(DK Eyewitness) Travel Guide - Germany

L OWER SA X ON Y , HA MBURG AND BREMEN  449


Marktkirche St Georg und St VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
Jacobus (church of St George
and St Jacob) features a Practical Information
14th-century nave with a Road map: C3. * 522,000. n
charac teristic four-pinnacled Ernst-August-Platz 8 & Tramm platz
tower. The most valuable 11 (0511-123 45-111). ( Sat. _
object among its furnishings Schützenfest (Jun/Jul), Maschsee-
is the Gothic altar, with scenes fest (Jul/Aug). ∑ hannover.de
of the Passion and copper Transport
engravings by the renowned £ Ernst-August-Platz.
artist Martin Schongauer.

Y Herrenhäuser Gärten Garten, the most important of
Despite having been razed to the four gardens, has a formal
the ground during World War II, layout modelled on 17th- and
Interior of the church of St Georg und the gardens in Hanover’s 18th-century Dutch parks. It is a
St Jacobus, in Marktplatz Herrenhausen district are among botanical garden with fountains,
the most beautiful Baroque including the Große Fontäne, the
in World War II, and now gardens in Germany. They were tallest in Europe with an 82-m
serves as headquarters for established by Duchess Sophie (269-ft) water spout. There are
the Niedersächsischer Landtag von der Pfalz, daughter of grottoes, mazes, sculptures and
(Lower Saxony state parliament). Elizabeth Stuart and mother of decorative urns, and the hedges
The porticos on the façade England’s George I. The Großer are some 21 km (13 miles) long.
were modelled on ancient
Greek temples.

P Marktplatz
Although the houses on this
square had to be almost
completely rebuilt after World
War II, this is one of the best
examples of 15th-century red-
brick architecture, with ama zing
gables with projections as well
as figurative friezes of glazed
terracotta. Nearby, the The stunningly beautiful Baroque gardens in Herrenhausen


GOETHESTR. GEORGSTRASSE GROSSE PACKHOF STR. 200 m (220 yards)
HEILIGERSTR.
Flughafen AM MARSTALL LIMBURGSTR. BAHNHOFSTR. Hauptbahnhof Künstlerhaus
OPERN-
5 km (3 miles) PLATZ
Herrenhaüser Gärten SCHMIEDESTRASSE Opernhaus
KRÖPCKE
DERSTR.
Kreuzkirche SEILWIN- Kröpcke Börse
Leine
KNOCHENHAUERSTR. Marktkirche
Ballhof Altes WINDMÜHLENSTR. RATHENAUSTR.
AM HOHEN UFER
LEIBNIZUFER Historisches
KRAMERSTR. Rathaus BARINGSTR. GEORGS
PLATZ
Museum O S T E R S T R A S S E
Leibnizhaus MARKT- Markthalle/ 0 metres 300
SCHLOSSSTR. LEINSTRASSE Aegidientor- 0 yards 300
Landtag
PLATZ
platz
BREITE STR.
Leineschloss KARMARSCHSTR. Markthalle MAR K T S TR. AEGIDIENTORPLATZ
Wangenheim-
palais
Laveshaus
FRIEDRICHSTRASSE
F R I E D R I C H S W A L L
Kestner-
Museum
Hanover City Centre Neues BLEICHENSTRASSE
Rathaus WILLY-BRANDT-ALLEE
1 Opernhaus Maschpark
2 Niedersächsisches
Landesmuseum C U L EM A N N S T R Maschteich Niedersächsisches
3 Sprengel Museum Landesmuseum
4 Neues Rathaus A S S E
5 Leineschloß Sprengel-
Museum
6 Marktplatz
For keys to symbols see back flap
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452  NOR THERN GERM AN Y L OWER SA X ON Y , HA MBURG AND BREMEN  453

a Hildesheim soaring proportions. The 115­m the New Testament on the VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
(377­ft) tower was added in the other. The Bernwardsäule, a
The undisputed capital of Romanesque culture, the old town 19th century. huge bronze column from 1022, Practical Information
of Hildesheim was transformed into a heap of rubble by R Michaeliskirche was once topped by a crucifix. Road map C3. * 106,000.
n Rathausstraße 18–20 (05121-
The column, with scenes from
heavy bombing on 22 March 1945. The most important Michaelisplatz. Tel (05121) 34 410. the life of Christ arranged as a 179 80). _ Jazz-Time (Whitsun);
monuments have now been recreated, with mixed results, Open Apr–Oct: 8am–6pm daily; spiralling picture story, recalls Klosterkonzert (Whitsun);
surrounded by modern developments. Two churches, the Nov–Mar: 9am–4pm daily. the column of Emperor Trajan in Weinfest (May); Bauernmarkt
Michaeliskirche and the Dom St Mariä, are UNESCO World Built on the instructions of Rome. Two further important (Sep); Drachenflugtag (Oct).
∑ hildesheim.de
Heritage sites, and the Roemer-Pelizaeus-Museum of Bishop Bernward, the church is works of art are a chandelier
Egyptian Culture also makes a visit to Hildesheim worthwhile. a textbook example of what from 1060, with a diameter Transport
became known as the Ottonian of 3 m (10 ft), and a baptismal £ Bahnhofsplatz.
style, the early Romanesque font (around 1225) based on the
longer than around 4–5 hours. culture of the Otto dynasty. Its personifications of the four
It is also possible to follow the characteristic feature is the rivers of the Garden of Eden. Founded by bishop Hezilo and
Rosenroute (rose trail) around streamlined simplicity of interior built in the years 1058–68, the
town which is marked on the and exterior, with square pillars R Godehardkirche church has enchanting cloisters,
pavements by white roses. intersecting with the naves. The Godehardsplatz. Tel (05121) 34578. dating from the 12th century,
sarco phagus of the founder, St Open 9am–6pm daily. and the sarcophagus of the
P Marktplatz Bernward, is in the crypt in the The Bernwardsäule in the Dom St Mariä – This church is dedicated to founder of the church.
Since gaining civic rights in western part of the church. a huge bronze column Bernward’s successor, bishop
the 11th century, Luckily, a rare Godehard, who like him has
the heart of the painted 12th­ alongside it. The Tausendjähriger been included in the canon
bishopric town century ceiling Rosenstock (1,000-year-old of saints. Built in 1133–72, it is
has been its was removed rose) of this legend grows to typical of local architecture,
market square. during World War II this day in the cathedral’s apse, and also recalls the earlier
Every detail has and thus largely and even survived bombing. church of St Michaelis. It has
now been faithfully survived. It depicts The cathedral was reconstructed interesting carved capitals as
Wedekindhaus, a beautiful half-timbered reconstructed, and it the story of after World War II, using a well as a northern doorway
house on Marktplatz is easy to forget that Redemption, from model of the church’s with the Blessed Jesus Christ
the square looked Bas-relief on the façade Adam and Eve 11th-century appearance. accompanied by St Godehard
Exploring Hildesheim totally different only of Andreaskirche through to Mary Original works of art bear and St Epiphany.
Contrary to received wisdom, a few years ago. In and the Saviour. witness to the cathedral’s foundry
the city is best visited on foot. 1987, the Knochenhaueramts­ which flourished under bishop R Mauritiuskirche
Visitors can park in the centre, haus (butchers’ guild hall) was E Roemer-Pelizaeus Bernward. Bronze double doors Moritzberg.
for example near the church of rebuilt, the largest and most Museum depict the Old Testament version Another Romanesque church
St Michael, and then explore famous half­timbered house in Am Steine 1. Tel (05121) 93 690. of the Creation on one side, and worth visiting is the church of Presbytery of the massive Gode hardkirche,
the main sights from here. Germany, dating from 1529. Open 10am–6pm Tue–Sun. the life of Christ accor ding to St Maurice, west of the centre. flanked by towers
A round tour, inc luding the Opposite are the Gothic town The pride of this museum is the
museums, should not take hall and the Tempelhaus, an Ancient Egyptian collection, one
original 15th­century of the best in Europe, which Hildesheim City Hauptbahnhof
building with round includes the burial figures of Centre 800 m (880 yards)
turrets and a half­ Hem Om and the writer Heti MICHAELISSTR. Knochen- JAKOBISTRASSE
MARKT-
timbered annexe, from the Old Kingdom (around 1 Marktplatz Michaeliskirche KARDINAL-BER TRA M - STR. haueramtshaus PLATZ Rathaus
added in 1591. Reliefs 2600 BC). It also has fine 2 Andreaskirche LANGER HAGEN Tempelhaus
depict the story of the collections of Chinese porcelain 3 Michaeliskirche WOHL Kaiser- ANDREAS- HOHER WEG
STRASSE
haus
Prodigal Son. and Inca artifacts, and it is 4 Roemer-Pelizaeus- ALTER MARKT AMRATS- BAUHOF Z I N G E L
famed for its temporary Museum STRASSE BURGSTR. Andreaskirche
R Andreaskirche exhibitions on ancient cultures. 5 Dom St Mariä BERGMANN- SCHUHSTRASSE
SÜSTERN-
Andreasplatz. Open Apr– 6 Godehardkirche STRASSE P FA F FENSTIEG
Dom
Sep: 9am–6pm Mon–Fri, R Dom St Mariä DAMMSTR. St Mariä BOHLWEG Kreuzkirche
9am–4pm Sat, 11:30am– Domhof. Tel (05121) 179 17 60.
4pm Sun; Oct–Mar: 10am– Open 10am–6pm daily. ∑ dom- Mauritiuskirche B R Ü H L WEIGER STR.
BRAUNSCH-
Roemer-
4pm Mon–Sat, 11:30–4pm hildesheim.de 0 metres 300 Pelizaeus- Dom- und
Sun. Tower May–Oct: 11am– During a hunting expedition in 0 yards 300 museum T R E I B E S TR. Diözesanmuseum WOLLENWEBER S T R .
4 pm Mon–Sat, noon–4pm 815, Ludwig der Fromme (the NEUE STR. Lambertikirche
Sun. Closed Nov–Apr. Haus des GOSCHENSTRASSE
devout), son of Charlemagne, Kalenberger Graben Waffenschieds
The reconstructed allegedly hung relics of the Wernesches Kehrwiederturm
K ESSL ER STR AS SE
Haus
Gothic church of St Virgin Mary on a tree. When he KA LEN BE R G ER G RABEN
L A N G E L I N I E N W A L L
Andrew is notable for tried to remove them they Godehardkirche
the brightness and the would not budge – which he
quality of the light that took to be a heavenly sign
The picturesque Presbytery of passes through its vast that a church should be
Michaeliskirche, Hildescheim windows, as well as its founded on this site and a town
A church towers over a row of houses in Kramer Straße, Hanover For keys to symbols see back flap For hotels and restaurants in this area see pp501–502 and pp529–31
452-453_EW_Germany.indd 452 09/10/17 2:34 pm 452-453_EW_Germany.indd 453 09/10/17 2:34 pm
Eyewitness Travel LAYERS PRINTED:
Catalogue template “UK” LAYER
(Source v2.2)
Date 15th January 2013
Size 125mm x 217mm

L OWER SA X ON Y , HA MBURG AND BREMEN  453


the New Testament on the VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
other. The Bernwardsäule, a
huge bronze column from 1022, Practical Information
was once topped by a crucifix. Road map C3. * 106,000.
The column, with scenes from n Rathausstraße 18–20 (05121-
the life of Christ arranged as a 179 80). _ Jazz-Time (Whitsun);
spiralling picture story, recalls Klosterkonzert (Whitsun);
the column of Emperor Trajan in Weinfest (May); Bauernmarkt
Rome. Two further important (Sep); Drachenflugtag (Oct).
∑ hildesheim.de
works of art are a chandelier
from 1060, with a diameter Transport
of 3 m (10 ft), and a baptismal £ Bahnhofsplatz.
font (around 1225) based on the
personifications of the four
rivers of the Garden of Eden. Founded by bishop Hezilo and
built in the years 1058–68, the
R Godehardkirche church has enchanting cloisters,
Godehardsplatz. Tel (05121) 34578. dating from the 12th century,
Open 9am–6pm daily. and the sarcophagus of the
The Bernwardsäule in the Dom St Mariä – This church is dedicated to founder of the church.
a huge bronze column Bernward’s successor, bishop
Godehard, who like him has
alongside it. The Tausendjähriger been included in the canon
Rosenstock (1,000-year-old of saints. Built in 1133–72, it is
rose) of this legend grows to typical of local architecture,
this day in the cathedral’s apse, and also recalls the earlier
and even survived bombing. church of St Michaelis. It has
The cathedral was reconstructed interesting carved capitals as
after World War II, using a well as a northern doorway
model of the church’s with the Blessed Jesus Christ
11th-century appearance. accompanied by St Godehard
Original works of art bear and St Epiphany.
witness to the cathedral’s foundry
which flourished under bishop R Mauritiuskirche
Bernward. Bronze double doors Moritzberg.
depict the Old Testament version Another Romanesque church
of the Creation on one side, and worth visiting is the church of Presbytery of the massive Gode hardkirche,
the life of Christ accor ding to St Maurice, west of the centre. flanked by towers

Hildesheim City Hauptbahnhof
800 m (880 yards)
Centre JAKOBISTRASSE
MICHAELISSTR. Knochen- MARKT-
1 Marktplatz Michaeliskirche KARDINAL-BER TRA M - STR. haueramtshaus PLATZ
2 Andreaskirche LANGER HAGEN Rathaus
3 Michaeliskirche Kaiser- STRASSE HOHER WEG Tempelhaus
ANDREAS-
haus
4 Roemer-Pelizaeus- WOHL ALTER MARKT AMRATS- BAUHOF Z I N G E L
Museum STRASSE BURGSTR. Andreaskirche
5 Dom St Mariä BERGMANN- SCHUHSTRASSE
SÜSTERN-
6 Godehardkirche STRASSE P FA F FENSTIEG BOHLWEG Kreuzkirche
Dom
DAMMSTR. St Mariä
Mauritiuskirche B R Ü H L BRAUNSCH-
0 metres 300 Roemer- WEIGER STR.
Pelizaeus- Dom- und
0 yards 300 museum T R E I B E S TR. Diözesanmuseum WOLLENWEBER S T R .
NEUE STR. Lambertikirche
Haus des GOSCHENSTRASSE
Waffenschieds
Wernesches K ESSL ER STR AS SE
Haus Kehrwiederturm
Kalenberger Graben
L A N G E L I N I E N W A L L
Godehardkirche
KA LEN BE R G ER G RABEN
For keys to symbols see back flap For hotels and restaurants in this area see pp501–502 and pp529–31
452-453_EW_Germany.indd 453 09/10/17 2:34 pm

454  NOR THERN GERM AN Y L OWER SA X ON Y , HA MBURG & BREMEN  455

s Street-by-Street: Goslar VISITORS’ CHECKLIST P Siemenshaus
Schreiberstraße 12. Tel (05321) 780
Guildhouse
Goslar, at the foot of the Harz mountains, is a captivating town with (Hotel Kaiserworth) Practical Information 620. Closed to the public; call for
a tour.
1,500 charming, half-timbered houses, the largest number in Road map: D3. * 46,000.
Germany. For 300 years the Holy Roman Emperors of Jakobikirche n Markt 7 (05321-780 60). _ This half-timbered house, one of
Goslarer Tag der Kleinkunst (Jun);
Germany resided in Goslar, a member of the Hanseatic Internationales Musikfest (Aug). the most attractive, was once
owned by the Siemens family
League also known as “the treasure chest of the Transport who have their roots in Goslar.
North”. Goslar’s main source of wealth was the £ Hans Siemens built it in 1693.
nearby mine in Rammelsberg, where zinc, The underground train into the mine at
copper and especially silver were mined. R St Peter and Paul the Bergbaumuseum Rammelsberg
The townscape has remained largely Frankenberger Platz. P Breites Tor
unchanged, making it a great Located in the Frankenberg Breite Straße.
neighbourhood, this was one of
tourist attraction as well as a 47 churches which once stood in Some parts of the defensive
UNESCO World Heritage Site. the town. It was built in the 12th system, dating mainly from
M A R K T century, and the tympanum of around 1500, are well preserved.
This “wide gate”, seen on the
the south portal dates from this
period. Extensively refurbished, eastern approach to the town, is
the church prides itself on its the most imposing part.
magnificent Baroque furnishings.
P St Annen-Stift
R St Jakobi Glockengiesserstraße 65. Tel (05321)
Jakobi-Kirchhof. Tel (05321) 303 672. 398 700. Open 10am–noon Mon,
Open 9:30am–4pm daily. Thu, Fri.
The present appearance of this The hospice of St Anna for
H
. Rathaus O church, the only Catholic one in orphans, the elderly and infirm
On the western side of the market H E Goslar, is the result of Gothic was founded in 1494 and is the
square stands the 15th-century town R . Historic Half- additions, although the structure oldest preserved half-timbered
hall. Its beautiful Huldigungsaal (hall Timbered Houses of the walls remains Romanesque. house in Germany. Behind its
W
of homage) has a ceiling and walls E Many charming half- The famous work of art in the picturesque façade is a beautiful
with Gothic frescoes. G timbered buildings church is the Pietà by Hans von small chapel with superb
from various periods Witten, but it is also worth paintings on a wooden ceiling.
have survived in Goslar, looking at the wall paintings, the
creating compact rows organ and the baptismal font. E Bergbaumuseum
Siemens­ of houses in the streets
haus of the city centre. R Neuwerkkirche Rammelsberg
Bergtal 19. Tel (05321) 750 122.
Rosentorstraße 27a. Tel (05321) 228 39. Open 9am–6pm daily
Open Mar–Oct: 10am–noon & 2:30– Goslar’s mining museum is
K A I S E R B L E E K 4:30pm Mon–Sat; 2:30–4:30pm Sun. based in the 10th-century
This impressive late-Romanesque silver mine. One of the oldest
church was built in the 12th–13th industrial structures in the
DOM centuries for the Cistercian Order, world, it is a UNESCO World
T H O M A S S T R A S S E E buildings date from the early 18th mining tools and utensils used
T H O M A S S T R A S S
PL A TZ St Annen Stift although the surviving monastic Heritage Site. On display are
century. Inside, the wall paintings in various periods. Visitors can
take a train ride through the
and the choir partition are of
. Marktkirche interest. The church is surrounded mine and learn about the
by a peaceful garden.
history of mining.
The Gothic Church of Saints Cosmas
and Damian has Romanesque
stained-glass windows and a bronze
Renaissance baptismal font. Statue of the
Emperor
Barbarossa
Key
Suggested route
0 metres 50
The Kaiserpfalz
The Emperors’ palace is a stone building 0 yards 50
(1005–15), largely rebuilt in the 19th
century. The chapel and the Emperors’ hall
with its superb paintings are worth seeing. The above-ground buildings of the silver mine in Rammelsberg
For hotels and restaurants in this area see pp501–502 and pp529–31
454-455_EW_Germany.indd 454 09/10/17 12:50 pm 454-455_EW_Germany.indd 455 09/10/17 12:50 pm

L OWER SA X ON Y , HA MBURG & BREMEN  455

P Siemenshaus
VISITORS’ CHECKLIST Schreiberstraße 12. Tel (05321) 780
620. Closed to the public; call for
Practical Information a tour.
Road map: D3. * 46,000.
n Markt 7 (05321-780 60). _ This half-timbered house, one of
Goslarer Tag der Kleinkunst (Jun); the most attractive, was once
Internationales Musikfest (Aug). owned by the Siemens family
Transport who have their roots in Goslar.
£ Hans Siemens built it in 1693.
The underground train into the mine at
R St Peter and Paul the Bergbaumuseum Rammelsberg
Frankenberger Platz.
Located in the Frankenberg P Breites Tor
neighbourhood, this was one of Breite Straße.
47 churches which once stood in Some parts of the defensive
the town. It was built in the 12th system, dating mainly from
century, and the tympanum of around 1500, are well preserved.
the south portal dates from this This “wide gate”, seen on the
period. Extensively refurbished, eastern approach to the town, is
the church prides itself on its the most imposing part.
magnificent Baroque furnishings.
P St Annen-Stift
R St Jakobi Glockengiesserstraße 65. Tel (05321)
Jakobi-Kirchhof. Tel (05321) 303 672. 398 700. Open 10am–noon Mon,
Open 9:30am–4pm daily. Thu, Fri.
The present appearance of this The hospice of St Anna for
church, the only Catholic one in orphans, the elderly and infirm
Goslar, is the result of Gothic was founded in 1494 and is the
. Historic Half- additions, although the structure oldest preserved half-timbered
Timbered Houses of the walls remains Romanesque. house in Germany. Behind its
Many charming half- The famous work of art in the picturesque façade is a beautiful
timbered buildings church is the Pietà by Hans von small chapel with superb
from various periods Witten, but it is also worth paintings on a wooden ceiling.
have survived in Goslar, looking at the wall paintings, the
creating compact rows organ and the baptismal font. E Bergbaumuseum
of houses in the streets Rammelsberg
of the city centre. R Neuwerkkirche Bergtal 19. Tel (05321) 750 122.
Rosentorstraße 27a. Tel (05321) 228 39. Open 9am–6pm daily
Open Mar–Oct: 10am–noon & 2:30– Goslar’s mining museum is
4:30pm Mon–Sat; 2:30–4:30pm Sun. based in the 10th-century
This impressive late-Romanesque silver mine. One of the oldest
church was built in the 12th–13th industrial structures in the
centuries for the Cistercian Order, world, it is a UNESCO World
T H O M A S S T R A S S E buildings date from the early 18th mining tools and utensils used
St Annen Stift
although the surviving monastic
Heritage Site. On display are
century. Inside, the wall paintings in various periods. Visitors can
take a train ride through the
and the choir partition are of
interest. The church is surrounded
history of mining.
by a peaceful garden. mine and learn about the






0 metres 50
0 yards 50

The above-ground buildings of the silver mine in Rammelsberg




454-455_EW_Germany.indd 455 09/10/17 12:50 pm

456  NOR THERN GERM AN Y L OWER SA X ON Y , HA MBURG AND BREMEN  457

d Einbeck 1737 by the English King
Road map C3. * 29,400. £ George II, who was also the h The Weser Renaissance Trail
n Rathaus, Markt Straße 13 (05561- ruler of Hanover, the university
313 19 10). ∑ einbeck.de taught the sons of wealthy The Weser Renaissance is an architectural and
German, English and Russian decorative style of northern Germany, dating from
In the Middle Ages, this town aristocrats. Important cultural the mid-16th to the mid-17th century. Its tall roofs and
had 600 breweries – more than figures worked here, including
houses – and today it is still the writer Heinrich Heine, the gables were inspired by Dutch architecture, although
known for its beers; Bockbier, brothers Grimm and the explorer it has many original features: the Zwerchhäuser (bay
the famous German strong Alexander von Humboldt. windows, one or more storeys high), the Utlucht
beer, was invented here. Burned Göttingen’s reputation as an (prot ruding sections of the façade),
down in 1540 and 1549, the educational centre continues lavish decorations and multi-
town was subsequently rebuilt today, partly due to the esta- wing castles, some with
in a uniformly Renaissance style. blishment of the Max Planck WESERGEBIRGE
The historic town centre is Institute, named after the scientist spiral staircases in
enclosed by the city walls. who was born in the city and their towers.
More than 100 half-timbered developed the quantum theory.
houses have survived to this Göttingen is a lively town The twin-towered Gothic façade of
day. Eickesches Haus thanks to its student popul- St Cyriakus in Duderstadt
(Marktstraße 13) is ation, with dozens of cafés, 1 Hameln
particularly eye-catching, cosmopolitan restaurants g Duderstadt Rattenfängerhaus (rat
with a sculpted façade and bars. University Road map C4. * 24,500. £ catcher’s house),
based on biblical and buildings are scattered n Marktstraße 66 (05527-84 12 00). Weser Hochzeitshaus (wedding
Classical stories. Other all over town, and the Emmer house) and Demptersches
picturesque houses Aula, a Neo-Classical To the south of the Harz Haus (Dempsters’ house)
are good examples of
can be found in Assembly Hall, is mountains, not far from the Weser Renaissance
Tiedexer Straße and worth a visit. On the former border with style. The Romanesque-
in Marktplatz. The the Marktplatz in East Germany, lies this often Gothic Münster
latter boasts the Rathaus the town centre stands overlooked gem. A walk around (collegiate church) is
(town hall) and the the Rathaus (town the medieval town is best also worth seeing.
Rats waage (muni- Stone crest on hall) with a Gothic started on Obermarkt (upper
cipal weigh house) Göttingen’s Rathaus stone façade. The market). Here stands the half-
and Ratsapotheke Gänseliesel- timbered Rathaus (town hall), 2 Hämelschenburg
(chemist). The tower of the brunnen, the goose girl with an interesting façade and The castle, built
neighbouring Pfarrkirche fountain, in front dates from spiky towers. Inside it has 3 Bevern Weser in 1588–1612, is a
St Jakobi (parish church) leans 1901. It is kissed by students exhibition halls and a cultural Another gem of the Weser SOLLING three-winged building,
1.5 m (5 ft) from the erpendicular. who have passed their exams, centre. East of the town hall Renaissance style, the castle surrounded by a moat.
In 1741, a Baroque façade was and much loved by tourists. rises the Catholic Probsteikir- in Bevern, near Holzminden, It has an impressive
added to hide this. From the southeastern end of che St Cyriakus with its rich was built from Prussian ex terior with towers
the market square, Göttingen’s interior of altars and 15 Baroque stone in the years 1602–12. and decorative gables;
Environs four main churches can be seen: statues. St Servatius, its It has four wings as well as its original interiors
are also preserved.
15 km (9 miles) from Einbeck St Michael to the south, St Jakobi Protestant counterpart, two towers in the corners
is the spa town of Bad to the north, St Johannis to the combines Gothic architecture of its courtyard. Diemel
Gandersheim. It grew up west and St Albani to the east. with a Secessionist interior.
around a Benedictine The latter two boast late-Gothic Nearby is the Westertorturm,
monastery established here in altars worth visiting. Together, the only surviving town gate.
852, which in the 10th century they testify to Göttingen’s Its strangely spiralling finial
was the home of Roswitha von early importance is not a decorative feature, Weser
Gandersheim, the first known during the but the consequence of a
German dramatist. Middle Ages. weakness in its design.

f Göttingen
Road map C4. * 129,000. £
n Altes Rathaus, Markt 9 (0551-499 Tips for Drivers
800). _ Händel-Festspiele (Jun);
Literaturherbst (Oct), Jazzfestival 4 Münden Starting point: Hameln.
(Nov); student festivals, such as The principal buildings that exemplify the Length: 112 km (70 miles).
Stiftungsfest. ∑ goettingen.de Weser Renaissance style are the town hall Stopping-off places: good
and the castle, now a regional museum restaurants and bistros can be
Along with Tübingen, Marburg with a collection of ceramics. Fragments found in all the towns and
and Heidelberg, Göttingen is one of a Renaissance fresco of Duke Eryk II of 0 km 20 villages along the route.
of the most renowned German Calenberg can also be admired here. 0 miles 20
university towns. Established in The Gothic Rathaus on Marktplatz in Göttingen
For hotels and restaurants in this area see pp501–502 and pp529–31


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L OWER SA X ON Y , HA MBURG AND BREMEN  457


h The Weser Renaissance Trail

The Weser Renaissance is an architectural and
decorative style of northern Germany, dating from
the mid-16th to the mid-17th century. Its tall roofs and
gables were inspired by Dutch architecture, although
it has many original features: the Zwerchhäuser (bay
windows, one or more storeys high), the Utlucht
(prot ruding sections of the façade),
lavish decorations and multi-
wing castles, some with
spiral staircases in WESERGEBIRGE
their towers.


