Marchis, A - Structura si proiectarea tesaturilor

mba,l,va.aazt;irlilitrrtualrrri.'r,a;it":siraitnp,,fpisi,ta.ir,rr,'trpari-nno,.ttrl.riis1lr,rtrsirhl.uoimlnlr.::[liretui,srtrerg.rarriiori,{s:rpi.r(noplaesOacibi,arillrcif,te,ua.sIltoe:eicltaruleurraaanoslirdnaeifr]tlri'n,cIrniarcrartlitsiietliiriiliciatitscltu:itnliIrnblilitaAttiftt:irlrla'tc.ur'Ulirorirrir.'saiclrallu,t:

i'ffiffiffir,inrl l:r o irrr,,n[r, niir irrliti si trirsti in spttir. ilcest luc:rLl cstc dif icil.
ffiffiffiffiffi
"0 hc rl P

FiS. 333. Destnul iurti Iegiluri strlirlubL' tl,' liirtirLt,r'i.
eu proPorlia
l:1.

,.,{l,i}au,'ratlgoosr-r.it{ritf,r,euc;aiiil-iirl-faeo,t;lrrlnegi.ttelesufr"ei,:Iseeili)aiso.i,lttri;tliiouiIolt/aA.lrrrrui\tl,tlbriilartoatitlrtit}rrd'lctsiuiaittirll.lr|ir,.urprrrcretiia7-prf.raies.tt{ut,str,pt*iei.ecrl:rrrrstr''lLiiilot.lrtlacitIoer)iatdairtttz5rr'aitiiJlarrritirililirtttttr'aisnltttrttttrilrn'rt"l'rif'ititils.io'rrt.'rtirtrpoirtrrlnirrilitrrrzti'iliiil'roctrilaJirctlrruiiulci-a}r.\nil{ti'tira(ai:tru.'r
r,'1,:,girn'uddlio,I|"rrsrion,tipc,rlutoilclroria!aialr.ci:nadtfie.hnliti2torte:ai2lril'.iitriiirieAtisrii:tntr.(-fr:.ca1griroIuslaclarpies1e'ir.iotplaclLpo'iprniot_lcrstiitlqlcpt'aoI.a'iritrrtrrri'glcIliriotritlu:rc' li]oi:t'ctsIloIrrs-rr.rtLirrllrcrtlictriiil{;rr]i:,r'ri'lii;'.
in cazrrri foiirt,: rare. {.er porte {i clrirrr'de 4,: I" ttintl . irrsii. rlosul tcsiitrrrii atc
lln asliplecfitgn'crjei*g.ularJt. csttr inrlir'atri ltrgatula trnei !tl:itlrtli setrritJrrlrlt' dc lriitirtrrlrr
ifi,,a,,i,lsr1:1',,,r,lnsa*"u.r,il,gnt("''pfetrttlsrili1,,irencrrra..lg.,L-irri'r.zolr,ai1rri..,i,at,e6,a.fri'1uinili;i3taalole.nigilc1,ilrri3ul.,iiicriirl,iruri,cer3i:.ilaii(ii'ttu,c]la"l,llvr.eiecr;r*pl(r-i.iriatsgl-tnnierlr1dtiisen;tiiirbagtl[ieur,tsi,{irruauiprIfra,it.ldtrt.rri1o,rga,::*atrrl'ilultplcrt"]ale6iuta.pilrp"srigtnir'rr:'ci)ia:.rirrB1{rrr.nr]c'rpi)a,iii)SoILirlrcr{r1i,.ita:tlirr..ceriooii,rttlirn,lllsitiart,ersaitat-tf.ilrlredrourlttprLrc'rliaenllrilrniighu;lcsosnacI,ua.u".u:trari,iii{tptnjbl'ilrriifbiiulraiui.tgrnuIt.ir.eeiunae:.givlgrlri.a'igorrraa,l,ii-rl,iivori_:jllaoiliuilaaJirirrn)grilrrprlrtor'ittil.rirritrilpcar:ititr,srill'rrptie)lgtrs(lrii(a'rrraepiito'-lotlrirralsrrturl(eiaaiaplirt'rltirlr'e.Ttrltciillrei'oxIurc;:lrtitsirrft1'llt'r.rtritcoirttlli(a''tI'l'rrriiltrt"rriac'tlrg:i''ltial,errlleiIrrrsr'r/i,itLrt'rlrtln.rt,lltisl'tt'irirppetliIiptlsl'rrPa'itliirr:r,il'itsr'i'clslIJot.ttii'crti'r.olti'izrcrttio)tffalclrtra)ertiiri'l|tet:iir{t.tttrill.a:'il'r.icti.rj{rl.'r'ipir'aaisIiz\1,tlni},'gstta-.a,Jrr'tiar':i.r'i.'lilcilitrtt(lI-lfrlr,rtrtlix'l't'rL'';i,L.tgLsini1lrr;ttrrtr.iililti'1ri'rii'rr(rlttrtlii'oit'r'rr'.';lrllrt!trt.clr"attrlI-rrs1irr.ciilrttatiirl''tt..lrttttr

Ilip 4c-selrrl lt:g:rtrrrii rezrrl tii cil biitritura infclioll'ii c ltitgii rl,'asttirt'r.
dr*lasat spre,lreapia r-u rIonii fire de rrrzcalii. fa!ir rle lttrnt'ttk'rlr, Itgalt'al"
.i11r"riuur" (fig. :-tli3. tr ;i d). Astfel. eit va aptirea ttutttai []c ]'e\I'fsLll
1,,-r:t,:trrrii iai Litatura sulrclr:rorrii. nuniai pe fa{ir. aFa cum
se coustatii si tlirt
lpsirtlrii.
sccliu1ea Lrtrnsversali.f'. unrlc liiitiitura sttpcrioaril {rst(' indicatil cl I lirr:t'
groasfl, iar cea inferioara" cu linie suhfire.

248

iif ii

tl:l !.Bnrlrl.slo.rrlioo.il)ttQ,ilItDttadzrnE.toil1!I:$lil'l :Ir'1!i!:tfEi q ,i l 'l 'ldtlult Jllttitrtr
'rj-rptl ai;tltrtE J{l uSotltri.)s JoA ;i}s i.iJB,}
r.rr,)li no

r.irilr.ts;}j ll,rJtrrld ;)Jr:\r.flo{T i)1Jero+ lu!5

!1rtlr: JliJillriF"T '{ : 1 ,r1r .rrj.rorl0Jt[ 1]il
'c-.g inlrodBr n.r'se1lu r.rnlFicl iirls
r! 1.:, n l1r.rrrlr3Sal 'g€€ 3r1 u1
'lrFIsJPrp .rrl rlzul;o11

(arljqns urur[) r].IBor.,Ie]rlr trrn]E](r(,[
.lllr 'tt.rtlr:surrlt at{ gzeelnll (trsuo.rF

i:ii{tl) i:"ili(}:.i.,rr{il" }:.irlll?lr:il'.}ltllltltl
llq'ra/ uJJillrlr..lltllariIlrtitq.r'np.lFu{r)\t,JtJs.l
li L. '.xr!u i

-.r,r- ll tl t l:.r',

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rl.rnilrlr.rfl 'f : e ill) urj.rodo"rrl n;) r-r.rulril
-lrtl'rl),rl(illlrlturs l.tlllllsJi t.)till l:'lll!
-qF.r1 qltnzardeJ a.itsJ '7gg u.nrErl u1
ll-lir.r)lutlll)rl1r lil'lg-qrn3l7lr8'sJaii)PtttIaoJtlrs.tEr:JUFallltr'!tJuroelrEntrsrsraSoB?otla'lJBptltlIlPl
B.rnlqlF{l Jl) i)\Illl,lJ,c'itoJ J"IIJ

ol, : ') ).IPttltll.f.l ll.\ Jq ?lcsu,)
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.rplurnir.,r.in,rrrroslro.rl..l):1.l1lorsnillrr..)'r:rn-.rl,lr.,l.u)r,.rnr.^r'l,il)ru..r)).r]t.i!)llorrhtrrrlszlJ,.rrl1J',rIrrr:rr{tl)1lIl1rlzr3jrJJsJ[trt,:i?;!rOr.'1r[ls):treliurtru-rJ!rJir,r9)lo.t1tttl7|ao.)9.l;rlld;llt)rt1t.,,rr)r:.ro)rritdt?tEt'.cltt.rlJItolirnlL}lrir]trr.l:tr't1otrttrirlt'r8l6.irlt.N:€l6!:)'Et.lrll;jrr
lril; lr.nrlgii.rl inurltlr) 1r-s'1,)Jjc\r'flu;rro{lur{);) rJiririi.)i ,).ii:.),)!.i urir li-llrlrll}iq eit
.r,l itr i)txr ,\irrrr.rotirr J{-rl,rrrrreza.rrfar "r-r."tr1rt[ ,;!,:,llf,],t,,1:']_",i1;ti',,i;i.l],,1i;.;::::l

!-r ilri r.rno'(l)6n: lJ, r:r).rotlo.icl) E1r:cz.rn o rs lrnl Lf.{ il'l {rri-)l) .{{)1.'.) Ltu y rSici [)r{r '\\/
'.).rPorJJIilr u.illlritrt(l cll?
!-.ilrlqsJi o n.rlUld !.In1p3a1

t-r'l 7ar.*".\y',,ra,. " € altr?:fl J.il.riJI i)P i)[.t1.]irnrl g1ilz
Z
-.rirltr"r r7'lt{: .8ll rirl, .)1?J.rpnr

.r1,rl.rrtnt[ '.]tlnrull rS :) i).luouJTUI

rr,lnltll{f u,rr11 r;5.r1 ?}nJJ.\J i)s
"illpJ.r*m .rllrrnd ols.)Ju prilr\r-

.d., rrIurz.1lr clr lrur] alsatl 9f uo1
lntl_r"nl{rr.rJ !.lil lri}Fq tlritrJrI g.l
1:'-ruru,)slrr Snol ll ululuozr-lo ld

.i1t lrrl.tnnrl 'rtlthucxu a(I 'r.rnlril
-U{l '}.11tt11) JluluozLro ed ;rllurrd
rur-lti ln.r.rurtt uB-s iuuor.toJtrr llJnl

"tiltr{ rlu alusgl a{Pfial op alal
.,rttittl .rpttit '1j 'f;{j{l n.nrBtl urlr
iit).tt,t; t tt!) u.tttlt-1iia1 1l! t^rllt.)l)r,1

-a ;rls.) ar'fu.rado f lstsaJv 'JJuorJ
-atlrs rr.rnlr^:1rq clu a1en1 ureEel
oir.rlatrrrnri lp liieJ lusuldap olBuasrp luls oJRorJoJut rrJnlplgq alu olesFI
c,ru.8al irP ulcllrrnd ']oclap lsccu ulrao B irJlued '.8 p1us.re.tsuu.rl eaunrfcas urp
Bllilza.r rurrc 'rrlulrrsOj 1n-sre,r.c.r ed tg.ruorradns- ?i) .rer 'gf P1 ;rd lound {rn-Jlul
*a"rqdu B,r ri.reorraJrn r.rnlglBq'(J pltaz.rn ap ltul} nir gFual I allJtllElliq epull)
r'llflf; '5r1 u1 ?J r1r1p,17.1p ap .rr1 rieleeP il,} eEJI.r* trnlflllr{l linoP olal {)lr([

<lil Proporfia egala (I :L; 2: 2) este utilizatd cind ceie doua bdteturi sint
acelaqi material avind, deci, pe amhele
9i o..'u.".uEi grosime, tes[tura

1r{r}i, acelapi aspect. lesituri ca, de exemplu, lesdturile pentru palto-ane,

Sint, ins6, unele
pardesiuri etc., Ia care {a{a este necesar sd fie rnai aspectuoasi 9i mai-fina.
in fala utiliza o bdtiture de calitate bun[,
cazul acesta, pentru lesifurii se ria deci rnai find 9i mai sub1.ire,

iar pentru reversul ei, o beti-
tura ief tinI, d'e calitate infe-
rioara, deci mai groasa. care,

de obicei, se scimoEeaza. Bnta-
tura in-fierioari fiind, ins6, mai
groasa qi de calitate inferioari,

trebuie acoperitir, ca si nu a-
pare pe fala !esAturji. Firele
bititurii snperioare fiind sub'
se utilizeazl proporlia de
12i:r1i, (la rlzboiul
sau tle 4: 2
cu schitnbare unilaterali a su-
veicii) sau, chiar- de 3 :1 (fig.

336). Deoarece aceste lesatud
1. au o singurd urzealir, niivddirea
gi tragerea in spatA se efectu-
l:'ig 3116. Lesgiilourulrzpecanlttrru(porolepsoarttuiard-3c:1u )d.ouf birtiiuli p-"eonmtruoe{elosltitdurdilien
eaz6 ca sim-

ple, aga fig.

334"..336,
Legilturli.c duble de bltattll[ sint utilizate pentru, lesdlurile de lini qi de
ifalalnriete. tccl.inPceanrterusaesctofenlfedcefiofenesaitzul rip,ijsaemuatlieliz, ecaipzitru,qiterliurgzreoaa-lsde,
irumbac., nurnite
pentru iraine de
?tuirreii-)",uibatririiusimbpalteirtsuarui.rdfisreucigter'o(acases;ii llu apara pe fala qi pe reversul 1esf,-
deoaretre rcectc lcqiltut'i se
tlezlinatc,

scrimo;eazl, de obicei. bilateral.

2,it. tcsituri cu trei bitdturi si o urzeali (triple rle bltituri)

I)acii, pril utilizarea bntiturii inferioarc, nu s-a obfinr-rt grosimea nece-cari
sistem de bdtAtura, care
tesaturii. sir adaugd un al treilea va {i situatir intre

i,At,it,,.o' superioai'i gi cea inferioara. Aceastf, bAtdtlrrd se numeSte bd'tdtard
rle ttntp]tttttii, deou.",," ea arc r:olul Je a imbunirtafi proprietirlile lerlnriizolante

alc lesliturii. cil $i rir'zeala tlc umpluturir, poate fi tlinti-uD

Riitiitlra de urnplrr[uri,
r'-rrcaraeetrlcerlooer1irnbai1stuletisaeiclctaiforstrpiininsuf.ulipesdrreeaeccaf ulcilauipaz1nriaiaictlrasaifitieertursiainnn[nttefurseeivrrseiibiotr,rtsaiuatsdrcleift.,tuuuPrdlatieiilninrzianterflfauiieogzrnai.Ao3anal3euroiir,a-ssIgpei,aigtprc'deee.rtaltiatlrrsdusuupaepevurriaixtoafiaalrierulaiiar. tficeitf(slefiirtiirtgtn,euurlorilialr,!
.'!r31 tL.. . e), cu un rirport ayiurl a-t:trlca5i rlirucrrsirttti t'tt rtPorltrl legiiturilor
t0 :
sr,qiclioat'e (fig. 33?) si inferioarri ({ig. 337, j). adicir Jj:

- 111 acest raport, pe orizontalele dintre piitlirlele, se reprczintir. prirr
prrnctele de legare luate alc legiturii sullerioiue :
1;uncte.

!irf)

t:o

'nJ5ou prrol un od aqlu IJnFTJ +u[ilro] r]11-s 'rciJJ
'[ens.r-ln]BpFualuttl.riro]sJooop..rrFllce'erru-rnBt.rrpnsl?e}iPlqns'Jue.rlad"nrseedap'qalurI un ocl i]r8ru r.niFrl oley]su
ptto] Eztrlol{ ; tr'lnFII Euoz u!
'3rrn1
.rur 'prto; op crloz u1 'u.rtfnseop cd Suni qztse1oIJ rqlll uJnlr^1llr1 'o'35;g 'Ft; tttr

lnsop-g'eieJ-u o r- r.rnt!itq([ r.)'.(ltI,nrt,E.Irnlu!s3ci.:]Ioodon.r.dr)iupaldeouzrrnn1p.iia.1 ltll ""1:I
: un8r;

npcrnpr.rrnsleEillq'Beptt ElqnP
'81.{

'gqIB BIIB rS g.r8uau.alse Bun aJEO oJlurp'gsnpa,r alulrlcedruol nc rS esuo.r8 reuu

Irnrglgq gnop rS a.rriqns EIBazrn o pulz{I}n Vzeoztleer es g.rnitisei E}suacy

'nr8eu puoy ed

ocllr? ESuI 'r.rn8r1 r3ualacu lururo; ne-s 'g'B€f; 'fil; u1 .rer 'e11u prroJ un ad ar8an
r.rnFr; luur.roI ne-s o'op'BelEqntp'EruIrIasurI.r'nr.lgrnsle?israel urnSeerieelaJcguluIrnzas.rrdoc^.re,?r''qBt'BC tt'3'3ldr;
'r.rn8r; nc ?mlplgq .rer

rrntry nc Ernlglpq op elqnp:uras rrnlqsal, g'3

.r''r0r(on"ptu/).rr0no1'Icj-9,u3neaolpd1r-rr.ierllpoodluendlsr.urur?cor.duurunrn"lrr*elBI*rBuqzuuronanlrrapueaourlccc1{nnt'11poddr"sr.t1rl"1o-n'duqocc"?'sr(;Jt{;rn}l):slq;raB:lpcFtIueqirle:IuqoofIrar;elpni';,(uulrr?rlolliJ)td?suggp(lretn:.e.rir)zHe.,rrg-t'ne'";arq,nulux11aneTpu1po"dpu;doairu1*dntduoer,4c.p"r
rrmlp8al 'tBBesJEeIuegse'1pun€1IIWpEEz'€8Seegpeol1cE4o..rrrndSlnealdspua'ra(nnaesJp){BuFn.IncrulE'r0plPIxg:nUe'rr.ere.nr}nlsg1as9eEtriern1In}BpsrFuaela^1oerp-pedodrcen.rr

e?arroep
'eie; ed rcru ee.rgde u,r nu ea 'gfurcasuoc u1 'r$ girlnrcrurc o I$ lcund un a4u-{
gnsrluura.rddnuc.m"1rI98Ea1s €o Bc le;lse '(aleluozuo rrurl gnop) grnlnldum ep BrntrElEq

Blnc?xe es 'aleluozlro Enop olec artrulP e1e1ei9.r1gd ug -

sre8el ep alalcrmtr ,efqnrcruo uud ,p1r'zarde.r as Ti"Tffit'# i#i33Jt#"jt"'-'

{i

\;:rrlnr. cele rlorr:i bril*trrri Ittgii irr opozitrie: acolo.ullclc biit:ltrrra illhir
llrrtraz;r pe rlc'as1pr:il. ("(,'it tlcilgrir {loteazii pe dedesght 5i inr'"ers'
ln fig.:iii9 s-au {orgrat i'igurii,r (carurri ueegale al[rr'- pi negrc]" indir:ale
tlt-. rlotirrii Jl. l',.nrr,, ,,'r,',,,rt,,r,i,r acc-ri,'i lt'giitrrri. -r-a tlosettal
inlii rnolivul M-

r.arc plc2inlri Iala Icsir{rrrii. t.u ra;roltrrl tic 24l.12: :rpoi s-atr tlest]ttlll douii
rlc Itsiittrrir
It:giitLrri t,urcspnnrirtoarrr tiprrlrri rlat 1i attttttrt: : o lt'gilturii t'tt

,,

pe fatJ

t/
pc Jn

lr ir

cfer,t rlt'birtiitirll (a) ,.i o lt'girturir t:u clcct dc rrrzeaiir (6). ale ritfti Prructrr
<lc lt'galr.: sinl deplasatc spre clrcapta, fafir cle ptrnt:tel{' dc Legare a}e
lcgiiturii rt. r'rr clr-'t't rlt' lril{:it.rrrti.
Rapoltul legritriri i s-t stirbilit iiuirirI seatnii dL' raportrri tito{ir rrlrri. ['en-
Il'Lr cri ti'silturii rr]'{'o lrrz{'illri;i doua batiituli, r'aporl-ul de rrrzealir r:oint'ide
r'rr i'aportul molivului, irrr lirporlr-il c[c biiliiturir estc thfrlul rapoltulrri rnoti-
r ulni. (lontur'uril,' ligrrr'ii. r'tsltrrttir ul,r ctlor' llatnr c'arorui" s-eu de-.enat. r'u
linii rirai gloasc.
l'resrrpunirrrl rrir birtirtura lcgir{rrli i rr estc albA, iar a ltgatrrrii /,,. nt'agrri,
ligrrlile s-arr lornral astfcl : pe porliun{'ir rIin1r'e Iirele de irrzetrlii I-16,.firekr
rlc Iiirtirttrti alh('(paitrirl.elc plinc) flottazir pe tleirsupra. iiir firekl lcgrc (clu.
eirrlile) pe rlrilesrrlii : tleci. in por!irrnea ac€asta. f a{a !esirtrilii r ir f i alh;r.
iar levcrsirl nogrrr. ln pol!iLrrreit tultrinsir irrtrt fil"elt rit Lrlzi'alir il-24, bnri-
lr.rLir rrcagr:'r (t'r'rrrrirrlite) floteaza, insi, pe deasupra. iar'heliitrira albir" pl
ilcrle:trltt : tlttli" in ai:castir pol[iurtc. f irf a lcsliturii \ it I'i rrt'aslii. ial rr'-

r.t'r'srrl alb.

Astfcl -q-it folruat. pr'1'a{a 1r'siil"rrrii. r'eur{otur n}otivuiui JI. la -.tinga, un
carorr alb, jos" la ilreapta" negru, din citc opt fire tlc birtiturii
iar un carou
albe (pritrrifele plinc) qi 3 {ilr, dc biitittuli negrc (crrrciu}i1e). avind l]ropor-
tia de l:1.
lllot aici sint reprezurhrl.c^ in sg.c|iunc" Jirelc d,: bltiturir I (alb), rr:lrrr:.
uentat pl'intr-o linie groasii,;i 2 (negrn), reprezentat printr-o linin srrlrlire.

