Lonely Planet Argentina

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Argentina

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Edition 10th Edition
Release Date August 2016
Pages 640

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4 easy-to-use How to Use This Book
sections
Look for these symbols to quickly identify listings:
PLAN YOUR TRIP
1 Sights 4 Sleeping
Your planning tool kit
Photos & suggestions to help r Beaches 5 Eating
you create the perfect trip.
2 Activities 6 Drinking
ON THE ROAD
C Courses 3 Entertainment
Your complete guide
Expert reviews, easy-to-use T Tours 7 Shopping
maps & insider tips.
z Festivals 8 I&nfTorramnsaptioornt
UNDERSTAND
& Events
Get more from your trip
Learn about the big picture, to All reviews are ordered in our authors’ preference,
make sense of what you see. starting with their most preferred option. Additionally:
Sights are arranged in the geographic order that we
SURVIVAL GUIDE suggest you visit them and, within this order, by author
preference.
Your at-a-glance reference Eating and Sleeping reviews are ordered by price
Vital practical information range (budget, midrange, top end) and, within these
for a smooth trip. ranges, by author preference.

These symbols and abbreviations give vital
information for each listing:

Must-visit recommendation

Sustainable or green recommendation

No payment required

% Telephone number f Ferry
h Opening hours j Tram
p Parking d Train
n Nonsmoking apt apartments
a Air-conditioning d double rooms
i Internet access dm dorm beds
W Wi-fi access q quad rooms
s Swimming pool r rooms
v Vegetarian selection s single rooms
E English-language menu ste suites
c Family-friendly tr triple rooms
# Pet-friendly tw twin rooms
g Bus

For symbols used on maps, see the Map Legend.

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

Argentina

Salta & the Iguazú Falls &
Andean Northwest the Northeast

p218 p150

Córdoba &
the Central
Sierras Uruguay
Mendoza &
the Central Andes p285 p517

p318 Buenos Aires p52

The Pampas &
the Atlantic Coast
p115
Bariloche &
the Lake District

p356

Patagonia

p400

Tierra del Fuego

p492

THIS EDITION WRITTEN AND RESEARCHED BY

Sandra Bao,
Gregor Clark, Bridget Gleeson, Carolyn McCarthy,

Andy Symington, Lucas Vidgen

PLAN ON THE ROAD
YOUR TRIP

Welcome to Argentina. . . . 6 BUENOS AIRES. . . . . . 52 Santa Rosa . . . . . . . . . . . . . 132
Argentina Map . . . . . . . . . . 8 Reserva Provincial
Argentina’s Top 20. . . . . . 10 Tigre & the Delta . . . . . . . . 113 Parque Luro. . . . . . . . . . . . . 133
Need to Know. . . . . . . . . . 20 Parque Nacional
What’s New. . . . . . . . . . . . 22 THE PAMPAS & THE Lihué Calel. . . . . . . . . . . . . . 134
If You Like…. . . . . . . . . . . . 23 ATLANTIC COAST. . .115
Month by Month. . . . . . . . 26 Atlantic Coast. . . . . . . . . 135
Itineraries . . . . . . . . . . . . . 29 Northern Pampas. . . . . . 116 San Clemente
Argentina Outdoors. . . . . 34 La Plata. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 117 del Tuyú. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 135
Eat & Drink Luján. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 121 Pinamar. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 135
Like a Local. . . . . . . . . . . . 39 San Antonio de Areco. . . . 123 Villa Gesell. . . . . . . . . . . . . . 137
Travel with Children. . . . . 45 Southern Pampas. . . . . . 125 Mar del Plata. . . . . . . . . . . . 138
Regions at a Glance. . . . . 47 Tandil . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 125 Necochea. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 146
Sierra de la Ventana . . . . . 128 Bahía Blanca. . . . . . . . . . . . 147
Parque Provincial
Ernesto Tornquist. . . . . . . . 132

FELICITAS MOLINA/GETTY IMAGES © PATAGONIALANDSCAPES/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

ELOJOTORPE/GETTY IMAGES © SCANPTAIONNTOCANPIOTIDOENAPR0E0C0O
P123

CFAARPOTIJOONSCÉAIPGTNIOANCIPO0P05060

Contents

IGUAZÚ FALLS & Parque Nacional Quilmes. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 269
THE NORTHEAST. . . 150 El Palmar. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 185 Santiago del Estero. . . . . 270
Concordia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 186
Along the Río Paraná. . . 151 Paso de los Libres. . . . . . . 187 Catamarca &
Rosario. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 151 La Rioja . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 272
Santa Fe. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 164 Misiones. . . . . . . . . . . . . . 188 Catamarca. . . . . . . . . . . . . . 272
Cayastá . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 168 Posadas. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 188 Belén . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 275
Paraná . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 168 San Ignacio. . . . . . . . . . . . . 192 Londres & El Shincal. . . . 276
Corrientes. . . . . . . . . . . . . . 171 Santa Ana & Loreto. . . . . . 194 Western Catamarca. . . . . . 277
Mercedes. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 176 Santa María la Mayor . . . . 195 La Rioja . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 278
Reserva Provincial Chilecito. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 281
Esteros del Iberá . . . . . . . . 177 Iguazú Falls. . . . . . . . . . . 196 Parque Nacional
Along the Río Uruguay. . 181 Puerto Iguazú. . . . . . . . . . . 197 Talampaya. . . . . . . . . . . . . 283
Concepción Parque Nacional
del Uruguay. . . . . . . . . . . . . 182 Iguazú. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .203 CÓRDOBA & THE
Colón . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 183 Gran Chaco. . . . . . . . . . . . 205 CENTRAL SIERRAS. . 285
Parque Nacional do
LCA PBTOIOCAN,CBAUPETNIOONSCAAIPRTEISON Iguaçu (Brazil) . . . . . . . . . . 211 Córdoba. . . . . . . . . . . . . . 287
P60400 Foz do Iguaçu (Brazil). . . . 215
The Central Sierras. . . 299
SALTA & Cosquín. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 299
THE ANDEAN La Cumbre. . . . . . . . . . . . . . 301
NORTHWEST. . . . . . . 218 San Marcos Sierras. . . . . 302
Jesús María. . . . . . . . . . . . 304
Salta & Jujuy Alta Gracia. . . . . . . . . . . . . 304
Provinces. . . . . . . . . . . . . 219 Villa General Belgrano. . . 308
Salta. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 219 La Cumbrecita . . . . . . . . . 309
Valles Calchaquíes. . . . . . 233 Parque Nacional
Cafayate. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 238 Quebrada del
Quebrada de Cafayate. . . 245 Condorito. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 310
San Antonio de los Mina Clavero. . . . . . . . . . . . 310
Cobres. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 245
Salinas Grandes. . . . . . . . 246 San Luis & Around. . . . . 311
Jujuy. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 247 Merlo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 311
Las Yungas . . . . . . . . . . . . 249 San Luis. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 312
Quebrada de Balde . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 314
Humahuaca. . . . . . . . . . . . 250 Parque Nacional
La Quiaca. . . . . . . . . . . . . . 260 Sierra de las Quijadas. . . . 315
Yavi. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 261 Valle de las Sierras
Puntanas. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 315
Tucumán & Around. . . . . 261 Valle de Conlara. . . . . . . . . 316
Tucumán . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 261
Tafí del Valle . . . . . . . . . . . 266 MENDOZA & THE
Around Tafí del Valle . . . . 269 CENTRAL ANDES. . . 318
Santa María. . . . . . . . . . . . 269
Amaicha del Valle. . . . . . . 269 Mendoza . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 320
Cacheuta. . . . . . . . . . . . . . 336

ON THE ROAD

NIGEL HICKS/GETTY IMAGES ©
PHILIP LEE HARVEY/LONELY PLANET ©

SCANPTTIOELNMCOA,PTIONCAPTION` SCANPTMIOANRCTAÍNPTDIEONLOCASPTION
PB0U0E0NOS AIRES P63 AP0N0D0ES P378

Potrerillos . . . . . . . . . . . . . 337 BARILOCHE & THE PATAGONIA. . . . . . . 400
Villavicencio . . . . . . . . . . . 337 LAKE DISTRICT . . . . 356
Uspallata. . . . . . . . . . . . . . 337 Coastal Patagonia . . . . . 401
Los Penitentes . . . . . . . . . 338 Bariloche. . . . . . . . . . . . . . 358 Puerto Madryn. . . . . . . . . 401
Puente del Inca. . . . . . . . . 339 Parque Nacional Around Puerto Madryn. . . 409
Parque Provincial Nahuel Huapi . . . . . . . . . . 368 Coastal Río Negro . . . . . . 409
Aconcagua. . . . . . . . . . . . . 339 El Bolsón. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 371 Reserva Faunística
Las Cuevas & Around El Bolsón. . . . . . . . 375 Península Valdés . . . . . . . . 410
Cristo Redentor . . . . . . . . 340 Villa la Angostura. . . . . . . . 375 Trelew. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 414
Parque Provincial Villa Traful. . . . . . . . . . . . . . 377 Around Trelew. . . . . . . . . . . 418
Volcán Tupungato. . . . . . . . 341 San Martín de Gaiman. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 418
San Rafael. . . . . . . . . . . . . . 341 los Andes. . . . . . . . . . . . . . 378 Around Gaiman . . . . . . . . 420
Cañón del Atuel & Cerro Chapelco. . . . . . . . . 384 Área Natural Protegida
Valle Grande. . . . . . . . . . . 343 Parque Nacional Punta Tombo. . . . . . . . . . . 420
Malargüe. . . . . . . . . . . . . . 343 Lanín. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 385 Camarones . . . . . . . . . . . . 420
Around Malargüe. . . . . . . 345 Junín de los Andes. . . . . . 388 Cabo Dos Bahías . . . . . . . 424
Las Leñas. . . . . . . . . . . . . . 345 Aluminé. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 389 Comodoro Rivadavia. . . . 424
Ruta Nacional 40. . . . . . . 346 Villa Pehuenia. . . . . . . . . . 390 Puerto Deseado. . . . . . . . 427
San Juan . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 347 Caviahue . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 392 Monumento Natural
Around San Juan. . . . . . . 350 Copahue. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 392 Bosques Petrificados . . . 428
Valle de Calingasta. . . . . .350 Chos Malal. . . . . . . . . . . . . 394 Puerto San Julián. . . . . . . 429
San José de Jáchal . . . . . 353 North along the Parque Nacional
Rodeo. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 353 Ruta Nacional 40. . . . . . . 394 Monte León. . . . . . . . . . . . 430
San Agustín de Zapala. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 395 Río Gallegos . . . . . . . . . . . . 431
Valle Fértil. . . . . . . . . . . . . 354 Parque Nacional
Parque Provincial Laguna Blanca . . . . . . . . . 396 Inland Patagonia . . . . . 434
Ischigualasto. . . . . . . . . . . 355 Neuquén . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 396 Esquel. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 434
Trevelin. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 439
Parque Nacional
Los Alerces . . . . . . . . . . . . 440

Contents

UNDERSTAND

RICHARD MCMANUS/GETTY IMAGES © TIERRA DEL FUEGO.492 Argentina
Today . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 576
RCAESPETRIOVNACFAAPUTNIOÍSNTCICAAPTION Ushuaia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 493 History. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 578
P0EN00ÍNSULA VALDÉS P410 Parque Nacional Life in Argentina. . . . . . . 588
Tierra del Fuego. . . . . . . . 508 The Sounds of
Gobernador Costa. . . . . . 443 Tolhuin & Lago Fagnano. . . 511 Argentina. . . . . . . . . . . . . 590
Río Mayo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 443 Río Grande. . . . . . . . . . . . . 512 Literature & Cinema . . . 592
Perito Moreno. . . . . . . . . . 443 Puerto Williams (Chile). . . . 513 The Natural World . . . . . 594
Los Antiguos. . . . . . . . . . . 445
Cueva de las Manos. . . . . 446 URUGUAY. . . . . . . . . . 517 SURVIVAL
Bajo Caracoles. . . . . . . . . 447 GUIDE
Parque Nacional Montevideo. . . . . . . . . . 520
Perito Moreno. . . . . . . . . . 447 Directory A–Z. . . . . . . . . 602
Gobernador Gregores. . . 448 Western Uruguay. . . . . . 537 Transportation . . . . . . . . 614
El Chaltén . . . . . . . . . . . . . 449 Colonia del Language. . . . . . . . . . . . . 620
Parque Nacional Sacramento. . . . . . . . . . . . 537 Index. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 629
Los Glaciares (North). . . 455 Carmelo. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 543 Map Legend. . . . . . . . . . . 638
El Calafate. . . . . . . . . . . . . 458 Mercedes. . . . . . . . . . . . . . 545
Around El Calafate. . . . . . 466 Paysandú. . . . . . . . . . . . . . 547
Parque Nacional Salto. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 548
Los Glaciares (South). . . 466 Tacuarembó . . . . . . . . . . . 550
Valle Edén . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 551
Chilean Patagonia . . . . . 471
Punta Arenas . . . . . . . . . . . 471 Eastern Uruguay. . . . . . . 552
Monumento Natural Piriápolis. . . . . . . . . . . . . . 552
Los Pingüinos. . . . . . . . . . . 477 Punta del Este. . . . . . . . . . 553
Parque Nacional La Paloma. . . . . . . . . . . . . . 561
Pali Aike. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 477 La Pedrera. . . . . . . . . . . . . 562
Puerto Natales. . . . . . . . . . 477 Cabo Polonio. . . . . . . . . . . 563
Parque Nacional Punta del Diablo. . . . . . . . 565
Bernardo O’Higgins. . . . . 482 Parque Nacional
Parque Nacional Santa Teresa. . . . . . . . . . . 567
Torres del Paine. . . . . . . . 483
SPECIAL FEATURES
Falkland Islands/
Islas Malvinas. . . . . . . . 490 Going to a The Legend of Che . . . . 306
Fútbol Game . . . . . . . . . . . 66 Mendoza’s Wine . . . . . . . 328
The Tango . . . . . . . . . . . . 100 La Ruta de los
Staying on an Siete Lagos. . . . . . . . . . . 383
Estancia. . . . . . . . . . . . . . 131 Patagonian Wildlife . . . . 422
The Iguazú Falls. . . . . . . 212 Extreme Patagonia. . . . . 469
Quebrada de Uruguay’s Beaches. . . . . 554
Humahuaca . . . . . . . . . . 256

6 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

Welcome to
Argentina

It’s apparent why Argentina has long
held travelers in awe: tango, beef,

gauchos, fútbol, Patagonia, the Andes.
The classics alone make a formidable

wanderlust cocktail.

