99
tends to feature electro-pop and Latin beats. rego, though it can get crowded. Another
The main levels are strewn with mezzanines good bet is weekends on El Caminito in La
and catwalks that allow views from above; Boca, and often there’s a couple dancing at
bring a hefty wallet as this is a top-end spot. the intersection of Florida and Lavalle.
3 Entertainment Centro Cultural Borges TANGO
Nonstop Buenos Aires has endless possibil- (%011-5555-5359; www.ccborges.org.ar; cnr
ities for entertainment. Dozens of venues Viamonte & San Martín; shows US$22-28) This
offer first-rate theatrical productions, in- excellent cultural center has many quality B u e n os Ai re s E ntertainment
dependent or contemporary movies, sultry offerings, including impressive, reasonably
tango shows, raging dance parties and excit- priced tango shows several times per week.
ing sports matches. Bien de Tango, on Friday and Saturday
nights at 8pm, is especially good and com-
Many newspapers publish entertainment parable to other tango shows that are triple
supplements on Friday; the Buenos Aires the cost. Check the cultural center’s website
Herald has a particularly handy one. Also or stop in beforehand to see what’s on tap,
check www.vuenosairez.com. and get an advance ticket.
Major entertainment venues often re- Café de los Angelitos TANGO
quire booking through Ticketek (%011-5237-
7200; www.ticketek.com.ar), which incurs a ser- (Map p58; %011-4952-2320; www.cafedelos
vice charge. At carteleras (discount-ticket angelitos.com; Av Rivadavia 2100; show from
offices), you can buy tickets at 20% to 50% US$100, show & dinner from US$140) Angelitos
discount for many events like tango shows, puts on one of the best shows in Buenos
theater performances, movies and concerts. Aires. It’s tango – but also a bit more. The
There are offices inside Galería Apolo performers dress in top-notch costumes and
(%011-4372-5058; www.cartelerabaires.com; Av use interesting props, like drapes and mov-
Corrientes 1382, Galería Apolo); right on pedes- ing walls. They also dance to modern tunes
trian Lavalle (%011-4322-1559; www.123info. such as those by local band Bajofondo, and
com.ar; Lavalle 742); and on Av Corrientes despite a nightclub feel at times – especially
(%011-6320-5319; www.veamasdigital.com.ar; Av due to the lighting – it’s all very tastefully
Corrientes 1660, Local 2). and creatively done.
Tango Shows Rojo Tango TANGO
Sensationalized tango shows aimed at tour-
ists are common and impressive (though (Map p58; %011-4952-4111; www.rojotango.
‘purists’ don’t consider them authentic). com; Faena Hotel & Universe, Martha Salotti 445;
These usually include various tango couples, show US$220, show & dinner from US$290) This
an orchestra and a couple of singers. They sexy performance is the tango show to top
last about 1½ hours and come with a dinner all others – especially with its hefty price tag.
option. Nearly all of them require reserva- Offering only 100 seats, the Faena’s cabaret
tions; some offer modest online discounts room is swathed in blood-red curtains and
and optional pickup from your hotel. gilded furniture. The show itself loosely fol-
lows the history of the tango, starting from
Modest shows are more intimate and cost its cabaret roots to the modern fusions of
far less, but you won’t get the theatrics, the Ástor Piazzolla.
costume changes or the overall visual punch
(which could be a plus depending on your Piazzolla Tango TANGO
point of view). For discount tickets to some
shows, check the carteleras. The website (Map p58; %011-4344-8201; www.piazzollatango.
www.tangotix.com can help you choose the com; Florida 165; show from US$90, show & din-
right show and sells discounted tickets. ner from US$135) This beautiful art-nouveau
theater, just off pedestrian Florida street,
Some milongas (tango academies) oc- used to be a red-light cabaret venue. The
casionally put on affordable tango shows; show here is based on the music of Ástor
check out Confitería Ideal (p105), La Piazzolla, a bandoneón (small type of accor
Viruta (p105) or Academia Nacional del dion) player who revolutionized tango music
Tango (Map p58; %4345-6967; www.anacdel by fusing in elements from jazz and classical
tango.org.ar; Av de Mayo 833). music. Be aware most tables are communal
and you’ll be facing sideways to watch the
For free (or rather, donation) tango, head show. Check its website for good discounts.
to San Telmo on a weekend afternoon; danc-
ers do their thing in the middle of Plaza Dor-
100 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
The Tango
A lone woman, dressed in slit skirt and high heels, sits at a small table. She glances
around, in search of the subtle signal. Her gaze suddenly locks onto a stranger’s eyes,
and there it is: the cabeceo. She nods and rises to meet him, and the new pair head
toward the dance floor.
History of Tango and betrayal by women. Sometimes
raunchy lyrics were added.
The tango hasn’t always been quite so
mysterious, but it does have a long and The perceived vulgarity of the dance
somewhat complex history. Though the was deeply frowned upon by the reigning
exact origins can’t be pinpointed, some elites, but it did manage to influence
believe the dance started in Buenos some brash young members of the upper
Aires in the 1880s. Legions of European classes, who took the novelty to Paris and
immigrants, mostly lower-class men, created a craze – a dance that became
arrived in the great village of Buenos an acceptable outlet for human desires,
Aires to seek their fortunes. Missing
their motherlands and the women they JUPITERIMAGES/GETTY IMAGES ©
left behind, they sought out bars, cafes
and bordellos to ease the loneliness.
Here the men cavorted with waitresses
and prostitutes, helping to evolve a
dance blending machismo, passion and
longing, with an almost fighting edge
to it.
Small musical ensembles were soon
brought in to accompany early tangos,
playing tunes influenced by pampas
milonga verse, Spanish and Italian
melodies (dance hall) and African
candombe drums. (The bandoneón,
a small accordion, was brought into
these sessions and has since become an
inextricable part of the tango orchestra.)
Here the tango song was also born. It
summarized the new urban experience
for the immigrants and was permeated
with nostalgia for a disappearing way
of life. Themes ranged from profound
feelings about changing neighborhoods to
the figure of the mother, male friendship
1–3. Tango dancers
101
JAVIER PIERINI/GETTY IMAGES © PICAVET/GETTY IMAGES ©
102
expressed on the dance floors of elegant to the end of a set (four songs) with any
cabarets. The trend spread around partner; if you are given a curt ‘gracias’
Europe and even to the US, and 1913 was after just one song, consider yourself
considered by some to be ‘the year of the excused.
tango.’ When the evolved dance returned
to Buenos Aires, now refined and famous, Your position in the area surrounding
the tango finally earned the respectability the dance floor can be critical. Ideally,
it deserved. The golden years of tango you should sit where you have easy
were just beginning. access to the floor and to other dancers’
line of sight. You may notice singles
Tango at a Milonga sitting in front, while couples sit further
Today back. Generally couples are considered
‘untouchable’ – for them to dance with
Buenos Aires is full of milongas (tango others, they either enter the room
dance events), from classic venues with separately, or the man may signal his
old-time atmosphere to hip warehouse intent by asking another woman to the
spaces where dancers wear jeans – in floor. Now ‘his’ woman becomes available
other words, there’s something for to others.
everyone.
The cabeceo – the quick tilt of the
At an established milonga, finding a head, eye contact and uplifted eyebrows –
good, comparable partner involves many can happen from way across the room.
levels of hidden codes, rules and signals The woman to whom the cabeceo is
that dancers must follow. In fact, some directed either nods yes and smiles, or
men will only proposition an unknown pretends not to have noticed. If she says
woman after the second song, so as not yes, the man gets up and escorts her to
to be stuck with a bad dancer. After all, the floor. If she pretends not to have
it’s considered polite to dance at least seen him, it’s considered a rejection.
When you’re at a milonga and don’t want
103
PABLO CARIDAD/GETTY IMAGES ©
JAVIER PIERINI/GETTY IMAGES ©
1. Tango class 2. Musician playing the bandoneón (p100)
to dance with anyone, don’t look around So what is the appeal of the tango?
too much – you could be breaking some Experienced dancers will say that the
hearts. rush from a blissful tango connection
with a stranger can lift you to
Don’t be surprised to see different exhilarating heights. But the dance can
milongas put on at a single venue, also become addictive – once you have
depending on the time or day. Each fallen for the passion and beauty of the
milonga can be run by a different tango’s movements, you can spend your
promoter, so each will have its own vibe, life trying to attain a physical perfection
style, music and table arrangement, as that can never be fully realized. The true
well as age levels and experiences. tanguero simply attempts to make the
journey as graceful as possible.
For good information on Buenos
Aires’ tango scene and how to navigate TOP MILONGAS
it, get a copy of Sally Blake’s practical ¨¨Salon Canning (p104)
guide Happy Tango: Sallycat’s Guide to ¨¨Club Gricel (p105)
Dancing in Buenos Aires, 2nd edition ¨¨Confitería Ideal (p105)
(www.sallycatway.com/happytango). You ¨¨La Viruta (p105)
can pick up free tango magazines at ¨¨La Catedral (p105)
milongas and tango shoe shops (of which
there are many in Buenos Aires).
Tango classes are often available in
the same venue as milongas, in the
hours before they start. But you can find
them everywhere from youth hostels to
cultural centers – some are even included
free when you book a fancy tango show.
Tourist-oriented classes are often taught
in English.
104
El Viejo Almacén TANGO on billiard tables (check out the basement).
Tango shows happen a few times per week
(Map p58; %011-4307-7388; www.viejoalmacen. in the 60-seat back theater – just make sure,
com; cnr Balcarce & Av Independencia; show from if you care, that the tango show highlights
US$90, show & dinner from US$140) One of dancers, as sometimes it’s only a tango mu-
Buenos Aires’ longest-running shows (since sic show. Tango classes offered Wednesdays
1969), this venue is a charming old building at 7pm.
from the 1800s. A good dinner is served at a
B u e n os Ai re s E ntertainment multistory restaurant in the main building,
then everyone heads across the street to the Todo Mundo TANGO
small theater with intimate stage. The show (Map p58; %011-4362-2354; Pasaje Anselmo
Aieta 1095) A pair of tango dancers enter-
starts with a quick movie about the tango tain diners continuously from 12:30pm to
show’s history, then moves on to the high-
ly athletic dancers with plenty of glitz. One 8pm during the day, working on tips, at this
casual restaurant on Plaza Dorrego. Basic
highlight is the exceptionally good folklore and mediocre-quality fare includes empa
segment.
nadas, pasta and parrilla. More complete
tango shows happen for Thursday night din-
La Ventana TANGO
(Map p58; %011-4334-1314; www.laventanaweb. ners. Expect flamenco, rock, salsa, folk and
com; Balcarce 431; show from US$115, show &
dinner from US$170) This long-running base- jazz on other nights; all shows start around
10:30pm.
ment venue is located in an old converted
building with rustic brick walls in San Tel- Milongas
mo. The tango show includes a folkloric seg- Milongas are dance events where people
ment with Andean musicians and a display strut their tango skills. The atmosphere at
of boleadores (gaucho hunting weapons). these events can be modern or historical,
There’s also a patriotic tribute to Evita, and casual or traditional. Most have tango DJs
the dinner offers a wide variety of tasty main that determine musical selections, but a few
dishes – unusual for tango shows. Gala Tan- utilize live orchestras.
go is a more upscale experience and hap-
pens upstairs. Free tango lesson included. Milongas either start in the afternoon
and run until 11pm, or start at around mid-
Esquina Carlos Gardel TANGO night and run until the early-morning light
(arrive late for the best action). Classes are
(Map p84; %011-4867-6363; www.esquinacarlos often offered beforehand.
gardel.com.ar; Carlos Gardel 3200; show from
US$96, show & dinner from US$140) One of the To get the inside scoop on BA’s tango
fanciest tango shows in town plays at this scene while taking a ‘tour’ of milongas,
impressive 430-seat theater, an old canti- check out www.narrativetangotours.com or
na right next to the lovely shopping mall www.tangotrips.com. For a current list of
Mercado de Abasto. This fine show high- milongas, see www.hoy-milonga.com.
lights passionate, top-notch musicians and La Glorieta MILONGA
performers in period costumes, though a (Barrancas de Belgrano; haround 7pm Fri-Sun)
For a unique outdoor experience, head to
modern segment involving a skin suit is the bandstand at the Barrancas de Belgra-
cutting-edge, athletic and memorable.
no, where the casual milonga La Glorieta
takes place. There’s often a free tango lesson
Café Tortoni TANGO
(Map p58; %011-4342-4328; www.cafetortoni. beforehand. Check the Facebook page for
com.ar; Av de Mayo 829) Nightly tango shows
(reserve ahead) take place at this historic yet details.
very touristy place. If you come earlier for Salon Canning MILONGA
the cafe, you may have to line up outside be- (Map p84; %15-5738-3850; www.parakultural.
com.ar; Av Scalabrini Ortiz 1331) Some of BA’s
forehand. Despite these downfalls, the Tor- finest dancers (no wallflowers here) grace
toni is BA’s most famous cafe and still offers
a beautiful atmosphere. this traditional venue with its great dance
floor. Well-known tango company Parakul-
tural stages good events on Monday, Tues-
Los 36 Billares TANGO
(Map p58; %011-4381-8909; www.los36billares. day and Friday, involving live music, tango
com.ar; Av de Mayo 1271; show US$10-12) Dating
from 1894, this is one of the city’s most his- DJs, singers and dancers. Expect big crowds
and plenty of tourists.
toric cafe-bars. As its name implies, it’s big
Club Gricel MILONGA 105
a class at 10:30pm before the milonga at
(%011-4957-7157; www.clubgriceltango.com.ar; La 11:30pm.
Rioja 1180) This old classic (far from the
center; take a taxi) often has big crowds, Live Music
especially on Thursday. It attracts an older, Smaller venues showcase mostly local groups;
well-dressed clientele – along with plenty of international stars tend to play at large
tourists. There’s a wonderful springy dance venues such as fútbol stadiums or Luna Park
floor and occasionally live orchestras. (Map p58; %011-5279-5279; www.lunapark.com. B u e n os Ai re s E ntertainment
ar; cnr Bouchard & Av Corrientes). Clásica y Mod-
Confitería Ideal MILONGA erna (p94) occasionally hosts jazz groups.
(Map p58; %011-4328-7750; www.facebook. With so many porteños boasting Span-
com/idealconfiteria; Suipacha 384, 1st fl) This in- ish ancestry, it’s not surprising that there
stitution (since 1912) is the mother of all his- are a few flamenco venues in town. Most
toric tango halls, with classes and milongas are located in Congreso’s Spanish neighbor-
offered daily (or nearly so). Live orchestras hood, near the intersection of Salta and Av
occasionally accompany dancers, and there de Mayo.
are dinner-tango shows on Friday and Satur-
day. The actual cafe section could use a face Música folklórica (folk music) also has
lift, as it’s a bit dim, stodgy and impersonal, its place in BA. There are several peñas
but it remains a classic. Featured in the film (folk-music clubs) in the city, but other
The Tango Lesson. venues occasionally host música folklórica –
keep your eyes peeled.
La Catedral MILONGA Centro Cultural Kirchner CONCERT VENUE
(Map p84; %15-5325-1630; www.lacatedralclub. (Map p58; %0 800-333-9300; www.cultural
com; Sarmiento 4006) If tango can be youthful,
trendy and hip, this is where you’ll find it. kirchner.gob.ar; Sarmiento 151) Located in Bue-
nos Aires’ gorgeous ex-main post office, this
The grungy warehouse space is very casual, gigantic building is home to dozens of event
with funky art on the walls, thrift-store
furniture and dim atmospheric lighting. halls – including a concert venue that holds
nearly 2000 and is home to Argentina’s na-
It’s more like a bohemian nightclub than tional symphony orchestra. Check the web-
anything else, and there’s no implied dress
code – you’ll see plenty of jeans. Great for site for happenings and get there early for
tickets. Most events are currently free, but
cheap alcohol; the best-known milongas oc- may cost a nominal charge in the future.
cur regularly on a Tuesday night.
Usina del Arte CONCERT VENUE
La Viruta MILONGA (Map p65; www.usinadelarte.org; Agustín Caffa
(Map p84; %011-4774-6357; www.lavirutatango. rena 1) This restored old electricity factory is
com; Armenia 1366, basement) Popular base-
ment venue. Good beginner tango classes a valiant attempt to breathe new life into an
edgy section of La Boca. It’s a gorgeous red-
are available before milongas – translating brick building complete with scenic clock
into many inexperienced dancers on the
floor earlier on – so if you’re an expert get tower, and its concert hall – boasting top-
notch acoustics – can seat 1200 spectators.
here late (after 3:30am). Music can run Offers free or inexpensive art exhibitions,
the gamut from tango to rock to cumbia
to salsa earlier in the evening, with more along with music, theater and dance per-
formances. Check the website for current
traditional tunes later. Tango shows also on happenings.
offer.
Teatro Colón CLASSICAL MUSIC
El Beso MILONGA (Map p58; %011-4378-7100; www.teatrocolon.
(Map p58; %011-4953-2794; Riobamba 416, org.ar; Cerrito 628) BA’s premier venue for the
1st fl) A traditional and popular place, El
Beso attracts some very good dancers – you arts, with ballet, opera and classical music.
should be very confident of your dancing La Trastienda ROCK, REGGAE
skills if you come here. Located upstairs, it (Map p58; %011-5254-9100; www.latrastienda.
com; Balcarce 460) This large, atmospheric
has good music and a cozy feel. theater in San Telmo welcomes over 700,
On Friday night, El Beso hosts the far less
traditional but still well-known La Marshall features a well-stocked bar, and showcases
national and international live-music acts
Milonga, a gay milonga, for all who want to almost nightly. Look for headers such as
try a change of roles in their tango. There’s
106 Teatro Nacional Cervantes THEATER
Charlie García, Divididos, José González,
Damien Rice and Conor Oberst. Check its (Map p58; %011-5222-4109; www.teatrocervan
website for the latest. tes.gov.ar; Libertad 815) This architecturally
gorgeous theater featuring three halls, a
Notorious JAZZ grand lobby and red-velvet chairs has good
(Map p58; %011-4813-6888; www.notorious. productions at affordable prices.
com.ar; Av Callao 966) This stylish, intimate
joint is one of Buenos Aires’ premier jazz
B u e n os Ai re s S h opping Teatro San Martín THEATER
venues. Up front you can buy CDs of vari- (Map p58; %011-4371-0111; www.complejo
teatral.gob.ar; Av Corrientes 1530) This major
ous music genres, while in the back the venue has several auditoriums (the largest
restaurant-cafe (overlooking a verdant gar-
den) hosts live shows nearly every night at seats over 1000 people) and showcases inter-
9:30pm. Log on to the website for schedules; national cinema, theater, dance and classical
most performances are jazz, but there’s also music, covering conventional and more unu-
Brazilian music. sual events. It also has art galleries and often
hosts impressive photography exhibitions.
Thelonious Bar JAZZ
(Map p84; %011-4829-1562; www.thelonious. Teatro Presidente Alvear THEATER
com.ar; Salguero 1884, 1st fl; h9pm-1am Thu, to (Map p58; %011-4371-0111; www.complejoteatral.
gob.ar; Av Corrientes 1659) Inaugurated in 1942
3am Fri & Sat) Upstairs in an old mansion and named after an Argentine president
lies this dimly lit jazz bar, with high brick
ceilings and a good sound system. Come whose wife sang opera, this theater holds
early to snag a seat (or reserve one ahead over 850 and shows many musical pro-
of time) and partake in the typically Ar- ductions, including ballet. Occasional free
gentine menu and good range of cocktails. shows are on offer.
Thelonious is known for its classic and
contemporary Argentine jazz lineups, Cinemas
though international musicians sometimes BA is full of cinemas, both historical neon
entertain. classics and slick modern multiplexes. The
traditional cinema districts are along ped
Ávila Bar FLAMENCO estrian Lavalle (west of Florida) and on Av
Corrientes, but newer cineplexes are spread
(Map p58; %011-4383-6974; Av de Mayo 1384; throughout the city; most large shopping
hThu-Sat) Offering flamenco for many years malls have one.
now is this cozy little Spanish restaurant
with good traditional food. Main dishes (or Check out the Buenos Aires Herald for
tapas) can include rabbit, paella and sea- original titles of English-language films. Ex-
food stews. Flamenco shows start around cept for kids’ films, most movies are in their
10:30pm and reservations are a must on original language (with Spanish subtitles).
weekends.
7 Shopping
Los Cardones FOLK MUSIC
Shopping is practically a sport for many
(Map p84; %011-4777-1112; www.cardones.com. Buenos Aires’ citizens who despite steeply
ar; Borges 2180; hfrom 9pm Wed-Sat) Come rising inflation, continue to shop as if there’s
to this friendly, low-key peña for mellow no tomorrow. As the saying goes, ‘An Argen-
guitar shows, audience-participatory jam tine will make one peso and spend two.’
sessions (and possible dancing), hearty re-
gional cuisine from northern Argentina and In the Microcentro, Florida is a multi-
free-flowing red wine. Shows start at 10pm purpose pedestrian strip that buzzes with
on weekdays and 11pm weekends. Check out shoppers, while Av Santa Fe is a bit less
the website for details on the current lineup pedestrian-friendly but equally prominent
and reserve ahead for a good table. as the city’s main shopping artery. San
Telmo is ground zero for antiques, and Av
Theater Pueyrredón near Once train station is the
Av Corrientes, between Avs 9 de Julio and place for cheap (and lower-quality) clothing.
Callao, has traditionally been the capital’s Jewelry shops are found on Libertad south
center for theater, but there are now dozens of Av Corrientes. Leather jackets and bags
of venues throughout the city. are cheapest on Calle Murillo (500–600
block), in Villa Crespo.
107
For avant garde fashions, Palermo Viejo is bly the best English-language bookstore in B u e n os Ai re s S h opping
the place to be. This neighborhood, split by BA. Thousands of new and used literature
railroad tracks into Palermo Soho and Paler- and nonfiction books line the shelves here,
mo Hollywood, has the most concentrated and there’s a selection of Latin American
number of clothing boutiques between Pla- classics translated into English. Bring your
za Serrano and Plaza Palermo Viejo. You’ll quality books to trade; literary workshops
find housewares and plenty of knick-knack offered too.
shops here too. Prices are high.
Cualquier Verdura CLOTHING, HOMEWARES
As in other Western countries, bargaining
is not acceptable in most stores. Expensive (Map p58; %011-4300-2474; Humberto Primo
items such as jewelry and leather jackets can 517; hnoon-8pm Thu-Sun) Located in a lovely,
be exceptions, especially if you buy several. refurbished old house, this fun store sells
At street markets you can try negotiating for eclectic items from vintage clothing to old
better prices – just keep in mind you may books to recycled floppy-disc lamps to con-
be talking to the artists themselves, who temporary housewares and novelty toys.
generally don’t make much money. San Tel- Wander through the outdoor patio and note
mo’s antiques fair, Feria de San Telmo, is an the stained-glass windows on the wall and
exception: prices here are often inflated for mate-drinking Buddha above the fountain.
tourists.
