(DK Eyewitness) Travel Guide - Germany

BADEN-W Ü R T TEMBERG  299


Balthasar Neumann, with
stuccowork by Johann Michael
Feuchtmayer and paintings by
Johann and Januarius Zick.
The palace suffered severe
bomb damage in 1945, but its
major part was reconstructed
between 1964 and 1975.
St Peter’s church was built in
1740–49 by Johann Georg to
Balthasar Neumann’s 1736
design. The church features
magnificent Baroque tombs of
Schönborn and his successor
Cardinal Franz Christoph von
Baroque Schwetzingen Palace, set amid beautiful gardens Hutten. The palace garden was
designed in the French style by
conversion of the 16th-century palace to be built for himself Johann Scheer.
hunting lodge was carried out and his court. The foundation This former residence of
by J A Breuning and the side stone of Schloß Bruchsal was prince-bishops now houses a
wings were built by Alessandro laid in 1722 and the building section of the Karlsruhe Museum,
Galli da Bibiena. The works were carried out which features Germany’s largest
magnificent Rococo by Maximilian von collection of Flemish and French
theatre, designed by Welsch, who was tapestries. It is also home to the
Nicolas de Pigage, responsible for the Deutsches Musik automaten
was built in 1752, right wing, and Museum, which includes 500
while the palace Michael Rohrer, who mechanical musical instruments.
garden is the work of built the left wing Short demonstra tions are given
Johann Ludwig Petri, between 1723 on these throughout the day.
who designed it in the and 1728. The main
French style. The garden body, preceded by a + Schloß Bruchsal
includes a mosque with ceremonial courtyard, Schönbornstraße 2. Tel (07251) 74 26
two minarets and a was designed by 61. Open 10am–5pm Tue–Sun & hols.
bathhouse. In 1776 Heraldic insignia from Baron Anselm von 8 hourly. Closed 24, 25, 31 Dec. &
Friedrich Ludwig von Bruchsal Palace Grünstein. The central Deutsches Musikautomaten Museum:
Sckell converted it into part of the palace is Open 10am–5pm Tue–Sun. 8 11am,
an English-style garden. occupied by a magnificent 3pm. Closed Shrove Tuesday, 24, 25,
staircase built by the great 31 Dec. & ∑ schloss-bruchsal.de
+ Schloß Schwetzingen
Tel (06202) 12 88 28. Schloß:
Open The palace can only be visited
on a guided tour. 8 obligatory. Tours
in English Sun at 2:15pm. Garden:
Tel (06202) 65 88 80. Open Apr–Oct:
9am–8pm daily; Nov–Mar: 9am–5pm
daily. ∑ schloss-schwetzingen.de
8 Bruchsal
Road map: C6. * 43,000. £ n Am
Alten Schloß 2 (07251-505 94 61).
Bruchsal belonged to the
Bishops of Speyer from 1056
until 1803, since when it has
been part of Baden. The town
rose to prominence in the
17th century, when the Prince-
Bishop of Speyer, Damian
Hugo von Schönborn moved
his residence from Speyer to
Bruchsal. He not only initiated
the town’s development but,
most importantly, ordered a Central façade of the Baroque Schloß Bruchsal




298-299_EW_Germany.indd 299 09/10/17 1:00 pm

300  SOUTHERN GERM AN Y

9 Street-by-Street: Heidelberg

Situated on the banks of the river Neckar,
Heidelberg is one of Germany’s most beautiful
towns. For centuries it was a centre of political
power, with a lively and influential cultural life. In
1386, Germany’s first university was established
here by the Elector Ruprecht I. Building of the
palace began during his reign, continuing until
the mid-17th century. However, in the late
17th century, French incursions totally destroyed Marktplatz
Now adorned with the Neptune
medieval Heidelberg, including the castle. The Fountain, the market square was, in
town was subsequently rebuilt in the early the past, the site of executions and
18th century in Baroque style. the burning of witches and heretics.










H A U P T S T R A S S E







. Heiliggeistkirche H E I L I G G E I S T S T R A S S E
Built in 1400–41 on the site FISCHM ARK T
of a late-Romanesque
basilica, the Church of the
S T E I N G A S S E
Holy Spirit is the town’s
oldest sanctuary.

O B E R E N E C K A R S T R A S S E
0 metres 60
0 yards 60 N E C K A R S T A D E N


L A U E R S T R A S S E






. Alte Brücke
This imposing, nine-
span bridge over
the river Neckar was
Philosophenweg built in 1786–88 by
Built in 1817 on the slopes of Heiligenberg, at an Mathias Maier. In
altitude of 200 m (650 ft), the “Philosophers’ Walk” the background is the
offers magnificent views of Heidelberg and its castle. Heidelberger Schloß.
For hotels and restaurants in this area see pp497–8 and pp522–4


300-301_EW_Germany.indd 300 09/10/17 1:00 pm
Eyewitness Travel LAYERS PRINTED:
Starsight template “UK” LAYER
(Source v2.5)
Date 6th February2013
Size 125mm x 217mm

HEIDELBERG  301


. Haus zum Ritter VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
Built in 1592 for the family of a
rich cloth merchant, the Practical Information
Haus zum Ritter is a fine Road map: C6. * 139,000.
example of German n Willy-Brandt-Platz 1 (Haupt-
Mannerist style. It bahnhof) (06221-584 44 44).
now houses a luxury _ Mannheim-Heidelberger
hotel and restaurant. Filmfestival (mid-Oct), Schloßfest-
spiele (Jul & Aug), Weindorf (Sep),
Heidelberger Herbst (Sep),
Schloßbeleuchtung (Jun, Jul, Sep).
Hexenturm
The tower was once part of Transport
the 13th-century medieval £
town fortifications.












M E R I A N S T R A S S E
E
S UNIVERSITÄTS–
S PLATZ
A
G
U
E Univer­
H
sitäts­
H A U P T S T R A S S E
biblio thek
FISCHM ARK T
Alte Universität
The old university
building, designed by
U N T E R E S T R A S S E
local architect Johann
Adam Breuning, was
E built in 1712–35.
S
S
A
G
R
E
M
E
L A U E R S T R A S S E
S
S
U
B
L A U E R S T R A S S E
Jesuitenkirche
This church was built in 1712–51
for the Jesuits, who arrived in
Key Heidelberg in 1698. The
ornaments on the monumental
Suggested route façade were carved by Paul Egell.



300-301_EW_Germany.indd 301 09/10/17 1:00 pm

302  SOUTHERN GERM AN Y HEIDELBERG  303

Heidelberg Castle VISITORS’ CHECKLIST P Alte Universität
Grabengasse 1. Tel (06221) 54 21 52.
Towering over the town, the majestic castle is really a Practical Information Universitätsmuseum: Open Apr–Oct:
vast residential complex that was built and repeatedly Schloßberg. Tel (06221) 53 84 31. 10am–6pm Tue–Sun; Nov–Mar:
10am–4pm Tue–Sat. &
extended between the 13th and 17th centuries. Open 8am–6pm daily. 8 Großes ∑ uni-heidelberg.de
Fass: Open 8am–5:30pm daily.
Originally a supremely well-fortified Gothic castle, & ∑ schloss-heidelberg.de Designed by Mainz architect
but now mostly in ruins, this was the seat of the Deutsches Apothekenmuseum: Johann Adam Breuning, the
House of Wittelsbach palatines. After remodelling in Tel (06221) 258 80. Open Apr– university was built in 1712–35.
the 16th century, the castle became one of Germany’s Oct: 10am–6pm daily; Nov–Mar: On the north wall and ceiling
10am–5:30pm daily. Closed
most beautiful Renaissance residences. However, its 1 Jan, 31 Dec. & ∑ deutsches- are allegorical paintings by
splendour was extinguished by the Thirty Years’ War apotheken-museum.de Ferdinand Keller. In front of the
building is a fountain crowned
and the 1689 war with France, during which most of . Ottheinrichsbau by a sculpture in the form of the
the structure was destroyed. The Deutsches Apothekenmuseum is heraldic Palatinate lion.
housed within the shell of this Renaissance
building. It features Baroque and Rococo Pulverturm P Universitätsbibliothek
workshops and a travelling pharmacy. Built during the reign of the Plöck 107–109. Tel (06221) 54 23 80.
Elector Ruprecht, this Ausstellungsraum: Open 10am–6pm
14th-century tower once formed Mon–Sat.
part of the castle defences. The monumental building of
the university library, designed
by Joseph Durm of Karlsruhe,
Main entrance
was erected in 1901–05 near
the church of St Peter. The
Heidelberg library, with over
2 million volumes, is one of the
largest in Germany. The
exhibition rooms hold many
precious manuscripts and old
prints, including the famous
Codex Manesse, illustrated with
137 beautiful miniatures.
. Friedrichsbau
One of the latest parts of the E Kurpfälzisches Museum
castle is Friedrich’s Palace, which Hauptstraße 97. Tel (06221) 58 34 020.
dates from 1601–07. On the Open 10am–6pm Tue–Sun. &
façade are statues of the The French Count Charles de
Wittelsbach dynasty, including Graimberg spent the bulk of his
Charles the Great.
considerable fortune on building
up an extensive collection of
fine drawings, paintings, arms
and various curios associated
with the history of the Palatinate
and the castle of Heidelberg. In
1879, his collection became the
property of the town and forms
the core of this very interesting
museum, which also includes a
fascinating archaeology section.
KEY
R Heiliggeistkirche
1 Castle moat Hauptstraße.
2 The bell tower, which was This collegiate church, whose
erected in the early 15th century, Baroque dome is a city land-
was remodelled frequently in mark, was built in 1400–41. The
subsequent years. canons of the college were also
3 Brunnenhalle is a Gothic uni ver sity scholars and there fore
loggia that features early- the church aisle fea tures special
Englischer Bau Romanesque columns taken from galleries for the extensive col lec-
These imposing ruins in the castle the palace of Charles the Great in . Ruprechtsbau tions of library books – Bibliotheca
complex are the remains of a Ingelheim. Built around 1400 by a master Palatina. The choir features a
17th-century building that Friedrich V 4 Torturm builder from Frankfurt, this is the tomb stone of Ruprecht III and his
built for his wife Elizabeth Stuart. oldest surviving part of the castle. wife, Elisabeth von Hohenzollern.
For hotels and restaurants in this area see pp497–8 and pp522–4


302-303_EW_Germany.indd 302 09/10/17 12:49 pm 302-303_EW_Germany.indd 303 09/10/17 12:49 pm

HEIDELBERG  303


VISITORS’ CHECKLIST P Alte Universität
Grabengasse 1. Tel (06221) 54 21 52.
Practical Information Universitätsmuseum: Open Apr–Oct:
Schloßberg. Tel (06221) 53 84 31. 10am–6pm Tue–Sun; Nov–Mar:
Open 8am–6pm daily. 8 Großes 10am–4pm Tue–Sat. &
Fass: Open 8am–5:30pm daily. ∑ uni-heidelberg.de
& ∑ schloss-heidelberg.de Designed by Mainz architect
Deutsches Apothekenmuseum: Johann Adam Breuning, the
Tel (06221) 258 80. Open Apr– university was built in 1712–35.
Oct: 10am–6pm daily; Nov–Mar: On the north wall and ceiling
10am–5:30pm daily. Closed are allegorical paintings by
1 Jan, 31 Dec. & ∑ deutsches-
apotheken-museum.de Ferdinand Keller. In front of the
building is a fountain crowned
by a sculpture in the form of the
heraldic Palatinate lion.
Pulverturm P Universitätsbibliothek
Built during the reign of the Plöck 107–109. Tel (06221) 54 23 80.
Elector Ruprecht, this Ausstellungsraum: Open 10am–6pm
14th-century tower once formed Mon–Sat.
part of the castle defences. The monumental building of
the university library, designed
by Joseph Durm of Karlsruhe,
Main entrance
was erected in 1901–05 near
the church of St Peter. The
Heidelberg library, with over
2 million volumes, is one of the
largest in Germany. The
exhibition rooms hold many
precious manuscripts and old
prints, including the famous
Codex Manesse, illustrated with
137 beautiful miniatures.
E Kurpfälzisches Museum
Hauptstraße 97. Tel (06221) 58 34 020.
Open 10am–6pm Tue–Sun. &
The French Count Charles de
Graimberg spent the bulk of his
considerable fortune on building
up an extensive collection of
fine drawings, paintings, arms
and various curios associated
with the history of the Palatinate
and the castle of Heidelberg. In
1879, his collection became the
property of the town and forms
the core of this very interesting
museum, which also includes a
fascinating archaeology section.
R Heiliggeistkirche
Hauptstraße.
This collegiate church, whose
Baroque dome is a city land-
mark, was built in 1400–41. The
canons of the college were also
uni ver sity scholars and there fore
the church aisle fea tures special
galleries for the extensive col lec-
. Ruprechtsbau tions of library books – Bibliotheca
Built around 1400 by a master Palatina. The choir features a
builder from Frankfurt, this is the tomb stone of Ruprecht III and his
oldest surviving part of the castle. wife, Elisabeth von Hohenzollern.




302-303_EW_Germany.indd 303 09/10/17 12:49 pm

304  SOUTHERN GERM AN Y BADEN-W Ü R T TEMBERG  305

0 Karlsruhe its large collection of q Baden–Baden
mainly German and
Road map B6. * 269,000. £ Road map B6. * 50,000. k Baden
n Bahnhofsplatz 6 (0721 3720 5383). Dutch paintings from Airport (5 km/3 miles northwest of
∑ karlsruhe-tourismus.de the 16th–19th town). £ n Schwarzwaldstraße 52
_ Internationales Trachten-und- centuries. These & “i-Punkt” in der Trinkhalle (07221-275
Folklorefest (Jun). include the famous 233). ∑ baden-baden.de
Crucifixion by
Karlsruhe, which is one of the Grünewald (1523). Known as the “summer capital
“youngest” towns in Germany, Entirely different of Europe”, this elegant spa
flourished during the 19th in character are the resort is one of the oldest towns
century as a centre for science collections of the in Germany and was once the
and art. In 1945, it lost its status Zentrum für Kunst favourite destination of
as a regional capital, but is now und Medientech- European aristocracy from
the seat of the Bundesverfass- nologie (ZKM) – an Russia to Portugal. Even before Baden-Baden’s casino, set in the elegant Kurhaus
ungsge richt – the highest establishment that the Romans built their camp
courts of the Federal Republic. has combined the here around AD 80, the site was from the 15th century onwards. aristocratic family, the Stourdza
The town originated in 1715 role of art college occupied by a Celtic settlement It was remodelled along German Mausoleum. In Schil ler straße is
when the margrave of Baden, and museum since of the Latenian period. Renaissance lines in the 16th the villa built in 1867 for the
Karl Wilhelm von Baden-Durlach, A pyramid containing the tomb of Karl Wilhelm 1997. It occupies a In the early years of the modern century by Kaspar Weinhart. The Russian writer, Ivan Turgenev,
ordered a lodge to be built in von Baden-Durlach in Karlsruhe former ammunitions era, Civitas Aurelia Aquensis – interiors are decorated with who lived here until 1872.
the middle of his favourite factory in the western known simply as Aquae – was paintings by Tobias Stimmer.
hunting grounds. Karl liked the of this large-scale project was part of the town. Its core is the already known in Italy for the Most of the spa buildings are P Brahmshaus
area and the lodge so much that Friedrich Weinbrenner, who Museum für Neue Kunst, therapeutic properties of its the work of Friedrich Wein- Maximilianstraße 85. Tel (07221)
he deci ded to move his residence created this masterpiece of urban featuring installations, com puter waters. In the 3rd century AD, brenner. His elegant Kurhaus in 71172. Open 3–5pm Mon, Wed, Fri,
here and live the remainder of design. The equilateral market art and videos and other work Aquae was conquered by the Werderstraße has been used as 10am–1pm Sun (10am–4pm daily
his days in peace – hence the square is positioned along the by contemporary artists. The Germanic tribe of Alamains and a casino since 1838. The most during Brahmstage). &
town’s name, meaning “Karl’s rest”. palace axis. It is filled with similar Stadtmuseum im Prinz-Max- in the 6th century AD by the famous gamester at the casino The exhibition displayed in
The original Baroque-style design but not identical buildings and Palais, based in a mansion Francs, who built a fortress in was Fyodor Dostoevsky, who this house is devoted to the
was expanded during the reign features a central pyramid named after the last chancellor the town. The margrave, was not always lucky at roulette. life and works of the German
of his successor, Karl Friedrich. containing Karl Wilhelm’s tomb. of the Kaiserreich, contains the Hermann II, known as “Marchio His novel The Gambler (1866) is composer Johannes Brahms
The palace, which forms the South of Marktplatz is the local history museum. de Baduon”, was the first supposedly set in Baden-Baden. who lived here from 1865
hub of 32 streets, was designed circular Rondellplatz. Wein- important ruler of Baden. Nearby is the Trink halle (pump until 1874.
by Leopoldo Retti, Mauritio brenner’s other works include E Staatliche Kunsthalle During the horrific Black Death, room), with its mineral water
Pedetti, Balthasar Neumann, the monumental town hall Hans-Thoma-Straße 2–6. the qualities of the local waters fountains. Built in 1839–42, it is R Kloster Lichtenthal
Philippe de la Guêpière and (1811–25), the Protestant town Tel (0721) 9 26 33 59. Open 10am– were once again recognized as decorated with wall paintings Hauptstraße 40. Tel (07221) 50 49 10.
others, and built in 1749–81. The church and the Catholic parish 6pm Tue–Sun. & ∑ kunsthalle- beneficial to health. During the illustrating Schwarzwald (Black Open 3pm Wed, Sat, Sun. 8 Group
town is based on a fan-like plan, church of St Stephen. karlsruhe.de Palatinate War of Succession, Forest) legends. tours (minimum 7 persons), advance
spreading from a base formed Karlsruhe has some very E Museum für Neue Kunst Baden-Baden was almost Rising behind the spa area telephone booking required. &
by the open-sided wings of the interesting museums. The Lorenzstraße 19. Tel (0721) 8100 1325. totally destroyed but, by the is the last project completed This Cistercian nuns’ abbey,
palace. The rest of the circle, Badisches Landesmuseum in Open 10am–6pm Wed–Fri, end of the 18th century, it had by Leo von Klenze before his situated on the outskirts of
whose centre is marked by the the castle features a large collec- 11am–6pm Sat & Sun. & become one of Europe’s most death – the Orthodox burial town, has a church dating
octagonal palace tower (1715), tion of antiquities, decorative fashionable resorts. chapel of a Romanian from the 14th–15th centuries.
is filled with green areas, inclu- arts, sculpture, porcelain and P Stadtmuseum im The old town of Its ducal chapel contains
ding the palace garden. In the furniture, from the Middle Ages Prinz-Max-Palais Baden-Baden lies at the many epitaphs of the Baden
early 19th century, the town to the present day. In a Neo- Karlstraße 10. Tel (0721) 1 33 42 31. foot of the Schloßberg margraves. The abbey also has
was remodelled along Neo- Renaissance building (1843–46) Open 10am–6pm Tue & Fri, 10am– (castle hill). The oldest an interesting museum.
Classical lines. The main architect is the Staatliche Kunsthalle, with 7pm Thu, 2–6pm Sat, 11am–6pm Sun. surviving building in
the town is the Gothic E Staatliche Kunsthalle
collegiate church, built Baden-Baden
during the 13th–15th Lichtentaler Allee 8a. Tel (07221) 300
centuries and then 76400. Open 10am–6pm Tue–Sun.
remodelled in the ∑ kunsthalle-baden-baden.de
18th century. It contains The Staatliche Kunsthalle
several valuable Baden-Baden is an exhibition
epitaphs. To the south venue that specializes in
of the church is the modern and contemporary art.
bathing hall –
Friedrichsbad – which E Stadtmuseum
was built in Neo- Lichtentaler Allee 10. Tel (07221) 93 22
Renaissance style in 72. Open 11am–6pm Tue–Sun.
1877. Nearby stands The Stadtmuseum includes
the magnificent New sections on glass, porcelain and
Palace, which was the The Neo-Renaissance Trinkhalle (pump room) paintings, as well as some old
The Baroque residence of the Dukes of Baden in Karlsruhe residence of margraves in Baden-Baden gambling equipment.
For hotels and restaurants in this area see pp497–8 and pp522–4


304-305_EW_Germany.indd 304 09/10/17 1:00 pm 304-305_EW_Germany.indd 305 09/10/17 1:00 pm
Eyewitness Travel LAYERS PRINTED:
Catalogue template “UK” LAYER
(Source v2.2)
Date 15th January 2013
Size 125mm x 217mm