City Life Food & Drink

Arriving in Buenos Aires is like jumping Satisfying that carnal craving for juicy
aboard a moving train. Outside the taxi steaks isn’t hard to do in the land that has
window, a blurred mosaic of a modern perfected grilling wonderfully flavorful
metropolis whizzes by, and then the street sides of beef. Parrillas (steak restaurants)
life appears – the cafes, the purple jaca- are everywhere and will offer up any cut
randa flowers draped over the sidewalks (in you can imagine. And if you’re a fan of pizza
spring), and porteños (residents of Buenos and pasta, these Italian staples are ubiqui-
Aires) in stylish clothing, walking purpose- tous as well. But there’s more – in Buenos
fully past handsome early-20th-century Aires you can experience a huge variety of
stone facades. And it’s not just Buenos Aires ethnic cuisine, from Southeast Asian and
that’s a stunner – Córdoba, Salta, Mendoza Middle Eastern to Scandinavian. Down
and Bariloche each have their unique per- it all with that famous Argentine wine,
sonalities and unforgettable attractions. and you’ll be struggling to maintain your
waistline.
Natural Wonders
Argentine Culture
From mighty Iguazú Falls in the sub­tropical
north to the thunderous, crackling advance Tango is possibly Argentina’s greatest
of Glaciar Perito Moreno in the south, Argen­ contribution to the outside world, a steamy
tina is a vast natural wonderland. The coun- dance that’s been described as ‘making love
try boasts rich wetlands, mountains painted in the vertical position.’ And what about
in rustic colors – including some of the fútbol (soccer)? Argentines are passionately
Andes’ highest peaks, deserts dotted with devoted to this sport and, if you’re a fan, ex-
cacti, massive ice fields and arid steppes, periencing a live match should definitely be
cool lichen-clad Valdivian forests, Andean on your itinerary. Add a distinctive Argen-
salt flats and a spectacular Lake District. It tine take on literature, cinema, music and
also offers an abundance of wildlife, includ- arts, and you have a rich, edgy culture –
ing penguins, flamingos, capy­baras and part Latin American and part European –
more. All are stunning sights and adven- that you can’t help but fall in love with.
tures just waiting to be experienced.

LAURIE NOBLE / GETTY IMAGES © 7

Why I Love Argentina

By Sandra Bao, Writer
Argentina is my country – this is where I was born and raised, where I lived until my family
emigrated to the USA. It’s changed drastically since I was a little girl, but what I love most
about Argentina is its people. They’ve nurtured their creativity, adaptability and persever-
ance, through good and very bad times, all while maintaining their traditions, humor and
pride. I’m always happy to go back to this amazing place and its inhabitants – it’s been a real
privilege.
For more about our writers, see page 639

Above: Tango dancers, El Caminito (p65), Buenos Aires

Argentina & Uruguay e 0 500 km
0 250 miles

69ºW 59ºW 54ºW
64ºW R
BOLIVIA
araná
Quebrada de Humahuaca La Quiaca Río Apa Iguazú Falls
Drive through spectacular, Pocitos íoaWwPietsnoemssetwheatwerofralldls's(mp1o9s6t)
colorful rockscapes (p250)
Embarcación
23ºS Tropic of Capricorn Río ParaguayPARAGUAY
Antofagasta Pilcom ayo
o
Jujuy erRío BParque Nacional Embalse
Salta Río Río Pilcomayo Etaipú

Cafayate Tucumán Río Salado
Cordillera de los Andes QHuuembraahduaadcae CaVlcahlaleqsúies
Salta Sierra de Còrdoba mej Clorinda ASUNCIÓN Foz do Iguaçu BRAZIL
Explore Argentina's most
Roque Parque Ciudad del Este Parque
colonial city (p219) Sáenz Nacional Puerto Iguazú Nacional
Peña Chaco
Formosa

CHILE Tafí del Santiago Encarnación Iguazú
Valle del Estero
Resistencia Corrientes Uruguay
Esteros
28ºS Córdoba Catamarca Posadas Reserva Provincial Esteros
Thump to this beautiful city's Salinas de Río del Iberá
Ambargasta del Iberá Birds and nature galore (p177)
nightlife beats (p287) Chilecito Reconquista

La Rioja Laguna Río Pananá Paso de Reserva Provincial
Salinas de Mar los Libres Esteros del Iberá
Grandes
Parque Provincial Chiquita
Ischigualasto
Cerro Aconcagua
Climb South America's Cerro San Agustín Córdoba
highest peak (p340) Mercedario de Valle Fértil Concordia Salto

(6770m) San Juan Santa Fe Paraná Parque Nacional
Cerro El Palmar
Parque Provincial Aconcagua Buenos Aires
PACIFIC Aconcagua (6962m) Gualeguaychú Paysandú Stroll BA's cosmopolitan
OCEAN Mendoza Carolina Mercedes URUGUAY
Valparaíso streets (p52)
Rosario
SANTIAGO Cerro San Luis Mercedes
33ºS Tupungato San San Antonio Tigre Colonia del Chuy 33ºS
(6650m) Rafael de Areco Sacramento
Mendoza Las MONTEVIDEO
Taste Argentina's finest Leñas BUENOS Río de la P Punta
boutique wines (p321) Malargüe AIRES La del Este
Plata lata

Ski somLaesoLf Aeñrgaesntina's Chos R Colorado Santa Rosa La Pampa Mar del Plata
driest powder (p345) Malal Parque Sierra de Sun worship at this beach
Nacional la Ventana
resort (p138)
Lihué Calel

Mar del Plata

Parque Zapala Bahía Blanca Necochea 38ºS
38ºS Nacional 43ºS
Lanín Neuquén Río Península Valdés 48ºS
San Martín San Antonio Negro Spy on elephant seals, 53ºS
de los Andes whales and penguins (p410)
Parque Nacional Oeste
Nahuel Haupi
Viedma

Bariloche Bariloche Península
Ski, hike and eat chocolate El Bolsón
(p358) Puerto Puerto Valdés
Montt Esquel
Madryn Reserva Faunística
Parque Nacional
Lago Puelo Trelew Península Valdés
69ºW
RíoChubut Rawson

74ºWParque Reserva Provincial
Los Alerces
43ºS 79ºW Nacional Lago Punta Tombo

84ºW Colhué
Huapi
Comodoro
Lago Rivadavia ATLANTIC
Musters OCEAN
Caleta Olivia
Perito
El Chaltén Moreno Fitz Roy ELEVATION

Hike the famous Fitz Roy Puerto 5000m
Range (p449) Deseado 4000m
Gobernador
Gregores

Parque Nacional Puerto 3000m
Los Glaciares San Julián 2000m
48ºS 1000m
El Chaltén 600m
200m
Santa Cruz FALKLAND ISLANDS 0
(Islas Malvinas)
El Calafate

Glaciar Perito Moreno Parque Puerto Río Gallegos Stanley
See (and hear!) this glacier Nacional Natales
Ushuaia
calving (p466) Torres del Isla Grande de Travel to the world's
Paine Tierra del Fuego southernmost city (p493)
53ºS
Punta Porvenir Río Grande Isla de los Estados
Arenas (Staten Island)

Parque Nacional
Tierra del Fuego

Ushuaia

Beagle Cabo de Hornos
Channel (Cape Horn)

64ºW
59ºW
54ºW
49ºW
44ºW
39ºW

10 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

Argentina’s

Top 20

Glaciar Perito Moreno Iguazú Falls

1 As glaciers go, Perito Moreno (p466) is 2 The peaceful Río Iguazú, flowing through
one of the most dynamic and accessible the jungle between Argentina and Brazil,
on the planet. But what makes it exceptional plunges suddenly over a basalt cliff in a spec-
is its constant advance – up to 2m per day. Its tacular display of sound and fury that is truly
slow but constant motion creates incredible one of the planet’s most awe-inspiring sights.
suspense, as building-sized icebergs calve Iguazú Falls (p196) are a primal experience
from the face and spectacularly crash into Lago for the senses: the roar, the spray and the
Argentino. You can get very close to the action sheer volume of water will live forever in your
via an extended network of steel catwalks and memory. But it’s not just the waterfalls – the
platforms. A typical way to cap the day is with a jungly national parks that contain them offer a
huge steak dinner back in El Calafate. romantic backdrop and fine wildlife-watching
opportunities.

1

HAGENMULLER JEAN-FRANCOIS / HEMIS.FR / GETTY IMAGES ©

11
2

MICHELE FALZONE / GETTY IMAGES ©

12 PLAN YOUR TRIP Argentina’s Top 20 ANDREW PEACOCK / GETTY IMAGES ©
3

4

ANALIA VALERIA URANI / SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Wine Tasting around Buenos Aires’ Food Scene
Mendoza
4 Believe the hype: Argentine beef is
3 With so much fantastic wine (p328) some of the best in the world. Eat,
on offer, it’s tempting just to pull up drink and be merry at one of the country’s
a bar stool and work your way through a thousands of parrillas (steak restaurants),
list – but getting out there and seeing how where a leisurely meal can include waiters
the grapes are grown and processed is pouring malbec and serving up slabs of
almost as enjoyable as sampling the tasty steaks. But there’s so much more in
finished product. The best news is that Buenos Aires (p86) – closed-door restau-
wine tasting in Argentina isn’t just for the rants, pop-up restaurants and molecular
wine snobs – there’s a tour to meet every gastronomy have all become buzz­words
budget, from DIY bike tours for back­ in Argentina’s capital city, where you can
packers to tasting-and-accommodation also find nearly any kind of exotic ethnic
packages at exclusive wineries. cuisine. Above: A parrillada (mixed grill)

FANDRADE / GETTY IMAGES © 13 PLAN YOUR TRIP Argentina’s Top 20
5

6

GARETH MCCORMACK / GETTY IMAGES ©

Cementerio de la Recoleta Hiking the Fitz Roy Range

5 A veritable city of the dead, Buenos 6 With rugged wilderness and shark-
Aires’ top tourist attraction (p69) is tooth summits, the Fitz Roy Range
not to be missed. Lined up along small (p455) is the trekking capital of Argentina.
‘streets’ are hundreds of old crypts, each Experienced mountain climbers may
uniquely carved from marble, granite and suffer on its windswept and tough, world-
concrete, and decorated with stained class routes, but the beautiful hiking trails
glass, stone angels and religious icons. are surprisingly easy and accessible, and
Small plants and trees grow in fissures, park rangers help orient every traveler
while feral cats slink between tombs, some who comes into the area. Once on the trail,
of which lie in various stages of decay. It’s the most stunning views are just a day hike
a photogenic wonderland, and if there’s from town. Not bad for those who want to
a strange beauty in death you’ll find it in reward themselves with a craft beer at El
spades here. Chaltén’s nearby La Cervecería brewpub.