1 Hameln
Rattenfängerhaus (rat
catcher’s house),
Hochzeitshaus (wedding
Emmer Weser house) and Demptersches
Haus (Dempsters’ house)
are good examples of
the Weser Renaissance
style. The Romanesque-
Gothic Münster
(collegiate church) is
also worth seeing.

2 Hämelschenburg
The castle, built
Weser in 1588–1612, is a
3 Bevern three-winged building,
Another gem of the Weser SOLLING surrounded by a moat.
Renaissance style, the castle It has an impressive
in Bevern, near Holzminden, ex terior with towers
was built from Prussian and decorative gables;
stone in the years 1602–12. its original interiors
It has four wings as well as are also preserved.
two towers in the corners
Diemel Weser
of its courtyard.










Tips for Drivers
4 Münden Starting point: Hameln.
The principal buildings that exemplify the Length: 112 km (70 miles).
Weser Renaissance style are the town hall Stopping-off places: good
and the castle, now a regional museum restaurants and bistros can be
with a collection of ceramics. Fragments found in all the towns and
of a Renaissance fresco of Duke Eryk II of 0 km 20 villages along the route.
Calenberg can also be admired here. 0 miles 20






456-457_EW_Germany.indd 457 09/10/17 12:50 pm

NOR THERN GERM AN Y  459

SCHLESWIG-

HOLSTEIN


Schleswig-Holstein is the northernmost German state, situated
between the Baltic and the North Sea and bordered by the Elbe
River and Denmark. Weather-beaten by the unstable marine
climate, the Gothic brick buildings of Lübeck, queen of the Baltic coast, testify
equally to the turbulent history of this region. Today, tourists visit Schleswig-
Holstein for its wide sandy beaches and impressive lakes.

Originally, this state comprised two Schleswig­Holstein is principally an
territories: Schleswig in the north, which agricultural region, and less densely
was inhab ited by Germanic tribes (Angles, populated than any other state in Germany.
Saxons, Vikings and Danes) in the Middle Art lovers are mainly drawn to Lübeck, the
Ages, and Holstein in the south, mainly most powerful Hanseatic town in the
populated by Slavs, who converted to Baltic during the Middle Ages. Lübeck’s
Christianity as late as the 12th century. Its old town, an architectural gem, has now
more recent history was characterized by been listed as a UNESCO World Heritage
struggles between the Hanseatic towns site. Other places offer surprises aplenty –
and the rulers of Denmark. In the 18th cen­ the visitor will be captivated by the
tury, the entire region, from Altona in the Romanesque churches around Flensburg,
south (now part of Hamburg) to Kolding while the magnificent countryside more
in the north, belonged to Denmark, but in than compensates for the lack of major
1866 it was annexed to Bismarck’s Prussia. cultural monuments. A walk through the
In 1920, the political borders that exist national park of Schleswig­Holsteinisches
today were established when Denmark Wattenmeer, the moving sand dunes of
regained the northern part of Schleswig the elegant island of Sylt, or a romantic
after a plebiscite, leaving a significant sunset on the lake shores in Plön will
Danish minority on the German side. leave lasting impressions.

























The moated Renaissance Wasserschloß in Glücksburg
Aerial view of a mudflat on Süderoogsand, one of the North Frisian islands



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Eyewitness Travel LAYERS PRINTED:
Regional intro template V2 “UK” LAYER
(OpenType)
Date 10th November 2006
Size 125mm x 217mm

NOR THERN GERM AN Y  459

SCHLESWIG-

HOLSTEIN


Schleswig-Holstein is the northernmost German state, situated
between the Baltic and the North Sea and bordered by the Elbe
River and Denmark. Weather-beaten by the unstable marine
climate, the Gothic brick buildings of Lübeck, queen of the Baltic coast, testify
equally to the turbulent history of this region. Today, tourists visit Schleswig-
Holstein for its wide sandy beaches and impressive lakes.

Originally, this state comprised two Schleswig­Holstein is principally an
territories: Schleswig in the north, which agricultural region, and less densely
was inhab ited by Germanic tribes (Angles, populated than any other state in Germany.
Saxons, Vikings and Danes) in the Middle Art lovers are mainly drawn to Lübeck, the
Ages, and Holstein in the south, mainly most powerful Hanseatic town in the
populated by Slavs, who converted to Baltic during the Middle Ages. Lübeck’s
Christianity as late as the 12th century. Its old town, an architectural gem, has now
more recent history was characterized by been listed as a UNESCO World Heritage
struggles between the Hanseatic towns site. Other places offer surprises aplenty –
and the rulers of Denmark. In the 18th cen­ the visitor will be captivated by the
tury, the entire region, from Altona in the Romanesque churches around Flensburg,
south (now part of Hamburg) to Kolding while the magnificent countryside more
in the north, belonged to Denmark, but in than compensates for the lack of major
1866 it was annexed to Bismarck’s Prussia. cultural monuments. A walk through the
In 1920, the political borders that exist national park of Schleswig­Holsteinisches
today were established when Denmark Wattenmeer, the moving sand dunes of
regained the northern part of Schleswig the elegant island of Sylt, or a romantic
after a plebiscite, leaving a significant sunset on the lake shores in Plön will
Danish minority on the German side. leave lasting impressions.

























The moated Renaissance Wasserschloß in Glücksburg
Aerial view of a mudflat on Süderoogsand, one of the North Frisian islands



458-459_EW_Germany.indd 459 09/10/17 2:34 pm

460  NOR THERN GERM AN Y SCHLESWIG-HOLSTEIN  461

Exploring Schleswig-Holstein Key
Motorway
Undoubtedly the greatest attraction in this two-part state is Main road
Lübeck, and at least one day should be set aside to visit this Minor road
town. Kiel is a popular destination during the annual Kieler Main railway
Woche, the world’s largest sailing festival. The sun-kissed island Minor railway
of Sylt invites the visitor to linger for a few days, while the National border
stunning scenery of Helgoland is best explored in a one-day Regional border
trip from Cuxhaven or Büsum. Hotels in the larger towns,
such as Schleswig, Kiel or Flensburg, and many provincial
boarding houses, provide a good base for excursions.
EsbjergEsbjerg

WesterlandWesterland Ferries departing for excursions from the harbour in Kiel
SYLTSYLT
SeebüllSeebüll
GlücksburgGlücksburg
NiebüllNiebüll
FLENSBURGFLENSBURG
LeckLeck
FöhrFöhr N o rdfriesland
Wyk aufWyk auf
FöhrFöhr KappelnKappeln
AmrumAmrum
N o rdfriesland
TarpTarp
N
N
HalligenHalligen BredstedtBredstedt SchleiSchlei
O
O
R
R
PellwormPellworm SCHLESWIGSCHLESWIG PuttgardenPuttgarden
T
T
HusumHusum
NordstrandNordstrand EckernfördeEckernförde Kieler BuchtKieler Bucht FehmarnFehmarn
H
H
Traditional buildings in Plön, the main town in the Holstein Treene Treene

Burg
Switzerland Nature Reserve OwschlagOwschlag GettorfGettorf Burg

AltenholzAltenholz HeiligenhafenHeiligenhafen


St Peter-St Peter-
Eider

OrdingOrding
Eider
Selenter
TonningTonning RendsburgRendsburg KIELKIEL Selenter

See
See
Getting Around OldenburgOldenburg
Nord-Ostee-Kanal

The nearest international airport is Hamburg. S HeideHeide Nord-Ostee-Kanal PreetzPreetz
S
Two motorways bisect Schleswig­Holstein: E PlönPlön
E
leaving Hamburg and the long queues for A BüsumBüsum NortorfNortorf BordesholmBordesholm EutinEutin
HOLSTEINISCHE
A
GrosserGrosser
the Elbe Tunnel behind, the E47 (No 7) takes HemmingstedtHemmingstedt NordhastedtNordhastedt Plöner SeePlöner See HOLSTEINISCHE NeustadtNeustadt

SCHWEIZ
the visitor to Kiel and via Flensburg on to the HELGOLANDHELGOLAND NeumünsterNeumünster BosauBosau SCHWEIZ
Danish peninsula of Jutland, while the E22 TrischenTrischen MELDORFMELDORF SCHLESWIG-SCHLESWIG- LübeckerLübecker
(turning off the E47) leads via Lübeck to the FriedrichskoogFriedrichskoog BurgBurg BuchtBucht
Danish capital, Copenhagen. HOLSTEINHOLSTEIN
ScharhörnScharhörn BadBad
NeuwerkNeuwerk BadBad SchwartauSchwartau
BrunsbüttelBrunsbüttel ItzehoeItzehoe SegebergSegeberg
Elbe Stör Stör LÜBECK
Elbe
LÜBECK
KaltenkirchenKaltenkirchen BadBad
OldesloeOldesloe
GLÜCKSTADTGLÜCKSTADT
RatzeburgerRatzeburger
ElmshornElmshorn SeeSee
Sights at a Glance NorderstedtNorderstedt RATZEBURGRATZEBURG
1 Helgoland p462 PinnebergPinneberg AhrensburgAhrensburg
2 Glückstadt TrittauTrittau SchaalseeSchaalsee
3 Meldorf WedelWedel HamburgHamburg
4 Sylt Reinbek SchwarzenbekSchwarzenbek BerlinBerlin
Reinbek
5 Flensburg
6 Schleswig GeesthachtGeesthacht
7 Kiel
8 Naturpark Holsteinische BoizenburgBoizenburg
Schweiz (Holstein Switzer­ LüneburgLüneburg
land Nature Reserve)
The Hörnum lighthouse, atop dunes on the island of Sylt 9 Ratzeburg 0 kilometres 20
0 Lübeck pp466–9 0 miles 20
For additional map symbols see back flap
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SCHLESWIG-HOLSTEIN  461

Key
Motorway
Main road
Minor road
Main railway
Minor railway
National border
Regional border



Esbjerg

Westerland Ferries departing for excursions from the harbour in Kiel
SYLT
Seebüll
Glücksburg
Niebüll
FLENSBURG
Leck
Föhr N o rdfriesland
Wyk auf
Föhr Kappeln
Amrum
N
Tarp
Halligen Bredstedt Schlei
O
R
Pellworm SCHLESWIG Puttgarden
T
Husum
Treene
Nordstrand Eckernförde Kieler Bucht Fehmarn
H
Gettorf Burg
Owschlag Heiligenhafen

Altenholz

St Peter-
Eider
Ording
Tonning Rendsburg KIEL Selenter
See
Nord-Ostee-Kanal Preetz
Oldenburg
S
Heide
E
Büsum Nortorf Bordesholm Plön Eutin
A
Nordhastedt Grosser

Hemmingstedt Plöner See HOLSTEINISCHE Neustadt
HELGOLAND Neumünster Bosau SCHWEIZ
Trischen MELDORF SCHLESWIG- Lübecker
Burg Bucht
Friedrichskoog
Scharhörn HOLSTEIN Bad
Neuwerk Bad Schwartau
Brunsbüttel Itzehoe Segeberg
Elbe Stör LÜBECK
Kaltenkirchen Bad
Oldesloe
GLÜCKSTADT
Ratzeburger
Elmshorn See
Norderstedt RATZEBURG
Pinneberg Ahrensburg
Schaalsee
Wedel Trittau
Hamburg
Reinbek Berlin
Schwarzenbek
Geesthacht
Boizenburg
Lüneburg
0 kilometres 20
0 miles 20
460-461_EW_Germany.indd 461 09/10/17 12:50 pm

462  NOR THERN GERM AN Y SCHLESWIG-HOLSTEIN  463


1 Helgoland VISITORS’ CHECKLIST

For lovers of spices in Germany, it may have seemed a Practical Information
bad deal when in 1890 Germany received Helgoland Road map B1. * 1,900.
from Britain in return for Zanzibar, but the island is n Lung Wai 28 (04725-20 67 99).
∑ helgoland.de
nevertheless worth a visit. Farthest out in the open sea
(50 km/31 miles from the mainland), the island always Transport
g Hamburg and Büsum.
had great strategic importance, and after 1945, Britain
used it as a bombing target before it was returned to
Germany in 1952. Today its fresh air and spectacular
red cliffs attract thousands of tourists. A sandy beach on the North Frisian island of Sylt
2 Glückstadt 4 Sylt to Denmark. The Nordertor
1 Port Road map C2. * 12,000. £ n Road map B1. * 50,000. £ in (northern gate), dating from
On the flat part of the Große Nübelstraße 31 (04124-93 75 Westerland. n Westerland, Stephan- 1595, is an emblem of the
island is Unterland, a 85). ∑ glueckstadt-tourismus.de straße 6 (04651-820 20). ∑ sylt.de city. The shipping museum is
small town with 1,300 fascinating while the Marien-
inhabitants and a port. The Danish king, Christian IV, The island of Sylt, the largest of kirche has a Renaissance altar,
Fishermen store their founded this little town in 1617 the North Frisian islands, has sculptures and the painting
nets in the colourful and although less impressive long attracted wealthy German The Last Supper (1598). Nearby
little houses, referred than Hamburg, the town is visitors. The 50-km (31-mile) is the Heilig-Geist-Kirche
to as Hummerbuden worth a visit for its layout – roads long island offers a rich variety (church of the Holy Ghost),
(lobster huts).
radiate out from the hexagonal of landscapes: white, sandy which has belonged to the
3 Lange Anna market square, once surrounded beaches; shifting sand dunes town’s Danish community since
Tall Anna, measuring about by fortifications. On the square near List, towering up to 25 m 1588. Other interesting churches
40 m (131ft) high, is the stands the reconstructed (82ft) high; steep shorelines; are Nikolaikirche which boasts a
best known red sandstone 17th-century town hall as well as the Rotes Kliff (red cliff) near magnificent Renaissance organ,
cliff. Nearby is the the Baroque Stadtkirche (town Kampen; and the Watt, the and Johanniskirche with a
Lummenfelsen, which is church). In 1648, parts of the endless expanse of mudflats in vaulted ceiling dating from
the smallest nature
reserve in Germany. duchy of Holstein were the national park, Schleswig- around 1500. Its painted scenes
transferred to Glückstadt. Most Holsteinisches Wattenmeer. show people disguised as
of the palaces built to house the Westerland is Sylt’s main animals, which was a covert
dukes survived, for example the town, and its promenade, way of criticizing the church
Palais Werner with its amazing Friedrichstraße, is “the” place and the system of indulgences.
ballroom. The regional museum to be seen. There is also an
is now in Brockdorf-Palais, interesting casino in a former Environs
another palace from 1632. Secessionist spa building. Schloß Glücksburg, 9 km
(6 miles) northeast of Flensburg,
E Detlefsen-Museum a square castle with massive
Am Fleth 43. Tel (04124) 93 76 30. 5 Flensburg corner towers on a granite base,
Open 2–5pm Wed & Sun, (to was built from 1582–7. Visit its
6pm Jun–Aug), 2–6pm Thu–Sat, Road map C1. * 84,500. £ captivating castle chapel, the
2–5pm Sun. n Rathausstraße 1 (0461-909 09 20).
_ Rum-Regatta in Flensburger Förde Roter Saal (red hall) with its
3 Meldorf (May/Jun). low vaulting, and the valuable
collection of 18th-century
The most northerly town in tapestries from Brussels. The
Road map C1. * 7,500. £
n Nordermarkt 10 (04832-97 800). Germany, Flensburg was an artist Emil Nolde lived and
∑ meldorf-nordsee.de important trading centre in the worked in Seebüll, west of
16th century with 200 ships, Flensburg, from the age of
Meldorf has successfully although at times it belonged 20 until his death in 1956.
preserved the Dithmarscher
Dom, its cathedral, a
Tips for Tourists 13th-century basilica with an
exterior rebuilt in the 19th
Starting point: the port of century. The vaulting in the
2 Oberland 0 metres 100 Helgoland. transept is decorated with
In the upper part of the island 0 yards 100 Length: 1.7 km (1.1 miles). Gothic frescoes, depicting the
stands the Nikolai kirche, Stopping places: there are legends of saints Catherine,
dating from 1959. Close numerous restaurants, bars Christopher and Nicholas. There
by, and worth a visit, are Key and cafés all over the island. is a richly decorated dividing
16th-century tombs. Suggested route wall (1603) and a grand triptych
of the Crucifixion (around 1520). The port and waterfront of Flensburg
For hotels and restaurants in this area see pp502–503 and pp531–2


462-463_EW_Germany.indd 462 09/10/17 12:50 pm 462-463_EW_Germany.indd 463 09/10/17 12:50 pm

SCHLESWIG-HOLSTEIN  463















A sandy beach on the North Frisian island of Sylt
2 Glückstadt 4 Sylt to Denmark. The Nordertor
(northern gate), dating from
Road map C2. * 12,000. £ n Road map B1. * 50,000. £ in
Große Nübelstraße 31 (04124-93 75 Westerland. n Westerland, Stephan- 1595, is an emblem of the
85). ∑ glueckstadt-tourismus.de straße 6 (04651-820 20). ∑ sylt.de city. The shipping museum is
fascinating while the Marien-
The Danish king, Christian IV, The island of Sylt, the largest of kirche has a Renaissance altar,
founded this little town in 1617 the North Frisian islands, has sculptures and the painting
and although less impressive long attracted wealthy German The Last Supper (1598). Nearby
than Hamburg, the town is visitors. The 50-km (31-mile) is the Heilig-Geist-Kirche
worth a visit for its layout – roads long island offers a rich variety (church of the Holy Ghost),
radiate out from the hexagonal of landscapes: white, sandy which has belonged to the
market square, once surrounded beaches; shifting sand dunes town’s Danish community since
by fortifications. On the square near List, towering up to 25 m 1588. Other interesting churches
stands the reconstructed (82ft) high; steep shorelines; are Nikolaikirche which boasts a
17th-century town hall as well as the Rotes Kliff (red cliff) near magnificent Renaissance organ,
the Baroque Stadtkirche (town Kampen; and the Watt, the and Johanniskirche with a
church). In 1648, parts of the endless expanse of mudflats in vaulted ceiling dating from
duchy of Holstein were the national park, Schleswig- around 1500. Its painted scenes
transferred to Glückstadt. Most Holsteinisches Wattenmeer. show people disguised as
of the palaces built to house the Westerland is Sylt’s main animals, which was a covert
dukes survived, for example the town, and its promenade, way of criticizing the church
Palais Werner with its amazing Friedrichstraße, is “the” place and the system of indulgences.
ballroom. The regional museum to be seen. There is also an
is now in Brockdorf-Palais, interesting casino in a former Environs
another palace from 1632. Secessionist spa building. Schloß Glücksburg, 9 km
(6 miles) northeast of Flensburg,
E Detlefsen-Museum a square castle with massive
Am Fleth 43. Tel (04124) 93 76 30. 5 Flensburg corner towers on a granite base,
Open 2–5pm Wed & Sun, (to was built from 1582–7. Visit its
6pm Jun–Aug), 2–6pm Thu–Sat, Road map C1. * 84,500. £ captivating castle chapel, the
2–5pm Sun. n Rathausstraße 1 (0461-909 09 20).
_ Rum-Regatta in Flensburger Förde Roter Saal (red hall) with its
3 Meldorf (May/Jun). low vaulting, and the valuable
collection of 18th-century
The most northerly town in tapestries from Brussels. The
Road map C1. * 7,500. £
n Nordermarkt 10 (04832-97 800). Germany, Flensburg was an artist Emil Nolde lived and
∑ meldorf-nordsee.de important trading centre in the worked in Seebüll, west of
16th century with 200 ships, Flensburg, from the age of
Meldorf has successfully although at times it belonged 20 until his death in 1956.
preserved the Dithmarscher
Dom, its cathedral, a
13th-century basilica with an
exterior rebuilt in the 19th
century. The vaulting in the
transept is decorated with
Gothic frescoes, depicting the
legends of saints Catherine,
Christopher and Nicholas. There
is a richly decorated dividing
wall (1603) and a grand triptych
of the Crucifixion (around 1520). The port and waterfront of Flensburg
For hotels and restaurants in this area see pp502–503 and pp531–2


462-463_EW_Germany.indd 463 09/10/17 12:50 pm

464  NOR THERN GERM AN Y SCHLESWIG-HOLSTEIN  465


survived in the grounds of created Geistkämpfer, the Emil Nolde (1867–1956)
this historic Viking settlement. sculpture outside the church,
The museum is housed in a which symbolizes the triumph Born Emil Hansen, this great artist later
modern building, which of mind over matter. Pieces of adopted the name of the town in which
looks like an upturned boat. the sculpture, which had been he was born. After studying art in
Exhibits include the depiction cut up by the National Socialists, Copenhagen, Munich and Paris, Nolde
of Viking life, models of boats, were found and reassembled devoted himself to painting, and was
jewellery and everyday items. after the war. also successful in the graphic arts. From
1906–7 he belonged to the Expressionist
The most interesting of
E Schloß Gottorf/ Kiel’s many museums is the group Die Brücke. He is known
particularly for his use of vivid colours
Schleswig-Holsteinisches Schleswig-Holsteinisches and highly expressive features, embuing
Landesmuseum/ Freilichtmuseum, an open- his subjects with great emotion.
Archäologi sches Landesmuseum air museum in Molfsee, 6 km Rejected and forbidden to paint by the
Tel (04621) 81 30. Open Apr–Oct: (4 miles) from the centre of National Socialists as an exponent of
10am–6pm daily; Nov–Mar: Kiel, where German rural “degen erate art”, Nolde settled and continued to paint in Seebüll,
10am–4pm Tue–Fri, 10am–5pm architecture from the 16th– where a house was built for him to his own designs.
Sat & Sun).
19th centuries is on show.
E Wikinger-Museum Haithabu Pottery, basket-making and
The inner courtyard of Schloß Gottorf in Schleswig Tel (04621) 81 32 22. Open Apr–Oct: baking are demonstrated, and Plön on the Großer Plöner See
9am–5pm daily; Nov–Mar: 10am–4pm the products are sold here. (large Plön lake). Nearby is
6 Schleswig the Moorleichen, prehistoric Tue–Sun. Preetz, an old shoemakers’
corpses preserved in peat. It E Schleswig-Holsteinisches town, which has a towerless
Road map C1. * 27,000. £ Freilichtmuseum
n Plessenstraße 7 (04621-85 00 56). is also worth seeing the two- 7 Kiel Hamburger Landstraße 97. Tel (0431) Gothic church that belonged
_ Schleswig-Holstein Musik Festival storey chapel (1590). 65 96 60. Open Apr–Oct: 9am–6pm to a former Benedictine
throughout the region (Jul/Aug); The Dom (cathedral) was Road map C1. * 245,000. £ daily; Nov–Mar: 11am–4pm Sun. & monastery. Older still is the
Wikinger-Tage (Aug every other year). built in stages between the n Andreas-Gayk-Straße 31 (0431-67 Romanesque church in Bosau,
∑ schleswig.de 12th and 15th centuries. Its 91 00). Town hall: Open 9am–6pm a small town in a picturesque
largest treasure is the Bordes- Mon–Fri, 9am–1pm Sat. & 8 8 Holsteinische location on the Großer Plöner
The main seat of the Vikings, holmer Altar, a triptych altar _ Kieler Woche (end Jun). Schweiz (Holstein’s See. It was the first bishopric in
Schleswig became a bishop’s carved by Hans Brüggemann in this area, and home to Vizelin –
see as early as 947, and from 1514–21. A masterpiece of Located at the end of the Kieler Switzerland) the apostle of the Slavs. The Dom in Ratzeburg
1544 to 1713 it was the residence Gothic carving, it is 12 m (39 ft) Förde inlet, Kiel marks the Road map D1. £ n Bahnhofstraße It is also worth visiting Eutin,
of the dukes of Schleswig- high and comprises 392 figures; beginning of the Nord-Ostsee- 3, Malente (0800 20 20 080). _ Jazz- a small town full of picturesque 9 Ratzeburg
Holstein-Gottorf, once related the only one to look straight Kanal (Kiel Canal), in service Festival in Plön (May); open-air opera buildings, which is sometimes Road map D2. * 12,500. £
to the rulers of Denmark and at the visitor is the sculptor since 1895, with two giant during Sommerspiele in Eutin. referred to as the “Weimar of the n Unter den Linden 1 (04541-80 00
Russia. They resided in Schloß himself, bearded and hat askew locks. Ferries depart from Kiel north”. The original Schloß, a 886). _ Drachenbootfest (Jun).
Gottorf, a castle, which now (in the house of Abraham for Scandinavia, and in the The moraine hills, which reach a brick structure with four wings,
houses the Schleswig- and Melchisede). summer the “Kieler Woche” height of 164 m (538 ft), and was built in the Middle Ages as Ratzeburg, situated on an island
Holsteinisches Landes- Visitors can also walk around turns the town into a mecca 140 lakes are the reasons why the residence of the Lübeck in the Großer Ratzebur ger See,
museum (regional museum) as the historic fishermen’s district for yachtsmen from around this area is known as Holstein’s bishops, but it was substant ially is linked with the mainland by
well as northern Germany’s of Holm, and visit the Wikinger- the world. Switzerland. The best means of altered in 1716–27. Worth three causeways. The town was
most famous archaeological Museum Haithabu, about A walk along the Schweden- transport here is the bicycle, seeing inside are the palace named after Ratibor, the duke of
museum, the Archäologi sches 4 km (2 miles) from the town Kai (embankment) and allowing visitors to appreciate chapel, the Blauer Salon (blue the Elbe River area. Henry the
Landesmuseum, exhibiting centre. The fortifications have surroundings will take visitors the beauty of nature and the salon) with Rococo stucco work, Lion established a missionary
to the vast Rathaus (town hall), wealth of the fauna – as well as paintings by Johann bishopric here in 1154, and
dating from the beginning of ornithologists have counted Heinrich Wilhelm Tischbein, later it became the residence
Romanesque Baptismal Fonts
the 20th century, and the 200 species of birds. which were inspired by the Iliad of the Lauenburg dukes.
There are few places in the world where visitors can see as many Nikolaikirche (church of St The main centre of and the Odyssey, epic poems The Dom (cathedral) is one
Romanesque baptismal fonts as in Angeln. Generally fashioned Nicholas) which was rebuilt this holiday area is written by Homer. of the earliest examples of
from granite, they have been preserved in enchanting 12th-century after the devastation of World brick architecture, a style
churches, which can be visited by following a 63-km (39-mile) route War II, with its baptismal font that was imported from
along the roads linking Flensburg and Schleswig, Munkbrarup, and Gothic altar. Ernst Barlach Lombardy. The southern
Sörup, Norder brarup, Süderbrarup and finally Ulsnis. vestibule of the Romanesque
basilica is particularly
impressive – with herringbone-
pattern brickwork and lines
of black tiles as interior
decoration. The Romanesque
stalls, a 13th-century crucifix
in a rainbow arch, the ducal
gallery above the nave and
Font in the church Font in the church Font in the the Baroque altar in the
in Borbry in Munkbrarup church in Sörup A house in Kiel’s Schleswig- southern transept are some
Holsteinisches Freilichtmuseum The 17th-century Schloß in Plön, in Holstein’s Switzerland of its treasures.
For hotels and restaurants in this area see pp502–503 and pp531–2


