Lonely Planet Argentina

249

Madre Tierra BAKERY, CAFE $ 88 Getting There & Away
(Belgrano 619; mains AR$50; h6:30am-3pm
& 4-10:30pm Mon-Sat; Wv) This place is a AIR
standout. The vegetarian food (there’s a Aerolíneas (% 0388-422-2575; www.aero
daily set menu) is excellent and the sand- lineas.com.ar; San Martín 96; h8:30am-
wiches and pizzas can be washed down with 12:30pm & 4:30-8:30pm Mon-Fri, 8:30am-
fresh juice or organic beer. There’s lovely 12:30pm Sat) services Buenos Aires and also
garden-patio seating and the bakery out the Mendoza via Córdoba.

front does wholesome breads. BUS
The new bus terminal is 6km southeast of the
Viracocha NORTHWEST ARGENTINE $ center. It’s got great facilities, including showers
(cnr Independencia & Lamadrid; mains AR$70-110; and a tourist office (Bus Terminal; h7:30am-
h11:30am-3pm & 8:15pm-12:30am, closed Sun 9:30pm Mon-Fri, 8am-1pm & 3:30-9:30pm Sat
Oct-Mar, closed Tue Apr-Sep; W) S Atmosp­ heric & Sun).
vaulted restaurant serving excellent tradi-
tional dishes such as picantes of any meat Daily buses going from Salta to Chile stop here.

you can think of, pickled llama and warming Buses from Jujuy

peanut soup. DESTINATION COST (AR$) TIME (HR)
Buenos Aires 1400 20-23
oKrysys ARGENTINE $$ Córdoba 835 12-16
(Balcarce 272; mains AR$80-140; h12:30-3pm Humahuaca 66 2
& 8:30pm-12:30am Mon-Sat, 12:30-3:30pm Sun; La Quiaca 115 4-5
W) The best parrilla option is this central, Mendoza 1207 21
upscale place offering all your barbecued fa- Purmamarca 42 1¼
vorites in a relaxed atmosphere. But there’s Salta 75 2 Sa lta & th e A n d e a n N o rth w e s t LSDarsli ntYkaui&n gJ ua&jsuNyi gPhrtolvi fi neces
plenty more on the menu, with a range of Salvador 322 7
tasty sauces to go with the chicken, pork or Mazza
beef, and various appetizing starters. Prices Tilcara 45 1¾
are fair, and you’ll get the meat the way you Tucumán 325 5
want it cooked.

6 Drinking & Nightlife 88 Getting Around

The big boliches (nightclubs) are out on RN El Cadillal airport is 33km east. A shuttle ser-
9 south of town. vice (%15-432-2482; AR$100) leaves three
times daily from the corner of Canónigo Gorriti
3 Entertainment and Belgrano to coincide with flights; alterna-
tively it’s AR$340 in a remise.
Jujuy’s several folkloric peñas have live mu-
sic at weekends. Several local buses head to the bus station
(AR$5.50), including 8A and 9A from Canónigo
La Casa de Jeremías TRADITIONAL MUSIC Gorriti between San Martín and Independencia.
From the bus terminal, several lines run very
(www.facebook.com/lacasa.dejeremias; Guzmán regularly to the center.
306) Friday and Saturday nights are the Hertz (% 0388-422-9582; www.hertz.com;
best times to head over to this popular Balcarce 578; h 9am-noon & 5-9pm Mon-Sat)
spot, which has live Jujuy folkloric bands is central for car rental; there are also airport
at weekends. It does decent traditional food operators.
also. Check the Facebook page for upcoming
events.

88 Information Las Yungas

Municipal Tourist Office (% 0388-402-0246; Eastern Jujuy province is a humid, fertile
www.sansalvadordejujuy.gob.ar; cnr Alvear subtropical zone where arid, treeless alti-
& Otero; h7am-10pm) Friendly and central. plano gives way to montane forest and, in
Hours vary depending on staffing. places, dense cloud forest. It’s a spectacular,
Provincial Tourist Office (% 0388-422-1343; vibrantly green area.
www.turismo.jujuy.gov.ar; Canónigo Gorriti
295; h7am-10pm Mon-Fri, 8am-9pm Sat &
Sun) Excellent office on the plaza, with good
brochures and staff.

250 Sa lta & th e A n d e a n N o rth w e s t QGS eaultettbairn&agdJaAurjdoueuyHnPudrmoavhi nucaecsa [email protected]; San Lorenzo s/n, Calilegua;
s/d/tr US$20/27/38; aWs) is a character-
Parque Nacional Calilegua ful, haphazardly run centenarian bunga-
low with attractive rooms and a verdant,
This accessible, beautiful, biodiverse park sculpture-f­illed garden. It’s cheap and very
stretches up the Serranía de Calilegua range casual: there are no locks on the rooms and
to peaks offering boundless views above the you’re left to your own devices. Toucans
forest and across the Chaco to the east. roost in the trees opposite. Breakfast is US$3
extra. On the park-like plaza in the heart of
The spectacular 22km road through the town, Hostería Benítez (%03886-433119;
park ascends from 550m to 1700m, taking [email protected]; 19 de Abril s/n, Calile-
you through the three types of forest that gua; s/d US$45/60; aW) offers a warm family
characterize the park’s different altitude lay- welcome and clean, comfortable, well-kept
ers and offering spectacular vistas. rooms of hotel standard. Good breakfasts
and dinners are served in the appealing din-
Along this road are trailheads for 10 ing area.
marked hikes, from 10-minute strolls to
tough descents down to river level. The best Very regular buses between Jujuy or Salta
places for bird- and mammal-watching are and Salvador Mazza stop at Libertador Gen-
near the stream courses in the early morn- eral San Martín and Calilegua, and may let
ing or late afternoon. Most trailheads are you off at the park junction, 3km north of
within easy walking distance of the park Libertador’s center and 2km south of Cal-
entrance. Rangers offer guiding services on ilegua. It’s 8km from here to Aguas Negras
the longer trails. ranger station; there’s enough traffic to hitch-
hike. It’s also easy to taxi it from either town.
From Valle Grande, work is underway to
finalize the road connection to the Quebra- Quebrada de Humahuaca
da de Humahuaca. You can hike to Huma-
huaca or Tilcara from here. North of Jujuy, the memorable Quebrada de
Humahuaca snakes its way upward toward
The ranger station at Aguas Negras, the Bolivia. It’s a harsh but vivid landscape, a
park entrance ([email protected]; h9am- dry yet river-scoured canyon overlooked by
1pm & 2-6pm) F, is the best source of mountainsides whose sedimentary strata
information about trails and conditions. have been eroded into spectacular scalloped
There’s another ranger station at Mesada formations revealing a spectrum of colors in
de las Colmenas, halfway along the road undulating waves. The palette of this World
through the park. Heritage–listed valley changes constantly,
from shades of creamy white to rich, deep
The free campground is at the entrance. reds; the rock formations in places recall
It has bathrooms and shower, but no power, a necklace of sharks’ teeth, in others the
drinking water or shop. knobbly backbone of some unspeakable
beast.
Libertador General San Martín is a siz-
able sugarcane town with little charm but
several places to stay. Little Calilegua is
more appealing, with a tumbledown trop-
ical feel and a deafening chorus of cicadas
around the historic Sala de Calilegua estate.
Jardín Colonial (%03886-430334; eljardin

BOLIVIA VIA SALVADOR MAZZA OR AGUAS BLANCAS

RN 34 continues past Calilegua to Argentina’s northernmost settlement, Salvador Maz-
za (aka Pocitos), a major frontier with Bolivia. Cross the border (h24hr), and take a
shared taxi 5km to Yacuiba in Bolivia, which has buses to Tarija and Santa Cruz. There’s
no Bolivian consulate, so get your visa in Jujuy or Salta if you need one. Salvador Mazza
is served by numerous buses from Jujuy, Salta and beyond.

Another crossing in this area is the international bridge between Aguas Blancas and
Bermejo, from where there are good onward bus connections to Tarija. Aguas Blancas is
served by bus from Salta, but there are more frequent connections to Orán, from where
shared taxis leave for Aguas Blancas from opposite the bus station. Direct services with
Juarez are available between Salta and Tarija (AR$700, eight hours, twice weekly).

Pirate shared taxis outside Salta’s bus terminal head direct for the Bolivian border
and cost little more than the bus.

251

Dotting the valley are dusty, picturesque, CARNAVAL IN THE QUEBRADA
indigenous towns offering a fine variety of
places to stay, plus historic adobe churches, Argentina’s most intriguing Carnaval
handicrafts and homey restaurants serving celebrations take place the length of the
warming locro and llama fillets. The region Quebrada de Humahuaca in February/
has experienced a tourism boom in recent March. Indigenous traditions melded
years and gets very full in summer, when ac- with customs of the Spanish conquer-
commodation prices soar. ors have created a vibrant hybrid that
kicks off on the Saturday that falls 50
Buses run along this old colonial post days before Easter Sunday. In each
route regularly; it’s easy to jump off and on town, a devil figure is dug up from where
as required. Closest car hire is Jujuy. The he was buried the previous year and is
Quebrada shows its best side early in the paraded into town amid much noise;
morning, when colors are more vivid and this triggers an eight-day bender of
the wind hasn’t got up. dancing and copious drinking. The devil
is then reinterred, and sin symbolically
Purmamarca put back in the closet for another year.

% 0388 / POP 500 / ELEV 2192M oHuaira Huasi HOTEL $$
(%0388-423-7134; www.huairahuasi.com.ar; RN 52,
Little Purmamarca, 3km west of the high- Km5; d US$134-155, q US$225; aiW) One of a
way, sits under celebrated Cerro de los Siete handful of characterful hotels on the main Sa lta & th e A n d e a n N o rth w e s t SQlauleetebapri&andgJau jdueyHPurmoavhi nucaecsa
Colores (Hill of Seven Colors), a spectacu- road above town, this stands out for its ma-
lar, jagged formation resembling the mar- jestic valley views and handsome terracotta-­
zipan fantasy of a megalomaniac pastry colored adobe buildings. There are two
chef. The village is postcard-pretty, with apartments that sleep five, and are just beau-
adobe houses and ancient algarrobo trees tifully decorated with local fabrics and car­
by the bijou 17th-century church. This, and dón wood; rooms are obviously smaller but
its proximity to Jujuy, has made it very still lovely. Good value and charming hosts.
touristy; if you’re looking for an authen-
tic Andean village, move on. Nevertheless, oLos Colorados APARTMENTS $$$
Purmamarca is a gloriously beautiful spot (%0388-490-8182; www.loscoloradosjujuy.com.ar;
and an excellent place to shop for woven Chapacal s/n; s/d/q US$120/160/250; aWc)
goods; a flourishing market sets up on the Looking straight out of a science-fiction
plaza every day. movie, these strange but inviting apart-
ments are tucked right into the cerro, and
Make sure you take the easy but spectacu-
lar 3km walk around the cerro (hill), whose
striking colors are best appreciated in the
morning or evening sunlight.

4 Sleeping blend in with it. They are stylish, spacious
and cozy; fine places to hole up for a while
El Pequeño Inti GUESTHOUSE $ and a great option for families.
(%0388-490-8089; Florida s/n; s/d US$40/45)
Small and enticing, this fine little choice is
La Comarca BOUTIQUE HOTEL $$$
(%0388-490-8001; www.lacomarcahotel.com.ar;
just off the plaza. Offering value (for two), RN 52, Km3.8; s/d US$142/180; aiWsc)
it has unadorned rooms with comfortable
beds and marine-schemed bathrooms. Wi-fi On the main road but an easy stroll into
woud be a nice touch, though. town, this well-run place offers a variety of
sweet mauve-colored accommodations sur-
Mama Coca HOSTEL $ rounding a carefully tended lawn and gar-
(%0388-490-8434; mamacocapurma@hotmail.
com; Rivadavia s/n; dm/d US$10/25; W) Close den. Rooms open onto this and the main
building, which offers a great lounge area, a
to the bus station and behind a restaurant, sauna, a pretty little pool and more. Houses
this casual hostel is a simple – very simple –
place to hole up. It’s friendly and family-run, and cabins sleep up to six. Staff is polite,
friendly and helpful. Views are just fabulous.
with a small vine-shaded patio. Dorms have
a decent amount of space. It’s cheaper if you
Terrazas de la Posta HOTEL $$$
(%0388-490-8053; www.terrazasdelaposta.com.
don’t want breakfast. No kitchen. ar; s US$145, d standard/superior US$157/182;

aW) Located at the edge of the center, these

252

CHILE VIA SUSQUES

The paved road climbs doggedly from Purmamarca through spectacular bleak highland
scenery to a 4150m pass, then crosses a plateau partly occupied by the Salinas Grandes.
You hit civilization at Susques, 130km from Purmamarca, which has gas and an ATM.

Susques is well worth a stop for its terrific village church (admission by donation;
h8am-6pm). Dating from 1598, it has a thatched roof, cactus-wood ceiling and beat-
en-earth floor, as well as charismatic, naïve paintings of saints on the whitewashed ado-
be walls. There’s an occasionally open tourist office on the main road, and basic places
to stay.

Beyond Susques, the road continues 154km to the Paso de Jama (4230m), a spec-
tacular journey. This is the Chilean border, although Argentine immigration (8am to
midnight) is some way before it. There’s gas here. No fruit, vegetables or coca leaves are
allowed into Chile – there are checks. The paved road continues toward San Pedro de
Atacama.

Daily buses run from Jujuy to Susques (AR$115, four to five hours) via Purmamarca
(AR$90). Services from Salta and Jujuy to Chile stop here.

Sa lta & th e A n d e a n N o rth w e s t QSE autletibnarg&adJau jdueyHPurmoavhi nucaecsa handsome rooms with spacious bathrooms overpriced. Llama fillet in malbec sauce is a
share a veranda with great sierra views. popular choice.
Service is good, and it’s a peaceful place to
stay. Superior rooms are larger, with air-con, 88 Information
minibar and eye-catching modern styling.
Reliable, relaxing and comfortable. You get a There’s an ATM plaza-side.
discount at the restaurant on the plaza. Tourist Office (% 0388-490-8443; Florida
s/n; h7am-noon & 2-7pm, extended hours Jan
5 Eating & Feb) Just off the plaza. Opening unreliable.

Purmamarca’s best food is cooked by a char- 88 Getting There & Away
ismatic chef called Gabriel, who was due to
open a new place on Lavalle, half a block up- Buses run to Jujuy (AR$45, 1¼ hours) or Tilcara
hill from the plaza: ask around. (from AR$10.50, 30 minutes) and Humahuaca
(from AR$33, 1¼ hours). You can walk or get a
Bramasole NORTHWEST ARGENTINE $ cab (AR$20) to the main road junction where
(Libertad s/n; mains AR$80-120; hnoon-4pm & more buses pass.
7-11pm; W) With a pleasantly modern inte-
rior, this spot run by a helpful local couple Purmamarca has no gas station; the closest
is worth stopping at. Delicious hand-cut can be found 25km north, at Tilcara. Westward,
empanadas, locro that’s given a boost for the nearest is in Susques, a 130km climb away.
the eyes and tastebuds with the addition of South, the closest at time of research was Jujuy
(62km).

spring onion, and various llama dishes are Tilcara
all very toothsome.
% 0388 / POP 4400 / ELEV 2461M
Tierra de Colores NORTHWEST ARGENTINE $
(Libertad s/n; mains AR$60-110; hnoon-4:30pm Picturesque Tilcara is many people’s choice
& 7-11:30pm) A likeably rustic dining area as their Quebrada de Humahuaca base. The
with cane ceiling is a venue for delicious tra- mixture of local farmers getting on with a
ditional food, served in generous portions. centuries-old way of life and arty urban
Juicy tamales, tasty locro and sizable llama refugees looking for a quieter existence has
brochettes are the go. Service is pleasant, created an interesting balance on the town’s
and there’s touristy but enjoyable live music. dusty streets. A forest of boutique hotels and
lots of hostels mean accommodations are
El Churqui de Altura NORTHWEST ARGENTINE $$ plentiful.
(Salta s/n; mains AR$100-160; hnoon-3:30pm
& 7:30-10:30pm; W) At the top of town, this 1 Sights
place has dishes of local trout, goat or llama
stews and oven-cooked empanadas that Pucará RUIN
are pretty tasty, though the wines are a bit
(admission incl Museo Arqueológico foreigner/­
Argentine AR$50/25, Mon free; h9am-6pm) This

T Tours 253

reconstructed pre-Columbian fortification Operators around town run trips around the
is 1km south of the center across an iron Quebrada and Salinas Grandes. A recom-
bridge. Its situation is strategic, command- mended guide for the spectacular multiday
ing the river valley both ways and, though trek to Parque Nacional Calilegua is Juan
the site was undoubtedly used earlier, the Pablo Maldonado (%0388-15-504-5322).
ruins date from the 11th to 15th centuries.
There are great views and, seemingly, a oCaravana de Llamas TREKKING
cardón cactus for every soul that lived and
died here. For further succulent stimulation, (%0388-15-408-8000; www.caravanadellamas.
there’s a botanic garden by the entrance. com; Belgrano s/n) S A highly recommended
llama-trekking operator running 90-minute
The 1950s reconstruction has taken (US$25), half-day (US$50 to US$70) and
liberties; worse yet is the earlier, ridiculous full- or multiday (US$100 per day) excur-
monument to pioneering archaeologists sions of varying difficulty around Tilcara,
bang where the plaza would have been. Purmamarca and Salinas Grandes. The
Nevert­heless, you can get a feel of what guide is personable and well informed about
would have been a sizable fortified commu- the area. Llamas are pack animals: you
nity. Most interesting is the ‘church,’ a build- walk; they carry the bags. Drop by to meet
ing with a short paved walkway to an altar; the llamas (US$8) opposite the tourist office.
note the niche in the wall alongside.

Museo Arqueológico MUSEUM Runa Tour CULTURAL TOUR

(Belgrano 445; admission incl Pucará foreigner/ (%0388-495-5388; www.runatour.tur.ar; Belgrano
Argentine AR$50/25, Mon free; h9am-6pm) This
well-presented collection of regional arti- 481; 1-/2-/3-day excursions US$200/350/400) Sa lta & th e A n d e a n N o rth w e s t QSA acultetibvari t&aideJasu jdueyHPurmoavhi nucaecsa
S Locally run, this operator offers interest-
facts in a striking colonial house has some ing excursions to indigenous communities,
pieces from the pucará fortification just
south of the center, and exhibits give an where you learn about corn and quinoa culti-
vation and visit archaeological sites. You can
insight into the life of people living around combine this with a horse-ride or drive to the
that time (from the 11th to 15th centuries).
The room dedicated to ceremonial masks is spectacular Serranía de Hornocal (p258), a
jagged row of rock ‘teeth.’ Another option
particularly impressive. takes you over the mountains and down to

2 Activities the Yungas, combining riding and driving, or
just riding.

You’ll see phone numbers for cabalgatas z Festivals & Events
(horseback rides) everywhere; most accom-
modations can arrange these. Guides for Tilcara celebrates several festivals during the
walks around the area congregate at the year, the most notable of which, apart from
tourist office. Carnaval, is January’s Enero Tilcareño,
which features sports, music and cultural
Garganta del Diablo HIKING activities. August’s indigenous Pachamama
(Mother Earth) festival is also worthwhile.
(admission AR$15) Of several interesting Til-
cara walks, most popular is the 4km hike to
Garganta del Diablo, a pretty canyon leading 4 Sleeping
to a waterfall. Walk toward the pucará, 1km
south of the center across an iron bridge, but There’s a huge variety of accommodations,
turn left along the river before crossing the with numerous upmarket boutique hotels
bridge. Swimming is best in the morning, and dozens of simple hostels, guesthouses
when the sun is on the pool. You can also and good-value rooms in private homes (the
reach it by road. tourist office keeps a list of these).

Bicicletería Carlitos BICYCLE RENTAL oLa Casa del Indio GUESTHOUSE $
(%0388-15-862526; www.argentinaturismo.com.
(Tilcara Mountain Bike; %0388-15-500-8570; ar/casadelindio; Ambrosetti s/n; d/tr US$50/65;
[email protected]; Belgrano s/n; per hr/
day US$3.50/15; h9am-7pm) A friendly setup W) It would be difficult to find more charm-
ing hosts than the young couple that run
about 100m past the bus terminal that hires this appealing place, which consists of two
out well-maintained mountain bikes and
provides a helpful map of trips in the area. rooms off a sweet little courtyard beside the
family home. Simple and traditional in style,
with some attractive stonework, it offers

254 brada views and a remote, relaxing feel. The
tranquillity, independence and comfort, as standard cabins are compact but handsome,
well as a relaxingly wild garden. set amid a lovely hillside garden, and the
Can be tricky to find: go straight up the pool area is a great little spot. Turn left after
hill from the bus terminal and turn third the bridge into Tilcara and follow the signs.
right. Three-night minimum stay usually applies.