Dr-9

(,(l:

UI .f : I JIr t0] "rJn]u.r]s ]ilrop .IOPJ Jlrl I"rlrll]ri(t JP .]iJ.rrJ J.Utlrl) lrii.r,ltlo.rtl_.rur
'f :I rp ol-qa.rorJolt1r ts,ror.radns rolr.InluJ]s alu lll1cz.Ill Jp olcJt] a.purp trj.rodo'rd
o.u?.) lri .Flqrrr !.rnl(;-ai o nJlrrrd .rurruurl+rd lnuasrP 'l'I?t '5r1 .rnr 'Jlchllnul
rs'.i1t1rlI ljnt1|sai rt.llrtld r^r1trrz.r.ri[ ttt it,'l
il'lui)+rp .rPrrrnILlJ'Id InuasirP
',)luoilrJ[i Jls;].)ll,]Ilrt{l}

rrrirrrrlo.rrl r:' ![rIr11rurr np-c l-rl([nl) tJllll-rs,)i,rrrrrdttto.; J> JJ it.)ttl.)l.t Jl!.) Iltl) llalseotlll..]
;ls r_fs JlllL{i}.I}'tllF-l?;},)ll ll.llO.)d '.1nruntn1.r"I{[ Irtttasi]P i).lll,li]\i) .is Bs .lPSe;]atr Jli^i)
'g1qnp f.rulLl-{,.,}i (} 1ll1I,rz,r.l([.).t l] ol) ')lltltltll ,t-rlttl
irloi i?.Il p(l c p clr"rllPtt!.I .td ".ror.r.r3 trr r ltl ll J t.:.Il :- FJtll.
'!".rNItl(tni R.rlilpsi:il OI'f ''JLt -rlltiil Ig rrlrtcil.ru.tttrrl.retlttrt 'tiafgrl!'r[ ')P i)lt.ltlpIIu
qlus.r,l.\s{le.Il Junrlcas

ed cuc-.,rp .to,\ rs .tot.tctltts rnluluJls l?.rluIlf([ Ig
n[u.]z.rn'ulsJp tt!'cJt] ap rr.lrio.ttl J[,]urJ]sls .)Ja

:* r.irul?.us lino[r J[aJ sJltlIP i].lllDJti i];)JJi?(j.1(l

'Rrulnqnl F.rnltisej 0 'IaIlstr ils-nPulitl'loI 'alBJ
-ueL)s lj:f InzJ.I clr.lnlu.lls '.rlc .l'l llll ' .lrll.l.rJ rl r [Jc r5
..-:r,9.rJ1,.or.ii..rurrl.iJ.,r.Jitrplrnr.'1srcrqItllrilt-urtllUllmlcr..l.c.l']l\lsso,'n{..rrItO[Ilt]rr..JarroJrCtsohlt'.s,luUl nI'lrcBlll]tU€BlgJJualSsr.Jr]lPtoRIIt'IlulIn.IloPniIr:I:]rrFr}olillclpui(ItlnSJ,P.,t))BJ1'l.t.r!l,'Jtl.]U'Blr.Er!lln'lll"e.1r]ol1Jttls.l.ts]Jitl.(tr][tr"plisq-_:Fe.rlel;1.lrritl1tl1tts6l,:l...rrrt1.eil:lt^luIlilltUlt'!.l3r!J{r![no'lcr[r.^4l?ts')
.r.,fjrilr.iil1isr1uu'o,r,prorl1r{,rllql-1-nr...zr.1rr,i1^urr-{;ns1ra{nnjcll^.J?g.1.rrnonpr1rg:sc1osgi-r1nlepoulrpn!tlJulPIaroJiT[.urJt-sl .utliorz.\rlFlt.llI'llIlulI..lttl!oit.llt.ttrJutitt-lltii.llrfJallstolt[tl]t(lltrlt[lt0lz,r.r).rtllrl.Illoll..lrtfr.i,]ax.l!)lLlP;].'r0l]Itrl(r't

Inqnl unl*sei 'l'€

.plJutl>!p B.iltlBsCi u JiltlrlsUtr.) il: ,rlur)rl ..r[J ,r.lltlllr .]Jl:,")lJ llll: ll,lllll:st i
qJrliuls-o q.,r-t'"'Jdut! ulu.rol lod'c1qnp.lolr.rnl1:Sdi clr.IituE"llq .).loPar\ op olcund
.)lSOiln tup r.IaJIP 1Od nBS erFOlOrrqal IS JJt?uOrSJol Jp:^llcr-'a.reo1nc'outrs
-o.ri r*rljle uirn lod o.ruor.ladns cpr rS e.tuor.reJrrI rrle.rtl'tr+ttl-rtlll)s^E efl
.-..,,lr,.l.)o?*tljtl,r)ir,iurr,,1.,lfr,,ig1u:,lrre,fepi,ni.rt1tl.o.r[trekiaL:.s,,l;r1lIiirnEttr:strJ'cnasayllle!orhlt.urr1rcrar..lrrlirrri,op$rqlezrr1i1lrr')a..nprll1lun"al9rlt:lFEIlIAuIseL5o1or].lirpInooJr:e1'lsf[lsln:ltrltdllrrlu;ltlt.sturolttrclrl1'ol[l9+t:cBolner.rIlArlI]i]rr(l):r1xrti:0n.rlntto(lJ1odIllI9tllt.tertlSrllpl;,l1ret.1rl?i.npor.a:1uIr]ols.lrrct,l-till]r^io)ri'pJlt)ior].tl(.l)c.r?r[)ao]oli)]r1i'IJ,)lp).auIlIld'.r)?IfLrn''ftotJlo-:>lle1-)'0Il(o'la'[).Jrtr]llrurJl1ll.ot,.IalIl.rt1l\1liI'

-gs;j. uo.resrul1 la,r3urnrl6pOFelofrri*rtl-a,ll,'.;lr.r.rr,er o-:poop'.tropt.lrrrcd1;tltrt Ii.lOuadrls.rolr.IlilttJ]-s- oli,r,ltJ
,,r,lrril, rrti"t,.rtloiA
r.rtr1 gsai .tols.)on ptlilc(Is\i
'IuJls:

;].6t.lilrI rr.rluod EIntflEq IF'tilgOz.Ill op rttolsrr rnl ?:l!c'AluAttodttro:) l'tttlulIulIU
pele.ro-t i)l(tnP JIr.tnlBsai'rrlitl'IJoslloJ ttJ 'llJnlqlqq IS ilrrozJn ap lr.xlo'r<I el?ttt'rlr-l{
ill| pulun{Isri, i,t.tii arPcaII't.tnlells linop rIIp oleiuJoJ llqs olqilP allrxl?sOJ

alqnp allrnrxsai 'g

'),IJIIJIqls" al l{Illltri|lt
'i)lo cstlo'r"t
a,1l.'ranelgnslcalfqaJr,l+lllrnlslrerqo:,ralorruaclJiro(fIi'ar:l?n?1nrrlsI suorltutl+ldrlU+lBtluzBIItulnot{ltrurlrsgl.dtnnl'rtF8,e0l
rls-;ri)V

tr;srulliete;rr;smadte.tanuaruclluelabitpsi;rdtn;eri;afnlriemtt"urrpeilinuofavri*,ersiroudtipticn-*ea-irlru{ei"oilgriei...g"n5i3uei4"qs1ici,n.6uart,r,c*imsamuuarlscdr?fciiuarsslutcieltei,,cf,3o'i'ainbodrseeatfatiarrutltetrruzleece'saaatdglfef:,iir.ir".niee{nrdPlyfe"eorirenldi.,ondelea.incurtqadrazit,tdebppaairrlntieinnatEilussrierppbaaaaipfltaiiautulaell-

marcat (cnrciulitti) dintre verticalcle 6 7i 7'

7:l

// a I u /./ i"j .?: I

821 D C.'

I

Fig. 341. Dcst'nc preiiminarc pentlu di{critc les:1ttu'i duble ;i rntrltililc

'fesiitura poatc fi forrnata utilizind nr,ai rnult decit dou[ sisteme de fire
tle urLeaIA sau-batdturi in proporlii diferite t 2:L:2 (trei sisterne), 3:l:2:1.'sau'
fi
iliZ,f (patru sisterne). Toate acest€a pot reprnezentate in desenul prelimi-
itesenul prelirninar al unei le's[turi
ou"; .1. E*.*plr, figura i]41 ir, reprezinti Ei betdturA. Urzeala qi b[t6tura su-
triple, deci cri ciie tiei sisteme de'urzeal6
OIoi.tulirroio(Firi",trign* l.i(.,.I3,PB44i1,,o'77,p-,7co'cr-rl1t.ice0a).p,)'nra,ertrziiatislrtiidnnctedutlrneezaseire'a.fcleluearl,tieopc;a,isrtreiesglti.eim(mi3nin,ealb6era,mat96l,etudu1rinei2,es\iiensfstietnemst dlamterucaralr:itc1efa:o1tcer'urnccaurtuclcinicuiui-'
9i patro sisteme de betaturd, in proporfie de I:l:1:1,
laiatittrupespitsrtrermuerzed,ealud,rzeeiat;lii pentrn birtiitrrlri. Sistemele stt':rttrlui 4 (infcrior) sint

rnarcate cu pdtrdlele rnai mici.
Ilig. 341, d repr.ezintE desenul prelirniuar al unei fesirturi constituite dirr
doue urzeli 5i douir betituri (ilubli). Aici, insd, proporlia este de 2:1, atit
in 1rze1lii. cit ;i in bdtitur:i, fiindcir tirele stratului superior sint mai sub-
deci rnai fine. Ordinea, atit il urzeali, cit qi in b[t[ture, este urlil{toa-
1iri" ult fir superior' un fir in'ferio'r, ttlourr fire srrperioare' un fit' itlferior" tloua
rea :

254

996

: (urVnrlldnu'Z1rVre.tir9,d.-4'ufgre1d.yr)eln$r.rrrucurrourrdc.ru'+.rrt{eenp1s'eB'"sr.neyiurF'r.ur}oFrrrql.araroddpnlsrnlur}nepspferetup.rr.rltsrt{[

no p,ruor"rodils FItsazJn ap J]J

rltrrza.rdal es n'6vg'3lI ulp
-a-:rnIuc€uut'e-nqrJrrr.fnimclpo'l;1gsruqsquuariluoruopleI.oagrlldJeaIscIp"rnuPaca,alsscBuaoIupBn.r?slrzqJeBns.arouauunplelniacdceInassJarudrIn!ng,lepnzullnulaedcSnalrstcxcnaeu.r.lcranra41sgae8rpes}s1ogBopsprurrrnnreud,uosururloouuccr.arlea;.rJeredesuslr,-nJnuuueus,raJuup!r
-r1ard Fuesap enlceJa 8 op elureu! ',gJnlElgq r3 pleaz.rt cp ;ro1a,rr1 rrunrsoccfns
IIJIIIqEII lndocs u1 'efqnrcruc leuesap nu-s creorJa1ur oloc urrued ler' ,e1eoE
alafp.rlpd lesgl np-s uerorJodns qrnlngq ap r$ qluaz-rn ep ale.lrJ nrluerl ,1,?ep,Vpt,zferlc1

uI 'BJnlL2tE(1 n.rluorl'elclea.rp rr1 .rer'gluozrn rurlturrl slrs'Jurnue \s f

u1 Bc '.rettuurla-rd lnuasap glurzerder as '1:1 ap elso 'onrolsrs olequru nr:1uad
',ro1r.rn1e.4s .roI?JrI eri.rodo.rd acoJEos6 'JerrrurrlaJ: dAJInBuOaIns,e?p}IpulnIoIcaxllot5e- sut-tlas llE
i ;i#:l t;l;:ii"",.- *fit;itrrt .r.n?corJ 'q'Zbt'F11rq
: E 'ZVra, '5r;
-. 1 u..r 1 p s c nrlrre d u1
u';_r'.r<trla;ur rnlnleJ S u.rn1pFa1 gzeJrr?sap Js -
ua 'ror.rodns rnlnl€Jls u"rnlg8c1 rlzu,ruesep as -

-ffix"".TtJ: *u

'I:I ap clsa rurolsrs eloqutu nr"luad 'eri.ro.dxot,,r"d5'"gc ri
Bg1z€ullscul ogc.rra1Sp8'eg1ttels'8clJJorrlJagllrerrlurenzlearcdas.r re$ls1e1aau'lonrri:ceadsnsrarmgo1uu1uo1gs.reul.nrnq1ngl8ge.1rnlllplBsei?Do
slncax? es ps a1$argtuJn as 'nldurexa oO 'JolrJnlerls alu E.rn1?lqq ap elarr1 arlul

,rrllaclsa.r 'g.ruo1.rapr ri g.reorredns ?IBazJn sp eloJrl oJlu! tlsrxe er arirodo.rd
ac r* .ror.ra;ur Iec rode 'roFradns InlBJls uaau B;\ gn1g3o1 al 'pu1.r prrur:d u1
"gcsuorrnc as Es emqo4 'e.ru1nqn1 r.rnlpsei raun u.rnlg8el ?zuauos"p os ?cug
'rrnlqsai olsece n.rlued .ro1r.rnlgFc1 earuuesep
eaJeolnr nc 6e' JluuluJls urp alrJnlflqq e1 Rluiurnqa.4ug
aaJuru JoA as 'na t eplezJn 'a}u.r
r$

-oIoJ auuoralc nc nus aIeJBncB nc EzEerrJS?p as puIS'c1a a1dnra"r1u1 'aleppuo
rrurl nss r.rnlgs,af pulzllrln
aleod es a1dr11nur Jols-eoa Inuosap lEzrI?,JJ n-s oJB) n;) ?leuttres ace,
r.mlgsai urlued pJnl?tgq uerecJetr{{
rS qleaz-m op rolcrrl
'I:e ep alsa eri.rodo.rd 'p.rn1p1pq ug
.rer '1:1:1 aP olsa eli.rodo.rd 'r1eaz.rn u! : untngq EuoP Is IIozJn IeJl ulp allnl
-rlsrroc r.rnl(sai raun IB .ruuuurla.rd Inuesap 1e1uaza.rde.r olsa /i'Itg 'EIJ ul

!l.rulllqnl p.rnlgsaf o n.rluad JnlnlrasJp DJrclrrJrx..t aLf :llrl

ffi ffi ffiffi ffiffisH0ffi J s Yq

ffi

P

ffi

'{:6 cP 6?.m}!?}^eq cp t"trou.rrrpJ
r.rlrrlp ,rur '1:1 ap olsa EIBozJn cp rleJrJ a.rlurp elj.rodo.rd i a,rr1
e1?ruJo1'a]r{np r.rnlqsef rerrn lp.rettrrurla-rd InuJsep r.,lrnz.r"lrl;r,r ep anralsrs

a'{tt'8ld
gluds 14 ue.ra8u.rl Elncexe es pu!.r
*a.reor.redns oJlJ ?nop gJluI Buncaplol sulrdnc trrl gs JorJalur lnJr1 sc prdocs
nc'lor.racftrs.rr1 un na lncl+cr4 alsa 1n1.rodug'.,1.r JoueJrlr JrJ IIrr'u.reorradus eJly

::rtc4o2lo,-I-pl ,nsdrre.lrttsrr{cclsii1nplicu1rnru,r)c:. iIl;cieggi.zitru:i{r'i1dr2es,let(racteruk'elrurl):irtcilnozfitelrrilriii-oqriilseitensmedneertsalelltnllruesltlitptatrrteiulli'larutrrii.rirnianfre9tr:iiaoarrettu(gt{niig'nt:.t'
inilir'l l.t: le g ii turile' antbelor s traturi.
in seiilitrn,:a tliu Iig jJ40 se cotrstalil {rii o lesilturii tul)tllarii t:oustil rlin
tloirli stratriri sr.paralc, rinitc mrrtai lir ruargini. atre'stor (loui straturi
Separarea

s-r o5[ilut prin'ahst,nta insaililrii. atlit:rl rtirrtiirli rtt'zt,ala stratului inferior nu
leagrl pgstr: lriitrit-rrla stratrrlui supt:r'ior fi rrici utzeala:ti'atului sul,erior lltr
tiittrll irr{crioarir.
lcitu' :r1npckgslrtrulir.larii rlin Iig. l\rI2. C sc vtrl,'" irrsri" cri lircle rlt' Ltt'zrlalii alc str:attrltri
,srrperior Lagir sub firele d,: biittitrrrii irtfcrioarr: (lratra[ek: goale) 5i. itr con'
secirriri. cele dolri straturi nu sinl sel,drilte, constitrrind o singurti tesiittlr:i'
Itcrrtrrr a le separt, se erccrrrtir operalia rrtrntitii uileuaj,(stiltal'ea firtllor). care
'.onstii in ridicilrea tutut'or f ir'r'loi'1ls 1117ealii ale stral-ului 'tuPerior' acolo trndc
.uclstr,rtr se ipcnrcitcazri r'u {ip.:lc tlt birtlrl"rrr'ii alt' stratttlui infcrioi:.
In fig. :i42. D. anlq'a.i ul ,s-il osc(:lttaI t'ortpletitrtltt-sc (ctr tlouti,liniult: vt:r-
tirrrle) toate pirlrriIclele untl: sc incru<:igt:azIi firclt: do utzeal{ ale stratultri
sLrlterior. r:tr fin:lc rli' birtaturii inIcrioarr'.
La toatt: ile-*enelr, (:rtt'e \-ol'urrnit. artlt^r'ajul -ce vit rel)rczetitlt itt rl(:('-
lirti nrod ;
,*e staltilc;tr taPoltLrl tt'srittrlii ttrbirlar',:. l,a [cgiitrtra rlirr {ig. .J-12, D. sr,
obset-.r,.ii t:ti rlesenul Are ult taport dt: 4i.l: .l(tcasta. tlitr r:lttza t:il s-itlt supraptl-\

tloph lr:girtrrri c,;i lr,'r, rapoi'1ul rle 2/2. iar'1rr:oporlia rlintt'r'fir:trle celor rlouii

straturi estr,. rlc l:1 .
Ilentrrr toatrr Icsirtr-u'ilc roinpusc (dublt:.1i nrultiple), t'aportttl legAturii

rlepigtlc tle: raportul legiiturilor componerrtc, adicil- i'aportul legrilurii fie'
r:irilrri strat. propor{in dintre fir:ele stratrrrilor'9i insiilare. Daci inshilart)d s'a
{iir:ut astIrrl" i,n,r:il dtlpils,e;tr' rill)ot'lrll Icgirtrrrii. s{r r a oll{inc ttrr rillxlrt

nrai trtaLe.
lrr fig. ij,L2. D. sint tlr.i rrotirtii : lr.ttr';r[cl(' ru'glr' (,it'giittLt'a slraltlliti str'
r'rut:i ulife (lcg[1ura stlatului inferior) q;i-douir linir.r9e verticule (anle-
i1-al:jru'iol)r..). Lit ltcrIorarca cartclclot" toatc se citr:''c liln'l.
I)ar,ii s-ur rrl.iliza. atit llt:ntt'u. st,i'atrrl iul)oriot'. t'it si 1tt'rrlrir t'r'l infeli<x'.
hli Iii trrri separaLLl. r'cspecti.r. pclltt'u f ier:arr, o altri suveic;i, ,*-tl olrlirrc rloui
Jcsiitrrr.i. rlespirr[i tc r:r'rrryleI trrra fl9 alla. rlirogrt'('(' rr.t r'tistir biitritllrii {'ollltlllit
rrale ,qti lc rureascii la urargini.
Fitilul dtr lxrtrr,,',. Iurilurrrrl . satrii {ir:ii crtsziLrtt'it sint ft-siil.ru'i Luhrrltr.'.
[,rrg:itttra rlili {ig' ?t'12^ l) s(' Ioiltt inlrt'lmirrla l){'l1tl'tl I'''itlizrtt'r'it ltl'ilttelor iltrttit
t iItrli ttt,'rttiottirlr rlt' tc:rtltrt'i.
lfig. illii lr:prezintii rlescnul lega{.rrlii |crrtLu uil $ac tesut pc iizlroi. Drrlrr-r

(() i-a o|1inut rut laport, in care {ier'arc operaiie a fost indicatii trtr st.'llltlelc
r61sar:ra1t: (in collul dc jos, din stirrga), s-a r'eprodus lcgiitulir ttt ittt *ittgttt'
sernn (palr;-rfele negte). llorliunca 5 reprezirttii sat:irl proltt'iu-zi. : lleutrtr {or-
nturea fnndului I's-a intleiruinfat o legirttirii pinzit. uttdl t't'le rlotrri stratiLr'i sint

runite. lnt s(ipal'ilto cir in Tlor{iunea 5.
Pt.ntru exetularea lesriturilor tubrrlalc cu legiturti 1rluzii. trutrtrirttl lirelnr

rlt' rrrztllri trebpic sir fie irnpar: rle eretnpltL, l)en[rr o !c-(iitrrl.i tubtrlal'i pt],n'
tlrr J'ilil. ru'zcala sllperioarl va avea ilO iL: fir.e. iar cea infcriorrit. 29 siltr
.il rlp iilt'. l'iri,lt'rle birliiturri lcagri 1te irltreg parcur:stll. o tlatii deastiprit. o

:rrtl

196 JOIIf,N19SE1 BJJBIJJIOId IS UJNIsNJ1S _ IT

€r r'pacoJd u.s runc usu oszusd nrr,r*r"is3lr"i.ll ;j"l;:,.'n #i"il::t JJilt'.l;i
t'EEE,q4lnI'nIol,onrVpBalnxEraaoul'ua5nescl'[rILrl-'-oeoBarpnuJfsunlrpu8Q]nE,sc.Jlre-re'?rin.qrurul.unrarorncrr'BlplupIuEslsldaIieBreelliaea8unc.rurapcrnB]uppuIru1l1iJripep.Er3cldreeeu,s'aa!pgulerurrr5purrcnr.€nrlleesnru.rrcorvn]ezleBsiJIeoopzaEI.unr^uzgl.peerraruaeuF;lnnrunuornrla1nslslB',puoerr8,rulcseluJus.troriu1lI,edttsBrneusAu;lqnpr.,]icpreJl-Jn,s1Bu.zrrc.ce,oe.rro.url1nro8u'rrut^.5rnr1rrull8asBu.'pro.rurualnetsui1r,.
-ln''asluu.rlrdrzulpra-nrnBasur_c.rarlldnu_rrooou;.IrcrEdcesEJ'utIBinS1relJcc1nI'eefnnzlrsuzou..ulsrrstldcrdsotrJueJqE1o!mnn1eBBolgFepc8e,liraorapupnlul1oBunuocSoe'can,Bdpc'Juu'enqo'ngmrl1reau'81rrnalnnlluIqnFnl1nesclr1gnBrsipoSrrut,oudt.lu.rosnrl1udup.9oruuruDsnrnalcqJrianleI.'F"rrnIrnlIzloqturr?luBioeauJdurortrsrri.rrr.orps,uqp1'resgr;au;rllrurs1u'Iaeaspr,rJogurzrlacdsorueBrct:crlqsr:rrpa.ro.icr1ouou".eqpri,,
aliaun; u1 'gleurur.ralap aurr8unl o esai es'a1e8a purrl rr.rrlpsoi r$.ioples-uadr
-1iq'l1mrfsai re$ua1uarrc8uunrSl ug! rrnollgrr8'Eueoslrear,irunces.nep?c"zerrnlp8truurgrso.,rpo.uIn,'B1pe,cou;ueBrurlIocslljpzepueolpl.rrnro,optrsztrrpaoii:usfrrn1eqrl1aJcJpluutl;i
as i lur.reluur
aceJeoep 'F1eaz.rn ep Fs .rn8urs rrn Fzuezrlrln es rlaz.rn fnop cloc r.rlrrcJ

: p'Ernrln.rEAr-rloVlr9c!Rre'ps! u-BnaJrqD-u:rrpgorJn.lg.rt^8lBugnpn.r3-.l.,-I q. , r.rn11sci '(rus ) :;rr:1nqn1 .fll: ..81,,1
Trnn
qP Inursa6l

- lPt?l

l

J

'a.rr1 Bnop serl nnflluulu-dsasfdinus'gVg5lceup.er1ueraru.rsodzouteu1urirnl!,iltrsiIuEgrEruI.Buroe.auf€zrlWrJeI5nJ.a1reape4opu,lEnf'JuIIaledcolraIuJlnezreJJJBnrxrBrIIa1regronrpz'oaOueda.arrs.leparIaerIrrpocrnnJroal.u.grrr'lldsruelaoacue.irrlsnair1laeoSnual1palgdus;raceouc.ocr1;uaruuoppr11tr.

