Lonely Planet Argentina

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About 300m off the falls road, this fascinat- dorms, private rooms with or without bath-
ing place is well worth a visit. The owners room, and a small pool. It’s a chilled place
have taken used packaging materials – plas- with a kitchen and a calming atmosphere.
tic bottles, juice cartons and the like – to
build not only an impressive house, but fur- Hospedaje Lola GUESTHOUSE $
nishings and a bunch of original handicrafts (%03757-423954; [email protected];
that make unusual gifts. The guided visit Av Córdoba 255; r US$25-30; aiW) Plenty
talks you through their techniques. of price gouging goes on in Puerto Iguazú,
but it stops at Lola’s front door. This cheap,
T Tours cheerily-run spot is very close to the bus ter-
minal and features compact, clean rooms
Numerous local operators offer day tours to with bathroom for a great price. Wi-fi is good
the Brazilian side of the Iguazú falls, some if you’re close to the family part of the house.
taking in the Itaipu dam and Paraguay shop-
ping as well. Many have offices at the bus Hotel Lilian
HOTEL $
terminal. At the port, there are various op- (%03757-420968; [email protected]; Bel-
tions for boat trips around the junction of trán 183; s US$42, standard/superior d US$55/65,
the Paraná and Iguazú rivers. q US$79; aiW) Run by a hospitable family
who isn’t out to rip tourists off, this friendly I g ua zú Fa ll s & th e N o rth e as t ITPgouuuearzstúo FI aglulasz ú
Cruceros Iguazú BOAT TOUR place offers plenty of value, with bright and
cheerful rooms around a plant-filled patio.
(%03757-421111; www.crucerosiguazu.com; Zona Most superiors – worth the small extra
Puerto; 2-hour cruise AR$290) Daily two-hour outlay – have a balcony and heaps of natural
late-afternoon cruises on the Paraná and light. All bathrooms are spacious and spotless.
Iguazú rivers in a large catamaran.

Iguazú Bike Tours BICYCLE TOUR Things get done the way they should here.

(%03757-15-678220; www.iguazubiketours.com. Irupé Mini GUESTHOUSE $
ar) These guys run anything from gentle (Hostel Irupe; %03757-423618; Av Misiones 82; s
jaunts through the nearby forest to long US$10, d with/without air-con US$25/20; aW)
vehicle-­supported rides through the lesser-­ This is very basic but offers friendliness,
visited corners of Parque Nacional Iguazú. location and decent value for cheap private

4 Sleeping rooms, which are tight, with tiny bathrooms.
Go for rooms at the back, which have more
There are numerous sleeping options for light. Sometimes offers dorm rates.
all budgets, including a string of resort-type
hotels between town and Parque Nacional Hospedaje Familiar GUESTHOUSE $
Iguazú and lots of cabin accommodation (%03757-420810; Beltrán 137; s/tw/d US$20/­
south of this road. In the streets around the 25/30) Quiet with a genuinely cordial wel-
bus terminal are many hostels. Many plac- come, this home offers simple, slightly
es don’t accept credit cards or add a hefty musty rooms with clean en-suite bathrooms
surcharge. at a great price. There’s a basic guest kitchen
and tranquil atmosphere.
Garden Stone HOSTEL $
(%03757-420425; www.gardenstonehostel.com; Av Hostel Inn
HOSTEL $
Córdoba 441; dm US$14, d with/without bathroom (%03757-421823; www.hostel-inn.com; RN12,
US$55/45; aWs) The best feature about this Km5; dm/d US$19/57; aiWs) More back-
amiably-run hostel is its perfectly relaxing packer resort than hostel, set in expansive
garden area, where there’s a pool, common grounds between town and the falls, with
area and simple kitchen. Other good things a party atmosphere, bar and huge pool (ex-
include handiness for the bus terminal, the pect music thumping) out front. The dorms
tasty breakfast (included), darkish but OK in separate buildings are quiet enough,
dorms, and its general peaceful vibe. Private though it’s time for a bit of upkeep. Private
en-suite rooms are attractive and good value. rooms are quite a bit better. Buses stop right
outside. HI discount.
Porämbá Hostel HOSTEL $
(%03757-423041; www.porambahostel.com; El Urú oJasy Hotel
HOTEL $$
120; dm US$13-14, r US$38-68; aiWs) In a (%03757-424337; www.jasyhotel.com; San Lorenzo
very peaceful location but an easy walk from 154; d/q US$110/136; aWsc) Original and
the bus terminal, this is a welcoming family-­ peaceful, these 10 two-level rooms, with a
run hostel with a variety of non-crowded great design for family sleeping, climb a hill

200 walk around the pool, take the bridge across
like a forest staircase and are all equipped it. Attractively remodeled, if dark, rooms
with a balcony gazing over plentiful green- surround it. Breakfast, served in the authen-
ery. Artful use of wood is the signature; tic Italian restaurant, gets the seal of approv-
you’ll fall in love with the bar and deck area. al, too. Cheaper if you pay cash. Staff are a
Prepare to stay longer than planned. There’s little distant, but that’s life.
a decent restaurant open evenings.

Secret Garden Iguazú B&B $$ oBoutique Hotel de la Fonte HOTEL $$$
(%03757-423099; www.secretgardeniguazu.com; (%03757-420625; www.bhfboutiquehotel.com; cnr
Los Lapachos 623; s/d US$90/125; aW) Down Corrientes & 1 de Mayo; r US$190-260; aiWs)
the back of a garden full of birds and green- The mark of a good hotel is constant im-
ery is a bungalow with three spacious, en- provement, and this place adds great fea-
chanting rooms at this welcoming off-track tures so fast we can barely keep up. It’s
B&B. Crosscut timber furniture and well-­ a secluded, enchanting spot, featuring
selected nature prints make for a relaxing charact­erful individually decorated rooms
environment. Breakfast and afternoon tea and suites around a tree-filled courtyard
are standout moments, featuring home- garden that is romantically lit at night. One
made jams, chutneys and banana bread. of the welcoming owners is an architect, and
I g ua zú Fa ll s & th e N o rth e as t SPI gluueeaerzptiúonFgI aglulasz ú Both host and staff are helpful, making this it shows in the numerous small decorative
a fabulously personalized stay. touches and artistic design.

Posada del Jacarandá HOTEL $$ Outdoor hot tubs, a saltwater pool, and
(%03757-423737; www.posadadeljacaranda.com; all-over style and elegance are other great
cnr Andresito & Caraguatá; r US$105; ai- features. The other owner is a chef who runs
Wsc) Harmonious rooms, a terrific atti- the town’s best restaurant on-site, so you’re
tude to guests, gleaming polished floors and in luck there too. A standout.

a peaceful ambience make this a worthwhile La Cantera Iguazú LODGE $$$
midrange choice in the quiet streets to the (%03757-493016; www.hotellacanteraiguazu.com;
southeast of town. There’s a pretty pool area, Selva Iryapú s/n; r US$164-272; aiWsc) Nes-
above-average breakfast and attractive use tled in forest 1.5km off the falls road, this inti-
of wood throughout. More than the sum of mate lodge has appealing ‘tierra’ rooms with
its parts. mosquito-proof balcony in wooden buildings,

Jardín de Iguazú HOTEL $$ some with trees growing through them.
(%03757-424171; www.jardindeiguazu.com.ar; Upper-l­evel ‘jungle’ rooms offer better views
Bomp­ land 274; s/d US$120/133; aWs) Appeal- and have a hammock. Cheaper ‘forest’ rooms
ing for its handy central location, competent are less rustic, while harmonious wooden
staff, pleasant pool and Jacuzzi, and com- ‘villa’ rooms sleep four and have balcony Ja-
fortably bland modern rooms. The standards cuzzis. Good pool area and excellent service.
aren’t super-spacious, so if that’s important
to you, upgrade to a superior, which costs A forest walk with a Guaraní guide is in-
very little extra. Reliable and well-run. cluded and it has its own transport service
to both sides of the falls.

Guest House Puerto Iguazú GUESTHOUSE $$ Loi Suites RESORT $$$
(%03757-423346; www.guesthousepuertoiguazu. (%03757-498300; www.loisuites.com.ar; Selva
com; Lindstron 14; r with/without bathroom Iryapú s/n; r US$384-769; aiWsc) Spectac-
US$92/7­2, ste US$133; aWs) In a hidden-­ ularly set in the jungle, yet just a few kilo-
away plot overlooking the Río Iguazú, this meters from town, this giant complex has
is something of a haven, run by a nearby several buildings connected by walkways.
hotel. There are just a handful of rooms, It’s decorated in a relaxed country style and
elegant and comfortable; two share a good features a huge tree-surrounded triple pool
bathroom. You can use the spacious kitchen, area as its highlight. Rooms are spacious
watch birds in the garden, or kick back on and comfortable; upgrade to a balcony for
the poolside terrace with river views. bird-watching opportunities. There’s a spa
complex too. Online prices are usually lower.

Hotel La Sorgente HOTEL $$ Iguazú Jungle Lodge HOTEL $$$
(%03757-424252; www.lasorgentehotel.com; Av
Córdoba 454; s/d US$97/133; aiWs) Life (%03757-420600; www.iguazujunglelodge.com;
cnr Yrigoyen & San Lorenzo; r/f US$270/355;
couldn’t be easier at this hotel, set around aWsc) A little corporate in feel, but with
a verdant garden – if you can’t face the long

201

a secluded ambience, considering its com- nations is reason enough to come to this
paratively central location, this hotel offers place just down the hill from the Argentine
spacious, well-equipped accommodations border marker. It specializes in grilled meats
with quality beds and jungle balconies in and well-prepared plates of river fish; the
a resort-style complex surrounding a large food is competent and tasty, service is very
pool. Some come with lounge and kitchen. hospitable and the view is just breathtaking.
Staff are multilingual and very helpful. It’s a
great option for families, with a games room Though the kitchen closes, the place is
and suites. Good on-site restaurant. open all afternoon.

5 Eating Color PARRILLA, PIZZA $$
(%03757-420206; www.parrillapizzacolor.com;
Restaurants in Puerto Iguazú are pricey but Av Córdoba 135; mains AR$120-205; h11:30am-­
generally of good quality, and open early midnight; W) This popular indoor-outdoor
for dinner to cater for tourists. Credit cards pizza ’n’ parrilla packs them into its tightly
aren’t widely accepted: ask first. spaced tables, so don’t discuss state secrets.
Prices are OK for this strip, and the meat
comes out redolent of wood smoke; the
oFeria MARKET $ wood-oven pizzas and empanadas are also
(Feirinha; cnr Av Brasil & Félix de Azara; picadas for
2 AR$100-150; h8am-midnight) A really nice very toothsome. I g ua zú Fa ll s & th e N o rth e as t EPI gauuteairzntgúo FI aglulasz ú

place to eat or have a beer is this market La Dama Juana ARGENTINE $$
in the north of town. It’s full of stalls sell-
ing Argentine wines, sausages, olives and (%03757-424051; www.facebook.com/ladama
juanaiguazu; Av Córdoba 42; mains AR$110-170;
cheese to visiting Brazilians, and several of h11:30am-midnight; W) Offering a compact
them put out picadas, grilled meats, other
simple regional dishes and cold beer. There’s interior and pleasant balcony terrace, this is
more informal than most of this strip and
folk music some nights and a good evening offers significant value. Service comes with
atmosphere.
a smile; abundant meat or fish plates with
innovative sauces, and colorful salads, make
La Misionera EMPANADAS $ for pleasant dining. Given that the place is
(P Moreno 210; empanadas AR$12; h11am-­
midnight Mon-Sat) Excellent empanadas with named after a wine bottle (demijohn), the
wine list is mediocre.
a big variety of fillings, as well as delivery
option.
Terra ASIAN $$
(%03757-421931; Av Misiones 125; mains AR$85-
Lemongrass CAFE $ 160; h4pm-midnight; Wv) Chalked signatures
(Bompland 231; snacks AR$30-75; h8:30am-
2:30pm & 5-9:30pm Mon-Sat; v) One of few de- of myriad satisfied customers mark the walls
of this chilled bar-restaurant that speciali­zes
cent cafes in Puerto Iguazú, this offers good in well-prepared, good-value wok dishes,
fresh juices, decent coffee, delicious sweet
temptations, sandwiches, burgers and tasty with teriyaki salmon, pasta and salads as
other options. The streetside terrace fills fast.
savory tarts. Beers, mint-dependent mojitos
and caipirinhas are also available.
La Vitrina PARRILLA $$
(http://lavitrina-puertoiguazu.com; Av Victoria
oMaría Preta ARGENTINE $$ Aguirre 773; mains AR$90-160; hnoon-midnight;
(Av Brasil 39; mains AR$85-165; h7pm-12:30am;
Wv) The indoor-outdoor eating area and W) This homey barn of a place is where you
should come for great asado de tira (ribs)
live music make this a popular dinner among other parrilla choices (including
choice, whether it’s for steaks that are ac-
tually cooked the way you want them, for grilled vegetables). It’s less touristy than
some – you may even spot locals – and has
a wide range of typical Argentine-Spanish enticing outdoor seating. There’s live music
dishes, or for something a little snappier:
caiman fillet. It stays open as a bar and ven- at weekends.

ue until 2am or later. oDe La Fonte GASTRONOMY, ITALIAN $$$

Bocamora ARGENTINE $$ (www.bhfboutiquehotel.com; cnr Corrientes & 1
de Mayo; mains AR$170-330; h7pm-midnight
(%03757-420550; www.bocamora.com; Av Cos- Mon-Sat; W) This exquisite hotel restau-
tanera s/n; mains AR$110-160; hkitchen noon-
3:30pm & 7-11:30pm Wed-Mon; W) A romantic rant, domain of a maverick creative talent,
is super-strong on presentation, whether
location overlooking two rivers and three

202 88 Information
homemade pasta or inventive creations with
a touch of molecular gastronomy. The im- Currency exchange places are along Av Victoria
agination on display presents local tropical Aguirre downtown. If you’ve got Brazilian reais,
flavors seamlessly intertwined with prime you’re much better off changing them in Brazil
cuts of carefully sourced fish or meat. The or buying services with them here rather than
homemade bread is a delight. Degustation changing at official rates. There are various free
menus (AR$680 to AR$900) showcase great wi-fi zones around town.
culinary ability: leave room for dessert. Hospital (% 03757-420288; cnr Av Victoria
Aguirre & Ushuaia)
La Rueda ARGENTINE $$$ Municipal Tourist Office (% 03757-423951;
(%03757-422531; www.larueda1975.com; Av Cór- www.iguazuturismo.gob.ar; Av Victoria Aguirre
doba 28; mains AR$135-205; h5:30pm-midnight 337; h 8am-2pm & 4-9pm)
Mon-Tue, noon-midnight Wed-Sun; W) A main- Paraguayan Consulate (% 03757-424-230;
stay of upmarket eating in Puerto Iguazú, http://paraguay.int.ar; P Moreno 236; h7am-
this culinary heavyweight still packs a 3pm) Paraguayan visas cost US$65 for most
punch. The salads are imaginative and de- but US$135 for Australians at the time of
licious, as are the imaginative river-fish research. Visa processing takes three hours,
(mostly pacú and surubí) creations. Meat and you’ll need your passport, two photos and
I g ua zú Fa ll s & th e N o rth e as t PDI guruieanrzktiúonFgI ag&lulaNsziúgh t l if e with a variety of sauce options is reliably a copy of your credit card.
good; the homemade pasta is cheaper but Provincial Tourist Office (% 03757-420800;
doesn’t disappoint. Service is good but slow. www.turismo.misiones.gov.ar; Av Victoria Agu-
The wine list has a high flagfall. irre 311; h 8am-9pm) The most helpful office.

Aqva ARGENTINE $$$ 88 Getting There & Away
(%03757-422064; www.aqvarestaurant.com; cnr
Av Córdoba & Thays; mains AR$165-230; hnoon- Aerolíneas Argentinas (% 03757-420168;
11:30pm; W) Solicitous service and plenty of www.aerolineas.com.ar; Av Victoria Aguirre
flavor keep this split-level corner bungalow 295; h 8am-noon & 3-7pm Mon-Fri, 8am-1pm
filled with the buzz of contented diners. The Sat) flies from Iguazú to both Buenos Aires
quality of the meat is excellent, and there’s airports, Mendoza via Córdoba or Rosario,
also an ample river fish selection, though Salta and El Calafate (via BA). LAN (www.lan.
the salmon is better. Starters offer plenty of com) also flies the Buenos Aires route.
variety, from lamb carpaccio to a tasty sam-
pler plate of local specialties. The bus terminal (cnr Avs Córdoba & Mi-
siones) has departures for all over the country.
6 Drinking & Nightlife
There are Brazilian domestic services across
Tourism and Brazilians from Foz make Puer- the border in Foz do Iguaçu. Some Brazilian
to Iguazú’s nightlife lively. Action centers on buses leave from Puerto Iguazú or offer a free
Avenida Brasil, where a string of bars attract taxi to connect.
evening drinkers.
Buses from Puerto Iguazú

oVinosophie WINE BAR DESTINATION COST (AR$) TIME (HR)
Buenos Aires 1212 17-19
(Av Brasil 136; h5pm-1am; W) Attentive service Córdoba 1306 22
and a prime position right in the middle of Corrientes 527 9-10
the short Iguazú ‘strip’ make this a great Posadas 258 4½-6
place to kick off the evening. Wine by the Resistencia 542 10-11
glass isn’t cheap, but is well served in the el- San Ignacio 140-180 4-5
egant interior or at spacious outdoor tables.
A thoughtful menu of snacks and inventive
fuller meals (AR$120 to AR$170) make it a 88 Getting Around
sound all-round choice.
Four Tourist Travel (% 03757-420681, 03757-
Cuba Libre CLUB 422962) runs an airport shuttle for AR$90 per
person that meets most flights; from town,
(www.facebook.com/cuba.megadisco; cnr Av Brasil it needs to be booked in advance. A remise
& Paraguay; h11pm-late Wed-Sun) This unsubtle costs AR$250 from the airport, AR$200 to the
but fun nightclub just off the Avenida Brasil airport, which is 25km from town.
strip fills up with Brazilians looking for a big
night out on the weak peso. The dance floor Frequent buses cross to Foz do Iguaçu, Brazil
fills late but fast. (AR$20 or R$4, 35 minutes, hourly 6:30am
to 6:30pm), and to Ciudad del Este, Paraguay

203

(AR$30, one hour, seven daily 6:50am to oPaseo Inferior WATERFALL
5:45pm), from the local side of the bus terminal.
There are also buses direct to the Brazilian side This circuit (1400m) descends to the river
of the Iguazú falls (AR$80 return, hourly 8:30am (most is wheelchair accessible), passing de-
to 2:30pm, last return 5pm). lightfully close to falls on the way. At the end
of the path prepare for a drenching at the
A taxi to Foz costs around AR$200; to the Bra- hands of Salto Bossetti if you’re game. Just
zilian side of the Iguazú falls it’s AR$450 return. short of here, a free launch makes the short
Avoid the remise office at the bus terminal: it’s crossing to Isla San Martín. At the same
more expensive than others. Always negotiate. junction you can buy tickets for the popular
We particularly like the taxi stop on Córdoba op- boat rides under the falls.
posite El Mensú, which has some knowledgeable
multilingual drivers and metered cabs. Isla San Martín ISLAND

Local buses cost AR$7 and are useful for From the end of the Paseo Inferior, a free
reaching hotels located along the falls road, or launch takes you across to this island with
the triple frontier marker. a trail of its own that gives the closest look
at several falls, including Salto San Martín,
Jungle Bike (%03757-423720; www.jungle a huge, furious cauldron of water. It’s pos-
bike.com.ar; Av Misiones 44; bike hire per hr/­ sible to picnic and swim on the lee side of
day AR$40/1­ 50; h8am-8:30pm) Near the bus the island, but don’t venture too far off the I g ua zú Fa ll s & th e N o rth e as t IPSgaiugrahqztusúe FNaalcliso na l I guaz ú
terminal; offers bikes for hire, as well as guided beach. When the water is high – and this is
excursions. Mountain bikes available for AR$250 the case more often than not – island access
per day. is shut off.

Parque Nacional Iguazú oPaseo Superior WATERFALL

% 03757 The Paseo Superior (1750m) is entirely level
(and wheelchair accessible) and gives good
On the Argentine side of the marvelous views of the tops of several cascades and
Iguazú Falls, this park (%03757-491469; www. across to more. A recently constructed final
iguazuargentina.com; adult foreigners/Mercosur/ section crosses a large swathe of the Iguazú
Argentines A$260/200/160, child A$65/50/40, river, ending above the powerful Salto San
parking AR$70; h8am-6pm) has plenty to offer, Martín before wending its way back across
and involves a fair amount of walking. river islands.

The spread-out complex at the entrance oGarganta del Diablo WATERFALL
has various amenities, including lockers
(AR$50), an ATM – you have to pay in cash A 1.1km walkway across the placid Río Iguazú
in pesos – and a restaurant. There’s also an leads to one of the planet’s most spectacular
exhibition, Yvyrá-retã, with a display on the sights, the ‘Devil’s Throat.’ The lookout plat-
park and Guaraní life essentially aimed at form is perched right over this amazingly
school groups. The complex ends at a train powerful, concentrated torrent of water, a
station, from which a train runs every half- deafening cascade plunging to an invisible
hour to the Cataratas train station, where destination; vapors soaking the viewer blur
the waterfall walks begin, and to the Gar- the base of the falls and rise in a smoke-like
ganta del Diablo. You may prefer to walk: it’s plume that can be seen several kilometers
only 650m along the Sendero Verde path to away. It’s a place of majesty and awe, and
the Cataratas station, and a further 2.3km should be left until the end of your visit.
to the Garganta, and you may well see capu- From Cataratas train station, train it or
chin monkeys along the way. walk the 2.3km to the Garganta del Diablo
stop. The last train to the Garganta leaves at
There’s enough at the park to detain you 4pm, and we recommend taking it, as it’ll be
for a couple of days; admission is reduced by a somewhat less crowded experience. If you
50% if you visit the park again the following walk, you’ll see quite a lot of wildlife around
day. Get your ticket stamped when leaving this time of day, too. Another option is to vis-
on the first day to get the discount. it at lunchtime, as most organized tours stop
to eat for an hour around 1:30pm.
1 Sights
2 Activities
It really is worth getting here by 9am: the
gangways are narrow and getting stuck in a Relatively few visitors venture beyond the
conga line of tour groups in searing heat and immediate falls area to appreciate the park’s
humidity takes the edge off the experience. forest scenery and wildlife, but it’s well
Three circuits provide the viewing via a series
of trails, bridges and pasarelas (catwalks).

