti-
ROGGEN-
Kunst und Kultur St Paulus kirche MAURITZSTR.
6 Überwasserkirche DOMPLATZ MICHAELISPLATZ SALZSTRASSE ALTER STEINWEG
K R U M M E R T I M P E N B I S P I N G H O F und Kultur ROTHENBURG KLEMENS- Clemenskirche
7 Museum für Lackkunst LWL Museum PRINZIPALMARKT Rathaus E I S EN B A H N S T R .
fürKunst
Erbdrostenhof
STRASSE
Kunstmuseum
Flughafen
AEGIDIISTRASSE BREITE GASSE Pablo Picasso LOERSTR A S S E KLOSTERSTRASSE VON-VINCKE-STRASSE 20km (12 miles)
LUDGERISTRASSE
AEGIDIIKIR CH-
PLATZ
WOLBECK
Museum
für Lackkunst
GRÜNE GASSE
VERSPOEL B A H N H OF S TR .
K Ö N I G S S T R A S S E
Mühlenhof WINDTHORSTSTRASSE bahnhof
A M S T A D T G R A B E N
S C H Ü T Z E N S T R A S S E
Haupt-
SCHORLEMERSTRASSE ENGELSTRASSE
KANONENGRABEN
0 metres 300 LUDGERIPLATZ
0 yards 300
For map symbols see back flap
390-391_EW_Germany.indd 391 09/10/17 12:50 pm

392  WESTERN GERM AN Y NOR TH RHINE-WESTPHALIA  393

3 Kleve (Cleves) + Schwanenburg
2 Münsterland Road map A3. * 50,000. £ @ Am Schloßberg. Tel (02821) 22 884.
n Opschlag 11–13 (02821-89 50 90). Open Apr–Oct: 11am–5pm daily;
The region stretching in a narrow strip to the north Nov–Mar: 11am–5pm Sat & Sun. &
of Münster is the land of horses and Wasserburgen The town of Kleve is named E Museum Kurhaus Kleve –
(moated castles). The castles were surrounded by after the high cliff, on which Ewald Mataré-Sammlung
a castle was built in the 10th
moats or built on islands to give their owners century. Around it, a settlement Tiergartenstraße 41. Tel (02821) 750
10. Open 11am–5pm Tue–Sun. &
protection in the surrounding lowlands. Almost developed, which became a
50 Wasserburgen have survived, some converted town in 1242. It was ruled by the Environs
into residences. Not all are open to visitors as most dukes of Kleve, whose ambitions The suspension bridge across
remain to this day in the hands of the family of the reached their peak in 1539, the Rhine – at 1,228 m (4,028 ft)
original owners. The best way to tour the flat when Anne of Cleves married the longest such structure in The Hafentempel in the Archäolo gischer
the English King Henry VIII.
Germany – connects Kleve
Park in Xanten
Münsterland region is by car or bicycle.
2 Vischering The magnificent Burg During World War II Kleve lost with Emmerich. Worth a visit
Vischering is one of the oldest and most of its historic buildings. here is the Martinskirche, with Colonia Ulpia Traiana near the
5 Schloß Raesfeld best-preserved castles in Westphalia. One that has survived is the its exquisite, late-10th-century local garrison. The present
The beautiful Founded in 1270, it was extended in imposing Gothic church of the shrine of St Willibrod. town, however, did not rise out
17th-century castle the 16th and 17th centuries. Assumption of the Virgin Mary, Twelve km (7 miles) to the of the ruins of the Roman town.
has some original St Mariä Himmelfahrt (1341– southeast of Kleve lies the It was established nearby,
14th-century 1 Havixbeck Two interesting castles are 1426). It has remains of the high charming town of Kalkar around the memorial church
elements. Particularly near this small town: the Renais sance altar, dating from 1510–13, with which, in around 1500, was built on top of the grave of the
worth seeing is the Haus Havixbeck and the Rena issance- reliefs by Henrik Douvermann home to the famous Kalkar martyr St Viktor. It was named
castle chapel with its Baroque Burg Hülshoff, birth place of and and Jakob Dericks, as well as School specializing in ad sanctos (by the saints), later
Baroque altar. museum to the 19th -century writer beautiful monuments to the woodcarving. The church shortened to Xanten. A powerful
Annette von Droste-Hülshoff. von Kleve dukes. The former of St Nicolai has superb town in the Middle Ages,
Franciscan St Mariä Empfängnis, furnishings dating from Xanten also features in the
Enschede Osnabrũck a Gothic twin-nave hall-church the same period. Nibelung myth, and was said to
from the first half of the 15th Six km (4 miles) southeast is be the birthplace of Siegfried.
J century, includes noteworthy the moated castle of Moyland. The most important historic
J Coesfeld Münster features such as the Gothic stalls It houses a modern art collec- building in the town is the Dom
(1474) and a Baroque pulpit tion, which belongs to the St Viktor, which, according to
Nottuln (1698). The well-preserved ducal brothers von der Grinten and legend, was built on the graves
J castle of Schwanenburg was includes over 4,000 works by of St Viktor and members of the
remodelled twice: in Gothic the artist Joseph Beuys. Thebian Legion. The surviving
Broken style in the late 15th century, Gothic cathedral (1263–1517)
and in Baroque style in 1636–66. holds the shrine of St Victor
Testifying to former splendour 4 Xanten (1129), the early-Gothic stalls
are the parks established in the (1228) and, above all, the
Liidinghausen J mid-17th century by Johann Road map A3. * 21,500. £ @ exquisite Marienaltar by Henrik
Haltern J n Kurfürstenstraße. 9
Hamm Moritz von Nassau. The most (02801-772 200). Douvermann. There are also
beautiful of these is the Neuer Gothic sculptures by the pillars
Tiergarten (new animal garden). The history of of the main nave. Equally
Haus Koekkoek once belonged Xanten goes fascinating are the collegial
Dorsten
Marl to the Romantic painter Barend back to the buildings and the cloister
Key 3 Schloß Nordkirchen This vast Cornalis Koek koek, after whom Romans, holding the tombs of the canons.
moated castle, nicknamed the
it was named. The Museum
Also worth visiting is the
who
Suggested route “Westphalian Versailles”, was designed Kurhaus Kleve – Ewald Mataré- founded Klever Tor, a magnificent late
Scenic route by Gottfried Laurenz Pictorius and built Sammlung presents interesting the settle- 14th century double town-gate,
Hamm in 1703–34 for the Plettenberg family.
Other road and diverse art exhibitions. ment of northwest of the town. The
Archä ologischer Park, on the
River, lake 0 km 16 site of the Roman town, and
Viewpoint Tips for Drivers
0 miles 16 the Römer Museum display
Tour length: 97 km (58 miles). many reconstructed Roman
Stopping-off points: Every town public buildings including the
4 Schloß Lembeck has inns, and there is a hotel in impressive Hafentempel
In its present shape, the Schloß Lembeck. (harbour temple).
Lembeck castle complex Suggestions: All castles are open
is the result of Baroque to visitors Tuesday to Sunday, Y Archäologischer Park &
remodelling, under the with the exception of Nordkirchen, Römer Museum
direction of Johann which opens only on Sundays Wardter Straße. Tel (02801) 29 99.
Conrad Schlaun. Nearby and by reservation on other days. Open Mar–Oct: 9am–6pm daily;
is a nature reserve. Nov: 9am–5pm; Dec–Feb:
The Gothic Dom St Victor in Xanten 10am–4pm. &
For hotels and restaurants in this area see pp500–501 and pp526–9
392-393_EW_Germany.indd 392 09/10/17 2:33 pm 392-393_EW_Germany.indd 393 09/10/17 2:33 pm
Eyewitness Travel LAYERS PRINTED:
Catalogue template “UK” LAYER
(Source v2.3)
Date 6th February 2013
Size 125mm x 217mm