11.rep 'e.rulr.lrelueur

lsecu
uimpuel pulurr.rdurr 'rr.rnlgseii e aur8.reur ep euoz u1 'rr1az"rn u.rdnse cr$.retra ruur
gzeauorice prntql?q 19 lptll.'cr8o1ouq^a1 rnlnseco.rd rnlncrlrce.Js ElrJol€O

e.r a' r F.tu ut e 1,.re c{, J'fJ" J'},lJ, Jl ::,?",T i.i::- : r T"! 3f .,*iiq:::x, ;'T.,"""i

itlt.i"r,raotruF".prligruis."urue3pia4e"l5rizc.ieoercarle,p),rtidtreoozucuinnedtdcisnitrorcasustturietarcirc,luioulsmneienp_ifnleientotr,iaolacrrloaim;eienaialpi-ftotilgie,n'sloaa3ot4,mu0lrea,iigr;cg.inii,nsdeed.apucporgainnlsdcateaecteatarlaeclgebfi,ugsbiaetartatsiatn,i'
din nreopureinzinsttfr,alteugl astuupraersiopre.c-i^f.ica
a-poi trece 346 acestui tip de produse.

l"ig.
ln sectriunea unui astfel de sao' reprezen-
tata in fig. 345, este indicat[ orilinea succesiu-
nii fireloi de urzeale si tle batirtura. AEailar,
desenul preliminar va aYea' in urzealft, urr fir
superior nemarcat, unul inferior Inarcat ctt trru'
ciulile, iar in biteturf, doui fire superio'arc si
iloun inferioare marcate (cruciulite). $i pentrtt
acest desen s-au executat operaliile indicatc la
F

ffi

b

Fig. 315. Secfiune transversalir intr-o trig. li16 Lcgituri Pentru o tesi-
tessAintutrauntuitebunlaumri,alialacaoremtarergsiinitcu.rile rurh tubularf,, la can:e cele doui
tcsAturi sint unitc numai la o

malginc (sac fnrl tiviturir).

forrnarea legeturii tlin fig. :t42, D. Po4iunea S reprezintri sacul propriu-zis. iar
t{unga sacului D s-a format intrebuin}ind o legeturi pinze'

Legdturilc tubulare sint frecvent utilizate in cazul [esiturilor necesare

pentru imbrecarea rallurilor de la di{erite prese cilind-rice. Aceste lesf,turi sint

iabricate din lini. iar apoi sint piuate. feslturile tubulare p€ntru pr€se sint
formate, de obicei, cu leglturi diagonale, cu fele identice, cleoarece acestea
{aciliteazi operatia de piuare. Se va urmiri ca tliagonalul sir-5i pistreze sen'
s1l, pe fala ambelor strat'ri, iar dlngile si prezinte continuitate.
Cind se executi legatura pentru o astfel de lesitur6, se adopti, pentru
stratul superior, de exemplu, un diagonal inclinat spre dreapta, iar pentru cel'
inferior, un diagonal in;linat spre stinga. lntorcind -t€'sftura astfel. incit
fala inferioarl se fie deasupra. dungile vor prezenta continuitate (|ig.347,a)-

Daca cele dou6 straturi au o legdtur6 diagonal cu aceeaEi direclie', se ob-
(tig. 347,b), in care diagonalele nu au continuitate. ci
lsineeimobleinsl5tsuirrndegtrriecg, ilta6 rnarginea lesdturii. Fig. 348 reprezintiL legitura rrnei
tesituri tubulare pentru valluri, realizatii cu legitura diago-nal 2/2 inclinat
spre dreapta, pentiu stratul superior gi spre stinga, pentru cel inferior.

Raportul este de ,R : B/8, deoarece legdtura este, formati din dou:i com-
ponente cu raportdl de 414 9i proporlia de l:I. Nevadirea se executl in doui
.o.p.rri ile i1e, {iecare corp avind patru i1e. Cunoscind teorid leshturilor tubu-

lare, se pot fabrica nenumdrate lesdturi tehnice-

De exemplu, pentnr realizarea unei saltele farf cuslturi, se formeazi fun-
clul sacului, prin unirea celor iloui straturi, utilizindu-se o legdturi pinz{'

258

696

FrrrlElFq oP JolorrJ .lrnocrlErJInc] -csrdanrseBarpgdInIIp'-gzu11.dmlri{.t)r}lp.Illlle}l fluJzJrI aP cTaJrI aleol
pulolplJ'1nfe,re1ue n.rlecI o1a.r'gcrlerunu

eurpro u1 '.ruururrla.rd lnuasap u1 'sndsrre.rl ne-s 'rrrnltSoT POJtlnJaxo lul.uad

'ro; nrled u! F.rolnqnl '.r B.rluo;l
?tnlpsJl o nrlu;d g.rn1p3a1 6tt ;1.,1
s-UJs lirlr \t) rrlerroHurp pnoI ol?c
'!l.riljpsf,1 l tr.rlu.rrl q.rn11,'ia,i gI,[: ril,,I

fffifi
ffi

alroJ urp I InJII 'EJnlnEq 'I 'II 'ill '/11 FcIElrOo1Z.rrlrlr[r)r!71Jirn{tlnru]Prorsd'u.ror/lJ1.rr'}lISI arr'nIIrsa,oI
'I:I:I:I
u! JBr

-cns ap 0{rrBas prrluli 'rrunli?es uuo}uo3 lalncG\J r:r-s .rpnrurr[arrl lnrraseg
' J1l?Irr0:) s a Jrf llar.rdo.rt{
rnlns npo.rd qturr;rdurr ';ro1at1J irJgFal IncrJrtads ttrJcl ""r;r;.rr:oa1i'ocnrqal rJnlESai
n,iluad E.InlfFaI FlpiurnqeJlu! lplu sor also arBO 'Ezu1d e,rn1
-EFa1 lezrpln e-s r"rnlur1s nrlprl oloc n.rtuacl p.rn1g8e1 e3
'a1$a:3-glourq-e

: EIBInqnl Prnl rla lrlrrnrEdsap Brnlrsei '*e1p.urs ,r, li:r?Jlrr"H:tfiJ *Ti:
-qsal o u1 rnprlcuo3 'nurldee?aPrpolsr,rerproeqazugrrF,erudurrrren1lg'sea.ri1Brrel uilrinrleEucreplu1luEnd-nresra'rrdEu11s
-erp Insuas llE '5lJ
rlrp BeurFJBur u1 'ero;n e nJ rnop rl roth,r 'elrlec"rp urp neurF
c

..ruur EI 'enop e nc glrun er; rjs sns ol) BmoJ lDlc'6urlEIO'3Jl:s'el .ro1

nJl?d uI TJnlgsai rarrn Beunric. s EiurzeJdal
'?llepor teur.iJ.reur u.[ f]rp o rl eurF
-'a.r;eururf.fJounerTF-JunlBFPuros'gonoe1lr tlrJ 0Lfltn:op'5;)llJruutlrptr)ro.rgn7ll1ls:'o3jr1nullu1aedc

nu:^

lBpoooJd u-s unlc 'nrrFJetrl elcq{ur ts] .}lrun 1urs 1ru e.rpc
'aylrtr1nu roI uI EJnlFs,ei o as-nprrlrrrirlo 'asnrlu.rdns r"rnlgsai
JpSsu'zJDcl 'rlslcoi)rpJnrurlo'ta1'as,nre88irug.:1t1rr1ns.roluuenddsgrzpr4eds
otrInlrr r€ur'.lnpo.rd
a{Bc ep elorBoqz?J
nldurexa op 'pli]l pmlFsai o irzezrl?oJ es ?s .rBsoceu olse
'rrnzec alaun rT 'a?dqlnru n1ls alqnp lot ug Ttnpsal,
'alrrerurl;reduroJ ollnlu ruru nBS fnop
BeA€ roa ?leur"ro] laIlsE alr.rnlr;sef r"rnleJls Jotrlnru renr
uerp'.reerrqBcl'n'ln'qwBnSfl :l'tta3r.nr11lpJ€satusf3eJB€accur'nu?dqzaeuJl!ddnnscgu"Ertn.n1rdpu8rralu$1oeocuenrrcso;1roloorlldpaloraistld(ceJl;e?ralplltqrunnrtljrrrno;rd'nglp''9tstpetgf
'8lJ
'5r1

urp mlncus ctJrceds [nepacoJd puliurnqarlul ?zearuJoJ .]s rala]lus BrntrEzrqcseg
'(S' uaunrl.rod) f e,ralue ur.rd
r.rnls.rls gnop clor e s-npuri.rgdsep 'srz-nr.rdold
Ina8s asei as 'BlsBacB ?dn([ 'J saunrlJod t4 'tft 'Fr1 14 lupooord e-s rrnc BSe

ale firelol inferioare lor : urzeala foii .[ deasupra bltiturii foilor II, ilI qi IV ,
urzeala Loii II deasupra betaturii foilor 11I .:i /Z qi urzeala Ioii Iil
deasupra

batnturii foli IL'.
Raportul bititulii date este de B/f].

3.2. lcsituri cu margini tubulrre

hr categoria acestor {esituri se irrclud panglicile, benzile de leg[torie,
la care cele douti margini sint rnai mult reliefate, datoritd faptului c{. irr

aceste locuri. se intrebuinleazd o legatrrrl pentrat {esituri tubulare (cle obicei,

Fig. 350. Legirtrrrir pentru o 1(.sirturii r.rr rrrirr.gini ttrbuhlc.

o legaturir pinzi, ul rips, o panama saLl rul diagoual cu flotari scurte), iar

corpul panglicii este format dintr-o leg[turri sirrpli" de obicei cu efect de ur-

zeah sau a'ips.

lntre marginile ;i corpul panglicii se introduc fire de separarc, iar. pen-
tru ca rnarginea sri fie ;i mai pronuntalii. se introduce un fir de urnpluturl

Fig. 350 reprezinta o astfel cle tregaturl: rnarginile sint formate din doue legri-
turi pinzl suprapuse, corpul panglicii e forrnat dintr-urr rips de batltur.l, iar

intre acestea se obserlir fitelc tle sep:rrare (puncte). Tot in fig.350 este intli-
cati o secliune in tesiitura crr mrrrgini lultulare.

Unele fesituri utilizate in scopuri telurice, de cxemplu pinza pentrrr filtr:e,
la care marginile sint tubulare, st: pLoclur: tlupir principiul expus mai sus.

Materialul fesiiturilor tuLrulare depincle tle tipul articolului fabricat. Pen-
1r'u saci, pinza pentlu hangarc, Jurtunuri etc.? se uti,lizeaza fire de cinepd sau

de in, cate sint Joarte rezistcnte la lr"acfiune, uzurd Ei acfiunea agen{ilor atrnos-

{erici. pr-ccun gi firc sintetictr. Pentru p-slturile tu}ulare nccesare irnbrf,cirii
cilintlrilol cle prcsii, se utilizcaza {ilr: de linl merirros sau figaie, care se in-
pislesc bine ; pentrLr pinze de filtru, anrelope cle automobile, se utilizeazl fire
cle bumbac cablate (bumbac pcscaresc). iar pentru fitile. {ire de bumbac cu
compactitate reclusir, pentru a absolbi birrt' lichitlcle

3.3. lesiturile cu straturi alternante

Ilig. .J51. rr reprezinl.ii faft Lrttei !esiilru'i rltrlrle. in clrt. pc un forrd uegrn,
s-an lorrnat figuli albc. Pc r.eversul fesrturii, indicat in fig. 351,b, s-au forrnat

pe un fond alb, figuri negre.,,\ceste figuri, bazate pe contraste de efect de

culoalc sau legdtura, sint rezultatul alternrrii straturilor gi anumc, unde
stratul ncgru sc situeazi ileasupra, cel alb este dedesubt ;i invers. In fig. i352

este replezentatii scherna unei astfel de !esIturi.

260

196

olaif.rpd) D rnlnlBls elu fJnlp1gq r3 1:luazln .)p aIaJrJ lzeaSrcn.rctr! cs cpun
lncol ul'n rr.rn193a1 a1u eru8al ep alalcrrntl sndsrre.rl nu-s €g€'6lJ ul'e.Iulnqnl
rolrnlgsei acr;rcads aprdrcur.rd pdnp 'rnlnprrol Ba.lruulE!?F.IonIlFfzlEeqeutSesgclupczo.srn-op
i r.rn1u;r1s
Fnop .rolar rol

-o.rrJ r3 crrusacens ap uarrrpJo prrlcrpur '.rnumrr1c.rd Imrasep flrrcc\o es -tlrp
! ErnttrSel UIP oJII qnoP rPltnclst.ror l-rs ',lr1ou.t
JrJ

rnun }!cu! laylse 'rr"rn6rJ ollrnmlrroc 'aseo.rirt ruur rrrrrl nc 'qlurza:.rtdecfJl-fasc-p 't.nt1
'lrnSlJ lrr -r-ri11 .rur 'At/eI e1r 1.rocle.r rIn
J.rEIn([nt r.illt!.rsal rcun Dur.]rps u qFl .31.,1 'lBl) Ilrzr?r lII 'R,rnlElliq u! r:r eJr? IIr,trlouI

JI, 'r.l1ucz.n1

rrl lllr? 'rnln-lrloul rnlnlrocler lnlc[np r] u{
rrJrrlll$eJI Ir1;rodnr '1a;lse i;ror.rl1ur .IrJ rntrn
ri .rorr.rdns JrJ lnull 'Irrtlr-rFcl u1 'aptrndso.r
-{),) .\tlr)lrr Itrl' .rr.[ lr_I 'I: I cl] J]F-J'c.luor.t
-a1uL ri a.ruouodns 'pln191gq r$ 'r^r1erz,rn o1l

.)lo.rJ .r.rlr.rI urj,rodo.rtl oJue rL.tlrtat['ssnclu.rcl
lsacu u1 : il.rnlqFal prl,rorItl.r l.luriu.tJlJP rs
-ns r,rnl uJls I1-rop IrIIS 'zec aprnlp5cl) r^?zuld prn1qoe31 nJ .)lpul.rotr ]u!:- r-Jtt|l.|.tlS

:(q ri r

irlequrB'1up lnldurore IrI'rJn1€Jls l^?uiDqp1"eroplouJoeJ;nr1tnr^rc3tol1ul-,rtFzuaotttrnoosJ.rllect sur-r ulIIJZ

-c.rcl ur u,rnlgsai's,ro-te.t cd'{18 noJs.l tItl'n.t3ott prrol rrn rcl ttl.r.rdsc.r',tr1
-our Boualuosa tttt lllurzo,rrlc,r 7g'tg€ '5I-,t 'rirpcl lnop c1.r.r otl tt.tttlt:..ri ll J.ll?ltlJz
-c.rd ap Inpour eliuorma cs t n;tluatl 'rr.rn1r;saj In.\rlo:lueullzPl.tIJolt€rsc.rIlt)loollsrll-ltt l)tIIl
-coclsc.r o]u] os aJrrerr.ra]lt: rJn1u.lls nt rJnl!-cal rarrn rt.nt1t3oI til.lr]tri)3'J(I

: rJrlFIJ nJ'lns!.orcpp-l(yli1t :eieJ - D 'Ttf: 'jjl.'I
frnqr>n,i.

'ale.redos pttrIJ li.).r lrl'.loI uJJt?tl.IJtltt uf iutloc
-rJ lnJnltro? arlul ate8a1 }u!s thl lsoi)B rll rollrlulsai
'ElueSEs aP ad IBurnu alo ad e-rirzod ?qrurrlos rsl ci'{'trtlttsePaP'p'- clr.InlB.rtq
llecrpu: €rurl 1n1n.r1s rS
u.rdnseap olse g IntBJls '(r".r8tl) eldea.rp urp earmri.rod rrg ptrlc cd 'lqnsopop
'8, InlBJls .rer 'e.rdnseap alsa f Inlerrs '(p,to1) u8u11s trrp uerrnri.rotl rrJ

pline). Apoi, s-au transpus punctele de legare ale legaturii b, in locul unde se
incruciqeaz6 firele de urzeali Qi batdturi ale stratului b (cruciulil€), dupa care

s-a executat anlevajul.
Fiindcd, in zona de fond, stratul c se. situeazd deasupra, filelc cle ur-
zealil alc stratului a au fost siltati: pestc tot, unde sc incrucigeazri cu fire.le
de batituri alc stra tului b
ffi
(rlorra linirrto verl"icale).
Aceste operalii se fac uu-

rnai pentru url raport din legl-

H tura {ondului: in coltul de jos.
din stinga" r,eslul fonclului va

pre zenta ar,ela;l desen ;i. in

consecin{A, legatura, irr r.estul
spati uhii llentl"u fond, se corn-

plctr)azii cu patrri[,ele pline ;

M pe falii figrr-rii s(,' deseneaz" legiilura

ffi in slragirrl corrtrrlat. i rr
gllurphrl rla t. s-au transpus
pr.nlclelc de ltgarc ale legir-
:.._ tur-ii c, (pitlrilcle pliue) si ale
r.9\ legaturii li (cr:uciulile) 9i s-a f [-

.9..- cut anlevaiul iur-ers cclui cxe-
// /// ('Lrtat pentlu legiittrla din fond
(dorrt liniu!t' r ertitralc). I)e-
Fiq.353. Lcgitrrli pcntnr o tes.{turir tubrrlar'{ cn fjqrrli oarcce, iu figur:i. este cleasupra

stlalul b. s-au ridicat {ir:clc de
lrrucalir ale lcgirturii b peste tot, unde se incrlrciqoazli cu firclc dc birt:'ttrrrii
rilt: legiturii c
Ar.ir.rd un laltol't din legiilura {igurii (4/4 incadrat.), sc relrctti tlesenul iu
lot spatitl rezer\ at t)entr"rl {igrrr'ii. Accst d.c-qen s-a rollrezentut cu r,r'ttr:iulitt:.
l{odul dc formarr-' a figurii albc pc fond negttr lezrrltii. t'nai corrc'ludent. rlin
sec{iunea tlansvcLsali a acestei fesituri.
de balirl-urir (linii corttinur:) negt'c.
Firele de urzeal:i (cercuri pline) ;i lata {t'siLtut'ii" in |o_t"
dupir cc arL f tirrna[ 1'ondrrl lr |ortiune:r ,I. Iegrrrrl Ic
liunea /J, coboalti pontru {,a, l)o {a{a lesriturii. si'r apalii Iircle rle urze:llii
(cercuri goalc) sdiabtoitnatdtusrach(ilminbiliriiintproeznirlpieties) taralbtue,ri-locar,rep\erofra{faotm{easaftiugruiirrar.palrrr"

porliunea III-a,
,1in"no.t. f irele clc rirzeali $i birtirturf negre, ca sii {ortnezc f orrdtrl'

cLrr-ef,retnsrriitdgtrilpcadtu. bdlreapceurisi.traprt:urdrielael"te!rcnsaintuterispinetrrutrttilliznatotebilpaeertttcr.u fele ilc rnasa,
l{atelialul lor cste in Itrnt'tie d,c artic'oltll fallric':l1.