204

MISIONES JUNGLE WITHOUT THE CROWDS

The Iguazú jungle is a fabulous habitat of birds, plants, insects and mammals, but
mass tourism at the falls means you’re unlikely to see as much wildlife as you might
wish. One option for seeing more is to head east to the other end of the park. Around
the mate-growing town of Andresito are several lodges, including excellent Surucuá
(%0376-15-437-1046; www.surucua.com; Andresito; s/d incl transfers & full board US$172/276,

2-days US$310/496; Ws) S. Run by a welcoming young Misiones couple, this is right

in the jungle. Comfortable rustic accommodations and delicious home-cooked meals
featuring local ingredients are supplemented by activities including jungle walks and
memorable kayak trips among river islands. It’s a bird-watcher’s paradise, with over 200
species recorded including trogons, toucans, hummingbirds and manakins. Relaxation
is guaranteed with a swimming pool and no mobile coverage, though there is wi-fi.
Multinight stays are cheaper. You will be picked up from Andresito, served by four daily
buses from Puerto Iguazú (AR$100, 2½ hours).

I g ua zú Fa ll s & th e N o rth e as t TPI goauruaqrzusúe FNaalcliso na l I guaz ú worth doing. On the falls trails you’ll see that takes you right under one of the water-
large lizards, coatis, monkeys and birds, but falls for a high-adrenalin soaking (AR$350).
you’ll see much more on one of the few trails The Gran Aventura combines this with a jun-
through the dense forest. gle drive (AR$650), while the Paseo Ecológico
(AR$200) is a wildlife-oriented tour in inflat-
Sendero Macuco FISHING able boats upstream from the falls.

This jungle trail leads through dense forest to
a nearly hidden waterfall, Salto Arrechea. The
Full Moon Walks WALKING TOUR

first 3km to the top of the waterfall is almost (%03757-491469; www.iguazuargentina.com/en/
completely level, but there is a steep, muddy luna-llena) For five consecutive nights per
drop to the base of the falls and beyond to month, these guided walks visit the Gargan-
the Río Iguaçu, about 650m in all. Figure on ta del Diablo. There are three departures
about 1¼ hours each way from the trailhead. nightly. The first, at 8pm, offers the specta-
You can swim at the waterfall. Early morn- cle of the inflated rising moon; the last, at
ing is best, with better opportunities to see 9:30pm, sees the falls better illuminated.
wildlife. Last entry is at 3pm. There’s a map- Don’t expect wildlife. The price (AR$500) in-
guide available at the information desks. cludes admission and a drink; dinner is ex-
tra (AR$200). Book in advance as numbers
T Tours are limited. Extra buses from Puerto Iguazú
cater for moonwalkers.
Safaris Rainforest JUNGLE TOUR

(%03757-491074; www.rainforest.iguazuargentina. 4 Sleeping & Eating
com) Using knowledgeable guides, this is
the best option for appreciating Parque There’s one hotel within Parque Nacional
Nacional Iguazú’s flora and fauna. It offers Iguazú. Numerous snack bars offer predicta-
combined driving-walking excursions: the bly overpriced fare. The food is really awful;
Safari a la Cascada takes you to the Arrechea bring a (coati-proof) picnic, eat at one of two
waterfall (AR$380, 90 minutes); better is buffet restaurants or lunch at the Sheraton.
the Safari en la Selva (AR$450, two hours), a
trip in a less-touristed part of the park that Sheraton Iguazú HOTEL $$$
(%03757-491800; www.sheraton.com/iguazu;
includes explanations of Guaraní culture. stand­ ard r with forest/falls view from US$330/390;
Groups are small and you don’t need the
falls admission ticket; morning departures aiWs) With a privileged position within
Parque Nacional Iguazú itself and looking
can include hotel pickup, and afternoon de- right upriver to the Garganta del Diablo, this
parture includes a transfer back to Puerto
Iguazú. Best to book in advance by phone, hotel has spacious rooms with balconies, all
recently renovated. The jungle-side view is
online or at information booths at the falls. pretty too. There’s a good outdoor pool area,

Iguazú Jungle Explorer BOAT TOUR as well as an indoor pool and spa. These rates
reflect online reality: rack tariffs are double.
(%03757-421696; www.iguazujungle.com) Offers The restaurant has a limited selection
three combinable tours: most popular is the
short boat trip leaving from the Paseo Inferior (mains AR$320 to AR$390). In-room wi-fi

205

costs extra. There’s no legal park access after Resistencia
hours. You have to pay one park entrance fee
per stay. % 0362 / POP 385,700

La Selva BUFFET $$ This baking-hot provincial capital is perched
(www.iguazuargentina.com; buffetAR$260; h11am- on the edge of the barely populated Chaco,
3:30pm) During your visit, this restaurant, northern Argentina’s ‘outback’. It isn’t the
close to the Parque Nacional Iguazú’s main most likely candidate for the garland of
entrance, will get talked up so much you’ll artistic center of the north, yet its streets
fear the worst, but it’s actually OK, with a buf- are studded with several hundred sculp-
fet of hot and cold dishes, and extra-cost par­ tures and there’s a strong boho-cultural
rillada. It’s well overpriced but information streak that represents a complete contrast
kiosks give out vouchers offering a substan- to the tough cattle-and-scrub solitudes that
tial (think 40%) discount, so head there first. charac­terize the province.

Fortín BUFFET $$ 1 Sights
(www.fortincataratas.com; all-you-can-eat meals
AR$250; h10am-4pm) Well located near the At last count, more than 600 sculptures
Paseos Inferior and Superior falls walkways, graced the city, a number that increases I g ua zú Fa ll s & th e N o rth e as t IGgerutaatnziúCnghFaaTclholesr e & Away
this offers a mediocre and overpriced buffet with every Bienal. The streets are packed
spread with parrilla choices. Bargain hard with them, especially around the plaza and
for a better deal. A beer on the deck is a de- north up Avenida Sarmiento. Every Bienal, a
cent alternative. brochure is printed with a sculpture walking
tour around the city. Locals can buy pieces
88 Getting There & Away at a symbolic cost, but they have to display
them streetside.
Parque Nacional Iguazú is 20km southeast
of Puerto Iguazú. From Puerto Iguazú’s bus oMusEUM GALLERY
terminal, buses leave every 20 minutes for the
park (AR$50, 40 minutes) between 7:20am and (www.bienaldelchaco.com; Av de los Inmigrantes
7:20pm, with return trips between 7:50am and 1001; h9:30am-1:30pm & 4-8pm Mon-Sat) F
8pm. The buses make flag stops along the road. The headquarters of the sculpture Bienal
A taxi from town to the park entrance is AR$250 and the venue for it, this exhibition room
(AR$400 return). and grounds house many of the most im-
pressive pieces from past festivals. It’s well
worth a visit. It also distributes brochures in
English and Spanish of sculptural walking
tours in town. The avenue is a northward
Gran Chaco continuation of Wilde. If going by taxi, men-
tion the adjacent Domo del Centenario.
The Gran Chaco is a vast alluvial lowland,
stretching north from Santa Fe and Cór­ Museo del Hombre Chaqueño MUSEUM
doba provinces, across the entirety of Chaco
and Formosa, and into Paraguay, Bolivia (http://museohombrechaco.blogspot.com; JB Justo
and Brazil. The western side, known as the 280; h8am-1pm & 3-8:30pm Mon-Fri) F This
Chaco Seco (Dry Chaco), has been dubbed small but excellent museum is run by en-
the Impenetrable, due to its severe lack of thusiastic staff (some English spoken) who
water across an endless plain of thorn scrub. talk you through displays covering the three
The eastern side is attractively fertile, and main pillars of Chaco population: indige-
an important wildlife habitat. nous inhabitants (there are some excellent
ceramics and Toba musical instruments
Deforestation continues apace here, with here); criollos who resulted from interbreed-
vast areas being cleared to plant soya, of ing between the European arrivals and the
which Argentina is now one of the world’s local populations; and ‘gringos’, the wave of
major producers. This has seriously affected mostly European immigration from the late
Toba tribes, whose traditional environment 19th century onwards. Best is the mythology
is being destroyed. room upstairs, where you’ll get to meet var-
ious quirky characters from Chaco popular
Crossing the Gran Chaco from Formosa religion.
to Salta along the northern RN81 is an inter-
esting option on mostly decent paved road. El Fogón de los Arrieros CULTURAL CENTER

Protests from indigenous and other com- (www.fogondelosarrieros.com.ar; Brown 350; ad-
munity groups often temporarily close roads mission AR$10; h8am-noon & 4-7pm Mon-Fri)
in the Chaco – be patient and chat to the
protesters while you wait.

206 z Festivals & Events
Founded in 1943, this is a cultural center
and gallery that for decades has been the Bienal de Escultura SCULPTURE
driving force behind Resistencia’s artistic
commitment. It’s famous for its eclectic (www.bienaldelchaco.com) During the third
collection of objets d’art from around the week of July in even years, this brings 10 re-
Chaco and Argentina. The museum also fea- nowned Argentine and international sculp-
tures the wood carvings of local artist and tors to Resistencia. Arranging themselves
cultural activist Juan de Dios Mena. Check around the fountain at MusEUM, they have
out the irreverent epitaphs to dead patrons seven days to complete a sculpture un-
in the memorial garden; it’s called ‘Colonia der the public gaze. The medium changes
Sálsipuedes’ (leave if you can). every time.

Resistencia e# 0 400 m
A 0 0.2 miles
B C D

D D1DonovaBnelgraEncoheverría Cangallo WildePosadas(›##–3Ad.PM8velk(eAa6nmJlzvdkuae)omlazJi9aoru)AjuvySMaonrtSeiAaanvglotoCadaesltEeslltiReÿ#roocCa4eÿ#3r2Pv5aenrdRótCeenBFesoMrmuarBanrsykii˜#useloATinsMevne›#esRTtrseomdtdsoetroiAingÿ#luvAaeemlzC5areBPoMge›#uhrñu#ïrisansieoeESsdPnU000000aeltEtnMaeoPt000000sMzaAs(lparaF1000000taaekuz2yOrñmao5oba)lIil2gliaaCâ#dò#oorriTeÿ#6noEtuenJstPBr#úrierJsouRü#t9A7sívovOtoisRnfBifcvrioaciadwealAnHvLv#ïiaYa1#þ9rR0id#úg1iooe#æjyaAJ8eyunalicoucADhvooSPnaaBraavogesudBCcaoróeayPrldlgoarbzaaanoGüeAvmeSsarmiMeiRtnerteomPeudeiyoLrisrniedederósEnscalada1
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I g ua zú Fa ll s & th e N o rth e as t GFI gerusaatnzi vúCahFlaascl&ol sE v e n t s2 VediaNecochea Pellegrini 3
3 y Planes 4
4
López

French
Italia

Av

Santa María de Oro Av Alberdi Paz HAavchLearsosSHAarernbaoLsyorBelnAavznocSSoaanrsfiMAeavlrdtVíJnoCsoléóHnernánMdoenzteagudo

JM
Peña

RS

D Frondizi

Los
ABCD

Resistencia ú Eating
7 Coco's Resto............................................C2
æ Sights 8 Juan Segundo.......................................... D1
1 El Fogón de los Arrieros.........................D3
2 Museo del Hombre Chaqueño.............. C3

ÿ Sleeping û Drinking & Nightlife
3 Amerian Hotel Casino Gala................... B2 9 El Viejo Café .............................................C2
4 Hotel Alfil.................................................. A3
5 Hotel Colón.............................................. B2 þ Shopping
6 Niyat Urban Hotel................................... C2 10 Fundación Chaco Artesanal...................C2

4 Sleeping 207
for kids but not many cheap choices on the
Hotel Colón HOTEL $ short wine list.

(%0362-442-2861; www.colonhotelyapart.com; No Me Olvides ARGENTINE, BAR $$
Santa María de Oro 143; s/d/apt US$44/60/68; a
iW) Art deco fans mustn’t miss this 1920s (Laprida 198; mains AR$90-175; h6am-3am; W)
Huge windows and a high-ceilinged interi-
classic, just south of the plaza. It’s an amaz- or make this popular corner spot feel much
ingly large and characterful building with
enticingly curious period features. Refur- larger than it is. Verve and color are added
by vibrant paintings, paper lampshades and
bished rooms are great; make sure you get arty touches. As the heroic opening hours
one, as there are some far sketchier cham-
bers with foam mattresses and dilapidated suggest, it does everything from breakfasts
to late-night cocktails. The menu is a touch
bathrooms. Good-value apartments are overpriced but the pasta, ciabattas and lomi­
available.
tos are really excellent.

Hotel Alfil HOTEL $ Coco’s Resto ARGENTINE $$
(%0362-442-0882; Santa María de Oro 495; s/d
US$25/35; aW) A few blocks south of Pla- (Av Sarmiento 266; mains AR$110-160; hnoon-
2:30pm & 8:30pm-midnight Mon-Sat, noon-2:30pm
za 25 de Mayo, the old-fashioned Alfil is a Sun; W) Stylishly occupying two front rooms
reasonable budget choice. Interior rooms I g ua zú Fa ll s & th e N o rth e as t IGSglrueaaenzpiúCnhFgaacl ol s
are dark but worthwhile if the significant of a house, this intimate, well-decorated res-
taurant is popular with suited diners from
street noise in the exterior rooms (with their the nearby state parliament. A wide-ranging
strangely inaccessible balconies) will bother
you. Air-con is US$2 extra, but it’s a decent menu of pastas, meats soused in various
sauces, river fish and a long wine list make
deal despite the lack of breakfast. this a pleasant Chaco choice.

6oAmerian Hotel Casino Gala HOTEL $$ Drinking & Nightlife

(%0362-445-2400; www.hotelcasinogala.com.ar;
Perón 330; s/d US$113/125; aiWs) The El Viejo Café CAFE
city’s smartest choice, with various grades
of room and slick service. Rooms are ex- (Pellegrini 109; h6am-3am; W) In an elegant
cellent for these rates: very spacious, at- old edifice, with an eclectically decorated
tractively stepped and with a dark, elegant, interior, this is a fine choice any time of day.
vaguely Asian feel to the decor. As well as Its terrace is sweet for a sundowner, and it
slot machines, there’s a sauna, gym and self-­ gets lively later on weekends, when there’s
contained spa complex. The huge outdoor usually live music. Solid if unspectacular
pool with bar is a highlight. meals (mains AR$65 to AR$110) are also
available

Niyat Urban Hotel HOTEL $$ 7 Shopping
(%0362-444-8451; www.niyaturban.com.ar; Yri-
goyen 83; s/d US$73/82; aiW) Shiny and There’s a selection of artesanía stalls on the
confident, this plaza-side hotel offers excel- southern side of Plaza 25 de Mayo.

lent service and plenty of value for gleam- Fundación Chaco Artesanal HANDICRAFTS
ing but very small modern rooms, which ([email protected]; Pellegrini
boast great bathrooms, comfy beds and big
flatscreens. Some overlook the plaza. There’s 272; h9am-12:30pm & 4:30-7:30pm Mon-Fri) S
also a gym with vistas and a small spa com- Selection of indigenous crafts as well as CDs
plex with saunas and outdoor Jacuzzi. from the Toba choir. Head upstairs in the
Centro Cultural Leopoldo Marechal.

5 Eating 88 Information

Juan Segundo ARGENTINE $$ Hospital Perrando (% 0362-444-2399; Av 9
(Av Paraguay 24; mains AR$105-180; hnoon- de Julio 1100)
2pm daily, plus 9pm-12:30am Tue-Sat; W) With Provincial Tourist Office (% 0362-445-
a casually elegant chessboard-tiled inte- 3098; www.chaco.travel; López y Planes 185;
rior and appealing outdoor tables in an h7:30am-8pm) This regional tourist office
upmarket zone of the city, Juan Segundo has reasonably up-to-date information on the
offers decent parrilla choices and salads, further-flung parts of the Chaco.
and even better fish and meat dishes with Terminal Tourist Office (www.chaco.travel;
well-prepared sauces. There’s a play area h7am-8pm Mon-Fri Sat, 7am-9:30am &

208 Buses from Resistencia
6-8:30pm Sat & Sun) In the bus terminal.
There’s a municipal office opposite it. DESTINATION COST (AR$) TIME (HR)
Tourist Office (% 0362-445-8289; Roca 20; Asunción (Paraguay) 203 6
h7am-noon & 2:30-8pm) On the southern side Buenos Aires 864 13-14
of Plaza 25 de Mayo. Córdoba 833 10-14
Posadas 287 4½-5
88 Getting There & Away Puerto Iguazú 542 10-11
Salta 719 12-13
Aerolíneas Argentinas (% 0362-444-5551; Santiago del Estero 586 8½-9½
www.aerolineas.com.ar; Justo 184; h 8am- Tucumán 675-735 11-12
12:30pm & 4:30-8pm Mon-Fri, 8am-noon Sat)
I g ua zú Fa ll s & th e N o rth e as t IGgerutaatnziúCnghFaaTclholesr e & Awayflies to Buenos Aires daily.88 Getting Around

Resistencia’s bus terminal (% 0362-446- Aeropuerto San Martín is 6km south of town on
1098; cnr MacLean & Islas Malvinas), 4km RN11; a remise costs around AR$80.
southwest of the center, serves destinations in
all directions. Buses zip between Corrientes and The bus terminal is a AR$80 taxi from the
Resistencia (from AR$25, 40 minutes) frequent- center, or you can take bus 3, 9 or 110 from
ly. You can also catch a bus (AR$7) to Corrientes
from the city center, on Av Alberdi just south
of Plaza 25 de Mayo. Faster are shared taxis
(Frondizi 416; h24hr) (AR$25, 30 minutes).

INDIGENOUS GROUPS OF THE GRAN CHACO

With some 50,000 members, the Toba of the Gran Chaco are one of Argentina’s largest
indigenous groups, but protests highlight the stark reality that many communities suf-
fer from abandoned government facilities and desperate poverty. Few Argentines have
much idea about the struggles of this pueblo olvidado (forgotten people).

In Resistencia, the Toba live in barrios (neighborhoods) that are separated from the
rest of the city. But venturing further into the Chaco, it’s easy to find Toba asentamientos
(settlements). Except for the occasional government-built health center, nearly all build-
ings are made of adobe, with dirt floors and thatched or corrugated metal roofs.

The Toba refer to themselves as Komlek (Qom-lik) and speak a dialect of the Guay-
curú linguistic group, known locally as Qom. They have a rich musical tradition (the Coro
Toba Chelaalapi, a Toba choir, had World Heritage designation). Along with basketry and
ceramics, the Toba are known for the n’viké, their version of the fiddle, which they make
out of a gas can. Though its name signifies the noise of a jaguar sharpening its claws on
tree bark, it sounds very melodic.

The region’s most numerous indigenous group (over 60,000) is the Wichí, who re-
main extremely isolated (they live nearly 700km from Resistencia, in the far northwest
of Chaco province and in Formosa and Salta provinces) and are the most traditional.
They still obtain much of their food through hunting, gathering and fishing. The Wichí are
known for their wild honey and their beautiful yica bags, which they weave with fibers
from the chaguar plant, a bromeliad native to the dry Chaco.

The Mocoví are the Gran Chaco’s third-largest indigenous group, with a population
of 17,000, concentrated primarily in southern Chaco province and northern Santa Fe.
Until the arrival of Europeans, the Mocoví sustained themselves primarily through
hunting and gathering, but today they rely mostly on farming and seasonal work.
They are famous for their burnished pottery, the most developed of indigenous Chaco
ceramics.

For more information, stop by Resistencia’s Centro Cultural Leopoldo Marechal
(%0362-445-2738; Pellegrini 272; h9am-2pm & 4:30-7:30pm Mon-Fri), which has crafts
exhibits and a shop sponsored by the Fundación Chaco Artesanal, and the same city’s
Museo del Hombre Chaqueño. You can also journey into the Impenetrable to visit the
Toba or Wichí. Their communities are welcoming; a visit in late afternoon, when often
the whole village joins in a communal game of volleyball or soccer, is a great time to
meet folk.

209

PENETRATING ‘EL IMPENETRABLE’

If you have a yen to get off the beaten track, the more remote areas of the Chaco are
for you. From Castelli, you can head west along ripio (gravel) roads to remote Fuerte
Esperanza (buses and shared remises run this route), which has two nature reserves
in its vicinity – Reserva Provincial Fuerte Esperanza and Reserva Natural Loro
Hablador. Both conserve typical dry Chaco environments, with algarrobo and quebra-
cho trees, armadillos, peccaries and many bird species. Loro Hablador, 40km from
Fuerte Esperanza, has more vegetation, a good campground and short walking trails. It
adjoins similar Parque Nacional Copo in Santiago del Estero province. Fuerte Espe-
ranza has simple hospedajes (guesthouses). Further north, Misión Nueva Pompeya
was founded in 1899 by Franciscans who established a mission station for Matacos in
tough conditions. The main building, with its square-towered church, is a surprising sight
in such a remote location. There are cheap lodgings in town.

One of the best ways to visit is via a tour from Castelli. Be warned, summer tempera-
tures can be uncomfortably warm out here.