NOR TH RHINE-WESTPHALIA  393

3 Kleve (Cleves) + Schwanenburg
Am Schloßberg. Tel (02821) 22 884.
Road map A3. * 50,000. £ @ Open Apr–Oct: 11am–5pm daily;
n Opschlag 11–13 (02821-89 50 90).
Nov–Mar: 11am–5pm Sat & Sun. &
The town of Kleve is named E Museum Kurhaus Kleve –
after the high cliff, on which Ewald Mataré-Sammlung
a castle was built in the 10th Tiergartenstraße 41. Tel (02821) 750
century. Around it, a settlement 10. Open 11am–5pm Tue–Sun. &
developed, which became a
town in 1242. It was ruled by the Environs
dukes of Kleve, whose ambitions The suspension bridge across
reached their peak in 1539, the Rhine – at 1,228 m (4,028 ft)
when Anne of Cleves married the longest such structure in The Hafentempel in the Archäolo gischer
the English King Henry VIII. Germany – connects Kleve Park in Xanten
During World War II Kleve lost with Emmerich. Worth a visit
most of its historic buildings. here is the Martinskirche, with Colonia Ulpia Traiana near the
One that has survived is the its exquisite, late-10th-century local garrison. The present
imposing Gothic church of the shrine of St Willibrod. town, however, did not rise out
Assumption of the Virgin Mary, Twelve km (7 miles) to the of the ruins of the Roman town.
St Mariä Himmelfahrt (1341– southeast of Kleve lies the It was established nearby,
1426). It has remains of the high charming town of Kalkar around the memorial church
altar, dating from 1510–13, with which, in around 1500, was built on top of the grave of the
reliefs by Henrik Douvermann home to the famous Kalkar martyr St Viktor. It was named
and Jakob Dericks, as well as School specializing in ad sanctos (by the saints), later
beautiful monuments to the woodcarving. The church shortened to Xanten. A powerful
von Kleve dukes. The former of St Nicolai has superb town in the Middle Ages,
Franciscan St Mariä Empfängnis, furnishings dating from Xanten also features in the
a Gothic twin-nave hall-church the same period. Nibelung myth, and was said to
from the first half of the 15th Six km (4 miles) southeast is be the birthplace of Siegfried.
century, includes noteworthy the moated castle of Moyland. The most important historic
features such as the Gothic stalls It houses a modern art collec- building in the town is the Dom
(1474) and a Baroque pulpit tion, which belongs to the St Viktor, which, according to
(1698). The well-preserved ducal brothers von der Grinten and legend, was built on the graves
castle of Schwanenburg was includes over 4,000 works by of St Viktor and members of the
remodelled twice: in Gothic the artist Joseph Beuys. Thebian Legion. The surviving
style in the late 15th century, Gothic cathedral (1263–1517)
and in Baroque style in 1636–66. holds the shrine of St Victor
Testifying to former splendour 4 Xanten (1129), the early-Gothic stalls
are the parks established in the Road map A3. * 21,500. £ @ (1228) and, above all, the
mid-17th century by Johann n Kurfürstenstraße. 9 exquisite Marienaltar by Henrik
Moritz von Nassau. The most (02801-772 200). Douvermann. There are also
beautiful of these is the Neuer Gothic sculptures by the pillars
Tiergarten (new animal garden). The history of of the main nave. Equally
Haus Koekkoek once belonged Xanten goes fascinating are the collegial
to the Romantic painter Barend back to the buildings and the cloister
Cornalis Koek koek, after whom Romans, holding the tombs of the canons.
it was named. The Museum who Also worth visiting is the
Kurhaus Kleve – Ewald Mataré- founded Klever Tor, a magnificent late
Sammlung presents interesting the settle- 14th century double town-gate,
and diverse art exhibitions. ment of northwest of the town. The
Archä ologischer Park, on the
site of the Roman town, and
the Römer Museum display
many reconstructed Roman
public buildings including the
impressive Hafentempel
(harbour temple).
Y Archäologischer Park &
Römer Museum
Wardter Straße. Tel (02801) 29 99.
Open Mar–Oct: 9am–6pm daily;
Nov: 9am–5pm; Dec–Feb:
The Gothic Dom St Victor in Xanten 10am–4pm. &
For hotels and restaurants in this area see pp500–501 and pp526–9


