149
oEl Mundo de la Parrilla PARRILLA $$ 9526; www.lan.com; Chiclana 344; h 9am-6pm
(Av Colón 379; mains AR$60-150; h8pm-late Mon, Mon-Fri) offer flights from Bahía Blanca’s
noon-3pm & 8pm-late Tue-Sun) Locals agree that airport, 15km east of town (AR$180 by taxi;
this busy and casually elegant parrilla is there are no buses).
one of the best dining options in town. In BUS
addition to gourmet empanadas, succulent Bahía Blanca’s bus terminal (Brown 1700) is
lechón (roasted suckling pig) and practically about 2km southeast of Plaza Rivadavia. Taxis to
every cut of steak imaginable, the restau- the city center cost around AR$50; local buses
rant offers 20 varieties of salads and a range 514 and 517 run to the bus station from Plaza
of excellent and traditionally Argentinian Rivadavia, but you’ll have to buy a magnetic
desserts. card at a newsstand to use them (and there’s no
kiosco selling them at the terminal).
Gambrinus ARGENTINE $$ There are several businesses – including Th e Pa m pas & th e Atl a nti c C oas t BIAntaflhoaíranmtBailctaiCnoocnast
(www.gambrinus1890.com; Arribeños 174; mains kioscos and locutorios (private telephone offic-
AR$55-130; hnoon-3pm & 8pm-1am) This tradi- es) – around the south end of Plaza Rivadavia
tional restaurant, located in a lovely corner that sell bus tickets, saving you a trip to the bus
building on a side street a few blocks south terminal to do so. These businesses sell different
of the main plaza, dates from the 19th centu- bus company’s tickets, so ask around if you want
ry. The menu features Spanish- and Italian- a particular schedule, company or price.
inspired Argentinian classics. There’s a good Travelers to Sierra de la Ventana have two
wine list and a number of beers on tap; the options: Condor Estrella (p129) runs two
vivacious local crowd and walls plastered daily buses (AR$110, 2½ hours) and Norte
with vintage ads contribute to the welcom- Bus (p132) operates a door-to-door shuttle
ing atmosphere. (AR$120, one hour) with two or three departures
per day. Call ahead to reserve a spot.
Bamboo BUFFET $$ Buses from Bahía Blanca
(Chiclana 298; buffet lunch/dinner AR$150/165,
half-price for children; hnoon-3pm & 8:30pm-
midnight) This tenedor libre (all-you-can-eat DESTINATION COST (AR$) TIME (HR)
restaurant), efficiently run by a Chinese Bariloche 1031-1175 12-14
family, is a good choice if you’re famished Buenos Aires 658-750 9
after a marathon bus ride. Choose from a Córdoba 915-1075 13-15
range of Asian-inspired dishes and Argen-
tinian classics, including a wide array of Mar del Plata 505 7
grilled meats. Mendoza 863-1166 15-17
Neuquén 551-629 7½
88 Information Sierra de la 110-120 2½
Tourist Kiosk (% 0291-459-4000; www. Ventana 750-868 10-12
turismo.bahiablanca.gov.ar; Alsina 65, Munici- Trelew
palidad de Bahía Blanca; h 9am-6pm Mon-Fri,
9:30am-1pm & 2:30-6pm Sat) The bus terminal
also has a tourist office. TRAIN
Ferrobaires (www.ferrobaires.gba.gov.ar) runs
88 Getting There & Away trains from the Estación Ferrocarril Roca
(% 0291-452-9196; Cerri 750) to Buenos Aires’
Constitución station several days of the week
AIR (AR$115 to AR$205, 14 hours). Check the web-
Aerolíneas Argentinas (% 0291-456-0561; site for more details on routes and fare options,
www.aerolineas.com.ar; San Martín 298; and to make reservations.
h10am-6pm Mon-Fri) and LAN (% 0810-999-
©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
Iguazú Falls & the
Northeast
Includes Why Go?
Rosario......................... 151 Northeast Argentina is defined by water. Muscular rivers
Santa Fe...................... 164 roll through plains that they flood at will, while fragile wet-
Paraná......................... 168 lands support myriad birdlife, snapping caimans and cuddly
Corrientes.................... 171 capybaras. The peaceful Río Iguazú, meandering through
Posadas....................... 188 jungle between Brazil and Argentina, dissolves in fury and
San Ignacio..................192 power in the planet’s most awe-inspiring waterfalls.
Iguazú Falls................. 196
Puerto Iguazú..............197 The river then flows into the Paraná, one of the world’s
Parque Nacional mightiest watercourses, which surges southward, eventu-
Iguazú......................... 203 ally forming the Río de la Plata near Buenos Aires. Along
Parque Nacional do it are some of the country’s most interesting cities: elegant
Iguaçu (Brazil)............. 211 Corrientes, colonial Santa Fe and booming Rosario, as well
as Posadas, gateway to the ruined splendor of the Jesuit
Best Parks & missions.
Reserves
Dotted throughout are excellent parks that represent the
¨¨Parque Nacional Iguazú region’s biological diversity. The Esteros del Iberá harbor a
(p203) particularly astonishing richness of wildlife.
¨¨Reserva Provincial Esteros
del Iberá (p177) When to Go Rainfall inches/mm
¨¨Parque Nacional El Palmar 10/250
(p185) Puerto Iguazú
¨¨Bañado la Estrella (p210)
°C/°F Temp
Best Places
to Stay 40/104
¨¨La Alondra (p173) 30/86 8/200
¨¨Rancho de los Esteros
(p179) 20/68 6/150
¨¨Boutique Hotel de la Fonte
(p200) 10/50 4/100
¨¨Casa de China (p176)
0/32 2/50
-10/14 J F MAM J 0
J ASOND
Feb Hot weather Aug Cool and dry; Sep & Oct Moder-
and flashy Carna- good for wildlife- ate temperatures,
val celebrations watching as not too crowded.
in Gualeguaychú, water sources are Iguazú flowing
Corrientes and scarcer. well but flooding
Posadas.
151
ALONG THE RÍO PARANÁ oCostanera WATERFRONT
The mighty Paraná, the continent’s second- Rosario’s most attractive feature is its water-
longest river at 4000km, dominates the geo front, where what was once derelict ware-
graphy of Northeast Argentina. The cities houses and train tracks has been reclaimed
along it have their town centers a sensible for the fun of the people. It stretches some
distance above the shorelines of this flood- 15km from its southern end at Parque Ur-
prone monster, but have a costanera (river quiza to the city’s northern edge, just short
bank) that’s the focus of much social life. of the suspension bridge crossing into En-
The river is still important for trade, and tre Ríos province. It’s an appealing place to
large oceangoing vessels ply it to and beyond wander and watch what’s going on, from
Rosario, the region’s top urban destination. the plentiful birdlife and impromptu fútbol
games to massive cargo ships surging past
The Paraná is the demesne of enormous on the river.
river fish – surubí, dorado and pacú among
others – that attract sports fishers from ¨¨Costanera Sur
around the world. Their distinctive flavors The grassy zone below downtown includes
enliven the menus of the region’s restau- plenty of space for jogging and courting, as
rants; make sure you try them. well as the Estación Fluvial (La Fluvial; %0341-
447-3838; www.estacionfluvial.com; hnoon-5pm I g ua zú Fa ll s & th e N o rth e as t RAS ilogoshantrgis toh e R í o Paran á
Mar-Oct, 10am-6pm Nov-Feb) building, offering
boat trips and eating and drinking options.
Rosario Heading further north, you pass various cul-
tural venues before reaching Parque de Es-
% 0341 / POP 1.19 MILLION paña (Paraná riverbank) and its mausoleum-like
edifice. Beyond here is a zone of bars and res-
Birthplace of both the Argentine flag and Che taurants that gets lively at weekends, and then
Guevara, Rosario is still an important river the city’s contemporary art museum.
port but has done a great job of regenerating
its center. The derelict buildings of the long ¨¨Costanera Norte
costanera (riverbank) have been converted In summer this strip beginning 5km north
into galleries, restaurants and skate parks, of downtown attracts crowds for its beach-
and river beaches and islands buzz with life in es. The mediocre public beach of Rambla
summer. The center – a curious mishmash of Catalunya is backed by a promenade and
stunning early-20th-century buildings over- bar-restaurants; beyond, the best beach
shadowed by ugly apartments – has a com- is Balneario La Florida (admission AR$25;
fortable, lived-in feel, and the down-to-earth h9am-8pm Oct-Apr), with services and a safe
rosarinos (people from Rosario) are a delight. bathing area. Picturesque stalls behind it
All are very proud of Rosario-born-and-bred sell river fish. The summer-only ‘Linea de
Lionel Messi, soccer’s number-one player.
History la Costa’ bus heads here from Rioja/Roca.
Otherw ise take bus 102N/103N/143N and
Rosario’s first European inhabitants settled walk a few blocks east from Blvd Rondeau.
here around 1720. After independence Rosa-
rio quickly superseded Santa Fe as the prov-
ince’s economic powerhouse, though, to the oMonumento Nacional a La
irritation of rosarinos, the provincial capital
retained political primacy. Bandera MONUMENT
Rosario was a port of entry for European (www.monumentoalabandera.gob.ar; Santa Fe
agricultural colonists and from 1869 to 1914 581; elevator AR$10; h9am-6pm Tue-Sun, 2-6pm
its population grew nearly tenfold, though Mon) Manuel Belgrano, who designed the
a decline of economic and shipping activity Argentine flag, rests in a crypt beneath
during the 1960s hit hard. this colossal stone obelisk built where the
blue-and-white stripes were first raised. If
Nationalistic Argentines cherish Rosario, rampant nationalism isn’t your thing, it’s
home to Cuna de la Bandera (Cradle of the nevertheless worth taking the elevator to
Flag), a monument to the nation’s flag. the top for great views over the waterfront,
Paraná and islands. The attractive colon-
1 Sights nade houses an eternal flame commemorat-
ing those who died for the fatherland.
Though you can’t enter, you may want to
check out the apartment building at Entre oParaná Delta ISLAND
Ríos 480 (Entre Ríos 480), where the newborn
Ernesto ‘Che’ Guevara had his first home. Rosario sits on the banks of the Río Paraná
upper delta, a 60km-wide area of mostly
I g ua zú Fa ll s & th e N o rth e as t SAR liogoshantrgsitoh e R í o Paran á 0 200 km 152
0 100 miles
Iguazú Salta Río Paragua y
Falls & the Tropic of Capricorn R ío
Northeast Pi R io Para ná
Highlights lco
Reserva m a yo Río Iguatemi
1 Dropping your Natural
jaw in stunned Formosa Laguna
amazement at the
beauty and power R ío Yema Bañado PARAGUAY
of the Iguazú Falls Teuco la Estrella
(p196). Reserva
2 Getting personal Provincial Formosa
with the mighty
Paraná in livable, Fuerte Las Lomitas Parque Nacional Represa
lovable Rosario Esperanza de Itaipu
(p151). Fuerte Esperanza Misión Parque Nacional RN Río Pilcomayo
3 Cooing at the Reserva Natural Nueva 86 Foz do
cute capybaras of the Loro Hablador Iguaçu Parque
Reserva Provincial Pompeya El Impenetrable RN Espinillo Nacional
Esteros del Iberá 95 Laguna Ciudad del Este do Iguaçu
(p177). Puerto Iguazú
4 Munching Chaco Ibarreta Blanca ASUNCIÓN Iguazú Falls
delicious freshwater
fish by the Río El Impenetrable Villa Río RN Clorinda Parque
Uruguay in pretty Bermejito 81 Nacional
Colón (p183).
5 Pondering a Salta (400km) Pirané RN
unique experiment Parque 11
in humanity at Nacional RN RP
the ruined Jesuit Juan José 95 3
missions (p192). Copo Castelli
6 Admiring FORMOSA RN Iguazú
the sculptures Río 12
Berm
Tres Isletas Eldorado RP
17
RN Parque Jesús de ran á
16 Nacional POETnSrcAianDrindAaaScdióTRnauvRianursainnsSgaüRSneiaIongMJenIPgsiasnaucsaiioitcoiMonsMisin1RiN4íonSaMeltSEsooolcsbSPodaeenenrdálbrioo
Avia Terai Chaco Capitán ejo
Santiago RP Roque Solari
del Estero 94 Sáenz
Peña RP
9
Paso de
General la Patria Itatí
RN Pinedo Resistencia Corrientes RN Oberá
89
Ituzaingó 12 Santa Ana & Loreto
San Luis RP Apóstoles
del Palmar 5
RN Gobernador
118 RP
Mburucuyá Galarza Virasoro 2 Santa María
Saladas Parque Nacional RN RP la Mayor
Mburucuyá 14 94
BR
Santa Fe RN RP Reserva Provincial Santo São Borja 285
11 27 Esteros del Iberá Colonia Tomé
Pellegrini
in Resistencia Tostado ReconquistaRío Par an á Goya RN RP Corrientes g u BR
(p205) then hitting Vera R io 123 40 472
‘El Impenetrable’ RN Uru
(p209) in the 98 ayMercedes Rio BR
Chaco , a bastion of 392
traditional indigenous Río Salado RN RN Paso de Yapeyú I b icu í BRAZIL
culture. 12 119 los Libres Uruguaiana Santa
7 Living it up at one Maria
of the region’s classic Curuzú Cuatiá
Carnaval celebrations Melo
in Gualeguaychú Esquina RP RN BR Lagoa
(p183) or 126 14 290 Mirim
Corrientes (p173). RP
RN 1 Rivera ATLANTIC
11 OCEAN
Tacuarembó
Moisés Bella Unión
Ville 5 URUGUAY
Laguna Humberto San RP RN RN
Mar Primero Justo 1 127 14 Lago Artificial
de Rincón
Chiquita La Paz Federal del Boneté
Rafaela Cayastá RN 7
12
Concordia
RN Esperanza Salto
19 RN
18
SANTA FE
PARANÁ Ubajay
San Carlos Centro
RP Parque Nacional 3
Coronda 32 El Palmar 26
Colón San José
RN Entre
12
RN Ríos Paysandú
11
Maciel Puerto Victoria Palacio
Gaboto San José Concepción
Córdoba
del Uruguay 3
Rosario RP Gualeguaychú Río Negro
11
Gualeguay RP Fray Mercedes
16
Bentos
RN RN 21 2 Trinidad 8
9 12
3
RN 5
8
Pergamino
Rufino Colonia del
Sacramento
RN
7
o de 153
BUENOS Rí
Buenos la Plata 1
Aires
AIRES MONTEVIDEO
I g ua zú Fa ll s & th e N o rth e as t SAR liogoshantrgsitoh e R í o Paran á
154 the southern Andes. Information in Span-
uninhabited, subtropical islands and wind- ish only. Closed when Newell’s Old Boys are
ing riachos (streams). It’s rich in bird and playing at home in the adjacent stadium.
animal life, and even the closest islands feel
miles from anywhere, though you can see Museo de la Ciudad MUSEUM
the city’s buildings looming close at hand.
Various boat services and tours reach the (www.museodelaciudad.gob.ar; Blvd Oroño 2300;
islands and/or explore the delta. admission AR$10; h9am-3pm Tue-Fri, 2-7pm Sat,
From Estación Fluvial (p151), boats run 9am-1pm Sun) Opposite the racetrack in a tin-
weekends from mid-September to May and roofed bungalow, one of Rosario’s loveliest
daily from December to February across to buildings, this enthusiastic museum is the
the island beaches at the Banquito de San place to begin an exploration of Parque In-
Andrés (AR$85 return). dependencia. An excellent bilingual leaflet
will lead you around this large, centenarian
park; the museum itself has good-quality
Museo de Arte Contemporáneo temporary exhibitions, a reconstructed
de Rosario GALLERY
(MACRO; www.macromuseo.org.ar; Av de la Costa 19th-century pharmacy, a cute exhibition
at Blvd Oroño; admission AR$10; h2-8pm Thu-Tue) space in a former greenhouse, and an in-
Housed in a brightly painted grain silo on the volved, bring-it-out-to-the-people attitude.
I g ua zú Fa ll s & th e N o rth e as t AR clootsainvrgiittoi ehse R í o Paran á waterfront, this is part of Rosario’s impressive
riverbank renewal. It features temporary ex- 2 Activities
hibitions, mostly by young local artists, of var-
ying quality, housed in small galleries spread Jardín de los Niños AMUSEMENT PARK
over eight floors. There’s a good view of river (Parque de la Independencia; admission AR$10;
h2-7pm Fri-Sun) This former zoo has been
islands from the mirador (viewpoint) at the converted into a marvelous activity park for
top and an attractive cafe-b ar by the river.
kids, with a wide variety of innovative puz-
zles, climbing frames, hands-on activities
Museo de la Memoria MUSEUM and a flying machine. Helpful assistants ex-
(www.museodelamemoria.gob.ar; Córdoba 2019; plain it all; it’s good fun for parents too. Two
admission AR$10; h10am-6pm Tue-Fri, 4-7pm Sat &
Sun) A former army HQ, not far from where other (also excellent) child-oriented places
in town make up the ‘Tríptico de la Infancia’.
police held, tortured and killed during the
Dirty War, this museum seeks to remember C Courses
the violence and victims. If you can read
Spanish, you’ll find it’s a small but very mov- Spanish in Rosario LANGUAGE COURSE
ing display, with witness descriptions, photos (%0341-15-560-3789; www.spanishinrosario.com;
Catamarca 3095) Rosario is a great base for
of the ‘disappeared’ and an attempt to look at learning Spanish; this place offers enjoyable
the wider history of man’s inhumanity to man.
There are temporary exhibitions upstairs. language programs and can arrange family
stays and volunteer work placements.
oMuseo Municipal de
T Tours
Bellas Artes GALLERY
(www.museocastagnino.org.ar; cnr Av Carlos Pel- oRosario Kayak &
legrini & Blvd Oroño; admission AR$10; h2-8pm
Wed-Mon) This gallery is worth a visit for Motor Boat Tours TOUR
its inventive displays of contemporary and (Paseos en Lancha y Kayak; %0341-15-571-3812;
www.boattours.com.ar; Estación Fluvial) A friendly,
20th-century artworks from the Macro professional, recommended multilingual set-
(p154) collection, and its small collection
of European works, which contains a couple up with great boat trips around the Paraná
delta (AR$180 to AR$250, 1 to 1½ hours) with
of very fine pieces. an optional lunch stop on a delta island. You
Museo Histórico Provincial MUSEUM can also explore the islands by kayak (AR$350,
three hours). It also offers water-taxi service
(www.museomarc.gob.ar; Av del Museo, Parque to the delta islands (from AR$70 return)
Independencia; admission AR$10; h9am-6pm
Tue-Fri, 2-7pm Sat & Sun, 3-8pm Sat & Sun Dec-Mar) and rents bikes for AR$150 per day. Book by
phone, email or at the Estación Fluvial.
The well-presented collection features plenty
of post-independence exhibits plus excellent
displays on indigenous cultures from all over Rosario Free Tour WALKING TOUR
Latin America. Particularly interesting is (%0341-560-3789; www.rosariofreetour.com;
Maipú & Urquiza; htours at 11:30am Sat) Two-
the collection of baroque religious art from hour walking tours in Spanish and English.
155
Meet on the steps of the old customs build- example – better than many competitors. It’s
ing at the end of Maipú. Though it’s techni- a cute spot with attractive dorms, kitchen and
cally free, a donation is appropriate. a petite courtyard. Various workshops – yoga,
dance, folk music – are held, and it hires bikes.
z Festivals & Events
Esplendor Savoy Rosario HOTEL $$
Rosario packs out for the October 12 long (%0341-429-6000; www.esplendorsavoyrosario.
weekend. Many hotels and hostels double com; San Lorenzo 1022; standard/superior r
their prices and fill up well ahead of time. US$110/120, ste US$180; aiWs) Even
Semana de la Bandera FIESTA among Rosario’s many elegant early-20th-
century buildings, this art nouveau gem
Climaxing in ceremonies on June 20, the is a standout. It’s a flawless contemporary
anniversary of the death of Belgrano, Flag
Week is Rosario’s major fiesta. conversion; rooms feature modern conveni-
ences that blend well with the centenarian
4 Sleeping features. An indoor pool, elegant cafe-bar
and roof garden are among the attractions.