Santa María de Oro near Perón. Don’t walk it: less than a kilometer from its entrance, this I g ua zú Fa ll s & th e N o rth e as t AGI gcrutaainzv iúCthiFeaascl ol s
travelers have reported muggings. is a typical little Chaco ranch with a double
and quadruple room with a kitchen. There’s
A two-ride city bus ticket costs AR$15 from also a small pool.
the main shop in the terminal, or at Roca 35 on
the plaza. 88 Getting There & Away

Parque Nacional Chaco La Estrella runs five buses daily from Resistencia
(AR$57, 2½ hours) to Capitán Solari, from where
Preserving several diverse ecosystems that the park is 5.5km away. It’s a pleasant walk, but
reflect subtle differences in relief, soils and the park office (www.parquesnacionales.gob.
rainfall, this very accessible park (%03725- ar; cnr Fernández & Galarza; h 9am-3pm) may
499161; www.parquesnacionales.gob.ar) F pro- help. Failing that, take a remise (AR$100): a list
tects 150 sq km of the humid eastern Chaco. of phone numbers is on the door of the tourist
It is 115km northwest of Resistencia via RN16 office (Fernández & plaza; h 8:30am-noon &
and RP9. The access town is Capitán Solari. 2:30-6pm Mon-Fri, 9am-noon & 3-6pm Sat &
Sun) on the square.
2 Activities
The road may be impassable after rain.
Hiking and bird-watching are the principal
activities here. From the main campground, Roque Sáenz Peña
where there’s a small exhibition, an easy
2km circular trail takes you across a rick- % 0364 / POP 96,900
ety bridge and through the forest for good
bird-watching. A 5km walk, cycle or drive Something of a frontier town, thriving Pres-
takes you to a short trail leading to view- idencia Roque Sáenz Peña is well out in the
points over lakes. A longer 12km road, suita- Chaco, and a gateway to the ‘Impenetrable’
ble for cars, bikes and horses, heads south to beyond. It’s known for its thermal baths, for-
the Panza de Cabra lake. tuitously discovered by drillers seeking po-
table water in 1937, and makes an appealing
Pack plenty of repellent for the voracious stop, with a rugged, friendly feel.
mosquitoes.
1 Sights & Activities
4 Sleeping & Eating
Complejo Ecológico Municipal ZOO
The campground has power, toilets, drink-
ing water and rental bikes. Vendors some- (adult/child AR$20/8, vehicles AR$20; h7:30am-
times appear at weekends, but best bring 6pm) At the junction of RN16 and RN95,
your own food. 4km east of downtown, the town’s spacious
zoo and botanical garden emphasizes birds
Hospedaje Los Quebrachos GUESTHOUSE $ and mammals found in the Chaco region,
(José Luis Ávalos; %03725-15-454532; s/d alongside a few lions, tigers, bears and a
US$15/23; as) On the way to the park, and baff­lingl­y large chicken pen.

210

I g ua zú Fa ll s & th e N o rth e as t IGSglrueaaenzpiúCnhFgaacl ol s NORTH TO FORMOSA AND PARAGUAY

Buses run from Resistencia to Asunción, Paraguay’s capital, crossing in Argentina’s far
north at Clorinda, a chaotic border town with little of interest beyond bustling markets.

A better stop is baking-hot Formosa, a medium-sized provincial capital two hours’
bus ride north of Resistencia. Hotels, restaurants and services can be found along Av 25
de Mayo, which links the sleepy plaza with the Río Paraguay waterfront – the best place
to stroll once the temperatures drop.

Laguna Oca offers good bird-watching 6km from town, but the rest of the province
has even more.

One good spot is Parque Nacional Río Pilcomayo (%03718-470-045; www.parques
nacionales.gob.ar; RN86; h8am-6pm), 126km northwest of Formosa and 55km west of
Clorinda. Daily buses connect these with Laguna Blanca, an easy-paced citrus town
where you’ll find inexpensive lodgings – Residencial Guaraní (%03718-470024; cnr San
Martín & Sargento Cabral; r per person US$18; a) is the standout – and remises (taxis) to
the national park. The park’s main feature is also called Laguna Blanca, where rangers
can take you out in boats to spot caiman.

Formosa province’s standout attraction is Bañado la Estrella (www.banadolaestrella.
org.ar). This stunning wetland area, a floodplain of the Río Pilcomayo, harbors an aston-
ishing range of birdlife, as well as alligators, capybaras, sizable serpents and beautiful
water plants. From the roads that cross this 200km-long finger-shaped area, it’s easy to
spot a huge variety of wildlife: pack binoculars.

The handiest town is Las Lomitas, 300 km west of Formosa on RN81 with regular bus
service (AR$197, 5½ to six hours). From here, paved RP28 heads north, cutting across
the wetlands via a causeway, starting 37km north of Las Lomitas and extending for some
15km. Las Lomitas has accommodations, including Hotel Eva (%03715-432092; hotel_
[email protected]; Av San Martín 250; r US$28-43; aiW), a friendly place whose dark
rooms don’t live up to the elegant stone-faced exterior. Upgrade to an intermediate room
for a better bed.

Complejo Termal Municipal SPA Rooms are indeed set around a lofty central
atrium and are sleek, minimalist and great
(%0364-443-3177; www.facebook.com/complejo value for its standard. There’s an enticing
termalsp; Brown 545; h7:30am-10pm) Roque’s pool area and the hotel has its own spa com-
famous thermal baths draw their saline plex and casino. Substantial discount for
water from 150m below ground. The com- paying cash.
plex, around since the 1930s, is now a top-
class facility, offering thermal baths (AR$81)
in individual rooms, saunas and Turkish 5 Eating
baths (AR$54), and a big pool with water
jets and a retractable roof (AR$81). Treat- oRaices PARRILLA $
(Parera 560; mains AR$60-105; h10:30am-3pm
ments on offer include kinesiology, massage & 7:30pm-1am Mon-Sat, 10:30am-3pm Sun) Con-
and aromatherapy.
vivial and welcoming, this neighborhood
4 Sleeping restaurant a few blocks north of the center
is worth the stroll. Check out its huge bar-
Hotel Presidente HOTEL $ becue before entering to enjoy really tasty
(%0364-442-4498; San Martín 771; s/d US$27/40;
aiW) Well-run and inexpensive, this is a vacío (flank steak), delicious chicken and
other staples.
pleasing budget place right in the heart of
town, with friendly staff and rooms with Ama’nalec ICE CREAM $
(Moreno 601; ice creams AR$20-60; h8am-
comfortable beds, fridge and hairdryer. 11:45pm; W) This busy corner place does

oAtrium Gualok HOTEL $$ tempting little pastries and very tasty ice
(%0364-442-0500; www.atriumgualok.com.ar;
San Martín 1198; s/d US$72/86; aiWs) Right cream, a godsend in Roque’s paralyzing
heat. It has some unusual flavors: figs in
next to the spa complex, this fine modern cognac is worth a lick.
hotel gives a feeling of space throughout.

211

88 Getting There & Away Diony’s ARGENTINE $
(Vázquez 543; mains AR$50-90; h8am-3pm &
The bus terminal (%0364-420280; Petris, btwn 8:30pm-1am; W) Alongside the square, this
Avellaneda & López) is seven blocks east of down­ spacious restaurant is set in the Club del
town. There are regular buses to Resistencia Progreso and is the town’s most reliable op-
(AR$102, two hours), and services running west to tion for standard but well-prepared Argen-
Salta, Tucumán, Santiago del Estero and Mendoza. tine fare. Prices are low and value is high,
with a nice line in omelets as starters, fol-
Juan José Castelli lowed by chicken, beef, pork or fish with a
wide variety of sauces.
% 0364 / POPULATION 27,200
88 Getting There & Away
A fairly prosperous agricultural service
center, Castelli is a green, fertile looking Castelli is served by four daily buses from Re-
place but gateway to the more arid Impen- sistencia (AR$171, five hours), and more regular
etrable wilderness to the west. With several services from Roque Sáenz Peña (AR$68, two
excellent accommodation choices, it makes hours).
a great base for exploring the Chaco.
I g ua zú Fa ll s & th e N o rth e as t GPI gaeurtaqtzuiúnegFNaTalhcleisroena&lAdwoayI gua ç u ( B razi l)
T Tours

oEcoTur Chaco DRIVING TOUR Parque Nacional do
Iguaçu (Brazil)
(Carlos Aníbal Schumann; %0364-447-1073; www.
ecoturchaco.com.ar; Av San Martín 500) Person- This Brazilian park (%3521-4400; www.cata
able Carlos is an enthusiastic Chaco expert ratasdoiguacu.com.br; adult foreigners/Mercosul/
and offers memorable 4WD tours that get Brazilians R$52.30/41.30/31.30, child R$8; h9am-
right into the heart of the Impenetrable 5pm) is entered via an enormous visitor
region, both geographically and culturally. center, with snack bar, ATMs and rip-off
The standout trip is a two-day affair that es- lockers (R$30), among other amenities.
chews roads in favor of tracks and visits in- Parking here costs R$19.
digenous communities, remote settlements,
reserves and national parks. Day-trips and Tickets can be purchased by card or a va-
excursions camping on ranches are also riety of currencies. All catering outlets take
possible. cards, so day-trippers won’t need to obtain
Brazilian currency. There are ATMs at the
4 Sleeping & Eating visitor center. Double-decker buses await
to take you into the park proper. Keep your
There are four good hotels in and around eyes peeled for animals. The last bus back
town, two out on or near the highway. from the falls is at 6:30pm.

Portal del Impenetrable HOTEL $
1(%0364-15-470-8848; www.hotelportaldelimpene Sights & Activities

trable.com; Ruta 9; s/d US$30/41; aiW) At the The double-decker bus into Parque Nacional
entrance to town, this spacious – almost too do Iguaçu makes two stops before the main
spacious – modern hotel offers interesting falls stop. These are trailheads for excur-
artworks, efficient service and capacious sions that cost extra. If you plan to do any
rooms. It’s a commodious Chaco base at of these, chat with one of the agents touting
half the price of many Argentine hotels of them around the park visitor center; they
this standard. An extra few pesos gets you can get you a discount. There are several
a superior room, with plasma screen and other combinations and boat trips available.
minibar. Some of these excursions need to be booked

Nuevo Hotel Florencia HOTEL $ a day before.
(%0364-447-1426; http://hotelflorencia.com.
ar; Av San Martín 870; s/d US$25/38; aiW) oCataratas do Iguaçu WATERFALL

The main waterfall observation trail pro-
Clean and welcoming, this is a value-for-­ vides unforgettable vistas. It is the third, and
pesos budget hotel on the main road in the principal, bus stop on the route that takes
heart of town. Rooms are simple but well- you into the national park. From here you
equipped, and have the sort of useful fea- walk 1.5km down a paved trail with brilliant
tures, like plenty of electrical sockets, that views of the falls on the Argentine side, the
many more illustrious places lack. There’s a jungle and the river below. Every twist re-
bit of echoing noise. veals a more splendid vista until the path

21 2 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd EDUCATION IMAGES/UIG/GETTY IMAGES ©

The Iguazú Falls

There are few more impressive sights
on the planet than this majestic array of
cascades on the border of Argentina and
Brazil. Set in luxurious tropical jungle, the
falls are accessible, and provide a primal
thrill that will never be forgotten.

Brazilian Side

Hit the Brazilian side (p211) first to
appreciate the wide panorama from its
short viewing path within a birdlife-rich
national park. Cascade after cascade is
revealed, picturesquely framed by tropical
vegetation before you end up below the
impressive Salto Floriano (p214).

Garganta del Diablo

The highlight of the falls is the ‘Devil’s
Throat.’ Stroll out over the placid
Iguazú river before gazing in awe as it
drops away beneath you in a display of
primitive sound and fury that leaves you
breathless (p203).

Argentine Side

Two spectacular walkways, one high, one
low, get you in close to torrents of water
of extraordinary power. Expect awesome
photos, expect to get wet, and expect to
be exhilarated (p203).

Boat Trips

Not wet enough yet? Then prepare to be
absolutely drenched. Zippy motorboats
take thrillseekers right in under one of
the biggest waterfalls on the Argentine
side (p204). More sedate kayaking and
rafting excursions are also available on
the Brazilian side (p214).

Jungle Trails

The waterfalls aren’t the only thing on
offer. National parks on both sides of
the river offer various easy-to-medium
trails through the jungle that give great
wildlife-watching opportunities (p204
and p214).

Clockwise from top left

1. Foz do Iguaçu (p215), Brazilian side 2. Rainforest
walkway, Iguazú Falls 3. Coatis

213 R.M. NUNES/SHUTTERSTOCK © ALEKSANDRA H. KOSSOWSKA/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

214

ENTERING BRAZIL

Many nationalities require visas to enter Brazil. At the time of writing, these included
citizens of the USA, Australia, Canada and Japan. EU citizens did not. Download the ap-
plication form at https://scedv.serpro.gov.br and take it to a Brazilian consulate. The one
in Puerto Iguazú (%03757-420192; Córdoba 278 ; visa fee Australia/Canada/Japan/USA/
other R$35/65/25/160/20; hvisas 8am-1:30pm Mon-Fri) will likely be cheaper than in your
home country. You’ll need a return ticket (from Argentina will do), photo and a bank or
credit card statement. If you get there early, it can usually be ready by the next working
day and same day may be possible.

That said, it is usually – but not always – possible to take a day trip by bus to the Bra-
zilian falls without a visa. You’ll have to catch the Foz do Iguaçu–bound bus, not the one
that goes direct to the Brazilian falls. Argentine officials will stamp you out; stay on the
bus when it passes Brazilian immigration and don’t blame us if you’re out of luck that
day. Taxi drivers can usually get you through without immigration formalities too. Bear in
mind that this isn’t officially sanctioned, so if you get caught, you may be fined.

I g ua zú Fa ll s & th e N o rth e as t PSI galueraeqzpuiúenFgNaa&lcliEsoatnianlgd o I gua ç u ( B razi l) ends right under majestic Salto Floriano, Macuco trail on the Argentine side. Second
which will give you a healthy sprinkling via stop on the park bus route.
the wind it generates.
Helisul SCENIC FLIGHTS
A catwalk leads out to a platform with
majestic views, with the Garganta del Di- (%045-3529-7474; www.helisul.com; Rodovia das
ablo close at hand, and a perspective down Cataratas, Km 16.5; flights R$308; h9am-5:30pm)
the river in the other direction. If the water’s By the park visitor center, this set-up runs
high, it’s unforgettable. 10-minute chopper jaunts over the Brazilian
side of the falls. Environmental impact is
From here, an elevator heads up to a view- questionable, but it’s undeniably exhilarat-
ing platform at the top of the falls at Porto ing. There are open panels in the windows
Canoas, the last bus stop. Porto Canoas has for photography.
boat excursions, a gift shop, a couple of
snack bars and a buffet restaurant. 4 Sleeping & Eating

Trilha do Poço Preto HIKING, BOAT oHotel das Cataratas HOTEL $$$

(%045-3529-9665; www.macucosafari.com.br; (%045-2102-7000; www.belmond.com; BR469,
adult/child R$278/139) This easy 9km trail
takes you on a guided journey through the Km32; r without/with view from R$1966/2317,
ste from R$2136; aiWsc) In the Par-
jungle on foot, by bike or vehicle. It ends que Nacional do Iguaçu near the falls, the
above the falls, where you can kayak then
take a boat cruise around river islands to location of this excellent hotel appeals
enormously, though only a few rooms have
Porto Canoas. You can also return via the Ba- falls views, and those only partial. It’s dec-
naneiras Trail. First stop on park bus route.
orated throughout in understated, elegant
Portuguese colonial style, with tiling in the
Bananeiras Trail WALKING TOUR bathrooms and dark wood in the bedrooms.

(%045-3529-9665; www.macucosafari.com.br; Public areas have cozy appeal, and the fine
adult/child incl boat ride R$/216/108) This is a
1.6km walk passing lagoons and observing pool area is surrounded by birdsong. Service
aquatic wildlife, which ends at a jetty where is excellent.
you can take boat rides or silent ‘floating’ After-hours falls access is a major perk.
excursions in kayaks down to Porto Canoas. Make sure you climb the belvedere for the
Second stop on the park bus route. view. Online rates are much better.

Macuco Safari BOAT TOUR Restaurante Porto Canoas BUFFET $$

(%045-3574-4244; www.macucosafari.com.br; (www.cataratasdoiguacu.com.br; buffet R$58;
adult/child R$179/89.50) This two-hour safari hnoon-4pm) Situated at the end of the main
includes a 3km trailer ride through the jun- trail at the Parque Nacional do Iguaçu, this
gle, a 600m walk to a small waterfall and restaurant has a long pleasant terrace over-
then a boat ride (half-price without this) to looking the river just before it descends
the falls for a soaking. Don’t confuse with into maelstrom – a great spot for a beer or

215

caipirinha – and an OK buffet lunch with destruction of rainforest and the displace-
plenty of salads and hot dishes. ment of 10,000 people. But it cleanly sup-
plies most of Paraguay’s energy needs, and
88 Getting There & Around 20% of Brazil’s.

From Foz, catch the 120 bus from the urban bus A variety of other attractions within the
terminal or stops along Av Juscelino Kubitschek; complex include a museum, wildlife park
the trip takes 30 to 40 minutes, stops at the air- and river beaches.
port and costs R$3, paid as you enter the terminal.
Parque das Aves ZOO
Taxis from Foz to the park entrance cost R$40
to R$50. Haggle. (www.parquedasaves.com.br; Av das Cataratas, Km
17.1; admission R$34; h8:30am-5pm) Near the
From Puerto Iguazú, there’s a direct bus to the Parque Nacional do Iguaçu entrance is this
Brazilian falls hourly (AR$80 return, 40 min- large bird park. It has a huge assortment of
utes), with departures from 8:30am to 2:30pm our feathered friends, mostly Brazilian, with
and returns from 10am to 5pm (Brazilian time). good information in English and Spanish.
This stops at Brazilian immigration (p214) Walk-through aviaries get you up close and
and collects passports. You can also take the personal with toucans, macaws and hum-
regular bus to Foz do Iguaçu (AR$20, hourly mingbirds.
6:30am to 6:30pm) and get off a couple of stops I g ua zú Fa ll s & th e N o rth e as t IFGgoeuztatdzioúngIFgaTulhaleçsrue (&B rAarzoiuln) d
after crossing the international bridge. Cross 4 Sleeping
the road, and wait for the Parque Nacional bus.
Repeat at the same stop on the way back. Normally you’ll get a rate up to 50% lower
than rack rates. Don’t be afraid to ask for a
Foz do Iguaçu (Brazil) discount: it’s expected.

% 045 / POP 263,500 Pousada Sonho Meu GUESTHOUSE $
(%045-3573-5764; www.pousadasonhomeufoz.
Hilly Foz is basecamp for the Brazilian side com.br; Mem de Sá 267; s/d R$160/210;
of the Iguazú falls, and gives you a chance aiWs) This is a delightful oasis bare-
to get a feel for a Brazilian town. It’s much ly 50m from the urban bus terminal.
bigger and more cosmopolitan than Puerto Rooms are simply decorated with bamboo;
Iguazú, and has a keep-it-real feel that its Ar- there’s a standout pool (complete with a
gentine counterpart lacks. mini cata­rata!), breakfast area and out-

88 Orientation door guest kitchen, and a warm welcome
throughout. Cash only. Prices can be half
Foz is at the confluence of the rivers Iguaçu those indicated.
(Iguazú) and Paraná; international bridges con-
nect it to Puerto Iguazú, Argentina and Ciudad oTetris Container Hostel HOSTEL $
del Este, Paraguay. Av das Cataratas leads 20km (%045-3132-0019; www.tetrishostel.com.br; Av
to the Brazilian side of the Iguazú falls, passing das Cataratas 639; dm R$35-40, d from R$160;
the Argentina bridge on the way. aiWs) S Brazil’s coolest hostel is craft-

1 Sights ed from 15 shipping containers – even the
pool is a water-filled shipping container! –
Itaipu DAM and makes full use of other industrial by-

(%0800-645-4645; www.turismoitaipu.com.br; products as well, like sinks made from oil
Tancredo Neves 6702; panoramic/special tour
R$27/68; hregular tour hourly 8am-4pm) This drums. Colorful bathrooms brighten the
dorms (a four-bed female plus 10- and 12-
bi-national dam is the world’s second-l­argest bed mixed) and the patio/bar area is tops.
hydroelectric power station and, at some
8km long and 200m high, is a memorable From 7pm to 10pm there’s music and a great
local scene.
sight, especially when a vast torrent of over-
flow water cascades down the spillway.
The visitor center, 12km north of Foz, has
regular tours and the more detailed circuito CHANGING THE CLOCKS
especial (minimum age 14), taking you into
the power plant itself. From mid-October to mid-February,
Buses (R$3, 30 minutes) head here southern Brazil changes the clocks for
quarter-h­ ourly from the urban bus terminal. summer, putting it an hour ahead of
The project was controversial: it plunged Argentina, which doesn’t observe day-
Brazil into debt and necessitated large-scale light saving time.