Materia Urbana ART, HOMEWARES
7 Microcentro & Congreso (Map p58; %011-4361-5265; www.materiaurbana.
com; Defensa 702; h11am-7pm Wed-Fri, 2-7pm Sat,
10:30am-7pm Sun) This innovative design shop
Arte y Esperanza CRAFTS shows the work of over 100 local artists; cool
(Map p58; %011-4343-1455; www.arteyesperanza. finds include leather animal organizers, ret-
com.ar; Balcarce 234; h9am-6:30pm Mon-Fri)
This store sells fair-trade, handmade prod- ro tote bags, plastic mate gourds and jewelry
made from metal, wood and leather.
ucts that include many from Argentina’s in-
digenous craftspeople. Shop for silver jewel
ry, pottery, ceramics, textiles, mate gourds, Punto Sur CLOTHING
baskets, woven bags, wood utensils and ani- (Map p58; %011-4300-9320; www.feriapunto
sur.com.ar; Defensa 1135; h11:30am-7:30pm)
mal masks. There’s another branch in Retiro This is a great clothing store highlighting
(Map p58; %011-4393-3270; www.arteyesperanza.
com.ar; Suipacha 892). the works of nearly 70 Argentine designers.
Creativity is rampant and it’s a fun walk-
through for one-of-a-kind funky threads, in-
Zival’s MUSIC cluding interesting knitwear, colorful skirts,
(Map p58; www.zivals.com; Av Callao 395; printed T-shirts, jewelry and accessories,
h9:30am-9:30pm Mon-Sat) This is one of the
better music stores in town, especially when cool handbags and even kids’ stuff.
it comes to tango, folk, jazz and classical Moebius CLOTHING
music. Listening stations are a big plus, and
many books are also for sale. (Map p65; %011-4361-2893; Defensa 1356;
h11am-8pm Tue-Sun) This funky little shop’s
racks are crowded with owner-designer Lil-
Wildlife OUTDOOR EQUIPMENT liana Zauberman’s kaleidoscopic products:
(Map p58; %011-4381-1040; Hipólito Yrigoyen 1970s-style jersey dresses, whimsical ruffled
1133; h10am-8pm Mon-Fri, to 1pm Sat) If you’re
looking to buy all manner of outdoor and bikinis, skirts printed with koi fish and frog
camping equipment, this is the place to do it. patterns, cherry-red trench coats and hand-
Crampons, knives, tents, backpacks, climb- bags made from recycled materials. Around
ing gear, foul-weather clothing, skateboards, 60 designers sell their work here, so there’s
military gear and even the occasional mule always something different, fun and new to
saddle can be found at this somewhat off- keep an eye out for.
beat and musty shop.
Gil Antiguedades ANTIQUES
7 San Telmo (Map p58; %15-6295-1079 annex; Humberto
Primo 412; h11am-1pm & 3-7pm Tue-Sun) Going
on 45 years, this cluttered antique shop
Walrus Books BOOKS sells everything you can imagine – china tea
(Map p58; %011-4300-7135; Estados Unidos sets, leather hatboxes, old toys, mirrors, vin-
617; hnoon-8pm Tue-Sun) Run by an Ameri-
can photographer, this tiny shop is proba- tage suitcases, lace tablecloths and crystal
108 7 Palermo
glassware. Its annex (by appointment only)
has wedding dresses and accessories.
Rapsodia CLOTHING
7 Recoleta & Retiro (Map p84; %011-4831-6333; www.rapsodia.
com; Honduras 4872; h10am-9pm) With fab-
rics from linen to leather and details like
El Ateneo BOOKS
B u e n os Ai re s S h opping (Map p70; Av Santa Fe 1860; h9am-10pm Mon- fringe and sequins, this large and popular
Thu, to midnight Fri & Sat, noon-10pm Sun) Buenos boutique is a must for fashion mavens. Old
Aires’ landmark bookseller stocks a limited and new are blended into creative, colorful
number of books in English, including Lone- styles with exotic and bohemian accents. Lo-
ly Planet guides. There are several branch- cals covet its dresses and jeans; over a dozen
es within the city, but this one – the Gran branches in the city.
Splendid – is in a gorgeous old renovated
cinema. Bolivia CLOTHING
(Map p84; %011-4832-6284; Gurruchaga 1581;
h10:30am-8:30pm Mon-Sat, 3-8:30pm Sun)
Autoría ART, ACCESSORIES
(Map p70; %011-5252-2474; www.autori- There’s almost nothing here that your young,
absas.com.ar; Suipacha 1025; h9:30am-8pm hip and possibly gay brother wouldn’t love,
Mon-Fri, 10am-6pm Sat) This cool designer’s from the stylish plaid shirts to the skin-tight
showcase – stocked with edgy art books, jeans to the military-styled jackets. Metro-
sculptural fashions, whimsical leather desk sexual to the hilt, and paradise for the man
sculptures and unique jewelry of all mate- who isn’t afraid of patterns, plaid or pastels.
rials (silk cocoons!) – strives to promote Ar- Has a second Palermo (Map p84; %011-
gentine designers. Especially interesting are 4832-6409; Nicaragua 4908; h11:30am-8:30pm
Mon-Sat) branch.
the recycled materials – check out the bags
made of tyvek, inner tubes, firehoses or even
old sails. Products are of high quality and Calma Chicha HOMEWARES
prices are accessible. (Map p84; %011-4831-1818; www.calmachicha.
com; Honduras 4909; h10am-8pm ) Calma Chi-
cha specializes in creative housewares and
BUENOS AIRES STREET MARKETS
Some of BA’s best crafts and souvenirs are sold at its many street markets, often by
the artists themselves. You may have to sort through some tacky kitsch, but you’ll also
find creative and original art. Often there is also ‘free’ (ie donation) entertainment from
casual performers.
Feria de San Telmo (Map p58; Defensa; h10am-6pm Sun; g10, 22, 29, 45, 86) On Sun-
days, San Telmo’s main drag is closed to traffic and the street is a sea of both locals and
tourists browsing craft stalls, waiting at vendors’ carts for freshly squeezed orange juice,
poking through the antique glass ornaments on display on Plaza Dorrego, and listening
to street performances by myriad music groups. Runs from Av San Juan to Plaza de
Mayo.
Feria Artesanal (Map p70; Plaza Intendente Alvear; h10am-7pm) Recoleta’s hugely
popular fair has dozens of booths and a range of creative, homemade goods. Hippies,
mimes and tourists mingle. It’s at its biggest on weekends; located just outside the Ce-
menterio de la Recoleta.
Feria Plaza Serrano (Map p84; Plaza Serrano; h10am-8pm Fri-Sun) Costume jewelry,
hand-knit tops, mate gourds, leather accessories and a whole lot of junk fill the crafts
booths at this small but lively fair on fashionable Plaza Serrano in Palermo.
Feria de Mataderos (%011-4342-9629; www.feriademataderos.com.ar; cnr Avs Lisandro de
la Torre & de los Corrales; h11am-8pm Sun Apr–mid-Dec, 6pm-midnight Sat late Jan–mid-Mar)
The unique Feria de Mataderos is far off in the working-class barrio of Mataderos, but it’s
worth hiking out here for the shows of horsemanship, folk dancing and cheap authentic
treats. From downtown, take bus 126, 155 or 180 (one hour). Confirm hours beforehand;
it closes for a couple weeks ‘between’ seasons.
109
accessories that are locally produced from PESKY INFLATION
leather, faux leather, sheepskin, cowhide,
and brightly hued fabric. Look for butter- Be warned: while accurate at the time of
fly chairs, throw rugs, leather place mats, research, prices quoted here are likely
bright pillows and cow-skin bags. to rise rapidly. The unofficial inflation
rate is over 30% (officially it’s 15%).
Patio del Liceo MALL
Because of Argentina’s high inflation,
(Map p84; %011-4822-9433; Av Santa Fe 2729) hotels and certain other businesses B u e n os Ai re s O rientation
Eclectic little shopping mall with funky and sometimes quote in US dollars. For
casual vibe. In the past few years, young accommodations we’ve published
struggling artists have taken over and cre prices in dollars; for most other listings
ated an artistic hub here, filling it with they are in pesos. Keep an attentive eye
various small boutiques, exhibition spaces for AR$ and US$ as you look through
and workshops. You’ll find a couple of book- the listings.
stores, a record store and some design stores.
Hours vary depending on individual stores.
Hermanos Estebecorena CLOTHING Further north is Palermo, an upper-middle-
class suburb with spacious parks, plenty of
(Map p84; %011-4772-2145; www.hermanos shopping and heaps of restaurants; it’s sub
estebecorenashop.com; El Salvador 5960; h11am- divided into the trendy neighborhoods of Paler-
8pm Mon-Sat) The Estebecorena brothers mo Soho, Palermo Hollywood and Las Cañitas,
apply their highly creative skills toward among others. And edging Palermo’s borders
smartly designed tops, jackets that fold into are Belgrano and Once, both home to concen-
bags, polo-collar work shirts and even seam- trations of ethnic Chinese, Korean, Peruvian and
less underwear. The focus is on original, Jewish people.
highly stylish, very functional men’s clothing
that makes the artsy types swoon. Selection BA’s Ezeiza airport is about 35km south of the
is limited, but what’s there really counts. city center.
Lo de Joaquín Alberdi FOOD, WINE 88 Information
(Map p84; %011-4832-5329; www.lodejoaquin CONCIERGE SERVICES
alberdi.com; Jorge Luis Borges 1772; h11am- BA Cultural Concierge (%15-3876-5937;
9:30pm Mon-Sat, noon-9:30pm Sun) Nationally www.baculturalconcierge.com) Madi Lang’s
produced wines for every taste and budget concierge service helps you plan itineraries,
line the racks and cellar of this attractive arrange airport transportation, run errands, get
wine shop. Tastings happen Thursday and a cell phone, reserve theater tickets, scout out
Friday at 7:30pm (double-check ahead of a potential apartment and do a thousand other
time) and include four wines and some things that’ll help your trip to run smoothly.
cheeses.
EMERGENCY
88 Orientation Ambulance (%107)
Police (% 911, 101)
BA is a huge metropolis, but most places of Tourist Police (Comisaría del Turista; % 011-
interest are in just a few easily accessible 4346-5748, 0800-999-5000; Av Corrientes
neighborhoods. 436; h24hr) Provides interpreters for travel
insurance reports.
The heart of the city is Microcentro; it’s small
enough to walk around fairly easily. Just east INTERNET ACCESS & TELEPHONE
is Puerto Madero, with scenic docklands and Internet cafes and locutorios (telephone offices)
a large ecological park. Further south is San with internet access are relatively common in
Telmo, known for its lovely colonial architecture the center. Rates are cheap and connections are
and Sunday fair. South of here is La Boca, famed fast. Most cafes and restaurants have free wi-fi.
for colorful houses clad in corrugated metal.
If you’re in Buenos Aires for a long while, you
West of the Microcentro sits Congreso, BA’s can rent a desk, a cubicle, an office or a meeting
seat of politics, boasting some stately buildings. room via Areatres (% 011-5353-0333; www.area
To the north is upscale Retiro, home to the city’s tresworkplace.com; Malabia 1720; h 8:30am-
main train station and bus terminal. And just 8pm Mon-Fri). There are fax and copy services,
northwest lie Recoleta and Barrio Norte, boast- complete internet connections, networking
ing some of BA’s most expensive real estate social events – even a Zen-like patio. Also has a
and dotted with art museums, fancy shops and second Palermo (% 011-5258-7600; Humboldt
luxurious mansions. 2036) branch.
B u e n os Ai re s I nformation110
TRAVELING SAFELY IN BUENOS AIRES
While crime does exist in BA (as it does in any big city) and you’ll notice that porteños
are very security conscious, in general BA is fairly safe. In many places you can com-
fortably walk around at all hours of the night, even as a lone woman, as people gener-
ally stay out very late. However, be careful at night in some neighborhoods, including
Constitución (around the train station), the eastern border of San Telmo, and La Boca
(outside tourist streets).
Crime against tourists is almost always of the petty sort, such as pickpocketing in
crowded markets, the Subte or buses, or bag snatches when you’re not looking – things
smart travelers can guard themselves against. Be wary of the old ‘mustard trick’ – some-
one pointing out ‘bird droppings’ or whatever on your clothing, placed there by an ac-
complice, and offering to clean it up (while your valuables go off with the accomplice).
Other things to watch out for are the occasional fake bill. Most people get them in
dark environments like taxis or nightclubs.
Minor nuisances include the lack of respect shown by vehicles toward pedestrians, lax
pollution controls and high noise levels.
If you’ve been robbed in some way, contact the tourist police (p109) to file a claim;
they provide interpreters.
MEDIA checked; boxes are also sold here. Look for the
BA’s most popular newspapers are the en- building with the yellow facade.
tertaining, tabloid-like Clarín and the more DHL Internacional (Map p58; % 0810-122-
moderate and upper-class La Nación. Página 3345; www.dhl.com.ar; Av Córdoba 783) Many
12 provides a leftist perspective, while Ámbito branches around town.
Financiero is the voice of the business sector. For Federal Express (Map p58; % 0810-333-
news in English there’s the Buenos Aires Herald. 3339; www.fedex.com; Maipú 753, Microcentro)
OCA (Map p58; % 4311-5305; www.oca.
MEDICAL SERVICES com.ar; Viamonte 526, Microcentro) For
Dental Argentina (% 011-4828-0821; www. domestic packages.
dental-argentina.com.ar; Laprida 1621, 2B) Den-
tal services with English-speaking professionals. TOURIST INFORMATION
Hospital Británico (% 4309-6400; www. There are several small government tourist
hospitalbritanico.org.ar; Perdriel 74) offices or kiosks in BA; hours vary throughout
Hospital Italiano (% 4959-0200; www.hospital the year. The official tourism site of Buenos Aires
italiano.org.ar; Juan D Perón 4190) is www.bue.gob.ar and the government site is
www.buenosaires.gob.ar.
MONEY Diagonal Roque Saénz Peña Tourist Kiosk
Banks and cambios (official money-exchange of- (Map p58; cnr Florida & Diagonal Roque
fices) are common in the city center; banks have Saénz Peña)
longer lines and more limited opening hours Plaza San Martín Tourist Kiosk (Map p70;
but may offer better rates. Cuevas (clandestine cnr Florida & Marcelo T de Alvear, Retiro)
money exchange offices) can come and go – ask Puerto Madero Tourist Office (Map p58;
around for one nearby. You’re on your own if you Dique 4)
use the ubiquitous arbolitos (ie unofficial money Recoleta Tourist Kiosk (Map p70; Av
changers) on Florida, offering ‘cambio, cambio, Quintana 596)
cambio’ to passing pedestrians. Just remember Ministerio de Turismo (Map p70; % 011-
there are quite a few fake bills floating about. 4312-2232; www.turismo.gov.ar; Av Santa Fe
American Express (% 011-4310-3000; Are- 883, Retiro; h 9am-7pm Mon-Fri) Mostly info
nales 707) in Retiro changes traveler’s checks on Argentina but helps with BA.
10am to 4pm Monday to Friday.
TRAVEL AGENCIES
POST Anda Responsible Travel (%011-3221-0833;
The post office has branches all over the city. www.andatravel.com.ar; Billinghurst 1193, 3B)
Correo Internacional (Map p70; % 011- Most notable for its La Boca tour, which intro-
4891-9191; www.correoargentino.com.ar; Av duces travelers to local organizations working
Antártida Argentina; h 9am-3:30pm Mon-Fri) toward improving the lives of its citizens. Also
For international parcels weighing 2kg to 20kg. does tours around Argentina that benefit local
Bring an open box or parcel as contents will be citizens, which are sometimes indigenous groups.
111
Say Hueque (% 011-5258-8740; www.say BOAT B u e n os Ai re s G etting T h ere & Away
hueque.com; Thames 2062, Palermo) This BA has a regular ferry service to and from Co-
independent travel agency specializes in cus- lonia and Montevideo, both in Uruguay. Ferries
tomized adventure trips all around Argentina, leave from the Buquebus (Map p70; % 011-
and will also make air, bus and hotel reserva- 4316-6500; www.buquebus.com; cnr Avs Antár-
tions. It offers various BA tours as well. Also tida Argentina & Córdoba) terminal in Puerto
has a branch in San Telmo (% 011-4307-2614; Madero. There are many more launches in the
Chile 557). warmer months of September to April.
Tangol (% 011-4363-6000; www.tangol.com;
Florida 971, Suite 31) Do-all agency that of- BUS
fers city tours, tango shows, guides to fútbol BA’s modern Retiro bus terminal (Map p70;
games, hotel reservations, Spanish classes, www.tebasa.com.ar; Av Antártida Argentina) is
air tickets and country-wide packages. Also 400m long, three floors high and has bays for 75
offers unusual activities including helicopter buses. The bottom floor is for cargo shipments
tours and skydiving. Has another branch in San and luggage storage, the top for purchasing
Telmo (Defensa 831). tickets and the middle for everything else. The
information booth (% 011-4310-0700; h24hr)
USEFUL WEBSITES will help you find the right long-distance bus (or
Argentina Independent (www.argentina check the terminal’s website); it’s located near
independent.com) For current news. the escalators at the southern end of the termi-
Bubble (www.bubblear.com) For fun news. nal. Other services include a tourist office (Map
LandingPadBA (www.landingpadba.com) For p70; h7:30am-2:30pm Mon-Fri, to 4:30pm
quirky articles. Sat & Sun) on the same level as bus bay 36,
Pick Up the Fork (www.pickupthefork.com) For ATMs, telephone offices (some with internet),
foodie entertainment. cafes and many small stores.
88 Getting There & Away You can buy a ticket to practically anywhere
in Argentina and departures are fairly frequent
AIR to the most popular destinations. Prices vary
Buenos Aires is Argentina’s international gate- widely according to bus company, class, season
way and easily accessible from North America, and inflation. Reservations are not necessary
Europe and Australasia, as well as other capital except during peak seasons (January, February
cities in South America. and July). To get a current price on a destination,
check www.omnilineas.com (certain long-
Almost all international flights arrive at BA’s distance destinations require connections).
Ezeiza airport, about 35km south of the center.
This modern airport has good services such as Retiro bus terminal is connected to the local bus
ATMs, restaurants and duty-free shops, an inter- system, but it’s a giant snarl and hard to figure
net cafe, a pharmacy, a 24-hour post office and out. There’s a nearby Subte station and Retiro
free but slow wi-fi. train station. Street taxis are numerous, though
remises (call taxis) are generally more secure –
Most domestic flights use Aeroparque Jorge there are several remise booths near the bus
Newbery airport, a short distance north of bays; the one near bus bay 54 is open 24 hours.
downtown BA.
TRAIN
Flight information for both airports, in English Privately run trains connect Buenos Aires’
and Spanish, is available at 5480-6111 or www. center to its suburbs and nearby provinces. The
aa2000.com.ar. three main central stations are served by Subte.
TRAINS FROM BUENOS AIRES
DESTINATION(S) STATION CONTACT
Retiro Línea Mitre (%0800-222-8736; www.sofse.gob.ar)
Tigre, Rosario, Córdoba
& Tucumán Constitución Línea Roca (%0800-222-8736; www.sofse.gob.ar)
Southern suburbs Constitución Ferrobaires (%0810-666-8736; www.ferrobaires.gba.
& La Plata gov.ar)
Once Línea Sarmiento (%0800-222-8736; www.sofse.gob.ar)
Bahía Blanca, Tandil
& Mar del Plata
Southwestern suburbs
& Luján
B u e n os Ai re s G etting A round112 Another shuttle service, directed at independ-
ent travelers, is Hostel Shuttle (%011-4511-8723;
88 Getting Around www.hostelshuttle.com.ar). Check the website
for prices, schedules and drop-off destinations
TO & FROM AIRPORTS (only at certain hostels), and try to book ahead.
Chauffeur-Driven Car You can also try www.minibusezeiza.com.ar.
For a special treat, reserve a luxury car from
Silver Star Transport (% in Argentina 15-6826- Shuttles between Ezeiza and Aeroparque Jorge
8876, in the USA 214-502-1605; www.silver- Newbery airport (the domestic airport) cost
starcar.com); you’ll be driven by native English AR$155; from Aeroparque to the center AR$60.
speakers from Ezeiza airport to the destination
of your choice (US$160). There are car-rental Taxi
booths at Ezeiza, but we do not recommend If taking a taxi, avoid MTL’s overpriced taxi ser-
renting a car for your stay in Buenos Aires. vice. Instead, go past the transport ‘lobby’ area
outside customs, past the taxi drivers holding
Bus signs, and you’ll see the freestanding city taxi
If you’re really on a penny-pinching budget, take stand with a blue sign saying Taxi Ezeiza (%011-
public bus 8 from Ezeiza airport, which costs 5480-0066; www.taxiezeiza.com.ar; h24hr).
AR$8, runs every 20 to 30 minutes and can take At the time of writing it charged AR$450 to the
up to two hours to reach the Plaza de Mayo area. center (for a discount reserve via their website).
Catch it outside Terminal B, or outside Terminal A Note that if you pre-arrange your taxi back to
(turn to the right and walk a couple minutes to the Ezeiza after your stay in BA, the rate can be
bus stop across from the Petrobras gas station). about 20% cheaper.
You’ll need an inexpensive SUBE card to pay for
the bus; buy one at the kiosko across from check- Taxis between Aeroparque and the city center
in stand 25 (the sign says ‘open 25 hours!’). cost around AR$130.
A new service, Arbus (www.arbus.com. BICYCLE
ar), offers inexpensive bus transport between Vehicular traffic in BA is dangerous and hardly
Aerop arque Jorge Newbery and Ezeiza (only if respectful toward bicycles, but things are im-
you’re an Aerolineas Argentinas passenger) and proving, with an expanding bike-lane system and
between Aeroparque and six locations around a free bike-share program. The Ecobici (www.