392-393_EW_Germany.indd 393 09/10/17 2:33 pm

394  WESTERN GERM AN Y NOR TH RHINE–WESTPHALIA  395


growth and prominence to the
Krupp family, who, over several
generations from the mid-19th
century, created the powerful
German steel and arms industry.
The most important historic
building in the town is the
Münster, the former collegiate
church of the canonesses. This
unusual edifice consists of the
15th-century Gothic church of
St John, an 11th-century atrium
and the main church, which in
turn has a Romanesque The grand Villa Hügel, former home of the Krupp family in Essen
11th-century frontage and
a Gothic 14th-century main 10th-century imperial frontage. 20th-century sculptures, 8 Wuppertal
body. Without doubt the most The treasury holds many including works by famous Road map B4. * 380,000. £
The picturesque exterior of Palace Haus Rodenberg in Dortmund-Aplerbeck precious object held by the precious objects including a artists such as Salvador Dali, n Schloßbleiche 40 (0202-563 22
church is the Goldene Madonna, bronze crucifix from around 1060. Henry Moore, Max Ernst, Emil
5 Dortmund the Reinoldikirche and the a statue of the Virgin Mary with Nolde and Joseph Beuys. Also 70); Elberfeld, Informationszentrum
am Döppersberg (0202-194 33).
Marienkirche. The former, the Infant, made from sheet E Museum Folkwang worth visiting is the Museum
Road map: B4. * 600,000. £ @ ∑ wuppertal.de
n Max-von-der-Grün-Platz 5–6 dedicated to St Reinold, the gold, probably around 980. The Goethestraße 41. Tel (0201) 884 54 44. der Deutschen Binnenschiff-
(0231-189 990). _ Dortmund à la patron saint of Dortmund, has treasury has an outstanding Open 10am–6pm Tue, Wed, Sat & Sun, fahrt with its collection of Wuppertal, capital of the
carte (Jun), Dort mund aller art (Aug), an early-Gothic 13th-century collection of gold items from 10am–8pm Thu & Fri. Closed 1 Jan, barges and inland waterway Bergisches Land area, was
Hansetage (Nov). ∑ dortmund- main body and a late-Gothic, the Ottonian period. Easter, 1 May, 24 & 31 Dec. & vessels. In the 16th century, created in 1929 by combining
tourismus.de 15th-century presbytery. It Another important sight in Duisburg was the home of the six towns strung along a
includes many Gothic sculptures Essen is the Synagogue built Environs famous geographer and 20-km (12-mile) stretch of the
The large city of Dortmund is and furnishings. The second by Edmund Kömer in 1911–13. Visitors interested in techno logy cartographer Gerhard Mercator, Wupper river. The towns are
famous not only for its excellent one, the church of St Mary, The largest synagogue in should visit Bochum, which is whose collection of globes, joined by the Schwebebahn,
beer and highly developed is a 12th-century Roman- Germany, it managed to outlast also the seat of the excellent maps and charts can now be a monorail constructed in
industry, but also for its esque structure. It has a the Third Reich and is now a Ruhr-Universität. There are seen in the Kulture- und 1900. Carriages are suspen ded
more than 1,000 years of magnificent main altar, place of commemoration. two excellent museums: the Stadthistorisches Museum. from a single rail, which rests
history. In the Middle by Conrad von Soest Visitors who are interested Deutsches Bergbau-Museum on tall pillars.
Ages the town (1415–20) and a statue in 20th-century architecture devoted to mining, and the E Wilhelm-Lehmbruck-Museum The most interesting of the
grew rich through of the Madonna should see the church of St Eisenbahnmuseum (railway Friedrich-Wilhelm-Straße 40. Tel (0203) former towns is Elberfeld, with
trade and joined (around 1230). Inside the Engelbert in Fischerstraße, museum) in Dahlhausen. Both 283 26 30. Open noon–5pm Tue–Fri, a museum of clocks, and the
the Hanseatic impressive Dortmunder U designed by Dominikus Met- have world-class exhibits. 11am–5pm Sun. & Von der Heydt-Museum of
League; after a tower, the Museum am zendorf (1934–6), the town- 19th- and 20th-century German
period of decline it Ostwall has an excellent garden in Margarethenhöhe Environs art. The museum in the
flourished again in the modern art collection. built from 1909 to a design by 7 Duisburg CentrO in Oberhausen, 14 km Friedrich-Engels-Haus in
19th century. Georg Metzendorf, and the Road map B4. * 540,000. £ @ (9 miles) north of Duisburg, Barmen (Engelsstraße 10) is
A walk through the small E Museum für Kunst- opera house designed by the n Königstraße 86 (0203-285 440). is the largest shopping and worth seeing, and Neviges has
old town will take visitors und Kulturgeschichte Finnish architect, Alvar Aalto. ∑ ruhr-tourismus.de leisure complex in Europe. a Baroque pilgrimage church,
to the Museum Hansastraße 3. Tel (0231) 502 Essen has much to offer to Krefeld, 6 km (4 miles) south- with a much-visited miraculous
für Kunst-und 55 22. Open 10am–5pm modern art enthusiasts. The Duisburg, on the edge of the west of Duisburg, has been a picture of the Virgin Mary.
Kulturgeschichte Statue on Alter Markt, Tue–Wed & Sun, 10am–8pm Museum Folkwang boasts Ruhr region, underwent a period centre of silk fabric production
(museum for art and in Dortmund Thu, noon–5pm Sat. & an excellent collection of of rapid development in the 19th from the 17th century, and the E Von der Heydt-Museum
cultural history) with E Museum am Ostwall 20th-century paintings, mainly and 20th centuries. Once a small Deutsches Textilmuseum has Elberfeld, Turmhof 8. Tel (0202) 563
displays of interiors from various Leonie-Reygers-Terrasse 2. Tel (0231) German Expressionists. It also town, it became the world’s over 20,000 exhibits, ranging from 62 31. Open 11am–6pm Tue, Wed,
periods, including Secessionist 502 47 23. Open 11am–6pm Tue, Wed, has a graphic arts section. largest inland harbour thanks to anti quity to the present day. Fri–Sun, 11am–8pm Thu. & = 8
designs by Joseph Maria Sat & Sun; 11am–8pm Thu & Fri. The Grugapark is a large its location at the spot where the
Olbrich. A short distance from ∑ museumostwall.dortmund.de green area with botanical Ruhr flows into the Rhine.
here is the Petrikirche, a Gothic gardens, zoo and the Grugahalle, The small old town was almost
14th-century hall-church, where major concerts are held. totally destroyed in World War II,
whose greatest attraction is its 6 Essen To the south of the centre, on but the 15th-century Gothic
high altar (1521), the work of Road map B4. * 600,000. £ @ n the banks of the Baldeneysee, Salvatorkirche (church of St
Gilles, a master from Antwerp. Im Handelshof (am Hauptbahnhof 2) stands Villa Hügel, which Saviour) has been rebuilt. Some
Also noteworthy is the former (0201-194 33). _ Essen Original (Aug). belonged to the Krupp family of the town’s greatest attractions
Dominican Propsteikirche, ∑ essen.de until 1945. Today interesting art are its museums. The Wilhelm-
with its exquisite late-Gothic exhib itions are frequently hosted Lehmbruck-Museum focuses
main altar. A shortcut across It is hard to believe that this vast here. Further south, in Werden, on the work of the sculptor
the market square and along industrial metropolis has grown is the former Benedictine church Lehmbruck, who was born in
Ostenhellweg takes the from a monastery, established of St Ludger, consis ting of a 13th- Duisburg. The museum has
visitor to two more churches: in 852. The town owes its century body preceded by a an interesting collection of The unusual monorail, linking Wuppertal’s six constituent towns
For hotels and restaurants in this area see pp500–501 and pp526–9