216

Foz do Iguaçu (Brazil) e# 0 400 m
AB 0 0.2 miles
C D
Paraguay
Buses to D (2km)
Argentina
Av Beira Rio R Duarte da Costa Long–distance

1 R Martins Pena Terminal Bus Terminal 1
Tourist (1.5km)
R Mem5dÿ#e Sá ›# Office D
Bus Terminal
Urban ›##ï ›# Buses to
(TTU) Paraguay

4 ÿ# ú#9 Av República Argentina
ÿ# 2

2 #ú 8 Av Juscelino Kubitschek R Rebouças 2

R Naipi R Tarobá R Xavier da Silva R Patrulheiro Vemanto

I g ua zú Fa ll s & th e N o rth e as t FISgoluezaedzpoiúnIFggaulalçsu ( B razi l) R Rui Barbosa R Marechal Deodoro da Fonseca R Pres Castelo Branco Av Paraná
R Santos Dumont
Ø#1 RdBeaGrtuoslmomãoeuRío Paraná 3
3 R Jorge Sanwais

R Quintino BocaiuvaAv Brasil ÿ#3
R Almirante Barroso
Pç Rio R Edmundo de Barros
Branco R Marechal Floriano Peixoto ú# 7
4 4

R Barão do Rio Branco ò#

Av Jorge Schimmelpfeng

R Dom Pedro II Rio M Boicy
R Benjamin Constant
Av General Meira
R Berlamindo de Mendonça DAv das Cataratas 6 5
R Antônio Raposo
Tourist Office (1.75km); ÿ#
5

Parque Nacional do
Iguaçu (16km)

11

A 111 B C D

11

111

Foz do Iguaçu (Brazil) Iguassu Guest House HOSTEL $
(%045-3029-0242; www.iguassuguesthouse.com.
Ø Activities, Courses & Tours br; R Naipi 1019; dm/d R$40/130; aiWs)
1 Central de Passagens ..........................B3 Great facilities and welcoming management
mark this out from the Foz hostel herd.
ÿ Sleeping There’s a small pool out the back, it’s spot-
2 Hotel Del Rey.........................................B2 less, and there’s a really good open kitchen
3 Hotel Rafain Centro ..............................C3 and lounge area. Dorms vary in size; private
4 Iguassu Guest House ...........................A2 rooms are very compact. The urban bus ter-
5 Pousada Sonho Meu ............................ B1 minal is just around the corner.
6 Tetris Container Hostel........................D5

ú Eating Hotel Rafain Centro HOTEL $$
7 Armazém .............................................. C4 (%045-3521-3500; www.rafaincentro.com.br;
8 Búfalo Branco........................................B2 Marechal Deodoro da Fonseca 984; s/d rack
9 Churrascaria do Gaúcho......................B2 R$347/435, discounted R$170/215; aiWs)

217

Much more appealing than the hulking includes tasty Lebanese morsels and sushi
megahotels around town, the Rafain is a rolls. Look diffident outside the door and
four-star place with plenty of facilities, style, you might get a cheaper deal.
artistic detail and friendly staff. Rooms are
simple with large balconies and there’s a 6 Drinking & Nightlife
cracking pool and terrace. Regular discount-
ing makes for superb value. Brazil is all about an ice-cold bottle of beer
in a plastic insulator served in a no-frills lo-
Hotel Del Rey HOTEL $$ cal bar with red plastic seats. Unbeatable.
(%045-2105-7500; www.hoteldelreyfoz.com.br; For a healthier tipple, juice bars give you the
Taro­bá 1020; s/d R$255/270; aiWs) Friend- chance to try exotic fruits such as acerola,
ly, spotless and convenient. Rooms are spa- açaí or cupuaçu.
cious and comfortable, facilities excellent
and the breakfast buffet huge. Book it ahead Nightlife centers on Av Jorge Schimmelp-
as its qualities are no secret. feng. A row of big indoor-outdoor bars here
all specialize in chopp (draft beer) and do
5 Eating decent food designed to share.

It’s easy to eat cheaply. Many places will 88 Information I g ua zú Fa ll s & th e N o rth e as t IFEgoautzaidznogú IFgaulalçsu ( B razi l)
serve you a soft drink and salgado (baked
or fried snack) for as little as R$4, and cheap Other currencies are widely accepted, but it’s
locals offer buffet lunch for R$10 to R$20. cheaper to pay in Brazilian reais. The closest
The Lebanese community ensures dozens of ATM to the urban bus terminal is a block beyond,
shawarma (kebab) places. under the Muffato supermarket.
P.I.T (% 0800-45-1516; www.pmfi.pr.gov.br/
Churrascaria do Gaúcho STEAK $ turismo; Av das Cataratas 2330, Vila Yolanda;
(www.facebook.com/churrasdogaucho; Av Repúbli- h7am-11pm) Between town and the falls.
ca Argentina 632; all-you-can-eat buffet R$28.50; There’s a handier office in the urban bus ter-
h11am-11pm; W) Near the local bus terminal, minal (% 0800-45-1516; www.pmfi.pr.gov.br/
this isn’t a refined spot, but offers excellent turismo; Kubitschek 1310; h7:30am-6pm).
value for its tasty cuts of meat and reasona-
ble salad options. 88 Getting There & Away

Armazém BRAZILIAN $$ There are daily flights to Rio de Janeiro, Porto
(%045-3572-0007; www.armazemrestaurante. Alegre, Curitiba and São Paulo among other
com.br; Edmundo de Barros 446; mains R$30-75; Brazilian cities.
h7pm-midnight daily, plus 11:30am-3:30pm Sat &
Sun; W) This well-frequented high-ceilinged Long-distance buses include Curitiba (10
restaurant serves top-shelf Brazilian food. hours), São Paulo (16 hours) and Rio de Janeiro
From starters like cheese-laden carpaccio (22 hours). Buy tickets at downtown Central de
to delicious chicken, cod and beef mains, Passagens (% 045-3528-8284; www.centralde
all just about enough for two, it delivers on passagens.com; Av Juscelino Kubitschek 526).
taste. The wine list covers the whole South-
ern Cone. Free hotel pickups and drop-offs. 88 Getting Around

Búfalo Branco CHURRASCARIA $$ The long-distance bus terminal (% 045-3522-
(%045-3523-9744; www.bufalobranco.com.br; 3336; Av Costa e Silva 1601) is 5km northeast of
Reb­ ouças 530; all-you-can-eat grill R$80; hnoon- downtown. To get downtown, get a taxi for R$25
11pm; Wv) This spacious Foz classic draws or catch bus 105 or 115 (R$3).
locals and tourists alike for its classy but
overpriced rodízio (all-you-can-eat mixed For the airport, catch the falls bus (p205).
grill), which features delicious beef as well Buses to Puerto Iguazú (R$4/AR$20) run
as more unusual choices like chicken hearts along Rua Mem de Sá alongside the urban bus
and turkey balls. The salad bar is great, and terminal half-hourly from 8am until 8pm; they
stop along Av Juscelino Kubitschek. Buses for
Ciudad del Este, Paraguay (R$5), run every 15
minutes (half-hourly on Sundays); catch them
on Av Juscelino Kubitschek opposite the urban
bus terminal.

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

Salta & the Andean
Northwest

Includes  Why Go?

Salta.............................219 Argentina’s northwest sits lofty, dry and tough beneath the
Cafayate...................... 238 mighty Andes. Nature works magic here with stone: weird,
Quebrada de wonderful, tortured rockscapes are visible throughout.
Cafayate...................... 245
Jujuy............................ 247 There’s a definite Andean feel characterizing the area’s
Quebrada de indigenous communities, traditional handicrafts, llamas
Humahuaca................ 250 and Inca ruins, and the high, arid puna (Andean highlands)
Tucumán......................261 stretching into Chile and Bolivia. This region’s cities were Ar-
Santiago del Estero.... 270 gentina’s first colonial settlements and have special appeal.
Catamarca.................. 272
La Rioja....................... 278 Several popular routes await. From travelers’ favorite
Chilecito.......................281 Salta, head through a national park studded with cactus
Parque Nacional sentinels to gorgeous Cachi, then down through traditional
Talampaya................... 283 weaving communities in the Valles Calchaquíes to Cafayate,
home of some of Argentina’s best wines. Another route from
Best National Salta soars upward to the puna mining settlement of San
Parks Antonio de los Cobres, heads north to the spectacular salt
plains of the Salinas Grandes, and then down to the visually
¨¨Calilegua (p250) wondrous and history-filled Quebrada de Humahuaca.
¨¨Talampaya (p283)
¨¨El Rey (p232) When to Go Rainfall inches/mm
¨¨Los Cardones (p233) 10/250
Salta
Best Places
to Stay °C/°F Temp

¨¨Estancia las Carreras 40/104
(p267)
¨¨Killa (p241) 30/86 8/200
¨¨Kkala (p229)
¨¨Posada El Arribo (p248) 20/68 6/150
¨¨Miraluna (p235)
10/50 4/100

0/32 2/50

-10/14 J F MAM J 0
J ASOND

Feb Temperatures Jul & Aug Chilly Sep & Oct Top
are high but Car- up on the puna compromise:
naval celebrations (Andean high- fewer tourists
are worth seeing. lands), but pleas- in Salta and
ant around the accept­able spring
Salta region. temperatures.

SALTA & JUJUY 219
PROVINCES Intricately plaited hair and clothes are
perfectly preserved, and their faces reflect –
Intertwined like yin and yang, Argentina’s you decide – a distant past or a typical 21st-­
northwestern provinces harbor an inspir- century Salta face; a peaceful passing or a
ing wealth of natural beauty and tradition- tortured death.
al culture. Bounded by Bolivia to the north The grave goods impress by their imme-
and Chile to the west, the zone climbs from diacy, with colors as fresh as the day they
sweaty cloud forests westward to the puna were produced. The illas (small votive fig-
highlands and some of the most majestic urines of animals and humans) are of silver,
peaks of the Andes cordillera. gold, shell and onyx, and many are clothed
in textiles. It’s difficult to imagine that a
The two capitals, especially colonial Salta, more privileged look at pre-Columbian
which is beloved by travelers, are launchpads South American culture will ever be offered
for exploring the jagged chromatic ravines of us. Also exhibited is the ‘Reina del Cerro,’ a
the Quebrada de Cafayate and Quebrada de tomb-robbed mummy that ended up here
Humahuaca; the villages of the Valles Cal- after a turbulent history. Good videos give
chaquíes, rich in artisanal handicrafts; the background on the sacrifices and on the
stark puna scenery; the national parks of Qhapaq Ñan, the Inca road system given
Calilegua and El Rey; and for nosing aromat- Unesco status in 2014. There’s a shop and
ic Cafayate torrontés (dry white wine). library as well as a cafe-bar with terrace.

Museo Histórico del Norte MUSEUM

Salta (Caseros 549; admissionAR$20; h9am-6pmTue-Fri, Sa lta & th e A n d e a n N o rth w e s t S iaglhttas& J u j u y P r o v i nces
9am-1:30pm & 2:30-7pm Sat, 9am-1:30pm Sun) Set
% 0387 / POP 655,600 / ELEV 1187M on the plaza in the lovely cabildo (town hall),
this collection ranges from pre-C­olumbian
Sophisticated Salta is a favorite, engaging ceramics through colonial-era religious art
active minds with its outstanding museums (admire the fine pulpit from Salta’s Jesuit
and lighting romantic candles with its plaza-­ church) and displays on Salta in the 19th and
side cafes and the live música folklórica of 20th centuries. The endless portraits of Salta’s
its vibrant peñas (folk music clubs). It offers governors wouldn’t be out of place in a beard-
the facilities (and the traffic and noise) of a and-mustache museum, while the transpor-
large town, retains the comfortable pace of tation collection includes an enormous 1911
a smaller place and preserves more colonial Renault that puts Hummers to shame.
architecture than most Argentine cities.
Iglesia San Francisco CHURCH
Founded in 1582, it’s now the most tour-
isted spot in northwest Argentina, and of- (www.conventosanfranciscosalta.com; cnr Caseros &
fers numerous accommodation options. The Córdoba; h8am-1pm & 2-9pm Mon-Sat, 8am-1pm &
center bristles with tour agents: this is the 5-9pmSun) This magenta-and-yellow church is
place to get things organized for onward Salta’s most striking. The exuberant facade is
travel. A popular option is to hire a car here topped by a slender tower; inside are several
to explore the surrounding area. much-venerated images, including the Niño

1 Sights Jesús de Aracoeli, a rather spooky crowned
figure. There’s a lovely garden cloister, ac-
oMuseo de Arqueología de Alta cessed via tours (English available, AR$40;

Montaña MUSEUM from 10am to 1pm and 2pm to 6:30pm Tues-

(MAAM; www.maam.gob.ar; Mitre 77; foreigner/ day to Saturday) that include a mediocre mu-
Argentine AR$70/50; h11am-7:30pm Tue-Sun)
One of northern Argentina’s premier mu- seum of religious art and treasures.

seums, this has a serious and informative oPajcha – Museo de Arte
exhibition focusing on Inca culture and, in
particular, the child sacrifices left on some Étnico Americano MUSEUM

of the Andes’ most imposing peaks. (www.museopajchasalta.com.ar; 20 de Febrero
831; foreigner/Argentine AR$40/20; h10am-1pm
The centerpiece is the mummified body & 4-­8pm Mon-Sat) This eye-opening private
of one of three children (rotated every six
months) discovered at the peak of Llullaillaco museum is a must-see if you’re interested
in indigenous art and culture. Juxtaposing
(p222) in 1999. It was a controversial deci- archaeological finds with contemporary and
sion to display the bodies and it is a powerful
experience to come face-to-face with them. recent artisanal work from all over Latin
America, it takes an encouragingly broad

Sa lta & th e A n d e a n N o rth w e s t S iaglhtats& J u j u y P r o v i nces 0 100 km 220
0 50 miles
Salta & the
Andean 1
Northwest
Highlights BOLIVIA Villazón Yacuiba PARAGUAY
Salvador Río Pilc
1 Wondering at La Quiaca Yavi Mazza
nature’s palette Laguna Parque Formosa
in the Quebrada Pozuelos RdíeoTGarriajnade
de Humahuaca Nacional
(p250). Baritú
2 Observing
weavers at work RN RN Iruya omayo
in the memorable 9 Aguas
Valles Calchaquíes Lago de 40
(p233). Blancas
3 Cleansing your Vilama Jujuy
lungs in the crisp
mountain air of Tafí Quebrada de RN
del Valle (p266). Humahuaca Humahuaca
4 Hitting Wild West Orán 34
Chilecito (p281),
the base for uplifting Susques Uquía LAS RN
mountain excursions. Tilcara Parque 81
5 Soaking up the
colonial ambience Salinas Nacional Y U NGAS Tropic of Capricorn
and enticing RN Grandes Calilegua Río Ber
boutique hotels of 52 Purmamarca Libertador
sophisticated Salta General
(p219). San Martín mejo
6 Quaffing
torrontés at northern San Antonio JUJUY RN San Pedro Salta
Argentina’s wine de los Cobres 66 de Jujuy
RP
los Andes Socompa RN 5
51
RP
27 La Poma Salta RN Parque
9 Nacional
Antofagasta RP El Rey
de la Sierra 17 Embalse Chaco
Cabra RP
Catamarca Cerro Cachi Seclantás Corral 5
Galán Molinos Valles
Cerro de (6600m) RN
Incahuasi Calchaquíes RN 16
(6620m) RP
43 RN 9 RN
68 34
Angastaco Parque
Quebrada Nacional Copo
de Cafayate
lera de Cafayate RN
16
CHILE Quilmes Amaicha Tucumán Río Salado Santiago
del Valle del Pampa
Santa de los
María Tafí del Estero Guanacos
Valle
RP RN
47 TUCUMÁN 92 RP

6

Cordil Parque Nacional Acheral RP
Campo de los Alisos RP 46
Concepción RN RN 5
RN 9 34
capital of Cafayate 45
(p238).
Cerro Pissis FiambaláShiEnlcal RN Termas
7 Trying the (6779m) 38 de Río
northwest’s regional Hondo
cuisine, where llama Western Belén La Banda RN
meat and quinoa RN SANTIAGO 89 RP
replace beef and Catamarca Londres 157 DEL ESTERO
pasta in places such 116
as San Antonio de RP RN
los Cobres (p245). Tinogasta 46 64
8 Experiencing Sierra de
subtropical forest Cerro Famatina RN RN Villa Las RN
while ascending Bonito Chico 60 40 Pirquitas
through steamy
Parque Nacional (6850m) RN 34
Calilegua (p250). 42
9 Gazing over Añatuya
crater lakes, 6000m CATAMARCA
volcanoes and Laguna Colonia Dara
awesome Andean Brava
scenery in western RN RN RN
Catamarca (p277). 74 Anillaco 38 9 RN

98

R ío Bla nco Chilecito SiVererlaasdceo RP RN Río Dulce
Villa Unión 9 157

RP
5

RN Parque LA RIOJA RN Villa Ojo RN
40 Nacional 60 de Agua 34

Talampaya RN La Rioja
38

RP Patquía RN
26 79
RN RN
Parque 150 RP Chamical Salinas 9 Santa Fe
Provincial RP 27 Grandes
Ischigualasto 510 RN Laguna Mar
RP 38 Córdoba Chiquita
San Juan Río Barmejo 28
Villa CÓRDOBA
RP Santa Río Segundo
29 Rita
RN
SAN JUAN Chepes 36
Rí o San Ju a n
RN
79

Merlo

Sa lta & th e A n d e a n N o rth w e s t S iaglhtats& J u j u y P r o v i nces 221
MENDOZA

222

view of Andean culture and beyond. It’s an AR$55/110; h10am-7pm) from Parque San
exquisite dose of color and beauty run with Martín to the top of this hill, a kilometer’s
great enthusiasm by the English-speaking ride that takes eight minutes. Alternatively,
management. take the trail starting at the Güemes monu­
The quality of the pieces (amazing ment. Atop is a cafe (whose terrace has the
macaw-­feather creations, religious sculpture best views), a watercourse and artesanía
from the Cuzco school, tools of the trade of (handicraft) shops.
Bolivian Kallawaya healers and finely craft-
Courses
Ced Mapuche silver jewelry) is extraordinarily
high, testament to decades of study and col-
lection by the anthropologist founder. Salta appeals as a spot for a taking a Spanish
course, and there are several organizations.
CONVENT Search online for recent recommendations.
Convento de San Bernardo
(Caseros s/n; hpastries 9am-noon & 4-6pm
Tours
TMon-Sat) Only Carmelite nuns may enter
this 16th-century convent, but visitors can Salta is the base for a range of tours, offered
approach the handsome adobe building to by numerous agencies, with a high concen-
admire its carved, 18th-century algarrobo-­ tration on Buenos Aires and Caseros near
wood door and buy nun-made pastries. The the plaza. Popular trips head to Cafayate
church can be visited before Mass (from 7am (AR$530), Cachi (AR$600), San Antonio
to 8:30am weekday and Sunday mornings, de los Cobres (the Tren a las Nubes route;
7pm to 8pm Saturday evenings). AR$700), Salinas Grandes and Purmamarca
(AR$1050) and more.
Sa lta & th e A n d e a n N o rth w e s t CS aolutrase&sJ u j u y P r o v i nces Cerro San Bernardo HILL Operators such as Altro Turismo (Marina
Turismo; %0387-431-9769; www.altroturismo.com.
For outstanding views of Salta, take the ar; Caseros 489) and Tastil (%0387-431-1223;
teleférico (%0387-431-0641; one way/roundtrip

THE CHILDREN GIVEN TO THE MOUNTAIN

The phrase ‘human sacrifice’ is sensationalist, but it is a fact that the Inca culture some-
times sacrificed the lives of high-born children to please or appease their gods. The Inca
saw this as an offering to ensure the continuing fertility of their people and the land.
The high peaks of the Andes were always considered sacred, and were chosen as sac-
rifice sites; the Inca felt that the children would be reunited with their forefathers, who
watched over the communities from the loftiest summits.

Carefully selected for the role, the children were taken to the ceremonial capital Cuz-
co, Peru, where they were central to a large celebration – the capacocha. Ceremonial
marriages between the children helped cement diplomatic links between tribes across
the empire. At the end of the fiesta, they were paraded around the plaza, then were
required to return home in a straight line – an arduous journey that could take months.
Once home, they were feted and welcomed, then taken into the mountains. There they
were fed, and given quantities of chicha (maize alcohol). When they passed out, they
were taken up to the peak of the mountain and entombed, sometimes alive, presumably
never to awaken, and sometimes having been strangled or killed with a blow to the head.

Three such children were found in 1999 near the peak of Llullaillaco, a 6739m vol-
cano 480km west of Salta, on the Chilean border. It’s the highest known archaeological
site in the world. The cold, the low pressure and a lack of oxygen and bacteria helped
preserve the bodies almost perfectly. The Doncella (Maiden) was about 15 years old at
the time of death, and was perhaps an aclla (a ‘virgin of the sun’), a prestigious role in
Inca society. The other two, a boy and girl both aged from six to seven (the girl damaged
by a later lightning strike), had cranial deformations that indicated they came from high-­
ranking families. Each was accompanied by a selection of grave goods which included
textiles and small figurines of humanoids and camelids.

The mummies’ transfer to Salta was controversial. Many felt they should have been
left where they were discovered; but once their location was known, this was impossible.
Whatever your feelings about the children, and the role of archaeology, they offer an
undeniably fascinating glimpse of Inca religion and culture.

223

TREN A LAS NUBES

Argentina’s most famous rail trip, Tren a las Nubes (Train to the Clouds; www.trenalas
nubes.com.ar; cnr Ameghino & Balcarce; roundtrip US$182; hSat Apr–mid-Dec), heads from
Salta down the Lerma Valley before ascending multicolored Quebrada del Toro, contin-
uing past Tastil ruins and San Antonio de los Cobres, before reaching a stunning viaduct
spanning a desert canyon at La Polvorilla (altitude 4220m).

It’s an incredible feat of engineering but a notoriously unreliable service. The trip, way
overpriced, is a touristy one (a tourist trap, in many ways) with piped music, and Spanish
and English commentary. It’s a long day – leaving Salta at 7am and getting back into
town (the return is by bus) at 9pm. The train stops twice, at the viaduct and at San Anto-
nio. The return bus trip stops at the Tastil museum (no ruins visit).

The price includes mediocre snacks; there’s a buffet car and dining car for fuller
meals. You’re not encouraged to take food on board. Medical staff are on hand for alti-
tude sickness.

The train runs Saturdays from April to mid-December. Book tickets online, at the office
(%0387-422-8021; www.trenalasnubes.com.ar; Alberdi 53, shop 33; h8am-8pm Mon-Fri, 9am-
3pm Sat) or at travel agents. Look out for discount vouchers around town.

