349
Hotel Alhambra HOTEL $ windows looking into the kitchen and you’ll
(%0264-421-4780; www.alhambrahotel.com.ar; Gen be able to see your meal being hacked off the
eral Acha 180 Sur; s/d US$30/40; aW) Smallish, carcass before getting thrown on the flames.
carpeted rooms with splashes of dark-wood Excellent salads, too.
paneling, giving them a classy edge. Little
touches such as leather chairs and gold ash- Flores Art Bar BAR
tray stands in the hallways give it a kitschy
appeal and the central location seals the deal. (Entre Rios 145; h7pm-3am) There are some OK
bar snacks on offer here, but the place works
best as a bar – cool music, great atmosphere M e n d oz a & th e C e ntr a l A n d e s SEatni nJ uga&n Dri n ki n g
HOTEL $$ and an excellent cocktail list.
Hotel del Bono Suite
(%0264-421-7600; www.hoteldelbono.com.ar; Mitre
Shopping
775 Oeste; d/ste US$96/110; aWs) With some
slick design features taking the edge off the
corporate blandness, this is a good deal for Mercado Artesanal Tradicional MARKET
the price, and the well-stocked kitchenettes (Traditional Artisans Market; Centro de Difusión Cul-
and rooftop pool are added bonuses. tural Eva Perón; h10am-7pm Mon-Sat) The Mer-
cado Artesanal Tradicional is an excellent
local handicrafts market with an assortment
Albertina Hotel HOTEL $$ of items for sale including ponchos and the
(%0264-421-4222; www.hotelalbertina.com; Mitre brightly colored mantas (shawls) of Jáchal.
31 Este; s/d from US$78/85; aiW) A slick,
business-class hotel on the plaza. The tiny
rooms are a bit of a letdown, but the bath- 88 Orientation
rooms are big.
San Juan is 170km north of Mendoza via RN 40
5 Eating & Drinking and 1140km from Buenos Aires. Like most Arg
entine cities, San Juan’s grid pattern makes
Most restaurants are right downtown, and orientation very easy; the addition of cardinal
points – norte (north), sur (south), este (east)
many of the city’s hippest eateries are around and oeste (west) – to street addresses helps even
the intersection of Rivadavia and Entre Ríos. more. East–west Av San Martín and north–south
Calle Mendoza divide the city into these quad-
Baró INTERNATIONAL $ rants. The functional center of town is south of Av
(Rivadavia 55 Oeste; mains AR$80-120; h8am- San Martín, often referred to as Av Libertador.
11:30pm) This popular, main-street cafe-
restaurant has the best variety of pasta dishes
in town and a relaxed atmosphere that make JUST A LOAD OF HOT AIR
it a good stop for coffee or drinks at any time.
While traveling through San Juan, es-
Soychú VEGETARIAN $ pecially in autumn and winter, you may
(Av José Ignacio de la Roza 223 Oeste; buffet AR$60; become acquainted – through hearsay
hnoon-9pm Mon-Sat, 11am-3pm Sun; v) Excel- if not through experience – with one of
lent vegetarian buffet attached to a health- the region’s meteorological marvels:
food store selling all sorts of groceries and el zonda. Much like the chinook of the
a range of teas. Arrive early for the best Rockies or the foehn of the European
selection. Alps, the zonda is a dry, warm wind that
can raise a cold day’s temperature from
ode Sánchez FUSION $$ freezing to nearly 20°C (68°F). The zon-
(Rivadavia 61 Oeste; mains AR$130-200; hnoon- da originates with storms in the Pacific
3pm & 8pm-midnight Tue-Sun) San Juan’s snooti that blow eastward, hit the Andes, dump
est downtown restaurant is actually pretty their moisture and come whipping down
good. It has a creative menu with a smat- the eastern slopes, picking up heat as
tering of seafood dishes, an adequate wine they go. The wind, which varies from
list (featuring all the San Juan heavy hitters) mild to howling, can last several days;
and a hushed, tranquil atmosphere. sanjuaninos (people from San Juan)
Remolacha PARRILLA $$ can step outside and tell you when it
(cnr Av José Ignacio de la Roza & Sarmiento; mains will end – and that it will be cold when
AR$90-150; hnoon-3pm & 8pm-1am) One of the it does. It’s a regular occurrence, giving
biggest parrillas in town, the dining room the region – and the sanjuaninos –
is a bit ordinary, but eating in the garden is severe seasonal schizophrenia, espe-
a lush experience. Get a table by the picture cially during winter.
350 M e n d oz a & th e C e ntr a l A n d e s AI nrfoournmdatSiaonnJ ua n 88 Getting Around
88 Information Las Chacritas Airport (% 0264-425-4133) is
located 13km southeast of town on RN 20. A
ACA (Automóvil Club Argentina; % 0264-422- taxi or remise (radio taxi) costs AR$90.
3781; 9 de Julio 802) Argentina’s auto club;
good source for provincial road maps. If there’s two or more of you, hiring a car to get
Banco de San Juan (cnr Rivadavia & Entre to Ischigualasto can work out a better deal than
Ríos; h 9am-1pm Mon-Fri) Has an ATM. taking a tour. One caveat being that many rental
Cambio Santiago (General Acha 52 Sur; outfits try to steer you away from one-day rent-
h 8am-6pm Mon-Fri, 9am-1pm Sat & Sun) als. The tourist office keeps a list of rental op-
Money exchange. erators, including Classic (% 0264-422-4622;
Hospital Rawson (% 0264-422-2272; cnr Av San Martín 163 Oeste; h 9am-7pm), across
General Paz & Estados Unidos) from the tourist office and Trebol (% 0264-422-
Post Office (Av José Ignacio de la Roza 259 5935; Laprida 82 Este; h 9am-8pm), inside the
Este; h 8am-6pm Mon-Fri, 9am-1pm Sat) Alkazar Hotel.
Tourist Office (% 0264-422-2431; www.
turismo.sanjuan.gov.ar; Sarmiento 24 Sur; Around San Juan
h 8am-7pm) Has a good map of the city and
its surroundings, plus useful information on Only 18km west of San Juan, the 32km sq
the rest of the province, particularly Parque Dique Ullum is a center for nautical sports:
Provincial Ischigualasto. swimming, fishing, kayaking, waterskiing
and windsurfing (though no rental equip-
88 Getting There & Away ment is available). Balnearios (beach clubs)
line its shores, and hanging out for a day
AIR in the sun is part of being in San Juan. At
Aerolíneas Argentinas/Austral (% 0264-421- night, many of the balnearios function as
4158; Av San Martín 215 Oeste; h10am-6pm dance clubs. Bus 23 from Av Salta or Bus 29
Mon-Fri, to 1pm Sat) flies twice daily to Buenos from the San Juan bus terminal via Av Cór-
Aires except Sunday (once only). doba both go hourly to the dam outlet.
BUS Valle de Calingasta
From San Juan’s bus terminal (% 0264-422-
1604; Estados Unidos 492 Sur) you can book The Calingasta Valley is a vast smear of
tickets to Santiago, Viña del Mar and Valparaíso in scenic butter cradled between the Andes and
Chile but you’ll have to change buses in Mendoza. the rumpled, multicolored precordillera,
and is one of the most beautiful regions in
Except in summer, when there may be direct both San Juan and Mendoza provinces.
buses, service to Patagonian destinations south
of Neuquén requires a change of bus in Mendoza; With the completion of two new reser-
through-tickets can be purchased in San Juan. voirs, the spectacular cliffside RP 12 is now
closed. Most maps will show the old road,
Various companies serve the following desti- but drivers have to take RP 5 north to Talac-
nations daily. asto, then the RP 149, which snakes around
west and then south to Calingasta.
DESTINATION COST (AR$) TIME (HR)
Barreal 95 4 Calingasta
Buenos Aires 1460 14
Calingasta 80 3½ % 02648 / POP 2200 / ELEV 1430M
Catamarca 673 8
Córdoba 675 11 Calingasta is a small agricultural town shad-
Huaco 75 3 ed by álamos (poplars) on the shores of Río
La Rioja 506 7 de los Patos. There’s little to do, though a visit
Mendoza 225 3 to the 17th-century adobe chapel Capilla de
Rodeo 105 3½ Nuestra Señora del Carmen makes a nice
San Agustín de Valle 130 4½ stop on the way to Barreal. Looming on the
Fértil horizon 7km out of town is Cerro El Calvario,
San José de Jáchal 105 3 the site of an indigenous cemetery where sev-
San Luis 425 5 eral mummies have been found. One example
Tucumán 932 13 can be seen in Calingasta’s small archaeolog-
Vallecito 46 1 ical museum (admission AR$10; h10am-1pm &
4-8pm Tue-Sat), just off the main plaza.
351
RUTA DEL VINO DE SAN JUAN M e n d oz a & th e C e ntr a l A n d e s VGaeltltei ndge ACraoliunngdas ta
San Juan’s winery tourism industry isn’t quite as developed as that of Mendoza, but in a
lot of ways that’s a good thing. There are no crowds for a start, and tours are occasion-
ally conducted by the winemakers themselves. A few wineries have gotten together to
promote the Ruta del Vino de San Juan (the San Juan Wine Route). The best way to do it,
if you want to hit them all in one day, is to hire a car (p350). Starting from downtown
San Juan, it’s about a 40km return stopping at all the places listed here. It is feasible
to do it by public transportation and taxi, too. None of the wineries listed below require
reservations.
The first stop on the route should be Las Marianas (%0264-423-1191; www.bodegalas
marianas.com.ar; Calle Nuevo s/n; h10am-1pm & 5-8pm Tue-Sat) F. One of the prettiest
wineries in the region, this one was built in 1922, abandoned in 1950 and reinstated in
1999. The main building is gorgeous, with thick adobe walls and a few examples of the
original winemaking equipment lying around. The mountain views out over the vineyard
are superb. If you’re coming by bus, catch the 16 (AR$4.10, 40 minutes) near the corner
of Santa Fe and Mendoza in San Juan. Get off at the corner of Calle Aberastain and Calle
Nuevo, where you’ll see a signpost to the winery (an 800m walk).
Making your way back to Calle Aberastain, turn right and follow the road south for
500m to Viñas de Segisa (%0264-492-2000; www.saxsegisa.com.ar; cnr Aberastain &
Calle 15; h9am-7pm Mon-Sat) F. This stately old winery has more of a museum feel
than others. The tour of the underground cellar complex is excellent and tastings are
generous.
If you’re not up for a walk, now’s the time to call a remise (shared taxi). If you are,
make your way back north to Calle 14, turn right and continue for 5km until you hit RN
40. Turning left, after about 1km you’ll come to Fabril Alto Verde (%0264-421-2683;
www.fabril-altoverde.com.ar; RN40, btwn Calle 13 & 14; h9am-1pm & 2:30-6:30pm Mon-Fri)
F, a big, state-of-the-art winery that sells 90% of its wine for export; tours here are
in English or Spanish and come accompanied by a rather dreary promotional video. The
award-winning organic brands Buenas Hondas and Touchstone are produced here.
Next, catch a 24 bus heading north on RN 40 up to Calle 11. Turning right down Calle
11 for 300m brings you to Miguel Mas (%0264-422-5807; [email protected]; Calle
11 s/n; h9am-5pm Mon-Fri) SF This small winery makes some of the country’s only
organic sparkling wine and other wine. The whole process – apart from inserting the cork
in bottles – is done by hand. Tours (in Spanish only) take you through every step of the
process.
Making your way back out to RN 40, flag down a 24 bus, which will take you back to
the bus terminal in San Juan.
The folks at Calingasta’s tourist office Two buses a day roll through town, head-
(%02648-441066; www.calingastaturismo.gov.ar; ing for San Juan (AR$80, 3½ hours) and
RP 12; h8am-8pm), at the entrance to town Barreal (AR$16, 30 minutes).
from San Juan, are helpful for sights and
lodging in the area. Barreal
If you wish to spend the night, lay your % 02648 / POP 3460 / ELEV 1650M
head at the modest Hospedaje Nora
(%02648-421027; cnr Cantoni & Sarmiento; r per Barreal’s divine location makes it one of the
person US$21), featuring simple but spacious most beautifully situated towns you’ll likely
rooms in a family house. Those in the build- ever come across. Sauces (weeping willows),
ing out the back are a better deal. There’s álamos and eucalyptus trees drape lazily over
a municipal campground (campsites US$6) the dirt roads that meander through town,
down by the river. The meals at La Moro- and views of the Cordillera de Ansilta – a
cha (mains from AR$65; hnoon-3pm & 6-11pm) stretch of the Andes with seven majestic peaks
will stave off your hunger – on offer are tasty ranging from 5130m to 5885m – are simply
empanadas and good-value set meals. astonishing. Wandering along Barreal’s back
roads is an exercise in dreamy laziness.
352 Cabañas Kummel (%02648-441206; Presi-
Presidente Roca is the main drag through dente Roca s/n).
town, a continuation of RP 149 that leads 4 Sleeping & Eating
from Calingasta to Barreal and on to Par-
que Nacional El Leoncito. Only a few streets Posada Don Lisandro HOSTEL $
have names; businesses listed without them (%0264-15-505-9122; www.donlisandro.com.ar; Av
simply require asking directions. San Martín s/n; dm US$11, d with/without bathroom
M e n d oz a & th e C e ntr a l A n d e s SVailghl te sd&e CA acltiinvigtaise sta US$350/280) This newish posada (inn) is
1 Sights & Activities actually a 100-year-old house. The original
cane-and-mud ceilings remain, as do a few
Wander down to the Río de los Patos and sticks of room furniture. There’s a kitchen
take in the sweeping views of the valley and for guest use and lovely, shady grounds to
the Cordillera de Ansilta, whose highest lounge around in.
peak, Ansilta, tops out at 5885m. To the
south, Aconcagua and Tupungato are both oEl Alemán HOTEL $$
visible, as is the peak of Cerro Mercedario (%0264-15-411-9913; www.elalemanbarreal.com;
(6770m). d/q US$92/121) S Down by the river, with
sweeping views of the Andes, this German/
At the south end of Presidente Roca is a Argentine-owned complex has some of the
sort of triangular roundabout. Follow the best-looking rooms in town. Rooms are cute
road east (away from the Andes) until it and cozy, and the lack of TVs adds to the
leads into the hills; you’ll see a small shrine overall tranquility of the place. There’s an ex-
and you can hike into the foothills for more cellent restaurant on the premises, serving
stunning views. Follow this road for 3km hearty dishes and superb breakfasts made
and you’ll come to a mining site (the gate from the freshest ingredients. Call ahead to
should be open). Enter and continue for 1km get picked up from the town center.
to reach a petrified forest.
Restaurante Isidro ARGENTINE $
White-water rafting is excellent – more (Presidente Roca s/n; mains AR$70-100; h8am-
for the scenery than for the rapids them- 3pm & 8-11:30pm) Offers a fairly standard
selves – and most trips start 50km upriver range of meats and pastas, and some deli-
at Las Hornillas. Contact Barreal Rafting cious meat empanadas. Also a good selec-
(%0264-15-530-7764), the best-established tion of wines from the San Juan region.
rafting operator in town.
88 Information
Las Hornillas (site of two refugios – rustic
shelters – and a military outpost) also pro- Banco de la Nación (Presidente Roca s/n;
vides climbing access to the Cordón de la h 9am-1pm Mon-Fri) Has an ATM.
Rameda, which boasts five peaks over 6000m, Tourist Office (% 02648-441066; turismo@
including Cerro Mercedario. Climbing here is calingasta.gov.ar; Presidente Roca s/n; h8am-
more technical than Aconcagua and many 8pm) Located beside the main plaza; offers a list
mountaineers prefer the area. Ramon Ossa, of excursion operators and accommodations.
a Barreal native, is a highly recommended
mountain guide and excursion operator who 88 Getting There & Away
knows the cordillera intimately; contact him
at Cabañas Doña Pipa (%02648-441004; Barreal’s right at the end of the line, but there
www.fortunaviajes.com.ar). He can arrange trips are two departures per day for San Juan
to Cerro Mercedario and expeditions across (AR$80, four hours), which pass through Calin-
the Andes in the footsteps of San Martín, in- gasta (AR$16, 30 minutes).
cluding mules and equipment.
There’s been talk for years about a bus service
Barreal is best known for carrovelismo that will connect Barreal with Uspallata in Men-
(land sailing), an exhilarating sport practiced doza province – it may well be operating by the
on a small cart with a sail attached. Fanatics time you read this.
come from miles away to whizz around out
on the gusty, cracked lake bed at Pampa El Le- Parque Nacional El Leoncito
oncito, about 20km from town and adjacent
to the national park. Rogelio Toro (%0264- The 76-sq-km Parque Nacional El Leoncito
15-671-7196; [email protected]) hires the occupies a former estancia (ranch) 22km
necessary equipment and also gives classes. south of Barreal. The landscape is typical of
the Andean precordillera, though it’s drier
For access to the refugio at Las Hornil-
las, climbing information, guide services
and mountain-bike rental, visit Maxi at
than the valley north of Barreal. Lately, its 353M e n d oz a & th e C e ntr a l A n d e s GS ae nt tJionsgéTdhee rJ áe c&haAlway
primary attraction is the Pampa de Leon-
cito, where a dry lake bed makes for superb HUACO
carrovelismo (land sailing). The high, dry
and wide-open valley rarely sees a cloud, Heading north from San José de Jáchal
also making for superb stargazing. Hence, on RN 40, visitors pass through a beau
the park is home to the Complejo Astronom- tiful landscape that is rich with folkloric
ico el Leoncito (www.casleo.gov.ar), which traditions and rarely seen by foreigners.
contains two important observatories, the East of Jáchal, RN 40 climbs the precip-
Observatorio El Leoncito and Observatorio itous Cuesta de Huaco, with a view
Cesco. Night visits are also possible, but of Los Cauquenes dam, before arriving
must be scheduled ahead of time by contact- at Huaco, a sleepy village 36km from
ing the Complejo’s San Juan office (%0264- Jáchal, whose 200-year-old Viejo Mo-
421-3653; www.casleo.gov.ar; Av España 1512 sur, lino (Old Mill) justifies the trip. Some
San Juan; h9am-1pm & 3-6pm Mon-Fri). visitors get captivated by Huaco’s eerie
landscape and middle-of-nowhere
Camping is not permitted here, but in atmosphere. If you’re one of them, you
the northwest corner of the park, Cascada can stay at Hostería Huaco (%0264-
El Rincon is a lovely, small waterfall set in a 423-9590; www.hosteriahuaco.com.ar; Calle
shallow canyon. If you’re looking for some- La Paz s/n; s/d US$32/38; Ws), a beau-
where to picnic and splash around on a hot tifully set up little hotel with great moun-
day, this is your spot. tain views from the backyard pool. One
bus daily from Huaco heads to San Juan
There is no public transportation to the (AR$75, four hours), passing though
park, and with 17km of entrance road add- Jáchal (AR$32, one hour) on the way.
ed to the 22km to get here from Barreal, it’s
certainly too far to walk and probably too outside, but rooms are big and comfortable
far to ride. If you don’t have your own trans- and the bathrooms are modern.
portation, contact Ramon Ossa at Cabañas
Doña Pipa (p352) in Barreal – his inform- La Taberna de Juan (San Martín s/n; mains
ative tours of the park have been heartily AR$80-120; hnoon-11pm) is a bright and cheery
recommended. parrilla facing the plaza. Meat is the go here,
but there’s a range of pasta dishes and salads,
San José de Jáchal too. Set lunches are particularly good value.
% 02647 / POP 10,900 / ELEV 1170M There are several daily buses to San Juan
(AR$105, three hours) from Jáchal’s bus ter-
Founded in 1751 and surrounded by vine- minal (cnr San Juan & Obispo Zapata).
yards and olive groves, Jáchal is a charming
village with a mix of older adobes and con- Rodeo
temporary brick houses. Jachalleros (the lo-
cal residents) are renowned for their fidelity % 02647 / POP 2600 / ELEV 2010M
to indigenous and gaucho craft traditions;
in fact, Jáchal’s reputation as the Cuna de la Rodeo is a small, ramshackle town with pic-
Tradición (Cradle of Tradition) is celebrated turesque adobe houses typical of the region,
during November’s Fiesta de la Tradición. 42km west of San José de Jáchal.
Except during festival season, finding these
crafts is easier in San Juan. Rodeo has recently become famous –
world famous – for windsurfing and kite-
Across from the main plaza the Iglesia surfing. The town is only 3km away from
San José, a national monument, houses one of the best windsurfing sites on the
the Cristo Negro (Black Christ), or Señor planet: Dique Cuesta del Viento, a reser-
de la Agonía (Lord of Agony), a grisly leath- voir where, between mid-October and early
er image with articulated head and limbs, May, wind speeds reach 120km/h near-
brought from Potosí in colonial times. ly every afternoon, drawing surfers from
around the globe. Even if you don’t take to
Jáchal’s accommodations scene isn’t what the wind, it’s worth spending a day or two
you’d call thriving, but the Hotel San Martín wandering around Rodeo and hanging out
(%02647-420431; www.hotelsanmartinjachal.com. on the beach, absorbing the spectacular
ar; Echegaray 387; s/d US$24/35; aiW), a few views and watching the insanity of airborne
blocks from the plaza, does the job. It’s not windsurfers.
quite as contemporary as it looks from the
354 4 Sleeping & Eating
West of town on RN 510 is the depart-
Hostel Campo Base HOSTEL $
ment of Iglesia, home of the precordillera (%02646-420063; www.hosteldelvalledelaluna.
thermal baths of Pismanta. RN 510 contin- com.ar; Tucumán, btwn San Luís & Libertador;
ues west to Chile via the lung-busting 4765m dm from US$12; W) The best set-up hostel
Paso del Agua Negra (open summer only). in town has good-sized dorms and all the
standard hostel amenities. This is a good
Inside the town hall, the tourist officeM e n d oz a & th e C e ntr a l A n d e s S laeneApignugs t&í nEadtei nVgall e F é r t ilplace to come if you’re looking to put a
([email protected]; h8am-8pm) group together for an Ischigualasto tour –
provides a list of places to stay and informa- you might find the hostel has one already
tion on local attractions. organized.
From San Juan’s bus terminal, there are
several departures daily for Rodeo (AR$30,
5½ hours).
4 Sleeping & Eating Cabañas de Valle Pintado CABIN $$
(%0264-434-5737; www.vallepintado.com.ar; cnr
Tucumán & Mitre; r/cabin US$45/78; Ws) Some
Rancho Lamaral HOSTEL $ of the best-value rooms and cabins in town,
(%0264-15-660-1197; www.rancholamaral.com;
campsite per person US$12, dm/d US$20/50) On a block from the plaza. Rooms are spacious
and spotless with little kitchenettes and cab-
Playa Lamaral, on the shore of the reservoir, ins sleep four comfortably. The lovely gar-
HI-affiliate Rancho Lamaral offers simple
rooms in a refurbished adobe house. It also den and good-sized pool are the cream on
the pudding.
offers windsurfing classes and kitesurfing
courses, and rents all equipment.