BA; you’ll need a SUBE card. Check their website buenosaires.gob.ar/ecobici) bike-share program
for details. is mostly for residents but tourists can rent as
well – have copies of your passport’s main page
Shuttle and entry-stamp page. Rentals are for an hour
If you’re alone, the best way to and from Ezeiza on weekdays and two hours on weekends, with
airport is taking a shuttle with a transfer renewals possible.
company such as Manuel Tienda León (MTL;
% 011-4315-5115; www.tiendaleon.com; Av Some areas call out for two-wheeled explora-
Eduardo Madero 1299, Ezeiza Airport). You’ll see tion, such as Palermo’s parks and the Reserva
its stand immediately as you exit customs, in the Ecológica Costanera Sur. On weekends and
transport ‘lobby’ area. Frequent shuttles cost some weekdays you can rent bikes at these
AR$145 per person to the city center, run all day places, or at private tours companies.
and night, and take 40 to 60 minutes, depending
on traffic. They’ll deposit you at their MTL office BUS
(from where you can take a taxi). To understand BA’s huge, complex bus system
buy a Guia T (bus guide); they’re sold at any
SUBE CARD newsstand, but try to find the handy pocket
version or check www.omnilineas.com and click
The SUBE Card (www.sube.gob.ar) is on ‘City buses.’ Most routes run 24 hours.
a handy and inexpensive rechargeable
card that you use for the Subte, local Colectivos (local buses) take either coins or
buses and trains. It saves you money a magnetic bus card called SUBE, but won’t
and means you don’t have to keep a take bills. Bus ticket machines on board give
stash of coins on hand. Get it at some small change from coins. Offer your seat to the
kiosks, lottery offices, post offices or elderly, pregnant women and women with young
any other business that displays the children.
SUBE logo. Ezeiza airport and Retiro bus
terminal also have Sube kiosks where CAR
you can buy this card. Charging the card Most local drivers are reckless, aggressive and
itself is easy, and can be done at many even willfully dangerous. They ignore speed
kiosks or Subte stations. limits, signs, lines and signals, and will tailgate.
Buses are a nightmare to reckon with, potholes
are everywhere, and congestion and parking
are a pain.
113
Public transportation is great and taxis are At night the driver will turn on the light (luz) so B u e n os Ai re s T I G R E & T H E D E LTA
cheap and plentiful, but if you still insist on rent- you can carefully check your change (look for a
ing a car, you’ll need to be at least 21 years of age watermark on bills). They’ll do the same with your
and have a valid driver’s license, credit card and bills. And make sure you get the right change.
passport; an international driver’s license isn’t
necessary. Pretend to have an idea of where you’re going;
a few taxis offer the ‘scenic’ route (though also
In Retiro, try Avis (%011-4326-5542; www. be aware there are many one-way streets in BA).
avis.com.ar; Cerrito 1535); Hertz (%011-4816- A good way to do this is to give the taxi driver an
0899; www.hertz.com.ar; Paraguay 1138), intersection rather than a specific address. Also,
which is also home to Thrifty Car Rental; or if you are obviously a tourist going to or from
local, friendly and cheap New Way (%011-4515- a touristy spot, don’t ask how much the fare is
0331; www.new-wayrentacar.com; Marcelo T de beforehand; this makes it tempting to quote a
Alvear 773). higher price rather than using the meter.
SUBTE (SUBWAY) Try to snag an ‘official’ taxi, usually marked by
BA’s Subte (www.buenosaires.gob.ar/subte) is a roof light and license number printed on the
the quickest way to get around the city, though doors. Official drivers must display their license
it can get mighty hot and crowded during rush on the back of their seat or dashboard; write down
hour and it’s a haven for pickpockets. It consists the details in case of problems or forgotten items.
of Líneas (Lines) A, B, C, D, E and H. Four parallel
lines run from downtown to the capital’s west- You can also call a remise (call taxi) instead
ern and northern outskirts, while Línea C runs of hailing street cabs. Remises look like regular
north–south and connects the two major train cars and don’t have meters. They cost a bit more
stations of Retiro and Constitución. Línea H runs than street taxis but are more secure, since an
from Once south to Av Caseros, with plans to established company sends them out. Any hotel
expand it. or restaurant will call a remise for you.
One ride on the Subte costs AR$4.50. To Tigre & the Delta
avoid queues buy several rides at once or get a
SUBE card (p112). The city of Tigre (35km north of BA) and
the surrounding delta region is a popu-
Trains operate from 5am to around 10:30pm lar weekend getaway for weary porteños.
Monday to Saturday and 8am to around 10pm Latte-colored waters – rich with iron from
Sunday and holidays. Service is frequent on the jungle streams flowing from inland
weekdays; on weekends you’ll wait longer. At South America – offer hidden gems in this
some stations platforms are on opposite sides, marshy region. Glimpse how locals live
so be sure of your direction before passing along peaceful canals, with boats as their
through the turnstiles. only transportation. All along the shorelines
are signs of water-related activity, from kay-
TAXI & REMISE aking to canoeing to sculling.
Buenos Aires’ numerous and relatively inex-
pensive taxis are conspicuous by their black- 1 Sights
and-yellow paint jobs. They click every 200m
(or every minute of waiting time) and cost 20% Museo de Arte Tigre MUSEUM
more after 10pm. Make sure that the meter’s set
to the current price when you start your ride. (%4512-4528; www.mat.gov.ar; Paseo Victorica
Drivers do not expect a big tip, but it’s custom- 972; admission AR$30; h9am-7pm Wed-Fri, noon-
ary to let them keep small change. Taxis looking 7pm Sat & Sun) Tigre’s fanciest museum is lo-
for passengers will have a red light lit on the cated in a 1912 social club. This beautiful art
upper right corner of their windshield. museum showcases famous Argentine art-
ists from the 19th and 20th centuries. The
Most cab drivers are honest workers making building itself is worth a visit.
a living, but there are a few bad apples. Try not
to give them a 100 peso note for a small fare; Puerto de Frutos MARKET
sometimes they’re short on change, but there
have been cases where the driver quickly and (Sarmiento 160; h10am-6pm) At this popular
deftly replaces a larger bill with a smaller (or market, vendors sell homewares, furniture,
fake) one. One solution is to state how much you wicker baskets, souvenirs and knick-knacks;
are giving them and ask if they have change for it there are restaurants too. Weekends are
(‘¿Tiene usted cambio de un cien?’ – ‘Do you have busiest.
any change for a hundred?’).
Museo Naval MUSEUM
Be wary of receiving counterfeit bills. If you’re
suspicious this might happen, note aloud the (Naval Museum; %4749-0608; Paseo Victorica
last three numbers/letters on a bill as you’re 602; admission AR$20; h8:30am-5:30pm Mon-F ri,
giving it to him.
114
10:30am-6:30pm Sat & Sun) This worthwhile Casona La Ruchi GUESTHOUSE $
museum traces the history of the Argentine (%4749-2499; www.casonalaruchi.com.ar; Lavalle
navy with an eclectic mix of historical pho- 557; r without bathroom US$60; iWs) This
tos, model boats and airplanes, artillery dis- family-run guesthouse is in a beautiful old
plays and pickled sea critters. 1893 mansion. Most of the four romantic
bedrooms have balconies; all have shared
Museo del Mate MUSEUM bathrooms with original tiled floors. There’s
B u e n os Ai re s T I G R E & T H E D E LTA (%4506-9594; www.elmuseodelmate.com; Lavalle a pool and large garden out back.
289; admission AR$30; h11am-6pm Wed-Sun)
For something special, visit this museum
Hotel Villa Victoria GUESTHOUSE $$
(%4731-2281; www.hotelvillavictoria.com; Liniers
with over 2000 items dedicated to the na- 566; r Sun-Fri from US$100, Sat from US$140;
tional drink. There’s a small outdoor mate
‘bar’ as well. aiWs) Run by an Argentine-Swedish
family, this boutique hotel is more like a fan-
T Tours cy guesthouse. Only six simple yet elegant
rooms are available, and there’s a pool in the
Frequent, reasonably priced commuter large grassy garden. Swedish, French and
launches depart from Estación Fluvial (be- English are spoken.
hind the tourist office) for various destina-
tions in the delta. A popular destination is Maria Luján ARGENTINE $$
the Tres Bocas neighborhood, a half-hour (%4731-9613; Paseo Victorica 611; mains AR$110-
boat ride from Tigre, where you can take 220; h8:30am-midnight) For an upscale meal
residential walks on thin paths connected on Paseo Victorica, the city’s pleasant river-
by bridges over narrow channels. There are side avenue, try María Luján, which has a
several restaurants and accommodations great patio.
here. The Rama Negra area has a quieter
and more natural setting with fewer servic- Almacén de Flores CAFE $$
es, but it’s an hour’s boat ride away. (%011-5197-4009; Boulevard Saenz Peña 1336;
mains AR$95-150; h9:30am-7pm Sun-Wed, to 2am
Several companies offer inexpensive, Thu-Sat) A good eatery is bohemian Almacén
one- to two-hour boat tours, but commuter de Flores, offering healthy, gourmet fare.
launches give you flexibility if you want to
go for a stroll or stop for lunch at one of the 88 Information
delta’s restaurants.
Bonanza Deltaventura ADVENTURE TOUR Tourist Office (% 4512-4497; www.vivitigre.
gov.ar; Mitre 305; h 9am-6pm Mon-Fri) Lo-
(%4409-6967; www.deltaventura.com) Adven- cated behind McDonald’s.
tures include canoe trips, bike rides and
horseback rides. 88 Getting There & Away
El Dorado Kayak KAYAKING BOAT
Sturla Viajes (www.sturlaviajes.com.ar) has
(% 15-4039-5858; www.eldoradokayak.com) limited transport boats to Tigre that leave from
Kayaking tours deep inside the delta; all Grierson 400 in Puerto Madero, along with tours
equipment and lunch included. that include boat transport and a trip around the
Delta. Check its website for schedules.
4 Sleeping & Eating
Tigre’s huge delta region is dotted with doz- BUS
ens of accommodations, including camping, Take bus 60 (marked ‘Panam’) straight to Tigre
B&Bs, cabañas (cabins) and beach resorts. (1½ hours).
Since many are reached only by boat, most
provide meals. Tigre’s tourist office has pho- TRAIN
tos and information on all accommodations From Retiro train station you can take a ‘Tigre’
and many are listed on its website. Book on train straight to Tigre (one hour). The best way
weekends and holidays, when prices can rise to reach Tigre, however, is via the Tren de la
significantly. Costa (tickets AR$40) – a pleasant light-rail
train with attractive stations and views. This
Tigre’s cuisine is not cutting-edge, but train line starts in the suburb of Olivos: to get
dining can be atmospheric. Ask the tourist there, take a train from Retiro train station and
office about the various restaurants in the get off at Mitre station, then cross the bridge to
delta. The following accommodations are in the Tren de la Costa. Buses 59, 60 and 152 also
the city of Tigre itself. go to the Tren de la Costa.
©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
The Pampas & the
Atlantic Coast
Includes Why Go?
La Plata........................ 117 There’s Buenos Aires, and then there’s the province of
Luján............................ 121 Buenos Aires. Home to more than a third of the country’s
San Antonio de Areco...123 population, this is the nation’s economic powerhouse:
Southern Pampas........125 these fertile grasslands financed Argentina’s turn-of-the-
Tandil............................125 century golden age and still produce most of the country’s
Sierra de la Ventana....128 famous beef.
San Clemente
del Tuyú........................135 While the region isn’t exactly packed with tourist attrac-
Pinamar.......................135 tions, simple pleasures and traditional gaucho culture are
Villa Gesell...................137 waiting to be discovered. Charming San Antonio de Areco
Mar del Plata................138 offers a glimpse of Argentina’s real-life cowboys in action,
Bahía Blanca................147 while the picturesque hills around Tandil are lovely for hik-
ing and feasting on locally produced picadas (shared ap-
Best Places petizer plates). Beach towns on the Atlantic coast provide a
to Eat breezy escape from the summer heat.
¨¨Época de Quesos (p128) If you have a few days to spare, check into one of the
¨¨La Esquina de Merti (p124) region’s historic estancias (ranches), where you can ride a
¨¨Sur (p144) criollo horse under the huge sky – and experience the faded
¨¨Cervecería Modelo (p120) elegance of Argentina’s past for yourself.
¨¨Tante (p136)
When to Go Rainfall inches/mm
Best Places 10/250
to Stay Mar del Plata
¨¨Villa Nuccia (p143) °C/°F Temp
¨¨Benevento Hotel (p119)
¨¨Paradores Draghi (p124) 40/104
¨¨Estancia Ave María (p127)
¨¨Hotel Muñiz (p148) 30/86 8/200
20/68 6/150
10/50 4/100
0/32 2/50
-10/14 MAM J 0
JF J ASOND
Jan–Feb Summer Oct–Nov & Mar– Early Nov San
brings sunny Apr Spring and Antonio de Areco
weather and big fall are perfect for hosts the gaucho
crowds to the exploring Tandil. festival Día de la
beach. Tradición.
116
NORTHERN PAMPAS the Río de la Plata to the banks of the Río
Negro, stretching west toward the Andes
The pampas is both a general term for a and all the way up to the southern parts
large geographic region of fertile plains of Córdoba and Santa Fe provinces, taking
and the name of the province that lies to in the entire Buenos Aires and La Pampa
the west of Buenos Aires (La Pampa). The provinces.
pampas grasslands roll southwards from
RN Córdoba 1RN1 ARGENTINA
36 RN
Th e Pa m pas & th e Atl a nti c C oas t N oORr tT hHEeRr Nn PaA mMpPaAsS SAN 8 Rosario RíoP r ta
LUIS a aná
Santa R9N URUGUAY
R7N Fe
Río Salado San R7N San Antonio Tigre
Mendoza Río Atuel Luis de Areco
RN
Luján
35 BUENOS AIRES
Río de la Pla
La Plata
2R2N6 R3N 1RP1
RN Reserva Natural
Municipal
33 RP Punta Rasa
61 Castelli
La Pampa Buenos
oRCíohSaadlail u Reserva SANTA Aires San Clemente
Provincial ROSA Lago Parque del Tuyú
1R5N1 vdúo Parque Luro Provincial Tandil Pinamar
Epecuén 8RP5
25 de RN Ernesto
e Cerro de la Tornquist S de Villa Gesell
152 Ventana Villa Ventana Mar Azul
Tan2dR2iN6l
Mayo Parque Tornquist Mar Chiquita
Puelches Nacional Mar del
Río 1R5N2 Lihué Calel Cerro Tres Picos Sierra de 2R2N8 RP Plata
Colorado (1239m) la Ventana Miramar
88
NEUQUÉN Bahía Blanca Parque Necochea
Miguel
RN Isla Lillo
22
Trinidad
Río Río Negro R3N ATLANTIC
Negro OCEAN
Carmen de
Patagones 0 200 km
VIEDMA 0 100 miles
RN
3 Golfo
San Matías
The Pampas & the Atlantic Coast Highlights
1 Going gaucho in San 4 Spending the weekend 7 Going windsurfing,
Antonio de Areco (p123), riding horses and relaxing swimming or cycling in
the prettiest town in the at one of the region’s the stylish beach resort of
pampas. traditional Argentine Pinamar (p135).
2 Packing a picnic of estancias (p117). 8 Following the footsteps
locally produced prosciutto 5 Peeking through a of generations of Catholic
and cheese and going for natural rock ‘window’ after pilgrims to the cathedral in
a hike in the hills of Tandil hiking up the mountain Luján (p121).
(p125). in laid-back Sierra de la 9 Walking the quaint
3 Soaking up the sun and Ventana (p128). wooden boardwalk along
a vibrant cultural scene in 6 Wandering the streets of the coast in Villa Gesell
Mar del Plata (p138), the La Plata (p117), South Ameri (p137).
‘Pearl of the Atlantic.’ ca’s first fully planned city.
117
HOME ON THE RANGE Th e Pa m pas & th e Atl a nti c C oas t SNL aiogrPhtlthastear n Pampas
One of the best ways to spend a few days in the region – and soak up a bit of traditional
gaucho culture while remaining within easy reach of Buenos Aires – is to check in to an
estancia (ranch). Once the private homes of wealthy landowners, many of the province’s
grandest mansions are now open to the public. Choose between a día de campo (coun-
try day; an access pass to the ranch that typically includes an elaborate lunch and after-
noon tea, plus horseback riding and other outdoor activities) or stay for a night or two.
Upscale Estancia El Ombú de Areco (%492080; www.estanciaelombu.com; RP31,
Cuartel VI, Villa Lía; día de campo US$100, s/d incl full board US$325/410; aWs) is a 300-
hectare ranch with a gorgeous colonial mansion that dates from 1880. It’s named after
the massive ombú (Phytolacca dioica) tree casting shade over the gardens. At El Ombú,
it’s old-fashioned hospitality all the way. In addition to horseback riding, you can watch
(and even take part in) rounding up cattle herds. The estancia also provides complimen-
tary bicycles, or you can just relax in the gardens or linger over an alfresco lunch or tea.
It’s located about 20km outside of San Antonio de Areco.
A slightly more affordable option – and one that’s also, conveniently, closer to town –
is Estancia La Cinacina (%452045; www.lacinacina.com.ar; Zerboni s/n; d from US$117;
as). With thematic gaucho shows, the estancia is on the touristy side, but it’s popular
with travelers. Stay overnight or come on a weekend for the día de campo (fill out the
website form for the latest prices and availability).
Several other estancias in the area offer similar experiences. Check www.sanantonio
deareco.com/donde-dormir/estancias for a full list, and make sure you do your home-
work before checking in anywhere: travelers regularly complain about overpriced and
logistically challenging experiences at some estancias.
Private transfers directly from Buenos Aires to most estancias are available for an ex-
tra charge – see the properties’ individual websites for details. Another option is Areco
Bus (p125), a shuttle that offers transportation from Buenos Aires.
The rich soil and lush natural grasses of Dardo Rocha founded La Plata to give the
the northern pampas make it Argentina’s province of Buenos Aires its own capital –
best cattle-raising country. The region yields and decided he wouldn’t leave its design up
plentiful hides, beef, wool and wheat for to chance. He chose engineer Pedro Benoit’s
global markets, stamping Argentina on the elaborate city plan, based upon balance and
world’s economic map. logic, with diagonal avenues crossing the
regular 5km-square grid pattern to connect
From the mid-19th century, the province the major plazas, creating a distinctive star
of Buenos Aires was the undisputed political design. Elegant on paper, this blueprint cre-
and economic center of the country. When ates confusion at many intersections, with
the city of Buenos Aires became Argentina’s up to eight streets going off in all directions.
capital, the province submitted to national (Fascinating aerial photos of the city plan,
authority, but didn’t lose its influence. By the including photographs taken from space,
1880s, after a brief but contentious civil war, are easily viewable online.)
the province responded by creating its own
provincial capital in the model city of La Plata. Today, La Plata has the same belle epoque
architecture, gracious municipal buildings
La Plata and leafy parks as Buenos Aires, but on a
smaller scale. The big draws are its impos-
% 0221 / POP 654,000 ing neo-Gothic cathedral – the largest in
Argentina – and a famous building designed
Just over an hour from Buenos Aires, La Pla- by Le Corbusier, his only completed work in
ta enjoys a few interesting distinctions: the Latin America.
bustling university city is considered South
America’s first planned city, and the first in 1 Sights
Latin America to have electric street lighting.
La Plata’s main sights are all within walking
It all started when Buenos Aires became distance of each other.
Argentina’s new capital in 1880. Governor
118
La Plata e# 0 500 m
A 0 0.25 miles
Plaza D
1 Olazábal CalleC4a1lle 4C0alleCC3aalll9lee3387 B C
Hipódromo Av 122
Estación Ferrocarril £#
General Roca Av 52 1
Terminal de
›# Ómnibus
(Bus Station)
Av 7 13 ÿ# Av 1 10 ÷#
Calle 2
16 ÿ# Av 44 CalClea4lle 3
Diagonal 80
Diagonal 74Calle 42 Plaza #z 4 â#5 Paseo del
Bosque
Th e Pa m pas & th e Atl a nti c C oas t NSL aiogrPhtlthastear n PampasPlazaDiagoCnaallelC76a7lle 5
Italia Rivadavia 12 æ# Av 60
æ#* 1 Club Estudiantes
Casa
51 Curutchet de la Plata
2 CalleCa4ll6eA4v54C4alle 43 Av 2
Calle 5C0alleC4al9le 48Calle 47 53 3
CalClaell5e554
Av
D3 CalleCN1a6lelMePCPige1ala5harllsibezdooa1i(4ar3hnkoomoAVd)v14C13aÿ#lle61â#2 2MÜ#*PolPCarezlaanatoteaæ#dra8l1ú#9dæ#e1l19aSï#â#7Caaæ#nPlle1lMCaú#81az1allaeCrt1aæ#í0l3nle#ûC29a0l1ÿ#le5A8vú#7 17
CaCllaClelale6lAe3v6C2a66lC1la0CellaCl5elal9el5e85756Diagonal 79
Plaza Av 1
Dardo
Rocha Diagonal 73
CCaallllee 6645
ABCD
La Plata oCatedral de la Plata CHURCH
æ Top Sights (%423-3931; www.catedraldelaplata.com; Pla-
1 Casa Curutchet .....................................C2 za Moreno, calle 51 & 15; museum admission
2 Catedral de la Plata ..............................B3 weekday/w eekend $55/48; h10am-7pm, museum
from 11am Tue-Sun) Construction began on
æ Sights La Plata’s spectacular neo-Gothic cathedral
3 Casa de Gobierno .................................C2 in 1885, but the church wasn’t inaugura
4 Jardín Zoológico ................................... C1 ted until 1932, and tower construction
5 Museo de La Plata ................................ D1 was only completed in 1999. The cathedral
6 Museo y Archivo Dardo Rocha............A3 was inspired by medieval predecessors in
7 Palacio de la Legislatura ......................B2 Cologne and Amiens, and has fine stained-
8 Palacio Municipal..................................B3 glass windows and polished granite floors;
9 Pasaje Dardo Rocha .............................B2 90-minute tours (11am, 2:30pm and 4pm
Monday to Friday, reservations necessary)
10 Paseo del Bosque ................................. D1 include the museum and an elevator ride
11 Teatro Argentino...................................B3 to the top. There’s also a gift shop and cafe
12 Teatro Martín Fierro .............................D2 on-site.
ÿ Sleeping
13 Benevento Hotel ................................... B1 oCasa Curutchet ARCHITECTURE
14 Hotel Catedral .......................................A3
15 San Marco Hotel ...................................C2 (%421-8032; www.capbacs.com; Av 53, No 320;
16 Único Ecohostel .................................... B1 admission AR$40; h9am-1pm Mon & Tue, 9am-
ú Eating 5pm Wed-Fri, 1-5pm Sat) The famed French-
17 Cervecería Modelo................................C2 Swiss architect Le Corbusier only built
18 Lo de Antonio Parrilla Fonda...............B3 two structures in the Americas: Carpenter
19 Market Café ...........................................B2 Center for the Visual Arts at Harvard, and
û Drinking & Nightlife Casa Curutchet. The strikingly modern
20 Molly's Beer House...............................C2 house, commissioned by the Argentine sur-
geon Pedro Curutchet in 1948, is a prime
example of Le Corbusier’s five points of
4 Sleeping 119
architecture. The house was featured in the Único Ecohostel HOSTEL $
award-winning film El hombre de al lado (%423-2626; www.hostelunico.com; Calle 4, No
(The Man Next Door; 2009). Though tours 565; dm/d/tr from US$19/66/91; aW) S A
are supposed to run every half-hour, it’s best traveler’s favorite, this gleaming modern
to email in advance.
