Marchis, A - Structura si proiectarea tesaturilor

Foarte multe crepuri yariate pot fi obfinute prin amestecwe qi rotire.
Se iau doud legaturi cu raport egal, de exemplu, o qi b din fig. 253. care se
amestec5, clesenind o dat6 o bdt[turi din legdtura rr, apoi alta din legitura b,
pind cind se termind toate firele de batituri. Astfel se obline crepul i. Rotind
acest crep cu 180",, se obpine crepul d. Aceste crepuri un raport
Pentru ca se ohlind un raport egal, se ataqeaza n-au, insf,, una linga egal.
sI legeturile aita,

oblinindu-se, astfel, crepul cu raport egal de 616 ttig.253, so., dreapti;.
lsdB_ien0d,"Toeqso,eitdnsopeeuraiazn[,it,amiagdeerintaodzdliienaglabdlte,ucuremanaaaaid.,isnLuoeasgibnsddtetetuaprt(uao{ritdgafs.o;;rt2fmea5lpa3oo,lbiej,oglidsnai,utnutsrrbtiin,scgedreaodp)u.eaisnebnfaeeatalzutaul ruriorImtitardtpoocriu:,
Se poate proceda 9i astfel : din legiturile a 9i b, cite doua b[tn-
de jos in se iau, rotegte cu lB0" qi apoi
turi, repetind-1apgrygl sus de doud ori: se
se ataqeaza (f,ig. 253, jos, dreapta).
Legiturile crep au o
de rndtase artificial5,_de mbuamrebianctreEbiulianfaleresitIuarlielesf,dtuerillienadedrinndtfairsepnieapttuf,rnaalAt.,
Pentru fesdturile, din lina cardat[ nu sint potrivite,
sint piuate, iar la piuat dispare aspectul de crep. deoarece aceste llseturi

I.egdtStrirndt unele lesdturi cu denumirea de crep, deEi nu au legdturd crep. ci o
sau rips, dar care sint lucrite din
pinzr lire c., i torsiutr,e mare.

Aceste fesituri, care se oblin astfel, sint crepuri false, deoarece au aspectul
granulos.

Crepurile false se pot obfine astfel:
1. Prin apret.urd, in_trebuinlind operafiunea nurnita
,c.cerledpeonjoasj''.eslete-
situra^ este trecutd prin calandru intre cloui valluri, din care

cald gi are gravat pe suprafala lui efect de crep, iar ,eel de sus este dintr-un
material elastic.
In
2. felul acesta se obline efect de crep oare, insii, nu este durabii. cu tor-

Prin torsiunea firelor, intrebuin{indu-se fire crep
siune mare, de la I 800-2 400 torsiuni pe metru. Din cauza torsiunii prea
mari, firele se incre{esc.

Crepurile false sint oblinute prin folosirea firelor intens torsionate :

lagi sens de torsiune;
intrebuinfind in urzeale fire obiEnuite, iar la bdtdturn un f ir crt.p Z,
alternind cu umrl S;
intrebuinlind atit in urzealA, cit qi in beteturt fite crep. vt tir Z.
alternind cu unul S.

les[tura foloseEte doua feluri tle {ire obiqnuite. din care unul sie scur.
teazl mai mult in timpul finisdrii gi, astfel, lesatura se ya crepona. De regula.
se iau doud fire de un fel qi doui de altfel. Penru reriqila creponaiului.
tura va avea fire dese. lese-

33; Dcgitnrile fagure

lor, rlseidesicfdodtrutmurireleiaEzciiuaddaincintercs-oitteucrloei mgcdbatinufaarigreauurdeealesfpldoeetc[tmricieeltrlruenl.agAri.c;perilsestzeceurnrittd.eiincadi.t{upirreei ls5ouirpadrdaeifnaucfrai--
turi

zeal6 9i de batdtura. ca cifrele de urzeald 7, 2 apoi 8,9 qi -10, cum
In fig. 254,a se obseryd apoi 7, B, Prin
9, 70, 7I floteazd pe deasupra.
qi firele de batetura f, 2,3,

t98

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I
luls nes ?zeasrcrucu! es eJBa elap.rud epu,
'a.rn8uJ e11mreEa1 arlua+e nc puU Jasqg

'ernEu; g.rnrrEeT 'gg3 'EI.{

'elstorleJ

ruur 1u!s allJnlgcrpF '1e;lsu 'r$ p1cu.r;uoc es ale eceJuoap 'a1u19ds IJ roa alrJnl
-esei Eaep'gfuapr,re ul l1nur luur rS sal ala1nla)'(elrncs lr9roll; rJntrculpu urp
.rer rJnlEcrplJ urp elBruro; 1u1s rurE'{eu
tstrrJoI a JoIaTnIec 1nprnl u1 'r8un1 1.rm,o1y) IoJrsY 'alunlrculpB BzsaruJol lmcs
rorgc elu 'a1n1ac 'Frnlqsei 'gzuaul.rol es
pFeel e.ruc aIerII r?r 'e1rm1pcrpr.r Pu$rrJoJ 'giuepr,le u1 l1nul rsru ser a1a 'ulseecr

'a.rnEuy prnlpEe'I '?gU 'EIJ

a

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'

I'ig-.255, o;i b-reprezinla legaluri fagule combinate tlin trei legnturi qi
efect cle urzeali, diagonal cu efect cle batitgr[ Eiiegttura
allume diagonal cu

pinzA.

pgsoraoalsuporLcia.,epgcbeudrogvtubeirorhitaleuadrleaifa,tdegceuudrvveeaebrrsdtauin,irethi asignliati.rtteseJtsorduufepeinubldsaaeetieelr,aoeicntochp.li,eei sripaaaelrtiunointnrrieiula{ee{esdddmeetoehbriiu.diimlrfe,oebfdasileaac,rtluepinr.eilien, tppr,*"rrrpittr.rno*,,.

3.4. Legiturile aiur

irr Jesaturile clr aceste legaturi prczinta, pe suprafa{a lor', giurel,: 9i rirrituri
latime sau atit ldlirne, din care cauzil
lrrngime slrr in in lungimc, cit 9i in

se aseamiina mult cu gazeurile ; perrtru accasta se gi nurncs c itttitotii de Et-
zeuri. Aceste ralituri si giurcle se produc printr-o legaturri specifica ;i
in spatd adecvata. tragere

Fig. 256 reprezinti o leg5lurd ajur fornrata din {ire de urzeala c, flotari
leagd scurt (cruciuligc;. Ef ecte
lungi (puncte negre) 9i f ire care asemir'ii.

satoenatarfaegcogenaizsaets,utprfcirlool.rdiunsceciniotd,bilonintarpptrroicnploiefuaraeptfiuinrlterceacfuifrireleelelgea{riaeclcf,saiucreruai rtgetir,u"ulpael..igTi"u.uru"gn.srur.,ul,ldtraninslepcaaagrtAea
.sd producii separaiea glupclor. Prin aprc,pierea firelor dintr-o cdsuta, se for-
dm-rrepairzPiceern:astmr-iatuuaritoriabnslinhienrnrgsiPurialtut!dersifairmteulareiii,ldaietaeruir!nzcesluaitnluigrduailny{taer-suaanyteugariria,usp,pi",elp"crtu{oil,.,".rdl,e"osgezatzilaeaus.sitfuerla.-

Fig.256. Legdturi ajur l'ig. 257. Logiturri a jrrr

sau, chiar, rnai rnulte ciisule goale qi, apoi, se trag in spatri {irele ur.upului

urmator. Aceasta se obline in fig. 257, unde cisulele goale sint r.eprezentate
prin sAgeli verticale.

Pentru a obline aceste rarituri 9i in latul fesaturii, se proccdeaza astfel.
incit, dup:i leoapgoirliirunoepolezsiluiete), (de obicei, un raport
.de urzeala sE se lase o p*1ioo. de betatura sau unde firele

ingustii {6rd bltat*ri, care
se reprezintd cu sigeli orizontale (ftg. 257). Daca, in dreptul sfge1ii verticale.

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'Eleds uI €araEerl * ,
: q.rn8r} nrlued rr] nc rnfe ?rnlq8el '696 'FId

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ilrtriird rr} nc rnf u J.rn1PS31 Iaun BiIqoS BSZ Be-rilF?Jl '.rnf u ep.rnlgsei e1

ri'l-rlir.ror-q,.rol 11u1s tsrorF EJntrElErt

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ne-s nrr co{ 'Erlrc o else
I eleo8
lcep

importal[i, al]urn(: rrncle se iri'oduce laritula in iungirnea lesaltrrii, va fi urr

dinte al spatei.
lesituriL' a.jrtr s'irrt fuitrel;uinfatt pentru rochii. perdeie, cdlniQi tle vard,

de sport etc.. {olosiltl, in special. lire din bumbao merc€rizat, rnatase natu-

rale. miitase artificialn" lina pieptirnati 9i firele sintetice 100% sau in amestec.

3.5. Legiturile famtezie

Unele lesaturi, ca tle ert'rrrplu cele ltentni rnobild, pentru decorrrri, pet'-
dele, imbracaminte penl-ru fenrei etc., trebuie se aibi un aspecf cit mai variat,
cimaraegpinoaaltiee,fidedautnldeesdptiudriclonlunforilroesainldorodleegledstudr.ft,uroi afraenctaerzeie, .cu figuri creale din

Aces tc lesii turi se ltot l'olrr:a priu dif erite metode :
.- prin complt'tarea unor pitritele. In fig. 261. intr-un fond de nps, s-au
complotat pdtri{elelc. obfininclu-se o legdturi oare conferd tesAturii un aspect

granulos (Iig. 360) :

sirnu-ltanparirdrespuupnrictutear(t |idgc.21-6ru2nc)t.t:,Lian atelaqi fo1d, san adaugare gi suprimare
obflnut gi leg6tura din
fel s-a fig.263,
r-lenumita legd,turd cu gratii. dupa aspectul ei;
prin desenarea
dreap-ta, a contururilor pe un fond cu legdturi diagonale, avind sens spre
a doud figuri, cale s-au completat tot cu acelaEi dia"
gonal, astfel ca sensul diagonalului din figurd si fie contrar celui din fond,
iar unde se irnbina fondul cu figura, firele sa lege il opozitrie, pentru a se
mdisottiinv-gseasufeigcuihariailureno-rlaepgdofeltrutfroeang.daAlc(sfeiasgut. 26q;
neegal, in care se deseneazii o figurd, un

desen se considerl sectorul I, apoi desenul
se reproduc'e simetric in sectoarele II. [II fi IY.

Fig. 260. Legfltur[ fantezie Fig. 261. Legtrturl
202
tartezie denumittr
(legtrturE griunte).

907, 'arzeluEJ prnl?3aT ru6'E1,il
'srzoluB! prnlE8e.J 'g92 'FId

IIB uI JBr 'sns I QgZ 'FrJ) elrlue.rp uI IS 11c e8u11s BI tlte nus ,so[ u! icol
ug 'e1dea"rp e1 u'e18r'cr1o1lsuBnI-Juluerseapcea;perluuondri.reosderJc?reur'a.r,orrr;rne,utee1r1ecsnnl:dr e'spogf sud! nBS
snu^
-

',11tu.rF nc p.rntpSof' arzeluDJ qrnlpEal 'Z9Z 'EII

ElJurnuep erzolueJ

pln1p8e1 'tg7 'Et.q

cos'.?OnlougJZrca'oEsptJ)( )sfrn"n0slBpII3Benrulc n€s .06 nc

€c 'E.rnEr;

ap runrf.rod

rcrul Ec 1n1du1 ur.rd 'uro;run uas
-ep rnun iea.radnncreg;4llulog JulIeJudas-op B-s
I11 Iruolc"e9s6u! 'l' u! lBu
I'grunoolpcaus
-esap B-s ac pdnp uJnErJ

: -uee'g9lJseGIBurEg':uoIo'tprsZcI1naedsXrpeoeulr.g:$r!)fpeeg1)so.ar,VJnoci8JZelzrE/1uo1c1dZoarEo.l:rpInI'gel8lInJgrpl;szoBJ\gdo'5ellenll.nJrfutouerr.lurpreeaunrazrBrazB-tsarufneu€JeJp€.sIec.urpFn.nr1nn9o1S8p9er31;eog1lcneeloetsp.prae'Jl€iBcuIrn'.lpntl(q-Ivnsoz€Jal-elups;llgps--g(ly,rzo.dEugw:zr,

.!oc s-e pin lolubiuarea metotlelor expuse, una cu alta ; de exemplu, intr-un
legriturd, rotcste
adaugi puncte sau se suprima puncte de in alt loc se
n porliunt-' sarr r:hiar se deplaseazl I
prin trranjarea {igurilor pe un {ond determinat, colrfonn unui
tir'" 11:11. In fig.2(r9. fondul e-qttr o legiituri cliagonal, iar ,.rno-
jarr: a figrrrilor - 1rn allas ; lnotivul l{ de aran-

Irig. 966. Legittrri fantczie. Fig. 268. Leg[tur.tr fantezic.

Fig. 207. Legilurd fanlczic l-ig. 269. Legturi {irntezic

gorta-] 1-,r'i n nietoda-ilrdircrttir indicatir irr fig. 270. unde, intr-o legirtula (dia-
incrlr{ri"*at ir,ttrl"tit) s-au l:isat spalii goale. care apoi s-a, cor'pletai cu
o figtrrrr (prrnclr'):
-s-illpl roinhtipnruoet riacdse:uitlrrdrielerncrnlinrit in
,.meloda suprapuncrii patr'u pozitii", prin
b qi c.
care fig. 271 ,

204

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sariu.i.].bleegasica-maetupsdartierid-sceoe,srneicagnuti,nmliae'crgreeoitzulstu-ruaaltulaodddr-eiiignsniensnfatiaigridgt.aao2,t,i7tscr-ia,unasruca,ripzoisoebralcitnlui6firln,addcueIj-t,sB9ea/ip8uio.nnipsbur-naaactp'ddteoteulnesre[di,tneipaltrteo;g;.t;ap,ior;"e.".

pus de patnr ori, rotit de fiecare datd spre dreapta cu 9b..