394-395_EW_Germany.indd 394 09/10/17 2:33 pm 394-395_EW_Germany.indd 395 09/10/17 2:33 pm
Eyewitness Travel LAYERS PRINTED:
Catalogue template “UK” LAYER
(Source v2.2)
Date 15th January 2013
Size 125mm x 217mm

NOR TH RHINE–WESTPHALIA  395
















The grand Villa Hügel, former home of the Krupp family in Essen
10th-century imperial frontage. 20th-century sculptures, 8 Wuppertal
The treasury holds many including works by famous Road map B4. * 380,000. £
precious objects including a artists such as Salvador Dali, n Schloßbleiche 40 (0202-563 22
bronze crucifix from around 1060. Henry Moore, Max Ernst, Emil 70); Elberfeld, Informationszentrum
Nolde and Joseph Beuys. Also am Döppersberg (0202-194 33).
E Museum Folkwang worth visiting is the Museum ∑ wuppertal.de
Goethestraße 41. Tel (0201) 884 54 44. der Deutschen Binnenschiff-
Open 10am–6pm Tue, Wed, Sat & Sun, fahrt with its collection of Wuppertal, capital of the
10am–8pm Thu & Fri. Closed 1 Jan, barges and inland waterway Bergisches Land area, was
Easter, 1 May, 24 & 31 Dec. & vessels. In the 16th century, created in 1929 by combining
Duisburg was the home of the six towns strung along a
Environs famous geographer and 20-km (12-mile) stretch of the
Visitors interested in techno logy cartographer Gerhard Mercator, Wupper river. The towns are
should visit Bochum, which is whose collection of globes, joined by the Schwebebahn,
also the seat of the excellent maps and charts can now be a monorail constructed in
Ruhr-Universität. There are seen in the Kulture- und 1900. Carriages are suspen ded
two excellent museums: the Stadthistorisches Museum. from a single rail, which rests
Deutsches Bergbau-Museum on tall pillars.
devoted to mining, and the E Wilhelm-Lehmbruck-Museum The most interesting of the
Eisenbahnmuseum (railway Friedrich-Wilhelm-Straße 40. Tel (0203) former towns is Elberfeld, with
museum) in Dahlhausen. Both 283 26 30. Open noon–5pm Tue–Fri, a museum of clocks, and the
have world-class exhibits. 11am–5pm Sun. & Von der Heydt-Museum of
19th- and 20th-century German
Environs art. The museum in the
7 Duisburg CentrO in Oberhausen, 14 km Friedrich-Engels-Haus in
(9 miles) north of Duisburg, Barmen (Engelsstraße 10) is
Road map B4. * 540,000. £ @
n Königstraße 86 (0203-285 440). is the largest shopping and worth seeing, and Neviges has
∑ ruhr-tourismus.de leisure complex in Europe. a Baroque pilgrimage church,
Krefeld, 6 km (4 miles) south- with a much-visited miraculous
Duisburg, on the edge of the west of Duisburg, has been a picture of the Virgin Mary.
Ruhr region, underwent a period centre of silk fabric production
of rapid development in the 19th from the 17th century, and the E Von der Heydt-Museum
and 20th centuries. Once a small Deutsches Textilmuseum has Elberfeld, Turmhof 8. Tel (0202) 563
town, it became the world’s over 20,000 exhibits, ranging from 62 31. Open 11am–6pm Tue, Wed,
largest inland harbour thanks to anti quity to the present day. Fri–Sun, 11am–8pm Thu. & = 8
its location at the spot where the
Ruhr flows into the Rhine.
The small old town was almost
totally destroyed in World War II,
but the 15th-century Gothic
Salvatorkirche (church of St
Saviour) has been rebuilt. Some
of the town’s greatest attractions
are its museums. The Wilhelm-
Lehmbruck-Museum focuses
on the work of the sculptor
Lehmbruck, who was born in
Duisburg. The museum has
an interesting collection of The unusual monorail, linking Wuppertal’s six constituent towns