Paseo del Bosque PARK hostel is conveniently located only a block
from the bus station. Highlights include a
Plantations of eucalyptus, gingko, palm pair of common kitchens, a lovely outdoor
and subtropical hardwoods cover Paseo
del Bosque, parkland expropriated from an patio and garden, and ecofriendly ameni-
ties, including solar hot water. Note that the
estancia at the time of the city’s founding. neighborhood can feel a little rough around
It attracts a collection of strolling fami-
lies, smooching lovers and sweaty joggers, the edges after dark.
Th e Pa m pas & th e Atl a nti c C oas t LSNaloerPetlphaitneargn Pampas
and contains various interesting sights: Hotel Catedral HOTEL $
a small lake with paddleboats for rent, an
observatory, the modest Jardín Zoológico (%483-0091; www.hcatedral.com.ar; Calle 49, No
965; s/d/tr US$42/64/73; W) Simple, small
(%427-3925; admission AR$15; h10am-6pm and well-run, Hotel Catedral, two blocks
Tue-Sun), the open-air Teatro Martín Fierro,
which hosts music and drama performanc- west of the cathedral plaza, is a top pick for
budget travelers.
es; and the star attraction, Museo de La
Plata (p119). oBenevento Hotel
HOTEL $$
(%423-7721; www.hotelbenevento.com.ar; Calle
Museo de La Plata MUSEUM 2, No 645; d US$83; aiW) This charmingly
(%425-7744; www.museo.fcnym.unlp.edu.ar; Pa- renovated hotel, housed inside an elegant
seo del Bosque s/n; admission AR$20, children
under 12yr free, Tue free; h10am-6pm Tue-Sun; c) French-inspired building that dates from
1915, offers pretty rooms with high ceilings
This excellent museum features the paleon and cable TV. Most have wood floors, plus
tological, zoological, archaeological and an-
thropological finds of famous Patagonian balconies overlooking the busy street; top-
floor rooms are the most modern and offer
explorer Francisco P Moreno. The eclectic great views over the city. It’s a few blocks
collection includes Egyptian tomb relics,
Jesuit art, amusing taxidermy, amazing skel- from the bus station.
etons, mummies, fossils, rocks and minerals, San Marco Hotel HOTEL $$
scary insects and reconstructed dinosaurs.
There’s also a cafe. Arrange English tours in (%422-9322; www.sanmarcohotel.com.ar; Calle
54, No 523; d from US$97; aW) This comforta-
advance. ble three-star enjoys a prime location in the
ARCHITECTURE OF LA PLATA
Architecture fans plan trips to La Plata just to see Le Corbusier’s Casa Curutchet
(p118). But the city skyline has several other highlights you’ll spot on a quick stroll
around the center.
Opposite the cathedral is the Palacio Municipal (cnr Av 51 & Calle 11), designed in
German Renaissance style by Hanoverian architect Hubert Stiers. On the west side of
the plaza, the Museo y Archivo Dardo Rocha (%427-5591; www.amigosmuseorocha.
com.ar; Calle 50, No 935; h9am-5pm Mon-Fri, 3-6pm Sat & Sun) F was the vacation
house of the city’s creator and contains period furniture and many of his personal
knickknacks.
Two blocks northeast, the Teatro Argentino (www.teatroargentino.gba.gov.ar; Av 51
btwn Calles 9 & 10) is a concrete monolith, but boasts great acoustics – ideal for the line-
up of ballet, symphony orchestras and opera. Two blocks further northeast, in front of
Plaza San Martín, is the ornate Palacio de la Legislatura (Plaza San Martín), also in
German Renaissance style. Nearby, catch the French Classic Pasaje Dardo Rocha (cnr
Av 6 & Calle 50), once La Plata’s main railroad station and now the city’s major cultural
center, containing two museums. Also close by is the Flemish Renaissance Casa de
Gobierno (Plaza San Martín), housing the provincial governor and his retinue.
120 Market Café CAFE $
heart of town, between Plaza San Martín (%483-5631; www.marketcafeargentina.com.ar;
and Paseo del Bosque. Travelers particularly Calle 48, No 640; mains AR$50-75; h8am-9pm
like the breakfast buffet. Mon-Sat; v) This sleek cafe and eatery is a
breath of fresh air in La Plata. Come in the
5 Eating & Drinking morning for an artfully prepared latte and
freshly baked pastries, or later for fresh sal-
At the time of research, a buzzed-about Argen ads, wraps. smoothies, burgers and cocktails.
tinian chef, Mauro Colagreco, was about to
open Carne, an organic burger bar, at CalleTh e Pa m pas & th e Atl a nti c C oas t NEL aotrPitlnhagte&ar nD rPianmkpiansg Lo de Antonio Parrilla Fonda PARRILLA $$
50, No 452. Let us know how it turns out. (%482-6104; Calle 54, No 654; mains AR$80-150;
hnoon-3pm & 8pm-midnight Mon-Sat; c) A cor-
Further afield, a 10-minute taxi ride from ner parrilla with an elegant edge – spacious
the center in the historic bohemian neigh- wooden booths, fine cutlery – and a full
borhood Meridiano V, you’ll find several menu of steaks and pastas, plus a succinct
bars and live-music venues, plus theater, children’s menu. It’s a convenient stop if
cinema and cultural centers catering to uni- you’re walking between the cathedral and
versity students Thursday through Sunday the park.
evenings.
oCervecería Modelo PUB FOOD $
(www.cerveceriamodelo.com.ar; cnr Calles 5 & 54;
mains AR$52-89; h8am-1am Sun-Thu, to 3am Fri Molly’s Beer House BEER GARDEN
& Sat; W) Dating from 1894, its ceiling hung (%482-1648; Calle 53, No 538; h7pm-2am) A
welcome new addition to La Plata, this styl-
with hams and its floors strewn with peanut ish bar occupies a beautifully restored old
shells, this classic place serves snacks, meals
and ice-cold ales to a happy crowd. There house. There’s a lovely open-air courtyard,
adding to the modern beer-garden atmos-
are great sidewalk tables, and it’s not too old phere, and a menu of 35 different varieties
to boast a big-screen TV and wi-fi.
of craft beer.
THE BEEF ON BEEF
Juicy, grass-fed steaks have always been one of Argentina’s biggest tourist attractions. But
these days, this type of beef has nearly disappeared. Stuffing cattle into pens and feeding
them grain is becoming a standard way of raising cattle for market. Today, over 80% of
Argentina’s cows slaughtered each year experience their last few months in a feedlot.
Factory-farmed meat is a fairly recent phenomenon in Argentina. The country’s ag-
riculturally rich and vast pampas plains were ideal grounds for raising free-range beef,
and up until 2001, around 90% of cattle ate only their natural food: grass. But in the last
decade, several developments have changed this. The price of agricultural crops such as
soybeans, of which Argentina is one of the world’s top producers, has skyrocketed, mak-
ing it more lucrative to grow the legume than dedicate space to cattle. A severe drought
in recent years dealt another blow to the beef industry – there just wasn’t enough grass
to feed the herds.
But perhaps the biggest factor detrimental to the grass-fed cattle has been gov-
ernment subsidies for feedlot development, with the intention of producing beef more
quickly than before. It’s less profitable to raise a fully grass-fed cow – which takes much
longer to reach maturity – than a grain-fed one. And the Argentine government also
passed legislation keeping beef prices artificially low within its borders, while at the same
time using taxes to discourage cattle ranchers from making profits by exporting beef. So
even more ranchers have turned pastureland into soy or corn rows to stay alive.
At this rate, practically all Argentine cattle will soon live out their last few months in
dirt-floor corrals, with their movements restricted, eating an un-cowlike diet of grains.
They’ll be shot full of immunizations and antibiotics, which are crucial to treating ail-
ments brought on by these unnatural conditions. Their beef will be slightly less flavorful
and nutritious, yet more tender – due to the lower percentage of muscle, plus higher
level of fat. And the modern world of commercial beef production will finally have caught
up to Argentina, wiping away a part of its history, reputation…and perhaps some of that
famous Argentine pride.
121
88 Information L’EAU VIVE Th e Pa m pas & th e Atl a nti c C oas t INLnuofjroátrnhmeartni oPnampas
Municipal Tourist Office (% 427-1535; www. It’s not every day you have the chance
laciudad.laplata.gov.ar/turismo; cnr Calles 7 & to dine on French cuisine – prepared
50, Pasaje Dardo Rocha; h10am-8pm) Just off by Carmelite nuns from around the
Plaza San Martín. world – in small-town Argentina. L’Eau
Vive (%421774; www.leauvivedeargentina.
88 Getting There & Away com.ar; Constitución 2112; mains around
AR$150; hnoon-2:15pm & 8:30-10pm Tue-
La Plata’s bus terminal (www.laplataterminal. Sat, noon-2:15pm Sun) is on the outskirts
com) has plenty of connections to other parts of of Luján, but plenty of foodies consider
Argentina, plus a helpful website with links and the friendly restaurant worth a detour.
information. The menu features expertly prepared
Grupo Plaza (www.grupoplaza.com.ar) runs fish, cheese plates and a range of
frequent buses (AR$21 to 26, 1½ to two hours) gourmet desserts. Reservations recom-
between Buenos Aires and La Plata’s bus sta- mended. Take bus 501 from the center,
tion. Though the buses stop at many locations or catch a taxi.
in Buenos Aires, the easiest place to get on and
off is at Retiro, the start/end of the line. Buses a crunchy roll). You can rent boats for a
leave from the side street Martínez Zuvería, paddle, while a chairlift carries sightseers
adjacent to Plaza Canadá in front of Buenos over the grubby river – an oddly charming
Aires’ Retiro train station. You can also board or touch.
disembark along Ave 9 Julio or at Constitución
train station. Check www.laplataterminal.com 1 Sights
for a full list of stops along the journey. Buses
leave approximately every 20 to 30 minutes oBasílica Nuestra Señora
until 10pm, with fewer departures on weekends.
Another bus line, Costera Metropolitana, makes de Luján CHURCH
the same trip – the company doesn’t have a
website, but La Plata’s bus station website has (%02323-42-0058; www.basilicadelujan.org.ar;
more details. San Martín 51; crypt admission AR$15; hbasilica
8am-7pm, crypt 10:15am-5pm Mon-Fri, 10am-6pm
La Plata is also served by Buenos Aires’ Línea Sat & Sun) Luján’s undisputed focal point
Roca (p111) suburban train line, with half- is this imposing neo-Gothic basilica, built
hourly services from the Constitución station from 1887 to 1935 and made from a lovely
(AR$5.75, 1½ hours). At the time of research, rose-colored stone that glows in the setting
new train cars and a faster ‘express’ service
were about to be implemented.
Buses from La Plata
DESTINATION COST (AR$) TIME (HR) sun. The venerated statue of the Virgin sits
Bahía Blanca 658-868 8-11 in the high chamber behind the main altar.
Bariloche 1671-1905 24 Under the basilica you can tour a crypt that’s
Córdoba 655-770 10-13 inhabited by Virgin statues from all over the
Mar del Plata 375-428 5 world. Masses take place in the basilica sev-
Mendoza 900 17 eral times a day.
Complejo Museográfico Enrique
Udaondo MUSEUM
(%02323-420245; Torrezuri 917; admission AR$5;
h11:30am-5pm Mon-Fri & 10:30am-6pm Sat &
Luján Sun) On the west side of Luján’s gargantu-
an basilica plaza, this gorgeous colonial-era
% 02323 / POP 106,000 museum complex rambles with several dis-
play rooms, pretty patios and gardens. The
Luján is a small riverside town that fa- Sala General José de San Martín showcases
mously overflows several times per year as Argentina’s battles for independence, while
pilgrims make their way here to visit Ar- the Sala de Gaucho contains some beautiful
gentina’s most important shrine. It boasts a mate (a bitter ritual tea) ware, horse gear
huge Spanish-style plaza with an imposing and other gaucho paraphernalia. Also part
neo-Gothic cathedral, as well as a couple of of the complex is the fascinating Museo del
interesting museums. The riverside area is Transporte (p122).
lined with restaurants and barbecue stands
selling choripán (a spicy pork sausage in
Th e Pa m pas & th e Atl a nti c C oas t LNF ueosjrtátnihvaelrsn &PaEmvpeansts122
LA VIRGENCITA
Argentina’s patron saint is a ubiquitous presence – you can spot her poster on butcher-
shop walls, her statue in churches throughout the country and her image on the dash-
boards of taxis. She wears a triangular blue dress, stands on a half-moon and radiates
streams of glory from her crowned head.
In 1630 a Portuguese settler in Tucumán asked a friend in Brazil to send him an image
of the Virgin for his new chapel. Unsure what style of Virgin was required, the friend sent
two – including one of the Immaculate Conception. After setting out from the port of
Buenos Aires, the cart bearing the statues got bogged down near the river of Luján and
only moved when the Immaculate Conception was taken off. Its owner took this as a
sign, and left the statue in Luján so that a shrine could be built there. The other statue
continued its journey to the northwest.
Since then the Virgin of Luján has been credited with a number of miracles – from
curing tumors and sending a fog to hide early settlers from warring Indians, to protecting
the province from a cholera epidemic. She was rewarded for her trouble in 1886 when
Pope Leo XIII crowned her with a golden coronet set with almost 500 pearls and gems.
Every year millions of pilgrims from throughout Argentina visit Luján’s basilica, where
the original 17th-century statue is still displayed, to honor the Virgin for her intercession
in affairs of peace, health, forgiveness and consolation. If you arrive here during the mas-
sive pilgrimage on the first Sunday in October, you’ll spot families of exhausted pilgrims
snoozing in the square, enjoying barbecues by the river and filling plastic bottles with
holy water from the fountain.
Museo del Transporte MUSEUM 4 Sleeping & Eating
(Torrezuri 917, Complejo Museográfico Enrique Luján can easily be seen on a day trip from
Udaondo; admission AR$5; h11:30am-5pm Mon- Buenos Aires. If you decide to overnight
Fri & 10:30am-6pm Sat & Sun) Luján’s trans- on a weekend, however, be sure to reserve
portation museum displays a remarkable ahead. The central parts of San Martín, 9
collection of horse-drawn carriages from de Julio and the riverfront are all lined with
the late 1800s, the first steam locomotive restaurants.
to serve the city from Buenos Aires and a
monster of a hydroplane that crossed the
Atlantic in 1926. The most offbeat exhib- Hotel Hoxón HOTEL $$
(%0810-333-1070; www.hotelhoxon.com; 9 de Ju-
its, however, are the stuffed and scruffy lio 760; s/d/tr from US$70/114/135; aiWs)
remains of Gato and Mancha, the hardy The best and biggest in town, this place two
Argentine criollo horses ridden by adven- blocks north of the basilica has modern,
turer AF Tschiffely from Buenos Aires to clean and comfortable rooms. Superiors are
New York. This trip took 2½ years, from carpeted and come with fridge and air-con.
1925 to 1928. There’s also a swimming pool with raised
sundeck.
z Festivals & Events
88 Information
On Día de la Virgen de Luján, the first
Saturday in October, throngs of the faithful Tourist Office (% 02323-427082; www.lujan.
walk the 65km from the Buenos Aires neigh- tur.ar; San Martin 550; h 9am-6pm)
borhood of Liniers to Luján – a journey of
up to 18 hours. Other large gatherings occur 88 Getting There & Away
on May 8 (Virgin’s Day), the first weekend in
August for the colorful Peregrinación Bo- Lujan’s bus terminal (Av de Nuestra Señora de
liviana, the last weekend in September for Luján & Almirante Brown) is three blocks north
the ‘gaucho’ pilgrimage (watch for horses) of the basilica. From Buenos Aires, take bus 57
and December 8 for Immaculate Concep- (AR$29, two hours), operated by Transportes
tion Day. Atlántida (% 434957). It leaves every half-hour
from Plaza Italia (in Palermo) and Plaza Miserere
(outside the Once train station, with a bus stop
on Av Rivadavia).
123
Museo Las Lilas de Areco MUSEUM
San Antonio de Areco (%456425; www.museolaslilas.org; Moreno
279; adult/student AR$100/50; h10am-8pm
% 02326 / POP 20,000 Thu-Sun mid-Sep–mid-Mar, to 6pm rest of year)
Florencio Molina Campos is to Argentines
San Antonio de Areco is the prettiest town what Norman Rockwell is to Americans – Th e Pa m pas & th e Atl a nti c C oas t NS iaognrhtAthnsetronn Pi oamdpeaAsr e c o
in the pampas. About 115km northwest a folk artist whose themes are based on
of Buenos Aires, it welcomes many day- comical caric atures. This pretty courtyard
tripping porteños (residents of Buenos museum displays his famous works. There
Aires) who come for the peaceful atmos- are separate admission fees to access the
phere and picturesque colonial streets. The gallery and the adjacent Sala de Carru-
town dates from the early 18th century and ajes (carriage room); the prices quoted
preserves many traditions of the gaucho here get you into both. Stop for a café con
and criollo (people of pure Spanish descent leche or a slice of homemade cake at the
born in the New World), especially among museum’s cafe.
its artisans, who produce fine silverwork
and saddlery. Gauchos from all over the
pampas show up for November’s Día de la
Festivals & Events
zTradición, where you can catch them, and
their horses, strutting the cobbled streets in Día de la Tradición CULTURAL
all their finery. (hNov) Areco is the symbolic center of
San Antonio de Areco’s compact town Argentina’s vestigial cowboy culture, and
center and quiet streets are very walkable. on Día de la Tradición the town puts on
Around the Plaza Ruiz de Arellano, named the country’s biggest gaucho celebra-
in honor of the town’s founding estanciero tion. If you’re in the area, don’t miss it.
(ranch owner), are several historic build- The weekend event is held in early to
ings, including the iglesia parroquial (par- mid-N ovember, and includes displays of
ish church). equestrian skill, folk dancing and craft
Like many other small towns in this part exhibitions; see www.sanantoniodeareco.
of Argentina, Areco shuts down during the com for exact dates.
afternoon siesta.
4 Sleeping
1 Sights
While San Antonio is a popular destination
for day trips out of Buenos Aires, it’s worth
oMuseo Gauchesco Ricardo hanging around as there are some lovely
places to stay (and great places to eat and
Güiraldes MUSEUM drink, too – you’ll need more than a day
to try them all). Book on weekends, when
(%455839; Camino Ricardo Güiraldes s/n; h11am- prices go up.
5pm Wed-Mon) F Recently reinaugurated
after major restorations – the building, like
many others in town, sustained serious flood
damage in 2009 – this sprawling museum in
Parque Criollo dates to 1938 and includes Areco Hostel HOSTEL $
an old flour mill, a re-created pulpería (%453120; www.arecohostel.com.ar; Arellano 121;
(tave rn), a colonial-style chapel and a 20th- dm/s/d/tr without bathroom from US$32/45/
century reproduction of an 18th-century 75/110; W) In an atmospheric old building
casco (ranch house). Displays include horse
gear, gauchesco artwork and rooms dedica
ted to Ricardo Güiraldes, author of the novel THE ARTISANS OF SAN
Don Segundo Sombra. ANTONIO DE ARECO
Puente Viejo BRIDGE Even on the shortest stroll around town
you can’t miss the silversmith shops
(Old Bridge) The puente viejo (old bridge), and artisan studios lining the streets of
spanning the Río Areco, dates from 1857 and San Antonio de Areco. Local artisans are
follows the original cart road to northern known throughout the country – mate
Argentina. Once a toll crossing, it’s now a (herbal tea) paraphernalia, rastras
pedestrian bridge leading to San Antonio de (silver-studded belts), knives and
Areco’s main attraction, the Museo Gauches- leather goods are the most traditional
co Ricardo Güiraldes. items to buy.
124
San Antonio de Areco e# 0 500 m
0 0.25 miles
A B JA C D
D Estancia El Ombú
1 GüiraldesNogueLiorapez de Areco (7km) 1
Díaz
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1 Museo
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12
Ricardo
Güiraldes ú#
Río Areco æ# 3 #ï
E Zerboni 11 ú#
Th e Pa m pas & th e Atl a nti c C oas t SENaaotnritnAhgnetronn Pi oamdpeaAsr e c o Matheu ÿ# 7 8 4 Segundo Sombra ›#
Terminal de
2 ÿ# 6 Lavalle Plaza ÿ#10 ú# ÿ# 2
Ruiz de ú# 5
3 Arellano ú# 9 Ómnibus ¦!8
(Bus Station)
Mitre 3
General Paz S Bolívar Sarmiento Av Doctor Smith
M Belgrano San Martín Zapiola B Rivadavia
C CM Martínez M Moreno Ruiz Alvear
Av Del Valle Guido
Pellegrini Italia â# 2 LN Alem de Plaza
GüAirvaldes Gómez
Plaza Arellano Azcuénaga
Belgrano V Alsina
ABCD
San Antonio de Areco oParadores Draghi GUESTHOUSE $$
(%455583; www.paradoresdraghi.com.ar; Matheu
æ Top Sights 380; s/d from US$105/120; aiWs) It’s worth
1 Museo Gauchesco Ricardo staying over in Areco just so you can check
Güiraldes ............................................. A1 in here. Lovingly run by a mother-daughter
team and conveniently located near the
æ Sights main plaza, this nine-room boutique guest-
2 Museo Las Lilas de Areco ....................B3 house has spacious rooms, breezy patios, a
3 Puente Viejo........................................... B1 grassy garden with a beautiful pool, a lovely
continental breakfast, and a private silver
ÿ Sleeping workshop and museum where you can learn
4 Antigua Casona .....................................C2 about silverware-making.
5 Areco Hostel ..........................................B2
6 Estancia La Cinacina ............................ A2 Antigua Casona GUESTHOUSE $$
7 Paradores Draghi ..................................B2 (%456600; www.antiguacasona.com; Segundo
Sombra 495; d from US$145; aWs) Anoth-
ú Eating er wonderful place to stay in Areco, this
8 Almacén Ramos Generales .................C2 restored traditional home offers five high-
9 Boliche de Bessonart ...........................C2 ceilinged rooms with wooden floors; all are
10 La Esquina de Merti ..............................C2 set around covered tile hallways and leafy
11 La Olla de Cobre ....................................B2 patios. There’s a communal parrilla (grill),
12 Puesto La Lechuza ............................... B1 should you be tempted to grill your own
steak, and a small but picturesque swim-
facing the central square, San Antonio’s nic- ming pool set in a brick-lined courtyard.
est hostel offers a small range of dormitory-
style accommodations as well as private 5 Eating
rooms with shared baths. The clean, tiled
guest kitchen, narrow but grassy backyard, oLa Esquina de Merti ARGENTINE $
included continental breakfast and friendly (www.esquinademerti.com.ar; cnr Arellano & Se-
management add to the appeal. gundo Sombra; mains AR$45-90; h9am-midnight)
Housed inside an old pulpería right on the
125
plaza, this antique corner cafe is one of San 88 Getting There & Away
Antonio de Areco’s most traditional and
atmospheric. Stop in for coffee, empana- Areco’s bus terminal (Av Smith s/n) is five
das, sandwiches, a glass of wine, or a steak blocks east of the central square. Chevallier
grilled on the parrilla. When the weather’s (% 453904; www.nuevachevallier.com) runs
nice the outdoor tables are a prime spot for frequent buses to/from Buenos Aires (AR$105,
gaucho-watching. two hours).
oBoliche de Bessonart ARGENTINE $ A more expensive option, but a useful one
(cnr Zapiola & Segundo Sombra; picadas AR$25- if you’re trying to connect to one of the area’s
80; h11am-3pm & 6pm-late Tue-Sun) A local estancias (ranches) is the shuttle service oper
landmark. This weather-beaten corner ated by an independent company like Areco
building, originally a general store, is more Bus (www.arecobus.com.ar; roundtrip AR$300-
than 200 years old – for the past several 500). On weekends, the service offers roundtrip Th e Pa m pas & th e Atl a nti c C oas t TISnaofnuodtrihlmeartni oPnampas
decades, it’s been a family-run bar popu- transportation between Buenos Aires and San
lar with gauchos and young people alike. Antonio de Areco (AR$300) and roundtrip trans-
Small crowds pour in most nights for portation between Buenos Aires and certain es
picadas, washed down with free-flowing tancias, including El Ombú de Areco (AR$500).
beer, red wine, or fernet (a bitter aromatic Check the website for the latest itineraries and
spirit). to make reservations.