Salta tour operators run trips along the road paralleling the tracks: also a spectacular
ascent. Only some include the viaduct. You could also get the bus to San Antonio de los
Cobres, explore the town and get a cab to La Polvorilla from there.

www.turismotastil.com.ar; Caseros 468) are relia- Salta Rafting RAFTING Sa lta & th e A n d e a n N o rth w e s t ST oalutras & J u j u y P r o v i nces
ble. We recommend operators for interest-
ing trips beyond the standard excursions. (%0387-421-3216; www.saltarafting.com; Caseros
177) This well-managed setup runs two-hour
white-water rafting trips on the Class III
Alternativa Salta DRIVING TOUR Río Juramento, 100km from Salta (US$59

(%0387-15-502-5588; www.alternativasalta.com) including barbecue lunch; transportation
Runs brilliant multiday 4WD trips into the
spectacular, remote highlands of north­ US$30 extra). You can also take spectacular
400m ziplines across a canyon (four-line trip
western Argentina. US$40). A combo with lunch is US$94.

Clark Expediciones BIRD-WATCHING Sayta HORSEBACK RIDING

(%0387-492-7280; www.clarkexpediciones.com) (%0387-15-683-6565; www.saltacabalgatas.com.
Professional agency offering trips with
English-s­peaking guides to national parks ar; Chicoana) This estancia (ranch) near
Chicoana, 41km south of Salta, runs excellent
and remote uplands. This outfit is serious horseback-riding days, with gaucho culture
about bird-watching; trips include a half-/full
day in the Reserva del Huaico, a 60-­hectare and optional asado (barbecue grill). A half-
day with/without lunch costs US$85/60; a
cloud-forest reserve 8km west of Salta, two full day US$120 to US$140 (with overnight
days to Parque Nacional El Rey and multiday
tailored itineraries. accommodation US$150). A two-day/one-
night package is US$250. Prices include
transfers from Salta.
MTB Salta MOUNTAIN BIKING

(%0387-15-527-1499; www.mtbsalta.com; Güemes oSocompa TOUR
569) Arranges a variety of excellent mountain-­
biking and hiking tours around the prov- (%0387-431-5974; www.socompa.com; Balcarce
998) This professional setup runs highly
ince, ranging from half-days in the nearby recommended tours into the Andean high-
forests to multiday excursions in the Valles
Calchaquíes. lands. Its flagship five-day Puna Experience
takes in the best of the highland scenery of
Catamarca and Salta provinces using com-
Norte Trekking HIKING fortable accommodations and multilingual

(%0387-431-6616; www.nortetrekking.com; Güemes guides. Another tour covers highlights of the
265) Trips to Parque Nacional El Rey, multi-
day hikes and mountain climbing, with some northwest, including a sally into Chile. Book
guaranteed departure dates listed on its web- well ahead. Tours are private: you can’t join
site. Also runs excellent 4WD excursions into a group.
the mountainous west of the province.

224

Jujuy & Salta Provinces

BOLIVIA TRaríoijaGrande

Lípez Padcaya
Monumento
e Villazón La
Natural Mamora
d Cieneguillas La Yavi Lipeo
Laguna Quiaca
Andes Laguna de Los Toldos
Cordillera los Pozuelos Baritú
Rinconada La Intermedia

Lago de Pozuelos RP Abra Parque
Vilama Nacional
7 Baritú

Pampa Iruya S
A
Tres Cruces L Aguas
Blancas
Casabindo
RN
San Pedro 9
de Atacama Paso de Jujuy HQuuembarhaudaacdae Cerro
Jama Coctaca Hermoso
(4230m) Humahuaca
de los 4RN0

RN Susques Uquía (3600m)

52 Valle Y

Salinas Tilcara Grande RP Parque
Grandes San Nacional
Francisco 83 Calilegua

Paso Maimará

Sa lta & th e A n d e a n N o rth w e s t S laleteap i&n gJ u j u y P r o v i nces Huaytiquina Purmamarca Río Aguas Calilegua
Negras Libertador
Volcán General

RN 5 & CHILE Paso Olacapato Termas Gra nde San Martín
Antofagasta de Sico La Polvorilla de Reyes
6RN6 3RN4 San Pedro
RP San Antonio 5RN1 JUJUY de Jujuy
de los Cobres
27 RN Parque
4RN0
Socompa Cordillera Tolar 9 Nacional
Grande Tastil General El Rey
2RP7 Quebrada
La Poma del Toro RN Güemes
Llullaillaco 9
(6739m) 1RP7 Tren a las
Nubes SALTA 2RP0

Cachi Adentro Payogasta 6RN8 Lumbreras

Chicoana RP

Cachi 3RP3 Embalse 5 RN
Molinos Seclantás Parque Cabra
Nacional Corral Metán 16

Los Cardones

Finca RN CValaclhleasquíes Alemania
Colomé
40

Catamarca Angastaco Q udeeb rCaadfa y a tae Rosario de
San Carlos la Frontera
Cafayate 2RP5
RN

34

R9N

Trancas

Quilmes Tucumán

4 Sleeping oEspacio Mundano B&B $
(%0387-572-2244; www.espaciomundano.com.
Salta has dozens of hostels, some cleaner ar; Güemes 780; r US$58-82; aWc) There’s
than others, and competition keeps prices absolutely nothing mundane about this ar-
low. Boutique hotels and apartments pop up tistic oasis in the heart of Salta. The place is
like mushrooms. a riot of color, lovely ceramic beasts and all

manner of craft creations. It’s highly original,

0 100 km 225
0 50 miles
center, some of which look onto tiny garden
patios. It’s run by kindly, courteous people, is
Río spotless and is a pleasingly reliable choice. A
few extras such as big fluffy towels and hair-
dryers put it above most in its price band.
Pi l com a yo
de Tarija Residencial El Hogar GUESTHOUSE $
(%0387-431-6158; www.residencialelhogar.com.ar;
Yacuiba Saravia 239; d US$51; aW) Run with genuine
Salvador Mazza warmth, this pleasing little place is on a qui-
(Pocitos) et residential street with the San Bernardo
hill looming over the end of it. It’s still an
3RN4 easy stroll into the center, though. Attractive
rooms with nice little touches, helpful own-
Tartagal ers and a tasty breakfast make this a recom-

Bermejo

mendable base at a fair price.

Embarcación Coloria Hostel HOSTEL $
Orán (% 0387-431-3058; www.coloriahostel.com;
RN Güemes 333; dm US$10-12, d US$35; aWs)

81

Berm Upbeat, engaged staff and a glorious open-
YUN G AS
Tropic of Capricorn plan common area that looks over the gar-
Río den and small pool are the major highlights
of this enjoyable central hostel. It’s colorful
RP and quite upmarket by Salta standards; Sa lta & th e A n d e a n N o rth w e s t S laleteap i&n gJ u j u y P r o v i nces
cleanliness is good; and dorms, though
5 there’s not a huge amount of space, are com-
fortable. Private rooms are very tight.
ejo

Salta

La Posta GUESTHOUSE, HOSTEL $
(%0387-422-1985; [email protected]; Cór-
doba 368; dm/s/d US$15/28/45; W) This simple
but enchanting guesthouse makes a great
RP budget choice for those looking for a quiet,
peaceful central stay. Caring owners keep it
30 spotless, and the en suite rooms are excel-

JV González

Chaco lent. Dorms have breathing room and lock-
ers, and breakfast is tasty with decent coffee.
An appealingly relaxing place.

Munay Hotel HOTEL $
(%0387-422-4936; www.munayhotel.com.ar; Av
R í o Ju r a m ent o San Martín 656; s/d US$44/68; aW) Though
it’s on a busy, chaotic street (lots of local
character, though), we still think this is a
worthwhile budget hotel. A handy loca-
tion, a staff that’s pleased to see you, well-­
Santiago furnished and clean bedrooms, shower
del Estero curtains and breakfast – a fine choice. Some

rooms are small, but management is happy
to give you a bigger one if it can.

friendly and likably chaotic. The three rooms Las Rejas HOSTEL $
are individually decorated and appealing, (% 0387-422-7959; www.lasrejashostel.com;
with either en suite or exterior bathroom. Güemes 569; dm U$10-12, d with/without bathroom
US$40/30; W) Occupying rather a character-
ful building, this hostel has trendy exposed
Posada de las Farolas HOTEL $ brick in the common areas thanks to a styl-
(%0387-421-3463; www.posadalasfarolas.com.ar;
Córdoba 246; s/d US$45/65; aW) Good value ish recent renovation. Two levels of rooms
for neat, clean air-conditioned rooms in the and dorms out the back offer good space

Sa lta & th e A n d e a n N o rth w e s t S alleteap i&n Jg u j u y P r o v i nces 226

Salta e# 0 400 m
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227

228

Sa lta & th e A n d e a n N o rth w e s t S laleteap i&n gJ u j u y P r o v i nces Salta 23 Kkala........................................................... F1
24 La Candela................................................C4
æ Top Sights 25 La Posta ....................................................C7
1 Museo de Arqueología de Alta 26 Las Rejas ..................................................B4
Montaña ................................................ B5 27 Legado Mítico ..........................................B3
2 Pajcha – Museo de Arte Étnico 28 Munay Hotel .............................................B6
Americano ............................................ A2 29 Posada de las Farolas .............................C6
30 Residencial El Hogar ............................... E5
æ Sights 31 Salta por Siempre ...................................B8
3 Cerro San Bernardo ............................... G5 32 Villa Vicuña ...............................................C5
4 Convento de San Bernardo ................... D5 ú Eating
5 Güemes Monument.................................E4 33 Bartz..........................................................C3
6 Iglesia San Francisco.............................. C5 34 Chirimoya .................................................C5
7 Museo Histórico del Norte..................... B5 35 El Charrúa.................................................C5
36 El Solar del Convento..............................C5
Ø Activities, Courses & Tours 37 Jovi II .........................................................B3
8 Altro Turismo .......................................... B5 38 La Céfira ...................................................C7
MTB Salta ...................................... (see 26) 39 La Monumental........................................D3
9 Norte Trekking ........................................ C4 40 La Tacita ...................................................C5
10 Salta Rafting ............................................ D5 41 Ma Cuisine................................................D5
11 Socompa................................................... B1 42 Paseo de la Familia..................................C8
12 Tastil ......................................................... B5 43 Viejo Jack..................................................D5
13 Tren a las Nubes ...................................... B1 û Drinking & Nightlife
14 Tren a las Nubes Office .......................... B5 44 Café del Tiempo.......................................B2
45 Cafe Mitre .................................................B4
ÿ Sleeping 46 Macondo...................................................B2
15 Ankara Suites .......................................... D5 ý Entertainment
16 Balcón de la Plaza ................................... B5 47 La Vieja Estación .....................................B2
17 Bloomers B&B......................................... C5
18 Carpe Diem.............................................. C6
19 Coloria Hostel.......................................... C4
20 Espacio Mundano ................................... A4
21 Hotel Andalucía ....................................... B8
22 Hotel del Antiguo Convento .................. D5

and are well maintained. The combination oCarpe Diem B&B $$
of central location and relaxed vibe is tops. (%0387-421-8736; www.carpediemsalta.com.ar;
Good bike hire on premises. Urquiza 329; s/d US$100/110; iW) There’s

Salta por Siempre HOSTEL $ a real home-from-home feel about this
(%0387-423-3230; www.saltaporsiempre.com.ar; B&B that’s full of thoughtful touches, such
Tucumán 464; dm/s/d US$18/30/42, d with bath- as home-baked bread at breakfast, entic-
room US$50; iW) This superfriendly hostel is ing places to sit about with a book, and a
eight blocks south of the plaza, but worth the computer with internet connection in the
trudge. The quiet, handsome building has attractive rooms, which are stocked with
clean, colorful rooms with bathrooms – some noble antique furniture. Singles with shared
dorms have beds, others bunks – a proper bathroom in the appealing grassy garden
kitchen and attractive shared spaces. There are small but a good deal at US$56.

are cheaper dorms around, but the security oLa Candela HOTEL $$
and reliable operation makes this a decent (%0387-422-4473; www.hotellacandela.com.ar;
choice. Look online for best rates. Pueyrredón 346; d US$130-192; aiWs)

Hotel Andalucía HOTEL $ Decked out like a country villa with an
(%0387-431-3259; www.hotelandaluciasalta.com. L-shaped pool and a grassy garden, this is
ar; Alberdi 651; s/d US$30/42; aW) Though this nevertheless central and features excellent
budget hotel has a rather lugubrious lobby staff, good facilities and comfortable rooms,
area, rooms are much crisper. It’s a family-­ including a duplex apartment out back. Dif-
run place that offers spotless, comfortable ferent grades of room differ chiefly by size.
air-conditioned chambers that are modern The decor is one of easy elegance, with an
with OK bathrooms despite some old-time eclectic range of art on the walls.

decor. Good comfort at a good price.

There are also a couple of simpler, cheap- 229
er rooms (US$109). and an atmosphere of refined relaxation are
other high points. No under 12s.

oAnkara Suites APARTMENT $$ oVilla Vicuña BOUTIQUE HOTEL $$$
(%0387-421-3969; www.ankarasuites.com; Zorrilla (%0387-432-1579; www.villavicuna.com.ar; Case-
145; apt US$125-146; aiW) These very invit- ros 266; r US$154-174; aWs) Beautifully re-
ing apartments offer great flexibility in the alized in modern antique style in a central
center of Salta. They come with polished location, this hotel boasts luminous, easy-
floors, breakfast bar (brought to your room), on-the-eye rooms with old-style floor tiles
fully equipped kitchens and very comfortable along a finger-shaped patio in a typically
double bedrooms. Bathrooms are attractive- elegant Salta house. There’s a feeling of light
ly modern, with spacious showers. Service is and space throughout; the back garden with
excellent and the place seems exceptionally pool is a highlight, as are numerous decora-
well run. There’s a top-floor Jacuzzi and sau- tive details and the pleasant service.
na, as well as free laundry facilities.
Finca Valentina ESTANCIA $$$
(%0387-15-415-3490; www.finca-valentina.com.
Bloomers B&B B&B $$
(%0387-422-7449; www.bloomers-salta.com.ar; ar; RN 51, Km6; s/d standard US$125/155, supe-
Vicente López 129; d US$110-140; aiW) Book rior US$150/185; Ws) Only the chirping of
ahead to grab one of the five rooms at this ex- birds and cicadas breaks the silence at this
quisitely stylish yet comfortable guesthouse. fabulously peaceful ranch 6km beyond the
The second B here stands for brunch, served airport and a 20-minute drive from the
until noon. The color-themed rooms are all center. The comfortable, homey elegance
different and all delightful. It’s like staying at focuses on cool white spaces and abundant
a friend’s – you can use the kitchen – but few lounging potential on verandas. An excel- Sa lta & th e A n d e a n N o rth w e s t SE atlti nag& J u j u y P r o v i nces
of our friends have a place this pretty. lent breakfast is included and other meals
are available.
Hotel del Antiguo Convento HOTEL $$
(%0387-422-7267; www.hoteldelconvento.com.ar;
Balcón de la Plaza BOUTIQUE HOTEL $$$
Caseros 113; s/d US$70/88, d superior US$105-120; (%0387-421-4792; www.balcondelaplaza.com.ar;
aiWs) Rooms are modern and sunny at España 444; r US$180-204; aiW) Polite and
this central hotel, and there’s a great little genuinely helpful service, an appealingly
pool area out the back. A duplex apartment genteel ambience, and 10 understated and
next to it sleeps four. Superiors on the top elegant rooms with handsome bathrooms
floor are excellent, with extra facilities. and king-sized beds are all points in favor
of this recently opened boutique. Another is
oKkala BOUTIQUE HOTEL $$$ its excellent location, half a block from the
(% 0387-439-6590; www.hotelkkala.com.ar;
cnr Las Higueras & Las Papayas; r US$260-390; plaza. It occupies a lovely building dwarfed
by ugly brethren on either side. Rates are
aiWs) Tucked away in the upmarket res- usually substantially lower than rack prices.
idential barrio of Tres Cerritos, this peace-
ful place makes relaxation easy. Exquisite 5 Eating
rooms, suites and public areas surround a
small garden with a heated pool; the high- It’s a toss-up between Salta and Tucumán
er grades come with views and their own for Argentina’s best empanadas, but they’re
Jacuzzi. Decks with city vistas make perfect wickedly toothsome in both places. Lo-
spots for a sundowner from the honesty bar. cals debate the merits of fried (in an iron
Service is top-notch. skillet – juicier) or baked (in a clay oven –
tastier).

oLegado Mítico BOUTIQUE HOTEL $$$ oChirimoya VEGETARIAN $
(%0387-422-8786; www.legadomitico.com; Mitre
647; r standard/superior/deluxe US$255/275/295; (España 211; mains AR$50-90; h9am-4pm &
8:30pm-12:30am Mon-Sat; Wv) Colorful and
aiW) The elegant rooms, some faithful to upbeat, this vegan (some honey is used)
the style of this noble old Salta house, some
with a subtle indigenous theme, are reason cafe-restaurant makes an enticing stop.
Delicious blended juices and organic wines
enough to book in at this tranquil central wash down daily changing specials served
retreat, particularly if you grab one of the
downstairs ones that have their own seclud- in generous portions. It’s all delicious. Does
deliveries, too.
ed bamboo-strewn patio. Courteous service

230

PASEO DE LA FAMILIA of this likable little place sees a variety of
changing dishes – pasta, fish and meat, all
A simple and enjoyable local eating well prepared and served with things such
scene can be found on the Paseo de as noodles or stir-fried vegetables – chalked
la Familia (Catamarca btwn San Luis & La up on the board. The friendly young couple
Rioja; meals AR$30-100; hmost stalls 8am- that runs it lived in France, so there’s a cer-
3pm) occupying a block of Catamarca tain Gallic influence at work.
south of San Luis. Street-food stalls dole
out grilled chicken, pizza, tamales and La Céfira ARGENTINE $$
lomitos (steak sandwiches) to plastic (%0387-421-4922; www.lacefira.com; Córdoba 481;
tables under a long awning. Most open mains AR$65-150; h7pm-midnight Mon-Sat, noon-
from breakfast time to 3pm or so, but 3pm Sun; Wv) This handsome pasta-driven
some plan to open in the evenings, too. dining room a few blocks south of the center
is a cut far above the usual gnocchi-w­ ith-
four-cheese-sauce joints. Inventive, flavor-
some temptations (think ingred­ients such
as squid ink, dressed crab, curried pumpkin
Jovi II ARGENTINE $ and poppyseeds) made with excellent home-
(Balcarce 601; mains AR$70-110; hnoon-4pm
& 8pm-1am) A long terrace overlooking the made pastas always include lots of vegetar-
ian options. There are some meat and fish
palms of Plaza Güemes is just one reason to dishes, too.
like this popular local restaurant. It does a
huge range of dishes well, without frills and
in generous portions. Several rabbit dishes, El Charrúa ARGENTINE, PARRILLA $$
(www.parrillaelcharrua.com.ar; Caseros 221; mains
Sa lta & th e A n d e a n N o rth w e s t SE atlti nag& J u j u y P r o v i nces tasty fish and a succulent plate of the day are AR$120-200; hnoon-3:30pm & 7pm-12:30am
backed up by excellent service.
Mon-Fri, to late Sat & Sun; W) Bright and homey,
this popular restaurant goes way beyond the
La Tacita EMPANADAS $ normal parrilla (steak restaurant) focus
(Caseros 396; empanadas AR$8; h8am-11pm
Mon-Sat, 10am-11pm Sun) This very basic little and includes some regional dishes, specials
and decent pasta. Service and quality are
eatery offers some of the city’s best empana- generally reliable, and the price is fair for
das in a welcoming no-frills setting. Great
for a quick stop while sightseeing. this standard.

La Monumental PARRILLA $ Bartz TAPAS $$
(%0387-461-0160; www.bartzsalta.com; Legui­
(Entre Ríos 202; mains AR$105-155; hnoon-3pm & zamón 465; tapas AR$40-95; h11:30am-1am
8pm-1am) The fluorescent lighting and pha-
lanx of fans mark this out as a classic neigh- Mon-Sat; W) Some extremely tasty flavor
combinations are available on the eclectic
borhood grill. Generous quantities, including tapas list at this friendly cafe-restaurant
an impressive array of free nibbles, cheap
house wine and decent meat seal the deal. north of the center. Influences include Span-
ish, Greek, Japanese and more. The talented
Half-portions (70% of the full-p­ ortion price) chef puts together attractive but unpreten-
are more than enough for one. Don’t confuse
it with the more upmarket restaurant with tious combinations that include delicious
salmon and tuna options. Dishes are gener-
the same name diagonally opposite. ously proportioned – think three to four of

Viejo Jack PARRILLA $ them to comfortably feed two.
(Av Bicentenario de la Batalla de Salta 145; mains
AR$70-130; h12:30-3:30pm & 8pm-1am or later) El Solar del Convento ARGENTINE $$
(%0387-421-5124; Caseros 444; mains AR$110-
Far enough out of the tourist zone to be au- 165; h8am-midnight; W) Warmly decorated
thentic, but not so far it’s a pain to get to, this
is a down-to-earth spot very popular with and popular, this reliable touristy choice of-
fers solicitous service – the free aperitif wins
locals for its parrillada (mixed grill) and points – and a varied menu. It specializes in
pasta. The serves are huge – designed for two
to four – but you’ll get a single portion (still lomo (sirloin) with tasty sauces, and also has
fish dishes and parrillada options. Try the
enough for two!) for 70% of the price. tender bondiola (pork shoulder) as a change

Ma Cuisine FUSION $$ from steak. The meat here is decent value
(España 83; mains AR$90-150; h8pm-midnight for central Salta; the wine list could offer
Tue-Sat; W) The refreshingly crisp interior more, for less.