3.{. ferituri duble propriu-zise

' 'l.iesa11riie cllble prol-rliu.zise constau tlin rlotra straturi suprapuse. care
.int legate intrc elc (insirilate) pe intreaga supra{a!ir. spre deosebire de

ftsiilurile lnlrulale. care -qe unesc nulnai la margine.
Tesriturile duble sint utilizatc ca stofe pentrlr irnbraclmirr{e groasi (pal'

torr. pardesilt" rnanta etc.) ; de aceea, la proiectarea legirturilot peritlrr astfel
rle 1esii1r1.i, sc \ a a'\'('t in r t'dt'rc la cele dorrii stratttt'i. c.aLtr f orrtteazii Itlsir-

262

l:0h

i c'ttltlL.l.ltItt,t t t.ttl111yi1 t:.trl

-nsri)[) 'olrunrl rlJtnr rII 'FiBrl ror.re]tIl !trlult.tls r::11r,)z.rrr I)tr!.) ']tr.)l]tr'i;llli ;r,,,.,.,

"r1ur,rtl eS rB 1ut1t9rlltt IoJ rrn a.rt.llrtOuoduIOJ LItll.ll.Ils llloll .lol,).) tr.|.llrlll-ISIII

''r.).I1lli!su!

c,lB j e s 'g,;o1s p.rnFuIs o czotllJoI Bs ur '1a1.lsr: .r1n5o1 Jl j lrrs ')l') lr') ll'l ltr')([

'llr?[l^r[.).) ,]lr

plrn .rlerr:dcs lsoJ nl? I.Irl-luJls FII0P J[aJ aruc ut.rtl 'ptlt'r,rlLru-ltl.)L]J ll-'s -
i 1s ) i e11rn)lp"Froerl;re'.t;eutIrlurntrllnal.BrtlJlIslrueJ.nsrc1Pr35rrtrr1sstttrttllssttttutr.r.ltl ll-?l.-nqrl-l.rJf(l
.ror.loclnS trllnleJls

: u!

rs, 1!J ,EIEazJrr u! l!1p IrI Jp erirodord lnlclopn- u-i- ".rt.ttls.)l) ti .rl.rttt1 l5'Ll.)il.)ll
nB .rolrJnlBJlS JIoJtI qJ eulr}es pulurj :.Il?tlIIutlJJfI puos-i)P JnJIt;)J\3 1l-.-
:677; leuo8utp Jor.ra}llr lnlu-rls nllued tr.rrr1lila1 \'}[ll rr-s -
tt "urt.e IS (/')
:-{--,'l
1iErnrau1l;?"rot-lds1uppr *un,llcu.r'l(*if.lto(tillil]'(rlfqnsI?ueuEi IJnJellEiBeSJllel)sI:rJooa:J*el.aPPBcollldnJqoltssup.JI)Bnnulp'-lIlus.JrJ'uteszIs.pInonJ.uorlgrrrpt.arlpetrlL.1sPrrr:JrrplSlro):lr'tiuL.l6rrrl.artt?d_t,t)lzln.srr-ors\lrE.lrlillpPJs.-tslll-nrl'I-t)oroJlli'si)u'lliurp{.Il'
-esrP BI'uo11et{ oP l}o}s o nJIre'a'l[rJErJunli]srlc3iaIuarllJeBlnltala;Tr5'J'It(s[i')re.,'r)tliFtr-soo.ir,iJ!'t.ir|ira1ri.rrrr1rrrl tt1
p*Er1lgrr,:"1^"d.o1Ot.t.pria?tu1ire.osrloctr1;sotrt1ror:td,a:redriot 'uriiirSqr;lrlen.trtSl.g€rldsrn.oanq.irlrradBIpet4.]li€lrtlcJnRro,lFo\JFus;.l]lor.lSol-lIP{nelIo,rtt'It'lrolrIJ1sIoo1IA.u1.)c6tc[ttlt3lis!llp(rt]..r'Bst.iIi.,JrlospoelEs-tJt:o.r.)rI',lInltnllltiJllt.tlltt]t'ltItr'r1.':lt)i?'1(r.Irl1i1'oJsJt1gSPtlPqJt.r]r,tsrttlJl
urirotlei.rtI f.) os-nptrltrntlnsa.rt{
'sns ttl sol eP c.tultgsui nr 'l_f/g .'p r.l rr \ .'lqrrP rr.llllrr.ijrI
'!1qnp l.mrEsci o rt.rlurtl p.rn1p3l'1 l'98 ;1.'t prl.rorlu.r 'l/[ lll]'lo'ln.l nP l.lnl

7 -r?.rls llnoP rolirr oluil}Effc1 rcep
'nltlulrxJ +O'llelrnla;r lnldrllnut
s rtes a1e,fia 1u!s r.rnl
otrsa Inun clot
II role:) .rolrrl-tlgFal
-rrls (noP

f -.rRorlp.I ptrlo Elr?zIlBe.I orjrpllo:)
'.].wut trarcf ]roclcr rtn grrtiqtr
JS nll FS atropo^ tt eJ.\Lr IUIU B',{'

r,q'rrJnlqFaI ea'le.8epr u'1
.:}IIAIOAJT

itrESurlrnl!,l)teJlidir-I FS.rl').llJ lr'r n.rltt.rd

r.relol.l PJIJ t.rnf ri
--rnll)r?azarrlrulnqerlorarnallsse'(ia1nnrslueei d-e1.roBrI
'l"nllol] nt rJnlf FrSaIcRuezoIIlIllenc-l Jeop't

a'- '(arsap.red ep
clot-r) alnnrd lJ Jorl o.rBc elols
n.qucd'nldurcxa oO'?sndns
r.l u,r aJac BI'eJ€srur1 ep epriu:ado op rE JoleJr;_eolulllP.j aP'rtlnlgsai rlo'rnz
p.,r"".,,,rti nJlrred'11rn19ffo1 Po.rllrt{e.}s PrI
.i1rtrr "p p,,r oi'ror.racln'lisrluInclneJ.Illss
EI.IB o rS pnlgFal q11u o ua:rtl aluncl
rs gleezrn oP Jo]oJtl BauIIs.rP r$ uJIuIsoJS
l,lelJatlsrnrasJ.€rocl"r;le,eaa.rueaorlunees'epucr(i.[r'cE[ JentlJEal]FEqtu cl*olr.rd oc u! cJo]IP q-r 1od 'f1qnp e.rn1

sub b-atddteusrcaenindfeenrito,acriand; urzeala stratului su,P€rior leagd. in unele puucte, Pc
de in-sdilainrsetrrinlaernefaionmaitxetd;, fesItlrrd,
utilizindu-se, in aceeaqi cele doui tiPuri

- insdilarea cu fire speciale de urzeald sau de bltdturti.

o
o
&
tc

Io/

'r)

Fig. 355. Lcgituri n*t-, tTurl;: tlubl,r cu insi-rilatc de sus

LOergteatuinrispiiclalrrr"fu,-lue1s. auttuilrizi ad,ubselcvsainutrrmediraitecainasfipge.c3tu5l5c,e3l5or6d-ioi u3i57fe. .stituli s[
,ir. fie alterat, cleci firele cle insiilare sdL nu apar[ nici pc fa1tr, nici pe Ieversui

lesritriarrii.ado,ptarea tipului cle insirilare, se va line seartti de legflurilc f-ici"i:eloleL

cloul straturi, .le desimea, finelea ;i c'alitatea firelor. de proporlia dintrc

H

Fig. 356. Legituri pentru -tesdtuira dubla, cu insiilarc mirti'

;.usir;;u",:"l;)tuteiirrr;t..i;ero;talrireleeJgpSaio"rtite"urinz.ruaiftnei,"etr"s*ioi.Iacapuiirrneoafp,eipurdrliniivecociarttoeitp,l,edeploaareuagranliiitlplpreaeuusdnptceceeaterffzifirourdtulrlsealadrredaieneats,lb6caeiailsatcrtirteateeur-leoerD-ilvoiiaan2rnsfsusieimui,lsapecueript:ereuipoqsarrtd.eisrcnAleeluuInsladdltaoett.rrinlraetianrta,i'

264

992

os ela 'rllFalrp clElrler op ]u!s alllazJn g.r u]rtotl psttl 'pzeazr]Bdulrs rrnlqFal
Bnop oler Er olPol nc'p1eaz.ln ap rrnlns Enop €ztll]n Jo,\ os']ep lnzer uI

'(f ) lotltrod e.rr1lc nc lelncaxe elso alal.rer op rnlniuel Inllasao

'aJIJ reulc nBs
totl'zac rrn rJrrl u! lisu! 'a;r1 ldo nes asui ri plucls u1 c3er1 nualnd cS 'I:1
ap elsa eriroclo;rd 'Eluezrn u1 'gc n;r1uad 'relods e T inspo o-JluI_ eJrJ n.rlucl a11lr
sEJl nu-S 'o,qnpoJ rttu rJnl.ro;e "rottn astrdnr^ 1J l n,rluarl '17 1ndloa LII elrPg/i?u
lSoJ ne 'oJeortadns .1Ior:IJonJlIaI xIenIeBA-sruBqrJnrpst?r,ttlrl-errllll'Btgcf:'.r'oFur1eprrrtrpInulrtrlnel.pr1F'staqala1nqar.urlur;de'odau1m*orrtLut
r$ irnd;ro;r Enop uJ

-nu os :lJeJJP lsact i EJn-lrsnc o Elltlnccxa r] .lI l].rtr]l:rsai u1 urnc 13 el 'r.rn1rl
,u!pe rrrul el.rgde .lernorli,sr\ozro.tr.rrIunuIlfrs?p]el?il]rie)r'Eupieors..JnrrJpeeJnlciJrrlztoroullc^srrl'JsluueJlrJr.p.,rrrEtr?"pylnlLol^lrerss-qntlrlI!rr!cor.P-JI-ntn]sJtrIlJoepllJJsJBuicon.,lucIona[ l.JeJourJrJIrltdlorrnlp-oInJuJeeiorJraells)l

'.rouoclns rnlnl€.rls
lnlsoJ rrr r?lr.roqoi

.srp 'qsBep g.rnlgse'i o-.r1tr1 'aceJuoep';rr; tsol-ZI llt.rertlc r$ EoI-B IB'ee1-9 1e ed
J-1cJeuEar.Iltl,r)ipslBnr?ooJrcu.rrrtrssilrarp?ssauup!o'J'JfSrtnsdI:lnrlBisI8ui ol'elr..rarBrpiJt'|Jtrosalull.ilrlrnrsoleoJrp[lrs'.cr soruJ[ooJu.rrJJ8uollrJu.]rtrPstrLPc"IeellrJJirtoItdsqaoolr-edh6lo'ulop1'LIlneulrsnr1l.Brdoeld-at'i

-a.r eenrrJllnl cp optrrdap rI.IEIIEStrl BJ.renlfolir n.rlttetl 91r:lclope eiue1sr11 -

'rnllruoseP 1ni1ur1.r rr1 'nuolnrn clezrl.reclc.r .rrJ !s ,r.,,t[l.ittt ,,

r: n.ryuecl 'r.r*rorI r.op c.rrrrr -.'":?lr.r.:l,,",Jrt:.r,.1J.i,:,;.i.:,:,u"rllirl,Jjit:j,r1T,r,"]?*,;;r"

'Bl..1 .rf

olsJ oJrc'rr.rn1pFe1 lnl.rocler *rrr,U*ta cs'tupltqsttt ltil.Illluezo'rclo.r 9cln11

'!luJzrtt oP clut:rlds l.u;
ur.rd c.ruppsul nJ '!]qnp grnt!sJi o n.rlrnd q.rn1g,'l11 'Igti '31.,1

19 t,

ffi

p1*rza.rrle.r a.rriqns Brrrrl r'r 'ror.raclns ql'azrn .,p l".r,;?;t;i:1";t;"t'i:";'f ,ltii,ii

t'6euISnrIi;arllsuerzr!rnr?a;)pruJlroplcs.rrrrr1riellnez.roeJ8allueapprI'\n.)PoIewlttl?'(o3lp'1utrgcf1i:^'3e olI.r)uolourl1ad'g'n-r"llufrirIp.nmltl5llutlo{l[
ep In.rrI elsacl qFnel Jor.relur f IIBez.ln ep IrulJ Tt l?}P'Ie orelrrsrl! ep lcund

cornpor'ti dilerit la Iiuisare. Set vor intr'ebuinfa trei suveici: o suveici pentru
sulrerioarir. (rare nu preziutil f lotiri pentru
ltriliitura pe f a{a !esaturii. iar
lrirtiitrrla infirrioari se ror utiliza douf, suveici, datorit:i floterii ci in erterior.
lialgl[r,rtiil.izianr.csapeaciadlousuirb-"ruavpeoicrituesl tceodloerirsattiru:,rdqissirdi eetveitrem,inacstufenilf,oanpuaizrailriaeasrtrnaattue''
rilor ln tesdturi,

ffi PI

ffi+l 123456789

'li

,r{2

ffi ,s/ {
J

ffi
i 72j459289 I t?
Lr ,9
Fg

Firr. 358. Lcglttrlit fcntltt o 1('siiturit rlubli cu insiilalr rLr sus in.ios.

ln fig. i:j5.1. proporlia dintre Iirele de urzeali qi firele de batatutir ale celor
rrll.leaosiulorttr,icittsiatrrtcafatirl.rrc:raisezu-ucbrileiilroiirt.."ipaIer'1npt.reuAntfvraiunlacIel{YeiLns'rasvt,euudrinei rvmeaadfteiesrfitaoinlloainsfiifaterufieonsr,fm,tfuairtrceilroirarnladsiuugbploleear,isoeirn.,
Ilr-ident r.ii si yl'opor{ia tlintrc lirelc straturilor poatc suferi modificrili. La
lr2el:e"1gc"iii.tarsrttrirltadtinrirnlusIriuzgpe.ear;liiio5i.r8c.\-ipAtr;oai\prco.ianrf.ibair[tttiulrintlzuterreiai,hficrgueimleinrsebuzlptuealrttaiuoradarie,nfsitrileeisnerfrenlaruiiol falirrrlreecl,iernjsaitnrcacdrc;el
irr{erior'. l ilc mai groase.
s-l atloptat o legituri cliagonal cu raportul R : 6
Pgr1f1 stratul slperior.
si cele i[ouii pirrli irlurtice. deoarec'e aceasti legdturri sc preteazir bine la
eviden{iate in tnesuri egali. fiindca
pi11! ,si sr,,irnoiit. I rzeala 9i biiliitrrra sint urzeala tlc c,
sint,l,'aco(',asi lali tatc pi. i1t:'r'lrrLirrgirt'd t'ulo'are. ial lraitlitura

rlc altri crrloale. pc fa{a Lesirturii se va ohtine un efect bicolor'
Dtpii t'e s'au transpus legaturile straturilor' -s'il cxecutat anlcva'iul ;i
:sitcrtrsJdcr iiftlicurstrritalr:tillleeegsbcareittini\i-rt.luelln'iril.'di?ln"ciunirlfnecresior"crn.aoirata(r'tiarzaiclradcoufiilrecuealrccdueerric.uailazrreataliarliicpIierfsfioruurpalereldiaoer t'artelelor
stb firul dc birtiluri I inferior (fig.
lcagi pe
rtrodul ile lcgarc a firelor de urzealti trzeal| 4

spper.ior.ictgii pe :iSB). Sectiurrea S lon'
gilLrrlinala indica
I 9i 2'
Nirr-r-rdirca s-a f iilrr[ 1n douii r'orpnri" iar de-<cturl larrfrrhii tltt t:at'tclt cstc
1',rzitir ( -).

2Gil

L\ti

'r.rrrJr.li,rl r.)ls,).)l't tl.).rtlru.r().1 rl.rl(r,)(l ti:lI llrlJ{}rlr:.t rr.r'r-rp:,rz.nr.)l) l?t.ll)n g.tn1r-rFe1
o 1t:1rlo1rr': r)-s rr.lrllES.)i n:ie1 n.rluod'r-rlerrgldarrI !rnl ,)l) rrrs.rP.rurI rr.r1u.rd loi.rJtor]
tlrult l-rlllurls,)lr JJS.r trlols ,).).).Ill().)lr .,s' t^t.tr0r.r.trlrts lr.ilr'lr.rre,)l llrrr.)s,)l) l?-s -

i).)rlr.rnq tr.rr.r1rr,rz.r.rrl.r.r .cr*rsrlr;)r( ,rr:.r rrJlrratl '.)[rq)r.rprlr.runlr..)s,rlir,');.,t]u;:llr:UllS].rlJrIlilt-il;
-.r.rri.r.r 1191; iJ,l'ttJlr.)zJil ,)l)
,)lnr,)e(Is

-l^?irrr.rn*n nt ESurls^rp .)l r^.ls In.ro]!s.rj Lr rr.rluetl 'qsrrl.)rrl
J.rll()lll.).)l) lrlttll t* 1tsl11.rsop.).rnOIn;) Jl .tIJ llrl-.rltItl) Jlt.rilsL?.I lrrts: (t.trIllr.rls- Brlol)
.r1.r.r trr;r).).rlJ al-9.)l).r!urnu rrrr r3tlnlr'r.).ri(lr),)1,'Lrzn.)nr.rl .).r.f JlsJ.)\r
'l.lllllr.rli tnol .Io[.r.) P.)JPll!]r-u! [JJlsr .]s-lll)tlIlll.)J.lJ ".lol.lJj ttI lnl.)J ll l.[rl
prrr;r'ror.rirrh.rs rnJrr:ll?.r.1-( l? ll.lnlul!([ o lrlserl put)'lr_\r.lJocl .lo1 u1
-Bl!rl o rJns atl

'prr15.r1 '.ror.r.)Jltr ri.tor.r,rdrrs olr.trrlp.tls;lJlrrl l^]zll.)nlrs Js.).ll.rln^rslr Jl) JIJ.rrlil

rllr' o-.rr.rr) ,r1rrp.rrtr.r ,r?i r.,r*.)r.rr ,,,

ili,#:"'il:ttrt .ttl ,rlRrrrirr.; rr1 r( .4 t.)lrsI.t '.)ril.1 Jl.nr"o.,Iii"'r]1,)1.)1t(,[o:''rJ,,ll)li,''llu'*l!;sl,li,l),.,tfpt1lt,!'siirr! .)p .)lJ.rr,l
'J.n:ln-lsll! Jl) l:lt?,Jz.nl n..r,l[uf .rd;rl;ulrr..rro,arlsllslni^
L?zl).,ztllln,)q '.)Jl.l nlulr r;).ll:ll,lqu| ;r1lrrrr.r]..r.rrtr[lII!l.u!o-l(s[zuBT.r prrlr]
oltr.)]srs ltJ
'l-?l\tIu ll.).tlrltl-?ctIr'11.)lrrA.)'t311nzlr.r nlrlclt.tli 1t l-ll11lrr,)zJ.lrI.r.t tr.rrrrrri.r,)s rrr(I
-'rui,i)r.)rsrllrs1rirlt.'c).nrps'L'6llSrt{r;rr'.rlliJlJ.nu]lIltllsl'l}uup.!li)lr"rrrSqrrrZJ'(eron.rilnutl,rrrrr..rrrr.aJr.aPr.)rtlUilljlltu.))Js!,lIl)r?r.-trnrno-ll.t))^is?l|Jsrl.n})irrr.0)<'1ls'(,)er;r)};ltt;rlrnnrr.rrti:t.lru[a)Js([rrlrr1rerpS
':^oIr,rrl ri t-rjl.;.rlI ti.r1e1.rntI r1 prrrlnrl.r1,r'.r1rr1rsrr.tJ.t.ri.rnllrrr J_q r.rnl!Soi ap,
JJJIr \' ',).r,)l lI LrS llJl tttl Jtl r;t.tlolttr) .Illol) 'rl.rqr[ ,11or1IIrn or[ 1:r,rdsr rsr:[,r.rr: u.r.rn

'!ll\lur JJBlrFsnr ni)
q.rnlnlrlrun.rl) lrll.rz.lrr n) E[(lnp lj.lnt!s.rl o n.rlrr.rtl q.rrr1q5.r.J 6!f:.;1..1

a

a
o

a

a

o
a

t,t r.rnlt:s,ri 'rirrr.rcs-rro.r rrI 'rresJp r:'u1acr n8 g JoueJrrr lnlc? n rs a JorJedns.
urlrilllJ.lr tz.tttlt-rFlr1 l.) l?lnlstlo;) oris'.)l..Irrl?l?,)zrult!ln'Jr[.1[[l.rrll)tror.rrlrtl"qltr:sz.rrilprui)llrn'lBInlltnzruseBJJs.)aruPo]-u.frallrrdnr!zJJJJrdJ
-JJ 6!f: hr.,1 '2!rrrrr uilDlteslt!

csri ri aFrr.rl lorl Js Jpp'ro1etls.)lJ'lrrrp gFrr11 irrl nu rls J()r.r.)J{lr rjluazJn JI}
InJIJ EJ lJJl:-t't-rirtsr.' r)-.rlul J.ltJ l.).tl lt.r lltlil.).)\.) rr-s l1rrds rrr ea.raFu.r.1

s-a ulilizat, ca legitur* originarl, un atlas de bitaturl r1 {]/3 (intticat cu
ppuonrfci-a-tei)nss"t-qr-aeai idneuetxraszeeiercnilutialtectaultesdguceirptiseteuerrpniaouaalitnrrpifrretepirliuiomirnalcfirnetaearirojdapegreitiinn,atntrcluurarinrrueeer,zee(suptancarl;tdrdr.iaeallgien2olei:nn1and,le2sgae/rp2eao)r.,in,;atodtedrllrlpoa-
;paosregiafireestdeeduerz2e:al;li, urmeazi uu fir special ile in-"iilare z.; in ]ratirturir, pto-

ICorp it

Corp II ti

1t

l!

Corp W

il

',,

;l I
Ic

Ii'ig.360. Lcgiituri prntln o 1r's[tuli rluLLi cu insirilale plin {ilc rlc ru'zcali.