Puesto La Lechuza PARRILLA $ SOUTHERN PAMPAS
(%470136; Victorino Althaparro 423; mains AR$45-
85; hnoon-3pm & 8pm-midnight Sat, noon-3pm Spreading out from the capital, the pampas
Sun) Open weekends only, this charming region extends south beyond the borders
riverside spot is ideal on a warm day, when of Buenos Aires province and west into the
you can savor a lunch of empanadas or province of La Pampa.
grilled steak under the trees. There’s live
guitar music on Saturday nights starting In the southern part of Buenos Aires
around 9:30pm. province, the endlessly flat plain is punctu-
ated by sierras (hills). The Sierras de Tandil
La Olla de Cobre CAFE $ are ancient mountain ranges, worn to
(%453105; www.laolladecobre.com.ar; Matheu soft, low summits with heights that barely
433; snacks AR$20-55; h10am-1pm & 2:30- reach 500m. A little to the west, Sierra de
7:30pm Wed-Sun, 10am-1pm Mon) This cozy la Ventana’s jagged peaks rise to 1300m, at-
cafe specializes in artisanal chocolates and tracting hikers and climbers.
alfajores (traditional Argentinian cookie
sandwiches) to go with coffee, tea, and hot Further west again, in the province of La
chocolate. It’s also a great place to pick up Pampa, are the modest granite boulders of
an edible gift. Parque Nacional Lihué Calel.
Almacén Ramos Generales ARGENTINE $$ The hillside towns of Tandil and Sierra
(www.ramosgeneralesareco.com.ar; Zapiola 143; de la Ventana offer outdoor activities and
mains AR$65-160; hnoon-3pm & 8pm-midnight) a relaxing country atmosphere, while La
Another of San Antonio’s historic dining Pampa’s provincial capital of Santa Rosa is
venues, this elegantly restored space was a decent resting point for overland travelers
once a general store. Today, it offers a on their way west or south.
quaintly rustic setting and a traditional-
ly Argentinian culinary experience that’s Tandil
slightly more upscale than many options
in town. % 0249 / POP 124,000
88 Information Pretty Tandil sits at the northern edge of
the Sierras de Tandil, a 2.5-million-year-old
There are a few banks with ATMs along Alsina. mountain range worn down to gentle, grassy
Tourist Office (% 453165; www.sanantonio peaks and rocky outcroppings – perfect
deareco.com; cnr Zerboni & Arellano; h10am- for rock climbing and mountain biking.
7pm Mon-Fri, 8am-8pm Sat & Sun) It exudes a rare combination of laid-back
country charm with the energy of a thri
ving regional city. The town center is leafy
and relaxed, with many places observing
the afternoon siesta. Later in the evening,
126 1however, locals crowd the squares and
streets, shopping and partaking in the city’s Sights
cultural offerings. Going out for picadas –
wooden boards piled high with locally pro- The walk to Parque Independencia from
duced cheeses and cured meats – is a local the southwestern edge of downtown offers
tradition, and Tandil is known throughout good views of the city, particularly at night,
Argentina for its excellent salamis. Some- while the central Plaza de Independencia,
thing else Tandil is known for? Nurturing a surrounded by the typical municipal build-
disproportionate number of Argentina’s ten- ings and a church, is where the locals go for
a stroll in the evenings.
nis stars, the latest of whom is Juan Martín Cerro El Centinela PARK
del Potro.
(www.cerrocentinela.com.ar) For great views
The town arose from Fuerte Independen- over Tandil and a relaxing afternoon hike,
cia, a military outpost established in 1823. head 6km west of town to this hilltop park.
Th e Pa m pas & th e Atl a nti c C oas t STaiognuhdttihsle r n Pampas In the early 1870s, it was the scene of one There’s a bakery, a restaurant with outdoor
of the province’s most remarkable battles, tables, and a chairlift that can whisk you
when renegade gauchos gathered in the further up the ridgeline (only open on week-
hills before going on a murderous rampage ends outside warm months). Take a taxi.
against landowners and recent immigrants. Cerro La Movediza HILL
Eventually the immigrants prevailed, and
the culinary skills they brought from Europe (www.lapiedramovediza.com.ar; Av Campos s/n)
have made the area an important producer At the north edge of town, the Piedra Mo
of specialty foods. vediza, a 300-ton stone, teetered precarious-
ly atop Cerro La Movediza for many years
before finally falling in 1912. A ‘replica’
(non-moving) stone was built in 2007; like
THE GLORIOUS GAUCHO
If the melancholy tanguero (tango dancer) is the essence of the porteño (resident of
Buenos Aires), then the gaucho represents the pampas: a lone cowboy-like figure, pitted
against the elements, with only his horse for a friend.
In the early years of the colony, the fringe-dwelling gauchos lived entirely beyond the
laws and customs of Buenos Aires, eking out an independent and often violent existence
in the countryside. They slaughtered cattle roaming free and unsupervised on the fertile
pampas and drank mate, the caffeine-rich herbal tea.
As the colony grew, cattle became too valuable to leave unprotected. Foreign demand
for hides increased and investors moved into the pampas to take control of the market,
establishing the estancia (ranch) system in which large landholdings were handed out to
a privileged few. Many freewheeling gauchos became exploited farmhands, while those
who resisted domestication were threatened with prison or the draft.
By the late 19th century, those in charge felt the gaucho had no place in modern Ar-
gentina. President Sarmiento (governed 1868–74) declared that ‘fertilizing the soil with
their blood is the only thing gauchos are good for’ – and already much gaucho blood had
been spilled, their horsemanship making them excellent infantrymen for Argentina’s civil
war and the brutal campaigns against the Indians.
Like so many heroes, the gaucho only won love and admiration after his demise. His
physical bravery, honor and lust for freedom are celebrated in José Hernández’s 1872
epic poem Martin Fierro and Ricardo Güiraldes’ novel Don Segundo Sombra. His rustic
traditions form part of Argentina’s sophisticated folk art, with skilled craftspeople pro-
ducing intricate silver gaucho knives and woven ponchos, while his image is endlessly
reproduced – most amusingly in Florencio Molina Campos’ caricatures.
These days, the gaucho-for-export is much easier to spot than the real deal, especially
in folkloric shows at many estancias. But the gaucho’s descendants can be found on
cattle farms throughout the pampas, riding over the plains in their dusty boinas (a kind
of beret) and bombachas (riding pants). And on special occasions, such as the Día de la
Tradición, they sport their best horse gear and show off their riding skills.
127
it’s predecessor, it’s still a major tourist draw ESTANCIA AVE MARÍA
(and a fun photo op). Take a taxi or bus 503.
Just a few miles outside of town and
Museo Tradicionalista Fuerte practically next door to Cerro El Cen-
tinela, Estancia Ave María (%0249-
Independencia MUSEUM 442-2843; www.avemariatandil.com.ar;
Paraje La Poteña; d US$270; iWs) is
(%443-5573; 4 de Abril 845; admission AR$20; a wonderfully traditional retreat that
h2:30-6:30pm Tue-Sun Mar-Nov, 4-8pm Tue-Sun travelers rave about. The historic and
Dec-Feb) This historical museum, worth a beautiful 300-hectare estancia offers
walk-through for context, exhibits a large and spacious rooms with views of the hills,
varied collection on Tandil’s history. Photo- and elegant living areas for reading a
graphs commemorate major events, and the book or enjoying afternoon tea. Prices
place is filled with relics – from carriages to include breakfast and dinner, plus activ-
ladies’ gloves – donated by local families. ities such as horseback rides. Be sure to
book ahead: it’s rightfully popular. Th e Pa m pas & th e Atl a nti c C oas t SATaocntuditvihilteirens Pampas
2 Activities
The Lago del Fuerte, only 12 blocks south have been complaining of poor service and
of Plaza de Independencia, is a huge reser- declining standards of cleanliness, so unless
voir that you can easily walk around in a you’re on a tight budget, it’s best to consider
couple of hours. In summer, you can rent other options first.
canoes and kayaks and hang around for
lunch or merienda (afternoon snack with You & Me Apartment BUNGALOW $$
tea, coffee or mate) at one of the restaurants (%444-8669; www.tandiltravel/you-me-apartment.
along the shoreline. htm; cnr Pinto y Buzón; d from US$80; aW)
This adorable two-person bungalow, if you
For details on the plentiful outdoor ac- can manage to snag it, is like having your
tivities around town, including bike rentals,
trekking, canoeing, rappelling, mountain
biking and rock climbing, ask the tourist
office for its comprehensive list of tour op-
erators and rental agencies.
4 Sleeping own private home in Tandil, complete with
a small garden where you can enjoy a lei-
surely breakfast under the trees. Located a
Reservations are a must during summer, few blocks from the bus station on the way
Easter week and holiday weekends. Many into town, it’s lovingly operated and well-
Argentines come here specifically for the equipped with a small kitchen and wi-fi.
experience of staying in one of the many
cabaña (cabin) complexes in the area – many Plaza Hotel HOTEL $$
have terraces, fireplaces and/or swimming (%442-7160; www.plazahoteldetandil.com.ar; Pin-
pools, so they’re great places to unwind. But to 438; s/d from US$84/103; aW) Location,
they’re only convenient if you have a car. The location, location: Tandil’s Plaza Hotel might
following options are in town. not win any awards for cutting-edge design,
Gran Hotel Roma HOTEL $ but it’s comfortable, and prominently situat-
ed right on the main plaza.
(%442-5217; www.hotelromatandil.com.ar; Alem
452; d from US$62; W) The top budget pick in
town, Gran Hotel Roma is bare-bones basic Belgrano 39 B&B B&B $$
(%0249-15-460-7076, 0249-442-6989; hutton@
and showing its age. But it’s tough to top speedy.com.ar; Belgrano 39; r US$80; Ws)
the convenient location only a block from
Tandil’s main plaza, and there’s free wi-fi There’s only room for four people, but this
peaceful B&B, run by a one-of-a-kind British
and a bar downstairs. woman with an encyclopedic knowledge of
Casa Chango HOSTEL $ Tandil, is well worth seeking out. It features
two rooms flanked by a large lovely garden
(%442-2260; www.casa-chango.com.ar; 25 de and pool, with off-street parking available.
Mayo 451; dm/d/tr from US$17/58/88; iW)
The best parts of this hostel are the bright Advance reservations required.
and attractive common areas, including the 5 Eating & Drinking
communal dining room and kitchen, with
colorful tiles, high ceilings and historical Your best bet for a memorable meal in Tandil
charm. Dorms are just so-so, and travelers is to go out for picadas, pack a picnic and go
128
hiking, or relax at one of several restaurants salamis and hams, along with other gourmet
lining the shores of the Lago del Fuerte. regional products. You’ll spot several other
businesses offering similarly tempting
Grill Argentino ARGENTINE $ spreads around town, and most are happy
(Gral Rodríguez 552; mains AR$58-120; hnoon- to offer free samples.
3pm & 8:30pm-midnight) This centrally located,
cavernous dining hall, half a block off the 88 Information
plaza, is popular for its efficient service and
its reasonably priced, abundant servings of There are plenty of banks with ATMs in the
Argentine classics such as milanesas with center.
fries, pasta and steaks. Tourist Office (%444-8698; www.tandil.gov.ar;
Rodríguez 445; h 9am-8pm Mon-Sat, 9am-1pm
Th e Pa m pas & th e Atl a nti c C oas t S ihoeourtprphaiendrgen lPaamVpeanstana oÉpoca de Quesos ARGENTINE $$ Sun) Opposite Tandil’s central plaza. There’s
(www.epocadequesos.com/tandil; cnr San Martín & another branch at the bus terminal.
14 deJulio; picadas for 1/2 people fromAR$160/370,
mains from AR$59; h9am-midnight) This adora- 88 Getting There & Away
bly rustic landmark is an essential stop. The
shop in the front sells a wide variety of local Tandil’s bus terminal (% 432092; Av Buzón
cheeses and cured meats, perfect for a pic- 400) is located 12 blocks east of the main plaza.
nic. It’s wonderfully cozy and atmospheric at Walk or take a taxi (about AR$35) from in front
night, when candlelight casts a warm glow of the terminal.
over the wooden furniture and mismatched
cutlery. It’s the place to be for picadas and Trains from Buenos Aires’ Constitución station
wine on a weekend evening. (primera/Pullman class AR$120/145, seven
hours) arrive at Tandil’s train station, Estación
Tierra de Azafranes INTERNATIONAL $$ Tandil (% 423002; www.ferrobaires.gba.gov.
(%443-6800; www.tierradeazafranes.com.ar; cnr ar), on Tuesday and Friday nights and head back
San Martín & Av Santamarina; mains AR$88-140; on Wednesday and Sunday nights, but double
hnoon-3pm & 8:30pm-midnight Wed-Mon) This check the schedule online, as service can be
popular and smartly decorated restaurant suspended.
Buses from Tandil
is known for its fish, steaks, pastas, risottos DESTINATION COST (AR$) TIME (HR)
and paella, plus special seafood stews in Buenos Aires 320-380 5½
colder weather. There’s a good wine list, too. Córdoba 930-1065 14-15
It’s located between the main plaza and the Mar del Plata 231 3
bus station.
Parrilla El Trébol PARRILLA $$ Mendoza 1050-1200 17
(%444-2333; cnr Mitre & 14 de Julio; mains AR$75- Necochea 146-160 3
145; h8pm-midnight Tue-Fri, noon-midnight Sat,
noon-3pm Sun) This simple parrilla, spe-
cializing in perfectly grilled steaks and top- 88 Getting Around
notch salads, is a locals’ favorite.
Tandil’s excellent public transportation system
Antares BAR (rides AR$7.20) reaches every important sight.
Bus 500 (yellow) goes to Lago del Fuerte, buses
(www.cervezaantares.com; 9 de Julio 758; h7:30pm- 501 (red) and 505 (brown) go to the bus termi-
2am) Belly up to the bar with the locals at nal, and bus 503 (blue) goes to Cerro La Move-
the Tandil branch of this popular chain of diza, the university and the bus terminal.
modern breweries. Sample the goods from
the copper tap cylinders behind the bar, and
come for live music on weekend nights. It’s Sierra de la Ventana
also a great place to grab a bite to eat (mains
AR$60 to AR$120). % 0291 / POP 5000
7 Shopping Sierra de la Ventana is quiet and peaceful,
a getaway for busy bahienses (residents of
Syquet FOOD Bahía Blanca) who roll into town on week-
ends with cars full of kids, dogs and the fix-
(www.syquet.com.ar; cnr Gral Rodríguez & Mitre; ings for a killer asado (barbecue). The main
h9am-1pm & 5-9pm Mon-Fri, 9am-9pm Sat, 10am- attractions are the picturesque hills and the
9pm Sun) This charming corner emporium wealth of outdoor activities in the region:
sells a tantalizing array of local cheeses, hiking up nearby peaks, trout fishing and
129
bathing in the streams and pools, riding on Cabañas Bodensee CABAÑAS $$
horse or bicycle through the hills, and climb- (%0291-491-5356; www.sierrasdelaventana.com.
ing or rappelling among the rocks. ar/bodensee; Rayces 455, Villa La Arcadia; cabaña
for 2/4 people from US$78/97; Ws) This peace-
2 Activities ful complex of cabins, situated around an
appealing swimming pool, is a lovely respite
Lots of outdoor pursuits are on offer in this within easy walking distance of the town
region. You can tackle many on your own. center. Each cabin features a small kitchen
For hiking guides, rappelling, horseback rid- and a porch with a large parrilla. It’s locat-
ing and other tours, stop into the offices of ed in the neighborhood of Villa La Arcadia,
the agencies listed we’ve listed, conveniently just across the river from most of Sierra de
located on Av San Martin. la Ventana’s attractions.
Several small outfitters offer bike rent- Hotel Provincial HOTEL $$ Th e Pa m pas & th e Atl a nti c C oas t AS ioceturitrvhai tedireenslPaamVpeanstana
als. One to try is Rodados El Montañes (%0291-491-5024; www.hotelprovincialsierra.
(%0291-648-0142; cnr Fortín Mercedes & Iguazú ; com; Drago 130; d/tr from US$139/157; aWs)
h9am-1pm & 5-8:30pm Mon-Sat ). A grand old place that’s been recently re
modeled. Guest rooms feel fresh and rela-
On a hot day, the river area behind Ali- tively luxurious, but the real draw are the
huen Hotel is popular for splashing about. public spaces: two swimming pools, a living
Find a quieter stretch of stream by hiking room with a soaring fireplace and views of
down to the edge of Arroyo San Bernardo, the mountains, a modern restaurant, and
located south of Av San Martin, past Hotel a spa. It’s a favorite pick for families and
Provincial, in the area known as Barrio Par-
que Delfino.
T Tours couples alike.
Tierra Ventana ADVENTURE TOUR 5 Eating
(%509-4696; www.tierraventana.com; Av San Some restaurants close one or more days per
Martín s/n; h10am-6pm Mon-Sat) Guided ex- week outside the December to March sum-
cursions on offer include a half-day trek to mer months. Self-caterers will find several
Cerro Ventana, a photo safari to Cerro Tigre, supermarkets and artisanal food shops on
a visit to Parque Provincial Tornquist, and a the main street.
nighttime astronomy tour.
Silver Viajes y Turismo HORSEBACK RIDING 88 Orientation
(Av San Martín 156; h9am-6pm Mon-Sat) Spe- The town is divided into two sections by Río
cializes in horseback riding, but also arrang- Sauce Grande. The main street, Av San Martín,
es hiking trips and 4WD excursions. lies south of the river, as do the bus and train
stops and most other services.
4 Sleeping
88 Information
Book ahead in summer and during long
weekends. The tourist office has an exten- A good resource for information about activities,
sive list of cabañas, some of which are only accommodations, activities and transportation
convenient if you’re arriving in your own in the region is www.sierrasdelaventana.tur.ar
rental car. (in Spanish).
Banco Provincia (San Martín 260) Has ATMs.
Alihuen Hotel HOTEL $$ Tourist Office (% 0291-491-5303; www.sierra
(%0291-491-5074; www.lasierradelaventana.com. delaventana.org.ar; Av del Golf s/n; h 8am-
ar/alihuen; cnr Tornquist & Frontini; d/tr from 8pm) Across the tracks from the train station.
US$81/108; Ws) About four blocks from
the main drag and strategically positioned 88 Getting There & Around
on the banks of the river is this charmingly
antique hotel. It’s not exactly luxurious, with Condor Estrella (% 0291-491-5091; www.
creaky wood floors and simple furnishings, condorestrella.com.ar) has buses to Buenos
but there’s plenty of atmosphere – and plen- Aires (AR$550, nine hours, six times weekly)
ty of outdoor space for relaxing, including and Bahía Blanca (AR$110, 2½ hours, twice
a swimming pool for when the weather’s daily), leaving from a small office on Av San
warm. Martín, a block from the YPF gas station.
Condor Estrella also runs a daily bus between
Sierra de la Ventana and Villa Ventana (AR$30,
20 minutes).
M G THERIN WEISE / GETTY IMAGES ©1 30 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
1. Traditional gaucho ornaments and dagger 2. Horseback riding at
La Candelaria 3. La Candelaria 4. Gaucho preparing mate (a bitter,
tea-like beverage)
LA CANDELARIA / WOW FACTOR ©
131
LA CANDELARIA / WOW FACTOR © Staying on an
Estancia
One of the best ways to enjoy the open
spaces of the pampas is to visit an
estancia (ranch). Argentina’s late-19th-
century belle epoque saw wealthy families
adorn their ranches with lavish homes and
gardens.
Those glorious days being long gone,
many of these establishments are open
to tourists. The día de campo (day in the
country) usually includes a huge asado
(barbecue) with drinks, a tour of the
historic home and use of the property’s
horses, bicycles and swimming pool. Some
places offer a show gauchesco, featuring
folk dances and feats of horsemanship,
while others host polo matches. Estancias
are a sustainable tourism option, helping
to preserve part of the country’s past
while providing an impressive guest-to-
tree ratio. Most offer overnight stays,
which include meals and activities.
CRISTIAN LAZZARI / GETTY IMAGES © Estancia Options
These are all within a few hours’ drive of
Buenos Aires.
Los Dos Hermanos (%011-4723-2880;
www.estancialosdoshermanos.com; día de campo
US$100) This down-to-earth ranch is best
for day trips and horseback riding.
La Candelaria (%02227-494132; www.
estanciacandelaria.com; día de campo from
US$94, d with full board from US$217 ) At
sunset, this extravagant French-style
castle is the ultimate photo op.
Estancia Ave María (p127) A refined
rural getaway outside of Tandil.