6 Drinking & Nightlife 231

Peñas are the classic Salta nighttime expe- lórica music on this street, the mostly indie
rience. The two blocks of Balcarce north of mix in this trendy bar might come as a relief.
Alsina, and the surrounding streets, are the Popular with locals and tourists, it keeps it
main zone for these and other nightlife. Bars lively until late and has a good streetside
and clubs around here follow the typical terrace. There’s live music most nights.
boom-bust-reopen-with-new-name pattern,
so just follow your nose. 7 Shopping

Cafe Mitre BAR An artisan’s market sets up every Sunday
along Balcarce, stretching a couple of blocks
(Mitre 368; h8:30am-1am Mon-Fri, 6pm-3am Sat; south from the station.

W) Chunky, colorful chairs and tables, a styl- Mercado Artesanal HANDICRAFTS

ish interior, and a great little people-w­ atching (Av San Martín 2555; h9am-9pm) S For sou-
venirs, this provincially sponsored mar-
terrace out front make this visually easy on ket is noteworthy. Articles include native
the eye. Friendly service, decent coffee and
good cocktails make it a spot to linger. handicrafts, such as hammocks, string bags,
ceramics, basketry, leatherwork and the re-
Café del Tiempo BAR gion’s distinctive ponchos. Take bus 5A from

(www.cafedeltiempo.com.ar; Balcarce 901; h6pm- downtown.
3am Mon-Sat, 8am-2am Sun; W) Decked out to
resemble a Buenos Aires cafe, this has prices 88 Information
to match and offers a stylish terrace in the
heart of the Balcarce zone; it’s a top spot for Calle España, just west of the plaza, was the
a drink. Expect some sort of performance or money changers’ hangout when we last visited. Sa lta & th e A n d e a n N o rth w e s t SDarli ntka i&n gJ u&j uNyi gPhrtolvi fi neces
live music every night. The menu includes Hospital San Bernardo (% 0387-431-7472;
llama dishes and international offerings www.hospitalsanbernardo.gob.ar; Tobías 69)
such as chop suey; picadas (shared appetiz- Municipal Tourist Office (% 0387-437-3340;
er plates) are great for groups. www.saltalalinda.gov.ar; Caseros 711; h 8am-
9pm Mon-Fri, 9am-9pm Sat & Sun) Gives out
Macondo BAR maps. Also runs desks in the bus terminal
and at the airport, open roughly 9am to 9pm,
(www.facebook.com/macondo.barensalta; Balcarce depending on staffing.
980; h8pm-late Wed-Sun; W) With all the folk-

PEÑAS

Salta is famous Argentina-wide for its folklórica (folk music), which is far more national
in scope than tango. A peña is a bar or social club where people eat, drink and gather to
play and listen, traditionally in the form of an impromptu jam session.

These days, the Salta peña is quite a touristy experience, incorporating a dinner-show
with CD sales and tour groups; nevertheless, it’s a great deal of fun. Traditional fare such
as empanadas and red wine are served but most places offer a wider menu of meat and
regional dishes.

Peña heartland is Calle Balcarce, between Alsina and the train station. There are sev-
eral here, along with other restaurants, bars and boliches (nightclubs) – it’s Salta’s main
nightlife zone.

Some are a lot better and more traditional than others.

La Casona del Molino (%0387-434-2835; www.facebook.com/lacasonadelmolino; Burela
1; h9pm-4am Tue-Sun) This former mansion, about 20 blocks west of Plaza 9 de Julio, is
a Salta classic. Several spacious rooms feature performers who work around the tables
rather than on a stage, as well as spontaneous jams and lots of dancing. The food is of
very good quality (mains AR$40 to AR$70). Get there early-ish to guarantee a table.
There’s a cover on weekend nights.

La Vieja Estación (%0387-421-7727; www.la-viejaestacion.com.ar; Balcarce 885; cover
charge AR$20; h7pm-3am) The best established of the Balcarce peñas, with a stage,
wooden tables and a good atmosphere. Music starts at 10pm. Top empanadas and other
regional food is served, including some interesting Andean fusion options (mains from
AR$100 to AR$190).

232

PARQUE NACIONAL EL REY

East of Salta, this national park ([email protected]) F lies at the southern end of the
Yungas subtropical corridor and protects a gloriously biologically diverse habitat.

It’s a beautiful, varied landscape ranging from meadowlands and low scrub forest
to subtropical cloud forest. There are various well-marked trails, some accessible by
vehicle. There’s abundant birdlife, and mammals such as peccaries and brown brocket
deer are often spotted. Laguna Los Patitos, 2km from park headquarters, offers
waterbird observation. Longer trails lead to moss-covered Pozo Verde, a three- to four-
hour climb to an area teeming with birdlife. Other trails are of similar day-trip length and
involve multiple river crossings. Shorter 2km Sendero La Chuña heads out from the
campsite and is a good introduction to this ecosystem.

There is free camping with a huge grassy area for tents; facilities include toilets, drink-
able water, cold showers and evening power but there’s no shop. Contact APN in Salta
(APN; %0387-431-2683; www.parquesnacionales.gov.ar; España 366; h8am-2pm Mon-Fri)
for up-to-date info. The closest noncamping accommodations is at a curious ecological
community 4km down the park road from the turnoff.

From the access road on RP 5 it’s 37km on gravel to the park entrance and a further
10km to the trailheads/campsite. Several streams are impassable in a regular (non-
4WD) car after rain (likely from December to March). Tours from Salta also come here.
Last fuel is at the General Güemes–Salta junction, 160km from the park, so fill up there.

Sa lta & th e A n d e a n N o rth w e s t SGealtttai n&gJTuhjeuryeP&r oAvwianyces Provincial Tourist Office (% 0387-431-0950; They continue to Calama, Antofagasta, Iquique
www.turismosalta.gov.ar; Buenos Aires 93; and Arica (AR$1283).
h 8am-9pm Mon-Fri, 9am-8pm Sat & Sun) Top
marks – friendly, efficient and multilingual. Ask Ale Hermanos runs two to three times daily to
staff about provincial road conditions. San Antonio de los Cobres (AR$115, 5½ hours)
and Cachi (AR$120, 4½ hours).
88 Getting There & Away
For Puerto Iguazú, change in Resistencia. For
AIR Bariloche, change in Mendoza. Companies sell
Salta’s airport (SLA; % 0387-424-3115) is through-tickets.
9.5km southwest of town on RP 51.
Aerolíneas Argentinas (% 0810-222-86527; Buses from Salta
www.aerolineas.com; Caseros 475; h8am-
12:45pm & 4-6:45pm Mon-Fri, 9am-12:45pm Sat) DESTINATION COST (AR$) TIME (HR)
Flies several times daily to Buenos Aires; also Buenos Aires 1300-1500 18-22
serves Córdoba, Mendoza and Puerto Iguazú. Cafayate 159 4
Andes (% 0810-777-26337; www.andesonline. Córdoba 918 11-14
com; Caseros 459; h8am-1pm & 4:30-7pm Jujuy 75 2
Mon-Fri, 9:30am-1pm Sat) Thrice weekly flights La Quiaca 240 7½
to Buenos Aires with connection to Puerto La Rioja 616 10
Madryn. Mendoza 1275-1350 18-20
BoA (% 0387-471-1558; www.boa.bo; Mitre 37, Resistencia 719 10-12
shop 24) In a shopping arcade off the plaza. Salvador Mazza 411 6½
Flies to Santa Cruz (Bolivia). Santiago del Estero 445 7
LAN (% 0810-999-9526; www.lan.com; Case- Tucumán 290 4¼
ros 476; h 9am-1pm & 5-8pm Mon-Fri) Flies to
Buenos Aires; also Santiago via Iquique (Chile).

BUS CAR
Salta’s bus terminal (% 0387-431-5022; Av There are dozens of agencies: get several
Hipó­lito Yrigoyen; h information 6am-10pm) quotes. Typically, it’s AR$800 to AR$1000 per
has ATMs, tourist information and left-luggage day, and triple that for a 4WD.
services.
There are often advance booking specials
Three companies run to San Pedro de Ataca- online. Most offer discounts for paying cash.
ma, Chile (AR$810, nine to 10 hours), with daily
departures at 7am via Jujuy and Purmamarca. Companies, including international names, are
mostly slipshod operations. Mechanical prob-

1 Sights & Activities 233

lems are common, and don’t expect state-of- Several operators offer horseback riding.
the-art roadside assistance: you’re often better The tourist office will provide you with a list.
sorting minor problems yourself. Complaints Head west of town up the road (Adolfo) to-
are frequent. ward Finca Los Los for excellent perspectives
over the subtropical greenery of the zone.
A list of providers is available at http://
turismo.salta.gov.ar. We’ve found Alto Valle 4 Sleeping & Eating
(% 0387-15-683-6231; www.altovallerentacar.
com.ar; Zuviria 524) pleasingly well priced and
professional.

Always check with the provincial tourist of- There are several places to stay, including a
fice (p232) for current conditions. Punctures hostel behind (and run out of) the parrilla
are common, so check the kit before leaving restaurant on the square, and a eucalypt-­
Salta. shaded campground just beyond.

You can’t take rental cars into Bolivia, but it’s Bo Hotel BOUTIQUE HOTEL $$
possible to head into Chile by paying a bit extra (%0387-490-7068; www.bo-chicoana.com.ar; 25
and giving a few days’ notice. de Mayo 25; s/d US$103/127; aiWs) On the
left as you enter town, this smart place in
88 Getting Around substantial grassy grounds offers eight spa-
cious rooms decorated in an upbeat style
Grab a rechargeable tarjeta magnética bus card with modern fabrics and colors. Enjoy a
(AR$10) from certain kiosks. Fares cost AR$3.75. range of facilities, including free bikes, a spa
and helpful service.
Bus 8A from San Martín by Córdoba runs to
the airport, otherwise it’s AR$100 in a taxi from Sa lta & th e A n d e a n N o rth w e s t VGSaelttltaei ns&gCJaAulrjcouhuyanPqdruoí evsi nces
downtown.

Several local buses connect downtown with Finca Las Margaritas ESTANCIA $$$
the bus terminal; it’s not a long walk if you prefer. (%0387-15-592-9194; www.fincalasmargaritas.com.

ar; RP 49, Paraje Bella Vista; d/f US$161/181; Ws)
Eight kilometers from Chicoana, signposted
Valles Calchaquíes off the RN 33, this divine estancia has the
One of Argentina’s most seductive rural lot: elegant rooms themed on the different
zones is a winning combination of rugged crops produced by the farm, wide verandas,
landscapes, traditional weavers’ work- a classic rural Argentine ambience and good
shops, strikingly attractive adobe villages food. Can arrange excursions in the area.
and some top wines. Small but sophisti-
cated Cafayate, with its wineries and paved Bocha ARGENTINE $
highway, presents quite a contrast to more (Güemes s/n; mains AR$50; h10:30am-3pm) This
remote settlements such as Angastaco or very simple family-run comedor (basic cafete­
Molinos, while Cachi, accessible from Sal- ria) is the town’s favorite eating place. Big
ta via a spectacular road that crosses the round tables are parked across a concrete
Parque Nacional Los Cardones, is a peace- floor. Choose from three or four daily specials,
ful, popular base. Vernacular architecture all delicious. Soup is offered after the mains.

merits special attention: even modest adobe 88 Information
houses sport neoclassical columns or neo-­
Moorish arches.
Tourist Office (www.chicoanasalta.org; cnr
The indigenous Diaguita (Calchaquí) Córdoba & El Carmen; h 8am-8pm) On a
here put up some of the stiffest resistance corner of the square; very helpful.
to Spanish rule.
88 Getting There & Away

Chicoana Chicoana is connected to Salta via local buses
(interurban route 5, AR$9, 60 minutes), which
% 0387 / POP 5800 run east along Belgrano and west along San
Martín. You’ll need a Salta bus card.
Tucked away near the junction of the Cafa­
yate and Cachi roads, just 41km south of Parque Nacional Los Cardones
Salta, the likeable town of Chicoana is sur-
rounded by lush vegetation and makes a Flanking the winding RP 33 from Salta to
fine stop for lunch, for the night (a tempt- Cachi across the Cuesta del Obispo, Parque
ing final stop if you’re flying out of Salta the Nacional Los Cardones (www.parquesnacion
next morning) or for a spot of horseback ales.gob.ar; RP 33) takes its name from the
riding.

234 There’s a handful of rather unremarkable
cardón (candelabra cactus), the park’s most archaeological sites dotted around the val-
striking plant species. The most picturesque ley; these make destinations for picturesque
part is the Valle Encantado, accessed via a hikes or drives. There’s a winery in town,
4km track (driveable) at Km61. A few fur- and others within easy driving distance.
ther miradores (viewpoints) are signposted
along the road, and a couple of short in- Many locals rent horses for horseback
terpretative trails from along the straight riding; look for signs or ask in the tourist
stretch Recta de Tin-Tin. There’s a modern office.
park office (%03868-15-452879; loscardones@
apn.gov.ar; Payogasta; h8am-3pm Mon-Fri) in Valley Walking WALKING
Payogasta, 11km north of Cachi.
Take plenty of water and protect yourself Six kilometers from Cachi, Cachi Adentro is
from the sun. Buses between Salta and Cachi a tiny village where not a lot happens: ride
will stop for you, but verify times in advance. the see-saws in the demi-plaza or sip a soda
In the treeless Andean foothills and puna, from the store. It’s a particularly lovely walk
the cardón has long been an important from Cachi in summer, when streams and
source of timber for rafters, doors, windows cascades are alive with water.
and more. You see it often in the region’s tra- From here, you could return a longer way
ditional buildings. (20km total): bear left past the church and
then take a left down the road signposted
Las Trancas. This winds around the valley
and eventually crosses the river; 400m after-
Cachi wards, turn left (heading right leads 2km up
to the lovely Algarrobal campground). This
Sa lta & th e A n d e a n N o rth w e s t SVai glhtltaes&CJauljcuhyaPqruoí evsi nces % 03868 / POP 2600 / ELEV 2280M will lead you back to Cachi via the hamlet of
La Aguada. This section is spectacular in the
The biggest place by some distance here­ late afternoon.
abouts – you’ll hear locals refer to it as ‘the
city’ – enchanting Cachi is nevertheless little T Tours
more than a village surrounded by stunning
scenery. Overlooked by noble mountains, it oUrkupiña OUTDOORS
boasts fresh highland air, sunny days and
crisp nights. The cobblestones, adobe hous- (%03868-491317; www.urkupinatur.wix.com/cachi;
es, tranquil plaza and the opportunities on Zorrilla s/n) Excellent agency offering a wide
hand to explore the surrounds mean that range of activities. Trips to nearby archae-
it’s the sort of place that can easily eat extra ological sites cost US$25 to US$35; longer
days out of your carefully planned itinerary. jaunts along RN 40 in both directions

1 Sights make entertaining ways to reach Cafayate
(US$60) or San Antonio (US$76). Great hik-
ing tours include a descent through the Valle
Museo Arqueológico MUSEUM

(admission by donation; h9am-6pmTue-Sun) This Encantado and Cuesta del Obispo (US$89)
well-presented and professionally arranged or the red sandstone cave formations of Ac-
museum on the plaza gives an account of sibi (US$85).
the surrounding area’s cultural evolut­ion, Cycling, caving and quad-bike tours are
with good background information (in also available, as well as climbing.
Spanish) on archaeological methods. Don’t
miss the wall in the secondary patio, com- Chiwanku OUTDOORS

posed of stones with petroglyphs. (%0387-15-561-6854; www.chiwanku.com.ar; Suá­
rez s/n) Offers a range of activities, includ-
ing enjoyable downhill biking through the
Iglesia San José CHURCH

(Plaza 9 de Julio s/n; h9am-9pm) This church Parque Nacional Los Cardones (US$40);
(1796) has graceful arches and a barrel-v­ aulted hikes around the Acsibi red sandstone
ceiling of cardón wood. The confessional and caves (US$88) and Inca archaeological sites
other features are also cardón, while holy (US$43); wine routes; and excursions to the
water lives in a large tinaja (oil jar). remote west of the province.

2 Activities 4 Sleeping

A short walk from Cachi’s plaza brings you Nevado de Cachi GUESTHOUSE $
to a viewpoint and then the picturesque (%03868-491912; Ruiz de los Llanos s/n; s/d
hill­top cemetery; nearby is an unlikely US$20/35; W) Just off the plaza, this decent
airstrip. budget choice has rooms around a grapevine-­

draped patio. Beds are comfortable, and 235
bathrooms – there’s one cheaper room with also help yourself to vegetables from the or-
exterior bathroom – work well enough. Pric- ganic garden. Winery visit included.
es are slightly negotiable and vary by room;
upstairs ones are hotter but quieter. Overall, oEl Cortijo BOUTIQUE HOTEL $$
a bargain. Breakfast not included. (%03868-491034; www.elcortijohotel.com; Av ACA
s/n; s US$100, d standard/superior US$125/145;
aWs) This stylish small hotel – boutique
in the true sense of the word – offers recent-
Viracocha HOSTEL $
(%03868-15-491713; www.hostelcachi.com.ar;
Ruiz de los Llanos s/n; dm US$19, d with/without ly renovated rooms that include spacious
superiors decorated with finesse, and some
bathroom US$60/40; W) Central and relaxed, lovely master suites, particularly one with
this likable hostel has good dorms featuring its own private terrace with loungers. Some
sturdy bunk beds with plenty of headroom. have fabulous views of the sierra. There’s
Private rooms are colorful and comfort­ also a decent on-site restaurant and helpful
able; mattresses throughout are decent. staff. A pool is pending. Good value.
There’s no kitchen, but there’s courtyard
space and tea- and coffee-­making facilities. Hostería Villa Cardón GUESTHOUSE $$
(%03868-491701; www.facebook.com/hosteria
A romantically lit restaurant serving OK villacardon; Aranda s/n; d standard/superior
regional specialties and Andean cuisine is
attached. US$87/98; W) Friendly young owners bend
over backward here to make your stay a
pleasant one, and the four white, minimalist,
Hospedaje Don Arturo GUESTHOUSE $ comfortable rooms opening off a courtyard
(%03868-491087; www.hospedajedonarturo.blog
spot.com; Bustamante s/n; s/d US$20/30, with- on a quiet backstreet are perfect for relaxa-
out bathroom US$25/40; W) Very solid budget tion. Breakfast is a highlight, and the overall Sa lta & th e A n d e a n N o rth w e s t VSalletleaepsi&nCgJauljcuhyaPqruoí evsi nces
choice: rooms are cramped but spotless. The package is faultless. The teahouse out front
best features are the lounge area and back is great, too. Single rates available off-season.
deck overlooking the riverbed.
Sala de Payogasta BOUTIQUE HOTEL $$
(%03868-496754; www.saladepayogasta.com; RN
La Mamama HOSTEL $ 40, Km4509, Payogasta; s/d/ste US$59/79/109,
(%03868-491305; Suárez 590; dm/r without bath-
room US$9/18) A welcoming spot at the quiet ste with views US$129; W) This historic ranch
end of a central street, with kitchen use (a has rooms set around an achingly beautiful
tiny fee once only), simple rooms with saggy courtyard. They are rustic and in harmony
mattresses and a Cachi-casual feel. with the environment, though not luxurious.
Suites have hydromassage tubs and a cute
Camping Municipal CAMPGROUND, HOSTEL $ fireplace; the best has a fine outlook over
(%03868-491902; oficinadeturismo.cachi@gmail.
com; campsites per 2 people plus tent US$5, fields and mountains. The breakfast and
dining room shares the same vista. There’s
with power US$8, cabins US$32; s) On a hill a small spa complex, and a working winery
southwest of the plaza, this offers grassy,
tree-shaded pitches, plus hedge-bordered opposite, where lunches are served.
It’s 10km from Cachi on the Salta road,
sites with barbecues. The municipal pool is just outside of Payogasta.
here, plus a hostel – normally for groups but
may open for you – with dorms (US$2.50, La Merced del Alto HOTEL $$$
(%0387-490020; www.lamerceddelalto.com; s/d
including sheets US$4) and a couple of US$190/220; iWs) Built of traditional
cabins.
whitewashed adobe, with ceramic floors
oMiraluna and cane ceilings, this hotel across the river
CABAÑAS $$
(%0387-432-0888; www.miraluna.com.ar; La
Aguada; 2-person apt US$135, 4-person US$185- (2.5km) is designed to resemble an historic
monastery. It offers excellent facilities and
195; Wsc) S Seven kilometers from town great peace, with cool, restrained rooms
in the hamlet of La Aguada, these beautiful- looking over either the hills beyond (slight-
ly romantic, rustic cabins come in three sizes ly dearer) or the interior patio. Public areas
and have a spectacular, fabulously peaceful include an inviting lounge, good restaurant
setting in a working vineyard surrounded and rustic spa (extra charge).
by breathtaking mountain and valley views. Service is excellent. Substantially cheaper
Breakfast features tasty home-baked bread, for Argentines.
and other light meals are available. You can

236 For Cafayate, bus to Angastaco, and connect
there. At the time of research, this was possible
5 Eating Mondays, Fridays and Sundays. A tour from
Cachi is also an option.
Local eateries in the streets near the plaza
do no-frills traditional plates.