464-465_EW_Germany.indd 464 09/10/17 2:34 pm 464-465_EW_Germany.indd 465 09/10/17 2:34 pm
Eyewitness Travel LAYERS PRINTED:
Catalogue template “UK” LAYER
(Source v2.2)
Date 15th January 2013
Size 125mm x 217mm

SCHLESWIG-HOLSTEIN  465


created Geistkämpfer, the Emil Nolde (1867–1956)
sculpture outside the church,
which symbolizes the triumph Born Emil Hansen, this great artist later
of mind over matter. Pieces of adopted the name of the town in which
the sculpture, which had been he was born. After studying art in
cut up by the National Socialists, Copenhagen, Munich and Paris, Nolde
were found and reassembled devoted himself to painting, and was
after the war. also successful in the graphic arts. From
1906–7 he belonged to the Expressionist
The most interesting of group Die Brücke. He is known
Kiel’s many museums is the particularly for his use of vivid colours
Schleswig-Holsteinisches and highly expressive features, embuing
Freilichtmuseum, an open- his subjects with great emotion.
air museum in Molfsee, 6 km Rejected and forbidden to paint by the
(4 miles) from the centre of National Socialists as an exponent of
Kiel, where German rural “degen erate art”, Nolde settled and continued to paint in Seebüll,
architecture from the 16th– where a house was built for him to his own designs.
19th centuries is on show.
Pottery, basket-making and
baking are demonstrated, and Plön on the Großer Plöner See
the products are sold here. (large Plön lake). Nearby is
Preetz, an old shoemakers’
E Schleswig-Holsteinisches town, which has a towerless
Freilichtmuseum Gothic church that belonged
Hamburger Landstraße 97. Tel (0431) to a former Benedictine
65 96 60. Open Apr–Oct: 9am–6pm monastery. Older still is the
daily; Nov–Mar: 11am–4pm Sun. & Romanesque church in Bosau,
a small town in a picturesque
8 Holsteinische location on the Großer Plöner
Schweiz (Holstein’s See. It was the first bishopric in
this area, and home to Vizelin –
Switzerland) the apostle of the Slavs. The Dom in Ratzeburg
It is also worth visiting Eutin,
Road map D1. £ n Bahnhofstraße 9 Ratzeburg
3, Malente (0800 20 20 080). _ Jazz- a small town full of picturesque
Festival in Plön (May); open-air opera buildings, which is sometimes Road map D2. * 12,500. £
during Sommerspiele in Eutin. referred to as the “Weimar of the n Unter den Linden 1 (04541-80 00
north”. The original Schloß, a 886). _ Drachenbootfest (Jun).
The moraine hills, which reach a brick structure with four wings,
height of 164 m (538 ft), and was built in the Middle Ages as Ratzeburg, situated on an island
140 lakes are the reasons why the residence of the Lübeck in the Großer Ratzebur ger See,
this area is known as Holstein’s bishops, but it was substant ially is linked with the mainland by
Switzerland. The best means of altered in 1716–27. Worth three causeways. The town was
transport here is the bicycle, seeing inside are the palace named after Ratibor, the duke of
allowing visitors to appreciate chapel, the Blauer Salon (blue the Elbe River area. Henry the
the beauty of nature and the salon) with Rococo stucco work, Lion established a missionary
wealth of the fauna – as well as paintings by Johann bishopric here in 1154, and
ornithologists have counted Heinrich Wilhelm Tischbein, later it became the residence
200 species of birds. which were inspired by the Iliad of the Lauenburg dukes.
The main centre of and the Odyssey, epic poems The Dom (cathedral) is one
this holiday area is written by Homer. of the earliest examples of
brick architecture, a style
that was imported from
Lombardy. The southern
vestibule of the Romanesque
basilica is particularly
impressive – with herringbone-
pattern brickwork and lines
of black tiles as interior
decoration. The Romanesque
stalls, a 13th-century crucifix
in a rainbow arch, the ducal
gallery above the nave and
the Baroque altar in the
southern transept are some
The 17th-century Schloß in Plön, in Holstein’s Switzerland of its treasures.




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466  NOR THERN GERM AN Y L Ü BECK  467

0 Street-by-Street: Lübeck View of the Town VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
Lübeck and its seven towers can
This “specific nest”, as Lübeck was described by its most famous be seen from afar. Virtually all the Practical Information
tourist attractions are in the old
resident, Thomas Mann, is well worth a visit. The most important town, which is enclosed by the Road map D2. * 215,000.
town in the Baltic basin by the end of the Middle Ages, it is now river Trave and its channels. n Holstentorplatz 1 (0451-88 99
700). _ Historischer Hansemarkt
a magnet for fans of Backsteingotik, Gothic brick architecture (May); Travemuende Week (Jul),
which has been elevated to a national style. In Lübeck it is easy Sail Travemuende (Aug);
to see why: church interiors, the façades of buildings, the city Kunsthandwerker-
gates, the unique town hall and even the medieval hospital Weihnachtsmarkt (Dec).
resemble pictures from an illustrated history of architecture Transport
brought to life. The city was beautifully rebuilt after the £ Am Bahnhof.
destruction of World War II and enjoys a positive revival.

St Anne’s Museum
Buddenbrookhaus Rathaus This museum, housed inside
This beautiful Gothic Germany’s most famous brick an Augustinian convent,
building was once the town hall, dating from 1226, portrays life and culture in
home of Nobel-prize- has unusual walls and turrets. 0 metres 150 13th–18th-century Lübeck.
winning author
Thomas Mann’s 0 yards 150
grandparents. It is
now a museum
dedicated to the
Mann family. B R E I T E S T R A S S S T A N N E N – S T R A S S E
B R E I T E S T R A S S E E
Freilichtbühne
Heiligen-Geist-Hospital
M Ű H L E N S T R A S S E



S A N D S T R A S S
S A N D S T R A S S E E
S C H L Ű S S E L B U D E N
H O L S T E N S T R A S S E P F E R D E M A R K T

M A R L E S G R U B E B E P A R A D E






. Marienkirche G R U
St Mary’s Church, larger than the T S
cathedral and situated behind the R
town hall, holds great art treasures. A
W
K
N
Key A
D
Suggested route
Petrikirche Herz-Jesu-Kirche
Holstentor The church of St Peter, This 19th-century Catholic
This gate, once the only entrance from the first half of the church houses a memorial
into Lübeck, was built by Hinrich 14th century, is Lübeck’s to four clergymen who . Dom
Helmstede in the years 1466–78, only five-naved church. were executed during The cathedral, begun in 1173 at the
based on Flemish designs. It has the Third Reich for their time of Henry the Lion and completed
become the emblem of the town. opposition to the war. in 1230, is 130 m (426 ft) long.
For hotels and restaurants in this area see pp502–503 and pp531–2


466-467_EW_Germany.indd 466 09/10/17 2:34 pm 466-467_EW_Germany.indd 467 09/10/17 2:34 pm
Eyewitness Travel LAYERS PRINTED:
Starsight template “UK” LAYER
(Source v2.5)
Date 6th February2013
Size 125mm x 217mm

L Ü BECK  467


View of the Town VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
Lübeck and its seven towers can
be seen from afar. Virtually all the Practical Information
tourist attractions are in the old Road map D2. * 215,000.
town, which is enclosed by the n Holstentorplatz 1 (0451-88 99
river Trave and its channels.
700). _ Historischer Hansemarkt
(May); Travemuende Week (Jul),
Sail Travemuende (Aug);
Kunsthandwerker-
Weihnachtsmarkt (Dec).
Transport
£ Am Bahnhof.


St Anne’s Museum
This museum, housed inside
an Augustinian convent,
portrays life and culture in
0 metres 150 13th–18th-century Lübeck.
0 yards 150




B R E I T E S T R A S S E
Freilichtbühne
S T A N N E N – S T R A S S E
M Ű H L E N S T R A S S E



S A N D S T R A S S E




M A R L E S G R U B E P F E R D E M A R K T P A R A D E



E
B
G R U

S
T
R
A
W
K
N
A
D
Herz-Jesu-Kirche
This 19th-century Catholic
church houses a memorial
to four clergymen who . Dom
were executed during The cathedral, begun in 1173 at the
the Third Reich for their time of Henry the Lion and completed
opposition to the war. in 1230, is 130 m (426 ft) long.



466-467_EW_Germany.indd 467 09/10/17 2:34 pm

468  NOR THERN GERM AN Y L Ü BECK  469


Marzipan From Lübeck Nobel Prize in 1929. The centre brickwork, is of a high artistic
exhibits documents relating to quality. In the 20th century,
A favourite present from Lübeck is marzipan, this famous family, in particular sculptures carved by Ernst
which has been popular throughout Europe to Thomas and Heinrich Mann, Barlach were added (Woman in
since the 19th century. The sweets are made concentrating on their time in the Wind, Beggar on Crut ches and
from two-thirds sweet almonds imported Lübeck and their emigration and The Singing Novi tiate). On the
from Venice and one-third sugar and
aromatic oils. The Persians referred to it as exile after 1933. western side hangs the painting
marsaban, and in 1530 its name was recorded of The Resurrection of Lazarus by
for the first time in Lübeck as Martzapaen. From P Schabbelhaus Jacopo Tintoretto, bought by a
1806, the Niederegger patisserie perfected the recipe; they Mengstraße 48 & 52. wealthy patrician; the sculpture
established a patisserie on Breite Straße which operates to this day. Originally the western, weal thier of St George and the dragon is a
half of Lübeck had many copy of the famous original by
patrician houses, facing the the Lübeck artist Bernt Notke,
Exploring Lübeck with the Madonna. The Brief- streets with their ornate brick which is now in Stockholm.
All the most important kapelle, the southwestern side gables. Many of these were
monuments, with the exception chapel built around 1310, is one damaged in the bombing raids The façade of the Gothic Heiliger-Geist-Hospital, with its spiky towers E St Annen-Museum
of the Holstentor, are situated of the earliest examples of star of March 1942, but after World St­Annen­Straße 15. Tel (0451) 122 41
within the old town, which is vaulting in Europe. War II they were carefully Höfe (courtyards) and small, R Jakobikirche 37. Open Jan–May: 11am–5pm Tue–
best explored on foot. In one of the towers, the restored. The most interesting modest houses. The most This 15th­century church, Sun, Apr–Dec: 10am–5pm Tue–Sun.
shattered fragments of the buildings survived in interesting Höfe can be found at which suffered only insignificant Closed Easter, 24, 25, 31 Dec. &
R Marienkirche church bells have been left Mengstraße, in particular the numbers 23 and 39. The Baroque damage during World War II, The Augustinian convent houses
Schüsselbuden 13. Tel (0451) 88 99 embedded in the floor where famous Schabbelhaus at No. 48. portal of the Füchtingshof, at No. has preserved its original, mainly unusual Lübeck art treasures.
700. Open 9am–5pm daily, in winter they fell during the bombing in Built in 1558, this house gained 23, leads to houses which, from Baroque features. Of particular There is an impressive number of
to 4pm. 1942; the present bells are from a magnificent Baroque hall in 1639, were built for the widows note are the main altar as well as wooden Gothic altars, com mis­
St Mary’s church was St Catherine’s in Gdansk. the 18th century. Today it is an of merchants and captains. the side altar in the south chapel. sioned by wealthy families for
constructed by the Lübeckers attraction in its own right as The latter was established their private chapels in one of
as a monument to themselves. P Buddenbrookhaus well as a restaurant. P Günter-Grass-Haus around 1500 by the mayor, the five churches. The altars were
The twin-towered basilica with Heinrich- und Thomas-Mann-Zentrum, Glockengießerstr 21. Tel (0451) 122 42 Heinrich Brömbse, and depicts a supposed to bring them eternal
transept and a passage-way Mengstraße 4. Tel (0451) 122 42 43. 30. Open Apr–Dec: 10am–5pm daily; scene of the Crucifixion carved in salvation after death, and to sym­
around the polygon-shaped Open Jan–Mar: 11am–5pm daily; Jan–Mar: 11am–5pm Tue–Sun. & sandstone. Both the small and bolize the wealth and prestige of
presbytery is the brick Apr–Dec: 10am–6pm daily. Closed 24, More than 1,100 exhibits (inclu­ the large organ originate from the family during their lifetime.
modification of a Neo-Classical 25, 31 Dec. & ding draw ings and manuscripts) the 15th century. Gems of the collection are the
French cathedral. Literature lovers will wish to visit here give an insight into the life Hans Memling altar with Christ’s
Its vast interior boasts the the Buddenbrook house. Behind and work of Nobel Prize­winning R Katharinenkirche Passion, and the external side
highest vaulted brick ceiling in its Rococo façade from 1758 is author and artist Günter Grass. Königstraße. Museumskirche St wings of the Schonenfahrer Altar
the world (40 m/131 ft) which a museum devoted to the Katharinen Tel (0451) 122 41 37. by Bernt Notke.
dominates the other interior Mann family, the great P Burgtor Open 15 Apr–30 Sep: 10am–5pm
features. These include a 10 m writers who lived here On the northern limits of the Fri–Sun. R Dom
(32 ft) bronze Holy Sacrament in 1841–91. It is here old town stands the castle gate, St Catherine’s, the only survi ving Tel (0451) 747 04. Open Apr–Oct:
(1476–9); a baptismal font in that Thomas Mann a second surviving gate of the monastic church, was built by 10am–6pm daily; Nov–Mar:
the main nave dating from wrote the family historic fortifications. A Baroque the Franciscans, as is apparent 10am–4pm daily.
1337; the altar dedicated saga of the finial was added to the gate in from the absence of a tower and The cathedral, completed in
to the Virgin Mary in the Buddenbrooks, 1685. The tower’s five storeys are its monastic gallery in the 1341, takes the form of a Gothic
Sängerkapelle (singers’ after whom the decorated with uniform rows of presbytery of the main nave. The hall­church. Its most precious
chapel) made in Antwerp house is named, windows and windbreaks. western façade, with its glazed possession is the Triumphal
in 1518; and the main, and for which he Stepped gables of the Haus Cross sculpted from a 17­m (55­
late-Gothic Swarte-Altar was awarded the der Schiffergesellschaft a Heiligen-Geist-Hospital ft) oak tree by Bernt Notke, a
Grosse Burgstraße Tel (0451) 79 07­841. celebrated local artist. The giant
P Haus der Schifferge- Open Apr–Sep: 10am–5pm Tue–Sun; figures, resplendent with
sellschaft Oct–Mar: 10am–4pm Tue–Sun. emotion, include Adam and Eve,
Breite Straße 2. The Holy Ghost hospital is the as well as the founder, bishop
The house of the Marine Guild, best preserved medieval building Albert Krummedick. Among
which dates from 1535, has a of its type in central Europe. Built numerous memorials, that
splendid interior and now in the shape of the letter T, it has dedicated to bishop Heinrich
houses one of the city’s most a shorter western section with Bocholt, made from bronze,
elegant restaurants. The façade a twin­aisled hall­church stands out. Additionally, two
has stepped gables and terraces/ (around1286), containing valuable sculptures can be seen;
forecourts, typical of Lübeck. frescoes of Christ and the Holy Mary Mother of God with a
Madonna on Solomon’s Throne crown composed of stars, as
P Füchtingshof and Majestas Domini. The second well as the Beautiful Ma donna in
Glockengießerstraße 23. section contains the actual the southern nave (1509). Note
The eastern part of the town is of hospice. In 1820, small cubicles the bronze baptismal font by
an entirely different character: were created for the elderly, who Lorenz Grove from 1455, with its
The multi-storey Burgtor, crowned by a Baroque cupola narrow streets link charming lived here until 1970. The bright interior of the Gothic Dom three kneeling angels.
For hotels and restaurants in this area see pp502–503 and pp531–2


468-469_EW_Germany.indd 468 09/10/17 2:34 pm 468-469_EW_Germany.indd 469 09/10/17 2:34 pm
Eyewitness Travel LAYERS PRINTED:
Catalogue template “UK” LAYER
(Source v2.2)
Date 15th January 2013
Size 125mm x 217mm

L Ü BECK  469


brickwork, is of a high artistic
quality. In the 20th century,
sculptures carved by Ernst
Barlach were added (Woman in
the Wind, Beggar on Crut ches and
The Singing Novi tiate). On the
western side hangs the painting
of The Resurrection of Lazarus by
Jacopo Tintoretto, bought by a
wealthy patrician; the sculpture
of St George and the dragon is a
copy of the famous original by
the Lübeck artist Bernt Notke,
which is now in Stockholm.
The façade of the Gothic Heiliger-Geist-Hospital, with its spiky towers E St Annen-Museum
St­Annen­Straße 15. Tel (0451) 122 41
Höfe (courtyards) and small, R Jakobikirche 37. Open Jan–May: 11am–5pm Tue–
modest houses. The most This 15th­century church, Sun, Apr–Dec: 10am–5pm Tue–Sun.
interesting Höfe can be found at which suffered only insignificant Closed Easter, 24, 25, 31 Dec. &
numbers 23 and 39. The Baroque damage during World War II, The Augustinian convent houses
portal of the Füchtingshof, at No. has preserved its original, mainly unusual Lübeck art treasures.
23, leads to houses which, from Baroque features. Of particular There is an impressive number of
1639, were built for the widows note are the main altar as well as wooden Gothic altars, com mis­
of merchants and captains. the side altar in the south chapel. sioned by wealthy families for
The latter was established their private chapels in one of
P Günter-Grass-Haus around 1500 by the mayor, the five churches. The altars were
Glockengießerstr 21. Tel (0451) 122 42 Heinrich Brömbse, and depicts a supposed to bring them eternal
30. Open Apr–Dec: 10am–5pm daily; scene of the Crucifixion carved in salvation after death, and to sym­
Jan–Mar: 11am–5pm Tue–Sun. & sandstone. Both the small and bolize the wealth and prestige of
More than 1,100 exhibits (inclu­ the large organ originate from the family during their lifetime.
ding draw ings and manuscripts) the 15th century. Gems of the collection are the
here give an insight into the life Hans Memling altar with Christ’s
and work of Nobel Prize­winning R Katharinenkirche Passion, and the external side
author and artist Günter Grass. Königstraße. Museumskirche St wings of the Schonenfahrer Altar
Katharinen Tel (0451) 122 41 37. by Bernt Notke.
P Burgtor Open 15 Apr–30 Sep: 10am–5pm
On the northern limits of the Fri–Sun. R Dom
old town stands the castle gate, St Catherine’s, the only survi ving Tel (0451) 747 04. Open Apr–Oct:
a second surviving gate of the monastic church, was built by 10am–6pm daily; Nov–Mar:
historic fortifications. A Baroque the Franciscans, as is apparent 10am–4pm daily.
finial was added to the gate in from the absence of a tower and The cathedral, completed in
1685. The tower’s five storeys are its monastic gallery in the 1341, takes the form of a Gothic
decorated with uniform rows of presbytery of the main nave. The hall­church. Its most precious
windows and windbreaks. western façade, with its glazed possession is the Triumphal
Cross sculpted from a 17­m (55­
a Heiligen-Geist-Hospital ft) oak tree by Bernt Notke, a
Grosse Burgstraße Tel (0451) 79 07­841. celebrated local artist. The giant
Open Apr–Sep: 10am–5pm Tue–Sun; figures, resplendent with
Oct–Mar: 10am–4pm Tue–Sun. emotion, include Adam and Eve,
The Holy Ghost hospital is the as well as the founder, bishop
best preserved medieval building Albert Krummedick. Among
of its type in central Europe. Built numerous memorials, that
in the shape of the letter T, it has dedicated to bishop Heinrich
a shorter western section with Bocholt, made from bronze,
a twin­aisled hall­church stands out. Additionally, two
(around1286), containing valuable sculptures can be seen;
frescoes of Christ and the Holy Mary Mother of God with a
Madonna on Solomon’s Throne crown composed of stars, as
and Majestas Domini. The second well as the Beautiful Ma donna in
section contains the actual the southern nave (1509). Note
hospice. In 1820, small cubicles the bronze baptismal font by
were created for the elderly, who Lorenz Grove from 1455, with its
lived here until 1970. The bright interior of the Gothic Dom three kneeling angels.




468-469_EW_Germany.indd 469 09/10/17 2:34 pm

NOR THERN GERM AN Y  471

MECKLENBURG-

LOWER POMERANIA


The medieval towns of Schwerin, Wismar, Rostock and Stralsund,
as well as several magnificent architectural monuments, provide
reason enough to visit this part of Germany, yet it also offers a
largely untouched landscape of forests and lakes. Along the Baltic
coastline, tourists delight in the beautiful sandy beaches of Darß or Usedom,
but above all they head for the island of Rügen, with its famous white cliffs.

Mecklenburg-Vorpommern (Lower under the German Democratic Republic:
Pomerania), a mosaic of regions, can in 1953 all the hotels were nationalized
look back on an eventful history. In the and the unique buildings in the
12th century, indigenous Slav tribes were Hanseatic towns were left to decay
colonized and converted to Christianity. or were destroyed.
The region became part of the Holy After reunification, although still
Roman Empire and German colonialism one of the poorest states in Germany,
resulted in the Slavs’ rapid assimilation. Mecklenburg-Lower Pomerania today
In the Middle Ages, several towns has become an idyllic holiday destination.
became rich trading centres and joined Improvements in the infrastructure, new
the Hanseatic League. From the 18th hotels and restaurants have brought
century, the Swedish Empire was the positive change, and it has much to
most powerful political force in this offer. Nature lovers, walkers and cyclists,
part of Europe. It ruled Wismar, Rügen for example, can enjoy the Mecklenburg
and Stralsund until 1803 and 1815 lake district and the island of Rügen.
respectively, when the territories Fans of architecture will find a wealth
became part of Prussia, and later the of interest in the palace in Ludwigslust
German Reich. During World War II and the castle of Güstrow, as well as the
the Baltic towns suffered terrible Gothic brick architecture in town halls,
destruction and then from neglect churches and smaller buildings.























The beautiful white chalk cliffs on the island of Rügen sweep down to the blue Baltic Sea
The superb Schloß of Schwerin, on an island in the middle of Schwerin lake



470-471_EW_Germany.indd 470 09/10/17 12:50 pm 470-471_EW_Germany.indd 471 09/10/17 12:50 pm

NOR THERN GERM AN Y  471

MECKLENBURG-

LOWER POMERANIA


The medieval towns of Schwerin, Wismar, Rostock and Stralsund,
as well as several magnificent architectural monuments, provide
reason enough to visit this part of Germany, yet it also offers a
largely untouched landscape of forests and lakes. Along the Baltic
coastline, tourists delight in the beautiful sandy beaches of Darß or Usedom,
but above all they head for the island of Rügen, with its famous white cliffs.

Mecklenburg-Vorpommern (Lower under the German Democratic Republic:
Pomerania), a mosaic of regions, can in 1953 all the hotels were nationalized
look back on an eventful history. In the and the unique buildings in the
12th century, indigenous Slav tribes were Hanseatic towns were left to decay
colonized and converted to Christianity. or were destroyed.
The region became part of the Holy After reunification, although still
Roman Empire and German colonialism one of the poorest states in Germany,
resulted in the Slavs’ rapid assimilation. Mecklenburg-Lower Pomerania today
In the Middle Ages, several towns has become an idyllic holiday destination.
became rich trading centres and joined Improvements in the infrastructure, new
the Hanseatic League. From the 18th hotels and restaurants have brought
century, the Swedish Empire was the positive change, and it has much to
most powerful political force in this offer. Nature lovers, walkers and cyclists,
part of Europe. It ruled Wismar, Rügen for example, can enjoy the Mecklenburg
and Stralsund until 1803 and 1815 lake district and the island of Rügen.
respectively, when the territories Fans of architecture will find a wealth
became part of Prussia, and later the of interest in the palace in Ludwigslust
German Reich. During World War II and the castle of Güstrow, as well as the
the Baltic towns suffered terrible Gothic brick architecture in town halls,
destruction and then from neglect churches and smaller buildings.