La Florencia PARRILLA $
(cnr Mitre & Acha; mains AR$70-120; hnoon-3pm
Posta Huayra HOTEL $$ & 8pm-midnight) Has a good range of parrilla
(%0264-15-451-6179; www.postahuayra.com.ar;
Zeballos s/n; s/d US$45/75) Nestled amongst offerings, including chivito (baby goat –
order two hours in advance) and a delicious
the poplars below town, this atmospheric lomo al roquefort (beef with roquefort
little option offers supremely comfortable
rooms in a hippy-chic style with plenty of in- cheese sauce; AR$32).
digenous motifs. The recommended on-site 88 Orientation
restaurant is open to non-guests.
San Agustín lies among the Sierra Pampeanas,
La Surfera INTERNATIONAL $ gentle sedimentary mountains cut by impressive
(Santo Domingo s/n; mains AR$80-120; hnoon- canyons, 247km northeast of San Juan via RN
1am; v) La Surfera is on the main street 141 and RP 510, which continues to Ischigualasto
in the center of town. This laid-back and La Rioja. San Agustín is small enough that
restaurant-cafe-reggae bar is HQ for Ro- locals pay little attention to street names, so you
deo’s surprisingly large hippy community. may need to ask for directions.
Vegetarian meals are predictably good;
meat dishes could be better. 88 Information
San Agustín de Valle Fértil Municipal Tourist Office (General Acha;
h7am-1pm & 5-10pm Mon-Fri, 8am-1pm Sat)
% 02646 / POP 4400 Across from the plaza. Can help arrange car or
mule excursions into the mountain canyons and
Reached via comically undulating highways backcountry.
that cut through the desert landscape, San Post Office (cnr Laprida & Mendoza; h 8am-
Agustín de Valle Fértil makes an excellent 6pm Mon-Fri, 9am-1pm Sat)
base for trips to the nearby Parque Provin- Turismo Vesa (% 02646-420143; www.turismo
cial Ischigualasto. It’s a measure of just how vesa.com; Mitre s/n) For tours to Parque
dry the countryside is that this semi-arid Provincial Ischigualasto, Talampaya, El Chiflón
valley gets called ‘fertile.’ and horseback riding.
Apart from visiting the park, there’s not 88 Getting There & Away
much to do around these parts, but the pon-
derous pace of life here, where people sit on From San Agustín’s bus terminal (Mitre, btwn
the sidewalks on summer evenings greeting Entre Ríos & Mendoza) daily buses head to San
passersby, has mesmerized more than one Juan (AR$130, 4½ hours).
visitor.
T Tours 355
Parque Provincial All visitors to the park must go accompanied M e n d oz a & th e C e ntr a l A n d e s PT oaruqrus e P r o vi n cial I schigualas t o
Ischigualasto by a ranger. The most popular tours run for
three hours and leave on the hour (more or
Also known fittingly as Valle de la Luna (Val- less), with cars forming a convoy and stop-
ley of the Moon; admission AR$160; h8am-6pm), ping at noteworthy points along the way,
this park takes its name from the Diaguita where the ranger explains (in Spanish only)
word for ‘land without life’. Visits here are exactly what it is you’re looking at.
a spectacular step – or drive, as the case
may be – into a world of surreal rock form If you have no private vehicle, an organized
ations, dinosaur remains and glowing red tour is the only feasible way to visit the park.
sunsets. The park is in some ways compara- These are easily organized in San Agustín.
ble to North American national parks such Otherwise ask the tourist office there about
as Bryce Canyon or Zion, except that here, hiring a car and driver. Tour rates (not includ-
time and water have exposed a wealth of ing entry fees) are about AR$800 per person
fossils (some 180 million years old, from the from San Juan (through any travel agency in
Triassic period). town), or about AR$300 per person from San
Agustín. Tours from San Juan generally de-
The park’s museum displays a variety part at 5am and return well after dark.
of fossils, including the carnivorous dino-
saur Herrerasaurus (not unlike Tyranno A variety of other tours (around AR$100
saurus rex), the Eoraptor lunensis (the per person) are available from the visitor
oldest-known predatory dinosaur) and good center here. Options include spectacular
dioramas of the park’s paleoenvironments. full-moon tours (2½ hours) in the five days
around the full moon, treks to the summit
The 630-sq-km park is a desert valley be- of Cerro Morado (three to four hours), and a
tween two sedimentary mountain ranges, 12km circuit of the park on mountain bikes.
the Cerros Colorados in the east and Cerro
Los Rastros in the west. Over millennia, at 4 Sleeping & Eating
every meander in the canyon, the waters of
the nearly dry Río Ischigualasto have carved Visitor Center CAMPGROUND $
distinctive shapes in the malleable red (campsites per person AR$45) There is camping
sandstone, monochrome clay and volcanic at the visitor center, which has a confitería
ash. Predictably, some of these forms have (cafe) serving simple meals (breakfast and
acquired popular names, including Cancha lunch) and cold drinks; dried fruits and bot-
de Bochas (the ball court), El Submarino tled olives from the province are available.
(the submarine) and El Gusano (the worm), There are toilets and showers, but because
among others. The desert flora of algarrobo water is trucked in, don’t count on it. There’s
trees, shrubs and cacti complement the eerie no shade.
landforms.
88 Getting There & Away
From the visitor center, isolated 1748m
Cerro Morado is a three- to four-hour walk, Ischigualasto is about 80km north of San
gaining nearly 800m in elevation and yield- Agustín via RP 510 and a paved lateral road to
ing outstanding views of the surrounding the northwest. Given its size and isolation, the
area. Take plenty of drinking water and only practical way to visit the park is by private
high-energy snacks. vehicle or organized tour. Note that the park
roads are unpaved and some can be impassable
after rain, necessitating an abbreviated trip.
©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
Bariloche & the Lake
District
Includes Why Go?
Bariloche. . . . . . . . . . . 358 Home to some of the country’s most spectacular scenery,
Parque Nacional the Lake District is one of Argentina’s prime tourist desti-
Nahuel Huapi . . . . . . . 368 nations. People come to ski, fish, climb, trek and generally
El Bolsón. . . . . . . . . . . 371 bask in the cool, fresh landscapes created by the huge forests
Villa la Angostura. . . . 375 and glacier-fed lakes.
San Martín de los
Andes. . . . . . . . . . . . . . 378 The paleontological sites and outstanding wineries just
Cerro Chapelco. . . . . . 384 out of the city of Neuquén are well worth stopping off for en
Parque Nacional route; and way, way south is the resort town of Bariloche,
Lanín. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 385 with its picture-postcard location on the banks of the Lago
Chos Malal. . . . . . . . . . 394 Nahuel Huapi.
Neuquén . . . . . . . . . . . 396
Getting away from the crowds is easily done. The lakeside
Best Places villages of Villa Traful and San Martín de los Andes fill up
to Eat for a short time in summer and are blissfully quiet the rest
of the year. To the north, Chos Malal makes an excellent base
¨¨Tres Catorce (p398) for exploring nearby volcanoes, lagoons and hot springs.
¨¨La Gorda (p372)
¨¨La Trattoria de la Famiglia When to Go Rainfall inches/mm
Bianchi (p363) 10/250
¨¨Corazón Contento (p381) Bariloche
¨¨Ñancú Lahuén (p378)
°C/°F Temp
Best Places
to Stay 40/104
¨¨La Casona de Odile Hostel 30/86 8/200
(p372)
¨¨Hostel Bajo Cero (p376) 20/68 6/150
¨¨El Hostal del Río (p390)
¨¨Hostería Chimehuín (p388) 10/50 4/100
¨¨Hostería La Masía (p380)
0/32 2/50
-10/14 J F MAM J 0
J ASOND
Mar–May Warm Jun–Sep Snow Oct–Dec Moder-
days and cool season means ate temperatures
nights make this spectacular moun- and blooming
a great time to tain vistas. wildflowers, so
visit. put your trekking
boots on.
To Parque Archaeologico Chos Malal 357
CHILE Colo Michi-Co (56km); Buta Ranquil (90km);
Aguas Calientes (100km) San Rafael (520km)
Volcán Copahue 4RN0
Copahue
5 (2953m) Lago Caviahue
Barilo che &&tthheeLLaakkeeDDisitsrtircitc tB a r i l o che & t he L a k e D i s t r i c t H i g hl i g h t sVolcánCaviahue
Río NeuquénCallaqui
(3164m)
RPíuoelo
Panamericana Petrohué Volcán Añelo
Lonquimay
(2865m)
Lonquimay Las Lajas Lago
Barreales
Embalse Los 5RP1 R7P 1R5N1
Volcán Barreales Embalse
Región IX Batea 1R7P Mari-Menuco
Mahuida Villa Pehuenia RP Zapala NEUQUÉN
Plaza Huincul
13
Lago RN
Aluminé
22
Lago RP Neuquén 1R7P Villa El 2R3N7
Ñorquinco Aluminé
46
Lago
Volcán Parque Nacional Chocón
Quetrupillán Quillén Rahué Laguna Blanca
(2360m)
Volcán Lago
Villarrica Volcán Tromen Picón Leufú Embalse
(2847m) Lanín Lago Ezequiel
RP Las Coloradas Ramos Mexia
Región X
23 7RP4
Huechulafquen 4RN0 RP
NaciPoanraqluLeLSaaanngínoM6RP0LaolJrolutoísnngAínnHddueeeschahuPeiedArgaudileal Aguada de 6
Guzmán
El Cuy
Lago de los Andes 2R3N7
Lácar Cerro Chapelco
(1340m)
4RN0
Ruta de los RP ay R6P
Siete Lagos Río Lim
63
Paso Cardenal Lago Traful
A Samoré
Villa la Angostura Villa Traful Laguna Río Negro
Cerro Bayo Confluencia 6RP7 Blanca
Lago Nahuel Parque Nacional
Huapi Los Arrayanes Parque Nacional
Nahuel Huapi
Cerro López (2076m) Puerto
Pañuelo Nahuel Huapi
RN
Bariloche 2RN3 Ingeniero
Jacobacci 23
Río Mt Tronador Cerro Catedral
(3554m) (2388m) Maquinchao
Lago Villa
Mascardi Mascardi
2R5N8 ARGENTINA
Cerro Perito
Moreno
Cerro Piltriquitrón 0 50 km
El Bolsón (2260m) 0 25 miles
Parque Nacional
Lago Puelo Lago Puelo
Bariloche & the Lake District Highlights
1 Driving the Ruta de los 3 Basing yourself in 6 Hitting the hippie market
Siete Lagos (p379), aka Bariloche (p358) for some in El Bolsón (p371)
RN 40, a breathtaking road fun mountain adventures. for fresh fruits and other
winding between alpine lakes 4 Getting off the tourist yummies.
and pehuén forests. trail in Chos Malal (p394) 7 Winding down for a few
2 Soaking your worries and out into its spectacular days surrounded by the
away in a bubbling mud bath surrounds. gorgeous scenery of Villa
in the thermal resort town of 5 Following in the footsteps Traful (p377).
Copahue (p392). of dinosaurs at Lago
Barreales (p397).
358 Ba ri lo c h e & th e L a k e D is tri c t GBea trti li on cghTehe r e & Away Officially founded in 1902, the city really
began to attract visitors after the southern
National Parks branch of the Ferrocarril Roca train line ar-
rived in 1934 and architect Ezequiel Bustil-
The spectacular but often crowded Parque lo adapted Central European styles into a
Nacional Nahuel Huapi is the cornerstone tasteful urban plan. Bariloche is now known
of the Lake District’s parks. Bordering it for its alpine architecture, which is given a
to the north, Parque Nacional Lanín gets Patagonian twist through the use of local
fewer trail trampers and has equally spec- hardwoods and unique stone construction,
tacular sights, including Volcán Lanín and as seen in the buildings of Bustillo’s centro
humbling pehuén forests. The tiny Parque cívico (civic center).
Nacional Los Arrayanes is worth a day trip
from Villa la Angostura to check out its The flip side of Bariloche’s gain in popu-
beautiful cinnamon-colored arrayán trees. larity is uncontrolled growth: in the last two
decades the town has suffered, as its quaint
88 Getting There & Away neighborhoods have given way to high-rise
apartments and time-shares. The silver lin-
The region’s two primary ground transport hubs ing is that many accommodations have re-
are Neuquén and Bariloche, where buses arrive mained reasonably priced.
from throughout the country. The main airports
are in these cities, plus San Martín de los Andes, 1 Sights
while smaller ones are in Zapala, Chos Malal and
El Bolsón. All have flights to/from Buenos Aires. Centro Cívico AREA
Bariloche A stroll through Bariloche’s center, with its
beautiful log-and-stone buildings designed
% 0294 / POP 109,300 / ELEV 770M by architect Ezequiel Bustillo, is a must.
Besides, posing for a photo with one of the
Strung out along the shoreline of Lago Na- barrel-toting Saint Bernards makes for a
huel Huapi, in the middle of the national classic Argentine snapshot, and views over
park of the same name, Bariloche (formally the lake are superb. The buildings house the
San Carlos de Bariloche) has one of the most municipal tourist office and the museum.
gorgeous settings imaginable. This, com-
bined with a wealth of summer and winter Museo de la Patagonia MUSEUM
activities in the surrounding countryside,
has helped it become, for better or worse, (%0294-442-2309; Centro Cívico; entry by dona-
the Lake District’s principal destination. tion; h10am-12:30pm & 2-5pm Tue-Fri, 10am-5pm
Sat) The museum is filled with archaeolog-
The soaring peaks of Cerros Catedral, ical and ethnographic materials, life-like
López, Nireco and Shaihuenque (to name stuffed animals and enlightening historical
just a few) – all well over 2000m high – ring evaluations on such topics as Mapuche re-
the town, giving picture-postcard views in sistance to the Conquest of the Desert.
nearly every direction.
2 Activities
These mountains aren’t just for gazing,
though – excellent snow coverage (some- Bariloche and the Nahuel Huapi region are
times exceeding 2m at the end of the sea- among Argentina’s most important outdoor
son) makes this a winter wonderland, and a recreation areas, and numerous operators
magnet for skiers and snowboarders. offer a variety of activities, particularly
horseback riding, mountain biking and
In summertime the nature buffs take white-water rafting.
over, hitting the hills to climb, hike trails,
fish for trout and ride mountain bikes and Mountaineering & Trekking
horses. The park office distributes a brochure with
a simple map, adequate for initial planning,
There’s so much fun to be had that this has that rates hikes as easy, medium or difficult
become the destination for Argentine high and suggests possible loops. Many of these
school students’ end of year celebrations. hikes are detailed in Lonely Planet’s Trek-
And if all this wasn’t enough, Bariloche is king in the Patagonian Andes.
also Argentina’s chocolate capital and the
only thing that approaches the amount of Club Andino Bariloche HIKING
storefront window space dedicated to fresh
chocolate is the infinite number of peculiar (%0294-442-2266; www.clubandino.org; 20 de
gnomes of all sizes and demeanors sold in Febrero 30; h9am-1:30pm & 3-7pm) Provides
nearly every shop downtown.
359
loads of information (including on camp- hire, try Baruzzi Deportes or Martín Pesca-
ing), and issues obligatory permits for trek- dor. Both offer guided fishing trips for about
king in Parque Nacional Nahuel Huapi. It AR$6750 per day for one or two people
also sells trekking maps, all of which include (price is the same either way and includes
mountain-bike trails. Gives information on all equipment, lunch, transportation and
hikers’ refuges in the park. guide). Fishing licenses (AR$360/1080/1440
Skiing per day/week/season) are required and are
Nahuel Huapi’s ski resort, Cerro Catedral available at these shops.
(p370), was once South America’s trendi-
est, and has been superseded only by Las Horseback Riding
Leñas (near Mendoza) and resorts in Chile. Most travel agencies along Av Bartolomé Mi-
Las Leñas has far superior snow (dry pow- tre offer horseback-riding trips.
der), but it lacks Catedral’s strong point:
views. There’s nothing like looking over the Cabalgatas Carol Jones HORSEBACK RIDING Ba ri lo c h e & th e L a k e D is tri c t ABca tri vl oi tci hese
shimmering lakes of Nahuel Huapi from its (%0294-442-6508; www.caroljones.com.ar) For
snowy slopes. something special, contact the amiable
Carol Jones, who offers half-day horseback
Day passes run between AR$550 and riding from her family estancia (ranch) out-
AR$790, depending on the season. If you side of town for AR$1100 per person. The
need lessons, stop into the ski schools at Cer- price includes transportation to/from town
ro Catedral or Club Andino Bariloche. Two- and an excellent asado (barbecue grill) out-
hour private lessons run at about AR$1600. side. She also offers multiday pack trips by
For rental equipment, try Baruzzi De- horse for AR$3000 per person per day.
portes (%0294-442-4922; www.barilochefishing.
com; Urquiza 250; h9am-1pm & 3-6pm Mon-Fri, Cabalgatas Tom Wesley OUTDOORS
9am-1pm Sat) or Martín Pescador (%0294-
442-2275; [email protected]; Rolan- (%0294-444-8193; Av Bustillo, Km15.5) This
do 257; h9am-1pm & 4:30-9pm Mon-Fri, 10am- horseback riding specialist has been long in
the business and has an excellent reputation.
1pm & 6-9pm Sat). Equipment is also available Rafting & Kayaking
on-site. Sets of skis, boots and poles rent for Rafting and kayaking on the Río Limay and
around AR$300, and snowboarding gear the Río Manso have become increasingly
about AR$340 per day. popular in recent years. The best time to be
on the rivers is November through Febru-
Mountain Biking ary, though you can raft October through
Bicycles are ideal for the Circuito Chico Easter.
(though this 60km loop demands endurance)
and other trips near Bariloche; most roads EXtremo Sur
RAFTING
are paved and even the gravel roads are good. (%0294-442-7301; www.extremosur.com; Morales
765; h9am-6pm) In business since 1991, this
Bikeway BICYCLE RENTAL outfit offers several trips on the Río Manso:
the Manso Inferior (Class II to III, AR$1290
(%0294-461-7686; www.bikeway.com.ar; Av Bustil- per person) is suitable for all ages; the Manso
lo Km12.5) Mountain-bike rental, including a la Frontera (Class III to IV, AR$1690 per
gloves and helmet, costs around AR$120 per person, ages 14 and up) is a fun and beautiful
day at a number of places like Bikeway.
Fishing stretch of the river before the Chilean border.
Fly-fishing draws visitors from around the There’s also a three-day Expedición Río
world to Argentina’s accessible Andean-
Patagonian parks, from Lago Puelo and Los Manso (Class III to IV), in which you camp
riverside at excellent facilities.
Alerces in the south to Lanín in the north. Aguas Blancas RAFTING
On larger lakes, such as Nahuel Hua-
(%0294-443-2799; www.aguasblancas.com.ar;
pi, trolling is the preferred method, while Morales 564; h9am-1pm & 3-7pm) This business
fly-fishing is the rule on most rivers. The has an excellent reputation and offers trips
season runs mid-November to mid-April. For on the Río Manso.
more information, contact the Asociación
de Pesca y Caza Nahuel Huapi (Hunting & Pura Vida Patagonia
KAYAKING
Fishing Club; %0294-442-1515; apcnh@speedy. (%0294-15-441-4053; www.puravidapatagonia.
com.ar; cnr Av 12 de Octubre & Onelli; h9am-6pm com.ar) Offers kayaking trips on the Lago
Mon-Sat). For rental equipment and guide Nahuel Huapi, ranging from half-day stints
360
Saavedr
DBariloche e# 0 400 m
0 0.2 miles
Ba ri lo c h e & th e L a k e D is tri c t ABca tr i lv iot icehse
ABCDE FG
La Selva Negra (2km); Lago Nahuel Huapi
Bikeway (10km);
Cabalgatas Tom Wesley
(13km) Puerto San Carlos Ø# 5
1
Plaza Av 12 de Octubre#ï(Costanera) #ï ¨#237 1
ÿ# 16 Italia Provincial ACA
VA O'Connor D
¨#237 Av Juan Manuel de Rosas
French 30 ú# Tourist Perito Moreno #– (13km)
ú# 35 Quaglia Office
ÿ#15 32
Villegas ú# 2
Rolando
Palacios D
Beschtedt
Frey ›# (3km);
John O'Connor £# (3km)
Otto Goedecke
Onelli
Elordi
España 22ÿ#20ÿ#NahPuaJe1ÿ#ru4lTqrHouauuemarMN3ieû#ps8unai2ÿ#tntcO3O3oNiicfo7ffefiû#ni000000p#ïicucaaeme000000l7l #ïeè#æ#000000ye000000r1 20000003ú#â#1#ú2å#ú#72ú#6393#3 39 ú# 28 #ú 26
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2 Main Local 3 de Mayo
8 42 #þ 11 Ticket Office Bartolomé
›#Bus Stop
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Belgrano 25ú# Elflein
20 de Febrero ÿ#21 #
10
3 24 de Septiembÿ#re 13 Gallardo Elflein
24 ÿ# # 4 3
20 de Junio Tiscornia Gallardo
Güemes Morales
ÿ# 17 Quaglia
Villegas
Rolando
Palacios
Beschtedt
Frey
John O'Connor
Otto Goedecke
Onelli
Elordi
Ruiz Moreno
a Albarracín Tiscornia
4 9# Gutiérrez Albarracín 4
Curuzú Cuatiá Anasagasti ¨#258
ABCDE FG
361
Bariloche 22 Hotel Edelweiss .......................................B2
23 Hotel Tirol ................................................. B1
æ Sights 24 Periko's .....................................................C3
1 Centro Cívico........................................... C2
2 Museo de la Patagonia ............................ C1
Ø Activities, Courses & Tours ú Eating Ba ri lo c h e & th e L a k e D is tri c t BC aoruirlsoecshe
3 Adventure Center ................................... C2 25 Alto El Fuego ............................................B2
4 Aguas Blancas......................................... C3 26 Covita .........................................................E1
5 Asociación de Pesca y Caza 27 Días de Zapata .........................................C2
Nahuel Huapi.........................................G1 28 Familia Weiss ............................................E1
6 Baruzzi Deportes .................................... C2 29 Helados Jauja...........................................C2
7 Club Andino Bariloche ........................... C2 30 Kostelo ...................................................... C1
8 Espacio..................................................... C2 31 La Esquina ................................................C2
9 EXtremo Sur ............................................ B4 32 La Fonda del Tio ......................................G2
33 La Marca ...................................................C2
10 La Montaña.............................................. D3 34 La Marmite ...............................................D2
11 Martín Pescador ..................................... D2 35 La Trattoria de la Famiglia Bianchi ....... A1
12 Turisur ...................................................... D2 36 Rock Chicken ...........................................A2
ÿ Sleeping
13 Hospedaje Wikter ................................... B3 û Drinking & Nightlife
14 Hostel 41 Below....................................... B2 37 Los Vikingos .............................................C2
15 Hostel Los Troncos.................................. A1 38 South Bar .................................................B2
16 Hostel Patanuk......................................... A1
17 Hostería La Paleta del Pintor ................ B3 þ Shopping
18 Hosteria La Sureña ................................. A2 39 Abuela Goye .............................................D2
19 Hostería Piuke ..........................................E2 40 Huitral-Hue...............................................D2
20 Hotel Aconcagua..................................... B2 41 Mamuschka..............................................D2
21 Hotel Carlos V ......................................... C3 42 Paseo de los Artesanos ..........................D2
to overnight camp-’n’-kayak trips, custom- down the fabled RN 40 as far as El Calafate.
designed to match your skill level. Trips run from the end of October to April.