Albahaca Hostel HOSTEL $ oPatio Alto
(%0388-15-585-5994; www.albahacahostel.com.
ar; Padilla s/n; dm/d US$9/25; W) Simple but HOTEL, HOSTEL $$
(%0388-495-5792; www.patioalto.com.ar; Torrico
well priced and very friendly, with decent 675; dm/s/d US$34/124/143; iWc) Great
dorms, comfortable private rooms and a so-
ciable roof terrace. A place to make friends. vistas from the coziness of your large bed
are the highlight of the handsome modern
rooms at this top-of-the-town hotel. A good
La Calabaza CABAÑAS $ breakfast, afternoon tea and other thought-
(%0388-495-5169; www.calabazatilcara.com.ar;
Sarahuaico s/n; d/q US$65/135; Wc) Set above ful details are included. There’s also an up-
market dorm that is every bit as nice as the
an orchard-garden across the main road from rooms, with four single beds, cane lockers
the center, this cute spot has a casual hippy
vibe and very friendly welcome. The view: and kitchen use; the only thing missing is
the view.
just spectacular. There’s a cabin with kitch-
en sleeping four, perfect for a family, and an
adorable little double with views from the Antigua Tilcara GUESTHOUSE, HOSTEL $$
(%0388-527-3805; www.antiguatilcara.com.ar; Sor­
bed and tea/coffee facilities. Three-night min- presa 484; dm US$25, d standard US$81, d superior
imum stay in summer. Breakfast extra.
Sa lta & th e A n d e a n N o rth w e s t SQlauleetebapri&andgJau jdueyHPurmoavhi nucaecsa US$88-92; iW) S Run with real enthusi-
asm and offering a genuine welcome, this
Malka GUESTHOUSE, HOSTEL $ excellent place has a spacious dorm with
(%0388-495-5197; www.malkahostel.com.ar; San
Martín 129; dm/s/d US$25/45/80, 4-person cabin single beds and two grades of room, both
handsome. Superiors are worth the small in-
US$190; iW) S This rustic complex is both vestment for extra space and views. There’s
guesthouse and hostel. The secluded, shady
situation, thoughtfully different dorms, and a great cafe-bar area with vistas, cracking
breakfasts, a small kitchen, and various sus-
smart stone-clad rooms with hammocks and tainable practices are in place.
deck chairs make it the sort of retreat where
you end up staying longer than expected. A
yoga and meditation room and courses are Con los Ángeles LODGE $$
(%0388-495-5153; www.posadaconlosangeles.
further reasons to linger. Good breakfast in- com.ar; Gorriti 156; d standard/superior US$98/118;
cluded and HI discount.
Dorms have key lockers and a spacious iWc) The lovely, extensive grassy garden,
complete with sun loungers, comes as a
kitchen. Facing the church, head left for a surprise after the street. Warmly run by a
block, then turn right and follow this road.
friendly young family, this lodge features
stylish common areas and thoughtfully dec-
oPosada de Luz LODGE $$ orated king-bedded rooms arrayed along the
(%0388-495-5017; www.posadadeluz.com.ar;
Ambrosetti 661; r US$105-143; iWsc) With lawn. Dinners are available for guests.

a nouveau-rustic charm, this little place is a Gaia Habitaciones
fantastic spot to unwind for a few days. The
pricier rooms have sitting areas, but all fea- Boutique BOUTIQUE HOTEL $$
(%0388-15-414-0833; www.gaiatilcara.com.ar; Bel­
ture adobe walls, cane ceilings, pot-bellied grano 472; s/d/q US$60/83/140; W) Right in
stoves and individual terraces with deck
chairs and views out over the valley. Pretty the center, this nevertheless offers seclusion
in its upstairs rooms that overlook a court-
grounds include a barbecue area and chil- yard dominated by a lovely peppercorn tree.
dren’s playground; excellent personal ser-
vice is a real highlight. It’s run by a friendly young family and sweet
adobe-style chambers offer stylishly rustic
decor, sizable showers and free tea and cof-
oCerro Chico CABAÑAS $$ fee (and no TV, for better relaxation).
(%0388-495-5744; www.cerrochico.com; d/q
US$100/120; Ws) Two kilometers from
town down a dirt road, this attractively rus- Aguacanto LODGE $$
(%0388-495-5817; www.aguacanto.com.ar; Corte
tic complex climbs a hill, with gorgeous Que- 333; d/4-person apt US$88/170; W) Spruce

rooms and apartments surround a lawn fea- 255
turing hammocks and one of Tilcara’s most and homemade pastas and pizzas. Service
amazing views. Service is very friendly. Pric- is caring.
es drop off-season.
88 Information
5 Eating
Tourist Office (Belgrano 366; h 8am-9pm
oMa’koka CAFE $ Mon-Fri, 9am-1pm & 2-9pm Sat, 9am-1pm Sun)
(Belgrano s/n; sandwiches AR$45-65; h8:30am- Has information on walks. Often open Sunday
9pm; Wv) S With a gloriously eclectic afternoons despite official hours. Conversely,
music mix and interesting texts on the area often not open when it’s supposed to be.
and the Andes in general, this excellent
bookstore-cafe has the best coffee in town, 88 Getting There & Away
tasty cakes and top sandwiches on bread
made from coca or local corn varieties. Great The bus terminal is on the main street, Belgrano;
choices for celiacs too, with manioc bread further services stop on the main road nearby.
and other treats. The owner is knowledgea- There are buses roughly every 45 minutes to
ble about indigenous Argentina. Jujuy (AR$45, 1½ hours) and north to Humahua-
ca (AR$20, 45 minutes) and La Quiaca (AR$90,
Peña de Carlitos NORTHWEST ARGENTINE $ three hours). Several daily buses hit Purmamar-
(Lavalle 397; dishes AR$55-80; h10am-midnight; ca (AR$10.50, 30 minutes) and Salta (AR$122,
W) This cheery, long-standing local restau- 3½ hours).
rant where the scrawls of happy customers
adorn the walls offers live folkloric music Around Tilcara
with no cover charge from 9:30pm every Sa lta & th e A n d e a n N o rth w e s t QSE autletibnarg&adJau jdueyHPurmoavhi nucaecsa
night. There’s more of a mix of locals and Maimará, 8km south of Tilcara, is a typi-
visitors than in most places, and low-priced cal adobe valley settlement set beneath the
OK-quality regional dishes. Try the llama spectacular and aptly named Paleta del Pin-
empanadas. tor (Painter’s Palette) hill. Its hillside ceme-
tery is a surprising sight with a picturesque
oEl Nuevo Progreso ARGENTINE $$ backdrop, but the friendly village has more
(%0388-495-5237; Lavalle 351; mains AR$105- to offer, with decent accommodations and a
160; h6-11:30pm Mon-Sat; v) An engaging winery.
atmosphere and delicious tourist-oriented
cuisine features imaginatively prepared lla- Part of a chain that ran from Lima to Bue-
ma dishes, excellent meat plates, interesting nos Aires during viceregal times, Posta de
veggie options and great salads. Service can Hornillos (admission AR$10; h9am-6pm) is a
be a bit stand-offish but it’s well worthwhile. beautifully restored staging post 11km south
Book at weekends. of Tilcara. The interesting exhibits include
leather suitcases, some impressively fierce
El Patio ARGENTINE $$ swords and a fine 19th-century carriage.
(%0388-495-5044; Lavalle 352; mains AR$100-
170; h11:30am-3:30pm & 7-11:30pm Wed-Mon; Uquía
v) Tucked away between plaza and church,
this has a lovely shaded patio, garden seat- % 03887 / POP 500 / ELEV 2818M
ing and a cozy interior. It offers a wide range
of tasty salads, inventive llama dishes and a It’s not often that you imagine the heavenly
far-from-the-madding-crowd atmosphere. host armed with muzzle-loading weapons,
Presentation and quantity could be better, but in this roadside village’s picturesque
but quality is good. The llama brochettes are 17th-century church (admission by dona-
great. tion; h10am-noon & 2-4pm) that’s just what
you see. A restored collection of Cuzco-­
Arumi NORTHWEST ARGENTINE $$ school paintings – the ángeles arcabuceros
(Lavalle 660; mains AR$85-170; h7pm-midnight (arquebus-w­ ielding angels) – features Gabri-
Tue-Sun; W) Art on the walls, regular live el, Uriel et al putting their trust in God but
events and a comfortably attractive evening keeping their powder dry. There’s also a gilt
ambience are allied with highland ingredi- altarpiece with fine painted panels. Follow
ents of good quality here. Delicious tamales the road uphill past the church, keep going
and pleasingly honest stews take their place past the cemetery, and you’ll reach the Que-
alongside tasty llama and beef with sauces brada de las Señoritas and beautiful orange
rock formations.

To eat, head three blocks uphill and turn
left. Cerro La Señorita (Viltipoco s/n; mains

256 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd DEMETRIO CARRASCO/GETTY IMAGES ©

Quebrada de GRAFISSIMO/GETTY IMAGES©
Humahuaca

The tortured rockscapes and palette of
mineral colors that changes through the
day make this arid valley a highlight of
the northwest. Exploring the indigenous
villages and towns strung along it is a
delight.

Iruya

A long, rickety drive over a spectacular
mountain pass, this remote village
preserves a traditional and indigenous
feel. Surrounded by imposing cliffs and
mountains, it’s a place whose slow pace
obliges you to step off the frenzied wheel
for a day or three (p259).

Purmamarca

This small town is dominated by its
surrounding crags, which feature some
of the valley’s most vibrant mineral
colorings. The focus of things here is the
great artisan market on the square (p251).

Tilcara

A range of excellent small hotels,
stunning landscapes, excursions and the
cactus-studded ruins of an indigenous
fortress make this a favorite base in the
Quebrada (p252).

Humahuaca

The valley’s largest town has an authentic
feel and makes a good base for the
region. Picturesque cobbled streets, fair-
trade handcrafts and typical northwestern
dishes, such as locro or llama stew are
highlights (p258).

Uquía

This village has the region’s standout
church, a beautiful 17th-century structure
whose interior famously features
paintings of the main angels packing
muzzle-loading weaponry (p255).

Clockwise from top left

1. Iruya 2. Market, Purmamarca
3. Pucará (p252), Tilcara 4. Local fabrics

257 YADID LEVY/ROBERTHARDING/GETTY IMAGES © DANITA DELIMONT/GETTY IMAGES ©

258 central and offers appealingly cozy dorms
AR$85-140; h8am-9pm) S is a bastion of de- around a small patio. It’s an involved, so-
licious home cooking and baking, all using cial place with a decent kitchen and a good
fresh produce from the garden, which the vibe. Everything is very clean and well run.
small dining area overlooks. There’s one private room – an en suite
double.
Humahuaca
oHostal La Soñada GUESTHOUSE $
% 03887 / POP 8000 / ELEV 2989M (%03887-421228; www.hostallasoniada.com; San
Martín s/n; d/q US$50/70; iW) Just across the
The Quebrada de Humahuaca’s largest tracks from the center, this is run by a kind-
settlem­ ent is also its most handsome, with ly local couple and features eight spotless
atmospheric cobblestoned streets, adobe rooms with colorful bedspreads and good
houses and quaint plazas. You can feel the bathrooms. Rooms surround a pretty court-
nearby puna here, with chilly nights, sparse yard. Breakfast is served in the attractive
air and a quiet indigenous population. Hu- common area, and guests are made to feel
mahuaca is less altered by tourism than the very welcome.
towns further south, though there are good
handicrafts shops, and folk musicians strum Hostal El Coquena HOTEL $
and sing in the restaurants. (%0388-15-480-0384; hostalelcoquena@hotmail.
com; Tres Sargentos s/n; r US$60; W) Just across
1 Sights & Activities the bridge from the center, this is quiet and
cordially run by a welcoming couple. It’s at-
Built in 1641, Humahuaca’s Iglesia de la tractively spacious, with plenty of room to
Sa lta & th e A n d e a n N o rth w e s t QS iauglehtbtars&a&dJauAjcduteyi vHPiutrmioeavshi nucaecsa Candelaria faces Plaza Gómez. Nearby, move in the common area, wide covered
the lovably knobbly cabildo (Plaza Gómez) gallery, sizable rooms and very ample bath-
is famous for its clock tower, where a life- rooms. Breakfast is tasty, and there’s a kitch-
size figure of San Francisco Solano emerges en guests can use. A good deal and, though
at noon to deliver a benediction. From the not luxurious, Humahuaca’s best hotel.
plaza, a staircase climbs to the rather vulgar
Monumento a la Independencia.

oSerranía de Hornocal MOUNTAIN El Sol HOSTEL $

Twenty-five kilometers east of Humahuaca, (%03887-421466; www.elsolhosteldehumahuaca.
this jagged row of rock ‘teeth’ offers utterly
spectacular colors. Tours run here but it’s com; Barrio Milagrosa s/n; dm US$15, d with/with-
out bathroom US$65/40; iW) In a peaceful
driveable in a normal car with care. It’s pret- location, signposted 800m across the river
tiest from 4pm onward, when the western bridge, this appealing adobe hostel has a
sun brings out vivid hues. Turn left straight variety of quirky dorm rooms with lockers,
after crossing the bridge and follow this and really pretty doubles (size varies sub-
spectacular road (veer left 3km along for a stantially) under traditional cane ceilings.
short stretch of better road), which climbs to Some dorms are cramped, but the tranquilli-
a 4000m pass. Here, head right for 1.7km to ty makes up for it. Kitchen use and breakfast
the viewpoint, near a phone mast. are included, and there are HI discounts.

z Festivals & Events Posada La Churita GUESTHOUSE $
(%03887-421055; Buenos Aires 456; r per person
Humahuaca observes February 2 as the day US$15) Run by warm-hearted and motherly
of its patron, the Virgen de Candelaria. Olga, this is one of a few unheated cheapies

4 Sleeping on this street. In theory the rooms – spick
and span, with individual beds – are dorms,
The boutique hotel boom hasn’t yet hit Hu- but you may well get one to yourself. Shared
mahuaca, which keeps it real with cheap bathrooms are clean and the hot water’s re-
family-run accommodations and budget liable. Guests have use of the kitchen and a
hotels. Prices rise for Carnaval and drop out- common area.
side of summer. Also runs a sister establishment that of-

oLa Humahuacasa HOSTEL $ fers OK rooms with bathroom and parking.

(%0388-15-412-0868; www.humahuacasa.com. Hostería Naty GUESTHOUSE $
ar; Buenos Aires 740; dm/d US$15/50; W) Artis- (%03887-421022; www.hosterianaty.com.ar; Bue-
tic, superwelcoming and personable, this is nos Aires 488; s/d US$33/39; W) In the heart

259

of town, this has friendly management and 88 Getting There & Away
dark, simple but comfortable rooms of vary­
ing shapes and sizes at a fair price. The The bus terminal (cnr Belgrano & Entre Ríos)
ones around the outside patio are quieter. is three blocks south of the plaza. There are
Breakfast is included and there’s parking regular buses to Salta (AR$148, 4½ hours),
round the back. The owners are good sourc- Jujuy (AR$66, 2¼ hours) and La Quiaca (AR$60,
es of information on what to see and do two to three hours). There are three to four daily
around town. buses to Iruya (AR$60, three hours).

5 Eating & Drinking Iruya

Most places offer a very competitive lunch- % 03887 / POP 1100 / ELEV 2780M
time set meal for AR$60 to AR$90.
There’s something magical about Iruya,
Aisito NORTHWEST ARGENTINE $ a remote village just 46km from the main
(Buenos Aires 435; mains AR$50-90; h11am- road but a world away in other respects. It
3pm & 7-11pm) Warmly decorated and bless- makes a great destination for a few days
ed with caring service, this is a pleasing for proper appreciation of the Quebrada de
option for well-priced local cuisine. Tasty Humah­ uaca region away from the highway.
baked empanadas take their place alongside There’s some epic hiking around the town.
well-blended stir-fries and succulent llama.
There’s excellent live music at weekends, The journey is worthwhile in itself. Turn-
and nightly in summer. ing off RN 9, 26km north of Humahuaca, the
ripio road ascends to a spectacular 4000m
Mikunayoc NORTHWEST ARGENTINE $ pass at the Jujuy–Salta provincial boundary. Sa lta & th e A n d e a n N o rth w e s t SQE autletibnarg&a&dJauDjrduei nykHPui rnmogavhi nucaecsa
(cnr Corrientes & Tucumán; mains AR$50-110; Here, there’s a massive apacheta (travelers’
h11am-3:30pm) The wide-ranging menu cairn). Plastic bottles are from liquid offer-
here includes several interesting llama dish- ings to Pachamama.
es, cordial service and a range of empanadas
with intriguing fillings. The salads are also You then wind down a spectacular valley
a good bet. It’s a pleasant, colorful place so and eventually reach Iruya, home to a pretty
you can forgive the odd lapses. yellow-and-blue church, steep streets, adobe
houses and breathtaking mountainscapes
Pacha Manka NORTHWEST ARGENTINE $$ (with soaring condors). It’s an indigenous
(Buenos Aires 457; mains AR$80-160; h11:30am- community with fairly traditional values, so
3pm & 7pm-midnight; v) One of the town’s bet- respect is called for.
ter restaurants, this has a cozy atmosphere
and a range of traditional cuisine pepped up There’s a bank with ATM, gas station and
with a few innovations. There are some very internet places.
appealing flavors here – the llama pickled
in wine and onion is excellent, and several 2 Activities
mains come with an pleasing medley of stir-
fried vegetables. Hiking and learning about local culture are
two major attractions, and it’s easy to com-
7 Shopping bine them with walks to indigenous com-
munities such as San Isidro (two hours) or
The handicrafts market, near the defunct San Juan (four hours). Both have appealing
train station, has woolen goods, souvenirs overnighting possibilities with local fami-
and atmosphere. Near the plaza, Manos lies. Guides are available in Iruya for these
Andinas (Buenos Aires 401; h8am-noon & 3:30- and longer treks.
8pm) S sells fair-trade artesanía.
4 Sleeping

There are many cheap accommodations in
people’s homes, costing around US$5 per
person in a private room.

88 Information Milmahuasi HOSTEL $
(%0387-15-445-7994; www.milmahuasi.com; Salta
The tourist office (Plaza Gómez s/n; h7am- s/n; dm/s/d US$16/42/72; iW) S This hostel
9pm Mon-Fri, 9am-9pm Sat & Sun) is in the ca- and guesthouse is brilliantly run by people
bildo (municipal building); there’s an ATM also on with a real passion for Iruya. Well-traveled
Plaza Gómez. The tourist office on the highway Víctor can explain anything from the best
is shut, but young rascals outside sell pamphlets hikes to the local geology: ask about the wi-
that the other office gives out for free.

fi project. Both dorms and private rooms are

260 88 Getting There & Away
spotless and rustically attractive, with great,
comfortable mattresses. Good breakfast is Buses from Humahuaca (AR$60, three hours)
included, and evening vegetarian specials leave three to four times daily; there is also
are offered, along with chats on the cultural service from Tilcara (AR$80, four hours) and
background. HI discount. Jujuy (AR$100, five hours).

Hostería Iruya HOTEL $$ The ripio road is often impassable in summer
(%03887-482002; www.hoteliruya.com; San due to rain. You’ll regularly see villagers hitch-
Martín 641; s/d US$82/109, with view US$100/117; hiking – a good way to meet locals.

W) At the top of the town, this place has
simple, light white rooms with wide beds,
a spacious common area and a picturesque La Quiaca
stone terrace with memorable views. It’s
worth the extra cash for the big-windowed % 03885 / POP 13,800 / ELEV 3442M
rooms with valley vistas. There’s a decent
restaurant. Truly the end of the line, La Quiaca is 5171km
north of Ushuaia, and a major crossing point
5 Eating to Bolivia. It’s a cold, windy place that has
decent places to stay, but little to detain you.
Several simple eateries serve local cuisine.
After leaving the Quebrada de Humahua-
oComedor Iruya NORTHWEST ARGENTINE $ ca, paved RN 9 passes through Abra Pampa,
(Comedor Tina; %0388-15-404-3606; mains a windy town 90km north of Humah­ uaca,
AR$50-60; h11am-4pm & 8pm-midnight Mon, Tue, and climbs through picturesque and typical
Sa lta & th e A n d e a n N o rth w e s t ELSatlQti nuagi &acJau j u y P r o v i nces Thu & Fri, 11am-4pm & 10:15pm-midnight Wed, Sat altiplano landscapes. Look for vicuñas off
& Sun) By far the best place to eat in town is main routes.
this local favorite on the road into town just
before the gas station. Genial Juan and Tina La Quiaca is divided by its defunct train
tracks; most services are west of them.
North of town, a bridge crosses the river to
Villazón, Bolivia.

serve delicious home-style meat and salad 4 Sleeping & Eating
dishes in a cozy atmosphere. It’s an absolute
bargain. If they’ve just baked empanadas,
grab as many as you can eat. Hostel El Apolillo HOSTEL $
(%03885-422388; http://elapolillohostel.blogspot.
com; Árabe Siria 146; dm/d US$15/45; iW) S
This traveler’s rest is conscientiously run by
a cordial couple, and has a colorful patio,
BOLIVIA VIA LA QUIACA comfortable dorms, a good kitchen area and
a very cozy en suite private room. It makes an
From La Quiaca to Villazón, Bolivia, walk ecological effort, with solar heating and other
or take a taxi to the bridge, then clear sustainable practices, and there’s a pool table.
immigration (open 24 hours). Bolivia
is much nicer than Villazón promises, Copacabana Hostel GUESTHOUSE $
so head past the cut-price stalls and (%03885-423875; www.hostelcopacabana.com.ar;
straight to the bus terminal or train Pellegrini 141; r per person without bathroom US$15;
station. Cheap but reliable accommo- iW) Across the tracks and a block up the
dations are near the bus terminal and street with Banco de la Nación on the corner,
plaza if you need. Buses and minibuses this place decked out in pinks, reds and ochers
head to Tupiza (1½ hours), La Paz (20 offers small, rather sweet heated rooms with
hours) and elsewhere. The train station shared bathrooms and amiable staff. Ongoing
(see www.fca.com.bo for timetables) is renovations are constantly improving this at-
1.5km north of the border, and serves tractive place. Handily, the staff can reserve
Tupiza (three hours), Uyuni (six hours) Bolivian trains for you. HI discount.
and beyond. Bolivia is one hour behind
northern Argentina. For a quick Villazón Hostería Munay HOTEL $
visit, clear Argentine immigration but (%03885-423924; www.munayhotel.com.ar; Bel-
don’t get stamped into Bolivia (techni­ grano 51; s/d US$44/68; W) Set back from the
call­y illegal but nobody minds). La Quia- pedestrian street (you can still drive in), this
ca has a Bolivian consulate (%03885- is a decent option, with heated rooms dec-
422283; www.consuladoboliviano.com.ar; 9 orated with artesanía. You can often nego-
de Julio 100; h7am-6:30pm Mon-Fri). tiate a discount. It’s not wonderful but has
about the best hotel rooms in town.

261

Hotel de Turismo HOTEL $ built Yavi’s church in the late 17th century
(%0388-423390; [email protected]; cnr is a museum. It displays beautifully restored
Árabe Siria & San Martín; s/d US$35/50; iW) furniture, exhibits on puna life and has a
Long in decline but acceptable (and there charming library.
are rumors of renovation), this hotel offers
adequate heated rooms with parquet floors 4 Sleeping & Eating
and decent bathrooms. The restaurant
(mains AR$90 to AR$130) is the town’s most As well as a decent campground by the muse-
reliable option, amid scant competition. um, Yavi has several simple accommodations.