BADEN-W Ü R T TEMBERG  305

q Baden–Baden
Road map B6. * 50,000. k Baden
Airport (5 km/3 miles northwest of
town). £ n Schwarzwaldstraße 52
& “i-Punkt” in der Trinkhalle (07221-275
233). ∑ baden-baden.de
Known as the “summer capital
of Europe”, this elegant spa
resort is one of the oldest towns
in Germany and was once the
favourite destination of
European aristocracy from
Russia to Portugal. Even before Baden-Baden’s casino, set in the elegant Kurhaus
the Romans built their camp
here around AD 80, the site was from the 15th century onwards. aristocratic family, the Stourdza
occupied by a Celtic settlement It was remodelled along German Mausoleum. In Schil ler straße is
of the Latenian period. Renaissance lines in the 16th the villa built in 1867 for the
In the early years of the modern century by Kaspar Weinhart. The Russian writer, Ivan Turgenev,
era, Civitas Aurelia Aquensis – interiors are decorated with who lived here until 1872.
known simply as Aquae – was paintings by Tobias Stimmer.
already known in Italy for the Most of the spa buildings are P Brahmshaus
therapeutic properties of its the work of Friedrich Wein- Maximilianstraße 85. Tel (07221)
waters. In the 3rd century AD, brenner. His elegant Kurhaus in 71172. Open 3–5pm Mon, Wed, Fri,
Aquae was conquered by the Werderstraße has been used as 10am–1pm Sun (10am–4pm daily
Germanic tribe of Alamains and a casino since 1838. The most during Brahmstage). &
in the 6th century AD by the famous gamester at the casino The exhibition displayed in
Francs, who built a fortress in was Fyodor Dostoevsky, who this house is devoted to the
the town. The margrave, was not always lucky at roulette. life and works of the German
Hermann II, known as “Marchio His novel The Gambler (1866) is composer Johannes Brahms
de Baduon”, was the first supposedly set in Baden-Baden. who lived here from 1865
important ruler of Baden. Nearby is the Trink halle (pump until 1874.
During the horrific Black Death, room), with its mineral water
the qualities of the local waters fountains. Built in 1839–42, it is R Kloster Lichtenthal
were once again recognized as decorated with wall paintings Hauptstraße 40. Tel (07221) 50 49 10.
beneficial to health. During the illustrating Schwarzwald (Black Open 3pm Wed, Sat, Sun. 8 Group
Palatinate War of Succession, Forest) legends. tours (minimum 7 persons), advance
Baden-Baden was almost Rising behind the spa area telephone booking required. &
totally destroyed but, by the is the last project completed This Cistercian nuns’ abbey,
end of the 18th century, it had by Leo von Klenze before his situated on the outskirts of
become one of Europe’s most death – the Orthodox burial town, has a church dating
fashionable resorts. chapel of a Romanian from the 14th–15th centuries.
The old town of Its ducal chapel contains
Baden-Baden lies at the many epitaphs of the Baden
foot of the Schloßberg margraves. The abbey also has
(castle hill). The oldest an interesting museum.
surviving building in
the town is the Gothic E Staatliche Kunsthalle
collegiate church, built Baden-Baden
during the 13th–15th Lichtentaler Allee 8a. Tel (07221) 300
centuries and then 76400. Open 10am–6pm Tue–Sun.
remodelled in the ∑ kunsthalle-baden-baden.de
18th century. It contains The Staatliche Kunsthalle
several valuable Baden-Baden is an exhibition
epitaphs. To the south venue that specializes in
of the church is the modern and contemporary art.
bathing hall –
Friedrichsbad – which E Stadtmuseum
was built in Neo- Lichtentaler Allee 10. Tel (07221) 93 22
Renaissance style in 72. Open 11am–6pm Tue–Sun.
1877. Nearby stands The Stadtmuseum includes
the magnificent New sections on glass, porcelain and
Palace, which was the The Neo-Renaissance Trinkhalle (pump room) paintings, as well as some old
residence of margraves in Baden-Baden gambling equipment.




304-305_EW_Germany.indd 305 09/10/17 1:00 pm

306  SOUTHERN GERM AN Y BADEN-W Ü R T TEMBERG  307

w Maulbronn . Chapter House VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
The monks assembled
Situated on the edge of the Stromberg region, in this Gothic hall to Practical Information
Maulbronn grew up around a Cistercian monastery, discuss affairs affecting Road map: C6. * 6,400.
the monastery. The
n Stadt verwaltung Maulbronn,
which was founded in 1147 in the valley of the river hall has two naves, Klosterhof 31 (07043-10 30).
Salzach by monks who came here from Alsace. The which are supported ∑ kloster-maulbronn.de
church, built in 1147–78, is an elongated, triple-nave by three pillars. Infozentrum: Klosterhof 5. Tel
basilica with a transept and a chancel. The early Gothic (07043) 92 66 10. Open Mar–Oct:
porch in front of the church was added in 1220. Outside 9am–5:30pm daily; Nov–Feb:
9am–5:30pm Tue–Sun. &
the enclosure are domestic buildings, such as a former Cloisters
mill, a forge, a bakery and a guest house. Defence walls In the Middle Ages, monks meditated as
with turrets and a gate tower encircle the entire they walked around the cloisters, which Church Interior
Originally the
gave them protection
complex, which was designated a UNESCO World from bad weather. church had a
Heritage Site in 1993. Talking was wooden ceiling.
strictly forbidden. In 1424 it was
replaced with a
. Brunnenkapelle network vault,
Built opposite the which stands in
entrance to the stark contrast to
refectory, the Well the plain walls.
Chapel, with its
intricate Gothic forms,
is where the monks
used to wash their
hands before meals.
. Mourning
This Gothic relief, made in around
1390 in the Parler family workshop,
was part of an altar, which no
longer exists. Today, it can be
seen on the chancel in the
monastery’s choir.


















Inner Courtyard
Once a garden, the monastery’s inner
courtyard is surrounded by cloisters. It
is a place that inspires contemplation.
The Porch
The porch,
also known as
KEY “Paradise”, was built . Stalls
onto the church Richly decorated with carved
1 Cloisters façade in the early ornaments, the late-Gothic stalls
13th century. date from around 1450.
For hotels and restaurants in this area see pp497–8 and pp522–4


306-307_EW_Germany.indd 306 09/10/17 1:00 pm 306-307_EW_Germany.indd 307 09/10/17 1:00 pm
Eyewitness Travel LAYERS PRINTED:
Starsight template “UK” LAYER
(Source v2.5)
Date 6th February2013
Size 125mm x 217mm

BADEN-W Ü R T TEMBERG  307


. Chapter House VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
The monks assembled
in this Gothic hall to Practical Information
discuss affairs affecting Road map: C6. * 6,400.
the monastery. The n Stadt verwaltung Maulbronn,
hall has two naves, Klosterhof 31 (07043-10 30).
which are supported ∑ kloster-maulbronn.de
by three pillars. Infozentrum: Klosterhof 5. Tel
(07043) 92 66 10. Open Mar–Oct:
9am–5:30pm daily; Nov–Feb:
9am–5:30pm Tue–Sun. &

Church Interior
Originally the
church had a
wooden ceiling.
In 1424 it was
replaced with a
network vault,
which stands in
stark contrast to
the plain walls.




. Mourning
This Gothic relief, made in around
1390 in the Parler family workshop,
was part of an altar, which no
longer exists. Today, it can be
seen on the chancel in the
monastery’s choir.




























. Stalls
Richly decorated with carved
ornaments, the late-Gothic stalls
date from around 1450.




306-307_EW_Germany.indd 307 09/10/17 1:00 pm

308  SOUTHERN GERM AN Y BADEN-W Ü R T TEMBERG  309

e Heilbronn once renowned the order of Frederick I Barbarossa housed in a Neo-Baroque palace. old centre will yield many
throughout Europe in 1165–75, this was the main Its collection is not limited to the interesting sights, while a climb
Road map C6. * 119,000. £
n Kaiserstraße 17 (07131-56 22 70). for the magnificent and the biggest imperial palace life and work of Schiller, but also to the top of the hill affords a
_ Pferdemarkt (Feb), Neckarfest (Jun). goods produced by (Kaiserpfalz) of the Holy Roman includes many documents splendid view of the town and
its goldsmiths. It Empire. One of the surviving relating to German literature. the Neckar valley, as well as the
Heilbronn’s earliest records date has many great towers offers a spectacular view Other attractions in amazing Innere Brücke, a
from the 8th century, when historic buildings, over the Neckar valley. Marbach include some of 14th-century bridge. From
the town was known as “Heli- mainly churches, Set in a picturesque location, the original half-timbered there visitors can descend
brunna”. By the late 19th such as the late- Bad Wimpfen features many houses and the remains towards the market
century, Heilbronn had become Romanesque church half-timbered houses dating of the town walls and square, stopping on the
Württemberg’s main industrial of St John, which from the 16th–18th centuries. gates in the old town. way to visit Frauenkirche,
centre, with a large port on the dates from around Bad Wimpfen im Tal is built The late-Gothic a Gothic hall-church
river Neckar. Having suffered 1220, but was around the former collegiate Alexanderkirche is also dating from the 14th
major des truction during World Half-timbered houses on the bank of the river Kocher, in subsequently church of St Peter and St Paul. worth a visit. Built in the century. Its front
War II, the town’s surviving Schwäbisch Hall remodelled. The This is a triple-nave basilica with second half of the 12th tower, the work of
buildings include the church of church of St Cross is transept, two eastern towers century by Aberlin Jörg, Ulrich and Matthäus
St Kilian, a Gothic basilica from r Schwäbisch Hall famous not only for being the and cloister, dating from the it features interesting von Ensingen, was
the second half of the 13th cen- Road map C6. * 35,000. £ first Gothic hall-church in 13th–15th centuries. The south network vaulting added later. In the
tury, with a triple-nave hall-choir n Am Markt 9 (0791-751 321). southern Germany, but also façade of the transept and the covered with paintings. market square is the
flanked by two towers. The west- _ Kuchen-und Brunnenfest der the first major work of the portal are richly decorated with Stadtkirche St
ern tower was built in 1508–29. Haller Salzsieder (Whitsun). famous family of architects – carvings, which are probably P Schiller-Geburtshaus Dionysius, the oldest
The magnificent altarpiece is an the Parlers. This triple-nave the work of Erwin von Steinbach, Niklastorstraße 31. church in town, built
original late-Gothic polyptych, Archaeological exca- hall with a hall-choir, one of the builders of Strasbourg Tel (07144) 175 67. Friedrich Schiller in the 13th century
the work of Hans Seyffer (1498). vations in 1939 proved featuring an ambulatory Cathedral. The church interior Open Apr–Sep 9am–5pm; statue in Marbach on the site of an
Near the 15th–16th-century the existence of a Celtic and a ring of side features many original carved Nov–Mar: 10am–4pm. earlier, 8th-century
Rathaus (town hall) is a house settlement on this site as chapels, was built in statues and stalls. Closed 24, 25, 26, 31 Dec. & building. Inside are magnificent
reputed to have been the home early as 500 BC. The town several stages, between E Schiller-Nationalmuseum early-Gothic stained-glass
of Käthchen, a char acter in features a great number 1320 and 1521. Its Schillerhöhe 8–10. Tel (07144) 84 80. windows and late-15th-
Heinrich von Kleist’s play of historic buildings western façade has a u Marbach Open 10am–6pm Tue–Sun. century Gothic furnishings,
Das Käthchen von Heilbronn. from various periods, high triangular top Road map C6. *1,450. £ Closed 24, 25, 26, 31 Dec. & including the choir partition,
Near the rebuilt church of including many half- with blind windows. n Marktstraße 23 (07144-10 22 97) the sacrarium and the font. The
St Peter and St Paul (originally timbered 15th–16th- Inside the church are ∑ schillerstadt-marbach.de . nearby church of St Paul, built
the church of the Teutonic Order) century houses, many valuable historic i Esslingen in the mid-13th century for the
stands the former Teutonic Baroque town houses, relics, such as the This small town would probably Road map C6. *92,000. Dominicans, is the oldest
convent – the Deutschhof. and a Rococo town hall Holy Sepulchre (1400), never merit an entry in any n Marktplatz 2 (0711-396 390). surviving Dominican church in
Heilbronn is also one of and town palace the stalls, which date guidebook were it not for the Germany. In neighbouring
Germany’s largest wine- (Keckenburg). The most from around 1550, fact that in 1759 the great writer Set among vineyards on the Rathausplatz stands the half-
producing towns. interesting building is and the organ Friedrich Schiller was born here. banks of the river Neckar, the timbered old town hall, Altes
the hall-church of St Madonna with Child, gallery (1688). The modest, half-timbered beautiful town of Esslingen is Rathaus, with its beautiful
Michael, whose Gothic in Marktplatz, Other interesting house in which the poet spent famous for its sparkling wines. Renaissance façade, and the
main body was built in Schwäbisch Gmünd structures in the his childhood has survived, and The town’s historic buildings Baroque new town hall.
1427–56. The Romanesque town include the is now a small museum – the were fortunate in surviving Designed as a palace for
tower on the western façade, town fortifications and several Schiller-Geburtshaus. The town intact the ravages of World War Gottlieb von Palm by Gottlieb
however, dates from the half-timbered houses. also possesses a vast museum II. A walk through the winding David Kandlers, the Neues
12th century. The late-Gothic of literature (Schiller- streets and narrow alleys of the Rathaus was built between
hall-choir (1495–1527) is famous Nationalmuseum), which is 1748 and 1751.
for its decorative network vaults. y Bad Wimpfen
Original furnishings include the Road map C6. * 6,676. £
main altar, the stalls and the n Hauptstraße 45 (07063-9 72 00).
Holy Sepulchre. _ Talmarkt (Jun/Jul), Zunftmarkt
(Aug), Weihnachtsmarkt (Dec).
t Schwäbisch ∑ badwimpfen.de
Gmünd The town of Bad Wimpfen was
created out of two settlements,
Road map C6. * 63,400. £ Bad Wimpfen am Berg and Bad
n Marktplatz 37/1 (07171-60 34 Wimpfen im Tal, which remain
250). _ Internationales Schatten- distinct to this day. The settle-
theater Festival (Jun), European ment on top of the hill grew
Church Music (Jul).
around the Hohenstauf family
This town – the birthplace palace, whose chapel and well-
of the architect Peter Parler preserved arcade windows,
Isaak Habrecht’s astronomical clock on and painters Hans Baldung resting on pairs of decorated
Heilbronn town hall Grien and Jörg Ratgeb – was columns, can still be seen. Built at The picturesque houses and chapel of Esslingen’s 14th-century Innere Brücke
For hotels and restaurants in this area see pp497–8 and pp522–4


308-309_EW_Germany.indd 308 09/10/17 1:00 pm 308-309_EW_Germany.indd 309 09/10/17 1:00 pm

BADEN-W Ü R T TEMBERG  309


the order of Frederick I Barbarossa housed in a Neo-Baroque palace. old centre will yield many
in 1165–75, this was the main Its collection is not limited to the interesting sights, while a climb
and the biggest imperial palace life and work of Schiller, but also to the top of the hill affords a
(Kaiserpfalz) of the Holy Roman includes many documents splendid view of the town and
Empire. One of the surviving relating to German literature. the Neckar valley, as well as the
towers offers a spectacular view Other attractions in amazing Innere Brücke, a
over the Neckar valley. Marbach include some of 14th-century bridge. From
Set in a picturesque location, the original half-timbered there visitors can descend
Bad Wimpfen features many houses and the remains towards the market
half-timbered houses dating of the town walls and square, stopping on the
from the 16th–18th centuries. gates in the old town. way to visit Frauenkirche,
Bad Wimpfen im Tal is built The late-Gothic a Gothic hall-church
around the former collegiate Alexanderkirche is also dating from the 14th
church of St Peter and St Paul. worth a visit. Built in the century. Its front
This is a triple-nave basilica with second half of the 12th tower, the work of
transept, two eastern towers century by Aberlin Jörg, Ulrich and Matthäus
and cloister, dating from the it features interesting von Ensingen, was
13th–15th centuries. The south network vaulting added later. In the
façade of the transept and the covered with paintings. market square is the
portal are richly decorated with Stadtkirche St
carvings, which are probably P Schiller-Geburtshaus Dionysius, the oldest
the work of Erwin von Steinbach, Niklastorstraße 31. church in town, built
one of the builders of Strasbourg Tel (07144) 175 67. Friedrich Schiller in the 13th century
Cathedral. The church interior Open Apr–Sep 9am–5pm; statue in Marbach on the site of an
features many original carved Nov–Mar: 10am–4pm. earlier, 8th-century
statues and stalls. Closed 24, 25, 26, 31 Dec. & building. Inside are magnificent
E Schiller-Nationalmuseum early-Gothic stained-glass
Schillerhöhe 8–10. Tel (07144) 84 80. windows and late-15th-
u Marbach Open 10am–6pm Tue–Sun. century Gothic furnishings,
Closed 24, 25, 26, 31 Dec. & including the choir partition,
Road map C6. *1,450. £
n Marktstraße 23 (07144-10 22 97) the sacrarium and the font. The
∑ schillerstadt-marbach.de . nearby church of St Paul, built
i Esslingen in the mid-13th century for the
This small town would probably Road map C6. *92,000. Dominicans, is the oldest
never merit an entry in any n Marktplatz 2 (0711-396 390). surviving Dominican church in
guidebook were it not for the Germany. In neighbouring
fact that in 1759 the great writer Set among vineyards on the Rathausplatz stands the half-
Friedrich Schiller was born here. banks of the river Neckar, the timbered old town hall, Altes
The modest, half-timbered beautiful town of Esslingen is Rathaus, with its beautiful
house in which the poet spent famous for its sparkling wines. Renaissance façade, and the
his childhood has survived, and The town’s historic buildings Baroque new town hall.
is now a small museum – the were fortunate in surviving Designed as a palace for
Schiller-Geburtshaus. The town intact the ravages of World War Gottlieb von Palm by Gottlieb
also possesses a vast museum II. A walk through the winding David Kandlers, the Neues
of literature (Schiller- streets and narrow alleys of the Rathaus was built between
Nationalmuseum), which is 1748 and 1751.

















The picturesque houses and chapel of Esslingen’s 14th-century Innere Brücke




308-309_EW_Germany.indd 309 09/10/17 1:00 pm

310  SOUTHERN GERM AN Y BADEN-W Ü R T TEMBERG  311

o Ludwigsburg VISITORS’ CHECKLIST

Situated near Stuttgart and known as the Practical Information
“Versailles of Swabia”, Ludwigsburg was Road map: C6. * 80,000.
n Eberhardstraße 1 (07141-
founded in 1704 on the initiative of Eberhard 910 22 52). Residenzschloß:
Ludwig, Duke of Württemberg. At the heart of Schlosstraße 30. Tel (07141) 18 20
the town is the vast palace complex, which 04. 8 10am–5pm (every 30 mins).
the Duke ordered to be built for his mistress, In English: mid-Mar–mid-Nov:
1:30pm & 3:15pm Mon–Fri, 11am,
Countess Wilhelmine von Grävenitz. The 11:15am, 1:15pm, 1:30pm, 3:15pm
construction of the palace, which was carried Northern Garden . Schloß Favorite & 3:30pm Sat & Sun; mid-Nov–
out between 1704 and 1733, involved many This magnificent The “Favorite” hunting lodge was mid-Mar: 1:30pm, 3:15pm daily.
outstanding architects and interior decorators, Baroque park is the built between 1716 and 1723, but Mode-, Keramik-museums,
Barockgalerie: Open 10am–5pm
its interior has been remodelled in
venue for a flower show
including Philipp Jenisch, Johann Nette, (“Blooming Baroque”) Neo-Classical style. daily. &
Donato Frisoni and Diego Carlone. that is held here during
the summer. Transport
£
. Western Gallery
The gallery features
opulent stucco
ornaments by Ricardo
Retti and Diego
Carlone (1712–15).
















Märchengarten
The landscaped section
of the park includes
. Marble Hall the “Fairy-tale
This vast hall in the new Garden”, which
wing of the palace was contains
remodel led in 1816, but still figures and
retains some of its Baroque models from
interior decor. German fairy-tales.

KEY
1 The new wing of the palace
houses a museum devoted to court
art of the Neo-Classical period.
2 The old wing contains the
palace’s oldest apartments.
3 The upper fruit garden attracts
. Queen’s Library Emichsburg visitors with its picturesque paths,
The library is housed in the This romantic castle, built in which are lined with apple trees
east wing of the palace, in 1798–1802, was named after and grapevines.
the apartments arranged for the founder of the 4 Restaurant and café
Queen Charlotte Mathilde. Württemberg dynasty.
For hotels and restaurants in this area see pp497–8 and pp522–4


310-311_EW_Germany.indd 310 09/10/17 12:49 pm 310-311_EW_Germany.indd 311 09/10/17 12:49 pm

BADEN-W Ü R T TEMBERG  311


VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
Practical Information
Road map: C6. * 80,000.
n Eberhardstraße 1 (07141-
910 22 52). Residenzschloß:
Schlosstraße 30. Tel (07141) 18 20
04. 8 10am–5pm (every 30 mins).
In English: mid-Mar–mid-Nov:
1:30pm & 3:15pm Mon–Fri, 11am,
11:15am, 1:15pm, 1:30pm, 3:15pm
. Schloß Favorite & 3:30pm Sat & Sun; mid-Nov–
The “Favorite” hunting lodge was mid-Mar: 1:30pm, 3:15pm daily.
built between 1716 and 1723, but Mode-, Keramik-museums,
its interior has been remodelled in Barockgalerie: Open 10am–5pm
Neo-Classical style. daily. &
Transport
£
























Märchengarten
The landscaped section
of the park includes
the “Fairy-tale
Garden”, which
contains
figures and
models from
German fairy-tales.

