(DK Eyewitness) Travel Guide - Germany

GERM AN Y THROUGH THE Y EAR  49


MECKLENBURG-
LOWER POMERANIA BRANDENBURG
24
°C 21 °C (75)
(F) (70) 12.5 (F) 13
10 (55) 14
(50) 14 (55) 13 (57)
3 7.5 2 (55)
(37) 4 (57) (46) (36) 3.5 6
(39) (38) (43)
0 0
-2 -3
(28) (27)
1.5 5.5 7.5 3.5 1.5 5.5 7.5 3.7
Flensburg
hrs hrs hrs hrs hrs hrs hrs hrs
Schleswig Bergen
40 42 72 50 44 44 52 35
Kiel mm mm mm mm mm mm mm mm
Rostock month Jan Apr Jul Oct month Jan Apr Jul Oct
Wismar
Lübeck Güstrow
Neubrandenburg
Hamburg BERLIN
Bremen Wittenberge °C 24
Neuruppin (F) 13 (75)
(55) 13 13
Nienburg (55)
Stendal 2 (55)
Berlin 4 5
Brandenburg (36) (39) (41)
Hanover Potsdam 0 -4
Magdeburg Luckenwalde SAXONY-ANHALT (25)
Münster 1.9 6.4 8.1 4.1
Dessau Lutherstadt hrs hrs hrs hrs
23
Paderborn Wittenberg Cottbus °C (73) 43 41 70 47
13
Dortmund Göttingen Halle (F) (55) 14 mm mm mm mm
Leipzig 12 (57)
Düsseldorf Kassel 2.4 (54) 6 month Jan Apr Jul Oct
Dresden (36) 3.5
Eisenach Altenburg (58) (43)
Cologne Siegen Weimar 0
-3
Aachen Gotha Chemnitz (27)
Bonn Marburg
1.5 3.5 SAXONY
Fulda Plauen 5 hrs 7 hrs
hrs hrs
Koblenz 33 40 48 29 22
Frankfurt Hof °C
am Main mm mm mm mm (F) 12 (72) 13
Mainz (54) 12 (55)
Trier Würzburg Bamberg month Jan Apr Jul Oct 1.5 (54) 6
(35) 3 (43)
Mannheim 0 -4 (37)
Nuremberg
Saarbrücken Heidelberg (39)
4.5 6.6
2 hrs 4 hrs
Karlsruhe Regensburg hrs hrs
42 55 76 47
Neuburg
Stuttgart
Passau mm mm mm mm
Ulm Augsburg month Jan Apr Jul Oct
Munich
Freiburg
im Breisgau
Kempten BAVARIA THURINGIA
Konstanz Garmisch-
Partenkirchen
°C 23 °C 22
MUNICH (F) 14 (73) 13 12 (72) 13
(57) (55) (F) (55)
12 (54) 12
°C 23 2 (54) 1.5 (54) 5
(F) 13 (73) 13 (36) 3 3 (35) 3 (41)
(55) (55) 0 (37) (37) 0 (37)
12 -4 -3.5
1 (54) (25) (26)
(34) 3 4 1.5 7.5 1.7
0 (37) (39) 5 hrs 4 hrs 5 hrs 7 hrs 4 hrs
-6 hrs hrs hrs
(43)
46 47 69 45 24.5 45 46 33
2.2 7.7 4.6
6 hrs mm mm mm mm mm mm mm mm
hrs hrs hrs
month Jan Apr Jul Oct month Jan Apr Jul Oct
59 62 140 67
mm mm mm mm
month Jan Apr Jul Oct
048-049_EW_Germany.indd 49 09/10/17 12:54 pm

INTRODUCING GERM AN Y  51

THE HISTORY OF

GERMANY


Germany is a country of cultural and religious contrasts. Regional differences in
culture, language and traditions arose from the historical division of the country
into many small states. Such differences have been further accentuated by the
recent experience of generations of Germans who, until 1990, grew up under
two conflicting social systems: capitalism and communism.


Early History notably the Goths, often entered into
In the 1st millennium BC, the basins of alliances with the Romans. In the 5th
the Rhine, Danube and Main rivers were century, however, they took advantage
settled by Celts, who had been largely of Rome’s weakness to appropriate
displaced by Germanic tribes by the parts of the empire for themselves.
2nd century BC. In the 1st century BC
the Roman legions waged wars with the Early Middle Ages
Germans, and conquered the territories After the collapse of the Roman Empire,
west of the Rhine. The settlements they the area between the Rhine and the Elbe
founded there later developed into was ruled by the Franks, who gradually
towns like Trier, Mainz, Cologne and converted to Christianity from the 6th
Xanten. The Romans made numerous century. One of the most important
attempts to conquer the eastern regions figures in this process was the 8th-century
between the Rhine and the Elbe rivers. missionary, St Boniface. When Charlemagne
They eventually reached the Elbe at was crowned Emperor in 800, the territory
the end of the 1st century BC, but the of present-day Germany became part
Germans, under the leadership of of the Frankish Empire. The Empire was
Arminius, also known as Germanus, partitioned by the Treaty of Verdun in 843,
defeated the Roman armies in the with the eastern part going to Ludwig the
Teutoburg Forest in AD 9, and so ended German. In the 10th century the kingdom,
their presence in this region. A system which was made up of numerous tribal
of fortifications, or limes, built in the states, passed to the house of Liudolf.
2nd century along the course of the Otto I, son of Heinrich I and the first king
Danube and the Rhine, divided the from this Saxon family, was crowned
region into two: Germania Romana, the Emperor in 962 after several political
Roman province, and Germania Libra, and military victories, in particular his
free Germany. The free German tribes, defeat of the Magyars.


843 Treaty of 919 Coronation 962 Otto I
Verdun and of the Saxon crowned Emperor
754 Death of Golden dissolution of the Heinrich I
St Boniface Roman mask Frankish state
700 800 900 1000
814 Death of 936 Otto I
785 Baptism of Widukind, Charlemagne crowned King
Duke of Saxony
800 Charlemagne 955 Otto I defeats the 8th-century
crowned Emperor Magyars at the Lech reliquary
of the Franks River near Augsburg
Germania Awakening, a patriotic 19th-century work by Christian Köhler



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INTRODUCING GERM AN Y  51

THE HISTORY OF

GERMANY


Germany is a country of cultural and religious contrasts. Regional differences in
culture, language and traditions arose from the historical division of the country
into many small states. Such differences have been further accentuated by the
recent experience of generations of Germans who, until 1990, grew up under
two conflicting social systems: capitalism and communism.


Early History notably the Goths, often entered into
In the 1st millennium BC, the basins of alliances with the Romans. In the 5th
the Rhine, Danube and Main rivers were century, however, they took advantage
settled by Celts, who had been largely of Rome’s weakness to appropriate
displaced by Germanic tribes by the parts of the empire for themselves.
2nd century BC. In the 1st century BC
the Roman legions waged wars with the Early Middle Ages
Germans, and conquered the territories After the collapse of the Roman Empire,
west of the Rhine. The settlements they the area between the Rhine and the Elbe
founded there later developed into was ruled by the Franks, who gradually
towns like Trier, Mainz, Cologne and converted to Christianity from the 6th
Xanten. The Romans made numerous century. One of the most important
attempts to conquer the eastern regions figures in this process was the 8th-century
between the Rhine and the Elbe rivers. missionary, St Boniface. When Charlemagne
They eventually reached the Elbe at was crowned Emperor in 800, the territory
the end of the 1st century BC, but the of present-day Germany became part
Germans, under the leadership of of the Frankish Empire. The Empire was
Arminius, also known as Germanus, partitioned by the Treaty of Verdun in 843,
defeated the Roman armies in the with the eastern part going to Ludwig the
Teutoburg Forest in AD 9, and so ended German. In the 10th century the kingdom,
their presence in this region. A system which was made up of numerous tribal
of fortifications, or limes, built in the states, passed to the house of Liudolf.
2nd century along the course of the Otto I, son of Heinrich I and the first king
Danube and the Rhine, divided the from this Saxon family, was crowned
region into two: Germania Romana, the Emperor in 962 after several political
Roman province, and Germania Libra, and military victories, in particular his
free Germany. The free German tribes, defeat of the Magyars.


843 Treaty of 919 Coronation 962 Otto I
Verdun and of the Saxon crowned Emperor
754 Death of Golden dissolution of the Heinrich I
St Boniface Roman mask Frankish state
700 800 900 1000
814 Death of 936 Otto I
785 Baptism of Widukind, Charlemagne crowned King
Duke of Saxony
800 Charlemagne 955 Otto I defeats the 8th-century
crowned Emperor Magyars at the Lech reliquary
of the Franks River near Augsburg
Germania Awakening, a patriotic 19th-century work by Christian Köhler



050-053_EW_Germany.indd 51 09/10/17 12:54 pm

52  INTRODUCING GERM AN Y THE HIST OR Y OF GERM AN Y  53

Consolidating asked the Pope to step northwestern Slavic tribes. From the duchies. In the 13th century a system
Power down. Pope Gregory VII start of the 13th century Barbarossa also evolved by which only seven elector-dukes
With Otto being excommunicated conquered territories occupied by the had the right to elect the emperor. These
crowned emperor, Heinrich. The dukes Baltic peoples and the Estonians, were the Margrave of Brandenburg, the
the dynasty of the of Saxony used the which involved armed expeditions Elector of Palatine (or the Bavarian
Saxon house of opportu nity to by the North German cities and dukes), the Duke of Saxony, the King
Liudolf acceded to appoint a king in orders of knights. of Bohemia and the Archbishops of
power. It gave the opposition to Enamelled Roman esque medallion, Friedrich II, crowned Emperor Trier, Cologne and Mainz. Starting
country three Heinrich, and the dating from around 1150 in 1220, was also King of Sicily and with Rudolf I of Habsburg, who
further rulers – Pope attempted to his Italian interests brought was elected king of Germany in
Otto II, Otto III and intervene in the dispute. Heinrich IV saw further conflict with the papacy. 1273, until 1438 the kings came
Heinrich II. In the himself forced to march to Canossa in Italy, Ultimately his policies brought from the rival houses of Habsburg,
year 925 Otto I where the Pope had sought refuge, in order about the collapse of imperial Wittelsbach and Luxemburg.
annexed Lotharingia to stop his empire from falling apart. Doing power. After his death in 1250, After 1312, the same houses
(pre sent-day penance in this way forced the Pope to his successor was unable to also competed for the
Lorraine). On the withdraw his excommunication. The dispute find any support, which led title of Emperor. The
Stained-glass window in eastern frontier he did not end there, however, but continued to the period known as the Emperor Rudolf I of Habsburg most outstanding of the
Augsburg cathedral created two “marks”, for several years, finally ending with the Great Interregnum. 14th-century rulers of
the Nordmark and Signing of the Concordat of Worms in 1122. Germany was Karl IV of Luxemburg, who
the Ostmark, as buffer states designed to The Interregnum resided permanently in Prague. In 1338
subjugate the Slav-populated regions east Hohenstaufens and Welfs The fall of the Hohenstaufens marked the the electors had rejected the requirement
of the Oder River. After Heinrich II’s death, After the Salian dynasty died out in 1125 end of the old imperial system. The absence for the Pope to confirm election results. In
the house of the Salian Franks took the and the brief reign of Lothar III of the of an overall ruler led to a breakdown in law 1356 Karl IV issued the “Golden Bull” which
imperial throne and used their authority to Saxon dynasty, another long drawn-out and order, and resulted in the rise of the underlined the federal nature of the state,
limit the power of the local feudal dukes. conflict broke out, between the houses of Raubritter (robber-barons). To protect their and clarified the rules for electing its leader.
Hohenstaufen and Welf (known in Italian as common interests, the trading cities
The Investiture Controversy Ghibellines and Guelphs). Imperial power set up alliances. The collapse of
In the 11th century the empire came went to the Hohenstaufens, while the imperial power, and the decline in the
into conflict with the papacy. greatest political victories were power of the dukes thus gradually led
Matters came to a head in the scored by Friedrich I Barbarossa to an increase in the power of the
so-called “investiture controversy”. (meaning “red beard”). He intended German cities.
Pope Gregory VII asserted gradually to break up his From the beginning, the imperial
the church’s right to subject principalities and throne had been elective, with dukes
appoint bishops. Emperor to rule them under a electing the emperor from the male
Heinrich IV, meanwhile, who feudal system. The 12th members of the dynasty. There was
had been relying on the century also saw further also no capital city, as the emperors
support of the clergy he expansion eastwards moved from one city to another, thus
had appointed, called his and northwards into spreading the costs of maintaining A “Minneteppich” – part of a medieval tapestry, depicting a variety of human
bishops together and 12th-century reliquary from the Welf family vaults areas inhabited by the the imperial court among different traits and a griffin, the mythical beast


1138 Coronation of Konrad III,
1027 Coronation first Hohenstaufen Emperor 1155 Coronation of 1155 Coronation of 1312 Heinrich VII
of Konrad II, first Friedrich I Barbarossa Friedrich I Barbarossa crowned Emperor
Emperor of the Salians as Emperoras Emperor 1250 Beginning of the Silver coin
Great Interregnum from 1369
1000 1050 1100 11501150 1200 1250 1300 1350
1074 Beginning 1122 The Concordat
of Investiture of Worms 1348 Prague University founded
Struggle 1273 End of the Great
1077 Heinrich IV Interregnum and 1386 Heidelberg
11th-century does penance Portable altar from coronation of Rudolf I 1356 Golden Bull issued University founded
reliquary cross at Canossa the vaults of the Welfs




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(Source v1.2)
Date 20th August 2012
Size 125mm x 217mm

THE HIST OR Y OF GERM AN Y  53


northwestern Slavic tribes. From the duchies. In the 13th century a system
start of the 13th century Barbarossa also evolved by which only seven elector-dukes
conquered territories occupied by the had the right to elect the emperor. These
Baltic peoples and the Estonians, were the Margrave of Brandenburg, the
which involved armed expeditions Elector of Palatine (or the Bavarian
by the North German cities and dukes), the Duke of Saxony, the King
orders of knights. of Bohemia and the Archbishops of
Friedrich II, crowned Emperor Trier, Cologne and Mainz. Starting
in 1220, was also King of Sicily and with Rudolf I of Habsburg, who
his Italian interests brought was elected king of Germany in
further conflict with the papacy. 1273, until 1438 the kings came
Ultimately his policies brought from the rival houses of Habsburg,
about the collapse of imperial Wittelsbach and Luxemburg.
power. After his death in 1250, After 1312, the same houses
his successor was unable to also competed for the
find any support, which led title of Emperor. The
to the period known as the Emperor Rudolf I of Habsburg most outstanding of the
Great Interregnum. 14th-century rulers of
Germany was Karl IV of Luxemburg, who
The Interregnum resided permanently in Prague. In 1338
The fall of the Hohenstaufens marked the the electors had rejected the requirement
end of the old imperial system. The absence for the Pope to confirm election results. In
of an overall ruler led to a breakdown in law 1356 Karl IV issued the “Golden Bull” which
and order, and resulted in the rise of the underlined the federal nature of the state,
Raubritter (robber-barons). To protect their and clarified the rules for electing its leader.
common interests, the trading cities
set up alliances. The collapse of
imperial power, and the decline in the
power of the dukes thus gradually led
to an increase in the power of the
German cities.
From the beginning, the imperial
throne had been elective, with dukes
electing the emperor from the male
members of the dynasty. There was
also no capital city, as the emperors
moved from one city to another, thus
spreading the costs of maintaining A “Minneteppich” – part of a medieval tapestry, depicting a variety of human
the imperial court among different traits and a griffin, the mythical beast


1155 Coronation of 1312 Heinrich VII
Friedrich I Barbarossa crowned Emperor
as Emperor Silver coin
1250 Beginning of the
Great Interregnum from 1369
1150 1200 1250 1300 1350
1348 Prague University founded
1273 End of the Great
Interregnum and 1386 Heidelberg
coronation of Rudolf I 1356 Golden Bull issued University founded





050-053_EW_Germany.indd 53 09/10/17 12:54 pm

54  INTRODUCING GERM AN Y THE HIST OR Y OF GERM AN Y  55

The Hanseatic League The Hanseatic Cities

The German Hanseatic League, or Hanse, was only one of In the major Hanseatic cities, the
many guilds of traders or cities that existed in the Middle Ages, most prominent buildings grew
but its important historical role made it one of the best known. up around the Markt (market
square) and along the streets
Established in the 13th century, it reached its peak in the that led to the port. The market
14th century and declined again in the 16th century. Over square would contain the
160 cities, primarily the trading cities of northern Germany, Panoramic view of Lübeck Rathaus (town hall), with its
but also including Baltic ports as far afield as Visby, Riga and The vast port town of Lübeck was the largest multi-functional interiors, and
the equally splendid banqueting
Tallinn, joined the League. It exercised total control over Madonna of the Roses Hanseatic city. This 15th-century woodcut shows a halls and ballrooms, such as the
trade from the Baltic in the east to England in the west. The 15th-century painting by view of the city with its numerous church spires. Gürzenich in Cologne. The main
Hanseatic cities were among the wealthiest in Europe, and Stefan Lochner of the cathedrals in the cities were
Cologne School.
crafts and the arts flourished there. dedicated either to St Mary
or St Nicholas. The gabled
residential houses had narrow
Harbour façades with distinctive portals.
officials in The townscape of the port areas
their offices was dominated by granaries,
Hanse ships, loaded warehouses and numerous cranes.
with merchandise, The cities were all enclosed and
entering the harbour protected by solid fortifications.



The Leichter
was a harbour
Revenue officials boat used to
awaiting the cargo carry cargo from
the ships to
The Wise and Foolish Maidens the warehouses.
The flowering of art in the Hanseatic cities brought about
works such as this portal of Magdeburg Cathedral. The town hall in Brunswick
(Braunschweig), with its open
upper arcades and statues of the
Crucifix in Welfs, is one of the finest surviving
Lübeck Cathedral Hanseatic secular buildings.
This crucifix is one of Round Hamburg
only few painted wooden merchants
wood-carvings made cranes with
by Bernt Notke of swivelling arms
Lübeck that have were used to
survived until today. unload ships.
One example
still survives
in Lüneburg.
Russian
merchants,
recognizable by
their distinctive
clothing, are
engrossed
in intense
negotiations.
The Port of Hamburg
Hamburg, along with Bremen, Lübeck and
Cogs Gdansk, was one of the leading Hanseatic The Kröpeliner Tor in Rostock
Heavy, flat-bottomed sailing ships cities. In the 14th century, it was the main is one of 22 towers on the
with limited manoeuvrability, cogs were centre for trade between the North Sea and defensive walls around the
medieval city centre.
fishermen’s and merchants’ boats or navy the Baltic. This miniature, showing the port
vessels in the North Sea and the Baltic of Hamburg, dates from the 15th century.
from the 12th to the 14th centuries.



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Date 7th January 2013
Size 125mm x 217mm

THE HIST OR Y OF GERM AN Y  55


The Hanseatic Cities
In the major Hanseatic cities, the
most prominent buildings grew
up around the Markt (market
square) and along the streets
that led to the port. The market
square would contain the
Rathaus (town hall), with its
Panoramic view of Lübeck multi-functional interiors, and
The vast port town of Lübeck was the largest the equally splendid banqueting
Hanseatic city. This 15th-century woodcut shows a halls and ballrooms, such as the
view of the city with its numerous church spires. Gürzenich in Cologne. The main
cathedrals in the cities were
dedicated either to St Mary
or St Nicholas. The gabled
residential houses had narrow
Harbour façades with distinctive portals.
officials in The townscape of the port areas
their offices was dominated by granaries,
warehouses and numerous cranes.
The cities were all enclosed and
protected by solid fortifications.




The Leichter
was a harbour
boat used to
carry cargo from
the ships to
the warehouses.
The town hall in Brunswick
(Braunschweig), with its open
upper arcades and statues of the
Welfs, is one of the finest surviving
Hanseatic secular buildings.
Hamburg
merchants







Russian
merchants,
recognizable by
their distinctive
clothing, are
engrossed
in intense
negotiations.
The Port of Hamburg
Hamburg, along with Bremen, Lübeck and
Gdansk, was one of the leading Hanseatic The Kröpeliner Tor in Rostock
cities. In the 14th century, it was the main is one of 22 towers on the
centre for trade between the North Sea and defensive walls around the
the Baltic. This miniature, showing the port medieval city centre.
of Hamburg, dates from the 15th century.