Paragliding Bariloche Moto Tours MOTORBIKE TOUR
Parapente Bariloche PARAGLIDING (%0294-446-2687; www.barilochemototours.com)
(%0294-15-455-2403; Cerro Otto base) The Organizes custom motorbike tours to every-
mountains around Bariloche make for spec- where between southern Patagonia and
tacular paragliding. If you wish to take to northern Chile, and beyond.
the sky, it will cost you around AR$1400 for
a 20-minute to half-hour tandem flight with, Espacio BOAT TOUR
among others, Parapente Bariloche. (%0294-443-1372; www.islavictoriayarrayanes.com;
Av Bartolomé Mitre 139) Espacio offers cruises
C Courses on Nahuel Huapi lake in its 40ft catamaran
Cau Cau during summer. Reserve your
La Montaña LANGUAGE COURSE place two days in advance.
(%0294-452-4212; www.lamontana.com; Elflein z Festivals & Events
251, 2nd fl; h9am-4pm Mon-Fri) This is a recom-
mended Spanish school.
In January and February the Festival de
T Tours Música de Verano (Summer Music Festival)
puts on several different events, including
Countless tourist agencies along and near Av the Festival de Música de Cámara (Cham-
Bartolomé Mitre, such as Turisur, run min- ber Music Festival), the Festival de Bronces
ibus tours to the national park and as far (Brass Festival) and the Festival de Música
south as El Bolsón. Prices range from AR$115 Antigua (Ancient Music Festival).
for a half-day trip along the Circuito Chico to
AR$280 to San Martín de los Andes via the At Easter, the Festival Nacional del
scenic Ruta de los Siete Lagos (p379). Chocolate features live music and pa-
rades, not to mention a 9m-high Easter egg
Adventure Center DRIVING TOUR and 150m-long chocolate bar, among other
sweet, sugary attractions.
(%0294-442-8368; www.adventurecenter.com.ar;
Perito Moreno 30; h9am-6pm) Three-day trips
362
On May 3 the Fiesta Nacional de la road to Llao Llao, this is the nearest organ-
Rosa Mosqueta celebrates the fruit of the ized camping area. It has good facilities and,
wild shrub used in many regional delicacies. in the fall, you can step outside your tent to
pick apples.
For 10 days in August, Bariloche holds
its Fiesta Nacional de la Nieve (National Hostel Patanuk HOSTEL $
Snow Festival). (%0294-443-4991; www.patanuk.com; Av Juan
Manuel de Rosas 585; dm/d AR$90/260; W) Ba-
4 Sleeping riloche’s only lakefront hostel is a definite
winner. Big picture windows put you right
From camping and private houses to five- in front of the water and mountains. Hard-
star hotels, Bariloche’s abundant accommo- wood floors, a spacious kitchen and comfy
dations make it possible to find good value lounge round out the picture.
Ba ri lo c h e & th e L a k e D is tri c t BS laerei lpoi ncghe even in high season, when reservations are
a good idea. Prices peak during ski season Hotel Tirol HOTEL $$
(July and August), drop slightly during high (%0294-442-6152; www.hosteriatirol.com.ar; Lib-
season (January and February) and are low- ertad 175; r with city/lake view US$128/148; iW)
est the rest of the year. Right in the middle of town, this charming
little lodge offers comfortable, spacious
Hostel Los Troncos HOSTEL $ rooms. Those out the back have spectacular
(%0294-443-1188; www.hostellostroncos.com. views out over the lake and to the mountain
ar; San Martín 571; dm/d from US$26/63; W) A range beyond, as does the bright sitting/
step above most other hostels in town, the breakfast area.
Troncos offers modern rooms with private
bathrooms and cozy touches such as pri-
vate reading lamps. There’s also a range of Hostería La Paleta del Pintor
HOTEL $$
super comfy hangout areas, an industrial- (%0294-442-2220; www.lapaletadelpintor.com.ar;
sized kitchen and a cute little courtyard 20 de Febrero 630; s/d US$73/90; W) Everything
garden. about this place screams ‘cute,’ but the
rooms are big and airy, with small but spot-
Hostel 41 Below HOSTEL $ less bathrooms and big-screen TVs.
(%0294-443-6433; www.hostel41below.com; Jura
mento 94; dm US$16-19, d without bathroom
US$50; iW) An intimate hostel with clean Hotel Aconcagua HOTEL $$
dorms, fine doubles (with good views) and (%0294-442-4718; www.hotelaconcaguabariloche.
a mellow vibe. The kitchen and common com; San Martín 289; s/d US$67/79; aW) You
room are excellent. can’t beat the central location here, right on
the main drag and the lake/mountain views
out the back windows are pretty stunning as
Periko’s HOSTEL $ well. The rooms themselves are aging a bit,
(%0294-452-2326; www.perikos.com; Morales 555;
dm US$180, d with/without bathroom US$54/45; but the whole place is neat as a pin and very
well run.
iW) An atmospheric little hostel set up
on the hill overlooking town. There’s a good
variety of rooms on offer, excellent common Hotel Carlos V HOTEL $$
(%0294-442-5474; www.carlosvpatagonia.com.
areas and kitchen and you can get some ar; Morales 420; s/d US$110/133; iW) At first
good-quality info from the on-site travel glance a fairly standard business hotel, the
agency. Carlos V has plenty of hidden charm. That,
the central location and the good-sized
Hospedaje Wikter HOTEL $ rooms make it hard to beat.
(%0294-442-3248; www.hospedajewikter.com.ar;
Güemes 566; s/d US$35/60; W) Up the hill
away from the center, this friendly little Hostería Piuke HOTEL $$
hospedaje offers spacious rooms in a bright, (%0294-442-3044; [email protected]; F Bes-
modern building. Bathrooms are bigger chtedt 136; s/d US$69/87; W) One of the better-
than most in this price range and some value hotels down near the lakefront, this
rooms have good views. one has good-sized, comfortable rooms and
some very hip retro ’70s furnishings.
La Selva Negra CAMPGROUND $ Hosteria La Sureña HOTEL $$
(%0294-444-1013; www.campingselvanegra.com.
ar; Av Bustillo, Km2.950; campsites per person (%0294-442-2013; www.hosterialasurena.com.ar;
San Martín 432; s/d US$68/79; W) A cozy, hec-
US$12) Located 3km west of town on the tically decorated lobby leads on to a wide
363
variety of rooms – some are spacious and chicken here won’t be winning any culinary
well-appointed, others are workaday and awards, but they get the job done.
cramped. Have a look at a few if you can.
oLa Trattoria de la Famiglia
Hotel Edelweiss HOTEL $$$ Bianchi ITALIAN $$
(%0294-444-5500; www.edelweiss.com.ar; San
Martín 202; s/d from US$164/248; iWs) One (%0294-442-1596; España 590; mains AR$120-
180; hnoon-11:30pm; W) Finally, an Italian
of the better business-class hotels in town, restaurant that offers something different.
the Edelweiss manages to retain a warmth Excellent, creative pastas, a good range of
despite its size. All the facilities are here, meat dishes and some wonderful risottos,
including a fantastic 7th-floor day spa and with ingredients such as seafood and wild
swimming pool. mushrooms.
5 Eating Alto El Fuego PARRILLA $$ Ba ri lo c h e & th e L a k e D is tri c t BE atriinl og che
(%0294-443-7015; 20 de Febrero 445; mains
Bariloche has some of Argentina’s best food, AR$130-250; hnoon-3pm & 8pm-midnight; W)
and it would take several wallet-breaking, The most frequently recommended parrilla
belt-bursting and intestinally challenging in town, featuring the killer combination of
weeks to sample all of the worthwhile res- great cuts of meat and a well-chosen wine
taurants. Regional specialties, including list. It’s a small place – if you’re coming for
cordero (lamb, cooked over an open flame), dinner, make a reservation. Or (if weather
jabalí (wild boar), ciervo (venison) and tru- permits) go for lunch and take advantage of
cha (trout), are especially worth trying. the breezy deck area.
Covita VEGETARIAN $ La Esquina CAFE $$
(%0294-442-1708; VA O’Connor 511; mains
AR$30-60; hnoon-3pm Mon-Sat, 8-11pm Fri & Sat; (cnr Urquiza & Perito Moreno; mains AR$140-220;
h9am-midnight; W) The most atmospheric
v) Wonderfully healthy cafe that caters to confitería (cafe offering light meals) in town
macrobiotic, vegan and even raw-food diets.
Choose from salads, stirfries, curries, and su- has good coffee, reasonably priced sand-
wiches and burgers, and some good regional
shi, among others. Fresh organic juices, too. specialties.
La Fonda del Tio ARGENTINE $ Familia Weiss ARGENTINE $$
(Av Bartolomé Mitre 1130; mains AR$60-120;
hnoon-3:30 & 8pm-midnight) No tourist non- (Palacios 167; mains AR$120-180; hnoon-4pm &
8pm-midnight Mon-Thu, noon-midnight Fri-Sun;
sense here – just big servings of straight-up W) A popular family restaurant offering
Argentine classics. It’s a short menu, which
changes daily, so it’s always worth popping good-value regional specialties such as
venison, trout and goulash. The picture
in to see what’s on offer. menu is handy for the Spanish-challenged,
La Marca INTERNATIONAL $ there’s a good atmosphere and nightly live
music.
(Urquiza 240; mains AR$100-160; hnoon-
midnight; W) Upscale parrilla (steak restau-
rant) with reasonable (for Bariloche) prices. Días de Zapata MEXICAN $$
(%0294-442-3128; Morales 362; mains AR$120-
Choose from the impressive range of bro- 160; hnoon-3:30pm & 7pm-midnight; W) A
chettes (shasliks) – beef, chicken, venison,
lamb and salmon. On a sunny day, grab a warm and inviting little Mexican restaurant.
Dishes tend more toward the Tex Mex than
garden table at the side. you would think (the owners hail from Mex-
Helados Jauja ICE CREAM $ ico City), but the flavors are good and the
servings generous.
(Perito Moreno 48; ice cream from AR$35; h9am-
11:30pm) Ask anyone in town who serves the
best ice cream in Bariloche and they’ll reply Kostelo INTERNATIONAL $$
(%0294-443-9697; Quaglia 111; mains AR$130-
with one word: ‘Jauja.’ Many say it’s the best 220; hnoon-3pm & 8pm-midnight Tue-Sun; W)
in the country.
Modern and upscale bar-restaurant best for
its location right near the lake. The food isn’t
Rock Chicken FAST FOOD $ bad, however – creative, well-presented and
(San Martín 234; mains AR$75-120; h10am-
late) Late night munchies? Midday junk- with decent portions. Try to get a table with
water view.
food cravings? The beef, burgers and fried
36 4 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
WALTER BIBIKOW/GETTY IMAGES ©
365
ELENAMIRAGE/GETTY IMAGES ©
ALEXANDRE CAPPI/GETTY IMAGES ©
ALFREDO MAIQUEZ/GETTY IMAGES ©
1. Bariloche (p358) 3. San Martín de los
The Lake District’s principal Andes (p378)
destination is also Argentina’s Cerro Chapelco attracts
chocolate capital. snowboarders and skiiers.
2. Parque Nacional Los 4. Laguna Frias (p370)
Arrayanes (p375) This peaceful lake is in Parque
Hike among cinnamon-colored Nacional Nahuel Huapi (p368),
arrayán trees at this small but one of Argentina’s most
diverse national park. popular national parks.
366
La Marmite ARGENTINE $$ oMamuschka FOOD
(%0294-442-3685; Av Bartolomé Mitre 329; mains
AR$130-200; hnoon-1am; W) A trusty choice (%0294-442-3294; Av Bartolomé Mitre 298;
h9:15am-10pm) Quite simply, the best choco-
for Patagonian standards such as trout and late in town. Don’t skip it. Seriously.
venison. Also the place to come for choco-
late fondue (AR$300 for two), in case you Abuela Goye FOOD
haven’t eaten enough of the stuff cold. (%0294-443-3861; Av Bartolomé Mitre 258;
h9:30am-7:30pm) Another of Bariloche’s
6 Drinking & Nightlife long-time chocolate makers. Still small and
still worth trying.
Los Vikingos BAR
(cnr Juramento & 20 de Febrero; h7pm-3am Mon- Huitral-Hue CLOTHING
Sat) A laid-back little corner bar serving a
Ba ri lo c h e & th e L a k e D is tri c t BD ar ri ni lkoi ncghe& N i g h t l i fe good range of local microbrewery beers at (%0294-442-6760; Villegas 250; h9:30am-1pm &
4:30-9:30pm Mon-Sat) Good selection of tradi-
excellent prices. The music’s cool and the de- tional ponchos, textiles and wool sweaters.
cor eclectic. DJs play on weekends.
Paseo de los Artesanos HANDICRAFTS
South Bar BAR (cnr Villegas & Perito Moreno; hsunrise-sunset)
(Juramento s/n; h8pm-4am) Mellow local pub Local craftspeople display wares of wool,
where you can actually have a conversation
while you drink your beer. Darts, too. wood, leather, silver and other media here.
7 Shopping 88 Orientation
Bariloche is renowned for its chocolates, and The principal commercial area is along Av Bar-
dozens of stores downtown, from national tolomé Mitre. Do not confuse VA O’Connor (also
chains to mom-and-pop shops, sell choco- known as Vicealmirante O’Connor or Eduardo
lates of every style imaginable. Quality, of O’Connor) with similarly named John O’Connor,
course, varies: don’t get sick on the cheap which cross each other near the lakefront. Sim-
stuff. ilarly, Perito Moreno and Ruiz Moreno intersect
near Diagonal Capraro, at the east end of the
downtown area.
THE CRUCE DE LAGOS
One of Argentina’s classic journeys is the Cruce de Lagos, a scenic 12-hour bus-and-boat
trip over the Andes to Puerto Montt, Chile. Operated exclusively by Turisur (%0294-
442-6109; www.cruceandino.com; Mitre 219, Bariloche; per person AR$1650), the trip begins
around 8am in Bariloche (departure times vary) with a shuttle from Turisur’s office to
Puerto Pañuelo near Hotel Llao Llao. The passenger ferry from Puerto Pañuelo leaves
immediately after the shuttle arrives so, if you want to have tea at Llao Llao, get there
ahead of time on your own (but make sure you bought your ticket in advance). Service
is daily in the summer, Monday to Friday the rest of the year. In winter (mid-April to Sep-
tember) the trip takes two days and passengers are required to stay the night in Peulla,
Chile, where you have the choice of Hotel Natura Patagonica (%in Chile 65-297-2289;
www.hotelnatura.cl; s/d US$211/220; iW) or the Hotel Peulla (%in Chile 65-297-2288;
www.hotelpeulla.cl; s/d US$138/146; iW). There used to be a more economical option at
Puerto Blest, but it was closed at time of research. Ask about this option at Turisur.
Bicycles are allowed on the boats, and sometimes on the buses (provided you dis-
mantle them), so cyclists may end up having to ride the stretches between Bariloche and
Pañuelo (25km), Puerto Blest and Puerto Alegre (15km), Puerto Frías and Peulla (27km),
and Petrohué and Puerto Montt (76km); the tourist office in Bariloche (p367) may
have info about alternative transportation between Petrohué and Puerto Montt for cy-
clists hoping to avoid the ride.
In winter it’s not possible to purchase tickets only for segments of the trip (except
between Puerto Pañuelo and Puerto Blest; AR$750). In summer (December to April) it’s
possible to buy just the boat sections (AR$900). Either way, if you’re cycling Turisur will
cut your rate slightly since you won’t be riding the buses. Though the trip rarely sells out,
it’s best to book it at least a day or two in advance.
367
88 Information (AR$350, five hours) and Puerto Montt
(AR$375, six hours), which has onward connec-
Banks with ATMs are ubiquitous in the down tions to northern and southern Chilean destina-
town area. tions. Several companies make the run.
ACA (Automóvil Club Argentino; % 0294-442-
3001; Av 12 de Octubre 785) Argentina’s auto To San Martín de los Andes and Junín de los
club has provincial road maps. Andes, Albus, Transportes Ko-Ko and Turismo
Cambio Sudamérica (Av Bartolomé Mitre Algarrobal (% 0294-442-7698) take the scenic
63; h 9am-8pm Mon-Fri, to 1pm Sat) Change (though possibly chokingly dusty) Ruta de los
foreign cash and traveler’s checks here. Siete Lagos (RN 40) during summer, and the
Hospital (% 0294-442-6100; Perito Moreno longer, paved La Rinconada (RN 237) route
601) Long waits, no charge. during the rest of the year.
Municipal Tourist Office (% 0294-442-3022;
Centro Cívico; h 8am-9pm) It has many give Buses from Bariloche
aways, including useful maps and the blatantly
commercial but still useful Guía Busch, updated DESTINATION COST (AR$) TIME (HR) Ba ri lo c h e & th e L a k e D is tri c t IBnafroi lromcahtei o n
biannually and loaded with basic tourist infor- Bahía Blanca 1100 12-14
mation about Bariloche and the Lake District. Buenos Aires 1784 20-23
Parque Nacional Nahuel Huapi Office Córdoba 1619 22
(% 0294-442-3111; San Martín 24; h 8am-4pm El Bolsón 123 2
Mon-Fri, 9am-3pm Sat & Sun) Office for the Esquel 290 4½
nearby national park (p368). Junín de los Andes 145 3
Post Office (Moreno 175; h 8am-6pm Mon-Fri, Mendoza 1375 19
9am-1pm Sat) Neuquén 512 7
Provincial Tourist Office (% 0294-442-3188, Río Gallegos 1483 28
0294-442-3189; [email protected]; San Martín de los 177 4
cnr Av 12 de Octubre & Emilio Frey; h 9am- Andes
7pm) Has information on the province, includ- San Rafael 1133 15
ing an excellent provincial map and useful Viedma 950 12
brochures in English and Spanish. Villa la Angostura 60 1½
88 Getting There & Away Train
As troubled as any of the intercity train
AIR lines, when it’s running the Tren Patagonico
Aerolíneas Argentinas (% 0294-443-3304; (% 02944-423172; www.trenpatagonico-sa.
Av Bartolomé Mitre 185; h 9am-7pm Mon-Fri, com.ar) leaves the train station (% 02944-
to 1pm Sat) has flights to Buenos Aires twice 423172), across the Río Ñireco next to the bus
daily Monday through Wednesday and three terminal. If it is operating, it generally leaves
times daily the rest of the week. In high season Bariloche for Viedma (16 hours) at 5pm on most
there are direct weekly flights to Córdoba and Sundays (and the occasional Monday); fares will
El Calafate and possibly Ushuaia. probably range from AR$562 in primera (first
class seated) to AR$1123 in camarote (1st-
LAN (% 0810-999-9526; www.lan.com; Av class sleeper). All this information is incredibly
Bartolomé Mitre 534; h 9am-2pm & 3-6pm fluid – it’s best to check with the tourist office
Mon-Sat) flies to Chile and Buenos Aires, and beforehand.
LADE (% 0294-442-3562; www.lade.com.ar;
John O’Connor 214; h 9am-3pm Mon-Sat) cov- 88 Getting Around
ers southern destinations.
TO/FROM THE AIRPORT
BOAT Bariloche’s airport is 15km east of town via
It’s possible to travel by boat and bus to Chile RN 237 and RP 80. A remise (taxi) costs about
aboard the Cruce de Lagos (p366) tour. AR$140. Bus 72 (AR$15) leaves from the main
bus stop on Perito Moreno.
BUS
Bariloche’s bus terminal (% 0294-443-2860) BUS
and train station are east of town across the At the main local bus stop (Perito Moreno, btwn
Río Ñireco on RN 237. Shop around for the best Rolando & Palacios), Codao del Sur and Ómnibus
deals, since fares vary and there are frequent 3 de Mayo run hourly buses to Cerro Catedral.
promotions. During high season it’s wise to buy
tickets at least a day in advance. The bus termi-
nal tourist office is helpful.
The principal route to Chile is over the
Cardenal A Samoré (Puyehue) pass to Osorno
368 Ba ri lo c h e & th e L a k e D is tri c t GPea rt qt ui negNAarcoi ounadl N ahuel H uap i Parque Nacional
Codao uses Av de los Pioneros, while 3 de Mayo Nahuel Huapi
takes Av Bustillo.
From 6am to midnight, municipal bus 20 % 02944
leaves the main bus stop every 20 minutes for
the attractive lakeside settlements of Llao Llao One of Argentina’s most-visited national
and Puerto Pañuelo. Bus 10 goes to Colonia parks, Nahuel Huapi (%0294-442-3111; admis-
Suiza 14 times daily. During summer three of sion AR$120) occupies 7500 sq km in moun-
these, at 8:05am, noon and 5:40pm, continue to tainous southwestern Neuquén and western
Puerto Pañuelo, allowing you to do most of the Río Negro provinces. The park’s centerpiece
Circuito Chico using public transport. Departure is Lago Nahuel Huapi, a glacial remnant
times from Puerto Pañuelo back to Bariloche via over 100km long that covers more than 500
Colonia Suiza are 9:40am, 1:40pm and 6:40pm. sq km. To the west, a ridge of high peaks
You can also walk any section and flag down separates Argentina from Chile; the tallest
buses en route. is 3554m Monte Tronador, an extinct volca-
Ómnibus 3 de Mayo buses 50 and 51 go to no that still lives up to its name (meaning
Lago Gutiérrez every 30 minutes, while in ‘Thunderer’) when blocks of ice tumble from
summer the company’s Línea Mascardi goes to its glaciers. During the summer months,
Villa Mascardi/Los Rápidos three times daily. wildflowers blanket the alpine meadows.