KEY
1 The new wing of the palace
houses a museum devoted to court
art of the Neo-Classical period.
2 The old wing contains the
palace’s oldest apartments.
3 The upper fruit garden attracts
Emichsburg visitors with its picturesque paths,
This romantic castle, built in which are lined with apple trees
1798–1802, was named after and grapevines.
the founder of the 4 Restaurant and café
Württemberg dynasty.




310-311_EW_Germany.indd 311 09/10/17 12:49 pm

312  SOUTHERN GERM AN Y STUT T GAR T  313

p Stuttgart early 19th century. They have now houses a restaurant, the VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
maintained, to this day, much Prinzenbau (1605–78), and Road map C6. * 586,000.
The capital of Baden-Württemberg, Stuttgart is one of the of their original charm, with the Stiftsfruchtkasten, an n Königstraße 1A (0711­22 280).
largest and most important towns of the Federal Republic. neat avenues and interesting attractive gabled granary (1578), _ Frühlingsfest (Apr/May),
It grew from a 10th-century stud farm, known as Stutengarten, sculptures. The attractions now home to a museum of Stuttgarter Weindorf (Aug/Sep,
to become the ducal (1321) and later the royal (1806) capital include the Carl-Zeiss- musical instruments. Oct/Nov), Fellbacher Herbst (Oct),
Planetarium, which runs an
Weihnachtsmarkt (Dec).
of Württemberg. Beautifully situated among picturesque hills, excellent science programme, R Stiftskirche (Hl. Kreuz) ∑ stuttgart-tourist.de
the town is a major industrial centre with many important using equipment made by the Stiftstraße 12.
manufacturing plants. It is also a well-known publishing and famous optics company. From the south side of Schil­ Transport
k South of town. £
cultural centre, with a world-famous ballet company, chamber On the edge of the park stands Cloistered courtyard of the Renaissance lerplatz there is a view of the
orchestra and splendid art collections. a vast Neo-Classical theatre Altes Schloß presbytery of the collegiate
building, the Württem bergisches church of the Holy Cross. This P Hegel-Haus
Staatstheater, built in 1909–12 Württemberg, which includes Gothic church, the work of Eberhardstraße 53. Tel (0711) 216 964
Exploring Stuttgart by Max Littmann. In 1982–3 it was vast collections of decorative Hänslin and Aberlin Jörg, was 05. Open 10am–5:30pm Mon–Fri,
Start your tour of Stuttgart at given a new, dome-covered art, including those displaying built in the 15th century and 10am–6:30pm Thu, 10am–4pm Sat.
Schlossplatz, continuing wing, the Theaterpavilion, the ducal and royal insignia of incorporated the walls of the Georg Wilhelm Friedrich Hegel –
along Königstraße towards designed by Gottfried Böhm. Württemberg. The prehistory previous, early­Gothic church. the creator of one of the most
the Palace Gardens, with their section includes jewellery from Despite World War II damage, important modern philosophical
many interesting buildings, and E Staatsgalerie the Frankish period and the this renovated church still has systems – was born in this
stopping to pay a visit to the See pp316–17. preserved tomb of a Celtic the original stone gallery of the house on 27 August 1770.
Staatsgalerie, whose extension nobleman from Hochdorf. dukes of Württemberg, built in The house is now a museum,
was designed by the British + Altes Schloß 1576–84 by Simon Schlör to a which houses an exhibition
architect James Stirling. From Landes museum Württemberg P Schillerplatz design by Johann Steiner, as devoted to the life and work of
there you can return via Konrad- Neo-Classical façade of Schillerplatz 6. Tel (0 711) 895 3511. This is undoubtedly one of well as Gothic furnishings. the famous philosopher.
Adenauer-Straße, heading Stuttgart’s Staatstheater Open 10am–5pm Tue–Sat, 10am–6pm Stuttgart’s most beautiful areas.
towards Karlsplatz, then to Sun. & ∑ landesmuseum- It is here that the stud farm that
Schillerplatz and Marktplatz E Kunstmuseum Stuttgart stuttgart.de gave Stuttgart its name is said to
with its magnificent town hall, Kleiner Schloßplatz 1. Tel (0711) 216 When Württemberg castle have stood. Today, a pensive
finally ending the walk at 196 00. Open 10am–6pm Tue–Sun burned down in 1311, it was statue of Friedrich Schiller, the
Hegelhaus museum. (to 9pm Fri). & 0 = decided to move the family seat work of the Danish sculptor Bertel
∑ kunstmuseum-stuttgart.de to Stuttgart. In 1325, the Thorwaldsen (1839), occupies
P Schloßplatz existing small castle was the centre of the square.
At the centre of the square The spectacular glass cube of extended, creating Dütnitzbau. Schillerplatz is surrounded by
stands the Jubiläumssäule – the Kunstmuseum Stuttgart was This wing has survived and can historic buildings: the Old
a column erected in 1842–46 designed by the Berlin architects be seen from Karlsplatz. A large- Chancellery, built in 1542–44
to celebrate the 25-year reign Hascher & Jehle. It houses the scale Renaissance remodelling and extended upwards in 1566, Figures of saints adorning the façade of the Stiftskirche
of Wilhelm I. The square Municipal Art Collection, which project, designed by Aberlin
also features sculptures includes works by such artists Tresch and carried out in Weißenhofsiedlung,
by many famous artists, as Adolf Hölzel, Joseph Kosuth, 1553–78, gave the castle its Stuttgart City Centre Porsche-Museum
including Alexander Calder Dieter Krieg, Dieter Roth, the square layout, with three-storey 1 Schloßplatz Hauptbahnhof CANSTATTER STR. BAD CANNSTATT,
WAIBLINGEN
and Alfred Hrdlicka. The east Swabian Impressionists and arcaded cloisters encircling 2 Kunstmuseum Planetarium
side of the square features has an outstanding collection the inner courtyard. The Stuttgart Linden- K R I E G S B E R G S T R A S S E Hauptbahnhof
a huge palace complex, Neues of Otto Dix’s work. southwestern wing contains 3 Schloßgarten Museum FRIEDRICHSTRASSE (Arnulf-Klett-Platz) Staatsgalerie WILLY-BRANDT-STRAßE
Schloß, built in 1746–1807, the Schloßkapelle (chapel), 4 Staatsgalerie Schloss KRONENSTRASSE SCHILLERSTRASSE
Solitude
while on the opposite side Y Schloßgarten the first sacral building in 5 Altes Schloß KEPLERSTRASSE
stands Königsbau, a Neo- The magnificent gardens Stuttgart built especially for LAUTENSCHLAGERSTR. Schlossgarten Mercedes-Benz
Museum
Classical structure erected stretching north of the Neues the Protestants. The castle now 6 Schillerplatz HOLZGARTENSTRASSE (Friedrichsbau) KÖNIGSTRASSE Staats-
Keplerstr.
in 1856–60. Schloß were established in the houses the Landesmuseum 7 Stiftskirche theater
Hl. Kreuz BOLZSTRASSE Staatsgalerie
8 Hegel­Haus Liederhalle Königsbau Kunstmuseum
SCHLOSSSTRASSE KONRAD - ADENAUER - STRASSE
Liederhalle KIENESTRASSE SCHLOSS- URBANSTRASSE
PLATZ
BERLINER- Hospitalkirche Neues
PLATZ Fruchtkasten Schloss
Hohe THEODOR - HEUSS - STRASSE Stadtmitte Schlossplatz
Straße SCHILLER- Altes Schloss Wilhelms-
HOSPITALSTR. Stiftskirche Charlotten-
PLATZ
palais
GYMNASIUMSTRASSE
OLGA- STRASSE
CALWER STR. KRONPRINZSTRASSE Hl. Kreuz Markt- UHLANDSTR.
platz
halle
DOROTHEENSTR.
FRITZ-ELSAS-STRASSE
PLATZ
Stadtmitte LANGE STRASSE MARKT- STRASSE
(Rotebühlplatz) ROSENSTR.
EBERHA RDSTRASSE
0 metres 300 Hegel-Haus HAUPTSTÄTTER STRASSE CHARLOTTEN-
Flughafen
SINDELFINGEN 7 km (4 miles)
0 yards 300 TO RSTRASSE Leonhards- Fernsehturm
kirche
The façade of Stuttgart’s Neues Schloß, combining Baroque and Neo-Classical elements Rathaus
For hotels and restaurants in this area see pp497–9 and pp522–4 For additional map symbols see back flap
312-313_EW_Germany.indd 312 09/10/17 1:00 pm 312-313_EW_Germany.indd 313 09/10/17 1:00 pm
Eyewitness Travel LAYERS PRINTED:
Catalogue template “UK” LAYER
(Source v2.2)
Date 15th January 2013
Size 125mm x 217mm

STUT T GAR T  313


now houses a restaurant, the VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
Prinzenbau (1605–78), and Road map C6. * 586,000.
the Stiftsfruchtkasten, an n Königstraße 1A (0711­22 280).
attractive gabled granary (1578), _ Frühlingsfest (Apr/May),
now home to a museum of Stuttgarter Weindorf (Aug/Sep,
musical instruments. Oct/Nov), Fellbacher Herbst (Oct),
Weihnachtsmarkt (Dec).
R Stiftskirche (Hl. Kreuz) ∑ stuttgart-tourist.de
Stiftstraße 12.
From the south side of Schil­ Transport
k South of town. £
Cloistered courtyard of the Renaissance lerplatz there is a view of the
Altes Schloß presbytery of the collegiate
church of the Holy Cross. This P Hegel-Haus
Württemberg, which includes Gothic church, the work of Eberhardstraße 53. Tel (0711) 216 964
vast collections of decorative Hänslin and Aberlin Jörg, was 05. Open 10am–5:30pm Mon–Fri,
art, including those displaying built in the 15th century and 10am–6:30pm Thu, 10am–4pm Sat.
the ducal and royal insignia of incorporated the walls of the Georg Wilhelm Friedrich Hegel –
Württemberg. The prehistory previous, early­Gothic church. the creator of one of the most
section includes jewellery from Despite World War II damage, important modern philosophical
the Frankish period and the this renovated church still has systems – was born in this
preserved tomb of a Celtic the original stone gallery of the house on 27 August 1770.
nobleman from Hochdorf. dukes of Württemberg, built in The house is now a museum,
1576–84 by Simon Schlör to a which houses an exhibition
P Schillerplatz design by Johann Steiner, as devoted to the life and work of
This is undoubtedly one of well as Gothic furnishings. the famous philosopher.
Stuttgart’s most beautiful areas.
It is here that the stud farm that
gave Stuttgart its name is said to
have stood. Today, a pensive
statue of Friedrich Schiller, the
work of the Danish sculptor Bertel
Thorwaldsen (1839), occupies
the centre of the square.
Schillerplatz is surrounded by
historic buildings: the Old
Chancellery, built in 1542–44
and extended upwards in 1566, Figures of saints adorning the façade of the Stiftskirche

Stuttgart City Centre Weißenhofsiedlung,
Porsche-Museum
1 Schloßplatz Hauptbahnhof CANSTATTER STR. BAD CANNSTATT,
WAIBLINGEN
2 Kunstmuseum Planetarium
Stuttgart Linden- K R I E G S B E R G S T R A S S E (Arnulf-Klett-Platz)
Hauptbahnhof
3 Schloßgarten Schloss Museum FRIEDRICHSTRASSE Staatsgalerie WILLY-BRANDT-STRAßE
4 Staatsgalerie Solitude KEPLERSTRASSE KRONENSTRASSE SCHILLERSTRASSE
5 Altes Schloß LAUTENSCHLAGERSTR. Schlossgarten Mercedes-Benz
6 Schillerplatz HOLZGARTENSTRASSE Keplerstr. Museum
7 Stiftskirche (Friedrichsbau) KÖNIGSTRASSE Staats-
theater
Hl. Kreuz BOLZSTRASSE Staatsgalerie
8 Hegel­Haus Liederhalle Königsbau Kunstmuseum
SCHLOSSSTRASSE KONRAD - ADENAUER - STRASSE
THEODOR - HEUSS - STRASSE
Liederhalle KIENESTRASSE SCHLOSS- URBANSTRASSE
PLATZ
BERLINER- Hospitalkirche Neues
PLATZ Fruchtkasten Schloss
Hohe GYMNASIUMSTRASSE Stadtmitte Schlossplatz
Straße SCHILLER- Altes Schloss Wilhelms-
HOSPITALSTR. Stiftskirche Charlotten-
PLATZ
palais
OLGA- STRASSE
CALWER STR. KRONPRINZSTRASSE Hl. Kreuz Markt- UHLANDSTR.
platz
halle
DOROTHEENSTR.
FRITZ-ELSAS-STRASSE
PLATZ
Stadtmitte LANGE STRASSE MARKT- STRASSE
(Rotebühlplatz) ROSENSTR.
EBERHA RDSTRASSE
Flughafen
0 metres 300 Hegel-Haus HAUPTSTÄTTER STRASSE CHARLOTTEN-
SINDELFINGEN 7 km (4 miles)
0 yards 300 TO RSTRASSE Leonhards- Fernsehturm
kirche
Rathaus
For additional map symbols see back flap
312-313_EW_Germany.indd 313 09/10/17 1:00 pm

314  SOUTHERN GERM AN Y STUT T GAR T  315


E Linden-Museum/ Staatl. works by Mies van der Rohe (Am the appearance of hovering in Johannes Kepler (1571–1630)
Museum für Völkerkunde Weißenhof 14–29), Le Corbusier space. More than 80 cars are on
Hegelplatz 1. Tel (0711) 2 02 23. (Rathe naustraße 1–3), Peter display, ranging from the Lohner- This outstanding astronomer and
Open 10am–5pm Tue–Sat, 10am– Behrens (Hölzelweg 3–5) and Porsche, the world’s first hybrid mathematician was born in Weil der
6pm Sun. & ∑ lindenmuseum.de Hans Scharoun (Hölzelweg 1). automobile built in 1900, to the Stadt. He studied theology in Tübingen,
The Linden Museum is one of latest generation of the Porsche where he encountered the work of
Germany’s finest ethnology P Liederhalle 911. There are also historical Nicolaus Copernicus, becoming a
museums. It was founded by Berliner Platz 1. archives, an open workshop, a fervent advocate of his theory. Forced
Count Karl von Linden, who was A must for all lovers of modern restaurant and café. to flee in 1600, Kepler went to Prague
also its director from 1889 until architecture, Liederhalle, in the where he worked with Tycho Brahe.
Many years of research led him to
1910. The museum contains centre of Stuttgart, is a success- P Markthalle formulate three laws of planetary
many fascinating ful synthesis of tradition Dorotheenstraße 4. Open 7:30am– motion. Kepler is also the inventor of
exhibits from all over and modernism. Built 6:30pm Mon–Fri, 7am–5pm Sat. the twin-lens telescope.
the world, including in 1955–56 by Adolf Stuttgart’s market hall, built
figures from the Abel and Rolf Some of the models on display in the in 1912–14 in Art Nouveau
Indonesian theatre Gutbrod, this Mercedes-Benz Museum style on the site of an earlier
of shadows, fine cultural and veg etable market, is one of P Bad Cannstatt (9 miles) southwest, it is worth
a Tibetan sand congress centre, Benz’s three-wheeled the finest in Europe. Built as Once an independent health visiting the Romanesque
mandala, a with three concert automobile from 1886. Also a food exchange, it has magni- resort, Bad Cannstatt is now Church of St Martin Canons,
6th–8th-century mask halls clustered around on display is a hand-made ficent frescoes. Today it still a district of Stuttgart. Set in a which was founded in 1083.
from Peru in South an irregular hall, is limousine that was built in the sells fresh fruit and vegetables beautiful park, it has a late- While you are there, take a stroll
America and a full-size still impressive today. 1930s for the Emperor of Japan to the general public, and also Gothic parish hall-church, a along Lange Straße to the old
reproduction of an Peruvian mask in and the first “Popemobile”, which houses a small restaurant Neo-Classical town hall and a town hall, which dates from
Islamic bazaar. the Linden-Museum E Mercedes- was built for Pope Paul VI. and café. Kursaal (spa-house), built in 1478 and is joined with the Salt
Benz Museum Another interesting exhibit is 1825–42. One of its attractions is House (1592). The two buildings,
P Weißenhofsiedlung Mercedesstraße 100. Tel (0711) 173 the famous 1950s racing car, + Schloß Solitude the Neo-Classical Schloß both half-timbered in their
Weissenhofmuseum im Haus Le 00 00. Open 9am–6pm Tue–Sun. Silberpfeil (Silver Arrow), as well Solitude 1. Tel (0711) 69 66 99. Rosenstein, built in 1824–29 at upper sections, now house the
Corbusier, Am Weißenhof 20. Closed public holidays. as models that were built for Open Apr–Oct: 10am–noon, 1:30– the request of King Wilhelm I, town museum.
Tel (0711) 2 57 91 87. Open 11am– To the east of the town centre, attempts on world speed 5pm Tue–Sat, 10am–5pm Sun; Nov– based on amended designs by A little further to the west, Weil
6pm Tue–Fri, 10am–6pm Sat & Sun. in the Obertürkheim district, is records. Also on display are Mar: 1:30–4pm Tue–Sat, 10am–4pm John Papworth. The King was der Stadt is the birthplace of the
Architektur-Galerie: Tel (0711) 257 the famous Mercedes-Benz scores of the latest models that Sun. 8 obligatory. & garden free. also the initiator of the beautiful astronomer Johannes Kepler and
14 34. Open 2–6pm Tue–Sat, noon– Museum. Its splendid collection have been produced by the This exquisite small palace, “Wilhelm’s complex”. This the reformer Johannes Brenz. The
5pm Sun. ∑ weissenhof.de illustrates the development company. The visitor can also standing on the slopes of a hill, includes a Moorish-style villa town’s late-Gothic church of St
A building exhibition held in of motorcar production, learn the history of Daimler-Benz was built for Prince Karl Eugene located in a symmetrically laid- Peter and St Paul was completed
1927 in Stuttgart had housing as from the earliest models to AG, which was created by the in 1763–67. The Prince not only out park, with many Oriental- in 1492 by Aberlin Jörg. Inside
its main theme. It left behind an today’s state-of-the-art, merger in 1926 of Daimler- commissioned the residence, but style pavilions and other is a beautiful Renaissance
estate that still exists today, computerized products. Set Motoren-Gesellschaft and Benz also took an active part in its decorative elements. sacrarium, dating from 1611.
although it was badly bombed up to celebrate the centenary & Cie., Rhein. The company’s design, which is the work of Completed in the 1840s, its The Marktplatz, with a statue
during World War II. Most of the of their inventions, the museum subsequent 1999 merger with Pierre Louis Philippe de la main designer was Karl Ludwig of Kepler at its centre, has a
houses represent functionalism, features over 70 historic Chrysler created one of the Guêpière, who introduced the Wilhelm von Zanth. The park Renaissance town hall (1582).
which was being promoted at vehicles, all in immaculate world’s largest car manufacturing Louis XVI-style to Germany. Many has now been transformed into Nearby, at Keplergasse 2, stands
the time by the Bauhaus. The condition. The collection concerns, Daimler-Chrysler. consider this palace to be a botanical-zoological garden. the house in which the famous
estate, which was to serve as an includes the world’s two oldest his masterpiece. astronomer was born and which
example to others, has some automobiles, Gottlieb Daimler’s P Fernsehturm Following its full restoration Environs now houses a small museum,
interesting houses, including horseless carriage and Carl Jahnsstraße 120. Tel (0711) 232 in 1990, and the provision of 45 Stuttgart provides a convenient the Kepler-Museum.
597. Open 10am–11pm Mon–Thu, residential studio apartments, base for exploring the surroun- Another place worthy of a visit
9am–11pm Fri–Sun. the palace now serves art dings. In Sindelfingen, 15 km is Waiblingen, 10 km (6 miles) to
∑ fernsehturm-stuttgart.de students on scholarships from the northeast of Stuttgart. It
Built between 1954 and 1956 this all over the world. A 15-km features a Romanesque church,
television tower was the world’s (9-mile) long, straight road the vaults of which are decorated
first to be built entirely from ferro- connects Schloß Solitude with some splendid wall
concrete. It is 217 m (712 ft) high with Ludwigsburg. paintings dating from 1515.
and stands on a wooded hilltop,
Hoher Bopser. Its observation
platform provides splendid views
over Schwäbische Alb, Schwarz-
wald and, on a clear day, the Alps.