054-055_EW_Germany.indd 55 09/10/17 12:54 pm

56  INTRODUCING GERM AN Y THE HIST OR Y OF GERM AN Y  57


retained it until 1740. Attempts at political the religious conflicts. However, the
reform in the second half of the 15th century influence of the Counter-Reformation
failed. The most ambitious reformer was in the early 17th century ended this
Maximilian I. He called an Imperial Tribunal in stability. The Protestant Union and
1495 which set about transferring part of the Catholic League were established in
king’s authority to the judiciary; however, it 1608 and 1609 respectively. Unrest
did not result in any great practical changes, in Prague, where the states with a
although it gave slightly more power to the Protestant majority opposed the
Reichstag, the imperial parliament. election of the Catholic Ferdinand II
as king of Bohemia, began the Thirty
The Reformation Urban life in Germany in the early 16th century, in a painting by Years’ War. This religious war quickly
Germany entered the Jörg Breu the Elder (around 1475–1537) spread throughout Germany, and also
16th century as a drew in Denmark, Spain, Sweden and
country simmering with and he was unable to prevent the spread France. Much of the country and many towns
social conflict, gradually of Lutheranism. The unrest led to rebellions were laid waste, and vast numbers of people
becoming steeped in such as the Knights’ War of 1522 and the died. Finally, in 1648, the German states,
the ideas of humanism, Lion-shaped water jug Peasants’ War of 1524, and these were France and Sweden signed the Peace of
thanks to the writings of (1540) followed by continuous religious conflict. Westphalia in Münster, resulting in major
Jan Hus being burned at the stake Erasmus of Rotterdam In 1530 the Protestants set up the League of losses of territory for Germany, mainly in the
and others. The rise of Martin Luther, who in Schmalkalden, which was finally broken up north. A new political system emerged, with
The Hussite Wars and 1517 nailed his 95 Theses to the door of the by the Emperor in the war of 1546–7. These the German princes enjoying complete
the Habsburg Dynasty Castle Church in Wittenberg, and who basically religious clashes ultimately led to political independence, under a weakened
The last king and emperor of the house of opposed the trade in indulgences conducted the division of Germany into a northern emperor and pope. The second half of the
Luxemburg, Sigismund, brought an end to by the clergy, set the Reformation in motion Protestant part and a Catholic south, a 17th century was marked by the rebuilding
the “Great Schism” in the Western church that (see pp130–31). The idea of ecclesiastical situation that was sanctioned in 1555 by of towns and the hard work of restoring the
had persisted since 1378. The reform propounded by the Peace of Augsburg. This established ruined economic infrastructure.
Council of Constance, which he Luther gained a growing the principle of cuius regio,
called in 1414, led to the election following. His supporters eius religio, which meant
of a single, rather than two rival included princes who that each ruler had the
popes. However, new religious hoped to profit from the right to decide on the faith
controversy was provoked by the secularization of church of the region, and the only
death sentence for heresy passed property, as well as other option left for anyone of a
in 1415 on Jan Hus, a religious social classes that simply saw different persuasion was to
reformer from Bohemia. The an opportunity to improve move elsewhere.
ensuing Hussite Wars ravaged their lot. In 1519 Maximilian I
the northern and western regions died, and Karl V was elected The Thirty Years’ War
of Germany. to succeed him. Karl’s The second half of the
From 1482 the imperial crown Title page of the first German edition interests were focused on 16th century was relatively
went to the Habs burgs, who of the Bible Spain and the Netherlands, stable for Germany, despite A scene in the Thirty Years’ War, in a painting by Wilhelm von Diez

1540 The first stock exchanges are set 1540 The first stock exchanges are set
up in Augsburg and Nurembergup in Augsburg and Nuremberg 1609 Establishment of 1618 Thirty Monument to the
1555 Religious Peace the Catholic League Years’ War Great Elector,
1419–36 c.1450 The first 1517 Luther’s Theses and the of Augsburg breaks out Friedrich Wilhelm I
Hussite Wars printing press start of the Reformation 1608 Foundation of the
Maximilian I Protestant Union
1400 1450 1500 1550 1600 1650
1524–25 The 1524–25 The 1546 1546
1414–18 1438 Coronation of Peasants’ WarPeasants’ War Schmalkalden Schmalkalden
Council of Albrecht II, first 1495 Edict banning the War beginsWar begins 16th-century 1640 Accession to the 1648 Peace of
Constance Emperor of the waging of private wars 1522 The tile, depicting a Brandenburg throne by Westphalia ends the
House of Habsburg Knights’ War falconer Friedrich Wilhelm I Thirty Years’ War




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THE HIST OR Y OF GERM AN Y  57


the religious conflicts. However, the
influence of the Counter-Reformation
in the early 17th century ended this
stability. The Protestant Union and
Catholic League were established in
1608 and 1609 respectively. Unrest
in Prague, where the states with a
Protestant majority opposed the
election of the Catholic Ferdinand II
as king of Bohemia, began the Thirty
Urban life in Germany in the early 16th century, in a painting by Years’ War. This religious war quickly
Jörg Breu the Elder (around 1475–1537) spread throughout Germany, and also
drew in Denmark, Spain, Sweden and
and he was unable to prevent the spread France. Much of the country and many towns
of Lutheranism. The unrest led to rebellions were laid waste, and vast numbers of people
such as the Knights’ War of 1522 and the died. Finally, in 1648, the German states,
Peasants’ War of 1524, and these were France and Sweden signed the Peace of
followed by continuous religious conflict. Westphalia in Münster, resulting in major
In 1530 the Protestants set up the League of losses of territory for Germany, mainly in the
Schmalkalden, which was finally broken up north. A new political system emerged, with
by the Emperor in the war of 1546–7. These the German princes enjoying complete
basically religious clashes ultimately led to political independence, under a weakened
the division of Germany into a northern emperor and pope. The second half of the
Protestant part and a Catholic south, a 17th century was marked by the rebuilding
situation that was sanctioned in 1555 by of towns and the hard work of restoring the
the Peace of Augsburg. This established ruined economic infrastructure.
the principle of cuius regio,
eius religio, which meant
that each ruler had the
right to decide on the faith
of the region, and the only
option left for anyone of a
different persuasion was to
move elsewhere.

The Thirty Years’ War
The second half of the
16th century was relatively
stable for Germany, despite A scene in the Thirty Years’ War, in a painting by Wilhelm von Diez

1540 The first stock exchanges are set
up in Augsburg and Nuremberg 1609 Establishment of 1618 Thirty Monument to the
1555 Religious Peace the Catholic League Years’ War Great Elector,
of Augsburg breaks out Friedrich Wilhelm I
1608 Foundation of the
Protestant Union
1550 1600 1650
1524–25 The 1546
Peasants’ War Schmalkalden
War begins 16th-century 1640 Accession to the 1648 Peace of
tile, depicting a Brandenburg throne by Westphalia ends the
falconer Friedrich Wilhelm I Thirty Years’ War




056-057_EW_Germany.indd 57 09/10/17 12:54 pm

58  INTRODUCING GERM AN Y THE HIST OR Y OF GERM AN Y  59


European city and a centre of the The tide turned for
Enlightenment. In 1740–42, in the Germany at the Battle
Seven Years’ War, Frederick the of Leipzig in 1813, when
Great took Silesia from the Habs­ Russia, Austria and Prussia
burgs without major losses. In defeated the French. After
1772 he took part in the first Napoleon’s final defeat at
partition of Poland. Waterloo in 1815, the
In the second half of the 18th Congress of Vienna
century Germany produced a established a German
succession of great poets and Confederation under Victory Report at the Battle of Leipzig by Johann Peter Krafft (1839)
playwrights – figures such as Austrian control. Its
Gotthold Ephraim Lessing, supreme body was the Bundestag (federal widespread confrontation between the state
Goethe in the Roman Campagna by Johann H W Tischbein (1787) Friedrich Schiller and Johann parliament), which met at Frankfurt am Main. and the Catholic Church (known as the
Wolfgang von Goethe. The wars of liberation against “Kulturkampf”). The economy, however,
Absolutism and the Rise of Prussia Napoleon had led to a growth in flourished, due to the boom in industry, in
In the second half of the 17th century and The Napoleonic Wars, Restoration nationalism and democratic particular mining, metallurgy, electrical and
throughout the 18th century, Germany was a and Revolution awareness, as well as a desire chemical engineering. This led to the rise of a
loose federation of small, politically weak From 1793 onwards the German states for unification. In 1848 the workers’ movement, inspired by the ideas of
states in the west, and much more powerful were involved in the Napoleonic Wars. After March Revolution broke out in Karl Marx. In 1875 the workers’ parties united
states in the east and the south – Saxony, France’s occupation of the lands west of the Berlin. Its main driving force was and formed the Social Democratic Party of
which was ruled by the house of Wettin, and Rhine, a territorial reform was carried out by the urban middle class, but the Germany (SPD). Although the party was
Bavaria, ruled by the Wittelsbachs. However, the Reichsdeputations Hauptschluss in revolt was finally put down by banned between 1878 and 1890, it rapidly
the rising star was the state of Brandenburg, 1803. This resulted in the secularization of Vase with por trait of Prussian troops in 1849. gained support, and a system of social
ruled by the house of Hohenzollern, which most church property, and the total of 289 Kaiser Wilhelm II In the 1820s and 1830s, welfare for workers was gradually introduced.
from 1657 also ruled Prussia. states and free cities was Germany underwent rapid At the beginning of the 20th century,
In 1701 the Elector Friedrich III reduced to 112 larger industrialization, and the establishment of Germany was a powerful state with overseas
crowned himself King of states. States that gained the Zollverein (customs union) in 1834 colonies. Imperialist ten dencies grew, and
Prussia (as Friedrich I), and from this supported marked the first step towards a united increased tensions in European politics, part i­
subsequently the name Napoleon in his defeat Germany. Uniting Germany was the main cularly in the Balkans, led inevitably to war.
“Prussia” was applied to all of Austria in the war of goal of the Prussian premier Otto von
areas ruled by the house of 1805–7. In 1806 the Holy Bismarck. Prussia’s victories over Austria in
Hohenzollern. During the Roman Empire of German 1866 and France in 1871 resulted in the
18th century Prussia became Nations was dissolved, proclamation of a German Empire on
the greatest rival to Habsburg and Bavaria, Saxony and 18 January 1871.
Austria. In 1740, Friedrich II, Württemberg were given
also known as Frederick the the status of kingdoms. The Second Reich
Great, was crowned King Napoleon defeated Prussia The Second Reich was a federation of 25
of Prussia. Under his rule, Portrait of Frederick the Great as successor to at Jena and the country states, and its first Chancellor was Otto von Fighting on the Barricades in May 1848, a fanciful picture of the
Berlin became a major the throne was occupied by France. Bismarck. The unification of Germany led to a revolution in Berlin by Julius Scholz


1813 Battle 1813 Battle 1834 German 1834 German 1848 The Communist 1871 Proclamation of the
1701 The first king of Prussia is crowned
1740–42 The of the Nations Customs Union Customs Union Manifesto is published German Empire with Prussian 1898 Construction of the
of the Nations
Silesian War at Leipzig (Zollverein) is (Zollverein) is king as Emperor Wilhelm I German navy begins
at Leipzig
1702–14 Germany joins the Leopold Hermann von Boyen, establishedestablished 1848–49 The March
War of Spanish Succession Prussian army general Revolution
1700 1730 1760 17901790 1820 1850 1880 1910
1803 Territorial reform of 1844 Silesian
1710 Meissen porcelain 1756–63 The the German states weavers’ uprising 1870–71 Franco­ 1890 Fall of
factory opened Seven Years’ War Prussian War Bismarck
1806 Dissolution of the Empire
1700 Academy of Sciences 1740 Frederick the Great 1866 Prussian­
founded in Berlin crowned King of Prussia 1814–15 The Congress of Vienna1814–15 The Congress of Vienna Neo-Gothic chalice Austrian War Abandoned, bas-relief
designed by K F Schinkel by Ernst Barlach
058-059_EW_Germany.indd 58 09/10/17 12:54 pm 058-059_EW_Germany.indd 59 09/10/17 12:54 pm
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Date 20th August 2012
Size 125mm x 217mm

THE HIST OR Y OF GERM AN Y  59


The tide turned for
Germany at the Battle
of Leipzig in 1813, when
Russia, Austria and Prussia
defeated the French. After
Napoleon’s final defeat at
Waterloo in 1815, the
Congress of Vienna
established a German
Confederation under Victory Report at the Battle of Leipzig by Johann Peter Krafft (1839)
Austrian control. Its
supreme body was the Bundestag (federal widespread confrontation between the state
parliament), which met at Frankfurt am Main. and the Catholic Church (known as the
The wars of liberation against “Kulturkampf”). The economy, however,
Napoleon had led to a growth in flourished, due to the boom in industry, in
nationalism and democratic particular mining, metallurgy, electrical and
awareness, as well as a desire chemical engineering. This led to the rise of a
for unification. In 1848 the workers’ movement, inspired by the ideas of
March Revolution broke out in Karl Marx. In 1875 the workers’ parties united
Berlin. Its main driving force was and formed the Social Democratic Party of
the urban middle class, but the Germany (SPD). Although the party was
revolt was finally put down by banned between 1878 and 1890, it rapidly
Vase with por trait of Prussian troops in 1849. gained support, and a system of social
Kaiser Wilhelm II In the 1820s and 1830s, welfare for workers was gradually introduced.
Germany underwent rapid At the beginning of the 20th century,
industrialization, and the establishment of Germany was a powerful state with overseas
the Zollverein (customs union) in 1834 colonies. Imperialist ten dencies grew, and
marked the first step towards a united increased tensions in European politics, part i­
Germany. Uniting Germany was the main cularly in the Balkans, led inevitably to war.
goal of the Prussian premier Otto von
Bismarck. Prussia’s victories over Austria in
1866 and France in 1871 resulted in the
proclamation of a German Empire on
18 January 1871.

The Second Reich
The Second Reich was a federation of 25
states, and its first Chancellor was Otto von Fighting on the Barricades in May 1848, a fanciful picture of the
Bismarck. The unification of Germany led to a revolution in Berlin by Julius Scholz


1813 Battle 1834 German 1848 The Communist 1871 Proclamation of the
of the Nations Customs Union Manifesto is published German Empire with Prussian 1898 Construction of the
at Leipzig (Zollverein) is king as Emperor Wilhelm I German navy begins
established 1848–49 The March
Revolution
1790 1820 1850 1880 1910
1844 Silesian
weavers’ uprising 1870–71 Franco­ 1890 Fall of
Prussian War Bismarck
1866 Prussian­
Neo-Gothic chalice Abandoned, bas-relief
1814–15 The Congress of Vienna Austrian War
designed by K F Schinkel by Ernst Barlach



058-059_EW_Germany.indd 59 09/10/17 12:54 pm

60  INTRODUCING GERM AN Y THE HIST OR Y OF GERM AN Y  61

Bismarck’s Germany Ludwig II of Bavaria
The federal states, which
The establishment of a Reich headed by the King of Prussia made up the Reich, enjoyed
complete autonomy. Their
on 18 January 1871 ensured Prussia’s prominent role over the rulers, however, for instance
following decades. The Chancellor was the Prussian Prime King Ludwig II of Bavaria,
Minister Otto von Bismarck. Thanks to large reparations paid patron of Richard Wagner and
by France and a favourable economic situation, the economy builder of “fantastic” castles
flourished throughout the Reich. This in turn fostered the and palaces, had little real
political influence.
development of science and culture. The cities grew rapidly, Germany in 1871
and the housing shortage led to the development of huge The Second German Reich
Mietskasernen, blocks of apartments for renting.
Officer’s helmet
The characteristic spiked
helmet worn by German
Kaiser Wilhelm I soldiers was known as
Mosaics, depicting a procession a Pickelhaube.
of members of the house of
Hohenzollern, decorate the
vestibule of the Kaiser-Wilhelm The Kaiser’s
Gedächtnichskirche (memorial wife, Augusta
church) in Berlin. Victoria

Mourning dress was
worn by the women and
The Kaiser’s Family Taking a black ribbons by the men
Walk in Sanssouci Park as a mark of respect for
“Happy family” portraits such as the two previous Kaisers
this one were often painted for Wilhelm, the heir who had died in 1888 –
propaganda purposes. to the throne the father and grandfather
of Wilhelm II.







The Diplomatic
Corps



The Reichstag
The monumental Reichstag (parliament
building), was built in the centre of the
capital, Berlin, by the architect Paul Wallot.

Otto von Bismarck Kaiser Wilhelm II
Members of Heads of the
Parliament federal states Inauguration of the Reichstag
This vast canvas by Anton von Werner (1893)
shows the opening ceremony for the
Reichstag after the coronation of Kaiser Otto von Bismarck
Wilhelm II on 25 June 1888 in the Kaiser’s Originating from a
Palace in Berlin. The painter depicts the Pomeranian family of
A Steel Mill in Königshütte moment when the Kaiser delivers his speech. Junkers, the Prussian
Germany’s economic progress was achieved Premier and Chancellor
through a high degree of industrialization. of the Reich was one of
Adolf von Menzel’s painting depicts a steel the most prominent
mill in Königshütte, Upper Silesia. political figures of his time.




060-061_EW_Germany.indd 60 09/10/17 12:54 pm 060-061_EW_Germany.indd 61 09/10/17 12:54 pm
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Date 7th January 2013
Size 125mm x 217mm

THE HIST OR Y OF GERM AN Y  61


Ludwig II of Bavaria
The federal states, which
made up the Reich, enjoyed
complete autonomy. Their
rulers, however, for instance
King Ludwig II of Bavaria,
patron of Richard Wagner and
builder of “fantastic” castles
and palaces, had little real
political influence.


Officer’s helmet
The characteristic spiked
helmet worn by German
soldiers was known as
a Pickelhaube.

The Kaiser’s
wife, Augusta
Victoria

Mourning dress was
worn by the women and
black ribbons by the men
as a mark of respect for
the two previous Kaisers
Wilhelm, the heir who had died in 1888 –
to the throne the father and grandfather
of Wilhelm II.







The Diplomatic
Corps









Otto von Bismarck Kaiser Wilhelm II

Inauguration of the Reichstag
This vast canvas by Anton von Werner (1893)
shows the opening ceremony for the
Reichstag after the coronation of Kaiser Otto von Bismarck
Wilhelm II on 25 June 1888 in the Kaiser’s Originating from a
Palace in Berlin. The painter depicts the Pomeranian family of
moment when the Kaiser delivers his speech. Junkers, the Prussian
Premier and Chancellor
of the Reich was one of
the most prominent
political figures of his time.




060-061_EW_Germany.indd 61 09/10/17 12:54 pm

62  INTRODUCING GERM AN Y THE HIST OR Y OF GERM AN Y  63

World War I mainly to Poland, France in April 1933 a boycott of Jewish businesses
When Germany entered World and Lithuania, and she began. Trade unions were banned, as were all
War I in 1914, the Kaiser’s generals was obliged to pay huge parties apart from the Nazis. Books by
hoped for a quick victory, but reparations, undergo partial “impure” authors were burned, and the work
their invasion of France was demilitarization and limit of “degenerate” artists was exhibited as a
halted on the Marne. The war arms production. warning, marking the start of the persecution
dragged on for the next four During the Weimar of artists and scientists, many of whom
years, devastating much of Republic, Germany was decided to emigrate. At the same time, Hitler
Europe, and ending in Germany’s riddled with instability. attempted to present to the world a face of
defeat. The Allied offensive in the The economy collapsed openness and success, particularly with
summer of 1918 forced Germany under the heavy burden the Berlin Olympics of 1936. Germany
to the negotiating table – it also Propaganda poster for Adolf Hitler of reparation payments and broke almost all the demilitarization
led to the November revolution the onset of hyperinflation. conditions of the Versailles Treaty. The growth
in Germany. Within days the state Constant changes of in arms production brought with it an
monarchs were toppled from power, Kaiser government failed to improved economic situation, increasing The centre of Dresden after Allied carpet-bombing
Wilhelm II abdicated, and on 9 November stabilize the political Hitler’s popularity. All his opponents who had
1918 a republic was proclaimed. The form situation, which led to not managed to emigrate were either killed World War II
of government had not been decided, and the rise both of left-wing or sent to concentration camps. The first two years of World War II were
at first the political advantage was held by revolutionaries and of In 1935 the Nuremberg Laws were passed, marked by one victory after another for the
the socialists. But the Workers’ Uprising in right-wing nationalists, which officially sanctioned the persecution German Army, which managed to occupy
Berlin in 1919 was defeated. and to a general of Jews. During the Kristallnacht (crystal half of Europe. Great Britain was the only
dissatisfaction with the Cover of a Socialist magazine night) of 9 November 1938, synagogues country that succeeded in fending off Hitler.
The Weimar Republic country’s status after attacking the book-burning throughout Germany were burned and In 1941 the Wehrmacht occupied large
The Treaty of Versailles of 1919 imposed the humiliating Treaty Jewish shops and homes were looted, swathes of the Soviet Union. Terror and
many unfavourable conditions on Germany. of Versailles. It is perhaps remarkable that at resulting in streets littered with broken genocide were instigated in all occupied
The country lost a great deal of her territory, this time German culture flourished. However, glass. Hitler’s plans to conquer Europe were territories. The decision to exterminate all
this was not sufficient to stave off the realized in March 1938, with Jews in Europe was taken at the Wannsee
political disaster that led to the rise of the “Anschluss” (annexation) Conference in Berlin in January 1942.
the Nazi Party (the NSDAP or National of Austria, then in 1939 Attempts to oppose Hitler in Germany
Socialist German Workers’ Party). German forces occupied were crushed. The course of the war did
Czechoslovakia. not change until 1943, when on 31 January
The Third Reich After obtaining Germany suffered a major defeat in the Battle
Adolf Hitler was appointed peace guarantees of Stalingrad.
Chancellor by President Hin denburg from the USSR, The Allied landings in Normandy and the
on 30 January 1933 and immediately Germany invaded creation of the second front helped bring the
started to get rid of potential Poland on 1 war to an end. When Soviet forces reached
opponents. A fire that burned down September 1939, Berlin in 1945 the city lay in ruins and the
the Reichstag served as a pretext for Pieta, sculpture by Käthe thus starting populace was starving. During five and a half
A Berlin synagogue burning during Kristallnacht, 1938 persecuting the communists, while Kollwitz (1937–8) World War II. years, 55 million people had lost their lives.