5elaereina--crfuircssei--glAaoauurrettsrraatarlnnaesstupuprullruzssei plpiiniuufn;neiccrtbtieoellltrceir(tddcueenrrilclieti-Lgs'gruaaliprlreeee)laiao;lalecrelele(ggpaidttrturrrirfiieii lseiunpfucte:lrigiooraea)rtee; , in puntrtcrle
ln irrtrruci.

rioare- s-au anlevat firele cle urzeal.l pentrtL insiiilarr: i. pestc britirturi]c in[e'
(doue liniule verticale) ;

birtdt-urasa-aleu anlevat firele de urzealii ale stratului supclior pcsl.e firelc dc
stratului inferior;

insdi-laresa-.auFrierpurlezdeentairtr,sapielafrierelleeadgeii,inaslitielarrn:ea,tipvu1n.cretesllec Si cercurile cale ilclici

o biilirturii superioarir

(punct) ;i pe sub o bdtdturti inferioarir (cerc) ;
s-a executat nir-iclirea in trei corpuri, indicatir de eristerrli1 n 11ci
urzel-i. Iiirele de insdilale fiind
de calitate bunl gi in rrurniir redus, s.au niirri"
tlit in itele din corpul 1, cele mai depirtate de lesitor ;
urtnir-intlus--aserecparedzienntetalet tfag;erea in spatii Sp, cu citc ;apte fire intr-o ciisutii,
spetei sd fie intre dou[ firc de urzealri superioarri. iar
fiml pentru insailarc sd nu {ie lingi dintele spetei ;
s-a stabilit uumirul elementelor lanfului de cartele
;i s-a- executat de-qenul lanlului de cartelc cu citire pozitivA trc, s-au nurnerotal

(*);

268

696 '!.lnl!t!([ oi)],nf.,.rrlru].ur(r[.l(ql .Jrn.rrM:lr!!i.]isTu!'Ilgl.,flulq'tnlPrI
!-:.ni 1Is.)i
'LlrnllrJ(Iuur Jl, !rlr|.Iz
-.ul il.)'!rl{frl) qrnllsJl o rr.r'}ui)rI !.rrl!r-.r.1 'el)s';:.,1

t99

tlur

ffi

'r.nunJl s

rrrP r?rilrnl rla.rrJ cP i)11?FeI IJ tod nu5^ .roIrJlr]u.rls rr.rBIlBSu! lltlo.r rs: rrrrlrlcPtt1
1or[ "9strr 'p1upo;r11o :.lolr.rn]uJls^ elr.rr.l a[r s1rffa1 llrlb- rur p.rnlnltlunr Jp elo.rr]
'J.Iou;)re rrI 'tl.lllor.roIrlr allllrlu,) oP r1 Pu11nc[ JoI InIBr.Ialuur'cJBur rBur cnrrs-oJ3 o
l^?qr: l^rs.nr{[a.rl'rnprrloos aprrurlsa.roc u n.4uatl'grnlnldutn cp rIIezJn oli]Jrrl

'9,rn1n1clurn ap Elnrrnrr 'tleezrn BraJl r o

' rJrr ) ll.rl s illi-eJB o;t1rrr'e1uc.ro1rrr cluod ranr as'e1clrp runlgsai elrJnlu.rls pzearu

-.ro t ,).I11,) 'r.ur-;r;1qr1 r$ rlaz.rn rlnop clac qFu11 ecl'eJetu ruur eurrso.r8 o rrJnlgsai
rs l? .rs- p n.rlrrJd
|lr t] .3 .pJntnldun ap pleazrn nJ elqnp lJnrpsel .I.g.E

'91ua3n1dr3:r op llJnlljlp(1 o rt q.rnlnldurn op

ll.rulr-rtB([ o nus plue$n1dr3o ap fIBezJn o rS q.rnlnldut ep fluezJn o'91eaSn1d1ro

o1i9.m1g1qq o'91eein1d4D ep qluez.rn o'g.rnlnTdrun ep r.rnlllfq o'qrnlnldurn cp
!:ll?.)z.rn o 'rrq.rnfcrrltrg q:rlnp 'as-npu1zr1r1n auriqo eluod es lellnza.r lsa?\i
'rJnlBJls rnoP .rolac uoJcrrndBJdns urJd glurrrirp

Det ]!JJp o.rErrr n?ttl orttrso.rre o rrrnlgsci e.rnSrsg as ?s.Ie)^otor[ olsc''tJoartl

plee3ntrilpa rt urnlnlilurn ep arq nc .e1qnp rrnlcslj 'g't

'o+u.).t.JoJJ r;rqrfi.r1 nr-r<I 'r-rlxrrnrJl retu J.r.ulrqslrr o l?lnoara, es^ 'corEraua rutu r'rtlrJ
-rlos- .rornl 'rr.rgluorlxc rS rr.rrsrurJ InsJJo.rd ur 'esndns .ro1r.rn1qsei InzBc rrJ
lllr?ludzJJd ?lpsJJ.lsunJl ucunrilas urlr

L2llnzJ.r urn.r'rJn1r.r1s llnol) c{Jr e.qul tlunlrs o}se aJBI{FSrr! ap BJnltlpg'(1cund}
BluJz.rrr rp .IrJ rrn qns ad r* (crac) elsad lArlBuJelIB 'EFBaI lrnlflqq r$B?acu l!cu!
clsIBSuI luIS r.rnlB.rls BnoP eIoS 'lullund Eluoreur elso aJBIrrsul ep
'lJJlsB

lpt.rnrrll.rrl,l^,rrlqic'.sreorlorr}urarlSa.'rEd .rInnulrotsalpE u!'I9t'Er1 I u1 'Jolrcraans Iutjurnu rJEur aluGd os
q ap I e rods r! I nc aa.reIrI sllrl.*O

JIaJTI nr .rolrJnll?.rlb^ Ec.lulrBS{rI Bzrlr}n u,t os 'JBJ;rroc zEJ u1 1(ualulrliqrsot{
rrr/pls!ii)\rr1eaol.r,rrpr1sur1or!cl-)Balcpur;prIeuacrrlolr'scrg.Irnsrisq'gnu'sprnSs"erl.eruouurrsrlFepncnoaclruruf'u9rclolsnl.receorae(.6urJenedrrlonriagrsarsaIsual!ucucr1?pII'aurrrcn,rrluneJe1zu9JrI3ns'ag1o16IdaenI.lsIdrraeI$4anu.nr'12prraeugrd1lueralzntwa

I'ig. lt62 reprezinti legitura unei lesituri duble c,u o urzeali de urnplu-
turi"r (firele de urzealii 5 qi 10), cuprinsa intre cele tloui straturi, fdrl sa fie
legatd de nici ud(nsreuuapl pedtrainiotlrrcc)gseiitleu7.rS(iiin,tr{ucecartriueorrai)n.dleiscfa,tuerviiorluelziault{dir,eelovirdednet,udr.izneasleacl5iun1edae
prezentatd in,

umplulurd), 6

fir Itr aceastii lffeiirgriit-nt'rtfrrepirre,iorpiorr,ro'uptno'rurflifaisrurplti"en*rtirroe'r#,fiufrlnc"u1el s;i:ntetf"eufrxiitom-rua, tu;olna$refti:ari:lldirenl"uu:,;rmzi"ep1tlrul"atuf,frur:n;
in
b_sautaptelrriroar', un
trn

late ascendent. curn se constatl in fi-
gura .s ;i in secliune'a tesAturii. Nlve-
ffcut in trei corpuli de ite.
direa s-a

de 3.5.1. lesituri duble cu bdtiturd
umpluturd. Firul de umpluturi,
indifer,ent dacii estc de ruze,ali sau de
bdtatura, trebuic si aibi o grosirne
rnare ;i s[ Iic cu cornpactilate redusi,
pcnll'u r.:r s:i lllilreasca gOrosuilrnzecaali!reseau-

turii, plin volumul lui.

s tmc [urir af irratii prczintir dif icultr'r1i in

procesul leserii. de ace,ea c:ste rnai avan-
st' utilizeze o batdturir de rLtn-
lajos si
pluturi. De ase'rnenea, bdtdtura cle um-
plutrirri, ca si urzeala de umpluturi,
poatc f i rruprinsi intre cele douii stra-
trrri, frirri sii fie inslilatri cu nici unul
situ poate -qI lie lcgati de trnul din stra-
Fig. 363 Legituri pcntlu o !tsr'iturii rlrrlrlii turi. Fig. 363 reprezintd legatura unei
cn bitituri tli' umplntrrrt-r.

fesiitur:i duble. cu batatLrri de umplu-
tura. carr: cste r:'uppl113ri intre cele douir straturi ale fesdturii, fdr;r sA fie legatd
de nici unul. Propor'fia intre firele clt urze,a]ii super:ioare qi inf,erioare este de.
firele de batiiturii crisli. proportia: unul superior, unul infcrior,
2: l, iar intre
unul superior, unrrl rlc urnpirrtutrii.

3.5.3. lesituri duble cu urzeal5 de cdptugeald. 0 alrir rnetodd, prin
care se asigura le-siturilor tlublc o grosirne mai rnare, constd in insailarea, sub
stralul inferior. a unei a treia urzeli, numit[ urzeale de crptugeale,'Urzeala
de cdptugcalf, nu trebuie con{undati cu urzeala stratului inferior. Firele urzelii
de captugealA au o flotare lungir pc dede.subt, iar, din loc in loc, sint insailate,

legind peste o bitltura a stratului inferior.

rcoalputulDgdeeoeaa-laracetimeespuarritzmueraaiil.aleMdsearttceullrrpiiatiulouglegaarcloicsasimtpeaeireumrnzauerilnimapiaorpaee,teree{aviep-rdsoeualtcelaeflsoitiratmuteraiii,n, tfaoertf-oaiodraiardtaie,,
in comparalie cu urzeala celor doul straturi.
rzIslazt:rteaIp:ltJFiurio.ilgd,upe.ioi3arsc6luriial4ppinteiurntresritopreeerra.eflfiazbririenecltluleieer gsdldeatercgtaui_brtrutuaaurlzrtsiaienttaurfuleaarnitr,uesiouildurpaeie(spritiInouf:efanelrlcar.dti.aoeLtirnfe,eefgiessaitrfteni,uoturiacnarridr,iimocpgaoertiendddpturerrluiedcdzcidecianparttirenuaegsasleei-iaagiualaarurzt,euteidrlliaiea.i
de ciptu;ealf, deasupra batiturii inferioare) ;i s prezinti
straturilor (ascendent). modul de insdilare a

270

TL6

a,,"I.p:rr-u,I-l:€ro*Izt:frtnIre,aEip.rnE"3l1ur1r.z"ue-,.1rrpr"larrrtltrte9ln9s.€urloe.eFd Ia-drso1'taauJcnsaJ3Ielu'J[rlJs: I op o]sc llrn]!.1]?q alarl] er]rl! rul
eri"rodo'r6 'r'rnlrisai op Iellse
i)4u!

rJnzer eeuaurase 'gcr1ce.rd u1

'fleez.rn eP e.rulueurrldns

orurlsrs Bnop alac gFnepu as oJ€c e1'ilrn1gsai ollJnleJls ?z€aIuJoJ aluc IJnlElqq
qnop ri t trofqfqq gnop r$ rlaz'rn nrled Eeae Jo,t r'rnlgsei ep IaIlsB
.op*sy r:luc1zr"n"*ltnr.oIpp op EIuazJn o ts 11" lg'rn1rlldurn '?rnlgsei
ep Eleazrn o 1!1e

jrp5uleeaoesenlnd;rplucead p,uz1r6p'lngrlnO1dn"1adw'rrn-rne1lPls'EaPileeleaeienzJldrunplucnrucaupterolrqrnunlrqsPlocrFqFn?olnpeosupatipqfzo'e9Be'9zn'rg.lrIllllrlaeds
.J.rltur rtsul aurso.rfi o rr.rnlgsai eurr'tdutr es r: uluatl 'ctu't c1'reoJ unzBe uI
' ( BIeeE

,-,ngrn.".1lr.tn9,lg1*Flgct"sq)1at2ftriarrltusteenr(a.Icrn'(opJsror.e:r'l19ynu[9;uHr€)nng'.c3tt'lo(iI)..)rcuoeelrulrrea1J>dp^uneJeesou)rsrn9J€rofcE]aourlqrnulllErn'(ql]ugsBnquIclSeJ]peunclrcs)oIEgre'1r:JneqralIt$senrlr1lnsidnp'IFrlo:oncIda:or6eePpra?onprlurIcorloznJa'llsEsJed]oglolqtJl

qlerrinldge op oIeJ rS ror.relur 'totJadtts rnlnleJls olu ?Jrll?]Eq oP aIoJII aJlul
aJeouodns EIeazJn op oIeJII a'r1u1 eri'rodor.1
.rr,r '1: Z cp olso e.ruorra;ur-rS
op lollsu roun e.rn1gFa1 rlurza;rder 99t 'FI$
lunlgsai

.olqnp t.rn113s;j n,rlulr{ liluos.llldllr Jl} rrralsrs n:l rr.In.J!]E(l Berle,zlTrlll EurtuJa]eP

cp E.rlnldru' op EIurzIn ."'ul."iillli". ',r,'"., s.rn1s5a1 'rut '3lJ

68 t i1l

if#rfffifi ole c[ern]
(elrcarl BI rsnPa'r Eiuolsrza;r rB elelrlcudruoc) qeainldpl cp rolerrJ '7'9'g
.rn.rts cTrortsrralc€rn] '?l€asnldpJ eP PJnlPrPq nJ elqnP ;rn1psaf,

'11rn1gsef rrtnrsorF u Elenluocce r€ul aeJalse'rc ruriqo es Is
aJrlolpSza.rr^rnrplern[e..zrrnJ1neadosnrqe3l8erue.1rs1nnleqldsdEo'goi c"orflpa1rrll"radjzrtruynr'?'agnz1oeepez$rJnyolldnlepcce?srpeprsBrilz?ulIalrdzllrrlunllrlr{€lrn!dooP'srJJene}oE'I }o'E9u1q€etoar$gnno1pd-grsc
'(91ueSn1dgo

irl) o.lso 6 tnJII) 6 It B '2 e,leeztn ap rolorrl erinlola g1urzalder eetrnrfcag

unpluturi, af ara tle rolul de a asigula fesnturii o grosime nlai rnare, prin volu-
mul ei, mai are Ei rolul de a inslila cele douf
sraturi (punc;t gi cerc).
insdilarea urzelii de cf,ptuEeah cu stratul inferior este reprezentatf, prin
triunghiuri (fig.366, c). innici un caz,urzeala de clptuEeala nu se ins{ileazi
peste bfttf,tura stratului super'ior, deoarece, pe lingi suprasolicitarea ei. ar
atuprI5re,aunpdeefaslaesfetesinturzreii.a' lainsuapceereiaogairdfi,g&urei setesteurpzreeazleandtaetduompsleuctfuiurdn,e in tes:i-

,care" in

ircelasi timp, inslileaza cele doua

isatrractucris.t'.ef 'este urze'ala inf,erioari,
urzeala de ciptugeale.
inl sLeafaacteeaa,sst[tffeelr:sitsu,e,rda,nlaenveleavzaf-,
rr.rzeala superioarir peste bltit-or';a

inferioari. apoi se anlel-cazi
urzeala de urnpluturf peste b5td-

dttrt,:r'afxpin1f,,e1li,ocairdac. e{sint ifnidruf-asceesEeai mini-i

sriilarea celor doui ,str:aturi.

bitd3t.u5r.6i .dfeesuimtuprliutduurbi lge,i cu
de
cdptugeali. Pc limga cele 4 sis-

terne de firre constituiente ale stra-
turilor, rnai pot fi utilizate, ca
I6 sisterne suplimerntare, o bltlturir
de umpluturi gi una de ciptu-
;oali. Fig. 367 reprezintd legitura
Fig. 365. I-eg5turtr pcntru o tesitrutr dubli cu
bittiturl de ciptu;cali. unei astfel de {esituri : propor{ia

intre firele de urzeale este de 1 : 1.

i'ar intre firele de bititur[. de
l:1:1:1.
Realizarea unei leslturi duble cu bdtlturi de umpluturn gi de cdpttr;eali
t:ste rnai avantajoasi decit a unei leslturi duble cu urzeali de umplutnrn qi de
r:iptu;eald, deoaroce, pentru bdtituri, se poate utiliza un rnaterial tle calitate

inferioarii, deci ieftin.
Legltura o reprezinti legatuna stratului superior; legitura 6. legltura
stratului inferior i iar C, reprezinti modul de legare a b[teturii de cirptugeali.
Anlevajul s-a flcut prin trecerea urzelii superioare peste birtatura dc

umpluturi, linindu-se seami de faptul ci aceasti bltiturf face gi inslilarca :
apoi, s-a anlevat urzeala superioarir pestc bltirtura inferioarii ;i bittritura de
ciiptu;ealii.

4. f,esbturile multiple

'fe-riturilc rnultiple sint utilizate, in c,ele mai multe cazuti, p€ntru scopuri
tehnice ca : imbr[caminte pentru cilindri, benzi pentru carde, curele textile
tle transmisie, benzi transportoare de cereale in silozuri etc.
fesdturi este, de obicei, {irul cablat cle bumbac,
de Materialul pentru astfel de in ultima vreme? foarte frecvent iutrebuintate.

lini sau pAr de cirnill, iar,

sint firele sintetice, fiind rezistente qi ieftine.

272

'sns ur so[ ap c.iuil!s lolrrnlqsaj s3.retJarold ri e.rnt:n.r1g - ${
.ri! nc plfh.rl prnlgsal o rrrluad E.rnigtc.l B9f '?lBriutdpr rp rE Ernlnldutl rp !t.rutqtI([
rro q.mlqsrf o u.rlued Ern]!3r.I lgg 'FI.,I

'prnlnidurn .)p Eiurzrn nc Blqnp q.irlqscf o n:r1uad p.rniq8el 99g 8ic

, fn s

0ffiffiffi

Fig. 369 Legtrturl pentru o lestrtura tripltr cu inslilare mixtd.
Fig. 370 Legdturtr penlru o lestrture formattr clin

patru straturi suprapusc, cu instrilare prin fir special

de urzealtr

'cle aleprod

'eladrea'lud ep rJnlJeanc'pseur ep eie;'epqour n.rluad aluzrlrin 1u1s r.inlqsai ap
oIotrIrlosJvr'pFloqrnrnplpnsuasi gldurrs p.rnlpsei o-JllII r?ruJoJ uolnd lr'-s nu aJBr'c.le;lo1oo r"rnSry
Inuase('alcurlslp
ul1lie'elou'ruIiqruorur;Bnrd-InicluJ3lcsureprduuJrorBeluroaI0lEezslBrllltpn?nr.euxs1aurn1Es.I-qasc1rcdrrJrI1n1JlnEoullolqer1r1lrrunu1.rc9u.3uruarr51uor1la;er1dr
lnpou Bc r.rEr[Jn ua es '1uur; rnloc B 16 .retrrurrla.rd rnlnuesoP BcJ?lnJoxa BT

ap erll acez.rolarur"rd Fulu'JrzJoJdpoleJuOrplntlr'83uloi l uelaprrInricBaIess.Jrau^r'spu.renr1l 1eia1ugrorrie"o;tg"""'i;
'JolrJnluJls e1e e.redur rS e.red e1r.rn1q1pq elsed
rcurc Joleurr.rd urinlo,te

'ar1eurel1e ?'gd3nue61'IeJ:BIc 'oJBIrFsug n;r1uad lurcads .rIJ un allc EzEeuIJn qlBOzJn aP
else JolrrnlBJts ole rJnlplqq {luazrn ep oIerIJ
errl ruled : I : I op puraE ?JBcarI 'asndBrdns IrrllBrls nrled lezrl
a.rlul eri.rodoJd 'Ezuld ern198a1
-BaJ ne-s epun 'g;g 'FlI utp rr.rnlp8el Inzec u! lepacord B"s IaItsY 'er?lrpsul op
aJII ap elercads ourelsrs nc rS'gsug'ecu1 cleod os JolunleJls eaJBIlFsuJ
'rorJaJur InInlBJls ele Frnlplpq ep aTe.rIJ qns ed pu13a1
nrpaur rnlnlurls e1e erud gleezJn eP elerrl Jur 'o.rotlodns rnlnlsrls ele rrnlplgq
ep- eIaJrJ-alsed pu13e1 g nrPour rnlnle.rls eIB aJedur gluozrn op oIarIJ 'eunricas
lllu lncEI
'upIzuISgdF9lurnls1u98oec1eos urnc 'luepuecsep rS 11c 'luapuacse P-s BaJBIIESUI
glurzerdo.r
lot pug,re 'asnde.rdns r.tnlerls rerl Ung"'lj*"U",

rnlnleJls alB BJnlplgq op eIaJrI alsed 'rrncol oloutl u1 'p8ee1 nrPeu Inlnlurls

i1i rluez.rn ep eIeJIJ'rode-jg nlpatu rnlnteJls ole grnlpl?q ep eIerII.slsed

g'3ua1-'rrncol eleun ug'c.ror.re;ut InInlBJls oIE EIBezJn ap aIaJIJ'olunuu rB rr.rn1
.Esei e BEa1JuBsIiTaE,rSsuueI ..4?zeqeudnrbicmaslf8ualpi
-nlB4s IS ?llnzo.r runc 'luepuacsE lBnlce-Je B-s JolrJ
pul^B ele aJturp^ eJBceII 'asndetdns unlBJls

reJl alBzrIBeJ rsdl nu : eldgl r.lnrpsai reun e-rnlp8al ElulzeJder B9t '3I.{
'alncsounc eJelr?su! ep apolaru n.r1ud

elec "Jlurp eJBcIJo es-npulzlrln 'a1a a.4u1.a1u8a1 11 lod rr.rnlBsai all;n1u.t15 ler
snpa.r 1!ode.r nc leuo8erp un nes sdr.r un 'a.rel r-rnzec u!
'gzufd u.rn1p8e1 else a1dr11nru lflrluJls u1 ag.rnlgsai rulued ?luclput eln1p8a1

Capitolul

v

tesituri

cu desene reliefate

lle.ctirratia rrnor sortimt:uto rir: !esirturi solicitri oblinelea tlt'cfccte nrai
pLortullate tlc lt'giiiuri, (iRre,.A ituplime un lspcct clractelislic protlusului.
"[esiturilc dc accst 1ip au, pe supraiala 1or, porfiuni relicfate, cu scoptrl cle a

imita tricotu.itli: sau de a produce desene cu cliferi te motive reliefate. speci-

fice pir:hclurilor, ripsurilor p,entru mobilA etc.