88 Information La Casona HOSTEL, GUESTHOUSE $
(% 03885-425148; [email protected];
Change money on the Bolivian side of the border cnr Pérez & San Martín; dm US$9, d with/without
or at the bus terminal. bathroom US$35/25; W) Simple but likable,
Information Kiosk (Av España s/n; h10am- this traveler favorite has rustic rooms (with
1pm & 4-8pm) Run by a hostel, this offers stoves for winter nights) around the back
decent information opposite the bus terminal. courtyard, and offers a friendly welcome.
A bar and handicrafts store with gnarled
wooden floors is out front. This is the most
88 Getting There & Away reliable spot for information.

The chaotic bus terminal (cnr Belgrano & Hostería Pachamá GUESTHOUSE $
España) has frequent connections to Jujuy (%03885-423235; www.pachamahosteria.net;
(AR$110, four to five hours), Salta (AR$240, cnr Pérez & RN 5; s/d US$15/30; W) At the en-
7½ hours) and (good-value) Buenos Aires trance to town, with rather charming rooms Sa lta & th e A n d e a n N o rth w e s t IYTnaufvcoiurmmáant i&o nA r o u nd
(AR$1200, 24 to 28 hours). There is no trans- set around an adobe courtyard, and a pretty
portation to Bolivia, but a few Argentine long-­ eating area. Should have wi-fi by the time
distance buses leave directly from the bus you read this.
station over the border in Villazón.

Yavi 88 Getting There & Away

% 03885 / POP 200 / ELEV 3440M Five buses run Monday to Saturday from La
Quiaca (AR$10, 20 minutes), leaving from the
Picturesque, indigenous Yavi, 16km east of school on Av Hipólito Yrigoyen. Shared remises
La Quiaca on a good road, is a great detour (AR$15, 20 minutes) leave from the nearby
and a lazy little hideaway, with the tumble- Mercado Municipal once full.
down romanticism of its adobe-lined streets
and two fascinating colonial-era buildings. TUCUMÁN & AROUND
There’s no phone signal so relaxation is easy.
Though the country’s second-smallest prov-
1 Sights & Activities ince, Tucumán has played a significant role
in Argentina’s story. It was here that inde-
Local walks can take you to even smaller, pendence was first declared, and the mas-
rural Yavi Chico or along the river to see sive sugar industry is of great economic
cave paintings. A longer excursion heads to importance.
pretty Laguna Colorada.
Tucumán city is full of heat and energy,
oIglesia de San Francisco de Asís CHURCH in complete contrast to the lung-cleansing
air of Tafí del Valle, up in the hills. Beyond,
(Marqués Campero s/n; admission by donation; Argentina’s most important pre-Columbian
h9am-1pm & 2-6pm) Built by the local mar- site is Quilmes, on the Cafayate road. South
quis in the late 17th century, Yavi’s intriguing of Tucumán province, Santiago del Estero is
church – one of northern Argentina’s most a backwater with an enjoyably sleepy feel.
fascinating – preserves stunning altarpieces
in sober baroque style, covered in gold leaf Tucumán
and adorned with excellent paintings and
sculptures, mostly from the Cuzco school. % 0381 / POP 864,700 (URBAN AREA) / ELEV 420M
The translucent onyx windows also stand out.
Baking hot, energetic and brash, (San Miguel
Casa del Marqués Campero MUSEUM de) Tucumán, the cradle of Argentine inde-
pendence, is the nation’s fifth-largest city
(Museo Histórico Provincial; Marqués Campero
s/n; admission AR$10; h8am-1pm & 2-6:30pm)
Alongside the house of the marquis who

262 B C D

Tucumán
A

Estación Plaza
1 £# Ferrocarril Urquiza
û# Santa Fe
Mitre 19 ú#
Plaza
Alberdi Marcos 14
Paz
Suipacha 18
Marcos Avellaneda Corrientes
û# ú# 12
Colombres
Catamarca2 Córdoba 4 ÿ# Santiago del Estero
SaltaMendoza 11
Junín ú# ú# 8
MaipúSan Martín
3 Av 24 de Septiembre
Muñecas
25 de MayoCrisóstomo Álvarez
LapridaSan Lorenzo
Virgen de la Merced4 Las Piedras
Monteagudo
Balcarce
û# San Juan

16

10 ú# 13
ò#
ú#
7 ÿ#
17 ü# Córdoba

Iglesia San
Francisco
Ü# Mendoza

Sa lta & th e A n d e a n N o rth w e s t TS ui gchutmsán & A r o u nd 2 ú##ï#CG1aoC5sbaÜ#aiteedrdneroal5ú#9ÿ#AvÜ#2LI4galdeMseSieaSracenepdMtieamrtíbnre 6

â# ÿ#
Basílica
Santo
Jujuy Domingo
Ayacucho Ü# 1 â#
Chacabuco
Buenos Aires
9 de Julio
Congreso
Las Heras
Entre Ríos
Moreno
Av Sáenz Peña
# 3 Crisóstomo Álvarez

ABCD

and feels like it; the metropolitan bustle can Economic crises have hit hard in the past,
come as quite a shock compared with oth- but sugarcane’s increasing use as a fuel
er more genteel northwestern capitals. You source keeps locals optimistic.
may prefer it at night, when the fumes and
heat of the day have lulled, and cafes and 1 Sights
bars come to life.
Casa de la Independencia MUSEUM
Tucumán’s blue-collar feel and down-to-
earthness is complemented by a lively cul- (Casa Histórica; Congreso 151; adult/child AR$30/
tural scene. There’s world-class parag­ liding free; h10am-6pm) Unitarist lawyers and
and hang gliding, too, in the hills west clerics declared Argentina’s independence
of town. from Spain on July 9, 1816, in this late-­
colonial mansion. Portraits of the signa-
History tories line the walls of the original room.
There’s plenty of information in Spanish on
Founded in 1565 Tucumán hosted the con- the lead-up to this seismic event, and Eng-
gress that declared Argentine independence lish guided tours (free) are available. There’s
in 1816. Unlike other northwestern colonial a sound-and-light show nightly except
cities, it successfully reoriented its economy Thursdays; entry is AR$10/5 per adult/child.
after independence. At the southern end of Get tickets at the tourist office.
the sugarcane zone, it was close enough to Alongside the building are areas with
Buenos Aires to take advantage of the capi- handicrafts stalls and stands selling tradi-
tal’s growing market. From 1874 the railway tional foods.
facilitated transportation and rapid growth.

263

e# 0 400 m Tucumán
0 0.2 miles
E F æ Sights
1 Casa de la Independencia................... C4
PL Garcia Av Gobernador del Campo 1 2 Museo Folclórico Manuel
Belgrano ..............................................C3

Ø Activities, Courses & Tours
3 Turismo del Tucumán ......................... C4

Av Avellaneda E Unidos ÿ Sleeping
Av Los PróceresHonduras 4 A La Gurda .............................................B2
Haití 5 Hotel Bicentenario............................... C4
6 Hotel Colonial ........................................D3
Cuba Parque 9 7 Tucumán Center ...................................C3
A Jacques de Julio
Francia 2
Av Soldati ú Eating
8 Cilantro...................................................D2
9 El Portal..................................................C3
10 Il Postino ................................................C2
11 La Leñita.................................................C2
12 La Sirio-Libanesa ..................................C2
13 Mi Nueva Estancia ................................C2
14 Setimio ................................................... C1

3 15 Shitake .................................................. C4

û Drinking & Nightlife
16 Costumbres Argentinas.......................C2
17 Filipo .......................................................C3
18 Managua ................................................A2
19 Plaza de Almas ...................................... C1
Sa lta & th e A n d e a n N o rth w e s t T ou cu ursmán & A r o u nd
Brígido Terán Av Benjamín Aráoz 4 Montañas Tucumanas OUTDOORS
Av Papa
›# Francisco (%0381-15-467-1860; www.montanastucumanas.
com) A cordial, professional setup offering
EF hiking, climbing, canyoning, rappelling and
more.

Museo Folclórico Manuel Belgrano MUSEUM Tucumán Parapente PARAGLIDING
(Av 24 de Septiembre 565; h9am-1pm & 5-9pm
Tue-Fri, 5-9pm Sat & Sun) F Occupying a co- (%0381-15-444-7508; www.tucumanparapente.
lonial house, this pleasant museum features com.ar) Excellent tandem paragliding flights
a good collection of traditional gaucho gear, over the Yungas forests, as well as instruc-
indigenous musical instruments (check out tion. One of many operators.
the armadillo charangos) and weavings, as
well as some pottery. Turismo del Tucumán TOUR

T Tours (%0381-422-7636; www.turismodeltucuman.com;
Crisóstomo Álvarez 360) Guided trips to spots
Tour operators offer excursions ranging of interest around the province, including
from sedate city strolls to canoeing, chal- the Yungas circuit (AR$360), Tafí del Valle
lenging hikes and paragliding; the city has (AR$450) and Quilmes (AR$690).
hosted the Paragliding World Cup. Most par-
agliding operators are based in San Javier in Carlos Castro HANG GLIDING
the hills to the west. The tourist office can
supply a fuller list. One worthwhile hike is (%0381-15-500-5273; [email protected])
the beautiful 72km trek from Tucumán to Recommended hang-gliding instructor of-
Tafí del Valle. Many do it in three days, but fering tandem flights (AR$1000 including
it’s mostly uphill, so four is more relaxed. instruction, flight and hotel transfers). Best
Find waypoints on www.wikiloc.com (search to book two or more days ahead.
for Yerba Buena-Tafí).
z Festivals & Events

Celebrations of the Día de la Independ­
encia (Argentina’s Independence Day) on

264

July 9 are vigorous. Tucumanos also cele- Hotel Bicentenario HOTEL $$
brate the Batalla de Tucumán (Battle of (%0381-431-9119; www.hotelbicentenario.com.ar;
Tucumán) on September 24. Las Heras 21; s/d US$85/95; aiWs) Some-
times you’re happy to give character a miss
4 Sleeping and just want a sparklingly clean, modern
hotel where the showers work, the beds are
A La Gurda HOSTEL $ comfortable, and there’s a rooftop pool, a
(%0381-497-6275; www.lagurdahostel.com.ar; sundeck and a gym. This is that place: it’s
Maipú 490; dm/s/d US$12/25/36, tw without bath- got all the facilities in an excellent central
room US$32; aiW) Upstairs in a lovely old location. Rooms are bland but good looking,
house, this very pleasant hostel does lots and service is genuinely helpful. The price
right. It offers eight-bed dorms with lockers is right, too.
and OK-value private bunk rooms with air-
con. There’s a pool table and excellent bath-
Eating
5room facilities, bar service and a kitchen;
everything’s spotless. Management is help- Tucumán is famous for its excellent eggy
ful and friendly. empanadas. The best are hand-cut: ask the
tourist office for a ‘Ruta de la Empanada’
Casa Calchaquí GUESTHOUSE $ leaflet to track down the tastiest.
(%0381-425-6974; www.casacalchaqui.com; Lola
Mora 92, Yerba Buena; d/q US$53/80, s/d without oMi Nueva Estancia
PARRILLA $
bathroom US$35/40; hMar-Jan; aiWsc) (Córdoba 401; mains AR$70-110; h11am-3pm &
Eight kilometers west of the center in up- 8pm-12:30am Mon-Thu, 11am-4pm & 8pm-1:30am
market Yerba Buena barrio, this is a wel- Fri-Sun; W) Delicious! That’s the verdict on
Sa lta & th e A n d e a n N o rth w e s t TS uleceupmiánng & A r o u nd come retreat. Comfortably rustic rooms the cuts of meat at this popular grill res-
surround a relaxing garden space with ham- taurant, but the salad bar and other menu
mocks, bar service and a mini-pool. Yerba choices also win points. Value is great here
Buena has good restaurants and nightlife. for both quality and quantity, and service is
Grab a taxi (AR$75) or bus 102 or 118 from friendly and efficient.
opposite the bus terminal.
The street is off Av Aconquija (at 1100): El Portal NORTHWEST ARGENTINE $
Banco Galicia is on the corner. Bikes are (Av 24 de Septiembre 351; empanadas AR$9, mains
available for hire. Ask about the guesthouse’s AR$60-90; hnoon-4pm & 8pm-midnight) Half
rustic accommodations in a spectacular off- a block east of Plaza Independencia, this
piste setting near Amaicha del Valle. rustic indoor-outdoor eatery has a tiny but
perfectly formed menu, based around em-
HOTEL $ panadas, locro and the like, supplemented
Hotel Colonial
(%0381-422-2738; www.hotelcolonialweb.com.ar; by some milanesas and pizzas. Delicious
San Martín 36; s/d US$35/56; aWs) If you and authentic.
can handle a few dated color schemes – the
milk-chocolate-brown toilets aren’t looking Il Postino ITALIAN $
as slick as they no doubt used to – this is a (cnr 25 de Mayo & Córdoba; pizza & pasta AR$55-
reliable and comfortable budget base. There 100; h7am-2am; Wv) Pizza and pasta are
is a touch of colonial to the decor of the served with panache in this atmospheric
public areas, and service is taken seriously. brick warehouse eatery. It’s popular with
There’s a pool in an annex across the street. everyone, and you often have to wait for
a table. It’s worth it: the standard (of the
oTucumán Center HOTEL $$ pizza especially) is sky-high. It also serves
(%0381-452-5555; www.tucumancenterhotel.com. tapas-sized snacks. There’s another branch
ar; 25 de Mayo 230; s/d US$109/125; aiWs) nearby at Junín 86.
It’s hard to fault this upmarket business-­
class hotel that’s bang in the center. Service Shitake VEGETARIAN $
and facilities – including an outdoor pool (9 de Julio 94; all-you-can-eat AR$70; h11:30am-
and access to a proper gym just down the 3:30pm & 7:30pm-1am Mon-Sat; Wv) With a
road – are first-rate, and the huge beds are tasty array of vegetarian dishes in its buffet,
mighty comfortable. Suites come with space this small, well-run spot gives value for
to spare and a bathtub with bubbles. Excel- money. Pizzas, empanadas, soy milanesas
lent value. and much more are on offer. Drinks are ex-
tra. You can also take out, paying by weight.

265

La Sirio-Libanesa oMIDDLE EASTERN $ Filipo CAFE
(www.facebook.com/lasiriolibanesa.comidasara (Mendoza 501; licuados AR$37; h7am-1am Mon-
bes; Maipú 575; set menu for 1/2 people AR$90/ Thu, to 3am Fri & Sat, 8am-1am Sun; W) Glasses
­150; h11am-3pm & 8pm-midnight Mon-Sat, gleaming on the gantry, outdoor tables and
11am-3:30pm Sun; v) The restaurant at the bow-tied waiters make this a great cafe.
Syrian-L­ ebanese society offers tasty Levan- Top espresso, prize-worthy apple licuados
tine cuisine that makes a welcome change (blended fruit drinks) and beer served as if
of scene. Mashed eggplant, tasty kipe naye it were Bollinger are the highlights.
(marinated raw mincemeat) and tabb­ ouleh
salad all feature; there are several set menus, Plaza de Almas BAR

as well as à la carte. (www.facebook.com/catorcealmas.argentina; Maipú
791; h12:30pm-3am Mon-Sat, 8pm-3am Sun; W)
oSetimio ARGENTINE $$ This intimate and engaging multilevel place
(Santa Fe 512; mains AR$120-210, tapas AR$60- is popular with under-40 tucumanos and
100; hfood 10am-4pm & 7:30pm-1:30am; W) is one of the best of the city’s many combi-
Wall-to-wall bottles decorate this smart wine nation cafe-bar-restaurant-cultural centers.
shop and restaurant, whose menu features The short but interesting menu (mains
Spanish-­style tapas, fine salads and well-­ AR$40 to AR$70) offers a range of kebabs
prepared fish dishes among other tooth- and salads, among other international-style
some gourmet delights. Several wines are choices. There’s a knot of bars around it,
available by the glass, and you can pick any making it an appealing nighttime destina-
of the hundreds of bottles from the shelves tion.
for a small corkage fee.
Managua BAR Sa lta & th e A n d e a n N o rth w e s t TDurci nukmiánng & NA ri gohutnldi fe

La Leñita PARRILLA $$ (www.facebook.com/casamanagua; San Juan 1015;
(%0381-422-9196; San Juan 633; mains AR$105- h9pm-late Tue-Sun) There’s loads of character
165; hcoffee & snacks 7am-1am, mains 11am- at this lovably bohemian bar set in a high-
3:30pm & 7:30pm-1am; W) One of the better ceilinged historic house, with indoor-o­ utdoor
parrilla restaurants in this part of the space and lots of comfortable places to be.
world, this stands out for service and the There’s a separate area for concerts, where
good quality of the meat. Try picana (rump you’ll find something going on most nights of
steak) or the delicious mollejitas (sweet- the week. Well worth some time.
breads). The empanadas – you’ll get one as a
welcome bite – are delicious. The staff often Costumbres Argentinas BAR
sings folklórica music halfway through the
night. (www.facebook.com/costumbresargentinas.bar;
San Juan 666; h9pm-2am or later) Though the
saintly devilish address seems like a con-
tradiction in terms, this unusual, popular
Cilantro ARGENTINE $$ and welcoming bar has an arty bohemian
(%0381-430-6041; Monteagudo 541; mains vibe and sometimes puts on live music. The
AR$110-180; hnoon-4pm & 8pm-2am Mon-Sat, big two-level beer garden is the place to
noon-4pm Sun; W) With an understated but be on summer nights. Simple food is also
handsome interior, this offers professional available.
service and a considered selection of pork,
fish and beef dishes with interesting sauces, 3 Entertainment
as well as a decent choice of Asian-style
stir-fries. The list of changing specials is There are several places around the center
well worth considering: go for the delicious that put on live folklórica music, generally
tamales if they’re on. at weekends. The tourist office has a full list.

6 Drinking & Nightlife 88 Information

From Thursday to Saturday nights, the ac- Tourist Office (% 0381-430-3644; www.
tion is in the Abasto region, on Calle Lillo. tucumanturismo.gob.ar; Av 24 de Septiembre
Follow San Lorenzo west from the town 484; h 8am-9pm Mon-Fri, 9am-9pm Sat &
center, and you’ll hit the middle of the zone. Sun) On the plaza; very helpful and knowledge-
There are dozens of bars and nightclubs – able. There’s another office in the shopping
take your pick. Other boliches can be found center at the bus terminal, open the same
in Yerba Buena, 6km west of the town center. hours.

266

DAY-TRIPPING FROM TUCUMÁN

The fertile, hilly area northwest of Tucumán is known as Las Yungas. It offers plenty
of appealing day trips to get you out of the hot, busy city. The tourist office (p265)
provides good information on destinations such as the reservoir of El Cadillal, offering
camping, swimming, windsurfing and a ‘ski-lift,’ and the Parque Sierra de San Javier,
a university-operated reserve offering guided walks.

To the south of Tucumán, the Parque Nacional Campo de los Alisos makes a
tempting destination, particularly if you have your own transportation. A hilly park at the
zone where the montane forest and cloud forest meets the Andes proper, it offers good
walking and climbing. There’s free camping and a climbers’ refugio. The park entrance is
12km beyond Alpachiri, reachable by bus from Tucumán. The park office in Concepción,
18km before Alpachiri, might be able to help with transportation.

Sa lta & th e A n d e a n N o rth w e s t GTaeuftcítudimneálgnVT&ahleAlrreeo&u nAdway 88 Getting There & Away 430-9220; www.sofse.gob.ar; Plaza Alberdi
s/n). Expect long delays, poor visibility, ordinary
AIR food and questionable cleanliness. Because
Aerolíneas (% 0381-431-1030; www.aero the trip is so cheap, it books up well in advance:
lineas.com.ar; 9 de Julio 110; h 8:30am-1pm think months.
& 5-8pm Mon-Fri, 9am-12:30pm Sat) and LAN
(% 0381-422-0606; www.lan.com; San Juan At time of research, trains were leaving Buenos
426; h 9am-1pm & 5-8pm Mon-Fri) fly several Aires’ Retiro station at 8:47am on Monday and
times daily to Buenos Aires; Aerolíneas also Friday for the 26-hour journey. From Tucumán,
flies to Córdoba. trains left at 4:16pm on Wednesday and 9:01pm
on Saturday. The trip costs AR$70/130 in 1st
BUS class/Pullman (reclinable seats) or AR$800 for
Tucumán’s bus terminal (% 0381-430-0352; two in a sleeper. There’s a bar/restaurant on
Brígido Terán 350; W) is a major affair, with 60 board.
platforms and plenty of shops and services.
The bus information booth is outside, by the 88 Getting Around
supermarket.
Buses from Tucumán Aeropuerto Benjamín Matienzo is 8km east of
downtown. A remise costs around AR$100 from
DESTINATION COST (AR$) TIME (HR) the town center.
Buenos Aires 1107 15-18
Cafayate 240-270 6½ Around the city, local buses clearly mark major
Catamarca 205 3¼-3¾ destinations on the front. Fares cost AR$4, using
Córdoba 561 7-9 coins or prepurchased card; there’s a sales point
Jujuy 325 4½-5½ near the bus terminal tourist office. Schedules at
La Quiaca 508 9-11 www.tucubondi.com.ar.
La Rioja 300-345 5½
Mendoza 906 13-15 There are several car-rental places.
Puerto Iguazú 1395 21
Resistencia 726 11-12 Tafí del Valle
Salta 290 4¼
Salvador Mazza 596 10-13 % 03867 / POP 3400 / ELEV 2100M
Santiago del 125 2
Estero This lovely hill town, set in a green valley
Tafí del Valle 80 2-3 with fabulous vistas of the surrounding
mountains, is where Tucumán folk tradi-
TRAIN tionally head to take refuge from the sum-
Tucumán is connected to Buenos Aires (via La mer heat. Tafí makes a fine spot to hang out
Banda/Santiago del Estero and Rosario) twice for a few days; it offers crisp mountain air,
weekly from beautiful Estación Mitre (% 0381- hiking options, many budget accommoda-
tions and a laid-back scene. There are also
memorable historic ranches to stay at.

The journey from Tucumán is a spec-
tacular one: a narrow river gorge with
dense subtropical forest on all sides opens
onto the reservoir-filled valley beneath the
snowy peaks of the Sierra del Aconquija.