14

PL A N YO U R TRI P A r g e n t i n a’ s T o p 2 0 Ruta de los Siete Lagos Ushuaia, the End
of the Earth
7 A journey of extraordinary beauty,
the Ruta de los Siete Lagos (Seven 8 Shimmed between the Beagle Channel
Lakes Route; p383) is a not-to-be-missed and the snow-capped Martial Range,
road trip. Your vehicular adventure winds this bustling port is the final scrap of civili-
through lush forests, past waterfalls and zation seen by Antarctica-bound boats. But
dramatic mountain scenery, and skirts the more than the end of the earth, Ushuaia
various crystal-blue lakes that give it its (p493) is a crossroads for big commerce
name. Stop for a picnic and go swimming, and adventure. Snow sports brighten the
fishing and camping. You can also bus it in frozen winters and long summer days mean
a couple of hours or bike it in a few days. hiking and biking until the wee hours. Hap-
Experiencing this gorgeous route is a deci- pening restaurants, boisterous bars and
sion you won’t regret. welcoming B&Bs mean you’ll want to tuck
Below: Villa la Angostura (p375), on the shore of in and call this port home for a few days.
Lago Nahuel Huapi

7

SUNSINGER / SHUTTERSTOCK ©

8

ADAM BURTON / GETTY IMAGES ©

DANITA DELIMONT / GETTY IMAGES © CHRISTIAN ASLUND / GETTY IMAGES © 15PL A N YO U R TRI P A r g e n t i n a’ s T o p 2 0
9 10

11

VERONICA GARBUTT / GETTY IMAGES ©

Colonial Salta Skiing at Las San Telmo
Leñas
9 Argentina’s northwest 11 One of Buenos
holds its most vener- 10 Hitting the slopes Aires’ most charm-
able colonial settlements, at Las Leñas ing and interesting neigh-
and none is more lovely (p345) isn’t just about borhoods is San Telmo
than Salta (p219). This making the scene, al- (p63), lined with cobble­
beautiful city is set in a though there is that; this stone streets, colonial
fertile valley that acts as a mountain has the most buildings and a classic
gateway to the impressive varied terrain, the most atmosphere that will
Andean cordillera not far days of powder per year transport you back to the
beyond. Postcard-pretty and some of the fastest mid-19th century. Be sure
churches, a sociable plaza and most modern lift to take in the Sunday feria
and a wealth of noble build- equipment in the country. (street fair), where dozens
ings give it a laid-back Splash out for some on- of booths sell handicrafts,
historical ambience that mountain accommoda- antiques and knickknacks,
endears it to all who visit. tions or choose from a while buskers perform for
Add in great museums, a variety of more reason- loose change. Tango is big
lively folkloric music scene, ably priced options just here, and you can watch a
some of the country’s most down the road. Whatever fancy, spectacular show
appealing lodging options you do, if you’re a snow or catch a casual street
and a fistful of attractions bunny and you’re here in performance – both will
within easy reach: that’s season, mark this one on wow you with amazing
one impressive place. your itinerary in big red feats of athleticism.
Above: Iglesia San Francisco letters. Above: Feria de San Telmo
(p219) (p108)

16 13
12 14

PLAN YOUR TRIP Argentina’s Top 20 MARCOS RADICELLA / GETTY IMAGES © ROBERTO BOWYER / GETTY IMAGES ©

SUNSINGER / SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Bariloche Nightlife in Gaucho Culture
Córdoba
12 A gorgeous 14 One of Argentina’s
lakeside setting, 13 Boasting seven most enduring
adjacent to one of the universities (and icons is the intrepid
country’s more spectacu- counting) it’s no surprise gaucho, who came to life
lar and accessible national that Argentina’s second after Spaniards let loose
parks, makes Bariloche city (p287) is one of the their cattle on the grassy
(p358) a winning destina- best places for night owls pampas so many centu-
tion year-round. During in the entire country. The ries ago. These nomadic
winter you can strap on the wide variety of cute side- cowboys lived by taming
skis and take in the mag- walk bars, thumping mega- wild horses (also left by
nificent panoramas from discos and live-music the Spaniards), hunting
on top of Cerro Catedral. venues (all more or less cows and drinking mate
Once the snow melts, get within walking distance) (a bitter ritual tea). Today
your hiking boots out and could keep you occupied the best place to experi-
hit the trails in the Parque for months. While you’re ence gaucho culture is
Nacional Nahuel Huapi, in town, try to catch a during November’s Día
where a well-organized cuarteto show – popular de la Tradición (p28) in
network of mountain all over the country, this San Anton­ io de Areco.
refuges means you can music style was invented Otherwise, check out folk-
keep walking as long as in Córdoba and all the best loric shows at estancias
your legs will take it. acts regularly play here. (ranches) or at the Feria
Above left: Hotel Llao Llao de Mataderos in Buenos
(p368) Aires. Above: Día de la Tradición,
San Antonio de Areco (p123)

17

Quebrada de Humahuaca Reserva Faunística PLAN YOUR TRIP Argentina’s Top 20
Península Valdés
15 You’re a long way from Buenos
Aires up here in Argentina’s north- 16 Once a dusty peninsula with remote
western corner, and it feels a whole world sheep ranches, today Península
away. This spectacular valley (p250) of Valdés (p410) is a hub for some of the
scoured rock in Jujuy province impresses best wildlife-watching on the continent.
visually with its tortured formations and The main attraction is seeing endangered
artist’s palette of mineral colors, but southern right whales up close. But the
it is also of great cultural interest. The cast of wild characters also includes killer
Quebrada’s settlements are traditional whales (orcas), Magellanic penguins, sea
and indigen­ous in character, with typical lions, elephant seals, rheas, guanaco and
Andean dishes supplanting steaks on the numerous sea birds. There’s a ton to be
restaurant menus, and llamas, not herds of seen on shore, but diving and kayak tours
cattle, grazing the sparse highland grass. take you even deeper into the ambience.
Below: Purmamarca (p251) Bottom: Magellanic penguins, Península Valdés

15

STEFANO OPPO / GETTY IMAGES ©

16

INSIGHTS / UIG / GETTY IMAGES ©

18 18
17

MARIANA SILVIA ELIANO / COVER / GETTY IMAGES ©
CAROL POLICH PHOTO WORKSHOPS / GETTY IMAGES ©

PLAN YOUR TRIP Argentina’s Top 20

Jesuit Missions Reserva Provincial Cerro Aconcagua
Esteros del Iberá
17 The Jesuits brought 19 The tallest peak in
some fine things to 18 These protected the western hemi-
Argentina – wine making wetlands (p177) sphere, Cerro Aconcagua
and universities to name offer astonishing wildlife- (p339) is an awe-inspiring
just two. They also con- watching opportunities sight, even if you’re not
structed some gorgeous around shallow vegetation- planning on climbing it.
missions. Many are wonder­ rich lagoons. Head out People come from all over
fully preserved, listed as in a boat and you’ll spot the world to do so, though
Unesco World Heritage numerous alligators, exotic it’s not a task to be taken
sites and open to the public, bird species, monkeys, lightly. If you can take
often featuring fascinating swamp deer, and one of the time to train and ac-
museums. In appropri­ately the world’s cutest rodents, climatize, and you’re good
named Misiones province, the capybara – but no, you enough to reach the top,
San Ignacio Miní (p192) can’t take one home. It’s you’ll be granted bragging
is the most impressive of an out-of-the-way location, rights as one of a select
the mission ruins. Nearby and a wealth of stylish, group who have touched
Santa Ana and Loreto are comfortable lodges make the ‘roof of the Americas.’
also very atmospheric. And this a top spot to book Otherwise, just get a peek
if you can’t get enough, day yourself in for a few days of at it from the nearest van-
trip to nearby Paraguay for relaxation amid an abun- tage point and save your
further amazing remnants dance of flora and fauna. energy for wine tasting in
of this in­triguing social Above right: Capybara (p598) Mendoza.
project. Above: San Ignacio Miní

19
19

CAMELIA VARSESCU / SHUTTERSTOCK © PLAN YOUR TRIP Argentina’s Top 20

Mar del Plata 20

20 Argentina’s pre- SILVINA PARMA / GETTY IMAGES ©
mier beach resort
(p138) is a heaving zoo in
summer but that’s what
makes it such fun. Com-
pete with porteños (Buenos
Aires residents) for a patch
of open sand, then lie back
and enjoy watching thou-
sands of near-naked bodies
worship the sun, play sand
games or splash around in
the surf. Outdoor activities
such as surfing, fishing,
horseback riding and even
skydiving are also on deck.
When the sun goes down
it’s time for steak or sea-
food dinners, followed by
late-night entertainment
from theater to nightclubs.
Right: Cabo Corrientes and Playa
Varese (p142)

20 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

Need to Know

For more information, see Survival Guide (p601)

Currency When to Go Iguazú Falls
GO Year-round
Argentine peso (AR$) #
#
Language GOSAaplrt–aOct

Spanish Buenos Aires
# GO Year-round
Visas
# Desert, arid climate
Generally not required Dry, arid climate
for stays of up to 90 GOBYaerailro-crohuend Warm to hot summers, mild winters
days. Americans, Aus- Warm to hot summers, cold winters
tralians and Canadians Cold, Polar climate
must pay a ‘reciprocity
fee’ before arriving. Ushuaia
GO Oct–Mar#
Money
High Season Shoulder (Sep– Low Season
ATMs widely available. (Nov–Feb) Nov & Mar–May) (Jun–Aug)
Credit cards accepted at
most midrange to top- ¨¨Patagonia is best ¨¨Temperature-wise ¨¨Good time to visit
end hotels, and at some (and most expensive) the best times to visit the North.
restaurants and shops. December to Buenos Aires. ¨¨Many services
February. ¨¨The Lake District close at beach
Cell Phones ¨¨Crowds throng is pleasant; leaves resorts, and
to the beaches are spectacular in mountain passes can
Local SIM cards (and from late December March. be blocked by snow.
top-up credits) are through January. ¨¨The Mendoza ¨¨July is a winter
cheap and widely region has its grape vacation month, so
available, and can be harvests and wine things can get busy
used on unlocked GSM festival. at ski destinations.
850-/1900-compatible
phones.

Time

Argentina Standard
Time (GMT/UTC minus
three hours).

21

Useful Websites Rates on the Rise Bars 8pm or 9pm–4am or 6am PL A N YO U R TRI P N eed to K no w
nightly (downtown, some open
Argentina Independent (www. Lonely Planet aims to give its and close earlier)
argentinaindependent.com) readers as precise an idea as Cafes 6am–midnight or much
Current affairs and culture, plus possible of what things cost. later; open daily
much more. Rather than slapping hotels or Restaurants noon–3:30pm and
restaurants into vague budget 8pm–midnight or 1am (later on
Buenos Aires Herald (www. categories, we publish the weekends)
buenosairesherald.com) An in- actual rates and prices that Shops 9am or 10am–8pm or
ternational view of the country. businesses quote to us during 9pm Monday to Saturday
research. The problem is that
Ruta 0 (www.ruta0.com) Handy Argentina’s inflation has been Arriving in
driving tips, like distance/ running at near 30%. But we’ve Argentina
duration between cities, gas found that readers prefer to
consumption, road conditions have real numbers in their Aeropuerto Internacional Min-
and tariffs. hands and do compensatory istro Pistarini (‘Ezeiza’; Buenos
calculations themselves. Aires) Shuttle buses travel
Lonely Planet (lonelyplanet. frequently to downtown BA in
com/argentina) Destination Argentina remains a decent- 40 to 60 minutes; local buses
info, hotel bookings, forums value destination, but don’t take two hours. Use official taxi
and more. expect our quoted prices to nec- services only; avoid touts.
essarily reflect your own experi- Aeroparque Jorge Newbery
Important ence. Our advice: call or check a (‘Aeroparque’, airport with
Numbers few hotel or tour-operator web- mostly domestic flights; Buenos
sites before budgeting for your Aires) Shuttle buses travel
Argentina %54 trip, just to make sure you’re frequently to downtown BA in 10
country code savvy about current rates. to 15 minutes; or take local bus
%110 33 or 45. Taxis available.
Directory Daily Costs
assistance %00 Getting Around
Budget: Less than
International %11-4312- US$60 Air Argentina is a huge country,
access code 2232 ¨¨Dorm bed: US$15–20 so flights are good for saving
¨¨Double room in good, time. Delays do happen
National %101; %911 budget hotel: US$50 occasionally.
Tourist in some large ¨¨Cheap meal: less than US$11 Bus Generally the best way to
Information cities get around Argentina; they’re
(in BA) Midrange: US$60–120 fast, frequent, comfortable,
¨¨Three-star hotel: US$80–150 reasonably priced and cover the
Police ¨¨Average main dish: US$11–16 country extensively.
¨¨Four-hour bus ticket: US$30 Car Renting a car is useful (but
Exchange Rates expensive) for those who want
Top End: More than the most travel independence
Aus- A$1 AR$10.88 US$120 in remote regions such as
tralia ¨¨Five-star hotel: US$150+ Patagonia.
Brazil R$1 AR$4.02 ¨¨Fine main dish: over US$16 Train A few train lines can be
Canada C$1 AR$11.11 ¨¨Taxi trip across town: US$10 useful for travelers, but gener-
Chile CH$100 AR$2.11 ally this is not the most efficient
Euro €1 AR$16.48 Opening Hours method of transportation.
Japan ¥100 AR$13.40
NZ NZ$1 AR$9.82 There are always exceptions, For much more on
UK UK£1 AR$20.39 but the following are general getting around,
Uruguay UR$1 AR$0.46 opening hours. Note that some see p616
USA US$1 AR$14.44 towns may take an afternoon
siesta break.
For current exchange rates see Banks 8am–3pm or 4pm
www.xe.com Monday to Friday; some open to
1pm Saturday