There are dozens of hostels, but they’re of- It’s popular during events, so don’t expect a
ten block-booked by groups of police or oth- peaceful stay.
er government workers. There’s also a herd I g ua zú Fa ll s & th e N o rth e as t RAF elosostanirgviatolhse &R íEov ePnatrsan á
of average midrange hotels. Prices generally 1412 HOTEL $$
drop midweek. (%0341-448-7755; www.1412.com.ar; Zeballos
Residence Boutique Hostel HOTEL, HOSTEL $ 1412; r US$84; aW) Comfortably stylish, this
(%0341-421-8148; www.residenceboutique.com. decent-value modern hotel is perfectly lo-
ar; Buenos Aires 1145; dm/d/tr US$23/60/80; cated for sorties to the busy restaurant strip
aiW) Rather a special place, this lovely on Avenida Carlos Pellegrini. The handsome
early-20th-century building houses a serene, lobby offers free tea, coffee and cakes all
beautiful hotel and hostel. Public spaces are day, while rooms are pleasingly, flawlessly
full of art nouveau flourishes, and the com- modern.
pact, stylish private rooms offer great value
for this level of comfort. Dorms are simi- Plaza Real HOTEL $$
larly upmarket, and the little garden patio (% 0341-440-8800; www.plazarealhotel.com;
and breakfast area are lovely places to relax. Santa Fe 1632; standard/superior r US$118/140;
Original and striking. aiWs) Luxurious rooms, apartments
and suites are to be had in this business ho-
tel with rooftop pool. Fine facilities – gym,
La Casa de Arriba HOSTEL $ sauna, pool, open-air Jacuzzi – a cracking
(%0341-430-0012; www.lacasadearriba.com.ar;
Córdoba 2889; dm weekend/weekday US$19/15; breakfast and polite friendly service make it
a reliable choice.
iW) A designer’s flair has made a fabulous
hostel from this old house. Exposed brick,
creative use of space, modern shelf-style Roberta Rosa de
bunks and a welcoming attitude makes this Fontana Suites APARTMENT $$
(%0341-449-6767; www.rrdfsuites.com.ar; Entre
a comfortable, stylish Rosario base. Its dis- Ríos 914; s/d US$79/88; aWc) Situated very
tance from the center is offset by its relative
proximity to bars and nightlife. centrally above a colorful cafe, these rooms
are modern and commodious, with brushed
concrete ceilings, black floors and a small
Hotel La Paz HOTEL $ kitchenette. They come in various sizes,
(%0341-421-0905; www.hotellapazrosario.com.ar;
Barón de Maua 36; s/d US$35/42; aiW) Well making it a good family option.
positioned on Plaza Montenegro, and still Catamarca Suites Land HOTEL $$
looking good after 70 years in operation,
this welcoming budget hotel offers value for (%0341-440-0020; www.catamarcasuitesland.
com.ar; Catamarca 1219; r US$75; aW) Spacious
money. Family rooms at the front have bal- apartment-style doubles with breakfast bar,
conies overlooking Plaza Montenegro.
microwave and minibar have plenty of style,
while big comfy beds and powerful showers
La Casa de Pandora HOSTEL $ add value. Rooms have a balcony looking
(%0341-679-9314; www.lacasadepandora.com.ar;
Entre Ríos 583; dm US$14-15; iW) Small, arty down the street to the Paraná and there’s a
small roof terrace with a Jacuzzi. Breakfast
and welcoming, this is one of many Rosario is brought up to your room. Cash only.
hostels but it does some basics – cleaning, for
156
Rosario B â#ú#6 27 C D
A Rosarío Norte
Costanera NorteD
1 & Beaches (3.5km) £# (Main Railway
Station)
Güemes
Av O Lagos
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M Rodríguez
Pueyrredón
Santiago
Alvear
45 Brown #ú 31 #ú 36
û# #û 26 29 #ú #ú
Jujuy ý#
# 47
48 #û Salta 50
14 Tucumán 41 #û
Urquiza BalcarceCatamarca
2 San Lorenzo Blvd Oroño
Santa Fe Moreno æ#
Long-distance Bus Córdoba Dorrego
Terminal (700m); Rioja Italia 40
–# (6km) San Luis España
Roca ú#
49 Paraguay ÿ#
Av Corrientes
#ý Entre Ríos ÿ#
ÿ#
4
3 20
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I g ua zú Fa ll s & th e N o rth e as t SRA loeoseanprgintogh e R í o Paran á Plaza 22
San 35
ÿ#
8 â# Martín #ï ú##û
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Mendoza 24 ÿ#
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Balcarce
4 3 de Febrero ›# 100000008 ÿ#0000000ÿ#0000000
39 Plaza de
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11 Av ý#C52arlAMovsudInPseâ#teeMBlol9eeoMglrlcrauiilnslnoi Aic2ritpâ#easlCoch4ü#a4bamMb#úaoZn3eteb7vaildloeso 51
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Av Corrientes
Entre Ríos
Mitre
Sarmíento
San Martín
â# 7 Rosario Sur
£# (5.5km)
AB CD
Hotel Plaza del Sol HOTEL $$ comfortable. It’s the best of the clutch of
(%0341-426-4448; www.hotelesplaza.com; San hotels on Plaza Montenegro; there’s a gym,
Juan 1055; s/d US$111/122; aiWs) Despite sauna, sundeck and heated indoor pool on
a tired facade, renovated rooms here look the 11th floor, plus helpful service. It’s de-
good; most are very spacious, all have bal- cent value if you get an online deal or cash
conies and hydromassage tub, and beds are discount.
157
e# 0 500 m many rooms. The deluxe-plus rooms are
0 0.25 miles somewhat bigger than the first-category de-
E F luxe rooms, and feature a bathtub. Executive
suites have a Jacuzzi.
Paraná 1 Puerto Norte Hotel HOTEL $$$
Delta (%0341-436-2700; www.puertonortehotel.com; Car-
3 #æ
ballo 148; city/executive/premium r US$176/200/
2 36; aiWs) In a new riverside development
north of the center, this flashy hotel is built
Río Paraná atop 14 former grain silos, the circular spaces
of which house the reception and bar. Rooms
are handsome and well-equipped, with coffee-
ENTRE pod machines and beds backed by whole-wall
RÍOS 2
photos of old Rosario. The restaurant and
Av #æ 10 rooftop spa complex, including outdoor and
SANTA
Mitredel Huert FE indoor pools, have spectacular panoramas.
#ú Cheapest-category city views are more in- I g ua zú Fa ll s & th e N o rth e as t AREalotosiannrggitoh e R í o Paran á
ÿ#ÿ#25 o teresting than those from executive rooms.
Sarmíento For brilliant river views, you’ll need to up-
16 San MartínTucumán grade to a premium room or suite.
ÿ# ú#35#û4U2rq3u8#úizÿ#1a7S4a3Snatû#anFL1eoû#34r#e6nzdPNoaearclqaiouBneaa#ïnl d#þera5C3osStaunræ#era5 3 5 Eating
Córdoba Plaza 25 de Monumento Central Rosario seems empty come supper
Mayo time. That’s because half the city is out
1 á# Nacional a on Av Carlos Pellegrini. Between Buenos
Rioja ò# 34 La Bandera 4 Aires and Moreno there’s a vast number of
family-friendly eateries, including barnlike
ÿ#00000000ÿ#00000000MP00000000loazn00000000atenegro ú# # 11 parrillas (steak restaurants), dozens of
pizza places, buffets, bars and excellent ice-
San Luis creameries. Just stroll along and take your
pick. Most places have street terraces.
19 ú# San Juan AvABv edleg la oLa Marina SPANISH, SEAFOOD $
(1 de Mayo 890; mains AR$40-95; hnoon-4pm
30 Mendÿ#oz2a300000ú#3000002 00000
Li brearntoad & 8pm-midnight Mon-Sat) Just above the flag
monument, this basement place decorated
with faded Spanish tourism posters is a top
Maipú 5 spot for inexpensive and really delicious sea-
Laprida
Buenos Aires 3 de Febrero food, like rabas (calamari) or succulent river
JM de Rosas fish on the grill. No bookings, so be prepared
1 de Mayo 9 de Julio to wait, as it’s deservedly popular. Don’t con-
LN Alem
Ayacucho Zeballos fuse with the restaurant above.
Montevideo Lo Mejor del Centro PARRILLA $
Carlos Pellegrini (Santa Fe 1166; mains AR$65-160; hnoon-3pm &
Av 8pm-midnight; W) When this parrilla went
6
bust, the staff managed to reopen it as a co-
operative, and what a great job they’ve done.
The meat’s as good as you’ll taste in Rosario,
EF but you can also enjoy homemade pasta,
paella, creative salads and a warm, conviv-
ial buzz at the tightly packed, ageing tables.
Ros Tower HOTEL $$$ There are various midweek set menus that
(%0341-529-9000; www.rostower.com.ar; Mitre
295; deluxe/deluxe-plus r US$176/200, junior/ are great value.
executive ste US$230/272; aiWs) Offering El Ancla ARGENTINE $
great service and facilities, this sleek busi-
ness-spa hotel offers top river views from (Maipú 1101; mains AR$50-100; h7am-1am
Mon-Fri, 8am-4pm & 7pm-1am Sat, 10am-4pm &
158
I g ua zú Fa ll s & th e N o rth e as t RAEalotosiannrggitoh e R í o Paran á Rosario ú Eating
26 Comedor Balcarce ..................................C2
æ Top Sights 27 Davis.......................................................... C1
1 Monumento Nacional a La Bandera......F4 28 De Buen Humor .......................................D4
2 Museo Municipal de Bellas Artes ......... B5 29 Don Ferro.................................................. D1
3 Paraná Delta............................................. F1 30 El Ancla .....................................................E4
31 El Viejo Balcón ......................................... C1
æ Sights 32 La Chernia, El Chucho y La Cholga ....... E5
4 Casa Natal de 'Che' Guevara................. D3 33 La Estancia...............................................C5
5 Costanera Sur ..........................................F4 34 La Marina.................................................. F4
6 Museo de Arte Contemporáneo de 35 Lo Mejor del Centro.................................D3
Rosario ...................................................C1 36 Los Jardines............................................. D1
7 Museo de la Ciudad ................................ B6 37 Los Potrillos .............................................B5
8 Museo de la Memoria............................. C3 38 Nuria.......................................................... E3
9 Museo Histórico Provincial.................... A5 39 Restaurant Bruno....................................A5
10 Parque de España....................................E2 40 Zazpirak Bat.............................................D2
Ø Activities, Courses & Tours û Drinking & Nightlife
11 Estación Fluvial ........................................F4 41 Bound........................................................C2
12 Jardín de los Niños ................................. A5 42 El Cairo...................................................... E3
13 Rosario Free Tour ....................................E3 43 El Diablito.................................................. E3
Rosario Kayak & Motor Boat 44 Espiria .......................................................B5
Tours .............................................(see 11) 45 Fenicia....................................................... A1
14 Spanish in Rosario.................................. A2 46 Pasaporte ................................................. E3
47 Pichangú...................................................B2
ÿ Sleeping 48 Rock & Feller's .........................................C2
15 1412........................................................... D5
16 Catamarca Suites Land ..........................E3 ý Entertainment
17 Esplendor Savoy Rosario........................E3 49 Distrito Siete ............................................A3
18 Hotel La Paz............................................. D4 50 La Casa del Tango...................................D2
19 Hotel Plaza del Sol.................................. D4 51 La Chamuyera .........................................D5
20 La Casa de Arriba.................................... A3 52 Newell's Old Boys....................................A5
21 La Casa de Pandora ............................... D3
22 Plaza Real................................................. D3 þ Shopping
23 Residence Boutique Hostel....................E5 53 Mercado de Pulgas del Bajo................... F4
24 Roberta Rosa de Fontana Suites.......... D4
25 Ros Tower.................................................E3
7pm-1am Sun) One of Rosario’s many beloved tional diner) is one of a fast-disappearing
corner restaurants, this much-frequented breed. Home-style Argentine cooking comes
local has an appealingly venerable interior in big portions. Quality is average to good,
and an authentic feel. The food – with lots of prices are great and it’s an authentic, friend-
inexpensive single-plate meals – is reliably ly experience. Don’t let its affectionate nick-
good and you always seem to get a friendly name, El Vómito (the Vomit), put you off.
welcome. A good budget choice.
Nuria BAKERY $
(www.nuria.com.ar; Santa Fe 1026; pastries from
De Buen Humor ICE CREAM $ AR$15; h7am-9pm Mon-Sat, 7am-7pm Sun) This
(www.debuenhumorhelados.com.ar; Rioja 1560;
cones AR$24-42; h10am-11pm; Wvc) Ice much-loved Rosario institution – now with
cream here comes from happy cows, they several more modern outlets around town –
say. We can’t vouch for that, but anyone with is still a seductively old-fashioned place to
a sweet tooth will be mooing contentedly at pick up delicious pastries and cakes.
the optimism-filled decor, patio seating, and
tasty cones, concoctions and fruit salads. Ro oZazpirak Bat BASQUE $$
(www.zazpirakbat.com; Entre Ríos 261; mains
sarinos eat 7kg of ice-cream each per year, AR$80-150; h8pm-12:30am Tue-Sat, 12:30-4pm
so you’ve got some catching-up to do.
Sun) From outside, this Basque cultural
Comedor Balcarce ARGENTINE $ center gives few clues that there’s a restau-
(cnr Balcarce & Brown; mains AR$50-120; hnoon-
3pm & 8:15pm-midnight Mon-Sat) In business for rant inside, and the menu seems a little
humdrum at first glance. But what a place
decades, this typical corner bodegón (tradi- this is. Fish and seafood are prepared to give
159
maximum expression to the natural flavors; interior with trattoria-style comfort works.
it’s all delicious, quantities are enormous, Portions are large.
and the salads are particularly praiseworthy.
Los Potrillos PARRILLA $$
(%0341-482-4027; www.lospotrillos.com.ar; cnr
Escauriza SEAFOOD $$
(%0341-454-1777; cnr Bajada Escauriza & Paseo Av Carlos Pellegrini & Moreno; mains AR$140-210;
Ribereño; mains AR$110-195; hnoon-3:30pm & hnoon-3:30pm & 8pm-1am; W) Decorated with
8pm-midnight) Backing Florida beach, this warm colors and a sweeping horse mural,
legendary place is one of Rosario’s best this parrilla offers plenty more than just
spots for fish. The enormous indoor-outdoor grilled meat, with a fine selection of river
dining area is redolent with the aromas of fish and other seafood dishes, tasty home-
chargrilling river catch like surubí; start made pasta and a decent wine list. It’s high
with some delicious seafood empanadas. on quality and quantity and the menu is rea-
Service, quality and quantity are all highly sonably translated for once.
impressive. Book, get there at noon, or wait
and wait at summer weekend lunchtimes. Los Jardines ARGENTINE $$
(www.losjardinesenrosario.com; Paraná riverbank
No credit cards. Awful coffee. near España; mains AR$80-190; h8am-midnight)
Don Ferro PARRILLA $$ With a stepped terrace right down by the river I g ua zú Fa ll s & th e N o rth e as t RDA loroisnankrgintogh e& RNí iogPhatrlaifneá
(www.puertoespana.com.ar; riverbank nr España; (access by lift or stairs behind the Don Ferro
mains AR$100-220; h7:30am-1am; W) The restaurant), this has a lovely setting, though
handsomest restaurant in town, Don Ferro is rusty piping and a fishing pier obscure some
exquisitely set in an old brick railroad shed, of the view. A wide-ranging menu includes
with a delightful terrace on the platform, ex- a decent weekday lunch deal, large salads,
cellent service and seriously delicious meat. cocktails, grilled river fish and more. Quality
The menu is wide-ranging, though, and has is up and down, but it’s a fine hideaway.
mixed-grilled vegetables and more meaty op-
tions than most. Wines are very overpriced. La Chernia, El Chucho y
It’s on the riverbank near España. La Cholga SEAFOOD $$
(www.rubenmolinengo.com; cnr JM de Rosas &
Mendoza; mains AR$100-205; h11:30am-3pm
El Viejo Balcón PARRILLA $$ & 8:30pm-midnight) Step back a century in
(cnr Italia &Wheelwright; mainsAR$90-190; hnoon-
3pm & 8pm-midnight) Be prepared to wait for time as you walk into this beautifully deco-
a table at this long-time Rosario favorite in rated romantic corner restaurant. The long
a parrilla-rich zone by the river. The meat menu is all fish, from local river varieties to
is generously proportioned and of excellent stews and soups bursting with tasty seafood.
quality: staff even listen to how you want Shared platters for two are an enjoyable and
it cooked. But there’s enough on the menu good-value way to go here.
here – crepes, pastas – to cater for all tastes.
Davis ARGENTINE $$$
(%0341-435-7142; www.complejodavis.com; Av
La Estancia PARRILLA $$ de la Costa 2550; mains AR$155-235, bar snacks
(www.parrillalaestancia.com.ar; Av Carlos Pellegrini
1501; mains AR$100-220; hnoon-3:30pm & 8pm- AR$65-150; h9am-1am Tue-Thu & Sun, 9am-2am
1am, to 2am Fri & Sat; W) A sound choice on the Fri & Sat, 12:30pm-1am Mon; W) Occupying Ro-
Pellegrini strip, this typical upmarket grill- sario’s most charming position, right on the
house has really excellent cuts of meat – the river below the contemporary art museum
vacío (flank steak) is special – allied with with 180-degree views, Davis offers a smart
enough waiters that you’ll never have to, er, restaurant inside a glass cube, and outdoor
wait. The only downsides are closely spaced riverside seating with an overpriced bar
tables and a mediocre wine list. menu of sandwiches and similar. The eats
are much better inside – try the riverfish
Restaurant Bruno ITALIAN $$ platter for two – but have a beer on the deck
(Montevideo 2798; pasta AR$125-185; h8pm-
midnight Tue-Sat, noon-3:30pm & 8-11pm Sun) first to make the most of the location.
An elegant villa a block from Pellegrini is 6 Drinking & Nightlife
decorated with dark wood and tasteful gon-
dolier prints. Well-heeled locals flock here Rosario has a great number of restobares,
for homemade pasta, which has a huge rep- which function as hybrid cafes and bars and
utation. Go for gnocchi, lasagna or canelloni generally serve a fairly standard selection
over fettucini, but the combination of stylish of snacks and plates. Many are good for a
160
Pasaporte BAR
PICHINCHA (cnr Maipú & Urquiza; h7am-late Mon-Fri, 8am-late
Sat & Sun; W) Sublimely cozy with a pretty
Between Oroño and Francia, and north terrace and timeworn wooden furniture, the
of Urquiza, the barrio of Pichincha is Pasaporte is a favorite for morning coffee
the city’s most interesting for nightlife. with workers from the government building
The leafy streets and wide pavements opposite. But it also has a low-key but enjoy-
make it seem a sleepy suburb by day, able evening atmosphere, particularly when
but at night every corner seems to have it’s raining outside.
a quirky bar or hipster restaurant. The
city’s best boliches (nightclubs) are also Fenicia BREWERY
found here.
(www.feniciabrewing.com.ar; Francia 168; hnoon-
late Tue-Fri, 6pm-late Sat & Sun; W) You can
smell the malt at this brewpub, where the
delicious ales are produced right beneath
morning coffee, an evening glass of wine – your feet. It’s a fine place to start exploring
or anything in between. this bar-rich nightlife zone, and it also does
I g ua zú Fa ll s & th e N o rth e as t RAEnlootsaenrgittoahine mReí on tParan á Espiria CAFE a handy line in quesadillas, burgers and
(www.facebook.com/culturaespiria; Montevideo salads. The roof terrace is good on a warm
2124; h8am-1am Mon-Thu, 9am-2am Fri & Sat,
10am-1am Sun; W) Perfect for combining evening. It’s northwest of the city center,
near the train station.
with a visit to the nearby art gallery, this
enchanting cafe-bookshop-gallery occupies Rock & Feller’s BAR
a beautiful house with stained glass and an (www.rockandfellers.com.ar; cnr Blvd Oroño & Jujuy;
h10am-3am; W) This enormous bar is a strik-
enticing patio. Tasty sandwiches, snacks and ing sight with its wall-to-wall guitar-hero
breakfasts (light meals AR$70 to AR$140),
coffees and delicious juices make this one decoration, good-looking bar and terrace
area, and comfy padded stools emblazoned
of Rosario’s most relaxing spots, and it’s a with rock icons. Based on the much-imitated
cocktail venue later, too.
Hard Rock Café template, this is very popu-
El Diablito PUB lar locally for its menu of pizzas, sandwiches
(Maipú 622; h9pm-3:30am Tue-Sat) With a red- and the like. At night it’s fairly dressy, though
lit interior true to its origins as a brothel,
this place has an atmosphere all of its own. most of the bands featured wouldn’t get in.
The soundtrack is 70s and 80s rock, and the Bound CLUB
decor is sumptuous with stained-glass pan- (Blvd Oroño 198; h9pm-late Fri & Sat) Rosario’s
best boliche at the time of writing, this styl-
els and age-spotted mirrors. A classic place ish spot is in the heart of the liveliest night-
to drink.
life zone. It operates a pretty fascist door
Pichangú BAR policy, so think twice if the queue’s long.
(cnr Salta & Rodríguez; h6pm-1am Mon-Wed, 3 Entertainment
6pm-2am Thu, 7pm-3am Fri & Sat) Brightly lit
and cheerful, this inviting corner space is a
co-operative that puts on regular music and There are lots of tango places in Rosario;
other cultural events. It’s a social, slightly grab the monthly listings booklet from
chaotic scene and a good place to meet lo- the tourist office and check www.rosario
cals. It does a reasonable line in pizzas and turismo.com.
the like, with several vegan options.
Rosario has two rival fútbol teams with
El Cairo BAR several league titles between them. Newell’s
Old Boys (%0341-425-4422; www.newellsold
(www.barelcairo.com; cnr Sarmiento & Santa Fe; boys.com.ar; Parque Independencia) plays in
h8am-1am Mon-Thu, 8am-2am Fri & Sat, 10am- red and black at Estadio Marcelo Bielsa
1am Sun; W) High-ceilinged and elegant, with and has a long, proud history of producing
huge panes of glass for people-w atching great Argentine players. Rosario Central
(and vice versa), this classic Rosario cafe is (%0341-421-0000; www.rosariocentral.com; cnr
good at any time of day, but especially in the Blvd Avellaneda & Génova) plays in blue and yel-
evening, when it mixes a decent cocktail and low stripes at Estadio ‘El Gigante de Arroy-
puts on good Argentine pub grub. This is ito’. Buy tickets from the stadiums from two
also one of the rare places that serve mate. hours before the match.
161
La Casa del Tango TANGO 88 Getting There & Away
(www.facebook.com/casadeltangorosario; Av Illia
1750; h9am-noon Mon-Fri) This tango center AIR
has info on performances and classes Aerolíneas Argentinas (% 0810-222-86527;
around town, often offers fun, very cheap www.aerolineas.com.ar; España 840; h10am-
evening lessons, and stages various events. 6pm Mon-Fri, 9am-noon Sat) Flies daily to
Regular 9pm Saturday concerts are a great Buenos Aires. Also serves Mendoza, Córdoba,
deal at AR$50. There’s also a good cafe and El Calafate and Puerto Iguazú.
restaurant. It’s on the riverbank road near Gol (www.voegol.com.br) Serves São Paulo and
the junction with España. Rio de Janeiro in Brazil.
Sol (% 0810-444-4765; www.sol.com.ar) Flies
Distrito Siete LIVE MUSIC daily to Buenos Aires and also services Cór-
doba and, seasonally, Punta del Este.
(www.facebook.com/distritosie7e; Av Lagos 790; TAM (www.tam.com.br) Flies to São Paulo in
h9am-1am Mon-Thu, 9am-4:30am Fri & Sat, 6pm- Brazil.
1am Sun; W) This warehouse-like industrial
space is run by the Giros local social move-
ment and sees plenty of live acts as well as BUS I g ua zú Fa ll s & th e N o rth e as t RAS hlooosanprgpiitonhge R í o Paran á
classes, activities, a cheap daily meal, and a The modernized long-distance bus terminal
bar where you can stop for a coffee or beer (% 0341-437-3030; www.terminalrosario.gob.
and see what’s going on. ar; Cafferata & Santa Fe) is 25 blocks west of
downtown. To get there, any bus along Santa Fe
will do the trick. From there, take a bus marked
La Chamuyera TANGO ‘Centro’ or ‘Plaza Sarmiento.’ It’s about AR$40
(Av Corrientes 1380; hMon-Sun) With an un- to AR$70 in a taxi.
derground feel reminiscent of its semi- There are direct daily services to nearly all
illegal past, this atmospheric venue is one major destinations, including international
of Rosario’s best tango spots. The Thursday services.
milonga kicks off at 10:30pm and there’s a
practice session on Monday nights. Other Buses from Rosario
events include language nights, poetry read- DESTINATION COST (AR$) TIME (HR)
ings and a variety of concerts: it’s always Buenos Aires 250-285 4
worth stopping by for a beer and a look.