E Porsche-Museum
Porscheplatz 1. Tel (01805) 356 911.
Open 9am–6pm Tue–Sun.
The exhibition area is made up
of a steel structure resting on just
House designed by Le Corbusier in Weißenhofsiedlung three concrete cores, giving it The façade of the Schloß Solitude, in the hills to the west of Stuttgart’s centre
For hotels and restaurants in this area see pp497–8 and pp522–4


314-315_EW_Germany.indd 314 09/10/17 1:00 pm 314-315_EW_Germany.indd 315 09/10/17 1:00 pm
Eyewitness Travel LAYERS PRINTED:
Catalogue template “UK” LAYER
(Source v2.2)
Date 15th January 2013
Size 125mm x 217mm

STUT T GAR T  315


the appearance of hovering in Johannes Kepler (1571–1630)
space. More than 80 cars are on
display, ranging from the Lohner- This outstanding astronomer and
Porsche, the world’s first hybrid mathematician was born in Weil der
automobile built in 1900, to the Stadt. He studied theology in Tübingen,
latest generation of the Porsche where he encountered the work of
911. There are also historical Nicolaus Copernicus, becoming a
archives, an open workshop, a fervent advocate of his theory. Forced
restaurant and café. to flee in 1600, Kepler went to Prague
where he worked with Tycho Brahe.
Many years of research led him to
P Markthalle formulate three laws of planetary
Dorotheenstraße 4. Open 7:30am– motion. Kepler is also the inventor of
6:30pm Mon–Fri, 7am–5pm Sat. the twin-lens telescope.
Stuttgart’s market hall, built
in 1912–14 in Art Nouveau
style on the site of an earlier
veg etable market, is one of P Bad Cannstatt (9 miles) southwest, it is worth
the finest in Europe. Built as Once an independent health visiting the Romanesque
a food exchange, it has magni- resort, Bad Cannstatt is now Church of St Martin Canons,
ficent frescoes. Today it still a district of Stuttgart. Set in a which was founded in 1083.
sells fresh fruit and vegetables beautiful park, it has a late- While you are there, take a stroll
to the general public, and also Gothic parish hall-church, a along Lange Straße to the old
houses a small restaurant Neo-Classical town hall and a town hall, which dates from
and café. Kursaal (spa-house), built in 1478 and is joined with the Salt
1825–42. One of its attractions is House (1592). The two buildings,
+ Schloß Solitude the Neo-Classical Schloß both half-timbered in their
Solitude 1. Tel (0711) 69 66 99. Rosenstein, built in 1824–29 at upper sections, now house the
Open Apr–Oct: 10am–noon, 1:30– the request of King Wilhelm I, town museum.
5pm Tue–Sat, 10am–5pm Sun; Nov– based on amended designs by A little further to the west, Weil
Mar: 1:30–4pm Tue–Sat, 10am–4pm John Papworth. The King was der Stadt is the birthplace of the
Sun. 8 obligatory. & garden free. also the initiator of the beautiful astronomer Johannes Kepler and
This exquisite small palace, “Wilhelm’s complex”. This the reformer Johannes Brenz. The
standing on the slopes of a hill, includes a Moorish-style villa town’s late-Gothic church of St
was built for Prince Karl Eugene located in a symmetrically laid- Peter and St Paul was completed
in 1763–67. The Prince not only out park, with many Oriental- in 1492 by Aberlin Jörg. Inside
commissioned the residence, but style pavilions and other is a beautiful Renaissance
also took an active part in its decorative elements. sacrarium, dating from 1611.
design, which is the work of Completed in the 1840s, its The Marktplatz, with a statue
Pierre Louis Philippe de la main designer was Karl Ludwig of Kepler at its centre, has a
Guêpière, who introduced the Wilhelm von Zanth. The park Renaissance town hall (1582).
Louis XVI-style to Germany. Many has now been transformed into Nearby, at Keplergasse 2, stands
consider this palace to be a botanical-zoological garden. the house in which the famous
his masterpiece. astronomer was born and which
Following its full restoration Environs now houses a small museum,
in 1990, and the provision of 45 Stuttgart provides a convenient the Kepler-Museum.
residential studio apartments, base for exploring the surroun- Another place worthy of a visit
the palace now serves art dings. In Sindelfingen, 15 km is Waiblingen, 10 km (6 miles) to
students on scholarships from the northeast of Stuttgart. It
all over the world. A 15-km features a Romanesque church,
(9-mile) long, straight road the vaults of which are decorated
connects Schloß Solitude with some splendid wall
with Ludwigsburg. paintings dating from 1515.











The façade of the Schloß Solitude, in the hills to the west of Stuttgart’s centre




314-315_EW_Germany.indd 315 09/10/17 1:00 pm

316  SOUTHERN GERM AN Y STUT T GAR T  317

Staatsgalerie . Iphigenie Spring Fields (1887) VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
(1871) One of the leading members
The Staatsgalerie grew from the museum Anselm Feuerbach’s of the French Impressionist Konrad-Adenauer-Straße 30–32.
of fine arts founded in 1843 by King painting was movement, Claude Monet Tel (0711) 47 04 00.
was unsurpassed in his
inspired by a play
Open 10am–6pm Tue, Wed, Fri–
Wilhelm I and containing the king’s by Goethe, rendition of iridescent light. Sun, 10am–8pm Thu. &
private collection. Now it ranks among Iphigenie auf Tauris. ∑ staatsgalerie.de
the finest of German galleries. As well
as its own magnificent collection of old
masters and modern artists, the gallery
has an extensive collection of graphics.
In 1984 the art gallery acquired an Mother and Child (1905)
extension designed by James Stirling. This painting by Pablo Picasso
represents his “pink period”,
which preceded the famous
Cubist experiments of this great
Spanish artist.
Entrance to Alte
Staatsgalerie








Crossing of the Rhine near Rhenen (1642)
The Dutch painter Jan van Goyen became
famous for his evocative landscapes, which were
often executed in uniform tones of lead-grey or
brown-green.






Female Nude Reclining on a
White Pillow (1917)
Amadeo Modigliani became
famous for his idiosyncratic
portraits and female nudes.


First
floor
. St Paul in Prison (1627) Entrance to Neue
In this, one of his earliest works, Staatsgalerie The Mourning of
Rembrandt depicted the Apostle Paul Christ (around 1490)
awaiting death in a humble cell. This subtle depiction
Bathsheba at her Toilet of Christ is the work
(around 1485) of the Venetian artist
Key In this painting, which is a Giovanni Bellini.
fragment of a lost triptych
14th–19th-century art
illustrating Justice, Hans
19th-century art Memling uses the Old
20th-century art Testament story of Gallery Guide
Bathsheba to exemplify Permanent exhibitions are located over the first floor of
Contemporary art
the abuse of power, the two buildings. In the Alte Staatsgalerie are works by
Temporary exhibitions intervention by God and Ground floor the old masters and from the 19th-century. The Neue
Non-exhibition rooms the reformation of a sinner. Staatsgalerie holds 20th-century art.
For hotels and restaurants in this area see pp497–8 and pp522–4

316-317_EW_Germany.indd 316 09/10/17 1:00 pm 316-317_EW_Germany.indd 317 09/10/17 1:00 pm
Eyewitness Travel LAYERS PRINTED:
Starsight template “UK” LAYER
(Source v2.5)
Date 6th February2013
Size 125mm x 217mm

STUT T GAR T  317


Spring Fields (1887) VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
One of the leading members
of the French Impressionist Konrad-Adenauer-Straße 30–32.
movement, Claude Monet Tel (0711) 47 04 00.
was unsurpassed in his Open 10am–6pm Tue, Wed, Fri–
rendition of iridescent light. Sun, 10am–8pm Thu. &
∑ staatsgalerie.de




Mother and Child (1905)
This painting by Pablo Picasso
represents his “pink period”,
which preceded the famous
Cubist experiments of this great
Spanish artist.























Female Nude Reclining on a
White Pillow (1917)
Amadeo Modigliani became
famous for his idiosyncratic
portraits and female nudes.


First
floor

The Mourning of
Christ (around 1490)
This subtle depiction
of Christ is the work
of the Venetian artist
Giovanni Bellini.

Gallery Guide
Permanent exhibitions are located over the first floor of
the two buildings. In the Alte Staatsgalerie are works by
Ground floor the old masters and from the 19th-century. The Neue
Staatsgalerie holds 20th-century art.




316-317_EW_Germany.indd 317 09/10/17 1:00 pm

318  SOUTHERN GERM AN Y BADEN-W Ü R T TEMBERG  319

a Schwäbische Alb Swabian Jura VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
Landscape
The mountain range of Schwäbische Alb (the The gentle hills and Practical Information
Swabian Jura) extends like an arc, 220 km (137 miles) enchanting villages n Schwäbische Alb
attract hikers and
long and 40 km (25 miles) wide, from the area around tourists from all over Tourismusverband, Bismarck
Straße 21, Bad Urach (07125-93
Tuttlingen and Sigmaringen, in southwest Germany, the world. 93 00). ∑ schwaebischealb.de
to Nördlinger Ries, at the border between the federal
counties of Baden-Württemberg and Bavaria. The
highest peak in the range is Lemberg (1,015 m/ Hechingen
3,330 ft). Beech woods and scented juniper shrubs On the outskirts of Hechingen, the
dominate the mellow landscape, whose whole remains of a 1st–3rd-century AD Roman
system of interconnected stalagmitic caves was villa are open to the public.
carved from the sedimentary limestone rocks.
Böblingen Böblingen
Wendlingen Wendlingen
Haigerloch Kirchheim Kirchheim
In the vaults of this castle
is a vast bunker that was
used as an atomic research Nürtingen Nürtingen
laboratory towards the HerrenbergHerrenberg
end of World War II.
J J
Tübingen Tübingen BeurenBeuren Hohenneuffen
N e c k a r
J J N e c k a r Hohenneuffen Hohenneuffen A massive castle dominates the
tiny town of Neuffen. It is the most
Rottenburg Rottenburg Reutlingen Reutlingen Bad Urach Bad Urach impressive ruin in the Swabian Jura.
J J
Lichtenstein Lichtenstein
Burg Lichtenstein Burg Lichtenstein MünsingenMünsingen
J J Mössingen Mössingen JJ
J J
J J J J
Haigerloch Haigerloch Hechingen Hechingen
Burg Burg
Hohenzollern Hohenzollern

Burladingen Burladingen B B
Balingen Balingen L L
A A

. Burg Hohenzollern E E
The ancestral seat of the Hohenzollern Albstadt Albstadt H H
family was remodelled in 1850–67. Only C C
the 15th-century St Michaelkapelle S S
survives from the original fortress. B B I I
J J Ä Ä Riedlingen Riedlingen Burg Lichtenstein
W W This romantic castle was
. Beuron H H immortalized in a novel
Beuron’s magnificent C C by Wilhelm Hauff.
D o n a u
Benedictine Abbey was D o n a u S S
founded in the 11th century. SigmaringenSigmaringen
Its subsequent remodelling JJ
resulted in a Baroque structure, J J
which survives to this day.
Key MesskirchMesskirch
Motorway . Sigmaringen
Main road The town’s skyline is dominated
by the castle, which was
Secondary road reconstructed following a fire in
River 0 km 5 1893. Only the towers of the
Viewpoint 0 miles 5 medieval fortress remain.
For hotels and restaurants in this area see pp497–8 and pp522–4


318-319_EW_Germany.indd 318 09/10/17 1:00 pm 318-319_EW_Germany.indd 319 09/10/17 1:00 pm
Eyewitness Travel LAYERS PRINTED:
Starsight template “UK” LAYER
(Source v2.5)
Date 6th February2013
Size 125mm x 217mm

BADEN-W Ü R T TEMBERG  319


Swabian Jura VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
Landscape
The gentle hills and Practical Information
enchanting villages n Schwäbische Alb
attract hikers and Tourismusverband, Bismarck
tourists from all over Straße 21, Bad Urach (07125-93
the world. 93 00). ∑ schwaebischealb.de







Böblingen
Wendlingen
Kirchheim
Nürtingen
Herrenberg

J
Tübingen Beuren Hohenneuffen
J N e c k a r Hohenneuffen A massive castle dominates the
tiny town of Neuffen. It is the most
Rottenburg Reutlingen Bad Urach impressive ruin in the Swabian Jura.
J
Lichtenstein
Burg Lichtenstein Münsingen
J Mössingen J
J
J J
Haigerloch Hechingen
Burg
Hohenzollern

Burladingen B
Balingen L
A

E
Albstadt H
C
S
I
B
J Ä Riedlingen Burg Lichtenstein
W This romantic castle was
H immortalized in a novel
C by Wilhelm Hauff.
D o n a u S
Sigmaringen
J
J
Messkirch
. Sigmaringen
The town’s skyline is dominated
by the castle, which was
reconstructed following a fire in
0 km 5
1893. Only the towers of the
0 miles 5 medieval fortress remain.



318-319_EW_Germany.indd 319 09/10/17 1:00 pm

320  SOUTHERN GERM AN Y BADEN-W Ü R T TEMBERG  321

s Tübingen is where Hermann Hesse once d Rottweil
served as an apprentice
Road map C6. * 85,000. £ Road map C7. * 24,000. £
n An der Neckarbrücke 1 (07071- bookseller. On the banks of n Hauptstraße 21 (0741-49 42 80).
913 60). ( Mon, Wed, Fri. the Neckar stands the _ Fasnet (last Mon of Carnival),
∑ tuebingen.info.de Hölderlinturm, in which the Jazzfest (May), Klassikfestival (Jun),
German poet Hölderlin lived Ferienzauber (Aug). ∑ rottweil.de
Along with Heidelberg and from 1807 until his death. Not
Freiburg im Breisgau, Tübingen far from here stands the large Situated on the banks of the
is the home of one of southern building of the Alte Burse, which river Neckar, Rottweil is one
Germany’s three most famous was built in 1478–80 and later of the oldest towns in Baden-
universities. It was founded remodelled in 1803–1805. The Württemberg. It grew from a
in 1477 by Count Eberhard building was once used to Roman settlement that was
the Bearded. accommodate students and as a established on a hilltop here in
The first records of the fortress lecture hall. Martin Luther’s close AD 73. In 1234 Rottweil was
that later gave rise to a settle- associate, Philipp Melanchthon, granted town status and, by
ment on this site date from lectured here between 1514 1401, it had become a free
1078. By around 1231, the settle- Tübingen’s Gothic-Renaissance town hall and 1518. town of the Holy Roman
ment had become a town. In The Protestant seminary in Empire. Between 1463 and
1342, Tübingen passed to the town hall, built in 1435 and Neckarhalde was founded by 1802 it belonged to the Swiss
counts of Württemberg, having extended in the 16th century. Prince Ulrich in 1536. Its Confederation, which was
previously belonged to the It features an astro nomical graduates include the poets founded in 1291 by the cantons
counts Palatinate. clock, which dates from 1511. Hölderlin, Mörike and Schiller of Uri, Schwyz and Unterwalden.
Schloß Hohentübingen, Sgraffiti on the western façade and the philospohers Hegel In 1802, the town passed
which towers over the town, dates from 1876; those on the and Schelling. into the rule of the dukes
has a magnificent gateway elevations facing Haaggasse } The Kunsthalle is famous of Württemberg.
(Unteres Tor). Built in 1606, it is date from the 16th century. throughout Germany not only Rottweil has many historic
richly adorned with the coat of The collegiate church of St for its temporary exhibitions, remains, including sections of
arms of the House of George (Stiftskirche St Georg), but also for its fine collection the fortified city walls, with
Württemberg. The walled castle built in 1440–1529, is a triple- of modern art. Other several well-preserved turrets.
complex, with its central nave hall with rows of side popular attractions in Tübingen The parish church of St Cross
courtyard and long approach, chapels, galleries and a single include the Stadtmuseum, (Heilig-Kreuz-Münster), built in Fountain and “Black Gate” in Rottweil’s main street, Hauptstraße
was built in stages during tower. Of particular note are the which is devoted to the town’s 1230–1534, has a triple-nave
1507–15, 1534–42 and 1606. ducal tombs, the late-Gothic history, and the Auto- und basilica with stellar and network prehistoric remains. The (1755). Roman baths dating
A walk along the Burgsteige reading-room and the stained- Spielzeug museum, which vaults. Late-Gothic altars, inclu- Dominikanermuseum has from the 2nd century AD have
takes you to the picturesque glass windows of the choir, combines cars and toys. ding St Bartholomew’s, by an interesting exhibition of been excavated at the corner
old town. Here, at the centre of dating from 1475. Magnificent Michael Wolgemut and a crucifix Roman relics. These include the of what is now the cemetery.
Markt platz, is the Neptune stalls, adorned with carved E Museum Schloss attributed to Veit Stoß, are famous Orpheus mosaic, Rottweil is famous for
Fountain, the work of Heinrich figures of the Prophets, date Hohentübingen among its features. dating from the 2nd century its carnival processions
Schickhard, dating from 1617. from the late 15th century. Burgsteige 11. Tel (07071) 297 73 84. To the south of the church AD, and an outstanding (Fasnet), a tradition that
In the western corner of the The bookstore in Holzmarkt Open 10am–5pm Wed & Fri–Sun, stands the late-Gothic town collection of late-Gothic goes back to the Middle
square is a lovely Renaissance (Buchhandlung Heckenhauer) 10am–7pm Thu. & hall (1521). On the opposite side sculpture, including the Ages. A collection of
R Stiftskirche St Georg of the street, at Hauptstraße 20, statue of St Barbara by carnival costumes can be
Tel (07071) 525 83. Open 9am–4pm the Stadtmuseum has an out- Multscher (around 1450). seen in the Stadtmuseum.
daily. & standing collection of The Hauptstraße is lined The Puppen- und
with burghers’ houses, Spielzeugmuseum is
P Hölderlinturm
Bursagasse 6. Tel (07071) 254 245. displaying characteristic home to a fine collection
Open 10am–noon, 3–5pm Tue–Fri, oriel windows. One of the of historic dolls and
2– 5pm Sat, Sun & public hols. & most beautiful historic Kapellenturm, toys which is perfect
buildings in Rottweil is Rottweil for keeping the
E Kunsthalle the Kapellenkirche, built in children entertained.
Philosophenweg 76. Tel (07071) 969 1330–1478. Its 70-metre (230-ft)
10. Closed for renovations; open for tower and three portals are E Stadtmuseum
exhibitions only. ∑ kunsthalle- adorned with carved Hauptstraße 20. Tel (0741) 494
tuebingen.de
ornaments reminiscent of the 330. Open 2–4pm Tue– Sun. &
E Statdtmuseum French Gothic style. The E Dominikanermuseum
Kornhausstraße 10. Tel (07071) 204 17 Baroque interior features Kriegsdamm 4. Tel (0741) 7662.
11 or 94 54 60. Open 11am–5pm frescoes by Josef Fiertmayer, Open 10am–5pm Tue–Sun.
Tue–Sun. & who was a pupil of renowned Closed public holidays. &
E Auto-und Spielzeug museum painter and architect Cosmas E Puppen- und
Brunnenstraße 18. Tel (07071) 92 90 Damian Asam. The Gothic Spielzeugmuseum
90. Open 10am–noon, 2–5pm Wed– Dominican church, built in Hauptstraße 49. Tel (0741) 942 21 77.
Fri, 10am–5pm Sat, Sun & public hols. 1266–82 and remodelled in the Open 10am–12:30pm, 2pm–5:30pm
Closed 22–24 & 31 Dec, 12 & 13 Jan. Crucifixion attributed to Veit Stoss in 18th century, has some frescoes Wed–Fri, 10am–12:30pm Sat, 2–5pm
Unteres Tor leading to Schloß Hohentübingen & ∑ boxenstop-tuebingen.de Heilig-Kreuz-Münster, Rottweil by Joseph Wannenmacher Sun. &
For hotels and restaurants in this area see pp497–8 and pp522–4


320-321_EW_Germany.indd 320 09/10/17 1:00 pm 320-321_EW_Germany.indd 321 09/10/17 1:00 pm
Eyewitness Travel LAYERS PRINTED:
Catalogue template “UK” LAYER
(Source v2.2)
Date 15th January 2013
Size 125mm x 217mm

BADEN-W Ü R T TEMBERG  321

d Rottweil
Road map C7. * 24,000. £
n Hauptstraße 21 (0741-49 42 80).
_ Fasnet (last Mon of Carnival),
Jazzfest (May), Klassikfestival (Jun),
Ferienzauber (Aug). ∑ rottweil.de
Situated on the banks of the
river Neckar, Rottweil is one
of the oldest towns in Baden-
Württemberg. It grew from a
Roman settlement that was
established on a hilltop here in
AD 73. In 1234 Rottweil was
granted town status and, by
1401, it had become a free
town of the Holy Roman
Empire. Between 1463 and
1802 it belonged to the Swiss
Confederation, which was
founded in 1291 by the cantons
of Uri, Schwyz and Unterwalden.
In 1802, the town passed
into the rule of the dukes
of Württemberg.
Rottweil has many historic
remains, including sections of
the fortified city walls, with
several well-preserved turrets.
The parish church of St Cross
(Heilig-Kreuz-Münster), built in Fountain and “Black Gate” in Rottweil’s main street, Hauptstraße
1230–1534, has a triple-nave
basilica with stellar and network prehistoric remains. The (1755). Roman baths dating
vaults. Late-Gothic altars, inclu- Dominikanermuseum has from the 2nd century AD have
ding St Bartholomew’s, by an interesting exhibition of been excavated at the corner
Michael Wolgemut and a crucifix Roman relics. These include the of what is now the cemetery.
attributed to Veit Stoß, are famous Orpheus mosaic, Rottweil is famous for
among its features. dating from the 2nd century its carnival processions
To the south of the church AD, and an outstanding (Fasnet), a tradition that
stands the late-Gothic town collection of late-Gothic goes back to the Middle
hall (1521). On the opposite side sculpture, including the Ages. A collection of
of the street, at Hauptstraße 20, statue of St Barbara by carnival costumes can be
the Stadtmuseum has an out- Multscher (around 1450). seen in the Stadtmuseum.
standing collection of The Hauptstraße is lined The Puppen- und
with burghers’ houses, Spielzeugmuseum is
displaying characteristic home to a fine collection
oriel windows. One of the of historic dolls and
most beautiful historic Kapellenturm, toys which is perfect
buildings in Rottweil is Rottweil for keeping the
the Kapellenkirche, built in children entertained.
1330–1478. Its 70-metre (230-ft)
tower and three portals are E Stadtmuseum
adorned with carved Hauptstraße 20. Tel (0741) 494
ornaments reminiscent of the 330. Open 2–4pm Tue– Sun. &
French Gothic style. The E Dominikanermuseum
Baroque interior features Kriegsdamm 4. Tel (0741) 7662.
frescoes by Josef Fiertmayer, Open 10am–5pm Tue–Sun.
who was a pupil of renowned Closed public holidays. &
painter and architect Cosmas E Puppen- und
Damian Asam. The Gothic Spielzeugmuseum
Dominican church, built in Hauptstraße 49. Tel (0741) 942 21 77.
1266–82 and remodelled in the Open 10am–12:30pm, 2pm–5:30pm
Crucifixion attributed to Veit Stoss in 18th century, has some frescoes Wed–Fri, 10am–12:30pm Sat, 2–5pm
Heilig-Kreuz-Münster, Rottweil by Joseph Wannenmacher Sun. &