Ómnibus 3 de Mayo’s Línea El Manso goes twice
on Friday to Río Villegas and El Manso, on the Nahuel Huapi was created to preserve
southwestern border of Parque Nacional Nahuel local flora and fauna, including its Andean-
Huapi. Patagonian forests and rare animals. The
Buses 70, 71 and 83 stop at the main bus stop, important animal species include the hue-
connecting downtown with the bus terminal. mul (Andean deer) and the miniature deer
known as pudú. Most visitors are unlikely
CAR to see either of these, but several species of
Bariloche is loaded with the standard car-rental introduced deer are common, as are native
agencies and is one of the cheapest places to birds.
rent in the country. Prices vary greatly depend-
ing on season and demand, but usually come in Circuito Chico
around AR$400 per day, with 200km.
Andes (%0294-443-1648; www.andesrenta One of the area’s most popular and scenic
car.com.ar; San Martín 162; h9am-6pm) driving excursions, the Circuito Chico be-
Budget (%0294-444-2482; www.budget gins on Av Bustillo, on Bariloche’s outskirts,
bariloche.com; Av Bartolomé Mitre 717; and continues to the tranquil resort of Llao
h9am-7pm) Llao. At Cerro Campanario the Aerosilla
Hertz (%0294-442-3457; www.hertz.com.ar; Campanario (%0294-442-7274; return AR$150;
Elflein 190; h9am-9pm) h9am-5:30pm) lifts passengers to a pano-
ramic view of Lago Nahuel Huapi.
TAXI
A taxi from the bus terminal to the center of Llao Llao’s Puerto Pañuelo is the point
town costs around AR$40. Taxis within town of departure for the boat and bus excursion
generally don’t go over the AR$25 mark. across the Andes to Chile, as well as to Par-
que Nacional Los Arrayanes on Península
BARILOCHE BUS CARDS Quetrihué.
Bariloche’s local buses work with mag- Even if you don’t plan to spend a night in
netic cards that can be purchased at Hotel Llao Llao (%0294-444-8530; www.llao
the 3 de Mayo ticket office (%0294- llao.com.ar; d from US$374; aiWs), arguably
442-5648; Perito Moreno 480), downtown Argentina’s most famous hotel, take a stroll
or at the bus terminal. You can also pick around the grounds. It was once featured on
up handy horarios (schedules) for all the one-peso banknote, when such a thing
destinations from these offices. Cards existed. From Llao Llao you can head across
cost AR$20 (recharged with howev- to Colonia Suiza, named for its early Swiss
er much credit you want). For most colonists. A modest confitería has excellent
routes a ride will cost AR$9, with AR$15 pastries, and there are several campgrounds
being the highest fare. Some hostels and even a hostel.
loan cards to guests on payment of a
deposit. The road passes the trailhead to 2076m
Cerro López, a three-hour climb, before
returning to Bariloche. At the top of Cerro
369
Parque Nacional Nahuel Huapi 0 20 km
0 10 miles
Paso Hua 4RP8 San Martín Junín de los
Hum (659m) de los Andes Andes (41km)
See Parque Nacional Lanín Map (p386)
Lago Lago Lago Playa Catrite
Queñi Nonthué Lácar
4RN0
CHILE Lago Arroyo
Escondido Partido Cerro
Lago Chapelco
Machónico (1340m)
Lago
Hermoso Lago
Melinquina
Cascada Vullignanco Ba ri lo c h e & th e L a k e D is tri c t GPea rt qt ui negNAarcoi ounadl N ahuel H uap iParque
Río LimayLa Ruta de los Siete LagosNacional
Lago Lago
anso Villarino Falkner Lanín
4RN0
Lago RP Paso del
Traful Córdoba
63
Puyehue (58km); Lago Lago RP 2R3N7
Osorno (106km) Espejo Correntoso Río Traful
65
Cerro Villa
Bayo Traful
Villa la Angostura Confluencia
Quetrihué Puerto Manzano
Península Lago
Parque Nacional Nahuel Parque
Los Arrayanes Huapi Nacional
Nahuel Huapi
Isla RN
Victoria
237
RN Nahuel
231
Paso de Puerto Blest Huapi
Pérez Rosales
Puerto Alegre Llao Llao RP
Peulla (5km); Colonia Suiza Puerto Pañuelo 23
Puerto Montt (60km) Puerto Frías Cerro Otto RP
(1405m)
Paso de las Nubes Cerro López 80
Parque Nacional Refugio (2076m) Bariloche
V Pérez Rosales Otto Meiling Catedral Piedras
Pampa Cerro (2388m) Lago Blancas
Monte Linda
Tronador Ventisquero Gutiérrez
(3554m) Negro
Lago Lago Lago
Fonck Hess Mascardi
RP Villa Mascardi
81
Lago Lago
Martín Guillelmo
Río M
RN ARGENTINA
40
Lago
Steffan
370 Ba ri lo c h e & th e L a k e D is tri c t GPea rt qt ui negNAarcoi ounadl N ahuel H uap i more on rock climbing in the area, including
López it’s possible to spend the night at the guided trips and equipment hire, contact
Refugio López (%0294-15-458-4459; www. Club Andino in Bariloche (p358).
cerrolopez.com; dm about US$25; hmid-Dec–mid-
Apr), where meals are also available. Hostería Knapp (%0294-446-0460; www.
Although travel agencies offer the knappcerrocatedral.com.ar; r per person from
Circuito Chico as a half-day tour (AR$115 US$108; W) is at the base of the lifts. Alter-
through most agencies in Bariloche), it’s eas- natively you can stay in Bariloche; public
ily done on public transportation or, if you’re transportation from there is excellent, con-
up for a 60km pedal, by bike. Less enthusias- sisting of hourly buses from downtown with
tic cyclists can hop a bus to Km18.6 and rent Ómnibus 3 de Mayo.
a bike at Bike Cordillera (%0294-452-4828;
www.cordillerabike.com; per day AR$300; h9am- Monte Tronador & Pampa Linda
6pm). This way you’ll bike much less, avoid
busy Av Bustillo and take advantage of the Traveling via Lago Mascardi, it’s a full-day
loop’s more scenic sections. Call ahead to trip up a dusty, single-lane dirt road to Pam-
reserve a bike. pa Linda to visit the Ventisquero Negro
(Black Glacier) and the base of Tronador
Cerro Otto (3554m). Visitors are rewarded with views
of dozens of waterfalls plunging over the
Cerro Otto (1405m) is an 8km hike on a grav- flanks of extinct volcanoes.
el road west from Bariloche. There’s enough
traffic to make hitchhiking feasible, and it’s From Pampa Linda – the starting point
also a steep and tiring but rewarding bicycle for several excellent hikes – hikers can ap-
route. The Teleférico Cerro Otto (%0294- proach the snow-line Club Andino Refugio
444-1035; Av de Los Pioneros, Km5; adult/child Otto Meiling (dm US$30) on foot (about four
AR$200/140) carries passengers to the sum- to six hours’ hiking time) and continue to La-
mit; a free bus leaves Bariloche from the guna Frías via the Paso de las Nubes; it’s
corner of Av Bartolomé Mitre and Villegas a five- to seven-hour walk to an elevation of
or Perito Moreno and Independencia to the 2000m. It’s also possible to complete the trip
mountain base. in the opposite direction by taking Turisur’s
ferry from Puerto Pañuelo to Puerto Blest,
There’s a trail from the small Piedras and then hiking up the Río Frías to Paso de
Blancas ski resort to Club Andino’s Refu- las Nubes, before descending to Pampa Lin-
gio Berghof (dm US$19), at an elevation of da via the Río Alerce. The refugio itself pre-
1240m. At the time of research this refugio pares delicious meals (around AR$220-300,
was only operating as a day shelter – check kitchen use AR$100) and is well stocked with
with Club Andino Bariloche (p358) for the good wine and beer. You can hire a guide at
latest. The refugio also contains the Mu- the refugio to take you on a number of ex-
seo de Montaña Otto Meiling (guided visit cursions, which range from a three-hour hike
AR$30), named for a pioneering climber. to a nearby glacier to the multiday ascent of
Cumbre Argentina on Tronador.
Cerro Catedral
Climbers intending to scale Tronador
This 2388m peak (%0294-440-9000; www.cate should anticipate a three- to four-day tech-
dralaltapatagonia.com; hmid-Jun–mid-Oct), 20km nical climb requiring experience on rock,
southwest of Bariloche, is the area’s most im- snow and ice.
portant snow-sports center. Several chairlifts
and the Aerosilla Cerro Bellavista (%0294- The road to Pampa Linda passes Los
440-9000; AR$260) carry passengers up to Rápidos, after which it becomes extremely
2000m, where there’s a restaurant-c onfitería narrow. Traffic is therefore allowed up to
offering excellent panoramas. Pampa Linda until 2pm. At 4pm cars are al-
lowed to leave Pampa Linda for the return
Several trekking trails begin here: one trip. For AR$130 one way, Club Andino Ba-
relatively easy four-hour walk goes to Club riloche (p358) has summer transportation
Andino’s Refugio Emilio Frey (dm AR$180), (end of November to April) to Pampa Linda
where 40 beds and simple meals (AR$130) at 8:30am daily, returning around 5pm. Bus-
are available, as are kitchen facilities es depart from in front of Club Andino, and
(AR$45). This refugio itself is exposed, but the 90km ride takes about 2½ hours. Park
there are sheltered tent sites in what is also entry fees (AR$120) must be paid en route
Argentina’s prime rock-climbing area. For at the ranger station at Villa Mascardi (the
bus stops so you can do this).
4 Sleeping 371
In addition to the campgrounds in the Ba- The town welcomes backpackers, who of- Ba ri lo c h e & th e L a k e D is tri c t ESlleBeopli nsógn
riloche area, there are sites at Lago Gutiér- ten find it a relief from Bariloche’s commer-
rez, Lago Mascardi, Lago Guillelmo, Lago cialism and find themselves stuffing their
Los Moscos, Lago Roca and Pampa Linda. bellies with natural and vegetarian foods,
Refugios are mostly open from December and the excellent beer, sweets, jams and
to the end of April. Reservations are not honey made from the local harvest.
accepted – beds are allocated on a first
come, first served basis, but a space will al- Rows of poplars lend a Mediterranean ap-
ways be found (maybe on the floor) for who- pearance to the local chacras (farms), most
ever arrives. of which are devoted to hops (El Bolsón pro-
duces nearly three-quarters of the country’s
Within the park are a number of hotels hops) and fruits.
tending to the luxurious, though there is
also the moderately priced Hostería Pampa Motorists should note that El Bolsón is
Linda (%0294-449-0517; www.hosteriapampa the northernmost spot to purchase gasoline
linda.com.ar; s/d with half board US$160/220) in at Patagonian discount prices (although re-
the southern foothills of Cerro Tronador. cent decreases in subsidies have seen the dif-
For a real treat, stay at the secluded Hotel ference drop to around AR$1 per liter).
Tronador (%0294-449-0556; www.hoteltrona
dor.com; s/d from US$106/123; hNov–mid-Apr), 1 Sights & Activities
at the northwest end of Lago Mascardi on
the Pampa Linda road. The principal landmark in town is the ovoid
Plaza Pagano. Most services are nearby.
88 Information
oFeria Artesanal MARKET
A good source of information about the park is
the Nahuel Huapi national park office (p367) (h10am-4pmTue,Thu,Sat & Sun) S Local craft-
in Bariloche. speople sell their wares at this market, along
the eastern edge of Plaza Pagano, which
For trekking maps and information about boasts over 300 artists, who make and sell
hiking in the region, see Lonely Planet’s Trekking everything from wooden cutting boards and
in the Patagonian Andes by Carolyn McCarthy handcrafted mate (a bitter ritual tea) gourds
or, if you read Spanish, the locally published Las to jewelry, flutes and marionettes. With nu-
Montañas de Bariloche by Toncek Arko and Raúl merous food vendors (adhering to the regu
Izaguirre. lation that everything sold in the market
must be handmade), it’s also a chance to
88 Getting There & Around sample local delicacies. On sunny Sundays
the feria (market) operates about half-tilt.
Parque Nacional Estado de Rutas (%105)
For road conditions in and around the national Grado 42 RAFTING
parks, call the toll-free number.
(%0294-449-3124; www.grado42.com; Av Belgrano
El Bolsón 406; h8:30am-8:30pm Mon-Sat, 10:30am-1pm &
5-7pm Sun) For adventures in the surrounding
% 0294 / POP 17,000 / ELEV 300M countryside, this company offers extensive
trekking, mountain biking and other tours
It’s not hard to see why the hippies started around El Bolsón, and rafting on the Río
flocking to El Bolsón back in the ’70s. It’s a Manso. Trips on the Manso Inferior (Class
mellow little village for most of the year, nes- II to III) cost AR$960 per person (including
tled in between two mountain ranges. When snack); on the Manso a la Frontera (Class II to
summer comes, it packs out with Argentine IV) trips cost AR$1490 (including breakfast).
tourists who drop big wads of cash and dis-
appear quietly to whence they came. El Tabano BICYCLE RENTAL
In the last 30-odd years El Bolsón has (%0294-449-3093; Perito Moreno 2871; h9am-
been declared both a non-nuclear zone and 6pm Mon-Sat) Rents bikes for AR$60/200 per
an ‘ecological municipality’ (are you getting hour/day.
the picture yet?). What’s indisputable is that
just out of town are some excellent, easily z Festivals & Events
accessible hikes that take in some of the
country’s (if possibly not the world’s) most Local beer gets headlines during the Fes-
gorgeous landscapes. tival Nacional del Lúpulo (National Hops
Festival), over four days in mid-February. El
Bolsón also hosts a weekend jazz festival
(www.elbolsonjazz.com.ar) in December.
372 ing break from El Bolsón’s stale accommo-
dation scene, the Escampada is all modern
4 Sleeping design, with light, airy rooms and a relaxed
atmosphere.
Budget travelers are more than welcome in
El Bolsón, where reasonable prices are the
rule rather than the exception.
oLa Casona de Odile Hostel HOSTEL $ Hostería San Jorge HOSTEL $$
(%0294-449-1313; www.sanjorgepatagonico.com;
(%0294-449-2753; www.odile.com.ar; dm/d Perito Moreno & Azcuénaga; s/d US$65/90; W)
US$18/5 5; iW) S Five kilometers north of
the center is one of the best hostels in the Big, spotless rooms set around a cute lit-
tle garden in a great central location. The
country. Set on two hectares of park-like breakfast buffet featuring home-made yum-
rivers ide land, this is one of those places you
come to for a couple of days and find your- mies adds to the appeal.
Ba ri lo c h e & th e L a k e D is tri c t ESlleBeopli nsógn self there two weeks later. 5 Eating
Traveler-run, it’s got all you could pos-
sibly want – good amenities, comfy dorms El Bolsón’s restaurants lack Bariloche’s va-
and rooms, an on-site microbrewery, yoga riety, but food is consistently good value
classes, massage, cheap, hearty dinners and and often outstanding, thanks to fresh local
bike hire. ingredients and careful preparation. Tru-
cha arco iris (rainbow trout) is the local
La Casa del Arbol HOSTEL $ specialty.
(%0294-472-0176; www.hostelelbolson.com; Peri-
to Moreno 3038; dm from US$16, d with/without
bathroom from US$47/40; iW) A great little Feria Artesanal MARKET $
(Plaza Pagano; h10am-4pm Tue, Thu, Sat & Sun)
hostel, with a couple of good private rooms, S The market is the best and most econom-
spacious dorms and excellent kitchen, living
and outdoor areas. ical place to eat. Goodies here include fresh
fruit, Belgian waffles with berries and cream,
huge empanadas for AR$10, sandwiches, fri-
Hostería Luz de Luna HOTEL $ tatas, milanesa de soja (soy patties), locally
(%0294-449-1908; www.luzdeluna.guiapatagonia.
net; Dorrego 150; s/d US$55/75; W) Although brewed beer and regional desserts.
spacious, the rooms here manage to retain La Salteñita FAST FOOD $
a pleasant, homelike feel. Individual dec-
oration and spotless bathrooms add to the (Av Belgrano 515; empanadas AR$10; h10am-
9pm) For spicy northern empanadas, try this
appeal. Go for one upstairs for better light cheap rotisserie.
and views.
Jauja ICE CREAM $
Camping Refugio (Av San Martín 2867; cones from AR$35; h8am-
Patagónico CAMPGROUND $ 11pm; W) The most dependable confíteria
(%0294-448-3888; www.refugiopatagonico.com.
ar; Islas Malvinas s/n; campsites per person US$7, (cafe offering light meals) in town serves up
all your faves with some El Bolsón touches
dm/d US$14/100; W) Not bad as far as camp- (such as homemade bread and strawberry
grounds go – basically a bare field, but a
pleasant stream burbles alongside it. Servic- juice) thrown in. The daily specials are al-
es are good, including asados and a modern ways worth checking out – the risotto with
lamb and wild mushrooms is divine. The
toilet block. If you’re looking for a room, attached ice-creamery is legendary – make
there are much better deals elsewhere.
sure you leave room for a kilo or two.
La Posada de Hamelin GUESTHOUSE $$ oLa Gorda INTERNATIONAL $$
(%0294-449-2030; www.posadadehamelin.com.
ar; Granollers 2179; s/d US$70/90; W) A beau- (%0294-472-0559; 25 de Mayo 2709; mains
AR$130-190; h7-11:30pm Tue-Sun) This is El
tiful little rustic getaway. There are only Bolsón’s don’t-miss eating spot. Huge por-
four rooms, but they’re all gorgeous, with
exposed beams and rough-hewn walls. The tions of delicious, well-prepared food in
relaxed, stylish surrounds. Good vegetarian
sunny upstairs dining area is a great place options, a couple of Asian dishes, fine cuts
to munch on an empanada (baked savory
turnover). of meat and some interesting sides. If it’s a
warm night, try for a garden table. Bookings
highly recommended either way.
Hostería La Escampada HOTEL $$
(%0294-448-3905; www.laescampada.com.ar;
Azcuénaga 561; s/d US$60/100; W) A refresh-
373
El Bolsón e# 0 400 m
A 0 0.2 miles
B C D
La Casona de
Castello
Odile Hostel
(5km)
José HernándezRivadavia
1 1 Azcuénaga Av Sarmiento EPslpaazñaa 11 1
ÿ#8
11 Av San Martín D ú#HerJnoásnédez
Larrea
111
111 25 de Mayo
111 S Azcona
111 Andén
Islas Malvinas
111
Río Quemquemtreu 6 ÿ#Dorrego 18 17 ÿ# ÿ# Azcuénaga Ba ri lo c h e & th e L a k e D is tri c t E latBionlgsón
#ý #û 75 Islas Malvinas
Saavedra
2 ò# Dorrego 2
Roca ú# 10 2
Club Andino ï# ï#
Piltriquitrón Ø#
Roca #ú 14
Transportes Plaza P Feliciano
NPeehllueégnrin›#i Pagano
æ# 1
3 Feria Pellegrini Liniers 3
16 Artesanal
#ú TAC S#
ú# ›#
13 #3 ›# Av Sarmiento Pablo Hube 4
ï# La Golondrina 4
Av Castelli ACA Pastorino
French
Don O12tt#úo›##ú Berutti
15 ›#
Güemes Av San Martín Via Bariloche
4 Perito Moreno
25 de Mayo Av Belgrano
9
ÿ#
ABCD
El Bolsón 10 Jauja ..........................................................B2
11 La Gorda ................................................... C1
æ Top Sights 12 La Salteñita ..............................................B4
1 Feria Artesanal........................................ B3 13 Las Brasas................................................B3
14 Otto Tipp...................................................C2
Ø Activities, Courses & Tours 15 Pasiones ...................................................B4
2 El Tabano ................................................. B2 16 Patio Venzano..........................................B3
3 Grado 42 .................................................. B3 û Drinking & Nightlife
17 Barr 442....................................................B2
ÿ Sleeping ý Entertainment
4 Camping Refugio Patagónico ............... D3 18 Centro Cultural Eduardo
5 Hostería La Escampada......................... C2
6 Hostería Luz de Luna ............................. A2 Galeano..................................................B2
7 Hostería San Jorge................................. C2 þ Shopping
8 La Casa del Arbol.................................... C2
9 La Posada de Hamelin............................ B4 Monte Viejo ...................................... (see 3)
ú Eating
Feria Artesanal................................. (see 1)
Otto Tipp ARGENTINE $$ doing anything (or nothing) there are few
(%0294-449-3700; cnr Roca & Islas Malvinas; better ways to unwind than by working your
mains AR$120-200; hnoon-1am Dec-Feb, from way through Mr Tipp’s selection of micro-
8pm Wed-Sat Mar-Jan; W) After a hard day of brews. Guests are invited to a free sampling
374 Banco de la Nación (cnr Av San Martín &
of the six varieties and there’s a good selec- Pellegrini; h 9am-1pm) Has an ATM.
tion of regional specialties, such as smoked Club Andino Piltriquitrón (% 0294-449-2600;
trout and Patagonian lamb cooked in Sarmiento, btwn Roca & Feliciano; h 6-8pm)
black beer. Visitors interested in exploring the surrounding
mountains can contact this office for informa-
Pasiones ARGENTINE $$ tion on hiking conditions, which refuges are
(cnr Belgrano & Berutti; mains AR$100-150; open and general trail queries. Keeps a desk in
hnoon-4pm & 8-11:30pm; W) Specializing in the tourist office during hiking season.
excellent, homemade pastas, this sunny lit- Post Office (Av San Martín 2806; h 8am-6pm
tle spot has huge picture windows featuring Mon-Fri, 9am-1pm Sat)
some of the best views in town. Occasionally Tourist Office (% 0294-449-2604; www.
has live music. elbolson.gov.ar) At the north end of Plaza
Pagano. It has a good town map and brochures,
Ba ri lo c h e & th e L a k e D is tri c t DE lr iBnokli nsógn& E n t e r ta i nmen t Patio Venzano ARGENTINE $$ plus thorough information on accommodations,
(cnr Av Sarmiento & Pablo Hube; mains AR$120- food, tours and services. Maps of the surround-
190; hnoon-midnight) On sunny days you’ll ing area are crude but helpful. Superb staff.
want to arrive a little early to guarantee
an outside table. No surprises on the menu 88 Getting There & Away
(pasta, parrilla), but the atmosphere’s a
winner. El Bolsón has no central bus terminal, but most
companies are on or near Av San Martín.
Las Brasas PARRILLA $$$
(%0294-449-2923; cnr Av Sarmiento & Pablo Via Bariloche (% 0294-445-5554; cnr Av
Hube; mains AR$130-220; h11:30am-midnight; Belgrano & Berutti) goes to Bariloche (AR$115,
W) The finest parrilla option in town. Las two hours) and Esquel (AR$170, two to three
Brasas’ signature dish is Patagonian lamb, hours), and to points north of there, usually with
but it offers other parrilla favorites, plus a a change in Neuquén (AR$554, eight hours).
variety of trout dishes.