Córdoba 360 5½-7
7 Shopping Corrientes 641 9-11
Mercado de Pulgas del Bajo MARKET Mendoza 750-820 12-15
Paraná 150-170 3-3½
(Av Belgrano; h2-8pm Sat, noon-8pm Sun) A Posadas 879 14-15
small handicrafts market by the tourist Salta 1220 14-17
office, where dealers sell everything from Santa Fe 117-128 2½-3½
silverwork to leather goods. There are sev- Tucumán 812 11-13
eral other weekend markets along the river
bank, including an excellent Sunday retro
market near where Oroño meets the ‘coast.’
88 Information TRAIN
From Rosario Sur train station (www.trenes
All-night pharmacies include one on the corner argentinos.gob.ar; cnr San Martín & Battle y
of San Lorenzo and Entre Ríos. Ordóñez; h ticket office 6pm-1am), 7.5km south
Bus Terminal Tourist Information (www. of the center down Avenida San Martín, new
rosarioturismo.com; Terminal de Ómnibus; trains run an improved service daily to Buenos
h 9am-7pm) Opposite platform 32. Aires (second/first class AR$175/225, 6½
Hospital Clemente Álvarez (% 0341-480-8111; hours), leaving Rosario at 12:26am and leaving
Av Carlos Pellegrini 3205) Southwest of the Retiro at 4:07pm.
city center.
Tourist Kiosk (Córdoba, nr Av Corrientes; Other trains stopping at Rosario Norte train
h 8am-7pm Mon-Fri, 9am-7pm Sat, 10am-6pm station (www.trenesargentinos.gob.ar; Av del
Sun) On the main pedestrian street. Valle 2750) en route between Buenos Aires and
Tourist Office (% 0341-480-2230; www. Córdoba, and Buenos Aires and Tucumán, are
rosarioturismo.com; Av del Huerto; h 8am-7pm slow, downmarket and cheap. They book out well
Mon-Fri, 9am-7pm Sat, 9am-6pm Sun) On the in advance.
riverbank in the city center. Very helpful, and
the website is excellent. Bus 140 runs south down Sarmiento to the
Rosario Sur station. Take bus 134 north up Mitre
to a block from the Rosario Norte train station.
PATRICK GIJSBERS/GETTY IMAGES ©
©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd ANIBAL TREJO/SHUTTERSTOCK ©
162
163AWAKENING/GETTY IMAGES ©
1. Monumento Nacional a La LEANDRO HERRAINZ/GETTY IMAGES ©
Bandera (p151)
Built where the Argentine blue-and-white
flag was first raised, this obelisk also marks
the resting place of the flag’s designer,
Manuel Belgrano.
2. Gualeguaychú Carnaval (p183)
Argentina’s longest and flashiest Carnaval
celebration kicks off in summer.
3. Reserva Provincial Esteros del
Iberá (p177)
These wetlands are full of wildlife, including
beautiful orange-colored marsh deer.
4. San Ignacio Miní (p192)
The best-preserved mission ruins in all of
Argentina.
164 built in 1680. While the museum is medi
ocre, the church is beautiful, with an exqui-
88 Getting Around site wooden ceiling. The lovely cloister has a
real colonial feel and is full of birdsong and
TO/FROM THE AIRPORT the perfume of flowers. The monastery is
For the airport (Fisherton; % 0341-451-3220; still home to a handful of monks.
www.aeropuertorosario.com; Av Jorge Newbery
s/n), 8km west, bus 115 runs west along Santa On your left as you enter the church is a
Fe. A taxi will charge around AR$130. fine polychrome Christ by grumpy Spanish
master Alonso Cano, sent as a sympathy gift
BICYCLE by the Queen of Spain when the town moved
To rent a bike, Rosario Kayak & Motor Boat in 1649. By the altar, a stone marks the tomb
Tours (p154) at the Estación Fluvial, has well- of a priest killed by a jaguar taking refuge in
equipped town bikes for AR$150 per day. You’ll the church during 1825 flooding.
need your passport and an AR$300 deposit.
oMuseo Histórico Provincial MUSEUM
BUS
Local buses run from the terminal on Plaza (www.museobrigadierlopez.gob.ar; Av San Martín
Sarmiento (see www.rosario.gov.ar). You can 1490; admission AR$10; h8:30am-12:30pm &
pay the AR$6.50 fare in coins, but unless you’ve 2:30-8:30pm Tue-Fri, 5:30-8:30pm Sat & Sun) In
I g ua zú Fa ll s & th e N o rth e as t SGA aleont nt aignFtgehAerRoíuonPdaran ábroken a piggy bank, it’s much easier to buy a a lovable 17th-century building, this mu-
rechargeable AR$25 card from little booths at seum has a variety of possessions and me-
many major central bus stops. Trips then cost mentos of various provincial governors and
AR$5.75.
caudillos (provincial strongmen), as well
as religious art and fine period furnishings,
Santa Fe including a sedan chair once used to carry
around the Viceroy of Río de la Plata. Open-
% 0342 / POP 526,100 ing hours are for summer: it doesn’t close
mid-afternoon the rest of the year.
There’s quite a contrast between Santa Fe’s
relaxed center, where colonial buildings age Museo Etnográfico y Colonial
gracefully in the humid heat and nobody
seems to get beyond an amble, and a Friday Provincial MUSEUM
evening in the Recoleta district, where uni-
versity students in dozens of bars show the (www.museojuandegaray.gob.ar; 25 de Mayo 1470;
night no mercy. Capital of its province, but donation AR$4; h8:30am-12:30pm & 3-7pm Tue-
with a small-town feel, Santa Fe is an excel- Fri, 8:30am-12:30pm & 4-7pm Sat & Sun) Run
lent place to visit for a day or two. with heartwarming enthusiasm by local
teachers, this museum has a chronological
Santa Fe (de la Veracruz) moved here in display of stone tools, Guaraní ceramics,
1651 from its original location at Cayastá, jewelry, carved bricks and colonial objects.
75km to the north. In 1853, Argentina’s first Highlights include a set of tablas – a colo-
constitution was ratified by an assembly nial game similar to backgammon – and a
meeting here; these days ambitious river- scale model of both original Santa Fe settle-
front rehabilitation has added extra appeal ments. Afternoon opening hours vary.
to this historic city.
Plaza 25 de Mayo SQUARE
Santa Fe’s remaining colonial buildings
are within a short walk of Plaza 25 de Mayo. The center of colonial Santa Fe is a peaceful
Av San Martín, north of the plaza, is the ma- square framed by fine buildings. The vast
jor commercial street and part of it forms an Casa de Gobierno (Government House; Pl 25
attractive peatonal (pedestrian street) with de Mayo) was built in 1909 and replaced the
palms and terraces. demolished cabildo (town council building),
seat of the 1852 constitutional assembly. On
To the east, a bridge crosses the river, then the square’s east side, the exterior simplici-
a tunnel beneath the Paraná connects Santa ty of the Jesuit Iglesia de la Compañía (Pl
Fe with its twin city of Paraná in Entre Ríos.
1 Sights 25 de Mayo) masks an ornate interior. The
cathedral (Pl 25 de Mayo) is a little under-
oConvento y Museo de San whelming by comparison, and dates from
Francisco MONASTERY the mid-18th century.
(Amenábar 2257; admission AR$15; h8am-
12:30pm & 3:30-7pm Tue-Fri, 8am-noon & 4-7pm
Sat) Santa Fe’s principal historical landmark Cervecería Santa Fe BREWERY
is this Franciscan monastery and museum, (%0342-450-2237; www.cervezasantafe.com.
ar; Calchines 1401) This is the brewery that
165
produces Santa Fe lager as well as brewing aWs) An early 20th-century flour mag-
Budweiser and Heineken under license. Free nate’s mansion has been converted into this
tours run at 5pm Tuesday to Saturday; you’ll compact, rather lovely hotel. Exquisitely
need to wear sturdy footwear and long pants decorated rooms were each designed as a
for safety reasons. Numbers are limited: you charity project by different architects; all are
can reserve online. charming. Premium category rooms have
high ceilings and venerable floorboards,
T Tours while ‘superior’ rooms are in the modern
upstairs annex but don’t lack charm. A little
Costa Litoral BOAT TOUR spa-style plunge pool sits between floors.
(%0342-456-4381; www.costalitoral.info; Dique 1)
From the redeveloped harbor area, a large
catamaran runs weekend trips around the Los Silos HOTEL $$
(%0342-450-2800; www.hotellossilos.com.ar;
river islands (adult/child AR$160/100, two Dique 1; s/d US$120/134; aiWsc) Santa
hours, 11am Saturday and Sunday) or to
Paraná (adult/child AR$260/160, 5½ hours, Fe’s decaying waterfront has been smart-
ened, and this creatively designed hotel is a
2pm Saturday and Sunday) with a couple of centerpiece. Brilliantly converted from grain
hours to explore the city. Book tickets in the
cafe opposite the dock. silos, it features original, rounded rooms I g ua zú Fa ll s & th e N o rth e as t SAT oal onurntsag Fteh e R í o Paran á
with marvelous views and plenty of modern
4 Sleeping comfort, though some are looking in need of
a touch-up. Vistas from the rooftop pool, spa
The area around the bus terminal is the and sundeck are super, and service is excel-
budget-hotel zone. Nearly all hotels offer a lent throughout.
discount for cash payment. A handsome cafe and a play area for kids
Hotel Constituyentes HOTEL $ are other highlights; there’s also an attached
casino.
(%0342-452-1586; www.hotelconstituyentes.com.
ar; San Luis 2862; s/d US$35/45, without bathroom
US$25/35; aiW) Spacious rooms, low pric- 5 Eating
es and proximity to the bus terminal are the The best zones for cheap eats are across
main drawcards of this relaxed place. It’s not from the bus terminal, and the nightlife
luxury, but the owners are always looking zone of La Recoleta.
to improve things and it makes a pleasant
budget base. Rooms at the front suffer from El Quincho de Chiquito ARGENTINE $
(cnr Brown & Obispo Vieytes; set menu AR$150;
street noise. Breakfast is extra. h11:30am-3pm & 8pm-midnight) This legend-
Hotel Galeón HOTEL $ ary local institution is the place for river fish,
(%0342-454-1788; www.hotelgaleon.com.ar; Bel- on the costanera 6km north of downtown.
grano 2759; s/d US$52/64; aiW) Handy for There are few frills and no choice: four or
the bus, this unusual hotel is all curved sur- five courses of delicious surubí, sábalo or
faces and weird angles. There’s a variety of pacú are brought out; you can repeat as of-
room types, none of which is a conventional ten as you want. Drinks are extra but cheap.
shape; the place is in need of a refit but the It’s around AR$50 each way in a taxi (staff
beds are comfortable enough and wi-fi is de- will call you one to take you back) or catch
cent. Substantial discounts offered for cash. bus 16 from any point on the waterfront road.
Hostal Santa Fe de la Veracruz HOTEL $ Club Social Sirio Libanés MIDDLE EASTERN $
(%0342-455-1740; www.hostalsf.com; Av San (25 de Mayo 2740; mains AR$50-130; h11:30am-
Mart ín 2954; standard s/d US$46/63, superior 2:30pm & 7-11:30pm Tue-Sun; W) Hidden down
US$66/80; aiW) Decorated with indige- a passageway leading to a gym, this offers
nous motifs, this retro hotel on the pedes- tasty, well-prepared Middle Eastern–style
trian street offers polite service, spacious dishes as well as river fish, pasta and par
superior rooms and slightly downbeat stand- rilla options; it’s a pleasingly unusual place
ards. It’s time for repainting though – those to eat. There’s outdoor seating in the interior
dozen shades of beige are looking very dated. patio. Kitchen closes at 2pm at lunch.
Siesta fans will love the 6pm checkout.
Merengo BAKERY $
oÁmbit Boulevard (Av General López 2632; alfajores from AR$5;
BOUTIQUE HOTEL $$ h9am-12:30pm & 3-8pm) In 1851, Merengo
(%0342-455-7179; www.ambithotel.com.ar; Blvd
Gálvez 1408; superior/premium r US$100/112; stuck two biscuits together with dulce de
166 B C e# 0 400 m
0 0.2 miles
Santa Fe D
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San Jerónimo 25 de Mayo M Candioti
Av Rivadavia Necochea 4
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2 Suipacha Belgrano Calchines 5
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Av Museo Histórico
3 Provincial
â#7
Amenábar #ï æ# 1 y Museo
Provincial Convento
7 Tourist Office de San Francisco
Entre Ríos Club Atlético
Colón (1.5km);
D
–# (7km)
AB C
167
Santa Fe destrian street is a lovely space, with high ceil-
ings, attentive waistcoat-and-tie staff and an
æ Top Sights old-fashioned feel. There’s a huge menu that
1 Convento y Museo de San covers the range of fish (both locally caught
Francisco ............................................B7 and from the sea), steaks, pasta, chicken and
2 Museo Histórico Provincial..................B7 crepes, with a few Spanish dishes thrown in to
justify the name. The wine list is a winner, too.
æ Sights
3 Casa de Gobierno .................................A7 El Aljibe ITALIAN $$
4 Cathedral ...............................................A6 (%0342-456-2162; Tucumán 2950; mains AR$80-
5 Cervecería Santa Fe .............................D2 160; hnoon-2:30pm & 9pm-12:30am Tue-Sat,
6 Iglesia de la Compañía .........................B6 noon-2:30pm Sun & Mon; W) Warmly lit and
7 Museo Etnográfico y Colonial cordial, this appealing neighborhood Italian
Provincial ............................................B7 uses great ingredients to create flavor-filled
8 Plaza 25 de Mayo ..................................A6 salads, pasta and meat dishes.
Ø Activities, Courses & Tours 6 Drinking & Nightlife
9 Costa Litoral ..........................................B4
ÿ Sleeping Santa Fe’s nightlife centers on the inter I g ua zú Fa ll s & th e N o rth e as t DSA alroninntkagiFntegh e& RNí iogPhatrlaifneá
10 Ámbit Boulevard ................................... D1 section of 25 de Mayo and Santiago del
11 Hostal Santa Fe de la Veracruz...........B3 Estero, the heart of the area known as La
12 Hotel Constituyentes ...........................B3 Recoleta, which goes wild on weekend
13 Hotel Galeón..........................................B3 nights – a crazy contrast to the sedate pace
14 Los Silos ................................................ C4 of life downtown. Places change name and
ú Eating popularity rapidly, so just take a look around
15 Club Social Sirio Libanés .....................B3 the dozens of bars and clubs.
16 El Aljibe...................................................A4 Chopería Santa Fe BAR
17 La Boutique del Cocinero ....................B3
18 Merengo .................................................A6 (San Jerónimo 3498; h8am-2am; W) A great
19 Restaurante España .............................B3 place to try the local lager is this historic
corner pub. It’s a huge affair, with street-
side tables, a cypress-shaded terrace and an
û Drinking & Nightlife
20 Chopería Santa Fe ................................ A1
21 Patio de la Cerveza ...............................D2 immense interior. A wide range of Argen-
tine bar food – picadas (shared appetizer
plates), sandwiches, pizzas and the like – is
leche (milk caramel) and invented the alfa available to soak it up.
jor, now Argentina’s favorite snack. It’s still Patio de la Cerveza
BREWERY
going strong: this cute little shop on the (cnr Calchines & Lavalle; h2pm-1am) Part of the
plaza is one of several branches. Santa Fe brewery opposite, this picturesque
beer garden has its lager piped across the road
oLa Boutique del via a ‘beerduct’ bridge. It’s a great outdoor
Cocinero INTERNATIONAL $$ setting for a liso, as draft beers, traditionally
(%0342-456-3864; www.laboutiquedelcocinero. served in 8oz cylindrical glasses, are known
com; Yrigoyen 2443; mains AR$130-170, work- hereabouts, and there’s a menu of deli plates,
shops AR$325; hdinner 8:30pm-1am Sat, shop sandwiches, salads, etc to accompany it.
5-8:30pm Mon-Fri) This innovative, welcoming
shop has an open kitchen that hosts socia- 3 Entertainment
ble weekly workshops (normally Thursday
or Friday: check the page) where you cook a The city’s best fútbol team, Colón (www.club
meal – perhaps French, sushi or Lebanese – colon.com.ar), is a regular in the top division.
then sit down to eat it together. On Saturday It plays at the Brigadier Estanislao López
evenings it’s a restaurant, with a short menu stadium, where you can pick up tickets.
of high-quality dishes from various interna- 88 Information
tional cuisines. Great vibes; great spot.
Bus Terminal Tourist Office (% 0342-457-
Restaurante España ARGENTINE $$ 4124; www.santafeturismo.gov.ar; Belgrano
(www.lineaverdehoteles.com; Av San Martín 2644; 2910; h 8am-8pm)
mains AR$120-210; h11:30am-3pm & 8pm- Hospital Provincial José María Cullen
midnight; W) This hotel restaurant on the pe- (% 0342-457-3340; Av Freyre 2150)
I g ua zú Fa ll s & th e N o rth e as t ACGlaeoytantsignttgáhTehReíroe P&aArwaanyá168 daughter of Juan de Garay, who founded
Municipal Tourist Office (% 0342-457-4123; Santa Fe and Buenos Aires. The skeletons
www.santafeturismo.gov.ar; cnr Blvd Gálvez & have now been replaced by replicas, but it’s
Avellaneda; h7am-8pm Mon-Fri, 10am-4pm still a spooky, atmospheric place.
Sat & Sun) In the monumental Belgrano train
station building (turn right as you enter). Hires You can also see remains of two other
bikes for free, but you’ll theoretically need churches, the cabildo (town council) and a
photo ID and a business card or receipt from handsome reconstructed period house. Near
the hotel you’re staying in. the entrance an attractive museum displays
finds, including quality indigenous pottery
88 Getting There & Away with parrot and human motifs.
Aerolíneas Argentinas (www.aerolineas.com. Last entry is strictly one hour before clos-
ar; 25 de Mayo 2287; h 9:30am-5:30pm Mon- ing. If you want to visit in the morning, get
Fri, 9am-noon Sat) and Sol (% 0810-444-4765; the 9am bus from Santa Fe.
www.sol.com.ar) fly to Buenos Aires. The
airport is 7km south of town on RN 11. A remise There’s a mediocre on-site restaurant and
costs about AR$80. a couple of decent parrillas in town. Several
spots in Cayastá and along the RP1 offer cabin-
From the bus terminal (% 0342-457-4124; type lodgings and boat trips on the river.
www.terminalsantafe.com; Belgrano 2910)
there are services throughout the country. Cayastá is 76km northeast of Santa Fe on
Buses to nearby Paraná are frequent but often RP1 and served regularly from Santa Fe’s bus
oversubscribed: prepare for long queues. It’s terminal (AR$58, 1½ hours) by Paraná Me-
AR$350 in a remise. dio. Ask the driver to drop you at las ruinas,
1km short of Cayastá itself.
Buses from Santa Fe
DESTINATION COST (AR$) TIME Paraná
Buenos Aires 410-440 6-7½hr
Córdoba 270-370 5hr % 0343 / POP 247,700
Corrientes 507 6½-8hr
Paraná 16.25 40min Unpretentious Paraná, capital of Entre Ríos
Posadas 750 12hr province, is a sleepy, slow-paced city perched
Resistencia 539 6½-8hr on the hilly banks of its eponymous river.
Rosario 128 2hr There’s a lovely riverbank for strolling and a
Tucumán 774 11½hr few minor attractions. Paraná was the capital
of the Argentine Confederation (which didn’t
include Buenos Aires) from 1853 to 1861.
A tunnel beneath the main channel of the
Paraná connects the city to Santa Fe.
Cayastá 1 Sights
An interesting day trip from Santa Fe takes oMuseo Histórico de Entre Ríos MUSEUM
you to that city’s original location, the
Cayastá ruins (Santa Fe la Vieja; %03405- (cnr Buenos Aires & Laprida; donation AR$5; h8am-
493056; www.santafe-conicet.gov.ar/santafelavieja; 12:30pm & 3-8pm Tue-Fri, 9am-noon & 4-7pm Sat,
RP1, Km78, Cayastá; admission AR$9; h9am-1pm 9am-noon Sun) Flaunting local pride, this mod-
& 3-7pm Tue-Fri, 10am-1pm & 4-7pm Sat & Sun Oct- ern museum on Plaza Alvear contains infor-
Mar, 9am-1pm & 2-6pm Tue-Fri, 10am-1pm & 3-6pm mation on the short-lived Republic of Entre
Sat & Sun Apr-Sep), picturesquely set beside Ríos and the battle of Monte Camperos, as
the Río San Javier, which has eroded away a well as mate paraphernalia and numerous
good portion of them. solid wooden desks and portraits of Urquiza.
Much of it was the collection of a local poet.
There’s ongoing archaeological investi-
gation, but the most fascinating find by far oMuseo y Mercado
has been the Iglesia de San Francisco.
The Spanish and mestizo inhabitants of old Provincial de Artesanías HANDICRAFTS
Santa Fe were buried directly beneath the
earth-floored church, and nearly 100 graves (Av Urquiza 1239; h7am-1pm & 4-8pm Mon-Fri,
have been excavated, including those of Her- 9am-noon Sat) SF Promoting handi-
nando Arias de Saavedra (‘Hernandarias’), crafts from throughout the province, this is
the first locally born governor of Río de a likable little place. Ask the curator to ex-
la Plata province, and his wife, Jerónima, plain things to you; you’ll be amazed at the
intricacy of some of the work, like the hats
made from tightly woven palm fibers.
169
Costanera WATERFRONT stove, microwave and fridge, as well as a
fold-out sofa, decent bathroom and attrac-
From the northern edge of downtown, Par- tive bedroom. In a clean-lined modernized
que Urquiza slopes steeply downward to the building, rates include breakfast and park-
banks of the Río Paraná. During summer, ing, making this a great deal.
the waterfront fills with people strolling,
fishing and swimming. There’s a public
beach, Playa El Parque, west of the Paraná Hotel Bristol HOTEL $
(%0343-431-3961; hotelbristolparana@hotmail.
Rowing Club’s private strand, but a better com; Alsina 221; s/d US$33/49, without bathroom
strip of sand, Playas de Thompson, is 1km
further east, beyond the port. US$21/35; aW) Right by the bus terminal,
this budget hotel is well kept and quiet. It’s
T Tours all very clean, correct, and hospitable. Sim-
ple rooms with small bathrooms offer great
Regular small-boat trips leave at weekends value.