3.6. lesitrrri eu dungi obfinrute din iliferite legdturi

rctdi:atere*cr.or,i-ufP.icrgriudluienuranifcc.ogeorDlemmloaubganniintggelaijitllreuii€mnda{ioenaara,cmeld9easoi,ttuenmddedeuosgiadar_g,uacilpeort.nomraaatbnci ifnsomivaloeureerlgusatoanalrdmleeel,eagligdai *uilntilmunerlegrteigoiaas,oleebllo.erpricg"oeait,ltiup-fcerrioardrpio.uoucltre"ifiqinri""gidf,eaifislueli,"-
Teoretic, se pot combina una cu alta orice legetulre;
intrebuinfate. trebuie. insd, s6 se
cunoascd- dacd in practici pot fi
taplaaienuatti.g.llrbataaaiazissctAUeFaceuuodze,citrlirneuleigaozialne"gdi9l',us.ociarr2dcmDlszuua17oieeccnneir3slaiondgecuelppce-aaogrxeraoremdersn[reipdnetm.eeburaniaepfcingrtmidzliaeraaufiiieiu,pnc,rbpdezteltfJeudiidoilr"eoneleujiogns1lz6dlecefeeiteel.usesdislgdnecrgagi,aaneeetuivr_dlleioesud_lotrebcurnruisudgnurzaaecrdoaietoinuefutlmcai{meuadgeaolzrgpiuapa.tmloraeszrlr2tobept-iteguampiiinlnzdiritlnaeaizuloac(at[tgurrAsi.dufit6ifimrc^rendt.ipeuEusluiualnreuerlliiaatt,,ilsrzuzid-lms.efeoareer,iarps'rzarude*etseet6!reu"e:zgsei,szeeua,f€oedairrtcaerb,zulseezoidsertp,dileeaaeu6.qdrlranveiepd.9ecelicaeen,ici,'ztz,bfal,6iu)asna.reidEtzs6rletaeeiostaruaiguelmsatni;6.e--
-legA,Ptuorrdliupninezad. formatd din legat'ia atlal va fi mai reliefata decir cea ea

iDadatSutesiltranrta1f;sqec4FI(nfsano2efqutsilrrozve-ecqasaov,i.inapo7alldceeir)ude_.gafiaagcodiascamrtrtu€meaaacr,atsseiritc,lunaucimqnrlupotedaor,g-iftd.redllemoiLstucuetaindicrttuderlrmecaid-pge,lueauainlntttncuilitqaprugrutslaeiu-letslgidee"neboissc't.miapurteutrfou.dilrrgitartiiup.bairdvn2ailaez2tcnet3erliu,inlnmmordtadrriea'atpd,eoioopmimrriro,"teaaur"ulciiliut"lri.d""nn.preeu"obabladifdlrtrc"ttae"tueattupudl"erirei"i"gdrrbdd"lee*"itisutgc"atrieit*i.
ilmtcneuetga_reletdiertcIFcrdu,aiaauorilrilauulfptedslloiuginndltpeizaettergudsrerd,riipoatncasrueurccrqtlmieuioi,tomraiadttrreeodbeeu:iifncasie.patrrleeutliedr,'zgiddcdad;eiutgis,unlpooo_rdbnaifrpii.iar,gcreslleudi.t(iols',nn2aa9mu7grui4meiara,peisittipe.lsarefguaosonibmrbutim$rislarr,reare.rstd.veDridednraen"etcccufdadie.to,"scrau-at,ac)eiaco.ersosiftpdoluitoreei=lsenut"ffiit.nnirrc"rJudgael,eerouaenrcms1,eutei.dsa"ui"ti,mieng.-'l^tebefriri-grn"u"erai.ni,-,
care se incruciEeaz[ mai des qi se scurteazt mult
buinleazd un sul de urzeald mai decit celelalte. se intre-
separat.
Tot in lig. 274 se observi cd. sub primul raport al legnturii <Iiagonal,
celmesigfatredei t.mumrduei-enltcelciooitnorenarbito,dinrsiacet-iesfder,aerisene2pn0ecetraaa,zr.ediaArrnsatuspfumeobl,artliiuenugl ndfuitpnusieiranai-gflaroertrrglmadrasatup,iarociricfcttloeaEmli2epsgxoud.nbtceuinernatleilsdsesiaeegurdo.euentpsaaJel,ndtep['vardozioeer

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l'cntrrr a avea o itlce clarir clespre felul in care vor rpal'ea aceste duugi
irr lestitrrrii. se tleseneaz:i legatura la o scard. redu,sd saur cum se rnai spune.
se frr:e de.senu,l retlus stttt nrotiau,l. Fiecare raport al legriturii, rn desenul re-

dus, -"e rcprezintfr plintr-un pAtlirf el. ;i anurne patrirfelul plin reprezintrl un

Iig.276. l,cglturI combi- tiig l?1. LcslluuI courbinatii {olmind dungi lougitudinale

nat r-r lorrnind ilungi lon g i- neegale :

t rrdinale cgale c - legltura; b - desenul redus.

l - leg[turir; b - rcdus.

r'alorl" cu (:Ic(:t de urzeitlii, iar pAtralelttl gol, un raport r:u efer;t de bilttura.
I)easrrpra legiturii o din figurilc 276 "i sa obscrvir dcsenul redus L al
tcestor legiituri. Legirttrra tlirr Iig.276 217 f orma trl din doui rapodrte e u
este

r-'lect de nrzealil li doui rapoarlc cu efect cle lrat:ilur'i. I)escnul redus al aocstei

legdturi va avea douA rinduri de pd-

trA{ele verticale pline pi doufi r:indurj

de prrtrr'r1ele goale.
ltig. 272 reprezinta o legdtura
cll rlungi longitudinale, combinatd
din rrlmAtoarele legirturi : un diago-
nal incnrcisat. o legituri panarta,
un rliagonal incrueigat. o lcgitnra
panama 9i un diauonal mutal.

liiS. 2i3. [,rgdtrni cornbinalr: 0
formind dungi transversale.
I:'is.2i9. l,r'gituri combinatc formind rlungi
208
oblicc.

606 rolunlesl %Jslf,eroJd r$ srntJnJls - tI

erurerl 'Eleazrn ep sdr.r un nc leuo8erp 'rBsBI € 'lBnl € ep arBlolI o pulaB
un leurqtuoc E-s ZBZ.3r1 u1 .r8ung
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apun elrJncol u1 'r.rnlpFal elpur rurrr nBS Enop urp rJnoJac €urquroo es puIS

-oJd s-s rerlsy .mrn'od'r'ip a,ropa, *r"u ;r'"9';i*#|P#,,T.i;l :1";.ffi
as 'lurrtl reur lcedse rrn JolrJntrBsrai ep e nJluad
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q'D 'IBG'Fr1 14 : JolBruJn InIeJ ul lEruJoJ ne-s e1g r$
aleluaza.rdel luIS Irno.rBJ ap IaIlsY
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-psci rr1 'u[r.roJ locl os

ranlp8e1 eUrqJIp ulp lrnGrec ur rlrlrrsri .Z.t

eP aJors ls roruoJ nrluad eJols pl rizeeiurnqarl'r os ol*T ruur rEunll r.,"
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-r'qarieFl^rdl.anI'Jl.,rrloryI'rlPqleEpoFluurucrrrnupzr1en9.nr}rI1fd.irr38ePlr1.urroopJdB1rlulIrr.Zrlrr8tontu'ill8qnnloisp?I+rlIirjneacuulserleFl,ncfaB?lra'Cu.urlrorr'nqIanuut:eurlrotsloaicpJer'uraun.c1rtf.ief!+)r|81ioLli.ilrJcrlunrrlons(.xie;s;rIlrB.o1roSJlrtl,pl.rlru'stiairr.irli.iS)rl,.ri1riri;srrrlt.r.r?rsrin.'rprr?]l,ri.r.rlrrlo8l1,".utr11urnirlr1,hrip,rr.rliln'rn,'11rra1,*i1lrrrrzb1[.6"arr:Cr1i1l
atsa'Jy 'alesrensueJl ltunp Fz?arrrJotr aJEJ aleulqruoc grnlu8al ..Z.g.t

ln unelc lot'rrri, legitura se potriyesite irl aSa {el. incit un lir de ul'zcal*

sA {lnteze pcste r,irili fire de bnta'iura. De exernplu, firelc de urzeali 5. 11 . 17,

20. 26, 32 floter,za peste bitaturile 77-21 ; cleci, in aoeste locuri, crestal.rrra

ilintre carouri este intreruptd.
Pentru evitarea flotarilor lungi, acestea se intrerup, lasintlu-se cite tttr

piitrirfcl gol (reprezentat rle r:ercuri). Prin aceasta se vor distinge mai binc gi

I'ig. 2Bl. Carouri lonnate din cloua legdtuu'i diferite

caroruile, deoarece crestAlura dintre ele nu estc intreluptir. F lotarile lungi
de pe fala {esaturii au {ost intr.erupte prin aga numita raootdale (Iig.2B2\.

Racordalea este otniterea sau addugarea de puncte de legare intr-o leg[-
turii. cu scopul cle a scurta sau de a intrerupe o flotare lunga.

O alta metoda de a forma carouri, combinind diferite legaturi" este aoeca
de a forma, din citeva fire de rrzeali qi de bataturi, clungi longitudinale gi

transversale cu o amrmit:i legAturd, iar spaliul gol rdrnas intre aceste dungi
se cornpleteazd cu alta legeturi. Astfel s-au format legdturile clirr fig. 283,
cale sint foarte rlcs iltrebuinlate pentm {esdturi de mo}rili, batiste, servete,

fefe de masa.
3.8. Legituri eombinate eare formeazi diferite figuri

in feslturi se pot forma diferite figuri din negativul gi pozitivul aceleiagi

leglituri sau prin t'ornbinart'a a dorrir sau a mai mu.ltor legaturi diferite.
Din. nego.tiauL .5i pozitiwil uceleiasi legaturi. Astfel s-a {onnat legdtura

din fig. 284, unde in fond eslc un atlas de batature in cinci i1e. iar in figurd,
un atlas de urzeala in cinci i1e.

Combinincl dou.ri stru ihiu' ntui m.ulte legdtu,ri diferite. Pc fondul format
de o legdturi se deseneaza figura torluali c,u o altft leg[tuli ; apoi, in acesta.
se deseneaza o a treia legdtLrri, cum se yecle in fig. 285.

3.9. lesiturile ln earouri cu efeete mdrunte
In unelc lesatrui estrr ne(iesarit f ormarea unol carouli, folosind trceeaqi

legdturd ca in lesf,turile pentnr rnobild, fele de masd, cuv€rturi, sau, uneori.
in stofe pentru imbracaminte. Aceste carouri pot {i in formi de raze sau in
form6 de table de qah, formate prin rotalie sau prin umbrire.

3.9.1. Carouri in formd de raze. Aceste legirturi sint formate din diago-
nale sau din atlasuri intirite, carr: pornesc in patrll direcfii, clrm se vede in
2t0

.lrnlEEoJ r.rno.rBJ 'tBz

larl Ea.rBulquor urrd HlBuI,roJ grn8rJ 'gBZ 'trd

-od .reSluInu'^sJlqBlBuI8louacuInrnuulrnEpFIFncArTn.rElJr'ztJ8ou Pqur 'r.rnlEEcl Ie.Il UIP eleu.rol Irno.rBS 'ZBZ, fl\tr
-roJ FIJ

Iig. 286, unde raportul a fost irnplrlit in patru sectoare egale; ln scctoarele
inrpare s-a tlesenat rrn diagonal inclinat spre dreapta. iar in sectoarele pate s-a
de-qenat acclaEi diagonal. insA inclinat spre stinga.

lislt: irnportanI ca" acolo unde si] mA[ginesc carotrrile (sectoarale) inve.
r:inatc, srr fie contrast dr: legituri sau filele sei lege in opozilie. iar legdturile
in acest loc sd-qi schirnbe sensul. In arreastii legiiluri se ohserva ca diagona.

l'ig. 286. Carouri egale in folrnd rle razi Carorrri ncr:gale in {ormii tl,

laze.

lele pornesl rlin centrul ral)ol'tului (unclc sc inttt'taic r:eie douii axc). in lrirtrrr
directii. dind impresia de raze, cle urrrl,'si-tn plinrit
q;i rlerrrunirerr.
ln fig. 286, toate cele patru mlritttc; deci ;i larourilc
vor fi egale. lnsri se pot folrna scctoar'o au acc,'aii
gi clrouri nccgale. prin impirrtirea raPoltrrirri
in scctoare ncegalc, ca in {ig. 2[]?, irr care crr un diagorral pieziE s-au fonnat

patru carouri gi anunte in scctorul I cu raportr:/r 24112, in sectorul 2 crr rapor-
tt;J 24/24, in sectorul 3 cu raportul 12/21. iar in sectoml 4 cu raportul l2l1?..
3.9.2. Carouri in formi de tabl6 de gah. Aceste carouri se pot forrna
in mai multe moduri :

o leg- dtuSreAimppoatrrtievirtadlr.oiral-url in patrrr so('toarc" se desclcazir in sectoalclr irrrpare
acoiali legtituri, insii roi:itti
irr sectoatel() p,ar('.
cu 9ff. Fig. 2BB reprezinti astfel de calouri. formate dupd acest principiu

dintr-un rips.
O altl lnetodir de a lolnra car()lu'i iri lolrui dc
desen-a o leg{tura in sectoarele impare, apoi in 5ah cste ac('oa (lrr a
sectoarLllc pare nogativul
accs-
tei legtrturi, insii rotit cu 90', ca in fig. 289, care s-a forrrat din pozitivul
Ei negativul unei legaturi adria in qapte i{c.
din ligurile ardtate au un raport destul dc rnare. in urt,,l,,
tesat-uri,Cinarsof,u,rinleu potrivesc desencle cu carouri mari, de cxempllr Ia sto-
se fire de lniniaci.piCepintadnastetr.dePseennteruazal cleegsatetutrcislea.-
pentru haine barbeteqti din
{ele se intrebuinleaifl desene cu carouri

turi
trebuie si ser evite raporturile prea mari? iar pentru fot'tnarea lor trebuie sa

2t2

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l'iregte c:i 5i

di1 r.aportul

In figura 295 a sc constalii cri flitirrile rleasupra ale firelor.rle rrrzsalii se
in mod regulat" din tlcluri in douii fire, fonnind astfel rintlur.i rlc fler-
sut'cecl

I ie. 298. T,tlcirturii lt{ornr. fortrtalir dintr'-un diagonal inr.r.ucirirt. irr'l.tiL.

tsiclilrtsel,utd'eteasduepraas.rr-p,rrsar..ecAf ol'r{jmaaLtl o {ireclic rliagorralii. lrt.irpll rinrl tle flgt.rri
imp"ar,r, iar al ,iu;t",, ,,l,.,ri. f.,- i:l-
relc par:e, dirr firele

t,Llr'glaetigrrarrlriefi i,g(1'..)).2119s2-5r2r.;iab(r,la/tirus:gtca1tpr;rrcrszr (il.-i'rr..rr.tuarntlcucra:iIziHurel=l,oi9nr.' care, la pr.orltrsuI rliutre r.aportul
tipurilrr.
"a,'" f .,.rir,.,lzii pr.ol)r)r.ti:r

sl-ncrrfri.'g|P''rdo,2tq'9ag5sr,luiacpldaeinsrtrtrreem.ienliard.zrii.cr'leaote,clrLrarfztlauorl.teitrrinluehniugprag"ri odEepidoser1lsiriuu1bi.lttec. poate fi r,l ileritri rlc I : l.