The beautiful white chalk cliffs on the island of Rügen sweep down to the blue Baltic Sea
The superb Schloß of Schwerin, on an island in the middle of Schwerin lake



470-471_EW_Germany.indd 471 09/10/17 12:50 pm

472  NOR THERN GERM AN Y MECKLENBURG–L OWER POMER ANIA  473

Exploring Mecklenburg- Getting Around
Lower Pomerania International flights land at Hamburg and Berlin,
domestic flights at Rostock and Heringsdorf on
Usedom. Ferries go from Denmark, Sweden and
This is a large region with mostly minor roads so visitors Lithuania to Sassnitz and Rostock, and the E55/
are well advised to allow extra time to explore it. The A19 motorway runs from the south to Schwerin
area can be divided into three: the west, stopping off in and Rostock.
pretty Wismar or charming Schwerin with its fairy-tale
castle; the centre, with the major port of Rostock as a KapKap
base, and the east, which can be explored from Arkona Arkona
Stralsund or Greifswald. In the central Mecklenburger
Seenplatte is Müritz National Park, a vast area of lakes Mecklenburg’s glorious beaches HiddenseeHiddensee SassnitzSassnitz Rügen Island’s Kap Arkona towers over the Baltic coast
and forests that is ideal for camping, walking and sailing.
It is also a good plan to set aside a few days for PrerowPrerow R Ü G E N
R Ü G E N
relaxation on the sandy beaches of Darß, Zingst, DarssDarss ZingstZingst WaaseWaase
Usedom or Rügen. BergenBergen
Fischland AhrenshoopAhrenshoop BarthBarth STRALSUNDSTRALSUND PutbusPutbus
Fischland
Sights at a Glance MecklenburgerMecklenburger Ribnitz-Ribnitz- GreifswalderGreifswalder
BuchtBucht
1 Schwerin pp474–75 DamgartenDamgarten BoddenBodden
Kühlungsborn
2 Ludwigslust Kühlungsborn HeiligendammHeiligendamm PEENEMÜNDEPEENEMÜNDE
WarnemündeWarnemünde
3 Gadebusch BAD DOBERANBAD DOBERAN GrimmenGrimmen WieckWieck
Recknitz
4 Wismar LübeckerLübecker Recknitz
5 Bad Doberan BuchtBucht ROSTOCKROSTOCK GREIFSWALDGREIFSWALD WOLGASTWOLGAST
6 Güstrow PoelPoel GnoienGnoien HeringsdorfHeringsdorf
7 Neubrandenburg MECKLENBURG-MECKLENBURG- AhlbeckAhlbeck
9 Rostock p480 GrevesmühlenGrevesmühlen WISMARWISMAR DemminDemmin U S E D O M
U S E D O M
0 Stralsund p481 BützowBützow VORPOMMERNVORPOMMERN Peene
Peene
q Rügen pp482–3 ANKLAMANKLAM UsedomUsedom
w Greifswald LübeckLübeck GÜSTROWGÜSTROW TeterowTeterow KummerowerKummerower OderhaffOderhaff
SeeSee
e Wolgast GADEBUSCHGADEBUSCH Stepenitz SchwerinerSchweriner Groß-Raden MalchinMalchin UeckermündeUeckermünde
Groß-Raden
r Anklam SeeSee SternbergSternberg MalchinerMalchiner ReuterstadtReuterstadt Zarow
Zarow
Stepenitz
t Usedom SeeSee BasedowBasedow Uecker Uecker
y Peenemünde SCHWERINSCHWERIN FriedlandFriedland
SchaalseeSchaalsee Randow
GoldbergGoldberg NEUBRANDENBURGNEUBRANDENBURG
Excursions WarenWaren
Randow
8 Nationalpark Müritz HamburgHamburg NATIONALPARK MÜRITZ PasewalkPasewalk
TollenseseeTollensesee
Schaale
Schaale HagenowHagenow ParchimParchim PlauerPlauer MalchowMalchow StargardStargard
SeeSee MüritzseeMüritzsee
NATIONALPARK MÜRITZ
Müritz-Elde-Kanal
Müritz-Elde-Kanal
BoizenburgBoizenburg SzczecinSzczecin
Sude NeustrelitzNeustrelitz
Sude
LUDWIGSLUSTLUDWIGSLUST
MirowMirow
BerlinBerlin
Rögnitz
Rögnitz
WittstockWittstock
Meck lenburg is che Se enplatt
Meck lenburg is che Se enplatt e e
BerlinBerlin
PerlebergPerleberg
Alte Elde
Alte Elde
Elbe
Elbe
Key
Motorway
Main road
Minor road
Main railway
Minor railway
National border 0 kilometres 30
Neuer Markt, surrounded by charming gabled buildings, Rostock Regional border 0 miles 30 The attractive cloisters of Schloß Güstrow
For additional map symbols see back flap
472-473_EW_Germany.indd 472 09/10/17 12:50 pm 472-473_EW_Germany.indd 473 09/10/17 12:50 pm

MECKLENBURG–L OWER POMER ANIA  473


Getting Around
International flights land at Hamburg and Berlin,
domestic flights at Rostock and Heringsdorf on
Usedom. Ferries go from Denmark, Sweden and
Lithuania to Sassnitz and Rostock, and the E55/
A19 motorway runs from the south to Schwerin
and Rostock.


Kap
Arkona
Hiddensee Sassnitz Rügen Island’s Kap Arkona towers over the Baltic coast

Prerow R Ü G E N
Zingst Waase
Darss Bergen
Fischland Ahrenshoop Barth Putbus
Mecklenburger STRALSUND
Bucht Ribnitz- Greifswalder
Damgarten Bodden
Kühlungsborn Heiligendamm
Warnemünde PEENEMÜNDE
Grimmen
BAD DOBERAN Wieck
Lübecker
Bucht ROSTOCK Recknitz GREIFSWALD WOLGAST
Poel
Gnoien Heringsdorf
MECKLENBURG- U S E D O M Ahlbeck
Grevesmühlen WISMAR Demmin Peene
Bützow VORPOMMERN ANKLAM Usedom
Lübeck Kummerower Oderhaff
GÜSTROW Teterow See
GADEBUSCH Stepenitz Schweriner Groß-Raden Malchin Ueckermünde
See Malchiner Zarow
Sternberg See Reuterstadt
Basedow
SCHWERIN Friedland Uecker
Schaalsee Randow
Goldberg NEUBRANDENBURG
Waren
Hamburg NATIONALPARK MÜRITZ Pasewalk
Tollensesee
Schaale Hagenow Parchim Plauer Malchow Stargard
See Müritzsee
Boizenburg Szczecin
Müritz-Elde-Kanal
Sude Neustrelitz
LUDWIGSLUST
Mirow
Berlin
Rögnitz
Wittstock
Meck lenburg is che Se enplatt e
Berlin
Perleberg
Alte Elde
Elbe



0 kilometres 30
0 miles 30 The attractive cloisters of Schloß Güstrow




472-473_EW_Germany.indd 473 09/10/17 12:50 pm

474  NOR THERN GERM AN Y MECKLENBURG–L OWER POMER ANIA  475

1 Schwerin E Staatliches Museum A number of outstanding VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
Am Alten Garten 3. Tel (0385) 595 80. original features compare well
Despite protests from Rostock, the smaller town of Schwerin Open Apr–Oct: 10am–8pm Tue, with the finest works from Practical Information
was chosen as the capital of the newly united state of 10am–6pm Wed–Sun; Oct–Apr: Antwerp during this time. Road map D2. * 110,000.
Mecklenburg-Lower Pomerania. This was an inspired choice 10am–5pm Tue–Sun. & They include the wooden n Am Markt 14 (Rathaus) (0385-
59 252 12). _ Schloßfestspiele
as the town is picturesquely situated amid several lakes, with The state art museum stands in late-Gothic multi-panelled (Jun–Jul), Drachenboot (Aug),
Alter Garten, one of the most
Cruci fixion worked in sandstone,
a fairy-tale castle on an island, and an enchanting old town attractive squares in Germany, the 14th-century baptismal Altstadtfest (Sep).
with many Neo-Classical and historic buildings that survived where the waters reflect the font, a memorial to Duchess ∑ schwerin.com
World War II largely unscathed. Apart from a brief spell, the castle and Neo-Renaissance Helen of Mecklenburg Transport
Mecklenburg dukes resided in Schwerin from 1318–1918. theatre. The museum, which created by the Vischer work- £ Am Bahnhof.
Intellectual life flourished here in the 16th century and features lions on its façade and The Dom and houses in Schwerin shop in Nuremberg and the
so the city is known as “Florence of the North”. a portico with Ionic columns, tombstones of Duke
houses an art collection based Gebäude on the north side. This Christopher and his wife (1595). The museum contains a
on that of Duke Christian “new building” is a covered collection of Mecklenburg folk
Ludwig II, a testimony to his market from 1783–5, with a E Freilichtmuseum architecture, including 17 houses
taste and erudition. As well as showpiece façade comprising Schwerin-Muess of the 17th–19th centuries,
works by German artists such as 12 Doric columns. Alte Crivitzer Landstraße 13. which strive to recreate the look
Cranach, Liebermann and Tel (0385) 208 41-0. Open late Apr– of an original village. Combine
Corinth, and the Dutch painters R Dom St Maria und late Sep: 10am–6pm Tue–Sun; late a visit with a leisurely day on
Hals and Fabritius, it holds works St Johannes Sep–Oct: 10am–5pm Tue–Sun. & the beach in Zippendorf.
by many French artists. This Am Dom 4. Tel (0385) 56 50 14. Tower
includes 34 paintings by Jean- Open Apr–Oct: 10am–5pm Mon–Sat,
Baptiste Oudry, who was court noon–5pm Sun; Nov–Mar: 11am–2pm
painter to Ludwig XIV, as well as Mon–Fri, 11am–4pm Sat, noon–3pm
paintings by Dadaist artist Marcel Sun. &
Duchamp and sculptures by This cathedral is regarded as the
expressionist artist Ernst Barlach. most important work of Gothic
brick architecture in the Baltic
P Rathausplatz region, in spite of its Neo-Gothic
The town hall square is tower, which affords a
surrounded by the homes of marvellous view of the entire
The Neo-Renaissance Schloß occupies Burg island in the Schweriner See wealthy citizens, often with town. The basilica, dating from
19th-century façades 1240–1416, with its wide transept
Exploring Schwerin chapel built by Johan Batista concealing older walls. This is and passageway around the
The old town of Schwerin is Parra in 1560–63 has survived. true of the Gothic town hall, presbytery and its wreath of
situated between Pfaffenteich The elegant rooms in the castle which is hidden under an chapels, is reminiscent of the
railway station and Schwe riner – Thronsaal (throne chamber), English mock-Tudor-style design of French cathedrals. Houses of an earlier era in open-air Freilichtmuseum in Schwerin-Mueß
See, a vast 65-sq km (25-sq mile) Ahnengalerie (ancestral gallery), façade. Demmler was the
lake. All its major attractions can Rote Audienz (red auditorium), architect who is responsible for
-B EBEL-STR.
easily be visited on foot. Close Speisesaal (dining chamber) – numerous Neo-Renaissance Schwerin City Centre A UGUST-
by to the north is Schelf, which are decorated with gilded stucco and Neo-Gothic buildings, the 1 Schloß Hauptbahnhof
500 m (550 yards)
was once a separate town. work. Despite the proliferation showpieces of Schwerin. One FRIEDRICHSTR. MÜNZSTRASSE
of their styles these rooms of the outstanding buildings 2 Burg- und Schloßgarten Dom St Maria PUSCHKINSTRASSE GRÜNE STRASSE
+ Schloß delight visitors, transporting in the market square is Neues 3 Staatliches Museum & St Johannes
Schloßinsel. Tel (0385) 52 52 920. Open them back to the 19th century. 4 Rathausplatz Neues Gebäude B U R G S T R A S SE
15 Apr–14 Oct: 10am–6pm daily; 15 5 Dom St Maria und St Johannes RATHAUS Rathaus W ED ERST RAS S E
PLATZ
Oct–14 Apr: 10am–5pm Tue–Sun. Y Burg- und Schloßgarten
Situated on Burg Island, this The remaining part of the island SCHLOSSSTRASSE G R O S S E R M O O R
castle is often referred to as the is occupied by the Burggarten KLE INER MOOR
“Neuschwanstein of Mecklen- (fortress garden), which has an GOETHE STR A S S E Mecklenburgisches M A RSTA L L
burg”, after the famous Bavarian orangery and an artificial grotto, M EC K L ENBURGSTR A S S E Staatstheater Staatliches
Museum
ALTER
castle. It was, in fact, largely built built from granite around 1850. GARTEN
earlier (1843–57) to an eclectic A bridge leads to the larger
design by Georg Adolph Schloßgarten (castle garden), a H.-MANN-STR.
Demmler and Fried rich August favourite place for the town’s Schloss Schweriner
Stüler, who were inspired by the inhabitants to relax. The Kreuz- G R A F - S C H A C K -A LLEE See
turrets of Château Chambord in kanal, a canal built in 1748–56, Burgsee
France. Major refurbishment one of the garden’s axes, is lined Burggarten
tried to re-create some of the with copies of Baroque statues
castle’s original Renaissance including the Four Seasons, L E N
features, of which only the created by the renowned 0 metres 300 BURGSEESTRASSE
ceramic decorations have sculptor of the Dresden Zwinger, Venus and Amor (1527) by Lucas Cranach in N É S T RASS E
remained. Inside, the castle Balthasar Permoser. the Staatliches Museum 0 yards 300 Freilichtmuseum Schlossgarten
For hotels and restaurants in this area see p503 and pp532–3
474-475_EW_Germany.indd 474 09/10/17 12:50 pm 474-475_EW_Germany.indd 475 09/10/17 12:50 pm

MECKLENBURG–L OWER POMER ANIA  475


A number of outstanding VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
original features compare well
with the finest works from Practical Information
Antwerp during this time. Road map D2. * 110,000.
They include the wooden n Am Markt 14 (Rathaus) (0385-
late-Gothic multi-panelled 59 252 12). _ Schloßfestspiele
Cruci fixion worked in sandstone, (Jun–Jul), Drachenboot (Aug),
the 14th-century baptismal Altstadtfest (Sep).
∑ schwerin.com
font, a memorial to Duchess
Helen of Mecklenburg Transport
created by the Vischer work- £ Am Bahnhof.
The Dom and houses in Schwerin shop in Nuremberg and the
tombstones of Duke
Gebäude on the north side. This Christopher and his wife (1595). The museum contains a
“new building” is a covered collection of Mecklenburg folk
market from 1783–5, with a E Freilichtmuseum architecture, including 17 houses
showpiece façade comprising Schwerin-Muess of the 17th–19th centuries,
12 Doric columns. Alte Crivitzer Landstraße 13. which strive to recreate the look
Tel (0385) 208 41-0. Open late Apr– of an original village. Combine
R Dom St Maria und late Sep: 10am–6pm Tue–Sun; late a visit with a leisurely day on
St Johannes Sep–Oct: 10am–5pm Tue–Sun. & the beach in Zippendorf.
Am Dom 4. Tel (0385) 56 50 14. Tower
Open Apr–Oct: 10am–5pm Mon–Sat,
noon–5pm Sun; Nov–Mar: 11am–2pm
Mon–Fri, 11am–4pm Sat, noon–3pm
Sun. &
This cathedral is regarded as the
most important work of Gothic
brick architecture in the Baltic
region, in spite of its Neo-Gothic
tower, which affords a
marvellous view of the entire
town. The basilica, dating from
1240–1416, with its wide transept
and passageway around the
presbytery and its wreath of
chapels, is reminiscent of the
design of French cathedrals. Houses of an earlier era in open-air Freilichtmuseum in Schwerin-Mueß
-B EBEL-STR.
A UGUST-
Schwerin City Centre
1 Schloß Hauptbahnhof FRIEDRICHSTR. MÜNZSTRASSE
500 m (550 yards)
2 Burg- und Schloßgarten Dom St Maria PUSCHKINSTRASSE
3 Staatliches Museum & St Johannes GRÜNE STRASSE
4 Rathausplatz Neues Gebäude B U R G S T R A S SE
5 Dom St Maria und St Johannes RATHAUS Rathaus G R O S S E R M O O R W ED ERST RAS S E
PLATZ
GOETHE STR A S S E M EC K L ENBURGSTR A S S E Mecklenburgisches GARTEN Staatliches M A RSTA L L
KLE INER MOOR
SCHLOSSSTRASSE
Staatstheater
Museum
ALTER
G R A F - S C H A C K -A LLEE Burgsee Burggarten See
H.-MANN-STR. Schloss Schweriner




L E N
0 metres 300 BURGSEESTRASSE N É S T RASS E
0 yards 300 Freilichtmuseum Schlossgarten




474-475_EW_Germany.indd 475 09/10/17 12:50 pm

476  NOR THERN GERM AN Y MECKLENBURG–L OWER POMER ANIA  477


Tsar Peter I, who died the Passion were sculpted chalice and relics from an earlier
tragically young. In by an unknown artist. Romanesque building, as well
the town you will In the 16th and 17th as a statue of the Virgin Mary.
find the Protestant centuries, the Schloß was the Beautiful tombs mark the
Stadtkirche, built in residence of distant relations resting places of the rulers of
1765–70 to look like an of the dukes of Mecklenburg. Mecklenburg, of the Danish
antique temple. In the Resembling the castle in Queen Margaret, and Albrecht,
presbytery is a giant Wismar, it is decorated with King of Sweden, who died in
mural, The Adoration glazed reliefs and pilasters. 1412. Visitors can walk around
One of 24 waterfalls in Ludwigslust Park of the Shepherds. It is not open to visitors. the outside of the church which
has a pleasant lawn. Beyond you
2 Ludwigslust + Schloß 4 Wismar can find a small octagonal
Tel (03874) 57 19 0. Open 15 Apr–14 building, beautifully decorated
Road map D2. * 12,600. £ north Oct: 10am–6pm daily; 15 Oct–14 Apr: Road map D2. * 55,000. £
of centre, 15 min. walk. n Schloß­ 10am– 5pm Tue–Sun. Closed 24 & 31 n Lübsche Straße 23a (03841­19 433). with glazed brickwork – this
straße 36 (03874­52 62 51). Dec. & lovely piece of 13th­century
∑ stadtludwigslust.de Wismar is undoubtedly one architecture is the morgue.
R Stadtkirche of the most attractive towns A stroll around the health spa
At the beginning of the 18th Tel (03874) 21 968. Open varies, in Mecklenburg. During the is also recommended. Right in
century, the small village of call ahead. Middle Ages, it was an Alter Schwede and Wasserspiele in the market square in Wismar its centre it has two early
Klenow was founded here; important Hanseatic centre, as 19th­century pavilions with
from 1765 it grew into a town. evidenced by the monumental 16 public buildings. The most a huge rose window. The Chinese features – an ideal
The town was laid out around 3 Gadebusch brick church, which is beautiful house on the square is proportions of the interior and place for a coffee break.
the Schloß, residence of the Road map D2. * 6,600. £ completely out of proportion the Alter Schwede (old Swede), the height of the vaulted main
dukes of Mecklenburg­Schwerin n Mühlenstraße 19 (03886­21 21 10). with the provincial town of built about 1380, with a nave measuring 37 m (121 ft) are Environs
until 1837. The “Versailles of ∑ gadebusch.de today. After the Thirty Years’ protruding Gothic brick gable. captivating. Some of the interior Another adventure is a trip on
Mecklenburg” is quite different War, in 1648, the Swedes were To the west of the market there fixtures and fittings came from the “Molli”, a narrow­gauge
from its French namesake. The This small town, established in the are two churches, which act as other churches in the city, which railway that links Bad Doberan
Baroque palace was built next to the former town, and rebuilt it sad examples of the GDR’s were either ruined or no longer with Heiligen damm and
entirely in brick, concealed East–West border, as the strongest neglect of its historical legacy. exist, including the so­ called Kühlungsborn, where there is a
beneath sandstone from the has two interesting fortress in Europe. The reconstruction of the Krämeraltar with a sculpture of 4­km (2­mile) long beach. On the
Ruda hills. The ornate in terior, historic monu­ In 1803 they leased Georgenkirche, badly damaged the Beautiful Madonna and Child way, a little gem of 13th­century
particularly the elegant ments. The Wismar to in World War II, was (around 1420). The room by the country architecture, the church
Goldener Saal (gold hall), was Stadtkirche, which Mecklenburg, begun in 1989, and tower has the most complete in Stefenshagen, calls for a
decorated in Ludwigsluster dates from 1220, but never claimed it will soon be cycle of frescoes in the region visit. On its south portal, see
Carton, a type of papier­mâché, is the oldest it back. returned to its (around 1450). the terracotta figures of the
in order to cut costs. brick church in The town centre former glory. The apostles. Across the presbytery
In the mid­19th century, Mecklenburg. Its has a grand market Marienkirche has runs a brickwork relief with
the vast Schloßpark was cross vaulting, square measuring 100 only one surviving 5 Bad Doberan mythological creatures.
redesigned by Peter Joseph chunky pillars and Baptismal font in the x 100 m (328 x 328 ft), tower – the ruined Road map D1. * 11,900. £
Lenné as an English­style land­ goblet­shaped Stadtkirche in Gadebusch with Wasserspiele nave was blown up n Severinstr 6 (038203­621 54). R Doberaner Münster
scaped garden. On a scenic walk capitals are (well­house), a Dutch­ in 1960. Nearby lies Klosterstraße 2. Tel (038203) 627 16.
round the garden, the visitor Romanesque in Renaissance pavilion the Fürstenhof, When Duke Henry Borwin was Open May–Sep: 9am–6pm daily (from
can discover some 24 waterfalls, style. One of its most precious from 1602, in the centre. Water residence of the hunting deer, a passing swan 11am Sun); Mar, Apr, Oct: 10am–5pm
a canal, artificial ruins, a stone pieces is the bronze baptismal was piped here from a source dukes of Wismar. reportedly shouted “Dobr Dobr” daily (from 11am Sun); Nov–Feb: 10am–
bridge and the mausoleum of font (1450). Angels hold the 4 km (2 miles) away, until 1897, The north wing is (a good location) as the deer fell. 4pm daily (from 11am Sun). 8 daily.
Helena Pavlovna, daughter of bowl, on which 22 scenes of to supply 220 private and the most interesting Borwin duly founded the most
– its Mannerist style important Cistercian monastery
was inspired by the of the Baltic region here. The
Italian town of Ferrari Münster was built in 1295–
and north European 1368, with a severe interior and
ceramic traditions a small bell, in accordance with
A pair of fauns from A pair of fauns from (such as Lübeck the order’s rules which stipulate
the portal of the portal of workshop). The that no tower should be built.
Fürstenhof in Wismar magnificent sand­ The interior is fascinating, its
Fürstenhof in Wismar
stone portal is walls surfaced in red, with white
flanked by pairs of intertwined plasterwork and colourful
fauns. Nikolaikirche is a gem of ribbing. Most of the original
Wismar architecture. Spared in fixtures and fittings have
World War II, the façade of this survived almost intact. Among
late­Gothic basilica from the the treasures are a vast, gilded
14th and 15th centuries is panelled painting, produced in
decorated with glazed friezes of Lübeck in 1310, a 12­m (39­ft)
mythological creatures, saints Holy Sacrament made from oak, The monumental Cistercian Münster in
The Baroque residence of the dukes of Mecklenburg-Schwerin in Ludwigslust and, at the peak of the transept, a small cupboard holding the Bad Doberan
For hotels and restaurants in this area see p503 and pp532–3


476-477_EW_Germany.indd 476 09/10/17 2:34 pm 476-477_EW_Germany.indd 477 09/10/17 2:34 pm

MECKLENBURG–L OWER POMER ANIA  477


chalice and relics from an earlier
Romanesque building, as well
as a statue of the Virgin Mary.
Beautiful tombs mark the
resting places of the rulers of
Mecklenburg, of the Danish
Queen Margaret, and Albrecht,
King of Sweden, who died in
1412. Visitors can walk around
the outside of the church which
has a pleasant lawn. Beyond you
can find a small octagonal
building, beautifully decorated
with glazed brickwork – this
lovely piece of 13th­century
architecture is the morgue.
A stroll around the health spa
is also recommended. Right in
Alter Schwede and Wasserspiele in the market square in Wismar its centre it has two early
19th­century pavilions with
16 public buildings. The most a huge rose window. The Chinese features – an ideal
beautiful house on the square is proportions of the interior and place for a coffee break.
the Alter Schwede (old Swede), the height of the vaulted main
built about 1380, with a nave measuring 37 m (121 ft) are Environs
protruding Gothic brick gable. captivating. Some of the interior Another adventure is a trip on
To the west of the market there fixtures and fittings came from the “Molli”, a narrow­gauge
are two churches, which act as other churches in the city, which railway that links Bad Doberan
sad examples of the GDR’s were either ruined or no longer with Heiligen damm and
neglect of its historical legacy. exist, including the so­ called Kühlungsborn, where there is a
The reconstruction of the Krämeraltar with a sculpture of 4­km (2­mile) long beach. On the
Georgenkirche, badly damaged the Beautiful Madonna and Child way, a little gem of 13th­century
in World War II, was (around 1420). The room by the country architecture, the church
begun in 1989, and tower has the most complete in Stefenshagen, calls for a
it will soon be cycle of frescoes in the region visit. On its south portal, see
returned to its (around 1450). the terracotta figures of the
former glory. The apostles. Across the presbytery
Marienkirche has runs a brickwork relief with
only one surviving 5 Bad Doberan mythological creatures.
tower – the ruined Road map D1. * 11,900. £
nave was blown up n Severinstr 6 (038203­621 54). R Doberaner Münster
in 1960. Nearby lies Klosterstraße 2. Tel (038203) 627 16.
the Fürstenhof, When Duke Henry Borwin was Open May–Sep: 9am–6pm daily (from
residence of the hunting deer, a passing swan 11am Sun); Mar, Apr, Oct: 10am–5pm
dukes of Wismar. reportedly shouted “Dobr Dobr” daily (from 11am Sun); Nov–Feb: 10am–
The north wing is (a good location) as the deer fell. 4pm daily (from 11am Sun). 8 daily.
the most interesting Borwin duly founded the most
– its Mannerist style important Cistercian monastery
was inspired by the of the Baltic region here. The
Italian town of Ferrari Münster was built in 1295–
and north European 1368, with a severe interior and
ceramic traditions a small bell, in accordance with
A pair of fauns from (such as Lübeck the order’s rules which stipulate
the portal of workshop). The that no tower should be built.
Fürstenhof in Wismar magnificent sand­ The interior is fascinating, its
stone portal is walls surfaced in red, with white
flanked by pairs of intertwined plasterwork and colourful
fauns. Nikolaikirche is a gem of ribbing. Most of the original
Wismar architecture. Spared in fixtures and fittings have
World War II, the façade of this survived almost intact. Among
late­Gothic basilica from the the treasures are a vast, gilded
14th and 15th centuries is panelled painting, produced in
decorated with glazed friezes of Lübeck in 1310, a 12­m (39­ft)
mythological creatures, saints Holy Sacrament made from oak, The monumental Cistercian Münster in
and, at the peak of the transept, a small cupboard holding the Bad Doberan