1914 World War I 1935 Enactment of 1938 Anschluss with
breaks out 1919 Signing of the 1926 Germany law to build up army Austria; occupation 1 Sep 1939 German invasion of
Treaty of Versailles accepted in of Czechoslovakia Poland; the beginning of World War II
30 Jan 1933 Hitler 30 Jan 1933 Hitler
1921 Adolf Hitler becomes League of Nations appointed Chancellor appointed Chancellor 9/10 Nov 1938
leader of the NSDAP “Kristallnacht” The Enigma Code machine
of the Reichof the Reich
1915 1920 1925 19301930 1935 1940 1945
1926 Hitler 1936 Berlin
Youth set up Olympics 22 Jun 1941 30 Apr 1945
9 Nov 1918 1923 Hitler’s Poster for the Poster for the Germany Hitler commits
Poster of Declaration of Putsch in Munich 1925 Hitler’s Mein Berlin Olympics Berlin Olympics 1935 November laws sanction invades USSR 20 Jan 1942 suicide as
Marlene Dietrich the Republic Kampf is published in 1936in 1936 persecution of Jews Wannsee conference Soviet troops
enter Berlin



062-063_EW_Germany.indd 62 09/10/17 12:54 pm 062-063_EW_Germany.indd 63 09/10/17 12:54 pm
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(Source v1.2)
Date 20th August 2012
Size 125mm x 217mm

THE HIST OR Y OF GERM AN Y  63


in April 1933 a boycott of Jewish businesses
began. Trade unions were banned, as were all
parties apart from the Nazis. Books by
“impure” authors were burned, and the work
of “degenerate” artists was exhibited as a
warning, marking the start of the persecution
of artists and scientists, many of whom
decided to emigrate. At the same time, Hitler
attempted to present to the world a face of
openness and success, particularly with
the Berlin Olympics of 1936. Germany
broke almost all the demilitarization
conditions of the Versailles Treaty. The growth
in arms production brought with it an
improved economic situation, increasing The centre of Dresden after Allied carpet-bombing
Hitler’s popularity. All his opponents who had
not managed to emigrate were either killed World War II
or sent to concentration camps. The first two years of World War II were
In 1935 the Nuremberg Laws were passed, marked by one victory after another for the
which officially sanctioned the persecution German Army, which managed to occupy
of Jews. During the Kristallnacht (crystal half of Europe. Great Britain was the only
night) of 9 November 1938, synagogues country that succeeded in fending off Hitler.
throughout Germany were burned and In 1941 the Wehrmacht occupied large
Jewish shops and homes were looted, swathes of the Soviet Union. Terror and
resulting in streets littered with broken genocide were instigated in all occupied
glass. Hitler’s plans to conquer Europe were territories. The decision to exterminate all
realized in March 1938, with Jews in Europe was taken at the Wannsee
the “Anschluss” (annexation) Conference in Berlin in January 1942.
of Austria, then in 1939 Attempts to oppose Hitler in Germany
German forces occupied were crushed. The course of the war did
Czechoslovakia. not change until 1943, when on 31 January
After obtaining Germany suffered a major defeat in the Battle
peace guarantees of Stalingrad.
from the USSR, The Allied landings in Normandy and the
Germany invaded creation of the second front helped bring the
Poland on 1 war to an end. When Soviet forces reached
September 1939, Berlin in 1945 the city lay in ruins and the
Pieta, sculpture by Käthe thus starting populace was starving. During five and a half
Kollwitz (1937–8) World War II. years, 55 million people had lost their lives.

1935 Enactment of 1938 Anschluss with
law to build up army Austria; occupation 1 Sep 1939 German invasion of
of Czechoslovakia Poland; the beginning of World War II
30 Jan 1933 Hitler
appointed Chancellor 9/10 Nov 1938 The Enigma Code machine
of the Reich “Kristallnacht”
1930 1935 1940 1945
1936 Berlin
Olympics 22 Jun 1941 30 Apr 1945
Poster for the Germany Hitler commits
Berlin Olympics 1935 November laws sanction invades USSR 20 Jan 1942 suicide as
in 1936 persecution of Jews Wannsee conference Soviet troops
enter Berlin




062-063_EW_Germany.indd 63 09/10/17 12:54 pm

64  INTRODUCING GERM AN Y THE HIST OR Y OF GERM AN Y  65


the block ade was that it would happen, but the country
aband oned. On was officially reu nified on 3 October 1990.
23 May 1949 the Since then, Ger many has been under going
Federal Republic a process of integration.
(Bundesrepublik)
of Germany was Germany Today
established in the Since reunification Germany has had
three western Germany 1949–90 an increasingly significant footing in the
Nazi war criminals on trial at Nuremberg zones, and on 7 Federal Republic Reunification ceremony outside the Reichstag in Berlin in 1990 international political and economic sphere
DDR
October 1949 the – especially within Europe. German troops
The Aftermath of World War II German Democratic Republic (DDR) was set apparatus was set up in East Germany to take part in peacekeeping operations
Germany’s unconditional surrender was signed up in the Soviet zone. West Berlin became watch over citizens’ activities by the infamous throughout the world, while its economy
on 8 May 1945, ending the bloodiest war in an enclave inside East Germany. Stasi secret police. has remained relatively stable throughout
human history. Peace negotiations began The first Chancellor of the Federal Republic the global financial crises. Its manufacturing
which were to shape the new face of Europe Germany Divided of Germany, Konrad Adenauer, had Germany’s sectors are highly regarded, producing and
for decades to come. In fact, discussions on The German Democratic Republic was integration into Western Europe as his main exporting a range of goods, from luxury
Germany’s future had already taken place at democratic only in name. It became one of objective. Thanks to aid under the Marshall cars to solar power technology, worldwide.
the Tehran and Yalta Conferences, where the the satellites of the Soviet Union, and as the Plan, the economy rapidly recovered. Willy The country also enjoys a prominent
leaders of the Big Three Powers met. But it westernmost outpost of the Eastern Bloc it Brandt, first elected as Chancellor in 1969, position in the European Union, with
was not until the Potsdam Conference that was subject to great restrictions. Attempted pursued a policy of openness to the East, and Federal Chancellor Angela Merkel
the terms were finally agreed. protests, such as the Workers’ Uprising of recognized the German Democratic Republic. considered by many to be its de facto
Germany lost large parts of its territory to 17 June 1953 in Berlin, were ruthlessly sup­ leader. Following the rise of the far right
the east, displacing the German population pressed. For many people the only solution Reunification populism throughout the West, some
there. It was decided to demilitarize Germany. was to leave the country. As the exodus of German reunification was made possible by consider Germany to be ‘‘the leader of
The four Allied powers – the USA, the USSR, skilled workers to the West continued, on a number of political events, in particular the free world’.
Britain and France – divided Germany into 13 August 1961 a wall with barbed wire was those going on in Eastern Europe. The Soviet Germany has also enjoyed a surge in
zones of occupation which they would rule built to contain them. Many attempts to cross premier Gorbachev’s policy of glasnost led tourism, becoming one of Europe’s most
until demo cratic structures were in place. the frontier ended in death. A highly efficient to the loosening of political constraints popular travel destinations with more than
The main perpetrators of war crimes were through out the Eastern Bloc. Democratic a billion international visitors every year.
tried in Nuremberg and sentenced to changes in Poland set off a chain reaction.
death. Unfortunately, tensions increased In 1989, people started to flee the German
between the Western powers and the Soviet Democratic Republic en masse via its
Union, rapidly escalating in the “Cold War”, embassy in Prague and across the Austro-
which was largely played out in occupied Hungarian border. Then, on 9 November
Germany. In 1948 the three western zones 1989, the Berlin Wall fell due to protests
introduced a new currency, which led the in the East, and East Ger mans were free
Soviets to blockade the western part of to leave. When, only three weeks later,
Berlin. Thanks to the Berlin Airlift, which Chancellor Helmut Kohl presented a ten-point
supplied the pop ulation with food and fuel, Graffiti-covered section of the Berlin Wall plan for German reunification, few believed Angela Merkel campaigning during the 2009 European General Elections

13 Aug 1961 Building 1973 West and East Germany Helmut Kohl and Richard Helmut Kohl and Richard 2002 Floods 2011 Germany hosts the FIFA
4–11 Feb 1945 Yalta Conference of the Berlin Wall accepted into UN von Weizsäcker at the von Weizsäcker at the cause havoc Women’s World Cup
8 May Germany capitulates reunification ceremonyreunification ceremony across
1982 Helmut Kohl becomes 3 Oct 1990 2006 Germany 2013 Devastating floods in Germany
17 Jun 1953 Workers’ 1968 Student riots Reunification Germany hosts FIFA and Eastern Europe are said to be the
uprising in East Berlin German Chancellor worst in over 400 years
of Germany World Cup
1945 1950 1955 1960 1965 1970 1975 19801980 19851985 1990 1995 2000 2005 2010 2015 2020
1955 Federal Republic 1972 Official 1994 2000 2005 Reopening of Dresden’s 2015 The number of refugees to
24 Jun 1948 1949 Federal and German relations 8 Nov 1989 8 Nov 1989 Withdrawal of 1998 Gerhard Expo 2000 reconstructed Frauenkirche, a have arrived in Germany from
Blockade of West Republic and Democratic Republic established Fall of the Fall of the last Russian Schröder World Fair symbol of East-West efforts the Middle East hits 1.5 million.
Berlin starts DDR established gain sovereignty between East and Berlin WallBerlin Wall military units becomes in Hanover
The Trabant, a trademark
West Germany; The Trabant, a trademark from Berlin Chancellor 2005 Angela Merkel is the first female chancellor
Konrad Adenauer Munich Olympics of East German industry in a “Grand Coalition” government
of East German industry

064-065_EW_Germany.indd 64 09/10/17 12:46 pm 064-065_EW_Germany.indd 65 09/10/17 12:46 pm

THE HIST OR Y OF GERM AN Y  65


that it would happen, but the country
was officially reu nified on 3 October 1990.
Since then, Ger many has been under going
a process of integration.
Germany Today
Since reunification Germany has had
an increasingly significant footing in the
Reunification ceremony outside the Reichstag in Berlin in 1990 international political and economic sphere
– especially within Europe. German troops
apparatus was set up in East Germany to take part in peacekeeping operations
watch over citizens’ activities by the infamous throughout the world, while its economy
Stasi secret police. has remained relatively stable throughout
The first Chancellor of the Federal Republic the global financial crises. Its manufacturing
of Germany, Konrad Adenauer, had Germany’s sectors are highly regarded, producing and
integration into Western Europe as his main exporting a range of goods, from luxury
objective. Thanks to aid under the Marshall cars to solar power technology, worldwide.
Plan, the economy rapidly recovered. Willy The country also enjoys a prominent
Brandt, first elected as Chancellor in 1969, position in the European Union, with
pursued a policy of openness to the East, and Federal Chancellor Angela Merkel
recognized the German Democratic Republic. considered by many to be its de facto
leader. Following the rise of the far right
Reunification populism throughout the West, some
German reunification was made possible by consider Germany to be ‘‘the leader of
a number of political events, in particular the free world’.
those going on in Eastern Europe. The Soviet Germany has also enjoyed a surge in
premier Gorbachev’s policy of glasnost led tourism, becoming one of Europe’s most
to the loosening of political constraints popular travel destinations with more than
through out the Eastern Bloc. Democratic a billion international visitors every year.
changes in Poland set off a chain reaction.
In 1989, people started to flee the German
Democratic Republic en masse via its
embassy in Prague and across the Austro-
Hungarian border. Then, on 9 November
1989, the Berlin Wall fell due to protests
in the East, and East Ger mans were free
to leave. When, only three weeks later,
Chancellor Helmut Kohl presented a ten-point
plan for German reunification, few believed Angela Merkel campaigning during the 2009 European General Elections

Helmut Kohl and Richard 2011 Germany hosts the FIFA
von Weizsäcker at the 2002 Floods Women’s World Cup
reunification ceremony cause havoc
3 Oct 1990 across 2006 Germany 2013 Devastating floods in Germany
Reunification Germany hosts FIFA and Eastern Europe are said to be the
of Germany World Cup worst in over 400 years
1980 1985 1990 1995 2000 2005 2010 2015 2020
1994 2000 2005 Reopening of Dresden’s 2015 The number of refugees to
8 Nov 1989 Withdrawal of 1998 Gerhard Expo 2000 reconstructed Frauenkirche, a have arrived in Germany from
Fall of the last Russian Schröder World Fair symbol of East-West efforts the Middle East hits 1.5 million.
Berlin Wall military units becomes in Hanover
The Trabant, a trademark from Berlin Chancellor 2005 Angela Merkel is the first female chancellor
of East German industry in a “Grand Coalition” government




064-065_EW_Germany.indd 65 09/10/17 12:46 pm

BERLIN


AREA BY AREA





Berlin at a Glance 68–69
Eastern Centre 70–85
Western Centre 86–97

Further Afield 98–109
Shopping in Berlin 110–111
Entertainment in Berlin 112–117
Berlin Street Finder 118–123











































066-067_EW_Germany.indd 66 09/10/17 12:54 pm 066-067_EW_Germany.indd 67 09/10/17 12:54 pm
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Date 15th November 2012
Size 125mm x 217mm

BERLIN


AREA BY AREA





Berlin at a Glance 68–69
Eastern Centre 70–85
Western Centre 86–97

Further Afield 98–109
Shopping in Berlin 110–111
Entertainment in Berlin 112–117
Berlin Street Finder 118–123











































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68  BERLIN AREA B Y AREA BERLIN A T A GLANCE  69

Berlin at a Glance

The following pages provide a useful guide to places Berlin
of interest both within the centre of Berlin and on the 0 metres 400
outskirts of the city, including historic monuments such 0 yards 400
as the Nikolaikirche (see p84) and Brandenburger Tor (see p73),
museums, modern develop ments, such as the Potsdamer
Platz, as well as places of recreation and amusement, such as The Berlin Wall divided the East from the West for over 25 years. While
Schloßpark (see pp100–101). In the guide, we have divided LOCATOR MAP not much remains of the wall, the little that does, such as the Berliner
central Berlin into two parts (eastern centre and western See Street Finder pp118–23 Mauer Memorial, the East Side Gallery and the remnants found along
centre); these do not correspond with the city’s former the Berlin Wall Trail (Mauerweg), are hugely significant (see p64).
partition into East and West Berlin.









L U I S E N S T R A S S E
S p r e e e L U I S E N S T R A S S E F R I E D R I C H - S T R A S S E
S p r e
U N T E R D E N L I N D E SCHLOSS-SCHLOSS- S p r e e The Reichstag is a vast, Neo-
U N T E R D E N L I N D E N N
F R I E D R I C H - S T R A S S E
PLATZPLATZ Renaissance building, designed
S T R A S S E D E S 1 7 J U N I I in 1884 by Paul Wallot. It now
S p r e e
S T R A S S E D E S 1 7 J U N
The Tiergarten was GROSSERGROSSER features an elliptical dome,
STERNSTERN
once a royal hunting WESTERN CENTREWESTERN CENTRE EASTERN CENTREEASTERN CENTRE which was designed in the
estate but, after 1818, (See pp86–97)(See pp86–97) (See pp70–85)(See pp70–85) 1990s by Sir Norman Foster
it was converted into a (see p97).
landscaped park by Peter
L E I P Z I G E R S T R A S S
Joseph Lenné (see p91) POTSDAMER-POTSDAMER- L E I P Z I G E R S T R A S S E E
with lakes and streams. Landwehrkana PLATZPLATZ
Landwehrkana l l
K O C H S T R A S S
K O C H S T R A S S E E
K U R F Ü R S T E N S T
KURFÜRSTENDAMM
KURFÜRSTENDAMM K U R F Ü R S T E N S T R R S T R E S E M A N N S T R A S S E
S T R E S E M A N N S T R A S S E
Landwe h r kanal al
The Gemäldegalerie (see pp94–5) Landwe h r kan
houses an exceptional collection
of European masters, including
Hans Holbein’s Portrait The imposing Neo-Classical
of George Gisze (1532). Brandenburg Gate stands at the end of
Unter den Linden. It is crowned with a 6-m
(20-ft) high sculpture of the Roman
Quadriga driven by Victoria, the goddess
of victory (see p73).
The Kaiser-Wilhelm-
Gedächtnis-Kirche was
almost totally destroyed by
bombs during World War II. The Jüdisches Museum (Jewish Museum)
A new annexe was built in is housed in a building designed by Daniel
1963 to a design by Egon Libeskind. It features a symbolic projection
Eiermann (see p90). of a broken Star of David (see p84).
Aerial view of Berlin



068-069_EW_Germany.indd 68 09/10/17 12:46 pm 068-069_EW_Germany.indd 69 09/10/17 12:46 pm

BERLIN A T A GLANCE  69






0 metres 400
0 yards 400


The Berlin Wall divided the East from the West for over 25 years. While
not much remains of the wall, the little that does, such as the Berliner
Mauer Memorial, the East Side Gallery and the remnants found along
the Berlin Wall Trail (Mauerweg), are hugely significant (see p64).












S p r e e L U I S E N S T R A S S E F R I E D R I C H - S T R A S S E
U N T E R D E N L I N D E N SCHLOSS- S p r e e The Reichstag is a vast, Neo-
PLATZ Renaissance building, designed
S T R A S S E D E S 1 7 J U N I in 1884 by Paul Wallot. It now
GROSSER features an elliptical dome,
STERN
WESTERN CENTRE EASTERN CENTRE which was designed in the
(See pp86–97) (See pp70–85) 1990s by Sir Norman Foster
(see p97).
POTSDAMER- L E I P Z I G E R S T R A S S E
PLATZ
Landwehrkana l
K O C H S T R A S S E

KURFÜRSTENDAMM K U R F Ü R S T E N S T R S T R E S E M A N N S T R A S S E





Landwe h r kanal


The imposing Neo-Classical
Brandenburg Gate stands at the end of
Unter den Linden. It is crowned with a 6-m
(20-ft) high sculpture of the Roman
Quadriga driven by Victoria, the goddess
of victory (see p73).


The Jüdisches Museum (Jewish Museum)
is housed in a building designed by Daniel
Libeskind. It features a symbolic projection
of a broken Star of David (see p84).




068-069_EW_Germany.indd 69 09/10/17 12:46 pm

BERLIN AREA B Y AREA  71

EASTERN CENTRE


This part of Berlin is the historic centre of This part of the city features most of its
the city, and includes the Mitte district and historic buildings, which are located mainly
parts of Kreuzberg. Its beginnings date back along Unter den Linden. It also includes
to the 13th century when two settlements the Museumsinsel, the location of the vast
were established on the banks of the river Berliner Dom and the impressive collection
Spree. One was the former Cölln, situated of museums that gives the island its name.
on an island, and the other its twin These include the Pergamonmuseum.
settlement, Berlin. Berlin’s first church, During the city’s partition, Mitte belonged to
the Nikolaikirche, survives to this day. East Berlin while Kreuzberg was in West Berlin.

Sights at a Glance
Museums and Galleries Historic Buildings and Churches
8 Zeughaus Monuments 4 St Hedwigs-Kathedrale
r DDR Museum 1 Brandenburger Tor 9 Französischer Dom
y Altes Museum 2 Holocaust Denkmal q Deutscher Dom
u Neues Museum 6 Humboldt-Universität t Berliner Dom
i Alte Nationalgalerie 7 Neue Wache a Marienkirche
o Pergamonmuseum 0 Konzerthaus
p Bode-Museum w Schloßbrücke
h Märkisches Museum s Rotes Rathaus
j Checkpoint Charlie f Fernsehturm
k Jüdisches Museum
l Topographie des Terrors
z Deutsches Technikmuseum Oranienburger
Strassee
Berlin MONBIJOUPARK Bahnhof
Hackescher Alexanderplatz
Spree
Streets and Squares Markt
3 Bebelplatz Friedrich- AM KUPFERGRABEN Alexanderplatz
5 Unter den Linden strasse BODESTR. KARL-LIEBKNECHT-STR.
GEORGENSTR.
e Schloßplatz DOROTHEENSTR. RATHAUSSTR.
d Alexanderplatz DOROTHEENSTRASSE SPANDAUER STR GRUNERSTRASS E
g Nikolaiviertel F R I E D R I C H - S
Brandenburger
Tor UNTER DEN LINDEN Klosterstraße
PARISER WERDERSTR.
PLATZ Strasse MÜHLENDAMM
BEHRENSTR FRANZÖSISCHE STRASSE BREITE STR. R OL A N D UFE R
WERDERSCHER
MARKT
JÄGERSTR. Hausvogteiplatz MÄRKISCHES UFER
Französische T R A S S E
EBERTSTRASSE Mohrenstrasse MOHRENSTRASSE MARKGRAFENSTR. NIEDERWALLSTR. GERTRAUDENSTR Märkisches
TAUBENSTR.
WILHEMSTRASSE
GLINKASTRASSE
MAUERSTRASSE
Museum
WALLSTRASSE
KRONENSTR
LEIPZIGER STRASSE
Stadtmitte
VOSSTRASSE
Spittelmarkt
LEIPZIGER STRASSE K R A U S E N S T R A S S E
Potsdamer MAUERSTR
Platz SCHÜTZENSTRASSE
ZIMMERSTRASSE
NIEDERKIRCHNER STR
KÖTHENER STR Kochstrasse L I N D E N S T R A S S E 0 metres 400
FRIEDRICHSTRASSE
STRESEMANNSTRASSE
C H A R LO T T E N S T R A S S E
Mendelssohn- DESSAUER STR MARK GRAFENSTR. 0 yards 400
Bartholdy-Park STRES FRIEDRICHSTRASSE
SCHÖNEBERGER STR.
F LOT TWELLST R AS S E TEMPELHOFER UFER Anhalter- EMANNSTRASSE ALTE JAKOBSTRASSE
Bahnhof
MÖCKERNSTR.
W I L H E L M S T R A S S E
PLATZ
Gleisdreieck Möckernbrücke MEHRING- LINDENSTR
Hallesches
Tor
GITSCHINER STR
HALLESCHES UFER
WATERLOO-UFER
See also Street Finder
pp118–23
The Brandenburg Gate at twilight For map symbols see back flap
070-071_EW_Germany.indd 70 09/10/17 12:54 pm 070-071_EW_Germany.indd 71 09/10/17 12:54 pm
Eyewitness Travel LAYERS PRINTED:
Single-page city intros template “UK” LAYER
(Source v1.3)
Date 5th December 2012
Size 125mm x 217mm

BERLIN AREA B Y AREA  71

EASTERN CENTRE


This part of Berlin is the historic centre of This part of the city features most of its
the city, and includes the Mitte district and historic buildings, which are located mainly
parts of Kreuzberg. Its beginnings date back along Unter den Linden. It also includes
to the 13th century when two settlements the Museumsinsel, the location of the vast
were established on the banks of the river Berliner Dom and the impressive collection
Spree. One was the former Cölln, situated of museums that gives the island its name.
on an island, and the other its twin These include the Pergamonmuseum.
settlement, Berlin. Berlin’s first church, During the city’s partition, Mitte belonged to
the Nikolaikirche, survives to this day. East Berlin while Kreuzberg was in West Berlin.