2 , l. u,rrtc rlriuii llottiri

lriarrzrrt'lrcl:laspt-lcocritusllunn6a'3-l*i[n1ie-lolcrgci{aureri se rlclerririrrii ln atrelali rrrod. r[sci 1l : r.s FI
r.aportlI
formeazir proporlia, ,l - l,,g-ituri; ,1"

li1 : 1 I (fis. 29i). r') :

Rz : I it (f ig. 2911. d).

rppple'-eolotgnrcpfitiiliotlcrrttutlriltitllriinielIciztiuegigir\lr.trjra._JriJelu:2,9..,al9e'5.drz5r.,ir-veIr1,'i'c'er,zir:afl'nuote(l'tr)r'rprs:ot.rrtrc'rr.c'rrto,ru'lzm1Illl2rlrJanurd'r-ntc-eir.z.ni'iae.tu1inInult7tz'atial,'eteiraRdar-.leatrtolll:)aeRlrI'rora:'+1cgle)r5a:.,l5ot','.rluudla'alipiiginor(il.,lacrr.iart)afilpao.rulgrrrzerstl,iirl-rli-r1,ccf,ao|i.ifilrrtul,,.t'r,alr,.Laa,z1bptsu1riorr,li,rrt.rIr,t1e.tiittr4:rtr.iri'llioalrr.rrt\.il("ute)r/.rlrli-).roriarIri,1rz,iz,arr_e\o1pr,alr,e,$:t.ior.ui',.r_l
scflxorrtr|osrlncrlniLiatcteitiiirgl.ilrer'r.ci\tllius.artrrifilllnePeeulga,rnAtcplrettfeuronrI|tatl:llLi:tlorrles:rl..ee.isg1pairnnio:ta1rrtLnrar{n:io2lreo:l:n"l1d:ud.iilIn1:$2fi ifi(g;i'gup.r.l:p,r"s2rn-f9lo.ir5a.l.).,r*o{.riolniritrr,.if,ruiitg.l,i....,jr'.."l2ur9ar-rlsa,,,"'.tr5iprk1'rt,ui1rlr,i,.z.'ri,,lrrretpnguu1itrrlrr1t.,ioi',olp.tir.,,.s.i1t_iinae'
Cintl proportia arc mai ntult dccit loutl cifrc, rnirinea rapor[irlrLi ,rr sr:
1'roatc stabili dupa o Iegulii geltt-r'alii. Se poatc prr.ciza. in 1r'es1 rraz. r:ir. lcgii-

elB

6IZ

url) [.rrllriEJI T]JJl?rJc nJluecl EJBtrrSuo EJnlBSoI €c ]r{I?s B u!I rlr}'iBJ 0I l*
ril 0I rrr lplrlrr\a 1r':- .r.II] 0I/0I rP 1n1.rode.r r-t':t o'666'Ft; urp ernlfForl

--a.lr?soJr,..[)nurr.?Iprc,ll:]r,s.\rBarprrrBru.atgpcus1on'rplo.rIoJInclJllu,?r.rorBdpJBulllJrpnutrc'rtur1neru5oolpaoulslrs.lt.oFI?uErlIerIonodz.IJ€lntu'Bctllpu€olnnzlcr."Io'"fBluBr.n;I:lqiE:l5iql q1JI:elospJO*lSn'lploLrl-l

p,,o,ir,:'.llcorlsr.orlFrnurrprr.ar(p'['IiIlIJ.rnJllucBlJtgeJtItEt.zlz6Pe,r.nrS.rEn1dt3r3S;rl1eeeclsta,r;teloptIsui)ts'ollutlltlt.o)Flul?tlp9..lluo1tar-nq195c1

't;)uIJJ ol)'Jlullllr].)
-F.r(lrrr! rulu.rt[ .rsrr{i) nBS rJn,roJop n-r1uad '!11t1ont ep I.nr]lis'ri nJ}uo(T 'nldurerc
ap llil'oJBuI J.Iodu.I nc olouosep clIAr.Ilod Iulu:lltlS'9stt1 'tlttzBc oloun uI

'crur 1.rode'r nc aucsoll !lzBoiuln(le.rlul os
.e1urlr13.ry.rqItII nJ]uat[ aIoC €I 'rqesoapul 'ri to1r.tn19soi ua]nll.rofuul IulIIad

eil op JIru rprunu un nJ asai lod es oJ 'eretu UodeJ nJ euase( '9

.JerJ cp aldrtlnur olrrlrlsts utp clrnlqJIE 'ilsrrtlulo,) rolr.rnlgsai lrlu .t,trlacds,er
cllirrlsrJelJB Jet 'zet ]silJB tr! 'Elurza.rcl lEllnzo'I InsnPo.Id 'E.Inl9lliq nes Fleoz
-Jn Jl o.rrJ ap e;elueutrldns etuolsls gzvo'zllt+n os 'dots lnlSaJP tg'IBZIIBJJ nJtr
.uec[ .3sl?oJ3 rEur crI uS urJOJa.r AIrJnlgsoj. E,) JBSO.]rrr O]SJ rl.rnzE.) OICUn uJ

no 'alrq*crurua-r aclletse alcalo arrriqo ]oct o:^ '"r"tfri:ti':,i:tit';t--'3lrltT"ll"';
.e.l1?Jrrrs op ']ezuer.ratneqtunq cp JIIIJ A.III ts lzvxzllqn
'rourel aJrJ nBS ASElprU e1 i EleuBldord pull aP InJrf als-r 1u.ralerd inIEIJel
n.lluad aF.rnlgsei
3s
,--pBolKr-l,.,anrt.tlrt'Bru"]p.Iubl.uo1tldera,du-orrlreosap:11lsr.nern11l13po*fFlfesac.1r1enlonoJtc'lrIuBlBrarIcoedcllue[eJrr1IoeInolzrlz-ru11Jn1nlo'n1duieluuqq.or.lrg^F'cclqles,'rIcrts'ltrr}qlLoeoIalIuSs'raoouF}eIuJ'l'lr{r!1)li[u(?rleIJ$.craulBIoorl"J"lurrntr1pt]tprrlFE'erpaJd6r'IiJpqlturtr!r
.1r,rr.r1od col {r! ,a.ruFa1 op alound JOun RJ.llJtldu trr.rrl ad,n,re,r1trr

lorl os Betsrly 'r5un1 ap ler"Euxa FetoIJ Ellnze'r Lurolor t"l;3:trJrt"llr'l"trnr"

BeJeruIoI n"rltracl aJ€uI8IJo rlnlgfiel BJ alarlpul 1.ll!s IuI ell.IrlsdI"I rS alrJnstsllY
a-'frslif"eoJlice5tpru"ro,ialpe9Sl.ernruc1nop"5$lceer1ripl EIB]rl,urLeo6rffcZBeI':PJg|luJrg.n,rt'u-9't6?ia6leu'SzrerIlxJrlennlalr4qrus'r.tr''nar1lgee61uer1t1Bu:trtoeBldlltseB.rerSnc1Be1itutierrl1nqo'EeJl.tBraluu'nrlEa1rsJoodB
rrrn}F3al ollor}srr;}-cu.rec rS prcilr.rcdg
6p'"1ui""r't1yr{r luIS r1r.ro}er v,E\ll|Bo,rJc'onp'9e6q2;rn1'rf3r3\Ia1uorpgrzueJ;ojnJotnrqeo'rn.r1lpll8l ao1s
'"06 nc
".,r.,19311 op
eac nldrGxa
also eJBc ,()62 .Bg rrrp
a.I?=1"u.aInq*:1Ir*u"rlt.uurrr-rstlugrlla'rrrJlr-porenoluolnp.edlsnp.ersoaic1.l.rlsradnai1eaggls3eJc9in1dl6gnP6lsBa'F.'gI.IBrnIorI.IIlpIIgIr.IztIoIlruJudenIrLldaeIIsIlpuuo'Je1'rr{szo3-Iuelie1.rrlrlcdi_.reI'OpardqutI{sro1Jiuo.3nrelIuP'lIlinFJocealpgpoI rnu.oPrzlroluBlnr(!l3o.rtrlrlsusuntuuio'rr]llruaoBo1IolepredJle'l1tr-o:3Pp6
rnl,)r Be.tesnltltp ur.rd rS urnce,rd '11iiodo;rd ep_olueIJP^ rolclJJollp uirJtzrllln uIJd
;nt.o1a.t t.ru1ps"1 op oulpnlrllnw o BuIJoI 1od es p.rn1g3a1 o'JlurP ''rupesy
a.roOzr'-trr,pxir,o.,d*O.u,'id9:1rI,o+, i,eUs;riJ.rt+c'1T€+[u]1IlncosrIi];no.]cr]s{oucn,rFudlruoarczPrJnoJzao{PlAorI.PnIlrlrlgo'lrr?glIeJIIJnlrs'oE-rJl'l9ts.6arGouJn'ElrluJil'ccnlutn'on1l?dt.'r\u'tBlrlallrrxokatrl

=,O.:

=-

c

E

.r'

I

-

-a

-,,'7

a?

.-F

=

3.

c.l

bD

L.

tz6

reJl JIac rzuorlcJuur ;|s .glrJetpeg'tieBrur,{lryupEucdnleru8r'aseirpEBno-srrrPt IIEI^dPnro$ ';ir 1 '3 ucln.rF
ar]J 9I op a}sr
rrr'sir Atff BcInJS'air
EqquzlrreueaqrurJ.obr-dsalxnpapoB+osJJtr:ppaBBr^AuEBnIuur eaepuI3nlnd6ps0outdpuJ.5Jl IaIese,ro(trJruE.roArepJPagSa'aqpJOu-IJAlns9lrtIouendpcer^e!SUlJuall'd(rr[s:rrrissJe'tpltl.-rusrpnrp-,J)alupB!udnoOJlttlr.Il:p) sIJI!

.169 ernErl '3.IJrO r4

urrr€purrJeriulgeqBssr.nuprF.r.o\FluNoc'Zp0lEgua's3sPli pleun.rdri-:r 'arDurBloO II.qPE^Err eturrlcq 'I0g '3i.{

ar!./ 9/ = drlp!/tpu ap /r0oo8

'llcrlPri^rtr ElJdo-l os oJlJ 9I Udttp oooJBo.lP'rleazlrl i)l o.lrJ 91 3P
3rs-o 'nrlsorr l,,zpc ur 'o.rur 'rrJrp?^?u InrJod.r ;t?,illti,r:rrr;;i,"1Ti:; f,,ir,']'*,r"
]-sao.rIt{'n,Vai?deneddrriraJrcfrrtupu!lPrJoIltooj|reriE1Iu:|uU1rrSzlraJpJogdlaJadpr,nus,oraFI lsulnc!.r'qs6rnulsnnra'rrPlo;'pC: adtrllrdjr.lurtitt.t'lrr3-x{rlrll:I-rI(JSIi]T:l'JsrJpJS'rllJiu+Ila',J]etJ[lr'r]Spqt^Eu
'r'Z(i'rc'ptr)aem6a|r'lrLlro'e's6ilu''1u(3'1.c''aZl?'e(tlgO'1fit)nOr'ctag:osuei'\3r'Z.oerlnrdl'r)[oP:''eP.tpee'aataiiur'1irrgGl!pu7tZFg'[oAl)rdnurqe1ca1uarppegrllplllrdduYjneelezaea:uaurj.;nsrdrr'rppundl--ereii)l8r.J..rrrIgit!rp'fpg-alv)9u]tBsAddnr^a'qln?ceiqrut.1lrecr: esiooog.Ip'jl(lglu;7s)'z,loululutleoa:srrdepelln;nnuc..Irrru'nfE(uf3fiz;1pruur':UGcrr11'1irdIAgn--'-rIYr'g'rl68'F,r'1et.pr
ec gdnrff aJBlaIJ u! nzeeztss-rd
'i:zreirirnqa.rlul es a.IrPFAFtr g tchi.r5 '5: rt.t 1r edn.rii : oltlnlrt es a-dn.rF g

:nua-i-:ci'JunJcop3rsutrdonc.r8In.zruurt'6u!nc| a;u.r1tqrt cdn.r8 rtr olair i.redurl rS

lBzrlrln es -: Jolgru

-aa.1l.nr1ecIranx'pqo,ornou1sr9u1p1qsqp'azuu'ilrfuapF6re*eceno1uJ.1rdncroe'eqgszlseglae.r:zFluJuannlln'auol.srd!ru11e'u1lur1olptepel'urltnirruallnrlqJtlrlo.pal.lrsldpJ:rlplllrtltrul1nJ!nrA1lll.lrlfclossJdlut'coJnlslnduart^qputceunxpleql c1ras1.rgneoltlgreusooeddi
;-nlsuu?ecplnEtrerrlBuOer,-repu9!uFlu.[11'Ineudos'ea1pelru.rEea]nrcSrxe'rsBeSouurrnIJro; Pouoa.rseoopadylIinqrooqozEsJ'llan.r3ueeriraalt1ular
es BS ernqeJ] puq lnurrld u1 'e.rnrueleq uosap un lllncoxa os pu!3
FJsnorrnc 1-s 'p.ruceI urstrulett nl
'oJBurBIJ([ Bpo]etu qzeajrnnqa-r11s
loc{zll.r arI clnsei lrrls Bc urse,rdurr cuJ c.m,)'t.tuut auas^a1t eurjqo u 1IJ'!tlad,
'1t,lgV 1n1.roder nc g"rn1q3e1 o
lErrro} E-s 0Il0I 1n1.rode.r nc greur"uo u,rn395a1 rtrp'raeq:OJIJ 0{; auinuu'pJn1
-ljnnBl1l.Erdoqucl;aupu.rr.Itrnrdrlpro.trdueuru-'re-s4rSg! clgro.VrggsuEurIgu'e1-unsr1n'educlee1p'Eue1rcurac0zl'.ternfErac0prpI1sn1'1oro..rl1olede1eje.ur1r.rnr$eqalerl.rrrulguFtluunlene-us-S'lal'..?rr1tlpt'6uq6,rBg7u',s'B-Falpa!

grupe Qi s(, nrrrn('r'otea,Li itellc in fietrare grupa, apoi se rleseneazii navidirea
con{ornr srrhemei ;i anuurc : firul de urzeale / in i1a / tlin grupa A (patra-
gelul plin), {irui 2 in i1a / din grupa B (cmciulile). finrl 3 in i1a I din glupa C
(cerc). firul y' in i1l 2 dir.r grupa J?;.a.rn.d.. pirra ce se lt'rmitri r:tr loatc t:ele

16 fire de rrrzealA din raport.
I'n descrr [)clarrrare sc fonneazii supraprrnincl pestc o Iigrrlir tur fontl. deci,
teorelir'. tiesc'nul e-qte (rolnl)us din figurri si fond. Se ra at'iita Lllrn se fornreazzi

filcarc rlirr acestc rlouii elemente.

Se f or'rncazii irr tii Iigrrra. ll f ig. ji02 se oitserr-ir rrit iiclircir olitintrtii din
scherrrii. I):rlii deserrrrl at,cstci uavacliri ic rellrodLr('e rlin trort. la tlrcaPta. 1a
in:iltinrea raportrrlui legaturii. t'a in f ig. 303, d ;i apoi se t onsidcra ca dese"
nul lantultri dc r-'artele" dirr nirvitlirea 6;i dirr ilcsenrrl IanItrltri rlc t,altt'le d. se
obtirre tlesr.uul a dt' srrb rraviidire. carc eslc tlcsenuI f igurii . -{t:cst descn ,tre
raportul tl,,urzeala rlt'l(r fire. deoarece raportul de nii'r'rirlir:t'este de 16 fire,
qi rapriltul de bltritrrrir d,'16 lire. deoarcce in lanlrrl dt cartelc sint l(i cat'tele.

Desenul figurii s-a format astfel: cartcla .l are perforatia in dr:eptul
ilci / din grupa,4. deci la bdtiitura -/ (r'irreia ii c:olespund€ r:artela -l) se vor
ritlir'a toatc firelt rle rrrzcala liividite in i1a -l tlirr glupa -4 si anumc Iirul

tlc urzctla L

l't-rtrrr b;itatrila 2" carrcla 2 comandri ridir:alea i!ci 7 4;,r gru;ra -B,ru
cifrele cle rrrzeali 2.6. I0 gi J4, pentru bitetura.? c;artela,? r:ornunrla ridicarea
ilei J din grtrpa C cu firul de Lrrzeala J;.a.m.d. Dncir studietn cu atenfie
dcsenul clin Iig.303. rr. st'obserlir c:i descnrrl Iigrrrii s-a {onna1 rrrisr:ind {ie-

clrl ilir inrlir irlrral . \r intl rl,'scnrrl {igrrrii st lorrrrtazrr f onrlrrl. lstlcl tir se
niigcir dcotlnti un gnrp intreg
tsr n[tJ" dc igt'. crlnl sc obsen'ri in fig.