(daily in summer) from behind the tourist
office on the costanera, but safety doesn’t Maran Suites HOTEL $$
seem a high priority. (%0343-423-5444; www.maran.com.ar; cnr Ala
meda de la Federación & Mitre; s US$110-120, d
Costa Litoral BOAT TOUR US$135-145; aiWs) Towering over the
I g ua zú Fa ll s & th e N o rth e as t PAT oal oruarnnsgát h e R í o Paran á
(%0343-423-4385; www.costalitoral.info; Buenos western end of Parque Urquiza, this sleek
Aires 212) This outfit runs weekend after-
noon one-way trips to Santa Fe (adult/child modern hotel has a rare combination of
style and personal service. Try for a room
AR$160/100) and one-hour cruises on the as high as possible, for city or river views.
river (adult/child AR$100/60) in a large
catamaran. Trips leave from near the tourist All are very spacious and decorated with
flair; ‘presidential’ suites (US$280) are big
office on the costanera. enough to get lost in and boast a Jacuzzi
Paraná en Kayak KAYAKING with memorable water vistas.
(%0343-422-7143; www.paranaenkayak.com.ar) Howard Johnson Mayorazgo HOTEL $$$
Easy kayak trips on the river as well as
longer routes. (%0343-420-6800; www.hjmayorazgo.com.ar;
Etchevehere; r from US$177; aWs) The long
4 Sleeping curved facade of this remodeled five-star
dominates the waterfront from above. All
oLas Mañanitas HOTEL $ rooms face the river, are very spacious, and
(%0343-407-4753; www.lasmanianitas.com.ar;
Carbó 62; s/d US$40/65; aiWs) There’s a offer great views from large windows. A little
extra gets you a balcony, but these are lower
summer-house feel about this delightfully down. There’s indoor and outdoor pool, spa,
relaxed little budget place, which has nine
rooms alongside a courtyard and garden gym and a large casino. You’ll find better
rates online. Parking included.
with pool. The rooms are colorful and com-
fortable; they differ widely from darkish 5 Eating
duplexes to simpler, lighter chambers – but
it’s the grace and friendliness of the whole Giovani ARGENTINE $
(Av Urquiza 1045; mains AR$60-110; hnoon-3pm &
ensemble that makes this a winner. 8pm-midnight Mon-Fri, to 1am Sat, to 11pm Sun; W)
Paraná Hostel HOSTEL $ With as-it-should-be service and thoughtful
touches such as free coffee, this stylish res-
(%0343-422-8233; www.paranahostel.com.ar; taurant in the center of town serves excel-
Pazos 159; dm/d US$14/32; aiW) Right in
the mix in central Paraná, this tranquil lent meats from the parrilla and delectable
pasta. There’s a good line in river fish and a
traveler-focused hostel has good security, a rather refined, romantic atmosphere.
tree-shaded back patio and garden, as well
as smart furnishings, decent facilities and
comfy single-sex dorms. Upstairs are attrac- Flamingo Grand Bar CAFE $
(cnr Av Urquiza & José de San Martín; light meals
tive, airy private rooms that share a bath- AR$55-80, mains AR$70-155; h8am-midngiht; W)
room. Rooms with air-con cost US$2 more.
Smart seats and a plaza-side location make
this a favorite throughout the day, from
Entre Ríos Apart Hotel APARTMENT $ morning croissants and juices through to lo
(%0343-484-0906; www.aparthotel-entrerios.
com; Montevideo 55; s/d US$44/68; aWc) mitos (steak sandwiches) and lunch specials,
to decent à la carte dishes and picadas.
Spotless, spacious apartments here have
170
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Estero Buenos Aires
Garay José de San Martín ú# 12 Blvd Moreno
del San Lorenzo
3 MéjicoSantiago Tucumán Córdoba Corrientes San Juan 3
Laprida # Iglesia de Salta Parque 4
Ü# San Miguel Berduc
Casa de Nogoya 5
Gobierno San Luis
6
4 Cervantes Plaza Victoria Moreno
5 Alvear La Paz
25 de Junio 1 â# Museo Histórico 7
Urquiza de Entre Ríos
2 æ# #5
Av 11 Rosario del Tala
España
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7 Shopping 171
Paraná A recommended place to buy quality handi-
crafts is the Museo y Mercado Provincial de
æ Top Sights Artesanías (p168).
1 Museo Histórico de Entre Ríos ...........B4
2 Museo y Mercado Provincial de Centro de Artesanos HANDICRAFTS
Artesanías...........................................A5
(%0343-422-4493; www.facebook.com/centrode
æ Sights artesanosparana; cnr Av 9 de Julio & Carbó; h9am-
3 Costanera ..............................................C2 1pm & 4-8pm Mon-Sat Apr-Oct, 9am-1pm & 5-9pm
4 Playa El Parque ..................................... A1 Mon-Sat Nov-Mar) S Traditional artesanías
(handicrafts) are on display and for sale
Ø Activities, Courses & Tours here. There’s some very high-quality ware,
5 Costa Litoral ..........................................B4 and prices are fair.
ÿ Sleeping 88 Information I g ua zú Fa ll s & th e N o rth e as t DAC loroirnrnkigientnght e&sRNí iogPhatrlaifneá
6 Entre Ríos Apart Hotel .........................A6
7 Hotel Bristol...........................................D7 Hospital San Martín (% 0343-423-4545;
8 Howard Johnson Mayorazgo ..............B2 www.hospitalsanmartin.org.ar; Presidente
9 Las Mañanitas .......................................B6 Perón 450)
10 Maran Suites .........................................A2 Tourist Office (% 0343-423-0183; www.
11 Paraná Hostel........................................B5 turismoparana.gov.ar; Plaza 1 de Mayo s/n;
h 8am-8pm) Helpful, with good brochures.
ú Eating There’s another branch by the Río Paraná
12 Don Charras ..........................................C3 (% 0343-420-1837; Laurencena & San Martín;
13 Flamingo Grand Bar .............................B5 h 8am-8pm), and in the bus terminal (% 0343-
14 Giovani....................................................B5 420-1862; h 8am-8pm).
15 Lola Valentina........................................B2
88 Getting There & Around
þ Shopping
16 Centro de Artesanos ............................B6 The airport is 6km south, accessible only by
remise (AR$60). Aerolineas Argentinas serves
Don Charras PARRILLA $$ Buenos Aires.
(%0343-422-5972; cnr José de San Martín & San
Lorenzo; mains AR$80-130; h11:30am-3pm & The bus terminal (% 0343-422-1282) is eight
8:30pm-midnight Tue-Thu, 11:30am-3pm & 8:30pm- blocks southeast of the central square. Buses 1,
1am Fri-Sun, ; W) Thatched and atmospheric, 4, 5 and 9 run downtown. Buses leave every 30
this parrilla is a popular Paraná choice. Fri- minutes for Santa Fe (AR$16.25, 40 minutes);
days and Saturdays see special fire-roasted you may have to queue as commuter-card hold-
options, otherwise just enjoy the usual ers have priority.
chargrilled selection and solicitous service. Buses from Paraná
Deep-pan stews are designed to share be- DESTINATION COST (AR$) TIME (HR)
tween three or more. Starters, drinks and Buenos Aires 425 7-8
the salad bar are scandalously overpriced, Colón 132 4-5
but the meat comes out in most generous Concordia 144 4-5
portions. Córdoba 320-360 6
Paso de los 426-474 6-7
Lola Valentina ARGENTINE $$ Libres
(%0343-423-5234; Mitre 310; mains AR$80-150; Rosario 150-170 3-3½
hnoon-4pm & 8pm-midnight; W) Blending the
cheerful vibe of a favorite corner eatery with
formal service, this place offers great value
for a long menu of Argentine classics, deli-
cious homemade pastas, parrilla options
and plenty of river fish choice. It fills fast, so
get there early or book. Corrientes
6 Drinking & Nightlife % 0379 / POP 356,300
Paraná is quiet midweek, but gets busy at Stately Corrientes sits below the conflu-
weekends. Most of the action is at the eastern ence of the Paraná and Paraguay rivers, just
end of the riverfront around Liniers Lineal. across the water from its twin city, Resisten-
cia. One of the nation’s most venerable cities,
it has elegant balconied buildings dating
172 e# 0 400 m
0 0.2 miles
Corrientes B C D
A
1 Río Paraná 1
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(500m)
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4444El Mirador del
Paraná (700m); D 9 de Julio 15
D
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Municipal
I g ua zú Fa ll s & th e N o rth e as t GCA loeotrrntiigentgnhtTehsReíroe P&aArraonuánd Entre RíosJunín
San Luis
Sherwood (850m); Hipólito TucumánYrigoyen ú# TouPrlias000000000zt aK000000000Ü#Jio000000000Bs#ïk000000000Ca000000000bral Junín
Playa Arazaty
(1.5km) Buenos Aires 11 Catedral
Salta Metropolitana
3 ò# San Martín 3
La Rioja
San Juan 4
MendozaPlazaBolívarÿ#
Córdoba
CatamarcaLa CruzPlaza
San Lorenzo
Santa Fe
Av España
Jujuy
Belgrano Torrent
Resistencia Moreno Long-distance 4
(20km) Bus Terminal
4 Rivadavia
ÿ# 7 ˜# D(2.5km)
A
Av 3 de Abril D
BC
Corrientes 9 Orly Hotel..................................................C2
10 Turismo Hotel Casino ............................. A2
æ Top Sights ú Eating
1 Museo de Artesanías 11 Enófilos .....................................................C3
Tradicionales Folclóricas ..................... B1 12 Martha de Bianchetti ..............................C2
13 Típico ........................................................ C1
æ Sights ý Entertainment
2 Museo Histórico de Corrientes ............. C2 14 El Calderón ...............................................D2
þ Shopping
Ø Activities, Courses & Tours
3 Turistas Con Ruedas .............................. A2 Museo de Artesanías
Tradicionales Folclóricas ............. (see 1)
ÿ Sleeping
4 Astro Apart Hotel .................................... C3 15 Super Disco ..............................................D2
5 Bienvenida Golondrina............................ C1
6 Don Suites ................................................ C1
7 La Alondra................................................ B4
8 La Rozada ................................................. C1
from the turn of the 20th century that lend Corrientes is a magnet for regional indig-
a timeworn appeal to its colorful streets. enous crafts; Guaraní culture has a strong
The costanera is everybody’s destination of presence. The city is famous for its Carnaval.
choice for strolling, licking ice creams or sip- Graham Greene’s novel The Honorary Con
ping mate with friends. sul was set here.
1 Sights & Activities 173
US$41/57; aiW) Occupying a marvelous
Various operators run boat trips on the centenarian building, all high ceilings,
Paraná; the tourist office has a list. stained glass and artistic flourishes, this
hostel makes a great base a few steps from
oMuseo de Artesanías the costanera. Comfortable wide-berthed
dorm beds have headroom, facilities (includ-
Tradicionales Folclóricas MUSEUM ing free bikes) are great, and the warmly-
welcoming management couldn’t be more
(Quintana 905; h8am-noon & 3-7pm Mon-Fri, helpful. Prices drop midweek.
9am-noon & 4-7pm Sat) F This intriguing
museum in a converted colonial house has
small displays of fine traditional artesanía
(handicrafts) plus a good shop, but the high- Orly Hotel HOTEL $
(%0379-442-0280; www.hotelorlycorrientes.com.
light is watching students being taught to ar; San Juan 867; s/d US$50/60, superior r
work leather, silver, bone and wood by mas-
ter craftspeople. Other rooms around the US$130; aiWs) This professional, central
three-star is divided in two; older standard
courtyard are occupied by working artisans rooms are fine but smallish. They’re gradu-
who will sell to you directly. Museum guides
are enthusiastic, knowledgeable and friendly. ally being renovated, so ask for a newer one.
Superior ‘suites’ however, are much better,
with huge beds, modish couches and good I g ua zú Fa ll s & th e N o rth e as t SACilogorhrntigse tn&htAe csRtí iov iPtaire as n á
Museo Histórico de Corrientes MUSEUM bathrooms, though we’d change the carpet.
(9 de Julio 1044; h8am-noon & 4-8pm Tue-Fri) A sunlit breakfast room overlooks the pool
F This museum is set around an attrac- deck. A sauna, Jacuzzi and gym add value.
tive patio and exhibits weapons, antique
furniture, coins, and items dealing with La Rozada BOUTIQUE HOTEL $$
religious and civil history. It’s a little bit (%0379-443-3001; www.larozada.com; Plácido
higgledy-piggledy, but staff are proud of the Martínez 1223; s/d US$78/88; aW) An excellent
exhibition and keen to chat. The room on option near the riverfront, this hotel has com-
the War of the Triple Alliance is the most modious apartments and suites unu sually set
interesting. in a tower in the courtyard of an appealing
Playa Arazaty BEACH 19th-century, battleship-gray historic build-
ing. Fine views are on offer from most rooms.
(Costanera Sur; hlate Nov-Mar) F This wide A balcony room is slightly more expensive.
stretch of sand south of the Resistencia
bridge is the city’s best river beach. Don’t There’s an attractive bar area; guests can use
the pool at the nearby rowing club.
dip until it’s officially open – currents are
dangerous. A bit of terraforming is done
each season to make it safer for bathing, and Astro Apart Hotel HOTEL $$
(%0379-446-6112; www.astroapart.com; Bolívar
there are lifeguards. 1285; s/d US$60/75; aiW) Top value is to
Turistas Con Ruedas CYCLING be had at this modern place, featuring siza-
ble, handsome white rooms with great beds
(Costanera at 9 de Julio; h8am-noon & 3-7pm) and large windows. They come with simple
F Head down to the riverside tourist of-
fice with your passport, and grab a free bike kitchen and offer plenty of handy facilities
as reasonably-priced extras. Parking includ-
to explore the city for a couple of hours. ed; breakfast is brought to the room.
z Festivals & Events Don Suites HOTEL $$
oCarnaval Correntino CARNIVAL (%0379-442-3433; www.donsuites.com.ar; La
Corrientes’ traditionally riotous Carnaval Rioja 442; s/d US$77/83, superior s/d US$89/99;
competes with Gualeguaychú’s as the coun-
try’s showiest. Celebrated over four consec- aiWs) Paces from the costanera, the
Don offers pleasingly modern rooms with
utive weekends starting nine weeks before fridge and microwave. Rooms higher up are
Easter, parades along the costanera attract
participants from neighboring provinces better, with river views, more natural light
and a fresher feel – those on the ground
and countries, with huge crowds. floor can feel a bit musty. Pleasant pool area
4 Sleeping and helpful staff.
Bienvenida Golondrina HOSTEL $ oLa Alondra BOUTIQUE HOTEL $$$
(%0379-443-5537; www.laalondra.com.ar; Av 3 de
(%0379-443-5316; www.hostelbienvenidagolon Abril 827; r/apt/ste US$199/232/315; aiWs)
drina.com; La Rioja 455; dm US$21-23, s/d
174
Sumptuously furnished with dark-wood an- staples, but quality is good. Speciality surubí
tiques, this wonderfully renovated house is dishes go a step beyond: ‘al paquete’ is very
an oasis of relaxation from the unappealing succulent, cooked in foil with walnuts. Ser-
main road. Most rooms surrounding the vice is enthusiastic; the setting is memora-
small finger-shaped pool are suites boasting ble. Edison is a continuation of Bolívar.
plush king-sized beds and characterful bath-
rooms with claw-foot tubs. A second area is Enófilos ARGENTINE $$
characterfully created from a former indus- (Junín 1260; mains AR$110-205; h11:30am-
trial butchery. Strikingly handsome public 3:30pm & 8pm-12:30am Mon-Sat; W) An enófilo
spaces, excellent food and classy service is a wine lover, so the cellar gets plenty of at-
complete a most impressive package. tention at this attentive upstairs restaurant
on the peatonal. The wine ‘list’ is a small
temple at the room’s center; traditional cor
Turismo Hotel Casino HOTEL $$$ rentino ingredients like succulent surubí,
(%0379-446-2244; www.turismohotelcasino.com.
ar; Entre Ríos 650; r US$190-210, ste from US$231; are given creative flair, and fine cuts of meat
aiWsc) By the riverfront casino, what are showcased to advantage with sauces and
was a stately old hotel is now dominated fresh vegetables. The international menu is
by a slick modern tower. It’s excellent, with more hit-and-miss.
I g ua zú Fa ll s & th e N o rth e as t EACalotorirnnigge tnht e sR í o Paran á huge rooms that are elegantly and artistical-
ly furnished but cozy and quiet. River views Típico ARGENTINE $$
(%0379-454-8666; San Juan 455; mains AR$100-
cost a little extra; other drawcards include 180; h11:45am-3:30pm & 7:45pm-1:45am) Find-
an enclosed playground for kids, a big pool
with plenty of loungers, and spa facilities. ing this pleasant patio, once part of San
Francisco monastery, behind a chain cafe
These are rack rates: you can usually ex- is a surprise. Enthusiastically run by the
pect to pay 30% less.
chatty chef-owner, this specializes in typical
5 Eating correntino dishes, from clay-stewed meat to
tasty river fish creations. It’s a likable spot,
El Quincho PARRILLA $ and flavors are intriguing. Check the price
(cnr Av Juan Pujol & Calle Roca; parrillada for two
AR$200-260; h11:30am-3pm & 9pm-2am Mon- on starter portions offered.
Sat, 11:30am-3pm Sun) Rustic and welcoming, 6 Drinking & Nightlife
this Corrientes classic sits on a roundabout
a short walk from the center. It’s more about The costanera has plenty of action, with
Argentine grill staples such as chorizo and several bars and boliches (nightclubs) in the
morcilla (blood sausage) than fancy cuts of Costanera Sur zone south of the Resisten-
steak; there’s always a great-value parrilla cia bridge and bars strung out north of it.
deal on, plus regular regional specials and Near the intersection of Junín and Buenos
live chamamé music at weekends. Quality Aires, several bars and clubs pump along at
good; quantity enormous weekends.
Martha de Bianchetti CAFE, BAKERY $ Sherwood BAR
(cnr 9 de Julio & Mendoza; pastries from AR$15; (www.sherwoodrestobar.com; Quevedo 11; h7pm-
2am; W) This massive complex on the cos
h7am-1pm & 4-10pm Mon-Sat; W) This tanera does a bit of everything – food, DJs,
old-fashioned Italian-style bakery and cafe
serves mind-altering pastries and excellent etc – but is best for a mojito or negroni on
its spacious front deck or upstairs for better
coffee accompanied by chipacitos (little river views. It tries for the upmarket image
cheese scones). It’s all warm when the doors
open and the lovely smell wafts halfway with front-of-house staff in suits, but is actu-
ally very relaxed once you’re in. Quevedo is
down the block. Ice cream too. an extension of Belgrano.
oEl Mirador del Paraná ARGENTINE $$ 3 Entertainment
(%0379-442-9953; www.facebook.com/elmirador
delparana; Costanera at Edison; mains AR$80-
160; hnoon-3pm & 8:30pm-1am Wed-Mon; W) El Calderón TRADITIONAL MUSIC
Perched right above a river beach, the lovely (%0379-440-0755; Pellegrini 1509) With con-
certs most weekend nights, this central spot
bow-shaped deck here makes a great lunch- is an excellent place to encounter chamamé,
time destination. There’s a fairly unsophis- the roots music of Corrientes province. Check
ticated menu of parrilla and Argentine its Facebook page for upcoming events.
175
CHAMAMÉ
Tango? What’s that? Up here it’s all about chamamé, one of the country’s most intoxi-
cating musical forms. Rooted in the polka, introduced by European immigrants, it’s also
heavily influenced by Guaraní culture. Its definitive sound is the accordion, traditionally
accompanied by the guitar, guitarrón (an oversized guitar used for playing bass lines),
the larger bandoneón (accordion) and the contrabajo (double bass). Of course, a con-
junto (band) is hardly complete without a singer or two.
Chamamé is a lively dance for a couple, except when the man takes his solo zapateo
(tap dance). Corrientes province is the heart of chamamé and therefore the easiest
place to find a live performance. Check out Spanish-only website www.corrientes
chamame.com.ar for upcoming performances and online tunes to introduce you to the
genre. Corrientes holds a fortnight-long chamamé festival in early January.
Parrilla Puente Pexoa TRADITIONAL MUSIC 88 Getting There & Away
(%0379-445-1687; RN 12 at Virgen de Itatí round- Aerolíneas Argentinas (% 0379-442-3918; I g ua zú Fa ll s & th e N o rth e as t SAChlooorrnpigpeitnnhtge sR í o Paran á
about; hfrom 8:30pm Fri & Sat) This relaxed www.aerolineas.com.ar; Junín 1301; h 8am-
restaurant features chamamé dances every 12:30pm & 4:30-8pm Mon-Fri, 9am-noon Sat)
weekend and is outrageous fun when the flies to Buenos Aires daily. It also flies there
dancing starts. Men and women show up from nearby Resistencia.
in full gaucho regalia, and up to four con
juntos (bands) may play each night, starting The long-distance bus terminal (% 0379-
around 11pm. 447-7600; Av Maipú 2400) is 3km southeast
It’s around AR$60 in a taxi; make sure of the town center. Resistencia has better
you specify it’s the parrilla you’re going to, long-distance bus connections to the west and
as Puente Pexoa itself is a place further away. northwest. Buses to Resistencia (AR$7, 40
minutes) leave frequently from the local bus
7 Shopping terminal (cnr Av Costanera General San Martín
& La Rioja). Shared taxis that zip you into Resist-
Museo de Artesanías encia for AR$25 are faster. They leave from two
locations: Martínez 1016 by the river, and Av 3
Tradicionales Folclóricas HANDICRAFTS de Abril 953 (Av 3 de Abril 953).
(Quintana 905; h8am-noon & 3-7pm Mon-Fri, Buses from Corrientes
9am-noon & 4-7pm Sat) S This museum shop
sells a wide variety of traditional artisanal
handicrafts at fair prices. Your purchase DESTINATION COST (AR$) TIME (HR)
here helps to fund the continued teaching of Buenos Aires 864 12-14
traditional skills. Córdoba 833 11-14
Mercedes 146 3-4
Super Disco MUSIC Paso de los 220 5
Libres
(9 de Julio 1781; h8:30am-12:30pm & 5-9pm Mon- Posadas 270 4-4½
Sat) This CD shop specializes in Corrientes Puerto Iguazú 527 9-10
chamamé. You can listen before you buy. Rosario 641 9-11
Salta 827 13
88 Information Santa Fe 507 6½-8
There are various irregularly open information 88 Getting Around
offices around town, including at the airport and
bus terminal. Local bus 109 goes to the airport (RN 12), 12km
Municipal Tourist Office (% 0379-447-4733; east of town on the Posadas road. Bus 103 runs
www.ciudaddecorrientes.gov.ar; cnr Av Costan- between the local bus terminal and the long-
era & 9 de Julio; h7am-8pm) The main munici- distance bus terminal via downtown. Buses cost
pal tourist office, though opening can be patchy. AR$5.25, payable only in coins or a charge card,
Municipal Tourist Kiosk (Plaza JB Cabral; available from some kiosks.
h7am-8pm) This helpful little kiosk on the
plaza is theoretically open daily. A taxi to/from the long-distance bus terminal
Provincial Tourist Office (% 0379-442-7200; will cost AR$50 to AR$70.
http://turismo.corrientes.gob.ar; 25 de Mayo
1330; h7:30am-2pm & 3:30-8:30pm Mon-Fri)
Helpful for information about the province.