Sights at a Glance
Museums and Galleries Historic Buildings and Churches
8 Zeughaus Monuments 4 St Hedwigs-Kathedrale
r DDR Museum 1 Brandenburger Tor 9 Französischer Dom
y Altes Museum 2 Holocaust Denkmal q Deutscher Dom
u Neues Museum 6 Humboldt-Universität t Berliner Dom
i Alte Nationalgalerie 7 Neue Wache a Marienkirche
o Pergamonmuseum 0 Konzerthaus
p Bode-Museum w Schloßbrücke
h Märkisches Museum s Rotes Rathaus
j Checkpoint Charlie f Fernsehturm
k Jüdisches Museum
l Topographie des Terrors
z Deutsches Technikmuseum Oranienburger
Strassee
Berlin MONBIJOUPARK Bahnhof
Hackescher Alexanderplatz
Spree
Streets and Squares Markt
3 Bebelplatz Friedrich- AM KUPFERGRABEN Alexanderplatz
5 Unter den Linden strasse BODESTR. KARL-LIEBKNECHT-STR.
GEORGENSTR.
e Schloßplatz DOROTHEENSTR. RATHAUSSTR.
d Alexanderplatz DOROTHEENSTRASSE SPANDAUER STR GRUNERSTRASS E
g Nikolaiviertel F R I E D R I C H - S
Brandenburger
Tor UNTER DEN LINDEN Klosterstraße
PARISER WERDERSTR.
PLATZ Strasse MÜHLENDAMM
BEHRENSTR FRANZÖSISCHE STRASSE BREITE STR. R OL A N D UFE R
WERDERSCHER
MARKT
JÄGERSTR. Hausvogteiplatz MÄRKISCHES UFER
Französische T R A S S E
EBERTSTRASSE Mohrenstrasse MOHRENSTRASSE MARKGRAFENSTR. NIEDERWALLSTR. GERTRAUDENSTR Märkisches
TAUBENSTR.
WILHEMSTRASSE
GLINKASTRASSE
MAUERSTRASSE
Museum
WALLSTRASSE
KRONENSTR
LEIPZIGER STRASSE
Stadtmitte
VOSSTRASSE
Spittelmarkt
LEIPZIGER STRASSE K R A U S E N S T R A S S E
Potsdamer MAUERSTR
Platz SCHÜTZENSTRASSE
ZIMMERSTRASSE
NIEDERKIRCHNER STR
KÖTHENER STR Kochstrasse L I N D E N S T R A S S E 0 metres 400
FRIEDRICHSTRASSE
STRESEMANNSTRASSE
C H A R LO T T E N S T R A S S E
Mendelssohn- DESSAUER STR M ARK GRA FENSTR. 0 yards 400
Bartholdy-Park STRES FRIEDRICHSTRASSE
SCHÖNEBERGER STR.
F LOT TWELLST R AS S E TEMPELHOFER UFER Anhalter- EMANNSTRASSE ALTE JAKOBSTRASSE
Bahnhof
MÖCKERNSTR.
W I L H E L M S T R A S S E
PLATZ
Gleisdreieck Möckernbrücke MEHRING- LINDENSTR
Hallesches
Tor
GITSCHINER STR
HALLESCHES UFER
WATERLOO-UFER
See also Street Finder
pp118–23
The Brandenburg Gate at twilight For map symbols see back flap
070-071_EW_Germany.indd 71 09/10/17 12:54 pm

72  BERLIN AREA B Y AREA EASTERN CENTRE  73

Street-by-Street: Around Bebelplatz WESTERN 1 Brandenburger
CENTRE
The section of Unter den Linden between Tor
Brandenburg Gate
Schloßbrücke and Friedrichstrasse is one of the
most attractive areas in central Berlin. As well as EASTERN Pariser Platz. Map 4 A2.  & 
Brandenburger Tor. @ 100. Museum:
some magnificent Baroque and Neo-Classical CENTRE Open 10am–6pm Tues–Sun.
buildings, many of them designed by famous
architects, there are also some restored palaces 8 . Zeughaus (Deutsches The Brandenburg Gate is the
that are now used as public buildings. Of particular Historisches Museum) Locator Map quintessential symbol of Berlin.
interest is the beautiful Baroque building of the Minerva, goddess of wisdom, See Street Finder maps 1, 4 & 5. A magnificent Neo-Classical
Zeughaus (the former Arsenal), which now houses decorates this beautiful structure, based on the entrance
to the Acropolis, it was built
the German History Museum. Baroque building,
which has a wing between 1788 and 1791, with its
designed by I M Pei. sculptured decorations added in
6 Humboldt University 1795. A pair of pavilions, once
Equestrian statue of King The university courtyard used by guards and customs
Friedrich II of Prussia teems with life all year
This monument was erected round. Second-hand book- officers, frames its powerful Doric
in 1851 to mark the 111th sellers set up their stalls in colonnade and entab lature. The
anniversary of Friedrich II’s front of the gate. bas-reliefs depict scenes from
ascension to the Prussian throne. Greek mythology and the whole
structure is crowned by Johann
Gottfried Schadow’s famous
sculpture, Quadriga. In 1806,
during the French occupation,
Napoleon had the sculpture
7 . Neue Wache dismantled and taken to Paris.
U
N
I Now serving as a memorial
to all victims of war and
V On its triumphal return in 1814, it
E was declared a symbol of victory,
dictatorship, this monument
R
S and the goddess received a staff
I was designed by Karl
Friedrich Schinkel. bearing the Prussian eagle and
0 metres 100 C T Ä T
an iron cross with a laurel wreath.
H
0 yards 100 A S S Throughout its history, the gate
has witnessed many of Berlin’s
R
T
R
important events. Located in
A
L O T
U N T E R D E N L I N D E N
T S S East Berlin, the gate was restored
E E between 1956 and 1958, when
N
S
T the damaged Quadriga was
R H I N T E R rebuilt in West Berlin. Over the
A
S Rotes next 40 years it watched over the
S
E Rathaus divided city, until 1989, when the
first section of the Berlin Wall fell.
D E R
5 Unter den BEBEL– K In 2016 a museum opened
Linden PL A TZ next to the gate, offering an
Replanted with four impressive multimedia excursion
rows of lime trees in A T H , K I R C H E through Berlin’s history.
1946, this is one of
the most famous
streets in Berlin.
Branden burg
Gate
Staatsoper Unter
den Linden
Altes Palais
Staatsbibliothek 4 St-Hedwigs-Kathedrale
Designed by Ernst von Ihne and Bas-reliefs (1837) by Kronprinzenpalais
constructed between 1903 and 1914, Key Theodore Wilhelm A magnificent portal from the
this impressive building houses part Achtermann adorn the dismantled Bauakademie building Frieze and sculpture, Quadriga, on the
of the State Library collection. Suggested route cathedral’s supports. can be found at the rear of the palace. Brandenburg Gate
For hotels and restaurants in this area see pp492–3 and pp510–11
072-073_EW_Germany.indd 72 09/10/17 12:54 pm 072-073_EW_Germany.indd 73 09/10/17 12:54 pm
Eyewitness Travel LAYERS PRINTED:
Starsight template “UK” LAYER
(Source v2.5)
Date 6th February2013
Size 125mm x 217mm

EASTERN CENTRE  73

1 Brandenburger
WESTERN
Tor
CENTRE
Brandenburg Gate
Pariser Platz. Map 4 A2.  & 
EASTERN
CENTRE Brandenburger Tor. @ 100. Museum:
Open 10am–6pm Tues–Sun.
8 . Zeughaus (Deutsches The Brandenburg Gate is the
Historisches Museum) Locator Map quintessential symbol of Berlin.
Minerva, goddess of wisdom, See Street Finder maps 1, 4 & 5. A magnificent Neo-Classical
decorates this beautiful structure, based on the entrance
Baroque building, to the Acropolis, it was built
which has a wing between 1788 and 1791, with its
designed by I M Pei. sculptured decorations added in
1795. A pair of pavilions, once
used by guards and customs
officers, frames its powerful Doric
colonnade and entab lature. The
bas-reliefs depict scenes from
Greek mythology and the whole
structure is crowned by Johann
Gottfried Schadow’s famous
sculpture, Quadriga. In 1806,
during the French occupation,
Napoleon had the sculpture
7 . Neue Wache dismantled and taken to Paris.
Now serving as a memorial On its triumphal return in 1814, it
to all victims of war and
dictatorship, this monument was declared a symbol of victory,
was designed by Karl and the goddess received a staff
Friedrich Schinkel. bearing the Prussian eagle and
an iron cross with a laurel wreath.
Throughout its history, the gate
has witnessed many of Berlin’s
important events. Located in
East Berlin, the gate was restored
between 1956 and 1958, when
the damaged Quadriga was
rebuilt in West Berlin. Over the
Rotes next 40 years it watched over the
H I N T E R
Rathaus divided city, until 1989, when the
first section of the Berlin Wall fell.
D E R
K In 2016 a museum opened
next to the gate, offering an
impressive multimedia excursion
through Berlin’s history.
A T H , K I R C H E



Staatsoper Unter
den Linden




4 St-Hedwigs-Kathedrale
Bas-reliefs (1837) by Kronprinzenpalais
Theodore Wilhelm A magnificent portal from the
Achtermann adorn the dismantled Bauakademie building Frieze and sculpture, Quadriga, on the
cathedral’s supports. can be found at the rear of the palace. Brandenburg Gate




072-073_EW_Germany.indd 73 09/10/17 12:54 pm

74  BERLIN AREA B Y AREA EASTERN CENTRE  75


2 Holocaust rededicated in 1993 to the
Denkmal memory of all victims of war
and dictatorship. Inside is an
Map 4 A2.  &  Brandenburger eternal flame and a granite slab
Tor. @ 100, 200, M85. over the ashes of an unknown
soldier, a resistance fighter and
Germany’s national Holocaust a concentration camp prisoner.
memorial was designed by In the roof opening is a copy
American architect Peter of the sculpture Mother with
Eisenman. Completed in 2005, it her Dead Son, by Berlin artist
is made up of a large field with Käthe Kollwitz.
dark grey steles of various heights
that symbolize the six million 8 Zeughaus
Jews and others murdered The 19th-century Neue Wache, now dedicated to the victims of war and dictatorship
by the Nazis in concentration Unter den Linden 2. Map 5 D2.
camps between 1933 and 1945. prestigious buildings, which 7 Neue Wache Tel 20 30 40.  Hackescher Markt.
Visitors can walk their own have been restored in the years @ 100, 200, TXL. New wing:
route, and there is an infor ma tion following World War II. Unter den Linden 4. Map 4 C2. Open 10am–6pm daily.
centre underneath the memorial. Since the reunification of  Hackescher Markt. @ 100, 200,
There are also memorials in Germany in 1990, Unter den TXL. Open 10am–6pm daily. This former arsenal was built in
nearby Tiergarten to murdered The iconic Brandenburger Tor is one of Germany’s national symbols. Linden has acquired several the Baroque style in 1706 under
homosexuals and murdered cafés and restaurants, as well as Designed by Karl Friedrich the guidance of Johann Arnold
Sinti and Roma people. 4 St-Hedwigs- 5 Unter den Linden many smart shops. The street Schinkel and built between Nering, Martin Grünberg,
has also become the venue 1816 and 1818, this monument Andreas Schlüter and Jean de
Kathedrale Map 1 F4, 4 A2, B2, C2, 5 D2.  & 
St Hedwig’s Cathedral Brandenburger Tor. @ 100, 200, TXL. for interesting outdoor events. is considered to be one of Bodt. A magnificent structure, its
It is usually crowded with the finest examples of Neo- wings flank an inner courtyard
Bebelplatz. Map 4 C2. Tel (030) 203 48 One of the most famous streets tourists and students browsing Classical architecture in Berlin. and its exterior is decorated with
10.  &  Friedrichstraße. @ 100, in Berlin, Unter den Linden the bookstalls around the The front of the monument is Schlüter’s sculptures, including
147, 200, TXL. Open 10am–5pm starts at Schloßplatz and runs Humboldt Universität and the dominated by a huge Doric masks of dying warriors. Home
Mon–Fri, 10am–4:30pm Sat,1pm–5pm down to Pariser Platz and the Staats bibliothek (State Library). portico with a frieze made up to the Museum für Deutsche
Sun & holy days. Brandenburg Gate. It was of bas-reliefs depicting Geschichte of the GDR since
once the route to the royal 6 Humboldt goddesses of victory. 1952, it became the Deutsches
This huge church is the Cath­ hunting grounds, which In 1930–31 the building Historisches Museum (DHM) in
olic Cathedral of the Roman were later transformed into Universität was turned into a monument 1990, housing an extensive
Archdiocese of Berlin. The initial the Tiergarten. Humboldt University to soldiers killed in World War I. exhibition on German history. A
design was similar to the Roman In the 17th century, the street Unter den Linden 6. Map 4 C2.  & Following its restoration in modern glass and steel building
Pantheon. Construction began was planted with lime trees,  Friedrichstraße. @ 100, 200, TXL. 1960, Neue Wache became designed by architect I M Pei
in 1747, although work to which it owes its name. the Memorial to the Victims of was added in 2003 and hosts a
Relief on the façade of the Staats oper continued on and off until 1887. Although the original trees The university building was Fascism and Militarism. It was range of temporary exhibits.
(Opera House), Bebelplatz It was damaged during World were removed around 1658, constructed in 1748–1766,
War II and rebuilt between 1952 four rows of limes were originally as a residence for
3 Bebelplatz and 1963. The building received planted in 1820. Prince Heinrich of Prussia. The
a reinforced concrete dome During the 18th century, overall design of the palace, with
Map 4 C2.  &  Friedrichstraße.
@ 100, 200, TXL. and its interior was refurbished Unter den Linden became the its main block and the courtyard
in a modern style. The crypt main street of the westward­ enclosed within two wings, has
Bebelplatz was intended to be contains bishops’ tombs and growing city and gradually been extended many times. Two
the focal point of the Forum a 16th­century Madonna. came to be lined with marble statues by Paul Otto
Fridericianum – an area designed (1883) stand at the entrance;
to mirror the grandeur of these represent Wilhelm and
ancient Rome. Although the Wilhelm and Alexander Alexander von Humboldt.
plans were only partly imple­ von Humboldt Many famous scientists
mented, many important The Humboldt brothers rank among the have worked here, including
buildings were eventually most distinguished Berlin citizens. Wilhelm physicians Rudolf Virchow and
erected here. (1767–1835) was a lawyer and politician Robert Koch and physicists Max
In 1933, the square was on whose initiative the Berlin University Planck and Albert Einstein.
the scene of the infamous (later renamed Humboldt University) Graduates include Heinrich Heine,
book­burning act organized was founded in 1810. At the university, Karl Marx and Friedrich Engels.
by the Nazis. Some 25,000 he conducted studies in comparative After World War II, the
books, written by authors and historical linguistics. His brother university was in the Russian
considered to be enemies of Alexander (1769–1859), a professor sector and the difficulties
the Third Reich, were burned. at the university, researched natural encountered by the students
Today, a monument in the science, including meteorology, of the western zone led to the
oceanography and agricultural science.
square commemorates this Alexander von Humboldt establishment in 1948 of the
dramatic event. Freie Universität. Part of the façade of the Zeughaus on Unter den Linden
For hotels and restaurants in this area see pp492–3 and pp510–11


074-075_EW_Germany.indd 74 09/10/17 12:46 pm 074-075_EW_Germany.indd 75 09/10/17 12:46 pm

EASTERN CENTRE  75


rededicated in 1993 to the
memory of all victims of war
and dictatorship. Inside is an
eternal flame and a granite slab
over the ashes of an unknown
soldier, a resistance fighter and
a concentration camp prisoner.
In the roof opening is a copy
of the sculpture Mother with
her Dead Son, by Berlin artist
Käthe Kollwitz.

8 Zeughaus
The 19th-century Neue Wache, now dedicated to the victims of war and dictatorship
Unter den Linden 2. Map 5 D2.
prestigious buildings, which 7 Neue Wache Tel 20 30 40.  Hackescher Markt.
have been restored in the years @ 100, 200, TXL. New wing:
following World War II. Unter den Linden 4. Map 4 C2. Open 10am–6pm daily.
Since the reunification of  Hackescher Markt. @ 100, 200,
Germany in 1990, Unter den TXL. Open 10am–6pm daily. This former arsenal was built in
Linden has acquired several the Baroque style in 1706 under
cafés and restaurants, as well as Designed by Karl Friedrich the guidance of Johann Arnold
many smart shops. The street Schinkel and built between Nering, Martin Grünberg,
has also become the venue 1816 and 1818, this monument Andreas Schlüter and Jean de
for interesting outdoor events. is considered to be one of Bodt. A magnificent structure, its
It is usually crowded with the finest examples of Neo- wings flank an inner courtyard
tourists and students browsing Classical architecture in Berlin. and its exterior is decorated with
the bookstalls around the The front of the monument is Schlüter’s sculptures, including
Humboldt Universität and the dominated by a huge Doric masks of dying warriors. Home
Staats bibliothek (State Library). portico with a frieze made up to the Museum für Deutsche
of bas-reliefs depicting Geschichte of the GDR since
6 Humboldt goddesses of victory. 1952, it became the Deutsches
In 1930–31 the building Historisches Museum (DHM) in
Universität was turned into a monument 1990, housing an extensive
Humboldt University to soldiers killed in World War I. exhibition on German history. A
Unter den Linden 6. Map 4 C2.  & Following its restoration in modern glass and steel building
 Friedrichstraße. @ 100, 200, TXL. 1960, Neue Wache became designed by architect I M Pei
the Memorial to the Victims of was added in 2003 and hosts a
The university building was Fascism and Militarism. It was range of temporary exhibits.
constructed in 1748–1766,
originally as a residence for
Prince Heinrich of Prussia. The
overall design of the palace, with
its main block and the courtyard
enclosed within two wings, has
been extended many times. Two
marble statues by Paul Otto
(1883) stand at the entrance;
these represent Wilhelm and
Alexander von Humboldt.
Many famous scientists
have worked here, including
physicians Rudolf Virchow and
Robert Koch and physicists Max
Planck and Albert Einstein.
Graduates include Heinrich Heine,
Karl Marx and Friedrich Engels.
After World War II, the
university was in the Russian
sector and the difficulties
encountered by the students
of the western zone led to the
establishment in 1948 of the
Freie Universität. Part of the façade of the Zeughaus on Unter den Linden




074-075_EW_Germany.indd 75 09/10/17 12:46 pm

76  BERLIN AREA B Y AREA EASTERN CENTRE  77


0 Konzerthaus monument was returned to its Liebknecht proclaimed the birth design by Johann Boumann.
Concert Hall rightful place in 1988. The statue of the Socialist Republic. Built between 1747 and 1750,
is mounted on a high pedestal In 1989 the square reverted to the cathedral included the
Gendarmenmarkt 2. Map 4 C2. its original name and a former original Hohenzollern family
Tel (030) 203 09 21 01.  Stadtmitte. surrounded by allegorical
figures repre senting Lyric Poetry, GDR government building was crypt, one of the largest of its
A late Neo-Classical jewel, this Drama, Philosophy and History. torn down. A palace­like building, kind in Europe. The present
magnificent theatre building, the Humboldt­Forum, will be an Neo­Baroque structure is the
formerly known as the international and cultural centre work of Julius Raschdorff and
Schauspielhaus, is one of the q Deutscher Dom when complete in 2019. dates from 1894 to 1905.
greatest achievements of German Cathedral Following severe World War II
Berlin’s best-known architect, damage, the cathedral has
Karl Friedrich Schinkel. It was Gendarmenmarkt 1. Map 4 C3. r DDR Museum been restored in a simplified
Tel (030) 227 30 431.  Stadtmitte
built between 1818 and 1821 or Französische Straße. Exhibition: Karl­Liebknecht Straße 1. Map 5 D1. form. The Hohenzollern
around the ruins of Langhan’s Open 10am–6pm Tue–Sun (to 7pm Tel (030) 847 123 731.  &  memorial chapel, which
Side elevation of the Französischer Dom, National Theatre, destroyed May–Sep). 8 in English on request. Alexanderplatz. @ 100, 200, TXL. adjoined the northern walls,
built for Huguenot refugees by fire in 1817. The portico Open 10am–8pm Mon–Sun (to has been dismantled.
columns were retained in the The cathedral at the southern 10pm Sat).
9 Französischer new design. Following bomb end of the square is an old
Dom damage in World War II, it German Protestant- The surviving Stadtschloß portal fronting This privately run museum was
French Cathedral was reconstructed as a Reformed church. Based a government building enlarged in 2016 and provides a
concert hall and the on a five-petal shape, fascinating, interactive insight
Gendarmenmarkt 5. Map 4 C2. Tel exterior was restored it was designed by e Schloßplatz into daily life in the former East
(030) 206 49 922/3.  Stadtmitte or to its former glory. Martin Grünberg and Germany. Visit a reconstructed
Französische Straße. Museum: Open The Konzerthaus is built in 1708 by Map 5 D2.  Hackescher Markt. flat and take a simulated ride in
10am–6pm Tue–Sun. & Church: now home to the Giovanni Simonetti. @ 100, 147, 200, TXL. an old Trabant car through a
Open noon– 5pm Tue–Sun. 5
12:30pm Tue–Fri, 10am Sun. Viewing Konzerthausorchester In 1785 it acquired a This square was once the site concrete housing estate.
platform: Open 10:30am–7pm daily. Berlin. dome-covered tower of a huge residential complex
The whole building identical to that of the known as Stadtschloß (City
Although the two churches is decorated with French cathedral. Castle). Built in 1451, it served t Berliner Dom
standing on opposite sides of sculptures alluding to Burned down in as the main residence of the Am Lustgarten. Map 5 D1. Tel (030)
Schauspielhaus seem identical, drama and music. The 1945, it was rebuilt in Brandenburg Electors. It was 202 69 136.  Hackescher Markt.
their only common feature is façade, which includes 1993, with its interior transformed from a castle to a @ 100, 200, TXL Open Apr–Sep:
their matching front towers. a huge Ionic portico adapted as exhibition palace in the mid­16th century 9am–8pm Mon–Sat, noon–8pm Sun;
The French cathedral was with a set of stairs, space. On display is the when Elector Friedrich III (later Oct–Mar: 9am–7pm Mon–Sat, noon–
built for the Huguenot is crowned with a exhibition “Milestones – King Friedrich I) ordered its 7pm Sun. & 5 10am, 6pm Sun.
community, who found refuge sculpture of Apollo Sculpture from Setbacks – Sidetracks”. reconstruction in the Baroque
in protestant Berlin following riding a chariot pulled Deutscher Dom Over five floors, it traces style. The main seat of the The original Berliner Dom was The Neo-Baroque interior of the
their expulsion from France after by griffins. the historical develop- Hohenzollern family for almost based on a modest Baroque Berliner Dom
the revocation of the Edict of In front of the theatre stands ment of the parliamentary 500 years until the end of the
Nantes in 1598. The modest a shining white marble statue system in Germany. monarchy, the palace was partly Berlin’s Bridges
church, built between 1701 of Friedrich Schiller, which was burned during World War II but
and 1705 by Louis Cayart and sculpted by Reinhold Begas and was provisionally restored and Despite wartime damage, Berlin’s bridges are still well worth seeing.
Abraham Quesnay, was erected in 1869. Removed by w Schloßbrücke used as a museum. The Spree river and the city’s canals have some fine, exemplary
modelled on the Huguenot the Nazis during the 1930s, the Map 5 D2.  Hackescher Markt. In 1950–51, despite protests, architecture on their banks, while many of the bridges were designed
church in Charenton, France, @ 100, 200, TXL. the palace was demolished and and decorated by famous architects and sculptors. Probably the most
which was destroyed in 1688. the square was renamed Marx­ renowned bridge is the Schloßbrücke designed by Karl Friedrich
The interior features a late- This is one of the city’s most Engels­Platz under the GDR. Schinkel. Further south along the Kupfergrabenkanal, the Schleusen­
Baroque organ from 1754. beautiful bridges, connecting Now all that remains is the brücke, dating from around 1914, is decorated with reliefs of the early
The structure is dominated by Schloßplatz with Unter den triumphal­arch portal that once history of the city’s bridges and sluices. The next
a massive, cylindrical tower, Linden. It was built in 1824 to a adorned the façade on the bridge, heading south, is the Jungfernbrücke
(1798), which is the last drawbridge in Berlin.
which is encircled by Corinthian design by Karl Friedrich Lustgarten side. This is now The next bridge along is the Gertraudenbrücke.
porticos at its base. The tower Schinkel. Statues were added to incorporated into the wall of the Where Friedrichstraße crosses the Spree river is
and porticos were designed by the top of the bridge’s sparkling former government building, the the Weidendammer Brücke, built originally
Carl von Gontard and added red-granite pillars in 1853. These Staatsratgebäude, which was in 1695–7 and subsequently rebuilt in
around 1785. It houses the figures, made of white Carrara erected in 1964 on the square’s 1923, with an eagle motif adorning its
Huguenot Museum, which marble, were also created by south side. The building’s decor balustrade. On the Spree near the
charts the history of the Schinkel. The statues depict features the remaining original Regierungsviertel is the magnificent
Huguenot community in tableaux from Greek mythology, sculptures, including the magnif­ Moltkebrücke (1886–91). The bridge is
France and Brandenburg. such as Iris, Nike and Athena, icent atlantes by the famous guarded by a huge griffin wielding a shield
A viewing platform, which is training and looking after their Dresden sculptor, Balthasar adorned with the Prussian eagle, while cherubs
40 m (131 ft) above the ground, favourite young warriors. The Permoser. Their inclusion was dressed in a military fashion hold up lamps. On
is one of the city’s highest historic elaborate wrought-iron due to their propaganda value: the arches of the bridges are portraits of Ornamental feature of a bear
observation platforms and offers Interior of the Konzerthaus, formerly balustrade is decorated with it was from the balcony of the leaders, designed by Karl Begas. on the Liebknechtbrücke
stunning views of the skyline. the Schauspielhaus intertwined sea creatures. portal that in 1918 Karl
For hotels and restaurants in this area see pp492–3 and pp510–11