394-395_EW_Germany.indd 395 09/10/17 2:33 pm

396  WESTERN GERM AN Y NOR TH RHINE-WESTPHALIA  397

9 Düsseldorf paintings by Paul Klee, which VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
were acquired in 1960. There
Düsseldorf, the administrative capital of North Rhine- are also works by Wassily Practical Information
Westphalia, received its municipal rights in 1288. From the Kandinsky, Marcel Duchamp, Road map: B4. * 600,000.
late 14th century it was the capital of the Duchy of Berg, and Piet Mondrian and Pablo n Immermannstraße 65B
(am Hauptbahnhof), Marktstraße
from 1614 that of the Palatine. The town owes much to Duke Picasso. The gallery at (0211 1720 2844).
Grabbeplatz is known as K20,
Johann Wilhelm, who lived here in 1690–1716. One of the and a second building at ( _ Rosenmontagsumzug
most important industrial and cultural centres in the Rhine Ständehaüsstraße 1, where (Carnival Mon), Größte Kirmes am
Valley, this European metropolis has a renowned university, contemporary art is exhibited, Rhein (end Jul).
∑ duesseldorf.de
superb museums and theatres and, as the German capital of is known as K21. Temporary The late-Baroque Schloß Benrath
fashion, many excellent shops. exhibitions are held nearby, Transport
at Kunsthalle Düsseldorf, to a design by Johann Josef The celebrated German poet £ Konrad-Adenauer-Platz.
which is at No. 4 Grabbeplatz. Couven and Nicolas de Pigage. Heinrich Heine was born in k north of the centre.
E Museum Kunst Palast statue of the Elector Jan Wellem, The castle was rebuilt after Düsseldorf in 1797. This institute
Ehrenhof 4–5. Tel (0211) 899 02 00. built in 1703–11 by Gabriel E Hetjens-Museum World War II. It now houses the was established to preserve his
Open 11am–6pm Tue–Wed & Fri–Sun, Grupello. The Düsseldorf Schulstraße 4. Tel (0211) 899 42 10. Goethe-Museum, holding legacy and to organize exhib- history dating back to the
11am–9pm Thu. & = 8 - castle, burned down in 1872, Open 11am–5pm Tue & Thu–Sun, memora bilia and documents itions. Düsseldorf’s university 8th century. Its Pfarrkirche
∑ smkp.de only has the Schloßturm (castle 11am–9pm Wed. & related to the writer’s life, and a and a num ber of streets have St Suitbertus, a Romanesque
This art museum is one of the tower) remaining, which now This museum, in the collection of 18th-century art, also been named after Heine. basilica from the 12th century,
most interesting in Germany, houses a museum of Nesselrode Palace, is the funded by Ernst Schneider. has the magnificent 13th-
with a collection of paintings navigation. Another oldest German museum + Schloß Benrath century gol den relic of its
dating from the 16th to the building worth visiting devoted to ceramics. P Heinrich-Heine-Institut Benrather Schloßallee. Tel (0211) 892 patron saint. There are also
20th centuries, including works is the Baroque, post- Visitors can learn Bilker Straße 12–14. Tel (0211) 899 29 19 03. Open Apr–Oct: 11am–5pm the ruins of a palace,
by Rubens, Cranach and Dutch Jesuit Pfarrkir che St about techniques for 02. Open 11am–5pm Tue–Fri & Sun, Tue–Fri, 11am–6pm Sat & Sun; Nov– built in the 12th century for
masters of the 17th century. It Andreas (parish producing faience 1–5pm Sat. & Mar: 11am–5pm Tue–Sun. & 8 Friedrich I Barbarossa.
also holds a large collection of church of St Andrew), and porcelain, and Part of Düsseldorf since 1929,
paintings by the Düsseldorf from the years 1622–9. see global exhibits Benrath is home to this beautiful Environs
Academy, active in the first It has a central ducal from prehistory to Neo-Classical hunting palace, The “Neanderthal” part of the
half of the 19th century, whose mausoleum complex Detail from the façade of the present day. built for the electors of the Düssel valley was originally
best known artists were Peter situated behind the the Lambertuskirche Palatine in 1755–73 by Nicolas named after the poet Joachim
von Cornelius and Friedrich presbytery, where the P Königsallee de Pigage. Decor, beautiful Neander. It became famous in
Wilhelm Schadow. remains of Jan Wellem The “kings’ avenue”, often just furnishings and an extensive 1856, when the remains of ape-