1. Legdturi struc

lesiturilc sLIuc prezintir, pe suprafa{a lor'. dungi r.elicfatc, ahcrnintl ctr
ci'cslirturi prtlalclc. Dupi dircclia flcestor dungi,
se deosebesc : lcgituri stnrc

longituclinalc. {ransl-ersale. ohlicr: qi crr figuri.

1.1. Stroe longituilinal

Fig. liTl lepleziutii u11 slrLlL crr clungi longitutiinalc, itr tarc un glup tl,'
f irc clclrar gritriztt'rualiiirrg( rIil-u4ra)plinczaigi.i la hiitiitura urrniitoarc,
patlri {ire pcste birt:itura ,/ : de palr'ri fire dc rirzealri

irceste Cu grupul urmirtol

(.1-ti ), legalca sr lealizlazii inlcL-. ;i urrurnt, : cltr lclgii la birtiitura J i:Lr
liinzri. jal la bitritura 2 leagi deasupra I lezultii, astfel. flotriri
lcgiit.ula alter-

rralir-e alc bii tiitru'ii pe srrb grupe dc fire ale urzelii.

Modul tlt: {ornrtrLe a dungilor si creslil.ulilor rczulti din secliunca f.irclor'

de batriiurar l- l. irrrdc crestitturile apat pe linia scliintl.ralii flotirii tle batri-
tulii. ciltrl. rlc la ilotlrcir iungir srr 1t't'r'e hgiitrrra p'lrrz:i si ittr-et's (iritre {irtrlc

tle rir:zcalir ,1 -'5 " 8-9 etc.).
Pli:r s,rlririrlrrrlr.:r fiotalii intrc aceleapi file di' rirzcalir. tie-a lungul lcsii-
turii. elc sirr!- grupntc ;ri l'i11 icatc, forurinil dungile ln rclieJ' . Drrngilc se rnai
pot forrrra 1i in ltlLil rrrniiitor: tlouii siiu rnai muitc firc de biitaturir allttrrat-c
lioteazri irrtr'-o lror'Iirr]le pe dtrIg-<11fu1. iar in portirrirca urlntitoare, leagri t:tr
iegritula scrtt'l;i" asat'rirll cs{t intlicat in fig.372" urrde t'ite doua bltaturi
aliitplrlr'{iotr,azir pt, srrlr opt firc rle ulzcalil. iar in portiunea urttritloilre leagti

_l\t

tL6

urJd IE Olunlrreccu II rod olrrnltlsrr3 'Qg-t'ttr:lB'dts6c-p0i2)lJa'tltJ-7.rotu)n Ba.rtszIItcJ
e.ruredas

eP EIBazJn eP cJrJ lezrlrln ne-s 'r8unp cJlrrrp rlJnl?Jso.rt rloJlculPe llJtrued
: t lt Z BlnlrlBq aP role.Ir; teunricas ?tucrpur
alse Zlt'8rJ u1 'rleez.rn op rrII llrop errr1 rrrrr lrrls a.rn.rndos ap ela.u-.1
ell€loleo

'ar uolrf:p rIs ap

c,rr; nc r6 o1u8; .r1uurpn113uo1 rBrrnp lrll irn.rls q.rn1q;i.r'y ZLt: 'frtl

'o1u8a oleurpntr8uol 18urrp nc ouls prn1pFa.1 116 '31.{

,

f.-{'.l:+r<i!y-'

..uaiild8u'anrpr;E'(eiauplen.prrourllereldunp.!nr8loppBrr)euJrBzr€JuEulddr eIssp.r?enz1luupoo8nael1suaenceonu..relu?liJarzBdoJBd1cdo_aauspge'a9p131Ju.roanI11ogJelIsrJeurcBc,'aarrarpuuz.lrpluleldllelus n.rl
ep

eJIt pnop EzuaruJn erry ldo ap duE un pdnp '€euetuasu eg 'Qzuld p.rn1pBa1 nc

Pentru ca dungile legtrturilor struc s[ fie Ei mai reliefate, in unele fes6'
turi se atilizeazl fire de urzealii de umpluturn. Fig. 373 reprezintl o sec{i'

une intr-o astfel de tesdtura, la care firele de umpluturl sint mai groase decit

celelalte, pentru ca dungile si rezulte mai evident, iar pentru adincirea crest6-
turilor, intre dungi s-au intercalat cite doud fire de separare.

ln {ig. 373, firele de urzeala reprezentate prin patrdtele pline sint fire de
urzeald fundamentala; firele de urzeala 3.6, 9, 76, 79. 22, 29, 36 etc. sint
fire de umpluturd, iar firele 72-73,25-26,32-33 etc. sint fire de separar,e,

In ce privcate lalimea dungilor, ele pot fi egale (fig. 371. 3?2) ii neegale

(fig. 373).
Navadirea este similarri lesdturilor simple, insi atunci cind se utilizeaza

fire de urzeala de separare trebuie ca acestea sI fie ntrr'ftdite in ilele din {a1e
(fi1. 372 Ei 373), deoarece aceste fire iqi schimba frecvent pozilia.

La tragerea in spatd, firele de umpluturl trebuie s:i fie acoperil,e ; dacd,
in restul {esiturii, s-au tras in spatE cite doud fire intr-o cdsufi, acolo unde
sint fire dc umpluturd se vor trage qi acestea in aceeaqi cdsu{fi (fig.373).

1,2, Struc transversal

Pentm acest tip de fesaturi, dungile se formeazd in ldlimea fesdturii 1i
fi egale sau neegale.
pot

Strucurile transversale se realizeaza desenindu-se negativul unui struc
longitudinal. rotit cu 90'. Astfel, o partc din firele de urzeah au {lotar:i lrrugi
pe dosul tesiiturii, iar o parte leagi de-. cu bitftura. Irig. li7il reprczint:i rrn

struc transversal.

13. Struc oblic (coril rliagonal)

Aceasta leg[turd se formeaza dupd principiul strucu.rilor longi{.trdirrale. t'rr
deosebirea cti stmctur:ile nu sint in direclia urzelii, ci sinl- ilrclinate urai nrult
sau mai pufin, dupir curn flotdrile lungi sint deplasatc ntai rrrull .au rnai prr[irr

una fafi de cealaltii, spre dreapta sau spre stinga.

Fig. 375 Ei 376 reprezint{ dou6 strucuri oblice.

1.4. Shuc cu figuri

Dupa modelul strucurilor oblice, se pot forma ;i strucuri irr zig-zirg- 5iur rr

zig-zag progresiv. insir aceste legituri sirrt rar rrtilizate. Stlrrr,ul irr zig-zaf st.

poate forma dintr-un struc oblic. luild ca axi un fir de rrrzealii 5i rlt'scrrirrrl

simetric legf,tura in dreapta axei.
Fig. 377 replezintd un slruc in zig-zag nuutit r:nlrinn. l)acii strrrr:rrl olrlit.

se deseneazir simetric si bidirectional. sr: oblirre o {igurri trr foi:ura rlc rrrt.tla-
lion. Strucurile cu figuri se formeazi, in majoritatea cazrrlilor. din nonrbinarea
strucului longitudinal cu strucul transversal (fig. 3TB). O {csltririi retrlizatir
cu aceasttr legdturi va prezenta. carouri Si anume: caroul inferior. din stirrga,
se va forma dintr-o dungi longitudinali. deoarece sl.rucul este cle urzeall. iar
caroul din dreapta. dintr-o dungi transr-r'rsali. stnrr:uI Iiind rlc biitiiturir.

278

I =:=i-
:-m 1: i
-l ni., 5 *

J';

..

T

\l

CJT

o

Ru

ft

tr

o{\

F
&
o;

;o'q
o
G

Motive variate se mai pot obline fornrindu-se figura cu o legdturl struc,
iar fondul, cu o alte legdturd, cum este indicat in fig. 379.

Legiturile struc sint recomandabile in cazul {esdturilor cu indici superiori
de soliditate, rezistenti la intemperii gi eforturi la frecare, din care cauzd sint

lig. 377 Leg6turd struc in zig-zag (tarnina). !ig. 3?B l,egtrturd struc cu {iguri
in carouri.

liig.379. Legittrri struc cir Iiguri lrig. 380. Lcgf,tura unui rips pelrtru mobilS

unif ortn'

rrtilizate pentru haine de sport, iar strucurile din fire de burnbac subpiri, p€lrtru
stofe de rochii. Strucurile groase sint, de obicei, sc6moqate pe revcrsul gesf,-

turii. Firele tr'ebuie si fie puternic rdsucite, pentru a asigrrra lesriturii rezis-

tenla necesard.

Jesirturilc slruc se produc, de obicei. cu fala in jos, i11 -sr:opul solicitirii
minirne a rrrze]ii la for:marea rostlrlui.

280

IBZ

-JSrroJ rr1 '(JFunp nJl{red Eleoz.rri) .rsuorF tlluazJn a[] aIeJrI eJtp{,I Joa ele 'Jo[
Inpuu ei i qie;c.rdns e1 ,:srndruI lJ .ro,r (pfiea1 ortsc qns ed) esuo;r8 gJnl9lpq
'Bocru ep I snpel elso oJelnpuo op Ia ppur8 'rt1ez.rn
ep cle"rrl e ecru.relnd rrtrn
-rsuol ljlrrotug"('c1e g'L'g'r'6'f) eseor8 ellJnlplgq qns ed 1o1 elsed g8eal

'(ejrprcn.ro) a.reFel ep EIEaz.m Elrlunu 'Pleuorsual elu;lelnd rS earfqns eleezrn

: JoJllnr.ril Inltr ilI 1€LIJOI ne-s ?JnlESAi plseace firp otrI"rnl!?lse;rc ts elr8ttnq

'EIBazJn lIrP Jlulurot

r.rnlrl rr:r qlrtioitr rr:1urd sdtr rnutr u.rnlpii,r'1 IBll il.,l

ZI

'(eilPro

--IrnrBrn-lrrllcE€')IldEp:)qlZrecplrerpnprrolo.rpresalgusiedaounl rp(yqaB'fnarISlcunrrnrFcSuJnBng.rlspIcSnl)ppqeIale:louAeopiaerzsupruerel(uelnJacncuraur(uo.lrurueeersl1nzeddranerpSlaa'piaeqlu.esrrlalpyedreer)rIlie.EracosJdnrlouSp.arrpd.(raua'FuriaiJr.lrnudolrFdJaolEnlredqol

arer rlJltlad 'p11qoru nrluad sdu untEsai reun u.rn1pFe1 g1urza.rde.r OBt "8lJ

'Fiaq1 Bc alrralrp 'lrni lgflluqaqzrn?naopprrBnlBnesJpenzrolrplna.-resaceu
u! 1 gleuorsuel qels r$
tru1s 'zec lsaau IS ?uII ols? aun oJB? ?snpar aiaurJ nc alsa glleleec .rer '91eu
-orsual cru.relnd
uru.rol lod es ep8unq 'raJJnlulqlplsaoJrclezumr.rd,Penloepludu_aese'JyBazrlralrrlnu1--rEunp
: ur.rd
'.ro1 rfey etl ;91urza.rd 'cn.rtrs elFnlpsef r$ eo 'g1rqoru n.rltred sdr.r ep.rn1gsal,

FIIqouI rutuad sdp Fnlpsaf, '7

cinli, in aceastd por{iune, tesdtura va fi reliefatl qi va prezenta o dungi pe

toata ldlimea ei. Dupa aceasti dungi, urmoaz6 o crestdturi, care se formeaza
prin legarea {irelor de urzeala puternic tensionate (cruciulile) peste bit[turile

subliri (3, 6,9 etc.), pe oare le apasl in jos. Iar prin faptul ce batatura sub-
gire leaga peste firele de urzeald pentru dungi, qi ele vor fi trase in jos, for-
mind o crestirturii pe intreaga lilime a {esiturii, dupfi care urmeazl iaraqi
o dungi.

l"ig 382' t'"ut"i:i,#,'lt,i:tl,rT;:,i rnol;il' cu riguri

Urzeala gr'oa-sii lcagi corrtinuu peste doui betdturi; de aceea, dungile vor
{i egale ;i. deci" tesirtura nu va prezerita figuri. O astfel de fesatura se nu-

rneqte lesrilu rd ri.Jts unitornfi, ytetfiru ruobila.
f)acd, irrsir. urzcala qroasri lcagir, in unele por{iuni. peste un numdr redus,

rifaiaprtscinciunalJtepigloeu,rrfili)uepn-seetneatnruunnmnduocrbnuilidrrr,z,crncaaalaiinrngarfolicga.sdae3Bbfldlo,ttreiintauzcrdiagreproesas-sateeu, se obline o lesdturd

rcalizat figuri relie-
mai multe batdturi

(petralele pline).
La ih'eapta legitrrii sint irrdicate. in secfiunt', firele de urzeala 1 gi 2.
Proporfia dintrc {irelr, de urzcalf, subliri 9i groase este de I : l. Nivd-
dilea s-a fiicrrt:r-qt{r:I" int:it urzeala energic tensionatl sI fie nlvdditri in ilele

din fatri.
In lc'gitr-rra din Iig..3ttl. figurilc s-au fortnat prin flotnri inegale ale
rrrzelii de finele redrrsd. deasupla hltaturii. Acestea sint, deci, legd,turi rips

cu tigl)ua.criir.ileilsutri,zehali.tciiitiun,ralesqtirtoua,rsi.i penlru mobild.
floteaza. irr aceeaqi
legiitura, peste un nurnir
variabil t'le fire dc urzcali, curn estr: cazul legaturii din fig. 382. se oblin
le.gdturi rips ur Jigari de bdtdturd in. lesdturi pentru mobild,. [n cazul acesta,
bAtatura iorurcaz:i figurile; de acc,ca se ritilizcazl o bflteturd dintr-un material

rnai bun.
Se pot folma, insri, figuri in aceeaqi tesIturl, utilizind ambele sisteme
dc f;iircfirAeileasdtfeelb, ainllutnnerilegprooars{eiu. ni. vor flota pe deasupra atit firele de urzeald.

cit

282

8BA

'3lo alqouolnu ;JzJuIJoll lJlJ(lsurl;l'lllol,rJ'JltllP.)s lt.tlrr'rtt

o1;rlu1 eJ eluzrlrln lugs'eaJlurnuep IB tjJlprlr ruu;t'91rc1oru nrlrtatl e1r.rnsrlr11
'aseo.rF ]u!:^ !.rn]|rlrlr[ Jl) .][.)r ret'r.rtitltts ]tl!s l-:Ill.rz-lI1

i)p {}laJr} eJeJ€oap 'elem.roJap r.rnFr; 'ucscp rrr 'lnrrrfqo r1 .rt:-s '(':r1a 0l : t}I
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'.)lrl:if"9:11'!:li

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' (c1u1uozr.ro +irrrurl) 1,ro1 ;r

Jp rrrlrlrlq rnop ?zeoru.rn '(aur1d eleig.rlpd) espor3 rerl ri airlnrrn.ro) r.rriqns
IJnlElBq -ra.r1 r3dnp : JolrJnltrlEq uallnl-qoicns llle;)rPllr 01s.) il.lrlill nliurls tt1

'qrnlfl!q rp rl tr) stlt.r ttrtttt u.rtt1r1,; r'1 'fjlltl tl,l
!lri]?.r!r Jp lltl] 'tleruJoJ rrnErl nl Fllqoru n;tuld

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lrJeJrp 'recrqo
oP Blelsece eIB aJEorJ
-adns r.rg1o11 ur.rd'r.rn8ry trEruro1 nu-s oJBc nr'(rZ'te'gf 'gf 'B'2) na{a ap
prnelpq o rS lezrFln B-s 'lBuEA reur laadse un rrJnlEsai eurudurr u nrluad.rer
'gsnpa.r afarnJ ep rml?rcq r$ (aur1d oleipJl?d) El?ezrn urp elBIuJoJ 1u3s t.rnEr;
oleu0'Plrqour n.rlued'r.rnlgsai ad r.rn8rl nc sdrJ rrn glurza.rder ggg'3rg

3. fesituri tricou
rstaaenpo{oebAr;teicungeleasal,elsed.pe{Ae.eecss-tturafeleutmuli,pdsle-uail,gefiionsdremacptaiozotrutellsefocgfer:mrdstuedarntauuinrmidlomiirnreaadfiiugmsb.iulme3ltBiecli4utmu, rduotnid.nuduieitri",.lrodAilrofs,pcp"rue."cp"ttaru"it*clro,d,ueflritr";re'icjslo.udube

,g& 3

I

4

?

Fig. 384 Legdturri pentru Iiig. 385. Leg5turtr pcn- It'ig. 386. Legaturtr pentru
o Iesltlrrtr lricou Irr rlungi tru o l€sEturd tricou cu o lestrturi tricou cu dungi

longitudinale_ dungi transvcrsalt. longituclinale.

pafiDfcfcutoliiporgarireerniezzmraicrefteilelole*lee,aiuaPsaa,blalatdradudeirzcirtdeu.neuaineatlud-icanigvnlpue,.caeuteidsirlalcllacteize.um-dr,geob;eanaadieai,atp':slaoltcltr,qtaiceoufud{niielarri4rgetin-nnu.li,epnl-s.r.smdrr5fvidf-luetrl3e_eioort,itzn8iuurnarsun4nmsgcsrBtjiluae.i.,ltitt.-xiruram-eDt(itadrd9l({era";iu.iti.nd.i,gpugrpi_paegeir.1ddarliiot.tlzsiller3aeaaneoacl8-,l,-f_rthldr5iissefmrisgies")mieio.nepce:epbs'tfasda-i6aafuIeIieooto,ntu'pt.rpricre-brrumrrlco.ioogagrnieAiiizftevntt!aiauueciaracultzeetsiductrlaradisaneirnn:tattivdsceaulaaee,trsrrlaleei;.;tceid;*rd"u,sa.raaertr;.zsatitzr.iaDp,upat-reueil;^sgna;rcr;itc;siirLrrI,4sar'"vrrradrie-;i.-bneLt;poerusuporaiclaoiittlrl"rratelirafc.r{ezooifnei"usiirusssgetlv.itactpii.teltrrilduse,a;rrrerrsrt)starioaiua,ltirenasbniliie;ul*tnlgai;vup,rt;itorrisareceieaer..
ld'erignad,tlOruernrsriirgciteiur.trirlciaeongsuseitvmufeorirdrisinuartbalrelirec,irord'uroleilricrnurudr_rz--dooeual.nlcaoggiis9{airo0ru-r'na.bigersitgtucirad.uitiinrluudarb.liellee-as-tsedt[lf"ioe"o.l"1a, rtre{-"ir?gt.ir.-aa-.3nas8ifo6pr'moreta{poin;r"trrn;-;uanga; i
btisunduriptio,dc_pCrtoi'dorzrieac,ircsfsei.ieti ii.ot;nuiAutlciiernleezlfielerasnarseielodiaa{,lourirlneeictst,rsedu_ad,aets2iunceb_ri,iiiiann;c1itterfimasiegtic.pfciira3l,iezBpl,c?ecld)a.l4uciuan-igsasi,leeaBl.ut.e.-"tirg,lin*z,.ei-]raioizizoa'p-^Iooniz'i'.lrti,eee,siticfdtiu.ri,rreeaclcoalcrriaeuulbrie!zioaretugald6_ii
osaauresLia;ai..fsifciolhlmiinranrrb-eoeanptlreoagzsititiiutalerirlol-e''rgct.erlt"leuicroii',iue,prseioenatvrruae,u"ursrn.r"e"l-eri..giietc.arir,"iale"cpol"goriiui4in"udnuegni{elierreeslehcurscuazrllti-eerlltreei.