267

The precipitous mountain road merits a minal (turn right, go round the bend, veer
window seat. right). It’s got a lovely location with great
views from the spacious garden. Rates in-
1 Sights & Activities clude breakfast and tasty home-cooked din-
ners; the atmosphere here is excellent. It’s
Several people around town hire out horses best to book ahead in summer. Prices drop
(look for ‘alquilo caballos’ or ‘cabalgatas’) substantially off-season. HI discount.
for rides in the valley. The tourist office can
give you details of the Ruta del Artesano, From August to November volunteers can
which features a number of visitable handi- tend the organic garden in exchange for bed
craft workshops in and around town. Down- and board.
load the PDF from www.tucumanturismo.
gov.ar. Hotel Virgen del Valle HOTEL $
(%03867-421016; [email protected];
Hiking in the mountains around Tafí is Los Menhires s/n; d US$48; aiW) Just off the
an attractive prospect. An easy, well-marked main drag in the heart of town, this features
hike climbs Cerro El Pelao for views over spacious, comfortable but darkish rooms
the town. The path starts on the left as soon around a small courtyard. It’s not luxury,
as you’ve crossed the bridge. From the same and there are a few inconveniences but it’s
road you can walk a pleasant 10km to El a good deal for two at this price.
Mollar, following the river and the reservoir,
visit the menhir park (p269) and bus back. Hospedaje Celia GUESTHOUSE $
(%03867-421170; Belgrano 443; r per person
Other hills include 3000m Matadero, a US$15) Set back from the road 100m uphill
four- to five-hour climb; 3600m Pabellón from the church, Celia offers bright, white
(six hours); and 4500m El Negrito, reached and comfortable rooms in a tranquil, friendly Sa lta & th e A n d e a n N o rth w e s t STaui gfchíutdmseál&nVA&aclAtlrievoiut ineds
from the statue of Cristo Redentor on RN setting, with heating and private bathrooms.
307 to Acheral. Trails are badly marked, and There are inconveniences – no in-room
no maps are available; you can hire guides: sockets, for example – but staff will give you
ask at the tourist office. an extension lead and the price is right.

You can walk between here and Tucumán.

Capilla La Banda CHURCH, MUSEUM oEstancia Las Carreras ESTANCIA $$

(Av José Silva; admission AR$15; h8am-6pm) (%03867-421473; www.estancialascarreras.com;
This 18th-century Jesuit chapel, acquired
by the Frías Silva family of Tucumán after RP 325, Km13, Las Carreras; d US$130; W) This
visually striking location 13km from Tafí,
the Jesuits’ expulsion and then expanded surrounded by hills great for hiking and
in the 1830s, was restored to its original
configuration in the 1970s. Note the escape horseback riding, has only the lowing of
cattle to disturb the tranquillity. A historic
tunnel under the altar. A small collection of Jesuit ranch, working farm and cheese fac-
funerary urns, Cuzco-school religious art, ec-
clesiastical vestments and period furniture tory, it offers superb accommodations in a
characterful 18th-century complex. Public
is displayed. areas are wonderful; there are few better
The chapel is a short walk from down-
town. Cross the river bridge and you’ll see it bases for relaxation hereabouts.

on your left after 750m. oEstancia Los Cuartos ESTANCIA $$
(%0381-15-587-4230; www.estancialoscuartos.
4 Sleeping com; Critto s/n; d US$65-90; iW) S Oozing
with character, this lovely spot with grazing
There are many choices, including a string llamas lies between the bus terminal and the
of cabin complexes on and near the main center. Two centuries old, it feels like a mu-
road. Tafí packs out for January high season. seum, with venerable books lining antique
Prices drop substantially the rest of the year. shelves, and authentic rooms redolent with
Unheated rooms can get distinctly chilly aged wood and woolen blankets but with
any time. great modern bathrooms. Newer rooms of-

oNomade Hostel HOSTEL $ fer less history but remain true to the feel
(%0381-307-5922; www.nomadehostel.com.ar; of the place.
Los Castaños s/n; dm US$18, d with/without bath- Traditional cheeses are also made here.
room US$48/60; iW) S Relaxed, colorful, Don’t confuse this with nearby Hostería Los
enthusiastic and welcoming, this hostel is Cuartos.
an easy 10-minute walk from the bus ter-

268 5 Eating & Drinking

Las Tacanas ESTANCIA $$ Eating options dot the central streets; other
(%03867-421821; www.estancialastacanas.com; choices are out on the main road. Try the
Perón 372; d/q US$129/169; iW) Impeccably tasty local Kkechuwa artisanal beers.
preserved and decorated, this fabulous his-
toric complex in the center of town feels like Restaurante El Museo NORTHWEST ARGENTINE $
a rural retreat. It was once a Jesuit estan- (Av José Silva s/n; dishes AR$30-90; hnoon-4pm)
cia and is a memorable place to stay. Adobe Set in the venerable adobe Jesuit chapel a
buildings, more than three centuries old, kilometer from the center, this makes a very
house a variety of tasteful, rustic rooms (one atmospheric venue to lunch on traditional
is especially historic) with noble furniture home-cooked local specialties, such as hu-
and beamed ceilings. Don’t expect modern mitas, tamales and empanadas. Just turn
luxury: it’s the character and history you’re up and see what’s cooking that day.
paying for.

Hostería Lunahuana HOTEL $$ Rancho de Félix NORTHWEST ARGENTINE $
(%03867-421330; www.lunahuana.com.ar; Av
Miguel Critto 540; s/d US$75/124; iW) This (cnr Belgrano & Perón; mainsAR$75-130; h11:30am-
3pm & 8pm-midnight; W) This warm, thatched
stylish and popular central hotel has rooms barn of a place is incredibly popular for lunch.
decorated with flair; some have mezzanines Regional specialties such as locro and humi-
accessed by spiral staircases. The whole tas feature heavily on the menu, but parrilla
place is decked out with interesting and and pasta are also on offer. Quality is reason-
tasteful decorations, and service is profes- ably good, and prices are fair. It sometimes
sional and friendly. doesn’t open evenings if things are quiet.
Sa lta & th e A n d e a n N o rth w e s t TEauftcíiundmgeál&nVD&arlAilnrekoiunngd
Descanso de las Piedras CABAÑAS $$ Flor de Sauco CAFE $
(% 0381-15-570-1266; www.descansodelas
piedras.com; Madre Teresa de Calcuta s/n; d/q (Av Miguel Critto s/n; cakes AR$20-50; h8:30am-
10:30pm; W) This sociable and pleasant bun-
US$95/180; Wsc) S Welcoming and so- galow is a popular all-day spot for a coffee,
cial, these cute orange cabins and rooms snack or cake. It bills itself as a teahouse,
surround a grassy area with solar-heated but, though there’s quite a selection, it’s all
pool, vegetable garden, ducks and llamas, teabags. Nice terrace and views. Service is
and a burbling stream. It’s a relaxing re- willing but slow.
treat 20 minutes’ walk from the center and
a great option for families; cabins sleeping 88 Orientation
up to seven are available. Cross the bridge
and follow the signs. It’s up to 50% cheaper Tafí’s center is a triangle of three streets. Critto
off-season. is the main drag. If you turn left out of the bus
terminal, you’re following it into the center. Off
Waynay Killa HOTEL $$$ it, Perón is the center of activity, and Belgrano
(%0381-413-1280; www.waynaykilla.com; Ubal­dini climbs from Perón past the church.

s/n; d/tr US$161/184; aiWsc) S Un- 88 Information
obtrusively set on a hillside 2km from the
center, this new hotel takes sustainability Casa del Turista (% 0381-15-594-1039; www.
to excellent levels, generating power, treat- tafidelvalle.gob.ar; Los Faroles s/n; h 8am-
ing its own sewage, and carbon filtering 10pm) On the pedestrian street.

its kitchen. Handsome public areas make 88 Getting There & Away
good use of natural light and local art, while
rooms face the valley or the hills, either of Tafí’s bus terminal (% 03867-421025; Av Critto)
which guarantees a great vista. Half have is 400m east of the center.
balconies (same rate).
Staff is excellent, as are the facilities, Aconquija has six to nine buses a day to
which include an indoor pool and spa area, Tucumán (AR$80, two to three hours), Santa
and a bar-restaurant with great views from María (AR$95, two hours, four to five daily) and
its outdoor deck. Suites with kitchenettes Cafayate (AR$140, 3½ hours, two to five daily)
and further amenities were in development via Amaicha del Valle (AR$75) and the Quilmes
at last visit. ruins turnoff (AR$130).

The road from Tucumán is beautiful, and the
road to Santa María, Quilmes and Cafayate is
scenic, crossing the 3050m pass known as Abra
del Infiernillo (Little Hell Pass).

4 Sleeping 269

Around Tafí del Valle There are many places to stay in town.

The circuit of the valley makes a beautiful Residencial Pérez GUESTHOUSE $
drive or cycle (47km). Highlights include (%03838-420257; [email protected]; San
standout views, and the Jesuit estancia, Martín 94; s/d US$20/30) The welcoming Resi-
hotel and cheese factory of Las Carreras dencial Pérez has spotless rooms set around
(p267); guided visits are from 9am to 6pm a viney courtyard behind a cafe near the
for AR$15 including coffee; visit at 5pm to plaza (no sign).
see the milking. At pretty El Mollar, at the
other end of the valley from Tafí, you can 88 Information
visit the Parque de los Menhires (Plaza s/n,
El Mollar; admission AR$15; h9am-7pm Tue-Fri, Tourist Office (% 03838-421083; www.
2-7pm Sat & Sun) F on the plaza, a col- santamariadeyokavil.com.ar; Plaza General Bel-
lection of more than 100 carved standing grano s/n; h7am-11pm Mon-Fri, 8am-11pm Sat
stones found in the surrounding area. They & Sun) A helpful tourist office located under
were produced by the Tafí culture some the trees in the square.
2000 years ago.
88 Getting There & Away Sa lta & th e A n d e a n N o rth w e s t ST uiAgNchuTtAmsáMnA R&Í AA r o u nd
Tour companies in Tafí run mediocre
excursions round this circuit (costing from There are several buses daily to Tucumán
AR$200 to AR$300). If there’s more than (AR$160, five hours) via Tafí del Valle (AR$95,
one of you, a remise will do it for less. Acon- two hours) and two daily to Cafayate (AR$75, two
quija buses head to El Mollar (AR$10), and hours) via Quilmes. Several buses and minibuses
also to Las Carreras (AR$12). The final stop a week go to Belén (AR$114, four hours). Remises
on the Las Carreras route is El Rincón, from from the terminal to the center cost AR$12.
where a 4km downhill walk will take you to
El Mollar, allowing you to do the full valley Amaicha del Valle
circuit. Three daily buses also do the whole
circuit (AR$40), but you can’t get off. % 03892 / POP 3200 / ELEV 2000M

Santa María On the main road between Tafí del Valle
and Cafayate, this dusty settlement has an
% 03838 / POP 10,800 / ELEV 1900M indigenous feel and, indeed, is famous for
its Pachamama festival in February, which
Actually within Catamarca province, this includes music, dancing and a llama sac-
fine stopover sits between Tafí del Valle rifice to bless the harvest. Ornate and un­
and Cafayate, and is a handy base for the usual Museo de Pachamama (www.museo
Quilmes ruins. pachamama.com; admission AR$50; h8:30am-
6:30pm) combines a picturesque collection
1 Sights of indigenous art and artifacts with the
sculpture and tapestries of the artist who de-
The attractive plaza, nine blocks north of the signed the striking indoor-outdoor building.
bus terminal, is the center of town.
Amaicha is useful for getting to the ruins
Museo Arqueológico at Quilmes, and has several places to stay, in-
cluding hostels and campgrounds. Buses be-
Eric Boman MUSEUM tween Tafí (AR$75, 1½ hours) and Cafayate
(AR$60, 1½ to 2½ hours) stop here.
(cnr Belgrano & Sarmiento; h9am-1pm & 6-8pm
Mon-Fri, 10am-1pm & 6-8pm Sat) F On one
corner of the plaza, Museo Arqueológico
Eric Boman has a worthwhile collection of Quilmes
ceramics plus gold and silver grave jewelry
from this important archaeological zone. Dating from about AD 1000, Quilmes (adult/
Ask to see the back room, where elaborately child AR$30/free; h8am-6pm) was a complex
decorated funerary urns are stored. An ar- indigenous urban settlement that occupied
tesanía cooperative next door sells woven about 30 hectares and housed as many as
goods and other handicrafts at more-than- 5000 people. The inhabitants survived con-
fair prices. tact with the Inca, which occurred from
about AD 1480 onward, but could not outlast
the siege of the Spaniards, who in 1667 de-
ported the remaining 2000 to Buenos Aires.

270 1 Sights
Quilmes’ thick walls underscore its defen-
oCentro Cultural del
sive purpose, but clearly this was more than
just a pucará (walled city). Dense construc- Bicentenario MUSEUM, GALLERY
tion radiates from the central nucleus. For
revealing views of the extent of the ruins, (CCB; www.ccbsantiago.com; Pellegrini 149 & Lib-
climb as high as you can; there are trails ertad s/n; adult/child 9-14yr AR$10/5; h9am-2pm
on either side up to the remains of watch- & 4-9pm Tue-Fri, 10am-1pm & 6-9pm Sat, 6-9pm
towers that also offer great perspectives. Sun) This excellent cultural center is an airy,
Be prepared for intense sun with no shade, modern space housing three museums, all
and a large fly population keen on exploring imaginatively displayed; the highlight is the
your facial orifices. Guides at the entrance anthropological collection, with a stun-
will offer an explanation and/or tour for a ning array of indigenous ceramics, jewelry
tip. Don’t expect accurate archaeological and flutes. Fossils of mastodons and glyp-
analysis. todonts, extinct creatures that somewhat
resembled large armadillos, also impress.
Legal battles between the Diaguita com- The sparsely labeled historical museum is
munity and the government mean the hotel attractively set around the patio of Santia-
and restaurant are long closed. In theory, go’s noblest building and touches on slavery,
the museum at the site may one day reopen: 19th-century strife and the role of women.
here’s hoping, for it’s difficult to interpret The top-floor art gallery features good tem-
the ruins without it. Friendly folk selling porary exhibitions.
local ceramics also sell cold drinks and will All info is in Spanish. The downstairs cafe
look after your bags; there’s also a place at is a popular meeting place, does good cof-
the main road junction that will do it, saving Sa lta & th e A n d e a n N o rth w e s t GST euatnctuimnaágnoT&hdeArlreoE s&utnAedwraoy fee and is a pleasant air-conditioned retreat
you lugging them. from the Santiago heat.

88 Getting There & Away Parque Aguirre PARK

Buses between Cafayate and Santa María or This enormous eucalypt- and casuarina-filled
Tafí drop off at the junction; from there it’s a riverside area has campgrounds, a swimming
5km walk or hitchhike to the ruins. Alternatively, pool and a costanera (riverside road). It’s a
get off at Amaicha del Valle, where a remise will fine place for a wander, with plenty to keep
charge around AR$160 one way to the ruins: the kids entertained, and has a few confit-
bargain to get a decent price including waiting erías (cafes offering light meals) and bars.
time. Often a few people want to go, so you can Avoid the disgracefully neglected zoo, sched-
share costs. uled for closure but dragging on. Those poor
Sebastián Pastrana (% 0381-15-443-6805) tigers will have someone’s hand off one day.
runs good four-hour tours from Amaicha
(AR$120), departing 10:30am and 3:30pm. z Festivals & Events

A remise from Cafayate or Santa María is also Marcha de los Bombos PARADE
an option and tours run from Cafayate and Tafí.
(www.marchadelosbombos.com.ar) During the
Santiago del Estero last week of July, santiagueños celebrate
the founding of the city. The centerpiece is
% 0385 / POP 360,900 INCL LA BANDA this boisterous procession into the center by
thousands of locals banging all manner of
Placid, hot Santiago enjoys the distinction drums.
of the title ‘Madre de Ciudades’ (Mother of
Cities), for this, founded in 1553, was the 4 Sleeping
first Spanish urban settlement in what is
now Argentina. Sadly, it boasts no architec- Hotel Avenida HOTEL $
tural heritage from that period; nevertheless (%0386-421-5887; www.havenida.com.ar; Pedro
it makes a pleasant stop. León Gallo 403; s/d US$27/50; aW) You have
to feel for these people: they set up a wel-
Santiagueños enjoy a nationwide repu- coming little hotel, beautifully decorated
tation for folk music and, to put it politely, with indigenous art and right opposite the
valuing rest and relaxation over work. Nev- bus terminal. Then the city moved the bus
ertheless, there’s plenty of bustle around the terminal to the other side of town. Never-
town center, particularly in the evenings theless, it’s well worth the short walk from
when life orbits around the pretty plaza and the center. Spotless, renovated, friendly and
adjoining pedestrian streets. always improving: a great little place.

271

Santiago del Estero e# 0 400 m
A 0 0.2 miles
B C D
La Banda (1km);
£# (2km)
D ChacabucoAlvear D El Patio del Indio
D D Froilán (4km)

1 ›# Av AJuveannidNaúCñoesztadneel rParado 1

Ejército Argentino Parque
JM Gorriti Aguirre

Av Rivadavia Jujuy 5 de Rojas
2 ÷# 2
Perú #ý Prensa Argentina 2
La Plata Salta Av Diego 3
4
Plaza PelleAgvriLniibertad NicoláOs lHaeercehdeiaa Gumersindo Sayago
San Av General
Martín

3 TuAcbusamlóánnRojas 25 de
3 ÿ# Avellaneda
Centro Mayo Roca
Cultural del 1 Sa lta & th e A n d e a n N o rth w e s t SET uatncitunimgaág&noD&dreAilnrkoEisuntngedr o
–# Mal Bicentenario #ï Urquiza
â#

Paso (5km) Plaza

4 ú# Libertad ò# Ü# MitreMendCoazatamarca
Ü#Catedral Iglesia de Plaza 3 Apart
SAavrmLiibeenCrttóoarddoba
4 Av Belgrano 9 de Julio D Santo (300m)
DBuoemnoins Agiores
Independencia
Hotel Avenida Ü# Iglesia de C
(500m) la Merced

AB D

oAltos del Estero HOTEL $$ Santiago del Estero
(%0385-422-7718; www.hotelaltosdelestero.com;
Salta 40; s/d US$60/80; aiWs) Converted æ Top Sights
from a car park, ensuring plenty of space 1 Centro Cultural del Bicentenario ........A3
in a central location, this modern offering
is cool and pleasant, with helpful service. æ Sights
Its inviting rooms offer significant value; 2 Parque Aguirre ......................................C2
many have street-side or pool-side balco-
nies, decked out in soft contemporary beiges ÿ Sleeping
and browns. The pool is decent, and price 3 Altos del Estero .....................................A3
includes parking.
ú Eating
Plaza 3 Apart APARTMENT $$ 4 Mía Mamma ...........................................A4
(www.plaza3apart.com.ar; Buenos Aires 778; apt
d/f US$100/148; aiWc) An excellent op- ý Entertainment
tion for families, this large apartment hotel 5 La Casa del Folclorista .........................C2
offers suites with fully equipped kitchens,
dining-living areas and two bedrooms. 5 Eating & Drinking
There are often over-the-counter discounts
offered. Facilities include spa and gym. Head to Roca between Salta and Libertad
for a selection of popular cafes, bars and
modish salon restaurants. This is the main
eating and drinking area.

272

Mía Mamma ARGENTINE $$ Buses from Santiago del Estero
(24 de Septiembre 15; mains AR$75-130; hnoon-
3pm & 9pm-12:15am; W) Tucked away but
on the plaza, this is a discreet and reliable DESTINATION COST (AR$) TIME (HR)
restaurant with well-dressed waiters who Buenos Aires 960 12-15
see to your every need. There’s a salad bar Catamarca 220 4½
with plenty of vegetables and a wide choice Córdoba 409 5-6
of food that includes enormous parrilla op- La Rioja 505 7-8
tions as well as tasty arroz a la valenciana Resistencia 586 8-9
(paella). Salta 445 7
Tucumán 125 2
3 Entertainment

Sa lta & th e A n d e a n N o rth w e s t ECnattearmtaaricname&nLta R i o ja El Patio del Indio Froilán TRADITIONAL MUSIC TRAIN
(www.elindiofroilan.com.ar; Av Libertador Norte Santiago del Estero’s twin town La Banda is on
s/n, Barrio Boca del Tigre; hSun) For more than the line (p266) between Tucumán (four hours)
40 years now, indigenous local hero Froilán and Buenos Aires’ Retiro station (23 hours).
González has been making drums from the
trunks of the ceibo tree. They are used by 88 Getting Around
some of the biggest names in Latin music.
On Sundays, locals and visitors gather at Buses 115 and 119 (AR$3.50) go to the airport
this open space and workshop from early (SDE; % 0385-434-3651; Av Madre de Ciu-
afternoon to eat empanadas, investigate dades), 6km northwest of downtown. A taxi
drum-making and listen and dance to live costs AR$40.
music. Great scenes.
A new urban train links Santiago’s bus terminal
La Casa del Folclorista TRADITIONAL MUSIC with La Banda.

(www.facebook.com/lacasadelfolcloristasde; Av Bus 117 does a circuit of Santiago’s center
Diego de Rojas s/n; h9pm-1am daily, noon-3pm before heading across the river to the train
station.

Sat & Sun) On the way to the riverfront, this
big barn of a peña has live folk bands Friday
and Saturday (AR$50 cover) and cheap par-
rilla and empanadas any time. The music CATAMARCA & LA RIOJA
kicks off around 11pm.
Comparatively little-visited by travelers,
88 Information these provinces are wonderful fun to explore,
and are rich in scenery and tradition. Both
Tourist Office (% 0385-421-3253; www. were home to important pre-­Columbian
turismosantiago.gob.ar; Libertad 417; h7am- cultures and consequently the region con-
9pm Mon-Fri, 10am-1pm & 5-8pm Sat, 10am- tains many important archaeological sites.
1pm Sun) On the plaza. Also opens Sunday The provinces rise westward into the Andes,
afternoons from June to August. with some of the country’s most spectacular
highland scenery acces­sible by tour or 4WD:
88 Getting There & Away it’s an utterly memorable landscape.