and others are kept. The referred to as Kö, was laid out park and gardens have survived. like creatures were uncovered
P Altstadt Lambertuskirche, the for mer at the beginning of the 19th in a cave. A museum dedicated
The small old town area suffered collegiate church of St century, along the edge of the Kaiserswerth to these “Neanderthal Men” is
severe damage in World War II. Lambertus, is a Gothic hall- old city moat. The Kö is lined The former city moat which runs Today a part of Düsseldorf, located in Mettman, 17 km
Among surviving monuments it church with a tall front tower, with expensive shops. Luxurious alongside Königsallee this area prides itself on a (11 miles) east of Düsseldorf.
is worth seeing some of the built in 1288–1394. Some galleries, exclusive boutiques,
beautiful town houses and the valuable furnishings have department stores, fashion
late-Gothic Rathaus (town hall), survived, including the Gothic houses and shopping centres AirportAirport Düsseldorf City Centre
SCHEIBENSTRASSE
8 km (5 miles)8 km (5 miles)
built in 1570–73. In front of it sacramentarium and important are interspersed with bars KAISERSWERTHKAISERSWERTH SCHEIBENSTRASSE FISCHERSTR. 1 Museum Kunst Palast
stands a famous equestrian Gothic ducal tombs, such as and restaurants. Particularly
MuseumMuseum
that of Duke Wilhelm V, noteworthy is the Art Nouveau Kunst PalastKunst Palast 2 Altstadt
FISCHERSTR.
from 1595–9. Warenhaus Tietz (now housing INSELSTRASSE NordstraßeNordstraße 3 Kunstsammlung Nordrhein-
INSELSTRASSE
the Kaufhof-Galleria depart- OberkasselerOberkasseler TonhalleTonhalle HofgartenHofgarten Westfalen
E Kunstsammlung ment store), which was built in BrückeBrücke TonhalleTonhalle KAISERSTRASSE 4 Hetjens-Museum
HOFGARTENRAMPE
Nordrhein-Westfalen 1907–9, to a design by Joseph HOFGARTENRAMPE 5 Königsallee
JÄGERHOF-
K20: Grabbeplatz 5. Maria Olbrich. MAXIM.- JÄGERHOF- 6 Hofgarten
STRASSE
STRASSE
MAXIM.-
KAISERSTRASSE
WEYHE-ALLEE
Tel (0211) 838 12 04. WEYHE-ALLEE
RATINGER STR.
Open 10am–6pm Tue–Fri, Y Hofgarten Rhein Rhein RATINGER STR.
KunstsammlungKunstsammlung
11am–6pm Sat & Sun. Schloss Jägerhof. Goethemuseum: HEINRICHE- HEINE-ALLEE
Nordrhein-Nordrhein-
10am–10pm 1st Wed of the Jacobistraße 2. Tel (0211) 899 62 62. LambertuskircheLambertuskirche PfarrkirchePfarrkirche WestfalenWestfalen Schauspiel-Schauspiel-
haushaus
month. K21: Ständehaus- Open 11am–5pm Tue–Fri & Sun, SchlossturmSchlossturm St. AndreasSt. Andreas DeutscheDeutsche WELLEM-WELLEM- METTMANNMETTMANN
JAN-JAN-
Oper amOper am
straße 1. Tel (0211) 838 12 04. 1–5pm Sat. & GASSE MERTENS- RheinRhein PLATZPLATZ
Open As for K20. Closed 24, This charming park, originally RathausRathaus BOLKERSTRASSE NEUSTRASSE NEUSTRASSE CORNELIUS-CORNELIUS- SCHADOW-SCHADOW-
PLATZPLATZ
GASSE
BOLKERSTRASSE
MERTENS-
PLATZPLATZ
25 & 31 Dec. & - = 8 laid out in 1769 for Elector Karl Heinrich-Heinrich-
HEINRICHE- HEINE-ALLEE
FLINGERSTRASSE
The art collection of the Theodor, was recreated in the FLINGERSTRASSE Heine-AlleeHeine-Allee IMMERMANN-
R A T H A U S U F E
IMMERMANN-
STRASSE
STRASSE
state of North Rhine- English style at the beginning R A T H A U S U F E R R MARKTSTRASSE
Westphalia is enormous, of the 19th century. The park is Hetjens-Hetjens- STRASSE MITTEL- MITTEL- BREITE STRASSE
featuring mainly the a marvellous setting for Schloß MuseumMuseum BENRATHERSTR. KASERNEN- STR. KASERNEN- STR. SteinstraßeSteinstraße BERLINER ALLEE BERLINER ALLEE HauptbahnhofHauptbahnhof
MARKTSTRASSE
1 km (0.6 miles)1 km (0.6 miles)
STRASSE
BENRATHERSTR.
work of 20th-century Jägerhof, a Baroque hunting KÖNIGSALLEE KÖNIGSALLEE 0 metres 500
BREITE STRASSE
Heinrich-Heinrich-
artists. Particularly lodge dating from the years Heine-InstitutHeine-Institut HOHE STRASSE HOHE STRASSE 0 yards 500
BASTIONSTR.
Interior of the Pfarrkirche St Andreas valuable are 88 1752–63 and built according BASTIONSTR.
BENRATHBENRATH
For hotels and restaurants in this area see pp500–501 and pp526–9 For key to symbols see back flap
396-397_EW_Germany.indd 396 09/10/17 2:33 pm 396-397_EW_Germany.indd 397 09/10/17 2:33 pm
Eyewitness Travel LAYERS PRINTED:
Catalogue template “UK” LAYER
(Source v2.2)
Date 15th January 2013
Size 125mm x 217mm