320-321_EW_Germany.indd 321 09/10/17 1:00 pm

322  SOUTHERN GERM AN Y BADEN-W Ü R T TEMBERG  323


f Ulm Hans Multscher (1443),
the famous stalls with
Road map C6. * 115,000. £
n Münsterplatz 50 (0731-161 28 30. figures of philosophers,
_ Fischerstechen (every 4th year in poets, prophets and
Jul, next is 2021), Schwörmontag (3rd apostles carved by
Mon in Jul), Stadtfest (Jun). Jörg Syrlin the Elder,
∑ tourismus.ulm.de 15th-century stained-
glass windows, and the
Lying on the river Danube, Ulm font, by Jörg Syrlin
dates back to 854. It became a the Younger.
town in 1165 then, in 1274, a The town has many
free town of the Holy Roman fine historic buildings, Main altar by Hans Multscher in
Empire. During the 15th century including the Gothic- Ravensburg’s Liebfrauenkirche
Ulm was one of the richest Renaissance town hall,
towns in Europe but the Thirty which is decorated with brightly of Henry the Lion, the powerful
Years’ War put an end to its coloured frescoes and features Duke of Saxony and Bavaria,
rapid development. In 1810 an astronomical clock. Other born in 1129. The settlement Former Cistercian abbey complex in Salem, now a secular building
Ulm came under the rule of the features of Marktplatz include that sprang up at the foot of
Württemberg kings. The town is the Gothic fountain Fisch kasten the castle became a free h Weingarten of relicts that have been found relaxed to the extent that the
renowned as the (Fish Crate), dating imperial city in 1276. From 1395, Road map: C7. * 24,500. £ in graves dating from the abbey now has an interesting
birthplace of Albert from 1482, and the paper was produced here and, n Münsterplatz 1 (0751-40 52 32). Merovingian period. tabernacle (1500), stalls (1594)
Einstein. During Reichenauer Hof, during the 15th century, the _ Blutritt (day after Ascension). and early-Renaissance altars
World War II, most of which dates from town became one of the richest E Alamannenmuseum (dating from the 18th century).
the old town was 1370–1535. in Germany from its involvement The House of Welf founded Karlstraße 28. Tel (0751) 40 52 55. The new abbey buildings
destroyed during The Ulmer in the linen trade. a Benedictine abbey in Open 2–5pm Tue–Sun. & were built between 1700 and
bombing raids. Museum, which is Standing in Kirchstraße is the Weingarten in 1056. During the 1710 and constitute Schloß
The Münster is housed in a number 14th-century parish church of Romanesque period, around Salem. The buildings include
a true masterpiece of historic 16th- and Liebfrauenkirche, which retains 1190, the monks of the abbey j Salem some richly decorated abbot’s
of European Gothic 17th-century buildings, original 15th-century features, produced a chronicle of the Road map: C7. * 8,500. apartments and the extremely
architecture. A vast, has a collection of art including the main altar and House of Welfs, known as n Schloß Salem (07553-91 77 15). impressive Emperor’s room
five-nave basilica, its spanning a period some fine stained-glass windows. the Welfenchronik. (Kaisersaal), which was built
161-m (530-ft) high from the Middle Ages In Marienplatz stands the Ambitious plans, drawn up in The first Cistercian monks between 1708 and 1710.
west tower is the up to the present late-Gothic town hall (14th– the 18th century at the initiative arrived in Salmansweiler (now Since its secularization in
highest church day. The collection 15th century), with its lovely of Abbot Sebastian Hyller, known as Salem) in 1134. 1802, the abbey has been the
tower in the world. Gothic font in Ulm Cathedral includes the work Renaissance bay window. Also provided for an extension of Between 1299 and 1414 they private property of the Baden
The cathedral’s of local artists, such in Marienplatz is the Waaghaus the abbey and the construction built a church according to margraves who keep some of
construction, from 1377 until as Hans Multscher. The Museum (1498), which housed the of another vast complex of the rules of their order, which their art collection here. The
1545, was overseen by the der Brotkultur specializes in weigh-house and mint on the buildings. Two side courtyards espoused poverty and banned west wing houses a private
greatest builders of the German artifacts related to bread and ground floor, with a trading hall and four external courtyards, any decoration of the buildings. boarding school founded by
Gothic – Heinrich and Michael bread-making, including items upstairs, when Ravensburg was encircled with curved galleries The abbey is a triple-nave Kurt Hahn, who also founded
Parler, Urlich von Ensingen, depicting bread in art and engaged in coin production. with smaller pavilions, were basilica with transept and Gordonstoun in Scotland.
Hans Kun and Matthäus graphic designs. The watchtower (Blaserturm) planned to be grouped around straight-end choir. Its austere
Böblinger. The unfinished is crowned by a Renaissance the church. These were designed façade is relieved by blind + Schloß Salem
cathedral was extended in E Ulmer Museum octagon that has become the by Casper Moosbrugger, Franz windows, some of which have Tel (07553) 916 53. Open Apr–Oct:
1844–90, based on the original Marktplatz 9. Tel (0731) 161 43 30. symbol of the town. Another Beer, Donato Giuseppe Frisoni attractive traceries. In later years 9:30am–6pm Mon–Sat, 10:30am–6pm
medieval design. The interior Open 11am–5pm Tue–Sun, 11am– attractive building here is the and others, and built in 1715–24. the restraints of poverty were Sun. &
contains many outstanding 8pm Thu (during exhibitions). & Lederhaus, which dates from The church is reminiscent of
features, including the altar by E Museum der Brotkultur 1513–14. Near the town hall is the Basilica of St Peter’s in
Salzstadelgasse 10. Tel (0731) 699 55. the old 14th–15th century Rome. Although it is half the
Open 10am–5pm daily. & granary (Kornhaus). size of the latter, it is never-
∑ museum-brotkultur.de Marktstraße features many theless an immense structure.
old burgher houses. No. 59, the Inside are some magnificent
oldest house in town, dates ceiling frescoes by Cosmas
g Ravensburg from 1179. The neighbouring Damian Asam, while the
house was built in 1446. carved and inlaid choir stalls
Road map: C7. * 45,000. £ The tall white cylindrical tower
n Kirchstraße 16 (0751-828 00). are the work of Joseph Anton
_ Fasnet (Feb), Rutenfest (Jul). that can be seen from here is Feuchtmayer. Also of note is the
∑ ravensburg.de known as the “sack of flour” organ by Josef Gabler. In an
(Mehlsack). It was erected in ingenious design, the organ
The first historic records of the the 16th century. A magnificent pipes are concealed within a
“Ravespurc” fortress date from view of the town can be series of towers to avoid
1088, when it was one of the obtained from Veitsburg, obscuring the windows of the
Astronomical clock on Ulm’s seats of the Welf family. It is which occupies the site of the façade. The Alamannenmuseum
Gothic-Renaissance town hall believed to be the birthplace original Welf castle. has a fascinating exhibition Ceiling fresco in Weingarten’s abbey
For hotels and restaurants in this area see pp497–8 and pp522–4


322-323_EW_Germany.indd 322 09/10/17 1:00 pm 322-323_EW_Germany.indd 323 09/10/17 1:00 pm
Eyewitness Travel LAYERS PRINTED:
Catalogue template “UK” LAYER
(Source v2.2)
Date 15th January 2013
Size 125mm x 217mm

BADEN-W Ü R T TEMBERG  323



















Former Cistercian abbey complex in Salem, now a secular building
h Weingarten of relicts that have been found relaxed to the extent that the
in graves dating from the abbey now has an interesting
Road map: C7. * 24,500. £
n Münsterplatz 1 (0751-40 52 32). Merovingian period. tabernacle (1500), stalls (1594)
_ Blutritt (day after Ascension). and early-Renaissance altars
E Alamannenmuseum (dating from the 18th century).
The House of Welf founded Karlstraße 28. Tel (0751) 40 52 55. The new abbey buildings
a Benedictine abbey in Open 2–5pm Tue–Sun. & were built between 1700 and
Weingarten in 1056. During the 1710 and constitute Schloß
Romanesque period, around Salem. The buildings include
1190, the monks of the abbey j Salem some richly decorated abbot’s
produced a chronicle of the Road map: C7. * 8,500. apartments and the extremely
House of Welfs, known as n Schloß Salem (07553-91 77 15). impressive Emperor’s room
the Welfenchronik. (Kaisersaal), which was built
Ambitious plans, drawn up in The first Cistercian monks between 1708 and 1710.
the 18th century at the initiative arrived in Salmansweiler (now Since its secularization in
of Abbot Sebastian Hyller, known as Salem) in 1134. 1802, the abbey has been the
provided for an extension of Between 1299 and 1414 they private property of the Baden
the abbey and the construction built a church according to margraves who keep some of
of another vast complex of the rules of their order, which their art collection here. The
buildings. Two side courtyards espoused poverty and banned west wing houses a private
and four external courtyards, any decoration of the buildings. boarding school founded by
encircled with curved galleries The abbey is a triple-nave Kurt Hahn, who also founded
with smaller pavilions, were basilica with transept and Gordonstoun in Scotland.
planned to be grouped around straight-end choir. Its austere
the church. These were designed façade is relieved by blind + Schloß Salem
by Casper Moosbrugger, Franz windows, some of which have Tel (07553) 916 53. Open Apr–Oct:
Beer, Donato Giuseppe Frisoni attractive traceries. In later years 9:30am–6pm Mon–Sat, 10:30am–6pm
and others, and built in 1715–24. the restraints of poverty were Sun. &
The church is reminiscent of
the Basilica of St Peter’s in
Rome. Although it is half the
size of the latter, it is never-
theless an immense structure.
Inside are some magnificent
ceiling frescoes by Cosmas
Damian Asam, while the
carved and inlaid choir stalls
are the work of Joseph Anton
Feuchtmayer. Also of note is the
organ by Josef Gabler. In an
ingenious design, the organ
pipes are concealed within a
series of towers to avoid
obscuring the windows of the
façade. The Alamannenmuseum
has a fascinating exhibition Ceiling fresco in Weingarten’s abbey




322-323_EW_Germany.indd 323 09/10/17 1:00 pm

324  SOUTHERN GERM AN Y BADEN-W Ü R T TEMBERG  325

k Bodensee Meersburg VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
The exquisite Baroque
Sometimes known as Lake Constance, the Bodensee town of Meersburg has two Practical Information
lies on the border of Germany, Switzerland and residences – the Baroque Road map 7 C. n Bahnhofplatz
Neues Schloß and the Altes
Austria. The area surrounding the lake is one of the Schloß. The latter is a 43, Konstanz (07531-13 30 32).
∑ konstanz-tourismus.de
most attractive in Germany, in terms of both natural 16th-century structure built Sea Life Centre: Hafenstraße 9,
beauty and cultural heritage. Towns and villages on top of a hill. It contains Konstanz. Tel (07531)-12 82 70.
around the shores feature countless reminders of within its walls an old Open Sep–Jun: 10am–5pm daily;
Carolingian palace.
past times and cultures. The best time for a visit is Jul & Aug: 10am–6pm daily. &
∑ visitsealife.com Museum
summer, when local fishermen stage colourful fairs Bodensee Reichenau: Ergat 1–3. Tel (07534)
and water sports are possible. The lake is 15 km (9 miles) across at its widest 99 93 21. Open Apr–Oct:
point and 63 km (39 miles) long. It lies at an 10:30am–4:30pm daily (Jul & Aug:
altitude of 395 m (1,295 ft) and reaches 252 m to 5:30pm); Nov–Mar: 2–5pm Sat,
(826 ft) in depth. Sun & hols. &

StockachStockach
LudwigshafenLudwigshafen




Reichenau SingenSingen ÜberlingenÜberlingen
The greatest attraction of Ü B E R L I N G E R S E E . Wasserburg
this island is the Benedictine RadolfzellRadolfzell This charming church, with a tower
abbey, which was famed crowned with an onion-shaped dome, is
Ü B E R L I N G E R S E E
during the era of Otto the one of the most frequently photographed
Great (10th century) for its GottmadingenGottmadingen Z E L L E R S E E sights in this region.
illuminated manuscripts. It MainauMainau
Z E L L E R S E E
has a beautiful Romanesque- MeersburgMeersburg
Gothic church and an ReichenauReichenau GERMANY Lindau
intoxicating herb garden. This island town has so many
KonstanzKonstanz historic buildings that the whole
U N T E R S E E area has been listed as a historic
U N T E R S E E
monument (see p288).
KreuzlingenKreuzlingen




B O D E N S E E E
RomanshornRomanshorn B O D E N S E WasserburgWasserburg
LindauLindau
. Mainau SWITZERLAND
Mainau is known as the “Island of Flowers”. The most beautiful displays ArbonArbon AUSTRIA
are in the park surrounding the Baroque palace, which was built in
1739–46. It is currently owned by the Lennart Bernadotte family. BregenzBregenz
KEY Key RorschachRorschach
Motorway
1 Friedrichshafen is best . Konstanz (Constance)
known for its Zeppelin-Museum. The largest town in the Major road
The first Zeppelin airships were region, its main attraction Minor road
tested here in 1900. is the magnificent River
2 Langenargen has an 11th-century Romanesque Ferry or catamaran route
enchanting, small Moorish-style cathedral. The vaults over International border 0 km 5
palace named Montfort. the central aisle were built 0 miles 5
between 1679 and 1683.
For hotels and restaurants in this area see pp497–8 and pp522–4


324-325_EW_Germany.indd 324 09/10/17 1:00 pm 324-325_EW_Germany.indd 325 09/10/17 1:00 pm
Eyewitness Travel LAYERS PRINTED:
Starsight template “UK” LAYER
(Source v2.5)
Date 6th February2013
Size 125mm x 217mm

BADEN-W Ü R T TEMBERG  325


Meersburg VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
The exquisite Baroque
town of Meersburg has two Practical Information
residences – the Baroque Road map 7 C. n Bahnhofplatz
Neues Schloß and the Altes 43, Konstanz (07531-13 30 32).
Schloß. The latter is a ∑ konstanz-tourismus.de
16th-century structure built Sea Life Centre: Hafenstraße 9,
on top of a hill. It contains Konstanz. Tel (07531)-12 82 70.
within its walls an old Open Sep–Jun: 10am–5pm daily;
Carolingian palace. Jul & Aug: 10am–6pm daily. &
∑ visitsealife.com Museum
Reichenau: Ergat 1–3. Tel (07534)
99 93 21. Open Apr–Oct:
10:30am–4:30pm daily (Jul & Aug:
to 5:30pm); Nov–Mar: 2–5pm Sat,
Sun & hols. &



Stockach
Ludwigshafen




Überlingen
Singen
. Wasserburg
This charming church, with a tower
Radolfzell crowned with an onion-shaped dome, is
Ü B E R L I N G E R S E E
one of the most frequently photographed
Gottmadingen Z E L L E R S E E sights in this region.
Mainau Meersburg
Reichenau GERMANY Lindau
This island town has so many
Konstanz historic buildings that the whole
U N T E R S E E area has been listed as a historic
monument (see p288).
Kreuzlingen






Romanshorn B O D E N S E E Wasserburg
Lindau
SWITZERLAND
Arbon AUSTRIA
Bregenz
Key Rorschach
Motorway
Major road
Minor road
River
Ferry or catamaran route
0 km 5
International border
0 miles 5




324-325_EW_Germany.indd 325 09/10/17 1:00 pm

326-327_EW_Germany.indd 326 09/10/17 1:00 pm 326-327_EW_Germany.indd 327 09/10/17 1:00 pm

326-327_EW_Germany.indd 327 09/10/17 1:00 pm

328  SOUTHERN GERM AN Y BADEN–W Ü R T TEMBERG  329

l Freiburg im Breisgau Haus zum Walfisch VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
The façade of the Whale
The dukes of Zähringen first established Freiburg Freiburg University House in Franziskanergasse, Practical Information
in 1120. The town, which later belonged to the Freiburg University occupies with its lovely bay window, Road map B7. * 197,000.
is a magnificent example of
n Rathausplatz 2–4 (0761-388
counts von Urach, became so rich over the years a Baroque post­Jesuit late-Gothic style. 18 80). _ Fasnet (end of
complex. In the main
that, in 1368, it bought its freedom and voluntarily entrance stands carnival), Frühlingsmesse (May),
placed itself under the protection of the this statue of the Internationales Zeltmusikfest
Habsburgs. Marshal Vauban fortified the town pensive Aristotle. Münsterplatz (Jun), Weintage (Jun), Weinkost
in the 17th century, when Freiburg briefly The picturesque square at the foot (Jun), Herbstmesse (Oct),
Umwelt-Film-Festival (Oct).
belonged to France. Since 1805 it has been of the cathedral, lined by houses ∑ freiburg.de
part of Baden. Situated between Kaiserstuhl of various periods, from Gothic to
Rococo, is still used for markets.
and Feldberg, it is a natural gateway to the Transport
southern Schwarzwald (Black Forest). £
This former Jesuit
church belongs to the
university complex.
Tourist
information
R A THA US– K A I S E R – J O S E P H – S T R A S S E
PL A TZ

0 metres 50 R A T H A U S G A S S E
0 yards 50
Railway
station




. Bächle
From the Middle Ages, fast-
flowing canals have been
B E R T O L D S T R A S S E
MÜNSTER– running along the streets,
PL A TZ draining excess surface
waters, and providing the
water needed to extinguish
Fischerau the frequent fires.
Fischerau and, par allel
to it, Gerberau are pictur­
S C H U S T E R S T R A S S E
esque streets in the old
town, running along the
Gewerbebach stream.
Key S A L Z S T R A S S E
Suggested route
BertoldsbrunnenBertoldsbrunnen
(Bertold’s fountain) stands (Bertold’s fountain) stands
at the intersection of at the intersection of
Bertholdstraße and Kaiser­ Bertholdstraße and Kaiser- Augustiner . Münster – the Main Altar
Joseph­Straße, known as “Kajo”.Joseph-Straße, known as “Kajo”. Museum The cathedral, which started around 1200 as
a Romanesque basilica, was completed by
1513 in the French Gothic style. Inside is the
Martinstor original main altar by Hans Baldung Grien.
St Martin’s Gate was part . Kaufhaus
of the 13th­century town Completed in 1520, with ground-floor arcades and richly
fortifications. Its present adorned gables, the Kaufhaus (literally buying house) was
appearance is the result of used by local merchants for meetings, conferences and
work carried out in 1900. lively festivities.
An example of the beautiful stained glass windows in Freiburg im Breisgau’s Münster For hotels and restaurants in this area see pp497–8 and pp522–4



328-329_EW_Germany.indd 328 09/10/17 1:00 pm 328-329_EW_Germany.indd 329 09/10/17 1:00 pm
Eyewitness Travel LAYERS PRINTED:
Starsight template “UK” LAYER
(Source v2.5)
Date 6th February2013
Size 125mm x 217mm

BADEN–W Ü R T TEMBERG  329


Haus zum Walfisch VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
The façade of the Whale
House in Franziskanergasse, Practical Information
with its lovely bay window, Road map B7. * 197,000.
is a magnificent example of n Rathausplatz 2–4 (0761-388
late-Gothic style. 18 80). _ Fasnet (end of
carnival), Frühlingsmesse (May),
Internationales Zeltmusikfest
(Jun), Weintage (Jun), Weinkost
Münsterplatz (Jun), Herbstmesse (Oct),
The picturesque square at the foot Umwelt-Film-Festival (Oct).
of the cathedral, lined by houses ∑ freiburg.de
of various periods, from Gothic to
Rococo, is still used for markets.
Transport
£

K A I S E R – J O S E P H – S T R A S S E

















. Bächle
From the Middle Ages, fast-
flowing canals have been
MÜNSTER– running along the streets,
PL A TZ draining excess surface
waters, and providing the
water needed to extinguish
the frequent fires.
S C H U S T E R S T R A S S E







Bertoldsbrunnen S A L Z S T R A S S E
(Bertold’s fountain) stands
at the intersection of
Bertholdstraße and Kaiser- Augustiner . Münster – the Main Altar
Joseph-Straße, known as “Kajo”. Museum The cathedral, which started around 1200 as
a Romanesque basilica, was completed by
1513 in the French Gothic style. Inside is the
original main altar by Hans Baldung Grien.
. Kaufhaus
Completed in 1520, with ground-floor arcades and richly
adorned gables, the Kaufhaus (literally buying house) was
used by local merchants for meetings, conferences and
lively festivities.
For hotels and restaurants in this area see pp497–8 and pp522–4