22 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

What’s New

Centro Cultural Kirchner Salta’s Paseo de la Familia
Buenos Aires’ newest cultural center is An enjoyable local eating scene can be
likely South America’s biggest, boasting found on this block of Catamarca, between
dozens of exhibition halls, event spaces, San Luis and La Rioja. Street-food stalls
museums and auditoriums. (p57) dole out grilled chicken, pizza, tamales and
lomitos (steak sandwiches) under a long
Espacio Memoria y Derechos awning, from breakfast to mid-afternoon.
Humanos
More popularly known as ESMA, this El Shincal
ex-naval campus played a key role dur- These excellent Inca ruins, northwest of
ing Argentina’s Dirty War – it was once a Catamarca, have been given a major face-
large detainment and torture center, now lift and now include a good introductory
converted into a memorial museum to help museum. (p276)
prevent such unimaginable occurrences
from happening again. (p74) Hiking in Cachi
A new hike through private lands, south-
Buenos Aires’ Speakeasies west of Salta, is now offered by Urkupiña,
This bar trend is picking up speed in and encompasses a scenic descent
Argentina’s capital – gorgeous, atmos- through the Valle Encantado and Cuesta
pheric and ‘secret’ bars that often require a del Obispo – with guaranteed condor-­
special code to get in. spotting. (p234)

Burgers, Beer and Coffee Reintroductions of Wildlife,
Small hamburger joints are a Buenos Aries Esteros del Iberá
mania, popping up in various neighbor- The late ecological philanthropist Doug
hoods and offering a few gourmet varieties Tompkins and his wife Kristine success-
of the popular American treat. Microb­ rew fully reintroduced the giant anteater to
bars and modern, house-roastery coffee the Esteros del Iberá area; current projects
shops are another developing craze. involve saving pampa deer, collared pec-
cary, macaws and even jaguar. (p177)
El Pedral
This new private nature reserve on a Paseo Superior, Iguazú Falls
coastal estancia outside Puerto Madryn This walkway extension in Parque Na-
highlights Magellanic penguins, which are cional Iguazú leads along the top of the
flocking here and offering a great wildlife waterfalls on the Argentine side, offering
experience for travelers. (p409) up-close views of one of park’s the biggest
cascades, Salto San Martín. (p203)
Piattelli
A major project just outside Cafayate, this For more recommendations and
beautiful new winery is a state-of-the-art reviews, see lonelyplanet.com/
boutique affair with good tasting sessions argentina
and an excellent restaurant, offering lunch
with picturesque vistas. (p240)

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 23

If You Like…

Cities between your toes. What Bariloche Set on the shores of
says ‘vacation’ more than a Lago Nahuel Huapi, Bariloche is
Gourmet restaurants, day at the beach? Whether surrounded by snowy peaks that
world-class museums, fine you’re looking for a party, beckon climbers. (p358)
shopping, cutting-edge adventure sports or isola- El Bolsón Drawing in hippies
music and rocking nightlife tion, Argentina has it. like patchouli, this laid-back
all contribute toward satis- Mar del Plata Popular with Ar- town offers nearby hikes to
fying your needed dose of gentina’s middle class, ‘Mardel’ forests, waterfalls and scenic
big-city culture. turns into the country’s biggest ridges. (p371)
Buenos Aires The mother of summertime party. (p138) El Chaltén Argentina’s ground
all Argentine cities. Plan to Necochea Miles of beach­ zero for premier hiking, boasting
spend several days exploring combing, decent surf breakers gorgeous glaciers, pristine lakes
the world-class offerings of and even a pine forest to and unparalleled mountain
this unique and astounding explore. (p146) landscapes. (p449)
metropolis. (p52) Pinamar Very popular destina- Mendoza Mountaineers flock
Córdoba From Jesuit ruins to art tion with variety nearby, from here to summit Cerro Aconca-
to cuarteto music (Córdoba’s affordable neighborhoods to one gua, South America’s highest
claim to fame), you’ll experience of Argentina’s most exclusive peak. (p320)
it all in this historic city. (p287) beach resorts, Cariló. (p135) Parque Nacional Torres
Salta Argentina’s most colonial Puerto Madryn Whether you del Paine This stupendous
city offers plenty of culture, from like windsurfing, whale watching national park is in Chile, but very
exceptional museums to famous or diving, Puerto Madryn caters close to the Argentine border,
peñas (folk music clubs) where to your desires. (p401) and offers some of the world’s
you can experience authentic Punta del Este Sure, it’s in best hiking. (p483)
folk music. (p219) Uruguay, but in summer this
Bariloche Ski, hike or go white- famous beach is full of wealthy Food
water rafting during the day, then Argentines, along with celebrities
munch on chocolate and Patago- and models here to party. (p553) Argentina is known for its
nian lamb at night. (p358) steak, but in Buenos Aires
Ushuaia The world’s Hiking & ethnic restaurants abound,
southernm­ ost city, stunningly Mountaineering and around the country
located, is one to mark off your there are tasty regional
destination list. (p493) Lining Argentina’s western cuisines on offer.
edge like a bumpy spine, Buenos Aires The mother of
Beaches the Andes rise to nearly all Argentine cities. Plan to
7000m at Aconcagua’s peak spend several days exploring
Ah, those waves lapping and offer some of the con- the world-class offerings of
on the shore, salty wind on tinent’s finest hiking and this unique and astounding
your face and warm sand mountaineering. metropolis. (p86)

24 PLAN YOUR TRIP If You Like… ASHOK SINHA / GETTY IMAGES ©
Andean Northwest If you make
it up north, be sure to try locro
(a spicy stew of maize, beans,
beef, pork and sausage), humitas
(sweet tamales) and empanadas.
(p218)

Atlantic Coast Despite a huge
coastline, Argentina isn’t known
for its seafood. If you’re near the
sea, however, there are places to
sample fish, shrimp, oysters and
king crab. (p115)

Lake District The area around
Bariloche is known for its wild
boar, venison and trout, plus lo-
cally made chocolates. (p356)

Patagonia If you like lamb, you’ll
be in heaven in Patagonia. Here,
cordero is on every menu and
sheep ranches reign supreme.
(p400)

Memorable MATTHEW WILLIAMS-ELLIS / GETTY IMAGES ©
Landscapes
Top: Locro (corn and meat stew), tamales and empanadas
Argentina is made up of Bottom: Hiking in view of El Chaltén (p449), Patagonia
amazing landscapes, from
cactus-filled deserts and
lofty Andean peaks to deep-
blue lakes and verdant for-
ests. Throw in the wonders
of Iguazú Falls and Patago-
nia, and the word ‘unforget-
table’ comes to mind.

Andean Northwest Undulat-
ing desert landscapes are
punctuated by sentinel-like cacti,
alien rock formations and whole
mountainsides sporting palettes
of colors. (p218)

Iguazú Falls Spanning more
than 2.5km, these are the most
incredible waterfalls you will ever
see. (p196)

Lake District Argentina’s ‘little
Switzerland’ is just that –
snowdusted mountains looming
over lakes edged by forest.
(p356)

Andes Mountains Strung along
the whole of South America, this
spectacular mountain range is
stunningly beautiful. (p339)

25

Patagonia Not many regions in oenophile’s map. But Ar- Colonia del Sacramento An PLAN YOUR TRIP If You Like…
the world can evoke the mysti- gentina has other worthy easy boat ride away from BA lies
cism, wonderment and yearning varietals: try a fresh tor- Uruguay’s architectural gem of a
of Argentina’s last frontier – rontés, fruity bonarda or town, popularly called ‘Colonia.’
even if most of it is barren, windy earthy pinot noir. (p537)
nothingness. (p400) Mendoza Argentina’s power- Humahuaca Nestled in the
house wine region; produces the Quebrada de Humahuaca
Wildlife majority of the country’s grapes valley, this picturesque town is
and boasts countless wineries. the perfect base for exploring
Argentina’s environments (p321) the region’s other wonders.
translate into homes for San Juan Much less famous (p258)
many creatures, including than its Mendoza neighbor, but
flightless, grasslands-loving well known for its syrah and Adventure Sports
ñandú (rheas); majestic bonarda; it also boasts a winery
Andean condors and pu- located in a cave. (p347) The eighth-largest country
mas; and desert-dwelling Cafayate Just south of Salta, in the world, Argentina
camelids such as llamas, this lovely town – second only covers a lot of ground and
guanacos and vicuñas. to Mendoza for its quality wine offers plenty of adventur-
Península Valdés This bleak, production – is famed for the ous sports. Wild rivers,
oddly shaped peninsula attracts torrontés grape, among others. bare cliffs, snowy moun-
a plethora of wildlife, such as (p238) tains and high thermals
southern right whales, elephant Neuquén You don’t think of abound, so if you’re looking
seals, Magellanic penguins and wine when you think of this for some adrenaline, you’ve
orcas. (p410) unremarkable city in the Lake found it.
Reserva Provincial Esteros District, but there are a few Skiing and snowboarding The
del Iberá Rich and amazing great wineries nearby. (p396) best ski resorts are Mendoza’s
wetlands that harbor a wide Las Leñas & Los Penitentes,
range of interesting critters, Colonial Bariloche’s Cerro Catedral and
from comical capybaras, black Architecture San Martín de los Andes’ Cerro
caimans and howler monkeys, to Chapelco. (p36)
countless bird species. (p177) While Argentina isn’t Rafting and kayaking Hit the
Iguazú Falls These spectacular world-renowned for its pristine white waters rushing
falls are located in tropical unique buildings, its status through the mountains around
rainforest that is also home to as an ex-Spanish colony Mendoza, Bariloche and Esquel.
several kinds of monkey, lizard means there are some fine (p38)
and bird (including toucans). examples of colonial archi- Mountain biking The moun-
Also watch for coatis. (p196) tecture to be found, espe- tains around Bariloche are great
Ushuaia The southernmost city cially to the north. for adventurous trails, especially
in the world has a few colonies Córdoba Argentina’s second- at Cerro Catedral in summer.
of cormorants, sea lions and largest city boasts a beautiful (p38)
even penguins. It’s also the center dotted with dozens of Rock climbing Try Cerro
stepping-off point to Antarctica, colonial buildings. (p287) Catedral, the rocky walls around
a fantastic wildlife wonderland. Salta Don’t miss this city’s El Chaltén and the granite
(p493) most striking landmark, the boulders of Los Gigantes, 80km
colorful and intricate Iglesia San west of Córdoba. Mendoza
Wine Tasting Francisco. (p219) province also has some hot
Buenos Aires It’s mostly French- spots. (p35)
Malbec is the dark, robust, or Italian-styled buildings Paragliding Some of the
plum-flavored wine that downtown, but head south to loftiest spots are around
has solidly stamped the San Telmo for colonial buildings La Cumbre, Bariloche and
region of Mendoza on every and cobblestone streets. (p52) Tucumán. (p38)

26 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

Month by Month

TOP EVENTS 9000km all-terrain race 3 Fiesta Nacional
Carnaval, February (www.dakar.com) has now
been run in South America del Lúpulo
Fiesta Nacional del since 2009. Both amateurs El Bolsón’s hop festival
Lúpulo, February and professional racers honors the key ingredient
complete in this endurance for its artisanal craft beers.
Fiesta Nacional de la classic. Expect musical perfor-
Vendimia, March mances, activities, food and
plenty of beer tasting (of
Fiesta Nacional course). (p42)
del Chocolate,
March–April February March

Festival y Mundial de It’s still summertime, but Autumn is starting in
Tango, August crowds at the beaches and Argentina and tempera­
in Patagonia start to thin tures are more pleasant
January later in the month. The in Buenos Aires (though
Andean deserts and the it’s rainy). Prices fall at the
January is peak summer Iguazú region continue beaches and in Patagonia,
in Argentina. Porteños to be very hot, but it’s a but the weather remains
(residents of Buenos Aires) great time to visit the Lake warm. The north starts to
who can afford it leave District. Mendoza’s grape cool, and Iguazú Falls isn’t
their sweltering city and harvest begins. quite so hot and humid.
head to the beach resorts,
which are very crowded z Carnaval 6 Fiesta Nacional de
and expensive. It’s also high
season in Patagonia, so Though not as rockin’ as la Vendimia
expect top prices there, too. it is in Brazil, the celebra- Mendoza city’s week-long
tion is very rowdy in the Fiesta Nacional de la Vendi­
3 Festival Nacional northeast, especially in mia kicks off with parades,
Gualeguaychú (p183) and folklórico events and a royal
del Folklore Corrientes (p173). Montevi- coronation – all in honor of
Near the city of Córdoba, deo, the capital of Uruguay Mendoza’s wines. (p325)
the town of Cosquín hosts (p534), is another party
the National Festival of spot. Dates vary depending
Folk Music during the last on the city.
week of January. It’s the
country’s largest and best DÍA DE LA MEMORIA
known folklórico (folk mu-
sic) festival. (p299) Held on March 24 (the date a military coup took over
the Argentine government in 1976), this public holi-
z Dakar Rally day commemorates the victims of Argentina’s Dirty
War. Over seven years, tens of thousands of people
Previously called the ‘disappeared’ and were never heard from again.
Paris–Dakar Rally, this

GABRIEL ROSSI / LATINCONTENT / GETTY IMAGES © 27PLAN YOUR TRIP Month by Month

ANDRES A RUFFO / GETTY IMAGES © April

Top: Tango dancers, Festival y Mundial de Tango (p28) The forests of the Lake
Bottom: Fiesta Nacional de la Cerveza (Oktoberfest; p28) District start changing
from verdant green to fiery
reds, yellows and oranges.
Patagonia is clearing out
but you might get lucky
with decent hiking weather.
Buenos Aires heads into
low season, with still-
pleasant temperatures.