176
Hostel Gitanes HOSTEL $
(%03773-421558; [email protected]; Av
Mercedes San Martín 224; r per person with/without bath-
% 03773 / POP 40,700
The main access point for the spectacu- room US$17/13; aW) Out the back of a family
lar Esteros del Iberá wetlands, Mercedes home, this self-contained hostel has decent
is a rather handsome gaucho town with a basic rooms with air-conditioning, a small
mighty easy pace to life. Its claim to fame kitchen, and a yard. Rooms are private:
is the nearby – and completely surreal – a great deal for solo travelers. The owners
roadside shrine to gaucho Antonio Gil, an couldn’t be more helpful or welcoming.
enormously popular religious phenomenon.
Prices are low here, and there are appealing El Viejo Hostel HOSTEL $
places to stay. (%03773-15-405206; www.corrientes.com.ar/
elviejohostel; Rivas 688; dm US$15; W) Set along
4 Sleeping a courtyard with a grassy garden out back,
this venerable building offers simple, high-
oCasa de China B&B $ ceilinged dorms, a decent kitchen and a
(%03773-15-627269; lacasadechina@hotmail. pleasant front room. Best is the tranquil
com; Beltrán 599; r per person US$30; W) This vibe and genuinely cordial hospitality. You
I g ua zú Fa ll s & th e N o rth e as t MSA leeorencpgeidnteghse R í o Paran á 19th-century mansion offers magnificently can also camp here. No breakfast, but free
characterful rooms with miles-high ceilings, tea and coffee.
large beds and antique furniture. Gardens,
original artworks, gorgeous veranda spaces Hotel Horizontes HOTEL $
and a generous breakfast add enchantment. (%03773-420489; Gómez 734; s/d US$20/40;
aW) A block from the bus terminal, this
Best, though, is China herself, a warm- bare but very clean hotel offers good value,
hearted, cultured and interesting host with spotless rooms with compact bathrooms.
a fund of stories and a lovably informal style. Streetside rooms suffer from some traffic
If you’re not looking for hotel-style ameni- noise.
ties, you won’t want to leave.
GAUCHITO GIL
Spend time on the road anywhere in Argentina and you’re bound to see roadside shrines
surrounded by red flags and votive offerings. These pay homage to Antonio Gil, a Robin
Hood–like figure whose burial place 9km west of Mercedes attracts hundreds of thou-
sands of pilgrims yearly.
Little is certain about ‘El Gauchito,’ as he is affectionately called, but romantic tales
have sprung up to fill the gaps. What is known is that he was born in 1847 and joined the
army – some versions say to escape the wrath of a local policeman whose fiancée had
fallen in love with him – to fight in the War of the Triple Alliance.
Once the war ended, Gil was called up to join the Federalist Army, but went on the run
with a couple of other deserters. The trio roamed the countryside, stealing cattle from
rich landowners and sharing it with poor villagers, who in turn gave them shelter and
protection. The law finally caught up with them, and Gil was hung by the feet from the
espinillo tree that still stands near his grave, and beheaded.
So how did this freeloading, cattle-rustling deserter attain saintlike status? Moments
before his death, Gil informed his executioner that the executioner’s son was gravely ill.
He told the soldier that if he were buried – not the custom with deserters – the man’s
son would recover.
After lopping off Gil’s head, the executioner carried it back to the town of Goya
where – of course – a judicial pardon awaited Gil. On finding that his son was indeed se-
riously ill, the soldier returned to the site and buried the body. His son recovered quickly,
word spread and a legend was born.
‘Gauchito’ Gil’s last resting place is now the site of numerous chapels and storehouses
holding thousands of votive offerings – including T-shirts, bicycles, pistols, knives, license
plates, photographs, cigarettes, hair clippings and entire racks of wedding gowns –
brought by those who believe in the gaucho’s miracles. January 8, the date of Gil’s death,
attracts the most pilgrims.
177
Hotel Manantiales Mercedes HOTEL $$ 88 Getting There & Away
(%03773-421700; www.manantialeshoteles.com;
cnr Pujol & Sarmiento; s/d/tr US$55/97/143; The bus terminal (% 03773-420165; cnr San
aWs) Right on the plaza, this modern Martín & Perreyra) is six blocks west of the pla-
hotel is Mercedes’ most upmarket, with za. Destinations include Buenos Aires (AR$610
well-equipped rooms sporting contemporary to AR$650, eight to 10 hours), Paso de los Libres
color schemes, a restaurant, a casino, a spa (AR$71, two hours) and Corrientes (AR$146,
and a gym. Service is polite and helpful. Rates three to four hours).
are reasonable value and include parking.
Reserva Provincial
Ivyra Pyta HOTEL $$ Esteros del Iberá
(%03773-422105; www.ivyrapyta.com.ar; España
440; s/d US$44/77; aW) Spacious public This stunning wetland reserve is home to
areas and long corridors give way to slightly an abundance of bird and animal life, and
more compact rooms at this modern estab- is among South America’s finest places to
lishment. Boutique bedheads and modish see wildlife. Although tourism has increased
colours add a touch of class, and bathrooms substantially in recent years, Los Esteros
are well above average. Value and amiability del Iberá remains comparatively unspoiled.
are high. Cash discount. The main base for visiting the park is the I g ua zú Fa ll s & th e N o rth e as t AERael tosiennrggvtahPerRoívoinPcairaalnEás t e r o s d e l I b e r á
sleepy village of Colonia Pellegrini, 120km
5 Eating northeast of Mercedes; it offers a variety of
excellent accommodations. Rural estancias
Che Rhoga ARGENTINE $ in the larger area also make enticing bases.
(Av San Martín 2296; mains AR$50-120; h8:30pm-
midnight Tue, 11:30am-2:30pm & 8:30pm-midnight The lakes and esteros (lagoons) are shal-
Wed-Sun; W) It’s a bit of a hike out to this low, fed only by rainwater, and thick with
homey restaurant on the roundabout at vegetation, which accumulates to form
the entrance, but it’s worth it for toothsome embalsados (floating islands); this fertile
homemade pasta, steaks in tasty sauces and habitat is home to a stunning array of life.
low prices. Service tries hard to be formal. A Sinister black caimans bask in the sun while
great place. capybaras feed around them. Other mam-
mals include the beautiful orange-colored
Sal y Pimienta ARGENTINE $ marsh deer, howler monkeys (officially the
(Gómez 665; mains AR$45-98; h11:30am-3pm world’s noisiest animal), the rare maned
& 7:30-11:30pm; W) A local favorite, this un- wolf, coypu, otters and several species of bat.
complicated joint near the bus terminal has
a wide-ranging menu and unbeatable prices The birdlife is simply extraordinary; there
for tasty meats, river fish, pastas and pizzas. are some 350 species present in the reserve,
Lengua (tongue) makes a fine starter, and including colorful kingfishers, delicate
service is smart. hummingbirds, parrots, spoonbills, kites,
vultures, several species of egret and heron,
7 Shopping cormorants, ducks, cardinals and the plump
southern screamer, which would really light
Manos Correntinas HANDICRAFTS up Big Uncle Bob’s eyes at a Christmas roast.
(San Martín 499; h9am-noon & 5-8pm Mon-Fri, Ibera: Vida y Color, on sale at various
9am-noon Sat) S A friendly gallery and shop places around Colonia Pellegrini, is a useful
that displays the work of a cooperative of wildlife guide with beautiful photos of most
local craftspeople. There’s some excellent of the birds, plants and animals you may see.
basketw ork and leatherwork. English spoken.
The area around Pellegrini is only a small
88 Information part of the 13,000-sq-km expanse of the Es-
teros, which can be accessed from several
Most services are along San Martín, which links places, including 80km north, at Galarza.
bus terminal with plaza.
Tourist Information (% 03733-15-438769; T Tours
www.guiadigitalmercedes.com.ar; Estación de
Ómnibus; h 6am-midnight Mon-Fri, 7am-noon Lodges can organize these activities; they
and 3-7pm or 4-8pm Sat & Sun) The handiest are usually included in the accommodation
of the tourist information places, this is at the price. Otherwise, the best place to organize
bus terminal. The best for info on transport to boat trips and other excursions is the camp-
Colonia Pellegrini. site (from where most trips leave). Note
that few guides speak English; if you want
I g ua zú Fa ll s & th e N o rth e as t TARoel osuernrsgvtahPerRoívoinPcairaalnEás t e r o s d e l I b e r á178
ECOLOGICAL ISSUES IN THE IBERÁ
The Iberá ecosystem is delicate. The ecological foundation set up by US entrepreneurs-
turned-conservationists Douglas and Kristine Tompkins has bought large tracts of
private land and proposes to donate them to the Corrientes government, if it puts
them and the existing Iberá reserve under the control of the Argentine government as a
national park.
What seemed a straightforward act of ecological philanthropy became a hot potato,
pitting landowners, agribusiness and politicians against each other. But locals seem to
be slowly coming around to the idea as they see the potential benefits.
Check out www.theconservationlandtrust.org and www.proyectoibera.org for more
information. The late Douglas Tompkins had this to say:
Why was there so much opposition to begin with?
Conservation encounters opposition wherever it is. Not one national park was created in
the US without drawn-out battles with locals. Conservation is a political act and when it
has to do with what one does with land then you are treading in hot political territory. A
local cultural shift takes time and you also have to do your part well.
And now?
The opposition has virtually disappeared today. In fact, there is a conservation/tourism
fever seizing the province from the political leadership and all through the entire profile
of society. It is like suddenly everyone woke up.
What’s the deal with the Guaraní aquifer?
The Guaraní aquifer is a nonissue. It’s massive, somewhere around 1.2 million sq km.
Iberá is a mere 1.3 million hectares of that. One percent. A shallow surface wetland with
little to do with the deep aquifer. The Iberá’s importance as a water source is also over-
estimated. The Paraná passes more water than the whole Iberá under the Corrientes–
Resistencia bridge every 18 hours.
Dangers to the ecosystem
The industrial rice plantations and the big industrial tree plantations of even-aged
exotic monocultures. Then on top of that you have arrogant fools who flout laws and
build dike-like roads for dozens of kilometers disrupting the hydrology. Those are the
big three threats to the wetlands. Some bad grazing practices exist, but they are mild in
comparison.
What’s your message to Iberá’s people?
The formation of a national park would bring benefits to the entire area and province,
help biodiversity conservation and be a point of pride for locals. And of course a big eco-
nomic development component with the advent of lots of tourism. It would be the largest
national park in Argentina, the province would benefit by the tourism and the nation
would pay the costs for operating the park, a kind of double win for the province and its
citizens.
Life goes on as usual for everyone, it is only the 560,000 hectares of provincial land,
coupled with 175,000 hectares of foundation land that would constitute a national park.
Beyond that all landowners just continue on. Zero change for them. The only thing that
will change is the value of their land will go up.
The reintroduction of giant anteaters?
This project is already an unqualified success. We have two established populations with
lots of animals in the wild, reproducing nicely and healthily. One of the most successful
things we have ever done in conservation. We are very happy about it. The pampa deer
has been really successful too, with an established population growing at 25% annually.
We have also started reintroducing peccaries and macaws, the latter extinct for more
than a century. Our biggest and most exciting challenge is jaguars; we’ve started breed-
ing them too.
Thanks also to Carolina Morgado and Ignacio Jiménez Pérez.
179
an English-speaking guide, it’s best to go pool, kitchen and parrilla is constantly im-
through one of the lodges. proving, and offers appealing twins, doubles
and family rooms with good beds and show-
oBoat Trips BOAT TOUR ers. Rooms can be shared if others want to,
and prices are a little negotiable. Runs good
(per person AR$150-180) The best way to ap- boat trips. Beethoven, the parrot, covers
preciate the area. The classic trip is a two- front-of-house.
to three-hour excursion in a lancha (boat)
around the Laguna Iberá and its embalsa
dos. You’ll see myriad bird and animal life,
El Paso Cabañas CABAÑAS $
(%03773-15-400274; www.elpasoibera.com.ar;
elegant lilies, water hyacinths and other cnr Timbó & Yaguareté; d US$60, 4-person cab-
aquatic plants. The guide will punt you re-
markably close to the creatures. You can ins US$100; aWc) Dotted across a sizable
also take night trips; take plenty of insect grassy garden, this is especially good for
repellent. families. Cabins are comfortable and sleep
up to six, while simpler rooms share a stove
Walks & Horseback Rides WALKING TOUR and fridge. It’s run by helpful people who
Day walks (AR$60) are simple affairs: if run excursions, and there’s an on-site res-
you don’t speak Spanish, you might as well
do it yourself. Much better are night walks taurant. English and German spoken. I g ua zú Fa ll s & th e N o rth e as t RAS leeosenprgivntaghPerRoívoinPcairaalnEás t e r o s d e l I b e r á
(AR$120 for two hours), but cover up with Hospedaje Iberá GUESTHOUSE $
repellent. Longer guided walks are also (%03773-15-627261; www.hospedajeibera.com.
available, as are horseback rides (AR$200), ar; cnr Guazú Virá & Ysypó; r per person US$15)
although these are more for the ride’s sake Set behind a shop, this has a range of clean
than for wildlife-spotting. and spacious rooms with fan and hot-water
bathroom.
4 Sleeping
Camping Iberá CAMPGROUND $
(%03773-15-629656; www.ibera.gov.ar; Mbiguá
4 Colonia Pellegrini s/n; per person 1st/subsequent days AR$70/50,
per vehicle 1st day only AR$40) This municipal
Colonia Pellegrini’s numerous accommoda- campground by the lake is a great place with
tions are divided between hospedajes, usu- grassy pitches, nearly all with their own cov-
ally simple rooms behind a family home, ered barbecue/eating area. Boat trips leave
and posadas or hosterías, comfortable from here, and it’s worth checking out the
lodges that offer full-board rates and ex- view as the sun sets. Book ahead as it’s not
cursions. Multiday packages are offered by huge. Also rents canoes.
most lodges, who can also book transfers
from Mercedes or Posadas.
Posada Rancho Jabirú GUESTHOUSE $ Rancho Inambú GUESTHOUSE $$
(%03773-15-401362; www.ranchoinambu.com.ar;
(%03773-15-443569; www.posadaranchojabiru. Yerutí s/n; r per person US$45; s) On the north-
com.ar; Yaguareté s/n; s/d/tr US$30/44/66;
aW) The best of the budget options. Set ern side of town near the soccer pitch, this
is one of few midrange choices. Rooms are
in a carefully-tended flowery garden, it has simple, rustic and comfortable and are set in
spotless rooms sleeping up to five in a pretty
bungalow. It’s run by the friendly folk of Ya- a pleasant jungly garden. The cordial owner
is a keen bird-watcher so his excursions are
carú Porá restaurant next door. particularly good for that.
Hospedaje Los Amigos GUESTHOUSE $ oRancho de los Esteros LODGE $$$
(%03773-15-493753; hospedajelosamigos@gmail.
com; cnr Guazú Virá & Aguapé; r per person US$15; (%03773-15-493041; www.ranchodelosesteros.
com.ar; cnr Ñangapiry & Capivára; s US$318, d
a) An excellent budget choice, with a kindly standard/superior US$407/424, incl full-board &
owner, this place offers spotless rooms with
big beds and decent bathrooms for a pit- activities; aWsc) This exquisitely peace-
ful lakeside retreat is run with traditional
tance. You can also eat simply but well here: Argentine country hospitality by its own-
full-board rates (add US$8) are available.
ers. Four gorgeous, super-spacious rooms
(they can fit a family) surround a beautifully
Hospedaje San Cayetano GUESTHOUSE $ maintained wetland garden full of birdsong.
(%03773-15-400929; www.argentinaparamirar.
com.ar; cnr Guazú Virá & Aguapé; s/d US$30/60; Traditional architecture, attentive hosts,
aWs) This friendly choice with plunge tasty meals and lakeside shelter to watch the
180
spectacular sunsets make this a very special 2 75; aWs) On the lake near the causeway,
place. Minimum two-night stay. this rustic lodge makes you feel very wel-
come. While standard rooms are satisfactory,
Ecoposada del Estero LODGE $$$ artistic wooden furniture, a pool and views
(%03773-15-443602; www.ecoposadadelestero. across the water are the highlights. Superiors
com.ar; Yaguareté s/n; s/d incl full-board & activi- are a lot better, more attractive and sizable
ties US$210/350; Ws) S Best in town for with greater privacy and verandas. Excur-
bird-watching, this place is warmly run by sions are extra. Argentines pay 25% less.
a couple who know the area intimately. Eco-
logical design has resulted in comfortable
adobe buildings with wide verandas, ham- Rancho Iberá LODGE $$$
(%03773-15-412661; www.posadaranchoibera.
mocks and attractive homemade recycled com.ar; cnr Caraguatá & Aguará; d for 2 nights incl
wooden furnishings. Excursions are great full-board & activities US$537; aW) Attractive-
but you’ll see plenty from here: the lodge sits ly decorated rooms with narrow beds sur-
right on the edge of an estero, has abundant round a tranquil veranda and garden at this
birdlife and a high observation platform. friendly, central place. There are kayaks for
guests to use and a self-contained cabaña.
Ñandé Retá LODGE $$$
(%03773-499411; www.nandereta.com; Guazú
I g ua zú Fa ll s & th e N o rth e as t RAS leeosenprgivntaghPerRoívoinPcairaalnEás t e r o s d e l I b e r á Virá s/n; s/d for 2 nights incl full-board & activi- 4 Around the Region
ties US$520/803; aiWsc) This place
has been around longer than most, and is oEstancia Rincón del Socorro LODGE $$$
still one of the most pleasing. Surrounded
by pines and eucalypts, it has a peaceful, (%03782-15-475114; www.rincondelsocorro.com;
hidden-away feel that is highly seductive. RP40, Km83; s/d incl full-board & activities
It’s very family friendly, the rooms are color- US$480/640; Wsc) This ranch, 31km south
ful and rustic in feel, service is excellent of Pellegrini, is a place in which to come to
and the pool decent-sized. There are usual- terms with the big sky and abundant wild-
ly good-value bed-and-breakfast-only rates life. It’s substantial country comfort rather
available too. than luxury; the pretty rooms interconnect,
making them great for family stays, while
freestanding cabins sleep two. Beyond, vast
lawns blend into pastureland and contem-
Aguapé Lodge reservations LODGE $$$ plation.
(% 03773-499412,
011-4742-3015;
www.iberaesteros.com.ar; Yacaré s/n; s/d incl There’s one cheaper room (single/double
full-board & activities US$340/540, incl full-board US$390/520). Excursions from here are
US$160/230; Ws) This luxurious, long- great, with chances of seeing the reintro-
established colonial-style posada is in a duced giant anteater. If Socorro isn’t remote
beautiful setting above the lake. It has enough, San Alonso, its sister estancia, is
attractive, high-ceilinged rooms, all-white only reachable by plane.
walls and dark wood, along a veranda look-
ing over the lawn to the water, and a wide Hotel Puerto Valle LODGE $$$
variety of excursions. Cheaper ‘rustic’ rooms (%03786-425700; www.puertovalle.com.ar; RN12,
in another building are smaller, but also Km1282; s/d incl full-board, transfers & activities
have plenty of character. Service is excellent. from US$590/850; aiWs) This luxuri-
ous secluded option is on the bank of the
LODGE $$$ Paraná – huge here, above the Yacyreta
Posada de La Laguna
(%03773-499413; www.posadadelalaguna.com; dam – near the Esteros’ northeastern tip.
Guazú Virá s/n; d incl full board & activities US$400; Rooms, some in the historic original build-
aWs) Simple and elegant, in wide lakeside ing, others in annexes, are impeccable, with
grounds, this lodge has bright white rooms great river views. Meals and service are ex-
with great beds and paintings by the owner. cellent. Excursions to the Iberá, their cay-
The emphasis is on relaxation (no TV), and man farm, monkey path and along the river
staff pull it off, with friendly service, guided are included. B&B rates available.
trips and good meals. Rooms in the building
closer to the lake are slightly more charming, Iberá Lodge LODGE $$$
those in the other building are more private. (%0379-423-0228; www.iberalodge.com; RP29; s/d
incl full-board, transfers & activities US$450/620;
LODGE $$$ Wsc) This handsome complex has a to-
Irupé Lodge
(%0376-443-8312; www.ibera-argentina.com; Yac aré tally rural location by the lake shore, 55km
s/n; standard s/d US$165/220, superior US$220/ north of Mercedes via RP29. Rooms are
181
furnished in elegant country style; riding 88 Getting There & Away
and boat trips are included. Grassy grounds
and a plethora of facilities, including games Transport options change regularly: check at
room, spa and excellent food, make this a Mercedes bus terminal tourist information.
fine retreat. Cheaper for Argentines.
The road from Mercedes to Colonia Pellegrini
(120km) is driveable in a normal car except
after rain.
5 Eating At the time of research, there were no buses.
Lodges provide meals for their guests; many The cheapest way to get here were two sched-
allow nonguests if you ask in advance. There uled minibus/4WD services. Chartered transfers
are other simple options in town. Eating (from these or other operators) cost AR$1400
hours are early for Argentina. from Mercedes for up to four people. If it hasn’t
been raining, you could also get a remise.
Yacarú Porá ARGENTINE $ The road from Posadas is worse (take the
(cnr Caraguatá & Yaguareté; mains AR$55-100; turning between Gobernador Virasoro and Santo
hnoon-2:30pm & 7:30-10:30pm; W) Run with Tomé in a normal car). Drivers charge AR$3000
charm and enthusiasm, this bungalow guar- for a charter to Posadas, or AR$2500 to Gober- I g ua zú Fa ll s & th e N o rth e as t REAael tosiennrggvtahPerRoívoinUcriuagluEasyt e r o s d e l I b e r á
antees a warm welcome. Food is prepared nador Virasoro, from where frequent buses
to order and features generous portions of travel the 80km on to Posadas.
meat, chicken dishes, pasta, salads, omelets
and milanesas (breaded cutlets). There’s no gas station in Pellegrini; the closest
are in Mercedes and the main road junction near
Santo Tomé. Fill up before you head in. A couple
of places in Pellegrini can sell you gas and diesel
Los Carros ARGENTINE $ if necessary.