076-077_EW_Germany.indd 76 09/10/17 12:54 pm 076-077_EW_Germany.indd 77 09/10/17 12:54 pm
Eyewitness Travel LAYERS PRINTED:
Catalogue template “UK” LAYER
(Source v2.2)
Date 15th January 2013
Size 125mm x 217mm

EASTERN CENTRE  77


Liebknecht proclaimed the birth design by Johann Boumann.
of the Socialist Republic. Built between 1747 and 1750,
In 1989 the square reverted to the cathedral included the
its original name and a former original Hohenzollern family
GDR government building was crypt, one of the largest of its
torn down. A palace­like building, kind in Europe. The present
the Humboldt­Forum, will be an Neo­Baroque structure is the
international and cultural centre work of Julius Raschdorff and
when complete in 2019. dates from 1894 to 1905.
Following severe World War II
damage, the cathedral has
r DDR Museum been restored in a simplified
form. The Hohenzollern
Karl­Liebknecht Straße 1. Map 5 D1. memorial chapel, which
Tel (030) 847 123 731.  & 
Alexanderplatz. @ 100, 200, TXL. adjoined the northern walls,
Open 10am–8pm Mon–Sun (to has been dismantled.
10pm Sat).
The surviving Stadtschloß portal fronting This privately run museum was
a government building enlarged in 2016 and provides a
fascinating, interactive insight
e Schloßplatz into daily life in the former East
Germany. Visit a reconstructed
Map 5 D2.  Hackescher Markt.
@ 100, 147, 200, TXL. flat and take a simulated ride in
an old Trabant car through a
This square was once the site concrete housing estate.
of a huge residential complex
known as Stadtschloß (City
Castle). Built in 1451, it served t Berliner Dom
as the main residence of the Am Lustgarten. Map 5 D1. Tel (030)
Brandenburg Electors. It was 202 69 136.  Hackescher Markt.
transformed from a castle to a @ 100, 200, TXL Open Apr–Sep:
palace in the mid­16th century 9am–8pm Mon–Sat, noon–8pm Sun;
when Elector Friedrich III (later Oct–Mar: 9am–7pm Mon–Sat, noon–
King Friedrich I) ordered its 7pm Sun. & 5 10am, 6pm Sun.
reconstruction in the Baroque
style. The main seat of the The original Berliner Dom was The Neo-Baroque interior of the
Hohenzollern family for almost based on a modest Baroque Berliner Dom
500 years until the end of the
monarchy, the palace was partly Berlin’s Bridges
burned during World War II but
was provisionally restored and Despite wartime damage, Berlin’s bridges are still well worth seeing.
used as a museum. The Spree river and the city’s canals have some fine, exemplary
In 1950–51, despite protests, architecture on their banks, while many of the bridges were designed
the palace was demolished and and decorated by famous architects and sculptors. Probably the most
the square was renamed Marx­ renowned bridge is the Schloßbrücke designed by Karl Friedrich
Engels­Platz under the GDR. Schinkel. Further south along the Kupfergrabenkanal, the Schleusen­
Now all that remains is the brücke, dating from around 1914, is decorated with reliefs of the early
triumphal­arch portal that once history of the city’s bridges and sluices. The next
adorned the façade on the bridge, heading south, is the Jungfernbrücke
(1798), which is the last drawbridge in Berlin.
Lustgarten side. This is now The next bridge along is the Gertraudenbrücke.
incorporated into the wall of the Where Friedrichstraße crosses the Spree river is
former government building, the the Weidendammer Brücke, built originally
Staatsratgebäude, which was in 1695–7 and subsequently rebuilt in
erected in 1964 on the square’s 1923, with an eagle motif adorning its
south side. The building’s decor balustrade. On the Spree near the
features the remaining original Regierungsviertel is the magnificent
sculptures, including the magnif­ Moltkebrücke (1886–91). The bridge is
icent atlantes by the famous guarded by a huge griffin wielding a shield
Dresden sculptor, Balthasar adorned with the Prussian eagle, while cherubs
Permoser. Their inclusion was dressed in a military fashion hold up lamps. On
due to their propaganda value: the arches of the bridges are portraits of Ornamental feature of a bear
it was from the balcony of the leaders, designed by Karl Begas. on the Liebknechtbrücke
portal that in 1918 Karl




076-077_EW_Germany.indd 77 09/10/17 12:54 pm

78  BERLIN AREA B Y AREA EASTERN CENTRE  79

Street-by-Street: Museum Island WESTERN y Altes Museum bust of Nefertiti. Most popular
CENTRE
Old Museum is the collection from
The long island that nestles in the tributaries of the Spree river is 19th-century archaeological
the cradle of Berlin’s history. It was here that the first settlements Am Lustgarten (Bodestraße 1–3). digs by Richard Lepsius and
Map 5 D1. Tel (030) 266 42 42 42.
appeared at the beginning of the 13th century: Cölln is mentioned EASTERN  Hackescher Markt. @ 100, 200, Johann Ludwig Burckhardt
CENTRE
in documents dating back to 1237, and its twin settlement, Berlin, TXL. Open 10am–6pm Tue–Wed & at Tell al-Amarna, Egypt. Tell
al-Amarna was the capital
is mentioned a few years later, in 1244. The island’s character was Fri–Sun, 10am–8pm Thu. & founded by Pharaoh
transformed by the construction of the Brandenburg Electors’ Designed by Karl Friedrich Amenhotep IV in the 14th
palace, which served as their residence from 1470. Although it Locator Map Schinkel, this museum building century BC. In a break with
was razed to the ground in 1950, some interesting buildings See Street Finder maps 4 & 5 is one of the world’s most tradition, Amenhotep and his
on the north side of the island have survived, including the y . Altes Museum beautiful Neo-Classical wife, Nefertiti, are depicted in
Berliner Dom (Berlin Cathedral) and the impressive collection of The corners of the central building structures, with an impressive a more naturalistic manner.
87-m (285-ft) high portico
feature the figures of Castor and
museums that give the island its Pollux, heroes of Greek mythology. supported by 18 Ionic columns.
name, Museumsinsel. Officially opened in 1830, the i Alte
museum was purpose-built
0 metres 100 Nationalgalerie
to house the royal collection
0 yards 100 of art and antiquities. Old National Gallery
Following World War II, the Bodestraße 1–3. Map 5 D1. Tel (030)
building was used only for 266 42 42 42.  Hackescher Markt.
temporary exhibitions. It now @ 100, 200, TXL. v M1, M4, M5.
houses the Antikensammlung, Open 10am–6pm Tue–Wed & Fri–
with a magnificent collection Sun, 10am–8pm Thu.
of Greek, Roman and
Etruscan antiquities. The old Nationalgalerie
building, designed by
u Neues Friedrich August Stüler,
was erected between
Museum 1866 and 1876. It was
New Museum originally intended to
house the collection
Bodestraße 1–3. Map 5 been on display in the
of modern art that had
D1.  Hackescher Markt.
B O D E S T R A S S E @ 100, 200, TXL. v M1, Akademie der Künste
M4, M5. Open 10am–6pm
(Art Academy). After
daily (to 8pm Thu). &
World War II, however,
p Bode-Museum The Neues Museum the collection was split
A rounded corner of the building, A M K U P F E R – Lustgarten was built on Museum up into several sections
crowned with a dome, provides a G R A B E N contains a 70-ton Island between 1841 and part of it was
magnificent end-piece to the tip granite bowl, the and 1855 to a design shown in West Berlin,
of the island. biggest in the by Friedrich August Pericles’ Head where the Neue
o Pergamonmuseum world, which Stüler. Until World War II, Nationalgalerie was
Named after the Pergamon Altar was placed
housed in its main hall, this is a in the garden it housed a collection of specifically erected for this
treasure trove of antiquities from in 1828. antiquities, mainly ancient purpose (see p92). This building
the Near and Middle East. Egyptian art. The rooms in the was then renamed Alte
museum building were Nationalgalerie.
decorated specifically to Following the reunification
complement the exhibitions of Germany, the modern art
they contained, while wall collections were merged
paintings by Wilhelm von again. Two exhibition halls
Kaulbach depicted key events now show paintings from
u . Neues Museum in world history. The building the German Romantic era,
This museum houses was damaged in 1945 and including work by Caspar
exhibitions on antiquities LUSTGARTEN the museum closed. It David Friedrich and Karl
and ancient Egyptian art.
reopened in 2009 following Friedrich Schinkel. The famous
reconstruction and once again 19th-century marble sculpture
houses the Egyptian Museum of the two Prussian princesses
as well as the Museum of by Johann Gottfried Schadow
i Alte Nationalgalerie Prehistory and Early History. is also on display, as is a
The equestrian statue of King Many sculptures, sarcophagi, significant collection of works
Friedrich Wilhelm IV in front murals and architectural by Adolph Menzel, including
of the building is the work of Key fragments of various eras are on his most famous painting,
Alexander Calandrelli. Suggested route display, including the famous The Balcony Room.
For hotels and restaurants in this area see pp492–3 and pp510–11
078-079_EW_Germany.indd 78 09/10/17 12:54 pm 078-079_EW_Germany.indd 79 09/10/17 12:54 pm
Eyewitness Travel LAYERS PRINTED:
Starsight template “UK” LAYER
(Source v2.5)
Date 6th February2013
Size 125mm x 217mm

EASTERN CENTRE  79


y Altes Museum bust of Nefertiti. Most popular
Old Museum is the collection from
19th-century archaeological
Am Lustgarten (Bodestraße 1–3). digs by Richard Lepsius and
Map 5 D1. Tel (030) 266 42 42 42. Johann Ludwig Burckhardt
 Hackescher Markt. @ 100, 200,
TXL. Open 10am–6pm Tue–Wed & at Tell al-Amarna, Egypt. Tell
Fri–Sun, 10am–8pm Thu. & al-Amarna was the capital
founded by Pharaoh
Designed by Karl Friedrich Amenhotep IV in the 14th
Schinkel, this museum building century BC. In a break with
is one of the world’s most tradition, Amenhotep and his
y . Altes Museum beautiful Neo-Classical wife, Nefertiti, are depicted in
The corners of the central building structures, with an impressive a more naturalistic manner.
feature the figures of Castor and 87-m (285-ft) high portico
Pollux, heroes of Greek mythology. supported by 18 Ionic columns.
Officially opened in 1830, the i Alte
museum was purpose-built
0 metres 100 Nationalgalerie
to house the royal collection
0 yards 100 of art and antiquities. Old National Gallery
Following World War II, the Bodestraße 1–3. Map 5 D1. Tel (030)
building was used only for 266 42 42 42.  Hackescher Markt.
temporary exhibitions. It now @ 100, 200, TXL. v M1, M4, M5.
houses the Antikensammlung, Open 10am–6pm Tue–Wed & Fri–
with a magnificent collection Sun, 10am–8pm Thu.
of Greek, Roman and
Etruscan antiquities. The old Nationalgalerie
building, designed by
u Neues Friedrich August Stüler,
was erected between
Museum 1866 and 1876. It was
New Museum originally intended to
house the collection
Bodestraße 1–3. Map 5 been on display in the
of modern art that had
D1.  Hackescher Markt.
B O D E S T R A S S E @ 100, 200, TXL. v M1, Akademie der Künste
M4, M5. Open 10am–6pm
(Art Academy). After
daily (to 8pm Thu). &
World War II, however,
was built on Museum
up into several sections
Lustgarten The Neues Museum the collection was split
contains a 70-ton Island between 1841 and part of it was
granite bowl, the and 1855 to a design shown in West Berlin,
biggest in the by Friedrich August Pericles’ Head where the Neue
world, which Stüler. Until World War II, Nationalgalerie was
was placed it housed a collection of specifically erected for this
in the garden antiquities, mainly ancient purpose (see p92). This building
in 1828. Egyptian art. The rooms in the was then renamed Alte
museum building were Nationalgalerie.
decorated specifically to Following the reunification
complement the exhibitions of Germany, the modern art
they contained, while wall collections were merged
paintings by Wilhelm von again. Two exhibition halls
Kaulbach depicted key events now show paintings from
in world history. The building the German Romantic era,
was damaged in 1945 and including work by Caspar
LUSTGARTEN the museum closed. It David Friedrich and Karl
reopened in 2009 following Friedrich Schinkel. The famous
reconstruction and once again 19th-century marble sculpture
houses the Egyptian Museum of the two Prussian princesses
as well as the Museum of by Johann Gottfried Schadow
Prehistory and Early History. is also on display, as is a
Many sculptures, sarcophagi, significant collection of works
murals and architectural by Adolph Menzel, including
Key fragments of various eras are on his most famous painting,
Suggested route display, including the famous The Balcony Room.


078-079_EW_Germany.indd 79 09/10/17 12:54 pm

80  BERLIN AREA B Y AREA EASTERN CENTRE  81

o Pergamonmuseum VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
Façade of the Mshatta
The Pergamonmuseum was built between 1912 Palace (AD 744) Practical Information
and 1930 to a design by Alfred Messels and Ludwig This fragment is from the Bodestraße 1–3.
southern façade of the
Hoffmann. It houses one of the most famous Jordanian Mshatta Palace, Map 4 C1, 5 D1.
Tel (030) 266 42 42 42.
collections of antiquities in Europe and owes its presented to Wilhelm II by Open 10am–6pm daily (to 8pm
name to the famous Pergamon Altar, which takes Sultan Abdul Hamid of Thu). & 9 = d m 7 -
pride of place in the main hall (closed until 2019). Ottoman in 1903. ∑ smb.museum
Its collections are the result of intensive archaeological Transport
excavations by German expeditions to the Near and  Friedrichstraße or Hackescher
Middle East. Major renovation until after 2025 means Markt. @ 100, 200, TXL.
a selection of the museum’s treasures are shown . Pergamon Altar (170 BC)
This scene, featuring the
in the south wing, while most of the Museum of goddess Athena, appears
Antiquities’ pieces are displayed in the Altes Museum. on the large frieze
illustrating a battle
between the
Roman Mosaic gods and
(3rd or 4th century the giants.
AD) This ancient
mosaic was found
at Jerash, Jordan. A Non-exhibition
second part of it is rooms
in the collection of
the Stark Museum Aleppo Zimmer (around 1603)
of Art, Texas. This magnificent panelled room comes
Second from a merchant’s house in the Syrian
floor city of Aleppo.
The Goddesss Athena
This enchanting Hellenistic
sculpture of the goddess
Athena is one of many . Market Gate from
displayed in the museum. Miletus (c.120 AD)
Measuring over 16 m
(52 ft) in height, this
gate opened onto the
southern market of
Miletus, a Roman town
in Asia Minor.
First floor



Ground floor
Key
Ancient Near Eastern antiquities
(Vorderasiatisches Museum)
Islamic art (Museum für
Islamische Kunst)
Classical antiquities
Non-exhibition rooms

Main
entrance . Ishtar Gate
from Babylon
Gallery Guide (6th century BC)
Assyrian Palace Original glazed
Parts of this beautifully The right wing houses the Museum bricks decorate both
reconstructed palace interior, of Near Eastern Antiquities; the first the huge Ishtar gate
from the ancient kingdom floor of the right wing houses the and the impressive
of Assyria, date from the Museum of Islamic Art. The left wing Processional Way
12th century BC. will be closed until 2019. that leads up to it.
For hotels and restaurants in this area see pp492–3 and pp510–11


080-081_EW_Germany.indd 80 09/10/17 12:54 pm 080-081_EW_Germany.indd 81 09/10/17 12:54 pm
Eyewitness Travel LAYERS PRINTED:
Starsight template “UK” LAYER
(Source v2.5)
Date 6th February2013
Size 125mm x 217mm

EASTERN CENTRE  81


VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
Façade of the Mshatta
Palace (AD 744) Practical Information
This fragment is from the Bodestraße 1–3.
southern façade of the Map 4 C1, 5 D1.
Jordanian Mshatta Palace, Tel (030) 266 42 42 42.
presented to Wilhelm II by Open 10am–6pm daily (to 8pm
Sultan Abdul Hamid of Thu). & 9 = d m 7 -
Ottoman in 1903. ∑ smb.museum
Transport
 Friedrichstraße or Hackescher
Markt. @ 100, 200, TXL.












Aleppo Zimmer (around 1603)
This magnificent panelled room comes
from a merchant’s house in the Syrian
city of Aleppo.



. Market Gate from
Miletus (c.120 AD)
Measuring over 16 m
(52 ft) in height, this
gate opened onto the
southern market of
Miletus, a Roman town
in Asia Minor.





Key
Ancient Near Eastern antiquities
(Vorderasiatisches Museum)
Islamic art (Museum für
Islamische Kunst)
Classical antiquities
Non-exhibition rooms

Main
entrance . Ishtar Gate
from Babylon
Gallery Guide (6th century BC)
Original glazed
The right wing houses the Museum bricks decorate both
of Near Eastern Antiquities; the first the huge Ishtar gate
floor of the right wing houses the and the impressive
Museum of Islamic Art. The left wing Processional Way
will be closed until 2019. that leads up to it.