TAC (% 0294-449-3124; cnr Av Belgrano & Av
6 Drinking & Entertainment San Martín) also goes to Bariloche and Neuquén;
the company sells tickets to Mendoza, Córdoba
Barr 442 BAR and other northern destinations, though you’ll
have to change buses in Neuquén.
(%0294-449-2313; Dorrego 442; hfrom 8pm
Wed-Sat) This venue doubles as a disco on Don Otto (% 0294-449-3910; Av Belgrano
Friday nights and often has live music on 406) goes to Bariloche and Comodoro Rivadavia
Saturday nights. (AR$750, 11 hours), with connections in Esquel
for Trelew and Puerto Madryn.
Centro Cultural Eduardo Galeano THEATER
(%0294-445-5657; [email protected]; cnr 88 Getting Around
Dorrego & Onelli) Small performance space
featuring local (sometimes international) BUS
theater, music and dance. Stop by for a pro- Local bus service to nearby sights is extensive
gram or ask around town. during the busy summer months, but sporadic
in fall and winter, when you’ll have to hire a taxi
7 Shopping or take a tour. The tourist office provides up-to-
date information. Local buses cost AR$4.50.
El Bolsón is a craft-hunter’s paradise. Be-
sides the regular feria artesanal (p371) Transportes Nehuén (% 0294-449-1831; cnr
there are several other outlets for local arts Sarmiento & Padre Feliciano) has summer bus
and crafts. services to many local destinations.
Monte Viejo HANDICRAFTS La Golondrina (% 0294-449-2557; cnr Pablo
Hube & Perito Moreno) goes to Cascada Mallín
(cnr Pablo Hube & Av San Martín; h9am-6pm) Ahogado, leaving from the south end of Plaza
Quality ceramics, woodcrafts, silver and Ma- Pagano; and to Lago Puelo, leaving from the
puche textiles. corner of Av San Martín and Dorrego.
88 Information TAXI
Remises (taxis) are a reasonable mode of
ACA (Automóvil Club Argentino; % 0294-449- transportation to nearby trailheads and
2260; cnr Avs Belgrano & San Martín) Auto campgrounds. Companies include Remises
club; has provincial road maps. Buen Viaje (% 0294-449-3103) and La Unión
(% 0294-449-2858); call for rides.
375
Around El Bolsón mighty Piltriquitrón mountain range. There
are both free and fee campsites at the park
The outskirts of El Bolsón offer numerous entrance, including Camping La Pasarela
ridges, waterfalls and forests for hikers to ex- (%0294-449-9061; www.lpuelo.com.ar; campsites
plore. With lots of time, and food and water, per person US$10, dm/cabin US$17/75).
some of the following places can be reached
by foot from town, though buses and rem- Regular buses go to Lago Puelo from El
ises to trailheads are reasonable. Mountain Bolsón in summer, but there’s reduced ser-
biking is an excellent way to get out on your vice on Sunday and off-season.
own; for rentals try Maputur (%0294-449-
1440; Perito Moreno 2331) in El Bolsón. Villa la Angostura Ba ri lo c h e & th e L a k e D is tri c t SA irgohutnsd&EAl cBtoi vlistói nes
Popular destinations include Cabeza del % 0294 / POP 11,100 / ELEV 850M
Indio, a lookout 7km from town and Casca-
da Mallín Ahogado, a small waterfall 10km An upmarket resort town on the northwest-
north of town that provides access to the ern shore of Lago Nahuel Huapi, Villa la
Club Andino Piltriquitrón’s Refugio Perito Angostura provides accommodations and
Moreno (%El Bolsón 0294-448-3433; per night services for nearby Cerro Bayo, a small but
with/without sheets US$10/7), a great base for popular winter-sports center.
several outstanding hikes. From here it’s 2½
hours to the 2206m summit of Cerro Perito It’s worthwhile stopping by in summer,
Moreno (%0294-449-3912; lift pass AR$250- too, for lake cruises and walks in the small
380, ski/snowboard rental AR$170/220) a small but incredibly diverse Parque Nacional Los
ski resort with a base elevation of 1000m. Arrayanes (a small peninsula dangling some
12km into the lake), and because this is the
Serious hikers head for the 2260m Cerro southern starting point for the breathtaking
Piltriquitrón, a granite ridge yielding pan- trip along the Ruta de los Siete Lagos.
oramic views across the valley of the Río
Azul to the Andean crest along the Chilean The village consists of two distinct areas:
border. Midway up is the Bosque Tallado El Cruce, which is the commercial center
(Sculpture Forest) and the Club Andino’s along the highway, and La Villa, nestled
Refugio Piltriquitrón (dm US$8, camping against the lakeshore, 3km to the south.
free). Beds here are outstanding value, but Though La Villa is more residential, it still
bring your own sleeping bag. Moderately has hotels, shops, services and, unlike El
priced meals are available. From the refugio Cruce, lake access. Puerto Manzano, in La
it’s another two hours to the summit. Water Villa, is where boats leave for tours to the
is abundant along most of the summit route, Parque Nacional Los Arrayanes.
but hikers should carry a canteen and bring
lunch to enjoy at the top. 1 Sights & Activities
For more information on these and oth- Several outfitters in town offer trekking,
er hikes in the area and the various hikers’ horseback riding and guided mountain-bike
refugios operating, contact the Club Andino rides, and the tourist office provides infor-
Piltriquitrón in El Bolsón (p374). mation on each. Mountain biking is a great
way to explore the surrounding area.
In Chubut province, 15km south of El
Bolsón, the Parque Nacional Lago Puelo Parque Nacional Los Arrayanes PARK
protects a windy, azure lake suitable for
swimming, fishing, boating, hiking and (admission AR$120) S This inconspicuous, of-
camping. By the waterfront the launch ten overlooked park, encompassing the en-
Juana de Arco (%0294-449-8946; www.inter tire Quetrihué Peninsula, protects remaining
patagonia.com/juanadearco) takes passengers stands of the cinnamon-barked arrayán, a
across the lake to Argentina’s Pacific Ocean member of the myrtle family. In Mapud un
outlet at the Chilean border (AR$300, three gun (language of the Mapuche) the penin-
hours). Hardcore hikers can walk into Chile sula’s name means ‘place of the arrayánes.’
from here – a small tourist office at the dock Regulations require hikers to enter the park
has details. before midday and leave it by 4pm in winter,
and around 6pm to 7pm in summer.
Peuma Hue (%0294-449-9372; www.peuma The park headquarters is at the southern
end of the peninsula, near the largest con-
-hue.com.ar; s/d from US$70/110) S is a com- centration of arrayánes, in an area known
fortable lakeside resort complex nestled as El Bosque. It’s a three-hour, 12km hike
between two rivers, with great views of the to the tip of the peninsula, on an excellent
376 Residencial Río Bonito GUESTHOUSE $
interpretive nature trail. You can also hike (%0294-449-4110; www.riobonitopatagonia.com.
out and get the ferry back from the point, or ar; Topa Topa 260; d/tr US$50/65; iW) Bright
vice versa. There are two small lakes along and cheery rooms in a converted family
the trail. home a few blocks from the bus terminal.
From the park’s northern entrance at La The big, comfortable dining-lounge area is a
Villa, a very steep 20-minute hike leads to bonus, as are the friendly hosts and kitchen
two panoramic overlooks of Lago Nahuel use for guests.
Huapi.
Cabalgatas Correntoso HORSEBACK RIDING Camping Cullumche CAMPGROUND $
(%0294-449-4160; [email protected]; Blvd
(%0294-15-451-0559; www.cabalgatacorrentoso. Quetrihué s/n; campsites per person US$8) Well
com.ar; Cacique Antriao 1850) For horseback
riding (half-day to multiday trips). Contact signed from Blvd Nahuel Huapi, this seclud-
Ba ri lo c h e & th e L a k e D is tri c t SV li leleap ilnagA n g o s t u r a Tero Bogani, who brings the gaucho side of ed but large lakeside campground can get
things to his trips. Prices start at AR$450 for very busy in summer, but when it’s quiet, it’s
a three-hour outing. lovely.
Centro de Ski Cerro Bayo SKIING La Roca de la Patagonia HOTEL $$
(%0294-449-4497; www.larocadelapatagonia.
(%0294-449-4189; www.cerrobayoweb.com; full- com.ar; Pascotto 155; s/d US$82/94; aW) A
day pass AR$455-760) From June to Septem-
ber, lifts carry skiers from the 1050m base cute little place just off the main drag, with
up to 1700m at this ‘boutique’ (read: small just six rooms. It’s set in a large converted
but expensive) winter resort, 9km northeast house, so there are some great dimensions
of El Cruce via RP 66. All facilities, including here. Decor is very Patagonia – lots of wood
rental equipment (AR$250 to AR$350), are and stone, and there are fantastic mountain
available on-site. views from the deck.
Cerro Belvedere HIKING Verena’s Haus HOTEL $$
A 4km hiking trail starts from Av Siete La- (%0294-449-4467; www.verenas-haus.com.ar;
gos, northwest of the tourist office, and leads Los Taiques 268, El Cruce; s/d US$82/93; W)
to an overlook with good views of Lago Cor- With all the heart-shaped motifs and floral
rentoso, Nahuel Huapi and the surround- wallpaper, this one probably doesn’t qualify
ing mountains. It then continues another as a hunting lodge, but it is a good deal for
3km to the 1992m summit. After visiting couples looking for a quiet, romantic spot.
the overlook, retrace your steps to a nearby Rooms are big, spotless and packed with
junction that leads to Cascada Inayacal, a comfy features.
50m waterfall. If you’re coming out here, get
a map at the tourist office, as the trails can Hotel Angostura HOTEL $$
be confusing. (%0294-449-4224; www.hotelangostura.com; Blvd
Nahuel Huapi 1911, La Villa; s/d from US$80/97,
BICYCLE RENTAL bungalow US$122-200; W) Ignore the squishy
Aquiles
(Arrayanes 150; h9am-1pm & 4-8pm) Rents rooms and the deer-antler light fittings –
quality mountain bikes for AR$70 per day. this is an awesome location. It’s perched up
on a clifftop overlooking the bay and the
4 Sleeping national park; your biggest problem here is
going to be neck crick from checking out the
Except for camping and Angostura’s growing view – no matter which way you’re walking.
hostel scene, accommodations are pricey; in
summer, single rooms are almost impossible
to find – expect to pay for two people. Encanto del Rio HOTEL $$$
(% 0294-447-5357;
www.encantodelrio.com.ar;
RN 40, Km1110; r/cabin/apt US$186/256/312; a
oHostel Bajo Cero HOSTEL $ Ws) Located halfway between downtown
(%0294-449-5454; www.bajocerohostel.com; and Puerto Manzano, this supremely com-
Río Caleufu 88; dm/d US$25/63; iW) A little fortable setup has a great range of options.
over a kilometer west of the bus terminal The rooms are well equipped and spacious,
is this gorgeous hostel, with large, well- with views of the mountains or river. The
designed dorms and lovely doubles. It has cabins add a touch of privacy and include a
a nice garden and kitchen, plus airy com- full kitchen. The apartments are good, too,
mon spaces. although a little overpriced.
5 Eating 377
There are several restaurants and confit- Tourist Office (% 0294-449-4124; Av Arraya-
erías in El Cruce along Los Arrayanes and nes 9; h 8am-9pm)
its cross streets.
88 Getting There & Away
Gran Nevada ARGENTINE $
(Av Arrayanes 106; mains AR$90-130; hnoon- Villa la Angostura’s bus terminal (cnr Av Siete
11:30pm) With its big-screen TV (quite possi- Lagos & Av Arrayanes, El Cruce) is across the
bly showing a football game) and big, cheap street from the tourist office. Some buses stop
set meals, this is a local favorite. Come hun- in El Cruce on runs between Bariloche and San
gry, leave happy. Martín de los Andes.
Nicoletto ITALIAN $$ For Chile, Andesmar (% 0294-449-5217) goes Ba ri lo c h e & th e L a k e D is tri c t VE ai ltlian gT r aful
(Pascotto 165; mains AR$100-180; hnoon-3pm, over Paso Cardenal Samoré to Osorno (AR$300,
8-11:30pm) The best pasta for miles around is to 3½ hours).
be found at this unassuming family-run joint
just off the main street. It’s all good – freshly There are numerous daily departures to
made and with a fine selection of sauces, but Bariloche (AR$60, one hour) and two daily
the trout sorrentino (large, round filled pasta) departures to Neuquén (AR$837, seven hours).
with leek sauce come highly recommended. Albus goes several times daily in summer to San
Martín de los Andes (AR$121, four hours) by the
La Encantada ARGENTINE $$ scenic Ruta de los Siete Lagos. La Araucana has
(%0294-449-5515; Cerro Belvedere 69, El Cruce; daily services to Villa Traful (AR$82, two hours).
mains AR$120-170; hnoon-midnight; W) A cute
little cottage offering all of your Patagonian 88 Getting Around
and Argentine favorites. The food is careful-
ly prepared and beautifully presented, and BOAT
the atmosphere is warm and inviting. The Two companies run daily ferries from the dock
pizza is some of the best in town and there’s (next to Hotel Angostura in La Villa) to the tip
a good selection of local beers and wines. of Quetrihué Peninsula in Parque Nacional Los
Arrayanes (AR$280/350 one way/return, plus
AR$120 national park entrance). Purchase
tickets at the dock before hiking out, to secure a
space on the return. The ride takes 45 minutes
and you can put a bicycle on the boat.
Los Troncos ARGENTINE $$ BUS
(Av Arrayanes 67, El Cruce; mains AR$130-190; Local buses cost AR$5.50 to go anywhere in
h8am-11pm; W) Specializing in ‘mountain town. Transportes 15 de Mayo runs hourly buses
food,’ this lovely little place serves up a range from the terminal to La Villa (15 minutes), up Av
of tempting dishes, such as deer stew, trout Siete Lagos to Lago Correntoso (15 minutes),
with almond sauce and wild mushroom stew. and south down Av Arrayanes to Puerto Man-
zano on Lago Nahuel Huapi (15 minutes). From
Lancomilla PARRILLA $$ July through September, and December through
(Av Arrayanes 176; mains AR$110-200; hnoon- March, 15 de Mayo runs six or seven daily
midnight; W) The most popular parrilla on buses to the ski resort at Cerro Bayo (AR$60,
the main drag, this one does some good lamb one hour).
dishes, along with the standard offerings.
TAXI
Tinto Bistro INTERNATIONAL $$$ Taxis are the best means of getting to the trail-
(Av Arrayanes 256; mains AR$180-260; h8:30pm- heads, although some are served by local buses.
1am Mon-Sat) Besides the fact that the food Both leave from the local bus terminal on Av
(regional cuisine prepared with European Siete Lagos, just north of Av Arrayanes.
flair) is excellent, the owner, Martín Zor-
reguieta, is the brother of Máxima, Queen of Villa Traful
the Netherlands. Feast on that.
% 0294 / POP 360 / ELEV 720M
88 Information
This little village enjoys an almost achingly
Banco de la Provincia (Calle Las Frambuesas, beautiful location surrounded by mountains
btwn Cerro Belvedere & Nahuel Huapi, El Cruce; on the southern banks of Lago Traful. The
h 9am-1pm Mon-Fri) Has an ATM. place really packs out in January, February
Post Office (Las Fuschias 121; h 8am-6pm and Easter, when booking accommodations
Mon-Fri, 9am-1pm Sat) In a shopping gallery three months in advance is advised. The rest
behind the bus terminal. of the year, you may just have it to yourself.
378 Hostería Villa Traful HOTEL $$
Depending on what you’re into, November, (%0294-447-9005; www.hosteriavillatraful.com;
December, March and April are great times s/d from US$86/110) A pleasant little mom-
to be here. and-pop–run operation on the western edge
Getting here is half the fun – Villa Traful of town. Rooms are aging but comfortable,
is 80km north of Bariloche via unpaved there’s a good restaurant on the premises,
RP 65. and the owners organize boating and fish-
1 Sights ing trips.
Cascadas de Arroyo Blanco & oÑancú Lahuén ARGENTINE $$
Coa Có WATERFALL (mains AR$110-150; h11:30am-11pm; W) A cute
These two waterfalls are a moderately easy, little log cabin set up in the center of the
two-hour round-trip walk from town that
Ba ri lo c h e & th e L a k e D is tri c t S iagnhMt sa r t í n de l o s A ndes can be done without a guide. Walk uphill on village. Trout dishes are the specialty (try
the street running beside the guardaparque ’em with the almond sauce), but the menu
stretches to parrilla and a good range of
(park ranger) office and follow the signs. salads as well.
From where the path forks at the open field
it’s 500m on the left to the 30m-high Coa Có.
Return and take the other fork for 1km to 88 Information
the smaller Cascadas de los Arroyos Blanco.
Far more spectacular than the actual Banco de la Provincia de Neuquén, in the middle
waterfalls are the lookouts along the way, of the village, has an ATM that accepts Visa and
which give you a bird’s-eye view of the for- MasterCard.
est, lake and mountains beyond. Tourist Office (% 0294-447-9099; www.
villatraful.gov.ar; h daily Dec-Feb, Sat-Wed
Lagunas las Mellizas LAKE Mar-Jan) Shares an office with the guardapaque
in the middle of the village.
Starting with a boat ride across the lake, 88 Getting There & Away
this trek of moderate difficulty begins with
a 2½-hour climb through cypress forests, Villa Traful has better bus connections in
before reaching a lookout with views of the summert ime (December to February). La Arau-
Lagunas Azul and Verde (Blue and Green cana has daily services to Villa la Angostura
Lagoons). If you’ve still got the legs for it, (AR$82, two hours) and summer services to San
fording a stream gets you to an area with Martín de los Andes (AR$115, 2½ hours). There
a variety of well-preserved Tehuelche rock are services from Bariloche (AR$62, two hours)
paintings, dated at around 600 years old. daily in summer.
T Tours San Martín de los Andes
Eco Traful TOUR % 02972 / POP 28,000 / ELEV 645M
(%0294-447-9139; h10am-1pm & 4-7pm) A Like a mellower version of Bariloche, San
recommended agency that leads trips to Martín has two peak periods: winter for
Lagunas Las Mellizas (AR$450/560 per per- skiing at Cerro Chapelco and summer for
son walking/horseback) and Cerro Negro trekking, climbing, etc, in nearby Parque
(AR$300 per person), and organizes boat Nacional Lanín. Brave souls also swim in
rides and fishing trips. the chilly waters of Lago Lácar on the west-
ern edge of town. Between these times it’s a
4 Sleeping & Eating quiet little town with a spectacular setting
that retains much of the charm and archi-
There are only a few places to stay unless tectural unity that once attracted people to
you rent a cabaña (cabin; the tourist office Bariloche. A boat ride on the lake is pretty
has a complete listing). There are also a cou- much a must if you’re passing through, and
ple of restaurants tucked into the trees and if the snow’s cleared (anytime from Novem-
a general store. ber onward) and you’re heading south, you
should seriously think about leaving town
Albergue & Camping Vulcanche HOSTEL $ via the scenically neck-straining Ruta de los
(%0294-447-9028; www.vulcanche.com; camp- Siete Lagos (RN 40), which runs south to
sites per person US$5, dm $12; W) In a beautiful Villa la Angostura, Lago Nahuel Huapi and
wooded area on the eastern edge of the vil- Bariloche.
lage, this grassy campground and hostel has
decent dorms and a good kitchen.
1 Sights 379
located two doors north of the tourist office,
Almost everything in San Martín de los near Av Roca.
Andes is within walking distance of the
centro cívico, and the shady lakefront park 2 Activities
and pier are a delightful place to spend an
afternoon. Ruta de los Siete Lagos DRIVING
oMuseo Primeros Pobladores MUSEUM (Seven Lakes Route) From San Martín, RN
40 follows an eminently scenic but rough,
(M Rosas; admission AR$10; h8:30am-3:30pm narrow and sometimes dusty route past
Tue, 9am-1pm Wed-Fri) Regional archaeologi- numerous alpine lakes to Villa la Ango-
cal and ethnographic items such as arrow- stura. It’s known as La Ruta de los Siete
heads, spear points, pottery and musical Lagos (p383) and its spectacular scenery
instruments are the focus of this museum, has made the drive famous. Sections of the
110km route close every year due to heavy Ba ri lo c h e & th e L a k e D is tri c t S iagnhMt sa r t í n de l o s A ndes
San Martín de Los Andes e# 0 200 m
AB 0 0.1 miles
C D
1 A Fosbery Elordi Lanín Mascardi 11 ÿ#
National Sarmiento
E Calderón Belgrano Park Office Camping ACA 1
Av Rudecindo Roca Capitán Drury
Coronel Pérez 6 ÿ# ï# D(1km)
2 Mirador Mariano Moreno
Bandurrias Perito Moreno !¦40
(600m)Arroyo Pocahullo PlazaPSoaò#PbnrlMiaMmdaureotsrríTneoOeâ#oossfuï#fiþ#1rciset19AAvþ#vSþ#2Ra12on0cMa artíS1ú#n2arPm1lú#ú#18a5izeantoØ#4
Plaza del Ø#2 ú# 16 ú#17
Centenario
9 ÿ# 2
Rivadavia
Coronel Rohde Villegas
D Obe7idÿ#
Juez ú#Ø# 5 ÿ#8
13 14ú#
del DDíaz
3 å#
3 Valle ›#TBeursminal Brown 3
MCoAstCaanmi D
n oe ra Ruta de los Siete Lagos; ÿ#10
Naviera f#!¦40 Playa Catrite (4.5km)
AB C
San MarLLatágcíoanr de Los Andes
æ Top Sights 11 Rotui .......................................................... D1
1 Museo Primeros Pobladores ................. C2 ú Eating
Ø Activities, Courses & Tours 12 Bamboo ....................................................C2
2 Andestrack .............................................. B2 13 Corazón Contento ...................................B3
3 Bumps ...................................................... B3 14 El Mesón ...................................................B3
4 HG Rodados............................................. D2 15 El Regional ................................................C2
5 Lanín Turismo ......................................... B2 16 La Casona.................................................C2
17 Pizza Cala .................................................D2
ÿ Sleeping 18 Torino........................................................C2
6 El Oso Andaluz Hostel ............................. C1 þ Shopping
7 Hostería Hueney Ruca ........................... C3 19 Artesanías Neuquinas ............................ C2
8 Hostería La Masía ................................... C3 20 El Carpincho .............................................C2
9 Hotel Antiguos......................................... A3 21 Patalibro ...................................................C2
10 La Raclette............................................... C3
380 z Festivals & Events
snowfalls – December to May is the best
time to schedule this trip, but ask around San Martín celebrates its founding on Feb-
for current conditions. ruary 4, with speeches, parades and other
Full-day tours from San Martín, Villa la festivities; the parade itself is an entertain-
Angostura and Bariloche regularly do this ingly incongruous mix of military folks,
route, but there’s also a scheduled bus ser- firefighters, gauchos, polo players and fox
vice and, with a little forward planning, it’s hunters.
possible to drive/cycle it yourself.