(cnr Mburucuyá & Yaguareté; mains AR$40-70;
h11:30am-2pm & 7-9pm) Likable and family- Be aware that car-rental companies may re-
run, this simple place, with the picturesque fuse you service if you mention that the Iberá is
horse carts it’s named for in the yard, does one of your destinations.
tasty home-cooked food adorned with herbs Daniel Ortiz (% 03773-15-431469; AR$250-
from the garden and fresh vegetables. 300) Runs daily from Mercedes at 7:30am to
There’s no menu and a limited selection: if 8:30am, stopping outside the bus terminal
you fancy local specialties, order in advance. but also doing hotel pick-ups. Returns from
Pellegrini at around 4pm to 5pm. Price a little
variable.
Restaurante El Paso ARGENTINE $$ Iberá Bus (Mario Azcona; % 03773-15-462836;
(www.elpasoibera.com.ar; cnr Timbó & Yaguareté; AR$200) Leaves from the market on Pujol
mains AR$80-200; h11am-3pm & 7-10pm) With between Gómez and Alvear in Mercedes at
a range of fish, beef and chicken dishes, as midday to 12:30pm Monday to Friday and
well as some regional specialties, this makes 9:30am Saturdays. Returns from Pellegrini 4am
a decent meal stop. Its speciality is farmed Monday to Saturday.
caiman, which comes stir-fried, as a milane Martín Sandoval (% 03773-15-466072)
sa (breaded fillet) or in empanadas. Reliable for private transfers to Posadas and
88 Information Mercedes.
Maxi Ojeda (% 03773-15-450486) Based in
There is no bank or ATM, so take cash. Wi-fi is Pellegrini; runs transfers to Mercedes and
widespread but unreliable. Kiosco El Paso (cnr Posadas.
Ruta 40 & Yacaré; h 8am-8pm; W) on the main
road at the town entrance will let you use their
wi-fi if you buy something.
ALONG THE RÍO
Municipal Tourist Office (www.ibera.gov.ar; URUGUAY
RP40; h 8am-noon & 2-7pm) At the Mercedes
entrance to the village, just after crossing the The lesser of the two great rivers that con-
causeway. verge to form the Río de la Plata, the Uru-
guay divides the country of the same name
Visitor Center (RP40; h 8am-6pm) The
reserve’s visitor center, on the Mercedes side
of the causeway, has a good exhibition on local from Argentina, and also forms part of the
wildlife (Spanish) and an audiovisual pres- border with Brazil. Bridges provide access
entation. The short path opposite gives you a to these neighbors, whose influences have
sporting chance of seeing howler monkeys; and blended with those of indigenous and im-
other paths and boardwalks introduce you to migrant groups in the area. The Argentine
the area’s different plants and habitats. riverside towns have lots to offer and are
popular summer and weekend destinations.
182
Concepción del Uruguay the palace. There’s a mediocre restaurant
and picturesque grounds for picnicking.
% 03442 / POP 89,300
4 Sleeping
Set around a stately plaza, Concepción is a
typical riverside town, wondering what to oAntigua Fonda HOTEL $
do with itself now that trade on the Río Uru- (%03442-433734; www.antiguafonda.com.ar;
guay has died off. It makes a decent stopover, España 172; s/d US$39/49; aW) Though you
has good sleeping and eating choices, and wouldn’t know, this has been created from
boasts the Palacio San José outside town. part of what was once a historic Concepción
hotel. Pleasing, spacious rooms in shades
1 Sights of cream surround a small grassy garden,
with artistic touches and a relaxing vibe. It’s
The principal sights in the town itself are a block west and three south of the plaza.
around the noble main plaza, where the Great value.
earthy-pink-colored basilica holds the re-
mains of Justo José de Urquiza. Residencial Centro GUESTHOUSE $
Palacio San José PALACE (%03442-427429; www.nuevorescentro.com.ar;
More no 130; r US$32; aW) The best budget
I g ua zú Fa ll s & th e N o rth e as t ASCilogonhnctgesptchieónR ídoeUlrUurguugauyay (www.palaciosanjose.com; RP39, Km30; adult/child hotel in town has a variety of rooms around
AR$25/5; h8am-7pm Mon-Fri, 9am-6pm Sat &
Sun) Topped by twin towers and surrounded a courtyard near the plaza. They vary slight-
by elegant gardens, Justo José de Urquiza’s ly in price depending on size and if they
ostentatious pink palace is 33km west of have air-con; there’s more light in the ones
Concepción. Set around an arched patio, upstairs.
with a walled garden out back, it was built
partly to show up Urquiza’s arch rival in Bue- Antigua Posta del Torreón BOUTIQUE HOTEL $$
nos Aires, Juan Manuel de Rosas, and partly (%03442-432618; www.postadeltorreon.com.ar;
to show the power and wealth of Entre Ríos Almafuerte 799; s/d/superior d US$59/76/89;
province. Local caudillo (provincial strong- aWs) This intimate hotel a block west and
man) Urquiza was largely responsible for Ro- four south of the plaza offers a real haven for
sas’ 1852 downfall and the eventual adoption a relaxing stay. It’s an elegantly refurbished
of Argentina’s modern constitution. 19th-century mansion with original features
Sometime allies such as Domingo and rooms surrounding a postcard-pretty
Sarmiento and Bartolomé Mitre supped at courtyard complete with fountain and small
Urquiza’s 8.5m dining-room table and slept pool. Superiors are worth the upgrade:
in the palatial bedrooms. The bedroom in much more spacious, with lovely furniture.
which Urquiza was murdered by a mob sent 5 Eating
by Ricardo López Jordán is a permanent
shrine, created by Urquiza’s wife.
From Concepción, Sarbimas (%03442- Sumeria MICROBREWERY $$
(www.sumeriabar.com.ar; Eva Perón 207; mains
427777) or other remise companies will take AR$100-210; h7pm-2am Thu-Sun, opens ex-
up to four people there and back, including tra days in summer; W) In an historic corner
a two-hour wait, for AR$320. Another op- house, this is a new concept for Concepción.
tion is a tour – Turismo Pioneros (%03442- Tasty microbrewed beers (including a honey
433914; www.facebook.com/pionerosturismo; Mitre one) accompany a varied menu that takes
908) will take two people for AR$180, in-
cluding a guided visit. You could also jump in salmon chivitos (Uruguayan steak sand-
wich), innovative salads and deli plates that
off a Caseros-bound bus and walk 3km to include a vegetarian one. On Thursdays it
does sushi. There’s a pleasant patio: in all, a
great place to hang out.
ENTERING URUGUAY Head north three blocks from the north-
east corner of the plaza.
Three main crossings link Argentina
with its eastern neighbor Uruguay. From El Conventillo de Baco ARGENTINE $$
south to north these are Gualeguaychú– (% 03442-433809; http://erbiodiaz.wix.com/
Fray Bentos, Colón–Paysandú (cars pay el-nuevo-conventillo; España 193; mains AR$105-
an AR$100 toll on these two bridges) 150; h11am-3pm & 8pm-midnight Wed-Mon,
and Concordia–Salto. All three are open 11am-3pm Tue) This handsome and totally
24 hours. recommendable spot has both indoor and
183
GUALEGUAYCHÚ CARNAVAL
A mellow riverside town, Gualeguaychú is quiet out of season but kicks off in summer
with the country’s longest and flashiest Carnaval celebration (www.carnavaldelpais.com.
ar). Any weekend from mid-January to late February you’ll find things in full swing. The
main venue is the Corsódromo, where admission is AR$150 to AR$220 most nights.
There’s a string of decent budget hotels along Bolívar between Bartolomé Mitre and
Monseñor Chalup, and several hostels in town.
Gualeguaychú is easily reached by bus from Buenos Aires (3½ hours), Paraná and
other Río Uruguay towns. Gualeguaychú is also a crossing point to Uruguay: Fray Bentos
lies just across the bridge.
outdoor dining in an attractive patio space Plaza San Martín, a block back from the riv-
and specializes in well-prepared river fish er, and the street 12 de Abril running up to it.
and seafood. Good value.
1 Sights & Activities I g ua zú Fa ll s & th e N o rth e as t ICAnlofolonórgnmtahtei oRní o U ruguay
88 Information
Strolling around the riverbank, the beach
Tourist Office (% 03442-425820; www.concep and quiet leafy streets is the highlight here.
cionentrerios.tur.ar; cnr Galarza & Supremo Numerous artesanía shops sell everything
Entrerriano; h7am-1pm & 2-8pm) The handiest from mate gourds to pickled coypu.
tourist office is a block east of the plaza.
T Tours
88 Getting There & Around
Ita i Cora Aventura BOAT TOUR
The bus terminal (% 03442-422352; cnr Galarza
& Chiloteguy) is 10 blocks west of the plaza. Bus 1 (%03447-423360; [email protected]; San Martín
runs between them; a remise costs AR$20. 97; 2hr tour AR$280) The best option for get-
ting out on the river. Its standard tour is a
A train arrives in Concepción from Paraná on charismatic two-hour affair taking in sand
Fridays and returns on Sundays (AR$24, seven flats and a forest trail in the middle of the
hours). Río Uruguay. Excellent English spoken.
Buses from Concepción Naturaleza Yatay BUS TOUR
(%03447-15-465528; www.naturalezayatay.com.
ar; El Palmar tour AR$280) Runs good guided
DESTINATION COST (AR$) TIME (HR) trips to the El Palmar national park. Can
Buenos Aires 260 4 organize tailored bird-watching excursions.
Colón 24 ¾ English spoken.
Concordia 73 2¾
Gualeguaychú 40 1 z Festivals & Events
Paraná 133 5
Fiesta Nacional de la Artesanía HANDICRAFTS
Colón (www.fiestadelaartesania.com.ar) This crafts
fair in February in Parque Quirós features
% 03447 / POP 24,800 high-standard live folkloric entertainment.
The most appealing destination for riverside 4 Sleeping
relaxation in Entre Ríos, Colón’s population
almost doubles with Argentine holidaymak- There are numerous summer campgrounds,
ers in January, but the pretty town takes it cabins, bungalows and apartments availa-
all in its stride. With numerous places to ble for rent. Look for signs saying ‘Alquilo
stay, a thriving handicrafts scene and worth- a turistas.’ The tourist office can supply you
while, out-of-the-ordinary restaurants, it’s a with a list of official accommodations: there
great place to be. It’s also a base for visiting are several hundred.
Parque Nacional El Palmar.
Hostería El Viejo Almacén GUESTHOUSE $
Colón is connected to Paysandú in Uru- (%03447-422216; Av Urquiza 108; s/d US$30/58;
guay by bridge. The center of the action is aW) In the restaurant of the same name,
this is ultra-friendly and has simple, neat
yellow-painted rooms with both fan and
184
I g ua zú Fa ll s & th e N o rth e as t ECAalotolinóngng t&hDe rRiínokUinrguguay YAPEYÚ
This delightfully peaceful place is no one-horse town: there are many horses, and the
sound of their hooves thumping the reddish earth in the evening is one of the nicest
things about it. Yapeyú is a great spot to relax: the sort of place where locals will greet
you on the street.
An hour north of Paso de los Libres by bus, Yapeyú was founded in 1626 as the south-
ernmost of the Jesuit missions. It’s also famous for being the birthplace of the great
Argentine ‘Liberator,’ José de San Martín.
You can examine the Jesuit ruins – the museum (Sargento Cabral s/n; h8am-noon &
3-6pm Tue-Sun) F here has a comprehensive overview of all the missions – and ad-
mire the ornate Casa de San Martín (h8am-noon & 2-6pm) F, a pavilion that now
shelters the ruins of the house where San Martín was born in 1778.
On the plaza between these, Hotel San Martín (%03772-493120; Sargento Cabral 712;
s/d US$25/40; aW) is a simple, welcoming place set around an echoey inner courtyard.
Up a notch, El Paraíso Yapeyú (%03772-493056; www.paraisoyapeyu.com.ar; cnr Paso de
los Patos & San Martín; bungalows for 2/4 people US$60/95; aWsc) is a faded complex
of bungalows with a nice riverside position. More upmarket options are on the highway
west of town. Comedor del Paraíso (Matorras s/n; mains AR$40-60; h7am-3pm &
8-10:30pm) is a likably simple central spot to eat with no menu, just a limited choice of
what’s available that day.
Four daily buses (AR$36, one hour) run to/from Paso de los Libres and to Posadas
(AR$181, 4½ hours) in the other direction. More buses stop on the highway at the edge
of the town.
air-con plus plenty of space. Go for one near Hotel Plaza HOTEL $$
the front if in-room wi-fi is important. An (%03447-421043; www.hotel-plaza.com.ar; cnr
excellent deal: the only problem is a rum- 12 de Abril & Belgrano; standard/superior d
bling stomach from the aromas of grilling US$118/148; aiWsc) This Colón staple
meat. You can book online. has been around for a century, but now looks
modern and glistening. The rooms, all exte-
La Casona de Susana HOSTEL, GUESTHOUSE $ rior, aren’t quite as posh; the superiors (Neo)
(%03447-425349; www.lacasonadesusana.com.ar; have more space and quality bathrooms. But
cnr 3 de Febrero & Paysandú; dm US$20, d US$40- the combination of plaza-side location (some
70; aWs) This is a quirky but welcoming rooms have balconies) and decent-sized
spot between the bus terminal and river. heated pool out the back make it a winner.
Shared or private accommodation is availa- Four-night minimum stay in high summer.
ble in three different room grades – simple
but serviceable en-suite dorms to plush, Hotel Costarenas HOTEL $$$
colorful modern rooms. All have fridges, (%03447-425050; www.hotelcostarenas.com.ar;
there’s a pretty pool out back and kitchen cnrAv Quirós & 12 deAbril; s/d US$103/150,with view
use. Air-con extra in summer. US$124/177, superior d US$187-229; aiWsc)
A favorite of weekending porteños, this offers
oHostería ‘Restaurant del smart, very well-kept riverside accommo-
Puerto’ HOTEL $$ dation. The handsome downstairs spa/pool
(%03447-422698; www.hosteriadecolon.com.ar;
Alejo Peyret 158; r US$85-90; aiWsc) In complex is included; there’s also an outdoor
pool and a good restaurant. Rooms are bland
what has a strong claim to be Colón’s love- cream but well-equipped; those with views
liest house, this has characterful rooms
decorated faithfully in the style of the 1880 are lighter and larger, while superior rooms
add a few more square meters. Family rooms
building, with enormous windows, plenty of have kitchenette. Service is personable.
wood and noble rustic furniture. Family du-
plexes (US$110) are a good deal, as are mid- 5 Eating & Drinking
week discounts. The restaurant serves good
dinners, and there’s an outdoor heated pool El Sótano de los Quesos DELI $
(www.elsotanodelosquesos.com.ar; cnr Chaca-
and Jacuzzi out back. No cards. buco & Av Costanera; mixed plates for 1/2 people
185
AR$90/150; h5-11:30pm Wed-Mon; v) This 88 Information
intriguing spot serves artisanal cheeses and
other delicacies at pretty thatched tables on Tourist Office (% 03447-423000; www.
a lawn overlooking the port. There’s also lo- colonturismo.tur.ar; cnr Gouchón & Av Costan-
cally made wine and beer, and a cellar shop era; h 8am-9pm) Occupies the former customs
whose aromas will almost compel you to buy. building, built by Urquiza. There is also an
Opening hours extend in summer. Flooding office in the bus terminal (8am to 7pm).
sometimes drives it across the street.
88 Getting There & Around
El Viejo Almacén ARGENTINE $
(%03447-422216; cnr Urquiza & Paso; mains Colón’s bus terminal (% 03447-421716; cnr
AR$55-140; h11:30am-3pm & 8pm-midnight; W) Rocam ora & 9 de Julio) is eight blocks north of
S A block from the plaza and offering a the main shopping and entertainment street, 12
quiet, brick-walled interior decorated with de Abril. A remise downtown costs around AR$35.
old-time photos, this has a wide-ranging
menu including great homemade pasta, de- Destinations include Buenos Aires (AR$305,
licious empanadas, river fish and parrilla 4½ to six hours), Gualeguaychú (AR$53, two
options. Portions aren’t as big as in some hours) via Concepción (AR$24, 40 minutes),
places – probably a good thing – but prices Concordia (AR$61, two hours) via Ubajay I g ua zú Fa ll s & th e N o rth e as t PSAahl oroqnpugpietnNhgaecRiíoonUarluEgluPaayl mar
are low and vegetables come from their or- (AR$32, one hour) and Paysandú, Uruguay
ganic garden. (AR$61 to AR$75, 45 minutes, three to five Mon-
day to Saturday, one Sunday).
La Cantina ARGENTINE $
(Peyret 79; mains AR$50-110; h11am-2:30pm & Parque Nacional El
8:30pm-midnight Tue-Sun) Just off the plaza, Palmar
this likable family-run restaurant does a
nice line in uncomplicated and filling fare, On the Uruguay’s bank, midway between
with sizable chicken and beef dishes along- Colón and Concordia, 8500-sq-km Parque
side tasty homemade pasta and river-fish Nacional El Palmar (%03447-493049; www.
options, including surubí empanadas. parquesnacionales.gob.ar; RN 14, Km199; Ar-
gentines/Mercosur/foreigners AR$70/100/120)
oLa Cosquilla del Ángel ARGENTINE $$ preserves the last extensive stands of yatay
(%03447-423711; cnr San Martín & Balcarce; palm on the Argentine littoral. In the 19th
mains AR$110-160; hnoon-4pm Mon, noon-4pm & century, the native yatay covered large parts
8pm-midnight Wed-Sun; W) Colón’s best restau- of Entre Ríos, Uruguay and southern Brazil,
rant combines elegant, romantic decor and but intensive agriculture, ranching and for-
service with a whimsical and unpretentious estry destroyed much of the palm savanna.
approach, particularly in the curiously named
dishes and the intriguing restaurant name: Reaching a maximum height of about
The Angel’s Tickle. Many dishes combine 18m, the larger specimens clustered through-
sweet and savory flavors; try the mollejitas out the park create a striking and soothing
(sweetbreads). The pasta is recommended subtropical landscape that lends itself to
and the wine list is above average. photography. Grasslands and gallery forests
along the watercourses shelter much wildlife.
Restaurant del Puerto ARGENTINE $$
(www.hosteriadecolon.com.ar; Peyret 158; mains Park admission (valid for 48 hours) is col-
AR$100-170; h8pm-midnight Thu-Tue; W) In a lected at the entrance from 7am to 7pm, but
lovely old building near the river, this res- the gate is open 24 hours.
taurant does tasty evening meals with good
service and plenty of imaginative river-fish 1 Sights & Activities
dishes. It’s good for a lighter dinner, with
plenty of salad vegetables and fruit used. No Facilities are 12km from the highway en-
cards. trance down a good dirt road. Here, the
visitor center (h8am-6pm) has displays on
7 Shopping natural history; you can organize canoeing,
cycling and horseback-riding trips. Roads
La Casona HANDICRAFTS lead off the main access road to three view-
points. Arroyo Los Loros, a short distance
(12 de Abril 106; h9:30am-12:30pm & 6-9pm) S north of the campground, is a good place to
On the corner of the plaza, this cooperative observe wildlife. South of the visitor center
sells a wide range of handmade goods. is Arroyo El Palmar, a pleasant stream ac-
cessed at two viewpoints, La Glorieta and
El Palmar. These have short marked trails;
186 here or else get off 6km north at Ubajay (check
the latter has a bird-watching hide. There out the Model T Ford in the bus terminal), from
are three other short trails near the visitor where a remise will cost you around AR$180 to
center, and another hide by the river. Guided the visitors center. Call % 03447-15-520-1941.
walks are available by prior arrangement.
There is river access for swimming and The easiest way to get here is by tour from
boating from the campground. Colón. You can also charter a remise from Colón:
a return trip plus two hours at the park, covering
4 Sleeping & Eating all the trails, costs AR$540 (up to four people).
Remis Colón (% 03447-422221; Alem 13) is
Ubajay has basic rooms at the bus terminal, recommended.
plus other cheap lodgings.
Camping El Palmar CAMPGROUND $ Concordia
(%03447-423378; campsites per adult/child/tent
US$8/4/5) This sociable campground by the % 0345 / POP 149,500
visitor center is the park’s only place to stay,
with shady, level campsites, hot showers and This pleasant agricultural service town on
electricity. The shop sells snacks and food, the Río Uruguay won’t keep you spellbound
including slabs of beef for the barbecues; for weeks, but it makes a convenient stop for
I g ua zú Fa ll s & th e N o rth e as t ACS loeonencpgoirntdghie&a REíaotUinrguguay opposite, there’s a restaurant. a night. It’s a citrus town – you can smell the
tang in the air at times – and has a fine cen-
La Aurora del Palmar LODGE, CAMPGROUND $$ tral plaza, riverside beaches and fishing. It
(%03447-15-431689; www.auroradelpalmar.com. also offers a border crossing, across a hydro-
ar; RN14, Km202; campsites per adult/child/tent electric dam, to the Uruguayan city of Salto.
US$11/5/11, d/q from US$120/180; aWsc)
Near the park entrance, this cattle ranch 1 Sights & Activities
and citrus farm has a protected palm forest
as spectacular as the national park itself. It’s Museo Judío de Entre Ríos MUSEUM
an original, well-run place with shady camp-
sites, family duplexes in a pretty bungalow, (%0345-421-4088; www.museojudioer.org.ar; En-
and attractive rooms in renovated railway tre Ríos 476; donation AR$30; h8:30am-12:30pm
carriages. There’s a good swimming pool Sun-Tue, Thu & Fri) Three rooms detailing the
and a restaurant. Canoeing, horseback rid- arrival and struggles of the Jewish gauchos,
ing and palm safaris are available. their way of life and the Holocaust seen
through the eyes of those who experienced
it. Also temporary exhibitions. One block
west and 2½ south of the plaza.
88 Getting There & Away Castillo San Carlos RUIN
El Palmar is on RN14, a major national highway, (admission AR$25; h9am-noon & 2-5pm, 3-6pm
with frequent north–south bus services. Any bus from Nov-Feb) In riverside Parque Rivadavia,
will drop you at the park entrance, 12km from the northeast of town, this ruined mansion was
visitors center. You could walk or hitchhike from built in 1888 by a French industrialist who
THE GAUCHO JUDÍO
The gaucho is an archetypal Argentine image, but it’s little-known that many were of
Jewish origin. The first known mass Jewish immigration was in the late 19th century,
when 800 Russian Jews arrived fleeing persecution from Czar Alexander III.
The Jewish Colonization Association, funded by a German philanthropist, began dis-
tributing 100-hectare parcels of land to immigrant families; the first major colony was
Moisés Ville in Santa Fe province, which became known at the time as Jerusalem Argen-
tina. Today there are only about 300 Jewish residents left in town (15% of the popula-
tion), but many traditions prevail: the tiny town boasts four synagogues, the bakery sells
Sabbath bread, and kids in the street use Yiddish slang words like ‘schlep’ and ‘schlock.’