Candelaria del Monte (%02271-442-431;
www.candelariadelmonte.com.ar; Ruta 41, San
Miguel del Monte; r with full board per person
US$220; s) Laid-back and elegant, with a
beautiful swimming pool.
Puesto Viejo Estancia (%11 5279-6893;
www.puestoviejoestancia.com.ar; RP 6, Km83,
Cañuelas; día de campo adult/child US$85/43,
r with full board per person US$225; a) Learn
to play polo at this chic ranch and
polo club.
132
The PPaammppaass&&tthheeAtAtl al anntitci cCoCaosatsPtaSGroeqtuutteihnPegrroTnvhPienarcmeipa&alsAErronuenstdo T o r n q u i st VILLA VENTANA
Just 17km northwest of Sierra de la Ventana is the peaceful village of Villa Ventana.
There’s nothing much to do here except wander the dusty streets, which meander
through pretty residential neighborhoods full of pine trees, and investigate the ruins of
South America’s first casino (by guided tour only; see the tourist office (%0291-491-
0095; h8am-6pm Mon-Thu, to 7pm Fri-Sun, to 8pm daily Jan & Feb), located at the town’s
entrance). Villa Ventana is also a closer base than Sierra de la Ventana from which to visit
Parque Provincial Ernesto Tornquist.
There are several places to stay, though none are particularly budget-friendly. A con-
venient option is Cabañas La Ponderosa (%0291-491-5491; www.villalaponderosa.com.
ar; cnr Cruz del Sur & Hornero; cabañas for 1/2/3/4/5 US$85/100/110/130/140; W), diagonal-
ly across from the minibus stop. The complex features well-sized, homey and comfort-
able wood cabañas (cabins), some with a loft and all with a kitchenette. Prices drop on
weekdays and from April to mid-December.
Condor Estrella runs a daily bus between Sierra de la Ventana and Villa Ventana
(AR$30, 20 minutes); you can catch a ride to Parque Provincial Ernesto Tornquist by
catching the same bus (AR$35, 30 minutes) to Tornquist. If the schedule isn’t conven-
ient for your travel plans, you can always take a cab to the park, and arrange a remise
(private taxi) to Sierra de la Ventana. The latter ride costs around AR$150 to AR$200 for
up to three passengers.
Ferrobaires (www.ferrobaires.gba.gov.ar) la Ventana leads to a window-shaped rock
operates a twice-weekly train service to Sierra formation near its peak. The climb offers
de la Ventana on the train line that runs be- dramatic views of surrounding hills and the
tween Bahía Blanca and Buenos Aires (AR$115 distant pampas. Register with rangers be-
to AR$205). fore 11am at the trailhead, and take plenty of
water and sun protection.
If you’re headed to Bahía Blanca, it’s quicker
(and often more convenient) to reserve a ride Less demanding destinations accessible
with Norte Bus (% 0291-15-468-5101) (AR$120, from the Cerro de la Ventana trailhead in-
one hour), a long-distance-van company offering clude Piletones (2½ hours roundtrip) and
door-to-door service. The shuttle leaves Sierra Garganta Olvidada (one hour roundtrip).
de la Ventana two or three times a day; call to To visit the gorge and waterfall pool at Gar-
reserve. ganta del Diablo (six hours roundtrip), you
must go with a tour company.
Parque Provincial
Ernesto Tornquist Condor Estrella (p129) serves Tornquist
from Sierra de la Ventana (AR$40, one hour)
This 67-sq-km park (%491-0039; www.torn twice daily – tell the driver you want to get
quist.gov.ar; adult/child AR$10/4; h8am-5pm off at the park entrance. For better timing,
Dec-Mar, 9am-5pm Apr-Nov), 22km from Sierra to catch the park opening, arrange a remise
de la Ventana, draws visitors from through- (taxi) to the park from Sierra de la Ventana
out the province. There are two entrances. or Villa Ventana.
The first is 5km west of Villa Ventana and
home to the Centro de Visitantes, which Santa Rosa
has a small display on local ecology. The
main hike here is Cerro Bahía Blanca (two % 02954 / POP 103,000
hours roundtrip), offering great views. There
are also Cuevas con Pinturas Repustres, About 600km from Buenos Aires – and a
or cave paintings, but you can only visit long way from pretty much anywhere else –
these with a guided tour, available from var- Santa Rosa is unlikely to be of interest un-
ious agencies around Sierra de la Ventana, less you find yourself traveling overland,
such as Tierra Ventana (p129). in which case it’s a convenient stopping
point and transportation hub. It’s a pleasant
The park’s highlight, however, is at its enough place, however, with a small-town
other entrance, 3km further west. The five- feel, friendly people and busy plaza area.
hour (roundtrip) hike to 1150m Cerro de
1 Sights & Activities 133
88 Getting There & Away
Laguna Don Tomás, surrounded by a park Aerolíneas (% 427588; www.aerolineas.com.
of the same name, is 1km west of the city ar; Pico 267) flies to Buenos Aires. The airport
center. This is the place for locals to sail, is 3km from downtown. A taxi between the
swim, cycle or stroll through an appealing airport and the center costs approximately
network of wooded paths. AR$35.
The bus terminal (Luro 365) is seven blocks
HISTORIC BUILDING east of the plaza. Buses go to Buenos Aires
La Malvina
(%436-555; Parque Don Tomás; hhours vary) (AR$565 to AR$656, eight to 11 hours), but
F On the edge of the laguna, La at the time of research the only way to get to
Malvina – the elegant original estancia of Bahía Blanca was to drive yourself or to take the
Santa Rosa’s founder – has been restored daily door-to-door minibus service (four hours) Th e Pa m pas & th e Atl a nti c C oas t SR ioegsuhettrhsvea&r nPArcPotavimvipni atcisieasl Pa r q u e L u r o
and reopened to the public. Now a mini- offered by Vivian Tours (% 421200; cnr Luro &
museum displaying old photographs of the Rosas; shuttle service AR$330 one-way). Call to
settlement’s early days, it’s worth a walk- reserve; the shuttle leaves Santa Rosa for Bahía
through. If you’re interested in architecture Blanca in the afternoon or early evening.
you’ll enjoy the side-by-side photos show-
ing Santa Rosa’s primary buildings, then For car rentals try Sixt (% 414600; www.sixt.
and now. com.ar; Lisandro de la Torre 96), with downtown
and airport locations and good online rates.
4 Sleeping & Eating Reserva Provincial
Parque Luro
Residencial Atuel HOTEL $
(%422597; www.atuel.aehglp.org.ar; Luro 356; % 02954
s/d/tr US$30/48/60; aW) Just steps from the
bus terminal, this friendly place has worn Home to a mix of introduced and native spe-
but tidy rooms with cable TV. It’s certainly cies, as well as over 150 species of birds, this
convenient, and good enough for one night. 76-sq-km reserve (%452600; www.parqueluro.
tur.ar; Ruta Nacional 35, Km292; admission AR$4,
Hotel Calfucurá HOTEL $$ guided visits at Museo El Caserío & Museo El Cas-
(%433303; www.hotelcalfucura.com; Av San tillo AR$8; h9am-7pm) near Santa Rosa is a
Martín 695; s/d from AR$85/97; aWs) Once peaceful place to spend time away from the
Santa Rosa’s best hotel, Hotel Calfucurá is city. It’s quiet during the week, but gets busy
fraying around the edges. Though the place on weekends when local families bring all
could use an update, guest rooms are com- the fixings for an afternoon asado (barbe-
fortable (the showers in particular are excel- cue) and spend the day here. Avoid Sundays
lent), the pool is a nice perk in hot weather, if you’re hoping to beat the crowds, and be
and the location between the bus terminal sure to bring water and sun protection in
and the main plaza is handy. the baking summer.
La Capital CAFE $ At the turn of the 20th century, Pedro
(cnr 9 de Julio & Avellaneda; mains AR$35-105; Luro, a French-Basque immigrant who
h7:30am-midnight Mon-Sat, 5:30pm-late Sun) fashioned himself into one of Argentina’s
Santa Rosa’s oldest cafe, located in a cool more important landowners, created the
modernist corner building on the main country’s first hunting preserve here. He im-
plaza, is basic but classic. It’s open all day, ported exotic game species, such as red deer
busy at breakfast, and again at lunch, when and European boar, and built an enormous
the menu includes empanadas, pizza, salads French-style mansion to accommodate his
and sandwiches. When the weather’s nice European guests. He later abandoned it
pull up a chair at one of the sidewalk tables as sport hunting fell out of vogue and the
for a cold beer. Europ ean aristocracy suffered the upheavals
of WWI and the Great Depression. The re-
88 Information serve was sold, then neglected, its animals
escaping through the fence or falling victim
You’ll find several ATMs in the city center. to poachers.
Provincial Tourist Office (% 424404; www.
turismolapampa.gov.ar; cnr Luro & San Martín; Since its acquisition by the province in
h7am-9pm Mon-Fri, 9am-1pm & 4-9pm Sat 1965, Parque Luro has served as a refuge for
& Sun) Across from the bus terminal; longer native species such as puma and wild fox,
hours in January and February. along with exotic migratory birds including
flamingo. One of the park’s biggest draws,
134 Th e Pa m pas & th e Atl a nti c C oas t SPaloerueqtpuhienrgNnacPai omnpaalsL i h u é C al e l while birdlife includes the rhea-like ñandú
however, is during the fall mating season of and many birds of prey such as the carancho
the red deer. In March and April the males (crested caracara).
bellow loudly (called ‘la Brama’) to attract
female harems, while scuffling among Lihué Calel receives only about 400mm
themselves. of rainfall per year, but sudden storms can
Hourly tours of the Museo El Castillo create brief waterfalls over granite boulders
(AR$8), Luro’s opulent château-style man- near the visitors center. Even when the sky
sion, offer insight into the luxurious eccen- is cloudless, the subterranean streams in the
tricities that Argentine landowners could valleys nourish the monte (a scrub forest
indulge. As the story goes, Luro was only with a surprising variety of plant species).
able to obtain the gorgeous walnut fireplace Within the park’s 10 sq km exist 345 species
by purchasing an entire Parisian restaurant. of plants, nearly half the total found in the
Besides the museum, there’s the Museo San entire province.
Huberto F with its interesting collec-
tion of early-20th-century horse-drawn car- The most rewarding hike in the area is
riages and Museo El Caserío (AR$8), where the hour-long climb to the 589m peak Cer-
the French painter Tristán Lacroix lived and ro de la Sociedad Científica Argentina;
worked in 1911. watch for flowering cacti such as Trichoce-
The park’s sights are all located around a reus candicans between boulders. From the
6km ring road; nature walks veer off it, so summit there are outstanding views of the
pull over whenever the mood strikes. Reach entire sierra and surrounding marshes and
the visitors center by following the main salt lakes.
road about 2km from the entrance. Bring
your own food, though there’s a small store About 10km by car from the visitors
and a basic restaurant (the latter closed for center is the Casona, the ruins of the old
renovations at the time of research) – and house of former Estancia Santa María. An-
feel free to use the public parrillas, as all other 2km further along, the road peters
the Argentine families do. Campsites and out at the parking lot for the Valle de las
a few nicely outfitted cabañas (sleeping Pinturas, where a 600m trail leads down
up to five) are also available; make contact a rock-strewn valley to some petroglyphs.
through the park’s official website. These same two attractions are accessible to
Parque Luro is 35km south of Santa Rosa. walkers via a 9km footpath from the visitors
From the bus terminal, catch the Dumascat center.
(%437090; www.dumascat.com.ar) bus bound
for General Acha and ask to be dropped off More information is available at the vis-
at the park entrance (AR$12, 30 to 40 min- itors center (open 8am to 6pm). Spring,
utes, several daily), then find out when a bus when flowers are blooming and the temper-
returns to Santa Rosa. Alternatively, rent atures aren’t too hot, is the best time to visit
a car in Santa Rosa, or take a taxi, though the park.
you’ll want to be sure you arrange a pickup
as well. 4 Sleeping
Parque Nacional Lihué Near the visitors center is a comfortable and
Calel free campground with shade trees, firepits
(bring wood or carbon), picnic tables, flush
% 02952 toilets and showers. Stock up on food before
arriving; the nearest decent supplies are at
In the local indigenous language of Pehu the town of Puelches, 32km south.
enche, Lihué Calel means Sierra de la Vida
(Range of Life), and describes a series of 88 Getting There & Away
small, isolated mountain ranges and valleys
that create unique microclimates in a nearly Parque Nacional Lihué Calel is 228km southwest
featureless pampean landscape. of Santa Rosa, and there are no direct buses to
the park. Long-distance buses leaving Santa
This desert-like park (%436595; www. Rosa, and for Neuquén or Bariloche, pass by the
parquesnacionales.gob.ar; h8am-7pm) F is entrance; if you arrange ahead of time with the
a haven for native cats such as puma and driver, it shouldn’t be a problem to get dropped
yagouaroundi. You can spot armadillo, gua- off here (though getting picked up again would
naco, mara (Patagonian hare) and vizcacha, be trickier). But generally speaking, driving
yourself – you can rent a car in Santa Rosa – is
the best way to visit the park.
135
ATLANTIC COAST A few kilometers north of San Clemente Th e Pa m pas & th e Atl a nti c C oas t AStacltnai vCniltteiimce seCnotaestd e l T uy ú
del Tuyú are several protected areas, in-
Argentines can justly claim Latin America’s cluding Reserva Natural Municipal Punta
highest peak (Cerro Aconcagua), its widest Rasa (whose beach is popular with kite-
avenue (Buenos Aires’ 9 de Julio) and per- boarders) and Parque Nacional Campos
haps its coolest capital – among many oth- del Tuyú (home of the rare pampas deer).
er attributes – but its beaches aren’t exactly
something to write home about. Forget the For tamer wildlife (or entertainment for
tropical paradises fringed with palm trees on kids on a rainy day), there’s Mundo Mari-
Brazil’s Atlantic coast: there’s no white sand no (www.mundomarino.com.ar; Av Décima 157;
here, the winds can be fierce, and the water is adult/child under 11yr AR$329/219; h10am-8pm
cloudy rather than turquoise. So it’s no trop- Jan & Feb, 10am-6pm Mar-Dec, weekends only Apr-
ical paradise, although Argentina’s beaches Nov), South America’s largest marine park
are still pleasant enough in summer. Each (although note that it has seal and dolphin
January and February they reliably attract shows, which may concern some visitors –
tens of thousands of people from all over the animal welfare groups claim keeping sea
country. In fact, so many people flock to the mammals in enclosed tanks is harmful for
shore that at times you might have a hard these complex animals). Argentines also
time finding a free spot to spread your towel. come to the area to visit the spa-like recre-
ation center called Termas Marinas (www.
If you want to avoid the crush of sum- termasmarinas.com.ar; Faro San Antonio CC No
mertime crowds, simply visit in the shoul- 9; adult/child under 10yr AR$235/160; h10am-
der months of December and March, when 8pm Jan & Feb, 10am-6pm Mar-Dec), featuring
the weather is still warm enough to enjoy mineral-rich thermal baths where you can
the beaches and their activities. In the dead float and soak all day.
of winter, however, coastal towns here take
on an abandoned feel and the gray weather From San Clemente’s bus terminal (cnr
can be depressing. Mar del Plata is an Avs Naval & Talas del Tuyú), about 25 blocks from
exception – the coast’s largest city is a cul- the town center, frequent buses run to Bue-
tural capital, with plenty to do year-round. nos Aires (AR$319 to AR$364, 4½ hours)
and Pinamar (AR$300, three hours).
Accommodation prices along the coast
vary widely, depending on the season. They Pinamar
rise sharply from mid-December through
February, when reservations are crucial (and % 02254 / POP 25,000
some places require minimum stays). Prices
then start declining in March but rise again Located about 120km up the coast from Mar
during Easter, after which most places close del Plata, Pinamar is a very popular desti-
down until November. At the places that do nation for style-conscious porteños who’d
stay open, bargains can be found during rather not make the trip to the beaches of
these cooler months. From March to Decem- Uruguay. The city was founded and designed
ber, opening hours (especially at tourist of- in 1944 by architect Jorge Bunge, who fig-
fices and restaurants) are much shorter than ured out how to stabilize the shifting dunes
what we’ve listed here. by planting pines, acacias and pampas grass.
It was once the refuge for the country’s up-
San Clemente del Tuyú per echelons, but is now somewhat less ex-
clusive and more laid-back.
% 02252 / POP 12,000
2 Activities
With absolutely none of the glitz or glamour
of the resorts down the coast, family-o riented The main activity in Pinamar is simply re-
San Clemente attracts low-key beachgoers. laxing and socializing on the beach, which
There are reasonably priced accommoda- stretches all the way from north of the town
tions near the waterfront, including Hotel down to Cariló. But the area also offers a
Brisas Marinas (%522219; www.brisas-marinas. wealth of outdoor activities, from wind
com.ar; Calle 13, No 50; d from US$63; W), and surfing and waterskiing to horseback riding
plenty of restaurants on the main drag, Calle and fishing. You can also ride bicycles in
1. The tourist information office (%423249; the wooded areas near the golf course, or
www.sanclementedeltuyu.com.ar; Av Costanera through the leafy streets of nearby Cariló.
btwn Calles 2 & 63; h8am-midnight Jan & Feb,
9am-8pm Mar-Dec) is across from the beach. For bike rentals, try Leo (%488855; Av
Bunge 1111; bike rental per hr AR$50; h9am-9pm),
Th e Pa m pas & th e Atl a nti c C oas t AFPeti nslataminvatairlcsC&o aEsvte nts136
ALONG THE COAST
The destinations we list here are only a sampling of what’s available along this stretch
of Argentina’s Atlantic coast. If you have a rental car, excursions to the following beach
enclaves – particularly popular with Argentine families who have some extra money to
spend – are a snap.
Starting in the north, just south of Pinamar, there are the tranquil and largely residen
tial villages of Ostende and Valeria. Further down the coast is woodsy Cariló, a
favorite of well-off Argentines. It’s a worthwhile detour at night for its fashionable restau-
rants or for a stroll under the trees, ice-cream cone in hand.
On the other side of Villa Gesell, continuing down the coast, are Mar de las Pampas
and Mar Azul, exclusive beach neighborhoods with expensive lodging (rented only by
the week in summer) and upscale services, all dropped into a pine forest. The beach here
is less crowded, too, making the area a good day-trip destination, even if you’re staying in
busier Villa Gesell.
on the main street near the tourist office. If is modern but warm; guest rooms are small
you want to learn how to kiteboard, go to but comfortable, and some have sea views.
Sport Beach, the last balneario (river beach)
located about 5km north of Av Bunge. There La Vieja Hostería BOUTIQUE HOTEL $$$
are many more options for activities – ask at (%482804; www.laviejahosteria.com.ar; Del Tuyú
the tourist office. 169; d from US$132; aWs) In a beautifully
remodeled 1940s house, Pinamar’s nicest
z Festivals & Events boutique hotel has elegantly appointed
rooms, inviting common areas (including
Pinamar’s film festival, Pantalla Pinamar a poolside deck and a patio with massage
(www.pantallapinamar.gov.ar), takes place in tents) and a perfect location, just south of
March, and there are concerts and parties the main street and two blocks in from the
on the beach around New Year. beach.
4 Sleeping 5 Eating
Reservations are a must in January, when Countless restaurants and food stands line
some places have a one-week minimum stay. the beachfront and Av Bunge; wander onto
Best options for the budget-minded are near the side streets to find better deals (and few-
the southern beaches of Ostende and Val er crowds).
eria, though you’ll also find some cheaper
hotels and hospedajes (family homes) along oTante INTERNATIONAL $$
Calle del Cangrejo, north of the tourist office. (De las Artes 35; mains AR$55-175; hnoon-
Cabañas Pinaforet CABAÑAS $$ midnight) This elegant tearoom, restaurant
and bar – a few blocks in from the beach,
(%02254-409277; www.pinaforet.com.ar; cnr Apolo just off Av Bunge – was once the home of
& Jason; per week Jan & Feb from US$1290; aW)
This sweet cluster of five spacious log cab- a well-known 1950s soprano. Nowadays it
serves up German, French and alpine spe-
ins set among piney grounds is only a few cialties such as fondue, crepes, goulash,
paces from the bus terminal, within a few
minutes’ walk of the town center and beach. wurst and sauerkraut. Afternoon teas are a
delight. There’s a second location in Cariló.
Each sleeps up to four people, making this a
great budget option in low season (despite
the high weekly prices quoted in summer). Los Troncos ARGENTINE $$
(cnr Eneas & Lenguado; mains AR$45-130; hnoon-
Contact them for the low-season rates. 3pm & 8pm-midnight Thu-Tue) In business for
Hotel Mojomar HOTEL $$ four decades, this beloved backstreet eatery
is often packed with locals even in low sea-
(%02254-407300; www.hotelmojomar.com.ar; De son. There’s a casual but convivial old-school
las Burriquetas 247; d from US$107; aW) The
Mojomar is upscale, if not luxurious, with ambience, and the menu includes everything
from roast meats to seafood stews to home-
a great location three blocks off Av Bunge, made pastas, all done to perfection.
and only a block from the beach. The look
137
Jalisco MEXICAN $$ long before high-rise vacation shares began
(www.jalisco.com.ar; Bunge 456; mains AR$120- their malignant growth and the trees started
150; h1-3:30pm & 7:30pm-1:30am) At this to disappear.
popular Tex-Mex eatery on Pinamar’s main
street, the fun begins at the entryway, 1 Sights & Activities
adorned with cactus-shaped lamps and
papel picado (colorful Mexican-style paper Feria Artesanal MARKET
cutouts). Menu choices range from fajitas (Crafts Fair; Av 3 btwn Paseos 112 & 113) There’s a
nightly handicrafts fair from mid-D ecember
and quesadillas to pasta and seafood dishes. to mid-March. Expect lots of handmade
There’s a second location in Cariló.
jewelry, carved wood, paintings and souve-
nirs. The rest of the year it’s a weekend-only
Cantina Tulumei SEAFOOD $$ event.
(Bunge 64; mains AR$60-160; hnoon-4pm & 8pm-
1am) Hit the outdoor deck at this main-street Th e Pa m pas & th e Atl a nti c C oas t AVInti lflloaarnmtGaiectsieColonlast
eatery, one block in from the waterfront, for Muelle de Pesca FISHING
reasonably priced, quality seafood. Fish is (Playa & Paseo 129) Gesell’s 15m fishing pier
offers year-round fishing for mackerel, rays,
prepared in at least a dozen different sauc- shark and other marine species. It’s located
es; homemade pastas are also a good choice.
south of the town center.