284

984

-o.'rJ..UuJlr.rrrlilJll!r:l.sttiliior)lJ'i.ti;o)nI1J;l)rl..rur,-rtiii.n1lrulqol[?-]l.sr1.aJr1riol11a1;1):,t:irz:r\s^ii,,l.r.Ut:1)iIllrorf.e]ll-.)rritoi1i;trdni;st-rc3rorljispgi.]molrr1tu.q!)r1u'gJrrc.[l1r;siilo,c.iiut!l)tsrloJilJlJi')iJ]tlll3ar1!i;in:i)t,i:.1)lin.rte1oi'3ll.'rt)r1lliJuiJjlJrPl(J(lrlerPlJ!]unlazIllfut)I-IStlB]colclrTnrJJluSqau^0!
q.rr,..,,,,.r,,,f1eaz.rir cp ]JOle nc e.IIJ !I1oP cp lldn.Ioq () ltlnp'gc rl.rlttocl'noltJl

![uJz.nr !Jn':qiurnlsrqolfqnJIs noJI.tl I.rnl '(r.rnu.rr:.1) r.tnFr; nl rlocIJl pJnl
'9sci o n.rlurd q.tn1pBa1 I6i :ll.,l -rj5Ji r) il.rlll.,d p.lrrlq3r'1 06t 'i!.1

rp lr.Uo'ri.rnlpsei rI!'rrnpord aluod as I6t'tl1 urp urnlp8el nc'1c11sy'ay8
-unp trriqo os rJBc ur.rd lrnlE8ol op lsu.rluoJ un Js-nprllru.roJ'arunuu rS oldurrs
r.rnlU5el .loun BaJuzrllln urr{-I rS r.rn}Esai u! crnPo.rd lod es nocrJ} cp elscJ'C
'iJnoJac u! noJr.rl qnlqFal o {lrtlzJ.rdal 06t 'r*l} |
r1:) utlt{'un3r1 elr.ri}}Ip o1r:sta.,lstrur} lFunp
cluurpnlrFuol .roIIffullI) rlcJsurqrtoc
Isi i)}nltliqo IJ fod

-'aocl JolqnorliuSaudnpp.tnn1Jq8nao1Jlr'6|8g!.Ir'ltsl1lr,s,I 'q.rn1rr1durn .,p J-rrJ 'alus.rcrsuull rHunp
ri' JIuurpnlrHu0[ rl3urrp
ilJ iloJr.rl p.rnlqsJi o n.rl
llJ ll0:)I.r1 !.rtrlgsJl o il,rj -rr,rri q.rnlqldcl 'IBFI 31.{

.u;rl q.rn1r..r)i.r.1'tlBF:'31.,1

nocrJl rrnlp8al nc clrrnlfsei uJ'6Bt'8rJ u1 rPrA es utnl'tri_tlutlclll allrellp rlc
ocrl{o r8unp rs um.roJ tocl as 'aies.raasrru.rl rs cleurpnlr8uol el8unp FFUII ed
'(alcund) q.rnlnldrun eP Eluazrn aP
eJrJ trBzrlrln nB-s apun'BBt'FII ulp rlJnlgEoI InzBc u! lBpacoJd.u-s IeJlsY^'lFnr
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es e n;luad 16 InuI IJBdP trs clr8rrllp Po n.llllad'luJlrnuord

ridicata, pentru ca, la finis,are, se nu se impisleascx, deci s[ nu se estompeze
tl dungile gi crestf,turile, adica efectul caracteristic de tricou.
I Daci dungile sint longitudinale ) nraeala trebuie sa fie de f ine{e mai
redusi. iar dacA dungile sint transversale, raportul de finele al sistemelor de
I fire estc invers ; in felul acesta. dungile yor fi mai pronuntate.
I

4. lesituri pichet

fi cufseusteltu(rIiilge. pichet prezint6, pe fa[d, adincituri qi ridicdluri, ca ;i cunr ar
392).
Efect de pichet se poate obline in lesdturile sintple, in lesrlturile sclni'
duble de urzealir gi in {esaturile duble.
u-rrnIitnorle: scdatuurirlezesaimli,plsee, aceste adincituri Ei ridicdturi formeazi in modul
se bateture, firc mai
iau {ire fine gi subliri, iar
ca
9i cu compactitate rcdusi. Se alege o legiturii, in care bitiitura aro
groase lungi deasupra, iar urzeala
scurte, astfel incit punctele leaga deasupra numai unele fruncte sar cl]
flotiri
de legarc ale urzelii si forrneze r'aLouri sau
floffiri

romburi agezate pe virf . Fig. 393, a, b Et c reprezintA leglturi corespunziitoare
pentru astfel de picheturi. Cum rezulti din figura" birtdlura floteazii lung pe
deasupra. iar urzeala leaga numai in unele puncle, deasullra. IJrzeala fiind
puternic tcnsionatd, scoate in relief batitura, care. fiind groasir. r-a forma
ridicaturi ir.r tc-qirturi, iar in punctele de legare luate ale urzclii sr: r'or forrna

adincituri ; astfel, tesltura va prezenta efectul caracteristic legiturii pichet.
Pentm oblin,'rea accstui aspect sint indicate tliagonalele in z,ig-z.ag. rliage'.
nalele incnrcisate si ozoarelc compuse. Ia care, pe fala tesiturii . prerlomini\

b:i Iitura.

Pentr-u ca figurile sii aparir sir.netrice in tesiiturii. rirzeala;i biitritura tre-

buie si aibir ar:eeagi desime, deg i au grosirni dif crite. Ef ectrt dc pichct in

lesrituri se pot obline, insa, gi din irnaginatie, ca in fig.3921. in care adinci tu.
rile se vor forma acolo undc firele leagd cu legitura pinzf, (clLrciulile). l'c:siitu-

rile pichct sc scimoseazi, cle obicei, pe dos.
Perrtru lesrifitrile.semiduble de ulzeuld se utilizcazir un fir special. irl
scopul obginerii efectului de pichet. Agaclar, o astfel de tesatult va avca : (l

urzealii fundtmen(alri putin intins:i. o urzel]:igl)ieontrbua pit'het. energic tcnsioratd

tittirir rnai groasii si ctr

compaclitatc redusi.
!:ig. 395 reprezinti o astfe]
dc legri tura, in care f irul de ur-
zealii pentm piclrel forrneazi a-
dincitrrrile (pirlrritelc pline). Acest

{ir este urr fir special. sprc tleo-

sebire dc firele fundarnentalc (cru-
ciulile) gi sa numegte fir tle ur-

zeairi peutru pichet. Legatura s-a

format luindu-se, ca rnodel, mo-

tivul M ; un punct din motiv a'
ral-f, cA firele de urzealit p€ntru

Fig. 392. Jestrturi pichet pichet leagi peste dou[ bAtaturi,

286

I

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i

LqZ 'nldulrs leqcrd un nrl

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-illdrrn ep ltJrUr.il?q o rS UIBI
-naurBpunl g.rnlElIg o 'laqcrd

ruluad FIeazJn o 'plulueurcpun;

FIPezJn o'orunuu rS l.rn1q1gq
gnop r* rlezJn Fnop nB ltalsacu

! a7tqaTt.oa rtn1aqcrd rS cserunu

rBru cs alqnp altrnpqc!d

"!?Iaaz"tn apt

-lllEcl o IS IIozJn alqrtp t.,nlaqcrd csaurnu as EJnl
,rz.)uosop as ps fnop nc elrJnlaqrld'p.rnlps;rj trr g.rudu !s cilrqc,lt
trpuuluoceJ es 'leqcrd p.rn1g8a1 o €uosap es E ap oJBr ln^rlonr
alrrmul

'ralads elolurp

g8u11 arJ nu BS loqcrd n.rlued IurI llcrrJ'1ay;su axRJ as glnds u1 eereFurl rnr
'EIBazJn ep rrn]ns Enop pzrlrln JoA ag
'rJndroc Bnop u! accl es BaJTpEABN

'n1dur1s laqctd n.tluad unlg8a.I 'g6t 3lC

'alrJnlrrulpB ez?ruJoI a,s Es ornqall

o'nnolrua.pcl4lecrsrrr'rnglqaIlzodcIunauBaacrnuIolpBudrlJal'uoelzBs!1lraO-srrrcsiielJr€'Btuorllandzuuquoua!JucldIdrr'-Fedr'J'9plnan.unrutqnnrti1tcl1lupp9reqd8qBadel1auE.rpEeodnIznoBFrs'perltulaczaceJa'pIrnlJq:eoaperIupEe'fE8JPzosBaEIul'JeaplI'Jlp-uquItBJ.^I!roInTBrIpIl*g'uaIose:srverlziul'tv1lqqlueanna;qasluescpresereddIpn('1SuEnl$enOz-4BJJsgualofsap'lEluodBIuogIBJz!)lnlareelnq?fasclBzp,orJrdqZpl]l

turi. Propor!ia intrc urzeala lundamerrtaln $biitcaotaurpaenfutrnlrdapmichenettaelestge iacperoaupdee

intotdeauna de 2 : I ; la fel este 5i intre

urnplutura.

Bdtatura de umpluturii trebuie si aibi o grosime mare; pentru aceasta,
in loc de batatura simpla se utilizeaza o batdturt duhle. Prin atilizarea a doui

Itig. 396. LegEtuI:i pcntru o {estrturir pichct cu doui ulzcli
brrtlturi, numit pichet ycritabii.
qi doLrir

urzeli Ei a doui batrituli se oblin, in fesdturi, cele mai fmmoasc figriri, de-
oarece acestea apar reliefate, iar arlinciturile se disting mai bine clecit in lesi-

turile pichet simple qi semiduble de urzeala.

Fig 396, a, reprezintii o lcgiturir pentru pichet veritabil. la carc s-au

rrtiiizat riloua urzeli Fi douri brit:itur'i. cu proporlia, intre urzcala fnndamentali'i

288

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'(tluoSnldq;r op ri l.rn1 nlrlurrr rl illr.n-l1ll1tj([
it).fl:s)it{l)lUotTillrlluni:lrlrrlrl^l)rrrnlr}rJlr'rlnlulro4zltJriJn'.;rrucrcuipInouc.crrllre1elJ.erore.Iclr1.crItnnrlrl5r1trootJ1lSr-or'or^plll.rrrroprOrrri.olIei.o.)lr[lnsi1,r)rti^lI1tr(Fn[rali1rr.tzon:reu.1lJnrulucrnlis)sosuJ;Jrrt?.ilr][]rrr.i;lrr)-sncq:.ihl---lrrr!or..lr()lirlst
i:).rlir)t..)lltsltlll)tzi)ulJoltpIJoIlrrroJI.Irc(dsececps.rlr'tlrlirrlnrulJcusrscclnslzr-nunlrgprlsu;'lrruej icj rr'q.arrorlmrIrcrsup,urrr.1)nlott1.trl.rntr3ln.5rIl.rpnrl1oFurocrr^!1r-rJlrlcllrz)rlSpzL;oerrr.llnlrrlor'q..isrJecxlopsusoocpsssu!---,1
rrrlrrlr'r:orrorrrosr,r op'lllttr.roJ 1r-s c.rpll'rl'96{:'5r1 u1 u,r'B.lrr;ilI[trnl l)'t|r{p|.rn.\trll!olrur(rl
.rls,rrl li rfic1 l.l 1;rrllrcI n.rlrrecI tIr?.)z.In'lljrrnrrorcl rurrr r$ 1cr1.rrcI cp 1.)aJo trn rl)
.rr tl ol) Frdols rr1 'ele.ro1oc lerlcrcT n.rlrrctl JJtJ t^tzBJzrllln os l)lrrr lilzcr. rrI

i li]];i:;r,:;) r,,' olsc 'rcru

JS.).n?.) rr1 '1rr1c1r.rc,t

rr.rnirl l-rl-{113.11,; ul'I[
IrnotIilrt'{''lr[rcilor*drrrrrrprt!l,Jl,rPluo"r,Iir;lipr;nluli]c.r,F'le]u.s'oi-ur1r,p,,rTrrrr'tn;nir"jlr:rrl.u'):sr,r'irot.'tjo"r.iilt:l,gli-';isu,,lrjurji.;"rrnz;lllq.]urqlo;].Tr;r1s.r
'l:.rn1ri1llrtr .r;r

lrJ;) rs: !l1r:lrrJr.ril?l)rrn] e.lnlL:ltq c.r]rr1 rS'1a1 rr1 i 1:6 op '1er1:rrtl rr.rlrr.rd ullroz.nr ri

l)1,11{r'rr o ltstlr.l rlt: !t:siitrrlri sirrI rrtt:r':itt:c tlottii sultrri tlc ttlzcalit;i irttttttt,:
irrrrr! pr,.ntlrr rrrzcui,r Irlr,lirrt;t'rrtitlir" L'llrl irr Ii I'rirral l)tt[{'rrli(],;i irrrrrl l}('rttt'tl
rrlztrril l)('nllll orrrlrrlalr'. ciu'(' \'it li rrrai l)lrtin Irinitt. l'r'ltIt'rr itlt 5t(' !r'.irlrrl'i
sjnt irrrlir,'utc Lcgtilulir Iiuzir. la rrrzeitla l)(rlltlLr ondrrliili, itl la rrt'zcitla Irrrrrlit-
tritrrlrrl:r" 1r'giitrrt'rL Iirrzii" r'r't'P sau ittlils t"ig. ii1)i. tt.lt. c;i r1 r'r'Ir'czirrta lcgatrrr:i

C irrr:rliittrli in lrrngirrrr'.

liig ;i9i. Llgirirrri plrtittr (r'si-ttttti pl

1rr11[1'11 [csittut'i Ilisltltl, I ot'tttitltr rltlltit It'ot t'rltlttl r .rlttts tttiti srli. I t'2,'rr ltr l'tttl(lir-
irilrrlrtlit r'sl{r rr'[]r'('z{'rrtrttii Ir'irt Iirllirlclr' Plitrr', iirl rrt'z,rllrr l)('nllu orrrlrrlur'r'.

l,r'i rr r,r'rrtirrl i tr'.

5r'rrtlizlirzir rloriti r:orl,ttt'i,lt ilc, ilrr'llcttlt'u l oblirrc tlrl t'osI r'ttr:rtt" ilrtlc
lirrr:lurrlzti'iirrlri!lr'P1rr,irrrrlrllr,r',1o,r'lrctglrrritllrlrtl'rsLr'ssiitLrtlccitgzrioisiirnrreIaaIrIr'il(citlyol'loat'lrt'elotrlrclosrprttttitrl)z.c'[l'ir.'it g,'r','ir
() irltrr rrrrrtorlli pcntrrr lortrtarcrr tcsirtut'ii |rIi-s111; ost(: c('it irrrlieirtlr in

lig. :il)li. irl r,irrr' se rrtilizcazii rlouii urz('li si rlrtLrii lri,titLrf i si iurulrr' : i,

ulzr.ulir l Lrrrrlrrrrrlrrtir lir (l)ilt.rrilelc lriinc), o rrrzoilli pcutr'rr ou,lrLlulc (r'r'rrcirrlil,').
o lrirlir lrrlir lrrrrlir nrlrt[ulii citt'c" rlc olricci" e.tc dc lrrrntl,ac si o Irirtirlrrrii llrrllrr
orr,!rrllrfc. rruririIii si lrrltir luli (:r'('l). r'. dirr Iirrii slrrr nliliils{:. (irr Ioi'siun(.rllt'(,.

I r'zcirlrL lrLnrlurrrr'rrlaLi (prLtlirIt'Lr plilc) ieagil cu Jriitittur'l {tttt,litrlcrrtirlit

lrr lcgtitrrlri ltirzir, r','zultind. asllr'.1, tlungi uetctle irr lt'sir tulii. insir urrrlc rrrzt'irllr
lrlrrlir nrt'rriirlt .r' rrrllrrciscitzr lu lrrtitlrtt'ilrr lt'r'lr, t('5iitull ln l'i lclill'llii.

rlr,r,ritlr.r.rt lrai;rlull ('t'(:l) so scrrt'tcazii pr: tlostrl {r-':irttrrii.
Ir'zclll purtrrr orrtlrriir r,'(t'r'trcir.Llitc) [cagri;.ttit r,rr .iriitlIrrra Irrrrrlitrttlrrlirlrr.
cii si r'rr lrir iiltrrll t'r'cp. il llgirtrrrl;rinzl . l)coru'rcc ('l cstc, irrsri, lrli prrlirr

rrrlirrsir si ltrLg;r It'i'r:rcrrl r.l:rualtriirtttirrl{'rirlr:(irtl,'o-lrqccS\'tocl'1l'lor;l.tlt;tt ortrlnlriri. l'r'olrollia irrl.r'r:
liirt;rlrrlir lrrrrrlirrrrt:rrIlla ;i
!.

21r0

167,

r,,r,,,,,,1{T.,,(r !,,,r.,r,,,. ,r,},.,.,,.,.}l;J:;i],';,i;,1"1,':,,lil;;"',li],]i;,jtll,illilli,,')\rrrr:1rr
'li[l([out Jl] ,)J()li rr,lluirrl ri
rlrtrrlrl rt.tlrtod olurrrrF.)L).t(lrtrr lll o]llztltlll Ju!s r.turqtJ n) olusr[lI rrlr.rrrltrslt.i

rr 'p.1ru.ro.; ''r;,rr.rr.r.r:r .To\ i'r)lsl.r,r,r.,o,,l,)r',.rr1,,.fr':Jr irl"i fii:):liulr';r,i)';uln.'l,pr-nlr'iJ,yr].rl.ir'r.lllll:f'li(,l,lr.;l)' l],':,].,'j

111r.r 's.rusrrrrJ uT 'z : e i)p r)1.).u.1

iou)r.it.lrttost!tTt.orI1l.rrt.Ir1o'z1'.r;.r:llr1loqr scccplil.'t)o1 [sr)ri-tlcrf]lleuls.lrruoreJrlrip)nu:rn.p)1uu.).nr:)rJ1r1il^^5r.rnJrr1l)r1l1J!1lfrr(,r[)rzlr;orru.rlrrtrcrSl.rr.pl6llu^g?op[rz?-..')n3zr.rngro'ci)locl]l.!r,i]c)'[rJi.F.rrn.J1rnqi)l".lr-lrlou(ii[
rlurroerl rtr'as-rrl)rrrzrlrln'rrnFr; nu iilusrltl r.Irrlus,ri,psrrr -urrr.ro; ]ocl oe
'I: I of 1sc tlc.rc op uoo rS glulriourcl)uirJ r:.lrr]12l!([ ,].llul r:ri.torlo.t.[ 'r]t:.1.)rl.).t

t.rnfir; utr.roJ ro,t'1aytrsu'rS ulnpuo Jo,,\, os dc.r:t o1rlt1911q,;qnsopop crl r3rnr1
l.r!?:loTJ i).rl? uJnlqlI([ .].rn,.i rr!'uormri.rod rrr,rur,lnprroJ prr![r.ro],81'ro1eu errlrrrfJ B,\

rrztrlrl !.tn1p,3a1 nl rlattnri.rod'.ru1le*y'ro'unl r.rfloIl lu i).lr;) rrr rr.lrrurj.rorI rr1 r:.,
';rzelnprto cs trs lorl rtrl ola'rzurcl r.rrr1r.,5rr1 trr) fbuol ,)l)un o[o.r\r'(oirlrrrrrr.r,r)
pzultI I1r'.!r'nr.1rgu3tcl1turlrcc'cIJIoi ]ltrr?rpuuI'c.lne?.rrc'1tcpy-rrs.runlliqcprlfra[ r.Irurrro'prrznrlrllr.l]1rl^ol.rlr:rl1rn^rfcf.r1pni-rJr.rr1r.n'rll.tu^rrc:^(r)il
,)lcllrt
rr ontrjll tlSu;r.rlrtr orl pFeel'a,rrrI:r1cr rr.,Lpn'.,llllu.,rrnrllun.l r)[r.ltMUt[
'rlo.r;r 1.tt't1r1p{ o ri l^lIl]luorur?pun] lj.rnlljllj([ o'r.r1n,rz.rrr o o,ltrsoJJ(r lu!s L].rnlllSilI
ltlsll,t,)t lt.Ilrl;r(['r.rrr.8ry rtc olrrsrltl rtnlr]sl'i r.run tt.rrr1g3.r1 Lr.ltrrz.r.ruLr.r
'clcFl) nps r-r.rrrlllll([ ol) o[([nl)llucs ll 66{: '.""1.,1

lorl rrlrr'1n.rrr1
-.rll.tls I,ro(lP.t rlil( 'r./nat/.r07.r ti .lsJuilrtI rPur JS r.Ilrllrs,)i ilSJ.rP 'i.r,rtttOe rr;

rrnEr; no a1esl1il rrnyesefi '1'g

r'rr:.ltrt'1c!s!,rrrlor1.r3ll.),B'ir.sr-l.r,p' lrrrrzr rolrclnrrorprrr0jq,0,,'l,o,r,l,'r,rrr,r1trlir''r:sil"r:r,;ttjs:,rT1rl[."):l):,rsl;lltlloiluJJII'li."IfJl.;.).l:l:J#ll.',,[1-Tlll

'r.rn?11 rrrr pltsrld qrnt -rp olorlrnn ur 'l I icc'r p1:sr1rl
.Ljs^,)i (, n.r)uJrl lrrrlpoq.t'1 '661r
r.rn]rlJ.rotu nrr
[:rn]!ls.]i o nr;rr.rrI q.rnlpir.y'B6fi':ll,,l

orl'rtluacrF ltt o-tltJ't.r1lttt1lr 'pxsrlrI ll) ,r \r:lortr '.ro1 rr jrrlu.rrlns
lt.) llttI.Io.[ ltttT,r<,)lr.rfl1l)rtr)'r.rtr1t:s,ri
'r.n-:prplro talulttr.lTttu.rtI ill r.ltllol Jl,r11 rrl
ut'1trrr;lrrlro.trl 'r-:1.ru.r1rro;) JS.)1,).ll tr.r.l:.r
n.)rnlri.rri
rIrs 'qot1snu.) llllos n,; '1.1n101 clrltilrrru rrr 'rr.t il1gslr j qrrrr.rrlnrr ls 'n1r[ttro\i] i](J
'J.lrsrrIrT ap ttjtr.lJdo clr.rclrp rrt.rtT rS rrurfr;o lrtr[ rrtrr r]s r.rnl!r:-Jj ur r.nrlnIuo

{
I
5.2. lesituri plisate tubulare
I
I ,\t't'str,tlsiituli l)1'('zintil" pr: irrtrclgit [or- liitiltrt. niltr'(]ttt(', (titf('[)()[ il\'r'il
rliI'r.ritr- nriilirni si poL Ii lir rlistiruIii rniri lniu'(] sarr utai ruit:ii rrnt'lt' rl,' llt,'lc.
l'r'rrtLrr loltritlcl ilrt':iol lrrtc silt n{'(:esitl'o dotrri rtrzcli;i itrllrtlt('. ()

urzcull I'rrrrllnrrr,rrtaliL ;i o r.rt'ztaIii Ir'ltrrr on{lulale. ,\t:cstc ttlzc] i illr lie,:llr:

liig. ,l()0. l,r'gi'rtLrlii p( lltlr o lcsilulri plisrrtii cu ligrrli.

r tlr, rrrr sLrl ,lr, ultcitlii. rlintt'c r:ufc -.ulul l)('rtttu itt'z(titla lLtrtrlrtrttcrttllir r'sl{-)
l'r'inat lrutcr'11i1:, iitr' cel cu ulztitlii l)('tttru oudttltLr,, al'c
r) l rirllLc clir:1icii,

I'r'oport.it irrtle urzcala f urrdartrt'rrtalu ;;i cea l.]olrtru outIrtlalc csl-c I : l.
rlirr poate l'i rlc I : l" 'i : ] strr 2 : 2.
I,'orrrlrrl irr (t':l trrlii c-str l ot'nt:tt. tlc ol,iicci, clr o lcgiitrrrir pirrzir. r'ips

!i]il l)li'lilglit.lllit.,l{)t 1'r:lrltzirrtir (} [r'gittLn'ia ])elitfrr o llsittrrt'i-t 1rIi.ir{ir ttrlrrrlirlri.
I'r'oIor'1iir irrtrt rrlzcirliL lrrrrrllntt'rrtuli 1i t:r'l lrcrtlltt orrtlttltrLc t'slc rlc l- : l.
in lslrcctIircrtr.rr(cuirc,sl ttcl irirrr(liirgrr.rrrr.iri.:,r.lr'otrrlrssrc', rl'i\uittrc,'iurlr/1l "irlttictt'crriptlroittllrtt'lsctirtlsiinlilr)'r,(')r(l'i(r'srrrltl'slittslrcrtl'i;it..
in
ltsir illtllit cc:Putl li Iot'ttlrI r'utit. ilrilri rrgirrl itritintc lrirt;Ltrrt'a J.i rl irr lorrrlrrl

Ir'.irl.r-(Llliirri.rl tr','lrtrir'.ir sr,lot'lrttzl ctttit,:c lit.ii {'ir l)iilillttt'l sii llgc rtrlttiri,'tt
r!r'r{'irlil lrr.rrIr'rr orrrlrr[irlt'. trrr o lcgritrLt'it ltittz:t^ r:tun ostr: irrrlilll rn por'lirrrrcir tt.