5 Festival Nacional

del Chocolate
Happening during Easter
week (dates vary annu-
ally), Bariloche’s chocolate
festival often highlights
a 9m tall chocolate egg,
cracked and consumed on
Easter Sunday. Look for the
world’s longest chocolate
bar, too.

3 Festival

Internacional de Cine
Independiente
Independent film buffs
shouldn’t miss this festival
in Buenos Aires, which
screens more than 100
films from Argentina and
Uruguay. (p76)

May

It’s late autumn and
Buenos Aires is cool as
the rains die back. It’s a
good time to visit Iguazú
Falls. The crowds also leave
Mendoza, though vineyards
are still a gorgeous red
from autumn leaves.

z Día de Virgen de

Luján
On May 8 thousands of
devout believers make a
65km pilgrimage to the
pampas town of Luján in
honor of the Virgin Mary.
Other pilgrimages take

28 6 Fiesta Nacional

place in early October, early
August, late September and
PLAN YOUR TRIP Month by Month on December 8. August de la Cerveza/

June Beach resort towns are Oktoberfest
dead and Patagonia is Join the swillers and oom-
Winter begins in Argentina. desolate and cold. Buenos pah bands at Argentina’s
Services at the beach Aires is still cool, but it’s a national beer festival,
great time to explore the Villa General Belgrano’s
theaters, museums and art Oktoberfest in the Central
galleries. Sierras. (p308)

resorts and in Patagonia z Festival y
dwindle, but it’s an ideal
Mundial de Tango
time to visit the deserts of World-class national and November
the Andean Northwest and international tango danc-
Iguazú Falls, which have ers perform throughout In Buenos Aires the
less rain and heat at this Buenos Aires during this weather is perfect and
time of year. two-week festival. It’s a the jacaranda trees show
great way to see some of the off their gorgeous purple
z Fiesta de la country’s best tango danc- blooms. It’s a good time
ers and musicians do their to visit the beach resorts
Noche Más Larga thing. (p76) and Patagonia, since the
Ushuaia celebrates the crowds and high prices are
longest night of the year September still a month or so away.
with about 10 days’ worth
of music and shows. (p500) Spring has sprung, and z Día de la
it’s peak season for whale
z Anniversary of watching (both southern Tradición
right whales and orcas) This festival salutes the
Carlos Gardel’s Death around Península Valdés. gaucho and is especially
On June 24, 1935, tango Polo season begins in significant in San Antonio
legend Carlos Gardel died Buenos Aires and the ski de Areco (p123), the most
in a plane crash in Colom- slopes wind down. classically gaucho of towns.
bia. Head to Buenos Aires’ However, it is also impor-
Chacarita cemetery to see 6 Vinos y Bodegas tant (and much less tour-
fans pay their respects at isty) in the mountain town
his grave and statue. of San José de Jáchal (p353).

July Lovers of the grape December
shouldn’t miss this huge
Ski season is at its peak, Buenos Aires event, which Summer begins and it’s
so make sure your wallet highlights vintages from excellent beach weather
is packed full and head bodegas (wineries) all over at the resorts (just before
off to the resorts around Argentina. (p76)

Bariloche, San Martín de the January peak). It’s

los Andes and Mendoza. also ideal weather for

Whale watching season October outdoor activities in the
starts heating up in the Lake District, and penguin
Península Valdés area. It’s a fine time to visit and hiking seasons start in
Buenos Aires and central Patagonia.
z Día de la Argentina. The season is
just starting in Patagonia, 3 Buenos Aires Jazz
Independencia but the crowds haven’t
Argentina’s Independence quite descended. Flowers This big jazz festival takes
Day is July 9, and celebra- are blooming in the Lake place over five days in
tions are especially strong District. venues all over the city in
in Tucumán, where the either November or Decem-
country’s independence ber, attracting tens of thou-
was first declared. sands of spectators.

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 29

Itineraries

San Antonio Colonia del
de Areco Sacramento
•# Tigre URUGUAY

É •#

BUENOS AIRES _#
É f# •# í o É
É R
É •#
de la _#

La Plata P l a MONTEVIDEO
a
t

É ATLANTIC
É OCEAN

É

•# •# Pinamar
Tandil •# Villa Gesell

É

Mar del •#
Plata

1WEEK A Week Around Buenos Aires

Seen Buenos Aires from top to bottom and wondering where else to visit? There’s plenty
of choice just outside Argentina’s capital, from small and alluring cobblestoned towns to
bigger, more exciting cities and bustling soft-sand beach resorts.

Tigre, with its hidden waterways and busy delta, is a popular porteño getaway for a
day or two. Take a day-trip to peaceful San Antonio de Areco, which has a history of
gaucho culture, or tidy La Plata, with its huge cathedral.

Perhaps you’d prefer a weekend at the beach? Pinamar and Villa Gesell make great
summer escapes, as does Mar del Plata, the biggest Argentine beach destination of
them all. Or head inland to Tandil for a couple of days; it’s a pretty town near scenic
hills and a large recreational reservoir.

And then there’s Uruguay, just a (relatively) short boat ride away. Colonia del Sacra-
mento is truly charming; filled with cobbled streets and atmospheric colonial buildings
it makes a great day trip. Or stay overnight in Montevideo; kind of like BA’s little sister,
it’s smaller and less frantic, but offers big-city delights such as a beautiful theater, an
historic downtown and eclectic architecture.

30 BOLIVIA PARAGUAY BRAZIL
CHILE
PA C I F I C #÷ Parque
OCEAN •#
Salta Nacional
Iguazú
ÉÉ É É
PLAN YOUR TRIP Itineraries ÉÉ •#CórdobaÉ

•# Mendoza URUGUAY

–# _#

BUENOS
AIRES

Bariloche •# Lake #÷#–Reserva Faunística
District #– Península Valdés

Parque Nacional ÷#•#El Chaltén ATLANTIC
Los Glaciares OCEAN

•#El Calafate FALKLAND ISLANDS
Parque Nacional #÷ (Islas Malvinas)
É
Torres del Paine

•#
Ushuaia

5WEEKS Unmissable Argentina

Argentina is a huge country – the world’s eighth largest – and experiencing all its high-
lights thoroughly will require at least a month, plus several airplane flights. If you want
to see both the north and south, plan your trip accordingly: Patagonia is best in January
and February, but this is when the northern deserts are at their hottest, so doing both
regions might be best in spring or fall. Tailor the following destinations to your tastes,
spending more or less time where you want to.

Take a few days to explore the wonders of Buenos Aires, with its fascinating neigh-
borhoods and big-city sights. If it’s the right season, fly south for wildlife viewing at
Reserva Faunística Península Valdés; the whales, elephant seals and penguins here
are especially popular. From here hop another flight to Ushuaia, the southernmost city
in the world and a prime jumping-off point to Antarctica (add another two weeks and
minimum US$5000 for this trip!).

Now you’ll head north to El Calafate, where the stunning Glaciar Perito Moreno of
Parque Nacional Los Glaciares is one of the world’s most spectacular sights. If you
love the outdoors, cross the border to Chile’s Parque Nacional Torres del Paine, an
awe-inspiring cluster of mountains boasting some of the earth’s most beautiful land-
scapes. Back in Argentina, next stop El Chaltén is another world-class climbing, trek-
king and camping destination.

Further up the Andes is Argentina’s Lake District, where a chocolate stop in Bari-
loche is a must. Gorgeous scenery, outdoor activities and lovely nearby towns can easily
add days to your itinerary. Your next destination is Mendoza, Argentina’s wine mecca,
which also offers great outdoor adventures and mind-blowing Andean scenery. A 10-hour
bus ride lands you in Córdoba, the country’s second-largest city, with amazing colonial
architecture and cutting-edge culture. From here go north to pretty Salta, where you
can explore colorful canyons, charming villages and desert panoramas.

Pack your bags again and head east to Parque Nacional Iguazú, where the world’s
most massive falls will astound you. Fly back to BA and party till your plane leaves.

PLAN YOUR TRIP Itineraries31

Top: Catedral de laKAVRAM / SHUTTERSTOCK ©
Plata (p118)

Bottom: Ruta 40
(p438)

EVGENIYA UVAROVA / SHUTTERSTOCK ©

32

BOLIVIA BRAZILCHILE
Quebrada de
Humahuaca •# ARGENTINA

Valles Calchaquíes •# Salta PARAGUAY ParNqauheuBNealarHciiluoonacpah÷#lie#÷•#•# VPLaialrlnaqínuTeraNfÉualcional
•#
•#
•# Cafayate

POACCEI AF INC CHILE •# Chilecito El Bolsón Puerto Madryn

É •# ÷#
É Reserva Faunística
•# Mendoza URUGUAY Península Valdés
PLAN YOUR TRIP Itineraries
Chos Malal •# É #–
É
Parque Nacional •# San Martín de los Andes ATLANTIC
Lanín OCEAN
÷#
Parque Nacional El Chaltén
Nahuel Huapi #÷ •#

•#Bariloche ATLANTIC Glaciar Perito El Calafate
Moreno
OCEAN •# FALKLAND ISLANDS
•# (Islas Malvinas)
É
A T÷#L A N T I C É
El Chaltén •# Cueva de las Manos
•# PTaorrqreuse dNealcOPioaCinnEaelA N #–
Glaciar Perito
Moreno •# FALKLAND ISLANDS
(Islas Malvinas)
PTaorrqruese dNealcPioaninael #÷ É POACCEI AF INC Ushuaia •# ÷# PTaierrqruaedNelacFiuoengaol

•#Ushuaia

3DA0YS Ruta Nacional 40 1DA8YS Patagonian
Passage

Argentina’s quintessential road trip, RN 40 Jaw-dropping Andean peaks, adorable
travels the length of the country. To do this mountain villages and exotic coastal wild-
adventure independently you’ll need to life – you’ll hit them all on this spectacular
rent a vehicle, ideally a 4WD as some sec- Patagonian adventure.
tions are still unpaved.
Begin in Ushuaia, where you can hop
Start near the amazingly colorful moun- on a boat to cruise around the Beagle
tainsides of Quebrada de Humahuaca Channel and hopefully see some penguins.
before hitting Salta and the wildly scenic Nearby Parque Nacional Tierra del
villages of Valles Calchaquíes. Pause at Fuego offers a few end-of-the-world hikes
lovely Cafayate and spectacularly located (literally).
Chilecito before the long trip down to
Mendoza to suss out the wine scene. Now fly to El Calafate and lay your
eyes on the spectacular and unforgettable
Continue south, stopping to check out Glaciar Perito Moreno. Outdoors lovers
the lagoons and hot springs around Chos will want to cross the border and trek in
Malal. Explore the lovely national parks of Chile’s famous Parque Nacional Torres
Lanín and Nahuel Huapi before hitting del Paine. Head north again to El Chal-
San Martín de los Andes and Bariloche, tén for world-class hiking and camping.
both of which offer fantastic outdoor op-
portunities. Further on, sidetrack to Cueva Fly to Bariloche, where you can hike (or
de las Manos for indigenous art. fish, or raft or bike) for days on end in the
gorgeous national parks of Nahuel Huapi
Stop at El Chaltén for top-drawer hik- and Lanín. If you have an extra day or two,
ing, then experience the Glaciar Perito take a day trip to the hippie enclave of El
Moreno. Cross the border to Chile and Bolsón or the cute village of Villa Traful.
explore stunning Parque Nacional
Torres del Paine before your last stop, Finally, stop in Puerto Madryn to see
Ushuaia; it’s as far south as any highway the whales, elephant seals and penguins at
in the world goes. Reserva Faunística Península Valdés –
just make sure it’s the right season.