328-329_EW_Germany.indd 329 09/10/17 1:00 pm

330  SOUTHERN GERM AN Y BADEN-W Ü R T TEMBERG  331

z Schwarzwald (Black Forest) VISITORS’ CHECKLIST

Covered with tall fir trees and spruces, the Schwarzwald is one Friesenheim Friesenheim Practical Information
of Germany’s most picturesque regions. The area is famous Lahr Lahr Road map B7. n Wehratalstraße
19, Todtmoos (07674-906 00.
not just for its cuckoo clocks, Kirschwasser (schnaps) and ∑ todtmoos.de, schwarzwald-
Schwarzwälder Kirschtorte (Black Forest Gâteau); in the past, tourismus.info
Celts and later the Romans came to appreciate the therapeutic ( Offenburger Weinmarkt, Weih-
qualities of the local spring waters. (The sources of the rivers nachtsmarkt. _ Dog-sleigh races,
Todtmoos (Jan) and Bernau (Feb),
Donau and Neckar are here.) The area is also a paradise for Gutach Gutach Schloßkonzerte in Rastatt (Jul).
skiers, climbers, ramblers, hang-glider pilots and sailors. Herbolzheim Herbolzheim
R h e i n Gutach
R h e i n
. Staufen im In the open-air museum near the
E l z
Breisgau E l z J J small town of Gutach visitors can
The town is also known Emmendingen Emmendingen see the Schwarz wald’s oldest house
as Faust stadt: Dr Faustus, D D – the Vogtsbauernhof – which
who had resided here, J J TeningenTeningen L L dates from the 16th century.
D r e i s a m
died in 1539 – he is D r e i s a m A A
variously reputed to W W
have blown himself J J Z Z
up, to have been Denzlingen Denzlingen R R
strangled or to A A Furtwangen
Furtwangen
have had his Freiburg Freiburg W W
neck broken. im Breisgau im Breisgau
H H
C C . Furtwangen
S S B r e g The main attraction of Furtwangen is its clock museum
B r e g
(Uhrenmuseum), which houses a collection of more than
Bad Krozingen Bad Krozingen 8,000 varied chronometers.
Staufen im BreisgauStaufen im Breisgau Titisee- Titisee-
Neustadt Neustadt
Feldberg
Feldberg
TodtnauTodtnau
Müllheim Müllheim D D
C H W A R Z W A L
C H W A R Z W A L J J TodtmoosTodtmoos St BlasienSt Blasien
J J
S S Kandern Kandern
Hangloch-Wasserfall
This magnificent mountain
waterfall near Todtnau is one of the
W i e s e most beautiful in the Black Forest.
W i e s e
J J Wehr Wehr Waldshut-TiengenWaldshut-Tiengen
Lörrach Lörrach
J J
Rheinfelden Rheinfelden
BaselBasel
Todtnau 0 km 10

Todtnau is not only a sports centre and a base for
hikers and cyclists: it also has a fanstastic annual 0 miles 10
festival devoted entirely to Schwarzwälder KĘTRZYN KĘTRZYN
Kirschtorte (Black Forest Gateau).
Key
. St Blasien KÖNIGSEE KÖNIGSEE
In the beautiful health resort of Motorway
St Blasien is a Benedictine Abbey, Mitterbach Main road
Mitterbach
Todtmoos founded in the 9th century. Crowned
The heart of this resort is the Baroque pilgrimage with a vast dome, its church (1783) Secondary road
church, which dates from the 17th–18th centuries. is an excellent example of early River
Popular dog-sleigh races are held annually in the town. Neo-Classical style. 44 Viewpoint
For hotels and restaurants in this area see pp497–8 and pp522–4 REITER REITER
ALPE ALPE
330-331_EW_Germany.indd 330 09/10/17 12:49 pm 330-331_EW_Germany.indd 331 09/10/17 12:49 pm

BADEN-W Ü R T TEMBERG  331


VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
Friesenheim Practical Information
Lahr Road map B7. n Wehratalstraße
19, Todtmoos (07674-906 00.
∑ todtmoos.de, schwarzwald-
tourismus.info
( Offenburger Weinmarkt, Weih-
nachtsmarkt. _ Dog-sleigh races,
Gutach Todtmoos (Jan) and Bernau (Feb),
Schloßkonzerte in Rastatt (Jul).
Herbolzheim
R h e i n Gutach
In the open-air museum near the
E l z J small town of Gutach visitors can
Emmendingen D see the Schwarz wald’s oldest house
– the Vogtsbauernhof – which
D r e i s a m W
J Teningen A L dates from the 16th century.

Denzlingen J R Z
A Furtwangen
Freiburg W
im Breisgau
H
C . Furtwangen
S B r e g The main attraction of Furtwangen is its clock museum
(Uhrenmuseum), which houses a collection of more than
Bad Krozingen 8,000 varied chronometers.
Staufen im Breisgau Titisee-
Neustadt
Feldberg
Todtnau
Müllheim D
C H W A R Z W A L J Todtmoos St Blasien
J


S Kandern
Hangloch-Wasserfall
This magnificent mountain
waterfall near Todtnau is one of the
W i e s e most beautiful in the Black Forest.
J Wehr Waldshut-Tiengen
Lörrach
J
Rheinfelden
Basel

0 km 10
0 miles 10
KĘTRZYN
Key
. St Blasien KÖNIGSEE
In the beautiful health resort of Motorway
St Blasien is a Benedictine Abbey, Mitterbach Main road
founded in the 9th century. Crowned Secondary road
with a vast dome, its church (1783)
is an excellent example of early River
Neo-Classical style. 4 Viewpoint
REITER
ALPE

330-331_EW_Germany.indd 331 09/10/17 12:49 pm

WESTERN


GERMANY





Introducing Western
Germany 334–339
Rhineland-Palatinate
and Saarland 340–363
Hesse 364–385
North Rhine-Westphalia 386–419














































332-333_EW_Germany.indd 332 09/10/17 1:00 pm 332-333_EW_Germany.indd 333 09/10/17 1:00 pm
Eyewitness Travel LAYERS PRINTED:
Section openers template “UK” LAYER
(SourceReport v1.1)
Date 15th November 2012
Size 125mm x 217mm

WESTERN


GERMANY





Introducing Western
Germany 334–339
Rhineland-Palatinate
and Saarland 340–363
Hesse 364–385
North Rhine-Westphalia 386–419














































332-333_EW_Germany.indd 333 09/10/17 1:00 pm

334  WESTERN GERM AN Y INTRODUCING WESTERN GERM AN Y  335

Western Germany at a Glance Detmold is best known for its
magni ficent castle (see p419) – one of
Famed for its excellent wines and the festivities of Cologne’s the most beautiful examples of the
annual carnival, Western Germany is the country’s “Weser Renaissance” style of architecture.
wealthiest and most heavily industrialized region. The
Ruhr district still harbours enormous industrial potential,
while Frankfurt am Main is Germany’s largest financial
centre. The region is also rich in tourist attractions – visitors
are drawn to the romantic castles which line the Rhine and
Mosel valleys, to Cologne with its majestic twin-towered
cathedral, the spa town of Aachen, the museums of Locator Map
Frankfurt and Kassel and the imposing Romanesque
cathedrals of Speyer, Worms and Mainz. RheineRheine MindenMinden
GronauGronau

BielefeldBielefeld The Museum Fridericianum in Kassel (see
MünsterMünster
CoesfeldCoesfeld pp368–9), originally built to house Friederich II’s
DetmoldDetmold
art collection, has hosted the documenta, an
WiedenbrückWiedenbrück exhibition of contemporary art that has
KleveKleve
NORTH RHINE-NORTH RHINE- achieved international acclaim, every four to
WESTPHALIAWESTPHALIA HammHamm PaderbornPaderborn five years since 1955.
(See pp386–419)(See pp386–419)
DortmundDortmund
EssenEssen WarburgWarburg
DuisburgDuisburg
HagenHagen
MeschedeMeschede KasselKassel
DüsseldorfDüsseldorf WuppertalWuppertal
SolingenSolingen
CologneCologne
SiegenSiegen HESSEHESSE BadBad
HersfeldHersfeld
Cologne Cathedral (see pp406–7), AachenAachen HennefHennef (See pp364–85)(See pp364–85)
which was not completed until the BonnBonn MarburgMarburg AlsfeldAlsfeld
19th century, is generally considered
one of the most outstanding Gothic
buildings in Germany. WetzlarWetzlar GiessenGiessen
FuldaFulda
0 kilometres 100 KoblenzKoblenz Fulda Cathedral (see p372) is one
of the finest Baroque churches in
0 miles 100
PrümPrüm Hesse. It was built on the site of
FrankfurtFrankfurt the previous Romanesque church
WiesbadenWiesbaden am Mainam Main and follows the original layout.
WittlichWittlich
MainzMainz
BadBad
KreuznachKreuznach
DarmstadtDarmstadt
TrierTrier RHINELAND-RHINELAND-
PALATINATE &PALATINATE &
SAARLANDSAARLAND WormsWorms
(See pp340–63)(See pp340–63)
LudwigshafenLudwigshafen
KaiserslauternKaiserslautern The old town in
Frankfurt am Main
Maria Laach (see pp362–3) SaarbrückenSaarbrücken SpeyerSpeyer (see p379) is centred
is a charming, beautifully PirmasensPirmasens around the Römerberg –
preserved Romanesque LandauLandau a square surrounded by
abbey in a tranquil, attractive half-timbered
isolated setting on the houses, with the Fountain
shores of the Laacher See. of Justice as a focal point.
The Saar river bend, near Mettlach, Saarland


334-335_EW_Germany.indd 334 09/10/17 1:01 pm 334-335_EW_Germany.indd 335 09/10/17 1:01 pm
Eyewitness Travel LAYERS PRINTED:
Flashmap template “UK” LAYER
(Source v1.2)
Date 7th January 2013
Size 125mm x 217mm

INTRODUCING WESTERN GERM AN Y  335


Detmold is best known for its
magni ficent castle (see p419) – one of
the most beautiful examples of the
“Weser Renaissance” style of architecture.









Rheine Minden
Gronau

Bielefeld The Museum Fridericianum in Kassel (see
Münster
Coesfeld pp368–9), originally built to house Friederich II’s
Detmold
art collection, has hosted the documenta, an
Wiedenbrück exhibition of contemporary art that has
Kleve
NORTH RHINE- achieved international acclaim, every four to
WESTPHALIA Hamm Paderborn five years since 1955.
(See pp386–419)
Dortmund
Essen Warburg
Duisburg
Hagen
Meschede Kassel
Düsseldorf Wuppertal
Solingen
Cologne
Siegen HESSE Bad
Hersfeld
Aachen (See pp364–85)
Hennef
Bonn Marburg
Alsfeld
Wetzlar Giessen
Fulda
Koblenz Fulda Cathedral (see p372) is one
of the finest Baroque churches in
Prüm Hesse. It was built on the site of
Frankfurt the previous Romanesque church
Wiesbaden am Main and follows the original layout.
Wittlich
Mainz
Bad
Kreuznach
Darmstadt
Trier RHINELAND-
PALATINATE &
SAARLAND Worms
(See pp340–63)
Ludwigshafen
Kaiserslautern The old town in
Frankfurt am Main
Saarbrücken Speyer (see p379) is centred
Pirmasens around the Römerberg –
Landau a square surrounded by
attractive half-timbered
houses, with the Fountain
of Justice as a focal point.




334-335_EW_Germany.indd 335 09/10/17 1:01 pm

336  WESTERN GERM AN Y INTRODUCING WESTERN GERM AN Y  337


Wine in Western Germany

Of the great European vineyards, Germany’s are the farthest
north. There are 13 wine-growing regions in Germany, but
the most famous German vineyards are those in the western
part of the country, especially the Rheingau, Pfalz, RheineRheine 30 MindenMinden
30
Rheinhessen and Mosel regions. The most widely drunk 54
54
alcoholic beverage in Germany is beer – unlike in France, 1 1 61 61
Italy or Spain – and therefore the wines produced here 31 31 54 BielefeldBielefeld The Rheingau, where
54
are mainly high-quality wines of named vineyards, with CoesfeldCoesfeld MünsterMünster 1 1 the “Rhine” wines are
64
a relatively low production of table wine. 64 WiedenbrückWiedenbrück made, is well known for
3 3 43 43 1 1 its Rieslings, particularly
NORTH RHINE-NORTH RHINE- 2 2 64 PaderbornPaderborn the Johannisberger
64
WESTPHALIAWESTPHALIA HammHamm Riesling. A famous
57
57
vineyard is Prinz
68
68
DortmundDortmund 44 von Hessen.
44
DuisburgDuisburg 7 7
EssenEssen 445 7 7
445
40 40
HagenHagen MeschedeMeschede KasselKassel The fountain of the “Wine Witch” in the small
DüsseldorfDüsseldorf 46 46 55 55 town of Winningen, in the Mosel region
WuppertalWuppertal
1 1
Rhein
Rhein
The Mosel region produces 61
61
superb white wines from the CologneCologne 4 4 3 3 BadBad
Riesling grape. The highest 4 4 SiegenSiegen 62 HersfeldHersfeld
62
quality wines are those AachenAachen HennefHennef
labelled Prädikatswein. BonnBonn 45 MarburgMarburg
45
7 7
5 5
3 3 3 3
WetzlarWetzlar HESSEHESSE
Vineyards in Edenkoben, in the southern FuldaFulda
part of the Weinstraße (see p351), in 61 49 49 45
61
45
the Palatinate KoblenzKoblenz
48 48
FrankfurtFrankfurt 66 66
3
3
Important Facts About German Wine WiesbadenWiesbaden am Mainam Main
1 1
M osel
WittlichWittlich
Region and climate M osel 327 327 61 Rhein Wine Regions
61
Gentle, rocky hills stretching along the river bends – MainzMainz 49 49
Rhein
perfect for Rieslings – are typical of the Mosel and 63 63 Two well-known wine
Rheingau regions. Clay and limestone soil, appropriate for the Bad KreuznachBad Kreuznach DarmstadtDarmstadt regions are the Mosel and
Müller-Thurgau variety, are found in Hesse on the Rhine. The German TrierTrier 41 41 the Rheingau. Exceptional
climate is considerably more severe than that of southern countries, RHINELAND-RHINELAND- 5 5 Rieslings are produced here
which gives the wines a slightly sharp, refreshing taste. PALATINATE &PALATINATE & WormsWorms as well as smaller amounts Wine cellars in the former Cistercian monastery at
SAARLANDSAARLAND of other wines. The Rheingau Eberbach in the Rheingau region
LudwigshafenLudwigshafen produces a full-bodied red
Typical grape varieties 6 6 wine in addition to the
The most popular red variety is the Spätburgunder, SpeyerSpeyer dominant Rieslings. 0 kilometres 70
known in France as Pinot Noir, which produces a heavy SaarbrückenSaarbrücken 70
10
wine with a strong flavour. White grapes are much more 10 Rheinhessen produces not 0 miles
popular, especially the famous Rieslings, from which the best LandauLandau only several types of white
white wines are produced, the Müller-Thurgau, which gives a light and red wines, but also a
wine with a fruity bouquet, the Grauburgun der (Pinot Grigio) and rosé, as does the Palatinate.
the Weißburgunder (Pinot Blanc). Less well-known are: Silvaner, Key
Gewürztraminer and Gutedel. Rosé wines are produced from the
Portugieser variety, cultivated in the Rhineland–Palatinate (Pfalz) Mosel
and Rheinhessen. Rheinhessen
Famous wine producers Mittelrhein
Mosel-Saar-Ruwer: Fritz Haag, Heymann-Löwenstein, Pfalz
Karthäuserhof, Dr Loosen, Egon Müller, J.J. Prüm, C. von The Nahe is famous for Liebfrauenmilch has been produced Nahe
Schubert, Willi Schaefer; Rheingau: Georg Breuer, Robert Weil; its white wines, produced in the Rheinhessen region for over Rheingau
Rheinhessen: Gunderloch, Keller; Pfalz: Müller-Catoir, Georg from Silvaner as well as 40 years. Originally designed for export,
Mosbacher, Dr Bürklin-Wolf, Reichsrat von Buhl. Riesling and Müller- it is a sweetish, medium-class of wine, a Ahr
Thurgau grapes. blend of several grape varieties. Hessische Bergstraße
336-337_EW_Germany.indd 336 09/10/17 1:01 pm 336-337_EW_Germany.indd 337 09/10/17 1:01 pm
Eyewitness Travel LAYERS PRINTED:
Feature template “UK” LAYER
(SourceReport v1.3)
Date 18th October 2012
Size 125mm x 217mm

INTRODUCING WESTERN GERM AN Y  337









30 Minden
Rheine
54
1 61
31 54 Bielefeld
Münster The Rheingau, where
Coesfeld the “Rhine” wines are
64 1
43 Wiedenbrück made, is well known for
3 1 its Rieslings, particularly
NORTH RHINE- 2 64 Paderborn the Johannisberger
WESTPHALIA Hamm Riesling. A famous
57
vineyard is Prinz
68
Dortmund 44 von Hessen.
Duisburg 7
Essen 445 7
40
Hagen Meschede Kassel The fountain of the “Wine Witch” in the small
Düsseldorf 46 55 town of Winningen, in the Mosel region
Wuppertal
1
Rhein
61
Cologne
4 3 Bad
4 Siegen 62 Hersfeld
Aachen Hennef
Bonn 45 Marburg
7
5
3 3
Wetzlar HESSE
Fulda
49
61
45
Koblenz
48
Frankfurt 66
3
Wiesbaden am Main
1
M osel 327 61 Rhein Mainz Wine Regions
Wittlich
63 49 Two well-known wine
Bad Kreuznach regions are the Mosel and
Trier 41 Darmstadt the Rheingau. Exceptional
RHINELAND- 5 Rieslings are produced here
PALATINATE & Worms as well as smaller amounts Wine cellars in the former Cistercian monastery at
SAARLAND of other wines. The Rheingau Eberbach in the Rheingau region
Ludwigshafen produces a full-bodied red
6 wine in addition to the 70
Saarbrücken Speyer dominant Rieslings. 0 kilometres
10 Rheinhessen produces not 0 miles 70
Landau only several types of white
and red wines, but also a
rosé, as does the Palatinate.
Key
Mosel
Rheinhessen
Mittelrhein
Pfalz
Liebfrauenmilch has been produced Nahe
in the Rheinhessen region for over Rheingau
40 years. Originally designed for export,
it is a sweetish, medium-class of wine, a Ahr
blend of several grape varieties. Hessische Bergstraße
336-337_EW_Germany.indd 337 09/10/17 1:01 pm

338  WESTERN GERM AN Y INTRODUCING WESTERN GERM AN Y  339


Romanesque Architecture Tower at the
intersection of the
Western Germany boasts some of the most interesting nave and transept
examples of Romanesque architecture in the whole Cross-vaulting
of Europe. Charlemagne’s famous chapel in Aachen (or cross-
ribbed vaulting)
was erected as early as the Carolingian period. The
cathedral in Trier and the church of St Maria im Kapitol
in Cologne are among the most outstanding creations
of early-Romanesque architecture of the Frankish
dynasty. In the 12th century, the most important
German centres of art were Cologne and the towns The portal of the Dom in Trier has a
of the central Rhineland, with three magnificent magnificent tympanum, depicting Christ
with the Virgin Mary and St Peter.
cathedrals in Speyer, Mainz and Worms, and the
monastery in Maria Laach, preserved to this day. Romanesque
Cathedrals
Cathedrals of the type
Aachen Cathedral is one of a complex
of buildings built under the rule of shown here were built with
Charlemagne in about 800 AD, It inspired a basilica-type internal
Romanesque architecture across Europe. arrangement, including
a transept and presbytery,
and a double choir usually
Twin western towers ending in a semicircular
apse. The Dom in Speyer has
a massive twin-towered west
front, as shown here. The
Gallery other pair of towers rises
above the above the presbytery, and
vestibule the intersection of the nave
The front elevation of the and transept has a lower,
St Gotthard-Kapelle in Mainz has broad fifth tower.
upper galleries with arcades decorated
with friezes. This is a common feature
of Romanesque architecture.
Romanesque Capitals
Romanesque churches in the Rhine Valley
feature exquisite stone sculptures. The
capitals, with their extraordinary variety of
form, ranging from simple blocks to fine
Twin eastern figurative or animal-decorated compositions,
The system of vaults towers
also acts as support. are of particular interest.





Water-leaf capital of a Simplified
bonded column Corinthian capital




The northern portal Lavishly decorated
of the Dom in Worms main portal
is framed by an offset
architrave and flanked by The St Gotthard-Kapelle in Mainz, next to the
pairs of columns, as are the The monastery in Maria Laach has Dom, was the archbishop’s personal chapel for private Cushion (or block or Zoömorphic
portals of many other many capitals with intricate decorations, prayer. It is comparable to similar private buildings in cube) capital (animal-decorated) capital
Romanesque cathedrals. such as these carvings with human faces. secular palaces.