AIR Catamarca
Aerolíneas (% 0385-422-4333; www.aero
lineas.com.ar; 24 de Septiembre 547; % 0383 / POP 200,100 / ELEV 530M
h 8:30am-noon & 5-8pm Mon-Fri, 9am-noon
Sat) flies daily to Buenos Aires. Vibrant Catamarca has a completely dif-
ferent feel to the other towns of this size
BUS within the region. San Fernando del Valle
Santiago’s swish bus terminal (% 0385-422- de Catamarca, to give the city its full name,
7091; www.tosde.com.ar; Chacabuco 550) is six has a lovely central plaza filled with robust
blocks northwest of Plaza Libertad. For Salta jacaranda, araucaria, citrus and palm trees,
and Catamarca, there are better connections via and streets dotted with fine buildings. A
Tucumán. Bus 20 (AR$3.50) heads into town, few blocks west, Parque Navarro’s huge eu-
but it’s only AR$16 in a taxi. calypts scent the air and are backed by the
spectacular sierra beyond.

273

Catamarca e# 0 400 m
A 0 0.2 miles
B C D
9 de Julio
1 Vicario SeguraPradoMuseo 1ú# 8Prado1
2 Parque Esquiú
Tucumán
Navarro Rivadavia
Sarmiento

Av Virgen del Valle
Arqueológico â# Convento de
Adán Quiroga Ü#San Francisco

Esquiú D# 3
ÿ# 4 Municipal Provincial Av RepúblicaLa Cueva del
Tourist ï#Tourist Santo (200m)
Av República Office Office
ÿ# 5 San Martín #ï San Martín
Ü# 2 Plaza ò#
25 de
ú# 7 Mayo
2

Salta Chacabuco

Ayacucho Rivadavia Tucumán Mota Botello
Caseros Los Regionales
3 Mate de Luna 3
Av Virgen del Valle Maipú ÿ# 6
9 #þ Junín Sa lta & th e A n d e a n N o rth w e s t CS iagthatmsarca & L a R i o ja
Zurita

Av›#Güemes

4 AYvrHigipoyóelinto Plaza 4
25 de
AB Agosto Rioja D
C

1 Sights Catamarca

Sights outside of town easily accessible by æ Top Sights
bus include the grotto where the town’s 1 Museo Arqueológico Adán
Virgin was found, a reservoir, indigenous Quiroga................................................ C1
ruins and the picturesque foothills around
Villa Las Pirquitas. The tourist office will æ Sights
explain them all and show you where to 2 Catedral Basílica de Nuestra
get the bus. Señora del Valle .................................C2

oMuseo Arqueológico Adán Ø Activities, Courses & Tours
3 Alta Catamarca ..................................... B1
Quiroga MUSEUM
ÿ Sleeping
(Sarmiento 450; h7:30am-1pm & 3:30-9pm Mon- 4 Hotel Casino Catamarca......................A2
Fri, 10am-7pm Sat & Sun) F This fine archae- 5 Puna Hostel ...........................................A2
ological museum displays a superb coll­ection 6 Residencial Tucumán ...........................D3
of pre-Columbian ceramics from several
different cultures and eras. Some pieces – ú Eating
particularly the black Aguada ceramics with 7 Caravati..................................................C2
their incised, stylized animal decoration – 8 Sopra Tutto............................................ C1
are of truly remarkable quality. Also present
are a couple of mummies found at 5000m, þ Shopping
a spooky shrunken head from the Amazon, 9 Mercado Artesanal y Fábrica de
and trays used to snort lines of ground Alfombras ...........................................A3

274 Puna Hostel HOSTEL $
tobacco. There’s also a colonial and religious (%0383-442-5296; www.facebook.com/punahos
section. Closed weekends in January. tal; San Martín 152; dm/tw US$10/25; W) It’s a

Catedral Basílica de Nuestra cheap sleep at this simple central hostel, but

Señora del Valle CATHEDRAL they sardine ’em into the dorms, with not

(Plaza 25 de Mayo; h6am-9:30pm) This much room to move between bunks: stuffy
19th-century cathedral shelters the Virgen
del Valle, patron of Catamarca and one of on hot days. It’s a friendly place, though,
with a back garden and kitchen.
northern Argentina’s most venerated images.
Her back is to the church: you can get a look oHotel Casino Catamarca
at her face by ascending to the Camarín, a HOTEL $$
(%0383-443-2928; www.hotelcasinocatamarca.
chapel accessed down the side of the build- com; Esquiú 151; r studio/standard/superior
ing, decorated with stained-glass panels US$97/114/151; aiWs) There’s space to
telling her story. On Av Repúbl­ica round the spare at this peaceful but central hotel,
corner, a slick new mus­eum is only of inter- which features handsome modern design
est to serious devotees of the Virgin. and bags of facilities. Rooms are more than
ample. Some have balconies; superiors add
T Tours minibar, king-size beds and hydromassage

Alta Catamarca DRIVING TOUR tubs. White sheets contrast with wooden
floors. There’s a restaurant, decent gym,
(%0383-443-0333; www.altacatamarca.tur.ar; Es- small spa complex, and a cracking long pool
quiú 433) A well-run agency offering tours of
the sights close to the city (AR$315), as well and lawn. And a casino, of course.

Sa lta & th e A n d e a n N o rth w e s t CT oatuarsmarca & L a R i o ja as longer excursions to the attractions in the 5 Eating & Drinking
west of the province, including Belén, the
Ruta de Adobe, the Seismiles, Antofagasta de The main nighttime action is in a zone about
la Sierra and the surrounding puna. A five- 2km west of the center on and around Av
day, four-night excursion costs AR$9900 per Galindez.
person for two, or AR$7800 for four.
Caravati CAFE $
z Festivals & Events (Sarmiento 683; dishes AR$70-120; h8am-3pm &
6pm-2am; W) The most inviting of the plaza’s
Fiesta de Nuestra terraces, this is named after the Italian ar-

Señora del Valle RELIGIOUS chitect who designed much of central Cat-

The Fiesta de Nuestra Señora del Valle takes amarca, including the cathedral alongside.
place for two weeks after Easter, as hordes of
pilgrims come to honor the Virgen del Valle. The handsome interior is popular for a
good line in pizzas, sandwiches and more
On her saint’s day, December 8, she is simi- substantial dishes, including a worthwhile
larly feted.
weekday lunch. Service can be very poor.

Fiesta Nacional del Poncho CULTURAL La Cueva del Santo TAPAS, SPANISH $$

(www.facebook.com/fiestadelponcho; hmid-Jul) (%0383-422-6249; www.facebook.com/lacueva.
This celebration of handicrafts and tradi-
tional Catamarca culture brings a huge arti- delsanto; Av República 1162; pintxos AR$16-50,
dishes AR$60-110; h9pm-1am Tue-Sat, coffee
sanal market, plenty of folkloric performers 8:30-11:30am Mon-Fri; W) The patchy Cata­
and an excellent atmosphere.
marca dining scene is given a real boost
4 Sleeping by this sweet spot opposite the striking
19th-­century hospital. It deals in authentic
There’s a wide selection of reliable but rath- Spanish fare: the highlight are delicious
er mediocre midrange hotels on Sarmiento Basque-style cold and hot pintxos (canape-­
just north of the plaza. type tapas). It’s a sociable, fun experience.

Residencial Tucumán GUESTHOUSE $ Operates reduced hours in summer.

(%0383-442-2209; Tucumán 1040; s/d US$30/40; Sopra Tutto ITALIAN $$
aW) This well-run, immaculately present-
ed residencial (budget hotel) has comfort- (%0383-445-2114; Rivadavia 404; mains AR$70-
140; h9pm-midnight Tue-Sat) Really excellent
able, spotless rooms, is excellent value and homemade pasta, beautifully presented and
is about a one-minute walk from the bus
terminal. There are other options nearby if flavorsome, is produced in this warmly run,
cozy corner trattoria that doubles as a pasta
it’s full. shop during the day. Service by the owners

275

THE WILD NORTHWEST

If you like getting off the beaten track, you’re sure to appreciate out-of-the-way Anto­fa­
gasta de la Sierra in the far northwest of Catamarca province, 300km beyond Belén. This
puna (Andean highlands) village sits at 3320m amid spectacular landscape.

Driving yourself or by tour from Belén or Catamarca you can take in other sights in the
area: the spectacular pumice fields of Campo de Piedra Pomez, remote volcanoes, the
salt flats and hamlet of Antofalla, and flamingo-stocked lakes.

It’s particularly worth visiting in early March for the livestock- and traditional culture-­
based Fiesta de la Puna. There are accommodations in family homes and a couple of
guesthouses, including Hostería de Antofagasta (%03835-410679; Principal s/n,
Antofagasta de la Sierra; s/d US$18/33). It’s freezing in winter. Buses run here from Cata-
marca via Belén at 6:15am Wednesdays and Fridays (AR$150, 12 to 15 hours), returning
at 10am on Mondays and Fridays.

is attentive, and there’s an authentic feel of Varela (% 0383-443-0080), 17km east of town Sa lta & th e A n d e a n N o rth w e s t CSBhaeltoéapnmpai nrgca & L a R i o ja
Italian family cooking, pepped up with some on RP 33. It’s AR$160 in a remise to the center.
modern flair.
BUS
7 Shopping Catamarca’s spruce bus terminal (% 0383-
442-3415; Av Güemes 850) includes a shopping
Catamarca enthusiastically promotes its fine complex and cinema. There are services around
natural products; the region is well known the province and across the country, including to
for wines, olive oil, walnuts, jams and con- Tucumán (AR$185, 3¾ hours), La Rioja (AR$138,
serves. There are several shops stocking two hours) and Buenos Aires (AR$980, 14 to 16
these along Sarmiento and Rivadavia near hours).
the plaza.

Mercado Artesanal y Fábrica Belén

de Alfombras HANDICRAFTS % 03835 / POP 12,300 / ELEV 1250M

(www.artesaniascatamarca.gob.ar; Av Virgen del Valle Slow-paced Belén, a stop on RN 40, feels like,
945; h7am-1pm & 3-9pm Mon-Fri, 8am-8pm Sat, and is, a long way from anywhere, and will
8am-2pm Sun) S For Catamarca’s characteris- appeal to travelers who like things small-
tic hand-tied rugs, visit this artisans market, scale and friendly. It’s one of the best places
which also sells ponchos, blankets, jewelry, to buy woven goods, particularly ponchos.
red onyx sculptures, musical instruments and There are many teleras (textile workshops)
basketry. Adjacent is a carpet-weaving work- around town, turning out their handwoven
shop, where they’ll happily show you around wares made from llama, sheep and alpaca
for free. It’s only open Monday to Friday wool. The intriguing nearby ruins of El Shin-
morning but is scheduled for a refit, aimed at cal are another reason to visit.
making it a major attraction.

88 Information 1 Sights

Municipal Tourist Office (Sarmiento 620; Museo Cóndor Huasi MUSEUM
h 8am-9:30pm) By the cathedral.
Provincial Tourist Office (% 0383-443-7791; (cnr Belgrano & San Martín; admission AR$5;
www.turismocatamarca.gob.ar; cnr Rivadavia h8am-1pm & 4-7pm Mon-Fri) Upstairs at the
& República; h 9am-9pm) Desk in a shopping end of a shopping arcade at a corner of the
arcade on a corner of the plaza. plaza, this museum has a good archaeologi-
cal collection, with a range of ceramics from
different eras of settlement in the region.
88 Getting There & Around
Arañitas Hilanderas TEXTILE WORKSHOP
AIR
Aerolíneas (% 0383-442-4460; www.aero (Av Virgen de Belén s/n; h9am-7pm Mon-Fri, 9am-
lineas.com.ar; Sarmiento 589; h 8am-1pm & 6pm Sat) SF This cooperative is a good
6-9pm Mon-Fri, 9am-1pm Sat) has six weekly place to see weavers at work and buy their
flights from Buenos Aires to Aeropuerto Felipe goods. Follow Belgrano past the Hotel Belén
to find it.

276

Rua Chaky TEXTILE WORKSHOP able restaurant a block down from the plaza.
(%03835-461068; [email protected]; Casa It’s very popular, but it hates to turn people
28, Barrio 17 de Agosto; h7am-10pm) SF away, so a Tetris-like reshuffling of tables is
Drop by any time to this family home in a a constant feature. Prices are more than fair,
pretty barrio to watch shawls and ponchos and there are a number of large platters de-
being made in the traditional manner on the signed to be shared. Well-mixed salads and
loom. They’ve been weaving for five genera- juicy brochettes are highlights.
tions and will explain about the natural dyes
Shopping
7they use. It’s on the other side of the main
road from town, a kilometer and a bit from
the center. A marquee off the plaza is home to a number
of artesanía stalls selling ponchos, camelid-
wool clothing and foot-trodden local wine.
T Tours For more upmarket woven goods, head

oChaku Aventuras TOUR to the workshops around town or shops
(%03835-463976; www.chakuaventuras.com.ar; around the center. Familia Avar Saracho
Belgrano 607; 2-/3-day tours US$280/430) This (%03835-461091; [email protected]; Roca
well-run setup does excellent, memorable 144; h10am-11pm) has reasonable prices and
excursions into the west and northwestern arranges shipping.
highlands of the province. A two-day trip

takes in the Ruta del Adobe, the Termas de 88 Information
Fiambalá and the mighty mountains near
Sa lta & th e A n d e a n N o rth w e s t TLCOoaNtuaDrsmRaErSc&aE&L LSaH IRNi CoAjaL the Chilean border; a three-day trip heads There’s a bank at the corner of General Paz and
northwest to Antofagasta and the spectacu- Lavalle, near the tourist office.
lar puna scenery in that region. Other op- Tourist Office (% 03835-461304; turismo
tions and tailored trips are available. [email protected]; General Paz 168; h 6am-
1pm & 2-8pm) Also has a small mineral exhibi-
tion. There’s a booth on the plaza, too.
4 Sleeping & Eating
Look out for local specialties jigote (remi- 88 Getting There & Away
niscent of moussaka or lasagna) and mote
(stewed corn paste with pork bits). Belén’s bus terminal (cnr Sarmiento & Riva­
davia) is one block south and one west of the
plaza. Catamarca (AR$200, four to five hours) is
oHotel Belén HOTEL $ served several times daily. Night services run to
(%03835-461501; www.belencat.com.ar; cnr La Rioja and Córdoba, and several weekly buses
Belgrano & Cubas; s/d US$45/51, s/d superior and minibuses go to Santa María (AR$110, four
US$62/70; aiWs) A surprising presence hours), which is a scenic journey. Five buses a
in town, this stylish hotel has dark, com- week go to Tinogasta (AR$65, 3½ hours).
fortable rooms featuring exposed rock bath-
rooms, indigenous art, an archaeological
collection and very comfortable beds. If you Londres & El Shincal
can ignore a few creaks and quirks – sound
travels way too easily between bathrooms, Lying 15km southwest of Belén, sleepy Lon-
service is patchy and not everything works dres dates from 1558, though it moved sev-
all the time – it’s a very characterful stay at eral times before returning here in 1612, and
a decent price. the inhabitants again fled during the Diagu-
ita uprising of 1632. Its name (London) cel-
ebrated the marriage of the prince of Spain
Freddy Hostal GUESTHOUSE $ (later Philip II) to Mary Tudor, Queen of
(%03835-461230; [email protected]; Av England, in 1554.
Calchaquí 461; s/d/tr/q US$20/28/35/45; aW)
One of a handful of cheap places on the Seven kilometers west of Londres are
main road through town, this is run by an the Inca ruins of El Shincal (admission
hospitable couple and features simple but AR$30; h8am-6:30pm). Founded in 1471, the
appealing rustic rooms around a patio with town occupied a commanding position in
a cactus garden. Air-con costs a little extra. the foothills of the mountains, surveying
the vast valley to the south. The setting
ARGENTINE $ is spectacular, with fantastic views and
1900
(%03835-461100; Belgrano 391; mains AR$60-120; great atmosphere. The ushnu (ceremonial
h12:30-3pm & 9pm-1:30am Tue-Sat) Beyond-­ platform) is set in the middle of a central
the-call service is the key to this highly enjoy- square and is flanked by two partially re-

277

stored kallankas (buildings of multiple or Museo del Hombre MUSEUM
unknown function). Two hilltop platforms
aligned to the rising and setting sun proba- (Azarelli s/n, Fiambalá; admission AR$10;
bly served as both lookouts and altars to the h7:30am-1:30pm & 3:30-8pm Mon-Fri, 8am-1pm
sun. The reno­vated museum at the entrance & 3-8pm Sat & Sun) This interesting local
gives a scale model and good background in museum has sections on geology and ar-
Inca and pre-Inca culture, while signboards chaeology, including high-quality ceramics
along the way explain local plants. All in- and two haunting Inca mummies with well-­
formation is in Spanish, though guides that preserved funerary goods. Another room is
congregate in the mornings may speak some dedicated to mountaineering, giving details
English. There’s a cafe-restaurant on-site. of famous expeditions to the province’s 14
peaks that stand above 6000m.
Five to six buses Monday to Saturday
run from Belén to Londres (AR$35) and Termas de Fiambalá SPRING
the ruins. Further buses just reach Londres.
A remise from Belén with waiting time is (Fiambalá; admission AR$50; h7am-10pm) Ly-
around AR$250. ing 15km east into the mountains from Fi-
ambalá, these thermal springs emerge from
Beyond Londres, Chilecito is 200km rock and cascade down the mountainside
south in La Rioja province along RN 40, if in a series of pools: the highest is around
you have transportation. The drive is a spec- 40ºC; the cooler ones are below. The views
tacular one, with the imposing Sierra Fam- over the desert valley are epic. It’s best after
atina to the west and Sierra de Velasco to the 5pm when there’s more shade. Weekends
east. The road is excellent. are rowdy. There’s a campsite and various
simple accommodations options here. It’s
AR$170 in a remise from Fiambalá. Sa lta & th e A n d e a n N o rth w e s t SCWiaegtshattmesarrn&cACacat&tiaLvmai atRireicsoaja

Western Catamarca oLos Seismiles MOUNTAIN

% 03837 West of Fiambalá, the paved road winds its
way up into some serious mountains, top-
Western Catamarca province is well worth ping out at the Chilean border. It’s a stun-
exploring. The area is home to historic ning drive, with no services apart from a
adobe churches; vineyards; and stunning white-elephant hotel halfway between Fiam-
views from the hot springs above Fiambalá, balá and the frontier. Los Seismiles are the
an oasis town set in an arid valley among peaks above 6000m, and you’ll see several
dunes. Its spectacular mountainscapes have of them, including Ojos del Salado (6879m),
been favorite terrain for the Dakar rally the world’s highest volcano.
since it moved from Africa. In the far west, Even more awe-inspiring scenery is ac-
a cluster of awe-inspiring 6000m-plus peaks cessed via a lonely mining road that leads
form the planet’s second-loftiest ensemble 90km to Monte Pissis (6793m), the Ameri-
after the Everest region. The main settle- cas’ third-highest peak. It’s about five hours
ments are Tinogasta and Fiambalá, 50km return (50km) to a viewpoint over this im-
apart. If you don’t have transportation, tours posing mountain, with hauntingly beautiful
from Belén or Catamarca are the best ways blue, black and turquoise lakes in the fore-
to see the area. ground. Due to its isolation, this is best by

1 Sights & Activities tour – operators in Belén and Catamarca can
arrange it.
oRuta del Adobe HISTORIC BUILDING

F The road between Tinogasta and Fi- 4 Sleeping & Eating
ambalá is designated the ‘adobe route’ for
its ensemble of fantastic historic buildings. Fiambalá has lots of simple lodgings and a
These are built with thick walls of mud, hostel. Camping is possible, but beware of
straw and dung and have cane roofs sup- frequent high winds and sandstorms.
ported by algarrobo beams. Buildings are
signposted off the road and include for- Hostería Municipal HOTEL $
(%03837-496291; Almagro s/n, Fiambalá; s/d
mer inns and little museums. This was an US$25/40; aW) The heart of Fiambalá is
important trade route to Bolivia and Peru.
On public transportation you can check out this place built around an unattractive shad-
ed courtyard. Rooms are decent, and there’s
the Iglesia de San Pedro, at the southern a restaurant serving simple meals.
entrance to Fiambalá, and the adjacent Co-
mandancia de Armas.

278

oCasagrande BOUTIQUE HOTEL $$ Mendoza and Salta) to take a tour to Parque
Nacional Talampaya and Parque Provincial
(% 03837-421140; www.casagrandetour.com; Ischigualasto.
Moreno 801, Tinogasta; d US$122; aWs) This
standout option in Tinogasta occupies an 1 Sights
historic adobe building that has been add-
ed to and given sublime original decorative La Rioja is a major devotional center, so
touches by the welcoming owners. Cozy rus- many landmarks are ecclesiastical.
tic rooms are traditionally built with cane
ceilings; there’s a beautiful Jacuzzi room and oMuseo Folklórico MUSEUM

outdoor pool; and inventive meals, includ- (Pelagio Luna 811; admission by donation; h9am-
ing excellent salads, are available. It rents 1pm & 5-9pm Tue-Fri, 9am-1pm Sat & Sun) This
sandboards and bikes. hugely worthwhile museum is set in a won-
derful early-17th-century adobe building, and
88 Information has fine displays on various aspects of the
region’s culture. Themes include chaya (local
Fiambalá Tourist Office (% 03837-496250; La Rioja music), the Tinkunaco festival, weav-
www.fiambala.gov.ar; Plaza Principal s/n, ing and winemaking. The informative guided
Fiambalá; h7am-9pm Mon-Fri, 8am-9pm Sat & tour is excellent if your Spanish is up to it.
Sun) On the plaza.

88 Getting There & Away Convento de Santo Domingo CHURCH

There are three or more daily buses from Cata­ (cnr Pelagio Luna & Lamadrid; h9:30am-12:30pm
marca to Tinogasta and Fiambalá (5¾ hours, & 6-8pm Mon-Fri) Built in 1623 by the Diaguita
AR$125). A few weekly reach La Rioja and Córdo- under the direction of Dominican friars, this
Sa lta & th e A n d e a n N o rth w e s t LICnaaftRoairommajaartciao n& L a R i o ja ba. Five weekly buses link Belén and Tinogasta is Argentina’s oldest monastery. The date
(AR$65, 3½ hours). appears in the carved algarrobo door frame,
also the work of Diaguita artists. There’s a
museum of religious art alongside.