080-081_EW_Germany.indd 81 09/10/17 12:54 pm

82  BERLIN AREA B Y AREA EASTERN CENTRE  83


Gothic hall design and the f Fernsehturm VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
lavish decorative touches make
this church one of the most The television tower, called by the locals Practical Information
interesting in Berlin. An Telespargel, or toothpick, remains to this day the Panoramastraße 1a.
alabaster pulpit by Andreas city’s tallest structure at 368 m (1,207 ft). It is also Map 5 E1. Tel (030) 247 575 875.
Schlüter, dating from 1703, is Open Mar–Oct: 9am–midnight
decorated with bas-reliefs of the second-tallest structure in Europe. The tower daily; Nov–Feb: 10am–midnight
St John the Baptist and the was built in 1969 to a design by a team of architects daily.
personifications of the Virtues. including Fritz Dieter and Günter Franke, with the Transport
The Baroque main altar was help of Swedish experts. However, the idea for the  &  Alexanderplatz.
designed by Andreas Krüger tower originated much earlier from Hermann @ 100, 200, TXL.
around 1762. The paintings Henselmann (creator of the Karl-Marx-Allee
with which it is adorned include
three works by Christian development) in the Socialist-Realist style. The television antenna is
The Bode-Museum, designed by Ernst von Ihne Bernhard Rode. visible all over Berlin.
A Gothic font, dating from
p Bode-Museum a Marienkirche 1437, is supported by three Transmitter aerial
black dragons and decorated
Monbijoubrücke (Bodestraße 1–3). Karl-Liebknecht-Straße 8. Map 5 E1. with the figures of Jesus Christ, The metal sphere is
Map 4 C1. Tel (030) 266 42 42 42.  Tel (030) 24 75 95 10.  Alexander- Mary and the Apostles. covered with steel cladding.
Hackescher Markt or Friedrichstraße. platz. @ 100, 200, TXL. Open Apr–
Open 10am–6pm daily (to 10pm Thu). Dec: 10am–6pm daily; Jan–Mar:
v M1, M4, M5, 12. 10am–4pm daily. 5 10:30am Sun.
s Rotes Rathaus
The fourth museum building St Mary’s Church, or the Red Town Hall
on Museumsinsel was Marienkirche, was first
constructed between 1897 established as a parish church Rathausstraße 15. Map 5 E2.  &
 Alexanderplatz.  Kloster straße,
and 1904. It was designed in the second half of the 13th @ TXL, 248.
by Ernst von Ihne to fit the century. Started around 1280,
wedge-shaped northwestern construction was completed This impressive structure is View from the Tower
end of the island. The interior early in the 14th century. During Berlin’s main town hall. Its On a clear day the viewing platform offers a
was designed with the help reconstruction works in 1380, predecessor was a much more full view of Berlin. Visibility can reach up to
of an art historian, Wilhelm following a fire, the church was modest structure that, by the 80 km (50 miles).
von Bode, who was the altered slightly, but its overall end of the 19th century, was Restaurant Sphere
director of the Berlin state shape changed only in the inadequate to meet the needs Concrete structure rising One of the attractions is the
museums at the time. 15th century when it acquired of the growing metropolis. to 250 m (820 ft) revolving café. A full rotation
The museum displayed a the front tower. In 1790, the The present building was takes about an hour, so it is
rather mixed collection that tower was crowned with a designed by Hermann Friedrich The concrete shaft contains two possible to get a bird’s-eye view
included some old masters. dome, designed by Carl Waesemann, and the construc- lifts that carry passengers to the of the whole city over a coffee,
Its original name, Kaiser Gotthard Langhans, which tion works went on from 1861 café and viewing platform. breakfast, lunch or dinner.
Friedrich Museum, was includes both Baroque and until 1869. The architect took
changed after World War II. Neo-Gothic elements. his main inspiration from
Following the reassembling The Marienkirche was once Italian Renaissance municipal d Alexanderplatz city’s busiest spots. Its frenzied
of the Berlin collections, all hemmed in by buildings, but buildings, but the tower is Map 5 E1, F1.  &  Alexanderplatz. atmosphere was captured by
the paintings were rehoused in today it stands alone in the reminiscent of Laon cathedral @ 100, 200, TXL. Alfred Döblin (1878–1957) in his
the Kulturforum (see pp88–9), shadow of the Fernsehturm in France. The walls are made novel Berlin Alexanderplatz.
while the Egyptian art (Television Tower). The early from red brick and it was this, Alexanderplatz, or “Alex” as it In 1929, attempts were
and the papyrus collection rather than the political is called locally, has a long made to develop the square,
were moved to the Ägyptisches orientation of the mayors, that history, although it would be though only two office
Museum (Egyptian Museum) at gave the town hall its name. hard now to find any visible buildings were added –
the Neues Museum (see p79). The whole building has a traces of the past. Once known the Alexanderhaus and the
The building houses a continuous frieze known as The monumental, red-brick town hall, as Ochsenmarkt (oxen market), Berolinahaus, both designed
collection of over 50,000 coins, the “stone chronicle”, which known as the Rotes Rathaus it was the site of a cattle and by Peter Behrens.
plus medals and Byzantine art. was added in 1879. The frieze wool market. It was later World War II erased most
It is also home to an extensive features scenes and figures from was housed in the Schöneberg renamed after Tsar Alexander I of the square’s buildings and
collection of sculptures, the city’s history and traces the town hall (see p107). Following who visited Berlin in 1805. At they were replaced by
including the works of Tilman development of its economy the reunification of Germany that time, the square boasted characterless 1960s edifices,
Riemenschneider, Donatello, and science. in 1990, the Rotes Rathaus a magnificent monumental including the Park Inn Hotel
Gianlorenzo Bernini and The Rotes Rathaus was became the centre of authority, colonnade, which was designed (formerly Hotel Stadt Berlin)
Antonio Canova. A copy of severely damaged during housing the offices of the mayor by Carl von Gontard. and the Fernsehturm.
the magnificent equestrian World War II but, following its and the Berlin cabinet. In time, houses and shops However, the area has been
statue of the Great Elector, reconstruction between 1951 The forecourt sculptures sprang up around the square redeveloped and is home to
Friedrich Wilhelm, by Andreas and 1958, it became the seat by Fritz Kremer, which depict and a market hall and urban several shopping plazas and
Schlüter, is also on display in Baroque altar in the Marienkirche, of the East Berlin authorities. Berliners helping to rebuild train line were built nearby. cinemas, as well as open-air
the old hall. designed by Andreas Krüger The West Berlin magistrate the city, were added in 1958. “Alex” became one of the markets during the holidays.
For hotels and restaurants in this area see pp492–3 and pp510–11


082-083_EW_Germany.indd 82 09/10/17 12:54 pm 082-083_EW_Germany.indd 83 09/10/17 12:54 pm
Eyewitness Travel LAYERS PRINTED:
Catalogue template “UK” LAYER
(Source v2.2)
Date 15th January 2013
Size 125mm x 217mm

EASTERN CENTRE  83

f Fernsehturm VISITORS’ CHECKLIST

The television tower, called by the locals Practical Information
Telespargel, or toothpick, remains to this day the Panoramastraße 1a.
Map 5 E1. Tel (030) 247 575 875.
city’s tallest structure at 368 m (1,207 ft). It is also Open Mar–Oct: 9am–midnight
the second-tallest structure in Europe. The tower daily; Nov–Feb: 10am–midnight
was built in 1969 to a design by a team of architects daily.
including Fritz Dieter and Günter Franke, with the Transport
help of Swedish experts. However, the idea for the  &  Alexanderplatz.
tower originated much earlier from Hermann @ 100, 200, TXL.
Henselmann (creator of the Karl-Marx-Allee
development) in the Socialist-Realist style. The television antenna is
visible all over Berlin.
Transmitter aerial
The metal sphere is
covered with steel cladding.








View from the Tower
On a clear day the viewing platform offers a
full view of Berlin. Visibility can reach up to
80 km (50 miles).
Restaurant Sphere
Concrete structure rising One of the attractions is the
to 250 m (820 ft) revolving café. A full rotation
takes about an hour, so it is
The concrete shaft contains two possible to get a bird’s-eye view
lifts that carry passengers to the of the whole city over a coffee,
café and viewing platform. breakfast, lunch or dinner.

d Alexanderplatz city’s busiest spots. Its frenzied
atmosphere was captured by
Map 5 E1, F1.  &  Alexanderplatz.
@ 100, 200, TXL. Alfred Döblin (1878–1957) in his
novel Berlin Alexanderplatz.
Alexanderplatz, or “Alex” as it In 1929, attempts were
is called locally, has a long made to develop the square,
history, although it would be though only two office
hard now to find any visible buildings were added –
traces of the past. Once known the Alexanderhaus and the
The monumental, red-brick town hall, as Ochsenmarkt (oxen market), Berolinahaus, both designed
known as the Rotes Rathaus it was the site of a cattle and by Peter Behrens.
wool market. It was later World War II erased most
was housed in the Schöneberg renamed after Tsar Alexander I of the square’s buildings and
town hall (see p107). Following who visited Berlin in 1805. At they were replaced by
the reunification of Germany that time, the square boasted characterless 1960s edifices,
in 1990, the Rotes Rathaus a magnificent monumental including the Park Inn Hotel
became the centre of authority, colonnade, which was designed (formerly Hotel Stadt Berlin)
housing the offices of the mayor by Carl von Gontard. and the Fernsehturm.
and the Berlin cabinet. In time, houses and shops However, the area has been
The forecourt sculptures sprang up around the square redeveloped and is home to
by Fritz Kremer, which depict and a market hall and urban several shopping plazas and
Berliners helping to rebuild train line were built nearby. cinemas, as well as open-air
the city, were added in 1958. “Alex” became one of the markets during the holidays.




082-083_EW_Germany.indd 83 09/10/17 12:54 pm

84  BERLIN AREA B Y AREA EASTERN CENTRE  85


j Checkpoint profoundly complicated palace at Wilhelm-
Charlie philosophical programme. straße 102, became
The museum’s architecture the HQ of Reinhard
Friedrichstraße 43–45. Map 4 C4. itself is intended to convey Heydrich and the
Tel (030) 253 72 50.  Kochstraße. something of the tragic history Third Reich’s security
@ M29. Haus am Checkpoint Charlie: of the millions of Jews who service. Prinz-
Open 9am–10pm daily. & perished in the Holocaust. Albrecht-Straße 8
The interior arrangement housed the head
The name of this notorious is dominated by a gigantic of the Gestapo,
border crossing between the empty crack, which cuts a Heinrich Müller,
American and Soviet sectors swathe through the building. while the Hotel Prinz
comes from the word that Several corridors lead to a Alb recht at No. 9 The stark exterior of the Topographie des Terrors
signifies the letter C in the windowless Holocaust tower. became HQ of the
international phonetic alphabet: The collection focuses on Schutzstaffel or SS. the museum’s exhibits, such as
Riverside buildings of the Nikolaiviertel Alpha, Bravo, Charlie. Jewish history and art, with After World War II, the bomb- locomotives, water towers and
Between 1961 and 1990, an emphasis on portraying damaged buildings were pulled ships, to be displayed full-size
g Nikolaiviertel h Märkisches Checkpoint Charlie was the only stories through related down and, in 1987, a temporary and in their original condition.
Museum crossing for foreigners between objects. The thousands of hall was built to house an Of particular interest in the
Map 5 E2.  &  Alexanderplatz. East and West Berlin. It came works of art and historical exhibition on the history of the collection are the dozens of
 Klosterstraße. @ 100, 147, 200, Am Köllnischen Park 5. Map 5 F2. exhibits include artifacts that
248, M48. to represent a symbol of both site. Today the museum houses locomotives and railway
Tel (030) 30 86 62 15.  freedom and separation for the were once part of everyday the permanent ‘Topography of carriages from different eras,
This small area on the bank of Märkisches Museum.  many East Germans trying to Jewish life in Berlin. Terror’ exhibition and multiple as well as large aviation and
the Spree is a favourite place for Jannowitzbrücke. @ 147, 265. escape Soviet communism. The museum is accessible changing temporary exhibitions, shipping exhibitions. Further
both Berliners and tourists. Some Open 10am–6pm Tue, Thu–Sun, Today, a single watchtower only through an underground a library, event spaces and exhibits explore the history of
noon–8pm Wed. & (free 1st Wed
of Berlin’s oldest houses stood of month). Presentation of is all that remains. Next to it is passageway in the former education programmes.. road transport, the internet,
here until they were destroyed mechanical instruments 3pm Sun. a museum – Haus am Check- Berlin-Museum building paper manufacturing, printing,
in World War II. The redevelop­ point Charlie. Its rich collection next door. weaving, tele communications
ment of the area, which was Built between 1901 and 1908, details the years of the Cold z Deutsches and computer technology.
carried out by the GDR govern­ this complex of red brick War in Berlin. Technikmuseum There are also two windmills,
ment between 1979 and 1987, buildings was inspired by a brewery and an old forge.
was an interesting attempt to the brick­Gothic style popular Berlin The section called Spectrum is
recreate a medieval town. Now, in the Brandenburg region. k Jüdisches Trebbiner Straße 9. Map 4 A5. especially popular with children
with the exception of one or The museum, founded in Tel (030) 90 25 40.  Gleisdreieck. for its “hands-on” experiments.
two restored buildings, the 1874, is dedicated to the Museum @ 140. Open 9am–5:30pm Tue–Fri, A special attraction here is
Nikolaiviertel consists entirely cultural history of Berlin from Lindenstraße 14. Map 4 C5. Tel (030) 10am–6pm Sat & Sun. 7 & the Historical Brewery. The
of newly built replicas of the first settlements to today. 25 99 33 00.  Hallesches Tor or building was once used by the
historic buildings. The department “Berliner Kochstraße. @ M29, M41, 265. The German Museum of brewery Tucher Bräu for storing
The Nikolaikirche was Kunst” (art), for example, Open 10am–10pm Mon, 10am–8pm Technology was first established beer, but it was destroyed in
destroyed by bombing in 1945 presents a remarkable Tue–Sun. in 1982 with the intention of World War II. Decades later, the
and rebuilt in 1987. All that collection of paintings, grouping more than 100 brewery was rebuilt on four
remains of the original structure, sculpture, textiles, faiences, The building housing the city’s smaller, specialized collections levels. Some visitors claim
which was probably built glass and porcelain. Jewish Museum is an exciting under one roof. The current they can smell roasted malt.
around 1230, is the base of the One of the galleries houses and imaginative example of collection is arranged on the From the top of the brewery
two­tower façade of the present some historical mechanical 20th­century architecture. The austere, steel-clad walls of the site of the former freight depot, building, there is a spectacular
church, which dates from musical instruments. Another Designed by a Polish­Jewish Jüdisches Museum the size of which allows many of view over Berlin.
around 1300. exhibition area opened in architect based in the United
The only Baroque building 2017, and a series of changing States, Daniel Libeskind, the
in Nikolaiviertel to escape special exhibitions on Berlin’s plan, shape, style and interior l Topographie des
damage during World War II was history can be found in and exterior arrangement of Terrors
the Knoblauchhaus, a small the basement. the building are all part of a
townhouse built in 1759 for the Niederkirchnerstraße 8. Map 4 B4.
Knoblauch family. The current Tel (030) 25 45 09 50.  & 
appearance of the building is Potsdamer Platz, Anhalter Bahnhof.
the result of work carried out in @ M29. Open 10am–8pm daily. The
grounds are only accessible until dusk.
1835 when the façade was Closed 24 & 31 Dec, 1 Jan.
given a Neo­Classical look.
Ephraim-Palais was built During the Third Reich, Prinz-
in 1766 for Nathan Veitel Albrecht-Straße (Niederkirch-
Heinrich Ephraim, Frederick the nerstraße) was probably the
Great’s mint master and court most frightening address in
jeweller. Parts of the original Berlin: here, three of the most
structure, which were saved terrifying Nazi political depart-
from demolition, were used in ments had their headquarters.
the reconstruction. The exterior of the Märkisches Museum, echoing a medieval monastery The Neo-Classical Prinz-Albrecht One of dozens of locomotives displayed in the Deutsches Technikmuseum
For hotels and restaurants in this area see pp492–3 and pp510–11


084-085_EW_Germany.indd 84 09/10/17 12:54 pm 084-085_EW_Germany.indd 85 09/10/17 12:54 pm
Eyewitness Travel LAYERS PRINTED:
Catalogue template “UK” LAYER
(Source v2.2)
Date 15th January 2013
Size 125mm x 217mm

EASTERN CENTRE  85


profoundly complicated palace at Wilhelm-
philosophical programme. straße 102, became
The museum’s architecture the HQ of Reinhard
itself is intended to convey Heydrich and the
something of the tragic history Third Reich’s security
of the millions of Jews who service. Prinz-
perished in the Holocaust. Albrecht-Straße 8
The interior arrangement housed the head
is dominated by a gigantic of the Gestapo,
empty crack, which cuts a Heinrich Müller,
swathe through the building. while the Hotel Prinz
Several corridors lead to a Alb recht at No. 9 The stark exterior of the Topographie des Terrors
windowless Holocaust tower. became HQ of the
The collection focuses on Schutzstaffel or SS. the museum’s exhibits, such as
Jewish history and art, with After World War II, the bomb- locomotives, water towers and
an emphasis on portraying damaged buildings were pulled ships, to be displayed full-size
stories through related down and, in 1987, a temporary and in their original condition.
objects. The thousands of hall was built to house an Of particular interest in the
works of art and historical exhibition on the history of the collection are the dozens of
exhibits include artifacts that site. Today the museum houses locomotives and railway
were once part of everyday the permanent ‘Topography of carriages from different eras,
Jewish life in Berlin. Terror’ exhibition and multiple as well as large aviation and
The museum is accessible changing temporary exhibitions, shipping exhibitions. Further
only through an underground a library, event spaces and exhibits explore the history of
passageway in the former education programmes.. road transport, the internet,
Berlin-Museum building paper manufacturing, printing,
next door. weaving, tele communications
z Deutsches and computer technology.
Technikmuseum There are also two windmills,
Berlin a brewery and an old forge.
The section called Spectrum is
Trebbiner Straße 9. Map 4 A5. especially popular with children
Tel (030) 90 25 40.  Gleisdreieck. for its “hands-on” experiments.
@ 140. Open 9am–5:30pm Tue–Fri, A special attraction here is
10am–6pm Sat & Sun. 7 & the Historical Brewery. The
building was once used by the
The German Museum of brewery Tucher Bräu for storing
Technology was first established beer, but it was destroyed in
in 1982 with the intention of World War II. Decades later, the
grouping more than 100 brewery was rebuilt on four
smaller, specialized collections levels. Some visitors claim
under one roof. The current they can smell roasted malt.
collection is arranged on the From the top of the brewery
The austere, steel-clad walls of the site of the former freight depot, building, there is a spectacular
Jüdisches Museum the size of which allows many of view over Berlin.

l Topographie des
Terrors
Niederkirchnerstraße 8. Map 4 B4.
Tel (030) 25 45 09 50.  & 
Potsdamer Platz, Anhalter Bahnhof.
@ M29. Open 10am–8pm daily. The
grounds are only accessible until dusk.
Closed 24 & 31 Dec, 1 Jan.
During the Third Reich, Prinz-
Albrecht-Straße (Niederkirch-
nerstraße) was probably the
most frightening address in
Berlin: here, three of the most
terrifying Nazi political depart-
ments had their headquarters.
The Neo-Classical Prinz-Albrecht One of dozens of locomotives displayed in the Deutsches Technikmuseum




084-085_EW_Germany.indd 85 09/10/17 12:54 pm

BERLIN AREA B Y AREA  87

WESTERN CENTRE

This part of Berlin includes the areas of Potsdamer Platz is now an ultra-modern
Tiergarten, Charlottenburg and parts development, built on the wasteland
of Kreuzberg, as well as a small section of that formerly divided East and West Berlin.
Mitte, which used to belong to East Berlin. Although the eastern part of Charlotten-
Tiergarten, which was once a royal hunting burg does not feature a great number of
estate, became a park in the 18th century. historic buildings, it is one of the city’s
It survives as a park to this day, although most attractive districts, which, after
in an altered form. World War II, became the commercial and
To the south of Tiergarten is the Kultur- cultural centre of West Berlin. Kreuzberg
forum – a large centre of museums and is a lively area that is now populated
other cultural establishments, which was by immigrants, artists and affluent
created after World War II. The neigh bouring young professionals.
Sights at a Glance
Museums and Galleries Streets and Squares
3 Käthe-Kollwitz-Museum 2 Kurfürstendamm (Ku’damm)
7 Bauhaus-Archiv 4 Zoologischer Garten
8 Bendlerblock 5 Tiergarten
9 Gemäldegalerie t Potsdamer Platz
0 Kupferstichkabinett und Churches
Kunstbibliothek
q Neue Nationalgalerie 1 Kaiser-Wilhelm-Gedächtniskirche
w Kunstgewerbemuseum Historic Buildings and
r Musikinstrumenten-Museum Monuments
u Regierungsviertel 6 Siegessäule
i Hamburger Bahnhof e Philharmonie
o Museum für Naturkunde y Reichstag NaturkundemuseumNaturkundemuseum C H A U S S E E S T R A S S
INVALID ENS TR A S SE E
INVALID ENS TR A S S
C H A U S S E E S T R A S S E E
INVA LI D EN S T RASS E E HANNOVERSC H E STR FRIEDRICHSTRASSE
INVA LI D EN S T RASS
OranienburgerOranienburger
TorTor
HauptbahnhofHauptbahnhof
REINHARDTSTRASSE
PAULSTRASSE E PAULSTRASS L ÜNEBURGER STR. . ALT-MOABIT L U I S E N S T R A S S E E REINHARDTSTRASSE
L ÜNEBURGER STR
HANNOVERSC H E STR FRIEDRICHSTRASSE
ALT-MOABIT
L U I S E N S T R A S S
S p r e
See also Street Finder maps S p r e e e BundestagBundestag
pp119–122 PLATZ DERPLATZ DER
REPUBLIKREPUBLIK
SCHEIDEMANNSTR
SCHEIDEMANNSTR
JOHN-FOSTER-
JOHN-FOSTER-
DULLES-ALLEE
DULLES-ALLEE
SPREEWEG
SPREEWEG S TR ASSE D E S 17 . J U N I I
S TR ASSE D E S 17 . J U N
KLEINERKLEINER
STERNSTERN
STRA S SE DES 1 7. JU NI I TIERGARTEN-TUNNEL E B E R T S T R A S S E E
STRA S SE DES 1 7. JU N
TIERGAR TENTIERGAR TEN E B E R T S T R A S S
FAS ANENSTRASSE
FAS ANENSTRASSE T I E R G A R T E N S T R A S S E E
TIERGARTEN-TUNNEL
HOFJÄGERALLEE
HOFJÄGERALLEE
T I E R G A R T E N - -
ST ÜLERSTRASSE E
POTSDAMER STR
ZOOLOGISCHERZOOLOGISCHER
GARTENGARTEN ST ÜLERSTRASS STAUFFENBERGSTR. S T R A S S POTSDAMER STR
ZoologischerZoologischer STAUFFENBERGSTR. PotsdamerPotsdamer
PlatzPlatz
HEYDT STR
GartenGarten HEYDT STR
BUDAPESTER STR
BUDAPESTER STR REICHPIETSCHUFER
REICHPIETSCHUFER
L Ü T Z OWU F E R R
KANTSTR. L Ü T Z OWU F E
KANTSTR.
S C H ÖN E B E R G ER U F E
S C H ÖN E B E R G ER U F E R R
NÜRNBERGER STRASSE
KURFÜRSTENDAMM Kurfürsten-Kurfürsten- WittenbergplatzWittenbergplatz
KURFÜRSTENDAMM
KURFÜRSTENSTRASSE
KURFÜRSTENSTRASSE
dammdamm
AN DER URANIA
FASANEN- FASANEN- Uhlandstr.Uhlandstr. NÜRNBERGER STRASSE AN DER URANIA 0 metres 400
TAUENTZIEN STR
TAUENTZIEN STR
AUGSBURGER ST
STR
STR
AUGSBURGER STR R
AugsburgerAugsburger
StrasseStrasse 0 yards 400
LIE TZENB UR GE R S T R A SSE E
LIE TZENB UR GE R S T R A SS
Visitors walking up the interior of the Reichstag Dome For map symbols see back flap
086-087_EW_Germany.indd 86 09/10/17 12:57 pm 086-087_EW_Germany.indd 87 09/10/17 12:57 pm