These rural Jews readily assimilated into Argentine society, mixing their own tradi-
tions with those of their adopted country, so it was not unusual to see a figure on horse-
back in baggy pants, canvas shoes and skullcap on his way to throw a hunk of cow on the
asado (barbecue). Many descendants have since left the land in search of education and
opportunities in the cities. Argentina’s Jews number about 200,000, making them Latin
America’s largest Jewish community.
To learn more about the gauchos judíos, visit Concordia’s Museo Judío de Entre Ríos.
187
mysteriously abandoned the property years
later. Writer Antoine de Saint-Exupéry brief-
ly lived here; there’s a monument to The THERMAL SPAS
Little Prince nearby. Many towns along the Río Uruguay –
4 Sleeping Gualeguaychú, Colón and Concordia
for starters – have tapped the region’s
Hotel Pellegrini HOTEL $ abundant geothermal aquifers to create
(%0345-422-7137; www.turismoentrerios.com/ appealing thermal spa complexes: a ma-
hotelpellegrini; Pellegrini 443; s/d US$30/42; jor focus of domestic tourism in these
aW) By far the best budget choice, three parts. They are well-equipped places
blocks south of the plaza, this friendly with several indoor and outdoor pools
family-run spot offers simple, clean rooms of various temperatures. Entry to most
with TV and bathroom. You’ll usually need of them is around AR$70 to AR$150.
to book ahead, as it’s deservedly popular. Check www.termasdeentrerios.com for
Hotel Salto Grande HOTEL $$ a complete list.
(%0345-421-0034; www.hotelsaltogrande.net; From the port beyond the east end of Carriego, I g ua zú Fa ll s & th e N o rth e as t PSAal seoeonpgdinetghleo sR íLoibUrreusguay
Urquiza 581; turista s/d US$66/83, standard launches cross the river to Salto (AR$70, 15
US$88/110, especial US$110/138; aiWs) Just minutes, four daily Monday to Saturday).
south of the main plaza, this hotel offers ex-
cellent service and fair prices. It’s showing its Buses from Concordia
age but is gradually being renovated. There
are several grades of room; the ‘especial’ ones
are remodeled, but ‘standards’ aren’t much DESTINATION COST (AR$) TIME (HR)
better than regular ‘turista’ ones. Above- Buenos Aires 400 5½-6
average breakfast and parking included. Colón 61 2
Concepción 73 2¾
5 Eating Corrientes 335 7-8
El Reloj PIZZA $ Paraná 128 4½
(Pellegrini 580; pizza AR$70-100; h11am-3:30pm Paso de los Libres 160 4
& 7pm-1am Mon-Sat; W) This spacious brick- Posadas 460-560 8½
walled pizzeria has good ambience and a
staggering selection of options. Half-and-
half? No problem. It also does parrilla. Look 88 Getting Around
out for special deals operating almost nightly.
Bus 2 takes Yrigoyen south from the bus ter-
Malaika ARGENTINE $$ minal to the town center. On its northward run
(%0345-422-4867; www.facebook.com/malaikacon catch it on Pellegrini in front of Banco de la Na-
cordia; 1 de Mayo 59; mains AR$100-160; h11am- ción. A taxi should cost about AR$35.
4pm & 6pm-2am Tue-Sun; Wv) Relaxed and
handsome, this cafe-bar serves a variety of
tasty meals, with salads, pizzas, pasta, snacks Paso de los Libres
and more elaborate fare, including vegetari-
an options and daily specials. Decent wines, % 03772 / POP 40,500
accessible prices, homemade bread, caring
service and a romantic mood seal the deal. The name (‘Crossing of the Free’) is the most
romantic thing about this border town on the
88 Information Río Uruguay. It faces the larger Brazilian city
of Uruguaiana opposite, and is connected to
Tourist Office (% 0345-421-3905; www.con it by a well-used bridge. There’s little to de-
cordia.tur.ar; cnr Pellegrini & Mitre; h 8am- tain the traveler, but the town has plenty of
9pm) On the plaza. The bus terminal info desk cross-border life, a picturesque central plaza,
can also help. and acceptable sleeping and eating options.
4 Sleeping & Eating
88 Getting There & Away Hotel Alejandro Primero HOTEL $
(%03772-424100; www.alejandroprimero.com.ar;
The bus terminal (% 0345-421-7235; cnr Justo Coronel López 502; s/d US$50/70; aiWs)
& Hipólito Yrigoyen) is 13 blocks north of Plaza Ageing but reliable, this has an elegant and
25 de Mayo. Four daily buses (none Sundays) go old-fashioned lobby and restaurant and less
to Salto, Uruguay (AR$80 to AR$88, 1¼ hours).
188 through Misiones en route to the Iguazú Falls
impressive but very spacious rooms. Ask for in the north of the province, but a detour will
one with views over the river and Uruguai take you to another stunning cascade – the
ana. There’s also a pleasant outdoor pool Saltos del Moconá on the Río Uruguay.
and garden area. Card payments cost extra.
The landscape here is striking; you will see
Hotel Las Vegas HOTEL $ a change to gently rolling low hills, stands of
(%03772-423490; hotellasvegas2000@hotmail. bamboo, and fields of papaya and manioc.
com; Sarmiento 554; s/d US$30/50; aW) De- Plantations grow from the region’s trademark
spite the burgundy carpets and ’70s feel, this red-brown soil – the province is the main pro-
isn’t so old and is a well-kept budget place in ducer of mate, Argentina’s national drink.
the town center. Rooms are dark but com-
fortable with adequate bathrooms. Rooms
up the back have more light and space. Ask
for air-con if you want it: you do. Posadas
El Nuevo Mesón ARGENTINE $ % 0376 / POP 324,800
(Colón 587; mains AR$65-110; h11:30am-3pm &
8pm-midnight; W) Still the best place to eat Capital of Misiones, and a base for visiting
I g ua zú Fa ll s & th e N o rth e as t PIMnoifssoiaordnmaeasst i o n in Libres, with waiters smartly turned out in the Jesuit ruins after which the province is
black-and-white and a wide range of decent named, Posadas is a modern city that gazes
dishes. There’s pizza, parrilla, the river fish across the wide Río Paraná to Encarnación
pacú and more elaborate creations, but it’s in Paraguay. It’s a stopover on the way north,
all fairly priced – unlike a couple of tourist and though offers few in-town sights, has a
pleasant riverbank and an enjoyable vibe.
traps in town – and tasty. Grab a table out- 1 Sights
side in fine weather.
The Jesuit missions are the area’s big
88 Information attraction.
There’s no tourist office, but there are maps of oCostanera WATERFRONT
town all over the town center. You can change
money on the international bridge. In the afternoon, the costanera comes alive
with joggers, cyclists, dog walkers, mate sip-
pers, hot-dog vendors and young couples
88 Getting There & Away staring at Paraguay across the water. Pride
of place goes to ‘Andresito,’ a huge stainless-
The bus terminal (%425600) is 1km from down steel sculpture of Guaraní provincial
town. There are services to Buenos Aires (AR$570, strongman Andrés Guacarurí (Guazurary),
eight to nine hours), Posadas (AR$219 to AR$275, looking like the Tin Man in search of a heart.
five to six hours) and Corrientes (AR$220, five
hours) via Mercedes (AR$71, three hours). Fundación Artesanías Misioneras GALLERY
(www.famercosur.com.ar; cnr Alvarez & Arrechea;
Buses to Uruguaiana (AR$15), Brazil, leave h8:30am-12:30pm & 5-8:30pm Mon-Fri, 9:30am-
frequently, stopping on Av San Martín at Colón
and opposite the bus terminal (by the castlelike 12:30pm & 5-8pm Sat) SF Guaraní culture
building). is strong in this part of Argentina; particu-
larly fine pieces are displayed and sold here.
The frontier is open 24 hours. Travelers report There’s another branch on the costanera.
that you can transit to Uruguay without requiring
a Brazilian visa here, but don’t bank on it. T Tours
88 Getting Around Many operators offer tours to Iguazú Falls, the
Jesuit missions and the Esteros del Iberá.
Buses and minibuses (AR$5) run from the
corner below the bus terminal into town. A taxi Guayrá TOUR
downtown is AR$30.
(%0376-443-3415; www.guayra.com.ar; La Rioja
1481) Very helpful agency (on the 3rd floor)
offering half-day tours to the Jesuit mis-
MISIONES sions, Paraguayan missions, Saltos del Mo-
coná and more.
The narrow northeastern province of Mi-
siones juts out like an Argentine finger be- Yacaré Tours TOUR
tween Brazilian and Paraguayan territory
and is named for the Jesuit missions whose (%0376-442-1829; www.yacaretours.com.ar; Bolí
ruins are now a major attraction. Buses churn var 1419) Offers half-day trips to Argentine
189
Posadas e# 0 400 m
A 0 0.2 miles
1 B C D
General Frías
10 ú#
12 ú# ParaRníoá
1
Av Almafuerte Pedernera 1
#æ* Costanera
Alvarez Arrechea Av Cos
Av Roque Pérez 3 â# tanera#á 2
2 Jujuy Alvear 2
San Luis Belgrano 3
Junín Santa Fe I g ua zú Fa ll s & th e N o rth e as t MTPoisusiraosdnaess4
Ayacucho Sarmiento 5
San Lorenzo San Martín D
Colón Bolivar
Azara
Buenos Aires #ÿ#
59
Av Corrientes San Martín Catedral
San José #4
7 0000000009ü#000000000dPeÜ#la000000000#úJzu000000000alio000000000
3 Bolívar ÿ# ò#
Córdoba 13 11
Rivadavia
La RiojaS000000000a000000000PnPBalM000000000uarasza000000000gearsut000000000BíatnAoyuis›#›#rp2o8rtto ï# 3 de Febrero
Entre Ríos 25 de Mayo
General Paz
6 ÿ# Catamarca J Lanusse Av Roque Sáenz Peña
4 Coronel López
Salta
D Tucumán
Bus Terminal
(5km) Santiago del Estero 8
5 ÿ#
Av Bartolomé Mitre
Uruguay
Apeadero Posadas (2km road; 500m foot);
Encarnación (Paraguay) (10km)
ABCD
Posadas 7 Hotel Posadas Urbano............................B3
8 Le Petit Hotel ...........................................C5
æ Top Sights 9 Posadeña Linda .......................................C3
1 Costanera .................................................C1 ú Eating
10 Astillero..................................................... C1
æ Sights 11 La Querencia............................................B3
2 Andresito statue ......................................D1 12 La Tradicional Rueda .............................. C1
3 Fundación Artesanías Misioneras.........C1 û Drinking & Nightlife
13 La Nouvelle Vitrage.................................B3
Ø Activities, Courses & Tours
4 Guayrá ...................................................... C4
5 Yacaré Tours ........................................... C3
ÿ Sleeping
6 Grand Crucero Posadas Express ......... B4
190 4 Sleeping
(two people AR$1650) and Paraguayan (two
people AR$1250) missions. Also has trips to Posadeña Linda HOSTEL $
mate plantations, the Saltos del Moconá, Es- (%0376-443-9238; www.hostelposadasmisiones.
teros del Iberá and more. com; Bolívar 1439; dm US$13-15, d US$32; aiW
s) Run with a caring attitude, this narrow
z Festivals & Events hostel a short walk from the plaza offers a
genuine welcome, comfortable bunkrooms
Posadas celebrates Carnaval (in February or with bathroom and a patio with a tiny plunge
March, depending on the year) with great pool. En suite private rooms are a little mus-
gusto.
I g ua zú Fa ll s & th e N o rth e as t MFPeoissitaoidvnaaeslss & E v e n t s THE OTHER FALLS
Apart from Iguazú, the remote and unusual Saltos del Moconá also live long in the
memory. A geological fault in the bed of the Río Uruguay divides the river lengthwise and
water spills over the shelf between the two sections, creating a waterfall some 3km long
and up to 15m high, depending on the water level.
The falls aren’t always visible; if the river is high, you’re out of luck. January to March
is normally the best time to visit.
The falls are at Misiones’ eastern edge, roughly equidistant from Posadas and Puerto
Iguazú. From Posadas, several daily buses leave for El Soberbio (AR$123, four hours);
from here it’s 63km to the falls: there are three daily bus services.
At the end of the road, you cross the Río Yabotí (or not, if it’s high) and arrive in Parque
Provincial Moconá (http://saltosdelmocona.tur.ar; RP 2; foreigners AR$30; h9am-5pm).
Here there’s a visitor center, walking trails with views of the falls, boat excursions to get
you up close (AR$250), and a restaurant. The park website tells you the visible height of
the falls; it’s crucial to check before coming.
Various operators, including most accommodations in the area, run boat trips to the
falls from points further away: these are recommended, as you get to see Brazilian and
Argentine jungle reserves on each side, an attraction in itself.
El Soberbio is an interesting service center for a lush agricultural area growing tobacco,
citronella and manioc. There’s a ferry crossing to Brazil, and blond heads are every-
where, a legacy of German and Eastern European immigrants joining the native Guaraní
population. Oxcarts are still commonly used for transport.
The several places to stay include spotless motel-style Hostal Del Centro (%03755-
495133; cnr Rivadavia & San Martín; s/d US$17.50/35; aW), right in the center of town but built
around a grassy courtyard; rooms are good for the price and there’s a kitchen you can use.
Several upmarket jungly lodges, simple cabins and campsites are closer to the falls,
including:
Posada Guatambú (%011-4729-6820; www.posadaguatambu.com; RP2, Km35; cabins
US$71) Two sweet, roomy cabins make for a romantic retreat at this spot 3km off the
road midway between El Soberbio and the falls. It’s a spectacular property, with ample
forested grounds and a river to bathe in. Hosts are engaged and welcoming, and provide
tasty homestyle meals.
Posada La Misión (%011-15-3415-0500; www.lodgelamision.com.ar; RP2, Km36; s/d incl
dinner US$107/130, master suite US$191/227; aWsc) This superbly-situated spot sits
on the riverbank 35km from El Soberbio. There are two types of room – rustic with fan
and beautiful ‘master suites’ with air-con, veranda with view and modern bathroom with
Jacuzzi. Rates are half-board and include excursions if you stay two nights or more.
Don Enrique Lodge (%011-15-5932-6262; www.donenriquelodge.com.ar; Colonia La Flor;
s/d incl full-board & activities US$150/260; W) Beautiful wooden bungalows in a very
remote location with the river below make for a romantic getaway. Delicious food and
welcoming hosts seal the deal. Rate is full board, with guided walks and other activities
included. The turnoff is 16km from El Soberbio, then another 16km up a rough road. A
pickup will take you the last stretch.
191
ty but a decent deal. It’s colorful and relaxing La Querencia PARRILLA $$
with a compact but OK kitchen. Despite the (Bolívar 1867; mains AR$90-130; hnoon-2:30pm &
address, it’s between 1411 and 1419. 8pm-12:30am Mon-Sat, noon-2:30pm Sun; W) On
the plaza, this upmarket parrilla specializ-
Le Petit Hotel HOTEL $ es in delicious galeto. Also memorable are
(%0376-443-6031; www.hotellepetit.com.ar; Santi- the brochettes (giant spikes with various
ago del Estero 1630; s/d US$50/60; aiW) Not delicious meats impaled upon them). Salads
so petit after a recent expansion, but peace- are also unusually well prepared. Service is
ful and simple, this hotel is run by kindly great and the atmosphere a highlight.
people. It features dark, clean, adequate
rooms that are spotlessly clean and surround Astillero
ARGENTINE $$
a leafy patio or central atrium. It feels a little (Av Costanera s/n; mains AR$110-170; hnoon-3pm
overpriced but has a nice location in a quiet, & 8pm-midnight; W) Tucked away behind foli
safe residential zone seven blocks from the age on the riverbank strip, this has a tree-
heart of things. Cards 20% extra. house feel with three levels and a balcony
with limited Paraná vistas. The food was a
oHotel Posadas Urbano HOTEL $$ bit up-and-down when we visited, but the
(%0376-444-3800; www.hahoteles.com; Bolívar setting is romantic and the menu has poten-
2176; s/d/ste US$96/111/157; aiWs) This tial. The wine list is full of good things, but I g ua zú Fa ll s & th e N o rth e as t MPEaoitssiiaondngaess
smartly renovated hotel has rapidly be- lacks budget options.
come top dog with its wide array of facili-
ties and great central location. Bright, very 6 Drinking & Nightlife
large carpeted chambers all have gleaming
bathrooms, balconies and big windows with Most weekend action is down at the costan
views over town. Suites add space but little era, where a knot of eateries, bars and clubs
else. The atrium pool area, art exhibitions, go loud and late.
gym and spa facilities, and appealing lounge La Nouvelle Vitrage CAFE
add points.
(Bolívar 1899; h6am-1am; W) This traditional,
amiable cafe on the plaza has a comfy interior
Grand Crucero Posadas Express HOTEL $$ and a terrace perfect for watching everyday
(%0376-443-6901; www.grandcrucero.com; San life in Posadas go by. It serves an excellent
Lorenzo 2208; s/d/ste US$100/114/193; aiW) Fernet and cola: you know you want one.
Owned by a bus company, this smart recon-
version of an older hotel has resulted in crisp
modern rooms with local art on the walls 88 Information
and a fresh feel. All come with safe, mini- Misiones Tourist Office (% 0376-444-7539;
fridge and good-looking bathrooms, while www.misiones.tur.ar; Colón 1985; h7am-8pm)
suites are large, have two flatscreens, laptop There are other tourist kiosks around town, but
and coffee machine. Staff are professional this is the most reliably open.
and friendly and there’s a bar-restaurant. 88 Getting There & Away
5 Eating AIR
Aerolíneas Argentinas (% 0810-222-86527;
A delicious speciality is galeto (chargrilled Sarmiento 2280; h8am-noon & 4-8pm Mon-
chicken pieces stuffed with bacon, red pep- Fri, 8am-noon Sat) flies daily to Buenos Aires.
pers and butter). A string of popular places
along Bolívar west of the plaza do lomitos, BUS
sandwiches and other cheap eats. Buses to Encarnación (AR$18), Paraguay, leave
every 20 minutes, stopping at the corner of San
oLa Tradicional Rueda PARRILLA $$ Lorenzo and Entre Ríos. With queues and border
(La Ruedita; Arrechea & Av Costanera; mains formalities, the trip can take more than an hour.
AR$85-150; h11am-3:30pm & 7:30pm-midnight or Everyone gets out to clear Argentine emigra-
later; W) Stylish and traditional in feel, with tion. If the bus leaves without you, keep your
uniformed waiters and sturdy wooden seats, ticket and catch the next one. The same hap-
this two-level grillhouse has a prime river- pens on the Paraguayan side. There’s a tourist
side position: look for the wooden wheel office by Paraguayan immigration, and official
outside. There’s excellent service; quality moneychangers hanging around. Get small
meats and nice lines in salads and river fish denominations: a 100,000 guaraní note is hell
put this a class above most parrilla places. to change.
192
Buses from Posadas mospheric and impressive for the quantity of
carved ornamentation still visible and for the
DESTINATION COST (AR$) TIME (HR) amount of restoration. The interpretation
Buenos Aires 957 12-14 center provides good background informa-
Corrientes 270 4-4½ tion, and the ruins themselves feature inter-
Paso de los Libres 219-275 5-6 active panels providing multilingual audio.
Puerto Iguazú 258 4½-5½
Resistencia 287 4½-5 Admission includes entry to the nearby
Rosario 879 14-15 ruins at Santa Ana and Loreto and to Santa
San Ignacio 46 1 María la Mayor, a little further afield.
Tucumán 980 15
There is a worthwhile sound-and-light
I g ua zú Fa ll s & th e N o rth e as t MSGaeisntitoIignnnegascAiroo und TRAIN show (foreigners AR$150) at the ruins every
A shiny new rail service connects Posadas and non-rainy night.
Encarnación in Paraguay, leaving Posadas every
30 minutes from 7:15am to 6:15pm (AR$18, six Founded in 1610 in Brazil, but abandoned
minutes). You clear both Argentine and Para- after repeated slaver attacks, San Ignacio
guayan authorities at the Apeadero Posadas was established here in 1696 and functioned
station (www.sofse.gob.ar). until the Jesuit expulsion. The ruins, redis-
covered in 1897 and restored between 1940
88 Getting Around and 1948, are a great example of ‘Guaraní
baroque.’ At its peak, the settlement had a
Posadas’ bus terminal can be reached from down- Guaraní population of nearly 4000.
town by bus 8, 15 (from Junín), 21 or 24 (AR$8). It
costs about AR$90 in a taxi. From the bus termi- The interpretation center includes an
nal, catch buses from the adjacent local terminal. audiovisual and unbiased information (in
Spanish and English) about the missions
Bus 28 (AR$8) goes to the airport from San from both Jesuit and Guaraní perspectives.
Lorenzo (between La Rioja and Entre Ríos). A You can listen to Guaraní music, includ-
remise costs around AR$100. ing some religious pieces composed at the
missions, and inspect a virtual model of San
Buses 7 and 12 (AR$8) go to the Apeadero Ignacio as it would have been.
Posadas station.
There are free guided tours (multilingual)
San Ignacio of the ruins. You pass between rows of Guar-
aní houses before arriving at the plaza, on
% 0376 / POP 6800 one side of which is the enormous red sand-
stone church. Impressive in its dimensions,
The best preserved of the Argentine mis- it is the focal point of the settlement. While
sions, San Ignacio Miní is the central attrac- the red-brown stone picturesquely contrasts
tion of this small town north of Posadas. You with the green grass, the buildings were
could visit from Posadas or on your way to originally white. Before lime was available,
Iguazú, but making this a stopover appeals: it was obtained by burning snail shells.
there are good places to stay, and you’ll have
a chance to check out the excellent sound- Times for the nightly show vary accord-
and-light show at the ruins. San Ignacio is ing to the number of groups. It’s a touching,
a good base for visiting other mission ruins, at times haunting, experience played out
both in Argentina and Paraguay. in various locations using projections onto
a mist of water spray, giving a ghostlike
San Ignacio is 56km northeast of Posadas quality. Headsets offer a variety of languages.
via RN12. From the highway junction, Av
Sarmiento leads 1km to the town center, where Casa de Horacio Quiroga MUSEUM
Rivadavia leads six blocks north to the ruins.
(Av Quiroga s/n; admission AR$50; h7am-5:30pm)
Uruguayan writer Horacio Quiroga was a get-
back-to-nature type who found his muse in
the rough-and-ready Misiones backwoods
lifestyle. His simple stone house at the south-
1 Sights ern end of town (a 30-minute walk) was built
oSan Ignacio Miní RUIN by himself. An adjacent wooden house is a
reconstruction made for a biopic. To reach
(www.misiones.tur.ar; entrance Calle Alberdi s/n; them, a trail through sugarcane lets you learn
combined missions ticket foreigners/Mercosur/
Argentines AR$150/130/100; h7am-5:30pm Apr- via panels and audioguide about Quiroga’s
Oct, 7am-7pm Nov-Mar) These mission ruins are deeply tragic life, so full of shotgun accidents
the most complete of those in Argentina: at- and doses of cyanide it’s almost funny.