33

Tilcara •#

É Quebrada de PARAGUAY
Valles É Humahuaca PLAN YOUR TRIP Itineraries
PA C I F I C Calchaquíes
OCEAN Cachi •# É É•#Salta #–

CHILE Molinos•# •#Quebrada É É #÷
•# de Cafayate NPaacriqouneal
Iguazú
Cafayate
BRAZIL
Tafí del Valle •# •#Tucumán
É
É Reserva Provincial #÷
Esteros del Iberá
É
Rodeo, Huaco ÷# TPaalraqmuepaNyaacional
& San José de É #÷ Parque Provincial
É •#
É
Jáchal Ischigualasto

Barreal •# •# San Juan •#
Córdoba

Cerro •# Mendoza URUGUAY
Aconcagua •# Mendoza Wine &
Adventures
É É Northern Adventure Loop

San Rafael •#
Cañón del Atuel•#

2WEEKS Mendoza Wine & 3WEEKS Northern
Adventures Adventure
Loop

Uncork your trip in beautiful Mendoza, Start in Córdoba, Argentina’s second-
located on the flanks of the Andes. Not largest city, to explore one of the country’s
only are there world-class vineyards sur- finest colonial centers.
rounding the city, but outdoor enthusiasts
will be in heaven. White-water rafting and Now head north to historic Tucumán
skiing are awesome in the area, and Cerro to see where Argentina declared its inde-
Aconcagua (the western hemisphere’s pendence from Spain. Over to the west is
highest peak) isn’t too far away. pretty Tafí del Valle; getting there via a
gorgeous mountain road is half the fun.
Now take a crack-of-dawn bus to San A bit further north is beautiful Cafayate,
Rafael, where you can rent a bike and ride the place to knock back some aromatic tor-
out to the city’s wineries, some of which rontés wine. Sober up and day-trip to the
specialize in sparkling wine. The area is epic Quebrada de Cafayate, then head to
also home to scenic Cañón del Atuel, a otherworldly Valles Calchaquíes and the
colorful mini Grand Canyon. Then back- adobe villages of Molinos and Cachi.
track up north to San Juan to try the
excellent syrah and regional whites. Rent The central plaza of Salta is one of
a car and head west to ethereal Barreal Argentina’s best preserved; this city is also
for rafting, mountaineering and land sail- a great base for stellar excursions into the
ing, then go further north to explore the Andes. Now journey north through the
remote and traditional villages of Rodeo, magnificently eroded valley of Quebrada
Huaco and San José de Jáchal. de Humahuaca, where you can overnight
in lively little Tilcara.
Finally, be sure to visit the amaz-
ing landscapes of Parque Provincial Return to Salta and fly to the incred-
Ischigualasto and Parque Nacional ible Parque Nacional Iguazú, home to
Talampaya; both boast spectacular rock unbelievable waterfalls. With time, head to
formations, along with petroglyphs and Reserva Provincial Esteros del Iberá,
dinosaur fossils. an amazing wetlands preserve full of capy-
baras, caimans and birds.

34 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

Plan Your Trip

Argentina
Outdoors

Mountaineering, hiking and skiing have long been Argentina’s clas-
sic outdoor pursuits, but these days locals and visitors alike are
doing much more. They’re kiteboarding in the Andes, paragliding in
the Central Sierras, diving along the Atlantic coast and pulling out
huge trout in the Lake District.

Best Bases for Thrill Hiking & Trekking
Seekers
Argentina is home to some superb stomp-
Bariloche ing. The Lake District is probably the
country’s most popular hiking destination,
One of Argentina’s premier outdoor cities, with with outstanding day and multiday hikes
fine hiking, skiing, biking, fishing, rafting and even in several national parks, including Nahuel
paragliding. Huapi and Lanín. Bariloche is the best
base for exploring the former, San Martín
Mendoza de los Andes the latter.

One word: Aconcagua. Plus great skiing, rafting, Patagonia, along the Andes, has out-of-
rock climbing and more. this-world hiking. South of Bariloche, El
Bolsón is an excellent base for hiking both
El Chaltén in the forests outside of town and in near-
by Parque Nacional Lago Puelo. Parque
World-class hiking, trekking, rock climbing, kayak- Nacional Los Glaciares offers wonderful
ing and fishing. hiking in and around the Fitz Roy Range;
base yourself in El Chaltén and wait out
Puerto Madryn the storms (in the brewery, of course).

Dive with sea lions, or go windsurfing and Head to Parque Nacional Torres del
kayaking. Paine, in Chile but not far from El Calafate
in Argentina, for epic hiking. Tierra del
Junín de los Andes Fuego also has some good walks, conveni-
ently in Parque Nacional Tierra del Fuego.
Gorgeous rivers offer some of the world’s best
fly-fishing (for huge trout!). Then there are the high Andean peaks
west of Mendoza. Although these areas
Córdoba are more popular for mountaineering,
there’s some great trekking here as well.
The closest city to Los Gigantes, Argentina’s rock- The northern Andes around Quebrada de
climbing mecca (80km away). Humahuaca are also good.

Bariloche, Ushuaia, El Bolsón and Junín
de los Andes have a hiking and mountain-
eering club called Club Andino, which is

35

good for local information, maps and cur- SAILING...ON LAND? PL A N YO U R TRI P A r g e n t i n a O u t d oo r s
rent conditions. In San Juan province’s Parque Na-
cional El Leoncito, the lake bed of
Lonely Planet’s Trekking in the Patago- Pampa El Leoncito has become the
nian Andes is a great resource if you’re epicenter of carrovelismo (land sail-
planning some serious trekking. ing). Here, people zip across the dry
lake bed beneath Andean peaks in
Mountaineering so-called sail cars. If you’re inter-
ested, head straight to Barreal.
The Andes are a mountaineer’s dream,
especially in the San Juan and Mendoza Malargüe). Around Mendoza city are the
provinces, where some of the highest draws of Los Arenales and El Salto.
peaks in the western hemisphere are
found. While the most famous climb is Ac- There’s good climbing around Bariloche –
oncagua, the highest peak in the Americas, Cerro Catedral especially has popular crags.
there are plenty of others in the Andes – There are also good routes in Torres del
many of them more interesting and far Paine, Chile. Finally, in the Pampas, there’s
more technical. Near Barreal, the Cordón some climbing in Tandil and Mar del Plata.
de la Ramada boasts five peaks more than
6000m, including the mammoth Cerro Fishing
Mercedario, which tops out at 6770m. The
region is less congested than Aconcagua, Together, Patagonia and the Lake District
offers more technical climbs and is pre- constitute one of the world’s premier fly-
ferred by many climbers. Also near here fishing destinations, where introduced trout
is the majestic Cordillera de Ansilta, with species (brown, brook, lake and rainbow)
seven peaks scraping the sky at between and landlocked Atlantic salmon reach mas-
5130m and 5885m. sive sizes in cold rivers surrounded by spec-
tacular scenery. It’s an angler’s paradise.
The magnificent and challenging Fitz
Roy Range, in southern Patagonia near El In the Lake District, Junín de los Andes
Chaltén, is one of the world’s top moun- is the self-proclaimed trout capital of Ar-
taineering destinations, while the moun- gentina, and lining up a guide to take you
tains of Parque Nacional Nahuel Huapi to Parque Nacional Lanín’s superb trout
offer fun for all levels. streams is easy. Nearby Aluminé sits on
the banks of Río Aluminé, one of the coun-
Rock Climbing try’s most highly regarded trout streams.
Bariloche and Villa la Angostura are other
Patagonia’s Parque Nacional Los Glaciares, excellent bases.
home to Cerro Torre and Cerro Fitz Roy,
is one of the world’s most important rock- Further south, Parque Nacional Los
climbing destinations. Cerro Torre is con- Alerces (near Esquel) has outstanding lakes
sidered one of the five toughest climbs on and rivers. From El Chaltén, you can do day
the planet. The nearby town of El Chaltén trips to Lago del Desierto or Laguna Larga.
is a climber’s haven, and several shops of- Río Gallegos is a superb fly-fishing destina-
fer lessons and rent equipment. If you don’t tion. Other important Patagonian rivers
have the time or talent for climbs of the include Río Negro and Río Santa Cruz.
Cerro Torre magnitude, there are plenty of
other options. The city of Río Grande, on Tierra del
Fuego, is world famous for its fly-fishing.
Los Gigantes, in the Central Sierras, Its eponymous river holds some of the larg-
is fast becoming the country’s de facto est sea-run brown trout in the world.
rock-climbing capital and has lots of
high-q­ uality granite. There’s also climbing Deep-sea fishing is possible in Camar-
around Carolina. ones and Puerto Deseado; near Goberna-
dor Gregores there’s a lake with salmon
In Mendoza province, Los Molles is a and rainbow trout.
small, friendly hub for rock climbing, and
there’s more nearby at Chigüido (near In subtropical northeast Argentina, the
wide Río Paraná attracts fly-fishers, spin

36

PL A N YO U R TRI P A r g e n t i n a O u t d oo r s MUSH, FIDO, MUSH! ca (perch), puyen (common galaxias, a nar-
row fish native to the southern hemisphere),
You can’t say you’ve done it all until Patagonian pejerrey and the rare peladilla.
you’ve tried dog sledding, and Ar-
gentina’s a great place to start. Obvi- Fishing licenses are required and avail-
ously, this activity is possible only able at tackle shops, clubs de caza y pesca
when there’s snow, during the winter (hunting and fishing clubs), and sometimes
at tourist offices and YPF gas stations.

months of June to October – though

in Ushuaia the season might be longer.

Here are a few places to check out: Skiing & Snowboarding
Cavihue A village on the flanks of
Volcán Copahue Argentina’s mountains have outstanding
San Martín de los Andes A pictur- skiing, offering superb powder and plenty
esque town north of Bariloche of sunny days. Many resorts have large ski
Ushuaia The southernmost city in schools with instructors from all over the
the world! world, so language is not a problem. At
some of the older resorts, equipment can
fishers and trollers from around the world, be a little antiquated, but in general the
who pull in massive river species, such as quality of skiing more than compensates.
surubí (a huge catfish) and dorado (a trout-
like freshwater game fish). The dorado, not There are three main snow-sport areas:
to be confused with the saltwater mahi- Mendoza, the Lake District and Ushuaia.
mahi, is a powerful swimmer and one of Mendoza is near Argentina’s premier re-
the most exciting fish to catch on a fly. sort, Las Leñas, which has the best snow
and longest runs; the resort Los Penitentes
Guides & Services is also nearby. The Lake District is home
to several low-key resorts, including
In smaller towns such as Junín de los An- Cerro Catedral, near Bariloche, and Cerro
des, you can usually go to the tourist office Chapelco, near San Martín de los Andes.
and request a list of local fishing guides or Although the snow doesn’t get as powdery
operators. Another good option for indepen­ here, the views are superior to Las Leñas.
dent anglers heading to the Lake District And Esquel, further south in Patagonia,
is the Asociación de Guías Profesionales has great powder at La Hoya.
de Pesca Parque Nacional Nahuel Huapi y
Patagonia Norte (www.guiaspatagonicos. The world’s most southerly commercial
com.ar), which maintains a list and contact skiing is near Ushuaia. The ski season
details of licensed guides for northern Pata­ everywhere generally runs from mid-June
gonia and the Lake District. For informa- to mid-October.
tion about fly-fishing, contact Asociación
Argentina de Pesca con Mosca (%in Bue- Cycling
nos Aires 011-4773-0821; www.aapm.org.ar).
Cycling is a popular activity among Ar-
Many anglers use a tour agency based gentines, and spandex-clad cyclists are a
outside Argentina for guided excursions. common sight along many roads (despite a
decided lack of bike lanes in the country).
Rules & Regulations There are some outstanding paved routes,
especially in the Lake District and, to a
In the Lake District and Patagonia, the sea- lesser extent, in the Andean northwest.
son runs from November through April or
May. In the northeast, the season runs from In the northwest, there are several excel-
February to October. Lakes and streams on lent road routes, including the highway
private land may stay open longer. from Tucumán to Tafí del Valle, the direct
road from Salta to Jujuy, and, arguably
Trout fishing is almost always mandatory most spectacular of all, RN68, which takes
catch and release. Throughout Patagonia you through the Quebrada de Cafayate.
(including the Lake District), native species The Central Sierras are also great candi-
should always be thrown back. These are dates for cycling, and the mostly paved
usually smaller than trout and include per- network of roads rolls past a countryside

PL A N YO U R TRI P A r g e n t i n a O u t d oo r s37

Top: Skiing, CerroBUENAVENTURAMARIANO / GETTY IMAGES ©
Chapelco (p384)
Bottom: Kayaking,
Bariloche (p359)