476-477_EW_Germany.indd 477 09/10/17 2:34 pm

478  NOR THERN GERM AN Y MECKLENBURG–L OWER POMER ANIA  479


7 Neubrandenburg
Road map E2. * 75 000. £ 8 Nationalpark Müritz VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
n Marktplatz 1 (0395-19 433). Practical Information
∑ neubrandenburg-touristinfo.de There are about a thousand lakes between Schwerin Road map: E2. n Waren, Neuer
and Neubrandenburg; the largest of these is Müritzsee, Markt 21. (03991-66 61 83);
Founded in 1248 as a sister town to the east of which a national park was established in Neustrelitz, Strelitzerstraße 1
to Brandenburg on the Havel, (03981-25 31 19).
the town was laid out in the 1990. A particularly attractive part of the lake district
form of a regular oval. It is the so-called Mecklenburgische Schweiz (Swiss
prospered as a trading centre Mecklenburg), with its hilly moraines, such as Ostberg,
until the Thirty Years’ War, after 115 m (377 ft) above sea level. Tourists are attracted
which it fell into disrepair. by the breathtaking scenery, perfect conditions for
As a result it now has what is water sports and fascinating castles and palaces.
probably the only example of
post-World War II concrete tower
blocks surrounded by medieval 1 Basedow
town walls, which have survived For 600 years Basedow was in
the hands of the von Hahn
The imposing Schloß, dominating the skyline of Güstrow virtually intact. The walls extend family, who built this irregular
for 2.3 km (1.4 miles), originally
6 Güstrow without enlarging, harmon ious with a keep open to the interior, three-winged palace.
without smoothness, and full of and subsequently interspersed
Road map D2. * 32,500. £
n Franz-Parr-Platz 10 (03843-68 10 vitality without brutality”. with half-timbered houses, J 2 Schlitz
23). ∑ guestrow.de Barlach’s work bore the brunt of known as Wiekhäuser (there Malchiner This palace is the most important
National Socialist condemnation were once 58, of which 24 See Neo-Classical monument in
Güstrow is one of the most – the original Schwebende was survive). Of the four city gates Mecklenburg (1800–1823). In its
harmonious towns of the melted down and made into the most interesting are beautiful landscaped park stands
former German Democratic cannons but the copy that Friedländer Tor (begun in 1300), J the Nymphenbrunnen, the
Republic, with an attractive replaced it was made from the with inner and outer gateways famous fountain of nymphs. Cast
old town, unmarred by pre- original plaster cast. Other and a tower, as well as Neues in 1903 in Secessionist style for
the Berlin department store
fabricated tower blocks. All the works by Barlach can be seen in and Stargarder Tor, decorated on Wertheim, it was transferred to
most important monuments the museum dedicated to him. the town side with mysterious this site in 1930.
are within easy reach. The town It is worth concluding a visit terracotta figures of women with
is dominated by the Schloß, to this town in the market, near raised hands (around 1350).
built from 1558 by Franz Parr, a which rises the Pfarrkirche In the town centre stands
member of a renowned family St Marien. This church has a the medieval Marienkirche,
of sculptors and architects from magnificent high altar, a panelled which was damaged during Kölpinsee
northern Italy. German, Italian work of art with painted wings World War II and is now restored
and Dutch elements come by Belgian artists (around 1522). as a concert hall.
together here, including fantas-
tical chimneys and two-storey Environs Environs
arcades in the courtyards. The open-air museum in The castle in Stargard, some
The architect’s brother Groß-Raden, near Sternberg, 10 km (6 miles) to the south, is J
decorated the Festsaal (ballroom) is popular with tourists as well the oldest secular building in Műritz J
with a hunting frieze – the as archaeology students. A Mecklenburg. Its 4 m (13 ft) Woterfitzsee
stucco heads of the deer have village has been re-created with walls were begun in 1200; the Zierrker
See
real antlers. houses, workshops and a system residence in 1236. Today it Jäthensee
In the nearby Dom, a brick of fortifications. houses a youth hostel.
cathedral of the 13th and 14th Grosse Woblitz-
centuries, there is a fascinating E Archäologisches Labussee See
Gothic altar (around 1500). Freilichtmuseum
Look for the vast figures of the Groß-Raden. Tel (03847) 22 52. 4 Müritz
apostles on the pillars of the Open Apr–Oct: 10am–5:30pm daily; Müritz (meaning “small sea”) is,
nave and the 16th-century Nov–Mar: 10am–4:30pm Tue–Sun. at 115 sq km (44 sq miles), the
tomb of Duke Ulrich and his Closed 24 & 31 Dec. second largest lake in Germany 5 Neustrelitz
two wives, with a large after Lake Constance. The palace (1712) was the
genealogical family tree of all seat of distant relations of
three of them. In the north nave Key the Mecklenburg-Strelitz
hangs the burly Schwebende Tour route dukes who established the 3 Waren
(Hovering Angel), a remarkable Scenic route town and its church, and Waren, an ideal base for tourists,
work by Ernst Barlach, who lived after 1733 resided here. is close to Binnenmüritz with
here from 1910 until his death Minor road its beaches and shops with
in 1938. He described his works River, lake 0 km 15 watersports equipment for
to Bertolt Brecht as: “beautiful Viewpoint 0 miles 15 sale or hire.
without beautifying, sizeable A typical half-timbered Wiekhaus in the town wall in Neubrandenburg
For hotels and restaurants in this area see p503 and pp532–3


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Eyewitness Travel LAYERS PRINTED:
Catalogue template “UK” LAYER
(Source v2.3)
Date 6th February 2013
Size 125mm x 217mm

MECKLENBURG–L OWER POMER ANIA  479


8 Nationalpark Müritz VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
Practical Information
There are about a thousand lakes between Schwerin Road map: E2. n Waren, Neuer
and Neubrandenburg; the largest of these is Müritzsee, Markt 21. (03991-66 61 83);
to the east of which a national park was established in Neustrelitz, Strelitzerstraße 1
1990. A particularly attractive part of the lake district (03981-25 31 19).
is the so-called Mecklenburgische Schweiz (Swiss
Mecklenburg), with its hilly moraines, such as Ostberg,
115 m (377 ft) above sea level. Tourists are attracted
by the breathtaking scenery, perfect conditions for
water sports and fascinating castles and palaces.

1 Basedow
For 600 years Basedow was in
the hands of the von Hahn
family, who built this irregular
three-winged palace.
2 Schlitz
J Malchiner This palace is the most important
See Neo-Classical monument in
Mecklenburg (1800–1823). In its
beautiful landscaped park stands
J the Nymphenbrunnen, the
famous fountain of nymphs. Cast
in 1903 in Secessionist style for
the Berlin department store
Wertheim, it was transferred to
this site in 1930.



Kölpinsee





J
Műritz
J
Woterfitzsee
Zierrker
Jäthensee See
Grosse Woblitz-
Labussee See
4 Müritz
Müritz (meaning “small sea”) is,
at 115 sq km (44 sq miles), the
second largest lake in Germany 5 Neustrelitz
after Lake Constance. The palace (1712) was the
seat of distant relations of
Key the Mecklenburg-Strelitz
dukes who established the
Tour route 3 Waren
town and its church, and Waren, an ideal base for tourists,
Scenic route after 1733 resided here. is close to Binnenmüritz with
Minor road its beaches and shops with
River, lake 0 km 15 watersports equipment for
sale or hire.
Viewpoint 0 miles 15




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9 Rostock VISITORS’ CHECKLIST 0 Stralsund VISITORS’ CHECKLIST

Road map E1. * 62,000.
The history of the most important German port in the Baltic Practical Information After Lübeck, Stralsund is the most interesting Hanseatic n Alter Markt 9 (03831-246 90).
has been turbulent. This prosperous Hanseatic town had Road map D1. * 200,000. town in northern Germany. During its history, it has had to ∑ stralsundtourismus.de
n Universitätsplatz 6 and
established trade links with distant ports such as Bergen Warnemünde, Am Strom 59. defend its independence against Lübeck, Denmark, Holland _ Sundschwimmen (Jul);
(Norway), Riga (Latvia) and Bruges (Belgium) as early as the (0381-381 22 22). ∑ rostock.de and Sweden. In the Thirty Years’ War, General Wallenstein Wallenstein-Tage (Jul); Stralsunder
Segelwoche (Jun).
15th century. In 1419 the first university in northern Europe _ Warnemünder Woche (Jul), vowed that he would take the town even if it was chained to
was founded here, and it flourished again in the 19th century. Hansesail (Aug). heaven – but he failed. Subsequently, Lower Pomerania Transport
£
After it suffered heavy damage in the Allied air raids of 1942, Transport stayed under Swedish rule for 200 years until 1815, when it
Rostock was rebuilt on a grand scale as the GDR’s showpiece. £ became Prussian. Despite its turbulent history, 811 protected
buildings survived in the old town, among them some truly E Deutsches Meeresmuseum
remarkable examples of architecture.
R Marienkirche correct time and date until 2017. Katharinenberg 14. Tel (03831) 265
Am Ziegenmarkt 4. Tel (0381) 492 33 Every afternoon its clockwork 0210. Open Jun–Sep 10am–6pm
96. Open phone to check times. & apostles parade for onlookers. Danish king signed a daily; Oct–May: 10am–5pm daily.
This church, meant to exceed the peace treaty here. Closed 24 & 31 Dec. &
height of its Lübeck counterpart, P Kröpelinerstraße The Nikolaikirche, built Highlights of this museum of the
was completed in the mid-15th The most popular street in the from 1270–1360, was sea, based in a former Dominican
century, after almost 250 years city is lined by 17th- to 19th- inspired by French convent and the Ozeanum
of construction. The century houses. In Gothic cathedrals as building, include almost 100
nave, built after the summer students well as the Marienkirche aquariums stocked with sharks,
original roof had congregate around in Lübeck. It has rare seahorses, coral fish and giant
collapsed, has an the “Brunnen der free-standing flying turtles, and a 16-m (52-ft) long
untypical, short body, Lebensfreude” buttresses in brick, skeleton of a fin whale. It is also a
while the massive (fountain of happiness) which are much more scientific establishment research-
western tower is as on Universitätsplatz unusual than in stone. ing the life of sea organisms.
wide as three naves. (university square). Inside there are several
Interconnected The main university The Rathaus with its small turrets intriguing furnishings, R Marienkirche
swathes of glazing building, dating from for example, the statue Tower Open 10am–noon & 2–4pm
Kröpelinerstraße – a promenade with decorate the exterior 1867–70, is in Neo- Exploring Stralsund of St Anna (around 1290), an Mon–Fri, 10am–noon Sat. Organ
17th century houses of the church, while Baptismal font in the Renaissance style. The The town centre of Stralsund astrono mical clock (1394), and concerts: summer: 11am Mon–Wed &
much of the white- Marienkirche southern part of the is surrounded by water on all fragments of the Novgorod stall Fri–Sun. &
Exploring Rostock washed interior square is occupied by sides – in the north by the with various fascinating scenes, Dominating the Neuer Mark is
A visit to the town is best features star vaulting. The main a palace with a beautiful Baroque Strelasund bay, and on the other including one of hunting for the town’s largest church, St
started from the Neuer Markt attraction is the astrono mical hall where concerts are hosted. sides by lakes formed in the sables. The Baroque main altar Mary’s, built in 1383–1473, with
(new market), from where the clock, built in 1472 by maestro A Neo-Classical annexe with a moats of the former bastions, was designed in 1798 by an octagonal tower (with good
most important monuments Düringer of Nuremberg. It was Doric colonnade (1823) stands Knieperteich and Frankenteich. renowned Berlin architect and views of Stralsund). Star vaulting
can easily be reached on foot. made to continue showing the nearby. A statue on the square All the most interesting sculptor Andreas Schlüter. lightens the impact of the
commemorates the town’s most historic monuments are monumental 99-m (325-ft) high
P Rathaus famous resident, Field Marshal easily accessible on E Kulturhisto risches interior. Main attractions are
The town hall, on Neuer Markt, Blücher, who helped defeat foot from here. Museum Gothic frescoes, carved wooden
has a Baroque façade (added in Napoleon at Waterloo. Mönchstraße 25/27. figures of saints and a late-Gothic
1727–9), from which seven P Alter Markt Tel (0381) 12 87 90. font. The huge Baroque organ is
Gothic towers of the original Environs The old market Open Feb–Nov: used for concerts in summer.
building emerge. At the rear Between Rostock and Stralsund square affords the 10am–5pm daily. &
of the building, in Große lies a delightful coastal area. The best view of the The Katharinen klos-
Wasserstraße, it is worth peninsula, with the three former filigree façade of the Portal of the Nikolaikirche ter, a former 15th-
seeking out Kerkoffhaus, the islands of Fischland, Darß and town hall, beyond century Dominican
best preserved Gothic house Zingst, attracts visitors to its which stands the vast abbey, now houses
in Rostock with a splendidly quiet, beautiful beaches and edifice of St Michael’s church. two museums. Its abbey rooms
ornate façade featuring glazed splendid natural scenery. It is surrounded by houses provide an appropriate setting
brickwork, dating from 1470. Particularly attractive are the from various eras, of which the for historic exhibitions – the
villages of Ahrenshoop, which two most important are the refectory has vaults supported
P Steintor was originally an artists’ colony, Gothic Wulflamhaus, and the by stylish columns – including
A few minutes south of Neuer Prerow, which has traditional Commandantenhaus, Baroque copies of the famous Viking
Markt is the Steintor, the best fishermen’s houses and headquarters of the town’s treasure from Hiddensee and a
known of the gates in the old churches, and Wieck, with its former Swedish commandant. collection of 18th- and
city wall. One of only three charming thatched houses. The Rathaus dates from the 13th 19th-century toys and dolls’
surviving gates of the original A national park has been century with a 14th-century houses. A branch of the
fortifications (at one time with established here, and includes façade and ground-floor Muse um, in Böttcherstrasse,
22 gates), it received its Darß and its magnificent forest, arcades, and resembles the one has a collection devoted
characteristic crowning feature The richly decorated pulpit in Zingst, the west coast of Rügen in Lübeck. In 1370 the Hanseatic to village life, folklore and Marienkirche with its dominant,
during the Renaissance. the Marienkirche and the island of Hiddensee. League and the defeated costumes of the Baltic region. octagonal tower
For hotels and restaurants in this area see p503 and pp532–3


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MECKLENBURG–L OWER POMER ANIA  481

0 Stralsund VISITORS’ CHECKLIST

Road map E1. * 62,000.
After Lübeck, Stralsund is the most interesting Hanseatic n Alter Markt 9 (03831-246 90).
town in northern Germany. During its history, it has had to ∑ stralsundtourismus.de
defend its independence against Lübeck, Denmark, Holland _ Sundschwimmen (Jul);
and Sweden. In the Thirty Years’ War, General Wallenstein Wallenstein-Tage (Jul); Stralsunder
Segelwoche (Jun).
vowed that he would take the town even if it was chained to
heaven – but he failed. Subsequently, Lower Pomerania Transport
£
stayed under Swedish rule for 200 years until 1815, when it
became Prussian. Despite its turbulent history, 811 protected
buildings survived in the old town, among them some truly E Deutsches Meeresmuseum
remarkable examples of architecture. Katharinenberg 14. Tel (03831) 265
0210. Open Jun–Sep 10am–6pm
Danish king signed a daily; Oct–May: 10am–5pm daily.
peace treaty here. Closed 24 & 31 Dec. &
The Nikolaikirche, built Highlights of this museum of the
from 1270–1360, was sea, based in a former Dominican
inspired by French convent and the Ozeanum
Gothic cathedrals as building, include almost 100
well as the Marienkirche aquariums stocked with sharks,
in Lübeck. It has rare seahorses, coral fish and giant
free-standing flying turtles, and a 16-m (52-ft) long
buttresses in brick, skeleton of a fin whale. It is also a
which are much more scientific establishment research-
unusual than in stone. ing the life of sea organisms.
Inside there are several
The Rathaus with its small turrets intriguing furnishings, R Marienkirche
for example, the statue Tower Open 10am–noon & 2–4pm
Exploring Stralsund of St Anna (around 1290), an Mon–Fri, 10am–noon Sat. Organ
The town centre of Stralsund astrono mical clock (1394), and concerts: summer: 11am Mon–Wed &
is surrounded by water on all fragments of the Novgorod stall Fri–Sun. &
sides – in the north by the with various fascinating scenes, Dominating the Neuer Mark is
Strelasund bay, and on the other including one of hunting for the town’s largest church, St
sides by lakes formed in the sables. The Baroque main altar Mary’s, built in 1383–1473, with
moats of the former bastions, was designed in 1798 by an octagonal tower (with good
Knieperteich and Frankenteich. renowned Berlin architect and views of Stralsund). Star vaulting
All the most interesting sculptor Andreas Schlüter. lightens the impact of the
historic monuments are monumental 99-m (325-ft) high
easily accessible on E Kulturhisto risches interior. Main attractions are
foot from here. Museum Gothic frescoes, carved wooden
Mönchstraße 25/27. figures of saints and a late-Gothic
P Alter Markt Tel (0381) 12 87 90. font. The huge Baroque organ is
The old market Open Feb–Nov: used for concerts in summer.
square affords the 10am–5pm daily. &
best view of the The Katharinen klos-
filigree façade of the Portal of the Nikolaikirche ter, a former 15th-
town hall, beyond century Dominican
which stands the vast abbey, now houses
edifice of St Michael’s church. two museums. Its abbey rooms
It is surrounded by houses provide an appropriate setting
from various eras, of which the for historic exhibitions – the
two most important are the refectory has vaults supported
Gothic Wulflamhaus, and the by stylish columns – including
Commandantenhaus, Baroque copies of the famous Viking
headquarters of the town’s treasure from Hiddensee and a
former Swedish commandant. collection of 18th- and
The Rathaus dates from the 13th 19th-century toys and dolls’
century with a 14th-century houses. A branch of the
façade and ground-floor Muse um, in Böttcherstrasse,
arcades, and resembles the one has a collection devoted
in Lübeck. In 1370 the Hanseatic to village life, folklore and Marienkirche with its dominant,
League and the defeated costumes of the Baltic region. octagonal tower




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482  NOR THERN GERM AN Y MECKLENBURG–L OWER POMER ANIA  483

q Rügen Kap Arkona Jasmund Peninsula VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
There are two The northeast of the
The largest of Germany’s islands at 926 sq km lighthouses on Kap peninsula is occupied Practical Information
(357 sq miles), Rügen is also the most Arkona. The smaller was by the Stubnitz forest Road map E1. n Bergen,
of beech trees, which
beautiful and diverse, boasting steep cliffs built in 1827 and is now continues down to the sea, Markt 23 (03838-811 206). Binz,
a museum. The larger
Heinrich-Heine-Straße 7 (038393-
next to sandy beaches and a hilly hinterland was built in 1902 and is interrupted by dazzling 148 148); Hiddensee, Norderende
with forests and peat bogs. The island is only still in use. white chalk cliffs. The 162, Vitte (038300-642 26);
50 km (31 miles) across, yet its rugged symbol of Rügen, they Putbus, Alleestraße 35 (038301-4
inspired artists like
coastline extends for hundreds of miles. Caspar David Friedrich. 31). _ In Ralswiek (near Bergen)
open-air performances take
J
The Huns once ruled here, and their tombs J place under the title of “Festival
can still be seen. It was fortified by the Slavs, Arkona Arkona of Klaus Störtebeker” (Jun–Sep).
then ruled by Danes and Swedes. In 1815 ∑ ruegen.de
Rügen came under Prussian rule, and in Nobbin Nobbin Transport
1936 it was linked to the mainland by the Altenkirchen Altenkirchen £
1-km (0.6-mile)-long Rügendamm.
Dranske Dranske
Wiek Wiek W W Tromper Tromper
O O Wiek Wiek
Key T T Breege Breege
T T Lohme Lohme
J
Motorway J I I
Main road BUG BUG W W J J J J
Ferry crossing KlosterKloster Lebbiner Lebbiner J J N A TI O N AL N A TI O N AL
Viewpoint VitteVitte Bodden Bodden Glowe Glowe
P A R K P A R K
JASMUND J J
JASMUND
Großer Großer Sagard Sagard
Jasmunder Jasmunder Sassnitz Sassnitz
J A S M U N D Königsstuhl (king’s seat; 119 m/390 ft), continues along
Schaprode Schaprode Trent Trent Bodden Bodden
HIDDENSEE HIDDENSEE A S M U N D . Nationalpark Jasmund
An attractive walk starts at the viewpoint of

J
the Hochuferweg (cliff-top walk), past Victoriasicht and
Wissower Klinken viewpoints, to end at Sassnitz.
U M M A N Z Gingst Gingst Jasmunder Jasmunder Prorer Prorer
U M M A N Z
Kleiner Kleiner
Bodden Bodden
Wiek Wiek
Bergen
. Waase Bergen
At this typical fishing village Ostseebad
Ostseebad
on the island of Ummanz, Binz
Binz
an unusual work of art has Ostseebad Binz
Ostseebad
survived: an altarpiece from Kubitzer Kubitzer Ostseebad Rügen’s largest and most
Seillin
Bodden Bodden
Antwerp, from around 1520. Seillin popular seaside resort, Binz
Ostseebad Baabe has a beautiful white beach,
Ostseebad Baabe
Putbus
Putbus J J grand early 20th-century
villas and a pier.
Ostseebad
Samtens Samtens Ostseebad
Göhren
Göhren
Rügischer Bodden Rügischer Bodden
0 km 5 Garz Garz
Stralsund Stralsund
0 miles 5
Poseritz Poseritz
Greifswalder Greifswalder
KEY Bodden Bodden
1 Hiddensee is a small island and . Putbus
is accessible by ferry from Stralsund This elegant late Neo-Classical town
or Schaprode on Rügen. Horse- was planned after 1807 on the model
drawn carts and bikes replace cars in of Bad Doberan. Its centrepiece is
this oasis of tranquillity. Brandshagen the theatre, which was built in 1819
Brandshagen
Stahlbrode
Stahlbrode to a design by Wilhelm Steinbach.
For hotels and restaurants in this area see pp503 and pp532–3
Reinberg
Reinberg
482-483_EW_Germany.indd 482 09/10/17 2:34 pm 482-483_EW_Germany.indd 483 09/10/17 2:34 pm
Eyewitness Travel LAYERS PRINTED:
Starsight template “UK” LAYER
(Source v2.5)
Date 6th February2013
Size 125mm x 217mm

MECKLENBURG–L OWER POMER ANIA  483


Jasmund Peninsula VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
The northeast of the
peninsula is occupied Practical Information
by the Stubnitz forest Road map E1. n Bergen,
of beech trees, which Markt 23 (03838-811 206). Binz,
continues down to the sea, Heinrich-Heine-Straße 7 (038393-
interrupted by dazzling 148 148); Hiddensee, Norderende
white chalk cliffs. The 162, Vitte (038300-642 26);
symbol of Rügen, they Putbus, Alleestraße 35 (038301-4
inspired artists like 31). _ In Ralswiek (near Bergen)
Caspar David Friedrich. open-air performances take
J
Arkona place under the title of “Festival
of Klaus Störtebeker” (Jun–Sep).
∑ ruegen.de
Nobbin Transport
£
Altenkirchen

Dranske
Wiek W Tromper
O Wiek
T Breege
T Lohme
J W I

BUG J J
Kloster Lebbiner J N A TI O N AL
Vitte Bodden Glowe
P A R K
JASMUND J
Großer Sagard
Jasmunder Sassnitz
Schaprode Trent Bodden
. Nationalpark Jasmund
HIDDENSEE A S M U N D An attractive walk starts at the viewpoint of
J Königsstuhl (king’s seat; 119 m/390 ft), continues along
the Hochuferweg (cliff-top walk), past Victoriasicht and
Wissower Klinken viewpoints, to end at Sassnitz.
U M M A N Z Gingst Jasmunder Prorer
Kleiner
Bodden
Wiek
Bergen
Ostseebad
Binz Ostseebad Binz
Kubitzer Ostseebad Rügen’s largest and most
Bodden Seillin popular seaside resort, Binz
Ostseebad Baabe has a beautiful white beach,
Putbus J grand early 20th-century
villas and a pier.
Samtens Ostseebad
Göhren
Rügischer Bodden
Garz
Stralsund
Poseritz
Greifswalder
Bodden
. Putbus
This elegant late Neo-Classical town
was planned after 1807 on the model
of Bad Doberan. Its centrepiece is
Brandshagen the theatre, which was built in 1819
Stahlbrode to a design by Wilhelm Steinbach.
For hotels and restaurants in this area see pp503 and pp532–3
Reinberg

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w Greifswald Friedrich, including his famous of the famous Dance of Death
landscapes of the ruined by Hans Holbein in Basle.
Road map E1. * 54,000. £ monastery of Eldena, Ruined Another notable artifact is the
n Rathaus Am Markt (03834-853 61
380). _ Musical concerts Eldena in the Riesengebirge, epitaph of Duke Philip I, crafted
which he transposed to the
in 1560 by the Saxon artist
“Greifswalder Bachwochen” (Jun); Jazz
Evenings in Eldena (Jul); Fischerfest mountains of present-day Wolf Hilinger.
(Jul). ∑ greifswald.info Poland and Czech Republic. Other attractions in the town
The market square with are the Alter Speicher, an 80 m-
This former Hanseatic town is its Baroque town hall is (262 ft-) long half-timbered
situated 5 km (3 miles) from the surrounded by patrician granary (Burgstraße, 1836), and
Bay of Greifswald. From afar the houses, with exemplary rich the family home of Philipp Otto
picturesque silhouette of the brickwork façades (particularly Runge, famous romantic painter
town with its three church numbers 11 and 13). Nearby and adopted son of Hamburg.
towers, nicknamed Fat Mary, rises the vast Dom St Nikolai.
Little Jakob and Long Michael, The cathedral’s octagonal P Philipp-Otto-Runge-
appears like a painting by tower, topped with a Baroque Gedenkstätte Fishing boat on the beach at Usedom
Caspar David Friedrich – the helm, affords extensive views Kronwieckstraße 45. Tel (03836) 20 30
town’s most famous resident – of the town. The Rubenow-Bild 41. Open May–Oct: 11am–6pm Tue– daily; Oct & May: 10am–5pm façade. During the past few
come to life. Charm pervades (1460), one of the paintings Alter Speicher – the half-timbered Fri, 11am–4pm Sat & Sun. Tue–Fri, 1pm–5pm Sat & Sun; years, the early 20th-century
the old town, its architectural inside, depicts the founding granary in Wolgast Nov–Apr: 11am–3:30pm Wed–Fri, piers in all three spas have
mix resulting from 40 years of professor of Greifswald’s 1pm–3:30pm Sun. been rebuilt and restored.
East German rule. Greifswald, an university in front of Mary, e Wolgast The longest, in Heringsdorf,
important academic centre and Mother of God. Road map E1. * 15,000. £ n is also the second largest in
market town, has geared up Rathausplatz 10 (03836-60 01 18). _ t Usedom Europe, after one in Poland.
more for tourism since 1989. It is Environs Hafenfest (Jul). ∑ stadt-wolgast.de Road map E2. £ n Heringsdorf, The Marienkirche, one of the
certainly worth a visit – a short Wieck, an attractive working Kurverwaltung, Waldstraße 1 (038378- island’s main attractions, was
walk from east to west enables fishing village, is now From 1295 the seat of the 477 10); Ahlbeck, Kurverwaltung, erected in the 19th century.
visitors to see all the most incorporated into Greifswald. Pomeranian-Wolgast dukes, Dünenstraße 45 (038378-244 14).
important monuments in town. It has a drawbridge dating from Wolgast castle was destroyed in
The 14th-century Marien- 1887, reminiscent of typical 1713, when Peter the Great The island, named after the y Peenemünde
kir che has a vast square Dutch bridges. The Cistercian ordered the town to be burned. village of Usedom and Road map E1. * 650.
tower, giving it a rather squat monastery of Eldena, just A notable surviving building is separated from the mainland
appearance and its nickname, 1 km (0.6 mile) south of Wieck the 12-sided cemetery chapel by the Peenestrom, is the Historically, the most
Fat Mary. Inside, the church district, was made famous by with star vaulting, supported One of the models in the Otto second largest in Germany interesting spot on the island
contains the remains of frescoes the Romantic paintings of by a single column. The most Lilienthal-Museum in Anklam at 445 sq km (172 sq miles). of Usedom is the museum
and an amazing Renaissance Caspar David Friedrich. The valuable work of art can now A small corner in the east at Peenemünde, which is
pulpit depicting the Reform- monastery was founded in be seen in Pfarrkirche St Petri, r Anklam was incorporated into Poland located on military territory.
ation figures of Luther, Bugen- 1199 and plundered by the a 14th-century parish church. Road map E2. * 16,400. £ after 1945. Usedom is almost It demonstrates the evolution
hagen and Melanchthon. The Swedes in 1637. Its ruined red Dating from the turn of the n Markt 3, Rathaus (03971-835 154). as attractive as Rügen, posses- of space travel, pioneered
Gemäldegalerie has a collection walls amid the green grass and 17th to the 18th century, the ∑ anklam.de sing white beaches, forests, at this research station since
of paintings by Caspar David trees look wildly romantic. Totentanz frieze is an imitation peat bogs and bays overgrown 1936. During World War II,
A former Hanseatic town, with rushes in the south. It long-distance rockets,
Anklam’s erstwhile importance is linked with the mainland powered by liquid fuel
is revealed by its vast defensive by two drawbridges (near and known as V-2 (Vergel­
walls, in which is set the mid- Anklam and Wolgast). tungswaffe; retaliatory
15th-century city gate, Steintor. The resorts follow one weapon), were produced
It is worth visiting the Gothic another like pearls on a here, which inflicted
Marienkirche. Inside, the string: Bansin, Heringsdorf heavy damage on the
church’s octagonal pillars and and Ahlbeck, known cities of London and
the arches of its arcades are as the “three sisters”, are Antwerp in 1944. After
painted with graceful figures, connected by a wide the war, the chief
which reveal a Lübeck influence. beach. At the beginning engineer, Wernher
A museum recalls the life and of the 20th century they von Braun, worked for
inventions of Otto Lilienthal, born evolved into elegant NASA and helped develop
here in 1848. After observing holiday resorts, with white the Apollo rockets.
storks, he built a flying machine villas, hotels and boarding
and completed his first flight in houses, as typical of E Historisch-technisches
1891. In total he created 2,000 seaside resorts. Worth a Museum
machines, none of which flew visit is the industrialist Im Kraftwerk. Tel (038371)
further than 350 m (1148 ft). Oechler’s house in 50 50. Open Apr–Sep:
Heringsdorf (Delbrück- 10am–6pm; Oct–Mar:
E Otto-Lilienthal-Museum straße 5), which has an 10am–4pm. Closed
Ellbogenstraße 1. Tel (03971) 24 55 antique appearance V-2 rocket Mon (Nov–Mar).
Renovated houses around the Fischmarkt in Greifswald 00. Open Jun–Sep: 10am–5pm with mosaics on its in Peenemünde ∑ peenemuende.de
For hotels and restaurants in this area see p503 and pp532–3