88 Information Windy Playa Bar SURFING
Municipal Tourist Office (% 491680; www. (www.windyplayabar.com.ar; cnr Paseo 104 & beach;
pinamar.tur.ar; cnr Av Bunge & Shaw; h 8am- h8am-dusk in summer) You can’t miss it: just
8pm Mon-Fri, 10am-8pm Sat, 10am-5pm Sun) look for the faux pirate ship parked on the
sand. At Windy, you can rent surf gear or
sign up for lessons; the beach bar is also
88 Getting There & Away one-stop shopping for renting beach equip-
ment or just grabbing some cold drinks and
Pinamar’s bus terminal (% 403500; Jason sandwiches with a view.
2250) is about eight blocks north of the town
center, just off Av Bunge. Destinations include Casa Macca BICYCLE RENTAL
Buenos Aires (AR$350, five hours) and Mar del
Plata (AR$152, 2½ hours). (Av Buenos Aires 449; per hr AR$50) For bicycle
rentals, try Casa Macca. It’s located between
There are frequent buses to nearby Villa Gesell Paseo 101 and Av 5.
(AR$45, 30 minutes). For the southern beaches
of Ostende, Valeria del Mar and Cariló, catch 4 Sleeping
a Montemar local bus just outside the long-
distance terminal. La Deseada Hostel HOSTEL $
(%02255-473276; www.ladeseadahostel.com.ar;
cnr Av 6 & Paseo 119; dm/d from US$35/75; iW)
Villa Gesell Teeming with young Argentines in Janua ry,
but tranquil in the off season, this ultra
% 02255 / POP 30,000 homey hostel sits atop a sloping, evergreen-
fringed lawn in a residential area between
Smaller and less flashy than its neighbors the bus terminal and the center, six blocks
Pinamar and Mar del Plata, laid-back Villa from the beach. Eight-bed dorms, plus pri-
Gesell is still a hit with the younger crowd. vate rooms (only available outside high
Uniquely for the coastal towns, it offers a season), are complemented by spacious
wood-planked beach boardwalk, making common areas and a nice guest kitchen.
walks along the sands much easier. It’s also Breakfast is served till 1pm.
known for summer choral performances
and rock and folk concerts, and there are Medamar Playa Hotel HOTEL $$
plenty of outdoor activities to enjoy. The (%02255-463106; www.medamarplaya.com; cnr
town is compact, with most services located Costanera & Paseo 111; s/d from US$79/92; Ws)
on its main drag, Av 3, three blocks in from This boxy green-and-white beachfront hotel
the beach. is dated, but service is friendly and the loca-
tion can’t be beat. Outside of busy summer-
In the 1930s, merchant, inventor and na- time it’s worth trying for one of the rooms
ture lover Carlos Gesell designed this resort with a private balcony facing the ocean and
of zigzag streets, planting acacias, poplars, the tiny swimming pool.
oaks and pines to stabilize the shifting
dunes. Though he envisioned a town merg-
ing with the forest he had created, it wasn’t
138
Hotel de la Plaza HOTEL $$ located in the center. There’s another branch at
(%02255-468793; www.delaplazahotel.com; Av the bus terminal (corner of Av 3 and Paseo 140;
2, No 375; d/tr from US$100/140 ) Centrally open from 5am to midnight mid-December to
located between the beach and Villa Ge- Easter, 8am to 8pm during the rest of the year).
sell’s commercial center, this tidy hotel is
professionally run and open 365 days of 88 Getting There & Away
the year – a great pick if you happen to be
passing through out of season. Several res- The bus terminal (cnr Av 3 & Paseo 140) is 30
taurants are located less than a block away. blocks south of the town center. Destinations in-
clude Buenos Aires (AR$424, 5½ hours) and Mar
5 Eating & Drinking del Plata (AR$125, two hours). You can buy bus
tickets in the town center at Central de Pasajes
Th e Pa m pas & th e Atl a nti c C oas t MEAatatlrai ndngte li&cPDClraoitanaskti ng Rancho Hambre EMPANADAS $ (% 472480; cnr Av 3 & Paseo 107), saving you
(Av 3, No 871; empanadas AR$15, pizzas AR$90-180; a trip to the terminal. You’ll have to buy tickets
hnoon-3pm & 7:30pm-late, closed Sun lunch & all for more local destinations, such as Pinamar
day Wed) This main street hot-spot features (AR$45, 30 minutes), at the station.
36 varieties of empanadas, from the humble
(minced beef) to the more elaborate (aru- During summer only, Sol (p145) flies to
gula, parmesan and walnuts, or bacon with Buenos Aires.
mozzarella and muscat-infused prunes).
Pick up a dozen to go, or stick around and Local buses into town (AR$6, 15 minutes)
order a pizza. There’s a second location on leave regularly from a shelter just across Av 3
the corner of Av 3 and Paseo 125. from the long-distance terminal, or you can grab
a taxi.
El Viejo Hobbit PUB FOOD $$
(Av 8 btwn Paseos 11 & 12; snacks AR$60-110, fon- Mar del Plata
due AR$200-340; h6pm-late Fri & Sat Apr-Nov,
daily Dec-Mar) An obligatory stop for beer % 0223 / POP 614,000
lovers and Tolkien fans, this whimsical
backstreet bar plunges you straight into Turn on the TV, anywhere in Argentina,
Hobbit-land from the minute you pass on a summer morning: you’ll see the sun-
through the round front door. Several beers drenched shores of Mar del Plata and hear
brewed on-site complement a menu focused the newscasters’ latest reports on the temper-
on fondue. There’s a cozy 2nd floor, plus a atures of air and ocean. ‘Mardel’ is the classic
backyard with a miniature Hobbit house for Argentine beach destination, 400km down
kids to play in. the coast from the capital city. It’s popular
with people from all over the country – a little
La Delfina PARRILLA $$ too popular, in fact. If you end up here on a
(cnr Paseo 104 & Av 2; mains AR$80-125; hnoon- summer weekend, you’ll be guaranteed to say
3pm & 8pm-midnight) A huge menu means ‘Wow, this beach is crowded.’ There might be a
there’s something for everyone at this popu- couple of places where you could get in a few
lar parrilla, from steaks, pastas, and salads swimming strokes without taking somebody’s
to desserts and a lengthy wine list. Right on eye out, but mostly it’s shoulder-to-shoulder
the main drag, it’s easy to find. bodies: not exactly a relaxing getaway.
Sutton 212 INTERNATIONAL $$ After spending a few days on its comically
(%460674; cnr Paseo 105 & Av 2; mains AR$70- packed sands, watching street performers
140; h5pm-dawn) This lively restaurant, with on the beachside Plaza Colón or exploring
ample outdoor deck seating, serves dishes the wonders of the port, however, you might
ranging from Mediterranean to Asian fu- get the sense of adoration that the country
sion, along with gourmet crepes, sushi and feels for this place. Mar del Plata has historic
sandwiches. DJs and live music keep things charm: it used to be a glamorous seaside re-
buzzing later in the evening, when the place sort in the 1920s and ’30s, a fact you’ll notice
becomes a happening bar. in the elegant architecture and the antique
photos displayed everywhere in town, from
88 Information hotel lobbies to cafes to postcards.
Tourist Office (% 478042; www.turismo.gesell. If you’re here during the week, and espe-
gob.ar; Paseo 107 btwn Avs 2 & 3; h 8am-8pm cially outside of summer, you’ll really start
Mar-Dec, to midnight Jan & Feb) Conveniently to get the appeal of the place. The crowds
disperse, hotel prices drop and the place
takes on a more relaxed feel. Out-of-season
visitors will find that Mardel is a large and
interesting city with plenty of cultural at-
139
tractions, many of them connected by the some of which now house museums and
pedestrian thoroughfares of downtown or cultural spaces. About 10 blocks inland,
the oceanfront promenade that winds along you’ll find Barrio Los Troncos, a fashion-
the high cliffs of the city’s curving coastline. able neighborhood for shopping, dining and
bar-hopping.
History
oPuerto Mar del Plata PORT
Europeans were slow to occupy this stretch of
the coast, so Mardel was a late bloomer. Not (www.puertomardelplata.net) Mar del Plata is
until 1747 did Jesuit missionaries try to evan- one of Argentina’s most important fishing
gelize the indigenous people of the southern centers. Its port area, 8km south of the city
pampas; the only reminder of their efforts is center, is worth a visit, though public access
a chapel replica near Laguna de los Padres. to the jetty – and its graveyard of ruined
ships, half-sunken and rusting in the sun – is
More than a century later, Portuguese in- now restricted. You can still watch the fish- Th e Pa m pas & th e Atl a nti c C oas t SAMtiaglrhatdnste li cPClaotaast
vestors established El Puerto de Laguna de ing boats come and go from the Banquina
los Padres. Beset by economic problems in de Pescadores, the port’s scenic and slight-
the 1860s, they sold out to Patricio Peralta ly touristy wharf. Grab some calamari and a
Ramos, who founded Mar del Plata proper beer here while you’re at it.
in 1874. Peralta Ramos helped develop the To get to the port from downtown, you
area as a commercial and industrial center, have two options. You can take local bus 511
and later as a beach resort. By the turn of the (which stops at various points downtown
20th century, many wealthy porteño fami- and along the oceanfront road) all the way
lies owned summer houses, some of which to the wharf (AR$6). You’ll need a magnetic
still grace Barrio Los Troncos. card to board. A taxi from downtown costs
between AR$80 and AR$120. If you’re going
Since the 1960s the ‘Pearl of the Atlantic’ by taxi, consider arranging your return, as
has lost some of its exclusivity, with the Ar- it’s not easy to flag a taxi heading the other
gentine elite seeking refuge in resorts such way. Note that the wharf mentioned here is
as nearby Pinamar or Punta del Este (Uru- not to be confused with the Centro Comer-
guay). Still, Mar del Plata remains a thriving cial de Mar del Plata, a cluster of high-end
Argentine beach town. As a local taxi driver restaurants located near the entrance to the
recently explained to us, ‘there’s enough ho- larger port complex.
tel rooms for everyone, and if it rains, there’s
a lot to see and do aside from the beach.’ oTorreón del Monje HISTORIC BUILDING
1 Sights (%0223-486-4000; www.torreondelmonje.com.ar;
cnr Viamonte & Paseo Jesús de Galindez) Grand
For a look at Mar del Plata’s golden age, and castle-like, positioned on a cliff over the
go for a stroll down Avenida Alvear: you’ll ocean, Torreón del Monje is hard to miss –
see some of the city’s finest old mansions,
LITERARY LADY OF LA PLATA
She was ‘the most beautiful cow in the pampas’ according to French novelist Pierre
Drieu, and Jorge Luis Borges called her ‘the most Argentine of women.’ In the 1920s and
1930s, Victoria Ocampo gathered writers and intellectuals from around the globe to her
home, Villa Victoria, creating a formidable literary and artistic salon.
Ocampo never went to university, but her voracious appetite for knowledge and love
of literature led her to become Argentina’s leading lady of letters. She founded the liter-
ary magazine Sur, which introduced writers such as Virginia Woolf and TS Eliot to Argen-
tine readers. She was also an inexhaustible traveler and a pioneering feminist, and was
loathed for her lack of convention. A ferocious opponent of Peronism, chiefly because of
Perón’s interference with intellectual freedom, Ocampo was arrested at Villa Victoria at
the age of 63. She entertained her fellow inmates by reading aloud and acting out scenes
from novels and cinema.
If Victoria is remembered as a lively essayist and great patron of writers, her younger
sister, Silvina, was the literary talent, writing both short stories and poetry. Silvina won
several literary prizes for her works, and in 1940 married Adolfo Bioy Casares, a famous
Argentine writer and friend of Jorge Luis Borges.
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141
Mar del Plata its paintings, photographs and sculptures by
Argentine artists.
æ Top Sights
1 Torreón del Monje.................................D5 Centro Cultural Villa
æ Sights Victoria CULTURAL CENTER
2 Catedral de los Santos Pedro y
Cecilia ..................................................B3 (%492-0569; www.mardelplata.gob.ar; Matheu
3 Centro Cultural Villa Victoria...............A7 1851; admission AR$20; h2-8pm Wed-Mon) Vic-
4 Museo Municipal de Arte Juan toria Ocampo (p139), founder of the liter-
Carlos Castagnino .............................D5 ary journal Sur, hosted literary salons with
5 Torre Tanque........................................ D6 prominent intellectuals from around the
world – Borges, Le Corbusier, and Rabin
Ø Activities, Courses & Tours dranath Tagore were among more distin-
6 Acción Directa ....................................... A1 guished guests – here at her summer chalet.
7 Bicicletería Madrid................................A4 It’s now a cultural center that features Th e Pa m pas & th e Atl a nti c C oas t MBAtealaracdnhteeliscPClaotaast
changing art and cultural exhibitions, plus
ÿ Sleeping live music, poetry readings and yoga classes.
8 Che Lagarto Hostel.............................. C6
9 Hotel 15 de Mayo...................................B2 Catedral de los Santos
10 Hotel Sirenuse...................................... D6
11 Villa Nuccia ........................................... D6 Pedro y Cecilia CHURCH
ú Eating (www.catedralmardelplata.org.ar; Plaza San Martín;
12 Alito.........................................................C5 h8am-8pm) Facing the leafy Plaza San
13 El Bodegón.............................................A3 Martín, this neo-Gothic building features
14 Espigón de Pescadores........................C3 gorgeous stained glass, an impressive cen-
15 La Fonte D'Oro ......................................B3 tral chandelier from France, English tiled
16 Montecatini............................................B2 floors and occasional choral concerts.
17 Sur ..........................................................A5
18 Tisiano ....................................................C7 Torre Tanque TOWER
û Drinking & Nightlife (%451-4681; Falucho 995; h8am-5pm Mon-Fri,
19 Almacén Estación Central .................. C6 2-5pm holiday weekends) F This interest-
20 Antares.................................................. C6 ing medieval-style water-storage tower, atop
21 La Bodeguita del Medio ...................... C6 Stella Maris hill, was finished in 1943 and is
still functioning. It offers spectacular views
þ Shopping over Mar del Plata and further out to sea.
22 Diagonal de los Artesanos ...................B3 Free guided tours (in Spanish) are available
23 Mercado de Pulgas ...............................A2 at 2:30pm, 3:30pm and 4:30pm.
Aquarium Mar del Plata AQUARIUM
(%0223-467-0700; www.aquarium.com.ar; Av
Martínez de Hoz 5600; adult/3-10yr AR$299/225;
look for the red domes and the stone foot- h10am-8:30pm daily Jan & Feb, to 7pm daily Dec &
bridge straddling the oceanfront road. This Mar,to 6pm Sat & Sun onlyApr-Nov) Located 14km
classic landmark is a throwback to Mar del south of the center, near the lighthouse, is
Plata’s glamorous heyday. The Argentine Mar del Plata’s aquarium. Animals on dis-
businessman Ernestro Tornquist, intent on play include penguins, flamingos, crocodiles
beautifying the area around his own sum- and lots of fish. There are sea-lion, dolphin
mer getaway, had the medieval-style lookout and waterskiing shows, along with a cin-
tower built in 1904. Stop for the view, and ema. Those concerned with the welfare of
perhaps a coffee break on the terrace. sea mammals should be aware that keeping
them in enclosed tanks or swimming with
Though the on-site cafe and restaurant them in the wild is considered by some to
only gets mixed reviews, it’s a good place to be disruptive to the behavior of the animals
stop for a drink.
Museo Municipal de Arte and their habitats.
You can also swim with sharks and other
Juan Carlos Castagnino MUSEUM watery creatures and sit on the beach.
(%486-1636; www.mardelplata.gob.ar; Av Colón
1189; admission AR$10; h2-8pm Mon & Wed-Fri,
3-8pm Sat & Sun) Built in 1909 as the summer r Beaches
residence of a prominent Argentine family, Mar del Plata’s beaches are mostly safe and
the turreted Villa Ortiz Basualdo now hous- swimmable. Downtown faces onto the most
es this fine arts museum; its interior exhib- central beach, Playa Bristol, with its wharf
142 Th e Pa m pas & th e Atl a nti c C oas t AMtcaltrai vdnitetliicePsClaotaast just north of Playa Grande, is a good spot to
and restaurant; the boardwalk here, next to try, as are the two breakwaters – Escolle-
the casino area, is always packed with activ- ra Norte and Escollera Sur – at the port.
ity. The next beach to the north is Playa La Freshwater fishing is popular at Laguna de
Perla, favored by a younger crowd and filled los Padres, while Mako Team (%493-5338;
with balnearios (bathing resorts, or sections www.makoteam.com.ar) offers ocean fishing
of beach with services such as beach chairs excursions.
and parasols). To the south of Punta Piedras
are Playa Varese and Cabo Corrientes, a The rocky cliffs by the sea and the hills
pair of small beaches that are protected by of Sierra de los Padres make for excellent
small rocky headlands. climbing and rappelling. Acción Directa
South of these beaches, at the more fash- (%0223-474-4520; www.acciondirecta.com.ar; Av
ionable end of town, lies Playa Grande, also Libertad 3902; h10am-1pm & 5-9pm Mon-Fri,
crowded with balnearios. About 11km south 10am-1pm Sat) runs a school – it also offers
of the center, just past the port, you’ll find mountain biking, canoeing and overnight
the huge Punta Mogotes complex – slightly active camping trips.
more relaxed and favored by families, who
fill the balnearios to overflowing in January. T Tours
This is also the location of Playa Waikiki, a
popular spot for surfing. Crucero Anamora BOAT TOUR
Beyond the lighthouse is a less urbanized
area. Though the beaches here are still filled (%489-0310; www.cruceroanamora.com.ar; adult/
with yet more balnearios in the summer, child under 10yr AR$220/150) This 30m boat
they’re a quieter option. And for the ad- offers harbor tours four times daily in sum-
venturous, there’s Playa Escondida, some mer and twice daily on weekends in winter
25km south of Mardel, which claims to be from Dársena B at the port – just past the
Argentina’s only legal nude beach. Bus 221 Banquina Pescadores at the Puerto Mar del
gets you there. Plata (p139).
2 Activities z Festivals & Events
Mar del Plata and its surrounds offer plenty The city’s International Film Festival (www.
of opportunities to enjoy outdoor activities mardelplatafilmfest.com) takes place in Novem-
and adventure sports. ber. Launched in 1950, it’s considered South
America’s most important film festival.
Biking is a good way to get around
town – just remember that the city is hilly! In January Mar del Plata also celebrates
The streets of Los Troncos are relatively Fiesta Nacional de los Pescadores (Fisher
calm and pleasant for cycling. Rent bicy- man’s Festival; www.patronespescadores.com.ar),
cles at a classic stand: Bicicletería Madrid which sees locals cooking up seafood feasts,
(%0223-494-1932; Yrigoyen 2249; per hr from along with a traditional procession.
AR$45; h9am-7pm Mon-Fri, 10am-7pm Sat & Sun)
has been in operation on Plaza Mitre for Another large celebration is February’s
more than six decades. Fiesta Nacional del Mar (National Sea Festi-
val; www.mardelplata.com/fiesta-nacional-del-mar.
Surf is best in March or April. Kikiwai html), which includes the election and coro-
Surf School (%0223-485-0669; www.clubde nation of a ‘Sea Queen.’
surfkikiwai.wix.com/kikiwaisurfclub; Av Mart ínez
de Hoz 4100, Playa Kikiwai; 1-day class per person 4 Sleeping
AR$450), run by surf pioneer Daniel Gil,
offers surfing classes and rents boards; Prices start climbing in November and De-
find it at Waikiki beach (about 11km cember, peak in January and February, then
south of center). You can also rent boards drop off in March. Reserve ahead in sum-
(AR$100/260 per hour/day) and gear and mer. In the off-season some accommoda-
arrange lessons at other surf outfitters tions close their doors.
around town. Visit www.mardelplata.com/
tour/surf.html for more information in Eng- Mar del Plata’s crowded campgrounds are
lish on surf breaks and conditions. mostly south of town; the tourist office pro-
vides information about their facilities.
As the sea lions attest, Mar del Plata is
one of the best spots for fishing in Argenti- Che Lagarto Hostel HOSTEL $
na. The rocky outcrop at Cabo Corrientes, (%0223-451-3704; www.chelagarto.com; Alberti
1565; dm/d from US$19/65; iW) This popu-
lar branch of the Che Lagarto chain pretty
much has it all: friendly staff, a central lo-
143
MAR CHIQUITA Th e Pa m pas & th e Atl a nti c C oas t EAMatatlrai ndngte li cPClaotaast
A humble and windy little gem, the beach village of Mar Chiquita is home to Albúfera
Mar Chiquita (www.reservamarchiquita.com.ar), a 35km-long lagoon with an impressive
range of wildlife. The word albúfera comes from the Arabic phrase ‘al-buhayra,’ or ‘the
small sea’ – which is, of course, also the meaning of the name ‘Mar Chiquita.’
The lagoon is a special body of water. Fed by creeks from the Sierras de Tandil and
sheltered by a chain of sand dunes, the lagoon alternately drains into the ocean or ab-
sorbs seawater, depending on the tides. This creates a unique ecosystem boasting huge
biodiversity, and is the only lagoon of its kind in Argentina.
The spot is a paradise for bird-watchers, with over 220 species of birds, 86 of which
are migratory, including flamingos. There are also over 55 fish species in the lagoon,
making it a popular spot to cast a line into the water. The beach is popular for windsurf-
ing and kiteboarding – or just hanging out for a while.
The visitors center (%0223-469-1288; [email protected]; cnr Belgrano
& Rivera del Sol; h9am-8pm Dec-Easter, 9am-4pm Mon-Fri & 10am-6pm Sat & Sun rest of year)
is beside the lagoon, a few blocks inland from the beach. Between December and March
they can help arrange accommodations – there are several basic hosterías in town –
and tours of the lagoon. Bring cash, as the closest ATM is 4km away in Mar de Cabo.