2 Activities 193
Parque Provincial Teyú Cuaré OUTDOORS cycling, views from riverside clifftops and
Head down to this protected peninsula on beaches. There are several small Guaraní
the Río Paraná for forest walking – there settlements here which welcome visitors
are four marked interpretive trails – and and sell handcrafts. A local will show you
around for a fee or tip.
A TRIUMPH OF HUMANITY I g ua zú Fa ll s & th e N o rth e as t SAMacisntiiovI gninteaisecsi o
For a century and a half from 1609, a great social experiment was carried out in the
jungles of South America by the Society of Jesus (the Jesuits). Locating themselves in
incredibly remote areas, priests set up reducciones (missions), where they established
communities of Guaraní whom they evangelized and educated, while at the same time
protecting them from slavery and the evil influences of colonial society. It was a utopi-
an ideal that flourished and led Voltaire to describe it as ‘a triumph of humanity which
seems to expiate the cruelties of the first conquerors.’
For the Guaraní who were invited to begin a new life in the missions, there were tangible
benefits, including security, nourishment and prosperity. Mortality declined immediately
and mission populations grew rapidly. At their peak the 30 Jesuit reducciones that were
spread across what’s now Argentina, Brazil and Paraguay were populated by more than
100,000 Guaraní. Each mission had a minimum of Europeans: two priests was the norm,
and the Guaraní governed themselves under the Jesuits’ spiritual authority. The Jesuits
made no attempt to force the Guaraní to speak Spanish and only sought to change those
aspects of Guaraní culture – polygamy and occasional cannibalism – that clashed with
Catholic teaching. Each Guaraní family was given a house and children were schooled.
The typical reducción consisted of a large central plaza, dominated by the church and
colegio, which housed the priests and also contained art workshops and storerooms.
The houses of the Guaraní occupied the rest of the settlement in neat rows; other build-
ings might include a hospital, a cotiguazú that housed widows and abandoned wives,
and a cabildo where the Guaraní’s chosen leader lived.
Settlements were self-sufficient; the Guaraní were taught agriculture and food was
distributed equally. As time went on and the missions grew, wooden buildings were re-
placed by stone ones and the churches, designed by master architects with grandiose
dreams, were stunning edifices with intricate baroque stonework and sculpture compa-
rable with the finest churches being built in Europe.
Indeed, the missions’ most enduring achievement was perhaps artistic. The Guaraní
embraced the art and music they were introduced to and, interweaving European styles
with their own, produced beautiful music, sculpture, dance and painting in ‘Guaraní ba-
roque’ style. The Jesuits’ religious music strongly attracted the Guaraní to Catholicism.
However, mission life necessarily had a martial side. Raiding parties of bandeirantes
(armed bands) from Brazil regularly sought slaves for sugar plantations, and the Jesuits
were resented by both Spanish and Portuguese colonial authorities. There were regular
skirmishes and battles until a notable victory over an army of 3000 slavers at Mbororó in
1641 ushered in a period of comparative security.
The mission period came to an abrupt end. Various factors, including envy from the
colonial authority and settlers, and a feeling that the Jesuits were more loyal to their own
ideas than those of the Crown, prompted Carlos III of Spain to ban them from his domin-
ions in 1767, following the lead of Portugal and France. With the priests gone, the commu-
nities were vulnerable and the Guaraní gradually dispersed. The decaying missions were
then ruined in the wars of the early 19th century.
The 1986 film The Mission is about the last days of the Jesuit missions and intrigu-
ingly cast a Colombian tribe, the Waunana, who had had almost no contact with white
people, as the Guaraní.
Almost nothing remains of several of Argentina’s 15 missions, but those well worth
visiting include San Ignacio Miní in San Ignacio, Loreto and Santa Ana; Yapeyú; and Santa
María la Mayor. The fabulous Paraguayan missions at Jesús de Tavarangüe and Trinidad
can be easily visited on a day trip too. Others are not too far away in southern Brazil.
194 La Misionerita ARGENTINE $
(RN12; mains AR$65-110; h4am-midnight; W) On
T Tours
oTierra Colorada TOUR the highway opposite the town entrance, this
(%0376-437-3448; tierracoloradaturismo@gmail. has impressive opening hours, friendly ser-
com; RN12) This all-round helpful operator
just below the bus terminal runs tours to the vice and a decent range of burgers, milane
sas and the like, along with grill options and
Paraguayan missions (US$40 per person) river fish. One of the few evening options.
and Moconá falls (AR$2500 for up to four
people), plus good-value transfers and pack-
ages to Los Esteros del Iberá. It also hires 88 Information
bikes (per day AR$120), can arrange kayak-
ing on the river and visits to Guaraní settle- Tourist Office (h7am-9pm) At the highway
junction. Not very useful.
ments, securely stores baggage, books buses 88 Getting There & Away
and gives impartial tourist information.
The bus terminal is on the main road near the
I g ua zú Fa ll s & th e N o rth e as t ATMonisauiro&snLeosr e t o 4 Sleeping & Eating town entrance. Services between Posadas
(AR$45, one hour) and Puerto Iguazú (AR$140
Various daytime-only eating options – to AR$180, four to five hours) are frequent.
serving burgers, pizzas and milanesas –
crowd the streets around the ruins.
oAdventure Hostel HOSTEL $ Santa Ana & Loreto
(%0376-447-0955; www.sihostel.com.ar; Indepen
dencia 469; dm US$12-16, d US$50, campsites per Atmospherically decaying in the humid for-
person US$10; aiWsc) This well-run, est, these two Jesuit missions are both off
motivated place has comfortable dorms with RN12, between Posadas and San Ignacio.
either three beds or four bunk-berths, decent
private rooms with renovated bathrooms, and Admission for both is via a combined mis-
excellent facilities. There’s everything from a sions ticket that includes San Ignacio Miní
climbing wall to pool (both kinds), ping-pong and Santa María la Mayor. Guided tours are
included in the admission price.
and seesaws in the spacious grounds. Tasty 1 Sights
homemade breakfasts are included. The res-
taurant does decent pasta-pizza-type meals; Santa Ana RUIN
there’s also bike hire (AR$120 per day) and (www.misiones.tur.ar; combined missions ticket
foreigners/Mercosur/Argentines AR$150/130/100;
powered campsites. HI discount. It’s next to h 7am-5:30pm Apr-Oct, 7am-7pm Nov-Mar) At
the plaza, two blocks south of the church
Santa Ana, which was founded in 1633 but
moved here in 1660, dense forest has been
Hotel La Toscana HOTEL $ partially removed to reveal a settlement
(%0376-447-0777; www.hotellatoscana.com.ar; cnr
H Irigoyen & Uruguay; s/d/tr/q US$30/40/45/50; that had over 7000 Guaraní inhabitants at
its peak. The enormous 140-sq-meter plaza
aWs) In a peaceful part of town half a attests to its importance. The muscular
block from the highway, this simple, wel-
coming Italian-run place is a relaxing retreat church’s thick walls and photogenic strangler
figs lend a dramatic effect to what must have
indeed. Cool, spacious basic rooms surround been a magnificent building, though none of
a great pool, deck and garden area. It’s a top
spot to unwind and offers top value. its decorative embellishments remain. The
cemetery, used into the later half of the 20th
century, is now neglected.
Hotel San Ignacio HOTEL $
(%0376-447-0047; www.hotelsanignacio.com.ar;
cnr Sarmiento & San Martín; s/d US$25/44, 4- Behind the church, a channel and reser-
voir remain from what was a sophisticated
p erson cabañas US$62; aiW) Located bang irrigation system.
in the center, this is an excellent budget
choice for clean, quiet, comfortable rooms, Nuestra Señora de Loreto RUIN
great bathrooms, benevolent owners, and an (www.misiones.tur.ar; combined missions ticket
foreigners/Mercosur/Argentines AR$150/130/100;
attached bar and internet cafe. A-frame cab- h7am-5 :30pm Apr-Oct, 7am-7pm Nov-Mar) Loreto,
ins out back are good value for groups. The
bar does simple food. You may never find it founded in 1632, has few visible remains but
is atmospheric. There’s ongoing restoration,
easier to be the best pool player in town, but but the jungle is king here again and it’s dif-
the foosball is a different story. No breakfast.
ficult to interpret the tumbled mossy stones
195
VISITING THE PARAGUAYAN MISSIONS I g ua zú Fa ll s & th e N o rth e as t MG eiastritíoainnlegasTMhaeyroer& Away
From Posadas (or San Ignacio) there’s a very rewarding day trip to two Jesuit missions
in Paraguay. The ruined but majestic churches at Trinidad and Jesús de Tavarangüe have
been carefully restored and preserve fabulous stonework.
From Posadas, bus or train it to Encarnación. From the bus terminal (buses stop here,
or bus here from the Encarnación train station; G2500), buses (most marked Ciudad del
Este) run roughly half-hourly to Trinidad (G7000, 50 to 60 minutes). Get the driver to let
you off at the turnoff to the ruins; it’s then a 700m walk.
The Trinidad ruins (Trinidad, Paraguay; combined mission ticket G35,000; h7am-7pm
Apr-Sep, 7am-5:30pm Oct-Mar) are spectacular, with the church’s red-brown stone con-
trasting strongly with the flower-studded green grass and surrounding hillscapes. There
is much decoration preserved: scalloped niches still hold timeworn sculptures, and the
font and elaborate baroque pulpit are impressive. Doorways are capped with fine carved
decoration. You can climb to the top of one of the walls; an earlier church and bell tower
have also been restored. There’s a hotel and restaurant by the ruins.
Walk back to the main road and turn right. At the gas station 200m along is the turnoff
to Jesús de Tavarangüe, 12km away. Shared taxis (G7500) wait here to fill, and buses
pass every two hours. You can get a taxi to take you, wait for you and bring you back to
the turnoff for about G30,000.
The restored church at Jesús (Jesús de Tavarangüe, Paraguay; combined mission ticket
G35,000; h7am-7pm Apr-Sep, 7am-5:30pm Oct-Mar) was never finished. Spectacular trefoil
arches (a nod to Spain’s Moorish past) and carved motifs of crossed swords and keys
make it perhaps the most picturesque of all the Jesuit ruins. The treble-naved church,
with green grass underfoot, is on a similarly monumental scale as Trinidad. Climb the
tower for views of the surrounding countryside.
Back on the main road, Encarnación-bound buses stop by the gas station. From En-
carnación, Posadas-bound buses stop outside the bus terminal, opposite the school.
A joint ticket for the ruins at Trinidad, Jesús and San Cosme (southwest of Encar-
nación) is G35,000; it’s valid for three days.
Though some nationalities need a visa to enter Paraguay (check before you go), offi-
cially you can get a 24-hour transit stamp on the bridge (so bus not train). This is some-
times free and sometimes charged.
A single-entry visa (US$65, but US$135 for Australians) from the Paraguayan
consulate (%0376-442-3858; http://paraguay.int.ar; San Lorenzo 1561; h7am-2pm Mon-Fri)
in Posadas can be ready in about an hour. You’ll need two passport photos, a copy of
your credit card or similar proof of funds. You can try going through without stamping in,
but you risk a fine if caught.
You can also visit the ruins from San Ignacio: get the bus to Corpus, then cross to Paraguay
on the ferry (8am to 5pm Monday to Friday). The 24-hour stamps are available here too.
Tour operators in both Posadas and San Ignacio offer day trips to the Paraguayan ruins.
among the trees, so the free guided tour is drop off at the Loreto ruins themselves. This
worthwhile. It was one of the more important makes it easy to see both in a day trip from San
missions; a printing press was built here, the Ignacio. You can get a remise from San Ignacio
first in the southern part of the continent. to take you to both, including waiting time, for
about AR$500.
88 Getting There & Away
Santa María la Mayor
Buses heading north from Posadas stop at the
turnoffs on RN12 for both sites. Santa Ana’s is at Further afield, Santa María la Mayor (RP2,
Km1382.5, from where it’s a 700m walk to the Km43; combined missions ticket foreigners/
ruins. Loreto’s is at Km1389, with a 2.5km walk. Mercosur/Argentines AR$150/130/100; h 7am-
It can be intensely hot, so take plenty of water. 5:30pm Apr-Oct, 7am-7pm Nov-Mar) is the fourth
mission on the joint admission ticket. A
From San Ignacio, an hourly bus (AR$13 to Lo- sizable plaza is the main feature, with the
reto, AR$18 to Santa Ana) leaves from the center
to the turnoffs for both missions – some actually
196
church very ruinous. The settlement was Seeing the Falls
large, with printing press and prison; the
chapel is a 20th-century addition. It’s a re- The Brazilian and Argentine sides offer dif-
laxing place surrounded by jungle that’s ferent views and experiences. Go to both
great for bird-w atching, with toucans and (perhaps to the Brazilian first) and hope for
trogons easily spotted. sun. The difference between a clear and an
overcast day at the falls is vast: ideally plan
The ruins are on the RP2 between Con- a multiple-day stay to have a better shot at
cepción de la Sierra and San Javier, 110km optimal conditions.
southeast of Posadas.
While the Argentine side, with its variety
To get there, take a bus from Posadas to of trails and boat rides, offers many more
Concepción. There, change to a San Javier– opportunities to see individual falls close up,
bound service and ask the driver to let you the Brazilian side yields the more panoramic
off at the ruins, 25km down the road. You views. You can easily make day trips to both
can get a San Javier–bound bus direct from sides of the falls, no matter which side of the
Posadas, but not all run via the ruins: check. border you base yourself on. Some choose to
see both sides in one day, but it’s a rush and
I g ua zú Fa ll s & th e N o rth e as t MDI gaaunragízaeúrlsFaa&Ml laAysnonro yanc e s IGUAZÚ FALLS not recommended.
One of the planet’s most awe-inspiring sights, National Parks
the Iguazú Falls are simply astounding. A
visit is a jaw-dropping, visceral experience, Both the Argentine and Brazilian sides of
and the power and noise of the cascades – a the falls are national parks: Parque Nacional
chain of hundreds of waterfalls nearly 3km Iguazú and Parque Nacional do Iguaçu, re-
in extension – live forever in the memory. An spectively. High temperatures, humidity and
added benefit is the setting: the falls lie split rainfall encourage a diverse habitat: the parks’
between Brazil and Argentina in a large ex- rainforest contains more than 2000 identified
panse of national park, much of it rainforest plant species, countless insects, 400 species of
teeming with unique flora and fauna. birds, and many mammals and reptiles.
The falls are easily reached from either side The Iguazú forests consist of multiple
of the Argentine–Brazilian border, as well as levels, the highest a 30m canopy. Beneath
from nearby Paraguay. Both Argentina’s Puer- are several additional levels of trees, plus
to Iguazú and Foz do Iguaçu, on the Brazilian a dense ground-level growth of shrubs and
side, have a wide choice of accommodations. herbaceous plants.
History & Environment Pumas, jaguars and tapirs all reside in the
parks, but you won’t see them. Most com-
According to Guaraní tradition, the falls mon is the coati, a relative of the raccoon,
originated when a warrior named Caroba and capuchin monkeys. Iguanas are com-
incurred the wrath of a forest god by escap- mon, and watch out for snakes.
ing downriver in a canoe with a young girl,
Naipur, with whom the god was infatuated. Tropical bird species add color, with tou-
Enraged, the god caused the riverbed to col- cans and various parrot species easily seen.
lapse in front of the lovers, producing a line The best time to see birds is early morning
of precipitous falls over which Naipur fell along the forest trails.
and, at their base, turned into a rock. Caroba
survived as a tree overlooking it. Despite regular official denials, the heavy
impact of so many visitors to the area has
Geologists have a more prosaic version. clearly driven much of the wildlife further
The Río Iguazú’s course takes it over a basal- into the parks, so the more you explore the
tic plateau that ends abruptly just short of region away from the falls themselves, the
the confluence with the Paraná. Where the more you’ll see.
lava flow stopped, thousands of cubic me-
ters of water per second now plunge down 88 Dangers & Annoyances
as much as 80m into sedimentary terrain
below. Before reaching the falls, the river di- River currents are strong and swift; tourists
vides into many channels with rocks and is- have been swept downriver and drowned. Of
lands separating the many distinct cascades course, don’t get too close to the falls proper.
that together form the famous 2.7km-long
cataratas (waterfalls). Heat and humidity are often intense and
there’s plenty of hungry insect life, so pack
sunscreen and repellent. Take your own water.
On both sides, you’ll encounter coatis. Keep
food well away from them; though these clown-
197
Iguazú Falls e# 0 5 km
0 2.5 miles
Ciudad
äb7 del Este D Itaipú Dam ,´277
(9km)
#\ #\ Foz do Iguaçu
Ponte da BRAZIL
Amizade Paraná
Ponto Ponte Presidente
Meira #\ Tancredo Neves
Ferry Bocamora Iguazú Grand Aeroporto
#– Foz do Iguaçu
Hito Argentino á#ú# \# ÿ# ÿ#Loi Suites RioØ#IguHa#ïçelVBisirusailztoilriaCnePnartqdreuoeI#÷gNuaacçiuonal
Puerto Iguazú ÿ#La Cantera
PARAGUAY #z Parque
Casa Ecológica Iguazú ÷# das Aves
de Botellas ÿ#Hostel NRaecsieornvaal
I g ua zú Fa ll s & th e N o rth e as t IPSgiuugeahrzttsúo &FI agAluclatszi vúi t i e s#æ
Y##z Inn
uGüirá
Oga
D
¦!12 ÷#
Rio Paraná NPaacriqouneal
Sheraton Iguazú
Paseo Inferior/ Iguazú
Superior ï# ÿ# ÿ# Hotel das Cataratas
TraiCnaStatraattioaInsg£#uFaazllús#Y£##úGdPeaolrDrgtaioanCbtalaonoas
ARGENTINA
Garganta del Diablo
!¦12 Train Station #¨101
Aeropuerto
Internacional
Posadas de Iguazú –#
(257km)
ish omnivores seem tame, they become aggres- tions; there are also many excellent places
sive around food and will bite and scratch to rob to stay and eat.
you of it. Both parks have medical points in case
of coati attack. 1 Sights & Activities
You are likely to get soaked, or at least very There’s little to see in the town itself.
damp, from the spray at the falls, so keep doc-
uments and cameras protected in plastic bags. Hito Argentino VIEWPOINT
You can buy plastic ponchos on both sides.
(Av Tres Fronteras) A kilometer west of the
Stamps on sale at the Argentine side of the center, this is a great viewpoint with a small
park cannot be posted anywhere but in the park obelisk painted in Argentine colors at the im-
itself or large cities. pressive confluence of the Ríos Paraná and
Iguazú. From here you can see Brazil and
Puerto Iguazú Parag uay, with similar markers on their sides.
A desultory artesanía market is also here.
% 03757 / POP 42,000
Güirá Oga ZOO
Booming Puerto Iguazú sits at the conflu-
ence of the Ríos Paraná and Iguazú and (www.guiraoga.com.ar; RN12, Km5; admission
looks across to Brazil and Paraguay. There’s AR$100; h9am-6pm, last entry 5pm) S On the
little feeling of community: everyone is here way to the falls, this is an animal hospital
to see the falls or to make a buck out of and center for rehabilitation of injured wild-
them, and planning laws seem nonexistent life. It also carries out valuable research into
as hotels go up on every street. Still, it’s qui- the Iguazú forest environment and has a
et, safe and has good transportation connec- breeding program for endangered species.
198 e# 0 400 m
0 0.2 miles
Puerto Iguazú B C D
A
Río Iguazú
1 Av Córdoba Lindstronÿ#3 1
1 BeltránYapeyú
8 ÿ#
#
2
15 ú# Uruguay
Félix de Azara Paraguay 3
Boutique Hotel Bertoni 2 ÿ# ÿ# 6 San Lorenzo
de la Fonte & û#23
De la Fonte (1km); Av San Martín ÿ#
2 Hito Argentino #û
(1.25km); 11
Bocamora
(1.4km) ò# 24Av Brasil Av Mis2iú#o0nesBoÿ#9mpÿ#1la0nd El Urú ÿ#
El Mensú
21 12
I g ua zú Fa ll s & th e N o rth e as t SIPgiuugeahrzttsúo &FI agAluclatszi vúi t i e s AvD Tres Plaza ï#Mú#unicipal
Fronteras
22 ú# 5 ÿ#
Provincial Tourist Office 17 Bus Av Guaraní
Tourist #ï Eppens ú# Terminal
Office ›# Amarante
7ÿ#
3 P 14
Moreno Núñez Thays13ú#ú# Esquiú
Av Belgrano Beltrán
Victoria Yrigoyen
4 ÿ#
Aguirre ú# 16 M Moreno
UshRuaeAiparúgbenlictiana ú# 18
B
4 19 Posada del Jacarandá (600m); 4
A Secret Garden Iguazú (750m);
ú#
D Güirá Oga (3.4km);
La Cantera Iguazú (3.8km)
CD
Puerto Iguazú ú Eating
13 Aqva ....................................................... C3
Ø Activities, Courses & Tours 14 Color....................................................... C3
1 Cruceros Iguazú....................................... A1 15 Feria ....................................................... B2
16 La Dama Juana .....................................C4
ÿ Sleeping 17 La Misionera.......................................... B3
2 Garden Stone .......................................... C2 18 La Rueda................................................ C4
3 Guest House Puerto Iguazú ................... C1 19 La Vitrina ............................................... C4
4 Hospedaje Familiar................................. C4 20 Lemongrass .......................................... B2
5 Hospedaje Lola........................................ C3 21 María Preta............................................ A3
6 Hotel La Sorgente ................................... C2 22 Terra....................................................... B3
7 Hotel Lilian ............................................... C3
8 Iguazú Jungle Lodge............................... D2 û Drinking & Nightlife
9 Irupé Mini ................................................. B3 23 Cuba Libre ............................................. B2
24 Vinosophie............................................. B2
10 Jardín de Iguazú...................................... C2
11 Jasy Hotel ................................................ D2
12 Porämbá Hostel ...................................... D2
You get walked around the jungly park by but there are dedicated English tours at
one of the staff, who explains about the birds 10am and 2pm too.
and animals and the sad stories of how they Casa Ecológica de Botellas ARCHITECTURE
got there. The visit takes about 80 minutes. (http://lacasadebotellas.googlepages.com; RN12,
Km5; adult/child AR$70/40; h9am-6:30pm) S
Tours leave roughly every half hour.
Guides who can speak English, will do so,
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Lonely Planet Argentina
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Lonely Planet Argentina
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