Ashpamanta VEGETARIAN $ Seclantás
(Bustamante s/n; dishes AR$60-105; hnoon-3pm
& 7-10pm; v) Offering reliably tasty vegetari- % 03868 / POP 300 / ELEV 2100M
an cuisine, this has a snug candlelit interior
and simple seating around a pretty patio. Charmingly peaceful Seclantás is the
The menu covers pasta, salads and a couple spiritual home of the Salta poncho. There
of more elaborate mains – quinoa risotto, are many weavers’ workshops in town and
veggie lasagna – prepared in an open kitch- along the eastern branch of the road to
en behind the bar. Cachi (dubbed the ‘Ruta de los Artesanos’).
Drop by these homes and browse the wares.
Oliver PIZZA $
(Ruíz de los Llanos 160; mains AR$50-105; Places to stay cluster around the lovely
h7am-midnight; Wv) This homey, multilev- tree-shaded plaza. El Capricho (%03868-
el, wooden-tabled restaurant on the plaza is 498064; www.elcaprichosalta.com.ar; Cornejo s/n;
a reliable choice for tasty pizza, bruschetta d US$42, tw without bathroom US$26) has rustic
and a couple of creative meaty mains. The rooms set around a pretty garden courtyard.
setting is a fine place for a sundowner.
The nearby campground has cabins and
Sa lta & th e A n d e a n N o rth w e s t EVSatltli naegs&CJauljcuhyaPqruoí evsi nces El Molle de Maiz Pérez NORTHWEST ARGENTINE $ a public pool.
(Suárez s/n; mains US$50-85; hnoon-3pm &
7-11pm; v) This little one-man show has an There’s a daily 7am bus from Cachi to
attractive interior, with cardón tables on up- Seclantás; it continues to Molinos and An-
turned logs, including a couple outdoors on gastaco four days a week.
the pretty street. There are a few quirks –
just go with the flow – but the food – roast Molinos
chicken, locro (a spicy stew of maize, beans,
beef, pork and sausage), pizzas and great % 03868 / POP 900 / ELEV 2020M
milanesas (breaded cutlets) – is delicious.
Owner-chef Carlos is kindly and keen to If you think the nearby town of Cachi is laid-
chat. Evening opening is unreliable. back, wait until you see Molinos, a lovely
backwater with a collection of striking colo-
88 Information nial buildings and beautiful adobe houses;
a stroll through the streets will reveal some
Tourist Office (% 03868-491902; oficinade real gems. Molinos takes its name from the
[email protected]; Güemes s/n; still-operational flour mill on the Río Calch-
h 9am-9pm) On the plaza. aquí; its picturesque appeal is augmented
by shady streets and good accommodations.
There’s a plaza-side ATM.

1 Sights

88 Getting There & Away Centro de Interpretación

Two to three daily buses run between Salta Molinos MUSEUM, WORKSHOP
(AR$120, four hours) and Cachi: a spectacular
ride. (%0387-15-459-2666; casaindaleciogomez@yahoo.
com.ar; Cornejo s/n; donation AR$15; h8am-
From Cachi, Seclantás is serviced daily at 1:30pm & 2-7:30pm) S This restored histor-
7am (AR$28), with the service continuing four ic house has a good English and Spanish
times weekly to Molinos (AR$40) and Angastaco display on the region’s culture and his­tory,
(AR$95). and tourist information. It’s also a space for
artisans – especially weavers – to work and
Buses run north as far as La Poma, the end sell their crafts, one of a number of inspiring
of the line. The road beyond, to San Antonio de sustainable projects around the area.
los Cobres, is an arduous, spectacular ascent
crisscrossing a river via lonely goat farms to a Iglesia San Pedro Nolasco CHURCH
4895m pass. It’s only passable in a non-4WD at
certain times (normally September to Decem- (h8am-8pm) The town’s lovely church in the
ber); phone the police (% 0387-490-9051) for Cuzco style dates from the 17th and 18th
advice. Otherwise, approach San Antonio the centuries, and features twin bell towers and
long way round. a cactus-wood ceiling. The Stations of the
Cross are tapestries by local artisans.

237

COLOMÉ BODEGA

Fine wines are produced at this ecological bodega (%03868-494200; www.bodega
colome.com; standard/old-vines tastings AR$50/300; h10am-6pm), which is set (as they say
hereabouts) ‘where the devil lost his poncho,’ 18km down a spectacular gravel road west
from Molinos. The vineyards enjoy a stunning natural setting, surrounded by hills and
mountains that seem to change color hourly. Forward-thinking on several fronts is also
in evidence: the complex is electrically self-sufficient, has funded substantial infrastruc-
tural improvements in the local community and boasts a stunning museum (museo@
colomeargentina.com; Colomé; hvisits 3pm & 5pm Tue-Sun) F designed by artist James
Turrell, with a permanent exhibition of nine of his works. These are utterly memorable
installations involving light and the strange frontiers of our own perception; it’s a remark-
able place.

Both bodega and museum visits should be booked ahead by phone or email, though it
can be fine to simply turn up. As well as tastings, the bodega serves delicious salads and
sandwiches (AR$90 to AR$100) and a meat option.

Some 9km beyond Colomé, Bodega El Humanao is also worth a visit for its beautifully
balanced cabernet-malbec blend, among others wines.

Criadero Coquera & been picturesquely restored: sober, hand-
some rooms with inviting beds, antique fur-
Casa Entre Ríos FARM niture, cane ceilings and great bathrooms, Sa lta & th e A n d e a n N o rth w e s t SValletleaepsi&nCgJau&ljcuEhayatPqi nruogí evsi nces
set around lovely patio spaces. It’s on the
(h8am-12:30pm & 3:30-7pm Mon-Sat) SF edge of the village and utterly peaceful.
A kilometer west of Molinos, this is where
the government’s agricultural research arm There’s an overpriced but reasonable on-
raises vicuñas. You can take a tour and feed site restaurant (open from noon to 3pm and
these beautiful camelid creatures; if there’s 7:30pm to 10:30pm).
nobody there, they don’t really mind you
just heading on up the side to see the ani- 88 Getting There & Away
mals. Here also is the Casa de Entre Ríos,
where there’s a fine artisans’ market selling There’s a bus to Molinos from Salta (AR$145, six
spectacular ponchos and wall hangings wo- hours) via Cachi (AR$40, two hours) on Monday,
ven from sheep, llama and vicuña wool. Wednesday, Friday and Sunday. It continues to
Angastaco (AR$40, two hours). Return services
4 Sleeping & Eating run on Monday, Tuesday, Thursday and Satur-
day. Shared remises (taxis) run thrice daily to
A couple of down-home places do decent, Salta (AR$200) via Cachi.
cheap meals.
Local remise operators such as recommended
Los Cardones de Molinos GUESTHOUSE $ Sergio Rueda (% 0387-15-447-8446) run to
(%0387-15-408-1724; cardonesmolinos@hotmail. Angastaco (around AR$500) on demand and
com; cnr Sarmiento & San Martín; s/d US$30/60, can also take you to Colomé (AR$300 including
without bathroom US$20/40; W) This is an ex- waiting time) and other wineries.
cellent sleeping choice, with comfortable
rooms featuring cactus furniture. You’re Angastaco
treated as one of the family and can use
the kitchen; breakfast is included, there’s %03868 / POP 900 / ELEV 1955M
a washing machine, and the exceptionally
welcoming and accommodating owner is a Tiny Angastaco sits among some of the
great source of local advice. most dramatically tortuous rockscapes of
the valley route. Forty kilometers south of
oHacienda de Molinos HOTEL $$ Molinos and 54km north of San Carlos, it’s
(%03868-494094; www.haciendademolinos.com. an oasis with vineyards, fields of anise and
ar; Cornejo s/n; r standard/superior US$125/151; cumin, and the ruins of an ancient pucará
iWs) Across from the church, this glori- (walled city).
ously colonial adobe hacienda is also known
as Casa de Isasmendi, after Salta’s last colo- Angastaco has an ATM and gas station
(with internet access).

nial governor, who lived and died here. It’s

238 San Carlos

1 Sights % 03868 / POP 1900 / ELEV 1624M

Museo Arqueológico MUSEUM A sizable village, San Carlos lies 22km north
of Cafayate and is connected to the town by
(h7am-1pm Mon-Fri Oct-Apr, 7:30am-1:30pm May- a paved road – a pleasant shock if you’re ar-
Sep) F This little archaeological museum riving from the north. There’s a special place
is in the smart municipal building behind to stay here in La Casa de los Vientos
the church. If it’s shut, ask in the offices and (%03868-495075; www.casadelosvientos.com.ar;
someone may open it up for you. Barrio Los Vientos; d/q US$50/70; iWsc) S,
signposted off the main road at the Cachi
4 Sleeping & Eating end of town. Built in the traditional man-
ner of adobe, with terracotta tiles and cane
Hospedaje El Cardón GUESTHOUSE $ ceilings, it incorporates some ingenious en-
(%03868-15-459-0021; Martínez s/n; r per per- vironmental innovations. The well-­traveled
son with/without bathroom US$12/10) A decent owner is a potter, and the rooms (all dif-
budget choice run by a staunch older lady. ferent) are decorated with rustic flair and
Rooms are basic but a bargain. It’s 50m to beauty. There’s a heated indoor pool and a
your right if you’re standing facing the vil- very genuine welcome.
lage church.
One to four daily buses run from Cafayate
oFinca El Carmen ESTANCIA $$ (AR$17, 45 minutes).
(%0387-15-412-5900; www.vallesdelcarmen.com.
ar; RN 40, Km4420; s/d US$66/104; s) Seven
kilometers north of the Angastaco turnoff,
this is an intriguing place to stay. It’s set on a
Sa lta & th e A n d e a n N o rth w e s t SCiaglfhtataysa&teJ u j u y P r o v i nces fabulously atmospheric historic ranch whose
adobe buildings include an 18th-century Jes- Cafayate
uit church, and is run by a friendly family of-
fering excellent hospitality. The six rooms are % 03868 / POP 13,300 / ELEV 1683M
all different, and there are cabañas (cabins)
sleeping five. Just passing by? Drop in: visit Argentina’s second center for quality wine
the church, eat or browse the handicrafts. production, Cafayate is a popular tourist
destination but still has a tranquil small-
Rincón Florido NORTHWEST ARGENTINE $ town feel. It’s spectacularly scenic, with the
(dishes AR$35-45; h11:30am-3pm) A curious green of the vines backed by soaring moun-
and heartwarming lunch stop just beyond tains beyond, and is one of northwest Ar-
the municipal building. Three courtyard ta- gentina’s most seductive destinations. It’s
bles in a family home are vine-shaded and easily reached from Salta via the tortured
watched over by a talking parrot and myriad rockscapes of the Quebrada de Cafayate;
curious objects, from farm implements to it’s also a major stop on RN 40 and the
armadillo shells. There’s no menu. Food is Valles Calchaquíes route. With a selection
simple and good, with delicious empanadas, of excellent accommodations for every
vegetables from the garden and their own budget, and several wineries to visit in and
sweetish red wine. around town, it invites an extended stay.
Also, check out the excellent artesanías
88 Getting There & Away (handicrafts).

Buses head south to San Carlos and Cafayate at Cafayate is famous for its torrontés, a
5:35am Monday to Saturday and 5pm Monday, grape producing aromatic dry and sweet
Friday and Sunday (AR$60, two hours). white wines, but bodegas hereabouts also
produce fine reds from cabernet sauvignon,
Buses arrive here from Salta (AR$187, eight malbec and tannat.
hours) via Cachi, Seclantás and Molinos four
days a week (Monday, Wednesday, Friday and 1 Sights & Activities
Sunday; return journeys the next morning). On
Monday, Friday and Sunday, you can connect to Museo de la Vid y El Vino MUSEUM
the Cafayate service.
(www.museodelavidyelvino.gov.ar; Av General
Otherwise, for Molinos, 40km north, trans- Güe­mes; foreigners/Argentines AR$30/10;
ports (ask around) run the route for AR$450 to h9am-­7pm Tue-Sun) This impressive mu­
AR$500 total. They’ll often meet the Cafayate seum gives a good introduction to the
bus, where you can share the fare with other pas- area’s wine industry. The atmospheric first
sengers. Otherwise, it’s a hitchhike; best done section, which deals with the viticultural
from the main road (there’s shade and a cafe). side – the life of the vines – through a series
of poems and images, is particularly appeal-

239

Cafayate e# 0 200 m
A 0 0.1 miles
BC D

›# (200m);
Bodega El Esteco (800m);
Patios de Cafayate (800m);
Quebrada de Cafayate (12km);

San Carlos (22km) ¦!40
1 Sebastián Arias Brachieri Río Chusca 1
AlvaradoCatamarca
Buenos Aires ê# 2
Mitre 20 #ú ò# Córdoba

Av General Güemes N D
Salta
Jujuy
D 13
Parrilla
Restaurants Rivaÿ#davia 14 ÿ# Mamaní 2
2 (200m) 20 de Febrero

San Martín ÿ# 8 16

#ú

Iglesia Catedral #ú 19 ÿ# Quintana de Niño
Nuestra Señora
7
del Rosario
Ü#
9 de Julio Plaza
Calchaquí5 # San Martín
3 Toscano ÿ# 6 Nuestra Señora del Rosario11 ÿ#þ# 2315 9 3
Av General Güemes S
Chavarría#û 21 18 #úÿ# ÿ#
Belgrano
20PdaesJajuenio1
Sa lta & th e A n d e a n N o rth w e s t SCiaglfhtataysa&t&eJ uAjcutyi vPi trioevsi ncesê#
3 #ú 17
Colón 10 ÿ# D
â# #þ 22

Hurtado

4 4 Peñalva ÿ# 12 4
A C D
â#
ï#
Camping Sindicato
Luz y Fuerza (300m)

B

Cafayate 13 Rusty-K Hostal.........................................B2
14 Vieja Posada.............................................C2
æ Sights 15 Villa Vicuña ...............................................C3
1 Bodega Nanni .......................................... C3 ú Eating
2 El Porvenir................................................. C1 16 Casa de las Empanadas .........................B2
3 Museo Arqueológico .............................. B3 17 Casa de las Empanadas II ......................B3
4 Museo de la Vid y El Vino ....................... C4 18 El Rancho..................................................C3
19 El Terruño .................................................C3
Ø Activities, Courses & Tours 20 Heladería Miranda ...................................C2
5 Majo Viajes............................................... B3 û Drinking & Nightlife
21 Chato's Wine Bar .....................................B3
ÿ Sleeping þ Shopping
6 Casa Árbol ............................................... B3 22 Jorge Barraco ..........................................B4
7 El Hospedaje............................................ C3 23 Mercado Artesanal..................................C3
8 Hostal del Valle........................................ B2
9 Hotel Munay ............................................ C3
10 Killa ........................................................... B4
11 Lo de Peñalba .......................................... B3
12 Portal del Santo ...................................... C4

ing. The second part covers the winem­ aking Museo Arqueológico MUSEUM
side, and there’s a cafe where you can try
and buy. English translations are good (cnr Colón & Calchaquí; admission by donation;
throughout. h10:30am-9pm Mon-Fri, to 6pm Sat) This
private museum’s collection was left by

240 friendly winery has a fabulous position at
enthusiastic archaeologist Rodolfo Bravo the foot of the jagged hills. It also does tasty
and merits a visit. Sourced mostly from deli plates. Ring ahead if you want to eat.
grave sites within a 30km radius from Ca- Grape-picking day in March is lots of fun,
fayate, the excellent array of ceramics, from with volunteers welcomed.
the black and gray wares of the Candelaria
and Aguada cultures to late Diaguita and Río Colorado WALKING, SWIMMING
Inca pottery, are well displayed across two
rooms. While there’s not much explanation, A picturesque walk 6km southwest from the
the material speaks for itself. Closes an hour center leads you to Río Colorado. From here,
for lunch in summer. follow the river upstream (the Diaguita com-
munity encourages taking a guide, around
AR$200 per group) for about an hour to get
Bodega Nanni WINERY

(%03868-421527; www.bodegananni.com; Chavar- to a 10m waterfall, where you can swim. A
ría 151; tours free, tastings AR$30; h10:30am-1pm second waterfall and more cascades lie fur-
& 2:30-6:30pm Mon-Sat, 11am-1pm & 2:30-6pm ther up. Look out for rock paintings on the
Sun) The half-hourly tour and tastings of four way. There’s a car park at the trailhead, as
young wines are short and bright here at well as a campsite and a drinks and snacks
this small, central winery with a lovely grass stand. A visit here can be combined with Bo-
patio. Wines are organic, uncomplicated and dega de las Nubes (p240).
drinkable. There’s a good on-site restaurant. Warning: if the river is high after rains
in January and February, the route to the
El Porvenir WINERY waterf­all becomes strenuous and dangerous.

(%03868-422007; www.elporvenirdecafayate.com; Sudden torrents can come down quickly
Córdoba 32; tours free, tastings from AR$60;
Sa lta & th e A n d e a n N o rth w e s t CTSoalfutaraysa&teJ u j u y P r o v i nces h9am-12:30pm & 3-6pm Wed-Sat) This well-run from the mountains at any time of year, so
always keep an eye upstream while bathing.
bodega focuses on quality wine production.
The tour is free, but generous tastings cost T Tours
from AR$60, depending on which wines you
want to try. Reserve by phone. A standard minibus tour of the Quebrada
de Cafayate leaves in the afternoon, when
Bodega El Esteco WINERY colors are more vivid, and costs US$20.
Three- to four-hour treks in the Quebrada
(%03868-421283; www.elesteco.com.ar; tours and Río Colorado are also popular. Day-
AR$70; htours 10am, 11am, noon, 3:30pm, 4:30pm long trips to Cachi (US$90) are tiring, while
& 5:30pm Mon-Fri, 10am, 11am & noon Sat & Sun) Quilmes (US$25) is cheaper in a taxi if you’re
This corporate affair on the northern edge two or more. Horseback rides start at two
of town is a smart and attractive winery pro- hours (US$70). Places around the plaza hire
ducing some of the region’s best wines. out bikes (US$20 for a full day) but thorns
mean that the likelihood of punctures is sky-
Piattelli WINERY high, so it’s not such a great option.

(%03868-15-418214; www.piattelli.com.ar; RP 2; Tour operators have offices on the plaza.
standard tours AR$80, with premium wines AR$150; Most are mediocre but the Quebrada scen-
h9:30am-6pm, tours 10am, 11am, noon, 1pm, 3pm ery speaks for itself. Majo Viajes (%03868-
& 4pm) Built as if money and space were 422038; [email protected]; Nuestra Señora
no object, this elegant US-owned, slight- del Rosario 77) is straight-talking and reliable.
ly over-the-top winery is 3km from town.
Tours show you three levels of relatively
small-scale but state-of-the-art winemaking z Festivals & Events
equipment and culminate in a long tasting
of seven wines. There’s an on-site restaurant The Serenata a Cafayate (www.serenata.
that does delicious lunches. Despite sched- todowebsalta.com.ar; admission Thu/weekend
uled English-speaking tours, most tours are AR$150/300; hFeb) is a very worthwhile
bilingual if needed. three-day folklórico festival. Fiesta de la
Virgen del Rosario (October 4) is the town
Bodega de las Nubes WINERY fiesta and gets lively.

(%03868-422129; www.bodegamounier.com.ar; 4 Sleeping
tours incl tasting AR$15; h9:30am-5pm Mon-Fri, to
1:30pm Sat) Five kilometers west of Cafayate Cafayate has numerous places to stay, with
along the road to Río Colorado (it’s sign- boutique hotels and simple hospedajes
posted ‘Mounier’), this small, organic and (family homes) on every street.

241

oRusty-K Hostal HOSTEL $ its sandy pitches don’t offer much shade. Fa-
(%03868-422031; [email protected]; Ri- cilities are good, though, and a lively social
vadavia 281; dm US$18, d with/without bathroom atmosphere is guaranteed. It packs out in
US$50/45; iW) The peace of the vine-filled February, when prices double.

patio garden here is a real highlight, as is oPortal del Santo HOTEL $$
the spotlessness of the rooms and dorms,
and the friendliness. Cute doubles and (%03868-422400; www.portaldelsanto.com.ar;
Chavarría 250; d downstairs/upstairs US$135/154;
an excellent attitude make this Cafayate’s aiWs) Cool white elegance is the stock-
budget gem. These prices are for high sum-
mer and drop substantially out of season. in-trade of this hospitable family-run hotel
resembling a colonial palace with arched
Book ahead. arcades. Lower rooms open onto both the

Casa Árbol GUESTHOUSE, HOSTEL $ front porch and the inviting garden-p­ool-
(%03868-422238; www.facebook.com/casaarbol Jacuzzi area; top-floor chambers have
cafayate; Calchaquí 84; dm/d US$12/35; W) S mountain views and even more space. All
There’s something really pleasant about have fridge and microwave; suites sleep
this casual spot which has airy, beautiful four. The owners are helpful and put on a
decor and a genuine welcome. Pretty, spot- great homemade breakfast.
less rooms and a four-bed dorm share two
bathrooms. There’s lounging room to spare Vieja Posada HOTEL $$
(%03868-422251; www.viejaposada.com.ar; Ma­
in the patio, breakfast area and garden. maní 87; s/d US$50/75; Ws) This hotel has

El Hospedaje GUESTHOUSE $ real character in its patio and garden spaces.
(%03868-421680; [email protected]; Salta A reformed historic building, it offers com-
13; d US$70; aWs) On a corner just a block pact rooms and an historic ambience of Sa lta & th e A n d e a n N o rth w e s t CS lalefteaapyai&ntgeJ u j u y P r o v i nces
from the plaza, this easygoing guesthouse adobe, antiques and solid wooden benches,
dotted with antique cash registers is none- perfect for contemplation. There’s secure
theless peaceful. Rooms vary in layout but parking and a tiny plunge pool. Breakfast
are mostly on the compact side. They sur- features homemade chayote jam.
round a pretty patio fragrant with the smell
of lavender. Hotel Munay HOTEL $$
(%03868-421189; www.munayhotel.com.ar; Cha-
varría 64; s/d US$55/85; aWs) The elegant
Lo de Peñalba HOSTEL, GUESTHOUSE $ simplicity and clean uncluttered lines of this
(% 03868-422213; www.lodepenalba.com.ar;
Nuestra Señora del Rosario 79; dm/s/d/tr hotel seem to reflect the surrounding sierra.
US$18/45/60/75; W) Right on the plaza, this Rooms are unadorned, attractive and spot-
is a welcoming spot behind a tour agency. less, with good bathrooms. Excellent value,
It offers simple but comfortable en suite helpful service and a hospitable atmosphere
rooms around a pretty patio, and dorm make this a sound choice.
beds with key lockers and plenty of room to
move. There’s a kitchen too, and a good vibe. oKilla BOUTIQUE HOTEL $$$
(%0387-422254; www.killacafayate.com.ar; Colón
47; d/junior ste/ste US$150/190/240; aWs)
Hostal del Valle GUESTHOUSE $
(%03868-421039; www.welcomeargentina.com/
hostaldelvalle; San Martín 243; s/d US$54/60; Classy, comfortable and well run, this hand-
some and recommendable hotel has colonial
aW) This enticing place offers myriad pot style given warmth by its creative use of nat-
plants, and pretty rooms with large, invit- ural wood, stone and local artesanía. The
ing beds and excellent bathrooms. Smaller,
darker rooms downstairs are a little cheap- gorgeous rooms – not a TV in sight – have
color and great bathrooms, and the upstairs
er and still worthwhile. The staff is friendly suites – worth the extra investment – have
and a simple breakfast is served in a rooftop
conservatory with privileged views. cracking views and private balcony spaces.
There’s a pretty pool area and impeccable
hospitality.
Camping Sindicato Luz y
oVilla Vicuña
Fuerza CAMPGROUND $ BOUTIQUE HOTEL $$$
(%03868-421568; www.facebook.com/campinglyf
cafayate; Av General Güemes S s/n; campsites per (%03868-422145; www.villavicuna.com.ar; Bel­
grano 76; d standard/superior US$154/174;
person/tent/car US$2/2.50/1.50; Ws) Very aiW) Peacefully set around twin patios,
handy for town, this campsite gets busy and
Villa Vicuña offers an intimate retreat, with

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd JUAN MABROMATA/AFP/GETTY IMAGES ©
KRZYSZTOF DYDYNSKI/GETTY IMAGES ©

242

243MATTHEW WILLIAMS-ELLIS/GETTY IMAGES ©

1. Bodega El Esteco (p240) JUAN MABROMATA/AFP/GETTY IMAGES ©
Some of Cafayate’s best wines
are produced in this picturesque
setting.
2. Museo de Arqueología de
Alta Montaña (p219)
These artefacts were found
alongside mummified Inca children
at the peak of Llullaillaco.
3. Tren a las Nubes (p223)
The ‘Train to the Clouds’,
Argentina’s most famous rail trip,
crosses the stunning La Polvorilla
viaduct.
4. Parque Nacional
Talampaya (p283)
Rock formations abound in this
desert national park.