BERLIN AREA B Y AREA  87

WESTERN CENTRE

This part of Berlin includes the areas of Potsdamer Platz is now an ultra-modern
Tiergarten, Charlottenburg and parts development, built on the wasteland
of Kreuzberg, as well as a small section of that formerly divided East and West Berlin.
Mitte, which used to belong to East Berlin. Although the eastern part of Charlotten-
Tiergarten, which was once a royal hunting burg does not feature a great number of
estate, became a park in the 18th century. historic buildings, it is one of the city’s
It survives as a park to this day, although most attractive districts, which, after
in an altered form. World War II, became the commercial and
To the south of Tiergarten is the Kultur- cultural centre of West Berlin. Kreuzberg
forum – a large centre of museums and is a lively area that is now populated
other cultural establishments, which was by immigrants, artists and affluent
created after World War II. The neigh bouring young professionals.
Sights at a Glance
Museums and Galleries Streets and Squares
3 Käthe-Kollwitz-Museum 2 Kurfürstendamm (Ku’damm)
7 Bauhaus-Archiv 4 Zoologischer Garten
8 Bendlerblock 5 Tiergarten
9 Gemäldegalerie t Potsdamer Platz
0 Kupferstichkabinett und Churches
Kunstbibliothek
q Neue Nationalgalerie 1 Kaiser-Wilhelm-Gedächtniskirche
w Kunstgewerbemuseum Historic Buildings and
r Musikinstrumenten-Museum Monuments
u Regierungsviertel 6 Siegessäule
i Hamburger Bahnhof e Philharmonie
o Museum für Naturkunde y Reichstag Naturkundemuseum C H A U S S E E S T R A S S E
INVALID ENS TR A S SE
INVA LI D EN S T RASS E HANNOVERSC H E STR FRIEDRICHSTRASSE
Oranienburger
Tor
Hauptbahnhof
PAULSTRASSE L ÜNEBURGER STR. ALT-MOABIT L U I S E N S T R A S S E REINHARDTSTRASSE


See also Street Finder maps S p r e e Bundestag
pp119–122 PLATZ DER
REPUBLIK
SCHEIDEMANNSTR
JOHN-FOSTER-
DULLES-ALLEE
SPREEWEG ST RASS E DE S 17. J UNI
KLEINER
STERN
ST RASSE DES 17. JUNI TIERGARTEN-TUNNEL E B E R T S T R A S S E
TIERGAR TEN
FAS ANENSTRASSE T I E R G A R T E N - S T R A S S E
HOFJÄGERALLEE
ZOOLOGISCHER
GARTEN ST ÜLERSTRASSE POTSDAMER STR
Zoologischer STAUFFENBERGSTR. Potsdamer
Platz
Garten HEYDT STR
BUDAPESTER STR REICHPIETSCHUFER
KANTSTR. L Ü T Z OWU F E R S C H ÖN E B E R G ER U F E R
KURFÜRSTENDAMM Kurfürsten- KURFÜRSTENSTRASSE
damm
Wittenbergplatz
FASANEN- Uhlandstr. NÜRNBERGER STRASSE AN DER URANIA 0 metres 400
TAUENTZIEN STR
AUGSBURGER STR
STR
Augsburger
Strasse 0 yards 400
LIE TZENB UR GE R S T R A SSE
Visitors walking up the interior of the Reichstag Dome For map symbols see back flap
086-087_EW_Germany.indd 87 09/10/17 12:57 pm

88  BERLIN AREA B Y AREA WESTERN CENTRE  89


Street-by-Street: Kulturforum e . Philharmonie
Its exterior covered in
The idea of creating a new cultural centre in w . Kunstgewerbe- a layer of golden
West Berlin was first mooted in 1956. The first museum aluminium, the Berlin
Philharmonic concert
building to go up was the Berlin Philharmonic Among the collection hall is known all over WESTERN CENTRE
at the Museum of Arts
concert hall, built from 1960 to 1963 to an and Crafts you can see the world for its
innovative design by Hans Scharoun. Most other this intricately carved superb acoustics. EASTERN
CENTRE
elements of the Kulturforum were realized silver and ivory tankard,
between 1961 and 1987, and came from such made in an Augsburg Locator Map
workshop around 1640.
famous architects as Ludwig Mies van der Rohe. See Street Finder maps 1 & 3
The area is now a major cultural centre that
attracts millions of visitors every year.
0 Kupferstichkabinett
The large collection of
prints and drawings
owned by this gallery
includes this portrait of
Albrecht Dürer’s mother.



P O T S D A M E R S T R A S S E r Musikinstrumenten-Museum

This harpsichord is part of a collection
of musical instruments dating from the
S C H A R O U N S T R A S S E
M A T THÄIKIRCH M A T THÄIKIRCH 16th to the 20th century.
PL A TZPL A TZ
St-Matthäus-Kirche
This 19th-century church
stands out among the
modern buildings of
the Kulturforum.

S I G I S M U N D S T R A S S
S I G I S M U N D S T R A S S E E





9 . Gemäldegalerie P O T S D A M E R S T R A S S E
Among the most important
works of the old masters
exhibited in this gallery of fine
art is this Madonna in Church R E I C H P I E T S C H U F E R
by Jan van Eyck (around 1425).
Kunstbibliothek L A N D W E H R K A N A L
is an Art Library that
boasts a rich collection
of books, graphic art
and drawings.
0 metres 50
0 yards 50 q Neue Nationalgalerie
Sculptures by Henry Moore and Neue Staatsbibliothek
Key Alexander Calder stand outside this Hans Scharoun designed
streamlined building, designed by this public lending and
Suggested route Ludwig Mies van der Rohe. research library built in 1978.
For hotels and restaurants in this area see pp492–3 and pp510–11


088-089_EW_Germany.indd 88 09/10/17 12:58 pm 088-089_EW_Germany.indd 89 09/10/17 12:58 pm

WESTERN CENTRE  89



e . Philharmonie
Its exterior covered in
a layer of golden
aluminium, the Berlin
Philharmonic concert
hall is known all over WESTERN CENTRE
the world for its
superb acoustics. EASTERN
CENTRE
Locator Map
See Street Finder maps 1 & 3















P O T S D A M E R S T R A S S E r Musikinstrumenten-Museum

This harpsichord is part of a collection
of musical instruments dating from the
S C H A R O U N S T R A S S E
M A T THÄIKIRCH 16th to the 20th century.
PL A TZ
St-Matthäus-Kirche
This 19th-century church
stands out among the
modern buildings of
the Kulturforum.

S I G I S M U N D S T R A S S E

P O T S D A M E R S T R A S S E

















Neue Staatsbibliothek
Hans Scharoun designed
this public lending and
research library built in 1978.




088-089_EW_Germany.indd 89 09/10/17 12:58 pm

90  BERLIN AREA B Y AREA WESTERN CENTRE  91

1 Kaiser-Wilhelm-Gedächtnis-Kirche 2 Ku’damm 5 Tiergarten

Map 2 A5, 2 B4.  Kurfürsten damm. Map 2 C3, 3 D3, E3, F3.
This church-monument is one of Berlin’s most famous VISITORS’ CHECKLIST @ 109, 110, X10, M19, M29, M46.  Tiergarten or Bellevue.
landmarks. The vast Neo-Romanesque church was designed @ 100, 187, 341.
by Franz Schwechten. It was consecrated in 1895 and Practical Information The eastern area of the Once a forest used as
Breitscheidplatz.
Charlottenburg region, around
destroyed by bombs in 1943. After the war the ruins were Map 2 B4. Tel (030) 218 50 23. the boulevard known as the Elector’s hunting
removed, leaving only the front tower, at the base of which Open Church: 9am–7pm daily. Kurfürstendamm (the Ku’damm), reserve, the Tiergarten
the Gedenkhalle (Memorial Hall) is situated. This hall Gedenk halle: 10am–6pm Mon–Fri, was developed in the 19th was transformed into a
documents the church’s history and contains some original 10am–5:30pm Sat, noon–5:30pm century. Luxurious buildings landscaped park by Peter
Sun. 5 10am & 6pm Sun. &
ceiling mosaics, marble reliefs and liturgical objects. In 1963, ∑ gedaechtniskirche-berlin.de were constructed along the Joseph Lenné in the 1830s.
Egon Eiermann designed a new octagonal church in blue Transport Ku’damm, while the areas of A tranquil area within the Tiergarten A Triumphal Avenue,
Breitscheidplatz and
lined with statues of the
glass and a new freestanding bell tower.  &  Zoologischer Garten or Wittenbergplatz filled up with country’s rulers and
 Kurfürstendamm. hotels and department stores. problems of the poor, as well statesmen, was built in the
@ 100, 200, X-9. After World War II, with the old as human suffering. eastern section at the end
Tower Ruins centre (Mitte) situated in East This museum displays the of the 19th century.
The damaged roof of the former Berlin, Charlottenburg became work of Käthe Kollwitz and World War II inflicted huge
church has become one of the the centre of West Berlin. After includes posters, drawings and damage, but replanting has
best-known symbols of Berlin.
the war the area was transformed sculptures as well as documents, restored the Tiergarten and
into the heart of West Berlin, such as letters and photographs. its avenues are bordered
with dozens of new company with statues of figures such as
Tower Clock headquarters and trade centres 4 Zoologischer Johann Wolfgang von Goethe
being built. It is now Berlin’s and Richard Wagner.
main shopping street. Garten Near the lake and the
Zoological Garden Landwehrkanal are memorials
Hardenbergplatz 8 / Budapester Straße to Karl Liebknecht and Rosa
34. Map 2 B3, C3, 2 B4, C4. Tel (030) 25 Luxemburg, the leaders of the
40 10.  &  Zoologischer Garten. Spartakus movement who were
@ M46, X9, X10, X34, 100, 109, 149, assassinated in 1918.
200, 245, 249. Open spring & summer:
9am–6:30pm daily, autumn: 9am–
5:30pm daily, winter: 9am–4:30pm 6 Siegessäule
. Kaiser’s Mosaic daily. & ∑ zoo-berlin.de
Kaiser Heinrich I, seated on Triumphal Column
his throne, is depicted in Großer Stern. Map 3 D2. 
this elaborate mosaic. This is actually part of the Hansaplatz. Bellevue. @ 100, 187,
Tiergarten and dates from 1844, 106. Open Apr–Oct: 9:30am–6:30pm
making it one of Germany’s
Main Altar oldest zoos. In addition to exotic Mon–Fri, 9:30am–7pm Sat & Sun;
The massive figure of animals such as kiwis and Nov–Mar: 10am–5pm Mon–Fri,
Christ on the Cross is the axolotis, the zoo is home to many 10am–5:30pm Sat & Sun.
work of Karl Hemmeter.
endangered species as well as This column, based on a design
Mother and Child, from the rare domestic animal breeds. by Johann Heinrich Strack,
Käthe-Kollwitz-Museum A monkey house contains a was built to commemorate
family of gorillas, orang-utans victory in the Prusso-Danish
3 Käthe-Kollwitz- and mandrills and there is a war of 1864. After further
Museum darkened pavilion for viewing Prussian victories in wars
nocturnal animals. A glazed against Austria (1866) and
Fasanenstraße 24. Map 2 A5. Tel (030) wall in the hippopotamus France (1871), a gilded figure
882 52 10.  Uhlandstraße or pool enables visitors to representing Victory, known
Kurfürstendamm. @ 109, 110, X10, observe these enormous as the “Goldelse”, was added
M19, M29, 249. Open 11am–6pm animals in the water. The large to the top. It originally stood
daily. & 9 ∑ kaethe-kollwitz.de aquarium contains sharks, in front of the Reichstag
piranhas and unusual coral building but was moved to its
This small private museum reef species. There is also a present location by the Nazi
provides a unique oppor tunity huge terrarium with an government in 1938. The base
to become acquainted with the overgrown jungle that is is decorated with bas-reliefs
work of Käthe Kollwitz (1867– home to some crocodiles. commemorating battles, while
Main entrance 1945). Born in Königsberg, the Just to the west of the higher up a mosaic frieze
Figure of Christ artist settled in Berlin where she zoo on Jebenstrasse depicts the founding of
This vast sculpture by married a doctor who worked in is the Newton- the German Empire in
Hermann Schaper once Prenz lauer Berg, a working-class Sammlung, a gallery 1871. An observation
decorated the church altar. It district. Her drawings and of photographs by Siegessäule terrace offers mag-
survived World War II damage. sculptures portrayed the social Helmut Newton. (Triumphal Column) nificent views.
For hotels and restaurants in this area see pp492–3 and pp510–11
090-091_EW_Germany.indd 90 09/10/17 12:46 pm 090-091_EW_Germany.indd 91 09/10/17 12:46 pm

WESTERN CENTRE  91


2 Ku’damm 5 Tiergarten
Map 2 A5, 2 B4.  Kurfürsten damm. Map 2 C3, 3 D3, E3, F3.
@ 109, 110, X10, M19, M29, M46.  Tiergarten or Bellevue.
@ 100, 187, 341.
The eastern area of the
Charlottenburg region, around Once a forest used as
the boulevard known as the Elector’s hunting
Kurfürstendamm (the Ku’damm), reserve, the Tiergarten
was developed in the 19th was transformed into a
century. Luxurious buildings landscaped park by Peter
were constructed along the Joseph Lenné in the 1830s.
Ku’damm, while the areas of A Triumphal Avenue,
Breitscheidplatz and A tranquil area within the Tiergarten lined with statues of the
Wittenbergplatz filled up with country’s rulers and
hotels and department stores. problems of the poor, as well statesmen, was built in the
After World War II, with the old as human suffering. eastern section at the end
centre (Mitte) situated in East This museum displays the of the 19th century.
Berlin, Charlottenburg became work of Käthe Kollwitz and World War II inflicted huge
the centre of West Berlin. After includes posters, drawings and damage, but replanting has
the war the area was transformed sculptures as well as documents, restored the Tiergarten and
into the heart of West Berlin, such as letters and photographs. its avenues are bordered
with dozens of new company with statues of figures such as
headquarters and trade centres 4 Zoologischer Johann Wolfgang von Goethe
being built. It is now Berlin’s and Richard Wagner.
main shopping street. Garten Near the lake and the
Zoological Garden Landwehrkanal are memorials
Hardenbergplatz 8 / Budapester Straße to Karl Liebknecht and Rosa
34. Map 2 B3, C3, 2 B4, C4. Tel (030) 25 Luxemburg, the leaders of the
40 10.  &  Zoologischer Garten. Spartakus movement who were
@ M46, X9, X10, X34, 100, 109, 149, assassinated in 1918.
200, 245, 249. Open spring & summer:
9am–6:30pm daily, autumn: 9am–
5:30pm daily, winter: 9am–4:30pm 6 Siegessäule
daily. & ∑ zoo-berlin.de Triumphal Column
This is actually part of the Großer Stern. Map 3 D2. 
Hansaplatz. Bellevue. @ 100, 187,
Tiergarten and dates from 1844, 106. Open Apr–Oct: 9:30am–6:30pm
making it one of Germany’s Mon–Fri, 9:30am–7pm Sat & Sun;
oldest zoos. In addition to exotic Nov–Mar: 10am–5pm Mon–Fri,
animals such as kiwis and 10am–5:30pm Sat & Sun.
axolotis, the zoo is home to many
endangered species as well as This column, based on a design
Mother and Child, from the rare domestic animal breeds. by Johann Heinrich Strack,
Käthe-Kollwitz-Museum A monkey house contains a was built to commemorate
family of gorillas, orang-utans victory in the Prusso-Danish
3 Käthe-Kollwitz- and mandrills and there is a war of 1864. After further
Museum darkened pavilion for viewing Prussian victories in wars
nocturnal animals. A glazed against Austria (1866) and
Fasanenstraße 24. Map 2 A5. Tel (030) wall in the hippopotamus France (1871), a gilded figure
882 52 10.  Uhlandstraße or pool enables visitors to representing Victory, known
Kurfürstendamm. @ 109, 110, X10, observe these enormous as the “Goldelse”, was added
M19, M29, 249. Open 11am–6pm animals in the water. The large to the top. It originally stood
daily. & 9 ∑ kaethe-kollwitz.de aquarium contains sharks, in front of the Reichstag
piranhas and unusual coral building but was moved to its
This small private museum reef species. There is also a present location by the Nazi
provides a unique oppor tunity huge terrarium with an government in 1938. The base
to become acquainted with the overgrown jungle that is is decorated with bas-reliefs
work of Käthe Kollwitz (1867– home to some crocodiles. commemorating battles, while
1945). Born in Königsberg, the Just to the west of the higher up a mosaic frieze
artist settled in Berlin where she zoo on Jebenstrasse depicts the founding of
married a doctor who worked in is the Newton- the German Empire in
Prenz lauer Berg, a working-class Sammlung, a gallery 1871. An observation
district. Her drawings and of photographs by Siegessäule terrace offers mag-
sculptures portrayed the social Helmut Newton. (Triumphal Column) nificent views.




090-091_EW_Germany.indd 91 09/10/17 12:46 pm

92  BERLIN AREA B Y AREA WESTERN CENTRE  93


Berlin were united in 1994 in design by Hans Scharoun, the
the Kupferstich kabinett (Print Philharmonie pioneered a new
Gallery), whose collection concept for concert hall interiors,
includes around 2,000 with a podium occupying the
engraver’s plates, over 520,000 central section of the pentagonal
prints and 80,000 drawings hall, around which are galleries
and watercolours. for the public. The exterior is
The Kunstbibliothek (Art remini scent of a circus tent. The
Library) is not only a library with gilded exterior was added
a range of publications about between 1978 and 1981.
the arts; it is also a museum Between 1984 and 1987 the
with an extensive collection of Kammermusiksaal, which was
posters, advertisements and designed by Edgar Wisniewski
The captivating, streamlined buildings of the Bauhaus-Archiv other practical forms of design. on the basis of sketches by
Scharoun, was added to the
7 Bauhaus-Archiv built during the Third Reich as Philharmonie. This building
Klingelhöferstraße 14. Map 3 D4, E4. an extension to the German consolidates the aesthetics of the
Tel (030) 254 00 20.  Nollen dorf- State Naval Offices. During World earlier structure by featuring a
platz. @ 100, 187, M29. Open 10am– War II they were the headquarters central multi-sided space covered
5pm Wed–Mon. 7 ∑ bauhaus.de of the Wehrmacht (German by a fanciful tent-like roof.
Army). It was here that a group Cembalo harpsichords on display at the Musikinstrumenten-Museum
The Bauhaus school of art, started of officers planned their assas-
by Walter Gropius in 1919, was sination attempt on Hitler on 20 other European countries are the civic treasury in the town of r Musikinstru­
one of the most influential art July 1944. When the attempt led included, as are examples of Lüneberg. In addition, there are menten­Museum
institutions of the 20th century. by Claus Schenk von Stauffenberg post-World War II art. fine examples of Italian majolica,
Originally based in Weimar, it failed, he and his fellow conspir- and 18th- and 19th-century Tiergartenstraße 1. Map 1 D5. Tel
inspired many artists and ators were arrested and death w Kunstgewerbe­ German, French and Italian (030) 25 48 11 78.  &  Potsdamer
architects. Staff and students sentences passed. Stauffenberg, museum glass, porcelain and furniture. Platz. @ 200. Open 9am–5pm Tue–
included Mies van der Rohe, Friedrich Olbricht, Werner von The collection also includes a Wed & Fri, 9am–8pm Thu, 10am–5pm
Paul Klee and Wassily Kandinsky. Haeften, and Ritter Mertz von Matthäikirchplatz. Map 3 F3. Tel (030) historical fashion gallery. Sat & Sun. Wurlitzer Organ
demonstration: noon Sat. & 7
The school moved to Berlin in Quirn heim were shot in the Munch’s lithograph Girl on a Beach, 266 42 42 42.  Potsdamer Platz. ∑ mim­berlin.de
1932 from Dessau, but was Bendler block courtyard. A Kupferstichkabinett  Potsdamer Platz or Mendelssohn-
closed by the Nazis in 1933. monument commemorating Bartholdy-Park. @ 100, 123, 148, 200, e Philharmonie and Behind the Philharmonie, in
After the war, the Bauhaus- this event, designed by Richard M29, M41. Open 10am–6pm Tue–Fri, Kammermusiksaal a small building designed by
Archiv was relocated to Scheibe in 1953, stands where q Neue 11am–6pm Sat & Sun. & 7 ^ Philharmonic and Chamber Edgar Wisniewski and Hans
Darmstadt. In 1964 Walter the executions were carried out. Nationalgalerie Music Hall Scharoun between 1979 and
Gropius designed a building to On the upper floor of the build- This museum holds a rich 1984, the fascinating Museum
house the collection but, in 1971, ing there is an exhibition which Potsdamer Straße 50. Map 3 F4. collection embracing many Herbert-von-Karajan-Straße 1. Map 3 of Musical Instruments houses
the archive was moved to Berlin documents the history of the  &  Potsdamer Platz or  genres of craft and decorative F3. Tel (030) 25 48 80.  &  a collection dating from 1888.
and the design was adapted to German anti-Nazi movements. Mendelssohn-Bartholdy-Park. @ art, from the early Middle Ages Potsdamer Platz or  Mendelssohn- Intriguing displays trace the
the new site. As Gropius had died M48, M85, 200, M29, M41. Closed for a to the modern day. Goldwork is Bartholdy-Park. @ 200, M29 M41. development of each
in 1969, Alexander Cvijanovic major renovation project until 2020. especially well represented, as instrument from the 16th
& 7
took over the project. Built 9 Gemäldegalerie are metal items from the Middle Home to one of the most century to the present day.
between 1976 and 1979, the See pp94–5. After World War II, when this Ages. Among the most valuable renowned orchestras in Europe, Most spectacular of all is a
gleaming white building, with its magnificent collection of exhibits is a collection of this unusual building is among working Wurlitzer cinema
glass-panelled gables, houses modern art ended up in West medieval goldwork from the the finest postwar architectural organ dating from 1929.
the archive, library and 0 Kupferstich- Berlin, the commission to church treasures of Enger and the achievements in Europe. Built Saturday demonstrations of
exhibition halls. design a suitable building to Guelph treasury from Brunswick. between 1960 and 1963 to a its impressive sounds attract
kabinett und house it was given to Mies van The museum also takes great enthusiastic crowds. There is
Kunstbibliothek der Rohe. The result is a striking pride in its collection of late also an archive and
8 Bendlerblock Matthäikirchplatz 8. Map 3 F3. building with a flat steel roof Gothic and Renaissance a library.
(Gedenkstätte Tel (030) 266 42 42 42.  &  over a glass hall, which is silver from
supported only by six slender
Deutscher Potsdamer Platz or  Mendelssohn- interior struts.
Bartholdy-Park. @ M48, M85, 200,
Widerstand) M29, M41. Kupferstichkabinett The collection comprises
Exhibitions: 10am–6pm Tue–Fri, largely 20th-century art, but
Stauffenbergstraße 13–14. Map 3 E4, 11am–6pm Sat & Sun. Studio gallery: begins with artists of the late
F4. Tel (030) 26 99 50 00.  Mendels- 9am–4pm Tue–Fri. Kunstbibliothek 19th century, such as Edvard
sohn-Bartholdy-Park. @ M29, M48. Exhibits: 10am–6pm Tue–Fri, Munch. German art is well
Open 9am–6pm Mon–Wed & Fri, 11am–6pm Sat & Sun. Library: 9am– represented: as well as the
9am–8pm Thu, 10am–6pm Sat & Sun. 4pm Tue–Fri. & 7 ^ Bauhaus movement, the gallery
Closed 1 Jan, 24, 25 & 31 Dec.
shows works by exponents of a
The collection of buildings The print collections of galleries crass realism, such as Otto Dix.
known as the Bendlerblock was in the former East and West The most celebrated artists of The tent-like gilded exterior of the Philharmonie and Kammermusiksaal
For hotels and restaurants in this area see pp492–3 and pp510–11