484-485_EW_Germany.indd 484 09/10/17 2:34 pm 484-485_EW_Germany.indd 485 09/10/17 2:34 pm
Eyewitness Travel LAYERS PRINTED:
Catalogue template “UK” LAYER
(Source v2.2)
Date 15th January 2013
Size 125mm x 217mm

MECKLENBURG–L OWER POMER ANIA  485


of the famous Dance of Death
by Hans Holbein in Basle.
Another notable artifact is the
epitaph of Duke Philip I, crafted
in 1560 by the Saxon artist
Wolf Hilinger.
Other attractions in the town
are the Alter Speicher, an 80 m-
(262 ft-) long half-timbered
granary (Burgstraße, 1836), and
the family home of Philipp Otto
Runge, famous romantic painter
and adopted son of Hamburg.
P Philipp-Otto-Runge-
Gedenkstätte Fishing boat on the beach at Usedom
Kronwieckstraße 45. Tel (03836) 20 30
41. Open May–Oct: 11am–6pm Tue– daily; Oct & May: 10am–5pm façade. During the past few
Fri, 11am–4pm Sat & Sun. Tue–Fri, 1pm–5pm Sat & Sun; years, the early 20th-century
Nov–Apr: 11am–3:30pm Wed–Fri, piers in all three spas have
1pm–3:30pm Sun. been rebuilt and restored.
The longest, in Heringsdorf,
is also the second largest in
t Usedom Europe, after one in Poland.
The Marienkirche, one of the
Road map E2. £ n Heringsdorf,
Kurverwaltung, Waldstraße 1 (038378- island’s main attractions, was
477 10); Ahlbeck, Kurverwaltung, erected in the 19th century.
Dünenstraße 45 (038378-244 14).
The island, named after the y Peenemünde
village of Usedom and Road map E1. * 650.
separated from the mainland
by the Peenestrom, is the Historically, the most
One of the models in the Otto second largest in Germany interesting spot on the island
Lilienthal-Museum in Anklam at 445 sq km (172 sq miles). of Usedom is the museum
A small corner in the east at Peenemünde, which is
r Anklam was incorporated into Poland located on military territory.
after 1945. Usedom is almost It demonstrates the evolution
Road map E2. * 16,400. £
n Markt 3, Rathaus (03971-835 154). as attractive as Rügen, posses- of space travel, pioneered
∑ anklam.de sing white beaches, forests, at this research station since
peat bogs and bays overgrown 1936. During World War II,
A former Hanseatic town, with rushes in the south. It long-distance rockets,
Anklam’s erstwhile importance is linked with the mainland powered by liquid fuel
is revealed by its vast defensive by two drawbridges (near and known as V-2 (Vergel­
walls, in which is set the mid- Anklam and Wolgast). tungswaffe; retaliatory
15th-century city gate, Steintor. The resorts follow one weapon), were produced
It is worth visiting the Gothic another like pearls on a here, which inflicted
Marienkirche. Inside, the string: Bansin, Heringsdorf heavy damage on the
church’s octagonal pillars and and Ahlbeck, known cities of London and
the arches of its arcades are as the “three sisters”, are Antwerp in 1944. After
painted with graceful figures, connected by a wide the war, the chief
which reveal a Lübeck influence. beach. At the beginning engineer, Wernher
A museum recalls the life and of the 20th century they von Braun, worked for
inventions of Otto Lilienthal, born evolved into elegant NASA and helped develop
here in 1848. After observing holiday resorts, with white the Apollo rockets.
storks, he built a flying machine villas, hotels and boarding
and completed his first flight in houses, as typical of E Historisch-technisches
1891. In total he created 2,000 seaside resorts. Worth a Museum
machines, none of which flew visit is the industrialist Im Kraftwerk. Tel (038371)
further than 350 m (1148 ft). Oechler’s house in 50 50. Open Apr–Sep:
Heringsdorf (Delbrück- 10am–6pm; Oct–Mar:
E Otto-Lilienthal-Museum straße 5), which has an 10am–4pm. Closed
Ellbogenstraße 1. Tel (03971) 24 55 antique appearance V-2 rocket Mon (Nov–Mar).
00. Open Jun–Sep: 10am–5pm with mosaics on its in Peenemünde ∑ peenemuende.de




484-485_EW_Germany.indd 485 09/10/17 2:34 pm

TRAVELLERS’


NEEDS





Where to Stay 488–503

Where to Eat and Drink 504–533
Shopping in Germany 534–535
Outdoor Activities and
Specialist Holidays 536–539















































486-487_EW_Germany.indd 486 09/10/17 2:34 pm 486-487_EW_Germany.indd 487 09/10/17 2:34 pm
Eyewitness Travel LAYERS PRINTED:
Section openers template “UK” LAYER
(SourceReport v1.1)
Date 15th November 2012
Size 125mm x 217mm

TRAVELLERS’


NEEDS





Where to Stay 488–503

Where to Eat and Drink 504–533
Shopping in Germany 534–535
Outdoor Activities and
Specialist Holidays 536–539















































486-487_EW_Germany.indd 487 09/10/17 2:34 pm

488  TR A VELLERS ’ NEEDS WHERE T O ST A Y  489
WHERE TO STAY Many hotels offer significant

reductions at weekends,
It is relatively easy to find a room in a hotel or consideration, it may be necessary to take and sometimes there is the
a pension in Germany, even in small towns a room in a hotel that is some distance from opportunity of a discount for
or large villages. The range of prices for a the city centre. Within the list of hotels those who turn up without a
night’s accommodation is wide, depending provided on pages 492–503 there is a large reservation. Booking early may
also secure a discounted rate.
on the standard of services offered and the range of hotels and pensions, which Prices can sometimes be
location of the establishment. In smaller represent various price categories and a negotiated for longer bookings,
towns located in attractive tourist areas, high standard of services. Tourist offices especially during periods
it is also possible to find rooms to rent supply lists of accommodation options when business is slack.
at a reasonable rate in private homes. In and may be able to find a room for you. The deluxe Fairmont Hotel Vier Jahreszeiten on the Jungfernstieg in Hamburg (see p502)
large towns and cities it is harder to find Information on types of accommodation International and and Palace Hotels or Romantik Additional Costs
inexpensive accommodation. If cost is a can be found on pages 490–91. German Chain Hotels Hotels & Restau rants, which Tax is included in the basic
Virtually all the well-known can provide further information. price of a hotel room, but tips
international hotel chains are should be given for additional
How to Book
present in Germany, and there services, such as having your
As with many European are also hotels belonging to Hotel Prices baggage taken to your room
destinations, hotel accomm­ German chains. Many towns A complicated system of hotel or having theatre tickets
odation in Germany can be in Germany have an Ibis, categorization operates in reserved for you. Additional
booked directly by telephone, which can be relied on to Germany, with a diverse range of costs can come as a surprise
email or through the hotel’s provide inexpensive, usually prices depending on the season, when you settle your bill. In
website. Reservations can two-star accommodation. as well as on various events that the most expensive hotels,
also be made through a local Somewhat more expensive, are taking place. In resort areas, for example, breakfast is not
tourist office or a third party and of a higher standard, are the hotels are obviously most included in the cost of the
provider, such as Expedia.de or hotels belonging to the Best expensive during the summer, room. Most hotels have their
Hotels.com. Western chain. Their excellent while in large cities visited own parking facilities, but the
Hotels may request written standard of service, combined frequently for business the most cost may be unacceptably
confirmation of the booking with an affordable price, ensures expensive seasons are spring high. Check in advance the
and will almost certainly ask for their popularity with visitors. and autumn. In cities where cost of making direct-dialled
a credit card number to guar­ Hotels belonging to the Sorat commercial fairs are held, prices telephone calls from your
The lounge area of the fun budget hotel Circus, Berlin (see p492) antee the reservation. Give an group have a similar standard may double during the most room, as well as the
indication of expected time of to Best Western establishments popular fairs – for example, in commission charged by the
The Range of Hotels group of friends can turn out arrival especially if it’s likely to and are also recommended. Berlin during the tourist fair ITB, hotel for cashing travellers’
German hotels are rated to be very economical. be late at night. This will ensure They can be two-, three- or in Hanover during the cheques and the rate offered
according to a star system that Standards vary enormously that the room is held for you. even four-star, and their information-computer fair CeBIT when exchanging currency.
is also used in many other between hotels. In large cities For those who have not pre­ premises always have interesting and in Frankfurt during the car Using the mini-bar and
countries. The number of stars visitors will have no difficulty in booked, the local tourist office interiors, often designed by and publishing fairs. The same is pay-to-view TV channels
awarded to an establishment finding a deluxe (and, of course, can usually find a hotel room or renowned architects. Many true in Munich during the in your room can also prove
depends on the facilities offered expensive) hotel, which will provide information about hotels belonging to chains October beer festival. to be expensive.
rather than the standard of typically be part of an rooms in private homes. are, in fact, four- or deluxe
service. As a result, it may be international chain. The five-star. Among the finest are
possible to enjoy a more choice of less expensive the Kempinski and Vier
pleasant stay in a small hotel accommodation usually, Jahreszeiten hotels. In addition
that has only one star than in a though not necessarily to these, there is no shortage
three­star hotel that offers lifts, always, entails accepting a of hotels belonging to chains
a restaurant, swimming pool lower standard of service or such as Hilton, Holiday Inn,
and business centre, but where a less convenient location. InterContinental, Mercure,
refurbishment is long overdue. Away from the larger Ramada and Hyatt Regency.
The word “Garni” in the cities, high prices
name of the hotel indicates generally apply to rooms Hotels in
that there is not a restaurant in comfortable hotels in
on the premises, but only a particularly peaceful and Historic Buildings
dining room where breakfast beautiful locations, or to Germany has numerous
is served. “Apartmenthotel” those located within palaces, castles and other
means that the establishment historic palaces or villas. historic buildings that have
is comprised of suites that Smaller hotels in such been converted into hotels.
include equipped kitchens or areas usually offer good Often the name Schloßhotel
a kitchen annexe. The price accommodation at is used to indicate that an
of suites is such that it is not affordable prices, and establishment is a hotel within
worth booking them for just visitors can enjoy their a palace. Many of these hotels
one night, although a booking stay in small, but cosy are members of international
of several days for a family or and comfortable, rooms. Luxurious bar at Adlon Kempinski, Berlin (see p492) organizations, such as Castle The elegant spa in the Hotel de Rome, Berlin (see p492)
The shopping centre Quartier 206, on Berlin’s Friedrichstraße



488-489_EW_Germany.indd 488 09/10/17 12:50 pm 488-489_EW_Germany.indd 489 09/10/17 12:50 pm

WHERE T O ST A Y  489


Many hotels offer significant
reductions at weekends,
and sometimes there is the
opportunity of a discount for
those who turn up without a
reservation. Booking early may
also secure a discounted rate.
Prices can sometimes be
negotiated for longer bookings,
especially during periods
when business is slack.
The deluxe Fairmont Hotel Vier Jahreszeiten on the Jungfernstieg in Hamburg (see p502)
International and and Palace Hotels or Romantik Additional Costs
German Chain Hotels Hotels & Restau rants, which Tax is included in the basic
Virtually all the well-known can provide further information. price of a hotel room, but tips
international hotel chains are should be given for additional
present in Germany, and there Hotel Prices services, such as having your
are also hotels belonging to baggage taken to your room
German chains. Many towns A complicated system of hotel or having theatre tickets
in Germany have an Ibis, categorization operates in reserved for you. Additional
which can be relied on to Germany, with a diverse range of costs can come as a surprise
provide inexpensive, usually prices depending on the season, when you settle your bill. In
two-star accommodation. as well as on various events that the most expensive hotels,
Somewhat more expensive, are taking place. In resort areas, for example, breakfast is not
and of a higher standard, are the hotels are obviously most included in the cost of the
hotels belonging to the Best expensive during the summer, room. Most hotels have their
Western chain. Their excellent while in large cities visited own parking facilities, but the
standard of service, combined frequently for business the most cost may be unacceptably
with an affordable price, ensures expensive seasons are spring high. Check in advance the
their popularity with visitors. and autumn. In cities where cost of making direct-dialled
Hotels belonging to the Sorat commercial fairs are held, prices telephone calls from your
group have a similar standard may double during the most room, as well as the
to Best Western establishments popular fairs – for example, in commission charged by the
and are also recommended. Berlin during the tourist fair ITB, hotel for cashing travellers’
They can be two-, three- or in Hanover during the cheques and the rate offered
even four-star, and their information-computer fair CeBIT when exchanging currency.
premises always have interesting and in Frankfurt during the car Using the mini-bar and
interiors, often designed by and publishing fairs. The same is pay-to-view TV channels
renowned architects. Many true in Munich during the in your room can also prove
hotels belonging to chains October beer festival. to be expensive.
are, in fact, four- or deluxe
five-star. Among the finest are
the Kempinski and Vier
Jahreszeiten hotels. In addition
to these, there is no shortage
of hotels belonging to chains
such as Hilton, Holiday Inn,
InterContinental, Mercure,
Ramada and Hyatt Regency.
Hotels in
Historic Buildings
Germany has numerous
palaces, castles and other
historic buildings that have
been converted into hotels.
Often the name Schloßhotel
is used to indicate that an
establishment is a hotel within
a palace. Many of these hotels
are members of international
organizations, such as Castle The elegant spa in the Hotel de Rome, Berlin (see p492)




488-489_EW_Germany.indd 489 09/10/17 12:50 pm

490  TR A VELLERS ’ NEEDS WHERE T O ST A Y  491

Camping and Travelling
Private accommodation
provides another inexpensive Caravanning with Children
option. In attractive tourist Travelling with a camping trailer, In most hotels, cots
areas, it is quite common for camper van or just a tent is very and high chairs can be
owners of large villas and popular in Germany, which has obtained, and often
private houses to rent rooms a highly developed network of young children can stay
to tourists, often offering more than 2,000 camping sites. for free. In better hotels,
breakfast as well. Houses Of a generally high standard, a few hours of baby-
with rooms available to sites have washrooms and sitting can usually be
rent are indicated by the kitchens. There is usually a booked. For older
sign Fremdenzimmer or shop and café, and some children, expect to pay
Zimmer frei. Details of such even have swimming pools. for an extra bed.
accommodation can be
Minimalist decor at the Motel One München (see p495), a budget option in Munich obtained and booked in Disabled Travellers Recommended
tourist information offices.
Gasthof and Pensionen Hotels
in possession of a valid During the summer Virtually all hotels of a higher
A Gasthof is a traditional inn membership card issued by months in university towns, standard are equipped to The hotels recomm-
with a restaurant on the the Youth Hostels Association students may also benefit accommodate disabled guests. ended in the following
ground floor and rooms to (YHA). This can be obtained from accommodation in At least one entrance will have listings have been
rent on the upper floor. Be from the YHA in your own hotels that house university ramp access, and a few rooms chosen because they
aware, however, that this simple country. Although overnight students during term times. will have bathrooms adapted to represent the best that A mountain shelter in Oybin, Saxony
description covers a wide range accommodation is open to Again, information about the needs of those who are German accomm-
of establishments – from small, anyone in possession of a such accommodation may confined to a wheelchair. In odation has to offer in hospit- Pensionen offer a personable
inexpensive, family-run hotels valid membership card, things be found at tourist offices. lower-category hotels, though, ality, location and value. experience, with breakfast,
with modestly equipped rooms, are slightly different in Bavaria. specially adapted fixtures and Budget hotels offer good while Gasthöfe are traditional
to luxurious and elegant In this region, young people are Agrotourism fittings tend to be rarer. In such value accommodation, ideal for inns with a restaurant. Historic
accommodation in an given priority, but older people hotels, you may have to shorter stays, while mid-range options may be an old hotel
exquisitely restored country inn. can stay, too (although for an Agrotourism, a type of farm negotiate steep stairs to reach hotels include some facilities. or a hotel in an old building.
Pensionen are less formal additional charge), as can holiday, is very popular in rooms on the upper floors. So-called business hotels offer Entries high lighted as
establishments than hotels families with young children. Germany as an attractive, In order to receive additional Wi-Fi connectivity and the use DK Choice are those that
and are typically run by a The cost for a one-night stay low-cost and eco-friendly help and advice during their of meeting rooms. stand out. They may have
family. They usually provide with breakfast is around accommodation choice. trip, disabled travellers can Boutique hotels tend to be an enviable location, offer an
modest sleeping quarters, €13.50–25. Unless you have a The rooms are of a perfectly contact the Bundes arbeits- small and usually feature high incredible service or be
breakfast and a pleasant family sheet sleeping bag, you must acceptable standard, and gemeinschaft Selbsthilfe e.V., design elements, while luxury particularly charm ing.
atmosphere. They are always hire one at the hostel, meals are often also provided. or the Bundesverband Selbst- hotels encompass the finest of Whatever the reason, they
comfortable and very clean, for which an additional charge For younger children, it is a hilfe Körper behinderter e.V. Germany’s upscale hotels. guarantee a memorable stay.
at affordable prices. will be made. The hostels are great thrill to observe the daily
usually closed during the day, work on a farm. There may also DIRECTORY
so you must ensure that all be the possibility of horse-
Inexpensive arrangements connected riding, or of hiring bicycles, Information on Youth Hostels Mountain Disabled
Accommodation with your stay are in place a boat or fishing tackle. Accommodation Accommodation Travellers
Germany has a well-established before 9am or after 4–4:30pm. Agrotourist holidays can be & Reservations Deutsches Jugend­ Bundesarbeits­
and widely developed chain of In large cities during the high booked through Landreise herbergswerk DJH DAV Summit Club gemeinschaft
youth hostels (Jugendherberge), season, when demand for beds and AG Urlaub & Freizeit auf Castle and Palace Service GmbH Am Perlacher Forst 186, Selbsthilfe
and these provide the most is particularly heavy, your stay dem Lande. For more Hotels Im Gildepark, 81545 Munich. Kirchfeldstr. 149,
affordable option for an may be limited to 2–3 nights. information on eco-friendly ∑ castleandpalace Leonardo-da-Vinci-Weg 1, Tel (089) 64 24 00. 40215 Düsseldorf.
overnight stay. A youth stays, see p545. hotels.com 32760 Detmold. ∑ dav-summit-club.de Tel (0211) 31 00 60.
hostel can be found Hotel Reservation Tel (05231) 7401 0. Verband Deutscher ∑ bag-selbsthilfe.de
in every large town, Service (HRS) ∑ jugendherberge.de Gebirgs­ und
as well as in small Mountain Blaubach 32, 50676 Wandervereine Bundesverband
Accommodation
holiday centres. The Agrotourism Kleine Rosenstr. 1–3, Selbsthilfe Körper­
most attractive are Mountainous regions of Cologne. AG Urlaub & Freizeit 34117 Kassel. behinderter (BSK)
those that are located Germany are generally well Tel (0221) 207 76 00. Tel (0561) 93 87 30. Altkrautheimerstr. 20,
in old castles, beautiful prepared to accommodate ∑ hrs.com auf dem Lande ∑ wanderverband.de 74238 Krautheim.
Lindhooper Str. 63, 27283
villas or other historic walkers and can offer truly Romantik Hotels & Tel (06 294) 428 10.
buildings. Most hostels idyllic retreats. Shelters, hostels Restaurants Verden. Tel (04231) 966 50. Camping and ∑ bsk-ev.org
are of a high standard. and mountain hotels can be ∑ romantikhotels.com ∑ bauern Caravanning Club Behinderter
Accommodation may found not only along Alpine hofferien.de und ihrer Freunde
be provided in double trails, but also in the Thuringian Trivago GmbH Landreise Deutscher (CBF)
and triple rooms, as Forest, the Black Forest and Bennigsen-Pl. 1, Hülsebrookstr. 2–8, Camping­Club Pallaswiesenstr. 123a,
well as in dormitories. the Harz Mountains. Details 40474 Düsseldorf. 48165 Münster. Mandlstr. 28, 80802 64293 Darmstadt.
In order to be about such accommodation Tel (0211) 54 06 50. Tel (02501) 801 1195. Munich. Tel (089) 380 14 Tel (06151) 812 20.
eligible to use youth can be obtained from local ∑ trivago.de ∑ landreise.de 20. ∑ camping-club.de ∑ cbf-da.de
hostels, you must be Guesthouse near Neuschwanstein tourist information offices.