4 Sleeping
HG Rodados BICYCLE RENTAL
As a tourist center, San Martín is loaded
(%02972-427345; Av San Martín 1061; h9am- with accommodations, but they’re relatively
1pm & 4-8pm Mon-Fri, 9am-1pm Sat) Mountain costly in all categories, especially in summer
biking is an excellent way to explore the sur- high season (January to March) and peak
Ba ri lo c h e & th e L a k e D is tri c t SF easntMi vaarltsí n& dEevelnotssA ndes rounding area and a good way to travel the ski season (mid-July and August), when
Ruta de los Siete Lagos. Rent bikes here for reservations are a must. Quality, however, is
around AR$30/110 per hour/day. mostly high. In low season, prices can drop
by 40%.
Mirador Bandurrias VIEWPOINT
(admission AR$10) A 2.5km steep, dusty hike
ends with awesome views of Lago Lácar; be
sure to take a snack or lunch. Tough cyclists El Oso Andaluz Hostel HOSTEL $
(%02972-427232; www.elosoandaluz.com.ar;
can reach the mirador (viewing point) in Elordi 569; dm/d from US$11/35; aiW) San
about an hour via dirt roads. Martín’s coziest little downtown hostel has
a good bed-to-bathroom ratio, atmospher-
Playa Catrite BEACH ic common areas and good-value private
Walk, bike or hitch to this protected rocky rooms.
beach, 4km away down RN 40 (there’s a bus
three times daily in summer). It has a laid-
back restaurant with a nice deck. Camping ACA CAMPGROUND $
(%02972-427332; Av Koessler 2175; campsites per
person US$9) This is a spacious campground
Lanín Turismo RAFTING on the eastern outskirts of town. However,
(%02972-425808; www.laninturismo.com; Av you should try to avoid sites near the high-
San Martín 431; h9am-8pm Mon-Sat) With this
outfit, rafting on the Río Chimehuin or the way. There’s a two-person minimum per site.
Río Aluminé costs about AR$520 for the day Hostería Hueney Ruca HOTEL $
trip, including transfers. The rivers are spec- (%02972-421499; www.hosteriahueneyruca.com.ar;
tacular and suitable for kids. cnr Obeid & Coronel Pérez; s/d US$63/74; W) The
big terracotta-tiled rooms here look onto a
Andestrack OUTDOORS cute, well-kept little backyard. Beds are big
(%02972-420588; www.andestrack.com.ar; Co and firm and bathrooms spacious, with
ron el Rhode 782; h9am-1pm & 3-8pm Mon-Sat)
There are excellent opportunities for trek- glass-walled shower stalls.
king and climbing in Parque Nacional Lanín. oHostería La Masía HOTEL $$
This is a young, enthusiastic company that
has been highly recommended for mountain (%02972-427688; www.hosterialamasia.com.
ar; Obeid 811; s/d AR$560/890; W) Taking the
biking, canoeing, snowshoeing and dog sled- whole Edelweiss thing to the next level, La
ding in the park.
Masía offers plenty of dark-wood paneling,
arched doorways and cast-iron light fittings.
Bumps SKIING Rooms are big and comfortable and most
(%02972-428491; www.skibumps.com.ar; Villegas have mountain views. Fireplaces warm the
459; h9am-6pm Mon-Sat) Skiing and snow-
boarding at nearby Cerro Chapelco attracts lobby, and the owners are usually around to
make sure everyone feels at home. Superb.
enthusiastic winter crowds. In San Martín,
rental equipment is available here and at
many other places along Av San Martín. Rotui HOTEL $$
(%02972-429539; www.rotui.com.ar; Perito More-
Ski gear and snowboards rent for AR$205 no 1378; s/d from US$60/120; aW) A lovely
to AR$390 per day. You can also rent equip-
ment on the mountain. wood-and-stone lodge set on immaculately
manicured grounds overlooking the Arroyo
Pochulla creek. Rooms are sumptuously
381
appointed, with king-sized beds, polished El Regional ARGENTINE $$
floorboards and duck-down quilts. The (Villegas 953; mains AR$120-180; h11:30am-4pm
apartments and cabins on offer are a good & 6-11:30pm) A big atmospheric barn of a
deal for groups. place, El Regional serves up some good trout
dishes, but the specialty here are the tablas
Hotel Antiguos HOTEL $$ (sampler platters), featuring Patagonian
(%02972-411876; www.hotelantiguos.com.ar; Diaz
751; r from US$115; aW) Set just off the main classics such as boar, venison and trout in a
variety of styles. There’s an impressive craft
drag, the Antiguos indulges in San Martín’s beer selection on offer, too.
heavy-wood-and-stone fetish, and does it
well. Some rooms have sweeping garden/
La Casona ARGENTINE $$
(Villegas 744; mains AR$100-160; hnoon-3pm &
mountain views, all are spacious and luxu- 8pm-midnight; W) The cozy atmosphere belies
riously appointed. The roaring fireplace in
the lounge area makes for a welcome sight the wide menu, with some good twists on re- Ba ri lo c h e & th e L a k e D is tri c t SE aatni nMga r t í n de l o s A ndes
in winter. gional favorites. Try the boar stew in black-
beer sauce or the lamb and wild mushroom
La Raclette HOTEL $$ risotto.
(%02972-427664; www.hosterialaraclette.com; Co
ronel Pérez; s/d from US$71/112; iW) Not suit-
El Mesón INTERNATIONAL $$$
(%02972-424970; Rivadavia 885; mains AR$140-
able for claustrophobes, the narrow, low- 200; hnoon-3pm & 8-11:30pm) This cute little
ceilinged hallways here lead on to spacious,
comfortable rooms. What really tips the place has one of the most creative menus in
scales are the downstairs common areas – a town, with plenty of trout dishes, paella and
lounge-bar area and cozy little conversation a couple of vegetarian options.
pit centered on a big open fireplace.
7 Shopping
5 Eating
Many local shops sell regional products and
oCorazón Contento CAFE $ handicrafts.
(Av San Martín 467; mains AR$85; h9am-11pm; Artesanías Neuquinas HANDICRAFTS
W) A cute little bakery-cafe serving up
an excellent range of fresh and healthy (%02972-428396; M Rosas 790; h9am-6pm
Mon-Sat) A Mapuche cooperative with high-
snacks and meals. The salads are great and quality weavings and wood crafts on offer.
the freshly baked scones and muffins hit
the spot.
El Carpincho ACCESSORIES
Pizza Cala PIZZA $ (Capitán Drury 814; h9am-1pm & 3-6pm Mon-Sat)
Gaucho regalia.
(Av San Martín 1129; mains AR$60-130; hnoon-
1am; W) The local’s choice for pizza is this
ever-expanding place near the plaza. All Patalibro BOOKS
the classics are here, plus some ‘gourmet’ (%02972-421532; Av San Martín 866; h9am-
8pm) Good selection of books on Patagonia
options such as smoked trout, spinach and in Spanish; some Lonely Planet titles and
eggplant. novels in English. Carries the excellent Sen-
das y Bosques park trail maps (AR$160).
Bamboo PARRILLA $$
(cnr Belgrano & Villegas; mains from AR$140;
hnoon-4pm & 9pm-1am; W) One reader claims 88 Information
this upmarket parrilla serves ‘the best meat
in all of Argentina.’ We haven’t tried all the There are many travel agencies along Av San
meat in Argentina (yet), so you be the judge. Martín, Belgrano and Elordi, which offer stand-
ard services as well as excursions.
Torino ARGENTINE $$ ACA (Automóvil Club Argentino; % 02972-
(cnr Elordi & Villegas; mains from AR$120; hnoon- 429194; Av Koessler 2175; h24hr) Good
3pm & 8pm-midnight; W) One of the widest source for provincial road maps.
menus in town, with each dish done nearly Andina Internacional (% 02972-427871;
to perfection. There’s a good range of sea- Capitán Drury 876; h 9am-6pm) Money
food on offer, alongside the requisite pasta exchange, including traveler’s checks.
and meat dishes, and they take a decent stab Banco de la Nación (Av San Martín 687;
at sushi if you’re game. h 9am-1pm Mon-Fri) Has an ATM.
Lanín National Park Office (Intendencia del
Parque Nacional Lanín; % 02972-427233;
382 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
Lago San Martín
Lácar •# de los Andes
•#
É
Lago
Machónico
Lago
ÉHermoso
CHILE É ÷# Parque Nacional
Lago Nahuel Huapi
Villarino É
Lago Escondido Lago Falkner
Lago Espejo É ARGENTINA
Chico É
Lago Traful
Lago Espejo Lago É
Grande
Lago Nahuel Correntoso •#
Huapí Villa
É Traful
Villa la
•# Angostura
383
KASTIANZ/SHUTTERSTOCK © 1 DAY La Ruta de los Siete
Lagos
JOSE ALBERTO TEJO/SHUTTERSTOCK © A spectacular road between towering, snow-
capped mountains, crystal-clear lakes and
Top: Lakeshore near Villa La Angostura dense pine forests, this is a 110km Lake
Bottom: Lago Falkner District classic. Bike it in a few days, drive it
in one, tour it or bus it – just don’t miss it.
Starting at San Martín de los Andes (p378),
head out of town on the RN 40, skirting the
banks of Lago Lácar (p385) and passing the
Mapuche town of Curruhuinca. After 20km
you’ll come to the lookout at Arroyo Partido.
From here it’s a 5km downhill coast to
a bridge over the Río Hermoso. Two short
climbs and 5km later, you’ll reach the dark-
blue Lago Machónico. A further 5km brings
you to a turnoff to the right, where it’s 2km
of dirt road to Lago Hermoso, surrounded by
mixed ñire and radale forests. Colored deer
are common in this area, as are hunters, so
be on the lookout (for both) when walking in
the woods.
Entering the Parque Nacional Nahuel
Huapi (p368), it’s 15km to the Cascada
Vullignanco, a 20m waterfall made by the
Río Filuco. Two kilometers on, the road runs
between Lago Villarino and Lago Falkner,
which has a wide sandy beach.
Two kilometers further on is Lago
Escondido, from where it’s 8km of downhill
zigzag to a turnoff to the left. Follow this
side (dirt) road for 2km to get to the north
end of Lago Traful.
After 30km look for the Villa Traful
(p377) turnoff – it’s 27km from here to the
villa, down a good dirt road, passing scenic
lakeside bush campgrounds.
Sticking to the main road, though, you’ll
skirt the banks of Lago Correntoso and after
20km you’ll come to a bridge and a disused
hostería (lodging house). If you’re looking for
a side trip, just before the bridge, turn right
and take the uphill road that ends at Lago
Espejo Chico after 2km.
Continuing south, you’ll catch glimpses
of Lago Espejo Grande on the right through
the trees. There are several lookouts along
the road.
From here it’s another 15km to a
crossroads where you turn left, and 10km on
asphalt to Villa la Angostura (p375).
384 DESTINATION COST (AR$) TIME (HR)
www.parquenacionallanin.gov.ar; cnr Elordi & Bariloche 177 4½
Perito Moreno; h 8am-2pm Mon-Fri) The office 1956 20-23
provides limited maps as well as brochures and Buenos Aires 55 1
information on road conditions on the Ruta de
los Siete Lagos. Junín de los 692 6
Post Office (cnr Pérez & Roca; h 8am-6pm Andes 121 4
Mon-Fri, 9am-1pm Sat)
Ramón Carrillo Hospital (% 02972-427211; Neuquén 343 3½
cnr Coronel Rohde & Av San Martín)
Tourist Office (% 02972-427347; www. Villa la
sanmartindelosandes.gov.ar; cnr Av San Martín Angostura
& M Rosas; h 8am-9pm) Provides surprisingly
candid information on hotels and restaurants, Zapala
plus excellent brochures and maps.
Ba ri lo c h e & th e L a k e D is tri c t GCert rt ionCghTahpeerlec &o Away 88 Getting Around
88 Getting There & Away
Chapelco airport (p384) is midway between
AIR San Martín and Junín. Any bus heading north
There are regular flights from Chapelco airport out of San Martín can drop you at the entrance.
(% 02972-428388; RN 40) to Buenos Aires
with Aerolíneas Argentinas (% 02972-410588; Transportation options slim down during low
Mariano Moreno 859; h 8am-10pm Mon-Sat, season. In summer Transportes Airen goes twice
9am-9pm Sun). daily to Puerto Canoa on Lago Huechulafquen
(AR$55) and will stop at campgrounds en route.
BOAT Albus (% 02972-428100) goes to the beach at
Naviera (% 02972-427380; naviera@smandes. Playa Catrite on Lago Lácar (AR$32) several
com.ar; h 9:30am-7:30pm Mon-Sat, 10:30am- times daily, while Transportes Ko-Ko (% 02972-
7:30pm Sun) sails from the passenger pier 427422) runs four buses daily to Lago Lolog
(Muelle de Pasajeros; Costanera MA Camino) (AR$28) in summer only.
at midday on a sightseeing trip of Lago Lácar’s
lakeside villages. Eventually it reaches Paso San Martín has no lack of car-rental agencies.
Hua Hum on the Chilean border, where Chile- Alamo (% 02972-410811; Av San Martín 836,
bound passengers can disembark and continue 2nd fl; h 9am-6pm)
on foot. Departure times change; call the ferry Sur (% 02972-429028; Villegas 830; h 9am-
company or check with the tourist office. The 6pm Mon-Fri, to 2pm Sat & Sun)
seven-hour return trip costs AR$750.
Cerro Chapelco
BUS
The bus terminal (% 02972-427044; cnr Vil- Located 20km southeast of San Martín,
legas & Juez del Valle) is a block south of the Cerro Chapelco (%02972-427845; www.
highway and 3½ blocks southwest of Plaza San chapelco.com) is one of Argentina’s principal
Martín. winter-sports centers, with a mix of runs for
La Araucana (% 02972-420285) goes to beginners and experts, and a maximum ele-
Villa Traful daily during summer (AR$115, 2½ vation of 1920m. The Fiesta Nacional del
hours). If you’re heading to Villa la Angostura or Montañés, the annual ski festival, is held
Bariloche in summer, Albus regularly takes the during the first half of August.
scenic Ruta de los Siete Lagos (RN 40) instead
of the longer but smoother Rinconada route. Lift-ticket prices vary, depending on
when you go; full-day passes run from
To get to Aluminé you must first change buses AR$555 to AR$790 for adults, AR$445 to
in Zapala or Junín de los Andes (where there are AR$630 for children. The slopes are open
three departures per week). from mid-June to early October. The low
Igi-Llaima (% 02972-428878) takes RP 60 season is mid-June to early July and from
over Paso Tromen (also known as Mamuil August 28 to mid-October; high season is
Malal) to Temuco, Chile (AR$720, six hours), around the last two weeks of July. Rental
passing the majestic Volcán Lanín en route; sit equipment is available on-site as well as in
on the left for views. San Martín.
From San Martín there is direct service in sum- Transportes Ko-Ko runs two buses each
mer via RN 231 over Paso Cardenal A Samoré day (three in summer; AR$60 return) to the
(Puyehue) to Osorno and Puerto Montt in Chile. park from San Martín’s bus terminal. Travel
agencies in San Martín also offer packages
There are frequent daily departures to these with shuttle service, or shuttle service alone
destinations. (AR$80); they pick you up at your hotel.
Parque Nacional Lanín 385Ba ri lo c h e & th e L a k e D is tri c t GPea rt qt ui negNTahceiroena&lALwaanyí n
in the park. Scattered throughout the park
Dominating the view in all directions along proper are several ranger stations, but they
the Chilean border, the snowcapped cone usually lack printed materials. The nation-
of 3776m Volcán Lanín is the centerpiece al park’s website is full of useful informa-
of this national park (www.parquenacional tion. At the time of writing admission was
lanin.gov.ar; admission AR$80), which extends charged to enter the park only if you were
150km from Parque Nacional Nahuel Huapi heading towards Puerta Canoa.
in the south to Lago Ñorquinco in the north.
88 Getting There & Away
Protecting 3790 sq km of native Patagoni-
an forest, Parque Nacional Lanín is home to Although the park is close to San Martín and
many of the same species that characterize Junín, public transportation is not extensive.
more southerly Patagonian forests, such as With some patience, hitchhiking is feasible
the southern beeches – lenga, ñire and coi- in high season. Buses over the Hua Hum and
hue. The area does host some unique spec- Tromen passes, from San Martín and Junín to
imens, though, such as the extensive stands Chile, will carry passengers to intermediate
of the broadleaf, deciduous southern beech, destinations, but are often full.
raulí, and the curious pehuén (monkey puz-
zle tree; Araucaria araucana), a pinelike Lago Lácar & Lago Lolog
conifer whose nuts have long been a dietary
staple for the Pehuenches and Mapuches. From San Martín, at the east end of Lago
Note, though, that only indigenous people Lácar, there is bus service on RP 48, which
may gather piñones (pine nuts) from the runs along the lake to the Chilean border at
pehuénes. Paso Hua Hum. You can get off the bus any-
where along the lake or get off at Hua Hum
The towns of San Martín de los Andes, and hike to Cascada Chachín; bus drivers
Junín de los Andes and Aluminé are the best know the stop. From the highway, it’s 3km
bases for exploring Lanín, its glacial lakes down a dirt road and then another 20 min-
and the backcountry. The Lanín national utes’ walk along a trail to the waterfall. It’s a
park office in San Martín (p381) produces great spot for a picnic.
brochures on camping, hiking and climbing
About 15km north of San Martín de los
Andes, Lago Lolog offers good fishing in a
EXCURSIONS TO PARQUE NACIONAL LANÍN
In summer, buses leave the terminal in Junín several times a day for destinations within
the national park, allowing you to hit the trails and camp in some beautiful areas. The
buses run three ‘circuits’ and charge AR$55 one way.
Circuito Curruhué (via RP 62)
Buses depart Junín de los Andes once or twice daily for Lago Curruhué and Lago
Epulafquen; near the latter is a trailhead that leads to the Termas de Lahuen-Có
(%02972-424709; www.lahuenco.com; s/d from US$325/490) spa, about one hour’s walking
from the head. Package tours out here – including lunch and spa treatments – cost
around US$100 and can be organized through the center or through tour operators in
town (note that transportation costs extra). Luxurious rooms are available, should you
want to spend the night. You can also hike from here to the crater of Volcán Achen
Niyeu.
Lago Huechulafquen (via RP 61)
From Puerto Canoa, on the north shore of Lago Huechulafquen, there are worthwhile
hikes (p386). Buses depart Juniń’s terminal twice in the morning (usually around 8am
and 11am) and once in the afternoon (around 4pm). Be sure to catch the last bus back
unless you plan to camp.
Circuito Tromen (via RP 60)
Buses depart Junín de los Andes twice daily for Lago Tromen (p387). Lago Tromen
can also be reached by taking any bus that goes to Chile and getting off at Tromen.
386 0 20 km
0 10 miles
Parque Nacional Lanín
Lago
Lago Ruca Choroi
Villarrica
Pucón
Volcán Lago
Villarrica Quillén
(2847m)
Ba ri lo c h e & th e L a k e D is tri c t PAacrt qi vuiet iNesac i o nal L an í n Rahué (28km);
Aluminé (45km)
Lago Parque ARGENTINA
Calafquen Nacional Lago
Villarrica Tromen
Volcán
Choshuenco Paso Tromen
(2415m) (Mamuil Malal)
(1207m)
Volcán Lanín CAJA refugio
(3776m)
Lago
Paimún Piedra Mala
Puerto Canoa
Paso Termas de Lago 6RP0
Carirriñe Lahuen-Có Huechulafquen 6RP1
(1123m)
Lago
Epulafquen
Lago
Curruhué
Lago Volcán RP Junín de
Pirehueico Achen los Andes
Niyeu 62
Parque Camping
Nacional Puerto Arturo
Lanín
Lago Lolog
Paso Hua See Parque Nacional Nahuel Haupi Map (p369)
Hum (659m)
San Martín
4RP8 Lago de los Andes
Lácar
largely undeveloped area. You’ll find free offering outstanding views of Volcán Lanín
camping at Camping Puerto Arturo. and access to trailheads of several excellent
Transportes Ko-Ko runs four buses daily hikes.
in summer to Lago Lolog from San Martín
(AR$40). 2 Activities
Lago Huechulafquen From the ranger station at Puerto Canoa
there’s a seven-hour roundtrip hike to
The park’s largest lake is also one of its most Cara Sur de Lanín (south face of Volcán
central and accessible areas. Despite limit- Lanín). Park rangers require you set out by
ed public transportation, it can be reached 11am. Ranger stations are at the entrance
from San Martín and – more easily – Junín to Huechulafquen and at Puerto Canoa.
de los Andes (p385). RP 61 climbs from a From Puerto Canoa, the boat Jose Julian
junction just north of Junín, west to Hue- (%02972-428029; www.catamaranjosejulian.com.
chulafquen and the smaller Lago Paimún, ar; trips AR$350) offers boat trips on the lake.
387
It’s also possible to hike across to Paso teriapaimun.com.ar; r per person incl full board Ba ri lo c h e & th e L a k e D is tri c t SPalereqpuien gN ac i o nal L an í n
Tromen or continue climbing to either of US$126); both cater to fishing parties.
two refugios: the RIM refugio belongs to
the army’s Regimiento de Infantería de Lago Tromen & Volcán Lanín
Montaña, while the CAJA refugio belongs
to the Club Andino Junín de los Andes The northern approach to Volcán Lanín
(p389). Both are fairly rustic but well kept (3776m), which straddles the Argentina–
and can be bases for attempts on the sum- Chile border, is the shortest and usually the
mit. The initial segment follows an aban- earliest in the season to open for hikers and
doned road, but after about 40 minutes it climbers. Before climbing Lanín, ask per-
becomes a pleasant woodsy trail along the mission at the Lanín national park office
Arroyo Rucu Leufu, an attractive mountain (p381) in San Martín or, if necessary, of
stream. Halfway to the refugio is an exten- the gendarmería (border guards) in Junín,
sive pehuén forest, the southernmost in from where there are buses (p385). To
the park, which makes the walk worthwhile prove that you are adequately equipped, it’s
if you lack time for the entire route. The obligatory to show equipment, such as plas-
route to RIM’s refugio, about 2450m above tic tools, crampons, ice axe and clothing –
sea level, takes about seven hours one way, including sunglasses, sunblock, gloves, hats
while the trail to CAJA’s refugio takes a bit and padded jackets.
longer.