8li 304, a, gi anurnc se constate
€ Ji.
l4 aceea;i nayidire ca in fig. 303,
insa. in desenrrI lantulrri rlt' t'ar-
trle pcrrtrrr l)irtiitt.n'ir /, s-att ri-
tlicat toatrr ilcle rl in gnrpa B"

llentnl lrirtirtura 2 toalt' itcle rlin
grupa -ll. pertrrr bilii trrra ,J ia-

liisi toate itr'[c rlin grrrq-ra B. iar
pentru hritiiturtr .,1 1oa1c ilele din

gnr|a (i. (,tr btitirtrrra / se tcr'

rnini rtrportul legritrrrii din fond

der'i crr biiti tul'a ir sc repeti

desenul. In des,enul lantulni de
cartele, perforapiile sint r€l)re-
zcnlate pr:in lin iile orizontale.

|eserrul legaturii pentnr

{ond se poilte schimlra prin

/2J/2 77iT- d aceea cd grupele de i1e se vor

AE miqca in alta ordine. curD 6-a

liig. :l0li l ormarr.a rlr:senului {igrrlii: procedat pentrlr olrtinerca rle-

c- desenul figdeusreiin; uDl la-nlunliuviiddierecaa;rtecle.- sforilc sentlor pent,nl fond rlirr lig.
iif)1" I ei c.
r/ -

9;)')

()7-

a, L.()

.ltrnErJ t--;or)fBsrpxeaPri(lra(urpr)nutrser,u{fuareqoJz'r(>.-[PfI^fr,grse)ztzBleql'"?rE,ddlPIooBI,p1reuauJcIprpIspuoe,eaTuFe8IIzcrueBl?ulrsEuo

[nuJsJl)_ o]sJd puoJ o4r"d ,.1nr"rnp ee.rsunderd
-ns rrr.ld eJetueleq rnlnuesrp BeJBurroJ 'got '3t.{

u! 'orl.Irl ad alunue I3 90t .FrJ e sns
es ruuc gzeepec
ep Bauud uI glere

-oJd as o-e1eez.rn ap In}rod"J arlcedseJ
'g.rlpg,lg,t IruJodEJ rJEru € nJlueJ
'roleI

--efqlJB?Jprn1lnn1JI.qoroldodnuut.rr irBa.re.EnJuprrJgErau,frruueros.rpd-pEpJnoldql

,BJ rJErU BA its gC eeecu ulrcl 'g1eez

-Jn ap 1n1.rodu.r l.rpru sltarLerlsua-([

: IJUt.n .)troscp lti).rJ

;ruo.J n.rluad mlltuesJp lJJ.ruu.loJ lr0g .SlJl paupnrn.p)itUqrs.oraodI9ful"6r'gaeirt'BF'6rFlrInupcofrlleeop{psIIelIinEnaullssoseaserePBcOB9u1.tlr1sle9rd1p

'(mc*ac rS airpuon.rc

'aurlcl oleig.rlgd) g.rnFr; ru1ued .ro1e1

s-'Fanrl1dreu)cldpnlnnsuooyBs-rsaupBlucaalladsJel.dsroe(lee,BlienJurnuuFcqIII-nnu.4ausgaegdpt

e,rn1g3_e1 e'1sed puo; n.rlued e.rn1g8a1
snde.rdns u-s 'rceg .m1npuol e*n1pF
-a1 n-rlrrad ai! ap edn.r8 nc uulpturs

Ecrprr as rr.rnFrJ e.rn19lie1 n,4ued uir
9r.ran1p9Elda1e. yelouqurrdru'F,glBcrplaoeo.rpd
Bz€orlrJo] os

uI Esu[
a'6sr;ru1n4.lcn.rpqeurleo,rrJre.rpnqz8surJogrIungJuoteJs.BaeIpsI
wnc 'pgg

EzeerLrrol
u1 'a"rerue1eq e"rn1pFa1 pzBol.uJoJ es
urnr eurq reru eEalaiu! B nJluaJ

rru 1n;.iorla.r '.rpJlu'oaDutqzp)tranuqI cl.tglcI/,g.)T-<
S o-eIItBntltlS.lq.lrr(ooa)('dlltEe_?e..re.1rorpJp.otu)rlolIspnlleussorrrocnJrlS;elunr.rr.JrB;rcpuJfnt;ul-erEraJp1pxnuuourtorrF,cdurE[dn|nocrrcl..lrellnnerslntgs.EVrFoEoI/dsIil
do

y

. iTilli";():oil.e:.]Jr]lcu.rr_€ll1o,rrltBl]lJlurpoJe,Jrdl,rFnpircr;p.rrrp'rl'oEJr,pnrereesoselapspi;runooFnuJurryjsncn;srs.lrrrl,"uepqedu,_d,oj,gJ(ppcn.'.e,urY1rplun;"a.,jr!,d8r"n;r,izltrf-1llrpFn,,1qjni11fef,ar:iS111eTa:,.F:r-of,eii.uIl,n,,r.".o,*1"srraadppr.;_tllan",ih0

Cirid se tl,-'.erteaz:i aceastii rliagritrnrt. sc va giue seanra de rrrrutitoarr:ie:
cliagrama se lit tleselra astftll. ca st-i rrtt rlepasel-r'rr rti.i ttr strs. rrili
it jo-s cele 16 rintluri de llritrilcLr or'izotrttle din dreptLrl schernci, ('are corei-

puncl celor 16 fire cle urzealir clin scheni ; rlportului rlc urzeai,i.
itr lr-rlrctirl tlc ttriit'irliea clznl noslr'rr. diagrattre
rlcci -poaltiLclrfgiittdreea-qduiatcgsraarrnt.eti,heisatre'. nrii rle lriitlrr!elt in

Fig.306. liot'malea {igulii unrri rlest:n l)elarnare crr raport egal. (321?t2).

ilI{l o iungimr: rlc 32 pirtrdtele. plin faptul ce s-a cerut raport de rrrzeali de
32 file:
arbit.rar, pot si urce qi
u-rl z'rg-ztrgttrile diagr,amei se dcseneazii s6 coboare

cru numir variabil de patrftlele;
lru in-cepceliatgrruamfiamvl a.1trEeibsuei,tedremain'slei mceuneliam, sle1a6ibdfiincosncthineumitial,tetl:.rrinalcapzuutel anossa-

224

YC.O lolrJnl!:i3i f, r-r ul,1;loJ(l 1:' u,rntrrr.rl g - f I

.!j,!?rr op Bluli rilp t I.nlc'uRnUdiorclJcse.rrrEi[o)i,il)'(?ccr{cii.li.)r5Lun/dl.lr-ir}8lrlrrr?pJlnl'ltiTrifrrr!lrriI i)ls.).),r{l}
rpBAlu n,\

as ErrrE.rFErp rirp tsoInl lfc^uJnesdquor.recsl lnrulrnrorze'gJdau.dr n6.r'$r]luEralzi rJn Jl) Iun!.rr].lIif'(rlrt;urn.urc,! o) llrlp
ujr l]oli
-rl-rtu Inrrosep rl os

'g utln.r8 ulp t Iail eoulillju! t?l clso lcund lsacy'e qlraz.rlr Jp Ir.nJ f-lurzrrdat
le:gcpu^uJrnn?rrprsl8pel^rnrcEprauupru.Irrn'dpyutaatrus.rIdadnnpl"1.rnutF1rrunredstzroap'.(frrd1?tet^t.rr.JaIaoi1slrscqfcugo.a"cic1u.1rsnu:diculprmtrlunsc!o) uzetoJlinulaxlars'plpe'r.rlounJ1,riollunli^n!ldr-Fctrlrsr[Jr/{dr}pcJndV7nl.r'.Slur?t.[iu.rrun.trr,rp.tugr;uIclrpepuli.ititqrrerp1r
'EIBIIZ.Ilr oP .trI un o-l!o prIJltrJZ;t"ttir.t t:ttttr.tiilrrp rrrtr

lcrrncl a.rucafl'pmu.tFurp ulp IS ?urorlJs rrrli ettriqo os rilrolr ,c1?'!..tlrtpxIi\L'irtu1-rt1
:
1u;r
-snJo.rd B-s urnc u$u'c1af1 BzsaloJaruLrrr es rl;ir.rp odnr"o ra"Il illiJr) r.:ztrtfJJuut Js
'qnie.r8erp qns lcuxa 'rr"up1,tqu rnlrllosap InJPEI'I lllquls rl-s J,) tdnp -_
61: 'ZetlpZutr:.rarlpnl1np1..troIdr.nr^rrlrnI\.l,-:,r)r.n1?rr.IrI.rrri1te)['I; rir!rop
un +lac cs J.)o.Iroap 'y1uoz.rn. cp a.rlI
'oir
6,

'r,r;rn8rJ lnuascp ;r1sld pttol trrlrtad trtyrucs
rue.raundBrdns rrr.rd lnurfqo oruruup(I Inursr{T'i0t'.ffljl

'[uTr]l rrrp '?ir {; nc ,l ttInJE .rpI'air 6 nl g udrtrli 'oir 5: il;r 1; utln.rir' : itlfl.tuul]
.[r'19zfl?)8c 'rFrl1'llIrrPrrLr:lr)tPBrrrtlrIlli[l;.]rsl-)1l?st,t-rrllir.rrrzlror.|ir:-lIsJ.I.rlsrillpJ{'r;{r.1r )lunlnrdrrrlrc,lr urr r]Jpe;l
l{ arln.r8 ra.r1
rrr :-ctuntlg
lsalrr'nllsoir

IS a.rrJ ep A{l op prl.rode.r nJ e.rrpBnFu rlnou o crrriqo os ir.ul)rl.rliu urrrerfiurp
TS ll[r.]rlrs rrr(I 's.rc-{.[r nBs 0r In"IrJ nJ .ilrr[I.ra] or- llS 16 6 ltt.rrI nc pdealtrg

Fiml de wznala" 4 se nivfidegte in i1a 2. din grupa B (crucc), deoarecs
punctul 4 din diagramd este la indllimea ilei 2 a grupei B din schem{ qi se
continud, in modul acesta, pina s-au ndvrdit toate cele 32 fire de urzeald.
Avind desenul ndvddirii, se deseneaz[ 9i lanlul cle cartelc (calq va fi

identic cu de'senul nlvidirii), la indllimea desenului legiturii.
din ndvddire qi desenul lanlului de cartele se fortneazl figula
nulu-i Delarnare, miscincl fiecar,e i1a individual, aga curn s-a procedat dese-
fig. 303.
$i in

In fig. 305 se obserya cd desenul figurii are un raport de 32132, deoarece
raportul de nivddire este de 32 Ifue, iar lanlul de cartele are 32 cartele.
Avind desenul figurii, se alege legatura pentru fond, care se forinr:azi
migcind deodatd un grup intreg de i1e. Aceasta s-a tratat rnai inairrte. Din lege-

turile potrivite pentru fond, s-a ales legdtura a din fig. 304.

Se forrneaza desenul Delamare. Se suprapune peste desenul cartelelor pen-

tm figurd" desenul cartelelor pentru fond. In fig. 307, il desenul lanluiui de

cartele s-a suprapus peste des,enul cartelelor penil'u {igur'f, pntralele pline^ crnci

si relt nri). desenul cartelelor pentru foncl (linii orizontale). Desenui lJela-
rn&rc rrplczentat in fig.307, la prima vetlere {a,ce irnpresia cri al fi rur clesen
-iararIrlla. irlllr':t;ui sl -ade{esseuntudluoiaDr ecluam9air1ee. din fig. 307 este de 32l32, cleci un la-
j,0r'l ('gal.

2. Se poate ohline. insd, qi un desen Delamare cu raport neegal, rle
rxenrplu dc 32140.
Raportul de urzealir de 32 fire se obiine intrebuinlild o diagraini de jl2
';runcCteo,rceaspiunnzfiagio.r3c0u6.nurnirrul cartelelor rlin lanf, r'apoltui tle bitrituli ll fi
de 40 fire.
Iu fig. 306 s-a ardtat curn s-a oblinut uu raport de ndvddire rnai mar.e,
din schema Ei din diagrarna ndvdilirii. Tot la fel se obline un lanp de cartele
rnai mare, din schemd si din aqa-numita diagramd a lanlului de cartele. Pro-
cedeul este acelaqi oa la desenarea diagrarnei nllr'iidirii, Se dcsr:neazi cadlul

lanlului de cartele; el va avea 9 rinduri tle perforagii, fiindcit sint 9 i1e. apoi
40 cartele, fiindcl s-a cerut un raport de baitdtur"a cle 40 fire (fig. 30B).
Se copiazl sche,ma ndvddirii la dre,apta caclrului lanlului de cartcle ;

iar deasupra acestei scheme qi la indllimea lanlului de cartele se clesencazir t'lia'

grama lanlului de cartele linintl seama de toate principiile ar,llate ln de-
senarea diagramei nnvadirii.

S-a luat un numar de 40 de cartelc, deoarece 40 se diviile f iird rest'cu 4'

adic[ raportul de batdtura a legdturii pentru foud.
Din schema qi din diagrama lantului de cartele se obline de,senul car-
telelor (fig. 30S). Deoarece linia ile cartele este {oltnate din 40 de punctc.
lanlul de cartele va avea 40 cartele gi deoarece in schemd sint 9 i1e. lanlul

de cartele ya a'vea 9 rinduri de perforalii.
Avind desenul lanfului de oartele, se deseneazl de,asupra sforile pi la
stinga, la aceeaEi inf,l1ime, se deseneazd ndvtrdirea cu raportul de 32 de fire
(oblinuta prin procedeul cunoscut qi ardtat in fig. 306).

Din nlvEdirea cu raportul de 32 fire 9i din lanful de cartele compus din
40 de cartele, s-a obfinut desenul figurii cu raportul de 32140, deci neegal
(fig.30B).