490-491_EW_Germany.indd 490 09/10/17 2:34 pm 490-491_EW_Germany.indd 491 09/10/17 2:34 pm
Eyewitness Travel LAYERS PRINTED:
Practical template “UK” LAYER
(Source v1.7)
Date 5th March 2013
Size 125mm x 217mm

WHERE T O ST A Y  491

Camping and Travelling
Caravanning with Children
Travelling with a camping trailer, In most hotels, cots
camper van or just a tent is very and high chairs can be
popular in Germany, which has obtained, and often
a highly developed network of young children can stay
more than 2,000 camping sites. for free. In better hotels,
Of a generally high standard, a few hours of baby-
sites have washrooms and sitting can usually be
kitchens. There is usually a booked. For older
shop and café, and some children, expect to pay
even have swimming pools. for an extra bed.
Disabled Travellers Recommended
Hotels
Virtually all hotels of a higher
standard are equipped to The hotels recomm-
accommodate disabled guests. ended in the following
At least one entrance will have listings have been
ramp access, and a few rooms chosen because they
will have bathrooms adapted to represent the best that A mountain shelter in Oybin, Saxony
the needs of those who are German accomm-
confined to a wheelchair. In odation has to offer in hospit- Pensionen offer a personable
lower-category hotels, though, ality, location and value. experience, with breakfast,
specially adapted fixtures and Budget hotels offer good while Gasthöfe are traditional
fittings tend to be rarer. In such value accommodation, ideal for inns with a restaurant. Historic
hotels, you may have to shorter stays, while mid-range options may be an old hotel
negotiate steep stairs to reach hotels include some facilities. or a hotel in an old building.
rooms on the upper floors. So-called business hotels offer Entries high lighted as
In order to receive additional Wi-Fi connectivity and the use DK Choice are those that
help and advice during their of meeting rooms. stand out. They may have
trip, disabled travellers can Boutique hotels tend to be an enviable location, offer an
contact the Bundes arbeits- small and usually feature high incredible service or be
gemeinschaft Selbsthilfe e.V., design elements, while luxury particularly charm ing.
or the Bundesverband Selbst- hotels encompass the finest of Whatever the reason, they
hilfe Körper behinderter e.V. Germany’s upscale hotels. guarantee a memorable stay.
DIRECTORY
Information on Youth Hostels Mountain Disabled
Accommodation Accommodation Travellers
& Reservations Deutsches Jugend­
herbergswerk DJH DAV Summit Club Bundesarbeits­
Castle and Palace Service GmbH Am Perlacher Forst 186, gemeinschaft
Hotels Im Gildepark, 81545 Munich. Selbsthilfe
∑ castleandpalace Leonardo-da-Vinci-Weg 1, Tel (089) 64 24 00. Kirchfeldstr. 149,
hotels.com 32760 Detmold. ∑ dav-summit-club.de 40215 Düsseldorf.
Tel (0211) 31 00 60.
Hotel Reservation Tel (05231) 7401 0. Verband Deutscher ∑ bag-selbsthilfe.de
Service (HRS) ∑ jugendherberge.de Gebirgs­ und Bundesverband
Blaubach 32, 50676 Agrotourism Wandervereine Selbsthilfe Körper­
Cologne. Kleine Rosenstr. 1–3, behinderter (BSK)
Tel (0221) 207 76 00. AG Urlaub & Freizeit 34117 Kassel. Altkrautheimerstr. 20,
∑ hrs.com auf dem Lande Tel (0561) 93 87 30. 74238 Krautheim.
Lindhooper Str. 63, 27283 ∑ wanderverband.de Tel (06 294) 428 10.
Romantik Hotels & Verden. Tel (04231) 966 50.
Restaurants ∑ bauern Camping and ∑ bsk-ev.org
∑ romantikhotels.com hofferien.de Caravanning Club Behinderter
und ihrer Freunde
Trivago GmbH Landreise Deutscher (CBF)
Bennigsen-Pl. 1, Hülsebrookstr. 2–8, Camping­Club Pallaswiesenstr. 123a,
40474 Düsseldorf. 48165 Münster. Mandlstr. 28, 80802 64293 Darmstadt.
Tel (0211) 54 06 50. Tel (02501) 801 1195. Munich. Tel (089) 380 14 Tel (06151) 812 20.
∑ trivago.de ∑ landreise.de 20. ∑ camping-club.de ∑ cbf-da.de





490-491_EW_Germany.indd 491 09/10/17 2:34 pm

492  TR A VELLERS ’ NEEDS WHERE T O ST A Y  493

Where to Stay Tel (03542) 8730 DESSAU: An den 7 Säulen €€
Pensionen
∑ schloss-luebbenau.de
Road Map E3
Former palace with elegant fin-de- Ebertallee 66, 06846
Cosmo €€€ Price Guide siècle rooms and a spa with pretty Tel (0340) 61 96 20
Berlin Boutique Prices are based on one night's stay in mosaics and vaulted ceilings. ∑hotel-7-saeulen.de
Eastern Centre Spittelmarkt 13, 10117 Map 5 D3 high season for a standard double room, POTSDAM: Froschkasten € Friendly family-run place in the
inclusive of service charges and taxes.
Tel 585 822 22
Bauhaus district. Bright, modern
City Hostel Berlin € ∑ designhotels.com € up to €75 Pension Road Map E3 rooms and sauna facilities.
Budget Map 4 B3 A haven of tranquility amid €€ €75 to €125 Kiezstraße 4, 14467
Glinkastraße 5, 10117 the bustle of the Mitte. €€€ over €125 Tel (0331) 291315 EISLEBEN: Graf von Mansfeld €€
Tel 238 866 850 Elegant rooms have high ∑ froschkasten.de Historic Road Map D4
∑ cityhostel-berlin.com end furnishings. Savoy €€ Simple pine-furnished rooms Markt 56, 06295
Simple, modern rooms with en Luxury Map 2 A4 above one of Potsdam’s oldest Tel (03475) 66300
suite bathrooms. A great terrace Hotel de Rome €€€ Fasanenstraße 9–10, 10623 and most authentic inns. ∑ hotel-eisleben.de
bar for evening drinks. Free Luxury Map 4 C2 Tel 31 10 30 Venerable hotel in the bustling
breakfast and Wi-Fi. Behrenstraße 37, 10117 ∑ hotel-savoy.com POTSDAM: Hotel am main square. Good rooms,
Tel 460 60 90 Historic hotel famous for its Luisenplatz €€€ some with four-poster beds.
Three Little Pigs Hostel Berlin € ∑ hotelderome.com refined decor and attentive Gasthof Road Map E3 Excellent restaurant.
Budget Map 4 B4 Classy furnishings and alfresco service. Excellent restaurant and Luisenplatz 5, 14471
Stresemannstraße 66, 10963 dining on a rooftop terrace at well-stocked bar. Tel (0331) 971900 HALLE: Apart-Hotel Halle €€€
Tel 263 958 80 this lavish hotel. The decadent Hotel Schloß Lübbenau is set ∑ hotel-luisenplatz.de Boutique Road Map D4
∑ three-little-pigs.de Das Stue €€€ in Schloß Park Early 18th-century town house Kohlschütterstraße 5–6, 06114
Set in an old convent building in Luxury Map 3 D3 with antique furnishings. Rates Tel (0345) 52590
a vibrant, multicultural area with Western Centre Drakestraße 1, 10787 ∑ villakastania.com include a superb breakfast. ∑ apart-halle.de
great night-life. Free parking. Motel One Berlin Bellevue € Tel 311 72 20 Rooms are decorated with great Art Nouveau place with themed
Budget Map 3 E1 ∑ das-stue.com attention to detail. Spa facilities POTSDAM: Hotel Villa rooms based on German cultural
Maritim proArte Hotel €€ Paulstraße 21, 10557 Stylish, sophisticated Nordic available. Impeccable service. Monte Vino €€€ figures. Sauna and whirlpool tubs.
Mid-Range Hotel Map 1 F4 Tel 390 63 34-0 design in a former embassy Historic Road Map E3
Friedrichstraße 151, 10117 ∑ motel-one.com building in the peaceful Tiergarten. Ackselhaus €€€ Gregor-Mendel-Straße 27, 14469 MAGDEBURG: Arthotel
Tel 30 20 335 A modern budget hotel in a Boutique Road Map E3 Tel (0331) 2013339 Magdeburg €€
∑ maritim.de friendly residential neighbour- Further Afield Belforter Straße 21, 10405 ∑ hotelvillamontevino.de Boutique Road Map D3
Large, contemporary hotel with hood, just a 10-minute walk to Tel 443 376 33 Located on a former vineyard, this Breiter Weg 9, 39104
clean and generous-sized rooms. Bellevue S-Bahn and the ∑ ackselhaus.de is perfect for a peaceful getaway. Tel (0391) 620780
Good location, within walking Tiergarten. Underground parking DK Choice A restored 19th-century property ∑ arthotel-magdeburg.de
distance of the Brandenburg is available. with a lovely garden and DK Choice Designed by the Austrian artist
Gate and Museum Island. Circus € individually designed rooms. Hundertwasser, the exterior is
Grimm's am Potsdamer Platz €€ Budget Road Map E3 RHEINSBERG: Pension fantastical while the rooms are
Holländermühle
DK Choice Mid-Range Hotel Map 4 A4 Rosenthaler Straße 1, 10119 Historic Road Map E2 € furnished with colourful decor.
Flottweilstraße 45, 10785
Tel 200 039 39
Adlon Kempinski €€€ Tel 258 00 80 ∑ circus-berlin.de Brandenburg Holländer Mühle 01, 16831 MAGDEBURG: Ratswaage Hotel
Luxury Map 1 F4 ∑ grimms-hotel.de This fun hotel, located close to Tel (033931) 2332 Magdeburg €€
Unter den Linden 77, 10117 Modern wedge-shaped hotel by the city’s night-life, has high BRANDENBURG/HAVEL: ∑ hollaender-muehle.de Mid-Range Hotel Road Map D3
Tel 226 115 55 the Landwehr canal. The rooms standards of service and great Sorat Hotel Brandenburg €€ This family-run pension has a Ratswaageplatz 1, 39104
∑ kempinski.com here feature playful decor with value. Numerous extras on offer, Mid-Range Hotel Road Map E3 novel setting in a windmill built Tel (0391) 59260
The Adlon has won numerous fairy tale themes. from bike rentals to rickshaw Altstädtische Markt 1, 14770 in 1894. The bright and simple ∑ ratswaage.de
plaudits, both for its impeccable tours and baby-sitting. Enjoy Tel (03381) 5970 rooms are all individually Centrally located hotel with a
standards of service and for Q Hotel €€ the elaborate breakfast spread, ∑ sorat-hotels.com decorated. There is also a good sauna and fabulous breakfast
being the final word in opulence. Boutique Map 2 A4 or a coffee at the Circus Café. Good for leisure and business restaurant serving regional food. buffet. Good weekend discounts.
The hotel has exquisite Knesebeckstraße 67, 10623 travellers alike as facilities include
bedrooms, and facilities such Tel 810 06 60 free Wi-Fi and a fitness centre. NAUMBURG: Hotel Stadt
as Michelin-starred gourmet ∑ hotel-q.com Andel’s €€ RHEINSBERG: Der Seehof €€ Aachen €€
dining and an enormous spa – Surprisingly affordable designer Business Road Map E3 CHORIN: Waldsee Hotel € Gasthof Road Map E2 Historic Road Map D4
ideal for a luxurious break. hotel aimed mainly at corporate Landsberger Allee 106, 10369 Gasthof Road Map E2 Seestraße 18, 16831 Markt 11, 06618
travellers. Futuristic decor. Tel 453 05 30 Neue Klosterallee 12, 16230 Tel (033931) 4030 Tel (03445) 261060
∑ vi-hotels.com Tel (03336) 653111 ∑ seehof-rheinsberg.de ∑ hotel-stadt-aachen.de
Award-winning hotel with great ∑ waldseehotel-frenz.de Mid-18th-century farmhouse. Vine-covered lodgings on the
city views and regular tram and Family-run hotel in beautiful The bright and cheerful rooms market square with dark-wood
train links. Smart and spacious woods by an old monastery. have balconies and lake views. antiques and floral touches.
rooms. Extensive breakfast buffet. Simple rooms with floral decor.
QUEDLINBURG: Hotel Garni
Riehmers Hofgarten €€ FRANKFURT AN DER ODER: am Dippeplatz €
Historic Road Map E3 Palais am Kleistpark € Saxony-Anhalt Historic Road Map D4
Yorckstraße 83, 10965 Boutique Road Map F3 Breite Straße 16, 06484
Tel 780 988 00 Fürstenwalder Staße 47, 15234 DESSAU: Prellerhaus € Tel (03946) 77140
∑ riehmers-hofgarten.de Tel (0335) 56150 Boutique Road Map E3 ∑ hotel-propstei-vorwerk.de
A grand mansion with elegant ∑ palaisamkleistpark.de Gropiusallee 38, 06846 Located in a 1680 half-timbered
decor set in a 19th-century Calm lodgings with Art Nouveau Tel (0340) 6508250 building, this welcoming hotel
courtyard. All modern amenities. rooms oozing timeless elegance. ∑ bauhaus-dessau.de features tasteful rooms.
Stay in the minimalist former
Villa Kastania €€ LÜBBENAU: Hotel Bauhaus student rooms within QUEDLINBURG: Theophano €€€
Boutique Road Map E3 Schloß Lübbenau €€€ an iconic school building. Historic Road Map D4
Kastanienallee 20, 14052 Historic Road Map E3 Communal bathrooms, and Markt 13–14, 06484
Luxurious suite at the acclaimed Adlon Kempinski Tel 300 00 20 Schloßbezirk 6, 03222 a gorgeous dining room. Tel (03946) 96300
For more information on types of hotels see page 491
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WHERE T O ST A Y  493

Tel (03542) 8730 DESSAU: An den 7 Säulen €€
∑ schloss-luebbenau.de Pensionen Road Map E3
Former palace with elegant fin-de- Ebertallee 66, 06846
siècle rooms and a spa with pretty Tel (0340) 61 96 20
mosaics and vaulted ceilings. ∑hotel-7-saeulen.de
Friendly family-run place in the
POTSDAM: Froschkasten € Bauhaus district. Bright, modern
Pension Road Map E3 rooms and sauna facilities.
Kiezstraße 4, 14467
Tel (0331) 291315 EISLEBEN: Graf von Mansfeld €€
∑ froschkasten.de Historic Road Map D4
Simple pine-furnished rooms Markt 56, 06295
above one of Potsdam’s oldest Tel (03475) 66300
and most authentic inns. ∑ hotel-eisleben.de
Venerable hotel in the bustling
POTSDAM: Hotel am main square. Good rooms,
Luisenplatz €€€ some with four-poster beds.
Gasthof Road Map E3 Excellent restaurant.
Luisenplatz 5, 14471
Tel (0331) 971900 HALLE: Apart-Hotel Halle €€€
The decadent Hotel Schloß Lübbenau is set ∑ hotel-luisenplatz.de Boutique Road Map D4
in Schloß Park Early 18th-century town house Kohlschütterstraße 5–6, 06114
with antique furnishings. Rates Tel (0345) 52590
∑ villakastania.com include a superb breakfast. ∑ apart-halle.de
Rooms are decorated with great Art Nouveau place with themed
attention to detail. Spa facilities POTSDAM: Hotel Villa rooms based on German cultural
available. Impeccable service. Monte Vino €€€ figures. Sauna and whirlpool tubs.
Historic Road Map E3
Ackselhaus €€€ Gregor-Mendel-Straße 27, 14469 MAGDEBURG: Arthotel
Boutique Road Map E3 Tel (0331) 2013339 Magdeburg €€
Belforter Straße 21, 10405 ∑ hotelvillamontevino.de Boutique Road Map D3
Tel 443 376 33 Located on a former vineyard, this Breiter Weg 9, 39104
∑ ackselhaus.de is perfect for a peaceful getaway. Tel (0391) 620780
A restored 19th-century property ∑ arthotel-magdeburg.de
with a lovely garden and DK Choice Designed by the Austrian artist
individually designed rooms. Hundertwasser, the exterior is
RHEINSBERG: Pension fantastical while the rooms are
Holländermühle € furnished with colourful decor.
Historic Road Map E2
Brandenburg Holländer Mühle 01, 16831 MAGDEBURG: Ratswaage Hotel
Tel (033931) 2332 Magdeburg €€
BRANDENBURG/HAVEL: ∑ hollaender-muehle.de Mid-Range Hotel Road Map D3
Sorat Hotel Brandenburg €€ This family-run pension has a Ratswaageplatz 1, 39104
Mid-Range Hotel Road Map E3 novel setting in a windmill built Tel (0391) 59260
Altstädtische Markt 1, 14770 in 1894. The bright and simple ∑ ratswaage.de
Tel (03381) 5970 rooms are all individually Centrally located hotel with a
∑ sorat-hotels.com decorated. There is also a good sauna and fabulous breakfast
Good for leisure and business restaurant serving regional food. buffet. Good weekend discounts.
travellers alike as facilities include
free Wi-Fi and a fitness centre. NAUMBURG: Hotel Stadt
RHEINSBERG: Der Seehof €€ Aachen €€
CHORIN: Waldsee Hotel € Gasthof Road Map E2 Historic Road Map D4
Gasthof Road Map E2 Seestraße 18, 16831 Markt 11, 06618
Neue Klosterallee 12, 16230 Tel (033931) 4030 Tel (03445) 261060
Tel (03336) 653111 ∑ seehof-rheinsberg.de ∑ hotel-stadt-aachen.de
∑ waldseehotel-frenz.de Mid-18th-century farmhouse. Vine-covered lodgings on the
Family-run hotel in beautiful The bright and cheerful rooms market square with dark-wood
woods by an old monastery. have balconies and lake views. antiques and floral touches.
Simple rooms with floral decor.
QUEDLINBURG: Hotel Garni
FRANKFURT AN DER ODER: am Dippeplatz €
Palais am Kleistpark € Saxony-Anhalt Historic Road Map D4
Boutique Road Map F3 Breite Straße 16, 06484
Fürstenwalder Staße 47, 15234 DESSAU: Prellerhaus € Tel (03946) 77140
Tel (0335) 56150 Boutique Road Map E3 ∑ hotel-propstei-vorwerk.de
∑ palaisamkleistpark.de Gropiusallee 38, 06846 Located in a 1680 half-timbered
Calm lodgings with Art Nouveau Tel (0340) 6508250 building, this welcoming hotel
rooms oozing timeless elegance. ∑ bauhaus-dessau.de features tasteful rooms.
Stay in the minimalist former
LÜBBENAU: Hotel Bauhaus student rooms within QUEDLINBURG: Theophano €€€
Schloß Lübbenau €€€ an iconic school building. Historic Road Map D4
Historic Road Map E3 Communal bathrooms, and Markt 13–14, 06484
Schloßbezirk 6, 03222 a gorgeous dining room. Tel (03946) 96300
For more information on types of hotels see page 491
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494  TR A VELLERS ’ NEEDS WHERE T O ST A Y  495

∑ hoteltheophano.de ERFURT: Zumnorde am WEIMAR: Best Western Ibis München City West €€
Traditional, half-timbered rustic Anger €€€ Premier Grand Hotel Budget Road Map D7
hotel in an unbeatable central Historic Road Map D4 Russischer Hof €€€ Westendstraße 181, 80686
location. Many rooms have Anger 50–51, 99084 Historic Road Map D4 Tel (089) 5794970
canopied beds. Tel (0361) 568 00 Goetheplatz 2, 99423 ∑ ibis.com
∑hotel-zumnorde.de Tel (03643) 7740 International chain hotel for
TANGERMÜNDE: Historic building offering refined ∑ russischerhof-weimar.de those who want simple and
Schloß Tangermünde €€€ rooms with period furniture. The over 200-year-old Russischer functional lodgings at low prices.
Historic Road Map D3 Good beer garden. Hof is a luxurious, elegant
Amt 1, 39590 hotel with modern amenities. DK Choice
Tel (0393) 22 7373 GOTHA: Augustinerkloster €
∑ schloss-tangermuende.de Historic Road Map D4 WEIMAR: Romantik Hotel Motel One München
Prestigious hotel with attentive Jüdenstraße 27, 99867 Dorotheenhof Weimar €€€ Sendlinger Tor €€
service, dark-beamed rooms, The imposing façade of the Steigenberger Grandhotel Handelshof, Leipzig Tel (03621) 302910 Luxury Road Map D4 Budget Map 1 F5
sauna and fantastic restaurant. ∑ augustinerkloster-gotha.de Dorotheenhof 1, 99427 Herzog-Wilhelm-Straße 28,
A 19th-century castle with stylish MORITZBURG: This former monastery has a Tel (03643) 4590 80331
LUTHERSTADT WITTENBERG: furnishings, elegant grounds and Landhaus Moritzburg €€ historic façade, but features ∑ dorotheenhof.com Tel (089) 51777250
Pension am Schwanenteich €€ a superb restaurant. Gasthof Road Map E4 contemporary interiors. Reasonably priced luxury in ∑ motel-one.com
Pensionen Road Map E3 Schloßallee 37, 01468 superb surroundings. Choose This reliable budget chain has
Töpferstraße 1, 06886 DRESDEN: Taschenbergpalais Tel (035207) 89690 JENA: Steigenberger from a range of spacious rooms. really gone from strength to
Tel (03491) 402807 Kempinski €€ ∑ landhaus-moritzburg.de Esplanade Jena €€ strength, and for good reason.
∑ wittenberg-schwanenteich.de Luxury Road Map E4 An excellent choice for a country Modern Road Map D4 Motel One offers excellent
Small, central pension with bright Taschenberg 3, 01067 escape close to Moritzburg. Cosy Carl-Zeiss-Platz 4, 07743 value rooms with bright
and airy en suite rooms and great Tel (0351) 49120 rooms and a restaurant with a Tel (03641) 800 Munich turquoise features that lend a
half-board deals. ∑ kempinski.com lovely terrace. ∑ steigenberger.com certain minimalist elegance.
Renowned hotel, right next to Situated next to Jena University, Holiday Inn Munich There is also a great café-bar
the Royal Palace. Most rooms ZITTAU: Schwarzer Bär € this hotel boasts imaginative City Centre €€ and lounge on site.
have views of the river or Altmarkt. Pensionen Road Map F4 design and big, bright rooms. Budget Map 3 F5
Saxony Ottokarplatz 12, 02763 Hochstraße 3, 81669
DRESDEN: Tel (03583) 5510 OBERHOF: Hotel Haus Saarland € Tel (089) 48034444 Carat Hotel €€€
BAUTZEN: Schloß Schaenke €€ Innside by Melia €€€ ∑ hotel-schwarzer-baer.de Gasthof Road Map D4 ∑ holidayinn.com Budget Map 1 F5
Pensionen Road Map F4 Business Road Map E4 Simple hotel, just outside of Zellaer Straße 13, 98559 A popular and central choice, Lindwurmstraße 13, 80337
Burgplatz 5, 02625 Salzgasse 4, 01067 the city centre, offering large, Tel (036842) 52117 respected for its well-equipped Tel (089) 230380
Tel (03591) 304990 Tel (0351) 795150 good value rooms perfect for ∑ haus-saarland.de rooms and excellent restaurant. ∑ carathotels.de
∑ schloss-schaenke.net ∑ innside.com families. Traditional if slightly Lovely family-owned and run Centrally located hotel with
Family-run hotel opposite Schloß Central hotel with avant-garde dated decor. inn. Simple but comfortable Hotel Laimer Hof €€ simple, bright rooms and a large
Ortenburg, with simple, elegant decor in rooms and a rooftop bar. rooms. Great buffet breakfast. Historic Road Map D7 breakfast buffet.
rooms; fantastic breakfast buffet. Laimer Straße 40, 80639
FREIBERG: Alekto €€ DK Choice Tel (089) 1780380 Charles Hotel €€€
BAUTZEN: Villa Antonia €€ Historic Road Map E4 Thuringia ∑ laimerhof.de Luxury Map 1 F3
Historic Road Map F4 Am Bahnhof 3, 09599 WEIMAR: Villa Hentzel €€ Neo-Renaissance villa with Sophienstraße 28, 80333
Lessingstraße 1, 02625 Tel (03731) 79 40 ALTENBURG: Engel €€ Boutique Road Map D4 classically furnished rooms. Tel (089) 5445550
Tel (03591) 501020 ∑ alekto.de Pensionen Road Map E4 Bauhausstraße 12, 99423 Free bikes to explore surroundings. ∑ roccofortehotels.de
∑ hotel-villa-antonia.de An elegant Art Nouveau building. Johannisstraße 27, 04600 Tel (03643) 86580 This fantastic hotel has huge
Late-1890s villa in a quiet part of Some rooms are a little old- Tel (03447) 56510 ∑ hotel-villa-hentzel.de Hotel Seibel €€ rooms with good views over the
town. Elegantly renovated, with fashioned, but all offer great value. ∑ hotel-engel-altenburg.de This elegant 19th-century hotel Historic Road Map D7 nearby botanical gardens.
big, comfortable rooms. Family-run pension in the heart has welcomed numerous writers Theresienhöhe 9, 80339
GÖRLITZ: Romantik Hotel of old Altenburg with individually and also guests of note. The Tel (089) 5401420 Cortiina €€€
CHEMNITZ: Schloßhotel Tuchmacher €€ decorated rooms and a charming beautifully renovated rooms are ∑ seibel-hotels-munich.de Boutique Map 2 C4
Klaffenbach €€ Historic Road Map F4 cellar bar. individually furnished and have Good-value rooms in a 19th- Ledererstraße 8, 80331
Historic Road Map E4 Peterstraße 8, 02826 historic features. The hotel offers century Art Deco building, Tel (089) 2422490
Wasserschloßweg 6, 09123 Tel (03581) 4731 EISENACH: Steigenberger wonderful value for money. conveniently located near the ∑ cortiina.com
Tel (0371) 26110 ∑ tuchmacher.de Hotel Thuringer Hof €€ Oktoberfest area. Elegant hotel whose individually
∑ schlosshotel-chemnitz.de Dating from the 16th century, Mid-Range Hotel Road Map C4 decorated rooms and cocktail bar
Spectacular moated castle in the this hotel has individually Karlsplatz 11, 99817 ooze boutique opulence.
centre of Chemnitz. Large, simply decorated rooms. Tel (03691) 280
furnished rooms. Great value. ∑ steigenberger.com Hotel Bavaria Road Map D7
€€€
Excellent value hotel with an
Boutique
CHEMNITZ: Hotel an der DK Choice extravagant lobby. Comfortable, Gollierstraße 9, 80339
Oper €€€ LEIPZIG: Steigenberger low-key rooms, a fine restaurant Tel (089) 5080790
Business Road Map E4 Grandhotel Handelshof €€€ and spa facilities. ∑ hotel-bavaria.com
Straße der Nationen 56, 09111 Luxury Road Map E4 Long-standing family-run hotel.
Tel (0371) 6810 Salzgässchen 6, 04109 ERFURT: Pullman Erfurt Bright rooms with charming
∑ hoteloper-chemnitz.de Tel (0341) 3505810 am Dom €€€ touches. Good breakfast buffet.
Elegant hotel close to the opera ∑ steigenberger.com Luxury Road Map D4
house. The rooms are modern, A modern, elegant hotel on Theaterplatz 2, 99084 Louis Hotel €€€
with impressive bathrooms. historic Naschmarkt. The huge Tel (0361) 64450 Modern Map 2 B5
rooms are in an avant-garde ∑ pullmanhotels.com Viktualienmarkt 6, 80331
DRESDEN: Schloß Eckberg €€ style and there are two superb Centrally located accomm o- Tel (089) 41119080
Historic Road Map E4 restaurants plus a brasserie. dation with spacious rooms ∑ louis-hotel.com
Bautzner Straße 134, 01099 Unusually for Germany's five- and extravagant bathrooms. Lovely, airy rooms with natural
Tel (0351) 80990 star hotels, Wi-Fi here is free. Opulence at a relatively stone tiles and wooden floors,
∑ schloss-eckberg.de affordable price. The spacious lounge at Motel One München Sendlinger Tor, Munich complemented by Italian fabrics.
Key to Price Guide see page 492 For more information on types of hotels see page 491
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WHERE T O ST A Y  495

ERFURT: Zumnorde am WEIMAR: Best Western Ibis München City West €€
Anger €€€ Premier Grand Hotel Budget Road Map D7
Historic Road Map D4 Russischer Hof €€€ Westendstraße 181, 80686
Anger 50–51, 99084 Historic Road Map D4 Tel (089) 5794970
Tel (0361) 568 00 Goetheplatz 2, 99423 ∑ ibis.com
∑hotel-zumnorde.de Tel (03643) 7740 International chain hotel for
Historic building offering refined ∑ russischerhof-weimar.de those who want simple and
rooms with period furniture. The over 200-year-old Russischer functional lodgings at low prices.
Good beer garden. Hof is a luxurious, elegant
hotel with modern amenities.
GOTHA: Augustinerkloster € DK Choice
Historic Road Map D4 WEIMAR: Romantik Hotel Motel One München
Jüdenstraße 27, 99867 Dorotheenhof Weimar €€€ Sendlinger Tor €€
Tel (03621) 302910 Luxury Road Map D4 Budget Map 1 F5
∑ augustinerkloster-gotha.de Dorotheenhof 1, 99427 Herzog-Wilhelm-Straße 28,
This former monastery has a Tel (03643) 4590 80331
historic façade, but features ∑ dorotheenhof.com Tel (089) 51777250
contemporary interiors. Reasonably priced luxury in ∑ motel-one.com
superb surroundings. Choose This reliable budget chain has
JENA: Steigenberger from a range of spacious rooms. really gone from strength to
Esplanade Jena €€ strength, and for good reason.
Modern Road Map D4 Motel One offers excellent
Carl-Zeiss-Platz 4, 07743 value rooms with bright
Tel (03641) 800 Munich turquoise features that lend a
∑ steigenberger.com certain minimalist elegance.
Situated next to Jena University, Holiday Inn Munich There is also a great café-bar
this hotel boasts imaginative City Centre €€ and lounge on site.
design and big, bright rooms. Budget Map 3 F5
Hochstraße 3, 81669
OBERHOF: Hotel Haus Saarland € Tel (089) 48034444 Carat Hotel €€€
Gasthof Road Map D4 ∑ holidayinn.com Budget Map 1 F5
Zellaer Straße 13, 98559 A popular and central choice, Lindwurmstraße 13, 80337
Tel (036842) 52117 respected for its well-equipped Tel (089) 230380
∑ haus-saarland.de rooms and excellent restaurant. ∑ carathotels.de
Lovely family-owned and run Centrally located hotel with
inn. Simple but comfortable Hotel Laimer Hof €€ simple, bright rooms and a large
rooms. Great buffet breakfast. Historic Road Map D7 breakfast buffet.
Laimer Straße 40, 80639
€€€
DK Choice Tel (089) 1780380 Charles Hotel Map 1 F3
∑ laimerhof.de
Luxury
WEIMAR: Villa Hentzel €€ Neo-Renaissance villa with Sophienstraße 28, 80333
Boutique Road Map D4 classically furnished rooms. Tel (089) 5445550
Bauhausstraße 12, 99423 Free bikes to explore surroundings. ∑ roccofortehotels.de
Tel (03643) 86580 This fantastic hotel has huge
∑ hotel-villa-hentzel.de Hotel Seibel €€ rooms with good views over the
This elegant 19th-century hotel Historic Road Map D7 nearby botanical gardens.
has welcomed numerous writers Theresienhöhe 9, 80339
and also guests of note. The Tel (089) 5401420 Cortiina €€€
beautifully renovated rooms are ∑ seibel-hotels-munich.de Boutique Map 2 C4
individually furnished and have Good-value rooms in a 19th- Ledererstraße 8, 80331
historic features. The hotel offers century Art Deco building, Tel (089) 2422490
wonderful value for money. conveniently located near the ∑ cortiina.com
Oktoberfest area. Elegant hotel whose individually
decorated rooms and cocktail bar
ooze boutique opulence.
Hotel Bavaria €€€
Boutique Road Map D7
Gollierstraße 9, 80339
Tel (089) 5080790
∑ hotel-bavaria.com
Long-standing family-run hotel.
Bright rooms with charming
touches. Good breakfast buffet.
Louis Hotel €€€
Modern Map 2 B5
Viktualienmarkt 6, 80331
Tel (089) 41119080
∑ louis-hotel.com
Lovely, airy rooms with natural
stone tiles and wooden floors,
The spacious lounge at Motel One München Sendlinger Tor, Munich complemented by Italian fabrics.
For more information on types of hotels see page 491
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496  TR A VELLERS ’ NEEDS WHERE T O ST A Y  497