NOR TH RHINE-WESTPHALIA  397


VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
Practical Information
Road map: B4. * 600,000.
n Immermannstraße 65B
(am Hauptbahnhof), Marktstraße
(0211 1720 2844).
( _ Rosenmontagsumzug
(Carnival Mon), Größte Kirmes am
Rhein (end Jul).
∑ duesseldorf.de
The late-Baroque Schloß Benrath
Transport
to a design by Johann Josef The celebrated German poet £ Konrad-Adenauer-Platz.
Couven and Nicolas de Pigage. Heinrich Heine was born in k north of the centre.
The castle was rebuilt after Düsseldorf in 1797. This institute
World War II. It now houses the was established to preserve his
Goethe-Museum, holding legacy and to organize exhib- history dating back to the
memora bilia and documents itions. Düsseldorf’s university 8th century. Its Pfarrkirche
related to the writer’s life, and a and a num ber of streets have St Suitbertus, a Romanesque
collection of 18th-century art, also been named after Heine. basilica from the 12th century,
funded by Ernst Schneider. has the magnificent 13th-
+ Schloß Benrath century gol den relic of its
P Heinrich-Heine-Institut Benrather Schloßallee. Tel (0211) 892 patron saint. There are also
Bilker Straße 12–14. Tel (0211) 899 29 19 03. Open Apr–Oct: 11am–5pm the ruins of a palace,
02. Open 11am–5pm Tue–Fri & Sun, Tue–Fri, 11am–6pm Sat & Sun; Nov– built in the 12th century for
1–5pm Sat. & Mar: 11am–5pm Tue–Sun. & 8 Friedrich I Barbarossa.
Part of Düsseldorf since 1929,
Benrath is home to this beautiful Environs
Neo-Classical hunting palace, The “Neanderthal” part of the
built for the electors of the Düssel valley was originally
Palatine in 1755–73 by Nicolas named after the poet Joachim
de Pigage. Decor, beautiful Neander. It became famous in
furnishings and an extensive 1856, when the remains of ape-
park and gardens have survived. like creatures were uncovered
in a cave. A museum dedicated
Kaiserswerth to these “Neanderthal Men” is
The former city moat which runs Today a part of Düsseldorf, located in Mettman, 17 km
alongside Königsallee this area prides itself on a (11 miles) east of Düsseldorf.

Düsseldorf City Centre
Airport
8 km (5 miles)
KAISERSWERTH SCHEIBENSTRASSE FISCHERSTR. 1 Museum Kunst Palast
Museum 2 Altstadt
Kunst Palast
Nordstraße 3 Kunstsammlung Nordrhein-
INSELSTRASSE
Tonhalle Hofgarten Westfalen
Oberkasseler
Brücke Tonhalle KAISERSTRASSE 4 Hetjens-Museum
HOFGARTENRAMPE 5 Königsallee
JÄGERHOF- 6 Hofgarten
MAXIM.-
WEYHE-ALLEE STRASSE
Rhein RATINGER STR. Kunstsammlung
Nordrhein-
Westfalen Schauspiel-
Lambertuskirche Pfarrkirche haus
St. Andreas Deutsche JAN- METTMANN
Schlossturm Oper am WELLEM-
PLATZ
Rhein
SCHADOW-
Rathaus NEUSTRASSE PLATZ
BOLKERSTRASSE CORNELIUS- IMMERMANN-
GASSE
MERTENS-
PLATZ
HEINRICHE- HEINE-ALLEE
Heinrich-
R A T H A U S U F E R MARKTSTRASSE FLINGERSTRASSE Heine-Allee STRASSE
Hetjens-
Museum STRASSE MITTEL- KASERNEN- STR. BREITE STRASSE BERLINER ALLEE Hauptbahnhof
1 km (0.6 miles)
BENRATHERSTR. KÖNIGSALLEE Steinstraße 0 metres 500
Heinrich-
Heine-Institut HOHE STRASSE 0 yards 500
BASTIONSTR.
BENRATH
For key to symbols see back flap
396-397_EW_Germany.indd 397 09/10/17 2:33 pm