From the trailhead at the Argentine
Another good backcountry hike circles border station, it’s five to seven hours to
Lago Paimún. This requires about two days the CAJA refugio (capacity 20 people),
from Puerto Canoa; you return to the north at 2600m on the Camino de Mulas route;
side of the lake by crossing a cable plat- above that point, snow equipment is nec-
form strung across the narrows between essary. There’s a shorter but steeper route
Huechulafquen and Paimún. A shorter al- along the ridge known as the Espina del
ternative hike goes from the very attractive Pescado. Trekkers can cross the Sierra
campground at Piedra Mala to Cascada El Mamuil Malal to Lago Huechulafquen via
Saltillo, a nearby forest waterfall. If your Arroyo Rucu Leufu.
car lacks 4WD, leave it at the logjam ‘bridge’
that crosses the creek and walk to Piedra Contact Andestrack (p380) or the park
Mala – the road, passable by any ordinary office in San Martín to organize guides for
vehicle to this point, quickly worsens after climbing Lanín. The hike usually takes two
a harsh winter. Horses are available for rent days: you leave early the first and stay at
at Piedra Mala. Transportes Ko-Ko runs the RIM refugio (rustic shelter), rise before
buses to Piedra Mala daily in summer from dawn the following day, hike to the summit
the San Martín bus terminal. and walk down. If you want to go up in win-
ter, Andestrack can set you up with guides to
4 Sleeping hike up and board or ski down.
Campsites are abundant along the high- If you’re more interested in short walks,
way; travelers camping in the free sites in from Lago Tromen there is a 1½-hour
the narrow area between the lakes and the roundtrip walk along the river, passing a
highway must dig a latrine and remove fine araucaria forest and a lookout with
their own trash. If you camp at the organ- fabulous views of the lake. You can also do
ized sites (which, though not luxurious, the 45-minute walk to the base of Volcán
are maintained), you’ll support Mapuche Lanín’s Cara Norte (north face).
concessionaires who at least derive some
income from lands that were theirs before Northern Lakes
the state usurped them a century ago. Good
campsites include Camping Raquithue (per Situated in the park’s densest pehuén for-
person US$5) and Bahía Cañicul (%0297-249- ests, isolated Lago Quillén is accessible by
0211; per person US$5). dirt road from Rahué, 17km south of Alu-
miné, and has many good campsites. Other
Noncampers should treat themselves to a nearby lakes include Lago Ruca Choroi, di-
stay at Hostería Refugio Pescador (%0294- rectly west of Aluminé, and Lago Ñorquin-
15-425-5837; www.refugiodelpescador.com; r per co on the park’s northern border. There are
person incl full board US$82) or the three-star Mapuche reservations at Ruca Choroi and
Hostería Paimún (%02972-491758; www.hos Quillén.
388 z Festivals & Events
Ba ri lo c h e & th e L a k e D is tri c t JSui gnhí nt sde& lAocst iAvni tdieess Junín de los Andes In January the Feria y Exposición Gana
dera displays the best of local cattle, horses,
% 02972 / POP 12,600 / ELEV 800M sheep, poultry and rabbits. There are also
exhibitions of horsemanship, as well as local
A much more humble affair than other crafts exhibits, but this is the estanciero’s
Lake District towns, Junín’s a favorite for (ranch owner’s) show.
fly fishers – the town deems itself the trout
capital of Neuquén province and, to drive In July, the Mapuche celebrate their
the point home, uses trout-shaped street crafts skills in the Semana de Artesanía
signs. A couple of circuits leading out of Aborígen.
town take in the scenic banks of the Lago
Huechulafquen, where Mapuche settle- The National Trout Festival takes place
ments welcome visitors. Outside of peak in November.
season, these circuits are best done by
private vehicle (or incredibly enthusiastic 4 Sleeping
cyclists), but travel agents based here offer
reasonably priced tours. High season coincides with fishing season
(November through April); during low sea-
1 Sights & Activities son prices drop.
Junín’s surroundings are more appealing Reencuentro Hostel HOSTEL $
than the town itself, but the museum is well (%02972-492220; www.elreencuentrohostel.blog
worth seeing. spot.com; Pedro Illera 189; dm/s/d/tr US$9/
10/1 9/29; iW) Homey small house with two
Museo Mapuche MUSEUM five-bed dorms and rickety wood floors.
(Padre Milanesio 751; entry by donation; h9am- Camping Laura Vicuña CAMPGROUND $
12:30pm & 2-7pm Mon-Fri, 9am-12:30pm Sat) The
collection here includes Mapuche weavings (Ginés Ponte s/n; campsites per person US$6; W)
You won’t find a much more sublime loca-
and archaeological pieces. tion for an urban campground: perched on
Vía Cristi LANDMARK an island in between two burbling creeks,
Situated about 2km from the center of town, with all the facilities, plus fully equipped
near the end of Av Antardida Argentina, Vía
Cristi contains a collection of 22 sculptures, cabins (three-night minimum).
bas reliefs and mosaics winding its way up oHostería Chimehuín HOTEL $$
(%02972-491132; www.interpatagonia.com/hoste
Cerro de la Cruz and vividly depicting the riachimehuin; cnr Coronel Suárez & 25 de Mayo; s/d
Conquest of the Desert, Mapuche Legends,
Christian themes and indigenous history. US$67/95; W) This is a beautiful spot a few
minutes from the center of town. Book early
Trout Fishing FISHING and you’ll have a good chance of snagging a
(per day/week/season AR$360/1080/1440) The room with a balcony overlooking the creek.
area around Junín is prime country for
trout fishing, and the Río Aluminé, north Either way, rooms are big, warm and com-
fortable and the whole place has a tranquil
of Junín, is an especially choice area. Catch- air to it.
and-release is obligatory. Fishing permits
are available through the tourist office. Rüpú Calel HOTEL $$
(%02972-491569; Coronel Suárez 560; s/d
Ciclismo Mavi BICYCLE RENTAL US$42/60; W) While they may look big and
(Felix San Martín 415; h9am-1pm & 3-6pm) bare to some, the rooms here have a pleasing
Rents mountain bikes for AR$30/160 per
hour/day. simplicity and are sparkling clean, as are the
spacious bathrooms.
T Tours 5 Eating
Picurú Turismo TOUR Junín’s dining scene is slowly improving. Lo-
cal specialties such as trout, wild boar and
(%02792-492829; www.picuruturismo.tur.ar; Cor- venison may be available.
onel Suárez 371; h9am-6pm Mon-Fri, 9am-1pm &
4-7pm Sat) Recommended tour operator for
trips into Parque Nacional Lanín and tours Sigmund ARGENTINE $
(Juan M de Rosas 690; mains AR$80-140;
of Mapuche communities. hnoon-midnight; W) Fabulous trendy eatery
389
with colorful artsy decor, healthy food and The bus terminal (% 02792-492038; cnr
great onda (vibe). Choose from dozens of Olavarría & Félix San Martín) is three blocks from
pizzas, pastas, sandwiches and salads, all the main plaza. El Petróleo goes three times a
delivered with friendly service. week to Aluminé (AR$159, three hours).
Lespos PIZZA $$ Buses from Junín de Los Andes
(Domingo Milanesio 520; mains AR$100-150; DESTINATION COST (AR$) TIME (HR)
hnoon-1am) An inviting little pizza and burg- Buenos Aires 1906 22
er bar, with a better atmosphere than most. 645 6
There’s a wide range of pizzas on offer and a Neuquén 55 1
good music selection seals the deal.
San Martín de los
Ruca Hueney PARRILLA $$ Andes Ba ri lo c h e & th e L a k e D is tri c t AOlrui emnitnaét i o n
(%02792-491113; cnr Colonel Suárez & Domingo 293 3
Zapala
Milanesio; mains AR$110-160; hnoon-midnight;
W) Ruca Hueney, Junín’s oldest restau-
rant, is reliable and has the most extensive
menu in town. Portions are large; service is Aluminé
abrupt. There’s a cheaper takeout counter
next door in case you were thinking about a % 02942 / POP 4600 / ELEV 400M
picnic in the park across the street.
Time seems to have stopped for Aluminé
88 Orientation and, although it’s an important tourist
destination, it is less visited than destina-
The center is between the highway and the river. tions to the south. Situated 103km north of
Don’t confuse Av San Martín, which runs on the Junín de los Andes via RP 23, it’s a popular
west side of Plaza San Martín, with Félix San fly-fishing destination and offers access to
Martín, two blocks west. the less-visited northern sector of Parque
Nacional Lanín. The Río Aluminé also
88 Information offers excellent white-water rafting and
kayaking.
Banco de la Provincia de Neuquén (Av San
Martín, btwn Coronel Suárez & General Lama- 1 Sights & Activities
drid; h 9am-1pm Mon-Fri) Opposite the plaza.
Club Andino Junín de los Andes (Milanesio The tourist office keeps a list of avail-
362; h4-6pm Tue-Fri, 11am-1pm Sat) This able fishing guides and sells licenses
mountaineering club provides information (AR$360/1080/1440 per day/week/season).
on the Volcán Tromen climb, as well as other Mali Viajes (%02942-496310) offers scenic
excursions within Parque Nacional Lanín. back-road tours along the Circuito Pehuenia
Lanín National Park Office (% 02972-491160; (p390) in summer.
cnr Domingo Milanesio & Coronel Suárez;
h 8am-9pm) Inside the tourist office. Has Aigo & Salazar VILLAGES
information on Parque Nacional Lanín.
Post Office (cnr Coronel Suárez & Don Bosco; The nearby Mapuche communities of Aigo
h 8am-6pm Mon-Fri, 9am-1pm Sat) and Salazar, on the 26km dirt road to Lago
Tourist Office (% 02792-491160; junindelos Ruca Choroi (in Parque Nacional Lanín),
andes.gov.ar; cnr Domingo Milanesio & Coronel sell traditional weavings, araucaria pine
Suárez; h 8am-9pm) Enthusiastically helpful nuts and, in summer, comidas tipicas
staff. Fishing permits and a list of licensed (traditional dishes). Salazar is an easy,
fishing guides available. signposted 12km walk or bike ride out of
town – just follow the river. Aigo is another
14km along.
88 Getting There & Away Aluminé Rafting OUTDOORS
Junín and San Martín de los Andes share Chapel- (%02942-496322; www.interpatagonia.com/alu
co airport, which lies midway between the two minerafting; Conrado Villegas 610; h9am-6pm
towns. There are regularly scheduled flights to Mon-Sat) For rafting on the Río Aluminé
Buenos Aires and Neuquén. A remise into town (best in November), as well as kayaking,
should run you about AR$90. Another option is fly-fishing, trekking and rock climbing.
walking the 1km out to the highway and flagging
down a passing bus (AR$23, 25 minutes).
390 Villa Pehuenia
4 Sleeping & Eating % 02942 / POP 700 / ELEV 1200M
If you’re traveling in a group, ask the tourist Villa Pehuenia is an idyllic little lakeside vil-
office about its list of self-catering cabins – lage situated on the shores of Lago Aluminé,
some just out of town – that offer good value 102km north of Junín de los Andes (via RP
for three or more people. High season co- 23 and Aluminé) and 120km west of Zapala
incides with the November-through-April (via RP 13). There are several Mapuche com-
fishing season. munities nearby, including Puel, located be-
tween Lago Aluminé and Lago Moquehue.
Nid Car HOTEL $
(%02942-496131; [email protected]; The village lies at the heart of the Pehuen
cnr Christian Joubert & Benigar; s/d US$28/34) region, named of course after the pehuén
Very standard and slightly spacious rooms (araucaria) trees that are so marvelously
Ba ri lo c h e & th e L a k e D is tri c t VS li leleap iPneghu&eEnaitai n g just uphill from the plaza. Cheapest in town present. If you have a car, the Circuito Pe-
and not a bad deal as long as you’re not huenia is a great drive; it’s a four- to six-
fussy. hour loop from Villa Pehuenia past Lago
Moquehue, Lago Ñorquinco, Lago Pulmarí
oEl Hostal del Río HOTEL $$ and back around Lago Aluminé.
(%02942-15-696808; www.elhostaldelrio.com.ar;
RP 23 s/n; s/d US$65/95; W) A couple of kilo
meters north of town, this charming stone- 2 Activities
and-wood fishing lodge offers supreme
comforts with fantastic views of the Río Volcán Batea Mahuida HIKING
Aluminé from the deck. Rooms are spa- From the top of this volcano you can see
eight others (from Lanín to the south to Co-
cious and spotless and the shady grounds pahue to the north) in both Argentina and
and other common areas are lovingly
maintained. Chile. Inside Batea Mahuida is a small crater
lake. You drive nearly to the top (summer
only) and then it’s an easy two-hour walk to
La Posta del Rey ARGENTINE $$ the summit at 2010m.
(Christian Joubert 336; mains AR$110-160; h8am-
11pm; W) Inside the Hostería Aluminé, this
is the best eating option in town, serving up Batea Mahuida SKIING
all the Argentine standards, plus some good (%02942-467711; www.cerrobateamahuida.com.
ar; day pass AR$300-400) S Volcán Batea Ma-
Patagonian favorites such as lamb, venison huida is the location of this small Mapuche-
and trout.
operated ski park, which is little more than a
few snowy slopes with a T-bar and a poma. If
88 Information you’re a Nordic skier, you’re in better luck – a
circuit goes around the park, taking in awe-
Banco del Provincia del Neuquén (cnr Con- some views of the volcano and lakes.
rado Villegas & Torcuato Mordarelli; h Mon-Fri
9am-1pm) Bank and ATM. Los Pehuenes ADVENTURE SPORTS
Tourist Office (% 02942-496001; info@
alumine.gov.ar; Christian Joubert, Plaza San (%02942-498029; www.pehuenes.com.ar; Cen-
Martín; h 8am-8pm mid-Mar–Nov, 9am-9pm tro Comercial; h9am-1pm & 4-8pm) The local
Dec–mid-Mar) For local info and maps, fishing adventure-tourism operator offers raft-
permits, road conditions, etc. ing, trekking, horseback riding and 4WD
off-roading trips.
88 Getting There & Away 4 Sleeping & Eating
Aluminé’s bus terminal (% 02941-496048) Many businesses in Villa Pehuenia close
is just downhill from the plaza, an easy walk to down off season. Hosterías and cabañas are
any of the hotels listed here. Aluminé Viajes and spread around the Peninsula de los Coihues.
Albus go daily to/from Neuquén (AR$352, six
hours), Zapala (AR$221, three to 3½ hours) and Hostería de las Cumbres HOTEL $$
San Martín de los Andes (AR$159, 4½ hours). (%02942-498097; www.posadalascumbre.com.ar;
There’s one bus a day to Villa Pehuenia (AR$112, d US$70; hyear-round; W) Right down by the
one hour) at 7:30pm. waterfront in the main part of town, this
cozy little hostería has smallish rooms com-
ing off way-narrow corridors. Lake views
391
THE MAPUCHE Ba ri lo c h e & th e L a k e D is tri c t VIni lfloar mPaeht iuoenn i a
The Lake District’s most prevalent indigenous group, the Mapuche, originally came from
Chilean territory. They resisted several attempts at subjugation by the Inca and fought
against Spanish domination for nearly 300 years. Their move into Argentina began slowly.
Chilean Mapuche were making frequent voyages across the Andes in search of trade as
far back as the 17th century. Some chose to stay. In the 1880s the exodus became more
pronounced as the Chilean government moved into Mapuche land, forcing them out.
Another theory for the widespread move is that, for the Mapuche, the puelmapu
(eastern land) holds a special meaning, as it is believed that all good things (such as the
sun) come from the east.
Apart from trade, the Mapuche (whose name means ‘people of the land’ in Mapu-
dungun, their language) have traditionally survived as small-scale farmers and hunter-
gatherers. There is no central government – each extended family has a lonko (chief)
and in times of war families would unite to elect a toqui (axe-bearer) to lead them.
The role of the machi (shaman) was and still is an important one in Mapuche society.
It is usually filled by a woman, whose responsibilities included performing ceremonies
for curing diseases, warding off evil, dreamwork, and influencing weather, harvests and
social interactions. The machi was also well schooled in the use of medicinal herbs but,
as Mapuche access to land and general biodiversity in the region has decreased, this
knowledge is being lost.
Estimates of how many Mapuche live in Argentina vary according to the source. The
official census puts the number at around 300,000, while the Mapuche claim that the
real figure is closer to 500,000.
Both in Chile and Argentina, the Mapuche live in humble circumstances in rural
settings, or leave the land to find work in big cities. It is estimated that there are still
200,000 fluent Mapudungun speakers in Chile, where nominal efforts are made to revive
the language in the education system. No such official program has been instituted in
Argentina and, while exact numbers are not known, it is feared that the language here
may soon become extinct.
Apart from loss of language, the greatest threat to Mapuche culture is the loss of
land, a process that has been under way ever since their lands were ‘redistributed’ after
the Conquest of the Desert and many Mapuche were relocated to reserves – often the
lowest-quality land, without any spiritual significance to them. As with many indigenous
peoples, the Mapuche have a special spiritual relationship with the land, believing that
certain rocks, mountains, lakes and so on have a particular spiritual meaning.
Despite a relatively well-organized land-rights campaign, the relocation continues today,
as Mapuche lands are routinely reassigned to large commercial interests in the oil, cattle
and forestry industries. Defiant to the end, the Mapuche don’t look like fading away any
time soon. They see their cultural survival as intrinsically linked to economic independence
and Mapuche-owned and -operated businesses are scattered throughout the Lake District.
from the front rooms, however, make this La Moquehuina ARGENTINE $$
one a winner. (mains AR$120-200; hnoon-3pm & 9pm-midnight
Tue-Sat year-round) With just three tables, it’s
oLa Escondida HOTEL $$$ a good idea to drop by here at some point
(%02942-15-691166; www.posadalaescondida.com;
r from US$185; hyear-round; W) A small posa- to make a reservation. You’ll be glad you
did, for the gourmet versions of Patagonian
da (inn) tucked away down by the lakefront. classics and excellent selection of craft beers
There are just six rooms, all fitted out in fine
detail and with decks overlooking the water. and local wines on offer.
Sitting areas are sumptuous, the restaurant 88 Information
is one of the best in the village, and there are
good-value cabins (without water views) on Banco de la Provincia del Neuquén (RP 13
offer if you’re traveling in a group. s/n; h 9am-1pm Mon-Fri) Next to the police
station; has an ATM.
392 & 4-8pm) If you have a taste for adventure,
Oficina de Turismo (% 02942-498044; www. this company organizes treks, including to
villapehuenia.gov.ar; RP 13 s/n; h 9am-8pm) Laguna Termal and Volcán Copahue, rents
At the entrance to town. Extremely helpful and mountain bikes in summer and offers dog-
provides good maps of the region. sledding trips in winter.
88 Getting There & Around 4 Sleeping
Exploring the area is tough without a car, though Hebe’s House HOSTEL $
hitchhiking is definitely feasible in summer. Des- (%02948-495138; www.hebeshouse.com.ar; Ma-
tinos Patagonicos (% 02942-498067; Centro puche & Puesta del Sol; dm/d US$20/60; hDec-
Comercial) is the representative for Albus, the Sep; W) Hebe crams them in to cozy but
only bus company currently serving the village. cramped dorms. It’s set in a cute alpine
There are daily buses to Zapala (AR$286, 4½Ba ri lo c h e & th e L a k e D is tri c t GCeavt itai hnugeThe r e & A r o undbuilding and offers kitchen access, laundry
hours), Neuquén (AR$458, seven hours) and facilities and plenty of tourist informa-
Aluminé (AR$112, one hour).
tion. If you’re coming in winter, book well
ahead.
Caviahue
Hotel Caviahue HOTEL $$
% 02948 / POP 610 / ELEV 1600M (%02948-495044; [email protected];
8 de Abril s/n; s/d US$57/77; W) A rambling,
On the western shore of Lago Caviahue, the older-style hotel set up the hill, with views
ski village of Caviahue lies at the southeast out over the village, lake and mountains.
foot of Volcán Copahue. A better-looking It’s the only hotel open in the village year-
village than Copahue to the north, this one round. Rates drop around 30% off-season.
is growing rapidly, too – construction noise Also on the premises is the only restaurant
fills the air during summer. (mains AR$60 to AR$100) in town to stay
open year-round.
2 Activities
88 Information
There are some good short walks from the
village, including a popular day trek that Oficina de Turismo (% 02948-495036; www.
goes up past Cascada Escondida to La- caviahue-copahue.gov.ar; h 9am-8pm) is at the
guna Escondida. Another walk to the four entrance to town. It has good maps and up-to-
waterfalls known as Cascadas Agrio starts date info on local accommodations. There’s
from across the bridge at the entrance to another office in the municipalidad (city hall).
town. The tourist office has an excellent
map showing these and other walks around 88 Getting There & Away
the area.
One bus daily runs to Neuquén (AR$270, 6½
Hotel Caviahue SPA hours) via Zapala (AR$156, 3½ hours). If you’re
headed for Chos Malal, you can shave a couple
(%02948-495044; [email protected]; 8 de of hours off your travel time by getting off in Las
Abril s/n; treatments from AR$150) If you fancy Lajas (AR$122, 2½ hours) and waiting for a bus
some pampering, this hotel has a day spa there. Check your connection times with the
where you can enjoy a thermal bath and bus company Cono Sur (% 02942-432607),
treatments. though – if you’re going to get stranded, Zapala
is the place to do it.
Centro de Ski Cerro Caviahue SKIING
(%02948-495043; www.caviahue.com) A little
under 2km west of Caviahue, this ski resort
has seven chairlifts, and four pomas, which
take skiers all the way up to the peak of Vol-
cán Copahue (2953m). Equipment hire (skis Copahue
or snowboard AR$195–280 per day) is also
available on the mountain or in the village. % 02948 / ELEV 2030M
Adult day passes range from AR$440 to
AR$680, depending on the season. This small thermal-springs resort stands on
the northeastern side of its namesake volcano
T Tours among steaming, sulfurous pools, including
a bubbling hot-mud pool, the popular La-
Caviahue Tours HIKING, OUTDOORS guna del Chancho (admission AR$50; h8am-
6pm). The setting, in a natural amphitheater
(%02948-495138; www.caviahuetours.com; Av formed by the mountain range, is spectacu-
Bialous Centro Comercial local 11; h9am-1pm lar, but the town isn’t much to look at.
393
LAGUNA TERMAL TREK Ba ri lo c h e & th e L a k e D is tri c t GCeotptaihnugeThe r e & Away
This day trip, which should be possible in around eight hours, is easy enough to do on
your own, leaving from Copahue. Due to snow conditions, it’s only possible from De-
cember to April unless you bring special equipment. If you’d like to take the side route
to the peak of Volcán Copahue, it’s recommended that you go with an experienced
guide. Caviahue Tours (p392) is among the many tour operators offering guides on
this route.