244 Parrilla Restaurants PARRILLA $
beautiful, spotless rooms with French doors, (Rivadavia, btwn San Lorenzo & 12 de Octubre;
big beds and reproduction antique furni- steaks AR$60-110; h7pm-midnight Mon-Sat, 11am-
ture. Rooms are in two styles: one more co- 3pm Sun) A long way from the slightly man-
lonial in feel, with dark wood and religious nered tourist scene around the plaza, this
icons. There are numerous helpful little string of no-frills grillhouses makes a worth-
details; service and breakfast are good; and while dinner escape. The Gallito is locally re-
you can relax in the courtyard, contemplat- nowned, but adjacent Parrilla Santos – just a
ing the offbeat mural sculpture. concrete floor, a barbecue and a corrugated-­

Patios de Cafayate ESTANCIA $$$ metal roof – has equally tasty meat. Uncom-
(%03868-422229; www.patiosdecafayate.com; RN
40; r US$273-371, ste US$418-484; aiWs) A plicated and great value.

short walk north of town, this secluded place Heladería Miranda ICE CREAM $
(Av General Güemes N s/n; cones AR$25-40;
is a seductive getaway. Set in a beautiful cen- h1:30pm-midnight) A frequent dilemma in
tenarian estancia, it’s a classy, elegant spot
with helpful professional service. Rooms are Argentina is whether to go for a rich red
classically colonial, with noble dark-wood cabernet or a dry white torrontés, but it
furniture, local artesanía, and perspectives doesn’t usually occur in ice-cream parlors.
over either the surrounding vineyards or the It does here: the Miranda’s wine sorbets are
garden area, which includes a great swim- Cafayate’s pride and joy, but other fresh fruit
ming pool and Jacuzzi. Enter via El Esteco flavors, including tuna (cactus-fruit), are
winery. also delicious.

Sa lta & th e A n d e a n N o rth w e s t ECS atlftai nayga&teJ u j u y P r o v i nces Grace Cafayate RESORT $$$ oPiattelli ARGENTINE $$
(La Estancia de Cafayate; %03868-427000;
www.gracehotels.com; RN 40, Km4340; d/villa (%03868-15-405491; RP 2; mains AR$110-190;
h12:30-4pm; W) A lovely indoor-outdoor set-
US$280/500; aiWsc) This huge gat- ting overlooking picture-perfect vineyards
ed development covers 7km of golf course, at this upmarket winery 5km from Cafayate
vines, scrubland and residential lots. Rooms makes a fine lunch stop; the sophisticated
are spacious and well equipped, and the food doesn’t disappoint. A range of interna-
surrounding villas are great for family stays, tional influences spice up the menu, and at
with kitchens, barbecue areas and private weekends (when booking is advisable) they
patios. Bathrooms are particularly impres- fire up the outdoor grill with some of the
sive, with huge shower space and double finest parrilla offerings in this part of the
bathtubs. Golf carts and manicured lawns, nation.
though, give it all a retirement-village feel:
suburban banality surrounded by scenic El Terruño ARGENTINE $$
(%03868-422460; www.teruno.todowebsalta.com.
splendor. ar; Av General Güemes N 30; mains AR$110-200;
The turnoff is 1.5km south of central
Cafayate, from where it’s another 3.5km to hnoon-3:30pm & 7:30pm-midnight; W) Plaza-­
side seating and polite if scatty service
reception. presents, strangely, two menus here. One

5 Eating is less traditional, with dishes such as in-
ventive seafood-based salads, and well-pre-
There are many options around the plaza, pared mains, including plenty of fish dish-
most offering adequate local dishes backed es. Overpriced, but friendly and reliable
by live folklórica music at weekends. enough.

oCasa de las Empanadas EMPANADAS $ El Rancho NORTHWEST ARGENTINE $$
(Mitre 24; dozen empanadas AR$90; h11am-3pm
& 8pm-midnight Tue-Sun) Decorated with the (Toscano 4; mains AR$70-160; hnoon-3pm &
7:30pm-midnight or 1am; W) A cut above the
scrawls of contented customers, this no-frills string of hit-and-miss places around the
place has a wide selection of empanadas
that are all absolutely delicious. Local wine plaza, this has a short, simple menu of lo-
cal dishes, including locro, plus decent meat
in ceramic jugs, and humitas (stuffed corn and chicken plates. The house specialty is
dough, resembling Mexican tamales) and ta-
males can round out the meal. If it’s closed, rabbit. It appeals on winter nights, with a
crackling fire.
head to its other branch (Nuestra Señora del
Rosario 156; h11am-3pm & 7-11pm).

6 Drinking 245

oChato’s Wine Bar WINE BAR Quebrada de Cafayate

(Nuestra Señora del Rosario 132; h7-11pm) Run North of Cafayate, the Salta road heads
by a cordial English-speaker, the only prop- through barren, spectacular Quebrada de
er wine bar in Cafayate serves a long list of Cafayate, a wild landscape of richly colored
wines by the glass and is great for a tasting sandstone and unearthly rock formations.
session (five-wine flights from AR$100), a Carved out by the Río de las Conchas, the
drink in friendly surroundings or a chat. canyon’s twisted sedimentary strata exhib-
Munch on a picada (shared appetizer plate) it a stunning array of tones, from rich red
so it doesn’t go to your head. A move of lo- ocher to ethereal green. While you get a
cation to San Martín 223 was planned when visual feast from the road itself – it’s one
we visited. of the country’s more memorable drives
or rides – it’s worth taking time to explore
7 Shopping parts of the canyon. The best time to appre-
ciate the Quebrada is in the late afternoon;
There are numerous artesanía shops and low sun brings out the most vivid colors.
market complexes around the central plaza.
A short way north of Cafayate, Los
Mercado Artesanal HANDICRAFTS Médanos is an extensive dune field that
gives way to the canyon proper, where a
(Av General Güemes; h9am-10:30pm) S The series of distinctive landforms are named
Mercado Artesanal cooperative features and signposted from the road. Some, such
high-quality local work at more-than-fair as El Sapo (the Toad) are underwhelming,
prices. but around the Km46–47 mark, the adjacent
Garganta del Diablo (Devil’s Throat) and
Jorge Barraco GIFTS Anfiteatro (Amphitheater) are much more Sa lta & th e A n d e a n N o rth w e s t QSDarulientbkari&andgJau jdueyCParfoavyai ntcees
impressive. Gashes in the rock wall let you
(Colón 157; h8am-10pm) For fine silver, check enter and appreciate the tortured stone,
out the workshop of Jorge Barraco. whose clearly visible layers have been twist-
ed by tectonic upheavals into extraordinary
88 Information configurations.

Tourist Office (% 03868-422442; Av General These landmarks are heavily visited, and
Güemes s/n; h 9am-7pm Tue-Sun) Attached to you may be followed by locals hoping for
the wine museum. Offers an invaluable printout some pesos for a bit of ‘guiding.’ Artesanía
of winery opening times. sellers and musicians hover, too. Though
drinks are sometimes on sale, don’t rely on it.
88 Getting There & Away
88 Getting There & Away
The new bus terminal (RN40) is at the northern
entrance to town. There are several ways to see and explore the
Flechabus (www.flechabus.com.ar) runs five to canyon. Tours from Salta are brief; it’s better to
six daily services to Salta (AR$159, four hours) take a tour or taxi from closer Cafayate. Minibus
and one or two to Angastaco (AR$60, two tours stop at major sights; other longer tours
hours) via San Carlos (AR$17, one to four daily, add some hiking away from the road. Biking it
30 minutes). from Cafayate is possible, but regular punctures
El Aconquija (% 03868-421052; http://trans make this an unreliable option.
portesaconquija.com.ar) leaves two to four
times daily for Tucumán (AR$240 to AR$270, You could also combine buses with some walk-
five to 6½ hours) via Amaicha and Tafí del Valle ing and/or hitchhiking. Carry food and plenty of
(AR$140 to AR$170, 2½ to four hours); some go water in this hot, dry environment. A good place
via Santa María (AR$75, two hours). Counterin- to start exploration is the Garganta del Diablo;
tuitively, quicker buses are cheaper. several other attractions are within easy walking
El Indio (% 0387-431439) runs once daily to distance of there.
Salta (AR$160) and Santa María (AR$80).
San Antonio de los Cobres
88 Getting Around
% 0387 / POP 4300 / ELEV 3775M
Taxis (% 03868-422128) congregate opposite
the cathedral – call if there are none – and are This dusty mining town is on the puna 168km
useful for reaching bodegas and other destina- west of Salta, and sits more than 2600m
tions. To Quilmes with waiting time costs around above it. It’s suffered since the deterioration
AR$450; to San Carlos one way it’s AR$120.

246

of the region’s mining and associated rail- oQuinoa Real NORTHWEST ARGENTINE $$
way, but is an example of a typical highland (%0387-490-9270; Belgrano s/n; mains AR$60-
settlement, with adobe houses, near-de- 130; h9am-3:30pm & 7:30-11:30pm) On the
serted streets and a serious temperature refurbished central block, this is aimed at
drop after sundown. It’s worth stopping in tourists, with traditional fabrics on tables
to experience this facet of Andean life. You and a menu of local ingredients. Llama fea-
can head north from here to the Quebrada tures heavily, such as in tasty empanadas,
de Humahuaca via the Salinas Grandes and carpaccio and fillets, but roast lamb with a
Purmamarca, and, some of the year, south chili-and-garlic kick is also recommend­ able.
to Cachi. Vegetarians will be cheered by a range of
savory filled tarts and quinoa options.
1 Sights There’s also quinoa-flavored craft beer.

There’s little to see in town (though sunsets 88 Information
are spectacular!) but 16km to the west is the
impressive viaduct at La Polvorilla, the last
Sa lta & th e A n d e a n N o rth w e s t S iaglhti ntaas&s JGurjaunydPerso v i nces stop of the Tren a las Nubes (p223) rail Tourist Office (% 0387-15-578-7877; culturay
trip. You can climb up a zigzag path to the [email protected]; RN 51; h9am-9pm
top and walk across it. Remises in San An- Mon-Sat, to 3pm Sun) Just by the bridge in the
tonio charge about AR$200 for the return center of town, this complex includes a decent
journey. artisanal market and a cafe.

4 Sleeping & Eating 88 Getting There & Away

Simple restaurants dot Belgrano, and are Two to three daily buses run from Salta (AR$115,
good bets for empanadas, milanesas and 5½ hours) and Tren a las Nubes (p223) stops
other local staples. here. Precious little transportation crosses
the Paso de Sico to Chile; ask around town for
Hostería El Palenque GUESTHOUSE $ trucks. From San Antonio, a good ripio (gravel)
(%0387-490-9019; hostalelpalenque@hotmail. road runs 97km north, skirting the Salinas
Grandes to intersect with paved RP 52.

com; Belgrano s/n; r per person US$17) Welcom-
ing and tidy, this fine choice is a few blocks
from the center, past the church. It looks Salinas Grandes
closed from outside, but it’s not. Superclean
rooms are insulated and (comparatively) Bring sunglasses for this spectacular salt
warm; there’s hot water and sound family plain in a remote part of the puna, some
ownership. Two rooms share a bathroom; 3350m above sea level. A lake that dried up in
two others are en suite. Breakfast is extra. the Holocene, this is now a 525-sq-km crust
Wi-fi is planned. of salt up to half-a-meter thick. On a clear
day, the blinding contrast between bright
blue sky and the cracked and crusty expanse
El Portal de los Andes GUESTHOUSE $ of white is spellbinding. Over the year, wind
(%0387-490-9282; Las Vicuñitas s/n; s/d strips much of the salt away; it’s most spec-
US$27/40; W) This likeable little setup is in a tacular after summer rains replenish it.
pretty building on the Salta side of the river.
Rooms are spotless, with comfortable beds; The salinas are in Salta province, but
the interesting boss is welcoming; and the most easily reached by heading west along
restaurant does a nice line in local dishes. spectacular, paved RP 52 from Purma­
marca. About 5km west of the intersection
HOTEL $$ of RP 52 and the good ripio road that heads
Hotel de las Nubes
(%0387-490-9059; www.hoteldelasnubes.com; 97km to San Antonio de los Cobres, there’s a
RN 51; s/d US$69/86; W) The town’s best hotel salt-mining building; opposite, you can head
has simple decoration in its comfortable-­ out onto the salt pan to check out the rectan-
enough rooms, which are sparsely furnished gular basins from which the salt is periodic­
but boast double glazing and heating. Book ally dug out. Artisans sell stone carvings and
ahead. The restaurant (open noon to 2pm llamas made from salt. Limited drinks and
and 7pm to 9:30pm) serves a short menu snacks are available.
of local dishes; it’s overpriced (mains from The only way of reaching the salinas
AR$125 to AR$200) but tasty enough. The by public transportation is to jump off a
long-serving barman is good for a chat. Chile- or Susques-bound bus from Jujuy or
Purmamarca. Check timetables carefully be-

247

fore doing this; on some days it’s possible to COCA CHEWING
catch a bus back to Purmamarca a couple of
hours later, but on other days it’s not. This In the northwest, you’ll see signs out-
road has enough traffic to hitchhike. side shops advertising coca and bica.
The former refers to the leaves, mainly
Otherwise, grab a remise from Pur- grown in Peru and Bolivia, which are
mamarca, or take a tour from Purmamarca, traditionally chewed by Andean peoples.
Tilcara, Jujuy or Salta. From the latter, it’s a They have a mild stimulant effect and
long day, unless you opt to overnight. combat fatigue, altitude sickness and
hunger (and are also used to produce
The salinas are impressive, but the other­ cocaine). Bica refers to bicarbonate of
worldly salares of southwestern Bolivia are soda, an alkaline that, when chewed
even more so; if you’re heading that way along with the leaves, increases the
(or have already been), you might prioritize effect. Chewing coca and possessing
other attractions. small amounts for personal use are
legal, but only in the northwest. Taking
Jujuy them back down south or into Chile is
illegal, and there are regular searches.
% 0388 / POP 265,300 / ELEV 1201M
If you read Spanish, you’ll find copious in- Sa lta & th e A n d e a n N o rth w e s t JSuiagljhuttays& J u j u y P r o v i nces
Of the trinity of northwestern cities, (San formation here on these subjects.
Salvador de) Jujuy lacks Salta’s colonial so-
phistication or Tucuman’s urban vibe and is T Tours
often bypassed by travelers. Nevertheless, it
has a livable feel, enticing restaurants and Numerous Jujuy operators offer trips to the
is the most culturally indigenous of any of Quebrada de Humahuaca, Salinas Grandes,
Argentina’s cities. Parque Nacional Calilegua and other provin-
cial destinations. The Provincial Tourist Of-
The city was founded in 1593, after two fice (p249) can give you a full listing.
previous incarnations were razed by an-
gry indigenous groups who hadn’t given z Festivals & Events
planning permission.The province bore the
brunt of conflict during the independence Semana de Jujuy FIESTA
wars, with Spain launching repeated inva-
sions down the Quebrada de Humahuaca (hAug) Jujuy’s biggest event, the weeklong
from Bolivia; Jujuy was famously evacuated Semana de Jujuy, commemorates Belgrano’s
in what is known as the éxodo jujeño. evacuation of the city during the wars of
independence.
The city’s name is roughly pronounced
hoo-hooey; if it sounds like an arch exclama-
tion of surprise, you’re doing well.

1 Sights 4 Sleeping

oCulturarte GALLERY There are several central hostels, mostly ac-
ceptable but mediocre.
(www.facebook.com/culturarte.ccultural; cnr San
Martín & Sarmiento; h8am-11pm Mon-Sat) F
An attractive modern space, this showcases
exhibitions by well-established Argentine Munay Hotel HOTEL $
(%0388-422-8435; www.munayhotel.com.ar;
contemporary artists. There’s often work of Alvear 1230; s/d US$44/68; W) This good-value
excellent quality here, and it makes a fun
place to check out the Jujuy scene. The cafe budget hotel offers small but comfortable
and spotless rooms in a nice little package a
has a nice little balcony terrace overlooking couple of blocks away from the action. Ser-
the center of town.
vice is friendly, and limited parking is availa-
ble for an extra charge. Interior rooms suffer
Museo Temático de Maquetas from some ambient noise.

Tupac Amaru MUSEUM

(Alvear 1152; h8am-11pm) SF Set up by D-Gira Hostel HOSTEL $
and housed in the headquarters of an in-
digenous political organization, this unex- (%0388-15-408-0386; www.facebook.com/dgira.
hosteljujuy; JM Gorriti 427; dm US$10-11, d US$33;
pectedly charming museum tells the history, iW) Located in an unfashionable but rel-
traditions and mythology of indigenous Ar-
gentina in a series of entertaining dioramas. atively central zone of the city, this beats the
downtown hostels on several points. Number

248

Jujuy e# 0 400 m
0 0.2 miles
ABCD

Güemes ArgañarazGüemesMunicipalAv Urquiza 1
Canónigo GorritiAlvearTourist
1 Office
Sarmiento6 #ú#ï
Otero
Alvear ÿ# â# #ú 8 Lavalle7 Provincial
Necochea Tourist
Balcarce542 #ú Ü# Office
Lamadrid Iglesia
ÿ# Belgranoò# Plaza #ï
Av Pérez Catedral
Ramírez de Velasco Belgrano

Patricias Argen tinas
San Martín San Martín 1 â# Ca#sa ›# Buses to
Culturarte de Bus Terminal
Independencia
2 #ú 10 Gobierno 2
Libertad

Río Xibi Xibi
Av H Yrigoyen
MA Prado Newbery
Urdininea
dRelepLíúbblaincoa
DAv Dorrego3Av J de la Iglesia 9 JM Gorriti 3
A Zegada
Sa lta & th e A n d e a n N o rth w e s t ESJ uatlj uti nayg& J u j u y P r o v i nces#ú D ÿ#
Iguazú
Alem 3
L de la Torre
La Casa de
Jeremías (200m) C
B

Jujuy the heart of Jujuy, this highly impressive
family-run place is a real visual feast. The
æ Top Sights renovated 19th-century mansion is won-
1 Culturarte...............................................C2 derful, with original floor tiles, high ceilings
and wooden floors; there’s patio space ga-
æ Sights lore and a huge garden. The modern annex
2 Museo Temático de Maquetas behind doesn’t lose much by comparison,
Tupac Amaru...................................... A1 but go for an older room if you can.

ÿ Sleeping 5 Eating
3 D-Gira Hostel .........................................D3
4 Munay Hotel .......................................... A1 Jujuy’s lively Mercado del Sur is a genuine
5 Posada El Arribo ................................... A1 trading post where indigenous Argentines
swig mazamorra (cold maize soup) and
ú Eating peddle coca leaves. Simple eateries around
6 Krysys.....................................................B2 here serve hearty regional specialties; try
7 Madre Tierra .......................................... C1 chicharrón con mote (stir-fried pork with
8 Manos Jujeñas ...................................... B1 boiled maize) or spicy sopa de maní (peanut
9 Mercado del Sur....................................C3 soup).
10 Viracocha ...............................................B2

one is the genuine welcome, then you can Manos Jujeñas NORTHWEST ARGENTINE $
add the purple walls and seriously comfort- (Av Pérez 381; mains AR$60-110; h11am-3pm
able blond-timber bunks with their plump & 7-11pm Tue-Sun) S One of Jujuy’s best ad-
mattresses and decent bedding. Dorms all dresses for no-frills traditional slow-food
have en suite bathrooms and plenty of room. cooking, this fills up with a contented buzz
Ongoing improvements and a can-do atti- on weekend evenings. There are several
tude make this a worthwhile stop. classic northeastern dishes to choose from,
but it’s the picante – marinated chicken or
oPosada El Arribo tongue (or both) with onion, tomato, rice
BOUTIQUE HOTEL $$ and Andean potatoes – that’s the pride of
(%0388-422-2539; www.elarribo.com; Belgrano
1263; s/d US$70/109; aiWs) An oasis in the house. Take-out also available.