La Rioja T Tours

% 0380 / POP 181,000 / ELEV 500M Corona del Inca TOUR

Encircled by the Sierra de Velasco’s graceful (%0380-442-2142; www.coronadelinca.com.ar;
peaks, La Rioja is quite a sight on a sunny Pelagio Luna 914) Offers various excursions to
day. And there are plenty of those: summer provincial highlights.
temperatures rise sky-high in this quiet,
out-of-the-way provincial capital. It’s an un- Runacay TOUR
derstated but quite charming place; even if
you’re on a short highlights tour, you might (%03825-470368; www.runacay.com) Offer
consider stopping off (it’s halfway between tours around Parque Nacional Talampaya
and Parque Provincial Ischigualasto, as well

EL TINKUNACO – CONFLICT RESOLUTION IN THE 16TH CENTURY

The fascinating and moving El Tinkunaco (hnoon 31 Dec) ceremony is a symbolic rep-
resentation of the resolution of clashing cultures that occurred at the birth of La Rioja.
When Juan Ramírez de Velasco founded the city in 1591, he blithely ignored the fact that
the land was owned and farmed by the Diaguita, who naturally took exception to their
territory being carved up among Spanish settlers. They rebelled in 1593, and a bloody
conflict was averted by the mediation of the friar Francisco Solano, later canonized for
his efforts. The Diaguita trusted the cleric and listened to his message. They agreed to
down their arms on two conditions: that the Spanish alcalde (mayor) resign; and that his
replacement be the Christ child. The Spaniards agreed and peace was made. The new
mayor became known as Niño Jesús Alcalde.

The Tinkunaco (the word means ‘meeting’ in Quechua) commemoration commenced
not long afterwards. Every year at noon on December 31, two processions – one rep-
resenting the Spaniards, one the Diaguita – cross town to the Casa de Gobierno. The
processions meet, and solemnly all fall to their knees before the image of the Niño Jesús
Alcalde, then embrace. It’s a powerful moment with its message about cultural differenc-
es and compromises.

279

La Rioja e# 0 400 m
A 0 0.2 miles
B C D

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Avellanedade San

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Lamadrid
VJGooanqzuáínlez
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A

as good trips to Laguna Brava and other La Rioja
lofty destinations.
æ Top Sights
z Festivals & Events 1 Museo Folklórico................................... A1

El Tinkunaco (p278) is one of Argentina’s æ Sights
most interesting ceremonies. 2 Convento de Santo Domingo .............. C1

La Chaya CARNAVAL Ø Activities, Courses & Tours
3 Corona del Inca .....................................A2
The local variant of Carnaval. Its name, de-
rived from a Quechua word meaning ‘to get ÿ Sleeping
someone wet,’ should give you an idea of 4 Hotel Pucara..........................................D3
what to expect. The musical style associated 5 Naindo Park Hotel.................................C2
with the festival is also called chaya. 6 Wayra Hostel .........................................A4

4 Sleeping ú Eating
7 Café del Paseo....................................... B1
La Rioja’s hotels are, with a couple of excep- 8 El Marqués .............................................C2
tions, a very mediocre bunch. Discounts are 9 La Stanza ...............................................D2
offered for cash.
10 La Vieja Casona.....................................C2
Wayra Hostel HOSTEL $ 11 Orígenes................................................. B1
(%0380-15-435-4140; www.wayrahostel.com.ar; þ Shopping
Escalada 1008; dm US$11-15, d US$25-35; aW) 12 Mercado Artesanal de La Rioja ........... B1
Pleasant, clean and friendly, this is a well-run

280 the best places in town, this stylish, attrac-
place with a peaceful feel despite some main- tive restaurant has an upbeat, surprisingly
road noise. Pay the extra pesos for the down- urban vibe and serves imaginative pasta
stairs dorm, which has plenty of space and dishes that are a cut above most places. Bet-
is a little quieter. Private rooms are neat and ter still are the main dishes, which feature
decent value. The hostel picks you up for free delicious and inventive portions of meat,
from the bus terminal, rents out bikes and accompanied by tasty medleys of baked
can organize paragliding and tours. vegetables. Service is helpful and there’s an
appealingly cheery ambience.
oHotel Pucara HOTEL $$
(%0380-443-7789; www.hotelpucaralarioja.com.ar;
República de Siria 79; s/d US$50/77; aiW) Cool
Orígenes ARGENTINE $$
(%0380-442-8036; www.origeneslarioja.com.ar;
and tranquil, this modern hotel has attrac- cnr Catamarca & Pelagio Luna; mains AR$90-180;
tive, comfortable lodgings in a quiet barrio.
The friendly young owners have made it a h11:30am-3:30pm & 8pm-midnight; W) Smart
and enthusiastic, this occupies a corner
welcoming place, with stonework and tra- of an enormous, handsome 19th-century
ditional art decorating public areas and the
five clean, dark rooms, which have decent school, now turned cultural center. It draws
on local traditions but brings a modern
mattresses. Though not a luxury establish- chef’s expertise to bear on them. The result
ment, in many ways it’s La Rioja’s best hotel.
is excellent in many ways, including the in-
Naindo Park Hotel HOTEL $$$ spiring salads, a meal in themselves, and the
(%0380-447-0700; www.naindoparkhotel.com;
Av San Nicolás de Bari 475; s/d US$151/168; pretty presentation of the dishes. Prices are
more than fair.
Sa lta & th e A n d e a n N o rth w e s t ELCaattRiani omgajarca & L a R i o ja aiWs) Just off the plaza, and dominat-
ing it assertively, what is on paper La Rio- La Vieja Casona ARGENTINE $$
(%0380-442-5996; www.lacasonalunch.com.ar;
ja’s top hotel has good service, a fistful of Rivadavia 457; mains AR$80-180; h11:30am-
facilities and prices to match. The rooms are
commodious and good sized, but at last visit 3:30pm & 8:30pm-12:30am; W) Cheerfully lit
and decorated, this is a cracking place with
were in need of a refit. Still, they have origi- a great range of regional specialties, creative
nal art on the walls and decent views. Hard
to say it offers value though. house choices and a menu of standard Ar-
gentine dishes – the parrillada (mixed grill
5 Eating including steak) here is redolent of wood
smoke and of excellent standard. There’s
Regional dishes include locro, juicy empana- a fair selection of La Rioja wines, too, and
das, chivito asado (barbecued goat), humitas, wonderful smells from the busy kitchen.
quesillo (a cheese specialty) and olives. Cheap
local wines are a good bargain in restaurants. 7 Shopping

Café del Paseo CAFE $ La Rioja is famous for weaving and silver­
(cnr Pelagio Luna & 25 de Mayo; light meals AR$60- work that combine indigenous tech-
100; h7:30am-3pm & 5:30pm-1am; W) This is niques with Spanish designs and color
your spot on the corner of the plaza to observe combinations.
local life. Executives with i-gadgets mingle
with families, and tables of older men chew Fittingly for a place named after Spain’s
the fat over another slow-paced La Rioja day. most famous wine region, La Rioja wine has
a national reputation.

El Marqués ARGENTINE $ Mercado Artesanal de La Rioja HANDICRAFTS
(Av San Nicolás de Bari 484; meals AR$50-80; (Pelagio Luna 792; h9am-12:50pm & 6-10pm
h8am-1am Mon-Sat) This simple local eatery
just off the plaza puts many pricier restau- Tue-Sat, 9am-12:50pm Sun) S La Rioja crafts
rants to shame. Sandwiches, traditional lo- are exhibited and sold here, as are other
cal dishes, pasta, pizza, omelets and grilled popular artworks at prices lower than most
meats are well prepared and fairly priced. souvenir shops. Afternoon closing is earlier
It’s something of a bargain and the fruit in winter.

licu­ados are delicious, too. 88 Information

oLa Stanza ITALIAN $$ Municipal Tourist Office (Plaza 25 de Mayo;
(Dorrego 164; mains AR$100-180; h12:30-3pm & h 8am-1pm & 4-9pm Mon-Fri, 8am-9pm Sat &
8:30pm-midnight Tue-Sat, 12:30-3pm Sun) One of Sun) In a kiosk on the plaza.

281

88 Getting There & Away high in the sierra. With the intense heat, its Sa lta & th e A n d e a n N o rth w e s t CGeahtti ltaeimcnaigrt coTahe&reL a&RAiwoajay
mining heritage and the slopes around town
AIR dotted with cardón cactus, Chilecito has a
Aerolíneas Argentinas (% 0380-442-6307; Wild West feel and is definitely the most ap-
www.aerolineas.com.ar; Belgrano 63; h 8am- pealing place to spend a few quiet days in
1pm & 5:30-8:30pm Mon-Fri, 8:30am-12:30pm this part of the country. It’s also a base for
Sat) Flies six times weekly to and from Buenos spectacular excursions into the sierra.
Aires.
1 Sights
BUS
La Rioja’s bus terminal (Av Circunvalación s/n) oMuseo del Cablecarril MUSEUM, CABLE CAR
is picturesquely backed by the sierra. It’s 3km
south from downtown. (Av Presidente Perón s/n; admission AR$15;
h8:30am-noon & 1-6pm) This old cable-car
For Chilecito, La Riojana (% 0380-443-5279; station documents the extraordinary en-
Buenos Aires 154; AR$150; h 9:15am-1:15pm gineering and mining project that cre­
& 6:15-9:15pm Mon-Fri, 9:30am-1pm & 7-9pm ated modern Chilecito at the beginning of
Sat, 9:30am-12:30pm & 6-9pm Sun) minibuses the 20th century. The simple, picturesque
run three times daily (AR$150, 2½ hours, twice mu­seum preserves photos, tools and doc-
Sundays), and are a little quicker than the bus. uments, as well as communications equip-
Minibuses leave from the minibus terminal ment, including an early cellphone. You’ll be
(% 0380-446-8562; Artigas 750) seven blocks shown (in Spanish) the museum, then you
south of the plaza, though they may let you can examine the cable-car terminus itself,
board at the office beforehand. where ore carts now wait silently in line. It’s
best in late afternoon when sun bathes the
Buses from La Rioja rusted metal and snowy sierras.

DESTINATION COST (AR$) TIME (HR) With a car, you can investigate the sec-
Belén 162 5 ond and third cable-car stations, too. Guid-
Buenos Aires 985 14-17 ed tours visit the ninth and final stop of La
Catamarca 138 2 Meji­cana, high in the sierra.
Chilecito 120 3
Córdoba 400 6 The museum is on the main road at the
Mendoza 563 8-9½ southern entrance to town, a block south of
Salta 616 10 the bus terminal.
San Juan 405-429 6
Santiago del 535 7-8 Cristo del Portezuelo MONUMENT
Estero
Tucumán 343 5½-6½ (Maestro s/n; h8am-10pm Mon-Fri, 8:30am-10pm
Sat & Sun) F Head down Maestro from
the plaza to reach this recent addition: a
huge statue of Christ on a platform accessed
by a 203-step ascent flanked by terraced cac-
tus gardens. Views from the top give super
perspectives over town, and local couples ca-
88 Getting Around noodle, secure at the savior’s feet. There’s a
cafe, and a painfully slow funicular (AR$10)
Aeropuerto Vicente Almonacid (IRJ; % 0380- for weary legs.
446-2160) is 7km east of town on RP 5. A taxi
costs around AR$120. Molino de San Francisco MUSEUM

A cab from the bus terminal to downtown (Ocampo 63; admissionAR$20; h8:30am-12:30pm
costs about AR$50. Local buses (AR$6) run & 2-6pm) Chilecito founder Don Domingo de
between the terminal and center, including Castro y Bazán owned this colonial flour
numbers 2, 6, 7 and 8. mill, which houses an eclectic assemblage of

archaeological tools, antique arms, early co-
lonial documents, minerals, traditional wood
Chilecito and leather crafts, banknotes, stuffed birds,
woodcuts, cellphones and paintings. It’s four
% 03825 / POP 33,700 / ELEV 1080M blocks west of the plaza.

With a gorgeous situation among low rocky La Riojana WINERY
hills and sizable snowcapped peaks, Chile­
cito, a stop on spectacular RN 40, has several (%03825-423150; www.lariojana.com.ar; La Plata
interesting things to see, including an amaz- 646; htours 11am, noon, 1pm, 3pm & 4pm Mon-Fri,
ing abandoned cableway leading to a mine

282 the plaza, this comfortable spot offers a
10am, 11am & noon Sat) F La Riojana co- variety of rooms with decent enough beds
operative is the area’s main wine producer, and clean, spacious bathrooms. Check out a
and a sizable concern; some 30 million liters few – some look over a vine-covered patio to
a year are produced here. A good free tour the hills beyond.
shows you through the bodega – think large
concrete fermentation tanks rather than Hotel El Caudillo GUESTHOUSE $
rows of musty barrels – and culminates in a (Hostal Mary Pérez; %03825-423156; hostal_mp@
generous tasting. It’s a block north and five hotmail.com; Florencio Dávila 280; s/d US$25/50;
west of the plaza. aW) The enterprising owner is gradually

T Tours remodelling and modernizing this former
guesthouse, and doing rather a good job of
Cuesta Vieja TOURS it. Rooms are darkish and have excellent

(%03825-424874; www.cuestavieja.com.ar; Gon­ mattresses; there’s also a good split-level
zález 467) This friendly, reliable Chilecito tour
operator is an excellent choice for excursions room for groups, with kitchen access. A de-
cent deal on a quiet street.
into the sierra, to Parque Nacional Talam-
paya and Parque Provincial Ischigualasto, or
for heading up in the air for a scenic flight. MAC Royal Suites HOTEL $$$
(%03825-422002; www.macroyalsuites.com; 19
de Febrero 361; s/d/ste US$242/363/545; ai-
Salir del Cráter TOUR Wsc) Mimicking the color of the sur-

(%03825-15-679620; www.salirdelcrater.com.ar) rounding hills but out of place in low-rise
A recommended Chilecito operator running
excursions around western La Rioja prov- Chilecito, this modern hotel bears the ini-
tials of the casino magnate owner. Facilities,
Sa lta & th e A n d e a n N o rth w e s t CT oahtui laresmcairt coa & L a R i o ja ince, including Parque Nacional Talampaya. which include indoor and outdoor pools,
Competent booking procedures and excel-
lent guides. saunas, a cactus garden and a modern gym,
are great. Rooms are stylish and spacious,
4 Sleeping with hydromassage bathtubs and elegant
furniture. Still, it seems overpriced, and wi-
oPosada Nocenta Pisetta GUESTHOUSE $ fi is charged. Service, though, is warm and
enthusiastic.
(%03825-498108; [email protected];
Finca la Cuadra, off RP 12; d US$60-70, q US$95; 5 Eating & Drinking
aWs) This historic country ranch makes
a great place to stay, 4km from central Chile­ oEl Rancho de Ferrito ARGENTINE $
cito. It belonged to the owner’s grand­father, (Av Pelagio Luna 647; mains AR$60-110; h11am-
and the fine, thick-walled adobe house offers 3pm & 7-11pm Tue-Sat, 11am-3pm Sun) A block
sparely decorated chambers with antique west and seven north of the plaza, this in-
wooden furnishings and original floor- viting local restaurant is worth every step.
boards and tiles. All are different: there’s a You’ve seen the menu before – except for
particularly good family suite, though only house specialties such as cazuela de gallina
kids over 12 are admitted. The welcome is (chicken stew: yum) and local wines – but
genuine: a wonderful place. the quality, price and authentic atmosphere

El Viejo Molino GUESTHOUSE $ make it truly excellent.

(%03825-429445; [email protected]; Jamín Yops BAR
Ocampo 64; s/d/q US$46/61/91; aWc) Run
with a warmly personal touch, this attrac- (AE Dávila 70; h9:15am-2pm & 8:30pm-2am Mon-
Sat) Simple but atmospheric, this bohemian
tive spot overlooks a small garden next spot is comfortably Chilecito’s best cafe, serv-
to the Molino de San Francisco museum.
Modern rooms are comfortable, stylish and ing fine coffee, cold beer and decent mixed
drinks. Watch the locals’ epic chess battles.
well equipped. There’s an appealing restau-
rant serving pizzas and regional specialties,
sierra views and a beautifully peaceful 88 Information
atmosphere.
The plaza has banks with ATMs.
Hotel Ruta 40 HOTEL $ Tourist Office (% 03825-429665; www.emu
(%03825-422804; Libertad 68; s/d US$25/40, tur.com.ar; Castro y Bazán 52; h 9am-10pm;
without bathroom US$20/35; aW) A laid- W) Half a block off the plaza. There’s also a
booth at the bus terminal.

back budget hotel a couple of blocks from

88 Getting There & Away 283
and there’s little walking involved; never­
The bus terminal (Av Presidente Perón s/n; W) theless, take water and protection from the
is 1.5km south of the center. It’s a spectacular fierce sun. For a little extra, you can extend the
trip from La Rioja (AR$120, three hours), passing visit to another canyon or do the route on the
the red rock formations of Los Colorados en roof of a truck. Other visits include further-­
route, with the snowcapped Sierra de Famatina flung valleys and other parts of the park.
in the background. There are direct services
from Chilecito to further-flung destinations such Guided walks (AR$300 to AR$400) and
as Buenos Aires. La Riojana (% 03825-424710; trips on bicycles (AR$400) are also availa-
Maestro 61; AR$150) minibuses also do the La ble; a more appealing way of exploring if
Rioja run a little quicker (2½ hours). the heat’s not too intense, though you’ll still
likely have to pay for transportation into the
There are no buses north to Belén; to avoid park if you’re on foot. There are night excur-
the lengthy backtrack you could join a tour to sions (AR$350) when there’s a full moon. Be
El Shincal. Otherwise, there’s an Andesmar bus aware that different excursions are operat-
twice a week to Tinogasta at 4am. Better con- ed by different companies, so it can be dif-
nections north are envisaged. ficult to get the full information on what’s
available.
Parque Nacional
Talampaya Cañón de Talampaya CANYON

The spectacular rock formations and can- The focus of a visit to the park is this spectac-
yons of this dusty desert national park ular dry (usually) watercourse bounded by
(%03825-470356; www.parquesnacionales.gob. sheer sandstone cliffs. Condors soar on ther-
ar; admission foreigner/Mercosur/Argentine/car mals, and guanacos, rheas and maras can be
AR$120/100/70/15; hexcursions 8am-5pm Oct- seen in the shade of algarrobo trees along Sa lta & th e A n d e a n N o rth w e s t CGPaetrttqaimunaegrNcTaahce&iroeLnaa&lRAiTwoaajlayampaya
Feb, 8:30am-4:30pm Mar-Sep) are evidence of the sandy canyon floor. A series of enigmatic
the erosive action of water; these days it’s petroglyphs carved into oxidized sandstone
hard to believe that ever existed here. The slabs are the first stop on the standard visit,
sandstone cliffs are amazing, as are the dis- followed by in-canyon highlights such as the
tant surrounding mountainscapes. Talam- Chimenea, whose impressive echo is a guar-
paya is relatively close to fossil-rich Parque anteed hit; the Catedral formation and the
Provincial Ischigualasto in San Juan prov- clerical figure of El Monje.
ince, and it’s easy to combine the two if you
have transportation or visit with a tour. Ciudad Perdida &

1 Sights & Activities Cañón Arco Iris ROCK FORMATION

You must enter by guided visit, arranged at In another part of the park, accessed from
the visitor center. The standard 2½-hour the road 14km before reaching the main
(AR$360) trip is in a comfortable minibus park entrance, these impressive formations
are accessed via guided 4WD tours, which
wait to fill (AR$250 to AR$300; three to four
hours).

WESTERN RIOJA TRIPS

The western portion of La Rioja province is fascinating, with plenty of intriguing desti-
nations in the sierras. The towns of Chilecito and Villa Unión are launchpads for a range
of excellent excursions. Parque Nacional Talampaya (p283) is one appealing trip,
which also takes in the Parque Provincial Ischigualasto and (from Chilecito) crosses
the picturesque Miranda pass. For some serious 4WD mountain action, head up to the
abandoned mine at La Mejicana (4603m), an ascent that takes in some amazing scen-
ery and a broad palette of colors, including a striking yellow river. Deeper into the sierras
by the Chilean border is sizable Laguna Brava, a flamingo-filled lake surrounded by
awesomely bleak and beautiful Andean scenery. Higher still, at 5600m, is the remote
sapphire-blue crater lake of Corona del Inca, only accessible in summer.

Operators in Chilecito such as Salir del Cráter (p282) and Cuesta Vieja
(p282) run these trips, which cost around US$100 to US$400 for up to four people. In
Villa Unión, a good operator is Runacay (p278). Companies collaborate to try and put
a group together.

284

Sendero Triásico MUSEUM 88 Getting There & Away

This ‘Triassic’ path takes you past life-size Buses from La Rioja to Pagancillo and Villa Unión
replicas of dinosaurs whose fossilized remains (AR$110, 3½ hours) will leave you at the park
have been found in the Talamp­ aya area. entrance, from where it’s only a 500m walk to
the visitor center. The earliest bus (Facundo)
4 Sleeping & Eating leaves La Rioja at 7am, giving you plenty of time
to make a day trip. There’s a bus (% 03825-
There’s shadeless camping at the visitor 527178) between Villa Unión, 58km up the road,
center, which has decent toilets and showers. and Chilecito (AR$125, three hours) over the
A cafe there serves meals and cold drinks. spectacular Miranda Pass. It leaves Villa Unión
at 3pm on Mondays, Thursdays and Sundays;
Simple accommodations are available you can make it if you cadge a lift off someone in
in Pagancillo, 29km north. A further 29km your tour group. A Friday bus also leaves nearby
up the road, larger Villa Unión has several Guandacol at 5pm. From Chilecito, departures
cabin and hotel options, some quite stylish. are 1:30pm Monday, Wednesday and Saturday,
and 1pm Friday.
88 Information
If you want to see Talampaya and Ischigualasto
The visitor center is just off the RP 26. Here you in one day, tour operators in La Rioja (p278)
pay the admission and arrange guided visits. En- or Chilecito (p283) will do it. It can be cheaper
try is valid for two days and includes a free jaunt taking a remise from either of those or from
that introduces biological and cultural aspects closer Villa Unión.
of the park. Don’t sweat if you miss it: you get
most of this info on park tours, too.

Sa lta & th e A n d e a n N o rth w e s t SClaeteapmianrgc&a E&aLtai nRgi o ja

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

Córdoba & the Central
Sierras

Includes  Why Go?