ALEXANDRE CAPPI / GETTY IMAGES ©

38

PL A N YO U R TRI P A r g e n t i n a O u t d oo r s CATCHING THE WIND bike rides – a fantastic way to see parts of an
area you wouldn’t otherwise explore.
From around the world, windsurfing
and kiteboarding fanatics drag an Good places with mountain-bike rentals
insane amount of gear to an isolated include San Martín de los Andes, Villa la
spot in the central Andes: Dique Angostura, Bariloche and El Bolsón in the
Cuesta del Viento, literally ‘slope of Lake District; Esquel in Patagonia; Men-
the wind reservoir.’ The reservoir, doza and Uspallata in Mendoza province;
near the small village of Rodeo in San Barreal in San Juan province; Tilcara in
Juan province, is one of the best wind- the Andean Northwest; and Tandil in La
sports destinations on the planet. Its Pampa province.
consistent and extremely powerful
wind blows every afternoon, without White-Water Rafting &
fail, from October to early May. We Kayaking
checked it out and it blew us away!

that is at times reminiscent of Scotland. Currently, Río Mendoza and Río Diamante
Mendoza boasts some epic routes through in Mendoza province are the reigning
the Andes, but most are doable only for the white-water destinations, while Río Jura-
seasoned cyclist – those lacking thighs of mento near Salta is an exciting alternative.
glory can entertain themselves by pedaling
between wineries in Maipú. If you want great scenery, however, it’s
all about Patagonia. The Río Hua Hum
In the Lake District’s Parque Nacional and Río Meliquina, near San Martín de
Nahuel Huapi, there are several excellent los Andes, and Río Limay and Río Manso,
loops (including the Circuito Chico) that near Bariloche, are both spectacular. So
skirt gorgeous lakes and take in some is Río Aluminé, near wee Aluminé. From
of Patagonia’s most spectacular scenery. the Patagonian town of Esquel, you can
Cyclists often take their bikes on the Cruce join a rafting trip on the incredibly scenic,
de Lagos, a famous two-day boat/bus jour- glacial-fed Río Corcovado. A relatively un-
ney across the Andes to Chile. known rafting destination is Barreal, but
it’s more about the epic Andean scenery
Patagonia is a popular and mythical than the rapids. Scenic Class II to III floats
destination, with its desolate, beautiful are possible on most of these rivers, while
landscapes and wide-open skies. However, Class IV runs are possible on the Ríos
be ready for fierce, multidirectional winds Mendoza, Diamante, Meliquina, Hua Hum
and rough gravel roads. Take four-season and Corcovado. Experience is generally
gear, even in summer, when long days and unnecessary for guided runs.
relatively warm weather make for the best
touring. The classic road down here is Kayaking is possible on many of the riv-
RN40, but cycling is tough because of the ers mentioned, and also around Ushuaia,
winds and lack of water; most cyclists alter- El Chaltén, Viedma, Puerto Madryn, Par-
nate sections with Chile’s Carretera Austral. aná, Rosario and Salta. Sea kayakers have
options at Río Deseado and the estancia
In recent years, Buenos Aires has be- (ranch) at Bahía Bustamante.
come a more bike-friendly destination,
with an expanding system of dedicated Paragliding & Skydiving
bike lanes, along with a free bike-share
program. Mendoza and Córdoba also have Paragliding is popular in Argentina and
some dedicated bike lanes. it’s a great place to take tandem flights or
classes. Many agencies in Bariloche offer
Mountain Biking paragliding. Tucumán is especially big on
this sport, but Salta, La Rioja and Merlo
Mountain biking is fairly undeveloped in Ar- also have options in or near the Andean
gentina and you’ll find few places have true Northwest. Perhaps the best place is La
single tracks for mountain bikers. However, Cumbre, in Córdoba’s Central Sierras – it’s
at most outdoor hubs (such as Bariloche) you also a thrilling place to try skydiving.
can rent a mountain bike for a day of inde-
pendent pedaling or for guided mountain-

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 39

Plan Your Trip

Eat & Drink Like
a Local

Argentines take barbecuing to heights you cannot imagine. Their
best pizzas vie with those of New York and Naples. They make fabu-
lous wines. Mate, that iconic tea, doubles as a social bond between
family and friends. And your taste buds will sing as they sample
Argentina’s delectable ice cream.

Staples & Specialties Tips for Eating Out

Beef Reservations

When the first Spaniards came to Argen- Only necessary on weekends at better restaurants
tina, they brought cattle. But efforts to (or high season at Mar del Plata or Bariloche, for
establish a colony proved unfruitful, and example).
the herds were abandoned in the pampas.
Here the cows found the bovine equivalent Budgeting
of heaven: plenty of lush, fertile grasses on
which to feed and few natural predators. To save a few bucks at lunch, opt for the menú del
After the Europeans recolonized, they bred día or menú ejecutivo. These ‘set menus’ usually
these cattle with other bovine breeds. include a main dish, dessert and drink.
Large, modern supermarkets are common, and
Traditionally, free-range Argentine cows they’ll have whatever you need for self-catering,
ate nutritious pampas grass and were including (usually) a takeout counter.
raised without antibiotics and growth
hormones. But this culture is being lost, Paying the Bill
and today most beef in restaurants comes
from feedlots. Ask for your bill by saying, ‘la cuenta, por favor’
(‘the bill, please’) or making the ‘writing in air’
Average beef consumption in Argentina gesture. Some restaurants accept credit cards,
is around 59kg per person per year – but others (usually smaller ones) only take cash.
though in the past, they ate much more. This is especially true outside big cities.
At fancier restaurants, your final bill may arrive
Italian & Spanish with a cubierto (small cover charge for bread and
use of utensils). This is not a tip, which is usually
Thanks to Argentina’s Italian heritage, around 10% and a separate charge.
the national cuisine has been highly influ-
enced by Italian immigrants who entered
the country during the late 19th century.
Along with an animated set of speaking
gestures, they brought their love of pasta,
pizza, gelato and more.

Many restaurants make their own
pasta – look for pasta casera (handmade

GABRIELDOME / GETTY IMAGES ©

40 ROBERT FRERCK / GETTY IMAGES ©

Top: Empanadas
Bottom: A traditional
parrilla grill
PL A N YO U R TRI P E at & D r i n k L i k e a L o c al

41

pasta). Some of the varieties of pasta you’ll Local Specialties PL A N YO U R TRI P E at & D r i n k L i k e a L o c al
encounter are ravioles, sorrentinos (large,
round pasta parcels similar to ravioli), Although comidas típicas can refer to
ñoquis (gnocchi) and tallarines (fettuc- any of Argentina’s regional dishes, it often
cine). Standard sauces include tuco (to- refers to food from the Andean Northwest.
mato sauce), estofado (beef stew, popular Food from this region, which has roots in
with ravioli) and salsa blanca (béchamel). pre-Columbian times, has more in com-
Be aware that occasionally the sauce is not mon with the cuisines of Bolivia and Peru
included in the price of the pasta – you than with the Europeanized food of the
choose and pay for it separately. rest of Argentina. It’s frequently spicy and
hard to find elsewhere (most Argentines
Pizza is sold at pizzerias throughout the can’t tolerate anything spicy). Typical
country, though many regular restaurants dishes can include everything from locro
offer it as well. It’s generally excellent, so (a hearty corn or mixed-grain stew with
go ahead and order a slice or two. meat) and tamales to humitas (sweet ta-
males) and fried empanadas.
Spanish cooking is less popular than
Italian, but forms another bedrock of Ar- In Patagonia, lamb is as common as
gentine food. In Spanish restaurants here beef. Along the coast, seafood is a popular
you’ll find paella, as well as other typically choice and includes fish, oysters and king
Spanish seafood preparations. Most of the crab. In the Lake District, game meats
country’s guisos and pucheros (types of such as venison, wild boar and trout are
stew) are descendants from Spain. popular. In the west, the provinces of

THE BEEF ON BEEF

You walk into a traditional parrilla (steak restaurant), breeze past the sizzling grill at
the entrance and sit down. You’ve never had to choose between more than two or
three cuts of steak in your life, but the menu has at least 10 choices. What to do?

If you want to try a bit of everything, go for the parrillada (mixed grill). It often
includes chorizo (beef or pork sausage), costillas (ribs) and carne (beef). It can
also come with more exotic items such as chinchulines (small intestines), mollejas
(sweetbreads) and morcilla (blood sausage). Order a parrillada for as many people
as you want and the parrilla will adjust servings accordingly.

Prime beef cuts include the following:
Bife de chorizo Sirloin; a thick and juicy cut.

Bife de costilla T-bone or Porterhouse steak.

Bife de lomo Tenderloin; a tender though less flavorful piece.

Cuadril Rump steak; often a thin cut.

Ojo de bife Rib eye; a choice smaller morsel.

Tira de asado Short ribs; thin crispy strips of ribs.

Vacío Flank steak; textured, chewy and tasty.

If you don’t specify, your steak will be cooked a punto (medium to well done). Getting
a steak medium rare or rare is more difficult than you’d imagine. If you want a little
pink in the center, order it jugoso; if you like it truly rare, try vuelta y vuelta. Often it
comes overcooked, however; try showing your server a photo of a cut steak, cooked
the way you want it.

Don’t miss chimichurri, a tasty sauce often made of olive oil, garlic and parsley.
Occasionally you can get salsa criolla, a condiment made of diced tomatoes, onion
and parsley.

If you’re lucky enough to be invited to an asado (family or friends’ barbecue), do
attend – here the art of grilling beef has been perfected, and the social bonding is
priceless.

42

PL A N YO U R TRI P E at & D r i n k L i k e a L o c al Mendoza, San Juan and La Rioja pride Desserts & Sweets
themselves on chivito (young goat). River
fish, such as the dorado, pacú (a relative of Two of Argentina’s most definitive treats
the piranha) and surubí (a type of catfish), are dulce de leche (a creamy milk caramel)
are staples in the northeast. and alfajores (round, cookie-type sand-
wiches often covered in chocolate). Each
Snacks region of Argentina has its own version of
the alfajor.
Kioscos (kiosks) are all over town and
provide sweets, cookies, ice cream and Because of Argentina’s Italian heritage,
packaged sandwiches. On the streets, pan- Argentine helado is comparable to the best
cho (hot dog) and garrapiñadas (sugar- ice cream anywhere in the world. There
roasted peanuts) sellers prepare and sell are heladerías (ice-cream stores) in every
their treats from carts. town, where the luscious concoctions will
be swirled into a peaked mountain and
Sandwiches de miga (thin, crustless handed over with a plastic spoon stuck in
sandwiches, usually with cheese and ham) the side. Don’t miss this special treat.
are popular tea-time snacks. Lomitos
(steak sandwiches) are the pinnacle of In restaurants, fruit salad and ice
Argentine sandwiches, while the choripán cream are often on the menu, while flan
is a classic barbecue sausage sandwich. is a baked custard that comes with either
cream or dulce de leche topping.
Empanadas – small, stuffed turnovers
ubiquitous in Argentina – are prepared Drinks
differently throughout the country (you’ll
find spicy ground-beef empanadas in the Nonalcoholic Drinks
Andean Northwest, while in Patagonia
lamb is a common filling). They make for Argentines love their coffee, and you can
a tasty, quick meal and are especially good order several versions. A café con leche is
for bus travel. half coffee and half milk, while a cortado
is an espresso with a little milk. A café

MATE & ITS RITUAL

The preparation and consumption of mate (pronounced mah-tay) is more than a
simple drink. It’s an elaborate ritual shared among family, friends and coworkers.

Yerba mate is the dried, chopped leaf of Ilex paraguayensis, a relative of the com-
mon holly. Argentina is one of the world’s largest producers and consumers of the
stuff, and its citizens down an average of 5kg per person per year.

Preparing and drinking mate is a ritual in itself. One person, the cebador (server),
fills the mate gourd almost to the top with yerba, and then slowly pours hot water as
he or she fills the gourd. The cebador then passes the mate to each drinker, who sips
the liquid through the bombilla, a silver straw with a filter at the end. Each partici-
pant drinks the gourd dry each time. Remember it’s bad form to touch the bombilla,
and don’t hold the mate too long before passing it on! A simple ‘gracias’ will tell the
server to pass you by.

An invitation to partake in mate is a cultural treat and not to be missed, although
the drink is an acquired taste and novices will find it very hot and bitter at first (add-
ing sugar can be an option).

Mate is rarely served in restaurants or cafes, but you can buy a thermos, mate
gourd, bombilla and a bag of herb at any large supermarket. Cure your gourd by fill-
ing it with hot water and yerba and letting it soak for 24 hours. Nearly all restaurants,
cafes and hotels are used to filling thermoses, sometimes charging a small amount.
Simply whip out your thermos and ask: ‘¿Podía calentar agua para mate?’ (‘Would
you mind heating water for mate?’). And start making friends.