226

tE6

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u9prctpupr.slrodcfle..c;opttrlparral1d_torlscnaur1rrai!1q.noruocuso-usprpernlsglundeeftecra-li,rr'!,a,r,.e,,;sl:r'H.nroui:llIBliuluorXrcn'nB1,ne:1a'"ruo:ldelu.,.trtu,;,l1;'n;.*f1rr"1'."rx,,1r,"1ripuHr;sii1rlupl,-!TIi,.;:

'$VlZil leSirau 1.rode.r n3 arerueloq uJs.rp mun rrrnffrl u.rruur.ro..l .80[ .Sljl

$S

s

(
*

r:ltrgp-s:lo| l rtrP sns ap 1ui1oa rr! lururJrl er:sA.r,Jr.Sruqofieoz-sEBrz0€al1,EluIIr ruur gdnp.i$ u8ugls
edecul u.rnErl Fe ,rlp Inuesop uT
a1t 1ni1o.r u1

os ')ru.r op rrrlu uasrp lseJ\r .1u'a.ru r.)rp :0tl6t "r1ir9"t:"t"#%ff"1ril.td
'a.ruurelaq Inuesap aurfqo as tp"rri8iy nrr"uoari
lelrraza.rde.r 'puoy n.rlued alelrea ep rnlniuul rnlnuesap ucala,rta..ugncd"ep.rdfnfsii'u.rrred'i'p' ,i

-ascp elsatl

l)arii esttr )le,(:('iaf sir st olrlinrr (l{rr{'n{'1i rirai tttat'i, sr l)rott('il()azE in nrodu{

rurlildtor:
Se clesertcazi.r uiividirea tlin fig. .i09" iar rrltirnul Iir' (firrrl ll2) se confi.i-
derii ca arir. apoi se reproducc rrlliiidirc:t sintctrir, Iit tilr,aPta ut'r'rtci axe. r'&-
portnl rlt niivrlrlire 'ra fi tie 62 iilt ;i auutue 32 X I -= s6t4,l)L6o'l(f-{'(le2az-ri 62, deci
;i raporluI tlt'scnrrlrri va fi dt (r2 Iirc dc urzcalii. I)atir la fr:l ;i

Fi'r. .ti09. I)csenrrl l)elarnarc cu rRllott nccgal (32i,{0) oLlirrrrt 1tlin srtprr
l)uni'rll rlescnrrlui prntrrr lond pt'str: deserrrrl {igrrrii.

e:u descnul lanlului tle r:artclc. aclir:ir se considclii rrltinta t:urlclii cu axri. apoi
se reproduce descnrrl cartelelol dcasuptt acestoi axt. Laprtr{ul rlc biiti"rtrrrit r,lr
fi dt' ?B lirc. r'cspectiv rYlo.2tr-ltli8u0ru. IilOs('.(-ilo2r - 7fi. ,'lgatl;rr. dest'nul
fig.,ti09 irt ucesl ('ilz. \'ir 40 rlittlt'-rrrt (l{)st}l) lllilr(:. iirr din

{i sr','-

toarelr: 2. S ,i 4 ror fi simelricc- considcrind cl :lxii veltilalir firul tlc ulzeirli
,'r2. iar ca x\ii orizontalir, firul de ll:ititturii ilO.
t\{ctoda se intrebtriuleazii. cu tttult succes irr !esitorii. in spccial la lirz-
lroaic penlrrr rnostre. d,'oarcce -ce l)ol {ornta frtartc'itrrllte si \-rrfiate rttostfr) irr-
1r-ttn litrtp sr'rrrt.

?28

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.BJ rrcnr.nlp.prrlrlrIt.n3crsn:;ululIgJe,'rt.FJurolil,sr?nqRl odl'xrppuycalrZclliolcrnpr'anes.r'c*uI!c?ljsEurrdirrrL1atnrrIlqrrtu'lurreoujIe..rrr,irnlriuralaln)ggtrn8luolzruaJrutl]ui1a\llo1uI.orl.r!psr.lsoiuut1;o,..rro).tl).rua.rpll{JpIplretr.lulurro,{lurr,rulrrrua1ulrJ;rsrl.ll1rrrlrf1lnfrrarrr],.l1sru3rfor.zf1),z1r{n.iurerler1,Jrrrlunrouirl1Tder.)coasl'cn1),JrerppIc:nsp{lcnIaral1goip)l.u1ror--1gll-pr:,r{trtlrr;.iirtrntrrt[dr,r!,i

i'ae?t
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attr]tulrle).ro'Jrng:nr
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'nlozJn
srrpo"rd ',11.,1
r.rolnc of trr],J lIf :ilrl

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pl{luli{[to']'(erju,tolorl ,rolr.ltlll]Bi{ ll ljii{t?rr.liijlll i)l) l.{{,{ljr.t ) u.llli!}'1.r(l'ir.}trrp,rr}
rA 91uoz.rn ItI I.Ioitr.) olr.IaJrP cp tllc.rrJ ,)l)a.)Jlt{ .ro r ,}s ulii.} Lrlt.n: ;r.ru,r .'(o;t:.royi;r
JolIlozJrl u rlcjrJru] tor,Troo.lru1ou]Lartpti.Tlrlol Jd.Teu",rr);1,r)tall.llz.l.unrlsl]lP.).rtlol)l{.)t.o)'tIiJuI}lrorurlt.ri.lrtluriirl
: ?lrreularIi, ]r\,)s.r.nr.) rr.rn111fflrq
l},).1}lJ,r,r il.rlrratf

aosll.:)r'.]tlll,lltln.il]1dit-trllslloll;?iriiro)roor,r4uP.1l.rr1(1)1'l.:)il)l.)ll-ialE:.riu\tJre.atstdu'tlI.lntso'leBJl1i-erlptdn.lstcTlttlrlllEJjenaqleSJirttlo[li]Uo,1rt)rrrll);.urr).1;ocrrrrzl-rr,.;.r)rrt.rrl'rr;lr'.Jrrr1.Lr)I.rlrrZ.!trl..rol.Jirrll.,tll)urr{iIl.;]i'r)sqr1o.)ltrroo?iirr.lrriur]rl,tr),rrrl.rl[Jrrr,snlrlrr.tcJuirlprr!Jr-?.JrIl(rlr{lr'.,,)r1yrir.lrr:irnir.trir
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FrnlPEaI !S ar€olnc ap rotralr3Je eereulqr'ul 'g

' r3uIa+ tr,t1 tr,rrT .) J llltri r.r.i l-t.{r I rtrr,}l ) Jlo, )T}.r ll ali}rui
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'alrr.r?.\ clJuoJ auesirl:l auriqo 1or{ as 'a.rrpy rqrt Iitr.r,)r lrrrg: l!rr..rrntcr1ra,l.rllrllrr10L-fzLr.i 1l{
uit oJBtu lr?ur JriJri{EllriBJ {tn auliqo es air nlt lIIslrru.}.lrrr rri) io{lzF,r 1111 31J
! lerlatls roilzn.I ln i]p oro{ari alsl llI llras;}r .ro'lsJJ}l llit.ull n.}{)}..) lr.ll irJ{[ -
--

eral n) o.r?oJFripruas:ulUo{uSasAo,plrnrr;urlA.,1O6;E,.P,.ro,l3a1s{I;rirl}rrolldz,r",r.r["J'r1l';1r,i{r.:;.'rl;Clrrl:,ll1l,;r:f#P;lr:r'tt:..r#1"1"tt"

(dsiier'an'przc,--leaeansuslseeemenaedncteowpsolnoaed'rntcraiehndtaeee{zca.all:edI.unlo,elrerzdfgpiiegdnril.e.nit.iuae3roa^udr1-rriiz0nn.e,-ac.cflglriienirg,uarapsnatu,ldydpirrcea_t:ldaiesisccileniaimitassparrtauninrtlieuitgipitianrecol'dcaineui'ttto,tle:erirertrnaldvippnearJtpsl,aersai,lneu.i1lJp"ulu"ecaicgccpedetce,_tilutqfrrtirilrJiiceic*aliitepz;,
doui fire albe, doui
fire rregre etc. Rapor-
tul dc culoare in ur-
zeala. der;i. ssls dr';ra-

tnr firre ;

destrrreaza
britdturii, a"
or'dinea
stirrga r.ir'pu-
rlili lt
lui cu iltt-ervaI rle un
yralrElel s-a uritat in
l'ig. 312. Efect de culoli
produse cu o urzealn alb[ cL) ordine se succed fi-
ordinea batltnrii : 3l-1- ilodel crr cfecl rele de bititur[ crolo-
qi cu de 2 culori. rrate. Ordinea b{tiltu-
2 fire albe, 2 fire ncgre.
rii Ob s-a de.scrrat dc
ios in sus, deci tlouir
fire albe, doui fire ne-
gr:e etc., incit raportul

de culoare in hitlturrl
r"e,zult'i de patru fire :
se conpl€tea-
z,ta t:-tt
culoale leagrri
toate pltrifelele mar-
L)ate in druptul firelor
negre dc urzealii.
Fig. 313. Model cu e{ect Irig. 315. illotlel cu cfect tle tloui!
de 2 culoli. culori, dennrnit pcpit. ln fig. lill. brlta-

tul'a este albf,, iar ur-
zeala este forrnatl din

rlou;r firc alhe, dtruar

Iclc rregre tle ur.zeala vor-produce e{cct negr-u ,rndjiii#.-tii;lrii"oir;il.
strerrciiomqip_leatneualnzei in pdtrdfele marcate, deci, in d"r,e,opi{o.ul f irelor.
],eg.e de- urzcal;i.
cu culoare lrcagr'ai toate pitrd[elele marcate.
In fig. 3L2,
doua fire negre; wzeala este albti, ial ordinea batnturii este tloui {ire allrr: si
cvident 1cgru.
cd firele negrc de bf,tirtur:l vor produce efcct
:rcolo unde ele leagf, deasupra urzelii, qi anume h patrElele lenarcate. l)eci :
se cornpleteazh cu
lirelor culoare neagrit toate pdtr6lelele nernarr:ate ip dreptul
legre de bdtiturii.

Pentru a obfue rnotlele cololate estetic. raportul lcgrturii treblit si

aibi aceeaqi mdrime ca rapor.l,ul de culoare .oo ,rrrrl sa fie inultiplul celuilalt.
Ilacii raportul legdturii este de 414, iar raportul
turii de cinci fine, se va obline un moclel colorat tlt culoare a urzelii si a h;itri-

neestelic.
id-nift-er'recibtu,uiprtrorfaiantteafcacepie,taupqlei clnedtgr,udintuforfrdirgnqa.ir3ea1am1r,unnuoerdzedelieaalgloiorencsaotlelo2raa/l2tbea(,dciiinarcrfaihgsfii.tla)3,tuletrl.er9aci su3te1a2sirp.oeskc,,+-t

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ZIt.FII ap arrqasoap a.rds ,p1u,r;



CCL.

{il1 l}tlill) .'.)r:,i l: \ ,}f .r.lll{ltllrtt.): lllill.r.rl: 'lJt:lll ll:Ul .UUUl.,.rs 'rttl irlo l: tIJIUJ(l
([lt Jrl riil ]1;l i::1::(ilir.iit,iillll ltlrs.).tu,i] Jl L).ilrlllll.?(l ,alr t3 ?lPazJll e[, il[.]JlJ IdnJt
ilrililrrn {) lrL)l.lJ tl-s 'il.tu1p1131-1 C ri llii}Z,rtr llotllPjto uI'IJ In}dB1 rrut{
rrri.iu.lrp").litr;i'((liit{i[i(llrlir)ss nr-rbr ulroeull(I'B/B lr.rrnnJtlJurrp nP alJ.t€olc.ag'e1unrpnlr.8

-,-1ru):r.o01o1ulizrloitrr..irrlirlrrlrrrlp1rlr1.rp1.lrl'lr!...lrrrrz.ruruur!r:rrlrll;3rn;Jrrn;lp)ir)pr.'lqrorip.lJ.rz(rrrr).du1ll.ntrrr].fooriE.srlt1l.l?)uu.oorrroPsJrl.rorrir?orr)lrl:'auu,frurIt'rrer:rJslsi.q.urI1Bptu.trql.lp.nlr\t!:r-llntlrsutrFt.i'Jrrq.]1cro'.grInFonIceuut'-trofsltflpuls1Jse6JJooutUJaIB"nps'dlrIOl.IIuuuteJIjtlI:Cal osrtlSata'rfp."iortr't3tlB[erlou-tttllr1tJptJtuatlrruFa[
]io1.,,) .)r) r.).[ *[ r]r'i)r:rrrt[ p.r.1e1sq ap Fr,rz.r,, ,u j'i:.|;'.,l.1"'tl?"J'.l.t';h':i1od rtrtu
q}t;ittrtrq

-J.rlrr! lr.nrltio*.r1 op oprrrtlap r3.rnlysei ot{ ttloltt'r t: J.ltt.\.I.rstlo "U1 a,,rtu-roUlt*".trzitnttls;.toc

rjr:1'.rtr"- otr qr.ru1 0s Bs *or j;'#:.i;,;.:,';,",j.,j::],J'il]i,ii,ii.fiiljlilli _

!rs orr{[.).rr .rrlrrirrrrrrIu...) B.r.rrFrlp ..r1rrorl ('"sr9,,lu.,.or uo'u,1:o1,;lrnlurrrt))l:i.ni.rr;tFilletuirlrltlptur:!al"Ipefiptro:IiulutlI"r"ril},lI;l'outlns"rit)l

ir '16{: 'ffr3 nrr Eoletru 'rro1rt.l rr.rlutl u1
ur .rur 'r.ro1nc roJl uI lapout ull tucJJ e-s a'169 '6i; u1
l.)lr()rrr rnr 'g'IZ1:'3r1 'u.rn1rifia1 .rouolrra JBJ,rEttt ll-s o.tlr.) otl pdtulc ut 'Bs ue.ruol

-il:r lli) n.rulUlrlrl urrrtl)Jo ri rr1.rz.ilr uJurP.ro lrrp Jr.l J.rBJerI llzllollasop oq'rJoIlI;)
lr'rrol) n.).roli)lirl)orrr ui)J1r{r,}s,rl) rI rr1.,]).rIi]]J"l-1:1sllJrIs'r-lliltlt)tuttllt)l,er..rrolrrtdl 'lto1rtnl ;..prQlrq'arI3IJ.rrtri
rrr l.loln.) Jllnnr ruttr.nrr[.] nrs 91r:az.ru

tS cqlu

.).rrJ llriuul(li).rlur nr?-i'i).n?or.r.)lulr olr.rnir; rlrl).tololJpotu uaJuEIJoJ nJltrod
ilrUrp.ro'tulllr(o[uloil.r)l:l,nslor?p-osuFr JrS}r1]udqeuJlltqr]usdu'-gs'0'(Z11t r'Ei l6J
cp .)li).u.1 rrl) rrrrz.rrr Eluazrtr

uI

'e.ruolnc ElIu oP 'lu!F- ';).rud ElPcz.ill 3p alrJlJ
r;rap'r,.rrrrI Jlroqulp rjzr]elu.ro] cJuJ cleJrI ,tut'e.tgoltl o tru lltFrtup !zPilt[JoT a.re.)

'sdr.r r.rn1q3.r1 nc ,rsupo.rd r.tolnJ JP a1a.r;',1 '961' '.dt.,1

ii0

l.a.rr:rltrr li[r]Jz.rn i)p .)lir.rrI '.rrnnuy 'oJuoprc Llllr? op lngs c.red o[J,] Jut 'a.tuo1tt,t
{r il) lurs.r.rndttrt.rpturtp Jl)rrn '0A{''5r; rrg cl)a.r lr,q rull;}'lSurll) arl o.rnpo.irl
.-lrlllri)\{,))lrus[iJlJll.sriloi:,llrtl.,rt)tui,,'rIrlt)'lrr.IlertuJl;z,ll..)tnJll.:))l'r,r.r.ttleln'tr[srLrrl.tftJltIttlJltls.zIe'JuilJtrno:jlrt[.r)r1lntrBo(t1rl-'o{o.tt?-rrs:uc.tt{Jltnt1slr^-tltJtltBlll.ls"Illtl.Ill,tt?.tts({rlrlJtl.rPr.tttl1lltl-lr:Jr3st.rt1tlttlltrtllr't1tlil'n.].lrrtiJi

b

321. i\'Iodele cu c{cctt dc trei Si piltrn

culori.