338-339_EW_Germany.indd 338 09/10/17 1:01 pm 338-339_EW_Germany.indd 339 09/10/17 1:01 pm
Eyewitness Travel LAYERS PRINTED:
Feature template “UK” LAYER
(SourceReport v1.3)
Date 18th October 2012
Size 125mm x 217mm

INTRODUCING WESTERN GERM AN Y  339



Tower at the
intersection of the
nave and transept
Cross-vaulting
(or cross-
ribbed vaulting)





The portal of the Dom in Trier has a
magnificent tympanum, depicting Christ
with the Virgin Mary and St Peter.
Romanesque
Cathedrals
Cathedrals of the type
shown here were built with
a basilica-type internal
arrangement, including
a transept and presbytery,
and a double choir usually
ending in a semicircular
apse. The Dom in Speyer has
a massive twin-towered west
front, as shown here. The
other pair of towers rises
above the presbytery, and
the intersection of the nave
and transept has a lower,
broad fifth tower.


Romanesque Capitals
Romanesque churches in the Rhine Valley
feature exquisite stone sculptures. The
capitals, with their extraordinary variety of
form, ranging from simple blocks to fine
Twin eastern figurative or animal-decorated compositions,
The system of vaults towers
also acts as support. are of particular interest.





Water-leaf capital of a Simplified
bonded column Corinthian capital







The St Gotthard-Kapelle in Mainz, next to the
Dom, was the archbishop’s personal chapel for private Cushion (or block or Zoömorphic
prayer. It is comparable to similar private buildings in cube) capital (animal-decorated) capital
secular palaces.





338-339_EW_Germany.indd 339 09/10/17 1:01 pm

WESTERN GERM AN Y  341

RHINELAND–

PALATINATE AND

SAARLAND



The Rhineland-Palatinate is one of Germany’s most romantic regions,
attracting visitors with its vineyards, gentle hills and fairy-tale castles along
the Rhine and Mosel valleys. Several towns, such as Trier, have kept
reminders of their Roman heritage.

These two states, which border France in the is still said to lie at the bottom of the
west, did not emerge in their present form Rhine. The impressive cathedral in Worms,
until after World War II. The Rhineland- along with the Romanesque cathedrals of
Palatinate was created from the previously Speyer and Mainz, is a fascinating example
independent Bavarian Palatinate and the of medieval sacral architecture.
southern part of the Central Rhineland, The “Deutsches Eck” in Koblenz is the
making it a true jigsaw-puzzle of territories strategic spot where the Mosel flows into
without a coherent history. The Saarland was the Rhine, and Koblenz also marks the
under French rule until 1956. Today, it forms beginning of the romantic Rhine Valley.
a bridge between France and Germany, A boat trip upriver, justifiably popular with
the two driving forces of European unity. visitors, will pass some spectacular rocky
The turbulent history of the region has scenery, including the famous Lorelei
left many traces. The picturesque Mosel Rock and countless castles set among
Valley is lined with grand medieval vineyards on either side of the gorge.
fortresses, such as Burg Eltz, while The famous ironworks complex in
Worms on the Rhine is the setting for Völklingen is a reminder of a bygone era,
most of the Nibelungen legend as well as when most of the Saarland’s inhabitants
the residence of the mythical king of were active in mining, steelworks and
Burgundy, Gunther. The Nibelung treasure other heavy industries.























Panorama of Saarbrücken, with the Saar river in the foreground
The majestic ceiling in the Hall of Banners, in Burg Eltz



340-341_EW_Germany.indd 340 09/10/17 1:01 pm 340-341_EW_Germany.indd 341 09/10/17 1:01 pm
Eyewitness Travel LAYERS PRINTED:
Regional opener template “UK” LAYER
(SourceReport v1.2)
Date 5th December 2012
Size 125mm x 217mm

WESTERN GERM AN Y  341

RHINELAND–

PALATINATE AND

SAARLAND



The Rhineland-Palatinate is one of Germany’s most romantic regions,
attracting visitors with its vineyards, gentle hills and fairy-tale castles along
the Rhine and Mosel valleys. Several towns, such as Trier, have kept
reminders of their Roman heritage.

These two states, which border France in the is still said to lie at the bottom of the
west, did not emerge in their present form Rhine. The impressive cathedral in Worms,
until after World War II. The Rhineland- along with the Romanesque cathedrals of
Palatinate was created from the previously Speyer and Mainz, is a fascinating example
independent Bavarian Palatinate and the of medieval sacral architecture.
southern part of the Central Rhineland, The “Deutsches Eck” in Koblenz is the
making it a true jigsaw-puzzle of territories strategic spot where the Mosel flows into
without a coherent history. The Saarland was the Rhine, and Koblenz also marks the
under French rule until 1956. Today, it forms beginning of the romantic Rhine Valley.
a bridge between France and Germany, A boat trip upriver, justifiably popular with
the two driving forces of European unity. visitors, will pass some spectacular rocky
The turbulent history of the region has scenery, including the famous Lorelei
left many traces. The picturesque Mosel Rock and countless castles set among
Valley is lined with grand medieval vineyards on either side of the gorge.
fortresses, such as Burg Eltz, while The famous ironworks complex in
Worms on the Rhine is the setting for Völklingen is a reminder of a bygone era,
most of the Nibelungen legend as well as when most of the Saarland’s inhabitants
the residence of the mythical king of were active in mining, steelworks and
Burgundy, Gunther. The Nibelung treasure other heavy industries.























Panorama of Saarbrücken, with the Saar river in the foreground
The majestic ceiling in the Hall of Banners, in Burg Eltz



340-341_EW_Germany.indd 341 09/10/17 1:01 pm

342  WESTERN GERM AN Y RHINELAND–P ALA TINA TE & SAARLAND  343

Exploring Rhineland-Palatinate and Saarland

White wine enthusiasts come here, attracted by the beautiful,
picturesque valleys of the Rhine and Mosel rivers, with their medieval
castles and small towns. Travelling along the Deutsche Weinstraße
(German wine route), Germany’s oldest tourist route, visitors can see
fascinating historic buildings and taste the different types of wine
made by the numerous small vineyards scattered throughout the AltenkirchenAltenkirchen SiegenSiegen
entire region. Speyer and Mainz have monumental Romanesque BonnBonn Wied
Wied
cathedrals, while Trier boasts many interesting Roman relics. The huge
W e s t e r w a l d
ironworks in Völklingen is a surprising sight, transporting visitors back W e s t e r w a l d
to a time when heavy industry ruled much of the region. The interior of the Dom in Trier
CologneCologne Rhine (Rhein)
(Köln)(Köln) Sights at a Glance
Ahr Ahr LaacherLaacher AndernachAndernach MontabaurMontabaur 1 Trier pp344–7
Rhine (Rhein)
SeeSee
AdenauAdenau Hohe Acht BendorfBendorf 2 Saarland p348
Hohe Acht
747m 4 Speyer
747m
MARIA MARIA KOBLENZKOBLENZ
Lahn
LAACHLAACH Lahn 5 Worms
Schneifel LimburgLimburg 7 Mainz pp352–5
Schneifel
LiègeLiège GerolsteinGerolstein Burg PyrmontBurg Pyrmont 9 Koblenz pp360–61
0 Maria Laach pp362–3
Burg EltzBurg Eltz
E i f e l
M O S E LTA
PrümPrüm E i f e l DaunDaun Mosel BoppardBoppard (RHEINTAL) Suggested routes
Mosel
Kyll Kyll Lieser M O S E LTA L L St GoarSt Goar 3 Moseltal
6 Deutsche Weinstraße
Prüm
Prüm
(RHEINTAL)
RHINE VALLEY
RHINE VALLEY
Lieser
BacharachBacharach LorchLorch FrankfurtFrankfurt 8 Rheintal
am Mainam Main
RHEINLAN D -PF ALZRHEINLAN D -PF ALZ
SimmernSimmern RüdesheimRüdesheim
BitburgBitburg WittlichWittlich BingenBingen Key
am Rheinam Rhein MAINZMAINZ
Motorway
Our
Our
Bernkastel KuesBernkastel Kues
Under construction
Bad KreuznachBad Kreuznach Major road
OppenheimOppenheim
SchweichSchweich MorbachMorbach Minor road
Simmerbach
Simmerbach
H u n s r ü c k Idar-ObersteinIdar-Oberstein AlzeyAlzey Main railway
Nahe
H u n s r ü c k
TRIERTRIER Nahe Scenic route
ErbeskopfErbeskopf
The imposing red-sandstone building of the 818m818m Glan Glan Alsenz Alsenz Minor railway
Dom in Mainz BirkenfeldBirkenfeld International border
Nordpfälzer Bergland
SaarburgSaarburg Nordpfälzer Bergland DonnersbergDonnersberg WORMSWORMS
Mosel Mosel NohfeldenNohfelden 686m686m Rhine (Rhein) Regional border
Summit
0 kilometres 20
FrankenthalFrankenthal
Rhine (Rhein)
0 miles 20 Saar SanktSankt
Saar
MettlachMettlach WendelWendel LudwigshafenLudwigshafen
SAARLANDSAARLAND KaiserslauternKaiserslautern Bad DürkheimBad Dürkheim
OttweilerOttweiler
Getting Around
WEINSTRASSE
S A A R L A N
S A A R L A N D D
DillingenDillingen Neustadt Neustadt HeidelbergHeidelberg The A65 motorway links Karls ruhe
SaarlouisSaarlouis HomburgHomburg Saar Saar
NeunkirchenNeunkirchen WEINSTRASSE Speyerbach with Ludwigshafen, and continues
Speyerbach
P f ä l z e r w a l d
VölklingenVölklingen from there towards Luxembourg
ZweibrückenZweibrücken SPEYERSPEYER or Lorraine, via Homburg and
SaarbrückenSaarbrücken Saarbrücken. The A32, and later
MandelMandel P f ä l z e r w a l d LandauLandau the A4, leads from Saarbrücken to
DEUTSCHE
PirmasensPirmasens
MetzMetz DEUTSCHE Metz or Strasbourg. The A1 runs
northwards from Friedrichsthal to
Trier and the Mosel Valley. Intercity
DörrenbachDörrenbach
trains offer a frequent and
Schweigen-Schweigen- Wörth am RheinWörth am Rhein convenient service; Hahn, Frankfurt
SchweighofenSchweighofen
am Main and Cologne/Bonn
Lauter
Lauter
KarlsruheKarlsruhe (Konrad-Adenauer-Flughafen)
The proud complex of Schloß Stolzenfels near Koblenz, have international airports.
designed by Karl Friedrich Schinkel
For additional map symbols see back flap
342-343_EW_Germany.indd 342 09/10/17 2:29 pm 342-343_EW_Germany.indd 343 09/10/17 2:29 pm

RHINELAND–P ALA TINA TE & SAARLAND  343










Altenkirchen Siegen
Bonn
Wied
W e s t e r w a l d The interior of the Dom in Trier
Cologne Rhine (Rhein)
(Köln) Sights at a Glance
Ahr Laacher Andernach Montabaur 1 Trier pp344–7
See
Adenau Hohe Acht Bendorf 2 Saarland p348
747m 4 Speyer
MARIA KOBLENZ
LAACH Lahn 5 Worms
Schneifel Limburg 7 Mainz pp352–5
Liège Gerolstein Burg Pyrmont 9 Koblenz pp360–61
0 Maria Laach pp362–3
Burg Eltz
Prüm E i f e l Daun Mosel Boppard (RHEINTAL) Suggested routes
Kyll Lieser M O S E LTA L St Goar 3 Moseltal
6 Deutsche Weinstraße
Prüm
RHINE VALLEY
Bacharach Lorch Frankfurt 8 Rheintal
am Main
RHEINLAN D -PF ALZ
Simmern Rüdesheim
Bitburg Wittlich Bingen Key
am Rhein MAINZ
Motorway
Our
Bernkastel Kues
Under construction
Bad Kreuznach Major road
Oppenheim
Schweich Morbach Minor road
Simmerbach
H u n s r ü c k 818m Idar-Oberstein Alzey Main railway
TRIER Nahe Scenic route
Erbeskopf
Birkenfeld Glan Alsenz Minor railway
International border
Saarburg Nordpfälzer Bergland Donnersberg WORMS
Mosel Nohfelden 686m Rhine (Rhein) Regional border
Summit
Frankenthal
Sankt
Saar
Mettlach Wendel Ludwigshafen
SAARLAND Kaiserslautern Bad Dürkheim
Ottweiler
Getting Around
S A A R L A N D
Dillingen Neustadt Heidelberg The A65 motorway links Karls ruhe
Saarlouis Homburg Saar
Neunkirchen WEINSTRASSE Speyerbach with Ludwigshafen, and continues
Völklingen from there towards Luxembourg
Zweibrücken SPEYER or Lorraine, via Homburg and
Saarbrücken Saarbrücken. The A32, and later
Mandel P f ä l z e r w a l d Landau the A4, leads from Saarbrücken to
Pirmasens
Metz DEUTSCHE Metz or Strasbourg. The A1 runs
northwards from Friedrichsthal to
Trier and the Mosel Valley. Intercity
Dörrenbach
trains offer a frequent and
Schweigen- Wörth am Rhein convenient service; Hahn, Frankfurt
Schweighofen
am Main and Cologne/Bonn
Lauter
Karlsruhe (Konrad-Adenauer-Flughafen)
have international airports.
342-343_EW_Germany.indd 343 09/10/17 2:29 pm

344  WESTERN GERM AN Y TRIER  345

1 Trier Four Virtues. On the south western P Aula Palatina VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
side stands the 15th-century (Konstantin-Basilika)
One of Germany’s oldest towns, Trier was founded in 17 BC as Steipe, with a steep gabled roof. Konstantinplatz. Tel (0651) 42 570. Road map A5. * 99,000.
Augusta Treverorum, supposedly by Emperor Augustus himself. Originally it was used by the town Open Apr–Oct: 10am–6pm Mon–Sat, n An der Porta Nigra (0651­97
Thanks to its eventful Roman past, it preserves some of the most councillors as a guest house and 1–6pm Sun; Nov–Mar: 10am–noon & 80 80). ∑ trier-info.de
2–4pm Tue–Sun.
impressive Roman antiquities outside of Rome. In the 5th banqueting hall. The Baroque Another UNESCO World Heritage Transport
Rotes Haus (red house) next
£
century the town had 70,000 inhabitants, but was conquered door dates from 1683. Löwen- Site, the Aula Palatina (Palatinate
and destroyed by Germanic tribes, never returning to its former apotheke, in a 17th- century hall) dates from AD 310. An elon­
importance. Today, Trier attracts visitors for its picturesque river building on the south eastern gated, rectangular brick building the Aula Palatina was integrated
views, its combination of ancient Roman buildings and local side of the square, is Germany’s 67 m (220 ft) long, 27.5 m (90 ft) into the newly built palace
charm, and for its wine. It is also the birthplace of Karl Marx, with oldest pharmacy, its records wide and 30 m (98 ft) high and its eastern wall partly
demolished. During Napoleonic
dating back to the 13th century.
with a vast semicircular apse,
an important exhibition on the history of communism.
it served as the throne hall of and Prussian times, the hall
E Museum am Dom Trier the Roman emperor or his served as army barracks. The
P Porta Nigra Bischof-Stein-Platz 1. Tel (0651) 710 52 The Liebfrauenkirche – one of the representative. Following the Prussian king Friedrich Wilhelm
Tel (0651) 97 80 80 (tourist office). 55. Open 9am–5pm Tue–Sat; 1–5pm country’s earliest Gothic churches town’s sacking by Germanic IV eventually ordered its
Open Mar & Oct: 9am–5pm daily; Sun. Closed 1 Jan, 24–26, 31 Dec & tribes, the building was reduced reconstruction. From 1856 it
Apr–Sep: 9am–6pm daily; Nov–Feb: public hols. & in Marburg, this is one of the to rubble. In the 12th century has served as the Protestant
9am–4pm daily. & A 19th-century former Prussian earliest examples of German the apse was converted into a church of St Saviour. Restored
This town gate, named Porta prison near the cathedral now Gothic architecture. Its ground tower, to accommodate the after bombing in 1944, its giant
Nigra (black gate) in the houses the art collection of the plan is based on the Greek archbishop. In the 17th century, size still seems remarkable.
Middle Ages because of the Diocese, including early Christian cross, and the tower above
colour of its weathered stone, works of art. Its most prized the dome accentuates the inter­
was erected in the 2nd century possession is a 3rd-century section of the naves. Its western
(a similar gate would have ceiling painting from the portal is richly decorated with
stood at the town’s southern imperial palace that once stood carved ornaments and icono­
entrance). The oldest German on the site of the cathedral. graphic symbols. The interior
defensive structure, it still Rediscovered in 1945, the fresco features many outstanding
impresses with its colossal size: Petrusbrunnen (fountain of St Peter) painstakingly reassembled over relics, including 15th­century
36 m (118 ft) long, 21.5 m in Hauptmarkt the following decades. Another wall paintings on 12 columns,
(70.5 ft) wide and 30 m (27 ft) exhibit is the reconstructed crypt which symbolize the apostles.
high. Two gateways lead onto a P Hauptmarkt of the Bene dictine church of St Important tombs include that of
small inner courtyard, and there Trier’s main market square, Maximin, which has 9th-century a local noble man, Karl von
are two tiers of defence galleries one of the most attractive in Carolingian wall paintings. Metternich (1636). The monumental, austere exterior of the Aula Palatina
with large open windows. It is Germany, dates back to the
flanked by the four-storey 10th century. The Marktkreuz R Dom St Peter
western tower and the three- (market cross) erected around Tel (0651) 979 07 90. Open Apr–Oct: Trier City Centre
storey unfinished eastern tower. the same time symbolized the 6:30am–6pm daily; Nov–Mar: 6:30am– 1 Porta Nigra
In the 12th century, the town’s right to hold markets. 5:30pm). & ∑ trierer-dom.de 2 Hauptmarkt St Paulin-
Kirche
building was transformed into Today a copy of the original The present cathedral, a Porta Nigra TH.-HEUSS-ALLEE Hauptbahnhof
the two-storey church of cross is mounted on a granite UNESCO World Heritage Site, 3 Museum am Dom Trier C HRISTOPHSTR.
St Simeon and served as such Roman column, with a relief incorporates the remains of an 4 Dom St Peter O E R E N S T R A S S E
Dreikönigenhaus
until the early 19th century. of the Lamb of God. On the older 4th-century church. The 5 Liebfrauenkirche STOCK- DEW ORASTRASSE
Porta Nigra is a UNESCO World southeastern side of the square oldest cathedral in Germany, it 6 Kurfürstliches Palais PAULUS- PLATZ SIMEON- STR.
PLATZ
Heritage is the Petrusbrunnen (St Peter’s was constructed in stages – in 7 Aula Palatina Die Steipe & HAUPT- Museum am Dom Trier
Rotes Haus
MARKT
Site. fountain), from 1595, with the early 11th century, late 12th 8 Rheinisches DIETRICHSTRASSE St Gangolf Dom
St Peter
sculptures of St Peter and the century, mid-13th century and Landesmuseum Liebfrauen- GÜTERSTRASSE
14th century. It is a triple-nave, 9 Stadtbibliothek WINDMÜHLEN- STRASSE FLEISCHSTR. BROTSTRASSE kirche KONSTANTIN-
two-choir basilica with transept 0 Kaiserthermen FRAUENSTR. St. Georgs- Aula Palatina PLATZ B A L D U I N - S T R A S S E GARTENFELD-
and six towers, and its furnishings q Viehmarktthermen brunnen Kurfürstliches O S T A L L E E STRASSE
include several outstanding Karl-Marx- NAGETSTR.
Haus
objects, such as the tomb of FELDSTRASSE VIEH- Palastgarten
the papal envoy Ivo (1144). BRÜCKENSTRASSE MARKT WEBERBACH Palais Rheinisches SCHÜTZENSTRASSE
R Liebfrauenkirche Mosel KRAHNENUFER Viehmarkt- NEUSTRASSE Stadtbibliothek Landesmuseum
thermen
Liebfrauenstraße Tel (0651) 979 07 90. KARL-MARX-STR. LORENZ- KELLNER-STR. HERME SSTR. KURFÜRSTENSTRASSE
Open daily but times vary; check K A I S E R S T R A S S E Kaiserthermen
website. & ∑ liebfrauen-trierer.de Römer- UFER S Ü D A L L E E Amphitheater
brücke
Adjoining the cathedral is the ST.-BARBARA- Pfarrkirche Heiligkreuzkapelle OLEWIGER STRASSE
Liebfrauenkirche (Church of Our Barbaratherme St Matthias
Dear Lady), built in 1235–60 and
also a UNESCO World Heritage 0 metres 400
The magnificent Porta Nigra, gigantic Roman gateway into Trier Site. Along with the cathedral 0 yards 400
For hotels and restaurants in this area see p499 and pp524–5 For keys to symbols see back flap
344-345_EW_Germany.indd 344 09/10/17 2:30 pm 344-345_EW_Germany.indd 345 09/10/17 2:30 pm
Eyewitness Travel LAYERS PRINTED:
Catalogue template “UK” LAYER
(Source v2.2)
Date 15th January 2013
Size 125mm x 217mm