Córdoba...................... 287 Argentina’s second city is bursting with life. Home to not
La Cumbre.................. 301 one but seven major universities, Córdoba has a young pop­
San Marcos Sierras....302 ulation that ensures an excellent nightlife and a healthy cul­
Alta Gracia..................304 tural scene. Córdoba also boasts a fascinating history, owing
Villa General its architectural and cultural heritage to the Jesuits, who set
Belgrano......................308 up shop here when they first arrived in Argentina.
La Cumbrecita............309
Mina Clavero............... 310 The rolling hill country out of town is dotted with places
Merlo............................ 311 that could grab your attention for a day or a month, includ­
San Luis.......................312 ing five Jesuit missions that make for an easy day trip from
Valle de Conlara...........316 the capital.

Best Places Adventure buffs also head to the hills where the para­
to Eat gliding is excellent, or to a couple of national parks that offer
excellent trekking opportunities.
¨¨El Bistro del Alquimista
(p305) Further to the southwest, the Valle de Conlara and Sierras
¨¨La Nieta ‘e la Pancha (p294) Puntanas offer a real chance to get away from the crowds
¨¨Tono (p312) and into the heart of the countryside.
¨¨Kasbah (p302)
¨¨El Paseo (p309) When to Go Rainfall inches/mm
10/250
Best Places Córdoba
to Stay
°C/°F Temp
¨¨279 Boutique B&B (p305)
¨¨Hotel Azur Real (p293) 40/104
¨¨Hostel Rupestre (p293)
¨¨Estancia La Estanzuela 30/86 8/200
(p316)
¨¨Hospedaje Casa Rosita 20/68 6/150
(p309)
10/50 4/100

0/32 2/50

-10/14 MAM J 0
JF J ASOND

Nov–Feb During Mar–Jun Clear, Jul–Sep Chances
the day, cool off cool days with of snow at higher
riverside in the Si- occasional rain – altitudes. Low
erras. At night, hit ideal for outdoor rainfall makes
Córdoba’s bars. activities. for good trekking
weather.

286 Catamarca 0 100 km
0 50 miles
LA RIOJA
Santiago
del Estero

La Rioja Salinas San Francisco Villa de
Grandes del Chañar María
Patquía
RP

3RN8 18

Chamical Deán Funes Villa Córdoba
Tulumba

Cruz del Eje RN

38 Santa Villa de RP
Capilla Catalina Totoral
del Monte Jesús María 17
La Cumbre
Ascochinga Río Primero
1RP5 La Falda Salsipuedes
Cosquín 1R7P
R3P
(SM(11aJS46enu0n0aJakdkunmmonazn))aNQPSiaauerH1cirRq4jNirua7oBuaadanelLdtlaadaaTseslreoáVmElnCaEleaCssTarltbrareaae2oRsrnN0prntlcaaiiaicnashaeQE1Rl4uN6VinR9oPeSlLcsIHaáunlL2RaLnP0ujantáaiaPnVCsAiLieialnldRsuaNgaTLraoDiiadlsisSPoseTtaaViuloSonBrlRCrsiaamrtlraaloenalooaacassdtMca1aavCChaR4tNe8ueeiunrrrmoaoSaRa1CPVdbnPeELaMritlalaseallaatpeCcamERraiaRnLsTlotgourtcíaaasm2aoRacinNa0anhyeVCtzoVdiintDiuusealRi8llNeaailVqalratuiQPldoleaae3uRAGrN6leGqCSblruetóaareanancrTedNdieAraaRro1aagRc5ídlcRNobe8uieBR9ríoaNsleootnClígnaR8NoPlraniTlnadeororrcViRteoiorllsoaaO1RMdrN9RileVoiaívlioralílaaSR4Pegun1RdP3oR9N 1R5N8
C ó rd o ba & th e C e ntr a l Si e rr as & t h e C e n t r al S i e r r as H i g h l i g h t s SAN 148 3RN5 La Carlotta
RN LUIS
RN
7
7

Mercedes

Córdoba & the Central Sierras Highlights

1 Lapping up the culture 4 Taking a breather at the 6 Mellowing out in the
and wandering the gorgeous atmospheric 17th-century pedestrian-only mountain
streets of the stately city of Jesuit estancia (ranch) of village of La Cumbrecita
Córdoba (p287). Santa Catalina (p305). (p309).
2 Checking out ancient caves, 5 Breaking in your hiking 7 Visiting Che’s house in
rock art and stunning scenery boots among the surreal Alta Gracia (p304).
around Carolina (p315). rock formations of Parque 8 Cooling off riverside in the
3 Getting high with the Nacional Sierra de las quaint resort town of Mina
paragliding fanatics at La Quijadas (p315). Clavero (p310).
Cumbre (p301).

287

National Parks the plaza, where the main pedestrian malls –
25 de Mayo and Rivera Indarte – intersect.
In San Luis province, the rarely visited Obispo Trejo, just west of the plaza, has the
Parque Nacional Sierra de las Quijadas is finest concentration of colonial buildings.
an excellent alternative to the better-known Just south of downtown, Parque Sarmiento
Parque Provincial Ischigualasto in San Juan offers relief from the bustling, densely built
province: getting there is far easier, and downtown.
you’ll often have the desert canyons and
rock formations all to yourself. Parque Na­ East–west streets change names at San
cional Quebrada del Condorito is well worth Martín/Independencia and north–south
a day trip from Córdoba to see the impres­ streets change at Deán Funes/Rosario de
sive Andean condors the park protects. Santa Fe.

88 Getting There & Around 1 Centro

Córdoba makes an excellent stop if you’re Downtown Córdoba is a treasure of colonial
heading south or southwest toward Mendoza. buildings and other historical monuments.
The city has bus connections throughout the
country. Iglesia Catedral CATHEDRAL

The towns throughout the sierras are all easily (cnr Independencia & 27 de Abril; h8am-8pm Mon-
accessible by public transportation, but many Fri, 8am-noon & 5-8pm Sat & Sun) The construc­
tiny, remote towns and Jesuit estancias (ranch- tion of Córdoba’s cathedral began in 1577
es) can only be reached with your own wheels. and dragged on for more than two centuries
The sierras’ dense network of roads, many well under several architects, including Jesuits
paved but others only gravel, make them good and Franciscans, and though it lacks any
candidates for bicycle touring; Argentine drivers sense of architectural unity, it’s a beautiful
here seem a bit less ruthless than elsewhere structure. Crowned by a Romanesque dome,
in the country. A mountain bike is still the best it overlooks Plaza San Martín. The lavish
choice. interior was painted by renowned cordobés

(Córdoban) painter Emilio Caraffa. C ó rd o ba & th e C e ntr a l Si e rr as CG Óóe RtrtDdiOonBbgaAT h e r e & A r o u n d

CÓRDOBA Museo de la Memoria MUSEUM

% 0351 / POP 1.317 MILLION / ELEV 400M (www.apm.gov.ar; San Jerónimo s/n; h10am-
5pm Tue-Fri) F A chilling testament to
It’s an old guidebook cliché, but Córdoba the excesses of Argentina’s military dic­
really is a fascinating mix of old and new. tatorship, this museum occupies a space
Where else will you find DJs spinning electro- formerly used as a clandestine center for
tango in crowded student bars next to detention and torture. It was operated by
17th-century Jesuit ruins? the dreaded Department of Intelligence
(D2), a special division created in Córdoba,
Despite being a whopping 715km away dedicated to the kidnap and torture of sus­
from Buenos Aires, Córdoba is anything but pected political agitators and the ‘reassign­
a provincial backwater – in 2006 the city ment’ of their children to less politically
was awarded the hefty title of Cultural Capi­ suspect families.
tal of the Americas, and the title fitted like The space itself is stark and unembel­
a glove. Four excellent municipal galleries – lished, and the walls are covered with en­
dedicated to emerging, contemporary, clas­ larged photographs of people who are still
sical and fine art respectively – are within ‘missing’ after 30 years. There’s not much joy
easy walking distance of each other and the here, but the museum stands as a vital re­
city center. minder of an era that human-rights groups
hope will never be forgotten.
1 Sights
Museo Histórico Provincial
There’s plenty to see, so allow yourself at
least a couple of days for wandering around. Marqués de Sobremonte MUSEUM
Most churches are open roughly from 9am
to noon and from 5pm to 8pm. Museum (%0351-433-1661; Rosario de Santa Fe 218; ad-
opening hours change regularly depending mission AR$15; h9:30am-2:30pm Mon-Fri) It’s
on the season and the administration. worth dropping into this museum, one of
the most important historical museums in
Most colonial sites lie within a few blocks the country, if only to see the colonial house
of Plaza San Martín, the city’s urban nucleus. it occupies: an 18th-century home that once
The commercial center is just northwest of

288

Córdoba BC D
A Captain Blue
Av Alcorta Plaza (200m)Igualdad
1 La Rioja 53 #ý Jujuy General
Santa Rosa #ú Humberto Primo Paz Tablada
Av Colón #ú 47 Sucre 45 #ú
#ú 31 Tucumán35
2 #ú Av General Paz Catamarca
39 #ú ï#
Rivera Indarte DACA
41 La Rioja
Rivadavia
Santa Rosa 51 #ý

Av Marcelo T de Alvear Av Colón ò# #ú 48 Lima
29 ÿ#

9 de Julio 6 â#

27 de Abril 16 CENTRO Basílica Nuestra
3 14 Señora de
# â# la Merced
Ü#
Funes 24

ÿ# 21

C ó rd o ba & th e C e ntr a l Si e rr as CS iÓógRrhDdtOosBbaA 4 Caseros MoBntlvedvidSSeaoonbPrJaeusmIaenoontenPdntleeadzelaanci5a#ûPI0tlaaDlziuaaaSrtaenQtoBu4#úiaD2rMJ2só7oeísalmsdi#ýcnueiazníA5tagdæ#bi4oencrÜaa#i1l51#7#æâ#Ü#8L#ú#ú31eP27g3r#úo3i6sv8l#þ5ain7tcuâ#1irÜ#a91elC1#74#8oâ#1Ü#60r#ïCIrn#úiaef#osnÿ#3BCartM0mPeoaCSsavlbaaaaeritzlnbtridíaoiinolSndRaoOon2sÿ#TfaJf6orieciuroeórdinseitmS3#úa3onâ#ÿ#ta F12e3ÿ#3Belgrano

Avacucho
Alvear

de Independencia
Buenos Aires
T Ituzaingó
Av Chacabuco
GÜEMES Marcelo Plaza #ý Mercado Sud
San Luis Vélez ›# Minibus
5 Av Sársfield 52 Terminal

Laprida Blvd4Il3lía#ú
19 #
#û 49 Av H Yrigoyen #ú Rondeau

La Cañada 55 56 Paseo San4L4orenzo
Trejo del Buen
#þ #þ ÿ# Pastor
â# 4
Av Ro#údrí4g#ú0uez3227
6 Fructuo3s#úo4 Rivera NUEVA Ü# 15
CÓRDOBA

20 ÿ# ÿ# Oro

Belgrano 22
Av Vélez Sársfield
IndependenciaLarrañaga Derqui Av Leopoldo Lugones
Estrada Museo Superior 3
de Bellas Artes Evita â#

7 Plaza 2 Museo Provincial
España â# de Bellas Artes
Peredo Crisol
Emilio Caraffa

ABCD

e# 0 400 m 289
0 0.2 miles belonged to Rafael Núñez, the colonial
E F governor of Córdoba and later viceroy of
the Río de la Plata. It has 26 rooms, seven
Rincón 1 interior patios, meter-thick walls and an im­
pressive wrought-iron balcony supported by
Libertad carved wooden brackets.
#ú Oncativo
Av Las Heras Cripta Jesuítica MUSEUM
Blvd Guzmán
(cnr Rivera Indarte & Av Colón; admission AR$5;
h10am-4pm Mon-Fri) Built at the beginning of
the 18th century by the Jesuits, the Cripta
Jesuítica was originally designed as a no­
Sarmiento vitiate and later converted to a crypt and
crematorium. Abandoned after the Jesuit
2 expulsion, it was demolished and buried

Alvear around 1829 when the city, while expanding
Av Maipú Av Colón, knocked the roof into the sub­
Salta terranean naves and built over the entire
Río Primero structure. It remained all but forgotten until
Telecom, while laying underground tele­
phone cable in 1989, accidentally ran into it.
The city, with a new outlook on such
ÿ# Av Olmos 3 treasures, exquisitely restored the crypt and
25 de Mayo
Santiago del Estero uses it regularly for musical and theatrical
performances and art exhibits. Entrances lie
on either side of Av Colón in the middle of
the Rivera Indarte pedestrian mall.

Museo Municipal de Bellas Artes C ó rd o ba & th e C e ntr a l Si e rr as CS iÓógRrhDdtOosBbaA

Ü# Iglesia Dr Genaro Pérez GALLERY
San Roque
4 (Av General Paz 33; h10am-8pm Tue-Sun) F
This art gallery is prized for its collection
San Jerónimo2ÿ#5 28 of paintings from the 19th and 20th cen­
turies. Works, including those by Emilio
Salguero ÿ# Caraffa, Lucio Fontana, Lino Spilimbergo,
Estación Antonio Berni and Antonio Seguí, chrono­
logically display the history of the cordobés
Ferrocarril £# school of painting, at the front of which
Mitre 5 stands Genaro Pérez himself. The museum
#ú Paraná
Bus
Terminal Blvd Perón is housed in Palacio Garzón, an unusual late-­
19th-­century building named for its original
›# owner; it also has outstanding changing

Balcarce contemporary art exhibits.
Allende Dorrego
Plaza San Martín & Around PLAZA

Córdoba’s lovely and lively central plaza
6 dates from 1577. Its western side is dom­
Sabattini inated by the white arcade of the restored
Cabildo (colonial town-council building),
completed in 1785 and containing three inte­
rior patios, as well as basement cells. All are
open to the public as part of the Museo de
la Ciudad (Independencia 30; admission AR$7;
Parque h9:30am-12:30pm & 3-5pm Mon-Fri, 9.30am-1pm
Sarmiento 7 & 3-7pm Sat & Sun), a block to the south.
Occupying nearly half a city block, the
F
Iglesia de Santa Teresa y Convento

E de Carmelitas Descalzas de San José

290

C ó rd o ba & th e C e ntr a l Si e rr as CS iÓógRrhDdtOosBbaA Córdoba 26 Hotel Sussex ............................................D4
27 Hotel Viena ...............................................B6
æ Top Sights 28 Hotel Viña de Italia .................................. F4
1 Manzana Jesuítica .................................. C4 29 Sacha Mistol.............................................C2
2 Museo Provincial de Bellas Artes 30 Windsor Hotel ..........................................D4
Emilio Caraffa....................................... D7 ú Eating
3 Museo Superior de Bellas Artes 31 Alcorta ......................................................B2
Evita ....................................................... C7 32 Brunchería................................................B6
4 Paseo del Buen Pastor ........................... C6 33 Bursatil......................................................D4
34 El Arrabal ..................................................A6
æ Sights 35 El Gran Vidrio ........................................... B1
5 Colegio Nacional de Monserrat ............ C4 36 El Ruedo....................................................C3
6 Cripta Jesuítica ....................................... C3 37 La Alameda ..............................................C4
7 Iglesia Catedral ....................................... C4 38 La Candela................................................C4
8 Iglesia de la Compañía de Jesús........... C4 39 La Mamma ...............................................B2
9 Iglesia de Santa Teresa y Convento 40 La Nieta 'e la Pancha...............................B6
de Carmelitas Descalzas de 41 La Parrilla de Raul....................................B2
San José................................................ C4 42 La Vieja Esquina.......................................B4
43 La Zete ......................................................D5
10 Museo de la Ciudad ................................ C4 44 Mega Doner..............................................C6
11 Museo de la Memoria ............................. C3 45 Mercado Norte......................................... D1
12 Museo Histórico de la Universidad 46 Novecento ................................................C3
47 Patio de la Cañada .................................. B1
Nacional de Córdoba........................... C4 48 Sol y Luna .................................................C2
13 Museo Histórico Provincial û Drinking & Nightlife
49 Los Infernales ..........................................B5
Marqués de Sobremonte .................... D4 50 Maria Maria ..............................................B4
Museo Iberoamericano de ý Entertainment
51 Centro Cultural Casona Municipal ........C2
Artesanías....................................(see 55) 52 Cineclub Municipal Hugo del
14 Museo Municipal de Bellas Artes
Carril....................................................... C5
Dr Genaro Pérez .................................. C3 53 La Sala del Rey......................................... B1
15 Parroquia Sagrado Corazón de 54 Teatro del Libertador General San

Jesús de los Capuchinos .................... C6 Martín.....................................................C4
þ Shopping
Ø Activities, Courses & Tours
16 Able Spanish School............................... C3 55 Feria Artisanal..........................................A6
17 Facultad de Lenguas .............................. C4 56 Paseo Colonial .........................................B6
18 Nativo Viajes............................................ C4 57 Talabartería Crespo ................................C4
19 Tsunami Tango ....................................... A5

ÿ Sleeping
20 Gaiadhon Hostel ..................................... C6
21 Hostel Alvear ........................................... D3
22 Hostel Rupestre ...................................... C6
23 Hotel Azur Real ....................................... D4
24 Hotel Garden ........................................... D3
25 Hotel Quetzal............................................E4

(cnr Caseros & Independencia; h6-8pm) was Colegio Nacional de Monserrat BUILDING
completed in 1628 and has functioned ever (Obispo Trejo 294) The Colegio Nacional de
since as a closed-order convent for Carmel­ Monserrat dates from 1782, though the col­
ite nuns. Only the church itself is open to lege itself was founded in 1687 and trans­
visitors. ferred after the Jesuit expulsion. Though the
interior cloisters are original, the exterior
oManzana Jesuítica BUILDING was considerably modified in 1927 by re­
storing architect Jaime Roca, who gave the
Córdoba’s beautiful Manzana Jesuítica (Jes­ building its present baroque flare.
uit Block), like that in Buenos Aires, is also
known as the Manzana de las Luces (Block of
Enlightenment), and was initially associated Museo Histórico de la Universidad

with the influential Jesuit order. The Colegio Nacional de Córdoba MUSEUM

Nacional de Monserrat is next door. In 2000 (Obispo Trejo 242; guided visits per person AR$15;
htours Mon-Sat 10am & 5pm in English, 11am &
Unesco declared the Manzana Jesuítica a 3pm in Spanish) In 1613 Fray Fernando de
World Heritage site, along with five Jesuit
estancias throughout the province. Trejo y Sanabria founded the Seminario
Convictorio de San Javier, which, after being

291

elevated to university status in 1622, became oPaseo del Buen Pastor GALLERY
the Universidad Nacional de Córdoba. The
university is the country’s oldest and con­ (Av H Yrigoyen 325; h10am-9pm) F This
tains, among other national treasures, part cultural center and performance space was
of the Jesuits’ Grand Library and the Museo built in 1901 as a combined chapel, mon­
Histórico de la Universidad Nacional de astery and women’s prison. In mid-2007
Córdoba. it was re-inaugurated to showcase work
by Córdoba’s young and emerging artists.
Guided visits are the only way to see the There are a couple of hip cafe-bars in the
inside and are well worth taking. The guides central patio area where you can kick back
let you wander through the Colegio and with an Appletini or two. The attached
peek into the classrooms while students run chapel (which has been desanctified) hosts
around. regular live-music performances – stop by

Iglesia de la Compañía de Jesús CHURCH for a program, or check Thursday’s edition
(cnr Obispo Trejo & Caseros; h7am-1pm & 5-8pm) of the local newspaper La Voz del Interior
F Designed by the Flemish Padre for details.

Philippe Lemaire, this church dates from oMuseo Superior de Bellas
1645 but was not completed until 1671, with
the successful execution of Lemaire’s plan Artes Evita GALLERY
for a cedar roof in the form of an inverted
ship’s hull. Lemaire, unsurprisingly, was (Av H Yrigoyen 551; admission AR$15, free Wed;
once a boat builder. Inside, the church’s ba­ h10am-8pm Tue-Sun) The Palacio Ferrerya –
roque altarpiece is made from carved Para­ Nueva Córdoba’s landmark building – was
guayan cedar from Misiones province. built in 1914 and designed by Ernest Sanson
in the Louis XVI style. The building itself is
The Capilla Doméstica, completed in amazing, and has recently been converted
1644, sits on Caseros, directly behind the into this fine-arts museum, featuring more
church. Its ornate ceiling was made with than 400 works in 12 rooms spread over
cowhide stretched over a skeleton of thick three floors. If you’re into art or architecture,
taguaro cane and painted with pigments this place is a don’t-miss.
composed partially of boiled bones. C ó rd o ba & th e C e ntr a l Si e rr as CS iÓógRrhDdtOosBbaA
oMuseo Provincial de Bellas

Artes Emilio Caraffa GALLERY

1 Nueva Córdoba & Güemes (www.museocaraffa.org; Av H Yrigoyen 651; ad-
mission AR$15; h10am-8pm Tue-Sun) One of
Before the northwestern neighborhoods of the city’s best contemporary art museums
Chateau Carreras and Cerro de las Rosas stands ostentatiously on the eastern side
lured the city’s elite to their peaceful hill­ of Plaza España. Architect Juan Kronfuss
sides, Nueva Córdoba was the neighborhood designed the neoclassical building as a mu­
of the cordobés aristocracy. It’s now popular seum and it was inaugurated in 1916. Exhib­
with students, which explains the prolifera­ its change monthly. South of the museum
tion of brick high-rise apartment buildings. the city unfolds into its largest open-space
Still, a stroll past the stately old residences area, the Parque Sarmiento, designed by
that line the wide Av H Yrigoyen reveals the Charles Thays, the architect who designed
area’s aristocratic past. Mendoza’s Parque General San Martín.

Once a strictly working-class neighbor­
hood, Güemes is now known for the eclec­ Parroquia Sagrado Corazón de
tic antique stores and artisan shops that Jesús de los Capuchinos CHURCH

line the main drag of Belgrano, between (cnr Buenos Aires & Obispo Oro) If you’re in the
Rodríguez and Laprida. Its weekend feria neighborhood, it’s worth stopping by to
artisanal, one of the country’s best, teems check out this marvelous neo-Gothic church
with antique vendors, arts and crafts and a built between 1928 and 1934, whose glaring
healthy dose of Córdoba’s hippies. It’s within oddity is its missing steeple (omitted on
the same block as the Museo Iberoamer- purpose to symbolize human imperfection).
icano de Artesanías (cnr Belgrano & Laprida; Among the numerous sculptures that cov­
h10am-3pm Mon-Fri,10am-9pm Sat & Sun) F, er the church’s facade are those of Atlases
which houses beautiful crafts from through­ symbolically struggling to bare the spiritual
out South America. A good way back to the weight of the religious figures above them
city center is along La Cañada, an acacia-­ (and the sins and guilt of the rest of us).
lined stone canal with arched bridges.