322. Producerea nlodelelor colorete mari prin schimbarea
leglturii.

9.tz

'lnullqo lProloJ Inlapour - q 'Rzuld RJntEAaI nJ puoJ un ad lf,nl-€8el nrlEd roleJ uercrmr - 7
: clrraJrp untEEal

nJlud rrf,(I clr.rJJlp r.lnBrJ n.rlud snfo.r(I nD-s i)lprrrpnlr8uoJ rSunp lrc puol un r([ feF

Irer!ig(errlrtJdnrJnluudr ;rrrnlglgq B rS 'rellleeizFJJn}TBdauVr/pVJo^lupo! drS,s1o!tcu'gt.,rn'1Gg/8Za1?puu!nldlsluaroz?eJ.ro?atErJ!.
Jurrlc nus roJl 'g?snonplr'nralulluurJlelouslolDlBoJqsorlallloJqcrcJsror]up'ussnnnpu"op.rl]dJcnoInrlruluaBgsqa'ppRgipIqsunlsI]IIaezaJ.rrdt
ape,r
lrrls alaJrl pcpulll '.ru1c

EaurpJo uI '?, B.rnFrI u! epa:r as tunc 'gzugd 9m1p8a1 nc puo; un ad alrrallp Irnl
-r8a[ rur]ud ]ucJBru nu-s 'rJncol n.r1ud elsaae u1 'qc 1n1duy ur.rd 'a1r.ra1rp ol?p
-ortr ru1ecl snpord n,B-s rFunlt nc puol un ctl 'q'g7g'31; it1
"Iurrrpnlr8rrol
'Bluqurqc,sou sururgr u run1g19q u r$

ne'ucJl1Ialuu6zsrrf.prn,aIe,ulSsaeuuguenr.frprfrJ.qroJoI8udq?utczntJ!pe'nZllueZnopu,lErani'qI3acolJIr'1Jn.uteollo-l1s'rntorlgad!zulIuuengqxldouaprpqoe.rcung1s9r'uSB8ma-ls1ulgqun8rurcenu1lq?glc8Iqs-ouI1urpq-socEsc1luunoan1szdrireronoyrldnuoarpf.elrsdlas6Ige1a1sJu1u1Igl1I
-rrrre u! 'gc uaecr atrsa r.reur cluJoloc eloponr eanpo.rd p ap ?polaur ElIu O
'aluFeau rJlloJur)
61 rurr.rcl Jor. as'08 lS 0g'Br'rZ ap4! gdnp orr.rn1gl!?q BouIpJo u1 .rur op;; rS
0t '0G c1a.rr; Ednp Ee.ruqrrrrqcs acBJ ua os IIIOtrzrn BeurpJo ug'nldurexa aq'erieu
-rqrrroc uorEolFnrJn ccsJ alBod as 'oIBSoou unoJBrc ollnru rEru l{ur.rd e rlJ]uad
oP BcunISuaIuIp ztrJ aJB? u[
'r.)l-01 'or$ 0Ll0V Ba:\? JoA eloJBolces orrlazrn eatr

lp lll.rrl pclnp'rr.rn1pl-Bq paurp.Io u1 .rur'ea1-gl? IB IIIJII gdnp
-rpJo lr! nldurara ap 'uelecprrrqcs crBI os 'aIEFaau eJuolcas ouliqo u rulrrad

'a1u8a eruolcos rce[.]

'0Bi0B Eaunlstrorurp no rJaur aJeoloes rururl .rol or^ '08 prnlTlBq ep rt pleaa
-Jll ilp JIo.rrI pdnp ua.reqmqcs aaEJ es 'nldlll,axa oo 'arIJ ap oJBtu rPuI J9tlln$

L imbinarea efeetelor de trXgdturd, materiale, structura firelor,

spatd gi finisare

Efecrtele tlc in{rrrnrusctale folositrr j11 111s{ juclicios lnarosc considcraliiI
valoare:i tc'-.il1irriior. f iirir 'i] llt'('e ilrca rrrult plelrrl clr: cos(. r\stIcl rlt ef r'cte

sint :

0.1. Ffertc de legiturii

S-tr rt'iittt ('e 2rspeul r at iut s, l)'rllu (la !esaiturlilor in|t'eltr.rintititI ]egiituri
triotr:ir ite pentrrr ilct',cte !esAtrrri" {c ercmplu la tesAturilc perrtlu toc|ri ;i r,:e-
rui;i tlc laLri se pot intrebtrint:r lcgtitirrile ajru', pri n cate sc ltlor.l rr,: in tesir-
lrrrir rririluli.

]ocrtltt prosoape gi halatc tlc, baie se rt-'croutantlir legirtulilc fagur,r" plin
.rrr' [{'siilurile plimc-sc o stnr('lura ce}ulari.

S.l. Fl{eetc tlc nrater:ial

Irttlebr-rinlinrl. ir aceeasi tesritulii. file rlc rliIcli tc matr.r'ialt," c{'llitr{]sIc
tntrlt r itloarr',it ei. De tre;nplu. dacti intr-o stof ri rIin {ile ,lr: lirra picptrirra(ii"
elupit irn gltrp rle ,i{} tle {ire rle birtituri srr ba[. ;a-*c firc rlc biil-iitrrra dirr plir. rle.
ioprtt't' :tngola. in Iesatr.rri sc \'or prorIrrtr,' dungi tritrrst tf-*alt' rliri plorrrrntrrte
;i stirntosatc. I)attri. in lina ('ar'(lata, sL) allrste{:ii -.r'aurc rll tnita-sLf rlc al1i 1n-
loare sitrt rlt: Iuiitast artifilialr'r. tlc{'s[ ]raterial r a st:]rimlra foartc nrulI asptr:lr.r[
tlsirtrrlii.

E.3. Dleetc produse prin lire

;\cestc cJecte sint foartc rlcs ittreltLrintutc;i anLlute lilclr caL'c prot{uc
elccte pot fi :
I:'ire rle rlilerite !4rosinti. I)e cxemplu" rlupri 12 fire de ru'zealir subliri ur-
nv,azi dorrii firc groasc; lcs:ilirrir va lirezenta dungi in hurcinre. Dacri si: pro-
ced.ea'zit la feI ri in birtatur'ii. tesriltrra r.a pfi.z{'rta c'aronri egalt: (rlr' .rrc,riplrr
tesil.lua r.ururilir ..'l'oliralt'o").

Pen{ru ('arotlri uccgalt'. adicir ruai lungi, sc poatc facc urrndtoar.ca e,our-
lrina!ie: ilr trlzealii. l2 file sirbtiri, douii gr:oa,sc gi in bfrtituth, 24 rlt: firg srrh-

!iri. douir gloase.
If irelr matc 1i r:u lrrt:i rr ltinc trornlrinirtr' lrLoduc clcr.tr- [oalte Irrrnro:tse..
Uu e{elt tlc acest ger} eslc intr'ebuinlat foarte des }a stofele pentr.u hainc
!riirbf,te;ri. Dc cremphr. rlrrpri rl0 dc fite rle linir pieptdnatii (deci ruare) rrrmcrzi
patnr {irc de ttrtitase arlificiali (crr Inrriu). care. dc obicei. au si altri crrl,rare

;i h,gAtru'ii
Flferrtul din firc matc si tlr luciu, atit'in
intrebuin[eaza la Jrasmale si la cl'avatc. uLzt.,itlA" cit Fi i1 liilti{.trrii" -st:

(-'r'lt'ntiri riurltc si r'nai lcu;itc cfecle se prodrrc in lesirlrrrir llrin asa-rurnri-
trelrr.lili'rle e.{pr'!:. }'irr:lt'tlc cfccl carc {ifura {g cele olti;rptilc ca
-*int fire
fitrtitil" r'ir tt'ltnir'ri. r'a lolsirrrrr':ji r.l rtraterial. filc sinl {,{)ntl}lt-ce. de o}rir,ei" rlitr
tItrttii :itrr r]in rttrii rnrrltr Jire r]c diielitc
itr t'r'lc cc urrrreirzir. sc gr'osirni, [orsiuni ri tlin di{t,ritc inale-
rialr. rlr'scrirr citr ra fire r[t cfet,t 5i intre]rrintarerr lor'..

:3{.i

I(t;
,J- C L'

.ro-\ JS'qJlulililq lI! Is ]!:) "BlBozIn u! l!trll llJJIrI lsaJlr oJuJ Js ricB(I'?lIJalIP
IrUrrsJol Itc oJIJ op ]rJJJrp ftrBlilallo.r olsa EIIruItrl r"rrPullI'e1.'r'rcstp rtrut'oluutp
.n1rFuo1 rfrrnp 'g.rnlBSel u[ 'curiqo .Io;\ os 'ulrlea.tp J.Ids i].lII 0t rOdB 'ufirrl1S
.ll'.nrls.r(?)1l.e).unol lsLrol,tir.rlcli.urrrnl (9[i5)J. lprru! grriur,rrndqcdlcln?!J'ncldJu:)rnePxOaJdc(l[('tr(t{lrlItlsltJt[oloasPrJIJnlrls!:tl(eosi alrJellp

ItJ

lunrs.rol 0P slrolil't^8

'.lJl srtr.I\u

JOlir,ru()-\(r., 1r.).lllJr.r({}?J t1 ri..r.rntttr1rt1.r" .}lrt{uttI c1r.r[1 9s.rj ll.l]tl.xI !zllJiurn(l
-i).tlrtl Js,).il] lllsJJ\;'r.r11i)orrr-{ cl.) i).rltt! i)lr;)tl-cri.r rrtr lrttrl'.rlrttilrtt .,].rrJ J[Jtl] l

'r.rpurlr:r cp JI[.):r.li)d llrJ.rl ll .)l)
llr,ocillr:p[ll:nl]lfitpr]pu.!l1JrP.on]r{'JullsJl'alroJniiSzl(oolJlJ?l0}l(ro1[ulssu.J)Jrrlr0[]JIt\Pl:ll]rrturt."InrlrIls(r(J)i[)leJo..lIlr)l):leP-JoolrnJlcscIfIc.li)nluJl?o(,rlrJloolJ'(]rtol[lsIrJ.ul,)]{it,zua)rueSur]ps.uaf1.lnpr.ru'ior)ns.sIlnP.[sJl,rr)..ltnnll1rlrnl?{JJotJ[IJoJlt]I.tptiJ:{lilaI(}Iil[I))lol,ls)o)J(.11l.r,It)Jr+'..Il(lIlmI+rltrtJrllrlu.-lI.llrll-1'lrzurJuru:Ul))oldu}l'IIlr'(;l^!lr[}nrJ;rz)SuPurBrou1I.lr:l]
Jp EurSRur o prrlirrrrtrl.ulrr! nldurJ\i.) Jl'lrJil5-r.r.l ,)l) JlllrrJdi- ltnslrtll 1l:) Jnlo.uI
;p]isuri):1lrsrrllp'r.r)(u.[llrjeplJ,)6l.Irrurrr!.rlIul.'..rrn(lt)rtlPrIrsrioloJ'udlrar1aatllll]u-e0rc;P)s!r-JfiorlJi.)ttrtlu(sl-Irl.lJrlrlJi.lJrsr.,nJ)l:r.p:)r.u.ir.l(ltl)Jrlor.i).[)a.]..[r].ut]rJ1ls1crlr:r!rsJolrin)l.tirlD.n,P1rrrr'ttqc-?sidrr.rtp?LllIssrupaouyt
'i)lrsdo:rcu rrurn,r lJop 'alr; rrt .rpurr.r1 prl llu r:J.ruoIrr,) 'i]luffJl l s-oJ rIu JJiut]
'oi^asdor os rodl? ri lrjrrr:1srP ul fir.ll?lsrl) r.trl) slrl.tls FfiuJ[ ,.)"-';r.r11 .tP,)Juul IBttI
.rlrrlrrr ulr nr cs :.rolllru.nl IlllcJ rrt ourjtp 1od os i).ll .)lsJJu
'rJnoJui, iluP'rri:rl.rrp i)llt({urB rrr olllirrtrrtlcJlrr!.Ir?I',rurr3rtn1 'o.rrstlo-r rtr.r.1

Iil alE,Iol{)J a}iJaIJ
Errilrjsci ul nup 'tr1cz.m r:rico,up u! lutltltil l;trittrrtrl;r.r1tt! 'J.IrJ Jli-ir)\i 't:rttta.ttltut
e.rr; c11nur luur nPr^ Llnop or^?cllsF.r.rs todu li r.r01rr.r Jlr.r.)lrl) il;).)ol lrr;l()l rrll)
alo.rrI pulrlrr.rdull'l]srr!'olnpo:d a)^ r.rticl?lJ lrr JJJ.llJ trrp al.tutl .].rtrul llttlt t;):)
'alritprs.rrJ urt'l-t:llrr .trrnr".r(rl rl.) l.r()lnrrils rrttnt ;tt.tnl itt 1r:lrtil.rar;;
ptuJrrsI,I rlus r)Jtsoln.' lrlll:.)l' Jr.l llll'.rrJ riltlrl pt.rrtl'rr1 'lu1n3l.t;rrr ptu?ttsf.r
oollpoJd eleo(I ruul cs BlsaJV '9dsuf :lrurnu r,lrlcri[J n;).rtJ un i]rui{[(] i)s 'ir]r(losoal]

uolllD pulau'rJt11Jo1mrc>- tnop lirrull.ldut! JSJonsfJ;)s l-:i)lrO'.).r1rsr[t]J llr:s^ J.nJnsB.r
lansFrlirrn.jllgpe-pJrlF) en.ruar;rr,rcu1.rs'rJ.r'pJ,Vlr7'rJ.r'arl7lrt:^aJtit.ul'iIllrl)tottlJrort artpn,rd rr.tu;r tirilr.nll
ur.rd ocnpo.rd tod J.IrI i)lrtlrt t,tll,,r,ru,
-n'ea.rou c]i)lnl
.rol

trincl su.rl Jltlrti) ntss lrtrttio.r olsa'gitttllsrp rrt riitrtrl-stl) trtP',tt1 tttt'11.ru1 1c; u*rr
u! ( (uolnc ts' rullrsJol 'nurso.r3 clr.raJ lP i)l) uus- a.ruoln.) l5: Jt[llls,Iol ',autt-qoJ3
n''rrlSrouJr1.erc-+l1cr)npa;l8rJuAaunlopr1?o)JpBoc'l-;"oarrcrpr;;rn.r)Btfltil1snutuocu.lorssllrroprulrn!tcr'rJrytrotifp.sIrnfuul8neuroplrssll)rporJa-.surr'lf]uld.P)tnn(rslJJlrB.olro-.L{rrl])crsr1Jt:Jri.l[;r,)c)n'lll]];sssrouiB;1Jt.(rrV[n-r1r""r]lr!.o.]un.lrulrt)pI.llsol,r]t:sttJu'Jt)t.r(:ri[)ltu.(r)[.n.)t'llrts(..[Irou'rll)-ronurslrI
ap l)lttllcu! r.meSap trrtd cs
uurrlln BI'ljo'lallsB ftr.rquJ rr.rnlgsai u,rrlnsuaP 'ir.rrrol.rotlsur.rl trsuur .rrl 'gp.ru.^r
as aJII olsaDv'r.[rJtrnr[.] rS r.tnarloll lr.l o.rrl cseun-ilr
leltsV 'rnInJrJ gIunpls.are,rctBt!u:lUl Jcapp lIrulr',1r.orl1l1tu.r^ly.')a..r)Jl;lri)nllrl?(lf.rco,rlauip)
es il.IrJ ol) ?ruoFIA ep r$ lprrr rr]ru
'oJd lod os o.nJ alrrn
p q) Blrcllsoop Fur.loJ o ne c.rtc a1e.rr1 rrr.rrl l;rrtpo;ul rrluorl :r.- l;)aJJ llu lr l
' ilu' rrtJn I' uotl,f Jl ttu l o1 r.ilr ; r.r r,r rr.t ; trarl
Ezuoiurnqe.rlrr! cS 'olcnq el$ru rnllrJrl
1nFun1 B-ol) tzl?.)ln.roI o5- pl sP,)iu ur.r([
'elr.lo}rp rrrnrsuol n8 olrrauodluoo aIaJrJ 'rrJrcnseJ lndurrl rrr ';1';[r1 '1a1lo-n clrJll!-!r,t

'glrrp.rrc rtPs Ell?uPldcrcI flrll op '.rrrrplrrrl ,)p ,r.rrj lrr!i trl-{or)\, '.;7t77t't.t.l'"' a.tr,;1

obline,' in lestrtur:i. carourj carc pot slr {ic egale sau ueegale, in func{ie cle

rrnmdrul f irelor intrebuinlate.