TRIER  345


P Aula Palatina VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
(Konstantin-Basilika)
Konstantinplatz. Tel (0651) 42 570. Road map A5. * 99,000.
Open Apr–Oct: 10am–6pm Mon–Sat, n An der Porta Nigra (0651­97
1–6pm Sun; Nov–Mar: 10am–noon & 80 80). ∑ trier-info.de
2–4pm Tue–Sun. Transport
Another UNESCO World Heritage £
Site, the Aula Palatina (Palatinate
hall) dates from AD 310. An elon­
gated, rectangular brick building the Aula Palatina was integrated
67 m (220 ft) long, 27.5 m (90 ft) into the newly built palace
wide and 30 m (98 ft) high and its eastern wall partly
with a vast semicircular apse, demolished. During Napoleonic
it served as the throne hall of and Prussian times, the hall
the Roman emperor or his served as army barracks. The
The Liebfrauenkirche – one of the representative. Following the Prussian king Friedrich Wilhelm
country’s earliest Gothic churches town’s sacking by Germanic IV eventually ordered its
tribes, the building was reduced reconstruction. From 1856 it
in Marburg, this is one of the to rubble. In the 12th century has served as the Protestant
earliest examples of German the apse was converted into a church of St Saviour. Restored
Gothic architecture. Its ground tower, to accommodate the after bombing in 1944, its giant
plan is based on the Greek archbishop. In the 17th century, size still seems remarkable.
cross, and the tower above
the dome accentuates the inter­
section of the naves. Its western
portal is richly decorated with
carved ornaments and icono­
graphic symbols. The interior
features many outstanding
relics, including 15th­century
wall paintings on 12 columns,
which symbolize the apostles.
Important tombs include that of
a local noble man, Karl von
Metternich (1636). The monumental, austere exterior of the Aula Palatina

Trier City Centre
1 Porta Nigra
2 Hauptmarkt Porta Nigra St Paulin-
Kirche
3 Museum am Dom Trier C HRISTOPHSTR.
TH.-HEUSS-ALLEE Hauptbahnhof
4 Dom St Peter O E R E N S T R A S S E
5 Liebfrauenkirche Dreikönigenhaus DEW ORASTRASSE
6 Kurfürstliches Palais PAULUS- STOCK- SIMEON- STR.
PLATZ
7 Aula Palatina PLATZ Die Steipe & HAUPT- Museum am Dom Trier
Rotes Haus
MARKT
8 Rheinisches DIETRICHSTRASSE St Gangolf Dom
St Peter
Landesmuseum Liebfrauen- GÜTERSTRASSE
9 Stadtbibliothek WINDMÜHLEN- STRASSE FLEISCHSTR. BROTSTRASSE kirche KONSTANTIN-
0 Kaiserthermen FRAUENSTR. St. Georgs- Aula Palatina PLATZ B A L D U I N - S T R A S S E GARTENFELD-
q Viehmarktthermen Karl-Marx- NAGETSTR. Kurfürstliches O S T A L L E E STRASSE
brunnen
FELDSTRASSE BRÜCKENSTRASSE MARKT WEBERBACH Palais SCHÜTZENSTRASSE
Haus
Palastgarten
VIEH-
Landesmuseum
KARL-MARX-STR. LORENZ- KELLNER-STR. Viehmarkt- NEUSTRASSE Stadtbibliothek Rheinisches KURFÜRSTENSTRASSE
thermen
Mosel
KRAHNENUFER
HERME SSTR.
Römer- K A I S E R S T R A S S E Kaiserthermen Amphitheater
brücke UFER ST.-BARBARA- S Ü D A L L E E
Pfarrkirche OLEWIGER STRASSE
Barbaratherme St Matthias Heiligkreuzkapelle
0 metres 400
0 yards 400
For keys to symbols see back flap
344-345_EW_Germany.indd 345 09/10/17 2:30 pm

346  WESTERN GERM AN Y TRIER  347


The largest space is the reign of Constantine, they T Amphitheater
devoted to Roman relics. were the third largest bathing Petrisberg. Tel (0651) 730 10. Open
Among the star exhibits complex in the Roman world. Apr–Sep: 9am–6pm; Oct & Mar: 9am–
are a magnificent mosaic The remaining sections of 5pm; Nov–Feb: 9am–4pm daily. &
depicting Bacchus, from the walls and foundations Near the imperial baths are
the dining room of a indicate the former layout. the ruins of the Roman amphi­
Roman villa, and the Best preserved are the walls of theatre, dating from the 1st
lovely statuette of a the caldarium, the room with century AD. This was the scene
nymph, undoubtedly the the hot water pool. Next to it of gladiatorial fights and animal
work of a major artist. is the round tepidarium, the contests. The entire structure,
Also on display is the warm baths. The spacious consisting of an elliptical arena
largest treasure of gold frigidarium was used for cold and a stepped auditorium, was
coins from the Roman baths. Considerable room was surrounded by a high wall,
imperial age. Equally given to the palaestra, an divided into individual storeys
impressive is a stone outdoor exercise area. by colonnaded arcades. The
carving showing a ship complex was designed to seat
loaded with four giant T Viehmarktthermen up to 20,000 people. In the 5th
barrels, sailing on the Viehmarktplatz. Tel (0651) 994 10 57. century the inhabitants of Trier The ruins of Barbaratherme, ancient Roman baths
Mosel River. Dating from Open 9am–5pm Tue–Sun. used the amphitheatre as a
AD 220, the carving Following excavations place of refuge from the T Barbaratherme R St Paulin-Kirche
Portal of the Kurfürstliches Palais decorated the tomb of a completed in 1994, the increasingly frequent raids by Südallee. Open Apr–Sep: 9am–6pm; Thebäerstraße. Tel (0651) 270 850.
local wine-merchant. remains of these Roman Germanic tribes. Oct and Mar: 9am–5pm; Nov–Feb Open Mar–Sep: 9am–6pm Mon, Wed–
+ Kurfürstliches Palais baths, along with 9am–4pm. & Sat, 11am–6pm Tue, 10am–6pm Sun;
Konstantinplatz. Open only by P Stadtbibliothek those of medieval R Heiligkreuzkapelle Not far from the Roman bridge Oct–Feb: 9am–5pm Mon, Wed–Sat,
appointment; occasional tours and Weberbach 25. refuse pits and the Arnulfstraße/Rotbachstraße. across the Mosel River are the 11am–5pm Tue, 10am–7:30pm Sun.
concerts (ask at tourist information). The municipal library cellars of a Capucin The Chapel of the Holy Cross, ruins of the Barbara baths (2nd This church was built in the
The Kurfürstliches Palais is contains a number of monastery, are now in a secluded spot, is one of century AD). Although above 12th century, on the foun­
considered to be one of the important collections that on display to the Trier’s more interesting historic ground not much has been dations of an older Christian
most beautiful Rococo palaces were assembled here in public under a large buildings. Built in the Roman­ preserved, the extensive system chapel. In 1674 it was blown up
in the world. It has undergone the early 19th century, glass canopy. esque style in the second half of underground heating by the French army. St Paulin, its
several transformations over the when many monastic of the 11th century, at the channels, the hypocaustum, patron saint and bishop in Trier,
centuries and remains of the libraries closed down. P Jesuitenkirche initiative of the parson of Arnulfa clearly demon strates the original was one of the few to voice his
earlier buildings can still be seen. Among its treasures are 74 Jesuitenstraße 13. Open 9am – Cathedral, it is a small building size of this public bath complex. opposition to the Aryan credo
The present building was full-page miniatures of the 5pm daily. with a ground plan in the shape In the Middle Ages, Patrician and of Emperor Constantine II, in
designed by Johannes Seiz and famous Trier Apocalypse The Gothic Church of the of the Greek cross and an octa­ aristocratic families transformed which he rejected the divinity of
built in 1756–62 for Archbishop (from around AD 800), Holy Trinity was built gonal tower set within the cross. the baths into their residences. In Christ and proclaimed himself
Johann Philipp von Walderdorff. as well as one of the for Franciscan friars, Although it suffered serious the 17th century Jesuit monks alone to be made in God’s
The sculptures were created by few surviving copies who settled in Trier damage during World War II, it dismantled the remaining image. Paulin did not meet with
Ferdinand Tietz. The central of the first Bible Nymph in Rheinisches before 1238. The was meticulously restored to its structures, and used the a martyr’s death, but was exiled
tympanum shows Pomona, printed by Gutenberg. Landesmuseum surviving church, original state in the years 1957–8. recovered building materials to to Phrygia (now Turkey), where
Venus, Apollo and a group of from the late 13th construct their own college. he died in 358. The present
angels. The stairs, which lead T Kaiserthermen century, went to the Jesuits in R Basilika St Matthias church, a true gem of Rococo
from the garden to the inner Weimarer Allee/Kaiserstraße Tel 1570. The college (1610–14) Matthiasstraße 85. Tel (0651) 170 90. T St Maximin-Kirche architecture, was designed by
staircase, were designed in the (0651) 442 62. Open Apr–Sep: was transferred to the university Open 8am–7pm daily. Maximinstraße. Tel (0651) 979 07 90. Balthasar Neumann, who also
18th century, but not built until 9am–6pm; Oct & Mar: 9am–5pm; following the dissol ution of the This church’s history dates back 8 obligatory. created the main altar.
1981. They have beautiful hand- Nov–Feb: 9am–4pm daily. & Jesuit Order. It now houses a to the 5th century, when it In the Middle Ages there were
rails with typical Rococo motifs. Not far from the Rheinisches theological seminary. In the became the burial place of as many as four abbeys in Trier.
The gardens are equally beauti- Landesmuseum are the remains church, the tomb of Friedrich St Eucharius, the first bishop of St Maximin Abbey was founded
ful and include a miniature of the vast imperial baths. Built von Spee (1591–1635) is Trier. From the 8th century, the on the burial site of its patron
garden, a landscape garden and in the early 4th century, during worth a visit. church was run by Benedictine saint, who died in AD 325. The
a mother-and-child area. monks. In the 10th–11th surviving church was built in
centuries a new church was the 13th century, on the found­
E Rheinisches erected as burial site of the ations of the previous buildings.
Landesmuseum relics of the apostle, St Matthew. Its Romanesque–Gothic forms
Weimarer Allee 1. Tel (0651) 977 40. It was twice remodelled at the were partly obscured by the
Open 10am–5pm Tue–Sun. turn of the 15th to 16th cent­ remodelling work carried out in
Closed 1 Jan, 24, 25 & 26 Dec. & uries, when it acquired its rich 1580–1698. Now deconsecrated,
Only a few steps separate the Gothic vaults. The present the church is used as a music
electoral palace from the Rhine abbey dates from the 16th venue. It is possible to book
regional museum founded in century. The shrine holding the guided tours of the atmospheric
1877. Its collections are grouped apostle’s relics ensured that crypt. The Carolingian wall
into four sections: prehistoric, the church became one of the paintings that originally adorned
Roman, Franconian-Merovingian, most important destinations the crypt are now in the Museum Baroque ceiling paintings in the Rococo
and medieval to contemporary. Vast complex of the Kaiserthermen (imperial baths) for pilgrims in the region. am Dom Trier (see p344). St Paulin-Kirche
For hotels and restaurants in this area see p499 and pp524–5


346-347_EW_Germany.indd 346 09/10/17 2:30 pm 346-347_EW_Germany.indd 347 09/10/17 2:30 pm
Eyewitness Travel LAYERS PRINTED:
Catalogue template “UK” LAYER
(Source v2.2)
Date 15th January 2013
Size 125mm x 217mm

TRIER  347


T Amphitheater
Petrisberg. Tel (0651) 730 10. Open
Apr–Sep: 9am–6pm; Oct & Mar: 9am–
5pm; Nov–Feb: 9am–4pm daily. &
Near the imperial baths are
the ruins of the Roman amphi­
theatre, dating from the 1st
century AD. This was the scene
of gladiatorial fights and animal
contests. The entire structure,
consisting of an elliptical arena
and a stepped auditorium, was
surrounded by a high wall,
divided into individual storeys
by colonnaded arcades. The
complex was designed to seat
up to 20,000 people. In the 5th
century the inhabitants of Trier The ruins of Barbaratherme, ancient Roman baths
used the amphitheatre as a
place of refuge from the T Barbaratherme R St Paulin-Kirche
increasingly frequent raids by Südallee. Open Apr–Sep: 9am–6pm; Thebäerstraße. Tel (0651) 270 850.
Germanic tribes. Oct and Mar: 9am–5pm; Nov–Feb Open Mar–Sep: 9am–6pm Mon, Wed–
9am–4pm. & Sat, 11am–6pm Tue, 10am–6pm Sun;
R Heiligkreuzkapelle Not far from the Roman bridge Oct–Feb: 9am–5pm Mon, Wed–Sat,
Arnulfstraße/Rotbachstraße. across the Mosel River are the 11am–5pm Tue, 10am–7:30pm Sun.
The Chapel of the Holy Cross, ruins of the Barbara baths (2nd This church was built in the
in a secluded spot, is one of century AD). Although above 12th century, on the foun­
Trier’s more interesting historic ground not much has been dations of an older Christian
buildings. Built in the Roman­ preserved, the extensive system chapel. In 1674 it was blown up
esque style in the second half of underground heating by the French army. St Paulin, its
of the 11th century, at the channels, the hypocaustum, patron saint and bishop in Trier,
initiative of the parson of Arnulfa clearly demon strates the original was one of the few to voice his
Cathedral, it is a small building size of this public bath complex. opposition to the Aryan credo
with a ground plan in the shape In the Middle Ages, Patrician and of Emperor Constantine II, in
of the Greek cross and an octa­ aristocratic families transformed which he rejected the divinity of
gonal tower set within the cross. the baths into their residences. In Christ and proclaimed himself
Although it suffered serious the 17th century Jesuit monks alone to be made in God’s
damage during World War II, it dismantled the remaining image. Paulin did not meet with
was meticulously restored to its structures, and used the a martyr’s death, but was exiled
original state in the years 1957–8. recovered building materials to to Phrygia (now Turkey), where
construct their own college. he died in 358. The present
R Basilika St Matthias church, a true gem of Rococo
Matthiasstraße 85. Tel (0651) 170 90. T St Maximin-Kirche architecture, was designed by
Open 8am–7pm daily. Maximinstraße. Tel (0651) 979 07 90. Balthasar Neumann, who also
This church’s history dates back 8 obligatory. created the main altar.
to the 5th century, when it In the Middle Ages there were
became the burial place of as many as four abbeys in Trier.
St Eucharius, the first bishop of St Maximin Abbey was founded
Trier. From the 8th century, the on the burial site of its patron
church was run by Benedictine saint, who died in AD 325. The
monks. In the 10th–11th surviving church was built in
centuries a new church was the 13th century, on the found­
erected as burial site of the ations of the previous buildings.
relics of the apostle, St Matthew. Its Romanesque–Gothic forms
It was twice remodelled at the were partly obscured by the
turn of the 15th to 16th cent­ remodelling work carried out in
uries, when it acquired its rich 1580–1698. Now deconsecrated,
Gothic vaults. The present the church is used as a music
abbey dates from the 16th venue. It is possible to book
century. The shrine holding the guided tours of the atmospheric
apostle’s relics ensured that crypt. The Carolingian wall
the church became one of the paintings that originally adorned
most important destinations the crypt are now in the Museum Baroque ceiling paintings in the Rococo
for pilgrims in the region. am Dom Trier (see p344). St Paulin-Kirche




346-347_EW_Germany.indd 347 09/10/17 2:30 pm

348  WESTERN GERM AN Y RHINELAND–P ALA TINA TE & SAARLAND  349

2 Saarland Völklingen
Road map B6. * 43,500. 3 Moseltal
This German state, bordered by Luxembourg and France, n Neuen Bahnhof, Rathausstraße 55
was long disputed between France and Germany, but has (06898-132 800). The Mosel river, 545 km (338 miles) long, is one of
now been firmly integrated into the Federal Republic. Almost About 10 km (6 miles) west the longest tributaries of the Rhine. The Mosel valley
forgotten are its coal and steel industries, which declined in of Saarbrücken lies the small between Trier and Koblenz, where the Mosel flows
industrial town of Völklingen,
the 1960s and 70s. The region has seen a turbulent history – which was granted town status into the Rhine, is one of the most beautiful parts of
it was ruled in turn by Celts, Romans and Franks. In the in 1937. In 1881, Carl Röchling, a Germany. On both sides of the river, romantic castles
17th century, on the order of Louis XIV, Vauban built the native of Saarbrücken, bought tower over endless vineyards, where excellent white 2 Burg Thurant Near the town
town-fortress of Saarlouis. Saarbrücken, an 18th-century a small steel mill, the Völklinger grapes are grown – both are typical features of the of Alken stands Thurant castle,
town, is famous for its Baroque architecture, mostly created Hütte, which he soon devel- charming landscape. which was built in the 13th century.
It is the only twin-towered castle
oped as the heart of his family’s
by Friedrich Joachim Stengel. along the Mosel.
industrial empire. The steel mill
still exists, and in 1994 it became
a UNESCO World Heritage Site, 1 Matthias-Kapelle This late-Romanesque
listed as a historical object of chapel was once used to house the remains
international importance. of the Apostle Matthew. These were later
Another attraction is an early transferred to the Matthiaskirche in Trier.
20th-century housing estate.
5 Burg Pyrmont Pyrmont’s
Homburg grim 13th-century medieval
Road map B6. * 42,000. n Rat haus, castle was remodelled and
Am Forum 5 (06 841-10 11 66). extended several times
This town grew up around the during the Baroque era.
Hohenburg castle, which now
Von Nassau-Saarbrücken family tombs in Saarbrücken is just a picturesque ruin. In 6 Cochem The castle in
the Schloßberg nearby were Cochem, originally built in
Saarbrücken (1762–75) is one of the last unearthed the remains of a the 11th century, was
Road map B6. * 190,000. £ works completed by Stengel. fortress, which was built in 1680– completely destroyed by
n Rathaus St Johann, Rathausplatz 1 A true architectural gem, it is 92 by Sébastien Le Preste Vauban French soldiers in 1689. The
(0681-95 90 92 00). _ Max Ophüls- laid out in the shape of a on the orders of the French King present castle was rebuilt
Preis (Jan), Perspectives du Théâtre Greek cross. The Stiftskirche Louis XIV. The greatest attraction in the 19th century. J
(May), Saar Spektakel (Aug). ∑ St Arnual, in the southwestern of Homburg, however, is its
saarbruecken.de part of the town, contains Schloßberg caves, the largest
The capital of Saarland, the splendid Gothic and man-made caves in Europe, cut
Saarbrücken was first built as Renaissance tombs of the von into the red sandstone. J Mosal
the Franconian fortress of Nassau-Saarbrücken family. Baybach
Sarabrucca. The town, on the Since 1960 it has also featured a Ottweiler
Saar River, flourished in the 17th “German–French Garden”. One Road map B5. * 16,000.
and 18th century, under the of the garden’s entrances leads n Schloßhof 5 (06 824-35 11). Diinnbach
rule of Duke Wilhelm Heinrich to Gulliver-Miniwelt (miniature The small picturesque town of
von Nassau-Saarbrücken. world of Gulliver), where small Ottweiler has a beautifully J
The churches and other versions of the world’s most preserved old town. The Alter Bremm
prestigious buildings are largely famous buildings are exhibited. Turm (old tower), which in the
the work of Friedrich Joachim 15th century formed part of the 3 Ehrenburg The first
Stengel, court architect to the town’s fortifications, now serves fortress, rising to 235 m
von Nassau-Saarbrücken family. as a belfry to the parish church, (771 ft) above sea level, was
He designed the Catholic whose origins go back to the built in 1120. It was frequently
Basilika St Johann (1754–8) in 15th century. Its present Baroque remodelled in later years.
the market square, as well as form was the work of Friedrich 4 Burg Eltz The von Eltz family
the monumental Schloß, the Joachim Stengel from 1756–7. castle, whose history goes back Tips for Drivers
palace on the opposite bank of Rathausplatz is a beautifully to the 16th century, remains in
the Saar (1739–48). Its original, proportioned complex of historic private hands to this day, but it Length of the route: about
modern façade, created in 1989 houses, mostly the homes of is open to visitors. 75 km (46 miles).
after damage in World War II, wealthy citizens, dating from the 7 Burg Arras This fortress Stopping-off points: there are
is the work of the architect 17th and 18th centuries. Many was built around 900–950 Key numerous restaurants and cafés
Gottfried Böhm. have half-timbered upper halves. as part of the fortifications Suggested route in Cochem; small pubs can be
Opposite the Schloß stands The Altes Rathaus (old town hall, against frequent pillaging Scenic route found along the entire route.
the Altes Rathaus (old town 1714) combines two different raids by Normans. Other road Additional attractions: a boat
hall), dating from 1748–50, building methods – the base is trip on the Mosel River, from
which today houses an inter- stone, the top half-timbered. In 0 km 5 River, lake Koblenz to Cochem or Trier.
esting museum of ethno graphy. Völklinger Hütte, the historic steelworks Schloßplatz is the Renaissance 0 miles 5 Viewpoint
The Protestant Ludwigskirche in Völklingen Hesse Haus (around 1590).
For hotels and restaurants in this area see p499 and pp524–5


348-349_EW_Germany.indd 348 09/10/17 2:30 pm 348-349_EW_Germany.indd 349 09/10/17 2:30 pm
Eyewitness Travel LAYERS PRINTED:
Catalogue template “UK” LAYER
(Source v2.3)
Date 6th February 2013
Size 125mm x 217mm