BAMBERG: LINDAU: Reutemann €€€ NUREMBERG: Le Méridien REGENSBURG: Goldenes
Hotel Nepomuk €€€ DK Choice Mid-Range Hotel Road Map C7 Grand €€€ Kreuz €€€
Historic Road Map D5 GARMISCH-PARTENKIRCHEN: Ludwigstraße 23, 88131 Boutique Map D6 Boutique Road Map D6
Obere Mülbrücke 9, 96049 Gasthof Fraundorfer €€ Tel (08382) 9150 Bahnhofstraße 1–3, 90402 Haidplatz 7, 93047
Tel (0951) 98420 Gasthof Road Map D7 ∑ reutemann-lindau.de Tel (0911) 23220 Tel (0941) 55812
∑ hotel-nepomuk.de Ludwigstraße 24, 82467 Stylish hotel with an ∑ lemeridiennuernberg.com ∑ hotel-goldeneskreuz.de
Old timber­framed hotel with an Tel (08821) 9270 extraordinary harbourside Elegant hotel with sleek Art Deco Lovely collection of small suites
exceptional location next to the ∑ gasthof-fraundorfer.de location, airy rooms, a spa and Art Nouveau furnishings. in a centrally located historic
river. Rooms have modern facilities. As much a celebration of and an excellent restaurant. Excellent regional brasserie. building. Wonderful café.
Bavarian culture as a guesthouse,
BAYREUTH: H4 Hotel Gasthof Fraundorfer has NUREMBERG: Dürer Hotel €€€ DK Choice REGENSBURG: Goliath €€€
Residenzschloß Bayreuth €€ beautiful murals, individually Modern Road Map D6 Boutique Road Map D6
Business Road Map D5 decorated rooms with regional Neutormauer 32, 90403 OBERAMMERGAU: Hotel Goliathstraße 10, 93047
Erlanger Straße 37, 95444 themes and nightly dancing Tel (0911) 2146650 Maximilian €€€ Tel (0941) 2000900
Tel (0921) 75850 and yodeling performances in ∑ duerer-hotel.de Gasthof Road Map D7 ∑ hotel-goliath.de
∑ h-hotels.com the restaurant and bar. Located next to the Albrecht- Ettaler Straße 5, 82487 Goliath promises bold colours
Standard chain hotel with Dürer-Haus, the Dürer Hotel Tel (08822) 948740 and modern design along
comfortable modern rooms, a features spacious rooms ∑ maximilian-oberammergau.de with great views from the
sauna and a good restaurant. GARMISCH-PARTENKIRCHEN: decorated in rich colours. For This alpine hotel features a rooftop terrace.
Hotel Edelweiss €€€ relaxation, guests have access striking array of boutique rooms,
BERCHTESGADEN: Pensionen Road Map D7 to a sauna, a steam room and along with a luxurious spa. There ROTHENBURG: Burg-Hotel €€€
Laroshäusel € Martinswinkelstraße 15–17, 82467 a Mediterranean garden. is also a fantastic Mediterranean Historic Road Map C6
Spa facilities at the Kempinski Hotel Pensionen Road Map E7 Tel (08821) 2454 restaurant and a beer garden to Klostergasse 1–3, 91541
Berchtesgaden Bavarian Alps, Berchtesgaden Am Larosbach 11, 81417 ∑ hoteledelweiss.de NUREMBERG: Elch €€ sample the hotel’s own brews. Tel (09861) 94890
Tel (08652) 3736 Romantic family­run guesthouse Historic Road Map D6 ∑ burghotel.eu
Platzl €€€ ∑ berchtesgaden-ferien.de with spotless and spacious Irrerstraße 11, 90403 Hotel combining a 12th-century
Business Map 2 B4 A small establishment in a country­style rooms. Tel (0911) 2492980 OBERSTDORF: Saschas structure with trendy designs.
Sparkassenstraße 10, 80331 beautiful location at the foot of ∑ hotel-elch.de Kachelofen €€ Sauna and spa facilities.
Tel (089) 237030 the Watzmann. Laroshäusel is a INGOLSTADT: Altstadthotel This clean and simple family-run Gasthof Road Map C7
∑ platzl.de very good base for hiking tours. Guesthouse Die Galerie €€ lodging is in a historic 14th- Kirchstraße 3, 87561 WÜRZBURG: Central Hotel
Warm and modern accommo­ Boutique Road Map D6 century house with exposed Tel (08322) 97750 Garni €€
dation, a stylish spa and a BERCHTESGADEN: Gymnasiumstraße 9, 85049 beams, located in the heart of ∑ saschas-kachelofen.de Budget Road Map C5
fantastic 16th­century restaurant Vier Jahreszeiten €€ Tel (0841) 88690 the Old Town. Traditional, family-run inn Koellikerstraße 1, 97070
and pub, Platzl promises an Budget Road Map E7 ∑ altstadthotel-ingolstadt.de set above a rustic restaurant. Tel (0931) 4608840
enjoyable stay. Maximilianstraße 20, 83471 Angular design dominates in NUREMBERG: Hotel Victoria €€ Rooms here are simple but ∑ centralhotel-wuerzburg.de
Tel (08652) 9520 this spotless mid­range hotel Boutique Road Map D6 comfortable and half-board is Centrally located good-value
Vier Jahreszeiten ∑ hotel-vierjahreszeiten- complete with a café, sauna Königstraße 80, 90402 an option. hotel with basic but good rooms
Kempinski €€€ berchtesgaden.de and rock garden. Tel (0911) 24050 and buffet breakfasts.
Luxury Map 2 C4 Family­run hotel with ∑ hotelvictoria.de PASSAU: Hotel Schloss Ort €€€
Maximilianstraße 17, 80539 traditional Bavarian decor INGOLSTADT: Hotel Lovely and clean four-star hotel Modern Road Map E6 WÜRZBURG: Hotel Grüner
Tel (089) 21252799 throughout and alpine views Ammerland Garni €€€ in a listed building located Im Ort 11, 94032 Baum €€€
∑ kempinski.com from many rooms. Boutique Road Map D6 opposite the train station. Tel (0851) 34072 Pensionen Road Map C5
Prestigious hotel with boutique­ Hermann-Paul-Müller-Straße 15, There's an extensive breakfast ∑ schlosshotel-passau.com Zeller Straße 35, 97082
style rooms and a variety of DK Choice 85055 buffet and a café serving Pleasant rooms, but the Tel (0931) 450680
five­star facilities, including a Tel (0841) 953450 delicious cakes. pictur esque location right on ∑ gruener-baum-wuerzburg.de
steam bath and sauna. BERCHTESGADEN: ∑ hotel-ammerland.de the river is the highlight. Great Small and clean rooms in a
Kempinski Hotel Great choice away from the NUREMBERG: Hotel Drei breakfast buffet. traditional Franconian inn are
Berchtesgaden town centre, with creatively­ Raben €€€ equipped with Wi-Fi and cable
Bavarian Alps €€€ styled rooms, two saunas and Boutique Road Map D6 PASSAU: Wilder Mann €€€ TV. Breakfast buffet.
Bavaria Luxury Road Map E7 a bar. Special services include Königstraße 63, 90402 Historic Road Map E6
Hintereck 1, 83471 rooms for those with allergies, Tel (0911) 274380 Rathausplatz, 94032 WÜRZBURG: Hotel
AUGSBURG: Tel (08652) 97550 a "pillow bar" and kids' facilities. ∑ hoteldreiraben.de Tel (0851) 35071 Würzburger Hof €€€
Steigenberger Drei ∑ kempinski.com Modern trendy accommodation ∑ wilder-mann.com Modern Road Map C5
Mohren €€€ This exclusive five­star LINDAU: Bayerischer Hof €€€ with bold colour schemes. There Central hotel that sports heavy Barbarossaplatz 2, 97070
Historic Road Map D6 establishment has exceptional Luxury Road Map C7 is also a bar and a tasty breakfast traditional furniture including Tel (0931) 53814
Berliner Straße 85, 80805 views of the Alps from Bahnhofplatz 2,88131 buffet on offer. one royal wedding bed. ∑ hotel-wuerzburgerhof.de
Tel (00 800) 78 46 83 57 almost every part of the hotel, Tel (08382) 9150 Würzburger Hof features richly
∑ steigenberger.com including the minimalist ∑ bayerischerhof-lindau.de decorated rooms in a wide variety
In a quiet residential area, time­ bedrooms and the luxurious Neo­Classical building in a of styles and price ranges.
less elegance combines here spa and pools. The gourmet prime lakefront location with
with modern amenities, a spa restaurants on site specialize in views of the lion, lighthouse
and a fitness area. various cuisines. and the alps. Spacious rooms
with 19th­century furnishings. Baden-Württemberg
BAMBERG: Barockhotel
am Dom €€€ FÜSSEN: Hotel Hirsch €€€ LINDAU: Hotel-Spiegel-Garni €€€ BADEN-BADEN: Am Markt €€€
Historic Road Map D5 Boutique Road Map D7 Pensionen Road Map C7 Pensionen Road Map B6
Vorderer Bach 4, 96049 Kaiser-Maximilian-Platz 7, 87629 In der Grub 1, 88131 Marktplatz 18, 76530
Tel (0951) 54031 Tel (0049) 8362 93980 Tel (08382) 94930 Tel (07221) 27040
∑ barockhotel.de ∑ hotelfuessen.de ∑ hotel-spiegel-garni.de ∑ hotel-am-markt-baden.de
Baroque details feature through­ Bavarian antiques meet modern Rooms here range from simple This is a friendly, family-run
out this smart hotel, which dates amenities in one of many yet elegant to extravagantly pension with basic rooms
back to the sixteenth century. successful combinations of new alpine, with wood­clad interiors and views over the charming
Lovely breakfast buffet. and old at this boutique hotel. and floral drapes. Stylishly designed room at Le Méridien Grand, Nuremberg marketplace.
Key to Price Guide see page 492 For more information on types of hotels see page 491
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WHERE T O ST A Y  497

LINDAU: Reutemann €€€ NUREMBERG: Le Méridien REGENSBURG: Goldenes
Mid-Range Hotel Road Map C7 Grand €€€ Kreuz €€€
Ludwigstraße 23, 88131 Boutique Map D6 Boutique Road Map D6
Tel (08382) 9150 Bahnhofstraße 1–3, 90402 Haidplatz 7, 93047
∑ reutemann-lindau.de Tel (0911) 23220 Tel (0941) 55812
Stylish hotel with an ∑ lemeridiennuernberg.com ∑ hotel-goldeneskreuz.de
extraordinary harbourside Elegant hotel with sleek Art Deco Lovely collection of small suites
location, airy rooms, a spa and Art Nouveau furnishings. in a centrally located historic
and an excellent restaurant. Excellent regional brasserie. building. Wonderful café.
NUREMBERG: Dürer Hotel €€€ DK Choice REGENSBURG: Goliath €€€
Modern Road Map D6 Boutique Road Map D6
Neutormauer 32, 90403 OBERAMMERGAU: Hotel Goliathstraße 10, 93047
Tel (0911) 2146650 Maximilian €€€ Tel (0941) 2000900
∑ duerer-hotel.de Gasthof Road Map D7 ∑ hotel-goliath.de
Located next to the Albrecht- Ettaler Straße 5, 82487 Goliath promises bold colours
Dürer-Haus, the Dürer Hotel Tel (08822) 948740 and modern design along
features spacious rooms ∑ maximilian-oberammergau.de with great views from the
decorated in rich colours. For This alpine hotel features a rooftop terrace.
relaxation, guests have access striking array of boutique rooms,
to a sauna, a steam room and along with a luxurious spa. There ROTHENBURG: Burg-Hotel €€€
a Mediterranean garden. is also a fantastic Mediterranean Historic Road Map C6
restaurant and a beer garden to Klostergasse 1–3, 91541
NUREMBERG: Elch €€ sample the hotel’s own brews. Tel (09861) 94890
Historic Road Map D6 ∑ burghotel.eu
Irrerstraße 11, 90403 Hotel combining a 12th-century
Tel (0911) 2492980 OBERSTDORF: Saschas structure with trendy designs.
∑ hotel-elch.de Kachelofen €€ Sauna and spa facilities.
This clean and simple family-run Gasthof Road Map C7
lodging is in a historic 14th- Kirchstraße 3, 87561 WÜRZBURG: Central Hotel
century house with exposed Tel (08322) 97750 Garni €€
beams, located in the heart of ∑ saschas-kachelofen.de Budget Road Map C5
the Old Town. Traditional, family-run inn Koellikerstraße 1, 97070
set above a rustic restaurant. Tel (0931) 4608840
NUREMBERG: Hotel Victoria €€ Rooms here are simple but ∑ centralhotel-wuerzburg.de
Boutique Road Map D6 comfortable and half-board is Centrally located good-value
Königstraße 80, 90402 an option. hotel with basic but good rooms
Tel (0911) 24050 and buffet breakfasts.
∑ hotelvictoria.de PASSAU: Hotel Schloss Ort €€€
Lovely and clean four-star hotel Modern Road Map E6 WÜRZBURG: Hotel Grüner
in a listed building located Im Ort 11, 94032 Baum €€€
opposite the train station. Tel (0851) 34072 Pensionen Road Map C5
There's an extensive breakfast ∑ schlosshotel-passau.com Zeller Straße 35, 97082
buffet and a café serving Pleasant rooms, but the Tel (0931) 450680
delicious cakes. pictur esque location right on ∑ gruener-baum-wuerzburg.de
the river is the highlight. Great Small and clean rooms in a
NUREMBERG: Hotel Drei breakfast buffet. traditional Franconian inn are
Raben €€€ equipped with Wi-Fi and cable
Boutique Road Map D6 PASSAU: Wilder Mann €€€ TV. Breakfast buffet.
Königstraße 63, 90402 Historic Road Map E6
Tel (0911) 274380 Rathausplatz, 94032 WÜRZBURG: Hotel
∑ hoteldreiraben.de Tel (0851) 35071 Würzburger Hof €€€
Modern trendy accommodation ∑ wilder-mann.com Modern Road Map C5
with bold colour schemes. There Central hotel that sports heavy Barbarossaplatz 2, 97070
is also a bar and a tasty breakfast traditional furniture including Tel (0931) 53814
buffet on offer. one royal wedding bed. ∑ hotel-wuerzburgerhof.de
Würzburger Hof features richly
decorated rooms in a wide variety
of styles and price ranges.
Baden-Württemberg
BADEN-BADEN: Am Markt €€€
Pensionen Road Map B6
Marktplatz 18, 76530
Tel (07221) 27040
∑ hotel-am-markt-baden.de
This is a friendly, family-run
pension with basic rooms
and views over the charming
Stylishly designed room at Le Méridien Grand, Nuremberg marketplace.
For more information on types of hotels see page 491


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498  TR A VELLERS ’ NEEDS WHERE T O ST A Y  499

MAULBRONN: Grand 19th-century waterfront TRIER: Casa Chiara €€
Hotel Klosterpost €€ DK Choice hotel with antique-decorated Pensionen Road Map A5
Historic Road Map C6 ULM: Hotel Schiefes Haus €€€ rooms overlooking the Rhine. Engelstraße 8, 54292
Klosterstraße 2, 75433 Historic Road Map C6 There's an atmospheric wine- Tel (0651) 270730
Tel (07043) 1080 Schwörhausgasse 6, 89073 cellar bar and a choice of ∑ casa-chiara.de
∑ hotel-klosterpost.de Tel (0731) 967930 restaurants. Buffet breakfast. Friendly hotel with good
Traditional half-timbered 13th- ∑ hotelschiefeshausulm.de breakfasts and spotless rooms,
century inn with bright rooms This famous half-timbered MAINZ: Hof Ehrenfels €€ some with views of a Roman
and a good regional restaurant. establishment built in 1443 has Historic Road Map B5 city gate.
wood-beam ceilings and floors Grebenstraße 5–7, 55116
MEERSBURG: Hotel Löwen €€€ so crooked that the bed legs Tel (06131) 9712340 TRIER: Becker's €€€
Historic Road Map C7 are of different lengths. The ∑ hof-ehrenfels.de Boutique Road Map A5
Marktplatz 2, 88709 property’s rustic nature has been Smart hotel in a 15th-century Olewiger Straße 206, 54295
Tel (07532) 43040 well-preserved, with plush convent overlooking the Dom. Tel (0651) 938080
∑ hotel-loewen-meersburg.de additions such as bathrooms There is also a wine bar and ∑ weinhaus-becker.de
Romantic medieval building with with spacious tubs. restaurant with a pleasant Stylish vineyard guesthouse in a
beautiful geranium-filled outdoor patio. wine-producing suburb of Trier.
Traditionally-styled room at Graf Zeppelin, Stuttgart windows and snug rooms. The room decor is reminiscent
MAINZ: Hyatt of Japanese minimalism.
BADEN-BADEN: Bad-Hotel One of Heidelberg’s premier STUTTGART: Hotel Espenlaub €€ Regency Mainz €€€
Zum Hirsch €€€ hotels with individually Mid-Range Road Map C6 Rhineland-Palatinate Luxury Road Map B5 TRIER: Villa Hügel €€€
Historic Road Map B6 decorated rooms, several great Charlottenstraße 27, 70182 and Saarland Templerstraße 6, 55116 Luxury Road Map A5
Hirschstraße 1, 76530 restaurants and a bar. Tel (0711) 210910 Tel (06131) 731234 Bernhardstraße 14, 54295
Tel (07221) 9390 ∑ stadthotels-erkurt.de/hotel- ∑ mainz.regency.hyatt.com Tel (0651) 937100
∑ heliopark-hirsch.de HEIDELBERG: Hirschgasse €€€ esplenlaub DK Choice Sophisticated five-star hotel ∑ hotel-villa-huegel.de
Thermal spring water flows Luxury Road Map C6 Basic hotel with small, bright in a striking modern building that Upmarket Art Nouveau villa
from the taps in this charming Hirschgasse 3, 69120 and simple rooms and a modest BACHARACH: integrates a 19th-century fort sporting cheerful rooms and
Old Town hotel. Also boasts a Tel (06221) 4540 complimentary breakfast buffet. Rhein Hotel €€€ and overlooks the Rhine. a terrace with lovely views over
splendid ballroom. ∑ hirschgasse.de Historic Road Map B5 the valley.
The former lodgings of Mark Twain STUTTGART: Graf Zeppelin €€€ Langstraßse 50, 55422 OBERWESEL: Burghotel Auf
BADEN-BADEN: Brenner’s and Otto von Bismarck is a gem Luxury Road Map C6 Tel (06743) 1243 Schönburg €€€ WORMS: Parkhotel
Park Hotel €€€ with museum-worthy antiques. Arnulf-Klett-Platz 7, 70173 ∑ rhein-hotel-bacharach.de Historic Road Map B5 Prinz Carl €€€
Luxury Road Map B6 Tel (0711) 20480 Rhein is an excellent family- Auf Schönburg, 55430 Historic Road Map B5
Schillerstraße 4–6, 76530 KARLSRUHE: Hotelwelt ∑ steigenberger.com run, half-timbered hotel in an Tel (06744) 939 30 Prinz-Carl-Anlage 10–14, 67547
Tel (07221) 9000 Kübler €€ This five-star hotel promises 19th- atmospheric location between ∑ burghotel-schoenburg.de Tel (06241) 3080
∑ brenners.com Boutique Road Map B6 century elegance. Classical as the town ramparts and the A castle restored in 1914 with ∑ parkhotel-prinzcarl.de
An effortlessly elegant hotel with Bismarckstraße 39–43, 76133 well as avant-garde rooms. Rhine. Rooms are spotless, 10th-century foundations. Lovely Located within a complex of
extravagant antique furnishings Tel (0721) 1440 there is a superb regional interiors and terrace restaurant. 19th-century army barracks
throughout its rooms and lounges. ∑ 4a-hotelwelt.de STUTTGART: Der restaurant with excellent Riesling with large, cheerfully decorated
Variety of rooms from standard Zauberlehrling €€€ wines, an extensive breakfast SAARBRÜCKEN: Hotel rooms. There is an on-site bar,
FREIBURG IM BREISGAU: mid-range to themed suites. Boutique Road Map C6 buffet and free bike rental. Madeleine €€ a restaurant and bistro for a
Schemmer €€ On-site microbrewery. Rosenstraße 38, 70182 Offers views of the vineyards. Budget Road Map B6 quick lunch.
Budget Road Map B7 Tel (0711) 2377770 Cecilienstraße 5, 66111
Eschholzstraße 63, 79106 KONSTANZ: Barbarossa €€€ ∑ zauberlehrling.de Tel (0681) 857780
Tel (0761) 207490 Historic Road Map C7 Located in the hip Bohnenviertel BOPPARD: Bellevue ∑ hotel-madeleine.de
∑ hotel-schemmer.de Obermarkt 8–12, 78462 district. Tasteful themed rooms, Rheinhotel €€€ A family-run hotel with small Hesse
Tidy little town house with modest Tel (07531) 128990 from Japanese to faded fin de siècle. Historic Road Map B5 and bright rooms, free bike rental
accommodation, some rooms ∑ barbarossa-hotel.com Rheinallee 41, 56154 and bargain mid-week rates. The ALSFELD: Zum
have shared bathrooms. This mid-range hotel has TÜBINGEN: Hotel am Schloss €€€ Tel (06742) 1020 rooms are all different, furnished Schwalbennest €€
frescoes covering the walls. Historic Road Map C6 ∑ bellevue-boppard.de with lively wallpaper with Gasthof Road Map C4
DK Choice The building played host to Burgsteige 18, 72070 modern patterns. Pfarrwiesenweg 12–14, 36304
Friedrich I in 1183.
Tel (07071) 92940
Tel (06631) 911440
FREIBURG IM BREISGAU: ∑ hotelamschloss.de SPEYER: Hotel Domhof €€€ ∑ hotel-schwalbennest.de
Zum Roten Bären €€€ KONSTANZ: Steigenberger Half-timbered place with colour- Historic Road Map B6 Serene and cheerful Zum
Historic Road Map B7 Inselhotel €€€ ful window boxes and fine town Bauhof 3, 67346 Schwalbennest offers
Oberlinden 12, 79098 Luxury Road Map C7 views from below the castle. Tel (06232) 13290 comfortable rooms, a rustic
Tel (0761) 387870 Auf der Insel 1, 78462 ∑ domhof.de restaurant and a beer garden –
∑ roter-baeren.de Tel (07531) 1250 TÜBINGEN: Hotel Krone €€€ Stay in this ivy-clad hotel with the perfect spot for a lazy
Germany’s oldest hotel, Zum ∑ steigenberger.com Luxury Road Map C6 spacious antique-furnished summer afternoon.
Roten Bären opened in 1120 Prestigious establishment in a Uhlandstraße 1, 72072 rooms overlooking a cobbled
and became part of the city medieval Dominican monastery. Tel (07071) 13310 courtyard. There is also a superb BAD HOMBURG:
gate in 1250. The contemporary Located on its own island. ∑ krone-tuebingen.de breakfast buffet. Maritim Hotel €€€
rooms have the occasional Prestigious riverside hotel with Mid-Range Hotel Road Map C5
antique providing a sense of LUDWIGSBURG: bright rooms, a sophisticated ST MARTIN: St Martiner Castell €€ Ludwigstraße 3, 61348
history. First-class breakfasts. Hotel Favorit €€€ gourmet restaurant and chic bar. Historic Road Map B6 Tel (06172) 6600
Mid-Range Hotel Road Map C6 Maikammerer Straße 2, 67487 ∑ maritim.de
Gartenstraße 18, 71638 ULM: Hotel Bäumle €€ Tel (06323) 9510 Impeccably decorated rooms
HEIDELBERG: Der Tel (07141) 976770 Pensionen Road Map C6 ∑ hotelcastell.de with balconies overlooking a
Europäische Hof €€€ ∑ hotel-favorit.de Kohlgasse 6, 89073 St Martiner is an attractive park. Guests have use of the
Luxury Road Map C6 A great hotel with cheerful pine- Tel (0731) 62287 castle-hotel with well-priced pool, sauna, fitness centre,
Friedrich-Ebert-Anlage 1, 69117 furnished pastel rooms. There is ∑ hotel-baeumle.de rooms. Its restaurant serves and an elegant shopping
Tel (06221) 5150 a sauna and an extensive break- Good value rooms in a renovated The picturesque exterior of Hotel Schiefes German and French staples. Set arcade that can be accessed
∑ europaeischerhof.com fast buffet. building that's over 500 years old. Haus, Ulm in an exceptionally pretty village. from the hotel.
Key to Price Guide see page 492 For more information on types of hotels see page 491
492-503_EW_Germany.indd 498 16/10/17 3:09 pm 492-503_EW_Germany.indd 499 16/10/17 3:09 pm