Acestc e{ccte sint {oartt' mult iutlebuintatc la lcsaturilc pentm imbr[-
cim'iInnlteredbeuliinnfiiinpdie. pitnanaatcac. ea;i tcslltuLa, Iirc crr torsiune rrounalti qi lirc r,u

torsiurrr: Inare, {e-cdtnra \-a prezcilrta inc|r:!itril'i satl r'a Prirni trn aspe(jt grarrulos;
:rctst elcct s(' rnrmolte e repolaj.

Prin iutrebuirr{area firelor sirnplc, ;i a lilclor rasucite din doui sau diu
rnai tttultc lirt'. in accea;i tositrlri, ,qc pot produce cfccte. Ufectul sc rnureite,
daci {irele riistrcite au o flotarc lungir;i rlsucite mal'e sau tlacir firele sirnple
sint torsionatc lntr-ulr sens" itrL celelaltc in sens inyers.

8.5, Efeete de spati

Cu o spatii se iIalort produce cfcotr, (la('ii sc trage i[ syrat.ii, 1re o po|tirrrrr. rrrr
porgiuuc. rrn
nutnir lnai mare. pe altd nunrlr urai mic de lire sau url(:lo

r::isufe riimirr goalc ; lesitlrra va prr)zelta in luugimr: riirituli.
Astfel de lesattui sint intt'ebrrirltat{) pelrfu pcrdele, felc de masii, r'anrr u
pentru lucru manual. ciirnirSi 1i rochii dc varir.

8.6, Ofeete ile finisare

in tr'riras.iionrlitsirrttelnl rrsj(it:zrrrun"iololro, lrleets'aititiui rirllcr' ntr silt intrebirirr!ate inteil iat rlrilrti
ttscrt. " |rin cat? so lx)t prorlrrr.r'
l'iuisare

di{critc cfccte.
:\stfel, ele pot {i vopsile, apoi iur,priluate siru Lrnr,lc pot {i suprrsl ruai
tnrtltor opr:t'atii. De crcrnplu, pot fi mceitr;ciersizuaptrca,faallalli,tepli;mi i1n-colpusintc.asPplcinct
lcsirturile i;i -<chimbi'r atit stl'uctula, lin[ qi a uuor. lrirrarr',
l-iuml_raPrr;irsr escfornrnroreiaarzri, pe pit:los.
lrn s() poate fonna
latirne a !eslturii. l)e suprafala fcsiturilor dc ,tcsetirri ,le
pc sulll'afafa lr:srilurii stlat pufos. Accst strat pe intreaga
Ldlnifeelrcit{ciqfiigi iunrih(urrogrinmbrr,lrsi,acuaProcuurineetlcc.)l.)or.tilrni.
alcntrrind

B.?. Efeete ile eulori in fesituri

Jesrltulile r:u o singurit culoare. uulnite ,,u,ttrit'. pot avea euloarea naturali
a fibrei, sau sint vopsite ca materie prima, ca fir sau ca l€srturd in
Celc nrai rnultc pesiituri, bucata.
in special cele pentru imbrdcdminte, nu au,
dsiengcuurltol rci uirlora1r-ee,scirliusri.inAtcfeesstuctee{deicntef,ircead;ie insd. tr
diferite culori, care produc
legiturile, pot.,,arial ds6i cfecto
producc in leslturi nenumdrate ruotlele colorate.
-s1:1,ot

La combinarea unui rnoclel cu efecte de ouloale trebuie sd se aibir in
vedele armonia dintrc cnlorile alese, legiitura Ei scopul in care va li folosiilr
!esiltura.

9. Crearea,,rrnciurilor"

llodelele crcatc cle descnator pe hirtie nu reuge-qc totdeauna qi in lesdturri.
Pentru accasta, se fac apa cnleummiotedleelerernrcrirruliif,e,rreitsepelecgtiviitub.uric, 5c{irudleor{ie;isdntuuarnitein,
caFe s-au produs 60-100
(fig.324).

238

'Ellqotu op r.!rrl?sai rJ'lrrad r.)rrat tnr tlurz.).1,(I {6t tilJt
'?l!qoul rs lrruooaP n.rlltJd
'p.ru,ruI t.It1]f:-oi '1iuq.rpq ri raru.r; rulrrarl BJeorJclxa clururlrJr^rJqru!
tJlllESai 'rrnlpsai ap .ro1r.rndr1 uelBlrJo[tsru tlluod tj]nri]xa ,)s alr-rIrIorratl cp

aJols tc 'Flols ccr.ro tsc oluSrur1 luls clr.rrlr.)uatl'rJoln.) ri:rrr,rsap aluaJrp nr

arull1r.lr)r;oIttefmtru'ortcoSP1oJ0sgBr^tl:suB'lusXaSB0oIIBreu:zoB.rono],lru,BIrB1olS-r!.caru?erlnJrJ(n.lrin.rlsl uer1re.ru'nf]l9e'r]rrgr^nr;(r[J'erIo.DrdesrS9nr1rr1rlleauuz!rJ.rrlilorIlllllnlrlD]su-lJsi l?uljt,[rr{n[alrJjltuill
'Ilgo.r o.IrI t-e frcJ os olJ o.rlrrJ'rrirrurur Tllp ilP nr?s ilJpolnJ
Lllllr ol) a.lll ';rrt111j.16d aJBcorT II! ';rutttttt: ti !j.tllllllPq i)P J.rtt 'ttlJ 0I-8 oP

!llrtlour 3p r.rnqqs.ri n.ilrr.irl rtrr.r11'l,Z;f -FlJ

iunri.rotl:rtl'1uc1 os rjluoz,rn tlsucJe u; 'cr!o.r nus t^rqlr cJuolne cp o:rr; rojlrqo cp
'n1r:ittuuo.rd i|,nrolnJ o cp e.u+ t-A IIIIJ,r.r1u1 inrd,ri'alallilortr l:lnurI B ll,rluod
'alr.rclrP r.rn1g.8a1 al)npoJd u u.rlrtcd elr.ro1rP r,.rrpqrirr rru'rlxrrqo a| 'ri (riurrr[r rru:^
rruopr l^lllu nu er$1y arucar; rrrp olarrl :tur 0I-B ap uaurrigl u,r rr*11 B-g lrlp
1snilmoc TIei)zJn o ocllJ es
: lotrlsr ol$alrfiard os r.rllr,lucr n.rlrrerl nleaz.rn

Capitolrrl

I\'

Jes{turi compuse

5pt'r,rlt'ost'lrirl rIr'!t:siitrrri lc sinrplc. t;artr sirrI eonstittri tc rlirr r[ouii sistture
rl,' lirc, lcsiittrliltt {:onlI11s() sint corrstitrrit,: d.in trcri situ rttai rnrrltc sislt'rttc rle
Iilr'. nrrrrrirrtrl lor tltpirrzinrl r[r'r:orrrliliile rltr rr tilizale a lcsiiiur'ii. 1)c r.rcmplu.
1rt'nlt'tt ir tla grosilr('it lrtl(rcsau'ii rrnr:i slo{r: rlt: pitrdesirr, st irrtritlrrriuIrrazir rlorr:i
ru'zcli 1i o ltittii trrrir: p('nln1 mllizuttir urrrri stofe clt: paItun. s(] [r.s irrtltrcrrni"r
si sc untrsc irtlre eLr tlotrii Itsiittrri. lrrorlrr-.ul fiintl forrrrat rlin rlorr:i rrlzeli 5i
tlorrrr iratitirrri . l,rt uu irhrp. pe'rttrtr lorutartu. lx'sujlrirl'l1a lrri" l rrnrri strat rltt

sltior:ttri. 1rc lingii batirtura si uLzt'ala fundarnentali, sr intlrbtriuIrtzii o rrrzt'irlli
speliaLi pt'trtrrt -*ntoctrri. I'ritr aceasta, prirrcipalii parametri dc stluctur:ri,
groplietirf ilc f izit,o-nrr,t,arrir.r., as;rr.c1trl llrodrrsrllor.. lrfi)(:nnr 5i lrrot,rrstrl lr.lrnologic
stt f cri-r nrotlif irlri lpreciabile.

'f't'siitulilc c()rlll)rrse pot avea :

---. rlorrii srtrr ltli ltrrlt,' rrlzr'li ri o sirrgtrrir biititluil: in ar'{,('l;i tr.s:rttrlir.
- tlorrii slrr nrui rirrrltr'llirtatrili ;i o singrrri"r rrrzcali:
rlorr:i sarr rruri rrrrlt,'rrrzt:li si mai rn[ltc hiilrituri

'['r'sirtru'iit r'{)lr}l)usc }}o[. x\tra rlou* sau urai niLrlto trrzeliIi tttti tnttlte
J-iiitrtrrli rrrrrrrai 1x'rrrrelt'lrortitnri satt pc 1{)atA lt.rngirttca;i liitinrea lor.

l. lesdturile lanciate

'f'r,siitrrrile lancial-c sint loruratc dirr douii sarr rrrai rnultc sistcmt tle
rrlztulrl salr bitiituri'r. insil r11r pc liitirnr,.a situ lurrgiurc'a intrt'ugit u !r'siitrrt'ii,
ci ntrrnai 1ri' rrnele f isii. ,'rr contliliit r:a. in ar:cste pirr{i. sri sc f,rrmczt: f igrrr'i
r:irrt'. dr: rcgrrlii. Arr o r:uloarc rlifetitri de t:uloarca fontlulrri.

I"igrrra li!5. rr t't'1rrt'ziniii l a{a trtrtli ltsilturi lanr'iate. itl c:rt'tr s-it Iortuat o
figrrrii r.rr a.iultu'uI rmor ttirc r.lc urzealii. Deoarece {ignrt nu cuprin(le toltii
lirlirne..l It'siiturii. lt.t]ste {ire dr'11117tllti vor fi rrtilizatc trttnrni in pdrfile urrtle
lstt.figuril 1i anuurt'. Iirt.lc tle urzt'alil r:ar'r- lorrrlt:lzir figrrra lrr. irt at:eitstit
llarto. o {lotare tlillr'(. I)e rlt'rtsrrprir" ilpoi disllar" flotinrl lurrg 1t,r rletlesubt,
iri:r (.ulll se vede in fig. 325,b, calr: rcprezintil r'r:r'ersul {esiilurii rlin fie.325.o.

,A.Eadar" la lesaturile lanciate se deosebesc: firc de urzeali qi de bal{tru'ir
rarc f orrneazil tesdture fundlmerrtall, numite fire funtlurnetttale. 9i {ir't' tle

2t0

iru ."lt tlliir\ii l:i tl:l \,rrolci t* r:rtfl..tr.tl5 - Qf

'e.riquc orurl u-JlruJd lutu+za.rder grZls'tEa's'e3Iuor1JlnEcurounruirlldl)luuotat-J..illluiIlrleJ.rc{rllJ.r'ue:.0trlu1uSlrl.l 'nrl6t.rrl]l]uu[uoJJlduzul.:rp}nrul.rJrJul,l
rolarrl uaunrJaes rlulueze.rd clsa
DJrf Lrnop n.l'Finspc rsecacu u1 o.3u.r1 os r.rnFr; ruluarl ale.rtJ.rl?r'pjrrsgo o..r1u1
;).1 r.[ Fuop a]Ir] frrpu'rr-rnlgsei ea'rfirjp1 r]luot od'ut.roltttrl oJnJ rr- 3IPJiIsIIIul)uilJ
oP.rolaJr} u pleds u! tala8sJl Io rtr|lzc-I r-r.rn8r1 Plseo:)!? uI[) lol]
Etrlrrz.rri '?Jnlfl?q ap JII rtn alllr lrlserl'co1 rr r()I ulli ll'oJlrllpsul rtt,rtl;rtln't

.J.rluI cs rnln,rllonr JoIoJrJ u pFunl ea;rd ua;ruyo11 'ltront,r,tutlJul InlscJa l?oJBJI^J
n.rlrrod'lcpsepap od'g8un1 ee.rt{ olr}o1J o ec,\ts.ro,r p.rnff11 tl.rlrtctl e1a.rr1 'c'reut
Forcl aisa unFr; e.Ilurp eiuulsrp qau6'g.rn8rJ n.rlrratl Jolr.rtl erjrllo,t.r yz?euesol)
o:-'putln u1 'r$ IIJnEIJ cIaJnlIIOc l?zuanosoP JS rOdE'1tlt1.tel ltrr.le]u{ IIIir
a.,J_a,plq+rpllcr.E!iiIur.rlrlrrif;rOjrrr.o't*.l.s3tnsgeralBultlJurlrp,^Iouu:uelrzd)g,nJgsSn1",-u1r'nlBu.!elIFS1orp(11nrIj3s1lJFJnuJPIrncIrI:IIa-Jfo;:"xorg.lJn)uo'l1z.gEtra)protoEcdt?alsqasI[OEzBrIe'JIul]aaBiSdnlezeBOu]rJ]rlzIs!nJco'erFEn[roJ.I"rlJnPeeroannIJclpsllSIncr.JerrErronI!Iola.JolluccF1.peSIroI.nlE.]lerg[qllSlrindloln.cel'rra.l..Bllu'risuIiule€lrI.ucI^El]cA1nda[ar)erdulllJlt1.lrnlaatrIPluullll.lJllrpc)lzlt_nuotlr'rBlJ.glrJtllrrcJ,I.dJt\{rf.lf"r';t;r]c).rlIldrru,^Il)tIliJlerllrPrId)lItrilrrt]'r)J..arrrlIxlltruisuln.lr)urlo'cr-9)lA;1zru1r+bftdrantaJr-lr:.J1ir]ttrrtl.lrdPl)lr'ru;lltfaurnul.firelgJTnlllraI11rIPlelolrup;t.tlptI,lirOre)IrJtIzs1jl
EeliBBar.z,Junul1ilrpntorl:eslaciorlceue..ruu.crnn1.rr3l3rtilcl t!lllirltJzro1.rrdlrlr(r)'u9Glr{r:P'irillldotu.lo1
"tlis.rod otr:lueza.rAei tuls
u.rn3r,4 .Fll?ozrn u!
olEJgrronlnlcIJrF$eI"aoFaJIIcueo,clJnoeB1dntnrssuecclEurJlrunluF! cII.ponup.r!^luleEelJd'ep;leurnIraturJr;IFuJan;1r-JralJltpttqpoInlttlrOrlcslc'II^rr:.iunr{ul.qIlr.srIloB3Jl5^rsr.irdltlnrt.Ps4tgtIr(ea)lJr)l
n) JIrr ''l1a da.rl '1urro8ur1r 'stlr).tto 'nzrtld
ad ep'lBuuo} 3 so prlo} aP ltllurl\^
T: urillrdnu1rrf,qxoiueapprl.,?ald'iruirrssaigp.r.nrnlE$8rel lnJotrnucad(reeI3or.qrIoI
.prnlp1{]q 14 E qt\oaz.rn uC plDnuDI prtupsal a1*atttnu os u.rnlllsci
'zrl 1s.)rp u1 ! p.rn1g1gq oP olorr1 ap tS 130 'tr1uaz.rrt ol) ;!13'rll cP :lI1:ltD-.tlllplu.t
oIalsteBrurnI!u'p. us1l,ntusr-PipJon.ildfs'ezjE'r'3-Jrsn^1.n))1tr!tqu1cp'tielal.r"rItl1IprtFllfl.){
il! T,.lDtxlnl r2.tnlpsaf eP 0'J1}
.,p
+nralsrs pnoP 'tol --