Mar Chiquita is 34km north of Mar del Plata. It’s easiest to visit in a car, but if you’re
willing to try the public transport system, Rápido del Sud (%0223-494-2507; www.
el-rapido.com.ar) runs frequent buses that can drop you at the highway roundabout
2.5km outside Mar Chiquita (AR$30, 45 minutes). For transport into town, your best bet
is a taxi or local bus 221 from Mar del Plata (AR$8 to AR$12, 1½ hours, every two hours
in summer, every four hours the rest of the year); it goes all the way to the beach and the
lagoon’s edge.
cation close to Mardel’s best nightlife and Hotel Sirenuse HOTEL $$
shopping, and squeaky clean (fan-cooled) (%0223-451-9580; www.hotelsirenuse.com.ar;
private rooms and dorms. There’s also a Mendoza 2240; d from US$82; aiW) Friendly,
guest kitchen and a pleasant living area and family-run and wonderfully cozy, this
cocktail bar. There’s free wi-fi in the public small hotel on Stella Maris hill, just a few
areas. blocks from Playa Varese, is one of Mardel’s
best-value choices. With dark wood furnish-
oVilla Nuccia GUESTHOUSE $$ ings and a hearty breakfast, the place feels
(%0223-451-6593; www.villanuccia.com.ar; Almi-
rante Brown 1134; d from US$134; aiWs) This more like a mountain lodge than a beach
getaway. Travelers rave about the kind own-
beautiful guesthouse offers a small range of ers; you’ll need to book well ahead.
elegant and spacious rooms. Some are in a
renovated house, others are in a modern an- El Aleph Hotel Boutique GUESTHOUSE $$$
(%451-4380; www.elalephmdq.com.ar; LN Alem
nex; all are individually decorated. There’s 2542; d from US$155; aiWs) Located on a
a rear garden with a swimming pool and
Jacuzzi, and guests rave about the breakfast residential street a couple of blocks south of
Playa Varese, this upscale guesthouse con-
and afternoon tea, both featuring home- siders itself Mar del Plata’s first boutique
made cakes.
hotel. El Aleph features decorated rooms set
Hotel 15 de Mayo HOTEL $$ around a grassy yard with small pool. Amen-
(%0223-495-1388; www.hotel15demayo.com; Mi-
tre 1457; s/d from US$68/98; aW) Convenient- ities include spacious bathrooms, plasma
TVs, afternoon tea and a great breakfast buf-
ly located between Plaza San Martín and La fet. The atmosphere is exclusive but relaxed.
Perla beach, this modern hotel is great value
for its guest rooms (on the small side, but 5 Eating
spotless, with flat-screen TVs), professional
service, breakfast buffet and fast wi-fi. Mar del Plata’s numerous restaurants, piz-
zerias and snack bars often struggle to keep
up with impatient crowds between Decem-
ber and March; there are always long lines.
144 & Sun) Tucked into a back patio off a busy
For fresh seafood, head south of town to street in trendy Barrio Los Troncos, Tisiano
is one of the locals’ top picks for fresh pasta.
the port. At the entrance, just off the busy Dishes prepared with seafood, like shrimp
oceanfront road, you’ll see a large cluster of linguine, are particularly good, as is the
seafood restaurants surrounding a parking range of gourmet salads. After dinner, wan-
lot. This area is known as the Centro Com- der around the neighborhood; it’s filled with
ercial del Puerto. bars and pubs.
And for a glimpse at one of the city’s more Taberna Baska SPANISH $$
stylish neighborhoods, head inland along (%480-0209; www.tabernabaska.wix.com/mardel
Avenida Alvear to Barrio Los Troncos. The plata; 12 de Octubre 3301; mains AR$85-210;
upscale barrio is filled with adorable cafes,
bars and restaurants.
Th e Pa m pas & th e Atl a nti c C oas t EAMatatlrai ndngte li cPClaotaast La Fonte D’Oro CAFE $ hnoon-3pm Tue-Sun, 8:30pm-midnight Tue-Sat)
A few blocks inland from the port, this re-
(cnr Córdoba & San Martín; snacks AR$15-45; nowned Basque restaurant is a local classic.
h8am-late) This stylish cafe has several loca-
tions in town; one of the nicest is on the ped Checkered tablecloths and dignified wait-
ers give it an old-school atmosphere that
estrian promenade of San Martín, near the complements traditional dishes like garlic
cathedral. Have a quick cortado at the curv-
ing coffee bar, or grab an outdoor table and shrimp, mixed seafood stews, paella, pulpo
(octopus), bacalao (cod) and fish in seven
order a freshly baked pastry or a slice of choc- different sauces.
olate cake while you watch the world go by.
Montecatini ARGENTINE $ La Marina SEAFOOD $$
(%489-9216; 12 de Octubre 3147; mains AR$75-
(cnr La Rioja & 25 de Mayo; mains AR$52-120; 180; hnoon-4pm & 8pm-midnight Thu-Mon, noon-
hnoon-3pm & 8pm-midnight; c) For solid,
good-value dishes, make like the locals and 4pm Tue) You won’t find seafood any fresher
or more affordable than at this down-to-
head to this large, modern and popular earth place a few blocks inland from the
restaurant – one of four branches in town.
There’s something for everyone on the menu entrance to the port. In business since 1957,
its specialties range from crispy rabas (fried
(meat, fish, pasta, milanesas, sandwiches) squid rings) to the delicious cazuela espe-
and portions are generous. The weekday
lunch special (AR$110, including dessert cial La Marina, a seafood stew packed with
fish, shrimp, squid and mussels simmered in
and a drink) is a steal. Good for families and white wine, cream and saffron.
large groups.
El Bodegón ARGENTINE $ Alito ARGENTINE $$
(%492-1741; www.alitomdp.com.ar; Blvd Maríti-
(La Rioja 2068; mains AR$75-150) Thanks to a re- mo, cnr Las Heras & La Costa; mains AR$83-199;
cent change in ownership, there’s a youthful
crowd and free-flowing cerveza at this styl- hnoon-3:30pm & 7:30pm-midnight; v) With
indoor and outdoor seating across from the
ish pub and parrilla. On weekdays, there waterfront near Plaza Colón, Alito is popular
are great-value set menus at both lunch and
dinner (AR$120 to AR$150). It’s convenient- for its central location, wide-ranging menu
and well-priced daily specials. Salads, grilled
ly located in the center, a quick walk from fish, seafood pastas, wok-style stir-fries and
either Plaza Mitre or Plaza San Martin.
steaks are all popular options; there’s also a
oSur full wine list and a special list of postres he-
SEAFOOD $$
(%0223-493-6260; Alvarado 2763; mains AR$95-
250; h8pm-midnight) The hype around Sur lados (ice-cream desserts.) Reserve online.
creates high expectations: many locals con- Espigón de Pescadores SEAFOOD $$
(%493-1713; www.espigondepescadores.com.ar;
sider it the best seafood restaurant in town. Blvd Marítimo &Av Luro; mainsAR$55-168; hnoon-
Brick walls hung with nautical-themed
prints form a cozy backdrop; specials all re- 3pm & 8pm-midnight) Located out on the fish-
ing pier, this seafood restaurant offers great
volve around fresh fish and shellfish. There’s water views – especially from its 2nd floor
also an extensive wine list and famously de-
licious desserts. (open in summer only). The menu runs
through typical Mardel offerings of meat,
pasta and seafood, but the food is nothing
Tisiano ITALIAN $$
(%486-3473; San Lorenzo 1332; mains AR$90- remarkable; you’re here for the experience
160; h8pm-late Mon-Fri, noon-3pm & 8pm-late Sat of dining on the pier.
6 Drinking & Nightlife 145
The following venues are located in chic Mercado de Pulgas MARKET
Barrio Los Troncos and the area along
Irigoyen and LN Alem, between Almafuerte (Plaza Rocha; h11am-7pm Thu-Sun mid-Dec–late
and Rodríguez Peña, a section of the city Feb, 11am-6pm Sat & Sun Mar-Nov) This relaxed
that’s thick with cocktail bars and nightlife. flea market, selling everything including the
Consider these recommendations as just a kitchen sink, is at 20 de Septiembre between
place to begin: the best thing to do is wan- San Martín and Av Luro, seven blocks north-
der around the neighborhood for yourself west of Plaza San Martín.
and see what appeals.
88 Information
oAlmacén Estación Central BAR Th e Pa m pas & th e Atl a nti c C oas t MADtralirnakdntienligcPC&laoNtaiasgth tl i f e
There are several money exchanges and loctu
(cnr Alsina & Garay; h7pm-late) This hip bar in torios (internet cafes) along San Martín and
a quaint and thoughtfully restored antique Rivadavia. There are also several branches
building – an old corner store where the of the city’s official tourist information office
former president of Argentina, Marcelo Tor- around town.
cuato de Alvear, reportedly did his shopping – Tourist Office (% 495-1777; www.turismo
gets packed with locals every night. Gourmet mardelplata.gov.ar; Blvd Marítimo 2270;
h10am-8pm Mar-Dec, to 10pm Jan & Feb)
Centrally located and exceptionally helpful.
pub food and frequent happy hour deals, 88 Getting There & Away
even on weekends, only add to the appeal.
AIR
Antares BAR From Mardel’s Ástor Piazzolla International
Airport, 10km north of town, Aerolíneas Argen-
(Olavarría 2724; h7pm-4am) The cool micro- tinas (% 496-0101; www.aerolineas.com.ar;
brewery mini-chain has several locations in Moreno 2442; h10am-6pm Mon-Fri) and Sol
Mar del Plata; this one, in Barrio Los Tron- (www.sol.com.ar) have several daily flights to
cos is arguably the most popular. Come for Buenos Aires.
a variety of craft beers on tap, plus excellent
pub food and a lively local crowd. Come
early if you want to actually have a conver-
sation with someone – Antares gets louder BUS
as the night rolls on. There’s also a tasting Mar del Plata’s sparkling bus terminal is next to
room, known as Bar de la Fábrica (12 de its the train station, about 2km northwest of the
Octubre 7749) at the factory itself. beach. To reach the center, cross Av Luro in front
of the terminal and take local bus 511, 512 or
La Bodeguita del Medio BAR 513 heading southeast; taxis to downtown cost
around AR$35.
(Castelli 1252; h6pm-4am) Come for the fa-
mously delicious mojitos, the Cuban-inspired In the city center, the ticket agency Central de
food and the live music at this atmospheric Pasajes (% 493-7843; cnr San Martín & Cor-
and art-filled cocktail bar, named after one rientes; h10am-8pm) sells long-distance bus
of Hemingway’s favorite haunts in Havana. tickets for most companies, saving you a trip to
the terminal.
7 Shopping
Buses from Mar del Plata
Forgot your swimsuit? Calle Güemes, in Bar- DESTINATION COST (AR$) TIME (HR)
rio Los Troncos, is lined with upscale shops Bahía Blanca 505 8
and boutiques, while downtown has more Bariloche 1504 19
mainstream chains and department stores. Buenos Aires 394-520 5½
Córdoba 1096-1248 16-18
Diagonal de los Artesanos CRAFTS, MARKET Mendoza 1215-1550 18-21
(Plaza San Martín; h6pm-1am mid-Dec–late Feb, Necochea 139 2¼
3-8pm Sat & Sun Mar-Nov) This long-running Pinamar 152 2½
craft fair features nearly 200 vendors: they Puerto Madryn 1035 16
set up their stalls on Plaza San Martín Tandil 201 4
and along Diagonal Pueyrredon to sell Villa Gesell 138 1½
everything from mate gourds and knives to
sweaters and silverwork. The fair happens
daily (and starts in the evening) during the
summer; outside the peak season, it only
runs on Saturday and Sunday.
146
Th e Pa m pas & th e Atl a nti c C oas t NAGtelctatonicnthgiecAaCrooausntd MIRAMAR
If you’ve read The Motorcycle Diaries, or saw the film based on Ernesto ‘Che’ Guevara’s
memoir, you might remember Miramar. The beach resort was the first stop that the fu-
ture revolutionary and his traveling companion, Alberto Granado, made on their epic trip
around South America – Guevara’s girlfriend, Chichina, was vacationing here with her
family at the time.
Today, it’s still a family-friendly destination with a long, wide beach and gentle waves.
Compared to Mar del Plata, 45km to the north, Miramar is fairly low-key, but like any
other Argentine resort it does get crowded in summer.
The tourist office (%02291-420190; www.miramar.tur.ar; cnr Calle 21 & Costanera;
h8am-9pm), located at the beach, has details about various activities around town,
including horseback riding, golfing and fishing. Miramar is known for its surf, more easily
accessible at the north end of town where there are a few surf schools. For accommo-
dations, try Hotel Danieli (%02291-432366; www.hoteldanielimiramar.com.ar; Calle 24,
No 1114; d from US$120; W) or one of the other basic but comfortable hotels around the
beach and pedestrian zone.
From Mar del Plata, buses (AR$22, one hour) run regularly to Miramar’s bus terminal
at Av 40 and Calle 15, within six blocks of the center.
Travelers looking for downright isolation can head to Mar del Sud, a small town 16km
south of Miramar. It’s known for its rustic atmosphere, black-rock beach and fishing wa-
ters, and claims some hotel ruins as a main tourist attraction. There are no tall buildings
here and much fewer services than its neighbor, so if you’re looking to get away from the
crowds this should be your stop.
TRAIN Car rentals are available downtown at Alamo
The train station (% 475-6076; www.sofse. (% 495-2935; Córdoba 2270).
gob.ar; Av Luro 4700 at Italia; h 6am-midnight)
is adjacent to the bus terminal, 2km from the Necochea
beach. Trains with primera (AR$200) and Pull-
man (AR$240) class service run between Mar % 02262 / POP 85,000
del Plata and Buenos Aires’ Constitución station
(six hours) three times weekly (on Monday, Totally pumping in summer and near dead
Wednesday, and Friday) in each direction. The in winter, Necochea has a beach-town feel
fancier Marplatense service (AR$250, 5¾ hours) and remains relatively undisturbed by the
runs only once weekly, leaving Buenos Aires on high-rises that keep springing up. It’s not the
Thursday and returning from Mar del Plata on most charming of the towns along Argenti-
Saturday. Visit www.ferrobaires.gba.gov.ar for na’s central Atlantic coast, but with such a
more information, and be sure to reserve tickets long and wide beach, it’s fairly certain that
well ahead in summer. you’ll find a spot to lay your towel – and Ne-
cochea has some of the best-value lodging
88 Getting Around on the coast.
The airport (% 478-0744) is 10km north of 1 Sights & Activities
the city. Take bus 542, marked ‘aeropuerto’
(AR$4.80, 30 minutes) from the corner of Blvd The dense pine woods of Parque Miguel
Marítimo and Belgrano. Taxis cost from around Lillo, a large greenbelt along the beach, are
AR$100, depending on where you’re going. popular for cycling, horseback riding, walk-
ing and picnicking. Horses and bikes can be
Despite Mar del Plata’s sprawl, frequent buses rented inside the park.
reach just about every place in town. However,
most buses (including the airport bus) require The Río Quequén Grande, rich in rainbow
tarjetas de aproximación (magnetic cards) that trout and mackerel, also allows for easy raft-
must be bought ahead of time at kiosco (news- ing and kayaking, particularly around the
stands) and charged up. falls at Saltos del Quequén. Local outfitters
organize both river and ocean kayak trips in
The webpage www.cualbondi.com.ar/mar-del summertime; just take a stroll downtown to
-plata provides useful maps of all local bus see what’s on.
routes. The tourist office can also help with
transportation details.
147
At the village of Quequén at the river’s a great place for a snack any time of day,
mouth, a lighthouse and several stranded serving everything from medialunas (crois-
shipwrecks offer good opportunities for ex- sants) and gourmet sandwiches to pizza and
ploration and photography below sculpted paella.
cliffs.
Taberna Española SPANISH $$
With some of the best waves along the At- (%520-539; cnr Calles 83 & 8; mains AR$85-200;
lantic coast, Necochea is a hit with surfers; it hnoon-3pm & 8pm-midnight) Head to this
also attracts windsurfers year-round. vintage corner restaurant for fine seafood,
Spanish-style. Deals include the plato del
4 Sleeping día (daily special), served with coffee or des-
sert for AR$69.
Note that some accommodations are only
open December to March. Th e Pa m pas & th e Atl a nti c C oas t ABStlaleheaí apnitBnilgcaCnocast
Dyd Hotel HOTEL $ Antares BAR
(%425-560; www.dydnecochea.com.ar; Calle 77, (%421976; www.cervezaantares.com; Calle 4, No
4266; h7pm-late Wed-Sun Apr-Nov, daily Dec-Mar)
No 314; s/d from US$54/63; W) Simple but One block in from the beach, this is the Ne-
colorfully decorated, this friendly hotel has
small but well-equipped rooms. The best cochea branch of the popular bar-restaurant
chain. Along with several craft-style beers,
part is the location, two long blocks from there’s a good selection of pub-style food
the beach and a few blocks north of the
main plaza – it’s relatively quiet here in high (mains AR$80 to AR$125). Look for sever-
al other bars nearby, on Calle 87 between
season. Note that rooms are fan-cooled, not Calles 4 and 6.
air-conditioned.
Hostería del Bosque HOTEL $$ 88 Information
(%420002; www.hosteria-delbosque.com.ar; Calle
89, No 350; d/tr from US$120/187; aiW) Four Tourist Office (% 438333; www.necochea.tur.
blocks in from the beach, this homey yet el- ar; cnr Avs 2 & 79; h 8am-9pm Dec-Mar, 10am-
egant family-run hostería is by far the most 4pm Apr-Nov) On the beach.
atmospheric place to stay in town. Rooms 88 Getting There & Away
are large and comfortable, and some have
views of Parque Miguel Lillo across the The bus terminal (Av 58, btw Calle 47 & Av 45)
street. There’s a lovely garden and a good is 3.5km from the beach; taxis to the center cost
buffet breakfast; it’s popular, so reserve AR$30 to AR$35, or take a local bus marked
ahead. ‘playa.’ Destinations include Buenos Aires
(AR$557, 7½ hours), Mar del Plata (AR$139, two
Hotel Mirasol HOTEL $$ hours) and Tandil (AR$146, three hours).
(%525158; www.mirasolhotel.com.ar; Calle 4bis,
No 4133; s/d from US$66/78; aW) Enjoying
a prime location on Plaza San Martín, half Bahía Blanca
a block from the pedestrian zone and two
blocks from the beach, this friendly place of- % 0291 / POP 291,000
fers comfortable budget rooms year-round.
Best value are the three upstairs units Grandiose buildings, an attractive plaza
with air-con and windows overlooking the and boulevards lined with shade trees lend
square. oft-overlooked Bahía Blanca the feel of a cos-
mopolitan city in miniature. It is useful as
5 Eating & Drinking a resting point during overland trips from
Buenos Aires to Patagonia, but it’s not en-
There are several casual dining options tirely without interest.
around Plaza San Martín. Many of the bal-
nearios have eateries where you can grab a The hordes of sailors who dock here, at
bite beachside. In low season many restau- what is now South America’s largest naval
rants are only open on weekends. base, attest to Bahía Blanca’s militaristic
beginnings. In an early effort to establish
Ernnan’s CAFE $ military control on the periphery of the
(%521427; Calle 83, No 284; mains AR$45-90; pampas, Colonel Ramón Estomba situated
h8am-late; W) Sitting on the edge of Neco- the pompously named Fortaleza Protectora
chea’s main square, this high-ceilinged cafe Argentina at the natural harbor of Bahía
Blanca in 1828.
with sidewalk seating and free wi-fi makes
148 the bay. Now it holds a small museum and
cafe. But half the fun is just walking around
GETTING TO THE PORT outside the abandoned structure with its el-
egant architecture and shattered windows:
Unless you have a rental car, you have paranormal activity has been reported here
two options for getting to Ingeniero many times over.
White (the port neighborhood) from
downtown Bahía Blanca. Option one Museo del Puerto MUSEUM
is to take bus 500 (30 to 40 minutes)
from the south side of Plaza Rivadavia. (%0291-457-3006; www.museodelpuerto.blogspot.
Note that cash is not allowed for pay- com; cnr Guillermo Torres & Cárrega; donation
ment: you’ll need to purchase a bus requested; h9am-noon Mon-Fri, 4-8pm Sat &
card from a nearby kiosk, which can Sun) Housed in a colorfully painted former
be a challenge when the shops close in customs building, this small but engaging
the afternoon. Option two is to take aTh e Pa m pas & th e Atl a nti c C oas t ABStiaglhhaí atnstBilcaCnocast museum is a tribute to the region’s immi-
20-minute taxi ride (AR$150 one-way). grants. The rooms include archives and
Coming back, there are also taxis avail- photographs, and mock-ups of an old pe-
able, parked at the stand near Museo luquería (barber shop) and bar. The his-
del Puerto. torical collection starts in the yard outside,
where a wooden fishing boat and other
antique artifacts hearken back to the port’s
1 Sights intriguing past.
Contrary to popular expectation, the city 4 Sleeping
center is not close to the port itself – to get
to the port neighborhood, known as Inge- The most pleasant place to stay is around
niero White, you’ll need to take a taxi ride, central Plaza Rivadavia, where you’ll also
or bus trip from Plaza Rivadavia. To get a find a range of restaurants and cafes.
good sense of Bahía Blanca, you’ll want to
see both sections. oHotel Muñiz HOTEL $$
(%0291-456-0060; www.hotelmuniz.com.ar; O’Hig
Downtown, attractions are mostly of the gins 23; s/d from US$48/73; aiW) A down-
architectural variety, thanks to the wave town landmark, the Muñiz is located in
of construction by European immigrants a beautiful old building. Note the vintage
in the early 20th century. Go for a stroll charm on the lobby level: black-and-white
past the city’s neoclassical performing tiled floors, polished woodwork, an antique
arts center, Teatro Municipal (Alsina 425), phone booth. Upstairs, four levels of guest
and the Museo de Arte Contemporáneo rooms are linked by long hallways. It’s a
(%459-4006; Sarmiento 450; h9am-8pm Tue-Fri, great (and affordable) choice only steps
4-8pm Sat & Sun) F, showcasing local and away from the central plaza.
national artists.
Apart Hotel Patagonia Sur HOTEL $$
Near the port, you can’t get very close to (%0291-455-2110; www.apartpatagoniasur.com.ar;
the water – it’s still very much in commercial Italia 64; s/d from US$72/85; Wc) A popular
use – but you can get a taste of the port’s pick for families and budget travelers, this
colorful history at the pair of museums. friendly aparthotel has dated but perfect-
Bring your camera: full of rustic metal hous- ly functional apartment-style rooms with
es, abandoned trains and rusted old ship kitchenettes. An added bonus: the included
hulls, Ingeniero White is a photographer’s continental breakfast features fresh fruits
delight.
oMuseo Taller and a surprising variety of homemade cakes
and pastries. It’s a short walk south of the
Ferrowhite HISTORIC BUILDING plaza, near the intersection of O’Higgins and
(%457-0335; www.ferrowhite.bahiablanca.gov.ar; Italia.
Juan B Justo 3883; admission by donation; h9am-
noon Mon-Fri, 4-8pm Sat & Sun Jun-Aug & Dec-Feb,
3-7pm Sep-Nov & Mar-May,) Grandiose and 5 Eating
ghostly, Ferrowhite is the kind of landmark If you find yourself in Ingeniero White at
you see from far away and think ‘what in night, look for the trio of corrugated metal
the world is that?’ The castle-like power buildings on the plaza near the Museo del
plant, built by Italians in the 1930s, sits be- Puerto. After dark they open as food stands
side massive grain elevators on the edge of selling sandwiches and beer to a local crowd.
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