398  WESTERN GERM AN Y NOR TH RHINE-WESTPHALIA  399

0 Neuss the church without a tower. The In the 18th and 19th centuries, The house where Israel Berr
interior has Gothic works of art Aachen gained great Josaphat Reuter established the
Road map B4. * 150,000. £ @
n Rathausarkaden, Büchel 6 (02131- and stunningly beautiful stained- importance as a spa. Many first-ever news agency in 1850
403 77 95). glass windows, the altar of the buildings from this era have (transferred to London a year
Coronation of the Blessed Virgin long since vanished. Further later) now houses the Inter­
The history of Neuss goes back Mary (late 15th century), a destruction was inflicted by nationales Zeitungs museum,
to Roman days. It developed beautiful 14th-century World War II, yet some historic devoted to the history of
around a Bernhardine Annunciation and a sacrarium monuments have survived. the press, with over 200,000
monastery, which became a (1490). After the dissolution of the The most important of news-papers from the
girls’ boarding school in the Order in 1803, the cathedral these is the Pfalz (see 16th century to today.
12th century. The magnificent suffered a turbulent history. It pp400–401), a complex There has been
13th-century Romanesque now serves as a church for both of buildings belonging an extensive
Münster St Quirinus is the Catholics and Protestants. to Charle-magne’s renovation to house
most famous building. After a Children enjoy Altenberg for its former palace. They a temporary exhibition
fire in 1741, a Baroque dome Märchenwald (fairy-tale wood), include a cathedral with space and lecture halls.
with a statue of St Quirin, the an enchanted forest, with a palace chapel and a It is also worth visiting
patron saint, was added to the interactive scenes and statues hall which was rebuilt the Suermondt­
eastern tower. Also worth seeing representing popular fairy tales. as the Rathaus. Ludwig­Museum, not
is the Obertor (upper gate), built In the old town, near far beyond the town
in 1200, one of the mightiest the cathedral complex, centre, which has a
gates in the Rhineland. r Köln (Cologne) is the church of St great collection of art
Folian, where a Gothic from the Middle Ages
See pp402–9. Madonna dating from until the present
q Dormagen 1411 has survived. A Statue of David day, including some
short distance south Hansemann sculptures and
Road map B4. * 62,000. £ @ t Aachen
n Dormagen, Schloßstraße 2–4 from here stands the paintings from the 17th
(02133-276 28 15). _ Freilichtspiele Road map A4. * 247,000. £ @ Elisenbrunnen (fountain of century. To the north-east of the
in Zons (Jun–Sep). n Friedrich-Wilhelm-Platz (0241- Elizabeth), an exceptionally old town is the spa district of
180 29 60). _ Frühjahrsbend (Apr), beautiful building where Aachen. Here, visitors can stroll
This medium-sized town, which horse-riding competitions CHIO mineral water can be taken. through the park or spend an
principally relies on its chemical The Gothic post-Cistercian Bergischer Dom in Altenberg (Jul), Europamarkt der Kunsthand- It was built in 1822–7 according evening at the casino. Lovers
industry, would not be found in werker (Sep). to designs by Johann Peter of modern art will enjoy
a guide book were it not for two Equally interesting is Knecht- Environs Cremer and Karl Friedrich the Ludwig-Forum für
remarkable historic monuments steden, west of Dormagen, Remscheid, 7 km (4 miles) east Aachen owes its fame to its hot Schinkel. Internationale Kunst, which
within the city limits. On the where an amazing monastery of Solingen, has the Röntgen- springs, whose healing powers After admiring the attractive hosts interesting exhibitions.
banks of the Rhine lies the was built for the Norbertines in Museum, dedicated to Nobel were already highly rated by the houses around the central
fortified customs town of Zons, the 12th century. Amid orchards, Prize winner Wilhelm Röntgen, Romans when they established market square visitors can enjoy E Internationales
established around 1373–1400 the twin-choired basilica has who was born here and baths here in the 1st–2nd the Couven­Museum. Based in Zeitungsmuseum
at the instigation of archbishop mighty towers and attractive discovered the X-ray. One of the centuries AD. The name of the an historic middle-class town Pontstraße 13. Tel (0241) 432 49 10.
Friedrich von Saarwerden. This cloisters. Impressive murals most beautiful buildings is the town, aquae grani or Aquisgrani, house, it has an interesting Open 10am–5pm Tue–Sun. ∑ izm.de
small, four-sided fortress has include a 12th-century depiction Heimatmuseum with displays of also relates to the source. collection dedicated to the life E Suermondt­Ludwig­Museum
survived in excellent con dition. of Christ in the western apsis. typical regional interiors. The settlement grew in the of the bourgeoisie in the 18th Wilhelmstraße 18. Tel (0241) 47 98 00.
The buildings are mainly from a Schloß Burg, on the Wupper 8th century, when Charlemagne and 19th centuries. There is also Open 10am–5pm Tue–Sun. & -
later time, but the walls, gates and river, is the 12th-century chose it as his principal resi- a collection of ceramic tiles 8 =
ruined castle Schloß Friede strom w Solingen fortress of the von Berg family. dence in 768. He built a huge from the 16th–19th centuries. E Couven­Museum
are among the most fascinating Road map B4. * 165,000. £ @ n Many times rebuilt, it now palace complex with Hühnermarkt 17. Tel (0241) 432 44 21.
examples of medieval for- Clemens-Galerien Mummstr. 10 (0212- houses a museum. chapel, cloistered court- Open 10am–5pm Tue–Sun.
tifications in the Rhine Valley. 290 36 01). _ Frühjahrskirmes (Mar). yard and hall for himself. Closed public hols. &
When Charlemagne
Solingen is synonymous with its e Altenberg was crowned emperor Environs
famous factory, where scissors Road map B4. * 5,745. £ @ in 800, Aachen became Kornelimünster, 6 km (4 miles)
and knives are made. The main n Eugen Heinen Platz 2, Odenthal the capital of the southeast of the centre, is a
attraction in town is the Kling- (02174-41 99 50). ∑ altenberg- Holy Roman Empire. beautifully preserved old town
enmuseum, showing cutting info.de Although the town with several churches. The most
tools from the Stone Age to the soon lost this title, it important is the Propsteikirche
present. The Kunstmuseum Altenberg near Odenthal has remained an important St Kornelius, a former
Solingen (Centre for Persecuted preserved its Bergischer Dom, destination for pilgrims Benedictine monastery dating
Arts), featuring works banned by a former Cistercian cathedral and because of the valuable from the early 9th century.
the Nazi regime, is worth a visit. one of the most important relics brought here by The surviving building is a
destinations for pilgrims. Built in Charlemagne. From 14th-century Gothic basilica,
E Kunstmuseum Solingen 1259–1379, it is also one of the the 10th to the 16th extended by the early 16th
Wuppertaler Straße 160. Tel (0212) 258 most beautiful Gothic buildings centuries, all German century to a five-nave structure.
Wupper River in Solingen-Unterburg near 120. Open 10am–5pm Tue–Sun. in Germany. In accordance with kings were crowned in The Neo-Classical building which houses the casino in The chapel of St Kornelius
Wuppertal in Bergisches Land ∑ verfolgte-kuenste.de their rules, the Cistercians built the palace chapel. Aachen’s spa park was added in the 18th century.
For hotels and restaurants in this area see pp500–501 and pp526–9


398-399_EW_Germany.indd 398 09/10/17 12:50 pm 398-399_EW_Germany.indd 399 09/10/17 12:50 pm