'InsJa^eJ-g'e|e!*D
:!lrrlcn+[ prn1rs;t,i '56t 'EIJ

! p1naz.m u! pl:r),'rr'urry pntlpsal illsautn{t
a,'r.lF.e,1zIJlI,EnrrrIti.r'noEoyJP!nlp!l?rdllneBJ}PlBslB)nurrJ1oz?luI1Js4on'tIpaIoJen"prldE'pSui 19a,i6rau|cIe}'3SJrnuJla?uls}BrcpiJ'lt.*luer.na'r1zJ9.rr4snaEoi:jll)erlIi{aiI}pnJoIzJ[PaIltI0IPoalJs-gc Ilill}

'erln all{lu reir urp nBS JII Jn8urs un-JJTIIP alEulrol 11 }od l1r.[nir,4
.pJr!8$ tl.trtad .,rJ.iJ sXrillrnff ,u.rn3r; ?sornlgclE o.I.B:r ErnlFlBq 3p nPS l.rlPaz.rlr

Nevadirea se face in doud corpuri, deoarece sint doui ulzeli, fiecare ar-ind

alt rol. Firele fundamentale s.au nav*dit in corpul 1/ (fiind rnai multe, deci
aproape de lesltor), iar firele peiltru figur5, in corpul 1 (deoarece sint mai

puline 9i iEi schimbl pozilia mai rar decit firele fundarnentale).
La dreapta legaturii se vede lanlul de cartele cu citire pozitivir.
I)eoarece sint doul urzeli care leaga diferit (una se scur'teazd rnai nrult

decit cealalttr), vor fi utilizatc doui suluri de urzealii. La urzirc, se va tine

[,

al

$Ir

Spala

r$

[fl

/09

seama de faptul ci urzeala fundarnentah se scurteazi mai rnult decit urzeale
p'ioernmtnFarigtfli.gd3ui2nr7df;rierdeperleceiz,idnu'etrdzbeda6eltsaietufnuurndlduapnmeenei tlnreutsaahfitguyurairleaav.necAai'acoteeslutienngfbiimrf,eteatsmuirnadti,mrfeiagprureer.zaenfitiantde,

printr-un interval orizontal (pdtrd,tele pline). La dre,apta, este indicat motivul.

Tot in tig. 327 se mai vede ce firele de bateturd pentru figur[ sint
insailate, din loc in loc, legind peste cite un fir de urzeala, c:a s[ nu aibf,

flotdri lungi pe dos. Punctele de insdilare sint risipite gi sint cuprinse intre
flotbrile lungi ale firelor de batdture fundamentale. Firele de b[tatura pentru'
figur[ au flotdri lungi pe deasupra, in locul unde trebuio si se formeze figura.

Navadirea se face intr-un singur corp, deoarece se lese cu o singurd

trzeal6, insd se utilizeaza doul suvieici, ulra pentru l.iatatura {undarnentah -si,
alta pentru bdthtura pentm figurtr.

ill

$t

{q€

\3

F

(gn
B

E
0

g

!il

E
o

!o

g

N
g

:c
st9
-co

trlr\

Fts

_g
IE
gF
v=

Fig. ij2i'i r.t.|r't'zirrtii o Icgalurii, la care litttlief.'a s-a frit:ttt ittit irr tlirtt:lia
ufznlii. cit 9i iir britriturii. prilr rjite un singur f ir 1rcnL"rr f ic-unir
({ir'elt' tl . 10. 16 direc[ia arnbelor sisttrle sint file pctttrtr figuril), iitt'rtrl,
li 22 ale
lcgiitrrlii cs{c dat ntotirrrl -ilI.
Testiturilc lant:iate sint utilizatr peirtru (rrilyilte. itttlx'itr.,itltrirttl |etltru
lerrrci. pentru nrobili ctc. Ilatcrialele intrcbuiufate pentilt iltrlsto tesrttrrr'i sint :
llnnr]-,aJul {irt" ttriilasc:r. linlt pieptirnal:i "si fi'ri'le sintetirc.

2. fesdturlle semi-duble gi trlple de urzealf, sau de bdtdturd

A.ceste lcs:ituri au, p€ intrcaga lalinte Ei lung'inrc. doui sau nai ntulte
urzeli sa1 biteturi, cu scopul tle a obline o grosime ttrai tnare rr fesritrrrii,
cale. astfel, va fi mai solid6, ftirir s{-9i schimbe aspectul pe fali.
De asernenea, prin utilizarca a douii urzeli sau birtituri in aceeagi {esiiturir.

se poatc ila feslturii, pe fa![" o culoare. iar pe dos. alta ,catr trspt'ctul tcsiiturrii
va fi diferit : pe fa[d, lucios, pc dos, mat.
TesAtudle semi-drrblc pot fi :
-* de urzcalA, r,irrtl au doui urz,eli gi o hdtrrtrtrir:
_' dc b{titurir. cintl atr dourl }riitaturi si o urzenlir.

2,1. tesituri semi-iluble ile (rzeali

[,a itr.estt'fcsirturi" in nrajoritatea,'aztu'ilor. pc faIa -qe vetle uuruai
in{erioari, Prin faptul ctr existir
rrzcala -qul)erioarrl, iar prr clos. urzeala douri
sistcrnc qi ntaterial.ul lor pot s[ dilere ; deci,
tltr urzealri. cnloarea" grotsimea
fagl si
l.e'rilura l)oat(: itvoa un asPe{rt pe altul pe dos. f)ilerenl.a caracteristi'
aspect ale celttl tlotrii prlr[i ale [r:-qiiturii
cilol slructnrale, tlc culoalt-'sau
r*t'zultii tot.mai rlin rrtilizarea a rlouil sistettte tlilctitt rlc rrt'zealii. f ir:'r:ar.c rlirr

cle apirrind preponderent pe una din pdrfile fesdtulii.

Irig. li29 r:eprezintir o fesaturti lorruati cu doua trrzcli 5i o bAtittru'ii;
li-)ncccfelrurtitf-iuloizaurr:lia'rzze(tfitilrao.esllteLrglppireatrurioreiar.rirtieliap(rfgeiorzcnelnaetlatid,mt-c:paurr:t'nzce. carr'leuiip,cri'tiur'zrleilrfelat)apteloeraptugr'lirrlJr" tpa:i.irtat]t,5c{iaculrrcntptitn'lzinetlieitllrr)ri.

ilc,.cnul b din accastir figula.

f['zea[a prePondelenlii Pc r1'1-,'r'.111 !esritntii este? tlc ohicei. tlintr-un
nratcrial inf urior si de alti ctrloare '. i,1 s6l1rtrt'intii. sc ra t'r ita apari{,ia ci 1r
rfutrrfzaeatleasiniitlcurliioi.aPr:eii.nLalsutfaerl'einacstiat .p'u,'ncptloetl'ecdrelcaziniltsliinlartneosdiur lfiuerucrr{tpttrtirn':ses,etointdsierialeualuzti.i

intle dorrii {iotirti alc rrrzelii supet'ioaf,,. l'r'iit ircetrsta" lrrzt}alit in1.r:rioarri r ir J i

acope.rilir. cle;i. iu aceste loc,uri, leagti tleasupra. Aqadar', iegirttira stratulrri
infelior: b este in {rrnclie tle legatura stratului superior tr. Irig. 329. c t'epr',r"
zint:i o secfiuur,r longitudiinali in fe-qdtura pentru Iirele tle rrrzcali / 5i 2.
Linia groasii relrrr-'zinta ltirrrl rrrzelii superioare, iat linia sirbtirtl, firirl urzclii

in ferioarc.

l)atoritrr ,:ot'r.l;rli i l,'g;rlrrr'ilor' , r,lot' rlott;i stt'rtltrti. tit'zcal,r .ll1,r't'ioat'il .r'
vt oitscrra ntunai pr. la{a lr:sii(rrlii. ial'cea i11fqrfii-rari1. rttttttai 1tc t't'tetstll ti,

curn rezullii 5i tlin sr:c1itnc.

a/l,l

9V(,

;l.itJ flli)l| ()Jltt! r\IIJJ(ls,r.r'.).IrJ osBi s!1"r1 iri:-:i l?iil:;ir.) (,".r11il.ilr'^lit,rl) t.t:t(l.ro.t
l'(r.ilrrl)rpIrrl;lrrrrl.ru,.r))l:J[]1:1]/-s 'T : e Jl) itli.)
llJ.n t)!i-tljN rlJz.rn !10l) +1.).) rJlrrrl) trilrdo;r.;
uc r^r,rulp]r^r{l
1rr1.ro<hr.r cl, sullt rrrr'Juouc;ur tn[lr]u"rls
r.rirlr:ii.r1 .rttrllls'lJn.r.rtrr lurroBurl) lur i)ls^l (;rurltI .r1ai9.r1rrt[).rouorlns rnptJp.rts
tt.rtt11r,a.1'1 1:.lnltllLl(l o li llilz.ill !llolr il;)'1ltl1.ttllnlU!n,1at.l)ol.toa1l)1ertlrtz).ar.:tJrlnr.rri().ttl;it.irru"3rlr,,rlr rr:ru
;ic r.r.rn()r.r.).l ur ltllr.,rz.lrt.r.rulr tt.rlrrltl 1rlu1 "i-1il:.rinyti u.r sr;P,rrl tt.r{ir.n: uIrr,r ri r].} l
r:1rrrz,r.rrl .rs u.ut1r^rsoi 'r.lznu;) lllsll,),)lr ui{l i.r.nlr)r.r.)Jur.)llrlrlll,}.rl) 1eI.r,)lurt{ rul-J}url!
.tt.l l.ls.rlr:rtcl lt.ru<lr.r,)Jilt ll.).).nrt'lj.il?(r.r.)rlrrs,r';rt1t;P.r;)l) lut.l.)lll{lI llll-.rluil, i}lq.r il
t
r:.rn0r.r,rrltts u[ui)Z.Iil"r.),)r([o i)l)'rlSJlr^r(l.ri.:(l i]ilr?ol 1nt[;rP li r.rllls;)l].r]rd,rP.r1.r1(lls 'I
lf
.I'.rr,3r.lritJrrlr.u-ic1l.rIr-rr.r.rlrssr(..)'])[i-l.).)r.:nli)n;rl.o!I''tiltru.?:rrr.Jo.rlrl.JltJl1oU.r,r1-r)lrlrsslIz..tr'tltl'r,il:)lr7ultu.l:irI;l:ri1ll|tpirlc(ll.s6riolla.lBgls\iI.:ltl)lrl.,.]i)ruzipr.l.tirln!l.r)\).lz).J]l.l.Jlu)lnr.lr)..s1[rrrlu,_lri'rtr.ril[rr)'o](r.l-.itIilrtI.I.uttlt.l:tal.:lr:li,str'-rt:u|..q?rr't)litnrlr)t:tt]..nlirlrrnr':1rlsl'u:,r.rrl]'iri.!.rs.irJrrro]s.llrtr'r;'irlr..o)1rr';i:.]r'.iirlrir.;l.;rt1tr-ltlrpr.trorrrtrlr,ii1]lrrr('il;r'rrrrt:.rt.trilit1lr1rurrlril
,a)'.r!.z:1',t)trrU.lt.lc.lcnicIr(-1oI.s)c.'rllllnrul-1:f;ttIrrl'rstl.trsirt1oitrrrIl..r.or..irlIFtnnnsrlf,llrl,)t.'1lt!u.1':.r.{.|'rlul.lttzlt.rrli.llrll..l);lllnllJr:illnlrll,r]z:l:.l.n-tirlJ.i)rr1i.ir.,l.)or.tlrlJtltosl.ltJrlll.Iltl,llrr;lll'7ols.llllrrtr u
tln,]u.[
,rleoil I'
l'
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ale urzelii superioaLe, cite un fir de urzeald infertoard, car€ nu este lingi
dintele spetei. Din {igur[ rezultl cd punctele de inslilare ale urzelii inferioare
sint cuprinse intre {lotdrile urzelii superioare. La dreapta legdturii se vetle
desenul lanlului de cartele (*).
funcfie de raportul legitu-
rilor Raportul legdturii lesdturii serniduble este in
celor doui straturi 9i de proporfia dintre fire. In fig. 329, raportul cste

l'ig.330. LegtrturE pentnr o lestrturtr cu douE urzeli o battrtur5
l).
(proporlia 2 :

de 6 fire de urzeal6, prin faptul ch ambele legdturi au cit€ un raport de 3 {ire,

iar proporlia in urzealS este de I : I. Legdtura din fig. 330 are raportul tle
urzeala d,e 24 de fire. Atit legAtura superioar| a, clt qi cea inferioari b au

raportul de B fire. Datorita faptului cd propor{ia eelor 2 sisteme de urzeah

cste de 2: 1, unui raport al legnturii stratului inferior ii corespund doua
rapoarte ale leglturii superioa-

re, deci: I * 16: 24 de {ire,

care reprezinte raportul de ur-

zealir al lesatulii semiilui;lc:
raportnl dc Jrirtilturl eslc de

B fire.
Fig. 33I, reprezintE o le-
gdtur[ cu doui ulzeli qi o ba-

titur[, cu proporlia de 3: l, la
care urzeala superioarft va fi

foarte deasi.
La toate figurile, legatu'
ra o (pltralele pline) indic6
uiodtrl tlt, legare;r urzelii su-

perioar.e, iat leg[tura b (cru-
.irrliti'). rtroclril tle ltgltrt: it rtr-
331. Legnturd pentru o tesdturi ctt tlriuar trizeli
zelii inferioare.
fi o bdtarurd (ploporlia 3:1).

2.2. lesituri cu trei urzeli qi o bitdturi (triple ile urzeald)

Cele lrei urzeli pe care le are feshtura sint: urzealn superioard, ttrzeala
inferioari sau de ceptuqeala gi grzLala meilie, care se mai nulneste urzea'!'d
tle umplutu.rii. dup[ rolul pe care il are de a rnlri grosirnea fesdturil'. :

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