PL A N YO U R TRI P E at & D r i n k L i k e a L o c al43

Top: MateAS FOOD STUDIO / GETTY IMAGES ©
Bottom: Alfajores filled

with dulce de leche

EYESWIDEOPEN / GETTY IMAGES ©

44

PL A N YO U R TRI P E at & D r i n k L i k e a L o c al chico is an espresso and a lagrima is most- and panaderías are bakeries. Confiterías
ly milk with a few drops of coffee. (cafes serving light meals) are open all
day and into the night, and often have a
Té negro or té común is black tea; herbal long list of both food and drinks. Cafes,
tea is usually manzanilla (chamomile). bars and pubs usually have a more lim-
Chocolate lovers should try a submarino, a ited range of snacks and meals available,
bar of chocolate melted in hot milk. Fresh- though some can offer full meals. A tene-
squeezed orange juice is jugo de naranja dor libre (literally, ‘free fork’) is an all-
exprimido. A licuado is fruit blended with you-can-eat restaurant; quality is usually
milk or water. decent, but a minimum-drink purchase is
often mandatory and costs extra.
Even in big cities like Buenos Aires, the
agua de canilla (tap water) is drinkable. Argentines eat little for breakfast –
In restaurants, however, most people order usually just a coffee with medialunas
bottled mineral water – ask for agua con (croissants – either de manteca, sweet,
gas (with bubbles) or agua sin gas (with- or de grasa, plain). Tostadas (toast) with
out). In older, more traditional restaurants, manteca (butter) or mermelada (jam) is
carbonated water in a spritzer bottle (un an alternative, as are facturas (pastries).
sifón de soda) is a great for drinking. Higher-end hotels and B&Bs tend to offer
Gaseosas (soft drinks) are very popular in heartier breakfasts.
Argentina.

Alcoholic Drinks Vegetarians & Vegans

Mendoza is Argentina’s premier wine re- Health foods, organic products and veg-
gion and well known for its robust malbec, etarian restaurants are available in Argen-
but other provinces also produce excellent tina’s biggest cities, but outside of them
wines. San Juan is famous for its succulent you’ll have to search harder.
syrah and Cafayate for its torrontés, a
crisp, dry white wine. Meanwhile, the Pa- Most restaurant menus include a few
tagonia region is becoming a stronghouse vegetarian choices, and pastas are a
for pinot noir. nearly ubiquitous option. Pizzerias and
empanaderías (empanada shops) are good
If Argentina has a national beer, it’s bets – look for empanadas made with
Quilmes. Order a porrón and you’ll get acelga (chard) and choclo (corn). If you’re
bottled beer (a half-liter bottle in Buenos stuck at a parrilla, your choices will be
Aires; a big bottle up north); a chopp is salads, omelets, pasta, baked potatoes,
a frosty mug of draft. Unless you order it provoleta (a thick slice of grilled provolone
with a meal, beer is usually served with a cheese) and roasted vegetables. Pescado
free snack. (fish) and mariscos (seafood) are some-
times available for pescatarians.
Most fine restaurants have a wine list,
called la carta de vinos. Sommeliers are Sin carne means ‘without meat,’ and the
scarce. words soy vegetariano/a (‘I’m a vegetar-
ian’) will come in handy when explaining
At the harder end of the spectrum, it’s to an Argentine why you don’t eat their
all about Fernet Branca, a bitter, herbed nation’s renowned steaks.
Italian digestif originally intended as
medicine. Fernet con Coke is Argentina’s Vegans will have a much harder time in
favorite cocktail and, despite many claims Argentina; the word for vegan is vegano/a.
that it won’t give you hangover, it will Make sure homemade pasta doesn’t in-
(trust us). clude egg, and that fried vegetables aren’t
cooked in lard (grasa; manteca means
Where to Eat & Drink butter in Argentina). Some breads are
made with milk or cheese. You’ll need to
Restaurants are generally open from noon be creative to survive here. One tip: look
to 3pm for lunch and 8 or 9pm to midnight for accommodations with a kitchen, so
for dinner, though exact hours will vary you can shop for and cook your own food.
depending on the restaurant. Good luck.

For the best meats, head to a parrilla
(steak restaurant). Pizzerias bake pizzas

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 45

Plan Your Trip

Travel with
Children

While Argentina is best known for its steak, gauchos and tango –
not your top kid-friendly themes – there is plenty this country has
to offer your little ones. There are dinosaur museums to wow at,
beach resorts to splash around in and plenty of outdoor activities
to use up all that extra energy. You’ll find Argentina makes a good,
interesting and, yes, at times challenging but fun family destination.

Argentina for Kids Best Regions for Kids

Argentina is remarkably child-friendly in Buenos Aires
terms of general travel safety and people’s
attitudes towards families. This is a coun- Argentina’s capital provides plenty of museums,
try where family comes first. parks and shopping malls, many with fun areas for
kids. For more details, see p72.
Argentine parents will often send unac-
companied pre-adolescents on errands or Atlantic Coast
neighborly visits. While you’re not likely
to do this, you can usually count on your Beaches and more beaches – bring swimsuits and
children’s safety in public. sunscreen, and start building castles.

Argentina’s numerous plazas and public Iguazú
parks, many with playgrounds, are popular
gathering spots for families. Argentine’s Waterfalls and wildlife galore, plus thrilling boat
frequently touch each other, so your chil- rides that guarantee a fun soaking.
dren may be patted on the head by friendly
strangers. Kids are a great ice-breaker and Península Valdés
certainly make it easier for you to meet the
locals. Rich with wildlife, such as splashy whales, smelly
elephant seals and supercute penguins.
And remember that families stay out
very late in this country – it’s common to Bariloche
see young kids and babies out past mid-
night with their parents. There’s no early Outdoor activities are the draw here – go hiking,
curfew and everyone’s out having fun, so rock climbing, horseback riding and rafting.
consider doing the same!
Mendoza

Wine tasting is off-limits for the kids, but you can
take them skiing and white-water rafting.

46

PL A N YO U R TRI P T rave l with C hi l d re n Children’s Highlights Planning

Watching Wildlife Outdoor activities are best experienced
outside the winter months of June through
¨¨Visit Güirá Oga (p197) zoo in the Iguazú Falls August (with the exception of skiing, of
area. course). Small kids often get discounts on
¨¨Esteros del Iberá (p177) is full of marsh deer, such things as motel stays, museum admis-
black caimans and adorable capybaras. sions and restaurant meals. Supermarkets
¨¨Check out whales, elephant seals and suit- offer a decent selection of baby food, infant
wearing penguins on Península Valdés (p410). formulas, disposable diapers, wet wipes
¨¨Rosario’s Jardín de los Niños (p154), a fun and other necessities. Big pharmacies
discovery park, offers activities and puzzles for such as Farmacity also stock some of these
the little ones. items.

Energy Burners Strollers on crowded and uneven side-
walks can be a liability, so consider bring-
¨¨Parque de la Costa (p72), just outside BA in ing a baby carrier. Public bathrooms are
Tigre, has roller coasters and other theme-park often poorly maintained, and baby chang-
fun. ing tables are not common.
¨¨Complejo Termal Cacheuta (p336), outside
Mendoza, is a thermal-baths complex with wave Sweet Dreams
pool and waterslides.
¨¨The Andes mountains offer great skiing The great majority of hotels accept chil-
around Bariloche and Mendoza. dren without any problems; the most up-
scale may even offer babysitting services.
Rainy Days The only places with possible minimum
age restrictions are small boutique hotels
¨¨Kids can overnight in their pajamas at Museo or guesthouses. Hostels are usually not
Paleontológico Egidio Feruglio (p415), Trelew’s the best environment for kids, but a few
dinosaur museum. welcome them.
¨¨Museo de La Plata (p119) is Argentina’s best
natural history museum; the taxidermy and During summer, reserving a hotel with
skeletons are especially awesome. a pool can be a good idea. Also look for
¨¨Glaciarium (p458), El Calafate’s slickest places with kitchenettes. Apartments are
museum, highlights the wonders of glaciers. available, especially in BA; in less-urban
¨¨Bigger shopping centers often have holiday destinations you can look for
playgrounds, video arcades, toy stores and cabañas (cabins) with full kitchens. Larger
ice-cream shops. campgrounds often have cabañas, com-
mon cooking facilities and sometimes play
Outdoor Fun structures.

¨¨El Calafate’s superactive Glaciar Perito Dining
Moreno is a wonder to behold for all ages.
¨¨The beaches on Argentina’s Atlantic coast Most restaurants offer a selection of food
are family-friendly, and offer up plenty of sand, suitable for children, such as vegetables,
surf and sun. pasta, pizza, chicken and milanesas
¨¨Horseback rides and folkloric shows are (breaded meat cutlets). Empanadas make
highlights during your stay on an estancia good, healthy snacks that are fun to eat,
(ranch). and don’t forget to take the kids out for ice
cream – it’s a real Argentine treat!

Transportation

When it comes to public transportation,
Argentines are usually very helpful. Taxis
and remises (radio taxis) are common and
affordable in most towns.

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 47

Regions Buenos Aires
at a
Glance Food
Nightlife
As the eighth-largest country in the world, Tango
Argentina boasts nearly every kind of environ-
ment, from glaciated mountain peaks and Steaks & More
cacti-dotted deserts, to animal-rich swamp- There are plenty of fine
lands and shrubby, arid steppes. Outdoor steak houses in Buenos
fun-seekers will find their blissful adventures, Aires. But you’ll also find
beachcombers their warm stretches of sand dozens of ethnic restau-
and wine lovers their luscious vineyards. rants covering cuisines
from Mexico, Brazil, India,
The bigger cities, such as Buenos Aires and China, Thailand, the
Córdoba, boast endless nightlife, entertain- Middle East…and practi-
ment, shopping and restaurants, along with a cally anywhere else.
dose of culture, such as excellent museums,
tango dance halls and colonial history. Argen- Burn the Midnight Oil
tina offers pretty much everything you might Buenos Aires is indeed
be looking for in a destination, so choose your the city that never sleeps.
desires, give yourself enough time to experi- After dinner – which often
ence them all, and just take off! ends after midnight on
weekends – porteños (BA
residents) head out for a
drink, then hit the night-
clubs after 2am. Other
events happen at a more
‘reasonable’ hour, but you
get the idea – this city loves
staying up late.

Sultry Dancing
Ah, the tango. There’s no
denying the attraction of
this sexy dance. And BA
boasts countless dance
venues and classes, along
with world-class competi-
tions. Put on your dancing
shoes and get ready to fall
in love – you’re in the heart
of tango land here.

p52

48

PLAN YOUR TRIP Regions at a Glance The Pampas & the Iguazú Falls & the Salta & the
Atlantic Coast Northeast Andean Northwest

Beaches Water Features Indigenous Culture
Gauchos Wildlife Colonial Cities
Hiking Historic Missions Activities

Life’s a Beach Wide Rivers, Mighty Before Columbus
In January coastal cities Iguazú The northwestern peoples
such as Mar del Plata, Towns and cities along the witnessed the Inca; then
Pinamar and Necochea region’s two major rivers the Spanish arrived. Centu-
become heaving hubs full often boast great waterside ries later, the ruins of cities
of sun-bronzed Argentines strips for boating, strolling, remain, but the food, daily
lying on hot sands during eating and partying, while life and handicrafts speak
the day and partying all large fish attract anglers. Up of a persisting, living and
night long. north, Iguazú, the world’s changing culture.
most impressive waterfalls,
Gaucho Culture will leave you in awe. Historical Towns
This quintessential icon’s The northwestern cities
heyday was centuries ago, Cute Capybaras are Argentina’s oldest, and
but today the culture is The Esteros del Iberá wet- there’s an unmistakable
kept alive in San Antonio lands hold an astonishing time-honored feel to them.
de Areco, where an an- wealth of creatures, includ- Venerable churches, stately
nual festival celebrates the ing snapping caimans, facades and handsome
gaucho’s life. You can also colorful birdlife and roly- plazas planted with lofty
visit an estancia (ranch), poly capybaras. A long hop trees – together with the
where horseback riding, north, Iguazú’s national relaxed pace of life – give
gaucho demonstrations park and jungle ecosystem these places an ambience
and asados (barbecues) are is equally rich in distinct unlike any other.
highlights. wildlife species.
Out & About
Hiking & Landscapes Jesuit Ruins The Andes dominate the
The ancient, worn-down Built by Jesuits in the 17th geography here and boast
mountain ranges of the and 18th centuries, remote excellent climbing, walking,
Pampas aren’t as spec- reducciones (missions) and 4WD excursions. But
tacular as the youthful were created to educate, there are also subtropical
Andes. But around Sierra evangelize and protect local national parks replete with
de la Ventana are some Guaraní populations. They bird and animal life, and
hikes offering dramatic flourished for about 150 top-notch hang gliding and
views of surrounding years before the Jesuits’ paragliding offer the oppor­
landscapes – including one expulsion left the missions tunity to see how things
where you peek through a exposed to slave raids and look from above.
rock ‘window.’ colonization.
p218
p115 p150