292 4 Centro

C Courses Hostel Alvear HOSTEL $
(% 0351-421-6502; www.alvearhostel.com.ar;
Córdoba is an excellent place to study Span­ Alvear 158; dm/d from US$11/38; iW) An ex­
ish; in many ways, being a student is what cellent location and spacious dorms set in
Córdoba is all about. Lessons cost about an atmospheric old building make this one
AR$70 per hour for one-on-one tuition or
AR$800 per week in small classes.

Facultad de Lenguas LANGUAGE COURSE of the better hostels in the downtown area.

(%0351-433-1074; www.lenguas.unc.edu.ar; Av Hotel Quetzal HOTEL $
Vélez Sársfield 187; h9am-3pm Mon-Fri) Spanish
school; part of the Universidad Nacional de (%0351-426-5117; www.hotelquetzal.com.ar; San
Jerónimo 579; s/d US$43/64; aiW) Spacious,
Córdoba. minimalistic, modern rooms are on offer

Able Spanish School LANGUAGE COURSE here. A surprisingly tranquil option in a

(%0351-422-4692; www.ablespanish.com; Tucu­ busy neighborhood.
mán 76; h9am-8pm Mon-Sat) Offers accommo­
dation and afternoon activities at extra cost Sacha Mistol HOTEL $$
(%0351-424-2646; www.sachamistol.com; Rivera
and discounts for extended study. Indarte 237; r from US$98; aWs) Another of

Tsunami Tango DANCE Córdoba’s new breed of stylish and original

(Laprida 453) Tango classes and milongas hotels. Rooms are spacious and comfortable,
(tango halls) from Tuesday to Sunday. Check decorated with eclectic art and well-chosen
www.tangoencordoba.com.ar for their sched­ furnishings. It’s set in a carefully renovated
ule and other tango-related information for classic house and features art exhibitions
Córdoba in general. and a small lap pool all in a quiet, central
location on the pedestrian mall.
T Tours
Hotel Garden HOTEL $$
All of the city’s hostels and most of the ho­ (%0351-421-4729; www.garden-hotel.com.ar; 25
C ó rd o ba & th e C e ntr a l Si e rr as C ÓóoRruDdr sOoeBbsaA tels can arrange tours within the city and de Mayo 35; s/d US$60/78; aW) About as cen­
around the province. tral as it gets. The large, modern rooms here

City Tours WALKING TOUR are probably the best deal in this price range
and certainly the best deal in the downtown
(tours in Spanish/English AR$50/80) Absorb area. Breakfast is served in a cafe around the
Córdoba’s rich history by taking one of the
guided walking tours that depart at 9:30am corner. Staff can also hook you up with some
very good value apartments in various loca­
and 11:30am Monday to Friday from Casa tions around the downtown area.
Cabildo. Reserve a day in advance if you
want a tour in English. There are also free
thematic tours on an irregular basis – ask at Hotel Viña de Italia HOTEL $$
(%0351-425-1678; www.hotelvinadeitalia.com.ar;
the tourist office to see the schedule. San Jerónimo 611; s/d US$50/62, apt US$80-92;

z Festivals & Events aW) There’s a bit of elegance left in this
150-room hotel, and the midsize rooms in­
During the first three weeks of April, the clude TV, phone, air-con and heating. The
city puts on a large crafts market (local­ rooms aren’t nearly as graceful as the lobby,
ly called ‘FICO’) at the city fairgrounds, in but they’re still a good deal, especially the
the north near Chateau Carreras stadium. apartments, which sleep four to six.
Bus 31 from Plaza San Martín goes there.
Mid-September’s Feria del Libro is a re­ Windsor Hotel HOTEL $$
gional book fair. (%0351-422-4012; www.windsortower.com; Bue-
nos Aires 214; r/ste US$112/130; aWs) In a
4 Sleeping great downtown location, the Windsor is
one of the few classic hotels in town with
Hotels on and around Plaza San Martín any real style. The lobby’s all dark wood and
make exploring the center a cinch, but you’ll brass, and the rooms have been tastefully
have to walk several blocks for dinner and renovated with modern fittings.
nightlife. Hotels along La Cañada and in
Nueva Córdoba, on the other hand, mean Hotel Sussex HOTEL $$
going out to dinner and hitting the bars is (%0351-422-9070; www.hotelsussexcba.com.ar;
a simple matter of walking down the street. San Jerónimo 125; s/d US$76/85; aWs)

293

LOS GIGANTES

This spectacular group of rock formations, 80km west of Córdoba, is fast becoming
Argentina’s rock-climbing capital. The two highest peaks are the granite giants of Cerro
de La Cruz (2185m) and El Mogote (2374m). There are numerous Andean condors – the
park is only 30km from Parque Nacional Quebrada del Condorito, and the birds have
slowly taken to this area as well. The area is home to the tabaquillo tree, with its pa-
pery peeling bark, which is endangered in Argentina and only found here and in Bolivia
and Peru.

Getting here is complicated. Sarmiento (%0351-433-2161) buses leave Córdoba’s
main bus terminal at 8am Wednesday to Monday and 6am on Tuesday (AR$92, two
hours). The bus pretty much turns around and comes back again, meaning you have to
spend the night. Schedules change frequently, so be sure to check.

Get off at El Crucero (tell the driver you’re going to Los Gigantes). From there it’s a
3km walk to La Rotonda, where there is a super-basic hospedaje (%03541-449-8370;
campsites per person AR$60, dm AR$120, kitchen use per person AR$50) and a small store
(beer, soft drinks and snacks only), which is open on weekends.

At La Rotonda you can hire guides (AR$85) to show you around the cave complexes
and take you to the top of Cerro de La Cruz. It’s not a long hike, but there is some tricky
rock scrambling involved. Guides are recommended because the maze of trails through
the rocks can be hard to follow and if the fog comes down you can easily get lost.

Córdoba hostels such as Hostel Rupestre (p293) and tour operators such as Na-
tivo Viajes (%0351-424-5341; Independencia 174; h9am-6pm Mon-Fri, 10am-3pm Sun) offer
trekking excursions and day trips to Los Gigantes. Córdoba’s tourist office maintains a
list of rock-climbing guides.

Another wonderful lobby (this one sporting Gaiadhon Hostel HOSTEL $ C ó rd o ba & th e C e ntr a l Si e rr as CEaÓótRriDdnOogBbaA
vaulted ceilings, grand piano and fine art) (%0351-15-800-5923; www.gaiadhonhostel.com.
leads on to more workaday rooms. At this ar; Buenos Aires 768; dm US$11-13, s/d without
price, you’d want to be getting plaza views. bathroom US$26/39; W) A cozy little hostel
tucked away in a good location. If it ever
oHotel Azur Real BOUTIQUE HOTEL $$$ fills up there wouldn’t be much elbow
(%0351-424-7133; www.azurrealhotel.com; San
Jerónimo 243; r US$130-180; aiWs) Sur­ room, but it’s got a good atmosphere, and
spotless if slightly cramped dorms and pri­
prisingly one of a kind here in Córdoba, the vate rooms.
Azur mixes minimal chic with eclectic local
and international furnishings to pull off a Hotel Viena HOTEL $$
(% 0351-460-0909; www.hotelviena.com.ar;
very stylish little boutique hotel. Rooms are Laprida 235; s/d US$59/75; aiW) This mod­
all they should be and the common areas
(including rooftop deck and pool area) are ern hotel in the heart of Nueva Córdoba
offers bright, clean rooms and an excellent
extremely inviting. breakfast buffet. There are lots of nooks for

4 Nueva Córdoba & La Cañada sitting in the lobby area, and there’s a res­
taurant on the premises. Good choice.
oHostel Rupestre
HOSTEL $ 5 Eating
(%0351-15-226-7412; www.rupestrehostel.com.ar;
Obispo Oro 242; dm US$11-14, s/d without bath-
room US$24/30; Ws) A very well-appointed, Mercado Norte MARKET $
(cnr Rivadavia & Oncativo; set meals from AR$60;
stylish hostel just on the edge of Nueva Cór­ h8am-3pm Mon-Sat) Córdoba’s indoor mar­
doba’s party zone. The location’s great and
the whole setup is very well thought out, ket has delicious and inexpensive food,
such as pizza, empanadas (baked savory
with a small wading pool on the rooftop, an turnovers) and seafood. Browsing the clean
indoor climbing gym, spacious dorms and
friendly, enthusiastic staff. stalls selling every imaginable cut of meat,
including whole chivitos (goat) and pigs, is
a must.

294

Sol y Luna VEGETARIAN $ cials are an excellent deal and there’s out­
(General Paz 278; mains from AR$45; hnoon- door seating.
3:30pm Mon-Sat; Wv) A fantastic selection of
vegetarian offerings. Pay by the kilo or choose El Ruedo CAFE $
(cnr Obispo Trejo & 27 de Abril; mains around
from the limited selection of set meals. AR$90; h7am-3am; W) It doesn’t stray too

Brunchería CAFE $ far from the steak, sandwich and pizza for­
(Rodriguez 244; mains AR$60-100; h9:30am-
1:30am Mon-Thu, 10am-3am Fri-Sun; W) Down in mula here, but the plaza-side spot under big
shady trees is a winner, as are the limona­
the hipster sector of Güemes, the Brunchería das con soda (lemon juice with soda water)
offers a great mix of fresh decor, yummy on a hot day.
food and cool music. It’s a good spot for
that second breakfast (in case the coffee and oLa Nieta ‘e la Pancha FUSION $$
(Belgrano 783; mains AR$120-170; h7pm-
croissant didn’t fill you up), but the sand­ 12:30am Mon-Fri, 11:30am-1am Sat & Sun; W) The
wiches are winners, too.
wonderful staff prepares and serves a chang­
Bursatil CAFE $ ing menu of delectable regional specialties,
(San Jerónimo & Ituzaingó; mains AR$60-90;
h8am-6pm Mon-Sat; W) Stylish, modern creative pastas and house recipes. Be sure to
save room for dessert. Check out the lovely
cafes are starting to pop up in the old part upstairs terrace, which catches breezes and
of town, and Bursatil is one of the finest.
There’s a cool modern interior, good coffee gives ample people-watching ops on the
street below.
and a small, Asian-inspired menu.
El Gran Vidrio ARGENTINE $$
(Humberto Primo 497; mains AR$110-160;
La Zete MIDDLE EASTERN $
(cnr Corrientes & Salguero; mains AR$70-110;
h10am-11pm) Excellent Middle Eastern h7:30am-7:30pm Mon-Fri, 9am-5pm Sat; W)
Fine dining in stylish surrounds. The menu
food (with a couple of Mediterranean faves doesn’t wander too far from your standard
thrown in) provides a welcome dash of varie­
C ó rd o ba & th e C e ntr a l Si e rr as CEaÓótRriDdnOogBbaA ty. There’s not much to be said for the decor, Argentine pasta and meat fare, but there’s
an enjoyable mix of ingredients (duck, goat,
but the flavors more than make up for that. couscous and seafood) and a superb wine

La Parrilla de Raul PARRILLA $ list. The on-site contemporary art gallery
adds to the appeal.
(cnr Jujuy & Santa Rosa; mains from AR$60;
hnoon-3pm & 8:30pm-12:30am; W) Of Córdo­
ba’s parrillas (steakhouses), this is probably El Arrabal ARGENTINE $$
(%0351-460-2990; Belgrano 899; mains AR$100-
one of the most famous. Parrillada (mixed 150; h11:30am-1am Tue-Sun; W) One of the
grill) for two costs only AR$120, not includ­
ing extras such as drinks or salad. few old-style restaurants in Nueva Córdoba
(OK, so it may be a reconstruction…), this
place serves slightly pricey but imaginative
Mega Doner MIDDLE EASTERN $ regional and house specialties. It packs out
(Ituzaingó 528; set meals AR$90-120; h8am-­
midnight) Conveniently located in Nueva for the dinner tango show (AR$220, dinner
included) at 11pm Thursday to Saturday.
Córdoba’s bar district, this place specializes Make a reservation.
in real giro doner kebabs. Daily lunch spe­

LOCAL FLAVOR

Looking to chow down with Córdoba’s student crowd? Pull up a stool at any of the follow-
ing, where the empanadas, beer and locro (spicy corn-and-meat stew) flow freely.

La Alameda (Obispo Trejo 170; empanadas AR$10, locro AR$50; hnoon-11:30pm) Pull up a
bench and wash down your homemade empanadas with some ice-cold beer. Then write
some graffiti on the wall.

La Candela (Duarte Quirós 67; empanadas AR$10, locro AR$45; h11am-1am) Rustic and
wonderfully atmospheric, run by three cranky but adorable señoras.

La Vieja Esquina (cnr Belgrano & Caseros; empanadas AR$8, locro AR$45; h11am-6pm
Mon-Sat) A cozy little lunch spot with stools and window seating. Order at the bar.

295

Patio de la Cañada PARRILLA $$ Los Infernales BAR

(%0351-427-0628; Alcorta 360; mains AR$120- (Belgrano 631; h8pm-5am Tue-Sun) A laid-
180; hnoon-4pm & 8.30pm-1am; W) One of back bar playing an eclectic range of music.
the better-value parrillas around, offer­ Live music Thursday to Sundays and a big
ing top-quality meats at reasonable prices. patio cervecero (beer garden) make this a
The all-you-can-eat parrilla (mixed grill; standout.
AR$95) is especially good value.
Maria Maria CLUB

La Mamma ITALIAN $$ (cnr San Juan & Alvear; h9pm-late Thu-Sun) An
(cnr Santa Rosa & Alcorta; mains AR$110-160; ever-popular spot for drinks and dancing,
hnoon-3pm & 8pm-1am Tue-Sat; W) Probably attracting a good range of locals, travelers
Córdoba’s most famous pasta restaurant, and expats.
with an excellent selection that goes far be­
yond the standard Argentine offerings. The Captain Blue CLUB

Grande Mamma sauce (featuring caramel­ (Las Heras 124; h8pm-late Wed-Sat) One of
the best spots in town to catch Latin dance
ized onions, cream cheese, mushrooms and grooves such as salsa and bachata. Week­
greens) comes highly recommended.
ends it often has live bands.

Novecento INTERNATIONAL $$ 3 Entertainment
(%0351-423-0660; cnr Rosario de Santa Fe &
Independencia; mains AR$90-130; h9am-4pm
Mon-Fri; W) There are few more atmospheric La Voz del Interior, Córdoba’s main news­
options for dining downtown than this cute paper, has a reasonably comprehensive en­
little cafe-restaurant, set in the courtyard tertainment section every Thursday with
of the historic Cabildo building. The menu show times and the like.
ticks all the ‘classic’ boxes and throws in a
few welcome surprises. Cuarteto music (a Córdoba invention) is
big here and played live in many venues.
Alcorta PARRILLA $$ Unfortunately, it’s also the gangsta rap of C ó rd o ba & th e C e ntr a l Si e rr as CD ÓórRirnDdkOoi nBbaAg & N i g h t l i f e
(%0351-424-7452; Av Alcorta 330; mains AR$120- Argentine folk music and tends to attract
170; hnoon-3:30pm & 7pm-12:30am; W) This undesirable crowds. La Sala del Rey (Hum-
upmarket parrilla, esteemed for its grilled berto Primero 439; h9pm-late Thu-Sat) is a re­
meats (many say they’re the best in town), spectable venue and the best place to catch
a cuarteto show.

also serves delicious pasta and fish. Try the Centro Cultural Casona
mollejitas al sauvignon blanc (sweetbreads
in a white wine sauce). Municipal CONCERT VENUE

(www.casonamunicipal.com.ar; cnr Av General Paz
& La Rioja; h9am-9pm Mon-Fri) Shows con­
6 Drinking & Nightlife temporary and avant-garde art, hosts con­

Córdoba’s drink of choice is fernet (a strong, certs and offers month-long art and music
medicinal-tasting herbed liquor from Italy), courses.
almost always mixed with Coke. If you don’t
mind a rough morning, get into the stuff. Teatro del Libertador

Nightlife in Córdoba basically divides General San Martín THEATER
itself into three areas. All the bright young
things barhop in Nueva Córdoba – a walk (%0351-433-2319; Av Vélez Sársfield 365; admis-
along Rondeau between Avs H Yrigoyen and sion AR$60-250; hbox office 9am-9pm) It’s well
Chacabuco after midnight gives you a choice worth going to a performance here, if only
of dozens of bars, mostly playing laid-back to see the opulence of the country’s most
(or ribcage-rattling) electronic music. For a historic theater. It was completed in 1891,
slightly older crowd and a more laid-back and the floor was designed to be mechani­
scene, check out the bar scene on Belgrano, cally raised and leveled to the stage, so seats
in the blocks around the artisans market. could be removed, allowing for grand par­
ties for the aristocracy in the early 1900s.
Across the river to the north on Av Las
Heras between Roque Sáenz Peña and Juan Cineclub Municipal
B Justo (the area known locally as Abasto)
are the discos and nightclubs. Go for a walk Hugo del Carril CINEMA
along here and you’ll probably pick up free
passes to some, if not all, of them. (%0351-433-2463; www.cineclubmunicipal.org.
ar; Blvd San Juan 49; admission AR$2.50 Mon-
Wed, AR$4 Thu-Sun; hbox office 9am-late) For a
great night (or day) at the movies, pop into

296 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

JESS FERNANDEZ/GETTY IMAGES ©

297

CHRISTIAN KOBER/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

LUIS DAVILLA/COVER/GETTY IMAGES ©

1. Parque Nacional Sierra de 2. Iglesia Catedral (p287) 3. Museo Jesuítico Nacional de
las Quijadas (p315) Córdoba’s beautiful church is Jesús María (p304)
Otherworldly rock formations make crowned by a Romanesque dome. This Unesco-listed Jesuit estancia has
for great hiking opportunities. superbly landscaped grounds and an
informative museum.

298 88 Getting There & Away
this municipal film house, which screens
everything from art flicks to Latin American AIR
award winners and local films. Stop by for a Córdoba’s international airport, Ingeniero Am-
program. There’s also live music and theatri­ brosio Taravella (% 0351-475-0877), is about
cal performances here. 15km northwest of the city center.

7 Shopping Aerolíneas Argentinas/Austral (% 0351-410-
7600; Av Colón 520) has offices downtown and
Antique stores line Calle Belgrano in flies several times daily to Buenos Aires, Salta
Güemes, where there is also a feria arti- and Puerto Iguazú. Sol (% 0810-122-7765; www.
sanal (Artisans Market; cnr Rodriguez & Belgrano; sol.com.ar) flies to Rosario and Neuquén.
h5-10pm Sat & Sun), one of the country’s best.
You’ll find Argentine handicrafts at several BUS
stores downtown. Córdoba’s bus terminal (NETOC; % 0351-434-
1692; Blvd Perón 300) is about a 15-minute walk
Paseo Colonial ACCESSORIES from downtown.

(Belgrano 795; h10am-9pm Mon-Sat, 5-10pm Sun) In the new terminal (across the road, accessed
To find out what the city’s hip young design­ by tunnel), several bus companies offer services
ers have been working on, slip into this little to the same destinations as those offered by the
arcade, featuring a variety of small shops minibus terminal. Be aware that those leaving
selling clothes, homewares and jewelry. from the terminal stop everywhere, often adding
an hour to the journey time.
Talabartería Crespo SOUVENIRS
Several companies offer service to Chilean
(%0351-421-5447; Obispo Trejo 141; h8am-6pm destinations, including Santiago (AR$1273, 16
Mon-Sat) Leather goods made from carpin­ hours), although some involve changing buses
cho (a large rodent that makes a beautiful­ in Mendoza.
ly spotted leather) are the specialty here.
Sweaters, knives and mate (a bitter ritual Buses from Córdoba

tea) paraphernalia grace the shelves as well. DESTINATION COST (AR$) TIME (HR)

C ó rd o ba & th e C e ntr a l Si e rr as CS hÓóRor DdppOoiBbnaAg 88 Information Bahía Blanca 950 12

Cambios (money-exchange offices) and ATMs Bariloche 1697 22
are on Rivadavia north of the plaza; both are also
at the main bus terminal and airport. Buenos Aires 850 10
ACA (Automóvil Club Argentino; % 0351-421-
4713; cnr Av General Paz & Humberto Primo; Catamarca 445 5-6
h24hr) Argentina’s auto club; good source for
provincial road maps. Corrientes 940 12
Almundo (% 0351-422-9453; www.asatej.com;
Av Vélez Sársfield 361; h10am-10pm Mon-Sat, Esquel 1872 25
4-10pm Sun) On the 3rd floor of Patio Olmos
shopping center. Nonprofit student travel Jujuy 1226 12
agency with great staff. Open to all ages and
nonstudents. La Rioja 460 7
Cambio Barujel (cnr Rivadavia & 25 de Mayo;
h 9am-6pm Mon-Fri, 9am-2pm Sat) High Mendoza 725 10
commissions.
Montevideo (Uruguay) 1230 15
Casa Cabildo Tourist Information Office
(% 0351-434-1200; Independencia 30; h 8am- Neuquén 1238 17
8pm) The provincial and municipal tourist
boards occupy the same office in the historic Paraná 428 6
Casa Cabildo. There are also branches located
at the airport and the bus terminal. Puerto Iguazú 1726 22
Emergency Hospital (% 0351-427-6200; cnr
Catamarca & Blvd Guzmán) Puerto Madryn 1695 18-20
Maguitur (25 de Mayo 122; h 9am-6pm Mon-
Fri, 9am-2pm Sat) Charges 3% on traveler’s Resistencia 940 13
checks.
Main Post Office (Av General Paz 201; h 8am- Río Gallegos 3237 40
6pm Mon-Fri, 9am-1pm Sat)
Rosario 410 6

Salta 1181 12

San Juan 675 14

San Luis 515 6

San Martín de los 1516 21
Andes

Santiago del Estero 589 6

Tucumán 670 8