J1)2

t66 !-rjrlsrl(l q.rnlEsJi 'E.rulnqnl q.rn1r;3r'[ 't0t'tl.I 'lt
il
'3iri o.1q rt n.tlrntI
r.ilrllls.ri lrun ttI,Ial[r|z0lr '5l jl li

TI 'tl

'l

I
'I'

\|

'

'I
J

,uJ,ru r.r uli.)sur',ro1 riulcln 'ljrrc,{lrs r^rlll] 0 'JJuoln.J O.ruJ,orJ n.rlrr.rrI |/
u!'LIolllJ olllltll tl.rlrl n.) ljzuJSoJ([ as pu!'_) l\
'u.rnl!.,:-Jj urtr.rol .rorr'u1r?lrzJrr rt:t qun;rrdutg'l).tuJ'2 eota-'tns uIp BlnlrIJuIEl
o'ruon!rciJocJdnPBols.ru]ueIrPasu16luuS-ron.1rq1:sIn3i.lI'JlJJtllJsltrlc.rros:-!nrlpsIr!uSoo'JI(e[ r,'1rtts1tor.]ru2".1rc1r1 l)
-UrrJ li.lnirlltl([ le
J.ru.,orJ gdn6 l.)
ol) c.lrJ oP rPuilru u11 qus etl ri c1 s.rd urrlJ.rl !s lI.Itrr IJJ]sB 'F Jl]ritlrp l6
ullrljor.rrr,)capilslBoulstoolcnYt c'elutrri)oIoriAltlltSllunlJsluooJclllJaJecJ,oqTulcBtctto]lJtJltunPll:rttltltIroIIeulIttJrjsq1eBpFBBUJJIJIuoII
oit)llpdur'.oI)n,l)updoslrUulIuupSllpuo,rr\zqoo.uruilfroIrrend€ll0sB?cI'EF[l]IItF.It{Ar'oB'lctuulSlrioa)lrtccoIftt?ue(.lp(}l[zJBf.tIIuBro]lE1tt,zI'trlnt-trclt.Ltrtr.rtl:gl1JSo'li.e]I,q)iouBJ.rqceJ.Itnerrozlrdrtl.stotaT5r-
rr,r,rr:i,r.r11 'urn5r; elso ucuPrcurnlJSInpclortlrzIaI!.rtIllolu.rlterugltl5'5uhe1I 1ts'o,tt1 rr.rlnacl In.IIJ c.tllJ tll
..r1 yio.rtl t.ln:|Lrsoi raun 'lut.tJ]l?ttt ]1ntrt
a1*1.-rtttotto;)i]

.rs 'rrlsu3.;t trut{ 'rlap i u.lnSrl EzeouIJoJ os cllun ln.COI u! Iutunu qSUOI u.rn$rJ
rl,r-,1,?,r7,rlu3r:!,.r)z,11iuut.orL.o)l,Jtrir,Iriir)cr].rlmrtlrl)Jr'^etrrlrs5Jrut''irtt,:r1rl.l[n^'JorFts1JrcuJi!lsouJJ.rjo.tu,1lls;rcoc"J1Jcrxll;'urgnrtz.1rrurrJ3teJusutctltiru...rrt1to1or;J.r'nrncr1s.r9tn'sluulccgicls-Sduc'oTti.ctDPtulz{?lul!r31cJuro$ecdflJluu{c'E[!ctStcur.ltrcrruL!Out'rloIru'pjcgr'lcOluelo.BdrdoIsClrorl,turulr)3sI
i1,."ij't]""i ii,,'1inr,r clJuoJ !lr.rrltttlrcsu os 'll.trlstl lr,'o1uio.rt1 11r.rn1rjs.r,i

el€Sorq ellrnlPsai '9

'lr.rnl1rr-cj [nPuol L:zl]Jttl.lr)| cJu;) rl.Iltllilllq t op !-l!(li)soJl)
i).llrolll.) o lrJ.\l: tr:t ll:ll?tlLl.t{)J illsi} cJtll ll;l l?'lilll^rlxt[ o|:'-lu'spl'lts-r'runIlqrsi]rJrllj t11 1Illtrr lrtut ri
lt.J.nllUJ.t lt \ l):- il.il1'.) 'rj.rirIrI([il) i?lrt.) o llttt.lo I ll.\ .t.t1tt1 .rttt 'rtJttl
,pi"riptrrLl'o,I,i'r-rrrpilr(cul-i 6c,,pirlr.ipr.r)al!r.rnd'rl71r^rurlou1ruqrsncr.nir.crr[rutorlTlllsnu,r!q(ir€lrp-u5Jq1!6porrrs4) Furr;u.nrrnr)1[9t'1('olrr1-lrut1tlr*ruelsutlI!]lJrlEu)VSrlur rduu)I)!
-rs,ij

,,1=.,

l'.rr:llrl)gr) tttlrtlrl ttItti)z,ttl llJ Il]tlllltt tttt'qitllLiottttll)ttllI lllll')z'ttt tto ti '''ttt1 ls'r:ttl tt!
'rriir; 1,r,,.tr?.1 lr'.tpll:,lU([ o:lso.I 1! Jl]rll)oJltrt il:-'LlllJol, ll.rttl l.lliItI JJll llllli) l)lll')

l'csritrn'a arc, rlc olricci. o Iegritrrrii liinza sarr o al tir lcgiitrrr:i lrr llotirri
scuLtr'. ill l.ilrrl l)('lr{r'u lrr'o;at lcagir r,tL flotriri ltrrrgi. rle tlcitsttltt'it ri rlr'
detlesubt, in rrcelaqi loc I astfcl apare, in lesituri, figura broqata pc {alrr 1i
pe rcvcrsul tc-qirlurii. cr.rnr rczulti din sr'lrcrna rIin fig..l02. A;adar, ilccaslii
irto;ur:e sc f acc pc arnbelc f etc ale !t'stitulii. l)acA, insa, f irul pcntrrr lir,-icat
se intoarce tot pe deasupra filcior'
de rrrzcalii, drrpi ce a legrt pe sulr
un {ir la nrarginea figurii, figrrll

va rl)irrea numai pe f af a tcsii(urii.

Inainte de a reprezenta lcgitLrrr'u

pcntm o lesirturii br:osatri, srr rlcse-
ric:rzii rnotivril (fig. 4,0,1ir\{). Dulri
aceas ta, se d csent'azii Iegii tu|a ils t.-
f el. incit iir porliunea und c -"c vrr
Iircc bro5area, intre douir lri-rtiL tuli
funrlitrncntale. -"ii se lase un spl-ritr
Iil,,'1' 1v,'1111'11 [ilrrl rlr- bt'o::rl. i tr ,r-
ceasta legiilurli se desenenzir corrtrr-

mI lrotivrrlui, aqa cum s-a proccrlrt
si pentru tcsiitrrrile larrciatc i apoi.
sc transfune rlrotivul in fig;ura t,,rn-
turttii. La loalc legtil-urile stutliatc.
in locrrl rrndc l.titdtnra leagi rlca-
supra nrzcl ii, s-a li,rsat pirtrlfel enl ;
Fig.403. Vatala de bro;rt

d
Iig..l0]. Lrgitrrli I)r'rtl lu o lcsitur';l br:o9ati.

lu t.r:siitrrrilc bro;atc, Ior,rrl rrndc ]xitirtrrr:a rlc brolat lcagii deasullrlr ltr'z('lii vrl Ii
irrriicat cu un pitrirtcl plin ({iq. 40 1,, o ;i b). Sc I t ln'ntRri ct firtLl rlr' lrrosrtt
lcge exect la tnargirrcit {igirlii. al tfel figtrla rc-iol t1rt1u5treealcgIlirg:u5ril::ii-i
s,t tlncori sc iltin'rplir ca, rlin cluzl legiitnrii, -qit rttt iitsi"t

cxlct clr in clesen. In ar:csl caz, f irul pentru broqat, dupii ctt a folnrat. t:otttttt'tLl'
nrai estc legat inca p('-qtc trn {ir rle rrlzeal:i, aga cllm se vede in fig.',l (1.1.

294

:^tla

'll.rnl!l]!l([ ilP Jlu[r.roJ T.nlcours IJ ppJl 'sop ecl rS
..,u llrJriBr rulurrl l"nrlE:ro.I g0f '31.,I
lilrj c(t rJnDolu>- nc cI,)JrlBc'r.rnFrJ n, clrT
-11l.r'aleurpnirFuol rFrlrp ru aleJrtruc'opo]

-or,r o[JJr]uJ : csoc[JSocp es o.ro1 lnlcarlsu gdn61

'( urc 1 acl r.rn1r;1qq op 002 .rerrlc luIS orrr J
elrrro1 clJlrlur u1) a.ruur ?urscp o llqlu TS orn([
-l.ll r.rniqsei .lolsrre rrnl?lqfl ilurcods olrjnt
.iourr ltJolnle rrl 'omotlzq.r ocl Jurrlc ln?s JJI?s

-]nlJ 1lI r]1lJ os r,rnlqlFrl Jolsocu ea,larE,T,

'ru[ll:

lr.r illljrqi)[ rr,r'Ii;,rrrt.10 op'r.rbi}c1 r$ (orrrltl lr1ojp.l1

u- -rrrl) r.rrlnstap otl 'rgrq:rmUl I,n[ril]lo.lolIduo..rrpnrJJnJsoul?_lr:-luq

n.rtrr,rrI n.rnlu]r_:fl

wIrl u n 1lB>- sucJr:l un 't : 11 1n;.rorh:r.r nr tllloz
t, -,,.prr'r.{rl1r,r1ir::rr(ol3irulrl1r-.rrrurn.r'ls)durzJrrgurnl f.LnStln'rSlsJuIr'tr,rzt ri.1rit-r1:,nr1
r.nrJ'fIB:luJr.riupunJ B.rnlrllEc[ cp rS g1rlcz.rrr
r[) :]uruJoJ cl so Prro] cp Inlu.rl s 'urnlllr^?q cl)
0lrur.r()J lilts i)lr.lnJo[r:^ tJ,nlc u1 'l)1o1t:lrc rorrn r.rn1136o1 r]lurzrr.rtlt.r 961r.51,,1
',)tt) ?; :Z .ruuic lllls f/: o.tlul
[ 'g:I'GiI '1 :1ep 11 cluod rrnl!]]F(l {rlsi)ru
urj.rodo.r.1 'r.rllcorus n.rlulrl BJlllqlEcl o ri pluirriirrrupunJ !.tnlLr]ljr[ o,lilultrrrr ri
r.mlElll([ rinop e p rS gluez.rn o cp erolau e:[sa 'BJo]socB seJBruJoJ nJ]ued

FrnlFlgq ep l.rnrotus nr ellrnsnld 1s elalagleJ 'I

'vIEOzJtt cP nlr-c

r-r"tnllrl!l([ i)l] c.llJ ulP eluurJOJ lilrs clr.rnrourb^ ttrn.J ?dnp'r.m1o; !11op op:ltr!s
.)[r.rll:ru 1r'[ ti c1c1c;rtu] 'urtu
rr.r1u;rtI'JrrLnttll r! rturSunl 1 o1s;rd 'r,rninltl r.tlrtod Jur 'uLiu I llrlrir 1lI.rr:rl)'c1lL,rr1lur.1louJ.r
clr"lcJrP nu uuJourb- i)lsi)JV'r.llr.]olrr>^

lu.rl:- urr 'sop od rS ;cr11] tslupoo]lr 'piu1 erI 'ttu elr.rttinlrI ri o1c1rr3 r1r:3

rfirsnld Is oIoJIleS

IA

lrrplrrlr:-;

1.1. Catifele netrde

llc(,trti l rrr'1r'rlr. lilr. l)() lollti'l slll)r'irlltlir l0r'. llil sl|irI ttrtil0t'ttt tlc trtt,r,'rrfi.
l"ig. .l{)i r'('l)rczirtii L'grtl-ulit tr nli citliltlr: trctc'dc. irt cirlc rrlzeirlrr lrr bir lirlrrrir
f rrndl rnerr lul:i lcagi cu [egittura ])inzir (cluci rr[igc). ilr
(piitlrrtclc plirrr') lcir gi crr Ilolirri lrrngi rlt'asrrpt'4. blil"ritrlr'u 11,.",.,, srrro,.lri

l''ig-. 106. T,r'qIt.rrri pentnr catifclc nclr'rlt'.

Scctittuca / r't'prrzintri clol lrIia ]xitirlnrilor / ;i 2. I)tt'ir lriitir(rrrrL Ircrrtnr
glolsri) -sc tairt in locurilc inrlitaLt'cn sirgcittil. sr! \ot' l'()l'ltr.t
srrl)('lrri (linil
sntocurile Prezentrte in secIiunca //. Astfel, tesiiturl \-t Ii a(ol{.r'itir, pr,toir t;r
ittpt'ilf{rtt. rlc stttoluri. a ltifor lungittrr: rlr'1tirrd,r rlc lutrgirnt-ll {.u ( iu.(' ir l lolll
;,,',lt';t.ltPt'ir lritliilut':l Pr'nlj'l r|ttorln'i.
l'ig. ,106, u. lt tri 1r lsrprczintii c[i I'erite legirtrrri P(fntrlr cati lclr. ncrtrlr.,
in'1ll(l Plol)ot'tiir iltt'e ]rirtiitru'a frrntl:rurcntulir si cr^ir l)entrlr srnoculi rlr: I : ii.
lir lcgitrrrilc tr qi lt.;i rJe I : 4. l:r legdlrrra c.
(ltt trratcrial pt'trtrrr {ilclr: rle ul'zealii gi penllu lriit;i(urir fuurlarnr,rrtalir st
rr{ilizcazri, rlrr 61.,1,',", 11 fi1 11c I11rrrlrirr.r'r.zi-qte1t, r;-rsrrrrit. iirr: pt,rrl.ru lrirtirtrrr':r
pcrttt'tt stnotul'i. rrn fil dc lrrlrrlrac dc r.alitrrtr'
Irturii" t'tt fible lrrrrgi. nltri pulilr (lonl.l)lct suu
rrn Iir rlr'lirtr'r pir'ptitrurtir sarr thirrr rrn fir: rl,.
niltase rta[ulitli'r stll at'tilicialir, dc rnolririt, ;rrp,
carr', in lttrr'l'ttrisln'ii. sint inlocrrilr'rtu firc sirr.

l,cti ce.

1.2. Catifele crr ilungi longitrrdinale

,\r:r's{r, r-rrtilr'll pr.r.zirrtir. l,c sul)till'rrtu lor.
tIrrngi [orruitrrrlintlc Iorrnltc rl irr snrocLri. r'rr irr
Iig. zl(1;, rrnrlr'. irr llor'!iun{,:r {r. siltt indit.atr, li-
rzcc[aclar.lcialrlirtirirrtrlirolrlitiu1'nloeti:rrrr/lr.lusrmrgorlr:rrrrsritlcc lir'r'lc rle rrr.-

fo1'1rr.,1,,,;,,-

pir t'r' f ircle rlt Jrirlirturir p(-'ntflr slno(.ll'i irrr l'risI

tiriatc lir nrijlocrrl Iloiirrii.

l'ig. l{li. Catifcl t,tr ,lurtsi lortgi- lrig. J0li. rr rr'Prr.zirrtii o lr.girlrrr:r lr('ntlit {}
r:ttilta lrr ilrrrrg,-i longil-u(linal(', cat'c s-it Ior.rnrrt
u- tutlinl le : u-<1fcl : rlouii l'it'r: rlc ttlzt'ir lii lr,irgil trr lrirtir lrrr',r
-srnocuri net:lialc : D
lAia I e. snrocrrri

296

iua'

n.rlu,r([ l].rJ 'Fzuld u.llUf13Jl nc llSral (airlnurr.r:r) BllrlrrJurBpunJ u.rnlU]p(l o.nrO
ut 'ilIlr.ri)lr?lr([ r.ltrorus n,) i]lJJrlu.J rouu u.rrrlqbll rjlurzo.rcll.r o,g1,p .Frg

'.)JlrorJaIUl Jlr.mcours nus u.lllts,)i prs.r,r-r.r,r
i)([ i)l) oll.lll.)ottli- tt.t1u.rtI l-].Ilr]lilIq o ti- oJlrot.Lldilt- oJr.rncotu-s nDS rr;n1qs.ri
r:itr.1 ,rrI i)l) i)[r.rttJottl:- n.rlttJ{l B.rnlI}li([ o 'rjlulu.lrnrpunJ f.rnlfll([ o :.runluu r>i
r,ltlf ry([ r.r.r; li rjll]Jz,trr () JJusoci)rr lu!s o[e]llll:r ,l01sJce ucJuor.rqu] nJ]rraJ

ele.IolBlrq rrnJours n0 oIrIllBD 'f'l

',)l,l ljll([0ru 'usuur ir[r tri.r.; rr.t1rr,rrl oJr]zlilltr Jul:- r.liltitI nc o[JI,)J1]ll3
qzrlld frnlBbrl
il! liSuJl r.il1.'ou.ts ttJlucd tJo li :}lc'p1E1uJuuPtrtr.1 u.rrrlflF([ 111u'ac.r.ruouP
'tt t.rllJotus t^t.nt;'1to;atr putJI uu r:.) ottltulJ trrnlqsei luls.).r.ul'.r1r.tn.;ottts
fzrJur.roJ ns 'u.rJrt3; urrtl ! ljrIl]Jz.tn i)p olo.rJ .rlscr{ r^rzuo}olJ (ourltl u1ajr.,.r1r-rtI)
r,rni)ours rr.rluacl lr.rllllilr.?([ 'runrj.rod olsrr)a uI 'J.)JJr:o.)p 'Q') rc-tt IJn]E]]([
Iii))up[!).sril]cuIoJc.rlrsJroI otr.u"g;)(J/()rll)r6trtZn-t-'rt.,r'nt tf?i1IBl;?cIulz?JronzJ.culrpalllroll)r[c:c,aIrltJ.a).uerrnJ1lUtal.!tt1ttl;ri1st1triri'r1'.rr1o(ldnLr.tlrtttur:z,.(rrul.)rtdlr.uia.rto6-tt0l t1tr,'tiorl.1r'uIurtul,!t(o[l

r.uro.nr.) rlr lu!r- 'lJllrt10 o1t '.rJu.r 'r.tttitj ,)lr,lirJ rl) 'tr.rnlqsiri
r:il.1r:.rdtts.rrl'fzrottt.rttJ.)[r.ll.)otu5'[).)].)tr l)tt().1 tltl,rt['.r1.r.;llu] olsc;)u url

!.In8rI no elrJ!1lD 't;'J

'JlJ Ulr(lorU
,rl, .)Jols 'l.rn1r^rrl 'lrptorlo"rt; or.nrltrr' rr.r;ttlr.l ,)luzllrltl ltl!s Iull tul| .)lllJr.t(ltl.l
,)1.)[,)Jrlu')'i)lumnilLr.l([ur1 n.rluail c]uzrll]n 1tr1s lS cu(ltutl([ oP o.llJ tttp oteartlo
i)ll'.)ll;)t.I([uJ ]ttts'".tJttpJoo'6 Oltutlltl'olurrrprrlriiuol rSttnp ll;) i)[JlJJr]lrJ

't.trr$t1 u: qe: riurrPn.r'el€8aou r-t.t1q[r:ral lIu.8llJllli*.r'l D [i0l 'tl.,I
D.,.lrlI.) o n.rlrtrtl q.ttl1q.r.t'I'601'tl.,l :'111t1t.t

'(g'tl01r'St1) .rltrii;xrtr rrrrs
(r'g9t) l1u.i.r r1 1orI e1.r 'r.rrrcr)trs ,rr;uirdso.r
o.) rrl 'q tr.rrrnri
-.r()rl .,01? .iitJ rt1 lru 'r r.r n1q"-c j 'to"un1r .r()lD-l:)n u.rrtnilgrrl elSa rr.rcl
a,ro1 rit;.r;rr rrr
,r1rln.1; 1rr1s ti ,).il]-lOIl. Isu.)JOll ;ttSttttJ rtt r."'ttrrlr uru.roJ t.ro irll
nu r.rn,lottls^ n.rluatl i)l].rlllBll([ .)lB(J].r,]J.lllo,)([
'9 I."
-o;J 1rt.ro1[rttr rrI liJuxi) llrfl .to.\ os t!t'.rl!ullclor[z,).llrr,lrnelPf'lr'-'1l')(.[ll.'.lrl..rr.ul;ttIttLtrlr.l-ltll.l'rtttt.tltrt;l
r:troblrrP r.ut.)ottrs
'4,:
y.rrr1!Sl1 tl-.r;trt 'g1tl;u:)tIIlPllnJ lr.tlllLrlLf(l ll.) tl:ut lltt J.t 't.lll,totlts tl.ll
-1r;rrl tr,rrt 1t-:1rrr1 il.r Lrlu,)'t.ilt .)l) i).ilJ i)suF- i)l1lr .rt1 '!rzrr!rI I.rrr11:.ic1 tIl r.illJorus tt,rlulrr.l