From the Hotel Valle del Volcán at the upper (southwest) edge of the village,
cross the little footbridge and climb briefly past a life-size statue of the Virgin. The
well-worn foot track leads across a sparsely vegetated plain towards the exploded cone
of Volcán Copahue, dipping down to lush, green lawns by the northern shore of the
Lagunas Las Mellizas’ western ‘twin.’ Follow a path along the lake’s north side past
little black-sand beaches and gushing springs on its opposite shore, to reach the start
of a steam pipeline, one to 1¼ hours from the village. The roaring of steam from the
subterranean Copahue Geothermal Field entering the vapoducto and irregular ex-
plosive blasts of discharging steam can be heard along much of the trek. Cross the lake
outlet – further downstream is a wide, easy ford – then cut up southwest over snowdrifts
past a tarn to meet a 4WD track at the edge of a small waterlogged meadow. Turn right
and follow this rough road up around left (or take a vague trail marked with white paint
splashes to its right until you come back to the road on a rocky ridge below a wooden
cross). The 4WD track continues westward up through a barren volcanic moonscape to
end under a tiny glacier on the east flank of Volcán Copahue, 1¼ to 1½ hours from the
pipeline.
Ascend southwest over bouldery ridges, crossing several small mineral-and-melt-
water streams. To the northwest, in Chile, the ice-smothered Sierra Velluda and the
near-perfect snowy cone of Volcán Antuco rise up majestically. From the third stream-
let (with yellowy, sulfur-encrusted sides), cut along the slope below a hot spring, then
climb to the top of a prominent gray-pumice spur that lies on the international border.
Ascend the spur until it becomes impossibly steep, then traverse up rightward over loose
slopes into a gap to reach Laguna Termal, 1¼ to 1½ hours from the end of the 4WD
track (3½ to 4¼ hours from Copahue).
Filling Volcán Copahue’s eastern crater, this steaming hot lake feeds itself by melting
the snout of a glacier that forms a massive rim of ice above its back wall. Sulfurous
fumes often force trekkers to retreat from the lake, but these high slopes also grant
a wonderful vista across the vast basin (where both villages are visible) between the
horseshoe-shaped Lago Caviahue (Lago Agrio) and the elongated Lago Trolope to
the northeast. From here, more experienced trekkers can continue up to the summit of
Volcán Copahue.
To get back to Copahue, retrace your ascent route. If you have a decent map of the
area, you can follow the Arroyo Caviahue (Río Agrio) and RN 26 back to town.
Warning
Particularly on windy days, acrid fumes rising from Laguna Termal can be overpowering
due to sulfur dioxide gas (which attacks your airways). Approach the lake cautiously –
don’t even consider swimming in it. Less experienced trekkers are advised to go with an
organized tour.
Copahue has been gaining in popular- baths AR$80, spa treatments from AR$150), which
ity, mainly with Argentine tourists, as the offers a wide range of curative bathing
growth in tourist infrastructure shows. Due programs.
to snow cover, the village is only open from
the start of December to the end of April. In summer, one bus daily runs to Neu-
quén (AR$300, seven hours) via Zapala
The village centers on the large, modern (AR$176, four hours). There are no sched-
Complejo Termal Copahue (%0299-442- uled departures for the rest of the year.
4140; www.termasdecopahue.com; Ortiz Velez;
394 sive grounds and lovely garden that make
the place.
4 Sleeping & Eating
Residencial Codihue HOTEL $
(%02948-495543; www.codihue.wix.com; Velez
s/n; s/d US$45/80) Residencial Codihue is Las Delicias de L’Traful BAKERY $
(Roca 80; pastries from AR$15; h7:30am-1:30pm
the best budget option in town, with simple & 4:30-9:30pm) A small bakery-cafe serving
rooms just down the road from the thermal
baths complex. Full board is available. up yummy, super-fresh baked goods and ex-
cellent coffee.
Hotel Termas HOTEL $$ El Viejo Caicallén PARRILLA $$
(%02948-495525; www.hoteltermascopahue.com.
ar; Doucloux s/n; s/d from US$76/112; W) The (General Paz 345; mains AR$100-140; hnoon-11pm
Mon-Sat) The best parrilla in town is at this
best hotel in the village, Hotel Termas, fea- happy place, offering all sorts of meat dish-
Ba ri lo c h e & th e L a k e D is tri c t CS lheoesp Mi nagla&lE at i n g tures modern rooms, atmospheric common
areas and an excellent restaurant serving es, pastas, salads and sandwiches. There are
usually a couple of regional faves, such as
traditional Argentine and regional foods. black-butter trout and grilled goat, to choose
Parrillada Nito PARRILLA $$ from, too.
(Zambo Jara s/n; mains AR$110-160; hnoon- 88 Information
11:30pm) Parrillada Nito is the most reliable
parrilla (steak house) in town. Banco de la Nación (cnr Sarmiento & Urquiza;
h 9am-1pm Mon-Fri) Has an ATM.
Chos Malal Hospital Zonal Gregorio Avárez (% 02948-
421400; cnr Entre Ríos & Flores) English
% 02948 / POP 13,100 / ELEV 862M speaker usually on-site.
Tourist Information (% 02948-421425;
Cruising through the stark, desertlike land- [email protected]; 25 de Mayo 89;
scape north of Zapala doesn’t really pre- h 8am-9pm) Has good maps of the town and
pare you for arrival at this pretty little oasis surrounds.
town. Set at the convergence of Río Neu-
quén and Río Curi Leuvú, the town boasts 88 Getting There & Away
two main plazas, bearing the names of the
two superheroes of Argentina – San Martín Regular buses depart for Zapala (AR$232,
and Sarmiento. Around the former is the three hours) and Neuquén (AR$404, six hours).
majority of the historic buildings, including There’s one bus per day to Varvarco (AR$195,
the Fuerte IV Division fort (go around the three hours) at 2pm. Two minibuses a day leave
back for sweeping views out over the river for Buta Ranquil (AR$94, two hours) – if you
valley). Five blocks south is Plaza Sarmien- want to connect to the bus for Mendoza catch
to, where you’ll find banks and businesses. the 4:30pm one.
4 Sleeping & Eating North along the Ruta
Nacional 40
Most accommodations are located between
the two plazas. People in Chos Malal eat a lot Following the RN 40 north from Chos
of goat, and you may find yourself doing the Malal towards San Rafael gives you more
same while you’re here. wild desert scenery, tiny windswept towns
and expansive, empty vistas. Despite what
Baalback HOTEL $ many will tell you, there is public trans-
(%02948-421495; 25 de Mayo 920; s/d US$18/35) portation along this route. Transportes
A no-frills residencial (budget hotel) a few Leader (%in Buta Ranquil 02948-493268; cnr
blocks from the plaza, the Baalback is about Malvinas & Jadull) runs minibuses between
as good as it gets for budget digs in this Buta Ranquil and San Rafael, Monday to
town. Saturday (AR$336). There’s regular bus ser-
vice from Neuquén and Chos Malal to Buta
Hosteria La Farfalla HOTEL $$ Ranquil, where you may get stuck for the
(%02948-421349; www.farfalla.com.ar; cnr Sal- night. There’s no real reason to be here, but
ta & Islas Malvinas; s/d US$65/90; aW) Chos there are a couple of cheap hotels, one nice
Malal’s most comfortable lodgings by far one, and enough restaurant-cafes to keep
can be found at this charming little lodge you from starving.
a few blocks south of the plaza. Rooms are
spacious and comfortable, but it’s the expan-
395
NORTH OF CHOS MALAL Ba ri lo c h e & th e L a k e D is tri c t ZS iagphatlsa & A c t i v i t i es
Heading north from Chos Malal brings you to a couple of wonderful, rarely visited attrac-
tions. Public transportation is rare and often nonexistent, but if you have the time and
patience you’ll be well rewarded.
Parque Archaeologico Colo Michi-Co
This small archaeological site features one of the most important collections of Pehu
enche rock art in Patagonia. There are over 600 examples here, carved with symbolic
figures and abstract designs. Getting to the site without a private vehicle is tricky. Buses
leave Chos Malal at 2pm daily for the village of Varvarco (AR$195, three hours). From
there, it’s 9km south on the RP 39 to the Escuela Colo Michi-Co (buses will drop you off),
where you’ll see a signpost leading to the park, an 8km walk away. Bring everything –
there’s nothing out here.
If all that walking doesn’t excite you, contact Señora La Gallega (%02948-421329)
in Varvarco – there aren’t any remises (taxis) there, but the señora should be able to
hook you up with a car and driver, charging around AR$25 per kilometer, plus waiting
time. Hitchhiking is common practice in the area, but be prepared for long waits.
Aguas Calientes
These excellent natural outdoor hot springs located at the foot of the Volcán
Domuyo are spread over 20 sq km and feature three main sites. The main one at Villa
Aguas Calientes is suitable for swimming; Las Olletas is a collection of bubbling
mud pits and Los Tachos are geysers, spurting up to heights of 2m. The site is 40km
north of Varvarco, where the last public transportation terminates. If you don’t have your
own wheels and can get to Varvarco on your own, you can ask about hiring a driver with
Señora La Gallega.
Zapala z Festivals
% 02942 / POP 32,100 / ELEV 1200M Zapala’s Feria de la Tradición, held in the
second week in November, showcases re-
Taking its name as an adaptation of the Ma- gional culture, with plenty of folk music,
puche word chapadla (dead swamp), Za- gaucho horse skill demonstrations, handi-
pala got off to a bad start, image-wise. Not craft exhibits and regional food on sale.
much has changed. This is a humble little
place where the locals amuse themselves 4 Sleeping & Eating
with walks up and down the main street,
punctuated by lengthy pauses on street Zapala has very limited accommodations.
corners.
Hotel Pehuén HOTEL $
1 Sights & Activities (%02942-423135; cnr Etcheluz & Elena de la Vega;
s/d US$45/59; W) Despite its (rather mysteri-
The main excuse for rolling through town is ous) two-star status, this is the best budget
to visit the nearby Parque Nacional Laguna deal in town, conveniently near the bus
Blanca, with its awesome array of birdlife, terminal, with clean rooms, an attractive
or to take advantage of the town’s bus con- (classy, even) lobby and a good restaurant
nections for the rarely visited northern below.
reaches of the Lake District.
Hotel Hue Melén HOTEL $$
(%02942-432109; www.hotelhuemelen.com; Almi-
Centro Cultural ARTS CENTER rante Brown 929; s/d US$78/90; aW) You may
(San Martín & Chaneton; h5-10pm) In front of be faintly surprised by the quiet stylishness
the plaza, this center hosts concerts, and
shows work by local artists and recently re- of this hotel-casino complex. King-sized
beds, full bathtubs, contemporary art on the
leased Hollywood blockbusters. walls…it’s wonderful what gambling money
can buy you.
396
El Chancho Rengo CAFE $ two small streams. Only 30km southwest of
(cnr Av San Martín & Etcheluz; sandwiches AR$50- Zapala, the lake is too alkaline for fish, but
80; h8am-11:30pm) It’s likely half the town hosts many bird species, including coots,
saunters in here for an espresso each day. ducks, grebes, upland geese, gulls and even a
Outdoor tables, and good coffee and sand- few flamingos. The 112.5-sq-km park primar-
wiches, make it great for a light bite. ily protects the habitat of the black-necked
swan, a permanent resident.
Detente ARGENTINE $$
(Italia 87; mains AR$80-160; h12:30-3pm & 9pm- Starting 10km south of Zapala, paved
2am Mon-Fri, 9pm-2am Sat) A laidback place and well-marked RP 46 leads through the
serving some of Zapala’s best food (the com- park toward the town of Aluminé. If you’re
petition isn’t fierce, by the way). The menu catching a bus, ask the driver to drop you
doesn’t stray far from meat, pizza and pasta, off at the information center. If you don’t
Ba ri lo c h e & th e L a k e D is tri c t PInafroqrumeaNtai ocni o nal L a g una B lanca but they do it well, and with friendly service. have your own transport, ask at the National
Parks office in Zapala if you can get a ride
88 Information out with the rangers in the morning. A taxi
to the park should charge around AR$450,
Banco de la Provincia del Neuquén (cnr Av including two hours’ waiting time.
San Martín & Etcheluz; h 9am-1pm Mon-Fri)
Bank with ATM. There is a small improved campground
with windbreaks, but bring all your own
Laguna Blanca National Park Office food. There’s a visitor center (h9am-6pm
(% 02942-431982; [email protected]. Fri-Sun) with information displays and maps
ar; 12 de Julio 686; h 8am-3pm Mon-Fri) For of walking trails, but no place to eat.
information on Parque Nacional Laguna Blanca.
Tourist Office (% 02942-424296; RN 22, Neuquén
Km1398; h7am-9pm) Located on the highway,
2km west of town center. % 0299 / POP 231,200 / ELEV 265M
88 Getting There & Away There are only two reasons to stop in
Neuquén – the wealth of paleontological
The bus terminal (% 02942-421370; cnr Etch- sites in the surrounding area, and the excel-
eluz & Uriburu) is about four blocks from Av San lent wineries just out of town. That said, the
Martín. During summer there are frequent de- town has a strangely hypnotic effect, with its
partures for Copahue (AR$176, four hours). wide, tree-lined boulevards and liberal smat-
tering of plazas.
Buses from Zapala
At the confluence of the Río Neuquén and
DESTINATION COST (AR$) TIME (HR) the Río Limay, Neuquén is the province’s
Aluminé 180 3½ easternmost city. Most travelers hit Neuquén
Buenos Aires 1430 18 en route to more glamorous destinations in
Caviahue 156 3 Patagonia and the Lake District – the town
Chos Malal 232 3 is the area’s principal transport hub, with
Junín de los Andes 293 3 good connections to Bariloche and other
Laguna Blanca 76 ½ Lake District destinations, to the far south
Neuquén 220 3 and to Chile. Paved highways go east to the
San Martín de los 343 3½ Río Negro valley, west toward Zapala and
Andes southwest toward Bariloche.
Villa Pehuenia 286 4½
1 Sights
Parque Nacional
Laguna Blanca Just outside of town are three of the most
important Patagonian wineries – NQN
At 1275m above sea level and surrounded (%0299-489-7500; www.bodeganqn.com.ar; RP
by striking volcanic deserts, Laguna Blan- 7, Picada 15; h10am-4:30pm), Fin del Mundo
ca is only 10m deep, an interior drainage (%0299-555-5330; www.bodegadelfindelmundo.
lake that formed when lava flows dammed com; RP 8, Km9, San Patricio Del Chañar; h10am-
4pm Mon-Fri, to 5pm Sat) and Schroeder
(%0299-489-9600; www.familiaschroeder.com;
Calle 7 Nte, San Patricio del Chañar; admission
AR$50; h10am-5pm). Access to the vineyards
397
BIG, BIG BONES Ba ri lo c h e & th e L a k e D is tri c t TNoeuuqr us é n
Neuquén is one of the earth’s dinosaur hot spots, along with Parque Provincial Ischi
gualasto in San Juan province. Here, three important paleontology sites – Plaza Huin
cul, Villa El Chocón and Centro Paleontológico Lago Barreales – lie within a couple
of hours’ drive from Neuquén city and will delight anyone even slightly interested in
dinosaurs.
In 1989 a local Neuquenian named Guillermo Heredia discovered a dinosaur bone on
his property 7km east of the town of Plaza Huincul. Paleontologists investigated the
site and later unearthed a dozen bones belonging to what they named Argentinosaurus
huinculensis – the largest known dinosaur in the world. The gargantuan herbivore, dat-
ing from the mid-Cretaceous period, measured an incredible 40m long and 18m high.
The sheer size of the Argentinosaurus huinculensis is difficult to fathom, which is why
stopping to gawk at the replica skeleton at Plaza Huincul’s Museo Municipal Carmen
Funes (%0299-496-5486; Córdoba 55; AR$18; h9am-7pm Mon-Fri, 10:30am-8:30pm Sat &
Sun) is a humbling lesson in size.
About 80km southwest of Neuquén city, Villa El Chocón boasts the remains of
the 100-million-year-old, 14m, 8-ton, meat-eating Giganotosaurus Carolinii, the world’s
largest known carnivore. Discovered in 1993 by fossil hunter Rubén Carolini, the dinosaur
is even bigger than North America’s better known Tyrannosaurus rex. El Chocón is also
home to giant dinosaur footprints along the shore of Ezequiel Ramos Mexía reservoir.
(One local confessed how families used to fire up asados (barbecues) in the footprints
before they knew what they were!)
For true dino-freaks, the best place to satiate the hunger for bones is the Centro
Paleontológico Lago Barreales (%0299-15-418-2295; www.proyectodino.com.ar; Costa
Dinosaurio; admission AR$40; h9am-7pm), located 90km northwest of Neuquén. It was
closed at the time of research, but if you’re at all interested in dinosaurs, you should
check the website for latest developments. When it’s operating, you can actually work –
as in get your hands dirty digging – on-site with paleontologists in one of the world’s only
fully functioning dinosaur excavation sites open to the public. Quickie visits include a
cruise through the on-site museum and a guided tour of the site – about 1½ hours worth.
But the real pleasure comes from the unique opportunity offered by sticking around.
Bear in mind that this is a working archaeological site, and visits (even day trips) should
be organized well in advance. Under the supervision of renowned paleontologist and
project director Jorge Calvo, volunteers spend their days dusting off Cretaceous-period
bones and picking at fossils, and nights in the silence of the desert. As Calvo says, ‘when
you set to work picking at the soft rock, uncovering fossilized leaves and bones that are
90 million years old, you forget about the rest of the world – some people even forget
to eat.’
From Neuquén’s bus terminal, there are regular buses to Plaza Huincul (AR$55, 1¾
hours), and all buses between Neuquén and Zapala stop there. There are also regular
buses to Villa El Chocón from Neuquén (AR$42, 1¼ hours). Centro Paleontológico
Lago Barreales is a bit more difficult to reach; contact the site for driving directions or
possible transportation options (there are no buses to the site). If you drive, take RP 51,
not RN 7.
is almost impossible without your own vehi- from the region and often features traveling
cle, but Turismo Arauquen (p397) can get exhibitions.
you out there, often in combination with a
paleontological tour. T Tours
Museo Nacional de Turismo Arauquen TOUR
Bellas Artes MUSEUM (%0299-442-6476; www.arauquen.com; H Yri-
goyen 720; h9am-7pm Mon-Fri, to 1pm Sat) Of-
(cnr Bartolomé Mitre & Santa Cruz; h10am-8pm fers guided visits to paleontology sites for
Mon-Sat, 4-8pm Sun) F Showcases fine arts
398 may have you lounging around for hours.
about AR$620 per person (minimum four), The menu runs the usual confitería gamut,
which can be combined with winery visits with plenty of sandwiches, cakes and coffee
(AR$380 per person). If you have less than on offer. There’s live music Friday to Sunday
four people in your group, winery tours hap- nights and the occasional tango show – drop
pen every Saturday guaranteed. in for the schedule.
4 Sleeping oTres Catorce INTERNATIONAL $$
(9 de Julio 63; mains AR$100-160; h8pm-2am
Neuquén’s hotels mainly cater to the busi- Tue-Sun; W) Neuquén’s dining scene has im-
ness set. They are fairly unexciting in all proved considerably over the years, with this
ranges and less than great value for budget casually stylish eatery at the forefront. On
travelers.
Ba ri lo c h e & th e L a k e D is tri c t SNleeueqpui né ng Punto Patagonico Hostel HOSTEL $ offer are carefully prepared dishes, thought-
ful garnishes and a small but well-selected
(%0299-447-9940; www.puntopatagonico.com; range of boutique wines.
Periodistas Neuquinas 94; dm US$25, d with/with-
out bathroom US$70/50; iW) Neuquén’s best
hostel is a good deal – it’s well set up with 7 Shopping
comfy dorms, a spacious lounge and a good Paseo de los Artesanos HANDICRAFTS
garden area.
(Av Independencia, Parque Central; h10am-9pm
Wed-Sun) Neuquén’s largest selection of re-
Parque Hotel HOTEL $ gional handicrafts is at this outlet, north of
(%0299-442-5806; www.parquehotelnqn.com.ar;
Av Olascoaga 271; s/d US$40/56; W) There are the old train station.
a few charming touches in the spacious, tile- Artesanías Neuquinas HANDICRAFTS
floored rooms here. Some are showing their
age these days, but most have good views (Brown 280; h8am-1pm & 5-9pm Mon-Fri, 9am-
1pm Sat) S This provincially sponsored store
out over the busy street below. offers a wide variety of high-quality Mapu-
Hotel Neu HOTEL $$$ che textiles and wood crafts.
(%0299-443-0084; www.hotelneu354.com; Ri- 88 Orientation
vadavia 354; s/d US$135/178; aW) One of the
better business-class hotels in town, the Neu Known as Félix San Martín in town, the east–
keeps it simple with fresh, modern decor in west RN 22 is the main thoroughfare, lying a
medium-sized but uncramped rooms. The few blocks south of downtown. Don’t confuse
location is super-central and there’s an on- it with Av San Martín (ie sans the ‘Félix’), the
site gym. obligatory homage to Argentina’s national
icon. The principal north–south street is Av
5 Eating & Drinking Argentina, which becomes Av Olascoaga south
of the old train station. Street names change
The many confiterías along Av Argenti- on each side of Av Argentina and the old train
na are all pleasant spots for breakfast and station. Several diagonal streets bisect the
morning coffee. There are numerous bars conventional grid.
and confiterías in the area north of Par-
que Central and around the meeting of the 88 Information
diagonals.
Neuquén’s dozens of travel agencies are almost
La Nonna Francesa INTERNATIONAL $ all located near downtown. Several banks
(%0299-430-0930; 9 de Julio 56; mains AR$90- around the corner of Av Argentina and Juan B
150; h11am-3pm & 8pm-midnight Mon-Sat) Some Justo have ATMs.
of Neuquén’s finest dining can be found at ACA (Automóvil Club Argentino; % 0299-442-
this French-Italian trattoria – the pastas are 2325; cnr Diagonal 25 de Mayo & Rivadavia)
all extremely good, but the trout dishes are Argentina’s auto club; good source for provin-
the absolute standouts. cial road maps.
Cambio Pullman (Ministro Alcorta 144;
Confitería Donato CAFE $ h 9am-7pm Mon-Sat) Money exchange.
(cnr Juan B Alberdi & Santa Fe; mains AR$60-90; Post Office (cnr Rivadavia & Santa Fe; h 8am-
h8am-11pm; W) Plenty of dark-wood pan- 6pm Mon-Fri, 9am-1pm Sat)
eling and brass fittings give this place an Provincial Tourist Office (%0299-442-
old-time feel and the wraparound seats 4089; www.neuquentur.gov.ar; Félix San
Martín 182; h7am-9pm) Great maps and
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