092-093_EW_Germany.indd 92 09/10/17 12:58 pm 092-093_EW_Germany.indd 93 09/10/17 12:58 pm
Eyewitness Travel LAYERS PRINTED:
Catalogue template “UK” LAYER
(Source v2.2)
Date 15th January 2013
Size 125mm x 217mm

WESTERN CENTRE  93


design by Hans Scharoun, the
Philharmonie pioneered a new
concept for concert hall interiors,
with a podium occupying the
central section of the pentagonal
hall, around which are galleries
for the public. The exterior is
remini scent of a circus tent. The
gilded exterior was added
between 1978 and 1981.
Between 1984 and 1987 the
Kammermusiksaal, which was
designed by Edgar Wisniewski
on the basis of sketches by
Scharoun, was added to the
Philharmonie. This building
consolidates the aesthetics of the
earlier structure by featuring a
central multi-sided space covered
by a fanciful tent-like roof.
Cembalo harpsichords on display at the Musikinstrumenten-Museum
other European countries are the civic treasury in the town of r Musikinstru­
included, as are examples of Lüneberg. In addition, there are menten­Museum
post-World War II art. fine examples of Italian majolica,
and 18th- and 19th-century Tiergartenstraße 1. Map 1 D5. Tel
w Kunstgewerbe­ German, French and Italian (030) 25 48 11 78.  &  Potsdamer
Platz. @ 200. Open 9am–5pm Tue–
museum glass, porcelain and furniture. Wed & Fri, 9am–8pm Thu, 10am–5pm
The collection also includes a
Matthäikirchplatz. Map 3 F3. Tel (030) historical fashion gallery. Sat & Sun. Wurlitzer Organ
demonstration: noon Sat. & 7
266 42 42 42.  Potsdamer Platz. ∑ mim­berlin.de
 Potsdamer Platz or Mendelssohn-
Bartholdy-Park. @ 100, 123, 148, 200, e Philharmonie and Behind the Philharmonie, in
M29, M41. Open 10am–6pm Tue–Fri, a small building designed by
11am–6pm Sat & Sun. & 7 ^ Kammermusiksaal Edgar Wisniewski and Hans
Philharmonic and Chamber
Music Hall Scharoun between 1979 and
This museum holds a rich 1984, the fascinating Museum
collection embracing many Herbert-von-Karajan-Straße 1. Map 3 of Musical Instruments houses
genres of craft and decorative F3. Tel (030) 25 48 80.  &  a collection dating from 1888.
art, from the early Middle Ages Potsdamer Platz or  Mendelssohn- Intriguing displays trace the
to the modern day. Goldwork is Bartholdy-Park. @ 200, M29 M41. development of each
especially well represented, as instrument from the 16th
are metal items from the Middle Home to one of the most century to the present day.
Ages. Among the most valuable renowned orchestras in Europe, Most spectacular of all is a
exhibits is a collection of this unusual building is among working Wurlitzer cinema
medieval goldwork from the the finest postwar architectural organ dating from 1929.
church treasures of Enger and the achievements in Europe. Built Saturday demonstrations of
Guelph treasury from Brunswick. between 1960 and 1963 to a its impressive sounds attract
The museum also takes great enthusiastic crowds. There is
pride in its collection of late also an archive and
Gothic and Renaissance a library.
silver from










The tent-like gilded exterior of the Philharmonie and Kammermusiksaal




092-093_EW_Germany.indd 93 09/10/17 12:58 pm

94  BERLIN AREA B Y AREA WESTERN CENTRE  95

9 Gemäldegalerie The Glass of Wine VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
(1661/62)
The Gemäldegalerie collection is exceptional in the Jan Vermeer’s carefully Practical Information
composed picture of a
consistently high quality of its paintings. Unlike those young woman drinking Matthäikirchplatz.
in other collections, they were chosen by specialists wine with a young man Map 3 F3. Tel (030) 266 42 42 42.
Open 10am–6pm Tue–Wed &
who, from the end of the 18th century, systematically gently hints at the Fri, 10am–8pm Thu, 11am–6pm
acquired pictures to represent all the major European relationship developing Sat & Sun. Closed 24 & 31 Dec.
between them.
schools. Originally displayed in the Altes Museum & d m 7 ^ =
building (see p79), the paintings achieved independent ∑ smb.museum
status in 1904 when they were moved to what is now Transport
the Bode-Museum (see p82). After the division of Berlin 20   Potsdamer Platz.
20
 Mendelssohn-Bartholdy-Park.
in 1945, part of the collection was kept in the Bode- 21 18 @ M29, M41, 200.
21
Museum, while the majority ended up in the Dahlem . Cupid Victorious (1602) 22 17
22
Museum (see p108). Following reunification, and with Inspired by Virgil’s Omnia XI
vincit Amor, Caravaggio
XI
the building of a new home as part of the Kulturforum depicted a playful god 23 Love in the
French Theatre
development, this unique collection has finally been trampling over the 24 16 This picture has a
united again. symbols of Culture, 19 X 15 companion piece
19
Fame, Knowledge 25 XII
XII
and Power. 14 called Love in the Italian
Theatre. Both are by
XIII
27
Madonna with Child 13 French painter, Jean-
28
26
IX
10
and Angels XIV Antoine Watteau
around.1477) 12 (1684–1721).
A frequent subject 29
of Sandro Botticelli, the 30 XV VIII 11
Madonna and Child 31
are depicted XVI VII 9
surrounded by angels 32 8 . Portrait of Hendrickje Stoffels
holding lilies to 33 VI (1656–57)
VI
symbolize purity. 34 XVII 7 Rembrandt’s portrait of his lover,
Hendrickje Stoffels, is typical of his work
V
V
35
6
in the way it focuses on the subject and
36
ignores the background.
5
5
37
Key
IV
4
4
38
III 13th–16th-century German
painting
3
39 XVIII 3
II
Circular lobby 40 2 14th–16th-century Dutch
2
and French painting
leading to
41 1 17th-century Flemish and
the galleries
Dutch painting
I 18th-century French, English and
German painting
Gallery Guide 17th–18th-century Italian painting,
The main gallery contains over 900 17th-century German, French and
Spanish painting
masterpieces grouped by period and country
of origin. These are complemented by around 13th–16th-century Italian painting
400 works in the gallery on the lower floor. 16th–18th-century miniatures
Birth of Christ (around 1480)
This beautiful religious painting is
one of the few surviving paintings
on wood by Martin Schongauer.
Portrait of Hieronymus
Holzschuher (1526) . Netherlandish
Albrecht Dürer painted Proverbs (1559)
this affectionate portrait Pieter Bruegel managed to
of his friend, who was illustrate more than 100
the mayor of Nuremberg. Main entrance proverbs in this painting.
For hotels and restaurants in this area see pp492–3 and pp510–11
094-095_EW_Germany.indd 94 09/10/17 12:58 pm 094-095_EW_Germany.indd 95 09/10/17 12:58 pm

WESTERN CENTRE  95


The Glass of Wine VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
(1661/62)
Jan Vermeer’s carefully Practical Information
composed picture of a Matthäikirchplatz.
young woman drinking Map 3 F3. Tel (030) 266 42 42 42.
wine with a young man Open 10am–6pm Tue–Wed &
gently hints at the Fri, 10am–8pm Thu, 11am–6pm
relationship developing Sat & Sun. Closed 24 & 31 Dec.
between them.
& d m 7 ^ =
∑ smb.museum
Transport
  Potsdamer Platz.
20
 Mendelssohn-Bartholdy-Park.
21
@ M29, M41, 200.
18
22 17
XI
Love in the
French Theatre
16
This picture has a
companion piece
19
X
15
XII
called Love in the Italian
14
Theatre. Both are by
13 French painter, Jean-
10
IX
Antoine Watteau
(1684–1721).
12
VIII
11
9
VII
8 . Portrait of Hendrickje Stoffels
(1656–57)
VI
Rembrandt’s portrait of his lover,
7
Hendrickje Stoffels, is typical of his work
V
in the way it focuses on the subject and
6
ignores the background.
5
Key
4
13th–16th-century German
painting
3
14th–16th-century Dutch
and French painting
2
17th-century Flemish and
Dutch painting
18th-century French, English and
German painting
Gallery Guide 17th–18th-century Italian painting,
The main gallery contains over 900 17th-century German, French and
Spanish painting
masterpieces grouped by period and country
of origin. These are complemented by around 13th–16th-century Italian painting
400 works in the gallery on the lower floor. 16th–18th-century miniatures
. Netherlandish
Proverbs (1559)
Pieter Bruegel managed to
illustrate more than 100
proverbs in this painting.
094-095_EW_Germany.indd 95 09/10/17 12:58 pm

96  BERLIN AREA B Y AREA WESTERN CENTRE  97

t Potsdamer Platz o Museum für
Naturkunde
In the short space of a few years, a modern financial and business district sprang up on the Natural History Museum
vast empty wasteland surrounding the Potsdamer Platz . It boasts splendid Invalidenstraße 43. Map 1 E2.
constructions designed by Renzo Piano, Arata Isozaki and Helmut Jahn. Tel (030) 20 93 85 91.  Natur kunde-
As well as office blocks, the area has many public buildings, including museum. @ 147, 245. v M6, M8, 12.
cinemas and a theatre, as well as a huge shopping centre – the Open 9:30am–6pm Tue–Fri, 10am–
Arkaden, plus luxury hotels, restaurants and several bars. 6pm Sat & Sun. Closed 24, 25 & 31 Dec.
& ∑ naturkundemuseum.berlin
The Beisheim Center has a Occupying a purpose-built
mix of exclusive apartments Neo-Renaissance building
and international hotels. dating from 1883 and 1889,
this is one of the biggest natural
The Reichstag, crowned by a dome designed by Sir Norman Foster history museums in the world,
with a collection containing
The Sony y Reichstag and 2003 to accomodate the over 30 million exhibits.
Center
Platz der Republik. Map 1 E4, 4 A1, A2. relocation of the German Despite several extensions
Tel (030) 22 73 21 52.  Bundestag. government from Bonn in 1999. and renovations, it has
PO T SD AMER  Brandenburger Tor. @ 100, M85. Most of the buildings offer maintained its unique old-
PL A TZ
Open 8am–midnight daily (last limited access to the public, fashioned atmosphere.
admission 10pm); bookings for a time but several art and political The highlights are the world’s
slot to visit or for a restaurant exhibitions are open daily and largest dinosaur skeleton, housed
reservation are required at least a few art and architecture tours run in the glass-covered courtyard,
E
The Sony Tower, designed N days in advance. 8 at weekends. and the original skeleton of a
T
by Helmut Jahn, is the most L Tyrannosaurus rex called Tristan
modern building in Potsdamer A S Built to house the German i Hamburger Otto. The colossal brachiosaurus
Platz and is curved on one side T Parliament, the Reichstag was measures 23 m (75 ft) long and
and flat on the other. U N constructed between 1884 and Bahnhof 12 m (39 ft) high. It was found in
1894 to a New-Renaissance Invalidenstraße 50/51. Map 1 D2, B2. Tanzania, in 1909, by a German
G
S
design by Paul Wallot. Tel (030) 266 42 42 42. fossil-hunting expedition.
S
This office building, the T R In February 1933, a fire  Zinnowitzerstraße.  Haupt- The adjacent rooms feature
tallest in Potsdamer Platz, has A destroyed the main hall, and bahnhof. @M41, TXL, 120, 123, 147, collections of fish, birds and
an observation terrace and café S S 245. v M6, M8, 12. Open 10am–6pm
on the 24th and 25th floors. E the impending world war mammals. Favourites with
delayed rebuilding work for Tue–Wed & Fri, 10am–8pm Thu, children include Bobby the
decades. Between 1957 and 11am–6pm Sat & Sun. Closed Mon, Gorilla, who lived in Berlin Zoo
Arkaden, opened in autumn 1998, 1972, the reconstructed 24 & 31 Dec. 7 ^ & from 1928 until 1935, and the
immediately became one of the Reichstag was the meeting- famous polar bear Knut. The
city’s favourite shopping centres. place for the lower house of the This museum is situated in a museum also has an impres-
German Parliament as well as a Neo-Renaissance building, sive collec tion of minerals
Theater am Potsdamer Platz, spectacular backdrop for formerly the Hamburg Railway and meteorites.
designed by Italian architect Renzo festivals and rock concerts. station, which dates from 1847.
Piano, hosts musicals throughout the After German reunification in It stood vacant after World War II
year and is the main location for
Berlinale, the annual film festival. 1990, the Reichstag was the first but, following refurbishment by
meeting place of a newly Josef Paul Kleihues, it was
elected Bundestag. The opened to the public
most recent update, by in 1996. The neon
Sir Norman Foster, installation
transformed the surrounding the
Reichstag into a façade is the work
meeting hall. of Dan Flavin. The
museum houses
u Regierungs- a magnificent
collection of contemp-
viertel orary art, including the
Government Quarter work of Erich Marx and,
from 2004, the
Map 1 D3, D4 ,E3, E4; 4, 4
A1, A2.  Bundestag. Jeff and Ilona (1991), world-renowned
 Brandenburger Tor. Hamburger Bahnhof Flick collection. The
@ 100, M85. result is one of the
The Debis House, 0 metres 100 L A N D W E H R K A N A L best modern art museums to
designed by Italian 0 yards 100 Located in the bend of the River be found in Europe, which
architect Renzo Piano. Spree, the new government features not only art, but also Brachiosaurus skeleton in the
quarter was built between 1993 film, video, music and design. Museum für Naturkunde
For hotels and restaurants in this area see pp492–3 and pp510–11
096-097_EW_Germany.indd 96 09/10/17 12:58 pm 096-097_EW_Germany.indd 97 09/10/17 12:58 pm

WESTERN CENTRE  97

o Museum für
Naturkunde
Natural History Museum
Invalidenstraße 43. Map 1 E2.
Tel (030) 20 93 85 91.  Natur kunde-
museum. @ 147, 245. v M6, M8, 12.
Open 9:30am–6pm Tue–Fri, 10am–
6pm Sat & Sun. Closed 24, 25 & 31 Dec.
& ∑ naturkundemuseum.berlin
Occupying a purpose-built
Neo-Renaissance building
dating from 1883 and 1889,
this is one of the biggest natural
The Reichstag, crowned by a dome designed by Sir Norman Foster history museums in the world,
with a collection containing
y Reichstag and 2003 to accomodate the over 30 million exhibits.
relocation of the German Despite several extensions
Platz der Republik. Map 1 E4, 4 A1, A2.
Tel (030) 22 73 21 52.  Bundestag. government from Bonn in 1999. and renovations, it has
 Brandenburger Tor. @ 100, M85. Most of the buildings offer maintained its unique old-
Open 8am–midnight daily (last limited access to the public, fashioned atmosphere.
admission 10pm); bookings for a time but several art and political The highlights are the world’s
slot to visit or for a restaurant exhibitions are open daily and largest dinosaur skeleton, housed
reservation are required at least a few art and architecture tours run in the glass-covered courtyard,
days in advance. 8 at weekends. and the original skeleton of a
Tyrannosaurus rex called Tristan
Built to house the German i Hamburger Otto. The colossal brachiosaurus
Parliament, the Reichstag was Bahnhof measures 23 m (75 ft) long and
constructed between 1884 and 12 m (39 ft) high. It was found in
1894 to a New-Renaissance Invalidenstraße 50/51. Map 1 D2, B2. Tanzania, in 1909, by a German
design by Paul Wallot. Tel (030) 266 42 42 42. fossil-hunting expedition.
In February 1933, a fire  Zinnowitzerstraße.  Haupt- The adjacent rooms feature
destroyed the main hall, and bahnhof. @M41, TXL, 120, 123, 147, collections of fish, birds and
the impending world war 245. v M6, M8, 12. Open 10am–6pm mammals. Favourites with
delayed rebuilding work for Tue–Wed & Fri, 10am–8pm Thu, children include Bobby the
decades. Between 1957 and 11am–6pm Sat & Sun. Closed Mon, Gorilla, who lived in Berlin Zoo
1972, the reconstructed 24 & 31 Dec. 7 ^ & from 1928 until 1935, and the
Reichstag was the meeting- famous polar bear Knut. The
place for the lower house of the This museum is situated in a museum also has an impres-
German Parliament as well as a Neo-Renaissance building, sive collec tion of minerals
spectacular backdrop for formerly the Hamburg Railway and meteorites.
festivals and rock concerts. station, which dates from 1847.
After German reunification in It stood vacant after World War II
1990, the Reichstag was the first but, following refurbishment by
meeting place of a newly Josef Paul Kleihues, it was
elected Bundestag. The opened to the public
most recent update, by in 1996. The neon
Sir Norman Foster, installation
transformed the surrounding the
Reichstag into a façade is the work
meeting hall. of Dan Flavin. The
museum houses
u Regierungs- a magnificent
collection of contemp-
viertel orary art, including the
Government Quarter work of Erich Marx and,
from 2004, the
Map 1 D3, D4 ,E3, E4; 4, 4
A1, A2.  Bundestag. Jeff and Ilona (1991), world-renowned
 Brandenburger Tor. Hamburger Bahnhof Flick collection. The
@ 100, M85. result is one of the
best modern art museums to
Located in the bend of the River be found in Europe, which
Spree, the new government features not only art, but also Brachiosaurus skeleton in the
quarter was built between 1993 film, video, music and design. Museum für Naturkunde




096-097_EW_Germany.indd 97 09/10/17 12:58 pm

BERLIN AREA B Y AREA  99
FURTHER AFIELD


Berlin is a huge city with a unique character the city, thus creating an entirely new city
that has been shaped by the events in its covering nearly 900 sq km (350 sq miles),
history. Until 1920 the city consisted only with a population of 3.8 million. This
of the districts that now comprise mainly metropolis extended to small towns of
Mitte, Tiergarten, Wedding, Prenzlauer Berg, medieval origin, such as Spandau, as well as
Friedrichshain and Kreuzberg. At that time to private manor houses and palaces, towns
the city was surrounded by satellite towns and smart suburban districts. Although the
and villages that had been evolving 20th century changed the face of many
independently over many centuries. of these places, their unique characters have
In 1920, as part of great administrative remained undiminished. Because of this
reform, seven towns, 59 parishes and diversity, a trip to Berlin is like exploring
27 country estates were incorporated into many different towns simultaneously.
Sights at a Glance
Museums and Galleries d Museum Europäischer Kulturen 0 Schloß Tegel
1 Bröhan-Museum h Strandbad Wannsee q Neue Synagoge
2 Sammlung Berggruen j Pfaueninsel s Rathaus Schöneberg
4 Langhansbau k Nikolskoe f Jagdschloss Grunewald
9 Gedenkstätte Plötzensee l Klein Glienicke
w Brecht-Weigel-Gedenkstätte Streets, Squares and Parks
e Anne Frank Zentrum 3 Schloßpark
y Gedenkstätte Berlin- t Karl-Marx-Allee
Hohenschönhausen o Treptower Park
u Stasi-Museum a Victoriapark
g Brücke-Museum
Historic Buildings and
Places of Interest Monuments
7 Olympiastadion 5 Schloß Charlottenburg Key
r Prenzlauer Berg 6 Messegelände
i Köpenick 8 Spandau Central Berlin
p Tempelhofer Feld Outskirts of Berlin
Motorway
Main road
0 kilometres 5 Secondary road
0 miles 5 Railway line

Map of Greater Berlin
Tegel 96
96 2 Wartenberg
Hakenfelde
Berlin Tegel 109
Spandau 111 Weissensee
100
5 96
2/5 Lichtenberg
1/5
1
2 Biesdorf
Gatow Grunewald Wilmersdorf
Karlshorst
Treptow
103
115 100
Kladow Steglitz
Dahlem 113 Köpenick
1
Lichterfelde 96
Wannsee 96 Schönefeld
101
1
Berlin
Schönefeld
Equestrian statue of “The Great Elector” outside Schloß Charlottenburg For additional map symbols see back flap
098-099_EW_Germany.indd 98 09/10/17 12:46 pm 098-099_EW_Germany.indd 99 09/10/17 12:46 pm